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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, by Maria Graham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
+will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
+using this eBook.
+
+Title: Journal of a Voyage to Brazil
+       And Residence There During Part of the Years 1821, 1822, 1823
+
+Author: Maria Graham
+
+Release Date: April 22, 2007 [eBook #21201]
+[Most recently updated: June 22, 2021]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+Produced by: Chuck Greif, Janet Blenkinship and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL ***
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Transcriber's note: The spelling of the original has been retained.
+This includes a few apparent mis-spellings and varied spellings of the
+same words and names.]
+
+
+
+JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL,
+
+AND
+
+RESIDENCE THERE, DURING PART OF THE YEARS 1821, 1822, 1823.
+
+BY MARIA GRAHAM.
+
+ONCE MORE UPON THE WATERS, YET ONCE MORE,
+AND THE WAVES BOUND BENEATH ME AS A STEED
+THAT KNOWS HIS RIDER.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+LONDON:
+
+PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,
+
+PATERNOSTER-ROW;
+
+AND J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
+
+1824.
+
+LONDON:
+
+Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Although the Journal of a voyage to Brazil, and of a residence of many
+months in that country, was not written without a view to publication at
+some time; yet many unforeseen circumstances forced the writer to pause
+before she committed it to press, and to cancel many pages recording
+both public and private occurrences.
+
+Perhaps there is even yet too much of a personal nature, but what is
+said is at least honest; and if the writer should suffer personally by
+candour, the suffering will be cheerfully borne.
+
+As to public events, all that can be new in the Journal is the bringing
+together facts which have reached Europe one by one, and recording the
+impression produced on the spot by those occurrences which might be
+viewed in a very different light elsewhere. Some have, no doubt, been
+distorted by the interested channels through which they have reached the
+public; some by the ignorance of the reporters; and most by the party
+spirit which has viewed either with enthusiasm or malignity the
+acquisition of freedom in any quarter of the globe.
+
+The writer does not pretend to perfect impartiality, for in some cases
+impartiality is no virtue; but knowing that no human good can be
+attained without a mixture of evil, she trusts that a fair picture of
+both has been given, although it has cost some pain in the writing.
+
+Of the natives of the country, or of those engaged in its service, what
+is said, whether of those still employed or of those no longer in the
+empire, was written under the impression of the moment; and the writer's
+confidence in the good sense and justice of the Brazilian government and
+people is such, that she leaves the passages as they stood at the moment
+of writing.
+
+The events of the last three years in Brazil have been so important,
+that it was thought best not to interrupt the account of them, by
+continuing what may be called the writer's personal narrative after she
+reached Chile; therefore the two visits to Brazil are printed together,
+along with an Introduction containing a sketch of the history of the
+country previous to the first visit, and a notice of the public events
+of the year of her absence, to connect it with the second.
+
+The Journal of a visit to Chile will form the subject of a separate
+volume.
+
+It was thought essential that the narratives concerning Spanish and
+Portuguese America should be kept quite separate; the countries
+themselves being as different in climate and productions, as the
+inhabitants are in manners, society, institutions, and government.
+
+Nothing can be more interesting than the actual situation of the whole
+of South America. While Europe was engaged in the great revolutionary
+war, that country was silently advancing towards the point at which
+longer subjection to a foreign dominion became impossible.
+Circumstances, not laws, had opened the ports of the South Atlantic and
+the Pacific. Individuals, not nations, had lent their aid to the
+patriots of the New World: and more warlike instruments and ammunition
+had gone silently from the warehouses of the merchant to arm the natives
+against their foreign tyrants, than had ever issued from the arsenals of
+the greatest nations. But, for a period, Brazil did not openly join in
+the struggle for independence. The Royal Family of Portugal took refuge
+there; and converted it, by that step, from a colony into the seat of
+government, from a state of slavery to one of sovereignty. Therefore,
+while the court continued to reside at Rio de Janeiro, the Brazilians
+had no inducement to break with the mother country. But it was very
+different when the King returned to Lisbon, and the Cortes, forgetting
+the change of men's minds produced by circumstances, endeavoured to
+force Brazil back to the abject state from which she had arisen. Then
+arose the struggle, some part of which it was the fortune of the writer
+to witness; and concerning which she was able to collect some facts
+which may serve as materials for future history. She trusts that if the
+_whole truth_ is not to be found in her pages, that there will be
+_nothing but the truth_.
+
+It is with no small anxiety that the Journal is sent into the world, in
+the hope that it may tend to excite interest for the country by making
+it better known. Perhaps the writer has over-rated her powers, in
+attempting to record the progress of so important an event as the
+emancipation of such an empire from the thraldrom of the mother country.
+The lighter part of her task, namely, the description of the country,
+its inhabitants, and the manners of the different classes, both of
+natives and foreigners, should have been fuller; but that want of
+health, and sometimes want of spirits, prevented her from making use of
+all the means that might have been within her reach of acquiring
+knowledge. She trusts, however, that there is no misrepresentation of
+importance; and that the Journal, the writing of which has to her
+beguiled many a lonely and many a sorrowful hour, will not give a
+moment's pain to any human creature.
+
+
+
+
+PLATES.
+
+
+PLATE I. Val Longo, or Slave Market at Rio _to front the Title Page_.
+
+II. Represents the Great Dragon Tree of Oratava, of which Humboldt has
+given so interesting an account. He saw it in all its greatness; I drew
+it after it had lost half its top _to face Page 85_
+
+III. View of Count Maurice's Gate at Pernambuco, with the Slave Market
+107
+
+IV. Gamella Tree at Bahia 135
+
+V. Larangeiras 163
+
+VI. View from Count Hoggendorp's Cottage 170
+
+VII. View of Rio from the Gloria Hill 169
+
+VIII. Corcovado, from Botofogo 220
+
+IX. Palace of San Cristovaõ 246
+
+X. Dona Maria de Jesus 292
+
+XI. English Burial Ground 307
+
+
+
+
+VIGNETTES.
+
+
+I. That at the head of the Journal, page 77, represents two young Dragon
+Trees; that with a single head is twenty years old, and had not, when I
+saw it, been tapped for the Dragon's Blood. The other is about a century
+old, and the bark is disfigured by the incisions made in it to procure
+the gum _to face Page 77_
+
+II. Part of Pernambuco, seen from Cocoa-nut Island, within the Reef 97
+
+III. Slaves dragging a Hogshead in the Streets of Pernambuco 131
+
+IV. Cadeira, or Sedan Chair of Bahia 133
+
+V. Church and Convent of Sant Antonio da Barre at Bahia, as seen from
+the Roça 157
+
+VI. The Sugar-loaf Rock, at the Entrance to the Harbour of Rio de
+Janeiro 158
+
+VII. The End of an Island in the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro, drawn for
+the sake of the variety of Vegetation 201
+
+VIII. Convicts carrying Water at Rio de Janeiro 217
+
+IX. Stone Cart at Rio de Janeiro 321
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL.
+
+
+I judged it necessary to prefix the following sketch of the history of
+Brazil to the journal of my voyage thither, in order that the political
+events to which I was an eye-witness might be the better understood.
+
+The early part of the history is almost entirely taken from Mr. Southey.
+It would have been easy for me to have referred to the Portuguese
+authors, as I have read nearly all that are to be found in print of Mr.
+Southey's authorities, and some that he does not mention; but Mr.
+Southey had been so faithful as well as judicious in the use he has made
+of his authors, that it would have been absurd, if not impertinent, to
+have neglected his guidance. From the time of the King's arrival in
+Brazil, or rather of his leaving Lisbon, I am answerable for all I have
+stated: it is little, but I hope that little is correct.
+
+The circumstances of Spanish and Portuguese America were very different
+in every stage. In Mexico, in Peru, in Chili, the conquerors encountered
+a people civilised and humane; acquainted with many of the arts of
+polished life; agriculturists and mechanics; knowing in the things
+belonging to the altar and the throne, and waging war for conquest and
+for glory. But the savages of Brazil were hunters and cannibals; they
+wandered, and they made war for food: few of the tribes knew even the
+cultivation of the mandioc, and fewer still had adopted any kind of
+covering, save paint and feathers for ornament. The Spanish conquests
+were more quickly made, and appeared more easily settled, because in
+states so far advanced in civilisation the defeat of an army decides the
+fate of a kingdom, and the land already cultivated, and the mines
+already known and worked, were entered upon at once by the conquerors.
+
+In Brazil the land that was granted by leagues was _to be won by inches_
+from the hordes of savages who succeeded each other in incalculable
+multitudes, and whose migratory habits rendered it a matter of course
+for one tribe immediately to occupy the ground from which its
+predecessors had been driven. Hence the history of the early settlers in
+Brazil presents none of those splendid and chivalresque pictures that
+the chronicles of the Corteses, and Pizarros, and Almagros furnish. They
+are plain, and often pathetic scenes of human life, full of patience,
+and enterprise, and endurance; but the wickedness that stains even the
+best of them, is the more disgusting as it is more sordid.
+
+But the very circumstances that facilitated the settling of the Spanish
+colonies were also likely to accelerate their liberation. A sense and a
+remembrance of national honour and freedom, remained among the polished
+Mexicans and Peruvians. Their numbers indeed had been thinned by the
+cruelties of the conquerors, but enough were left to perpetuate the
+memory of their fathers, to hand down the prophecies uttered in the
+phrenzy of their dying patriots; and the Peruvian, when he visited Lima,
+looked round the chamber of the viceroys, as he saw niche after niche
+filled up with their pictures, till the fated number should be
+accomplished, with no common emotion[1]; and many a dreamer on the
+Peruvian coast, when he saw the Admiral of the Chilian squadron, was
+ready to hail him as the golden-haired son of light who was to restore
+the kingdom of the Incas.[2]
+
+[Note 1: The hall with the pictures of the viceroys was filled:
+there would be no room in it for Lacerna.]
+
+[Note 2: This prophecy was recorded by Garcelaço de la Vega; and it
+is said, that the copies of his Incas were bought up, and an edition
+printed, omitting the prophecy.]
+
+But in Brazil, what was once gained was not likely to be lost by the
+efforts of the natives, or at least by any recollection of their's,
+pointing to a better or more glorious time. They have been either
+exterminated, or wholly subdued. The slave hunting, which had been
+systematic on the first occupation of the land, and more especially
+after the discovery of the mines, had diminished the wretched Indians,
+so that the introduction of the hardier Africans was deemed necessary:
+_they_ now people the Brazilian fields; and if here and there an Indian
+aldea is to be found, the people are wretched, with less than Negro
+comforts, and much less than Negro spirit or industry. Hence, while the
+original Mexicans and Peruvians form a real and respectable part of the
+assertors of the independance of their country, along with the Creole
+Spaniards, the Indians are nothing in Brazil; even as a mixed race, they
+have less part among the different casts than in the Spanish colonies;
+and therefore jealousies among the Portuguese themselves could alone at
+this period have brought affairs to their present crisis. These
+jealousies have taken place, and though they did not arise principally
+out of the causes of the emigration and return of the Royal family, they
+were at least quickened and accelerated by them.
+
+In 1499, Brazil was discovered by Vicente Yañez Pinçon, a native of
+Palos, and one of the companions of Columbus. He and his brothers were
+in search of new countries, and after touching at the Cape de Verd
+Islands, he steered to the south-west, till he came to the coast of
+Brazil, near Cape St. Augustine, and coasted along as far as the river
+Maranham, and thence to the mouth of the Oronoco. He carried home some
+valuable drugs, precious stones, and Brazil wood; but had lost two of
+his three ships on the voyage. He made no settlement, but had claimed
+the country for Spain.
+
+Meantime Pedro Alvarez Cabral was appointed by Emanuel, King of
+Portugal, to the command of a large fleet, destined to follow the course
+of Vasco de Gama in the east. Adverse winds, however, drove the
+expedition so far to the westward, that it fell in with the coast of
+Brazil, and the ships anchored in Porto Seguro on Good-Friday of the
+year 1500. On Easter-day the first Christian altar was raised in the new
+continent under a large tree, and mass was performed, at which the
+innocent natives assisted with pleased attention: the country was taken
+possession of for the crown of Portugal by the name of the land of the
+Holy Cross, and a stone cross was erected to commemorate the event.
+Cabral dispatched a small vessel to Lisbon to announce his discovery,
+and then, without making any settlement, proceeded to India.
+
+On the arrival of the news in Europe, the King of Portugal invited
+Amerigo Vespucci from Seville, and sent him with three ships to explore
+the country. After a long and distressing voyage they arrived, and very
+early in their intercourse with the natives they discovered that they
+were cannibals, but nevertheless they established a friendly intercourse
+with some of the tribes; and after coasting along South America as far
+as lat. 52°, finding neither port nor inhabitants, and suffering from
+intolerable cold, they returned to Lisbon in 1502.
+
+Early in the next year Amerigo sailed again with six ships; but having
+stood too near the coast of Africa, after passing the Cape de Verds by
+the orders of the commander, four of the vessels were lost, but Amerigo
+with the other two reached a port which they called All Saints.[3] There
+they remained five months, in friendship with the natives, with whom
+some of the party travelled forty leagues into the interior. They
+erected a small fort, and left twelve men with guns and provisions, and
+having loaded their two ships with Brazil wood, monkeys, and parrots,
+they returned to Lisbon early in 1504.
+
+[Note 3: This cannot be Bahia; for they say, that after coasting 260
+leagues they were in 18°S.; now Bahia is in 12° 40', or nearly; the
+difference being 120 leagues; it must therefore be a port to the
+northward.]
+
+But as Brazil, as it now began to be called, did not promise that ample
+supply of gold which the Spaniards had discovered in their new
+countries, and which the Portuguese gained with less hazard from Africa,
+and from the East, the country ceased for a time to excite the attention
+of government, and the first actual settlements were made by private
+adventurers, who, on account of their trade, were desirous of having
+some kind of agents among the people. The first persons employed for
+this purpose were criminals, a sort of settlers that may do well in an
+unpeopled country, where there is nothing to do but to reclaim the land,
+but that must do ill where there are many and savage natives, because
+they either become degraded to the savage level themselves, if they
+continue friends, or, if not, they are apt to practise such cruelties
+and injustice as disgust the natives, render colonisation difficult, and
+if they teach any thing, it is all the worst part of the life of
+civilised nations.
+
+But in 1508, Amerigo Vespucci having returned to the service of Spain,
+the King resolved to take possession of the new land which had been
+discovered; and founding his claims on the grant of Alexander VI., he
+sent Vincent Yañez Pinçon and Juan Diaz de Solis to assert them. They
+made Cape St Augustine's, which Pinçon had discovered, and coasted along
+to lat. 40° south, erecting crosses as they went; but some disputes
+having arisen between them, they returned to Spain: and it appears that
+the remonstrances of Portugal against the voyage, as an interference
+with her discoveries, had some weight, for it was not until 1515 that
+Solis was dispatched on a second voyage, and then it was with the avowed
+purpose of seeking a passage to the Great Pacific Sea, which had been
+sought and seen by Balboa in 1513.
+
+That extraordinary but unfortunate man was the first European whose eyes
+rested on the broad Pacific. He had heard from the Indians of its
+existence, and resolutely set out to discover it, well aware of the
+dangers and difficulties he had to encounter. After twenty-five days of
+suffering and fatigue, he saw the South Sea; he heard of Peru, its
+mines, and its llamas, its cities and its aqueducts, and he received
+pearls[4] from the islands that lay in front of St. Miguel's bay, where
+he walked sword in hand up to his middle into the water and took
+possession for the King of Spain. No one in Europe now doubted that the
+western way to the East Indies was discovered.
+
+[Note 4: Pearl islands, in the bay of Panama. The sand of the beach
+of those islands is iron, and is as easily attracted by the loadstone as
+steel filings.]
+
+Great hopes were therefore entertained from the expedition of Solis.
+That able navigator made the coast of Brazil far to the southward of
+Cape St. Augustine, where he had been with Pinçon; and on the 1st of
+January 1516 he discovered the harbour of Rio de Janeiro; thence he
+sailed still to the southward, and entered what he hoped at first would
+be a sea, or strait, by which he might communicate with the ocean; but
+it was the river La Plata, where Solis and several of his followers were
+murdered and devoured by the natives. The ships then put back to St.
+Augustines, loaded with Brazil wood, and returned to Spain.
+
+But the King Don Emanuel claimed these cargoes, and again remonstrated
+against the interference of Spain so effectually, that three years
+afterwards, when Magalhaens touched at Rio de Janeiro, he purchased
+nothing but provisions.
+
+Meantime several French adventurers had come to Brazil, and had taken in
+their cargoes of Brazil wood, monkies and parrots, and sometimes
+plundered some of the weaker Portuguese traders. In 1616, two of these
+adventurers entered the bay of All Saints, and had begun to trade with
+the Indians, when the Portuguese commander, Cristovam Jaques, sailing
+into the port, and examining all its coves, discovered them, and sunk
+the ships, crews, and cargoes. About the same time, a young Portuguese
+nobleman, who had been wrecked on the shoal off the entrance of the
+harbour[5], and who had seen half his companions drowned, and half eaten
+by the Indians, had contrived to conciliate the natives. He had saved a
+musket and some powder from the wreck, and having taken an opportunity
+of shooting a bird in the presence of the inhabitants, they called him
+Caramuru, or the man of fire; and, as he accompanied them on an
+expedition against their enemies the Tapuyas, he became a favourite,
+married at least one Indian wife, and fixed his residence at the spot
+now called Villa Velha, near an excellent spring, and not far from the
+entrance to the bay.
+
+[Note 5: I suppose that off St. Antonio da Barre.]
+
+Caramuru, however, felt some natural longing to see his native land, and
+accordingly seized the opportunity afforded by the arrival of a French
+vessel, and taking his favourite wife, he went with her to France, where
+they were well received by the court, the king and queen standing
+sponsors at the baptism of the Brazilian lady, whose marriage was now
+celebrated according to the Christian form. Caramuru, however, was not
+permitted to go to Portugal; but by means of a young Portuguese student
+at Paris[6], he communicated his situation to the King Joam III., and
+pressed him to send an expedition to the bay of All Saints. Shortly
+afterwards, Caramuru returned to Bahia, having agreed to freight two
+ships with Brazil wood as the price of his passage, of the artillery of
+the ships, and of the articles necessary for trading with the natives.
+
+Still, however, as Brazil furnished neither gold, nor that rich commerce
+which the Portuguese derived from their Indian trade, it was pretty much
+left to itself for the first thirty years after its discovery; and then
+the regulations adopted by the court were not, perhaps, the most
+advantageous for the country. The coast was divided by Joam III. into
+captaincies, many of which extended fifty leagues, and each captaincy
+was made hereditary, and granted to any one who was willing to embark
+with sufficient means in the adventure; and to these captains an
+unlimited jurisdiction, both criminal and civil, was granted.
+
+The first person who took possession of one of these captaincies was
+Martim Affonso de Souza, in 1531, who sometimes claims the discovery of
+Rio de Janeiro as his, although it had been named by Solis fifteen years
+before. Souza was probably deterred from fixing on the shores of that
+beautiful bay, by the number and fierceness of the Indian tribes that
+occupied them. He therefore coasted towards the south, naming Ilha
+Grande dos Magos on twelfth-day, when
+
+    "Three kings, or what is more, three wise men went
+    Westward to seek the world's true orient."
+
+[Note 6: Pedro Fernandez Sardinha, the first bishop of Brazil.]
+
+St. Sebastian's on the 20th, and St. Vincent's on the 22d; but having
+proceeded as far south as the La Plata, he returned to the neighbourhood
+of San Vincente, where he ultimately founded his colony, and whence he
+named the whole captaincy.
+
+Martim Affonso de Souza was no ordinary man: his cares for his colony
+did not relax even after he had been recalled, and sent as
+governor-general to India, where he had before highly distinguished
+himself. He introduced the sugar-cane from Madeira into his colony, and
+in it also the first cattle were bred. Thence they have spread all over
+the continent of South America, and have proved of more real value to it
+than its mines.
+
+Pero Lopes de Souza, the brother of Martim Affonso, had his fifty
+leagues of coast in two allotments; one part, St. Amaro, was immediately
+to the north of San Vincente, and the other was Tamaraca, between
+Pernambuco and Paraiba.
+
+About the same time the Fidalgo Pedro de Goes attempted a settlement at
+Paraiba do Sul; but after two years tolerable prosperity, he was
+attacked by the native tribe of Goaytacazes, and five years of warfare
+reduced him to the necessity of sending to Espirito Santo for vessels to
+remove his colonists.
+
+Vasco Fernandez de Coutinho began to settle Espirito Santo in the same
+year (1531) in which the former colonies had been begun. He had amassed
+a great fortune in the East, and expended most of it in collecting
+volunteers for his new colony; sixty fidalgoes and men of the royal
+household accompanied him. The adventurers had a prosperous voyage. On
+their arrival they built a fort, which they called N. S. da Victoria,
+and established four sugar-works. Coutinho returned to Lisbon for
+recruits and implements for mining, the settlers having now obtained
+some indications of gold and jewels to be found in the country.
+
+The adjoining captaincy of Porto Seguro was given to Pedro de Campo
+Tourinho, a nobleman and a navigator. He sold his possessions at home,
+and raised a large body of colonists, with which he established himself
+at Porto Seguro, the harbour where Cabral had first taken possession of
+Brazil. The history of the settlement of Porto Seguro, like that of all
+the others, is stained with the most atrocious cruelties; not such as
+soldiers in the heat of war commit, but cold calculated cruelties,
+exterminating men for the sake of growing canes, so waiting patiently
+for the _fruit_ of crime.[7]
+
+[Note 7: I hope the following tale is not true, though my authority
+is good. In this very captaincy, within these twenty years, an Indian
+tribe had been so troublesome, that the Capitam Môr resolved to get rid
+of it. It was attacked, but defended itself so bravely, that the
+Portuguese resolved to desist from open warfare; but with unnatural
+ingenuity exposed ribands and toys infected with smallpox matter in the
+places where the poor savages were likely to find them: the plan
+succeeded. The Indians were so thinned, that they were easily overcome!]
+
+_Ilheos_, so called from its principal river, which has three islands at
+the mouth, was settled by Jorge de Figueredo Correa, who had a place in
+the treasury, under Joam III., between 1531 and 1540, and speedily
+became flourishing, being remarkably favourable to the sugar
+cultivation.
+
+Bahia de Todo os Santos was, with its adjacent territory, given to
+Francisco Pereira Coutinho, a fidalgo who had made himself a name in
+India. He fixed his abode at Villa Velha, where Caramuru had formed his
+little settlement, and two of his followers married the daughters of
+Caramuru.
+
+The bay, or reconcave of All Saints, is a magnificent harbour: the
+entrance appears to be a league in breadth; but on the right hand, on
+entering, there is a shoal dangerous to large vessels, called that of
+St. Antonio da Barre; and on the left, coral reefs running off from
+Itaporica. The country that surrounds it is so fertile, that it must
+always have been an object of desire whether to savage or civilised
+inhabitants; and it is not surprising that three revolutions, that is,
+three changes of indwellers, driven out by each other, should have been,
+in the memory of the Indians, before the settlement of Coutinho.
+
+That nobleman, whose early life had been passed in the East-Indian
+Portuguese wars, imprudently and cruelly disturbed the peace of the
+rising settlement, by the murder of a son of one of the chiefs. The
+consequence was, that after a most disastrous warfare, in the course of
+which the already flourishing sugar-works were burnt, he and Caramuru
+were both obliged to abandon the settlement and retire to Ilheos. Soon
+afterwards, however, he made peace with the Indians; but on his return
+to the Reconcave, he was wrecked on the reef off Itaporica, where the
+natives murdered him, but spared Caramuru, who returned to his old
+dwelling.
+
+In the settlement of Pernambuco, the first donatory, Duarte Coelho
+Pereira, was opposed not only by the natives, but by numbers of French,
+who having carried on a desultory though profitable trade on the coast,
+now joined the Indians in retarding those regular settlements which were
+likely to put an end to their commerce. The colony, however, had been
+planted at Olinda,[8] a situation as strong as it is beautiful, and
+Pereira contrived to engage some of the Indian tribes in his favour. The
+war was but of short continuance, and nothing farther, except the
+seizure of the little settlement of Garussa, in the woods and near the
+creek which separates Itameraca from the main land, occurred to impede
+the prosperity of the captaincy.
+
+[Note 8: There is a note in the first volume of Southey's Brazil
+concerning the name of Marino given to Olinda by Hans Staade. The other
+Brazilians call the Pernambucans of Recife Marineros still. Is this from
+the town or their nautical habits? or from the name of the Indian
+village Marim which existed in the neighbourhood?]
+
+The last colony which was founded during these ten eventful years was
+that of Maranham. Three adventurers undertook this settlement jointly.
+The most celebrated was Joam de Barros, the historian; the others were
+Fernam Alvares de Andrada, father of the writer of the Chronicle, and
+Aires da Cunha.
+
+Aires da Cunha, Barros's two sons, and nine hundred men, sailed in ten
+ships for their new possession, but were wrecked on the shoals of
+Maranham; so that it was long before any success attended the
+undertaking. Da Cunha was drowned, the sons of Barros slain by the
+Indians, and the rest of the people with difficulty survived in a very
+wretched condition.
+
+Meantime the passage through Magellan's Straits had been discovered, and
+the Spaniards, first under Sebastian Cabot, and afterwards under Don
+Pedro de Mendoza, who founded Buenos Ayres, had begun to settle on the
+shores of the Plata, not without opposition from the Portuguese, and a
+more obstinate and fatal resistance from the Indians. The tribes in this
+neighbourhood appear to have been more civilised than those of the coast
+of Brazil, and consequently more formidable enemies to the rising towns.
+Orellana had also made his daring voyage down the mighty river that is
+sometimes called by his name. He had afterwards perished in an attempt
+to make a settlement on its shores, and nearly the same fate had
+attended Luiz de Mello da Silva, who made a similar attempt on the part
+of Portugal.
+
+Cabeza de Vacca had also made his adventurous overland journey from St.
+Catherine's, and after settling himself in the government of Assumption,
+had conducted various expeditions of discovery, always in hopes of
+finding an easy way to the gold countries. In one of these he found
+traces of the adventurer Garcia, a Portuguese, who, under the orders of
+Martim Affonso de Souza, had, with five companions, undertaken to
+explore the interior of South America. This man had by some means so
+conciliated the Indians, that he was followed by a very considerable
+army, and is said to have penetrated even into Tarija. He is believed to
+have perished by the hand of one of his own followers, but no
+particulars were ever known of his fate.
+
+During the next ten years, nothing remarkable occurred with regard to
+Brazil, except the founding of the city of St. Salvador's, by Thome de
+Souza, the first Captain General of Brazil, who carried out with him the
+first Jesuit missionaries. For the site of his new town De Souza fixed
+upon the hill immediately above the deepest part of the harbour of
+Bahia, which is defended at the back by a deep lake, and lies about half
+a league from the Villa Velha of Coutinho and Caramuru.
+
+The temporal concerns of the new colony, derived inestimable advantage
+from the friendship and assistance of the patriarch Caramuru: as to the
+spiritual, it was indeed time that some rule of faith and morals should
+find its way to Brazil. The settlers had hitherto had no instructors
+but friars, whose manners were as dissolute as their own, and who
+encouraged in them a licentious depravity, scarcely less shocking than
+the cannibalism of the savages. These latter are said to have eaten the
+children born by their own daughters to their prisoners of war,--a thing
+so unnatural, that it only gains credit because the Portuguese sold as
+slaves even their own children by the native women. The apostle of
+Brazil, as he may in truth be called, and chief of the six Jesuits who
+accompanied Souza, was Nobrega, the cotemporary and rival in the race of
+disinterested services to his fellow creatures of St. Francis Xavier;
+and, with regard to his steady attempts to protect as well as to convert
+the Indians, another Las Casas.
+
+Brazil was becoming an object of importance to the crown of Portugal.
+The new settlement of Bahia was established on the king's account, and
+at his expense 1000 persons had been sent out the first year, 1549. In
+four months there were 100 houses, six batteries, and a cathedral: a
+college for the Jesuits, a palace, and a custom-house were begun; the
+whole was defended by a mud wall. The next year supplies of all kinds
+arrived from Lisbon, and the year after that several female orphans, of
+noble family, were sent out as wives for the officers, with dowries in
+negroes, kine, and brood-mares.
+
+About this time, a Spanish expedition destined for the river Plata
+miscarried; one of the ships was wrecked off St. Vincent's, and to Hans
+Staade, one of the crew who survived and after various adventures fell
+into the power of the Indians, we are indebted for the most authentic
+and particular account of the Brazilian Savages.[9] It is curious that
+the Indians of the new world, should so very far exceed all the savage
+tribes of the old in barbarity. But it is certain that no authentic
+accounts of cannibals have ever been brought from Africa; whereas, none
+of the early writers on Brazil and its inhabitants have failed to dwell
+upon their love of human flesh, as characteristic of the people.
+
+[Note 9: In the Historia da Provincia Sancta Cruz, by Pero de
+Magalhaens de Gandano, 1576, there is an account sufficiently tallying
+with that which Southey has compiled from Hans Staade and De Lery. But
+it is far from being so disgusting. There is a copper-plate representing
+the dragging the prisoner with cords, and felling him with a club. The
+author gives a short account of the then known plants and animals of
+Brazil, and concludes with the hope that the mines believed to exist may
+speedily be found.--See the collection of tracts by Barbosa Maehado.]
+
+The year 1552 is distinguished by the arrival of the first bishop in
+Brazil. His see was fixed at St. Salvador's, or, as it is generally
+called, Bahia. In the next year, Thome de Souza retired from his
+government, and was succeeded by Don Duarte da Costa, who was
+accompanied by seven jesuits, among whom was the celebrated
+Anchieta.[10] The chief of the order, Loyola, was still alive, he
+erected Brazil into a new province, and appointed Nobrega and Luis de
+Gran, who had been principal at Coimbra, joint provincials. From that
+moment the labours of the fathers for the real good of the country
+commenced. And whatever may be the opinions entertained, as to their
+politics and ultimate views, there is not a doubt but that the means
+they employed to reclaim and civilise the Indians, were mild, and
+therefore successful; that while they wrought their own purposes, they
+made their people happy; and that centuries will not repair the evil
+done by their sudden expulsion, which broke up the bands of humanised
+society which were beginning to unite the Indians with their fellow
+creatures.
+
+[Note 10: Anchieta was not only a man of extraordinary firmness of
+mind and real piety, but a politician of no common cast, and his civil
+services to the Portuguese government were equal to those of the
+greatest captains, while his labours as a missionary and teacher were
+beyond those of any individual of whom I have ever read. His merits as a
+christian apostle and a man of literature, have disarmed even Mr.
+Southey of his usual rancour against the Roman Catholic faith. That
+excellent writer's book on Brazil is spoilt by intemperate language on a
+subject on which human feeling is least patient of direct contradiction,
+so that the general circulation of it is rendered impossible, and the
+good it might otherwise do in the country for which it is written
+frustrated. Oh, that Mr. Southey would remember the quotation which he
+himself brings forward from Jeremy Taylor! "Zeal against an error is not
+always the best instrument to find out truth."]
+
+In 1553, the first school was established in Brazil, by Nobrega, in the
+high plains of Piratininga, about thirteen leagues from the colony of
+San Vicente. Anchieta was the school-master. The school was opened on
+the feast of the conversion of St. Paul, and the establishment, and the
+infant colony rising round it, received the name of the saint. St.
+Paul's has since grown to be one of the most important towns in Brazil.
+Its rich minerals, its iron-works, and other manufactures, but, above
+all, the high and free spirit of its inhabitants, who have taken the
+lead in every effort for the good of the country, distinguish it above
+all the southern towns of Brazil.
+
+Anchieta, while he taught Latin to the Portuguese and Mamalucos,[11] and
+Portuguese to the Brazilians, learnt from these last their own tongue,
+and composed a grammar and dictionary for them. He had no books for his
+pupils, so that he wrote on separate leaves, in four different
+languages, the daily lesson for each. He served as physician, as well as
+priest and school-master, and practised and taught the most useful
+domestic arts. But the colony had, like all the others, to fight for its
+early existence; it was attacked by the Mamalucos of the neighbouring
+settlement of St. André, who regarded the instruction of the Indians as
+a step towards abolishing their slavery, and exclaimed against it as an
+infringement of what they called their right to the services of the
+natives. They engaged by other pretences some of the neighbouring tribes
+to assist them, but they were met and defeated by those of St. Paul's.
+
+[Note 11: Mamaluco. These were the Creole Portuguese, who had most
+of them intermarried with the natives.]
+
+Meantime some disputes having arisen between the Governor and the
+Bishop, the latter resolved to return to Lisbon, but was wrecked on the
+coast at a place called the Baixos de San Francisco, and there seized,
+and with one hundred other white persons put to death by the Cahetes.
+The revenge of the Portuguese was horrible, the Cahetes were hunted,
+slaughtered, and all but exterminated.
+
+In the year 1557, Joam III. died. His appointment of Mem de Sa, before
+his death, to the government of Brazil, prevented the country from
+immediately feeling the evils which a regency generally entails even in
+an established government, but which are sure to fall with tenfold
+weight upon a rising colony.
+
+Mem de Sa was a man of more enlightened mind, and more humane principles
+than most of those to whom the government of the Brazilian provinces
+had been intrusted. He arrived at Bahia in 1558, and earnestly applied
+himself to learn the relations in which the Portuguese, the Creoles, the
+Indians, and the mixed race stood to each other.
+
+His first acts were directed towards reclaiming the allied Indians from
+some of their most brutal practices, and to induce them to form
+settlements near those of the Jesuits. The selfish planters, interested
+in keeping up the feuds of the Indians, in order to procure slaves,
+exclaimed against these proceedings as violations of the freedom of the
+natives, and they were equally displeased at the orders issued, to set
+at liberty all the Indians who had been wrongfully enslaved. One
+powerful colonist alone refused to obey: Mem de Sa ordered his house to
+be surrounded and instantly levelled with the ground. Such an act was
+certainly calculated to inspire the Indians with confidence in his good
+intentions towards them, at the same time that his vigorous measures to
+punish them for any infraction of their engagements kept them in awe.
+
+Meantime an adventurer of no ordinary stamp, had formed a settlement in
+the finest harbour of Brazil, namely, that of Rio de Janeiro. Nicholas
+Durand de Villegagnon was a native of Provins en Brie, and a Knight of
+Malta. In 1648, he had been employed by Mary of Guise, at the entreaty
+of the French court, to convey her daughter the young Queen of Scots to
+France: in 1651 he was engaged in the defence of Malta, against the
+Pacha Sinan and the famous Dragut Reis, and two years afterwards
+published an account of that campaign. Having visited Brazil in 1558,
+Villegagnon could not be insensible to the advantages that must arise to
+France from having a settlement there; and, on his return to Europe, he
+made such representations at court of these advantages, that Henry II.
+gave him two vessels, each of 200 tons, and a store ship of 100 tons, to
+convey the adventurers who might wish to leave France, and who at that
+time were numerous. Villegagnon, wishing to make use of Coligny's
+interest, gave out that the new settlement was to be a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots, and this answered the double purpose of securing
+the Admiral's friendship, and gaining a number of respectable colonists.
+With these he reached Rio de Janeiro, and made his first settlement in a
+low rock at the mouth of the harbour, where there is now a small fort
+called the Laje, but finding it not sufficiently elevated to resist the
+high tides, he pitched on an island within the harbour, where there is
+only one landing place, and whose form and situation is singularly
+adapted for safety, especially against such enemies as the Indians.
+Those, however, of the Rio had been long accustomed to trade with the
+French, who, if they had not taught them, had at least encouraged them,
+to hate the Portuguese, whom Villegagnon flattered himself that he
+should be able to keep aloof by the assistance of the Savages.
+
+Meantime Coligny had exerted himself to send out assistance of every
+kind; provisions, recruits[12], and protestant ministers. But
+Villegagnon now imagined himself secure in his colony, and threw off the
+mask of toleration. He behaved so tyrannically that many of the Hugonots
+were obliged to return to France, and of them he made the most malicious
+complaints, and concluded by saying, that they were heretics worthy of
+the stake.
+
+[Note 12: Among these was Jean de Lery.]
+
+But nothing is so short-sighted as wickedness. Villegagnon's treachery
+was the cause of the ruin of his enterprise. Ten thousand protestants
+were ready to embark for Coligny, as the island, now called Villegagnon,
+was then named: but the report of those who had returned, stopped them,
+and the colony was left in a defenceless state.
+
+At length the attention of the court of Lisbon had been drawn towards
+the French settlement, and orders were sent to the Captain General to
+examine into its state first, and then, if possible, to take it.
+
+Accordingly, Mem de Sa, accompanied by Nobrega and two other Jesuits,
+attacked it in January, 1560, while Villegagnon was absent in France,
+and demolished the works, but had not sufficient force to attempt
+forming a settlement; and had Villegagnon succeeded in returning with
+the recruits he expected, he would have found it easy to re-establish
+and perhaps revenge himself. But his bad faith deterred the Hugonots
+from joining him, the civil war prevented the government from assisting
+him, and the French colony was lost.
+
+In 1564, Estacio de Sa, nephew of Mem, was sent out from Portugal to
+form a settlement in Rio, but finding his means inadequate to contend
+with the Indians, led on by the few remaining French, he went to San
+Vincente for reinforcements; these, however, only enabled him to keep up
+the war, and to maintain himself in a post he had fortified[13], not far
+from the entrance of the harbour, and near the Sugar-loaf mountain, a
+bare and inaccessible rock, which, from a base of about four hundred
+feet, shoots up to a thousand in perpendicular height, on the west side
+of the bar. He therefore applied to his uncle for succour, who,
+collecting what force he could, led them in person, and arrived in the
+harbour on the 18th of January, 1567. On the 20th, St. Sebastian's day,
+the Indians and French were attacked in their strongest hold, then
+called Uraçumiri, and having obtained a decisive victory, the French
+embarked in the four ships they still possessed, and fled to the coast
+of Pernambuco, where they attempted to form a settlement at Recife, but
+were dislodged by the Portuguese of Olinda.
+
+[Note 13: Mr. Southey says this spot is called Villa Velha. But
+there is no place existing in the neighbourhood of that name, nor could
+I find any person at Rio de Janeiro who remembered such a place. It was,
+however, most probably on the site of the present St. Juan, or of the
+fort of Praya Vermelha, which answers exactly to the description.]
+
+Mem de Sa now founded the city of St. Sebastian, more commonly called
+the city of Rio; and for its security the Jesuits, with their Indians,
+fortified both sides of the entrance to the harbour, which is about four
+miles distant from the city across the bay. Before these works, however,
+or the walls of the town were completed, the French made a vigorous
+effort to disturb the rising colony; but it ended in their defeat, and
+their guns were made use of to fortify the mouth of the harbour.
+
+Driven from Rio, the French attempted to form a settlement at Paraiba
+the next year; but the Indians, with the Jesuits at their head, and a
+very few troops, under the commander Martim Leytam, expelled them.
+
+Under Mem de Sa the state had been so prosperous, that though he had
+been Captain-general far beyond the term of his original appointment,
+Don Sebastian, on assuming the crown, continued him in office for two
+years longer, and then named Luiz de Vasconcellos to succeed him. That
+nobleman never reached Brazil. With him sailed a fleet of seven ships,
+bearing, besides the governor, sixty-nine Jesuit missionaries, and a
+number of orphan girls, whose parents had died of the plague, and whom
+the government was sending out to settle in Brazil. The fleet, in
+different divisions, fell in with French and English ships, and the
+Jesuits, save one, to use their own expression, received the crown of
+martyrdom, and the new governor was killed in action off Tercera. As
+soon as his death was known at Lisbon, Luiz de Brito de Almeida was
+appointed to his vacant office; and Mem de Sa just lived long enough to
+witness the arrival of his successor. Nobrega, who had begun that
+system, on which the singular government of the Jesuits in Paraguay was
+conducted, had died a few months before, so that Brazil was deprived
+nearly at once of the two ablest men that had yet been concerned in its
+government.
+
+But Luiz de Brito did not succeed to the government of all Brazil. It
+was judged proper to divide the colony into two captaincies, Rio de
+Janeiro being the capital of the southern division, which included Porto
+Seguro and every thing to the south of it; while Bahia remained the
+capital of the northern districts. There Luiz de Brito fixed his
+residence, and Doctor Antonio Salerna was appointed governor of the
+south. But this division was soon found inconvenient, and the two parts
+were re-united[14] about 1578, the year in which a new governor, Diego
+Laurenço da Viega, arrived.
+
+[Note 14: When the Historia da Provincia de Sancta Cruz, by Pero
+Magalhaēs de Gadano, was printed, 1575, they were still separate; but
+Southey's MS. of 1578 says they had been re-united.]
+
+This was the year when the loss of Don Sebastian in Africa threw
+Portugal into the hands of Spain. King Philip, eager to annex that
+kingdom for ever to his crown, offered Brazil, with the title of King,
+to Braganza if he would give up his claim to the crown of Portugal. But
+it was reserved for his descendant to achieve the independence of
+Brazil, and he refused it.
+
+The colony was at this period most flourishing, though not altogether
+able to do without occasional supplies from the mother country. But
+already the original mud-cottages, supported by frame-work and thatched
+with palm-leaves, of the first settlers, had given way to well built and
+handsome houses of stone and brick, covered with tiles as in Europe. The
+reconcave of Bahia had sixty-two churches, and upwards of seventy
+sugar-works: the land was well stocked with cattle, all the kinds of
+orange and lime trees introduced by Europeans had flourished. The
+country abounded in excellent native fruits, and the mandioc furnished
+never-failing stores of bread. Olinda partook of all these advantages,
+and was itself the best built and most populous town in Brazil. Rio de
+Janeiro had become a place only inferior in importance to the other two,
+its natural advantages being still greater, and the climate milder; nor
+were the other captaincies less prosperous.
+
+But the transfer of the crown into foreign hands changed the aspect of
+affairs in Brazil. Inferior to the Spanish American countries in mines,
+it was considered only of consequence as being occupied by Spanish
+subjects, and so forming a barrier against the intrusion of other
+nations.
+
+By this time the English had begun to trade on the coast of Brazil, and
+in 1577 Drake had passed through the Straits of Magellan in his
+memorable voyage round the world. His appearance in the southern seas
+alarmed Philip the Second, now King of Portugal as well as of Spain, and
+consequently Lord of Brazil. He attempted to form a colony and maintain
+a fort in the Straits, in order to prevent future navigators from
+passing; but of it nothing is left but the name, _Port Famine_, which
+attests the miserable fate of the colonists. The English commerce was
+also cut off in Brazil. Some vessels trading peaceably at San Vincente
+were attacked in the harbour by the Spaniards in superior force; one of
+the latter was sunk, and the English escaped next day. In 1686, the Earl
+of Cumberland fitted out an expedition, in which Raleigh served and
+Witherington was admiral, which entered the reconcave of Bahia and
+plundered it, remaining there six weeks, the city being only saved by
+the Indian archers. Baretto, the governor of Brazil, died the next year,
+and was succeeded by D. Antonio Barreiros the bishop, and Christovam de
+Barros as joint governors; and they were soon superseded by Francisco
+Giraldes: he, however, never arrived in the country, and Don Francisco
+de Souza was appointed in his stead.
+
+During his captaincy some search was made after mines by a descendant of
+Caramuru, who offered to discover where he had found the silver of which
+he had services in his house and chapel, on condition of receiving the
+title of Marques. This Philip refused to grant, and the secret, if
+indeed the man had one, died with him.
+
+Meantime the celebrated Cavendish had made one voyage round the world,
+and had committed such ravages on the coast of Spanish America, as not
+even the atrocious habits of naval warfare in those days can excuse. In
+1591, he embarked in a second expedition, arrived in December on the
+coast of Brazil, and took Santos and burned San Vincente. The ships then
+sailed for the Straits, but were baffled in their attempt to pass, and
+returned to the coast of Brazil to obtain provisions. Cavendish, who had
+many great and good qualities, and who might certainly think it
+allowable to supply himself on an enemy's coast, made an attempt on
+Espiritu Santo, but by a mistake in executing his orders it failed, and
+he sailed for England, but died of a broken heart on the passage.
+
+The most remarkable expedition of the English to the coast of Brazil was
+that of Sir James Lancaster to Pernambuco. He had the command of three
+small vessels of 240, 120, and 60 tons. At Cape Blanco he learned that a
+rich carrack from India had been wrecked near Olinda, and that her cargo
+was safely stowed at Recife. He therefore fitted five out of near thirty
+small prizes to accompany him, and built a galley frigate to land with.
+He was also reinforced by Captain Vernon with two ships, a pinnace, and
+a prize, and then sailed direct for Recife, where they arrived in March,
+1595. On Good Friday of that year the town was taken with little
+resistance, and Lancaster permitted not the slightest disorder after the
+place was taken. He fortified the sandy isthmus which connects Recife
+with Olinda, and then proceeded at leisure to stow his ships with the
+goods found in the town, and hired the Dutch vessels lying in the port
+as store-ships. Some French privateers coming in, he also hired them
+with part of the booty to assist in the defence of the place, till the
+lading of the vessels should be completed. The Portuguese made several
+attempts to burn Lancaster's ships, which were all baffled by his
+prudence, and after remaining in possession of Recife twenty days he
+prepared to sail. However, on the very last day of his stay, some of his
+people, both English and French, having advanced too far in a sally
+against the Portuguese, were killed, and the enemy claimed a victory,
+which Lancaster being now ready for sea had no inclination to dispute.
+And this was the last attack made by the English on the coast of Brazil.
+
+But the French had renewed their attempts, and under Rifault and his
+successor De Vaux had succeeded in forming a settlement in the island of
+Maranham, 1611. And shortly afterwards Henry IV. sent Daniel de la
+Touche, Lord of La Rivardière[15], to examine the country, in order to
+form a permanent colony. His report was favourable; and though on his
+return to France Henry was dead, an expedition of three ships,
+containing 500 men, was fitted out, and in 1612 they arrived on the
+island, speedily conciliated the natives, and the colony promised to
+thrive. But the court of Madrid quickly sent out orders to the governor
+of Brazil to attack the intruders. Various accidents prolonged the
+warfare, and it was not until 1618 that they were dislodged, and a
+permanent Portuguese colony formed. Its distance from the seat of
+government determined the court of Madrid to erect Maranham and Para
+into a separate state, of which the capital was fixed at San Luiz, a
+town and fort built by the French on the island.
+
+[Note 15: In Barbosa Machado's curious collection of pamphlets, in
+the library of Rio de Janeiro, is one by the Capt. Symam Estacio da
+Sylveira, printed in 1624. He had been at the taking of Maranham from
+the French, and his paper is evidently a decoy for colonists. He says,
+that Daniel de la Touche was induced to go thither by Itayuba of the
+_Iron arm_, a Frenchman who had been brought up among the Tupinambas. Is
+this Mr. Southey's Rifault?]
+
+Meantime the Dutch had formed a West Indian Company, trusting that they
+would thereby be able to annoy the court of Spain in their American
+possessions, as they had already done in the East Indies. In 1624, a
+fleet under Jacob Willekins and the famous Peter Heyne was fitted out
+for that purpose. The ships having been separated in a gale of wind,
+Willekins made the Morro de San Paulo, about forty miles south of Bahia,
+where he waited for the rest of the convoy. When it arrived he sailed
+boldly into the reconcave, and St. Salvador was taken almost without a
+struggle. Vandort, the Dutch general, immediately began to fortify the
+place, and proclamations being issued promising freedom and redress of
+wrongs to all who should submit, many Indians, negroes, and Jews
+instantly joined him. But the Portuguese, who had hoped that the Dutch
+had only come to plunder the city, seeing that they were sitting quietly
+down as in a permanent establishment, roused themselves, and after some
+little disagreement as to who should command them, pitched on the Bishop
+Don Marcos Texeira. He fixed his head-quarters on the Rio Vermelho. The
+Dutch were weakened by the departure of Willekins for Holland, and of
+Peter Heyne for Angola, the plan of the West India Company being to
+secure that settlement, in order to have a certain supply of slaves for
+their new conquests in Brazil. Dort had been killed, and there was no
+competent commander. The Bishop's troops harassed those of the city in
+every direction, and the Dutch were prepared to become an easy prey to
+Don Fadrique de Toledo, who had been sent from Spain with a strong force
+to recover the capital of Brazil. They capitulated, therefore, in May,
+1625, and conditioned for being sent to Holland with sufficient arms and
+their personal baggage, leaving the city and forts as they were.
+
+The next year, however, Peter Heyne returned to the reconcave. Every
+precaution was taken against him by the governor. Four large ships with
+men and artillery were placed to intercept him; but in his single ship,
+the rest of his squadron not being able to come up with him, ran in
+between two of them, sunk one, and compelled several others to strike:
+his own ship, however, grounded, and he burnt her. He added four ships
+to his own fleet, loaded four others with prize-goods, and burnt the
+rest. Nor was this his only success; for although the Dutch had been
+baffled in several attempts on the coast, they sent home prizes enough
+to be of national importance.
+
+But a conquest of infinitely more consequence was shortly made; that of
+Olinda, which, in 1630, was taken after a feeble resistance on the part
+of Matthias de Albuquerque. The Dutch general-in-chief was Henrik Loncq,
+the admiral was Peter Ardian, and Wardenburg commanded the troops. The
+latter landed at Pao Amarello, three leagues to the north, while the
+ships kept up a regular fire opposite to the place; consequently the
+Portuguese were surprised, and the towns and forts easily taken.
+
+But the country around continued to be the theatre of a most cruel
+predatory war, during which atrocious cruelties were committed by both
+parties, but chiefly by the Dutch; and while these things were going on,
+a number of negroes had escaped from time to time into the great
+palm-forests, about thirty leagues inland, and had multiplied so that
+they are said to have amounted to upwards of thirty thousand. These men
+were governed by a chief whom they called Zombi: they had some laws, a
+shadow of the Christian religion, and were agriculturists. They harassed
+the Portuguese, and added by their depredations to the general misery.
+
+At length the Dutch government sent out Count Maurice of Nassau, to take
+the command at Pernambuco. He arrived in 1537, and carried on the war so
+vigorously that the Portuguese retired out of the province. He also set
+about reforming the abuses which existed among the Dutch themselves at
+Recife, and having established himself firmly there, he sent one of his
+officers, Jan Koin, over to the coast of Africa, who took possession of
+St. Jorge da Mina, by which a supply of slaves was secured, and leaving
+a garrison there, returned to Recife. The next year, Maurice made an
+unsuccessful attack on St. Salvador. His fleet anchored in the bay of
+Tapagipe; but though he obtained at first some important posts, he was
+finally repulsed and returned with loss to Pernambuco. There he occupied
+himself in building a new town, and making the two first bridges that
+had yet been built in Portuguese America, besides planting trees, and
+improving the fortifications. In 1640 he sent the famous sea-warrior Jol
+into the reconcave, to lay it waste; and he accordingly burnt the whole
+of the sugar-works in the bay, while the Indians who were friendly to
+the Dutch, fell on the land-side of the captaincy, and harassed the
+unhappy settlers in an equal degree.
+
+At length the court of Madrid began to be alarmed for the safety of
+Brazil, and fitted out a large armament for its relief. Storms and
+sickness diminished it, ere it arrived, to nearly one half. That half
+arrived at Bahia, in 1640, under D. Jorge de Mascasentras, Marques de
+Monte Alvam. Before he had time either to make open war, or to
+negociate, the revolution in Portugal, which placed Braganza on the
+throne of his ancestors, took place. The viceroy, unjustly suspected of
+adhering to Spain, was sent home, and a commission, composed of
+Barbalho, Correa, and the bishop, appointed in his stead.
+
+One of the first acts of the restored Portuguese government was to make
+a ten years' truce with the Seven United States. But this did not
+prevent the continuance of hostilities in Brazil, and the other foreign
+possessions of Portugal. Serigipe was surprised, Maranham conquered, and
+Loanda in Angola and St. Thomas's taken.
+
+Notwithstanding these successes, the Dutch government disapproved of
+Count Maurice's administration. Instead of sending home either to the
+States or the Company all the money and produce which he had gained in
+Brazil, he had laid out great part of it, as well as of his private
+fortune, in fortifying the mouths of rivers and harbours, particularly
+Recife, in repairing and beautifying the towns, and in other public
+works, which, looking forward to the permanent establishment of the
+Dutch in the country, he considered as absolutely necessary. He was
+accordingly recalled, and returned to Holland in 1644.
+
+After the departure of Maurice the tyranny of the Dutch became so
+intolerable, that the Portuguese began to rise against it almost
+universally.
+
+Maranham had already been wrested from their hands at the time of his
+returning, and that event seemed to be the signal for the long and
+calamitous struggle that ensued in Pernambuco and the neighbouring
+Captaincies. Joam Fernandes Vieyra, a native of Madeira, had, at a very
+early age, left his native island in hopes of bettering his fortune in
+Brazil. He had succeeded, and at the time we speak of, he was one of the
+richest Portuguese of Pernambuco, and highly esteemed by both his
+countrymen and the Dutch. Against the latter, however, he was animated
+both by patriotism and superstition. They oppressed his people, and they
+were heretics. After waiting for years for a proper opportunity to
+attempt their destruction, he seized the first months of Nassau's
+absence, and communicating his plans to none but to two friends, one of
+whom he commissioned to apply to the government of Bahia in person for
+succour, he waited patiently for an answer. This man, André Vidal de
+Negreiros, executed his commission exactly, and shortly afterwards
+Antonio Diaz Cardozo, and sixty soldiers, were sent to Vieyra. He
+concealed them in the woods in the neighbourhood of his dwelling, called
+the Varzea, which was on the plain to the westward of the city, and then
+summoned the Indian chief Camaram and the Negro chief Henrique Diaz[16],
+to his assistance, and communicated his designs to his neighbours.
+
+[Note 16: The following is an extract from one of the letters of
+this Creole Negro: "Faltamos a obediença, que nos occupava no certam de
+Bahia, por naõ faltarémos as obrigaçoens da patria; respeitando primeiro
+as leys da natureza, que as do imperio."
+
+_Castrioto Lusitano_.]
+
+Early in 1645 the war began in earnest. The most shocking atrocities
+were committed by both parties, especially towards the Indians, who
+themselves as they were the most faithful allies, were also the most
+inveterate and cruel enemies. In the course of the struggle, which
+lasted until 1654, several leaders on both sides were slain, but none so
+remarkable as the Indian Camaram. He had been educated by the Jesuits;
+he understood Latin, wrote, read, and spoke Portuguese perfectly, but on
+all occasions of ceremony used an interpreter, that he might not in
+public do any thing imperfectly, and thereby derogate from the dignity
+of his chieftainship. When a number of Indians were taken among the
+Dutch, at one of the strong posts of the latter, a relation of Camaram's
+was found among them. These men had all been condemned to death. Camaram
+did not intercede for the life of his kinsman, but he saved his honour:
+he slew him with his own hand, and buried him decently. The rest were
+hanged by the common executioner, and left for the fowls of the air.
+
+At length this horrible warfare was ended. The two battles of the
+Gararapes[17], had decided the fate of the Dutch in Brazil: but it was
+the co-operation of the fleet of the new Brazilian company that enabled
+Vieyra, who was the real commander in this war, although several
+military men of reputation, had, from time to time, had the nominal
+chieftainship, to reduce Recife, and on the 23d of January 1654, to
+present the keys of the city to the Royal Commander Francisco Beretto,
+and to restore to the crown of Portugal the empire of Brazil, after nine
+years of the most cruel war, during which the private fortune, and the
+determined spirit of individuals had sustained the conflict, generally
+without the aid, and often in direct opposition to the commands of the
+court. But men once determined on freedom, or on national independence,
+must in the end overcome all obstacles and vanquish every difficulty.
+
+[Note 17:
+
+Ves Agros Gararapes, entre a negra,
+Nuvem de Marte horrendo
+Qual Jupiter em flegra,
+Hollanda o vistes fulminar tremendo.--DINEZ.
+
+The Portuguese reader will do well to read the whole of Diniz's fine ode
+to Vieyra, as well as that to Mem de Sa, on his conquests at Rio de
+Janeiro. This writer is one of the best of the Arcadian school.--But he
+wrote on subjects of a minor interest, while Guidi wrote to the
+"d'Arcadia fortunate Genti"--of the Eternal city, where every civilised
+being feels he has an interest.]
+
+While these things were going on in the northern provinces, the Jesuits
+had formed their singular establishments in Paraguay, and endeavoured to
+stop, or at least limit the slave hunting of the Portuguese in the
+interior, though without effect. The best part of the colony of St.
+Vincent's had been removed to St. Paul's, a settlement on the plain of
+Piratininga, and had flourished surprisingly. The people had become
+hardy, if not fierce. They had distinguished themselves by the courage
+and perseverance with which they had explored the country in search of
+mines, and the activity with which they had brought in slaves for the
+new settlements. The consciousness of their strength begot in them a
+longing for independence, and seizing the opportunity of the accession
+of the House of Braganza to the throne of Portugal, they attempted to
+set up a king for themselves. Their attempt was baffled by Amador Bueno
+de Ribiero, the very person they intended for their monarch, who, when
+the people shouted "Long live king Amador," cried out "Long live Joam
+IV." and, being swift of foot, ran and took refuge in the Benedictine
+convent; and the same day, as there was no alternative, Joam IV. was
+proclaimed by all the people.
+
+The low state to which Portugal was now reduced, was seen in its effects
+on the government of Brazil. When the appointed Governors, either on
+their own judgment, or in obedience to the orders of the court of
+Lisbon, attempted to carry any new measure into execution which the
+people disliked, it was seldom in their power to enforce it, and they
+could expect little assistance from home. The Jesuits had undertaken the
+defence of the Indians, and endeavoured by every means to restrain the
+practice of making slaves of them, and to mitigate the lot of such as
+were already enslaved. But the Franciscans and some other orders derived
+equal pecuniary benefit with the hunters from the sale of slaves, and
+therefore they opposed them with vehemence. Interest was on the side of
+the Friars, and the most disgraceful scenes took place in various
+captaincies between the parties, the Governors being either not able or
+not willing to interfere with effect.
+
+Meantime, however, the people became accustomed to canvass and to
+understand public questions; their governors began to respect them as a
+real part of the estate; and a value for independence, and a feeling
+that to attain it was in their own power, grew out of these disorders.
+
+Had it been possible to have purified their religion from some of its
+most superstitious observances, and to reform the moral habits of the
+people, the prosperity of the country would soon have been equal to its
+means; but wherever slavery is established it brings a twofold curse
+with it. It degrades both parties even where the slaves are imported.
+How much more then, as was the case here, when they were hunted on their
+own grounds, where all the details, disgusting and iniquitous as they
+are, of the seeking, capturing, and bending to the yoke, pass under the
+eye till the heart grows callous to the cry of the orphan, the grief of
+the widow, and the despair of the parent in being torn from whatever has
+been dear to them?
+
+The history of the Jesuit Vieyra's mission to Maranham is as humiliating
+to human nature, as his sincere exertions in the cause of the suffering
+Indians is creditable to himself; but neither his exertions, nor the
+royal authority, could baffle the selfish cruelty and avarice of the
+people of that captaincy; they broke out into open rebellion in defence
+of their detestable practices, and even when they returned to obedience,
+there was a compromise between humanity and avarice, to which the
+Indians were again sacrificed.
+
+Rio de Janeiro had enjoyed a greater degree of tranquillity during the
+eighty years since its foundation than any other settlement, and its
+trade had increased together with its population; but the southern part
+of its jurisdiction was little more peaceable than Maranham, and not at
+all more inclined to listen to the remonstrances of the friends of the
+Indians. The Paulistas were the most difficult of all to manage; they
+had been the most active and daring of all that hunted either for slaves
+or for mines, and they were not willing to participate with others, far
+less to resign the advantages they had gained by unwearied labour and
+great sacrifices. Their conduct on the restoration of Portugal had
+evinced a desire of more than the freedom of a colony, and their
+neighbours were little less disposed for independence than themselves.
+Santos, and even Rio, had joined them, and had shewn a disposition to
+depose the governor appointed by the crown; and nothing but the
+unimpeachable character and firm conduct of Salvador Correa de Sa e
+Benevides (1658) prevented him from falling a sacrifice to that
+disposition. Bahia continued to be the capital of the Brazilian states,
+and its inhabitants proceeded to beautify it with churches, and
+convents, and nunneries, while they defied the spirit of Christianity by
+the importation of African, as well as the kidnapping Indian slaves.
+Pernambuco was still undergoing the miserable effects of the long and
+desultory war it had sustained; all the bands of government had been
+loosed during that disastrous period; law and justice had fallen into
+disuse; and had there not been a redeeming virtue in the free spirit
+that lived on in spite of the evils among which it had sprung, its very
+emancipation from a foreign power might have been regretted. The negroes
+who had escaped to the Palmares, and whose depredations had been
+disregarded in comparison with the evils of a foreign government, had
+become a real source of ill to the Pernambucans. Although they
+cultivated maize, and mandioc, and plaintains, they wanted every other
+supply. They therefore robbed the Creoles of their cattle, their sugar,
+their manufactured goods, and even of their Mulatto daughters and female
+slaves; till at length the government resolved to free the country of
+them, and called in the aid of a Paulista regiment for the purpose. Ten
+thousand of the negroes bearing arms had assembled in their chief city,
+which was surrounded by wooden walls, leaving the lesser ones
+uninhabited. But their enemies had the advantage of cannon against them,
+and of supplies of every kind; yet once the negroes beat off their
+assailants. But numbers overpowered them, and being weakened by famine,
+their city was forced, and the inmates seized as slaves. Zombi, however,
+and the most resolute of his followers, threw themselves from a high
+rock when they perceived their condition desperate. The Portuguese
+abused their victory, and murdered the rest.
+
+But there was an evil that affected Brazil generally--the too much and
+the too little power of the governors. They had too much power, if any
+appeal lay from them--too little, if they were absolute for the term of
+their government. They were also virtually free from responsibility;
+their opportunities, nay, their temptations to extortion were almost
+irresistible; and, to crown all, the corrupt administration of the laws
+kept pace with the vices and the irregularity of the government. In vain
+had the wisest regulations been made, and the most just decrees issued.
+The judges were in many cases parties concerned; they were so in all
+cases where Indians and negroes were the objects of their judgment, for
+they were possessors of both. Their salaries were insufficient, their
+fees arbitrary. What wonder then if the administration was corrupt!
+
+The cultivation of sugar and cotton had proceeded silently amidst all
+this confusion. The discovery of the gold and diamond mines assisted the
+government, both in Brazil and in the mother country, to make a stand in
+the midst of the eminent peril which threatened, in consequence of the
+losses sustained in the east, while at home there was a scanty and
+impoverished population, ruined manufactures, and, above all, a neglect
+of agriculture, that rendered Portugal dependent on foreigners for corn.
+Every thing was wanted; there was nothing to return; and at the
+beginning of the eighteenth century, Brazil may be truly said to have
+saved Portugal, by covering with her precious metals the excessive
+balance that was against her in every branch of commerce, in every
+department of government.
+
+Yet, though absolute ruin was averted, the weakness of the crown
+rendered it impossible to defend its foreign possessions from the
+attacks of a daring enemy. In 1710, a French squadron, under Duclerc,
+appeared off Rio de Janeiro, but not daring to pass the forts, sailed
+on, and after making several attempts to land a force at the different
+inlets, where he was deterred by the appearance of the militia of the
+country, succeeded at Guaratiba, between thirty and forty miles from
+the city, and thence he marched upon it with about one thousand marines.
+The governor, Francisco Castro de Moraes, made no attempt to stop him
+until his arrival at the city. There the first check the enemy met was
+from F. Francisco de Menezes, a Trinitarian friar, who appeared every
+where, and did what the governor, who remained quietly intrenched in a
+flat space, where the place of the Rosario now is, between two hills,
+ought to have done. The French having divided, one party attacked the
+palace, but the students of the college defended it successfully; and
+after a short, but desperate struggle, the French were overpowered, and
+the victory disgraced by the inhuman conduct of the Portuguese. Duclerc
+and his people were imprisoned and harshly treated. Duclerc himself is
+said to have been murdered in his bed.
+
+The next year drew on Rio de Janeiro a signal punishment for these
+proceedings. The famous Duguay Trouin undertook to inflict it; and
+accordingly, in August, 1711, one year after Duclerc's adventure, he
+arrived off the coast, and taking advantage of a fog, entered the bay,
+notwithstanding the fire of the forts.
+
+The Portuguese government had notice of his design, and had sent out
+stores and ammunition to meet the attack, and had appointed Gasper da
+Costa commander of the troops. But the sudden appearance of the French
+actually within the harbour, seems to have palsied the understanding of
+every person on shore, whose business it should have been to oppose
+them, and the forts and the city were given up almost without a
+struggle.
+
+It would, however, have been impossible for the French to maintain
+themselves in Rio; therefore Duguay Trouin, after refreshing his people,
+ransomed the city for 600,000 cruzadoes. Bad weather alone prevented him
+from laying waste the reconcave of Bahia, as he had done Rio: but he had
+fulfilled the ostensible purpose of his voyage by avenging the treatment
+of Duclerc and his people, and returned to France early in 1712.
+
+These circumstances had awakened the greatest anxiety on account of
+Brazil in the cabinet of Lisbon: and at the peace of Utrecht, 1713,
+every precaution was adopted by the Portuguese ministers to avoid any
+expression that might seem to admit of a free trade by any power
+whatever to Brazil, notwithstanding the agreements to that effect
+actually existing at the time. Disputes without end arose between
+Portugal and Spain concerning the colonies adjoining to the Rio de la
+Plata, and it was especially stipulated that no other power,
+particularly England, should be allowed to form settlements there on
+account of the facilities such settlements might afford for smuggling
+the precious metals out of the country. These had now become the first
+object in Brazil. St. Paul's had been erected into a city, and the
+district of the mines had been formed into a captaincy: the inhabitants
+of the coast flocked to the interior, where new towns were daily
+springing up; all were desirous of a share in that lottery where the
+prizes were so enormous, that the great preponderance of blanks was
+overlooked. Great inconvenience must have been felt by the early
+adventurers to the mines: for so many hands were employed in searching
+for gold, that few remained to cultivate the soil, and provide the
+necessaries of life. Yet that insatiable thirst of gold is a stimulus
+which has led to useful and to honourable things: it is not the love of
+the metal, but the possession of it gives power, and that is the real
+object of most men's ambition: it is certainly that of the ambition of
+all nations, and this object is held legitimate: we account those base
+or wicked who seek the means; we admire those who attain the end. The
+philosophic historian and the poet are alike ready to condemn the man
+who first dug the ore from the mine: the panegyric in prose and in verse
+is lavished on the hero and the patron. But gold furnished the means for
+the hero's conquests and the patron's liberality, and gold, or the worth
+of gold, is the object of both; whether in the form of continued power,
+or of that fame which patronage can bring. Sad indeed has been the waste
+of human life in searching for gold: but have all the mines together
+consumed more men than the single revolutionary war? And have not the
+religious contests among Christians, and their persecutions and
+mutilations and burnings cost many more? I would not justify the gold
+finders; their actions were horrible, their oppressions atrocious; but
+let them have justice: the stimulus was great; urged on by it, they
+performed great things, they braved cold, and hunger, and fatigue, and
+persecution, and death; they persevered, they opened the way to unknown
+lands, they laid the foundations for future civilisation in countries
+which will have reason to bless their discoveries, when the effect of
+their evil deeds, as well as the memory of the brutal customs of the
+savages they so unjustly oppressed, shall have passed away.
+
+But I have neither space nor inclination to follow their adventures, and
+must refer to Mr. Southey's elaborate and excellent account of them.
+Daniel Defoe alone could have so handled the subject as to make
+delightful so dull and so sad a tale. I am but a looker on to whom the
+actions of the present are more interesting than the past, but yet am
+not insensible to the influence that the elder days have had upon us.
+
+Pernambuco had during the half century which had elapsed since the
+expulsion of the Dutch had time to recruit. The sugar plantations had
+reappeared, and the commerce of Recife had become extremely important.
+The merchants, and especially those from Europe, had settled there, and
+the town had increased till it became the second of Brazil; while Olinda
+gradually declined, having few inhabitants besides priests and the
+representatives of the old families of the province, who might be called
+its nobility: still Recife was but a village until, in 1710, it
+solicited and obtained the royal assent to its becoming a town, and
+having a camera or municipal council to govern its internal affairs. The
+jealousy of the people of Olinda and the other old Brazilians was
+violently excited by this concession, which they conceived would raise
+the plebeian traders and foreigners to an equality with themselves.
+After several tumultuous meetings on the subject, three of the ten
+parishes belonging to Olinda were assigned to Recife, and the governor,
+fearing to set up the pillar which marks a township openly, had it
+erected in the night. Fresh disturbances ensued, in which some of the
+magistrates were concerned, and there were not wanting voices to exclaim
+that the Pernambucans had shown they could shake off the strong chains
+of the Dutch, and that they could as easily shake off others and govern
+themselves. The seditious magistrates were arrested and thrown into
+prison. The soldiers were employed to disarm the people; but they had
+now advanced too far to be easily reduced. The governor was fired at and
+dangerously wounded, and proofs were not wanting that the judge and the
+bishop had at least consented to the attempt on his life. The most
+serious disturbances followed: the inhabitants of the whole district
+took up arms, some blood was shed in the course of their contentions
+with the soldiers, and Sebastian de Castro, the governor, weakened both
+in body and mind, was induced to fly to Bahia for safety. Six of the
+chief Pernambucans were now appointed to exercise the functions of a
+provisional government till orders should be received from Lisbon, and
+all Europeans were deprived of their offices and commissions.
+
+But the bishop, who had been at Paraiba since the time when De Castro
+was wounded, now returned to claim his office as governor on the removal
+of the former one. He began to exercise his authority in the king's
+name, and his first act was to declare a general pardon. But he, however
+appears to have been a timid man: willing yet not daring to join the
+party who wished to shake off the yoke of Portugal, and by his
+vacillating conduct betraying both his friends in that party, and the
+trust reposed in him by the crown. At length, in 1711, these
+disturbances were quieted by a new governor, Felix Jose Machado de
+Mendonça. Brazil was not yet ripe for independence; nor indeed could so
+small and ill-peopled a state as Pernambuco have maintained its freedom
+even for a year unconnected with the other captaincies. While these
+things were going on in the captaincies of Brazil, the Jesuits were
+labouring in the interior to reclaim the Indians, with success far
+beyond the apparent means, and some towns, which have since become of
+importance, were built on the coast and on the shores of the Plata,
+particularly Monte Video, in 1733; but the border war, between the
+Spaniards and Portuguese, which was waged on account of these
+settlements, disquieted the neighbourhood for a time. Its importance,
+however, was soon forgotten in the disturbances caused by the treaty of
+division between Spain and Portugal, which forcing the Indians who had
+been reclaimed to emigrate, roused them to a vigorous but short and
+useless resistance, which only began the evils that the Jesuit missions
+were destined to perish under.
+
+The Portuguese government, under the administration of Carvalho,
+afterwards Marquis of Pombal, had begun to attend to, and attempt to
+reform the abuses which existed throughout Brazil, but particularly in
+the newly founded captaincies and settlements, when the war with France
+and Spain broke out in 1762. For a time defence against a foreign enemy
+superseded every other consideration. The first act of hostility in the
+western world was the seizing of the Portuguese settlement of Columbia,
+in the Plata, by the governor of Buenos Ayres, before the squadron
+despatched by the governor of Brazil, Gomez Freyre, could arrive to
+protect it. That squadron consisted of the Lord Clive, of 64 guns, an
+English ship commanded by Capt. Macnamara; the Ambuscade, of 40 guns, in
+which Penrose, the poet, served as lieutenant; and the Gloria, of 38
+guns. The Spanish ships retired before Macnamara, and he ran under the
+guns of the forts of Colonia, in order to retake the place. He had
+nearly succeeded in silencing the batteries, when, by accident or
+negligence, the ship took fire; the enemy renewed their fire;
+three-fourths of the crew of the Lord Clive, among which was the
+captain, were drowned. The other ships were nearly destroyed and obliged
+to retreat; but owing to the neglect of the Spaniards, they were able to
+refit and return to Rio. And this was the most remarkable action of the
+war beyond the Atlantic, and the first in which the English
+distinguished themselves in the defence of Brazil.
+
+Pombal, meantime, having resolved on the suppression of the order of
+Jesuits, overlooked, in the ardour with which he pursued that measure,
+the important services they had rendered, and were daily rendering, to
+one of his favourite objects, namely, the improvement of the condition
+of the Indians. Their plan of discipline, indeed, hitherto had kept
+their pupils rather in a state of childish innocence than of manly
+improvement. Their fault was, that in order to secure obedience, they
+had stopped short of what they might have effected. Their dominion was
+an Utopia; and had it been possible to shut out every European and every
+wild Indian, it might have lasted. But such artificial polities can
+never be of long duration. Some convulsions either from without or from
+within must end them, and that with a more complete ruin than could
+befal states less curiously framed. But the well-intentioned labours of
+the missionaries had produced one decided good effect,--the habits of
+savage life were abandoned, and the advantages of agriculture and
+manufactures had been felt. The rock on which the education of the
+Indians split, was the community of goods. When a man has no property,
+but depends for the supply of his daily wants upon the providence of
+others, he has no incitement to particular exertion. The stimulus to
+industry cannot exist where a man has no hope of growing richer, no fear
+of becoming poorer, no anxiety about the provision of his family. His
+judgment in the portioning and disposing of his property is never called
+forth; all the qualities and virtues that arise out of the practice of
+domestic economy lie dormant, and the man remains an infant. It would
+have been easy to remedy this, by allowing the Indians to possess
+private stock, and to provide for their own families after the first
+generation. The newly reclaimed did require to be provided for, but the
+children growing up in the Aldeas might have been intrusted with their
+own property. They would have become men; and when the removal of their
+spiritual fathers took place, that wide and deep desolation would not
+have overwhelmed them, nor would Paraguay have gone back as it has done
+towards a savage state.
+
+The Jesuits of Brazil were expelled in 1760, in the most cruel and
+arbitrary manner. Those of the Spanish American colonies eight years
+later. Whatever might have been their faults, or even their crimes, in
+other countries, in these their conduct had been exemplary. They had
+been the protectors of a persecuted race, the advocates of mercy, the
+founders of civilisation; and their patience under their unmerited
+sufferings forms not the least honourable trait in their character.
+
+The history of Brazil, for the next thirty years, is composed of the
+mismanagement and decay of the Jesuit establishments; the enlargement of
+the mining districts, particularly in the direction of Mato Grosso; some
+disputes with the French on the frontier of Cayenne; and the more
+peaceful occupations of opening roads, and the introduction of new
+branches of commerce, and the improvement of the old.
+
+This tranquillity was for a moment interrupted by a conspiracy in the
+province of Minas Geraes, headed by an officer named Joaquim Jose de
+Silva Xavier, commonly called Tiradentes. The project of the
+conspirators was to form an independent republic in Minas, and, if
+possible, to induce Rio de Janeiro to unite with it. But their measures
+were most inadequate for the end proposed, and their conduct so
+imprudent, that, although there was a pretty general feeling of
+discontent on account of the taxes and some other grievances, the
+conspirators were all seized before they had formed anything like a
+party capable of resistance, much less of beginning the meditated
+revolution.
+
+The direct effects upon Brazil of the first thirteen years of the
+revolutionary war in Europe were confined to some slight disputes
+regarding the boundaries of the Portuguese and French Guiana, and
+concerning the limits of which, there was an article in Lord
+Cornwallis's negotiations with France, or rather the peace of Amiens in
+1802.
+
+The indirect effects were greater. Being a good deal left to themselves,
+the colonists had leisure to discover what sort of cultivation and crops
+suited best with the climate, and were fittest for the market; and some
+branches of industry were introduced, and others improved, to the great
+advantage of the province. Foreign ships, and even fleets, had also
+begun to resort thither[18]: so that, though the ports had as yet been
+closed against foreign traders, the entrance of men of war, and such
+merchant ships as could find no others to refit in, introduced a virtual
+freedom, which it would afterwards have been impossible not to have
+confirmed.
+
+[Note 18: That under Sir H. Popham, on Sir D. Baird's expedition to
+the Cape of Good Hope, for instance, in 1805, and that of the French
+admiral, Guillaumez, in 1806.]
+
+The court of Portugal meanwhile, as if infatuated by the negotiations of
+France, consented to buy a disgraceful neutrality at the price of
+1,000,000 of livres or 40,000_l._ per month, besides granting free
+entrance to French woollens into the kingdom.
+
+It was in vain that frequent representations were made to the ministry
+at Lisbon on the subject; that the armament at Bayonne, and the refusal
+of Spain to forbid the passage of French troops through her territories,
+were pointed out. The Portuguese forces were marched to the sea-coast,
+as if they apprehended an invasion from England; thus leaving the
+kingdom defenceless on the land side, and the ports were shut against
+English commerce, by a proclamation, dated 20th October, 1807. But the
+importance of Portugal to England, as neutral ground, or, in the event
+of a French government in Spain, as a point whence to attack the great
+enemy, was such, that the resentment which at another time would
+certainly have been openly declared, was suppressed; but a strong
+squadron was always kept up off the coast, partly to watch the
+proceedings on shore, partly to prevent the Portuguese vessels from
+coming out of port, and joining the French and Spaniards.
+
+While this system of watchfulness was kept up in Europe, the English
+ministry was not less attentive to the designs of France on the South
+American colonies. As long as Spain and Portugal continued to pay the
+enormous price in money for their neutrality, which France had demanded,
+the views of Napoleon were better answered than they could have been by
+the possession of all their territory and all their colonies. But the
+moment in which they should become unable or unwilling to pay that
+price, would of course be that of aggression and invasion. So early as
+1796, Mr. Pitt had contemplated the advantages that must arise to
+Britain from the possession of a port in South America, and particularly
+in the Rio de la Plata, nor did he ever afterwards lose sight of it.
+Some circumstances occurred in December, 1804, to draw his attention,
+particularly towards the subject, inasmuch as he had intelligence that
+France was about to attempt to seize on one of the Spanish settlements
+on the first opportunity. But we were then at peace with Spain, and
+however willing to prevent such an aggression on the part of France, and
+to assist General Miranda in his intended expedition to South America,
+it was impossible to co-operate with him, as he earnestly pressed the
+ministry to do, although the advantage to England of securing such a
+market for her manufactures was clearly perceived. Among the officers
+who had been most confidentially consulted by Mr. Pitt, on the
+practicability of obtaining a settlement on the La Plata, was Sir Home
+Popham; and it was probably his knowledge of the views so long
+entertained by that minister, that induced him to take the hazardous
+step, of leaving the Cape of Good Hope so soon after it had been
+occupied by the English forces, in 1806, and taking Buenos Ayres without
+orders to that effect. His immediate motive was, the intelligence he had
+procured, that the squadron of the French admiral, Guillaumez, had
+intentions of touching on the coast of Brazil, entering the La Plata,
+and, if possible, seizing, or forming a settlement there; and some North
+Americans whom he had met, encouraged the undertaking, by observing,
+that to throw open the ports of South America would be a common benefit
+to all commercial nations, but particularly to England.[19]
+
+[Note 19: For the political and commercial views entertained with
+regard to the assisting Miranda, or obtaining for England a port in
+South America, see Lord Melville's evidence on the court martial on Sir
+Home Popham.]
+
+In 1806, the demonstrations of hostilities against Portugal on the part
+of France were so evident, that Lord Rosslyn was despatched thither on a
+special mission, in which Lord St. Vincent and General Simcoe were
+joined with him. His instructions from Mr. Fox, then prime minister,
+were to lay before the ministry of Lisbon, the imminent danger which
+threatened the country, and to offer assistance in men, money, and
+stores from England, to put Portugal in a state of defence, in case the
+government should decide on a vigorous and effective resistance. If, on
+the other hand, Portugal should think itself too weak to contend with
+France, the idea that had once occurred to King Don Alfonso of
+emigrating to Brazil, and there establishing the capital of the empire,
+was to be revived, and promises made of assistance and protection for
+that purpose. If, however, Portugal insisted on rejecting assistance in
+either case, the troops under General Simcoe were to be landed, the
+strong forts on the Tagus occupied by them, and the fleet was to enter
+the river and secure the Portuguese ships and vessels, taking care to
+impress the government and people with the feeling that this was done
+from regard to the nation, and by no means for the sake of selfish
+aggrandisement on the part of England. It appears, however, that the
+French preparations for the invasion were not at that time so far
+advanced as had been imagined, and at the earnest entreaty of the court
+of Lisbon, the troops and the fleet were withdrawn from the Tagus.
+
+On the 8th of August, the next year, however, (1807) Mr. Rayneval, the
+French chargé d'affaires at Lisbon, received orders from his court to
+declare to the Prince Regent of Portugal, that if by the first of
+September he did not declare war against England, and send back the
+English minister, recalling the Portuguese ambassador from London, and
+did not seize all the English residents, confiscate their property, and
+shut the ports of the kingdom against the English; and lastly, if he did
+not, without delay, unite his armies and fleets with those of the rest
+of the continent against England, he had orders to demand his passports
+and to declare war.
+
+The Conde de Barca, then prime minister, was certainly aware of the
+preparations of the French government. But with that obstinate blindness
+which sometimes seems to possess men like a fate, he persisted in
+regarding them only as measures to intimidate and harass England. This
+nobleman had been ambassador at the court of St. Petersburg, and on his
+recall to take the first place in the cabinet at Lisbon, he was ordered
+to go by sea to London, and thence to Portugal, but he chose to perform
+the journey by way of Paris, where he saw and conversed both with
+Napoleon and Talleyrand. There cannot be the least doubt but that he was
+duped by those able men. Many considered him as a traitor. But the
+vanity of the Conde, who always said he had gone to judge of these men
+by his own eyes, though it makes him weaker, makes him less wicked, and
+was, perhaps, the true spring of his actions. He it was who carried the
+measures for the detention of the English, the confiscation of their
+property, and the shutting the ports against English commerce: adopting,
+in short, the whole of the continental system. The very day before Junot
+was to reach Lisbon, however, a Paris newspaper, written in anticipation
+of the event, announced that "_The House of Braganza no longer
+reigned_," and that its members were reduced to the common herd of
+ex-princes, &c., giving no very favourable description of them, and
+holding out no very flattering expectations for the future. This
+completely opened the Prince Regent's eyes, and he consented to that
+step, which D. John IV. and Don José had contemplated, namely, the
+transferring the seat of his empire to his Transatlantic possessions.
+
+This was in the month of November, 1807, but the events of that month,
+the most interesting that had occurred to Portugal since the revolution
+that had placed Braganza on the throne of his ancestors, will be best
+understood by the following extracts from the despatches received by the
+British ministry from Lord Strangford and from Sir Sydney Smith at the
+time. On the 29th November, 1807, His Lordship writes, after mentioning
+the Prince's departure for Brazil:--
+
+"I had frequently and distinctly stated to the cabinet of Lisbon, that
+in agreeing not to resent the exclusion of British commerce from the
+ports of Portugal, His Majesty had exhausted the means of forbearance;
+that in making that concession to the peculiar circumstances of the
+Prince Regent's situation, His Majesty had done all that friendship and
+the remembrance of ancient alliance could justly require; but that a
+single step beyond the line of modified hostility, thus most
+reluctantly consented to, must necessarily lead to the extremity of
+actual war.
+
+"The Prince Regent, however, suffered himself for a moment to forget
+that, in the present state of Europe, no country could be permitted to
+be an enemy to England with impunity, and that however much His Majesty
+might be disposed to make allowance for the deficiency of means
+possessed by Portugal of resistance to the power of France, neither his
+own dignity nor the interests of his people would permit His Majesty to
+accept that excuse for a compliance with the full extent of her
+unprincipled demands. On the 8th inst. His Royal Highness was induced to
+sign an order for the detention of the few British subjects, and of the
+inconsiderable portion of British property which yet remained at Lisbon.
+On the publication of this order, I caused the arms of England to be
+removed from the gates of my residence, demanded my passports, presented
+a final remonstrance against the recent conduct of the court of Lisbon,
+and proceeded to the squadron commanded by Sir Sydney Smith, which
+arrived off the coast of Portugal some days after I had received my
+passports, and which I joined on the 17th inst.
+
+"I immediately suggested to Sir Sydney Smith the expediency of
+establishing the most rigorous blockade at the mouth of the Tagus; and I
+had the high satisfaction of afterwards finding that I had thus
+anticipated the intentions of His Majesty: for despatches (which I
+received on the 23d) directing me to authorise that measure, in case the
+Portuguese government should pass the bounds which His Majesty had
+thought fit to set to his forbearance, and attempt to take any further
+step injurious to the honour or interests of Great Britain."--
+
+----"I resolved, therefore, to proceed forthwith to ascertain the effect
+produced by the blockade of Lisbon, and to propose to the Portuguese
+government, as the only condition upon which that blockade should cease,
+the alternative (stated by you) either of surrendering the fleet to His
+Majesty, or of immediately employing it to remove the Prince Regent and
+his family to the Brazils."--
+
+"I accordingly requested an audience of the Prince Regent, together with
+due assurances of protection and security; and upon receiving His Royal
+Highness's answers I proceeded to Lisbon on the 27th, in His Majesty's
+sloop Confiance, bearing a flag of truce. I had immediately most
+interesting communications with the court of Lisbon, the particulars of
+which shall be detailed in a future despatch. It suffices to mention in
+this place, that the Prince Regent wisely directed all his apprehensions
+to a French army, and all his hopes to a British fleet: that he received
+the most explicit assurances from me that His Majesty would generously
+overlook those acts of unwilling and momentary hostility to which His
+Royal Highness's consent had been extorted; and that I promised to His
+Royal Highness, on the faith of my sovereign, that the British squadron
+before the Tagus should be employed to protect his retreat from Lisbon,
+and his voyage to the Brazils.
+
+"A decree was published yesterday, in which the Prince Regent announced
+his intention of retiring to the city of Rio de Janeiro until the
+conclusion of a general peace, and of appointing a regency to transact
+the administration of government at Lisbon, during His Royal Highness's
+absence from Europe."
+
+Sir Sydney Smith writes on the first of December the following letter to
+the admiralty:--
+
+His Majesty's Ship Hibernia, 22 leagues west of the Tagus, Dec. 1, 1807.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"In a former despatch, dated 22d November, with a postscript of the
+26th, I conveyed to you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty, the proofs contained in various documents of the
+Portuguese government, being so much influenced by terror of the French
+arms as to have acquiesced to certain demands of France operating
+against Great Britain. The distribution of the Portuguese force was made
+wholly on the coast, while the land side was left totally unguarded.
+British subjects of all descriptions were detained; and it therefore
+became necessary to inform the "Portuguese government, that the case
+had arisen, which required, in obedience to my instructions, that I
+should declare the Tagus in a state of blockade."
+
+(_Sir Sydney then repeats part of Lord Strangford's despatch._)
+
+"On the morning of the 29th, the Portuguese fleet came out of the Tagus
+with His Royal Highness the Prince of Brazil, and the whole of the royal
+family of Braganza on board, together with many of his faithful
+councillors and adherents, as well as other persons attached to his
+present fortunes.
+
+"This fleet of eight sail of the line, four frigates, two brigs, and one
+schooner[20], with a crowd of large armed merchant ships arranged itself
+under the protection of that of His Majesty, while the firing of a
+reciprocal salute of twenty-one guns announced the friendly meeting of
+those, who but the day before were on terms of hostility, the scene
+impressing every beholder (except the French army on the hills) with the
+most lively emotions of gratitude to Providence, that there yet existed
+a power in the world able, as well as willing, to protect the
+oppressed.--I have, &c.
+
+"W. SYDNEY SMITH."
+
+[Note 20: _List of the Portuguese Fleet that came out of the Tagus
+on the 29th of November, 1807._
+
+                    Guns.   Commanded by
+
+Principe Real        84,    Adm. Manoel da Cunha.
+                                 Capt. Manoel da Canto.
+
+Rainha de Portugal   74,    Capt. Francisco Manoel Soetomayor.
+                           _The Princess Dowager and younger daughters
+                            came in this ship._
+
+Conde Henrique       74,    Capt. Jose Maria de Almeida.
+
+Medusa               74,    Capt. Henrique de Souza Prego.
+
+Affonso d'Abuquerque 64,    Capt Ignacio da Costa Quinatella.
+                                 _The Queen and family in this ship._
+
+D. Joam de Castro    64,    Capt. Don Manoel Juan Souça.
+
+Principe do Brazil   74,    Capt. Garçaŏ.
+
+Martim de Freitas    64,    Capt. Don Manoel Menezes.
+
+
+FRIGATES.
+
+Minerva              44,    Capt. Rodrigo Lobo.
+
+Golfinho             36,    Capt. Luiz d'Acunha.
+
+Urania               32,    Capt. Tancos, Conde de Viana.
+
+Cherua Princesa S.S. 20,    Commanded by a lieutenant.
+
+
+BRIGS.
+
+Voador               22,     Lieut. Fs. Maximilian.
+Vingança             20,     Capt. Nicolas Kytten.
+Gaivota              22.
+
+
+SCHOONER.
+
+Curiosa              12,     _Hoisted French colours and deserted._
+
+Of these vessels, the _Martin Freitas_ is now the _Pedro Primero_. The
+_Principe Real_ is the receiving ship at Rio. The _Rainha de Portugal_
+is at Lisbon, as well as the Conde Henrique. The _Medusa_ is the sheer
+hulk at Rio. The three other line-of-battle ships either broke up or
+about to be so. Of the frigates, the Minerva was taken by the French in
+India. The Golfinho is broken up, and the _Urania_ was wrecked on the
+Cape de Verde Islands. The Voador is now a corvette. The Vingança is
+broke up, and the Gaivoto is now the Liberal.
+
+_List of the Ships that remained at Lisbon._
+
+                  Guns.
+
+S. Sebastao        64,     _Unserviceable without thorough repair._
+Maria Prima        74,     _Ordered for floating battery--not fitted._
+Vasco de Gama      74,[21] _Under repair, nearly ready._
+Princesa de Beira  64,     _Ordered for floating battery._
+
+FRIGATES.
+
+Fenix              48,     _In need of thorough repair_ (broke up at Bahia).
+Aamazona           44,     _Do. Do._ (Do. at Lisbon).
+Perola             44,     _Do. Do._ (Do. at Lisbon).
+Trítaõ             40,     _Past repair._
+Veney              30,     _Past repair._
+
+]
+
+[Note 21: Hulk at Rio.]
+
+Such are the public accounts transmitted by foreigners to their court of
+one of the most singular transactions that has occurred in the history
+of kingdoms and of courts. Yet such was the state of Europe at that
+time, so momentous the struggle between the principals in the mighty
+warfare that was going on, that the ancient house of Braganza left the
+seat of its ancestors, to seek shelter and security beyond the Atlantic,
+almost without notice and with less ceremony than had formerly attended
+an excursion to its country palaces.
+
+The French Government had waited to invade Portugal till that unhappy
+country had exhausted its treasury, in the payment of the enormous sums
+demanded as the price of its neutrality. French influence had removed
+the Portuguese troops from the mountain passes, where they might have
+opposed the entrance of French armies, and the Prince Regent only
+declared his adherence to the continental system, and arrested the
+English on the simultaneous entrance of three Imperial and Spanish
+armies.
+
+Junot invaded Algarve and passed the Zezere, at the same moment when
+Solano threw himself upon Oporto, and Carafa occupied Alentejo and
+Algarve.--Under these circumstances, the conduct of the ministry, though
+not courageous, was natural, and it was as natural when Lord Strangford
+returned to Lisbon, which, perhaps, he ought not to have left, that the
+last council held in that capital should decide on the emigration of the
+court to Brazil. Had it remained, and Portugal had become a French
+province, the Prince and all his family were prisoners in the hands of
+one who had respected no crown; and besides, England had intimated that
+in that case she must occupy Brazil for her own security. By emigrating
+to Brazil the Prince retained in his hands the largest and richest
+portion of his domains, and secured at least, the personal freedom and
+safety of his family. At the end therefore of the last meeting of his
+councillors the Prince called his confidential servants[22], and ordered
+them to prepare every thing _in secret_ for the embarkation of the court
+on the next night but one. One of these had been actually ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot, and on the next morning to have a breakfast
+ready for him at a house half-way between Sacavem and Lisbon. This man
+had smuggled his family on board one of the ships, he had been night and
+day getting provisions, plate, books, jewels, whatever could be moved on
+board the fleet, and, remaining to the last, was again ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot: but he was fortunate enough to secure a boat
+to carry him off to the fleet, leaving papers, money, and even his hat
+behind him on the beach.
+
+Such is the picture of the hasty embarkation, given by some of the
+attendants on the royal family.
+
+[Note 22: These were the Visconde de Rio Seco, who managed all; the
+Marquis de Vagos, gentleman of the bed-chamber; Conde de Redondo, who
+had the charge of the royal pantries; Manoel da Cunha, admiral of the
+fleet; the Padre José Eloi, who had the care of the valuables belonging
+to the patriarchal church.]
+
+The fleets had no sooner got off the land than they encountered a
+violent gale of wind, but by the 5th of December they were all collected
+again; on that day Sir Sidney Smith having supplied the ships with every
+thing necessary for their safety, and having convoyed them to lat. 37°
+47' north, and long. 14° 17' west, left them to go on under the
+protection of the Marlborough, Capt. Moore, with a broad pennant, the
+London, Monarch and Bedford.[23] They proceeded without farther accident
+to the coast of Brazil, and landed at Bahia on the 21st of January,
+1808.[24]
+
+[Note 23: On the removal of the family of Braganza to Brazil, Sir
+Samuel Hood and General Beresford took possession of Madeira, in trust
+for Portugal, till a restoration should take place.]
+
+[Note 24: The Rainha de Portugal, and the Conde Henrique with the
+Princess Dowager and the younger Princesses arrived straight at Rio, on
+the 15th of January. The Martim de Freitas and Golfinho arrived on the
+15th at Bahia for supplies, sailed for Rio on the 24th, and arrived on
+the 30th.]
+
+The Conde da Ponte was at that time governor of Bahia, and is said to
+have been very popular[25]: he had married a lady of high family who was
+not less so, and she possessed, besides the manners of the court, a
+considerable portion of both beauty and talent.
+
+[Note 25: The Conde died in May, 1809, at the age of 35, leaving ten
+children, and an embarrassed estate.]
+
+The reception of the royal party was rendered so agreeable to the Prince
+by the governor and his lady, that he remained at St. Salvador's a
+month, every day being a festival, and then left it with regret. In
+commemoration of the visit, a spot was cleared near the fortress of St.
+Peter's, and commanding a fine view over the whole of the beautiful bay,
+and there an obelisk was erected with an inscription, stating its
+purpose, and the surrounding ground was planted and converted into a
+public garden.
+
+But, however agreeable a residence at Bahia might have been to His Royal
+Highness, the place is too insecure for the purposes for which he
+emigrated. If it is besieged by sea, and the smallest land force gets
+possession of the neck of land between the Cape and Rio Vermelha, it is
+actually without the means of subsistence. The entrance of the bay is so
+wide, that nothing, can prevent ships from going in when they please.
+Whereas, the harbour of Rio is easily defended, it not being possible
+for ships to enter without being exposed to the fire of the forts.
+Besides, it has resources which Bahia has not, being at all times able
+to communicate with the rich province of the Minas, which, besides the
+metals, abounds in corn, mandioc, cotton, coffee, cattle, hogs, and even
+the coarse manufactures such as cotton, &c., for the use of the slaves
+and for ordinary purposes.
+
+Rio was therefore the best adapted for the asylum of the illustrious
+house of Braganza, and, on the 26th February, His Royal Highness sailed
+from Bahia, and arrived in Rio de Janeiro on the 7th March.
+
+Meantime the French troops had occupied Portugal, and Junot, who
+commanded in chief, and had fixed his head-quarters at Lisbon, began by
+disarming the inhabitants, and war between France and Portugal was
+formally announced, eight days before the signature of the treaty of
+Fontainbleau, by which Portugal was divided into three great feoffs,
+which, under the King of Etruria, the Prince of Peace Godoy, and a
+Braganza, if he would submit to the conditions[26], were to be subject
+to the crown of Spain.
+
+[Note 26: Godoy was to have Alentejo and Algarve; Etruria, Entre
+Minho e Douro with the city of Oporto, the rest was to be sequestrated
+till a general peace, when a Braganza was to be placed at its head, on
+condition that England should restore Gibraltar, Trinidad, &c. to
+Spain.]
+
+Junot published a proclamation flattering the people in proportion to
+his oppressions and exactions, and nearly ruined them by a forced war
+contribution of nearly 3,000,000_l._--In addition to this a conscription
+of 40,000 men was raised, and thus the means which Portugal possessed,
+and which, if timely used, might have saved her from invasion were
+turned against her.
+
+The first ministry appointed on the arrival of the court at Rio,
+consisted of Don Rodriguez de Souza Continho, Don Juan d'Almeida, the
+Visconde d'Anadia, and the Marquez d'Aguiar.
+
+The first measure of the court was to publish a manifesto, setting forth
+the conduct of France towards Portugal, from the beginning of the
+revolution; the efforts of the government to preserve its neutrality;
+and detailing all the events which had led immediately to the emigration
+of the royal family. The manifesto also denied having, as the French
+government alleged, given any succours to the English fleet or troops in
+their expedition to the River Plate; and it states, that the French
+government having broken faith with that of Portugal, His Royal Highness
+considered himself at war with France, and declared that he could only
+make peace by consent of, and in conjunction with, his old and faithful
+ally the king of England; and this was all the direct interference of
+the Prince in the affairs of his ancient European kingdom, where a junta
+of five persons was appointed to govern, and where, before the end of
+the year (1808), the battle of Vimiera had been fought, and the
+convention of Cintra had been signed.
+
+The first sensible effect of the arrival of the royal family in Brazil
+was the opening of its numerous ports[27]; and in the very first year
+(1808) ninety foreign ships entered the single harbour of Rio, and a
+proportional number, those of Maranham, Pernambuco, and Bahia. The
+effect of the residence of the court was soon felt in the city of Rio de
+Janeiro. It was before 1808 confined to little more than the ground it
+occupied when attacked by Duguay Trouen in 1712; and the beautiful bays
+above and below it, formed by the harbour, were unoccupied, except by a
+few fishermen, while the swamps and morasses which surrounded it
+rendered it filthy in the extreme. A spot near the church of San
+Francisco de Paulo had been cleared for a square, but scarcely a dozen
+houses had risen round it, and a muddy pond filled up the centre, into
+which the negroes were in the habit of throwing all the impurities from
+the neighbourhood. This was now filled up. On one side of the square a
+theatre was begun, not inferior to those of Europe in size and
+accommodation, and placed under the patronage of St. John; several
+magnificent houses rose in the immediate neighbourhood, the square was
+finished, and another and much larger laid out beyond it, on one side of
+the city, while on the other, between the foot of the mountain of the
+Corcovado, with its surrounding hills, and the sea, every station was
+occupied by delightful country-houses, and the beautiful bay of Boto
+Fogo, where there were before only fishermen and gipsies, soon became a
+populous and wealthy suburb.
+
+[Note 27: 28th January, 1808.]
+
+It is not in my power to give a detailed account of all the transactions
+of this important year. The trade had naturally rapidly increased; the
+money brought by the emigrants from Portugal, had called forth greater
+exertions and speculations in commerce; and in October a public bank was
+chartered in Rio, with a capital of from seventy to eighty thousand
+pounds sterling.
+
+The establishment of a regular gazette naturally took place, for the
+speedier dissemination of whatever tidings might arrive from Portugal,
+where lay the possessions and the interest of the court and the new
+people of Brazil; and though the press, of course, did not boast of much
+freedom, nor indeed would its freedom at that time have been of any
+consequence, it formed the first step towards awakening rational
+curiosity and that desire for reading, which has become not only a
+luxury, but even a necessary, in some countries, and which makes a rapid
+and daily progress here.
+
+On the arrival of the court many of the old Creole families hastened to
+the capital to greet their sovereigns. The sons and the daughters of
+these married into the noble houses of Portugal; the union of the two
+nations became intimate and permanent; and the manners and habits of the
+Brazilians more polished. With the artificial wants that sprung up, new
+industry was excited, especially near the capital; the woods and hills
+were cleared, the desert islands of the bay became thriving farms,
+gardens sprung up every where, and the delicate table vegetables of
+Europe and Africa were added to the native riches of the soil and
+climate.
+
+The numbers of the royal family furnished birth-days for frequent galas,
+the foreigners vied with the Portuguese in their feasts, so that Rio
+presented a scene of almost continued festivity. On the 17th of
+December, the birth-day of the queen, six counts were created, that is,
+Luiz de Vasconcellos e Souza was made Conde de Figuerio, Don Rodrigo de
+Souza Continho, Conde de Linhares, the Visconde d'Anadia, Conde
+d'Anadia, D. Joao d'Almeida de Mello e Castro, Conde das Galveas, D.
+Fernando Jose de Portogal, Conde d'Aguiar, and D. Jose de Souza
+Continho, Conde de Redondo. The Papal Nuncio, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord
+Strangford[28], were honoured with the order of the Tower and Sword; six
+English officers were named commanders of the order of the Cross, and
+five others were made knights of the same.
+
+[Note 28: Sir Sydney Smith had followed the Portuguese court to Rio,
+less as commander of the British naval force in those seas, than as the
+protector of the Braganzas. Lord Strangford had resumed his character of
+ambassador.]
+
+The beginning of 1809 was marked by an event of some importance. By the
+treaty of Amiens, Portuguese Guiana had been given up to France, and was
+now, together with French Guyana and Cayenne, governed by the infamous
+Victor Hughes. It was long since France had been able to send out
+succour to these colonies. The fleets of England impeded the navigation,
+and the demands at home were too urgent and too great to permit much to
+be hazarded for the sake of such a distant possession. The court of Rio,
+therefore, resolved to send a body of troops under Colonel Manoel
+Marquez, to the mouth of the Oyapok. The English ship of war, Confiance,
+commanded by Captain Yeo, accompanied him, and their combined attack
+forced the enemy to surrender on the 12th of January. The terms were
+honourable to both parties: and among the articles I observe the 14th,
+by which it is stipulated, that the botanic garden, called the
+Gabrielle, shall not only be spared, but kept up in the state of
+perfection in which it was given up. War is so horrible, that a trait
+like this, in the midst of its evils, is too pleasing to be overlooked.
+
+The rest of the year passed in Brazil in quiet though important
+operations; many roads were opened through the still wild country in the
+interior; a naval academy was instituted; a school of anatomy was
+founded in the naval and military hospital; and the vaccine
+establishment formed in Brazil in 1804 having declined, it was renewed
+both at Bahia and Rio, and immense numbers of persons of all colours
+were vaccinated.
+
+Meanwhile the Portuguese arms were employed in another quarter of the
+world. The extensive dominions of Portugal in the east had fallen off
+one by one, as pearls from a broken thread. Yet Macao was still
+Portuguese. For twenty years past, it, in common with the coast of
+China, had been plagued with the pirates of the Yellow Sea; till, at
+length, the Chinese government found it necessary to take measures for
+suppressing them, and therefore made a treaty with the Portuguese
+government of Macao, signed by the following personages, on the 23d of
+November.
+
+    MIGUEL DE ARRIGA, Judge.
+    BRUN DA SILVA.
+    JOSE JOAQUIN BARROS, General.
+    SHIN KEI CHI.
+    CHES.
+    POM.
+
+The Portuguese were by this treaty to furnish six vessels of from
+sixteen to twenty-six guns, but being in want of ball and other stores
+they were supplied liberally by the English East India Company's
+factory; and the result was, that after three months' resistance, the
+pirates surrendered their ships, and promised to become peaceable
+subjects, and the people of Macao performed a Te Deum in honour of their
+success; but twelve months elapsed ere the happy tidings reached Brazil.
+
+The great European interests of Brazil and its sovereign might have been
+forgotten in the country itself, during the year 1810, so tranquil was
+it, but for the packets which brought across the Atlantic the details of
+those desperate battles, which the strength and the treasure of England
+were waging in defence of them in the Peninsula. On the 19th of
+February, Lord Strangford and the Conde de Linhares, in behalf of their
+respective governments, signed a commercial treaty at Rio, by which
+great and reciprocal advantages were obtained, and the English were
+allowed the free exercise of their own form of worship, provided they
+built no steeples to their churches, and that they used no bells.
+
+This was followed in the month of May by a formal notice from Lord
+Strangford, that the British Parliament had voted 980,000_l._ for the
+carrying on of the war in Portugal. In fact, England had now taken the
+battle into her own hands, as she had decidedly the greatest interest in
+opposing France; and the royal house of Braganza was at leisure to
+devote its whole attention to its American dominions. Several well
+appointed detachments were sent into different parts of the country for
+the purpose of repelling the Indians, whose inroads had destroyed
+several of the Portuguese settlements, of forming roads to connect the
+different provinces with each other, and, above all, of furthering the
+gradual civilisation of the Indian tribes. Strict orders were given the
+commanders to proceed peaceably, especially among the friendly Indians;
+but such as were refractory were to be pursued even to extermination. To
+further the views with which these expeditions had been formed, a
+proclamation was issued in the month of September, holding out to such
+as should become proprietors and reclaimers of land in the province of
+the Minas Geraes and on the banks of the Rio Doce, all the advantages of
+original donatories and lords paramount; and promising that every
+settlement that should contain twelve huts of reclaimed Indians, and ten
+houses of white persons, should be erected into a villa, with all its
+privileges. The party that was sent up the Rio Doce discovered one
+hundred and forty-four farms that had been ruined by the Indians, and
+which they restored: they formed a friendly treaty with several tribes
+of Puri Indians, whom they found already settled in villages, to the
+number of nearly a thousand. These people were gentle, and not without
+some of the arts and habits of industry; but they were heathens and
+polygamists; not that a plurality of wives was general, or even common,
+for there were only one hundred and thirteen wives to ninety four
+husbands. They do not appear to have been cannibals, though it is
+strongly asserted that the neighbouring Botecudos were so, and that
+having gained a slight advantage over the Portuguese, they had eaten
+four of them who fell into their hands.[29] I confess I am sceptical
+about these anthropophagi. That savages may eat their enemies taken in
+battle I do not doubt; under the circumstances of savage life revenge
+and retaliation are sweet: but I doubt their eating the dead found after
+the battle, and I doubt their hunting men, or devouring women and
+children. With the latter atrocities, indeed, they have not been charged
+in modern times; and as at the period the missionaries wrote the first
+histories of them, it was politic to exaggerate the difficulties these
+useful men had to encounter, in order to enhance their services, it is
+not uncharitable to believe that much exaggeration crept into the
+accounts of the savages, especially if we recollect the miracles
+ascribed in those very accounts to many of the missionaries themselves.
+Besides these measures concerning the Indians, other steps were taken
+for the good of the country of no less importance; several colonies,
+both of Europeans, and of islanders from the Açores, were invited and
+encouraged. The fisheries off the coast were attended to, and
+particularly that of the island of St. Catherine; and on the same island
+sufficient experiments were made upon the growth of hemp, to prove that
+time and industry only were wanting to furnish great quantities of that
+valuable article of a very good quality.
+
+[Note 29: I have in my possession a curious drawing, found in a
+Botecudo cottage, and done by one of the Creole Brazilians, of mixed
+breed, who shows himself hidden in a cave, his white companions dead,
+and they, as well as the soldiers of the black regiment who accompanied
+them, have the flesh stripped from the bones, excepting the head, hands,
+and feet. The Botecudos are represented as carrying off this flesh in
+baskets. These savages appear quite naked, having their mouth pieces,
+and being armed with bows and arrows.]
+
+The year 1811 was the last of the life and ministry of the Conde de
+Linhares, whose views were all directed to the good of the country.
+Fully aware not only of its richness and fertility, he also perceived
+how poor and how backward it was, considering its natural advantages.
+In endeavouring to remedy the evils, he perhaps aimed at doing more than
+was possible in the short time, and under the circumstances, in which
+his active disposition could operate. He had formed roads and planned
+canals; he had invited colonies, which indeed afterwards sunk; but they
+left behind them some of their ingenious practice, and some seeds of
+improvement which have not utterly perished. The possibility of
+navigating both the St Matthew's river and the Gequetinhonha had been
+ascertained; experiments in every kind of cultivation had been made;
+even the tea had been introduced from China. A botanical garden had been
+formed, in which the spices of the East were cultivated with success;
+and perhaps as the greatest possible good, a public library had been
+formed, and its regulations framed on the most liberal principles.
+
+Towards the end of 1811 a royal decree was issued, assigning 120,000
+crusadoes per annum to be taken from the customs of Bahia, Pernambuco,
+and Maranham, for forty years, to the Portuguese, who had suffered
+during the French war; a measure regarded even then with jealousy by the
+northern captaincies. But they all continued tranquil for the present,
+and seemed to attend only to domestic improvement. New buildings, both
+for use and ornament, arose in the cities. Maranham and Pernambuco
+improved their harbours. Bahia, besides the handsome theatre opened
+there in 1812, paved her streets; and at Rio, a subscription of 30,000
+crusadoes was raised towards beautifying the palace square, completing
+the public gardens, and draining the campo de Sta. Anna.
+
+In 1813, some disputes arose between the court of Rio and England on
+account of the slave trade. Three ships had been captured by the British
+squadron off the coast of Africa, while certainly engaged in illegal
+_slaving_; remonstrances were made, and the matter continued suspended
+until after the congress of Vienna, when that illustrious meeting,
+though most of its highest and most powerful members had exclaimed
+loudly against the villanous practice, suffered it to be carried on.
+Then indeed England consented to pay 13,000_l._ to indemnify the
+Portuguese slave traders for their loss (July, 1815)!
+
+In the same year there appears to have been some discontent manifested,
+or suspected in the provinces. Many of the salaries of officers, both
+civil and military, remained unpaid; yet there were exactions, the more
+grievous, because they were irregular, in every department; the
+administration of justice was notoriously corrupt; the clergy had fallen
+into disorder and disrepute; and though much that was useful had been
+done, yet that was forgotten, especially in the distant provinces, and
+such a portion of discontent existed, that various officers who had come
+to Rio either on private business or to remonstrate on public wrongs,
+were peremptorily ordered to return to their own provinces.
+
+It was wisely done at this juncture, to take off the public attention
+from such vexations by a measure at once just and gratifying to the
+pride of the Brazilians: by an edict of the 16th of December, 1815,
+Brazil was raised to the dignity of a kingdom, and the style and title
+altered so as to place it on an equal footing with Portugal. For some
+months addresses of thanks and congratulation poured in to the king from
+various provinces, and the feasts and rejoicings on that happy occasion
+occupied the people to the exclusion of all other considerations.
+
+Meantime the victories of the allies in Europe, having caused the exile
+of Napoleon to Elba, the necessity for an English guardian squadron at
+Rio had ceased; and accordingly the British establishment was broken up,
+and the stores sold, and the family of Braganza, again independent of
+foreign aid, began to renew its connections with the other courts of
+Europe.
+
+These negotiations suffered some little interruption from an event which
+had long been expected, namely, the death of the queen, on the 20th of
+March, 1816, whose state, both of body and mind, had long precluded her
+from all share in public affairs. She was buried with great pomp in the
+church of the convent of the Ajuda; and, as is usual, dirges were sung
+for her in all the churches in the kingdom.
+
+In the month of June, the Marquis Marialva was received at Paris as
+ambassador of Portugal and Brazil, and shortly afterwards the way having
+been prepared by an inferior minister, he went to Vienna, to negotiate a
+marriage between Don Pedro de Alcantara, Prince of Portugal and Brazil,
+and the Archduchess Maria Leopoldina, which was happily effected. On the
+28th of November, she was privately contracted at Vienna to the prince.
+On the 17th of February following, the contract was made public, and on
+the 13th of May she was married by proxy, the Marquis Marialva standing
+for Don Pedro; but it was not until the 11th of November that she
+arrived at Rio. The line of battle ship Joam VI. had been sent along
+with two frigates for her to Trieste, the voyage was performed without
+accident, and the person the most important to the hopes and happiness
+of Brazil, was welcomed with enthusiasm by all classes of people.
+
+In the autumn preceding, two of the Infantas of Portugal had been
+married to Ferdinand the 7th of Spain, and his brother the Infant Don
+Carlos.
+
+But the frontier of Brazil to the southward now began to feel the effect
+of those disturbances which had long agitated Spanish South America. The
+chief Artigas showed a disposition to encroach on the Portuguese line,
+and, therefore, a corps of volunteers had been formed for the purposes
+of observation, and the Porte da Santa Theresa had been occupied in
+order to check the motions of that active leader: during the autumn of
+1816, several skirmishes took place, but the arts of negotiation as well
+as of war were resorted to, and on the 19th of January, 1817, the keys
+of Montevideo were delivered up to the Portuguese general Lecor, by
+which the long-wished-for command of the eastern bank of the Plata was
+obtained.
+
+Meantime the discontents in the northern provinces had broken out into
+open insurrection, in the captaincy of Pernambuco. The people of
+Recife, and its immediate neighbourhood, had imbibed some of the notions
+of democratical government from their former masters the Dutch. They
+remembered besides, that their own exertions, without any assistance
+from the government, had driven out those masters, and had restored to
+the crown the northern part of its richest domain. They were, therefore,
+disposed to be particularly jealous of the provinces of the south,
+especially of Rio, which they considered as more favoured than
+themselves, and they were disgusted at the payments of taxes and
+contributions, by which they never profited, and which only served to
+enrich the creatures of the court, while great abuses existed,
+especially in the judicial part of the government, which they despaired
+of ever seeing redressed. Such were the exciting causes of the
+insurrection of 1817, in Pernambuco, which threatened for many months
+the peace, if not the safety of Brazil. The example of the Spanish
+Americans had no doubt its weight, and a regular plan for obtaining
+independence was formed, troops were raised and disciplined, and Recife
+being secured, fortifications were begun at Alagoas and at Penedo.
+
+The insurgents, however, had probably miscalculated the degree of
+concurrence or assistance they should meet with from their neighbours.
+The people of Serinhaem as soon as the insurrection was known, namely
+the middle of April, posted themselves on the Rio Formosa as a check on
+that quarter, and the king's troops under Lacerda, marched immediately
+from Bahia. The Pernambucan leader Victoriano, having attacked the Villa
+de Pedras, received a decided check from a body of royalists, under
+Major Gordilho, who had been sent forward by Lacerda, on the 21st: and
+by the 29th Gordilho had occupied that post, as well as Tamandré, where
+he was not long afterwards joined by Colonel Mello, with a strong
+reinforcement.
+
+Meantime the Pernambucan chief, Domingos Jose Martins, was actively
+employed in collecting troops, and forming guerilla parties, in order to
+harass the marches of the enemy. These parties were headed by
+Cavalcante, a man of wealth and family, aided by a priest, Souto, a
+bold and enterprising man, who was far from being the only
+ecclesiastical partisan. On the 2d of May, a vigorous attack was made on
+Serinhaem, by the famous Pernambucan division of the south, which had
+hitherto received no check; but the assailants were repulsed with the
+loss of their artillery and baggage, and a column under Martins coming
+up met with the same fate, on which he drew off his people with those of
+the south, to the ingenio of Trapiche. On the 6th of May they left that
+position, and meeting the royalists under Mello, suffered a complete
+defeat. Their chiefs were either killed or taken; and of the latter some
+were exiled, others imprisoned, and three, Jose Luiz Mendonça, Domingos
+Jose Martins, and the priest, Miguel Joaquim de Alameida, were hanged in
+Bahia.
+
+At this juncture Luiz do Rego Barreto was appointed by the government at
+Rio to the office of captain-general of Pernambuco. He was a native of
+Portugal, and had served with distinction under Lord Wellington. Of a
+firm and vigorous mind, and jealous of the honour of a soldier, he was
+perhaps too little yielding to the people and the temper of the times.
+The severe military punishments inflicted on this occasion certainly
+produced irritation, which though it did not break out immediately, was
+the cause of much evil afterwards, and brought an odium upon that
+gallant soldier himself, from which his high character in other
+situations could not shield him.
+
+This year the ministry underwent a complete change. The Marquis
+d'Aguiar, who had succeeded to the Conde de Linhares, died in January,
+and the Conde da Barca in June; when the Conde de Palmela became prime
+minister, Bezerra became president of the treasury, the Conde dos Arcos
+secretary for transmarine and naval affairs, the Conde de Funchal
+counsellor of state, and Don Tomas Antonio de Portogal secretary to the
+house of Braganza.
+
+I cannot pretend to speak of the character or measures of these or any
+other Portuguese or Brazilian ministers. My opportunities of information
+were too few; my habits as a woman and a foreigner never led me into
+situations where I could acquire the necessary knowledge. I wish only to
+mark the course of events, and in as far as they are linked with each
+other, the causes of those effects which took place under my own eyes.
+
+In the early part of 1818, some additional restrictions concerning the
+slave trade, which had been agreed to by Conde de Palmela during the
+last year at London, were published at Rio, and a commission of English
+and Portuguese jointly was formed for the examining into and deciding on
+causes arising out of the treaties on that most important subject, a
+certain number of commissioners being appointed to reside in the
+different ports in Africa and Brazil, where the trade was still
+considered lawful. That year opened at Rio with unusual festivity. On
+the 22d of January, a great bull-feast was given at San Christovam, the
+royal country house, in honour of the young princess's birth-day; it was
+followed by a military dance, in which the costume of the natives of
+every part of the Portuguese dominions in the east and west were
+displayed. Portugal and Algarve, Africa and India, China and Brazil, all
+appeared to do homage to the illustrious stranger. Music, in which the
+taste of the king was unrivalled, formed a great part of the
+entertainment, and never perhaps had Brazil witnessed so magnificent a
+festival.
+
+On the 6th of February the coronation of his majesty, John VI., took
+place, and these peaceful festivities gave a character to the year,
+which was remarkably quiet, the only public acts of note being the
+farther prosecution of the plans for civilising the interior, by
+facilitating the communications from place to place, and reclaiming the
+border tribes of Indians.
+
+The following year was not less tranquil. The birth of the young
+princess, Donna Maria da Gloria, was an event to gratify both the court
+and the people of Brazil. They had now the heir of their kingdom born
+among them, a circumstance which they were disposed to hail as a pledge
+that the seat of government would not be removed from among them.
+
+The early part of 1820 was disturbed by some irruptions of the Spanish
+Americans under Artigas, on the eastern side of the Plata. The
+Portuguese troops, however, soon repulsed him, and strengthened their
+line by the occupation of Taquarembo, Simar, and the Arroyo Grande.
+
+Meantime the peace in Europe had not brought back all the tranquillity
+that was expected from it. In vain did the old governments expect to step
+back into exactly the same places they had occupied before the
+revolutionary war. The Cortes had assembled in Spain. Naples had been
+convulsed by an attempt to obtain a constitution similar to that
+promulgated by the Spanish Cortes; and now Portugal began to feel the
+universal impulse. Lisbon and Oporto were both the seats of juntas of
+provisional government, and both assembled Cortes to take into
+consideration the framing of a new constitution, and the reformation of
+ancient abuses. On the 21st of August the Cortes of Lisbon had sworn to
+adopt in part the constitution of the Spanish Cortes, but it was not
+until the month of November that the government of Brazil made public
+the recent occurrences in the mother country. Indeed it was not to be
+expected that Brazil should remain unconscious of the proceedings of
+Europe. The provinces were all more or less agitated. Pernambuco was as
+usual foremost in feeling, and in the expression of feeling. A
+considerable party had assembled at about thirty-six leagues from
+Olinda. They declared their grievances to be intolerable, and that
+nothing but a total reform in the government should reconcile them to
+longer subjection to the government of Rio. The royalist troops were
+sent out against them and were victorious, after an action of six hours,
+in which they lost six officers and 19 men killed, and 134 wounded. The
+loss on the other side was much greater, and as usual severe military
+executions increased the evils of the civil war, at the same time that
+they farther exasperated the people, and prepared them for a future and
+more obstinate resistance.
+
+Bahia was far from tranquil. The old jealousy which had subsisted from
+the time the seat of government had been transferred from the city of
+St. Salvador to Rio, combined with other causes, tended to increase the
+desire of a constitutional government, from which all good was to be
+expected, and under which, it was hoped, that all abuses would be
+reformed. Rio itself began to manifest the same feelings. The provinces
+of St. Paul's and the Minas were always ready to unite in any cause that
+promised an increase of freedom; and the whole country seemed on the
+brink of revolution, if not civil war.
+
+The court party, however, still flattered themselves that the
+determination of the King to remain in Brazil, instead of returning to
+Lisbon to put himself into the power of the Cortes, would be so grateful
+to the Brazilians, that they would be contented to forego the probable
+advantages of a constitution, for the sake of the positive good of
+having the seat of government fixed among themselves. But it was too
+late; the wish for improvement had been excited. The administration had
+been too corrupt, the exactions too heavy to be longer borne, when
+reform appeared to be within reach. The very soldiers became possessed
+with the same spirit, and though highly repugnant to the King's
+feelings, it soon became evident that a compliance with the wishes of
+the people and with the constituton, as declared by the Cortes at
+Lisbon, was inevitable.
+
+It is said, that some of the wisest ministers hail long pressed His
+Majesty to a compliance with the wishes of his people, but in vain. His
+reluctance was unconquerable, until at length, perceiving that force
+would certainly be resorted to, he adopted a half measure which probably
+accelerated the very event he was anxious to avoid.[30] On the 18th of
+February, 1821, the King accepted as a junta, to take into consideration
+such parts of the constitution as might be applicable to the state of
+Brazil, the following persons:--
+
+[Note 30: Some have imagined that a paper published at Rio, written
+by a Frenchman, and supposed to have been in the pay of the then
+ministry, desirous of keeping the king in Brazil, had great effect on
+the subsequent events; and that greater still had been produced by the
+revolution of the 10th of February, at Bahia; but the motives of action
+were the same in all Brazil; the event must have been the same at Rio,
+whether Bahia had stirred or not, though, perhaps, it might be
+accelerated by that circumstance.]
+
+Marquez de Altegrete--_President_
+Baron de St. Amaro.
+Luiz José de Carvalho Mello.
+Antonio Liuz Pereiro da Cunha.
+Antonio Rodriguez Velloso dc Oliviera.
+Joaŏ Severiano Maciel da Costa.
+Camillo Maria Tonelet
+Joaŏ dc Souza de Mendonça Costa Real.
+José da Silva Lisboa.
+Mariano José Pereira da Fonseca.
+Javŏ Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida.
+Francisco Xavier Pires.
+José Caetano Gomez.
+
+
+_Procurador da Casa._
+
+José de Oliviera Botelho Pinto Masquiera.
+
+
+_Secretarios._
+
+Manoel Jacinto Noguerra de Gama.
+Manoel Moreira de Figueiredo.
+
+
+_Secretaries Sustituti._
+
+O Coronel Francisco Saraiva da Costa Refoios.
+O Desembargador Joaŏ José dc Mendonza.
+
+These persons were all anxious to retain the King in Brazil. Most of
+them Brazilians, they had felt the advantage of having the seat of
+government fixed among themselves, and though the King's foreign allies
+and his Portuguese subjects had pressed him to return to Europe, his own
+dread of the Cortes of Lisbon, together with their natural desire to
+detain him in Brazil, produced on the 21st a manifesto, describing His
+Majesty's affection and relianceon his Brazilian subjects, and stating,
+that he was resolved to send the Prince Don Pedro to Lisbon, with full
+powers to treat on his behalf with the Cortes, whom he seems to have
+considered as subjects in rebellion.
+
+The Prince was also to consult with the Cortes concerning the drawing up
+of a constitution, and the King promised to adopt such parts of it as
+might be found applicable to existing circumstances and to the peculiar
+situation of Brazil. This manifesto appears to have produced an effect
+very different from what was intended. At four o'clock in the morning of
+the 26th, all the streets and squares of the city were found full of
+troops. Six pieces of artillery were planted at the heads of the
+principal streets, and the most lively sensation agitated every part of
+the city of Rio. As soon as this circumstance could be known at San
+Christovaŏ, the Prince Don Pedro, and the Infant Don Miguel, came into
+the city. The Camara[31] was assembled in the great saloon of the
+theatre.[32] The Prince, after conferring for a short time with the
+members of that body, appeared upon the balcony of the saloon, and read
+to the people and the troops, a royal proclamation, antedated the 24th,
+securing to them the Constitution, such as it should be framed by the
+Cortes of Lisbon. This was received with loud cries of Viva el Rei, Viva
+a Religiaŏ, Viva a constituicaŏ. The Prince then returned to the saloon,
+and ordered the secretary of the Camara to draw up the form of the oath
+to be taken to observe the constitution, and also a list of a new
+ministry, to be submitted to the people for their approbation. The list
+of ministers was first read, and each individually approved.[33]
+
+[Note 31: The whole municipal body.]
+
+[Note 32: The square in front of the theatre, from its size and
+situation, was most fit for the assembly of the people and troops on such
+an occasion.]
+
+[Note 33:
+
+_New Ministers._
+
+Vice-admiral and Commander-in-chief Quintella, secretary of state.
+Joaquin Jose Monteiro Torres,
+  minister of marine, and secretary for transmarine affairs.
+Silvestre Pinhero Fereiro, secretary for foreign affairs.
+Conde de Louça, head of the treasury.
+Bishop of Rio, president of the board of conscience.
+Antonio Luiz Pereiro da Cunha, head of police.
+José Gaetano Gomes, grand treasurer.
+Joao Fereiro da Costa Sampaio, second treasurer.
+Sebastian Luiz Terioco, fiscal.
+José da Silva Lisboa, literary department.
+Joao Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida, director of the bank.
+----Barboza, police.
+Conde de Aseca, head of the board of trade.
+Brigadier Carlos Frederico da Cunha, commander-in-chief, &c.
+
+]
+
+His Royal Highness then proceeded to take the oath for his father, in
+the following form:--
+
+"I swear, in the name of the King, my father and lord, veneration and
+respect for our holy religion; to observe, keep, and maintain for ever
+the constitution such as established by the cortes in Portugal." The
+bishop then presented to him the holy Gospels, on which he laid his
+right hand, and solemnly vowed, promised, and signed the same.
+
+The Prince then took the oath in like manner for himself, and was
+immediately followed by his brother, the Infant Don Miguel, after whom
+the ministers and a multitude of other persons crowded to follow his
+example. Meantime the Prince rode to the King at his country seat of Boa
+Vista, at San Cristovaõ, to inform him of all that had passed, and to
+entreat his presence in the city, as the best means of securing order
+and confidence. His Majesty accordingly set off immediately, and arrived
+at the great square at about eleven o'clock, when the people took the
+horses from his carriage and dragged him to the palace, the troops
+following as on a day of gala, and forming in the square before the
+doors. At one of the centre windows the King presently appeared, and
+confirmed all that the Prince had promised in his name, declaring at the
+same time his perfect approbation of every thing that had been done. The
+troops then dispersed, and the King held a court, which was most
+numerously attended; and the day ended at the opera, the people again
+assembling to drag the King's carriage thither.
+
+It would be curious to investigate the feelings of princes on occasions
+so momentous to themselves and to their people. Joam VI., passionately
+fond of music, was dragged by a people, grateful for a boon granted that
+very day, to a theatre built by himself, where all the music vocal and
+instrumental was selected with exquisite taste, and where the piece
+presented was a decided favourite.[34] Yet it may be questioned whether
+there existed in his wide dominions one heart less at ease than his
+own. All his feelings and prejudices were in favour of the ancient order
+of things, and this day those feelings and prejudices had been obliged
+to bend to the spirit of the times, to a wide-spread desire for freedom,
+to every thing, in short, most contrary to the ancient system of
+continental Europe.
+
+[Note 34: Rossini's Cenerentola.]
+
+The next day[35], there was nothing but joy in the city, the great
+saloon was again crowded with persons eager to sign the oath to the
+constitution, illuminations, feux de joie, and fireworks succeeded; and
+at the opera, Puccito's Henrique IV. was ordered in compliment to the
+King. But he was too much fatigued with the events of the last two days
+to go, and when the curtain of the royal box was drawn up, the pictures
+only of the king and queen appeared; but they were received with loud
+acclamations, as if the royal personages themselves had been present.
+
+[Note 35: The 27th, on which day Messrs. Thornton, Grimaldi, and
+Maler, ministers from England and France, waited on His Majesty. The
+different motions or interferences of the members of the diplomatic body
+scarcely concern this period. There is no doubt but that they were busy.
+But circumstances which they could not control, though they might
+disturb, brought about the revolution of the 26th, the visible facts
+alone of which I pretend to give.]
+
+Thus was a most important revolution brought about without bloodshed,
+and almost without disturbance. The junta occupied itself seriously on
+the business of the constitution, and began by publishing some edicts
+highly favourable to the people, and, among others, one insuring the
+liberty of the press.
+
+Meantime Bahia, actuated by the same spirit as Rio, had anticipated the
+revolution at that place. On the 10th of February the troops and people
+assembled in the city, the magistrates were called on to take an oath to
+adhere to the constitution, a provisional government was formed, and
+troops were raised in order to maintain the constitution, in case the
+court at Rio should be adverse to its adoption. Among these the most
+forward was a small body of artillery, formed of the students at the
+different colleges and schools of the city. The new government early
+began to manifest a determination to be no longer subordinate to Rio,
+and to acknowledge no other authority than that of the Cortes at
+Lisbon. An intimation of what had taken place at Bahia was immediately
+forwarded to Luiz do Rego at Pernambuco, who assembled the magistrates,
+the troops, and the people, on the 3d of March, in Recife, and there,
+along with them, solemnly took the oath to adhere to the constitution; a
+measure which gave universal satisfaction. About the same time, several
+of the towns in the Comarca of Ilheos also took the oaths to maintain
+the constitution; and it appeared evidently that the whole country was
+equally desirous of a change, in hopes of relief from the vexations it
+had so long suffered under.
+
+But the agitation of the capital was by no means at an end. Disputes
+arose concerning the election of deputies to the cortes, which, however,
+ended in adopting the method laid down in the Spanish constitution. The
+troops found it necessary to publish a declaration, denying that they
+had any factious views when they assembled on the 26th of February, and
+alleging that they appeared as citizens anxious for the rights of the
+whole community. The people assembled in different places, and are said
+to have insulted several persons, particularly the members of the
+council which existed immediately before the revolution; and in order to
+save three of them from the fury of the mob, they were placed in
+confinement for three days, and then liberated, with a proclamation
+tending to exculpate them from all criminal charges, and explaining the
+motives of their arrest.
+
+The King meanwhile had resolved on returning to Lisbon, and on the 7th
+of March he published a proclamation announcing his resolution, together
+with an order for such deputies as should be elected by the time of his
+departure, to go with him to attend the Cortes, and promising to find
+means of conveying the rest when they should be ready.
+
+Every thing now appeared to proceed in quiet. The preparations for His
+Majesty's departure went on, and he resolved to take the opportunity of
+the assembling of the electors on the 21st of April, to choose the
+deputies to the Cortes, to submit to them the plan for the government of
+Brazil which he had laid down, in order to receive their sanction.
+These electors were assembled in the exchange, a handsome new building
+on the shore, and thither a great concourse of people had flocked, some
+purely from curiosity, some from a desire, imagining they had a right,
+to express their opinion on so important a subject. The result of that
+meeting was a deputation sent to the king, insisting on the adoption of
+the entire Spanish constitution. The decree of the assembly received the
+signature of the King. But the members of that assembly met again on the
+22d, many of whom had no legal title to be present, and proceeded to
+propose to stop the ships prepared for the King's return to Portugal.
+Some went so far as to propose an examination of the vessels, in order
+to stop the exportation of the quantity of wealth known to be on board
+of them, and the meeting at length assumed so alarming an aspect, that
+His Majesty revoked his royal consent to the act passed on the 21st, and
+sent a body of soldiers to intimidate the assembly. Unhappily, an order
+proceeding from some quarter, never known or never acknowledged, caused
+the soldiers to fire into the exchange, where the unarmed and innocent
+electors, as well as the others who had crowded thither, it might be,
+with less pure motives, were assembled, but all were there on the faith
+of the royal invitation given through the judge of the district.
+
+About thirty persons were killed, many more were wounded: and the whole
+city was filled with an indescribable consternation. The sudden stop
+that was put to this strange, unwise and cruel attack, has always been
+attributed to the Prince Don Pedro, who, on this as on other occasions,
+has well merited the title of perpetual defender of Brazil. The attack
+itself, perhaps unjustly, was imputed to the Conde dos Arcos by some, to
+other individuals by others, according as passion or party directed the
+suspicion: the truth is, that it seems to have been the result of
+ill-understood orders, given hastily in a moment of alarm, for it is
+impossible to think, for an instant, that any man could wantonly have so
+cruelly irritated the people at the very time when so much depended on
+their tranquillity. This shocking event, however, seems to have
+quickened the King's resolution to leave Brazil. That very day he made
+over the government of that country to the Prince, with a council to be
+composed of
+
+    The Conde dos Arcos, Prime Minister.
+    Conda da Louça, Minister of Interior.
+    Brigadier Caula, Minister of War.
+
+And in case of the prince's death, the regency to remain in the hands of
+the Princess Maria Leopoldina.
+
+The next day the King publicly addressed the troops, recommending to
+them fidelity to the crown and constitution, and obedience to the Prince
+Regent, and as a royal boon on leaving the army, promising a great
+increase of pay to all, and that the Brazilian officers should be put on
+the same footing as those of the Portuguese army. The ministers who
+advised this step, acted cruelly towards the government they left
+behind. The treasury was left empty at the King's departure, yet
+increase of pay beyond all precedent was promised, as well as other
+burdens on the prince's revenue. His Majesty published on the same day,
+a farewell to the inhabitants of Rio; and it cannot be imagined that he
+could leave the place which to him had been a haven of safety, during
+the storm in which most of his brother monarchs had suffered, without
+feelings of regret, if not affection.
+
+The Prince also addressed the Brazilians on assuming the government by a
+proclamation, which, as it sets forth his intentions, I shall give
+literally:
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil;
+
+"The necessity of paying attention to the general interests of the
+nation before every other, forces my august father to leave you, and to
+intrust me with the care of the public happiness of Brazil, until
+Portugal shall form a constitution, and confirm it.
+
+"And, as I judge it right, in the present circumstances, that all should
+from this time understand what are the objects of public administration
+which I have principally in view, I lose no time in declaring, that
+strict respect for the laws, constant vigilance over the administration
+of the same, opposition to the quibbles by which they are discredited
+and weakened, will be the objects of my first attention.
+
+"It will be highly agreeable to me to anticipate all such benefits of
+the constitution as shall be compatible with obedience to the laws.
+
+"Public education, which now demands the most especial attention of the
+government, will be provided for by every means in my power.
+
+"And in order that the commerce and agriculture of Brazil may be in a
+prosperous state, I shall not cease to encourage whatever may favour
+these copious sources of national riches.
+
+"I shall pay equal attention to the interesting subject of reform,
+without which it will be impossible to use liberal means for the public
+good.
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil! all these intentions will be frustrated if
+certain evil-minded persons should accomplish their fatal views, and
+persuade you to adopt antisocial principles, destructive of all order,
+and diametrically opposed to the system of liberality, which from this
+moment it is my intention to follow."
+
+The ceremonies of taking leave, occupied the following day. On the 24th,
+the royal family embarked, and with it many of the Portuguese nobles who
+had followed their king into exile, and many others whose fortunes were
+entirely attached to the court.
+
+But this great re-emigration produced evils of no common magnitude in
+Brazil. It is computed that fifty millions of crusadoes, at least, were
+carried out of the country by the Portuguese returning to Lisbon. A
+great proportion of specie had been taken up in exchange for government
+bills on the treasuries of Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranham. But these
+provinces, from the revolution in February, had disclaimed the
+superiority of the government at Rio, and had owned no other than that
+of the Cortes at Lisbon, and above all the ministry well knew, even at
+the time of granting the bills, that they had refused to remit any
+portion of the revenue to Rio. Hence arose commercial distress of every
+description, and as long-standing government debts had been also paid by
+these bills which were all dishonoured, the evil spread far and wide,
+not only among the natives but the foreign merchants. It was of little
+avail that the Prince acknowledged the debts[36]; the treasury was left
+so poor, that he was obliged to delay or modify the increase of military
+pay promised on the King's departure, a circumstance that occasioned
+much disquiet in several provinces. The funds for carrying on several
+branches of industry, and several works of public utility were destroyed
+by this great and sudden drain; and thereby much that had been begun
+after the arrival of the court, and which it was hoped would have been
+of the greatest benefit to the country, was stopped. Colonies that had
+been invited to settle with the most liberal promises perished for want
+of the necessary support in the beginning of their career, and the
+wonder is, not that disturbances in various quarters took place after
+the departure of the King, but that they were not of a more fierce and
+fatal tendency.
+
+[Note 36: It was of little avail at the time. But as soon as it was
+possible, his royal highness's government began payments by instalments,
+which are still going on, notwithstanding the total change of
+government. This is highly honourable.]
+
+The Prince who remained at the head of the government was deservedly
+popular among the Brazilians. His first care was to examine into and
+redress causes of grievances; particularly those arising from arbitrary
+imprisonment and vexatious methods of collecting taxes. The great duties
+on salt conveyed into the interior, were remitted. Something was done
+towards improving the condition of the barracks, hospitals, and schools.
+Books were allowed to be imported duty free, and every thing that could
+be effected under the circumstances, was done by the Prince for the
+advantage of the people, and to preserve or promote public tranquillity.
+
+But the question of the independence of Brazil had now come to be
+publicly agitated, and out of it arose several others. Was it to be
+still part of the Portuguese monarchy, with a separate supreme
+jurisdiction civil and criminal under the Prince? or was it to return to
+the abject state in which it had been since its discovery, subject to
+all the vexatious delays occasioned by distant tribunals, by appeals
+beyond sea, and all that renders the state of a colony irksome or
+degrading? Then if independent so far, was it to form one kingdom whose
+capital should be at Rio, or were there to be several unconnected
+provinces, each with its supreme government, accountable only to the
+king and cortes at Lisbon? Those who had republican views, and who
+looked forward to a federal state, favoured the latter views, and so did
+those who dreaded the final separation of Brazil from the mother
+country; for they argued that the separate provinces might be easily
+controlled, but that Brazil united would overmatch any force that
+Portugal could send against it, should a hostile struggle between them
+ever take place.
+
+The people, jealous of all, but particularly of the ministers, accused
+the Conde dos Arcos of treachery, and of a wish to reduce Brazil once
+more to the state in which it had been before 1808. They insisted on his
+dismissal, and on the appointment of a provisional junta, which should
+deliberate on the best measures of government to be adopted, until the
+constitution of the cortes should arrive from Lisbon, and the fifth of
+June, the day of his dismissal, was held as a festival.[37]
+
+[Note 37: When he touched at Bahia on his way home, the junta of
+government there, prejudiced by letters from Rio, refused him permission
+to land; and he had the mortification of being treated as a criminal, in
+that very city where he had governed with honour, and where he had been
+beloved. On his arrival at Lisbon, he suffered a short imprisonment in
+the tower of Belem. Yet his misconduct, if it amounted to all he was
+charged with, seems to have been an error in judgment.]
+
+Yet, distressed as the government was by an empty treasury, and by
+demands increasing daily on all sides, it was impossible to remove at
+once all causes of discontent; and the new junta was so well aware of
+this, that, on the 16th of June, on publishing an invitation to all
+persons to send in plans and projects for improvements, and statistical
+notices concerning the country, they also published an exhortation to
+tranquillity and obedience, and patient waiting till the event of the
+deliberation of the cortes, now to be joined by their own deputies,
+should be known. That same night both the Portuguese and Brazilian
+troops were under arms in the city, violent jealousies had arisen
+between them, and it required all the authority and all the popularity
+of the Prince to restore order. On the morning of the 17th His Royal
+Highness called together the officers of both nations, and in a short
+speech he ordered them as soldiers, and recommended to them as citizens,
+to preserve the subordination of the troops they commanded, and union
+among those troops, bidding them remember that they had sworn to support
+the constitution, and that they were to trust to that for the redress of
+their grievances.
+
+Meanwhile the more distant provinces had acknowledged the authority of
+the cortes, and had sworn to support the constitution. But Maranham in
+its public acts took no notice whatever of the Prince, professing only
+to recognise the government of Lisbon. At Villa Rica, when the
+constitution was proclaimed, the troops refused to acknowledge the
+Prince, accusing him of withholding the pay promised by the King. At St.
+Catherine's, though the measures were less violent, yet the refusing to
+admit a new governor who had been sent, was decidedly an act of
+insubordination; but the political agitations at St. Paul's were not
+only of a more serious nature, but had more important results than those
+of any other province.
+
+The ostensible cause of the first public ferment in that city was the
+discontent of the Caçadores at not receiving the promised augmentation
+of pay, which, indeed, it was not then in the power of the Prince to
+bestow on them.
+
+The regiment, however, took up arms on the 3d of June, and declared they
+would not lay them down until they received the pay demanded, and were
+proceeding to threaten the municipal government of the city, when they
+were stopped by the good sense, and presence of mind of their captain,
+José Joaquim dos Santos. But though the ferment was soothed for the
+time, it continued to agitate not only the troops, but the people, to
+such a degree, that the magistrates and principal inhabitants thought it
+necessary to take some steps at once, to rule and to satisfy them. They
+took advantage of the occasion furnished by the assembling of the
+militia, on account of a festival on the 21st, and, keeping them
+together, they placed them on the morning of the 23d, in the square
+before the town-house, where the camara held its sittings. The great
+bell of the camara then tolled out, the people flocked to the square,
+with shouts of "Viva el Re, Viva o Constituiçao, Viva o Principe
+Regente." They then demanded a provisional junta to be appointed for the
+government of the province, and that José Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva,
+should be appointed president. This truly patriotic citizen and
+accomplished scholar, was a native of the country, and had now been
+residing in it some years, after having studied, travelled, and fought
+in Europe. As soon as he was named, a deputation was sent to his own
+dwelling, to bring him to the town-house.
+
+Meantime the standard of the camara had been displayed at one of the
+windows, and there the magistrates were placed in sight of the people.
+José Bonifacio appeared at another window, and addressed the people in a
+short, but energetic speech, calculated to give them courage, and at the
+same time to inspire peace and all good and orderly feeling. He then
+named, one by one, the members proposed by the chief citizens, to form
+the provisional junta, beginning with Joaŏ Carlos Augusto de Oyenhausen,
+to continue general of arms in the province. Each name was received with
+cheers.[38] The troops and people then marched in an orderly manner to
+the house of José Bonifacio, to install him formally as president, and
+thence to the cathedral where a Te Deum was sung. At night the theatre
+was illuminated as for a gala, the national hymn was sung repeatedly;
+and from that moment all remained quiet in the city, and resolved to
+maintain the constitution, and the Prince Regent, for whom they
+expressed unbounded attachment.
+
+[Note 38: _Provisional government of St. Paul's._
+
+    The Archpriest Felisberto Gomes Jardin.
+    The Rev. Joaŏ Ferreiro da Oliviero Bueno.
+    Antonio Lecto Perreiro da Gama Lobo.
+    Daniel Pedro Muller.
+    Francisco Ignacio.
+    Manoel Rodriguez Jordaŏ.
+    Andre da Sylva Gomez.
+    Francisco de Paulo Oliviera.
+    Dr. Nicolaŏ Perreira de Campos Noguerros.
+    Antonio Maria Quertim.
+    Martin Francisco de Andrada.
+    Lazaro José Gonçalez.
+    Miguel José de Oliviero Pinto.
+
+]
+
+Nothing could have been so important to the interest of the Prince at
+that time. The Paulistas are among the most hardy, generous, and
+enlightened of the Brazilians. Their country is in the happiest climate.
+The mines of St. Paul's are rich, not only in the precious, but in the
+useful metals. Iron, so rich as to yield 93 per cent. and coal abound.
+The manufactures of that province are far before any others in Brazil.
+Corn and cattle are plenty there, as well as every other species of
+Brazilian produce. Agriculture is attended to, and the city by its
+distance from the sea, is safe from the attacks of any foreign power,
+while it is totally independent of external supplies.
+
+Unfortunately, the port of Santos presented a different scene during the
+first days of June. The first battalion of the Caçadores assembled
+before the government house, and, accusing the governor and the camara
+of withholding their pay, seized and imprisoned them, in order to force
+them to give the money they demanded. Several murders were committed
+during the insurrection, and various robberies, both in the houses and
+the ships in the harbour. Some armed vessels were, however, speedily
+despatched from Rio, and a detachment of militia from St. Paul's. Fifty
+of the insurgents were killed, and two hundred and forty taken
+prisoners; after which, every thing returned to a state of tranquillity;
+and as the most conciliatory measures were adopted towards the people,
+the peace continued.
+
+The next three months were spent almost entirely in establishing
+provisional juntas in the different capitals. Many of the captaincies
+had, upon swearing to maintain the constitution, spontaneously adopted
+that measure. Others, such as Pernambuco, had been restrained by their
+governors from doing so, until the Prince's edicts of the 21st of
+August, to that effect, reached them. These edicts were followed by
+another of the 19th of September, directing the juntas to communicate
+directly with the cortes at Lisbon; and the whole attention of the
+government was now directed to preserve tranquillity until the arrival
+of instructions from the cortes concerning the form of government to be
+adopted.
+
+It was fondly hoped, that the presence of Brazilian deputies, the
+importance of the country, and the consideration that it had been the
+asylum of the government during the stormy days of the revolutionary
+war, would have induced the cortes to have considered it no longer as a
+colony, but as an equal part of the nation, and that it might have
+retained its separate courts, civil and criminal, and all the consequent
+advantages of a prompt administration of the laws.
+
+Such was the state of Brazil, generally speaking, on our arrival in that
+country, on the 21st of September, 1821. Much that might be interesting
+I have omitted, partly because I have not so correct a knowledge of it,
+as to venture to write it; much, because we are too near the time of
+action to know the motives and springs that guided the actors; and much,
+because neither my sex nor situation permitted me to inform myself more
+especially concerning the political events in a country where the
+periodical publications are few, recent, and though by law free, yet, in
+fact, owing to the circumstances of the times, imperfect, timorous, and
+uncertain. What I have ventured to write is, I trust, correct as to
+facts and dates; it is merely intended as an introduction, without
+which, the journal of what passed while I was in Brazil would be
+scarcely intelligible.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+
+At about six o'clock in the evening of the 31st of July, 1821, after
+having saluted His Majesty, George IV., who at that moment went on board
+the Royal George yacht, to proceed to Dublin,--we sailed in the Doris, a
+42 gun frigate, for South America. After touching at Plymouth, and
+revisiting all the wonders of the break-water and new watering place, we
+sailed afresh, but when off Ushant, were driven back to Falmouth by a
+heavy gale of wind. There we remained till the 11th of August, when,
+with colours half-mast high, on account of the death of Queen Caroline,
+we finally left the channel, and on the 18th about noon came in sight of
+Porto Santo.
+
+We passed it on the side where the town founded by Don Henry of
+Portugal, on the first discovery of the island, is situated, and
+regretted much that it was too late in the day to go in very near it.
+The land is high and rocky, but near the town there is a good deal of
+verdure, and higher up on the land, extensive woods; a considerable
+quantity of wine is made there, which, being a little manufactured at
+Funchal, passes for true Madeira. As usual in Portuguese colonial towns,
+the church and convent are very conspicuous. When we passed Porto Santo,
+and the Desertas, and anchored in Funchal roads, I was disappointed at
+the calmness of my own feelings, looking at these distant islands with
+as little emotion as if I had passed a headland in the channel. Well do
+I remember, when I first saw Funchal twelve years ago, the joyous
+eagerness with which I feasted my eyes upon the first foreign country I
+had ever approached, the curiosity to see every stone and tree of the
+new land, which kept my spirits in a kind of happy fever.
+
+    "Sweet Memory, wafted by thy gentle gale,
+    Oft up the stream of time I turn my sail,
+    To view the fairy haunts of long lost hours,
+    Blest with far greener shades, far fresher flow'rs." ROGERS.
+
+Now I look on them tamely, or at best only as parts of the lovely
+landscape, which, just at sunset, the time we anchored, was particularly
+beautiful. Surely the few years added to my age have not done this? May
+I not rather hope, that having seen lands whose monuments are all
+history, and whose associations are all poetry, I have a higher taste,
+and more discriminating eye? One object never palls--that ocean where
+the Almighty "Glasses himself in tempests," or over which the gentle
+wings of peace seem to brood. The feeling that there was a change,
+however, either in the scene or in me, was so strong, that I ran to my
+cabin and sought out a sketch I had made in 1809. I compared it with the
+town. Every point of the hill, every house was the same, and again Nossa
+Senhora da Monte, with her brilliant white towers shining from on high
+through the evening cloud, seemed to sanctify the scene, while a few
+rough voices from the shore and the neighbouring ships chaunted the Ave
+Maria.
+
+Early in the morning of the 19th, we took a large party of the
+midshipmen on shore to enjoy the young pleasure of walking on a foreign
+land. To them it was new to see the palm, the cypress, and the yucca,
+together with the maize, banana, and sugar-cane, surrounded by
+vineyards, while the pine and chesnut clothe the hills. We mounted the
+boys on mules, and rode up to the little parish church, generally
+mistaken for a convent, called Nossa Senhora da Monte. My maid and I
+went in a bad sort of palankeen, though convenient for these roads,
+which are the worst I have seen; however, the view made up for the
+difficulty of getting to it. The sea with the Desertas bounded the
+prospect: below us lay the roadstead and shipping, the town and gardens,
+and the hill clothed with vineyards and trees of every climate, which
+deck the ashy tufa, or compact basalt of which the whole island seems to
+be composed. Purchas, who like Bowles, believes the story of the
+discovery of Madeira by the Englishman Masham and his dying mistress,
+says, that shortly after that event, the woods having taken fire burned
+so fiercely, that the inhabitants were forced out to sea to escape from
+the flames. The woods, however, are again pretty thick, and some
+inferior mahogany among it is used for furniture. The pine is too soft
+for most purposes. In the gardens we found a large blue hydrangea very
+common: the fuschia is the usual hedge. Mixed with that splendid shrub,
+aloes, prickly pear, euphorbia, and cactus, serve for the coarser
+fences; and these strange vegetables, together with innumerable lizards
+and insects, tell us we are nearing the tropics.
+
+We spent a very happy day at the hospitable country house of Mr.
+Wardrope, and our cavalcade to the town at night was delightful. The
+boys, mounted as before, together with several gentlemen who had joined
+us at Mr. W.'s, enjoyed the novelty of riding home by torch-light; and
+as we wound down the hill, the voices of the muleteers answering each
+other, or encouraging their beasts with a kind of rude song, completed
+the scene. The evening was fine, and the star-light lovely: we embarked
+in two shore boats at the custom-house gate, and, after being duly
+hailed by the guard-boat, a strange machine mounting one old rusty 6
+lb. carronade, we reached the ship in very good time.
+
+20th. We walked a good deal about the town, and entered the cathedral
+with some feelings of reverence, for a part of it at least was built by
+Don Henry of Portugal, who founded and endowed the college adjoining.
+The interior of the church is in some parts gaudy, and there is a silver
+rail of some value. The ceiling is of cedar, richly carved, and reminds
+me of some of the old churches at Venice, which present a style half
+Gothic half Saracenic. Near the church a public garden has lately been
+formed, and some curious exotic trees placed there with great success.
+
+In rambling about the town, we naturally enquired for the chapel of
+skulls, the ugliness of which had shocked us when here formerly, and
+were not sorry to find that that hideous monument of bad taste is
+falling fast to ruin. I cannot imagine how such fantastic horrors can
+ever have been sanctified, but so it is; and the Indian fakir who
+fastens a real skull round his neck, the Roman pilgrim who hangs a model
+of one to his rosary, and the friar who decks his oratory with a
+thousand of them, are one and all acted upon either by the same real
+superstition, or spiritual vanity, craving to distinguish itself even by
+disgusting peculiarities.
+
+Of late years superstition has been used as an instrument of no small
+power in revolutions of every kind. Even here it has played its part. A
+small chapel, dedicated to St. Sebastian, had been removed by the
+Portuguese government in order to erect a market-place, where all
+articles of daily consumption were to be sold, a small tax being levied
+on the holders of stands. This innovation was of course disagreeable to
+the people, and on the night of the revolution, in November last, some
+of their leading orators accused the market-place of having, by rudely
+thrusting out St. Sebastian, occasioned the failure of the vineyards,
+and threatened the ruin of the island. The market-place was instantly
+devoted; it was down in a few seconds, and a chapel to St. Sebastian
+begun. Men, women, and children worked all night, and the walls were
+raised to at least two-thirds of the intended height; but day brought
+weariness, and perhaps the morning breeze chilled the fever of
+enthusiasm. The voluntary labourers worked no more, and no subscription
+adequate to the hire of workmen to complete it has yet been raised: so
+that the new St. Sebastian's stands roofless, and the officiating priest
+performs his masses with no other canopy than the heavens.
+
+Other and better consequences have, however, arisen from the revolution
+of November. The grievances of the inhabitants of Madeira were severe.
+The sons of the best families were seized arbitrarily, and sent to serve
+in the armies of Europe or Brazil: scarcely any article, however
+necessary, or however coarse, was permitted to be manufactured; the very
+torches, made of twisted grass and resin, so necessary for travelling
+these mountain roads after sunset, were all sent from Lisbon, and every
+species of cultivation, but that of the grape, discountenanced. Thus
+situated, every class joined heart and hand in the revolution: deputies
+were sent to the Cortes; petitions respecting the state of agriculture,
+manufactures, and commerce, were presented; and many, perhaps most, of
+the grievances were redressed, or at least much lightened.
+
+Till the year 1821, there had never been a printing-press in Madeira;
+but the promoters of the revolution sent to England for one, which is
+now set up in Funchal; and on the 2d of July, 1821, the first newspaper,
+under the name of PATRIOTA FUNCHALENSE, appeared. It contained a well
+written patriotic preface; and the first article is a declaration of the
+rights of citizens, and of the pretensions of the Portuguese nation, its
+religion, government, and royal family, as adopted by the Cortes for the
+basis of the constitution to be formed for its government. The paper has
+continued to be published twice a week: it contains a few political
+addresses and discourses; all foreign intelligence; some tolerable
+papers on distilling, agriculture, manufactures, and similar topics;
+some humorous pieces in prose and verse; poems _on several occasions_;
+and, at the end of the month, a table of the receipts and expenditures
+of government. Among the advertisements I observe one informing the
+public where _leeches_ may be bought at about two shillings and sixpence
+a piece.
+
+I thought it curious to observe this first dawning of literature and
+interest in politics in this little island. There are certainly enough
+anglicisms in the paper, to point out the probable country of some of
+the writers; and there are, as might be looked for, some traces of the
+residence of British troops in the colony; but on the whole, the paper
+is creditable to the editors, and likely to be useful to the island. I
+hear the articles on the making of wines and brandies very highly spoken
+of. Madeira, lying in the finest climate in the world, beautiful and
+fertile, and easy of access to foreigners, ought not to be a mere half
+civilised colony.
+
+23d.--We sailed yesterday from Funchal, and soon lost sight of the
+
+      "Filha do oceano
+     Do undoso campo flor, gentil MADEIRA." DINIZ.
+
+At night, I sat a long time on the deck, listening to the sea songs with
+which the crew beguile the evening watch. Though the humorous songs were
+applauded sufficiently, yet the plaintive and pathetic seemed the
+favourites; and the chorus to the Death of Wolfe was swelled by many
+voices. Oh, who shall say that fame is not a real good! It is twice
+blessed--it blesses him who earns, and those who give, to parody the
+words of Shakspeare. Here, on the wide ocean, far from the land of
+Wolfe's birth, and that of his gallant death, his story was raising and
+swelling the hearts of rough men, and exciting love of country and of
+glory by the very sound of his name. Well may _he_ be called a
+benefactor to his country who, by increasing the list of patriotic
+sailors' songs, has fostered those feelings and energies which have
+placed Britain's "home upon the mountain wave, and her march upon the
+deep."
+
+The charms of night in a southern climate have been dwelt upon by
+travelled poets (for I call Madame de Stael's writings poetry), and even
+travelled prose writers; but Lord Byron alone has sketched with
+knowledge and with love, the moonlight scenery of a frigate in full
+sail. The life of a seaman is the essence of poetry; change, new
+combinations, danger, situations from almost deathlike calm, to the
+maddest combinations of horror--every romantic feeling called forth, and
+every power of heart and intellect exercised. Man, weak as he is,
+baffling the elements, and again seeing that miracle of his invention,
+the tall ship he sails in, tossed to and fro, like the lightest feather
+from the seabird's wing--while he can do nothing but resign himself to
+the will of Him who alone can stay the proud waves, and on whom heart,
+intellect, and feeling, all depend!
+
+25th.--Nothing can be finer than the approach to Teneriffe[39],
+especially on such a day as this; the peak now appearing through the
+floating clouds, and now entirely veiled by them. As we drew near the
+coast, the bay or rather roadstead of Oratava, surrounded by a singular
+mixture of rocks, and woods, and scattered towns, started forth at once
+from beneath the mists, which seemed to separate it from the peak, whose
+cold blue colour formed a strong contrast to the glowing red and yellow
+which autumn had already spread on the lower grounds.
+
+[Note 39: The Chinerfe of the Guanches.]
+
+We anchored in forty fathoms water with our chain-cable, as the bottom
+is very rocky, excepting where a pretty wide river, which, though now
+dry, rolls a considerable body of water to the sea in the rainy season,
+has deposited a bed of black mud. There are many rocks in the bay, with
+from one to three fathoms water, and within them from nine to ten. The
+swell constantly setting in is very great, and renders the anchorage
+uncomfortable.
+
+26th.--- I went ashore with Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant, and two of
+the young midshipmen, for the purpose of riding to the Villa di Oratava,
+which is situated where the ancient Guanche capital stood. We landed at
+the Puerto di Oratava, several miles from the villa: it is defended by
+some small batteries, at one of which is the very difficult
+landing-place, sheltered by a low reef of rocks that runs far out, and
+occasions a heavy surf. I took my own saddle ashore: and being mounted
+on a fine mule, we all began our journey towards the hill. The road is
+rough, but has evidently once been made with some pains, and paved with
+blocks of porous lava; but the winter rains have long ago destroyed it,
+and it does not seem to be any body's business to put it in repair.
+
+The first quarter of a mile on either hand presented a scene so black
+and stony, that I was surprised to learn that we had been passing
+through corn land; the harvest was over, and the stubble burned on the
+ground. The produce here is scanty; but being so near the port, it
+repays the labour and expense of cultivation. We saw the botanical
+garden so much praised by Humboldt; but it is in sad disorder, having
+been for some time entirely neglected. However, the very establishment
+of such a thing brings in new plants, and perhaps naturalises them.
+Here, the sago-palm, platanus, and tamarind, as well as the flowers and
+vegetables of the north of Europe, flourish so well as to promise to add
+permanently to the riches of this rich island. As we ascended towards
+the villa the prospect improved; the vineyards appeared in greatest
+beauty, every other crop still standing in the luxuriant valleys, the
+rocky cliffs of the mountains clothed with wood, and every thing glowing
+with life. Wheat, barley, a few oats, maize, potatoes, and caravansas,
+all grow freely here. The food of the common people consists chiefly of
+Polenta, or maize flour, used nearly as the Scotch peasants use their
+oatmeal, in cakes, brose, or porridge, which last is suffered to grow
+cold, and then most commonly cut in slices and toasted. After the maize,
+potatoes are the favourite food, together with salt fish. The potatoe is
+always in season, being planted every month, and consequently producing
+a monthly crop. The fishery employs from forty-five to fifty vessels of
+from seventy to ninety tons' burden, from the island of Teneriffe alone;
+the fish are taken on the coast of Africa, and salted here.
+
+To a stranger the sight of the long walls of black porous lava, built
+terrace-wise to support the vegetable mould, is very striking; but the
+walls cannot be called ugly, while the clustering vine and
+broad-spreading gourd, climb and find support on them: these, however,
+soon disappeared, and were replaced by field and garden enclosures.
+After a pleasant but hot ride, we arrived at the villa about noon, and
+went to the house of Señor Don Antonio de Monteverde, who accompanied us
+to M. Franqui's garden, to see one of the wonders of the island, the
+famous Dragon Tree. Humboldt has celebrated this tree in its vigour;
+it is now a noble ruin. In July, 1819, one half of its enormous crown
+fell: the wound is plaistered up, the date of the misfortune marked on
+it, and as much care is taken of the venerable vegetable as will ensure
+it for at least another century. I sat down to make a sketch of it; and
+while I was drawing, learned from Mr. Galway the following history of
+the family of its owner, which a little skill in language and a little
+adorning with sentiment might convert into a modern novel.--About the
+year 1760, the Marquis Franqui, upon some disgust, made over his estates
+in trust to his brother, and emigrated to France, where he remained
+until 1810, regularly receiving the proceeds from his estates in
+Teneriffe. Meantime, during the early period of the revolution, he
+married; and his only child, a daughter, was born. This marriage,
+however, was only a civil contract, such being then the law of France,
+and with a woman divorced from another, who was still living. But
+neither the validity of the union nor the legitimacy of the child was
+ever questioned; and the Marquis Franqui returning to his native
+country, brought with him his daughter, introducing and treating her as
+his heiress. She appeared to be received as such by his family; and at
+his death he appointed trustworthy guardians to her and her estates, one
+of whom is her husband's father. No sooner, however, was the Marquis
+dead, than his brother claimed his property, alleging that the church
+had never sanctioned the Marquis's marriage, and that the daughter
+consequently, as an illegitimate child, could have no claim on his
+estates. He therefore commenced a lawsuit against her and her guardians,
+and the suit is still pending. Meantime the court receives the rents;
+the garden, the chief ornament of the town, is running wild, and the
+house is deserted.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The dragon tree is the slowest of growth among vegetables; it seems also
+to be slowest in decay. In the 15th century, that of Oratava had
+attained the height and size which it boasted till 1819. It may have
+been in its prime for centuries before; and scarcely less than a
+thousand years must have elapsed, before it attained its full size.
+Excepting the dragon trees at Madeira, the only many-headed palm I had
+seen before was that at Mazagong in Bombay. It is crowned, however, with
+a leaf like that of the palmetto; but the tufts of the dragon tree
+resemble the yucca in growth. The palm tree at Mazagong, like the
+adansonia in Salsette, is reported to have been carried thither by a
+pilgrim from Africa, probably from Upper Egypt, where late travellers
+mention this palm.
+
+On our return from the garden to Don Antonio's house, we were most
+kindly received by his wife and daughter, the latter of whom played a
+long and difficult piece of music most excellently. It was, however,
+English, in compliment to us, though we should have preferred some of
+her own national airs. After the music, we were conducted to a table
+spread in the gallery that surrounds the open court in the middle of the
+house, and covered with fruits, sweetmeats, and wines, which were
+pressed upon us most hospitably; till finding it time to return, the
+ladies both embraced me, and we began our journey down the hill, having
+first looked into the churches, which are spacious and handsome, a good
+deal in the style of those of Madeira, but finer.
+
+As we rode along, we observed a large Dominican convent, the only one
+now on the island. The recent law passed by the Spanish Cortes for the
+suppression of religious houses, has been strictly enforced here. No
+more than one convent of each denomination is allowed to subsist, and
+great checks are put on the profession of new members. As to the
+revolution here, the inhabitants had known from authentic though not
+official authority of what had taken place in the mother country, three
+weeks before they received any notification from either court or cortes.
+When notice did arrive, the magistrates assembled the people, read their
+orders, and took their oaths to support the cortes; the people shouted,
+and made a bonfire: next day the forms of law and justice were declared
+to be changed, the tribunals proceeded accordingly, and all was over and
+quiet.
+
+The Canary Islands boast of two bishoprics, both of which are now
+vacant, yet have not one newspaper. The only printing press has been so
+long in disuse that there is nobody who can work it in the country. I
+could not learn that there are any manufactures in Teneriffe; if there
+are, I conclude they must be in the neighbourhood of Laguna or Santa
+Cruz. Oratava appears to be the district of corn and wine.
+
+We returned to the port by a longer road than that by which we left it.
+In the hedges, the boys, with no small delight, gathered fine ripe
+black-berries, which were growing among prickly pear and other tropical
+plants. The fields, vineyards, and orchards we had seen from the former
+road we now passed through; and as it was a _fiesta_, we saw the
+peasants in their best attire, and their little mud huts cleanly swept
+and garnished. They seem gentle and lively, not much darker than the
+natives of the south of Europe; and if there be a mixture of Guanche
+blood, it is said to be traced in the high cheek-bones, narrow chins,
+and slender hands and feet which in a few districts seem to indicate a
+different race of men. I regret that I had not time to see more of the
+people and the country; but not being travellers from curiosity, and
+belonging to a service that may not swerve from the strictest obedience,
+we dared not even think of a farther excursion.
+
+Halfway down the hill, we entered a ravine, the dry bed of a winter
+torrent, where there were rue, lavender, prickly pear, hypericum, and
+spurge; but not a blade of grass had survived the summer's drought. We
+passed a heap of black ashes, which anywhere but at the base of the peak
+would be called a respectable mountain. It has not been cold long enough
+to be disguised by vegetation; and though on one side the vine is
+beginning to clothe its rugged surface, yet the greater part is
+frightfully barren. Shortly after we passed it, we arrived at Mr.
+Galway's garden-house, and found his lady, a Spaniard of Irish
+extraction, ready to receive us. As I had seen in some old Scotch
+houses, the best bed-chamber served as drawing-room; but the
+dressing-room is apart, and from the front there is an opening to a
+pleasant terrace, commanding a charming view. Our dinner was a mixture
+of English and Spanish cookery and customs: the Spanish part consisted
+of part of a Darter, a very fine fish, white, but resembling a salmon
+in taste, with sauce made of small lobsters, oil, vinegar, garlic, and
+pimento; some excellent stews, and mixtures of vegetables and quails
+roasted in vine leaves; the rest were all English; and the wines, the
+growth of the island, and ices[40] were delicious. Neither the
+pine-apple nor water-melon grow in Teneriffe, but abundance of the
+latter are brought from Grand Canary. All the common garden fruits of
+Europe flourish here; but too little attention is paid to horticulture.
+This island, or at least the part I have seen, evidently belongs to a
+state that has once been great; but is now too poor or too weak to
+foster its foreign possessions. Some fine houses begun are in an
+unfinished state, and appear to have been so for years; others, though
+falling, are neither rebuilt nor repaired; and the only things like
+present prosperity, are the neat English country-houses.
+
+[Note 40: The ice is procured from a large cavern near the cone of
+the peak; it is almost full of the finest ice all the year round.]
+
+It was sunset before we reached the boats that were to convey us to the
+ship; and we had some difficulty both in getting off and in going
+alongside of the frigate, owing to the great swell. The night, however,
+was fine, and the scene enlivened by the lights in the fishing boats,
+which, like those in the Mediterranean, are used to attract the fish. On
+shore, the lights of the ports and villa, and the fires of the charcoal
+burners shining from amidst the dark hanging forests of pine, and those
+of the limekilns in the direction of Laguna, appeared like a brilliant
+illumination; and there being not a cloud, the outline of the peak was
+well defined on the deep blue of the nocturnal sky.
+
+27th _August_. To-day, some of our new friends, both Spanish and
+English, came on board; but the swell was so great, that only one
+escaped sea-sickness. Mrs. Galway was fearful of suffering, so did not
+come, but she sent me some of the beads found in the sepulchres of the
+Guanches: they are of hard baked clay. Mr. Humboldt, whose imagination
+was naturally full of South America, has conjectured that they might
+have been used for the same purpose as the Peruvian _quipos_, but they
+are inconveniently large for that use. They are not unlike the beads
+Belzoni found in the mummy pits in Egypt, and they closely resemble some
+of the many kinds of beads with which the Bramins have counted their
+muntras time immemorial. The Oriental custom of dropping a bead for
+every prayer having been adopted by the Christians of the west, and
+still continuing in Roman Catholic countries, appears, on that account,
+too common to deserve the notice of a philosophical traveller; and
+therefore the Guanche shepherds, or goatherd kings, are rather supposed,
+like the polished Peruvians, to have recorded the annals of their reigns
+with clay beads, than allowed to tell them with their orisons, like the
+Bramins of the Ganges, the shepherds of Mesopotamia, or the anchorets of
+Palestine and Egypt, because the modern monk does the same. The Guanche
+mummies are now of very rare occurrence. During the early times of the
+Spanish government of the island, their sepulchres were carefully
+concealed by the natives; now, intermarriage with their conquerors, and
+consequent change of religion and habits, have rendered them careless of
+them, and they are, generally speaking, really forgotten, and only
+discovered accidentally in planting a new vineyard, or ploughing a new
+field.
+
+28th. This morning left the "still vext" bay of Oratava, and before
+sunset saw Palma and Gomera. The Canary Islands, supposed to be the
+Fortunate Islands of the ancients, were discovered accidentally in 1405.
+Betancour, a Frenchman, took possession of them for Spain; but the
+natives were brave, and it cost both the Spaniards and Portuguese, who
+possessed them by turns, much blood and treasure to conquer the country
+and exterminate the people, for their wars ended in nothing less.
+Purchas complains that he could not obtain the reading of some travels
+by an Englishman who had visited the Peak; the good pilgrim's curiosity
+had been strongly excited by the particulars he had learnt from books,
+and the journals of some of his friends who had travelled, which he has
+carefully related: they are such as to make me regret that he has not
+recorded more, and that I cannot see more. We brought with us from
+Oratava one of the finest goats I ever saw; I presume she was a
+descendant of the original flock which the supreme deity of the Guanches
+created to be the property of the kings alone: she is brown, with very
+long twisted horns, a very remarkable white beard, and the largest udder
+I ever saw.
+
+29th. Passed the island of Hierro or Ferro, the old first meridian;
+which honour, I presume, it enjoyed from having been considered as the
+most western land in the world until the discovery of America. We were
+very close to it, and all agreed that we never saw so hard-looking and
+inaccessible a place. We saw some fine woods, a few scattered houses,
+and one village perched upon a hill, at least 1500 feet above us. The
+Peak of Teneriffe still visible above the clouds.
+
+_Sept._ 1st. The flying-fish are become very numerous, and whole fleets
+of medusæ have passed us; some we have picked up, besides a very
+beautiful purple sea-snail. This fish has four horns, like a snail, the
+shell is very beautifully tinted with purple, and there is a spongy
+substance attached to the fish which I thought assisted it to swim: it
+is larger in bulk than the whole fish. One of them gave out fully a
+quarter of an ounce of purple fluid from the lower part of the fish. A
+fine yellow locust and a swallow flew on board; and as we believe
+ourselves to be four hundred miles from the nearest land, Cape Blanco,
+we cannot enough admire the structure of the wings that have borne them
+so far.
+
+Our school for the ship's boys is now fairly established, and does Mr.
+Hyslop, our school-master, great credit; that for the midshipmen is
+going on very well, being kept in the fore-cabin under the captain's
+eye. The boys have his presence, not only as a check to idleness or
+noise, but as an encouragement to industry. He is most anxious to make
+them fit to be officers and seamen in their profession, and good men and
+gentlemen both at sea and on shore. Happily they are all promising; but
+if G---- should disappoint us, I never will believe in youthful talent,
+industry, or goodness more. Our days pass swiftly, because busily. The
+regular business of the ship, the school, astronomical observations,
+study of history and modern languages, and nothing permitted to pass
+without observation, fill our time completely.
+
+Lord Bacon says, "It is a strange thing that in sea voyages, where there
+is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in
+land travel, wherein so much is to be observed, for the most part they
+omit it, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation."
+However, for once, his lordship has only seen, or perhaps only spoken,
+in part. Sea and sky must be observed before we can know the laws by
+which their great changes or chances are regulated. Observations on the
+works of man, as cities, courts, &c. may be omitted, for we know their
+authors, and can have recourse to them, their motives, and their
+history, whenever we please; but the great operations of nature are so
+above us, that we must humbly mark them, and endeavour to make their
+history a part of our experience, in order that we pass safely through
+their vicissitudes. Hence it is, that the commonest details of the early
+navigators, their sunrise and sunset, their daily portionings of food
+and water, are read with a deeper interest than the liveliest tour
+through civilised countries and populous cities; that Byron's passage
+through Chiloe continues to excite the most profound sympathy; while
+Moore's lively view of society and manners in France or Italy, are now
+seldom or languidly read. The uncertainty, the mystery of nature, keep
+up a perpetual curiosity; but I suspect that if we knew the progress and
+dependance of her operations, as well as we do those of an architect or
+brick-layer, the history of the building of a theatre or a
+dwelling-house might vie in interest with that of a sea voyage.
+
+The books we intend our boys to read are,--history, particularly that of
+_Greece_, _Rome_, _England_, and _France_; an outline of general
+history, voyages, and discoveries; some poetry, and general literature,
+in French and English; Delolme, with the concluding chapter of
+Blackstone on the history of the law and the constitution of England;
+and afterwards the first volume of Blackstone, Bacon's Essays, and
+Paley. We have only three years to work in; and as the _business_ of
+their life is to learn their profession, including mathematics,
+algebra, nautical astronomy, theory and practice of seamanship, and duty
+as officers, with all the _technicalities_ belonging to it,--this is all
+we dare propose.
+
+5th. We have begun to look forward to that festival of the seamen, the
+crossing the line. I know not whence the custom is derived, but the
+Arabs observe it with ceremonies not very unlike those practised by our
+own sailors. To-day a letter, containing a sketch of the intended
+festival, with thanks for permission to keep it, was sent into the
+cabin. I shall copy it with its answer. I find that some captains have
+begun to give money at the next port, instead of permitting this day of
+misrule. Perhaps they may be right, and perhaps in time it may be
+forgotten; but will it be better that it should be so? It is the
+sailors' only festival; and I like a festival: it gives the heart room
+to play. The head in one class, and the limbs in another, work every
+day, and in divers, if not opposite directions; but on a festival, the
+hearts of all beat the same way: yet I would not have them too often,
+for
+
+    "If every day were playing holiday,
+    To sport would be as tedious as to work;"
+
+the converse of the proverb, "All work and no play, makes Jack a dull
+boy." But to our letters.
+
+"The sons of Neptune, of His Majesty's ship Doris, commanded by Captain
+T.G., return their most grateful thanks for his kind condescension for
+granting them the favour that has been allowed to them from time
+immemorial, in crossing the Equinoctial, on our Old Father Neptune's
+dominions, when we hope the characters will meet your Honour's
+approbation, which will appear in the margin.
+
+Thomas Clark, quarter-master,          --     Neptune.
+J. Ware, forecastle,                   --     Amphitrite.
+W. Knight,                             --     Amphitrite's Son.
+W. Sullivan, 2d captain main-top,      --     Triton.
+C. Brisbane (_negro_),                 --     Triton's Horse.
+J. Thompson, gunner's mate,            --     High Sheriff.
+J. White, forecastle,                  --     Sub Sheriff.
+W. Sinclair, captain forecastle,       --     Barber.
+J. Smith, J. Forster, Michael Jaque,   --    Barber's Mates.
+J. Gaggin,                             --     Clerk.
+W. Bird, captain fore-top,             --     Chief Constable.
+Nine assistants.
+J. Duncan, boatswain's mate,           --     Coachman.
+J. Clark,                              --     Postilion.
+J. Leath,                              --     Footman.
+J. Speed,                              --     Painter.
+W. Lundy,                              --     Bottle-holder.
+W. Williamson,                         --     Satan.
+J. Williams,                           --     Judge Advocate.
+Eight Sea-horses.
+
+"So we have given you as good a relation as possibly our weak abilities
+afford us; and, honoured Captain, believe us when we say, we wish you
+every happiness this life can afford, and your honoured lady entirely
+included, and believe us yours, &c. &c. &c.
+
+"BRITTON'S SONS."
+
+_Answer._
+
+"I received your letter with the list of characters that are to appear
+in Father Neptune's train on our crossing the line, of which I
+completely approve. I have to thank you for your kind wishes both for
+Mrs. G---- and myself, and to assure you, that the greatest pleasure I
+can feel in the command of this ship, will be in promoting the happiness
+and comfort of the whole of Britain's sons on board the Doris.
+
+"Believe me your sincere friend,
+THOS. G----,
+
+"H.M.S. Doris, at Sea, Sept 5th, 1821.
+To Britain's Sons, H.M.S. Doris."
+
+It would be worth while to enquire into the origin of the merry-making
+on crossing the line. As the Arabs, an astronomical people, have it, it
+has probably some reference to their now-forgotten worship of the
+heavenly bodies. Like us, they set on fire some combustible matter or
+other, and let it float away, but they add some food to it, as if there
+had once been a sacrifice accompanying the festival. Such, at least, I
+have been assured by several gentleman well acquainted with the Arab
+traders in the Eastern sea, is their practice.
+
+18th. We have done nothing but sail on with very variable weather, for
+the last thirteen days.
+
+    "From world to world our steady course we keep,
+    Swift as the winds along the waters sweep,
+    Mid the mute nations of the purple deep."
+
+One night we observed that luminous appearance of the sea so often
+described, but it was not so brilliant as I remember to have seen it
+near the same latitude. The next morning we found the temperature of the
+sea, at the surface, two degrees higher than that of the atmosphere.
+Last night at 8 P. M. we crossed the line: to-day, accordingly, our
+Saturnalian festival took place.
+
+About six o'clock P. M. yesterday, the officer of the watch was informed
+that there was a boat with lights alongside, and begged to shorten sail.
+The captain immediately went on deck, and Neptune hailed from the fore
+part of the rigging, "What ship?" "Doris." "Who commands?" "Captain T.
+G." "Where from?" "Whitehall." "Where bound?" "A man of war's cruize."
+Upon which Triton mounted upon a sea-horse, admirably represented,
+appeared as bearer of a letter containing the names of all who had not
+yet crossed the line, and who were consequently to be initiated into the
+mysteries of the Water God. Triton having thus executed his commission,
+rode off, and was seen no more till 8 o'clock this morning, when Neptune
+being announced, the captain went on deck to receive him.
+
+First came Triton mounted as before, then a company of sea-gods or
+constables dressed in oakum and swabs, but having their arms and
+shoulders bare, excepting the paint which bedaubed them. Neptune with
+trident and crown, Amphitrite by his side, and their son at their feet,
+appeared in a car drawn by eight sea-horses, and driven by a sea god:
+the train followed in the persons of the lawyers, barbers, and painters.
+The whole pageant was well dressed, and going in procession, fully as
+picturesque as any antique triumphal or religious ceremony; the fine
+forms of some of the actors struck me exceedingly. I never saw marble
+more beautiful than some of the backs and shoulders displayed; and the
+singular clothing to imitate fishes instead of legs, and seaweed skirts,
+which they had all adopted, carried one back for centuries, to the time
+when all this was religion.
+
+After the progress round the decks, a conference with the captain, and a
+libation in the form of a glass of brandy, to which the god and goddess
+vied with each other in devotion, the merriment began. Mock-shaving, or
+a fine paid, was necessary to admit the new comers to the good graces of
+their watery father; and while he was superintending the business, all
+the rest of the ship's company, officers and all, proceeded to duck each
+other unmercifully. None but women escaped, and that only by staying in
+my cabin. The officer of the watch, sentries, quartermasters, and such
+as are absolutely necessary to look after the ship, are of course held
+sacred; so that some order is still preserved. It seemed really that
+"madness ruled the hour;" but at the appointed moment, half past eleven,
+all ceased: by noon, every body was at his duty, the decks were dried,
+and the ship restored to her wonted good order. The whole of our gunroom
+officers dine with us, and we flatter ourselves that we shall end the
+day as happily as we have begun it.[41]
+
+[Note 41: Frezier, who crossed the line, March 5th, 1712, says,
+"When it was no longer to be doubted that we were to the southward of
+the line, the foolish ceremony practised by all nations was not omitted.
+
+"The persons to be so served are seized by the wrists, to ropes
+stretched fore and aft on the second deck for the officers, and before
+the mast for the sailors; and after much mummery and monkey tricks, they
+are let loose, to be led after one another to the main mast, where they
+are made to swear on a sea chart that they will do by others as is done
+by them, according to the laws and statutes of navigation: then they pay
+to save being wetted, but always in vain, for the captains themselves
+are not quite spared."
+
+Jaques le Maire, the first who sailed round Cape Horn, mentions in his
+Journal, 8th July, 1615, baptizing the sailors when he arrived at the
+_Barrels_.--Has this any thing in common with the ceremony of crossing
+the line?]
+
+20th. The long tiresome calms, and the beautiful moonlight nights near
+the equator, have been talked of, and written of, till we know all about
+them. Mention but passing the line, and you conjure up a wide,
+apparently interminable, glassy dull sea: sails flapping, a solitary
+bird sinking with heat, or a shark rising lazily to catch a bait; or, at
+best, a calm warm night, with a soft moonlight silvering over the
+_treacherous_ deep, and rendering the beholders, who ought to be lovers
+if they are not, insensible of the rocks that may lurk below.--But our's
+was not the _beau idéal_ of crossing the line: we had fresh breezes in
+the day, and thunder and lightning at night; saw few tropic birds, and
+those very vigorous, and fish more nimble than sharks, or even sun-fish,
+of which, however, we met a due proportion. I had once been in a
+tropical calm, and I really, after trying them both, prefer the breezes
+and thunder-storms. The other night we had one, such as Milton talks of:
+
+      "Either tropic now
+    'Gan thunder, and both ends of heav'n: the clouds
+    From many a horrid rift abortive poured
+    Fierce rain with lightning mixt, water with fire
+    In ruin reconciled; nor slept the winds
+    Within their stoney caves, but rush'd abroad
+    From the four hinges of the world, and fell
+    On the vext wilderness."
+
+I never see a thunder-storm at sea, but it reminds me of the vision of
+Ezekiel:
+
+     "The sapphire blaze,
+    Where angels tremble while they gaze."
+
+It is awful and grand every where: fearful in the plain, sublime among
+the mountains; but here, on the ocean, with nothing to intercept its
+bolt, the horrible is superadded, and he must be more or less than man
+that does not at least take thought during its continuance.
+
+_Friday, September 21st._ At length we are in sight of the coast of
+Brazil, which here is low and green, about two degrees to the northward
+of the point first discovered by Vincente Pinzon, in 1500.[42] The
+weather is very squally, and there is a heavy swell: we are anchored
+about eight miles from Olinda, the capital of Pernambuco, in fifteen
+fathoms water, but though we have fired more than one gun for a pilot,
+none seems to be coming off.
+
+[Note 42: Cabral first took possession of the country which he
+called _that of the Holy Cross_, for the crown of Portugal; Amerigo
+Vespucci 1504, called it Brazil, on account of the wood.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Pernambuco, September 22. 1821._--At nine o'clock the commodore of this
+place, whose office is a combination of port-admiral and commissioner,
+came on board with the harbour-master, and the ship was guided by the
+latter to the anchorage, which is about three miles from the town, in
+eight fathoms water. The roadstead is quite open, and we find here a
+very heavy swell. It is not wonderful that our guns were neither
+answered nor noticed last night. Mr. Dance, having been sent on shore
+with official letters to the governor and the acting English consul,
+found the place in a state of siege, and brought back with him Colonel
+Patronhe, the governor's aide-de-camp, who gave us the following account
+of the present state of Pernambuco:
+
+Besides the disposition to revolution, which we were aware had long
+existed in every part of Brazil, there was, also, a jealousy between the
+Portuguese and Brazilians, which recent events had increased in no small
+degree. On the 29th of August, about 600 men of the militia and other
+native forces had taken possession of the Villa of Goyana, one of the
+principal places in this captaincy, and had forcibly entered the
+town-house, where they had declared the government of Luiz do Rego to be
+at an end. They proceeded to elect a temporary provisional government
+for Goyana, to act until the capital of the province should be in a
+condition to establish a constitutional junta; and in order to
+accelerate that event, they had collected forces of every kind, and
+among them several companies of the Caçadores who had deserted from Luiz
+do Rego; with these troops, such as they are, they had marched towards
+Pernambuco, and last night they had attacked the two main points of
+Olinda, to the north, in four different places, and Affogados to the
+south. They were, however, repulsed by the royal troops, under the
+governor, with the loss of fourteen killed and thirty-five prisoners,
+while the royalists had two killed, and seven wounded. This morning the
+alarm of the town's people was increased by finding several armed men
+concealed in the belfreys of the churches, whither also they had
+conveyed several stands of arms. Luiz do Rego is a soldier, and attached
+to the royal cause. He served long with the English army in Portugal and
+Spain, and, if I mistake not, distinguished himself at the siege of St.
+Sebastian's. He is rather a severe man, and, especially among the
+soldiers, more feared than loved.--Great part of the regiment of
+Caçadores has left him to join the patriots, and formed the most
+efficient corps in the attack last night. The towns-people have been
+formed into a militia, tolerably armed and trained. The town is pretty
+well supplied with mandioc flour, jerked beef, and salt fish; but the
+besiegers prevent all fresh provisions from coming in. All shops are
+shut, and all food scarce and dear. Most people who have property of
+value, in plate or jewels, have packed it up, and lodged it in the
+houses of the English merchants. Many persons with their wives and
+families have left their homes in the out-skirts of the town, and have
+taken refuge with the English. The latter, who, for the most part,
+sleep, at least, in country houses in the neighbourhood, called sitios,
+have left them, and remain altogether at their counting-houses in the
+port: every thing, in short, is alarm and uncertainty.
+
+_23d._--The night passed quietly, and so indeed did the day. Many
+messages have passed between us and the land, but I could not go on
+shore: we have excellent oranges, and tolerable vegetables from the
+town, and have been quite enough amused in observing the curious little
+boats, canoes, catamarans and jangadas, that have been sailing, and
+paddling, and rowing round the ship. The jangada resembles nothing I
+have ever seen before; six or eight logs are made fast together by two
+transverse beams; at one end there is a raised seat, on which a man
+places himself to steer, for they are furnished with a sort of rudder;
+sometimes the seat is large enough to admit of two sitters, another
+bench at the foot of a mast, immense for the size of the raft, holds
+clothes and provisions, or an upright pole is fixed in one of the logs,
+to which these things are suspended, and a large triangular sail of
+cotton cloth completes the jangada, in which the hardy Brazilian sailor
+ventures to sea, the waves constantly washing over it, and carries
+cargoes of cotton or other goods, or, in case of necessity, letters and
+despatches, hundreds of miles in safety.
+
+About three o'clock a large canoe with two patriot officers came along
+side, to ascertain if we were really English; if we had come, as was
+reported, to assist the royalists, or if we would assist them: so apt
+are men, under the influence of strong feeling themselves, to doubt of
+perfect indifference in others, that I question much whether they
+believed in the strict neutrality we profess. They left us, however,
+without betraying any particular anxiety, and made a very circuitous
+passage home, in order to avoid the Recife cruizer, which was looking
+out for straggling boats or vessels of any description belonging to the
+patriots.
+
+_Monday the 24th._--Col. Patronhe arrived early this morning, to request
+that the English packet might put into Lisbon with the Government
+despatches. We felt glad that the strict rules of service prevented the
+captain from giving any such order to the master of the packet. It would
+be at once a breach of that neutrality we profess to observe, and, in my
+opinion, an aiding of the worst cause. The colonel, adverting to the
+town being in a state of siege, and the uncertainty of the next attack
+as to time and place, advised me strongly to stay altogether on board;
+but I had never seen a town in a state of siege, and therefore resolved
+to go ashore. Accordingly, Mr. Dance, being the only officer on board
+who speaks either Portuguese or French, was commissioned to accompany
+me; and I took two midshipmen, Grey and Langford, also to call on Madame
+do Rego.
+
+The name of Pernambuco, which is that of the captainship, is now
+generally applied to the capital, which consists of two parts; 1st, the
+city of Olinda, which was founded by the Portuguese, under Duarte Coelho
+Pedreiro, about 1530 or 1540, and, as its name implies, on a beautiful
+spot, where moderate, but abrupt hills, a fine river, and thick wood,
+combine to charm the eye; but the approach to it by sea must always have
+been difficult, if not dangerous: and, 2nd, the town of Recife de
+Pernambuco, or the Reef of Pernambuco, built by the Dutch, under Maurice
+of Nassau, and by them called Maurice Town. It is a singular spot, well
+fitted for trade; it is situated upon several sand banks, divided by
+salt water creeks and the mouth of two fresh water rivers, connected by
+three bridges, and divided into as many parts; Recife, properly so
+called, where are the castles of defence, and the dock-yard, and the
+traders; Sant Antonio, where are the government house, the two principal
+churches, one for the white and one for the black population; and Boa
+Vista, where the richer merchants, or more idle inhabitants, live among
+their gardens, and where convents, churches, and the bishop's palace,
+give an air of importance to the very neat town around them.
+
+All this I knew before I landed, and thought I was pretty well prepared
+for Pernambuco. But no previous knowledge could do away the wonder with
+which one must enter that very extraordinary port. From the ship, which
+is anchored three miles from the town, we see that vessels lie within a
+reef on which the sea is perpetually breaking, but till I was actually
+within that reef, I had not the least idea of the nature of the harbour:
+the swell going ashore would have seemed tremendous, had we not been
+prepared for it, and made our passage of three miles a very long one. We
+approached the sandy beach between Recife and Olinda so nearly, that I
+thought we were going to land there; when coming abreast of a tower on a
+rock, where the sea was breaking violently, we turned short round, and
+found ourselves within a marvellous natural break-water, heard the surf
+dashing without, and saw the spray, but we ourselves were sailing along
+smoothly and calmly, as if in a mill-pond. The rock of which the reef is
+formed, is said to be coral; but it is so coated with barnacle and
+limpet above barnacle and limpet, that I can see nothing but the
+remainder of these shells for many feet down, and as deep into the rock
+as our hammers will break. It extends from a good way to the northward
+of Paraiba to Olinda, where it sinks under water, and then rises
+abruptly at Recife, and runs on to Cape St. Augustine, where it is
+interrupted by the bold granite head, that shoots through it into the
+ocean: it then reappears, and continues, interruptedly, towards the
+south. The breadth of the harbour here between the reef and the main
+land varies from a few fathoms to three quarters of a mile; the water is
+deep close to the rock, and there the vessels often moor. There is a bar
+at the entrance of the harbour, over which there is, in ordinary tides,
+sixteen feet water, so that ships of considerable burden lie here.[43]
+His Majesty's brig Alacrity lay some time within the reef; and two feet
+more water on the bar, would have enabled the Doris to have entered,
+though, as far as I have seen, there would be no room to turn about if
+she wished to go out again. The reef is certainly one of the wonders of
+the world; it is scarcely sixteen feet broad at top. It slopes off more
+rapidly than the Plymouth break-water, to a great depth on the outside,
+and is perpendicular within, to many fathoms. Here and there, a few
+inequalities at the top must formerly have annoyed the harbour in high
+tides or strong winds, but Count Maurice remedied this, by laying huge
+blocks of granite into the faulty places, and has thus rendered the top
+level, and the harbour safe at all times. The Count had intended to
+build warehouses along the reef, but his removal from the government
+prevented his doing so. A small fort near the entrance defends it, and
+indeed always must, so narrow and sudden is the passage. Near it, a
+light-house is in a fair way of being soon finished, at the very
+extremity of the reef, and these are the only two buildings on this
+extraordinary line of rock. We rowed up the harbour among vessels of all
+nations, with the town on one side, and the reef on the other, until we
+came to one of the wide creeks, over which the Dutch built a fine stone
+bridge, now in decay. We were a a good deal struck with the beauty of
+the scene; the buildings are pretty large, and white; the land low and
+sandy, spotted with bright green tufts of grass, and adorned with
+palm-trees. A few years ago a violent flood nearly destroyed the greater
+part of the centre of the bridge, yet the arches still serve to support
+light wooden galleries on each side of it, and the houses and gateways
+are still standing at either end. We landed pretty near the bridge, and
+were received by Colonel Patronhe, who apologised for the governor, who
+could not come to receive us, as he was in the council room.[44] The
+colonel conducted us to the government house, a very handsome building,
+with a square in front, and a tower, and we entered what had evidently
+been a splendid hall. The gilding and painting still remained on some
+parts of the ceiling and walls; but now it is occupied by horses
+standing ready saddled; soldiers armed, and ready to mount at a moment's
+warning; every thing on the alert; guns in front with lighted matches by
+them, and an air of bustle and importance among the soldiers, that
+excites a sort of sympathetic curiosity as to their possible and
+immediate destination. On going up stairs we found almost as much
+confusion: for the governor has hitherto lived in the very out-skirts of
+the town, and has but just come to the house in Sant Antonio, which was
+formerly the Jesuits' college, partly to be in the centre of business,
+and partly to secure his family, in case of accident, as the besiegers'
+out-posts are very near his former residence. I found Madame do Rego an
+agreeable, rather pretty woman, and speaking English like a native: for
+this she accounted, by informing me that her mother, the Viscondeça do
+Rio Seco, was an Irish woman. Nothing could be kinder and more
+flattering than her manner, and that of General do Rego's two daughters,
+whose air and manner are those of really well-bred women, and one of
+them is very handsome. After sitting some little time, refreshments were
+brought in, and shortly after, the governor himself appeared; a fine
+military-looking man. He appeared ill, being still suffering from the
+effects of a wound, he received some months ago, while walking through
+the town with a friend. It has since been ascertained, that the
+instigator of the crime was a certain Ouvidor (judge) whom he had
+displaced shortly after he assumed the government. The assassin fired
+twice; Luiz do Rego received several shots and slugs in his body, but
+the most severe wound was in his left arm. His friend's life was for
+some time despaired of, but both are now nearly well. At the time the
+crime was committed, the perpetrator was seized more than once by some
+of the bye-standers; but as often, a baker's basket was pushed in
+between him and whoever seized him; he threw away his pistols and
+escaped.[45]
+
+[Note 43: In 1816, under the governor, Monte Negro, the harbour was
+cleared and deepened, and particularly the bar.]
+
+[Note 44: The council or junta of provisional government consisted
+of ten members, of which Luiz do Rego was the head; they were drawing up
+an address to the inhabitants of Recife, assuring them of safety and
+protection; exulting in the advantage gained in the night, and asserting
+that there were plenty of provisions within the town; and encouraging
+them in the name of the king and cortes, to defend the city against the
+insurgents, who were of course branded with the names of enemies to the
+king and country.]
+
+[Note 45: Luiz do Rego was not the first governor of Pernambuco who
+had been shot at. In 1710, when Sebastian de Castro, in conformity to
+his orders from Lisbon, had erected a pillar, and declared Recife a
+town, San Antonio da Recife, the Olindrians shot him on his walk to Boa
+Vista, in four places. The Ouvidor was one of the conspirators. The
+bishop had a share in this unchristian action. The object of the people
+of Olinda and of the assassin's party was, to confine Recife to its own
+parish, extending only to the Affogados on one side, and Fort Brun on
+the other.]
+
+Having paid our visit, we proceeded to walk about the town. The streets
+are paved partly with blueish pebbles from the beach, partly with red or
+grey granite. The houses are three or four stories high, built of a
+whitish stone, and all are white-washed, with door-posts and
+window-frames of brown stone. The ground floor consists of shops, or
+lodging for the negroes, and stables: the floor above is generally
+appropriated to counting-houses and ware-rooms; and the dwelling-house
+still higher, the kitchen being universally at the top, by which means
+the lower part of the house is kept cool, I was surprised to find it so
+possible to walk out without inconvenience from the heat, so near the
+equator; but the constant sea-breeze, which sets in here every day at
+ten o'clock, preserves a temperature, under which it is at all times
+possible to take exercise. The hot time of day is from eight, when the
+land breeze fails, to ten. As we were to pass the stone bridge on our
+way back to the boat, which was ordered to meet us at the point of
+Recife, because the receding tide would have left it dry in the creek
+where we landed; we left it on one hand, and walked through Sant Antonio
+towards Boa Vista. When we came to the wooden bridge, 350 paces long,
+connecting it with Sant Antonio, we found that it had been cut through
+the middle, and is only now passable by means of two planks easily
+withdrawn, in case the besiegers should get possession of Boa Vista.
+Nothing can be prettier of its kind than the fresh green landscape, with
+its broad river winding through it, which is seen on each hand from the
+bridge, and the white buildings of the treasury and mint, the convents,
+and private houses, most of which have gardens. The verdure is
+delightful to an English eye; and I doubt not that the flat meadows, and
+slowly-flowing water, were particularly attractive to the Dutch founders
+of Recife. We walked back by the stone bridge, 280 paces long, as we
+intended; in vain did we look for shops; not one was open, the
+shopkeepers being all on military duty. They form the militia, and, as
+many of them are from Europe, and as they all expect to be plundered
+should the country Brazilians take the town by force, they are most
+zealous in their attendance as soldiers.
+
+At each end of every street we found a light gun, and at the heads of
+the bridges two, with lighted matches by them, and at each post we were
+challenged by the guard. At the end of the stone bridge, at the ponte
+dos tres pontes[46], next to Recife, the guards are more numerous and
+strict. In this quarter, the chief riches of the place are lodged, and
+that is the point most easily defended. It is very nearly surrounded
+with water, the houses are high, strongly built, and close together, the
+streets being very narrow, and the strong gateways at each end of the
+bridge might secure time to demolish it entirely, and thus render that
+part of the town secure, except by the sand bank communicating with
+Olinda, and that is guarded by two considerable forts.
+
+[Note 46: A little fort which defends the entrance to Recife.]
+
+We had hardly gone fifty paces into Recife, when we were absolutely
+sickened by the first sight of a slave-market. It was the first time
+either the boys or I had been in a slave-country; and, however strong
+and poignant the feelings may be at home, when imagination pictures
+slavery, they are nothing compared to the staggering sight of a
+slave-market. It was thinly stocked, owing to the circumstances of the
+town; which cause most of the owners of new slaves to keep them closely
+shut up in the depôts. Yet about fifty young creatures, boys and girls,
+with all the appearance of disease and famine consequent upon scanty
+food and long confinement in unwholesome places, were sitting and lying
+about among the filthiest animals in the streets. The sight sent us home
+to the ship with the heart-ache: and resolution, "not loud but deep,"
+that nothing in our power should be considered too little, or too great,
+that can tend to abolish or to alleviate slavery.
+
+_27th._--I went on shore to-day to spend a few days with Miss S., the
+only English lady in the town. She is now living in her brother's
+town-house, where the office and warehouses are, because the
+country-house is within reach of the patriots. I do long to walk or ride
+out to the tempting green hills beyond the town; but as that cannot be,
+I must content myself with what is within the lines. To-day, as we were
+coming in from Boa Vista, we met a family of Certanejos, who had brought
+provisions into the town some days ago, returning home to the Certam, or
+wild country of the interior. These Certanejos are a hardy, active set
+of men, mostly agriculturists. They bring corn and pulse, bacon and
+sweetmeats, to the sea-coast, hides and tallow also at times. But the
+sugar, cotton, and coffee, which form the staple exports of Pernambuco,
+require the warmer, richer lands, nearer the coast. Cotton is, however,
+brought from the Certam, but it is a precarious crop, depending entirely
+on the quantity of rain in the season; and it sometimes does not rain in
+the Certam for two years. The party we met formed a very picturesque
+groupe, the men clad in leather from head to foot, of which their light
+jerkin and close pantaloons are fitted as closely as the clothing on the
+Egina marbles, and have something of the same effect: the small round
+hat is in the form of Mercury's petasus; and the shoes and gaiters of
+the greater number are excellently adapted to defend the legs and feet
+in riding through the thickets. The colour of all this is a fine tan
+brown. I was vexed that the woman of the party wore a dress evidently of
+French fashion: it spoiled the unity of the groupe. She was mounted
+behind the principal man, on one of the small active horses of the
+country; several sumpter horses followed, laden with household goods and
+other things in exchange for their provisions: cloths, both woollen and
+cotton, coarse crockery, and other manufactured articles, especially
+knives, are what they chiefly take in barter; though I saw some
+furniture, with pretensions to elegance, among the stuff of the family I
+met. After the horses came a groupe of men, some walking and keeping
+pace with the amble of the beasts; others riding and carrying the
+children; the procession being closed by a very stout good-looking man,
+smoking as he went along, and distinguished by a pair of green baize
+trowsers.
+
+In the evening we rode out; whether it was because we had been so many
+weeks on board ship, and without horse-exercise, or because of the
+peculiar sweetness and freshness of evening after the sultry tropical
+day we had just passed, I know not, but I never enjoyed an hour in the
+open air so much. We rode out of the town by some pretty country-houses,
+called _sitios_, to one of the out-posts at Mondego, which was formerly
+the governor's residence. The tamarind, the silk-cotton tree[47], and
+the palm, shaded us, and a thousand elegant shrubs adorned the garden
+walls. It is impossible to describe the fresh delicious feel of such an
+evening, giving repose and health after the fiery day. We were very
+sorry when obliged to return home; but the sun was gone, there was no
+moon, and we were afraid that the guards at the various posts of defence
+might stop us. As we came back, we were challenged at every station; but
+the words, _amigos ingresos_ were our passport, and we got to Recife
+just as the evening hymn was singing, harshly and unmusically enough, by
+the negroes and mulattoes in the streets; but yet every thing that
+unites men in one common sentiment is interesting. The church doors were
+open, the altars illuminated, and the very slave felt that he was
+addressing the same Deity, by the same privilege with his master. It is
+an evening I can never forget.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 47: Bombex pentandrium. _Jaquin._]
+
+_28th._--This morning before breakfast, looking from the balcony of Mr.
+S.'s house, I saw a white woman, or rather fiend, beating a young
+negress, and twisting her arms cruelly while the poor creature screamed
+in agony, till our gentlemen interfered. Good God! that such a traffic,
+such a practice as that of slavery, should exist. Near the house there
+are two or three depôts of slaves, all young; in one, I saw an infant of
+about two years old, for sale. Provisions are now so scarce that no bit
+of animal food ever seasons the paste of mandioc flour, which is the
+sustenance of slaves: and even of this, these poor children, by their
+projecting bones and hollow cheeks, show that they seldom get a
+sufficiency. Now, money also is so scarce, that a purchaser is not
+easily found, and one pang is added to slavery: the unavailing wish of
+finding a master! Scores of these poor creatures are seen at different
+corners of the streets, in all the listlessness of despair--and if an
+infant attempts to crawl from among them, in search of infantile
+amusement, a look of pity is all the sympathy he excites. Are the
+patriots wrong? They have put arms into the hands of the _new_ negroes,
+while the recollection of their own country, and of the slave-ship, and
+of the slave-market, is fresh in their memory.
+
+I walked to-day to the market-place, where there is but little;--beef
+scarce and dear, no mutton, a little poultry, and a few pigs,
+disgusting, because they feed in the streets where every thing is
+thrown, and where they and the dogs are the only scavengers. The
+blockade is so strict, that even the vegetables from the gentlemen's
+private gardens, two miles from the out-posts, are detained. No milk is
+to be had, bread of American flour is at least twice as dear as in
+England, and the cakes of mandioc baked with cocoa nut juice, too dear
+for the common people to afford a sufficiency even of them. Fire-wood
+is extravagantly high, charcoal scarce. The negroes keep the markets: a
+few on their own account, more on that of their masters. The dress of
+the free negroes is like that of the creole Portuguese; a linen jacket
+and trowsers, or on days of ceremony one of cloth, and a straw hat,
+furnish forth either a black or a white gentleman. The women, in-doors,
+wear a kind of frock which leaves the bosom much exposed. When they walk
+out they wear either a cloak or mantle; this cloak is often of the
+gayest colours; shoes also, which are the mark of freedom, are to be
+seen of every hue, but black. Gold chains for the neck and arms, and
+gold ear-rings, with a flower in the hair, complete a Pernambucan
+woman's dress. The new negroes, men and women, have nothing but a cloth
+round their loins. When they are bought, it is usual to give the women a
+shift and petticoat, and the men at least trowsers, but this is very
+often omitted.
+
+Yesterday the motley head-dresses of the Portuguese inhabitants were
+seen to great advantage, in a sally through the streets, made by a kind
+of supplementary militia to enforce the closing of all shop-doors, and
+the shutting up of all slaves, on an alarm that the enemy was attacking
+the town to the southward. The officer leading the party was indeed
+dressed _en militaire_, with a drawn sword in one hand, and a pistol in
+the other. Then followed a company that Falstaff would hardly have
+enlisted, armed in a suitable manner, with such caps and hats as became
+the variety of trades to which the wearers belonged, the rear being
+brought up by a most singular figure, with a small drum-shaped black cap
+on the very top of a stiff pale head, a long oil-skin cloak, and in his
+left hand a huge Toledo ready drawn, which he carried upright. The
+militia are better dressed, and are now employed in regular turn of duty
+with the royal troops, who are going over to the patriots daily.
+
+Calling at the palace this forenoon, we learned that a hundred Indians
+are expected in the town, by way of assistance to the garrison. They
+wear their aboriginal dress, and are armed with slings, bows, and
+arrows. We are told their ideas of government consist in believing that
+implicit obedience is due both to king and priests. Brandy is the bribe
+for which they will do any thing; a dram of that liquor and a handful of
+mandioc flour being all the food they require when they come down to the
+port.
+
+This evening, as there are no horses to be hired here, we borrowed some
+from our English and French friends, and rode to Olinda by the long
+sandy isthmus, which connects it with Recife. This is the isthmus
+fortified with a palisade, by Sir John Lancaster, during his stay at
+Recife, which he plundered.[48] The beach is defended by two castles,
+sufficiently strong when their situation is considered; on one side a
+furious surf breaking at their base, on the other a deep estuary and
+flat ground beyond, so that they cannot be commanded. The sand is
+partially covered by shrubs; one is very splendid with thick leaves and
+purple bell-shaped flowers; many are like those of the eastern world;
+many are quite new to me. I was surprised at the extreme beauty of
+Olinda, or rather of its remains, for it is now in a melancholy state of
+ruin. All the richer inhabitants have long settled in the lower town.
+The revenues of the bishopric being now claimed by the crown, and the
+monasteries suppressed for the most part, even the factitious splendour
+caused by the ecclesiastical courts and inhabitants is no more. The very
+college where the youths received some sort of education, however
+imperfect, is nearly ruined[49], and there is scarcely a house of any
+size standing.
+
+[Note 48: See Introduction, p. 20.]
+
+[Note 49: This was the Jesuits' college founded under the
+administration of the admirable father Nobrega, and his companion De
+Gram. Here at eighteen years' old the celebrated Viera read lectures on
+rhetoric, and composed those commentaries on some of the classics, which
+were unfortunately lost in the course of the civil wars.]
+
+Olinda is placed on a few small hills, whose sides are in some
+directions broken down, so as to present the most abrupt and picturesque
+rock-scenery. These are embosomed in dark woods that seem coeval with
+the land itself: tufts of slender palms, here and there the broad head
+of an ancient mango, or the gigantic arms of the wide spreading
+silk-cotton tree, rise from out the rest in the near ground, and break
+the line of forest: amidst these, the convents, the cathedral, the
+bishop's palace, and the churches of noble, though not elegant
+architecture, are placed in stations which a Claude or a Poussin might
+have chosen for them; some stand on the steep sides of rocks, some on
+lawns that slope gently to the sea-shore: their colour is grey or pale
+yellow, with reddish tiles, except here and there where a dome is
+adorned with porcelain tiles of white and blue. Just as we reached the
+highest point of the town, looking across the woody bason round which
+the hills are grouped, the smoke from one of the out-posts caught our
+sight. The soldiers were standing or lying around, and their arms piled
+by them: they were just shadowed by tall trees behind, between whose
+trunks the scattered rays of the setting sun shed such a partial light
+as Salvator Rosa himself would not have disdained. These same soldiers,
+however, circumscribed our ride: we had intended to return by the inland
+road, but were not allowed to pass into it, as part, at least, lies
+without the posts, therefore we were obliged to return by the way we
+came.
+
+At the spot where the present guard is placed, and where indeed a strong
+guard is peculiarly necessary, the river Bibiriba falls into the
+æstuary, which was formerly the port of Olinda. A dam is built across
+with flood-gates which are occasionally opened; and on the dam there is
+a very pretty open arcade, where the neighbouring inhabitants were
+accustomed in peaceable times to go in the evening, and eat, drink, and
+dance. It is from this dam that all the good water used in Recife is
+daily conveyed in water-canoes, which come under the dam called the
+Varadouro, and are filled from twenty-three pipes, led so as to fill the
+canoes at once, without farther trouble. We saw seven-and-twenty of
+these little boats laden, paddle down the creek with the tide towards
+the town. A single oar used rather as rudder than paddle guides the tank
+to the middle of the stream, where it floats to its destination.
+
+The sun was low, long before we reached even the first of the two
+castles on our way back to the fort. The dogs had already begun their
+work of abomination. I saw one drag the arm of a negro from beneath the
+few inches of sand, which his master had caused to be thrown over his
+remains. It is on this beach that the measure of the insults dealt to
+the poor negroes is filled. When the negro dies, his fellow-slaves lay
+him on a plank, carry him to the beach, where beneath high-water mark
+they hoe a little sand over him; but to the new negro even this mark of
+humanity is denied. He is tied to a pole, carried out in the evening and
+dropped upon the beach, where it is just possible the surf may bear him
+away. These things sent us home sad and spiritless, notwithstanding the
+agreeable scenes we had been riding among.
+
+_29th_. The feast of St. Michael's has drawn out the Portuguese
+gentlewomen, of whom we had not yet seen one walking in the streets. The
+favourite dress seems to be black, with white shoes and white or
+coloured ribbons and flowers in the hair, with a mantle of lace or
+gauze, either black or white. We have seen a few priests too for the
+first time. I think the edict desiring them to keep within their convent
+walls, is in consequence of their being among the fomentors of the
+spirit of independence. The appropriation of so much of the church
+revenue by the court of Lisbon is of course unpopular among the clergy
+of the country; and it is not difficult for them to represent, what
+indeed is truth, to the people, that the drawing of so much treasure
+from the country to support Lisbon, which can neither govern nor protect
+them now, is a rational ground of complaint. It is said, that the morals
+of the clergy here are most depraved. This is probably true. Men cut off
+by vows like those of the Roman clergy, from the active charities of
+social life, have only the resources of science and literature against
+their passions and vices. But here the very names of literature and
+science are almost unknown. The college and library of Olinda are in
+decay. There is not one bookseller in Pernambuco, and the population of
+its different parishes amounts to 70,000 souls! A tolerably well written
+newspaper, of which I have not been able to procure the first number,
+was set up in March, under the title of "Aurora Pernambucana," with the
+following motto from Camoens:
+
+    Depois da procellosa tempestade,
+    Nocturna sombra e sibilante vento,
+    Tras a manha serena e claridade,
+    Esperança de porto e salvamiente:
+
+alluding to the arrival of the news of the revolution in Portugal, on
+the 26th of that month, and the swearing of the governor, magistrates,
+&c. to adhere to the constitution as established by the Cortes. I am
+sorry to say that this only paper has been discontinued for the two last
+months, the editor having, as it seems, become a secretary of
+government, and having no longer time to superintend the press.[50]
+
+[Note 50: Not only has this paper been continued since, but others
+are now published in Recife.]
+
+_30th._--Last night the patriot troops attacked the line of defence at
+Olinda for four hours, but I do not believe there was any loss on either
+side. This morning a Portuguese frigate, the Don Pedro, with troops from
+Bahia, arrived. The reinforcement of 350 men, partly European, partly
+Bahian, has put the inhabitants, from the governor downwards, into the
+highest spirits; so that for once we see Pernambuco active, and
+cheerful, and alive. Men and women are out in their gayest habits, and
+the military are running and riding in all directions, not a little
+pleased to have some to relieve them in their constant watch and ward.
+
+Among other things which I learned by looking on, while the elders of
+families were engaged in the streets with the new-comers, was that the
+young Pernambucans are as dexterous in the use of signs as the Turkish
+lovers themselves, and that often a courtship is carried on in this way,
+and a marriage settled, without the parties having ever heard each
+other's voices. However, the general mode is for parents to settle their
+children's nuptials, without consulting any thing but pecuniary
+convenience.
+
+This day several of the officers and midshipmen of the Doris accompanied
+us to dine at the governor's, at half-past four o'clock. Our welcome
+was most cordial. His excellency took one end of the table, and an
+aide-de-camp the other: I was seated between M. and Madame do Rego. He
+seemed happy to talk of his old English friends of the Peninsula, with
+many of whom I am acquainted; and she had a thousand enquiries to make
+about England, whither she is very anxious to go. They apologised for
+having so little plate, but their handsome services were packed up in an
+English store-house, together with her excellency's jewels and other
+precious things. The cookery was a mixture of Portuguese and French.
+After the soup, a dish was handed round of boiled lean beef, slices of
+fat salt pork, and sausages, and with this dish, rice boiled with oil
+and sweet herbs. Roast beef was presented, in compliment to the English,
+very little roasted. Salads, and fish of various kinds, were dressed in
+a peculiar manner; poultry and other things in the French fashion.
+
+The dessert was served on another table. Besides our European dessert of
+fruit, cakes, and wine, all the puddings, pies, and tarts, formed part
+of it. It was decorated with flowers, and there was a profusion of
+sugar-plums of every kind. The company rose from the dining-table, and
+adjourned to the other, which Madame do Rego told me should have been
+spread in a separate apartment; but they have so recently taken
+possession of their house, that they have not one yet fitted up for the
+purpose. The governor and his guests proposed many toasts
+alternately--The King of England, the King of Portugal, the navy of
+England, the King of France[51], Luis do Rego, and the captaincy of
+Pernambuco, &c.--When we all rose at once from table; some of the
+company went on board ship, but most adjourned to the drawing-room, a
+comfortable apartment, furnished with blue satin damask, where we were
+joined by the French naval officers of His Most Christian Majesty's ship
+Sappho, and several ladies and gentlemen of the city. We had some
+excellent music. Madame do Rego has an admirable voice, and there were
+several good singers and players on the piano. It was a more pleasant,
+polished evening than I had expected to pass in Pernambuco, especially
+now in a state of siege.
+
+[Note 51: Mr. Lainé, the very pleasing and gentlemanlike French
+consul, was present.]
+
+_Wednesday, 3d October._--I went on board on Monday, and, provokingly
+enough, the patriots chose that very night to make an attack upon the
+out-post of the Affogadas, so I did not see the governor, at the head of
+his troops, march out to meet them; nor did I hear the national hymn
+sung by the regiments as they filed along on their return from a
+successful sally.[52] Yesterday, nothing occurred worth noting; we had
+the consul and British merchants on board to dinner, and the day passed
+as such days usually do.
+
+[Note 52: Since writing my Journal, I have seen the official account
+of this attack on the Villa of the Affagados. It was a well planned
+expedition; but the raw troops were easily driven out of the villa of
+which they had already possessed themselves, by throwing a bridge over a
+branch of the Capabaribe, by the veteran soldiers of Do Rego.
+
+The same morning, i.e. that of the 1st of October, the provisional junta
+of Pernambuco had addressed that of the patriots of Goyana, offering
+peace, saying, that as their avowed object was the dismissal of L. do
+Rego, he was ready to withdraw himself; that he had twice offered the
+council of Recife to do so, and had besides sent to the Cortes to beg
+they would appoint a successor, and allow him to retire; that his motive
+for this was the desire of peace, and of procuring the tranquillity of
+the province, so disturbed by these civil broils. They tell the patriots
+also, that the Don Pedro is arrived, and assure them that the troops
+brought by the frigate shall be employed only in the defence of Recife.
+They also intimate, that they are sure of assistance from the French and
+English frigates then there, such assistance having been offered, on the
+ground of the English and French property in the place. Now I know that
+no such assistance was offered by the English frigate. It was asked; but
+a strict neutrality had been enjoined by the government, all
+interference was refused, and no more was offered than _personal_
+protection to either English, French, or Portuguese; and of course
+protection for English property being the purpose for which the frigate
+was there, was understood by all parties.]
+
+Having learned that the patriots have refused to allow the linen
+belonging to the ship, which had been sent to the country to be washed,
+to return to the town, it was determined that we should send to their
+head-quarters, and remonstrate against this very inconvenient mode of
+annoying the port. I obtained leave to accompany the messengers, and
+accordingly we all went on shore immediately after breakfast. Our first
+business was to procure passports, and to learn the countersigns; after
+which Capt. Graham, with Col. Cottar, the governor's principal
+aide-de-camp, rode with us to the out-posts, where we left them, with an
+intention of returning to dine at Mr. Stewart's, to meet Luis do Rego's
+family. Our party consisted of M. Caumont, to act as interpreter, Mr.
+Dance, bearing the letter, my cousin Mr. Glennie as my cavalier, and
+myself. It was the first time we had had an opportunity of passing the
+lines, and we felt like school-boys who had stolen beyond bounds, and
+well we might; the scenery was fresh and lovely, and the day as fine as
+possible.
+
+Pernambuco is not a walled town, but broad rapid rivers and æstuaries
+surround it, and it is only approachable by the roads and causeways; the
+banks thrown up across these, for present defence, are such as might
+stop the Brazilian cavalry for a few minutes, or afford cover for
+musketry; but their best defence is the swamp at the mouth of the
+Capabaribe, which is flooded at high water, and which extends nearly to
+the Bibiribi. At the edge of the swamp there is a wooden palisade, where
+we left the last post of the royalists, and took leave of our friends,
+who had accompanied us so far. After riding across the marsh, which by
+the by is very fit for rice ground, and is surrounded by cocoa-nut and
+tamarind trees, we came to the main stream of the Capabaribe, a deep,
+broad, and very rapid river; its sides are steep, and the water
+beautifully clear[53]: its banks are studded with country-houses, and
+adorned with groves and gardens, for the present abandoned by their
+owners, who have taken refuge in Recife.
+
+[Note 53: The Capabaribe has a course of about fifty leagues, but is
+only navigable to about six miles from the sea, on account of rapids and
+falls in the upper part; it has two mouths, one at Recife, and the other
+at Os Affogados. Chor. Braz.]
+
+The hedges on each side of the road are woven of palm-leaves, and where
+not quite new, are covered with all splendid creeping plants; the common
+and winged passion-flower, white, blue, and yellow clematis, jasmine,
+china-rose, and many others, both gay and sweet. The ditches, too, were
+full of colour, but we rode too fast to stay to collect plants; and I
+could only promise myself, at some future time, to gather one that
+appeared like a bog bean, but its colour bright purple.
+
+About two miles from Do Rego's last out-post, we came to the first post
+of the patriots, at a country-house on a rising ground, where arms piled
+at the door, and a sort of ragged guard, consisting of a merry-looking
+negro with a fowling-piece, a Brazilian with a blunderbuss, and two or
+three of doubtful colour with sticks, swords pistols, &c., told us an
+officer was to be found. After a few minutes parley, we found he was not
+authorised to receive our letter, so we rode on under the direction of
+the old Brazilian with his blunderbuss, who, being on foot, threatened
+to shoot us if we attempted to ride faster than he walked. The slow pace
+at which we advanced gave us leisure to remark the beauties of a
+Brazilian spring. Gay plants, with birds still gayer hovering over them,
+sweet smelling flowers, and ripe oranges and citrons, formed a beautiful
+fore-ground to the very fine forest-trees that cover the plains, and
+clothe the sides of the low hills in the neighbourhood of Pernambuco.
+Here and there a little space is cleared for the growth of mandioc,
+which at this season is perfectly green: the wooden huts of the
+cultivators are generally on the road-side, and, for the most part, each
+has its little grove of mango and orange-trees. At one of these little
+homesteads, we found a pretty large guard-house, established where four
+roads meet, and there our foot guide left us, and a gentlemanlike young
+officer, of the Brazilian Caçadores, rode with us, and entertained us by
+calling Luis do Rego a tyrant, and attributing the siege of Pernambuco
+entirely to the governor's obstinacy, in not joining the people of the
+province in throwing off the dominion of his master. Round the
+guard-house a number of negro girls, with broad flat baskets on their
+heads, were selling fruit and cold water: they had decked their woolly
+hair, and the edges of their baskets, with garlands of the scarlet
+althaea; their light blue or white cloaks were thrown gracefully across
+their dusky shoulders, and white jackets, so that it was such a picture
+as the early Spaniards might have drawn of their Eldorado.
+
+After riding a few miles, we came suddenly to the foot of an abrupt
+hill, on whose sides there were scattered groups of the most magnificent
+trees I ever beheld. There we were met by a small military party, which,
+after a parley with our guide, rather ordered, than invited us to ride
+up. In a few seconds, we came to a steep yellow sandstone bank, shaded
+on one side by tall trees, and open on the other to a lake surrounded
+by woody hills, on the most distant of which, the white buildings of
+Olinda sparkled like snow. On the top of the bank, and in the act of
+descending, was a group of forty horsemen, one of the foremost of whom
+bore a white banner; several were dressed in splendid military habits,
+others in the plain costume of the landed proprietors. These were
+deputies from Paraiba on their way to propose terms to Luis do Rego;
+they had just left the head-quarters of the besieging army, where the
+provisional government of Goyana is stationed, and were accompanied by a
+guard of honour: after exchanging civilities, part of the guard turned
+back with us, and the deputies went on their way. Having reached the top
+of the hill, we found about a hundred men, tolerably well armed, but
+strangely dressed, awaiting us; and there we were detained till our
+guide rode forward to ask leave to bring us to head-quarters. I was
+sorry I had no means of sketching any part of the beautiful landscape,
+which, besides the striking features I have mentioned before, now
+displayed a broad river, over which there is a white stone bridge of
+several arches; at one end, a large house, more like a palace, with its
+arches and corridors, and the encampment of the army and the horse
+picquets, and, in short, a bustle and animation that seldom happen to
+adorn so fine a scene. Our guide soon returned with eighteen or twenty
+mounted soldiers, whose appearance was rather wild than military: the
+guard presented arms as we parted from them, and we soon cantered down
+the hill towards the main body of the troops. Not above two hundred had
+the arms or accoutrements of soldiers; but there were dresses and
+weapons of every kind, leather, cloth, and linen; short jackets and long
+Scotch plaids, and every tint of colour in their faces, from the sallow
+European to the ebony African. Military honours were paid us by these
+ragged regiments, and we were conducted to the palace square, where Mr.
+Dance and Mr. Caumont dismounted, and I determined to await the issue of
+their conference, with my cousin in the court.
+
+This, however, was not permitted. In a few minutes, a smart little man,
+speaking tolerable French, came and told me the _government_ desired my
+company. I suspected a mistake of the word government for governor, and
+endeavoured to decline the honour; but no denial could be taken, and the
+little man, who told me he was secretary to government, accordingly
+assisted me to dismount, and showed me the way to the palace. The hall
+was filled with men and horses, like a barrack stable, excepting a
+corner which served as an hospital for those wounded in the late
+skirmishes, the groans of the latter mingling uncouthly with the
+soldiers' cheerful noisy voices. The stairs were so crowded, that we got
+up with difficulty, and then I found that I was indeed to be confronted
+with the whole strength of the provisional government. At the end of a
+long dirty room, that had once been handsome, as the form of the windows
+and carving of the panels on which there were traces of colour and
+gilding, indicated, there was an old black hair sofa, on the centre of
+which I was placed, with Mr. Dance on one side, and Mr. Glennie on the
+other; by Mr. Dance sat the little secretary, and next to him our
+interpreter, in old-fashioned high-backed chairs; the rest of the
+furniture of the room consisted of nine seats of different sizes and
+forms, placed in a semicircle fronting the sofa, and on each of these
+sat one of the members of the junta of the provisional government, who
+act the part of senators or generals, as the occasion may require. To
+each of these I was introduced; the names of Albuquerque, Cavalcante,
+and Broderod, struck me, but I heard imperfectly, and forget most of
+them: some wore handsome military coats, others the humbler dress of
+farmers. They politely told me they would not read the letter while I
+was waiting below, but as soon as we were seated, the secretary read it
+aloud. Instead of taking any notice of its contents, the secretary began
+a long discourse, setting forth the injustice of the Portuguese governor
+and government towards Brazil in general, and the Pernambucans in
+particular; that in order to resist that injustice, they had formed the
+present respectable government, pointing to the junta, without intending
+the least detriment to the rights of the king. That surely they could
+not be called rebels, as they marched under the royal flag of Portugal;
+but Luis do Rego might be reasonably stigmatised as such, for he had
+fired on that banner. He then went off into a long harangue upon the
+general principles of government; but as I understood little of the
+language, much of it was lost upon me, as well as on my companions; but
+I have no doubt that it served to impress the respectable junta with a
+higher idea of their secretary's understanding and eloquence:
+altogether, the speech reminded me of some of the best written of the
+Carbonari addresses of Italy; and there was something in the air,
+manner, and scene, not unlike what one imagines of the Barraca meetings
+of those ill-guided, misused people.[54] We then talked a great deal in
+French to the secretary, who repeated every word to the respectable
+junta, and at length got him to attend to a proposal for releasing our
+linen, and another for supplying the ship with fresh provisions. We had
+been paying forty dollars per bullock in the town; they agreed that
+their price should not exceed ten, if we sent boats to the Rio Doce, or
+Paratije[55] for them. This is the mouth of a small stream on the
+northside of Olinda. And I must not omit to mention, that they offered
+to allow us to take off fresh provisions for our English or French
+friends in the town.
+
+[Note 54: I regret exceedingly that I was then so ignorant of the
+language. I have since learned that there were many causes of particular
+grievance in this province. I do not mean to speak disrespectfully of
+the popular meetings of Brazil; they had all in view the best objects,
+national independence and civil liberty under reformed laws. The first
+object has been secured to them by their constitutional emperor, the
+last is growing up under his government; time only can perfect it. Happy
+would it have been for Italy, if its popular meetings had possessed the
+mild character of those of Brazil, and still happier, had they found in
+their prince a defender and protector.]
+
+[Note 55: At Rio Doce, Brito Freire and Pedro Jaques landed to
+assist Vieyra in the recovery of Pernambuco. See p. 25. of the
+Introduction.]
+
+The junta was extremely anxious to learn if there was a probability of
+England's acknowledging the independence of Brazil, or if she took part
+at all in the struggle; and many were the questions, and very variously
+were they shaped, which the secretary addressed to us on that head. They
+are of course violent in their language concerning Luis do Rego, in
+proportion as he has done his military duty, in keeping them at bay
+with his handful of men: and like all oppositions they can afford to
+reason upon general principles, because they have not to feel the
+hindrances of action, and the jarring of private interests in the
+disposal and fulfilment of office.
+
+I was sitting opposite to one of the windows of the council-room, and
+had been remarking for some time, that the sun was getting very low,
+and, therefore, rose to go, having received a note from the secretary,
+ordering the officers at their advanced posts to offer no hindrance to
+the passing of any thing belonging to His British Majesty's frigate,
+Doris. But we were not suffered to depart without a hearty invitation to
+sup and spend the night: and a stirrup-cup (a huge glass) was brought,
+and a bottle of wine, with about half as much water, poured into it; it
+was then handed to me to begin, and all fourteen received it in turn. By
+this time the guard was drawn out, the band played the national hymn, to
+which we all listened bare-headed, and so we mounted among those
+wild-looking men, in that strange, yet lovely landscape, just as the
+evening mist began to veil the lower land, and the bright red evening
+sun to gild the topmost branches of the forest.
+
+Our journey home was much more rapid than our journey out. The evening
+was cool, and the horses eager to return; but we did not reach Mr. S.'s
+till two hours after sunset, when we found that, after the party had
+waited till six o'clock, Captain Graham had insisted on their dining.
+The governor was uneasy, and offered to send a party of Caçadores in
+search, as he kindly said, of me,--but this, of course, was refused; the
+captain assuring his excellency, that if the patriots detained his
+lieutenant, he would take him back with his own men, and that as to me,
+while I was with my two companions, he had not the least fear concerning
+me. We were accompanied by the same officer, who had been our companion
+on the latter part of the ride to head-quarters, back almost to the town
+lines; and when we told this to the governor, he was sorry we did not
+know his name, that in case he should ever have it in his power to show
+him kindness, he might do so. A pleasant chat on the adventures of our
+ride, a hearty supper, and a little concert closed the day, which, upon
+the whole, was to me a most agreeable one.
+
+_Thursday, 4th._--Received Madame do Rego, one of her daughters, Miss
+S., and several gentlemen, on board. Most of the party were sea-sick,
+from the rolling of the ship, caused by the heavy swell at the
+anchorage. They were, however, highly charmed with their visit,
+particularly with the fireworks with which we saluted the ladies, who
+had never been on board a British frigate before, on their departure.
+
+_Friday, 5th._--According to the agreement made with the patriot
+officers, on Wednesday, one launch and the second cutter went to Rio
+Doce to receive bullocks and other provisions. The officers and men were
+most kindly received, and returned with many presents of fresh stock and
+vegetables, which the patriots forced upon them. A military band
+attended them on landing, and conducted them to the place of meeting
+with the chiefs.
+
+Messrs. Biddle and Glennie, being on shore surveying, near Cabo de Sant
+Augustin[56], were detained as prisoners for a few hours, by a patriot
+detachment; but, as it appeared to be only for the purpose of obtaining
+money, and done by some subaltern, no notice was taken of it.
+
+[Note 56: The easternmost land of South America. It has two little
+harbours, for small vessels, each of which is defended by a small fort,
+and has a celebrated chapel to our Lady of Nazareth.]
+
+_Saturday, 6th._--The frigate got under weigh to take a cruize, and if
+possible find a quieter anchorage. Mr. Dance with a party went for more
+provisions, to Rio Doce. The surf at the landing place was so high, that
+they were obliged to get into canoes, and leave the boats grappled at
+some distance from the beach. A guard of honour and military band
+attended them, as on the former day, and they were, moreover, pressed to
+dine with the commander of the post, which they gladly did. The
+dining-room was a long hut, built of wood and plaited palm leaves. In
+the centre, was a long table spread with a clean and very handsome
+cloth. The few chairs the place afforded were appropriated to the
+strangers, and the rest of the company stood during the meal. To the
+strangers, also, were given the spoons and forks, but the want of them
+did not appear to incommode the Brazilians. To each person a small
+basin of good beef broth, _bien dorée_, was served, and for the rest
+every man put his hand in the dish. Two principal messes occupied the
+centre of the table, one, a platter, containing a quantity of mandioc
+flour, raw; and the other a pile of fish, dressed with oil, garlic, and
+pimento. Each person began by stirring a quantity of the flour into his
+broth, till it acquired the consistence of brose, and then helping
+himself to the fish, which was cut up in convenient pieces, dipped it
+into the brose, and eat it with his fingers. Around the two principal
+dishes, were others of a most savoury nature,--eels fried with sweet
+herbs, shellfish stewed with wine and pimento, and others of the same
+kind. Into these also each man put his hand indiscriminately, and
+dipping his morsel into his basin, set our officers the example of
+eating that substitute for wheaten bread, and of swallowing, without
+regard to neatness or order, all manner of messes, mixed together, and
+touched by all hands. After dinner, a slave handed round a silver basin,
+with water and towels, after which a number of toasts were given, and
+the entertainment concluded with vivas, when the guard and band attended
+the officers to the boats, where the bullocks were ready to embark, and
+slaves to carry the English through the surf to the canoes, which
+conveyed them to the boats. On their return, I saw for the first time,
+the pitanga, a berry of which an excellent preserve is made; it grows
+upon a beautiful shrub, scarcely to be distinguished, either in flower
+or leaf, from the broad-leaved myrtle; the berry is as large as a
+filbert, and divided and coloured like the large red love-apple. Mr.
+Dance brought me, also, a beautiful green paroquet, the tamest,
+loveliest thing, with his emerald coat, and sparkling eye, I ever
+saw.[57]
+
+[Note 57: All the parrot tribe in Brazil is beautiful: but neither
+parrots nor parroquets talk well. However, no slave ship comes from
+Africa without a grey parrot or two; so that in the towns they are
+almost as numerous as the native birds, and much more noisy, for they
+talk incessantly.]
+
+_Sunday, 7th._--We continued to cruize opposite to Olinda and Recife,
+and alarmed some of our friends on shore, by sailing round the English
+bank, a thing hitherto believed impossible, for so large a ship.
+
+_Monday, 8th._--We find to-day, on anchoring, that terms have been
+entered into with the patriots, by which their deputies are to be in the
+council, and take an equal share in the administration, and on the other
+hand, they are to withdraw the investing troops, and leave Luis do Rego
+at the head of the military department, until the arrival of the next
+despatches from Lisbon. These pacific measures were brought about by the
+Paraiban deputies whom we met on Wednesday.
+
+_Tuesday, 9th._--Mr. Dance, Mr. Glennie, and I, were deputed to take
+charge of a large party of midshipmen, who had not been able before to
+take a run on shore, to spend the day on Cocoa-nut Island, which lies a
+good way up the harbour, and within the reef of Pernambuco. As we sailed
+along the rock, we observed that it is covered with echini, polypii,
+barnacles, limpets, and crusted with white bivalves less than oysters or
+cockles, yet containing a fish not unlike the latter in appearance, and
+the former in flavour. We had not exactly calculated the effect of the
+tide so far up the harbour as Cocoa-nut Island, consequently we got
+aground in the outer channel, at a considerable distance from the shore.
+The sailors pushed me over one flat bank in the gig, and then carried me
+to the beach; the midshipmen waded, and the officers and boats with the
+crews, went in search of a deeper passage, where they might approach
+with our provisions. Meantime the boys and I had full leisure to examine
+the island. It is perfectly flat and covered with white sand; the shore
+scattered with fragments of shells and coral. As its name imports, it is
+one grove of cocoa-nut trees, excepting where the present occupant has
+cleared space for a market-garden and fishponds. These last are very
+extensive; and as they secure a supply of fish at times when the rough
+seas of the outer roads prevent the canoes from going out, they have
+answered extremely well to the speculator. The garden produces European
+as well as Brazilian vegetables, in great perfection: Fruit-trees also
+thrive very well.[58] In the cuts for the fishponds I observed below
+the sand, a rich black earth, full of decayed vegetables, which probably
+renders this apparently sandy land, so fertile. The ponds were half
+covered with the white water-lily, and some other aquatic plants of the
+country. The whole island abounds in gay shrubs and gaudy flowers[59],
+where the humming-bird, here called the _beja flor_ or kiss-flower, with
+his sapphire wings and ruby crest, hovers continually, and the painted
+butterflies vie with him and his flowers in tints and beauty. The very
+reptiles are beautiful here. The snake and the lizard are singularly so,
+at least in colour. We found a very large rough caterpillar, each hair
+or prickle of which is divided into five or six branches; the rings of
+its body are scarlet, yellow, and brown; and the country people believe
+that it hurts the udders of cows, and prevents their giving milk, if it
+does not actually suck them. They are therefore very unpopular here,
+because the whole island that is not garden-ground is pasture, and
+supplies a great deal of the milk for the market of Recife.
+
+[Note 58: All the orange and lemon tribe, papaws, cashew nuts,
+melons and gourds, pomegranates, guavas, &c.]
+
+[Note 59: The Madagascar perriwinkle is the most common, many
+parasitic plants, and almost all the papilionaceous and the bell-shaped
+creepers: the passion flowers also are common.]
+
+While we were endeavouring to forget our hunger by examining the island,
+and drinking cocoa-nut juice, and wondering at many an ordinary thing,
+though new to young untravelled eyes, and such were those of most of the
+party, our boats were taking a circuitous track, and at length at ten
+o'clock landed our provisions, when we made a hearty breakfast, sitting
+on a sail spread under the palm shade. The elder boys with their guns,
+then accompanied Mr. Dance and the captain of a merchant vessel, who
+volunteered to act as Cicerone, to shoot; and the younger ones staid
+with me to collect flowers, gather vegetables, and with the assistance
+of the boats' crews, to superintend the preparations for dinner. At four
+o'clock the sportsmen returned, bringing red-crested woodpeckers,
+finches of various hues, humming-birds, black and yellow pies, and
+others of gay plumage and delicate shape, quite new to us all. A merrier
+party certainly never met, but the best of the expedition was to come.
+The tide was now favourable; and we determined to do a spirited thing,
+and instead of going all the way down the harbour, which would have
+kept us out beyond the time allowed us, we ran through a passage in the
+reef called Mother Cary's passage, because few things but the birds
+think of swimming there. The merchant-boat went first, our gig next, and
+as I sat in the stern of the large boat that was to follow, it was
+beautiful, but something fearful, to see them dash through that boiling
+surf between the rocks and rise over the wave secure beyond it, nor was
+the sensation less mixed when we followed. There is at all times
+something triumphant in the sensation of sailing over the waters; but
+when they are roughened by storms, or rendered fearful by rocks or
+shoals, the triumph approaches to the sublime, and in it there is a
+secret dread, though not of ocean, and a raising of the soul to him who
+made the ocean, and gave man mind to master it. I am not ashamed to own,
+that as I looked round on my young charge, when Mr. Dance whispered "sit
+still and say nothing," and then stepping to the bow of the boat called
+aloud to the helmsman, "steady!" I had a moment, though but a moment, of
+exquisite anxiety. But we were through in an instant, and soon alongside
+of the frigate, where we were praised for doing what few had done
+before, and having shown the possibility of doing that safely, which at
+some future time it might be of importance to know could be done at all.
+
+_Wednesday, 10th._--We went on shore early for the first time since the
+armistice. The guns are removed from the streets and a few of the shops
+are re-opened; the negroes are no longer confined within doors, and the
+priests have reappeared; their broad hats and ample cloaks give them an
+importance among the crowd, which now is busy and active, and seemingly
+intent on redeeming the time lost to trade by the siege. I was struck by
+the great preponderance of the black population. By the last census, the
+population of Pernambuco, including Olinda was seventy thousand, of
+which not above one third are white: the rest are mulatto or negro. The
+mulattoes are, generally speaking, more active, more industrious, and
+more lively than either of the other classes. They have amassed great
+fortunes, in many instances, and are far from being backward in
+promoting the cause of independence in Brazil. Few even of the free
+negroes have become very rich. A free negro, when his shop or garden has
+repaid his care, by clothing him and his wife each in a handsome black
+dress, with necklace and armlets for the lady, and knee and shoe buckles
+of gold, to set off his own silk stockings, seldom toils much more, but
+is quite contented with daily food. Many, of all colours, when they can
+afford to purchase a negro, sit down exempt from further care. They make
+the negro work for them, or beg for them, and so as they may eat their
+bread in quiet, care little how it is obtained.
+
+The European Portuguese, are extremely anxious to avoid intermarriage
+with born Brazilians, and prefer giving their daughters and fortunes to
+the meanest clerk of European birth, rather than to the richest and most
+meritorious Brazilian. They have become aware of the prodigious
+inconvenience, if not evil, they have brought on themselves by the
+importation of Africans, and now no doubt, look forward with dread to
+the event of a revolution, which will free their slaves from their
+authority, and, by declaring them all men alike, will authorise them to
+resent the injuries they have so long and patiently borne.
+
+_Thursday, 11th._--As every thing seems quietly settled between the
+royalist and patriot chiefs, we are preparing to take leave of
+Pernambuco, and it is not without regret, for we have been kindly
+treated by the Portuguese, and hospitably received by our own
+countrymen. We went on shore to provide necessaries and comforts for our
+farther voyage. Among the latter I bought some excellent sweetmeats[60],
+which are made in the interior, and brought to market in neat little
+wooden kegs, each containing six or eight pounds. It is astonishing to
+see the weight brought from two and three hundred miles' distance, by
+the small and slight but very swift horses of the country. The baggage
+horses are not shod any more than those for riding: the latter are
+almost universally trained to a kind of running pace, easy in itself,
+but not very agreeable at first, to those accustomed to English horses.
+To-day I saw and tasted the jerked beef, _charqui_, of Spanish South
+America. It appears, when hanging in bales at the shop-doors, like
+bundles of thick ragged leather. It is prepared by cutting the flesh in
+wide strips, clean off the bones, slightly salting, pressing, and drying
+in the air. In this state it might well have served for saddle-cloths to
+the Buccaneers, as tradition says they dressed their meat under their
+saddles. However that may be, the beef is good. Here the common mode of
+using it is to cut it in small squares, and boil it in the mandioc
+pottage, which is the principal food of the poorer inhabitants and the
+slaves.
+
+[Note 60: The convents are, generally speaking, the places where the
+more delicate preserves are made. Those I bought were of Guava, cashew
+apple, citron, and lime. The cashew particularly good. They go by the
+general name of _Doce_.]
+
+After I had ended my marketing, I went to call on a Portuguese family,
+and as it was the first private Portuguese house I had been in, I was
+curious to notice the difference between it and the English houses here.
+The building and general disposition of the apartments are the same, and
+the drawing-room only differed in being better furnished, and with every
+article English, even to a handsome piano of Broadwood's; but the
+dining-room was completely foreign; the floor was covered with painted
+cloth, and the walls hung round with English prints and Chinese
+pictures, without distinction of subject or size. At one end of the room
+was a long table, covered with a glass case, enclosing a large piece of
+religious wax-work; the whole _præsepia_, ministering angels, three
+kings, and all, with moss, artificial flowers, shells and beads,
+smothered in gauze and tiffany, bespangled with gold and silver, San
+Antonio and St. Christopher being in attendance on the right and left;
+the rest of the furniture consisted of ordinary chairs and tables, and a
+kind of beaufet or sideboard: from the ceiling, nine bird-cages were
+hanging, each with its little inhabitant; canaries, grey finches with a
+note almost as fine, and the beautiful widow-bird, were the favourites.
+In larger cages in a passage room, there were more parrots and paroquets
+than I should have thought agreeable in one house; but they are
+well-bred birds, and seldom scream all together. We were no sooner
+seated in the dining-room, than biscuit, cake, wine, and liqueurs, were
+handed round, the latter in diminutive tumblers; a glass of water was
+then offered to each, and we were pressed to taste it, as being the very
+best in Recife; it proceeds from a spring in the garden of the convent
+of Jerusalem, two miles from town, and the only conduit from that spring
+leads to the garden of a sister convent here. From the lady, I learned,
+that the porous jars for cooling water, that we find here, are all made
+in the neighbourhood of Bahia, there being no manufactory here, except a
+few coarse cottons for clothing for the slaves. The air and manners of
+the family we visited, though neither English nor French, were perfectly
+well bred, and the dress pretty much that of civilised Europe, only that
+the men wore cotton jackets instead of cloth coats, and were without
+neck-cloths; when they go out of doors, however, they dress like
+Englishmen.
+
+Returning from our visit, we met a monk, carried out to be buried by
+several of his brethren, with candle, book, and bell, and all the
+solemnities which human feeling has invented to solace its own fears and
+griefs, under the pretence of honouring the dead, and to which the
+Romish church has in such cases as these, added all her pageantry. I
+could not help contrasting it with the burials on the beach of Olinda,
+and smiling at the vanities that attach themselves even to corruption.
+"But man, vain man, plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven, as
+make the angels weep."
+
+But our horses were awaiting us, and we left our indignation and our
+pity for the follies of some, and the miseries of others, to enjoy, for
+the first time since the posts were free, the country air. When we went
+to Bibiriba, soldiers stopped us to question at every turn; piles of
+arms, and horses ready accoutred at the door of every considerable
+residence, showed that military posts had taken place of the pleasures
+of the country-houses, and accounted for the solitariness of the roads.
+Now the scene is changed--the paths are crowded with negroes, young and
+old, in their picturesque, though gaudy dresses, with baskets of fruit,
+fish, and other provisions, on their heads; little carts, of which we
+had not before seen one, begin to appear, and the fine oxen which draw
+them form no bad contrast to the half-starved bullocks of the town.
+'Twas a cool evening, and the sun was just low enough to gild the edges
+of the palms and other tall trees, which shot up with their deep black
+shadows into the thin pure light, making an effect, that even Titian's
+landscape pencil has not reached. Our ride extended to Mr. S.'s
+country-house, which is, I believe, on the same plan with all the others
+hereabouts, and which I can only compare to an Oriental bungalow; one
+story very commodiously laid out, a veranda surrounding it, and standing
+in the midst of a little paddock, part of which is garden ground, and
+part pasture, generally hedged with limes and roses, and shaded with
+fruit trees, is the general description of the country sitios about
+Pernambuco; the difference arising from the taste of the inhabitant, or
+the situation of the ground, being allowed for. The low rent of these
+pleasant little gardens is surprising; but it arises in great measure
+from the indolence and consequent poverty of the holders of original
+grants of land here: as long as their negroes and estates maintained
+them, they paid no attention to the particular parts that, being near
+the town, might have been at all times productive. Now, that sugar and
+cotton are no longer in such demand, nearly half the fazendas or
+factories are ruined, and such is become the indolent temper of the
+people, that rather than seek to redeem their estates, they will take
+the smallest annuity for a portion.
+
+On our way to the sitio, we stopped at a kind of public-house or venta;
+it is like an English huckster's, and contains a little of every thing,
+cloth and candles, fruit and lard, wine and pimento, which are retailed
+at no very extravagant profit to the poor; the draught wine is really
+good, being port of excellent quality, without the quantity of brandy
+which the English market requires. By the time we repassed it on our way
+home, many a negro was spending his day's savings, and becoming as happy
+as wine could make him; and many a traveller was regaling himself with
+bread, garlic, and salt, and preparing to spread his mat, and lie down
+in the open air for the night. Night within the tropics is always a
+gayer and more peopled time than with us; the heat of the day detains
+many within doors all day, and evening and night become the favourite
+hours for walking. As we returned through Boa Vista we passed many
+groups enjoying like ourselves the pleasant air, and gazing idly on the
+reflections of the white houses and waving trees in the water; while the
+fire flies flitting from bush to bush, seemed like fragments of stars
+come down to adorn the moonlight.
+
+_Friday, 12th._--- The Prince Royal of Portugal's birth-day. There is a
+levee at the palace. The company bow first to the governor, then to the
+Prince's picture, which is placed in the middle of the audience-room, to
+receive its due honours; and then the _beja mano_, or kiss hands, takes
+place. The forts and ships saluted; we of course did the same; and the
+people all dressed and went to mass, as on a holiday. One thing
+contributed, however, in no small degree to the enjoyment of the day.
+The troops, which lately arrived from Bahia, re-embarked in order to
+return. Their whole behaviour had been disorderly, and their drunkenness
+and riot, during the ten days they were here, had quite disgusted the
+people; while the disposition they manifested to join the patriots, had
+rendered them but suspicious auxiliaries to the governor.
+
+_Saturday, 13th._--I took leave of my amiable friends at the palace.
+Madame do Rego gave me several specimens of amethyst, and the stone
+called minha nova (like aqua marine), and also a fine piece of gold ore
+of the province. She told me that Luiz do Rego had sent home many fine
+minerals from the captaincy, and also some fossils. She described some
+enormous bones, which may have belonged to the elephant or the mammoth,
+found at no great distance from Recife in digging a well, and, as far as
+I could understand, in such soil as I had observed lay under the sand in
+Cocoa-nut Island.[61]
+
+[Note 61: The Sugar-loaf Hill, in the ridge of Priaca, about eight
+leagues N.E. of the villa of Penedo, has a lake on its western
+declivity, where enormous bones have been found; and on the north side
+there is a fearful cavern.--_Chor. Brazil._]
+
+A great dinner was given to-day, by the merchants, to the captain and
+officers. The governor, and other persons of dignity in the town, met
+them; I am told it was a very handsome dinner, that there was plenty of
+every kind of wine, and that nothing could exceed the friendly
+politeness of the governor and his party. I had remained at Mr. S.'s,
+where most of the company visited me after tea; and then we took leave
+of Pernambuco, where we had received much kindness, and had at least the
+enjoyment of novelty. The scene at our embarking was very pretty. Our
+friends went with us to the jetty, and our boats lying in the clear
+moonshine beneath it, with sailors going up and down preparing for us,
+the harbour and the shipping doubled by the clear reflection in the
+still water, heightened and set off the sparkling of the breakers that
+dashed against the outer fort and light-house. Through these we soon
+made our way and reached the ship, where I have once more taken
+possession of my cabin, and put it in order for sea.
+
+We leave Pernambuco, with a firm persuasion that this part of Brazil at
+least will never again tamely submit to Portugal. Where the firmness and
+conduct of Do Rego have failed to hold the captaincy in obedience, it
+will be in vain for other governors to attempt it, particularly so long
+as the state of the mother country is such as that she can neither fight
+with nor for her colonies; and while she considers them only as taxable
+parts of her states, that are bound to support her in her weakness.[62]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 62: We left Pernambuco on the 14th Oct. 1821. Before Nov. 18th
+of the same year, the Cortes of Lisbon had recalled Luiz do Rego and all
+the European troops; had repented of that recal, and had countermanded
+it, and sent reinforcements. But by the time they arrived, the
+captain-general had embarked on board a French ship for Europe; and the
+junta, after provisioning the ships with the troops, forbid them to
+land, and sent them towards Rio Janeiro.]
+
+_Sunday, Oct. 14th._--We got under weigh after breakfast, and soon lost
+sight of Pernambuco. All Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, we coasted along
+within sight of the shores of Brazil. They are hilly and very woody, the
+green of the sloping banks being often interrupted by bright white
+patches, which seem to be of sand. In the evening of Tuesday the 16th,
+we anchored in the bay of All Saints, opposite to the town of St.
+Salvador, commonly called Bahia. It was quite dark before we got in, so
+that we lost the first entrance-view of that magnificent harbour; but
+the scattered lights show us the great extent and high situation of the
+town.
+
+_Wednesday, 17th._--This morning, at day-break, my eyes opened on one of
+the finest scenes they ever beheld. A city, magnificent in appearance
+from the sea, is placed along the ridge and on the declivity of a very
+high and steep hill: the richest vegetation breaks through the white
+houses at intervals, and beyond the city, reaches along to the outer
+point of land on which the picturesque church and convent of Sant
+Antonio da Barre is placed. Here and there the bright red soil shows
+itself in harmony with the tiling of the houses. The _tracery_ of forts,
+the bustle of shipping, hills melting in the distance, and the very form
+of the bay, with its promontories and islands, altogether finish this
+charming picture; then the fresh sea-breeze gives spirit to enjoy it,
+notwithstanding its tropical climate.
+
+Early in the day we moved our anchorage closer in-shore; and then, on
+the invitation of Mr. Pennell, the British consul, we went ashore to
+spend the day with him. We landed at the arsenal, or rather dock-yard,
+where there is nothing of the neatness observable in such establishments
+at home. The first object we saw, however, was a fine 58-gun frigate on
+the stocks, the model of which I hear connoisseurs praise as beautiful.
+There is nothing besides the new ship, and some handsome pieces of old
+brass cannon, worth looking at. Every thing is visibly either suspended
+or on the decline, and there will probably be no improvement, until the
+political state of Brazil is a little more settled. We find things here,
+though not quite so unquiet as at Pernambuco, yet tending the same way.
+
+The street into which we proceeded through the arsenal gate, forms, at
+this place, the breadth of the whole lower town of Bahia, and is,
+without any exception, the filthiest place I ever was in. It is
+extremely narrow, yet all the working artificers bring their benches,
+and tools into the street: in the interstices between them, along the
+walls, are fruit-sellers, venders of sausages, black-puddings, fried
+fish, oil and sugar cakes, negroes plaiting hats or mats, caderas, (a
+kind of sedan chair,) with their bearers, dogs, pigs, and poultry,
+without partition or distinction; and as the gutter runs in the middle
+of the street, every thing is thrown there from the different stalls, as
+well as from the windows; and there the animals live and feed! In this
+street are the warehouses and counting-houses of the merchants, both
+native and foreign. The buildings are high, but neither so handsome nor
+so airy as those of Pernambuco.
+
+It was raining when we landed; therefore, as the streets leading out of
+the filthy lower town do not admit of the use of wheeled carriages, on
+account of the steepness of the ascent, we hired caderas, and found
+them, if not comfortable, at least commodious. They consist of a cane
+arm-chair, with a foot-board and a canopy covered with leather;
+curtains, generally of moreen, with gilt bordering and lined with cotton
+or linen, are contrived to draw round, or open at pleasure; and the
+whole is slung by the top to a single pole, by which two negroes carry
+it at a quick pace upon their shoulders, changing occasionally from
+right to left.[63]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 63: When Frezier travelled, a cotton hammock with a canopy was
+used.]
+
+As we ascended from the street, every step brought us in sight of some
+beautiful scene, generally terminated by the bay and shipping. There is
+something in the landscape here peculiarly agreeable. The verdure, the
+wood, the steep banks, and gently sloping lawns, generally opening to
+the sea or the lake behind the town, have a freshness and amenity that I
+scarcely remember seeing before. We saw but little of the upper city,
+but that little was handsome, in our way to the consul's. His house,
+like those of all the British merchants, is a little way out of town,
+and is in the suburb Vittoria, which occupies the greater part of a long
+narrow ridge extending from the town towards Sant Antonio: between it
+and the town is Fort Pedro, built, I think, originally of mud, by the
+Dutch. It was faced with stone, on the recovery of Bahia from the Dutch,
+about the beginning of the last century. We found the Consul and his
+daughter ready to receive us at their very pleasant garden-house, which
+literally overhangs the bay,--flowers and fruits mingle their sweets
+even down to the water's edge,--while
+
+    "Seaborn gales their gelid wings expand,
+    To winnow fragrance round the smiling land."
+
+Eager to seize the opportunity of walking out after our voyage, we
+accepted Miss Pennell's kind offer, to show us some of the surrounding
+country before dinner, and accompanied her as far as the church
+dedicated to N.S. da Graça. It was the first offering of piety, I
+believe, to Christian worship by a native Brazilian.
+
+When the famous Caramuru was wrecked, together with the Donatory
+Coutinho, on Itaparica, Coutinho was put to death; but, Caramuru, being
+beloved by the natives, was spared, and he returned to his old
+settlement of Villa Velha. His wife, Catherine Paraguaza, who had
+accompanied him to France, saw an apparition in the camp of the Indians,
+and believing it to be a real European female, Caramuru followed in the
+direction his wife pointed out: he discovered, accordingly, in one of
+the huts, an image of N.S. da Graça; and according to the directions his
+wife had received from the vision, built and dedicated the church, and
+bestowed it, and a house by it, on the Benedictines. It was at first
+of mud, but soon after was built of stone.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Thursday, 18th._--We rode out before breakfast, through landscape so
+fine, that I wished for a poet or a painter at every step. Sometimes we
+went through thick wild wood into bushy hollows; then emerged on clear
+lawns, sprinkled with palm trees, through which country-houses, farms,
+and gardens were seen; and from every eminence, the bay, the sea, or the
+lake, formed part of the scene. Here and there the huge gamela tree[64]
+stands like a tower, adorned, besides its own leaves, with numberless
+parasite plants, from the stiff cactus, to the swinging air plant[65];
+and the frequent tower of church and monastery soften and improve the
+features of the country.
+
+[Note 64: The gamela, like the banyan, easily takes root in other
+trees, and its branches meet together in the same manner. It is the tree
+of which the canoes of Brazil are made, and serves besides for troughs
+of various kinds.]
+
+[Note 65: Air-plant or Tillandsia, of which there are several sorts.
+The Tillandsia Lingulata is the largest, and agrees with Jaquin's plate;
+the others are different from those described by him, and are much more
+beautiful.].
+
+Mr. Pennell has most kindly given our young men a general invitation to
+his house; and accordingly, to-day several of them dined with him, and
+we had a party in the evening, when some of the ladies played
+quadrilles, while others danced.
+
+_Friday, 19th._--I accompanied Miss Pennell in a tour of visits to her
+Portuguese friends. As it is not their custom to visit or be visited in
+the forenoon, it was hardly fair to take a stranger to see them.
+However, my curiosity, at least, was gratified. In the first place, the
+houses, for the most part, are disgustingly dirty: the lower story
+usually consists of cells for the slaves, stabling &c.; the staircases
+are narrow and dark; and, at more than one house, we waited in a passage
+while the servants ran to open the doors and windows of the
+sitting-rooms, and to call their mistresses, who were enjoying their
+undress in their own apartments. When they appeared, I could scarcely
+believe that one half were gentlewomen. As they wear neither stay nor
+bodice, the figure becomes almost indecently slovenly, after very early
+youth; and this is the more disgusting, as they are very thinly clad,
+wear no neck-handkerchiefs, and scarcely any sleeves. Then, in this hot
+climate, it is unpleasant to see dark cottons and stuffs, without any
+white linen, near the skin. Hair black, ill combed, and dishevelled, or
+knotted unbecomingly, or still worse, _en papillote_, and the whole
+person having an unwashed appearance. When at any of the houses the
+bustle of opening the cobwebbed windows, and assembling the family was
+over, in two or three instances, the servants had to remove dishes of
+sugar, mandioc, and other provisions, which had been left in the best
+rooms to dry. There is usually a sofa at each end of the room, and to
+the right and left a long file of chairs, which look as if they never
+could be moved out of their place. Between the two sets of seats is a
+space, which, I am told, is often used for dancing; and, in every house,
+I saw either a guitar or piano, and generally both. Prints and pictures,
+the latter the worst daubs I ever saw, decorate the walls pretty
+generally; and there are, besides, crucifixes and other things of the
+kind. Some houses, however, are more neatly arranged; one, I think
+belonging to a captain of the navy, was papered, the floors laid with
+mat, and the tables ornamented with pretty porcelain, Indian and French:
+the lady too was neatly dressed in a French wrapper. Another house
+belonging to one of the judges was also clean, and of a more stately
+appearance than the rest, though the inhabitant was neither richer nor
+of higher rank. Glass chandeliers were suspended from the roof; handsome
+mirrors were intermixed with the prints and pictures. A good deal of
+handsome china was displayed round the room; but the jars, as well as
+the chairs and tables, seemed to form an inseparable part of the walls.
+We were every where invited, after sitting a few moments on the sofa, to
+go to the balconies of the windows and enjoy the view and the breeze, or
+at least amuse ourselves with what was passing in the street. And yet
+they did not lack conversation: the principal topic, however, was praise
+of the beauty of Bahia; dress, children, and diseases, I think, made up
+the rest; and, to say the truth, their manner of talking on the latter
+subject is as disgusting as their dress, that is, in a morning: I am
+told they are different after dinner. They marry very early, and soon
+lose their bloom. I did not see one tolerably pretty woman to-day. But
+then who is there that can bear so total a disguise as filth and
+untidiness spread over a woman?
+
+_Saturday, 20th._--As the charts of this coast hitherto published are
+very incorrect, the captain asked permission from government to sound
+and survey the bay: it is refused on the ground of policy; as if it
+could be policy to keep hidden rocks and shoals, for one's own as well
+as other people's ships.
+
+I walked through the greater part of the town. The lower part extends
+much farther than I could see the day I landed; it contains a few
+churches, one of which, belonging to the monastery of _A concepçaô_, is
+very handsome, but the smell within is disgusting; the flooring is laid
+in squares with stone, and within each square there is a panelling of
+wood of about nine feet by six; under each panel is a vault, into which
+the dead are thrown naked, until they reach a certain number, when with
+a little quick-lime thrown in, the wood is fastened down, and then
+another square is opened, and so on in rotation. From that church,
+passing the arsenal gate, we went along the low street, and found it
+widen considerably at three quarters of a mile beyond: there are the
+markets, which seem to be admirably supplied, especially with fish.
+There also is the slave market, a sight I have not yet learned to see
+without shame and indignation[66]: beyond are a set of arcades, where
+goldsmiths, jewellers, and haberdashers display their small wares, and
+there are the best-looking shops; but there is a want of neatness, of
+that art of making things look well, that invites a buyer in England and
+France. One bookseller's shop, where books are extravagantly dear,
+exists in the low town, and one other in the ascent to the upper.
+
+[Note 66: Frezier says of Bahia, "Who would believe it? there are
+shops full of those poor wretches, who are exposed there stark naked and
+bought like cattle, over whom the buyers have the same power; so that
+upon slight disgust they may kill them, almost without fear of
+punishment, or at least treat them as cruelly as they please. I know not
+how such barbarity can be reconciled to the maxims of religion, which
+makes them members of the same body with the whites, when they have been
+baptized, and raises them to the dignity of the sons of God--_all sons
+of the Most High_.
+
+"I here make this comparison, because the Portuguese are Christians who
+make a great outward show of religion."--_Voyage to the South Sea_.]
+
+The upper town is most beautifully situated on the ridge between the sea
+and the fresh water lake, and from its height, and the great slope of
+most of the streets, it is incomparably cleaner than the port. The
+cathedral dedicated to St. Salvador is a handsome building, and stands
+on one side of a square, where the palace, prison, and other public
+buildings are placed. The finest of these, the Jesuits' college, the
+marble columns of which came from Europe ready cut, is now converted
+into a barrack. The most useful is the hospital of Nossa Senhora da
+Misericordia[67], founded by Juan de Matinhos, whose statue in white
+marble, with a wig like Sir Cloudesley Shovel's in Westminster Abbey,
+stands at the first landing-place, and is the ugliest piece of carving I
+ever saw.
+
+[Note 67: Part of the funds for supporting this and other hospitals
+is derived from lotteries. See advertisements in the different Bahia
+newspapers.]
+
+This hospital, besides its use as a refuge for the sick, of whom there
+are generally about 120, maintains 50 young girls of decent parentage,
+to whom a suitable education is given, and a dowry of 200 crowns
+bestowed on them when they marry.[68] The building of the Misericordia
+is a fair specimen of the style of the convents, public buildings, and
+more noble houses,--rather handsome than elegant. It surrounds a large
+area, subdivided into smaller courts; the staircase is of marble, inlaid
+with coloured stucco, and the sides are lined with tiles of porcelain,
+so as to form arabesques, often of very pretty design. This is both a
+cool and a cleanly lining to a wall, particularly for an hospital. The
+principal rooms are also decorated in the same manner; and many of the
+fronts and cupolas of the churches are covered with similar tiles, the
+effect of which is often exceedingly agreeable, when seen among the
+trees and plainer buildings of the city. The chapel belonging to the
+hospital is handsome, a little gaudy, however. The ceiling is
+respectably painted, and was probably the work of an amateur monk of
+the seventeenth century. The treatment of the sick is humane, and they
+are well provided with food and other necessaries; but the medical
+practice, though much improved of late years, is not the most
+enlightened.
+
+[Note 68: Joaõ de Matos Aguiar, commonly called Joaõ de Matinhos,
+from his diminutive size, was the founder of this Recolhimento. He
+bequeathed 800,000 crusadoes for the retired women, 400,000 for the
+patients, one to each on leaving the hospital, and 400,000, dowry to 38
+girls every year, at the period of the foundation, 1716.]
+
+There is a great deal of jealousy of foreigners in the present
+government, hence I was not able to enter many of the public buildings.
+The government treasury was one I was desirous to see, but there were
+objections. The treasury here was formerly considered as subordinate to
+that of Rio de Janeiro, and accordingly paid a portion of its receipts
+to bills drawn monthly by the treasurer in the capital, upon this, and
+those of the other provinces. But since the revolution of the 10th of
+February, the provisional government has taken upon itself to refuse
+payment, on the grounds that it is entirely independent of Rio, until
+the pleasure of the cortes at Lisbon shall be known. The revenue is
+derived from direct taxes on land and provisions, excise upon exports
+and imports, and harbour dues. Land is subject to a tax of one-tenth of
+the whole of its produce, and since the revolution, church lands are
+under the same law, and the clergy are paid by the government.
+
+The taxes on provisions are annually farmed out to the highest bidder:
+they are imposed on beef, fresh fish, farinha, and vegetables. Each
+parish has its separate farmer, who pays the amount of his contract into
+the treasury, and then makes the most he can of his dues.
+
+The import and export duties are paid at the custom-house, between which
+and the treasury a monthly settlement takes place.
+
+The port dues for foreign ships are 2000 reals per day, a trifle for the
+light house, and rather heavy charges for entering, clearing, &c.
+Portuguese and Brazilian ships pay no anchorage, but are subject to a
+tonnage.
+
+We ended our perambulation of the town, by going to the opera at night.
+The theatre[69] is placed on the highest part of the city, and the
+platform before it commands the finest view imaginable. It is a handsome
+building, and very commodious, both to spectators and actors. Within it
+is very large and well laid out, but dirty and in great want of fresh
+painting. The actors are very bad as such, and little better as singers;
+but the orchestra is very tolerable. The piece was a very ill-acted
+tragedy, founded on Voltaire's Mahomed. During the representation, the
+Portuguese ladies and gentlemen seemed determined to forget the stage
+altogether, and to laugh, eat sweetmeats, and drink coffee, as if at
+home. When the musicians, however, began to play the overture to the
+ballet, every eye and voice was directed to the stage, and a loud call
+for the national hymn followed, and not till it had been played again
+and again, was the ballet suffered to proceed. During the bustle
+occasioned by this, a captain in the army was arrested and hurried out
+of the pit; some say for picking pockets, others for using intemperate
+language on politics, when the national hymn was called for. Meantime
+one of the midshipmen of our party had his sword stolen, adroitly
+enough, from the corner of the box, yet we perceived nobody enter; so
+that we conclude a gentleman in regimentals in the next box thought it
+would suit him, and so buckled it on to go home with.
+
+[Note 69: It was begun by the Conde da Ponte, and finished by the
+Conde dos Arcos after the arrival of the king in Brazil. It was opened
+May 13th, 1812.]
+
+The police here is in a wretched state. The use of the dagger is so
+frequent, that the secret murders generally average two hundred yearly,
+between the upper and lower towns. To this evil the darkness and
+steepness of the streets mainly contribute, by furnishing almost a
+certainty of escape. The nominal _intendente da policia_ is also the
+supreme judge in criminal cases. No law, however, has as yet determined
+the limits or scope, either of his power, or that of the
+lieutenant-colonel of police, who calls upon a few soldiers from any of
+the garrisons whenever he has to act, and who appoints military patroles
+also from among the soldiers on duty. It often happens that persons
+accused before this formidable officer are seized and imprisoned for
+years, without ever being brought to a trial; a malicious information,
+whether true or false, subjects a man's private house to be broken open
+by the colonel and his gang; and if the master escapes imprisonment it
+is well, though the house scarcely ever escapes pillage. In cases of
+riot and quarrels in the street, the colonel generally orders the
+soldiers to fall on with canes, and beat people into their senses. Such
+being the state of the police, it is, perhaps, more wonderful that
+murders are so few, than that they are so many. Where there is little or
+no public justice, private revenge will take its place.
+
+_Sunday, 21st._--We went to the English chapel, and were well pleased
+with the decent manner in which the service was performed. The Rev.
+Robert Synge is chaplain, a man of cheerful convivial manners, yet
+exceedingly attentive both as chaplain, and as guardian of his poorer
+countrymen. The chapel and clergymen are supported by the contribution
+fund, as are also the hospital for English sailors and others, and its
+surgeon, Mr. Dundas: both the hospital and chapel are under the same
+roof. I was surprised, perhaps unreasonably, to hear Mr. Synge pray for
+"Don John of Portugal, Sovereign of these realms, by whose gracious
+permission we are enabled to meet and worship God according to our
+conscience," or words to that effect. We were not so polite in Rome, I
+remember, as to pray for His Holiness, though it would have been but
+reasonable.
+
+Returning from chapel, we saw great part of the troops drawn up in
+inspecting order, on the little green between _Buenos Ayres_ (the name
+of the hospital) and Fort Pedro. Every Portuguese is, it seems, by birth
+a soldier; and nothing exempts a man from military duty, but his holding
+a place under government. There are six corps of militia in the city of
+Bahia: 1st, one company of mounted gentlemen, forming the government
+guard of honour; 2d, one squadron of flying artillery; 3d and 4th, two
+regiments of whites, almost all tradespeople; 5th, one regiment of
+mulatoes; and 6th, one of free blacks, amounting altogether to 4000 men,
+well armed and equipped; but the black regiment is unquestionably the
+best trained, and most serviceable, as a light infantry corps. The
+regiments of country militia, as those of Cachoeira, Piraja, &c. are much
+stronger, and with those of the city, amount to about 15,000 men. The
+officers are chosen from among the most respectable families, and with
+the exception of the majors and adjutants, who are of the line, receive
+no pay.
+
+The troops of the capital are generally reviewed or inspected on
+Sundays, and sometimes the regular Portuguese are reviewed with them.
+There is always something gay and inspiriting in martial sounds and
+martial sights; and the fine weather, gay landscape, and above all, the
+idea that in a day or two, nay, this very night, these same soldiers
+might be called into action, did not render the scene less interesting.
+The native artillery have long garrisoned some of the forts. It appears
+that the royal troops of Portugal have claimed some superiority, and
+above all, have demanded their guns and ammunition; and so there is a
+dispute, in which the royalists and independents take part, and every
+day hostilities are expected; but both parties seem so willing to be
+peaceable, that I trust the matter will end without bloodshed.
+
+_Monday, 22d._--This evening there was a large party, both Portuguese
+and English, at the consul's. In the well-dressed women I saw to-night,
+I had great difficulty in recognising the slatterns of the other
+morning. The senhoras were all dressed after the French fashion: corset,
+fichu, garniture, all was proper, and even elegant, and there was a
+great display of jewels. Our English ladies, though quite of the second
+rate of even colonial gentility, however, bore away the prize of beauty
+and grace; for after all, the clothes, however elegant, that are not
+worn habitually, can only embarrass and cramp the native movements; and,
+as Mademoiselle Clairon remarks, "she who would _act_ a gentlewoman in
+public, must _be_ one in private life."
+
+The Portuguese men have all a mean look; none appear to have any
+education beyond counting-house forms, and their whole time is, I
+believe, spent between trade and gambling: in the latter, the ladies
+partake largely after they are married. Before that happy period, when
+there is no evening dance, they surround the card tables, and with eager
+eyes follow the game, and long for the time when they too may mingle in
+it. I scarcely wonder at this propensity. Without education, and
+consequently without the resources of mind, and in a climate where
+exercise out of doors is all but impossible, a stimulus must be had; and
+gambling, from the sage to the savage, has always been resorted to, to
+quicken the current of life. On the present occasion, we feared the
+young people would have been disappointed of their dance, because the
+fiddlers, after waiting some time, went away, as they alleged, because
+they had not their tea early enough; however, some of the ladies
+volunteered to play the piano, and the ball lasted till past midnight.
+
+_Tuesday, 23d._--I rode with Mr. Dance and Mr. Ricken along the banks of
+the lake, decidedly the most beautiful scenery in this beautiful
+country; and then through wild groves, where all the splendours of
+Brazilian animal and vegetable life were displayed. The gaudy plumage of
+the birds, the brilliant hues of the insects, the size, and shape, and
+colour, and fragrance, of the flowers and shrubs, seen mostly for the
+first time, enchanted us, and rendered our little journey to the great
+pepper gardens, whither we were going, delightful. Every hedge is at
+this season gay with coffee blossom, but it is too early in the year for
+the pepper or the cotton to be in beauty. It is not many years since
+Francisco da Cunha and Menezes sent the pepper plant from Goa for these
+gardens, which were afterwards enlarged by him, when he became governor
+of Bahia. Plants were sent from hence to Pernambuco, which have
+succeeded in the botanical garden.
+
+From the pepper gardens we rode on to a convent at the farther extremity
+of the town, and overlooking both the bays, above and below the
+peninsula of Bon fin, or N.S. da Monserrat. It is called the Soledad,
+and the nuns are famous for their delicate sweetmeats, and for the
+manufacture of artificial flowers, formed of the feathers of the
+many-coloured birds of their country. I admired the white water-lily
+most, though the pomegranate flower, the carnation, and the rose are
+imitated with the greatest exactness. The price of all these things is
+exorbitant; but the convents having lost much of their property since
+the revolution, the nuns are fain to make up by the produce of this
+petty industry, for the privations imposed on them by the reduction of
+their rents.
+
+_Wednesday, October 24th._--Mr. Pennell, his daughter, and a few other
+friends, joined us in an expedition to Itaparica[70], a large island
+that forms the western side of the Bay of All Saints. A shoal runs off
+from it a long way to sea, and there are reefs of coral rocks on
+different parts of its coast. The distance from the city to the nearest
+landing place on the island is five miles and a half, which our boats'
+crews rowed in less than two hours. We put in between two ledges of
+rock, to a little jetty, belonging to the fazenda or factory of Aseoli,
+or Filisberti, both of whom were partners in Jerome Buonaparte's
+commercial establishment here. There is no town on Itaparica; but there
+is a villa, or village, with a fort on the Punto de Itaparica, which
+commands the passage between it and the main land, and also the mouth of
+the river, on which stands Nazareth da Farinha, so called from the
+abundance of that article which it produces. There are also a great many
+fazendas, which, with their establishment of slaves and cattle, may be
+considered as so many hamlets. Each sugar farm, or ingenho, as the
+fazendas are oftener called here, has its little community of slaves
+around it; and in their huts something like the blessings of freedom are
+enjoyed, in the family ties and charities they are not forbidden to
+enjoy. I went into several of the huts, and found them cleaner and more
+comfortable than I expected; each contains four or five rooms, and each
+room appeared to hold a family. These out-of-door slaves, belonging to
+the great ingenhos, in general are better off than the slaves of masters
+whose condition is nearer to their own, because, "The more the master is
+removed from us, in place and rank, the greater the liberty we enjoy;
+the less our actions are inspected and controuled; and the fainter that
+cruel comparison becomes betwixt our own subjection, and the freedom, or
+even dominion of another." But, at best, the comforts of slaves must be
+precarious. Here it is not uncommon to give a slave his freedom, when he
+is too old or too infirm to work; that is, to turn him out of doors to
+beg or starve. A few days ago, as a party of gentlemen were returning
+from a _pic nic_, they found a poor negro woman lying in a dying state,
+by the side of the road. The English gentlemen applied to their
+Portuguese companions to speak to her, and comfort her, as thinking she
+would understand them better; but they said, "Oh, 'tis only a black: let
+us ride on," and so they did without further notice. The poor creature,
+who was a dismissed slave, was carried to the English hospital, where
+she died in two days. Her diseases were age and hunger.[71] The slaves I
+saw here working in the distillery, appear thin, and I should say
+over-worked; but, I am told, that it is only in the distilling months
+that they appear so, and that at other seasons they are as fat and
+cheerful as those in the city, which is saying a great deal. They have a
+little church and burying-ground here, and as they see their little lot
+the lot of all, are more contented than I thought a slave could be.
+
+[Note 70: _Itapa_ is the Indian name: the Portuguese termination,
+_Rica_, indicates the fertility of the island. On this island Francesco
+Pereira Coutinho, the first donatory, was killed by the savages. He had
+founded his city near the watering place called Villa Velha, by what is
+now the fort of Gamboa, and not far from the habitation of the
+adventurer Caramuru. The first Christian settlement formed here was in
+1561, when the Jesuits founded an Aldea, and collected and humanised
+some of the natives.]
+
+[Note 71: "The custom of exposing old, useless, or sick slaves, in
+an island of the Tyber, there to starve, seems to have been pretty
+common in Rome; and whoever recovered, after being so exposed, had his
+liberty given him, by an edict of the Emperor Claudius; where it was
+likewise forbid to _kill any slave, merely for old age or
+sickness_."--"We may imagine what others would practise, when it was the
+professed maxim of the elder Cato, to sell his superannuated slaves for
+any price, rather than maintain a useless burden."--_Discourses of the
+Populousness of Ancient Nations_.]
+
+Sugar is the principal product of Itaparica; but the greater part of the
+poultry, vegetables, and fruit, consumed in Bahia, are also from the
+island, and lime is made here in considerable quantities from the
+madrepores and corals found on the beach. This island used to furnish
+the neighbourhood with horses. When the English fleet and army stopped
+here, on the way to the Cape of Good Hope, the horses for the cavalry
+regiments were procured here. However, there is nothing remarkable in
+Itaparica but its fertility; the landscape is the same in character with
+that of Bahia, though in humbler style; but it is fresh and green, and
+pleasing. After dining in a palm-grove, and walking about till we were
+tired, we re-embarked to return; but the tide was unfavourable; we
+drifted among the rocks, where Coutinho, the first founder of the colony
+of Bahia, was wrecked and afterwards murdered by the natives, and we
+were in consequence four hours in returning home.
+
+26th, 27th, 28th, passed in pleasant enough intercourse with our
+countrymen, though neither of us were well enough to go much on shore,
+therefore our friends came to us. There are eighteen English mercantile
+houses established at Bahia, two French, and two German. The English
+trade is principally carried on with Liverpool, which supplies
+manufactured goods and salt, in exchange for sugars, rums, tobaccos,
+cottons, very little coffee, and molasses. Lately, sugars have been
+shipped, on English account, for Hamburgh to a great extent, and I
+believe part of the returns are in German or Prussian woollen-cloths.
+The province of Bahia, by its neglect of manufactures, is quite
+dependent on commerce. But the distance from the sea of the province of
+Minas Geraes, has induced the inhabitants to weave not only enough
+coarse cotton cloths for home consumption, but even to become an article
+of trade with the other captaincies.
+
+In the province of Esperitu Santo, cotton sail-cloth is made; but the
+chief trade of this place is _slaving_. This year no less than
+seventy-six slave-ships have sailed, without reckoning the smugglers in
+that line.
+
+_Sunday, 28th._--Mr. Pennell had kindly fixed to-day for giving us a
+party in the country, and accordingly some of our young people were to
+go and assist in putting up tents, &c.; but a miscalculation of tide and
+time, and a mistake as to the practicability of landing on part of the
+beach beyond the light-house, occasioned a variety of adventures and
+accidents, without which I have always heard no fête champêtre could be
+perfect. However that may be, our party was a pleasant one. Instead of
+the tents, we made use of a country-house called the Roça, where beauty
+of situation, and neatness in itself and garden, made up for whatever we
+might have thought romantic in the tents, had they been erected. It is
+the fashion to pave the courts of the country-houses here with dark
+pebbles, and to form in the pavement a sort of mosaic with milk-white
+shells. The gardens are laid out in alleys, something in the oriental
+taste. The millions of ants, which often in the course of a single night
+leave the best-clothed orange-tree bare both of leaves and flowers,
+render it necessary to surround each tree with a little stucco wall, or
+rather canal, in which there is water, till they are strong enough to
+recover if attacked by the ants. In the garden at Roça, every shrub of
+value, either for fruit or beauty, was so fenced, and there were seats,
+and water channels, and porcelain flower-pots, that made me almost think
+myself in the East. But there is a newness in every thing here, a want
+of interest on account of what has been, that is most sensibly felt. At
+most, we can only go back to the naked savage who devoured his prisoner,
+and adorned himself with bones and feathers here. In the East,
+imagination is at liberty to expatiate on past grandeur, wisdom, and
+politeness. Monuments of art and of science meet us at every step:
+_here_, every thing, nature herself, wears an air of newness, and the
+Europeans, so evidently foreign to the climate, and their African
+slaves, repugnant to every wholesome feeling, show too plainly that they
+are intruders, ever to be in harmony with the scene. However, Roça is
+beautiful, and all those grave thoughts did not prevent us from
+delighting in the fair prospect of
+
+    "Hill and valley, fountain and fresh shade;"
+
+nor enjoying the scent of oleander, jasmine, tuberose, and rose,
+although they are adopted, not native children of the soil.
+
+Of the Portuguese society here I know so very little, that it would be
+presumptuous to give an opinion of it. I have met with two or three
+well-informed men of the world, and some lively conversable women; but
+none of either sex that at all reminded me of the well-educated men and
+women of Europe. Here the state of general education is so low, that
+more than common talent and desire of knowledge is requisite to attain
+any; therefore the clever men are acute, and sometimes a little vain,
+feeling themselves so much above their fellow-citizens, and the portion
+of book-learning is small. Of those who read on political subjects, most
+are disciples of Voltaire, and they outgo his doctrines on politics, and
+equal his indecency as to religion; hence to sober people who have seen
+through the European revolutions, their discourses are sometimes
+disgusting. The Portuguese seldom dine with each other; when they do, it
+is on some great occasion, to justify a splendid feast: they meet every
+evening either at the play, or in private houses, and in the last case
+gamble very deeply. The English society is just such as one may expect.
+A few merchants, not of the first order, whose thoughts are engrossed by
+sugars and cottons, to the utter exclusion of all public; matters that
+do not bear directly on their private trade, and of all matters of
+general science or information. Not one knew the name of the plants
+around his own door; not one is acquainted with the country ten miles
+beyond St. Salvador's; not one could tell me even the situation of the
+fine red clay, of which the only manufacture, pottery, here is made: in
+short, I was completely out of patience with these incurious
+money-makers. I was perhaps unjust to my countrymen: I dare say there
+are many who _could_ have told me these things, but I am sure none _did_
+tell me, and equally sure that I asked information of all I met with.
+But a woman is not, I believe, considered as privileged to know any
+thing by these commercial personages. The English are, however,
+hospitable and sociable among each other. They often dine together: the
+ladies love music and dancing, and some of the men gamble as much as the
+Portuguese. Upon the whole, society is at a low, very low scale here
+among the English. Good eating and good drinking they contrive, to have,
+for the flesh, fish, and fowl are good; fruits and vegetables various
+and excellent, and bread of the finest. Their slaves, for the English
+are all served by slaves, indeed, eat a sort of porridge of mandioc meal
+with small squares of jerked beef stirred into it, or, as their greatest
+luxury, stewed caravansas; and this is likewise the principal food of
+the lower classes even of the free inhabitants. In the fruit season,
+pumpkins, jackfruit, cocoa-nut, and melons, nearly take place of the
+mandioc. The huts of the poor are formed of upright poles, with branches
+of trees wattled between, and covered and lined either with cocoa-leaf
+mats, or clay; the roofs are also thatched. The better houses are built
+either of a fine blue stone, quarried on the beach of Victoria, or of
+brick. They are all white-washed: where the floor is not laid with wood,
+a fine red brick, six to nine inches square, and three in thickness, is
+used, and they are roofed with round red tiles. The houses are generally
+of one story high, with a room or two above by way of a look-out house.
+Under the house is generally a sort of cellar, in which the slaves live;
+and really I have sometimes wondered that human beings could exist in
+such.
+
+_Friday, 2d November._--Several of our people having yielded to the
+temptations of some worthless persons in the town, who induce sailors to
+desert in order that they themselves may profit by the premium given for
+the discovery of deserters, and having consequently swam on shore, the
+frigate has been moved up the harbour as far as Bom Fim, and it is
+intended to take her up still higher. I am glad of the opportunity of
+seeing more of this beautiful bay, and shall endeavour to land on the
+Ilha do Medo, or the point of Itaparica, where the first adventurers
+from Europe underwent hardship that appear hardly credible in our modern
+days. We also wish to examine the harbour within the funil or passage
+between the two islands, and into which the river or creek of Nazareth,
+which supplies Bahia with great part of the mandioc flour consumed
+there, runs.
+
+_Saturday, 3d November._--Our plan of proceeding farther up the harbour
+is suspended for the present. The disputes between the European
+Portuguese and the Brazilians in the city, seem to be about to come to a
+crisis. Early this morning, we learned that troops were assembling from
+all quarters, and that therefore it was advisable, for the protection of
+the British property and the persons of the merchants, that the ship
+should return to her station opposite to the town. The first provisional
+junta has lost several of its members, two of them being gone as
+delegates to Lisbon, and others being absent on account of ill health or
+disgust. The party opposing this junta talk loudly of independence, and
+wish at least one-half of the members of the provisional government to
+be native Brazilians. They also complain bitterly, that instead of
+redressing the evils they before endured, the junta has increased them
+by several arbitrary acts; and assert that one of the members who has a
+great grazing estate, has procured a monopoly, by which no man can
+supply the market with beef without his permission, so that the city is
+ill supplied. Such a ground of complaint will always excite popular
+indignation, and it appears now to be at its height. There has already
+been some skirmishing, in which, however, I hear there have been only
+three men killed. The Brazilian artillery occupies Fort San Pedro; the
+governor, and the wreck of the junta, have the town and the palace. The
+governor, indeed, has arrested several, I think seventeen persons, in an
+arbitrary manner; among these, two of my acquaintance, Colonel
+Salvador[72] and Mr. Soares, and have put them, some on board the Don
+Pedro, some on board transports in the bay, for the purpose of
+transporting them to Lisbon. Some of these persons are not permitted to
+have any communication with their families; others, more favoured, are
+allowed to carry them with them. These are not the means to conciliate.
+We have sent on shore to offer shelter to the ladies, and Captain Graham
+has agreed upon certain signals with the consul, in case of increased
+danger to his family.
+
+[Note 72: Colonel Salvador, though born in Portugal, has all his
+property and connections in Brazil; he served with credit in the
+peninsula. Mr. Soares, a Brazilian, had been long in England.]
+
+_Sunday, November 4th._--On looking out at daylight this morning, we saw
+artillery planted, and troops drawn up on the platform opposite to the
+opera house. I went on shore to see if Miss Pennell, her sister, or any
+of our other friends would come on board; but they naturally prefer
+staying to the last with their fathers and husbands. Notwithstanding the
+warlike movements of these last two days, it appears most likely that
+the chiefs of the opposite parties will agree to await the decision of
+the cortes at Lisbon, with respect to their grievances, and at least a
+temporary peace will succeed to this little disturbance.
+
+It appears, however, next to impossible that things should remain as
+they are. The extreme inconvenience of having the supreme courts of
+justice so far distant as Lisbon must be more and more felt as the
+country increases in population and riches. The deputies to the cortes
+are too far removed from their constituents to be guided in their
+deliberations or votes by them; and the establishment of so many juntas
+of government, each only accountable to the cortes, must be a cause of
+internal disorder, if not of civil war, at no distant time.
+
+_Monday, 5th._--A day of heavy tropical rain, which has forced both
+parties on shore to house their guns, and to desist for the present from
+all farther hostility. The governor, however, continues his arbitrary
+arrestations. It is curious how ancient authority awes men; for surely
+it is the accustomed obedience to the name of the king, and the dread of
+the name of rebellion, that prevents the Brazilians, armed as they are,
+from resisting these things.
+
+_Tuesday, November 6th._--The Morgiana, Captain Finlaison, came in from
+Rio de Janeiro. She belongs to the African station, and came to Brazil
+about some prize business connected with the slave trade. Captain
+Finlaison tells me tales that make my blood run cold, of horrors
+committed in the French slave ships especially. Of young negresses,
+headed up in casks and thrown overboard, when the ships are chased. Of
+others, stowed in boxes when a ship was searched; with a bare chance of
+surviving their confinement. But where the trade is once admitted, no
+wonder the heart becomes callous to the individual sufferings of the
+slaves. The other day I took up some old Bahia newspapers, numbers of
+the Idade d'Ouro, and I find in the list of ships entered during three
+months of this year,
+
+                                                     Alive.    Dead.
+
+1 slave ship from Moyanbique, 25th March, with        313       180
+
+1 do.           6th March                             378        61
+
+1 do.          30th May                               293        10
+
+1 do.          29th June from Molendo,                357       102
+
+1 do.          26th June                              233        21
+                                                     ____       ___
+                                                     1574       374
+                                                     ____       ___
+
+So that of the cargoes of these five ships reckoned thus accidentally,
+more than one in five had died on the passage!
+
+It seems the English ships of war on the African coast are allowed to
+hire free blacks to make up their complements when deficient. There are
+several now onboard the Morgiana, two of whom are petty officers, and
+they are found most useful hands. They are paid and victualled like our
+own seamen.[73]
+
+[Note 73: The negroes of the _Cru_ nation come to Sierra Leone from
+a great distance, and hire themselves out for any kind of labour, for
+six, eight, or ten months, sometimes for a year or two. They have then
+earned enough to go home and live like idle gentlemen, for at least
+twice that time, and then return to work. When their engagements on
+board men of war are fulfilled, they receive regular discharges and
+certificates.]
+
+_Thursday, November 8._--We went on board Morgiana to call on Mrs.
+Macgregor, a lively intelligent Spaniard, who with her husband, Colonel
+Macgregor, is a passenger. She joined me in visits on shore, where the
+only news is, that the governor continues to arrest all persons
+suspected of favouring independence.
+
+_November 9._--The Brazilians who occupy the forts of San Pedro and
+Santa Maria, had threatened to fire on the Don Pedro, if she attempted
+to get under weigh with the state prisoners on board. Nevertheless
+during the night she bent her sails, and sailed early this morning,
+carrying, it is said, twenty-eight gentlemen, who have been taken up
+without any ostensible reason. They are understood to have spoken in
+favour of the independence of Brazil. Several of our officers went on
+shore to dine with the gentlemen of the English club, who meet once a
+month, to eat a very good dinner, and drink an immoderate quantity of
+wine for the honour of their country.
+
+_Tuesday, November 13._--We have had, for ten days past, some of the
+heaviest showers I remember to have seen, and in going to and from the
+ship, we have generally been wet through; nevertheless some of our
+friends ventured on board to-day to dine with us, among the rest Colonel
+and Mrs. Macgregor; they were a little late, owing to a skirmish between
+the Portuguese and Brazilians, that occurred close to their house, just
+as they were setting off. Apparently it had not been premeditated, for
+the parties were fighting with sticks and stones, as well as swords and
+fire-arms. The combatants would not allow any officer in Portuguese
+regimentals to pass, so that Colonel Macgregor was obliged to go back
+and change his dress before he could come. All this appears to proceed
+more from a want of police than any other cause.
+
+_16th_.--Several of our young people and I myself have begun to feel the
+bad effects of exposing ourselves too much to the sun and the rain.
+Yesterday I was so unwell as to put on a blister for cough and pain in
+my side, and several of the others have slight degrees of fever. But
+generally speaking, the ship's company has been remarkably healthy.
+
+_Friday, 16th_.--Captain Graham taken suddenly and alarmingly ill.
+Towards evening he became better, and was able to attend to a most
+painful business. Last night a man belonging to the Morgiana was killed,
+and the corporal of marines belonging to the ship severely wounded, on
+shore. It appears that neither of these men had so much as seen the
+murderer before. He had been drinking in the inner room of a venda with
+some sailors, and having quarrelled with one of them, he fancied the
+rest were going to seize him, when he drew his knife to intimidate them,
+and rushed furiously out of the room. The young man who was killed was
+standing at the outer door, waiting for one of his companions who was
+within, and the murderer seeing him there, imagined he also wished to
+stop him, and therefore stabbed him to the heart. Our corporal, who was
+passing by, saw the deed, and of course attempted to seize him, and in
+the attempt received a severe wound. It is said, I know not with what
+truth, that Captain Finlaison is so hated here, on account of his
+activity against the slave trade, that none of his people are safe, and
+the death of the unfortunate man is attributed to that cause; but it
+appears to have been the result of a drunken quarrel. The town, however,
+appears to be in a sad disorderly state: besides our two men, a
+Brazilian officer was dangerously wounded in the dark, and three
+Brazilian soldiers and their corporal were found murdered last night.
+Captain Graham had sent one of his officers to act for him on the
+occasion, and to apply through the British consul to the police
+magistrate, Francisco Jose Perreira, for redress.[74] He himself is
+sensibly worse since he exerted himself to attend to this painful
+business.
+
+[Note 74: Mr. Pennell accordingly wrote to Mr. Perreira, stating the
+circumstance and also that the prisoner was taken. The magistrate
+assured him that he had laid his communication before the provisional
+government, and that the punishment directed by law should be inflicted,
+and the greatest sorrow was expressed by the junta for the accident.
+Colonel Madera, commanding the active military police, also assured
+Mr.---- the lieutenant of the Doris, on his honour, that the assassin
+should be brought to trial. But it was not done while we remained in
+Brazil, and it is probable not at all. The political state of Bahia
+shortly afterwards would scarcely leave leisure for such a matter.]
+
+The disorders of this climate are sadly enfeebling; they attack both
+mind and body, producing a painful sensitiveness to the slightest
+incident.
+
+_November 18th._--Our invalids have been sadly disturbed by the rockets
+which have been fired, ever since sunrise, from the church of our Lady
+of Conception[75], whose feast is on the 8th of December. But the three
+Sundays previous to it the church and convent are adorned, sermons are
+preached, rockets are fired, contributions are made, and the shipping in
+the harbour fire salooes at sunrise, at noon, and at sunset. The annual
+expense of rockets, and other fireworks, is enormous. Those used in
+Brazil all come from the East Indies and China. Sometimes, when
+manufactured goods are unsaleable here, the merchant ships them on board
+a Portuguese East Indiaman, and gets in return fireworks, which never
+fail to pay well. I have seen a set of cut-glass sent to Calcutta for
+the purpose, or a girandole, too handsome for Brazilian purchasers.
+
+[Note 75: One of the two parishes of the lower town.]
+
+Yesterday the ship's pinnace, which had been absent five days with the
+master, my cousin Glennie, and young Grey, returned. They had gone to
+examine the river of Cachoeira, and came back highly delighted with
+their trip, though they had some very bad weather; however, with
+tarpaulines, cloaks, and a blanket or two, which I insisted on their
+taking, they managed so well as to have returned in good health.
+
+Cachoeira, about fifty miles from Bahia, is a good town, where there is
+one English merchant resident. It is populous[76] and busy; for it is
+the place where the produce, chiefly cotton and tobacco, of a very
+considerable district, is collected, in order to be shipped for Bahia.
+It is divided into two unequal parts, by the river Paraguazu. Its parish
+church is dedicated to our Lady of the Rosary. It has two convents, four
+chapels, an hospital, a fountain, and three stone bridges over the small
+rivers Pitanga and Caquende, on which there are very extensive
+sugar-works. There are wharfs on both sides of the river. The streets
+are well paved, and the houses built of stone, and tiled: the country is
+flat, but agreeable. The river is not navigable more than two miles
+above the town; it there narrows and becomes interrupted by rocks and
+rapids, and there is a wooden bridge across it. About five miles from
+Cachoeira, there is an insulated conical hill, called that of
+Conception, whence there often proceed noises like explosions. These
+noises are considered in this country as indicative of the existence of
+metals. Near this place a piece of native copper was found, weighing
+upwards of fifty-two arobas. It is now in the museum of Lisbon.
+
+[Note 76: In 1804 it contained 1088 hearths.]
+
+Our exploring party landed on several of the islands, on their way up
+the river, and were every where received with great hospitality, and
+delighted with the beauty and fertility of the country.
+
+_22d._--At length all the invalids, excepting myself, are better; but,
+with another blister on, I can do little but write, or look from the
+cabin windows; and when I do look, I am sure to see something
+disagreeable. This very moment, there is a slave ship discharging her
+cargo, and the slaves are singing as they go ashore. They have left the
+ship, and they see they will be on the dry land; and so, at the command
+of their keeper, they are singing one of their country songs, in a
+strange land. Poor wretches! could they foresee the slave-market, and
+the separations of friends and relations that will take place there, and
+the march up the country, and the labour of the mines, and the
+sugar-works, their singing would be a wailing cry. But that "blindness
+to the future kindly given," allows them a few hours of sad enjoyment.
+This is the principal slave port in Brazil; and the negroes appear to me
+to be of a finer, stronger race, than any I have ever seen. One of the
+provisional junta of government is the greatest slave merchant here.
+Yet, I am happy to say, the Bahia press has lately actually printed a
+pamphlet against the slave trade. Within the last year, seventy-six
+ships have sailed from this port for the coast of Africa; and it is well
+known that many of them will slave to the northward of the line, in
+spite of all treaties to the contrary: but the system of false papers is
+so cunningly and generally carried on, that detection is far from easy;
+and the difficulties that lie in the way of condemning any slave ship,
+render it a matter of hazard to detain them. An owner, however, is well
+satisfied, if one cargo in three arrives safe; and eight or nine
+successful voyages make a fortune. Many Brazilian Portuguese have no
+occupation whatever: they lay out a sum of money in slaves; which slaves
+are ordered out every day, and must bring in a certain sum each night;
+and these are the boatmen, chairmen, porters, and weavers of mats and
+hats that are to be hired in the streets and markets, and who thus
+support their masters.
+
+_24th._--Yesterday the Morgiana sailed for Pernambuco, whence she will
+return to the coast of Africa. To-day the Antigone French frigate,
+commanded by Captain Villeneuve, nephew to the admiral of that name who
+was at Trafalgar, came in. Whenever France and England are not at war,
+the French and English certainly seek each other, and like each other
+more than any other two nations: and yet they seem like two great heads
+of parties, and the other nations take the French and English sides, as
+if there were no cause of opposition but theirs. Others may account for
+the fact, I am satisfied that it is so; and that whenever we meet a
+Frenchman in time of peace, in a distant country, it is something akin
+to the pleasure of seeing a countryman; and it is particularly the case
+with French naval men. Frequent intercourse of any kind, even that of
+war, begets a similarity of habits, manners, and ideas; so I suppose we
+have grown alike by fighting, and are all the more likely to fight
+again.
+
+There is a report, but I believe not well founded, that placards are
+stuck up about the city threatening that all Europeans, especially
+Portuguese, who do not leave the place before the 24th of December,
+shall be massacred. I listen to these things, because reports, even when
+false, indicate something of the spirit of the times.
+
+_December 8th._--This place is now so quiet that the merchants feel
+quite safe, and therefore we are leaving Bahia. I have taken leave of
+many hospitable persons who have shown us much attention; but my health
+is so indifferent, that but for the sake of that civility which I felt
+due to them, I should not have gone ashore again: however, it is all
+done, and we are in the act of getting under weigh.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_9th._--As we sailed out of the bay, we amused ourselves with
+conjecturing the possible situation of Robinson Crusoe's plantation in
+the bay of All Saints. Those who had been at Cachoeira chose that it
+should be in that direction; while such as had been confined to the
+neighbourhood of the city pitched on different sitios, all or any of
+which might have answered the purpose. There is a charm in Defoe's works
+that one hardly finds, excepting in the Pilgrim's Progress. The language
+is so homely, that one is not aware of the poetical cast of the
+thoughts; and both together form such a reality, that the parable and
+the romance alike remain fixed on the mind like truth. And what is
+truth? Surely not the mere outward acts of vulgar life; but rather the
+moral and intellectual perceptions by which our judgment, and actions,
+and motives, are directed. Then, are the wanderings of Christiana and
+Mercy, and the sufferings of the shipwrecked mariner, true in the right
+sense of the word truth? True as the lofty creations of Milton, and the
+embodied visions of Michael Angelo; because they have their basis and
+their home in the heart, and soul, and understanding of man.
+
+But we are once more upon the ocean, and our young people are again
+observing the stars, and measuring the distances of the planets. I
+grieve that one of the most promising of them is now an inmate in my
+cabin, in a very delicate state of health.
+
+_12th._--Yesterday we found soundings, which indicated the neighbourhood
+of the Abrolhos, and lay-to all night, that we might ascertain the exact
+position of those dangerous shoals; which, at the distance of three
+leagues, bearing N. W. by W., appeared like one long ragged island to
+the westward, and two smaller very low to the east.
+
+The banks extend very far out to the eastward. There is a deep passage
+between them and the mainland. With a little attention, a most
+profitable fishery might be established here.
+
+_Rio de Janeiro, Saturday, December 15th, 1821_.--Nothing that I have
+ever seen is comparable in beauty to this bay. Naples, the Firth of
+Forth, Bombay harbour, and Trincomalee, each of which I thought perfect
+in their beauty, all must yield to this, which surpasses each in its
+different way. Lofty mountains, rocks of clustered columns, luxuriant
+wood, bright flowery islands, green banks, all mixed with white
+buildings; each little eminence crowned with its church or fort; ships
+at anchor or in motion; and innumerable boats flitting about in such a
+delicious climate,--combine to render Rio de Janeiro the most enchanting
+scene that imagination can conceive. We anchored first close to a small
+island, called Villegagnon, about two miles from the entrance of the
+harbour. That island, however small, was the site of the first colony
+founded by the Frenchman Villegagnon, under the patronage of Coligny,
+whom he betrayed. The admiral had intended it as a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots; but when Villegagnon had, by his means, formed the
+settlement, he began to persecute them also: the colony fell into decay,
+and became an easy conquest to Mem de Sa, the Portuguese captain-general
+of Brazil.[77]
+
+[Note 77: See Introduction, p. 15.]
+
+We moved from this station to one more commodious nearer the town, and
+higher up the harbour, towards the afternoon, which soon became so
+rainy, that I gave up all hopes of getting ashore. I was really
+disappointed to find that my excellent friend, the Hon. Capt. S. had
+left the station with his frigate before we arrived; I had, however, the
+pleasure of receiving a kind letter from him, and he had left me a copy
+of the great Spanish dictionary. Nobody that has always lived at home,
+can tell the value of a kindness like this in a foreign land.
+
+_Sunday, 16th_.--I had the pleasure of seeing on board Mr. W. May, who
+has long been a resident in Brazil, and with whom I had spent many happy
+hours in early life. The pleasure such meetings give is of the purest
+and wholesomest nature. It quiets the passions by its own tranquillity;
+and, in recalling all the innocent and amiable feelings of youth, makes
+us almost forget those harsher emotions which intercourse with the
+world, and the operation of interest, passion, or suffering have raised.
+
+_Monday, 17th_.--By the assistance of some friends ashore, we have
+procured a comfortable house in one of the suburbs of Rio, called the
+Catete, from the name of a little river which runs through it into the
+sea. To this house I have brought my poor suffering midshipman,
+Langford; and trust that free air, moderate exercise, and a milk diet,
+will restore him. We have been visited by several persons, who all
+appear hospitable and kind, particularly the acting consul-general, Col.
+Cunningham, and his lady.
+
+_December 18th_.--I have begun house-keeping on shore. We find
+vegetables and poultry very good, but not cheap; fruit is very good and
+cheap; butcher's meat cheap, but very bad: there is a monopolist
+butcher, and no person may even kill an animal for his own use without
+permission paid for from that person; consequently, as there is no
+competition, he supplies the market as he pleases.[78] The beef is so
+bad, that it can hardly be used even for soup meat, three days out of
+four; and that supplied to the ships is at least as bad: mutton is
+scarce and bad: pork very good and fine; it is fed principally on
+mandioc and maize, near the town; that from a distance has the advantage
+of sugar cane. Fish is not so plentiful as it ought to be, considering
+the abundance that there is on the whole coast, but it is extremely
+good; oysters, prawns, and crabs are as good as in any part of the
+world. The wheaten bread used in Rio is chiefly made of American flour,
+and is, generally speaking, exceedingly good. Neither the captaincy of
+Rio, nor those to the north, produce wheat; but in the high lands of St.
+Paul's, and the Minas Geraes, and in the southern provinces, a good deal
+is cultivated, and with great success. The great article of food here is
+the mandioc meal, or farinha; it is made into thin broad cakes as a
+delicacy, but the usual mode of eating it is dry: when at the tables of
+the rich, it is used with every dish of which they eat, as we take
+bread; with the poor, it has every form--porridge, brose, bread; and no
+meal is complete without it: next to mandioc, the feijoam or dry
+kidney-bean, dressed in every possible way, but most frequently stewed
+with a small bit of pork, garlic, salt, and pimento, is the favourite
+food; and for dainties, from the noble to the slave, sweetmeats of every
+description, from the most delicate preserves and candies to the
+coarsest preparations of treacle, are swallowed wholesale.
+
+[Note 78: This was no longer the case at my second visit to Rio, and
+every thing eatable was much improved.]
+
+We have hired a horse for our invalid, and I have borrowed one for
+myself. These animals are rather pretty at Rio, but far from strong;
+they are fed on maize and capim, or Guinea grass, which was introduced
+of late years into Brazil, and thrives prodigiously: it is cultivated by
+planting the joints; the stem and leaves are as large as those of
+barley; it grows sometimes to the height of six or seven feet, and the
+flower is a large loose pannicle. The quantity necessary for each horse
+per day costs about eightpence, and his maize as much more. The common
+horses here sell for from twenty to one hundred dollars; the fine Buenos
+Ayres horses fetch a much higher price. Mules are generally used for
+carriages, being much hardier, and more capable of bearing the summer
+heat.
+
+_December 19th_.--I walked by the side of Langford's horse up one of the
+little valleys at the foot of the Corcorado: it is called the
+Laranjeiros, from the numerous orange trees which grow on each side of
+the little stream that beautifies and fertilises it. Just at the
+entrance to that valley, a little green plain stretches itself on either
+hand, through which the rivulet runs over its stony bed, and affords a
+tempting spot to groups of washerwomen of all hues, though the greater
+number are black; and they add not a little to the picturesque effect of
+the scene: they generally wear a red or white handkerchief round the
+head; and a full-plaited mantle tied over one shoulder, and passed under
+the opposite arm, with a full petticoat, is a favourite dress. Some wrap
+a long cloth round them, like the Hindoos; and some wear an ugly
+European frock, with a most ungraceful sort of bib tied before them.
+Round the washerwoman's plain, hedges of acacia and mimosa fence the
+gardens of plantains, oranges, and other fruits which surround every
+villa; and beyond these, the coffee plantations extend far up the
+mountain, whose picturesque head closes the scene. The country-houses
+here are neither large nor magnificent; but they are decorated with
+verandas, and have often a handsome flight of steps up to the
+dwelling-house of the master, beneath which are either store-houses, or
+the habitations of the slaves: they have all a gateway, large and
+handsome, whatever the house may be; and that gateway generally leads to
+at least one walk where every kind of flower is cultivated. Brazil is
+particularly rich in splendid creeping flowers and shrubs; and these are
+mingled with the orange and lemon blossoms, and the jasmine and rose
+from the East, till the whole is one thicket of beauty and fragrance. I
+scarcely know whether my invalid or myself enjoyed the morning most. A
+few more such, and I should think all sickness must disappear.
+
+_December 20th._--Spent in paying and receiving visits in the
+neighbourhood. The houses are built a good deal like those of the south
+of Europe: there is generally a court, on one side of which is the
+dwelling-house, and the others are formed by the offices and garden.
+Sometimes the garden is immediately close to the house, and in the
+suburbs this is generally the case. In town, very few houses have the
+luxury of a garden at all. These gardens are rather like oriental
+flower-plots, but they assimilate well with the climate. The flowers of
+the parterres of Europe grow by the side of the gayer plants and shrubs
+of the country, shaded by the orange, banana, bread-fruit (now nearly
+naturalised here,) and the palms, between straight alleys of limes, over
+whose heads the African melia waves its lilac blossoms; and on the
+raised water channels, china vases are placed, filled with aloes and
+tuberoses, and here and there a statue intermixed. In these gardens
+there are occasionally fountains and seats under the trees, forming
+places of no undelightful rest in this hot climate.
+
+_Friday, December 21st._--Mr. Hayne, one of the commissioners of the
+slave trade commission, and his sister, having proposed a party to see
+the botanic gardens, we set off soon after daylight; and drove to
+their house on the bay of Boto Fogo, perhaps the most beautiful spot in
+the neighbourhood of Rio, rich as it is in natural beauty; and its
+beauty is increased by the numerous and pretty country-houses which now
+surround it. These have all grown up since the arrival of the court from
+Lisbon; before that time, this lovely spot was only inhabited by a few
+fishermen and gipsies, with, it might be, a villa or two on the sloping
+banks by the fruit gardens. Beyond the bay, we drove through a beautiful
+lane to the Lake of Rodrigo de Freitas: it is nearly circular, and about
+five miles in circumference; it is surrounded by mountains and forests,
+except where a short sandy bar affords an occasional outlet to the sea,
+when the lake rises so high as to threaten inconvenience to the
+surrounding plantations. It is impossible to conceive any thing richer
+than the vegetation down to the very water's edge around the lake.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+We were to breakfast at the gardens, but as the weather is now hot, we
+resolved first to walk round them. They are laid out in convenient
+squares, the alleys being planted on either side with a very
+quick-growing nut tree, brought from Bencoolen originally, now
+naturalised here. The nut is as good as the filbert, and larger than the
+walnut, and yields abundance of oil; the leaf is about the size, and not
+unlike the shape, of that of the sycamore. The timber also is useful.
+The quick growth of this tree is unexampled among timber trees, and its
+height and beauty distinguish it from all others. The hedges between the
+compartments are of a shrub which I should have taken for myrtle, but
+that the leaves though firm are not fragrant. This garden was destined
+by the King for the cultivation of the oriental spices and fruits, and
+above all, of the tea plant, which he obtained, together with several
+families accustomed to its culture, from China. Nothing can be more
+thriving than the whole of the plants. The cinnamon, camphor, nutmeg,
+and clove, grow as well as in their native soil. The bread-fruit
+produces its fruit in perfection, and such of the oriental fruits as
+have been brought here ripen as well as in India. I particularly
+remarked the jumbo malacca, from India, and the longona (_Euphoria
+Longona_), a dark kind of lechee from China. I was disappointed to find
+no collection of the indigenous plants. However, so much has been done
+as to give reasonable hopes of farther improvement, when the political
+state of the country shall be quiet enough to permit attention to these
+things.
+
+The stream that waters the garden flows through a lovely valley, where
+the royal powder-mills are situated; but being fearful of too much
+exertion for Langford we put off visiting them to another day, and
+returned to the garden gate to breakfast. His Majesty John VI. built a
+small house there, with three or four rooms, to accommodate the royal
+party, when they visited the gardens. Our breakfast was prepared in the
+veranda of that house, from whence we had a charming view of the lake,
+with the mountains and woods,--the ocean, with three little islands that
+lie off the lake; and in the fore-ground a small chapel[79] and village,
+at the extremity of a little smooth green plain.
+
+[Note 79: Dedicated to St. John Baptist. I am not sure whether this
+or N.S. da Cabeça is the mother church; the same clergyman officiates in
+both.]
+
+After waiting with our agreeable and well-informed friends till the
+sea-breeze set in, we returned part of the way along the lake, and then
+ascended to the parsonage of Nossa Senhora da Cabeça, where we were
+joined by several other persons who had come to dine there with us. The
+Padre Manoel Gomez received us very kindly, and our pic-nic was spread
+in the ample veranda of his parsonage. Behind the veranda three small
+rooms served for sleeping-room, kitchen, and pantry. Half a dozen small
+cottages in the field behind contain the healthy-looking negroes who are
+employed in his coffee-grounds, and a swarm of children of every shade,
+between black and white. On a little eminence in the midst of these
+stands the chapel of Our Lady, which is the parish church of a large
+district. It is exceedingly small; but serves as the place where the
+sacraments are administered, and the licences granted for marriages,
+burials, and christenings. The owners of estates have generally private
+chapels, where daily mass is performed for the benefit of their own
+people; so that the parish church is only applied to on the
+above-mentioned occasions. About a stone's throw behind the chapel, a
+clear rivulet runs rapidly down the mountain, leaping from rock to rock,
+in a thousand little cascades, and forming, here and there, delightful
+baths. Nor is it without its inhabitants, which increase the simple
+luxuries of the Padre's table. He tells me the crawfish in his stream
+are better than any in the neighbourhood; the water itself is pure,
+light, and delicate.
+
+At length all our friends had assembled, and we returned to the veranda
+to dine. To judge by the materials of the feast, so blended were the
+productions of every climate that we could scarcely have pronounced in
+what part of the world we were, had not the profusion of ananas and
+plantains, compared with the small quantity of apples and peaches,
+reminded us of it. As is usual on such occasions, the oldest inhabitants
+of Brazil praised most what came from afar; while _we_ all gave the
+preference to the productions of the country.
+
+I was soon drawn away from the table by the beauty of the prospect,
+which I endeavoured to sketch. The coffee plantations are the only
+cultivated grounds hereabouts; and they are so thickly set with orange
+trees, lemons, and other tall shrubs, that they form in appearance
+rather a variety in the woods, than that mixture of cultivated with wild
+ground, which might be looked for so near a large city, where we expect
+to see the labour of man encroaching in some degree on the wild beauties
+of nature. But here vegetation is so luxuriant, that even the pruned and
+grafted tree springs up like the native of the forest.
+
+As every body was determined to be pleased, we all felt sorry when it
+was time to separate; but Burns has made all the reflections one can
+make on breaking up a pleasant party--
+
+    "Pleasures are like poppies spread,--
+    You seize the flower, the bloom is shed;
+    Or like the snow-falls in the river,--
+    A moment white, then lost for ever;
+    Or like the rainbow's fleeting form,
+    Evanishing amid the storm;
+    Or like the borealis race,
+    That flit ere you can point their place.
+    No man can tether time or tide:
+    The hour approaches,--_we_ must ride."
+
+And so we did.--We walked down to the foot of the hill, and each took
+his or her several conveyance; Colonel and Mrs. Cunningham their
+comfortable English chariot, Mr. and Miss Hayne their pretty curricle,
+and I my Rio caleche or _sege_,--a commodious but ugly carriage, very
+heavy, but well enough adapted to the rough roads between the garden and
+the town. The gentlemen all rode, and most of us carried home something.
+Fruit and flowers attracted some; Langford got a number of diamond
+beetles, and a magnificent butterfly, and I a most inadequate sketch of
+the scene from the Padre's house.
+
+_December 27th._--Since the jaunt to the botanical gardens, some of our
+invalids have been gaining ground: others who were well have become
+invalids, and I have done nothing but ride about or talk with them, and
+look at the beautiful views of the neighbourhood, and get a little
+better acquainted with the inhabitants; of whom the most amusing, so far
+as I have yet seen, are certainly the negroes, who carry about the fruit
+and vegetables for sale. The midshipmen have made friends with some of
+them. One of them has become quite a friend in the house; and after he
+has sold his master's fruit, earns a small gratuity for himself, by his
+tales, his dances, and his songs. His tribe, it seems, was at war with a
+neighbouring king, and he went out to fight when quite a boy, was taken
+prisoner, and sold. This is probably the story of many: but our friend
+tells it with action and emphasis, and shows his wounds, and dances his
+war dance, and shouts his wild song, till the savage slave becomes
+almost a sublime object. I have been for an hour to-night at a very
+different scene, a ball given by Mr. B----, a respectable English
+merchant. The Portuguese and Brazilian ladies are decidedly superior in
+appearance to those of Bahia; they look of higher caste: perhaps the
+residence of the court for so many years has polished them. I cannot
+say the men partake of the advantage; but I cannot yet speak Portuguese
+well enough to dare to pronounce what either men or women really are. As
+to the English, what can I say? They are very like all one sees at home,
+in their rank of life; and the ladies, very good persons doubtless,
+would require Miss Austin's pen to make them interesting. However, as
+they appear to make no pretensions to any thing but what they are, to me
+they are good-humoured, hospitable, and therefore pleasing.
+
+_Monday, 31st Dec. 1822_.--I went to town for the first time; our road
+lay through the suburb of the Catete for about half a mile. Some
+handsome houses are situated on either hand, and the spaces between are
+filled with shops, and small houses inhabited by the families of the
+shopkeepers in town. We then came to the hill called the Gloria, from
+the name of the church dedicated to N.S. da Gloria, on the eminence
+immediately overlooking the sea. The hill is green, and wooded and
+studded with country-houses. It is nearly insulated; and the road passes
+between it and another still higher, just where a most copious stream
+issues from an aqueduct (built, I think, by the Conde de Lavradio), and
+brings health and refreshment to this part of the town from the
+neighbouring mountains. Farther on, after passing the beach of the
+Gloria, we turned to the left, and entered the new part of that town
+through the arches of the great aqueduct built in 1718 by the viceroy
+Albuquerque. This supplies four copious fountains. The largest is the
+Carioca[80], near the convent of Sant Antonio; it has twelve mouths, and
+is most picturesque in itself: it is constantly surrounded by slaves,
+with their water-barrels, and by animals drinking. Just beyond are
+troughs of granite, where a crowd of washerwomen are constantly
+employed; and over against these, benches are placed, on which there are
+constantly seated new negroes for sale. The fountain of the Marecas is
+opposite to the public gardens, and near the new barracks; and, besides
+the spouts for water for the inhabitants, there are two troughs always
+full for the animals. The third is a very handsome one, in the palace
+square; and the fourth, called the Mouro, I did not see. The aqueduct
+is of brick, and is supported on two ranges of arches across the valley
+between two of the five hills of the city. The public buildings at Rio
+have nothing very remarkable about them. Even the churches present no
+architectural beauty, and owe the good effect they have in the general
+view to their size and situation. There are seven parish churches, and
+numerous chapels dependent on each. The first and eldest parish is that
+of St. Sebastian; the church dedicated to whom is the royal chapel, the
+only one I saw to-day. It is handsome within, richly gilt, and the
+pictures on the ceiling are far from contemptible; but I cannot praise
+that of the altar-piece, where Our Lady is covering with her cloak the
+Queen Dona Maria, and all the royal family, on their arrival in Brazil.
+The choir is served in a manner that would not disgrace Italy. I
+attended at vespers, and have seldom been more gratified with the music
+of the evening service. This the chapel owes to the residence of the
+royal family, whose passion and talent for music are hereditary.
+Adjoining to this chapel is the church and convent of the Carmelites,
+which forms part of the palace; and within which is the royal library of
+70,000 volumes, where on all days, except holidays, the public are
+admitted to study from nine till one o'clock in the forenoon, and from
+four o'clock till sunset. This part of the palace occupies one side of a
+handsome square: the palace itself fills up another; a third has private
+houses, built uniformly with the palace, besides the fish-market; and
+the fourth is open to the sea. The water-edge is faced with a handsome
+granite pier and steps, the blocks of which are bolted with copper. In
+the centre of the pier there is a fountain, supplied from the aqueduct
+of Albuquerque; and altogether the appearance of the palace square is
+extremely handsome. We went thence into a street behind it, and saw the
+front of the senate-house, which is connected with the palace, and the
+cemetery of the Carmelite church, which is a prettier thing than
+church-yards usually are. In the centre of a small quadrangle there is a
+cross, and by it a young cypress tree: all around there are flowers, and
+sweet herbs, and porcelain vases, containing roses and aloes placed on
+little pedestals and on a broad low wall that surrounds the square. I
+looked at first in vain for graves; at length I observed on these low
+walls, and on the higher ones in the outer circle, indications of
+arches, each being numbered. These are the places for the dead, who are
+walled up there with quick-lime; and, at a certain period, the bones and
+ashes are removed to make room for others. At the time of removal, if
+the dead has a friend who wishes it, the remains are collected in urns
+or other receptacles, and placed in a building appropriated for them, or
+where the friend pleases; otherwise they go to the common receptacle,
+and perish totally by the addition of more quick-lime. This is, I doubt
+not, the wholesomest way of disposing of the dead; and, even to the
+sense, is better than the horrid burials at Bahia, where they must
+infect the air. But there seems to me so little feeling in thus getting
+rid at once of the remains of that which has once been dear to us, that
+I went away in disgust.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 80: The nickname of the inhabitants of Rio is Carioca, from
+this fountain.]
+
+The city of Rio is more like an European city than either Bahia or
+Pernambuco; the houses are three or four stories high, with projecting
+roofs, and tolerably handsome. The streets are narrow, few being wider
+than that of the Corso at Rome, to which one or two bear a resemblance
+in their general air, and especially on days of festivals, when the
+windows and balconies are decorated with crimson, yellow, or green
+damask hangings. There are two very handsome squares, besides that of
+the palace. One, formerly the Roça, is now that of the Constituçaõ, to
+which the theatre, some handsome barracks and fine houses, behind which
+the hills and mountains tower up on two sides, give a very noble
+appearance. The other, the Campo de Santa Anna, is exceedingly
+extensive[81], but unfinished. Two of the principal streets run across
+it, from the sea-side to the extremity of the new town, nearly a league,
+and new and wide streets are stretching out in every direction. But I
+was too tired with going about in the heat of the day to do more than
+take a cursory view of these things, and could not even persuade myself
+to look at the new fountain which is supplied by a new aqueduct.
+
+[Note 81: It is 1713 feet square.]
+
+There is in the city an air of bustle and activity quite agreeable to
+our European eyes; yet the Portuguese all take their siesta after
+dinner. The negroes, whether free blacks or slaves, look cheerful and
+happy at their labour. There is such a demand for them, that they find
+full employment, and of course good pay, and remind one here as little
+as possible of their sad condition, unless, indeed, one passes the
+street of the Vallongo; then the slave-trade comes in all its horrors
+before one's eyes. On either hand are magazines of new slaves, called
+here _peices_; and there the wretched creatures are subject to all the
+miseries of a new negro's life, scanty diet, brutal examination, and the
+lash.
+
+_Tuesday, January 1st, 1823_.--I went to pay a second visit to an
+illustrious exile, Count Hogendorp, one of the Emperor Napoleon's
+generals: my first had been accidental. One morning last week, riding
+with two of our young midshipmen, we came to a pleasant-looking cottage,
+high on the side of the Corcovado, and at the door we saw a very
+striking figure, to whom I instantly apologized for intruding on his
+grounds, saying that we were strangers, and had come there accidentally.
+He instantly, with a manner that showed him to be no common person,
+welcomed us; asked our names, and on being told them, said he had heard
+of us; and, but for his infirmities, would have called on us. He
+insisted on our dismounting, as a shower was coming on, and taking
+shelter with him. By this time I perceived it was Count Hogendorp, and
+asked him if I had guessed rightly. He answered, yes; and added a few
+words, signifying that his master's servants, even in exile, carried
+that with them which distinguished them from other men.
+
+The Count is the wreck of a once handsome man: he has not lost his
+martial air: he is tall, but not too thin; his grey eyes sparkle with
+intelligence, and his pure and forcible language is still conveyed in a
+clear well-toned voice, though a little the worse for age. He ushered us
+into a spacious veranda, where he passes most of the day, and which is
+furnished with sofas, chairs, and tables: he then ordered his servant to
+bring breakfast; we had coffee, milk, and fresh butter, all the produce
+of his own farm; and, as we sat, we saw the showers passing by and
+under us across the valley, which leads the eye to the bay below. The
+General entered frankly into conversation, and during breakfast, and
+while the shower lasted, spoke almost incessantly of his imperial
+master. Early in life the Count had entered the army, a soldier of
+fortune, under Frederick of Prussia. On his return to his native
+country, Holland, he was employed by the States, successively, as
+governor of the eastern part of Java, and as envoy to one of the German
+courts. During his residence in Java, he had visited many of the English
+settlements on the main land of India, and had learned English, which he
+spoke well.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+On the annexation of Holland to France, he entered the French service
+with the rank of full colonel. He was always a great favourite with
+Napoleon, to whom his honesty and disinterestedness in money matters
+seem to have been valuable, in proportion as these qualities were scarce
+among his followers. The Count's affection for him is excessive, I
+should have said unaccountable, had he not shown me a letter written to
+him by the emperor's own hand, on the death of his child, in which,
+besides much general kindness, there is even a touch of tenderness I had
+not looked for. During the disastrous expedition to Russia, Hogendorp
+was entrusted with the government of Poland, and kept his court at
+Wilna. His last public service was performed in the defence of Hamburgh,
+where he was lieutenant governor. He would fain have attended the
+emperor into exile; but that not being allowed, he came hither, where,
+with the greatest economy, and, I believe, some assistance from the
+prince, who has great respect for him, he lives chiefly on the produce
+of his little farm.
+
+Most of these particulars I learnt from himself, while resting and
+sheltered from the rain, which lasted nearly an hour. He then showed me
+his house, which is small indeed, consisting of only three rooms,
+besides the veranda; his study, where a few books, two or three casts
+from antique bas reliefs, and some maps and prints, indicate the
+retirement of a gentleman; his bedroom, the walls of which, with a
+capricious taste, are painted black, and on that sombre ground,
+skeletons of the natural size, in every attitude of glee, remind one of
+Holbein's Dance of Death; and a third room occupied by barrels of orange
+wine, and jars of liqueur made of the grumaxama, at least as agreeable
+as cherry brandy which it resembles, the produce of his farm; and the
+sale of which, together with his coffee, helps out his slender income.
+
+The General, as he loves to be called, led us round his garden, and
+displayed with even fondness, his fruits and his flowers, extolled the
+climate, and only blamed the people, for the neglect and want of
+industry, which wastes half the advantages God has given them. On
+returning to the house, he introduced to me his old Prussian servant,
+who has seen many a campaign with him, and his negroes, whom he freed on
+purchasing them: he has induced the woman to wear a nose jewel, after
+the fashion of Java, which he seems to remember with particular
+pleasure. I was sorry to leave the count, but was afraid some alarm
+might be felt at home concerning us, and therefore bade him adieu.
+
+This evening I paid him another visit, and found him resting after
+dinner in his veranda. We had a good deal of conversation concerning the
+state of this country, from which, with prudence, every thing good may
+be hoped; and then the Count told me he was engaged in writing his
+memoirs, of which he showed me a part, telling me he meant to publish
+them in England. I have no doubt they will be written with fidelity, and
+will furnish an interesting chapter in the history of Napoleon. I was
+sorry to see the old gentleman suffering a good deal; and his age and
+infirmities seem to threaten a speedy termination to his active
+life.[82]
+
+[Note 82: Count Hogendorp died while I was in Chile. Napoleon had
+left him by his will five thousand pounds sterling, but the old man did
+not live to know this proof of the recollection of his old master. As he
+approached his end, the Emperor Don Pedro sent to him such assistance,
+and paid him such attention as his state required or admitted of, and
+had given orders concerning his funeral; but it was found at his death
+that he was a protestant, and one of the protestant consuls therefore
+caused him to be properly interred in the English burial-ground. On
+undressing him after death, his body was found to be tattooed like those
+of the natives of the eastern islands. I never saw the count after the
+1st of January.]
+
+_January 8th, 1822._--The only variety in my quiet life since the first,
+was afforded by a large and pleasant party at Miss Hayne's. There I saw
+abundance of jewels on the heads and necks of the elderly Portuguese
+ladies, and a good deal of beauty, and some grace, among the younger
+ones, whom I begin to understand pretty well. We had some good music,
+and there was a great deal of dancing, and not a little card-playing.
+
+To-day we left the house on shore, and are again at home on board the
+Doris, with all our invalids much better. Having settled every body
+comfortably, I went ashore to the opera, as it is the benefit night of a
+favourite musician, Rosquellas, whose name is known on both sides of the
+Atlantic. The theatre is very handsome; in size and proportion, some of
+our officers think it as large as the Haymarket, but I differ from them.
+It was opened on the 12th of October, 1813, the Prince Don Pedro's
+birth-day. The boxes are commodious, and I hear, that the unseen part of
+the theatre is comfortable for the actors, dressers, &c.; but the
+machinery and decorations are deficient. The evening's amusements
+consisted of a very stupid Portuguese comedy, relieved between the acts
+by scenes from an opera of Rossini's by Rosquellas, after which, he
+wasted a great deal of fine playing on some very ugly music.
+
+_Wednesday, January 9th._--To-day is expected to be a day of much
+importance to the future fate of Brazil. But I must go back to the
+arrival of a message from the cortes at Lisbon, intimating to the Prince
+their pleasure, that he should forthwith repair to Europe, and begin his
+education, and proceed to travel incognito through Spain, France, and
+England. This message excited the most lively indignation not only in
+His Royal Highness, but in the Brazilians from one end of the kingdom to
+the other. The Prince is willing to obey the orders of his father and
+the cortes, at the same time he cannot but feel as a man the want of
+decency of the message, and being thus bid to go home; and especially
+forbidden to carry any guards with him, as it should seem, lest they
+might have contracted too much attachment for his person. The Brazilians
+regard this step as preliminary to removing from this country the courts
+of justice, which have for fourteen years been held here, and so
+removing causes to Lisbon, by which means, Brazil would be again reduced
+to the condition of a dependent colony instead of enjoying equal rights
+and privileges with the mother country, a degradation they are by no
+means inclined to submit to.
+
+The feelings of the people are sufficiently shown, in the address sent
+to the Prince, a few days ago, (24th of December,) from St. Paul's; as
+follows:--
+
+"SIR,
+
+"We had already written to Your Royal Highness, before we received the
+extraordinary gazette of the 11th instant, by the last courier: and we
+had hardly fixed our eyes on the first decree of the Cortes concerning
+the organization of the governments of the provinces of Brazil, when a
+noble indignation fired our hearts: because we saw impressed on it a
+system of anarchy and slavery. But the second, in conformity to which
+Your Royal Highness is to go back to Portugal, in order to travel
+_incognito_ only through Spain, France, and England, inspired us with
+horror.
+
+"They aim at no less than disuniting us, weakening us, and in short,
+leaving us like miserable orphans, tearing from the bosom of the great
+family of Brazil the only common father who remained to us, after they
+had deprived Brazil of the beneficent founder of the kingdom, Your Royal
+Highness's august sire. They deceive themselves; we trust in God, who is
+the avenger of injustice; He will give us courage, and wisdom.
+
+"If, by the 21st article of the basis of the constitution, which we
+approve and swear to because it is founded on universal and public
+right, the deputies of Portugal were bound to agree that the
+constitution made at Lisbon could then be obligatory on the Portuguese
+resident in that kingdom; and, that, as for those in the other three
+parts of the world, it should only be binding when their legitimate
+representatives should have declared such to be their will: How dare
+those deputies of Portugal, without waiting for those of Brazil,
+legislate concerning the most sacred interest of each province, and of
+the entire kingdom? How dare they split it into detached portions, each
+insulated, and without leaving a common centre of strength and union?
+How dare they rob Your Royal Highness of the lieutenancy, granted by
+Your Royal Highness's august father, the King? How dare they deprive
+Brazil of the privy council, the board of conscience, the court of
+exchequer, the board of commerce, the court of requests, and so many
+other recent establishments, which promised such future advantage? Where
+now shall the wretched people resort in behalf of their civil and
+judicial interests? Must they now again, after being for twelve years
+accustomed to judgment at hand, go and suffer, like petty colonists, the
+delays and chicanery of the tribunals of Lisbon, across two thousand
+leagues of ocean, where the sighs of the oppressed lose all life and all
+hope? Who would credit it, after so many bland, but deceitful
+expressions of reciprocal equality and future happiness!!!
+
+"In the session of the 6th of August last, the deputy of the Cortes,
+Pereira do Carmo, said, (and he spoke the truth,) that the constitution
+was the social compact, in which, were expressed and declared the
+conditions on which a nation might wish to constitute itself a body
+politic: and that the end of that constitution, is the general good of
+each individual, who is to enter into that social compact. How then
+dares a mere fraction of the great Portuguese nation, without waiting
+for the conclusion of this solemn national compact, attack the general
+good of the principal part of the same, and such is the vast and rich
+kingdom of Brazil; dividing it into miserable fragments, and, in a word,
+attempting to tear from its bosom the representative of the executive
+power, and to annihilate by a stroke of the pen, all the tribunals and
+establishments necessary to its existence and future prosperity? This
+unheard-of despotism, this horrible political perjury, was certainly not
+merited by the good and generous Brazil. But the enemies of order in the
+Cortes of Lisbon deceive themselves if they imagine that they can thus,
+by vain words and hollow professions, delude the good sense of the
+worthy Portuguese of both worlds.
+
+"Your Royal Highness will observe that, if the kingdom of Ireland,
+which makes part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, besides that it
+is infinitely small compared to the vast kingdom of Brazil, and is
+separated from England but by a narrow arm of the sea, which is passed
+in a few hours, yet possesses a governor-general or viceroy, who
+represents the executive power of the King of the United Kingdom, how
+can it enter the head of any one who is not either profoundly ignorant,
+or rashly inconsiderate, to pretend, that the vast kingdom of Brazil,
+should remain without a centre of activity, and without a representative
+of the executive power: and equally without a power to direct our
+troops, so as that they may operate with celerity and effect, to defend
+the state against any unforeseen attack of external enemies, or against
+internal disorders and factions, which might threaten public safety, or
+the reciprocal union of the provinces!
+
+"Yes, august Sir! It is impossible that the inhabitants of Brazil, who
+are honest, and who pride themselves on being men, particularly the
+Paulistas, should ever consent to such absurdity and such despotism.
+Yes, august Sir, Your Royal Highness must remain in Brazil, whatever may
+be the projects of the constituent Cortes, not only for the sake of our
+general good, but even for the sake of the future prosperity and
+independence of Portugal itself. If Your Royal Highness, which is not to
+be believed, were to obey the absurd and indecent decree of the 29th of
+September, besides losing, in the world, the dignity of a man and of a
+prince, by becoming the slave of a small number of factious men, you
+would also have to answer before heaven for the rivers of blood which
+would assuredly inundate Brazil on account of your absence: because its
+inhabitants, like raging tigers, would surely remember the supine sloth
+in which the ancient despotism kept them buried, and in which a new
+constitutional Machiavelism aims even now to retain them.
+
+"We therefore entreat Your Royal Highness with the greatest fervour,
+tenderness, and respect to delay your return to Europe, where they wish
+to make you travel as a pupil surrounded by, tutors and spies: We
+entreat you to confide boldly in the love and fidelity of your
+Brazilians, and especially of your Paulistas, who are all ready to shed
+the last drop of their blood, and to sacrifice their fortunes, rather
+than lose the adored Prince in whom they have placed their well-founded
+hopes of national happiness and honour. Let Your Royal Highness wait at
+least for the deputies named by this province, and for the magistracy of
+this capital, who will as soon as possible present to Your Highness our
+ardent desires and firm resolutions; and deign to receive them, and to
+listen to them, with the affection and attention, which your Paulistas
+deserve from you.
+
+"May God preserve Your Royal Highness's august person many years.
+
+  "From the Government House of St. Paul's, 24th Dec. 1821.
+
+    John Carlos Augusto de Oeyenhausen, President.
+    Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Sylva, V. President.
+    Martim Francisco de Andrada, Secretary.
+    Lazaro Jose Gonçalves, Secretary.
+    Miguel José de Oliveria Pinto, Secretary.
+    Manoel Rodrigues Jordaen.
+    Francisco Ignacio de Souza Guimaies.
+    Joao Ferreira de Oleveira Bueno.
+    Antonio Leite Pereira de Gama Lobo.
+    Daniel Pedro Muller.
+    Andre da Silva Gomes.
+    Francisco de Paulo e Oliveira.
+    Antonio Maria Quartini."[83]
+
+[Note 83: The Prince answered this on the 4th of January, by
+assuring the Paulistas that he had transmitted the letter to Lisbon, and
+that His Royal Highness hoped from the wisdom of the Cortes that they
+would take measures for the good and prosperity of Brazil.]
+
+This letter to the Prince expresses the sentiments of all the southern
+part of Brazil, and to a certain degree those of the northern
+captaincies also. The latter are certainly as averse as the former to
+the removal of the courts of justice to Lisbon, but they would prefer a
+more northern city for the capital; while here, there is a wish among a
+considerable number of persons to remove the capital to St. Paul's, on
+account of its safety, and its neighbourhood to the mines, where the
+greatest proportion of the riches, industry, and population of Brazil is
+situated. His Royal Highness has not yet expressed his determination.
+The officers of the Lisbon troops talk loudly of his being obliged to do
+his duty, and obey the mandate of the Cortes. The Brazilians are earnest
+in their hopes that he may stay, and there are even some that look
+forward to his declaring openly for the independence of this country.
+Whatever his resolution may be, it is feared that there will be much
+disturbance, if not a civil war. Our English merchants are calling
+meetings, I believe for the purpose of requesting this ship to remain,
+at least until one of equal force shall arrive, fearing that their
+persons and property will not be safe, and every body looks a little
+anxious.
+
+10_th._--Yesterday there was a meeting of the camara of Rio; and after a
+short consultation the members went in procession, accompanied by a
+great concourse of people, to the Prince, with a strong remonstrance
+against his leaving the country, and an earnest entreaty that he would
+remain among his faithful people. His Royal Highness received them
+graciously, and replied, that since it appeared to be the wish of all,
+and for the good of all, he would remain. This declaration was received
+with shouts of enthusiasm, which were answered by the discharge of
+artillery, and every mark of public rejoicing.
+
+The day as usual, on any occasion of public interest, was ended at the
+opera, but I unfortunately could not get ashore; however some of the
+officers went. The house was illuminated. The Prince and Princess
+appeared in full dress in the king's box, which is in the centre of the
+house. They were received with enthusiasm by the people, the national
+hymn was sung, and between the acts of the play the people called on
+several of their favourite orators to address the Prince and people, on
+the event of the day. This call was obeyed by several speakers, and some
+of their addresses were printed and handed about the theatre; the best,
+or at least the most applauded, was the following by Bernardo Carvalho.
+
+"It is now only necessary to exhort you to UNION and
+TRANQUILLITY!!![84] Expressions truly sublime, and which contain the
+whole philosophy of politics. Without UNION you cannot be strong,
+without strength you cannot command TRANQUILLITY. Portuguese! Citizens!
+You have a Prince who speaks to you with kindness of your own work; who
+invites you to rally with him round the constitution; who recommends to
+you that moral force which embraces justice and is identified with
+reason, and which can alone accomplish the great work we have begun.
+To-day you burst the bonds which threatened you with suffocation. To-day
+you assume the true attitude of free men. But yet all is not done.
+Intrigue and discord, muttering furies, perhaps even now meditate fresh
+plans, and still endeavour to sow division, and to overthrow the
+trophies you have just raised to glory and to national honour. The same
+enthusiasm, ill directed, might produce the greatest crimes. Fellow
+citizens! UNION and TRANQUILLITY. The giddiness of party is unworthy of
+free men. Fulfil your duties. Yield to the gentle exhortation of your
+august Prince;... but in return say to him 'Sire! ENERGY and VIGILANCE.
+Energy to promote good,--Vigilance to prevent evil. The whole world has
+now its eyes fixed on you. The steps you are about to take, may place
+you in the temple of memory, or confound you among the number of weak
+princes, unworthy of the distinctions which adorn them. Perhaps you may
+influence the destinies of the whole world. Perhaps even Europe,
+anxiously and on tip-toe, reposes her hope upon you! PRINCE! ENERGY and
+VIGILANCE. Glory is not incompatible with youth, and the hero of the
+26th February may become the hero of the 9th January. Unite yourself
+with a people which loves you, which offers you fortune, life,
+everything. Prince! how sweet is it to behold the cordial expansion of
+the feeling of free men! but how distressing to witness the withering in
+the bud of hopes so justly founded! Banish, Sire, for ever from Brazil,
+multiform flattery, hypocrisy of double face, discord with her viperous
+tongue. Listen to truth, submit to reason, attend to justice. Be your
+attributes frankness and loyalty. Let the constitution be the pole-star
+to direct you: without it there can be no happiness for you nor for us.
+Seek not to reign over slaves, who kiss the chains of ignominy. Rule
+over free hearts. So shall you be the image of the divinity among
+us;--so will you fulfil our hopes. ENERGY and VIGILANCE, and we will
+follow your precept, UNION and TRANQUILLITY.'"
+
+[Note 84: Referring to a speech of the Prince on determining to stay
+in Brazil.]
+
+A priest, one of the favourites of the people, was called on to speak
+repeatedly. The national hymn[85] was sung again and again, and the
+Prince and Princess, who were observed to be chiefly surrounded by
+Brazilian officers, were again loudly cheered. And everything in the
+city, which was brilliantly illuminated, went off in the utmost harmony.
+
+[Note 85: Composed by the Prince.]
+
+Nothing can be more beautiful of the kind than such an illumination seen
+from the ship. The numerous forts at the entrance to the harbour, on the
+islands, and in the town, have each their walls traced in light, so they
+are like fairy fire-castles; and the scattered lights of the city and
+villages, connect them by a hundred little brilliant chains.
+
+To-day our friends the merchants are under fresh alarm, and have made a
+formal request to the captain to stay. With that petty spirit which
+passes for _diplomatic_, the deputy-consul and merchants, instead of
+saying what they are afraid of, only say, "Sir, we are afraid,
+circumstances make us so, and we hope you will stay till," &c. &c.; as
+much as to say, "You are answerable for evil, if it happens," although
+they are too much afraid of committing themselves to say why. I do not
+trouble myself now about their official reports, which I perceive are
+large sheets of paper, and large seals, without one word that might not
+be published on every church wall, for their milk and water tenor, but
+which I consider as absurd and mischievous, because they tend to excite
+distrust and alarm where no danger is. The truth is now, that there
+might be some cause of fear, if they would openly express it. The
+language of the Portuguese officers is most violent. They talk of
+carrying the Prince by main force to Lisbon, and so making him obey the
+Cortes in spite of the Brazilians; and both parties are so violent, that
+they will probably fight. In that fight there will doubtless be danger
+to foreign property; but why not say so? why not say such is the case?
+However, the wisest of the sons of men in modern times[86], has long ago
+set in the second place those who could not afford to be open and candid
+in matters of business; so _I_ may leave them alone.
+
+[Note 86: Bacon, _Essay on Dissimulation and Simulation_.]
+
+11_th_.--I went ashore last night to the opera, as it was again a gala
+night, and hoped to have witnessed the reception of the Prince and
+Princess. The Viscondeça do Rio Seco kindly invited me to her box, which
+was close to theirs; but, after waiting some time, notice arrived that
+the Prince was so busy writing to Lisbon, that he could not come. The
+double guard was withdrawn, and the play went on. I had, however, the
+pleasure of seeing the theatre illuminated, of hearing their national
+hymn, and of seeing the ladies better dressed than I had yet had
+occasion to do.
+
+There is a great deal of uneasiness to-day. The Portuguese
+commander-in-chief of the troops, General Avilez, has demanded and
+received his discharge. It is said, perhaps untruly, that his
+remonstrance to the Prince against his remaining here has been
+ungentlemanlike and indecent. I hear the troops will not consent to his
+removal, and they are particularly incensed that the choice of a
+successor should fall on General Curado, a Brazilian, who, it is said,
+will be called from St. Paul's to succeed Avilez. He is a veteran, who
+has commanded with distinction in all the campaigns on the southern
+frontier, and his actions are better known among his countrymen than
+those distant battles in Europe, on which the Portuguese officers of
+every rank are apt to pride themselves here, however slight the share
+they had in them, to the annoyance of the Brazilians.
+
+_12th_.--Yesterday the military commission for the government of the
+army here was broke up, and Curada appointed commander-in-chief, and
+minister of war. The Portuguese General Avilez made his appearance at
+the barracks of the European soldiers to take leave of them; they were
+under arms to receive him, and vowed not to part with him, or to obey
+another commander, and were with difficulty reduced to such order as to
+promise tolerable tranquillity for the day at least. It is said, that
+as it had been understood that they had expressed some jealousy, because
+the guard of honour at the opera-house had been for the two last
+evenings composed of Brazilians, the Prince sent to the Portuguese
+barracks for the guard of last night, but that they refused to go;
+saying, that as His Royal Highness was so partial to the Brazilians, he
+had better continue to be guarded by them. I am not sure this is true,
+but from the circumstances of the day it is not improbable.
+
+The opera-house was again brilliantly lighted. The Prince and Princess
+were there, and had been received as well as on the ninth, when, at
+about eleven o'clock, the Prince was called out of his box, and informed
+that bodies of from twenty to thirty of the Portuguese soldiers were
+parading the streets, breaking windows and insulting passengers in their
+way from barrack to barrack, where everything wore the appearance of
+determined mutiny. At the same time, a report of these circumstances
+having reached the house, the spectators began to rise for the purpose
+of going home; when the Prince, having given such orders as were
+necessary, returned to the box, and going with the Princess, then near
+her confinement, to the front, he addressed the people, assured them
+that there was nothing serious, that he had already given orders to send
+the riotous soldiers, who had been quarrelling with the blacks, back to
+their barracks, and entreated them not to leave the theatre and increase
+the tumult, by their presence in the street, but remain till the end of
+the piece, as he meant to do, when he had no doubt all would be quiet.
+The coolness and presence of mind of the Prince, no doubt, preserved the
+city from much confusion and misery. By the time the opera was over the
+streets were sufficiently clear to permit every one to go home in
+safety.
+
+Meantime the Portuguese troops, to the number of seven hundred, had
+marched up to the Castle-hill, commanding the principal streets in the
+town, and had taken with them four pieces of artillery, and threatened
+to sack the town. The field-pieces belonging to the Brazilians, which
+had remained in the town after the 26th of February, had been sent to
+the usual station of the artillery, at the botanical gardens, no longer
+ago than last week, so they entertained no fear of artillery. But they
+were disappointed in their expectation of being joined by that part of
+the Portuguese force which was stationed at San Cristovaŏ. This amounted
+to about 500 men[87], who said the King had left them to attend on the
+person of the Prince, and they had nothing to do with anything else; a
+declaration that was looked on with suspicion by the Brazilians.
+
+[Note 87: I am not sure of the correctness of these numbers, but I
+believe I am nearly right.]
+
+While the Portuguese were taking up their new and threatening position,
+the Brazilians were not idle. Every horse and mule in the town was
+pressed, and expresses despatched to all the militia regiments, and
+other Brazilian troops, as well as to the head-quarters of the
+artillery. The Prince was most active; so that by four o'clock this
+morning (12th), he found himself at the head of a body of four thousand
+men, in the Campo de Santa Anna, not only ready, but eager for action;
+and though deficient in discipline, formidable from their numbers and
+determination.
+
+The Portuguese had by no means expected such promptness and decision;
+they had besides not taken provision to the hill, and they were
+convinced that it would be an easy matter to starve them, by means of
+the immense superiority of numbers in the Campo. They therefore prepared
+to obey an order which the Prince communicated to them early in the day,
+to remove from the city to Praya Grande, on the other side of the
+harbour, only conditioning to carry their arms with them. His Royal
+Highness wished to have put them instantly on board of transports, to be
+conveyed to Lisbon, but the port admiral reported that there was neither
+shipping nor provision ready for the purpose; and therefore they are to
+be quartered at Praya Grande, until such shall be provided.
+
+I went ashore with an officer as early as I could, chiefly for the
+purpose of seeing the troops in the Campo de Santa Anna. In consequence,
+however, of the press of horses and mules, it was sometime before I
+could get a chaise to convey me there, and it was much too hot to walk.
+At length, however, I procured one, and determined to call on the
+Viscondeça of Rio Seco in my way, to offer her refuge in the frigate. We
+found her in a Brazilian dishabille, and looking harassed and anxious.
+She had remained in the theatre as long as the Prince last night, and
+had then hurried home to provide for the safety of her family and her
+jewels: her family she had despatched to her estate in the country; for
+the jewels, she had them all packed in small parcels, intending to
+escape with them herself in disguise to us, in case of a serious attack
+on the city; and she had left a quantity of valuable plate exposed in
+different parts of the house to occupy the soldiers on their first
+entrance. Everything, however, looks better now; and we assured her we
+had seen the first part of one of the Lisbon regiments ready to embark
+as we landed. We promised her, that on her making a signal from her
+house, or sending a message, she should have protection. She appears
+very apprehensive of evil from the liberation of the prisoners by the
+Brazilians during the night, and says, that there are some fears that
+the Portuguese will seize the forts on the other side, and hold them
+till the arrival of the reinforcements daily expected from Lisbon. This
+would, indeed, be disastrous; but I believe the apprehension to be ill
+founded.
+
+Having comforted my good friend as well as I could, we went on to the
+Campo, and found the Brazilians housed for the most part in some
+unfinished buildings. The men, though slight, looked healthy, active,
+and full of spirit; their horses were the best I have seen in the
+country; and, it might be fancy, but they gave me the idea of men
+resolute in their purpose, and determined to guard their rights and
+their homes.
+
+The scene in the Campo presented all manner of varieties. Within the
+enclosure where the artillery was placed, all was gravity and
+business-like attention: the soldiers on the alert, and the officers in
+groups, canvassing the events of the preceding night, and the
+circumstances of the day; and here and there, both within and without
+the circle, an orator was stationed with his group of auditors around
+him, listening to his political discussions, or patriotic harangues. In
+the open part of the Campo were straggling soldiers, or whole companies,
+escaped from the heated crowd of the enclosure: horses, mules, and
+asses, many of all lying down from sheer fatigue. In all directions,
+negroes were coming, laden with capim or maize for the horses, or
+bearing on their heads cool drink and sweetmeats for the men. In one
+corner, a group of soldiers, exhausted with travel and watching, lay
+asleep; in another, a circle of black boys were gambling: in short, all
+ways of beguiling the time while waiting for a great event might be
+seen; from those who silently and patiently expected the hour, in solemn
+dread of what the event might be, to those who, merely longing for
+action, filled up the interval with what might make it pass most
+lightly. I was well pleased with the view I had of the people in the
+Campo, and still better as the day wore away, for I staid sometime, to
+feel assured that all was to pass without bloodshed, beyond the two or
+three persons killed accidentally during the night.
+
+On our return to the ship, we were stopped for some time in the palace
+square, by a great concourse of people assembled to witness the entrance
+of the first Brazilian guard into the palace, while the last Portuguese
+guard marched out, amid the loud huzzas of the people; and on reaching
+the stairs, where we were to embark, we found the last of one regiment,
+and the first of another, about to sail for the Praya Grande, so that
+the city may sleep in security to-night.
+
+The inhabitants generally, but especially the foreign merchants, are
+well pleased to see the Lisbon troops dismissed; for they have long been
+most tyrannically brutal to strangers, to negroes, and not unfrequently
+to Brazilians; and, for many weeks past, their arrogance has been
+disgusting to both prince and people.[88]
+
+[Note 88: The heavy step of the Portuguese infantry has earned for
+them the nickname of _Pedechumbo_, or leaden foot; now applied to all
+partisans of Portugal.]
+
+The appearance of the city is melancholy enough: the shops are shut up,
+guards are parading the streets, and every body looks anxious. The
+shopkeepers are all employed as militia: they are walking about with
+bands and belts of raw hides over their ordinary clothes, but their
+arms and ammunition were all in good order, and excepting these and the
+English, I saw nobody at all out of doors.
+
+_13th_.--Every thing seems quiet to-day. From the ship we see the rest
+of the troops going over to the Praya Grande. Yet there is necessarily a
+great deal of anxiety among all classes of persons. Some persons have
+sent some of their valuables on board the frigate, for safety; and a
+message, I do not know on what authority, arrived to know if the Prince
+and Princess, and family, could be received and protected on board.--The
+answer, of course, is, that though the ship must observe the strictest
+neutrality between the parties, yet that we are ready at once to receive
+and protect the Princess and children, and also, whenever he has reason
+to apprehend personal danger, the Prince himself. My cabin is therefore
+ready. I hope they will not be forced to come afloat. The more they can
+trust to the Brazilians the better for them, and for the cause of that
+independence which is now so inevitable, that the only question is
+whether it shall be obtained with or without bloodshed.
+
+We have determined to have a ball on board, the day after to-morrow,
+that the people may get acquainted with us,--and then if any thing
+occurs to render it advisable to take refuge with us, they will know who
+they are to come amongst.
+
+_14th_.--The shops are open, and business going on as usual to-day. The
+Prince is granting discharges to both officers and men of the Portuguese
+regiments, who wish to remain in Brazil instead of returning to Europe.
+This is stigmatised by the Portuguese as _licensing desertion_, from the
+army of the King and Cortes; whatever they may call it, I am convinced
+that the measure tends to the present tranquillity of the capital. The
+Princess and children are gone to Santa Cruz, a country estate, formerly
+belonging to the Jesuits, now to the crown, fourteen leagues on the road
+towards St. Paul's.[89]
+
+[Note 89: This journey was very disastrous, as it caused the death
+of the infant Prince.]
+
+_15th_.--Our ball went off very well: we had more foreigners than
+English; and as there was excellent music from the opera-orchestra, and
+a great deal of dancing, the young people enjoyed it much. I should have
+done so also, but that Captain Graham was suffering with the gout so
+severely, that I could have wished to put off the dance. I had
+commissioned the Viscondeça do Rio Seco and some other ladies to bring
+their Portuguese friends, which they did, and we had a number of pretty
+and agreeable women, and several gentlemanlike men, in addition to our
+English friends.
+
+A dance on ship-board is always agreeable and picturesque: there is
+something in the very contrast afforded by the furniture of the deck of
+a ship of war to the company and occupation of a ball that is striking.
+
+    "The little warlike world within,
+    The well-reeved guns and netted canopy,"
+
+all dressed with evergreens and flowers, waving over the heads of gay
+girls and their smiling partners, furnish forth combinations in which
+poetry and romance delight, and which one must be stoical indeed to
+contemplate without emotion. I never loved dancing myself, perhaps
+because I never excelled in it; but yet, a ball-room is to me a
+delightful place. There are happy faces, and hearts not the less happy
+for the little anxious palpitations that arise now and then, and
+curiosity, and hope, and all the amiable feelings of youth and nature;
+and if among it a little elderly gaiety mingles, and excites a smile, I,
+for my part, rather reverence the youth of heart which lives through the
+cares and vexations of this life, and can mingle in, without disturbing,
+the hilarity of youth.
+
+_17th_.--Nothing remarkable yesterday or to-day, but the perfect quiet
+of the town. The Prince goes on discharging the soldiers.
+
+_19th_.--This day the new ministers arrived from St. Paul's; the chief
+of whom in station, as in talent, is Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva.
+According to the opinion entertained of him by the people here, I should
+say that Cowper had described him, when he wrote
+
+      Great offices will have
+    Great talents. And God gives to every man
+    The virtue, temper, understanding, taste,
+    That lift him into life, and lets him fall
+    Just in the niche he was ordained to fill.
+    To the deliverer of an injured land
+    He gives a tongue to enlarge upon, a heart
+    To feel, and courage to redress her wrongs.
+
+He had been sent early from Brazil to study at Coimbra, where he lay
+sick at the time of the King's departure from Lisbon; and afterwards,
+during the time of the French, he could not find means to return to his
+native country; but upon the first rising of the people in the districts
+round Oporto and Coimbra, he put himself at the head of the students of
+the university, in their successful resistance to Junot, and afterwards
+served in the campaign against Soult. When he returned to Lisbon, I
+believe, he there entered the regular army; for after bearing arms
+against Massena, I find that at the end of the war he had the rank of
+lieutenant-colonel, with which he returned to Brazil in 1819. But his
+whole time in Europe was not spent in warfare: he had travelled, and had
+become acquainted with several among the most distinguished characters
+in England, France, and Italy, and had contracted a particular esteem
+for Alfieri. The object of his travels was rather to see and learn what
+might be useful to his own country, than the mere pleasure of visiting
+different parts of the world; and I am told, that he has particularly
+attended to those branches of science which may improve the agriculture
+and the mining of Brazil.
+
+One of his brothers, Martin Francisco, is possessed of scarcely less
+talent than himself; and their family, their character, and the esteem
+in which they are held, add weight not only to their own interest, but
+to the government which employs them.
+
+The guards and patroles were doubled along the road, by which they and
+the veteran General Corado arrived, as it was feared the Portuguese, who
+since the 12th have been completely distinct from the Brazilians, might
+have impeded their progress. However, every thing was perfectly
+tranquil.
+
+20_th_.--The Aurora arrived from Pernambuco and Bahia, at both which
+places it appears that every thing is quiet. But as the meeting of the
+camara of Bahia is to take place early next month, for the purpose of
+chusing a new provisional government, the English are apprehensive of
+some disturbance, and therefore we are to return thither to protect our
+friends in case of need.
+
+21_st_.--I went ashore to shop with Glennie. There are a good many
+English shops, such as saddlers, and stores, not unlike what we call in
+England an Italian warehouse, for eatables and drinkables; but the
+English here generally sell their goods wholesale to native or French
+retailers. The latter have a great many shops of mercery, haberdashery,
+and millinery. For tailors, I think, there are more English than French,
+and but few of either. There are bakers' shops of both nations, and
+plenty of English pot-houses, whose Union Jacks, Red Lions, Jolly Tars,
+with their English inscriptions, vie with those of Greenwich or
+Deptford. The goldsmiths all live in one street, called by their name
+_Rua dos Ourives_, and their goods are exposed in hanging frames at each
+side of the shop-door or window, in the fashion of two centuries back.
+The workmanship of their chains, crosses, buttons, and other ornaments,
+is exquisite, and the price of the labour, charged over the weight of
+the metal, moderate.
+
+Most of the streets are lined with English goods: at every door the
+words _London superfine_ meet the eye: printed cottons, broad cloths,
+crockery, but above all, hardware from Birmingham, are to be had little
+dearer than at home, in the Brazilian shops; besides silks, crapes, and
+other articles from China. But any thing bought by retail in an English
+or French shop is, usually speaking, very dear.
+
+I am amused at the apparent apathy of the Brazilian shopkeepers. If they
+are engaged, as now is not unfrequently the case, in talking politics,
+or reading a newspaper, or perhaps only enjoying a cool seat in the back
+of their shop, they will often say they have not the article enquired
+for, rather than rise to fetch it; and if the customer persists and
+points it out in the shop, he is coolly desired to get it for himself,
+and lay down the money. This happened several times during the course
+of our search for some tools for turning to-day along the Rua Direita,
+where every second house is a hardware shop, furnished from Sheffield
+and Birmingham.
+
+_22d_.--The Princess's birth-day was celebrated by firing of cannon, a
+review, and a drawing-room. Capt. Prescott, of the Aurora, and Capt.
+Graham, attended it. It seems the Prince took little or no notice of
+them, or any of the English. I think it probable that the Brazilians are
+jealous of us, on account of our long alliance with Portugal; and
+besides, they may take the converse of the maxim, "those that are not
+against us are for us;" and think because we are not for them, we are
+against them.[90]
+
+[Note 90: I have since learned that some very warm expressions of
+personal regard and sympathy used by an English officer (not, however,
+belonging either to the Aurora or Doris) to a Portuguese, with whom he
+had but a slight acquaintance, on occasion of his embarking for Praya
+Grande, had led the Portuguese to believe that it meant something more,
+and that, in case of need, the English would join with the Portuguese.
+This at least was whispered in the town, and very naturally accounts for
+the jealousy entertained against us.]
+
+_24th_.--We sailed at daylight for Bahia. It was one of the finest
+mornings of this fine climate, and the remarkable land behind the
+Sugar-loaf was seen to its best advantage in the early light. The
+extreme beauty of this country is such, that it is impossible not to
+talk and think of it for ever; not a turn but presents some scene both
+beautiful and new; and if a mountainous and picturesque country have
+really the power of attaching its inhabitants, above all others, the
+_Fluminenses_ ought to be as great patriots as any in the world.
+
+_February 8th, Bahia_.--After a fortnight's sail, the two first days of
+which were calm, followed by a gale of wind, which lasted nearly three
+days, we anchored to-day in the bay of All Saints, which we found
+looking as gaily beautiful as ever. The election of the new provisional
+government took place yesterday, quite peaceably; and of the seven
+members of the junta, only one is a native of Portugal.
+
+I remark, that the language of the writers of gazettes here is much
+bolder than at Rio; and I think that there is here a truly republican
+spirit among a very considerable number of persons: whether it extends
+throughout the province I cannot judge; but I am assured that a desire
+for independence, and a resolution to possess it, is universal.
+
+_10th_.--We went ashore yesterday. The advance of the season has ripened
+the oranges and mangoes since we left Bahia, and has increased the
+number of insects, so that the nights are no longer silent. The hissing,
+chirping, and buzzing of crickets, beetles, and grasshoppers, continue
+from sunset to sunrise; and all day long the trees and flowers are
+surrounded by myriads of brilliant wings. The most destructive insects
+are the ants, and every variety of them that can hurt vegetable life is
+to be found here. Some form nests, like huge hanging cones, among the
+branches of the trees, to which a covered gallery of clay from the
+ground may be traced along the trunk: others surround the trunks and
+larger branches with their nests; many more live under ground. I have
+seen in a single night the most flourishing orange-tree stripped of
+every leaf by this mischievous creature.
+
+_16th_.--We sailed from Bahia, finding every thing, to all appearance,
+quiet[91]; and no apprehension being entertained by the English, a ball
+at the consul's, another at Mrs. N.'s, and a third at Mrs. R.'s, at each
+of which, as many of our young men as could get ashore were present,
+made them very happy, and we had some very pleasant rides into the
+country. I had intended, if possible, visiting a huge mass, said to be
+so similar to the meteoric stones that have fallen in different parts of
+the world as to induce a belief that it is also one of them, although it
+weighs many tons, and I hoped to get a piece of it; but I find it is
+near Nazareth de Farinha, on the other side of the bay, and too far off
+for this present visit to Bahia. The first time we were at Bahia, I
+could not even learn where it was, so incurious are my countrymen here
+about what brings no profit.
+
+[Note 91: Very shortly after we sailed, I believe within a day or
+two, those disturbances broke out at Bahia, which lasted until the 2d of
+July, 1823.]
+
+_24th. Rio de Janeiro_.--Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage here
+from Bahia. The school-room proceeds exceedingly well, both with the
+master and the scholars; and as we are all in tolerable health, we look
+forward with no small pleasure to our voyage to Chile, for which we are
+preparing.
+
+During our absence, the Prince Don Pedro has been very active, and has
+dismissed all the Portuguese troops. On the ships being provided to
+transport them to Europe, they refused to embark, on which His Royal
+Highness caused a heavy frigate to anchor opposite to their quarters,
+and went on board himself the night before the morning appointed by him
+for their sailing. The steam-vessel attended for the purpose of towing
+the transports, in case of necessity; and several gun-vessels were
+stationed so as to command the barracks of the refractory regiments,
+while a body of Brazilian soldiers was stationed in the neighbourhood.
+The Prince was, during the greater part of the night, in his barge,
+going from vessel to vessel, and disposing every thing to make good his
+threat, that if the Portuguese were not all on board by eight o'clock
+the next morning, he would give them such a breakfast of Brazilian balls
+as should make them glad to leave the country. This he had been provoked
+to say, by a message from the officers and men, insolently delivered
+that very night, desiring more time to prepare for their voyage. Seeing
+His Royal Highness in earnest, which they could hardly be brought to
+believe he was, they thought it most prudent to do as they were bid; and
+accordingly embarked, to the no small joy of the Brazilians, who had
+long cordially hated them.
+
+_Friday, March 1st_.--The weather is now excessively hot, the
+thermometer being seldom under 88°, and we have had it on board at 92°
+Fahrenheit. Capt. Graham has had a slight attack of gout, for which
+reason I have not been ashore since our return from Bahia; but as he is
+a little better to-day he has insisted on my accompanying a party of our
+young men in an expedition up the harbour to see a country estate and
+factory.
+
+At one o'clock, our friend, Mr. N. called for us, with a large boat of
+the country, which is better for the purpose than our ship's boats.
+These vessels have a standing awning, and two very large triangular
+sails: they are managed according to their sizes by four, six, eight, or
+more negroes, besides the man at the helm: when rowing, the rowers rise
+at every stroke, and then throw themselves back on their seats. I think
+I have heard that within the memory of persons now in the navy it was
+the fashion to row the admiral's barges so in England. The boatmen are
+here universally negroes; some free, and owners of their boats; others
+slaves, who are obliged to take home a daily fixed sum to their masters,
+who often pass a life of total indolence, being fed in this way by their
+slaves.
+
+The place we were going to is Nossa Senhora da Luz, about twelve miles
+from Rio, up the harbour, near the mouth of the river Guaxindiba, which
+river rises in the hills of Taypu; and though its straight course is
+only five miles, its windings would measure twenty or more: it is
+navigable, and its banks are astonishingly fertile.
+
+The evening was charming, and we sailed past many a smiling island and
+gay wooded promontory, where gardens and country-houses are thickly
+scattered, and whence provisions in innumerable boats and canoes cross
+the bay every morning for the city. Our first view of N.S. da Luz
+presented such a high red bank, half covered with grass and trees,
+overhanging the water in the evening sun, as Cuyp would have chosen for
+a landscape; and just as I was wishing for something to animate it, the
+oxen belonging to the factory came down to drink and cool themselves in
+the bay, and completed the scene. The cattle here are large and
+well-shaped, something like our own Lancashire breed, and mottled in
+colour, though mostly red. On doubling the point of the bank, we came
+upon a small white church, with some venerable trees near it; beyond
+that was the house, with a long veranda, supported by white columns; and
+still farther on, the sugar-house, and the pottery and brick-work. We
+landed close to the house; but as the beach is shallow and muddy, we
+were carried ashore by negroes. Nothing can be finer than the scenery
+here. From the veranda, besides the picturesque and domestic
+fore-ground, we see the bay, dotted with rocky islands; one of these,
+called Itaoca, is remarkable as having, in the opinion of the Indians,
+been the residence of some divine person: it is connected with the
+traditions concerning their benefactor, Zome, who taught them the use of
+the mandioc, and whom the first missionaries here contrived to convert
+into St. Thomas the apostle. It consists of one immense stone cleft
+throughout, and a little earth and sand gathered round it, on which are
+trees and shrubs of the freshest verdure; some of the other islets are
+bare, and some again have houses and villages on them: the whole scene
+is terminated by the Organ Mountains, whose spiry and fantastic summits
+attracting the passing clouds, secure an everlasting variety to the eye.
+
+We found, that owing to our neglect in not sending beforehand to
+announce our visit, neither the master of the house nor his housekeeper
+were at home: however, Mr. N. being an old friend, went into the poultry
+yard, and ordered thence an excellent supper; and while it was
+preparing, we went to look at the pottery, which is only for the
+coarsest red ware. The wheel used here is the clumsiest and rudest I
+ever saw, and the potter is obliged to sit sideways by it. The clay,
+both for the pottery and the bricks, is dug on the spot; it is coarse
+and red: it is tempered by the trampling of mules; but all that we use
+spades and shovels for is done by the bare hands of the negroes: the
+furnaces for baking the bricks and jars are partly scooped out of the
+hill, and faced with brick. Leaving the pottery, we climbed the hill
+that marks the first approach to N.S. da Luz; and on the way up its
+steep and rugged side, our dogs disturbed a flock of sheep, as
+picturesque and as ragged as Paul Potter himself could have desired:
+they had been lying round the root of a huge old acacia, decorated with
+innumerable parasite plants, some of which cling like ivy to the trunk,
+and others climbing to the topmost boughs, fall thence in grey silky
+garlands, or, like the tillandsia, adorn them with hundreds of pink and
+white flowers; among these, many an ant and bee had fixed his nest, and
+every thing was teeming with life and beauty.
+
+The moon was up long before we returned from our ramble, and long before
+our host arrived. Had the Neapolitan ambassador, who told George the
+Third that the moon of his country was worth the sun of England, ever
+been in Brazil, I could almost forgive the hyperbole. The clear mild
+light playing on such scenery, and the cool refreshing breeze of
+evening, after a day of all but intolerable heat, render the night
+indeed the season of pleasure in this climate: nor were the rude songs
+of the negroes, as they loaded the boats to be ready to sail down the
+harbour with the morning’s land-breeze, unpleasing.
+
+As we were looking over the bay, a larger boat appeared: it neared the
+shore; and our host, Mr. Lewis P., who superintends the fazenda, landed,
+and kindly received our apology for coming without previous notice. The
+visit had long been talked of; but now our time at Rio was likely to be
+so short, that had we not come to-day, we might not have come at all. He
+led the way to the garden, where we passed the time till supper was
+ready. The midshipmen found more oranges, and better than they had yet
+met with, and did full justice to them. The fruit and vegetables of
+Europe and America, of the temperate and torrid zones, meet here; nor
+are their flowers forgotten: over against the little parterre, an orange
+and a tamarind tree shade a pleasant bench; close to which, in something
+of oriental taste, the white stucco wall of the well is raised and
+crowned with flower-pots, filled with roses and sweet herbs.
+
+_2d._--I rose at daylight, and rode with Mr. N. through the estate,
+while Mr. Dance, my cousin Glennie, and the two boys, went to shoot in
+the marsh by the river side.
+
+Every turn in our ride brought a new and varied landscape into view:
+beneath, the sugar-cane in luxuriant growth; above, the ripening orange
+and the palm; around and scattered through the plain enlivened by the
+windings of the Guazindiba, the lime, the guava, and a thousand odorous
+and splendid shrubs, beautified the path.--But all is new here. The long
+lines of fazenda houses, that now and then take from the solitariness of
+nature, suggest no association with any advance either of old or present
+time, in the arts that civilise or that ennoble man. The rudest
+manufactures, carried on by African slaves, one half of whom are newly
+imported, (that is, are still smarting under the separation from all
+that endears the home, even of a savage,) are all the approaches to
+improvement; and though nature is at least as fine as in India or in
+Italy, the want of some reference to man, as an intellectual and moral
+being, robs it of half its charms. However, I returned well pleased from
+my ride, and found my young sportsmen not less pleased with their
+morning's ramble. Not, indeed, that they had shot snipes, as they
+intended, but they had gotten a huge lizard (_Lacerta Marmorata_), of a
+kind they had not seen before. They had seen the large land-crab
+(_Ruricola_), and they had brought down a boatswain bird, a sort of
+pelican, (_Pelicanus Lencocephalus_), which they proposed to stuff.
+Accordingly after breakfast, as the weather was too hot to walk farther,
+the bird and the lizard were both skinned, the guns were cleaned, and I
+made a sketch of the landscape.
+
+In the evening I took a long walk to a point of view whence the whole
+bay with the city in the distance is distinctly seen, and on the way
+stopped at a cottage, where Mr. P. who is, literally, here "king,
+priest, and prophet," had some enquiry to make, concerning the health of
+the indwellers: these were two negroes, who have grown old in the
+service of the estate, and are no longer useful. I have seen examples of
+such being freed, that is, turned out of doors to starve. Here they
+would be entitled, by the rules of the estate, if not by law, to come
+every day for the same allowance as the working negroes: but they do not
+choose it. They indeed live in a hut, and on the ground of their master;
+but they maintain themselves by rearing a few fowls, and making baskets:
+so dear is the feeling of independence, even in old age, sickness, and
+slavery.
+
+_Sunday, 3d._--I went out before breakfast, with a negro carpenter for
+my guide. This man, with little instruction, has learned his art so as
+to be not only a good carpenter and joiner, but also a very tolerable
+cabinet-maker, and in other respects displays a quickness of
+understanding which gives no countenance to the pretended inferiority of
+negro intellect. I was much pleased with the observations he made on
+many things which I remarked as new, and with the perfect understanding
+he seemed to have of all country works. After breakfast, I attended the
+weekly muster of all the negroes of the fazenda; clean shirts and
+trowsers were given the men, and shifts and skirts to the women, of very
+coarse white cotton. Each, as he or she came in, kissed a hand, and then
+bowed to Mr. P. saying, either "Father, give me blessing," or "The names
+of Jesus and Mary be praised!" and were answered accordingly, either
+"Bless you," or "Be they praised." This is the custom in old
+establishments: it is repeated morning and evening, and seems to
+acknowledge a kind of relationship between master and slave. It must
+diminish the evils of slavery to one, the tyranny of mastership in the
+other, to acknowledge thus a common superior Master on whom they both
+depend.
+
+As each slave passed in review, some questions were asked concerning
+himself, his family, if he had one, or his work; and each received a
+portion of snuff or tobacco, according to his taste. Mr. P. is one of
+the few persons whom I have met conversant among slaves, who appears to
+have made them an object of rational and humane attention. He tells me
+that the creole negroes and mulattoes are far superior in industry to
+the Portuguese and Brazilians; who, from causes not difficult to be
+imagined, are for the most part indolent and ignorant. The negroes and
+mulattoes have strong motives to exertion of every kind, and succeed in
+what they undertake accordingly. They are the best artificers and
+artists. The orchestra of the opera-house is composed of at least
+one-third of mulattoes. All decorative painting, carving, and inlaying
+is done by them; in short, they excel in all ingenious mechanical arts.
+
+In the afternoon I attended Mr. P. to see the negroes receive their
+daily allowance of food. It consisted of farinha, kidney-beans, and
+dried beef, a fixed measure of each to every person. One man asked for
+two portions, on account of the absence of his neighbour, whose wife had
+desired it might be sent to her to make ready for him by the time he
+returned. Some enquiries which Mr. P. made about this person, induced me
+to ask his history. It seems he is a mulatto boatman, the most trusty
+servant on the estate, and rich, because he is industrious enough to
+have earned a good deal of private property, besides doing his duty to
+his master. In his youth, and he is not now old, he had become attached
+to a creole negress, born, like him, on the estate; but he did not marry
+her till he had earned money enough to purchase her, in order that their
+children, if they had any, might be born free. Since that time, he has
+become rich enough to purchase himself, even at the high price which
+such a slave might fetch; but his master will not sell him his freedom,
+his services being too valuable to lose, notwithstanding his promise to
+remain on the estate and work. Unfortunately these people have no
+children; therefore on their death their property, now considerable,
+will revert to the master. Had they children, as the woman is free, they
+might inherit the mother’s property; and there is nothing to prevent the
+father’s making over all he earns to her. I wish I had the talent of
+novel writing, for the sake of this slave’s story; but my writing, like
+my drawing, goes no farther than sketching from nature, and I make
+better artists welcome to use the subject.
+
+The evening was very stormy: deep clouds had covered the Organ
+Mountains; and vivid lightning, sharp rain, and boisterous wind, had
+threatened the fazenda with a night of terror. But it passed away,
+leaving all the grand and gloomy beauty of a departed thunder-storm in a
+mountainous country; when the moon broke through the clouds, and the
+night seemed, from the contrast with the last few hours, even lovelier
+than the last. Then just as the
+
+       "Sable clouds
+    Turned forth their silver lining on the night,
+    And cast a gleam over the tufted grove."
+
+I heard the sounds of music; not such, indeed, as Milton’s echo, with
+Henry Lawes’s notes, would have made,--of which the night and the scene
+had made me dream; but the voice of the slaves on this their night of
+holiday, beguiling their cares with uncouth airs, played on rude African
+instruments. Taking one of my ship-mates with me, I immediately went to
+the huts of the married slaves, where all merry-makings are held; and
+found parties playing, singing, and dancing to the moonlight. A
+superstitious veneration for that beautiful planet is said to be pretty
+general in savage Africa, as that for the Pleiades was among the
+Indians of Brazil; and probably the slaves, though baptized, dance to
+the moon in memory of their homes. As for the instruments, they are the
+most inartificial things that ever gave out musical sounds; yet they
+have not an unpleasing effect. One is simply composed of a crooked
+stick, a small hollow gourd, and a single string of brass wire. The
+mouth of the gourd must be placed on the naked skin of the side; so that
+the ribs of the player form the sounding-board, and the string is struck
+with a short stick. A second has more the appearance of a guitar: the
+hollow gourd is covered with skin; it has a bridge, and there are two
+strings; it is played with the finger. Another of the same class is
+played with a bow; it has but one string, but is fretted with the
+fingers. All these are called Gourmis. There were, besides, drums made
+of the hollow trunks of trees, four or five feet long, closed at one end
+with wood, and covered with skin at the other. In playing these, the
+drummer lays his instrument on the ground and gets astride on it, when
+he beats time with his hands to his own songs, or the tunes of the
+gourmis. The small marimba has a very sweet tone. On a flat piece of
+sonorous wood a little bridge is fastened; and to this small slips of
+iron, of different lengths, are attached, so as that both ends vibrate
+on the board, one end being broader and more elevated than the other.
+This broad end is played with the thumbs, the instrument being held with
+both hands. All these are tuned in a peculiar manner, and with great
+nicety, especially the marimba[92]; but, as I am no musician, I cannot
+explain their methods.
+
+[Note 92: The simplest of these stringed instruments, and two kinds
+of marimba, have found a place in the Jesuit Bonnanis’ _Gabinetto
+Armonica_, printed at Rome, 1722, and dedicated to Holy King David. The
+great marimba consists of a large wooden frame; in which a number of
+hollow canes, about nine inches long, are placed, with the mouth
+upwards; across these open ends are laid pieces of sonorous wood, which
+being struck with another yield a pleasant sound, like the wooden
+armonicas of Malacca. The whole is suspended round the neck, like the
+old man’s psaltery in the Dance of Death. Each nation of negroes has its
+own peculiar instrument, which its exiles have introduced here. A king
+of each tribe is annually elected, to whom his people are obedient,
+something in the way of the gipsy monarchy. Before 1806 the election
+took place with great ceremony and feasting, and sometimes fighting, in
+the Campo de Sta. Anna; and the king of the whole was seated during the
+day in the centre of the square under a huge state umbrella. This
+festival is now abolished.]
+
+_4th_.--I was very sorry indeed this morning at sunrise, when I saw the
+boats ready to convey us from N.S. da Luz, where we had enjoyed our
+three days as much as possible; a cheerful party, a kind host, free
+disposal of our time, and no business but such as might beseem the
+individuals of this castle of indolence, "where every man strolled off
+his own glad way."
+
+    "There freedom reigned without the least alloy;
+    Nor gossip's tale, nor ancient maiden’s gall,
+    Nor saintly spleen, durst murmur at our joy,
+    And with envenomed tongue our pleasures pall.
+    For why? There was but one great rule for all;
+    To wit, that each should work his own desire."
+
+We returned to the ship by a different way from that by which we went,
+through the archipelago of beautiful islands on the eastern side of the
+harbour; and I had the pleasure to find the Captain really better,
+though still with tender feet.
+
+_6th_.--His Majesty’s ship, Slaney, Capt. Stanhope, sailed from Rio.
+
+_7th_.--The Superb arrived from Valparaiso, bringing no news of
+importance. Indeed, if she had, we are scarcely in a state to attend to
+it: we have sat up all night with B., one of our midshipmen, who is
+dangerously ill.
+
+_8th_.--Captain Graham not feeling well enough to leave the ship, I went
+with Captain Prescott of the Aurora, to visit the French Commodore
+Roussin on board the Amazone. I have seldom been better pleased. The
+captains of the other French ships were there, to receive us. All the
+urbanity of Frenchmen, joined with the delightful frankness of the
+profession, assured us we were welcome. The ship itself, every part of
+which we saw, is a model of all that can be done, either in the
+dock-yard at home, or by officers afloat, for comfort, health, and
+cleanliness, and is well as a man of war. Her captain, however, is a
+superior man; and many ships of every and any nation might be visited
+before his equal would be met with. I wish it were possible that we
+should introduce into our ships the oven on the lower deck, which gives
+fresh bread twice a week for the whole ship’s company, not only for the
+sake of the bread, but the heating it must air and ventilate the ship.
+
+_9th_.--The Portuguese squadron from Lisbon, with a reinforcement of
+troops, arrived off the harbour. Troops are sent to reinforce the
+garrisons in the forts, at the entrance; and the ships are forbidden to
+enter, but promised victuals and water to carry them to Lisbon. I was on
+shore all day on business, preparatory to our sailing for Valparaiso.
+Captain Graham being too unwell to venture out of the ship himself, he
+therefore undertook to nurse the invalid for me. I returned late. I
+found B. dangerously ill, and Captain Graham very uneasy.
+
+I received many persons on board, and took leave of many.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_10th_.--We sailed at daylight from Rio, in full hope that the cool
+weather we shall find on going round Cape Horn, and the fine climate of
+Chile, will do us all good. I have not been in bed for three nights; my
+invalids are in that state, that night watching is necessary for them.
+
+_13th_.--In addition to our other troubles, the first lieutenant is
+taken dangerously ill: but Captain Graham appears better, though not yet
+able to go on deck.
+
+_16th_.--Yesterday afternoon the mercury in the barometer sunk in a
+very short space of time a whole inch, and we had a gale of wind. The
+cold is sensibly increased. Fahrenheit’s thermometer often stood at 92°
+in Rio harbour; it is now 68°, and we have many sick. B. is getting
+better.
+
+_17th_.--Wind and sea abated, and the barometer rising once more; the
+mercury stands at 30 inches and two-tenths. I have lain down at four
+o'clock these two mornings, Glennie having kindly relieved my watching
+at that hour. We have removed the dead-lights from the cabin windows.
+
+_18th_.--Every thing better. The young people again at school. Some
+lunars taken. We are in 36° 55' S. latitude, and the thermometer is at
+68°.; barometer 30-2.
+
+On the 19_th_ and 20_th_ the mercury in the barometer sunk gradually
+from 30 to 29-02, and rose again as before on the 21st. It blew hard;
+the thermometer fell to 58°, in latitude 42° S. There are many
+albatrosses and stormy petrels about the ship.
+
+_22d_.--Latitude 46° 25' S., longitude 52° 40' W. The weather very cold,
+though the thermometer is at 56°, barometer 29-08; a very heavy swell.
+Great numbers of the Cape pigeon about the ship.
+
+_24th_.--Latitude 50° 30'; thermometer 44° morning and evening, 47° at
+noon. Seeing two penguins to-day, we supposed some land must be near,
+but found no bottom with 100 fathoms line. The cold weather seems to
+have a good effect on our invalids. The barometer fell suddenly, and a
+strong S.W. wind succeeded, and we were glad to light a fire in the
+cabin.
+
+I am sorry we have passed so far out of sight of the Falkland Islands,
+Sir John Hawkins’s maiden land. The idea of seeing a town left standing
+as it was, by all its inhabitants at once, and of the tame animals
+becoming wild, had something romantic. It seemed like a realisation of
+the Arabian tale of the half-marble prince, and in real interest comes
+near the discovery of the lost Greenland settlements. I do not know any
+thing that gratifies the imagination, more than the situations and
+incidents that by bringing distant periods of time together, places
+them, as it were, at once within our own reach. I remember some years
+ago spending a whole day with no companion but my guide at Pompeii, and
+becoming so intimate with the ancients, their ways, and manners, that I
+felt, when I went home to Naples, and its lazaroni, and its English
+travellers, as I suppose, that one of the seven sleepers to have done,
+who went to purchase bread with money five centuries old. As to the
+marble cities of Moorish Africa, when we consider their exposure to the
+sirocco, and read Dolomieu's Experiments on the Atmosphere, during the
+prevalence of that wind at Malta, we shall find but too probable a
+reason for their existence as reported.
+
+_25th_.--Latitude 51° 58' S., longitude 51° W., thermometer 41°. Strong
+south-westerly gales and heavy sea. Just as our friends in England are
+looking forward to spring, its gay light days and early flowers, we are
+sailing towards frozen regions, where avarice’ self has been forced to
+give up half-formed settlements by the severity of the climate. We are
+in the midst of a dark boisterous sea; over us, a dense, grey, cold sky.
+The albatross, stormy petrel, and pintado are our companions; yet there
+is a pleasure in stemming the apparently irresistible waves, and in
+wrestling thus with the elements. I forget what writer it is who
+observes, that the sublime and the ridiculous border on each other; I am
+sure they approach very nearly at sea. If I look abroad, I see the
+grandest and most sublime object in nature,--the ocean raging in its
+might, and man, in all his honour, and dignity, and powers of mind and
+body, wrestling with and commanding it: then I look within, round my
+little home in the cabin, and every roll of the ship causes accidents
+irresistibly ludicrous; and in spite of the inconveniences they bring
+with them, one cannot choose but laugh. Sometimes, in spite of all usual
+precautions, of cushions and clothes, the breakfast-table is suddenly
+stripped of half its load, which is lodged in the lee scuppers, whither
+the coal-scuttle and its contents had adjourned the instant before: then
+succeed the school-room distresses of _capsized_ ink-stands, broken
+slates, torn books, and lost places; not to mention the loss of many a
+painful calculation, and other evils exquisite in their kind, but
+abundantly laughable, especially, as it happened just now, if the
+school-master is induced to measure his length on the deck, when in the
+act of reprimanding the carelessness which subjects the slates and books
+to these untoward chances.
+
+_28th_.--Latitude 55° 26' S., longitude 56° 11' W. Captain Graham and
+the first lieutenant still both very ill. At one o'clock this morning
+the mercury in the barometer sunk to 28-09; at seven it rose again to
+29-01. The thermometer is at 38° of Fahrenheit, and we have had squalls
+of snow and sleet, and a heavy sea. There are flocks of very small birds
+about the ship, and we have seen a great many whales.
+
+_30th_.--Latitude 56° 51' S., longitude 59° W.; the thermometer at 30°
+this morning, and 32° at noon. A violent gale of wind from the
+south-west; the only thing like a hard gale since we left England. I had
+breakfast spread on the cabin deck, as it was not possible to secure any
+thing on a table. Clarke, one of the quartermasters, had two ribs broken
+by a fall on deck; and Sinclair, a very strong man, was taken ill after
+being an hour at the wheel. We have made gloves for the men at the wheel
+of canvass, lined with dreadnought; and for the people at night,
+waistbands of canvass, with dreadnought linings. The snow and hail
+squalls are very severe; ice forms in every fold of the sails. This is
+hard upon the men, so soon after leaving Rio in the hottest part of the
+year.
+
+Yesterday morning, about an hour before sunrise, a bright meteor was
+seen in the south-west. It was first taken for the signal lanterns of a
+large ship; then the officer of the watch thought it was a blue light,
+and we made no doubt of its being Sir T. Hardy in the Creole. It
+remained a long time stationary; then it was lost behind the clouds, and
+reappeared between them about 10° high, when it disappeared.[93]
+
+[Note 93: Frezier mentions seeing such a meteor in latitude 57° 30'
+S., and longitude 69° W., in 1712.]
+
+_April 1st_.--Latitude 57° 46'; the weather much more mild and moderate.
+Our young men have caught a number of birds, principally petrels; the P.
+Pelagica, or Mother Cary's chicken, is the least; the P. Pintado is
+gayest on the water; but the P. Glacialis, or fulmer, is most beautiful
+when brought on board: I cannot enough admire the delicate beauty of the
+snow-white plumage, unwet and unsoiled, amid the salt waves. The poets
+have scandalised both the arctic and antarctic regions as
+
+      "A bleak expanse,
+    Shagg'd o'er with wavy rocks, cheerless and _void
+    Of ev'ry life_;"
+
+yet, on Capt. Parry's approach to the north pole, he found the solitude
+teeming with _life_; and the farther south we have sailed, the more
+_life_ we have found on the waters. Yesterday the sea was covered with
+albatrosses, and four kinds of petrel: the penguin comes near us; shoals
+of porpoises are constantly flitting by, and whales for ever rising to
+the surface and blowing alongside of the ship.
+
+With the thermometer not lower than 30°, we feel the cold excessive.
+Yesterday morning the main rigging was cased in ice; and the ropes were
+so frozen after the sleet in the night, that it was difficult to work
+them. I never see these things but I think of Thomson's description of
+Sir Hugh Willoughby's attempt to discover the northwest passage, when
+
+      "He with his hapless crew,
+    Each full exerted at his several task,
+    Froze into statues; to the cordage glued
+    The sailor, and the pilot to the helm."
+
+I was glad to-day, when the dead-lights were removed, to see the bright,
+blue, but still boisterous sea, spreading with ample waves curled with
+snowy tops, in the sunshine; it is many days since we have seen the sun,
+and the white birds flying and chattering, or wrestling on the water,
+while the ship, like them, sometimes bravely mounts the very top of the
+wave, and sometimes quietly subsides with it. These are the things we
+behold "who go down to the sea in ships, "and occupy our business in the
+great waters." No one can imagine, who has not felt, the exhilaration
+of spirits produced by a dry clear day of sunshine at sea, after a week
+of rain and snow.
+
+_April 2d_.--A few minutes after noon, an iceberg was reported on the
+lee-bow. As I had never seen one, I went on deck for the first time
+since we left Rio to see it.[94] It appeared like a moderately high
+conical hill, and looked very white upon the bleak grey sky; it might be
+about twelve miles from us. The temperature of the water was 36° of
+Fahrenheit's thermometer, that of the air 38°, when the ice was nearest.
+
+[Note 94: We passed another on the 8th, which Glennie calculated to
+be 410 feet high; it was near enough for us to see the waves break on
+it. In conversing on this subject with the officers since,--for at the
+time I was indeed unable to think of it,--I find there is reason to
+think that, instead of an iceberg, we saw land on the 8th. It was seen
+in the latitude and longitude of an island visited by Drake, marked in
+the old charts.]
+
+For some few days the violent motion of the ship, occasioned by the
+heavy sea, has rendered writing and drawing irksome; for, as Lord
+Dorset's song has it,
+
+    "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,
+    Roll up and down our ships, at sea."
+
+Nevertheless we are not idle. As the cabin has always a good fire in it,
+it is the general rendezvous for invalids; and the midshipmen come in
+and out as they please, as it is the school-room. In one corner Glennie
+has his apparatus for skinning and dissecting the birds we take; and we
+have constantly occasion to admire the beautiful contrivances of nature
+in providing for her creatures. These huge sea-birds, that we find so
+far from any land, have on each side large air-vessels adapted for
+floating them in the air, or on the water; they are placed below the
+wings, and the liver, gizzard, and entrails rest on them. In each
+gizzard of those we have yet opened, there have been two small pebbles,
+of unequal size; and the gizzard is very rough within. We have found
+more vegetable than animal food in their stomachs.
+
+_20th April, 1822_.--To-day we made the coast of Chile. I had continued
+to write my Journal regularly; but though nearly two years are past
+since I wrote it, I cannot bring myself to copy it: from the 3d of April
+it became a register of acute suffering; and, on my part, of alternate
+hopes and fears through days and nights of darkness and storms, which
+aggravated the wretchedness of those wretched hours. On the night of the
+ninth of April, I regularly undressed and went to bed for the first time
+since I left Rio de Janeiro. All was then over, and I slept long and
+rested; but I awoke to the consciousness of being alone, and a widow,
+with half the globe between me and my kindred.
+
+Many things very painful occurred. But I had comfort too. I found
+sympathy and brotherly help from some; and I was not insensible to the
+affectionate behaviour of _my boys_, as the midshipmen were called. And
+I had the comfort to feel that no stranger hand had closed his eyes, or
+smoothed his pillow.
+
+Mr. London and Mr. Kift, the surgeon and assistant surgeon, never left
+the bed-side; and, when my strength failed, my cousin Mr. Glennie, and
+Mr. Blatchly, two passed midshipmen, did all that friends could do.
+
+Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant,--though, from the illness of the first
+lieutenant, the whole business of the ship devolved on him,--found time
+to be near his friend's death-bed; and, whether at noon or midnight, was
+never absent where kindness could be shown.
+
+But what could any human kindness do for me? My comfort must come from
+him who in his own time will "wipe off all tears from our faces."
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+Before I begin the Journal of my Second Visit to Brazil, from which I
+was absent a year and three days, it will be necessary to give a short
+account of the principal events which took place during that year, and
+which changed the government of the country.
+
+The Prince Regent had in vain sent the most pressing representations in
+favour of Brazil to the Cortes. No notice whatever was taken of his
+despatches; and the government at Lisbon continued to legislate for
+Brazil as if it were a settlement on the coast of savage Africa. The
+ministers who had served Don John had seen enough of the country, during
+their residence in it, to be persuaded that Brazil, united, was at any
+time competent to throw off all subjection to the mother country; the
+object, therefore, became to divide it. Accordingly a scheme for the
+government of Brazil was framed, by which each captaincy should be ruled
+by a junta, whose acts were to be totally independent on each other, and
+only recognisable by the authorities in Portugal; and the Prince was
+ordered home in a peremptory and indecent manner. I have mentioned in my
+Journal the reception those orders had met with, and the resolution His
+Royal Highness had adopted of staying in Brazil. As soon as this
+resolution became known to the provinces, addresses and deputations
+poured in on all sides from every town and captaincy, excepting the city
+of Bahia and the province of Maranliam, which had always had a
+government independent of the rest of Brazil.
+
+In December, 1821, the King had appointed General Madeira governor of
+Bahia and commander of the troops. He entered on his office in February;
+and shortly afterwards the first actual warfare between the Portuguese
+and Brazilians began in the city of St. Salvador, on the 6th of the
+month, when the Brazilians were defeated with some loss.[95] Meantime,
+the province of St. Paul's had made every exertion to raise and arm
+troops; and early in February 1100 men marched towards Rio, to put
+themselves at the disposal of the Prince. Some recruits for the seamen
+and marine corps were raised, and a naval academy established, the
+object of all which was to prevent the carrying away the Prince by
+force. It was now thought advisable that the Prince should visit the two
+most important provinces, St. Paul's and the Mines; and on the 26th or
+27th of March he left Rio for that purpose, leaving the executive
+government in the hands of the minister José Bonifacio. His Royal
+Highness was received every where with enthusiasm, until he arrived at
+the last stage, on his way to Villa Rica, the capital of the province of
+Minas Geraes; there he received intelligence of a party raised to oppose
+his entrance by the Juiz de Fora, supported by a captain of one of the
+regiments of Caçadores. He immediately caused some troops to be
+assembled and joined with those which accompanied him, and then remained
+where he was, and sent to the camara of the town, to say he was able to
+enter by force, but had rather come among them as a friend and
+protector. Several messages passed; the conspirators discovered that the
+Prince was, indeed, sufficiently strong to overpower them; and besides,
+they met with no support, as they had hoped, from the magistrates or
+people. His Royal Highness, therefore, entered Villa Rica on the 9th of
+April, and on the magistrates and people attending to compliment him, he
+addressed them thus:--
+
+"Brave Mineros! The shackles of despotism, which began to be loosened on
+the 24th of August in Porto, are now bursting in this province. Be
+free,--be constitutional! Unite with me, and proceed constitutionally. I
+rely entirely on you. Do you depend on me. Let not yourselves be deluded
+by those who seek the ruin of your province, and of the whole nation.
+
+    Viva, The Constitutional King!
+    Viva, Our Religion!
+    Viva, All honest men!
+    Viva, The Mineros!"
+
+[Note 95: On the 25th of May following a solemn mass was performed
+for the souls of those who had fallen on both sides, at the expense of
+the Bahians resident at Rio, in the church of San Francesco de Paulo.
+The cenotaph raised in the church was surrounded by inscriptions, in
+Latin and Portuguese; one of the most striking is, "Eternal glory to
+those who give their blood for their country."
+
+    ("He quha dies for his cuntre
+    Sal herbyrit intil bewyn be," says _Barbour_.)
+
+The day was one of those Brazilian rainy days, when it should seem
+another deluge was coming: but the Prince and Princess were the first at
+the ceremony.]
+
+The next day the Prince held a general court, and remained eleven days
+at Villa Rica. The only punishment inflicted on the conspirators, was
+suspension from their offices; and this royal visit attached this
+province to him, as firmly as those of St. Paul's and Rio.
+
+He returned to Rio de Janeiro on the 25th, where he was received in the
+most flattering manner, and where he became daily more popular; and on
+the 13th of May, King John's birth-day, the senate and people bestowed
+on him the title of Perpetual Defender of Brazil, and thenceforward his
+style was, CONSTITUTIONAL PRINCE REGENT, AND PERPETUAL DEFENDER OF THE
+KINGDOM OF BRAZIL.
+
+The impossibility of continuing united to Portugal had become daily more
+apparent. All the southern provinces were eager to declare their
+independence. Pernambuco and its dependencies had long manifested a
+similar feeling, and the province of Bahia was equally inclined to
+freedom although the city was full of Portuguese troops under Madeira,
+and receiving constant reinforcements and supplies from Lisbon.
+
+The Cortes seemed resolved on bringing matters to extremities; the
+language used in their sessions, with respect to the Prince, was highly
+indecent. Such commanders either by sea or land as obeyed him, unless
+by force, were declared traitors, and he was ordered home anew within
+four months, under pain of submitting to the future disposition of the
+Cortes; and they decreed that the whole means of government should be
+employed to enforce obedience. The Brazilian members did indeed
+remonstrate and protest formally against these proceedings; but they
+were over-ruled; and the spectators in the galleries, on one occasion,
+went so far as to cry, "Down with the Brazilian!"
+
+In the months of June and July, Madeira began to make sallies into the
+country around Bahia, as if it had been possessed by an enemy; and,
+indeed, he quickly found one most formidable. The town of Cachoeira,
+large and populous, and intimately connected with the hardy inhabitants
+of the Certam, soon became the head-quarters of crowds of patriots, who
+assembled there, and resolved to expel the Portuguese from their
+capital.
+
+They began to form regular troops; but though they were abundantly
+supplied with beef and other provisions, they were in want of arms and
+ammunition, and sent to Rio de Janeiro to represent their situation to
+the Prince, and request assistance. They were also in great distress for
+salt to preserve their provisions; and as to accoutrements, raw hides
+supplied the place of almost every thing. An apothecary, in Cachoeira,
+shortly began to boil sea-water in sugar-coppers, to make salt, and soon
+reduced the price of that article, so that the quantity at first sold
+for ten pataccas (eighteen shillings) fell to seven vintems (seven
+pence). The same apothecary, collecting all the salt-petre in the
+neighbourhood, applied himself to making of gunpowder, and a fortunate
+discovery of some hundred barrels smuggled into Itaparica by some
+English, was of essential use to them. But they had no cannon, no lead
+for ball for their muskets and matchlocks; the lead, indeed, and a
+quantity of gun-locks, their friends within the city contrived to
+smuggle to them; and their guns were supplied in the following manner.
+In each engenho, there was an old gun or two for the purpose of
+balancing some part of the machinery; these were at once sent to
+Cachoeira, where, being cleaned and bushed by an ingenious blacksmith,
+they were rendered serviceable; and the patriots ventured to take the
+field against Madeira's parties, even before the arrival of any
+assistance from Rio.
+
+Meantime, news of these transactions arrived at Rio, as well as notice
+of the decrees of the Cortes at Lisbon. The Prince and people no longer
+hesitated. His Royal Highness, together with the senate, issued
+proclamations on the _3d_ of June, calling together a representative and
+legislative assembly, to be composed of members from every province and
+town, to meet in the city of Rio; and on the first of August he
+published that noble manifesto, by which the independence of Brazil was
+openly asserted, the grounds of its claims clearly stated, and the
+people exhorted to let no voice but that of honour be heard among them,
+and to let the shores, from the Amazons to the Plata, resound with no
+cry but that of independence. On the same day, a decree was put forth to
+resist the hostilities of Portugal, containing the following
+articles:--1st, All troops sent by any country whatever, without leave
+obtained from the Prince, shall be accounted enemies: 2d, If they come
+in peace, they shall remain on board their ships, and shall not
+communicate with the shore; but, having received supplies, shall depart:
+3d, That in case of disobedience, they shall be repulsed by force: 4th,
+If they force a landing in any weak point, the inhabitants shall retire
+to the interior, with all their moveables, and the militia shall make
+war as guerillas against the strangers: 5th, That all governors, &c.
+shall fortify their ports, &c.: 6th, Reports to be forthwith made of the
+state of the ports in Brazil, for that end.
+
+This last decree had been anticipated by the Pernambucans, who had
+marched a body of troops to the assistance of the patriots of Cachoeira,
+and a most harassing warfare was commenced against the Portuguese in St.
+Salvador: these last had received a reinforcement of seven hundred men
+on the 8th of August; but they had hardly had time to exult in their
+arrival, when a squadron from Rio Janeiro disembarked at Alagoas 5000
+guns, six field-pieces, 270,000 cartridges, 2000 pikes, 500 carbines,
+500 pistols, 500 cutlasses, and 260 men, chiefly officers, under
+Brigadier-general Lebatu[96], who soon joined the patriots, and fixed
+his head-quarters at Cachoeira, having stretched a line of troops across
+the peninsula on which the town is placed, and thus cut it off from
+provisions on that side; but the sea being still open, supplies were
+abundant, not only from abroad, but from the opposite island of
+Itaparica. That fertile district, however, was soon occupied by the
+Brazilians; and Madeira had only his supplies from seaward, unless he
+could by force dislodge the Brazilians from their quarters on that
+island.
+
+[Note 96: This gentleman was an officer under Napoleon, in the
+Spanish war. For some military irregularity, he was dismissed; but
+pardoned on condition of living in Cayenne, and procuring information
+for the French government. He left that country, however, and settled in
+Brazil; where, with the exception of a short time spent in the service
+of Bolivar, he had lived quietly and respectably till the present
+juncture.]
+
+The cabinet of Rio became sensible that it was necessary to provide a
+naval force, if they wished to preserve the kingdom from the farther
+attacks of Portugal, or to dislodge the enemy from his strong-hold in
+Bahia. Accordingly, the agents of the government in England were
+employed to engage officers and men: some were collected on the spot;
+others, such as Captain David Jewet, from Buenos Ayres and America, were
+instantly employed; and all exertions were made to repair such of the
+ships left behind by King John as would bear the repairs.
+
+At length, on the 12th of October, the birth-day of the Prince, the
+troops being, as usual, assembled in the great square of Santa Anna, and
+a great concourse of people attending, the Prince was suddenly hailed
+Emperor of Brazil, and the kingdom changed in style and title, and all
+dependence on, or connection with Portugal, for ever abjured.
+
+This event seemed to give new spirit to the war of Bahia: as it
+exasperated the Portuguese, so it encouraged the Brazilians, now assured
+of independence. Madeira, resolved, if possible, to gain a communication
+with Nazareth on one of the rivers of the Reconcave, which is most
+fertile, and furnishes abundance of farinha, sent one hundred men of
+the Caçadores, under Colonel Russel, to attempt to gain possession of
+the Ulha do Medo, which commands the Funil, or passage between the
+mainland and Itaparica leading to Nazareth; but their boats grounded,
+and they were obliged to wait for the tide, while the Brazilians, who
+are excellent marksmen, and were concealed among the bushes ashore,
+picked them off at leisure. Another expedition, equally unfortunate, was
+sent with a large gun-vessel to Cachoeira, and arrived off the public
+square, just as it was filled with people proclaiming the Emperor. The
+guns began to play on the mob; but the tide was low, and the shot,
+instead of reaching the people, only struck the quays, and did little
+damage. The Brazilian soldiers now crowded to the wharfs, and thence
+commenced so brisk a fire on the enemy, that the commander of the vessel
+retreated hastily without killing a man, though he lost many. In this
+action Dona Maria de Jesus distinguished herself; for the spirit of
+patriotism had not confined itself to the men.[97]
+
+[Note 97: Of her, see more in the Journal.]
+
+The most considerable expedition sent by Madeira from Bahia was to the
+Punto de Itaparica, the possession of which was becoming daily more
+important, as the provisions in the town diminished. For this purpose
+1500 men were embarked on board the Promtadao, and two other brigs of
+war; they were to land half on one side and half on the other of the
+little peninsula forming the Punto, on which there is a small fort and
+town, which the troops were to attack while the brigs fired on the fort.
+The passage from Bahia to this point is usually of six or seven hours at
+most, allowing for a contrary wind; but these vessels were two days in
+reaching it, by which time the Brazilians had thrown up heaps of sand;
+behind which they lay concealed, and deliberately fired on the
+Lusitanians as they passed, and committed great slaughter, without the
+loss of a man, though they had several wounded. This action, if it may
+be called so, took place on the 2d of January, 1823, and lasted from
+noon till sunset.
+
+Meantime the land side of the city had been harassed by continual
+attacks, and the troops worn out with constant watching; for the
+Brazilians were continually riding about in the woods, and beating
+marches, and causing their trumpets to sound to charge in the night, and
+by the time the enemy could reach the spot they were fled. On the 18th
+of November, 1822, however, Madeira made a sortie, and was met by the
+Brazilians at Piraja, between two and three leagues from the city, when
+a severe action took place, with some loss on both sides, and both
+claimed the victory; but as the Lusitanians retired to the town, and the
+Brazilians took up new positions close to the city gates, the advantage
+must undoubtedly have been on the side of the latter. Meantime the
+scarcity of fresh provisions was such, that all the foreign merchants
+who had families, and who could by any means remove, did so. All the
+country-houses were abandoned, and the people crowded into the town. The
+heaviest contributions were levied on all natives and foreigners, and
+the misery of a siege was coming upon the city.
+
+Rio de Janeiro presented a very different spectacle. The inhabitants
+were decorating their town with triumphal arches for the coronation of
+their Emperor, who, on the 1st of December, was solemnly crowned in the
+chapel of the palace, which serves as the cathedral; and it is no
+exaggeration to say, that the whole of southern Brazil presented one
+scene of joy.
+
+The ministers, no less than the monarch, were beloved. The finances
+began to assume a flourishing aspect: large subscriptions flowed in from
+all quarters for the equipment of a fleet; and an invitation had been
+sent to Lord Cochrane to command it. The Emperor had accepted the most
+moderate income that ever crowned head was contented withal[98], in
+order to spare his people. He visited his dock-yards and arsenals
+himself; attended business of every kind; encouraged improvements in
+every department, and Brazil had begun to assume a most flourishing
+aspect. Such was the state of things when I arrived for the second time
+in Brazil, along with Lord Cochrane, on the 13th of March, 1823.
+
+[Note 98: Less than twenty thousand pounds sterling a year.]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+_March 13th, 1823. On board the Col. Allen, at anchor in Rio de
+Janeiro_.--One of the most windy and rainy days that I ever remember
+seeing in Brazil; so that the beautiful landscape of the harbour is
+entirely lost to the strangers from Chile, and I cannot get ashore
+either to provide lodgings for myself and my invalid[99], or to assist
+my friends in any way. When the officer of the visiting boat came on
+board, the captain of the ship showed him into the cabin, and left him
+with me. I found he spoke English, and immediately began to enquire of
+him concerning the news of Rio. And first he mentioned the coronation of
+the Emperor, and then the war at Bahia; on which I questioned him very
+closely, on the ground of having formerly visited the place. It appears
+that last night only His Imperial Majesty's ships Unaŏ, (now Piranga,)
+Nitherohy, and Liberal, with a fleet of transports, had returned from
+Alagoas, where they had landed reinforcements for General Labatu; whose
+head-quarters are at Cachoeira, and who is investing the city of Bahia
+closely. General Madeira has a strong force of Portuguese soldiers,
+besides 2000 seamen which occasionally do duty ashore, and a
+considerable naval force.[100] But it appears, that the seamen are on
+the point of mutining for want of pay. Having told me so much, the
+officer began to question me in my turn,--Did I come from Chile? Did I
+know Lord Cochrane? was he coming to Rio? for all eyes were turned
+towards him. When he found that His Lordship was actually on board, he
+flew to his cabin door, and entreated to kiss his hands; then snatched
+his hat, and calling to the captain to do as he would, and anchor where
+he pleased without ceremony, jumped over the side to be the first, if
+possible, to convey to the Emperor the joyful intelligence. Nearly the
+same scene was acted over when Perez, the port-captain, came on board;
+and in a few minutes Captain Garçaŏ of the Liberal came to pay his
+respects, and shortly afterwards Captain Taylor of the Nitherohy, from
+whom we learned something more of the state of His Imperial Majesty's
+fleet. The Pedro Primeiro, formerly the Martim Freitas, had been left by
+the King in want of thorough repair; this she has had, and came out of
+dock yesterday; she is said to sail well. The Caroline is a fine
+frigate, but not commissioned, for want of men. The Unaŏ is a very fine
+ship, wants copper, and is commanded by Captain Jewitt. The Nitherohy is
+a corvette, well found, and in good repair, but a heavy sailer; and the
+Maria da Gloria, a fine corvette, is commanded by a French officer,
+Captain Beaurepair. The great difficulty the navy here has to dread is
+the want of men.[101] Portuguese sailors are worse than none; few
+Brazilians are sailors at all, and French, English, and Americans are
+very scarce. The Emperor is fond of the navy, and very active in looking
+into every department. He is often in the dock-yards by daylight, and
+the Empress generally accompanies him.
+
+[Note 99: My cousin Mr. Glennie invalided, from the Doris, having
+broken a blood-vessel.]
+
+[Note 100: Don Joam Sesto, 80 guns.--Constituiçam, 56.--Corvette, 10
+de Fevreiro, 29.--Active, 22.--Calypso, 22.--Regeneraçaŏ, 22.--A
+store-ship, 28.--Brig Audaz, 18.--Promptidaŏ, 16.--Smack Emilia,
+8.--Conceiçam, 8.
+
+_Armed Merchant Vessels_.--San Domingo, 20 guns.--Restauraçam, 24.--San
+Gualter, 26.--Bisarra, 18.]
+
+[Note 101: The pay of seamen is but scanty. The advertisement of
+February for seamen to man the Pedro Primeiro is as follows:--To
+able-bodied seamen 8 mil. bounty; 4 mil. 800 rees to ordinary seamen.
+Monthly pay, 8 mil. to able-bodied seamen, 6mil. 500 rees to ordinary, 4
+mil. 800 rees to others, and 3 mil. to landsmen.--This very day, 13th of
+March, the able seamen's monthly pay was raised to 10 mil.; that of
+ordinaries to 8 mil.
+
+Shortly afterwards a farther advance was made, and petty officers
+received extra pay, which they had not hitherto done. The bounty was
+also increased.
+
+The pay in Bellard's foreign regiment, 8 mil. bounty, 80 rees per day,
+40 rees stranger money, (both together 6_d_. sterling,) 24 oz. bread, 1
+lb. meat, and clothing.]
+
+Their Majesties appear by all accounts to be highly popular. Their
+youth, their spirit, the singular situation in which they are placed,
+are all interesting. It is seldom that a hereditary prince, ventures to
+stand forth in the cause of freedom or independence; and a son of the
+house of Braganza, and a daughter of that of Austria, leading the way to
+the independence of this great empire, cannot but excite the love as
+well as the admiration of their fortunate subjects.
+
+The weather cleared up in the afternoon, and I went ashore to see if I
+could find any of my old friends, or hear any news; but all the English
+were gone to their country-houses, and the opera, the proper place for
+gossip, is shut, because it is Lent; so I returned to the brig, and
+found Lord Cochrane ready to go ashore to wait on the Emperor, who had
+come in from San Cristovaŏ to meet him at the palace in town. His
+Lordship and Captain Crosbie, who went with him, did not return till
+late, but then well pleased with their reception.
+
+_March 14th_.--Another day of such heavy rain, that I have no chance of
+landing my invalid. Mr. May came on board, and told me I might have Sir
+T. Hardy's house for a few days, till I can get one for myself. He also
+gives us good accounts of the government, its finances, &c.
+
+An embargo has been laid on all vessels to-day, to prevent the news of
+Lord Cochrane's arrival from reaching Bahia.
+
+_15th_.--I went early ashore to prepare for leaving the brig. I observed
+two of the arches, under which the Emperor had passed on the day of
+coronation, designed in extremely good taste, and well executed. They
+are of course only temporary. Some more solid works have been executed,
+since I last saw Rio; new fountains opened, aqueducts repaired, all the
+forts and other public works visibly improved, and the streets new
+paved. There is besides every where an air of business, I carried
+Glennie ashore in the afternoon, and was foolish enough to feel very
+sorry to leave my fellow-passengers, and still more foolish to be vexed
+at the perfect indifference with which they saw me go: both perhaps
+natural enough. I, am once more without any one to lean to, and alone in
+the world with my melancholy charge; they, have business and pleasure
+before them.
+
+It was a fine evening, and the little voyage in the boat to Botafogo
+seemed to do Glennie good; but we had the mortification to find that
+neither the provisions I had bought in the town had arrived, nor the
+servant one of my friends had promised to procure me. So we were alone
+and supperless,--but, thank God, not helpless. I have learned so much in
+my wanderings as not to be dependent; and so, after a time, I had from
+the huckster’s shop in the neighbourhood a tolerable tea to give my
+invalid, and sent him to bed in pretty good spirits, and took time
+afterwards to be pretty miserable myself.
+
+_March 20th_.--These past days I have employed in looking about for a
+house, and have succeeded, in receiving and returning the visits of my
+old acquaintance, and in being very unwell.
+
+I hear there is nothing yet settled about Lord Cochrane’s command. The
+world says that he was asked to serve under two Portuguese admirals and
+for Portuguese pay. Of course, these are terms he could never accept. I
+have not seen him, so am not sure about this. I suppose, however, it is
+true; or he would not still be living on board that dirty little brig in
+which we arrived.
+
+_21st_.--Whatever difficulties were in the way of Lord Cochrane’s
+command, they are over. I have a note from him announcing that he hoists
+his flag at four o’clock this afternoon, on board the Pedro
+Primeiro.[102]
+
+[Note 102: Much was said among the English as well as Brazilians of
+His Lordship’s high terms. I have reason to think (not from his
+information) that his pay and that of the English officers is only equal
+to that of England, rank for rank.]
+
+_22d_.--Captain Bourchier of His Majesty’s ship Beaver kindly lent me
+his boat to-day, to convey me with my cousin and my goods to my
+cottage on the Gloria hill, close to Mr. May's, and not very far from
+the house the government has given as a temporary residence to Lord
+Cochrane. It is pleasant to me on many accounts: it is cool, and there
+is a shady walk for the sick. It is almost surrounded by the sea, which
+breaks against the wall; and not being near any road, we shall be
+perfectly quiet here.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+_Friday, 28th_.--This has been a busy week, both to me and to my
+friends, who are hurrying every thing to get to sea as quickly as
+possible; as it is of the utmost consequence to free Bahia of the enemy.
+
+_Saturday, 29th_.--His Majesty's ship Tartar, Captain Brown, arrived
+to-day from England, bringing no good news of any kind. In the first
+place, Lord Cochrane suffers extreme distress on learning that Lady
+Cochrane and her infant daughter are on their way to Chile, so that they
+will have to perform the rough passage round Cape Horn twice before he
+sees them;--and in the next, Captain Brown gives a most formidable
+account of a Portuguese fleet bound for Bahia, which he met on this side
+of the line. I trust he is mistaken in the last, and I try to comfort
+Lord Cochrane as to the first piece of intelligence, by suggestions, of
+the probability, if not certainty, that the ship Lady Cochrane will sail
+in, must touch in this port; however, his natural anxiety is not to be
+overcome.
+
+_Monday, March 31st_.--Yesterday the Pedro Primeiro dropped down the
+harbour, as far as Boa Viage, and to-day I went with Lord Cochrane on
+board of her. We found that the Emperor and Empress had been on board at
+daylight. On some of the Portuguese officers complaining that the
+English sailors had been drunk the day before, the Empress said, "Oh,
+'tis the custom of the North, where brave men come from. The sailors are
+under my protection; I spread my mantle over them." The Pedro Primeiro
+is a fine two-decker, without a poop. She has a most beautiful gun-deck;
+but I could not see her to advantage, as she was still taking in stores,
+and receiving men. Her cabins are beautifully fitted up with handsome
+wood and green morocco cushions, &c.; and I am told the Emperor takes
+great pride in her. Captain Crosbie commands her; and three lieutenants
+who came with us from Chile are appointed to her.
+
+_April 1st_.--I had expected the Admiral to breakfast with me; but, to
+my great disappointment, I saw the ship get under weigh, and sail. I
+afterwards learned that the Emperor and Empress were on board, and
+accompanied him out of the harbour as far as the light-house, so that he
+could not leave them. The morning was dull and grey when the Pedro
+Primeiro, the Maria da Gloria, the Unaŏ, and the Liberal got under
+weigh; but just as the little squadron came abreast of Santa Cruz, and
+the fort began to salute, the sun broke from behind a cloud, and a
+bright yellow flood of light descended behind the ships to the sea,
+where they seemed to swim in a sea of glory; and that was the last sight
+I had of my kind friend.
+
+_10th_.--Nothing of any note or variety has taken place during these ten
+days. Glennie is gaining ground: I write and read, and attend to him.
+The Nitherohy sails to-morrow to join Lord Cochrane off Bahia, with
+three mortars on board, two 10, and one 13-inch. I find, with surprise,
+that the cartridges are still made up here in canvass, not flannel; and
+I fear that the ships are not so well found as I wish them: great part
+of the canvass and cordage have been seventeen years in store, and, I
+should fear, partly rotten. But all this is nothing to the evil
+attending the having Portuguese among the crews. 'Tis not natural they
+should fight against their countrymen.
+
+I have had the pleasure of reading Peveril of the Peak within these few
+days. 'Tis a sort of historical portrait, like Kenilworth, where the
+Duke of Buckingham, he who
+
+      "In one revolving moon
+    Was hero, fiddler, statesman, and buffoon,"
+
+is the principal figure: Charles II. and the rest of the court serve for
+the black boy and parrot in costume; while the story of Peveril is
+nothing more than the carved-work frieze of the very pleasant apartment
+he has been placed in.
+
+_14th_.--The Fly sloop of war, and the packet from England, came in and
+brought the news of the war between France and Spain. This news is, of
+course, interesting here, as Portugal is considered to be implicated in
+the disputes in Europe; and then, the part England may take, and how
+that may affect this country, is a subject of anxious speculation. The
+more domestic news is not quite agreeable. The Imperial General Lecor,
+in the south, has suffered some loss in an action with the Portuguese:
+however, it is not considerable enough to give any serious uneasiness.
+The same vessel that brought the news from Lecor, also gives
+intelligence that the head of the Buenos Ayrian government, Rodriguez,
+having taken the field against some Indian tribes, who have lately
+committed great ravages in his territories, an attempt was made by one
+of the ex-chiefs to subvert his government; happily, without success. I
+say happily, because I am convinced that every week and month passed
+without change, is of infinite consequence both to the present and
+future wellbeing of the Spanish colonies. While they had still to
+struggle for their independence, while they had to amend the abuses of
+their old government, frequent changes were unavoidable, but natural;
+but now that they are independent, and that they have constitutions,
+which, if not perfect, contain the principles of freedom and greatness,
+those principles should have time and peace to grow, and to suit
+themselves to the genius of the people.
+
+_15th_.--Glennie has been gaining so much strength lately, that he has
+determined on joining the Commodore at Bahia; and this day he left me,
+to sail in His Majesty's ship Beaver.
+
+After having had him to attend to for six months, and being used to
+constant intercourse with an intelligent inmate, I feel so very lonely,
+that I believe I must leave off some of my sedentary habits, and visit a
+little among my neighbours.
+
+_25th_.--A French brig of war came in to-day from Bahia. We learn that
+the ships seen by the Tartar were only a frigate, with a convoy of
+transports, on board of which was a reinforcement for Madeira of 1500
+men. They will but increase the distress of the garrison, which is
+represented as very great, as they have brought no provisions.
+
+_28th_.--I spent the day with Miss Hayne, and accompanied her in the
+evening to compliment Dona Ana, the wife of Senhor Luis Jose de Carvalho
+e Mello, on her birth-day. The family were at their country-house at
+Botafogo; and a most excellent house it is, very handsomely built and
+richly furnished. The walls are decorated with French papers in
+compartments, with gold mouldings, and every thing corresponds. But the
+best decoration, was this night, the presence of a number of the
+handsomest women I have seen in Brazil, most of them sisters, or
+cousins, or nieces of the lady of the house, whose mother, the Baronesa
+de Campos, may boast of one of the finest families in the world. The
+daughter of the house, Dona Carlota, is distinguished here by talent and
+cultivation beyond her fellows. She speaks and writes French well, and
+has made no small progress in English. She knows the literature of her
+own country, draws correctly, sings with taste, and dances gracefully.
+Several of her cousins and aunts speak French fluently; so that I had
+the pleasure of conversing freely with them, and received a good deal of
+information on subjects that only women attend to. Soon after all the
+company was assembled, the ladies sitting all together in a formal
+circle, the gentlemen walking about generally in other rooms, the
+ceremony of tea-drinking commenced, and was conducted pretty much as in
+England; the servants handing round tea, coffee, and cakes, on broad
+silver salvers. But we all sat and took our refreshments at leisure,
+instead of standing with cups in our hands, and elbowing our way through
+crowds of persons, who all look as if they were bound on some particular
+business, and could scarcely afford time to recognise their passing
+acquaintance. We then adjourned to the music-room, where the
+music-master[103] attended to accompany the ladies, many of whom sang
+extremely well; but when it came to Dona Rosa's turn, I was ready to
+exclaim with Comus--
+
+    "Can any mortal mixture of earth's mould
+    Breathe such divine enchanting ravishment?"
+
+[Note 103: This man is brother to the instructor of Catalani.]
+
+The music ended, and who was not sorry at its conclusion? the dancing
+commenced, and then those who like myself were not dancers sat by to
+gossip. An Englishman who has been in this country many years, seeing me
+full of admiration of the beautiful and gay creatures before me, began
+to give me such a picture of the private morals in Brazil, as was
+beginning to darken their countenances and to dim their eyes, when
+luckily he went a step too far, and offered to wager, (the true English
+way of affirming,) that there were in that room not less than ten
+ladies, each provided with her note to slip into the hand of her
+gallant, and that the married and unmarried were alike; and referred me
+to my friend M----, who has long been here, and knows the people well.
+He looked slowly round the room, and I began to fear,--but he said, "No,
+not here; though I do not deny that such things are done in Rio. But,
+Mrs. G., do not you know, as well as I, that in all great cities, in
+your country and in mine as well as in this, a certain portion of every
+class of society is less moral than the rest? In some countries
+immorality is more refined indeed; and when manners lose their
+grossness, they are stripped apparently of half their vice. But suppose
+the fact, that women, even the unmarried, are less pure here than in
+Europe, remember that with us, besides the mother, there is the nurse of
+the family, or the governess, or even the waiting-maid of every young
+woman, who is supposed to be well brought up, and of good character and
+morals. These are all checks on conduct, and form a guardianship only
+inferior to a mother's. But here the servants are slaves; therefore
+naturally the enemies of their masters, and ready and willing to deceive
+them, by assisting in the corruption of their families." Here then is
+another curse of slavery; and this view of the subject has opened my
+eyes on many points, on which I have hitherto been wondering ignorantly.
+
+There were several very pleasant French naval officers here to-night,
+and a few, very few English. I conversed with some sensible and
+well-bred Brazilians, so that I was scarcely aware of the lateness of
+the hour, when I left my younger friends dancing at midnight.
+
+While at the ball, the tragic story of two lovely girls was told me.
+When mere children, they had accompanied their mother to some gala, and
+on returning at night, just as the mother advanced from the carriage,
+she was shot from the veranda of her own house. All search for the
+murderer was vain: but conjecture points to two possible causes of the
+crime. One, the jealousy of a woman, who it seems had been injured, and
+who hoped to succeed her rival as the wife of the man she loved; but he
+has not married again. Another conjecture is, that she was acquainted
+with some political secrets, and that fear caused her death. However it
+was, the girls have ever since lived with their grandmother, who cannot
+sleep if they are not both in the room with her. The family attachments
+here are quite beautiful; they are as close and as intimate as those of
+clanship in Scotland: but they have their inconveniences, in the
+constant intermarriages between near relations, as uncles with their
+nieces, aunts with their nephews, &c.; so that marriages, instead of
+widening connections, diffusing property, and producing more general
+relations in the country, seems to narrow all these, to hoard wealth,
+and to withdraw all the affections into too close and selfish a circle.
+
+_30th_.--I went early to town, and found that the English packet had
+arrived. She fell in with Lord Cochrane's squadron near Bahia, so that
+His Lordship must be there long ere this time; she brings reports that
+the royalist party are becoming too strong for the Cortes at Lisbon.
+
+I spent the day with Madame do Rio Seco. Her house is really a
+magnificent one; it has its ball-room, and its music-room, its grotto
+and fountains, besides extremely handsome apartments of every kind, both
+for family and public use, with rather more china and French clocks than
+we should think of displaying, but which do not assort ill with the
+silken hangings and gilt mouldings of the rooms.
+
+The dinner was small, as we were only three persons, but excellently
+dressed. Soup of wild-fowl, a variety of small birds, and sweetmeats of
+the country, were rarities to me: the rest of the dinner might have been
+English or French; it was served in plate. I heard a great many
+anecdotes to-day of a great many persons of all degrees, for which M.
+Dutems would have given any price to enrich the _souvenirs_ of the
+_voyageur qui se repose_ withal, but which I will not write, because I
+think it neither honest nor womanly to take the protection of the laws
+and the feelings of a foreign country, and--record the foibles of its
+inhabitants so as to give others the opportunity of laughing at them. We
+know well enough the weak parts of human nature: if they are treated
+tenderly, they may mend. Vice indeed may require the lash, but weakness
+and folly should meet with indulgence. In a society rising like this, I
+am persuaded that men may be flattered into virtue. If a general calls
+his soldiers brave before the battle, it becomes a point of honour to
+prove so. And were it in my power, I had rather persuade the Brazilians
+that they have every virtue under heaven, than make them so familiar
+with the least of their failings, as to lose the shame of it.
+
+_May 1st_.--I have this day seen the Val Longo; it is the slave-market
+of Rio. Almost every house in this very long street is a depôt for
+slaves. On passing by the doors this evening, I saw in most of them long
+benches placed near the walls, on which rows of young creatures were
+sitting, their heads shaved, their bodies emaciated, and the marks of
+recent itch upon their skins. In some places the poor creatures were
+lying on mats, evidently too sick to sit up. At one house the half-doors
+were shut, and a group of boys and girls, apparently not above fifteen
+years old, and some much under, were leaning over the hatches, and
+gazing into the street with wondering faces. They were evidently quite
+new negroes. As I approached them, it appears that something about me
+attracted their attention; they touched one another, to be sure that all
+saw me, and then chattered in their own African dialect with great
+eagerness. I went and stood near them, and though certainly more
+disposed to weep, I forced myself to smile to them, and look cheerfully,
+and kissed my hand to them, with all which they seemed delighted, and
+jumped about and danced, as if returning my civilities. Poor things! I
+would not, if I could, shorten their moments of glee, by awakening them
+to a sense of the sad things of slavery; but, if I could, I would appeal
+to their masters, to those who buy, and to those who sell, and implore
+them to think of the evils slavery brings, not only to the negroes but
+to themselves, not only to themselves but to their families and their
+posterity.
+
+After all, slaves are the worst and most expensive servants; and one
+proof of it is this, I think. The small patch that each is allowed to
+cultivate for his own use on many estates generally yields at least
+twice as much in proportion as the land of the master, though fewer
+hours of labour are bestowed upon it.[104] I have hitherto endeavoured,
+without success, to procure a correct statement of the number of slaves
+imported into all Brazil. I fear, indeed, it will be hardly possible for
+me to do so, on account of the distance of some of the ports; but I will
+not rest till I procure at least a statement of the number entered at
+the custom-house here during the last two years. The number of ships
+from Africa that I see constantly entering the harbour, and the
+multitudes that throng the slave-houses in this street, convince me that
+the importation must be very great. The ordinary proportion of deaths on
+the passage is, I am told, about one in five.
+
+[Note 104: Since I returned to England, I have seen the account of
+the proceedings of Joshua Steele in Barbadoes. I need not add one word
+on this part of the subject; but I present the reader with the two
+following statements of custom-house entries at Rio for the years 1821
+and 1822.
+
+1821.
+
+   _January_        |    _April_        |  _October_     |
+Muzambique  483     | Angola     430    | Angola    452  |
+Muzambique  337     | Quilumana  280    | Angola    375  |
+Amhuebe     352     | Cabinda    287    | Benguela  510  |
+Cabinda     348     | Cabinda    451    |          ----  |
+Luanda      549     |           ----    |          1337  |
+Benuela     396     |           1448    |          ----  |
+           ----     |           ----    |                |
+           2914     |                   |                |
+                    |      _May_        |    _November_  |
+           ----     |                   |                |
+   _February_       | Angola  342       | Ambuiz  220    |
+Cabinda     193     | Angola  361       | Benguela 390   | ABSTRACT
+Cabinda     342     | Angola  231       | Angola  579    | OF 1821
+Cabinda     514     | Quilumana  225    | Angola  544    | January   2914
+Muzambique  277     | Muzambique  122   | Angola  388    | February  1926
+Muzambique  600     |         ----      | Quilumana 446  | March     3170
+          ----      |         1281      |       ----     | April     1448
+          1926      |         ----      |       2567     | May       1281
+          ----      |      _June_       |       ----     | June       680
+      _March_       | Angola   680      |                | August    2578
+Quilumana   311     |                   |    _December_  | September  685
+Quilumana   385     |      _August_     | Angola   516   | October   1337
+Quilumana   342     | Luanda    514     | Angola   523   | November  2567
+Quilumana   257     | Luanda    460     | Angola   309   | December  2634
+Quilumana   260     | Luanda    734     | Muzambique 394 |          -----
+Quilumana   291     | Luanda    304     | Muzambique 330 |         21,199
+Quilumana   287     | Luanda    227     | Cabinda  562   |         ------
+Angola      345     | Benguela  339     |          ----  |
+Angola      433     |       ----        |          2634  |
+Angola      259     |       2578        |          ----  |
+           ----     |       ----        |                |
+           3170     |                   |                |
+           ----     |     _September_   |                |
+                    | Angola    685     |                |
+
+                         1822
+   _January_     |     _April_      |  _September_    |
+ Cabinda    744  | Quilumana  323   | Angola    572   |
+ Cabinda    417  | Quilumana  203   | Angola    534   |
+ Cabinda    459  | Angola     519   | Cabinda   466   |
+ Cabinda    144  | Angola     418   | Benguela  524   |
+ Muzambique 305  | Cabinda    291   | Benguela  298   |
+ Muzambique 278  | Cabinda    377   |          ----   |
+           ----  |           ----   |          2394   |
+           2347  |           2181   |          ----   |
+           ----  |           ----   |                 |
+
+   _February_    |     _May_        |    _October_    |
+Muzambique  421  | Angola     398   | Luanda    467   |
+Muzambique  419  | Benguela   388   | Benguela  428   |
+Muzambique  399  |           ----   | Cabinda   434   | ABSTRACT OF 1822.
+Muzambique  520  |            786   | Cabinda   337   |
+Angola      406  |           ----   |          ----   | January    2347
+Angola      400  |                  |          1666   | February   4273
+Angola      406  |     _June_       |          ----   | March      4401
+Quilumana   436  | Cabinda    432   |                 | April      2131
+Quilumana   446  | Cabinda    533   |   _November_    | May         786
+Benguela    420  | Angola     302   | Cabinda   417   | June       2418
+           ----  | Angola     761   | Cabinda   499   | July       1118
+           4273  | Benguela   390   | Luanda    561   | September  2394
+           ----  |           ----   | Benguela  425   | October    1666
+                 |          2418    |          ----   | November   1902
+    _March_      |          ----    |          1902   | December   1498
+Cabinda    667   |                  |                 |          ------
+Cabinda    400   |      _July_      |   _December_    |          24,934
+Quilumana  504   | Cabinda    427   | Luanda    514   |          ------
+Quilumana  487   | Angola     691   | Cabinda   534   |
+Quilumana  406   |           ----   | Quilumana 450   |
+Muzambique 452   |           1118   |          ----   |
+Muzambique 455   |           ----   |          1498   |
+Angola     305   |                  |          ----   |
+Angola     354   |                  |                 |
+Angola     371   |                  |                 |
+          ----   |                  |                 |
+          4401   |                  |                 |
+          ----   |                  |                 |
+
+]
+
+_May 3d_.--Early this morning the French naval captain, La Susse, called
+on me to take me in his boat to town, for the purpose of going to Senhor
+Luis Jose's house in the Rua do Ouvidor, to see the Emperor go in state
+to the opening of the Constituent and Legislative Assembly. All the
+great officers of state, all the gentlemen of the household, most of the
+nobility, and several regiments accompanied him. First marched the
+soldiers, then the carriages of the nobility and other persons having
+the entree, nobody driving more than a pair, such being the express
+order of the Emperor, in order that the rich might not mortify the poor;
+then the royal carriages, containing the household, the ladies of
+honour, and the young Princess Dona Maria da Gloria; the Emperor and
+Empress followed in a state-coach with eight mules. The crown was on the
+front seat. The Emperor wore the great cape of state, of yellow
+feathers, over his green robes. The Empress, much wrapped up on account
+of a recent indisposition, was seated by him, and the procession was
+closed by more troops.
+
+The carriages displayed to-day would form a curious collection for a
+museum in London or Paris. Some were the indescribable sort of caleche
+used here; and in the middle of these was a very gay pea-green and
+silver chariot, evidently built in Europe, very light, with silver
+ornaments, silver fellies to the wheels, silver where any kind of metal
+could be used, and beautiful embossed silver plates on the harness of
+the mules. Many other gala carriages seemed as if they had been built in
+the age of Louis XIV. Such things! mounted on horizontal leathern bands,
+and all other kind of savage hangings; besides paint and gilding, and,
+by-the-bye, some very handsome silver and silver gilt harnesses. Then
+there were splendid liveries, and all manner of gaudiness, not without
+some taste.
+
+The houses were hung with all the damask and satin of every colour that
+they could supply; and the balconies stored with ladies, whose bright
+eyes rain influence, dressed in gala dresses, with feathers and diamonds
+in profusion; and as the royal carriages passed, we waved our
+handkerchiefs, and scattered flowers on their heads.
+
+When the procession had passed, I found it was expected that we should
+await its return, which I was well pleased to do. My young friend Dona
+Carlota improves on acquaintance; and as I begin to venture to speak
+Portuguese, I am becoming intimate with the elder part of the family. I
+was taken into the study, and for the first time saw a Brazilian private
+gentleman's library. As he is a judge, of course the greater part is
+law; but there are history and general literature, chiefly French, and
+some English books. I was introduced to several Portuguese authors; and
+Don Carlota, who reads remarkably well, did me the favour to read some
+of Diniz's fine verses to me, and to lend me his works. We then returned
+to our station at the window, and saw the procession return in the order
+in which it came, when our pleasant party dispersed.
+
+Yesterday, the assembly having finished its preliminary sittings, sent a
+deputation, headed by Jose Bonifacio, to His Imperial Majesty, to
+entreat that he would honour the assembly with his presence at their
+first sitting as a legislative body, and he was pleased to name half
+past eleven o'clock to-day for that purpose.[105]
+
+[Note 105: Various ordinances of the 3d and 19th June and the 3d of
+August, 1822, and of the 20th and 22d February, 1823, had been published
+for the assembling or regulating the election of deputies from the
+provinces of Brazil, to form a constituent assembly. Early in April,
+1823, the greater number of those who could be collected in the present
+state of the country had arrived in the capital. On the 14th of that
+month, the Emperor fixed their first meeting for the 17th. Accordingly
+on the 17th of April, 1823, the deputies, in number 52, entered their
+house of assembly at nine o'clock in the morning, and proceeded to elect
+a temporary president and secretary, when the Right Reverend Don Jose
+Caetano da Silva Coutinho, bishop and grand chaplain, was elected
+president, and Manoel Jose de Sousa França secretary.
+
+The first act was to name two committees; one of five members, to hold a
+scrutiny on the election of the deputies generally; and the other of
+three, to examine those of the five. This necessary business, and some
+consequent discussion, occupied the whole of the first and greater part
+of the second session; towards the end of the latter, the form of the
+oath to be administered to the members, was decided:--
+
+"I swear to fulfil, faithfully and truly, the obligations of deputy to
+the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly of Brazil, convoked in
+order to frame a political constitution for the empire of Brazil, and to
+make indispensable and urgent reforms. Maintaining always the Roman
+Catholic and Apostolic religion, and the integrity and independence of
+the empire; without admitting any other nation whatever to any bond of
+union or federation which might oppose that independence. Maintaining
+also the constitutional empire, and the dynasty of the Lord Don Peter,
+our first Emperor, and his issue."
+
+The third session was occupied in regulating the forms of the assembly.
+The throne to be placed at one end of the hall; on the first step on the
+right-hand side, the President shall have his chair when the Emperor
+presides, otherwise the chair to be in front of the throne, with a small
+table, separate from the table of the members, and on it the Gospel, a
+copy of the constitution, and a list of the members. When the Emperor
+opens the assembly, his great officers may accompany him, and the
+ministers may sit on his right; proper places are appointed for
+ambassadors, and a gallery is open to strangers. Some other forms as to
+the reception of the Emperor, or a regent, or a minister commissioned by
+him, were also settled; and then the 1st of May was fixed on for the
+whole body of the members to go to the chapel royal, and after hearing
+the mass of the Holy Ghost, to take their oaths. The 2d was appointed
+for a deputation to wait on the Emperor, and inform him that they were
+ready to proceed on the 3d, and with his assistance to open the
+important business on which they had met.]
+
+This morning, therefore, the people of Rio de Janeiro had strewed the
+way with evergreens, sweet herbs, and flowers, from the bridge without
+the town by the street of St. Peter's, the Campo de Santa Anna, now
+Praça da Acclamaçaŏ, the Theatre Square, and the streets Do Ouvidor and
+Direita to the palace; troops lined the whole space; the houses were
+decorated, and the bands of the different regiments relieved each other
+as their Imperial Majesties passed. I observe the Brazilians never say
+_the_ Emperor, but _our_ Emperor, _our_ Empress; and seldom name either,
+without some epithet of affection.
+
+In the House of Assembly, a throne had been prepared for the Emperor,
+and on his right hand a tribune for the Empress, the Princess, and their
+ladies. As soon as it was known that the Imperial party had arrived, a
+deputation from the assembly went to the door of the house to meet them,
+and conducted the Emperor, with his crown[106] on his head, to the
+throne; the Empress, Princess, and ladies, being at the same time placed
+in the tribune.
+
+[Note 106: The crown is of a purple velvet, enriched with diamonds.
+There was some mistake or misunderstanding about the fact of wearing the
+crown at the opening of the assembly. As the crown is only a ceremonial
+badge of dignity, it should have been worn during the ceremony; but
+owing to the mistake alluded to, it was not.]
+
+The Emperor having deposited the crown and sceptre with the proper
+officer, and received the oaths of several of the deputies, spoke as
+follows; and it was remarked, that so far from the speech having the air
+of a thing read from a paper or studied, that it was spoken as freely as
+if it was the spontaneous effusion of the moment, and excited a feeling
+as free in his favour.
+
+"This is the greatest day that Brazil has ever seen; a day on which, for
+the first time, it may show that it is an empire, and a free empire. How
+great is my delight, to behold real representatives from almost every
+one of its provinces, consulting together on its true interests, and on
+these founding a just and liberal constitution to govern them! We ought
+long since to have enjoyed a national representation. But either the
+nation did not in time perceive its real interests, or, perceiving them,
+was unable to declare them, on account of the forces and ascendancy of
+the Portuguese party; which, perceiving clearly to what a degree of
+weakness, littleness, and poverty, Portugal was reduced, and to how low
+a state it had fallen, would never consent (notwithstanding their
+proclamation of liberty, fearing a separation,) that the people of
+Brazil should enjoy a representation equal to what they themselves then
+possessed. They had miscalculated their plans for conquest, and from
+that miscalculation arises our good fortune.
+
+"Brazil, which for upwards of three hundred years had borne the
+degrading name of a colony, and had suffered all the evils arising from
+the destructive system then pursued, exulted with pleasure when my Lord
+Don John VI., King of Portugal and Algarve, my august father, raised it
+to the dignity of a kingdom, by his decree of the 16th of December,
+1815; but Portugal burned with rage, and trembled with fear. The delight
+which the inhabitants of this vast continent displayed on the occasion
+was unbounded; but the politic measure was not followed up, as it ought
+to have been, by another, that is, by the convocation of an assembly to
+organise the new kingdom.
+
+"Brazil, always frank in her mode of proceeding, and mortified at having
+borne the yoke of iron so long, both before and after that measure
+echoed the cry for the constitution of Portugal, immediately on the
+proclamation of liberty in Portugal; expecting that after this proof of
+confidence given to her pseudo brethren, they would assist her to
+deliver herself from the vipers that were consuming her entrails, and
+little thinking she should be deceived.
+
+"The Brazilians, who truly loved their country, never intended, however,
+to subject themselves to a constitution in which all had not a voice,
+and whose views were to convert them at once from free men into vile
+slaves. Nevertheless, the obstacles which, before the 26th April, 1821,
+opposed the liberties of Brazil, and which continued to exist, being
+maintained by the European troops, caused the people, fearing that they
+should never enjoy a representative assembly of their own, even for the
+very love of liberty, to follow the infamous Cortes of Portugal, and
+they even made the sacrifice of submitting to be insulted by the
+demagogue party which predominated in this hemisphere.
+
+"Even this availed not. We were so oppressed by the European forces,
+that I was obliged to send them to the opposite shore of the Rio; to
+blockade them; to force them to embark and pass the bar, in order to
+save the honour of Brazil, and to procure that liberty which we desire
+and ought to enjoy; but in vain shall we labour to procure it, if we
+permit to exist among us a party inimical to our true cause.
+
+"Scarcely were we well free from these enemies, when in a few days
+arrived another expedition, which Lisbon had sent for our protection;
+but I took upon myself to protect this empire, and I refused to receive
+it. Pernambuco did the same. And Bahia, which was the first place to
+unite with Portugal, as a reward for her good faith, and because she
+perceived too late the track she ought to have followed, now suffers
+under a cruel war for those Vandals; and her chief city, occupied only
+by them, is on the point of being rased, for they cannot maintain
+themselves there.
+
+"Such is the freedom Portugal sought to bestow on Brazil: it was to be
+converted into slavery for us; and would have ruined us totally if we
+had continued to execute her commands; which we must have done, but for
+the heroic remonstrances conveyed by petitions, first from the junta of
+government of St. Paul's, then from the camara of this capital, and
+afterwards from all the other juntas of government and camaras,
+imploring me to remain here. It appeared to me that Brazil would be
+ruined, if I did not attend to the petitions; and I did attend to them.
+I know that this was my duty, though at the risk of my life; but as it
+was in defence of this empire, it was ready, as it is now, and ever,
+when it shall be requisite.
+
+"I had scarcely pronounced the words, _As it is for the good of all, and
+the general happiness of the nation, tell the people that I remain_,
+recommending to them at the same time _union_ and _tranquillity_, when I
+began to take measures to put ourselves in a state to meet the attacks
+of our enemies, then concealed, since unmasked; one part among
+ourselves, the rest in the Portuguese democratic Cortes; providing for
+all the departments, especially those of the treasury and foreign
+affairs, by such means as prudence dictated, and which I shall not
+mention here, because they will be laid before you in proper time by the
+different officers of state.
+
+"The public treasury was in the very worst state, as the receipts had
+been much reduced; and, principally, because till within four or five
+months they had been solely those of this province. On this account it
+was not possible to raise money for all that was necessary, as we had
+already too little to pay the public creditors, or those employed in
+effective service, and to maintain my household, which cost one-fourth
+of that of the King, my august father. His disbursements exceeded four
+millions; mine did not amount to one. But although the diminution was so
+considerable, I could not be satisfied when I found that my expenses
+were so disproportioned to the reduced receipts of the treasury; and
+therefore I resolved to live as a private man, receiving only 110,000
+milrees for the whole expenses of my household, excepting the allowance
+of the Empress, my much-beloved and valued wife, which was assigned to
+her by her marriage contract.
+
+"Not satisfied with these small savings in my household with which I
+commenced, I examined into every department, as was my duty, in order to
+regulate its expenditure, and to check its abuses. Yet, still the
+revenue did not suffice; but by changing some individuals not well
+affected to the cause of the empire, but only to that of the infamous
+Portuguese party, and who were continually betraying us, for others who
+loved Brazil with all their hearts,--some from birth and principle,
+others from the intimate conviction that the cause is that of reason,--I
+have caused, and I say it with pride, the bank, which was on the point
+of losing its credit, and threatened bankruptcy every moment,--as on the
+day of the departure of my august father, Don John VI., there only
+remained the sum of two hundred contos in money,--to discount its bills,
+to re-establish its credit so completely, that no one can imagine that
+it can ever fall again into the wretched state to which it had been
+reduced. The public treasury, which, on account of the extraordinary
+expenses which should have been borne in common by all the provinces,
+but which fell solely upon this, was totally exhausted, and without
+credit, has gained such credit, that it is already known in Europe; and
+so much cash, that the greater part of the creditors, and they were not
+few, or for trifling sums, have been so far satisfied, as that their
+houses have not suffered; that the public servants have no arrears due
+any more than the military on actual service; that the other provinces
+that have adhered to the holy cause,--not by force, but from conviction,
+for I love just liberty,--have been furnished for their defence with
+warlike stores, great part of which are newly purchased, besides those
+already in the arsenals; and, moreover, they have been assisted with
+money, because their funds did not cover their necessary expenses.
+
+"In a word, the province now yields from eleven to twelve millions; its
+produce, before the departure of my august father, having been at most
+from six to seven.
+
+"Among the extraordinary expenses are, the freights of the ships on
+board of which the different expeditions sent back to Lisbon were
+embarked; the purchase of several vessels; the repair of others; pay to
+civil and military officers who have arrived here on service, and to
+those expelled from the provinces for their private sufferings in the
+tumults there raised.
+
+"The expenditure has certainly been great: but hitherto, nevertheless,
+there remain untouched, the gratuitous contributions; the sequestrated
+property of the absentees on account of political opinions; the loan of
+400,000 milrees for the purchase of ships of war indispensably necessary
+for the defence of the empire, and which exists entire; and the
+exchequer of the administration of diamonds.
+
+"In every department there was an urgent necessity for reform; but in
+this of finance still more, because it is the chief spring of the state.
+
+"The army had neither arms, men, nor discipline: with regard to arms, it
+is now perfectly ready; the men are increasing daily in proportion to
+the population; and in discipline it will soon be perfect, being already
+in obedience exemplary. I have twice sent assistance to Bahia: first 240
+men, then 735, forming a battalion called the Emperor's Battalion; which
+in eight days was chosen, prepared, and sailed.
+
+"Besides these, a foreign regiment has been raised, and a battalion of
+artillery of freed men, which will shortly be completed.
+
+"In the military arsenal they have wrought diligently to prepare every
+thing necessary for the defence of the different provinces; and all,
+_from Paraiba of the North to Montevideo_, have received the assistance
+they have requested.
+
+"The walls of the fortifications of this city were totally ruined: they
+are now repaired; and important works necessary in the arsenal itself
+have been finished.
+
+"As to military works, the walls of all the fortresses have been
+repaired, and some entirely new-constructed. These are formed in the
+different points fittest to oppose any enemy's force approaching by sea;
+and in the defiles of the hills, to oppose the approach of an enemy
+already landed, (which would not be easy,) entrenchments, forts,
+redoubts, abatis, and batteries. The barracks of the Carioca are built,
+and the other barracks are prepared. That in the Praça da Acclamaçaŏ is
+almost finished, and that ordered for the grenadiers will shortly be
+so.
+
+"The fleet consisted only of the frigate Piranga, then called the Union,
+not fitted; the corvette Liberal, only a hull; and of a few other small
+and insignificant vessels. Now we have the ship of the line, Pedro
+Primeiro; the frigates Piranga, Carolina, and Netherohy; the corvettes
+Maria da Gloria and Liberal, ready; a corvette, in Alagoas, which will
+soon be ready, named the Massaió: of the brigs of war, Guarani ready,
+and the Cacique and Caboclo under repair; besides several ships in
+ordinary, and various schooners.
+
+"I expect six frigates of fifty guns, manned and armed, and completely
+formed for action, for the purchase of which I have already given
+orders; and according to the information I have received, they will not
+cost above thirteen contos of rees.
+
+"In the dock-yard, the works are the following:--all the ships now
+actually employed have been repaired; gun-boats, and others of small
+size, which I need not name, have been built; and many others, which,
+altogether, are numerous and important.
+
+"I intend this year, in the same place, where for thirteen years back
+nothing has been done but caulking, rigging, and careening
+vessels,--swallowing immense sums, which might have been more usefully
+employed for the nation,--to lay down the keel of a forty-gun frigate;
+which, if the calculation I have made, the orders I have given, and the
+measures I have taken do not fail, I hope will be finished this year, or
+in the middle of the next, and will be called the _Campista_.
+
+"As to public works, much has been done. The police office in the Praça
+da Acclamaçaŏ has been rebuilt: that large square has been drained of
+the marsh water, and has become an agreeable walk, with paved paths on
+all sides, and others across, and we are still continuing to embellish
+it. The greater part of the aqueduct of Carioca and Maracanaŏ, have been
+repaired; besides the numerous bridges of wood and stone which have been
+renewed, several new ones have been made, and a great extent of roads
+has been mended.
+
+"Besides what I have mentioned, and much more which I have not touched
+on, the funds for these works, which in April, 1821, owed 60 contos of
+rees, now is not only out of debt, but possesses upwards of 600,000
+crusadoes.
+
+"In different departments we have made the following progress. We have
+greatly increased the national typography; the public gardens have been
+put in order; the museum repaired, and enriched with minerals and a
+gallery of good pictures,--some of which were purchased, some were
+already in the public treasury, and others were my private property,
+which I have ordered to be placed there.
+
+"Every exertion has been made on the Caes da Praça de Commercio, so that
+it is nearly finished; the streets of the city have been new-paved; and
+in a very short time this house for the assembly, with all the rest
+adjoining, were properly fitted for their purpose.
+
+"Many works which are of less importance have been undertaken, begun,
+and finished; but I omit them, that I may not render my speech too long.
+
+"I have encouraged the public schools, as far as I could; but this will
+demand some peculiar provision of the legislature. What has been done is
+this:--In order to augment the public library I have bought a large
+collection of choice books; I have augmented the number of schools, and
+increased the salary of some of the masters, besides licensing
+innumerable private schools; and, aware of the benefits of the method of
+mutual instruction, I have opened a Lancasterian school.
+
+"I found the college of San Joaquim, which had been designed by its
+founders for the education of youth, employed as the hospital of the
+European troops. I caused it to be opened anew, for the purposes
+originally intended; and having granted to the _Casa de Misericordia_,
+and the foundling hospital, of which I will speak farther, a lottery for
+the better maintenance of those useful institutions, I assigned a
+certain portion of the said lottery to the college of San Joaquim, that
+it might the better answer the useful end which its worthy founders had
+in view. It is now full of students.
+
+"The first time I visited the foundling hospital, I found (and it seems
+incredible) seven infants with only two wet-nurses; no beds, no
+clothing: I called for the register, and found that in the last thirteen
+years nearly 12,000 children had been received, but scarcely 1000 were
+forthcoming, the Misericordia not knowing in fact what had become of
+them. Then by granting the lottery, a house proper for the establishment
+was built, where there are upwards of thirty beds, almost as many nurses
+as children, and on the whole, much better management. All these things
+of which I have now spoken merit your particular attention.--After this
+province was settled, and important provisions made for the rest, I felt
+it necessary to call together a council of state; and, therefore, by the
+degree of the 16th of February of last year, I convoked one, composed of
+procurators-general, chosen by the people, being desirous that they
+should have some persons near me to represent them, and who might at the
+same time advise me, and demand such things as should be conducive to
+the good of each of the respective provinces. Nor was this the only end
+and motive for which I called such a council together: I wished
+particularly that the Brazilians might know my constitutional feelings.
+How I delighted to govern to the satisfaction of the people, and how
+much my paternal heart desired (though at that time secretly, because
+circumstances did not then permit me to manifest such wishes,) that this
+loyal, grateful, brave, and heroic nation, should be represented in a
+general constituent and legislative assembly; which, thank God, has been
+brought about in consequence of the degree of the 3d of June of the last
+year, at the request of the people conveyed through their camaras, their
+procurators, and my counsellors of state!
+
+"It has been very painful to me that, till now, Brazil should not have
+enjoyed a national representation, and to be forced by circumstances to
+take upon myself to legislate on some points: but my measures cannot
+appear to have arisen from ambition to legislate, arrogating to myself
+the whole power, of which I only could claim a part--for they were taken
+to save Brazil,--because when some of them were adopted the assembly
+had not been convoked, and when others were necessary it had not yet
+met; therefore, as Brazil was totally independent of Portugal, the three
+powers then existed in fact and by right in the person of the supreme
+chief of the nation, and much the more as he was its perpetual defender.
+
+"It is true that some measures appeared extremely strong; but as the
+peril was imminent, and the enemies who surrounded us were innumerable
+(and would to God they were not even now so many), it was necessary they
+should be proportionate.
+
+"I have not spared myself; nor will I ever spare toil, however great, if
+from it the smallest portion of happiness can be derived to the nation.
+
+"When the people of the rich and majestic province of _Minas_ were
+suffering under the iron yoke of their mistaken governors, who disposed
+of it as they pleased, and obliged the pacific and gentle inhabitants to
+disobey me, I marched thither, only attended by my servants: I convicted
+the government and its creatures of the crime they had committed, and of
+the error in which they seemed desirous of persisting; I pardoned them,
+because the crime was more an offence against me, than against the
+nation, as we were then united to Portugal.
+
+"When a party of Portuguese and degenerate Brazilians attached to the
+Cortes of miserable, worn-out Portugal, arose among the brave people of
+the beautiful and delightful province of St. Paul's, I instantly
+repaired thither, and entered the province _fearlessly, because I knew
+the people loved me_. I took the measures that appeared to me to be
+necessary; and there, before any other place, our independence was
+declared, in the ever-memorable plain of Piranga.
+
+"It was at the country seat of the most faithful, and never-enough
+praised Amador Bueno de Rebeira, that I was first proclaimed Emperor.
+
+"My soul itself was grieved that I could not go to Bahia, as I had
+intended, but which I did not do on the remonstrance of my privy
+council, to mingle my blood with that of those warriors who have so
+bravely fought for their country.
+
+"At all hazards, at that of life itself, if necessary, I will maintain
+the title that the people of this rich and vast empire honoured me with
+on the 13th of May, of the past year--PERPETUAL DEFENDER OF BRAZIL. That
+title engaged my heart more, than all the splendour I acquired by their
+spontaneous and unanimous acclamation of me as Emperor of this desirable
+empire.
+
+"Thanks be to Providence, that we now see the nation represented by such
+worthy deputies! Would to God it could have been so earlier! But the
+circumstances preceding the decree of the 3d of June did not permit it;
+and since that time, the great distance, the want of public spirit in
+some, and the inconveniences of long journeys, especially in a country
+so new and extensive as Brazil, have retarded this much-wished and
+necessary meeting, notwithstanding all my repeated recommendations of
+speed.
+
+"At length the great day for this vast empire has arisen, which will be
+the grand epocha of its history. _The assembly is met to constitute the
+nation: what joy--what happiness for us all!_
+
+"As CONSTITUTIONAL EMPEROR, and most especially as PERPETUAL DEFENDER of
+this vast empire, I told the people on the 1st of December, the day when
+I was crowned and anointed, '_That with my sword I would defend the
+country, the nation, and the constitution, if it were worthy of Brazil
+and of me_." I this day, in your presence, most solemnly ratify this
+promise, and I trust you will assist me in fulfilling it, by framing a
+wise, just, and practicable constitution, dictated by reason, not
+caprice; and having solely in view the general happiness, which can
+never be great if the constitution be not founded on solid grounds,
+grounds which the wisdom of ages has shown to be just, in order to give
+true liberty to the people, and sufficient strength to the executive
+power. A constitution in which the limits of the three powers shall be
+well defined, that they may never arrogate rights not their own; but
+shall be so organised and harmonised, that it shall be impossible for
+them, even in the lapse of time, to become inimical to each other, but
+shall every day jointly contribute to the general happiness of the
+state. In short, a constitution which shall oppose insuperable barriers
+to despotism, whether royal, aristocratic, or democratic; defeat
+anarchy; and plant that tree of liberty under whose shadow the honour,
+tranquillity, and independence of this empire, which will become the
+admiration of the Old and New World, must grow.
+
+"All the constitutions which have modelled themselves upon those of 1791
+and 1792, have been shown by experience to be entirely theoretical and
+metaphysical, and therefore impracticable. Witness those of France,
+Spain, and Portugal: they have not, as they ought, produced public
+happiness; but after a licentious freedom, we see that in some countries
+there has already taken place, and in others there is on the point of
+doing so, a despotism of one, after that of many; and, by a necessary
+consequence, the people are reduced to the wretched state of registering
+and suffering all the horrors of anarchy.
+
+"But far from us be such melancholy reflections: they darken the joy and
+exultation of this happy day. You are not ignorant of them; and I am
+sure, that firmness in those true constitutional views, which have been
+sanctioned by experience, will characterise every one of the deputies
+who compose this illustrious assembly. I trust, that the constitution
+which you will frame will merit my Imperial assent; that it will be as
+wise and just as suited to the local situation and to the civilisation
+of the Brazilian people: also that it may be praised among the nations,
+so that even our enemies may imitate the sanctity and wisdom of its
+principles, and at length practise them.
+
+"So illustrious and patriotic an assembly will have in view no object
+but to cause the empire to prosper, and to fill it with happiness: it
+will wish its Emperor to be respected, not only at home but among
+foreign nations; and that its _Perpetual Defender_ should exactly
+fulfil his promise of the first of last December, solemnly ratified
+to-day, in the presence of the nation legally represented."
+
+When the Emperor had done speaking, the bishop of the diocese, acting as
+president of the assembly, made a short answer of thanks, praise, and
+promise; after which, the whole of the members, the spectators in the
+galleries, and the people without doors, cheered His Imperial Majesty
+enthusiastically, and the procession returned to San Cristovaŏ in the
+order in which it came.
+
+The theatre of course concluded the ceremonies of the day; and my
+friend, Madame do Rio Seco, having kindly offered me a seat in her box,
+I went thither, for the first time since my return to Brazil. She was in
+high spirits, because that day the Emperor had conferred on her husband
+the order of the Cruzeiro; and therefore she went really in grand gala
+to the opera. Her diamonds worn that night may be valued at 150,000_l_
+sterling, and many splendid jewels remained behind in the strong box.
+For my part, I had gone to town in my morning dress; therefore I sent to
+a milliner's, and bought such a plain crape head-dress as the customs of
+the place warrant, in deep mourning; and wrapping myself in my shawl,
+accompanied my magnificent friend. The house appeared very splendid,
+being illuminated and dressed, and the ladies one and all in diamonds
+and feathers. Some decorations have been added since last year, and an
+allegorical drop-scene has been painted. The Empress did not come, on
+account of her recent illness; but the Emperor was there, looking pale,
+and a little fatigued. He was received with rapturous applause. The
+members of the assembly were seated one-half on his right, and one-half
+on his left, in boxes handsomely fitted up for them; and as soon as they
+had all taken their places, a poem on the occasion was recited by the
+Prima Donna, in which there were some good points, which called forth
+great applause. I think it is Gresset who, in one of his odes _Au Roi_,
+says,
+
+    "Le cri d'un peuple heureux est la seule éloquence
+    Qui sait parler des rois."
+
+And indeed this night that eloquence was powerful. I cannot conceive a
+situation more full of interest to both prince and people.
+
+There was nothing in the principal piece played to-night, for it was a
+clumsy translation of Lodoiska, without the songs. But the after-piece
+excited much emotion: it was called "The Discovery of Brazil." Cabral
+and his officers were represented as just landed: they had discovered
+the natives of the country; and, according to the custom of the
+Portuguese discoverers, they had set up their white flag, with the red
+holy cross upon it, whence they had first named the land. At the foot of
+this emblem they kneeled in worship, and endeavoured to induce the wild
+Brazilians to join them in their sacred rites. These, on their part,
+tried to persuade Cabral to reverence the heavenly bodies, and
+dissension seemed about to trouble the union of the new friends, when by
+a clumsy enough machine, a little genius came down from above, and
+leaping from its car, displayed the new Imperial standard, inscribed
+_Independencia o Morte_. This was totally unexpected in the house,
+which, for an instant, seemed electrified into silence. I believe I
+clapped my hands first, but the burst of feeling that came from every
+part of the house was long ere it subsided. Now I know nothing so
+overpowering, as that sort of unanimous expression of deep interest,
+from any large body of men. It overset me; and when I ought to have been
+waving my handkerchief decorously from the great chamberlain's box, I
+was hiding my face with it, and weeping heartily. When the house was
+quiet again, I looked at Don Pedro: he had become very pale, and had
+drawn a chair close to his own; on the back of which he leaned, and was
+very grave to the end of the piece, having his hand before his eyes for
+some time; and, indeed, his quick feelings could not have escaped what
+affected even strangers.
+
+At the close of the piece there were loud cries of "Viva la Patria!"
+"Viva o Emperador!" "Viva a Emperatriz!" "Vivaŏ os Deputados!" all
+originating in the body of the house; when Martim Francisco de Andrada
+stepped to the front of one of the boxes of the Deputies, and cried
+"Viva o povo leal e fiel do Rio de Janeiro!" a cry that was extremely
+well seconded, especially by the Emperor, and kindly taken by the
+people; and so this important day ended.
+
+_May 6th._--To-day I rode to San Cristovaŏ, through a very beautiful
+country. The palace, which once belonged to a convent, is placed upon a
+rising ground, and is built rather in the Moresco style, and coloured
+yellow with white mouldings. It has a beautiful screen, a gateway of
+Portland stone, and the court is planted with weeping willows; so that a
+group of great beauty is formed in the bosom of a valley, surrounded by
+high and picturesque mountains, the chief of which is the Beco do
+Perroquito.[107] The view from the palace opens to part of the bay, over
+an agreeable plain flanked by fertile hills, one of which is crowned by
+the very handsome barracks that were once a Jesuit establishment. I rode
+round by the back of the palace to the farm, which appears to be in good
+order; and the village of the slaves, with its little church, looks more
+comfortable than I could have believed it possible for a village of
+slaves to do. The Imperial family now live entirely here, and only go to
+town on formal business or occasions of state.
+
+[Note 107: Nearly 2000 feet high.]
+
+_May 12th._--I have been too unwell to do any thing; and only write
+to-day to notice the arrival of the Jupiter frigate, with Lord Amherst
+on his way to India, and the rumour that he has some official character
+at this court.
+
+_16th._--Lord Amherst and suite went to court in such ceremony as
+induces people to believe he really has a diplomatic character here. The
+Alacrity has arrived from Valparaiso, and has brought me some old
+letters from England that have helped my sickness to depress my spirits.
+'Tis after all a sad thing to be alone and sick in a foreign land! The
+Doris also is arrived from Bahia. She has had no direct communication
+with Lord Cochrane's little squadron; but it seems, that with his six
+ships, he keeps the enemy's fleet of fifteen sail in check. The town of
+Bahia is said to be in a dreadful state for want of provisions. The
+slaves are daily dying in the streets. Some houses, after appearing shut
+up for some days, have been opened by the police officers, who have
+found the masters escaped, and the slaves dead.--Twice a day the gates
+have been opened to allow the women and children to leave the town. Some
+of the officers of the Doris had the curiosity to attend on one of these
+occasions, and saw 500 persons, laden with as much furniture and
+clothes, as in their weak hungry state they could carry, leave the city.
+The little fresh provision that finds its way into the town is
+exorbitantly dear. General Madeira has proclaimed martial-law in the
+place; he has seized some corn and flour out of a neutral ship, and has
+raised forced loans from all classes, both native and foreign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The ship has brought two or three newspapers from Bahia. As might be
+expected, they breathe the most violent, and inveterate spirit against
+the Imperial government, and every body employed by it; calling the
+Emperor a Turkish despot, a sultan, &c., and José Bonifacio a tyrannic
+vizier. Lord Cochrane, of course, does not escape; and to all old
+calumnies against him, they now add that he is a coward, for which
+agreeable compliments they are likely to pay dearly I should think. The
+Supplement to the Idade d'Ouro of the 25th of April gives lists of the
+two squadrons, drawn up for the purpose of inspiring confidence in the
+Portuguese, under-rating the force of Lord Cochrane's ships, and
+representing them as so ill manned,--although, according to them, the
+most oppressive measures were adopted to man them,--as not to be able to
+face the Portuguese. However, they have thought fit to call in all their
+vessels from the Funil and other stations where they had their small
+ships placed, in order to reinforce their fleet.[108] They have
+published a circular letter, calling on all officers and crews to exert
+themselves, promising them the destruction of the Brazilian fleet. And,
+on the same day, the 24th of April, the Admiral Joaŏ Felix Pereira de
+Campos, under pretence of indisposition, turns over the command to
+another officer.
+
+[Note 108: _Brazilian Ships_.
+
+Line-of-battle ship D. Pedro I.  64 guns, really,     78 guns
+
+Frigate Uniăo                    44        do.        50
+
+Frigate Carolina                 36        do.        44
+
+Frigate Successo[*]              36        do.        38
+
+Corvette Maria da Gloria         32        do.        32
+
+Corvette Liberal                 22        do.        22
+
+Schooner Real                    16        do.        16
+
+                               ----     Nightingale   20
+                     Total     250 guns.            ----
+                               ----                  300
+                                                    ----
+
+There is besides one fire-ship and one gun-boat.
+Note: *(Now _Nitherohy_.)
+
+
+_Ships of the Portuguese Squadron_.
+
+                               Guns.
+
+Line-of-battle ship D. Joăo 6   74 {Commandante Capităo de Fragata
+                                   {Joaquin José da Cunha
+
+Frigate Constituiçăo            50 {Capităo de Fragata Joaquim Maria
+                                   {Bruno de Moraes.
+
+Dita Perola                     44 Capităo de Fragata José Joaquim
+                                   d'Amorim.
+
+Corvette Princeza Real          28 Capităo Tenente Francisco Borja
+                                   Pereira de Sá.
+
+Dita Calypso                    22 Capităo Tenente Joaquim Antonio
+                                   de Castro.
+
+Dita Regeneraçăo                26 Capităo de Fragata Joăo Ignacio
+                                   da Silveira e Motta.
+
+Dita Dez de Fevereiro           26 Capităo de Fragata Miguel Gil de
+                                   Noronha.
+
+Dita Activa                     22 Capităo Lieut. Isidoro Francisco
+                                   Guimarăes.
+
+Brig Audaz                      20 Capităo Tenente Joăo da Costa
+                                   Carvalho.
+
+Corvette S. Gaulter             26 1º Lieut. Graduado Manoel de
+                                   Jesus.
+
+Corvette Principe do Brazil     26 Lieut. Antonio Feliciano
+                                   Rodrigues.
+
+Dita Restauraçăo                26 1º Tenente Graduado Flores.
+
+Sumaca Conceiçăo                 8 2º Tenente Carvalho.
+                              ----
+                     Total     398 guns.
+                              ----
+
+]
+
+These measures were adopted, in consequence of the news of Lord
+Cochrane's arrival in Brazil having been conveyed to General Madeira by
+His Britannic Majesty's ship Tartar, the only vessel that sailed from
+Rio during the time of the embargo. We are becoming very anxious indeed
+for news from His Lordship: many rumours are afloat; but as there has
+been no direct communication from the squadron, they only increase the
+general anxiety.
+
+_May 17th_.--Soon after I arrived here, in March, or rather as soon as
+my patient Glennie left me, I felt that, as a stranger here, and
+situated as I am, I was peculiarly unprotected, and therefore I spoke to
+the minister José Bonifacio, telling him my feelings; and saying, that
+from the amiable character of the Empress, I should wish to be allowed
+to wait on her, and to consider her as protecting me while I remain in
+the empire. She accordingly promised to fix a day for me to see her; but
+a severe indisposition has hitherto confined her to her room. Now, Lady
+Amherst having requested to see Her Imperial Majesty, the day after
+to-morrow is fixed on for the purpose; and I have an intimation that I
+shall be received on the same day, as the Empress wishes not to receive
+any other foreigner before me. This is polite, or rather it is more; it
+is really kind.
+
+_19th_.--Though I was suffering exceedingly this morning, I resolved
+nevertheless to attend the Empress at noon, at San Cristovaŏ. I was
+obliged to take a quantity of opium, to enable me to do so. However, I
+arrived at the appointed time; and, as I had been desired to do, asked
+for the _camarista môr_, Jose Bonifacio's sister, and was shown into the
+presence-chamber, where I found that lady and Lady Amherst, Miss
+Amherst, and Mrs. Chamberlain. The Empress entered shortly after, in a
+handsome morning dress of purple satin, with white ornaments, and
+looking extremely well. Mrs. Chamberlain presented Lady and Miss
+Amherst; and Her Imperial Majesty spoke for some minutes with Her
+Ladyship. After which she motioned to me to go to her, which I did. She
+spoke to me most kindly; and said, in a very flattering way, that she
+had long known me by name, and several other things that persons in her
+rank can make so agreeable by voice and manner; and I left her with the
+most agreeable impressions. She is extremely like several persons whom I
+have seen of the Austrian Imperial family, and has a remarkably sweet
+expression.
+
+The corridor through which I passed from the palace steps, and the
+presence-room, are both plain and handsome. As it might be called a
+private audience, there were neither guards, officers, nor attendants,
+excepting the camarista môr.
+
+The Emperor is at present at his country-house of Santa Cruz; so that
+San Cristovaŏ appeared like a private gentleman's seat, it was so still.
+
+_Saturday, June 7th_.--Since the day I was at San Cristovaŏ, I have been
+confined to my room, and totally unable to exert myself, either mind or
+body, from severe indisposition. The Creole is come in from Bahia, to
+get provisions, preparatory to going home. The Commodore has offered me
+a passage in her, and has written to that purpose; but I am in no state
+to embark for a long voyage. The accounts from Bahia are sadder than
+ever: as to the Bahians, though favourable to the Imperial cause the
+misery, of the poor inhabitants is great indeed.
+
+_12th._--We have been for three days kept in a state of agitation, by
+reports that Bahia has fallen, and various rumours attending those
+reports: they all turn out to have arisen from a _russe de guerre_ of
+Madeira, who contrived to despatch a small vessel to a port on the coast
+for flour, pretending that it was for Lord Cochrane, and spreading that
+report to cover its real purpose.
+
+_23d._--A brig, prize to the squadron, arrived, and also the Sesostris,
+a merchant ship bound to Valparaiso, on board of which were Lady
+Cochrane and her family going to Chile. Thank God, by putting in here,
+she has learned where Lord Cochrane is, and is thus spared the tedious
+voyage, and her excellent husband much anxiety on her account.
+
+_14th._--At length we have true news both from and of Lord Cochrane. I
+wrote to Lady Cochrane, excusing myself on account of illness from going
+to her, and she kindly called on me as she landed; and a few minutes
+afterwards I received letters from the Admiral, and from some others in
+the squadron.
+
+As might have been expected, from the haste in which the squadron was
+equipped, the ships had to encounter some difficulties at first. Some of
+the sails and cordage, which had been seventeen years in store, were
+found almost unserviceable; the guns of some of the ships were without
+locks, as the Portuguese had not adopted them: the cartridges were
+mostly made up in canvass: but the real evil was the number of
+Portuguese, both men and officers, among the crews, which kept them in a
+continual state of discontent, if not mutiny.
+
+Lord Cochrane had chosen as head-quarters for the squadron, the harbour
+behind the Moro of San Paulo, about thirty miles south of Bahia, and
+commanding the channel behind Itaparica; a country well watered and
+wooded, and in the neighbourhood of all supplies of fresh necessaries.
+There is good and sheltered anchorage in from seven to twenty fathoms
+water, and on the whole it was well adapted for its purpose. As soon as
+it was known that His Lordship was off Bahia, the Portuguese squadron
+came out, and spread itself along the shore north of the bay. Lord
+Cochrane, who had waited in vain at the place of rendezvous at sea for
+the two fire-ships, which he expected from Rio, had fitted one of his
+small vessels, the schooner Real, as a fire-ship, and had intended to
+run into Bahia on the 4th of May; when he fell in with the Portuguese
+fleet, in number thirteen[109], he having with him five ships, a brig,
+and the fire vessel. He instantly ran through their line, cutting off
+the four sternmost ships; and had the men done their duty, nothing could
+have saved the ship they were first alongside of: but they fired too
+soon; and though the fire did great execution, wounding and killing
+many, both on board that ship and the Joam VI., which was immediately to
+the windward of the Pedro, yet the Admiral was disappointed. The slow
+sailing of the Piranga and Netherohy kept them farther behind the Pedro
+than their brave commanders wished; the others were forced to keep
+aloof, it is said, by the conviction that their crews could not be
+trusted against the Portuguese. As to the crew of the Admiral's ship,
+two of the Portuguese marines went into the magazine passage, and with
+their drawn swords impeded the handing up the powder. The squadrons
+separated after this. Lord Cochrane determined to attack the Portuguese
+again next day. Captain Crosbie, Lieutenant Shepherd, and eleven others
+were wounded; but no other damage was sustained by the Imperial
+squadron, while that of the Europeans had suffered much both in crews
+and rigging.
+
+[Note 109: One ship of the line, five frigates, five corvettes, a
+brig, and a schooner.]
+
+On the morning of the 5th, Lord Cochrane looked in vain for the enemy.
+He had apparently been satisfied with the skirmish of the 4th, and had
+taken refuge in the harbour; so that His Lordship returned to the Moro
+de San Paulo, with only the satisfaction of having driven the enemy from
+the open sea.
+
+Meantime the Brazilian Imperial force that was posted behind the city,
+taking advantage of the absence of the fleet, and consequently of the
+two thousand seamen who served the artillery ashore, advanced from the
+sitio of Brotas, where their centre was quartered, towards the town.
+Madeira marched out to meet them, and an action took place entirely in
+favour of the Imperialists; and it is said that the King's fleet was
+recalled in consequence of this disaster.
+
+Lord Cochrane had no sooner returned to San Paulo than he made such
+provisions with regard to his squadron, as he judged most prudent for
+the public service. The vessel that has arrived here has brought down
+some of the ill-affected Portuguese. All, I believe, from the report of
+the officer who arrived in the prize, have been dismissed from the Pedro
+Primero.
+
+Lord Cochrane has taken the officers and English seamen of the Piranga
+and Nitherohy on board the Pedro, so that now he has one ship he may
+depend on: he has exchanged the eighteen-pound guns of the main-deck,
+for the twenty-four pounders of the Piranga, and has placed guns along
+his gang-ways; and we trust the next news we have from him, we shall
+learn something favourable to the cause of independence.
+
+As far as the government here could supply every thing to the squadron
+to insure its success, it was done in the most liberal manner; and the
+failures, where they occurred, were owing to the peculiar circumstances
+of the times and country, which admitted of no controul. That some
+things should have been imperfect was to be expected: that so much
+should have been done, and well done, excites admiration. But the
+Emperor appreciates the brave man who commands his fleet; and while that
+is the case, a difficulty as soon as felt will be obviated.
+
+_19th_.--My health grows worse and worse. The Creole sailed to-day. I
+have amused myself for two days with some English newspapers. If any
+thing can rouse me to health it surely ought to be news from England.
+
+Lord Althorp has, I see, made a spirited but ineffectual effort for the
+repeal of the foreign enlistment bill; a most interesting subject in
+this country: and I see with pleasure a virtual acknowledgment from the
+English ministers of the independence of Spanish America.
+
+_22d_.--This is the eve of St. John's, whereon the maidens of Brazil
+practise some of the same rites as those of Scotland do at Hallowe'en,
+to ascertain the fate of their loves. They burn nuts together; they put
+their hands, blindfold, on a table, with the letters of the alphabet;
+and practise many a simple conjuration. I think I recollect long ago, to
+have seen the maid-servants of a house in Berkshire place an herb, I
+think a kind of stone-crop, behind the door, calling it Midsummer men,
+that was to chain the favoured youth as he entered. For me I only wish
+for the _nucca_ drop of the Arab to fall this night, so I might catch
+it, and be relieved from my weary sickness.
+
+_June 26th_.--My friend, Dr. Dickson, who has attended me all this time
+with unvarying kindness, having advised change of air for me, he and Mr.
+May have pitched on a small house on Botafogo beach, having an upper
+story, which is considered as an advantage here, the ground-floor houses
+being often a little damp; and to-day Captain Willis of the Brazen
+brought me in his boat to my new dwelling. My good neighbours, Colonel
+and Mrs. Cunningham, try by their hospitality to prevent my feeling so
+much the loss of my friends Mr. and Mrs. May, who were every thing kind
+to me while at the Gloria.
+
+Botafogo bay is certainly one of the most beautiful scenes in the world;
+but, till of late years, its shores were little inhabited by the higher
+classes of society. At the farthest end there is a gorge between the
+Corcovado mountain and the rocks belonging to what may be called the
+Sugar-loaf group, which leads to the Lagoa of Rodrigo Freites, through
+which gorge a small rivulet of fine fresh water runs to the sea. Just at
+its mouth, there has long been a village inhabited by gipsies, who have
+found their way hither, and preserve much of their peculiarity of
+appearance and character in this their trans-atlantic home. They conform
+to the religion of the country in all outward things, and belong to the
+parish of which the curate of Nossa Senhora da Monte is pastor; but
+their conformity does not appear to have influenced their moral habits.
+They employ their slaves in fishing, and part of their families is
+generally resident at their settlements; but the men rove about the
+country, and are the great horse-jockies of this part of Brazil. Some of
+them engage in trade, and many are very rich, but still they are reputed
+thieves and cheats; and to call a man _Zingara_ (gipsy) is as much as to
+call him knave. They retain their peculiar dialect; but I have not been
+able, personally, to get sufficiently acquainted with them to form any
+judgment of the degree in which their change of country and climate may
+have affected their original habits.
+
+His Majesty's ship Beaver arrived, two days since from Bahia. It seems
+that Madeira, unable to hold the place any longer, is resolved to leave
+it. He is pressed to the utmost by Lord Cochrane's squadron, which cuts
+off his provisions, and by continual alarms kept up on the coast, by His
+Lordship's own appearance from sea, and by the preparations he is making
+in the Reconcave for an attack with fire-ships and gun-boats on the
+town. It is expected, therefore, that Madeira will abandon the place as
+soon as he can get shipping together to embark the troops. It is
+asserted even that he has fixed the day, that of San Pedro, for
+evacuating the place. The following proclamation is certainly
+preparatory to his doing so; but as the time must depend on
+contingencies, it cannot be so certain:--
+
+"Inhabitants of Bahia!
+
+"The crisis in which we find ourselves is perilous, because the means of
+subsistence fail us, and we cannot secure the entrance of any
+provisions. My duty as a soldier, and as governor, is to make every
+sacrifice in order to save the city; but it is equally my duty to
+prevent in an extreme case the sacrifice of the troops that I command,
+of the squadron, and of yourselves. I shall employ every means to fulfil
+both these duties. Do not suffer yourselves to be persuaded that
+measures of foresight are always followed by disasters. You have already
+seen me take such once before: they alarmed you; but you were afterwards
+convinced that they portended nothing extraordinary. Even in the midst
+of formidable armies, measures of precaution are daily used; because
+victory is not constant, and reverses should be provided against. You
+may assure yourselves, that the measures I am now taking are purely
+precautionary: but it is necessary to communicate them to you, because
+if it happens that we must abandon the city, many of you will leave it
+also; and I should be responsible to the nation and to the King, if I
+had not forewarned you. (Signed)
+
+"IGNACIO LUIZ MADEIRA DE MELLO.
+
+Head-quarters, Bahia, May 28. 1823."
+
+This proclamation increased the general alarm to the highest pitch. The
+editors of even the Portuguese newspapers use the strongest language.
+One of them says, "The few last days, we have witnessed in this city a
+most doleful spectacle, that must touch the heart even of the most
+insensible: a panic terror has seized on all men's minds," &c.[110] And
+then goes on to anticipate the horrors of a city left without
+protectors, and of families, whose fathers being obliged to fly, should
+be left like orphans, with their property, a prey to the invaders. These
+fears abated a little on the 2d of June, when a vessel entered Bahia,
+having on board 3000 alquieres of farinha; and the spirits of the troops
+were raised by a slight advantage obtained on the 3d over the patriots.
+But the relief was of short duration. On a rigorous search there were
+found in the city no more than six weeks' provisions besides those
+necessary for the ships, and the General proceeded in his preparations
+for quitting Brazil. He now allowed the magistrates to resume their
+functions suspended by the declaration of martial-law, and produced a
+letter from the King, naming five persons to form a provisional
+government; and though some of them were unwilling to accept of the
+office, he caused them to take the oaths, and enter directly on their
+functions.
+
+[Note 110: _Semanario Civico_ of the 5th June.]
+
+Madeira's preparations for his departure were accelerated by an attack
+made by Lord Cochrane on the night of the 12th of June, with only the
+Pedro Primeiro. The Portuguese Admiral was ashore, dining with General
+Madeira; when, at ten o'clock at night, a shot was heard. "What is it?"
+exclaimed the latter to the messenger, who, in alarm, entered the
+room.--"'Tis Lord Cochrane's line-of-battle ship, in the very midst of
+our fleet."--"Impossible!" exclaimed the Admiral; "no large ship can
+have come up with the ebb tide." And there was as much consternation and
+as much bustle of preparation, as if the fleet of England had entered in
+a hostile manner. The Pedro Primeiro was indeed close alongside of the
+Constituiçaŏ; but the Admiral disdained so small a prize, and pushed on
+to the Joam VI.; had he reached her, he might have carried the whole
+squadron out with him; but just as he seemed on the point of doing so,
+the breeze that had brought him in over the tide failed, and it fell a
+dead calm: by this time every ship was in motion, the forts began to
+play, and, reluctantly, the Pedro dropped out of the harbour with the
+tide, untouched by the enemy.
+
+The daring of this attempt has filled the Portuguese with astonishment
+and dismay, and they are now most willing to abandon Bahia. The church
+plate, and all the cash that can be collected, are believed to be on
+board the British ships of war.[111]
+
+[Note 111: This is reported only. I have never asked, nor should I,
+I imagine, receive an answer if I did ask, any English officer about
+such things. The general disposition among them is evidently towards the
+old government; but their conduct is, as it ought to be, strictly
+neutral.]
+
+_July 1st_.--A good deal of sensation has been excited to-day of rather
+a painful nature: the Emperor has fallen from his horse, and has broken
+two of his ribs, and is otherwise much bruised; however, his youth and
+strength prevent any serious apprehension from the consequences of his
+accident. There is no public news, and I am much too ill to care for any
+other. A foreigner, and alone, and very sick, I have abundant leisure to
+see the worth to the world of riches, or the appearance of them, and
+show and parade; and to feel that if I had them all, they could neither
+relieve the head nor the heart of the suffering or the sorrowful.
+
+I think I am grown selfish: I cannot interest myself in the little
+things of other people's lives as I used to do; I require the strong
+stimulus of public interest to rouse my attention. It is long since I
+have been able to go out among the beautiful scenery here, to enjoy the
+charms of nature.
+
+_11th_.--Once more I begin to feel better, and to go out of doors a
+little. All sorts of people crowd daily to visit the Emperor, who is
+recovering, but is still confined to the house. For the first time for
+these many weeks, I took a drive to-day; and went, as far as San
+Cristovaŏ, to enquire after His Imperial Majesty, and leave my name. The
+road, both as I went and returned, was crowded with carriages and
+horsemen, on the same errand. Besides that the people do love him, his
+life is of the utmost importance to the very existence of Brazil as an
+independent nation at present, at any rate in peace.
+
+_13th_.--I have become acquainted with two or three pleasant Brazilians,
+and one or two of the better kind of Portuguese, who have adopted
+Brazil.[112] There are not above five Fidalgos of the number, and these
+ancient nobles are objects of jealousy to the new, in number about a
+dozen, who infinitely surpass them in riches; so that we have the usual
+gossip and scandal of courts and cities, in which, as the women are
+usually the most active, so they suffer most: nor are our English one
+whit behind them. There is not much formal visiting among the English,
+but a good deal of quiet tea-drinking, and now and then parties formed
+to dine out of doors in the cool weather.
+
+[Note 112: On the 9th of March, an Imperial edict was published,
+desiring all such as would not conform to the laws of the empire to quit
+it within two months, if they dwelt on the coast, and within four, if
+inland, on pain of loss of property; and thenceforth all good subjects
+to wear on their arms the green rose and gold badge, with _Independencia
+o Morte_, engraved on it.]
+
+In short, my countrywomen here are a discreet sober set of persons, with
+not more than a reasonable share of good or bad. They go pretty
+regularly to church on Sundays, for we have a very pretty protestant
+chapel in Rio, served by a respectable clergyman; meet after church to
+luncheon and gossip: some go afterwards to the opera, others play cards,
+and some few stay at home, or ride out with their husbands, and instruct
+themselves and families by reading; and all this much as it happens in
+Europe. However, they are all very civil to me; and why should I see
+faults, or be hurt at the absurd stories they tell of me, because they
+don't know me? Besides, 'tis no great affront to be called wiser than
+one is.
+
+_14th_.--Several prizes have arrived from the Moro of San Paulo. One of
+these vessels has brought news from the Moro that I only half like.
+After Lord Cochrane's visit to Bahia on the night of the 12th of June,
+he had been employed for the eight ensuing days in maturing a plan for a
+farther attack, which seemed sure of success; when, on the 20th[113],
+"some careless or malignant person set fire to a cask of spirits, which
+communicated to other casks, and created such terror, that more than a
+hundred persons jumped overboard; some of whom were drowned. It is
+calculated that we should have been blown up if the fire had raged only
+three minutes longer; and its extinction is chiefly to be ascribed to
+the presence of mind and personal exertion of His Lordship himself; who,
+I am grieved to add, was so overheated by the blaze and his own
+exertions, as to be too ill this morning to leave his bed."
+
+[Note 113: Extracted from a letter written to me on the 21st by a
+friend on board.]
+
+_17th_.--At length Bahia has fallen. Madeira, in pursuance of the plans
+announced in his proclamation of the 28th, had prepared all his ships of
+war, and a great number of merchantmen, with provisions, and ammunition,
+and stores: the plate, money, and jewels, were transhipped from the
+English vessels to his own, and it was believed he was to sail on the 3d
+of July. Lord Cochrane, having intelligence to that effect, had come
+alone in the Pedro Primeiro to look into the harbour, on the morning of
+the 2d, when he saw the Portuguese squadron loose all their topsails and
+prepare to move. This manœuvre was not considered by the English within
+the bay as decisive, because it had been practised daily for some time.
+His Lordship, however, immediately made signals to the Maria de Gloria
+and Nitherohy to join him with all despatch. The Piranga, useless from
+her bad sailing, owing to the state of her copper, had been ordered to
+Rio; and she and the Liberal, who both arrived to-day, are the bearers
+of the official intelligence. Lord Cochrane, whose kindness is
+never-failing, writes to me as follows. I do not like to quote, even in
+my journal, private letters; but this is short, and tells in few words
+all that can be said:--
+
+"MY DEAR MADAM,
+
+"I have been grieved to learn your indisposition; but you must recover,
+now that I tell you we have starved the enemy out of Bahia. The forts
+were abandoned this morning; and the men of war, 13 in number, with
+about 32 sail of transports and merchant vessels, are under sail. We
+shall follow (i.e. the Maria da Gloria and Pedro Primeiro) to the
+world's end. I say again expect good news. Ever believe me your sincere
+and respectful friend,
+
+COCHRANE.
+2d July, 1823.
+Eight miles north of Bahia."
+
+I learn from the officers of the ships arrived, that the guns were all
+spiked, and the magazines blown up in Port Pedro, but otherwise every
+thing was left in good order in the town; and on the marching in of the
+Brazilian troops not the smallest disorder took place, nor was a life
+lost; a circumstance highly honourable to all parties.
+
+Though the Admiral mentions only forty-five vessels, it appears that
+there were many more, amounting to at least eighty, who took the
+opportunity of getting out with the fleet. When the Piranga left the
+Moro, a reinforcement of men had arrived there for the Admiral; and the
+Nitherohy was manning herself, and preparing to follow him in a few
+hours.
+
+This news is highly acceptable here, except among a class either
+secretly attached to, or interested in, Portugal. These are murmuring,
+and saying, "Is it not enough for Lord Cochrane to have driven the poor
+soldiers out of Bahia, without following to persecute them?" &c. And
+others are affecting to despise what they call an easy service. But the
+government knows that it was not an easy service to keep the sea with so
+small a squadron, so recently formed, against a fleet completely armed
+and manned,--vessels of the best class; far less to cut off the
+provisions of the enemy, so as to reduce him to the necessity of
+abandoning his city.
+
+There are illuminations and a gala opera to-night; but as the Emperor is
+not yet able to go, his picture, and that of the Empress, will appear
+instead. It is an old Portuguese custom, I believe, to display the
+picture of the monarch in his absence on occasions of ceremony.
+
+_18th_.--The city has been thrown into considerable agitation to-day, by
+the knowledge, that yesterday the ministry of the Andradas ceased. It
+appears that a few days ago, I believe on the 16th, an unknown person
+presented a letter at the palace-door, and told the servant who received
+it, that his life should not be safe if he did not deliver it into the
+Emperor's own hand. The letter was delivered accordingly, and read; upon
+which His Imperial Majesty sent for Jose Bonifacio: they remained
+closeted for a length of time, and the result of the conference was,
+that Jose Bonifacio resigned his employment; and Brazil has lost an able
+minister, and the Emperor a zealous servant. It is rumoured that the
+letter was written from St. Paul's, and contained at least 300
+signatures of persons complaining of the Andradas' tyrannical conduct in
+that province; particularly imprisoning persons who had opposed the
+election of certain members of the assembly, and ordering others, on
+various pretexts, to repair to Rio, where they had been kept away from
+their families.
+
+These things, however, are capable of a favourable interpretation; and,
+in such stormy times, some severity may have been necessary, or, indeed,
+the zeal of the minister may have carried him too far.[114]
+
+[Note 114: The discussions in the assembly of the 9th of May throw
+much light on this transaction.]
+
+However that may be, the resignation of Jose Bonifacio is certain; and
+not less so that of his brother, Martim Francisco, whose unimpeachable
+integrity at the head of the treasury it will not be easy to supply. The
+conjectures, reasonings, and reports, on these subjects, are, of course,
+very various. The most general idea is, that the Andradas are
+overpowered by a republican party in the assembly; which, though small,
+has a decided plan, and works accordingly; and, oddly enough, their fall
+is said to have been brought about by an attempt, on their part, to get
+rid of old monarchy men. Monis Tavares, a clever man, whose name will be
+remembered in the sittings of the Lisbon Cortes as an advocate for
+Brazil, proposed in an early sitting of the assembly, May 22, the
+absolute expulsion from Brazil of all persons born in Portugal. The
+proposal gave rise to a warm discussion, and was negatived. This defeat
+was the signal for all the Portuguese party, and they are not weak, to
+join with the republicans to overthrow the Andradas; and they have
+succeeded. Such is the view taken of this business by many intelligent
+persons. However the fact may be, the Emperor's feeling to disclaim all
+tyranny or connivance at tyranny, is praiseworthy; but a well-wisher to
+Brazil may be permitted to desire that such able men had proved their
+innocence to his satisfaction, and had retained their situations. This
+evening the Emperor has circulated the following address to his
+people:--
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil,
+
+"The government which does not guide itself by public opinion, or which
+is ignorant of it, must become the scourge of humanity. The monarch who
+knows not this truth will precipitate his empire into a gulf of
+misfortunes, each more terrible than the preceding. Providence has
+granted to me the knowledge of this truth. I have founded my system on
+it, and to that system I will be faithful.
+
+"Despotism and arbitrary acts are detested by me. It is but a short time
+since that I gave you one among many other proofs of this. We may all be
+deceived; but monarchs rarely hear the truth: if they do not seek it, it
+seldom appears to them. When once they know it, they should follow it. I
+have known it, and I do act accordingly. Although we have not yet a
+fixed constitution to govern ourselves by, we have at least those
+foundations for one, built on reason, which ought to be inviolable.
+These are the sacred rights of personal security, property, and the
+inviolability of the home of every citizen. If these have hitherto been
+violated, it was because your Emperor knew not that such despotism and
+acts of arbitrary power, improper at all times, and contrary to the
+system we profess, were exercised. Be assured that henceforth they shall
+be religiously supported: you shall live happy and safe in the bosoms of
+your families, in the arms of your tender wives, and surrounded by your
+beloved children. In vain shall imprudent men try to belie my
+constitutional principles; they will always triumph, as the sun breaks
+through the darkest clouds. Rely upon me, as I on you, and you will see
+democracy and despotism annihilated by rational liberty.
+
+THE EMPEROR."
+
+The address has been well received; and perhaps those incidents, which,
+in a time like the present, bring the monarch and people more together,
+are really conducive to the harmony and stability of the whole political
+system. Meantime, Jose Joaquim Carneiro de Campos is prime minister, and
+Manoel Jacintho Noguerra de Gama is at the head of the treasury; a man
+so rich as to be above temptation, and whose character for integrity is
+scarcely lower than that of his predecessor.
+
+_July 23d_.--I had for some time promised to paint a sketch of San
+Cristavaŏ for the Empress, and to-day I resolved to carry it to her. So
+I went, and on my way breakfasted at my good friend the Viscondeça do
+Rio Seco's; I then proceeded to the palace, and went up first to enquire
+after the Emperor's health: while I was writing my name, he, having
+perceived me arrive from the window, politely sent to say he would see
+me, and accordingly I was ushered into the presence-chamber by the
+Viador Don Luiz da Ponte; there I saw ministers and generals all in
+state. The Emperor was in a small inner room, where were his piano, his
+shooting apparatus, &c.; he was in an undressed cotton jacket with his
+arm in a sling, but looking well, although thinner and paler than
+formerly: he sent for the little picture, with which he seemed much
+pleased; and after speaking for some time very politely in French, I
+made my courtesy and retired. I then went to the Empress's apartment:
+she was out, but I was asked to wait for her return from her walk; and
+in the meantime I saw the young Princesses, who are extremely fair, and
+like Her Imperial Majesty, especially the eldest, Dona Maria da Gloria,
+who has one of the most intelligent faces I have seen. The Empress came
+in soon, and talked to me a good while on a variety of subjects, and
+very kindly of my late illness. Setting aside the consideration of her
+high rank, it is not a little pleasing to me to meet so well-educated
+and well-bred a woman; and I felt quite sorry to leave her without
+telling her so: she is in all respects an amiable and respectable woman.
+No distressed person ever applies to her in vain; and her conduct, both
+public and private, justly commands the admiration and love of her
+family and subjects: her personal accomplishments would adorn the
+station of a private gentlewoman; her temper, prudence, and courage, fit
+her for her high situation. On my way back to town I stopped at a
+country-house belonging to M. do Rio Seco: it is called Rio Comprido,
+and is remarkable for its garden; the outer hedge of which is like a
+fairy bower, or rather might adorn the gardens of Armida. A fence,
+breast-high, of myrtle and other evergreens, is surmounted by arcades
+of ever-blowing roses; among which a jessamine, or a scarlet or purple
+creeper, twines itself occasionally, enriching the flowery cornice of
+the pillars between which the paths of entrance lie. The inner part one
+might indeed wish less stiff; but then all is kept in such order, and
+filled with such rich flowers and shrubs, that one knows not how the
+change might be made with advantage. The house is low, and pleasant for
+the climate; the orchard, kitchen garden, and grass fields behind,
+delightful; and the whole is surrounded by beautiful views. The Padre
+Jose, who is the chaplain, is also the overseer of the estate; a
+combination of offices that I find is usual here.
+
+After passing some hours there with my hospitable friends, I returned to
+town, and spent an hour with my friend Dona Carlota de Carvalho e Mello,
+and met a number of the ladies of her family; and among the rest, her
+aunt, the wife of Manoel Jacintho, the new minister of finance, one of
+the most pleasing women I have seen in Brazil. I had the pleasure of
+complimenting Dona Carlota's father, on having just received his
+commission as member of the assembly for Bahia, now it is free: I might,
+with truth, have complimented Bahia on so judicious a choice. I returned
+home early, notwithstanding the entreaties of my young friend that I
+would stay, as she considered the evening scarcely begun: the family is
+so large, that, at the house of one or the other, there is always a
+pleasant evening society. The men converse apart till tea-time, after
+which music or dancing brings at least the younger part to join the
+ladies; and it is seldom that they separate before midnight.
+
+_July 25th_.--Our society at Botafogo is enlivened by the arrival of
+Commodore Sir T. Hardy, who occupies the house of the disembargador
+França, and who is not only cheerful and sociable himself, but causes
+cheerfulness around him. The officers of his own ship, and those of the
+rest of the squadron, are of course great acquisitions to the parties at
+Rio; but I see little of them: my dull house, and duller self, offering
+nothing inviting except to the midshipmen of my old ship, who visit me
+very constantly. I have bought a small horse[115] for the sake of
+exercise, and sometimes accompany the boys on their evening rides. Last
+night I went with two of them to the Praya Vermelha; and finding the
+officer of the guard at the gate of the fort, we asked leave to go in,
+which being granted, we entered, and walked about admiring the views. It
+was the first time I had seen the little bay Vermelha from the land
+side, the fort being built quite along the isthmus that unites the
+Sugar-loaf with the mainland. We remained without thinking of the time
+till the sun was fairly set; and then, on returning to the gate, we
+found it shut, and that the keys had been carried to the governor. So I
+had to go to the officer of the guard, who understanding what had
+happened, ordered the guard under arms, and went himself for the keys,
+and conducted us out of the fort with great politeness. Wherever I have
+met with Brazilians, from the greatest to the meanest, I must say I have
+always experienced the greatest politeness: from the fidalgo who calls
+on me in full court costume, to the peasant, or the common soldier, I
+have had occasion to admire, and be grateful for, their courtesy.
+
+[Note 115: For this beast, which is really fit for nothing but the
+riding of an invalid like myself, I gave 35 milrees; a price for which,
+in Chile, one might buy a very fine horse.]
+
+_August 1st, 1823_.--The English packet arrived to-day; and brings news
+that the royal party in Lisbon have overpowered that of the Cortes. This
+intelligence is looked on as very important here, because it is hoped
+that the court may be more easily induced to acknowledge the
+independence of Brazil; and it is said that the authorities in Madeira
+have already orders to receive, and treat amicably, ships under the
+Brazilian flag. The general tone of politics here is less pleasing than
+it has been. There have been some disagreeable discussions in the
+assembly: a vote has passed refusing the veto to the Emperor; and it is
+said that the republican party is so elated on the occasion, that they
+think of proposing to refuse him the command of the army. The
+Imperialists are of course indignant at all this. However, we shall see
+what will happen when the deputation of the assembly carries up the
+notice of the vote, as it is said will be done next week, when the
+Emperor will be strong enough to receive it. He is now so well that he
+intends in ten days to return thanks at the church of Santa Maria da
+Gloria, and means on the same day to review the troops at San Cristovaŏ.
+They are collecting there for that purpose; and I saw the artillery
+marching that way to-day while I was in town, whither I went to purchase
+some newspapers, particularly the Diario da Assemblea. I take it very
+ill that ladies may not attend the sittings of the assembly, not that I
+know there is any formal prohibition; but the thing is considered as so
+impossible, that I cannot go. It is provided with a gallery? scarcely
+larger in proportion than that of the English House of Commons, for
+strangers; and the proceedings are published. The members speak standing
+in their places: they are something more dressed than the Commons in
+England; but they have no peculiar costume. The President or Speaker is
+changed monthly.
+
+_3d_.--I drank tea at the Baronesa de Campos'; and met a large family
+party, which always assembles on Sundays to pay their respects to the
+old lady. The tea was made by one of the young ladies, with the
+assistance of her sister, just as it would be in England. A large silver
+urn, silver tea-pots, milk-jugs, and sugar-dishes, with elegant china,
+were placed on a large table; round which several of the young people
+assembled, and sent round the tea to us, who sat at a distance. All
+sorts of bread, cakes, buttered toast, and rusks were handed with the
+tea; and after it was removed, sweetmeats of every description were
+presented, after which every body took a glass of water.
+
+_6th_.--Sailed to-day, H.M. ship Beaver, with my friend Mr. Dance as
+acting captain; the world says she takes some very important despatches
+relating to the commerce of England with the independent provinces of La
+Plata; but as the world often tells what is not true, and as what is
+true is never confessed by those who know officially, I never trouble
+myself to ask about these things. I am sorry to see almost my last
+friend leave the station before me: but I am now so used to losing, one
+way or another, all who from any motive have ever acted or felt kindly
+to me, that I hope soon to grow callous to the pain such loss still
+gives. It is in vain that I flatter myself that I have recovered the
+tone of my mind. I am affected even to weakness by every little
+incident, and am obliged to take refuge from my private feelings, in the
+interest that I have lately forced myself to take in the affairs of this
+country; and surely, where the happiness of millions of its
+fellow-creatures is at stake, the human heart may unblamed busy itself.
+
+This morning Sir T. Hardy, who is always anxious to do kind offices,
+carried me to call on Mrs. Chamberlain: I can truly say, if I had known
+her ideas on the subject of etiquette, I should have called on her
+before; and therefore I am glad to do what is expected.[116] She seems
+to be a well-informed woman, with pleasant manners.
+
+[Note 116: Notwithstanding the peculiar circumstances, both on my
+own account and that of the invalid I had with me, of my return to Rio,
+Mrs. C----, the wife of the British consul, took no notice of my
+arrival. I learnt afterwards, that it is expected that women, as well as
+men, should call on the consuls. I was not aware of this, having
+_formerly_ received the first visits in such cases.]
+
+After I returned, I joined a party in a pleasant ride to the _Copa
+Cabana_, a little fort that defends one of the small bays behind that of
+Vermelha, and whence there are to be seen some of the most beautiful
+views here. The woods in the neighbourhood are very fine, and produce a
+great deal of the excellent fruit called the Cambucá; and among the
+hills the small oppossum and the armadillo are frequently found.
+
+_8th_.--The discussions and vote concerning the Emperor's veto have
+excited a great commotion, of words at least; and the English fetchers
+and carriers of news have agreed that there will be some serious
+insurrection on the part of the soldiers, to defend the Emperor from
+some indefinite oppression of the Assembly. I believe it is true that
+the Assembly itself, being convinced that their vote concerning the veto
+is impolitic and unjust, have determined to cancel it; and it is equally
+true, that there have been some military clubs, whose language has been
+rather violent on the subject. But that there are the slightest grounds
+for expecting any serious disturbance, I cannot think. The Emperor
+appears too sincere in his desire to see the greatest possible
+prosperity in Brazil, to encourage any violent proceedings to overawe
+the Constituent Assembly; and at the same time he has too much spirit to
+submit to terms, from any quarter, derogatory to his dignity and rights.
+I have just received his proclamation on the occasion, which I doubt not
+will produce a good effect. These proclamations are agreeable to the
+taste of the people; and in fact are the only channels through which
+they can learn any thing of the disposition of the Emperor in the
+present state of the country. To-day's is as follows:--
+
+"Brazilians!
+
+"On not a few occasions have I laid open to you my mind and my heart: on
+the first you will always find engraven constitutional monarchy, on the
+last your happiness. I am now desirous of giving you a fresh assurance
+of my sentiments, and of my detestation of despotism, whether exercised
+by one or by many.
+
+"Some of the municipalities of the northern provinces have given
+instructions to their deputies, in which the spirit of democracy
+predominates. Democracy in Brazil, in this vast empire, is an absurdity;
+and not less absurd is the pretending to give laws to those who are to
+make them, threatening them with the loss or diminution of powers which
+the constituents neither have given nor have power to give.
+
+"In the city of Porto Alegre, the troops and the people, the junta of
+government and the civil and ecclesiastical authorities, have also just
+committed an error, which they have confirmed, or rather aggravated, by
+solemn oath. Troops which ought to obey the monarch holding a council;
+incompetent authorities defining an article of the constitution, which
+is the business of the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly (and
+such is the veto, whether absolute or suspensive);--are most scandalous
+absurdities, and crimes which would merit the severest punishment, but
+for the consideration that they were suggested by ignorance, or produced
+by base deceptions.
+
+"Listen not therefore to those who flatter the people, or to those who
+flatter the monarch: they are equally base, and moved by personal and
+low interests; and under the mask of liberality or that of servility,
+seek alike, only to rear their proud and precarious fortunes on the
+ruins of their country. The times in which we live are full of
+melancholy warnings. Let us use the catastrophes of foreign nations as
+beacons.
+
+"Brazilians! confide in your Emperor and Perpetual Defender, who seeks
+no legal powers; nor will he ever suffer those to be usurped which
+belong to him of right, and which are indispensable in order that you
+may be happy, and that this empire may fulfil the high destinies suited
+to its boundaries of the wide Atlantic, and the proud floods of the
+Plata and the Amazons. Let us await reverently the constitution of the
+empire, and let us hope that it may be worthy of us.
+
+"May the Supreme Disposer of the Universe grant us union and
+tranquillity, strength and constancy; and the great work of our liberty
+and independence will be accomplished.
+
+THE EMPEROR."
+
+9_th August_.--The day on which the Pes de Chumbo predicted an
+insurrection has passed in perfect tranquillity, excepting for one
+melancholy accident. Their Imperial Majesties, as had been appointed,
+went to the Gloria church to return thanks for the Emperor's recovery.
+They were attended by the officers of state, and of the household, and
+as many officers of the different regiments as could attend. While the
+company were all on their knees, and just as the sacring-bell announced
+the elevation of the Host, the Chamberlain, Magalhaens, was struck with
+apoplexy, and died.
+
+12_th_.--This day, as well as yesterday and the day before, there have
+been illuminations and dressed operas on account of the Emperor's
+recovery; and to-night a vessel, prize to the squadron, arrived,
+bringing news of their wellbeing, and of the arrival of many prizes at
+Bahia and Pernambuco. As officers and men from the Imperial ships cannot
+be spared in sufficient numbers to work the prizes into port, Lord
+Cochrane makes sure of their going thither by starting the water,
+excepting what is sufficient for a certain number of days, and cutting
+away the main and mizen masts, so that they must run for the ports to
+leeward. Seamen will appreciate this.
+
+_August 14th_.--I went with M. Plasson, a very intelligent Frenchman, to
+whom I am indebted for a good deal of information about this country, to
+the museum, which I had seen in a hurried way, on my first visit to Rio.
+It is greatly improved since I was here, both externally and internally.
+The minerals of the country form the richest part of the collection. The
+diamonds, both colourless and black, surpass any thing I have seen; but
+I believe the crystals of gold to be the most precious articles here:
+there are several pieces of native gold, weighing three or four ounces;
+and some beautiful specimens of silver, as fine and as delicate as a
+lady's aigrette. I confess that the fine coloured copper, and the
+beautiful grained iron, pleased me as well as most things: some of the
+latter specimens yield 99 parts of iron. These are from the mines of St.
+Paul's, and I was shown some specimens of coal, as fine as Scotch coal,
+that has been recently discovered in the immediate neighbourhood of
+those very mines. The amethysts, topazes, quartzes of all colours, are
+innumerable: there are beautiful jaspers with veins of gold, and all
+manner of gorgeous works of nature, fit for Aladdin's cave, and the
+insects, especially the butterflies, fit to flit about in it. But the
+other branches of natural history are not rich here. Of birds there are
+few of note, beyond a splendid set of toucans; and of quadrupeds, a few
+monkies, two fawns like the roe-deer[117], and some very curious
+armadillos, are all I remember. The collection of Indian weapons and
+dresses is incomplete, and wants arrangement: this is a pity; for
+by-and-by, as the wild natives adopt civilised habits, these will be
+unattainable. The African curiosities are scarcely better kept, but some
+of them are very curious in their kind. One very remarkable one is a
+king's dress made of ox-gut, not in the state _le valliant des cubes_,
+but carefully cleaned and dried, as we do bladders. It is then split
+longitudinally, and the pieces sewed together, each seam being set with
+tufts or rather fringes of purple feathers; so that the vest is light,
+impervious to rain, and highly ornamental from its rich purple stripes.
+There is another entirely of rich Mazarine blue feathers; a sceptre most
+ingeniously wrought of scarlet feathers; and a cap of bark, with a long
+projecting beak in front, and a quantity of coloured feathers and hair
+behind, ornamented with beads. Besides all these things, there is the
+throne of an African prince of wood, beautifully carved. I could wish,
+since the situation of Brazil is so favourable for collecting African
+costume, that there were a room appropriated to these things, as they
+are curious in the history of man.
+
+[Note 117: I have eaten of the venison, and it is like roe-deer.]
+
+_15th_.--The feast of Our Lady of the Assumption, called here Nossa
+Senhora da Gloria, the patroness of the Emperor's eldest child, is
+celebrated to-day, and of course the whole of the royal family attended
+Mass in the morning and evening. I was spending the day with Mrs. May,
+at her pleasant house on the Gloria hill, and we agreed to go in the
+afternoon to see the ceremony. The church is situated on a platform,
+rather more than half way up a steep eminence overlooking the bay. The
+body is an octagon of thirty-two feet diameter; and the choir, of the
+same shape, is twenty-one feet in diameter. We entered among a great
+crowd of persons, and placed ourselves within the choir; and shortly
+afterwards the Imperial party entered, and I was not disagreeably
+surprised at being most pleasantly recognised. The salutation, as this
+evening's service is called, was well performed as to music, and very
+short: after it, for the first time, I heard a Portuguese sermon. It was
+of course occasional. The text, 1 Kings, chap. ii. ver. 19.--"And the
+king rose up to meet his mother, and bowed himself unto her, and sat
+down on his throne, and caused a seat to be set for the "king's mother,
+and she sat on his right hand." The application of this text to the
+legend of the Assumption is obvious, and occupied the first division of
+the discourse. The second part consisted in an application of the
+history of the early part of Solomon's reign to the present
+circumstances of Brazil; the restoration of the kingdom, the triumph
+over faction, and the institution of laws, forming the grounds of
+comparison. The whole people of Brazil were called upon to join in
+thanksgiving and prayers to the Virgin of Glory: thanksgiving that she
+had given to her people, as rulers, the descendants of the Emanuels, the
+Johns, and the Henrys of Portugal, and of the Maria Theresas of Austria;
+and prayers that she would continue her gracious protection, and that
+most especially to the eldest hope of Brazil, named after her and
+dedicated to her. The whole was gravely and properly done, with as
+little of the appearance of flattery to the illustrious persons present
+as possible, and did not last above fifteen minutes. On this occasion,
+the veadors, and other persons attendant on the Imperial family, wore
+white silk surplices, and bore torches in their hands.
+
+I went in the evening to a ball and concert at the Baronesa de Campos:
+on entering, I was met by the young ladies of the family, and led up to
+their grandmother; and after paying my compliments to her, I was placed
+among the division of the family where I had most acquaintance. There
+were only two Englishwomen besides Lady Cochrane and myself, and these
+were the wives of the consul and the commissioner for the slave
+business. A foreign gentleman present remarked, that though we were but
+four, we hardly conversed together. This was perfectly true: I like,
+when I am in foreign society, to talk to foreigners; and think it
+neither wise nor civil to form coteries with those of one's own nation
+in such cases. Several rooms were open, for cards; the stakes, I fancy,
+were high. The tea-room was no sooner full, than tea was handed round;
+and I perceived that some of the older servants, with great respect
+indeed, spoke to such of the guests as they were acquainted with. After
+tea, I had the pleasure of again hearing Dona Rosa sing, and almost
+grudged my gayer companions their ball, which broke in upon that "sober
+certainty of waking bliss," which music inspires into all, and
+especially to those who have known sorrow. I am no musician; but sweet
+sounds, especially those of the human voice, whether in speaking or
+singing, have a singular power over me.
+
+After the first dance was over, we walked all about the house, and found
+a magnificent dining-room as to size, but scarcely furnished to
+correspond with the rest of the house; the bed-rooms and dressing-rooms
+of the ladies are neat and elegantly fitted up with English and French
+furniture; and all as different as possible from the houses I saw in
+Bahia. I am told that they are likewise as different from what they were
+here twenty years since, and can well believe it; even during the twelve
+months of my absence from Rio, I see a wonderful polishing has taken
+place, and every thing is gaining an European air.
+
+I took the liberty of remarking to one of the ladies, the extreme youth
+of some of the children who accompanied their mothers this evening; and
+saying, that in England we should consider it injurious to them in all
+respects. She asked me what we did with them. I told her that some of
+them would be in bed, and others with their nurses and governesses. She
+said we were happy in that: but that here, there were no such persons,
+and that the children would be left to the care and example of the
+slaves, whose manners were so depraved, and practices so immoral, that
+it must be the destruction of the children; and that those who loved
+their children must keep them under their own eyes, where, if they were
+brought too forward in company, they at least could learn no ill. I love
+to collect these proofs of the evils of slavery--even here where it
+exists in a milder form than in most countries.--I left the dancers
+busily engaged at twelve o'clock, and I heard that they continued the
+ball until three. There is no peculiarity in the dancing here; the
+ladies of Rio being like ourselves, the pupils of the French, in that
+branch of the fine arts.
+
+_19th_.--Sir T. Hardy gave a ball and supper to English, French, and
+Brazilians: where every thing was handsome, and well-ordered; and every
+body pleased.
+
+_20th_.--I had long wished to see a little more of the neighbourhood of
+Rio than I have hitherto done; and had resolved on riding at least to
+Santa Cruz, about fourteen leagues from hence, and as the road is too
+well travelled to fear extraordinary accidents, and I am not timid as to
+common inconveniences, I had determined to hire a black attendant and go
+alone. This determination, however, was over-ruled by Mr. and Mrs. May,
+whose brother, Mr. Dampier, kindly offered to escort me. I confess I was
+very glad to be relieved of the absolute charge of myself, and not a
+little pleased to have the society of a well-bred, intelligent young
+man, whose taste for the picturesque beauties of nature agrees with my
+own.--I think that if there is one decided point in which
+fellow-travellers agree, however different in age, temper, or
+disposition, there may always be peace and pleasant conversation, more
+especially, if, as is our case, they travel on horseback. A difference
+of opinion is so easily evaded by a reference to one's horse, which may
+always go too fast or too slow, or exercise one's tongue or one's whip
+without any offence to one's two-legged companion.--We were well tried
+to-day. I had taken it into my head, that after having postponed our
+journey from week to week on one account or an other, if we did not
+begin it this day we never should go at all: and, therefore, though the
+afternoon was most unpromising, we left Mr. May's at half-past four
+o'clock, that we might reach Campinha, the first stage, to sleep; for,
+alas! these horses are not like my Chilian steeds, that would carry me
+twenty leagues a day without complaining. We mounted then, Mr. Dampier
+on a tall bay horse high in bone, with a brace of pistols buckled round
+him, in a huge straw hat, and a short jacket; I on a little grey horse,
+my boat-cloak over my saddle; otherwise dressed as usual, with a straw
+riding hat, and dark grey habit; and our attendant Antonio, the merriest
+of negroes, on a mule, with Mr. Dampier's portmanteau behind, and my bag
+before him.--We proceeded by the upper part of the town, and along the
+well-trodden road to San Cristovaŏ, and after crossing the little hill
+to the left of the palace, entered on a country quite new to me. From
+the western side of the entrance to Rio Janeiro, a high mountainous
+ridge extends close to the sea, as far as the Bay of Angra dos Reyes,
+formed by Ilha Grande and Marambaya. On the northern side of this ridge
+there is a plain, here and there varied by low hills, extending quite to
+the most inland part of Rio de Janeiro, and reaching in a winding
+direction to the bay of Angra dos Reyes: itself having probably at no
+very remote period been covered with water, connecting these two bays,
+and insulating the mountains above mentioned. Along this plain our road
+lay between grand scenery on the one hand, and soft and beautiful
+landscape on the other; but to-night all was dark and louring; the tops
+of the mountains were wrapped in mists, that rushed impetuously down
+their sides, or through their clefts, and every now and then a hollow
+sound of wind came from out of them, though the blast did not quite
+reach us. Under this sort of cloud we passed the picturesque Pedragulha,
+and the little port of Benefica, formed by a creek of the Rio. By the
+time we reached Praya Pequena, where a good deal of produce is embarked
+for the city, the clouds had closed dully in, and the grand mountain
+mists had lost their character. Still we went on, leaving the bay
+entirely: and first we passed the Venda Grande, where every necessary
+for horse or man travelling, is to be sold; then the Capon do Bispo, a
+pretty village, which the rain clouds made me long to stop at; and then
+the stone bridge of Rio de Ferreira, where the rain at length began to
+fall in large cold drops; then tremendous gusts of wind came out of the
+mountain gaps, and long before we reached the Casca d'ouro, the
+protection of cloaks and umbrellas had ceased to avail. There we might
+have stopped; but having been told that the Venda of Campinha was the
+best resting-place, we resolved to proceed, and with some pains
+prevailed on my horse to go on: we reached the venda. But if it be
+delightful, after a long wet ride in a dark and boisterous night, to
+arrive at a place of rest, it is at least as wretched to be turned from
+the door where you hope to find shelter, with dripping clothes and
+shivering limbs; yet such was our fate. There was nothing at the venda
+to eat, no place for us, none for our horses, and so we set out again to
+brave the pitiless storm; a few yards, however, brought us to a low
+cottage on the road side, and there we knocked. A mulatto serving-man
+came round cautiously to reconnoitre from the back of the house, when
+having ascertained that we really were English travellers benighted and
+wet, the front door was opened, and we found within a middle-aged very
+kind-looking woman, and her little daughter; her name is Maria Rosa
+d'Acunha. Her husband and son were absent on business, and she and the
+little girl were alone. As soon as we had changed our wet clothes, and
+had provided for the horses, which our hostess put into an empty
+building, she gave us warm coffee, bread and cheese, and extended her
+hospitable care to the negro. She gave Mr. Dampier her son's bed, and
+made up a couch for me in the room where she and the child slept. These
+people are of the poorest class of farmers, not possessing above four or
+five slaves, and working hard themselves. They appear happy however, and
+I am sure are very hospitable.
+
+_21st_.--This morning looked at least as threatening as yesterday, but
+we determined to go as far as the Engenho dos Affonsos, for whose owner,
+Senhor Joam Marcus Vieira, we had letters from a friend in town.
+Accordingly we took leave of our kind hostess, who had made coffee early
+for us, and proceeded along a league of very pretty road to the
+Affonsos. Where that estate joins Campinha there is a large tiled shed
+where we found a party of travellers, apparently from the mines, drying
+their clothes and baggage after the last night's storm. A priest, and
+two or three men apparently above the common, appeared to be the masters
+of the party; the baggage was piled up on one side of the shed, and the
+arms were stuck into the cordage which bound it. There was a great fire
+in the middle, where a negro was boiling coffee, and several persons
+round drying clothes. Generally speaking, the men we met on their way
+from the mines are a fine, handsome race, lightly and actively made.
+Their dress is very picturesque. It consists of an oval cloak, lined and
+bordered with some bright colour such as rose or apple green, worn as
+the Spanish Americans wear the poncho. The sides are often turned up
+over the shoulders, and display a bright coloured jacket below. The
+breeches are loose, and reach to the knee, and loose boots of brown
+leather are frequently seen on the better sort, though it is very common
+to see the spurs upon the naked heel, and no boot or shoe of any kind.
+The higher classes have generally handsome pistols or great knives, the
+others content themselves with a good cudgel. A short league from the
+last house of Campinha, brought us to Affonsos, where we presented our
+letter, and were most kindly welcomed.--The estate belongs in fact to
+the grandmother of Senhor Joaŏ Marcus, who is a native of St.
+Catherine's, and a widow. His mother, and sister, and brother, and two
+dumb cousins also reside here, but he is only an occasional visitor,
+being married, and living near his wife's family. The dumb ladies, no
+longer young, are very interesting; they are extremely intelligent,
+understanding most things said in Portuguese by the motion of the lips,
+so that their cousin spoke in French, when he wished to say any thing of
+them; they make themselves understood by signs, many of which, I may say
+most, would be perfectly intelligible to the pupils of Sicard or
+Braidwood. They are part of a family of eight children, four of whom are
+dumb, the dumb and the speakers being born alternately. One of them made
+breakfast for us, which consisted of coffee, and various kinds of bread
+and butter.
+
+After breakfast, as the day continued cold and showery, we were easily
+prevailed on by our host to remain all day at Affonsos. I was indeed
+glad of the opportunity of spending a whole day with a country family.
+The first place we visited after breakfast was the sugar-mill, which is
+worked by mules. The machinery is rather coarse, but seems to answer its
+purpose.
+
+The estate employs 200 oxen and 180 slaves as labourers, besides those
+for the service of the family. The produce is somewhere about 3000
+arobas of sugar, and 70 pipes of spirits. The lands extend from Tapera,
+the place where we met the travellers, and where 200 years ago there was
+an aldea of reclaimed Indians, about a league to Piraquara. There are
+about forty white tenants who keep vendas, and other useful shops on the
+borders of the estate near the roads, and exercise the more necessary
+handicrafts. But a small portion of the estate is in actual cultivation,
+the rest being covered with its native woods; but these are valuable as
+fuel for the sugar-furnaces, and timber for machinery, and occasionally
+for sale. The owners of estates prefer hiring either free blacks, or
+negroes let out by their masters[118], to send into the woods, on
+account of the numerous accidents that happen in felling the trees,
+particularly in steep situations. The death of an estate negro is the
+loss of his value, of a hired negro, only that of a small fine; and of a
+free black, it is often the saving even of his wages, if he has no son
+to claim them.
+
+[Note 118: The wages from a patac and half to two patacs per day,
+besides food.]
+
+Wheat does not grow in this part of Brazil, though in the southern and
+inland mountainous districts it thrives admirably. The luxury of wheaten
+bread is introduced everywhere, North America furnishing the flour.
+Wherever one travels in this neighbourhood, one is sure of excellent
+rusk at every venda, though soft bread is rare.
+
+The sugar-canes are planted here during the months of March, April, May,
+and even June and July. In the ridges between them maize and
+kidney-beans are planted, the cultivation of which is favourable to the
+sugar-cane: first the beans are gathered in, when the ground is weeded,
+and cleared, and loosened around the roots of the canes; then the maize
+is pulled, when a second weeding and clearing takes place; after which
+the sugar is tall enough to shade the ground, and prevent the growth of
+weeds. The first canes are ripe about May. The Cayenne cane yields best,
+and thrives in low grounds, the soil a mixture of sand and loam. The
+Creole cane takes the hill, and, though less productive, is supposed to
+yield sugar of a better quality. The cool months from May to September
+are the properest for boiling sugar. After October, the canes yield less
+juice by one-eighth, sometimes by one-fourth, and nearly as much more
+is lost in claying by the lightness of the sugar, the pots of three
+arobas not returning after the operation more than two and a half at
+most. The clay used in refining the sugar is dug close to the mill; it
+feels soft and fat in the fingers. It is placed in a wooden trough, with
+a quantity of lie made by steeping the twigs of a small shrub, which has
+a taste of soda[119], and worked up and down with a machine, something
+like a churn-staff, until it is of the consistence of thick cream, when
+it is ready for use. I suppose that the main business of expressing the
+juice, boiling it, and drying the sugars, as well as cleansing them, are
+carried on here as in every part of the world, though probably there may
+be some difference in every country, or even in every sugar-work; nor
+can the distilling the spirits be very different. Nothing is wasted in a
+sugar-house; the trash that remains after the canes are pressed, when
+dried, assists as fuel in heating the furnaces; the sweet refuse water
+that runs off from the still is eagerly drank by the oxen, who always
+seem to fatten on it.
+
+[Note 119: This is brought to the Engenhos of the district from the
+lake of Jacarepagua. I had no opportunity of seeing the whole plant.]
+
+By the time we had examined the sugar-work, and seen the garden, it was
+two o'clock, and we were summoned to dinner. Every thing was excellent
+in its kind, with only a little more garlic than is used in English
+cookery. On the side-table there was a large dish of dry farinha, which
+the elder part of the family called for and used instead of bread. I
+preferred the dish of farinha moistened with broth, not unlike brose,
+which was presented along with the bouillie and sliced saussage after
+the soup. The mutton was from the estate, small and very sweet. Every
+thing was served up on English blue and white ware. The table-cloths and
+napkins were of cotton diaper, and there was a good deal of plate used,
+but not displayed. After dinner some of the family retired to the
+siesta; others occupied themselves in embroidery, which is very
+beautiful, and the rest in the business of the house, and governing the
+female in-door slaves, who have been mostly born on the estate, and
+brought up in their mistress's house. I saw children of all ages and
+colours running about, who seemed to be as tenderly treated as if they
+had been of the family. Slavery under these circumstances is much
+alleviated, and more like that of the patriarchal times, where the
+purchased servant became to all intents one of the family. The great
+evil is, that though perhaps masters may not treat their slaves ill,
+they have the power of doing so; and the slave is subject to the worst
+of contingent evils, namely, the caprice of a half-educated, or it may
+be an ill-educated master. Were all slaves as well off as the house
+slaves of Affonsos, where the family is constantly resident, and nothing
+trusted to others, the state of the individuals might be compared with
+advantage to that of free servants. But the best is impossible, and the
+worst but too probable; since the unchecked power of a fallible being
+may exercise itself without censure on its slaves.
+
+One of the dumb ladies made tea, and afterwards we passed a couple of
+hours at a round game of cards, where the sisters felt themselves quite
+on an equality with the speakers, and enjoyed themselves accordingly. I
+remember an account given by Bishop Burnet in his Travels, of a dumb
+lady who had invented a way of communicating with her sister, even in
+the dark, before the instruction of such unfortunate persons had become
+an object of public attention. Some such method these ladies possess of
+discoursing together, and of making themselves understood by their young
+cousin, an intelligent girl, who is always at hand to interpret for
+them. They have also invented arbitrary signs for the names of the
+flowers and plants in their garden, which signs all the family know; and
+I was delighted with the quickness and precision with which they
+conversed on every subject within their knowledge.
+
+The cards made way for the supper, a meal almost as ceremonious, and
+quite as constant, as the dinner. After it, toasted cheese was
+introduced, with girdle cakes of farinha freshly toasted, and spread
+with a very little Irish butter; they are the same as the Casava bread
+of the West Indies, but prepared here are more like Scotch oat-cakes.
+On retiring to my room at night, a handsome young slave entered, with a
+large brass pan of tepid water, and a fringed towel over her arm, and
+offered to wash my feet. She seemed disappointed when I told her I never
+suffered any body to do that for me, or to assist me in undressing at
+any time. In the morning she returned, and removing the foot bath,
+brought fresh towels, and a large embossed silver basin and ewer, with
+plenty of tepid water; which she left without saying a word, and told
+her mistress I was a very quiet person, and, she supposed, liked nobody
+but my own people, so she would not disturb me.
+
+_Friday, August 22d_.--The day as fine as possible; and after breakfast
+we pursued our journey to Santa Cruz, the road improving in beauty as we
+proceeded.
+
+    "Here lofty trees to ancient song unknown,
+    The noble sons of potent heat, and floods
+    Prone rushing from the clouds, rear'd high to heav'n
+    Their thorny stems, and broad around them threw
+    Meridian gloom."
+
+And above all these the mountains rose in the distance, and lower hills
+more near, between which, long valleys stretched themselves till the eye
+could follow them no farther; and the foregrounds were filled up with
+gigantic aloes, streams, and pools, and groups of passing cattle and
+their picturesquely clad conductors. Near Campo Grande, the scenery is
+diversified by several little green plains, with only an insulated tree
+here and there, decorated with air plants in bloom, and scarlet
+creepers. Beyond this lies one of the most beautiful spots I ever saw,
+namely, Viaga; where the rocks, trees, plains, and buildings, seem all
+placed on purpose to be admired. Having loitered a little to admire it,
+we rode on to the New Freguezia of Sant Antonio, where we stopped at a
+very neat venda to rest and feed our horses. The church is on a little
+hill, overlooking a very pretty country and a neat village, but the
+greater part of the parish is very distant. While the horses were eating
+their maize, we procured for ourselves some rusk, cheese from the
+province of Minas exactly like Scotch kebbuck, and port wine from the
+cask of excellent quality. These provisions are always to be had, with
+beans, bacon, and dried beef. But the hospitality of a Brazilian inn
+does not extend to cooking food for travellers, who generally carry the
+utensils for that purpose with them, and who in some shed attached to
+the inn cook for themselves, and generally sleep in the same shed. At
+Sant Antonio there are decent sleeping-rooms provided with benches and
+mats, to which the guests add what bedding they please; but travellers
+commonly wrap themselves in their cloaks, and so rest. As soon as our
+horses were ready, we rode on to Mata Paciencia, the engenho of Dona
+Mariana, the eldest daughter of the Baroness de Campos, and to whom we
+had a letter of introduction. Here we met with a most polite reception
+from a handsome ladylike woman, whom we found attending to her engenho,
+which is indeed an interesting one. We were received at first by the
+chaplain, a polite and well-informed person; and with him was the
+chaplain of Santa Cruz, who having been formerly a professor in the
+college at Rio, is commonly known by the name of the Padre Mestre.
+
+Dona Mariana led us into the engenho, where we had seats placed near the
+rollers, which are worked by an eight-horse power steam-engine, one of
+the first, if not the very first, erected in Brazil. There are here 200
+slaves, and as many oxen, in constant employ. The steam-engine, besides
+the rollers in the sugar-house, moves several saws; so that she has the
+advantage of having her timber prepared almost without expense. While we
+were sitting by the machine, Dona Mariana desired the women, who were
+supplying the canes, to sing, and they began at first with some of their
+own wild African airs, with words adopted at the moment to suit the
+occasion. She then told them to sing their hymns to the Virgin; when,
+regularly in tune and time, and with some sweet voices, the evening and
+other hymns were sung; and we accompanied Dona Mariana into the house,
+where we found that while we had been occupied in looking at the
+machinery, the boilers, and the distillery, dinner had been prepared for
+us, though it was long after the family hour. On our departure, we were
+hospitably pressed to return on our way back to Rio, which we, "nothing
+loath," promised to do.
+
+It was quite dark long before we reached Santa Cruz, and exceedingly
+cold: when there, we easily found the house of the gentleman to whom we
+had a letter of introduction, the Capitaŏ de Fragata Joam da Cruz de
+Reis, who is the superintendant of the palace and estate. The Visconde
+do Rio Seco had kindly furnished us with this letter, and mentioned that
+the object of the journey was mere curiosity, so that the Capitaŏ told
+us that he would next day do all he could to satisfy us. Soon after our
+arrival, several persons dropped in to converse half an hour; among the
+rest, a surgeon, who comes from Rio once a year to vaccinate the
+children born in the twelve-months on the estate. The Padre Mestre and
+another friar also came in; and I soon found that Santa Cruz has its
+politics and gossip as well as the city, all the difference being in a
+little more or less refinement. Nothing can exceed the good-humoured
+hospitality of our host and hostess, who soon made us feel quite at
+home; and by the time tea was over, we were quite initiated into all the
+ways of the house and the village.
+
+_Saturday, 23d_.--The morning was excessively cold but clear, and the
+view of the extensive plains of Santa Cruz, with the herds of cattle
+upon it, most magnificent. The pasture, which extends many leagues on
+each side of the little hill on which the palace and village are
+situated, is here and there varied by clumps of natural wood; the
+horizon extends to the sea in one direction, and every where else the
+view is bounded by mountains or woody hills. The palace itself occupies
+the site of the old Jesuits' college. Three sides are modern: the fourth
+contains the handsome chapel of the very reverend fathers, and a few
+tolerable apartments. The new part was built for King John VI., but the
+works were stopped on his departure. The apartments are handsome, and
+comfortably furnished. In this climate hangings, whether of paper or
+silk, are liable to speedy decay from damp and insects. The walls are
+therefore washed with a rich creamy white clay, called Taboa
+Tinga[120], and cornices and borders painted on them in distemper. Some
+of these are exceedingly beautiful in design, and generally very well
+executed, the arabesques of the friezes being composed of the fruits,
+flowers, birds, and insects of the country. One of the rooms represents
+a pavilion; and between the open pilasters, the scenery round Santa Cruz
+is painted, not well indeed, but the room is pleasant and cheerful. The
+artists employed were chiefly mulattoes and creole negroes.
+
+[Note 120: Taboa tinga, a very fine white clay, proper for making
+porcelain, very abundant in Brazil, and, as far as I can judge, the same
+as is found in the valleys of Chile.]
+
+After breakfast, we rode along the causeway that crosses the plain of
+Santa Cruz, to the Indian aldea of San Francisco Xavier de Itaguahy,
+commonly called Taguahy, formed by the Jesuits not very long before
+their expulsion. The situation of the aldea and church is extremely
+fine; on the summit of a hill overlooking a rich plain, watered by a
+navigable river, and surrounded by mountains. We entered several of the
+huts of the Indians, whom I had understood to be of the Guaranee nation.
+I enquired of one of the women, in whose hut I sat down, if she knew
+whence her tribe came: she said no; she had been brought, when a mere
+child, from a great distance to Taguahy, by the fathers of the company;
+that her husband had died when she was young; that she and her daughters
+had always lived there; but her sons and grandsons, after the fathers of
+the company went, had returned to their fathers, by which she meant that
+they had resumed their savage life. This is not surprising. The Indians
+here must work for others, and become servants; a state they hardly
+distinguish from slavery. Besides, slaves are plentiful; and as the
+negro is hardier than the Indian, his labour is more profitable;
+therefore, a willing Indian does not always find a master. The produce
+of his little garden, or his fishing, is rarely sufficient for his
+family; and without the protection of the priest, whose chief favour was
+procuring constant occupation, the half-reclaimed savage droops, and
+flies again to the liberty of his forest, to his unrestrained hunting
+and fishing. The Chilian Indians rarely or never return to their forests
+when their villages are once formed; but that depends on circumstances,
+which have nothing in common with the state of Brazil. Many of the
+Indian women have married the creole Portuguese; intermarriages between
+creole women and Indian men are more rare. The children of such couples
+are prettier, and appear to me to be more intelligent, than the pure
+race of either. The Indian huts at Taguahy are very poor; barely
+sufficient in walls and roof to keep out the weather, and furnished with
+little besides hammocks and cooking utensils; yet we were every where
+asked to go in and sit down: all the floors were cleanly swept, and a
+log of wood or a rude stool was generally to be found for a seat for the
+stranger, the people themselves squatting on the ground.
+
+At the foot of the hill of Taguahy there is a very fine ingenho, sold by
+King Joam VI. to one de Barros; the rollers are worked by a horizontal
+water-wheel about twenty-two feet in diameter, turned by the little
+stream Taguahy. The quantity of sugar made in a given time is something
+more than that produced by the steam-engine at Mata Paciencia, the
+number of slaves employed being the same.
+
+After we had admired the neatness of the engenho and the beauty of the
+situation sufficiently, we left Taguahy to return to Santa Cruz, and
+re-crossed the river Guandu, where there is a guard-house by the bridge,
+where passes from the police are required from ordinary travellers; but
+as we had a servant from Santa Cruz with us, we were not questioned. The
+Guandu rises in the mountain of Marapicu, in the barony of Itanhae; and
+having received the Tingui, it passes to the engenho of Palmares,
+occupied by the Visconde de Merendal; where there is a wharf where the
+produce of the neighbouring estates is embarked, and conveyed to
+Sepetiva, a little port in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, where it is
+shipped for Rio, the passage thither being generally of twenty-four
+hours.
+
+In 1810 there was an intention of uniting the Guandu with the Itaipu by
+a short canal; by which means the produce, not only of this district,
+but of the Ilha Grande, would have been conveyed directly to Rio,
+without the risk of the navigation outside of the harbour: I know not
+why the project was abandoned.
+
+Every time I pass through a grove in Brazil, I see new flowers and
+plants, and a richness of vegetation that seems inexhaustible. To-day I
+saw passion-flowers of colours I never observed before; green, pink,
+scarlet, and blue: wild pine apples, of beautiful crimson and purple:
+wild tea, even more beautiful than the elegant Chinese shrub:
+marsh-palms, and innumerable aquatic plants, new to me: and in every
+little pool, wild-ducks, water-hens, and varieties of storks, were
+wading about in graceful pride. At every step I am inclined to exclaim
+with the minstrel--
+
+    "Oh nature, how in every charm supreme!
+      Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new:
+    Oh, for the voice and fire of seraphim
+      To paint thy glories with devotion due!"
+
+After dinner I walked about a little in the village of the negroes.
+There are, I believe, about fifteen hundred on the estate, the greater
+part of whom belong to the outlying farms or feitorias, of which there
+are, I believe, three; Bom Jardin, Piperi, and Serra: these yield
+coffee, feijoă, and maize. The immediate neighbourhood of Santa Cruz is
+appropriated to the rearing of cattle, of which there are this year
+about four thousand head; and a good deal of pasture land is annually
+let. The negroes of Santa Cruz are not fed and clothed by the Emperor,
+but they have their little portions of land; and they have half of
+Friday, all Saturday and Sunday, and every holiday, to labour for
+themselves; so that they at most work for their master four days, in
+return for their house and land; and some even of the external marks of
+slavery are removed, as the families feed and clothe themselves without
+the master's interference. The Emperor has appropriated great part of a
+very commodious building, erected by his father for the royal stud, to
+the purpose of an hospital. I visited it, and found a white surgeon and
+black assistant; decent beds, and well-ventilated apartments: the
+kitchen was clean, and the broth, which was all I found cooked at the
+time of night when I was there, good: there were about sixty patients,
+most of them merely for sores in their feet, some from giggers, others a
+sort of leprosy from working in damp grounds, and a few with
+elephantiases; fevers are very rare; pulmonary complaints not uncommon.
+Several of the inmates of the hospital were there merely from old age;
+one was insane; and there was a large ward of women, with young
+children: so that, on the whole, I consider the hospital as affording a
+proof of the healthiness of the negroes of Santa Cruz.
+
+_Sunday, 24th_, presented a very respectable congregation on its way to
+the chapel of Santa Cruz. There were all the officers belonging to the
+palace, with their wives and families; also the shopkeepers of the
+village and neighbourhood, besides a good many of the negro people; all
+of them, I think, better dressed than persons of the same class
+elsewhere in this part of Brazil.
+
+I walked up to the tea-gardens, which occupy many acres of a rocky hill,
+such as I suppose may be the favourite _habitat_ of the plant in China.
+The introduction of the culture of tea into Brazil was a favourite
+project of the King Joam VI., who brought the plants and cultivators at
+great expense from China. The tea produced both here and at the botanic
+gardens is said to be of superior quality; but the quantity is so small,
+as never yet to have afforded the slightest promise of paying the
+expense of culture. Yet the plants are so thriving, that I have no doubt
+they will soon spread of themselves, and probably become as natives. His
+Majesty built Chinese gates and summer-houses to correspond with the
+destination of these gardens; and, placed where they are, among the
+beautiful tea-shrubs, whose dark shining leaves and myrtle-like flowers
+fit them for a parterre, they have no unpleasing effect. The walks are
+bordered on either hand with orange trees and roses, and the garden
+hedge is of a beautiful kind of mimosa; so that the China of Santa Cruz
+forms really a delightful walk. The Emperor, however, who perceives that
+it is more advantageous to sell coffee and buy tea, than to grow it at
+such expense, has discontinued the cultivation.
+
+Our hospitable friends the Capitaŏ and his lady would not allow us to
+leave them till after dinner, having invited several persons to do
+honour to us, and to a sumptuous feast they had prepared, where every
+good thing that can be named was present. However, due honour having
+been done to the table, we took our leave; and at about four o'clock or
+a little earlier set off for Mata Paciencia, where we arrived a little
+before sunset.
+
+On our arrival we went with Dona Mariana and the chaplain into the
+garden, which unites the flower, kitchen-garden, and orchard in one.
+Oranges and roses, cabbage and tobacco, melons and leeks, neighboured
+each other, as if they belonged to the same climate; and all were
+thriving among numbers of weeds, of which the wholesome calliloo and the
+splendid balsam attracted my eye most. A side-door in the garden let us
+into a beautiful field, whither chairs were brought, that we might sit
+and enjoy the freshness of the evening. Overhanging that field there is
+a steep hill, on whose side a great deal of wood has been cleared away,
+and the gardens and coffee plots of the negroes occupy the ground. This
+day--and blessed be the Sabbath!--is the negroes' own: after morning
+Mass they are free to do their own will; and then most of them run to
+the hill to gather their coffee or maize, or prepare the ground for
+these or other vegetables. They were just beginning to return from the
+wood, each with his little basket laden with something of his own,
+something in which the master had no share; and again and again as they
+passed me, and displayed with glistening eye the little treasure, I
+blessed the Sabbath, the day of freedom to the slave. Presently the last
+few stragglers dropped in. The sun by this time was only the tops of the
+hills. The cattle flocked in from the pasture, and lowed impatiently at
+the gate of the corral: we opened it, and passed in with them, and
+crossed the court where the negroes live. All was bustle there: they
+were bargaining with a huckster, who, knowing the proper hour, had
+arrived to buy the fresh-picked coffee. Some sold it thus; others chose
+to keep it and dry it, and then to take the opportunity of one of the
+lady's messengers to town and send it thither, where it sells at a
+higher price. I do not know when I have passed so pleasant an evening.
+
+After supper I had a great deal of conversation with Dona Mariana
+concerning the sugar-work, the cultivation of the cane, and the slaves,
+confirming what I had learnt at Affonsos. She also tells me, as I had
+heard before, that the Creole negroes are less docile and less active
+than the new negroes. I think both facts may be accounted for without
+having recourse to the influence of climate. The new negro has the
+education of the slave-ship and the market, the lash being administered
+to drill him; so that when bought he is docile from fear, active from
+habit. The creole negro is a spoiled child, till he is strong enough to
+work; then, without previous habits of industry, he is expected to be
+industrious, and having eaten, drunk, and run about on terms of familiar
+equality, he is expected to be obedient; and where no moral feelings
+have been cultivated, he is expected to show his gratitude for early
+indulgence by future fidelity. Dona Mariana tells me, that not half the
+negroes born on her estate live to be ten years old. It would be worth
+while to enquire into the cause of this evil, and whether it is general.
+
+I conversed also a good while with the chaplain on the general state of
+the country. He is a native of Pernambuco; of course a staunch
+independent. * * * It is needless to say that every thing in the manner
+of living at Mata Paciencia is not only agreeable but elegant. And if
+the stories of older travellers concerning the country life of the
+Brazilians be true, the change has been most rapid and complete.
+
+_25th August_.--- I was very sorry to leave Mata Paciencia this morning
+when it was time to return; however, the hour came, and we departed for
+Affonsos.
+
+On the road we stopped to make some sketches, and at Campo Grande to
+refresh our horses; and were glad ourselves, as the day was pretty cool,
+to partake of a beef-steak which the good woman of the house cooked
+according to our directions, the first she had ever seen, regretting all
+the time that their own dinner was over, and that there was not time to
+boil or roast for us. But hospitality seems the temper of the country.
+
+On our arrival at Affonsos we were received as old friends, and much
+pressed to stay a couple of days, in order to make excursions to some
+picturesque spots in the neighbourhood, which I would fain have done,
+but my young friend, Mr. Dampier, could not spare the time; so I was
+obliged to content myself with only hearing of the beauties of the lake
+of Jacarepagua, and N.S. da Pena, &c.
+
+26_th._--We left Affonsos by times this morning, and shortly afterwards
+met an original-looking group of travellers. First came rather a
+handsome woman, in a blue joseph and broad black hat, riding astride;
+then three gentlemen in Indian file, all natural Falstaffs, in enormous
+straw hats, and mounted on good well-groomed horses; next followed the
+lady's maid, also astride, with her mistress's portmanteau buckled
+behind her; and behind her the valet, with three leathern bags hanging
+to his saddle by long straps, so as to swing as low as the stirrups, and
+whose size and shape denoted the presence of at least a clean shirt;
+and, lastly, a bare-headed slave with two mules, one laden with baggage
+and provisions, and the other as a relay. They all saluted us gravely
+and courteously as they passed; and I thought I had gotten among some of
+Gil Blas' travellers in the neighbourhood of Oviedo or Astorga, so
+completely did they differ from any thing usual with us.
+
+We stopped, of course, at Campinha, to call on our hospitable hostess,
+Senhora Maria Rosa, and found her at a neighbour's house; whither we
+followed her, and found her surrounded by four of the prettiest women I
+have seen in Brazil. From the veranda, where we sat talking with them
+for some time, we had leisure to admire the country about Campinha,
+which was totally obscured the first time we passed by rain. It is of
+the same beautiful character with the rest we have seen, being
+distinguished by a new mud fort, now building on a little insulated
+knoll, which commands the road through the hills, and by the plain to
+the capital. The want of some such point of defence was felt when Du
+Clerc landed in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, at the beginning of the last
+century, and marched without stop to the city.
+
+After feeding our horses at the very pretty station of Rio Ferreira, we
+proceeded homewards; and arrived at Mr. May's in good time to dinner,
+having had a very pleasant excursion, and, on my part, seeing more of
+Brazil and Brazilians in these few days, passed entirely out of English
+reach, than in all the time I had been here before.
+
+On my arrival at home I found news from Lord Cochrane of the 9th July,
+in latitude 6° S., longitude 32° W.; when half the army, colours,
+ammunition, and stores of Madeira had fallen into his hands, and he was
+in pursuit of the rest, intending afterwards to follow the Joaŏ VI. and
+frigates. Should he be able to separate them, no doubt he will capture
+them; but alone, under his circumstances, against them, so armed and
+manned, I fear it will be impossible.--He has already effected more than
+could have been expected, or perhaps than any commander besides himself
+could have done. He attributes much to the imprudence, or imbecility of
+the enemy, whose plan of saving an army he likens to Sterne's marble
+sheet. However, others are just enough to him, to feel that no faults of
+the enemy's commander lessen his merit, or obscure the courage necessary
+to follow up, attack, and take half at least of a fleet of seventy
+sail,[121] well found and provisioned, and full of veteran troops.
+
+[Note 121: It is now certain that Joaŏ Felix had at least that
+number.]
+
+There is a letter from Lord Cochrane to the magistrates of Pernambuco
+published in the gazette. His Lordship, after mentioning his success,
+and stating his want of seamen, says, "We must have sailors to end the
+war. If Your Excellencies will give 24 milrees bounty, as at Rio de
+Janeiro, drawing on government for the same, you will do a great service
+to the country. I do not say Portuguese sailors, who are enemies; but
+sailors of _any other nation_."
+
+His Lordship mentions farther in his letters to Pernambuco, that his
+reasons for rather following up the transports at first, instead of the
+ships of war, which were the objects he had most at heart, were, lest
+the troops should land, as they had threatened, in some other port of
+Brazil, and commit new hostilities in the empire. And he concludes with
+announcing that he sends several flags taken from the enemy.
+
+_August 29th._--To-day I received a visit from Dona Maria de Jesus, the
+young woman who has lately distinguished herself in the war of the
+Reconcave. Her dress is that of a soldier of one of the Emperor's
+battalions, with the addition of a tartan kilt, which she told me she
+had adopted from a picture representing a highlander, as the most
+feminine military dress. What would the Gordons and MacDonalds say to
+this? The "garb of old Gaul," chosen as a womanish attire!--Her father
+is a Portuguese, named Gonsalvez de Almeida, and possesses a farm on the
+Rio do Pex, in the parish of San José, in the Certaŏ, about forty
+leagues inland from Cachoeira. Her mother was also a Portuguese; yet the
+young woman's features, especially her eyes and forehead, have the
+strongest characteristics of the Indians. Her father has another
+daughter by the same wife; since whose death he has married again, and
+the new wife and the young children have made home not very comfortable
+to Dona Maria de Jesus. The farm of the Rio do Pex is chiefly a cattle
+farm, but the possessor seldom knows or counts his numbers. Senhor
+Gonsalvez, besides his cattle, raises some cotton; but as the Certaŏ is
+sometimes a whole year without rain, the quantity is uncertain. In wet
+years he may sell 400 arobas, at from four to five milrees; in dry
+seasons he can scarcely collect above sixty or seventy arobas, which may
+fetch from six to seven milrees. His farm employs twenty-six slaves.
+
+The women of the interior spin and weave for their household, and they
+also embroider very beautifully. The young women learn the use of
+fire-arms, as their brothers do, either to shoot game or defend
+themselves from the wild Indians.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Dona Maria told me several particulars concerning the country, and more
+concerning her own adventures. It appears, that early in the late war of
+the Reconcave, emissaries had traversed the country in all directions,
+to raise patriot recruits; that one of these had arrived at her father's
+house one day about dinner time; that her father had invited him in, and
+that after their meal he began to talk on the subject of his visit. He
+represented the greatness and the riches of Brazil, and the happiness to
+which it might attain if independent. He set forth the long and
+oppressive tyranny of Portugal; and the meanness of submitting to be
+ruled by so poor and degraded a country. He talked long and eloquently
+of the services Don Pedro had rendered to Brazil; of his virtues, and
+those of the Empress: so that at the last, said the girl, "I felt my
+heart burning in my "breast." Her father, however, had none of her
+enthusiasm of character. He is old, and said he neither could join the
+army himself, nor had he a son to send thither; and as to giving a slave
+for the ranks, what interest had a slave to fight for the independence
+of Brazil? He should wait in patience the result of the war, and be a
+peaceable subject to the winner. Dona Maria stole from home to the house
+of her own sister, who was married, and lived at a little distance. She
+recapitulated the whole of the stranger's discourse, and said she wished
+she was a man, that she might join the patriots. "Nay," said the sister,
+"if I had not a husband and children, for one half of what you say I
+would join the ranks for the Emperor." This was enough. Maria received
+some clothes belonging to her sister's husband to equip her; and as her
+father was then about to go to Cachoeira to dispose of some cottons, she
+resolved to take the opportunity of riding after him, near enough for
+protection in case of accident on the road, and far enough off to escape
+detection. At length being in sight of Cachoeira, she stopped; and going
+off the road, equipped herself in male attire, and entered the town.
+This was on Friday. By Sunday she had managed matters so well, that she
+had entered the regiment of artillery, and had mounted guard. She was
+too slight, however, for that service, and exchanged into the infantry,
+where she now is. She was sent hither, I believe, with despatches, and
+to be presented to the Emperor, who has given her an ensign's
+commission and the order of the cross, the decoration of which he
+himself fixed on her jacket.
+
+She is illiterate, but clever. Her understanding is quick, and her
+perceptions keen. I think, with education she might have been a
+remarkable person. She is not particularly masculine in her appearance,
+and her manners are gentle and cheerful. She has not contracted any
+thing coarse or vulgar in her camp life, and I believe that no
+imputation has ever been substantiated against her modesty. One thing is
+certain, that her sex never was known until her father applied to her
+commanding officer to seek her.
+
+There is nothing very peculiar in her manners at table, excepting that
+she eats farinha with her eggs at breakfast and her fish at dinner,
+instead of bread, and smokes a segar after each meal; but she is very
+temperate.
+
+Sept. 8_th_, 1823.--I went with Mr. Hoste and Mr. Hately, of His
+Majesty's ship Briton, to Praya Grande, to see a party of Botecudo
+Indians, who are now there on a visit. As it is desired to civilise
+these people by every possible means, whenever they manifest a wish to
+visit the neighbourhood of the city, they are always encouraged and
+received kindly, fed to their hearts' content, and given clothes, and
+such trinkets and ornaments as they value. We saw about six men, and ten
+women, with some young children. The faces are rather square, with very
+high cheek-bones, and low contracted foreheads. Some of the young women
+are really pretty, of a light copper-colour, which glows all over when
+they blush; and two of the young men were decidedly handsome, with very
+dark eyes, (the usual colour of the eyes is hazel,) and aquiline noses;
+the rest were so disfigured by the holes cut in their lower lips and
+their ears to receive their barbarous ornaments, that we could scarcely
+tell what they were like. I had understood that the privilege of thus
+beautifying the face was reserved for the men,[122] but the women of
+this party were equally disfigured. We purchased from one of the men a
+mouth-piece, measuring an inch and a half in diameter. The ornaments
+used by these people are pieces of wood perfectly circular, which are
+inserted into the slit of the lip or ear, like a button, and are
+extremely frightful, especially when they are eating. It gives the mouth
+the appearance of an ape's; and the peculiar mumping it occasions is so
+hideously unnatural, that it gives credit to, if it did not originally
+suggest, the stories of their cannibalism.[123] The mouth is still more
+ugly without the lip-piece, the teeth appearing, and saliva running
+through.
+
+[Note 122: See Southy's Brazil, for the manners of the Tupayas. I am
+not sufficiently acquainted with the filiation of the Indian tribes, to
+know what relation the Botecudos bear to the Tupayas.]
+
+[Note 123: Perhaps all the Indians may have been so far cannibals,
+as to taste of the flesh of prisoners taken in battle, or victims
+offered to the gods; but I cannot believe that any ever fed habitually
+on human flesh, for many reasons. But their traducers had their reasons
+for inventing and propagating the most atrocious falsehoods, as a sort
+of excuse for their own barbarity in hunting and making slaves of them.
+These practices, indeed, were so wicked, and so notorious, that in 1537,
+the Dominican Frey Domingos de Becançoo, provincial of the order in
+Mexico, sent Frey Domingos de Menaja to Rome to plead the cause of the
+Indians before Paul III.; who having heard _both sides_, pronounced that
+"The Indians of America are men of rational soul, of the same nature and
+species as all others, capable of the sacraments of the holy church, and
+consequently free by nature, and lords of their own actions."]
+
+When we entered the room where the savages are lodged, most of them were
+lying in mats on the floor; some on their faces, and some on their
+backs. Three of the women were suckling their infants, and these were
+dressed only in coarse cotton petticoats; the rest of the females had
+cotton frocks, the men shirts and trousers, given them on their arrival
+here. As they are usually naked in the woods, their garments seemed to
+sit uneasily on them: their usual motions seemed slow and lazy; but when
+roused, there was a springy activity hardly fitting a human being, in
+all they did. They begged for money; and when we took out a few vintems,
+the women crowded round me, and pinched me gently to attract my
+attention. They had learned a few words of Portuguese, which they
+addressed to us, but discoursed together in their own tongue, which
+seemed like a series of half-articulate sounds.
+
+They had brought some of their bows and arrows with them of the rudest
+construction. The bow is of hard wood, with only two notches for the
+string. The arrows are of cane; some are pointed only with hard wood,
+others with a flat bit of cane tied with bark to the end of the hard
+wood: these arrows are five feet long; and I saw one of them penetrate
+several inches into the trunk of a tree, when shot by an Indian from his
+bow. I purchased one bow and two arrows. Most of these people had their
+hair closely clipped, excepting a tuft on the fore part of the head; and
+the men, who had slit their lips, had also pulled out their beards. The
+two handsome lads had cut their hair; but they had neither cut their
+lips nor pulled their beards. I tried to learn if this was a step
+towards civilisation, or if it was only that they had not reached the
+age when the ceremony of lip-slitting, &c. is practised, the interpreter
+attending them not being able to explain any thing but what concerns
+their commonest wants and actions.
+
+_September 9th._--I took two very fine Brazilian boys, who are about to
+enter the Imperial naval service, to spend the day at the botanical
+garden, which appears in much better order than when I saw it two years
+ago. The hedge-rows of the Bencoolen nut (_Vernilzia Montana_) are
+prodigiously grown: the Norfolk Island pine has shot up like a young
+giant, and I was glad to find many of the indigenous trees had been
+placed here; such as the _Andraguoa_, the nut of which is the strongest
+known purge; the _Cambucá_, whose fruit, as large as a russet apple, has
+the sub-acid taste of the gooseberry, to which its pulp bears a strong
+resemblance; the _Japatec-caba_, whose fruit is scarcely inferior to the
+damascene; and the _Grumachama_, whence a liquor, as good as that from
+cherries, is made: these three last are like laurels, and as beautiful
+as they are useful. I took my young friends to see the powder-mills,
+which are not now at work, being under repair; but they learned the
+manner of making powder, from the first weighing of the ingredients to
+the filling cartridges: and then we had our table spread in a pleasant
+part of the garden, under the shade of a jumbu tree, and made the head
+gardener, a very ingenious Dutchman, partake of our luncheon; which
+being over, he showed us the cinnamon they have barked here, and the
+other specimens of spice: the cloves are very fine, and the cinnamon
+might be so; but the wood they have barked is generally too old, and
+they have not yet the method of stripping the twigs: this I endeavoured
+to explain, as I had seen it practised in Ceylon. The camphor tree grows
+very well here, but I do not know if the gum has ever been collected.
+The two boys were highly delighted with their jaunt, and I not less so.
+Poor things! they are entering on a hard service; and God knows whether
+the two cousins da Costa may not hereafter look back to this day passed
+with a stranger, as a bright "spot of azure in a stormy sky."
+
+_Sept. 13th_.--I rode again to the botanic gardens with Mr. Hoste and
+Mr. Hately. Our chief object this time was the powder-mills. After
+walking round the garden, we proceeded along the valley of the mills;
+and so beautiful and sequestered a place, in the bosom of the mountains,
+was surely never before chosen as a manufactory for so destructive an
+article: I suppose the great command of water for the machinery is the
+chief inducement to fix it here. The powder is mixed by pounding, the
+mortars being of rosewood, and the pestles of the same shod with copper;
+yet the mortar-hoops are iron, which seems to me to be a strange
+oversight. I do not understand these things, however; but the machinery
+interested me: it is extremely simple, and the timber used in the
+construction very beautiful. The principal mill blew up a few months
+since, and is now under repair; so that we had an opportunity of seeing
+the watercourses, dams, wheels, &c., which we could not otherwise have
+enjoyed. We could not learn the relative strength of the powder. I have
+heard, however, that it is good. What I have seen is about as fine in
+grain as what we call priming powder in the navy. While we were walking
+about we were invited into several houses, by the overseers and other
+persons employed in the works, and pressed to eat and drink with great
+hospitality. The greatest liberality to strangers, indeed, exists in all
+public establishments here. For instance, at the botanic garden there is
+a constant nursery of the rare and the useful plants, which are given
+away, on application, to strangers and natives alike; so that not only
+the gardens of Brazil are stocked with the rarer productions of the
+East, but they are carried to different countries in Europe, prepared by
+this cooler climate for their farther transplantation.
+
+_14th_.--I observed on the beach to-day a line of red sandy-looking
+matter, extending all along the shore, and tinging the sea for several
+feet from the edge. At night this red edge became luminous; and I now
+recollect when on the passage to India in 1809, that on observing a
+peculiar luminous appearance of the sea, we took up a bucket of water,
+and on examining it next morning, we observed a similar red grainy
+substance floating in it. It is the first time I have seen it here, and
+I cannot find that any body has paid any attention to it. Perhaps it is
+not worth noticing; but I am so much alone, that I have grown more and
+more alive to all the appearances of inanimate nature. Besides, I must
+make much of the country, as in a few days I have to take up my abode in
+one of the narrow close streets of Rio; and this not from choice. It is
+the custom here, and a very natural and pleasant one it is, for every
+family that can, to live in the country all the summer: so that the
+houses of every kind, in the country, are in great request. The term for
+which that I live in was hired is expired, and I am therefore obliged to
+leave it. My going to town, perhaps, might be avoided, but there are
+some things I shall probably learn more perfectly by living there; and,
+besides, does not Lord Bacon advise that in order to profit much from
+travel, one should not only move from city to city, "but change his
+lodgings from one end and part of the city to another?"
+
+The last fortnight has been extremely foggy, and rather cold; and we
+have had some fierce thunder-storms, that seem almost to rock the
+mountains, and threaten to bring them down upon us.
+
+_16th_.--At length I am fixed in No. 79., Rua dos Pescadores, in the
+first floor of an excellent house, belonging to my kind friend Dr.
+Dickson, who himself inhabits a villa out of town; where he has a farm,
+a garden, a collection of minerals and insects, and all sorts of
+agreeable and profitable things, which he dispenses to others with the
+greatest good-nature. I am obliged to Sir Thomas Hardy for a pleasant
+passage to town from Botafogo, his carriage conveying me, and his boats
+my goods: so in a few hours I have changed my home, and have probably
+taken my leave of all English society, every body has such a dread of
+the heat of the town. However, as I look forward to going to England in
+a few months, perhaps in a few weeks, the more time I have for Brazil
+the better. My private affairs have so occupied me that I have scarcely
+had time to think of the public. Yet in the course of the last week the
+project of the constitution for Brazil, framed by the committee
+appointed, was sent from the Assembly to the Emperor; and yesterday the
+discussion of it, article by article, began in the full assembly.
+
+_17th_.--One advantage has already arisen from my removal into town. I
+have received the very first news of the arrival of a ship from Lisbon
+with commissioners on the part of the King to the Emperor. I find, too,
+that at Lisbon they can publish false news, as well as in some other
+countries in Europe. That city had illuminated in consequence of news
+that Lord Cochrane had been beaten, and the Imperial navy destroyed by
+the Bahia squadron; and this illumination must have taken place just
+about the time that Madeira was evacuating the city, and flying before
+the Imperial Admiral's flag. As to the reception the commissioners are
+to meet with, it is doubtful. Some days since the brig 3° de Maio
+arrived here, having on board Luiz Paolino as successor to Madeira; who,
+finding he could not get into Bahia, came hither, to present, it is
+said, his commission as governor of Bahia to His Imperial Majesty as
+Prince Regent; and it is also said that he was the bearer of some
+letters. But as none of these acknowledged the title, or independence of
+the empire of Brazil, they were not received; and the vessel has
+already sailed on her return to Lisbon. It is believed that the same
+fate will attend the present commissioners, Vieira and his colleague, if
+indeed the ship should not be condemned as a prize. But hitherto of
+course nothing is known.
+
+Another vessel also arrived with intelligence of some moment from Buenos
+Ayres. It appears that the captain of His Majesty's ship Brazen has been
+at variance with the authorities there concerning the old subject of the
+right of boarding vessels, the priority of which the Buenos Ayrians
+claim for their own health-boat. The Commodore means to go thither
+himself on the business, and I have no doubt all will be well and
+reasonably settled.
+
+_18th_.--I went to-day to the public library to ask about some books,
+and am invited to go and use what I like there: the librarians are all
+extremely polite, and the library is open to all persons for six hours
+daily.
+
+I have also walked a great deal about the town, and have again visited
+the arsenals; in which very great improvements have been made and are
+making, particularly building sheds for the workmen. After an English
+arsenal, to be sure, the want of machinery and all the luxuries of
+labour is conspicuous; but the work is well done, and reminds me of that
+I used to see under the old Parsee builder in Bombay. They are laying
+down new ships and repairing old ones. I only wish they could form a
+nursery for seamen, because Brazil must have ships to guard her coasts.
+Fisheries off the Abrolhos, and from St. Catherine's, might perhaps do
+something towards it. From the arsenal I climbed the hill immediately
+overlooking it, where there is the convent of San Bento; where, it is
+said, there is a good library, but it is not accessible to women. The
+situation of the convent is delightful, overlooking both divisions of
+the harbour and the whole town, and the hills many a mile beyond. I am
+not sure whether a cloister or a prison, commanding a fine view, be
+preferable to one without. Whether the gazing on a beautiful scene be in
+itself a pleasure great enough to alleviate confinement; or whether it
+does not increase the longing for liberty in a way analogous to that in
+which a well-remembered air creates a longing, even to death, for the
+home where that air was first heard;--it seems to me as if, once
+imprisoned, I would break every association with liberty, and keep my
+eyes from wandering where my limbs must no longer bear me. However, I do
+suppose some may be, and some have been, happy in a cloister. I cannot
+envy them; I would fain not despise them.
+
+_September 19th_.--Our little English world at Rio is grieving in one
+common mourning for the death of one of the youngest, and certainly the
+loveliest, of our countrywomen here. Beautiful and gay, and the lately
+married and cherished wife of a most worthy man, Mrs. N. died a short
+time after the birth of her first child. She had appeared to be
+recovering well; she relapsed and died. It is one of those events that
+excites sympathy in the hardest, and commiseration in the coldest.
+
+_23d_.--I have been unwell again--but I find that staying at home does
+not cure me; so I went both yesterday and to-day to the library, where a
+pleasant, cool, little cabinet has been assigned to me, where whatever
+book I ask for is brought to me, and where I have pen, ink, and paper
+always placed to make notes. This is a kindness and attention to a woman
+and a stranger that I was hardly prepared for. The library was brought
+hither from Lisbon in 1810, and placed in its present situation, which
+was once the hospital belonging to the Carmelites. That hospital was
+removed to a healthier and more commodious situation, and the rooms,
+admirably adapted to the purpose, received the books, of which there are
+between sixty and seventy thousand volumes. The greater number are books
+of theology and law. There is a great deal of ecclesiastical history,
+and particularly all the Jesuits' accounts of South America. General and
+civil history are not wanting; and there are good editions of the
+classics. There are some fine works on natural history; but, excepting
+these, nothing modern; scarcely a book having been bought for sixty
+years. But a noble addition was made to the establishment by the
+purchase of the Conde de Barca's library; in which there are some
+valuable modern works, and a very fine collection of topographical
+prints of all parts of the world.
+
+I have begun to read diligently every scrap of Brazilian history I can
+find; and I have commenced by a collection of pamphlets, newspapers,
+some MS. letters and proclamations, from the year 1576 to 1757, bound up
+together[124]; some of these tracts Mr. Southey mentions, others he
+probably had not seen, but they contain nothing very material that he
+has not in his history. This morning's study of Brazilian history in the
+original language is one great advantage I derive from my removal into
+town. Besides which, I speak now less English than Portuguese.
+
+[Note 124: To this collection is a printed and engraved title-page,
+as follows: "Noticias Historicas e Militares da America Collegidas por
+Diogo Barboso Machado Abbade da Igreja de Santo Adriano de Sever, e
+Academico da Academia Real. Comprehende do Anno de 1579 até 1757." It
+contains twenty-four pamphlets, &c. The Abbade Machado's name is in
+almost all the historical books I have yet seen in the library. I know
+not how the collection of the author of the Bibliotheca Lusitania became
+part of the royal library.]
+
+_24th_.--Having now received the portrait which Mr. Erle, an ingenious
+young English artist, has been painting of the Senhora Alerez Dona Maria
+de Jesus, I took it to show it to her friend and patron, Jose Bonifacio
+de Andrada e Silva.
+
+I never spend half an hour any where with more pleasure and profit than
+with the ex-minister's family. His lady is of Irish parentage, an
+O'Leary, a most amiable and kind woman, and truly appreciating the worth
+and talent of her husband; and all the nephews and other relations I
+meet there appear superior in education and understanding to the
+generality of persons I see. But it is Jose Bonifacio himself who
+attracts and interests me most. He is a small man, with a thin lively
+countenance; and his manner and conversation at once impress the
+beholder with the idea of that restless activity of mind which
+
+    "O'er-informs its tenement of clay,"
+
+and is but too likely to wear out the body that contains it. The first
+time I saw him in private was after he ceased to be minister, his
+occupations before that time leaving him little leisure for private
+society. I was curious to see the retreat of a public man. I found him
+surrounded by young people and children, some of whom he took on his
+knee and caressed; and I could easily see that he was very popular among
+the small people. To me, as a stranger, he was most ceremoniously yet
+kindly polite, and conversed on all subjects and of all countries. He
+has visited most of those of Europe.
+
+His library is well stored with books in all languages. The collection
+on chemistry and on mining is particularly extensive, and rich in
+Swedish and German authors. These, indeed, are subjects peculiarly
+interesting to Brazil, and have naturally been of first-rate interest to
+him. But his delight is classical literature; and he is himself a poet
+of no mean order. Perhaps my knowledge of Portuguese does not entitle me
+to judge particularly on the vehicle or language of his poetry; but if
+lofty thoughts, new and beautiful combinations, keen sensibility, and a
+love of beauty and of nature, be essential to poetry, the poems he read
+to me to-day have them all. There is one in particular, on the Creation
+of Woman, glowing as the sun under which it was written, and as pure as
+his light. Perhaps it derived some of its merit from his manner of
+reading it, which, though not what is called fine reading, is full of
+character and intelligence.
+
+To-day, Jose Bonifacio gave me a translation from Meleager, which seems
+to me very beautiful. It was written at Lisbon in 1816, and two or three
+copies printed by one of his friends, and the last of these is now
+mine.[125]
+
+[Note 125:
+
+         _Traducçăo_.
+
+    Já do ether fugio ventosa inverno,
+    E da florida primavera a hora
+    Purpurea rio: de verde herva mimosa
+    A Terra denegrida se corôa,
+    Behem os prados já liquido orvalho,
+    Com que medraŏ as plantas, e festejaŏ
+    Os abertos botŏes das novas rosas.
+    Com as asperos sons da frauta rude
+    Folga o Serrano, o Pegureiro folga
+    Com as alvos recentes cabritinhos.
+    Jú sulcaŏ Nantas estendidas ondas;
+    E Favonio innocente as velas boja.
+    As Menades, cubertas as cabeças
+    Da flor d'hera, tres vezes enrolada,
+    Do uvifero Baccho orgias celebraŏ:
+    A Geraçaŏ bovina das abelhas
+    Seus trabalhos completa; j'a produzem
+    Formoso mel; nos favos repousados
+    Candida cera multiplicaŏ. Cantaŏ
+    Por toda a parte as sonorosas aves:
+    Nas ondas o Aleyaŏ, em torna aos tectos
+    Canta a Andorinha; canta o branco Cysne
+    Na ribanceira, e o Rouxinol no bosque.
+    Se pois as plantas ledas reverdecem;
+    Florece a Terra; o Guardador a frauta
+    Tange, e folga co'as maçans folhudas;
+    Se aves gorgeiaŏ; se as abelhas criaŏ;
+    Navegaŏ Nautas; Baccho guia as choros:
+    Porque naŭ cantará tambem o Vate
+    A risonha, a formosa Primavera?
+
+]
+
+Let no one say, 'that he is too miserable for any comfort to reach him.
+I am alone, and a widow, and in a foreign land; my health weak, my
+nerves irritable, and having neither wealth nor rank; forced to receive
+obligations painful and discordant with my former habits and prejudices,
+and often meeting with impertinence from those who take advantage of my
+solitary situation: but I am nevertheless sure that I have more
+_half-hours_, I dare not say _hours_, of true enjoyment, and fewer days
+of real misery, than half of those whom the world accounts happy. And I
+thank God, who gave me the temper to feel grief exquisitely, that he at
+the same time gave me an equal capacity for joy. And it is a joy to find
+minds that can understand and communicate with our own; to meet
+occasionally with persons of similar habits of thinking, and who, when
+the business of life rests a while, seek recreation in the same
+pursuits. This delight I do oftener enjoy than I could have hoped, so
+far from cultivated Europe. One or two of my friends are, indeed, like
+costly jewels, not to be worn every day; but there are several of
+sterling metal that even here disarm the ills of this "working-day
+world" of half their sting.
+
+_Sept. 26th, 1823_.--A marriage in high life engages many of the talkers
+of Rio. A fidalgo, an officer distinguished under Beresford, Don
+Francisco----, whose other name I have forgotten, is fortunate enough to
+have obtained one of the loveliest grand-daughters of the Baroness de
+Campos, _Maria de Loreto_; whose extraordinary likeness to our own
+Princess Charlotte of Wales is such, that I am sure no English person
+can have seen her without being struck with it. Here, no unmarried women
+are allowed to be present at a marriage; but the ceremony is performed
+in the presence of the nearest relations, being married, on both sides.
+The mother of the bride sends notice to court, if she be of rank to do
+so, afterwards to other ladies, according to their degree, of the
+marriage of her daughter. The bride then goes to court; after which the
+ladies visit her, and proceed to congratulate the other members of the
+family. It is said this match is one in which the lawful lord of such
+things, i.e. Master Cupid, has had more to do than he is usually allowed
+to have in Brazil, even since it was independent; and truly a handsomer
+couple will not often be seen. I am glad of it. Surely free choice on
+such an important subject is as much to be desired as on any other. On
+this occasion,
+
+    "The god of love, who stood to spy them,
+    The god of love, who must be nigh them,
+    Pleased and tickled at the sight,
+    Sneezed aloud; and at his right
+    The little loves that waited by,
+    Bow'd and bless'd the augury;"
+
+as my favourite Cowley says; and I hope we shall have more such free
+matches in our free Brazil, where, hitherto, the course of true love is
+apt not to run smooth, that is, if my informants on the subject are in
+the right. Seriously, perhaps there has not hitherto been refinement
+enough for the delicate metaphysical love of Europe; which, because it
+is more rational, more noble, than all others, is less easily turned
+aside into other channels. Grandison or Clarissa could not have been
+written here; but I think ere long we may look for the polish and
+prudent morals of Belinda.
+
+_Sept. 29th_.--I went to the orphan asylum, which is also the foundling
+hospital. The orphan boys are apprenticed at a proper age. The girls
+have a portion of 200 milrees; which, though little, assists in their
+establishment, and is often eked out from other funds. The house is
+exceedingly clean, and so are the beds for the foundling children, only
+three of whom are now in-door nurslings, the rest being placed out in
+the country. Till lately they have died in a proportion frightful
+compared with their numbers.[126] Within little more than nine years,
+10,000 children have been received: these were placed out at nurse, and
+many were never accounted for. Not perhaps that they all died, because
+the temptation of retaining a mulatto child as a slave, would most
+likely secure care of its life; but the white ones had not even this
+chance of safety. Besides, the wages paid for the nursing of each was
+formerly so little, that the poor creatures who received them could
+hardly have afforded them the means of subsistence. A partial amendment
+has taken place, and still greater improvements are about to be made.
+There is a great want of medical treatment. Many of the foundlings are
+placed in the wheel[127], full of disease, fever, or more often a
+dreadful species of itch called sarna, and which is often fatal to them.
+Nay, dead children are also brought, that they may be decently interred.
+
+[Note 126: See the Emperor's speech on the 3d May.]
+
+[Note 127: A wheel or revolving box, like that at a convent, into
+which the infants are put.]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+From the asylum, I crossed the street to the great hospital of the
+Misericordia. It is a fine building, and has plenty of room; but it is
+not in so good a state as might be wished: there are usually four
+hundred patients, and the number of deaths very great; but I could not
+learn the exact proportion. The medical department is in great want of
+reform. The insane ward interested me most of all: it is on the ground
+floor, very cold and damp; and most of those placed in it die speedily
+of consumptive complaints. I found here a contradiction to the vulgar
+opinion, that hydrophobia is not known in Brazil. A poor negro had been
+bitten by a mad dog a month ago; he did not seem very ill till yesterday
+morning, when he was sent here. He was at the grate of his cell as we
+passed him, in a deplorable state: knowing the gentleman who was with
+me, he had hoped he would release him from confinement; this of course
+could not be: he expired a few hours after we saw him. The burial-ground
+of the Misericordia is so much too small as to be exceedingly
+disgusting, and, I should imagine, unwholesome for the neighbourhood. I
+had long wished to do what I have done to-day. I think the more persons
+that show an interest in such establishments the better: it fixes
+attention upon them; and that of itself must do good. Yet my courage had
+hitherto failed, and I owe the excursion of this morning to accident
+rather than design.
+
+I rode this evening to the protestant burial-ground, at the Praya de
+Gamboa. I think it one of the loveliest spots I ever beheld, commanding
+beautiful views every way. It slopes gradually towards the road along
+the shore: at the highest point there is a pretty building, consisting
+of three chambers; one serves as a place of meeting or waiting for the
+clergyman occasionally; one as a repository for the mournful furniture
+of the grave; and the largest, which is between the other two, is
+generally occupied by the body of the dead for the few hours, it may be
+a day and a night, which can in this climate elapse between death and
+burial: in front of this are the various stones, and urns, and vain
+memorials we raise to relieve our own sorrow; and between these and the
+road, some magnificent trees. Three sides of this field are fenced by
+rock or wood. Even Crabbe's fanciful and delicate Jane might have
+thought without pain of sleeping here.[128] In my illness I had often
+felt sorry that I had not seen this ground. I am satisfied now; and if
+my still lingering weakness should lay me here, the very, very few who
+may come to see where their friend lies will feel no disgust at the
+prison-house.
+
+[Note 128: See Tales of the Hall.--The Sisters.]
+
+_30th_.--I called at a very agreeable Brazilian lady's house to-day; and
+saw, for the first time in my life, a regular Brazilian _bas-blue_ in
+the person of Dona Maria Clara: she reads a good deal, especially
+philosophy and politics; she is a tolerable botanist, and draws flowers
+exceedingly well; besides, she is what I think it is Miss Edgeworth
+calls "a fetcher and carrier of bays,"--a useful member of society, who,
+without harming herself or others, circulates the necessary literary
+news, and would be invaluable where new authors want puffing, and new
+poems should have the pretty passages pointed out for the advantage of
+literary misses. Here, alas! such kindly offices are confined to
+comparing the rival passages in the Correiro and the Sentinella, or
+advocating the cause of the editor of the Sylpho or the Tamoyo. But, in
+sober earnest, I was delighted to find such a lady. Without arrogating
+much more than is due to the sex, it may claim some small influence over
+the occupations and amusements of home; and the woman who brings books
+instead of cards or private scandal into the domestic circle, is likely
+to promote a more general cultivation, and a more refined taste, in the
+society to which she belongs.
+
+_October 1st, 1823_.--The court and city are in a state of rejoicing.
+Lord Cochrane has secured Maranham for the Emperor. Once more I break in
+on my own rule, and copy part of his letter to me:--
+
+"Maranham, August 12th, 1823.
+
+"My dear Madam,
+
+"You would receive a few lines from me, dated from off Bahia, and also
+from the latitude of Pernambuco, saying briefly what we were about then.
+And now I have to add, that we followed the Portuguese squadron to the
+fifth degree of north latitude, and until only thirteen sail remained
+together out of seventy of their convoy; and then, judging it better for
+the interests of His Imperial Majesty, I hauled the wind for Maranham;
+and I have the pleasure to tell you, that my plan of adding it to the
+empire has had complete success. I ran in with this ship abreast of
+their forts; and having sent a notice of blockade, and intimated that
+the squadron of Bahia and Imperial forces were off the bar, the
+Portuguese flag was hauled down, and every thing went on without
+bloodshed, just as you could wish. We have found here a Portuguese brig
+of war, a schooner, and eight gun-boats; also sixteen merchant vessels,
+and a good deal of property belonging to Portuguese resident in Lisbon,
+deposited in the custom-house. The brig of war late the Infante Don
+Miguel, now the Maranham, is gone down with Grenfell to summon Para,
+where there is a beautiful newly-launched fifty-gun frigate, which I
+have no doubt but he has got before now. Thus, my dear Madam, on my
+return I shall have the pleasure to acquaint His Imperial Majesty, that
+between the extremities of his empire there exists no enemy either on
+shore or afloat. This will probably be within the sixth month from our
+sailing from Rio, and at this moment is actually the case."
+
+Together with this letter, His Lordship has sent me the public papers
+concerning the taking possession of the place for the Emperor, and the
+officer who brought the despatches has obligingly favoured me with
+farther particulars; so that I believe the following to be a correct
+account, as far as it goes, of the whole.
+
+As soon as it was perceived on board the Pedro Primeiro, by the orders
+given by Lord Cochrane for the course of the ship, that he had resolved
+on going to Maranham, the pilots became uneasy on account of the
+dangerous navigation of the coast, and, as they said, the impossibility
+of entering the harbour in so large a ship. I have often felt that there
+was something very captivating in the word _impossible_. The Admiral,
+however, had better motives, and had skill and knowledge to support his
+perseverance; and so on the 26th of July, he entered the bay of San Luis
+de Maranham, under English colours. Seeing a vessel of war off the
+place, he sent a boat on board; and though some of the sailors
+recognised two of the boat's crew, the officer, Mr. Shepherd, performed
+his part so well, that he obtained all the necessary information; and
+the Admiral then went in with his ship, and anchored under fort San
+Francisco. Thence he sent in the following papers to the city.
+
+     "_Address to the Authorities_.
+
+     "The forces of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, having
+     delivered the city and province of Bahia from the enemies of their
+     independence, I, in conformity to the wishes of His Imperial
+     Majesty, am desirous that the fruitful province of Maranham should
+     enjoy a like freedom. I am now come to offer to the unfortunate
+     inhabitants the protection and assistance necessary against the
+     oppression of foreigners, wishing to accomplish their freedom, and
+     to salute them as brethren and as friends. But should there be any
+     who, from vexatious motives, oppose the liberation of this country,
+     such persons may be assured that the naval and military forces
+     which expelled the Portuguese from the South, are ready to draw the
+     sword in the same just cause: and that sword once drawn, the
+     consequences cannot be doubtful. I beg the principal authorities to
+     make known to me their decisions, in order that, in case of
+     opposition, the consequences may not be imputed to the hasty manner
+     in which I set about the work which I must achieve. God keep Your
+     Excellencies many years!--_On board the Pedro Primeiro, 26th July,
+     1823_.
+
+     "_Proclamation_
+
+     "By His Excellency Lord Cochrane, Admiral and Commander-in-Chief of
+     the naval forces of His Imperial Majesty.
+
+     "The port, river, and island of Maranham, the bay of San José, and
+     roads adjacent, are declared to be in a state of blockade, as long
+     as the Portuguese shall exercise the supreme authority there; and
+     all entrance or departure is strictly prohibited, under those pains
+     and penalties authorised by the law of nations against those who
+     violate the rights of belligerents.--_On board the Pedro Primeiro,
+     26th July, 1823_."
+
+These papers were received by the junta of Provisional Government, at
+whose head was the Bishop. There had previously been some movements in
+favour of independence, but they had been over-ruled by the Portuguese
+troops, of whom there were about 300 in the town. The junta of course
+accepted all Lord Cochrane's proposals; the 1st of August was appointed
+as the day for electing a new government under the empire, and the
+intermediate days for taking the oaths to the Emperor, and for embarking
+the Portuguese troops; a step the more necessary, as they had shown a
+disposition to oppose the Brazilians, and had even insulted Captain
+Crosbie and others as they were landing to settle affairs with the
+government. Besides, they were hourly in expectation of a reinforcement
+of 500 men from Lisbon. Meantime the anchorage under Fort Francisco was
+found inconvenient for so large a ship as the Pedro Primeiro, and the
+Admiral took her round the great shoal which forms the other side of the
+harbour, and anchored her between the Ilha do Medo and the main in
+fifteen fathoms water; where he left her, and returned to the town in
+the sloop of war Pambinha, in which vessel he could lie close to the
+city itself. One of his first steps was to substitute Brazilian for
+Portuguese troops, in all situations where soldiers were absolutely
+necessary to keep order; but he did not admit more than a very limited
+number within the walls. He caused all who had been imprisoned on
+account of their political opinions to be liberated; and he sent notices
+to the independent military commanders of Céara and Piauhy to desist
+from hostilities against Maranham.
+
+On the 27th, Lord Cochrane published the following proclamation:--
+
+"_The High Admiral of Brazil to the Inhabitants of Maranham_.
+
+"The auspicious day is arrived on which the worthy inhabitants of
+Maranham have it in their power to declare at once the independence of
+their country, and their adhesion to, and satisfaction with, their
+patriot monarch, the Emperor Peter I. (son of the august Sovereign Don
+John VI.); under whose protection they enjoy the glorious privileges of
+being free men, of choosing their own constitution, and of making their
+own laws by their representatives assembled to consult on their own
+interests, and in their own country.
+
+"That the glory of such a day should not be darkened by any excess, even
+though proceeding from enthusiasm in the cause we have embraced, must be
+the desire of every honest and thinking citizen. It is not necessary to
+advise such as to their conduct: but, should there be any individuals
+capable of interrupting the public tranquillity on any pretext, let them
+beware! The strictest orders are given for the chastisement of whoever
+shall cause any kind of disorder, according to the degree of the crime.
+To take the necessary oaths, to choose the members of the civil
+government, are acts that should be performed with deliberation: for
+which reason, the first of August is the earliest day which the
+preparation for such solemn ceremonies demands, will permit.--Citizens!
+let us go forward seriously and methodically, without tumult, hurry, or
+confusion; and accomplish the work we have in hand in such a manner as
+shall merit the approbation of His Imperial Majesty, and shall give us
+neither cause for repentance, nor room for amendment. Viva, our Emperor!
+Viva, the independence and constitution of Brazil!--_On board the Pedro
+Primeiro, 27th July, 1823_.
+
+COCHRANE."
+
+On the 28th, the junta of government, the camara of the town, the
+citizens and soldiers, with Captain Crosbie to represent Lord Cochrane,
+who was not well enough to attend, assembled to proclaim the
+independence of Brazil, and to swear allegiance to the Emperor, Don
+Pedro de Alcantara; after which there was a firing of the troops, and
+discharge of artillery, and ringing of bells, as is usual on such
+occasions. The public act of fealty was drawn up, and signed by as many
+as could conveniently do so, and the Brazilian flag was hoisted, a flag
+of truce having been flying from the arrival of the Pedro till then.
+
+The next day the inhabitants proceeded to the choice of their new
+provisional government of the province, which was installed on the 8th
+of August, as had been appointed. The members are, Miguel Ignacio dos
+Santos Freire e Bruce, _President_; Lourenço de Castro Belford,
+_Secretary_; and José Joaquim Vieira Belford.
+
+The first act of the new government was to issue a proclamation to the
+inhabitants of the province of Maranham, congratulating them on being no
+longer a nation of slaves to Portugal, but a free people of the empire
+of Brazil; exhorting them to confidence, fidelity, and tranquillity; and
+concluding with vivas to the Roman Catholic religion; to our
+Constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender Don Pedro I., and his
+dynasty; to the Cortes of Brazil, and the people of Maranham.
+
+The letter of the new government to His Imperial Majesty is dated the
+12th of August, when every thing was finally settled. It begins by
+congratulating him on the happy state of things in general in Brazil. It
+then sets forth the wishes of the people of Maranham to have joined
+their brethren long since, but that these wishes had been thwarted by
+the Lisbon troops.--"But what was our joy and transport when
+unexpectedly we saw the ship Pedro Primeiro summoning our port!!! Oh,
+26th of July, 1823! Thrice happy day! thou wilt be as conspicuous in the
+annals of our province, as the sentiments of gratitude and respect
+inspired by the virtues of the illustrious Admiral sent to our aid by
+the best and most amiable of Monarchs will be deeply engraven on our
+hearts and those of our posterity! Yes, august Sire! the wisdom, the
+prudence, and the gentle manners of Lord Cochrane, have contributed
+still more to the happy issue of our political difficulties, than even
+the fear of his forces, however respectable they might be. To anchor in
+our port; to proclaim independence; to administer the proper oaths of
+obedience to Your Imperial Majesty; to suspend hostilities throughout
+the province; to cause a new government to be elected; to bring the
+troops of the country into the town, and then only in sufficient numbers
+for the public order and tranquillity; to open communication between the
+interior and the capital; to provide it with necessaries; and to restore
+navigation and commerce to their pristine state: all this, SIRE, was the
+work of a few days. Grant, Heaven, that this noble Chief may end the
+glorious career of his political and military labours with the like
+felicity and success; and that Your Imperial Majesty being so well
+served, nothing more may be necessary to immortalise that admirable
+commander, not only in the annals of Brazil, but in those of the whole
+world!"
+
+And this, I think, is all of importance that I have learned with regard
+to the capture of Maranham to-day. It is true, the brig Maria,
+despatched by His Lordship on the 12th of August, only arrived to-day;
+so that much may be behind.
+
+_2d October_.--A friend who was present at the Assembly to-day gives me
+the following account of the debate.--In the first place, the Emperor
+sent notice of Lord Cochrane's success at Maranham; and Martim Francisco
+Ribiero de Andrada rose and proposed a vote of thanks to His Lordship.
+The deputy Montezuma (of Bahia) opposed this, on the ground that he was
+the servant of the executive government, and the government ought to
+thank him. He felt as grateful to Lord Cochrane as any member of the
+Assembly could do, and would do as much to prove his gratitude; but he
+would not vote to thank him there. Dr. França (known by the nickname of
+Franzinho) seconded Montezuma, and said it derogated from the dignity of
+the legislative assembly of the vast, and noble, and rich empire of
+Brazil, to vote thanks to any individual. On which Costa Barros, in a
+speech of eloquence and enthusiasm, maintained the propriety of thanking
+Lord Cochrane. That the triumphal road, as in ancient Rome, did not now
+exist; but the triumph might be granted by the voice of the national
+representatives. The gentleman who thought no thanks should be voted
+was a member for Bahia, and talked of his gratitude. He could tell him,
+that grateful as he (Costa Barros) now felt, were he, like that
+gentleman, a member for Bahia, his gratitude, and his eagerness to
+express it, would be tenfold. Who but Lord Cochrane had delivered Bahia
+from the Portuguese, that swarm of drones that threatened to devour the
+land? But he supposed the greatness of Sen. Montezuma's gratitude was
+such, that it smothered the expression. This produced a laugh, and that
+a challenge, and then a cry of "order, order" (_a ordem_).
+
+Sen. Ribiero de Andrada then said, that as to the observation that had
+fallen from França, that His Lordship had only done his duty, was no man
+to be thanked for doing an important duty? Besides, though the blockade
+of Bahia was a duty, the reduction of Maranham was something more--it
+was undertaken on his own judgment, and at the risk of consequences to
+himself. Sen. Lisboa observed, that as to its being beneath the dignity
+of the Representative Assembly of Brazil to thank an individual, the
+English Parliament scrupled not to thank its naval and military chiefs;
+and could what it did be beneath the Assembly of Brazil? Would to God
+the Assembly might one day emulate the British Parliament!
+
+After this there was more sparring between Montezuma and Costa Barros:
+the former resuming the subject of the challenge; Barros bowing, and
+assuring him he did not refuse it: on which a member on the same side
+observed sarcastically, only half rising as he spoke, that those who
+meant really to fight would hardly speak it aloud in the _General
+Assembly_. This ended the dispute; and the vote of thanks was carried
+with only the voices of Montezuma and França against it; and so passed
+this day's session.
+
+I must say for the people here, that they do seem sensible that in Lord
+Cochrane they have obtained a treasure. * * * * That there are some who
+find fault, and some who envy, is very true. But when was it otherwise?
+Sometimes I cry,
+
+    "O, what a world is this, where what is comely
+    Envenoms him that bears it!"
+
+At others, I take it more easily, and say coolly with the Spaniard,
+
+    "Envy was honour's wife, the wise man said,
+    Ne'er to be parted till the man was dead:"
+
+and neither envy, nor any other injurious feeling, nor all the
+manifestations of them all together, can ever lessen the real merit of
+so great a man.
+
+The acquisition of Maranham is exceedingly important to the empire: it
+is one of the provinces that, from the time of its first settlement, has
+carried on the greatest foreign trade.[129]
+
+[Note 129: See the Appendix.]
+
+_6th_.--We had three days of public rejoicing, on account of the taking
+of Maranham; and on Friday, as I happened to be at the palace to show
+some drawings to the Empress, I perceived that the Emperor's levee was
+unusually crowded. During these few days, though I have been far from
+well, I have improved my acquaintance with my foreign friends; but of
+English I see, and wish to see, very little of any body but Mrs. May.
+
+_9th_.--I resolved to take a holiday: so went to spend it with Mrs. May,
+at the Gloria, only going first for half an hour to the library. That
+library is a great source of comfort to me: I every day find my cabinet
+quiet and cool, and provided with the means of study, and generally
+spend four hours there, reading Portuguese and Brazilian history; for
+which I shall not, probably, have so good an opportunity again.
+
+This day the debate in the Assembly has been most interesting. It is
+some time since, in discussing that part of the proposed constitution,
+which treats of the persons who are to be considered as Brazilians,
+entitled to the protection of the laws of the empire, and amenable to
+those laws, the 8th paragraph of the 5th article was admitted without a
+dissentient voice: it is this--"_All naturalised strangers, whatever be
+their religion_." To-day the 3d paragraph of the 7th article came under
+discussion. This article treats of the individual rights of Brazilians;
+it runs thus--"The constitution guarantees to all Brazilians the
+following individual rights, with the explanations and limitations
+thereafter expressed:--
+
+"I. Personal Freedom.
+II. Trial by Jury.
+III. Religious Freedom.
+IV. Professional Freedom.
+V. Inviolability of Property.
+VI. Liberty of the Press."
+
+The 14th article goes on to state, that all Christians may enjoy the
+political rights of the empire: 15th, "Other religions are hardly
+tolerated, and none but Christians shall enjoy political rights;" and
+the 16th declares the Roman Catholic religion to be that of the state,
+and the only one beneficed by the state.
+
+Now this day's discussion was not merely one of form; but it has
+established toleration in all its extent. A man is at liberty to
+exercise his faith as he pleases, and even to change it: should he,
+indeed, have the folly to turn Turk, he must not vote at elections, nor
+be a member of the Assembly, nor enjoy an office in the state, civil or
+military; but he may sit under his vine and his fig-tree, and exercise
+an honest calling. All Christians are eligible to all offices and
+employments; and I only wish older countries would deign to take lessons
+from this new government in its noble liberality. The Diario of the
+Assembly is so far behind with the reports of the sessions, that I have
+not, of course, a correct account of the speeches; but I believe that I
+am not wrong in attributing to the Bishop the most benevolent and
+enlightened views on this momentous subject, together with that laudable
+attachment to the church of his fathers that belongs to good men of
+every creed.
+
+_October 12th_.--This is the Emperor's birth-day, and the first
+anniversary of the coronation. I was curious to see the court of Brazil;
+so I rose early and dressed myself, and went to the royal chapel, where
+the Emperor and Empress, and the Imperial Princess were to be with the
+court before the drawing-room. I accordingly applied to the chaplain
+for a station, who showed me into what is called the _diplomatic_
+tribune, but it is in fact for respectable foreigners: there I met all
+manner of consuls. However, the curiosity which led me to the chapel
+would not allow me to go home when the said consuls did; so I went to
+the drawing-room, which perhaps, after all, I should not have done,
+being quite alone, had not the gracious manner in which their Imperial
+Majesties saluted me, both in the chapel and afterwards in the corridor
+leading to the royal apartments, induced me to proceed. I reached the
+inner room where the ladies were, just as the Emperor had, with a most
+pleasing compliment, announced to Lady Cochrane that she was Marchioness
+of Maranham; for that he had made her husband Marques, and had conferred
+on him the highest degree of the order of the Cruceiro. I am sometimes
+absent; and now, when I ought to have been most attentive, I felt myself
+in the situation Sancho Pança so humorously describes, of sending my
+wits wool-gathering, and coming home shorn myself: for I was so intent
+on the honour conferred on my friend and countryman; so charmed, that
+for once his services had been appreciated,--that when I found the
+Emperor in the middle of the room, and that his hand was extended
+towards me, and that all others had paid their compliments and passed to
+their places, I forgot I had my glove on, took his Imperial hand with
+that glove, and I suppose kissed it much in earnest, for I saw some of
+the ladies smile before I remembered any thing about it. Had this
+happened with regard to any other prince, I believe that I should have
+run away; but nobody is more good-natured than Don Pedro: I saw there
+was no harm done; and so determining to be on my guard when the Empress
+came in, and then to take an opportunity of telling her of my fault, I
+stayed quietly, and began talking to two or three young ladies who were
+at court for the first time, and had just received their appointment as
+ladies of honour to the Empress.
+
+Her Majesty, who had retired with the young Princess, now came in, and
+the ladies all paid their compliments while the Emperor was busy in the
+presence-chamber receiving the compliments of the Assembly and other
+public bodies. There was little form and no stiffness. Her Imperial
+Majesty conversed easily with every body, only telling us all to speak
+Portuguese, which of course we did. She talked a good deal to me about
+English authors, and especially of the Scotch novels, and very kindly
+helped me in my Portuguese; which, though I now understand, I have few
+opportunities of speaking to cultivated persons. If I have been pleased
+with her before, I was charmed with her now. When the Emperor had
+received the public bodies, he came and led the Empress into the great
+receiving room, and there, both of them standing on the upper step of
+the throne, they had their hands kissed by naval, military, and civil
+officers, and private men; thousands, I should think, thus passed. It
+was curious, but it pleased me, to see some negro officers take the
+small white hand of the Empress in their clumsy black hands, and apply
+their pouting African lips to so delicate a skin; but they looked up to
+_Nosso Emperador_, and to her, with a reverence that seemed to me a
+promise of faith _from them_, a bond of kindness _to_ them. The Emperor
+was dressed in a very rich military uniform, the Empress in a white
+dress embroidered with gold, a corresponding cap with feathers tipped
+with green; and her diamonds were superb, her head-tire and ear-rings
+having in them opals such as I suppose the world does not contain, and
+the brilliants surrounding the Emperor's picture, which she wears, the
+largest I have seen.
+
+I should do wrong not to mention the ladies of the court. My partial
+eyes preferred my pretty countrywoman the new Marchioness; but there
+were the sweet young bride Maria de Loreto, and a number of others of
+most engaging appearance; and then there were the jewels of the
+Baronessa de Campos, and those of the Viscondeça do Rio Seco, only
+inferior to those of the Empress: but I cannot enumerate all the riches,
+or beauty; nor would it entertain my English friends, for whom this
+journal is written, if I could.
+
+When their Imperial Majesties came out of the great room, I saw Madame
+do Rio Seco in earnest conversation with them; and soon I saw her and
+Lady Cochrane kissing hands, and found they had both been appointed
+honorary ladies of the Empress; and then the Viscountess told me she had
+been speaking to the Empress about me. This astonished me, for I had no
+thought of engaging in any thing away from England. Six months before,
+indeed, I had said that I was so pleased with the little Princess, that
+I should like to educate her. This, which I thought no more of at the
+time, was, like every thing in this gossiping place, told to Sir T.
+Hardy: he spoke of it to me, and said he had already mentioned it to a
+friend of mine. I said, that if the Emperor and Empress chose, as a warm
+climate agreed with me, I should not dislike it; that it required
+consideration; and that if I could render myself sufficiently agreeable
+to the Empress, I should ask the appointment of governess to the
+Princess; and so matters stood when Sir Thomas Hardy sailed for Buenos
+Ayres. I own that the more I saw of the Imperial family, the more I
+wished to belong to it; but I was frightened at the thoughts of Rio, by
+the impertinent behaviour of some of the English, so that I should
+probably not have proposed the thing myself. It was done, however: the
+Empress told me to apply to the Emperor. I observed he looked tired with
+the levee, and begged to be allowed to write to her another day. She
+said, "Write if you please, but come and see the Emperor at five o'clock
+to-morrow." And so they went out, and I remained marvelling at the
+chance that had brought me into a situation so unlike any thing I had
+ever contemplated; and came home to write a letter to Her Imperial
+Majesty, and to wonder what I should do next.
+
+_Monday, October 13th._--I wrote my letter to the Empress, and was
+punctual to the time for seeing the Emperor. He received me very kindly,
+and sent me to speak to Her Imperial Majesty, who took my letter, and
+promised me an answer in two days, adding the most obliging expressions
+of personal kindness. And this was certainly the first letter I ever
+wrote on the subject; though my English _friends_ tell me that I had a
+memorial in my hand yesterday, and that I went to court only to deliver
+it, for they saw it in my hand. Now I had a white pocket-handkerchief
+and a black fan in my hand, and thought as little of speaking about my
+own affairs to their Imperial Majesties, as of making a voyage to the
+moon. But people will always know each other's affairs best.
+
+_16th._--I have continued going regularly to the library, and have
+become acquainted with the principal librarian, who is also the
+Emperor's confessor. He is a polished and well-informed man. He showed
+me the Conde da Barca's library, which, as I knew before, had been
+purchased at the price of 15,530,900 rees, and added to the public
+collection. To-day, on returning from my study I received a letter from
+the Empress, written in English, full of kind expressions; and in the
+pleasantest manner accepting, in the Emperor's name and her own, my
+services as governess to her daughter; and giving me leave to go to
+England, before I entered on my employment, as the Princess is still so
+young.
+
+I went to San Cristovaŏ to return thanks.
+
+_19th._--I saw the Empress, who is pleased to allow me to sail for
+England in the packet, the day after to-morrow. I confess I am sorry to
+go before Lord Cochrane's return. I had set my heart on seeing my best
+friend in this country, after his exertions and triumph. But I have now
+put my hand to the plough, and I must not turn back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_October 21st._--I embarked on board the packet for England. Mrs. May
+walked to the shore with me. Sir Murray Maxwell lent me his boats to
+bring myself and goods on board. I had previously taken leave of every
+body I knew, English and foreign.
+
+After I embarked, Mr. Anderson brought me the latest newspapers. The
+following are the principal ones published in Rio:--The DIARIO DA
+ASSEMBLEA, which contains nothing but the proceedings of the Assembly;
+it appears as fast as the short-hand writers can publish it. The
+GOVERNMENT GAZETTE, which has all official articles, appointments, naval
+intelligence, and sometimes a few advertisements. The DIARIO DO RIO,
+which has nothing but advertisements, and ship news, and prices current;
+it used to print a meteorological table. The CORREIRO, a democratic
+journal, which the editor wrote from prison, only occasionally for some
+time, but lately it has been a daily paper. The SENTINELA DA LIBERDAD E
+A BEIRA DO MAR DA PRAYA GRANDE is edited by a Genoese, assisted by one
+of the deputies, and is said to be pure _carbonarism_. The SYLPHO, also
+an occasional paper, moderately ministerial, and engaged in a war of
+words with several others. The ATALAIA, an advocate for limited
+monarchy, whose editor is a deputy of considerable reputation, is
+another occasional paper; as is also the TAMOYO, entirely devoted to the
+Andradas: it is, in my opinion, the best-written of all. The SENTINELA
+DA PAŎN D'ASUCAR is on the same side; its editor formerly published the
+_Regulador_, but this has ceased to appear since the change of ministry.
+The _Espelho_ was a government paper; but the writer has discontinued
+it, having become a member of the Assembly. The _Malaguetta_ was a paper
+whose first number attracted a great deal of attention; it fell off
+afterwards, and ceased on the declaration of the independence of Brazil.
+It was remarkable for its hostility to the Andradas. Indeed the war of
+words the author waged against the family was so virulent, that they
+were suspected of being the instigators of an attempt to assassinate
+him. This they indignantly denied, and satisfactorily disproved; and the
+man being almost maniacal with passion, accused any and every person of
+consequence in the state, and conceived himself, even wounded as he
+was, not safe. In vain did all persons, even the Emperor himself, visit
+him, to reassure him; his terrors continued, and he withdrew himself the
+moment he was sufficiently recovered from his wounds. He was by birth a
+Portuguese, and his strong passions had probably rendered him an object
+of hatred or jealousy to some inferior person, the consequences of which
+his vanity made him attribute to a higher source.--I believe there are
+some other occasional papers, but I have not seen them.
+
+_Oct. 25th_.--Happily for me there are no passengers in the packet, and
+still more happily, the captain's wife and daughter are on board; so
+that I feel as if lodging in a quiet English family, all is so decent,
+orderly, and, above all, clean. I am under no restraint, but walk, read,
+write, and draw, as if at home: every body, even to the monkey on board,
+looks kindly at me; and I receive all manner of friendly attention
+consistent with perfect liberty.
+
+_Nov. 1st_.--"The longest way about is often the nearest, way home,"
+says the proverb; and, on that principle, ships bound for England from
+Brazil at this time of the year stand far to the eastward. We are still
+in the latitude of Rio de Janeiro, though in long. 29° W., and shall
+probably stand still nearer to the coast of Africa, before we shall be
+able to look to the northward. To-day the thermometer is at 75°, the
+temperature of the sea 72°.
+
+_9th_.--Lat. 14° 19' S., long. 24° W., thermometer 74°, sea 74-1/2°.
+
+_17th_.--Lat. 5° N., long. 25° W. For several days the thermometer at
+80°; the temperature of the sea at noon 82°. We spoke the Pambinha, 60
+days from Maranham. She says Lord Cochrane had gone himself to Para,
+whence he meant to proceed directly for Rio; so that he would probably
+be there by this time, as the Pedro Primeiro sails well. I had no
+opportunity of learning more, as the vessel passed hastily.
+
+We have, generally speaking, had hot winds from Africa, and there is a
+sultry feel in the air which the state of the thermometer hardly
+accounts for. I perceive that the sails are all tinged with a reddish
+colour; and wherever a rope has chafed upon them, they appear almost as
+if iron-moulded. This the captain and officers attribute to the wind
+from Africa. They were certainly perfectly white long after we left Rio;
+they have not been either furled or unbent. What may be the nature of
+the dust or sand that thus on the wings of the wind crosses so many
+miles of ocean, and stains the canvass? Can it be this minute dust
+affecting the lungs which makes us breathe as if in the sultry hours
+preceding a thunder-storm?
+
+_Dec. 3d_.--We came in sight of St. Mary's, the eastern island of the
+Azores. I much wished to have touched at some of these isles; but this
+is not a good season for doing so, and the winds we have had have been
+unfavourable for the purpose. This afternoon, though near enough to have
+seen at least the face of the land, the weather was thick and rainy, so
+that we saw nothing.
+
+_18th_.--After passing the Azores, a long succession of gales from the
+north-east kept us off the land. These were succeeded by three fine
+days; and the sea, which had been heavy, became smooth. Early the day
+before yesterday, however, it began to blow very hard from the
+northwest; and yesterday morning it changed to a gale from the south and
+south-west, and we lay-to under storm stay-sails, in a tremendous sea.
+About one o'clock the captain called to me, and desired me to come on
+deck and see what could not last ten minutes, and I might never see
+again. I ran up, as did Mrs. and Miss K----. A sudden shift of wind had
+taken place: we saw it before it came up, driving the sea along
+furiously before it; and the meeting of the two winds broke the sea as
+high as any ship's mast-head in a long line, like the breakers on a reef
+of rocks. It was the most beautiful yet fearful sight I ever beheld; and
+the sea was surging over our little vessel so as to threaten to fill
+her: but the hatches were battoned down; we were lying-to on a right
+tack, and a hawser had been passed round the bits in order to sustain
+the foremast, in case we lost our bowsprit, as we expected to do every
+instant. But in twenty minutes the gale moderated, and we bore up for
+Falmouth, which we reached this morning, having passed the cabin deck
+of a ship that doubtless had foundered in the storm of yesterday.--Once
+more I am in England; and, to use the words of a venerable though
+apocryphal writer, "Here will I make an end. And if I have done well,
+and as is fitting the story, it is that which I desired; but if
+slenderly and meanly, it is that which I could attain unto."[130]
+
+M.G.
+
+[Note 130: 2 Maccabees, chap. XV. ver. 37, 38.]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+It will appear from the following TABLES of the Imports and Exports of
+the Province of Maranham, from 1812 to 1821, of how much importance the
+acquisition of that Province is to the Empire of Brazil. Some other
+Tables are added, which may serve to give a clearer idea of the state of
+the country. The amount of the duties on the importation of Slaves, paid
+by Maranham to the treasury at Rio de Janeiro during those ten years,
+was 30,239 milrees.
+
+Nothing is wanting to the prosperity of that fine Province but a steady
+government, and a regular administration of justice. Without these two
+things, it will be in vain to expect either prosperity or tranquillity.
+The people are multiplying too fast to be managed by the former clumsy
+administration; and their intercourse with the rest of the world has
+taught them to wish for something better.
+
+Although there are veins of metal in Maranham, they have never been
+worked; but some saltpetre-works have been established there. There are
+mineral and medicinal waters in some districts; but I believe they have
+not been analyzed: in short, little attention has hitherto been paid to
+any thing but the woods, and the growth of coffee, cotton, and sugar; in
+all of which Maranham is abundantly rich.
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM, FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.
+(Continued below)
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+COUNTRIES WHENCE IMPORTED.|    1812      |    1813      |    1814      |    1815      |    1816      |
+--------------------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|
+                          |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |
+Brazil                    |  244,506,690 |  284,211,812 |  416,508,747 |  284,418,270 |  271,326,160 |
+Portuguese ports in Africa|  146,817,000 |  181,610,811 |  221,219,843 |  371,238,250 |  408,590,000 |
+Lisbon                    |  167,431,350 |  256,407,277 |  417,018,290 |  458,595,340 |  752,051,810 |
+Oporte                    |   69,103,210 |   74,842,710 |   70,429,900 |   98,399,750 |  173,794,080 |
+England                   |  581,682,700 |  654,891,057 |  696,425,620 |  465,997,240 |  550,217,190 |
+Gibraltar                 |   13,848,800 | ------------ |    3,246,400 | ------------ | -----------  |
+United States             |   49,729,600 | ------------ | ------------ |   12,250,600 |   32,906,840 |
+Western Isles             | ------------ |    2,964,400 | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+France                    | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |   60,662,700 |   55,459,000 |
+Holland                   | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+Spain                     | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+Annual amount             |1,273,119,340 |1,454,927,667 |1,824,848,800 |1,751,563,150 |2,244,245,080 |
+Silk Goods Portuguese     |    8,694,300 |    9,836,200 |    8,880,920 |   11,622,780 |   22,217,900 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    6,601,600 |    6,447,500 |   15,647,400 |   22,720,600 |   18,863,200 |
+Linen Goods Portuguese    |   26,832,100 |   22,170,300 |   19,476,800 |   29,872,200 |   50,266,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |   69,031,100 |  125,357,220 |  172,292,860 |   74,989,100 |  162,170,280 |
+Cotton Goods Portuguese   |    3,085,640 |   10,375,730 |   10,859,000 |   21,273,380 |   54,732,250 |
+  Do.  foreign            |  349,295,440 |  324,792,020 |  316,213,050 |  377,886,820 |  444,593,640 |
+Woolen Cloths Portuguese  | ------------ | ------------ |      198,720 |      272,000 |      774,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |   33,487,300 |   39,377,950 |   43,725,900 |   17,259,300 |   50,546,900 |
+Fine Hats Portuguese      |          946 |        2,292 |        4,400 |        3,402 |        5,419 |
+  Do.  foreign            |        4,228 |        5,140 |        8,795 |        3,193 |        7,422 |
+Coarse Hats Portuguese    |       11,689 |        9,623 |        6,225 |        9,424 |       16,380 |
+  Do.  foreign            |        3,774 |        2,735 |        4,976 |       17,836 |       14,555 |
+Clothes and Shoes         |              |              |              |              |              |
+Portuguese                |    2,465,600 |    1,817,600 |    3,054,600 |    3,346,880 |    2,389,100 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    1,232,000 |      500,000 |    2,200,000 |    1,729,200 |    1,080,800 |
+Movables Portuguese       |    4,494,600 |    3,360,000 |    8,700,000 |   10,600,000 |   18,600,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    1,244,700 |    2,734,000 |    1,120,000 |    1,400,000 |    5,000,000 |
+Portuguese brandy Pipes   |           45 |           48 |          139 |          104 |          220 |
+  Do. and Gin, foreign    |           46 |           11 |           20 |           21 |           38 |
+Portuguese Wines          |          745 |          645 |        1,427 |        1,320 |          761 |
+  Do.  foreign            |          247 | ------------ |           81 |            4 |           55 |
+Wheaten Flour, arrobas    |       10,228 |       26,524 |       18,538 |       25,872 |       21,838 |
+Salt Fish, quintals       |          401 |          252 |          296 |          818 |          938 |
+Butter, arrobas           |        5,785 |        4,628 |        4,220 |        5,198 |        4,625 |
+Cheese, arrobas           |        1,179 |          642 |        1,243 |        1,750 |        2,229 |
+Balance in favour of }    | ------------ |  190,867,692 | ------------ |  325,175,700 |1,090,305,135 |
+  Maranham           }    |              |              |              |              |              |
+  Do.  against            |  203,167,456 | ------------ |   30,586,797 | ------------ | ------------ |
+Proceeds of the Customs   |   74,648,957 |   83,963,025 |   83,429,147 |   81,317,345 |  112,633,410 |
+Portuguese Ships arrived  |           52 |           64 |           70 |           69 |           80 |
+  Do.  foreign            |           34 |           29 |           12 |           43 |           58 |
+Total Ships               |           86 |           93 |           82 |          112 |          138 |
+New Slaves from Africa    |          992 |        1,221 |        1,592 |        2,692 |        2,615 |
+  Do.  from Brazil        |          680 |          508 |          394 |          684 |          762 |
+Total Slaves imported }   |        1,672 |        1,729 |        1,986 |        3,376 |        3,377 |
+  in the Year         }   |              |              |              |              |              |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Total Number of Slaves imported, from 1812 to 1821, - - - 45,477.
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM, FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.
+(Continued)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+    1817.     |    1818.     |    1819.     |    1820.     |Mean of first five| Mean of second |    1821.     |
+              |              |              |              |    Years.        |   Five Years.  |              |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------|----------------|--------------|
+    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |      Rees.   |      Rees.       |    Rees.       |    Rees.     |
+  635,642,720 |  687,505,720 |  616,297,520 |  271,501,280 |  300,194,336     |  496,454,680   |  293,618,720 |
+  988,100,000 |  759,320,000 |  934,069,500 |  326,230,200 |  265,895,180     |  685,061,940   |  193,583,790 |
+  743,334,230 |  569,961,450 |  527,062,435 |  474,282,020 |  410,380,813     |  613,338,389   |  331,483,280 |
+  255,289,960 |  149,862,520 |  144,499,960 |  149,927,240 |   97,313,930     |  175,674,752   |  112,652,710 |
+  878,979,730 |  908,004,920 |  562,534,950 |  435,639,960 |  589,842,761     |  667,075,350   |  442,757,290 |
+--------------|--------------|--------------|    9,491,000 |------------------|----------------|--------------|
+   77,940,200 |  108,261,640 |   92,154,390 |   66,430,800 |------------------|   75,538,774   |  116,099,750 |
+--------------|   20,076,200 |   14,947,260 |    7,374,460 |------------------|----------------|    2,325,600 |
+  102,164,290 |  178,041,520 |   75,136,180 |  132,282,730 |------------------|  108,616,744   |   40,091,590 |
+--------------|   13,625,600 |    2,320,000 |   12,091,000 |------------------|----------------|--------------|
+--------------|   17,169,400 |--------------|--------------|------------------|----------------|--------------|
+3,681,451,130 |3,411,828,970 |2,983,022,195 |1,885,250,690 |1,709,760,809     |2,841,179,613   |1,532,612,730 |
+   27,706,200 |   11,797,100 |    6,059,565 |    5,392,360 |   12,250,420     |   14,634,625   |--------------|
+   33,375,120 |   33,161,620 |   13,619,060 |   13,838,600 |   14,056,060     |   22,571,520   |--------------|
+   57,456,520 |   49,855,700 |   23,041,480 |   28,261,380 |   29,723,480     |   41,776,216   |--------------|
+  307,923,950 |  175,888,560 |  111,670,680 |   83,702,900 |  120,768,112     |  168,261,274   |--------------|
+   89,924,400 |   44,665,120 |   49,258,310 |   33,272,580 |   20,065,200     |   54,370,532   |--------------|
+  506,977,320 |  579,338,910 |  359,983,900 |  212,115,710 |  362,556,194     |  420,601,896   |--------------|
+    1,746,000 |      672,000 |      490,000 |      240,000 |------------------|      784,400   |--------------|
+  103,453,400 |   96,565,780 |   55,042,700 |   46,099,960 |   36,879,470     |   70,341,748   |--------------|
+        3,663 |        3,966 |        4,579 |        5,263 |        3,292     |        4,578   |--------------|
+       12,826 |       21,868 |       10,196 |        9,219 |        5,755     |       12,186   |--------------|
+       27,552 |       12,180 |        9,324 |        2,876 |       10,668     |       13,662   |--------------|
+       22,686 |       25,224 |        4,961 |        5,122 |        8,775     |       14,509   |--------------|
+    1,254,440 |    3,347,040 |    7,002,920 |    7,312,400 |    2,614,756     |    4,261,180   |--------------|
+    4,886,400 |    6,934,300 |    3,305,000 |    1,477,000 |    1,348,400     |    3,536,700   |--------------|
+   22,220,000 |   24,240,000 |   23,590,000 |    4,020,000 |    9,150,920     |   18,534,000   |--------------|
+   10,800,000 |   17,400,000 |    6,600,000 |    9,800,000 |    2,298,400     |    9,920,000   |--------------|
+          288 |          265 |          303 |          221 |          111     |          259   |          657 |
+           76 |          109 |          132 |          269 |           27     |          124   |--------------|
+        2,047 |          694 |        1,879 |        2,226 |        1,179     |        1,921   |        1,620 |
+          382 |          442 |           54 |          204 |           77     |          227   |          260 |
+       40,080 |       53,082 |       52,689 |       45,687 |       20,600     |       42,675   |       82,221 |
+        2,237 |        5,786 |        1,799 |        1,669 |          541     |        2,485   |--------------|
+        9,624 |       10,453 |        8,187 |        8,751 |        4,891     |        8,328   |--------------|
+        3,398 |        3,621 |        2,717 |        3,541 |        1,427     |           99   |--------------|
+--------------|  257,858,230 |--------------|  352,145,615 |------------------|1,379,412,568   |--------------|
+  132,588,568 |--------------|  470,596,983 |--------------|------------------|----------------|--------------|
+  150,145,175 |  247,213,751 |  219,786,377 |  158,517,700 |   87,198,376     |  167,659,282   |  115,686,300 |
+           89 |           79 |           80 |           61 |           67     |           77   |           48 |
+           63 |          100 |           57 |           80 |           35     |           71   |           56 |
+          152 |          179 |          137 |          141 |          102     |          149   |          104 |
+        5,797 |        3,377 |        4,784 |        2,381 |        1,822     |        3,790   |        1,718 |
+        2,325 |        3,259 |        1,269 |          483 |          713     |        1,619   |--------------|
+        8,122 |        6,636 |        6,053 |        2,864 |        2,535     |        5,409   |        1,718 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.
+(Continued below)
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-------------------------|
+                                                                 COTTON                                                 |         RICE            |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Y|       |  LISBON      |   OPORTO     |   ENGLAND   |    FRANCE    |    UNITED    | Different  | High    |    TOTAL    |    LISBON   |   OPORTO  |
+E|       |              |              |             |              |    STATES    |    Ports.  |and Low  |             |             |           |
+A|       |              |              |             |              |              |            | Price.  |             |             |           |
+R|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |        3,305 |          562 |       36,523|--------------|         150  |         30 | 2,700 to|       40,570|       47,780|    17,150 |
+8|Arrobas|       17,591 |        2,997 |      196,154|--------------|         827  |        135 |  3,400  |      217,754|      253,890|    90,080 |
+1|Amount |   56,087,050 |    9,298,293 |  598,742,727|--------------|   2,317,787  |    519,925 |         |  666,965,782|  257,719,470| 94,777,080|
+2|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |        8,938 |        1,127 |       50,108|--------------|--------------|------------| 3,000 to|       60,173|       39,728|    21,211 |
+8|Arrobas|       48,003 |        5,960 |      272,730|--------------|--------------|------------|  4,600  |      326,693|      206,787|   112,453 |
+1|Amount |  188,275,184 |   23,515,043 |1,058,815,456|--------------|--------------|------------|         |1,245,605,683|  206,448,300|116,376,750|
+3|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       12,144 |        1,204 |       31,236|         2,087|--------------|------------| 4,100 to|       46,671|       45,615|    24,444 |
+8|Arrobas|       65,045 |        6,351 |      166,459|        10,527|--------------|------------|  5,000  |      248,385|      242,417|   125,747 |
+1|Amount |  401,063,336 |   36,790,539 |  913,032,959|    63,692,999|--------------|------------|         |1,414,579,833|  219,802,820|111,238,700|
+4|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       18,276 |        1,672 |       30,804|--------------|--------------|          5 | 4,400 to|       50,757|       51,161|     20,068|
+8|Arrobas|      100,000 |        8,977 |      168,877|--------------|--------------|         25 |  7,000  |      277,879|      272,607|    104,738|
+1|Amount |  577,330,200 |   50,109,500 |1,077,256,700|--------------|--------------|    160,000 |         |1,704,856,400|  229,406,200| 84,260,500|
+5|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       19,040 |        2,082 |       38,835|         3,570|--------------|------------| 4,500 to|       63,527|       57,585|     24,550|
+8|Arrobas|      105,448 |       10,822 |      214,538|        19,413|--------------|------------|  8,500  |      350,257|      293,787|    123,830|
+1|Amount |  892,691,100 |   93,221,455 |1,857,112,006|   166,226,425|--------------|------------|         |3,003,250,986|  248,658,750| 98,699,085|
+6|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       25,830 |        3,788 |       38,369|         3,145|--------------|------------| 7,000 to|       71,182|       31,804|     19,658|
+8|Arrobas|      144,904 |       20,925 |      218,343|        17,557|--------------|------------| 10,000  |      401,729|      168,565|    103,668|
+1|Amount |1,106,601,700 |  157,833,900 |1,703,908,950|   132,448,300|--------------|------------|         |3,100,792,850|  194,752,275|130,820,437|
+7|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       16,294 |        3,251 |       49,083|         4,899|           33 |         170| 7,000 to|       73,730|       48,252|     25,037|
+8|Arrobas|       88,488 |       18,595 |      267,164|        27,488|          205 |         853|  9,000  |      402,793|      224,263|    133,167|
+1|Amount |  680,206,400 |  145,041,000 |2,083,879,200|   233,313,800|    1,599,000 |   6,658,400|         |3,150,692,800|  260,115,600|158,600,400|
+8|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       16,625 |        2,629 |       40,291|         5,910|--------------|           8| 7,500 to|       65,463|       41,993|     22,934|
+8|Arrobas|       91,074 |       14,212 |      222,623|        31,326|--------------|          45|  8,600  |      359,280|      220,562|    116,184|
+1|Amount |  517,821,500 |    81,745,500|1,333,142,384|   203,052,350|--------------|     238,833|         |2,136,000,537|  201,039,450|104,074,950|
+9|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       12,799 |         2,311|       48,279|         2,915|--------------|         315| 4,900 to|       66,619|       43,034|     21,205|
+8|Arrobas|       67,730 |        12,493|      268,736|        16,502|--------------|       1,732|  5,500  |      367,193|      214,842|    106,764|
+2|Amount |  357,766,700 |    66,169,900|1,406,080,282|    36,508,600|--------------|   9,006,400|         |1,925,531,882|  159,720,609| 79,815,814|
+0|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       10,930 |           873|       26,364|         3,655|--------------|------------| 3,900 to|       41,822|       42,289|     13,391|
+8|Arrobas|       58,836 |         4,592|      143,771|        18,899|--------------|------------|  4,850  |      226,118|      212,824|     68,969|
+2|Amount |  253,675,950 |    18,825,000|  600,658,671|    85,097,600|--------------|------------|         |  958,257,221|  161,116,775| 53,557,814|
+1|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.
+(Continued)
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+        RICE.                     |          TANNED HIDES          |        HIDES                  |       SKINS        |         GUM.         |    SUNDRIES.   |
+                                  |                                |    Dry and Green.             |                    |     _Alqueires_      |                |
+----------------------------------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ Different |High and  |  Total    ||Lisbon|Oporto|Different|Medium |Lisbon |Oporto| Divers |Medium |Lisbon|Oporto|Medium|Lisbon |Oporto|Medium |  Divers Ports. |
+    Ports. |Low Prices|           |       |      |  Ports. | Price |       |      | Ports. | Price |      |      | Price|       |      | Price |                |
+-----------|----------------------|-------|------|---------|-------|-------|------|--------|-------|------|------|------|-------|------|-------|----------------|
+      2,099|  600 to  |     67,029|  1593 |   480|     570 |  2100 |   5229|   243|   6811 |    770|  3263|    36|   750|   1903|   834|   2050|                |
+     10,676|  1,300   |    354,646|                    5,550,300   |                   9,457,140   |          2,474,250 |        5,610,850     |                |
+ 11,811,200|          |354,308,220|                                |                               |                    |                      |  25,581,550    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+      5,275|  650 to  |     66,214|  6671 |   300|         |  2100 |   7353|  1114|    248 |    750|  4769|  5072|   730|   1752|   503|   3000|                |
+     28,165|  1,200   |    854,646|                   14,639,100   |                   6,536,250   |          7,380,750 |        6,916,500     |                |
+ 28,145,000|          |350,970,050|                                |                               |                    |                      |  12,667,025    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        892|  800 to  |     70,957|  7380 |   758|         |  2000 |   6785|  1071|   2277 |    900|  7693|  3554|   900|   1891|   368|   2400|                |
+      4,088|  1,000   |    372,252|                   16,276,000   |                   9,919,700   |         10,122,300 |        5,428,600     |                |
+  3,536,200|          |334,577,720|                                |                               |                    |                      |   5,585,250    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+         50|  800 to  |     71,279|  8649 |  1785|         |  2500 |  15288|  2419|   1282 |   1200|  8235|  5102|   950|   1743|     4|   1800|                |
+        270|  1,000   |    377,605|                   26,085,000   |                  22,786,800   |         12,670,150 |        3,144,605     |                |
+    249,600|          |313,916,300|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,190,000    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ --------- |  700 to  |     82,135|  7085 |  1142|         |  2500 |  22133|  3867|    235 |   1200| 17268|  8690|   950|   1547|   104|   1300|                |
+ --------- |  1,000   |    417,617|                   20,567,500   |                  31,482,000   |         24,660,100 |        2,971,800     |                |
+ --------- |          |347,317,835|                                |                               |                    |                      |   4,400,000    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+      4,921| 1,000 to |     56,383|  7456 |  1406|         |  2500 |   1595|  4287|    496 |   1200| 31449|  7397|   950|   2577|   684|   800 |                |
+     25,134|  1,300   |    297,417|                   22,155,000   |                  24,889,200   |         36,903,700 |        5,869,800     |                |
+ 24,524,000|          |350,096,712|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,155,300    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        677| 1,150 to |     68,966|  8342 |   720|       50|  2700 |   4531|  1177|   5669 |   1250| 32460|  6395|   950|   1994|   202|  1800 |                |
+      3,663|  1,400   |    360,093|                   24,602,400   |                  14,221,250   |         36,912,250 |        3,952,800     |                |
+  4,362,500|          |432,078,500|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,651,500    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ --------- |   700 to |     64,927|   200 |  1977|     3411|  3000 |    150|    55|  27895 |    950|  4385|  3720|   875|   2883|   500|  1950 |                |
+ --------- |  1,300   |    336,746|                   16,764,000   |                  26,695,000   |         19,007,625 |        6,596,850     |                |
+ --------- |          |505,114,400|                                |                               |                    |                      |   2,246,800    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        497|   700 to |     64,736|  9813 |  1394|      140|  2800 |   3620|   687|  13795 |   1500|  2241|  3138|  1100|   1771|   417|  2000 |                |
+      2,575|   900    |    324,121|                   31,771,600   |                  27,453,000   |          5,905,930 |        4,376,000     |                |
+  1,650,000|          |241,184,423|                                |                               |                    |                      |   1,173,500    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------|
+        590|   600 to |     56,270|  9615 |   678|      144|  2800 |   4226|   850|  22306 |   1800| 18414|   850|  1000|   2845|   957|  2000 |                |
+      1,428|   640    |    284,721|                   28,921,600   |                  41,073,000   |         49,261,000 |        6,404,000     |                |
+  1,071,000|          |216,765,975|                                |                               |                    |                      |  33,971,279    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+
+
+RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.
+(Continued below)
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+   DESTINATION.        |      1812.   |     1813.    |      1814.   |      1815.   |      1816.    |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Lisbon                 |  329,129,250 |  431,910,360 |  657,262,706 |  850,902,450 |1,207,011,150  |
+Oporto                 |  109,206,658 |  147,234,848 |  154,551,839 |  146,581,700 |  208,018,640  |
+England                |  601,688,917 |1,060,051,156 |  917,043,259 |1,078,845,100 |1,852,712,000  |
+France                 |--------------|--------------|   63,971,999 |--------------|  166,908,425  |
+United States          |   10,304,419 |--------------|--------------|--------------|---------------|
+Different Ports        |   19,522,655 |    6,569,000 |    1,432,200 |      409,690 |---------------|
+Total of the Exports   |1,069,951,894 |1,645,795,359 |1,794,262,003 |2,076,738,850 |3,434,650,215  |
+Export Duties on Cotton|  130,654,878 |  196,016,626 |  148,634,103 |  166,727,400 |  210,154,200  |
+National Ship sailed   |           52 |           62 |           66 |           66 |           77  |
+Foreign Ships sailed   |           35 |           27 |           14 |           39 |           54  |
+Total Ships sailed     |           87 |           89 |           80 |          105 |          131  |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.
+(Continued)
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-----------------|
+     1817.      |      1818.      |    1819      |     1820        | Mean of First   | Mean of Second  |      1821.      |
+                |                 |              |                 |  Five Years.    |   Five Years.   |                 |
+----------------|-----------------|--------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------|
+ 1,377,936,025  |  1,012,630,550  |   730,509,375|   556,768,709   |   695,249,183   |   976,971,161   |   483,451,725   |
+   309,450,087  |    316,367,700  |   196,421,700|   155,742,814   |   153,138,735   |   237,200,138   |    88,312,150   |
+ 1,728,432,950  |  2,084,502,450  | 1,333,142,354| 1,406,996,782   | 1,102,068,086   | 1,681,157,507   |   602,368,671   |
+   132,448,300  |    242,214,100  |   203,392,000|    86,879,600   | --------------- |   166,368,185   |    85,130,200   |
+ -------------- |      7,319,000  |    48,720,959|    20,168,000   | --------------- | --------------- |    43,332,000   |
+       595,200  |      6,653,400  |       238,833|     9,126,400   | --------------- | --------------- |     1,020,250   |
+ 3,548,862,562  |  3,669,687,200  | 2,512,425,212| 2,237,396,305   | 2,004,279,664   | 3,080,604,298   | 2,304,685,996   |
+   241,037,400  |    241,675,800  |   215,568,000|   220,315,800   |   170,437,441   |   225,750,240   |   153,319,999   |
+            86  |             77  |            78|            63   |            64   |            76   |            49   |
+            65  |             78  |            66|            70   |            34   |            66   |            65   |
+           151  |            155  |           144|           133   |            98   |           143   |           114   |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+        STATE OF INDUSTRY.
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+      All the Provinces.              |      Where.          |Quantity|  Daily |  Daily  |  Total  |
+                                      |                      |        |Maximum |Minimum. |         |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Commerce and |National Houses         |City of Maranhaó      |      54|        |         |         |
+Industry.    |Ditto foreign           |    Ditto             |       4|        |         |         |
+             |Men living by their own |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |  industry              |All the provinces     | 29  580|        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+             |Steam engine for        |City of Maranhaó      |       1|        |         |         |
+Machines,    |  shelling rice.        |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |Machines, with mules,   |    Ditto             |      22|        |         |         |
+Potteries,   | for shelling rice      |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |Ditto for sugar         |Interior              |       7|        |         |         |
+Furnaces,    |Ditto for bruising cane |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             | for distilling         |    Ditto             |     115|        |         |         |
+and Forges.  |Hand machines for       |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             | cleansing cotton       |    Ditto             |     521|        |         |         |
+             |Manufactory of          |Isle of Maranhaó      |       1|        |         |         |
+             |Looms for weaving cotton|In the city           |     230|        |         |         |
+             |Potteries               |    Ditto             |      27|        |         |         |
+             |Lime kilns              |Isle of Maranhaó      |      26|        |         |         |
+             |Saw pits                |All the provinces     |      18|        |         |         |
+             |Forges                  |    Ditto             |     132|        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Taylors.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      61|  1,000 |     320 |     157 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      96|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Braziers.    |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    600 |     320 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Carpenters.  |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      86|    800 |     320 |     269 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     183|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Woodcutters. |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      96|  1,200 |     400 |     138 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      42|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+  Ship       |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      80|    800 |     320 |     118 |
+Carpenters.  |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      38|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+  Smiths     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       5|    800 |     400 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |        |  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Blacksmiths. |Freemen                 |City of Maranhaó      |      37|    700 |     320 |      60 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      23|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Coopers.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       2|     48 |     320 |       3 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Joiners.     |Freemen                 |All the provinces     |      30|    800 |     400 |      57 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      27|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Goldsmiths.  |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      49|    640 |     400 |      60 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      11|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Masons and   |Freemen                 |City of Maranhaó      |     404|    800 |     320 |   1,012 |
+Stone-cutters|Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     608|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Painters.    |Freemen                 |All the provinces     |      10|    640 |     400 |      15 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       5|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Carpenters.  |Freemen                 |City of Maranhaó      |      92|    800 |     400 |     235 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     143|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Sadlers.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    800 |     400 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Tanners.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    480 |     320 |      10 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       6|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Workwomen and|Free                    |                      |        |        |         |   1,800 |
+Female       |Slaves                  |    Ditto             | 1   800|    240 |     160 |         |
+ Servants.   |                        |                      |        |        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Servants     |Whites                  |All the provinces     |     560|Variable|Variable |     760 |
+and Factors. |Free blacks             |All the provinces     |     200|Variable|Variable |         |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+        STATEMENT OF PRODUCE.
+-------------------------------------------------------------------|
+  In the whole province.    |  Produce.   | Consumption |  Medium  |
+                            |             |             |   Value. |
+----------------------------|-------------|-------------|----------|
+New Cotton      arrobas     |  225518     |   11600     |    3900  |
+Spirits         pipes       |     385     |     405     |   60000  |
+Rice            alqueires   |  570079     |  380945     |     570  |
+Sugar           arrobas     |     417     |   20000     |    3200  |
+Oil             canadas     |   68386     |   30018     |     600  |
+Potatoes        arrobas     |    2420     |    8600     |    1200  |
+Currie          ditas       |      83     |      32     |    2500  |
+Coffee          ditas       |    1020     |     880     |    3200  |
+Dry Beef        ditas       |   48924     |   64200     |    2000  |
+Wax             ditas       |      37     |     500     |    3200  |
+Hides           numero      |   28876     |    2578     |    1800  |
+Beans           alqueires   |    3128     |    3500     |    1400  |
+Fruits          number      |      36     |   todas     |  variable|
+Ginger          arrobas     |      28     |       6     |    2400  |
+Mandioc         alqueires   |  207899     |  198810     |     900  |
+Treacle         barrels     |    6988     |    2381     |     170  |
+Maize           alqueires   |   77172     |   todo      |     700  |
+Salt Fish       arrobas     |   15254     |   todo      |    1000  |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------|
+              STATEMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
+       |In the whole | Employed | Existing. |Mean Worth.|      Daily.  |
+       |  Province   |          |           |           |              |
+-------|-------------|----------|-----------|-----------|--------------|
+Persons|Freemen      |  19960   |   35618   |-----------|de 240 a 326  |
+       |Slaves       |  69534   |   84434   |  200000   |de 160 a 240  |
+-------|-------------|----------|-----------|-----------|--------------|
+       |Oxen         |   8811   |  130640   |   10000   |--------------|
+       |Asses        |----------|      28   |   20000   |--------------|
+       |Goats        |----------|    7400   |    1200   |--------------|
+       |Sheep        |----------|    1800   |    2000   |--------------|
+Cattle.|Horses       |    600   |   12240   |   20000   |--------------|
+       |Mares        |----------|    9400   |   10000   |--------------|
+       |Mules        |   1100   |    3200   |   45000   |--------------|
+       |Ewes         |----------|     890   |    1200   |--------------|
+       |Cows         |----------|   20400   |   12000   |--------------|
+ Total Amount of Agriculture      1,897,271,846                        |
+ Capital employed                27,813,600,000                        |
+ Number of Farms                          4,856                        |
+ Number of Proprietors                    2,683                        |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+_Note_.--The worth is calculated in rees, the 1,000, or milree, being
+worth 5s. 2d. sterling.
+
+
+THE END
+
+LONDON:
+
+Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.
+
+ERRATA. (already corrected)
+
+Page 30. line 20. for _hopes_ read _losses_.
+
+41. 21. for _1817_ read _1807_.
+
+45. in the list of ships that remained at Lisbon, last line but one, for
+_Ferlao_ read _Trítaõ_.
+
+47. line 12. for _Ponta_ read _Ponte_.
+
+57. 4. for _ambassader_ read _ambassador_.
+
+59. 17. for _sodier_ read _soldier_.
+
+61. 4. for _government_ read _governments_.
+
+64. in the first line of note + for _not_ read _most_.
+
+65. line 13. for _Custovaõ_ read _Cristovaõ_.
+
+69. 6. for _Cauler_ read _Caula_.
+
+79. 21. for _fuchsia_ read _fuschia_.
+
+126. 16. for _impotation_ read _importation_.
+
+130. 23. for _nove_ read _nova_.
+
+141. 4. from bottom, for _Pinja_ read _Piraja_.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL ***
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+<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, by Maria Graham</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
+at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
+are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
+country where you are located before using this eBook.
+</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Journal of a Voyage to Brazil<br />
+And Residence There During Part of the Years 1821, 1822, 1823</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Maria Graham</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 22, 2007 [eBook #21201]<br />
+[Most recently updated: June 22, 2021]</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Chuck Greif, Janet Blenkinship and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team</div>
+<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL ***</div>
+
+<table summary="note" border="0" cellpadding="10" style="background-color: #ccccff;">
+  <tr>
+    <td align="center" valign="top">Transcriber's note: The spelling of the original has been retained. This includes varied spellings of some words and names.</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p class="i"><a name="slave" id="slave"><img src="images/front.png" alt="Slave Market at Rio Janeiro" /><br />
+Slave Market at Rio Janeiro.</a></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>JOURNAL</h3>
+<p class="c">OF A</p>
+<h1>VOYAGE TO BRAZIL,</h1>
+
+<p class="c">AND</p>
+
+<h3>RESIDENCE THERE,</h3>
+<p class="c">DURING PART OF THE YEARS 1821, 1822, 1823.</p>
+
+
+<p class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="c"><span class="smcap">By MARIA GRAHAM.</span></p>
+
+<p class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="b">
+ONCE MORE UPON THE WATERS, YET ONCE MORE,<br />
+AND THE WAVES BOUND BENEATH ME AS A STEED<br />
+THAT KNOWS HIS RIDER.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="i"><img src="images/001.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<h3>LONDON:</h3>
+
+<p class="c">PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,</p>
+
+<p class="c">PATERNOSTER-ROW;</p>
+
+<p class="c">AND J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.</p>
+
+<p class="c">1824.</p>
+
+<p class="c">Printed by A. &amp; R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.</p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<table summary="toc" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
+<tr><td><a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE.</b></a><br />
+<a href="#PLATES"><b>PLATES.</b></a><br />
+<a href="#VIGNETTES"><b>VIGNETTES.</b></a><br />
+<a href="#INTRODUCTION"><b>INTRODUCTION.</b></a><br />
+<a href="#JOURNAL"><b>JOURNAL.</b></a><br />
+<a href="#SECOND_VISIT_TO_BRAZIL"><b>SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL.</b></a><br />
+<a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX.</b></a><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Although the Journal of a voyage to Brazil, and of a residence of many
+months in that country, was not written without a view to publication at
+some time; yet many unforeseen circumstances forced the writer to pause
+before she committed it to press, and to cancel many pages recording
+both public and private occurrences.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps there is even yet too much of a personal nature, but what is
+said is at least honest; and if the writer should suffer personally by
+candour, the suffering will be cheerfully borne.</p>
+
+<p>As to public events, all that can be new in the Journal is the bringing
+together facts which have reached Europe one by one, and recording the
+impression produced on the spot by those occurrences which might be
+viewed in a very different light elsewhere. Some have, no doubt, been
+distorted by the interested channels through which they have reached the
+public; some by the ignorance of the reporters; and most by the party
+spirit which has viewed either with enthusiasm or malignity the
+acquisition of freedom in any quarter of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>The writer does not pretend to perfect impartiality, for in some cases
+impartiality is no virtue; but knowing that no human good can be
+attained without a mixture of evil, she trusts that a fair picture of
+both has been given, although it has cost some pain in the writing.</p>
+
+<p>Of the natives of the country, or of those engaged in its service, what
+is said, whether of those still employed or of those no longer in the
+empire, was written under the impression of the moment; and the writer's
+confidence in the good sense and justice of the Brazilian government and
+people is such, that she leaves the passages as they stood at the moment
+of writing.</p>
+
+<p>The events of the last three years in Brazil have been so important,
+that it was thought best not to interrupt the account of them, by
+continuing what may be called the writer's personal narrative after she
+reached Chile; therefore the two visits to Brazil are printed together,
+along with an Introduction containing a sketch of the history of the
+country previous to the first visit, and a notice of the public events
+of the year of her absence, to connect it with the second.</p>
+
+<p>The Journal of a visit to Chile will form the subject of a separate
+volume.</p>
+
+<p>It was thought essential that the narratives concerning Spanish and
+Portuguese America should be kept quite separate; the countries
+themselves being as different in climate and productions, as the
+inhabitants are in manners, society, institutions, and government.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more interesting than the actual situation of the whole
+of South America. While Europe was engaged in the great revolutionary
+war, that country was silently advancing towards the point at which
+longer subjection to a foreign dominion became impossible.
+Circumstances, not laws, had opened the ports of the South Atlantic and
+the Pacific. Individuals, not nations, had lent their aid to the
+patriots of the New World: and more warlike instruments and ammunition
+had gone silently from the warehouses of the merchant to arm the natives
+against their foreign tyrants, than had ever issued from the arsenals of
+the greatest nations. But, for a period, Brazil did not openly join in
+the struggle for independence. The Royal Family of Portugal took refuge
+there; and converted it, by that step, from a colony into the seat of
+government, from a state of slavery to one of sovereignty. Therefore,
+while the court continued to reside at Rio de Janeiro, the Brazilians
+had no inducement to break with the mother country. But it was very
+different when the King returned to Lisbon, and the Cortes, forgetting
+the change of men's minds produced by circumstances, endeavoured to
+force Brazil back to the abject state from which she had arisen. Then
+arose the struggle, some part of which it was the fortune of the writer
+to witness; and concerning which she was able to collect some facts
+which may serve as materials for future history. She trusts that if the
+<i>whole truth</i> is not to be found in her pages, that there will be
+<i>nothing but the truth</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is with no small anxiety that the Journal is sent into the world, in
+the hope that it may tend to excite interest for the country by making
+it better known. Perhaps the writer has over-rated her powers, in
+attempting to record the progress of so important an event as the
+emancipation of such an empire from the thraldrom of the mother country.
+The lighter part of her task, namely, the description of the country,
+its inhabitants, and the manners of the different classes, both of
+natives and foreigners, should have been fuller; but that want of
+health, and sometimes want of spirits, prevented her from making use of
+all the means that might have been within her reach of acquiring
+knowledge. She trusts, however, that there is no misrepresentation of
+importance; and that the Journal, the writing of which has to her
+beguiled many a lonely and many a sorrowful hour, will not give a
+moment's pain to any human creature.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PLATES" id="PLATES"></a>PLATES.</h2>
+
+<table summary="plates" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3">
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">Plate</span></td><td align="right" valign="top">I.</td><td><a href="#slave">Val Longo, or Slave Market at Rio.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">II.</td><td><a href="#dragon">Represents the Great Dragon Tree of Oratava, of which Humboldt has
+given so interesting an account. He saw it in all its greatness; I drew
+it after it had lost half its top.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">III.</td><td><a href="#gate">View of Count Maurice's Gate at Pernambuco, with the Slave Market.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">IV.</td><td><a href="#bahia">Gamella Tree at Bahia.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">V.</td><td><a href="#larang">Larangeiras.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">VI.</td><td><a href="#cottage">View from Count Hoggendorp's Cottage.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">VII.</td><td><a href="#gloria">View of Rio from the Gloria Hill.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">VIII.</td><td><a href="#corcovado">Corcovado, from Botofogo.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">IX.</td><td><a href="#palace">Palace of San Cristova&#335;.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">X.</td><td><a href="#maria">Dona Maria de Jesus.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" valign="top">XI.</td><td><a href="#burial">English Burial Ground.</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VIGNETTES" id="VIGNETTES"></a>VIGNETTES.</h2>
+
+<table summary="vignettes" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3">
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">I.</td><td><a href="#a">That at the head of the Journal, represents two young Dragon
+Trees; that with a single head is twenty years old, and had not, when I
+saw it, been tapped for the Dragon's Blood. The other is about a century
+old, and the bark is disfigured by the incisions made in it to procure
+the gum.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">II.</td><td><a href="#b">Part of Pernambuco, seen from Cocoa-nut Island, within the Reef.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">III.</td><td><a href="#c">Slaves dragging a Hogshead in the Streets of Pernambuco.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">IV.</td><td><a href="#d">Cadeira, or Sedan Chair of Bahia.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">V.</td><td><a href="#e">Church and Convent of Sant Antonio da Barre at Bahia, as seen from the Ro&ccedil;a.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">VI.</td><td><a href="#f">The Sugar-loaf Rock, at the Entrance to the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">VII.</td><td><a href="#g">The End of an Island in the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro, drawn for the sake of the variety of Vegetation.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">VIII.</td><td><a href="#h">Convicts carrying Water at Rio de Janeiro.</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">IX.</td><td><a href="#i">Stone Cart at Rio de Janeiro.</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+<h3>SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL.</h3>
+
+
+<p>I judged it necessary to prefix the following sketch of the history of
+Brazil to the journal of my voyage thither, in order that the political
+events to which I was an eye-witness might be the better understood.</p>
+
+<p>The early part of the history is almost entirely taken from Mr. Southey.
+It would have been easy for me to have referred to the Portuguese
+authors, as I have read nearly all that are to be found in print of Mr.
+Southey's authorities, and some that he does not mention; but Mr.
+Southey had been so faithful as well as judicious in the use he has made
+of his authors, that it would have been absurd, if not impertinent, to
+have neglected his guidance. From the time of the King's arrival in
+Brazil, or rather of his leaving Lisbon, I am answerable for all I have
+stated: it is little, but I hope that little is correct.</p>
+
+<p>The circumstances of Spanish and Portuguese America were very different
+in every stage. In Mexico, in Peru, in Chili, the conquerors encountered
+a people civilised and humane; acquainted with many of the arts of
+polished life; agriculturists and mechanics; knowing in the things
+belonging to the altar and the throne, and waging war for conquest and
+for glory. But the savages of Brazil were hunters and cannibals; they
+wandered, and they made war for food: few of the tribes knew even the
+cultivation of the mandioc, and fewer still had adopted any kind of
+covering, save paint and feathers for ornament. The Spanish conquests
+were more quickly made, and appeared more easily settled, because in
+states so far advanced in civilisation the defeat of an army decides the
+fate of a kingdom, and the land already cultivated, and the mines
+already known and worked, were entered upon at once by the conquerors.</p>
+
+<p>In Brazil the land that was granted by leagues was <i>to be won by inches</i>
+from the hordes of savages who succeeded each other in incalculable
+multitudes, and whose migratory habits rendered it a matter of course
+for one tribe immediately to occupy the ground from which its
+predecessors had been driven. Hence the history of the early settlers in
+Brazil presents none of those splendid and chivalresque pictures that
+the chronicles of the Corteses, and Pizarros, and Almagros furnish. They
+are plain, and often pathetic scenes of human life, full of patience,
+and enterprise, and endurance; but the wickedness that stains even the
+best of them, is the more disgusting as it is more sordid.</p>
+
+<p>But the very circumstances that facilitated the settling of the Spanish
+colonies were also likely to accelerate their liberation. A sense and a
+remembrance of national honour and freedom, remained among the polished
+Mexicans and Peruvians. Their numbers indeed had been thinned by the
+cruelties of the conquerors, but enough were left to perpetuate the
+memory of their fathers, to hand down the prophecies uttered in the
+phrenzy of their dying patriots; and the Peruvian, when he visited Lima,
+looked round the chamber of the viceroys, as he saw niche after niche
+filled up with their pictures, till the fated number should be
+accomplished, with no common emotion<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>; and many a dreamer on the
+Peruvian coast, when he saw the Admiral of the Chilian squadron, was
+ready to hail him as the golden-haired son of light who was to restore
+the kingdom of the Incas.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>But in Brazil, what was once gained was not likely to be lost by the
+efforts of the natives, or at least by any recollection of their's,
+pointing to a better or more glorious time. They have been either
+exterminated, or wholly subdued. The slave hunting, which had been
+systematic on the first occupation of the land, and more especially
+after the discovery of the mines, had diminished the wretched Indians,
+so that the introduction of the hardier Africans was deemed necessary:
+<i>they</i> now people the Brazilian fields; and if here and there an Indian
+aldea is to be found, the people are wretched, with less than Negro
+comforts, and much less than Negro spirit or industry. Hence, while the
+original Mexicans and Peruvians form a real and respectable part of the
+assertors of the independance of their country, along with the Creole
+Spaniards, the Indians are nothing in Brazil; even as a mixed race, they
+have less part among the different casts than in the Spanish colonies;
+and therefore jealousies among the Portuguese themselves could alone at
+this period have brought affairs to their present crisis. These
+jealousies have taken place, and though they did not arise principally
+out of the causes of the emigration and return of the Royal family, they
+were at least quickened and accelerated by them.</p>
+
+<p>In 1499, Brazil was discovered by Vicente Ya&ntilde;ez Pin&ccedil;on, a native of
+Palos, and one of the companions of Columbus. He and his brothers were
+in search of new countries, and after touching at the Cape de Verd
+Islands, he steered to the south-west, till he came to the coast of
+Brazil, near Cape St. Augustine, and coasted along as far as the river
+Maranham, and thence to the mouth of the Oronoco. He carried home some
+valuable drugs, precious stones, and Brazil wood; but had lost two of
+his three ships on the voyage. He made no settlement, but had claimed
+the country for Spain.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime Pedro Alvarez Cabral was appointed by Emanuel, King of
+Portugal, to the command of a large fleet, destined to follow the course
+of Vasco de Gama in the east. Adverse winds, however, drove the
+expedition so far to the westward, that it fell in with the coast of
+Brazil, and the ships anchored in Porto Seguro on Good-Friday of the
+year 1500. On Easter-day the first Christian altar was raised in the new
+continent under a large tree, and mass was performed, at which the
+innocent natives assisted with pleased attention: the country was taken
+possession of for the crown of Portugal by the name of the land of the
+Holy Cross, and a stone cross was erected to commemorate the event.
+Cabral dispatched a small vessel to Lisbon to announce his discovery,
+and then, without making any settlement, proceeded to India.</p>
+
+<p>On the arrival of the news in Europe, the King of Portugal invited
+Amerigo Vespucci from Seville, and sent him with three ships to explore
+the country. After a long and distressing voyage they arrived, and very
+early in their intercourse with the natives they discovered that they
+were cannibals, but nevertheless they established a friendly intercourse
+with some of the tribes; and after coasting along South America as far
+as lat. 52&deg;, finding neither port nor inhabitants, and suffering from
+intolerable cold, they returned to Lisbon in 1502.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the next year Amerigo sailed again with six ships; but having
+stood too near the coast of Africa, after passing the Cape de Verds by
+the orders of the commander, four of the vessels were lost, but Amerigo
+with the other two reached a port which they called All Saints.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> There
+they remained five months, in friendship with the natives, with whom
+some of the party travelled forty leagues into the interior. They
+erected a small fort, and left twelve men with guns and provisions, and
+having loaded their two ships with Brazil wood, monkeys, and parrots,
+they returned to Lisbon early in 1504.</p>
+
+<p>But as Brazil, as it now began to be called, did not promise that ample
+supply of gold which the Spaniards had discovered in their new
+countries, and which the Portuguese gained with less hazard from Africa,
+and from the East, the country ceased for a time to excite the attention
+of government, and the first actual settlements were made by private
+adventurers, who, on account of their trade, were desirous of having
+some kind of agents among the people. The first persons employed for
+this purpose were criminals, a sort of settlers that may do well in an
+unpeopled country, where there is nothing to do but to reclaim the land,
+but that must do ill where there are many and savage natives, because
+they either become degraded to the savage level themselves, if they
+continue friends, or, if not, they are apt to practise such cruelties
+and injustice as disgust the natives, render colonisation difficult, and
+if they teach any thing, it is all the worst part of the life of
+civilised nations.</p>
+
+<p>But in 1508, Amerigo Vespucci having returned to the service of Spain,
+the King resolved to take possession of the new land which had been
+discovered; and founding his claims on the grant of Alexander VI., he
+sent Vincent Ya&ntilde;ez Pin&ccedil;on and Juan Diaz de Solis to assert them. They
+made Cape St Augustine's, which Pin&ccedil;on had discovered, and coasted along
+to lat. 40&deg; south, erecting crosses as they went; but some disputes
+having arisen between them, they returned to Spain: and it appears that
+the remonstrances of Portugal against the voyage, as an interference
+with her discoveries, had some weight, for it was not until 1515 that
+Solis was dispatched on a second voyage, and then it was with the avowed
+purpose of seeking a passage to the Great Pacific Sea, which had been
+sought and seen by Balboa in 1513.</p>
+
+<p>That extraordinary but unfortunate man was the first European whose eyes
+rested on the broad Pacific. He had heard from the Indians of its
+existence, and resolutely set out to discover it, well aware of the
+dangers and difficulties he had to encounter. After twenty-five days of
+suffering and fatigue, he saw the South Sea; he heard of Peru, its
+mines, and its llamas, its cities and its aqueducts, and he received
+pearls<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> from the islands that lay in front of St. Miguel's bay, where
+he walked sword in hand up to his middle into the water and took
+possession for the King of Spain. No one in Europe now doubted that the
+western way to the East Indies was discovered.</p>
+
+<p>Great hopes were therefore entertained from the expedition of Solis.
+That able navigator made the coast of Brazil far to the southward of
+Cape St. Augustine, where he had been with Pin&ccedil;on; and on the 1st of
+January 1516 he discovered the harbour of Rio de Janeiro; thence he
+sailed still to the southward, and entered what he hoped at first would
+be a sea, or strait, by which he might communicate with the ocean; but
+it was the river La Plata, where Solis and several of his followers were
+murdered and devoured by the natives. The ships then put back to St.
+Augustines, loaded with Brazil wood, and returned to Spain.</p>
+
+<p>But the King Don Emanuel claimed these cargoes, and again remonstrated
+against the interference of Spain so effectually, that three years
+afterwards, when Magalhaens touched at Rio de Janeiro, he purchased
+nothing but provisions.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime several French adventurers had come to Brazil, and had taken in
+their cargoes of Brazil wood, monkies and parrots, and sometimes
+plundered some of the weaker Portuguese traders. In 1616, two of these
+adventurers entered the bay of All Saints, and had begun to trade with
+the Indians, when the Portuguese commander, Cristovam Jaques, sailing
+into the port, and examining all its coves, discovered them, and sunk
+the ships, crews, and cargoes. About the same time, a young Portuguese
+nobleman, who had been wrecked on the shoal off the entrance of the
+harbour<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>, and who had seen half his companions drowned, and half eaten
+by the Indians, had contrived to conciliate the natives. He had saved a
+musket and some powder from the wreck, and having taken an opportunity
+of shooting a bird in the presence of the inhabitants, they called him
+Caramuru, or the man of fire; and, as he accompanied them on an
+expedition against their enemies the Tapuyas, he became a favourite,
+married at least one Indian wife, and fixed his residence at the spot
+now called Villa Velha, near an excellent spring, and not far from the
+entrance to the bay.</p>
+
+<p>Caramuru, however, felt some natural longing to see his native land, and
+accordingly seized the opportunity afforded by the arrival of a French
+vessel, and taking his favourite wife, he went with her to France, where
+they were well received by the court, the king and queen standing
+sponsors at the baptism of the Brazilian lady, whose marriage was now
+celebrated according to the Christian form. Caramuru, however, was not
+permitted to go to Portugal; but by means of a young Portuguese student
+at Paris<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>, he communicated his situation to the King Joam III., and
+pressed him to send an expedition to the bay of All Saints. Shortly
+afterwards, Caramuru returned to Bahia, having agreed to freight two
+ships with Brazil wood as the price of his passage, of the artillery of
+the ships, and of the articles necessary for trading with the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Still, however, as Brazil furnished neither gold, nor that rich commerce
+which the Portuguese derived from their Indian trade, it was pretty much
+left to itself for the first thirty years after its discovery; and then
+the regulations adopted by the court were not, perhaps, the most
+advantageous for the country. The coast was divided by Joam III. into
+captaincies, many of which extended fifty leagues, and each captaincy
+was made hereditary, and granted to any one who was willing to embark
+with sufficient means in the adventure; and to these captains an
+unlimited jurisdiction, both criminal and civil, was granted.</p>
+
+<p>The first person who took possession of one of these captaincies was
+Martim Affonso de Souza, in 1531, who sometimes claims the discovery of
+Rio de Janeiro as his, although it had been named by Solis fifteen years
+before. Souza was probably deterred from fixing on the shores of that
+beautiful bay, by the number and fierceness of the Indian tribes that
+occupied them. He therefore coasted towards the south, naming Ilha
+Grande dos Magos on twelfth-day, when</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Three kings, or what is more, three wise men went<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Westward to seek the world's true orient."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>St. Sebastian's on the 20th, and St. Vincent's on the 22d; but having
+proceeded as far south as the La Plata, he returned to the neighbourhood
+of San Vincente, where he ultimately founded his colony, and whence he
+named the whole captaincy.</p>
+
+<p>Martim Affonso de Souza was no ordinary man: his cares for his colony
+did not relax even after he had been recalled, and sent as
+governor-general to India, where he had before highly distinguished
+himself. He introduced the sugar-cane from Madeira into his colony, and
+in it also the first cattle were bred. Thence they have spread all over
+the continent of South America, and have proved of more real value to it
+than its mines.</p>
+
+<p>Pero Lopes de Souza, the brother of Martim Affonso, had his fifty
+leagues of coast in two allotments; one part, St. Amaro, was immediately
+to the north of San Vincente, and the other was Tamaraca, between
+Pernambuco and Paraiba.</p>
+
+<p>About the same time the Fidalgo Pedro de Goes attempted a settlement at
+Paraiba do Sul; but after two years tolerable prosperity, he was
+attacked by the native tribe of Goaytacazes, and five years of warfare
+reduced him to the necessity of sending to Espirito Santo for vessels to
+remove his colonists.</p>
+
+<p>Vasco Fernandez de Coutinho began to settle Espirito Santo in the same
+year (1531) in which the former colonies had been begun. He had amassed
+a great fortune in the East, and expended most of it in collecting
+volunteers for his new colony; sixty fidalgoes and men of the royal
+household accompanied him. The adventurers had a prosperous voyage. On
+their arrival they built a fort, which they called N. S. da Victoria,
+and established four sugar-works. Coutinho returned to Lisbon for
+recruits and implements for mining, the settlers having now obtained
+some indications of gold and jewels to be found in the country.</p>
+
+<p>The adjoining captaincy of Porto Seguro was given to Pedro de Campo
+Tourinho, a nobleman and a navigator. He sold his possessions at home,
+and raised a large body of colonists, with which he established himself
+at Porto Seguro, the harbour where Cabral had first taken possession of
+Brazil. The history of the settlement of Porto Seguro, like that of all
+the others, is stained with the most atrocious cruelties; not such as
+soldiers in the heat of war commit, but cold calculated cruelties,
+exterminating men for the sake of growing canes, so waiting patiently
+for the <i>fruit</i> of crime.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Ilheos</i>, so called from its principal river, which has three islands at
+the mouth, was settled by Jorge de Figueredo Correa, who had a place in
+the treasury, under Joam III., between 1531 and 1540, and speedily
+became flourishing, being remarkably favourable to the sugar
+cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>Bahia de Todo os Santos was, with its adjacent territory, given to
+Francisco Pereira Coutinho, a fidalgo who had made himself a name in
+India. He fixed his abode at Villa Velha, where Caramuru had formed his
+little settlement, and two of his followers married the daughters of
+Caramuru.</p>
+
+<p>The bay, or reconcave of All Saints, is a magnificent harbour: the
+entrance appears to be a league in breadth; but on the right hand, on
+entering, there is a shoal dangerous to large vessels, called that of
+St. Antonio da Barre; and on the left, coral reefs running off from
+Itaporica. The country that surrounds it is so fertile, that it must
+always have been an object of desire whether to savage or civilised
+inhabitants; and it is not surprising that three revolutions, that is,
+three changes of indwellers, driven out by each other, should have been,
+in the memory of the Indians, before the settlement of Coutinho.</p>
+
+<p>That nobleman, whose early life had been passed in the East-Indian
+Portuguese wars, imprudently and cruelly disturbed the peace of the
+rising settlement, by the murder of a son of one of the chiefs. The
+consequence was, that after a most disastrous warfare, in the course of
+which the already flourishing sugar-works were burnt, he and Caramuru
+were both obliged to abandon the settlement and retire to Ilheos. Soon
+afterwards, however, he made peace with the Indians; but on his return
+to the Reconcave, he was wrecked on the reef off Itaporica, where the
+natives murdered him, but spared Caramuru, who returned to his old
+dwelling.</p>
+
+<p>In the settlement of Pernambuco, the first donatory, Duarte Coelho
+Pereira, was opposed not only by the natives, but by numbers of French,
+who having carried on a desultory though profitable trade on the coast,
+now joined the Indians in retarding those regular settlements which were
+likely to put an end to their commerce. The colony, however, had been
+planted at Olinda,<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> a situation as strong as it is beautiful, and
+Pereira contrived to engage some of the Indian tribes in his favour. The
+war was but of short continuance, and nothing farther, except the
+seizure of the little settlement of Garussa, in the woods and near the
+creek which separates Itameraca from the main land, occurred to impede
+the prosperity of the captaincy.</p>
+
+<p>The last colony which was founded during these ten eventful years was
+that of Maranham. Three adventurers undertook this settlement jointly.
+The most celebrated was Joam de Barros, the historian; the others were
+Fernam Alvares de Andrada, father of the writer of the Chronicle, and
+Aires da Cunha.</p>
+
+<p>Aires da Cunha, Barros's two sons, and nine hundred men, sailed in ten
+ships for their new possession, but were wrecked on the shoals of
+Maranham; so that it was long before any success attended the
+undertaking. Da Cunha was drowned, the sons of Barros slain by the
+Indians, and the rest of the people with difficulty survived in a very
+wretched condition.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the passage through Magellan's Straits had been discovered, and
+the Spaniards, first under Sebastian Cabot, and afterwards under Don
+Pedro de Mendoza, who founded Buenos Ayres, had begun to settle on the
+shores of the Plata, not without opposition from the Portuguese, and a
+more obstinate and fatal resistance from the Indians. The tribes in this
+neighbourhood appear to have been more civilised than those of the coast
+of Brazil, and consequently more formidable enemies to the rising towns.
+Orellana had also made his daring voyage down the mighty river that is
+sometimes called by his name. He had afterwards perished in an attempt
+to make a settlement on its shores, and nearly the same fate had
+attended Luiz de Mello da Silva, who made a similar attempt on the part
+of Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>Cabeza de Vacca had also made his adventurous overland journey from St.
+Catherine's, and after settling himself in the government of Assumption,
+had conducted various expeditions of discovery, always in hopes of
+finding an easy way to the gold countries. In one of these he found
+traces of the adventurer Garcia, a Portuguese, who, under the orders of
+Martim Affonso de Souza, had, with five companions, undertaken to
+explore the interior of South America. This man had by some means so
+conciliated the Indians, that he was followed by a very considerable
+army, and is said to have penetrated even into Tarija. He is believed to
+have perished by the hand of one of his own followers, but no
+particulars were ever known of his fate.</p>
+
+<p>During the next ten years, nothing remarkable occurred with regard to
+Brazil, except the founding of the city of St. Salvador's, by Thome de
+Souza, the first Captain General of Brazil, who carried out with him the
+first Jesuit missionaries. For the site of his new town De Souza fixed
+upon the hill immediately above the deepest part of the harbour of
+Bahia, which is defended at the back by a deep lake, and lies about half
+a league from the Villa Velha of Coutinho and Caramuru.</p>
+
+<p>The temporal concerns of the new colony, derived inestimable advantage
+from the friendship and assistance of the patriarch Caramuru: as to the
+spiritual, it was indeed time that some rule of faith and morals should
+find its way to Brazil. The settlers had hitherto had no instructors
+but friars, whose manners were as dissolute as their own, and who
+encouraged in them a licentious depravity, scarcely less shocking than
+the cannibalism of the savages. These latter are said to have eaten the
+children born by their own daughters to their prisoners of war,&mdash;a thing
+so unnatural, that it only gains credit because the Portuguese sold as
+slaves even their own children by the native women. The apostle of
+Brazil, as he may in truth be called, and chief of the six Jesuits who
+accompanied Souza, was Nobrega, the cotemporary and rival in the race of
+disinterested services to his fellow creatures of St. Francis Xavier;
+and, with regard to his steady attempts to protect as well as to convert
+the Indians, another Las Casas.</p>
+
+<p>Brazil was becoming an object of importance to the crown of Portugal.
+The new settlement of Bahia was established on the king's account, and
+at his expense 1000 persons had been sent out the first year, 1549. In
+four months there were 100 houses, six batteries, and a cathedral: a
+college for the Jesuits, a palace, and a custom-house were begun; the
+whole was defended by a mud wall. The next year supplies of all kinds
+arrived from Lisbon, and the year after that several female orphans, of
+noble family, were sent out as wives for the officers, with dowries in
+negroes, kine, and brood-mares.</p>
+
+<p>About this time, a Spanish expedition destined for the river Plata
+miscarried; one of the ships was wrecked off St. Vincent's, and to Hans
+Staade, one of the crew who survived and after various adventures fell
+into the power of the Indians, we are indebted for the most authentic
+and particular account of the Brazilian Savages.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> It is curious that
+the Indians of the new world, should so very far exceed all the savage
+tribes of the old in barbarity. But it is certain that no authentic
+accounts of cannibals have ever been brought from Africa; whereas, none
+of the early writers on Brazil and its inhabitants have failed to dwell
+upon their love of human flesh, as characteristic of the people.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1552 is distinguished by the arrival of the first bishop in
+Brazil. His see was fixed at St. Salvador's, or, as it is generally
+called, Bahia. In the next year, Thome de Souza retired from his
+government, and was succeeded by Don Duarte da Costa, who was
+accompanied by seven jesuits, among whom was the celebrated
+Anchieta.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> The chief of the order, Loyola, was still alive, he
+erected Brazil into a new province, and appointed Nobrega and Luis de
+Gran, who had been principal at Coimbra, joint provincials. From that
+moment the labours of the fathers for the real good of the country
+commenced. And whatever may be the opinions entertained, as to their
+politics and ultimate views, there is not a doubt but that the means
+they employed to reclaim and civilise the Indians, were mild, and
+therefore successful; that while they wrought their own purposes, they
+made their people happy; and that centuries will not repair the evil
+done by their sudden expulsion, which broke up the bands of humanised
+society which were beginning to unite the Indians with their fellow
+creatures.</p>
+
+<p>In 1553, the first school was established in Brazil, by Nobrega, in the
+high plains of Piratininga, about thirteen leagues from the colony of
+San Vicente. Anchieta was the school-master. The school was opened on
+the feast of the conversion of St. Paul, and the establishment, and the
+infant colony rising round it, received the name of the saint. St.
+Paul's has since grown to be one of the most important towns in Brazil.
+Its rich minerals, its iron-works, and other manufactures, but, above
+all, the high and free spirit of its inhabitants, who have taken the
+lead in every effort for the good of the country, distinguish it above
+all the southern towns of Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>Anchieta, while he taught Latin to the Portuguese and Mamalucos,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> and
+Portuguese to the Brazilians, learnt from these last their own tongue,
+and composed a grammar and dictionary for them. He had no books for his
+pupils, so that he wrote on separate leaves, in four different
+languages, the daily lesson for each. He served as physician, as well as
+priest and school-master, and practised and taught the most useful
+domestic arts. But the colony had, like all the others, to fight for its
+early existence; it was attacked by the Mamalucos of the neighbouring
+settlement of St. Andr&eacute;, who regarded the instruction of the Indians as
+a step towards abolishing their slavery, and exclaimed against it as an
+infringement of what they called their right to the services of the
+natives. They engaged by other pretences some of the neighbouring tribes
+to assist them, but they were met and defeated by those of St. Paul's.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime some disputes having arisen between the Governor and the
+Bishop, the latter resolved to return to Lisbon, but was wrecked on the
+coast at a place called the Baixos de San Francisco, and there seized,
+and with one hundred other white persons put to death by the Cahetes.
+The revenge of the Portuguese was horrible, the Cahetes were hunted,
+slaughtered, and all but exterminated.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1557, Joam III. died. His appointment of Mem de Sa, before
+his death, to the government of Brazil, prevented the country from
+immediately feeling the evils which a regency generally entails even in
+an established government, but which are sure to fall with tenfold
+weight upon a rising colony.</p>
+
+<p>Mem de Sa was a man of more enlightened mind, and more humane principles
+than most of those to whom the government of the Brazilian provinces
+had been intrusted. He arrived at Bahia in 1558, and earnestly applied
+himself to learn the relations in which the Portuguese, the Creoles, the
+Indians, and the mixed race stood to each other.</p>
+
+<p>His first acts were directed towards reclaiming the allied Indians from
+some of their most brutal practices, and to induce them to form
+settlements near those of the Jesuits. The selfish planters, interested
+in keeping up the feuds of the Indians, in order to procure slaves,
+exclaimed against these proceedings as violations of the freedom of the
+natives, and they were equally displeased at the orders issued, to set
+at liberty all the Indians who had been wrongfully enslaved. One
+powerful colonist alone refused to obey: Mem de Sa ordered his house to
+be surrounded and instantly levelled with the ground. Such an act was
+certainly calculated to inspire the Indians with confidence in his good
+intentions towards them, at the same time that his vigorous measures to
+punish them for any infraction of their engagements kept them in awe.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime an adventurer of no ordinary stamp, had formed a settlement in
+the finest harbour of Brazil, namely, that of Rio de Janeiro. Nicholas
+Durand de Villegagnon was a native of Provins en Brie, and a Knight of
+Malta. In 1648, he had been employed by Mary of Guise, at the entreaty
+of the French court, to convey her daughter the young Queen of Scots to
+France: in 1651 he was engaged in the defence of Malta, against the
+Pacha Sinan and the famous Dragut Reis, and two years afterwards
+published an account of that campaign. Having visited Brazil in 1558,
+Villegagnon could not be insensible to the advantages that must arise to
+France from having a settlement there; and, on his return to Europe, he
+made such representations at court of these advantages, that Henry II.
+gave him two vessels, each of 200 tons, and a store ship of 100 tons, to
+convey the adventurers who might wish to leave France, and who at that
+time were numerous. Villegagnon, wishing to make use of Coligny's
+interest, gave out that the new settlement was to be a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots, and this answered the double purpose of securing
+the Admiral's friendship, and gaining a number of respectable colonists.
+With these he reached Rio de Janeiro, and made his first settlement in a
+low rock at the mouth of the harbour, where there is now a small fort
+called the Laje, but finding it not sufficiently elevated to resist the
+high tides, he pitched on an island within the harbour, where there is
+only one landing place, and whose form and situation is singularly
+adapted for safety, especially against such enemies as the Indians.
+Those, however, of the Rio had been long accustomed to trade with the
+French, who, if they had not taught them, had at least encouraged them,
+to hate the Portuguese, whom Villegagnon flattered himself that he
+should be able to keep aloof by the assistance of the Savages.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime Coligny had exerted himself to send out assistance of every
+kind; provisions, recruits<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>, and protestant ministers. But
+Villegagnon now imagined himself secure in his colony, and threw off the
+mask of toleration. He behaved so tyrannically that many of the Hugonots
+were obliged to return to France, and of them he made the most malicious
+complaints, and concluded by saying, that they were heretics worthy of
+the stake.</p>
+
+<p>But nothing is so short-sighted as wickedness. Villegagnon's treachery
+was the cause of the ruin of his enterprise. Ten thousand protestants
+were ready to embark for Coligny, as the island, now called Villegagnon,
+was then named: but the report of those who had returned, stopped them,
+and the colony was left in a defenceless state.</p>
+
+<p>At length the attention of the court of Lisbon had been drawn towards
+the French settlement, and orders were sent to the Captain General to
+examine into its state first, and then, if possible, to take it.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, Mem de Sa, accompanied by Nobrega and two other Jesuits,
+attacked it in January, 1560, while Villegagnon was absent in France,
+and demolished the works, but had not sufficient force to attempt
+forming a settlement; and had Villegagnon succeeded in returning with
+the recruits he expected, he would have found it easy to re-establish
+and perhaps revenge himself. But his bad faith deterred the Hugonots
+from joining him, the civil war prevented the government from assisting
+him, and the French colony was lost.</p>
+
+<p>In 1564, Estacio de Sa, nephew of Mem, was sent out from Portugal to
+form a settlement in Rio, but finding his means inadequate to contend
+with the Indians, led on by the few remaining French, he went to San
+Vincente for reinforcements; these, however, only enabled him to keep up
+the war, and to maintain himself in a post he had fortified<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>, not far
+from the entrance of the harbour, and near the Sugar-loaf mountain, a
+bare and inaccessible rock, which, from a base of about four hundred
+feet, shoots up to a thousand in perpendicular height, on the west side
+of the bar. He therefore applied to his uncle for succour, who,
+collecting what force he could, led them in person, and arrived in the
+harbour on the 18th of January, 1567. On the 20th, St. Sebastian's day,
+the Indians and French were attacked in their strongest hold, then
+called Ura&ccedil;umiri, and having obtained a decisive victory, the French
+embarked in the four ships they still possessed, and fled to the coast
+of Pernambuco, where they attempted to form a settlement at Recife, but
+were dislodged by the Portuguese of Olinda.</p>
+
+<p>Mem de Sa now founded the city of St. Sebastian, more commonly called
+the city of Rio; and for its security the Jesuits, with their Indians,
+fortified both sides of the entrance to the harbour, which is about four
+miles distant from the city across the bay. Before these works, however,
+or the walls of the town were completed, the French made a vigorous
+effort to disturb the rising colony; but it ended in their defeat, and
+their guns were made use of to fortify the mouth of the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>Driven from Rio, the French attempted to form a settlement at Paraiba
+the next year; but the Indians, with the Jesuits at their head, and a
+very few troops, under the commander Martim Leytam, expelled them.</p>
+
+<p>Under Mem de Sa the state had been so prosperous, that though he had
+been Captain-general far beyond the term of his original appointment,
+Don Sebastian, on assuming the crown, continued him in office for two
+years longer, and then named Luiz de Vasconcellos to succeed him. That
+nobleman never reached Brazil. With him sailed a fleet of seven ships,
+bearing, besides the governor, sixty-nine Jesuit missionaries, and a
+number of orphan girls, whose parents had died of the plague, and whom
+the government was sending out to settle in Brazil. The fleet, in
+different divisions, fell in with French and English ships, and the
+Jesuits, save one, to use their own expression, received the crown of
+martyrdom, and the new governor was killed in action off Tercera. As
+soon as his death was known at Lisbon, Luiz de Brito de Almeida was
+appointed to his vacant office; and Mem de Sa just lived long enough to
+witness the arrival of his successor. Nobrega, who had begun that
+system, on which the singular government of the Jesuits in Paraguay was
+conducted, had died a few months before, so that Brazil was deprived
+nearly at once of the two ablest men that had yet been concerned in its
+government.</p>
+
+<p>But Luiz de Brito did not succeed to the government of all Brazil. It
+was judged proper to divide the colony into two captaincies, Rio de
+Janeiro being the capital of the southern division, which included Porto
+Seguro and every thing to the south of it; while Bahia remained the
+capital of the northern districts. There Luiz de Brito fixed his
+residence, and Doctor Antonio Salerna was appointed governor of the
+south. But this division was soon found inconvenient, and the two parts
+were re-united<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> about 1578, the year in which a new governor, Diego
+Lauren&ccedil;o da Viega, arrived.</p>
+
+<p>This was the year when the loss of Don Sebastian in Africa threw
+Portugal into the hands of Spain. King Philip, eager to annex that
+kingdom for ever to his crown, offered Brazil, with the title of King,
+to Braganza if he would give up his claim to the crown of Portugal. But
+it was reserved for his descendant to achieve the independence of
+Brazil, and he refused it.</p>
+
+<p>The colony was at this period most flourishing, though not altogether
+able to do without occasional supplies from the mother country. But
+already the original mud-cottages, supported by frame-work and thatched
+with palm-leaves, of the first settlers, had given way to well built and
+handsome houses of stone and brick, covered with tiles as in Europe. The
+reconcave of Bahia had sixty-two churches, and upwards of seventy
+sugar-works: the land was well stocked with cattle, all the kinds of
+orange and lime trees introduced by Europeans had flourished. The
+country abounded in excellent native fruits, and the mandioc furnished
+never-failing stores of bread. Olinda partook of all these advantages,
+and was itself the best built and most populous town in Brazil. Rio de
+Janeiro had become a place only inferior in importance to the other two,
+its natural advantages being still greater, and the climate milder; nor
+were the other captaincies less prosperous.</p>
+
+<p>But the transfer of the crown into foreign hands changed the aspect of
+affairs in Brazil. Inferior to the Spanish American countries in mines,
+it was considered only of consequence as being occupied by Spanish
+subjects, and so forming a barrier against the intrusion of other
+nations.</p>
+
+<p>By this time the English had begun to trade on the coast of Brazil, and
+in 1577 Drake had passed through the Straits of Magellan in his
+memorable voyage round the world. His appearance in the southern seas
+alarmed Philip the Second, now King of Portugal as well as of Spain, and
+consequently Lord of Brazil. He attempted to form a colony and maintain
+a fort in the Straits, in order to prevent future navigators from
+passing; but of it nothing is left but the name, <i>Port Famine</i>, which
+attests the miserable fate of the colonists. The English commerce was
+also cut off in Brazil. Some vessels trading peaceably at San Vincente
+were attacked in the harbour by the Spaniards in superior force; one of
+the latter was sunk, and the English escaped next day. In 1686, the Earl
+of Cumberland fitted out an expedition, in which Raleigh served and
+Witherington was admiral, which entered the reconcave of Bahia and
+plundered it, remaining there six weeks, the city being only saved by
+the Indian archers. Baretto, the governor of Brazil, died the next year,
+and was succeeded by D. Antonio Barreiros the bishop, and Christovam de
+Barros as joint governors; and they were soon superseded by Francisco
+Giraldes: he, however, never arrived in the country, and Don Francisco
+de Souza was appointed in his stead.</p>
+
+<p>During his captaincy some search was made after mines by a descendant of
+Caramuru, who offered to discover where he had found the silver of which
+he had services in his house and chapel, on condition of receiving the
+title of Marques. This Philip refused to grant, and the secret, if
+indeed the man had one, died with him.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the celebrated Cavendish had made one voyage round the world,
+and had committed such ravages on the coast of Spanish America, as not
+even the atrocious habits of naval warfare in those days can excuse. In
+1591, he embarked in a second expedition, arrived in December on the
+coast of Brazil, and took Santos and burned San Vincente. The ships then
+sailed for the Straits, but were baffled in their attempt to pass, and
+returned to the coast of Brazil to obtain provisions. Cavendish, who had
+many great and good qualities, and who might certainly think it
+allowable to supply himself on an enemy's coast, made an attempt on
+Espiritu Santo, but by a mistake in executing his orders it failed, and
+he sailed for England, but died of a broken heart on the passage.</p>
+
+<p>The most remarkable expedition of the English to the coast of Brazil was
+that of Sir James Lancaster to Pernambuco. He had the command of three
+small vessels of 240, 120, and 60 tons. At Cape Blanco he learned that a
+rich carrack from India had been wrecked near Olinda, and that her cargo
+was safely stowed at Recife. He therefore fitted five out of near thirty
+small prizes to accompany him, and built a galley frigate to land with.
+He was also reinforced by Captain Vernon with two ships, a pinnace, and
+a prize, and then sailed direct for Recife, where they arrived in March,
+1595. On Good Friday of that year the town was taken with little
+resistance, and Lancaster permitted not the slightest disorder after the
+place was taken. He fortified the sandy isthmus which connects Recife
+with Olinda, and then proceeded at leisure to stow his ships with the
+goods found in the town, and hired the Dutch vessels lying in the port
+as store-ships. Some French privateers coming in, he also hired them
+with part of the booty to assist in the defence of the place, till the
+lading of the vessels should be completed. The Portuguese made several
+attempts to burn Lancaster's ships, which were all baffled by his
+prudence, and after remaining in possession of Recife twenty days he
+prepared to sail. However, on the very last day of his stay, some of his
+people, both English and French, having advanced too far in a sally
+against the Portuguese, were killed, and the enemy claimed a victory,
+which Lancaster being now ready for sea had no inclination to dispute.
+And this was the last attack made by the English on the coast of Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>But the French had renewed their attempts, and under Rifault and his
+successor De Vaux had succeeded in forming a settlement in the island of
+Maranham, 1611. And shortly afterwards Henry IV. sent Daniel de la
+Touche, Lord of La Rivardi&egrave;re<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>, to examine the country, in order to
+form a permanent colony. His report was favourable; and though on his
+return to France Henry was dead, an expedition of three ships,
+containing 500 men, was fitted out, and in 1612 they arrived on the
+island, speedily conciliated the natives, and the colony promised to
+thrive. But the court of Madrid quickly sent out orders to the governor
+of Brazil to attack the intruders. Various accidents prolonged the
+warfare, and it was not until 1618 that they were dislodged, and a
+permanent Portuguese colony formed. Its distance from the seat of
+government determined the court of Madrid to erect Maranham and Para
+into a separate state, of which the capital was fixed at San Luiz, a
+town and fort built by the French on the island.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the Dutch had formed a West Indian Company, trusting that they
+would thereby be able to annoy the court of Spain in their American
+possessions, as they had already done in the East Indies. In 1624, a
+fleet under Jacob Willekins and the famous Peter Heyne was fitted out
+for that purpose. The ships having been separated in a gale of wind,
+Willekins made the Morro de San Paulo, about forty miles south of Bahia,
+where he waited for the rest of the convoy. When it arrived he sailed
+boldly into the reconcave, and St. Salvador was taken almost without a
+struggle. Vandort, the Dutch general, immediately began to fortify the
+place, and proclamations being issued promising freedom and redress of
+wrongs to all who should submit, many Indians, negroes, and Jews
+instantly joined him. But the Portuguese, who had hoped that the Dutch
+had only come to plunder the city, seeing that they were sitting quietly
+down as in a permanent establishment, roused themselves, and after some
+little disagreement as to who should command them, pitched on the Bishop
+Don Marcos Texeira. He fixed his head-quarters on the Rio Vermelho. The
+Dutch were weakened by the departure of Willekins for Holland, and of
+Peter Heyne for Angola, the plan of the West India Company being to
+secure that settlement, in order to have a certain supply of slaves for
+their new conquests in Brazil. Dort had been killed, and there was no
+competent commander. The Bishop's troops harassed those of the city in
+every direction, and the Dutch were prepared to become an easy prey to
+Don Fadrique de Toledo, who had been sent from Spain with a strong force
+to recover the capital of Brazil. They capitulated, therefore, in May,
+1625, and conditioned for being sent to Holland with sufficient arms and
+their personal baggage, leaving the city and forts as they were.</p>
+
+<p>The next year, however, Peter Heyne returned to the reconcave. Every
+precaution was taken against him by the governor. Four large ships with
+men and artillery were placed to intercept him; but in his single ship,
+the rest of his squadron not being able to come up with him, ran in
+between two of them, sunk one, and compelled several others to strike:
+his own ship, however, grounded, and he burnt her. He added four ships
+to his own fleet, loaded four others with prize-goods, and burnt the
+rest. Nor was this his only success; for although the Dutch had been
+baffled in several attempts on the coast, they sent home prizes enough
+to be of national importance.</p>
+
+<p>But a conquest of infinitely more consequence was shortly made; that of
+Olinda, which, in 1630, was taken after a feeble resistance on the part
+of Matthias de Albuquerque. The Dutch general-in-chief was Henrik Loncq,
+the admiral was Peter Ardian, and Wardenburg commanded the troops. The
+latter landed at Pao Amarello, three leagues to the north, while the
+ships kept up a regular fire opposite to the place; consequently the
+Portuguese were surprised, and the towns and forts easily taken.</p>
+
+<p>But the country around continued to be the theatre of a most cruel
+predatory war, during which atrocious cruelties were committed by both
+parties, but chiefly by the Dutch; and while these things were going on,
+a number of negroes had escaped from time to time into the great
+palm-forests, about thirty leagues inland, and had multiplied so that
+they are said to have amounted to upwards of thirty thousand. These men
+were governed by a chief whom they called Zombi: they had some laws, a
+shadow of the Christian religion, and were agriculturists. They harassed
+the Portuguese, and added by their depredations to the general misery.</p>
+
+<p>At length the Dutch government sent out Count Maurice of Nassau, to take
+the command at Pernambuco. He arrived in 1537, and carried on the war so
+vigorously that the Portuguese retired out of the province. He also set
+about reforming the abuses which existed among the Dutch themselves at
+Recife, and having established himself firmly there, he sent one of his
+officers, Jan Koin, over to the coast of Africa, who took possession of
+St. Jorge da Mina, by which a supply of slaves was secured, and leaving
+a garrison there, returned to Recife. The next year, Maurice made an
+unsuccessful attack on St. Salvador. His fleet anchored in the bay of
+Tapagipe; but though he obtained at first some important posts, he was
+finally repulsed and returned with loss to Pernambuco. There he occupied
+himself in building a new town, and making the two first bridges that
+had yet been built in Portuguese America, besides planting trees, and
+improving the fortifications. In 1640 he sent the famous sea-warrior Jol
+into the reconcave, to lay it waste; and he accordingly burnt the whole
+of the sugar-works in the bay, while the Indians who were friendly to
+the Dutch, fell on the land-side of the captaincy, and harassed the
+unhappy settlers in an equal degree.</p>
+
+<p>At length the court of Madrid began to be alarmed for the safety of
+Brazil, and fitted out a large armament for its relief. Storms and
+sickness diminished it, ere it arrived, to nearly one half. That half
+arrived at Bahia, in 1640, under D. Jorge de Mascasentras, Marques de
+Monte Alvam. Before he had time either to make open war, or to
+negociate, the revolution in Portugal, which placed Braganza on the
+throne of his ancestors, took place. The viceroy, unjustly suspected of
+adhering to Spain, was sent home, and a commission, composed of
+Barbalho, Correa, and the bishop, appointed in his stead.</p>
+
+<p>One of the first acts of the restored Portuguese government was to make
+a ten years' truce with the Seven United States. But this did not
+prevent the continuance of hostilities in Brazil, and the other foreign
+possessions of Portugal. Serigipe was surprised, Maranham conquered, and
+Loanda in Angola and St. Thomas's taken.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding these successes, the Dutch government disapproved of
+Count Maurice's administration. Instead of sending home either to the
+States or the Company all the money and produce which he had gained in
+Brazil, he had laid out great part of it, as well as of his private
+fortune, in fortifying the mouths of rivers and harbours, particularly
+Recife, in repairing and beautifying the towns, and in other public
+works, which, looking forward to the permanent establishment of the
+Dutch in the country, he considered as absolutely necessary. He was
+accordingly recalled, and returned to Holland in 1644.</p>
+
+<p>After the departure of Maurice the tyranny of the Dutch became so
+intolerable, that the Portuguese began to rise against it almost
+universally.</p>
+
+<p>Maranham had already been wrested from their hands at the time of his
+returning, and that event seemed to be the signal for the long and
+calamitous struggle that ensued in Pernambuco and the neighbouring
+Captaincies. Joam Fernandes Vieyra, a native of Madeira, had, at a very
+early age, left his native island in hopes of bettering his fortune in
+Brazil. He had succeeded, and at the time we speak of, he was one of the
+richest Portuguese of Pernambuco, and highly esteemed by both his
+countrymen and the Dutch. Against the latter, however, he was animated
+both by patriotism and superstition. They oppressed his people, and they
+were heretics. After waiting for years for a proper opportunity to
+attempt their destruction, he seized the first months of Nassau's
+absence, and communicating his plans to none but to two friends, one of
+whom he commissioned to apply to the government of Bahia in person for
+succour, he waited patiently for an answer. This man, Andr&eacute; Vidal de
+Negreiros, executed his commission exactly, and shortly afterwards
+Antonio Diaz Cardozo, and sixty soldiers, were sent to Vieyra. He
+concealed them in the woods in the neighbourhood of his dwelling, called
+the Varzea, which was on the plain to the westward of the city, and then
+summoned the Indian chief Camaram and the Negro chief Henrique Diaz<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>,
+to his assistance, and communicated his designs to his neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>Early in 1645 the war began in earnest. The most shocking atrocities
+were committed by both parties, especially towards the Indians, who
+themselves as they were the most faithful allies, were also the most
+inveterate and cruel enemies. In the course of the struggle, which
+lasted until 1654, several leaders on both sides were slain, but none so
+remarkable as the Indian Camaram. He had been educated by the Jesuits;
+he understood Latin, wrote, read, and spoke Portuguese perfectly, but on
+all occasions of ceremony used an interpreter, that he might not in
+public do any thing imperfectly, and thereby derogate from the dignity
+of his chieftainship. When a number of Indians were taken among the
+Dutch, at one of the strong posts of the latter, a relation of Camaram's
+was found among them. These men had all been condemned to death. Camaram
+did not intercede for the life of his kinsman, but he saved his honour:
+he slew him with his own hand, and buried him decently. The rest were
+hanged by the common executioner, and left for the fowls of the air.</p>
+
+<p>At length this horrible warfare was ended. The two battles of the
+Gararapes<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>, had decided the fate of the Dutch in Brazil: but it was
+the co-operation of the fleet of the new Brazilian company that enabled
+Vieyra, who was the real commander in this war, although several
+military men of reputation, had, from time to time, had the nominal
+chieftainship, to reduce Recife, and on the 23d of January 1654, to
+present the keys of the city to the Royal Commander Francisco Beretto,
+and to restore to the crown of Portugal the empire of Brazil, after nine
+years of the most cruel war, during which the private fortune, and the
+determined spirit of individuals had sustained the conflict, generally
+without the aid, and often in direct opposition to the commands of the
+court. But men once determined on freedom, or on national independence,
+must in the end overcome all obstacles and vanquish every difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>While these things were going on in the northern provinces, the Jesuits
+had formed their singular establishments in Paraguay, and endeavoured to
+stop, or at least limit the slave hunting of the Portuguese in the
+interior, though without effect. The best part of the colony of St.
+Vincent's had been removed to St. Paul's, a settlement on the plain of
+Piratininga, and had flourished surprisingly. The people had become
+hardy, if not fierce. They had distinguished themselves by the courage
+and perseverance with which they had explored the country in search of
+mines, and the activity with which they had brought in slaves for the
+new settlements. The consciousness of their strength begot in them a
+longing for independence, and seizing the opportunity of the accession
+of the House of Braganza to the throne of Portugal, they attempted to
+set up a king for themselves. Their attempt was baffled by Amador Bueno
+de Ribiero, the very person they intended for their monarch, who, when
+the people shouted "Long live king Amador," cried out "Long live Joam
+IV." and, being swift of foot, ran and took refuge in the Benedictine
+convent; and the same day, as there was no alternative, Joam IV. was
+proclaimed by all the people.</p>
+
+<p>The low state to which Portugal was now reduced, was seen in its effects
+on the government of Brazil. When the appointed Governors, either on
+their own judgment, or in obedience to the orders of the court of
+Lisbon, attempted to carry any new measure into execution which the
+people disliked, it was seldom in their power to enforce it, and they
+could expect little assistance from home. The Jesuits had undertaken the
+defence of the Indians, and endeavoured by every means to restrain the
+practice of making slaves of them, and to mitigate the lot of such as
+were already enslaved. But the Franciscans and some other orders derived
+equal pecuniary benefit with the hunters from the sale of slaves, and
+therefore they opposed them with vehemence. Interest was on the side of
+the Friars, and the most disgraceful scenes took place in various
+captaincies between the parties, the Governors being either not able or
+not willing to interfere with effect.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime, however, the people became accustomed to canvass and to
+understand public questions; their governors began to respect them as a
+real part of the estate; and a value for independence, and a feeling
+that to attain it was in their own power, grew out of these disorders.</p>
+
+<p>Had it been possible to have purified their religion from some of its
+most superstitious observances, and to reform the moral habits of the
+people, the prosperity of the country would soon have been equal to its
+means; but wherever slavery is established it brings a twofold curse
+with it. It degrades both parties even where the slaves are imported.
+How much more then, as was the case here, when they were hunted on their
+own grounds, where all the details, disgusting and iniquitous as they
+are, of the seeking, capturing, and bending to the yoke, pass under the
+eye till the heart grows callous to the cry of the orphan, the grief of
+the widow, and the despair of the parent in being torn from whatever has
+been dear to them?</p>
+
+<p>The history of the Jesuit Vieyra's mission to Maranham is as humiliating
+to human nature, as his sincere exertions in the cause of the suffering
+Indians is creditable to himself; but neither his exertions, nor the
+royal authority, could baffle the selfish cruelty and avarice of the
+people of that captaincy; they broke out into open rebellion in defence
+of their detestable practices, and even when they returned to obedience,
+there was a compromise between humanity and avarice, to which the
+Indians were again sacrificed.</p>
+
+<p>Rio de Janeiro had enjoyed a greater degree of tranquillity during the
+eighty years since its foundation than any other settlement, and its
+trade had increased together with its population; but the southern part
+of its jurisdiction was little more peaceable than Maranham, and not at
+all more inclined to listen to the remonstrances of the friends of the
+Indians. The Paulistas were the most difficult of all to manage; they
+had been the most active and daring of all that hunted either for slaves
+or for mines, and they were not willing to participate with others, far
+less to resign the advantages they had gained by unwearied labour and
+great sacrifices. Their conduct on the restoration of Portugal had
+evinced a desire of more than the freedom of a colony, and their
+neighbours were little less disposed for independence than themselves.
+Santos, and even Rio, had joined them, and had shewn a disposition to
+depose the governor appointed by the crown; and nothing but the
+unimpeachable character and firm conduct of Salvador Correa de Sa e
+Benevides (1658) prevented him from falling a sacrifice to that
+disposition. Bahia continued to be the capital of the Brazilian states,
+and its inhabitants proceeded to beautify it with churches, and
+convents, and nunneries, while they defied the spirit of Christianity by
+the importation of African, as well as the kidnapping Indian slaves.
+Pernambuco was still undergoing the miserable effects of the long and
+desultory war it had sustained; all the bands of government had been
+loosed during that disastrous period; law and justice had fallen into
+disuse; and had there not been a redeeming virtue in the free spirit
+that lived on in spite of the evils among which it had sprung, its very
+emancipation from a foreign power might have been regretted. The negroes
+who had escaped to the Palmares, and whose depredations had been
+disregarded in comparison with the evils of a foreign government, had
+become a real source of ill to the Pernambucans. Although they
+cultivated maize, and mandioc, and plaintains, they wanted every other
+supply. They therefore robbed the Creoles of their cattle, their sugar,
+their manufactured goods, and even of their Mulatto daughters and female
+slaves; till at length the government resolved to free the country of
+them, and called in the aid of a Paulista regiment for the purpose. Ten
+thousand of the negroes bearing arms had assembled in their chief city,
+which was surrounded by wooden walls, leaving the lesser ones
+uninhabited. But their enemies had the advantage of cannon against them,
+and of supplies of every kind; yet once the negroes beat off their
+assailants. But numbers overpowered them, and being weakened by famine,
+their city was forced, and the inmates seized as slaves. Zombi, however,
+and the most resolute of his followers, threw themselves from a high
+rock when they perceived their condition desperate. The Portuguese
+abused their victory, and murdered the rest.</p>
+
+<p>But there was an evil that affected Brazil generally&mdash;the too much and
+the too little power of the governors. They had too much power, if any
+appeal lay from them&mdash;too little, if they were absolute for the term of
+their government. They were also virtually free from responsibility;
+their opportunities, nay, their temptations to extortion were almost
+irresistible; and, to crown all, the corrupt administration of the laws
+kept pace with the vices and the irregularity of the government. In vain
+had the wisest regulations been made, and the most just decrees issued.
+The judges were in many cases parties concerned; they were so in all
+cases where Indians and negroes were the objects of their judgment, for
+they were possessors of both. Their salaries were insufficient, their
+fees arbitrary. What wonder then if the administration was corrupt!</p>
+
+<p>The cultivation of sugar and cotton had proceeded silently amidst all
+this confusion. The discovery of the gold and diamond mines assisted the
+government, both in Brazil and in the mother country, to make a stand in
+the midst of the eminent peril which threatened, in consequence of the
+losses sustained in the east, while at home there was a scanty and
+impoverished population, ruined manufactures, and, above all, a neglect
+of agriculture, that rendered Portugal dependent on foreigners for corn.
+Every thing was wanted; there was nothing to return; and at the
+beginning of the eighteenth century, Brazil may be truly said to have
+saved Portugal, by covering with her precious metals the excessive
+balance that was against her in every branch of commerce, in every
+department of government.</p>
+
+<p>Yet, though absolute ruin was averted, the weakness of the crown
+rendered it impossible to defend its foreign possessions from the
+attacks of a daring enemy. In 1710, a French squadron, under Duclerc,
+appeared off Rio de Janeiro, but not daring to pass the forts, sailed
+on, and after making several attempts to land a force at the different
+inlets, where he was deterred by the appearance of the militia of the
+country, succeeded at Guaratiba, between thirty and forty miles from
+the city, and thence he marched upon it with about one thousand marines.
+The governor, Francisco Castro de Moraes, made no attempt to stop him
+until his arrival at the city. There the first check the enemy met was
+from F. Francisco de Menezes, a Trinitarian friar, who appeared every
+where, and did what the governor, who remained quietly intrenched in a
+flat space, where the place of the Rosario now is, between two hills,
+ought to have done. The French having divided, one party attacked the
+palace, but the students of the college defended it successfully; and
+after a short, but desperate struggle, the French were overpowered, and
+the victory disgraced by the inhuman conduct of the Portuguese. Duclerc
+and his people were imprisoned and harshly treated. Duclerc himself is
+said to have been murdered in his bed.</p>
+
+<p>The next year drew on Rio de Janeiro a signal punishment for these
+proceedings. The famous Duguay Trouin undertook to inflict it; and
+accordingly, in August, 1711, one year after Duclerc's adventure, he
+arrived off the coast, and taking advantage of a fog, entered the bay,
+notwithstanding the fire of the forts.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese government had notice of his design, and had sent out
+stores and ammunition to meet the attack, and had appointed Gasper da
+Costa commander of the troops. But the sudden appearance of the French
+actually within the harbour, seems to have palsied the understanding of
+every person on shore, whose business it should have been to oppose
+them, and the forts and the city were given up almost without a
+struggle.</p>
+
+<p>It would, however, have been impossible for the French to maintain
+themselves in Rio; therefore Duguay Trouin, after refreshing his people,
+ransomed the city for 600,000 cruzadoes. Bad weather alone prevented him
+from laying waste the reconcave of Bahia, as he had done Rio: but he had
+fulfilled the ostensible purpose of his voyage by avenging the treatment
+of Duclerc and his people, and returned to France early in 1712.</p>
+
+<p>These circumstances had awakened the greatest anxiety on account of
+Brazil in the cabinet of Lisbon: and at the peace of Utrecht, 1713,
+every precaution was adopted by the Portuguese ministers to avoid any
+expression that might seem to admit of a free trade by any power
+whatever to Brazil, notwithstanding the agreements to that effect
+actually existing at the time. Disputes without end arose between
+Portugal and Spain concerning the colonies adjoining to the Rio de la
+Plata, and it was especially stipulated that no other power,
+particularly England, should be allowed to form settlements there on
+account of the facilities such settlements might afford for smuggling
+the precious metals out of the country. These had now become the first
+object in Brazil. St. Paul's had been erected into a city, and the
+district of the mines had been formed into a captaincy: the inhabitants
+of the coast flocked to the interior, where new towns were daily
+springing up; all were desirous of a share in that lottery where the
+prizes were so enormous, that the great preponderance of blanks was
+overlooked. Great inconvenience must have been felt by the early
+adventurers to the mines: for so many hands were employed in searching
+for gold, that few remained to cultivate the soil, and provide the
+necessaries of life. Yet that insatiable thirst of gold is a stimulus
+which has led to useful and to honourable things: it is not the love of
+the metal, but the possession of it gives power, and that is the real
+object of most men's ambition: it is certainly that of the ambition of
+all nations, and this object is held legitimate: we account those base
+or wicked who seek the means; we admire those who attain the end. The
+philosophic historian and the poet are alike ready to condemn the man
+who first dug the ore from the mine: the panegyric in prose and in verse
+is lavished on the hero and the patron. But gold furnished the means for
+the hero's conquests and the patron's liberality, and gold, or the worth
+of gold, is the object of both; whether in the form of continued power,
+or of that fame which patronage can bring. Sad indeed has been the waste
+of human life in searching for gold: but have all the mines together
+consumed more men than the single revolutionary war? And have not the
+religious contests among Christians, and their persecutions and
+mutilations and burnings cost many more? I would not justify the gold
+finders; their actions were horrible, their oppressions atrocious; but
+let them have justice: the stimulus was great; urged on by it, they
+performed great things, they braved cold, and hunger, and fatigue, and
+persecution, and death; they persevered, they opened the way to unknown
+lands, they laid the foundations for future civilisation in countries
+which will have reason to bless their discoveries, when the effect of
+their evil deeds, as well as the memory of the brutal customs of the
+savages they so unjustly oppressed, shall have passed away.</p>
+
+<p>But I have neither space nor inclination to follow their adventures, and
+must refer to Mr. Southey's elaborate and excellent account of them.
+Daniel Defoe alone could have so handled the subject as to make
+delightful so dull and so sad a tale. I am but a looker on to whom the
+actions of the present are more interesting than the past, but yet am
+not insensible to the influence that the elder days have had upon us.</p>
+
+<p>Pernambuco had during the half century which had elapsed since the
+expulsion of the Dutch had time to recruit. The sugar plantations had
+reappeared, and the commerce of Recife had become extremely important.
+The merchants, and especially those from Europe, had settled there, and
+the town had increased till it became the second of Brazil; while Olinda
+gradually declined, having few inhabitants besides priests and the
+representatives of the old families of the province, who might be called
+its nobility: still Recife was but a village until, in 1710, it
+solicited and obtained the royal assent to its becoming a town, and
+having a camera or municipal council to govern its internal affairs. The
+jealousy of the people of Olinda and the other old Brazilians was
+violently excited by this concession, which they conceived would raise
+the plebeian traders and foreigners to an equality with themselves.
+After several tumultuous meetings on the subject, three of the ten
+parishes belonging to Olinda were assigned to Recife, and the governor,
+fearing to set up the pillar which marks a township openly, had it
+erected in the night. Fresh disturbances ensued, in which some of the
+magistrates were concerned, and there were not wanting voices to exclaim
+that the Pernambucans had shown they could shake off the strong chains
+of the Dutch, and that they could as easily shake off others and govern
+themselves. The seditious magistrates were arrested and thrown into
+prison. The soldiers were employed to disarm the people; but they had
+now advanced too far to be easily reduced. The governor was fired at and
+dangerously wounded, and proofs were not wanting that the judge and the
+bishop had at least consented to the attempt on his life. The most
+serious disturbances followed: the inhabitants of the whole district
+took up arms, some blood was shed in the course of their contentions
+with the soldiers, and Sebastian de Castro, the governor, weakened both
+in body and mind, was induced to fly to Bahia for safety. Six of the
+chief Pernambucans were now appointed to exercise the functions of a
+provisional government till orders should be received from Lisbon, and
+all Europeans were deprived of their offices and commissions.</p>
+
+<p>But the bishop, who had been at Paraiba since the time when De Castro
+was wounded, now returned to claim his office as governor on the removal
+of the former one. He began to exercise his authority in the king's
+name, and his first act was to declare a general pardon. But he, however
+appears to have been a timid man: willing yet not daring to join the
+party who wished to shake off the yoke of Portugal, and by his
+vacillating conduct betraying both his friends in that party, and the
+trust reposed in him by the crown. At length, in 1711, these
+disturbances were quieted by a new governor, Felix Jose Machado de
+Mendon&ccedil;a. Brazil was not yet ripe for independence; nor indeed could so
+small and ill-peopled a state as Pernambuco have maintained its freedom
+even for a year unconnected with the other captaincies. While these
+things were going on in the captaincies of Brazil, the Jesuits were
+labouring in the interior to reclaim the Indians, with success far
+beyond the apparent means, and some towns, which have since become of
+importance, were built on the coast and on the shores of the Plata,
+particularly Monte Video, in 1733; but the border war, between the
+Spaniards and Portuguese, which was waged on account of these
+settlements, disquieted the neighbourhood for a time. Its importance,
+however, was soon forgotten in the disturbances caused by the treaty of
+division between Spain and Portugal, which forcing the Indians who had
+been reclaimed to emigrate, roused them to a vigorous but short and
+useless resistance, which only began the evils that the Jesuit missions
+were destined to perish under.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese government, under the administration of Carvalho,
+afterwards Marquis of Pombal, had begun to attend to, and attempt to
+reform the abuses which existed throughout Brazil, but particularly in
+the newly founded captaincies and settlements, when the war with France
+and Spain broke out in 1762. For a time defence against a foreign enemy
+superseded every other consideration. The first act of hostility in the
+western world was the seizing of the Portuguese settlement of Columbia,
+in the Plata, by the governor of Buenos Ayres, before the squadron
+despatched by the governor of Brazil, Gomez Freyre, could arrive to
+protect it. That squadron consisted of the Lord Clive, of 64 guns, an
+English ship commanded by Capt. Macnamara; the Ambuscade, of 40 guns, in
+which Penrose, the poet, served as lieutenant; and the Gloria, of 38
+guns. The Spanish ships retired before Macnamara, and he ran under the
+guns of the forts of Colonia, in order to retake the place. He had
+nearly succeeded in silencing the batteries, when, by accident or
+negligence, the ship took fire; the enemy renewed their fire;
+three-fourths of the crew of the Lord Clive, among which was the
+captain, were drowned. The other ships were nearly destroyed and obliged
+to retreat; but owing to the neglect of the Spaniards, they were able to
+refit and return to Rio. And this was the most remarkable action of the
+war beyond the Atlantic, and the first in which the English
+distinguished themselves in the defence of Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>Pombal, meantime, having resolved on the suppression of the order of
+Jesuits, overlooked, in the ardour with which he pursued that measure,
+the important services they had rendered, and were daily rendering, to
+one of his favourite objects, namely, the improvement of the condition
+of the Indians. Their plan of discipline, indeed, hitherto had kept
+their pupils rather in a state of childish innocence than of manly
+improvement. Their fault was, that in order to secure obedience, they
+had stopped short of what they might have effected. Their dominion was
+an Utopia; and had it been possible to shut out every European and every
+wild Indian, it might have lasted. But such artificial polities can
+never be of long duration. Some convulsions either from without or from
+within must end them, and that with a more complete ruin than could
+befal states less curiously framed. But the well-intentioned labours of
+the missionaries had produced one decided good effect,&mdash;the habits of
+savage life were abandoned, and the advantages of agriculture and
+manufactures had been felt. The rock on which the education of the
+Indians split, was the community of goods. When a man has no property,
+but depends for the supply of his daily wants upon the providence of
+others, he has no incitement to particular exertion. The stimulus to
+industry cannot exist where a man has no hope of growing richer, no fear
+of becoming poorer, no anxiety about the provision of his family. His
+judgment in the portioning and disposing of his property is never called
+forth; all the qualities and virtues that arise out of the practice of
+domestic economy lie dormant, and the man remains an infant. It would
+have been easy to remedy this, by allowing the Indians to possess
+private stock, and to provide for their own families after the first
+generation. The newly reclaimed did require to be provided for, but the
+children growing up in the Aldeas might have been intrusted with their
+own property. They would have become men; and when the removal of their
+spiritual fathers took place, that wide and deep desolation would not
+have overwhelmed them, nor would Paraguay have gone back as it has done
+towards a savage state.</p>
+
+<p>The Jesuits of Brazil were expelled in 1760, in the most cruel and
+arbitrary manner. Those of the Spanish American colonies eight years
+later. Whatever might have been their faults, or even their crimes, in
+other countries, in these their conduct had been exemplary. They had
+been the protectors of a persecuted race, the advocates of mercy, the
+founders of civilisation; and their patience under their unmerited
+sufferings forms not the least honourable trait in their character.</p>
+
+<p>The history of Brazil, for the next thirty years, is composed of the
+mismanagement and decay of the Jesuit establishments; the enlargement of
+the mining districts, particularly in the direction of Mato Grosso; some
+disputes with the French on the frontier of Cayenne; and the more
+peaceful occupations of opening roads, and the introduction of new
+branches of commerce, and the improvement of the old.</p>
+
+<p>This tranquillity was for a moment interrupted by a conspiracy in the
+province of Minas Geraes, headed by an officer named Joaquim Jose de
+Silva Xavier, commonly called Tiradentes. The project of the
+conspirators was to form an independent republic in Minas, and, if
+possible, to induce Rio de Janeiro to unite with it. But their measures
+were most inadequate for the end proposed, and their conduct so
+imprudent, that, although there was a pretty general feeling of
+discontent on account of the taxes and some other grievances, the
+conspirators were all seized before they had formed anything like a
+party capable of resistance, much less of beginning the meditated
+revolution.</p>
+
+<p>The direct effects upon Brazil of the first thirteen years of the
+revolutionary war in Europe were confined to some slight disputes
+regarding the boundaries of the Portuguese and French Guiana, and
+concerning the limits of which, there was an article in Lord
+Cornwallis's negotiations with France, or rather the peace of Amiens in
+1802.</p>
+
+<p>The indirect effects were greater. Being a good deal left to themselves,
+the colonists had leisure to discover what sort of cultivation and crops
+suited best with the climate, and were fittest for the market; and some
+branches of industry were introduced, and others improved, to the great
+advantage of the province. Foreign ships, and even fleets, had also
+begun to resort thither<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>: so that, though the ports had as yet been
+closed against foreign traders, the entrance of men of war, and such
+merchant ships as could find no others to refit in, introduced a virtual
+freedom, which it would afterwards have been impossible not to have
+confirmed.</p>
+
+<p>The court of Portugal meanwhile, as if infatuated by the negotiations of
+France, consented to buy a disgraceful neutrality at the price of
+1,000,000 of livres or 40,000<i>l.</i> per month, besides granting free
+entrance to French woollens into the kingdom.</p>
+
+<p>It was in vain that frequent representations were made to the ministry
+at Lisbon on the subject; that the armament at Bayonne, and the refusal
+of Spain to forbid the passage of French troops through her territories,
+were pointed out. The Portuguese forces were marched to the sea-coast,
+as if they apprehended an invasion from England; thus leaving the
+kingdom defenceless on the land side, and the ports were shut against
+English commerce, by a proclamation, dated 20th October, 1807. But the
+importance of Portugal to England, as neutral ground, or, in the event
+of a French government in Spain, as a point whence to attack the great
+enemy, was such, that the resentment which at another time would
+certainly have been openly declared, was suppressed; but a strong
+squadron was always kept up off the coast, partly to watch the
+proceedings on shore, partly to prevent the Portuguese vessels from
+coming out of port, and joining the French and Spaniards.</p>
+
+<p>While this system of watchfulness was kept up in Europe, the English
+ministry was not less attentive to the designs of France on the South
+American colonies. As long as Spain and Portugal continued to pay the
+enormous price in money for their neutrality, which France had demanded,
+the views of Napoleon were better answered than they could have been by
+the possession of all their territory and all their colonies. But the
+moment in which they should become unable or unwilling to pay that
+price, would of course be that of aggression and invasion. So early as
+1796, Mr. Pitt had contemplated the advantages that must arise to
+Britain from the possession of a port in South America, and particularly
+in the Rio de la Plata, nor did he ever afterwards lose sight of it.
+Some circumstances occurred in December, 1804, to draw his attention,
+particularly towards the subject, inasmuch as he had intelligence that
+France was about to attempt to seize on one of the Spanish settlements
+on the first opportunity. But we were then at peace with Spain, and
+however willing to prevent such an aggression on the part of France, and
+to assist General Miranda in his intended expedition to South America,
+it was impossible to co-operate with him, as he earnestly pressed the
+ministry to do, although the advantage to England of securing such a
+market for her manufactures was clearly perceived. Among the officers
+who had been most confidentially consulted by Mr. Pitt, on the
+practicability of obtaining a settlement on the La Plata, was Sir Home
+Popham; and it was probably his knowledge of the views so long
+entertained by that minister, that induced him to take the hazardous
+step, of leaving the Cape of Good Hope so soon after it had been
+occupied by the English forces, in 1806, and taking Buenos Ayres without
+orders to that effect. His immediate motive was, the intelligence he had
+procured, that the squadron of the French admiral, Guillaumez, had
+intentions of touching on the coast of Brazil, entering the La Plata,
+and, if possible, seizing, or forming a settlement there; and some North
+Americans whom he had met, encouraged the undertaking, by observing,
+that to throw open the ports of South America would be a common benefit
+to all commercial nations, but particularly to England.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p>
+
+<p>In 1806, the demonstrations of hostilities against Portugal on the part
+of France were so evident, that Lord Rosslyn was despatched thither on a
+special mission, in which Lord St. Vincent and General Simcoe were
+joined with him. His instructions from Mr. Fox, then prime minister,
+were to lay before the ministry of Lisbon, the imminent danger which
+threatened the country, and to offer assistance in men, money, and
+stores from England, to put Portugal in a state of defence, in case the
+government should decide on a vigorous and effective resistance. If, on
+the other hand, Portugal should think itself too weak to contend with
+France, the idea that had once occurred to King Don Alfonso of
+emigrating to Brazil, and there establishing the capital of the empire,
+was to be revived, and promises made of assistance and protection for
+that purpose. If, however, Portugal insisted on rejecting assistance in
+either case, the troops under General Simcoe were to be landed, the
+strong forts on the Tagus occupied by them, and the fleet was to enter
+the river and secure the Portuguese ships and vessels, taking care to
+impress the government and people with the feeling that this was done
+from regard to the nation, and by no means for the sake of selfish
+aggrandisement on the part of England. It appears, however, that the
+French preparations for the invasion were not at that time so far
+advanced as had been imagined, and at the earnest entreaty of the court
+of Lisbon, the troops and the fleet were withdrawn from the Tagus.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th of August, the next year, however, (1807) Mr. Rayneval, the
+French charg&eacute; d'affaires at Lisbon, received orders from his court to
+declare to the Prince Regent of Portugal, that if by the first of
+September he did not declare war against England, and send back the
+English minister, recalling the Portuguese ambassador from London, and
+did not seize all the English residents, confiscate their property, and
+shut the ports of the kingdom against the English; and lastly, if he did
+not, without delay, unite his armies and fleets with those of the rest
+of the continent against England, he had orders to demand his passports
+and to declare war.</p>
+
+<p>The Conde de Barca, then prime minister, was certainly aware of the
+preparations of the French government. But with that obstinate blindness
+which sometimes seems to possess men like a fate, he persisted in
+regarding them only as measures to intimidate and harass England. This
+nobleman had been ambassador at the court of St. Petersburg, and on his
+recall to take the first place in the cabinet at Lisbon, he was ordered
+to go by sea to London, and thence to Portugal, but he chose to perform
+the journey by way of Paris, where he saw and conversed both with
+Napoleon and Talleyrand. There cannot be the least doubt but that he was
+duped by those able men. Many considered him as a traitor. But the
+vanity of the Conde, who always said he had gone to judge of these men
+by his own eyes, though it makes him weaker, makes him less wicked, and
+was, perhaps, the true spring of his actions. He it was who carried the
+measures for the detention of the English, the confiscation of their
+property, and the shutting the ports against English commerce: adopting,
+in short, the whole of the continental system. The very day before Junot
+was to reach Lisbon, however, a Paris newspaper, written in anticipation
+of the event, announced that "<i>The House of Braganza no longer
+reigned</i>," and that its members were reduced to the common herd of
+ex-princes, &amp;c., giving no very favourable description of them, and
+holding out no very flattering expectations for the future. This
+completely opened the Prince Regent's eyes, and he consented to that
+step, which D. John IV. and Don Jos&eacute; had contemplated, namely, the
+transferring the seat of his empire to his Transatlantic possessions.</p>
+
+<p>This was in the month of November, 1807, but the events of that month,
+the most interesting that had occurred to Portugal since the revolution
+that had placed Braganza on the throne of his ancestors, will be best
+understood by the following extracts from the despatches received by the
+British ministry from Lord Strangford and from Sir Sydney Smith at the
+time. On the 29th November, 1807, His Lordship writes, after mentioning
+the Prince's departure for Brazil:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I had frequently and distinctly stated to the cabinet of Lisbon, that
+in agreeing not to resent the exclusion of British commerce from the
+ports of Portugal, His Majesty had exhausted the means of forbearance;
+that in making that concession to the peculiar circumstances of the
+Prince Regent's situation, His Majesty had done all that friendship and
+the remembrance of ancient alliance could justly require; but that a
+single step beyond the line of modified hostility, thus most
+reluctantly consented to, must necessarily lead to the extremity of
+actual war.</p>
+
+<p>"The Prince Regent, however, suffered himself for a moment to forget
+that, in the present state of Europe, no country could be permitted to
+be an enemy to England with impunity, and that however much His Majesty
+might be disposed to make allowance for the deficiency of means
+possessed by Portugal of resistance to the power of France, neither his
+own dignity nor the interests of his people would permit His Majesty to
+accept that excuse for a compliance with the full extent of her
+unprincipled demands. On the 8th inst. His Royal Highness was induced to
+sign an order for the detention of the few British subjects, and of the
+inconsiderable portion of British property which yet remained at Lisbon.
+On the publication of this order, I caused the arms of England to be
+removed from the gates of my residence, demanded my passports, presented
+a final remonstrance against the recent conduct of the court of Lisbon,
+and proceeded to the squadron commanded by Sir Sydney Smith, which
+arrived off the coast of Portugal some days after I had received my
+passports, and which I joined on the 17th inst.</p>
+
+<p>"I immediately suggested to Sir Sydney Smith the expediency of
+establishing the most rigorous blockade at the mouth of the Tagus; and I
+had the high satisfaction of afterwards finding that I had thus
+anticipated the intentions of His Majesty: for despatches (which I
+received on the 23d) directing me to authorise that measure, in case the
+Portuguese government should pass the bounds which His Majesty had
+thought fit to set to his forbearance, and attempt to take any further
+step injurious to the honour or interests of Great Britain."&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>----"I resolved, therefore, to proceed forthwith to ascertain the effect
+produced by the blockade of Lisbon, and to propose to the Portuguese
+government, as the only condition upon which that blockade should cease,
+the alternative (stated by you) either of surrendering the fleet to His
+Majesty, or of immediately employing it to remove the Prince Regent and
+his family to the Brazils."&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I accordingly requested an audience of the Prince Regent, together with
+due assurances of protection and security; and upon receiving His Royal
+Highness's answers I proceeded to Lisbon on the 27th, in His Majesty's
+sloop Confiance, bearing a flag of truce. I had immediately most
+interesting communications with the court of Lisbon, the particulars of
+which shall be detailed in a future despatch. It suffices to mention in
+this place, that the Prince Regent wisely directed all his apprehensions
+to a French army, and all his hopes to a British fleet: that he received
+the most explicit assurances from me that His Majesty would generously
+overlook those acts of unwilling and momentary hostility to which His
+Royal Highness's consent had been extorted; and that I promised to His
+Royal Highness, on the faith of my sovereign, that the British squadron
+before the Tagus should be employed to protect his retreat from Lisbon,
+and his voyage to the Brazils.</p>
+
+<p>"A decree was published yesterday, in which the Prince Regent announced
+his intention of retiring to the city of Rio de Janeiro until the
+conclusion of a general peace, and of appointing a regency to transact
+the administration of government at Lisbon, during His Royal Highness's
+absence from Europe."</p>
+
+<p>Sir Sydney Smith writes on the first of December the following letter to
+the admiralty:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>His Majesty's Ship Hibernia, 22 leagues west of the Tagus, Dec. 1, 1807.</p>
+
+<p>"Sir,</p>
+
+<p>"In a former despatch, dated 22d November, with a postscript of the
+26th, I conveyed to you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty, the proofs contained in various documents of the
+Portuguese government, being so much influenced by terror of the French
+arms as to have acquiesced to certain demands of France operating
+against Great Britain. The distribution of the Portuguese force was made
+wholly on the coast, while the land side was left totally unguarded.
+British subjects of all descriptions were detained; and it therefore
+became necessary to inform the "Portuguese government, that the case
+had arisen, which required, in obedience to my instructions, that I
+should declare the Tagus in a state of blockade."</p>
+
+<p>(<i>Sir Sydney then repeats part of Lord Strangford's despatch.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>"On the morning of the 29th, the Portuguese fleet came out of the Tagus
+with His Royal Highness the Prince of Brazil, and the whole of the royal
+family of Braganza on board, together with many of his faithful
+councillors and adherents, as well as other persons attached to his
+present fortunes.</p>
+
+<p>"This fleet of eight sail of the line, four frigates, two brigs, and one
+schooner<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>, with a crowd of large armed merchant ships arranged itself
+under the protection of that of His Majesty, while the firing of a
+reciprocal salute of twenty-one guns announced the friendly meeting of
+those, who but the day before were on terms of hostility, the scene
+impressing every beholder (except the French army on the hills) with the
+most lively emotions of gratitude to Providence, that there yet existed
+a power in the world able, as well as willing, to protect the
+oppressed.&mdash;I have, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p class="r">"W. SYDNEY SMITH."</p>
+
+<p>Such are the public accounts transmitted by foreigners to their court of
+one of the most singular transactions that has occurred in the history
+of kingdoms and of courts. Yet such was the state of Europe at that
+time, so momentous the struggle between the principals in the mighty
+warfare that was going on, that the ancient house of Braganza left the
+seat of its ancestors, to seek shelter and security beyond the Atlantic,
+almost without notice and with less ceremony than had formerly attended
+an excursion to its country palaces.</p>
+
+<p>The French Government had waited to invade Portugal till that unhappy
+country had exhausted its treasury, in the payment of the enormous sums
+demanded as the price of its neutrality. French influence had removed
+the Portuguese troops from the mountain passes, where they might have
+opposed the entrance of French armies, and the Prince Regent only
+declared his adherence to the continental system, and arrested the
+English on the simultaneous entrance of three Imperial and Spanish
+armies.</p>
+
+<p>Junot invaded Algarve and passed the Zezere, at the same moment when
+Solano threw himself upon Oporto, and Carafa occupied Alentejo and
+Algarve.&mdash;Under these circumstances, the conduct of the ministry, though
+not courageous, was natural, and it was as natural when Lord Strangford
+returned to Lisbon, which, perhaps, he ought not to have left, that the
+last council held in that capital should decide on the emigration of the
+court to Brazil. Had it remained, and Portugal had become a French
+province, the Prince and all his family were prisoners in the hands of
+one who had respected no crown; and besides, England had intimated that
+in that case she must occupy Brazil for her own security. By emigrating
+to Brazil the Prince retained in his hands the largest and richest
+portion of his domains, and secured at least, the personal freedom and
+safety of his family. At the end therefore of the last meeting of his
+councillors the Prince called his confidential servants<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a>, and ordered
+them to prepare every thing <i>in secret</i> for the embarkation of the court
+on the next night but one. One of these had been actually ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot, and on the next morning to have a breakfast
+ready for him at a house half-way between Sacavem and Lisbon. This man
+had smuggled his family on board one of the ships, he had been night and
+day getting provisions, plate, books, jewels, whatever could be moved on
+board the fleet, and, remaining to the last, was again ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot: but he was fortunate enough to secure a boat
+to carry him off to the fleet, leaving papers, money, and even his hat
+behind him on the beach.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the picture of the hasty embarkation, given by some of the
+attendants on the royal family.</p>
+
+<p>The fleets had no sooner got off the land than they encountered a
+violent gale of wind, but by the 5th of December they were all collected
+again; on that day Sir Sidney Smith having supplied the ships with every
+thing necessary for their safety, and having convoyed them to lat. 37&deg;
+47' north, and long. 14&deg; 17' west, left them to go on under the
+protection of the Marlborough, Capt. Moore, with a broad pennant, the
+London, Monarch and Bedford.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> They proceeded without farther accident
+to the coast of Brazil, and landed at Bahia on the 21st of January,
+1808.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Conde da Ponte was at that time governor of Bahia, and is said to
+have been very popular<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>: he had married a lady of high family who was
+not less so, and she possessed, besides the manners of the court, a
+considerable portion of both beauty and talent.</p>
+
+<p>The reception of the royal party was rendered so agreeable to the Prince
+by the governor and his lady, that he remained at St. Salvador's a
+month, every day being a festival, and then left it with regret. In
+commemoration of the visit, a spot was cleared near the fortress of St.
+Peter's, and commanding a fine view over the whole of the beautiful bay,
+and there an obelisk was erected with an inscription, stating its
+purpose, and the surrounding ground was planted and converted into a
+public garden.</p>
+
+<p>But, however agreeable a residence at Bahia might have been to His Royal
+Highness, the place is too insecure for the purposes for which he
+emigrated. If it is besieged by sea, and the smallest land force gets
+possession of the neck of land between the Cape and Rio Vermelha, it is
+actually without the means of subsistence. The entrance of the bay is so
+wide, that nothing, can prevent ships from going in when they please.
+Whereas, the harbour of Rio is easily defended, it not being possible
+for ships to enter without being exposed to the fire of the forts.
+Besides, it has resources which Bahia has not, being at all times able
+to communicate with the rich province of the Minas, which, besides the
+metals, abounds in corn, mandioc, cotton, coffee, cattle, hogs, and even
+the coarse manufactures such as cotton, &amp;c., for the use of the slaves
+and for ordinary purposes.</p>
+
+<p>Rio was therefore the best adapted for the asylum of the illustrious
+house of Braganza, and, on the 26th February, His Royal Highness sailed
+from Bahia, and arrived in Rio de Janeiro on the 7th March.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the French troops had occupied Portugal, and Junot, who
+commanded in chief, and had fixed his head-quarters at Lisbon, began by
+disarming the inhabitants, and war between France and Portugal was
+formally announced, eight days before the signature of the treaty of
+Fontainbleau, by which Portugal was divided into three great feoffs,
+which, under the King of Etruria, the Prince of Peace Godoy, and a
+Braganza, if he would submit to the conditions<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>, were to be subject
+to the crown of Spain.</p>
+
+<p>Junot published a proclamation flattering the people in proportion to
+his oppressions and exactions, and nearly ruined them by a forced war
+contribution of nearly 3,000,000<i>l.</i>&mdash;In addition to this a conscription
+of 40,000 men was raised, and thus the means which Portugal possessed,
+and which, if timely used, might have saved her from invasion were
+turned against her.</p>
+
+<p>The first ministry appointed on the arrival of the court at Rio,
+consisted of Don Rodriguez de Souza Continho, Don Juan d'Almeida, the
+Visconde d'Anadia, and the Marquez d'Aguiar.</p>
+
+<p>The first measure of the court was to publish a manifesto, setting forth
+the conduct of France towards Portugal, from the beginning of the
+revolution; the efforts of the government to preserve its neutrality;
+and detailing all the events which had led immediately to the emigration
+of the royal family. The manifesto also denied having, as the French
+government alleged, given any succours to the English fleet or troops in
+their expedition to the River Plate; and it states, that the French
+government having broken faith with that of Portugal, His Royal Highness
+considered himself at war with France, and declared that he could only
+make peace by consent of, and in conjunction with, his old and faithful
+ally the king of England; and this was all the direct interference of
+the Prince in the affairs of his ancient European kingdom, where a junta
+of five persons was appointed to govern, and where, before the end of
+the year (1808), the battle of Vimiera had been fought, and the
+convention of Cintra had been signed.</p>
+
+<p>The first sensible effect of the arrival of the royal family in Brazil
+was the opening of its numerous ports<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>; and in the very first year
+(1808) ninety foreign ships entered the single harbour of Rio, and a
+proportional number, those of Maranham, Pernambuco, and Bahia. The
+effect of the residence of the court was soon felt in the city of Rio de
+Janeiro. It was before 1808 confined to little more than the ground it
+occupied when attacked by Duguay Trouen in 1712; and the beautiful bays
+above and below it, formed by the harbour, were unoccupied, except by a
+few fishermen, while the swamps and morasses which surrounded it
+rendered it filthy in the extreme. A spot near the church of San
+Francisco de Paulo had been cleared for a square, but scarcely a dozen
+houses had risen round it, and a muddy pond filled up the centre, into
+which the negroes were in the habit of throwing all the impurities from
+the neighbourhood. This was now filled up. On one side of the square a
+theatre was begun, not inferior to those of Europe in size and
+accommodation, and placed under the patronage of St. John; several
+magnificent houses rose in the immediate neighbourhood, the square was
+finished, and another and much larger laid out beyond it, on one side of
+the city, while on the other, between the foot of the mountain of the
+Corcovado, with its surrounding hills, and the sea, every station was
+occupied by delightful country-houses, and the beautiful bay of Boto
+Fogo, where there were before only fishermen and gipsies, soon became a
+populous and wealthy suburb.</p>
+
+<p>It is not in my power to give a detailed account of all the transactions
+of this important year. The trade had naturally rapidly increased; the
+money brought by the emigrants from Portugal, had called forth greater
+exertions and speculations in commerce; and in October a public bank was
+chartered in Rio, with a capital of from seventy to eighty thousand
+pounds sterling.</p>
+
+<p>The establishment of a regular gazette naturally took place, for the
+speedier dissemination of whatever tidings might arrive from Portugal,
+where lay the possessions and the interest of the court and the new
+people of Brazil; and though the press, of course, did not boast of much
+freedom, nor indeed would its freedom at that time have been of any
+consequence, it formed the first step towards awakening rational
+curiosity and that desire for reading, which has become not only a
+luxury, but even a necessary, in some countries, and which makes a rapid
+and daily progress here.</p>
+
+<p>On the arrival of the court many of the old Creole families hastened to
+the capital to greet their sovereigns. The sons and the daughters of
+these married into the noble houses of Portugal; the union of the two
+nations became intimate and permanent; and the manners and habits of the
+Brazilians more polished. With the artificial wants that sprung up, new
+industry was excited, especially near the capital; the woods and hills
+were cleared, the desert islands of the bay became thriving farms,
+gardens sprung up every where, and the delicate table vegetables of
+Europe and Africa were added to the native riches of the soil and
+climate.</p>
+
+<p>The numbers of the royal family furnished birth-days for frequent galas,
+the foreigners vied with the Portuguese in their feasts, so that Rio
+presented a scene of almost continued festivity. On the 17th of
+December, the birth-day of the queen, six counts were created, that is,
+Luiz de Vasconcellos e Souza was made Conde de Figuerio, Don Rodrigo de
+Souza Continho, Conde de Linhares, the Visconde d'Anadia, Conde
+d'Anadia, D. Joao d'Almeida de Mello e Castro, Conde das Galveas, D.
+Fernando Jose de Portogal, Conde d'Aguiar, and D. Jose de Souza
+Continho, Conde de Redondo. The Papal Nuncio, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord
+Strangford<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>, were honoured with the order of the Tower and Sword; six
+English officers were named commanders of the order of the Cross, and
+five others were made knights of the same.</p>
+
+<p>The beginning of 1809 was marked by an event of some importance. By the
+treaty of Amiens, Portuguese Guiana had been given up to France, and was
+now, together with French Guyana and Cayenne, governed by the infamous
+Victor Hughes. It was long since France had been able to send out
+succour to these colonies. The fleets of England impeded the navigation,
+and the demands at home were too urgent and too great to permit much to
+be hazarded for the sake of such a distant possession. The court of Rio,
+therefore, resolved to send a body of troops under Colonel Manoel
+Marquez, to the mouth of the Oyapok. The English ship of war, Confiance,
+commanded by Captain Yeo, accompanied him, and their combined attack
+forced the enemy to surrender on the 12th of January. The terms were
+honourable to both parties: and among the articles I observe the 14th,
+by which it is stipulated, that the botanic garden, called the
+Gabrielle, shall not only be spared, but kept up in the state of
+perfection in which it was given up. War is so horrible, that a trait
+like this, in the midst of its evils, is too pleasing to be overlooked.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the year passed in Brazil in quiet though important
+operations; many roads were opened through the still wild country in the
+interior; a naval academy was instituted; a school of anatomy was
+founded in the naval and military hospital; and the vaccine
+establishment formed in Brazil in 1804 having declined, it was renewed
+both at Bahia and Rio, and immense numbers of persons of all colours
+were vaccinated.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the Portuguese arms were employed in another quarter of the
+world. The extensive dominions of Portugal in the east had fallen off
+one by one, as pearls from a broken thread. Yet Macao was still
+Portuguese. For twenty years past, it, in common with the coast of
+China, had been plagued with the pirates of the Yellow Sea; till, at
+length, the Chinese government found it necessary to take measures for
+suppressing them, and therefore made a treaty with the Portuguese
+government of Macao, signed by the following personages, on the 23d of
+November.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Miguel De Arriga</span>, Judge.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Brun Da Silva</span>.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Jose Joaquin Barros</span>, General.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Shin Kei Chi</span>.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Ches</span>.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Pom</span>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The Portuguese were by this treaty to furnish six vessels of from
+sixteen to twenty-six guns, but being in want of ball and other stores
+they were supplied liberally by the English East India Company's
+factory; and the result was, that after three months' resistance, the
+pirates surrendered their ships, and promised to become peaceable
+subjects, and the people of Macao performed a Te Deum in honour of their
+success; but twelve months elapsed ere the happy tidings reached Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>The great European interests of Brazil and its sovereign might have been
+forgotten in the country itself, during the year 1810, so tranquil was
+it, but for the packets which brought across the Atlantic the details of
+those desperate battles, which the strength and the treasure of England
+were waging in defence of them in the Peninsula. On the 19th of
+February, Lord Strangford and the Conde de Linhares, in behalf of their
+respective governments, signed a commercial treaty at Rio, by which
+great and reciprocal advantages were obtained, and the English were
+allowed the free exercise of their own form of worship, provided they
+built no steeples to their churches, and that they used no bells.</p>
+
+<p>This was followed in the month of May by a formal notice from Lord
+Strangford, that the British Parliament had voted 980,000<i>l.</i> for the
+carrying on of the war in Portugal. In fact, England had now taken the
+battle into her own hands, as she had decidedly the greatest interest in
+opposing France; and the royal house of Braganza was at leisure to
+devote its whole attention to its American dominions. Several well
+appointed detachments were sent into different parts of the country for
+the purpose of repelling the Indians, whose inroads had destroyed
+several of the Portuguese settlements, of forming roads to connect the
+different provinces with each other, and, above all, of furthering the
+gradual civilisation of the Indian tribes. Strict orders were given the
+commanders to proceed peaceably, especially among the friendly Indians;
+but such as were refractory were to be pursued even to extermination. To
+further the views with which these expeditions had been formed, a
+proclamation was issued in the month of September, holding out to such
+as should become proprietors and reclaimers of land in the province of
+the Minas Geraes and on the banks of the Rio Doce, all the advantages of
+original donatories and lords paramount; and promising that every
+settlement that should contain twelve huts of reclaimed Indians, and ten
+houses of white persons, should be erected into a villa, with all its
+privileges. The party that was sent up the Rio Doce discovered one
+hundred and forty-four farms that had been ruined by the Indians, and
+which they restored: they formed a friendly treaty with several tribes
+of Puri Indians, whom they found already settled in villages, to the
+number of nearly a thousand. These people were gentle, and not without
+some of the arts and habits of industry; but they were heathens and
+polygamists; not that a plurality of wives was general, or even common,
+for there were only one hundred and thirteen wives to ninety four
+husbands. They do not appear to have been cannibals, though it is
+strongly asserted that the neighbouring Botecudos were so, and that
+having gained a slight advantage over the Portuguese, they had eaten
+four of them who fell into their hands.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> I confess I am sceptical
+about these anthropophagi. That savages may eat their enemies taken in
+battle I do not doubt; under the circumstances of savage life revenge
+and retaliation are sweet: but I doubt their eating the dead found after
+the battle, and I doubt their hunting men, or devouring women and
+children. With the latter atrocities, indeed, they have not been charged
+in modern times; and as at the period the missionaries wrote the first
+histories of them, it was politic to exaggerate the difficulties these
+useful men had to encounter, in order to enhance their services, it is
+not uncharitable to believe that much exaggeration crept into the
+accounts of the savages, especially if we recollect the miracles
+ascribed in those very accounts to many of the missionaries themselves.
+Besides these measures concerning the Indians, other steps were taken
+for the good of the country of no less importance; several colonies,
+both of Europeans, and of islanders from the A&ccedil;ores, were invited and
+encouraged. The fisheries off the coast were attended to, and
+particularly that of the island of St. Catherine; and on the same island
+sufficient experiments were made upon the growth of hemp, to prove that
+time and industry only were wanting to furnish great quantities of that
+valuable article of a very good quality.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1811 was the last of the life and ministry of the Conde de
+Linhares, whose views were all directed to the good of the country.
+Fully aware not only of its richness and fertility, he also perceived
+how poor and how backward it was, considering its natural advantages.
+In endeavouring to remedy the evils, he perhaps aimed at doing more than
+was possible in the short time, and under the circumstances, in which
+his active disposition could operate. He had formed roads and planned
+canals; he had invited colonies, which indeed afterwards sunk; but they
+left behind them some of their ingenious practice, and some seeds of
+improvement which have not utterly perished. The possibility of
+navigating both the St Matthew's river and the Gequetinhonha had been
+ascertained; experiments in every kind of cultivation had been made;
+even the tea had been introduced from China. A botanical garden had been
+formed, in which the spices of the East were cultivated with success;
+and perhaps as the greatest possible good, a public library had been
+formed, and its regulations framed on the most liberal principles.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the end of 1811 a royal decree was issued, assigning 120,000
+crusadoes per annum to be taken from the customs of Bahia, Pernambuco,
+and Maranham, for forty years, to the Portuguese, who had suffered
+during the French war; a measure regarded even then with jealousy by the
+northern captaincies. But they all continued tranquil for the present,
+and seemed to attend only to domestic improvement. New buildings, both
+for use and ornament, arose in the cities. Maranham and Pernambuco
+improved their harbours. Bahia, besides the handsome theatre opened
+there in 1812, paved her streets; and at Rio, a subscription of 30,000
+crusadoes was raised towards beautifying the palace square, completing
+the public gardens, and draining the campo de Sta. Anna.</p>
+
+<p>In 1813, some disputes arose between the court of Rio and England on
+account of the slave trade. Three ships had been captured by the British
+squadron off the coast of Africa, while certainly engaged in illegal
+<i>slaving</i>; remonstrances were made, and the matter continued suspended
+until after the congress of Vienna, when that illustrious meeting,
+though most of its highest and most powerful members had exclaimed
+loudly against the villanous practice, suffered it to be carried on.
+Then indeed England consented to pay 13,000<i>l.</i> to indemnify the
+Portuguese slave traders for their loss (July, 1815)!</p>
+
+<p>In the same year there appears to have been some discontent manifested,
+or suspected in the provinces. Many of the salaries of officers, both
+civil and military, remained unpaid; yet there were exactions, the more
+grievous, because they were irregular, in every department; the
+administration of justice was notoriously corrupt; the clergy had fallen
+into disorder and disrepute; and though much that was useful had been
+done, yet that was forgotten, especially in the distant provinces, and
+such a portion of discontent existed, that various officers who had come
+to Rio either on private business or to remonstrate on public wrongs,
+were peremptorily ordered to return to their own provinces.</p>
+
+<p>It was wisely done at this juncture, to take off the public attention
+from such vexations by a measure at once just and gratifying to the
+pride of the Brazilians: by an edict of the 16th of December, 1815,
+Brazil was raised to the dignity of a kingdom, and the style and title
+altered so as to place it on an equal footing with Portugal. For some
+months addresses of thanks and congratulation poured in to the king from
+various provinces, and the feasts and rejoicings on that happy occasion
+occupied the people to the exclusion of all other considerations.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the victories of the allies in Europe, having caused the exile
+of Napoleon to Elba, the necessity for an English guardian squadron at
+Rio had ceased; and accordingly the British establishment was broken up,
+and the stores sold, and the family of Braganza, again independent of
+foreign aid, began to renew its connections with the other courts of
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>These negotiations suffered some little interruption from an event which
+had long been expected, namely, the death of the queen, on the 20th of
+March, 1816, whose state, both of body and mind, had long precluded her
+from all share in public affairs. She was buried with great pomp in the
+church of the convent of the Ajuda; and, as is usual, dirges were sung
+for her in all the churches in the kingdom.</p>
+
+<p>In the month of June, the Marquis Marialva was received at Paris as
+ambassador of Portugal and Brazil, and shortly afterwards the way having
+been prepared by an inferior minister, he went to Vienna, to negotiate a
+marriage between Don Pedro de Alcantara, Prince of Portugal and Brazil,
+and the Archduchess Maria Leopoldina, which was happily effected. On the
+28th of November, she was privately contracted at Vienna to the prince.
+On the 17th of February following, the contract was made public, and on
+the 13th of May she was married by proxy, the Marquis Marialva standing
+for Don Pedro; but it was not until the 11th of November that she
+arrived at Rio. The line of battle ship Joam VI. had been sent along
+with two frigates for her to Trieste, the voyage was performed without
+accident, and the person the most important to the hopes and happiness
+of Brazil, was welcomed with enthusiasm by all classes of people.</p>
+
+<p>In the autumn preceding, two of the Infantas of Portugal had been
+married to Ferdinand the 7th of Spain, and his brother the Infant Don
+Carlos.</p>
+
+<p>But the frontier of Brazil to the southward now began to feel the effect
+of those disturbances which had long agitated Spanish South America. The
+chief Artigas showed a disposition to encroach on the Portuguese line,
+and, therefore, a corps of volunteers had been formed for the purposes
+of observation, and the Porte da Santa Theresa had been occupied in
+order to check the motions of that active leader: during the autumn of
+1816, several skirmishes took place, but the arts of negotiation as well
+as of war were resorted to, and on the 19th of January, 1817, the keys
+of Montevideo were delivered up to the Portuguese general Lecor, by
+which the long-wished-for command of the eastern bank of the Plata was
+obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the discontents in the northern provinces had broken out into
+open insurrection, in the captaincy of Pernambuco. The people of
+Recife, and its immediate neighbourhood, had imbibed some of the notions
+of democratical government from their former masters the Dutch. They
+remembered besides, that their own exertions, without any assistance
+from the government, had driven out those masters, and had restored to
+the crown the northern part of its richest domain. They were, therefore,
+disposed to be particularly jealous of the provinces of the south,
+especially of Rio, which they considered as more favoured than
+themselves, and they were disgusted at the payments of taxes and
+contributions, by which they never profited, and which only served to
+enrich the creatures of the court, while great abuses existed,
+especially in the judicial part of the government, which they despaired
+of ever seeing redressed. Such were the exciting causes of the
+insurrection of 1817, in Pernambuco, which threatened for many months
+the peace, if not the safety of Brazil. The example of the Spanish
+Americans had no doubt its weight, and a regular plan for obtaining
+independence was formed, troops were raised and disciplined, and Recife
+being secured, fortifications were begun at Alagoas and at Penedo.</p>
+
+<p>The insurgents, however, had probably miscalculated the degree of
+concurrence or assistance they should meet with from their neighbours.
+The people of Serinhaem as soon as the insurrection was known, namely
+the middle of April, posted themselves on the Rio Formosa as a check on
+that quarter, and the king's troops under Lacerda, marched immediately
+from Bahia. The Pernambucan leader Victoriano, having attacked the Villa
+de Pedras, received a decided check from a body of royalists, under
+Major Gordilho, who had been sent forward by Lacerda, on the 21st: and
+by the 29th Gordilho had occupied that post, as well as Tamandr&eacute;, where
+he was not long afterwards joined by Colonel Mello, with a strong
+reinforcement.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the Pernambucan chief, Domingos Jose Martins, was actively
+employed in collecting troops, and forming guerilla parties, in order to
+harass the marches of the enemy. These parties were headed by
+Cavalcante, a man of wealth and family, aided by a priest, Souto, a
+bold and enterprising man, who was far from being the only
+ecclesiastical partisan. On the 2d of May, a vigorous attack was made on
+Serinhaem, by the famous Pernambucan division of the south, which had
+hitherto received no check; but the assailants were repulsed with the
+loss of their artillery and baggage, and a column under Martins coming
+up met with the same fate, on which he drew off his people with those of
+the south, to the ingenio of Trapiche. On the 6th of May they left that
+position, and meeting the royalists under Mello, suffered a complete
+defeat. Their chiefs were either killed or taken; and of the latter some
+were exiled, others imprisoned, and three, Jose Luiz Mendon&ccedil;a, Domingos
+Jose Martins, and the priest, Miguel Joaquim de Alameida, were hanged in
+Bahia.</p>
+
+<p>At this juncture Luiz do Rego Barreto was appointed by the government at
+Rio to the office of captain-general of Pernambuco. He was a native of
+Portugal, and had served with distinction under Lord Wellington. Of a
+firm and vigorous mind, and jealous of the honour of a soldier, he was
+perhaps too little yielding to the people and the temper of the times.
+The severe military punishments inflicted on this occasion certainly
+produced irritation, which though it did not break out immediately, was
+the cause of much evil afterwards, and brought an odium upon that
+gallant soldier himself, from which his high character in other
+situations could not shield him.</p>
+
+<p>This year the ministry underwent a complete change. The Marquis
+d'Aguiar, who had succeeded to the Conde de Linhares, died in January,
+and the Conde da Barca in June; when the Conde de Palmela became prime
+minister, Bezerra became president of the treasury, the Conde dos Arcos
+secretary for transmarine and naval affairs, the Conde de Funchal
+counsellor of state, and Don Tomas Antonio de Portogal secretary to the
+house of Braganza.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot pretend to speak of the character or measures of these or any
+other Portuguese or Brazilian ministers. My opportunities of information
+were too few; my habits as a woman and a foreigner never led me into
+situations where I could acquire the necessary knowledge. I wish only to
+mark the course of events, and in as far as they are linked with each
+other, the causes of those effects which took place under my own eyes.</p>
+
+<p>In the early part of 1818, some additional restrictions concerning the
+slave trade, which had been agreed to by Conde de Palmela during the
+last year at London, were published at Rio, and a commission of English
+and Portuguese jointly was formed for the examining into and deciding on
+causes arising out of the treaties on that most important subject, a
+certain number of commissioners being appointed to reside in the
+different ports in Africa and Brazil, where the trade was still
+considered lawful. That year opened at Rio with unusual festivity. On
+the 22d of January, a great bull-feast was given at San Christovam, the
+royal country house, in honour of the young princess's birth-day; it was
+followed by a military dance, in which the costume of the natives of
+every part of the Portuguese dominions in the east and west were
+displayed. Portugal and Algarve, Africa and India, China and Brazil, all
+appeared to do homage to the illustrious stranger. Music, in which the
+taste of the king was unrivalled, formed a great part of the
+entertainment, and never perhaps had Brazil witnessed so magnificent a
+festival.</p>
+
+<p>On the 6th of February the coronation of his majesty, John VI., took
+place, and these peaceful festivities gave a character to the year,
+which was remarkably quiet, the only public acts of note being the
+farther prosecution of the plans for civilising the interior, by
+facilitating the communications from place to place, and reclaiming the
+border tribes of Indians.</p>
+
+<p>The following year was not less tranquil. The birth of the young
+princess, Donna Maria da Gloria, was an event to gratify both the court
+and the people of Brazil. They had now the heir of their kingdom born
+among them, a circumstance which they were disposed to hail as a pledge
+that the seat of government would not be removed from among them.</p>
+
+<p>The early part of 1820 was disturbed by some irruptions of the Spanish
+Americans under Artigas, on the eastern side of the Plata. The
+Portuguese troops, however, soon repulsed him, and strengthened their
+line by the occupation of Taquarembo, Simar, and the Arroyo Grande.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the peace in Europe had not brought back all the tranquillity
+that was expected from it. In vain did the old governments expect to step
+back into exactly the same places they had occupied before the
+revolutionary war. The Cortes had assembled in Spain. Naples had been
+convulsed by an attempt to obtain a constitution similar to that
+promulgated by the Spanish Cortes; and now Portugal began to feel the
+universal impulse. Lisbon and Oporto were both the seats of juntas of
+provisional government, and both assembled Cortes to take into
+consideration the framing of a new constitution, and the reformation of
+ancient abuses. On the 21st of August the Cortes of Lisbon had sworn to
+adopt in part the constitution of the Spanish Cortes, but it was not
+until the month of November that the government of Brazil made public
+the recent occurrences in the mother country. Indeed it was not to be
+expected that Brazil should remain unconscious of the proceedings of
+Europe. The provinces were all more or less agitated. Pernambuco was as
+usual foremost in feeling, and in the expression of feeling. A
+considerable party had assembled at about thirty-six leagues from
+Olinda. They declared their grievances to be intolerable, and that
+nothing but a total reform in the government should reconcile them to
+longer subjection to the government of Rio. The royalist troops were
+sent out against them and were victorious, after an action of six hours,
+in which they lost six officers and 19 men killed, and 134 wounded. The
+loss on the other side was much greater, and as usual severe military
+executions increased the evils of the civil war, at the same time that
+they farther exasperated the people, and prepared them for a future and
+more obstinate resistance.</p>
+
+<p>Bahia was far from tranquil. The old jealousy which had subsisted from
+the time the seat of government had been transferred from the city of
+St. Salvador to Rio, combined with other causes, tended to increase the
+desire of a constitutional government, from which all good was to be
+expected, and under which, it was hoped, that all abuses would be
+reformed. Rio itself began to manifest the same feelings. The provinces
+of St. Paul's and the Minas were always ready to unite in any cause that
+promised an increase of freedom; and the whole country seemed on the
+brink of revolution, if not civil war.</p>
+
+<p>The court party, however, still flattered themselves that the
+determination of the King to remain in Brazil, instead of returning to
+Lisbon to put himself into the power of the Cortes, would be so grateful
+to the Brazilians, that they would be contented to forego the probable
+advantages of a constitution, for the sake of the positive good of
+having the seat of government fixed among themselves. But it was too
+late; the wish for improvement had been excited. The administration had
+been too corrupt, the exactions too heavy to be longer borne, when
+reform appeared to be within reach. The very soldiers became possessed
+with the same spirit, and though highly repugnant to the King's
+feelings, it soon became evident that a compliance with the wishes of
+the people and with the constituton, as declared by the Cortes at
+Lisbon, was inevitable.</p>
+
+<p>It is said, that some of the wisest ministers hail long pressed His
+Majesty to a compliance with the wishes of his people, but in vain. His
+reluctance was unconquerable, until at length, perceiving that force
+would certainly be resorted to, he adopted a half measure which probably
+accelerated the very event he was anxious to avoid.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> On the 18th of
+February, 1821, the King accepted as a junta, to take into consideration
+such parts of the constitution as might be applicable to the state of
+Brazil, the following persons:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+Marquez de Altegrete&mdash;<i>President</i><br />
+Baron de St. Amaro.<br />
+Luiz Jos&eacute; de Carvalho Mello.<br />
+Antonio Liuz Pereiro da Cunha.<br />
+Antonio Rodriguez Velloso dc Oliviera.<br />
+Joa&#335; Severiano Maciel da Costa.<br />
+Camillo Maria Tonelet<br />
+Joa&#335; dc Souza de Mendon&ccedil;a Costa Real.<br />
+Jos&eacute; da Silva Lisboa.<br />
+Mariano Jos&eacute; Pereira da Fonseca.<br />
+Jav&#335; Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida.<br />
+Francisco Xavier Pires.<br />
+Jos&eacute; Caetano Gomez.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i>Procurador da Casa.</i><br />
+<br />
+Jos&eacute; de Oliviera Botelho Pinto Masquiera.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i>Secretarios.</i><br />
+<br />
+Manoel Jacinto Noguerra de Gama.<br />
+Manoel Moreira de Figueiredo.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i>Secretaries Sustituti.</i><br />
+<br />
+O Coronel Francisco Saraiva da Costa Refoios.<br />
+O Desembargador Joa&#335; Jos&eacute; dc Mendonza.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>These persons were all anxious to retain the King in Brazil. Most of
+them Brazilians, they had felt the advantage of having the seat of
+government fixed among themselves, and though the King's foreign allies
+and his Portuguese subjects had pressed him to return to Europe, his own
+dread of the Cortes of Lisbon, together with their natural desire to
+detain him in Brazil, produced on the 21st a manifesto, describing His
+Majesty's affection and relianceon his Brazilian subjects, and stating,
+that he was resolved to send the Prince Don Pedro to Lisbon, with full
+powers to treat on his behalf with the Cortes, whom he seems to have
+considered as subjects in rebellion.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince was also to consult with the Cortes concerning the drawing up
+of a constitution, and the King promised to adopt such parts of it as
+might be found applicable to existing circumstances and to the peculiar
+situation of Brazil. This manifesto appears to have produced an effect
+very different from what was intended. At four o'clock in the morning of
+the 26th, all the streets and squares of the city were found full of
+troops. Six pieces of artillery were planted at the heads of the
+principal streets, and the most lively sensation agitated every part of
+the city of Rio. As soon as this circumstance could be known at San
+Christova&#335;, the Prince Don Pedro, and the Infant Don Miguel, came into
+the city. The Camara<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> was assembled in the great saloon of the
+theatre.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> The Prince, after conferring for a short time with the
+members of that body, appeared upon the balcony of the saloon, and read
+to the people and the troops, a royal proclamation, antedated the 24th,
+securing to them the Constitution, such as it should be framed by the
+Cortes of Lisbon. This was received with loud cries of Viva el Rei, Viva
+a Religia&#335;, Viva a constituica&#335;. The Prince then returned to the saloon,
+and ordered the secretary of the Camara to draw up the form of the oath
+to be taken to observe the constitution, and also a list of a new
+ministry, to be submitted to the people for their approbation. The list
+of ministers was first read, and each individually approved.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a></p>
+
+<p>His Royal Highness then proceeded to take the oath for his father, in
+the following form:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I swear, in the name of the King, my father and lord, veneration and
+respect for our holy religion; to observe, keep, and maintain for ever
+the constitution such as established by the cortes in Portugal." The
+bishop then presented to him the holy Gospels, on which he laid his
+right hand, and solemnly vowed, promised, and signed the same.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince then took the oath in like manner for himself, and was
+immediately followed by his brother, the Infant Don Miguel, after whom
+the ministers and a multitude of other persons crowded to follow his
+example. Meantime the Prince rode to the King at his country seat of Boa
+Vista, at San Cristova&otilde;, to inform him of all that had passed, and to
+entreat his presence in the city, as the best means of securing order
+and confidence. His Majesty accordingly set off immediately, and arrived
+at the great square at about eleven o'clock, when the people took the
+horses from his carriage and dragged him to the palace, the troops
+following as on a day of gala, and forming in the square before the
+doors. At one of the centre windows the King presently appeared, and
+confirmed all that the Prince had promised in his name, declaring at the
+same time his perfect approbation of every thing that had been done. The
+troops then dispersed, and the King held a court, which was most
+numerously attended; and the day ended at the opera, the people again
+assembling to drag the King's carriage thither.</p>
+
+<p>It would be curious to investigate the feelings of princes on occasions
+so momentous to themselves and to their people. Joam VI., passionately
+fond of music, was dragged by a people, grateful for a boon granted that
+very day, to a theatre built by himself, where all the music vocal and
+instrumental was selected with exquisite taste, and where the piece
+presented was a decided favourite.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> Yet it may be questioned whether
+there existed in his wide dominions one heart less at ease than his
+own. All his feelings and prejudices were in favour of the ancient order
+of things, and this day those feelings and prejudices had been obliged
+to bend to the spirit of the times, to a wide-spread desire for freedom,
+to every thing, in short, most contrary to the ancient system of
+continental Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The next day<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>, there was nothing but joy in the city, the great
+saloon was again crowded with persons eager to sign the oath to the
+constitution, illuminations, feux de joie, and fireworks succeeded; and
+at the opera, Puccito's Henrique IV. was ordered in compliment to the
+King. But he was too much fatigued with the events of the last two days
+to go, and when the curtain of the royal box was drawn up, the pictures
+only of the king and queen appeared; but they were received with loud
+acclamations, as if the royal personages themselves had been present.</p>
+
+<p>Thus was a most important revolution brought about without bloodshed,
+and almost without disturbance. The junta occupied itself seriously on
+the business of the constitution, and began by publishing some edicts
+highly favourable to the people, and, among others, one insuring the
+liberty of the press.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime Bahia, actuated by the same spirit as Rio, had anticipated the
+revolution at that place. On the 10th of February the troops and people
+assembled in the city, the magistrates were called on to take an oath to
+adhere to the constitution, a provisional government was formed, and
+troops were raised in order to maintain the constitution, in case the
+court at Rio should be adverse to its adoption. Among these the most
+forward was a small body of artillery, formed of the students at the
+different colleges and schools of the city. The new government early
+began to manifest a determination to be no longer subordinate to Rio,
+and to acknowledge no other authority than that of the Cortes at
+Lisbon. An intimation of what had taken place at Bahia was immediately
+forwarded to Luiz do Rego at Pernambuco, who assembled the magistrates,
+the troops, and the people, on the 3d of March, in Recife, and there,
+along with them, solemnly took the oath to adhere to the constitution; a
+measure which gave universal satisfaction. About the same time, several
+of the towns in the Comarca of Ilheos also took the oaths to maintain
+the constitution; and it appeared evidently that the whole country was
+equally desirous of a change, in hopes of relief from the vexations it
+had so long suffered under.</p>
+
+<p>But the agitation of the capital was by no means at an end. Disputes
+arose concerning the election of deputies to the cortes, which, however,
+ended in adopting the method laid down in the Spanish constitution. The
+troops found it necessary to publish a declaration, denying that they
+had any factious views when they assembled on the 26th of February, and
+alleging that they appeared as citizens anxious for the rights of the
+whole community. The people assembled in different places, and are said
+to have insulted several persons, particularly the members of the
+council which existed immediately before the revolution; and in order to
+save three of them from the fury of the mob, they were placed in
+confinement for three days, and then liberated, with a proclamation
+tending to exculpate them from all criminal charges, and explaining the
+motives of their arrest.</p>
+
+<p>The King meanwhile had resolved on returning to Lisbon, and on the 7th
+of March he published a proclamation announcing his resolution, together
+with an order for such deputies as should be elected by the time of his
+departure, to go with him to attend the Cortes, and promising to find
+means of conveying the rest when they should be ready.</p>
+
+<p>Every thing now appeared to proceed in quiet. The preparations for His
+Majesty's departure went on, and he resolved to take the opportunity of
+the assembling of the electors on the 21st of April, to choose the
+deputies to the Cortes, to submit to them the plan for the government of
+Brazil which he had laid down, in order to receive their sanction.
+These electors were assembled in the exchange, a handsome new building
+on the shore, and thither a great concourse of people had flocked, some
+purely from curiosity, some from a desire, imagining they had a right,
+to express their opinion on so important a subject. The result of that
+meeting was a deputation sent to the king, insisting on the adoption of
+the entire Spanish constitution. The decree of the assembly received the
+signature of the King. But the members of that assembly met again on the
+22d, many of whom had no legal title to be present, and proceeded to
+propose to stop the ships prepared for the King's return to Portugal.
+Some went so far as to propose an examination of the vessels, in order
+to stop the exportation of the quantity of wealth known to be on board
+of them, and the meeting at length assumed so alarming an aspect, that
+His Majesty revoked his royal consent to the act passed on the 21st, and
+sent a body of soldiers to intimidate the assembly. Unhappily, an order
+proceeding from some quarter, never known or never acknowledged, caused
+the soldiers to fire into the exchange, where the unarmed and innocent
+electors, as well as the others who had crowded thither, it might be,
+with less pure motives, were assembled, but all were there on the faith
+of the royal invitation given through the judge of the district.</p>
+
+<p>About thirty persons were killed, many more were wounded: and the whole
+city was filled with an indescribable consternation. The sudden stop
+that was put to this strange, unwise and cruel attack, has always been
+attributed to the Prince Don Pedro, who, on this as on other occasions,
+has well merited the title of perpetual defender of Brazil. The attack
+itself, perhaps unjustly, was imputed to the Conde dos Arcos by some, to
+other individuals by others, according as passion or party directed the
+suspicion: the truth is, that it seems to have been the result of
+ill-understood orders, given hastily in a moment of alarm, for it is
+impossible to think, for an instant, that any man could wantonly have so
+cruelly irritated the people at the very time when so much depended on
+their tranquillity. This shocking event, however, seems to have
+quickened the King's resolution to leave Brazil. That very day he made
+over the government of that country to the Prince, with a council to be
+composed of</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The Conde dos Arcos, Prime Minister.<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Conda da Lou&ccedil;a, Minister of Interior.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Brigadier Caula, Minister of War.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And in case of the prince's death, the regency to remain in the hands of
+the Princess Maria Leopoldina.</p>
+
+<p>The next day the King publicly addressed the troops, recommending to
+them fidelity to the crown and constitution, and obedience to the Prince
+Regent, and as a royal boon on leaving the army, promising a great
+increase of pay to all, and that the Brazilian officers should be put on
+the same footing as those of the Portuguese army. The ministers who
+advised this step, acted cruelly towards the government they left
+behind. The treasury was left empty at the King's departure, yet
+increase of pay beyond all precedent was promised, as well as other
+burdens on the prince's revenue. His Majesty published on the same day,
+a farewell to the inhabitants of Rio; and it cannot be imagined that he
+could leave the place which to him had been a haven of safety, during
+the storm in which most of his brother monarchs had suffered, without
+feelings of regret, if not affection.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince also addressed the Brazilians on assuming the government by a
+proclamation, which, as it sets forth his intentions, I shall give
+literally:</p>
+
+<p>"Inhabitants of Brazil;</p>
+
+<p>"The necessity of paying attention to the general interests of the
+nation before every other, forces my august father to leave you, and to
+intrust me with the care of the public happiness of Brazil, until
+Portugal shall form a constitution, and confirm it.</p>
+
+<p>"And, as I judge it right, in the present circumstances, that all should
+from this time understand what are the objects of public administration
+which I have principally in view, I lose no time in declaring, that
+strict respect for the laws, constant vigilance over the administration
+of the same, opposition to the quibbles by which they are discredited
+and weakened, will be the objects of my first attention.</p>
+
+<p>"It will be highly agreeable to me to anticipate all such benefits of
+the constitution as shall be compatible with obedience to the laws.</p>
+
+<p>"Public education, which now demands the most especial attention of the
+government, will be provided for by every means in my power.</p>
+
+<p>"And in order that the commerce and agriculture of Brazil may be in a
+prosperous state, I shall not cease to encourage whatever may favour
+these copious sources of national riches.</p>
+
+<p>"I shall pay equal attention to the interesting subject of reform,
+without which it will be impossible to use liberal means for the public
+good.</p>
+
+<p>"Inhabitants of Brazil! all these intentions will be frustrated if
+certain evil-minded persons should accomplish their fatal views, and
+persuade you to adopt antisocial principles, destructive of all order,
+and diametrically opposed to the system of liberality, which from this
+moment it is my intention to follow."</p>
+
+<p>The ceremonies of taking leave, occupied the following day. On the 24th,
+the royal family embarked, and with it many of the Portuguese nobles who
+had followed their king into exile, and many others whose fortunes were
+entirely attached to the court.</p>
+
+<p>But this great re-emigration produced evils of no common magnitude in
+Brazil. It is computed that fifty millions of crusadoes, at least, were
+carried out of the country by the Portuguese returning to Lisbon. A
+great proportion of specie had been taken up in exchange for government
+bills on the treasuries of Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranham. But these
+provinces, from the revolution in February, had disclaimed the
+superiority of the government at Rio, and had owned no other than that
+of the Cortes at Lisbon, and above all the ministry well knew, even at
+the time of granting the bills, that they had refused to remit any
+portion of the revenue to Rio. Hence arose commercial distress of every
+description, and as long-standing government debts had been also paid by
+these bills which were all dishonoured, the evil spread far and wide,
+not only among the natives but the foreign merchants. It was of little
+avail that the Prince acknowledged the debts<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>; the treasury was left
+so poor, that he was obliged to delay or modify the increase of military
+pay promised on the King's departure, a circumstance that occasioned
+much disquiet in several provinces. The funds for carrying on several
+branches of industry, and several works of public utility were destroyed
+by this great and sudden drain; and thereby much that had been begun
+after the arrival of the court, and which it was hoped would have been
+of the greatest benefit to the country, was stopped. Colonies that had
+been invited to settle with the most liberal promises perished for want
+of the necessary support in the beginning of their career, and the
+wonder is, not that disturbances in various quarters took place after
+the departure of the King, but that they were not of a more fierce and
+fatal tendency.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince who remained at the head of the government was deservedly
+popular among the Brazilians. His first care was to examine into and
+redress causes of grievances; particularly those arising from arbitrary
+imprisonment and vexatious methods of collecting taxes. The great duties
+on salt conveyed into the interior, were remitted. Something was done
+towards improving the condition of the barracks, hospitals, and schools.
+Books were allowed to be imported duty free, and every thing that could
+be effected under the circumstances, was done by the Prince for the
+advantage of the people, and to preserve or promote public tranquillity.</p>
+
+<p>But the question of the independence of Brazil had now come to be
+publicly agitated, and out of it arose several others. Was it to be
+still part of the Portuguese monarchy, with a separate supreme
+jurisdiction civil and criminal under the Prince? or was it to return to
+the abject state in which it had been since its discovery, subject to
+all the vexatious delays occasioned by distant tribunals, by appeals
+beyond sea, and all that renders the state of a colony irksome or
+degrading? Then if independent so far, was it to form one kingdom whose
+capital should be at Rio, or were there to be several unconnected
+provinces, each with its supreme government, accountable only to the
+king and cortes at Lisbon? Those who had republican views, and who
+looked forward to a federal state, favoured the latter views, and so did
+those who dreaded the final separation of Brazil from the mother
+country; for they argued that the separate provinces might be easily
+controlled, but that Brazil united would overmatch any force that
+Portugal could send against it, should a hostile struggle between them
+ever take place.</p>
+
+<p>The people, jealous of all, but particularly of the ministers, accused
+the Conde dos Arcos of treachery, and of a wish to reduce Brazil once
+more to the state in which it had been before 1808. They insisted on his
+dismissal, and on the appointment of a provisional junta, which should
+deliberate on the best measures of government to be adopted, until the
+constitution of the cortes should arrive from Lisbon, and the fifth of
+June, the day of his dismissal, was held as a festival.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></p>
+
+<p>Yet, distressed as the government was by an empty treasury, and by
+demands increasing daily on all sides, it was impossible to remove at
+once all causes of discontent; and the new junta was so well aware of
+this, that, on the 16th of June, on publishing an invitation to all
+persons to send in plans and projects for improvements, and statistical
+notices concerning the country, they also published an exhortation to
+tranquillity and obedience, and patient waiting till the event of the
+deliberation of the cortes, now to be joined by their own deputies,
+should be known. That same night both the Portuguese and Brazilian
+troops were under arms in the city, violent jealousies had arisen
+between them, and it required all the authority and all the popularity
+of the Prince to restore order. On the morning of the 17th His Royal
+Highness called together the officers of both nations, and in a short
+speech he ordered them as soldiers, and recommended to them as citizens,
+to preserve the subordination of the troops they commanded, and union
+among those troops, bidding them remember that they had sworn to support
+the constitution, and that they were to trust to that for the redress of
+their grievances.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the more distant provinces had acknowledged the authority of
+the cortes, and had sworn to support the constitution. But Maranham in
+its public acts took no notice whatever of the Prince, professing only
+to recognise the government of Lisbon. At Villa Rica, when the
+constitution was proclaimed, the troops refused to acknowledge the
+Prince, accusing him of withholding the pay promised by the King. At St.
+Catherine's, though the measures were less violent, yet the refusing to
+admit a new governor who had been sent, was decidedly an act of
+insubordination; but the political agitations at St. Paul's were not
+only of a more serious nature, but had more important results than those
+of any other province.</p>
+
+<p>The ostensible cause of the first public ferment in that city was the
+discontent of the Ca&ccedil;adores at not receiving the promised augmentation
+of pay, which, indeed, it was not then in the power of the Prince to
+bestow on them.</p>
+
+<p>The regiment, however, took up arms on the 3d of June, and declared they
+would not lay them down until they received the pay demanded, and were
+proceeding to threaten the municipal government of the city, when they
+were stopped by the good sense, and presence of mind of their captain,
+Jos&eacute; Joaquim dos Santos. But though the ferment was soothed for the
+time, it continued to agitate not only the troops, but the people, to
+such a degree, that the magistrates and principal inhabitants thought it
+necessary to take some steps at once, to rule and to satisfy them. They
+took advantage of the occasion furnished by the assembling of the
+militia, on account of a festival on the 21st, and, keeping them
+together, they placed them on the morning of the 23d, in the square
+before the town-house, where the camara held its sittings. The great
+bell of the camara then tolled out, the people flocked to the square,
+with shouts of "Viva el Re, Viva o Constitui&ccedil;ao, Viva o Principe
+Regente." They then demanded a provisional junta to be appointed for the
+government of the province, and that Jos&eacute; Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva,
+should be appointed president. This truly patriotic citizen and
+accomplished scholar, was a native of the country, and had now been
+residing in it some years, after having studied, travelled, and fought
+in Europe. As soon as he was named, a deputation was sent to his own
+dwelling, to bring him to the town-house.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the standard of the camara had been displayed at one of the
+windows, and there the magistrates were placed in sight of the people.
+Jos&eacute; Bonifacio appeared at another window, and addressed the people in a
+short, but energetic speech, calculated to give them courage, and at the
+same time to inspire peace and all good and orderly feeling. He then
+named, one by one, the members proposed by the chief citizens, to form
+the provisional junta, beginning with Joa&#335; Carlos Augusto de Oyenhausen,
+to continue general of arms in the province. Each name was received with
+cheers.<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> The troops and people then marched in an orderly manner to
+the house of Jos&eacute; Bonifacio, to install him formally as president, and
+thence to the cathedral where a Te Deum was sung. At night the theatre
+was illuminated as for a gala, the national hymn was sung repeatedly;
+and from that moment all remained quiet in the city, and resolved to
+maintain the constitution, and the Prince Regent, for whom they
+expressed unbounded attachment.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have been so important to the interest of the Prince at
+that time. The Paulistas are among the most hardy, generous, and
+enlightened of the Brazilians. Their country is in the happiest climate.
+The mines of St. Paul's are rich, not only in the precious, but in the
+useful metals. Iron, so rich as to yield 93 per cent. and coal abound.
+The manufactures of that province are far before any others in Brazil.
+Corn and cattle are plenty there, as well as every other species of
+Brazilian produce. Agriculture is attended to, and the city by its
+distance from the sea, is safe from the attacks of any foreign power,
+while it is totally independent of external supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, the port of Santos presented a different scene during the
+first days of June. The first battalion of the Ca&ccedil;adores assembled
+before the government house, and, accusing the governor and the camara
+of withholding their pay, seized and imprisoned them, in order to force
+them to give the money they demanded. Several murders were committed
+during the insurrection, and various robberies, both in the houses and
+the ships in the harbour. Some armed vessels were, however, speedily
+despatched from Rio, and a detachment of militia from St. Paul's. Fifty
+of the insurgents were killed, and two hundred and forty taken
+prisoners; after which, every thing returned to a state of tranquillity;
+and as the most conciliatory measures were adopted towards the people,
+the peace continued.</p>
+
+<p>The next three months were spent almost entirely in establishing
+provisional juntas in the different capitals. Many of the captaincies
+had, upon swearing to maintain the constitution, spontaneously adopted
+that measure. Others, such as Pernambuco, had been restrained by their
+governors from doing so, until the Prince's edicts of the 21st of
+August, to that effect, reached them. These edicts were followed by
+another of the 19th of September, directing the juntas to communicate
+directly with the cortes at Lisbon; and the whole attention of the
+government was now directed to preserve tranquillity until the arrival
+of instructions from the cortes concerning the form of government to be
+adopted.</p>
+
+<p>It was fondly hoped, that the presence of Brazilian deputies, the
+importance of the country, and the consideration that it had been the
+asylum of the government during the stormy days of the revolutionary
+war, would have induced the cortes to have considered it no longer as a
+colony, but as an equal part of the nation, and that it might have
+retained its separate courts, civil and criminal, and all the consequent
+advantages of a prompt administration of the laws.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the state of Brazil, generally speaking, on our arrival in that
+country, on the 21st of September, 1821. Much that might be interesting
+I have omitted, partly because I have not so correct a knowledge of it,
+as to venture to write it; much, because we are too near the time of
+action to know the motives and springs that guided the actors; and much,
+because neither my sex nor situation permitted me to inform myself more
+especially concerning the political events in a country where the
+periodical publications are few, recent, and though by law free, yet, in
+fact, owing to the circumstances of the times, imperfect, timorous, and
+uncertain. What I have ventured to write is, I trust, correct as to
+facts and dates; it is merely intended as an introduction, without
+which, the journal of what passed while I was in Brazil would be
+scarcely intelligible.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="a" id="a"></a><img src="images/002.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="JOURNAL" id="JOURNAL"></a>JOURNAL.</h2>
+
+
+<p>At about six o'clock in the evening of the 31st of July, 1821, after
+having saluted His Majesty, George IV., who at that moment went on board
+the Royal George yacht, to proceed to Dublin,&mdash;we sailed in the Doris, a
+42 gun frigate, for South America. After touching at Plymouth, and
+revisiting all the wonders of the break-water and new watering place, we
+sailed afresh, but when off Ushant, were driven back to Falmouth by a
+heavy gale of wind. There we remained till the 11th of August, when,
+with colours half-mast high, on account of the death of Queen Caroline,
+we finally left the channel, and on the 18th about noon came in sight of
+Porto Santo.</p>
+
+<p>We passed it on the side where the town founded by Don Henry of
+Portugal, on the first discovery of the island, is situated, and
+regretted much that it was too late in the day to go in very near it.
+The land is high and rocky, but near the town there is a good deal of
+verdure, and higher up on the land, extensive woods; a considerable
+quantity of wine is made there, which, being a little manufactured at
+Funchal, passes for true Madeira. As usual in Portuguese colonial towns,
+the church and convent are very conspicuous. When we passed Porto Santo,
+and the Desertas, and anchored in Funchal roads, I was disappointed at
+the calmness of my own feelings, looking at these distant islands with
+as little emotion as if I had passed a headland in the channel. Well do
+I remember, when I first saw Funchal twelve years ago, the joyous
+eagerness with which I feasted my eyes upon the first foreign country I
+had ever approached, the curiosity to see every stone and tree of the
+new land, which kept my spirits in a kind of happy fever.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Sweet Memory, wafted by thy gentle gale,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oft up the stream of time I turn my sail,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To view the fairy haunts of long lost hours,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Blest with far greener shades, far fresher flow'rs."&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="smcap">Rogers</span>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Now I look on them tamely, or at best only as parts of the lovely
+landscape, which, just at sunset, the time we anchored, was particularly
+beautiful. Surely the few years added to my age have not done this? May
+I not rather hope, that having seen lands whose monuments are all
+history, and whose associations are all poetry, I have a higher taste,
+and more discriminating eye? One object never palls&mdash;that ocean where
+the Almighty "Glasses himself in tempests," or over which the gentle
+wings of peace seem to brood. The feeling that there was a change,
+however, either in the scene or in me, was so strong, that I ran to my
+cabin and sought out a sketch I had made in 1809. I compared it with the
+town. Every point of the hill, every house was the same, and again Nossa
+Senhora da Monte, with her brilliant white towers shining from on high
+through the evening cloud, seemed to sanctify the scene, while a few
+rough voices from the shore and the neighbouring ships chaunted the Ave
+Maria.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning of the 19th, we took a large party of the
+midshipmen on shore to enjoy the young pleasure of walking on a foreign
+land. To them it was new to see the palm, the cypress, and the yucca,
+together with the maize, banana, and sugar-cane, surrounded by
+vineyards, while the pine and chesnut clothe the hills. We mounted the
+boys on mules, and rode up to the little parish church, generally
+mistaken for a convent, called Nossa Senhora da Monte. My maid and I
+went in a bad sort of palankeen, though convenient for these roads,
+which are the worst I have seen; however, the view made up for the
+difficulty of getting to it. The sea with the Desertas bounded the
+prospect: below us lay the roadstead and shipping, the town and gardens,
+and the hill clothed with vineyards and trees of every climate, which
+deck the ashy tufa, or compact basalt of which the whole island seems to
+be composed. Purchas, who like Bowles, believes the story of the
+discovery of Madeira by the Englishman Masham and his dying mistress,
+says, that shortly after that event, the woods having taken fire burned
+so fiercely, that the inhabitants were forced out to sea to escape from
+the flames. The woods, however, are again pretty thick, and some
+inferior mahogany among it is used for furniture. The pine is too soft
+for most purposes. In the gardens we found a large blue hydrangea very
+common: the fuschia is the usual hedge. Mixed with that splendid shrub,
+aloes, prickly pear, euphorbia, and cactus, serve for the coarser
+fences; and these strange vegetables, together with innumerable lizards
+and insects, tell us we are nearing the tropics.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a very happy day at the hospitable country house of Mr.
+Wardrope, and our cavalcade to the town at night was delightful. The
+boys, mounted as before, together with several gentlemen who had joined
+us at Mr. W.'s, enjoyed the novelty of riding home by torch-light; and
+as we wound down the hill, the voices of the muleteers answering each
+other, or encouraging their beasts with a kind of rude song, completed
+the scene. The evening was fine, and the star-light lovely: we embarked
+in two shore boats at the custom-house gate, and, after being duly
+hailed by the guard-boat, a strange machine mounting one old rusty 6
+lb. carronade, we reached the ship in very good time.</p>
+
+<p>20th. We walked a good deal about the town, and entered the cathedral
+with some feelings of reverence, for a part of it at least was built by
+Don Henry of Portugal, who founded and endowed the college adjoining.
+The interior of the church is in some parts gaudy, and there is a silver
+rail of some value. The ceiling is of cedar, richly carved, and reminds
+me of some of the old churches at Venice, which present a style half
+Gothic half Saracenic. Near the church a public garden has lately been
+formed, and some curious exotic trees placed there with great success.</p>
+
+<p>In rambling about the town, we naturally enquired for the chapel of
+skulls, the ugliness of which had shocked us when here formerly, and
+were not sorry to find that that hideous monument of bad taste is
+falling fast to ruin. I cannot imagine how such fantastic horrors can
+ever have been sanctified, but so it is; and the Indian fakir who
+fastens a real skull round his neck, the Roman pilgrim who hangs a model
+of one to his rosary, and the friar who decks his oratory with a
+thousand of them, are one and all acted upon either by the same real
+superstition, or spiritual vanity, craving to distinguish itself even by
+disgusting peculiarities.</p>
+
+<p>Of late years superstition has been used as an instrument of no small
+power in revolutions of every kind. Even here it has played its part. A
+small chapel, dedicated to St. Sebastian, had been removed by the
+Portuguese government in order to erect a market-place, where all
+articles of daily consumption were to be sold, a small tax being levied
+on the holders of stands. This innovation was of course disagreeable to
+the people, and on the night of the revolution, in November last, some
+of their leading orators accused the market-place of having, by rudely
+thrusting out St. Sebastian, occasioned the failure of the vineyards,
+and threatened the ruin of the island. The market-place was instantly
+devoted; it was down in a few seconds, and a chapel to St. Sebastian
+begun. Men, women, and children worked all night, and the walls were
+raised to at least two-thirds of the intended height; but day brought
+weariness, and perhaps the morning breeze chilled the fever of
+enthusiasm. The voluntary labourers worked no more, and no subscription
+adequate to the hire of workmen to complete it has yet been raised: so
+that the new St. Sebastian's stands roofless, and the officiating priest
+performs his masses with no other canopy than the heavens.</p>
+
+<p>Other and better consequences have, however, arisen from the revolution
+of November. The grievances of the inhabitants of Madeira were severe.
+The sons of the best families were seized arbitrarily, and sent to serve
+in the armies of Europe or Brazil: scarcely any article, however
+necessary, or however coarse, was permitted to be manufactured; the very
+torches, made of twisted grass and resin, so necessary for travelling
+these mountain roads after sunset, were all sent from Lisbon, and every
+species of cultivation, but that of the grape, discountenanced. Thus
+situated, every class joined heart and hand in the revolution: deputies
+were sent to the Cortes; petitions respecting the state of agriculture,
+manufactures, and commerce, were presented; and many, perhaps most, of
+the grievances were redressed, or at least much lightened.</p>
+
+<p>Till the year 1821, there had never been a printing-press in Madeira;
+but the promoters of the revolution sent to England for one, which is
+now set up in Funchal; and on the 2d of July, 1821, the first newspaper,
+under the name of <span class="smcap">Patriota Funchalense</span>, appeared. It contained a well
+written patriotic preface; and the first article is a declaration of the
+rights of citizens, and of the pretensions of the Portuguese nation, its
+religion, government, and royal family, as adopted by the Cortes for the
+basis of the constitution to be formed for its government. The paper has
+continued to be published twice a week: it contains a few political
+addresses and discourses; all foreign intelligence; some tolerable
+papers on distilling, agriculture, manufactures, and similar topics;
+some humorous pieces in prose and verse; poems <i>on several occasions</i>;
+and, at the end of the month, a table of the receipts and expenditures
+of government. Among the advertisements I observe one informing the
+public where <i>leeches</i> may be bought at about two shillings and sixpence
+a piece.</p>
+
+<p>I thought it curious to observe this first dawning of literature and
+interest in politics in this little island. There are certainly enough
+anglicisms in the paper, to point out the probable country of some of
+the writers; and there are, as might be looked for, some traces of the
+residence of British troops in the colony; but on the whole, the paper
+is creditable to the editors, and likely to be useful to the island. I
+hear the articles on the making of wines and brandies very highly spoken
+of. Madeira, lying in the finest climate in the world, beautiful and
+fertile, and easy of access to foreigners, ought not to be a mere half
+civilised colony.</p>
+
+<p>23d.&mdash;We sailed yesterday from Funchal, and soon lost sight of the</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i3">"Filha do oceano<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">Do undoso campo flor, gentil <span class="smcap">Madeira</span>." &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="smcap">Diniz</span>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>At night, I sat a long time on the deck, listening to the sea songs with
+which the crew beguile the evening watch. Though the humorous songs were
+applauded sufficiently, yet the plaintive and pathetic seemed the
+favourites; and the chorus to the Death of Wolfe was swelled by many
+voices. Oh, who shall say that fame is not a real good! It is twice
+blessed&mdash;it blesses him who earns, and those who give, to parody the
+words of Shakspeare. Here, on the wide ocean, far from the land of
+Wolfe's birth, and that of his gallant death, his story was raising and
+swelling the hearts of rough men, and exciting love of country and of
+glory by the very sound of his name. Well may <i>he</i> be called a
+benefactor to his country who, by increasing the list of patriotic
+sailors' songs, has fostered those feelings and energies which have
+placed Britain's "home upon the mountain wave, and her march upon the
+deep."</p>
+
+<p>The charms of night in a southern climate have been dwelt upon by
+travelled poets (for I call Madame de Stael's writings poetry), and even
+travelled prose writers; but Lord Byron alone has sketched with
+knowledge and with love, the moonlight scenery of a frigate in full
+sail. The life of a seaman is the essence of poetry; change, new
+combinations, danger, situations from almost deathlike calm, to the
+maddest combinations of horror&mdash;every romantic feeling called forth, and
+every power of heart and intellect exercised. Man, weak as he is,
+baffling the elements, and again seeing that miracle of his invention,
+the tall ship he sails in, tossed to and fro, like the lightest feather
+from the seabird's wing&mdash;while he can do nothing but resign himself to
+the will of Him who alone can stay the proud waves, and on whom heart,
+intellect, and feeling, all depend!</p>
+
+<p>25th.&mdash;Nothing can be finer than the approach to Teneriffe<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a>,
+especially on such a day as this; the peak now appearing through the
+floating clouds, and now entirely veiled by them. As we drew near the
+coast, the bay or rather roadstead of Oratava, surrounded by a singular
+mixture of rocks, and woods, and scattered towns, started forth at once
+from beneath the mists, which seemed to separate it from the peak, whose
+cold blue colour formed a strong contrast to the glowing red and yellow
+which autumn had already spread on the lower grounds.</p>
+
+<p>We anchored in forty fathoms water with our chain-cable, as the bottom
+is very rocky, excepting where a pretty wide river, which, though now
+dry, rolls a considerable body of water to the sea in the rainy season,
+has deposited a bed of black mud. There are many rocks in the bay, with
+from one to three fathoms water, and within them from nine to ten. The
+swell constantly setting in is very great, and renders the anchorage
+uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p>26th.&mdash;- I went ashore with Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant, and two of
+the young midshipmen, for the purpose of riding to the Villa di Oratava,
+which is situated where the ancient Guanche capital stood. We landed at
+the Puerto di Oratava, several miles from the villa: it is defended by
+some small batteries, at one of which is the very difficult
+landing-place, sheltered by a low reef of rocks that runs far out, and
+occasions a heavy surf. I took my own saddle ashore: and being mounted
+on a fine mule, we all began our journey towards the hill. The road is
+rough, but has evidently once been made with some pains, and paved with
+blocks of porous lava; but the winter rains have long ago destroyed it,
+and it does not seem to be any body's business to put it in repair.</p>
+
+<p>The first quarter of a mile on either hand presented a scene so black
+and stony, that I was surprised to learn that we had been passing
+through corn land; the harvest was over, and the stubble burned on the
+ground. The produce here is scanty; but being so near the port, it
+repays the labour and expense of cultivation. We saw the botanical
+garden so much praised by Humboldt; but it is in sad disorder, having
+been for some time entirely neglected. However, the very establishment
+of such a thing brings in new plants, and perhaps naturalises them.
+Here, the sago-palm, platanus, and tamarind, as well as the flowers and
+vegetables of the north of Europe, flourish so well as to promise to add
+permanently to the riches of this rich island. As we ascended towards
+the villa the prospect improved; the vineyards appeared in greatest
+beauty, every other crop still standing in the luxuriant valleys, the
+rocky cliffs of the mountains clothed with wood, and every thing glowing
+with life. Wheat, barley, a few oats, maize, potatoes, and caravansas,
+all grow freely here. The food of the common people consists chiefly of
+Polenta, or maize flour, used nearly as the Scotch peasants use their
+oatmeal, in cakes, brose, or porridge, which last is suffered to grow
+cold, and then most commonly cut in slices and toasted. After the maize,
+potatoes are the favourite food, together with salt fish. The potatoe is
+always in season, being planted every month, and consequently producing
+a monthly crop. The fishery employs from forty-five to fifty vessels of
+from seventy to ninety tons' burden, from the island of Teneriffe alone;
+the fish are taken on the coast of Africa, and salted here.</p>
+
+<p>To a stranger the sight of the long walls of black porous lava, built
+terrace-wise to support the vegetable mould, is very striking; but the
+walls cannot be called ugly, while the clustering vine and
+broad-spreading gourd, climb and find support on them: these, however,
+soon disappeared, and were replaced by field and garden enclosures.
+After a pleasant but hot ride, we arrived at the villa about noon, and
+went to the house of Se&ntilde;or Don Antonio de Monteverde, who accompanied us
+to M. Franqui's garden, to see one of the wonders of the island, the
+famous Dragon Tree. Humboldt has celebrated this tree in its vigour;
+it is now a noble ruin. In July, 1819, one half of its enormous crown
+fell: the wound is plaistered up, the date of the misfortune marked on
+it, and as much care is taken of the venerable vegetable as will ensure
+it for at least another century. I sat down to make a sketch of it; and
+while I was drawing, learned from Mr. Galway the following history of
+the family of its owner, which a little skill in language and a little
+adorning with sentiment might convert into a modern novel.&mdash;About the
+year 1760, the Marquis Franqui, upon some disgust, made over his estates
+in trust to his brother, and emigrated to France, where he remained
+until 1810, regularly receiving the proceeds from his estates in
+Teneriffe. Meantime, during the early period of the revolution, he
+married; and his only child, a daughter, was born. This marriage,
+however, was only a civil contract, such being then the law of France,
+and with a woman divorced from another, who was still living. But
+neither the validity of the union nor the legitimacy of the child was
+ever questioned; and the Marquis Franqui returning to his native
+country, brought with him his daughter, introducing and treating her as
+his heiress. She appeared to be received as such by his family; and at
+his death he appointed trustworthy guardians to her and her estates, one
+of whom is her husband's father. No sooner, however, was the Marquis
+dead, than his brother claimed his property, alleging that the church
+had never sanctioned the Marquis's marriage, and that the daughter
+consequently, as an illegitimate child, could have no claim on his
+estates. He therefore commenced a lawsuit against her and her guardians,
+and the suit is still pending. Meantime the court receives the rents;
+the garden, the chief ornament of the town, is running wild, and the
+house is deserted.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="dragon" id="dragon"></a><a href="images/003.png">
+<img src="images/003tb.png" alt="Dragon Tree and Peak of Teneriffe." />
+<br />Dragon Tree and Peak of Teneriffe.</a></p>
+
+<p>The dragon tree is the slowest of growth among vegetables; it seems also
+to be slowest in decay. In the 15th century, that of Oratava had
+attained the height and size which it boasted till 1819. It may have
+been in its prime for centuries before; and scarcely less than a
+thousand years must have elapsed, before it attained its full size.
+Excepting the dragon trees at Madeira, the only many-headed palm I had
+seen before was that at Mazagong in Bombay. It is crowned, however, with
+a leaf like that of the palmetto; but the tufts of the dragon tree
+resemble the yucca in growth. The palm tree at Mazagong, like the
+adansonia in Salsette, is reported to have been carried thither by a
+pilgrim from Africa, probably from Upper Egypt, where late travellers
+mention this palm.</p>
+
+<p>On our return from the garden to Don Antonio's house, we were most
+kindly received by his wife and daughter, the latter of whom played a
+long and difficult piece of music most excellently. It was, however,
+English, in compliment to us, though we should have preferred some of
+her own national airs. After the music, we were conducted to a table
+spread in the gallery that surrounds the open court in the middle of the
+house, and covered with fruits, sweetmeats, and wines, which were
+pressed upon us most hospitably; till finding it time to return, the
+ladies both embraced me, and we began our journey down the hill, having
+first looked into the churches, which are spacious and handsome, a good
+deal in the style of those of Madeira, but finer.</p>
+
+<p>As we rode along, we observed a large Dominican convent, the only one
+now on the island. The recent law passed by the Spanish Cortes for the
+suppression of religious houses, has been strictly enforced here. No
+more than one convent of each denomination is allowed to subsist, and
+great checks are put on the profession of new members. As to the
+revolution here, the inhabitants had known from authentic though not
+official authority of what had taken place in the mother country, three
+weeks before they received any notification from either court or cortes.
+When notice did arrive, the magistrates assembled the people, read their
+orders, and took their oaths to support the cortes; the people shouted,
+and made a bonfire: next day the forms of law and justice were declared
+to be changed, the tribunals proceeded accordingly, and all was over and
+quiet.</p>
+
+<p>The Canary Islands boast of two bishoprics, both of which are now
+vacant, yet have not one newspaper. The only printing press has been so
+long in disuse that there is nobody who can work it in the country. I
+could not learn that there are any manufactures in Teneriffe; if there
+are, I conclude they must be in the neighbourhood of Laguna or Santa
+Cruz. Oratava appears to be the district of corn and wine.</p>
+
+<p>We returned to the port by a longer road than that by which we left it.
+In the hedges, the boys, with no small delight, gathered fine ripe
+black-berries, which were growing among prickly pear and other tropical
+plants. The fields, vineyards, and orchards we had seen from the former
+road we now passed through; and as it was a <i>fiesta</i>, we saw the
+peasants in their best attire, and their little mud huts cleanly swept
+and garnished. They seem gentle and lively, not much darker than the
+natives of the south of Europe; and if there be a mixture of Guanche
+blood, it is said to be traced in the high cheek-bones, narrow chins,
+and slender hands and feet which in a few districts seem to indicate a
+different race of men. I regret that I had not time to see more of the
+people and the country; but not being travellers from curiosity, and
+belonging to a service that may not swerve from the strictest obedience,
+we dared not even think of a farther excursion.</p>
+
+<p>Halfway down the hill, we entered a ravine, the dry bed of a winter
+torrent, where there were rue, lavender, prickly pear, hypericum, and
+spurge; but not a blade of grass had survived the summer's drought. We
+passed a heap of black ashes, which anywhere but at the base of the peak
+would be called a respectable mountain. It has not been cold long enough
+to be disguised by vegetation; and though on one side the vine is
+beginning to clothe its rugged surface, yet the greater part is
+frightfully barren. Shortly after we passed it, we arrived at Mr.
+Galway's garden-house, and found his lady, a Spaniard of Irish
+extraction, ready to receive us. As I had seen in some old Scotch
+houses, the best bed-chamber served as drawing-room; but the
+dressing-room is apart, and from the front there is an opening to a
+pleasant terrace, commanding a charming view. Our dinner was a mixture
+of English and Spanish cookery and customs: the Spanish part consisted
+of part of a Darter, a very fine fish, white, but resembling a salmon
+in taste, with sauce made of small lobsters, oil, vinegar, garlic, and
+pimento; some excellent stews, and mixtures of vegetables and quails
+roasted in vine leaves; the rest were all English; and the wines, the
+growth of the island, and ices<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> were delicious. Neither the
+pine-apple nor water-melon grow in Teneriffe, but abundance of the
+latter are brought from Grand Canary. All the common garden fruits of
+Europe flourish here; but too little attention is paid to horticulture.
+This island, or at least the part I have seen, evidently belongs to a
+state that has once been great; but is now too poor or too weak to
+foster its foreign possessions. Some fine houses begun are in an
+unfinished state, and appear to have been so for years; others, though
+falling, are neither rebuilt nor repaired; and the only things like
+present prosperity, are the neat English country-houses.</p>
+
+<p>It was sunset before we reached the boats that were to convey us to the
+ship; and we had some difficulty both in getting off and in going
+alongside of the frigate, owing to the great swell. The night, however,
+was fine, and the scene enlivened by the lights in the fishing boats,
+which, like those in the Mediterranean, are used to attract the fish. On
+shore, the lights of the ports and villa, and the fires of the charcoal
+burners shining from amidst the dark hanging forests of pine, and those
+of the limekilns in the direction of Laguna, appeared like a brilliant
+illumination; and there being not a cloud, the outline of the peak was
+well defined on the deep blue of the nocturnal sky.</p>
+
+<p>27th <i>August</i>. To-day, some of our new friends, both Spanish and
+English, came on board; but the swell was so great, that only one
+escaped sea-sickness. Mrs. Galway was fearful of suffering, so did not
+come, but she sent me some of the beads found in the sepulchres of the
+Guanches: they are of hard baked clay. Mr. Humboldt, whose imagination
+was naturally full of South America, has conjectured that they might
+have been used for the same purpose as the Peruvian <i>quipos</i>, but they
+are inconveniently large for that use. They are not unlike the beads
+Belzoni found in the mummy pits in Egypt, and they closely resemble some
+of the many kinds of beads with which the Bramins have counted their
+muntras time immemorial. The Oriental custom of dropping a bead for
+every prayer having been adopted by the Christians of the west, and
+still continuing in Roman Catholic countries, appears, on that account,
+too common to deserve the notice of a philosophical traveller; and
+therefore the Guanche shepherds, or goatherd kings, are rather supposed,
+like the polished Peruvians, to have recorded the annals of their reigns
+with clay beads, than allowed to tell them with their orisons, like the
+Bramins of the Ganges, the shepherds of Mesopotamia, or the anchorets of
+Palestine and Egypt, because the modern monk does the same. The Guanche
+mummies are now of very rare occurrence. During the early times of the
+Spanish government of the island, their sepulchres were carefully
+concealed by the natives; now, intermarriage with their conquerors, and
+consequent change of religion and habits, have rendered them careless of
+them, and they are, generally speaking, really forgotten, and only
+discovered accidentally in planting a new vineyard, or ploughing a new
+field.</p>
+
+<p>28th. This morning left the "still vext" bay of Oratava, and before
+sunset saw Palma and Gomera. The Canary Islands, supposed to be the
+Fortunate Islands of the ancients, were discovered accidentally in 1405.
+Betancour, a Frenchman, took possession of them for Spain; but the
+natives were brave, and it cost both the Spaniards and Portuguese, who
+possessed them by turns, much blood and treasure to conquer the country
+and exterminate the people, for their wars ended in nothing less.
+Purchas complains that he could not obtain the reading of some travels
+by an Englishman who had visited the Peak; the good pilgrim's curiosity
+had been strongly excited by the particulars he had learnt from books,
+and the journals of some of his friends who had travelled, which he has
+carefully related: they are such as to make me regret that he has not
+recorded more, and that I cannot see more. We brought with us from
+Oratava one of the finest goats I ever saw; I presume she was a
+descendant of the original flock which the supreme deity of the Guanches
+created to be the property of the kings alone: she is brown, with very
+long twisted horns, a very remarkable white beard, and the largest udder
+I ever saw.</p>
+
+<p>29th. Passed the island of Hierro or Ferro, the old first meridian;
+which honour, I presume, it enjoyed from having been considered as the
+most western land in the world until the discovery of America. We were
+very close to it, and all agreed that we never saw so hard-looking and
+inaccessible a place. We saw some fine woods, a few scattered houses,
+and one village perched upon a hill, at least 1500 feet above us. The
+Peak of Teneriffe still visible above the clouds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sept.</i> 1st. The flying-fish are become very numerous, and whole fleets
+of medus&aelig; have passed us; some we have picked up, besides a very
+beautiful purple sea-snail. This fish has four horns, like a snail, the
+shell is very beautifully tinted with purple, and there is a spongy
+substance attached to the fish which I thought assisted it to swim: it
+is larger in bulk than the whole fish. One of them gave out fully a
+quarter of an ounce of purple fluid from the lower part of the fish. A
+fine yellow locust and a swallow flew on board; and as we believe
+ourselves to be four hundred miles from the nearest land, Cape Blanco,
+we cannot enough admire the structure of the wings that have borne them
+so far.</p>
+
+<p>Our school for the ship's boys is now fairly established, and does Mr.
+Hyslop, our school-master, great credit; that for the midshipmen is
+going on very well, being kept in the fore-cabin under the captain's
+eye. The boys have his presence, not only as a check to idleness or
+noise, but as an encouragement to industry. He is most anxious to make
+them fit to be officers and seamen in their profession, and good men and
+gentlemen both at sea and on shore. Happily they are all promising; but
+if G&mdash;&mdash; should disappoint us, I never will believe in youthful talent,
+industry, or goodness more. Our days pass swiftly, because busily. The
+regular business of the ship, the school, astronomical observations,
+study of history and modern languages, and nothing permitted to pass
+without observation, fill our time completely.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Bacon says, "It is a strange thing that in sea voyages, where there
+is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in
+land travel, wherein so much is to be observed, for the most part they
+omit it, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation."
+However, for once, his lordship has only seen, or perhaps only spoken,
+in part. Sea and sky must be observed before we can know the laws by
+which their great changes or chances are regulated. Observations on the
+works of man, as cities, courts, &amp;c. may be omitted, for we know their
+authors, and can have recourse to them, their motives, and their
+history, whenever we please; but the great operations of nature are so
+above us, that we must humbly mark them, and endeavour to make their
+history a part of our experience, in order that we pass safely through
+their vicissitudes. Hence it is, that the commonest details of the early
+navigators, their sunrise and sunset, their daily portionings of food
+and water, are read with a deeper interest than the liveliest tour
+through civilised countries and populous cities; that Byron's passage
+through Chiloe continues to excite the most profound sympathy; while
+Moore's lively view of society and manners in France or Italy, are now
+seldom or languidly read. The uncertainty, the mystery of nature, keep
+up a perpetual curiosity; but I suspect that if we knew the progress and
+dependance of her operations, as well as we do those of an architect or
+brick-layer, the history of the building of a theatre or a
+dwelling-house might vie in interest with that of a sea voyage.</p>
+
+<p>The books we intend our boys to read are,&mdash;history, particularly that of
+<i>Greece</i>, <i>Rome</i>, <i>England</i>, and <i>France</i>; an outline of general
+history, voyages, and discoveries; some poetry, and general literature,
+in French and English; Delolme, with the concluding chapter of
+Blackstone on the history of the law and the constitution of England;
+and afterwards the first volume of Blackstone, Bacon's Essays, and
+Paley. We have only three years to work in; and as the <i>business</i> of
+their life is to learn their profession, including mathematics,
+algebra, nautical astronomy, theory and practice of seamanship, and duty
+as officers, with all the <i>technicalities</i> belonging to it,&mdash;this is all
+we dare propose.</p>
+
+<p>5th. We have begun to look forward to that festival of the seamen, the
+crossing the line. I know not whence the custom is derived, but the
+Arabs observe it with ceremonies not very unlike those practised by our
+own sailors. To-day a letter, containing a sketch of the intended
+festival, with thanks for permission to keep it, was sent into the
+cabin. I shall copy it with its answer. I find that some captains have
+begun to give money at the next port, instead of permitting this day of
+misrule. Perhaps they may be right, and perhaps in time it may be
+forgotten; but will it be better that it should be so? It is the
+sailors' only festival; and I like a festival: it gives the heart room
+to play. The head in one class, and the limbs in another, work every
+day, and in divers, if not opposite directions; but on a festival, the
+hearts of all beat the same way: yet I would not have them too often,
+for</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"If every day were playing holiday,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To sport would be as tedious as to work;"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>the converse of the proverb, "All work and no play, makes Jack a dull
+boy." But to our letters.</p>
+
+<p>"The sons of Neptune, of His Majesty's ship Doris, commanded by Captain
+T.G., return their most grateful thanks for his kind condescension for
+granting them the favour that has been allowed to them from time
+immemorial, in crossing the Equinoctial, on our Old Father Neptune's
+dominions, when we hope the characters will meet your Honour's
+approbation, which will appear in the margin.</p>
+
+<table summary="names" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1">
+<tr><td>Thomas Clark, quarter-master, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Neptune.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Ware, forecastle, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Amphitrite.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>W. Knight, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Amphitrite's Son.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>W. Sullivan, 2d captain main-top, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Triton.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>C. Brisbane (<i>negro</i>), </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Triton's Horse.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Thompson, gunner's mate, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> High Sheriff.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. White, forecastle, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Sub Sheriff.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>W. Sinclair, captain forecastle, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Barber.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Smith, J. Forster, Michael Jaque,  </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Barber's Mates.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Gaggin, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Clerk.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>W. Bird, captain fore-top, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Chief Constable.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="3">Nine assistants.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Duncan, boatswain's mate, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Coachman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Clark, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Postilion.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Leath, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Footman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Speed, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Painter.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>W. Lundy, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Bottle-holder.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>W. Williamson, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Satan.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. Williams, </td><td>&mdash;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-left: 3em;"> Judge Advocate.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="3">Eight Sea-horses.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>"So we have given you as good a relation as possibly our weak abilities
+afford us; and, honoured Captain, believe us when we say, we wish you
+every happiness this life can afford, and your honoured lady entirely
+included, and believe us yours, &amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p class="r">"<span class="smcap">Britton's Sons</span>."<br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Answer.</i></p>
+
+<p>"I received your letter with the list of characters that are to appear
+in Father Neptune's train on our crossing the line, of which I
+completely approve. I have to thank you for your kind wishes both for
+Mrs. G&mdash;&mdash; and myself, and to assure you, that the greatest pleasure I
+can feel in the command of this ship, will be in promoting the happiness
+and comfort of the whole of Britain's sons on board the Doris.</p>
+
+<p><span style="margin-left: 25%;">"Believe me your sincere friend,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 50%;"><span class="smcap">Thos. G&mdash;&mdash;,</span></span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>
+"H.M.S. Doris, at Sea, Sept 5th, 1821.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5%;">To Britain's Sons, H.M.S. Doris."</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>It would be worth while to enquire into the origin of the merry-making
+on crossing the line. As the Arabs, an astronomical people, have it, it
+has probably some reference to their now-forgotten worship of the
+heavenly bodies. Like us, they set on fire some combustible matter or
+other, and let it float away, but they add some food to it, as if there
+had once been a sacrifice accompanying the festival. Such, at least, I
+have been assured by several gentleman well acquainted with the Arab
+traders in the Eastern sea, is their practice.</p>
+
+<p>18th. We have done nothing but sail on with very variable weather, for
+the last thirteen days.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"From world to world our steady course we keep,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Swift as the winds along the waters sweep,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mid the mute nations of the purple deep."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>One night we observed that luminous appearance of the sea so often
+described, but it was not so brilliant as I remember to have seen it
+near the same latitude. The next morning we found the temperature of the
+sea, at the surface, two degrees higher than that of the atmosphere.
+Last night at 8 P. M. we crossed the line: to-day, accordingly, our
+Saturnalian festival took place.</p>
+
+<p>About six o'clock P. M. yesterday, the officer of the watch was informed
+that there was a boat with lights alongside, and begged to shorten sail.
+The captain immediately went on deck, and Neptune hailed from the fore
+part of the rigging, "What ship?" "Doris." "Who commands?" "Captain T.
+G." "Where from?" "Whitehall." "Where bound?" "A man of war's cruize."
+Upon which Triton mounted upon a sea-horse, admirably represented,
+appeared as bearer of a letter containing the names of all who had not
+yet crossed the line, and who were consequently to be initiated into the
+mysteries of the Water God. Triton having thus executed his commission,
+rode off, and was seen no more till 8 o'clock this morning, when Neptune
+being announced, the captain went on deck to receive him.</p>
+
+<p>First came Triton mounted as before, then a company of sea-gods or
+constables dressed in oakum and swabs, but having their arms and
+shoulders bare, excepting the paint which bedaubed them. Neptune with
+trident and crown, Amphitrite by his side, and their son at their feet,
+appeared in a car drawn by eight sea-horses, and driven by a sea god:
+the train followed in the persons of the lawyers, barbers, and painters.
+The whole pageant was well dressed, and going in procession, fully as
+picturesque as any antique triumphal or religious ceremony; the fine
+forms of some of the actors struck me exceedingly. I never saw marble
+more beautiful than some of the backs and shoulders displayed; and the
+singular clothing to imitate fishes instead of legs, and seaweed skirts,
+which they had all adopted, carried one back for centuries, to the time
+when all this was religion.</p>
+
+<p>After the progress round the decks, a conference with the captain, and a
+libation in the form of a glass of brandy, to which the god and goddess
+vied with each other in devotion, the merriment began. Mock-shaving, or
+a fine paid, was necessary to admit the new comers to the good graces of
+their watery father; and while he was superintending the business, all
+the rest of the ship's company, officers and all, proceeded to duck each
+other unmercifully. None but women escaped, and that only by staying in
+my cabin. The officer of the watch, sentries, quartermasters, and such
+as are absolutely necessary to look after the ship, are of course held
+sacred; so that some order is still preserved. It seemed really that
+"madness ruled the hour;" but at the appointed moment, half past eleven,
+all ceased: by noon, every body was at his duty, the decks were dried,
+and the ship restored to her wonted good order. The whole of our gunroom
+officers dine with us, and we flatter ourselves that we shall end the
+day as happily as we have begun it.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a></p>
+
+<p>20th. The long tiresome calms, and the beautiful moonlight nights near
+the equator, have been talked of, and written of, till we know all about
+them. Mention but passing the line, and you conjure up a wide,
+apparently interminable, glassy dull sea: sails flapping, a solitary
+bird sinking with heat, or a shark rising lazily to catch a bait; or, at
+best, a calm warm night, with a soft moonlight silvering over the
+<i>treacherous</i> deep, and rendering the beholders, who ought to be lovers
+if they are not, insensible of the rocks that may lurk below.&mdash;But our's
+was not the <i>beau id&eacute;al</i> of crossing the line: we had fresh breezes in
+the day, and thunder and lightning at night; saw few tropic birds, and
+those very vigorous, and fish more nimble than sharks, or even sun-fish,
+of which, however, we met a due proportion. I had once been in a
+tropical calm, and I really, after trying them both, prefer the breezes
+and thunder-storms. The other night we had one, such as Milton talks of:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i2">"Either tropic now<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">'Gan thunder, and both ends of heav'n: the clouds<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">From many a horrid rift abortive poured<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fierce rain with lightning mixt, water with fire<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">In ruin reconciled; nor slept the winds<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Within their stoney caves, but rush'd abroad<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">From the four hinges of the world, and fell<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On the vext wilderness."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>I never see a thunder-storm at sea, but it reminds me of the vision of
+Ezekiel:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i1">"The sapphire blaze,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where angels tremble while they gaze."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>It is awful and grand every where: fearful in the plain, sublime among
+the mountains; but here, on the ocean, with nothing to intercept its
+bolt, the horrible is superadded, and he must be more or less than man
+that does not at least take thought during its continuance.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, September</i> 21st. At length we are in sight of the coast of
+Brazil, which here is low and green, about two degrees to the northward
+of the point first discovered by Vincente Pinzon, in 1500.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> The
+weather is very squally, and there is a heavy swell: we are anchored
+about eight miles from Olinda, the capital of Pernambuco, in fifteen
+fathoms water, but though we have fired more than one gun for a pilot,
+none seems to be coming off.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="b" id="b"></a><img src="images/004.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>Pernambuco, September</i> 22. 1821.&mdash;At nine o'clock the commodore of this
+place, whose office is a combination of port-admiral and commissioner,
+came on board with the harbour-master, and the ship was guided by the
+latter to the anchorage, which is about three miles from the town, in
+eight fathoms water. The roadstead is quite open, and we find here a
+very heavy swell. It is not wonderful that our guns were neither
+answered nor noticed last night. Mr. Dance, having been sent on shore
+with official letters to the governor and the acting English consul,
+found the place in a state of siege, and brought back with him Colonel
+Patronhe, the governor's aide-de-camp, who gave us the following account
+of the present state of Pernambuco:</p>
+
+<p>Besides the disposition to revolution, which we were aware had long
+existed in every part of Brazil, there was, also, a jealousy between the
+Portuguese and Brazilians, which recent events had increased in no small
+degree. On the 29th of August, about 600 men of the militia and other
+native forces had taken possession of the Villa of Goyana, one of the
+principal places in this captaincy, and had forcibly entered the
+town-house, where they had declared the government of Luiz do Rego to be
+at an end. They proceeded to elect a temporary provisional government
+for Goyana, to act until the capital of the province should be in a
+condition to establish a constitutional junta; and in order to
+accelerate that event, they had collected forces of every kind, and
+among them several companies of the Ca&ccedil;adores who had deserted from Luiz
+do Rego; with these troops, such as they are, they had marched towards
+Pernambuco, and last night they had attacked the two main points of
+Olinda, to the north, in four different places, and Affogados to the
+south. They were, however, repulsed by the royal troops, under the
+governor, with the loss of fourteen killed and thirty-five prisoners,
+while the royalists had two killed, and seven wounded. This morning the
+alarm of the town's people was increased by finding several armed men
+concealed in the belfreys of the churches, whither also they had
+conveyed several stands of arms. Luiz do Rego is a soldier, and attached
+to the royal cause. He served long with the English army in Portugal and
+Spain, and, if I mistake not, distinguished himself at the siege of St.
+Sebastian's. He is rather a severe man, and, especially among the
+soldiers, more feared than loved.&mdash;Great part of the regiment of
+Ca&ccedil;adores has left him to join the patriots, and formed the most
+efficient corps in the attack last night. The towns-people have been
+formed into a militia, tolerably armed and trained. The town is pretty
+well supplied with mandioc flour, jerked beef, and salt fish; but the
+besiegers prevent all fresh provisions from coming in. All shops are
+shut, and all food scarce and dear. Most people who have property of
+value, in plate or jewels, have packed it up, and lodged it in the
+houses of the English merchants. Many persons with their wives and
+families have left their homes in the out-skirts of the town, and have
+taken refuge with the English. The latter, who, for the most part,
+sleep, at least, in country houses in the neighbourhood, called sitios,
+have left them, and remain altogether at their counting-houses in the
+port: every thing, in short, is alarm and uncertainty.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d.</i>&mdash;The night passed quietly, and so indeed did the day. Many
+messages have passed between us and the land, but I could not go on
+shore: we have excellent oranges, and tolerable vegetables from the
+town, and have been quite enough amused in observing the curious little
+boats, canoes, catamarans and jangadas, that have been sailing, and
+paddling, and rowing round the ship. The jangada resembles nothing I
+have ever seen before; six or eight logs are made fast together by two
+transverse beams; at one end there is a raised seat, on which a man
+places himself to steer, for they are furnished with a sort of rudder;
+sometimes the seat is large enough to admit of two sitters, another
+bench at the foot of a mast, immense for the size of the raft, holds
+clothes and provisions, or an upright pole is fixed in one of the logs,
+to which these things are suspended, and a large triangular sail of
+cotton cloth completes the jangada, in which the hardy Brazilian sailor
+ventures to sea, the waves constantly washing over it, and carries
+cargoes of cotton or other goods, or, in case of necessity, letters and
+despatches, hundreds of miles in safety.</p>
+
+<p>About three o'clock a large canoe with two patriot officers came along
+side, to ascertain if we were really English; if we had come, as was
+reported, to assist the royalists, or if we would assist them: so apt
+are men, under the influence of strong feeling themselves, to doubt of
+perfect indifference in others, that I question much whether they
+believed in the strict neutrality we profess. They left us, however,
+without betraying any particular anxiety, and made a very circuitous
+passage home, in order to avoid the Recife cruizer, which was looking
+out for straggling boats or vessels of any description belonging to the
+patriots.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday the 24th.</i>&mdash;Col. Patronhe arrived early this morning, to request
+that the English packet might put into Lisbon with the Government
+despatches. We felt glad that the strict rules of service prevented the
+captain from giving any such order to the master of the packet. It would
+be at once a breach of that neutrality we profess to observe, and, in my
+opinion, an aiding of the worst cause. The colonel, adverting to the
+town being in a state of siege, and the uncertainty of the next attack
+as to time and place, advised me strongly to stay altogether on board;
+but I had never seen a town in a state of siege, and therefore resolved
+to go ashore. Accordingly, Mr. Dance, being the only officer on board
+who speaks either Portuguese or French, was commissioned to accompany
+me; and I took two midshipmen, Grey and Langford, also to call on Madame
+do Rego.</p>
+
+<p>The name of Pernambuco, which is that of the captainship, is now
+generally applied to the capital, which consists of two parts; 1st, the
+city of Olinda, which was founded by the Portuguese, under Duarte Coelho
+Pedreiro, about 1530 or 1540, and, as its name implies, on a beautiful
+spot, where moderate, but abrupt hills, a fine river, and thick wood,
+combine to charm the eye; but the approach to it by sea must always have
+been difficult, if not dangerous: and, 2nd, the town of Recife de
+Pernambuco, or the Reef of Pernambuco, built by the Dutch, under Maurice
+of Nassau, and by them called Maurice Town. It is a singular spot, well
+fitted for trade; it is situated upon several sand banks, divided by
+salt water creeks and the mouth of two fresh water rivers, connected by
+three bridges, and divided into as many parts; Recife, properly so
+called, where are the castles of defence, and the dock-yard, and the
+traders; Sant Antonio, where are the government house, the two principal
+churches, one for the white and one for the black population; and Boa
+Vista, where the richer merchants, or more idle inhabitants, live among
+their gardens, and where convents, churches, and the bishop's palace,
+give an air of importance to the very neat town around them.</p>
+
+<p>All this I knew before I landed, and thought I was pretty well prepared
+for Pernambuco. But no previous knowledge could do away the wonder with
+which one must enter that very extraordinary port. From the ship, which
+is anchored three miles from the town, we see that vessels lie within a
+reef on which the sea is perpetually breaking, but till I was actually
+within that reef, I had not the least idea of the nature of the harbour:
+the swell going ashore would have seemed tremendous, had we not been
+prepared for it, and made our passage of three miles a very long one. We
+approached the sandy beach between Recife and Olinda so nearly, that I
+thought we were going to land there; when coming abreast of a tower on a
+rock, where the sea was breaking violently, we turned short round, and
+found ourselves within a marvellous natural break-water, heard the surf
+dashing without, and saw the spray, but we ourselves were sailing along
+smoothly and calmly, as if in a mill-pond. The rock of which the reef is
+formed, is said to be coral; but it is so coated with barnacle and
+limpet above barnacle and limpet, that I can see nothing but the
+remainder of these shells for many feet down, and as deep into the rock
+as our hammers will break. It extends from a good way to the northward
+of Paraiba to Olinda, where it sinks under water, and then rises
+abruptly at Recife, and runs on to Cape St. Augustine, where it is
+interrupted by the bold granite head, that shoots through it into the
+ocean: it then reappears, and continues, interruptedly, towards the
+south. The breadth of the harbour here between the reef and the main
+land varies from a few fathoms to three quarters of a mile; the water is
+deep close to the rock, and there the vessels often moor. There is a bar
+at the entrance of the harbour, over which there is, in ordinary tides,
+sixteen feet water, so that ships of considerable burden lie here.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>
+His Majesty's brig Alacrity lay some time within the reef; and two feet
+more water on the bar, would have enabled the Doris to have entered,
+though, as far as I have seen, there would be no room to turn about if
+she wished to go out again. The reef is certainly one of the wonders of
+the world; it is scarcely sixteen feet broad at top. It slopes off more
+rapidly than the Plymouth break-water, to a great depth on the outside,
+and is perpendicular within, to many fathoms. Here and there, a few
+inequalities at the top must formerly have annoyed the harbour in high
+tides or strong winds, but Count Maurice remedied this, by laying huge
+blocks of granite into the faulty places, and has thus rendered the top
+level, and the harbour safe at all times. The Count had intended to
+build warehouses along the reef, but his removal from the government
+prevented his doing so. A small fort near the entrance defends it, and
+indeed always must, so narrow and sudden is the passage. Near it, a
+light-house is in a fair way of being soon finished, at the very
+extremity of the reef, and these are the only two buildings on this
+extraordinary line of rock. We rowed up the harbour among vessels of all
+nations, with the town on one side, and the reef on the other, until we
+came to one of the wide creeks, over which the Dutch built a fine stone
+bridge, now in decay. We were a a good deal struck with the beauty of
+the scene; the buildings are pretty large, and white; the land low and
+sandy, spotted with bright green tufts of grass, and adorned with
+palm-trees. A few years ago a violent flood nearly destroyed the greater
+part of the centre of the bridge, yet the arches still serve to support
+light wooden galleries on each side of it, and the houses and gateways
+are still standing at either end. We landed pretty near the bridge, and
+were received by Colonel Patronhe, who apologised for the governor, who
+could not come to receive us, as he was in the council room.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> The
+colonel conducted us to the government house, a very handsome building,
+with a square in front, and a tower, and we entered what had evidently
+been a splendid hall. The gilding and painting still remained on some
+parts of the ceiling and walls; but now it is occupied by horses
+standing ready saddled; soldiers armed, and ready to mount at a moment's
+warning; every thing on the alert; guns in front with lighted matches by
+them, and an air of bustle and importance among the soldiers, that
+excites a sort of sympathetic curiosity as to their possible and
+immediate destination. On going up stairs we found almost as much
+confusion: for the governor has hitherto lived in the very out-skirts of
+the town, and has but just come to the house in Sant Antonio, which was
+formerly the Jesuits' college, partly to be in the centre of business,
+and partly to secure his family, in case of accident, as the besiegers'
+out-posts are very near his former residence. I found Madame do Rego an
+agreeable, rather pretty woman, and speaking English like a native: for
+this she accounted, by informing me that her mother, the Visconde&ccedil;a do
+Rio Seco, was an Irish woman. Nothing could be kinder and more
+flattering than her manner, and that of General do Rego's two daughters,
+whose air and manner are those of really well-bred women, and one of
+them is very handsome. After sitting some little time, refreshments were
+brought in, and shortly after, the governor himself appeared; a fine
+military-looking man. He appeared ill, being still suffering from the
+effects of a wound, he received some months ago, while walking through
+the town with a friend. It has since been ascertained, that the
+instigator of the crime was a certain Ouvidor (judge) whom he had
+displaced shortly after he assumed the government. The assassin fired
+twice; Luiz do Rego received several shots and slugs in his body, but
+the most severe wound was in his left arm. His friend's life was for
+some time despaired of, but both are now nearly well. At the time the
+crime was committed, the perpetrator was seized more than once by some
+of the bye-standers; but as often, a baker's basket was pushed in
+between him and whoever seized him; he threw away his pistols and
+escaped.<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a></p>
+
+<p>Having paid our visit, we proceeded to walk about the town. The streets
+are paved partly with blueish pebbles from the beach, partly with red or
+grey granite. The houses are three or four stories high, built of a
+whitish stone, and all are white-washed, with door-posts and
+window-frames of brown stone. The ground floor consists of shops, or
+lodging for the negroes, and stables: the floor above is generally
+appropriated to counting-houses and ware-rooms; and the dwelling-house
+still higher, the kitchen being universally at the top, by which means
+the lower part of the house is kept cool, I was surprised to find it so
+possible to walk out without inconvenience from the heat, so near the
+equator; but the constant sea-breeze, which sets in here every day at
+ten o'clock, preserves a temperature, under which it is at all times
+possible to take exercise. The hot time of day is from eight, when the
+land breeze fails, to ten. As we were to pass the stone bridge on our
+way back to the boat, which was ordered to meet us at the point of
+Recife, because the receding tide would have left it dry in the creek
+where we landed; we left it on one hand, and walked through Sant Antonio
+towards Boa Vista. When we came to the wooden bridge, 350 paces long,
+connecting it with Sant Antonio, we found that it had been cut through
+the middle, and is only now passable by means of two planks easily
+withdrawn, in case the besiegers should get possession of Boa Vista.
+Nothing can be prettier of its kind than the fresh green landscape, with
+its broad river winding through it, which is seen on each hand from the
+bridge, and the white buildings of the treasury and mint, the convents,
+and private houses, most of which have gardens. The verdure is
+delightful to an English eye; and I doubt not that the flat meadows, and
+slowly-flowing water, were particularly attractive to the Dutch founders
+of Recife. We walked back by the stone bridge, 280 paces long, as we
+intended; in vain did we look for shops; not one was open, the
+shopkeepers being all on military duty. They form the militia, and, as
+many of them are from Europe, and as they all expect to be plundered
+should the country Brazilians take the town by force, they are most
+zealous in their attendance as soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>At each end of every street we found a light gun, and at the heads of
+the bridges two, with lighted matches by them, and at each post we were
+challenged by the guard. At the end of the stone bridge, at the ponte
+dos tres pontes<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>, next to Recife, the guards are more numerous and
+strict. In this quarter, the chief riches of the place are lodged, and
+that is the point most easily defended. It is very nearly surrounded
+with water, the houses are high, strongly built, and close together, the
+streets being very narrow, and the strong gateways at each end of the
+bridge might secure time to demolish it entirely, and thus render that
+part of the town secure, except by the sand bank communicating with
+Olinda, and that is guarded by two considerable forts.</p>
+
+<p>We had hardly gone fifty paces into Recife, when we were absolutely
+sickened by the first sight of a slave-market. It was the first time
+either the boys or I had been in a slave-country; and, however strong
+and poignant the feelings may be at home, when imagination pictures
+slavery, they are nothing compared to the staggering sight of a
+slave-market. It was thinly stocked, owing to the circumstances of the
+town; which cause most of the owners of new slaves to keep them closely
+shut up in the dep&ocirc;ts. Yet about fifty young creatures, boys and girls,
+with all the appearance of disease and famine consequent upon scanty
+food and long confinement in unwholesome places, were sitting and lying
+about among the filthiest animals in the streets. The sight sent us home
+to the ship with the heart-ache: and resolution, "not loud but deep,"
+that nothing in our power should be considered too little, or too great,
+that can tend to abolish or to alleviate slavery.</p>
+
+<p>27<i>th.</i>&mdash;I went on shore to-day to spend a few days with Miss S., the
+only English lady in the town. She is now living in her brother's
+town-house, where the office and warehouses are, because the
+country-house is within reach of the patriots. I do long to walk or ride
+out to the tempting green hills beyond the town; but as that cannot be,
+I must content myself with what is within the lines. To-day, as we were
+coming in from Boa Vista, we met a family of Certanejos, who had brought
+provisions into the town some days ago, returning home to the Certam, or
+wild country of the interior. These Certanejos are a hardy, active set
+of men, mostly agriculturists. They bring corn and pulse, bacon and
+sweetmeats, to the sea-coast, hides and tallow also at times. But the
+sugar, cotton, and coffee, which form the staple exports of Pernambuco,
+require the warmer, richer lands, nearer the coast. Cotton is, however,
+brought from the Certam, but it is a precarious crop, depending entirely
+on the quantity of rain in the season; and it sometimes does not rain in
+the Certam for two years. The party we met formed a very picturesque
+groupe, the men clad in leather from head to foot, of which their light
+jerkin and close pantaloons are fitted as closely as the clothing on the
+Egina marbles, and have something of the same effect: the small round
+hat is in the form of Mercury's petasus; and the shoes and gaiters of
+the greater number are excellently adapted to defend the legs and feet
+in riding through the thickets. The colour of all this is a fine tan
+brown. I was vexed that the woman of the party wore a dress evidently of
+French fashion: it spoiled the unity of the groupe. She was mounted
+behind the principal man, on one of the small active horses of the
+country; several sumpter horses followed, laden with household goods and
+other things in exchange for their provisions: cloths, both woollen and
+cotton, coarse crockery, and other manufactured articles, especially
+knives, are what they chiefly take in barter; though I saw some
+furniture, with pretensions to elegance, among the stuff of the family I
+met. After the horses came a groupe of men, some walking and keeping
+pace with the amble of the beasts; others riding and carrying the
+children; the procession being closed by a very stout good-looking man,
+smoking as he went along, and distinguished by a pair of green baize
+trowsers.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we rode out; whether it was because we had been so many
+weeks on board ship, and without horse-exercise, or because of the
+peculiar sweetness and freshness of evening after the sultry tropical
+day we had just passed, I know not, but I never enjoyed an hour in the
+open air so much. We rode out of the town by some pretty country-houses,
+called <i>sitios</i>, to one of the out-posts at Mondego, which was formerly
+the governor's residence. The tamarind, the silk-cotton tree<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>, and
+the palm, shaded us, and a thousand elegant shrubs adorned the garden
+walls. It is impossible to describe the fresh delicious feel of such an
+evening, giving repose and health after the fiery day. We were very
+sorry when obliged to return home; but the sun was gone, there was no
+moon, and we were afraid that the guards at the various posts of defence
+might stop us. As we came back, we were challenged at every station; but
+the words, <i>amigos ingresos</i> were our passport, and we got to Recife
+just as the evening hymn was singing, harshly and unmusically enough, by
+the negroes and mulattoes in the streets; but yet every thing that
+unites men in one common sentiment is interesting. The church doors were
+open, the altars illuminated, and the very slave felt that he was
+addressing the same Deity, by the same privilege with his master. It is
+an evening I can never forget.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="gate" id="gate"></a><a href="images/005.png"><img src="images/005tb.png" alt="Gate and Slave Market at Pernabucoo." />
+<br />Gate and Slave Market at Pernabucoo.</a></p>
+
+<p>28<i>th.</i>&mdash;This morning before breakfast, looking from the balcony of Mr.
+S.'s house, I saw a white woman, or rather fiend, beating a young
+negress, and twisting her arms cruelly while the poor creature screamed
+in agony, till our gentlemen interfered. Good God! that such a traffic,
+such a practice as that of slavery, should exist. Near the house there
+are two or three dep&ocirc;ts of slaves, all young; in one, I saw an infant of
+about two years old, for sale. Provisions are now so scarce that no bit
+of animal food ever seasons the paste of mandioc flour, which is the
+sustenance of slaves: and even of this, these poor children, by their
+projecting bones and hollow cheeks, show that they seldom get a
+sufficiency. Now, money also is so scarce, that a purchaser is not
+easily found, and one pang is added to slavery: the unavailing wish of
+finding a master! Scores of these poor creatures are seen at different
+corners of the streets, in all the listlessness of despair&mdash;and if an
+infant attempts to crawl from among them, in search of infantile
+amusement, a look of pity is all the sympathy he excites. Are the
+patriots wrong? They have put arms into the hands of the <i>new</i> negroes,
+while the recollection of their own country, and of the slave-ship, and
+of the slave-market, is fresh in their memory.</p>
+
+<p>I walked to-day to the market-place, where there is but little;&mdash;beef
+scarce and dear, no mutton, a little poultry, and a few pigs,
+disgusting, because they feed in the streets where every thing is
+thrown, and where they and the dogs are the only scavengers. The
+blockade is so strict, that even the vegetables from the gentlemen's
+private gardens, two miles from the out-posts, are detained. No milk is
+to be had, bread of American flour is at least twice as dear as in
+England, and the cakes of mandioc baked with cocoa nut juice, too dear
+for the common people to afford a sufficiency even of them. Fire-wood
+is extravagantly high, charcoal scarce. The negroes keep the markets: a
+few on their own account, more on that of their masters. The dress of
+the free negroes is like that of the creole Portuguese; a linen jacket
+and trowsers, or on days of ceremony one of cloth, and a straw hat,
+furnish forth either a black or a white gentleman. The women, in-doors,
+wear a kind of frock which leaves the bosom much exposed. When they walk
+out they wear either a cloak or mantle; this cloak is often of the
+gayest colours; shoes also, which are the mark of freedom, are to be
+seen of every hue, but black. Gold chains for the neck and arms, and
+gold ear-rings, with a flower in the hair, complete a Pernambucan
+woman's dress. The new negroes, men and women, have nothing but a cloth
+round their loins. When they are bought, it is usual to give the women a
+shift and petticoat, and the men at least trowsers, but this is very
+often omitted.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday the motley head-dresses of the Portuguese inhabitants were
+seen to great advantage, in a sally through the streets, made by a kind
+of supplementary militia to enforce the closing of all shop-doors, and
+the shutting up of all slaves, on an alarm that the enemy was attacking
+the town to the southward. The officer leading the party was indeed
+dressed <i>en militaire</i>, with a drawn sword in one hand, and a pistol in
+the other. Then followed a company that Falstaff would hardly have
+enlisted, armed in a suitable manner, with such caps and hats as became
+the variety of trades to which the wearers belonged, the rear being
+brought up by a most singular figure, with a small drum-shaped black cap
+on the very top of a stiff pale head, a long oil-skin cloak, and in his
+left hand a huge Toledo ready drawn, which he carried upright. The
+militia are better dressed, and are now employed in regular turn of duty
+with the royal troops, who are going over to the patriots daily.</p>
+
+<p>Calling at the palace this forenoon, we learned that a hundred Indians
+are expected in the town, by way of assistance to the garrison. They
+wear their aboriginal dress, and are armed with slings, bows, and
+arrows. We are told their ideas of government consist in believing that
+implicit obedience is due both to king and priests. Brandy is the bribe
+for which they will do any thing; a dram of that liquor and a handful of
+mandioc flour being all the food they require when they come down to the
+port.</p>
+
+<p>This evening, as there are no horses to be hired here, we borrowed some
+from our English and French friends, and rode to Olinda by the long
+sandy isthmus, which connects it with Recife. This is the isthmus
+fortified with a palisade, by Sir John Lancaster, during his stay at
+Recife, which he plundered.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> The beach is defended by two castles,
+sufficiently strong when their situation is considered; on one side a
+furious surf breaking at their base, on the other a deep estuary and
+flat ground beyond, so that they cannot be commanded. The sand is
+partially covered by shrubs; one is very splendid with thick leaves and
+purple bell-shaped flowers; many are like those of the eastern world;
+many are quite new to me. I was surprised at the extreme beauty of
+Olinda, or rather of its remains, for it is now in a melancholy state of
+ruin. All the richer inhabitants have long settled in the lower town.
+The revenues of the bishopric being now claimed by the crown, and the
+monasteries suppressed for the most part, even the factitious splendour
+caused by the ecclesiastical courts and inhabitants is no more. The very
+college where the youths received some sort of education, however
+imperfect, is nearly ruined<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>, and there is scarcely a house of any
+size standing.</p>
+
+<p>Olinda is placed on a few small hills, whose sides are in some
+directions broken down, so as to present the most abrupt and picturesque
+rock-scenery. These are embosomed in dark woods that seem coeval with
+the land itself: tufts of slender palms, here and there the broad head
+of an ancient mango, or the gigantic arms of the wide spreading
+silk-cotton tree, rise from out the rest in the near ground, and break
+the line of forest: amidst these, the convents, the cathedral, the
+bishop's palace, and the churches of noble, though not elegant
+architecture, are placed in stations which a Claude or a Poussin might
+have chosen for them; some stand on the steep sides of rocks, some on
+lawns that slope gently to the sea-shore: their colour is grey or pale
+yellow, with reddish tiles, except here and there where a dome is
+adorned with porcelain tiles of white and blue. Just as we reached the
+highest point of the town, looking across the woody bason round which
+the hills are grouped, the smoke from one of the out-posts caught our
+sight. The soldiers were standing or lying around, and their arms piled
+by them: they were just shadowed by tall trees behind, between whose
+trunks the scattered rays of the setting sun shed such a partial light
+as Salvator Rosa himself would not have disdained. These same soldiers,
+however, circumscribed our ride: we had intended to return by the inland
+road, but were not allowed to pass into it, as part, at least, lies
+without the posts, therefore we were obliged to return by the way we
+came.</p>
+
+<p>At the spot where the present guard is placed, and where indeed a strong
+guard is peculiarly necessary, the river Bibiriba falls into the
+&aelig;stuary, which was formerly the port of Olinda. A dam is built across
+with flood-gates which are occasionally opened; and on the dam there is
+a very pretty open arcade, where the neighbouring inhabitants were
+accustomed in peaceable times to go in the evening, and eat, drink, and
+dance. It is from this dam that all the good water used in Recife is
+daily conveyed in water-canoes, which come under the dam called the
+Varadouro, and are filled from twenty-three pipes, led so as to fill the
+canoes at once, without farther trouble. We saw seven-and-twenty of
+these little boats laden, paddle down the creek with the tide towards
+the town. A single oar used rather as rudder than paddle guides the tank
+to the middle of the stream, where it floats to its destination.</p>
+
+<p>The sun was low, long before we reached even the first of the two
+castles on our way back to the fort. The dogs had already begun their
+work of abomination. I saw one drag the arm of a negro from beneath the
+few inches of sand, which his master had caused to be thrown over his
+remains. It is on this beach that the measure of the insults dealt to
+the poor negroes is filled. When the negro dies, his fellow-slaves lay
+him on a plank, carry him to the beach, where beneath high-water mark
+they hoe a little sand over him; but to the new negro even this mark of
+humanity is denied. He is tied to a pole, carried out in the evening and
+dropped upon the beach, where it is just possible the surf may bear him
+away. These things sent us home sad and spiritless, notwithstanding the
+agreeable scenes we had been riding among.</p>
+
+<p>29th. The feast of St. Michael's has drawn out the Portuguese
+gentlewomen, of whom we had not yet seen one walking in the streets. The
+favourite dress seems to be black, with white shoes and white or
+coloured ribbons and flowers in the hair, with a mantle of lace or
+gauze, either black or white. We have seen a few priests too for the
+first time. I think the edict desiring them to keep within their convent
+walls, is in consequence of their being among the fomentors of the
+spirit of independence. The appropriation of so much of the church
+revenue by the court of Lisbon is of course unpopular among the clergy
+of the country; and it is not difficult for them to represent, what
+indeed is truth, to the people, that the drawing of so much treasure
+from the country to support Lisbon, which can neither govern nor protect
+them now, is a rational ground of complaint. It is said, that the morals
+of the clergy here are most depraved. This is probably true. Men cut off
+by vows like those of the Roman clergy, from the active charities of
+social life, have only the resources of science and literature against
+their passions and vices. But here the very names of literature and
+science are almost unknown. The college and library of Olinda are in
+decay. There is not one bookseller in Pernambuco, and the population of
+its different parishes amounts to 70,000 souls! A tolerably well written
+newspaper, of which I have not been able to procure the first number,
+was set up in March, under the title of "Aurora Pernambucana," with the
+following motto from Camoens:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Depois da procellosa tempestade,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nocturna sombra e sibilante vento,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tras a manha serena e claridade,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Esperan&ccedil;a de porto e salvamiente:<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>alluding to the arrival of the news of the revolution in Portugal, on
+the 26th of that month, and the swearing of the governor, magistrates,
+&amp;c. to adhere to the constitution as established by the Cortes. I am
+sorry to say that this only paper has been discontinued for the two last
+months, the editor having, as it seems, become a secretary of
+government, and having no longer time to superintend the press.<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a></p>
+
+<p>30<i>th.</i>&mdash;Last night the patriot troops attacked the line of defence at
+Olinda for four hours, but I do not believe there was any loss on either
+side. This morning a Portuguese frigate, the Don Pedro, with troops from
+Bahia, arrived. The reinforcement of 350 men, partly European, partly
+Bahian, has put the inhabitants, from the governor downwards, into the
+highest spirits; so that for once we see Pernambuco active, and
+cheerful, and alive. Men and women are out in their gayest habits, and
+the military are running and riding in all directions, not a little
+pleased to have some to relieve them in their constant watch and ward.</p>
+
+<p>Among other things which I learned by looking on, while the elders of
+families were engaged in the streets with the new-comers, was that the
+young Pernambucans are as dexterous in the use of signs as the Turkish
+lovers themselves, and that often a courtship is carried on in this way,
+and a marriage settled, without the parties having ever heard each
+other's voices. However, the general mode is for parents to settle their
+children's nuptials, without consulting any thing but pecuniary
+convenience.</p>
+
+<p>This day several of the officers and midshipmen of the Doris accompanied
+us to dine at the governor's, at half-past four o'clock. Our welcome
+was most cordial. His excellency took one end of the table, and an
+aide-de-camp the other: I was seated between M. and Madame do Rego. He
+seemed happy to talk of his old English friends of the Peninsula, with
+many of whom I am acquainted; and she had a thousand enquiries to make
+about England, whither she is very anxious to go. They apologised for
+having so little plate, but their handsome services were packed up in an
+English store-house, together with her excellency's jewels and other
+precious things. The cookery was a mixture of Portuguese and French.
+After the soup, a dish was handed round of boiled lean beef, slices of
+fat salt pork, and sausages, and with this dish, rice boiled with oil
+and sweet herbs. Roast beef was presented, in compliment to the English,
+very little roasted. Salads, and fish of various kinds, were dressed in
+a peculiar manner; poultry and other things in the French fashion.</p>
+
+<p>The dessert was served on another table. Besides our European dessert of
+fruit, cakes, and wine, all the puddings, pies, and tarts, formed part
+of it. It was decorated with flowers, and there was a profusion of
+sugar-plums of every kind. The company rose from the dining-table, and
+adjourned to the other, which Madame do Rego told me should have been
+spread in a separate apartment; but they have so recently taken
+possession of their house, that they have not one yet fitted up for the
+purpose. The governor and his guests proposed many toasts
+alternately&mdash;The King of England, the King of Portugal, the navy of
+England, the King of France<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a>, Luis do Rego, and the captaincy of
+Pernambuco, &amp;c.&mdash;When we all rose at once from table; some of the
+company went on board ship, but most adjourned to the drawing-room, a
+comfortable apartment, furnished with blue satin damask, where we were
+joined by the French naval officers of His Most Christian Majesty's ship
+Sappho, and several ladies and gentlemen of the city. We had some
+excellent music. Madame do Rego has an admirable voice, and there were
+several good singers and players on the piano. It was a more pleasant,
+polished evening than I had expected to pass in Pernambuco, especially
+now in a state of siege.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, 3d October.</i>&mdash;I went on board on Monday, and, provokingly
+enough, the patriots chose that very night to make an attack upon the
+out-post of the Affogadas, so I did not see the governor, at the head of
+his troops, march out to meet them; nor did I hear the national hymn
+sung by the regiments as they filed along on their return from a
+successful sally.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> Yesterday, nothing occurred worth noting; we had
+the consul and British merchants on board to dinner, and the day passed
+as such days usually do.</p>
+
+<p>Having learned that the patriots have refused to allow the linen
+belonging to the ship, which had been sent to the country to be washed,
+to return to the town, it was determined that we should send to their
+head-quarters, and remonstrate against this very inconvenient mode of
+annoying the port. I obtained leave to accompany the messengers, and
+accordingly we all went on shore immediately after breakfast. Our first
+business was to procure passports, and to learn the countersigns; after
+which Capt. Graham, with Col. Cottar, the governor's principal
+aide-de-camp, rode with us to the out-posts, where we left them, with an
+intention of returning to dine at Mr. Stewart's, to meet Luis do Rego's
+family. Our party consisted of M. Caumont, to act as interpreter, Mr.
+Dance, bearing the letter, my cousin Mr. Glennie as my cavalier, and
+myself. It was the first time we had had an opportunity of passing the
+lines, and we felt like school-boys who had stolen beyond bounds, and
+well we might; the scenery was fresh and lovely, and the day as fine as
+possible.</p>
+
+<p>Pernambuco is not a walled town, but broad rapid rivers and &aelig;stuaries
+surround it, and it is only approachable by the roads and causeways; the
+banks thrown up across these, for present defence, are such as might
+stop the Brazilian cavalry for a few minutes, or afford cover for
+musketry; but their best defence is the swamp at the mouth of the
+Capabaribe, which is flooded at high water, and which extends nearly to
+the Bibiribi. At the edge of the swamp there is a wooden palisade, where
+we left the last post of the royalists, and took leave of our friends,
+who had accompanied us so far. After riding across the marsh, which by
+the by is very fit for rice ground, and is surrounded by cocoa-nut and
+tamarind trees, we came to the main stream of the Capabaribe, a deep,
+broad, and very rapid river; its sides are steep, and the water
+beautifully clear<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a>: its banks are studded with country-houses, and
+adorned with groves and gardens, for the present abandoned by their
+owners, who have taken refuge in Recife.</p>
+
+<p>The hedges on each side of the road are woven of palm-leaves, and where
+not quite new, are covered with all splendid creeping plants; the common
+and winged passion-flower, white, blue, and yellow clematis, jasmine,
+china-rose, and many others, both gay and sweet. The ditches, too, were
+full of colour, but we rode too fast to stay to collect plants; and I
+could only promise myself, at some future time, to gather one that
+appeared like a bog bean, but its colour bright purple.</p>
+
+<p>About two miles from Do Rego's last out-post, we came to the first post
+of the patriots, at a country-house on a rising ground, where arms piled
+at the door, and a sort of ragged guard, consisting of a merry-looking
+negro with a fowling-piece, a Brazilian with a blunderbuss, and two or
+three of doubtful colour with sticks, swords pistols, &amp;c., told us an
+officer was to be found. After a few minutes parley, we found he was not
+authorised to receive our letter, so we rode on under the direction of
+the old Brazilian with his blunderbuss, who, being on foot, threatened
+to shoot us if we attempted to ride faster than he walked. The slow pace
+at which we advanced gave us leisure to remark the beauties of a
+Brazilian spring. Gay plants, with birds still gayer hovering over them,
+sweet smelling flowers, and ripe oranges and citrons, formed a beautiful
+fore-ground to the very fine forest-trees that cover the plains, and
+clothe the sides of the low hills in the neighbourhood of Pernambuco.
+Here and there a little space is cleared for the growth of mandioc,
+which at this season is perfectly green: the wooden huts of the
+cultivators are generally on the road-side, and, for the most part, each
+has its little grove of mango and orange-trees. At one of these little
+homesteads, we found a pretty large guard-house, established where four
+roads meet, and there our foot guide left us, and a gentlemanlike young
+officer, of the Brazilian Ca&ccedil;adores, rode with us, and entertained us by
+calling Luis do Rego a tyrant, and attributing the siege of Pernambuco
+entirely to the governor's obstinacy, in not joining the people of the
+province in throwing off the dominion of his master. Round the
+guard-house a number of negro girls, with broad flat baskets on their
+heads, were selling fruit and cold water: they had decked their woolly
+hair, and the edges of their baskets, with garlands of the scarlet
+althaea; their light blue or white cloaks were thrown gracefully across
+their dusky shoulders, and white jackets, so that it was such a picture
+as the early Spaniards might have drawn of their Eldorado.</p>
+
+<p>After riding a few miles, we came suddenly to the foot of an abrupt
+hill, on whose sides there were scattered groups of the most magnificent
+trees I ever beheld. There we were met by a small military party, which,
+after a parley with our guide, rather ordered, than invited us to ride
+up. In a few seconds, we came to a steep yellow sandstone bank, shaded
+on one side by tall trees, and open on the other to a lake surrounded
+by woody hills, on the most distant of which, the white buildings of
+Olinda sparkled like snow. On the top of the bank, and in the act of
+descending, was a group of forty horsemen, one of the foremost of whom
+bore a white banner; several were dressed in splendid military habits,
+others in the plain costume of the landed proprietors. These were
+deputies from Paraiba on their way to propose terms to Luis do Rego;
+they had just left the head-quarters of the besieging army, where the
+provisional government of Goyana is stationed, and were accompanied by a
+guard of honour: after exchanging civilities, part of the guard turned
+back with us, and the deputies went on their way. Having reached the top
+of the hill, we found about a hundred men, tolerably well armed, but
+strangely dressed, awaiting us; and there we were detained till our
+guide rode forward to ask leave to bring us to head-quarters. I was
+sorry I had no means of sketching any part of the beautiful landscape,
+which, besides the striking features I have mentioned before, now
+displayed a broad river, over which there is a white stone bridge of
+several arches; at one end, a large house, more like a palace, with its
+arches and corridors, and the encampment of the army and the horse
+picquets, and, in short, a bustle and animation that seldom happen to
+adorn so fine a scene. Our guide soon returned with eighteen or twenty
+mounted soldiers, whose appearance was rather wild than military: the
+guard presented arms as we parted from them, and we soon cantered down
+the hill towards the main body of the troops. Not above two hundred had
+the arms or accoutrements of soldiers; but there were dresses and
+weapons of every kind, leather, cloth, and linen; short jackets and long
+Scotch plaids, and every tint of colour in their faces, from the sallow
+European to the ebony African. Military honours were paid us by these
+ragged regiments, and we were conducted to the palace square, where Mr.
+Dance and Mr. Caumont dismounted, and I determined to await the issue of
+their conference, with my cousin in the court.</p>
+
+<p>This, however, was not permitted. In a few minutes, a smart little man,
+speaking tolerable French, came and told me the <i>government</i> desired my
+company. I suspected a mistake of the word government for governor, and
+endeavoured to decline the honour; but no denial could be taken, and the
+little man, who told me he was secretary to government, accordingly
+assisted me to dismount, and showed me the way to the palace. The hall
+was filled with men and horses, like a barrack stable, excepting a
+corner which served as an hospital for those wounded in the late
+skirmishes, the groans of the latter mingling uncouthly with the
+soldiers' cheerful noisy voices. The stairs were so crowded, that we got
+up with difficulty, and then I found that I was indeed to be confronted
+with the whole strength of the provisional government. At the end of a
+long dirty room, that had once been handsome, as the form of the windows
+and carving of the panels on which there were traces of colour and
+gilding, indicated, there was an old black hair sofa, on the centre of
+which I was placed, with Mr. Dance on one side, and Mr. Glennie on the
+other; by Mr. Dance sat the little secretary, and next to him our
+interpreter, in old-fashioned high-backed chairs; the rest of the
+furniture of the room consisted of nine seats of different sizes and
+forms, placed in a semicircle fronting the sofa, and on each of these
+sat one of the members of the junta of the provisional government, who
+act the part of senators or generals, as the occasion may require. To
+each of these I was introduced; the names of Albuquerque, Cavalcante,
+and Broderod, struck me, but I heard imperfectly, and forget most of
+them: some wore handsome military coats, others the humbler dress of
+farmers. They politely told me they would not read the letter while I
+was waiting below, but as soon as we were seated, the secretary read it
+aloud. Instead of taking any notice of its contents, the secretary began
+a long discourse, setting forth the injustice of the Portuguese governor
+and government towards Brazil in general, and the Pernambucans in
+particular; that in order to resist that injustice, they had formed the
+present respectable government, pointing to the junta, without intending
+the least detriment to the rights of the king. That surely they could
+not be called rebels, as they marched under the royal flag of Portugal;
+but Luis do Rego might be reasonably stigmatised as such, for he had
+fired on that banner. He then went off into a long harangue upon the
+general principles of government; but as I understood little of the
+language, much of it was lost upon me, as well as on my companions; but
+I have no doubt that it served to impress the respectable junta with a
+higher idea of their secretary's understanding and eloquence:
+altogether, the speech reminded me of some of the best written of the
+Carbonari addresses of Italy; and there was something in the air,
+manner, and scene, not unlike what one imagines of the Barraca meetings
+of those ill-guided, misused people.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> We then talked a great deal in
+French to the secretary, who repeated every word to the respectable
+junta, and at length got him to attend to a proposal for releasing our
+linen, and another for supplying the ship with fresh provisions. We had
+been paying forty dollars per bullock in the town; they agreed that
+their price should not exceed ten, if we sent boats to the Rio Doce, or
+Paratije<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> for them. This is the mouth of a small stream on the
+northside of Olinda. And I must not omit to mention, that they offered
+to allow us to take off fresh provisions for our English or French
+friends in the town.</p>
+
+<p>The junta was extremely anxious to learn if there was a probability of
+England's acknowledging the independence of Brazil, or if she took part
+at all in the struggle; and many were the questions, and very variously
+were they shaped, which the secretary addressed to us on that head. They
+are of course violent in their language concerning Luis do Rego, in
+proportion as he has done his military duty, in keeping them at bay
+with his handful of men: and like all oppositions they can afford to
+reason upon general principles, because they have not to feel the
+hindrances of action, and the jarring of private interests in the
+disposal and fulfilment of office.</p>
+
+<p>I was sitting opposite to one of the windows of the council-room, and
+had been remarking for some time, that the sun was getting very low,
+and, therefore, rose to go, having received a note from the secretary,
+ordering the officers at their advanced posts to offer no hindrance to
+the passing of any thing belonging to His British Majesty's frigate,
+Doris. But we were not suffered to depart without a hearty invitation to
+sup and spend the night: and a stirrup-cup (a huge glass) was brought,
+and a bottle of wine, with about half as much water, poured into it; it
+was then handed to me to begin, and all fourteen received it in turn. By
+this time the guard was drawn out, the band played the national hymn, to
+which we all listened bare-headed, and so we mounted among those
+wild-looking men, in that strange, yet lovely landscape, just as the
+evening mist began to veil the lower land, and the bright red evening
+sun to gild the topmost branches of the forest.</p>
+
+<p>Our journey home was much more rapid than our journey out. The evening
+was cool, and the horses eager to return; but we did not reach Mr. S.'s
+till two hours after sunset, when we found that, after the party had
+waited till six o'clock, Captain Graham had insisted on their dining.
+The governor was uneasy, and offered to send a party of Ca&ccedil;adores in
+search, as he kindly said, of me,&mdash;but this, of course, was refused; the
+captain assuring his excellency, that if the patriots detained his
+lieutenant, he would take him back with his own men, and that as to me,
+while I was with my two companions, he had not the least fear concerning
+me. We were accompanied by the same officer, who had been our companion
+on the latter part of the ride to head-quarters, back almost to the town
+lines; and when we told this to the governor, he was sorry we did not
+know his name, that in case he should ever have it in his power to show
+him kindness, he might do so. A pleasant chat on the adventures of our
+ride, a hearty supper, and a little concert closed the day, which, upon
+the whole, was to me a most agreeable one.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, 4th.</i>&mdash;Received Madame do Rego, one of her daughters, Miss
+S., and several gentlemen, on board. Most of the party were sea-sick,
+from the rolling of the ship, caused by the heavy swell at the
+anchorage. They were, however, highly charmed with their visit,
+particularly with the fireworks with which we saluted the ladies, who
+had never been on board a British frigate before, on their departure.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 5th.</i>&mdash;According to the agreement made with the patriot
+officers, on Wednesday, one launch and the second cutter went to Rio
+Doce to receive bullocks and other provisions. The officers and men were
+most kindly received, and returned with many presents of fresh stock and
+vegetables, which the patriots forced upon them. A military band
+attended them on landing, and conducted them to the place of meeting
+with the chiefs.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Biddle and Glennie, being on shore surveying, near Cabo de Sant
+Augustin<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>, were detained as prisoners for a few hours, by a patriot
+detachment; but, as it appeared to be only for the purpose of obtaining
+money, and done by some subaltern, no notice was taken of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 6th.</i>&mdash;The frigate got under weigh to take a cruize, and if
+possible find a quieter anchorage. Mr. Dance with a party went for more
+provisions, to Rio Doce. The surf at the landing place was so high, that
+they were obliged to get into canoes, and leave the boats grappled at
+some distance from the beach. A guard of honour and military band
+attended them, as on the former day, and they were, moreover, pressed to
+dine with the commander of the post, which they gladly did. The
+dining-room was a long hut, built of wood and plaited palm leaves. In
+the centre, was a long table spread with a clean and very handsome
+cloth. The few chairs the place afforded were appropriated to the
+strangers, and the rest of the company stood during the meal. To the
+strangers, also, were given the spoons and forks, but the want of them
+did not appear to incommode the Brazilians. To each person a small
+basin of good beef broth, <i>bien dor&eacute;e</i>, was served, and for the rest
+every man put his hand in the dish. Two principal messes occupied the
+centre of the table, one, a platter, containing a quantity of mandioc
+flour, raw; and the other a pile of fish, dressed with oil, garlic, and
+pimento. Each person began by stirring a quantity of the flour into his
+broth, till it acquired the consistence of brose, and then helping
+himself to the fish, which was cut up in convenient pieces, dipped it
+into the brose, and eat it with his fingers. Around the two principal
+dishes, were others of a most savoury nature,&mdash;eels fried with sweet
+herbs, shellfish stewed with wine and pimento, and others of the same
+kind. Into these also each man put his hand indiscriminately, and
+dipping his morsel into his basin, set our officers the example of
+eating that substitute for wheaten bread, and of swallowing, without
+regard to neatness or order, all manner of messes, mixed together, and
+touched by all hands. After dinner, a slave handed round a silver basin,
+with water and towels, after which a number of toasts were given, and
+the entertainment concluded with vivas, when the guard and band attended
+the officers to the boats, where the bullocks were ready to embark, and
+slaves to carry the English through the surf to the canoes, which
+conveyed them to the boats. On their return, I saw for the first time,
+the pitanga, a berry of which an excellent preserve is made; it grows
+upon a beautiful shrub, scarcely to be distinguished, either in flower
+or leaf, from the broad-leaved myrtle; the berry is as large as a
+filbert, and divided and coloured like the large red love-apple. Mr.
+Dance brought me, also, a beautiful green paroquet, the tamest,
+loveliest thing, with his emerald coat, and sparkling eye, I ever
+saw.<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, 7th.</i>&mdash;We continued to cruize opposite to Olinda and Recife,
+and alarmed some of our friends on shore, by sailing round the English
+bank, a thing hitherto believed impossible, for so large a ship.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, 8th.</i>&mdash;We find to-day, on anchoring, that terms have been
+entered into with the patriots, by which their deputies are to be in the
+council, and take an equal share in the administration, and on the other
+hand, they are to withdraw the investing troops, and leave Luis do Rego
+at the head of the military department, until the arrival of the next
+despatches from Lisbon. These pacific measures were brought about by the
+Paraiban deputies whom we met on Wednesday.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, 9th.</i>&mdash;Mr. Dance, Mr. Glennie, and I, were deputed to take
+charge of a large party of midshipmen, who had not been able before to
+take a run on shore, to spend the day on Cocoa-nut Island, which lies a
+good way up the harbour, and within the reef of Pernambuco. As we sailed
+along the rock, we observed that it is covered with echini, polypii,
+barnacles, limpets, and crusted with white bivalves less than oysters or
+cockles, yet containing a fish not unlike the latter in appearance, and
+the former in flavour. We had not exactly calculated the effect of the
+tide so far up the harbour as Cocoa-nut Island, consequently we got
+aground in the outer channel, at a considerable distance from the shore.
+The sailors pushed me over one flat bank in the gig, and then carried me
+to the beach; the midshipmen waded, and the officers and boats with the
+crews, went in search of a deeper passage, where they might approach
+with our provisions. Meantime the boys and I had full leisure to examine
+the island. It is perfectly flat and covered with white sand; the shore
+scattered with fragments of shells and coral. As its name imports, it is
+one grove of cocoa-nut trees, excepting where the present occupant has
+cleared space for a market-garden and fishponds. These last are very
+extensive; and as they secure a supply of fish at times when the rough
+seas of the outer roads prevent the canoes from going out, they have
+answered extremely well to the speculator. The garden produces European
+as well as Brazilian vegetables, in great perfection: Fruit-trees also
+thrive very well.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> In the cuts for the fishponds I observed below
+the sand, a rich black earth, full of decayed vegetables, which probably
+renders this apparently sandy land, so fertile. The ponds were half
+covered with the white water-lily, and some other aquatic plants of the
+country. The whole island abounds in gay shrubs and gaudy flowers<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a>,
+where the humming-bird, here called the <i>beja flor</i> or kiss-flower, with
+his sapphire wings and ruby crest, hovers continually, and the painted
+butterflies vie with him and his flowers in tints and beauty. The very
+reptiles are beautiful here. The snake and the lizard are singularly so,
+at least in colour. We found a very large rough caterpillar, each hair
+or prickle of which is divided into five or six branches; the rings of
+its body are scarlet, yellow, and brown; and the country people believe
+that it hurts the udders of cows, and prevents their giving milk, if it
+does not actually suck them. They are therefore very unpopular here,
+because the whole island that is not garden-ground is pasture, and
+supplies a great deal of the milk for the market of Recife.</p>
+
+<p>While we were endeavouring to forget our hunger by examining the island,
+and drinking cocoa-nut juice, and wondering at many an ordinary thing,
+though new to young untravelled eyes, and such were those of most of the
+party, our boats were taking a circuitous track, and at length at ten
+o'clock landed our provisions, when we made a hearty breakfast, sitting
+on a sail spread under the palm shade. The elder boys with their guns,
+then accompanied Mr. Dance and the captain of a merchant vessel, who
+volunteered to act as Cicerone, to shoot; and the younger ones staid
+with me to collect flowers, gather vegetables, and with the assistance
+of the boats' crews, to superintend the preparations for dinner. At four
+o'clock the sportsmen returned, bringing red-crested woodpeckers,
+finches of various hues, humming-birds, black and yellow pies, and
+others of gay plumage and delicate shape, quite new to us all. A merrier
+party certainly never met, but the best of the expedition was to come.
+The tide was now favourable; and we determined to do a spirited thing,
+and instead of going all the way down the harbour, which would have
+kept us out beyond the time allowed us, we ran through a passage in the
+reef called Mother Cary's passage, because few things but the birds
+think of swimming there. The merchant-boat went first, our gig next, and
+as I sat in the stern of the large boat that was to follow, it was
+beautiful, but something fearful, to see them dash through that boiling
+surf between the rocks and rise over the wave secure beyond it, nor was
+the sensation less mixed when we followed. There is at all times
+something triumphant in the sensation of sailing over the waters; but
+when they are roughened by storms, or rendered fearful by rocks or
+shoals, the triumph approaches to the sublime, and in it there is a
+secret dread, though not of ocean, and a raising of the soul to him who
+made the ocean, and gave man mind to master it. I am not ashamed to own,
+that as I looked round on my young charge, when Mr. Dance whispered "sit
+still and say nothing," and then stepping to the bow of the boat called
+aloud to the helmsman, "steady!" I had a moment, though but a moment, of
+exquisite anxiety. But we were through in an instant, and soon alongside
+of the frigate, where we were praised for doing what few had done
+before, and having shown the possibility of doing that safely, which at
+some future time it might be of importance to know could be done at all.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, 10th.</i>&mdash;We went on shore early for the first time since the
+armistice. The guns are removed from the streets and a few of the shops
+are re-opened; the negroes are no longer confined within doors, and the
+priests have reappeared; their broad hats and ample cloaks give them an
+importance among the crowd, which now is busy and active, and seemingly
+intent on redeeming the time lost to trade by the siege. I was struck by
+the great preponderance of the black population. By the last census, the
+population of Pernambuco, including Olinda was seventy thousand, of
+which not above one third are white: the rest are mulatto or negro. The
+mulattoes are, generally speaking, more active, more industrious, and
+more lively than either of the other classes. They have amassed great
+fortunes, in many instances, and are far from being backward in
+promoting the cause of independence in Brazil. Few even of the free
+negroes have become very rich. A free negro, when his shop or garden has
+repaid his care, by clothing him and his wife each in a handsome black
+dress, with necklace and armlets for the lady, and knee and shoe buckles
+of gold, to set off his own silk stockings, seldom toils much more, but
+is quite contented with daily food. Many, of all colours, when they can
+afford to purchase a negro, sit down exempt from further care. They make
+the negro work for them, or beg for them, and so as they may eat their
+bread in quiet, care little how it is obtained.</p>
+
+<p>The European Portuguese, are extremely anxious to avoid intermarriage
+with born Brazilians, and prefer giving their daughters and fortunes to
+the meanest clerk of European birth, rather than to the richest and most
+meritorious Brazilian. They have become aware of the prodigious
+inconvenience, if not evil, they have brought on themselves by the
+importation of Africans, and now no doubt, look forward with dread to
+the event of a revolution, which will free their slaves from their
+authority, and, by declaring them all men alike, will authorise them to
+resent the injuries they have so long and patiently borne.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, 11th.</i>&mdash;As every thing seems quietly settled between the
+royalist and patriot chiefs, we are preparing to take leave of
+Pernambuco, and it is not without regret, for we have been kindly
+treated by the Portuguese, and hospitably received by our own
+countrymen. We went on shore to provide necessaries and comforts for our
+farther voyage. Among the latter I bought some excellent sweetmeats<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a>,
+which are made in the interior, and brought to market in neat little
+wooden kegs, each containing six or eight pounds. It is astonishing to
+see the weight brought from two and three hundred miles' distance, by
+the small and slight but very swift horses of the country. The baggage
+horses are not shod any more than those for riding: the latter are
+almost universally trained to a kind of running pace, easy in itself,
+but not very agreeable at first, to those accustomed to English horses.
+To-day I saw and tasted the jerked beef, <i>charqui</i>, of Spanish South
+America. It appears, when hanging in bales at the shop-doors, like
+bundles of thick ragged leather. It is prepared by cutting the flesh in
+wide strips, clean off the bones, slightly salting, pressing, and drying
+in the air. In this state it might well have served for saddle-cloths to
+the Buccaneers, as tradition says they dressed their meat under their
+saddles. However that may be, the beef is good. Here the common mode of
+using it is to cut it in small squares, and boil it in the mandioc
+pottage, which is the principal food of the poorer inhabitants and the
+slaves.</p>
+
+<p>After I had ended my marketing, I went to call on a Portuguese family,
+and as it was the first private Portuguese house I had been in, I was
+curious to notice the difference between it and the English houses here.
+The building and general disposition of the apartments are the same, and
+the drawing-room only differed in being better furnished, and with every
+article English, even to a handsome piano of Broadwood's; but the
+dining-room was completely foreign; the floor was covered with painted
+cloth, and the walls hung round with English prints and Chinese
+pictures, without distinction of subject or size. At one end of the room
+was a long table, covered with a glass case, enclosing a large piece of
+religious wax-work; the whole <i>pr&aelig;sepia</i>, ministering angels, three
+kings, and all, with moss, artificial flowers, shells and beads,
+smothered in gauze and tiffany, bespangled with gold and silver, San
+Antonio and St. Christopher being in attendance on the right and left;
+the rest of the furniture consisted of ordinary chairs and tables, and a
+kind of beaufet or sideboard: from the ceiling, nine bird-cages were
+hanging, each with its little inhabitant; canaries, grey finches with a
+note almost as fine, and the beautiful widow-bird, were the favourites.
+In larger cages in a passage room, there were more parrots and paroquets
+than I should have thought agreeable in one house; but they are
+well-bred birds, and seldom scream all together. We were no sooner
+seated in the dining-room, than biscuit, cake, wine, and liqueurs, were
+handed round, the latter in diminutive tumblers; a glass of water was
+then offered to each, and we were pressed to taste it, as being the very
+best in Recife; it proceeds from a spring in the garden of the convent
+of Jerusalem, two miles from town, and the only conduit from that spring
+leads to the garden of a sister convent here. From the lady, I learned,
+that the porous jars for cooling water, that we find here, are all made
+in the neighbourhood of Bahia, there being no manufactory here, except a
+few coarse cottons for clothing for the slaves. The air and manners of
+the family we visited, though neither English nor French, were perfectly
+well bred, and the dress pretty much that of civilised Europe, only that
+the men wore cotton jackets instead of cloth coats, and were without
+neck-cloths; when they go out of doors, however, they dress like
+Englishmen.</p>
+
+<p>Returning from our visit, we met a monk, carried out to be buried by
+several of his brethren, with candle, book, and bell, and all the
+solemnities which human feeling has invented to solace its own fears and
+griefs, under the pretence of honouring the dead, and to which the
+Romish church has in such cases as these, added all her pageantry. I
+could not help contrasting it with the burials on the beach of Olinda,
+and smiling at the vanities that attach themselves even to corruption.
+"But man, vain man, plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven, as
+make the angels weep."</p>
+
+<p>But our horses were awaiting us, and we left our indignation and our
+pity for the follies of some, and the miseries of others, to enjoy, for
+the first time since the posts were free, the country air. When we went
+to Bibiriba, soldiers stopped us to question at every turn; piles of
+arms, and horses ready accoutred at the door of every considerable
+residence, showed that military posts had taken place of the pleasures
+of the country-houses, and accounted for the solitariness of the roads.
+Now the scene is changed&mdash;the paths are crowded with negroes, young and
+old, in their picturesque, though gaudy dresses, with baskets of fruit,
+fish, and other provisions, on their heads; little carts, of which we
+had not before seen one, begin to appear, and the fine oxen which draw
+them form no bad contrast to the half-starved bullocks of the town.
+'Twas a cool evening, and the sun was just low enough to gild the edges
+of the palms and other tall trees, which shot up with their deep black
+shadows into the thin pure light, making an effect, that even Titian's
+landscape pencil has not reached. Our ride extended to Mr. S.'s
+country-house, which is, I believe, on the same plan with all the others
+hereabouts, and which I can only compare to an Oriental bungalow; one
+story very commodiously laid out, a veranda surrounding it, and standing
+in the midst of a little paddock, part of which is garden ground, and
+part pasture, generally hedged with limes and roses, and shaded with
+fruit trees, is the general description of the country sitios about
+Pernambuco; the difference arising from the taste of the inhabitant, or
+the situation of the ground, being allowed for. The low rent of these
+pleasant little gardens is surprising; but it arises in great measure
+from the indolence and consequent poverty of the holders of original
+grants of land here: as long as their negroes and estates maintained
+them, they paid no attention to the particular parts that, being near
+the town, might have been at all times productive. Now, that sugar and
+cotton are no longer in such demand, nearly half the fazendas or
+factories are ruined, and such is become the indolent temper of the
+people, that rather than seek to redeem their estates, they will take
+the smallest annuity for a portion.</p>
+
+<p>On our way to the sitio, we stopped at a kind of public-house or venta;
+it is like an English huckster's, and contains a little of every thing,
+cloth and candles, fruit and lard, wine and pimento, which are retailed
+at no very extravagant profit to the poor; the draught wine is really
+good, being port of excellent quality, without the quantity of brandy
+which the English market requires. By the time we repassed it on our way
+home, many a negro was spending his day's savings, and becoming as happy
+as wine could make him; and many a traveller was regaling himself with
+bread, garlic, and salt, and preparing to spread his mat, and lie down
+in the open air for the night. Night within the tropics is always a
+gayer and more peopled time than with us; the heat of the day detains
+many within doors all day, and evening and night become the favourite
+hours for walking. As we returned through Boa Vista we passed many
+groups enjoying like ourselves the pleasant air, and gazing idly on the
+reflections of the white houses and waving trees in the water; while the
+fire flies flitting from bush to bush, seemed like fragments of stars
+come down to adorn the moonlight.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 12th.</i>&mdash;- The Prince Royal of Portugal's birth-day. There is a
+levee at the palace. The company bow first to the governor, then to the
+Prince's picture, which is placed in the middle of the audience-room, to
+receive its due honours; and then the <i>beja mano</i>, or kiss hands, takes
+place. The forts and ships saluted; we of course did the same; and the
+people all dressed and went to mass, as on a holiday. One thing
+contributed, however, in no small degree to the enjoyment of the day.
+The troops, which lately arrived from Bahia, re-embarked in order to
+return. Their whole behaviour had been disorderly, and their drunkenness
+and riot, during the ten days they were here, had quite disgusted the
+people; while the disposition they manifested to join the patriots, had
+rendered them but suspicious auxiliaries to the governor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 13th.</i>&mdash;I took leave of my amiable friends at the palace.
+Madame do Rego gave me several specimens of amethyst, and the stone
+called minha nova (like aqua marine), and also a fine piece of gold ore
+of the province. She told me that Luiz do Rego had sent home many fine
+minerals from the captaincy, and also some fossils. She described some
+enormous bones, which may have belonged to the elephant or the mammoth,
+found at no great distance from Recife in digging a well, and, as far as
+I could understand, in such soil as I had observed lay under the sand in
+Cocoa-nut Island.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a></p>
+
+<p>A great dinner was given to-day, by the merchants, to the captain and
+officers. The governor, and other persons of dignity in the town, met
+them; I am told it was a very handsome dinner, that there was plenty of
+every kind of wine, and that nothing could exceed the friendly
+politeness of the governor and his party. I had remained at Mr. S.'s,
+where most of the company visited me after tea; and then we took leave
+of Pernambuco, where we had received much kindness, and had at least the
+enjoyment of novelty. The scene at our embarking was very pretty. Our
+friends went with us to the jetty, and our boats lying in the clear
+moonshine beneath it, with sailors going up and down preparing for us,
+the harbour and the shipping doubled by the clear reflection in the
+still water, heightened and set off the sparkling of the breakers that
+dashed against the outer fort and light-house. Through these we soon
+made our way and reached the ship, where I have once more taken
+possession of my cabin, and put it in order for sea.</p>
+
+<p>We leave Pernambuco, with a firm persuasion that this part of Brazil at
+least will never again tamely submit to Portugal. Where the firmness and
+conduct of Do Rego have failed to hold the captaincy in obedience, it
+will be in vain for other governors to attempt it, particularly so long
+as the state of the mother country is such as that she can neither fight
+with nor for her colonies; and while she considers them only as taxable
+parts of her states, that are bound to support her in her weakness.<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a></p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="c" id="c"></a><img src="images/006.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, Oct. 14th.</i>&mdash;We got under weigh after breakfast, and soon lost
+sight of Pernambuco. All Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, we coasted along
+within sight of the shores of Brazil. They are hilly and very woody, the
+green of the sloping banks being often interrupted by bright white
+patches, which seem to be of sand. In the evening of Tuesday the 16th,
+we anchored in the bay of All Saints, opposite to the town of St.
+Salvador, commonly called Bahia. It was quite dark before we got in, so
+that we lost the first entrance-view of that magnificent harbour; but
+the scattered lights show us the great extent and high situation of the
+town.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, 17th.</i>&mdash;This morning, at day-break, my eyes opened on one of
+the finest scenes they ever beheld. A city, magnificent in appearance
+from the sea, is placed along the ridge and on the declivity of a very
+high and steep hill: the richest vegetation breaks through the white
+houses at intervals, and beyond the city, reaches along to the outer
+point of land on which the picturesque church and convent of Sant
+Antonio da Barre is placed. Here and there the bright red soil shows
+itself in harmony with the tiling of the houses. The <i>tracery</i> of forts,
+the bustle of shipping, hills melting in the distance, and the very form
+of the bay, with its promontories and islands, altogether finish this
+charming picture; then the fresh sea-breeze gives spirit to enjoy it,
+notwithstanding its tropical climate.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the day we moved our anchorage closer in-shore; and then, on
+the invitation of Mr. Pennell, the British consul, we went ashore to
+spend the day with him. We landed at the arsenal, or rather dock-yard,
+where there is nothing of the neatness observable in such establishments
+at home. The first object we saw, however, was a fine 58-gun frigate on
+the stocks, the model of which I hear connoisseurs praise as beautiful.
+There is nothing besides the new ship, and some handsome pieces of old
+brass cannon, worth looking at. Every thing is visibly either suspended
+or on the decline, and there will probably be no improvement, until the
+political state of Brazil is a little more settled. We find things here,
+though not quite so unquiet as at Pernambuco, yet tending the same way.</p>
+
+<p>The street into which we proceeded through the arsenal gate, forms, at
+this place, the breadth of the whole lower town of Bahia, and is,
+without any exception, the filthiest place I ever was in. It is
+extremely narrow, yet all the working artificers bring their benches,
+and tools into the street: in the interstices between them, along the
+walls, are fruit-sellers, venders of sausages, black-puddings, fried
+fish, oil and sugar cakes, negroes plaiting hats or mats, caderas, (a
+kind of sedan chair,) with their bearers, dogs, pigs, and poultry,
+without partition or distinction; and as the gutter runs in the middle
+of the street, every thing is thrown there from the different stalls, as
+well as from the windows; and there the animals live and feed! In this
+street are the warehouses and counting-houses of the merchants, both
+native and foreign. The buildings are high, but neither so handsome nor
+so airy as those of Pernambuco.</p>
+
+<p>It was raining when we landed; therefore, as the streets leading out of
+the filthy lower town do not admit of the use of wheeled carriages, on
+account of the steepness of the ascent, we hired caderas, and found
+them, if not comfortable, at least commodious. They consist of a cane
+arm-chair, with a foot-board and a canopy covered with leather;
+curtains, generally of moreen, with gilt bordering and lined with cotton
+or linen, are contrived to draw round, or open at pleasure; and the
+whole is slung by the top to a single pole, by which two negroes carry
+it at a quick pace upon their shoulders, changing occasionally from
+right to left.<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="d" id="d"></a><img src="images/007.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p>As we ascended from the street, every step brought us in sight of some
+beautiful scene, generally terminated by the bay and shipping. There is
+something in the landscape here peculiarly agreeable. The verdure, the
+wood, the steep banks, and gently sloping lawns, generally opening to
+the sea or the lake behind the town, have a freshness and amenity that I
+scarcely remember seeing before. We saw but little of the upper city,
+but that little was handsome, in our way to the consul's. His house,
+like those of all the British merchants, is a little way out of town,
+and is in the suburb Vittoria, which occupies the greater part of a long
+narrow ridge extending from the town towards Sant Antonio: between it
+and the town is Fort Pedro, built, I think, originally of mud, by the
+Dutch. It was faced with stone, on the recovery of Bahia from the Dutch,
+about the beginning of the last century. We found the Consul and his
+daughter ready to receive us at their very pleasant garden-house, which
+literally overhangs the bay,&mdash;flowers and fruits mingle their sweets
+even down to the water's edge,&mdash;while</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Seaborn gales their gelid wings expand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To winnow fragrance round the smiling land."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Eager to seize the opportunity of walking out after our voyage, we
+accepted Miss Pennell's kind offer, to show us some of the surrounding
+country before dinner, and accompanied her as far as the church
+dedicated to N.S. da Gra&ccedil;a. It was the first offering of piety, I
+believe, to Christian worship by a native Brazilian.</p>
+
+<p>When the famous Caramuru was wrecked, together with the Donatory
+Coutinho, on Itaparica, Coutinho was put to death; but, Caramuru, being
+beloved by the natives, was spared, and he returned to his old
+settlement of Villa Velha. His wife, Catherine Paraguaza, who had
+accompanied him to France, saw an apparition in the camp of the Indians,
+and believing it to be a real European female, Caramuru followed in the
+direction his wife pointed out: he discovered, accordingly, in one of
+the huts, an image of N.S. da Gra&ccedil;a; and according to the directions his
+wife had received from the vision, built and dedicated the church, and
+bestowed it, and a house by it, on the Benedictines. It was at first
+of mud, but soon after was built of stone.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="bahia" id="bahia"></a><a href="images/008.png"><img src="images/008tb.png" alt="Tree in a Garden at Bahia." />
+<br />Tree in a Garden at Bahia.</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, 18th.</i>&mdash;We rode out before breakfast, through landscape so
+fine, that I wished for a poet or a painter at every step. Sometimes we
+went through thick wild wood into bushy hollows; then emerged on clear
+lawns, sprinkled with palm trees, through which country-houses, farms,
+and gardens were seen; and from every eminence, the bay, the sea, or the
+lake, formed part of the scene. Here and there the huge gamela tree<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a>
+stands like a tower, adorned, besides its own leaves, with numberless
+parasite plants, from the stiff cactus, to the swinging air plant<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a>;
+and the frequent tower of church and monastery soften and improve the
+features of the country.</p>
+
+<p>.
+Mr. Pennell has most kindly given our young men a general invitation to
+his house; and accordingly, to-day several of them dined with him, and
+we had a party in the evening, when some of the ladies played
+quadrilles, while others danced.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 19th.</i>&mdash;I accompanied Miss Pennell in a tour of visits to her
+Portuguese friends. As it is not their custom to visit or be visited in
+the forenoon, it was hardly fair to take a stranger to see them.
+However, my curiosity, at least, was gratified. In the first place, the
+houses, for the most part, are disgustingly dirty: the lower story
+usually consists of cells for the slaves, stabling &amp;c.; the staircases
+are narrow and dark; and, at more than one house, we waited in a passage
+while the servants ran to open the doors and windows of the
+sitting-rooms, and to call their mistresses, who were enjoying their
+undress in their own apartments. When they appeared, I could scarcely
+believe that one half were gentlewomen. As they wear neither stay nor
+bodice, the figure becomes almost indecently slovenly, after very early
+youth; and this is the more disgusting, as they are very thinly clad,
+wear no neck-handkerchiefs, and scarcely any sleeves. Then, in this hot
+climate, it is unpleasant to see dark cottons and stuffs, without any
+white linen, near the skin. Hair black, ill combed, and dishevelled, or
+knotted unbecomingly, or still worse, <i>en papillote</i>, and the whole
+person having an unwashed appearance. When at any of the houses the
+bustle of opening the cobwebbed windows, and assembling the family was
+over, in two or three instances, the servants had to remove dishes of
+sugar, mandioc, and other provisions, which had been left in the best
+rooms to dry. There is usually a sofa at each end of the room, and to
+the right and left a long file of chairs, which look as if they never
+could be moved out of their place. Between the two sets of seats is a
+space, which, I am told, is often used for dancing; and, in every house,
+I saw either a guitar or piano, and generally both. Prints and pictures,
+the latter the worst daubs I ever saw, decorate the walls pretty
+generally; and there are, besides, crucifixes and other things of the
+kind. Some houses, however, are more neatly arranged; one, I think
+belonging to a captain of the navy, was papered, the floors laid with
+mat, and the tables ornamented with pretty porcelain, Indian and French:
+the lady too was neatly dressed in a French wrapper. Another house
+belonging to one of the judges was also clean, and of a more stately
+appearance than the rest, though the inhabitant was neither richer nor
+of higher rank. Glass chandeliers were suspended from the roof; handsome
+mirrors were intermixed with the prints and pictures. A good deal of
+handsome china was displayed round the room; but the jars, as well as
+the chairs and tables, seemed to form an inseparable part of the walls.
+We were every where invited, after sitting a few moments on the sofa, to
+go to the balconies of the windows and enjoy the view and the breeze, or
+at least amuse ourselves with what was passing in the street. And yet
+they did not lack conversation: the principal topic, however, was praise
+of the beauty of Bahia; dress, children, and diseases, I think, made up
+the rest; and, to say the truth, their manner of talking on the latter
+subject is as disgusting as their dress, that is, in a morning: I am
+told they are different after dinner. They marry very early, and soon
+lose their bloom. I did not see one tolerably pretty woman to-day. But
+then who is there that can bear so total a disguise as filth and
+untidiness spread over a woman?</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 20th.</i>&mdash;As the charts of this coast hitherto published are
+very incorrect, the captain asked permission from government to sound
+and survey the bay: it is refused on the ground of policy; as if it
+could be policy to keep hidden rocks and shoals, for one's own as well
+as other people's ships.</p>
+
+<p>I walked through the greater part of the town. The lower part extends
+much farther than I could see the day I landed; it contains a few
+churches, one of which, belonging to the monastery of <i>A concep&ccedil;a&ocirc;</i>, is
+very handsome, but the smell within is disgusting; the flooring is laid
+in squares with stone, and within each square there is a panelling of
+wood of about nine feet by six; under each panel is a vault, into which
+the dead are thrown naked, until they reach a certain number, when with
+a little quick-lime thrown in, the wood is fastened down, and then
+another square is opened, and so on in rotation. From that church,
+passing the arsenal gate, we went along the low street, and found it
+widen considerably at three quarters of a mile beyond: there are the
+markets, which seem to be admirably supplied, especially with fish.
+There also is the slave market, a sight I have not yet learned to see
+without shame and indignation<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a>: beyond are a set of arcades, where
+goldsmiths, jewellers, and haberdashers display their small wares, and
+there are the best-looking shops; but there is a want of neatness, of
+that art of making things look well, that invites a buyer in England and
+France. One bookseller's shop, where books are extravagantly dear,
+exists in the low town, and one other in the ascent to the upper.</p>
+
+<p>The upper town is most beautifully situated on the ridge between the sea
+and the fresh water lake, and from its height, and the great slope of
+most of the streets, it is incomparably cleaner than the port. The
+cathedral dedicated to St. Salvador is a handsome building, and stands
+on one side of a square, where the palace, prison, and other public
+buildings are placed. The finest of these, the Jesuits' college, the
+marble columns of which came from Europe ready cut, is now converted
+into a barrack. The most useful is the hospital of Nossa Senhora da
+Misericordia<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>, founded by Juan de Matinhos, whose statue in white
+marble, with a wig like Sir Cloudesley Shovel's in Westminster Abbey,
+stands at the first landing-place, and is the ugliest piece of carving I
+ever saw.</p>
+
+<p>This hospital, besides its use as a refuge for the sick, of whom there
+are generally about 120, maintains 50 young girls of decent parentage,
+to whom a suitable education is given, and a dowry of 200 crowns
+bestowed on them when they marry.<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> The building of the Misericordia
+is a fair specimen of the style of the convents, public buildings, and
+more noble houses,&mdash;rather handsome than elegant. It surrounds a large
+area, subdivided into smaller courts; the staircase is of marble, inlaid
+with coloured stucco, and the sides are lined with tiles of porcelain,
+so as to form arabesques, often of very pretty design. This is both a
+cool and a cleanly lining to a wall, particularly for an hospital. The
+principal rooms are also decorated in the same manner; and many of the
+fronts and cupolas of the churches are covered with similar tiles, the
+effect of which is often exceedingly agreeable, when seen among the
+trees and plainer buildings of the city. The chapel belonging to the
+hospital is handsome, a little gaudy, however. The ceiling is
+respectably painted, and was probably the work of an amateur monk of
+the seventeenth century. The treatment of the sick is humane, and they
+are well provided with food and other necessaries; but the medical
+practice, though much improved of late years, is not the most
+enlightened.</p>
+
+<p>There is a great deal of jealousy of foreigners in the present
+government, hence I was not able to enter many of the public buildings.
+The government treasury was one I was desirous to see, but there were
+objections. The treasury here was formerly considered as subordinate to
+that of Rio de Janeiro, and accordingly paid a portion of its receipts
+to bills drawn monthly by the treasurer in the capital, upon this, and
+those of the other provinces. But since the revolution of the 10th of
+February, the provisional government has taken upon itself to refuse
+payment, on the grounds that it is entirely independent of Rio, until
+the pleasure of the cortes at Lisbon shall be known. The revenue is
+derived from direct taxes on land and provisions, excise upon exports
+and imports, and harbour dues. Land is subject to a tax of one-tenth of
+the whole of its produce, and since the revolution, church lands are
+under the same law, and the clergy are paid by the government.</p>
+
+<p>The taxes on provisions are annually farmed out to the highest bidder:
+they are imposed on beef, fresh fish, farinha, and vegetables. Each
+parish has its separate farmer, who pays the amount of his contract into
+the treasury, and then makes the most he can of his dues.</p>
+
+<p>The import and export duties are paid at the custom-house, between which
+and the treasury a monthly settlement takes place.</p>
+
+<p>The port dues for foreign ships are 2000 reals per day, a trifle for the
+light house, and rather heavy charges for entering, clearing, &amp;c.
+Portuguese and Brazilian ships pay no anchorage, but are subject to a
+tonnage.</p>
+
+<p>We ended our perambulation of the town, by going to the opera at night.
+The theatre<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> is placed on the highest part of the city, and the
+platform before it commands the finest view imaginable. It is a handsome
+building, and very commodious, both to spectators and actors. Within it
+is very large and well laid out, but dirty and in great want of fresh
+painting. The actors are very bad as such, and little better as singers;
+but the orchestra is very tolerable. The piece was a very ill-acted
+tragedy, founded on Voltaire's Mahomed. During the representation, the
+Portuguese ladies and gentlemen seemed determined to forget the stage
+altogether, and to laugh, eat sweetmeats, and drink coffee, as if at
+home. When the musicians, however, began to play the overture to the
+ballet, every eye and voice was directed to the stage, and a loud call
+for the national hymn followed, and not till it had been played again
+and again, was the ballet suffered to proceed. During the bustle
+occasioned by this, a captain in the army was arrested and hurried out
+of the pit; some say for picking pockets, others for using intemperate
+language on politics, when the national hymn was called for. Meantime
+one of the midshipmen of our party had his sword stolen, adroitly
+enough, from the corner of the box, yet we perceived nobody enter; so
+that we conclude a gentleman in regimentals in the next box thought it
+would suit him, and so buckled it on to go home with.</p>
+
+<p>The police here is in a wretched state. The use of the dagger is so
+frequent, that the secret murders generally average two hundred yearly,
+between the upper and lower towns. To this evil the darkness and
+steepness of the streets mainly contribute, by furnishing almost a
+certainty of escape. The nominal <i>intendente da policia</i> is also the
+supreme judge in criminal cases. No law, however, has as yet determined
+the limits or scope, either of his power, or that of the
+lieutenant-colonel of police, who calls upon a few soldiers from any of
+the garrisons whenever he has to act, and who appoints military patroles
+also from among the soldiers on duty. It often happens that persons
+accused before this formidable officer are seized and imprisoned for
+years, without ever being brought to a trial; a malicious information,
+whether true or false, subjects a man's private house to be broken open
+by the colonel and his gang; and if the master escapes imprisonment it
+is well, though the house scarcely ever escapes pillage. In cases of
+riot and quarrels in the street, the colonel generally orders the
+soldiers to fall on with canes, and beat people into their senses. Such
+being the state of the police, it is, perhaps, more wonderful that
+murders are so few, than that they are so many. Where there is little or
+no public justice, private revenge will take its place.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, 21st.</i>&mdash;We went to the English chapel, and were well pleased
+with the decent manner in which the service was performed. The Rev.
+Robert Synge is chaplain, a man of cheerful convivial manners, yet
+exceedingly attentive both as chaplain, and as guardian of his poorer
+countrymen. The chapel and clergymen are supported by the contribution
+fund, as are also the hospital for English sailors and others, and its
+surgeon, Mr. Dundas: both the hospital and chapel are under the same
+roof. I was surprised, perhaps unreasonably, to hear Mr. Synge pray for
+"Don John of Portugal, Sovereign of these realms, by whose gracious
+permission we are enabled to meet and worship God according to our
+conscience," or words to that effect. We were not so polite in Rome, I
+remember, as to pray for His Holiness, though it would have been but
+reasonable.</p>
+
+<p>Returning from chapel, we saw great part of the troops drawn up in
+inspecting order, on the little green between <i>Buenos Ayres</i> (the name
+of the hospital) and Fort Pedro. Every Portuguese is, it seems, by birth
+a soldier; and nothing exempts a man from military duty, but his holding
+a place under government. There are six corps of militia in the city of
+Bahia: 1st, one company of mounted gentlemen, forming the government
+guard of honour; 2d, one squadron of flying artillery; 3d and 4th, two
+regiments of whites, almost all tradespeople; 5th, one regiment of
+mulatoes; and 6th, one of free blacks, amounting altogether to 4000 men,
+well armed and equipped; but the black regiment is unquestionably the
+best trained, and most serviceable, as a light infantry corps. The
+regiments of country militia, as those of Cachoeira, Piraja, &amp;c. are much
+stronger, and with those of the city, amount to about 15,000 men. The
+officers are chosen from among the most respectable families, and with
+the exception of the majors and adjutants, who are of the line, receive
+no pay.</p>
+
+<p>The troops of the capital are generally reviewed or inspected on
+Sundays, and sometimes the regular Portuguese are reviewed with them.
+There is always something gay and inspiriting in martial sounds and
+martial sights; and the fine weather, gay landscape, and above all, the
+idea that in a day or two, nay, this very night, these same soldiers
+might be called into action, did not render the scene less interesting.
+The native artillery have long garrisoned some of the forts. It appears
+that the royal troops of Portugal have claimed some superiority, and
+above all, have demanded their guns and ammunition; and so there is a
+dispute, in which the royalists and independents take part, and every
+day hostilities are expected; but both parties seem so willing to be
+peaceable, that I trust the matter will end without bloodshed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, 22d.</i>&mdash;This evening there was a large party, both Portuguese
+and English, at the consul's. In the well-dressed women I saw to-night,
+I had great difficulty in recognising the slatterns of the other
+morning. The senhoras were all dressed after the French fashion: corset,
+fichu, garniture, all was proper, and even elegant, and there was a
+great display of jewels. Our English ladies, though quite of the second
+rate of even colonial gentility, however, bore away the prize of beauty
+and grace; for after all, the clothes, however elegant, that are not
+worn habitually, can only embarrass and cramp the native movements; and,
+as Mademoiselle Clairon remarks, "she who would <i>act</i> a gentlewoman in
+public, must <i>be</i> one in private life."</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese men have all a mean look; none appear to have any
+education beyond counting-house forms, and their whole time is, I
+believe, spent between trade and gambling: in the latter, the ladies
+partake largely after they are married. Before that happy period, when
+there is no evening dance, they surround the card tables, and with eager
+eyes follow the game, and long for the time when they too may mingle in
+it. I scarcely wonder at this propensity. Without education, and
+consequently without the resources of mind, and in a climate where
+exercise out of doors is all but impossible, a stimulus must be had; and
+gambling, from the sage to the savage, has always been resorted to, to
+quicken the current of life. On the present occasion, we feared the
+young people would have been disappointed of their dance, because the
+fiddlers, after waiting some time, went away, as they alleged, because
+they had not their tea early enough; however, some of the ladies
+volunteered to play the piano, and the ball lasted till past midnight.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, 23d.</i>&mdash;I rode with Mr. Dance and Mr. Ricken along the banks of
+the lake, decidedly the most beautiful scenery in this beautiful
+country; and then through wild groves, where all the splendours of
+Brazilian animal and vegetable life were displayed. The gaudy plumage of
+the birds, the brilliant hues of the insects, the size, and shape, and
+colour, and fragrance, of the flowers and shrubs, seen mostly for the
+first time, enchanted us, and rendered our little journey to the great
+pepper gardens, whither we were going, delightful. Every hedge is at
+this season gay with coffee blossom, but it is too early in the year for
+the pepper or the cotton to be in beauty. It is not many years since
+Francisco da Cunha and Menezes sent the pepper plant from Goa for these
+gardens, which were afterwards enlarged by him, when he became governor
+of Bahia. Plants were sent from hence to Pernambuco, which have
+succeeded in the botanical garden.</p>
+
+<p>From the pepper gardens we rode on to a convent at the farther extremity
+of the town, and overlooking both the bays, above and below the
+peninsula of Bon fin, or N.S. da Monserrat. It is called the Soledad,
+and the nuns are famous for their delicate sweetmeats, and for the
+manufacture of artificial flowers, formed of the feathers of the
+many-coloured birds of their country. I admired the white water-lily
+most, though the pomegranate flower, the carnation, and the rose are
+imitated with the greatest exactness. The price of all these things is
+exorbitant; but the convents having lost much of their property since
+the revolution, the nuns are fain to make up by the produce of this
+petty industry, for the privations imposed on them by the reduction of
+their rents.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, October 24th.</i>&mdash;Mr. Pennell, his daughter, and a few other
+friends, joined us in an expedition to Itaparica<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a>, a large island
+that forms the western side of the Bay of All Saints. A shoal runs off
+from it a long way to sea, and there are reefs of coral rocks on
+different parts of its coast. The distance from the city to the nearest
+landing place on the island is five miles and a half, which our boats'
+crews rowed in less than two hours. We put in between two ledges of
+rock, to a little jetty, belonging to the fazenda or factory of Aseoli,
+or Filisberti, both of whom were partners in Jerome Buonaparte's
+commercial establishment here. There is no town on Itaparica; but there
+is a villa, or village, with a fort on the Punto de Itaparica, which
+commands the passage between it and the main land, and also the mouth of
+the river, on which stands Nazareth da Farinha, so called from the
+abundance of that article which it produces. There are also a great many
+fazendas, which, with their establishment of slaves and cattle, may be
+considered as so many hamlets. Each sugar farm, or ingenho, as the
+fazendas are oftener called here, has its little community of slaves
+around it; and in their huts something like the blessings of freedom are
+enjoyed, in the family ties and charities they are not forbidden to
+enjoy. I went into several of the huts, and found them cleaner and more
+comfortable than I expected; each contains four or five rooms, and each
+room appeared to hold a family. These out-of-door slaves, belonging to
+the great ingenhos, in general are better off than the slaves of masters
+whose condition is nearer to their own, because, "The more the master is
+removed from us, in place and rank, the greater the liberty we enjoy;
+the less our actions are inspected and controuled; and the fainter that
+cruel comparison becomes betwixt our own subjection, and the freedom, or
+even dominion of another." But, at best, the comforts of slaves must be
+precarious. Here it is not uncommon to give a slave his freedom, when he
+is too old or too infirm to work; that is, to turn him out of doors to
+beg or starve. A few days ago, as a party of gentlemen were returning
+from a <i>pic nic</i>, they found a poor negro woman lying in a dying state,
+by the side of the road. The English gentlemen applied to their
+Portuguese companions to speak to her, and comfort her, as thinking she
+would understand them better; but they said, "Oh, 'tis only a black: let
+us ride on," and so they did without further notice. The poor creature,
+who was a dismissed slave, was carried to the English hospital, where
+she died in two days. Her diseases were age and hunger.<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> The slaves I
+saw here working in the distillery, appear thin, and I should say
+over-worked; but, I am told, that it is only in the distilling months
+that they appear so, and that at other seasons they are as fat and
+cheerful as those in the city, which is saying a great deal. They have a
+little church and burying-ground here, and as they see their little lot
+the lot of all, are more contented than I thought a slave could be.</p>
+
+<p>Sugar is the principal product of Itaparica; but the greater part of the
+poultry, vegetables, and fruit, consumed in Bahia, are also from the
+island, and lime is made here in considerable quantities from the
+madrepores and corals found on the beach. This island used to furnish
+the neighbourhood with horses. When the English fleet and army stopped
+here, on the way to the Cape of Good Hope, the horses for the cavalry
+regiments were procured here. However, there is nothing remarkable in
+Itaparica but its fertility; the landscape is the same in character with
+that of Bahia, though in humbler style; but it is fresh and green, and
+pleasing. After dining in a palm-grove, and walking about till we were
+tired, we re-embarked to return; but the tide was unfavourable; we
+drifted among the rocks, where Coutinho, the first founder of the colony
+of Bahia, was wrecked and afterwards murdered by the natives, and we
+were in consequence four hours in returning home.</p>
+
+<p>26th, 27th, 28th, passed in pleasant enough intercourse with our
+countrymen, though neither of us were well enough to go much on shore,
+therefore our friends came to us. There are eighteen English mercantile
+houses established at Bahia, two French, and two German. The English
+trade is principally carried on with Liverpool, which supplies
+manufactured goods and salt, in exchange for sugars, rums, tobaccos,
+cottons, very little coffee, and molasses. Lately, sugars have been
+shipped, on English account, for Hamburgh to a great extent, and I
+believe part of the returns are in German or Prussian woollen-cloths.
+The province of Bahia, by its neglect of manufactures, is quite
+dependent on commerce. But the distance from the sea of the province of
+Minas Geraes, has induced the inhabitants to weave not only enough
+coarse cotton cloths for home consumption, but even to become an article
+of trade with the other captaincies.</p>
+
+<p>In the province of Esperitu Santo, cotton sail-cloth is made; but the
+chief trade of this place is <i>slaving</i>. This year no less than
+seventy-six slave-ships have sailed, without reckoning the smugglers in
+that line.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, 28th.</i>&mdash;Mr. Pennell had kindly fixed to-day for giving us a
+party in the country, and accordingly some of our young people were to
+go and assist in putting up tents, &amp;c.; but a miscalculation of tide and
+time, and a mistake as to the practicability of landing on part of the
+beach beyond the light-house, occasioned a variety of adventures and
+accidents, without which I have always heard no f&ecirc;te champ&ecirc;tre could be
+perfect. However that may be, our party was a pleasant one. Instead of
+the tents, we made use of a country-house called the Ro&ccedil;a, where beauty
+of situation, and neatness in itself and garden, made up for whatever we
+might have thought romantic in the tents, had they been erected. It is
+the fashion to pave the courts of the country-houses here with dark
+pebbles, and to form in the pavement a sort of mosaic with milk-white
+shells. The gardens are laid out in alleys, something in the oriental
+taste. The millions of ants, which often in the course of a single night
+leave the best-clothed orange-tree bare both of leaves and flowers,
+render it necessary to surround each tree with a little stucco wall, or
+rather canal, in which there is water, till they are strong enough to
+recover if attacked by the ants. In the garden at Ro&ccedil;a, every shrub of
+value, either for fruit or beauty, was so fenced, and there were seats,
+and water channels, and porcelain flower-pots, that made me almost think
+myself in the East. But there is a newness in every thing here, a want
+of interest on account of what has been, that is most sensibly felt. At
+most, we can only go back to the naked savage who devoured his prisoner,
+and adorned himself with bones and feathers here. In the East,
+imagination is at liberty to expatiate on past grandeur, wisdom, and
+politeness. Monuments of art and of science meet us at every step:
+<i>here</i>, every thing, nature herself, wears an air of newness, and the
+Europeans, so evidently foreign to the climate, and their African
+slaves, repugnant to every wholesome feeling, show too plainly that they
+are intruders, ever to be in harmony with the scene. However, Ro&ccedil;a is
+beautiful, and all those grave thoughts did not prevent us from
+delighting in the fair prospect of</p>
+
+<p class="c">"Hill and valley, fountain and fresh shade;"</p>
+
+<p>nor enjoying the scent of oleander, jasmine, tuberose, and rose,
+although they are adopted, not native children of the soil.</p>
+
+<p>Of the Portuguese society here I know so very little, that it would be
+presumptuous to give an opinion of it. I have met with two or three
+well-informed men of the world, and some lively conversable women; but
+none of either sex that at all reminded me of the well-educated men and
+women of Europe. Here the state of general education is so low, that
+more than common talent and desire of knowledge is requisite to attain
+any; therefore the clever men are acute, and sometimes a little vain,
+feeling themselves so much above their fellow-citizens, and the portion
+of book-learning is small. Of those who read on political subjects, most
+are disciples of Voltaire, and they outgo his doctrines on politics, and
+equal his indecency as to religion; hence to sober people who have seen
+through the European revolutions, their discourses are sometimes
+disgusting. The Portuguese seldom dine with each other; when they do, it
+is on some great occasion, to justify a splendid feast: they meet every
+evening either at the play, or in private houses, and in the last case
+gamble very deeply. The English society is just such as one may expect.
+A few merchants, not of the first order, whose thoughts are engrossed by
+sugars and cottons, to the utter exclusion of all public; matters that
+do not bear directly on their private trade, and of all matters of
+general science or information. Not one knew the name of the plants
+around his own door; not one is acquainted with the country ten miles
+beyond St. Salvador's; not one could tell me even the situation of the
+fine red clay, of which the only manufacture, pottery, here is made: in
+short, I was completely out of patience with these incurious
+money-makers. I was perhaps unjust to my countrymen: I dare say there
+are many who <i>could</i> have told me these things, but I am sure none <i>did</i>
+tell me, and equally sure that I asked information of all I met with.
+But a woman is not, I believe, considered as privileged to know any
+thing by these commercial personages. The English are, however,
+hospitable and sociable among each other. They often dine together: the
+ladies love music and dancing, and some of the men gamble as much as the
+Portuguese. Upon the whole, society is at a low, very low scale here
+among the English. Good eating and good drinking they contrive, to have,
+for the flesh, fish, and fowl are good; fruits and vegetables various
+and excellent, and bread of the finest. Their slaves, for the English
+are all served by slaves, indeed, eat a sort of porridge of mandioc meal
+with small squares of jerked beef stirred into it, or, as their greatest
+luxury, stewed caravansas; and this is likewise the principal food of
+the lower classes even of the free inhabitants. In the fruit season,
+pumpkins, jackfruit, cocoa-nut, and melons, nearly take place of the
+mandioc. The huts of the poor are formed of upright poles, with branches
+of trees wattled between, and covered and lined either with cocoa-leaf
+mats, or clay; the roofs are also thatched. The better houses are built
+either of a fine blue stone, quarried on the beach of Victoria, or of
+brick. They are all white-washed: where the floor is not laid with wood,
+a fine red brick, six to nine inches square, and three in thickness, is
+used, and they are roofed with round red tiles. The houses are generally
+of one story high, with a room or two above by way of a look-out house.
+Under the house is generally a sort of cellar, in which the slaves live;
+and really I have sometimes wondered that human beings could exist in
+such.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 2d November.</i>&mdash;Several of our people having yielded to the
+temptations of some worthless persons in the town, who induce sailors to
+desert in order that they themselves may profit by the premium given for
+the discovery of deserters, and having consequently swam on shore, the
+frigate has been moved up the harbour as far as Bom Fim, and it is
+intended to take her up still higher. I am glad of the opportunity of
+seeing more of this beautiful bay, and shall endeavour to land on the
+Ilha do Medo, or the point of Itaparica, where the first adventurers
+from Europe underwent hardship that appear hardly credible in our modern
+days. We also wish to examine the harbour within the funil or passage
+between the two islands, and into which the river or creek of Nazareth,
+which supplies Bahia with great part of the mandioc flour consumed
+there, runs.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 3d November.</i>&mdash;Our plan of proceeding farther up the harbour
+is suspended for the present. The disputes between the European
+Portuguese and the Brazilians in the city, seem to be about to come to a
+crisis. Early this morning, we learned that troops were assembling from
+all quarters, and that therefore it was advisable, for the protection of
+the British property and the persons of the merchants, that the ship
+should return to her station opposite to the town. The first provisional
+junta has lost several of its members, two of them being gone as
+delegates to Lisbon, and others being absent on account of ill health or
+disgust. The party opposing this junta talk loudly of independence, and
+wish at least one-half of the members of the provisional government to
+be native Brazilians. They also complain bitterly, that instead of
+redressing the evils they before endured, the junta has increased them
+by several arbitrary acts; and assert that one of the members who has a
+great grazing estate, has procured a monopoly, by which no man can
+supply the market with beef without his permission, so that the city is
+ill supplied. Such a ground of complaint will always excite popular
+indignation, and it appears now to be at its height. There has already
+been some skirmishing, in which, however, I hear there have been only
+three men killed. The Brazilian artillery occupies Fort San Pedro; the
+governor, and the wreck of the junta, have the town and the palace. The
+governor, indeed, has arrested several, I think seventeen persons, in an
+arbitrary manner; among these, two of my acquaintance, Colonel
+Salvador<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> and Mr. Soares, and have put them, some on board the Don
+Pedro, some on board transports in the bay, for the purpose of
+transporting them to Lisbon. Some of these persons are not permitted to
+have any communication with their families; others, more favoured, are
+allowed to carry them with them. These are not the means to conciliate.
+We have sent on shore to offer shelter to the ladies, and Captain Graham
+has agreed upon certain signals with the consul, in case of increased
+danger to his family.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, November 4th.</i>&mdash;On looking out at daylight this morning, we saw
+artillery planted, and troops drawn up on the platform opposite to the
+opera house. I went on shore to see if Miss Pennell, her sister, or any
+of our other friends would come on board; but they naturally prefer
+staying to the last with their fathers and husbands. Notwithstanding the
+warlike movements of these last two days, it appears most likely that
+the chiefs of the opposite parties will agree to await the decision of
+the cortes at Lisbon, with respect to their grievances, and at least a
+temporary peace will succeed to this little disturbance.</p>
+
+<p>It appears, however, next to impossible that things should remain as
+they are. The extreme inconvenience of having the supreme courts of
+justice so far distant as Lisbon must be more and more felt as the
+country increases in population and riches. The deputies to the cortes
+are too far removed from their constituents to be guided in their
+deliberations or votes by them; and the establishment of so many juntas
+of government, each only accountable to the cortes, must be a cause of
+internal disorder, if not of civil war, at no distant time.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, 5th.</i>&mdash;A day of heavy tropical rain, which has forced both
+parties on shore to house their guns, and to desist for the present from
+all farther hostility. The governor, however, continues his arbitrary
+arrestations. It is curious how ancient authority awes men; for surely
+it is the accustomed obedience to the name of the king, and the dread of
+the name of rebellion, that prevents the Brazilians, armed as they are,
+from resisting these things.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, November 6th.</i>&mdash;The Morgiana, Captain Finlaison, came in from
+Rio de Janeiro. She belongs to the African station, and came to Brazil
+about some prize business connected with the slave trade. Captain
+Finlaison tells me tales that make my blood run cold, of horrors
+committed in the French slave ships especially. Of young negresses,
+headed up in casks and thrown overboard, when the ships are chased. Of
+others, stowed in boxes when a ship was searched; with a bare chance of
+surviving their confinement. But where the trade is once admitted, no
+wonder the heart becomes callous to the individual sufferings of the
+slaves. The other day I took up some old Bahia newspapers, numbers of
+the Idade d'Ouro, and I find in the list of ships entered during three
+months of this year,</p>
+
+<table summary="slaveships" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">Alive.</td><td align="right">Dead.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1</td><td> slave ship</td><td> from Moyanbique, 25th March, with </td><td align="right"> 313 </td><td align="right"> 180</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1</td><td> do.</td><td>&mdash; 6th March </td><td align="right"> 378 </td><td align="right"> 61</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1 </td><td>do.</td><td>&mdash; 30th May </td><td align="right"> 293 </td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1</td><td> do.</td><td>&mdash; 29th June from Molendo, </td><td align="right"> 357 </td><td align="right"> 102</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1</td><td> do.</td><td>&mdash; 26th June </td><td align="right"> 233 </td><td align="right"> 21</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1574</td><td align="right">374</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>So that of the cargoes of these five ships reckoned thus accidentally,
+more than one in five had died on the passage!</p>
+
+<p>It seems the English ships of war on the African coast are allowed to
+hire free blacks to make up their complements when deficient. There are
+several now onboard the Morgiana, two of whom are petty officers, and
+they are found most useful hands. They are paid and victualled like our
+own seamen.<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, November 8.</i>&mdash;We went on board Morgiana to call on Mrs.
+Macgregor, a lively intelligent Spaniard, who with her husband, Colonel
+Macgregor, is a passenger. She joined me in visits on shore, where the
+only news is, that the governor continues to arrest all persons
+suspected of favouring independence.</p>
+
+<p><i>November 9.</i>&mdash;The Brazilians who occupy the forts of San Pedro and
+Santa Maria, had threatened to fire on the Don Pedro, if she attempted
+to get under weigh with the state prisoners on board. Nevertheless
+during the night she bent her sails, and sailed early this morning,
+carrying, it is said, twenty-eight gentlemen, who have been taken up
+without any ostensible reason. They are understood to have spoken in
+favour of the independence of Brazil. Several of our officers went on
+shore to dine with the gentlemen of the English club, who meet once a
+month, to eat a very good dinner, and drink an immoderate quantity of
+wine for the honour of their country.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, November 13.</i>&mdash;We have had, for ten days past, some of the
+heaviest showers I remember to have seen, and in going to and from the
+ship, we have generally been wet through; nevertheless some of our
+friends ventured on board to-day to dine with us, among the rest Colonel
+and Mrs. Macgregor; they were a little late, owing to a skirmish between
+the Portuguese and Brazilians, that occurred close to their house, just
+as they were setting off. Apparently it had not been premeditated, for
+the parties were fighting with sticks and stones, as well as swords and
+fire-arms. The combatants would not allow any officer in Portuguese
+regimentals to pass, so that Colonel Macgregor was obliged to go back
+and change his dress before he could come. All this appears to proceed
+more from a want of police than any other cause.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th</i>.&mdash;Several of our young people and I myself have begun to feel the
+bad effects of exposing ourselves too much to the sun and the rain.
+Yesterday I was so unwell as to put on a blister for cough and pain in
+my side, and several of the others have slight degrees of fever. But
+generally speaking, the ship's company has been remarkably healthy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 16th</i>.&mdash;Captain Graham taken suddenly and alarmingly ill.
+Towards evening he became better, and was able to attend to a most
+painful business. Last night a man belonging to the Morgiana was killed,
+and the corporal of marines belonging to the ship severely wounded, on
+shore. It appears that neither of these men had so much as seen the
+murderer before. He had been drinking in the inner room of a venda with
+some sailors, and having quarrelled with one of them, he fancied the
+rest were going to seize him, when he drew his knife to intimidate them,
+and rushed furiously out of the room. The young man who was killed was
+standing at the outer door, waiting for one of his companions who was
+within, and the murderer seeing him there, imagined he also wished to
+stop him, and therefore stabbed him to the heart. Our corporal, who was
+passing by, saw the deed, and of course attempted to seize him, and in
+the attempt received a severe wound. It is said, I know not with what
+truth, that Captain Finlaison is so hated here, on account of his
+activity against the slave trade, that none of his people are safe, and
+the death of the unfortunate man is attributed to that cause; but it
+appears to have been the result of a drunken quarrel. The town, however,
+appears to be in a sad disorderly state: besides our two men, a
+Brazilian officer was dangerously wounded in the dark, and three
+Brazilian soldiers and their corporal were found murdered last night.
+Captain Graham had sent one of his officers to act for him on the
+occasion, and to apply through the British consul to the police
+magistrate, Francisco Jose Perreira, for redress.<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> He himself is
+sensibly worse since he exerted himself to attend to this painful
+business.</p>
+
+<p>The disorders of this climate are sadly enfeebling; they attack both
+mind and body, producing a painful sensitiveness to the slightest
+incident.</p>
+
+<p><i>November 18th.</i>&mdash;Our invalids have been sadly disturbed by the rockets
+which have been fired, ever since sunrise, from the church of our Lady
+of Conception<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a>, whose feast is on the 8th of December. But the three
+Sundays previous to it the church and convent are adorned, sermons are
+preached, rockets are fired, contributions are made, and the shipping in
+the harbour fire salooes at sunrise, at noon, and at sunset. The annual
+expense of rockets, and other fireworks, is enormous. Those used in
+Brazil all come from the East Indies and China. Sometimes, when
+manufactured goods are unsaleable here, the merchant ships them on board
+a Portuguese East Indiaman, and gets in return fireworks, which never
+fail to pay well. I have seen a set of cut-glass sent to Calcutta for
+the purpose, or a girandole, too handsome for Brazilian purchasers.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday the ship's pinnace, which had been absent five days with the
+master, my cousin Glennie, and young Grey, returned. They had gone to
+examine the river of Cachoeira, and came back highly delighted with
+their trip, though they had some very bad weather; however, with
+tarpaulines, cloaks, and a blanket or two, which I insisted on their
+taking, they managed so well as to have returned in good health.</p>
+
+<p>Cachoeira, about fifty miles from Bahia, is a good town, where there is
+one English merchant resident. It is populous<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> and busy; for it is
+the place where the produce, chiefly cotton and tobacco, of a very
+considerable district, is collected, in order to be shipped for Bahia.
+It is divided into two unequal parts, by the river Paraguazu. Its parish
+church is dedicated to our Lady of the Rosary. It has two convents, four
+chapels, an hospital, a fountain, and three stone bridges over the small
+rivers Pitanga and Caquende, on which there are very extensive
+sugar-works. There are wharfs on both sides of the river. The streets
+are well paved, and the houses built of stone, and tiled: the country is
+flat, but agreeable. The river is not navigable more than two miles
+above the town; it there narrows and becomes interrupted by rocks and
+rapids, and there is a wooden bridge across it. About five miles from
+Cachoeira, there is an insulated conical hill, called that of
+Conception, whence there often proceed noises like explosions. These
+noises are considered in this country as indicative of the existence of
+metals. Near this place a piece of native copper was found, weighing
+upwards of fifty-two arobas. It is now in the museum of Lisbon.</p>
+
+<p>Our exploring party landed on several of the islands, on their way up
+the river, and were every where received with great hospitality, and
+delighted with the beauty and fertility of the country.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d.</i>&mdash;At length all the invalids, excepting myself, are better; but,
+with another blister on, I can do little but write, or look from the
+cabin windows; and when I do look, I am sure to see something
+disagreeable. This very moment, there is a slave ship discharging her
+cargo, and the slaves are singing as they go ashore. They have left the
+ship, and they see they will be on the dry land; and so, at the command
+of their keeper, they are singing one of their country songs, in a
+strange land. Poor wretches! could they foresee the slave-market, and
+the separations of friends and relations that will take place there, and
+the march up the country, and the labour of the mines, and the
+sugar-works, their singing would be a wailing cry. But that "blindness
+to the future kindly given," allows them a few hours of sad enjoyment.
+This is the principal slave port in Brazil; and the negroes appear to me
+to be of a finer, stronger race, than any I have ever seen. One of the
+provisional junta of government is the greatest slave merchant here.
+Yet, I am happy to say, the Bahia press has lately actually printed a
+pamphlet against the slave trade. Within the last year, seventy-six
+ships have sailed from this port for the coast of Africa; and it is well
+known that many of them will slave to the northward of the line, in
+spite of all treaties to the contrary: but the system of false papers is
+so cunningly and generally carried on, that detection is far from easy;
+and the difficulties that lie in the way of condemning any slave ship,
+render it a matter of hazard to detain them. An owner, however, is well
+satisfied, if one cargo in three arrives safe; and eight or nine
+successful voyages make a fortune. Many Brazilian Portuguese have no
+occupation whatever: they lay out a sum of money in slaves; which slaves
+are ordered out every day, and must bring in a certain sum each night;
+and these are the boatmen, chairmen, porters, and weavers of mats and
+hats that are to be hired in the streets and markets, and who thus
+support their masters.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday the Morgiana sailed for Pernambuco, whence she will
+return to the coast of Africa. To-day the Antigone French frigate,
+commanded by Captain Villeneuve, nephew to the admiral of that name who
+was at Trafalgar, came in. Whenever France and England are not at war,
+the French and English certainly seek each other, and like each other
+more than any other two nations: and yet they seem like two great heads
+of parties, and the other nations take the French and English sides, as
+if there were no cause of opposition but theirs. Others may account for
+the fact, I am satisfied that it is so; and that whenever we meet a
+Frenchman in time of peace, in a distant country, it is something akin
+to the pleasure of seeing a countryman; and it is particularly the case
+with French naval men. Frequent intercourse of any kind, even that of
+war, begets a similarity of habits, manners, and ideas; so I suppose we
+have grown alike by fighting, and are all the more likely to fight
+again.</p>
+
+<p>There is a report, but I believe not well founded, that placards are
+stuck up about the city threatening that all Europeans, especially
+Portuguese, who do not leave the place before the 24th of December,
+shall be massacred. I listen to these things, because reports, even when
+false, indicate something of the spirit of the times.</p>
+
+<p><i>December 8th.</i>&mdash;This place is now so quiet that the merchants feel
+quite safe, and therefore we are leaving Bahia. I have taken leave of
+many hospitable persons who have shown us much attention; but my health
+is so indifferent, that but for the sake of that civility which I felt
+due to them, I should not have gone ashore again: however, it is all
+done, and we are in the act of getting under weigh.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="e" id="e"></a><img src="images/009.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>9th.</i>&mdash;As we sailed out of the bay, we amused ourselves with
+conjecturing the possible situation of Robinson Crusoe's plantation in
+the bay of All Saints. Those who had been at Cachoeira chose that it
+should be in that direction; while such as had been confined to the
+neighbourhood of the city pitched on different sitios, all or any of
+which might have answered the purpose. There is a charm in Defoe's works
+that one hardly finds, excepting in the Pilgrim's Progress. The language
+is so homely, that one is not aware of the poetical cast of the
+thoughts; and both together form such a reality, that the parable and
+the romance alike remain fixed on the mind like truth. And what is
+truth? Surely not the mere outward acts of vulgar life; but rather the
+moral and intellectual perceptions by which our judgment, and actions,
+and motives, are directed. Then, are the wanderings of Christiana and
+Mercy, and the sufferings of the shipwrecked mariner, true in the right
+sense of the word truth? True as the lofty creations of Milton, and the
+embodied visions of Michael Angelo; because they have their basis and
+their home in the heart, and soul, and understanding of man.</p>
+
+<p>But we are once more upon the ocean, and our young people are again
+observing the stars, and measuring the distances of the planets. I
+grieve that one of the most promising of them is now an inmate in my
+cabin, in a very delicate state of health.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday we found soundings, which indicated the neighbourhood
+of the Abrolhos, and lay-to all night, that we might ascertain the exact
+position of those dangerous shoals; which, at the distance of three
+leagues, bearing N. W. by W., appeared like one long ragged island to
+the westward, and two smaller very low to the east.</p>
+
+<p>The banks extend very far out to the eastward. There is a deep passage
+between them and the mainland. With a little attention, a most
+profitable fishery might be established here.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="f" id="f"></a><img src="images/020.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>Rio de Janeiro, Saturday, December 15th, 1821</i>.&mdash;Nothing that I have
+ever seen is comparable in beauty to this bay. Naples, the Firth of
+Forth, Bombay harbour, and Trincomalee, each of which I thought perfect
+in their beauty, all must yield to this, which surpasses each in its
+different way. Lofty mountains, rocks of clustered columns, luxuriant
+wood, bright flowery islands, green banks, all mixed with white
+buildings; each little eminence crowned with its church or fort; ships
+at anchor or in motion; and innumerable boats flitting about in such a
+delicious climate,&mdash;combine to render Rio de Janeiro the most enchanting
+scene that imagination can conceive. We anchored first close to a small
+island, called Villegagnon, about two miles from the entrance of the
+harbour. That island, however small, was the site of the first colony
+founded by the Frenchman Villegagnon, under the patronage of Coligny,
+whom he betrayed. The admiral had intended it as a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots; but when Villegagnon had, by his means, formed the
+settlement, he began to persecute them also: the colony fell into decay,
+and became an easy conquest to Mem de Sa, the Portuguese captain-general
+of Brazil.<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a></p>
+
+<p>We moved from this station to one more commodious nearer the town, and
+higher up the harbour, towards the afternoon, which soon became so
+rainy, that I gave up all hopes of getting ashore. I was really
+disappointed to find that my excellent friend, the Hon. Capt. S. had
+left the station with his frigate before we arrived; I had, however, the
+pleasure of receiving a kind letter from him, and he had left me a copy
+of the great Spanish dictionary. Nobody that has always lived at home,
+can tell the value of a kindness like this in a foreign land.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, 16th</i>.&mdash;I had the pleasure of seeing on board Mr. W. May, who
+has long been a resident in Brazil, and with whom I had spent many happy
+hours in early life. The pleasure such meetings give is of the purest
+and wholesomest nature. It quiets the passions by its own tranquillity;
+and, in recalling all the innocent and amiable feelings of youth, makes
+us almost forget those harsher emotions which intercourse with the
+world, and the operation of interest, passion, or suffering have raised.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, 17th</i>.&mdash;By the assistance of some friends ashore, we have
+procured a comfortable house in one of the suburbs of Rio, called the
+Catete, from the name of a little river which runs through it into the
+sea. To this house I have brought my poor suffering midshipman,
+Langford; and trust that free air, moderate exercise, and a milk diet,
+will restore him. We have been visited by several persons, who all
+appear hospitable and kind, particularly the acting consul-general, Col.
+Cunningham, and his lady.</p>
+
+<p><i>December 18th</i>.&mdash;I have begun house-keeping on shore. We find
+vegetables and poultry very good, but not cheap; fruit is very good and
+cheap; butcher's meat cheap, but very bad: there is a monopolist
+butcher, and no person may even kill an animal for his own use without
+permission paid for from that person; consequently, as there is no
+competition, he supplies the market as he pleases.<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a> The beef is so
+bad, that it can hardly be used even for soup meat, three days out of
+four; and that supplied to the ships is at least as bad: mutton is
+scarce and bad: pork very good and fine; it is fed principally on
+mandioc and maize, near the town; that from a distance has the advantage
+of sugar cane. Fish is not so plentiful as it ought to be, considering
+the abundance that there is on the whole coast, but it is extremely
+good; oysters, prawns, and crabs are as good as in any part of the
+world. The wheaten bread used in Rio is chiefly made of American flour,
+and is, generally speaking, exceedingly good. Neither the captaincy of
+Rio, nor those to the north, produce wheat; but in the high lands of St.
+Paul's, and the Minas Geraes, and in the southern provinces, a good deal
+is cultivated, and with great success. The great article of food here is
+the mandioc meal, or farinha; it is made into thin broad cakes as a
+delicacy, but the usual mode of eating it is dry: when at the tables of
+the rich, it is used with every dish of which they eat, as we take
+bread; with the poor, it has every form&mdash;porridge, brose, bread; and no
+meal is complete without it: next to mandioc, the feijoam or dry
+kidney-bean, dressed in every possible way, but most frequently stewed
+with a small bit of pork, garlic, salt, and pimento, is the favourite
+food; and for dainties, from the noble to the slave, sweetmeats of every
+description, from the most delicate preserves and candies to the
+coarsest preparations of treacle, are swallowed wholesale.</p>
+
+<p>We have hired a horse for our invalid, and I have borrowed one for
+myself. These animals are rather pretty at Rio, but far from strong;
+they are fed on maize and capim, or Guinea grass, which was introduced
+of late years into Brazil, and thrives prodigiously: it is cultivated by
+planting the joints; the stem and leaves are as large as those of
+barley; it grows sometimes to the height of six or seven feet, and the
+flower is a large loose pannicle. The quantity necessary for each horse
+per day costs about eightpence, and his maize as much more. The common
+horses here sell for from twenty to one hundred dollars; the fine Buenos
+Ayres horses fetch a much higher price. Mules are generally used for
+carriages, being much hardier, and more capable of bearing the summer
+heat.</p>
+
+<p><i>December 19th</i>.&mdash;I walked by the side of Langford's horse up one of the
+little valleys at the foot of the Corcorado: it is called the
+Laranjeiros, from the numerous orange trees which grow on each side of
+the little stream that beautifies and fertilises it. Just at the
+entrance to that valley, a little green plain stretches itself on either
+hand, through which the rivulet runs over its stony bed, and affords a
+tempting spot to groups of washerwomen of all hues, though the greater
+number are black; and they add not a little to the picturesque effect of
+the scene: they generally wear a red or white handkerchief round the
+head; and a full-plaited mantle tied over one shoulder, and passed under
+the opposite arm, with a full petticoat, is a favourite dress. Some wrap
+a long cloth round them, like the Hindoos; and some wear an ugly
+European frock, with a most ungraceful sort of bib tied before them.
+Round the washerwoman's plain, hedges of acacia and mimosa fence the
+gardens of plantains, oranges, and other fruits which surround every
+villa; and beyond these, the coffee plantations extend far up the
+mountain, whose picturesque head closes the scene. The country-houses
+here are neither large nor magnificent; but they are decorated with
+verandas, and have often a handsome flight of steps up to the
+dwelling-house of the master, beneath which are either store-houses, or
+the habitations of the slaves: they have all a gateway, large and
+handsome, whatever the house may be; and that gateway generally leads to
+at least one walk where every kind of flower is cultivated. Brazil is
+particularly rich in splendid creeping flowers and shrubs; and these are
+mingled with the orange and lemon blossoms, and the jasmine and rose
+from the East, till the whole is one thicket of beauty and fragrance. I
+scarcely know whether my invalid or myself enjoyed the morning most. A
+few more such, and I should think all sickness must disappear.</p>
+
+<p><i>December 20th.</i>&mdash;Spent in paying and receiving visits in the
+neighbourhood. The houses are built a good deal like those of the south
+of Europe: there is generally a court, on one side of which is the
+dwelling-house, and the others are formed by the offices and garden.
+Sometimes the garden is immediately close to the house, and in the
+suburbs this is generally the case. In town, very few houses have the
+luxury of a garden at all. These gardens are rather like oriental
+flower-plots, but they assimilate well with the climate. The flowers of
+the parterres of Europe grow by the side of the gayer plants and shrubs
+of the country, shaded by the orange, banana, bread-fruit (now nearly
+naturalised here,) and the palms, between straight alleys of limes, over
+whose heads the African melia waves its lilac blossoms; and on the
+raised water channels, china vases are placed, filled with aloes and
+tuberoses, and here and there a statue intermixed. In these gardens
+there are occasionally fountains and seats under the trees, forming
+places of no undelightful rest in this hot climate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, December 21st.</i>&mdash;Mr. Hayne, one of the commissioners of the
+slave trade commission, and his sister, having proposed a party to see
+the botanic gardens, we set off soon after daylight; and drove to
+their house on the bay of Boto Fogo, perhaps the most beautiful spot in
+the neighbourhood of Rio, rich as it is in natural beauty; and its
+beauty is increased by the numerous and pretty country-houses which now
+surround it. These have all grown up since the arrival of the court from
+Lisbon; before that time, this lovely spot was only inhabited by a few
+fishermen and gipsies, with, it might be, a villa or two on the sloping
+banks by the fruit gardens. Beyond the bay, we drove through a beautiful
+lane to the Lake of Rodrigo de Freitas: it is nearly circular, and about
+five miles in circumference; it is surrounded by mountains and forests,
+except where a short sandy bar affords an occasional outlet to the sea,
+when the lake rises so high as to threaten inconvenience to the
+surrounding plantations. It is impossible to conceive any thing richer
+than the vegetation down to the very water's edge around the lake.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="larang" id="larang"></a><a href="images/010.png"><img src="images/010tb.png" alt="Larangeiros." /><br />
+Larangeiros.</a></p>
+
+<p>We were to breakfast at the gardens, but as the weather is now hot, we
+resolved first to walk round them. They are laid out in convenient
+squares, the alleys being planted on either side with a very
+quick-growing nut tree, brought from Bencoolen originally, now
+naturalised here. The nut is as good as the filbert, and larger than the
+walnut, and yields abundance of oil; the leaf is about the size, and not
+unlike the shape, of that of the sycamore. The timber also is useful.
+The quick growth of this tree is unexampled among timber trees, and its
+height and beauty distinguish it from all others. The hedges between the
+compartments are of a shrub which I should have taken for myrtle, but
+that the leaves though firm are not fragrant. This garden was destined
+by the King for the cultivation of the oriental spices and fruits, and
+above all, of the tea plant, which he obtained, together with several
+families accustomed to its culture, from China. Nothing can be more
+thriving than the whole of the plants. The cinnamon, camphor, nutmeg,
+and clove, grow as well as in their native soil. The bread-fruit
+produces its fruit in perfection, and such of the oriental fruits as
+have been brought here ripen as well as in India. I particularly
+remarked the jumbo malacca, from India, and the longona (<i>Euphoria
+Longona</i>), a dark kind of lechee from China. I was disappointed to find
+no collection of the indigenous plants. However, so much has been done
+as to give reasonable hopes of farther improvement, when the political
+state of the country shall be quiet enough to permit attention to these
+things.</p>
+
+<p>The stream that waters the garden flows through a lovely valley, where
+the royal powder-mills are situated; but being fearful of too much
+exertion for Langford we put off visiting them to another day, and
+returned to the garden gate to breakfast. His Majesty John VI. built a
+small house there, with three or four rooms, to accommodate the royal
+party, when they visited the gardens. Our breakfast was prepared in the
+veranda of that house, from whence we had a charming view of the lake,
+with the mountains and woods,&mdash;the ocean, with three little islands that
+lie off the lake; and in the fore-ground a small chapel<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> and village,
+at the extremity of a little smooth green plain.</p>
+
+<p>After waiting with our agreeable and well-informed friends till the
+sea-breeze set in, we returned part of the way along the lake, and then
+ascended to the parsonage of Nossa Senhora da Cabe&ccedil;a, where we were
+joined by several other persons who had come to dine there with us. The
+Padre Manoel Gomez received us very kindly, and our pic-nic was spread
+in the ample veranda of his parsonage. Behind the veranda three small
+rooms served for sleeping-room, kitchen, and pantry. Half a dozen small
+cottages in the field behind contain the healthy-looking negroes who are
+employed in his coffee-grounds, and a swarm of children of every shade,
+between black and white. On a little eminence in the midst of these
+stands the chapel of Our Lady, which is the parish church of a large
+district. It is exceedingly small; but serves as the place where the
+sacraments are administered, and the licences granted for marriages,
+burials, and christenings. The owners of estates have generally private
+chapels, where daily mass is performed for the benefit of their own
+people; so that the parish church is only applied to on the
+above-mentioned occasions. About a stone's throw behind the chapel, a
+clear rivulet runs rapidly down the mountain, leaping from rock to rock,
+in a thousand little cascades, and forming, here and there, delightful
+baths. Nor is it without its inhabitants, which increase the simple
+luxuries of the Padre's table. He tells me the crawfish in his stream
+are better than any in the neighbourhood; the water itself is pure,
+light, and delicate.</p>
+
+<p>At length all our friends had assembled, and we returned to the veranda
+to dine. To judge by the materials of the feast, so blended were the
+productions of every climate that we could scarcely have pronounced in
+what part of the world we were, had not the profusion of ananas and
+plantains, compared with the small quantity of apples and peaches,
+reminded us of it. As is usual on such occasions, the oldest inhabitants
+of Brazil praised most what came from afar; while <i>we</i> all gave the
+preference to the productions of the country.</p>
+
+<p>I was soon drawn away from the table by the beauty of the prospect,
+which I endeavoured to sketch. The coffee plantations are the only
+cultivated grounds hereabouts; and they are so thickly set with orange
+trees, lemons, and other tall shrubs, that they form in appearance
+rather a variety in the woods, than that mixture of cultivated with wild
+ground, which might be looked for so near a large city, where we expect
+to see the labour of man encroaching in some degree on the wild beauties
+of nature. But here vegetation is so luxuriant, that even the pruned and
+grafted tree springs up like the native of the forest.</p>
+
+<p>As every body was determined to be pleased, we all felt sorry when it
+was time to separate; but Burns has made all the reflections one can
+make on breaking up a pleasant party&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Pleasures are like poppies spread,&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">You seize the flower, the bloom is shed;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or like the snow-falls in the river,&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A moment white, then lost for ever;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or like the rainbow's fleeting form,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Evanishing amid the storm;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or like the borealis race,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That flit ere you can point their place.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">No man can tether time or tide:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The hour approaches,&mdash;<i>we</i> must ride."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And so we did.&mdash;We walked down to the foot of the hill, and each took
+his or her several conveyance; Colonel and Mrs. Cunningham their
+comfortable English chariot, Mr. and Miss Hayne their pretty curricle,
+and I my Rio caleche or <i>sege</i>,&mdash;a commodious but ugly carriage, very
+heavy, but well enough adapted to the rough roads between the garden and
+the town. The gentlemen all rode, and most of us carried home something.
+Fruit and flowers attracted some; Langford got a number of diamond
+beetles, and a magnificent butterfly, and I a most inadequate sketch of
+the scene from the Padre's house.</p>
+
+<p><i>December 27th.</i>&mdash;Since the jaunt to the botanical gardens, some of our
+invalids have been gaining ground: others who were well have become
+invalids, and I have done nothing but ride about or talk with them, and
+look at the beautiful views of the neighbourhood, and get a little
+better acquainted with the inhabitants; of whom the most amusing, so far
+as I have yet seen, are certainly the negroes, who carry about the fruit
+and vegetables for sale. The midshipmen have made friends with some of
+them. One of them has become quite a friend in the house; and after he
+has sold his master's fruit, earns a small gratuity for himself, by his
+tales, his dances, and his songs. His tribe, it seems, was at war with a
+neighbouring king, and he went out to fight when quite a boy, was taken
+prisoner, and sold. This is probably the story of many: but our friend
+tells it with action and emphasis, and shows his wounds, and dances his
+war dance, and shouts his wild song, till the savage slave becomes
+almost a sublime object. I have been for an hour to-night at a very
+different scene, a ball given by Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;, a respectable English
+merchant. The Portuguese and Brazilian ladies are decidedly superior in
+appearance to those of Bahia; they look of higher caste: perhaps the
+residence of the court for so many years has polished them. I cannot
+say the men partake of the advantage; but I cannot yet speak Portuguese
+well enough to dare to pronounce what either men or women really are. As
+to the English, what can I say? They are very like all one sees at home,
+in their rank of life; and the ladies, very good persons doubtless,
+would require Miss Austin's pen to make them interesting. However, as
+they appear to make no pretensions to any thing but what they are, to me
+they are good-humoured, hospitable, and therefore pleasing.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, 31st Dec. 1822</i>.&mdash;I went to town for the first time; our road
+lay through the suburb of the Catete for about half a mile. Some
+handsome houses are situated on either hand, and the spaces between are
+filled with shops, and small houses inhabited by the families of the
+shopkeepers in town. We then came to the hill called the Gloria, from
+the name of the church dedicated to N.S. da Gloria, on the eminence
+immediately overlooking the sea. The hill is green, and wooded and
+studded with country-houses. It is nearly insulated; and the road passes
+between it and another still higher, just where a most copious stream
+issues from an aqueduct (built, I think, by the Conde de Lavradio), and
+brings health and refreshment to this part of the town from the
+neighbouring mountains. Farther on, after passing the beach of the
+Gloria, we turned to the left, and entered the new part of that town
+through the arches of the great aqueduct built in 1718 by the viceroy
+Albuquerque. This supplies four copious fountains. The largest is the
+Carioca<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>, near the convent of Sant Antonio; it has twelve mouths, and
+is most picturesque in itself: it is constantly surrounded by slaves,
+with their water-barrels, and by animals drinking. Just beyond are
+troughs of granite, where a crowd of washerwomen are constantly
+employed; and over against these, benches are placed, on which there are
+constantly seated new negroes for sale. The fountain of the Marecas is
+opposite to the public gardens, and near the new barracks; and, besides
+the spouts for water for the inhabitants, there are two troughs always
+full for the animals. The third is a very handsome one, in the palace
+square; and the fourth, called the Mouro, I did not see. The aqueduct
+is of brick, and is supported on two ranges of arches across the valley
+between two of the five hills of the city. The public buildings at Rio
+have nothing very remarkable about them. Even the churches present no
+architectural beauty, and owe the good effect they have in the general
+view to their size and situation. There are seven parish churches, and
+numerous chapels dependent on each. The first and eldest parish is that
+of St. Sebastian; the church dedicated to whom is the royal chapel, the
+only one I saw to-day. It is handsome within, richly gilt, and the
+pictures on the ceiling are far from contemptible; but I cannot praise
+that of the altar-piece, where Our Lady is covering with her cloak the
+Queen Dona Maria, and all the royal family, on their arrival in Brazil.
+The choir is served in a manner that would not disgrace Italy. I
+attended at vespers, and have seldom been more gratified with the music
+of the evening service. This the chapel owes to the residence of the
+royal family, whose passion and talent for music are hereditary.
+Adjoining to this chapel is the church and convent of the Carmelites,
+which forms part of the palace; and within which is the royal library of
+70,000 volumes, where on all days, except holidays, the public are
+admitted to study from nine till one o'clock in the forenoon, and from
+four o'clock till sunset. This part of the palace occupies one side of a
+handsome square: the palace itself fills up another; a third has private
+houses, built uniformly with the palace, besides the fish-market; and
+the fourth is open to the sea. The water-edge is faced with a handsome
+granite pier and steps, the blocks of which are bolted with copper. In
+the centre of the pier there is a fountain, supplied from the aqueduct
+of Albuquerque; and altogether the appearance of the palace square is
+extremely handsome. We went thence into a street behind it, and saw the
+front of the senate-house, which is connected with the palace, and the
+cemetery of the Carmelite church, which is a prettier thing than
+church-yards usually are. In the centre of a small quadrangle there is a
+cross, and by it a young cypress tree: all around there are flowers, and
+sweet herbs, and porcelain vases, containing roses and aloes placed on
+little pedestals and on a broad low wall that surrounds the square. I
+looked at first in vain for graves; at length I observed on these low
+walls, and on the higher ones in the outer circle, indications of
+arches, each being numbered. These are the places for the dead, who are
+walled up there with quick-lime; and, at a certain period, the bones and
+ashes are removed to make room for others. At the time of removal, if
+the dead has a friend who wishes it, the remains are collected in urns
+or other receptacles, and placed in a building appropriated for them, or
+where the friend pleases; otherwise they go to the common receptacle,
+and perish totally by the addition of more quick-lime. This is, I doubt
+not, the wholesomest way of disposing of the dead; and, even to the
+sense, is better than the horrid burials at Bahia, where they must
+infect the air. But there seems to me so little feeling in thus getting
+rid at once of the remains of that which has once been dear to us, that
+I went away in disgust.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="gloria" id="gloria"></a><a href="images/011.png"><img src="images/011tb.png" alt="Rio from the Gloria Hill" /><br />
+Rio from the Gloria Hill.</a></p>
+
+<p>The city of Rio is more like an European city than either Bahia or
+Pernambuco; the houses are three or four stories high, with projecting
+roofs, and tolerably handsome. The streets are narrow, few being wider
+than that of the Corso at Rome, to which one or two bear a resemblance
+in their general air, and especially on days of festivals, when the
+windows and balconies are decorated with crimson, yellow, or green
+damask hangings. There are two very handsome squares, besides that of
+the palace. One, formerly the Ro&ccedil;a, is now that of the Constitu&ccedil;a&otilde;, to
+which the theatre, some handsome barracks and fine houses, behind which
+the hills and mountains tower up on two sides, give a very noble
+appearance. The other, the Campo de Santa Anna, is exceedingly
+extensive<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>, but unfinished. Two of the principal streets run across
+it, from the sea-side to the extremity of the new town, nearly a league,
+and new and wide streets are stretching out in every direction. But I
+was too tired with going about in the heat of the day to do more than
+take a cursory view of these things, and could not even persuade myself
+to look at the new fountain which is supplied by a new aqueduct.</p>
+
+<p>There is in the city an air of bustle and activity quite agreeable to
+our European eyes; yet the Portuguese all take their siesta after
+dinner. The negroes, whether free blacks or slaves, look cheerful and
+happy at their labour. There is such a demand for them, that they find
+full employment, and of course good pay, and remind one here as little
+as possible of their sad condition, unless, indeed, one passes the
+street of the Vallongo; then the slave-trade comes in all its horrors
+before one's eyes. On either hand are magazines of new slaves, called
+here <i>peices</i>; and there the wretched creatures are subject to all the
+miseries of a new negro's life, scanty diet, brutal examination, and the
+lash.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, January 1st, 1823</i>.&mdash;I went to pay a second visit to an
+illustrious exile, Count Hogendorp, one of the Emperor Napoleon's
+generals: my first had been accidental. One morning last week, riding
+with two of our young midshipmen, we came to a pleasant-looking cottage,
+high on the side of the Corcovado, and at the door we saw a very
+striking figure, to whom I instantly apologized for intruding on his
+grounds, saying that we were strangers, and had come there accidentally.
+He instantly, with a manner that showed him to be no common person,
+welcomed us; asked our names, and on being told them, said he had heard
+of us; and, but for his infirmities, would have called on us. He
+insisted on our dismounting, as a shower was coming on, and taking
+shelter with him. By this time I perceived it was Count Hogendorp, and
+asked him if I had guessed rightly. He answered, yes; and added a few
+words, signifying that his master's servants, even in exile, carried
+that with them which distinguished them from other men.</p>
+
+<p>The Count is the wreck of a once handsome man: he has not lost his
+martial air: he is tall, but not too thin; his grey eyes sparkle with
+intelligence, and his pure and forcible language is still conveyed in a
+clear well-toned voice, though a little the worse for age. He ushered us
+into a spacious veranda, where he passes most of the day, and which is
+furnished with sofas, chairs, and tables: he then ordered his servant to
+bring breakfast; we had coffee, milk, and fresh butter, all the produce
+of his own farm; and, as we sat, we saw the showers passing by and
+under us across the valley, which leads the eye to the bay below. The
+General entered frankly into conversation, and during breakfast, and
+while the shower lasted, spoke almost incessantly of his imperial
+master. Early in life the Count had entered the army, a soldier of
+fortune, under Frederick of Prussia. On his return to his native
+country, Holland, he was employed by the States, successively, as
+governor of the eastern part of Java, and as envoy to one of the German
+courts. During his residence in Java, he had visited many of the English
+settlements on the main land of India, and had learned English, which he
+spoke well.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="cottage" id="cottage"></a><a href="images/012.png"><img src="images/012tb.png" alt="image" /><br />From Count Hoggendorps Cottage.</a></p>
+
+<p>On the annexation of Holland to France, he entered the French service
+with the rank of full colonel. He was always a great favourite with
+Napoleon, to whom his honesty and disinterestedness in money matters
+seem to have been valuable, in proportion as these qualities were scarce
+among his followers. The Count's affection for him is excessive, I
+should have said unaccountable, had he not shown me a letter written to
+him by the emperor's own hand, on the death of his child, in which,
+besides much general kindness, there is even a touch of tenderness I had
+not looked for. During the disastrous expedition to Russia, Hogendorp
+was entrusted with the government of Poland, and kept his court at
+Wilna. His last public service was performed in the defence of Hamburgh,
+where he was lieutenant governor. He would fain have attended the
+emperor into exile; but that not being allowed, he came hither, where,
+with the greatest economy, and, I believe, some assistance from the
+prince, who has great respect for him, he lives chiefly on the produce
+of his little farm.</p>
+
+<p>Most of these particulars I learnt from himself, while resting and
+sheltered from the rain, which lasted nearly an hour. He then showed me
+his house, which is small indeed, consisting of only three rooms,
+besides the veranda; his study, where a few books, two or three casts
+from antique bas reliefs, and some maps and prints, indicate the
+retirement of a gentleman; his bedroom, the walls of which, with a
+capricious taste, are painted black, and on that sombre ground,
+skeletons of the natural size, in every attitude of glee, remind one of
+Holbein's Dance of Death; and a third room occupied by barrels of orange
+wine, and jars of liqueur made of the grumaxama, at least as agreeable
+as cherry brandy which it resembles, the produce of his farm; and the
+sale of which, together with his coffee, helps out his slender income.</p>
+
+<p>The General, as he loves to be called, led us round his garden, and
+displayed with even fondness, his fruits and his flowers, extolled the
+climate, and only blamed the people, for the neglect and want of
+industry, which wastes half the advantages God has given them. On
+returning to the house, he introduced to me his old Prussian servant,
+who has seen many a campaign with him, and his negroes, whom he freed on
+purchasing them: he has induced the woman to wear a nose jewel, after
+the fashion of Java, which he seems to remember with particular
+pleasure. I was sorry to leave the count, but was afraid some alarm
+might be felt at home concerning us, and therefore bade him adieu.</p>
+
+<p>This evening I paid him another visit, and found him resting after
+dinner in his veranda. We had a good deal of conversation concerning the
+state of this country, from which, with prudence, every thing good may
+be hoped; and then the Count told me he was engaged in writing his
+memoirs, of which he showed me a part, telling me he meant to publish
+them in England. I have no doubt they will be written with fidelity, and
+will furnish an interesting chapter in the history of Napoleon. I was
+sorry to see the old gentleman suffering a good deal; and his age and
+infirmities seem to threaten a speedy termination to his active
+life.<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>January 8th, 1822.</i>&mdash;The only variety in my quiet life since the first,
+was afforded by a large and pleasant party at Miss Hayne's. There I saw
+abundance of jewels on the heads and necks of the elderly Portuguese
+ladies, and a good deal of beauty, and some grace, among the younger
+ones, whom I begin to understand pretty well. We had some good music,
+and there was a great deal of dancing, and not a little card-playing.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we left the house on shore, and are again at home on board the
+Doris, with all our invalids much better. Having settled every body
+comfortably, I went ashore to the opera, as it is the benefit night of a
+favourite musician, Rosquellas, whose name is known on both sides of the
+Atlantic. The theatre is very handsome; in size and proportion, some of
+our officers think it as large as the Haymarket, but I differ from them.
+It was opened on the 12th of October, 1813, the Prince Don Pedro's
+birth-day. The boxes are commodious, and I hear, that the unseen part of
+the theatre is comfortable for the actors, dressers, &amp;c.; but the
+machinery and decorations are deficient. The evening's amusements
+consisted of a very stupid Portuguese comedy, relieved between the acts
+by scenes from an opera of Rossini's by Rosquellas, after which, he
+wasted a great deal of fine playing on some very ugly music.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, January 9th.</i>&mdash;To-day is expected to be a day of much
+importance to the future fate of Brazil. But I must go back to the
+arrival of a message from the cortes at Lisbon, intimating to the Prince
+their pleasure, that he should forthwith repair to Europe, and begin his
+education, and proceed to travel incognito through Spain, France, and
+England. This message excited the most lively indignation not only in
+His Royal Highness, but in the Brazilians from one end of the kingdom to
+the other. The Prince is willing to obey the orders of his father and
+the cortes, at the same time he cannot but feel as a man the want of
+decency of the message, and being thus bid to go home; and especially
+forbidden to carry any guards with him, as it should seem, lest they
+might have contracted too much attachment for his person. The Brazilians
+regard this step as preliminary to removing from this country the courts
+of justice, which have for fourteen years been held here, and so
+removing causes to Lisbon, by which means, Brazil would be again reduced
+to the condition of a dependent colony instead of enjoying equal rights
+and privileges with the mother country, a degradation they are by no
+means inclined to submit to.</p>
+
+<p>The feelings of the people are sufficiently shown, in the address sent
+to the Prince, a few days ago, (24th of December,) from St. Paul's; as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"<span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p>
+
+<p>"We had already written to Your Royal Highness, before we received the
+extraordinary gazette of the 11th instant, by the last courier: and we
+had hardly fixed our eyes on the first decree of the Cortes concerning
+the organization of the governments of the provinces of Brazil, when a
+noble indignation fired our hearts: because we saw impressed on it a
+system of anarchy and slavery. But the second, in conformity to which
+Your Royal Highness is to go back to Portugal, in order to travel
+<i>incognito</i> only through Spain, France, and England, inspired us with
+horror.</p>
+
+<p>"They aim at no less than disuniting us, weakening us, and in short,
+leaving us like miserable orphans, tearing from the bosom of the great
+family of Brazil the only common father who remained to us, after they
+had deprived Brazil of the beneficent founder of the kingdom, Your Royal
+Highness's august sire. They deceive themselves; we trust in God, who is
+the avenger of injustice; He will give us courage, and wisdom.</p>
+
+<p>"If, by the 21st article of the basis of the constitution, which we
+approve and swear to because it is founded on universal and public
+right, the deputies of Portugal were bound to agree that the
+constitution made at Lisbon could then be obligatory on the Portuguese
+resident in that kingdom; and, that, as for those in the other three
+parts of the world, it should only be binding when their legitimate
+representatives should have declared such to be their will: How dare
+those deputies of Portugal, without waiting for those of Brazil,
+legislate concerning the most sacred interest of each province, and of
+the entire kingdom? How dare they split it into detached portions, each
+insulated, and without leaving a common centre of strength and union?
+How dare they rob Your Royal Highness of the lieutenancy, granted by
+Your Royal Highness's august father, the King? How dare they deprive
+Brazil of the privy council, the board of conscience, the court of
+exchequer, the board of commerce, the court of requests, and so many
+other recent establishments, which promised such future advantage? Where
+now shall the wretched people resort in behalf of their civil and
+judicial interests? Must they now again, after being for twelve years
+accustomed to judgment at hand, go and suffer, like petty colonists, the
+delays and chicanery of the tribunals of Lisbon, across two thousand
+leagues of ocean, where the sighs of the oppressed lose all life and all
+hope? Who would credit it, after so many bland, but deceitful
+expressions of reciprocal equality and future happiness!!!</p>
+
+<p>"In the session of the 6th of August last, the deputy of the Cortes,
+Pereira do Carmo, said, (and he spoke the truth,) that the constitution
+was the social compact, in which, were expressed and declared the
+conditions on which a nation might wish to constitute itself a body
+politic: and that the end of that constitution, is the general good of
+each individual, who is to enter into that social compact. How then
+dares a mere fraction of the great Portuguese nation, without waiting
+for the conclusion of this solemn national compact, attack the general
+good of the principal part of the same, and such is the vast and rich
+kingdom of Brazil; dividing it into miserable fragments, and, in a word,
+attempting to tear from its bosom the representative of the executive
+power, and to annihilate by a stroke of the pen, all the tribunals and
+establishments necessary to its existence and future prosperity? This
+unheard-of despotism, this horrible political perjury, was certainly not
+merited by the good and generous Brazil. But the enemies of order in the
+Cortes of Lisbon deceive themselves if they imagine that they can thus,
+by vain words and hollow professions, delude the good sense of the
+worthy Portuguese of both worlds.</p>
+
+<p>"Your Royal Highness will observe that, if the kingdom of Ireland,
+which makes part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, besides that it
+is infinitely small compared to the vast kingdom of Brazil, and is
+separated from England but by a narrow arm of the sea, which is passed
+in a few hours, yet possesses a governor-general or viceroy, who
+represents the executive power of the King of the United Kingdom, how
+can it enter the head of any one who is not either profoundly ignorant,
+or rashly inconsiderate, to pretend, that the vast kingdom of Brazil,
+should remain without a centre of activity, and without a representative
+of the executive power: and equally without a power to direct our
+troops, so as that they may operate with celerity and effect, to defend
+the state against any unforeseen attack of external enemies, or against
+internal disorders and factions, which might threaten public safety, or
+the reciprocal union of the provinces!</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, august Sir! It is impossible that the inhabitants of Brazil, who
+are honest, and who pride themselves on being men, particularly the
+Paulistas, should ever consent to such absurdity and such despotism.
+Yes, august Sir, Your Royal Highness must remain in Brazil, whatever may
+be the projects of the constituent Cortes, not only for the sake of our
+general good, but even for the sake of the future prosperity and
+independence of Portugal itself. If Your Royal Highness, which is not to
+be believed, were to obey the absurd and indecent decree of the 29th of
+September, besides losing, in the world, the dignity of a man and of a
+prince, by becoming the slave of a small number of factious men, you
+would also have to answer before heaven for the rivers of blood which
+would assuredly inundate Brazil on account of your absence: because its
+inhabitants, like raging tigers, would surely remember the supine sloth
+in which the ancient despotism kept them buried, and in which a new
+constitutional Machiavelism aims even now to retain them.</p>
+
+<p>"We therefore entreat Your Royal Highness with the greatest fervour,
+tenderness, and respect to delay your return to Europe, where they wish
+to make you travel as a pupil surrounded by, tutors and spies: We
+entreat you to confide boldly in the love and fidelity of your
+Brazilians, and especially of your Paulistas, who are all ready to shed
+the last drop of their blood, and to sacrifice their fortunes, rather
+than lose the adored Prince in whom they have placed their well-founded
+hopes of national happiness and honour. Let Your Royal Highness wait at
+least for the deputies named by this province, and for the magistracy of
+this capital, who will as soon as possible present to Your Highness our
+ardent desires and firm resolutions; and deign to receive them, and to
+listen to them, with the affection and attention, which your Paulistas
+deserve from you.</p>
+
+<p>"May God preserve Your Royal Highness's august person many years.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 2%;">"From the Government House of St. Paul's, 24th Dec. 1821.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">John Carlos Augusto de Oeyenhausen, President.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Sylva, V. President.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Martim Francisco de Andrada, Secretary.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lazaro Jose Gon&ccedil;alves, Secretary.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Miguel Jos&eacute; de Oliveria Pinto, Secretary.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Manoel Rodrigues Jordaen.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Francisco Ignacio de Souza Guimaies.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Joao Ferreira de Oleveira Bueno.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Antonio Leite Pereira de Gama Lobo.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Daniel Pedro Muller.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Andre da Silva Gomes.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Francisco de Paulo e Oliveira.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Antonio Maria Quartini."<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>This letter to the Prince expresses the sentiments of all the southern
+part of Brazil, and to a certain degree those of the northern
+captaincies also. The latter are certainly as averse as the former to
+the removal of the courts of justice to Lisbon, but they would prefer a
+more northern city for the capital; while here, there is a wish among a
+considerable number of persons to remove the capital to St. Paul's, on
+account of its safety, and its neighbourhood to the mines, where the
+greatest proportion of the riches, industry, and population of Brazil is
+situated. His Royal Highness has not yet expressed his determination.
+The officers of the Lisbon troops talk loudly of his being obliged to do
+his duty, and obey the mandate of the Cortes. The Brazilians are earnest
+in their hopes that he may stay, and there are even some that look
+forward to his declaring openly for the independence of this country.
+Whatever his resolution may be, it is feared that there will be much
+disturbance, if not a civil war. Our English merchants are calling
+meetings, I believe for the purpose of requesting this ship to remain,
+at least until one of equal force shall arrive, fearing that their
+persons and property will not be safe, and every body looks a little
+anxious.</p>
+
+<p>10<i>th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday there was a meeting of the camara of Rio; and after a
+short consultation the members went in procession, accompanied by a
+great concourse of people, to the Prince, with a strong remonstrance
+against his leaving the country, and an earnest entreaty that he would
+remain among his faithful people. His Royal Highness received them
+graciously, and replied, that since it appeared to be the wish of all,
+and for the good of all, he would remain. This declaration was received
+with shouts of enthusiasm, which were answered by the discharge of
+artillery, and every mark of public rejoicing.</p>
+
+<p>The day as usual, on any occasion of public interest, was ended at the
+opera, but I unfortunately could not get ashore; however some of the
+officers went. The house was illuminated. The Prince and Princess
+appeared in full dress in the king's box, which is in the centre of the
+house. They were received with enthusiasm by the people, the national
+hymn was sung, and between the acts of the play the people called on
+several of their favourite orators to address the Prince and people, on
+the event of the day. This call was obeyed by several speakers, and some
+of their addresses were printed and handed about the theatre; the best,
+or at least the most applauded, was the following by Bernardo Carvalho.</p>
+
+<p>"It is now only necessary to exhort you to <span class="smcap">Union</span> and
+<span class="smcap">Tranquillity</span>!!!<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> Expressions truly sublime, and which contain the
+whole philosophy of politics. Without <span class="smcap">Union</span> you cannot be strong,
+without strength you cannot command <span class="smcap">Tranquillity</span>. Portuguese! Citizens!
+You have a Prince who speaks to you with kindness of your own work; who
+invites you to rally with him round the constitution; who recommends to
+you that moral force which embraces justice and is identified with
+reason, and which can alone accomplish the great work we have begun.
+To-day you burst the bonds which threatened you with suffocation. To-day
+you assume the true attitude of free men. But yet all is not done.
+Intrigue and discord, muttering furies, perhaps even now meditate fresh
+plans, and still endeavour to sow division, and to overthrow the
+trophies you have just raised to glory and to national honour. The same
+enthusiasm, ill directed, might produce the greatest crimes. Fellow
+citizens! <span class="smcap">Union</span> and <span class="smcap">Tranquillity</span>. The giddiness of party is unworthy of
+free men. Fulfil your duties. Yield to the gentle exhortation of your
+august Prince;... but in return say to him 'Sire! <span class="smcap">Energy</span> and <span class="smcap">Vigilance</span>.
+Energy to promote good,&mdash;Vigilance to prevent evil. The whole world has
+now its eyes fixed on you. The steps you are about to take, may place
+you in the temple of memory, or confound you among the number of weak
+princes, unworthy of the distinctions which adorn them. Perhaps you may
+influence the destinies of the whole world. Perhaps even Europe,
+anxiously and on tip-toe, reposes her hope upon you! <span class="smcap">Prince!</span> <span class="smcap">Energy</span> and
+<span class="smcap">Vigilance</span>. Glory is not incompatible with youth, and the hero of the
+26th February may become the hero of the 9th January. Unite yourself
+with a people which loves you, which offers you fortune, life,
+everything. Prince! how sweet is it to behold the cordial expansion of
+the feeling of free men! but how distressing to witness the withering in
+the bud of hopes so justly founded! Banish, Sire, for ever from Brazil,
+multiform flattery, hypocrisy of double face, discord with her viperous
+tongue. Listen to truth, submit to reason, attend to justice. Be your
+attributes frankness and loyalty. Let the constitution be the pole-star
+to direct you: without it there can be no happiness for you nor for us.
+Seek not to reign over slaves, who kiss the chains of ignominy. Rule
+over free hearts. So shall you be the image of the divinity among
+us;&mdash;so will you fulfil our hopes. <span class="smcap">Energy</span> and <span class="smcap">Vigilance</span>, and we will
+follow your precept, <span class="smcap">Union</span> and <span class="smcap">Tranquillity</span>.'"</p>
+
+<p>A priest, one of the favourites of the people, was called on to speak
+repeatedly. The national hymn<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> was sung again and again, and the
+Prince and Princess, who were observed to be chiefly surrounded by
+Brazilian officers, were again loudly cheered. And everything in the
+city, which was brilliantly illuminated, went off in the utmost harmony.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more beautiful of the kind than such an illumination seen
+from the ship. The numerous forts at the entrance to the harbour, on the
+islands, and in the town, have each their walls traced in light, so they
+are like fairy fire-castles; and the scattered lights of the city and
+villages, connect them by a hundred little brilliant chains.</p>
+
+<p>To-day our friends the merchants are under fresh alarm, and have made a
+formal request to the captain to stay. With that petty spirit which
+passes for <i>diplomatic</i>, the deputy-consul and merchants, instead of
+saying what they are afraid of, only say, "Sir, we are afraid,
+circumstances make us so, and we hope you will stay till," &amp;c. &amp;c.; as
+much as to say, "You are answerable for evil, if it happens," although
+they are too much afraid of committing themselves to say why. I do not
+trouble myself now about their official reports, which I perceive are
+large sheets of paper, and large seals, without one word that might not
+be published on every church wall, for their milk and water tenor, but
+which I consider as absurd and mischievous, because they tend to excite
+distrust and alarm where no danger is. The truth is now, that there
+might be some cause of fear, if they would openly express it. The
+language of the Portuguese officers is most violent. They talk of
+carrying the Prince by main force to Lisbon, and so making him obey the
+Cortes in spite of the Brazilians; and both parties are so violent, that
+they will probably fight. In that fight there will doubtless be danger
+to foreign property; but why not say so? why not say such is the case?
+However, the wisest of the sons of men in modern times<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a>, has long ago
+set in the second place those who could not afford to be open and candid
+in matters of business; so <i>I</i> may leave them alone.</p>
+
+<p>11<i>th</i>.&mdash;I went ashore last night to the opera, as it was again a gala
+night, and hoped to have witnessed the reception of the Prince and
+Princess. The Visconde&ccedil;a do Rio Seco kindly invited me to her box, which
+was close to theirs; but, after waiting some time, notice arrived that
+the Prince was so busy writing to Lisbon, that he could not come. The
+double guard was withdrawn, and the play went on. I had, however, the
+pleasure of seeing the theatre illuminated, of hearing their national
+hymn, and of seeing the ladies better dressed than I had yet had
+occasion to do.</p>
+
+<p>There is a great deal of uneasiness to-day. The Portuguese
+commander-in-chief of the troops, General Avilez, has demanded and
+received his discharge. It is said, perhaps untruly, that his
+remonstrance to the Prince against his remaining here has been
+ungentlemanlike and indecent. I hear the troops will not consent to his
+removal, and they are particularly incensed that the choice of a
+successor should fall on General Curado, a Brazilian, who, it is said,
+will be called from St. Paul's to succeed Avilez. He is a veteran, who
+has commanded with distinction in all the campaigns on the southern
+frontier, and his actions are better known among his countrymen than
+those distant battles in Europe, on which the Portuguese officers of
+every rank are apt to pride themselves here, however slight the share
+they had in them, to the annoyance of the Brazilians.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th</i>.&mdash;Yesterday the military commission for the government of the
+army here was broke up, and Curada appointed commander-in-chief, and
+minister of war. The Portuguese General Avilez made his appearance at
+the barracks of the European soldiers to take leave of them; they were
+under arms to receive him, and vowed not to part with him, or to obey
+another commander, and were with difficulty reduced to such order as to
+promise tolerable tranquillity for the day at least. It is said, that
+as it had been understood that they had expressed some jealousy, because
+the guard of honour at the opera-house had been for the two last
+evenings composed of Brazilians, the Prince sent to the Portuguese
+barracks for the guard of last night, but that they refused to go;
+saying, that as His Royal Highness was so partial to the Brazilians, he
+had better continue to be guarded by them. I am not sure this is true,
+but from the circumstances of the day it is not improbable.</p>
+
+<p>The opera-house was again brilliantly lighted. The Prince and Princess
+were there, and had been received as well as on the ninth, when, at
+about eleven o'clock, the Prince was called out of his box, and informed
+that bodies of from twenty to thirty of the Portuguese soldiers were
+parading the streets, breaking windows and insulting passengers in their
+way from barrack to barrack, where everything wore the appearance of
+determined mutiny. At the same time, a report of these circumstances
+having reached the house, the spectators began to rise for the purpose
+of going home; when the Prince, having given such orders as were
+necessary, returned to the box, and going with the Princess, then near
+her confinement, to the front, he addressed the people, assured them
+that there was nothing serious, that he had already given orders to send
+the riotous soldiers, who had been quarrelling with the blacks, back to
+their barracks, and entreated them not to leave the theatre and increase
+the tumult, by their presence in the street, but remain till the end of
+the piece, as he meant to do, when he had no doubt all would be quiet.
+The coolness and presence of mind of the Prince, no doubt, preserved the
+city from much confusion and misery. By the time the opera was over the
+streets were sufficiently clear to permit every one to go home in
+safety.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the Portuguese troops, to the number of seven hundred, had
+marched up to the Castle-hill, commanding the principal streets in the
+town, and had taken with them four pieces of artillery, and threatened
+to sack the town. The field-pieces belonging to the Brazilians, which
+had remained in the town after the 26th of February, had been sent to
+the usual station of the artillery, at the botanical gardens, no longer
+ago than last week, so they entertained no fear of artillery. But they
+were disappointed in their expectation of being joined by that part of
+the Portuguese force which was stationed at San Cristova&#335;. This amounted
+to about 500 men<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a>, who said the King had left them to attend on the
+person of the Prince, and they had nothing to do with anything else; a
+declaration that was looked on with suspicion by the Brazilians.</p>
+
+<p>While the Portuguese were taking up their new and threatening position,
+the Brazilians were not idle. Every horse and mule in the town was
+pressed, and expresses despatched to all the militia regiments, and
+other Brazilian troops, as well as to the head-quarters of the
+artillery. The Prince was most active; so that by four o'clock this
+morning (12th), he found himself at the head of a body of four thousand
+men, in the Campo de Santa Anna, not only ready, but eager for action;
+and though deficient in discipline, formidable from their numbers and
+determination.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese had by no means expected such promptness and decision;
+they had besides not taken provision to the hill, and they were
+convinced that it would be an easy matter to starve them, by means of
+the immense superiority of numbers in the Campo. They therefore prepared
+to obey an order which the Prince communicated to them early in the day,
+to remove from the city to Praya Grande, on the other side of the
+harbour, only conditioning to carry their arms with them. His Royal
+Highness wished to have put them instantly on board of transports, to be
+conveyed to Lisbon, but the port admiral reported that there was neither
+shipping nor provision ready for the purpose; and therefore they are to
+be quartered at Praya Grande, until such shall be provided.</p>
+
+<p>I went ashore with an officer as early as I could, chiefly for the
+purpose of seeing the troops in the Campo de Santa Anna. In consequence,
+however, of the press of horses and mules, it was sometime before I
+could get a chaise to convey me there, and it was much too hot to walk.
+At length, however, I procured one, and determined to call on the
+Visconde&ccedil;a of Rio Seco in my way, to offer her refuge in the frigate. We
+found her in a Brazilian dishabille, and looking harassed and anxious.
+She had remained in the theatre as long as the Prince last night, and
+had then hurried home to provide for the safety of her family and her
+jewels: her family she had despatched to her estate in the country; for
+the jewels, she had them all packed in small parcels, intending to
+escape with them herself in disguise to us, in case of a serious attack
+on the city; and she had left a quantity of valuable plate exposed in
+different parts of the house to occupy the soldiers on their first
+entrance. Everything, however, looks better now; and we assured her we
+had seen the first part of one of the Lisbon regiments ready to embark
+as we landed. We promised her, that on her making a signal from her
+house, or sending a message, she should have protection. She appears
+very apprehensive of evil from the liberation of the prisoners by the
+Brazilians during the night, and says, that there are some fears that
+the Portuguese will seize the forts on the other side, and hold them
+till the arrival of the reinforcements daily expected from Lisbon. This
+would, indeed, be disastrous; but I believe the apprehension to be ill
+founded.</p>
+
+<p>Having comforted my good friend as well as I could, we went on to the
+Campo, and found the Brazilians housed for the most part in some
+unfinished buildings. The men, though slight, looked healthy, active,
+and full of spirit; their horses were the best I have seen in the
+country; and, it might be fancy, but they gave me the idea of men
+resolute in their purpose, and determined to guard their rights and
+their homes.</p>
+
+<p>The scene in the Campo presented all manner of varieties. Within the
+enclosure where the artillery was placed, all was gravity and
+business-like attention: the soldiers on the alert, and the officers in
+groups, canvassing the events of the preceding night, and the
+circumstances of the day; and here and there, both within and without
+the circle, an orator was stationed with his group of auditors around
+him, listening to his political discussions, or patriotic harangues. In
+the open part of the Campo were straggling soldiers, or whole companies,
+escaped from the heated crowd of the enclosure: horses, mules, and
+asses, many of all lying down from sheer fatigue. In all directions,
+negroes were coming, laden with capim or maize for the horses, or
+bearing on their heads cool drink and sweetmeats for the men. In one
+corner, a group of soldiers, exhausted with travel and watching, lay
+asleep; in another, a circle of black boys were gambling: in short, all
+ways of beguiling the time while waiting for a great event might be
+seen; from those who silently and patiently expected the hour, in solemn
+dread of what the event might be, to those who, merely longing for
+action, filled up the interval with what might make it pass most
+lightly. I was well pleased with the view I had of the people in the
+Campo, and still better as the day wore away, for I staid sometime, to
+feel assured that all was to pass without bloodshed, beyond the two or
+three persons killed accidentally during the night.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the ship, we were stopped for some time in the palace
+square, by a great concourse of people assembled to witness the entrance
+of the first Brazilian guard into the palace, while the last Portuguese
+guard marched out, amid the loud huzzas of the people; and on reaching
+the stairs, where we were to embark, we found the last of one regiment,
+and the first of another, about to sail for the Praya Grande, so that
+the city may sleep in security to-night.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants generally, but especially the foreign merchants, are
+well pleased to see the Lisbon troops dismissed; for they have long been
+most tyrannically brutal to strangers, to negroes, and not unfrequently
+to Brazilians; and, for many weeks past, their arrogance has been
+disgusting to both prince and people.<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a></p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the city is melancholy enough: the shops are shut up,
+guards are parading the streets, and every body looks anxious. The
+shopkeepers are all employed as militia: they are walking about with
+bands and belts of raw hides over their ordinary clothes, but their
+arms and ammunition were all in good order, and excepting these and the
+English, I saw nobody at all out of doors.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th</i>.&mdash;Every thing seems quiet to-day. From the ship we see the rest
+of the troops going over to the Praya Grande. Yet there is necessarily a
+great deal of anxiety among all classes of persons. Some persons have
+sent some of their valuables on board the frigate, for safety; and a
+message, I do not know on what authority, arrived to know if the Prince
+and Princess, and family, could be received and protected on board.&mdash;The
+answer, of course, is, that though the ship must observe the strictest
+neutrality between the parties, yet that we are ready at once to receive
+and protect the Princess and children, and also, whenever he has reason
+to apprehend personal danger, the Prince himself. My cabin is therefore
+ready. I hope they will not be forced to come afloat. The more they can
+trust to the Brazilians the better for them, and for the cause of that
+independence which is now so inevitable, that the only question is
+whether it shall be obtained with or without bloodshed.</p>
+
+<p>We have determined to have a ball on board, the day after to-morrow,
+that the people may get acquainted with us,&mdash;and then if any thing
+occurs to render it advisable to take refuge with us, they will know who
+they are to come amongst.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th</i>.&mdash;The shops are open, and business going on as usual to-day. The
+Prince is granting discharges to both officers and men of the Portuguese
+regiments, who wish to remain in Brazil instead of returning to Europe.
+This is stigmatised by the Portuguese as <i>licensing desertion</i>, from the
+army of the King and Cortes; whatever they may call it, I am convinced
+that the measure tends to the present tranquillity of the capital. The
+Princess and children are gone to Santa Cruz, a country estate, formerly
+belonging to the Jesuits, now to the crown, fourteen leagues on the road
+towards St. Paul's.<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>15th</i>.&mdash;Our ball went off very well: we had more foreigners than
+English; and as there was excellent music from the opera-orchestra, and
+a great deal of dancing, the young people enjoyed it much. I should have
+done so also, but that Captain Graham was suffering with the gout so
+severely, that I could have wished to put off the dance. I had
+commissioned the Visconde&ccedil;a do Rio Seco and some other ladies to bring
+their Portuguese friends, which they did, and we had a number of pretty
+and agreeable women, and several gentlemanlike men, in addition to our
+English friends.</p>
+
+<p>A dance on ship-board is always agreeable and picturesque: there is
+something in the very contrast afforded by the furniture of the deck of
+a ship of war to the company and occupation of a ball that is striking.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The little warlike world within,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The well-reeved guns and netted canopy,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>all dressed with evergreens and flowers, waving over the heads of gay
+girls and their smiling partners, furnish forth combinations in which
+poetry and romance delight, and which one must be stoical indeed to
+contemplate without emotion. I never loved dancing myself, perhaps
+because I never excelled in it; but yet, a ball-room is to me a
+delightful place. There are happy faces, and hearts not the less happy
+for the little anxious palpitations that arise now and then, and
+curiosity, and hope, and all the amiable feelings of youth and nature;
+and if among it a little elderly gaiety mingles, and excites a smile, I,
+for my part, rather reverence the youth of heart which lives through the
+cares and vexations of this life, and can mingle in, without disturbing,
+the hilarity of youth.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th</i>.&mdash;Nothing remarkable yesterday or to-day, but the perfect quiet
+of the town. The Prince goes on discharging the soldiers.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th</i>.&mdash;This day the new ministers arrived from St. Paul's; the chief
+of whom in station, as in talent, is Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva.
+According to the opinion entertained of him by the people here, I should
+say that Cowper had described him, when he wrote</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i5">Great offices will have<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Great talents. And God gives to every man<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The virtue, temper, understanding, taste,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That lift him into life, and lets him fall<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Just in the niche he was ordained to fill.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To the deliverer of an injured land<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He gives a tongue to enlarge upon, a heart<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To feel, and courage to redress her wrongs.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>He had been sent early from Brazil to study at Coimbra, where he lay
+sick at the time of the King's departure from Lisbon; and afterwards,
+during the time of the French, he could not find means to return to his
+native country; but upon the first rising of the people in the districts
+round Oporto and Coimbra, he put himself at the head of the students of
+the university, in their successful resistance to Junot, and afterwards
+served in the campaign against Soult. When he returned to Lisbon, I
+believe, he there entered the regular army; for after bearing arms
+against Massena, I find that at the end of the war he had the rank of
+lieutenant-colonel, with which he returned to Brazil in 1819. But his
+whole time in Europe was not spent in warfare: he had travelled, and had
+become acquainted with several among the most distinguished characters
+in England, France, and Italy, and had contracted a particular esteem
+for Alfieri. The object of his travels was rather to see and learn what
+might be useful to his own country, than the mere pleasure of visiting
+different parts of the world; and I am told, that he has particularly
+attended to those branches of science which may improve the agriculture
+and the mining of Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>One of his brothers, Martin Francisco, is possessed of scarcely less
+talent than himself; and their family, their character, and the esteem
+in which they are held, add weight not only to their own interest, but
+to the government which employs them.</p>
+
+<p>The guards and patroles were doubled along the road, by which they and
+the veteran General Corado arrived, as it was feared the Portuguese, who
+since the 12th have been completely distinct from the Brazilians, might
+have impeded their progress. However, every thing was perfectly
+tranquil.</p>
+
+<p>20<i>th</i>.&mdash;The Aurora arrived from Pernambuco and Bahia, at both which
+places it appears that every thing is quiet. But as the meeting of the
+camara of Bahia is to take place early next month, for the purpose of
+chusing a new provisional government, the English are apprehensive of
+some disturbance, and therefore we are to return thither to protect our
+friends in case of need.</p>
+
+<p>21<i>st</i>.&mdash;I went ashore to shop with Glennie. There are a good many
+English shops, such as saddlers, and stores, not unlike what we call in
+England an Italian warehouse, for eatables and drinkables; but the
+English here generally sell their goods wholesale to native or French
+retailers. The latter have a great many shops of mercery, haberdashery,
+and millinery. For tailors, I think, there are more English than French,
+and but few of either. There are bakers' shops of both nations, and
+plenty of English pot-houses, whose Union Jacks, Red Lions, Jolly Tars,
+with their English inscriptions, vie with those of Greenwich or
+Deptford. The goldsmiths all live in one street, called by their name
+<i>Rua dos Ourives</i>, and their goods are exposed in hanging frames at each
+side of the shop-door or window, in the fashion of two centuries back.
+The workmanship of their chains, crosses, buttons, and other ornaments,
+is exquisite, and the price of the labour, charged over the weight of
+the metal, moderate.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the streets are lined with English goods: at every door the
+words <i>London superfine</i> meet the eye: printed cottons, broad cloths,
+crockery, but above all, hardware from Birmingham, are to be had little
+dearer than at home, in the Brazilian shops; besides silks, crapes, and
+other articles from China. But any thing bought by retail in an English
+or French shop is, usually speaking, very dear.</p>
+
+<p>I am amused at the apparent apathy of the Brazilian shopkeepers. If they
+are engaged, as now is not unfrequently the case, in talking politics,
+or reading a newspaper, or perhaps only enjoying a cool seat in the back
+of their shop, they will often say they have not the article enquired
+for, rather than rise to fetch it; and if the customer persists and
+points it out in the shop, he is coolly desired to get it for himself,
+and lay down the money. This happened several times during the course
+of our search for some tools for turning to-day along the Rua Direita,
+where every second house is a hardware shop, furnished from Sheffield
+and Birmingham.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d</i>.&mdash;The Princess's birth-day was celebrated by firing of cannon, a
+review, and a drawing-room. Capt. Prescott, of the Aurora, and Capt.
+Graham, attended it. It seems the Prince took little or no notice of
+them, or any of the English. I think it probable that the Brazilians are
+jealous of us, on account of our long alliance with Portugal; and
+besides, they may take the converse of the maxim, "those that are not
+against us are for us;" and think because we are not for them, we are
+against them.<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>24th</i>.&mdash;We sailed at daylight for Bahia. It was one of the finest
+mornings of this fine climate, and the remarkable land behind the
+Sugar-loaf was seen to its best advantage in the early light. The
+extreme beauty of this country is such, that it is impossible not to
+talk and think of it for ever; not a turn but presents some scene both
+beautiful and new; and if a mountainous and picturesque country have
+really the power of attaching its inhabitants, above all others, the
+<i>Fluminenses</i> ought to be as great patriots as any in the world.</p>
+
+<p><i>February 8th, Bahia</i>.&mdash;After a fortnight's sail, the two first days of
+which were calm, followed by a gale of wind, which lasted nearly three
+days, we anchored to-day in the bay of All Saints, which we found
+looking as gaily beautiful as ever. The election of the new provisional
+government took place yesterday, quite peaceably; and of the seven
+members of the junta, only one is a native of Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>I remark, that the language of the writers of gazettes here is much
+bolder than at Rio; and I think that there is here a truly republican
+spirit among a very considerable number of persons: whether it extends
+throughout the province I cannot judge; but I am assured that a desire
+for independence, and a resolution to possess it, is universal.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th</i>.&mdash;We went ashore yesterday. The advance of the season has ripened
+the oranges and mangoes since we left Bahia, and has increased the
+number of insects, so that the nights are no longer silent. The hissing,
+chirping, and buzzing of crickets, beetles, and grasshoppers, continue
+from sunset to sunrise; and all day long the trees and flowers are
+surrounded by myriads of brilliant wings. The most destructive insects
+are the ants, and every variety of them that can hurt vegetable life is
+to be found here. Some form nests, like huge hanging cones, among the
+branches of the trees, to which a covered gallery of clay from the
+ground may be traced along the trunk: others surround the trunks and
+larger branches with their nests; many more live under ground. I have
+seen in a single night the most flourishing orange-tree stripped of
+every leaf by this mischievous creature.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th</i>.&mdash;We sailed from Bahia, finding every thing, to all appearance,
+quiet<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a>; and no apprehension being entertained by the English, a ball
+at the consul's, another at Mrs. N.'s, and a third at Mrs. R.'s, at each
+of which, as many of our young men as could get ashore were present,
+made them very happy, and we had some very pleasant rides into the
+country. I had intended, if possible, visiting a huge mass, said to be
+so similar to the meteoric stones that have fallen in different parts of
+the world as to induce a belief that it is also one of them, although it
+weighs many tons, and I hoped to get a piece of it; but I find it is
+near Nazareth de Farinha, on the other side of the bay, and too far off
+for this present visit to Bahia. The first time we were at Bahia, I
+could not even learn where it was, so incurious are my countrymen here
+about what brings no profit.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th. Rio de Janeiro</i>.&mdash;Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage here
+from Bahia. The school-room proceeds exceedingly well, both with the
+master and the scholars; and as we are all in tolerable health, we look
+forward with no small pleasure to our voyage to Chile, for which we are
+preparing.</p>
+
+<p>During our absence, the Prince Don Pedro has been very active, and has
+dismissed all the Portuguese troops. On the ships being provided to
+transport them to Europe, they refused to embark, on which His Royal
+Highness caused a heavy frigate to anchor opposite to their quarters,
+and went on board himself the night before the morning appointed by him
+for their sailing. The steam-vessel attended for the purpose of towing
+the transports, in case of necessity; and several gun-vessels were
+stationed so as to command the barracks of the refractory regiments,
+while a body of Brazilian soldiers was stationed in the neighbourhood.
+The Prince was, during the greater part of the night, in his barge,
+going from vessel to vessel, and disposing every thing to make good his
+threat, that if the Portuguese were not all on board by eight o'clock
+the next morning, he would give them such a breakfast of Brazilian balls
+as should make them glad to leave the country. This he had been provoked
+to say, by a message from the officers and men, insolently delivered
+that very night, desiring more time to prepare for their voyage. Seeing
+His Royal Highness in earnest, which they could hardly be brought to
+believe he was, they thought it most prudent to do as they were bid; and
+accordingly embarked, to the no small joy of the Brazilians, who had
+long cordially hated them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, March 1st</i>.&mdash;The weather is now excessively hot, the
+thermometer being seldom under 88&deg;, and we have had it on board at 92&deg;
+Fahrenheit. Capt. Graham has had a slight attack of gout, for which
+reason I have not been ashore since our return from Bahia; but as he is
+a little better to-day he has insisted on my accompanying a party of our
+young men in an expedition up the harbour to see a country estate and
+factory.</p>
+
+<p>At one o'clock, our friend, Mr. N. called for us, with a large boat of
+the country, which is better for the purpose than our ship's boats.
+These vessels have a standing awning, and two very large triangular
+sails: they are managed according to their sizes by four, six, eight, or
+more negroes, besides the man at the helm: when rowing, the rowers rise
+at every stroke, and then throw themselves back on their seats. I think
+I have heard that within the memory of persons now in the navy it was
+the fashion to row the admiral's barges so in England. The boatmen are
+here universally negroes; some free, and owners of their boats; others
+slaves, who are obliged to take home a daily fixed sum to their masters,
+who often pass a life of total indolence, being fed in this way by their
+slaves.</p>
+
+<p>The place we were going to is Nossa Senhora da Luz, about twelve miles
+from Rio, up the harbour, near the mouth of the river Guaxindiba, which
+river rises in the hills of Taypu; and though its straight course is
+only five miles, its windings would measure twenty or more: it is
+navigable, and its banks are astonishingly fertile.</p>
+
+<p>The evening was charming, and we sailed past many a smiling island and
+gay wooded promontory, where gardens and country-houses are thickly
+scattered, and whence provisions in innumerable boats and canoes cross
+the bay every morning for the city. Our first view of N.S. da Luz
+presented such a high red bank, half covered with grass and trees,
+overhanging the water in the evening sun, as Cuyp would have chosen for
+a landscape; and just as I was wishing for something to animate it, the
+oxen belonging to the factory came down to drink and cool themselves in
+the bay, and completed the scene. The cattle here are large and
+well-shaped, something like our own Lancashire breed, and mottled in
+colour, though mostly red. On doubling the point of the bank, we came
+upon a small white church, with some venerable trees near it; beyond
+that was the house, with a long veranda, supported by white columns; and
+still farther on, the sugar-house, and the pottery and brick-work. We
+landed close to the house; but as the beach is shallow and muddy, we
+were carried ashore by negroes. Nothing can be finer than the scenery
+here. From the veranda, besides the picturesque and domestic
+fore-ground, we see the bay, dotted with rocky islands; one of these,
+called Itaoca, is remarkable as having, in the opinion of the Indians,
+been the residence of some divine person: it is connected with the
+traditions concerning their benefactor, Zome, who taught them the use of
+the mandioc, and whom the first missionaries here contrived to convert
+into St. Thomas the apostle. It consists of one immense stone cleft
+throughout, and a little earth and sand gathered round it, on which are
+trees and shrubs of the freshest verdure; some of the other islets are
+bare, and some again have houses and villages on them: the whole scene
+is terminated by the Organ Mountains, whose spiry and fantastic summits
+attracting the passing clouds, secure an everlasting variety to the eye.</p>
+
+<p>We found, that owing to our neglect in not sending beforehand to
+announce our visit, neither the master of the house nor his housekeeper
+were at home: however, Mr. N. being an old friend, went into the poultry
+yard, and ordered thence an excellent supper; and while it was
+preparing, we went to look at the pottery, which is only for the
+coarsest red ware. The wheel used here is the clumsiest and rudest I
+ever saw, and the potter is obliged to sit sideways by it. The clay,
+both for the pottery and the bricks, is dug on the spot; it is coarse
+and red: it is tempered by the trampling of mules; but all that we use
+spades and shovels for is done by the bare hands of the negroes: the
+furnaces for baking the bricks and jars are partly scooped out of the
+hill, and faced with brick. Leaving the pottery, we climbed the hill
+that marks the first approach to N.S. da Luz; and on the way up its
+steep and rugged side, our dogs disturbed a flock of sheep, as
+picturesque and as ragged as Paul Potter himself could have desired:
+they had been lying round the root of a huge old acacia, decorated with
+innumerable parasite plants, some of which cling like ivy to the trunk,
+and others climbing to the topmost boughs, fall thence in grey silky
+garlands, or, like the tillandsia, adorn them with hundreds of pink and
+white flowers; among these, many an ant and bee had fixed his nest, and
+every thing was teeming with life and beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The moon was up long before we returned from our ramble, and long before
+our host arrived. Had the Neapolitan ambassador, who told George the
+Third that the moon of his country was worth the sun of England, ever
+been in Brazil, I could almost forgive the hyperbole. The clear mild
+light playing on such scenery, and the cool refreshing breeze of
+evening, after a day of all but intolerable heat, render the night
+indeed the season of pleasure in this climate: nor were the rude songs
+of the negroes, as they loaded the boats to be ready to sail down the
+harbour with the morning&#8217;s land-breeze, unpleasing.</p>
+
+<p>As we were looking over the bay, a larger boat appeared: it neared the
+shore; and our host, Mr. Lewis P., who superintends the fazenda, landed,
+and kindly received our apology for coming without previous notice. The
+visit had long been talked of; but now our time at Rio was likely to be
+so short, that had we not come to-day, we might not have come at all. He
+led the way to the garden, where we passed the time till supper was
+ready. The midshipmen found more oranges, and better than they had yet
+met with, and did full justice to them. The fruit and vegetables of
+Europe and America, of the temperate and torrid zones, meet here; nor
+are their flowers forgotten: over against the little parterre, an orange
+and a tamarind tree shade a pleasant bench; close to which, in something
+of oriental taste, the white stucco wall of the well is raised and
+crowned with flower-pots, filled with roses and sweet herbs.</p>
+
+<p><i>2d.</i>&mdash;I rose at daylight, and rode with Mr. N. through the estate,
+while Mr. Dance, my cousin Glennie, and the two boys, went to shoot in
+the marsh by the river side.</p>
+
+<p>Every turn in our ride brought a new and varied landscape into view:
+beneath, the sugar-cane in luxuriant growth; above, the ripening orange
+and the palm; around and scattered through the plain enlivened by the
+windings of the Guazindiba, the lime, the guava, and a thousand odorous
+and splendid shrubs, beautified the path.&mdash;But all is new here. The long
+lines of fazenda houses, that now and then take from the solitariness of
+nature, suggest no association with any advance either of old or present
+time, in the arts that civilise or that ennoble man. The rudest
+manufactures, carried on by African slaves, one half of whom are newly
+imported, (that is, are still smarting under the separation from all
+that endears the home, even of a savage,) are all the approaches to
+improvement; and though nature is at least as fine as in India or in
+Italy, the want of some reference to man, as an intellectual and moral
+being, robs it of half its charms. However, I returned well pleased from
+my ride, and found my young sportsmen not less pleased with their
+morning's ramble. Not, indeed, that they had shot snipes, as they
+intended, but they had gotten a huge lizard (<i>Lacerta Marmorata</i>), of a
+kind they had not seen before. They had seen the large land-crab
+(<i>Ruricola</i>), and they had brought down a boatswain bird, a sort of
+pelican, (<i>Pelicanus Lencocephalus</i>), which they proposed to stuff.
+Accordingly after breakfast, as the weather was too hot to walk farther,
+the bird and the lizard were both skinned, the guns were cleaned, and I
+made a sketch of the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I took a long walk to a point of view whence the whole
+bay with the city in the distance is distinctly seen, and on the way
+stopped at a cottage, where Mr. P. who is, literally, here "king,
+priest, and prophet," had some enquiry to make, concerning the health of
+the indwellers: these were two negroes, who have grown old in the
+service of the estate, and are no longer useful. I have seen examples of
+such being freed, that is, turned out of doors to starve. Here they
+would be entitled, by the rules of the estate, if not by law, to come
+every day for the same allowance as the working negroes: but they do not
+choose it. They indeed live in a hut, and on the ground of their master;
+but they maintain themselves by rearing a few fowls, and making baskets:
+so dear is the feeling of independence, even in old age, sickness, and
+slavery.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, 3d.</i>&mdash;I went out before breakfast, with a negro carpenter for
+my guide. This man, with little instruction, has learned his art so as
+to be not only a good carpenter and joiner, but also a very tolerable
+cabinet-maker, and in other respects displays a quickness of
+understanding which gives no countenance to the pretended inferiority of
+negro intellect. I was much pleased with the observations he made on
+many things which I remarked as new, and with the perfect understanding
+he seemed to have of all country works. After breakfast, I attended the
+weekly muster of all the negroes of the fazenda; clean shirts and
+trowsers were given the men, and shifts and skirts to the women, of very
+coarse white cotton. Each, as he or she came in, kissed a hand, and then
+bowed to Mr. P. saying, either "Father, give me blessing," or "The names
+of Jesus and Mary be praised!" and were answered accordingly, either
+"Bless you," or "Be they praised." This is the custom in old
+establishments: it is repeated morning and evening, and seems to
+acknowledge a kind of relationship between master and slave. It must
+diminish the evils of slavery to one, the tyranny of mastership in the
+other, to acknowledge thus a common superior Master on whom they both
+depend.</p>
+
+<p>As each slave passed in review, some questions were asked concerning
+himself, his family, if he had one, or his work; and each received a
+portion of snuff or tobacco, according to his taste. Mr. P. is one of
+the few persons whom I have met conversant among slaves, who appears to
+have made them an object of rational and humane attention. He tells me
+that the creole negroes and mulattoes are far superior in industry to
+the Portuguese and Brazilians; who, from causes not difficult to be
+imagined, are for the most part indolent and ignorant. The negroes and
+mulattoes have strong motives to exertion of every kind, and succeed in
+what they undertake accordingly. They are the best artificers and
+artists. The orchestra of the opera-house is composed of at least
+one-third of mulattoes. All decorative painting, carving, and inlaying
+is done by them; in short, they excel in all ingenious mechanical arts.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I attended Mr. P. to see the negroes receive their
+daily allowance of food. It consisted of farinha, kidney-beans, and
+dried beef, a fixed measure of each to every person. One man asked for
+two portions, on account of the absence of his neighbour, whose wife had
+desired it might be sent to her to make ready for him by the time he
+returned. Some enquiries which Mr. P. made about this person, induced me
+to ask his history. It seems he is a mulatto boatman, the most trusty
+servant on the estate, and rich, because he is industrious enough to
+have earned a good deal of private property, besides doing his duty to
+his master. In his youth, and he is not now old, he had become attached
+to a creole negress, born, like him, on the estate; but he did not marry
+her till he had earned money enough to purchase her, in order that their
+children, if they had any, might be born free. Since that time, he has
+become rich enough to purchase himself, even at the high price which
+such a slave might fetch; but his master will not sell him his freedom,
+his services being too valuable to lose, notwithstanding his promise to
+remain on the estate and work. Unfortunately these people have no
+children; therefore on their death their property, now considerable,
+will revert to the master. Had they children, as the woman is free, they
+might inherit the mother&#8217;s property; and there is nothing to prevent the
+father&#8217;s making over all he earns to her. I wish I had the talent of
+novel writing, for the sake of this slave&#8217;s story; but my writing, like
+my drawing, goes no farther than sketching from nature, and I make
+better artists welcome to use the subject.</p>
+
+<p>The evening was very stormy: deep clouds had covered the Organ
+Mountains; and vivid lightning, sharp rain, and boisterous wind, had
+threatened the fazenda with a night of terror. But it passed away,
+leaving all the grand and gloomy beauty of a departed thunder-storm in a
+mountainous country; when the moon broke through the clouds, and the
+night seemed, from the contrast with the last few hours, even lovelier
+than the last. Then just as the</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i3">"Sable clouds<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Turned forth their silver lining on the night,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And cast a gleam over the tufted grove."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>I heard the sounds of music; not such, indeed, as Milton&#8217;s echo, with
+Henry Lawes&#8217;s notes, would have made,&mdash;of which the night and the scene
+had made me dream; but the voice of the slaves on this their night of
+holiday, beguiling their cares with uncouth airs, played on rude African
+instruments. Taking one of my ship-mates with me, I immediately went to
+the huts of the married slaves, where all merry-makings are held; and
+found parties playing, singing, and dancing to the moonlight. A
+superstitious veneration for that beautiful planet is said to be pretty
+general in savage Africa, as that for the Pleiades was among the
+Indians of Brazil; and probably the slaves, though baptized, dance to
+the moon in memory of their homes. As for the instruments, they are the
+most inartificial things that ever gave out musical sounds; yet they
+have not an unpleasing effect. One is simply composed of a crooked
+stick, a small hollow gourd, and a single string of brass wire. The
+mouth of the gourd must be placed on the naked skin of the side; so that
+the ribs of the player form the sounding-board, and the string is struck
+with a short stick. A second has more the appearance of a guitar: the
+hollow gourd is covered with skin; it has a bridge, and there are two
+strings; it is played with the finger. Another of the same class is
+played with a bow; it has but one string, but is fretted with the
+fingers. All these are called Gourmis. There were, besides, drums made
+of the hollow trunks of trees, four or five feet long, closed at one end
+with wood, and covered with skin at the other. In playing these, the
+drummer lays his instrument on the ground and gets astride on it, when
+he beats time with his hands to his own songs, or the tunes of the
+gourmis. The small marimba has a very sweet tone. On a flat piece of
+sonorous wood a little bridge is fastened; and to this small slips of
+iron, of different lengths, are attached, so as that both ends vibrate
+on the board, one end being broader and more elevated than the other.
+This broad end is played with the thumbs, the instrument being held with
+both hands. All these are tuned in a peculiar manner, and with great
+nicety, especially the marimba<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a>; but, as I am no musician, I cannot
+explain their methods.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th</i>.&mdash;I was very sorry indeed this morning at sunrise, when I saw the
+boats ready to convey us from N.S. da Luz, where we had enjoyed our
+three days as much as possible; a cheerful party, a kind host, free
+disposal of our time, and no business but such as might beseem the
+individuals of this castle of indolence, "where every man strolled off
+his own glad way."</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"There freedom reigned without the least alloy;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nor gossip's tale, nor ancient maiden&#8217;s gall,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nor saintly spleen, durst murmur at our joy,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And with envenomed tongue our pleasures pall.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For why? There was but one great rule for all;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To wit, that each should work his own desire."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>We returned to the ship by a different way from that by which we went,
+through the archipelago of beautiful islands on the eastern side of the
+harbour; and I had the pleasure to find the Captain really better,
+though still with tender feet.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th</i>.&mdash;His Majesty&#8217;s ship, Slaney, Capt. Stanhope, sailed from Rio.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th</i>.&mdash;The Superb arrived from Valparaiso, bringing no news of
+importance. Indeed, if she had, we are scarcely in a state to attend to
+it: we have sat up all night with B., one of our midshipmen, who is
+dangerously ill.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th</i>.&mdash;Captain Graham not feeling well enough to leave the ship, I went
+with Captain Prescott of the Aurora, to visit the French Commodore
+Roussin on board the Amazone. I have seldom been better pleased. The
+captains of the other French ships were there, to receive us. All the
+urbanity of Frenchmen, joined with the delightful frankness of the
+profession, assured us we were welcome. The ship itself, every part of
+which we saw, is a model of all that can be done, either in the
+dock-yard at home, or by officers afloat, for comfort, health, and
+cleanliness, and is well as a man of war. Her captain, however, is a
+superior man; and many ships of every and any nation might be visited
+before his equal would be met with. I wish it were possible that we
+should introduce into our ships the oven on the lower deck, which gives
+fresh bread twice a week for the whole ship&#8217;s company, not only for the
+sake of the bread, but the heating it must air and ventilate the ship.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th</i>.&mdash;The Portuguese squadron from Lisbon, with a reinforcement of
+troops, arrived off the harbour. Troops are sent to reinforce the
+garrisons in the forts, at the entrance; and the ships are forbidden to
+enter, but promised victuals and water to carry them to Lisbon. I was on
+shore all day on business, preparatory to our sailing for Valparaiso.
+Captain Graham being too unwell to venture out of the ship himself, he
+therefore undertook to nurse the invalid for me. I returned late. I
+found B. dangerously ill, and Captain Graham very uneasy.</p>
+
+<p>I received many persons on board, and took leave of many.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="g" id="g"></a><img src="images/013.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>10th</i>.&mdash;We sailed at daylight from Rio, in full hope that the cool
+weather we shall find on going round Cape Horn, and the fine climate of
+Chile, will do us all good. I have not been in bed for three nights; my
+invalids are in that state, that night watching is necessary for them.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th</i>.&mdash;In addition to our other troubles, the first lieutenant is
+taken dangerously ill: but Captain Graham appears better, though not yet
+able to go on deck.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th</i>.&mdash;Yesterday afternoon the mercury in the barometer sunk in a
+very short space of time a whole inch, and we had a gale of wind. The
+cold is sensibly increased. Fahrenheit&#8217;s thermometer often stood at 92&deg;
+in Rio harbour; it is now 68&deg;, and we have many sick. B. is getting
+better.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th</i>.&mdash;Wind and sea abated, and the barometer rising once more; the
+mercury stands at 30 inches and two-tenths. I have lain down at four
+o'clock these two mornings, Glennie having kindly relieved my watching
+at that hour. We have removed the dead-lights from the cabin windows.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th</i>.&mdash;Every thing better. The young people again at school. Some
+lunars taken. We are in 36&deg; 55&acute; S. latitude, and the thermometer is at
+68&deg;.; barometer 30&#8211;2.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19<i>th</i> and 20<i>th</i> the mercury in the barometer sunk gradually
+from 30 to 29&#8211;02, and rose again as before on the 21st. It blew hard;
+the thermometer fell to 58&deg;, in latitude 42&deg; S. There are many
+albatrosses and stormy petrels about the ship.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d</i>.&mdash;Latitude 46&deg; 25' S., longitude 52&deg; 40' W. The weather very cold,
+though the thermometer is at 56&deg;, barometer 29&#8211;08; a very heavy swell.
+Great numbers of the Cape pigeon about the ship.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th</i>.&mdash;Latitude 50&deg; 30'; thermometer 44&deg; morning and evening, 47&deg; at
+noon. Seeing two penguins to-day, we supposed some land must be near,
+but found no bottom with 100 fathoms line. The cold weather seems to
+have a good effect on our invalids. The barometer fell suddenly, and a
+strong S.W. wind succeeded, and we were glad to light a fire in the
+cabin.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry we have passed so far out of sight of the Falkland Islands,
+Sir John Hawkins&#8217;s maiden land. The idea of seeing a town left standing
+as it was, by all its inhabitants at once, and of the tame animals
+becoming wild, had something romantic. It seemed like a realisation of
+the Arabian tale of the half-marble prince, and in real interest comes
+near the discovery of the lost Greenland settlements. I do not know any
+thing that gratifies the imagination, more than the situations and
+incidents that by bringing distant periods of time together, places
+them, as it were, at once within our own reach. I remember some years
+ago spending a whole day with no companion but my guide at Pompeii, and
+becoming so intimate with the ancients, their ways, and manners, that I
+felt, when I went home to Naples, and its lazaroni, and its English
+travellers, as I suppose, that one of the seven sleepers to have done,
+who went to purchase bread with money five centuries old. As to the
+marble cities of Moorish Africa, when we consider their exposure to the
+sirocco, and read Dolomieu's Experiments on the Atmosphere, during the
+prevalence of that wind at Malta, we shall find but too probable a
+reason for their existence as reported.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th</i>.&mdash;Latitude 51&deg; 58' S., longitude 51&deg; W., thermometer 41&deg;. Strong
+south-westerly gales and heavy sea. Just as our friends in England are
+looking forward to spring, its gay light days and early flowers, we are
+sailing towards frozen regions, where avarice&#8217; self has been forced to
+give up half-formed settlements by the severity of the climate. We are
+in the midst of a dark boisterous sea; over us, a dense, grey, cold sky.
+The albatross, stormy petrel, and pintado are our companions; yet there
+is a pleasure in stemming the apparently irresistible waves, and in
+wrestling thus with the elements. I forget what writer it is who
+observes, that the sublime and the ridiculous border on each other; I am
+sure they approach very nearly at sea. If I look abroad, I see the
+grandest and most sublime object in nature,&mdash;the ocean raging in its
+might, and man, in all his honour, and dignity, and powers of mind and
+body, wrestling with and commanding it: then I look within, round my
+little home in the cabin, and every roll of the ship causes accidents
+irresistibly ludicrous; and in spite of the inconveniences they bring
+with them, one cannot choose but laugh. Sometimes, in spite of all usual
+precautions, of cushions and clothes, the breakfast-table is suddenly
+stripped of half its load, which is lodged in the lee scuppers, whither
+the coal-scuttle and its contents had adjourned the instant before: then
+succeed the school-room distresses of <i>capsized</i> ink-stands, broken
+slates, torn books, and lost places; not to mention the loss of many a
+painful calculation, and other evils exquisite in their kind, but
+abundantly laughable, especially, as it happened just now, if the
+school-master is induced to measure his length on the deck, when in the
+act of reprimanding the carelessness which subjects the slates and books
+to these untoward chances.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th</i>.&mdash;Latitude 55&deg; 26' S., longitude 56&deg; 11' W. Captain Graham and
+the first lieutenant still both very ill. At one o'clock this morning
+the mercury in the barometer sunk to 28-09; at seven it rose again to
+29-01. The thermometer is at 38&deg; of Fahrenheit, and we have had squalls
+of snow and sleet, and a heavy sea. There are flocks of very small birds
+about the ship, and we have seen a great many whales.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th</i>.&mdash;Latitude 56&deg; 51' S., longitude 59&deg; W.; the thermometer at 30&deg;
+this morning, and 32&deg; at noon. A violent gale of wind from the
+south-west; the only thing like a hard gale since we left England. I had
+breakfast spread on the cabin deck, as it was not possible to secure any
+thing on a table. Clarke, one of the quartermasters, had two ribs broken
+by a fall on deck; and Sinclair, a very strong man, was taken ill after
+being an hour at the wheel. We have made gloves for the men at the wheel
+of canvass, lined with dreadnought; and for the people at night,
+waistbands of canvass, with dreadnought linings. The snow and hail
+squalls are very severe; ice forms in every fold of the sails. This is
+hard upon the men, so soon after leaving Rio in the hottest part of the
+year.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday morning, about an hour before sunrise, a bright meteor was
+seen in the south-west. It was first taken for the signal lanterns of a
+large ship; then the officer of the watch thought it was a blue light,
+and we made no doubt of its being Sir T. Hardy in the Creole. It
+remained a long time stationary; then it was lost behind the clouds, and
+reappeared between them about 10&deg; high, when it disappeared.<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>April 1st</i>.&mdash;Latitude 57&deg; 46'; the weather much more mild and moderate.
+Our young men have caught a number of birds, principally petrels; the P.
+Pelagica, or Mother Cary's chicken, is the least; the P. Pintado is
+gayest on the water; but the P. Glacialis, or fulmer, is most beautiful
+when brought on board: I cannot enough admire the delicate beauty of the
+snow-white plumage, unwet and unsoiled, amid the salt waves. The poets
+have scandalised both the arctic and antarctic regions as</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i2">"A bleak expanse,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Shagg'd o'er with wavy rocks, cheerless and <i>void</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Of ev'ry life</i>;"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>yet, on Capt. Parry's approach to the north pole, he found the solitude
+teeming with <i>life</i>; and the farther south we have sailed, the more
+<i>life</i> we have found on the waters. Yesterday the sea was covered with
+albatrosses, and four kinds of petrel: the penguin comes near us; shoals
+of porpoises are constantly flitting by, and whales for ever rising to
+the surface and blowing alongside of the ship.</p>
+
+<p>With the thermometer not lower than 30&deg;, we feel the cold excessive.
+Yesterday morning the main rigging was cased in ice; and the ropes were
+so frozen after the sleet in the night, that it was difficult to work
+them. I never see these things but I think of Thomson's description of
+Sir Hugh Willoughby's attempt to discover the northwest passage, when</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i2">"He with his hapless crew,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Each full exerted at his several task,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Froze into statues; to the cordage glued<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The sailor, and the pilot to the helm."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>I was glad to-day, when the dead-lights were removed, to see the bright,
+blue, but still boisterous sea, spreading with ample waves curled with
+snowy tops, in the sunshine; it is many days since we have seen the sun,
+and the white birds flying and chattering, or wrestling on the water,
+while the ship, like them, sometimes bravely mounts the very top of the
+wave, and sometimes quietly subsides with it. These are the things we
+behold "who go down to the sea in ships, "and occupy our business in the
+great waters." No one can imagine, who has not felt, the exhilaration
+of spirits produced by a dry clear day of sunshine at sea, after a week
+of rain and snow.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 2d</i>.&mdash;A few minutes after noon, an iceberg was reported on the
+lee-bow. As I had never seen one, I went on deck for the first time
+since we left Rio to see it.<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> It appeared like a moderately high
+conical hill, and looked very white upon the bleak grey sky; it might be
+about twelve miles from us. The temperature of the water was 36&deg; of
+Fahrenheit's thermometer, that of the air 38&deg;, when the ice was nearest.</p>
+
+<p>For some few days the violent motion of the ship, occasioned by the
+heavy sea, has rendered writing and drawing irksome; for, as Lord
+Dorset's song has it,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Roll up and down our ships, at sea."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Nevertheless we are not idle. As the cabin has always a good fire in it,
+it is the general rendezvous for invalids; and the midshipmen come in
+and out as they please, as it is the school-room. In one corner Glennie
+has his apparatus for skinning and dissecting the birds we take; and we
+have constantly occasion to admire the beautiful contrivances of nature
+in providing for her creatures. These huge sea-birds, that we find so
+far from any land, have on each side large air-vessels adapted for
+floating them in the air, or on the water; they are placed below the
+wings, and the liver, gizzard, and entrails rest on them. In each
+gizzard of those we have yet opened, there have been two small pebbles,
+of unequal size; and the gizzard is very rough within. We have found
+more vegetable than animal food in their stomachs.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th April, 1822</i>.&mdash;To-day we made the coast of Chile. I had continued
+to write my Journal regularly; but though nearly two years are past
+since I wrote it, I cannot bring myself to copy it: from the 3d of April
+it became a register of acute suffering; and, on my part, of alternate
+hopes and fears through days and nights of darkness and storms, which
+aggravated the wretchedness of those wretched hours. On the night of the
+ninth of April, I regularly undressed and went to bed for the first time
+since I left Rio de Janeiro. All was then over, and I slept long and
+rested; but I awoke to the consciousness of being alone, and a widow,
+with half the globe between me and my kindred.</p>
+
+<p>Many things very painful occurred. But I had comfort too. I found
+sympathy and brotherly help from some; and I was not insensible to the
+affectionate behaviour of <i>my boys</i>, as the midshipmen were called. And
+I had the comfort to feel that no stranger hand had closed his eyes, or
+smoothed his pillow.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. London and Mr. Kift, the surgeon and assistant surgeon, never left
+the bed-side; and, when my strength failed, my cousin Mr. Glennie, and
+Mr. Blatchly, two passed midshipmen, did all that friends could do.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant,&mdash;though, from the illness of the first
+lieutenant, the whole business of the ship devolved on him,&mdash;found time
+to be near his friend's death-bed; and, whether at noon or midnight, was
+never absent where kindness could be shown.</p>
+
+<p>But what could any human kindness do for me? My comfort must come from
+him who in his own time will "wipe off all tears from our faces."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="SECOND_VISIT_TO_BRAZIL" id="SECOND_VISIT_TO_BRAZIL"></a>SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Before I begin the Journal of my Second Visit to Brazil, from which I
+was absent a year and three days, it will be necessary to give a short
+account of the principal events which took place during that year, and
+which changed the government of the country.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince Regent had in vain sent the most pressing representations in
+favour of Brazil to the Cortes. No notice whatever was taken of his
+despatches; and the government at Lisbon continued to legislate for
+Brazil as if it were a settlement on the coast of savage Africa. The
+ministers who had served Don John had seen enough of the country, during
+their residence in it, to be persuaded that Brazil, united, was at any
+time competent to throw off all subjection to the mother country; the
+object, therefore, became to divide it. Accordingly a scheme for the
+government of Brazil was framed, by which each captaincy should be ruled
+by a junta, whose acts were to be totally independent on each other, and
+only recognisable by the authorities in Portugal; and the Prince was
+ordered home in a peremptory and indecent manner. I have mentioned in my
+Journal the reception those orders had met with, and the resolution His
+Royal Highness had adopted of staying in Brazil. As soon as this
+resolution became known to the provinces, addresses and deputations
+poured in on all sides from every town and captaincy, excepting the city
+of Bahia and the province of Maranliam, which had always had a
+government independent of the rest of Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>In December, 1821, the King had appointed General Madeira governor of
+Bahia and commander of the troops. He entered on his office in February;
+and shortly afterwards the first actual warfare between the Portuguese
+and Brazilians began in the city of St. Salvador, on the 6th of the
+month, when the Brazilians were defeated with some loss.<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> Meantime,
+the province of St. Paul's had made every exertion to raise and arm
+troops; and early in February 1100 men marched towards Rio, to put
+themselves at the disposal of the Prince. Some recruits for the seamen
+and marine corps were raised, and a naval academy established, the
+object of all which was to prevent the carrying away the Prince by
+force. It was now thought advisable that the Prince should visit the two
+most important provinces, St. Paul's and the Mines; and on the 26th or
+27th of March he left Rio for that purpose, leaving the executive
+government in the hands of the minister Jos&eacute; Bonifacio. His Royal
+Highness was received every where with enthusiasm, until he arrived at
+the last stage, on his way to Villa Rica, the capital of the province of
+Minas Geraes; there he received intelligence of a party raised to oppose
+his entrance by the Juiz de Fora, supported by a captain of one of the
+regiments of Ca&ccedil;adores. He immediately caused some troops to be
+assembled and joined with those which accompanied him, and then remained
+where he was, and sent to the camara of the town, to say he was able to
+enter by force, but had rather come among them as a friend and
+protector. Several messages passed; the conspirators discovered that the
+Prince was, indeed, sufficiently strong to overpower them; and besides,
+they met with no support, as they had hoped, from the magistrates or
+people. His Royal Highness, therefore, entered Villa Rica on the 9th of
+April, and on the magistrates and people attending to compliment him, he
+addressed them thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Brave Mineros! The shackles of despotism, which began to be loosened on
+the 24th of August in Porto, are now bursting in this province. Be
+free,&mdash;be constitutional! Unite with me, and proceed constitutionally. I
+rely entirely on you. Do you depend on me. Let not yourselves be deluded
+by those who seek the ruin of your province, and of the whole nation.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Viva, The Constitutional King!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Viva, Our Religion!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Viva, All honest men!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Viva, The Mineros!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The next day the Prince held a general court, and remained eleven days
+at Villa Rica. The only punishment inflicted on the conspirators, was
+suspension from their offices; and this royal visit attached this
+province to him, as firmly as those of St. Paul's and Rio.</p>
+
+<p>He returned to Rio de Janeiro on the 25th, where he was received in the
+most flattering manner, and where he became daily more popular; and on
+the 13th of May, King John's birth-day, the senate and people bestowed
+on him the title of Perpetual Defender of Brazil, and thenceforward his
+style was, <span class="smcap">Constitutional Prince Regent, and Perpetual Defender of the
+Kingdom of Brazil</span>.</p>
+
+<p>The impossibility of continuing united to Portugal had become daily more
+apparent. All the southern provinces were eager to declare their
+independence. Pernambuco and its dependencies had long manifested a
+similar feeling, and the province of Bahia was equally inclined to
+freedom although the city was full of Portuguese troops under Madeira,
+and receiving constant reinforcements and supplies from Lisbon.</p>
+
+<p>The Cortes seemed resolved on bringing matters to extremities; the
+language used in their sessions, with respect to the Prince, was highly
+indecent. Such commanders either by sea or land as obeyed him, unless
+by force, were declared traitors, and he was ordered home anew within
+four months, under pain of submitting to the future disposition of the
+Cortes; and they decreed that the whole means of government should be
+employed to enforce obedience. The Brazilian members did indeed
+remonstrate and protest formally against these proceedings; but they
+were over-ruled; and the spectators in the galleries, on one occasion,
+went so far as to cry, "Down with the Brazilian!"</p>
+
+<p>In the months of June and July, Madeira began to make sallies into the
+country around Bahia, as if it had been possessed by an enemy; and,
+indeed, he quickly found one most formidable. The town of Cachoeira,
+large and populous, and intimately connected with the hardy inhabitants
+of the Certam, soon became the head-quarters of crowds of patriots, who
+assembled there, and resolved to expel the Portuguese from their
+capital.</p>
+
+<p>They began to form regular troops; but though they were abundantly
+supplied with beef and other provisions, they were in want of arms and
+ammunition, and sent to Rio de Janeiro to represent their situation to
+the Prince, and request assistance. They were also in great distress for
+salt to preserve their provisions; and as to accoutrements, raw hides
+supplied the place of almost every thing. An apothecary, in Cachoeira,
+shortly began to boil sea-water in sugar-coppers, to make salt, and soon
+reduced the price of that article, so that the quantity at first sold
+for ten pataccas (eighteen shillings) fell to seven vintems (seven
+pence). The same apothecary, collecting all the salt-petre in the
+neighbourhood, applied himself to making of gunpowder, and a fortunate
+discovery of some hundred barrels smuggled into Itaparica by some
+English, was of essential use to them. But they had no cannon, no lead
+for ball for their muskets and matchlocks; the lead, indeed, and a
+quantity of gun-locks, their friends within the city contrived to
+smuggle to them; and their guns were supplied in the following manner.
+In each engenho, there was an old gun or two for the purpose of
+balancing some part of the machinery; these were at once sent to
+Cachoeira, where, being cleaned and bushed by an ingenious blacksmith,
+they were rendered serviceable; and the patriots ventured to take the
+field against Madeira's parties, even before the arrival of any
+assistance from Rio.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime, news of these transactions arrived at Rio, as well as notice
+of the decrees of the Cortes at Lisbon. The Prince and people no longer
+hesitated. His Royal Highness, together with the senate, issued
+proclamations on the <i>3d</i> of June, calling together a representative and
+legislative assembly, to be composed of members from every province and
+town, to meet in the city of Rio; and on the first of August he
+published that noble manifesto, by which the independence of Brazil was
+openly asserted, the grounds of its claims clearly stated, and the
+people exhorted to let no voice but that of honour be heard among them,
+and to let the shores, from the Amazons to the Plata, resound with no
+cry but that of independence. On the same day, a decree was put forth to
+resist the hostilities of Portugal, containing the following
+articles:&mdash;1st, All troops sent by any country whatever, without leave
+obtained from the Prince, shall be accounted enemies: 2d, If they come
+in peace, they shall remain on board their ships, and shall not
+communicate with the shore; but, having received supplies, shall depart:
+3d, That in case of disobedience, they shall be repulsed by force: 4th,
+If they force a landing in any weak point, the inhabitants shall retire
+to the interior, with all their moveables, and the militia shall make
+war as guerillas against the strangers: 5th, That all governors, &amp;c.
+shall fortify their ports, &amp;c.: 6th, Reports to be forthwith made of the
+state of the ports in Brazil, for that end.</p>
+
+<p>This last decree had been anticipated by the Pernambucans, who had
+marched a body of troops to the assistance of the patriots of Cachoeira,
+and a most harassing warfare was commenced against the Portuguese in St.
+Salvador: these last had received a reinforcement of seven hundred men
+on the 8th of August; but they had hardly had time to exult in their
+arrival, when a squadron from Rio Janeiro disembarked at Alagoas 5000
+guns, six field-pieces, 270,000 cartridges, 2000 pikes, 500 carbines,
+500 pistols, 500 cutlasses, and 260 men, chiefly officers, under
+Brigadier-general Lebatu<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a>, who soon joined the patriots, and fixed
+his head-quarters at Cachoeira, having stretched a line of troops across
+the peninsula on which the town is placed, and thus cut it off from
+provisions on that side; but the sea being still open, supplies were
+abundant, not only from abroad, but from the opposite island of
+Itaparica. That fertile district, however, was soon occupied by the
+Brazilians; and Madeira had only his supplies from seaward, unless he
+could by force dislodge the Brazilians from their quarters on that
+island.</p>
+
+<p>The cabinet of Rio became sensible that it was necessary to provide a
+naval force, if they wished to preserve the kingdom from the farther
+attacks of Portugal, or to dislodge the enemy from his strong-hold in
+Bahia. Accordingly, the agents of the government in England were
+employed to engage officers and men: some were collected on the spot;
+others, such as Captain David Jewet, from Buenos Ayres and America, were
+instantly employed; and all exertions were made to repair such of the
+ships left behind by King John as would bear the repairs.</p>
+
+<p>At length, on the 12th of October, the birth-day of the Prince, the
+troops being, as usual, assembled in the great square of Santa Anna, and
+a great concourse of people attending, the Prince was suddenly hailed
+Emperor of Brazil, and the kingdom changed in style and title, and all
+dependence on, or connection with Portugal, for ever abjured.</p>
+
+<p>This event seemed to give new spirit to the war of Bahia: as it
+exasperated the Portuguese, so it encouraged the Brazilians, now assured
+of independence. Madeira, resolved, if possible, to gain a communication
+with Nazareth on one of the rivers of the Reconcave, which is most
+fertile, and furnishes abundance of farinha, sent one hundred men of
+the Ca&ccedil;adores, under Colonel Russel, to attempt to gain possession of
+the Ulha do Medo, which commands the Funil, or passage between the
+mainland and Itaparica leading to Nazareth; but their boats grounded,
+and they were obliged to wait for the tide, while the Brazilians, who
+are excellent marksmen, and were concealed among the bushes ashore,
+picked them off at leisure. Another expedition, equally unfortunate, was
+sent with a large gun-vessel to Cachoeira, and arrived off the public
+square, just as it was filled with people proclaiming the Emperor. The
+guns began to play on the mob; but the tide was low, and the shot,
+instead of reaching the people, only struck the quays, and did little
+damage. The Brazilian soldiers now crowded to the wharfs, and thence
+commenced so brisk a fire on the enemy, that the commander of the vessel
+retreated hastily without killing a man, though he lost many. In this
+action Dona Maria de Jesus distinguished herself; for the spirit of
+patriotism had not confined itself to the men.<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a></p>
+
+<p>The most considerable expedition sent by Madeira from Bahia was to the
+Punto de Itaparica, the possession of which was becoming daily more
+important, as the provisions in the town diminished. For this purpose
+1500 men were embarked on board the Promtadao, and two other brigs of
+war; they were to land half on one side and half on the other of the
+little peninsula forming the Punto, on which there is a small fort and
+town, which the troops were to attack while the brigs fired on the fort.
+The passage from Bahia to this point is usually of six or seven hours at
+most, allowing for a contrary wind; but these vessels were two days in
+reaching it, by which time the Brazilians had thrown up heaps of sand;
+behind which they lay concealed, and deliberately fired on the
+Lusitanians as they passed, and committed great slaughter, without the
+loss of a man, though they had several wounded. This action, if it may
+be called so, took place on the 2d of January, 1823, and lasted from
+noon till sunset.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the land side of the city had been harassed by continual
+attacks, and the troops worn out with constant watching; for the
+Brazilians were continually riding about in the woods, and beating
+marches, and causing their trumpets to sound to charge in the night, and
+by the time the enemy could reach the spot they were fled. On the 18th
+of November, 1822, however, Madeira made a sortie, and was met by the
+Brazilians at Piraja, between two and three leagues from the city, when
+a severe action took place, with some loss on both sides, and both
+claimed the victory; but as the Lusitanians retired to the town, and the
+Brazilians took up new positions close to the city gates, the advantage
+must undoubtedly have been on the side of the latter. Meantime the
+scarcity of fresh provisions was such, that all the foreign merchants
+who had families, and who could by any means remove, did so. All the
+country-houses were abandoned, and the people crowded into the town. The
+heaviest contributions were levied on all natives and foreigners, and
+the misery of a siege was coming upon the city.</p>
+
+<p>Rio de Janeiro presented a very different spectacle. The inhabitants
+were decorating their town with triumphal arches for the coronation of
+their Emperor, who, on the 1st of December, was solemnly crowned in the
+chapel of the palace, which serves as the cathedral; and it is no
+exaggeration to say, that the whole of southern Brazil presented one
+scene of joy.</p>
+
+<p>The ministers, no less than the monarch, were beloved. The finances
+began to assume a flourishing aspect: large subscriptions flowed in from
+all quarters for the equipment of a fleet; and an invitation had been
+sent to Lord Cochrane to command it. The Emperor had accepted the most
+moderate income that ever crowned head was contented withal<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a>, in
+order to spare his people. He visited his dock-yards and arsenals
+himself; attended business of every kind; encouraged improvements in
+every department, and Brazil had begun to assume a most flourishing
+aspect. Such was the state of things when I arrived for the second time
+in Brazil, along with Lord Cochrane, on the 13th of March, 1823.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="h" id="h"></a><img src="images/014.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>March 13th, 1823. On board the Col. Allen, at anchor in Rio de
+Janeiro</i>.&mdash;One of the most windy and rainy days that I ever remember
+seeing in Brazil; so that the beautiful landscape of the harbour is
+entirely lost to the strangers from Chile, and I cannot get ashore
+either to provide lodgings for myself and my invalid<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a>, or to assist
+my friends in any way. When the officer of the visiting boat came on
+board, the captain of the ship showed him into the cabin, and left him
+with me. I found he spoke English, and immediately began to enquire of
+him concerning the news of Rio. And first he mentioned the coronation of
+the Emperor, and then the war at Bahia; on which I questioned him very
+closely, on the ground of having formerly visited the place. It appears
+that last night only His Imperial Majesty's ships Una&#335;, (now Piranga,)
+Nitherohy, and Liberal, with a fleet of transports, had returned from
+Alagoas, where they had landed reinforcements for General Labatu; whose
+head-quarters are at Cachoeira, and who is investing the city of Bahia
+closely. General Madeira has a strong force of Portuguese soldiers,
+besides 2000 seamen which occasionally do duty ashore, and a
+considerable naval force.<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> But it appears, that the seamen are on
+the point of mutining for want of pay. Having told me so much, the
+officer began to question me in my turn,&mdash;Did I come from Chile? Did I
+know Lord Cochrane? was he coming to Rio? for all eyes were turned
+towards him. When he found that His Lordship was actually on board, he
+flew to his cabin door, and entreated to kiss his hands; then snatched
+his hat, and calling to the captain to do as he would, and anchor where
+he pleased without ceremony, jumped over the side to be the first, if
+possible, to convey to the Emperor the joyful intelligence. Nearly the
+same scene was acted over when Perez, the port-captain, came on board;
+and in a few minutes Captain Gar&ccedil;a&#335; of the Liberal came to pay his
+respects, and shortly afterwards Captain Taylor of the Nitherohy, from
+whom we learned something more of the state of His Imperial Majesty's
+fleet. The Pedro Primeiro, formerly the Martim Freitas, had been left by
+the King in want of thorough repair; this she has had, and came out of
+dock yesterday; she is said to sail well. The Caroline is a fine
+frigate, but not commissioned, for want of men. The Una&#335; is a very fine
+ship, wants copper, and is commanded by Captain Jewitt. The Nitherohy is
+a corvette, well found, and in good repair, but a heavy sailer; and the
+Maria da Gloria, a fine corvette, is commanded by a French officer,
+Captain Beaurepair. The great difficulty the navy here has to dread is
+the want of men.<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> Portuguese sailors are worse than none; few
+Brazilians are sailors at all, and French, English, and Americans are
+very scarce. The Emperor is fond of the navy, and very active in looking
+into every department. He is often in the dock-yards by daylight, and
+the Empress generally accompanies him.</p>
+
+<p>Their Majesties appear by all accounts to be highly popular. Their
+youth, their spirit, the singular situation in which they are placed,
+are all interesting. It is seldom that a hereditary prince, ventures to
+stand forth in the cause of freedom or independence; and a son of the
+house of Braganza, and a daughter of that of Austria, leading the way to
+the independence of this great empire, cannot but excite the love as
+well as the admiration of their fortunate subjects.</p>
+
+<p>The weather cleared up in the afternoon, and I went ashore to see if I
+could find any of my old friends, or hear any news; but all the English
+were gone to their country-houses, and the opera, the proper place for
+gossip, is shut, because it is Lent; so I returned to the brig, and
+found Lord Cochrane ready to go ashore to wait on the Emperor, who had
+come in from San Cristova&#335; to meet him at the palace in town. His
+Lordship and Captain Crosbie, who went with him, did not return till
+late, but then well pleased with their reception.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 14th</i>.&mdash;Another day of such heavy rain, that I have no chance of
+landing my invalid. Mr. May came on board, and told me I might have Sir
+T. Hardy's house for a few days, till I can get one for myself. He also
+gives us good accounts of the government, its finances, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>An embargo has been laid on all vessels to-day, to prevent the news of
+Lord Cochrane's arrival from reaching Bahia.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th</i>.&mdash;I went early ashore to prepare for leaving the brig. I observed
+two of the arches, under which the Emperor had passed on the day of
+coronation, designed in extremely good taste, and well executed. They
+are of course only temporary. Some more solid works have been executed,
+since I last saw Rio; new fountains opened, aqueducts repaired, all the
+forts and other public works visibly improved, and the streets new
+paved. There is besides every where an air of business, I carried
+Glennie ashore in the afternoon, and was foolish enough to feel very
+sorry to leave my fellow-passengers, and still more foolish to be vexed
+at the perfect indifference with which they saw me go: both perhaps
+natural enough. I, am once more without any one to lean to, and alone in
+the world with my melancholy charge; they, have business and pleasure
+before them.</p>
+
+<p>It was a fine evening, and the little voyage in the boat to Botafogo
+seemed to do Glennie good; but we had the mortification to find that
+neither the provisions I had bought in the town had arrived, nor the
+servant one of my friends had promised to procure me. So we were alone
+and supperless,&mdash;but, thank God, not helpless. I have learned so much in
+my wanderings as not to be dependent; and so, after a time, I had from
+the huckster&#8217;s shop in the neighbourhood a tolerable tea to give my
+invalid, and sent him to bed in pretty good spirits, and took time
+afterwards to be pretty miserable myself.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 20th</i>.&mdash;These past days I have employed in looking about for a
+house, and have succeeded, in receiving and returning the visits of my
+old acquaintance, and in being very unwell.</p>
+
+<p>I hear there is nothing yet settled about Lord Cochrane&#8217;s command. The
+world says that he was asked to serve under two Portuguese admirals and
+for Portuguese pay. Of course, these are terms he could never accept. I
+have not seen him, so am not sure about this. I suppose, however, it is
+true; or he would not still be living on board that dirty little brig in
+which we arrived.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st</i>.&mdash;Whatever difficulties were in the way of Lord Cochrane&#8217;s
+command, they are over. I have a note from him announcing that he hoists
+his flag at four o&#8217;clock this afternoon, on board the Pedro
+Primeiro.<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>22d</i>.&mdash;Captain Bourchier of His Majesty&#8217;s ship Beaver kindly lent me
+his boat to-day, to convey me with my cousin and my goods to my
+cottage on the Gloria hill, close to Mr. May's, and not very far from
+the house the government has given as a temporary residence to Lord
+Cochrane. It is pleasant to me on many accounts: it is cool, and there
+is a shady walk for the sick. It is almost surrounded by the sea, which
+breaks against the wall; and not being near any road, we shall be
+perfectly quiet here.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="corcovado" id="corcovado"></a><a href="images/015.png"><img src="images/015tb.png" alt="View of the Corcovado." />
+<br />View of the Corcovado.</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 28th</i>.&mdash;This has been a busy week, both to me and to my
+friends, who are hurrying every thing to get to sea as quickly as
+possible; as it is of the utmost consequence to free Bahia of the enemy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 29th</i>.&mdash;His Majesty's ship Tartar, Captain Brown, arrived
+to-day from England, bringing no good news of any kind. In the first
+place, Lord Cochrane suffers extreme distress on learning that Lady
+Cochrane and her infant daughter are on their way to Chile, so that they
+will have to perform the rough passage round Cape Horn twice before he
+sees them;&mdash;and in the next, Captain Brown gives a most formidable
+account of a Portuguese fleet bound for Bahia, which he met on this side
+of the line. I trust he is mistaken in the last, and I try to comfort
+Lord Cochrane as to the first piece of intelligence, by suggestions, of
+the probability, if not certainty, that the ship Lady Cochrane will sail
+in, must touch in this port; however, his natural anxiety is not to be
+overcome.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, March 31st</i>.&mdash;Yesterday the Pedro Primeiro dropped down the
+harbour, as far as Boa Viage, and to-day I went with Lord Cochrane on
+board of her. We found that the Emperor and Empress had been on board at
+daylight. On some of the Portuguese officers complaining that the
+English sailors had been drunk the day before, the Empress said, "Oh,
+'tis the custom of the North, where brave men come from. The sailors are
+under my protection; I spread my mantle over them." The Pedro Primeiro
+is a fine two-decker, without a poop. She has a most beautiful gun-deck;
+but I could not see her to advantage, as she was still taking in stores,
+and receiving men. Her cabins are beautifully fitted up with handsome
+wood and green morocco cushions, &amp;c.; and I am told the Emperor takes
+great pride in her. Captain Crosbie commands her; and three lieutenants
+who came with us from Chile are appointed to her.</p>
+
+<p><i>April 1st</i>.&mdash;I had expected the Admiral to breakfast with me; but, to
+my great disappointment, I saw the ship get under weigh, and sail. I
+afterwards learned that the Emperor and Empress were on board, and
+accompanied him out of the harbour as far as the light-house, so that he
+could not leave them. The morning was dull and grey when the Pedro
+Primeiro, the Maria da Gloria, the Una&#335;, and the Liberal got under
+weigh; but just as the little squadron came abreast of Santa Cruz, and
+the fort began to salute, the sun broke from behind a cloud, and a
+bright yellow flood of light descended behind the ships to the sea,
+where they seemed to swim in a sea of glory; and that was the last sight
+I had of my kind friend.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th</i>.&mdash;Nothing of any note or variety has taken place during these ten
+days. Glennie is gaining ground: I write and read, and attend to him.
+The Nitherohy sails to-morrow to join Lord Cochrane off Bahia, with
+three mortars on board, two 10, and one 13-inch. I find, with surprise,
+that the cartridges are still made up here in canvass, not flannel; and
+I fear that the ships are not so well found as I wish them: great part
+of the canvass and cordage have been seventeen years in store, and, I
+should fear, partly rotten. But all this is nothing to the evil
+attending the having Portuguese among the crews. 'Tis not natural they
+should fight against their countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>I have had the pleasure of reading Peveril of the Peak within these few
+days. 'Tis a sort of historical portrait, like Kenilworth, where the
+Duke of Buckingham, he who</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i5">"In one revolving moon<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was hero, fiddler, statesman, and buffoon,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>is the principal figure: Charles II. and the rest of the court serve for
+the black boy and parrot in costume; while the story of Peveril is
+nothing more than the carved-work frieze of the very pleasant apartment
+he has been placed in.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th</i>.&mdash;The Fly sloop of war, and the packet from England, came in and
+brought the news of the war between France and Spain. This news is, of
+course, interesting here, as Portugal is considered to be implicated in
+the disputes in Europe; and then, the part England may take, and how
+that may affect this country, is a subject of anxious speculation. The
+more domestic news is not quite agreeable. The Imperial General Lecor,
+in the south, has suffered some loss in an action with the Portuguese:
+however, it is not considerable enough to give any serious uneasiness.
+The same vessel that brought the news from Lecor, also gives
+intelligence that the head of the Buenos Ayrian government, Rodriguez,
+having taken the field against some Indian tribes, who have lately
+committed great ravages in his territories, an attempt was made by one
+of the ex-chiefs to subvert his government; happily, without success. I
+say happily, because I am convinced that every week and month passed
+without change, is of infinite consequence both to the present and
+future wellbeing of the Spanish colonies. While they had still to
+struggle for their independence, while they had to amend the abuses of
+their old government, frequent changes were unavoidable, but natural;
+but now that they are independent, and that they have constitutions,
+which, if not perfect, contain the principles of freedom and greatness,
+those principles should have time and peace to grow, and to suit
+themselves to the genius of the people.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th</i>.&mdash;Glennie has been gaining so much strength lately, that he has
+determined on joining the Commodore at Bahia; and this day he left me,
+to sail in His Majesty's ship Beaver.</p>
+
+<p>After having had him to attend to for six months, and being used to
+constant intercourse with an intelligent inmate, I feel so very lonely,
+that I believe I must leave off some of my sedentary habits, and visit a
+little among my neighbours.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th</i>.&mdash;A French brig of war came in to-day from Bahia. We learn that
+the ships seen by the Tartar were only a frigate, with a convoy of
+transports, on board of which was a reinforcement for Madeira of 1500
+men. They will but increase the distress of the garrison, which is
+represented as very great, as they have brought no provisions.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th</i>.&mdash;I spent the day with Miss Hayne, and accompanied her in the
+evening to compliment Dona Ana, the wife of Senhor Luis Jose de Carvalho
+e Mello, on her birth-day. The family were at their country-house at
+Botafogo; and a most excellent house it is, very handsomely built and
+richly furnished. The walls are decorated with French papers in
+compartments, with gold mouldings, and every thing corresponds. But the
+best decoration, was this night, the presence of a number of the
+handsomest women I have seen in Brazil, most of them sisters, or
+cousins, or nieces of the lady of the house, whose mother, the Baronesa
+de Campos, may boast of one of the finest families in the world. The
+daughter of the house, Dona Carlota, is distinguished here by talent and
+cultivation beyond her fellows. She speaks and writes French well, and
+has made no small progress in English. She knows the literature of her
+own country, draws correctly, sings with taste, and dances gracefully.
+Several of her cousins and aunts speak French fluently; so that I had
+the pleasure of conversing freely with them, and received a good deal of
+information on subjects that only women attend to. Soon after all the
+company was assembled, the ladies sitting all together in a formal
+circle, the gentlemen walking about generally in other rooms, the
+ceremony of tea-drinking commenced, and was conducted pretty much as in
+England; the servants handing round tea, coffee, and cakes, on broad
+silver salvers. But we all sat and took our refreshments at leisure,
+instead of standing with cups in our hands, and elbowing our way through
+crowds of persons, who all look as if they were bound on some particular
+business, and could scarcely afford time to recognise their passing
+acquaintance. We then adjourned to the music-room, where the
+music-master<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> attended to accompany the ladies, many of whom sang
+extremely well; but when it came to Dona Rosa's turn, I was ready to
+exclaim with Comus&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Can any mortal mixture of earth's mould<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Breathe such divine enchanting ravishment?"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The music ended, and who was not sorry at its conclusion? the dancing
+commenced, and then those who like myself were not dancers sat by to
+gossip. An Englishman who has been in this country many years, seeing me
+full of admiration of the beautiful and gay creatures before me, began
+to give me such a picture of the private morals in Brazil, as was
+beginning to darken their countenances and to dim their eyes, when
+luckily he went a step too far, and offered to wager, (the true English
+way of affirming,) that there were in that room not less than ten
+ladies, each provided with her note to slip into the hand of her
+gallant, and that the married and unmarried were alike; and referred me
+to my friend M&mdash;&mdash;, who has long been here, and knows the people well.
+He looked slowly round the room, and I began to fear,&mdash;but he said, "No,
+not here; though I do not deny that such things are done in Rio. But,
+Mrs. G., do not you know, as well as I, that in all great cities, in
+your country and in mine as well as in this, a certain portion of every
+class of society is less moral than the rest? In some countries
+immorality is more refined indeed; and when manners lose their
+grossness, they are stripped apparently of half their vice. But suppose
+the fact, that women, even the unmarried, are less pure here than in
+Europe, remember that with us, besides the mother, there is the nurse of
+the family, or the governess, or even the waiting-maid of every young
+woman, who is supposed to be well brought up, and of good character and
+morals. These are all checks on conduct, and form a guardianship only
+inferior to a mother's. But here the servants are slaves; therefore
+naturally the enemies of their masters, and ready and willing to deceive
+them, by assisting in the corruption of their families." Here then is
+another curse of slavery; and this view of the subject has opened my
+eyes on many points, on which I have hitherto been wondering ignorantly.</p>
+
+<p>There were several very pleasant French naval officers here to-night,
+and a few, very few English. I conversed with some sensible and
+well-bred Brazilians, so that I was scarcely aware of the lateness of
+the hour, when I left my younger friends dancing at midnight.</p>
+
+<p>While at the ball, the tragic story of two lovely girls was told me.
+When mere children, they had accompanied their mother to some gala, and
+on returning at night, just as the mother advanced from the carriage,
+she was shot from the veranda of her own house. All search for the
+murderer was vain: but conjecture points to two possible causes of the
+crime. One, the jealousy of a woman, who it seems had been injured, and
+who hoped to succeed her rival as the wife of the man she loved; but he
+has not married again. Another conjecture is, that she was acquainted
+with some political secrets, and that fear caused her death. However it
+was, the girls have ever since lived with their grandmother, who cannot
+sleep if they are not both in the room with her. The family attachments
+here are quite beautiful; they are as close and as intimate as those of
+clanship in Scotland: but they have their inconveniences, in the
+constant intermarriages between near relations, as uncles with their
+nieces, aunts with their nephews, &amp;c.; so that marriages, instead of
+widening connections, diffusing property, and producing more general
+relations in the country, seems to narrow all these, to hoard wealth,
+and to withdraw all the affections into too close and selfish a circle.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th</i>.&mdash;I went early to town, and found that the English packet had
+arrived. She fell in with Lord Cochrane's squadron near Bahia, so that
+His Lordship must be there long ere this time; she brings reports that
+the royalist party are becoming too strong for the Cortes at Lisbon.</p>
+
+<p>I spent the day with Madame do Rio Seco. Her house is really a
+magnificent one; it has its ball-room, and its music-room, its grotto
+and fountains, besides extremely handsome apartments of every kind, both
+for family and public use, with rather more china and French clocks than
+we should think of displaying, but which do not assort ill with the
+silken hangings and gilt mouldings of the rooms.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner was small, as we were only three persons, but excellently
+dressed. Soup of wild-fowl, a variety of small birds, and sweetmeats of
+the country, were rarities to me: the rest of the dinner might have been
+English or French; it was served in plate. I heard a great many
+anecdotes to-day of a great many persons of all degrees, for which M.
+Dutems would have given any price to enrich the <i>souvenirs</i> of the
+<i>voyageur qui se repose</i> withal, but which I will not write, because I
+think it neither honest nor womanly to take the protection of the laws
+and the feelings of a foreign country, and&mdash;record the foibles of its
+inhabitants so as to give others the opportunity of laughing at them. We
+know well enough the weak parts of human nature: if they are treated
+tenderly, they may mend. Vice indeed may require the lash, but weakness
+and folly should meet with indulgence. In a society rising like this, I
+am persuaded that men may be flattered into virtue. If a general calls
+his soldiers brave before the battle, it becomes a point of honour to
+prove so. And were it in my power, I had rather persuade the Brazilians
+that they have every virtue under heaven, than make them so familiar
+with the least of their failings, as to lose the shame of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 1st</i>.&mdash;I have this day seen the Val Longo; it is the slave-market
+of Rio. Almost every house in this very long street is a dep&ocirc;t for
+slaves. On passing by the doors this evening, I saw in most of them long
+benches placed near the walls, on which rows of young creatures were
+sitting, their heads shaved, their bodies emaciated, and the marks of
+recent itch upon their skins. In some places the poor creatures were
+lying on mats, evidently too sick to sit up. At one house the half-doors
+were shut, and a group of boys and girls, apparently not above fifteen
+years old, and some much under, were leaning over the hatches, and
+gazing into the street with wondering faces. They were evidently quite
+new negroes. As I approached them, it appears that something about me
+attracted their attention; they touched one another, to be sure that all
+saw me, and then chattered in their own African dialect with great
+eagerness. I went and stood near them, and though certainly more
+disposed to weep, I forced myself to smile to them, and look cheerfully,
+and kissed my hand to them, with all which they seemed delighted, and
+jumped about and danced, as if returning my civilities. Poor things! I
+would not, if I could, shorten their moments of glee, by awakening them
+to a sense of the sad things of slavery; but, if I could, I would appeal
+to their masters, to those who buy, and to those who sell, and implore
+them to think of the evils slavery brings, not only to the negroes but
+to themselves, not only to themselves but to their families and their
+posterity.</p>
+
+<p>After all, slaves are the worst and most expensive servants; and one
+proof of it is this, I think. The small patch that each is allowed to
+cultivate for his own use on many estates generally yields at least
+twice as much in proportion as the land of the master, though fewer
+hours of labour are bestowed upon it.<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> I have hitherto endeavoured,
+without success, to procure a correct statement of the number of slaves
+imported into all Brazil. I fear, indeed, it will be hardly possible for
+me to do so, on account of the distance of some of the ports; but I will
+not rest till I procure at least a statement of the number entered at
+the custom-house here during the last two years. The number of ships
+from Africa that I see constantly entering the harbour, and the
+multitudes that throng the slave-houses in this street, convince me that
+the importation must be very great. The ordinary proportion of deaths on
+the passage is, I am told, about one in five.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 3d</i>.&mdash;Early this morning the French naval captain, La Susse, called
+on me to take me in his boat to town, for the purpose of going to Senhor
+Luis Jose's house in the Rua do Ouvidor, to see the Emperor go in state
+to the opening of the Constituent and Legislative Assembly. All the
+great officers of state, all the gentlemen of the household, most of the
+nobility, and several regiments accompanied him. First marched the
+soldiers, then the carriages of the nobility and other persons having
+the entree, nobody driving more than a pair, such being the express
+order of the Emperor, in order that the rich might not mortify the poor;
+then the royal carriages, containing the household, the ladies of
+honour, and the young Princess Dona Maria da Gloria; the Emperor and
+Empress followed in a state-coach with eight mules. The crown was on the
+front seat. The Emperor wore the great cape of state, of yellow
+feathers, over his green robes. The Empress, much wrapped up on account
+of a recent indisposition, was seated by him, and the procession was
+closed by more troops.</p>
+
+<p>The carriages displayed to-day would form a curious collection for a
+museum in London or Paris. Some were the indescribable sort of caleche
+used here; and in the middle of these was a very gay pea-green and
+silver chariot, evidently built in Europe, very light, with silver
+ornaments, silver fellies to the wheels, silver where any kind of metal
+could be used, and beautiful embossed silver plates on the harness of
+the mules. Many other gala carriages seemed as if they had been built in
+the age of Louis XIV. Such things! mounted on horizontal leathern bands,
+and all other kind of savage hangings; besides paint and gilding, and,
+by-the-bye, some very handsome silver and silver gilt harnesses. Then
+there were splendid liveries, and all manner of gaudiness, not without
+some taste.</p>
+
+<p>The houses were hung with all the damask and satin of every colour that
+they could supply; and the balconies stored with ladies, whose bright
+eyes rain influence, dressed in gala dresses, with feathers and diamonds
+in profusion; and as the royal carriages passed, we waved our
+handkerchiefs, and scattered flowers on their heads.</p>
+
+<p>When the procession had passed, I found it was expected that we should
+await its return, which I was well pleased to do. My young friend Dona
+Carlota improves on acquaintance; and as I begin to venture to speak
+Portuguese, I am becoming intimate with the elder part of the family. I
+was taken into the study, and for the first time saw a Brazilian private
+gentleman's library. As he is a judge, of course the greater part is
+law; but there are history and general literature, chiefly French, and
+some English books. I was introduced to several Portuguese authors; and
+Don Carlota, who reads remarkably well, did me the favour to read some
+of Diniz's fine verses to me, and to lend me his works. We then returned
+to our station at the window, and saw the procession return in the order
+in which it came, when our pleasant party dispersed.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, the assembly having finished its preliminary sittings, sent a
+deputation, headed by Jose Bonifacio, to His Imperial Majesty, to
+entreat that he would honour the assembly with his presence at their
+first sitting as a legislative body, and he was pleased to name half
+past eleven o'clock to-day for that purpose.<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a></p>
+
+<p>This morning, therefore, the people of Rio de Janeiro had strewed the
+way with evergreens, sweet herbs, and flowers, from the bridge without
+the town by the street of St. Peter's, the Campo de Santa Anna, now
+Pra&ccedil;a da Acclama&ccedil;a&#335;, the Theatre Square, and the streets Do Ouvidor and
+Direita to the palace; troops lined the whole space; the houses were
+decorated, and the bands of the different regiments relieved each other
+as their Imperial Majesties passed. I observe the Brazilians never say
+<i>the</i> Emperor, but <i>our</i> Emperor, <i>our</i> Empress; and seldom name either,
+without some epithet of affection.</p>
+
+<p>In the House of Assembly, a throne had been prepared for the Emperor,
+and on his right hand a tribune for the Empress, the Princess, and their
+ladies. As soon as it was known that the Imperial party had arrived, a
+deputation from the assembly went to the door of the house to meet them,
+and conducted the Emperor, with his crown<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> on his head, to the
+throne; the Empress, Princess, and ladies, being at the same time placed
+in the tribune.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor having deposited the crown and sceptre with the proper
+officer, and received the oaths of several of the deputies, spoke as
+follows; and it was remarked, that so far from the speech having the air
+of a thing read from a paper or studied, that it was spoken as freely as
+if it was the spontaneous effusion of the moment, and excited a feeling
+as free in his favour.</p>
+
+<p>"This is the greatest day that Brazil has ever seen; a day on which, for
+the first time, it may show that it is an empire, and a free empire. How
+great is my delight, to behold real representatives from almost every
+one of its provinces, consulting together on its true interests, and on
+these founding a just and liberal constitution to govern them! We ought
+long since to have enjoyed a national representation. But either the
+nation did not in time perceive its real interests, or, perceiving them,
+was unable to declare them, on account of the forces and ascendancy of
+the Portuguese party; which, perceiving clearly to what a degree of
+weakness, littleness, and poverty, Portugal was reduced, and to how low
+a state it had fallen, would never consent (notwithstanding their
+proclamation of liberty, fearing a separation,) that the people of
+Brazil should enjoy a representation equal to what they themselves then
+possessed. They had miscalculated their plans for conquest, and from
+that miscalculation arises our good fortune.</p>
+
+<p>"Brazil, which for upwards of three hundred years had borne the
+degrading name of a colony, and had suffered all the evils arising from
+the destructive system then pursued, exulted with pleasure when my Lord
+Don John VI., King of Portugal and Algarve, my august father, raised it
+to the dignity of a kingdom, by his decree of the 16th of December,
+1815; but Portugal burned with rage, and trembled with fear. The delight
+which the inhabitants of this vast continent displayed on the occasion
+was unbounded; but the politic measure was not followed up, as it ought
+to have been, by another, that is, by the convocation of an assembly to
+organise the new kingdom.</p>
+
+<p>"Brazil, always frank in her mode of proceeding, and mortified at having
+borne the yoke of iron so long, both before and after that measure
+echoed the cry for the constitution of Portugal, immediately on the
+proclamation of liberty in Portugal; expecting that after this proof of
+confidence given to her pseudo brethren, they would assist her to
+deliver herself from the vipers that were consuming her entrails, and
+little thinking she should be deceived.</p>
+
+<p>"The Brazilians, who truly loved their country, never intended, however,
+to subject themselves to a constitution in which all had not a voice,
+and whose views were to convert them at once from free men into vile
+slaves. Nevertheless, the obstacles which, before the 26th April, 1821,
+opposed the liberties of Brazil, and which continued to exist, being
+maintained by the European troops, caused the people, fearing that they
+should never enjoy a representative assembly of their own, even for the
+very love of liberty, to follow the infamous Cortes of Portugal, and
+they even made the sacrifice of submitting to be insulted by the
+demagogue party which predominated in this hemisphere.</p>
+
+<p>"Even this availed not. We were so oppressed by the European forces,
+that I was obliged to send them to the opposite shore of the Rio; to
+blockade them; to force them to embark and pass the bar, in order to
+save the honour of Brazil, and to procure that liberty which we desire
+and ought to enjoy; but in vain shall we labour to procure it, if we
+permit to exist among us a party inimical to our true cause.</p>
+
+<p>"Scarcely were we well free from these enemies, when in a few days
+arrived another expedition, which Lisbon had sent for our protection;
+but I took upon myself to protect this empire, and I refused to receive
+it. Pernambuco did the same. And Bahia, which was the first place to
+unite with Portugal, as a reward for her good faith, and because she
+perceived too late the track she ought to have followed, now suffers
+under a cruel war for those Vandals; and her chief city, occupied only
+by them, is on the point of being rased, for they cannot maintain
+themselves there.</p>
+
+<p>"Such is the freedom Portugal sought to bestow on Brazil: it was to be
+converted into slavery for us; and would have ruined us totally if we
+had continued to execute her commands; which we must have done, but for
+the heroic remonstrances conveyed by petitions, first from the junta of
+government of St. Paul's, then from the camara of this capital, and
+afterwards from all the other juntas of government and camaras,
+imploring me to remain here. It appeared to me that Brazil would be
+ruined, if I did not attend to the petitions; and I did attend to them.
+I know that this was my duty, though at the risk of my life; but as it
+was in defence of this empire, it was ready, as it is now, and ever,
+when it shall be requisite.</p>
+
+<p>"I had scarcely pronounced the words, <i>As it is for the good of all, and
+the general happiness of the nation, tell the people that I remain</i>,
+recommending to them at the same time <i>union</i> and <i>tranquillity</i>, when I
+began to take measures to put ourselves in a state to meet the attacks
+of our enemies, then concealed, since unmasked; one part among
+ourselves, the rest in the Portuguese democratic Cortes; providing for
+all the departments, especially those of the treasury and foreign
+affairs, by such means as prudence dictated, and which I shall not
+mention here, because they will be laid before you in proper time by the
+different officers of state.</p>
+
+<p>"The public treasury was in the very worst state, as the receipts had
+been much reduced; and, principally, because till within four or five
+months they had been solely those of this province. On this account it
+was not possible to raise money for all that was necessary, as we had
+already too little to pay the public creditors, or those employed in
+effective service, and to maintain my household, which cost one-fourth
+of that of the King, my august father. His disbursements exceeded four
+millions; mine did not amount to one. But although the diminution was so
+considerable, I could not be satisfied when I found that my expenses
+were so disproportioned to the reduced receipts of the treasury; and
+therefore I resolved to live as a private man, receiving only 110,000
+milrees for the whole expenses of my household, excepting the allowance
+of the Empress, my much-beloved and valued wife, which was assigned to
+her by her marriage contract.</p>
+
+<p>"Not satisfied with these small savings in my household with which I
+commenced, I examined into every department, as was my duty, in order to
+regulate its expenditure, and to check its abuses. Yet, still the
+revenue did not suffice; but by changing some individuals not well
+affected to the cause of the empire, but only to that of the infamous
+Portuguese party, and who were continually betraying us, for others who
+loved Brazil with all their hearts,&mdash;some from birth and principle,
+others from the intimate conviction that the cause is that of reason,&mdash;I
+have caused, and I say it with pride, the bank, which was on the point
+of losing its credit, and threatened bankruptcy every moment,&mdash;as on the
+day of the departure of my august father, Don John VI., there only
+remained the sum of two hundred contos in money,&mdash;to discount its bills,
+to re-establish its credit so completely, that no one can imagine that
+it can ever fall again into the wretched state to which it had been
+reduced. The public treasury, which, on account of the extraordinary
+expenses which should have been borne in common by all the provinces,
+but which fell solely upon this, was totally exhausted, and without
+credit, has gained such credit, that it is already known in Europe; and
+so much cash, that the greater part of the creditors, and they were not
+few, or for trifling sums, have been so far satisfied, as that their
+houses have not suffered; that the public servants have no arrears due
+any more than the military on actual service; that the other provinces
+that have adhered to the holy cause,&mdash;not by force, but from conviction,
+for I love just liberty,&mdash;have been furnished for their defence with
+warlike stores, great part of which are newly purchased, besides those
+already in the arsenals; and, moreover, they have been assisted with
+money, because their funds did not cover their necessary expenses.</p>
+
+<p>"In a word, the province now yields from eleven to twelve millions; its
+produce, before the departure of my august father, having been at most
+from six to seven.</p>
+
+<p>"Among the extraordinary expenses are, the freights of the ships on
+board of which the different expeditions sent back to Lisbon were
+embarked; the purchase of several vessels; the repair of others; pay to
+civil and military officers who have arrived here on service, and to
+those expelled from the provinces for their private sufferings in the
+tumults there raised.</p>
+
+<p>"The expenditure has certainly been great: but hitherto, nevertheless,
+there remain untouched, the gratuitous contributions; the sequestrated
+property of the absentees on account of political opinions; the loan of
+400,000 milrees for the purchase of ships of war indispensably necessary
+for the defence of the empire, and which exists entire; and the
+exchequer of the administration of diamonds.</p>
+
+<p>"In every department there was an urgent necessity for reform; but in
+this of finance still more, because it is the chief spring of the state.</p>
+
+<p>"The army had neither arms, men, nor discipline: with regard to arms, it
+is now perfectly ready; the men are increasing daily in proportion to
+the population; and in discipline it will soon be perfect, being already
+in obedience exemplary. I have twice sent assistance to Bahia: first 240
+men, then 735, forming a battalion called the Emperor's Battalion; which
+in eight days was chosen, prepared, and sailed.</p>
+
+<p>"Besides these, a foreign regiment has been raised, and a battalion of
+artillery of freed men, which will shortly be completed.</p>
+
+<p>"In the military arsenal they have wrought diligently to prepare every
+thing necessary for the defence of the different provinces; and all,
+<i>from Paraiba of the North to Montevideo</i>, have received the assistance
+they have requested.</p>
+
+<p>"The walls of the fortifications of this city were totally ruined: they
+are now repaired; and important works necessary in the arsenal itself
+have been finished.</p>
+
+<p>"As to military works, the walls of all the fortresses have been
+repaired, and some entirely new-constructed. These are formed in the
+different points fittest to oppose any enemy's force approaching by sea;
+and in the defiles of the hills, to oppose the approach of an enemy
+already landed, (which would not be easy,) entrenchments, forts,
+redoubts, abatis, and batteries. The barracks of the Carioca are built,
+and the other barracks are prepared. That in the Pra&ccedil;a da Acclama&ccedil;a&#335; is
+almost finished, and that ordered for the grenadiers will shortly be
+so.</p>
+
+<p>"The fleet consisted only of the frigate Piranga, then called the Union,
+not fitted; the corvette Liberal, only a hull; and of a few other small
+and insignificant vessels. Now we have the ship of the line, Pedro
+Primeiro; the frigates Piranga, Carolina, and Netherohy; the corvettes
+Maria da Gloria and Liberal, ready; a corvette, in Alagoas, which will
+soon be ready, named the Massai&oacute;: of the brigs of war, Guarani ready,
+and the Cacique and Caboclo under repair; besides several ships in
+ordinary, and various schooners.</p>
+
+<p>"I expect six frigates of fifty guns, manned and armed, and completely
+formed for action, for the purchase of which I have already given
+orders; and according to the information I have received, they will not
+cost above thirteen contos of rees.</p>
+
+<p>"In the dock-yard, the works are the following:&mdash;all the ships now
+actually employed have been repaired; gun-boats, and others of small
+size, which I need not name, have been built; and many others, which,
+altogether, are numerous and important.</p>
+
+<p>"I intend this year, in the same place, where for thirteen years back
+nothing has been done but caulking, rigging, and careening
+vessels,&mdash;swallowing immense sums, which might have been more usefully
+employed for the nation,&mdash;to lay down the keel of a forty-gun frigate;
+which, if the calculation I have made, the orders I have given, and the
+measures I have taken do not fail, I hope will be finished this year, or
+in the middle of the next, and will be called the <i>Campista</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"As to public works, much has been done. The police office in the Pra&ccedil;a
+da Acclama&ccedil;a&#335; has been rebuilt: that large square has been drained of
+the marsh water, and has become an agreeable walk, with paved paths on
+all sides, and others across, and we are still continuing to embellish
+it. The greater part of the aqueduct of Carioca and Maracana&#335;, have been
+repaired; besides the numerous bridges of wood and stone which have been
+renewed, several new ones have been made, and a great extent of roads
+has been mended.</p>
+
+<p>"Besides what I have mentioned, and much more which I have not touched
+on, the funds for these works, which in April, 1821, owed 60 contos of
+rees, now is not only out of debt, but possesses upwards of 600,000
+crusadoes.</p>
+
+<p>"In different departments we have made the following progress. We have
+greatly increased the national typography; the public gardens have been
+put in order; the museum repaired, and enriched with minerals and a
+gallery of good pictures,&mdash;some of which were purchased, some were
+already in the public treasury, and others were my private property,
+which I have ordered to be placed there.</p>
+
+<p>"Every exertion has been made on the Caes da Pra&ccedil;a de Commercio, so that
+it is nearly finished; the streets of the city have been new-paved; and
+in a very short time this house for the assembly, with all the rest
+adjoining, were properly fitted for their purpose.</p>
+
+<p>"Many works which are of less importance have been undertaken, begun,
+and finished; but I omit them, that I may not render my speech too long.</p>
+
+<p>"I have encouraged the public schools, as far as I could; but this will
+demand some peculiar provision of the legislature. What has been done is
+this:&mdash;In order to augment the public library I have bought a large
+collection of choice books; I have augmented the number of schools, and
+increased the salary of some of the masters, besides licensing
+innumerable private schools; and, aware of the benefits of the method of
+mutual instruction, I have opened a Lancasterian school.</p>
+
+<p>"I found the college of San Joaquim, which had been designed by its
+founders for the education of youth, employed as the hospital of the
+European troops. I caused it to be opened anew, for the purposes
+originally intended; and having granted to the <i>Casa de Misericordia</i>,
+and the foundling hospital, of which I will speak farther, a lottery for
+the better maintenance of those useful institutions, I assigned a
+certain portion of the said lottery to the college of San Joaquim, that
+it might the better answer the useful end which its worthy founders had
+in view. It is now full of students.</p>
+
+<p>"The first time I visited the foundling hospital, I found (and it seems
+incredible) seven infants with only two wet-nurses; no beds, no
+clothing: I called for the register, and found that in the last thirteen
+years nearly 12,000 children had been received, but scarcely 1000 were
+forthcoming, the Misericordia not knowing in fact what had become of
+them. Then by granting the lottery, a house proper for the establishment
+was built, where there are upwards of thirty beds, almost as many nurses
+as children, and on the whole, much better management. All these things
+of which I have now spoken merit your particular attention.&mdash;After this
+province was settled, and important provisions made for the rest, I felt
+it necessary to call together a council of state; and, therefore, by the
+degree of the 16th of February of last year, I convoked one, composed of
+procurators-general, chosen by the people, being desirous that they
+should have some persons near me to represent them, and who might at the
+same time advise me, and demand such things as should be conducive to
+the good of each of the respective provinces. Nor was this the only end
+and motive for which I called such a council together: I wished
+particularly that the Brazilians might know my constitutional feelings.
+How I delighted to govern to the satisfaction of the people, and how
+much my paternal heart desired (though at that time secretly, because
+circumstances did not then permit me to manifest such wishes,) that this
+loyal, grateful, brave, and heroic nation, should be represented in a
+general constituent and legislative assembly; which, thank God, has been
+brought about in consequence of the degree of the 3d of June of the last
+year, at the request of the people conveyed through their camaras, their
+procurators, and my counsellors of state!</p>
+
+<p>"It has been very painful to me that, till now, Brazil should not have
+enjoyed a national representation, and to be forced by circumstances to
+take upon myself to legislate on some points: but my measures cannot
+appear to have arisen from ambition to legislate, arrogating to myself
+the whole power, of which I only could claim a part&mdash;for they were taken
+to save Brazil,&mdash;because when some of them were adopted the assembly
+had not been convoked, and when others were necessary it had not yet
+met; therefore, as Brazil was totally independent of Portugal, the three
+powers then existed in fact and by right in the person of the supreme
+chief of the nation, and much the more as he was its perpetual defender.</p>
+
+<p>"It is true that some measures appeared extremely strong; but as the
+peril was imminent, and the enemies who surrounded us were innumerable
+(and would to God they were not even now so many), it was necessary they
+should be proportionate.</p>
+
+<p>"I have not spared myself; nor will I ever spare toil, however great, if
+from it the smallest portion of happiness can be derived to the nation.</p>
+
+<p>"When the people of the rich and majestic province of <i>Minas</i> were
+suffering under the iron yoke of their mistaken governors, who disposed
+of it as they pleased, and obliged the pacific and gentle inhabitants to
+disobey me, I marched thither, only attended by my servants: I convicted
+the government and its creatures of the crime they had committed, and of
+the error in which they seemed desirous of persisting; I pardoned them,
+because the crime was more an offence against me, than against the
+nation, as we were then united to Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>"When a party of Portuguese and degenerate Brazilians attached to the
+Cortes of miserable, worn-out Portugal, arose among the brave people of
+the beautiful and delightful province of St. Paul's, I instantly
+repaired thither, and entered the province <i>fearlessly, because I knew
+the people loved me</i>. I took the measures that appeared to me to be
+necessary; and there, before any other place, our independence was
+declared, in the ever-memorable plain of Piranga.</p>
+
+<p>"It was at the country seat of the most faithful, and never-enough
+praised Amador Bueno de Rebeira, that I was first proclaimed Emperor.</p>
+
+<p>"My soul itself was grieved that I could not go to Bahia, as I had
+intended, but which I did not do on the remonstrance of my privy
+council, to mingle my blood with that of those warriors who have so
+bravely fought for their country.</p>
+
+<p>"At all hazards, at that of life itself, if necessary, I will maintain
+the title that the people of this rich and vast empire honoured me with
+on the 13th of May, of the past year&mdash;<span class="smcap">Perpetual Defender of Brazil</span>. That
+title engaged my heart more, than all the splendour I acquired by their
+spontaneous and unanimous acclamation of me as Emperor of this desirable
+empire.</p>
+
+<p>"Thanks be to Providence, that we now see the nation represented by such
+worthy deputies! Would to God it could have been so earlier! But the
+circumstances preceding the decree of the 3d of June did not permit it;
+and since that time, the great distance, the want of public spirit in
+some, and the inconveniences of long journeys, especially in a country
+so new and extensive as Brazil, have retarded this much-wished and
+necessary meeting, notwithstanding all my repeated recommendations of
+speed.</p>
+
+<p>"At length the great day for this vast empire has arisen, which will be
+the grand epocha of its history. <i>The assembly is met to constitute the
+nation: what joy&mdash;what happiness for us all!</i></p>
+
+<p>"As <span class="smcap">Constitutional Emperor</span>, and most especially as <span class="smcap">Perpetual Defender</span> of
+this vast empire, I told the people on the 1st of December, the day when
+I was crowned and anointed, '<i>That with my sword I would defend the
+country, the nation, and the constitution, if it were worthy of Brazil
+and of me</i>." I this day, in your presence, most solemnly ratify this
+promise, and I trust you will assist me in fulfilling it, by framing a
+wise, just, and practicable constitution, dictated by reason, not
+caprice; and having solely in view the general happiness, which can
+never be great if the constitution be not founded on solid grounds,
+grounds which the wisdom of ages has shown to be just, in order to give
+true liberty to the people, and sufficient strength to the executive
+power. A constitution in which the limits of the three powers shall be
+well defined, that they may never arrogate rights not their own; but
+shall be so organised and harmonised, that it shall be impossible for
+them, even in the lapse of time, to become inimical to each other, but
+shall every day jointly contribute to the general happiness of the
+state. In short, a constitution which shall oppose insuperable barriers
+to despotism, whether royal, aristocratic, or democratic; defeat
+anarchy; and plant that tree of liberty under whose shadow the honour,
+tranquillity, and independence of this empire, which will become the
+admiration of the Old and New World, must grow.</p>
+
+<p>"All the constitutions which have modelled themselves upon those of 1791
+and 1792, have been shown by experience to be entirely theoretical and
+metaphysical, and therefore impracticable. Witness those of France,
+Spain, and Portugal: they have not, as they ought, produced public
+happiness; but after a licentious freedom, we see that in some countries
+there has already taken place, and in others there is on the point of
+doing so, a despotism of one, after that of many; and, by a necessary
+consequence, the people are reduced to the wretched state of registering
+and suffering all the horrors of anarchy.</p>
+
+<p>"But far from us be such melancholy reflections: they darken the joy and
+exultation of this happy day. You are not ignorant of them; and I am
+sure, that firmness in those true constitutional views, which have been
+sanctioned by experience, will characterise every one of the deputies
+who compose this illustrious assembly. I trust, that the constitution
+which you will frame will merit my Imperial assent; that it will be as
+wise and just as suited to the local situation and to the civilisation
+of the Brazilian people: also that it may be praised among the nations,
+so that even our enemies may imitate the sanctity and wisdom of its
+principles, and at length practise them.</p>
+
+<p>"So illustrious and patriotic an assembly will have in view no object
+but to cause the empire to prosper, and to fill it with happiness: it
+will wish its Emperor to be respected, not only at home but among
+foreign nations; and that its <i>Perpetual Defender</i> should exactly
+fulfil his promise of the first of last December, solemnly ratified
+to-day, in the presence of the nation legally represented."</p>
+
+<p>When the Emperor had done speaking, the bishop of the diocese, acting as
+president of the assembly, made a short answer of thanks, praise, and
+promise; after which, the whole of the members, the spectators in the
+galleries, and the people without doors, cheered His Imperial Majesty
+enthusiastically, and the procession returned to San Cristova&#335; in the
+order in which it came.</p>
+
+<p>The theatre of course concluded the ceremonies of the day; and my
+friend, Madame do Rio Seco, having kindly offered me a seat in her box,
+I went thither, for the first time since my return to Brazil. She was in
+high spirits, because that day the Emperor had conferred on her husband
+the order of the Cruzeiro; and therefore she went really in grand gala
+to the opera. Her diamonds worn that night may be valued at 150,000<i>l</i>
+sterling, and many splendid jewels remained behind in the strong box.
+For my part, I had gone to town in my morning dress; therefore I sent to
+a milliner's, and bought such a plain crape head-dress as the customs of
+the place warrant, in deep mourning; and wrapping myself in my shawl,
+accompanied my magnificent friend. The house appeared very splendid,
+being illuminated and dressed, and the ladies one and all in diamonds
+and feathers. Some decorations have been added since last year, and an
+allegorical drop-scene has been painted. The Empress did not come, on
+account of her recent illness; but the Emperor was there, looking pale,
+and a little fatigued. He was received with rapturous applause. The
+members of the assembly were seated one-half on his right, and one-half
+on his left, in boxes handsomely fitted up for them; and as soon as they
+had all taken their places, a poem on the occasion was recited by the
+Prima Donna, in which there were some good points, which called forth
+great applause. I think it is Gresset who, in one of his odes <i>Au Roi</i>,
+says,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Le cri d'un peuple heureux est la seule &eacute;loquence<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qui sait parler des rois."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And indeed this night that eloquence was powerful. I cannot conceive a
+situation more full of interest to both prince and people.</p>
+
+<p>There was nothing in the principal piece played to-night, for it was a
+clumsy translation of Lodoiska, without the songs. But the after-piece
+excited much emotion: it was called "The Discovery of Brazil." Cabral
+and his officers were represented as just landed: they had discovered
+the natives of the country; and, according to the custom of the
+Portuguese discoverers, they had set up their white flag, with the red
+holy cross upon it, whence they had first named the land. At the foot of
+this emblem they kneeled in worship, and endeavoured to induce the wild
+Brazilians to join them in their sacred rites. These, on their part,
+tried to persuade Cabral to reverence the heavenly bodies, and
+dissension seemed about to trouble the union of the new friends, when by
+a clumsy enough machine, a little genius came down from above, and
+leaping from its car, displayed the new Imperial standard, inscribed
+<i>Independencia o Morte</i>. This was totally unexpected in the house,
+which, for an instant, seemed electrified into silence. I believe I
+clapped my hands first, but the burst of feeling that came from every
+part of the house was long ere it subsided. Now I know nothing so
+overpowering, as that sort of unanimous expression of deep interest,
+from any large body of men. It overset me; and when I ought to have been
+waving my handkerchief decorously from the great chamberlain's box, I
+was hiding my face with it, and weeping heartily. When the house was
+quiet again, I looked at Don Pedro: he had become very pale, and had
+drawn a chair close to his own; on the back of which he leaned, and was
+very grave to the end of the piece, having his hand before his eyes for
+some time; and, indeed, his quick feelings could not have escaped what
+affected even strangers.</p>
+
+<p>At the close of the piece there were loud cries of "Viva la Patria!"
+"Viva o Emperador!" "Viva a Emperatriz!" "Viva&#335; os Deputados!" all
+originating in the body of the house; when Martim Francisco de Andrada
+stepped to the front of one of the boxes of the Deputies, and cried
+"Viva o povo leal e fiel do Rio de Janeiro!" a cry that was extremely
+well seconded, especially by the Emperor, and kindly taken by the
+people; and so this important day ended.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 6th.</i>&mdash;To-day I rode to San Cristova&#335;, through a very beautiful
+country. The palace, which once belonged to a convent, is placed upon a
+rising ground, and is built rather in the Moresco style, and coloured
+yellow with white mouldings. It has a beautiful screen, a gateway of
+Portland stone, and the court is planted with weeping willows; so that a
+group of great beauty is formed in the bosom of a valley, surrounded by
+high and picturesque mountains, the chief of which is the Beco do
+Perroquito.<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> The view from the palace opens to part of the bay, over
+an agreeable plain flanked by fertile hills, one of which is crowned by
+the very handsome barracks that were once a Jesuit establishment. I rode
+round by the back of the palace to the farm, which appears to be in good
+order; and the village of the slaves, with its little church, looks more
+comfortable than I could have believed it possible for a village of
+slaves to do. The Imperial family now live entirely here, and only go to
+town on formal business or occasions of state.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 12th.</i>&mdash;I have been too unwell to do any thing; and only write
+to-day to notice the arrival of the Jupiter frigate, with Lord Amherst
+on his way to India, and the rumour that he has some official character
+at this court.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th.</i>&mdash;Lord Amherst and suite went to court in such ceremony as
+induces people to believe he really has a diplomatic character here. The
+Alacrity has arrived from Valparaiso, and has brought me some old
+letters from England that have helped my sickness to depress my spirits.
+'Tis after all a sad thing to be alone and sick in a foreign land! The
+Doris also is arrived from Bahia. She has had no direct communication
+with Lord Cochrane's little squadron; but it seems, that with his six
+ships, he keeps the enemy's fleet of fifteen sail in check. The town of
+Bahia is said to be in a dreadful state for want of provisions. The
+slaves are daily dying in the streets. Some houses, after appearing shut
+up for some days, have been opened by the police officers, who have
+found the masters escaped, and the slaves dead.&mdash;Twice a day the gates
+have been opened to allow the women and children to leave the town. Some
+of the officers of the Doris had the curiosity to attend on one of these
+occasions, and saw 500 persons, laden with as much furniture and
+clothes, as in their weak hungry state they could carry, leave the city.
+The little fresh provision that finds its way into the town is
+exorbitantly dear. General Madeira has proclaimed martial-law in the
+place; he has seized some corn and flour out of a neutral ship, and has
+raised forced loans from all classes, both native and foreign.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="palace" id="palace"></a><a href="images/016.png"><img src="images/016tb.png" alt="San Cristovao" /><br />
+San Cristova&#335;.</a></p>
+
+<p>The ship has brought two or three newspapers from Bahia. As might be
+expected, they breathe the most violent, and inveterate spirit against
+the Imperial government, and every body employed by it; calling the
+Emperor a Turkish despot, a sultan, &amp;c., and Jos&eacute; Bonifacio a tyrannic
+vizier. Lord Cochrane, of course, does not escape; and to all old
+calumnies against him, they now add that he is a coward, for which
+agreeable compliments they are likely to pay dearly I should think. The
+Supplement to the Idade d'Ouro of the 25th of April gives lists of the
+two squadrons, drawn up for the purpose of inspiring confidence in the
+Portuguese, under-rating the force of Lord Cochrane's ships, and
+representing them as so ill manned,&mdash;although, according to them, the
+most oppressive measures were adopted to man them,&mdash;as not to be able to
+face the Portuguese. However, they have thought fit to call in all their
+vessels from the Funil and other stations where they had their small
+ships placed, in order to reinforce their fleet.<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> They have
+published a circular letter, calling on all officers and crews to exert
+themselves, promising them the destruction of the Brazilian fleet. And,
+on the same day, the 24th of April, the Admiral Joa&#335; Felix Pereira de
+Campos, under pretence of indisposition, turns over the command to
+another officer.</p>
+
+<p>These measures were adopted, in consequence of the news of Lord
+Cochrane's arrival in Brazil having been conveyed to General Madeira by
+His Britannic Majesty's ship Tartar, the only vessel that sailed from
+Rio during the time of the embargo. We are becoming very anxious indeed
+for news from His Lordship: many rumours are afloat; but as there has
+been no direct communication from the squadron, they only increase the
+general anxiety.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 17th</i>.&mdash;Soon after I arrived here, in March, or rather as soon as
+my patient Glennie left me, I felt that, as a stranger here, and
+situated as I am, I was peculiarly unprotected, and therefore I spoke to
+the minister Jos&eacute; Bonifacio, telling him my feelings; and saying, that
+from the amiable character of the Empress, I should wish to be allowed
+to wait on her, and to consider her as protecting me while I remain in
+the empire. She accordingly promised to fix a day for me to see her; but
+a severe indisposition has hitherto confined her to her room. Now, Lady
+Amherst having requested to see Her Imperial Majesty, the day after
+to-morrow is fixed on for the purpose; and I have an intimation that I
+shall be received on the same day, as the Empress wishes not to receive
+any other foreigner before me. This is polite, or rather it is more; it
+is really kind.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th</i>.&mdash;Though I was suffering exceedingly this morning, I resolved
+nevertheless to attend the Empress at noon, at San Cristova&#335;. I was
+obliged to take a quantity of opium, to enable me to do so. However, I
+arrived at the appointed time; and, as I had been desired to do, asked
+for the <i>camarista m&ocirc;r</i>, Jose Bonifacio's sister, and was shown into the
+presence-chamber, where I found that lady and Lady Amherst, Miss
+Amherst, and Mrs. Chamberlain. The Empress entered shortly after, in a
+handsome morning dress of purple satin, with white ornaments, and
+looking extremely well. Mrs. Chamberlain presented Lady and Miss
+Amherst; and Her Imperial Majesty spoke for some minutes with Her
+Ladyship. After which she motioned to me to go to her, which I did. She
+spoke to me most kindly; and said, in a very flattering way, that she
+had long known me by name, and several other things that persons in her
+rank can make so agreeable by voice and manner; and I left her with the
+most agreeable impressions. She is extremely like several persons whom I
+have seen of the Austrian Imperial family, and has a remarkably sweet
+expression.</p>
+
+<p>The corridor through which I passed from the palace steps, and the
+presence-room, are both plain and handsome. As it might be called a
+private audience, there were neither guards, officers, nor attendants,
+excepting the camarista m&ocirc;r.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor is at present at his country-house of Santa Cruz; so that
+San Cristova&#335; appeared like a private gentleman's seat, it was so still.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, June 7th</i>.&mdash;Since the day I was at San Cristova&#335;, I have been
+confined to my room, and totally unable to exert myself, either mind or
+body, from severe indisposition. The Creole is come in from Bahia, to
+get provisions, preparatory to going home. The Commodore has offered me
+a passage in her, and has written to that purpose; but I am in no state
+to embark for a long voyage. The accounts from Bahia are sadder than
+ever: as to the Bahians, though favourable to the Imperial cause the
+misery, of the poor inhabitants is great indeed.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;We have been for three days kept in a state of agitation, by
+reports that Bahia has fallen, and various rumours attending those
+reports: they all turn out to have arisen from a <i>russe de guerre</i> of
+Madeira, who contrived to despatch a small vessel to a port on the coast
+for flour, pretending that it was for Lord Cochrane, and spreading that
+report to cover its real purpose.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d.</i>&mdash;A brig, prize to the squadron, arrived, and also the Sesostris,
+a merchant ship bound to Valparaiso, on board of which were Lady
+Cochrane and her family going to Chile. Thank God, by putting in here,
+she has learned where Lord Cochrane is, and is thus spared the tedious
+voyage, and her excellent husband much anxiety on her account.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th.</i>&mdash;At length we have true news both from and of Lord Cochrane. I
+wrote to Lady Cochrane, excusing myself on account of illness from going
+to her, and she kindly called on me as she landed; and a few minutes
+afterwards I received letters from the Admiral, and from some others in
+the squadron.</p>
+
+<p>As might have been expected, from the haste in which the squadron was
+equipped, the ships had to encounter some difficulties at first. Some of
+the sails and cordage, which had been seventeen years in store, were
+found almost unserviceable; the guns of some of the ships were without
+locks, as the Portuguese had not adopted them: the cartridges were
+mostly made up in canvass: but the real evil was the number of
+Portuguese, both men and officers, among the crews, which kept them in a
+continual state of discontent, if not mutiny.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Cochrane had chosen as head-quarters for the squadron, the harbour
+behind the Moro of San Paulo, about thirty miles south of Bahia, and
+commanding the channel behind Itaparica; a country well watered and
+wooded, and in the neighbourhood of all supplies of fresh necessaries.
+There is good and sheltered anchorage in from seven to twenty fathoms
+water, and on the whole it was well adapted for its purpose. As soon as
+it was known that His Lordship was off Bahia, the Portuguese squadron
+came out, and spread itself along the shore north of the bay. Lord
+Cochrane, who had waited in vain at the place of rendezvous at sea for
+the two fire-ships, which he expected from Rio, had fitted one of his
+small vessels, the schooner Real, as a fire-ship, and had intended to
+run into Bahia on the 4th of May; when he fell in with the Portuguese
+fleet, in number thirteen<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a>, he having with him five ships, a brig,
+and the fire vessel. He instantly ran through their line, cutting off
+the four sternmost ships; and had the men done their duty, nothing could
+have saved the ship they were first alongside of: but they fired too
+soon; and though the fire did great execution, wounding and killing
+many, both on board that ship and the Joam VI., which was immediately to
+the windward of the Pedro, yet the Admiral was disappointed. The slow
+sailing of the Piranga and Netherohy kept them farther behind the Pedro
+than their brave commanders wished; the others were forced to keep
+aloof, it is said, by the conviction that their crews could not be
+trusted against the Portuguese. As to the crew of the Admiral's ship,
+two of the Portuguese marines went into the magazine passage, and with
+their drawn swords impeded the handing up the powder. The squadrons
+separated after this. Lord Cochrane determined to attack the Portuguese
+again next day. Captain Crosbie, Lieutenant Shepherd, and eleven others
+were wounded; but no other damage was sustained by the Imperial
+squadron, while that of the Europeans had suffered much both in crews
+and rigging.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 5th, Lord Cochrane looked in vain for the enemy.
+He had apparently been satisfied with the skirmish of the 4th, and had
+taken refuge in the harbour; so that His Lordship returned to the Moro
+de San Paulo, with only the satisfaction of having driven the enemy from
+the open sea.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the Brazilian Imperial force that was posted behind the city,
+taking advantage of the absence of the fleet, and consequently of the
+two thousand seamen who served the artillery ashore, advanced from the
+sitio of Brotas, where their centre was quartered, towards the town.
+Madeira marched out to meet them, and an action took place entirely in
+favour of the Imperialists; and it is said that the King's fleet was
+recalled in consequence of this disaster.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Cochrane had no sooner returned to San Paulo than he made such
+provisions with regard to his squadron, as he judged most prudent for
+the public service. The vessel that has arrived here has brought down
+some of the ill-affected Portuguese. All, I believe, from the report of
+the officer who arrived in the prize, have been dismissed from the Pedro
+Primero.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Cochrane has taken the officers and English seamen of the Piranga
+and Nitherohy on board the Pedro, so that now he has one ship he may
+depend on: he has exchanged the eighteen-pound guns of the main-deck,
+for the twenty-four pounders of the Piranga, and has placed guns along
+his gang-ways; and we trust the next news we have from him, we shall
+learn something favourable to the cause of independence.</p>
+
+<p>As far as the government here could supply every thing to the squadron
+to insure its success, it was done in the most liberal manner; and the
+failures, where they occurred, were owing to the peculiar circumstances
+of the times and country, which admitted of no controul. That some
+things should have been imperfect was to be expected: that so much
+should have been done, and well done, excites admiration. But the
+Emperor appreciates the brave man who commands his fleet; and while that
+is the case, a difficulty as soon as felt will be obviated.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th</i>.&mdash;My health grows worse and worse. The Creole sailed to-day. I
+have amused myself for two days with some English newspapers. If any
+thing can rouse me to health it surely ought to be news from England.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Althorp has, I see, made a spirited but ineffectual effort for the
+repeal of the foreign enlistment bill; a most interesting subject in
+this country: and I see with pleasure a virtual acknowledgment from the
+English ministers of the independence of Spanish America.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d</i>.&mdash;This is the eve of St. John's, whereon the maidens of Brazil
+practise some of the same rites as those of Scotland do at Hallowe'en,
+to ascertain the fate of their loves. They burn nuts together; they put
+their hands, blindfold, on a table, with the letters of the alphabet;
+and practise many a simple conjuration. I think I recollect long ago, to
+have seen the maid-servants of a house in Berkshire place an herb, I
+think a kind of stone-crop, behind the door, calling it Midsummer men,
+that was to chain the favoured youth as he entered. For me I only wish
+for the <i>nucca</i> drop of the Arab to fall this night, so I might catch
+it, and be relieved from my weary sickness.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 26th</i>.&mdash;My friend, Dr. Dickson, who has attended me all this time
+with unvarying kindness, having advised change of air for me, he and Mr.
+May have pitched on a small house on Botafogo beach, having an upper
+story, which is considered as an advantage here, the ground-floor houses
+being often a little damp; and to-day Captain Willis of the Brazen
+brought me in his boat to my new dwelling. My good neighbours, Colonel
+and Mrs. Cunningham, try by their hospitality to prevent my feeling so
+much the loss of my friends Mr. and Mrs. May, who were every thing kind
+to me while at the Gloria.</p>
+
+<p>Botafogo bay is certainly one of the most beautiful scenes in the world;
+but, till of late years, its shores were little inhabited by the higher
+classes of society. At the farthest end there is a gorge between the
+Corcovado mountain and the rocks belonging to what may be called the
+Sugar-loaf group, which leads to the Lagoa of Rodrigo Freites, through
+which gorge a small rivulet of fine fresh water runs to the sea. Just at
+its mouth, there has long been a village inhabited by gipsies, who have
+found their way hither, and preserve much of their peculiarity of
+appearance and character in this their trans-atlantic home. They conform
+to the religion of the country in all outward things, and belong to the
+parish of which the curate of Nossa Senhora da Monte is pastor; but
+their conformity does not appear to have influenced their moral habits.
+They employ their slaves in fishing, and part of their families is
+generally resident at their settlements; but the men rove about the
+country, and are the great horse-jockies of this part of Brazil. Some of
+them engage in trade, and many are very rich, but still they are reputed
+thieves and cheats; and to call a man <i>Zingara</i> (gipsy) is as much as to
+call him knave. They retain their peculiar dialect; but I have not been
+able, personally, to get sufficiently acquainted with them to form any
+judgment of the degree in which their change of country and climate may
+have affected their original habits.</p>
+
+<p>His Majesty's ship Beaver arrived, two days since from Bahia. It seems
+that Madeira, unable to hold the place any longer, is resolved to leave
+it. He is pressed to the utmost by Lord Cochrane's squadron, which cuts
+off his provisions, and by continual alarms kept up on the coast, by His
+Lordship's own appearance from sea, and by the preparations he is making
+in the Reconcave for an attack with fire-ships and gun-boats on the
+town. It is expected, therefore, that Madeira will abandon the place as
+soon as he can get shipping together to embark the troops. It is
+asserted even that he has fixed the day, that of San Pedro, for
+evacuating the place. The following proclamation is certainly
+preparatory to his doing so; but as the time must depend on
+contingencies, it cannot be so certain:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>"Inhabitants of Bahia!</p>
+
+<p>"The crisis in which we find ourselves is perilous, because the means of
+subsistence fail us, and we cannot secure the entrance of any
+provisions. My duty as a soldier, and as governor, is to make every
+sacrifice in order to save the city; but it is equally my duty to
+prevent in an extreme case the sacrifice of the troops that I command,
+of the squadron, and of yourselves. I shall employ every means to fulfil
+both these duties. Do not suffer yourselves to be persuaded that
+measures of foresight are always followed by disasters. You have already
+seen me take such once before: they alarmed you; but you were afterwards
+convinced that they portended nothing extraordinary. Even in the midst
+of formidable armies, measures of precaution are daily used; because
+victory is not constant, and reverses should be provided against. You
+may assure yourselves, that the measures I am now taking are purely
+precautionary: but it is necessary to communicate them to you, because
+if it happens that we must abandon the city, many of you will leave it
+also; and I should be responsible to the nation and to the King, if I
+had not forewarned you.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (Signed)</p>
+
+<p class="r"><span class="smcap">"Ignacio Luiz Madeira de Mello</span>.<br />
+"Head-quarters, Bahia, May 28. 1823."</p>
+
+<p>This proclamation increased the general alarm to the highest pitch. The
+editors of even the Portuguese newspapers use the strongest language.
+One of them says, "The few last days, we have witnessed in this city a
+most doleful spectacle, that must touch the heart even of the most
+insensible: a panic terror has seized on all men's minds," &amp;c.<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> And
+then goes on to anticipate the horrors of a city left without
+protectors, and of families, whose fathers being obliged to fly, should
+be left like orphans, with their property, a prey to the invaders. These
+fears abated a little on the 2d of June, when a vessel entered Bahia,
+having on board 3000 alquieres of farinha; and the spirits of the troops
+were raised by a slight advantage obtained on the 3d over the patriots.
+But the relief was of short duration. On a rigorous search there were
+found in the city no more than six weeks' provisions besides those
+necessary for the ships, and the General proceeded in his preparations
+for quitting Brazil. He now allowed the magistrates to resume their
+functions suspended by the declaration of martial-law, and produced a
+letter from the King, naming five persons to form a provisional
+government; and though some of them were unwilling to accept of the
+office, he caused them to take the oaths, and enter directly on their
+functions.</p>
+
+<p>Madeira's preparations for his departure were accelerated by an attack
+made by Lord Cochrane on the night of the 12th of June, with only the
+Pedro Primeiro. The Portuguese Admiral was ashore, dining with General
+Madeira; when, at ten o'clock at night, a shot was heard. "What is it?"
+exclaimed the latter to the messenger, who, in alarm, entered the
+room.&mdash;"'Tis Lord Cochrane's line-of-battle ship, in the very midst of
+our fleet."&mdash;"Impossible!" exclaimed the Admiral; "no large ship can
+have come up with the ebb tide." And there was as much consternation and
+as much bustle of preparation, as if the fleet of England had entered in
+a hostile manner. The Pedro Primeiro was indeed close alongside of the
+Constitui&ccedil;a&#335;; but the Admiral disdained so small a prize, and pushed on
+to the Joam VI.; had he reached her, he might have carried the whole
+squadron out with him; but just as he seemed on the point of doing so,
+the breeze that had brought him in over the tide failed, and it fell a
+dead calm: by this time every ship was in motion, the forts began to
+play, and, reluctantly, the Pedro dropped out of the harbour with the
+tide, untouched by the enemy.</p>
+
+<p>The daring of this attempt has filled the Portuguese with astonishment
+and dismay, and they are now most willing to abandon Bahia. The church
+plate, and all the cash that can be collected, are believed to be on
+board the British ships of war.<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>July 1st</i>.&mdash;A good deal of sensation has been excited to-day of rather
+a painful nature: the Emperor has fallen from his horse, and has broken
+two of his ribs, and is otherwise much bruised; however, his youth and
+strength prevent any serious apprehension from the consequences of his
+accident. There is no public news, and I am much too ill to care for any
+other. A foreigner, and alone, and very sick, I have abundant leisure to
+see the worth to the world of riches, or the appearance of them, and
+show and parade; and to feel that if I had them all, they could neither
+relieve the head nor the heart of the suffering or the sorrowful.</p>
+
+<p>I think I am grown selfish: I cannot interest myself in the little
+things of other people's lives as I used to do; I require the strong
+stimulus of public interest to rouse my attention. It is long since I
+have been able to go out among the beautiful scenery here, to enjoy the
+charms of nature.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th</i>.&mdash;Once more I begin to feel better, and to go out of doors a
+little. All sorts of people crowd daily to visit the Emperor, who is
+recovering, but is still confined to the house. For the first time for
+these many weeks, I took a drive to-day; and went, as far as San
+Cristova&#335;, to enquire after His Imperial Majesty, and leave my name. The
+road, both as I went and returned, was crowded with carriages and
+horsemen, on the same errand. Besides that the people do love him, his
+life is of the utmost importance to the very existence of Brazil as an
+independent nation at present, at any rate in peace.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th</i>.&mdash;I have become acquainted with two or three pleasant Brazilians,
+and one or two of the better kind of Portuguese, who have adopted
+Brazil.<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> There are not above five Fidalgos of the number, and these
+ancient nobles are objects of jealousy to the new, in number about a
+dozen, who infinitely surpass them in riches; so that we have the usual
+gossip and scandal of courts and cities, in which, as the women are
+usually the most active, so they suffer most: nor are our English one
+whit behind them. There is not much formal visiting among the English,
+but a good deal of quiet tea-drinking, and now and then parties formed
+to dine out of doors in the cool weather.</p>
+
+<p>In short, my countrywomen here are a discreet sober set of persons, with
+not more than a reasonable share of good or bad. They go pretty
+regularly to church on Sundays, for we have a very pretty protestant
+chapel in Rio, served by a respectable clergyman; meet after church to
+luncheon and gossip: some go afterwards to the opera, others play cards,
+and some few stay at home, or ride out with their husbands, and instruct
+themselves and families by reading; and all this much as it happens in
+Europe. However, they are all very civil to me; and why should I see
+faults, or be hurt at the absurd stories they tell of me, because they
+don't know me? Besides, 'tis no great affront to be called wiser than
+one is.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th</i>.&mdash;Several prizes have arrived from the Moro of San Paulo. One of
+these vessels has brought news from the Moro that I only half like.
+After Lord Cochrane's visit to Bahia on the night of the 12th of June,
+he had been employed for the eight ensuing days in maturing a plan for a
+farther attack, which seemed sure of success; when, on the 20th<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a>,
+"some careless or malignant person set fire to a cask of spirits, which
+communicated to other casks, and created such terror, that more than a
+hundred persons jumped overboard; some of whom were drowned. It is
+calculated that we should have been blown up if the fire had raged only
+three minutes longer; and its extinction is chiefly to be ascribed to
+the presence of mind and personal exertion of His Lordship himself; who,
+I am grieved to add, was so overheated by the blaze and his own
+exertions, as to be too ill this morning to leave his bed."</p>
+
+<p><i>17th</i>.&mdash;At length Bahia has fallen. Madeira, in pursuance of the plans
+announced in his proclamation of the 28th, had prepared all his ships of
+war, and a great number of merchantmen, with provisions, and ammunition,
+and stores: the plate, money, and jewels, were transhipped from the
+English vessels to his own, and it was believed he was to sail on the 3d
+of July. Lord Cochrane, having intelligence to that effect, had come
+alone in the Pedro Primeiro to look into the harbour, on the morning of
+the 2d, when he saw the Portuguese squadron loose all their topsails and
+prepare to move. This man&oelig;uvre was not considered by the English within
+the bay as decisive, because it had been practised daily for some time.
+His Lordship, however, immediately made signals to the Maria de Gloria
+and Nitherohy to join him with all despatch. The Piranga, useless from
+her bad sailing, owing to the state of her copper, had been ordered to
+Rio; and she and the Liberal, who both arrived to-day, are the bearers
+of the official intelligence. Lord Cochrane, whose kindness is
+never-failing, writes to me as follows. I do not like to quote, even in
+my journal, private letters; but this is short, and tells in few words
+all that can be said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"<span class="smcap">My Dear Madam</span>,</p>
+
+<p>"I have been grieved to learn your indisposition; but you must recover,
+now that I tell you we have starved the enemy out of Bahia. The forts
+were abandoned this morning; and the men of war, 13 in number, with
+about 32 sail of transports and merchant vessels, are under sail. We
+shall follow (i.e. the Maria da Gloria and Pedro Primeiro) to the
+world's end. I say again expect good news. Ever believe me your sincere
+and respectful friend,</p>
+
+<p class="r"><span class="smcap">Cochrane</span>.<br />
+2d July, 1823.<br />
+Eight miles north of Bahia."<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I learn from the officers of the ships arrived, that the guns were all
+spiked, and the magazines blown up in Port Pedro, but otherwise every
+thing was left in good order in the town; and on the marching in of the
+Brazilian troops not the smallest disorder took place, nor was a life
+lost; a circumstance highly honourable to all parties.</p>
+
+<p>Though the Admiral mentions only forty-five vessels, it appears that
+there were many more, amounting to at least eighty, who took the
+opportunity of getting out with the fleet. When the Piranga left the
+Moro, a reinforcement of men had arrived there for the Admiral; and the
+Nitherohy was manning herself, and preparing to follow him in a few
+hours.</p>
+
+<p>This news is highly acceptable here, except among a class either
+secretly attached to, or interested in, Portugal. These are murmuring,
+and saying, "Is it not enough for Lord Cochrane to have driven the poor
+soldiers out of Bahia, without following to persecute them?" &amp;c. And
+others are affecting to despise what they call an easy service. But the
+government knows that it was not an easy service to keep the sea with so
+small a squadron, so recently formed, against a fleet completely armed
+and manned,&mdash;vessels of the best class; far less to cut off the
+provisions of the enemy, so as to reduce him to the necessity of
+abandoning his city.</p>
+
+<p>There are illuminations and a gala opera to-night; but as the Emperor is
+not yet able to go, his picture, and that of the Empress, will appear
+instead. It is an old Portuguese custom, I believe, to display the
+picture of the monarch in his absence on occasions of ceremony.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th</i>.&mdash;The city has been thrown into considerable agitation to-day, by
+the knowledge, that yesterday the ministry of the Andradas ceased. It
+appears that a few days ago, I believe on the 16th, an unknown person
+presented a letter at the palace-door, and told the servant who received
+it, that his life should not be safe if he did not deliver it into the
+Emperor's own hand. The letter was delivered accordingly, and read; upon
+which His Imperial Majesty sent for Jose Bonifacio: they remained
+closeted for a length of time, and the result of the conference was,
+that Jose Bonifacio resigned his employment; and Brazil has lost an able
+minister, and the Emperor a zealous servant. It is rumoured that the
+letter was written from St. Paul's, and contained at least 300
+signatures of persons complaining of the Andradas' tyrannical conduct in
+that province; particularly imprisoning persons who had opposed the
+election of certain members of the assembly, and ordering others, on
+various pretexts, to repair to Rio, where they had been kept away from
+their families.</p>
+
+<p>These things, however, are capable of a favourable interpretation; and,
+in such stormy times, some severity may have been necessary, or, indeed,
+the zeal of the minister may have carried him too far.<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a></p>
+
+<p>However that may be, the resignation of Jose Bonifacio is certain; and
+not less so that of his brother, Martim Francisco, whose unimpeachable
+integrity at the head of the treasury it will not be easy to supply. The
+conjectures, reasonings, and reports, on these subjects, are, of course,
+very various. The most general idea is, that the Andradas are
+overpowered by a republican party in the assembly; which, though small,
+has a decided plan, and works accordingly; and, oddly enough, their fall
+is said to have been brought about by an attempt, on their part, to get
+rid of old monarchy men. Monis Tavares, a clever man, whose name will be
+remembered in the sittings of the Lisbon Cortes as an advocate for
+Brazil, proposed in an early sitting of the assembly, May 22, the
+absolute expulsion from Brazil of all persons born in Portugal. The
+proposal gave rise to a warm discussion, and was negatived. This defeat
+was the signal for all the Portuguese party, and they are not weak, to
+join with the republicans to overthrow the Andradas; and they have
+succeeded. Such is the view taken of this business by many intelligent
+persons. However the fact may be, the Emperor's feeling to disclaim all
+tyranny or connivance at tyranny, is praiseworthy; but a well-wisher to
+Brazil may be permitted to desire that such able men had proved their
+innocence to his satisfaction, and had retained their situations. This
+evening the Emperor has circulated the following address to his
+people:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>"Inhabitants of Brazil,</p>
+
+<p>"The government which does not guide itself by public opinion, or which
+is ignorant of it, must become the scourge of humanity. The monarch who
+knows not this truth will precipitate his empire into a gulf of
+misfortunes, each more terrible than the preceding. Providence has
+granted to me the knowledge of this truth. I have founded my system on
+it, and to that system I will be faithful.</p>
+
+<p>"Despotism and arbitrary acts are detested by me. It is but a short time
+since that I gave you one among many other proofs of this. We may all be
+deceived; but monarchs rarely hear the truth: if they do not seek it, it
+seldom appears to them. When once they know it, they should follow it. I
+have known it, and I do act accordingly. Although we have not yet a
+fixed constitution to govern ourselves by, we have at least those
+foundations for one, built on reason, which ought to be inviolable.
+These are the sacred rights of personal security, property, and the
+inviolability of the home of every citizen. If these have hitherto been
+violated, it was because your Emperor knew not that such despotism and
+acts of arbitrary power, improper at all times, and contrary to the
+system we profess, were exercised. Be assured that henceforth they shall
+be religiously supported: you shall live happy and safe in the bosoms of
+your families, in the arms of your tender wives, and surrounded by your
+beloved children. In vain shall imprudent men try to belie my
+constitutional principles; they will always triumph, as the sun breaks
+through the darkest clouds. Rely upon me, as I on you, and you will see
+democracy and despotism annihilated by rational liberty.</p>
+
+<p class="r"><span class="smcap">The Emperor</span>."</p>
+
+<p>The address has been well received; and perhaps those incidents, which,
+in a time like the present, bring the monarch and people more together,
+are really conducive to the harmony and stability of the whole political
+system. Meantime, Jose Joaquim Carneiro de Campos is prime minister, and
+Manoel Jacintho Noguerra de Gama is at the head of the treasury; a man
+so rich as to be above temptation, and whose character for integrity is
+scarcely lower than that of his predecessor.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 23d</i>.&mdash;I had for some time promised to paint a sketch of San
+Cristava&#335; for the Empress, and to-day I resolved to carry it to her. So
+I went, and on my way breakfasted at my good friend the Visconde&ccedil;a do
+Rio Seco's; I then proceeded to the palace, and went up first to enquire
+after the Emperor's health: while I was writing my name, he, having
+perceived me arrive from the window, politely sent to say he would see
+me, and accordingly I was ushered into the presence-chamber by the
+Viador Don Luiz da Ponte; there I saw ministers and generals all in
+state. The Emperor was in a small inner room, where were his piano, his
+shooting apparatus, &amp;c.; he was in an undressed cotton jacket with his
+arm in a sling, but looking well, although thinner and paler than
+formerly: he sent for the little picture, with which he seemed much
+pleased; and after speaking for some time very politely in French, I
+made my courtesy and retired. I then went to the Empress's apartment:
+she was out, but I was asked to wait for her return from her walk; and
+in the meantime I saw the young Princesses, who are extremely fair, and
+like Her Imperial Majesty, especially the eldest, Dona Maria da Gloria,
+who has one of the most intelligent faces I have seen. The Empress came
+in soon, and talked to me a good while on a variety of subjects, and
+very kindly of my late illness. Setting aside the consideration of her
+high rank, it is not a little pleasing to me to meet so well-educated
+and well-bred a woman; and I felt quite sorry to leave her without
+telling her so: she is in all respects an amiable and respectable woman.
+No distressed person ever applies to her in vain; and her conduct, both
+public and private, justly commands the admiration and love of her
+family and subjects: her personal accomplishments would adorn the
+station of a private gentlewoman; her temper, prudence, and courage, fit
+her for her high situation. On my way back to town I stopped at a
+country-house belonging to M. do Rio Seco: it is called Rio Comprido,
+and is remarkable for its garden; the outer hedge of which is like a
+fairy bower, or rather might adorn the gardens of Armida. A fence,
+breast-high, of myrtle and other evergreens, is surmounted by arcades
+of ever-blowing roses; among which a jessamine, or a scarlet or purple
+creeper, twines itself occasionally, enriching the flowery cornice of
+the pillars between which the paths of entrance lie. The inner part one
+might indeed wish less stiff; but then all is kept in such order, and
+filled with such rich flowers and shrubs, that one knows not how the
+change might be made with advantage. The house is low, and pleasant for
+the climate; the orchard, kitchen garden, and grass fields behind,
+delightful; and the whole is surrounded by beautiful views. The Padre
+Jose, who is the chaplain, is also the overseer of the estate; a
+combination of offices that I find is usual here.</p>
+
+<p>After passing some hours there with my hospitable friends, I returned to
+town, and spent an hour with my friend Dona Carlota de Carvalho e Mello,
+and met a number of the ladies of her family; and among the rest, her
+aunt, the wife of Manoel Jacintho, the new minister of finance, one of
+the most pleasing women I have seen in Brazil. I had the pleasure of
+complimenting Dona Carlota's father, on having just received his
+commission as member of the assembly for Bahia, now it is free: I might,
+with truth, have complimented Bahia on so judicious a choice. I returned
+home early, notwithstanding the entreaties of my young friend that I
+would stay, as she considered the evening scarcely begun: the family is
+so large, that, at the house of one or the other, there is always a
+pleasant evening society. The men converse apart till tea-time, after
+which music or dancing brings at least the younger part to join the
+ladies; and it is seldom that they separate before midnight.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 25th</i>.&mdash;Our society at Botafogo is enlivened by the arrival of
+Commodore Sir T. Hardy, who occupies the house of the disembargador
+Fran&ccedil;a, and who is not only cheerful and sociable himself, but causes
+cheerfulness around him. The officers of his own ship, and those of the
+rest of the squadron, are of course great acquisitions to the parties at
+Rio; but I see little of them: my dull house, and duller self, offering
+nothing inviting except to the midshipmen of my old ship, who visit me
+very constantly. I have bought a small horse<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> for the sake of
+exercise, and sometimes accompany the boys on their evening rides. Last
+night I went with two of them to the Praya Vermelha; and finding the
+officer of the guard at the gate of the fort, we asked leave to go in,
+which being granted, we entered, and walked about admiring the views. It
+was the first time I had seen the little bay Vermelha from the land
+side, the fort being built quite along the isthmus that unites the
+Sugar-loaf with the mainland. We remained without thinking of the time
+till the sun was fairly set; and then, on returning to the gate, we
+found it shut, and that the keys had been carried to the governor. So I
+had to go to the officer of the guard, who understanding what had
+happened, ordered the guard under arms, and went himself for the keys,
+and conducted us out of the fort with great politeness. Wherever I have
+met with Brazilians, from the greatest to the meanest, I must say I have
+always experienced the greatest politeness: from the fidalgo who calls
+on me in full court costume, to the peasant, or the common soldier, I
+have had occasion to admire, and be grateful for, their courtesy.</p>
+
+<p><i>August 1st, 1823</i>.&mdash;The English packet arrived to-day; and brings news
+that the royal party in Lisbon have overpowered that of the Cortes. This
+intelligence is looked on as very important here, because it is hoped
+that the court may be more easily induced to acknowledge the
+independence of Brazil; and it is said that the authorities in Madeira
+have already orders to receive, and treat amicably, ships under the
+Brazilian flag. The general tone of politics here is less pleasing than
+it has been. There have been some disagreeable discussions in the
+assembly: a vote has passed refusing the veto to the Emperor; and it is
+said that the republican party is so elated on the occasion, that they
+think of proposing to refuse him the command of the army. The
+Imperialists are of course indignant at all this. However, we shall see
+what will happen when the deputation of the assembly carries up the
+notice of the vote, as it is said will be done next week, when the
+Emperor will be strong enough to receive it. He is now so well that he
+intends in ten days to return thanks at the church of Santa Maria da
+Gloria, and means on the same day to review the troops at San Cristova&#335;.
+They are collecting there for that purpose; and I saw the artillery
+marching that way to-day while I was in town, whither I went to purchase
+some newspapers, particularly the Diario da Assemblea. I take it very
+ill that ladies may not attend the sittings of the assembly, not that I
+know there is any formal prohibition; but the thing is considered as so
+impossible, that I cannot go. It is provided with a gallery? scarcely
+larger in proportion than that of the English House of Commons, for
+strangers; and the proceedings are published. The members speak standing
+in their places: they are something more dressed than the Commons in
+England; but they have no peculiar costume. The President or Speaker is
+changed monthly.</p>
+
+<p><i>3d</i>.&mdash;I drank tea at the Baronesa de Campos'; and met a large family
+party, which always assembles on Sundays to pay their respects to the
+old lady. The tea was made by one of the young ladies, with the
+assistance of her sister, just as it would be in England. A large silver
+urn, silver tea-pots, milk-jugs, and sugar-dishes, with elegant china,
+were placed on a large table; round which several of the young people
+assembled, and sent round the tea to us, who sat at a distance. All
+sorts of bread, cakes, buttered toast, and rusks were handed with the
+tea; and after it was removed, sweetmeats of every description were
+presented, after which every body took a glass of water.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th</i>.&mdash;Sailed to-day, H.M. ship Beaver, with my friend Mr. Dance as
+acting captain; the world says she takes some very important despatches
+relating to the commerce of England with the independent provinces of La
+Plata; but as the world often tells what is not true, and as what is
+true is never confessed by those who know officially, I never trouble
+myself to ask about these things. I am sorry to see almost my last
+friend leave the station before me: but I am now so used to losing, one
+way or another, all who from any motive have ever acted or felt kindly
+to me, that I hope soon to grow callous to the pain such loss still
+gives. It is in vain that I flatter myself that I have recovered the
+tone of my mind. I am affected even to weakness by every little
+incident, and am obliged to take refuge from my private feelings, in the
+interest that I have lately forced myself to take in the affairs of this
+country; and surely, where the happiness of millions of its
+fellow-creatures is at stake, the human heart may unblamed busy itself.</p>
+
+<p>This morning Sir T. Hardy, who is always anxious to do kind offices,
+carried me to call on Mrs. Chamberlain: I can truly say, if I had known
+her ideas on the subject of etiquette, I should have called on her
+before; and therefore I am glad to do what is expected.<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> She seems
+to be a well-informed woman, with pleasant manners.</p>
+
+<p>After I returned, I joined a party in a pleasant ride to the <i>Copa
+Cabana</i>, a little fort that defends one of the small bays behind that of
+Vermelha, and whence there are to be seen some of the most beautiful
+views here. The woods in the neighbourhood are very fine, and produce a
+great deal of the excellent fruit called the Cambuc&aacute;; and among the
+hills the small oppossum and the armadillo are frequently found.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th</i>.&mdash;The discussions and vote concerning the Emperor's veto have
+excited a great commotion, of words at least; and the English fetchers
+and carriers of news have agreed that there will be some serious
+insurrection on the part of the soldiers, to defend the Emperor from
+some indefinite oppression of the Assembly. I believe it is true that
+the Assembly itself, being convinced that their vote concerning the veto
+is impolitic and unjust, have determined to cancel it; and it is equally
+true, that there have been some military clubs, whose language has been
+rather violent on the subject. But that there are the slightest grounds
+for expecting any serious disturbance, I cannot think. The Emperor
+appears too sincere in his desire to see the greatest possible
+prosperity in Brazil, to encourage any violent proceedings to overawe
+the Constituent Assembly; and at the same time he has too much spirit to
+submit to terms, from any quarter, derogatory to his dignity and rights.
+I have just received his proclamation on the occasion, which I doubt not
+will produce a good effect. These proclamations are agreeable to the
+taste of the people; and in fact are the only channels through which
+they can learn any thing of the disposition of the Emperor in the
+present state of the country. To-day's is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>"Brazilians!</p>
+
+<p>"On not a few occasions have I laid open to you my mind and my heart: on
+the first you will always find engraven constitutional monarchy, on the
+last your happiness. I am now desirous of giving you a fresh assurance
+of my sentiments, and of my detestation of despotism, whether exercised
+by one or by many.</p>
+
+<p>"Some of the municipalities of the northern provinces have given
+instructions to their deputies, in which the spirit of democracy
+predominates. Democracy in Brazil, in this vast empire, is an absurdity;
+and not less absurd is the pretending to give laws to those who are to
+make them, threatening them with the loss or diminution of powers which
+the constituents neither have given nor have power to give.</p>
+
+<p>"In the city of Porto Alegre, the troops and the people, the junta of
+government and the civil and ecclesiastical authorities, have also just
+committed an error, which they have confirmed, or rather aggravated, by
+solemn oath. Troops which ought to obey the monarch holding a council;
+incompetent authorities defining an article of the constitution, which
+is the business of the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly (and
+such is the veto, whether absolute or suspensive);&mdash;are most scandalous
+absurdities, and crimes which would merit the severest punishment, but
+for the consideration that they were suggested by ignorance, or produced
+by base deceptions.</p>
+
+<p>"Listen not therefore to those who flatter the people, or to those who
+flatter the monarch: they are equally base, and moved by personal and
+low interests; and under the mask of liberality or that of servility,
+seek alike, only to rear their proud and precarious fortunes on the
+ruins of their country. The times in which we live are full of
+melancholy warnings. Let us use the catastrophes of foreign nations as
+beacons.</p>
+
+<p>"Brazilians! confide in your Emperor and Perpetual Defender, who seeks
+no legal powers; nor will he ever suffer those to be usurped which
+belong to him of right, and which are indispensable in order that you
+may be happy, and that this empire may fulfil the high destinies suited
+to its boundaries of the wide Atlantic, and the proud floods of the
+Plata and the Amazons. Let us await reverently the constitution of the
+empire, and let us hope that it may be worthy of us.</p>
+
+<p>"May the Supreme Disposer of the Universe grant us union and
+tranquillity, strength and constancy; and the great work of our liberty
+and independence will be accomplished.</p>
+
+<p class="r"><span class="smcap">The Emperor</span>."</p>
+
+<p>9<i>th August</i>.&mdash;The day on which the Pes de Chumbo predicted an
+insurrection has passed in perfect tranquillity, excepting for one
+melancholy accident. Their Imperial Majesties, as had been appointed,
+went to the Gloria church to return thanks for the Emperor's recovery.
+They were attended by the officers of state, and of the household, and
+as many officers of the different regiments as could attend. While the
+company were all on their knees, and just as the sacring-bell announced
+the elevation of the Host, the Chamberlain, Magalhaens, was struck with
+apoplexy, and died.</p>
+
+<p>12<i>th</i>.&mdash;This day, as well as yesterday and the day before, there have
+been illuminations and dressed operas on account of the Emperor's
+recovery; and to-night a vessel, prize to the squadron, arrived,
+bringing news of their wellbeing, and of the arrival of many prizes at
+Bahia and Pernambuco. As officers and men from the Imperial ships cannot
+be spared in sufficient numbers to work the prizes into port, Lord
+Cochrane makes sure of their going thither by starting the water,
+excepting what is sufficient for a certain number of days, and cutting
+away the main and mizen masts, so that they must run for the ports to
+leeward. Seamen will appreciate this.</p>
+
+<p><i>August 14th</i>.&mdash;I went with M. Plasson, a very intelligent Frenchman, to
+whom I am indebted for a good deal of information about this country, to
+the museum, which I had seen in a hurried way, on my first visit to Rio.
+It is greatly improved since I was here, both externally and internally.
+The minerals of the country form the richest part of the collection. The
+diamonds, both colourless and black, surpass any thing I have seen; but
+I believe the crystals of gold to be the most precious articles here:
+there are several pieces of native gold, weighing three or four ounces;
+and some beautiful specimens of silver, as fine and as delicate as a
+lady's aigrette. I confess that the fine coloured copper, and the
+beautiful grained iron, pleased me as well as most things: some of the
+latter specimens yield 99 parts of iron. These are from the mines of St.
+Paul's, and I was shown some specimens of coal, as fine as Scotch coal,
+that has been recently discovered in the immediate neighbourhood of
+those very mines. The amethysts, topazes, quartzes of all colours, are
+innumerable: there are beautiful jaspers with veins of gold, and all
+manner of gorgeous works of nature, fit for Aladdin's cave, and the
+insects, especially the butterflies, fit to flit about in it. But the
+other branches of natural history are not rich here. Of birds there are
+few of note, beyond a splendid set of toucans; and of quadrupeds, a few
+monkies, two fawns like the roe-deer<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a>, and some very curious
+armadillos, are all I remember. The collection of Indian weapons and
+dresses is incomplete, and wants arrangement: this is a pity; for
+by-and-by, as the wild natives adopt civilised habits, these will be
+unattainable. The African curiosities are scarcely better kept, but some
+of them are very curious in their kind. One very remarkable one is a
+king's dress made of ox-gut, not in the state <i>le valliant des cubes</i>,
+but carefully cleaned and dried, as we do bladders. It is then split
+longitudinally, and the pieces sewed together, each seam being set with
+tufts or rather fringes of purple feathers; so that the vest is light,
+impervious to rain, and highly ornamental from its rich purple stripes.
+There is another entirely of rich Mazarine blue feathers; a sceptre most
+ingeniously wrought of scarlet feathers; and a cap of bark, with a long
+projecting beak in front, and a quantity of coloured feathers and hair
+behind, ornamented with beads. Besides all these things, there is the
+throne of an African prince of wood, beautifully carved. I could wish,
+since the situation of Brazil is so favourable for collecting African
+costume, that there were a room appropriated to these things, as they
+are curious in the history of man.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th</i>.&mdash;The feast of Our Lady of the Assumption, called here Nossa
+Senhora da Gloria, the patroness of the Emperor's eldest child, is
+celebrated to-day, and of course the whole of the royal family attended
+Mass in the morning and evening. I was spending the day with Mrs. May,
+at her pleasant house on the Gloria hill, and we agreed to go in the
+afternoon to see the ceremony. The church is situated on a platform,
+rather more than half way up a steep eminence overlooking the bay. The
+body is an octagon of thirty-two feet diameter; and the choir, of the
+same shape, is twenty-one feet in diameter. We entered among a great
+crowd of persons, and placed ourselves within the choir; and shortly
+afterwards the Imperial party entered, and I was not disagreeably
+surprised at being most pleasantly recognised. The salutation, as this
+evening's service is called, was well performed as to music, and very
+short: after it, for the first time, I heard a Portuguese sermon. It was
+of course occasional. The text, 1 Kings, chap. ii. ver. 19.&mdash;"And the
+king rose up to meet his mother, and bowed himself unto her, and sat
+down on his throne, and caused a seat to be set for the "king's mother,
+and she sat on his right hand." The application of this text to the
+legend of the Assumption is obvious, and occupied the first division of
+the discourse. The second part consisted in an application of the
+history of the early part of Solomon's reign to the present
+circumstances of Brazil; the restoration of the kingdom, the triumph
+over faction, and the institution of laws, forming the grounds of
+comparison. The whole people of Brazil were called upon to join in
+thanksgiving and prayers to the Virgin of Glory: thanksgiving that she
+had given to her people, as rulers, the descendants of the Emanuels, the
+Johns, and the Henrys of Portugal, and of the Maria Theresas of Austria;
+and prayers that she would continue her gracious protection, and that
+most especially to the eldest hope of Brazil, named after her and
+dedicated to her. The whole was gravely and properly done, with as
+little of the appearance of flattery to the illustrious persons present
+as possible, and did not last above fifteen minutes. On this occasion,
+the veadors, and other persons attendant on the Imperial family, wore
+white silk surplices, and bore torches in their hands.</p>
+
+<p>I went in the evening to a ball and concert at the Baronesa de Campos:
+on entering, I was met by the young ladies of the family, and led up to
+their grandmother; and after paying my compliments to her, I was placed
+among the division of the family where I had most acquaintance. There
+were only two Englishwomen besides Lady Cochrane and myself, and these
+were the wives of the consul and the commissioner for the slave
+business. A foreign gentleman present remarked, that though we were but
+four, we hardly conversed together. This was perfectly true: I like,
+when I am in foreign society, to talk to foreigners; and think it
+neither wise nor civil to form coteries with those of one's own nation
+in such cases. Several rooms were open, for cards; the stakes, I fancy,
+were high. The tea-room was no sooner full, than tea was handed round;
+and I perceived that some of the older servants, with great respect
+indeed, spoke to such of the guests as they were acquainted with. After
+tea, I had the pleasure of again hearing Dona Rosa sing, and almost
+grudged my gayer companions their ball, which broke in upon that "sober
+certainty of waking bliss," which music inspires into all, and
+especially to those who have known sorrow. I am no musician; but sweet
+sounds, especially those of the human voice, whether in speaking or
+singing, have a singular power over me.</p>
+
+<p>After the first dance was over, we walked all about the house, and found
+a magnificent dining-room as to size, but scarcely furnished to
+correspond with the rest of the house; the bed-rooms and dressing-rooms
+of the ladies are neat and elegantly fitted up with English and French
+furniture; and all as different as possible from the houses I saw in
+Bahia. I am told that they are likewise as different from what they were
+here twenty years since, and can well believe it; even during the twelve
+months of my absence from Rio, I see a wonderful polishing has taken
+place, and every thing is gaining an European air.</p>
+
+<p>I took the liberty of remarking to one of the ladies, the extreme youth
+of some of the children who accompanied their mothers this evening; and
+saying, that in England we should consider it injurious to them in all
+respects. She asked me what we did with them. I told her that some of
+them would be in bed, and others with their nurses and governesses. She
+said we were happy in that: but that here, there were no such persons,
+and that the children would be left to the care and example of the
+slaves, whose manners were so depraved, and practices so immoral, that
+it must be the destruction of the children; and that those who loved
+their children must keep them under their own eyes, where, if they were
+brought too forward in company, they at least could learn no ill. I love
+to collect these proofs of the evils of slavery&mdash;even here where it
+exists in a milder form than in most countries.&mdash;I left the dancers
+busily engaged at twelve o'clock, and I heard that they continued the
+ball until three. There is no peculiarity in the dancing here; the
+ladies of Rio being like ourselves, the pupils of the French, in that
+branch of the fine arts.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th</i>.&mdash;Sir T. Hardy gave a ball and supper to English, French, and
+Brazilians: where every thing was handsome, and well-ordered; and every
+body pleased.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th</i>.&mdash;I had long wished to see a little more of the neighbourhood of
+Rio than I have hitherto done; and had resolved on riding at least to
+Santa Cruz, about fourteen leagues from hence, and as the road is too
+well travelled to fear extraordinary accidents, and I am not timid as to
+common inconveniences, I had determined to hire a black attendant and go
+alone. This determination, however, was over-ruled by Mr. and Mrs. May,
+whose brother, Mr. Dampier, kindly offered to escort me. I confess I was
+very glad to be relieved of the absolute charge of myself, and not a
+little pleased to have the society of a well-bred, intelligent young
+man, whose taste for the picturesque beauties of nature agrees with my
+own.&mdash;I think that if there is one decided point in which
+fellow-travellers agree, however different in age, temper, or
+disposition, there may always be peace and pleasant conversation, more
+especially, if, as is our case, they travel on horseback. A difference
+of opinion is so easily evaded by a reference to one's horse, which may
+always go too fast or too slow, or exercise one's tongue or one's whip
+without any offence to one's two-legged companion.&mdash;We were well tried
+to-day. I had taken it into my head, that after having postponed our
+journey from week to week on one account or an other, if we did not
+begin it this day we never should go at all: and, therefore, though the
+afternoon was most unpromising, we left Mr. May's at half-past four
+o'clock, that we might reach Campinha, the first stage, to sleep; for,
+alas! these horses are not like my Chilian steeds, that would carry me
+twenty leagues a day without complaining. We mounted then, Mr. Dampier
+on a tall bay horse high in bone, with a brace of pistols buckled round
+him, in a huge straw hat, and a short jacket; I on a little grey horse,
+my boat-cloak over my saddle; otherwise dressed as usual, with a straw
+riding hat, and dark grey habit; and our attendant Antonio, the merriest
+of negroes, on a mule, with Mr. Dampier's portmanteau behind, and my bag
+before him.&mdash;We proceeded by the upper part of the town, and along the
+well-trodden road to San Cristova&#335;, and after crossing the little hill
+to the left of the palace, entered on a country quite new to me. From
+the western side of the entrance to Rio Janeiro, a high mountainous
+ridge extends close to the sea, as far as the Bay of Angra dos Reyes,
+formed by Ilha Grande and Marambaya. On the northern side of this ridge
+there is a plain, here and there varied by low hills, extending quite to
+the most inland part of Rio de Janeiro, and reaching in a winding
+direction to the bay of Angra dos Reyes: itself having probably at no
+very remote period been covered with water, connecting these two bays,
+and insulating the mountains above mentioned. Along this plain our road
+lay between grand scenery on the one hand, and soft and beautiful
+landscape on the other; but to-night all was dark and louring; the tops
+of the mountains were wrapped in mists, that rushed impetuously down
+their sides, or through their clefts, and every now and then a hollow
+sound of wind came from out of them, though the blast did not quite
+reach us. Under this sort of cloud we passed the picturesque Pedragulha,
+and the little port of Benefica, formed by a creek of the Rio. By the
+time we reached Praya Pequena, where a good deal of produce is embarked
+for the city, the clouds had closed dully in, and the grand mountain
+mists had lost their character. Still we went on, leaving the bay
+entirely: and first we passed the Venda Grande, where every necessary
+for horse or man travelling, is to be sold; then the Capon do Bispo, a
+pretty village, which the rain clouds made me long to stop at; and then
+the stone bridge of Rio de Ferreira, where the rain at length began to
+fall in large cold drops; then tremendous gusts of wind came out of the
+mountain gaps, and long before we reached the Casca d'ouro, the
+protection of cloaks and umbrellas had ceased to avail. There we might
+have stopped; but having been told that the Venda of Campinha was the
+best resting-place, we resolved to proceed, and with some pains
+prevailed on my horse to go on: we reached the venda. But if it be
+delightful, after a long wet ride in a dark and boisterous night, to
+arrive at a place of rest, it is at least as wretched to be turned from
+the door where you hope to find shelter, with dripping clothes and
+shivering limbs; yet such was our fate. There was nothing at the venda
+to eat, no place for us, none for our horses, and so we set out again to
+brave the pitiless storm; a few yards, however, brought us to a low
+cottage on the road side, and there we knocked. A mulatto serving-man
+came round cautiously to reconnoitre from the back of the house, when
+having ascertained that we really were English travellers benighted and
+wet, the front door was opened, and we found within a middle-aged very
+kind-looking woman, and her little daughter; her name is Maria Rosa
+d'Acunha. Her husband and son were absent on business, and she and the
+little girl were alone. As soon as we had changed our wet clothes, and
+had provided for the horses, which our hostess put into an empty
+building, she gave us warm coffee, bread and cheese, and extended her
+hospitable care to the negro. She gave Mr. Dampier her son's bed, and
+made up a couch for me in the room where she and the child slept. These
+people are of the poorest class of farmers, not possessing above four or
+five slaves, and working hard themselves. They appear happy however, and
+I am sure are very hospitable.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st</i>.&mdash;This morning looked at least as threatening as yesterday, but
+we determined to go as far as the Engenho dos Affonsos, for whose owner,
+Senhor Joam Marcus Vieira, we had letters from a friend in town.
+Accordingly we took leave of our kind hostess, who had made coffee early
+for us, and proceeded along a league of very pretty road to the
+Affonsos. Where that estate joins Campinha there is a large tiled shed
+where we found a party of travellers, apparently from the mines, drying
+their clothes and baggage after the last night's storm. A priest, and
+two or three men apparently above the common, appeared to be the masters
+of the party; the baggage was piled up on one side of the shed, and the
+arms were stuck into the cordage which bound it. There was a great fire
+in the middle, where a negro was boiling coffee, and several persons
+round drying clothes. Generally speaking, the men we met on their way
+from the mines are a fine, handsome race, lightly and actively made.
+Their dress is very picturesque. It consists of an oval cloak, lined and
+bordered with some bright colour such as rose or apple green, worn as
+the Spanish Americans wear the poncho. The sides are often turned up
+over the shoulders, and display a bright coloured jacket below. The
+breeches are loose, and reach to the knee, and loose boots of brown
+leather are frequently seen on the better sort, though it is very common
+to see the spurs upon the naked heel, and no boot or shoe of any kind.
+The higher classes have generally handsome pistols or great knives, the
+others content themselves with a good cudgel. A short league from the
+last house of Campinha, brought us to Affonsos, where we presented our
+letter, and were most kindly welcomed.&mdash;The estate belongs in fact to
+the grandmother of Senhor Joa&#335; Marcus, who is a native of St.
+Catherine's, and a widow. His mother, and sister, and brother, and two
+dumb cousins also reside here, but he is only an occasional visitor,
+being married, and living near his wife's family. The dumb ladies, no
+longer young, are very interesting; they are extremely intelligent,
+understanding most things said in Portuguese by the motion of the lips,
+so that their cousin spoke in French, when he wished to say any thing of
+them; they make themselves understood by signs, many of which, I may say
+most, would be perfectly intelligible to the pupils of Sicard or
+Braidwood. They are part of a family of eight children, four of whom are
+dumb, the dumb and the speakers being born alternately. One of them made
+breakfast for us, which consisted of coffee, and various kinds of bread
+and butter.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast, as the day continued cold and showery, we were easily
+prevailed on by our host to remain all day at Affonsos. I was indeed
+glad of the opportunity of spending a whole day with a country family.
+The first place we visited after breakfast was the sugar-mill, which is
+worked by mules. The machinery is rather coarse, but seems to answer its
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The estate employs 200 oxen and 180 slaves as labourers, besides those
+for the service of the family. The produce is somewhere about 3000
+arobas of sugar, and 70 pipes of spirits. The lands extend from Tapera,
+the place where we met the travellers, and where 200 years ago there was
+an aldea of reclaimed Indians, about a league to Piraquara. There are
+about forty white tenants who keep vendas, and other useful shops on the
+borders of the estate near the roads, and exercise the more necessary
+handicrafts. But a small portion of the estate is in actual cultivation,
+the rest being covered with its native woods; but these are valuable as
+fuel for the sugar-furnaces, and timber for machinery, and occasionally
+for sale. The owners of estates prefer hiring either free blacks, or
+negroes let out by their masters<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a>, to send into the woods, on
+account of the numerous accidents that happen in felling the trees,
+particularly in steep situations. The death of an estate negro is the
+loss of his value, of a hired negro, only that of a small fine; and of a
+free black, it is often the saving even of his wages, if he has no son
+to claim them.</p>
+
+<p>Wheat does not grow in this part of Brazil, though in the southern and
+inland mountainous districts it thrives admirably. The luxury of wheaten
+bread is introduced everywhere, North America furnishing the flour.
+Wherever one travels in this neighbourhood, one is sure of excellent
+rusk at every venda, though soft bread is rare.</p>
+
+<p>The sugar-canes are planted here during the months of March, April, May,
+and even June and July. In the ridges between them maize and
+kidney-beans are planted, the cultivation of which is favourable to the
+sugar-cane: first the beans are gathered in, when the ground is weeded,
+and cleared, and loosened around the roots of the canes; then the maize
+is pulled, when a second weeding and clearing takes place; after which
+the sugar is tall enough to shade the ground, and prevent the growth of
+weeds. The first canes are ripe about May. The Cayenne cane yields best,
+and thrives in low grounds, the soil a mixture of sand and loam. The
+Creole cane takes the hill, and, though less productive, is supposed to
+yield sugar of a better quality. The cool months from May to September
+are the properest for boiling sugar. After October, the canes yield less
+juice by one-eighth, sometimes by one-fourth, and nearly as much more
+is lost in claying by the lightness of the sugar, the pots of three
+arobas not returning after the operation more than two and a half at
+most. The clay used in refining the sugar is dug close to the mill; it
+feels soft and fat in the fingers. It is placed in a wooden trough, with
+a quantity of lie made by steeping the twigs of a small shrub, which has
+a taste of soda<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a>, and worked up and down with a machine, something
+like a churn-staff, until it is of the consistence of thick cream, when
+it is ready for use. I suppose that the main business of expressing the
+juice, boiling it, and drying the sugars, as well as cleansing them, are
+carried on here as in every part of the world, though probably there may
+be some difference in every country, or even in every sugar-work; nor
+can the distilling the spirits be very different. Nothing is wasted in a
+sugar-house; the trash that remains after the canes are pressed, when
+dried, assists as fuel in heating the furnaces; the sweet refuse water
+that runs off from the still is eagerly drank by the oxen, who always
+seem to fatten on it.</p>
+
+<p>By the time we had examined the sugar-work, and seen the garden, it was
+two o'clock, and we were summoned to dinner. Every thing was excellent
+in its kind, with only a little more garlic than is used in English
+cookery. On the side-table there was a large dish of dry farinha, which
+the elder part of the family called for and used instead of bread. I
+preferred the dish of farinha moistened with broth, not unlike brose,
+which was presented along with the bouillie and sliced saussage after
+the soup. The mutton was from the estate, small and very sweet. Every
+thing was served up on English blue and white ware. The table-cloths and
+napkins were of cotton diaper, and there was a good deal of plate used,
+but not displayed. After dinner some of the family retired to the
+siesta; others occupied themselves in embroidery, which is very
+beautiful, and the rest in the business of the house, and governing the
+female in-door slaves, who have been mostly born on the estate, and
+brought up in their mistress's house. I saw children of all ages and
+colours running about, who seemed to be as tenderly treated as if they
+had been of the family. Slavery under these circumstances is much
+alleviated, and more like that of the patriarchal times, where the
+purchased servant became to all intents one of the family. The great
+evil is, that though perhaps masters may not treat their slaves ill,
+they have the power of doing so; and the slave is subject to the worst
+of contingent evils, namely, the caprice of a half-educated, or it may
+be an ill-educated master. Were all slaves as well off as the house
+slaves of Affonsos, where the family is constantly resident, and nothing
+trusted to others, the state of the individuals might be compared with
+advantage to that of free servants. But the best is impossible, and the
+worst but too probable; since the unchecked power of a fallible being
+may exercise itself without censure on its slaves.</p>
+
+<p>One of the dumb ladies made tea, and afterwards we passed a couple of
+hours at a round game of cards, where the sisters felt themselves quite
+on an equality with the speakers, and enjoyed themselves accordingly. I
+remember an account given by Bishop Burnet in his Travels, of a dumb
+lady who had invented a way of communicating with her sister, even in
+the dark, before the instruction of such unfortunate persons had become
+an object of public attention. Some such method these ladies possess of
+discoursing together, and of making themselves understood by their young
+cousin, an intelligent girl, who is always at hand to interpret for
+them. They have also invented arbitrary signs for the names of the
+flowers and plants in their garden, which signs all the family know; and
+I was delighted with the quickness and precision with which they
+conversed on every subject within their knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>The cards made way for the supper, a meal almost as ceremonious, and
+quite as constant, as the dinner. After it, toasted cheese was
+introduced, with girdle cakes of farinha freshly toasted, and spread
+with a very little Irish butter; they are the same as the Casava bread
+of the West Indies, but prepared here are more like Scotch oat-cakes.
+On retiring to my room at night, a handsome young slave entered, with a
+large brass pan of tepid water, and a fringed towel over her arm, and
+offered to wash my feet. She seemed disappointed when I told her I never
+suffered any body to do that for me, or to assist me in undressing at
+any time. In the morning she returned, and removing the foot bath,
+brought fresh towels, and a large embossed silver basin and ewer, with
+plenty of tepid water; which she left without saying a word, and told
+her mistress I was a very quiet person, and, she supposed, liked nobody
+but my own people, so she would not disturb me.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, August 22d</i>.&mdash;The day as fine as possible; and after breakfast
+we pursued our journey to Santa Cruz, the road improving in beauty as we
+proceeded.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Here lofty trees to ancient song unknown,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The noble sons of potent heat, and floods<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Prone rushing from the clouds, rear'd high to heav'n<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Their thorny stems, and broad around them threw<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Meridian gloom."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And above all these the mountains rose in the distance, and lower hills
+more near, between which, long valleys stretched themselves till the eye
+could follow them no farther; and the foregrounds were filled up with
+gigantic aloes, streams, and pools, and groups of passing cattle and
+their picturesquely clad conductors. Near Campo Grande, the scenery is
+diversified by several little green plains, with only an insulated tree
+here and there, decorated with air plants in bloom, and scarlet
+creepers. Beyond this lies one of the most beautiful spots I ever saw,
+namely, Viaga; where the rocks, trees, plains, and buildings, seem all
+placed on purpose to be admired. Having loitered a little to admire it,
+we rode on to the New Freguezia of Sant Antonio, where we stopped at a
+very neat venda to rest and feed our horses. The church is on a little
+hill, overlooking a very pretty country and a neat village, but the
+greater part of the parish is very distant. While the horses were eating
+their maize, we procured for ourselves some rusk, cheese from the
+province of Minas exactly like Scotch kebbuck, and port wine from the
+cask of excellent quality. These provisions are always to be had, with
+beans, bacon, and dried beef. But the hospitality of a Brazilian inn
+does not extend to cooking food for travellers, who generally carry the
+utensils for that purpose with them, and who in some shed attached to
+the inn cook for themselves, and generally sleep in the same shed. At
+Sant Antonio there are decent sleeping-rooms provided with benches and
+mats, to which the guests add what bedding they please; but travellers
+commonly wrap themselves in their cloaks, and so rest. As soon as our
+horses were ready, we rode on to Mata Paciencia, the engenho of Dona
+Mariana, the eldest daughter of the Baroness de Campos, and to whom we
+had a letter of introduction. Here we met with a most polite reception
+from a handsome ladylike woman, whom we found attending to her engenho,
+which is indeed an interesting one. We were received at first by the
+chaplain, a polite and well-informed person; and with him was the
+chaplain of Santa Cruz, who having been formerly a professor in the
+college at Rio, is commonly known by the name of the Padre Mestre.</p>
+
+<p>Dona Mariana led us into the engenho, where we had seats placed near the
+rollers, which are worked by an eight-horse power steam-engine, one of
+the first, if not the very first, erected in Brazil. There are here 200
+slaves, and as many oxen, in constant employ. The steam-engine, besides
+the rollers in the sugar-house, moves several saws; so that she has the
+advantage of having her timber prepared almost without expense. While we
+were sitting by the machine, Dona Mariana desired the women, who were
+supplying the canes, to sing, and they began at first with some of their
+own wild African airs, with words adopted at the moment to suit the
+occasion. She then told them to sing their hymns to the Virgin; when,
+regularly in tune and time, and with some sweet voices, the evening and
+other hymns were sung; and we accompanied Dona Mariana into the house,
+where we found that while we had been occupied in looking at the
+machinery, the boilers, and the distillery, dinner had been prepared for
+us, though it was long after the family hour. On our departure, we were
+hospitably pressed to return on our way back to Rio, which we, "nothing
+loath," promised to do.</p>
+
+<p>It was quite dark long before we reached Santa Cruz, and exceedingly
+cold: when there, we easily found the house of the gentleman to whom we
+had a letter of introduction, the Capita&#335; de Fragata Joam da Cruz de
+Reis, who is the superintendant of the palace and estate. The Visconde
+do Rio Seco had kindly furnished us with this letter, and mentioned that
+the object of the journey was mere curiosity, so that the Capita&#335; told
+us that he would next day do all he could to satisfy us. Soon after our
+arrival, several persons dropped in to converse half an hour; among the
+rest, a surgeon, who comes from Rio once a year to vaccinate the
+children born in the twelve-months on the estate. The Padre Mestre and
+another friar also came in; and I soon found that Santa Cruz has its
+politics and gossip as well as the city, all the difference being in a
+little more or less refinement. Nothing can exceed the good-humoured
+hospitality of our host and hostess, who soon made us feel quite at
+home; and by the time tea was over, we were quite initiated into all the
+ways of the house and the village.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 23d</i>.&mdash;The morning was excessively cold but clear, and the
+view of the extensive plains of Santa Cruz, with the herds of cattle
+upon it, most magnificent. The pasture, which extends many leagues on
+each side of the little hill on which the palace and village are
+situated, is here and there varied by clumps of natural wood; the
+horizon extends to the sea in one direction, and every where else the
+view is bounded by mountains or woody hills. The palace itself occupies
+the site of the old Jesuits' college. Three sides are modern: the fourth
+contains the handsome chapel of the very reverend fathers, and a few
+tolerable apartments. The new part was built for King John VI., but the
+works were stopped on his departure. The apartments are handsome, and
+comfortably furnished. In this climate hangings, whether of paper or
+silk, are liable to speedy decay from damp and insects. The walls are
+therefore washed with a rich creamy white clay, called Taboa
+Tinga<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a>, and cornices and borders painted on them in distemper. Some
+of these are exceedingly beautiful in design, and generally very well
+executed, the arabesques of the friezes being composed of the fruits,
+flowers, birds, and insects of the country. One of the rooms represents
+a pavilion; and between the open pilasters, the scenery round Santa Cruz
+is painted, not well indeed, but the room is pleasant and cheerful. The
+artists employed were chiefly mulattoes and creole negroes.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast, we rode along the causeway that crosses the plain of
+Santa Cruz, to the Indian aldea of San Francisco Xavier de Itaguahy,
+commonly called Taguahy, formed by the Jesuits not very long before
+their expulsion. The situation of the aldea and church is extremely
+fine; on the summit of a hill overlooking a rich plain, watered by a
+navigable river, and surrounded by mountains. We entered several of the
+huts of the Indians, whom I had understood to be of the Guaranee nation.
+I enquired of one of the women, in whose hut I sat down, if she knew
+whence her tribe came: she said no; she had been brought, when a mere
+child, from a great distance to Taguahy, by the fathers of the company;
+that her husband had died when she was young; that she and her daughters
+had always lived there; but her sons and grandsons, after the fathers of
+the company went, had returned to their fathers, by which she meant that
+they had resumed their savage life. This is not surprising. The Indians
+here must work for others, and become servants; a state they hardly
+distinguish from slavery. Besides, slaves are plentiful; and as the
+negro is hardier than the Indian, his labour is more profitable;
+therefore, a willing Indian does not always find a master. The produce
+of his little garden, or his fishing, is rarely sufficient for his
+family; and without the protection of the priest, whose chief favour was
+procuring constant occupation, the half-reclaimed savage droops, and
+flies again to the liberty of his forest, to his unrestrained hunting
+and fishing. The Chilian Indians rarely or never return to their forests
+when their villages are once formed; but that depends on circumstances,
+which have nothing in common with the state of Brazil. Many of the
+Indian women have married the creole Portuguese; intermarriages between
+creole women and Indian men are more rare. The children of such couples
+are prettier, and appear to me to be more intelligent, than the pure
+race of either. The Indian huts at Taguahy are very poor; barely
+sufficient in walls and roof to keep out the weather, and furnished with
+little besides hammocks and cooking utensils; yet we were every where
+asked to go in and sit down: all the floors were cleanly swept, and a
+log of wood or a rude stool was generally to be found for a seat for the
+stranger, the people themselves squatting on the ground.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the hill of Taguahy there is a very fine ingenho, sold by
+King Joam VI. to one de Barros; the rollers are worked by a horizontal
+water-wheel about twenty-two feet in diameter, turned by the little
+stream Taguahy. The quantity of sugar made in a given time is something
+more than that produced by the steam-engine at Mata Paciencia, the
+number of slaves employed being the same.</p>
+
+<p>After we had admired the neatness of the engenho and the beauty of the
+situation sufficiently, we left Taguahy to return to Santa Cruz, and
+re-crossed the river Guandu, where there is a guard-house by the bridge,
+where passes from the police are required from ordinary travellers; but
+as we had a servant from Santa Cruz with us, we were not questioned. The
+Guandu rises in the mountain of Marapicu, in the barony of Itanhae; and
+having received the Tingui, it passes to the engenho of Palmares,
+occupied by the Visconde de Merendal; where there is a wharf where the
+produce of the neighbouring estates is embarked, and conveyed to
+Sepetiva, a little port in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, where it is
+shipped for Rio, the passage thither being generally of twenty-four
+hours.</p>
+
+<p>In 1810 there was an intention of uniting the Guandu with the Itaipu by
+a short canal; by which means the produce, not only of this district,
+but of the Ilha Grande, would have been conveyed directly to Rio,
+without the risk of the navigation outside of the harbour: I know not
+why the project was abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>Every time I pass through a grove in Brazil, I see new flowers and
+plants, and a richness of vegetation that seems inexhaustible. To-day I
+saw passion-flowers of colours I never observed before; green, pink,
+scarlet, and blue: wild pine apples, of beautiful crimson and purple:
+wild tea, even more beautiful than the elegant Chinese shrub:
+marsh-palms, and innumerable aquatic plants, new to me: and in every
+little pool, wild-ducks, water-hens, and varieties of storks, were
+wading about in graceful pride. At every step I am inclined to exclaim
+with the minstrel&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Oh nature, how in every charm supreme!<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oh, for the voice and fire of seraphim<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">To paint thy glories with devotion due!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>After dinner I walked about a little in the village of the negroes.
+There are, I believe, about fifteen hundred on the estate, the greater
+part of whom belong to the outlying farms or feitorias, of which there
+are, I believe, three; Bom Jardin, Piperi, and Serra: these yield
+coffee, feijo&#259;, and maize. The immediate neighbourhood of Santa Cruz is
+appropriated to the rearing of cattle, of which there are this year
+about four thousand head; and a good deal of pasture land is annually
+let. The negroes of Santa Cruz are not fed and clothed by the Emperor,
+but they have their little portions of land; and they have half of
+Friday, all Saturday and Sunday, and every holiday, to labour for
+themselves; so that they at most work for their master four days, in
+return for their house and land; and some even of the external marks of
+slavery are removed, as the families feed and clothe themselves without
+the master's interference. The Emperor has appropriated great part of a
+very commodious building, erected by his father for the royal stud, to
+the purpose of an hospital. I visited it, and found a white surgeon and
+black assistant; decent beds, and well-ventilated apartments: the
+kitchen was clean, and the broth, which was all I found cooked at the
+time of night when I was there, good: there were about sixty patients,
+most of them merely for sores in their feet, some from giggers, others a
+sort of leprosy from working in damp grounds, and a few with
+elephantiases; fevers are very rare; pulmonary complaints not uncommon.
+Several of the inmates of the hospital were there merely from old age;
+one was insane; and there was a large ward of women, with young
+children: so that, on the whole, I consider the hospital as affording a
+proof of the healthiness of the negroes of Santa Cruz.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, 24th</i>, presented a very respectable congregation on its way to
+the chapel of Santa Cruz. There were all the officers belonging to the
+palace, with their wives and families; also the shopkeepers of the
+village and neighbourhood, besides a good many of the negro people; all
+of them, I think, better dressed than persons of the same class
+elsewhere in this part of Brazil.</p>
+
+<p>I walked up to the tea-gardens, which occupy many acres of a rocky hill,
+such as I suppose may be the favourite <i>habitat</i> of the plant in China.
+The introduction of the culture of tea into Brazil was a favourite
+project of the King Joam VI., who brought the plants and cultivators at
+great expense from China. The tea produced both here and at the botanic
+gardens is said to be of superior quality; but the quantity is so small,
+as never yet to have afforded the slightest promise of paying the
+expense of culture. Yet the plants are so thriving, that I have no doubt
+they will soon spread of themselves, and probably become as natives. His
+Majesty built Chinese gates and summer-houses to correspond with the
+destination of these gardens; and, placed where they are, among the
+beautiful tea-shrubs, whose dark shining leaves and myrtle-like flowers
+fit them for a parterre, they have no unpleasing effect. The walks are
+bordered on either hand with orange trees and roses, and the garden
+hedge is of a beautiful kind of mimosa; so that the China of Santa Cruz
+forms really a delightful walk. The Emperor, however, who perceives that
+it is more advantageous to sell coffee and buy tea, than to grow it at
+such expense, has discontinued the cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>Our hospitable friends the Capita&#335; and his lady would not allow us to
+leave them till after dinner, having invited several persons to do
+honour to us, and to a sumptuous feast they had prepared, where every
+good thing that can be named was present. However, due honour having
+been done to the table, we took our leave; and at about four o'clock or
+a little earlier set off for Mata Paciencia, where we arrived a little
+before sunset.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival we went with Dona Mariana and the chaplain into the
+garden, which unites the flower, kitchen-garden, and orchard in one.
+Oranges and roses, cabbage and tobacco, melons and leeks, neighboured
+each other, as if they belonged to the same climate; and all were
+thriving among numbers of weeds, of which the wholesome calliloo and the
+splendid balsam attracted my eye most. A side-door in the garden let us
+into a beautiful field, whither chairs were brought, that we might sit
+and enjoy the freshness of the evening. Overhanging that field there is
+a steep hill, on whose side a great deal of wood has been cleared away,
+and the gardens and coffee plots of the negroes occupy the ground. This
+day&mdash;and blessed be the Sabbath!&mdash;is the negroes' own: after morning
+Mass they are free to do their own will; and then most of them run to
+the hill to gather their coffee or maize, or prepare the ground for
+these or other vegetables. They were just beginning to return from the
+wood, each with his little basket laden with something of his own,
+something in which the master had no share; and again and again as they
+passed me, and displayed with glistening eye the little treasure, I
+blessed the Sabbath, the day of freedom to the slave. Presently the last
+few stragglers dropped in. The sun by this time was only the tops of the
+hills. The cattle flocked in from the pasture, and lowed impatiently at
+the gate of the corral: we opened it, and passed in with them, and
+crossed the court where the negroes live. All was bustle there: they
+were bargaining with a huckster, who, knowing the proper hour, had
+arrived to buy the fresh-picked coffee. Some sold it thus; others chose
+to keep it and dry it, and then to take the opportunity of one of the
+lady's messengers to town and send it thither, where it sells at a
+higher price. I do not know when I have passed so pleasant an evening.</p>
+
+<p>After supper I had a great deal of conversation with Dona Mariana
+concerning the sugar-work, the cultivation of the cane, and the slaves,
+confirming what I had learnt at Affonsos. She also tells me, as I had
+heard before, that the Creole negroes are less docile and less active
+than the new negroes. I think both facts may be accounted for without
+having recourse to the influence of climate. The new negro has the
+education of the slave-ship and the market, the lash being administered
+to drill him; so that when bought he is docile from fear, active from
+habit. The creole negro is a spoiled child, till he is strong enough to
+work; then, without previous habits of industry, he is expected to be
+industrious, and having eaten, drunk, and run about on terms of familiar
+equality, he is expected to be obedient; and where no moral feelings
+have been cultivated, he is expected to show his gratitude for early
+indulgence by future fidelity. Dona Mariana tells me, that not half the
+negroes born on her estate live to be ten years old. It would be worth
+while to enquire into the cause of this evil, and whether it is general.</p>
+
+<p>I conversed also a good while with the chaplain on the general state of
+the country. He is a native of Pernambuco; of course a staunch
+independent. * * * It is needless to say that every thing in the manner
+of living at Mata Paciencia is not only agreeable but elegant. And if
+the stories of older travellers concerning the country life of the
+Brazilians be true, the change has been most rapid and complete.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th August</i>.&mdash;- I was very sorry to leave Mata Paciencia this morning
+when it was time to return; however, the hour came, and we departed for
+Affonsos.</p>
+
+<p>On the road we stopped to make some sketches, and at Campo Grande to
+refresh our horses; and were glad ourselves, as the day was pretty cool,
+to partake of a beef-steak which the good woman of the house cooked
+according to our directions, the first she had ever seen, regretting all
+the time that their own dinner was over, and that there was not time to
+boil or roast for us. But hospitality seems the temper of the country.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Affonsos we were received as old friends, and much
+pressed to stay a couple of days, in order to make excursions to some
+picturesque spots in the neighbourhood, which I would fain have done,
+but my young friend, Mr. Dampier, could not spare the time; so I was
+obliged to content myself with only hearing of the beauties of the lake
+of Jacarepagua, and N.S. da Pena, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>26<i>th.</i>&mdash;We left Affonsos by times this morning, and shortly afterwards
+met an original-looking group of travellers. First came rather a
+handsome woman, in a blue joseph and broad black hat, riding astride;
+then three gentlemen in Indian file, all natural Falstaffs, in enormous
+straw hats, and mounted on good well-groomed horses; next followed the
+lady's maid, also astride, with her mistress's portmanteau buckled
+behind her; and behind her the valet, with three leathern bags hanging
+to his saddle by long straps, so as to swing as low as the stirrups, and
+whose size and shape denoted the presence of at least a clean shirt;
+and, lastly, a bare-headed slave with two mules, one laden with baggage
+and provisions, and the other as a relay. They all saluted us gravely
+and courteously as they passed; and I thought I had gotten among some of
+Gil Blas' travellers in the neighbourhood of Oviedo or Astorga, so
+completely did they differ from any thing usual with us.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped, of course, at Campinha, to call on our hospitable hostess,
+Senhora Maria Rosa, and found her at a neighbour's house; whither we
+followed her, and found her surrounded by four of the prettiest women I
+have seen in Brazil. From the veranda, where we sat talking with them
+for some time, we had leisure to admire the country about Campinha,
+which was totally obscured the first time we passed by rain. It is of
+the same beautiful character with the rest we have seen, being
+distinguished by a new mud fort, now building on a little insulated
+knoll, which commands the road through the hills, and by the plain to
+the capital. The want of some such point of defence was felt when Du
+Clerc landed in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, at the beginning of the last
+century, and marched without stop to the city.</p>
+
+<p>After feeding our horses at the very pretty station of Rio Ferreira, we
+proceeded homewards; and arrived at Mr. May's in good time to dinner,
+having had a very pleasant excursion, and, on my part, seeing more of
+Brazil and Brazilians in these few days, passed entirely out of English
+reach, than in all the time I had been here before.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival at home I found news from Lord Cochrane of the 9th July,
+in latitude 6&deg; S., longitude 32&deg; W.; when half the army, colours,
+ammunition, and stores of Madeira had fallen into his hands, and he was
+in pursuit of the rest, intending afterwards to follow the Joa&#335; VI. and
+frigates. Should he be able to separate them, no doubt he will capture
+them; but alone, under his circumstances, against them, so armed and
+manned, I fear it will be impossible.&mdash;He has already effected more than
+could have been expected, or perhaps than any commander besides himself
+could have done. He attributes much to the imprudence, or imbecility of
+the enemy, whose plan of saving an army he likens to Sterne's marble
+sheet. However, others are just enough to him, to feel that no faults of
+the enemy's commander lessen his merit, or obscure the courage necessary
+to follow up, attack, and take half at least of a fleet of seventy
+sail,<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> well found and provisioned, and full of veteran troops.</p>
+
+<p>There is a letter from Lord Cochrane to the magistrates of Pernambuco
+published in the gazette. His Lordship, after mentioning his success,
+and stating his want of seamen, says, "We must have sailors to end the
+war. If Your Excellencies will give 24 milrees bounty, as at Rio de
+Janeiro, drawing on government for the same, you will do a great service
+to the country. I do not say Portuguese sailors, who are enemies; but
+sailors of <i>any other nation</i>."</p>
+
+<p>His Lordship mentions farther in his letters to Pernambuco, that his
+reasons for rather following up the transports at first, instead of the
+ships of war, which were the objects he had most at heart, were, lest
+the troops should land, as they had threatened, in some other port of
+Brazil, and commit new hostilities in the empire. And he concludes with
+announcing that he sends several flags taken from the enemy.</p>
+
+<p><i>August 29th.</i>&mdash;To-day I received a visit from Dona Maria de Jesus, the
+young woman who has lately distinguished herself in the war of the
+Reconcave. Her dress is that of a soldier of one of the Emperor's
+battalions, with the addition of a tartan kilt, which she told me she
+had adopted from a picture representing a highlander, as the most
+feminine military dress. What would the Gordons and MacDonalds say to
+this? The "garb of old Gaul," chosen as a womanish attire!&mdash;Her father
+is a Portuguese, named Gonsalvez de Almeida, and possesses a farm on the
+Rio do Pex, in the parish of San Jos&eacute;, in the Certa&#335;, about forty
+leagues inland from Cachoeira. Her mother was also a Portuguese; yet the
+young woman's features, especially her eyes and forehead, have the
+strongest characteristics of the Indians. Her father has another
+daughter by the same wife; since whose death he has married again, and
+the new wife and the young children have made home not very comfortable
+to Dona Maria de Jesus. The farm of the Rio do Pex is chiefly a cattle
+farm, but the possessor seldom knows or counts his numbers. Senhor
+Gonsalvez, besides his cattle, raises some cotton; but as the Certa&#335; is
+sometimes a whole year without rain, the quantity is uncertain. In wet
+years he may sell 400 arobas, at from four to five milrees; in dry
+seasons he can scarcely collect above sixty or seventy arobas, which may
+fetch from six to seven milrees. His farm employs twenty-six slaves.</p>
+
+<p>The women of the interior spin and weave for their household, and they
+also embroider very beautifully. The young women learn the use of
+fire-arms, as their brothers do, either to shoot game or defend
+themselves from the wild Indians.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="maria" id="maria"></a><a href="images/017.png"><img src="images/017tb.png" alt="Dona Maria de Jesus." /><br />
+Dona Maria de Jesus.</a></p>
+
+<p>Dona Maria told me several particulars concerning the country, and more
+concerning her own adventures. It appears, that early in the late war of
+the Reconcave, emissaries had traversed the country in all directions,
+to raise patriot recruits; that one of these had arrived at her father's
+house one day about dinner time; that her father had invited him in, and
+that after their meal he began to talk on the subject of his visit. He
+represented the greatness and the riches of Brazil, and the happiness to
+which it might attain if independent. He set forth the long and
+oppressive tyranny of Portugal; and the meanness of submitting to be
+ruled by so poor and degraded a country. He talked long and eloquently
+of the services Don Pedro had rendered to Brazil; of his virtues, and
+those of the Empress: so that at the last, said the girl, "I felt my
+heart burning in my "breast." Her father, however, had none of her
+enthusiasm of character. He is old, and said he neither could join the
+army himself, nor had he a son to send thither; and as to giving a slave
+for the ranks, what interest had a slave to fight for the independence
+of Brazil? He should wait in patience the result of the war, and be a
+peaceable subject to the winner. Dona Maria stole from home to the house
+of her own sister, who was married, and lived at a little distance. She
+recapitulated the whole of the stranger's discourse, and said she wished
+she was a man, that she might join the patriots. "Nay," said the sister,
+"if I had not a husband and children, for one half of what you say I
+would join the ranks for the Emperor." This was enough. Maria received
+some clothes belonging to her sister's husband to equip her; and as her
+father was then about to go to Cachoeira to dispose of some cottons, she
+resolved to take the opportunity of riding after him, near enough for
+protection in case of accident on the road, and far enough off to escape
+detection. At length being in sight of Cachoeira, she stopped; and going
+off the road, equipped herself in male attire, and entered the town.
+This was on Friday. By Sunday she had managed matters so well, that she
+had entered the regiment of artillery, and had mounted guard. She was
+too slight, however, for that service, and exchanged into the infantry,
+where she now is. She was sent hither, I believe, with despatches, and
+to be presented to the Emperor, who has given her an ensign's
+commission and the order of the cross, the decoration of which he
+himself fixed on her jacket.</p>
+
+<p>She is illiterate, but clever. Her understanding is quick, and her
+perceptions keen. I think, with education she might have been a
+remarkable person. She is not particularly masculine in her appearance,
+and her manners are gentle and cheerful. She has not contracted any
+thing coarse or vulgar in her camp life, and I believe that no
+imputation has ever been substantiated against her modesty. One thing is
+certain, that her sex never was known until her father applied to her
+commanding officer to seek her.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing very peculiar in her manners at table, excepting that
+she eats farinha with her eggs at breakfast and her fish at dinner,
+instead of bread, and smokes a segar after each meal; but she is very
+temperate.</p>
+
+<p>Sept. 8<i>th</i>, 1823.&mdash;I went with Mr. Hoste and Mr. Hately, of His
+Majesty's ship Briton, to Praya Grande, to see a party of Botecudo
+Indians, who are now there on a visit. As it is desired to civilise
+these people by every possible means, whenever they manifest a wish to
+visit the neighbourhood of the city, they are always encouraged and
+received kindly, fed to their hearts' content, and given clothes, and
+such trinkets and ornaments as they value. We saw about six men, and ten
+women, with some young children. The faces are rather square, with very
+high cheek-bones, and low contracted foreheads. Some of the young women
+are really pretty, of a light copper-colour, which glows all over when
+they blush; and two of the young men were decidedly handsome, with very
+dark eyes, (the usual colour of the eyes is hazel,) and aquiline noses;
+the rest were so disfigured by the holes cut in their lower lips and
+their ears to receive their barbarous ornaments, that we could scarcely
+tell what they were like. I had understood that the privilege of thus
+beautifying the face was reserved for the men,<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> but the women of
+this party were equally disfigured. We purchased from one of the men a
+mouth-piece, measuring an inch and a half in diameter. The ornaments
+used by these people are pieces of wood perfectly circular, which are
+inserted into the slit of the lip or ear, like a button, and are
+extremely frightful, especially when they are eating. It gives the mouth
+the appearance of an ape's; and the peculiar mumping it occasions is so
+hideously unnatural, that it gives credit to, if it did not originally
+suggest, the stories of their cannibalism.<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> The mouth is still more
+ugly without the lip-piece, the teeth appearing, and saliva running
+through.</p>
+
+<p>When we entered the room where the savages are lodged, most of them were
+lying in mats on the floor; some on their faces, and some on their
+backs. Three of the women were suckling their infants, and these were
+dressed only in coarse cotton petticoats; the rest of the females had
+cotton frocks, the men shirts and trousers, given them on their arrival
+here. As they are usually naked in the woods, their garments seemed to
+sit uneasily on them: their usual motions seemed slow and lazy; but when
+roused, there was a springy activity hardly fitting a human being, in
+all they did. They begged for money; and when we took out a few vintems,
+the women crowded round me, and pinched me gently to attract my
+attention. They had learned a few words of Portuguese, which they
+addressed to us, but discoursed together in their own tongue, which
+seemed like a series of half-articulate sounds.</p>
+
+<p>They had brought some of their bows and arrows with them of the rudest
+construction. The bow is of hard wood, with only two notches for the
+string. The arrows are of cane; some are pointed only with hard wood,
+others with a flat bit of cane tied with bark to the end of the hard
+wood: these arrows are five feet long; and I saw one of them penetrate
+several inches into the trunk of a tree, when shot by an Indian from his
+bow. I purchased one bow and two arrows. Most of these people had their
+hair closely clipped, excepting a tuft on the fore part of the head; and
+the men, who had slit their lips, had also pulled out their beards. The
+two handsome lads had cut their hair; but they had neither cut their
+lips nor pulled their beards. I tried to learn if this was a step
+towards civilisation, or if it was only that they had not reached the
+age when the ceremony of lip-slitting, &amp;c. is practised, the interpreter
+attending them not being able to explain any thing but what concerns
+their commonest wants and actions.</p>
+
+<p><i>September 9th.</i>&mdash;I took two very fine Brazilian boys, who are about to
+enter the Imperial naval service, to spend the day at the botanical
+garden, which appears in much better order than when I saw it two years
+ago. The hedge-rows of the Bencoolen nut (<i>Vernilzia Montana</i>) are
+prodigiously grown: the Norfolk Island pine has shot up like a young
+giant, and I was glad to find many of the indigenous trees had been
+placed here; such as the <i>Andraguoa</i>, the nut of which is the strongest
+known purge; the <i>Cambuc&aacute;</i>, whose fruit, as large as a russet apple, has
+the sub-acid taste of the gooseberry, to which its pulp bears a strong
+resemblance; the <i>Japatec-caba</i>, whose fruit is scarcely inferior to the
+damascene; and the <i>Grumachama</i>, whence a liquor, as good as that from
+cherries, is made: these three last are like laurels, and as beautiful
+as they are useful. I took my young friends to see the powder-mills,
+which are not now at work, being under repair; but they learned the
+manner of making powder, from the first weighing of the ingredients to
+the filling cartridges: and then we had our table spread in a pleasant
+part of the garden, under the shade of a jumbu tree, and made the head
+gardener, a very ingenious Dutchman, partake of our luncheon; which
+being over, he showed us the cinnamon they have barked here, and the
+other specimens of spice: the cloves are very fine, and the cinnamon
+might be so; but the wood they have barked is generally too old, and
+they have not yet the method of stripping the twigs: this I endeavoured
+to explain, as I had seen it practised in Ceylon. The camphor tree grows
+very well here, but I do not know if the gum has ever been collected.
+The two boys were highly delighted with their jaunt, and I not less so.
+Poor things! they are entering on a hard service; and God knows whether
+the two cousins da Costa may not hereafter look back to this day passed
+with a stranger, as a bright "spot of azure in a stormy sky."</p>
+
+<p><i>Sept. 13th</i>.&mdash;I rode again to the botanic gardens with Mr. Hoste and
+Mr. Hately. Our chief object this time was the powder-mills. After
+walking round the garden, we proceeded along the valley of the mills;
+and so beautiful and sequestered a place, in the bosom of the mountains,
+was surely never before chosen as a manufactory for so destructive an
+article: I suppose the great command of water for the machinery is the
+chief inducement to fix it here. The powder is mixed by pounding, the
+mortars being of rosewood, and the pestles of the same shod with copper;
+yet the mortar-hoops are iron, which seems to me to be a strange
+oversight. I do not understand these things, however; but the machinery
+interested me: it is extremely simple, and the timber used in the
+construction very beautiful. The principal mill blew up a few months
+since, and is now under repair; so that we had an opportunity of seeing
+the watercourses, dams, wheels, &amp;c., which we could not otherwise have
+enjoyed. We could not learn the relative strength of the powder. I have
+heard, however, that it is good. What I have seen is about as fine in
+grain as what we call priming powder in the navy. While we were walking
+about we were invited into several houses, by the overseers and other
+persons employed in the works, and pressed to eat and drink with great
+hospitality. The greatest liberality to strangers, indeed, exists in all
+public establishments here. For instance, at the botanic garden there is
+a constant nursery of the rare and the useful plants, which are given
+away, on application, to strangers and natives alike; so that not only
+the gardens of Brazil are stocked with the rarer productions of the
+East, but they are carried to different countries in Europe, prepared by
+this cooler climate for their farther transplantation.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th</i>.&mdash;I observed on the beach to-day a line of red sandy-looking
+matter, extending all along the shore, and tinging the sea for several
+feet from the edge. At night this red edge became luminous; and I now
+recollect when on the passage to India in 1809, that on observing a
+peculiar luminous appearance of the sea, we took up a bucket of water,
+and on examining it next morning, we observed a similar red grainy
+substance floating in it. It is the first time I have seen it here, and
+I cannot find that any body has paid any attention to it. Perhaps it is
+not worth noticing; but I am so much alone, that I have grown more and
+more alive to all the appearances of inanimate nature. Besides, I must
+make much of the country, as in a few days I have to take up my abode in
+one of the narrow close streets of Rio; and this not from choice. It is
+the custom here, and a very natural and pleasant one it is, for every
+family that can, to live in the country all the summer: so that the
+houses of every kind, in the country, are in great request. The term for
+which that I live in was hired is expired, and I am therefore obliged to
+leave it. My going to town, perhaps, might be avoided, but there are
+some things I shall probably learn more perfectly by living there; and,
+besides, does not Lord Bacon advise that in order to profit much from
+travel, one should not only move from city to city, "but change his
+lodgings from one end and part of the city to another?"</p>
+
+<p>The last fortnight has been extremely foggy, and rather cold; and we
+have had some fierce thunder-storms, that seem almost to rock the
+mountains, and threaten to bring them down upon us.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th</i>.&mdash;At length I am fixed in No. 79., Rua dos Pescadores, in the
+first floor of an excellent house, belonging to my kind friend Dr.
+Dickson, who himself inhabits a villa out of town; where he has a farm,
+a garden, a collection of minerals and insects, and all sorts of
+agreeable and profitable things, which he dispenses to others with the
+greatest good-nature. I am obliged to Sir Thomas Hardy for a pleasant
+passage to town from Botafogo, his carriage conveying me, and his boats
+my goods: so in a few hours I have changed my home, and have probably
+taken my leave of all English society, every body has such a dread of
+the heat of the town. However, as I look forward to going to England in
+a few months, perhaps in a few weeks, the more time I have for Brazil
+the better. My private affairs have so occupied me that I have scarcely
+had time to think of the public. Yet in the course of the last week the
+project of the constitution for Brazil, framed by the committee
+appointed, was sent from the Assembly to the Emperor; and yesterday the
+discussion of it, article by article, began in the full assembly.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th</i>.&mdash;One advantage has already arisen from my removal into town. I
+have received the very first news of the arrival of a ship from Lisbon
+with commissioners on the part of the King to the Emperor. I find, too,
+that at Lisbon they can publish false news, as well as in some other
+countries in Europe. That city had illuminated in consequence of news
+that Lord Cochrane had been beaten, and the Imperial navy destroyed by
+the Bahia squadron; and this illumination must have taken place just
+about the time that Madeira was evacuating the city, and flying before
+the Imperial Admiral's flag. As to the reception the commissioners are
+to meet with, it is doubtful. Some days since the brig 3&deg; de Maio
+arrived here, having on board Luiz Paolino as successor to Madeira; who,
+finding he could not get into Bahia, came hither, to present, it is
+said, his commission as governor of Bahia to His Imperial Majesty as
+Prince Regent; and it is also said that he was the bearer of some
+letters. But as none of these acknowledged the title, or independence of
+the empire of Brazil, they were not received; and the vessel has
+already sailed on her return to Lisbon. It is believed that the same
+fate will attend the present commissioners, Vieira and his colleague, if
+indeed the ship should not be condemned as a prize. But hitherto of
+course nothing is known.</p>
+
+<p>Another vessel also arrived with intelligence of some moment from Buenos
+Ayres. It appears that the captain of His Majesty's ship Brazen has been
+at variance with the authorities there concerning the old subject of the
+right of boarding vessels, the priority of which the Buenos Ayrians
+claim for their own health-boat. The Commodore means to go thither
+himself on the business, and I have no doubt all will be well and
+reasonably settled.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th</i>.&mdash;I went to-day to the public library to ask about some books,
+and am invited to go and use what I like there: the librarians are all
+extremely polite, and the library is open to all persons for six hours
+daily.</p>
+
+<p>I have also walked a great deal about the town, and have again visited
+the arsenals; in which very great improvements have been made and are
+making, particularly building sheds for the workmen. After an English
+arsenal, to be sure, the want of machinery and all the luxuries of
+labour is conspicuous; but the work is well done, and reminds me of that
+I used to see under the old Parsee builder in Bombay. They are laying
+down new ships and repairing old ones. I only wish they could form a
+nursery for seamen, because Brazil must have ships to guard her coasts.
+Fisheries off the Abrolhos, and from St. Catherine's, might perhaps do
+something towards it. From the arsenal I climbed the hill immediately
+overlooking it, where there is the convent of San Bento; where, it is
+said, there is a good library, but it is not accessible to women. The
+situation of the convent is delightful, overlooking both divisions of
+the harbour and the whole town, and the hills many a mile beyond. I am
+not sure whether a cloister or a prison, commanding a fine view, be
+preferable to one without. Whether the gazing on a beautiful scene be in
+itself a pleasure great enough to alleviate confinement; or whether it
+does not increase the longing for liberty in a way analogous to that in
+which a well-remembered air creates a longing, even to death, for the
+home where that air was first heard;&mdash;it seems to me as if, once
+imprisoned, I would break every association with liberty, and keep my
+eyes from wandering where my limbs must no longer bear me. However, I do
+suppose some may be, and some have been, happy in a cloister. I cannot
+envy them; I would fain not despise them.</p>
+
+<p><i>September 19th</i>.&mdash;Our little English world at Rio is grieving in one
+common mourning for the death of one of the youngest, and certainly the
+loveliest, of our countrywomen here. Beautiful and gay, and the lately
+married and cherished wife of a most worthy man, Mrs. N. died a short
+time after the birth of her first child. She had appeared to be
+recovering well; she relapsed and died. It is one of those events that
+excites sympathy in the hardest, and commiseration in the coldest.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d</i>.&mdash;I have been unwell again&mdash;but I find that staying at home does
+not cure me; so I went both yesterday and to-day to the library, where a
+pleasant, cool, little cabinet has been assigned to me, where whatever
+book I ask for is brought to me, and where I have pen, ink, and paper
+always placed to make notes. This is a kindness and attention to a woman
+and a stranger that I was hardly prepared for. The library was brought
+hither from Lisbon in 1810, and placed in its present situation, which
+was once the hospital belonging to the Carmelites. That hospital was
+removed to a healthier and more commodious situation, and the rooms,
+admirably adapted to the purpose, received the books, of which there are
+between sixty and seventy thousand volumes. The greater number are books
+of theology and law. There is a great deal of ecclesiastical history,
+and particularly all the Jesuits' accounts of South America. General and
+civil history are not wanting; and there are good editions of the
+classics. There are some fine works on natural history; but, excepting
+these, nothing modern; scarcely a book having been bought for sixty
+years. But a noble addition was made to the establishment by the
+purchase of the Conde de Barca's library; in which there are some
+valuable modern works, and a very fine collection of topographical
+prints of all parts of the world.</p>
+
+<p>I have begun to read diligently every scrap of Brazilian history I can
+find; and I have commenced by a collection of pamphlets, newspapers,
+some MS. letters and proclamations, from the year 1576 to 1757, bound up
+together<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a>; some of these tracts Mr. Southey mentions, others he
+probably had not seen, but they contain nothing very material that he
+has not in his history. This morning's study of Brazilian history in the
+original language is one great advantage I derive from my removal into
+town. Besides which, I speak now less English than Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th</i>.&mdash;Having now received the portrait which Mr. Erle, an ingenious
+young English artist, has been painting of the Senhora Alerez Dona Maria
+de Jesus, I took it to show it to her friend and patron, Jose Bonifacio
+de Andrada e Silva.</p>
+
+<p>I never spend half an hour any where with more pleasure and profit than
+with the ex-minister's family. His lady is of Irish parentage, an
+O'Leary, a most amiable and kind woman, and truly appreciating the worth
+and talent of her husband; and all the nephews and other relations I
+meet there appear superior in education and understanding to the
+generality of persons I see. But it is Jose Bonifacio himself who
+attracts and interests me most. He is a small man, with a thin lively
+countenance; and his manner and conversation at once impress the
+beholder with the idea of that restless activity of mind which</p>
+
+<p class="c">"O'er-informs its tenement of clay,"</p>
+
+<p>and is but too likely to wear out the body that contains it. The first
+time I saw him in private was after he ceased to be minister, his
+occupations before that time leaving him little leisure for private
+society. I was curious to see the retreat of a public man. I found him
+surrounded by young people and children, some of whom he took on his
+knee and caressed; and I could easily see that he was very popular among
+the small people. To me, as a stranger, he was most ceremoniously yet
+kindly polite, and conversed on all subjects and of all countries. He
+has visited most of those of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>His library is well stored with books in all languages. The collection
+on chemistry and on mining is particularly extensive, and rich in
+Swedish and German authors. These, indeed, are subjects peculiarly
+interesting to Brazil, and have naturally been of first-rate interest to
+him. But his delight is classical literature; and he is himself a poet
+of no mean order. Perhaps my knowledge of Portuguese does not entitle me
+to judge particularly on the vehicle or language of his poetry; but if
+lofty thoughts, new and beautiful combinations, keen sensibility, and a
+love of beauty and of nature, be essential to poetry, the poems he read
+to me to-day have them all. There is one in particular, on the Creation
+of Woman, glowing as the sun under which it was written, and as pure as
+his light. Perhaps it derived some of its merit from his manner of
+reading it, which, though not what is called fine reading, is full of
+character and intelligence.</p>
+
+<p>To-day, Jose Bonifacio gave me a translation from Meleager, which seems
+to me very beautiful. It was written at Lisbon in 1816, and two or three
+copies printed by one of his friends, and the last of these is now
+mine.<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a></p>
+
+<p>Let no one say, 'that he is too miserable for any comfort to reach him.
+I am alone, and a widow, and in a foreign land; my health weak, my
+nerves irritable, and having neither wealth nor rank; forced to receive
+obligations painful and discordant with my former habits and prejudices,
+and often meeting with impertinence from those who take advantage of my
+solitary situation: but I am nevertheless sure that I have more
+<i>half-hours</i>, I dare not say <i>hours</i>, of true enjoyment, and fewer days
+of real misery, than half of those whom the world accounts happy. And I
+thank God, who gave me the temper to feel grief exquisitely, that he at
+the same time gave me an equal capacity for joy. And it is a joy to find
+minds that can understand and communicate with our own; to meet
+occasionally with persons of similar habits of thinking, and who, when
+the business of life rests a while, seek recreation in the same
+pursuits. This delight I do oftener enjoy than I could have hoped, so
+far from cultivated Europe. One or two of my friends are, indeed, like
+costly jewels, not to be worn every day; but there are several of
+sterling metal that even here disarm the ills of this "working-day
+world" of half their sting.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sept. 26th, 1823</i>.&mdash;A marriage in high life engages many of the talkers
+of Rio. A fidalgo, an officer distinguished under Beresford, Don
+Francisco&mdash;&mdash;, whose other name I have forgotten, is fortunate enough to
+have obtained one of the loveliest grand-daughters of the Baroness de
+Campos, <i>Maria de Loreto</i>; whose extraordinary likeness to our own
+Princess Charlotte of Wales is such, that I am sure no English person
+can have seen her without being struck with it. Here, no unmarried women
+are allowed to be present at a marriage; but the ceremony is performed
+in the presence of the nearest relations, being married, on both sides.
+The mother of the bride sends notice to court, if she be of rank to do
+so, afterwards to other ladies, according to their degree, of the
+marriage of her daughter. The bride then goes to court; after which the
+ladies visit her, and proceed to congratulate the other members of the
+family. It is said this match is one in which the lawful lord of such
+things, i.e. Master Cupid, has had more to do than he is usually allowed
+to have in Brazil, even since it was independent; and truly a handsomer
+couple will not often be seen. I am glad of it. Surely free choice on
+such an important subject is as much to be desired as on any other. On
+this occasion,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The god of love, who stood to spy them,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The god of love, who must be nigh them,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pleased and tickled at the sight,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sneezed aloud; and at his right<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The little loves that waited by,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Bow'd and bless'd the augury;"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>as my favourite Cowley says; and I hope we shall have more such free
+matches in our free Brazil, where, hitherto, the course of true love is
+apt not to run smooth, that is, if my informants on the subject are in
+the right. Seriously, perhaps there has not hitherto been refinement
+enough for the delicate metaphysical love of Europe; which, because it
+is more rational, more noble, than all others, is less easily turned
+aside into other channels. Grandison or Clarissa could not have been
+written here; but I think ere long we may look for the polish and
+prudent morals of Belinda.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sept. 29th</i>.&mdash;I went to the orphan asylum, which is also the foundling
+hospital. The orphan boys are apprenticed at a proper age. The girls
+have a portion of 200 milrees; which, though little, assists in their
+establishment, and is often eked out from other funds. The house is
+exceedingly clean, and so are the beds for the foundling children, only
+three of whom are now in-door nurslings, the rest being placed out in
+the country. Till lately they have died in a proportion frightful
+compared with their numbers.<a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> Within little more than nine years,
+10,000 children have been received: these were placed out at nurse, and
+many were never accounted for. Not perhaps that they all died, because
+the temptation of retaining a mulatto child as a slave, would most
+likely secure care of its life; but the white ones had not even this
+chance of safety. Besides, the wages paid for the nursing of each was
+formerly so little, that the poor creatures who received them could
+hardly have afforded them the means of subsistence. A partial amendment
+has taken place, and still greater improvements are about to be made.
+There is a great want of medical treatment. Many of the foundlings are
+placed in the wheel<a name="FNanchor_127_127" id="FNanchor_127_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a>, full of disease, fever, or more often a
+dreadful species of itch called sarna, and which is often fatal to them.
+Nay, dead children are also brought, that they may be decently interred.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="burial" id="burial"></a><a href="images/018.png"><img src="images/018tb.png" alt="The English Burial Ground." /><br />
+The English Burial Ground.</a></p>
+
+<p>From the asylum, I crossed the street to the great hospital of the
+Misericordia. It is a fine building, and has plenty of room; but it is
+not in so good a state as might be wished: there are usually four
+hundred patients, and the number of deaths very great; but I could not
+learn the exact proportion. The medical department is in great want of
+reform. The insane ward interested me most of all: it is on the ground
+floor, very cold and damp; and most of those placed in it die speedily
+of consumptive complaints. I found here a contradiction to the vulgar
+opinion, that hydrophobia is not known in Brazil. A poor negro had been
+bitten by a mad dog a month ago; he did not seem very ill till yesterday
+morning, when he was sent here. He was at the grate of his cell as we
+passed him, in a deplorable state: knowing the gentleman who was with
+me, he had hoped he would release him from confinement; this of course
+could not be: he expired a few hours after we saw him. The burial-ground
+of the Misericordia is so much too small as to be exceedingly
+disgusting, and, I should imagine, unwholesome for the neighbourhood. I
+had long wished to do what I have done to-day. I think the more persons
+that show an interest in such establishments the better: it fixes
+attention upon them; and that of itself must do good. Yet my courage had
+hitherto failed, and I owe the excursion of this morning to accident
+rather than design.</p>
+
+<p>I rode this evening to the protestant burial-ground, at the Praya de
+Gamboa. I think it one of the loveliest spots I ever beheld, commanding
+beautiful views every way. It slopes gradually towards the road along
+the shore: at the highest point there is a pretty building, consisting
+of three chambers; one serves as a place of meeting or waiting for the
+clergyman occasionally; one as a repository for the mournful furniture
+of the grave; and the largest, which is between the other two, is
+generally occupied by the body of the dead for the few hours, it may be
+a day and a night, which can in this climate elapse between death and
+burial: in front of this are the various stones, and urns, and vain
+memorials we raise to relieve our own sorrow; and between these and the
+road, some magnificent trees. Three sides of this field are fenced by
+rock or wood. Even Crabbe's fanciful and delicate Jane might have
+thought without pain of sleeping here.<a name="FNanchor_128_128" id="FNanchor_128_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> In my illness I had often
+felt sorry that I had not seen this ground. I am satisfied now; and if
+my still lingering weakness should lay me here, the very, very few who
+may come to see where their friend lies will feel no disgust at the
+prison-house.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th</i>.&mdash;I called at a very agreeable Brazilian lady's house to-day; and
+saw, for the first time in my life, a regular Brazilian <i>bas-blue</i> in
+the person of Dona Maria Clara: she reads a good deal, especially
+philosophy and politics; she is a tolerable botanist, and draws flowers
+exceedingly well; besides, she is what I think it is Miss Edgeworth
+calls "a fetcher and carrier of bays,"&mdash;a useful member of society, who,
+without harming herself or others, circulates the necessary literary
+news, and would be invaluable where new authors want puffing, and new
+poems should have the pretty passages pointed out for the advantage of
+literary misses. Here, alas! such kindly offices are confined to
+comparing the rival passages in the Correiro and the Sentinella, or
+advocating the cause of the editor of the Sylpho or the Tamoyo. But, in
+sober earnest, I was delighted to find such a lady. Without arrogating
+much more than is due to the sex, it may claim some small influence over
+the occupations and amusements of home; and the woman who brings books
+instead of cards or private scandal into the domestic circle, is likely
+to promote a more general cultivation, and a more refined taste, in the
+society to which she belongs.</p>
+
+<p><i>October 1st, 1823</i>.&mdash;The court and city are in a state of rejoicing.
+Lord Cochrane has secured Maranham for the Emperor. Once more I break in
+on my own rule, and copy part of his letter to me:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="r">"Maranham, August 12th, 1823.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;"My dear Madam,</p>
+
+<p>"You would receive a few lines from me, dated from off Bahia, and also
+from the latitude of Pernambuco, saying briefly what we were about then.
+And now I have to add, that we followed the Portuguese squadron to the
+fifth degree of north latitude, and until only thirteen sail remained
+together out of seventy of their convoy; and then, judging it better for
+the interests of His Imperial Majesty, I hauled the wind for Maranham;
+and I have the pleasure to tell you, that my plan of adding it to the
+empire has had complete success. I ran in with this ship abreast of
+their forts; and having sent a notice of blockade, and intimated that
+the squadron of Bahia and Imperial forces were off the bar, the
+Portuguese flag was hauled down, and every thing went on without
+bloodshed, just as you could wish. We have found here a Portuguese brig
+of war, a schooner, and eight gun-boats; also sixteen merchant vessels,
+and a good deal of property belonging to Portuguese resident in Lisbon,
+deposited in the custom-house. The brig of war late the Infante Don
+Miguel, now the Maranham, is gone down with Grenfell to summon Para,
+where there is a beautiful newly-launched fifty-gun frigate, which I
+have no doubt but he has got before now. Thus, my dear Madam, on my
+return I shall have the pleasure to acquaint His Imperial Majesty, that
+between the extremities of his empire there exists no enemy either on
+shore or afloat. This will probably be within the sixth month from our
+sailing from Rio, and at this moment is actually the case."</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Together with this letter, His Lordship has sent me the public papers
+concerning the taking possession of the place for the Emperor, and the
+officer who brought the despatches has obligingly favoured me with
+farther particulars; so that I believe the following to be a correct
+account, as far as it goes, of the whole.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as it was perceived on board the Pedro Primeiro, by the orders
+given by Lord Cochrane for the course of the ship, that he had resolved
+on going to Maranham, the pilots became uneasy on account of the
+dangerous navigation of the coast, and, as they said, the impossibility
+of entering the harbour in so large a ship. I have often felt that there
+was something very captivating in the word <i>impossible</i>. The Admiral,
+however, had better motives, and had skill and knowledge to support his
+perseverance; and so on the 26th of July, he entered the bay of San Luis
+de Maranham, under English colours. Seeing a vessel of war off the
+place, he sent a boat on board; and though some of the sailors
+recognised two of the boat's crew, the officer, Mr. Shepherd, performed
+his part so well, that he obtained all the necessary information; and
+the Admiral then went in with his ship, and anchored under fort San
+Francisco. Thence he sent in the following papers to the city.</p>
+
+<p class="c">"<i>Address to the Authorities</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>"The forces of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, having
+delivered the city and province of Bahia from the enemies of their
+independence, I, in conformity to the wishes of His Imperial
+Majesty, am desirous that the fruitful province of Maranham should
+enjoy a like freedom. I am now come to offer to the unfortunate
+inhabitants the protection and assistance necessary against the
+oppression of foreigners, wishing to accomplish their freedom, and
+to salute them as brethren and as friends. But should there be any
+who, from vexatious motives, oppose the liberation of this country,
+such persons may be assured that the naval and military forces
+which expelled the Portuguese from the South, are ready to draw the
+sword in the same just cause: and that sword once drawn, the
+consequences cannot be doubtful. I beg the principal authorities to
+make known to me their decisions, in order that, in case of
+opposition, the consequences may not be imputed to the hasty manner
+in which I set about the work which I must achieve. God keep Your
+Excellencies many years!&mdash;<i>On board the Pedro Primeiro, 26th July,
+1823</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="c">"<i>Proclamation</i></p>
+
+<p>"By His Excellency Lord Cochrane, Admiral and Commander-in-Chief of
+the naval forces of His Imperial Majesty.</p>
+
+<p>"The port, river, and island of Maranham, the bay of San Jos&eacute;, and
+roads adjacent, are declared to be in a state of blockade, as long
+as the Portuguese shall exercise the supreme authority there; and
+all entrance or departure is strictly prohibited, under those pains
+and penalties authorised by the law of nations against those who
+violate the rights of belligerents.&mdash;<i>On board the Pedro Primeiro,
+26th July, 1823</i>."</p></div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>These papers were received by the junta of Provisional Government, at
+whose head was the Bishop. There had previously been some movements in
+favour of independence, but they had been over-ruled by the Portuguese
+troops, of whom there were about 300 in the town. The junta of course
+accepted all Lord Cochrane's proposals; the 1st of August was appointed
+as the day for electing a new government under the empire, and the
+intermediate days for taking the oaths to the Emperor, and for embarking
+the Portuguese troops; a step the more necessary, as they had shown a
+disposition to oppose the Brazilians, and had even insulted Captain
+Crosbie and others as they were landing to settle affairs with the
+government. Besides, they were hourly in expectation of a reinforcement
+of 500 men from Lisbon. Meantime the anchorage under Fort Francisco was
+found inconvenient for so large a ship as the Pedro Primeiro, and the
+Admiral took her round the great shoal which forms the other side of the
+harbour, and anchored her between the Ilha do Medo and the main in
+fifteen fathoms water; where he left her, and returned to the town in
+the sloop of war Pambinha, in which vessel he could lie close to the
+city itself. One of his first steps was to substitute Brazilian for
+Portuguese troops, in all situations where soldiers were absolutely
+necessary to keep order; but he did not admit more than a very limited
+number within the walls. He caused all who had been imprisoned on
+account of their political opinions to be liberated; and he sent notices
+to the independent military commanders of C&eacute;ara and Piauhy to desist
+from hostilities against Maranham.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th, Lord Cochrane published the following proclamation:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"<i>The High Admiral of Brazil to the Inhabitants of Maranham</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"The auspicious day is arrived on which the worthy inhabitants of
+Maranham have it in their power to declare at once the independence of
+their country, and their adhesion to, and satisfaction with, their
+patriot monarch, the Emperor Peter I. (son of the august Sovereign Don
+John VI.); under whose protection they enjoy the glorious privileges of
+being free men, of choosing their own constitution, and of making their
+own laws by their representatives assembled to consult on their own
+interests, and in their own country.</p>
+
+<p>"That the glory of such a day should not be darkened by any excess, even
+though proceeding from enthusiasm in the cause we have embraced, must be
+the desire of every honest and thinking citizen. It is not necessary to
+advise such as to their conduct: but, should there be any individuals
+capable of interrupting the public tranquillity on any pretext, let them
+beware! The strictest orders are given for the chastisement of whoever
+shall cause any kind of disorder, according to the degree of the crime.
+To take the necessary oaths, to choose the members of the civil
+government, are acts that should be performed with deliberation: for
+which reason, the first of August is the earliest day which the
+preparation for such solemn ceremonies demands, will permit.&mdash;Citizens!
+let us go forward seriously and methodically, without tumult, hurry, or
+confusion; and accomplish the work we have in hand in such a manner as
+shall merit the approbation of His Imperial Majesty, and shall give us
+neither cause for repentance, nor room for amendment. Viva, our Emperor!
+Viva, the independence and constitution of Brazil!&mdash;<i>On board the Pedro
+Primeiro, 27th July, 1823</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="r"><span class="smcap">Cochrane</span>."</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th, the junta of government, the camara of the town, the
+citizens and soldiers, with Captain Crosbie to represent Lord Cochrane,
+who was not well enough to attend, assembled to proclaim the
+independence of Brazil, and to swear allegiance to the Emperor, Don
+Pedro de Alcantara; after which there was a firing of the troops, and
+discharge of artillery, and ringing of bells, as is usual on such
+occasions. The public act of fealty was drawn up, and signed by as many
+as could conveniently do so, and the Brazilian flag was hoisted, a flag
+of truce having been flying from the arrival of the Pedro till then.</p>
+
+<p>The next day the inhabitants proceeded to the choice of their new
+provisional government of the province, which was installed on the 8th
+of August, as had been appointed. The members are, Miguel Ignacio dos
+Santos Freire e Bruce, <i>President</i>; Louren&ccedil;o de Castro Belford,
+<i>Secretary</i>; and Jos&eacute; Joaquim Vieira Belford.</p>
+
+<p>The first act of the new government was to issue a proclamation to the
+inhabitants of the province of Maranham, congratulating them on being no
+longer a nation of slaves to Portugal, but a free people of the empire
+of Brazil; exhorting them to confidence, fidelity, and tranquillity; and
+concluding with vivas to the Roman Catholic religion; to our
+Constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender Don Pedro I., and his
+dynasty; to the Cortes of Brazil, and the people of Maranham.</p>
+
+<p>The letter of the new government to His Imperial Majesty is dated the
+12th of August, when every thing was finally settled. It begins by
+congratulating him on the happy state of things in general in Brazil. It
+then sets forth the wishes of the people of Maranham to have joined
+their brethren long since, but that these wishes had been thwarted by
+the Lisbon troops.&mdash;"But what was our joy and transport when
+unexpectedly we saw the ship Pedro Primeiro summoning our port!!! Oh,
+26th of July, 1823! Thrice happy day! thou wilt be as conspicuous in the
+annals of our province, as the sentiments of gratitude and respect
+inspired by the virtues of the illustrious Admiral sent to our aid by
+the best and most amiable of Monarchs will be deeply engraven on our
+hearts and those of our posterity! Yes, august Sire! the wisdom, the
+prudence, and the gentle manners of Lord Cochrane, have contributed
+still more to the happy issue of our political difficulties, than even
+the fear of his forces, however respectable they might be. To anchor in
+our port; to proclaim independence; to administer the proper oaths of
+obedience to Your Imperial Majesty; to suspend hostilities throughout
+the province; to cause a new government to be elected; to bring the
+troops of the country into the town, and then only in sufficient numbers
+for the public order and tranquillity; to open communication between the
+interior and the capital; to provide it with necessaries; and to restore
+navigation and commerce to their pristine state: all this, <span class="smcap">Sire</span>, was the
+work of a few days. Grant, Heaven, that this noble Chief may end the
+glorious career of his political and military labours with the like
+felicity and success; and that Your Imperial Majesty being so well
+served, nothing more may be necessary to immortalise that admirable
+commander, not only in the annals of Brazil, but in those of the whole
+world!"</p>
+
+<p>And this, I think, is all of importance that I have learned with regard
+to the capture of Maranham to-day. It is true, the brig Maria,
+despatched by His Lordship on the 12th of August, only arrived to-day;
+so that much may be behind.</p>
+
+<p><i>2d October</i>.&mdash;A friend who was present at the Assembly to-day gives me
+the following account of the debate.&mdash;In the first place, the Emperor
+sent notice of Lord Cochrane's success at Maranham; and Martim Francisco
+Ribiero de Andrada rose and proposed a vote of thanks to His Lordship.
+The deputy Montezuma (of Bahia) opposed this, on the ground that he was
+the servant of the executive government, and the government ought to
+thank him. He felt as grateful to Lord Cochrane as any member of the
+Assembly could do, and would do as much to prove his gratitude; but he
+would not vote to thank him there. Dr. Fran&ccedil;a (known by the nickname of
+Franzinho) seconded Montezuma, and said it derogated from the dignity of
+the legislative assembly of the vast, and noble, and rich empire of
+Brazil, to vote thanks to any individual. On which Costa Barros, in a
+speech of eloquence and enthusiasm, maintained the propriety of thanking
+Lord Cochrane. That the triumphal road, as in ancient Rome, did not now
+exist; but the triumph might be granted by the voice of the national
+representatives. The gentleman who thought no thanks should be voted
+was a member for Bahia, and talked of his gratitude. He could tell him,
+that grateful as he (Costa Barros) now felt, were he, like that
+gentleman, a member for Bahia, his gratitude, and his eagerness to
+express it, would be tenfold. Who but Lord Cochrane had delivered Bahia
+from the Portuguese, that swarm of drones that threatened to devour the
+land? But he supposed the greatness of Sen. Montezuma's gratitude was
+such, that it smothered the expression. This produced a laugh, and that
+a challenge, and then a cry of "order, order" (<i>a ordem</i>).</p>
+
+<p>Sen. Ribiero de Andrada then said, that as to the observation that had
+fallen from Fran&ccedil;a, that His Lordship had only done his duty, was no man
+to be thanked for doing an important duty? Besides, though the blockade
+of Bahia was a duty, the reduction of Maranham was something more&mdash;it
+was undertaken on his own judgment, and at the risk of consequences to
+himself. Sen. Lisboa observed, that as to its being beneath the dignity
+of the Representative Assembly of Brazil to thank an individual, the
+English Parliament scrupled not to thank its naval and military chiefs;
+and could what it did be beneath the Assembly of Brazil? Would to God
+the Assembly might one day emulate the British Parliament!</p>
+
+<p>After this there was more sparring between Montezuma and Costa Barros:
+the former resuming the subject of the challenge; Barros bowing, and
+assuring him he did not refuse it: on which a member on the same side
+observed sarcastically, only half rising as he spoke, that those who
+meant really to fight would hardly speak it aloud in the <i>General
+Assembly</i>. This ended the dispute; and the vote of thanks was carried
+with only the voices of Montezuma and Fran&ccedil;a against it; and so passed
+this day's session.</p>
+
+<p>I must say for the people here, that they do seem sensible that in Lord
+Cochrane they have obtained a treasure. * * * * That there are some who
+find fault, and some who envy, is very true. But when was it otherwise?
+Sometimes I cry,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O, what a world is this, where what is comely<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Envenoms him that bears it!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>At others, I take it more easily, and say coolly with the Spaniard,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Envy was honour's wife, the wise man said,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ne'er to be parted till the man was dead:"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>and neither envy, nor any other injurious feeling, nor all the
+manifestations of them all together, can ever lessen the real merit of
+so great a man.</p>
+
+<p>The acquisition of Maranham is exceedingly important to the empire: it
+is one of the provinces that, from the time of its first settlement, has
+carried on the greatest foreign trade.<a name="FNanchor_129_129" id="FNanchor_129_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>6th</i>.&mdash;We had three days of public rejoicing, on account of the taking
+of Maranham; and on Friday, as I happened to be at the palace to show
+some drawings to the Empress, I perceived that the Emperor's levee was
+unusually crowded. During these few days, though I have been far from
+well, I have improved my acquaintance with my foreign friends; but of
+English I see, and wish to see, very little of any body but Mrs. May.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th</i>.&mdash;I resolved to take a holiday: so went to spend it with Mrs. May,
+at the Gloria, only going first for half an hour to the library. That
+library is a great source of comfort to me: I every day find my cabinet
+quiet and cool, and provided with the means of study, and generally
+spend four hours there, reading Portuguese and Brazilian history; for
+which I shall not, probably, have so good an opportunity again.</p>
+
+<p>This day the debate in the Assembly has been most interesting. It is
+some time since, in discussing that part of the proposed constitution,
+which treats of the persons who are to be considered as Brazilians,
+entitled to the protection of the laws of the empire, and amenable to
+those laws, the 8th paragraph of the 5th article was admitted without a
+dissentient voice: it is this&mdash;"<i>All naturalised strangers, whatever be
+their religion</i>." To-day the 3d paragraph of the 7th article came under
+discussion. This article treats of the individual rights of Brazilians;
+it runs thus&mdash;"The constitution guarantees to all Brazilians the
+following individual rights, with the explanations and limitations
+thereafter expressed:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table summary="rights">
+<tr><td align="right">"I.</td><td>Personal Freedom.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">II.</td><td>Trial by Jury.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">III.</td><td>Religious Freedom.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">IV.</td><td>Professional Freedom.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">V.</td><td>Inviolability of Property.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">VI.</td><td>Liberty of the Press."</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The 14th article goes on to state, that all Christians may enjoy the
+political rights of the empire: 15th, "Other religions are hardly
+tolerated, and none but Christians shall enjoy political rights;" and
+the 16th declares the Roman Catholic religion to be that of the state,
+and the only one beneficed by the state.</p>
+
+<p>Now this day's discussion was not merely one of form; but it has
+established toleration in all its extent. A man is at liberty to
+exercise his faith as he pleases, and even to change it: should he,
+indeed, have the folly to turn Turk, he must not vote at elections, nor
+be a member of the Assembly, nor enjoy an office in the state, civil or
+military; but he may sit under his vine and his fig-tree, and exercise
+an honest calling. All Christians are eligible to all offices and
+employments; and I only wish older countries would deign to take lessons
+from this new government in its noble liberality. The Diario of the
+Assembly is so far behind with the reports of the sessions, that I have
+not, of course, a correct account of the speeches; but I believe that I
+am not wrong in attributing to the Bishop the most benevolent and
+enlightened views on this momentous subject, together with that laudable
+attachment to the church of his fathers that belongs to good men of
+every creed.</p>
+
+<p><i>October 12th</i>.&mdash;This is the Emperor's birth-day, and the first
+anniversary of the coronation. I was curious to see the court of Brazil;
+so I rose early and dressed myself, and went to the royal chapel, where
+the Emperor and Empress, and the Imperial Princess were to be with the
+court before the drawing-room. I accordingly applied to the chaplain
+for a station, who showed me into what is called the <i>diplomatic</i>
+tribune, but it is in fact for respectable foreigners: there I met all
+manner of consuls. However, the curiosity which led me to the chapel
+would not allow me to go home when the said consuls did; so I went to
+the drawing-room, which perhaps, after all, I should not have done,
+being quite alone, had not the gracious manner in which their Imperial
+Majesties saluted me, both in the chapel and afterwards in the corridor
+leading to the royal apartments, induced me to proceed. I reached the
+inner room where the ladies were, just as the Emperor had, with a most
+pleasing compliment, announced to Lady Cochrane that she was Marchioness
+of Maranham; for that he had made her husband Marques, and had conferred
+on him the highest degree of the order of the Cruceiro. I am sometimes
+absent; and now, when I ought to have been most attentive, I felt myself
+in the situation Sancho Pan&ccedil;a so humorously describes, of sending my
+wits wool-gathering, and coming home shorn myself: for I was so intent
+on the honour conferred on my friend and countryman; so charmed, that
+for once his services had been appreciated,&mdash;that when I found the
+Emperor in the middle of the room, and that his hand was extended
+towards me, and that all others had paid their compliments and passed to
+their places, I forgot I had my glove on, took his Imperial hand with
+that glove, and I suppose kissed it much in earnest, for I saw some of
+the ladies smile before I remembered any thing about it. Had this
+happened with regard to any other prince, I believe that I should have
+run away; but nobody is more good-natured than Don Pedro: I saw there
+was no harm done; and so determining to be on my guard when the Empress
+came in, and then to take an opportunity of telling her of my fault, I
+stayed quietly, and began talking to two or three young ladies who were
+at court for the first time, and had just received their appointment as
+ladies of honour to the Empress.</p>
+
+<p>Her Majesty, who had retired with the young Princess, now came in, and
+the ladies all paid their compliments while the Emperor was busy in the
+presence-chamber receiving the compliments of the Assembly and other
+public bodies. There was little form and no stiffness. Her Imperial
+Majesty conversed easily with every body, only telling us all to speak
+Portuguese, which of course we did. She talked a good deal to me about
+English authors, and especially of the Scotch novels, and very kindly
+helped me in my Portuguese; which, though I now understand, I have few
+opportunities of speaking to cultivated persons. If I have been pleased
+with her before, I was charmed with her now. When the Emperor had
+received the public bodies, he came and led the Empress into the great
+receiving room, and there, both of them standing on the upper step of
+the throne, they had their hands kissed by naval, military, and civil
+officers, and private men; thousands, I should think, thus passed. It
+was curious, but it pleased me, to see some negro officers take the
+small white hand of the Empress in their clumsy black hands, and apply
+their pouting African lips to so delicate a skin; but they looked up to
+<i>Nosso Emperador</i>, and to her, with a reverence that seemed to me a
+promise of faith <i>from them</i>, a bond of kindness <i>to</i> them. The Emperor
+was dressed in a very rich military uniform, the Empress in a white
+dress embroidered with gold, a corresponding cap with feathers tipped
+with green; and her diamonds were superb, her head-tire and ear-rings
+having in them opals such as I suppose the world does not contain, and
+the brilliants surrounding the Emperor's picture, which she wears, the
+largest I have seen.</p>
+
+<p>I should do wrong not to mention the ladies of the court. My partial
+eyes preferred my pretty countrywoman the new Marchioness; but there
+were the sweet young bride Maria de Loreto, and a number of others of
+most engaging appearance; and then there were the jewels of the
+Baronessa de Campos, and those of the Visconde&ccedil;a do Rio Seco, only
+inferior to those of the Empress: but I cannot enumerate all the riches,
+or beauty; nor would it entertain my English friends, for whom this
+journal is written, if I could.</p>
+
+<p>When their Imperial Majesties came out of the great room, I saw Madame
+do Rio Seco in earnest conversation with them; and soon I saw her and
+Lady Cochrane kissing hands, and found they had both been appointed
+honorary ladies of the Empress; and then the Viscountess told me she had
+been speaking to the Empress about me. This astonished me, for I had no
+thought of engaging in any thing away from England. Six months before,
+indeed, I had said that I was so pleased with the little Princess, that
+I should like to educate her. This, which I thought no more of at the
+time, was, like every thing in this gossiping place, told to Sir T.
+Hardy: he spoke of it to me, and said he had already mentioned it to a
+friend of mine. I said, that if the Emperor and Empress chose, as a warm
+climate agreed with me, I should not dislike it; that it required
+consideration; and that if I could render myself sufficiently agreeable
+to the Empress, I should ask the appointment of governess to the
+Princess; and so matters stood when Sir Thomas Hardy sailed for Buenos
+Ayres. I own that the more I saw of the Imperial family, the more I
+wished to belong to it; but I was frightened at the thoughts of Rio, by
+the impertinent behaviour of some of the English, so that I should
+probably not have proposed the thing myself. It was done, however: the
+Empress told me to apply to the Emperor. I observed he looked tired with
+the levee, and begged to be allowed to write to her another day. She
+said, "Write if you please, but come and see the Emperor at five o'clock
+to-morrow." And so they went out, and I remained marvelling at the
+chance that had brought me into a situation so unlike any thing I had
+ever contemplated; and came home to write a letter to Her Imperial
+Majesty, and to wonder what I should do next.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, October 13th.</i>&mdash;I wrote my letter to the Empress, and was
+punctual to the time for seeing the Emperor. He received me very kindly,
+and sent me to speak to Her Imperial Majesty, who took my letter, and
+promised me an answer in two days, adding the most obliging expressions
+of personal kindness. And this was certainly the first letter I ever
+wrote on the subject; though my English <i>friends</i> tell me that I had a
+memorial in my hand yesterday, and that I went to court only to deliver
+it, for they saw it in my hand. Now I had a white pocket-handkerchief
+and a black fan in my hand, and thought as little of speaking about my
+own affairs to their Imperial Majesties, as of making a voyage to the
+moon. But people will always know each other's affairs best.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th.</i>&mdash;I have continued going regularly to the library, and have
+become acquainted with the principal librarian, who is also the
+Emperor's confessor. He is a polished and well-informed man. He showed
+me the Conde da Barca's library, which, as I knew before, had been
+purchased at the price of 15,530,900 rees, and added to the public
+collection. To-day, on returning from my study I received a letter from
+the Empress, written in English, full of kind expressions; and in the
+pleasantest manner accepting, in the Emperor's name and her own, my
+services as governess to her daughter; and giving me leave to go to
+England, before I entered on my employment, as the Princess is still so
+young.</p>
+
+<p>I went to San Cristova&#335; to return thanks.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th.</i>&mdash;I saw the Empress, who is pleased to allow me to sail for
+England in the packet, the day after to-morrow. I confess I am sorry to
+go before Lord Cochrane's return. I had set my heart on seeing my best
+friend in this country, after his exertions and triumph. But I have now
+put my hand to the plough, and I must not turn back.</p>
+
+<p class="i"><a name="i" id="i"></a><img src="images/019.png" alt="image" /></p>
+
+<p><i>October 21st.</i>&mdash;I embarked on board the packet for England. Mrs. May
+walked to the shore with me. Sir Murray Maxwell lent me his boats to
+bring myself and goods on board. I had previously taken leave of every
+body I knew, English and foreign.</p>
+
+<p>After I embarked, Mr. Anderson brought me the latest newspapers. The
+following are the principal ones published in Rio:&mdash;The <span class="smcap">Diario da
+Assemblea</span>, which contains nothing but the proceedings of the Assembly;
+it appears as fast as the short-hand writers can publish it. The
+<span class="smcap">Government Gazette</span>, which has all official articles, appointments, naval
+intelligence, and sometimes a few advertisements. The <span class="smcap">Diario Do Rio</span>,
+which has nothing but advertisements, and ship news, and prices current;
+it used to print a meteorological table. The <span class="smcap">Correiro</span>, a democratic
+journal, which the editor wrote from prison, only occasionally for some
+time, but lately it has been a daily paper. The <span class="smcap">Sentinela Da Liberdad E
+A Beira Do Mar Da Praya Grande</span> is edited by a Genoese, assisted by one
+of the deputies, and is said to be pure <i>carbonarism</i>. The <span class="smcap">Sylpho</span>, also
+an occasional paper, moderately ministerial, and engaged in a war of
+words with several others. The <span class="smcap">Atalaia</span>, an advocate for limited
+monarchy, whose editor is a deputy of considerable reputation, is
+another occasional paper; as is also the <span class="smcap">Tamoyo</span>, entirely devoted to the
+Andradas: it is, in my opinion, the best-written of all. The <span class="smcap">Sentinela
+Da Pa&#335;n d'Asucar</span> is on the same side; its editor formerly published the
+<i>Regulador</i>, but this has ceased to appear since the change of ministry.
+The <i>Espelho</i> was a government paper; but the writer has discontinued
+it, having become a member of the Assembly. The <i>Malaguetta</i> was a paper
+whose first number attracted a great deal of attention; it fell off
+afterwards, and ceased on the declaration of the independence of Brazil.
+It was remarkable for its hostility to the Andradas. Indeed the war of
+words the author waged against the family was so virulent, that they
+were suspected of being the instigators of an attempt to assassinate
+him. This they indignantly denied, and satisfactorily disproved; and the
+man being almost maniacal with passion, accused any and every person of
+consequence in the state, and conceived himself, even wounded as he
+was, not safe. In vain did all persons, even the Emperor himself, visit
+him, to reassure him; his terrors continued, and he withdrew himself the
+moment he was sufficiently recovered from his wounds. He was by birth a
+Portuguese, and his strong passions had probably rendered him an object
+of hatred or jealousy to some inferior person, the consequences of which
+his vanity made him attribute to a higher source.&mdash;I believe there are
+some other occasional papers, but I have not seen them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oct. 25th</i>.&mdash;Happily for me there are no passengers in the packet, and
+still more happily, the captain's wife and daughter are on board; so
+that I feel as if lodging in a quiet English family, all is so decent,
+orderly, and, above all, clean. I am under no restraint, but walk, read,
+write, and draw, as if at home: every body, even to the monkey on board,
+looks kindly at me; and I receive all manner of friendly attention
+consistent with perfect liberty.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nov. 1st</i>.&mdash;"The longest way about is often the nearest, way home,"
+says the proverb; and, on that principle, ships bound for England from
+Brazil at this time of the year stand far to the eastward. We are still
+in the latitude of Rio de Janeiro, though in long. 29&deg; W., and shall
+probably stand still nearer to the coast of Africa, before we shall be
+able to look to the northward. To-day the thermometer is at 75&deg;, the
+temperature of the sea 72&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th</i>.&mdash;Lat. 14&deg; 19' S., long. 24&deg; W., thermometer 74&deg;, sea 74&frac12;&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th</i>.&mdash;Lat. 5&deg; N., long. 25&deg; W. For several days the thermometer at
+80&deg;; the temperature of the sea at noon 82&deg;. We spoke the Pambinha, 60
+days from Maranham. She says Lord Cochrane had gone himself to Para,
+whence he meant to proceed directly for Rio; so that he would probably
+be there by this time, as the Pedro Primeiro sails well. I had no
+opportunity of learning more, as the vessel passed hastily.</p>
+
+<p>We have, generally speaking, had hot winds from Africa, and there is a
+sultry feel in the air which the state of the thermometer hardly
+accounts for. I perceive that the sails are all tinged with a reddish
+colour; and wherever a rope has chafed upon them, they appear almost as
+if iron-moulded. This the captain and officers attribute to the wind
+from Africa. They were certainly perfectly white long after we left Rio;
+they have not been either furled or unbent. What may be the nature of
+the dust or sand that thus on the wings of the wind crosses so many
+miles of ocean, and stains the canvass? Can it be this minute dust
+affecting the lungs which makes us breathe as if in the sultry hours
+preceding a thunder-storm?</p>
+
+<p><i>Dec. 3d</i>.&mdash;We came in sight of St. Mary's, the eastern island of the
+Azores. I much wished to have touched at some of these isles; but this
+is not a good season for doing so, and the winds we have had have been
+unfavourable for the purpose. This afternoon, though near enough to have
+seen at least the face of the land, the weather was thick and rainy, so
+that we saw nothing.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th</i>.&mdash;After passing the Azores, a long succession of gales from the
+north-east kept us off the land. These were succeeded by three fine
+days; and the sea, which had been heavy, became smooth. Early the day
+before yesterday, however, it began to blow very hard from the
+northwest; and yesterday morning it changed to a gale from the south and
+south-west, and we lay-to under storm stay-sails, in a tremendous sea.
+About one o'clock the captain called to me, and desired me to come on
+deck and see what could not last ten minutes, and I might never see
+again. I ran up, as did Mrs. and Miss K&mdash;&mdash;. A sudden shift of wind had
+taken place: we saw it before it came up, driving the sea along
+furiously before it; and the meeting of the two winds broke the sea as
+high as any ship's mast-head in a long line, like the breakers on a reef
+of rocks. It was the most beautiful yet fearful sight I ever beheld; and
+the sea was surging over our little vessel so as to threaten to fill
+her: but the hatches were battoned down; we were lying-to on a right
+tack, and a hawser had been passed round the bits in order to sustain
+the foremast, in case we lost our bowsprit, as we expected to do every
+instant. But in twenty minutes the gale moderated, and we bore up for
+Falmouth, which we reached this morning, having passed the cabin deck
+of a ship that doubtless had foundered in the storm of yesterday.&mdash;Once
+more I am in England; and, to use the words of a venerable though
+apocryphal writer, "Here will I make an end. And if I have done well,
+and as is fitting the story, it is that which I desired; but if
+slenderly and meanly, it is that which I could attain unto."<a name="FNanchor_130_130" id="FNanchor_130_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a></p>
+
+<p class="r">M.G.</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h2>
+
+
+<p>It will appear from the following <span class="smcap">Tables</span> of the Imports and Exports of
+the Province of Maranham, from 1812 to 1821, of how much importance the
+acquisition of that Province is to the Empire of Brazil. Some other
+Tables are added, which may serve to give a clearer idea of the state of
+the country. The amount of the duties on the importation of Slaves, paid
+by Maranham to the treasury at Rio de Janeiro during those ten years,
+was 30,239 milrees.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing is wanting to the prosperity of that fine Province but a steady
+government, and a regular administration of justice. Without these two
+things, it will be in vain to expect either prosperity or tranquillity.
+The people are multiplying too fast to be managed by the former clumsy
+administration; and their intercourse with the rest of the world has
+taught them to wish for something better.</p>
+
+<p>Although there are veins of metal in Maranham, they have never been
+worked; but some saltpetre-works have been established there. There are
+mineral and medicinal waters in some districts; but I believe they have
+not been analyzed: in short, little attention has hitherto been paid to
+any thing but the woods, and the growth of coffee, cotton, and sugar; in
+all of which Maranham is abundantly rich.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table summary="imports" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" style="font-size: 50%;">
+<tr>
+<td align="center" colspan="13" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM,<br />FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.</b></span>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">COUNTRIES WHENCE IMPORTED.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1812</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1813</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1814</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1815</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1816</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1817</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1818</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1819</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1820</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Mean of second</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Mean of first five</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1821</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Brazil</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">244,506,690</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">284,211,812</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">416,508,747</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">284,418,270</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">271,326,160</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">635,642,720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">687,505,720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">616,297,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">271,501,280</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">300,194,336</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">496,454,680</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">293,618,720</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese ports in Africa</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">146,817,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">181,610,811</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">221,219,843</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">371,238,250</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">408,590,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">988,100,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">759,320,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">934,069,500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">326,230,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">265,895,180</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">685,061,940</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">193,583,790</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Lisbon</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">167,431,350</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">256,407,277</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">417,018,290</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">458,595,340</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">752,051,810</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">743,334,230</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">569,961,450</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">527,062,435</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">474,282,020</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">410,380,813</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">613,338,389</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">331,483,280</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Oporte</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">69,103,210</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">74,842,710</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">70,429,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">98,399,750</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">173,794,080</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">255,289,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">149,862,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">144,499,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">149,927,240</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">97,313,930</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">175,674,752</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">112,652,710</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">England</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">581,682,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">654,891,057</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">696,425,620</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">465,997,240</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">550,217,190</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">878,979,730</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">908,004,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">562,534,950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">435,639,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">589,842,761</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">667,075,350</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">442,757,290</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Gibraltar</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,848,800</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,246,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,491,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">United States</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">49,729,600</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,250,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">32,906,840</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">77,940,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">108,261,640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">92,154,390</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">66,430,800</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">75,538,774</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">116,099,750</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Western Isles</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,964,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20,076,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,947,260</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,374,460</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,325,600</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">France</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">60,662,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">55,459,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">102,164,290</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">178,041,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">75,136,180</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">132,282,730</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">108,616,744</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">40,091,590</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Holland</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,625,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,320,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,091,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Spain</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,169,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Annual amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,273,119,340</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,454,927,667</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,824,848,800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,751,563,150</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,244,245,080</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,681,451,130</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,411,828,970</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,983,022,195</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,885,250,690</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,709,760,809</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,841,179,613</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,532,612,730</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Silk Goods Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,694,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,836,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,880,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11,622,780</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,217,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">27,706,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11,797,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,059,565</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,392,360</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,250,420</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,634,625</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,601,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,447,500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">15,647,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,720,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,863,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,375,120</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,161,620</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,619,060</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,838,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,056,060</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,571,520</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Linen Goods Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">26,832,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,170,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">19,476,800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">29,872,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">50,266,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">57,456,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">49,855,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">23,041,480</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">28,261,380</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">29,723,480</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">41,776,216</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">69,031,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">125,357,220</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">172,292,860</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">74,989,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">162,170,280</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">307,923,950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">175,888,560</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">111,670,680</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">83,702,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">120,768,112</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">168,261,274</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Cotton Goods Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,085,640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,375,730</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,859,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21,273,380</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">54,732,250</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">89,924,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">44,665,120</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">49,258,310</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,272,580</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20,065,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">54,370,532</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">349,295,440</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">324,792,020</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">316,213,050</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">377,886,820</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">444,593,640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">506,977,320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">579,338,910</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">359,983,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">212,115,710</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">362,556,194</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">420,601,896</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Woolen Cloths Portuguese</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">198,720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">272,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">774,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,746,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">672,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">490,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">240,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">784,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,487,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">39,377,950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">43,725,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,259,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">50,546,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">103,453,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">96,565,780</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">55,042,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">46,099,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">36,879,470</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">70,341,748</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Fine Hats Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">946</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,292</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,402</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,419</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,663</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,966</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,579</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,263</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,292</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,578</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,228</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,140</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,795</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,193</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,422</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,826</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21,868</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,196</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,219</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,755</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,186</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Coarse Hats Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11,689</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,623</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,225</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,424</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">16,380</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">27,552</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,180</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,324</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,876</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,668</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,662</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,774</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,735</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,976</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,836</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,555</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,686</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">25,224</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,961</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,122</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,775</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,509</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Clothes and Shoes Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,465,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,817,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,054,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,346,880</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,389,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,254,440</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,347,040</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,002,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,312,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,614,756</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,261,180</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,232,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">500,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,200,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,729,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,080,800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,886,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,934,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,305,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,477,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,348,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,536,700</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Movables Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,494,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,360,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,700,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,600,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,600,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,220,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">24,240,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">23,590,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,020,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,150,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,534,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,244,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,734,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,120,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,400,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,000,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,800,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,400,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,600,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,800,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,298,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,920,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese brandy Pipes</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">45</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">48</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">139</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">104</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">220</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">288</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">265</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">303</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">221</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">111</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">259</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">657</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do. and Gin, foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">46</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">38</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">76</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">109</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">132</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">269</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">27</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">124</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese Wines</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">745</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">645</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,427</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">761</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,047</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">694</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,879</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,226</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,179</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,921</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,620</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">247</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">81</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">55</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">382</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">442</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">54</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">204</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">77</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">227</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">260</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Wheaten Flour, arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,228</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">26,524</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,538</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">25,872</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21,838</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">40,080</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">53,082</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">52,689</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">45,687</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">42,675</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">82,221</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Salt Fish, quintals</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">401</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">252</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">296</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">818</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">938</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,237</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,786</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,799</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,669</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">541</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,485</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Butter, arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,785</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,628</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,220</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,198</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,625</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,624</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,453</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,187</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,751</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,891</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,328</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Cheese, arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,179</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">642</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,243</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,750</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,229</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,398</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,621</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,717</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,541</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,427</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">99</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Balance in favour of Maranham</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">190,867,692</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">325,175,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,090,305,135</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">257,858,230</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">352,145,615</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,379,412,568</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do. against</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">203,167,456</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">30,586,797</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">132,588,568</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">470,596,983</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Proceeds of the Customs</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">74,648,957</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">83,963,025</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">83,429,147</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">81,317,345</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">112,633,410</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">150,145,175</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">247,213,751</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">219,786,377</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">158,517,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">87,198,376</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">167,659,282</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">115,686,300</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese Ships arrived</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">52</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">64</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">70</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">69</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">89</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">79</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">61</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">67</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">77</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">48</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">34</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">29</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">43</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">58</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">63</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">57</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">35</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">71</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">56</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Total Ships</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">86</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">93</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">82</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">112</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">138</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">152</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">179</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">137</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">141</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">102</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">149</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">104</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">New Slaves from Africa</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">992</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,221</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,592</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,692</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,615</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,797</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,377</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,784</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,381</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,822</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,790</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,718</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do. from Brazil</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">680</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">508</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">394</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">684</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">762</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,325</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,259</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,269</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">483</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">713</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,619</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Total&nbsp;Slaves&nbsp;imported&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;Year</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,672</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,729</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,986</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">3,376</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">3,377</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">8,122</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">6,636</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">6,053</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">2,864</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">2,535</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">5,409</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,718</td></tr>
+</table><p class="c" style="font-size:85%;">Total Number of Slaves imported, from 1812 to 1821,&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;45,477.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table summary="export1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" style="font-size: 50%;">
+<tr><td colspan="11" align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black; border-bottom:1px solid black; border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black;"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.</b></span><br />(Continued below)</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="9" align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black; border-left:1px solid black; border-right:1px solid black;">COTTON</td><td colspan="2" align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black; border-right:1px solid black;">RICE</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">YEAR</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center"> LISBON</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">OPORTO </td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">ENGLAND</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">FRANCE</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">UNITED STATES</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">Different Ports.</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">High and Low Price.</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">TOTAL</td><td align="center" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">LISBON</td><td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">OPORTO</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1812</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,305 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 562 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 36,523</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 150 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 30 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">2,700<br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 40,570</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 47,780 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 17,150</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 17,591 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,997 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 196,154</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 827 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 135 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,400 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 217,754</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 253,890 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 90,080</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 56,087,050 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 9,298,293 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 598,742,727</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,317,787 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 519,925 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 666,965,782</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 257,719,470 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 94,777,550</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1813</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 8,938 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,127 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 50,108</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">3,000<br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 60,173</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 39,728 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 21,211</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 48,003 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 5,960 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 272,730</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 4,600 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 326,693</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 206,787 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 112,453</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 188,275,184 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 23,515,043 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,058,815,456</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,245,605,683</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 206,448,300 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;">116,376,750</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1814</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 12,144 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,204 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 31,236</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,087</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">4,100 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 46,671</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 45,615 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 24,444</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 65,045 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 6,351 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,459</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 10,527</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 5,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 248,385</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 242,417 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 125,747</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 401,063,336 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 36,790,539 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 913,032,959</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 63,692,999</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,414,579,833</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 219,802,820 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;">111,238,700</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1815</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 18,276 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,672 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 30,804</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 5 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">4,400 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 50,757</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 51,161 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 20,068</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 100,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 8,977 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 168,877</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 25 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 7,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 277,879</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 272,607 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 104,738</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 577,330,200 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 50,109,500 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,077,256,700</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 160,000 </td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,704,856,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 229,406,200 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 84,260,500</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1816</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 19,040 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,082 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 38,835</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,570</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">4,500 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 63,527</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 57,585 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 24,550</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 105,448 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 10,822 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 214,538</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 19,413</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 8,500 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 350,257</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 293,787 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 123,830</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 892,691,100 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 93,221,455 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,857,112,006</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,226,425</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,003,250,986</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 248,658,750 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 98,699,085</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1817</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 25,830 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,788 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 38,369</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,145</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">7,000 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 71,182</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 31,804 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 19,658</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 144,904 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 20,925 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 218,343</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 17,557</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black">10,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 401,729</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 168,565 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 103,668</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,106,601,700 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 157,833,900 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,703,908,950</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 132,448,300</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">3,100,792,850</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 194,752,275 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;">130,820,437</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1818</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 16,294 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,251 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 49,083</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 4,899</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 33 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 170</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">7,000 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 73,730</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 48,252 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 25,037</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 88,488 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 18,595 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 267,164</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 27,488</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 205 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 853</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 9,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 402,793</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 224,263 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 133,167</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 680,206,400 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 145,041,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">2,083,879,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 233,313,800</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,599,000 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 6,658,400</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,150,692,800</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 260,115,600 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;">158,600,400</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1819</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 16,625 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,629 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 40,291</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 5,910</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 8</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">7,500 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 65,463</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 41,993 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 22,937</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 91,074 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 14,212 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 222,623</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 31,326</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 45</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 8,600 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 359,280</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 220,562 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 116,184</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 517,821,500 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 81,745,500</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,333,142,384</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 203,052,350</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 238,833</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,136,000,537</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 201,039,450 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;">104,074,950</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1820</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 12,799 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,311</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 48,279</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,915</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 315</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">4,900 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66,619</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 43,034 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 21,205</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 67,730 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 12,493</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 268,736</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 16,502</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,732</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 5,500 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 367,193</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 214,842 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 106,764</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 357,766,700 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66,169,900</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,406,080,282</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 36,508,600</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 9,006,400</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,925,531,882</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 159,720,609 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 79,815,814</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">1821</td><td colspan="10" style="border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">No. </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 10,930 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 873</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 26,364</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,655</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">3,900 <br />to</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 41,822</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 42,289 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 13,391</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;">Arrobas</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 58,836 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 4,592</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 143,771</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 18,899</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 4,850 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 226,118</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 212,824 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 68,969</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Amount </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"> 253,675,950 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"> 18,825,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"> 600,658,671</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"> 85,097,600</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"> 958,257,221</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"> 161,116,775 </td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;"> 53,557,950</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<table summary="export2" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" style="font-size: 50%;">
+<tr><td colspan="19" align="center" style="font-size: 150%;"><b>GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.</b><br />(continued)</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="center" colspan="3" style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">RICE.</td>
+<td align="center" colspan="4" style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">TANNED HIDES</td>
+<td align="center" colspan="4" style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">HIDES<br />Dry and Green.</td>
+<td align="center" colspan="3" style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">SKINS</td>
+<td align="center" colspan="3" style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">GUM.<br /><i>Alqueires</i></td>
+<td align="center" style="border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">SUNDRIES.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">YEAR</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Different<br />Ports</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">High and Low Prices</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Total</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lisbon</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oporto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Different<br />Ports</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Medium Price</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lisbon</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oporto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Divers ports</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Medium Price</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lisbon</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oporto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Medium Price</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lisbon</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oporto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Medium Price</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">Divers&nbsp;Ports</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1812</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 2,099</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 600<br />to </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 67,029</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 1593 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 480</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 570 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 2100 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 5229</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 243</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 6811 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 770</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 3263</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 36</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 750</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 1903</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 834</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 2050</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 10,676</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,300 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 354,646</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">5,550,300</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">9,457,140</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">2,474,250</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">5,610,850</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">11,811,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">354,308,220</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">25,581,550</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1813</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 5,275</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 650<br />to </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 66,214</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 6671 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2100 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 7353</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1114</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 248 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 750</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4769</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 5072</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 730</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1752</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 503</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 28,165</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,200 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 854,646</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">14,639,100</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">6,536,250</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">7,380,750</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">6,916,500</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">28,145,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">350,970,050</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">12,667,025</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1814</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 892</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 800<br />to </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 70,957</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 7380 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 758</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 6785</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1071</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2277 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 7693</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3554</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1891</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 368</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 4,088</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 372,252</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">16,276,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">9,919,700</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">10,122,300</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">5,428,600</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 3,536,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">334,577,720</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">5,585,250</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1815</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 50</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 800<br />to </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 71,279</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 8649 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1785</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2500 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 15288</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2419</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1282 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 8235</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 5102</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1743</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 270</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 377,605</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">26,085,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">22,786,800</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">12,670,150</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">3,144,605</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 249,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">313,916,300</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">8,190,000</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1816</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 700<br />to </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 82,135</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 7085 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1142</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2500 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 22133</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3867</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 235 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 17268</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 8690</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1547</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 104</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 417,617</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">20,567,500</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">31,482,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">24,660,100</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">2,971,800</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">347,317,835</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">4,400,000</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1817</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4,921</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1,000<br />to</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 56,383</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 7456 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1406</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2500 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1595</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4287</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 496 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 31449</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 7397</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2577</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 684</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 800 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 25,134</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,300 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 297,417</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">22,155,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">24,889,200</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">36,903,700</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">5,869,800</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">24,524,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">350,096,712</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">8,155,300</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1818</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 677</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1,150<br />to</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 68,966</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 8342 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 50</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2700 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4531</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1177</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 5669 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1250</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 32460</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 6395</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1994</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 202</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1800 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 3,663</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,400 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 360,093</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">24,602,400</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">14,221,250</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">36,912,250</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">3,952,800</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 4,362,500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">432,078,500</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">8,651,500</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1819</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 700<br />to</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 64,927</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 200 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1977</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3411</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 150</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 55</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 27895 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4385</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 875</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2883</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1950 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,300 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 336,746</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">16,764,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">26,695,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">19,007,625</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">6,596,850</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">505,114,400</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">2,246,800</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1820</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 497</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 700<br />to</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 64,736</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 9813 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1394</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 140</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2800 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3620</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 687</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 13795 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2241</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 3138</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1771</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 417</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 2,575</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 900 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 324,121</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">31,771,600</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">27,453,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">5,905,930</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">4,376,000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,650,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">241,184,423</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">1,173,500</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1821</td>
+<td colspan="18" style="border-top: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;">No.</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 590</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 600<br />to</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 56,270</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 9615 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 678</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 144</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2800 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 4226</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 850</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 22306 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 18414</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 850</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 1000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2845</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 957</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;"> 2000 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 1,428</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 640 </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;"> 284,721</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">28,921,600</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="4" style="border-left:1px solid black;">41,073,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">49,261,000</td>
+<td align="right" colspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;">6,404,000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td> &nbsp; &nbsp;</td><td> &nbsp; &nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 1,071,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> &nbsp; </td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">216,765,975</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" colspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;">33,971,279</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table summary="recap" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1" style="font-size: 50%;">
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="13"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.</b></span>
+</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">DESTINATION.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1812.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1813.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1814.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1815.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1816.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1817.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1818.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1819</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">1820</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> Mean of First Five Years</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">Mean of Second Five Years</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 1821.</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lisbon</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 329,129,250</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 431,910,360</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 657,262,706</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 850,902,450</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,207,011,150</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,377,936,025</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,012,630,550</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 730,509,375</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 556,768,709</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 695,249,183</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 976,971,161</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 483,451,725</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oporto</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 109,206,658</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 147,234,848</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 154,551,839</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 146,581,700</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 208,018,640</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 309,450,087</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 316,367,700</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 196,421,700</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 155,742,814</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 153,138,735</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 237,200,138</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 88,312,150</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">England</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 601,688,917</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,060,051,156</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 917,043,259</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,078,845,100</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,852,712,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,728,432,950</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,084,502,450</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,333,142,354</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,406,996,782</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,102,068,086</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,681,157,507</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 602,368,671</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">France</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 63,971,999</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,908,425</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 132,448,300</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 242,214,100</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 203,392,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 86,879,600</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,368,185</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 85,130,200</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">United States</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 10,304,419</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 7,319,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 48,720,959</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 20,168,000</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 43,332,000</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Different Ports</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 19,522,655</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 6,569,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,432,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 409,690</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 595,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 6,653,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 238,833</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 9,126,400</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 1,020,250</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Total of the Exports</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,069,951,894</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,645,795,359</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,794,262,003</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">2,076,738,850</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">3,434,650,215</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,548,862,562</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,669,687,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,512,425,212</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,237,396,305</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,004,279,664</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,080,604,298</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 2,304,685,996</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Export&nbsp;Duties&nbsp;on&nbsp;Cotton</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 130,654,878</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 196,016,626</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 148,634,103</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,727,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 210,154,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 241,037,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 241,675,800</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 215,568,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 220,315,800</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 170,437,441</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 225,750,240</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 153,319,999</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">National Ship sailed</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 52</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 62</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 77</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 86</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 77</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 78</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 63</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 64</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 76</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 49</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Foreign Ships sailed</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 35</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 27</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 14</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 39</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 54</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 65</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 78</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 70</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 34</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 65</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Total Ships sailed</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 87</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 89</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 80</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 105</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 131</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 151</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 155</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 144</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 133</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 98</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 143</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 114</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table summary="stateind" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" style="font-size: 80%;">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="8" align="center"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>STATE OF INDUSTRY.</b></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">All the Provinces.</td>
+<td style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Where.</td>
+<td style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Quantity</td>
+<td style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Daily Maximum</td>
+<td style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Daily Minimum</td>
+<td style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">Total</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" rowspan="3" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Commerce<br />and<br />Industry.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">National Houses</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">City of Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">54</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" rowspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" rowspan="3">&nbsp; </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" rowspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto foreign</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Men living by their own  industry</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">All the provinces</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">29&nbsp;580</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" rowspan="11" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Machines,<br />Potteries,<br />Furnaces,<br />and<br />Forges.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Steam engine for shelling rice.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">City&nbsp;of&nbsp;Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">1</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" rowspan="11">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" rowspan="11">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" rowspan="11">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Machines, with mules,<br />for shelling rice</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">22</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto for sugar</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Interior</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto for bruising cane for distilling</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">115</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Hand machines for cleansing cotton</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">521</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Manufactory of Looms<br />for weaving cotton</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Isle&nbsp;of&nbsp;Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">In the city</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">230</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Potteries</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">27</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lime kilns</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Isle of Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">26</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Saw pits</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">All the provinces</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">18</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Forges</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">132</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" rowspan="30" align="center">
+M<br />
+e<br />
+c<br />
+h<br />
+a<br />
+n<br />
+i<br />
+c<br />
+s<br /><br />
+a<br />
+n<br />
+d<br /><br />
+A<br />
+r<br />
+t<br />
+i<br />
+s<br />
+t<br />
+s.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Taylors.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">61</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">157</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">96</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Braziers.   </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">4</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;"> 320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">1</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Carpenters. </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">86</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">269</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">183</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Woodcutters.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">96</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">138</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">42</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Ship Carpenters.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">118</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">38</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Smiths</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">5</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;  </td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Blacksmiths.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">City of Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">37</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">60</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">23</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Coopers.    </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">2</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">48</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">1</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Joiners.    </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">All the provinces</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">30</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">57</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">27</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Goldsmiths. </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">49</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">60</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">11</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Masons and Stone-cutters </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">City of Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">404</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">1,012</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">608</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Painters.   </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">All the provinces</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">10</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">15</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">5</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Carpenters. </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">City of Maranha&oacute;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">92</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">235</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">143</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Sadlers.    </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">4</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">1</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Tanners.    </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">4</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">480</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">10</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">6</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ditto</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Workwomen and Female Servants.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Free</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-left:1px solid black;">1,800 </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;">Ditto</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">1&nbsp;800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">240</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;">160</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" rowspan="2" valign="middle" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Servants and Factors.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Whites</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">All the provinces</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">560</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Variable</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Variable</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">760 </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Free blacks</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px black solid;border-bottom:1px solid black;">All the provinces</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">200</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Variable</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Variable</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<table summary="produce" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="font-size: 85%;">
+<tr>
+<td align="center" colspan="5"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>STATEMENT OF PRODUCE.</b></span></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">In the whole province.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Produce.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Consumption</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black; border-top:1px solid black;">Medium Value.</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">New Cotton</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-top:1px solid black;">arrobas</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">225518</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">11600</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">3900</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Spirits</td>
+<td align="right">pipes</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">385</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">405</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">60000</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Rice</td>
+<td align="right">alqueires </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">570079</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">380945</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">570</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Sugar</td>
+<td align="right">arrobas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">417</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">20000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">3200</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oil</td>
+<td align="right">canadas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">68386</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">30018</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">600</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Potatoes</td>
+<td align="right">arrobas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">2420</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">8600</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">1200</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Currie</td>
+<td align="right">ditas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">83</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">32</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">2500</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Coffee</td>
+<td align="right">ditas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">1020</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">880</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">3200</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Dry Beef</td>
+<td align="right">ditas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">48924</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">64200</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">2000</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Wax</td>
+<td align="right">ditas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">37</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">500</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">3200</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Hides</td>
+<td align="right">numero </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">28876</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">2578</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">1800</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Beans</td>
+<td align="right">alqueires </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">3128</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">3500</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">1400</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Fruits</td>
+<td align="right">number </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">36</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">todas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">variable</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ginger</td>
+<td align="right">arrobas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">28</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">6</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">2400</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Mandioc</td>
+<td align="right">alqueires </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">207899</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">198810</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">900</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Treacle</td>
+<td align="right">barrels </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">6988</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">2381</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">170</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Maize</td>
+<td align="right">alqueires </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">77172</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">todo </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">700</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Salt Fish</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;">arrobas </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" align="right">15254</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" align="right">todo </td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">1000</td></tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table summary="agriculture" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="font-size: 85%;">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="6" align="center"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>STATEMENT OF AGRICULTURE.</b></span></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">In the whole Province</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Employed</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Existing.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Mean Worth.</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" >Daily.</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">P<br />
+e<br />r<br />s<br />o<br />n<br />s<br /></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Freemen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">19960</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">35618</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;">de 240 a 326</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Slaves</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">69534</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">84434</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">200000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">de 160 a 240</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="14" style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" align="center" valign="middle">
+C<br />a<br />t<br />t<br />l<br />e<br /></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;">Oxen</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">8811</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">130640</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;" align="right">10000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-top:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Asses</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">28</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">20000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Goats</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">400</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">1200</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Sheep</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">1800</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">2000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Horses</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">600</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">12240</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">20000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Mares</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">9400</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">10000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Mules</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">1100</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">3200</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">45000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ewes</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">890</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">1200</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cows</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">20400</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="right">12000</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;" align="center">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">Total Amount of Agriculture</td>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">1,897,271,846</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">Capital employed</td>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">27,813,600,000</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">Number of Farms</td>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-right:1px solid black;" align="right">4,856</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" style="border-bottom:1px solid black;">Number of Proprietors</td>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-right:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;" align="right">2,683</td></tr>
+</table>
+<p class="c" style="font-size: 85%;"><i>Note</i>.&mdash;The worth is calculated in rees, the 1,000, or milree, being
+worth 5s. 2d. sterling.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>THE END</h3>
+
+<p class="c">LONDON:</p>
+
+<p class="c">Printed by A. &amp; R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>ERRATA. (already corrected)</p>
+
+<p>Page 30. line 20. for <i>hopes</i> read <i>losses</i>.</p>
+
+<p>41. 21. for <i>1817</i> read <i>1807</i>.</p>
+
+<p>45. in the list of ships that remained at Lisbon, last line but one, for
+<i>Ferlao</i> read <i>Tr&iacute;ta&otilde;</i>.</p>
+
+<p>47. line 12. for <i>Ponta</i> read <i>Ponte</i>.</p>
+
+<p>57. 4. for <i>ambassader</i> read <i>ambassador</i>.</p>
+
+<p>59. 17. for <i>sodier</i> read <i>soldier</i>.</p>
+
+<p>61. 4. for <i>government</i> read <i>governments</i>.</p>
+
+<p>64. in the first line of note &#8224; for <i>not</i> read <i>most</i>.</p>
+
+<p>65. line 13. for <i>Custova&otilde;</i> read <i>Cristova&otilde;</i>.</p>
+
+<p>69. 6. for <i>Cauler</i> read <i>Caula</i>.</p>
+
+<p>79. 21. for <i>fuchsia</i> read <i>fuschia</i>.</p>
+
+<p>126. 16. for <i>impotation</i> read <i>importation</i>.</p>
+
+<p>130. 23. for <i>nove</i> read <i>nova</i>.</p>
+
+<p>141. 4. from bottom, for <i>Pinja</i> read <i>Piraja</i>.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The hall with the pictures of the viceroys was filled:
+there would be no room in it for Lacerna.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This prophecy was recorded by Garcela&ccedil;o de la Vega; and it
+is said, that the copies of his Incas were bought up, and an edition
+printed, omitting the prophecy.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This cannot be Bahia; for they say, that after coasting 260
+leagues they were in 18&deg;S.; now Bahia is in 12&deg; 40', or nearly; the
+difference being 120 leagues; it must therefore be a port to the
+northward.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Pearl islands, in the bay of Panama. The sand of the beach
+of those islands is iron, and is as easily attracted by the loadstone as
+steel filings.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> I suppose that off St. Antonio da Barre.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Pedro Fernandez Sardinha, the first bishop of Brazil.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> I hope the following tale is not true, though my authority
+is good. In this very captaincy, within these twenty years, an Indian
+tribe had been so troublesome, that the Capitam M&ocirc;r resolved to get rid
+of it. It was attacked, but defended itself so bravely, that the
+Portuguese resolved to desist from open warfare; but with unnatural
+ingenuity exposed ribands and toys infected with smallpox matter in the
+places where the poor savages were likely to find them: the plan
+succeeded. The Indians were so thinned, that they were easily overcome!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> There is a note in the first volume of Southey's Brazil
+concerning the name of Marino given to Olinda by Hans Staade. The other
+Brazilians call the Pernambucans of Recife Marineros still. Is this from
+the town or their nautical habits? or from the name of the Indian
+village Marim which existed in the neighbourhood?</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> In the Historia da Provincia Sancta Cruz, by Pero de
+Magalhaens de Gandano, 1576, there is an account sufficiently tallying
+with that which Southey has compiled from Hans Staade and De Lery. But
+it is far from being so disgusting. There is a copper-plate representing
+the dragging the prisoner with cords, and felling him with a club. The
+author gives a short account of the then known plants and animals of
+Brazil, and concludes with the hope that the mines believed to exist may
+speedily be found.&mdash;See the collection of tracts by Barbosa Maehado.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Anchieta was not only a man of extraordinary firmness of
+mind and real piety, but a politician of no common cast, and his civil
+services to the Portuguese government were equal to those of the
+greatest captains, while his labours as a missionary and teacher were
+beyond those of any individual of whom I have ever read. His merits as a
+christian apostle and a man of literature, have disarmed even Mr.
+Southey of his usual rancour against the Roman Catholic faith. That
+excellent writer's book on Brazil is spoilt by intemperate language on a
+subject on which human feeling is least patient of direct contradiction,
+so that the general circulation of it is rendered impossible, and the
+good it might otherwise do in the country for which it is written
+frustrated. Oh, that Mr. Southey would remember the quotation which he
+himself brings forward from Jeremy Taylor! "Zeal against an error is not
+always the best instrument to find out truth."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Mamaluco. These were the Creole Portuguese, who had most
+of them intermarried with the natives.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Among these was Jean de Lery.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Mr. Southey says this spot is called Villa Velha. But
+there is no place existing in the neighbourhood of that name, nor could
+I find any person at Rio de Janeiro who remembered such a place. It was,
+however, most probably on the site of the present St. Juan, or of the
+fort of Praya Vermelha, which answers exactly to the description.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> When the Historia da Provincia de Sancta Cruz, by Pero
+Magalha&#275;s de Gadano, was printed, 1575, they were still separate; but
+Southey's MS. of 1578 says they had been re-united.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> In Barbosa Machado's curious collection of pamphlets, in
+the library of Rio de Janeiro, is one by the Capt. Symam Estacio da
+Sylveira, printed in 1624. He had been at the taking of Maranham from
+the French, and his paper is evidently a decoy for colonists. He says,
+that Daniel de la Touche was induced to go thither by Itayuba of the
+<i>Iron arm</i>, a Frenchman who had been brought up among the Tupinambas. Is
+this Mr. Southey's Rifault?</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> The following is an extract from one of the letters of
+this Creole Negro: "Faltamos a obedien&ccedil;a, que nos occupava no certam de
+Bahia, por na&otilde; faltar&eacute;mos as obriga&ccedil;oens da patria; respeitando primeiro
+as leys da natureza, que as do imperio."
+</p><p>
+<i>Castrioto Lusitano</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>
+</p><p>
+Ves Agros Gararapes, entre a negra,
+Nuvem de Marte horrendo
+Qual Jupiter em flegra,
+Hollanda o vistes fulminar tremendo.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Dinez</span>.
+</p><p>
+The Portuguese reader will do well to read the whole of Diniz's fine ode
+to Vieyra, as well as that to Mem de Sa, on his conquests at Rio de
+Janeiro. This writer is one of the best of the Arcadian school.&mdash;But he
+wrote on subjects of a minor interest, while Guidi wrote to the
+"d'Arcadia fortunate Genti"&mdash;of the Eternal city, where every civilised
+being feels he has an interest.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> That under Sir H. Popham, on Sir D. Baird's expedition to
+the Cape of Good Hope, for instance, in 1805, and that of the French
+admiral, Guillaumez, in 1806.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> For the political and commercial views entertained with
+regard to the assisting Miranda, or obtaining for England a port in
+South America, see Lord Melville's evidence on the court martial on Sir
+Home Popham.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a><i>List of the Portuguese Fleet that came out of the Tagus
+on the 29th of November, 1807.</i></p>
+
+<table summary="ships1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-right:2em;">Guns.</td><td>Commanded by</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Principe Real</td><td>84,</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;Adm. Manoel da Cunha.<br />
+                                 &mdash;Capt. Manoel da Canto.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Rainha de Portugal</td><td>74,</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;Capt. Francisco Manoel Soetomayor.<br />
+                                 &mdash;<i>The Princess Dowager and younger daughters<br />
+                                 came in this ship.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Conde Henrique</td><td>74,</td><td>Capt. Jose Maria de Almeida.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Medusa</td><td>74,</td><td>Capt. Henrique de Souza Prego.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Affonso d'Abuquerque</td><td>64,</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&mdash;Capt Ignacio da Costa Quinatella.<br />
+                                 &mdash;<i>The Queen and family in this ship.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>D. Joam de Castro</td><td>64,</td><td>Capt. Don Manoel Juan Sou&ccedil;a.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Principe do Brazil</td><td>74,</td><td>Capt. Gar&ccedil;a&#335;.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Martim de Freitas</td><td>64,</td><td>Capt. Don Manoel Menezes.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">FRIGATES.</td><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Minerva</td><td>44,</td><td>Capt. Rodrigo Lobo.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Golfinho</td><td>36,</td><td>Capt. Luiz d'Acunha.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Urania</td><td>32,</td><td>Capt. Tancos, Conde de Viana.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Cherua Princesa S.S.</td><td>20,</td><td>Commanded by a lieutenant.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">BRIGS.</td><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-right:2em;">Guns.</td><td>Commanded by</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Voador</td><td>22,</td><td>Lieut. Fs. Maximilian.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Vingan&ccedil;a</td><td>20,</td><td>Capt. Nicolas Kytten.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Gaivota</td><td>22.</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">SCHOONER.</td><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Curiosa</td><td>12,</td><td><i>Hoisted French colours and deserted.</i></td></tr>
+</table>
+<p>
+Of these vessels, the <i>Martin Freitas</i> is now the <i>Pedro Primero</i>. The
+<i>Principe Real</i> is the receiving ship at Rio. The <i>Rainha de Portugal</i>
+is at Lisbon, as well as the Conde Henrique. The <i>Medusa</i> is the sheer
+hulk at Rio. The three other line-of-battle ships either broke up or
+about to be so. Of the frigates, the Minerva was taken by the French in
+India. The Golfinho is broken up, and the <i>Urania</i> was wrecked on the
+Cape de Verde Islands. The Voador is now a corvette. The Vingan&ccedil;a is
+broke up, and the Gaivoto is now the Liberal.
+</p>
+
+<table summary="ships2" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2">
+<tr><td colspan="3" align="center"><i>List of the Ships that remained at Lisbon.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td style="padding-right:2em;">Guns.</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>S. Sebastao</td><td>64,</td><td><i>Unserviceable without thorough repair.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Maria Prima</td><td>74,</td><td><i>Ordered for floating battery&mdash;not fitted.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Vasco de Gama</td><td>74,<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></td><td><i>Under repair, nearly ready.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Princesa de Beira</td><td>64,</td><td><i>Ordered for floating battery.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">FRIGATES.</td><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Fenix</td><td>48,</td><td><i>In need of thorough repair</i> (broke up at Bahia).</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Aamazona</td><td>44,</td><td><i> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do.</i> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; ( &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; at Lisbon).</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Perola</td><td>44,</td><td><i> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do.</i> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; ( &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; at Lisbon).</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Tr&iacute;ta&otilde;</td><td>40,</td><td><i>Past repair.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Veney</td><td>30,</td><td><i>Past repair.</i></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Hulk at Rio.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> These were the Visconde de Rio Seco, who managed all; the
+Marquis de Vagos, gentleman of the bed-chamber; Conde de Redondo, who
+had the charge of the royal pantries; Manoel da Cunha, admiral of the
+fleet; the Padre Jos&eacute; Eloi, who had the care of the valuables belonging
+to the patriarchal church.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> On the removal of the family of Braganza to Brazil, Sir
+Samuel Hood and General Beresford took possession of Madeira, in trust
+for Portugal, till a restoration should take place.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> The Rainha de Portugal, and the Conde Henrique with the
+Princess Dowager and the younger Princesses arrived straight at Rio, on
+the 15th of January. The Martim de Freitas and Golfinho arrived on the
+15th at Bahia for supplies, sailed for Rio on the 24th, and arrived on
+the 30th.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The Conde died in May, 1809, at the age of 35, leaving ten
+children, and an embarrassed estate.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Godoy was to have Alentejo and Algarve; Etruria, Entre
+Minho e Douro with the city of Oporto, the rest was to be sequestrated
+till a general peace, when a Braganza was to be placed at its head, on
+condition that England should restore Gibraltar, Trinidad, &amp;c. to
+Spain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> 28th January, 1808.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Sir Sydney Smith had followed the Portuguese court to Rio,
+less as commander of the British naval force in those seas, than as the
+protector of the Braganzas. Lord Strangford had resumed his character of
+ambassador.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> I have in my possession a curious drawing, found in a
+Botecudo cottage, and done by one of the Creole Brazilians, of mixed
+breed, who shows himself hidden in a cave, his white companions dead,
+and they, as well as the soldiers of the black regiment who accompanied
+them, have the flesh stripped from the bones, excepting the head, hands,
+and feet. The Botecudos are represented as carrying off this flesh in
+baskets. These savages appear quite naked, having their mouth pieces,
+and being armed with bows and arrows.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Some have imagined that a paper published at Rio, written
+by a Frenchman, and supposed to have been in the pay of the then
+ministry, desirous of keeping the king in Brazil, had great effect on
+the subsequent events; and that greater still had been produced by the
+revolution of the 10th of February, at Bahia; but the motives of action
+were the same in all Brazil; the event must have been the same at Rio,
+whether Bahia had stirred or not, though, perhaps, it might be
+accelerated by that circumstance.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> The whole municipal body.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The square in front of the theatre, from its size and
+situation, was most fit for the assembly of the people and troops on such
+an occasion.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>
+<br />
+<i>New Ministers.</i><br />
+<br />
+Vice-admiral and Commander-in-chief Quintella, secretary of state.<br />
+Joaquin Jose Monteiro Torres, minister of marine, and secretary for transmarine affairs.<br />
+Silvestre Pinhero Fereiro, secretary for foreign affairs.<br />
+Conde de Lou&ccedil;a, head of the treasury.<br />
+Bishop of Rio, president of the board of conscience.<br />
+Antonio Luiz Pereiro da Cunha, head of police.<br />
+Jos&eacute; Gaetano Gomes, grand treasurer.<br />
+Joao Fereiro da Costa Sampaio, second treasurer.<br />
+Sebastian Luiz Terioco, fiscal.<br />
+Jos&eacute; da Silva Lisboa, literary department.<br />
+Joao Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida, director of the bank.<br />
+----Barboza, police.<br />
+Conde de Aseca, head of the board of trade.<br />
+Brigadier Carlos Frederico da Cunha, commander-in-chief, &amp;c.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Rossini's Cenerentola.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> The 27th, on which day Messrs. Thornton, Grimaldi, and
+Maler, ministers from England and France, waited on His Majesty. The
+different motions or interferences of the members of the diplomatic body
+scarcely concern this period. There is no doubt but that they were busy.
+But circumstances which they could not control, though they might
+disturb, brought about the revolution of the 26th, the visible facts
+alone of which I pretend to give.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> It was of little avail at the time. But as soon as it was
+possible, his royal highness's government began payments by instalments,
+which are still going on, notwithstanding the total change of
+government. This is highly honourable.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> When he touched at Bahia on his way home, the junta of
+government there, prejudiced by letters from Rio, refused him permission
+to land; and he had the mortification of being treated as a criminal, in
+that very city where he had governed with honour, and where he had been
+beloved. On his arrival at Lisbon, he suffered a short imprisonment in
+the tower of Belem. Yet his misconduct, if it amounted to all he was
+charged with, seems to have been an error in judgment.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> <i>Provisional government of St. Paul's.</i>
+</p>
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The Archpriest Felisberto Gomes Jardin.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Rev. Joa&#335; Ferreiro da Oliviero Bueno.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Antonio Lecto Perreiro da Gama Lobo.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Daniel Pedro Muller.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Francisco Ignacio.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Manoel Rodriguez Jorda&#335;.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Andre da Sylva Gomez.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Francisco de Paulo Oliviera.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dr. Nicola&#335; Perreira de Campos Noguerros.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Antonio Maria Quertim.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Martin Francisco de Andrada.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lazaro Jos&eacute; Gon&ccedil;alez.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Miguel Jos&eacute; de Oliviero Pinto.<br /></span>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> The Chinerfe of the Guanches.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> The ice is procured from a large cavern near the cone of
+the peak; it is almost full of the finest ice all the year round.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Frezier, who crossed the line, March 5th, 1712, says,
+"When it was no longer to be doubted that we were to the southward of
+the line, the foolish ceremony practised by all nations was not omitted.
+</p><p>
+"The persons to be so served are seized by the wrists, to ropes
+stretched fore and aft on the second deck for the officers, and before
+the mast for the sailors; and after much mummery and monkey tricks, they
+are let loose, to be led after one another to the main mast, where they
+are made to swear on a sea chart that they will do by others as is done
+by them, according to the laws and statutes of navigation: then they pay
+to save being wetted, but always in vain, for the captains themselves
+are not quite spared."
+</p><p>
+Jaques le Maire, the first who sailed round Cape Horn, mentions in his
+Journal, 8th July, 1615, baptizing the sailors when he arrived at the
+<i>Barrels</i>.&mdash;Has this any thing in common with the ceremony of crossing
+the line?</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Cabral first took possession of the country which he
+called <i>that of the Holy Cross</i>, for the crown of Portugal; Amerigo
+Vespucci 1504, called it Brazil, on account of the wood.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> In 1816, under the governor, Monte Negro, the harbour was
+cleared and deepened, and particularly the bar.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> The council or junta of provisional government consisted
+of ten members, of which Luiz do Rego was the head; they were drawing up
+an address to the inhabitants of Recife, assuring them of safety and
+protection; exulting in the advantage gained in the night, and asserting
+that there were plenty of provisions within the town; and encouraging
+them in the name of the king and cortes, to defend the city against the
+insurgents, who were of course branded with the names of enemies to the
+king and country.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> Luiz do Rego was not the first governor of Pernambuco who
+had been shot at. In 1710, when Sebastian de Castro, in conformity to
+his orders from Lisbon, had erected a pillar, and declared Recife a
+town, San Antonio da Recife, the Olindrians shot him on his walk to Boa
+Vista, in four places. The Ouvidor was one of the conspirators. The
+bishop had a share in this unchristian action. The object of the people
+of Olinda and of the assassin's party was, to confine Recife to its own
+parish, extending only to the Affogados on one side, and Fort Brun on
+the other.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> A little fort which defends the entrance to Recife.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Bombex pentandrium. <i>Jaquin.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> See Introduction, p. 20.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> This was the Jesuits' college founded under the
+administration of the admirable father Nobrega, and his companion De
+Gram. Here at eighteen years' old the celebrated Viera read lectures on
+rhetoric, and composed those commentaries on some of the classics, which
+were unfortunately lost in the course of the civil wars.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> Not only has this paper been continued since, but others
+are now published in Recife.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Mr. Lain&eacute;, the very pleasing and gentlemanlike French
+consul, was present.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Since writing my Journal, I have seen the official account
+of this attack on the Villa of the Affagados. It was a well planned
+expedition; but the raw troops were easily driven out of the villa of
+which they had already possessed themselves, by throwing a bridge over a
+branch of the Capabaribe, by the veteran soldiers of Do Rego.
+</p><p>
+The same morning, i.e. that of the 1st of October, the provisional junta
+of Pernambuco had addressed that of the patriots of Goyana, offering
+peace, saying, that as their avowed object was the dismissal of L. do
+Rego, he was ready to withdraw himself; that he had twice offered the
+council of Recife to do so, and had besides sent to the Cortes to beg
+they would appoint a successor, and allow him to retire; that his motive
+for this was the desire of peace, and of procuring the tranquillity of
+the province, so disturbed by these civil broils. They tell the patriots
+also, that the Don Pedro is arrived, and assure them that the troops
+brought by the frigate shall be employed only in the defence of Recife.
+They also intimate, that they are sure of assistance from the French and
+English frigates then there, such assistance having been offered, on the
+ground of the English and French property in the place. Now I know that
+no such assistance was offered by the English frigate. It was asked; but
+a strict neutrality had been enjoined by the government, all
+interference was refused, and no more was offered than <i>personal</i>
+protection to either English, French, or Portuguese; and of course
+protection for English property being the purpose for which the frigate
+was there, was understood by all parties.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> The Capabaribe has a course of about fifty leagues, but is
+only navigable to about six miles from the sea, on account of rapids and
+falls in the upper part; it has two mouths, one at Recife, and the other
+at Os Affogados. Chor. Braz.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> I regret exceedingly that I was then so ignorant of the
+language. I have since learned that there were many causes of particular
+grievance in this province. I do not mean to speak disrespectfully of
+the popular meetings of Brazil; they had all in view the best objects,
+national independence and civil liberty under reformed laws. The first
+object has been secured to them by their constitutional emperor, the
+last is growing up under his government; time only can perfect it. Happy
+would it have been for Italy, if its popular meetings had possessed the
+mild character of those of Brazil, and still happier, had they found in
+their prince a defender and protector.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> At Rio Doce, Brito Freire and Pedro Jaques landed to
+assist Vieyra in the recovery of Pernambuco. See p. 25. of the
+Introduction.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> The easternmost land of South America. It has two little
+harbours, for small vessels, each of which is defended by a small fort,
+and has a celebrated chapel to our Lady of Nazareth.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> All the parrot tribe in Brazil is beautiful: but neither
+parrots nor parroquets talk well. However, no slave ship comes from
+Africa without a grey parrot or two; so that in the towns they are
+almost as numerous as the native birds, and much more noisy, for they
+talk incessantly.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> All the orange and lemon tribe, papaws, cashew nuts,
+melons and gourds, pomegranates, guavas, &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> The Madagascar perriwinkle is the most common, many
+parasitic plants, and almost all the papilionaceous and the bell-shaped
+creepers: the passion flowers also are common.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> The convents are, generally speaking, the places where the
+more delicate preserves are made. Those I bought were of Guava, cashew
+apple, citron, and lime. The cashew particularly good. They go by the
+general name of <i>Doce</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> The Sugar-loaf Hill, in the ridge of Priaca, about eight
+leagues N.E. of the villa of Penedo, has a lake on its western
+declivity, where enormous bones have been found; and on the north side
+there is a fearful cavern.&mdash;<i>Chor. Brazil.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> We left Pernambuco on the 14th Oct. 1821. Before Nov. 18th
+of the same year, the Cortes of Lisbon had recalled Luiz do Rego and all
+the European troops; had repented of that recal, and had countermanded
+it, and sent reinforcements. But by the time they arrived, the
+captain-general had embarked on board a French ship for Europe; and the
+junta, after provisioning the ships with the troops, forbid them to
+land, and sent them towards Rio Janeiro.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> When Frezier travelled, a cotton hammock with a canopy was
+used.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> The gamela, like the banyan, easily takes root in other
+trees, and its branches meet together in the same manner. It is the tree
+of which the canoes of Brazil are made, and serves besides for troughs
+of various kinds.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> Air-plant or Tillandsia, of which there are several sorts.
+The Tillandsia Lingulata is the largest, and agrees with Jaquin's plate;
+the others are different from those described by him, and are much more
+beautiful.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Frezier says of Bahia, "Who would believe it? there are
+shops full of those poor wretches, who are exposed there stark naked and
+bought like cattle, over whom the buyers have the same power; so that
+upon slight disgust they may kill them, almost without fear of
+punishment, or at least treat them as cruelly as they please. I know not
+how such barbarity can be reconciled to the maxims of religion, which
+makes them members of the same body with the whites, when they have been
+baptized, and raises them to the dignity of the sons of God&mdash;<i>all sons
+of the Most High</i>.
+</p><p>
+"I here make this comparison, because the Portuguese are Christians who
+make a great outward show of religion."&mdash;<i>Voyage to the South Sea</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Part of the funds for supporting this and other hospitals
+is derived from lotteries. See advertisements in the different Bahia
+newspapers.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> Joa&otilde; de Matos Aguiar, commonly called Joa&otilde; de Matinhos,
+from his diminutive size, was the founder of this Recolhimento. He
+bequeathed 800,000 crusadoes for the retired women, 400,000 for the
+patients, one to each on leaving the hospital, and 400,000, dowry to 38
+girls every year, at the period of the foundation, 1716.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> It was begun by the Conde da Ponte, and finished by the
+Conde dos Arcos after the arrival of the king in Brazil. It was opened
+May 13th, 1812.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> <i>Itapa</i> is the Indian name: the Portuguese termination,
+<i>Rica</i>, indicates the fertility of the island. On this island Francesco
+Pereira Coutinho, the first donatory, was killed by the savages. He had
+founded his city near the watering place called Villa Velha, by what is
+now the fort of Gamboa, and not far from the habitation of the
+adventurer Caramuru. The first Christian settlement formed here was in
+1561, when the Jesuits founded an Aldea, and collected and humanised
+some of the natives.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> "The custom of exposing old, useless, or sick slaves, in
+an island of the Tyber, there to starve, seems to have been pretty
+common in Rome; and whoever recovered, after being so exposed, had his
+liberty given him, by an edict of the Emperor Claudius; where it was
+likewise forbid to <i>kill any slave, merely for old age or
+sickness</i>."&mdash;"We may imagine what others would practise, when it was the
+professed maxim of the elder Cato, to sell his superannuated slaves for
+any price, rather than maintain a useless burden."&mdash;<i>Discourses of the
+Populousness of Ancient Nations</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> Colonel Salvador, though born in Portugal, has all his
+property and connections in Brazil; he served with credit in the
+peninsula. Mr. Soares, a Brazilian, had been long in England.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> The negroes of the <i>Cru</i> nation come to Sierra Leone from
+a great distance, and hire themselves out for any kind of labour, for
+six, eight, or ten months, sometimes for a year or two. They have then
+earned enough to go home and live like idle gentlemen, for at least
+twice that time, and then return to work. When their engagements on
+board men of war are fulfilled, they receive regular discharges and
+certificates.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> Mr. Pennell accordingly wrote to Mr. Perreira, stating the
+circumstance and also that the prisoner was taken. The magistrate
+assured him that he had laid his communication before the provisional
+government, and that the punishment directed by law should be inflicted,
+and the greatest sorrow was expressed by the junta for the accident.
+Colonel Madera, commanding the active military police, also assured
+Mr.&mdash;&mdash; the lieutenant of the Doris, on his honour, that the assassin
+should be brought to trial. But it was not done while we remained in
+Brazil, and it is probable not at all. The political state of Bahia
+shortly afterwards would scarcely leave leisure for such a matter.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> One of the two parishes of the lower town.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> In 1804 it contained 1088 hearths.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> See Introduction, p. 15.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> This was no longer the case at my second visit to Rio, and
+every thing eatable was much improved.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Dedicated to St. John Baptist. I am not sure whether this
+or N.S. da Cabe&ccedil;a is the mother church; the same clergyman officiates in
+both.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> The nickname of the inhabitants of Rio is Carioca, from
+this fountain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> It is 1713 feet square.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> Count Hogendorp died while I was in Chile. Napoleon had
+left him by his will five thousand pounds sterling, but the old man did
+not live to know this proof of the recollection of his old master. As he
+approached his end, the Emperor Don Pedro sent to him such assistance,
+and paid him such attention as his state required or admitted of, and
+had given orders concerning his funeral; but it was found at his death
+that he was a protestant, and one of the protestant consuls therefore
+caused him to be properly interred in the English burial-ground. On
+undressing him after death, his body was found to be tattooed like those
+of the natives of the eastern islands. I never saw the count after the
+1st of January.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> The Prince answered this on the 4th of January, by
+assuring the Paulistas that he had transmitted the letter to Lisbon, and
+that His Royal Highness hoped from the wisdom of the Cortes that they
+would take measures for the good and prosperity of Brazil.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> Referring to a speech of the Prince on determining to stay
+in Brazil.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> Composed by the Prince.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> Bacon, <i>Essay on Dissimulation and Simulation</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> I am not sure of the correctness of these numbers, but I
+believe I am nearly right.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> The heavy step of the Portuguese infantry has earned for
+them the nickname of <i>Pedechumbo</i>, or leaden foot; now applied to all
+partisans of Portugal.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> This journey was very disastrous, as it caused the death
+of the infant Prince.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> I have since learned that some very warm expressions of
+personal regard and sympathy used by an English officer (not, however,
+belonging either to the Aurora or Doris) to a Portuguese, with whom he
+had but a slight acquaintance, on occasion of his embarking for Praya
+Grande, had led the Portuguese to believe that it meant something more,
+and that, in case of need, the English would join with the Portuguese.
+This at least was whispered in the town, and very naturally accounts for
+the jealousy entertained against us.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> Very shortly after we sailed, I believe within a day or
+two, those disturbances broke out at Bahia, which lasted until the 2d of
+July, 1823.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> The simplest of these stringed instruments, and two kinds
+of marimba, have found a place in the Jesuit Bonnanis&#8217; <i>Gabinetto
+Armonica</i>, printed at Rome, 1722, and dedicated to Holy King David. The
+great marimba consists of a large wooden frame; in which a number of
+hollow canes, about nine inches long, are placed, with the mouth
+upwards; across these open ends are laid pieces of sonorous wood, which
+being struck with another yield a pleasant sound, like the wooden
+armonicas of Malacca. The whole is suspended round the neck, like the
+old man&#8217;s psaltery in the Dance of Death. Each nation of negroes has its
+own peculiar instrument, which its exiles have introduced here. A king
+of each tribe is annually elected, to whom his people are obedient,
+something in the way of the gipsy monarchy. Before 1806 the election
+took place with great ceremony and feasting, and sometimes fighting, in
+the Campo de Sta. Anna; and the king of the whole was seated during the
+day in the centre of the square under a huge state umbrella. This
+festival is now abolished.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> Frezier mentions seeing such a meteor in latitude 57&deg; 30'
+S., and longitude 69&deg; W., in 1712.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> We passed another on the 8th, which Glennie calculated to
+be 410 feet high; it was near enough for us to see the waves break on
+it. In conversing on this subject with the officers since,&mdash;for at the
+time I was indeed unable to think of it,&mdash;I find there is reason to
+think that, instead of an iceberg, we saw land on the 8th. It was seen
+in the latitude and longitude of an island visited by Drake, marked in
+the old charts.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> On the 25th of May following a solemn mass was performed
+for the souls of those who had fallen on both sides, at the expense of
+the Bahians resident at Rio, in the church of San Francesco de Paulo.
+The cenotaph raised in the church was surrounded by inscriptions, in
+Latin and Portuguese; one of the most striking is, "Eternal glory to
+those who give their blood for their country."
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">("He quha dies for his cuntre<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sal herbyrit intil bewyn be," says <i>Barbour</i>.)<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+
+<p>
+The day was one of those Brazilian rainy days, when it should seem
+another deluge was coming: but the Prince and Princess were the first at
+the ceremony.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> This gentleman was an officer under Napoleon, in the
+Spanish war. For some military irregularity, he was dismissed; but
+pardoned on condition of living in Cayenne, and procuring information
+for the French government. He left that country, however, and settled in
+Brazil; where, with the exception of a short time spent in the service
+of Bolivar, he had lived quietly and respectably till the present
+juncture.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> Of her, see more in the Journal.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> Less than twenty thousand pounds sterling a year.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> My cousin Mr. Glennie invalided, from the Doris, having
+broken a blood-vessel.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> Don Joam Sesto, 80 guns.&mdash;Constitui&ccedil;am, 56.&mdash;Corvette, 10
+de Fevreiro, 29.&mdash;Active, 22.&mdash;Calypso, 22.&mdash;Regenera&ccedil;a&#335;, 22.&mdash;A
+store-ship, 28.&mdash;Brig Audaz, 18.&mdash;Promptida&#335;, 16.&mdash;Smack Emilia,
+8.&mdash;Concei&ccedil;am, 8.
+</p><p>
+<i>Armed Merchant Vessels</i>.&mdash;San Domingo, 20 guns.&mdash;Restaura&ccedil;am, 24.&mdash;San
+Gualter, 26.&mdash;Bisarra, 18.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> The pay of seamen is but scanty. The advertisement of
+February for seamen to man the Pedro Primeiro is as follows:&mdash;To
+able-bodied seamen 8 mil. bounty; 4 mil. 800 rees to ordinary seamen.
+Monthly pay, 8 mil. to able-bodied seamen, 6mil. 500 rees to ordinary, 4
+mil. 800 rees to others, and 3 mil. to landsmen.&mdash;This very day, 13th of
+March, the able seamen's monthly pay was raised to 10 mil.; that of
+ordinaries to 8 mil.
+</p><p>
+Shortly afterwards a farther advance was made, and petty officers
+received extra pay, which they had not hitherto done. The bounty was
+also increased.
+</p><p>
+The pay in Bellard's foreign regiment, 8 mil. bounty, 80 rees per day,
+40 rees stranger money, (both together 6<i>d</i>. sterling,) 24 oz. bread, 1
+lb. meat, and clothing.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> Much was said among the English as well as Brazilians of
+His Lordship&#8217;s high terms. I have reason to think (not from his
+information) that his pay and that of the English officers is only equal
+to that of England, rank for rank.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> This man is brother to the instructor of Catalani.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> Since I returned to England, I have seen the account of
+the proceedings of Joshua Steele in Barbadoes. I need not add one word
+on this part of the subject; but I present the reader with the two
+following statements of custom-house entries at Rio for the years 1821
+and 1822.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<table summary="customhouse" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:85%;">
+<tr><td colspan="8" align="center"><span style="font-size:120%;"><b>1821.</b></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>January</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center" colspan="2"><i>April</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2"><i>October</i></td>
+<td  colspan="2" style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center"><b>ABSTRACT<br />OF<br />1821</b></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">483</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">430</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">452</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">January</td><td class="r">2914</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">337</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Quilumana</td><td class="r">280</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">375</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">February</td><td class="r">1926</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Amhuebe</td><td class="r">352</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">287</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">510</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">March</td><td class="r">3170</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">409</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">451</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1337</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">April</td><td class="r">1448</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">348</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1448</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">May</td><td class="r">1281</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Luanda</td><td class="r">549</td>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">June</td><td class="r">680</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Benuela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">396</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center" colspan="2"><i>May.</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center" colspan="2"><i>November.</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">August</td><td class="r">2578</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2914</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">342</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Ambuiz</td><td class="r">220</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">September</td><td class="r">685</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">361</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td class="r">390</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">October</td><td class="r">1337</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="c"><i>February</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">231</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">579</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">November</td><td class="r">2567</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">193</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Quilumana</td><td class="r">225</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">544</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">December</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2634</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">342</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Muzambique</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">122</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">388</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">21,199</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">514</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;">1281</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Quilumana</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">446</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">277</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2567</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">600</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center"><i>June</i></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1926</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">680</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="c l" colspan="2"><i>December</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" align="center"><i>March</i></td>
+<td colspan="2" style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center"><i>August</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">516</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">311</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">514</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">523</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">385</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">460</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">309</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">342</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">734</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Muzambique</td><td class="r">394</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">257</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">304</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Muzambique</td><td class="r">330</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">260</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">227</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">562</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">291</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">339</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2634</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">287</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2578</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">345</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">433</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">259</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" align="center"><i>September</i></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">3170</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">685</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table summary="customhouse"  cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:85%;">
+<tr><td colspan="8" align="center"><span style="font-size:120%;"><b>1822.</b></span></td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" align="center"><i>January</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>April</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>September</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><b>ABSTRACT<br />OF<br />1822.</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">744</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Quilumana</td><td class="r">323</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">572</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">January</td><td class="r">2347</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">417</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Quilumana</td><td class="r">203</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">534</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">February</td><td class="r">4273</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">459</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">519</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">466</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">March</td><td class="r">4401</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">144</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">418</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td class="r">524</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">April</td><td class="r">2131</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">305</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">291</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">298</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">May</td><td class="r">786</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">278</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">377</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2394</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">June</td><td class="r">2418</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2347</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">2394</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">July</td><td class="r">1118</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" align="center"><i>February</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>October</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">September</td><td class="r">2394</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">421</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>May</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">467</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">October</td><td class="r">1666</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">419</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">398</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td class="r">428</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">November</td><td class="r">1902</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">399</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">388</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">434</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">December</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1498</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">520</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">786</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">337</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">24,934</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">406</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1666</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">400</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">406</td>
+<td colspan="2" align="center" style="border-left:1px solid black;"><i>June</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">436</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">432</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>November</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">446</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">533</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">417</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">420</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">302</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">499</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">4273</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td class="r">761</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">561</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">390</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Benguela</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">425</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" align="center"><i>March</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;">2418</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1902</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">667</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Cabinda</td><td class="r">400</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">504</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>July</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;" colspan="2" align="center"><i>December</i></td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">487</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">427</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Luanda</td><td class="r">514</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Quilumana</td><td class="r">406</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Angola</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">691</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Cabinda</td><td class="r">534</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">452</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1118</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Quilumana</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">450</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Muzambique</td><td class="r">455</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">1498</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">305</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td class="r">354</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Angola</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">371</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td style="border-bottom:1px solid black;" class="r">4401</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td style="border-left:1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> Various ordinances of the 3d and 19th June and the 3d of
+August, 1822, and of the 20th and 22d February, 1823, had been published
+for the assembling or regulating the election of deputies from the
+provinces of Brazil, to form a constituent assembly. Early in April,
+1823, the greater number of those who could be collected in the present
+state of the country had arrived in the capital. On the 14th of that
+month, the Emperor fixed their first meeting for the 17th. Accordingly
+on the 17th of April, 1823, the deputies, in number 52, entered their
+house of assembly at nine o'clock in the morning, and proceeded to elect
+a temporary president and secretary, when the Right Reverend Don Jose
+Caetano da Silva Coutinho, bishop and grand chaplain, was elected
+president, and Manoel Jose de Sousa Fran&ccedil;a secretary.
+</p><p>
+The first act was to name two committees; one of five members, to hold a
+scrutiny on the election of the deputies generally; and the other of
+three, to examine those of the five. This necessary business, and some
+consequent discussion, occupied the whole of the first and greater part
+of the second session; towards the end of the latter, the form of the
+oath to be administered to the members, was decided:&mdash;
+</p><p>
+"I swear to fulfil, faithfully and truly, the obligations of deputy to
+the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly of Brazil, convoked in
+order to frame a political constitution for the empire of Brazil, and to
+make indispensable and urgent reforms. Maintaining always the Roman
+Catholic and Apostolic religion, and the integrity and independence of
+the empire; without admitting any other nation whatever to any bond of
+union or federation which might oppose that independence. Maintaining
+also the constitutional empire, and the dynasty of the Lord Don Peter,
+our first Emperor, and his issue."
+</p><p>
+The third session was occupied in regulating the forms of the assembly.
+The throne to be placed at one end of the hall; on the first step on the
+right-hand side, the President shall have his chair when the Emperor
+presides, otherwise the chair to be in front of the throne, with a small
+table, separate from the table of the members, and on it the Gospel, a
+copy of the constitution, and a list of the members. When the Emperor
+opens the assembly, his great officers may accompany him, and the
+ministers may sit on his right; proper places are appointed for
+ambassadors, and a gallery is open to strangers. Some other forms as to
+the reception of the Emperor, or a regent, or a minister commissioned by
+him, were also settled; and then the 1st of May was fixed on for the
+whole body of the members to go to the chapel royal, and after hearing
+the mass of the Holy Ghost, to take their oaths. The 2d was appointed
+for a deputation to wait on the Emperor, and inform him that they were
+ready to proceed on the 3d, and with his assistance to open the
+important business on which they had met.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> The crown is of a purple velvet, enriched with diamonds.
+There was some mistake or misunderstanding about the fact of wearing the
+crown at the opening of the assembly. As the crown is only a ceremonial
+badge of dignity, it should have been worn during the ceremony; but
+owing to the mistake alluded to, it was not.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> Nearly 2000 feet high.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a>
+</p>
+<table summary="ships1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:85%;">
+<tr><td colspan="9" align="center"><br /><i>Brazilian Ships</i>.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Line-of-battle ship D. Pedro I.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>64 guns,</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">really,</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>guns</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Frigate Uni&#259;o</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>44</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Frigate Carolina</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>36</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>44</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Frigate Successo[*]</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>36</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>38</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Corvette Maria da Gloria</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>32</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>32</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Corvette Liberal</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>22</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>22</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Schooner Real</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>16</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>16</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Nightingale</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>20</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="r">Total</td>
+<td>250</td>
+<td>guns.</td>
+<td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+<td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>300</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="6">There is besides one fire-ship and one gun-boat.</td>
+<td>&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="8" align="center">Note: *(Now <i>Nitherohy</i>.)</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table summary="ships2" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="font-size:85%;">
+<tr><td colspan="5" align="center"><i>Ships of the Portuguese Squadron</i>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">Guns.</td><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Line-of-battle ship D. Jo&#259;o 6</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">74</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Commandante Capit&#259;o de Fragata Joaquin José da Cunha</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Frigate Constitui&ccedil;&#259;o</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">50</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o de Fragata Joaquim Maria Bruno de Moraes.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dita Perola</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">44</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o de Fragata José Joaquim d'Amorim.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Corvette Princeza Real</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">28</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o Tenente Francisco Borja Pereira de S&aacute;.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dita Calypso</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">22</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o Tenente Joaquim Antonio de Castro.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dita Regenera&ccedil;&#259;o</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">26</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o de Fragata Jo&#259;o Ignacio da Silveira e Motta.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dita Dez de Fevereiro</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">26</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o de Fragata Miguel Gil de Noronha.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dita Activa</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">22</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o Lieut. Isidoro Francisco Guimar&#259;es.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Brig Audaz</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">20</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Capit&#259;o Tenente Jo&#259;o da Costa Carvalho.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Corvette S. Gaulter</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">26</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">1º Lieut. Graduado Manoel de Jesus.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Corvette Principe do Brazil</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">26</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">Lieut. Antonio Feliciano Rodrigues.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dita Restaura&ccedil;&#259;o</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">26</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">1º Tenente Graduado Flores.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Sumaca Concei&ccedil;&#259;o</td><td>&mdash;</td><td class="r">8</td><td style="padding-left:1em;">2º Tenente Carvalho.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;</td><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>Total</td><td class="r">398</td><td>guns.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a>
+<a href="#FNanchor_109_109">
+<span class="label">[109]</span></a> One ship of the line, five frigates, five corvettes, a
+brig, and a schooner.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a>
+<a href="#FNanchor_110_110">
+<span class="label">[110]</span></a> <i>Semanario Civico</i> of the 5th June.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a>
+<a href="#FNanchor_111_111">
+<span class="label">[111]</span></a>This is reported only. I have never asked, nor should I,
+I imagine, receive an answer if I did ask, any English officer about such things. The general disposition among them is evidently towards the old government; but their conduct is, as it ought to be, strictly
+neutral.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> On the 9th of March, an Imperial edict was published,
+desiring all such as would not conform to the laws of the empire to quit
+it within two months, if they dwelt on the coast, and within four, if
+inland, on pain of loss of property; and thenceforth all good subjects
+to wear on their arms the green rose and gold badge, with <i>Independencia
+o Morte</i>, engraved on it.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> Extracted from a letter written to me on the 21st by a
+friend on board.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> The discussions in the assembly of the 9th of May throw
+much light on this transaction.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> For this beast, which is really fit for nothing but the
+riding of an invalid like myself, I gave 35 milrees; a price for which,
+in Chile, one might buy a very fine horse.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> Notwithstanding the peculiar circumstances, both on my
+own account and that of the invalid I had with me, of my return to Rio,
+Mrs. C&mdash;&mdash;, the wife of the British consul, took no notice of my
+arrival. I learnt afterwards, that it is expected that women, as well as
+men, should call on the consuls. I was not aware of this, having
+<i>formerly</i> received the first visits in such cases.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> I have eaten of the venison, and it is like roe-deer.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> The wages from a patac and half to two patacs per day,
+besides food.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> This is brought to the Engenhos of the district from the
+lake of Jacarepagua. I had no opportunity of seeing the whole plant.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> Taboa tinga, a very fine white clay, proper for making
+porcelain, very abundant in Brazil, and, as far as I can judge, the same
+as is found in the valleys of Chile.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> It is now certain that Joa&#335; Felix had at least that
+number.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> See Southy's Brazil, for the manners of the Tupayas. I am
+not sufficiently acquainted with the filiation of the Indian tribes, to
+know what relation the Botecudos bear to the Tupayas.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> Perhaps all the Indians may have been so far cannibals,
+as to taste of the flesh of prisoners taken in battle, or victims
+offered to the gods; but I cannot believe that any ever fed habitually
+on human flesh, for many reasons. But their traducers had their reasons
+for inventing and propagating the most atrocious falsehoods, as a sort
+of excuse for their own barbarity in hunting and making slaves of them.
+These practices, indeed, were so wicked, and so notorious, that in 1537,
+the Dominican Frey Domingos de Becan&ccedil;oo, provincial of the order in
+Mexico, sent Frey Domingos de Menaja to Rome to plead the cause of the
+Indians before Paul III.; who having heard <i>both sides</i>, pronounced that
+"The Indians of America are men of rational soul, of the same nature and
+species as all others, capable of the sacraments of the holy church, and
+consequently free by nature, and lords of their own actions."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> To this collection is a printed and engraved title-page,
+as follows: "Noticias Historicas e Militares da America Collegidas por
+Diogo Barboso Machado Abbade da Igreja de Santo Adriano de Sever, e
+Academico da Academia Real. Comprehende do Anno de 1579 at&eacute; 1757." It
+contains twenty-four pamphlets, &amp;c. The Abbade Machado's name is in
+almost all the historical books I have yet seen in the library. I know
+not how the collection of the author of the Bibliotheca Lusitania became
+part of the royal library.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a>
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i5"><i>Traduc&ccedil;&#259;o</i>.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">J&aacute; do ether fugio ventosa inverno,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">E da florida primavera a hora<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Purpurea rio: de verde herva mimosa<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A Terra denegrida se cor&ocirc;a,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Behem os prados j&aacute; liquido orvalho,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Com que medra&#335; as plantas, e festeja&#335;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Os abertos bot&#335;es das novas rosas.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Com as asperos sons da frauta rude<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Folga o Serrano, o Pegureiro folga<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Com as alvos recentes cabritinhos.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">J&uacute; sulca&#335; Nantas estendidas ondas;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">E Favonio innocente as velas boja.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As Menades, cubertas as cabe&ccedil;as<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Da flor d'hera, tres vezes enrolada,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Do uvifero Baccho orgias celebra&#335;:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A Gera&ccedil;a&#335; bovina das abelhas<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Seus trabalhos completa; j'a produzem<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Formoso mel; nos favos repousados<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Candida cera multiplica&#335;. Canta&#335;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Por toda a parte as sonorosas aves:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nas ondas o Aleya&#335;, em torna aos tectos<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Canta a Andorinha; canta o branco Cysne<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Na ribanceira, e o Rouxinol no bosque.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Se pois as plantas ledas reverdecem;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Florece a Terra; o Guardador a frauta<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tange, e folga co'as ma&ccedil;ans folhudas;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Se aves gorgeia&#335;; se as abelhas cria&#335;;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Navega&#335; Nautas; Baccho guia as choros:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Porque na&#365; cantar&aacute; tambem o Vate<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A risonha, a formosa Primavera?<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> See the Emperor's speech on the 3d May.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_127_127" id="Footnote_127_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> A wheel or revolving box, like that at a convent, into
+which the infants are put.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_128_128" id="Footnote_128_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> See Tales of the Hall.&mdash;The Sisters.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_129_129" id="Footnote_129_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> See the Appendix.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_130_130" id="Footnote_130_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> 2 Maccabees, chap. <span class="smcap">xv</span>. ver. 37, 38.</p></div>
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #21201 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/21201)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, by Maria Graham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journal of a Voyage to Brazil
+       And Residence There During Part of the Years 1821, 1822, 1823
+
+Author: Maria Graham
+
+Release Date: April 22, 2007 [EBook #21201]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at DP Europe
+(http://dp.rastko.net)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Transcriber's note: The spelling of the original has been retained.
+This includes a few apparent mis-spellings and varied spellings of the
+same words and names. Diacritical marks not available in this characters
+set are handled thusly:
+
+[=e]--for the letter e with a line over it.
+[)a]--for a letter a with a u-shape over it.
+[)o]--for a letter o with a u-shape over it.
+[)u]--for a letter u with a u-shape over it.]
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL,
+
+AND
+
+RESIDENCE THERE, DURING PART OF THE YEARS 1821, 1822, 1823.
+
+BY MARIA GRAHAM.
+
+ONCE MORE UPON THE WATERS, YET ONCE MORE,
+AND THE WAVES BOUND BENEATH ME AS A STEED
+THAT KNOWS HIS RIDER.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+LONDON:
+
+PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,
+
+PATERNOSTER-ROW;
+
+AND J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
+
+1824.
+
+LONDON:
+
+Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Although the Journal of a voyage to Brazil, and of a residence of many
+months in that country, was not written without a view to publication at
+some time; yet many unforeseen circumstances forced the writer to pause
+before she committed it to press, and to cancel many pages recording
+both public and private occurrences.
+
+Perhaps there is even yet too much of a personal nature, but what is
+said is at least honest; and if the writer should suffer personally by
+candour, the suffering will be cheerfully borne.
+
+As to public events, all that can be new in the Journal is the bringing
+together facts which have reached Europe one by one, and recording the
+impression produced on the spot by those occurrences which might be
+viewed in a very different light elsewhere. Some have, no doubt, been
+distorted by the interested channels through which they have reached the
+public; some by the ignorance of the reporters; and most by the party
+spirit which has viewed either with enthusiasm or malignity the
+acquisition of freedom in any quarter of the globe.
+
+The writer does not pretend to perfect impartiality, for in some cases
+impartiality is no virtue; but knowing that no human good can be
+attained without a mixture of evil, she trusts that a fair picture of
+both has been given, although it has cost some pain in the writing.
+
+Of the natives of the country, or of those engaged in its service, what
+is said, whether of those still employed or of those no longer in the
+empire, was written under the impression of the moment; and the writer's
+confidence in the good sense and justice of the Brazilian government and
+people is such, that she leaves the passages as they stood at the moment
+of writing.
+
+The events of the last three years in Brazil have been so important,
+that it was thought best not to interrupt the account of them, by
+continuing what may be called the writer's personal narrative after she
+reached Chile; therefore the two visits to Brazil are printed together,
+along with an Introduction containing a sketch of the history of the
+country previous to the first visit, and a notice of the public events
+of the year of her absence, to connect it with the second.
+
+The Journal of a visit to Chile will form the subject of a separate
+volume.
+
+It was thought essential that the narratives concerning Spanish and
+Portuguese America should be kept quite separate; the countries
+themselves being as different in climate and productions, as the
+inhabitants are in manners, society, institutions, and government.
+
+Nothing can be more interesting than the actual situation of the whole
+of South America. While Europe was engaged in the great revolutionary
+war, that country was silently advancing towards the point at which
+longer subjection to a foreign dominion became impossible.
+Circumstances, not laws, had opened the ports of the South Atlantic and
+the Pacific. Individuals, not nations, had lent their aid to the
+patriots of the New World: and more warlike instruments and ammunition
+had gone silently from the warehouses of the merchant to arm the natives
+against their foreign tyrants, than had ever issued from the arsenals of
+the greatest nations. But, for a period, Brazil did not openly join in
+the struggle for independence. The Royal Family of Portugal took refuge
+there; and converted it, by that step, from a colony into the seat of
+government, from a state of slavery to one of sovereignty. Therefore,
+while the court continued to reside at Rio de Janeiro, the Brazilians
+had no inducement to break with the mother country. But it was very
+different when the King returned to Lisbon, and the Cortes, forgetting
+the change of men's minds produced by circumstances, endeavoured to
+force Brazil back to the abject state from which she had arisen. Then
+arose the struggle, some part of which it was the fortune of the writer
+to witness; and concerning which she was able to collect some facts
+which may serve as materials for future history. She trusts that if the
+_whole truth_ is not to be found in her pages, that there will be
+_nothing but the truth_.
+
+It is with no small anxiety that the Journal is sent into the world, in
+the hope that it may tend to excite interest for the country by making
+it better known. Perhaps the writer has over-rated her powers, in
+attempting to record the progress of so important an event as the
+emancipation of such an empire from the thraldrom of the mother country.
+The lighter part of her task, namely, the description of the country,
+its inhabitants, and the manners of the different classes, both of
+natives and foreigners, should have been fuller; but that want of
+health, and sometimes want of spirits, prevented her from making use of
+all the means that might have been within her reach of acquiring
+knowledge. She trusts, however, that there is no misrepresentation of
+importance; and that the Journal, the writing of which has to her
+beguiled many a lonely and many a sorrowful hour, will not give a
+moment's pain to any human creature.
+
+
+
+
+PLATES.
+
+
+PLATE I. Val Longo, or Slave Market at Rio _to front the Title Page_.
+
+II. Represents the Great Dragon Tree of Oratava, of which Humboldt has
+given so interesting an account. He saw it in all its greatness; I drew
+it after it had lost half its top _to face Page 85_
+
+III. View of Count Maurice's Gate at Pernambuco, with the Slave Market
+107
+
+IV. Gamella Tree at Bahia 135
+
+V. Larangeiras 163
+
+VI. View from Count Hoggendorp's Cottage 170
+
+VII. View of Rio from the Gloria Hill 169
+
+VIII. Corcovado, from Botofogo 220
+
+IX. Palace of San Cristova� 246
+
+X. Dona Maria de Jesus 292
+
+XI. English Burial Ground 307
+
+
+
+
+VIGNETTES.
+
+
+I. That at the head of the Journal, page 77, represents two young Dragon
+Trees; that with a single head is twenty years old, and had not, when I
+saw it, been tapped for the Dragon's Blood. The other is about a century
+old, and the bark is disfigured by the incisions made in it to procure
+the gum _to face Page 77_
+
+II. Part of Pernambuco, seen from Cocoa-nut Island, within the Reef 97
+
+III. Slaves dragging a Hogshead in the Streets of Pernambuco 131
+
+IV. Cadeira, or Sedan Chair of Bahia 133
+
+V. Church and Convent of Sant Antonio da Barre at Bahia, as seen from
+the Ro�a 157
+
+VI. The Sugar-loaf Rock, at the Entrance to the Harbour of Rio de
+Janeiro 158
+
+VII. The End of an Island in the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro, drawn for
+the sake of the variety of Vegetation 201
+
+VIII. Convicts carrying Water at Rio de Janeiro 217
+
+IX. Stone Cart at Rio de Janeiro 321
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL.
+
+
+I judged it necessary to prefix the following sketch of the history of
+Brazil to the journal of my voyage thither, in order that the political
+events to which I was an eye-witness might be the better understood.
+
+The early part of the history is almost entirely taken from Mr. Southey.
+It would have been easy for me to have referred to the Portuguese
+authors, as I have read nearly all that are to be found in print of Mr.
+Southey's authorities, and some that he does not mention; but Mr.
+Southey had been so faithful as well as judicious in the use he has made
+of his authors, that it would have been absurd, if not impertinent, to
+have neglected his guidance. From the time of the King's arrival in
+Brazil, or rather of his leaving Lisbon, I am answerable for all I have
+stated: it is little, but I hope that little is correct.
+
+The circumstances of Spanish and Portuguese America were very different
+in every stage. In Mexico, in Peru, in Chili, the conquerors encountered
+a people civilised and humane; acquainted with many of the arts of
+polished life; agriculturists and mechanics; knowing in the things
+belonging to the altar and the throne, and waging war for conquest and
+for glory. But the savages of Brazil were hunters and cannibals; they
+wandered, and they made war for food: few of the tribes knew even the
+cultivation of the mandioc, and fewer still had adopted any kind of
+covering, save paint and feathers for ornament. The Spanish conquests
+were more quickly made, and appeared more easily settled, because in
+states so far advanced in civilisation the defeat of an army decides the
+fate of a kingdom, and the land already cultivated, and the mines
+already known and worked, were entered upon at once by the conquerors.
+
+In Brazil the land that was granted by leagues was _to be won by inches_
+from the hordes of savages who succeeded each other in incalculable
+multitudes, and whose migratory habits rendered it a matter of course
+for one tribe immediately to occupy the ground from which its
+predecessors had been driven. Hence the history of the early settlers in
+Brazil presents none of those splendid and chivalresque pictures that
+the chronicles of the Corteses, and Pizarros, and Almagros furnish. They
+are plain, and often pathetic scenes of human life, full of patience,
+and enterprise, and endurance; but the wickedness that stains even the
+best of them, is the more disgusting as it is more sordid.
+
+But the very circumstances that facilitated the settling of the Spanish
+colonies were also likely to accelerate their liberation. A sense and a
+remembrance of national honour and freedom, remained among the polished
+Mexicans and Peruvians. Their numbers indeed had been thinned by the
+cruelties of the conquerors, but enough were left to perpetuate the
+memory of their fathers, to hand down the prophecies uttered in the
+phrenzy of their dying patriots; and the Peruvian, when he visited Lima,
+looked round the chamber of the viceroys, as he saw niche after niche
+filled up with their pictures, till the fated number should be
+accomplished, with no common emotion[1]; and many a dreamer on the
+Peruvian coast, when he saw the Admiral of the Chilian squadron, was
+ready to hail him as the golden-haired son of light who was to restore
+the kingdom of the Incas.[2]
+
+[Note 1: The hall with the pictures of the viceroys was filled:
+there would be no room in it for Lacerna.]
+
+[Note 2: This prophecy was recorded by Garcela�o de la Vega; and it
+is said, that the copies of his Incas were bought up, and an edition
+printed, omitting the prophecy.]
+
+But in Brazil, what was once gained was not likely to be lost by the
+efforts of the natives, or at least by any recollection of their's,
+pointing to a better or more glorious time. They have been either
+exterminated, or wholly subdued. The slave hunting, which had been
+systematic on the first occupation of the land, and more especially
+after the discovery of the mines, had diminished the wretched Indians,
+so that the introduction of the hardier Africans was deemed necessary:
+_they_ now people the Brazilian fields; and if here and there an Indian
+aldea is to be found, the people are wretched, with less than Negro
+comforts, and much less than Negro spirit or industry. Hence, while the
+original Mexicans and Peruvians form a real and respectable part of the
+assertors of the independance of their country, along with the Creole
+Spaniards, the Indians are nothing in Brazil; even as a mixed race, they
+have less part among the different casts than in the Spanish colonies;
+and therefore jealousies among the Portuguese themselves could alone at
+this period have brought affairs to their present crisis. These
+jealousies have taken place, and though they did not arise principally
+out of the causes of the emigration and return of the Royal family, they
+were at least quickened and accelerated by them.
+
+In 1499, Brazil was discovered by Vicente Ya�ez Pin�on, a native of
+Palos, and one of the companions of Columbus. He and his brothers were
+in search of new countries, and after touching at the Cape de Verd
+Islands, he steered to the south-west, till he came to the coast of
+Brazil, near Cape St. Augustine, and coasted along as far as the river
+Maranham, and thence to the mouth of the Oronoco. He carried home some
+valuable drugs, precious stones, and Brazil wood; but had lost two of
+his three ships on the voyage. He made no settlement, but had claimed
+the country for Spain.
+
+Meantime Pedro Alvarez Cabral was appointed by Emanuel, King of
+Portugal, to the command of a large fleet, destined to follow the course
+of Vasco de Gama in the east. Adverse winds, however, drove the
+expedition so far to the westward, that it fell in with the coast of
+Brazil, and the ships anchored in Porto Seguro on Good-Friday of the
+year 1500. On Easter-day the first Christian altar was raised in the new
+continent under a large tree, and mass was performed, at which the
+innocent natives assisted with pleased attention: the country was taken
+possession of for the crown of Portugal by the name of the land of the
+Holy Cross, and a stone cross was erected to commemorate the event.
+Cabral dispatched a small vessel to Lisbon to announce his discovery,
+and then, without making any settlement, proceeded to India.
+
+On the arrival of the news in Europe, the King of Portugal invited
+Amerigo Vespucci from Seville, and sent him with three ships to explore
+the country. After a long and distressing voyage they arrived, and very
+early in their intercourse with the natives they discovered that they
+were cannibals, but nevertheless they established a friendly intercourse
+with some of the tribes; and after coasting along South America as far
+as lat. 52�, finding neither port nor inhabitants, and suffering from
+intolerable cold, they returned to Lisbon in 1502.
+
+Early in the next year Amerigo sailed again with six ships; but having
+stood too near the coast of Africa, after passing the Cape de Verds by
+the orders of the commander, four of the vessels were lost, but Amerigo
+with the other two reached a port which they called All Saints.[3] There
+they remained five months, in friendship with the natives, with whom
+some of the party travelled forty leagues into the interior. They
+erected a small fort, and left twelve men with guns and provisions, and
+having loaded their two ships with Brazil wood, monkeys, and parrots,
+they returned to Lisbon early in 1504.
+
+[Note 3: This cannot be Bahia; for they say, that after coasting 260
+leagues they were in 18�S.; now Bahia is in 12� 40', or nearly; the
+difference being 120 leagues; it must therefore be a port to the
+northward.]
+
+But as Brazil, as it now began to be called, did not promise that ample
+supply of gold which the Spaniards had discovered in their new
+countries, and which the Portuguese gained with less hazard from Africa,
+and from the East, the country ceased for a time to excite the attention
+of government, and the first actual settlements were made by private
+adventurers, who, on account of their trade, were desirous of having
+some kind of agents among the people. The first persons employed for
+this purpose were criminals, a sort of settlers that may do well in an
+unpeopled country, where there is nothing to do but to reclaim the land,
+but that must do ill where there are many and savage natives, because
+they either become degraded to the savage level themselves, if they
+continue friends, or, if not, they are apt to practise such cruelties
+and injustice as disgust the natives, render colonisation difficult, and
+if they teach any thing, it is all the worst part of the life of
+civilised nations.
+
+But in 1508, Amerigo Vespucci having returned to the service of Spain,
+the King resolved to take possession of the new land which had been
+discovered; and founding his claims on the grant of Alexander VI., he
+sent Vincent Ya�ez Pin�on and Juan Diaz de Solis to assert them. They
+made Cape St Augustine's, which Pin�on had discovered, and coasted along
+to lat. 40� south, erecting crosses as they went; but some disputes
+having arisen between them, they returned to Spain: and it appears that
+the remonstrances of Portugal against the voyage, as an interference
+with her discoveries, had some weight, for it was not until 1515 that
+Solis was dispatched on a second voyage, and then it was with the avowed
+purpose of seeking a passage to the Great Pacific Sea, which had been
+sought and seen by Balboa in 1513.
+
+That extraordinary but unfortunate man was the first European whose eyes
+rested on the broad Pacific. He had heard from the Indians of its
+existence, and resolutely set out to discover it, well aware of the
+dangers and difficulties he had to encounter. After twenty-five days of
+suffering and fatigue, he saw the South Sea; he heard of Peru, its
+mines, and its llamas, its cities and its aqueducts, and he received
+pearls[4] from the islands that lay in front of St. Miguel's bay, where
+he walked sword in hand up to his middle into the water and took
+possession for the King of Spain. No one in Europe now doubted that the
+western way to the East Indies was discovered.
+
+[Note 4: Pearl islands, in the bay of Panama. The sand of the beach
+of those islands is iron, and is as easily attracted by the loadstone as
+steel filings.]
+
+Great hopes were therefore entertained from the expedition of Solis.
+That able navigator made the coast of Brazil far to the southward of
+Cape St. Augustine, where he had been with Pin�on; and on the 1st of
+January 1516 he discovered the harbour of Rio de Janeiro; thence he
+sailed still to the southward, and entered what he hoped at first would
+be a sea, or strait, by which he might communicate with the ocean; but
+it was the river La Plata, where Solis and several of his followers were
+murdered and devoured by the natives. The ships then put back to St.
+Augustines, loaded with Brazil wood, and returned to Spain.
+
+But the King Don Emanuel claimed these cargoes, and again remonstrated
+against the interference of Spain so effectually, that three years
+afterwards, when Magalhaens touched at Rio de Janeiro, he purchased
+nothing but provisions.
+
+Meantime several French adventurers had come to Brazil, and had taken in
+their cargoes of Brazil wood, monkies and parrots, and sometimes
+plundered some of the weaker Portuguese traders. In 1616, two of these
+adventurers entered the bay of All Saints, and had begun to trade with
+the Indians, when the Portuguese commander, Cristovam Jaques, sailing
+into the port, and examining all its coves, discovered them, and sunk
+the ships, crews, and cargoes. About the same time, a young Portuguese
+nobleman, who had been wrecked on the shoal off the entrance of the
+harbour[5], and who had seen half his companions drowned, and half eaten
+by the Indians, had contrived to conciliate the natives. He had saved a
+musket and some powder from the wreck, and having taken an opportunity
+of shooting a bird in the presence of the inhabitants, they called him
+Caramuru, or the man of fire; and, as he accompanied them on an
+expedition against their enemies the Tapuyas, he became a favourite,
+married at least one Indian wife, and fixed his residence at the spot
+now called Villa Velha, near an excellent spring, and not far from the
+entrance to the bay.
+
+[Note 5: I suppose that off St. Antonio da Barre.]
+
+Caramuru, however, felt some natural longing to see his native land, and
+accordingly seized the opportunity afforded by the arrival of a French
+vessel, and taking his favourite wife, he went with her to France, where
+they were well received by the court, the king and queen standing
+sponsors at the baptism of the Brazilian lady, whose marriage was now
+celebrated according to the Christian form. Caramuru, however, was not
+permitted to go to Portugal; but by means of a young Portuguese student
+at Paris[6], he communicated his situation to the King Joam III., and
+pressed him to send an expedition to the bay of All Saints. Shortly
+afterwards, Caramuru returned to Bahia, having agreed to freight two
+ships with Brazil wood as the price of his passage, of the artillery of
+the ships, and of the articles necessary for trading with the natives.
+
+Still, however, as Brazil furnished neither gold, nor that rich commerce
+which the Portuguese derived from their Indian trade, it was pretty much
+left to itself for the first thirty years after its discovery; and then
+the regulations adopted by the court were not, perhaps, the most
+advantageous for the country. The coast was divided by Joam III. into
+captaincies, many of which extended fifty leagues, and each captaincy
+was made hereditary, and granted to any one who was willing to embark
+with sufficient means in the adventure; and to these captains an
+unlimited jurisdiction, both criminal and civil, was granted.
+
+The first person who took possession of one of these captaincies was
+Martim Affonso de Souza, in 1531, who sometimes claims the discovery of
+Rio de Janeiro as his, although it had been named by Solis fifteen years
+before. Souza was probably deterred from fixing on the shores of that
+beautiful bay, by the number and fierceness of the Indian tribes that
+occupied them. He therefore coasted towards the south, naming Ilha
+Grande dos Magos on twelfth-day, when
+
+    "Three kings, or what is more, three wise men went
+    Westward to seek the world's true orient."
+
+[Note 6: Pedro Fernandez Sardinha, the first bishop of Brazil.]
+
+St. Sebastian's on the 20th, and St. Vincent's on the 22d; but having
+proceeded as far south as the La Plata, he returned to the neighbourhood
+of San Vincente, where he ultimately founded his colony, and whence he
+named the whole captaincy.
+
+Martim Affonso de Souza was no ordinary man: his cares for his colony
+did not relax even after he had been recalled, and sent as
+governor-general to India, where he had before highly distinguished
+himself. He introduced the sugar-cane from Madeira into his colony, and
+in it also the first cattle were bred. Thence they have spread all over
+the continent of South America, and have proved of more real value to it
+than its mines.
+
+Pero Lopes de Souza, the brother of Martim Affonso, had his fifty
+leagues of coast in two allotments; one part, St. Amaro, was immediately
+to the north of San Vincente, and the other was Tamaraca, between
+Pernambuco and Paraiba.
+
+About the same time the Fidalgo Pedro de Goes attempted a settlement at
+Paraiba do Sul; but after two years tolerable prosperity, he was
+attacked by the native tribe of Goaytacazes, and five years of warfare
+reduced him to the necessity of sending to Espirito Santo for vessels to
+remove his colonists.
+
+Vasco Fernandez de Coutinho began to settle Espirito Santo in the same
+year (1531) in which the former colonies had been begun. He had amassed
+a great fortune in the East, and expended most of it in collecting
+volunteers for his new colony; sixty fidalgoes and men of the royal
+household accompanied him. The adventurers had a prosperous voyage. On
+their arrival they built a fort, which they called N. S. da Victoria,
+and established four sugar-works. Coutinho returned to Lisbon for
+recruits and implements for mining, the settlers having now obtained
+some indications of gold and jewels to be found in the country.
+
+The adjoining captaincy of Porto Seguro was given to Pedro de Campo
+Tourinho, a nobleman and a navigator. He sold his possessions at home,
+and raised a large body of colonists, with which he established himself
+at Porto Seguro, the harbour where Cabral had first taken possession of
+Brazil. The history of the settlement of Porto Seguro, like that of all
+the others, is stained with the most atrocious cruelties; not such as
+soldiers in the heat of war commit, but cold calculated cruelties,
+exterminating men for the sake of growing canes, so waiting patiently
+for the _fruit_ of crime.[7]
+
+[Note 7: I hope the following tale is not true, though my authority
+is good. In this very captaincy, within these twenty years, an Indian
+tribe had been so troublesome, that the Capitam M�r resolved to get rid
+of it. It was attacked, but defended itself so bravely, that the
+Portuguese resolved to desist from open warfare; but with unnatural
+ingenuity exposed ribands and toys infected with smallpox matter in the
+places where the poor savages were likely to find them: the plan
+succeeded. The Indians were so thinned, that they were easily overcome!]
+
+_Ilheos_, so called from its principal river, which has three islands at
+the mouth, was settled by Jorge de Figueredo Correa, who had a place in
+the treasury, under Joam III., between 1531 and 1540, and speedily
+became flourishing, being remarkably favourable to the sugar
+cultivation.
+
+Bahia de Todo os Santos was, with its adjacent territory, given to
+Francisco Pereira Coutinho, a fidalgo who had made himself a name in
+India. He fixed his abode at Villa Velha, where Caramuru had formed his
+little settlement, and two of his followers married the daughters of
+Caramuru.
+
+The bay, or reconcave of All Saints, is a magnificent harbour: the
+entrance appears to be a league in breadth; but on the right hand, on
+entering, there is a shoal dangerous to large vessels, called that of
+St. Antonio da Barre; and on the left, coral reefs running off from
+Itaporica. The country that surrounds it is so fertile, that it must
+always have been an object of desire whether to savage or civilised
+inhabitants; and it is not surprising that three revolutions, that is,
+three changes of indwellers, driven out by each other, should have been,
+in the memory of the Indians, before the settlement of Coutinho.
+
+That nobleman, whose early life had been passed in the East-Indian
+Portuguese wars, imprudently and cruelly disturbed the peace of the
+rising settlement, by the murder of a son of one of the chiefs. The
+consequence was, that after a most disastrous warfare, in the course of
+which the already flourishing sugar-works were burnt, he and Caramuru
+were both obliged to abandon the settlement and retire to Ilheos. Soon
+afterwards, however, he made peace with the Indians; but on his return
+to the Reconcave, he was wrecked on the reef off Itaporica, where the
+natives murdered him, but spared Caramuru, who returned to his old
+dwelling.
+
+In the settlement of Pernambuco, the first donatory, Duarte Coelho
+Pereira, was opposed not only by the natives, but by numbers of French,
+who having carried on a desultory though profitable trade on the coast,
+now joined the Indians in retarding those regular settlements which were
+likely to put an end to their commerce. The colony, however, had been
+planted at Olinda,[8] a situation as strong as it is beautiful, and
+Pereira contrived to engage some of the Indian tribes in his favour. The
+war was but of short continuance, and nothing farther, except the
+seizure of the little settlement of Garussa, in the woods and near the
+creek which separates Itameraca from the main land, occurred to impede
+the prosperity of the captaincy.
+
+[Note 8: There is a note in the first volume of Southey's Brazil
+concerning the name of Marino given to Olinda by Hans Staade. The other
+Brazilians call the Pernambucans of Recife Marineros still. Is this from
+the town or their nautical habits? or from the name of the Indian
+village Marim which existed in the neighbourhood?]
+
+The last colony which was founded during these ten eventful years was
+that of Maranham. Three adventurers undertook this settlement jointly.
+The most celebrated was Joam de Barros, the historian; the others were
+Fernam Alvares de Andrada, father of the writer of the Chronicle, and
+Aires da Cunha.
+
+Aires da Cunha, Barros's two sons, and nine hundred men, sailed in ten
+ships for their new possession, but were wrecked on the shoals of
+Maranham; so that it was long before any success attended the
+undertaking. Da Cunha was drowned, the sons of Barros slain by the
+Indians, and the rest of the people with difficulty survived in a very
+wretched condition.
+
+Meantime the passage through Magellan's Straits had been discovered, and
+the Spaniards, first under Sebastian Cabot, and afterwards under Don
+Pedro de Mendoza, who founded Buenos Ayres, had begun to settle on the
+shores of the Plata, not without opposition from the Portuguese, and a
+more obstinate and fatal resistance from the Indians. The tribes in this
+neighbourhood appear to have been more civilised than those of the coast
+of Brazil, and consequently more formidable enemies to the rising towns.
+Orellana had also made his daring voyage down the mighty river that is
+sometimes called by his name. He had afterwards perished in an attempt
+to make a settlement on its shores, and nearly the same fate had
+attended Luiz de Mello da Silva, who made a similar attempt on the part
+of Portugal.
+
+Cabeza de Vacca had also made his adventurous overland journey from St.
+Catherine's, and after settling himself in the government of Assumption,
+had conducted various expeditions of discovery, always in hopes of
+finding an easy way to the gold countries. In one of these he found
+traces of the adventurer Garcia, a Portuguese, who, under the orders of
+Martim Affonso de Souza, had, with five companions, undertaken to
+explore the interior of South America. This man had by some means so
+conciliated the Indians, that he was followed by a very considerable
+army, and is said to have penetrated even into Tarija. He is believed to
+have perished by the hand of one of his own followers, but no
+particulars were ever known of his fate.
+
+During the next ten years, nothing remarkable occurred with regard to
+Brazil, except the founding of the city of St. Salvador's, by Thome de
+Souza, the first Captain General of Brazil, who carried out with him the
+first Jesuit missionaries. For the site of his new town De Souza fixed
+upon the hill immediately above the deepest part of the harbour of
+Bahia, which is defended at the back by a deep lake, and lies about half
+a league from the Villa Velha of Coutinho and Caramuru.
+
+The temporal concerns of the new colony, derived inestimable advantage
+from the friendship and assistance of the patriarch Caramuru: as to the
+spiritual, it was indeed time that some rule of faith and morals should
+find its way to Brazil. The settlers had hitherto had no instructors
+but friars, whose manners were as dissolute as their own, and who
+encouraged in them a licentious depravity, scarcely less shocking than
+the cannibalism of the savages. These latter are said to have eaten the
+children born by their own daughters to their prisoners of war,--a thing
+so unnatural, that it only gains credit because the Portuguese sold as
+slaves even their own children by the native women. The apostle of
+Brazil, as he may in truth be called, and chief of the six Jesuits who
+accompanied Souza, was Nobrega, the cotemporary and rival in the race of
+disinterested services to his fellow creatures of St. Francis Xavier;
+and, with regard to his steady attempts to protect as well as to convert
+the Indians, another Las Casas.
+
+Brazil was becoming an object of importance to the crown of Portugal.
+The new settlement of Bahia was established on the king's account, and
+at his expense 1000 persons had been sent out the first year, 1549. In
+four months there were 100 houses, six batteries, and a cathedral: a
+college for the Jesuits, a palace, and a custom-house were begun; the
+whole was defended by a mud wall. The next year supplies of all kinds
+arrived from Lisbon, and the year after that several female orphans, of
+noble family, were sent out as wives for the officers, with dowries in
+negroes, kine, and brood-mares.
+
+About this time, a Spanish expedition destined for the river Plata
+miscarried; one of the ships was wrecked off St. Vincent's, and to Hans
+Staade, one of the crew who survived and after various adventures fell
+into the power of the Indians, we are indebted for the most authentic
+and particular account of the Brazilian Savages.[9] It is curious that
+the Indians of the new world, should so very far exceed all the savage
+tribes of the old in barbarity. But it is certain that no authentic
+accounts of cannibals have ever been brought from Africa; whereas, none
+of the early writers on Brazil and its inhabitants have failed to dwell
+upon their love of human flesh, as characteristic of the people.
+
+[Note 9: In the Historia da Provincia Sancta Cruz, by Pero de
+Magalhaens de Gandano, 1576, there is an account sufficiently tallying
+with that which Southey has compiled from Hans Staade and De Lery. But
+it is far from being so disgusting. There is a copper-plate representing
+the dragging the prisoner with cords, and felling him with a club. The
+author gives a short account of the then known plants and animals of
+Brazil, and concludes with the hope that the mines believed to exist may
+speedily be found.--See the collection of tracts by Barbosa Maehado.]
+
+The year 1552 is distinguished by the arrival of the first bishop in
+Brazil. His see was fixed at St. Salvador's, or, as it is generally
+called, Bahia. In the next year, Thome de Souza retired from his
+government, and was succeeded by Don Duarte da Costa, who was
+accompanied by seven jesuits, among whom was the celebrated
+Anchieta.[10] The chief of the order, Loyola, was still alive, he
+erected Brazil into a new province, and appointed Nobrega and Luis de
+Gran, who had been principal at Coimbra, joint provincials. From that
+moment the labours of the fathers for the real good of the country
+commenced. And whatever may be the opinions entertained, as to their
+politics and ultimate views, there is not a doubt but that the means
+they employed to reclaim and civilise the Indians, were mild, and
+therefore successful; that while they wrought their own purposes, they
+made their people happy; and that centuries will not repair the evil
+done by their sudden expulsion, which broke up the bands of humanised
+society which were beginning to unite the Indians with their fellow
+creatures.
+
+[Note 10: Anchieta was not only a man of extraordinary firmness of
+mind and real piety, but a politician of no common cast, and his civil
+services to the Portuguese government were equal to those of the
+greatest captains, while his labours as a missionary and teacher were
+beyond those of any individual of whom I have ever read. His merits as a
+christian apostle and a man of literature, have disarmed even Mr.
+Southey of his usual rancour against the Roman Catholic faith. That
+excellent writer's book on Brazil is spoilt by intemperate language on a
+subject on which human feeling is least patient of direct contradiction,
+so that the general circulation of it is rendered impossible, and the
+good it might otherwise do in the country for which it is written
+frustrated. Oh, that Mr. Southey would remember the quotation which he
+himself brings forward from Jeremy Taylor! "Zeal against an error is not
+always the best instrument to find out truth."]
+
+In 1553, the first school was established in Brazil, by Nobrega, in the
+high plains of Piratininga, about thirteen leagues from the colony of
+San Vicente. Anchieta was the school-master. The school was opened on
+the feast of the conversion of St. Paul, and the establishment, and the
+infant colony rising round it, received the name of the saint. St.
+Paul's has since grown to be one of the most important towns in Brazil.
+Its rich minerals, its iron-works, and other manufactures, but, above
+all, the high and free spirit of its inhabitants, who have taken the
+lead in every effort for the good of the country, distinguish it above
+all the southern towns of Brazil.
+
+Anchieta, while he taught Latin to the Portuguese and Mamalucos,[11] and
+Portuguese to the Brazilians, learnt from these last their own tongue,
+and composed a grammar and dictionary for them. He had no books for his
+pupils, so that he wrote on separate leaves, in four different
+languages, the daily lesson for each. He served as physician, as well as
+priest and school-master, and practised and taught the most useful
+domestic arts. But the colony had, like all the others, to fight for its
+early existence; it was attacked by the Mamalucos of the neighbouring
+settlement of St. Andr�, who regarded the instruction of the Indians as
+a step towards abolishing their slavery, and exclaimed against it as an
+infringement of what they called their right to the services of the
+natives. They engaged by other pretences some of the neighbouring tribes
+to assist them, but they were met and defeated by those of St. Paul's.
+
+[Note 11: Mamaluco. These were the Creole Portuguese, who had most
+of them intermarried with the natives.]
+
+Meantime some disputes having arisen between the Governor and the
+Bishop, the latter resolved to return to Lisbon, but was wrecked on the
+coast at a place called the Baixos de San Francisco, and there seized,
+and with one hundred other white persons put to death by the Cahetes.
+The revenge of the Portuguese was horrible, the Cahetes were hunted,
+slaughtered, and all but exterminated.
+
+In the year 1557, Joam III. died. His appointment of Mem de Sa, before
+his death, to the government of Brazil, prevented the country from
+immediately feeling the evils which a regency generally entails even in
+an established government, but which are sure to fall with tenfold
+weight upon a rising colony.
+
+Mem de Sa was a man of more enlightened mind, and more humane principles
+than most of those to whom the government of the Brazilian provinces
+had been intrusted. He arrived at Bahia in 1558, and earnestly applied
+himself to learn the relations in which the Portuguese, the Creoles, the
+Indians, and the mixed race stood to each other.
+
+His first acts were directed towards reclaiming the allied Indians from
+some of their most brutal practices, and to induce them to form
+settlements near those of the Jesuits. The selfish planters, interested
+in keeping up the feuds of the Indians, in order to procure slaves,
+exclaimed against these proceedings as violations of the freedom of the
+natives, and they were equally displeased at the orders issued, to set
+at liberty all the Indians who had been wrongfully enslaved. One
+powerful colonist alone refused to obey: Mem de Sa ordered his house to
+be surrounded and instantly levelled with the ground. Such an act was
+certainly calculated to inspire the Indians with confidence in his good
+intentions towards them, at the same time that his vigorous measures to
+punish them for any infraction of their engagements kept them in awe.
+
+Meantime an adventurer of no ordinary stamp, had formed a settlement in
+the finest harbour of Brazil, namely, that of Rio de Janeiro. Nicholas
+Durand de Villegagnon was a native of Provins en Brie, and a Knight of
+Malta. In 1648, he had been employed by Mary of Guise, at the entreaty
+of the French court, to convey her daughter the young Queen of Scots to
+France: in 1651 he was engaged in the defence of Malta, against the
+Pacha Sinan and the famous Dragut Reis, and two years afterwards
+published an account of that campaign. Having visited Brazil in 1558,
+Villegagnon could not be insensible to the advantages that must arise to
+France from having a settlement there; and, on his return to Europe, he
+made such representations at court of these advantages, that Henry II.
+gave him two vessels, each of 200 tons, and a store ship of 100 tons, to
+convey the adventurers who might wish to leave France, and who at that
+time were numerous. Villegagnon, wishing to make use of Coligny's
+interest, gave out that the new settlement was to be a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots, and this answered the double purpose of securing
+the Admiral's friendship, and gaining a number of respectable colonists.
+With these he reached Rio de Janeiro, and made his first settlement in a
+low rock at the mouth of the harbour, where there is now a small fort
+called the Laje, but finding it not sufficiently elevated to resist the
+high tides, he pitched on an island within the harbour, where there is
+only one landing place, and whose form and situation is singularly
+adapted for safety, especially against such enemies as the Indians.
+Those, however, of the Rio had been long accustomed to trade with the
+French, who, if they had not taught them, had at least encouraged them,
+to hate the Portuguese, whom Villegagnon flattered himself that he
+should be able to keep aloof by the assistance of the Savages.
+
+Meantime Coligny had exerted himself to send out assistance of every
+kind; provisions, recruits[12], and protestant ministers. But
+Villegagnon now imagined himself secure in his colony, and threw off the
+mask of toleration. He behaved so tyrannically that many of the Hugonots
+were obliged to return to France, and of them he made the most malicious
+complaints, and concluded by saying, that they were heretics worthy of
+the stake.
+
+[Note 12: Among these was Jean de Lery.]
+
+But nothing is so short-sighted as wickedness. Villegagnon's treachery
+was the cause of the ruin of his enterprise. Ten thousand protestants
+were ready to embark for Coligny, as the island, now called Villegagnon,
+was then named: but the report of those who had returned, stopped them,
+and the colony was left in a defenceless state.
+
+At length the attention of the court of Lisbon had been drawn towards
+the French settlement, and orders were sent to the Captain General to
+examine into its state first, and then, if possible, to take it.
+
+Accordingly, Mem de Sa, accompanied by Nobrega and two other Jesuits,
+attacked it in January, 1560, while Villegagnon was absent in France,
+and demolished the works, but had not sufficient force to attempt
+forming a settlement; and had Villegagnon succeeded in returning with
+the recruits he expected, he would have found it easy to re-establish
+and perhaps revenge himself. But his bad faith deterred the Hugonots
+from joining him, the civil war prevented the government from assisting
+him, and the French colony was lost.
+
+In 1564, Estacio de Sa, nephew of Mem, was sent out from Portugal to
+form a settlement in Rio, but finding his means inadequate to contend
+with the Indians, led on by the few remaining French, he went to San
+Vincente for reinforcements; these, however, only enabled him to keep up
+the war, and to maintain himself in a post he had fortified[13], not far
+from the entrance of the harbour, and near the Sugar-loaf mountain, a
+bare and inaccessible rock, which, from a base of about four hundred
+feet, shoots up to a thousand in perpendicular height, on the west side
+of the bar. He therefore applied to his uncle for succour, who,
+collecting what force he could, led them in person, and arrived in the
+harbour on the 18th of January, 1567. On the 20th, St. Sebastian's day,
+the Indians and French were attacked in their strongest hold, then
+called Ura�umiri, and having obtained a decisive victory, the French
+embarked in the four ships they still possessed, and fled to the coast
+of Pernambuco, where they attempted to form a settlement at Recife, but
+were dislodged by the Portuguese of Olinda.
+
+[Note 13: Mr. Southey says this spot is called Villa Velha. But
+there is no place existing in the neighbourhood of that name, nor could
+I find any person at Rio de Janeiro who remembered such a place. It was,
+however, most probably on the site of the present St. Juan, or of the
+fort of Praya Vermelha, which answers exactly to the description.]
+
+Mem de Sa now founded the city of St. Sebastian, more commonly called
+the city of Rio; and for its security the Jesuits, with their Indians,
+fortified both sides of the entrance to the harbour, which is about four
+miles distant from the city across the bay. Before these works, however,
+or the walls of the town were completed, the French made a vigorous
+effort to disturb the rising colony; but it ended in their defeat, and
+their guns were made use of to fortify the mouth of the harbour.
+
+Driven from Rio, the French attempted to form a settlement at Paraiba
+the next year; but the Indians, with the Jesuits at their head, and a
+very few troops, under the commander Martim Leytam, expelled them.
+
+Under Mem de Sa the state had been so prosperous, that though he had
+been Captain-general far beyond the term of his original appointment,
+Don Sebastian, on assuming the crown, continued him in office for two
+years longer, and then named Luiz de Vasconcellos to succeed him. That
+nobleman never reached Brazil. With him sailed a fleet of seven ships,
+bearing, besides the governor, sixty-nine Jesuit missionaries, and a
+number of orphan girls, whose parents had died of the plague, and whom
+the government was sending out to settle in Brazil. The fleet, in
+different divisions, fell in with French and English ships, and the
+Jesuits, save one, to use their own expression, received the crown of
+martyrdom, and the new governor was killed in action off Tercera. As
+soon as his death was known at Lisbon, Luiz de Brito de Almeida was
+appointed to his vacant office; and Mem de Sa just lived long enough to
+witness the arrival of his successor. Nobrega, who had begun that
+system, on which the singular government of the Jesuits in Paraguay was
+conducted, had died a few months before, so that Brazil was deprived
+nearly at once of the two ablest men that had yet been concerned in its
+government.
+
+But Luiz de Brito did not succeed to the government of all Brazil. It
+was judged proper to divide the colony into two captaincies, Rio de
+Janeiro being the capital of the southern division, which included Porto
+Seguro and every thing to the south of it; while Bahia remained the
+capital of the northern districts. There Luiz de Brito fixed his
+residence, and Doctor Antonio Salerna was appointed governor of the
+south. But this division was soon found inconvenient, and the two parts
+were re-united[14] about 1578, the year in which a new governor, Diego
+Lauren�o da Viega, arrived.
+
+[Note 14: When the Historia da Provincia de Sancta Cruz, by Pero
+Magalha[=e]s de Gadano, was printed, 1575, they were still separate; but
+Southey's MS. of 1578 says they had been re-united.]
+
+This was the year when the loss of Don Sebastian in Africa threw
+Portugal into the hands of Spain. King Philip, eager to annex that
+kingdom for ever to his crown, offered Brazil, with the title of King,
+to Braganza if he would give up his claim to the crown of Portugal. But
+it was reserved for his descendant to achieve the independence of
+Brazil, and he refused it.
+
+The colony was at this period most flourishing, though not altogether
+able to do without occasional supplies from the mother country. But
+already the original mud-cottages, supported by frame-work and thatched
+with palm-leaves, of the first settlers, had given way to well built and
+handsome houses of stone and brick, covered with tiles as in Europe. The
+reconcave of Bahia had sixty-two churches, and upwards of seventy
+sugar-works: the land was well stocked with cattle, all the kinds of
+orange and lime trees introduced by Europeans had flourished. The
+country abounded in excellent native fruits, and the mandioc furnished
+never-failing stores of bread. Olinda partook of all these advantages,
+and was itself the best built and most populous town in Brazil. Rio de
+Janeiro had become a place only inferior in importance to the other two,
+its natural advantages being still greater, and the climate milder; nor
+were the other captaincies less prosperous.
+
+But the transfer of the crown into foreign hands changed the aspect of
+affairs in Brazil. Inferior to the Spanish American countries in mines,
+it was considered only of consequence as being occupied by Spanish
+subjects, and so forming a barrier against the intrusion of other
+nations.
+
+By this time the English had begun to trade on the coast of Brazil, and
+in 1577 Drake had passed through the Straits of Magellan in his
+memorable voyage round the world. His appearance in the southern seas
+alarmed Philip the Second, now King of Portugal as well as of Spain, and
+consequently Lord of Brazil. He attempted to form a colony and maintain
+a fort in the Straits, in order to prevent future navigators from
+passing; but of it nothing is left but the name, _Port Famine_, which
+attests the miserable fate of the colonists. The English commerce was
+also cut off in Brazil. Some vessels trading peaceably at San Vincente
+were attacked in the harbour by the Spaniards in superior force; one of
+the latter was sunk, and the English escaped next day. In 1686, the Earl
+of Cumberland fitted out an expedition, in which Raleigh served and
+Witherington was admiral, which entered the reconcave of Bahia and
+plundered it, remaining there six weeks, the city being only saved by
+the Indian archers. Baretto, the governor of Brazil, died the next year,
+and was succeeded by D. Antonio Barreiros the bishop, and Christovam de
+Barros as joint governors; and they were soon superseded by Francisco
+Giraldes: he, however, never arrived in the country, and Don Francisco
+de Souza was appointed in his stead.
+
+During his captaincy some search was made after mines by a descendant of
+Caramuru, who offered to discover where he had found the silver of which
+he had services in his house and chapel, on condition of receiving the
+title of Marques. This Philip refused to grant, and the secret, if
+indeed the man had one, died with him.
+
+Meantime the celebrated Cavendish had made one voyage round the world,
+and had committed such ravages on the coast of Spanish America, as not
+even the atrocious habits of naval warfare in those days can excuse. In
+1591, he embarked in a second expedition, arrived in December on the
+coast of Brazil, and took Santos and burned San Vincente. The ships then
+sailed for the Straits, but were baffled in their attempt to pass, and
+returned to the coast of Brazil to obtain provisions. Cavendish, who had
+many great and good qualities, and who might certainly think it
+allowable to supply himself on an enemy's coast, made an attempt on
+Espiritu Santo, but by a mistake in executing his orders it failed, and
+he sailed for England, but died of a broken heart on the passage.
+
+The most remarkable expedition of the English to the coast of Brazil was
+that of Sir James Lancaster to Pernambuco. He had the command of three
+small vessels of 240, 120, and 60 tons. At Cape Blanco he learned that a
+rich carrack from India had been wrecked near Olinda, and that her cargo
+was safely stowed at Recife. He therefore fitted five out of near thirty
+small prizes to accompany him, and built a galley frigate to land with.
+He was also reinforced by Captain Vernon with two ships, a pinnace, and
+a prize, and then sailed direct for Recife, where they arrived in March,
+1595. On Good Friday of that year the town was taken with little
+resistance, and Lancaster permitted not the slightest disorder after the
+place was taken. He fortified the sandy isthmus which connects Recife
+with Olinda, and then proceeded at leisure to stow his ships with the
+goods found in the town, and hired the Dutch vessels lying in the port
+as store-ships. Some French privateers coming in, he also hired them
+with part of the booty to assist in the defence of the place, till the
+lading of the vessels should be completed. The Portuguese made several
+attempts to burn Lancaster's ships, which were all baffled by his
+prudence, and after remaining in possession of Recife twenty days he
+prepared to sail. However, on the very last day of his stay, some of his
+people, both English and French, having advanced too far in a sally
+against the Portuguese, were killed, and the enemy claimed a victory,
+which Lancaster being now ready for sea had no inclination to dispute.
+And this was the last attack made by the English on the coast of Brazil.
+
+But the French had renewed their attempts, and under Rifault and his
+successor De Vaux had succeeded in forming a settlement in the island of
+Maranham, 1611. And shortly afterwards Henry IV. sent Daniel de la
+Touche, Lord of La Rivardi�re[15], to examine the country, in order to
+form a permanent colony. His report was favourable; and though on his
+return to France Henry was dead, an expedition of three ships,
+containing 500 men, was fitted out, and in 1612 they arrived on the
+island, speedily conciliated the natives, and the colony promised to
+thrive. But the court of Madrid quickly sent out orders to the governor
+of Brazil to attack the intruders. Various accidents prolonged the
+warfare, and it was not until 1618 that they were dislodged, and a
+permanent Portuguese colony formed. Its distance from the seat of
+government determined the court of Madrid to erect Maranham and Para
+into a separate state, of which the capital was fixed at San Luiz, a
+town and fort built by the French on the island.
+
+[Note 15: In Barbosa Machado's curious collection of pamphlets, in
+the library of Rio de Janeiro, is one by the Capt. Symam Estacio da
+Sylveira, printed in 1624. He had been at the taking of Maranham from
+the French, and his paper is evidently a decoy for colonists. He says,
+that Daniel de la Touche was induced to go thither by Itayuba of the
+_Iron arm_, a Frenchman who had been brought up among the Tupinambas. Is
+this Mr. Southey's Rifault?]
+
+Meantime the Dutch had formed a West Indian Company, trusting that they
+would thereby be able to annoy the court of Spain in their American
+possessions, as they had already done in the East Indies. In 1624, a
+fleet under Jacob Willekins and the famous Peter Heyne was fitted out
+for that purpose. The ships having been separated in a gale of wind,
+Willekins made the Morro de San Paulo, about forty miles south of Bahia,
+where he waited for the rest of the convoy. When it arrived he sailed
+boldly into the reconcave, and St. Salvador was taken almost without a
+struggle. Vandort, the Dutch general, immediately began to fortify the
+place, and proclamations being issued promising freedom and redress of
+wrongs to all who should submit, many Indians, negroes, and Jews
+instantly joined him. But the Portuguese, who had hoped that the Dutch
+had only come to plunder the city, seeing that they were sitting quietly
+down as in a permanent establishment, roused themselves, and after some
+little disagreement as to who should command them, pitched on the Bishop
+Don Marcos Texeira. He fixed his head-quarters on the Rio Vermelho. The
+Dutch were weakened by the departure of Willekins for Holland, and of
+Peter Heyne for Angola, the plan of the West India Company being to
+secure that settlement, in order to have a certain supply of slaves for
+their new conquests in Brazil. Dort had been killed, and there was no
+competent commander. The Bishop's troops harassed those of the city in
+every direction, and the Dutch were prepared to become an easy prey to
+Don Fadrique de Toledo, who had been sent from Spain with a strong force
+to recover the capital of Brazil. They capitulated, therefore, in May,
+1625, and conditioned for being sent to Holland with sufficient arms and
+their personal baggage, leaving the city and forts as they were.
+
+The next year, however, Peter Heyne returned to the reconcave. Every
+precaution was taken against him by the governor. Four large ships with
+men and artillery were placed to intercept him; but in his single ship,
+the rest of his squadron not being able to come up with him, ran in
+between two of them, sunk one, and compelled several others to strike:
+his own ship, however, grounded, and he burnt her. He added four ships
+to his own fleet, loaded four others with prize-goods, and burnt the
+rest. Nor was this his only success; for although the Dutch had been
+baffled in several attempts on the coast, they sent home prizes enough
+to be of national importance.
+
+But a conquest of infinitely more consequence was shortly made; that of
+Olinda, which, in 1630, was taken after a feeble resistance on the part
+of Matthias de Albuquerque. The Dutch general-in-chief was Henrik Loncq,
+the admiral was Peter Ardian, and Wardenburg commanded the troops. The
+latter landed at Pao Amarello, three leagues to the north, while the
+ships kept up a regular fire opposite to the place; consequently the
+Portuguese were surprised, and the towns and forts easily taken.
+
+But the country around continued to be the theatre of a most cruel
+predatory war, during which atrocious cruelties were committed by both
+parties, but chiefly by the Dutch; and while these things were going on,
+a number of negroes had escaped from time to time into the great
+palm-forests, about thirty leagues inland, and had multiplied so that
+they are said to have amounted to upwards of thirty thousand. These men
+were governed by a chief whom they called Zombi: they had some laws, a
+shadow of the Christian religion, and were agriculturists. They harassed
+the Portuguese, and added by their depredations to the general misery.
+
+At length the Dutch government sent out Count Maurice of Nassau, to take
+the command at Pernambuco. He arrived in 1537, and carried on the war so
+vigorously that the Portuguese retired out of the province. He also set
+about reforming the abuses which existed among the Dutch themselves at
+Recife, and having established himself firmly there, he sent one of his
+officers, Jan Koin, over to the coast of Africa, who took possession of
+St. Jorge da Mina, by which a supply of slaves was secured, and leaving
+a garrison there, returned to Recife. The next year, Maurice made an
+unsuccessful attack on St. Salvador. His fleet anchored in the bay of
+Tapagipe; but though he obtained at first some important posts, he was
+finally repulsed and returned with loss to Pernambuco. There he occupied
+himself in building a new town, and making the two first bridges that
+had yet been built in Portuguese America, besides planting trees, and
+improving the fortifications. In 1640 he sent the famous sea-warrior Jol
+into the reconcave, to lay it waste; and he accordingly burnt the whole
+of the sugar-works in the bay, while the Indians who were friendly to
+the Dutch, fell on the land-side of the captaincy, and harassed the
+unhappy settlers in an equal degree.
+
+At length the court of Madrid began to be alarmed for the safety of
+Brazil, and fitted out a large armament for its relief. Storms and
+sickness diminished it, ere it arrived, to nearly one half. That half
+arrived at Bahia, in 1640, under D. Jorge de Mascasentras, Marques de
+Monte Alvam. Before he had time either to make open war, or to
+negociate, the revolution in Portugal, which placed Braganza on the
+throne of his ancestors, took place. The viceroy, unjustly suspected of
+adhering to Spain, was sent home, and a commission, composed of
+Barbalho, Correa, and the bishop, appointed in his stead.
+
+One of the first acts of the restored Portuguese government was to make
+a ten years' truce with the Seven United States. But this did not
+prevent the continuance of hostilities in Brazil, and the other foreign
+possessions of Portugal. Serigipe was surprised, Maranham conquered, and
+Loanda in Angola and St. Thomas's taken.
+
+Notwithstanding these successes, the Dutch government disapproved of
+Count Maurice's administration. Instead of sending home either to the
+States or the Company all the money and produce which he had gained in
+Brazil, he had laid out great part of it, as well as of his private
+fortune, in fortifying the mouths of rivers and harbours, particularly
+Recife, in repairing and beautifying the towns, and in other public
+works, which, looking forward to the permanent establishment of the
+Dutch in the country, he considered as absolutely necessary. He was
+accordingly recalled, and returned to Holland in 1644.
+
+After the departure of Maurice the tyranny of the Dutch became so
+intolerable, that the Portuguese began to rise against it almost
+universally.
+
+Maranham had already been wrested from their hands at the time of his
+returning, and that event seemed to be the signal for the long and
+calamitous struggle that ensued in Pernambuco and the neighbouring
+Captaincies. Joam Fernandes Vieyra, a native of Madeira, had, at a very
+early age, left his native island in hopes of bettering his fortune in
+Brazil. He had succeeded, and at the time we speak of, he was one of the
+richest Portuguese of Pernambuco, and highly esteemed by both his
+countrymen and the Dutch. Against the latter, however, he was animated
+both by patriotism and superstition. They oppressed his people, and they
+were heretics. After waiting for years for a proper opportunity to
+attempt their destruction, he seized the first months of Nassau's
+absence, and communicating his plans to none but to two friends, one of
+whom he commissioned to apply to the government of Bahia in person for
+succour, he waited patiently for an answer. This man, Andr� Vidal de
+Negreiros, executed his commission exactly, and shortly afterwards
+Antonio Diaz Cardozo, and sixty soldiers, were sent to Vieyra. He
+concealed them in the woods in the neighbourhood of his dwelling, called
+the Varzea, which was on the plain to the westward of the city, and then
+summoned the Indian chief Camaram and the Negro chief Henrique Diaz[16],
+to his assistance, and communicated his designs to his neighbours.
+
+[Note 16: The following is an extract from one of the letters of
+this Creole Negro: "Faltamos a obedien�a, que nos occupava no certam de
+Bahia, por na� faltar�mos as obriga�oens da patria; respeitando primeiro
+as leys da natureza, que as do imperio."
+
+_Castrioto Lusitano_.]
+
+Early in 1645 the war began in earnest. The most shocking atrocities
+were committed by both parties, especially towards the Indians, who
+themselves as they were the most faithful allies, were also the most
+inveterate and cruel enemies. In the course of the struggle, which
+lasted until 1654, several leaders on both sides were slain, but none so
+remarkable as the Indian Camaram. He had been educated by the Jesuits;
+he understood Latin, wrote, read, and spoke Portuguese perfectly, but on
+all occasions of ceremony used an interpreter, that he might not in
+public do any thing imperfectly, and thereby derogate from the dignity
+of his chieftainship. When a number of Indians were taken among the
+Dutch, at one of the strong posts of the latter, a relation of Camaram's
+was found among them. These men had all been condemned to death. Camaram
+did not intercede for the life of his kinsman, but he saved his honour:
+he slew him with his own hand, and buried him decently. The rest were
+hanged by the common executioner, and left for the fowls of the air.
+
+At length this horrible warfare was ended. The two battles of the
+Gararapes[17], had decided the fate of the Dutch in Brazil: but it was
+the co-operation of the fleet of the new Brazilian company that enabled
+Vieyra, who was the real commander in this war, although several
+military men of reputation, had, from time to time, had the nominal
+chieftainship, to reduce Recife, and on the 23d of January 1654, to
+present the keys of the city to the Royal Commander Francisco Beretto,
+and to restore to the crown of Portugal the empire of Brazil, after nine
+years of the most cruel war, during which the private fortune, and the
+determined spirit of individuals had sustained the conflict, generally
+without the aid, and often in direct opposition to the commands of the
+court. But men once determined on freedom, or on national independence,
+must in the end overcome all obstacles and vanquish every difficulty.
+
+[Note 17:
+
+Ves Agros Gararapes, entre a negra,
+Nuvem de Marte horrendo
+Qual Jupiter em flegra,
+Hollanda o vistes fulminar tremendo.--DINEZ.
+
+The Portuguese reader will do well to read the whole of Diniz's fine ode
+to Vieyra, as well as that to Mem de Sa, on his conquests at Rio de
+Janeiro. This writer is one of the best of the Arcadian school.--But he
+wrote on subjects of a minor interest, while Guidi wrote to the
+"d'Arcadia fortunate Genti"--of the Eternal city, where every civilised
+being feels he has an interest.]
+
+While these things were going on in the northern provinces, the Jesuits
+had formed their singular establishments in Paraguay, and endeavoured to
+stop, or at least limit the slave hunting of the Portuguese in the
+interior, though without effect. The best part of the colony of St.
+Vincent's had been removed to St. Paul's, a settlement on the plain of
+Piratininga, and had flourished surprisingly. The people had become
+hardy, if not fierce. They had distinguished themselves by the courage
+and perseverance with which they had explored the country in search of
+mines, and the activity with which they had brought in slaves for the
+new settlements. The consciousness of their strength begot in them a
+longing for independence, and seizing the opportunity of the accession
+of the House of Braganza to the throne of Portugal, they attempted to
+set up a king for themselves. Their attempt was baffled by Amador Bueno
+de Ribiero, the very person they intended for their monarch, who, when
+the people shouted "Long live king Amador," cried out "Long live Joam
+IV." and, being swift of foot, ran and took refuge in the Benedictine
+convent; and the same day, as there was no alternative, Joam IV. was
+proclaimed by all the people.
+
+The low state to which Portugal was now reduced, was seen in its effects
+on the government of Brazil. When the appointed Governors, either on
+their own judgment, or in obedience to the orders of the court of
+Lisbon, attempted to carry any new measure into execution which the
+people disliked, it was seldom in their power to enforce it, and they
+could expect little assistance from home. The Jesuits had undertaken the
+defence of the Indians, and endeavoured by every means to restrain the
+practice of making slaves of them, and to mitigate the lot of such as
+were already enslaved. But the Franciscans and some other orders derived
+equal pecuniary benefit with the hunters from the sale of slaves, and
+therefore they opposed them with vehemence. Interest was on the side of
+the Friars, and the most disgraceful scenes took place in various
+captaincies between the parties, the Governors being either not able or
+not willing to interfere with effect.
+
+Meantime, however, the people became accustomed to canvass and to
+understand public questions; their governors began to respect them as a
+real part of the estate; and a value for independence, and a feeling
+that to attain it was in their own power, grew out of these disorders.
+
+Had it been possible to have purified their religion from some of its
+most superstitious observances, and to reform the moral habits of the
+people, the prosperity of the country would soon have been equal to its
+means; but wherever slavery is established it brings a twofold curse
+with it. It degrades both parties even where the slaves are imported.
+How much more then, as was the case here, when they were hunted on their
+own grounds, where all the details, disgusting and iniquitous as they
+are, of the seeking, capturing, and bending to the yoke, pass under the
+eye till the heart grows callous to the cry of the orphan, the grief of
+the widow, and the despair of the parent in being torn from whatever has
+been dear to them?
+
+The history of the Jesuit Vieyra's mission to Maranham is as humiliating
+to human nature, as his sincere exertions in the cause of the suffering
+Indians is creditable to himself; but neither his exertions, nor the
+royal authority, could baffle the selfish cruelty and avarice of the
+people of that captaincy; they broke out into open rebellion in defence
+of their detestable practices, and even when they returned to obedience,
+there was a compromise between humanity and avarice, to which the
+Indians were again sacrificed.
+
+Rio de Janeiro had enjoyed a greater degree of tranquillity during the
+eighty years since its foundation than any other settlement, and its
+trade had increased together with its population; but the southern part
+of its jurisdiction was little more peaceable than Maranham, and not at
+all more inclined to listen to the remonstrances of the friends of the
+Indians. The Paulistas were the most difficult of all to manage; they
+had been the most active and daring of all that hunted either for slaves
+or for mines, and they were not willing to participate with others, far
+less to resign the advantages they had gained by unwearied labour and
+great sacrifices. Their conduct on the restoration of Portugal had
+evinced a desire of more than the freedom of a colony, and their
+neighbours were little less disposed for independence than themselves.
+Santos, and even Rio, had joined them, and had shewn a disposition to
+depose the governor appointed by the crown; and nothing but the
+unimpeachable character and firm conduct of Salvador Correa de Sa e
+Benevides (1658) prevented him from falling a sacrifice to that
+disposition. Bahia continued to be the capital of the Brazilian states,
+and its inhabitants proceeded to beautify it with churches, and
+convents, and nunneries, while they defied the spirit of Christianity by
+the importation of African, as well as the kidnapping Indian slaves.
+Pernambuco was still undergoing the miserable effects of the long and
+desultory war it had sustained; all the bands of government had been
+loosed during that disastrous period; law and justice had fallen into
+disuse; and had there not been a redeeming virtue in the free spirit
+that lived on in spite of the evils among which it had sprung, its very
+emancipation from a foreign power might have been regretted. The negroes
+who had escaped to the Palmares, and whose depredations had been
+disregarded in comparison with the evils of a foreign government, had
+become a real source of ill to the Pernambucans. Although they
+cultivated maize, and mandioc, and plaintains, they wanted every other
+supply. They therefore robbed the Creoles of their cattle, their sugar,
+their manufactured goods, and even of their Mulatto daughters and female
+slaves; till at length the government resolved to free the country of
+them, and called in the aid of a Paulista regiment for the purpose. Ten
+thousand of the negroes bearing arms had assembled in their chief city,
+which was surrounded by wooden walls, leaving the lesser ones
+uninhabited. But their enemies had the advantage of cannon against them,
+and of supplies of every kind; yet once the negroes beat off their
+assailants. But numbers overpowered them, and being weakened by famine,
+their city was forced, and the inmates seized as slaves. Zombi, however,
+and the most resolute of his followers, threw themselves from a high
+rock when they perceived their condition desperate. The Portuguese
+abused their victory, and murdered the rest.
+
+But there was an evil that affected Brazil generally--the too much and
+the too little power of the governors. They had too much power, if any
+appeal lay from them--too little, if they were absolute for the term of
+their government. They were also virtually free from responsibility;
+their opportunities, nay, their temptations to extortion were almost
+irresistible; and, to crown all, the corrupt administration of the laws
+kept pace with the vices and the irregularity of the government. In vain
+had the wisest regulations been made, and the most just decrees issued.
+The judges were in many cases parties concerned; they were so in all
+cases where Indians and negroes were the objects of their judgment, for
+they were possessors of both. Their salaries were insufficient, their
+fees arbitrary. What wonder then if the administration was corrupt!
+
+The cultivation of sugar and cotton had proceeded silently amidst all
+this confusion. The discovery of the gold and diamond mines assisted the
+government, both in Brazil and in the mother country, to make a stand in
+the midst of the eminent peril which threatened, in consequence of the
+losses sustained in the east, while at home there was a scanty and
+impoverished population, ruined manufactures, and, above all, a neglect
+of agriculture, that rendered Portugal dependent on foreigners for corn.
+Every thing was wanted; there was nothing to return; and at the
+beginning of the eighteenth century, Brazil may be truly said to have
+saved Portugal, by covering with her precious metals the excessive
+balance that was against her in every branch of commerce, in every
+department of government.
+
+Yet, though absolute ruin was averted, the weakness of the crown
+rendered it impossible to defend its foreign possessions from the
+attacks of a daring enemy. In 1710, a French squadron, under Duclerc,
+appeared off Rio de Janeiro, but not daring to pass the forts, sailed
+on, and after making several attempts to land a force at the different
+inlets, where he was deterred by the appearance of the militia of the
+country, succeeded at Guaratiba, between thirty and forty miles from
+the city, and thence he marched upon it with about one thousand marines.
+The governor, Francisco Castro de Moraes, made no attempt to stop him
+until his arrival at the city. There the first check the enemy met was
+from F. Francisco de Menezes, a Trinitarian friar, who appeared every
+where, and did what the governor, who remained quietly intrenched in a
+flat space, where the place of the Rosario now is, between two hills,
+ought to have done. The French having divided, one party attacked the
+palace, but the students of the college defended it successfully; and
+after a short, but desperate struggle, the French were overpowered, and
+the victory disgraced by the inhuman conduct of the Portuguese. Duclerc
+and his people were imprisoned and harshly treated. Duclerc himself is
+said to have been murdered in his bed.
+
+The next year drew on Rio de Janeiro a signal punishment for these
+proceedings. The famous Duguay Trouin undertook to inflict it; and
+accordingly, in August, 1711, one year after Duclerc's adventure, he
+arrived off the coast, and taking advantage of a fog, entered the bay,
+notwithstanding the fire of the forts.
+
+The Portuguese government had notice of his design, and had sent out
+stores and ammunition to meet the attack, and had appointed Gasper da
+Costa commander of the troops. But the sudden appearance of the French
+actually within the harbour, seems to have palsied the understanding of
+every person on shore, whose business it should have been to oppose
+them, and the forts and the city were given up almost without a
+struggle.
+
+It would, however, have been impossible for the French to maintain
+themselves in Rio; therefore Duguay Trouin, after refreshing his people,
+ransomed the city for 600,000 cruzadoes. Bad weather alone prevented him
+from laying waste the reconcave of Bahia, as he had done Rio: but he had
+fulfilled the ostensible purpose of his voyage by avenging the treatment
+of Duclerc and his people, and returned to France early in 1712.
+
+These circumstances had awakened the greatest anxiety on account of
+Brazil in the cabinet of Lisbon: and at the peace of Utrecht, 1713,
+every precaution was adopted by the Portuguese ministers to avoid any
+expression that might seem to admit of a free trade by any power
+whatever to Brazil, notwithstanding the agreements to that effect
+actually existing at the time. Disputes without end arose between
+Portugal and Spain concerning the colonies adjoining to the Rio de la
+Plata, and it was especially stipulated that no other power,
+particularly England, should be allowed to form settlements there on
+account of the facilities such settlements might afford for smuggling
+the precious metals out of the country. These had now become the first
+object in Brazil. St. Paul's had been erected into a city, and the
+district of the mines had been formed into a captaincy: the inhabitants
+of the coast flocked to the interior, where new towns were daily
+springing up; all were desirous of a share in that lottery where the
+prizes were so enormous, that the great preponderance of blanks was
+overlooked. Great inconvenience must have been felt by the early
+adventurers to the mines: for so many hands were employed in searching
+for gold, that few remained to cultivate the soil, and provide the
+necessaries of life. Yet that insatiable thirst of gold is a stimulus
+which has led to useful and to honourable things: it is not the love of
+the metal, but the possession of it gives power, and that is the real
+object of most men's ambition: it is certainly that of the ambition of
+all nations, and this object is held legitimate: we account those base
+or wicked who seek the means; we admire those who attain the end. The
+philosophic historian and the poet are alike ready to condemn the man
+who first dug the ore from the mine: the panegyric in prose and in verse
+is lavished on the hero and the patron. But gold furnished the means for
+the hero's conquests and the patron's liberality, and gold, or the worth
+of gold, is the object of both; whether in the form of continued power,
+or of that fame which patronage can bring. Sad indeed has been the waste
+of human life in searching for gold: but have all the mines together
+consumed more men than the single revolutionary war? And have not the
+religious contests among Christians, and their persecutions and
+mutilations and burnings cost many more? I would not justify the gold
+finders; their actions were horrible, their oppressions atrocious; but
+let them have justice: the stimulus was great; urged on by it, they
+performed great things, they braved cold, and hunger, and fatigue, and
+persecution, and death; they persevered, they opened the way to unknown
+lands, they laid the foundations for future civilisation in countries
+which will have reason to bless their discoveries, when the effect of
+their evil deeds, as well as the memory of the brutal customs of the
+savages they so unjustly oppressed, shall have passed away.
+
+But I have neither space nor inclination to follow their adventures, and
+must refer to Mr. Southey's elaborate and excellent account of them.
+Daniel Defoe alone could have so handled the subject as to make
+delightful so dull and so sad a tale. I am but a looker on to whom the
+actions of the present are more interesting than the past, but yet am
+not insensible to the influence that the elder days have had upon us.
+
+Pernambuco had during the half century which had elapsed since the
+expulsion of the Dutch had time to recruit. The sugar plantations had
+reappeared, and the commerce of Recife had become extremely important.
+The merchants, and especially those from Europe, had settled there, and
+the town had increased till it became the second of Brazil; while Olinda
+gradually declined, having few inhabitants besides priests and the
+representatives of the old families of the province, who might be called
+its nobility: still Recife was but a village until, in 1710, it
+solicited and obtained the royal assent to its becoming a town, and
+having a camera or municipal council to govern its internal affairs. The
+jealousy of the people of Olinda and the other old Brazilians was
+violently excited by this concession, which they conceived would raise
+the plebeian traders and foreigners to an equality with themselves.
+After several tumultuous meetings on the subject, three of the ten
+parishes belonging to Olinda were assigned to Recife, and the governor,
+fearing to set up the pillar which marks a township openly, had it
+erected in the night. Fresh disturbances ensued, in which some of the
+magistrates were concerned, and there were not wanting voices to exclaim
+that the Pernambucans had shown they could shake off the strong chains
+of the Dutch, and that they could as easily shake off others and govern
+themselves. The seditious magistrates were arrested and thrown into
+prison. The soldiers were employed to disarm the people; but they had
+now advanced too far to be easily reduced. The governor was fired at and
+dangerously wounded, and proofs were not wanting that the judge and the
+bishop had at least consented to the attempt on his life. The most
+serious disturbances followed: the inhabitants of the whole district
+took up arms, some blood was shed in the course of their contentions
+with the soldiers, and Sebastian de Castro, the governor, weakened both
+in body and mind, was induced to fly to Bahia for safety. Six of the
+chief Pernambucans were now appointed to exercise the functions of a
+provisional government till orders should be received from Lisbon, and
+all Europeans were deprived of their offices and commissions.
+
+But the bishop, who had been at Paraiba since the time when De Castro
+was wounded, now returned to claim his office as governor on the removal
+of the former one. He began to exercise his authority in the king's
+name, and his first act was to declare a general pardon. But he, however
+appears to have been a timid man: willing yet not daring to join the
+party who wished to shake off the yoke of Portugal, and by his
+vacillating conduct betraying both his friends in that party, and the
+trust reposed in him by the crown. At length, in 1711, these
+disturbances were quieted by a new governor, Felix Jose Machado de
+Mendon�a. Brazil was not yet ripe for independence; nor indeed could so
+small and ill-peopled a state as Pernambuco have maintained its freedom
+even for a year unconnected with the other captaincies. While these
+things were going on in the captaincies of Brazil, the Jesuits were
+labouring in the interior to reclaim the Indians, with success far
+beyond the apparent means, and some towns, which have since become of
+importance, were built on the coast and on the shores of the Plata,
+particularly Monte Video, in 1733; but the border war, between the
+Spaniards and Portuguese, which was waged on account of these
+settlements, disquieted the neighbourhood for a time. Its importance,
+however, was soon forgotten in the disturbances caused by the treaty of
+division between Spain and Portugal, which forcing the Indians who had
+been reclaimed to emigrate, roused them to a vigorous but short and
+useless resistance, which only began the evils that the Jesuit missions
+were destined to perish under.
+
+The Portuguese government, under the administration of Carvalho,
+afterwards Marquis of Pombal, had begun to attend to, and attempt to
+reform the abuses which existed throughout Brazil, but particularly in
+the newly founded captaincies and settlements, when the war with France
+and Spain broke out in 1762. For a time defence against a foreign enemy
+superseded every other consideration. The first act of hostility in the
+western world was the seizing of the Portuguese settlement of Columbia,
+in the Plata, by the governor of Buenos Ayres, before the squadron
+despatched by the governor of Brazil, Gomez Freyre, could arrive to
+protect it. That squadron consisted of the Lord Clive, of 64 guns, an
+English ship commanded by Capt. Macnamara; the Ambuscade, of 40 guns, in
+which Penrose, the poet, served as lieutenant; and the Gloria, of 38
+guns. The Spanish ships retired before Macnamara, and he ran under the
+guns of the forts of Colonia, in order to retake the place. He had
+nearly succeeded in silencing the batteries, when, by accident or
+negligence, the ship took fire; the enemy renewed their fire;
+three-fourths of the crew of the Lord Clive, among which was the
+captain, were drowned. The other ships were nearly destroyed and obliged
+to retreat; but owing to the neglect of the Spaniards, they were able to
+refit and return to Rio. And this was the most remarkable action of the
+war beyond the Atlantic, and the first in which the English
+distinguished themselves in the defence of Brazil.
+
+Pombal, meantime, having resolved on the suppression of the order of
+Jesuits, overlooked, in the ardour with which he pursued that measure,
+the important services they had rendered, and were daily rendering, to
+one of his favourite objects, namely, the improvement of the condition
+of the Indians. Their plan of discipline, indeed, hitherto had kept
+their pupils rather in a state of childish innocence than of manly
+improvement. Their fault was, that in order to secure obedience, they
+had stopped short of what they might have effected. Their dominion was
+an Utopia; and had it been possible to shut out every European and every
+wild Indian, it might have lasted. But such artificial polities can
+never be of long duration. Some convulsions either from without or from
+within must end them, and that with a more complete ruin than could
+befal states less curiously framed. But the well-intentioned labours of
+the missionaries had produced one decided good effect,--the habits of
+savage life were abandoned, and the advantages of agriculture and
+manufactures had been felt. The rock on which the education of the
+Indians split, was the community of goods. When a man has no property,
+but depends for the supply of his daily wants upon the providence of
+others, he has no incitement to particular exertion. The stimulus to
+industry cannot exist where a man has no hope of growing richer, no fear
+of becoming poorer, no anxiety about the provision of his family. His
+judgment in the portioning and disposing of his property is never called
+forth; all the qualities and virtues that arise out of the practice of
+domestic economy lie dormant, and the man remains an infant. It would
+have been easy to remedy this, by allowing the Indians to possess
+private stock, and to provide for their own families after the first
+generation. The newly reclaimed did require to be provided for, but the
+children growing up in the Aldeas might have been intrusted with their
+own property. They would have become men; and when the removal of their
+spiritual fathers took place, that wide and deep desolation would not
+have overwhelmed them, nor would Paraguay have gone back as it has done
+towards a savage state.
+
+The Jesuits of Brazil were expelled in 1760, in the most cruel and
+arbitrary manner. Those of the Spanish American colonies eight years
+later. Whatever might have been their faults, or even their crimes, in
+other countries, in these their conduct had been exemplary. They had
+been the protectors of a persecuted race, the advocates of mercy, the
+founders of civilisation; and their patience under their unmerited
+sufferings forms not the least honourable trait in their character.
+
+The history of Brazil, for the next thirty years, is composed of the
+mismanagement and decay of the Jesuit establishments; the enlargement of
+the mining districts, particularly in the direction of Mato Grosso; some
+disputes with the French on the frontier of Cayenne; and the more
+peaceful occupations of opening roads, and the introduction of new
+branches of commerce, and the improvement of the old.
+
+This tranquillity was for a moment interrupted by a conspiracy in the
+province of Minas Geraes, headed by an officer named Joaquim Jose de
+Silva Xavier, commonly called Tiradentes. The project of the
+conspirators was to form an independent republic in Minas, and, if
+possible, to induce Rio de Janeiro to unite with it. But their measures
+were most inadequate for the end proposed, and their conduct so
+imprudent, that, although there was a pretty general feeling of
+discontent on account of the taxes and some other grievances, the
+conspirators were all seized before they had formed anything like a
+party capable of resistance, much less of beginning the meditated
+revolution.
+
+The direct effects upon Brazil of the first thirteen years of the
+revolutionary war in Europe were confined to some slight disputes
+regarding the boundaries of the Portuguese and French Guiana, and
+concerning the limits of which, there was an article in Lord
+Cornwallis's negotiations with France, or rather the peace of Amiens in
+1802.
+
+The indirect effects were greater. Being a good deal left to themselves,
+the colonists had leisure to discover what sort of cultivation and crops
+suited best with the climate, and were fittest for the market; and some
+branches of industry were introduced, and others improved, to the great
+advantage of the province. Foreign ships, and even fleets, had also
+begun to resort thither[18]: so that, though the ports had as yet been
+closed against foreign traders, the entrance of men of war, and such
+merchant ships as could find no others to refit in, introduced a virtual
+freedom, which it would afterwards have been impossible not to have
+confirmed.
+
+[Note 18: That under Sir H. Popham, on Sir D. Baird's expedition to
+the Cape of Good Hope, for instance, in 1805, and that of the French
+admiral, Guillaumez, in 1806.]
+
+The court of Portugal meanwhile, as if infatuated by the negotiations of
+France, consented to buy a disgraceful neutrality at the price of
+1,000,000 of livres or 40,000_l._ per month, besides granting free
+entrance to French woollens into the kingdom.
+
+It was in vain that frequent representations were made to the ministry
+at Lisbon on the subject; that the armament at Bayonne, and the refusal
+of Spain to forbid the passage of French troops through her territories,
+were pointed out. The Portuguese forces were marched to the sea-coast,
+as if they apprehended an invasion from England; thus leaving the
+kingdom defenceless on the land side, and the ports were shut against
+English commerce, by a proclamation, dated 20th October, 1807. But the
+importance of Portugal to England, as neutral ground, or, in the event
+of a French government in Spain, as a point whence to attack the great
+enemy, was such, that the resentment which at another time would
+certainly have been openly declared, was suppressed; but a strong
+squadron was always kept up off the coast, partly to watch the
+proceedings on shore, partly to prevent the Portuguese vessels from
+coming out of port, and joining the French and Spaniards.
+
+While this system of watchfulness was kept up in Europe, the English
+ministry was not less attentive to the designs of France on the South
+American colonies. As long as Spain and Portugal continued to pay the
+enormous price in money for their neutrality, which France had demanded,
+the views of Napoleon were better answered than they could have been by
+the possession of all their territory and all their colonies. But the
+moment in which they should become unable or unwilling to pay that
+price, would of course be that of aggression and invasion. So early as
+1796, Mr. Pitt had contemplated the advantages that must arise to
+Britain from the possession of a port in South America, and particularly
+in the Rio de la Plata, nor did he ever afterwards lose sight of it.
+Some circumstances occurred in December, 1804, to draw his attention,
+particularly towards the subject, inasmuch as he had intelligence that
+France was about to attempt to seize on one of the Spanish settlements
+on the first opportunity. But we were then at peace with Spain, and
+however willing to prevent such an aggression on the part of France, and
+to assist General Miranda in his intended expedition to South America,
+it was impossible to co-operate with him, as he earnestly pressed the
+ministry to do, although the advantage to England of securing such a
+market for her manufactures was clearly perceived. Among the officers
+who had been most confidentially consulted by Mr. Pitt, on the
+practicability of obtaining a settlement on the La Plata, was Sir Home
+Popham; and it was probably his knowledge of the views so long
+entertained by that minister, that induced him to take the hazardous
+step, of leaving the Cape of Good Hope so soon after it had been
+occupied by the English forces, in 1806, and taking Buenos Ayres without
+orders to that effect. His immediate motive was, the intelligence he had
+procured, that the squadron of the French admiral, Guillaumez, had
+intentions of touching on the coast of Brazil, entering the La Plata,
+and, if possible, seizing, or forming a settlement there; and some North
+Americans whom he had met, encouraged the undertaking, by observing,
+that to throw open the ports of South America would be a common benefit
+to all commercial nations, but particularly to England.[19]
+
+[Note 19: For the political and commercial views entertained with
+regard to the assisting Miranda, or obtaining for England a port in
+South America, see Lord Melville's evidence on the court martial on Sir
+Home Popham.]
+
+In 1806, the demonstrations of hostilities against Portugal on the part
+of France were so evident, that Lord Rosslyn was despatched thither on a
+special mission, in which Lord St. Vincent and General Simcoe were
+joined with him. His instructions from Mr. Fox, then prime minister,
+were to lay before the ministry of Lisbon, the imminent danger which
+threatened the country, and to offer assistance in men, money, and
+stores from England, to put Portugal in a state of defence, in case the
+government should decide on a vigorous and effective resistance. If, on
+the other hand, Portugal should think itself too weak to contend with
+France, the idea that had once occurred to King Don Alfonso of
+emigrating to Brazil, and there establishing the capital of the empire,
+was to be revived, and promises made of assistance and protection for
+that purpose. If, however, Portugal insisted on rejecting assistance in
+either case, the troops under General Simcoe were to be landed, the
+strong forts on the Tagus occupied by them, and the fleet was to enter
+the river and secure the Portuguese ships and vessels, taking care to
+impress the government and people with the feeling that this was done
+from regard to the nation, and by no means for the sake of selfish
+aggrandisement on the part of England. It appears, however, that the
+French preparations for the invasion were not at that time so far
+advanced as had been imagined, and at the earnest entreaty of the court
+of Lisbon, the troops and the fleet were withdrawn from the Tagus.
+
+On the 8th of August, the next year, however, (1807) Mr. Rayneval, the
+French charg� d'affaires at Lisbon, received orders from his court to
+declare to the Prince Regent of Portugal, that if by the first of
+September he did not declare war against England, and send back the
+English minister, recalling the Portuguese ambassador from London, and
+did not seize all the English residents, confiscate their property, and
+shut the ports of the kingdom against the English; and lastly, if he did
+not, without delay, unite his armies and fleets with those of the rest
+of the continent against England, he had orders to demand his passports
+and to declare war.
+
+The Conde de Barca, then prime minister, was certainly aware of the
+preparations of the French government. But with that obstinate blindness
+which sometimes seems to possess men like a fate, he persisted in
+regarding them only as measures to intimidate and harass England. This
+nobleman had been ambassador at the court of St. Petersburg, and on his
+recall to take the first place in the cabinet at Lisbon, he was ordered
+to go by sea to London, and thence to Portugal, but he chose to perform
+the journey by way of Paris, where he saw and conversed both with
+Napoleon and Talleyrand. There cannot be the least doubt but that he was
+duped by those able men. Many considered him as a traitor. But the
+vanity of the Conde, who always said he had gone to judge of these men
+by his own eyes, though it makes him weaker, makes him less wicked, and
+was, perhaps, the true spring of his actions. He it was who carried the
+measures for the detention of the English, the confiscation of their
+property, and the shutting the ports against English commerce: adopting,
+in short, the whole of the continental system. The very day before Junot
+was to reach Lisbon, however, a Paris newspaper, written in anticipation
+of the event, announced that "_The House of Braganza no longer
+reigned_," and that its members were reduced to the common herd of
+ex-princes, &c., giving no very favourable description of them, and
+holding out no very flattering expectations for the future. This
+completely opened the Prince Regent's eyes, and he consented to that
+step, which D. John IV. and Don Jos� had contemplated, namely, the
+transferring the seat of his empire to his Transatlantic possessions.
+
+This was in the month of November, 1807, but the events of that month,
+the most interesting that had occurred to Portugal since the revolution
+that had placed Braganza on the throne of his ancestors, will be best
+understood by the following extracts from the despatches received by the
+British ministry from Lord Strangford and from Sir Sydney Smith at the
+time. On the 29th November, 1807, His Lordship writes, after mentioning
+the Prince's departure for Brazil:--
+
+"I had frequently and distinctly stated to the cabinet of Lisbon, that
+in agreeing not to resent the exclusion of British commerce from the
+ports of Portugal, His Majesty had exhausted the means of forbearance;
+that in making that concession to the peculiar circumstances of the
+Prince Regent's situation, His Majesty had done all that friendship and
+the remembrance of ancient alliance could justly require; but that a
+single step beyond the line of modified hostility, thus most
+reluctantly consented to, must necessarily lead to the extremity of
+actual war.
+
+"The Prince Regent, however, suffered himself for a moment to forget
+that, in the present state of Europe, no country could be permitted to
+be an enemy to England with impunity, and that however much His Majesty
+might be disposed to make allowance for the deficiency of means
+possessed by Portugal of resistance to the power of France, neither his
+own dignity nor the interests of his people would permit His Majesty to
+accept that excuse for a compliance with the full extent of her
+unprincipled demands. On the 8th inst. His Royal Highness was induced to
+sign an order for the detention of the few British subjects, and of the
+inconsiderable portion of British property which yet remained at Lisbon.
+On the publication of this order, I caused the arms of England to be
+removed from the gates of my residence, demanded my passports, presented
+a final remonstrance against the recent conduct of the court of Lisbon,
+and proceeded to the squadron commanded by Sir Sydney Smith, which
+arrived off the coast of Portugal some days after I had received my
+passports, and which I joined on the 17th inst.
+
+"I immediately suggested to Sir Sydney Smith the expediency of
+establishing the most rigorous blockade at the mouth of the Tagus; and I
+had the high satisfaction of afterwards finding that I had thus
+anticipated the intentions of His Majesty: for despatches (which I
+received on the 23d) directing me to authorise that measure, in case the
+Portuguese government should pass the bounds which His Majesty had
+thought fit to set to his forbearance, and attempt to take any further
+step injurious to the honour or interests of Great Britain."--
+
+----"I resolved, therefore, to proceed forthwith to ascertain the effect
+produced by the blockade of Lisbon, and to propose to the Portuguese
+government, as the only condition upon which that blockade should cease,
+the alternative (stated by you) either of surrendering the fleet to His
+Majesty, or of immediately employing it to remove the Prince Regent and
+his family to the Brazils."--
+
+"I accordingly requested an audience of the Prince Regent, together with
+due assurances of protection and security; and upon receiving His Royal
+Highness's answers I proceeded to Lisbon on the 27th, in His Majesty's
+sloop Confiance, bearing a flag of truce. I had immediately most
+interesting communications with the court of Lisbon, the particulars of
+which shall be detailed in a future despatch. It suffices to mention in
+this place, that the Prince Regent wisely directed all his apprehensions
+to a French army, and all his hopes to a British fleet: that he received
+the most explicit assurances from me that His Majesty would generously
+overlook those acts of unwilling and momentary hostility to which His
+Royal Highness's consent had been extorted; and that I promised to His
+Royal Highness, on the faith of my sovereign, that the British squadron
+before the Tagus should be employed to protect his retreat from Lisbon,
+and his voyage to the Brazils.
+
+"A decree was published yesterday, in which the Prince Regent announced
+his intention of retiring to the city of Rio de Janeiro until the
+conclusion of a general peace, and of appointing a regency to transact
+the administration of government at Lisbon, during His Royal Highness's
+absence from Europe."
+
+Sir Sydney Smith writes on the first of December the following letter to
+the admiralty:--
+
+His Majesty's Ship Hibernia, 22 leagues west of the Tagus, Dec. 1, 1807.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"In a former despatch, dated 22d November, with a postscript of the
+26th, I conveyed to you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty, the proofs contained in various documents of the
+Portuguese government, being so much influenced by terror of the French
+arms as to have acquiesced to certain demands of France operating
+against Great Britain. The distribution of the Portuguese force was made
+wholly on the coast, while the land side was left totally unguarded.
+British subjects of all descriptions were detained; and it therefore
+became necessary to inform the "Portuguese government, that the case
+had arisen, which required, in obedience to my instructions, that I
+should declare the Tagus in a state of blockade."
+
+(_Sir Sydney then repeats part of Lord Strangford's despatch._)
+
+"On the morning of the 29th, the Portuguese fleet came out of the Tagus
+with His Royal Highness the Prince of Brazil, and the whole of the royal
+family of Braganza on board, together with many of his faithful
+councillors and adherents, as well as other persons attached to his
+present fortunes.
+
+"This fleet of eight sail of the line, four frigates, two brigs, and one
+schooner[20], with a crowd of large armed merchant ships arranged itself
+under the protection of that of His Majesty, while the firing of a
+reciprocal salute of twenty-one guns announced the friendly meeting of
+those, who but the day before were on terms of hostility, the scene
+impressing every beholder (except the French army on the hills) with the
+most lively emotions of gratitude to Providence, that there yet existed
+a power in the world able, as well as willing, to protect the
+oppressed.--I have, &c.
+
+"W. SYDNEY SMITH."
+
+[Note 20: _List of the Portuguese Fleet that came out of the Tagus
+on the 29th of November, 1807._
+
+                    Guns.   Commanded by
+
+Principe Real        84,    Adm. Manoel da Cunha.
+                                 Capt. Manoel da Canto.
+
+Rainha de Portugal   74,    Capt. Francisco Manoel Soetomayor.
+                           _The Princess Dowager and younger daughters
+                            came in this ship._
+
+Conde Henrique       74,    Capt. Jose Maria de Almeida.
+
+Medusa               74,    Capt. Henrique de Souza Prego.
+
+Affonso d'Abuquerque 64,    Capt Ignacio da Costa Quinatella.
+                                 _The Queen and family in this ship._
+
+D. Joam de Castro    64,    Capt. Don Manoel Juan Sou�a.
+
+Principe do Brazil   74,    Capt. Gar�a[)o].
+
+Martim de Freitas    64,    Capt. Don Manoel Menezes.
+
+
+FRIGATES.
+
+Minerva              44,    Capt. Rodrigo Lobo.
+
+Golfinho             36,    Capt. Luiz d'Acunha.
+
+Urania               32,    Capt. Tancos, Conde de Viana.
+
+Cherua Princesa S.S. 20,    Commanded by a lieutenant.
+
+
+BRIGS.
+
+Voador               22,     Lieut. Fs. Maximilian.
+Vingan�a             20,     Capt. Nicolas Kytten.
+Gaivota              22.
+
+
+SCHOONER.
+
+Curiosa              12,     _Hoisted French colours and deserted._
+
+Of these vessels, the _Martin Freitas_ is now the _Pedro Primero_. The
+_Principe Real_ is the receiving ship at Rio. The _Rainha de Portugal_
+is at Lisbon, as well as the Conde Henrique. The _Medusa_ is the sheer
+hulk at Rio. The three other line-of-battle ships either broke up or
+about to be so. Of the frigates, the Minerva was taken by the French in
+India. The Golfinho is broken up, and the _Urania_ was wrecked on the
+Cape de Verde Islands. The Voador is now a corvette. The Vingan�a is
+broke up, and the Gaivoto is now the Liberal.
+
+_List of the Ships that remained at Lisbon._
+
+                  Guns.
+
+S. Sebastao        64,     _Unserviceable without thorough repair._
+Maria Prima        74,     _Ordered for floating battery--not fitted._
+Vasco de Gama      74,[21] _Under repair, nearly ready._
+Princesa de Beira  64,     _Ordered for floating battery._
+
+FRIGATES.
+
+Fenix              48,     _In need of thorough repair_ (broke up at Bahia).
+Aamazona           44,     _Do. Do._ (Do. at Lisbon).
+Perola             44,     _Do. Do._ (Do. at Lisbon).
+Tr�ta�             40,     _Past repair._
+Veney              30,     _Past repair._
+
+]
+
+[Note 21: Hulk at Rio.]
+
+Such are the public accounts transmitted by foreigners to their court of
+one of the most singular transactions that has occurred in the history
+of kingdoms and of courts. Yet such was the state of Europe at that
+time, so momentous the struggle between the principals in the mighty
+warfare that was going on, that the ancient house of Braganza left the
+seat of its ancestors, to seek shelter and security beyond the Atlantic,
+almost without notice and with less ceremony than had formerly attended
+an excursion to its country palaces.
+
+The French Government had waited to invade Portugal till that unhappy
+country had exhausted its treasury, in the payment of the enormous sums
+demanded as the price of its neutrality. French influence had removed
+the Portuguese troops from the mountain passes, where they might have
+opposed the entrance of French armies, and the Prince Regent only
+declared his adherence to the continental system, and arrested the
+English on the simultaneous entrance of three Imperial and Spanish
+armies.
+
+Junot invaded Algarve and passed the Zezere, at the same moment when
+Solano threw himself upon Oporto, and Carafa occupied Alentejo and
+Algarve.--Under these circumstances, the conduct of the ministry, though
+not courageous, was natural, and it was as natural when Lord Strangford
+returned to Lisbon, which, perhaps, he ought not to have left, that the
+last council held in that capital should decide on the emigration of the
+court to Brazil. Had it remained, and Portugal had become a French
+province, the Prince and all his family were prisoners in the hands of
+one who had respected no crown; and besides, England had intimated that
+in that case she must occupy Brazil for her own security. By emigrating
+to Brazil the Prince retained in his hands the largest and richest
+portion of his domains, and secured at least, the personal freedom and
+safety of his family. At the end therefore of the last meeting of his
+councillors the Prince called his confidential servants[22], and ordered
+them to prepare every thing _in secret_ for the embarkation of the court
+on the next night but one. One of these had been actually ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot, and on the next morning to have a breakfast
+ready for him at a house half-way between Sacavem and Lisbon. This man
+had smuggled his family on board one of the ships, he had been night and
+day getting provisions, plate, books, jewels, whatever could be moved on
+board the fleet, and, remaining to the last, was again ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot: but he was fortunate enough to secure a boat
+to carry him off to the fleet, leaving papers, money, and even his hat
+behind him on the beach.
+
+Such is the picture of the hasty embarkation, given by some of the
+attendants on the royal family.
+
+[Note 22: These were the Visconde de Rio Seco, who managed all; the
+Marquis de Vagos, gentleman of the bed-chamber; Conde de Redondo, who
+had the charge of the royal pantries; Manoel da Cunha, admiral of the
+fleet; the Padre Jos� Eloi, who had the care of the valuables belonging
+to the patriarchal church.]
+
+The fleets had no sooner got off the land than they encountered a
+violent gale of wind, but by the 5th of December they were all collected
+again; on that day Sir Sidney Smith having supplied the ships with every
+thing necessary for their safety, and having convoyed them to lat. 37�
+47' north, and long. 14� 17' west, left them to go on under the
+protection of the Marlborough, Capt. Moore, with a broad pennant, the
+London, Monarch and Bedford.[23] They proceeded without farther accident
+to the coast of Brazil, and landed at Bahia on the 21st of January,
+1808.[24]
+
+[Note 23: On the removal of the family of Braganza to Brazil, Sir
+Samuel Hood and General Beresford took possession of Madeira, in trust
+for Portugal, till a restoration should take place.]
+
+[Note 24: The Rainha de Portugal, and the Conde Henrique with the
+Princess Dowager and the younger Princesses arrived straight at Rio, on
+the 15th of January. The Martim de Freitas and Golfinho arrived on the
+15th at Bahia for supplies, sailed for Rio on the 24th, and arrived on
+the 30th.]
+
+The Conde da Ponte was at that time governor of Bahia, and is said to
+have been very popular[25]: he had married a lady of high family who was
+not less so, and she possessed, besides the manners of the court, a
+considerable portion of both beauty and talent.
+
+[Note 25: The Conde died in May, 1809, at the age of 35, leaving ten
+children, and an embarrassed estate.]
+
+The reception of the royal party was rendered so agreeable to the Prince
+by the governor and his lady, that he remained at St. Salvador's a
+month, every day being a festival, and then left it with regret. In
+commemoration of the visit, a spot was cleared near the fortress of St.
+Peter's, and commanding a fine view over the whole of the beautiful bay,
+and there an obelisk was erected with an inscription, stating its
+purpose, and the surrounding ground was planted and converted into a
+public garden.
+
+But, however agreeable a residence at Bahia might have been to His Royal
+Highness, the place is too insecure for the purposes for which he
+emigrated. If it is besieged by sea, and the smallest land force gets
+possession of the neck of land between the Cape and Rio Vermelha, it is
+actually without the means of subsistence. The entrance of the bay is so
+wide, that nothing, can prevent ships from going in when they please.
+Whereas, the harbour of Rio is easily defended, it not being possible
+for ships to enter without being exposed to the fire of the forts.
+Besides, it has resources which Bahia has not, being at all times able
+to communicate with the rich province of the Minas, which, besides the
+metals, abounds in corn, mandioc, cotton, coffee, cattle, hogs, and even
+the coarse manufactures such as cotton, &c., for the use of the slaves
+and for ordinary purposes.
+
+Rio was therefore the best adapted for the asylum of the illustrious
+house of Braganza, and, on the 26th February, His Royal Highness sailed
+from Bahia, and arrived in Rio de Janeiro on the 7th March.
+
+Meantime the French troops had occupied Portugal, and Junot, who
+commanded in chief, and had fixed his head-quarters at Lisbon, began by
+disarming the inhabitants, and war between France and Portugal was
+formally announced, eight days before the signature of the treaty of
+Fontainbleau, by which Portugal was divided into three great feoffs,
+which, under the King of Etruria, the Prince of Peace Godoy, and a
+Braganza, if he would submit to the conditions[26], were to be subject
+to the crown of Spain.
+
+[Note 26: Godoy was to have Alentejo and Algarve; Etruria, Entre
+Minho e Douro with the city of Oporto, the rest was to be sequestrated
+till a general peace, when a Braganza was to be placed at its head, on
+condition that England should restore Gibraltar, Trinidad, &c. to
+Spain.]
+
+Junot published a proclamation flattering the people in proportion to
+his oppressions and exactions, and nearly ruined them by a forced war
+contribution of nearly 3,000,000_l._--In addition to this a conscription
+of 40,000 men was raised, and thus the means which Portugal possessed,
+and which, if timely used, might have saved her from invasion were
+turned against her.
+
+The first ministry appointed on the arrival of the court at Rio,
+consisted of Don Rodriguez de Souza Continho, Don Juan d'Almeida, the
+Visconde d'Anadia, and the Marquez d'Aguiar.
+
+The first measure of the court was to publish a manifesto, setting forth
+the conduct of France towards Portugal, from the beginning of the
+revolution; the efforts of the government to preserve its neutrality;
+and detailing all the events which had led immediately to the emigration
+of the royal family. The manifesto also denied having, as the French
+government alleged, given any succours to the English fleet or troops in
+their expedition to the River Plate; and it states, that the French
+government having broken faith with that of Portugal, His Royal Highness
+considered himself at war with France, and declared that he could only
+make peace by consent of, and in conjunction with, his old and faithful
+ally the king of England; and this was all the direct interference of
+the Prince in the affairs of his ancient European kingdom, where a junta
+of five persons was appointed to govern, and where, before the end of
+the year (1808), the battle of Vimiera had been fought, and the
+convention of Cintra had been signed.
+
+The first sensible effect of the arrival of the royal family in Brazil
+was the opening of its numerous ports[27]; and in the very first year
+(1808) ninety foreign ships entered the single harbour of Rio, and a
+proportional number, those of Maranham, Pernambuco, and Bahia. The
+effect of the residence of the court was soon felt in the city of Rio de
+Janeiro. It was before 1808 confined to little more than the ground it
+occupied when attacked by Duguay Trouen in 1712; and the beautiful bays
+above and below it, formed by the harbour, were unoccupied, except by a
+few fishermen, while the swamps and morasses which surrounded it
+rendered it filthy in the extreme. A spot near the church of San
+Francisco de Paulo had been cleared for a square, but scarcely a dozen
+houses had risen round it, and a muddy pond filled up the centre, into
+which the negroes were in the habit of throwing all the impurities from
+the neighbourhood. This was now filled up. On one side of the square a
+theatre was begun, not inferior to those of Europe in size and
+accommodation, and placed under the patronage of St. John; several
+magnificent houses rose in the immediate neighbourhood, the square was
+finished, and another and much larger laid out beyond it, on one side of
+the city, while on the other, between the foot of the mountain of the
+Corcovado, with its surrounding hills, and the sea, every station was
+occupied by delightful country-houses, and the beautiful bay of Boto
+Fogo, where there were before only fishermen and gipsies, soon became a
+populous and wealthy suburb.
+
+[Note 27: 28th January, 1808.]
+
+It is not in my power to give a detailed account of all the transactions
+of this important year. The trade had naturally rapidly increased; the
+money brought by the emigrants from Portugal, had called forth greater
+exertions and speculations in commerce; and in October a public bank was
+chartered in Rio, with a capital of from seventy to eighty thousand
+pounds sterling.
+
+The establishment of a regular gazette naturally took place, for the
+speedier dissemination of whatever tidings might arrive from Portugal,
+where lay the possessions and the interest of the court and the new
+people of Brazil; and though the press, of course, did not boast of much
+freedom, nor indeed would its freedom at that time have been of any
+consequence, it formed the first step towards awakening rational
+curiosity and that desire for reading, which has become not only a
+luxury, but even a necessary, in some countries, and which makes a rapid
+and daily progress here.
+
+On the arrival of the court many of the old Creole families hastened to
+the capital to greet their sovereigns. The sons and the daughters of
+these married into the noble houses of Portugal; the union of the two
+nations became intimate and permanent; and the manners and habits of the
+Brazilians more polished. With the artificial wants that sprung up, new
+industry was excited, especially near the capital; the woods and hills
+were cleared, the desert islands of the bay became thriving farms,
+gardens sprung up every where, and the delicate table vegetables of
+Europe and Africa were added to the native riches of the soil and
+climate.
+
+The numbers of the royal family furnished birth-days for frequent galas,
+the foreigners vied with the Portuguese in their feasts, so that Rio
+presented a scene of almost continued festivity. On the 17th of
+December, the birth-day of the queen, six counts were created, that is,
+Luiz de Vasconcellos e Souza was made Conde de Figuerio, Don Rodrigo de
+Souza Continho, Conde de Linhares, the Visconde d'Anadia, Conde
+d'Anadia, D. Joao d'Almeida de Mello e Castro, Conde das Galveas, D.
+Fernando Jose de Portogal, Conde d'Aguiar, and D. Jose de Souza
+Continho, Conde de Redondo. The Papal Nuncio, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord
+Strangford[28], were honoured with the order of the Tower and Sword; six
+English officers were named commanders of the order of the Cross, and
+five others were made knights of the same.
+
+[Note 28: Sir Sydney Smith had followed the Portuguese court to Rio,
+less as commander of the British naval force in those seas, than as the
+protector of the Braganzas. Lord Strangford had resumed his character of
+ambassador.]
+
+The beginning of 1809 was marked by an event of some importance. By the
+treaty of Amiens, Portuguese Guiana had been given up to France, and was
+now, together with French Guyana and Cayenne, governed by the infamous
+Victor Hughes. It was long since France had been able to send out
+succour to these colonies. The fleets of England impeded the navigation,
+and the demands at home were too urgent and too great to permit much to
+be hazarded for the sake of such a distant possession. The court of Rio,
+therefore, resolved to send a body of troops under Colonel Manoel
+Marquez, to the mouth of the Oyapok. The English ship of war, Confiance,
+commanded by Captain Yeo, accompanied him, and their combined attack
+forced the enemy to surrender on the 12th of January. The terms were
+honourable to both parties: and among the articles I observe the 14th,
+by which it is stipulated, that the botanic garden, called the
+Gabrielle, shall not only be spared, but kept up in the state of
+perfection in which it was given up. War is so horrible, that a trait
+like this, in the midst of its evils, is too pleasing to be overlooked.
+
+The rest of the year passed in Brazil in quiet though important
+operations; many roads were opened through the still wild country in the
+interior; a naval academy was instituted; a school of anatomy was
+founded in the naval and military hospital; and the vaccine
+establishment formed in Brazil in 1804 having declined, it was renewed
+both at Bahia and Rio, and immense numbers of persons of all colours
+were vaccinated.
+
+Meanwhile the Portuguese arms were employed in another quarter of the
+world. The extensive dominions of Portugal in the east had fallen off
+one by one, as pearls from a broken thread. Yet Macao was still
+Portuguese. For twenty years past, it, in common with the coast of
+China, had been plagued with the pirates of the Yellow Sea; till, at
+length, the Chinese government found it necessary to take measures for
+suppressing them, and therefore made a treaty with the Portuguese
+government of Macao, signed by the following personages, on the 23d of
+November.
+
+    MIGUEL DE ARRIGA, Judge.
+    BRUN DA SILVA.
+    JOSE JOAQUIN BARROS, General.
+    SHIN KEI CHI.
+    CHES.
+    POM.
+
+The Portuguese were by this treaty to furnish six vessels of from
+sixteen to twenty-six guns, but being in want of ball and other stores
+they were supplied liberally by the English East India Company's
+factory; and the result was, that after three months' resistance, the
+pirates surrendered their ships, and promised to become peaceable
+subjects, and the people of Macao performed a Te Deum in honour of their
+success; but twelve months elapsed ere the happy tidings reached Brazil.
+
+The great European interests of Brazil and its sovereign might have been
+forgotten in the country itself, during the year 1810, so tranquil was
+it, but for the packets which brought across the Atlantic the details of
+those desperate battles, which the strength and the treasure of England
+were waging in defence of them in the Peninsula. On the 19th of
+February, Lord Strangford and the Conde de Linhares, in behalf of their
+respective governments, signed a commercial treaty at Rio, by which
+great and reciprocal advantages were obtained, and the English were
+allowed the free exercise of their own form of worship, provided they
+built no steeples to their churches, and that they used no bells.
+
+This was followed in the month of May by a formal notice from Lord
+Strangford, that the British Parliament had voted 980,000_l._ for the
+carrying on of the war in Portugal. In fact, England had now taken the
+battle into her own hands, as she had decidedly the greatest interest in
+opposing France; and the royal house of Braganza was at leisure to
+devote its whole attention to its American dominions. Several well
+appointed detachments were sent into different parts of the country for
+the purpose of repelling the Indians, whose inroads had destroyed
+several of the Portuguese settlements, of forming roads to connect the
+different provinces with each other, and, above all, of furthering the
+gradual civilisation of the Indian tribes. Strict orders were given the
+commanders to proceed peaceably, especially among the friendly Indians;
+but such as were refractory were to be pursued even to extermination. To
+further the views with which these expeditions had been formed, a
+proclamation was issued in the month of September, holding out to such
+as should become proprietors and reclaimers of land in the province of
+the Minas Geraes and on the banks of the Rio Doce, all the advantages of
+original donatories and lords paramount; and promising that every
+settlement that should contain twelve huts of reclaimed Indians, and ten
+houses of white persons, should be erected into a villa, with all its
+privileges. The party that was sent up the Rio Doce discovered one
+hundred and forty-four farms that had been ruined by the Indians, and
+which they restored: they formed a friendly treaty with several tribes
+of Puri Indians, whom they found already settled in villages, to the
+number of nearly a thousand. These people were gentle, and not without
+some of the arts and habits of industry; but they were heathens and
+polygamists; not that a plurality of wives was general, or even common,
+for there were only one hundred and thirteen wives to ninety four
+husbands. They do not appear to have been cannibals, though it is
+strongly asserted that the neighbouring Botecudos were so, and that
+having gained a slight advantage over the Portuguese, they had eaten
+four of them who fell into their hands.[29] I confess I am sceptical
+about these anthropophagi. That savages may eat their enemies taken in
+battle I do not doubt; under the circumstances of savage life revenge
+and retaliation are sweet: but I doubt their eating the dead found after
+the battle, and I doubt their hunting men, or devouring women and
+children. With the latter atrocities, indeed, they have not been charged
+in modern times; and as at the period the missionaries wrote the first
+histories of them, it was politic to exaggerate the difficulties these
+useful men had to encounter, in order to enhance their services, it is
+not uncharitable to believe that much exaggeration crept into the
+accounts of the savages, especially if we recollect the miracles
+ascribed in those very accounts to many of the missionaries themselves.
+Besides these measures concerning the Indians, other steps were taken
+for the good of the country of no less importance; several colonies,
+both of Europeans, and of islanders from the A�ores, were invited and
+encouraged. The fisheries off the coast were attended to, and
+particularly that of the island of St. Catherine; and on the same island
+sufficient experiments were made upon the growth of hemp, to prove that
+time and industry only were wanting to furnish great quantities of that
+valuable article of a very good quality.
+
+[Note 29: I have in my possession a curious drawing, found in a
+Botecudo cottage, and done by one of the Creole Brazilians, of mixed
+breed, who shows himself hidden in a cave, his white companions dead,
+and they, as well as the soldiers of the black regiment who accompanied
+them, have the flesh stripped from the bones, excepting the head, hands,
+and feet. The Botecudos are represented as carrying off this flesh in
+baskets. These savages appear quite naked, having their mouth pieces,
+and being armed with bows and arrows.]
+
+The year 1811 was the last of the life and ministry of the Conde de
+Linhares, whose views were all directed to the good of the country.
+Fully aware not only of its richness and fertility, he also perceived
+how poor and how backward it was, considering its natural advantages.
+In endeavouring to remedy the evils, he perhaps aimed at doing more than
+was possible in the short time, and under the circumstances, in which
+his active disposition could operate. He had formed roads and planned
+canals; he had invited colonies, which indeed afterwards sunk; but they
+left behind them some of their ingenious practice, and some seeds of
+improvement which have not utterly perished. The possibility of
+navigating both the St Matthew's river and the Gequetinhonha had been
+ascertained; experiments in every kind of cultivation had been made;
+even the tea had been introduced from China. A botanical garden had been
+formed, in which the spices of the East were cultivated with success;
+and perhaps as the greatest possible good, a public library had been
+formed, and its regulations framed on the most liberal principles.
+
+Towards the end of 1811 a royal decree was issued, assigning 120,000
+crusadoes per annum to be taken from the customs of Bahia, Pernambuco,
+and Maranham, for forty years, to the Portuguese, who had suffered
+during the French war; a measure regarded even then with jealousy by the
+northern captaincies. But they all continued tranquil for the present,
+and seemed to attend only to domestic improvement. New buildings, both
+for use and ornament, arose in the cities. Maranham and Pernambuco
+improved their harbours. Bahia, besides the handsome theatre opened
+there in 1812, paved her streets; and at Rio, a subscription of 30,000
+crusadoes was raised towards beautifying the palace square, completing
+the public gardens, and draining the campo de Sta. Anna.
+
+In 1813, some disputes arose between the court of Rio and England on
+account of the slave trade. Three ships had been captured by the British
+squadron off the coast of Africa, while certainly engaged in illegal
+_slaving_; remonstrances were made, and the matter continued suspended
+until after the congress of Vienna, when that illustrious meeting,
+though most of its highest and most powerful members had exclaimed
+loudly against the villanous practice, suffered it to be carried on.
+Then indeed England consented to pay 13,000_l._ to indemnify the
+Portuguese slave traders for their loss (July, 1815)!
+
+In the same year there appears to have been some discontent manifested,
+or suspected in the provinces. Many of the salaries of officers, both
+civil and military, remained unpaid; yet there were exactions, the more
+grievous, because they were irregular, in every department; the
+administration of justice was notoriously corrupt; the clergy had fallen
+into disorder and disrepute; and though much that was useful had been
+done, yet that was forgotten, especially in the distant provinces, and
+such a portion of discontent existed, that various officers who had come
+to Rio either on private business or to remonstrate on public wrongs,
+were peremptorily ordered to return to their own provinces.
+
+It was wisely done at this juncture, to take off the public attention
+from such vexations by a measure at once just and gratifying to the
+pride of the Brazilians: by an edict of the 16th of December, 1815,
+Brazil was raised to the dignity of a kingdom, and the style and title
+altered so as to place it on an equal footing with Portugal. For some
+months addresses of thanks and congratulation poured in to the king from
+various provinces, and the feasts and rejoicings on that happy occasion
+occupied the people to the exclusion of all other considerations.
+
+Meantime the victories of the allies in Europe, having caused the exile
+of Napoleon to Elba, the necessity for an English guardian squadron at
+Rio had ceased; and accordingly the British establishment was broken up,
+and the stores sold, and the family of Braganza, again independent of
+foreign aid, began to renew its connections with the other courts of
+Europe.
+
+These negotiations suffered some little interruption from an event which
+had long been expected, namely, the death of the queen, on the 20th of
+March, 1816, whose state, both of body and mind, had long precluded her
+from all share in public affairs. She was buried with great pomp in the
+church of the convent of the Ajuda; and, as is usual, dirges were sung
+for her in all the churches in the kingdom.
+
+In the month of June, the Marquis Marialva was received at Paris as
+ambassador of Portugal and Brazil, and shortly afterwards the way having
+been prepared by an inferior minister, he went to Vienna, to negotiate a
+marriage between Don Pedro de Alcantara, Prince of Portugal and Brazil,
+and the Archduchess Maria Leopoldina, which was happily effected. On the
+28th of November, she was privately contracted at Vienna to the prince.
+On the 17th of February following, the contract was made public, and on
+the 13th of May she was married by proxy, the Marquis Marialva standing
+for Don Pedro; but it was not until the 11th of November that she
+arrived at Rio. The line of battle ship Joam VI. had been sent along
+with two frigates for her to Trieste, the voyage was performed without
+accident, and the person the most important to the hopes and happiness
+of Brazil, was welcomed with enthusiasm by all classes of people.
+
+In the autumn preceding, two of the Infantas of Portugal had been
+married to Ferdinand the 7th of Spain, and his brother the Infant Don
+Carlos.
+
+But the frontier of Brazil to the southward now began to feel the effect
+of those disturbances which had long agitated Spanish South America. The
+chief Artigas showed a disposition to encroach on the Portuguese line,
+and, therefore, a corps of volunteers had been formed for the purposes
+of observation, and the Porte da Santa Theresa had been occupied in
+order to check the motions of that active leader: during the autumn of
+1816, several skirmishes took place, but the arts of negotiation as well
+as of war were resorted to, and on the 19th of January, 1817, the keys
+of Montevideo were delivered up to the Portuguese general Lecor, by
+which the long-wished-for command of the eastern bank of the Plata was
+obtained.
+
+Meantime the discontents in the northern provinces had broken out into
+open insurrection, in the captaincy of Pernambuco. The people of
+Recife, and its immediate neighbourhood, had imbibed some of the notions
+of democratical government from their former masters the Dutch. They
+remembered besides, that their own exertions, without any assistance
+from the government, had driven out those masters, and had restored to
+the crown the northern part of its richest domain. They were, therefore,
+disposed to be particularly jealous of the provinces of the south,
+especially of Rio, which they considered as more favoured than
+themselves, and they were disgusted at the payments of taxes and
+contributions, by which they never profited, and which only served to
+enrich the creatures of the court, while great abuses existed,
+especially in the judicial part of the government, which they despaired
+of ever seeing redressed. Such were the exciting causes of the
+insurrection of 1817, in Pernambuco, which threatened for many months
+the peace, if not the safety of Brazil. The example of the Spanish
+Americans had no doubt its weight, and a regular plan for obtaining
+independence was formed, troops were raised and disciplined, and Recife
+being secured, fortifications were begun at Alagoas and at Penedo.
+
+The insurgents, however, had probably miscalculated the degree of
+concurrence or assistance they should meet with from their neighbours.
+The people of Serinhaem as soon as the insurrection was known, namely
+the middle of April, posted themselves on the Rio Formosa as a check on
+that quarter, and the king's troops under Lacerda, marched immediately
+from Bahia. The Pernambucan leader Victoriano, having attacked the Villa
+de Pedras, received a decided check from a body of royalists, under
+Major Gordilho, who had been sent forward by Lacerda, on the 21st: and
+by the 29th Gordilho had occupied that post, as well as Tamandr�, where
+he was not long afterwards joined by Colonel Mello, with a strong
+reinforcement.
+
+Meantime the Pernambucan chief, Domingos Jose Martins, was actively
+employed in collecting troops, and forming guerilla parties, in order to
+harass the marches of the enemy. These parties were headed by
+Cavalcante, a man of wealth and family, aided by a priest, Souto, a
+bold and enterprising man, who was far from being the only
+ecclesiastical partisan. On the 2d of May, a vigorous attack was made on
+Serinhaem, by the famous Pernambucan division of the south, which had
+hitherto received no check; but the assailants were repulsed with the
+loss of their artillery and baggage, and a column under Martins coming
+up met with the same fate, on which he drew off his people with those of
+the south, to the ingenio of Trapiche. On the 6th of May they left that
+position, and meeting the royalists under Mello, suffered a complete
+defeat. Their chiefs were either killed or taken; and of the latter some
+were exiled, others imprisoned, and three, Jose Luiz Mendon�a, Domingos
+Jose Martins, and the priest, Miguel Joaquim de Alameida, were hanged in
+Bahia.
+
+At this juncture Luiz do Rego Barreto was appointed by the government at
+Rio to the office of captain-general of Pernambuco. He was a native of
+Portugal, and had served with distinction under Lord Wellington. Of a
+firm and vigorous mind, and jealous of the honour of a soldier, he was
+perhaps too little yielding to the people and the temper of the times.
+The severe military punishments inflicted on this occasion certainly
+produced irritation, which though it did not break out immediately, was
+the cause of much evil afterwards, and brought an odium upon that
+gallant soldier himself, from which his high character in other
+situations could not shield him.
+
+This year the ministry underwent a complete change. The Marquis
+d'Aguiar, who had succeeded to the Conde de Linhares, died in January,
+and the Conde da Barca in June; when the Conde de Palmela became prime
+minister, Bezerra became president of the treasury, the Conde dos Arcos
+secretary for transmarine and naval affairs, the Conde de Funchal
+counsellor of state, and Don Tomas Antonio de Portogal secretary to the
+house of Braganza.
+
+I cannot pretend to speak of the character or measures of these or any
+other Portuguese or Brazilian ministers. My opportunities of information
+were too few; my habits as a woman and a foreigner never led me into
+situations where I could acquire the necessary knowledge. I wish only to
+mark the course of events, and in as far as they are linked with each
+other, the causes of those effects which took place under my own eyes.
+
+In the early part of 1818, some additional restrictions concerning the
+slave trade, which had been agreed to by Conde de Palmela during the
+last year at London, were published at Rio, and a commission of English
+and Portuguese jointly was formed for the examining into and deciding on
+causes arising out of the treaties on that most important subject, a
+certain number of commissioners being appointed to reside in the
+different ports in Africa and Brazil, where the trade was still
+considered lawful. That year opened at Rio with unusual festivity. On
+the 22d of January, a great bull-feast was given at San Christovam, the
+royal country house, in honour of the young princess's birth-day; it was
+followed by a military dance, in which the costume of the natives of
+every part of the Portuguese dominions in the east and west were
+displayed. Portugal and Algarve, Africa and India, China and Brazil, all
+appeared to do homage to the illustrious stranger. Music, in which the
+taste of the king was unrivalled, formed a great part of the
+entertainment, and never perhaps had Brazil witnessed so magnificent a
+festival.
+
+On the 6th of February the coronation of his majesty, John VI., took
+place, and these peaceful festivities gave a character to the year,
+which was remarkably quiet, the only public acts of note being the
+farther prosecution of the plans for civilising the interior, by
+facilitating the communications from place to place, and reclaiming the
+border tribes of Indians.
+
+The following year was not less tranquil. The birth of the young
+princess, Donna Maria da Gloria, was an event to gratify both the court
+and the people of Brazil. They had now the heir of their kingdom born
+among them, a circumstance which they were disposed to hail as a pledge
+that the seat of government would not be removed from among them.
+
+The early part of 1820 was disturbed by some irruptions of the Spanish
+Americans under Artigas, on the eastern side of the Plata. The
+Portuguese troops, however, soon repulsed him, and strengthened their
+line by the occupation of Taquarembo, Simar, and the Arroyo Grande.
+
+Meantime the peace in Europe had not brought back all the tranquillity
+that was expected from it. In vain did the old governments expect to step
+back into exactly the same places they had occupied before the
+revolutionary war. The Cortes had assembled in Spain. Naples had been
+convulsed by an attempt to obtain a constitution similar to that
+promulgated by the Spanish Cortes; and now Portugal began to feel the
+universal impulse. Lisbon and Oporto were both the seats of juntas of
+provisional government, and both assembled Cortes to take into
+consideration the framing of a new constitution, and the reformation of
+ancient abuses. On the 21st of August the Cortes of Lisbon had sworn to
+adopt in part the constitution of the Spanish Cortes, but it was not
+until the month of November that the government of Brazil made public
+the recent occurrences in the mother country. Indeed it was not to be
+expected that Brazil should remain unconscious of the proceedings of
+Europe. The provinces were all more or less agitated. Pernambuco was as
+usual foremost in feeling, and in the expression of feeling. A
+considerable party had assembled at about thirty-six leagues from
+Olinda. They declared their grievances to be intolerable, and that
+nothing but a total reform in the government should reconcile them to
+longer subjection to the government of Rio. The royalist troops were
+sent out against them and were victorious, after an action of six hours,
+in which they lost six officers and 19 men killed, and 134 wounded. The
+loss on the other side was much greater, and as usual severe military
+executions increased the evils of the civil war, at the same time that
+they farther exasperated the people, and prepared them for a future and
+more obstinate resistance.
+
+Bahia was far from tranquil. The old jealousy which had subsisted from
+the time the seat of government had been transferred from the city of
+St. Salvador to Rio, combined with other causes, tended to increase the
+desire of a constitutional government, from which all good was to be
+expected, and under which, it was hoped, that all abuses would be
+reformed. Rio itself began to manifest the same feelings. The provinces
+of St. Paul's and the Minas were always ready to unite in any cause that
+promised an increase of freedom; and the whole country seemed on the
+brink of revolution, if not civil war.
+
+The court party, however, still flattered themselves that the
+determination of the King to remain in Brazil, instead of returning to
+Lisbon to put himself into the power of the Cortes, would be so grateful
+to the Brazilians, that they would be contented to forego the probable
+advantages of a constitution, for the sake of the positive good of
+having the seat of government fixed among themselves. But it was too
+late; the wish for improvement had been excited. The administration had
+been too corrupt, the exactions too heavy to be longer borne, when
+reform appeared to be within reach. The very soldiers became possessed
+with the same spirit, and though highly repugnant to the King's
+feelings, it soon became evident that a compliance with the wishes of
+the people and with the constituton, as declared by the Cortes at
+Lisbon, was inevitable.
+
+It is said, that some of the wisest ministers hail long pressed His
+Majesty to a compliance with the wishes of his people, but in vain. His
+reluctance was unconquerable, until at length, perceiving that force
+would certainly be resorted to, he adopted a half measure which probably
+accelerated the very event he was anxious to avoid.[30] On the 18th of
+February, 1821, the King accepted as a junta, to take into consideration
+such parts of the constitution as might be applicable to the state of
+Brazil, the following persons:--
+
+[Note 30: Some have imagined that a paper published at Rio, written
+by a Frenchman, and supposed to have been in the pay of the then
+ministry, desirous of keeping the king in Brazil, had great effect on
+the subsequent events; and that greater still had been produced by the
+revolution of the 10th of February, at Bahia; but the motives of action
+were the same in all Brazil; the event must have been the same at Rio,
+whether Bahia had stirred or not, though, perhaps, it might be
+accelerated by that circumstance.]
+
+Marquez de Altegrete--_President_
+Baron de St. Amaro.
+Luiz Jos� de Carvalho Mello.
+Antonio Liuz Pereiro da Cunha.
+Antonio Rodriguez Velloso dc Oliviera.
+Joa[)o] Severiano Maciel da Costa.
+Camillo Maria Tonelet
+Joa[)o] dc Souza de Mendon�a Costa Real.
+Jos� da Silva Lisboa.
+Mariano Jos� Pereira da Fonseca.
+Jav[)o] Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida.
+Francisco Xavier Pires.
+Jos� Caetano Gomez.
+
+
+_Procurador da Casa._
+
+Jos� de Oliviera Botelho Pinto Masquiera.
+
+
+_Secretarios._
+
+Manoel Jacinto Noguerra de Gama.
+Manoel Moreira de Figueiredo.
+
+
+_Secretaries Sustituti._
+
+O Coronel Francisco Saraiva da Costa Refoios.
+O Desembargador Joa[)o] Jos� dc Mendonza.
+
+These persons were all anxious to retain the King in Brazil. Most of
+them Brazilians, they had felt the advantage of having the seat of
+government fixed among themselves, and though the King's foreign allies
+and his Portuguese subjects had pressed him to return to Europe, his own
+dread of the Cortes of Lisbon, together with their natural desire to
+detain him in Brazil, produced on the 21st a manifesto, describing His
+Majesty's affection and relianceon his Brazilian subjects, and stating,
+that he was resolved to send the Prince Don Pedro to Lisbon, with full
+powers to treat on his behalf with the Cortes, whom he seems to have
+considered as subjects in rebellion.
+
+The Prince was also to consult with the Cortes concerning the drawing up
+of a constitution, and the King promised to adopt such parts of it as
+might be found applicable to existing circumstances and to the peculiar
+situation of Brazil. This manifesto appears to have produced an effect
+very different from what was intended. At four o'clock in the morning of
+the 26th, all the streets and squares of the city were found full of
+troops. Six pieces of artillery were planted at the heads of the
+principal streets, and the most lively sensation agitated every part of
+the city of Rio. As soon as this circumstance could be known at San
+Christova[)o], the Prince Don Pedro, and the Infant Don Miguel, came into
+the city. The Camara[31] was assembled in the great saloon of the
+theatre.[32] The Prince, after conferring for a short time with the
+members of that body, appeared upon the balcony of the saloon, and read
+to the people and the troops, a royal proclamation, antedated the 24th,
+securing to them the Constitution, such as it should be framed by the
+Cortes of Lisbon. This was received with loud cries of Viva el Rei, Viva
+a Religia[)o], Viva a constituica[)o]. The Prince then returned to the saloon,
+and ordered the secretary of the Camara to draw up the form of the oath
+to be taken to observe the constitution, and also a list of a new
+ministry, to be submitted to the people for their approbation. The list
+of ministers was first read, and each individually approved.[33]
+
+[Note 31: The whole municipal body.]
+
+[Note 32: The square in front of the theatre, from its size and
+situation, was most fit for the assembly of the people and troops on such
+an occasion.]
+
+[Note 33:
+
+_New Ministers._
+
+Vice-admiral and Commander-in-chief Quintella, secretary of state.
+Joaquin Jose Monteiro Torres,
+  minister of marine, and secretary for transmarine affairs.
+Silvestre Pinhero Fereiro, secretary for foreign affairs.
+Conde de Lou�a, head of the treasury.
+Bishop of Rio, president of the board of conscience.
+Antonio Luiz Pereiro da Cunha, head of police.
+Jos� Gaetano Gomes, grand treasurer.
+Joao Fereiro da Costa Sampaio, second treasurer.
+Sebastian Luiz Terioco, fiscal.
+Jos� da Silva Lisboa, literary department.
+Joao Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida, director of the bank.
+----Barboza, police.
+Conde de Aseca, head of the board of trade.
+Brigadier Carlos Frederico da Cunha, commander-in-chief, &c.
+
+]
+
+His Royal Highness then proceeded to take the oath for his father, in
+the following form:--
+
+"I swear, in the name of the King, my father and lord, veneration and
+respect for our holy religion; to observe, keep, and maintain for ever
+the constitution such as established by the cortes in Portugal." The
+bishop then presented to him the holy Gospels, on which he laid his
+right hand, and solemnly vowed, promised, and signed the same.
+
+The Prince then took the oath in like manner for himself, and was
+immediately followed by his brother, the Infant Don Miguel, after whom
+the ministers and a multitude of other persons crowded to follow his
+example. Meantime the Prince rode to the King at his country seat of Boa
+Vista, at San Cristova�, to inform him of all that had passed, and to
+entreat his presence in the city, as the best means of securing order
+and confidence. His Majesty accordingly set off immediately, and arrived
+at the great square at about eleven o'clock, when the people took the
+horses from his carriage and dragged him to the palace, the troops
+following as on a day of gala, and forming in the square before the
+doors. At one of the centre windows the King presently appeared, and
+confirmed all that the Prince had promised in his name, declaring at the
+same time his perfect approbation of every thing that had been done. The
+troops then dispersed, and the King held a court, which was most
+numerously attended; and the day ended at the opera, the people again
+assembling to drag the King's carriage thither.
+
+It would be curious to investigate the feelings of princes on occasions
+so momentous to themselves and to their people. Joam VI., passionately
+fond of music, was dragged by a people, grateful for a boon granted that
+very day, to a theatre built by himself, where all the music vocal and
+instrumental was selected with exquisite taste, and where the piece
+presented was a decided favourite.[34] Yet it may be questioned whether
+there existed in his wide dominions one heart less at ease than his
+own. All his feelings and prejudices were in favour of the ancient order
+of things, and this day those feelings and prejudices had been obliged
+to bend to the spirit of the times, to a wide-spread desire for freedom,
+to every thing, in short, most contrary to the ancient system of
+continental Europe.
+
+[Note 34: Rossini's Cenerentola.]
+
+The next day[35], there was nothing but joy in the city, the great
+saloon was again crowded with persons eager to sign the oath to the
+constitution, illuminations, feux de joie, and fireworks succeeded; and
+at the opera, Puccito's Henrique IV. was ordered in compliment to the
+King. But he was too much fatigued with the events of the last two days
+to go, and when the curtain of the royal box was drawn up, the pictures
+only of the king and queen appeared; but they were received with loud
+acclamations, as if the royal personages themselves had been present.
+
+[Note 35: The 27th, on which day Messrs. Thornton, Grimaldi, and
+Maler, ministers from England and France, waited on His Majesty. The
+different motions or interferences of the members of the diplomatic body
+scarcely concern this period. There is no doubt but that they were busy.
+But circumstances which they could not control, though they might
+disturb, brought about the revolution of the 26th, the visible facts
+alone of which I pretend to give.]
+
+Thus was a most important revolution brought about without bloodshed,
+and almost without disturbance. The junta occupied itself seriously on
+the business of the constitution, and began by publishing some edicts
+highly favourable to the people, and, among others, one insuring the
+liberty of the press.
+
+Meantime Bahia, actuated by the same spirit as Rio, had anticipated the
+revolution at that place. On the 10th of February the troops and people
+assembled in the city, the magistrates were called on to take an oath to
+adhere to the constitution, a provisional government was formed, and
+troops were raised in order to maintain the constitution, in case the
+court at Rio should be adverse to its adoption. Among these the most
+forward was a small body of artillery, formed of the students at the
+different colleges and schools of the city. The new government early
+began to manifest a determination to be no longer subordinate to Rio,
+and to acknowledge no other authority than that of the Cortes at
+Lisbon. An intimation of what had taken place at Bahia was immediately
+forwarded to Luiz do Rego at Pernambuco, who assembled the magistrates,
+the troops, and the people, on the 3d of March, in Recife, and there,
+along with them, solemnly took the oath to adhere to the constitution; a
+measure which gave universal satisfaction. About the same time, several
+of the towns in the Comarca of Ilheos also took the oaths to maintain
+the constitution; and it appeared evidently that the whole country was
+equally desirous of a change, in hopes of relief from the vexations it
+had so long suffered under.
+
+But the agitation of the capital was by no means at an end. Disputes
+arose concerning the election of deputies to the cortes, which, however,
+ended in adopting the method laid down in the Spanish constitution. The
+troops found it necessary to publish a declaration, denying that they
+had any factious views when they assembled on the 26th of February, and
+alleging that they appeared as citizens anxious for the rights of the
+whole community. The people assembled in different places, and are said
+to have insulted several persons, particularly the members of the
+council which existed immediately before the revolution; and in order to
+save three of them from the fury of the mob, they were placed in
+confinement for three days, and then liberated, with a proclamation
+tending to exculpate them from all criminal charges, and explaining the
+motives of their arrest.
+
+The King meanwhile had resolved on returning to Lisbon, and on the 7th
+of March he published a proclamation announcing his resolution, together
+with an order for such deputies as should be elected by the time of his
+departure, to go with him to attend the Cortes, and promising to find
+means of conveying the rest when they should be ready.
+
+Every thing now appeared to proceed in quiet. The preparations for His
+Majesty's departure went on, and he resolved to take the opportunity of
+the assembling of the electors on the 21st of April, to choose the
+deputies to the Cortes, to submit to them the plan for the government of
+Brazil which he had laid down, in order to receive their sanction.
+These electors were assembled in the exchange, a handsome new building
+on the shore, and thither a great concourse of people had flocked, some
+purely from curiosity, some from a desire, imagining they had a right,
+to express their opinion on so important a subject. The result of that
+meeting was a deputation sent to the king, insisting on the adoption of
+the entire Spanish constitution. The decree of the assembly received the
+signature of the King. But the members of that assembly met again on the
+22d, many of whom had no legal title to be present, and proceeded to
+propose to stop the ships prepared for the King's return to Portugal.
+Some went so far as to propose an examination of the vessels, in order
+to stop the exportation of the quantity of wealth known to be on board
+of them, and the meeting at length assumed so alarming an aspect, that
+His Majesty revoked his royal consent to the act passed on the 21st, and
+sent a body of soldiers to intimidate the assembly. Unhappily, an order
+proceeding from some quarter, never known or never acknowledged, caused
+the soldiers to fire into the exchange, where the unarmed and innocent
+electors, as well as the others who had crowded thither, it might be,
+with less pure motives, were assembled, but all were there on the faith
+of the royal invitation given through the judge of the district.
+
+About thirty persons were killed, many more were wounded: and the whole
+city was filled with an indescribable consternation. The sudden stop
+that was put to this strange, unwise and cruel attack, has always been
+attributed to the Prince Don Pedro, who, on this as on other occasions,
+has well merited the title of perpetual defender of Brazil. The attack
+itself, perhaps unjustly, was imputed to the Conde dos Arcos by some, to
+other individuals by others, according as passion or party directed the
+suspicion: the truth is, that it seems to have been the result of
+ill-understood orders, given hastily in a moment of alarm, for it is
+impossible to think, for an instant, that any man could wantonly have so
+cruelly irritated the people at the very time when so much depended on
+their tranquillity. This shocking event, however, seems to have
+quickened the King's resolution to leave Brazil. That very day he made
+over the government of that country to the Prince, with a council to be
+composed of
+
+    The Conde dos Arcos, Prime Minister.
+    Conda da Lou�a, Minister of Interior.
+    Brigadier Caula, Minister of War.
+
+And in case of the prince's death, the regency to remain in the hands of
+the Princess Maria Leopoldina.
+
+The next day the King publicly addressed the troops, recommending to
+them fidelity to the crown and constitution, and obedience to the Prince
+Regent, and as a royal boon on leaving the army, promising a great
+increase of pay to all, and that the Brazilian officers should be put on
+the same footing as those of the Portuguese army. The ministers who
+advised this step, acted cruelly towards the government they left
+behind. The treasury was left empty at the King's departure, yet
+increase of pay beyond all precedent was promised, as well as other
+burdens on the prince's revenue. His Majesty published on the same day,
+a farewell to the inhabitants of Rio; and it cannot be imagined that he
+could leave the place which to him had been a haven of safety, during
+the storm in which most of his brother monarchs had suffered, without
+feelings of regret, if not affection.
+
+The Prince also addressed the Brazilians on assuming the government by a
+proclamation, which, as it sets forth his intentions, I shall give
+literally:
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil;
+
+"The necessity of paying attention to the general interests of the
+nation before every other, forces my august father to leave you, and to
+intrust me with the care of the public happiness of Brazil, until
+Portugal shall form a constitution, and confirm it.
+
+"And, as I judge it right, in the present circumstances, that all should
+from this time understand what are the objects of public administration
+which I have principally in view, I lose no time in declaring, that
+strict respect for the laws, constant vigilance over the administration
+of the same, opposition to the quibbles by which they are discredited
+and weakened, will be the objects of my first attention.
+
+"It will be highly agreeable to me to anticipate all such benefits of
+the constitution as shall be compatible with obedience to the laws.
+
+"Public education, which now demands the most especial attention of the
+government, will be provided for by every means in my power.
+
+"And in order that the commerce and agriculture of Brazil may be in a
+prosperous state, I shall not cease to encourage whatever may favour
+these copious sources of national riches.
+
+"I shall pay equal attention to the interesting subject of reform,
+without which it will be impossible to use liberal means for the public
+good.
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil! all these intentions will be frustrated if
+certain evil-minded persons should accomplish their fatal views, and
+persuade you to adopt antisocial principles, destructive of all order,
+and diametrically opposed to the system of liberality, which from this
+moment it is my intention to follow."
+
+The ceremonies of taking leave, occupied the following day. On the 24th,
+the royal family embarked, and with it many of the Portuguese nobles who
+had followed their king into exile, and many others whose fortunes were
+entirely attached to the court.
+
+But this great re-emigration produced evils of no common magnitude in
+Brazil. It is computed that fifty millions of crusadoes, at least, were
+carried out of the country by the Portuguese returning to Lisbon. A
+great proportion of specie had been taken up in exchange for government
+bills on the treasuries of Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranham. But these
+provinces, from the revolution in February, had disclaimed the
+superiority of the government at Rio, and had owned no other than that
+of the Cortes at Lisbon, and above all the ministry well knew, even at
+the time of granting the bills, that they had refused to remit any
+portion of the revenue to Rio. Hence arose commercial distress of every
+description, and as long-standing government debts had been also paid by
+these bills which were all dishonoured, the evil spread far and wide,
+not only among the natives but the foreign merchants. It was of little
+avail that the Prince acknowledged the debts[36]; the treasury was left
+so poor, that he was obliged to delay or modify the increase of military
+pay promised on the King's departure, a circumstance that occasioned
+much disquiet in several provinces. The funds for carrying on several
+branches of industry, and several works of public utility were destroyed
+by this great and sudden drain; and thereby much that had been begun
+after the arrival of the court, and which it was hoped would have been
+of the greatest benefit to the country, was stopped. Colonies that had
+been invited to settle with the most liberal promises perished for want
+of the necessary support in the beginning of their career, and the
+wonder is, not that disturbances in various quarters took place after
+the departure of the King, but that they were not of a more fierce and
+fatal tendency.
+
+[Note 36: It was of little avail at the time. But as soon as it was
+possible, his royal highness's government began payments by instalments,
+which are still going on, notwithstanding the total change of
+government. This is highly honourable.]
+
+The Prince who remained at the head of the government was deservedly
+popular among the Brazilians. His first care was to examine into and
+redress causes of grievances; particularly those arising from arbitrary
+imprisonment and vexatious methods of collecting taxes. The great duties
+on salt conveyed into the interior, were remitted. Something was done
+towards improving the condition of the barracks, hospitals, and schools.
+Books were allowed to be imported duty free, and every thing that could
+be effected under the circumstances, was done by the Prince for the
+advantage of the people, and to preserve or promote public tranquillity.
+
+But the question of the independence of Brazil had now come to be
+publicly agitated, and out of it arose several others. Was it to be
+still part of the Portuguese monarchy, with a separate supreme
+jurisdiction civil and criminal under the Prince? or was it to return to
+the abject state in which it had been since its discovery, subject to
+all the vexatious delays occasioned by distant tribunals, by appeals
+beyond sea, and all that renders the state of a colony irksome or
+degrading? Then if independent so far, was it to form one kingdom whose
+capital should be at Rio, or were there to be several unconnected
+provinces, each with its supreme government, accountable only to the
+king and cortes at Lisbon? Those who had republican views, and who
+looked forward to a federal state, favoured the latter views, and so did
+those who dreaded the final separation of Brazil from the mother
+country; for they argued that the separate provinces might be easily
+controlled, but that Brazil united would overmatch any force that
+Portugal could send against it, should a hostile struggle between them
+ever take place.
+
+The people, jealous of all, but particularly of the ministers, accused
+the Conde dos Arcos of treachery, and of a wish to reduce Brazil once
+more to the state in which it had been before 1808. They insisted on his
+dismissal, and on the appointment of a provisional junta, which should
+deliberate on the best measures of government to be adopted, until the
+constitution of the cortes should arrive from Lisbon, and the fifth of
+June, the day of his dismissal, was held as a festival.[37]
+
+[Note 37: When he touched at Bahia on his way home, the junta of
+government there, prejudiced by letters from Rio, refused him permission
+to land; and he had the mortification of being treated as a criminal, in
+that very city where he had governed with honour, and where he had been
+beloved. On his arrival at Lisbon, he suffered a short imprisonment in
+the tower of Belem. Yet his misconduct, if it amounted to all he was
+charged with, seems to have been an error in judgment.]
+
+Yet, distressed as the government was by an empty treasury, and by
+demands increasing daily on all sides, it was impossible to remove at
+once all causes of discontent; and the new junta was so well aware of
+this, that, on the 16th of June, on publishing an invitation to all
+persons to send in plans and projects for improvements, and statistical
+notices concerning the country, they also published an exhortation to
+tranquillity and obedience, and patient waiting till the event of the
+deliberation of the cortes, now to be joined by their own deputies,
+should be known. That same night both the Portuguese and Brazilian
+troops were under arms in the city, violent jealousies had arisen
+between them, and it required all the authority and all the popularity
+of the Prince to restore order. On the morning of the 17th His Royal
+Highness called together the officers of both nations, and in a short
+speech he ordered them as soldiers, and recommended to them as citizens,
+to preserve the subordination of the troops they commanded, and union
+among those troops, bidding them remember that they had sworn to support
+the constitution, and that they were to trust to that for the redress of
+their grievances.
+
+Meanwhile the more distant provinces had acknowledged the authority of
+the cortes, and had sworn to support the constitution. But Maranham in
+its public acts took no notice whatever of the Prince, professing only
+to recognise the government of Lisbon. At Villa Rica, when the
+constitution was proclaimed, the troops refused to acknowledge the
+Prince, accusing him of withholding the pay promised by the King. At St.
+Catherine's, though the measures were less violent, yet the refusing to
+admit a new governor who had been sent, was decidedly an act of
+insubordination; but the political agitations at St. Paul's were not
+only of a more serious nature, but had more important results than those
+of any other province.
+
+The ostensible cause of the first public ferment in that city was the
+discontent of the Ca�adores at not receiving the promised augmentation
+of pay, which, indeed, it was not then in the power of the Prince to
+bestow on them.
+
+The regiment, however, took up arms on the 3d of June, and declared they
+would not lay them down until they received the pay demanded, and were
+proceeding to threaten the municipal government of the city, when they
+were stopped by the good sense, and presence of mind of their captain,
+Jos� Joaquim dos Santos. But though the ferment was soothed for the
+time, it continued to agitate not only the troops, but the people, to
+such a degree, that the magistrates and principal inhabitants thought it
+necessary to take some steps at once, to rule and to satisfy them. They
+took advantage of the occasion furnished by the assembling of the
+militia, on account of a festival on the 21st, and, keeping them
+together, they placed them on the morning of the 23d, in the square
+before the town-house, where the camara held its sittings. The great
+bell of the camara then tolled out, the people flocked to the square,
+with shouts of "Viva el Re, Viva o Constitui�ao, Viva o Principe
+Regente." They then demanded a provisional junta to be appointed for the
+government of the province, and that Jos� Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva,
+should be appointed president. This truly patriotic citizen and
+accomplished scholar, was a native of the country, and had now been
+residing in it some years, after having studied, travelled, and fought
+in Europe. As soon as he was named, a deputation was sent to his own
+dwelling, to bring him to the town-house.
+
+Meantime the standard of the camara had been displayed at one of the
+windows, and there the magistrates were placed in sight of the people.
+Jos� Bonifacio appeared at another window, and addressed the people in a
+short, but energetic speech, calculated to give them courage, and at the
+same time to inspire peace and all good and orderly feeling. He then
+named, one by one, the members proposed by the chief citizens, to form
+the provisional junta, beginning with Joa[)o] Carlos Augusto de Oyenhausen,
+to continue general of arms in the province. Each name was received with
+cheers.[38] The troops and people then marched in an orderly manner to
+the house of Jos� Bonifacio, to install him formally as president, and
+thence to the cathedral where a Te Deum was sung. At night the theatre
+was illuminated as for a gala, the national hymn was sung repeatedly;
+and from that moment all remained quiet in the city, and resolved to
+maintain the constitution, and the Prince Regent, for whom they
+expressed unbounded attachment.
+
+[Note 38: _Provisional government of St. Paul's._
+
+    The Archpriest Felisberto Gomes Jardin.
+    The Rev. Joa[)o] Ferreiro da Oliviero Bueno.
+    Antonio Lecto Perreiro da Gama Lobo.
+    Daniel Pedro Muller.
+    Francisco Ignacio.
+    Manoel Rodriguez Jorda[)o].
+    Andre da Sylva Gomez.
+    Francisco de Paulo Oliviera.
+    Dr. Nicola[)o] Perreira de Campos Noguerros.
+    Antonio Maria Quertim.
+    Martin Francisco de Andrada.
+    Lazaro Jos� Gon�alez.
+    Miguel Jos� de Oliviero Pinto.
+
+]
+
+Nothing could have been so important to the interest of the Prince at
+that time. The Paulistas are among the most hardy, generous, and
+enlightened of the Brazilians. Their country is in the happiest climate.
+The mines of St. Paul's are rich, not only in the precious, but in the
+useful metals. Iron, so rich as to yield 93 per cent. and coal abound.
+The manufactures of that province are far before any others in Brazil.
+Corn and cattle are plenty there, as well as every other species of
+Brazilian produce. Agriculture is attended to, and the city by its
+distance from the sea, is safe from the attacks of any foreign power,
+while it is totally independent of external supplies.
+
+Unfortunately, the port of Santos presented a different scene during the
+first days of June. The first battalion of the Ca�adores assembled
+before the government house, and, accusing the governor and the camara
+of withholding their pay, seized and imprisoned them, in order to force
+them to give the money they demanded. Several murders were committed
+during the insurrection, and various robberies, both in the houses and
+the ships in the harbour. Some armed vessels were, however, speedily
+despatched from Rio, and a detachment of militia from St. Paul's. Fifty
+of the insurgents were killed, and two hundred and forty taken
+prisoners; after which, every thing returned to a state of tranquillity;
+and as the most conciliatory measures were adopted towards the people,
+the peace continued.
+
+The next three months were spent almost entirely in establishing
+provisional juntas in the different capitals. Many of the captaincies
+had, upon swearing to maintain the constitution, spontaneously adopted
+that measure. Others, such as Pernambuco, had been restrained by their
+governors from doing so, until the Prince's edicts of the 21st of
+August, to that effect, reached them. These edicts were followed by
+another of the 19th of September, directing the juntas to communicate
+directly with the cortes at Lisbon; and the whole attention of the
+government was now directed to preserve tranquillity until the arrival
+of instructions from the cortes concerning the form of government to be
+adopted.
+
+It was fondly hoped, that the presence of Brazilian deputies, the
+importance of the country, and the consideration that it had been the
+asylum of the government during the stormy days of the revolutionary
+war, would have induced the cortes to have considered it no longer as a
+colony, but as an equal part of the nation, and that it might have
+retained its separate courts, civil and criminal, and all the consequent
+advantages of a prompt administration of the laws.
+
+Such was the state of Brazil, generally speaking, on our arrival in that
+country, on the 21st of September, 1821. Much that might be interesting
+I have omitted, partly because I have not so correct a knowledge of it,
+as to venture to write it; much, because we are too near the time of
+action to know the motives and springs that guided the actors; and much,
+because neither my sex nor situation permitted me to inform myself more
+especially concerning the political events in a country where the
+periodical publications are few, recent, and though by law free, yet, in
+fact, owing to the circumstances of the times, imperfect, timorous, and
+uncertain. What I have ventured to write is, I trust, correct as to
+facts and dates; it is merely intended as an introduction, without
+which, the journal of what passed while I was in Brazil would be
+scarcely intelligible.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+
+At about six o'clock in the evening of the 31st of July, 1821, after
+having saluted His Majesty, George IV., who at that moment went on board
+the Royal George yacht, to proceed to Dublin,--we sailed in the Doris, a
+42 gun frigate, for South America. After touching at Plymouth, and
+revisiting all the wonders of the break-water and new watering place, we
+sailed afresh, but when off Ushant, were driven back to Falmouth by a
+heavy gale of wind. There we remained till the 11th of August, when,
+with colours half-mast high, on account of the death of Queen Caroline,
+we finally left the channel, and on the 18th about noon came in sight of
+Porto Santo.
+
+We passed it on the side where the town founded by Don Henry of
+Portugal, on the first discovery of the island, is situated, and
+regretted much that it was too late in the day to go in very near it.
+The land is high and rocky, but near the town there is a good deal of
+verdure, and higher up on the land, extensive woods; a considerable
+quantity of wine is made there, which, being a little manufactured at
+Funchal, passes for true Madeira. As usual in Portuguese colonial towns,
+the church and convent are very conspicuous. When we passed Porto Santo,
+and the Desertas, and anchored in Funchal roads, I was disappointed at
+the calmness of my own feelings, looking at these distant islands with
+as little emotion as if I had passed a headland in the channel. Well do
+I remember, when I first saw Funchal twelve years ago, the joyous
+eagerness with which I feasted my eyes upon the first foreign country I
+had ever approached, the curiosity to see every stone and tree of the
+new land, which kept my spirits in a kind of happy fever.
+
+    "Sweet Memory, wafted by thy gentle gale,
+    Oft up the stream of time I turn my sail,
+    To view the fairy haunts of long lost hours,
+    Blest with far greener shades, far fresher flow'rs." ROGERS.
+
+Now I look on them tamely, or at best only as parts of the lovely
+landscape, which, just at sunset, the time we anchored, was particularly
+beautiful. Surely the few years added to my age have not done this? May
+I not rather hope, that having seen lands whose monuments are all
+history, and whose associations are all poetry, I have a higher taste,
+and more discriminating eye? One object never palls--that ocean where
+the Almighty "Glasses himself in tempests," or over which the gentle
+wings of peace seem to brood. The feeling that there was a change,
+however, either in the scene or in me, was so strong, that I ran to my
+cabin and sought out a sketch I had made in 1809. I compared it with the
+town. Every point of the hill, every house was the same, and again Nossa
+Senhora da Monte, with her brilliant white towers shining from on high
+through the evening cloud, seemed to sanctify the scene, while a few
+rough voices from the shore and the neighbouring ships chaunted the Ave
+Maria.
+
+Early in the morning of the 19th, we took a large party of the
+midshipmen on shore to enjoy the young pleasure of walking on a foreign
+land. To them it was new to see the palm, the cypress, and the yucca,
+together with the maize, banana, and sugar-cane, surrounded by
+vineyards, while the pine and chesnut clothe the hills. We mounted the
+boys on mules, and rode up to the little parish church, generally
+mistaken for a convent, called Nossa Senhora da Monte. My maid and I
+went in a bad sort of palankeen, though convenient for these roads,
+which are the worst I have seen; however, the view made up for the
+difficulty of getting to it. The sea with the Desertas bounded the
+prospect: below us lay the roadstead and shipping, the town and gardens,
+and the hill clothed with vineyards and trees of every climate, which
+deck the ashy tufa, or compact basalt of which the whole island seems to
+be composed. Purchas, who like Bowles, believes the story of the
+discovery of Madeira by the Englishman Masham and his dying mistress,
+says, that shortly after that event, the woods having taken fire burned
+so fiercely, that the inhabitants were forced out to sea to escape from
+the flames. The woods, however, are again pretty thick, and some
+inferior mahogany among it is used for furniture. The pine is too soft
+for most purposes. In the gardens we found a large blue hydrangea very
+common: the fuschia is the usual hedge. Mixed with that splendid shrub,
+aloes, prickly pear, euphorbia, and cactus, serve for the coarser
+fences; and these strange vegetables, together with innumerable lizards
+and insects, tell us we are nearing the tropics.
+
+We spent a very happy day at the hospitable country house of Mr.
+Wardrope, and our cavalcade to the town at night was delightful. The
+boys, mounted as before, together with several gentlemen who had joined
+us at Mr. W.'s, enjoyed the novelty of riding home by torch-light; and
+as we wound down the hill, the voices of the muleteers answering each
+other, or encouraging their beasts with a kind of rude song, completed
+the scene. The evening was fine, and the star-light lovely: we embarked
+in two shore boats at the custom-house gate, and, after being duly
+hailed by the guard-boat, a strange machine mounting one old rusty 6
+lb. carronade, we reached the ship in very good time.
+
+20th. We walked a good deal about the town, and entered the cathedral
+with some feelings of reverence, for a part of it at least was built by
+Don Henry of Portugal, who founded and endowed the college adjoining.
+The interior of the church is in some parts gaudy, and there is a silver
+rail of some value. The ceiling is of cedar, richly carved, and reminds
+me of some of the old churches at Venice, which present a style half
+Gothic half Saracenic. Near the church a public garden has lately been
+formed, and some curious exotic trees placed there with great success.
+
+In rambling about the town, we naturally enquired for the chapel of
+skulls, the ugliness of which had shocked us when here formerly, and
+were not sorry to find that that hideous monument of bad taste is
+falling fast to ruin. I cannot imagine how such fantastic horrors can
+ever have been sanctified, but so it is; and the Indian fakir who
+fastens a real skull round his neck, the Roman pilgrim who hangs a model
+of one to his rosary, and the friar who decks his oratory with a
+thousand of them, are one and all acted upon either by the same real
+superstition, or spiritual vanity, craving to distinguish itself even by
+disgusting peculiarities.
+
+Of late years superstition has been used as an instrument of no small
+power in revolutions of every kind. Even here it has played its part. A
+small chapel, dedicated to St. Sebastian, had been removed by the
+Portuguese government in order to erect a market-place, where all
+articles of daily consumption were to be sold, a small tax being levied
+on the holders of stands. This innovation was of course disagreeable to
+the people, and on the night of the revolution, in November last, some
+of their leading orators accused the market-place of having, by rudely
+thrusting out St. Sebastian, occasioned the failure of the vineyards,
+and threatened the ruin of the island. The market-place was instantly
+devoted; it was down in a few seconds, and a chapel to St. Sebastian
+begun. Men, women, and children worked all night, and the walls were
+raised to at least two-thirds of the intended height; but day brought
+weariness, and perhaps the morning breeze chilled the fever of
+enthusiasm. The voluntary labourers worked no more, and no subscription
+adequate to the hire of workmen to complete it has yet been raised: so
+that the new St. Sebastian's stands roofless, and the officiating priest
+performs his masses with no other canopy than the heavens.
+
+Other and better consequences have, however, arisen from the revolution
+of November. The grievances of the inhabitants of Madeira were severe.
+The sons of the best families were seized arbitrarily, and sent to serve
+in the armies of Europe or Brazil: scarcely any article, however
+necessary, or however coarse, was permitted to be manufactured; the very
+torches, made of twisted grass and resin, so necessary for travelling
+these mountain roads after sunset, were all sent from Lisbon, and every
+species of cultivation, but that of the grape, discountenanced. Thus
+situated, every class joined heart and hand in the revolution: deputies
+were sent to the Cortes; petitions respecting the state of agriculture,
+manufactures, and commerce, were presented; and many, perhaps most, of
+the grievances were redressed, or at least much lightened.
+
+Till the year 1821, there had never been a printing-press in Madeira;
+but the promoters of the revolution sent to England for one, which is
+now set up in Funchal; and on the 2d of July, 1821, the first newspaper,
+under the name of PATRIOTA FUNCHALENSE, appeared. It contained a well
+written patriotic preface; and the first article is a declaration of the
+rights of citizens, and of the pretensions of the Portuguese nation, its
+religion, government, and royal family, as adopted by the Cortes for the
+basis of the constitution to be formed for its government. The paper has
+continued to be published twice a week: it contains a few political
+addresses and discourses; all foreign intelligence; some tolerable
+papers on distilling, agriculture, manufactures, and similar topics;
+some humorous pieces in prose and verse; poems _on several occasions_;
+and, at the end of the month, a table of the receipts and expenditures
+of government. Among the advertisements I observe one informing the
+public where _leeches_ may be bought at about two shillings and sixpence
+a piece.
+
+I thought it curious to observe this first dawning of literature and
+interest in politics in this little island. There are certainly enough
+anglicisms in the paper, to point out the probable country of some of
+the writers; and there are, as might be looked for, some traces of the
+residence of British troops in the colony; but on the whole, the paper
+is creditable to the editors, and likely to be useful to the island. I
+hear the articles on the making of wines and brandies very highly spoken
+of. Madeira, lying in the finest climate in the world, beautiful and
+fertile, and easy of access to foreigners, ought not to be a mere half
+civilised colony.
+
+23d.--We sailed yesterday from Funchal, and soon lost sight of the
+
+      "Filha do oceano
+     Do undoso campo flor, gentil MADEIRA." DINIZ.
+
+At night, I sat a long time on the deck, listening to the sea songs with
+which the crew beguile the evening watch. Though the humorous songs were
+applauded sufficiently, yet the plaintive and pathetic seemed the
+favourites; and the chorus to the Death of Wolfe was swelled by many
+voices. Oh, who shall say that fame is not a real good! It is twice
+blessed--it blesses him who earns, and those who give, to parody the
+words of Shakspeare. Here, on the wide ocean, far from the land of
+Wolfe's birth, and that of his gallant death, his story was raising and
+swelling the hearts of rough men, and exciting love of country and of
+glory by the very sound of his name. Well may _he_ be called a
+benefactor to his country who, by increasing the list of patriotic
+sailors' songs, has fostered those feelings and energies which have
+placed Britain's "home upon the mountain wave, and her march upon the
+deep."
+
+The charms of night in a southern climate have been dwelt upon by
+travelled poets (for I call Madame de Stael's writings poetry), and even
+travelled prose writers; but Lord Byron alone has sketched with
+knowledge and with love, the moonlight scenery of a frigate in full
+sail. The life of a seaman is the essence of poetry; change, new
+combinations, danger, situations from almost deathlike calm, to the
+maddest combinations of horror--every romantic feeling called forth, and
+every power of heart and intellect exercised. Man, weak as he is,
+baffling the elements, and again seeing that miracle of his invention,
+the tall ship he sails in, tossed to and fro, like the lightest feather
+from the seabird's wing--while he can do nothing but resign himself to
+the will of Him who alone can stay the proud waves, and on whom heart,
+intellect, and feeling, all depend!
+
+25th.--Nothing can be finer than the approach to Teneriffe[39],
+especially on such a day as this; the peak now appearing through the
+floating clouds, and now entirely veiled by them. As we drew near the
+coast, the bay or rather roadstead of Oratava, surrounded by a singular
+mixture of rocks, and woods, and scattered towns, started forth at once
+from beneath the mists, which seemed to separate it from the peak, whose
+cold blue colour formed a strong contrast to the glowing red and yellow
+which autumn had already spread on the lower grounds.
+
+[Note 39: The Chinerfe of the Guanches.]
+
+We anchored in forty fathoms water with our chain-cable, as the bottom
+is very rocky, excepting where a pretty wide river, which, though now
+dry, rolls a considerable body of water to the sea in the rainy season,
+has deposited a bed of black mud. There are many rocks in the bay, with
+from one to three fathoms water, and within them from nine to ten. The
+swell constantly setting in is very great, and renders the anchorage
+uncomfortable.
+
+26th.--- I went ashore with Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant, and two of
+the young midshipmen, for the purpose of riding to the Villa di Oratava,
+which is situated where the ancient Guanche capital stood. We landed at
+the Puerto di Oratava, several miles from the villa: it is defended by
+some small batteries, at one of which is the very difficult
+landing-place, sheltered by a low reef of rocks that runs far out, and
+occasions a heavy surf. I took my own saddle ashore: and being mounted
+on a fine mule, we all began our journey towards the hill. The road is
+rough, but has evidently once been made with some pains, and paved with
+blocks of porous lava; but the winter rains have long ago destroyed it,
+and it does not seem to be any body's business to put it in repair.
+
+The first quarter of a mile on either hand presented a scene so black
+and stony, that I was surprised to learn that we had been passing
+through corn land; the harvest was over, and the stubble burned on the
+ground. The produce here is scanty; but being so near the port, it
+repays the labour and expense of cultivation. We saw the botanical
+garden so much praised by Humboldt; but it is in sad disorder, having
+been for some time entirely neglected. However, the very establishment
+of such a thing brings in new plants, and perhaps naturalises them.
+Here, the sago-palm, platanus, and tamarind, as well as the flowers and
+vegetables of the north of Europe, flourish so well as to promise to add
+permanently to the riches of this rich island. As we ascended towards
+the villa the prospect improved; the vineyards appeared in greatest
+beauty, every other crop still standing in the luxuriant valleys, the
+rocky cliffs of the mountains clothed with wood, and every thing glowing
+with life. Wheat, barley, a few oats, maize, potatoes, and caravansas,
+all grow freely here. The food of the common people consists chiefly of
+Polenta, or maize flour, used nearly as the Scotch peasants use their
+oatmeal, in cakes, brose, or porridge, which last is suffered to grow
+cold, and then most commonly cut in slices and toasted. After the maize,
+potatoes are the favourite food, together with salt fish. The potatoe is
+always in season, being planted every month, and consequently producing
+a monthly crop. The fishery employs from forty-five to fifty vessels of
+from seventy to ninety tons' burden, from the island of Teneriffe alone;
+the fish are taken on the coast of Africa, and salted here.
+
+To a stranger the sight of the long walls of black porous lava, built
+terrace-wise to support the vegetable mould, is very striking; but the
+walls cannot be called ugly, while the clustering vine and
+broad-spreading gourd, climb and find support on them: these, however,
+soon disappeared, and were replaced by field and garden enclosures.
+After a pleasant but hot ride, we arrived at the villa about noon, and
+went to the house of Se�or Don Antonio de Monteverde, who accompanied us
+to M. Franqui's garden, to see one of the wonders of the island, the
+famous Dragon Tree. Humboldt has celebrated this tree in its vigour;
+it is now a noble ruin. In July, 1819, one half of its enormous crown
+fell: the wound is plaistered up, the date of the misfortune marked on
+it, and as much care is taken of the venerable vegetable as will ensure
+it for at least another century. I sat down to make a sketch of it; and
+while I was drawing, learned from Mr. Galway the following history of
+the family of its owner, which a little skill in language and a little
+adorning with sentiment might convert into a modern novel.--About the
+year 1760, the Marquis Franqui, upon some disgust, made over his estates
+in trust to his brother, and emigrated to France, where he remained
+until 1810, regularly receiving the proceeds from his estates in
+Teneriffe. Meantime, during the early period of the revolution, he
+married; and his only child, a daughter, was born. This marriage,
+however, was only a civil contract, such being then the law of France,
+and with a woman divorced from another, who was still living. But
+neither the validity of the union nor the legitimacy of the child was
+ever questioned; and the Marquis Franqui returning to his native
+country, brought with him his daughter, introducing and treating her as
+his heiress. She appeared to be received as such by his family; and at
+his death he appointed trustworthy guardians to her and her estates, one
+of whom is her husband's father. No sooner, however, was the Marquis
+dead, than his brother claimed his property, alleging that the church
+had never sanctioned the Marquis's marriage, and that the daughter
+consequently, as an illegitimate child, could have no claim on his
+estates. He therefore commenced a lawsuit against her and her guardians,
+and the suit is still pending. Meantime the court receives the rents;
+the garden, the chief ornament of the town, is running wild, and the
+house is deserted.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The dragon tree is the slowest of growth among vegetables; it seems also
+to be slowest in decay. In the 15th century, that of Oratava had
+attained the height and size which it boasted till 1819. It may have
+been in its prime for centuries before; and scarcely less than a
+thousand years must have elapsed, before it attained its full size.
+Excepting the dragon trees at Madeira, the only many-headed palm I had
+seen before was that at Mazagong in Bombay. It is crowned, however, with
+a leaf like that of the palmetto; but the tufts of the dragon tree
+resemble the yucca in growth. The palm tree at Mazagong, like the
+adansonia in Salsette, is reported to have been carried thither by a
+pilgrim from Africa, probably from Upper Egypt, where late travellers
+mention this palm.
+
+On our return from the garden to Don Antonio's house, we were most
+kindly received by his wife and daughter, the latter of whom played a
+long and difficult piece of music most excellently. It was, however,
+English, in compliment to us, though we should have preferred some of
+her own national airs. After the music, we were conducted to a table
+spread in the gallery that surrounds the open court in the middle of the
+house, and covered with fruits, sweetmeats, and wines, which were
+pressed upon us most hospitably; till finding it time to return, the
+ladies both embraced me, and we began our journey down the hill, having
+first looked into the churches, which are spacious and handsome, a good
+deal in the style of those of Madeira, but finer.
+
+As we rode along, we observed a large Dominican convent, the only one
+now on the island. The recent law passed by the Spanish Cortes for the
+suppression of religious houses, has been strictly enforced here. No
+more than one convent of each denomination is allowed to subsist, and
+great checks are put on the profession of new members. As to the
+revolution here, the inhabitants had known from authentic though not
+official authority of what had taken place in the mother country, three
+weeks before they received any notification from either court or cortes.
+When notice did arrive, the magistrates assembled the people, read their
+orders, and took their oaths to support the cortes; the people shouted,
+and made a bonfire: next day the forms of law and justice were declared
+to be changed, the tribunals proceeded accordingly, and all was over and
+quiet.
+
+The Canary Islands boast of two bishoprics, both of which are now
+vacant, yet have not one newspaper. The only printing press has been so
+long in disuse that there is nobody who can work it in the country. I
+could not learn that there are any manufactures in Teneriffe; if there
+are, I conclude they must be in the neighbourhood of Laguna or Santa
+Cruz. Oratava appears to be the district of corn and wine.
+
+We returned to the port by a longer road than that by which we left it.
+In the hedges, the boys, with no small delight, gathered fine ripe
+black-berries, which were growing among prickly pear and other tropical
+plants. The fields, vineyards, and orchards we had seen from the former
+road we now passed through; and as it was a _fiesta_, we saw the
+peasants in their best attire, and their little mud huts cleanly swept
+and garnished. They seem gentle and lively, not much darker than the
+natives of the south of Europe; and if there be a mixture of Guanche
+blood, it is said to be traced in the high cheek-bones, narrow chins,
+and slender hands and feet which in a few districts seem to indicate a
+different race of men. I regret that I had not time to see more of the
+people and the country; but not being travellers from curiosity, and
+belonging to a service that may not swerve from the strictest obedience,
+we dared not even think of a farther excursion.
+
+Halfway down the hill, we entered a ravine, the dry bed of a winter
+torrent, where there were rue, lavender, prickly pear, hypericum, and
+spurge; but not a blade of grass had survived the summer's drought. We
+passed a heap of black ashes, which anywhere but at the base of the peak
+would be called a respectable mountain. It has not been cold long enough
+to be disguised by vegetation; and though on one side the vine is
+beginning to clothe its rugged surface, yet the greater part is
+frightfully barren. Shortly after we passed it, we arrived at Mr.
+Galway's garden-house, and found his lady, a Spaniard of Irish
+extraction, ready to receive us. As I had seen in some old Scotch
+houses, the best bed-chamber served as drawing-room; but the
+dressing-room is apart, and from the front there is an opening to a
+pleasant terrace, commanding a charming view. Our dinner was a mixture
+of English and Spanish cookery and customs: the Spanish part consisted
+of part of a Darter, a very fine fish, white, but resembling a salmon
+in taste, with sauce made of small lobsters, oil, vinegar, garlic, and
+pimento; some excellent stews, and mixtures of vegetables and quails
+roasted in vine leaves; the rest were all English; and the wines, the
+growth of the island, and ices[40] were delicious. Neither the
+pine-apple nor water-melon grow in Teneriffe, but abundance of the
+latter are brought from Grand Canary. All the common garden fruits of
+Europe flourish here; but too little attention is paid to horticulture.
+This island, or at least the part I have seen, evidently belongs to a
+state that has once been great; but is now too poor or too weak to
+foster its foreign possessions. Some fine houses begun are in an
+unfinished state, and appear to have been so for years; others, though
+falling, are neither rebuilt nor repaired; and the only things like
+present prosperity, are the neat English country-houses.
+
+[Note 40: The ice is procured from a large cavern near the cone of
+the peak; it is almost full of the finest ice all the year round.]
+
+It was sunset before we reached the boats that were to convey us to the
+ship; and we had some difficulty both in getting off and in going
+alongside of the frigate, owing to the great swell. The night, however,
+was fine, and the scene enlivened by the lights in the fishing boats,
+which, like those in the Mediterranean, are used to attract the fish. On
+shore, the lights of the ports and villa, and the fires of the charcoal
+burners shining from amidst the dark hanging forests of pine, and those
+of the limekilns in the direction of Laguna, appeared like a brilliant
+illumination; and there being not a cloud, the outline of the peak was
+well defined on the deep blue of the nocturnal sky.
+
+27th _August_. To-day, some of our new friends, both Spanish and
+English, came on board; but the swell was so great, that only one
+escaped sea-sickness. Mrs. Galway was fearful of suffering, so did not
+come, but she sent me some of the beads found in the sepulchres of the
+Guanches: they are of hard baked clay. Mr. Humboldt, whose imagination
+was naturally full of South America, has conjectured that they might
+have been used for the same purpose as the Peruvian _quipos_, but they
+are inconveniently large for that use. They are not unlike the beads
+Belzoni found in the mummy pits in Egypt, and they closely resemble some
+of the many kinds of beads with which the Bramins have counted their
+muntras time immemorial. The Oriental custom of dropping a bead for
+every prayer having been adopted by the Christians of the west, and
+still continuing in Roman Catholic countries, appears, on that account,
+too common to deserve the notice of a philosophical traveller; and
+therefore the Guanche shepherds, or goatherd kings, are rather supposed,
+like the polished Peruvians, to have recorded the annals of their reigns
+with clay beads, than allowed to tell them with their orisons, like the
+Bramins of the Ganges, the shepherds of Mesopotamia, or the anchorets of
+Palestine and Egypt, because the modern monk does the same. The Guanche
+mummies are now of very rare occurrence. During the early times of the
+Spanish government of the island, their sepulchres were carefully
+concealed by the natives; now, intermarriage with their conquerors, and
+consequent change of religion and habits, have rendered them careless of
+them, and they are, generally speaking, really forgotten, and only
+discovered accidentally in planting a new vineyard, or ploughing a new
+field.
+
+28th. This morning left the "still vext" bay of Oratava, and before
+sunset saw Palma and Gomera. The Canary Islands, supposed to be the
+Fortunate Islands of the ancients, were discovered accidentally in 1405.
+Betancour, a Frenchman, took possession of them for Spain; but the
+natives were brave, and it cost both the Spaniards and Portuguese, who
+possessed them by turns, much blood and treasure to conquer the country
+and exterminate the people, for their wars ended in nothing less.
+Purchas complains that he could not obtain the reading of some travels
+by an Englishman who had visited the Peak; the good pilgrim's curiosity
+had been strongly excited by the particulars he had learnt from books,
+and the journals of some of his friends who had travelled, which he has
+carefully related: they are such as to make me regret that he has not
+recorded more, and that I cannot see more. We brought with us from
+Oratava one of the finest goats I ever saw; I presume she was a
+descendant of the original flock which the supreme deity of the Guanches
+created to be the property of the kings alone: she is brown, with very
+long twisted horns, a very remarkable white beard, and the largest udder
+I ever saw.
+
+29th. Passed the island of Hierro or Ferro, the old first meridian;
+which honour, I presume, it enjoyed from having been considered as the
+most western land in the world until the discovery of America. We were
+very close to it, and all agreed that we never saw so hard-looking and
+inaccessible a place. We saw some fine woods, a few scattered houses,
+and one village perched upon a hill, at least 1500 feet above us. The
+Peak of Teneriffe still visible above the clouds.
+
+_Sept._ 1st. The flying-fish are become very numerous, and whole fleets
+of medus� have passed us; some we have picked up, besides a very
+beautiful purple sea-snail. This fish has four horns, like a snail, the
+shell is very beautifully tinted with purple, and there is a spongy
+substance attached to the fish which I thought assisted it to swim: it
+is larger in bulk than the whole fish. One of them gave out fully a
+quarter of an ounce of purple fluid from the lower part of the fish. A
+fine yellow locust and a swallow flew on board; and as we believe
+ourselves to be four hundred miles from the nearest land, Cape Blanco,
+we cannot enough admire the structure of the wings that have borne them
+so far.
+
+Our school for the ship's boys is now fairly established, and does Mr.
+Hyslop, our school-master, great credit; that for the midshipmen is
+going on very well, being kept in the fore-cabin under the captain's
+eye. The boys have his presence, not only as a check to idleness or
+noise, but as an encouragement to industry. He is most anxious to make
+them fit to be officers and seamen in their profession, and good men and
+gentlemen both at sea and on shore. Happily they are all promising; but
+if G---- should disappoint us, I never will believe in youthful talent,
+industry, or goodness more. Our days pass swiftly, because busily. The
+regular business of the ship, the school, astronomical observations,
+study of history and modern languages, and nothing permitted to pass
+without observation, fill our time completely.
+
+Lord Bacon says, "It is a strange thing that in sea voyages, where there
+is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in
+land travel, wherein so much is to be observed, for the most part they
+omit it, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation."
+However, for once, his lordship has only seen, or perhaps only spoken,
+in part. Sea and sky must be observed before we can know the laws by
+which their great changes or chances are regulated. Observations on the
+works of man, as cities, courts, &c. may be omitted, for we know their
+authors, and can have recourse to them, their motives, and their
+history, whenever we please; but the great operations of nature are so
+above us, that we must humbly mark them, and endeavour to make their
+history a part of our experience, in order that we pass safely through
+their vicissitudes. Hence it is, that the commonest details of the early
+navigators, their sunrise and sunset, their daily portionings of food
+and water, are read with a deeper interest than the liveliest tour
+through civilised countries and populous cities; that Byron's passage
+through Chiloe continues to excite the most profound sympathy; while
+Moore's lively view of society and manners in France or Italy, are now
+seldom or languidly read. The uncertainty, the mystery of nature, keep
+up a perpetual curiosity; but I suspect that if we knew the progress and
+dependance of her operations, as well as we do those of an architect or
+brick-layer, the history of the building of a theatre or a
+dwelling-house might vie in interest with that of a sea voyage.
+
+The books we intend our boys to read are,--history, particularly that of
+_Greece_, _Rome_, _England_, and _France_; an outline of general
+history, voyages, and discoveries; some poetry, and general literature,
+in French and English; Delolme, with the concluding chapter of
+Blackstone on the history of the law and the constitution of England;
+and afterwards the first volume of Blackstone, Bacon's Essays, and
+Paley. We have only three years to work in; and as the _business_ of
+their life is to learn their profession, including mathematics,
+algebra, nautical astronomy, theory and practice of seamanship, and duty
+as officers, with all the _technicalities_ belonging to it,--this is all
+we dare propose.
+
+5th. We have begun to look forward to that festival of the seamen, the
+crossing the line. I know not whence the custom is derived, but the
+Arabs observe it with ceremonies not very unlike those practised by our
+own sailors. To-day a letter, containing a sketch of the intended
+festival, with thanks for permission to keep it, was sent into the
+cabin. I shall copy it with its answer. I find that some captains have
+begun to give money at the next port, instead of permitting this day of
+misrule. Perhaps they may be right, and perhaps in time it may be
+forgotten; but will it be better that it should be so? It is the
+sailors' only festival; and I like a festival: it gives the heart room
+to play. The head in one class, and the limbs in another, work every
+day, and in divers, if not opposite directions; but on a festival, the
+hearts of all beat the same way: yet I would not have them too often,
+for
+
+    "If every day were playing holiday,
+    To sport would be as tedious as to work;"
+
+the converse of the proverb, "All work and no play, makes Jack a dull
+boy." But to our letters.
+
+"The sons of Neptune, of His Majesty's ship Doris, commanded by Captain
+T.G., return their most grateful thanks for his kind condescension for
+granting them the favour that has been allowed to them from time
+immemorial, in crossing the Equinoctial, on our Old Father Neptune's
+dominions, when we hope the characters will meet your Honour's
+approbation, which will appear in the margin.
+
+Thomas Clark, quarter-master,          --     Neptune.
+J. Ware, forecastle,                   --     Amphitrite.
+W. Knight,                             --     Amphitrite's Son.
+W. Sullivan, 2d captain main-top,      --     Triton.
+C. Brisbane (_negro_),                 --     Triton's Horse.
+J. Thompson, gunner's mate,            --     High Sheriff.
+J. White, forecastle,                  --     Sub Sheriff.
+W. Sinclair, captain forecastle,       --     Barber.
+J. Smith, J. Forster, Michael Jaque,   --    Barber's Mates.
+J. Gaggin,                             --     Clerk.
+W. Bird, captain fore-top,             --     Chief Constable.
+Nine assistants.
+J. Duncan, boatswain's mate,           --     Coachman.
+J. Clark,                              --     Postilion.
+J. Leath,                              --     Footman.
+J. Speed,                              --     Painter.
+W. Lundy,                              --     Bottle-holder.
+W. Williamson,                         --     Satan.
+J. Williams,                           --     Judge Advocate.
+Eight Sea-horses.
+
+"So we have given you as good a relation as possibly our weak abilities
+afford us; and, honoured Captain, believe us when we say, we wish you
+every happiness this life can afford, and your honoured lady entirely
+included, and believe us yours, &c. &c. &c.
+
+"BRITTON'S SONS."
+
+_Answer._
+
+"I received your letter with the list of characters that are to appear
+in Father Neptune's train on our crossing the line, of which I
+completely approve. I have to thank you for your kind wishes both for
+Mrs. G---- and myself, and to assure you, that the greatest pleasure I
+can feel in the command of this ship, will be in promoting the happiness
+and comfort of the whole of Britain's sons on board the Doris.
+
+"Believe me your sincere friend,
+THOS. G----,
+
+"H.M.S. Doris, at Sea, Sept 5th, 1821.
+To Britain's Sons, H.M.S. Doris."
+
+It would be worth while to enquire into the origin of the merry-making
+on crossing the line. As the Arabs, an astronomical people, have it, it
+has probably some reference to their now-forgotten worship of the
+heavenly bodies. Like us, they set on fire some combustible matter or
+other, and let it float away, but they add some food to it, as if there
+had once been a sacrifice accompanying the festival. Such, at least, I
+have been assured by several gentleman well acquainted with the Arab
+traders in the Eastern sea, is their practice.
+
+18th. We have done nothing but sail on with very variable weather, for
+the last thirteen days.
+
+    "From world to world our steady course we keep,
+    Swift as the winds along the waters sweep,
+    Mid the mute nations of the purple deep."
+
+One night we observed that luminous appearance of the sea so often
+described, but it was not so brilliant as I remember to have seen it
+near the same latitude. The next morning we found the temperature of the
+sea, at the surface, two degrees higher than that of the atmosphere.
+Last night at 8 P. M. we crossed the line: to-day, accordingly, our
+Saturnalian festival took place.
+
+About six o'clock P. M. yesterday, the officer of the watch was informed
+that there was a boat with lights alongside, and begged to shorten sail.
+The captain immediately went on deck, and Neptune hailed from the fore
+part of the rigging, "What ship?" "Doris." "Who commands?" "Captain T.
+G." "Where from?" "Whitehall." "Where bound?" "A man of war's cruize."
+Upon which Triton mounted upon a sea-horse, admirably represented,
+appeared as bearer of a letter containing the names of all who had not
+yet crossed the line, and who were consequently to be initiated into the
+mysteries of the Water God. Triton having thus executed his commission,
+rode off, and was seen no more till 8 o'clock this morning, when Neptune
+being announced, the captain went on deck to receive him.
+
+First came Triton mounted as before, then a company of sea-gods or
+constables dressed in oakum and swabs, but having their arms and
+shoulders bare, excepting the paint which bedaubed them. Neptune with
+trident and crown, Amphitrite by his side, and their son at their feet,
+appeared in a car drawn by eight sea-horses, and driven by a sea god:
+the train followed in the persons of the lawyers, barbers, and painters.
+The whole pageant was well dressed, and going in procession, fully as
+picturesque as any antique triumphal or religious ceremony; the fine
+forms of some of the actors struck me exceedingly. I never saw marble
+more beautiful than some of the backs and shoulders displayed; and the
+singular clothing to imitate fishes instead of legs, and seaweed skirts,
+which they had all adopted, carried one back for centuries, to the time
+when all this was religion.
+
+After the progress round the decks, a conference with the captain, and a
+libation in the form of a glass of brandy, to which the god and goddess
+vied with each other in devotion, the merriment began. Mock-shaving, or
+a fine paid, was necessary to admit the new comers to the good graces of
+their watery father; and while he was superintending the business, all
+the rest of the ship's company, officers and all, proceeded to duck each
+other unmercifully. None but women escaped, and that only by staying in
+my cabin. The officer of the watch, sentries, quartermasters, and such
+as are absolutely necessary to look after the ship, are of course held
+sacred; so that some order is still preserved. It seemed really that
+"madness ruled the hour;" but at the appointed moment, half past eleven,
+all ceased: by noon, every body was at his duty, the decks were dried,
+and the ship restored to her wonted good order. The whole of our gunroom
+officers dine with us, and we flatter ourselves that we shall end the
+day as happily as we have begun it.[41]
+
+[Note 41: Frezier, who crossed the line, March 5th, 1712, says,
+"When it was no longer to be doubted that we were to the southward of
+the line, the foolish ceremony practised by all nations was not omitted.
+
+"The persons to be so served are seized by the wrists, to ropes
+stretched fore and aft on the second deck for the officers, and before
+the mast for the sailors; and after much mummery and monkey tricks, they
+are let loose, to be led after one another to the main mast, where they
+are made to swear on a sea chart that they will do by others as is done
+by them, according to the laws and statutes of navigation: then they pay
+to save being wetted, but always in vain, for the captains themselves
+are not quite spared."
+
+Jaques le Maire, the first who sailed round Cape Horn, mentions in his
+Journal, 8th July, 1615, baptizing the sailors when he arrived at the
+_Barrels_.--Has this any thing in common with the ceremony of crossing
+the line?]
+
+20th. The long tiresome calms, and the beautiful moonlight nights near
+the equator, have been talked of, and written of, till we know all about
+them. Mention but passing the line, and you conjure up a wide,
+apparently interminable, glassy dull sea: sails flapping, a solitary
+bird sinking with heat, or a shark rising lazily to catch a bait; or, at
+best, a calm warm night, with a soft moonlight silvering over the
+_treacherous_ deep, and rendering the beholders, who ought to be lovers
+if they are not, insensible of the rocks that may lurk below.--But our's
+was not the _beau id�al_ of crossing the line: we had fresh breezes in
+the day, and thunder and lightning at night; saw few tropic birds, and
+those very vigorous, and fish more nimble than sharks, or even sun-fish,
+of which, however, we met a due proportion. I had once been in a
+tropical calm, and I really, after trying them both, prefer the breezes
+and thunder-storms. The other night we had one, such as Milton talks of:
+
+      "Either tropic now
+    'Gan thunder, and both ends of heav'n: the clouds
+    From many a horrid rift abortive poured
+    Fierce rain with lightning mixt, water with fire
+    In ruin reconciled; nor slept the winds
+    Within their stoney caves, but rush'd abroad
+    From the four hinges of the world, and fell
+    On the vext wilderness."
+
+I never see a thunder-storm at sea, but it reminds me of the vision of
+Ezekiel:
+
+     "The sapphire blaze,
+    Where angels tremble while they gaze."
+
+It is awful and grand every where: fearful in the plain, sublime among
+the mountains; but here, on the ocean, with nothing to intercept its
+bolt, the horrible is superadded, and he must be more or less than man
+that does not at least take thought during its continuance.
+
+_Friday, September 21st._ At length we are in sight of the coast of
+Brazil, which here is low and green, about two degrees to the northward
+of the point first discovered by Vincente Pinzon, in 1500.[42] The
+weather is very squally, and there is a heavy swell: we are anchored
+about eight miles from Olinda, the capital of Pernambuco, in fifteen
+fathoms water, but though we have fired more than one gun for a pilot,
+none seems to be coming off.
+
+[Note 42: Cabral first took possession of the country which he
+called _that of the Holy Cross_, for the crown of Portugal; Amerigo
+Vespucci 1504, called it Brazil, on account of the wood.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Pernambuco, September 22. 1821._--At nine o'clock the commodore of this
+place, whose office is a combination of port-admiral and commissioner,
+came on board with the harbour-master, and the ship was guided by the
+latter to the anchorage, which is about three miles from the town, in
+eight fathoms water. The roadstead is quite open, and we find here a
+very heavy swell. It is not wonderful that our guns were neither
+answered nor noticed last night. Mr. Dance, having been sent on shore
+with official letters to the governor and the acting English consul,
+found the place in a state of siege, and brought back with him Colonel
+Patronhe, the governor's aide-de-camp, who gave us the following account
+of the present state of Pernambuco:
+
+Besides the disposition to revolution, which we were aware had long
+existed in every part of Brazil, there was, also, a jealousy between the
+Portuguese and Brazilians, which recent events had increased in no small
+degree. On the 29th of August, about 600 men of the militia and other
+native forces had taken possession of the Villa of Goyana, one of the
+principal places in this captaincy, and had forcibly entered the
+town-house, where they had declared the government of Luiz do Rego to be
+at an end. They proceeded to elect a temporary provisional government
+for Goyana, to act until the capital of the province should be in a
+condition to establish a constitutional junta; and in order to
+accelerate that event, they had collected forces of every kind, and
+among them several companies of the Ca�adores who had deserted from Luiz
+do Rego; with these troops, such as they are, they had marched towards
+Pernambuco, and last night they had attacked the two main points of
+Olinda, to the north, in four different places, and Affogados to the
+south. They were, however, repulsed by the royal troops, under the
+governor, with the loss of fourteen killed and thirty-five prisoners,
+while the royalists had two killed, and seven wounded. This morning the
+alarm of the town's people was increased by finding several armed men
+concealed in the belfreys of the churches, whither also they had
+conveyed several stands of arms. Luiz do Rego is a soldier, and attached
+to the royal cause. He served long with the English army in Portugal and
+Spain, and, if I mistake not, distinguished himself at the siege of St.
+Sebastian's. He is rather a severe man, and, especially among the
+soldiers, more feared than loved.--Great part of the regiment of
+Ca�adores has left him to join the patriots, and formed the most
+efficient corps in the attack last night. The towns-people have been
+formed into a militia, tolerably armed and trained. The town is pretty
+well supplied with mandioc flour, jerked beef, and salt fish; but the
+besiegers prevent all fresh provisions from coming in. All shops are
+shut, and all food scarce and dear. Most people who have property of
+value, in plate or jewels, have packed it up, and lodged it in the
+houses of the English merchants. Many persons with their wives and
+families have left their homes in the out-skirts of the town, and have
+taken refuge with the English. The latter, who, for the most part,
+sleep, at least, in country houses in the neighbourhood, called sitios,
+have left them, and remain altogether at their counting-houses in the
+port: every thing, in short, is alarm and uncertainty.
+
+_23d._--The night passed quietly, and so indeed did the day. Many
+messages have passed between us and the land, but I could not go on
+shore: we have excellent oranges, and tolerable vegetables from the
+town, and have been quite enough amused in observing the curious little
+boats, canoes, catamarans and jangadas, that have been sailing, and
+paddling, and rowing round the ship. The jangada resembles nothing I
+have ever seen before; six or eight logs are made fast together by two
+transverse beams; at one end there is a raised seat, on which a man
+places himself to steer, for they are furnished with a sort of rudder;
+sometimes the seat is large enough to admit of two sitters, another
+bench at the foot of a mast, immense for the size of the raft, holds
+clothes and provisions, or an upright pole is fixed in one of the logs,
+to which these things are suspended, and a large triangular sail of
+cotton cloth completes the jangada, in which the hardy Brazilian sailor
+ventures to sea, the waves constantly washing over it, and carries
+cargoes of cotton or other goods, or, in case of necessity, letters and
+despatches, hundreds of miles in safety.
+
+About three o'clock a large canoe with two patriot officers came along
+side, to ascertain if we were really English; if we had come, as was
+reported, to assist the royalists, or if we would assist them: so apt
+are men, under the influence of strong feeling themselves, to doubt of
+perfect indifference in others, that I question much whether they
+believed in the strict neutrality we profess. They left us, however,
+without betraying any particular anxiety, and made a very circuitous
+passage home, in order to avoid the Recife cruizer, which was looking
+out for straggling boats or vessels of any description belonging to the
+patriots.
+
+_Monday the 24th._--Col. Patronhe arrived early this morning, to request
+that the English packet might put into Lisbon with the Government
+despatches. We felt glad that the strict rules of service prevented the
+captain from giving any such order to the master of the packet. It would
+be at once a breach of that neutrality we profess to observe, and, in my
+opinion, an aiding of the worst cause. The colonel, adverting to the
+town being in a state of siege, and the uncertainty of the next attack
+as to time and place, advised me strongly to stay altogether on board;
+but I had never seen a town in a state of siege, and therefore resolved
+to go ashore. Accordingly, Mr. Dance, being the only officer on board
+who speaks either Portuguese or French, was commissioned to accompany
+me; and I took two midshipmen, Grey and Langford, also to call on Madame
+do Rego.
+
+The name of Pernambuco, which is that of the captainship, is now
+generally applied to the capital, which consists of two parts; 1st, the
+city of Olinda, which was founded by the Portuguese, under Duarte Coelho
+Pedreiro, about 1530 or 1540, and, as its name implies, on a beautiful
+spot, where moderate, but abrupt hills, a fine river, and thick wood,
+combine to charm the eye; but the approach to it by sea must always have
+been difficult, if not dangerous: and, 2nd, the town of Recife de
+Pernambuco, or the Reef of Pernambuco, built by the Dutch, under Maurice
+of Nassau, and by them called Maurice Town. It is a singular spot, well
+fitted for trade; it is situated upon several sand banks, divided by
+salt water creeks and the mouth of two fresh water rivers, connected by
+three bridges, and divided into as many parts; Recife, properly so
+called, where are the castles of defence, and the dock-yard, and the
+traders; Sant Antonio, where are the government house, the two principal
+churches, one for the white and one for the black population; and Boa
+Vista, where the richer merchants, or more idle inhabitants, live among
+their gardens, and where convents, churches, and the bishop's palace,
+give an air of importance to the very neat town around them.
+
+All this I knew before I landed, and thought I was pretty well prepared
+for Pernambuco. But no previous knowledge could do away the wonder with
+which one must enter that very extraordinary port. From the ship, which
+is anchored three miles from the town, we see that vessels lie within a
+reef on which the sea is perpetually breaking, but till I was actually
+within that reef, I had not the least idea of the nature of the harbour:
+the swell going ashore would have seemed tremendous, had we not been
+prepared for it, and made our passage of three miles a very long one. We
+approached the sandy beach between Recife and Olinda so nearly, that I
+thought we were going to land there; when coming abreast of a tower on a
+rock, where the sea was breaking violently, we turned short round, and
+found ourselves within a marvellous natural break-water, heard the surf
+dashing without, and saw the spray, but we ourselves were sailing along
+smoothly and calmly, as if in a mill-pond. The rock of which the reef is
+formed, is said to be coral; but it is so coated with barnacle and
+limpet above barnacle and limpet, that I can see nothing but the
+remainder of these shells for many feet down, and as deep into the rock
+as our hammers will break. It extends from a good way to the northward
+of Paraiba to Olinda, where it sinks under water, and then rises
+abruptly at Recife, and runs on to Cape St. Augustine, where it is
+interrupted by the bold granite head, that shoots through it into the
+ocean: it then reappears, and continues, interruptedly, towards the
+south. The breadth of the harbour here between the reef and the main
+land varies from a few fathoms to three quarters of a mile; the water is
+deep close to the rock, and there the vessels often moor. There is a bar
+at the entrance of the harbour, over which there is, in ordinary tides,
+sixteen feet water, so that ships of considerable burden lie here.[43]
+His Majesty's brig Alacrity lay some time within the reef; and two feet
+more water on the bar, would have enabled the Doris to have entered,
+though, as far as I have seen, there would be no room to turn about if
+she wished to go out again. The reef is certainly one of the wonders of
+the world; it is scarcely sixteen feet broad at top. It slopes off more
+rapidly than the Plymouth break-water, to a great depth on the outside,
+and is perpendicular within, to many fathoms. Here and there, a few
+inequalities at the top must formerly have annoyed the harbour in high
+tides or strong winds, but Count Maurice remedied this, by laying huge
+blocks of granite into the faulty places, and has thus rendered the top
+level, and the harbour safe at all times. The Count had intended to
+build warehouses along the reef, but his removal from the government
+prevented his doing so. A small fort near the entrance defends it, and
+indeed always must, so narrow and sudden is the passage. Near it, a
+light-house is in a fair way of being soon finished, at the very
+extremity of the reef, and these are the only two buildings on this
+extraordinary line of rock. We rowed up the harbour among vessels of all
+nations, with the town on one side, and the reef on the other, until we
+came to one of the wide creeks, over which the Dutch built a fine stone
+bridge, now in decay. We were a a good deal struck with the beauty of
+the scene; the buildings are pretty large, and white; the land low and
+sandy, spotted with bright green tufts of grass, and adorned with
+palm-trees. A few years ago a violent flood nearly destroyed the greater
+part of the centre of the bridge, yet the arches still serve to support
+light wooden galleries on each side of it, and the houses and gateways
+are still standing at either end. We landed pretty near the bridge, and
+were received by Colonel Patronhe, who apologised for the governor, who
+could not come to receive us, as he was in the council room.[44] The
+colonel conducted us to the government house, a very handsome building,
+with a square in front, and a tower, and we entered what had evidently
+been a splendid hall. The gilding and painting still remained on some
+parts of the ceiling and walls; but now it is occupied by horses
+standing ready saddled; soldiers armed, and ready to mount at a moment's
+warning; every thing on the alert; guns in front with lighted matches by
+them, and an air of bustle and importance among the soldiers, that
+excites a sort of sympathetic curiosity as to their possible and
+immediate destination. On going up stairs we found almost as much
+confusion: for the governor has hitherto lived in the very out-skirts of
+the town, and has but just come to the house in Sant Antonio, which was
+formerly the Jesuits' college, partly to be in the centre of business,
+and partly to secure his family, in case of accident, as the besiegers'
+out-posts are very near his former residence. I found Madame do Rego an
+agreeable, rather pretty woman, and speaking English like a native: for
+this she accounted, by informing me that her mother, the Visconde�a do
+Rio Seco, was an Irish woman. Nothing could be kinder and more
+flattering than her manner, and that of General do Rego's two daughters,
+whose air and manner are those of really well-bred women, and one of
+them is very handsome. After sitting some little time, refreshments were
+brought in, and shortly after, the governor himself appeared; a fine
+military-looking man. He appeared ill, being still suffering from the
+effects of a wound, he received some months ago, while walking through
+the town with a friend. It has since been ascertained, that the
+instigator of the crime was a certain Ouvidor (judge) whom he had
+displaced shortly after he assumed the government. The assassin fired
+twice; Luiz do Rego received several shots and slugs in his body, but
+the most severe wound was in his left arm. His friend's life was for
+some time despaired of, but both are now nearly well. At the time the
+crime was committed, the perpetrator was seized more than once by some
+of the bye-standers; but as often, a baker's basket was pushed in
+between him and whoever seized him; he threw away his pistols and
+escaped.[45]
+
+[Note 43: In 1816, under the governor, Monte Negro, the harbour was
+cleared and deepened, and particularly the bar.]
+
+[Note 44: The council or junta of provisional government consisted
+of ten members, of which Luiz do Rego was the head; they were drawing up
+an address to the inhabitants of Recife, assuring them of safety and
+protection; exulting in the advantage gained in the night, and asserting
+that there were plenty of provisions within the town; and encouraging
+them in the name of the king and cortes, to defend the city against the
+insurgents, who were of course branded with the names of enemies to the
+king and country.]
+
+[Note 45: Luiz do Rego was not the first governor of Pernambuco who
+had been shot at. In 1710, when Sebastian de Castro, in conformity to
+his orders from Lisbon, had erected a pillar, and declared Recife a
+town, San Antonio da Recife, the Olindrians shot him on his walk to Boa
+Vista, in four places. The Ouvidor was one of the conspirators. The
+bishop had a share in this unchristian action. The object of the people
+of Olinda and of the assassin's party was, to confine Recife to its own
+parish, extending only to the Affogados on one side, and Fort Brun on
+the other.]
+
+Having paid our visit, we proceeded to walk about the town. The streets
+are paved partly with blueish pebbles from the beach, partly with red or
+grey granite. The houses are three or four stories high, built of a
+whitish stone, and all are white-washed, with door-posts and
+window-frames of brown stone. The ground floor consists of shops, or
+lodging for the negroes, and stables: the floor above is generally
+appropriated to counting-houses and ware-rooms; and the dwelling-house
+still higher, the kitchen being universally at the top, by which means
+the lower part of the house is kept cool, I was surprised to find it so
+possible to walk out without inconvenience from the heat, so near the
+equator; but the constant sea-breeze, which sets in here every day at
+ten o'clock, preserves a temperature, under which it is at all times
+possible to take exercise. The hot time of day is from eight, when the
+land breeze fails, to ten. As we were to pass the stone bridge on our
+way back to the boat, which was ordered to meet us at the point of
+Recife, because the receding tide would have left it dry in the creek
+where we landed; we left it on one hand, and walked through Sant Antonio
+towards Boa Vista. When we came to the wooden bridge, 350 paces long,
+connecting it with Sant Antonio, we found that it had been cut through
+the middle, and is only now passable by means of two planks easily
+withdrawn, in case the besiegers should get possession of Boa Vista.
+Nothing can be prettier of its kind than the fresh green landscape, with
+its broad river winding through it, which is seen on each hand from the
+bridge, and the white buildings of the treasury and mint, the convents,
+and private houses, most of which have gardens. The verdure is
+delightful to an English eye; and I doubt not that the flat meadows, and
+slowly-flowing water, were particularly attractive to the Dutch founders
+of Recife. We walked back by the stone bridge, 280 paces long, as we
+intended; in vain did we look for shops; not one was open, the
+shopkeepers being all on military duty. They form the militia, and, as
+many of them are from Europe, and as they all expect to be plundered
+should the country Brazilians take the town by force, they are most
+zealous in their attendance as soldiers.
+
+At each end of every street we found a light gun, and at the heads of
+the bridges two, with lighted matches by them, and at each post we were
+challenged by the guard. At the end of the stone bridge, at the ponte
+dos tres pontes[46], next to Recife, the guards are more numerous and
+strict. In this quarter, the chief riches of the place are lodged, and
+that is the point most easily defended. It is very nearly surrounded
+with water, the houses are high, strongly built, and close together, the
+streets being very narrow, and the strong gateways at each end of the
+bridge might secure time to demolish it entirely, and thus render that
+part of the town secure, except by the sand bank communicating with
+Olinda, and that is guarded by two considerable forts.
+
+[Note 46: A little fort which defends the entrance to Recife.]
+
+We had hardly gone fifty paces into Recife, when we were absolutely
+sickened by the first sight of a slave-market. It was the first time
+either the boys or I had been in a slave-country; and, however strong
+and poignant the feelings may be at home, when imagination pictures
+slavery, they are nothing compared to the staggering sight of a
+slave-market. It was thinly stocked, owing to the circumstances of the
+town; which cause most of the owners of new slaves to keep them closely
+shut up in the dep�ts. Yet about fifty young creatures, boys and girls,
+with all the appearance of disease and famine consequent upon scanty
+food and long confinement in unwholesome places, were sitting and lying
+about among the filthiest animals in the streets. The sight sent us home
+to the ship with the heart-ache: and resolution, "not loud but deep,"
+that nothing in our power should be considered too little, or too great,
+that can tend to abolish or to alleviate slavery.
+
+_27th._--I went on shore to-day to spend a few days with Miss S., the
+only English lady in the town. She is now living in her brother's
+town-house, where the office and warehouses are, because the
+country-house is within reach of the patriots. I do long to walk or ride
+out to the tempting green hills beyond the town; but as that cannot be,
+I must content myself with what is within the lines. To-day, as we were
+coming in from Boa Vista, we met a family of Certanejos, who had brought
+provisions into the town some days ago, returning home to the Certam, or
+wild country of the interior. These Certanejos are a hardy, active set
+of men, mostly agriculturists. They bring corn and pulse, bacon and
+sweetmeats, to the sea-coast, hides and tallow also at times. But the
+sugar, cotton, and coffee, which form the staple exports of Pernambuco,
+require the warmer, richer lands, nearer the coast. Cotton is, however,
+brought from the Certam, but it is a precarious crop, depending entirely
+on the quantity of rain in the season; and it sometimes does not rain in
+the Certam for two years. The party we met formed a very picturesque
+groupe, the men clad in leather from head to foot, of which their light
+jerkin and close pantaloons are fitted as closely as the clothing on the
+Egina marbles, and have something of the same effect: the small round
+hat is in the form of Mercury's petasus; and the shoes and gaiters of
+the greater number are excellently adapted to defend the legs and feet
+in riding through the thickets. The colour of all this is a fine tan
+brown. I was vexed that the woman of the party wore a dress evidently of
+French fashion: it spoiled the unity of the groupe. She was mounted
+behind the principal man, on one of the small active horses of the
+country; several sumpter horses followed, laden with household goods and
+other things in exchange for their provisions: cloths, both woollen and
+cotton, coarse crockery, and other manufactured articles, especially
+knives, are what they chiefly take in barter; though I saw some
+furniture, with pretensions to elegance, among the stuff of the family I
+met. After the horses came a groupe of men, some walking and keeping
+pace with the amble of the beasts; others riding and carrying the
+children; the procession being closed by a very stout good-looking man,
+smoking as he went along, and distinguished by a pair of green baize
+trowsers.
+
+In the evening we rode out; whether it was because we had been so many
+weeks on board ship, and without horse-exercise, or because of the
+peculiar sweetness and freshness of evening after the sultry tropical
+day we had just passed, I know not, but I never enjoyed an hour in the
+open air so much. We rode out of the town by some pretty country-houses,
+called _sitios_, to one of the out-posts at Mondego, which was formerly
+the governor's residence. The tamarind, the silk-cotton tree[47], and
+the palm, shaded us, and a thousand elegant shrubs adorned the garden
+walls. It is impossible to describe the fresh delicious feel of such an
+evening, giving repose and health after the fiery day. We were very
+sorry when obliged to return home; but the sun was gone, there was no
+moon, and we were afraid that the guards at the various posts of defence
+might stop us. As we came back, we were challenged at every station; but
+the words, _amigos ingresos_ were our passport, and we got to Recife
+just as the evening hymn was singing, harshly and unmusically enough, by
+the negroes and mulattoes in the streets; but yet every thing that
+unites men in one common sentiment is interesting. The church doors were
+open, the altars illuminated, and the very slave felt that he was
+addressing the same Deity, by the same privilege with his master. It is
+an evening I can never forget.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 47: Bombex pentandrium. _Jaquin._]
+
+_28th._--This morning before breakfast, looking from the balcony of Mr.
+S.'s house, I saw a white woman, or rather fiend, beating a young
+negress, and twisting her arms cruelly while the poor creature screamed
+in agony, till our gentlemen interfered. Good God! that such a traffic,
+such a practice as that of slavery, should exist. Near the house there
+are two or three dep�ts of slaves, all young; in one, I saw an infant of
+about two years old, for sale. Provisions are now so scarce that no bit
+of animal food ever seasons the paste of mandioc flour, which is the
+sustenance of slaves: and even of this, these poor children, by their
+projecting bones and hollow cheeks, show that they seldom get a
+sufficiency. Now, money also is so scarce, that a purchaser is not
+easily found, and one pang is added to slavery: the unavailing wish of
+finding a master! Scores of these poor creatures are seen at different
+corners of the streets, in all the listlessness of despair--and if an
+infant attempts to crawl from among them, in search of infantile
+amusement, a look of pity is all the sympathy he excites. Are the
+patriots wrong? They have put arms into the hands of the _new_ negroes,
+while the recollection of their own country, and of the slave-ship, and
+of the slave-market, is fresh in their memory.
+
+I walked to-day to the market-place, where there is but little;--beef
+scarce and dear, no mutton, a little poultry, and a few pigs,
+disgusting, because they feed in the streets where every thing is
+thrown, and where they and the dogs are the only scavengers. The
+blockade is so strict, that even the vegetables from the gentlemen's
+private gardens, two miles from the out-posts, are detained. No milk is
+to be had, bread of American flour is at least twice as dear as in
+England, and the cakes of mandioc baked with cocoa nut juice, too dear
+for the common people to afford a sufficiency even of them. Fire-wood
+is extravagantly high, charcoal scarce. The negroes keep the markets: a
+few on their own account, more on that of their masters. The dress of
+the free negroes is like that of the creole Portuguese; a linen jacket
+and trowsers, or on days of ceremony one of cloth, and a straw hat,
+furnish forth either a black or a white gentleman. The women, in-doors,
+wear a kind of frock which leaves the bosom much exposed. When they walk
+out they wear either a cloak or mantle; this cloak is often of the
+gayest colours; shoes also, which are the mark of freedom, are to be
+seen of every hue, but black. Gold chains for the neck and arms, and
+gold ear-rings, with a flower in the hair, complete a Pernambucan
+woman's dress. The new negroes, men and women, have nothing but a cloth
+round their loins. When they are bought, it is usual to give the women a
+shift and petticoat, and the men at least trowsers, but this is very
+often omitted.
+
+Yesterday the motley head-dresses of the Portuguese inhabitants were
+seen to great advantage, in a sally through the streets, made by a kind
+of supplementary militia to enforce the closing of all shop-doors, and
+the shutting up of all slaves, on an alarm that the enemy was attacking
+the town to the southward. The officer leading the party was indeed
+dressed _en militaire_, with a drawn sword in one hand, and a pistol in
+the other. Then followed a company that Falstaff would hardly have
+enlisted, armed in a suitable manner, with such caps and hats as became
+the variety of trades to which the wearers belonged, the rear being
+brought up by a most singular figure, with a small drum-shaped black cap
+on the very top of a stiff pale head, a long oil-skin cloak, and in his
+left hand a huge Toledo ready drawn, which he carried upright. The
+militia are better dressed, and are now employed in regular turn of duty
+with the royal troops, who are going over to the patriots daily.
+
+Calling at the palace this forenoon, we learned that a hundred Indians
+are expected in the town, by way of assistance to the garrison. They
+wear their aboriginal dress, and are armed with slings, bows, and
+arrows. We are told their ideas of government consist in believing that
+implicit obedience is due both to king and priests. Brandy is the bribe
+for which they will do any thing; a dram of that liquor and a handful of
+mandioc flour being all the food they require when they come down to the
+port.
+
+This evening, as there are no horses to be hired here, we borrowed some
+from our English and French friends, and rode to Olinda by the long
+sandy isthmus, which connects it with Recife. This is the isthmus
+fortified with a palisade, by Sir John Lancaster, during his stay at
+Recife, which he plundered.[48] The beach is defended by two castles,
+sufficiently strong when their situation is considered; on one side a
+furious surf breaking at their base, on the other a deep estuary and
+flat ground beyond, so that they cannot be commanded. The sand is
+partially covered by shrubs; one is very splendid with thick leaves and
+purple bell-shaped flowers; many are like those of the eastern world;
+many are quite new to me. I was surprised at the extreme beauty of
+Olinda, or rather of its remains, for it is now in a melancholy state of
+ruin. All the richer inhabitants have long settled in the lower town.
+The revenues of the bishopric being now claimed by the crown, and the
+monasteries suppressed for the most part, even the factitious splendour
+caused by the ecclesiastical courts and inhabitants is no more. The very
+college where the youths received some sort of education, however
+imperfect, is nearly ruined[49], and there is scarcely a house of any
+size standing.
+
+[Note 48: See Introduction, p. 20.]
+
+[Note 49: This was the Jesuits' college founded under the
+administration of the admirable father Nobrega, and his companion De
+Gram. Here at eighteen years' old the celebrated Viera read lectures on
+rhetoric, and composed those commentaries on some of the classics, which
+were unfortunately lost in the course of the civil wars.]
+
+Olinda is placed on a few small hills, whose sides are in some
+directions broken down, so as to present the most abrupt and picturesque
+rock-scenery. These are embosomed in dark woods that seem coeval with
+the land itself: tufts of slender palms, here and there the broad head
+of an ancient mango, or the gigantic arms of the wide spreading
+silk-cotton tree, rise from out the rest in the near ground, and break
+the line of forest: amidst these, the convents, the cathedral, the
+bishop's palace, and the churches of noble, though not elegant
+architecture, are placed in stations which a Claude or a Poussin might
+have chosen for them; some stand on the steep sides of rocks, some on
+lawns that slope gently to the sea-shore: their colour is grey or pale
+yellow, with reddish tiles, except here and there where a dome is
+adorned with porcelain tiles of white and blue. Just as we reached the
+highest point of the town, looking across the woody bason round which
+the hills are grouped, the smoke from one of the out-posts caught our
+sight. The soldiers were standing or lying around, and their arms piled
+by them: they were just shadowed by tall trees behind, between whose
+trunks the scattered rays of the setting sun shed such a partial light
+as Salvator Rosa himself would not have disdained. These same soldiers,
+however, circumscribed our ride: we had intended to return by the inland
+road, but were not allowed to pass into it, as part, at least, lies
+without the posts, therefore we were obliged to return by the way we
+came.
+
+At the spot where the present guard is placed, and where indeed a strong
+guard is peculiarly necessary, the river Bibiriba falls into the
+�stuary, which was formerly the port of Olinda. A dam is built across
+with flood-gates which are occasionally opened; and on the dam there is
+a very pretty open arcade, where the neighbouring inhabitants were
+accustomed in peaceable times to go in the evening, and eat, drink, and
+dance. It is from this dam that all the good water used in Recife is
+daily conveyed in water-canoes, which come under the dam called the
+Varadouro, and are filled from twenty-three pipes, led so as to fill the
+canoes at once, without farther trouble. We saw seven-and-twenty of
+these little boats laden, paddle down the creek with the tide towards
+the town. A single oar used rather as rudder than paddle guides the tank
+to the middle of the stream, where it floats to its destination.
+
+The sun was low, long before we reached even the first of the two
+castles on our way back to the fort. The dogs had already begun their
+work of abomination. I saw one drag the arm of a negro from beneath the
+few inches of sand, which his master had caused to be thrown over his
+remains. It is on this beach that the measure of the insults dealt to
+the poor negroes is filled. When the negro dies, his fellow-slaves lay
+him on a plank, carry him to the beach, where beneath high-water mark
+they hoe a little sand over him; but to the new negro even this mark of
+humanity is denied. He is tied to a pole, carried out in the evening and
+dropped upon the beach, where it is just possible the surf may bear him
+away. These things sent us home sad and spiritless, notwithstanding the
+agreeable scenes we had been riding among.
+
+_29th_. The feast of St. Michael's has drawn out the Portuguese
+gentlewomen, of whom we had not yet seen one walking in the streets. The
+favourite dress seems to be black, with white shoes and white or
+coloured ribbons and flowers in the hair, with a mantle of lace or
+gauze, either black or white. We have seen a few priests too for the
+first time. I think the edict desiring them to keep within their convent
+walls, is in consequence of their being among the fomentors of the
+spirit of independence. The appropriation of so much of the church
+revenue by the court of Lisbon is of course unpopular among the clergy
+of the country; and it is not difficult for them to represent, what
+indeed is truth, to the people, that the drawing of so much treasure
+from the country to support Lisbon, which can neither govern nor protect
+them now, is a rational ground of complaint. It is said, that the morals
+of the clergy here are most depraved. This is probably true. Men cut off
+by vows like those of the Roman clergy, from the active charities of
+social life, have only the resources of science and literature against
+their passions and vices. But here the very names of literature and
+science are almost unknown. The college and library of Olinda are in
+decay. There is not one bookseller in Pernambuco, and the population of
+its different parishes amounts to 70,000 souls! A tolerably well written
+newspaper, of which I have not been able to procure the first number,
+was set up in March, under the title of "Aurora Pernambucana," with the
+following motto from Camoens:
+
+    Depois da procellosa tempestade,
+    Nocturna sombra e sibilante vento,
+    Tras a manha serena e claridade,
+    Esperan�a de porto e salvamiente:
+
+alluding to the arrival of the news of the revolution in Portugal, on
+the 26th of that month, and the swearing of the governor, magistrates,
+&c. to adhere to the constitution as established by the Cortes. I am
+sorry to say that this only paper has been discontinued for the two last
+months, the editor having, as it seems, become a secretary of
+government, and having no longer time to superintend the press.[50]
+
+[Note 50: Not only has this paper been continued since, but others
+are now published in Recife.]
+
+_30th._--Last night the patriot troops attacked the line of defence at
+Olinda for four hours, but I do not believe there was any loss on either
+side. This morning a Portuguese frigate, the Don Pedro, with troops from
+Bahia, arrived. The reinforcement of 350 men, partly European, partly
+Bahian, has put the inhabitants, from the governor downwards, into the
+highest spirits; so that for once we see Pernambuco active, and
+cheerful, and alive. Men and women are out in their gayest habits, and
+the military are running and riding in all directions, not a little
+pleased to have some to relieve them in their constant watch and ward.
+
+Among other things which I learned by looking on, while the elders of
+families were engaged in the streets with the new-comers, was that the
+young Pernambucans are as dexterous in the use of signs as the Turkish
+lovers themselves, and that often a courtship is carried on in this way,
+and a marriage settled, without the parties having ever heard each
+other's voices. However, the general mode is for parents to settle their
+children's nuptials, without consulting any thing but pecuniary
+convenience.
+
+This day several of the officers and midshipmen of the Doris accompanied
+us to dine at the governor's, at half-past four o'clock. Our welcome
+was most cordial. His excellency took one end of the table, and an
+aide-de-camp the other: I was seated between M. and Madame do Rego. He
+seemed happy to talk of his old English friends of the Peninsula, with
+many of whom I am acquainted; and she had a thousand enquiries to make
+about England, whither she is very anxious to go. They apologised for
+having so little plate, but their handsome services were packed up in an
+English store-house, together with her excellency's jewels and other
+precious things. The cookery was a mixture of Portuguese and French.
+After the soup, a dish was handed round of boiled lean beef, slices of
+fat salt pork, and sausages, and with this dish, rice boiled with oil
+and sweet herbs. Roast beef was presented, in compliment to the English,
+very little roasted. Salads, and fish of various kinds, were dressed in
+a peculiar manner; poultry and other things in the French fashion.
+
+The dessert was served on another table. Besides our European dessert of
+fruit, cakes, and wine, all the puddings, pies, and tarts, formed part
+of it. It was decorated with flowers, and there was a profusion of
+sugar-plums of every kind. The company rose from the dining-table, and
+adjourned to the other, which Madame do Rego told me should have been
+spread in a separate apartment; but they have so recently taken
+possession of their house, that they have not one yet fitted up for the
+purpose. The governor and his guests proposed many toasts
+alternately--The King of England, the King of Portugal, the navy of
+England, the King of France[51], Luis do Rego, and the captaincy of
+Pernambuco, &c.--When we all rose at once from table; some of the
+company went on board ship, but most adjourned to the drawing-room, a
+comfortable apartment, furnished with blue satin damask, where we were
+joined by the French naval officers of His Most Christian Majesty's ship
+Sappho, and several ladies and gentlemen of the city. We had some
+excellent music. Madame do Rego has an admirable voice, and there were
+several good singers and players on the piano. It was a more pleasant,
+polished evening than I had expected to pass in Pernambuco, especially
+now in a state of siege.
+
+[Note 51: Mr. Lain�, the very pleasing and gentlemanlike French
+consul, was present.]
+
+_Wednesday, 3d October._--I went on board on Monday, and, provokingly
+enough, the patriots chose that very night to make an attack upon the
+out-post of the Affogadas, so I did not see the governor, at the head of
+his troops, march out to meet them; nor did I hear the national hymn
+sung by the regiments as they filed along on their return from a
+successful sally.[52] Yesterday, nothing occurred worth noting; we had
+the consul and British merchants on board to dinner, and the day passed
+as such days usually do.
+
+[Note 52: Since writing my Journal, I have seen the official account
+of this attack on the Villa of the Affagados. It was a well planned
+expedition; but the raw troops were easily driven out of the villa of
+which they had already possessed themselves, by throwing a bridge over a
+branch of the Capabaribe, by the veteran soldiers of Do Rego.
+
+The same morning, i.e. that of the 1st of October, the provisional junta
+of Pernambuco had addressed that of the patriots of Goyana, offering
+peace, saying, that as their avowed object was the dismissal of L. do
+Rego, he was ready to withdraw himself; that he had twice offered the
+council of Recife to do so, and had besides sent to the Cortes to beg
+they would appoint a successor, and allow him to retire; that his motive
+for this was the desire of peace, and of procuring the tranquillity of
+the province, so disturbed by these civil broils. They tell the patriots
+also, that the Don Pedro is arrived, and assure them that the troops
+brought by the frigate shall be employed only in the defence of Recife.
+They also intimate, that they are sure of assistance from the French and
+English frigates then there, such assistance having been offered, on the
+ground of the English and French property in the place. Now I know that
+no such assistance was offered by the English frigate. It was asked; but
+a strict neutrality had been enjoined by the government, all
+interference was refused, and no more was offered than _personal_
+protection to either English, French, or Portuguese; and of course
+protection for English property being the purpose for which the frigate
+was there, was understood by all parties.]
+
+Having learned that the patriots have refused to allow the linen
+belonging to the ship, which had been sent to the country to be washed,
+to return to the town, it was determined that we should send to their
+head-quarters, and remonstrate against this very inconvenient mode of
+annoying the port. I obtained leave to accompany the messengers, and
+accordingly we all went on shore immediately after breakfast. Our first
+business was to procure passports, and to learn the countersigns; after
+which Capt. Graham, with Col. Cottar, the governor's principal
+aide-de-camp, rode with us to the out-posts, where we left them, with an
+intention of returning to dine at Mr. Stewart's, to meet Luis do Rego's
+family. Our party consisted of M. Caumont, to act as interpreter, Mr.
+Dance, bearing the letter, my cousin Mr. Glennie as my cavalier, and
+myself. It was the first time we had had an opportunity of passing the
+lines, and we felt like school-boys who had stolen beyond bounds, and
+well we might; the scenery was fresh and lovely, and the day as fine as
+possible.
+
+Pernambuco is not a walled town, but broad rapid rivers and �stuaries
+surround it, and it is only approachable by the roads and causeways; the
+banks thrown up across these, for present defence, are such as might
+stop the Brazilian cavalry for a few minutes, or afford cover for
+musketry; but their best defence is the swamp at the mouth of the
+Capabaribe, which is flooded at high water, and which extends nearly to
+the Bibiribi. At the edge of the swamp there is a wooden palisade, where
+we left the last post of the royalists, and took leave of our friends,
+who had accompanied us so far. After riding across the marsh, which by
+the by is very fit for rice ground, and is surrounded by cocoa-nut and
+tamarind trees, we came to the main stream of the Capabaribe, a deep,
+broad, and very rapid river; its sides are steep, and the water
+beautifully clear[53]: its banks are studded with country-houses, and
+adorned with groves and gardens, for the present abandoned by their
+owners, who have taken refuge in Recife.
+
+[Note 53: The Capabaribe has a course of about fifty leagues, but is
+only navigable to about six miles from the sea, on account of rapids and
+falls in the upper part; it has two mouths, one at Recife, and the other
+at Os Affogados. Chor. Braz.]
+
+The hedges on each side of the road are woven of palm-leaves, and where
+not quite new, are covered with all splendid creeping plants; the common
+and winged passion-flower, white, blue, and yellow clematis, jasmine,
+china-rose, and many others, both gay and sweet. The ditches, too, were
+full of colour, but we rode too fast to stay to collect plants; and I
+could only promise myself, at some future time, to gather one that
+appeared like a bog bean, but its colour bright purple.
+
+About two miles from Do Rego's last out-post, we came to the first post
+of the patriots, at a country-house on a rising ground, where arms piled
+at the door, and a sort of ragged guard, consisting of a merry-looking
+negro with a fowling-piece, a Brazilian with a blunderbuss, and two or
+three of doubtful colour with sticks, swords pistols, &c., told us an
+officer was to be found. After a few minutes parley, we found he was not
+authorised to receive our letter, so we rode on under the direction of
+the old Brazilian with his blunderbuss, who, being on foot, threatened
+to shoot us if we attempted to ride faster than he walked. The slow pace
+at which we advanced gave us leisure to remark the beauties of a
+Brazilian spring. Gay plants, with birds still gayer hovering over them,
+sweet smelling flowers, and ripe oranges and citrons, formed a beautiful
+fore-ground to the very fine forest-trees that cover the plains, and
+clothe the sides of the low hills in the neighbourhood of Pernambuco.
+Here and there a little space is cleared for the growth of mandioc,
+which at this season is perfectly green: the wooden huts of the
+cultivators are generally on the road-side, and, for the most part, each
+has its little grove of mango and orange-trees. At one of these little
+homesteads, we found a pretty large guard-house, established where four
+roads meet, and there our foot guide left us, and a gentlemanlike young
+officer, of the Brazilian Ca�adores, rode with us, and entertained us by
+calling Luis do Rego a tyrant, and attributing the siege of Pernambuco
+entirely to the governor's obstinacy, in not joining the people of the
+province in throwing off the dominion of his master. Round the
+guard-house a number of negro girls, with broad flat baskets on their
+heads, were selling fruit and cold water: they had decked their woolly
+hair, and the edges of their baskets, with garlands of the scarlet
+althaea; their light blue or white cloaks were thrown gracefully across
+their dusky shoulders, and white jackets, so that it was such a picture
+as the early Spaniards might have drawn of their Eldorado.
+
+After riding a few miles, we came suddenly to the foot of an abrupt
+hill, on whose sides there were scattered groups of the most magnificent
+trees I ever beheld. There we were met by a small military party, which,
+after a parley with our guide, rather ordered, than invited us to ride
+up. In a few seconds, we came to a steep yellow sandstone bank, shaded
+on one side by tall trees, and open on the other to a lake surrounded
+by woody hills, on the most distant of which, the white buildings of
+Olinda sparkled like snow. On the top of the bank, and in the act of
+descending, was a group of forty horsemen, one of the foremost of whom
+bore a white banner; several were dressed in splendid military habits,
+others in the plain costume of the landed proprietors. These were
+deputies from Paraiba on their way to propose terms to Luis do Rego;
+they had just left the head-quarters of the besieging army, where the
+provisional government of Goyana is stationed, and were accompanied by a
+guard of honour: after exchanging civilities, part of the guard turned
+back with us, and the deputies went on their way. Having reached the top
+of the hill, we found about a hundred men, tolerably well armed, but
+strangely dressed, awaiting us; and there we were detained till our
+guide rode forward to ask leave to bring us to head-quarters. I was
+sorry I had no means of sketching any part of the beautiful landscape,
+which, besides the striking features I have mentioned before, now
+displayed a broad river, over which there is a white stone bridge of
+several arches; at one end, a large house, more like a palace, with its
+arches and corridors, and the encampment of the army and the horse
+picquets, and, in short, a bustle and animation that seldom happen to
+adorn so fine a scene. Our guide soon returned with eighteen or twenty
+mounted soldiers, whose appearance was rather wild than military: the
+guard presented arms as we parted from them, and we soon cantered down
+the hill towards the main body of the troops. Not above two hundred had
+the arms or accoutrements of soldiers; but there were dresses and
+weapons of every kind, leather, cloth, and linen; short jackets and long
+Scotch plaids, and every tint of colour in their faces, from the sallow
+European to the ebony African. Military honours were paid us by these
+ragged regiments, and we were conducted to the palace square, where Mr.
+Dance and Mr. Caumont dismounted, and I determined to await the issue of
+their conference, with my cousin in the court.
+
+This, however, was not permitted. In a few minutes, a smart little man,
+speaking tolerable French, came and told me the _government_ desired my
+company. I suspected a mistake of the word government for governor, and
+endeavoured to decline the honour; but no denial could be taken, and the
+little man, who told me he was secretary to government, accordingly
+assisted me to dismount, and showed me the way to the palace. The hall
+was filled with men and horses, like a barrack stable, excepting a
+corner which served as an hospital for those wounded in the late
+skirmishes, the groans of the latter mingling uncouthly with the
+soldiers' cheerful noisy voices. The stairs were so crowded, that we got
+up with difficulty, and then I found that I was indeed to be confronted
+with the whole strength of the provisional government. At the end of a
+long dirty room, that had once been handsome, as the form of the windows
+and carving of the panels on which there were traces of colour and
+gilding, indicated, there was an old black hair sofa, on the centre of
+which I was placed, with Mr. Dance on one side, and Mr. Glennie on the
+other; by Mr. Dance sat the little secretary, and next to him our
+interpreter, in old-fashioned high-backed chairs; the rest of the
+furniture of the room consisted of nine seats of different sizes and
+forms, placed in a semicircle fronting the sofa, and on each of these
+sat one of the members of the junta of the provisional government, who
+act the part of senators or generals, as the occasion may require. To
+each of these I was introduced; the names of Albuquerque, Cavalcante,
+and Broderod, struck me, but I heard imperfectly, and forget most of
+them: some wore handsome military coats, others the humbler dress of
+farmers. They politely told me they would not read the letter while I
+was waiting below, but as soon as we were seated, the secretary read it
+aloud. Instead of taking any notice of its contents, the secretary began
+a long discourse, setting forth the injustice of the Portuguese governor
+and government towards Brazil in general, and the Pernambucans in
+particular; that in order to resist that injustice, they had formed the
+present respectable government, pointing to the junta, without intending
+the least detriment to the rights of the king. That surely they could
+not be called rebels, as they marched under the royal flag of Portugal;
+but Luis do Rego might be reasonably stigmatised as such, for he had
+fired on that banner. He then went off into a long harangue upon the
+general principles of government; but as I understood little of the
+language, much of it was lost upon me, as well as on my companions; but
+I have no doubt that it served to impress the respectable junta with a
+higher idea of their secretary's understanding and eloquence:
+altogether, the speech reminded me of some of the best written of the
+Carbonari addresses of Italy; and there was something in the air,
+manner, and scene, not unlike what one imagines of the Barraca meetings
+of those ill-guided, misused people.[54] We then talked a great deal in
+French to the secretary, who repeated every word to the respectable
+junta, and at length got him to attend to a proposal for releasing our
+linen, and another for supplying the ship with fresh provisions. We had
+been paying forty dollars per bullock in the town; they agreed that
+their price should not exceed ten, if we sent boats to the Rio Doce, or
+Paratije[55] for them. This is the mouth of a small stream on the
+northside of Olinda. And I must not omit to mention, that they offered
+to allow us to take off fresh provisions for our English or French
+friends in the town.
+
+[Note 54: I regret exceedingly that I was then so ignorant of the
+language. I have since learned that there were many causes of particular
+grievance in this province. I do not mean to speak disrespectfully of
+the popular meetings of Brazil; they had all in view the best objects,
+national independence and civil liberty under reformed laws. The first
+object has been secured to them by their constitutional emperor, the
+last is growing up under his government; time only can perfect it. Happy
+would it have been for Italy, if its popular meetings had possessed the
+mild character of those of Brazil, and still happier, had they found in
+their prince a defender and protector.]
+
+[Note 55: At Rio Doce, Brito Freire and Pedro Jaques landed to
+assist Vieyra in the recovery of Pernambuco. See p. 25. of the
+Introduction.]
+
+The junta was extremely anxious to learn if there was a probability of
+England's acknowledging the independence of Brazil, or if she took part
+at all in the struggle; and many were the questions, and very variously
+were they shaped, which the secretary addressed to us on that head. They
+are of course violent in their language concerning Luis do Rego, in
+proportion as he has done his military duty, in keeping them at bay
+with his handful of men: and like all oppositions they can afford to
+reason upon general principles, because they have not to feel the
+hindrances of action, and the jarring of private interests in the
+disposal and fulfilment of office.
+
+I was sitting opposite to one of the windows of the council-room, and
+had been remarking for some time, that the sun was getting very low,
+and, therefore, rose to go, having received a note from the secretary,
+ordering the officers at their advanced posts to offer no hindrance to
+the passing of any thing belonging to His British Majesty's frigate,
+Doris. But we were not suffered to depart without a hearty invitation to
+sup and spend the night: and a stirrup-cup (a huge glass) was brought,
+and a bottle of wine, with about half as much water, poured into it; it
+was then handed to me to begin, and all fourteen received it in turn. By
+this time the guard was drawn out, the band played the national hymn, to
+which we all listened bare-headed, and so we mounted among those
+wild-looking men, in that strange, yet lovely landscape, just as the
+evening mist began to veil the lower land, and the bright red evening
+sun to gild the topmost branches of the forest.
+
+Our journey home was much more rapid than our journey out. The evening
+was cool, and the horses eager to return; but we did not reach Mr. S.'s
+till two hours after sunset, when we found that, after the party had
+waited till six o'clock, Captain Graham had insisted on their dining.
+The governor was uneasy, and offered to send a party of Ca�adores in
+search, as he kindly said, of me,--but this, of course, was refused; the
+captain assuring his excellency, that if the patriots detained his
+lieutenant, he would take him back with his own men, and that as to me,
+while I was with my two companions, he had not the least fear concerning
+me. We were accompanied by the same officer, who had been our companion
+on the latter part of the ride to head-quarters, back almost to the town
+lines; and when we told this to the governor, he was sorry we did not
+know his name, that in case he should ever have it in his power to show
+him kindness, he might do so. A pleasant chat on the adventures of our
+ride, a hearty supper, and a little concert closed the day, which, upon
+the whole, was to me a most agreeable one.
+
+_Thursday, 4th._--Received Madame do Rego, one of her daughters, Miss
+S., and several gentlemen, on board. Most of the party were sea-sick,
+from the rolling of the ship, caused by the heavy swell at the
+anchorage. They were, however, highly charmed with their visit,
+particularly with the fireworks with which we saluted the ladies, who
+had never been on board a British frigate before, on their departure.
+
+_Friday, 5th._--According to the agreement made with the patriot
+officers, on Wednesday, one launch and the second cutter went to Rio
+Doce to receive bullocks and other provisions. The officers and men were
+most kindly received, and returned with many presents of fresh stock and
+vegetables, which the patriots forced upon them. A military band
+attended them on landing, and conducted them to the place of meeting
+with the chiefs.
+
+Messrs. Biddle and Glennie, being on shore surveying, near Cabo de Sant
+Augustin[56], were detained as prisoners for a few hours, by a patriot
+detachment; but, as it appeared to be only for the purpose of obtaining
+money, and done by some subaltern, no notice was taken of it.
+
+[Note 56: The easternmost land of South America. It has two little
+harbours, for small vessels, each of which is defended by a small fort,
+and has a celebrated chapel to our Lady of Nazareth.]
+
+_Saturday, 6th._--The frigate got under weigh to take a cruize, and if
+possible find a quieter anchorage. Mr. Dance with a party went for more
+provisions, to Rio Doce. The surf at the landing place was so high, that
+they were obliged to get into canoes, and leave the boats grappled at
+some distance from the beach. A guard of honour and military band
+attended them, as on the former day, and they were, moreover, pressed to
+dine with the commander of the post, which they gladly did. The
+dining-room was a long hut, built of wood and plaited palm leaves. In
+the centre, was a long table spread with a clean and very handsome
+cloth. The few chairs the place afforded were appropriated to the
+strangers, and the rest of the company stood during the meal. To the
+strangers, also, were given the spoons and forks, but the want of them
+did not appear to incommode the Brazilians. To each person a small
+basin of good beef broth, _bien dor�e_, was served, and for the rest
+every man put his hand in the dish. Two principal messes occupied the
+centre of the table, one, a platter, containing a quantity of mandioc
+flour, raw; and the other a pile of fish, dressed with oil, garlic, and
+pimento. Each person began by stirring a quantity of the flour into his
+broth, till it acquired the consistence of brose, and then helping
+himself to the fish, which was cut up in convenient pieces, dipped it
+into the brose, and eat it with his fingers. Around the two principal
+dishes, were others of a most savoury nature,--eels fried with sweet
+herbs, shellfish stewed with wine and pimento, and others of the same
+kind. Into these also each man put his hand indiscriminately, and
+dipping his morsel into his basin, set our officers the example of
+eating that substitute for wheaten bread, and of swallowing, without
+regard to neatness or order, all manner of messes, mixed together, and
+touched by all hands. After dinner, a slave handed round a silver basin,
+with water and towels, after which a number of toasts were given, and
+the entertainment concluded with vivas, when the guard and band attended
+the officers to the boats, where the bullocks were ready to embark, and
+slaves to carry the English through the surf to the canoes, which
+conveyed them to the boats. On their return, I saw for the first time,
+the pitanga, a berry of which an excellent preserve is made; it grows
+upon a beautiful shrub, scarcely to be distinguished, either in flower
+or leaf, from the broad-leaved myrtle; the berry is as large as a
+filbert, and divided and coloured like the large red love-apple. Mr.
+Dance brought me, also, a beautiful green paroquet, the tamest,
+loveliest thing, with his emerald coat, and sparkling eye, I ever
+saw.[57]
+
+[Note 57: All the parrot tribe in Brazil is beautiful: but neither
+parrots nor parroquets talk well. However, no slave ship comes from
+Africa without a grey parrot or two; so that in the towns they are
+almost as numerous as the native birds, and much more noisy, for they
+talk incessantly.]
+
+_Sunday, 7th._--We continued to cruize opposite to Olinda and Recife,
+and alarmed some of our friends on shore, by sailing round the English
+bank, a thing hitherto believed impossible, for so large a ship.
+
+_Monday, 8th._--We find to-day, on anchoring, that terms have been
+entered into with the patriots, by which their deputies are to be in the
+council, and take an equal share in the administration, and on the other
+hand, they are to withdraw the investing troops, and leave Luis do Rego
+at the head of the military department, until the arrival of the next
+despatches from Lisbon. These pacific measures were brought about by the
+Paraiban deputies whom we met on Wednesday.
+
+_Tuesday, 9th._--Mr. Dance, Mr. Glennie, and I, were deputed to take
+charge of a large party of midshipmen, who had not been able before to
+take a run on shore, to spend the day on Cocoa-nut Island, which lies a
+good way up the harbour, and within the reef of Pernambuco. As we sailed
+along the rock, we observed that it is covered with echini, polypii,
+barnacles, limpets, and crusted with white bivalves less than oysters or
+cockles, yet containing a fish not unlike the latter in appearance, and
+the former in flavour. We had not exactly calculated the effect of the
+tide so far up the harbour as Cocoa-nut Island, consequently we got
+aground in the outer channel, at a considerable distance from the shore.
+The sailors pushed me over one flat bank in the gig, and then carried me
+to the beach; the midshipmen waded, and the officers and boats with the
+crews, went in search of a deeper passage, where they might approach
+with our provisions. Meantime the boys and I had full leisure to examine
+the island. It is perfectly flat and covered with white sand; the shore
+scattered with fragments of shells and coral. As its name imports, it is
+one grove of cocoa-nut trees, excepting where the present occupant has
+cleared space for a market-garden and fishponds. These last are very
+extensive; and as they secure a supply of fish at times when the rough
+seas of the outer roads prevent the canoes from going out, they have
+answered extremely well to the speculator. The garden produces European
+as well as Brazilian vegetables, in great perfection: Fruit-trees also
+thrive very well.[58] In the cuts for the fishponds I observed below
+the sand, a rich black earth, full of decayed vegetables, which probably
+renders this apparently sandy land, so fertile. The ponds were half
+covered with the white water-lily, and some other aquatic plants of the
+country. The whole island abounds in gay shrubs and gaudy flowers[59],
+where the humming-bird, here called the _beja flor_ or kiss-flower, with
+his sapphire wings and ruby crest, hovers continually, and the painted
+butterflies vie with him and his flowers in tints and beauty. The very
+reptiles are beautiful here. The snake and the lizard are singularly so,
+at least in colour. We found a very large rough caterpillar, each hair
+or prickle of which is divided into five or six branches; the rings of
+its body are scarlet, yellow, and brown; and the country people believe
+that it hurts the udders of cows, and prevents their giving milk, if it
+does not actually suck them. They are therefore very unpopular here,
+because the whole island that is not garden-ground is pasture, and
+supplies a great deal of the milk for the market of Recife.
+
+[Note 58: All the orange and lemon tribe, papaws, cashew nuts,
+melons and gourds, pomegranates, guavas, &c.]
+
+[Note 59: The Madagascar perriwinkle is the most common, many
+parasitic plants, and almost all the papilionaceous and the bell-shaped
+creepers: the passion flowers also are common.]
+
+While we were endeavouring to forget our hunger by examining the island,
+and drinking cocoa-nut juice, and wondering at many an ordinary thing,
+though new to young untravelled eyes, and such were those of most of the
+party, our boats were taking a circuitous track, and at length at ten
+o'clock landed our provisions, when we made a hearty breakfast, sitting
+on a sail spread under the palm shade. The elder boys with their guns,
+then accompanied Mr. Dance and the captain of a merchant vessel, who
+volunteered to act as Cicerone, to shoot; and the younger ones staid
+with me to collect flowers, gather vegetables, and with the assistance
+of the boats' crews, to superintend the preparations for dinner. At four
+o'clock the sportsmen returned, bringing red-crested woodpeckers,
+finches of various hues, humming-birds, black and yellow pies, and
+others of gay plumage and delicate shape, quite new to us all. A merrier
+party certainly never met, but the best of the expedition was to come.
+The tide was now favourable; and we determined to do a spirited thing,
+and instead of going all the way down the harbour, which would have
+kept us out beyond the time allowed us, we ran through a passage in the
+reef called Mother Cary's passage, because few things but the birds
+think of swimming there. The merchant-boat went first, our gig next, and
+as I sat in the stern of the large boat that was to follow, it was
+beautiful, but something fearful, to see them dash through that boiling
+surf between the rocks and rise over the wave secure beyond it, nor was
+the sensation less mixed when we followed. There is at all times
+something triumphant in the sensation of sailing over the waters; but
+when they are roughened by storms, or rendered fearful by rocks or
+shoals, the triumph approaches to the sublime, and in it there is a
+secret dread, though not of ocean, and a raising of the soul to him who
+made the ocean, and gave man mind to master it. I am not ashamed to own,
+that as I looked round on my young charge, when Mr. Dance whispered "sit
+still and say nothing," and then stepping to the bow of the boat called
+aloud to the helmsman, "steady!" I had a moment, though but a moment, of
+exquisite anxiety. But we were through in an instant, and soon alongside
+of the frigate, where we were praised for doing what few had done
+before, and having shown the possibility of doing that safely, which at
+some future time it might be of importance to know could be done at all.
+
+_Wednesday, 10th._--We went on shore early for the first time since the
+armistice. The guns are removed from the streets and a few of the shops
+are re-opened; the negroes are no longer confined within doors, and the
+priests have reappeared; their broad hats and ample cloaks give them an
+importance among the crowd, which now is busy and active, and seemingly
+intent on redeeming the time lost to trade by the siege. I was struck by
+the great preponderance of the black population. By the last census, the
+population of Pernambuco, including Olinda was seventy thousand, of
+which not above one third are white: the rest are mulatto or negro. The
+mulattoes are, generally speaking, more active, more industrious, and
+more lively than either of the other classes. They have amassed great
+fortunes, in many instances, and are far from being backward in
+promoting the cause of independence in Brazil. Few even of the free
+negroes have become very rich. A free negro, when his shop or garden has
+repaid his care, by clothing him and his wife each in a handsome black
+dress, with necklace and armlets for the lady, and knee and shoe buckles
+of gold, to set off his own silk stockings, seldom toils much more, but
+is quite contented with daily food. Many, of all colours, when they can
+afford to purchase a negro, sit down exempt from further care. They make
+the negro work for them, or beg for them, and so as they may eat their
+bread in quiet, care little how it is obtained.
+
+The European Portuguese, are extremely anxious to avoid intermarriage
+with born Brazilians, and prefer giving their daughters and fortunes to
+the meanest clerk of European birth, rather than to the richest and most
+meritorious Brazilian. They have become aware of the prodigious
+inconvenience, if not evil, they have brought on themselves by the
+importation of Africans, and now no doubt, look forward with dread to
+the event of a revolution, which will free their slaves from their
+authority, and, by declaring them all men alike, will authorise them to
+resent the injuries they have so long and patiently borne.
+
+_Thursday, 11th._--As every thing seems quietly settled between the
+royalist and patriot chiefs, we are preparing to take leave of
+Pernambuco, and it is not without regret, for we have been kindly
+treated by the Portuguese, and hospitably received by our own
+countrymen. We went on shore to provide necessaries and comforts for our
+farther voyage. Among the latter I bought some excellent sweetmeats[60],
+which are made in the interior, and brought to market in neat little
+wooden kegs, each containing six or eight pounds. It is astonishing to
+see the weight brought from two and three hundred miles' distance, by
+the small and slight but very swift horses of the country. The baggage
+horses are not shod any more than those for riding: the latter are
+almost universally trained to a kind of running pace, easy in itself,
+but not very agreeable at first, to those accustomed to English horses.
+To-day I saw and tasted the jerked beef, _charqui_, of Spanish South
+America. It appears, when hanging in bales at the shop-doors, like
+bundles of thick ragged leather. It is prepared by cutting the flesh in
+wide strips, clean off the bones, slightly salting, pressing, and drying
+in the air. In this state it might well have served for saddle-cloths to
+the Buccaneers, as tradition says they dressed their meat under their
+saddles. However that may be, the beef is good. Here the common mode of
+using it is to cut it in small squares, and boil it in the mandioc
+pottage, which is the principal food of the poorer inhabitants and the
+slaves.
+
+[Note 60: The convents are, generally speaking, the places where the
+more delicate preserves are made. Those I bought were of Guava, cashew
+apple, citron, and lime. The cashew particularly good. They go by the
+general name of _Doce_.]
+
+After I had ended my marketing, I went to call on a Portuguese family,
+and as it was the first private Portuguese house I had been in, I was
+curious to notice the difference between it and the English houses here.
+The building and general disposition of the apartments are the same, and
+the drawing-room only differed in being better furnished, and with every
+article English, even to a handsome piano of Broadwood's; but the
+dining-room was completely foreign; the floor was covered with painted
+cloth, and the walls hung round with English prints and Chinese
+pictures, without distinction of subject or size. At one end of the room
+was a long table, covered with a glass case, enclosing a large piece of
+religious wax-work; the whole _pr�sepia_, ministering angels, three
+kings, and all, with moss, artificial flowers, shells and beads,
+smothered in gauze and tiffany, bespangled with gold and silver, San
+Antonio and St. Christopher being in attendance on the right and left;
+the rest of the furniture consisted of ordinary chairs and tables, and a
+kind of beaufet or sideboard: from the ceiling, nine bird-cages were
+hanging, each with its little inhabitant; canaries, grey finches with a
+note almost as fine, and the beautiful widow-bird, were the favourites.
+In larger cages in a passage room, there were more parrots and paroquets
+than I should have thought agreeable in one house; but they are
+well-bred birds, and seldom scream all together. We were no sooner
+seated in the dining-room, than biscuit, cake, wine, and liqueurs, were
+handed round, the latter in diminutive tumblers; a glass of water was
+then offered to each, and we were pressed to taste it, as being the very
+best in Recife; it proceeds from a spring in the garden of the convent
+of Jerusalem, two miles from town, and the only conduit from that spring
+leads to the garden of a sister convent here. From the lady, I learned,
+that the porous jars for cooling water, that we find here, are all made
+in the neighbourhood of Bahia, there being no manufactory here, except a
+few coarse cottons for clothing for the slaves. The air and manners of
+the family we visited, though neither English nor French, were perfectly
+well bred, and the dress pretty much that of civilised Europe, only that
+the men wore cotton jackets instead of cloth coats, and were without
+neck-cloths; when they go out of doors, however, they dress like
+Englishmen.
+
+Returning from our visit, we met a monk, carried out to be buried by
+several of his brethren, with candle, book, and bell, and all the
+solemnities which human feeling has invented to solace its own fears and
+griefs, under the pretence of honouring the dead, and to which the
+Romish church has in such cases as these, added all her pageantry. I
+could not help contrasting it with the burials on the beach of Olinda,
+and smiling at the vanities that attach themselves even to corruption.
+"But man, vain man, plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven, as
+make the angels weep."
+
+But our horses were awaiting us, and we left our indignation and our
+pity for the follies of some, and the miseries of others, to enjoy, for
+the first time since the posts were free, the country air. When we went
+to Bibiriba, soldiers stopped us to question at every turn; piles of
+arms, and horses ready accoutred at the door of every considerable
+residence, showed that military posts had taken place of the pleasures
+of the country-houses, and accounted for the solitariness of the roads.
+Now the scene is changed--the paths are crowded with negroes, young and
+old, in their picturesque, though gaudy dresses, with baskets of fruit,
+fish, and other provisions, on their heads; little carts, of which we
+had not before seen one, begin to appear, and the fine oxen which draw
+them form no bad contrast to the half-starved bullocks of the town.
+'Twas a cool evening, and the sun was just low enough to gild the edges
+of the palms and other tall trees, which shot up with their deep black
+shadows into the thin pure light, making an effect, that even Titian's
+landscape pencil has not reached. Our ride extended to Mr. S.'s
+country-house, which is, I believe, on the same plan with all the others
+hereabouts, and which I can only compare to an Oriental bungalow; one
+story very commodiously laid out, a veranda surrounding it, and standing
+in the midst of a little paddock, part of which is garden ground, and
+part pasture, generally hedged with limes and roses, and shaded with
+fruit trees, is the general description of the country sitios about
+Pernambuco; the difference arising from the taste of the inhabitant, or
+the situation of the ground, being allowed for. The low rent of these
+pleasant little gardens is surprising; but it arises in great measure
+from the indolence and consequent poverty of the holders of original
+grants of land here: as long as their negroes and estates maintained
+them, they paid no attention to the particular parts that, being near
+the town, might have been at all times productive. Now, that sugar and
+cotton are no longer in such demand, nearly half the fazendas or
+factories are ruined, and such is become the indolent temper of the
+people, that rather than seek to redeem their estates, they will take
+the smallest annuity for a portion.
+
+On our way to the sitio, we stopped at a kind of public-house or venta;
+it is like an English huckster's, and contains a little of every thing,
+cloth and candles, fruit and lard, wine and pimento, which are retailed
+at no very extravagant profit to the poor; the draught wine is really
+good, being port of excellent quality, without the quantity of brandy
+which the English market requires. By the time we repassed it on our way
+home, many a negro was spending his day's savings, and becoming as happy
+as wine could make him; and many a traveller was regaling himself with
+bread, garlic, and salt, and preparing to spread his mat, and lie down
+in the open air for the night. Night within the tropics is always a
+gayer and more peopled time than with us; the heat of the day detains
+many within doors all day, and evening and night become the favourite
+hours for walking. As we returned through Boa Vista we passed many
+groups enjoying like ourselves the pleasant air, and gazing idly on the
+reflections of the white houses and waving trees in the water; while the
+fire flies flitting from bush to bush, seemed like fragments of stars
+come down to adorn the moonlight.
+
+_Friday, 12th._--- The Prince Royal of Portugal's birth-day. There is a
+levee at the palace. The company bow first to the governor, then to the
+Prince's picture, which is placed in the middle of the audience-room, to
+receive its due honours; and then the _beja mano_, or kiss hands, takes
+place. The forts and ships saluted; we of course did the same; and the
+people all dressed and went to mass, as on a holiday. One thing
+contributed, however, in no small degree to the enjoyment of the day.
+The troops, which lately arrived from Bahia, re-embarked in order to
+return. Their whole behaviour had been disorderly, and their drunkenness
+and riot, during the ten days they were here, had quite disgusted the
+people; while the disposition they manifested to join the patriots, had
+rendered them but suspicious auxiliaries to the governor.
+
+_Saturday, 13th._--I took leave of my amiable friends at the palace.
+Madame do Rego gave me several specimens of amethyst, and the stone
+called minha nova (like aqua marine), and also a fine piece of gold ore
+of the province. She told me that Luiz do Rego had sent home many fine
+minerals from the captaincy, and also some fossils. She described some
+enormous bones, which may have belonged to the elephant or the mammoth,
+found at no great distance from Recife in digging a well, and, as far as
+I could understand, in such soil as I had observed lay under the sand in
+Cocoa-nut Island.[61]
+
+[Note 61: The Sugar-loaf Hill, in the ridge of Priaca, about eight
+leagues N.E. of the villa of Penedo, has a lake on its western
+declivity, where enormous bones have been found; and on the north side
+there is a fearful cavern.--_Chor. Brazil._]
+
+A great dinner was given to-day, by the merchants, to the captain and
+officers. The governor, and other persons of dignity in the town, met
+them; I am told it was a very handsome dinner, that there was plenty of
+every kind of wine, and that nothing could exceed the friendly
+politeness of the governor and his party. I had remained at Mr. S.'s,
+where most of the company visited me after tea; and then we took leave
+of Pernambuco, where we had received much kindness, and had at least the
+enjoyment of novelty. The scene at our embarking was very pretty. Our
+friends went with us to the jetty, and our boats lying in the clear
+moonshine beneath it, with sailors going up and down preparing for us,
+the harbour and the shipping doubled by the clear reflection in the
+still water, heightened and set off the sparkling of the breakers that
+dashed against the outer fort and light-house. Through these we soon
+made our way and reached the ship, where I have once more taken
+possession of my cabin, and put it in order for sea.
+
+We leave Pernambuco, with a firm persuasion that this part of Brazil at
+least will never again tamely submit to Portugal. Where the firmness and
+conduct of Do Rego have failed to hold the captaincy in obedience, it
+will be in vain for other governors to attempt it, particularly so long
+as the state of the mother country is such as that she can neither fight
+with nor for her colonies; and while she considers them only as taxable
+parts of her states, that are bound to support her in her weakness.[62]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 62: We left Pernambuco on the 14th Oct. 1821. Before Nov. 18th
+of the same year, the Cortes of Lisbon had recalled Luiz do Rego and all
+the European troops; had repented of that recal, and had countermanded
+it, and sent reinforcements. But by the time they arrived, the
+captain-general had embarked on board a French ship for Europe; and the
+junta, after provisioning the ships with the troops, forbid them to
+land, and sent them towards Rio Janeiro.]
+
+_Sunday, Oct. 14th._--We got under weigh after breakfast, and soon lost
+sight of Pernambuco. All Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, we coasted along
+within sight of the shores of Brazil. They are hilly and very woody, the
+green of the sloping banks being often interrupted by bright white
+patches, which seem to be of sand. In the evening of Tuesday the 16th,
+we anchored in the bay of All Saints, opposite to the town of St.
+Salvador, commonly called Bahia. It was quite dark before we got in, so
+that we lost the first entrance-view of that magnificent harbour; but
+the scattered lights show us the great extent and high situation of the
+town.
+
+_Wednesday, 17th._--This morning, at day-break, my eyes opened on one of
+the finest scenes they ever beheld. A city, magnificent in appearance
+from the sea, is placed along the ridge and on the declivity of a very
+high and steep hill: the richest vegetation breaks through the white
+houses at intervals, and beyond the city, reaches along to the outer
+point of land on which the picturesque church and convent of Sant
+Antonio da Barre is placed. Here and there the bright red soil shows
+itself in harmony with the tiling of the houses. The _tracery_ of forts,
+the bustle of shipping, hills melting in the distance, and the very form
+of the bay, with its promontories and islands, altogether finish this
+charming picture; then the fresh sea-breeze gives spirit to enjoy it,
+notwithstanding its tropical climate.
+
+Early in the day we moved our anchorage closer in-shore; and then, on
+the invitation of Mr. Pennell, the British consul, we went ashore to
+spend the day with him. We landed at the arsenal, or rather dock-yard,
+where there is nothing of the neatness observable in such establishments
+at home. The first object we saw, however, was a fine 58-gun frigate on
+the stocks, the model of which I hear connoisseurs praise as beautiful.
+There is nothing besides the new ship, and some handsome pieces of old
+brass cannon, worth looking at. Every thing is visibly either suspended
+or on the decline, and there will probably be no improvement, until the
+political state of Brazil is a little more settled. We find things here,
+though not quite so unquiet as at Pernambuco, yet tending the same way.
+
+The street into which we proceeded through the arsenal gate, forms, at
+this place, the breadth of the whole lower town of Bahia, and is,
+without any exception, the filthiest place I ever was in. It is
+extremely narrow, yet all the working artificers bring their benches,
+and tools into the street: in the interstices between them, along the
+walls, are fruit-sellers, venders of sausages, black-puddings, fried
+fish, oil and sugar cakes, negroes plaiting hats or mats, caderas, (a
+kind of sedan chair,) with their bearers, dogs, pigs, and poultry,
+without partition or distinction; and as the gutter runs in the middle
+of the street, every thing is thrown there from the different stalls, as
+well as from the windows; and there the animals live and feed! In this
+street are the warehouses and counting-houses of the merchants, both
+native and foreign. The buildings are high, but neither so handsome nor
+so airy as those of Pernambuco.
+
+It was raining when we landed; therefore, as the streets leading out of
+the filthy lower town do not admit of the use of wheeled carriages, on
+account of the steepness of the ascent, we hired caderas, and found
+them, if not comfortable, at least commodious. They consist of a cane
+arm-chair, with a foot-board and a canopy covered with leather;
+curtains, generally of moreen, with gilt bordering and lined with cotton
+or linen, are contrived to draw round, or open at pleasure; and the
+whole is slung by the top to a single pole, by which two negroes carry
+it at a quick pace upon their shoulders, changing occasionally from
+right to left.[63]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 63: When Frezier travelled, a cotton hammock with a canopy was
+used.]
+
+As we ascended from the street, every step brought us in sight of some
+beautiful scene, generally terminated by the bay and shipping. There is
+something in the landscape here peculiarly agreeable. The verdure, the
+wood, the steep banks, and gently sloping lawns, generally opening to
+the sea or the lake behind the town, have a freshness and amenity that I
+scarcely remember seeing before. We saw but little of the upper city,
+but that little was handsome, in our way to the consul's. His house,
+like those of all the British merchants, is a little way out of town,
+and is in the suburb Vittoria, which occupies the greater part of a long
+narrow ridge extending from the town towards Sant Antonio: between it
+and the town is Fort Pedro, built, I think, originally of mud, by the
+Dutch. It was faced with stone, on the recovery of Bahia from the Dutch,
+about the beginning of the last century. We found the Consul and his
+daughter ready to receive us at their very pleasant garden-house, which
+literally overhangs the bay,--flowers and fruits mingle their sweets
+even down to the water's edge,--while
+
+    "Seaborn gales their gelid wings expand,
+    To winnow fragrance round the smiling land."
+
+Eager to seize the opportunity of walking out after our voyage, we
+accepted Miss Pennell's kind offer, to show us some of the surrounding
+country before dinner, and accompanied her as far as the church
+dedicated to N.S. da Gra�a. It was the first offering of piety, I
+believe, to Christian worship by a native Brazilian.
+
+When the famous Caramuru was wrecked, together with the Donatory
+Coutinho, on Itaparica, Coutinho was put to death; but, Caramuru, being
+beloved by the natives, was spared, and he returned to his old
+settlement of Villa Velha. His wife, Catherine Paraguaza, who had
+accompanied him to France, saw an apparition in the camp of the Indians,
+and believing it to be a real European female, Caramuru followed in the
+direction his wife pointed out: he discovered, accordingly, in one of
+the huts, an image of N.S. da Gra�a; and according to the directions his
+wife had received from the vision, built and dedicated the church, and
+bestowed it, and a house by it, on the Benedictines. It was at first
+of mud, but soon after was built of stone.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Thursday, 18th._--We rode out before breakfast, through landscape so
+fine, that I wished for a poet or a painter at every step. Sometimes we
+went through thick wild wood into bushy hollows; then emerged on clear
+lawns, sprinkled with palm trees, through which country-houses, farms,
+and gardens were seen; and from every eminence, the bay, the sea, or the
+lake, formed part of the scene. Here and there the huge gamela tree[64]
+stands like a tower, adorned, besides its own leaves, with numberless
+parasite plants, from the stiff cactus, to the swinging air plant[65];
+and the frequent tower of church and monastery soften and improve the
+features of the country.
+
+[Note 64: The gamela, like the banyan, easily takes root in other
+trees, and its branches meet together in the same manner. It is the tree
+of which the canoes of Brazil are made, and serves besides for troughs
+of various kinds.]
+
+[Note 65: Air-plant or Tillandsia, of which there are several sorts.
+The Tillandsia Lingulata is the largest, and agrees with Jaquin's plate;
+the others are different from those described by him, and are much more
+beautiful.].
+
+Mr. Pennell has most kindly given our young men a general invitation to
+his house; and accordingly, to-day several of them dined with him, and
+we had a party in the evening, when some of the ladies played
+quadrilles, while others danced.
+
+_Friday, 19th._--I accompanied Miss Pennell in a tour of visits to her
+Portuguese friends. As it is not their custom to visit or be visited in
+the forenoon, it was hardly fair to take a stranger to see them.
+However, my curiosity, at least, was gratified. In the first place, the
+houses, for the most part, are disgustingly dirty: the lower story
+usually consists of cells for the slaves, stabling &c.; the staircases
+are narrow and dark; and, at more than one house, we waited in a passage
+while the servants ran to open the doors and windows of the
+sitting-rooms, and to call their mistresses, who were enjoying their
+undress in their own apartments. When they appeared, I could scarcely
+believe that one half were gentlewomen. As they wear neither stay nor
+bodice, the figure becomes almost indecently slovenly, after very early
+youth; and this is the more disgusting, as they are very thinly clad,
+wear no neck-handkerchiefs, and scarcely any sleeves. Then, in this hot
+climate, it is unpleasant to see dark cottons and stuffs, without any
+white linen, near the skin. Hair black, ill combed, and dishevelled, or
+knotted unbecomingly, or still worse, _en papillote_, and the whole
+person having an unwashed appearance. When at any of the houses the
+bustle of opening the cobwebbed windows, and assembling the family was
+over, in two or three instances, the servants had to remove dishes of
+sugar, mandioc, and other provisions, which had been left in the best
+rooms to dry. There is usually a sofa at each end of the room, and to
+the right and left a long file of chairs, which look as if they never
+could be moved out of their place. Between the two sets of seats is a
+space, which, I am told, is often used for dancing; and, in every house,
+I saw either a guitar or piano, and generally both. Prints and pictures,
+the latter the worst daubs I ever saw, decorate the walls pretty
+generally; and there are, besides, crucifixes and other things of the
+kind. Some houses, however, are more neatly arranged; one, I think
+belonging to a captain of the navy, was papered, the floors laid with
+mat, and the tables ornamented with pretty porcelain, Indian and French:
+the lady too was neatly dressed in a French wrapper. Another house
+belonging to one of the judges was also clean, and of a more stately
+appearance than the rest, though the inhabitant was neither richer nor
+of higher rank. Glass chandeliers were suspended from the roof; handsome
+mirrors were intermixed with the prints and pictures. A good deal of
+handsome china was displayed round the room; but the jars, as well as
+the chairs and tables, seemed to form an inseparable part of the walls.
+We were every where invited, after sitting a few moments on the sofa, to
+go to the balconies of the windows and enjoy the view and the breeze, or
+at least amuse ourselves with what was passing in the street. And yet
+they did not lack conversation: the principal topic, however, was praise
+of the beauty of Bahia; dress, children, and diseases, I think, made up
+the rest; and, to say the truth, their manner of talking on the latter
+subject is as disgusting as their dress, that is, in a morning: I am
+told they are different after dinner. They marry very early, and soon
+lose their bloom. I did not see one tolerably pretty woman to-day. But
+then who is there that can bear so total a disguise as filth and
+untidiness spread over a woman?
+
+_Saturday, 20th._--As the charts of this coast hitherto published are
+very incorrect, the captain asked permission from government to sound
+and survey the bay: it is refused on the ground of policy; as if it
+could be policy to keep hidden rocks and shoals, for one's own as well
+as other people's ships.
+
+I walked through the greater part of the town. The lower part extends
+much farther than I could see the day I landed; it contains a few
+churches, one of which, belonging to the monastery of _A concep�a�_, is
+very handsome, but the smell within is disgusting; the flooring is laid
+in squares with stone, and within each square there is a panelling of
+wood of about nine feet by six; under each panel is a vault, into which
+the dead are thrown naked, until they reach a certain number, when with
+a little quick-lime thrown in, the wood is fastened down, and then
+another square is opened, and so on in rotation. From that church,
+passing the arsenal gate, we went along the low street, and found it
+widen considerably at three quarters of a mile beyond: there are the
+markets, which seem to be admirably supplied, especially with fish.
+There also is the slave market, a sight I have not yet learned to see
+without shame and indignation[66]: beyond are a set of arcades, where
+goldsmiths, jewellers, and haberdashers display their small wares, and
+there are the best-looking shops; but there is a want of neatness, of
+that art of making things look well, that invites a buyer in England and
+France. One bookseller's shop, where books are extravagantly dear,
+exists in the low town, and one other in the ascent to the upper.
+
+[Note 66: Frezier says of Bahia, "Who would believe it? there are
+shops full of those poor wretches, who are exposed there stark naked and
+bought like cattle, over whom the buyers have the same power; so that
+upon slight disgust they may kill them, almost without fear of
+punishment, or at least treat them as cruelly as they please. I know not
+how such barbarity can be reconciled to the maxims of religion, which
+makes them members of the same body with the whites, when they have been
+baptized, and raises them to the dignity of the sons of God--_all sons
+of the Most High_.
+
+"I here make this comparison, because the Portuguese are Christians who
+make a great outward show of religion."--_Voyage to the South Sea_.]
+
+The upper town is most beautifully situated on the ridge between the sea
+and the fresh water lake, and from its height, and the great slope of
+most of the streets, it is incomparably cleaner than the port. The
+cathedral dedicated to St. Salvador is a handsome building, and stands
+on one side of a square, where the palace, prison, and other public
+buildings are placed. The finest of these, the Jesuits' college, the
+marble columns of which came from Europe ready cut, is now converted
+into a barrack. The most useful is the hospital of Nossa Senhora da
+Misericordia[67], founded by Juan de Matinhos, whose statue in white
+marble, with a wig like Sir Cloudesley Shovel's in Westminster Abbey,
+stands at the first landing-place, and is the ugliest piece of carving I
+ever saw.
+
+[Note 67: Part of the funds for supporting this and other hospitals
+is derived from lotteries. See advertisements in the different Bahia
+newspapers.]
+
+This hospital, besides its use as a refuge for the sick, of whom there
+are generally about 120, maintains 50 young girls of decent parentage,
+to whom a suitable education is given, and a dowry of 200 crowns
+bestowed on them when they marry.[68] The building of the Misericordia
+is a fair specimen of the style of the convents, public buildings, and
+more noble houses,--rather handsome than elegant. It surrounds a large
+area, subdivided into smaller courts; the staircase is of marble, inlaid
+with coloured stucco, and the sides are lined with tiles of porcelain,
+so as to form arabesques, often of very pretty design. This is both a
+cool and a cleanly lining to a wall, particularly for an hospital. The
+principal rooms are also decorated in the same manner; and many of the
+fronts and cupolas of the churches are covered with similar tiles, the
+effect of which is often exceedingly agreeable, when seen among the
+trees and plainer buildings of the city. The chapel belonging to the
+hospital is handsome, a little gaudy, however. The ceiling is
+respectably painted, and was probably the work of an amateur monk of
+the seventeenth century. The treatment of the sick is humane, and they
+are well provided with food and other necessaries; but the medical
+practice, though much improved of late years, is not the most
+enlightened.
+
+[Note 68: Joa� de Matos Aguiar, commonly called Joa� de Matinhos,
+from his diminutive size, was the founder of this Recolhimento. He
+bequeathed 800,000 crusadoes for the retired women, 400,000 for the
+patients, one to each on leaving the hospital, and 400,000, dowry to 38
+girls every year, at the period of the foundation, 1716.]
+
+There is a great deal of jealousy of foreigners in the present
+government, hence I was not able to enter many of the public buildings.
+The government treasury was one I was desirous to see, but there were
+objections. The treasury here was formerly considered as subordinate to
+that of Rio de Janeiro, and accordingly paid a portion of its receipts
+to bills drawn monthly by the treasurer in the capital, upon this, and
+those of the other provinces. But since the revolution of the 10th of
+February, the provisional government has taken upon itself to refuse
+payment, on the grounds that it is entirely independent of Rio, until
+the pleasure of the cortes at Lisbon shall be known. The revenue is
+derived from direct taxes on land and provisions, excise upon exports
+and imports, and harbour dues. Land is subject to a tax of one-tenth of
+the whole of its produce, and since the revolution, church lands are
+under the same law, and the clergy are paid by the government.
+
+The taxes on provisions are annually farmed out to the highest bidder:
+they are imposed on beef, fresh fish, farinha, and vegetables. Each
+parish has its separate farmer, who pays the amount of his contract into
+the treasury, and then makes the most he can of his dues.
+
+The import and export duties are paid at the custom-house, between which
+and the treasury a monthly settlement takes place.
+
+The port dues for foreign ships are 2000 reals per day, a trifle for the
+light house, and rather heavy charges for entering, clearing, &c.
+Portuguese and Brazilian ships pay no anchorage, but are subject to a
+tonnage.
+
+We ended our perambulation of the town, by going to the opera at night.
+The theatre[69] is placed on the highest part of the city, and the
+platform before it commands the finest view imaginable. It is a handsome
+building, and very commodious, both to spectators and actors. Within it
+is very large and well laid out, but dirty and in great want of fresh
+painting. The actors are very bad as such, and little better as singers;
+but the orchestra is very tolerable. The piece was a very ill-acted
+tragedy, founded on Voltaire's Mahomed. During the representation, the
+Portuguese ladies and gentlemen seemed determined to forget the stage
+altogether, and to laugh, eat sweetmeats, and drink coffee, as if at
+home. When the musicians, however, began to play the overture to the
+ballet, every eye and voice was directed to the stage, and a loud call
+for the national hymn followed, and not till it had been played again
+and again, was the ballet suffered to proceed. During the bustle
+occasioned by this, a captain in the army was arrested and hurried out
+of the pit; some say for picking pockets, others for using intemperate
+language on politics, when the national hymn was called for. Meantime
+one of the midshipmen of our party had his sword stolen, adroitly
+enough, from the corner of the box, yet we perceived nobody enter; so
+that we conclude a gentleman in regimentals in the next box thought it
+would suit him, and so buckled it on to go home with.
+
+[Note 69: It was begun by the Conde da Ponte, and finished by the
+Conde dos Arcos after the arrival of the king in Brazil. It was opened
+May 13th, 1812.]
+
+The police here is in a wretched state. The use of the dagger is so
+frequent, that the secret murders generally average two hundred yearly,
+between the upper and lower towns. To this evil the darkness and
+steepness of the streets mainly contribute, by furnishing almost a
+certainty of escape. The nominal _intendente da policia_ is also the
+supreme judge in criminal cases. No law, however, has as yet determined
+the limits or scope, either of his power, or that of the
+lieutenant-colonel of police, who calls upon a few soldiers from any of
+the garrisons whenever he has to act, and who appoints military patroles
+also from among the soldiers on duty. It often happens that persons
+accused before this formidable officer are seized and imprisoned for
+years, without ever being brought to a trial; a malicious information,
+whether true or false, subjects a man's private house to be broken open
+by the colonel and his gang; and if the master escapes imprisonment it
+is well, though the house scarcely ever escapes pillage. In cases of
+riot and quarrels in the street, the colonel generally orders the
+soldiers to fall on with canes, and beat people into their senses. Such
+being the state of the police, it is, perhaps, more wonderful that
+murders are so few, than that they are so many. Where there is little or
+no public justice, private revenge will take its place.
+
+_Sunday, 21st._--We went to the English chapel, and were well pleased
+with the decent manner in which the service was performed. The Rev.
+Robert Synge is chaplain, a man of cheerful convivial manners, yet
+exceedingly attentive both as chaplain, and as guardian of his poorer
+countrymen. The chapel and clergymen are supported by the contribution
+fund, as are also the hospital for English sailors and others, and its
+surgeon, Mr. Dundas: both the hospital and chapel are under the same
+roof. I was surprised, perhaps unreasonably, to hear Mr. Synge pray for
+"Don John of Portugal, Sovereign of these realms, by whose gracious
+permission we are enabled to meet and worship God according to our
+conscience," or words to that effect. We were not so polite in Rome, I
+remember, as to pray for His Holiness, though it would have been but
+reasonable.
+
+Returning from chapel, we saw great part of the troops drawn up in
+inspecting order, on the little green between _Buenos Ayres_ (the name
+of the hospital) and Fort Pedro. Every Portuguese is, it seems, by birth
+a soldier; and nothing exempts a man from military duty, but his holding
+a place under government. There are six corps of militia in the city of
+Bahia: 1st, one company of mounted gentlemen, forming the government
+guard of honour; 2d, one squadron of flying artillery; 3d and 4th, two
+regiments of whites, almost all tradespeople; 5th, one regiment of
+mulatoes; and 6th, one of free blacks, amounting altogether to 4000 men,
+well armed and equipped; but the black regiment is unquestionably the
+best trained, and most serviceable, as a light infantry corps. The
+regiments of country militia, as those of Cachoeira, Piraja, &c. are much
+stronger, and with those of the city, amount to about 15,000 men. The
+officers are chosen from among the most respectable families, and with
+the exception of the majors and adjutants, who are of the line, receive
+no pay.
+
+The troops of the capital are generally reviewed or inspected on
+Sundays, and sometimes the regular Portuguese are reviewed with them.
+There is always something gay and inspiriting in martial sounds and
+martial sights; and the fine weather, gay landscape, and above all, the
+idea that in a day or two, nay, this very night, these same soldiers
+might be called into action, did not render the scene less interesting.
+The native artillery have long garrisoned some of the forts. It appears
+that the royal troops of Portugal have claimed some superiority, and
+above all, have demanded their guns and ammunition; and so there is a
+dispute, in which the royalists and independents take part, and every
+day hostilities are expected; but both parties seem so willing to be
+peaceable, that I trust the matter will end without bloodshed.
+
+_Monday, 22d._--This evening there was a large party, both Portuguese
+and English, at the consul's. In the well-dressed women I saw to-night,
+I had great difficulty in recognising the slatterns of the other
+morning. The senhoras were all dressed after the French fashion: corset,
+fichu, garniture, all was proper, and even elegant, and there was a
+great display of jewels. Our English ladies, though quite of the second
+rate of even colonial gentility, however, bore away the prize of beauty
+and grace; for after all, the clothes, however elegant, that are not
+worn habitually, can only embarrass and cramp the native movements; and,
+as Mademoiselle Clairon remarks, "she who would _act_ a gentlewoman in
+public, must _be_ one in private life."
+
+The Portuguese men have all a mean look; none appear to have any
+education beyond counting-house forms, and their whole time is, I
+believe, spent between trade and gambling: in the latter, the ladies
+partake largely after they are married. Before that happy period, when
+there is no evening dance, they surround the card tables, and with eager
+eyes follow the game, and long for the time when they too may mingle in
+it. I scarcely wonder at this propensity. Without education, and
+consequently without the resources of mind, and in a climate where
+exercise out of doors is all but impossible, a stimulus must be had; and
+gambling, from the sage to the savage, has always been resorted to, to
+quicken the current of life. On the present occasion, we feared the
+young people would have been disappointed of their dance, because the
+fiddlers, after waiting some time, went away, as they alleged, because
+they had not their tea early enough; however, some of the ladies
+volunteered to play the piano, and the ball lasted till past midnight.
+
+_Tuesday, 23d._--I rode with Mr. Dance and Mr. Ricken along the banks of
+the lake, decidedly the most beautiful scenery in this beautiful
+country; and then through wild groves, where all the splendours of
+Brazilian animal and vegetable life were displayed. The gaudy plumage of
+the birds, the brilliant hues of the insects, the size, and shape, and
+colour, and fragrance, of the flowers and shrubs, seen mostly for the
+first time, enchanted us, and rendered our little journey to the great
+pepper gardens, whither we were going, delightful. Every hedge is at
+this season gay with coffee blossom, but it is too early in the year for
+the pepper or the cotton to be in beauty. It is not many years since
+Francisco da Cunha and Menezes sent the pepper plant from Goa for these
+gardens, which were afterwards enlarged by him, when he became governor
+of Bahia. Plants were sent from hence to Pernambuco, which have
+succeeded in the botanical garden.
+
+From the pepper gardens we rode on to a convent at the farther extremity
+of the town, and overlooking both the bays, above and below the
+peninsula of Bon fin, or N.S. da Monserrat. It is called the Soledad,
+and the nuns are famous for their delicate sweetmeats, and for the
+manufacture of artificial flowers, formed of the feathers of the
+many-coloured birds of their country. I admired the white water-lily
+most, though the pomegranate flower, the carnation, and the rose are
+imitated with the greatest exactness. The price of all these things is
+exorbitant; but the convents having lost much of their property since
+the revolution, the nuns are fain to make up by the produce of this
+petty industry, for the privations imposed on them by the reduction of
+their rents.
+
+_Wednesday, October 24th._--Mr. Pennell, his daughter, and a few other
+friends, joined us in an expedition to Itaparica[70], a large island
+that forms the western side of the Bay of All Saints. A shoal runs off
+from it a long way to sea, and there are reefs of coral rocks on
+different parts of its coast. The distance from the city to the nearest
+landing place on the island is five miles and a half, which our boats'
+crews rowed in less than two hours. We put in between two ledges of
+rock, to a little jetty, belonging to the fazenda or factory of Aseoli,
+or Filisberti, both of whom were partners in Jerome Buonaparte's
+commercial establishment here. There is no town on Itaparica; but there
+is a villa, or village, with a fort on the Punto de Itaparica, which
+commands the passage between it and the main land, and also the mouth of
+the river, on which stands Nazareth da Farinha, so called from the
+abundance of that article which it produces. There are also a great many
+fazendas, which, with their establishment of slaves and cattle, may be
+considered as so many hamlets. Each sugar farm, or ingenho, as the
+fazendas are oftener called here, has its little community of slaves
+around it; and in their huts something like the blessings of freedom are
+enjoyed, in the family ties and charities they are not forbidden to
+enjoy. I went into several of the huts, and found them cleaner and more
+comfortable than I expected; each contains four or five rooms, and each
+room appeared to hold a family. These out-of-door slaves, belonging to
+the great ingenhos, in general are better off than the slaves of masters
+whose condition is nearer to their own, because, "The more the master is
+removed from us, in place and rank, the greater the liberty we enjoy;
+the less our actions are inspected and controuled; and the fainter that
+cruel comparison becomes betwixt our own subjection, and the freedom, or
+even dominion of another." But, at best, the comforts of slaves must be
+precarious. Here it is not uncommon to give a slave his freedom, when he
+is too old or too infirm to work; that is, to turn him out of doors to
+beg or starve. A few days ago, as a party of gentlemen were returning
+from a _pic nic_, they found a poor negro woman lying in a dying state,
+by the side of the road. The English gentlemen applied to their
+Portuguese companions to speak to her, and comfort her, as thinking she
+would understand them better; but they said, "Oh, 'tis only a black: let
+us ride on," and so they did without further notice. The poor creature,
+who was a dismissed slave, was carried to the English hospital, where
+she died in two days. Her diseases were age and hunger.[71] The slaves I
+saw here working in the distillery, appear thin, and I should say
+over-worked; but, I am told, that it is only in the distilling months
+that they appear so, and that at other seasons they are as fat and
+cheerful as those in the city, which is saying a great deal. They have a
+little church and burying-ground here, and as they see their little lot
+the lot of all, are more contented than I thought a slave could be.
+
+[Note 70: _Itapa_ is the Indian name: the Portuguese termination,
+_Rica_, indicates the fertility of the island. On this island Francesco
+Pereira Coutinho, the first donatory, was killed by the savages. He had
+founded his city near the watering place called Villa Velha, by what is
+now the fort of Gamboa, and not far from the habitation of the
+adventurer Caramuru. The first Christian settlement formed here was in
+1561, when the Jesuits founded an Aldea, and collected and humanised
+some of the natives.]
+
+[Note 71: "The custom of exposing old, useless, or sick slaves, in
+an island of the Tyber, there to starve, seems to have been pretty
+common in Rome; and whoever recovered, after being so exposed, had his
+liberty given him, by an edict of the Emperor Claudius; where it was
+likewise forbid to _kill any slave, merely for old age or
+sickness_."--"We may imagine what others would practise, when it was the
+professed maxim of the elder Cato, to sell his superannuated slaves for
+any price, rather than maintain a useless burden."--_Discourses of the
+Populousness of Ancient Nations_.]
+
+Sugar is the principal product of Itaparica; but the greater part of the
+poultry, vegetables, and fruit, consumed in Bahia, are also from the
+island, and lime is made here in considerable quantities from the
+madrepores and corals found on the beach. This island used to furnish
+the neighbourhood with horses. When the English fleet and army stopped
+here, on the way to the Cape of Good Hope, the horses for the cavalry
+regiments were procured here. However, there is nothing remarkable in
+Itaparica but its fertility; the landscape is the same in character with
+that of Bahia, though in humbler style; but it is fresh and green, and
+pleasing. After dining in a palm-grove, and walking about till we were
+tired, we re-embarked to return; but the tide was unfavourable; we
+drifted among the rocks, where Coutinho, the first founder of the colony
+of Bahia, was wrecked and afterwards murdered by the natives, and we
+were in consequence four hours in returning home.
+
+26th, 27th, 28th, passed in pleasant enough intercourse with our
+countrymen, though neither of us were well enough to go much on shore,
+therefore our friends came to us. There are eighteen English mercantile
+houses established at Bahia, two French, and two German. The English
+trade is principally carried on with Liverpool, which supplies
+manufactured goods and salt, in exchange for sugars, rums, tobaccos,
+cottons, very little coffee, and molasses. Lately, sugars have been
+shipped, on English account, for Hamburgh to a great extent, and I
+believe part of the returns are in German or Prussian woollen-cloths.
+The province of Bahia, by its neglect of manufactures, is quite
+dependent on commerce. But the distance from the sea of the province of
+Minas Geraes, has induced the inhabitants to weave not only enough
+coarse cotton cloths for home consumption, but even to become an article
+of trade with the other captaincies.
+
+In the province of Esperitu Santo, cotton sail-cloth is made; but the
+chief trade of this place is _slaving_. This year no less than
+seventy-six slave-ships have sailed, without reckoning the smugglers in
+that line.
+
+_Sunday, 28th._--Mr. Pennell had kindly fixed to-day for giving us a
+party in the country, and accordingly some of our young people were to
+go and assist in putting up tents, &c.; but a miscalculation of tide and
+time, and a mistake as to the practicability of landing on part of the
+beach beyond the light-house, occasioned a variety of adventures and
+accidents, without which I have always heard no f�te champ�tre could be
+perfect. However that may be, our party was a pleasant one. Instead of
+the tents, we made use of a country-house called the Ro�a, where beauty
+of situation, and neatness in itself and garden, made up for whatever we
+might have thought romantic in the tents, had they been erected. It is
+the fashion to pave the courts of the country-houses here with dark
+pebbles, and to form in the pavement a sort of mosaic with milk-white
+shells. The gardens are laid out in alleys, something in the oriental
+taste. The millions of ants, which often in the course of a single night
+leave the best-clothed orange-tree bare both of leaves and flowers,
+render it necessary to surround each tree with a little stucco wall, or
+rather canal, in which there is water, till they are strong enough to
+recover if attacked by the ants. In the garden at Ro�a, every shrub of
+value, either for fruit or beauty, was so fenced, and there were seats,
+and water channels, and porcelain flower-pots, that made me almost think
+myself in the East. But there is a newness in every thing here, a want
+of interest on account of what has been, that is most sensibly felt. At
+most, we can only go back to the naked savage who devoured his prisoner,
+and adorned himself with bones and feathers here. In the East,
+imagination is at liberty to expatiate on past grandeur, wisdom, and
+politeness. Monuments of art and of science meet us at every step:
+_here_, every thing, nature herself, wears an air of newness, and the
+Europeans, so evidently foreign to the climate, and their African
+slaves, repugnant to every wholesome feeling, show too plainly that they
+are intruders, ever to be in harmony with the scene. However, Ro�a is
+beautiful, and all those grave thoughts did not prevent us from
+delighting in the fair prospect of
+
+    "Hill and valley, fountain and fresh shade;"
+
+nor enjoying the scent of oleander, jasmine, tuberose, and rose,
+although they are adopted, not native children of the soil.
+
+Of the Portuguese society here I know so very little, that it would be
+presumptuous to give an opinion of it. I have met with two or three
+well-informed men of the world, and some lively conversable women; but
+none of either sex that at all reminded me of the well-educated men and
+women of Europe. Here the state of general education is so low, that
+more than common talent and desire of knowledge is requisite to attain
+any; therefore the clever men are acute, and sometimes a little vain,
+feeling themselves so much above their fellow-citizens, and the portion
+of book-learning is small. Of those who read on political subjects, most
+are disciples of Voltaire, and they outgo his doctrines on politics, and
+equal his indecency as to religion; hence to sober people who have seen
+through the European revolutions, their discourses are sometimes
+disgusting. The Portuguese seldom dine with each other; when they do, it
+is on some great occasion, to justify a splendid feast: they meet every
+evening either at the play, or in private houses, and in the last case
+gamble very deeply. The English society is just such as one may expect.
+A few merchants, not of the first order, whose thoughts are engrossed by
+sugars and cottons, to the utter exclusion of all public; matters that
+do not bear directly on their private trade, and of all matters of
+general science or information. Not one knew the name of the plants
+around his own door; not one is acquainted with the country ten miles
+beyond St. Salvador's; not one could tell me even the situation of the
+fine red clay, of which the only manufacture, pottery, here is made: in
+short, I was completely out of patience with these incurious
+money-makers. I was perhaps unjust to my countrymen: I dare say there
+are many who _could_ have told me these things, but I am sure none _did_
+tell me, and equally sure that I asked information of all I met with.
+But a woman is not, I believe, considered as privileged to know any
+thing by these commercial personages. The English are, however,
+hospitable and sociable among each other. They often dine together: the
+ladies love music and dancing, and some of the men gamble as much as the
+Portuguese. Upon the whole, society is at a low, very low scale here
+among the English. Good eating and good drinking they contrive, to have,
+for the flesh, fish, and fowl are good; fruits and vegetables various
+and excellent, and bread of the finest. Their slaves, for the English
+are all served by slaves, indeed, eat a sort of porridge of mandioc meal
+with small squares of jerked beef stirred into it, or, as their greatest
+luxury, stewed caravansas; and this is likewise the principal food of
+the lower classes even of the free inhabitants. In the fruit season,
+pumpkins, jackfruit, cocoa-nut, and melons, nearly take place of the
+mandioc. The huts of the poor are formed of upright poles, with branches
+of trees wattled between, and covered and lined either with cocoa-leaf
+mats, or clay; the roofs are also thatched. The better houses are built
+either of a fine blue stone, quarried on the beach of Victoria, or of
+brick. They are all white-washed: where the floor is not laid with wood,
+a fine red brick, six to nine inches square, and three in thickness, is
+used, and they are roofed with round red tiles. The houses are generally
+of one story high, with a room or two above by way of a look-out house.
+Under the house is generally a sort of cellar, in which the slaves live;
+and really I have sometimes wondered that human beings could exist in
+such.
+
+_Friday, 2d November._--Several of our people having yielded to the
+temptations of some worthless persons in the town, who induce sailors to
+desert in order that they themselves may profit by the premium given for
+the discovery of deserters, and having consequently swam on shore, the
+frigate has been moved up the harbour as far as Bom Fim, and it is
+intended to take her up still higher. I am glad of the opportunity of
+seeing more of this beautiful bay, and shall endeavour to land on the
+Ilha do Medo, or the point of Itaparica, where the first adventurers
+from Europe underwent hardship that appear hardly credible in our modern
+days. We also wish to examine the harbour within the funil or passage
+between the two islands, and into which the river or creek of Nazareth,
+which supplies Bahia with great part of the mandioc flour consumed
+there, runs.
+
+_Saturday, 3d November._--Our plan of proceeding farther up the harbour
+is suspended for the present. The disputes between the European
+Portuguese and the Brazilians in the city, seem to be about to come to a
+crisis. Early this morning, we learned that troops were assembling from
+all quarters, and that therefore it was advisable, for the protection of
+the British property and the persons of the merchants, that the ship
+should return to her station opposite to the town. The first provisional
+junta has lost several of its members, two of them being gone as
+delegates to Lisbon, and others being absent on account of ill health or
+disgust. The party opposing this junta talk loudly of independence, and
+wish at least one-half of the members of the provisional government to
+be native Brazilians. They also complain bitterly, that instead of
+redressing the evils they before endured, the junta has increased them
+by several arbitrary acts; and assert that one of the members who has a
+great grazing estate, has procured a monopoly, by which no man can
+supply the market with beef without his permission, so that the city is
+ill supplied. Such a ground of complaint will always excite popular
+indignation, and it appears now to be at its height. There has already
+been some skirmishing, in which, however, I hear there have been only
+three men killed. The Brazilian artillery occupies Fort San Pedro; the
+governor, and the wreck of the junta, have the town and the palace. The
+governor, indeed, has arrested several, I think seventeen persons, in an
+arbitrary manner; among these, two of my acquaintance, Colonel
+Salvador[72] and Mr. Soares, and have put them, some on board the Don
+Pedro, some on board transports in the bay, for the purpose of
+transporting them to Lisbon. Some of these persons are not permitted to
+have any communication with their families; others, more favoured, are
+allowed to carry them with them. These are not the means to conciliate.
+We have sent on shore to offer shelter to the ladies, and Captain Graham
+has agreed upon certain signals with the consul, in case of increased
+danger to his family.
+
+[Note 72: Colonel Salvador, though born in Portugal, has all his
+property and connections in Brazil; he served with credit in the
+peninsula. Mr. Soares, a Brazilian, had been long in England.]
+
+_Sunday, November 4th._--On looking out at daylight this morning, we saw
+artillery planted, and troops drawn up on the platform opposite to the
+opera house. I went on shore to see if Miss Pennell, her sister, or any
+of our other friends would come on board; but they naturally prefer
+staying to the last with their fathers and husbands. Notwithstanding the
+warlike movements of these last two days, it appears most likely that
+the chiefs of the opposite parties will agree to await the decision of
+the cortes at Lisbon, with respect to their grievances, and at least a
+temporary peace will succeed to this little disturbance.
+
+It appears, however, next to impossible that things should remain as
+they are. The extreme inconvenience of having the supreme courts of
+justice so far distant as Lisbon must be more and more felt as the
+country increases in population and riches. The deputies to the cortes
+are too far removed from their constituents to be guided in their
+deliberations or votes by them; and the establishment of so many juntas
+of government, each only accountable to the cortes, must be a cause of
+internal disorder, if not of civil war, at no distant time.
+
+_Monday, 5th._--A day of heavy tropical rain, which has forced both
+parties on shore to house their guns, and to desist for the present from
+all farther hostility. The governor, however, continues his arbitrary
+arrestations. It is curious how ancient authority awes men; for surely
+it is the accustomed obedience to the name of the king, and the dread of
+the name of rebellion, that prevents the Brazilians, armed as they are,
+from resisting these things.
+
+_Tuesday, November 6th._--The Morgiana, Captain Finlaison, came in from
+Rio de Janeiro. She belongs to the African station, and came to Brazil
+about some prize business connected with the slave trade. Captain
+Finlaison tells me tales that make my blood run cold, of horrors
+committed in the French slave ships especially. Of young negresses,
+headed up in casks and thrown overboard, when the ships are chased. Of
+others, stowed in boxes when a ship was searched; with a bare chance of
+surviving their confinement. But where the trade is once admitted, no
+wonder the heart becomes callous to the individual sufferings of the
+slaves. The other day I took up some old Bahia newspapers, numbers of
+the Idade d'Ouro, and I find in the list of ships entered during three
+months of this year,
+
+                                                     Alive.    Dead.
+
+1 slave ship from Moyanbique, 25th March, with        313       180
+
+1 do.           6th March                             378        61
+
+1 do.          30th May                               293        10
+
+1 do.          29th June from Molendo,                357       102
+
+1 do.          26th June                              233        21
+                                                     ____       ___
+                                                     1574       374
+                                                     ____       ___
+
+So that of the cargoes of these five ships reckoned thus accidentally,
+more than one in five had died on the passage!
+
+It seems the English ships of war on the African coast are allowed to
+hire free blacks to make up their complements when deficient. There are
+several now onboard the Morgiana, two of whom are petty officers, and
+they are found most useful hands. They are paid and victualled like our
+own seamen.[73]
+
+[Note 73: The negroes of the _Cru_ nation come to Sierra Leone from
+a great distance, and hire themselves out for any kind of labour, for
+six, eight, or ten months, sometimes for a year or two. They have then
+earned enough to go home and live like idle gentlemen, for at least
+twice that time, and then return to work. When their engagements on
+board men of war are fulfilled, they receive regular discharges and
+certificates.]
+
+_Thursday, November 8._--We went on board Morgiana to call on Mrs.
+Macgregor, a lively intelligent Spaniard, who with her husband, Colonel
+Macgregor, is a passenger. She joined me in visits on shore, where the
+only news is, that the governor continues to arrest all persons
+suspected of favouring independence.
+
+_November 9._--The Brazilians who occupy the forts of San Pedro and
+Santa Maria, had threatened to fire on the Don Pedro, if she attempted
+to get under weigh with the state prisoners on board. Nevertheless
+during the night she bent her sails, and sailed early this morning,
+carrying, it is said, twenty-eight gentlemen, who have been taken up
+without any ostensible reason. They are understood to have spoken in
+favour of the independence of Brazil. Several of our officers went on
+shore to dine with the gentlemen of the English club, who meet once a
+month, to eat a very good dinner, and drink an immoderate quantity of
+wine for the honour of their country.
+
+_Tuesday, November 13._--We have had, for ten days past, some of the
+heaviest showers I remember to have seen, and in going to and from the
+ship, we have generally been wet through; nevertheless some of our
+friends ventured on board to-day to dine with us, among the rest Colonel
+and Mrs. Macgregor; they were a little late, owing to a skirmish between
+the Portuguese and Brazilians, that occurred close to their house, just
+as they were setting off. Apparently it had not been premeditated, for
+the parties were fighting with sticks and stones, as well as swords and
+fire-arms. The combatants would not allow any officer in Portuguese
+regimentals to pass, so that Colonel Macgregor was obliged to go back
+and change his dress before he could come. All this appears to proceed
+more from a want of police than any other cause.
+
+_16th_.--Several of our young people and I myself have begun to feel the
+bad effects of exposing ourselves too much to the sun and the rain.
+Yesterday I was so unwell as to put on a blister for cough and pain in
+my side, and several of the others have slight degrees of fever. But
+generally speaking, the ship's company has been remarkably healthy.
+
+_Friday, 16th_.--Captain Graham taken suddenly and alarmingly ill.
+Towards evening he became better, and was able to attend to a most
+painful business. Last night a man belonging to the Morgiana was killed,
+and the corporal of marines belonging to the ship severely wounded, on
+shore. It appears that neither of these men had so much as seen the
+murderer before. He had been drinking in the inner room of a venda with
+some sailors, and having quarrelled with one of them, he fancied the
+rest were going to seize him, when he drew his knife to intimidate them,
+and rushed furiously out of the room. The young man who was killed was
+standing at the outer door, waiting for one of his companions who was
+within, and the murderer seeing him there, imagined he also wished to
+stop him, and therefore stabbed him to the heart. Our corporal, who was
+passing by, saw the deed, and of course attempted to seize him, and in
+the attempt received a severe wound. It is said, I know not with what
+truth, that Captain Finlaison is so hated here, on account of his
+activity against the slave trade, that none of his people are safe, and
+the death of the unfortunate man is attributed to that cause; but it
+appears to have been the result of a drunken quarrel. The town, however,
+appears to be in a sad disorderly state: besides our two men, a
+Brazilian officer was dangerously wounded in the dark, and three
+Brazilian soldiers and their corporal were found murdered last night.
+Captain Graham had sent one of his officers to act for him on the
+occasion, and to apply through the British consul to the police
+magistrate, Francisco Jose Perreira, for redress.[74] He himself is
+sensibly worse since he exerted himself to attend to this painful
+business.
+
+[Note 74: Mr. Pennell accordingly wrote to Mr. Perreira, stating the
+circumstance and also that the prisoner was taken. The magistrate
+assured him that he had laid his communication before the provisional
+government, and that the punishment directed by law should be inflicted,
+and the greatest sorrow was expressed by the junta for the accident.
+Colonel Madera, commanding the active military police, also assured
+Mr.---- the lieutenant of the Doris, on his honour, that the assassin
+should be brought to trial. But it was not done while we remained in
+Brazil, and it is probable not at all. The political state of Bahia
+shortly afterwards would scarcely leave leisure for such a matter.]
+
+The disorders of this climate are sadly enfeebling; they attack both
+mind and body, producing a painful sensitiveness to the slightest
+incident.
+
+_November 18th._--Our invalids have been sadly disturbed by the rockets
+which have been fired, ever since sunrise, from the church of our Lady
+of Conception[75], whose feast is on the 8th of December. But the three
+Sundays previous to it the church and convent are adorned, sermons are
+preached, rockets are fired, contributions are made, and the shipping in
+the harbour fire salooes at sunrise, at noon, and at sunset. The annual
+expense of rockets, and other fireworks, is enormous. Those used in
+Brazil all come from the East Indies and China. Sometimes, when
+manufactured goods are unsaleable here, the merchant ships them on board
+a Portuguese East Indiaman, and gets in return fireworks, which never
+fail to pay well. I have seen a set of cut-glass sent to Calcutta for
+the purpose, or a girandole, too handsome for Brazilian purchasers.
+
+[Note 75: One of the two parishes of the lower town.]
+
+Yesterday the ship's pinnace, which had been absent five days with the
+master, my cousin Glennie, and young Grey, returned. They had gone to
+examine the river of Cachoeira, and came back highly delighted with
+their trip, though they had some very bad weather; however, with
+tarpaulines, cloaks, and a blanket or two, which I insisted on their
+taking, they managed so well as to have returned in good health.
+
+Cachoeira, about fifty miles from Bahia, is a good town, where there is
+one English merchant resident. It is populous[76] and busy; for it is
+the place where the produce, chiefly cotton and tobacco, of a very
+considerable district, is collected, in order to be shipped for Bahia.
+It is divided into two unequal parts, by the river Paraguazu. Its parish
+church is dedicated to our Lady of the Rosary. It has two convents, four
+chapels, an hospital, a fountain, and three stone bridges over the small
+rivers Pitanga and Caquende, on which there are very extensive
+sugar-works. There are wharfs on both sides of the river. The streets
+are well paved, and the houses built of stone, and tiled: the country is
+flat, but agreeable. The river is not navigable more than two miles
+above the town; it there narrows and becomes interrupted by rocks and
+rapids, and there is a wooden bridge across it. About five miles from
+Cachoeira, there is an insulated conical hill, called that of
+Conception, whence there often proceed noises like explosions. These
+noises are considered in this country as indicative of the existence of
+metals. Near this place a piece of native copper was found, weighing
+upwards of fifty-two arobas. It is now in the museum of Lisbon.
+
+[Note 76: In 1804 it contained 1088 hearths.]
+
+Our exploring party landed on several of the islands, on their way up
+the river, and were every where received with great hospitality, and
+delighted with the beauty and fertility of the country.
+
+_22d._--At length all the invalids, excepting myself, are better; but,
+with another blister on, I can do little but write, or look from the
+cabin windows; and when I do look, I am sure to see something
+disagreeable. This very moment, there is a slave ship discharging her
+cargo, and the slaves are singing as they go ashore. They have left the
+ship, and they see they will be on the dry land; and so, at the command
+of their keeper, they are singing one of their country songs, in a
+strange land. Poor wretches! could they foresee the slave-market, and
+the separations of friends and relations that will take place there, and
+the march up the country, and the labour of the mines, and the
+sugar-works, their singing would be a wailing cry. But that "blindness
+to the future kindly given," allows them a few hours of sad enjoyment.
+This is the principal slave port in Brazil; and the negroes appear to me
+to be of a finer, stronger race, than any I have ever seen. One of the
+provisional junta of government is the greatest slave merchant here.
+Yet, I am happy to say, the Bahia press has lately actually printed a
+pamphlet against the slave trade. Within the last year, seventy-six
+ships have sailed from this port for the coast of Africa; and it is well
+known that many of them will slave to the northward of the line, in
+spite of all treaties to the contrary: but the system of false papers is
+so cunningly and generally carried on, that detection is far from easy;
+and the difficulties that lie in the way of condemning any slave ship,
+render it a matter of hazard to detain them. An owner, however, is well
+satisfied, if one cargo in three arrives safe; and eight or nine
+successful voyages make a fortune. Many Brazilian Portuguese have no
+occupation whatever: they lay out a sum of money in slaves; which slaves
+are ordered out every day, and must bring in a certain sum each night;
+and these are the boatmen, chairmen, porters, and weavers of mats and
+hats that are to be hired in the streets and markets, and who thus
+support their masters.
+
+_24th._--Yesterday the Morgiana sailed for Pernambuco, whence she will
+return to the coast of Africa. To-day the Antigone French frigate,
+commanded by Captain Villeneuve, nephew to the admiral of that name who
+was at Trafalgar, came in. Whenever France and England are not at war,
+the French and English certainly seek each other, and like each other
+more than any other two nations: and yet they seem like two great heads
+of parties, and the other nations take the French and English sides, as
+if there were no cause of opposition but theirs. Others may account for
+the fact, I am satisfied that it is so; and that whenever we meet a
+Frenchman in time of peace, in a distant country, it is something akin
+to the pleasure of seeing a countryman; and it is particularly the case
+with French naval men. Frequent intercourse of any kind, even that of
+war, begets a similarity of habits, manners, and ideas; so I suppose we
+have grown alike by fighting, and are all the more likely to fight
+again.
+
+There is a report, but I believe not well founded, that placards are
+stuck up about the city threatening that all Europeans, especially
+Portuguese, who do not leave the place before the 24th of December,
+shall be massacred. I listen to these things, because reports, even when
+false, indicate something of the spirit of the times.
+
+_December 8th._--This place is now so quiet that the merchants feel
+quite safe, and therefore we are leaving Bahia. I have taken leave of
+many hospitable persons who have shown us much attention; but my health
+is so indifferent, that but for the sake of that civility which I felt
+due to them, I should not have gone ashore again: however, it is all
+done, and we are in the act of getting under weigh.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_9th._--As we sailed out of the bay, we amused ourselves with
+conjecturing the possible situation of Robinson Crusoe's plantation in
+the bay of All Saints. Those who had been at Cachoeira chose that it
+should be in that direction; while such as had been confined to the
+neighbourhood of the city pitched on different sitios, all or any of
+which might have answered the purpose. There is a charm in Defoe's works
+that one hardly finds, excepting in the Pilgrim's Progress. The language
+is so homely, that one is not aware of the poetical cast of the
+thoughts; and both together form such a reality, that the parable and
+the romance alike remain fixed on the mind like truth. And what is
+truth? Surely not the mere outward acts of vulgar life; but rather the
+moral and intellectual perceptions by which our judgment, and actions,
+and motives, are directed. Then, are the wanderings of Christiana and
+Mercy, and the sufferings of the shipwrecked mariner, true in the right
+sense of the word truth? True as the lofty creations of Milton, and the
+embodied visions of Michael Angelo; because they have their basis and
+their home in the heart, and soul, and understanding of man.
+
+But we are once more upon the ocean, and our young people are again
+observing the stars, and measuring the distances of the planets. I
+grieve that one of the most promising of them is now an inmate in my
+cabin, in a very delicate state of health.
+
+_12th._--Yesterday we found soundings, which indicated the neighbourhood
+of the Abrolhos, and lay-to all night, that we might ascertain the exact
+position of those dangerous shoals; which, at the distance of three
+leagues, bearing N. W. by W., appeared like one long ragged island to
+the westward, and two smaller very low to the east.
+
+The banks extend very far out to the eastward. There is a deep passage
+between them and the mainland. With a little attention, a most
+profitable fishery might be established here.
+
+_Rio de Janeiro, Saturday, December 15th, 1821_.--Nothing that I have
+ever seen is comparable in beauty to this bay. Naples, the Firth of
+Forth, Bombay harbour, and Trincomalee, each of which I thought perfect
+in their beauty, all must yield to this, which surpasses each in its
+different way. Lofty mountains, rocks of clustered columns, luxuriant
+wood, bright flowery islands, green banks, all mixed with white
+buildings; each little eminence crowned with its church or fort; ships
+at anchor or in motion; and innumerable boats flitting about in such a
+delicious climate,--combine to render Rio de Janeiro the most enchanting
+scene that imagination can conceive. We anchored first close to a small
+island, called Villegagnon, about two miles from the entrance of the
+harbour. That island, however small, was the site of the first colony
+founded by the Frenchman Villegagnon, under the patronage of Coligny,
+whom he betrayed. The admiral had intended it as a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots; but when Villegagnon had, by his means, formed the
+settlement, he began to persecute them also: the colony fell into decay,
+and became an easy conquest to Mem de Sa, the Portuguese captain-general
+of Brazil.[77]
+
+[Note 77: See Introduction, p. 15.]
+
+We moved from this station to one more commodious nearer the town, and
+higher up the harbour, towards the afternoon, which soon became so
+rainy, that I gave up all hopes of getting ashore. I was really
+disappointed to find that my excellent friend, the Hon. Capt. S. had
+left the station with his frigate before we arrived; I had, however, the
+pleasure of receiving a kind letter from him, and he had left me a copy
+of the great Spanish dictionary. Nobody that has always lived at home,
+can tell the value of a kindness like this in a foreign land.
+
+_Sunday, 16th_.--I had the pleasure of seeing on board Mr. W. May, who
+has long been a resident in Brazil, and with whom I had spent many happy
+hours in early life. The pleasure such meetings give is of the purest
+and wholesomest nature. It quiets the passions by its own tranquillity;
+and, in recalling all the innocent and amiable feelings of youth, makes
+us almost forget those harsher emotions which intercourse with the
+world, and the operation of interest, passion, or suffering have raised.
+
+_Monday, 17th_.--By the assistance of some friends ashore, we have
+procured a comfortable house in one of the suburbs of Rio, called the
+Catete, from the name of a little river which runs through it into the
+sea. To this house I have brought my poor suffering midshipman,
+Langford; and trust that free air, moderate exercise, and a milk diet,
+will restore him. We have been visited by several persons, who all
+appear hospitable and kind, particularly the acting consul-general, Col.
+Cunningham, and his lady.
+
+_December 18th_.--I have begun house-keeping on shore. We find
+vegetables and poultry very good, but not cheap; fruit is very good and
+cheap; butcher's meat cheap, but very bad: there is a monopolist
+butcher, and no person may even kill an animal for his own use without
+permission paid for from that person; consequently, as there is no
+competition, he supplies the market as he pleases.[78] The beef is so
+bad, that it can hardly be used even for soup meat, three days out of
+four; and that supplied to the ships is at least as bad: mutton is
+scarce and bad: pork very good and fine; it is fed principally on
+mandioc and maize, near the town; that from a distance has the advantage
+of sugar cane. Fish is not so plentiful as it ought to be, considering
+the abundance that there is on the whole coast, but it is extremely
+good; oysters, prawns, and crabs are as good as in any part of the
+world. The wheaten bread used in Rio is chiefly made of American flour,
+and is, generally speaking, exceedingly good. Neither the captaincy of
+Rio, nor those to the north, produce wheat; but in the high lands of St.
+Paul's, and the Minas Geraes, and in the southern provinces, a good deal
+is cultivated, and with great success. The great article of food here is
+the mandioc meal, or farinha; it is made into thin broad cakes as a
+delicacy, but the usual mode of eating it is dry: when at the tables of
+the rich, it is used with every dish of which they eat, as we take
+bread; with the poor, it has every form--porridge, brose, bread; and no
+meal is complete without it: next to mandioc, the feijoam or dry
+kidney-bean, dressed in every possible way, but most frequently stewed
+with a small bit of pork, garlic, salt, and pimento, is the favourite
+food; and for dainties, from the noble to the slave, sweetmeats of every
+description, from the most delicate preserves and candies to the
+coarsest preparations of treacle, are swallowed wholesale.
+
+[Note 78: This was no longer the case at my second visit to Rio, and
+every thing eatable was much improved.]
+
+We have hired a horse for our invalid, and I have borrowed one for
+myself. These animals are rather pretty at Rio, but far from strong;
+they are fed on maize and capim, or Guinea grass, which was introduced
+of late years into Brazil, and thrives prodigiously: it is cultivated by
+planting the joints; the stem and leaves are as large as those of
+barley; it grows sometimes to the height of six or seven feet, and the
+flower is a large loose pannicle. The quantity necessary for each horse
+per day costs about eightpence, and his maize as much more. The common
+horses here sell for from twenty to one hundred dollars; the fine Buenos
+Ayres horses fetch a much higher price. Mules are generally used for
+carriages, being much hardier, and more capable of bearing the summer
+heat.
+
+_December 19th_.--I walked by the side of Langford's horse up one of the
+little valleys at the foot of the Corcorado: it is called the
+Laranjeiros, from the numerous orange trees which grow on each side of
+the little stream that beautifies and fertilises it. Just at the
+entrance to that valley, a little green plain stretches itself on either
+hand, through which the rivulet runs over its stony bed, and affords a
+tempting spot to groups of washerwomen of all hues, though the greater
+number are black; and they add not a little to the picturesque effect of
+the scene: they generally wear a red or white handkerchief round the
+head; and a full-plaited mantle tied over one shoulder, and passed under
+the opposite arm, with a full petticoat, is a favourite dress. Some wrap
+a long cloth round them, like the Hindoos; and some wear an ugly
+European frock, with a most ungraceful sort of bib tied before them.
+Round the washerwoman's plain, hedges of acacia and mimosa fence the
+gardens of plantains, oranges, and other fruits which surround every
+villa; and beyond these, the coffee plantations extend far up the
+mountain, whose picturesque head closes the scene. The country-houses
+here are neither large nor magnificent; but they are decorated with
+verandas, and have often a handsome flight of steps up to the
+dwelling-house of the master, beneath which are either store-houses, or
+the habitations of the slaves: they have all a gateway, large and
+handsome, whatever the house may be; and that gateway generally leads to
+at least one walk where every kind of flower is cultivated. Brazil is
+particularly rich in splendid creeping flowers and shrubs; and these are
+mingled with the orange and lemon blossoms, and the jasmine and rose
+from the East, till the whole is one thicket of beauty and fragrance. I
+scarcely know whether my invalid or myself enjoyed the morning most. A
+few more such, and I should think all sickness must disappear.
+
+_December 20th._--Spent in paying and receiving visits in the
+neighbourhood. The houses are built a good deal like those of the south
+of Europe: there is generally a court, on one side of which is the
+dwelling-house, and the others are formed by the offices and garden.
+Sometimes the garden is immediately close to the house, and in the
+suburbs this is generally the case. In town, very few houses have the
+luxury of a garden at all. These gardens are rather like oriental
+flower-plots, but they assimilate well with the climate. The flowers of
+the parterres of Europe grow by the side of the gayer plants and shrubs
+of the country, shaded by the orange, banana, bread-fruit (now nearly
+naturalised here,) and the palms, between straight alleys of limes, over
+whose heads the African melia waves its lilac blossoms; and on the
+raised water channels, china vases are placed, filled with aloes and
+tuberoses, and here and there a statue intermixed. In these gardens
+there are occasionally fountains and seats under the trees, forming
+places of no undelightful rest in this hot climate.
+
+_Friday, December 21st._--Mr. Hayne, one of the commissioners of the
+slave trade commission, and his sister, having proposed a party to see
+the botanic gardens, we set off soon after daylight; and drove to
+their house on the bay of Boto Fogo, perhaps the most beautiful spot in
+the neighbourhood of Rio, rich as it is in natural beauty; and its
+beauty is increased by the numerous and pretty country-houses which now
+surround it. These have all grown up since the arrival of the court from
+Lisbon; before that time, this lovely spot was only inhabited by a few
+fishermen and gipsies, with, it might be, a villa or two on the sloping
+banks by the fruit gardens. Beyond the bay, we drove through a beautiful
+lane to the Lake of Rodrigo de Freitas: it is nearly circular, and about
+five miles in circumference; it is surrounded by mountains and forests,
+except where a short sandy bar affords an occasional outlet to the sea,
+when the lake rises so high as to threaten inconvenience to the
+surrounding plantations. It is impossible to conceive any thing richer
+than the vegetation down to the very water's edge around the lake.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+We were to breakfast at the gardens, but as the weather is now hot, we
+resolved first to walk round them. They are laid out in convenient
+squares, the alleys being planted on either side with a very
+quick-growing nut tree, brought from Bencoolen originally, now
+naturalised here. The nut is as good as the filbert, and larger than the
+walnut, and yields abundance of oil; the leaf is about the size, and not
+unlike the shape, of that of the sycamore. The timber also is useful.
+The quick growth of this tree is unexampled among timber trees, and its
+height and beauty distinguish it from all others. The hedges between the
+compartments are of a shrub which I should have taken for myrtle, but
+that the leaves though firm are not fragrant. This garden was destined
+by the King for the cultivation of the oriental spices and fruits, and
+above all, of the tea plant, which he obtained, together with several
+families accustomed to its culture, from China. Nothing can be more
+thriving than the whole of the plants. The cinnamon, camphor, nutmeg,
+and clove, grow as well as in their native soil. The bread-fruit
+produces its fruit in perfection, and such of the oriental fruits as
+have been brought here ripen as well as in India. I particularly
+remarked the jumbo malacca, from India, and the longona (_Euphoria
+Longona_), a dark kind of lechee from China. I was disappointed to find
+no collection of the indigenous plants. However, so much has been done
+as to give reasonable hopes of farther improvement, when the political
+state of the country shall be quiet enough to permit attention to these
+things.
+
+The stream that waters the garden flows through a lovely valley, where
+the royal powder-mills are situated; but being fearful of too much
+exertion for Langford we put off visiting them to another day, and
+returned to the garden gate to breakfast. His Majesty John VI. built a
+small house there, with three or four rooms, to accommodate the royal
+party, when they visited the gardens. Our breakfast was prepared in the
+veranda of that house, from whence we had a charming view of the lake,
+with the mountains and woods,--the ocean, with three little islands that
+lie off the lake; and in the fore-ground a small chapel[79] and village,
+at the extremity of a little smooth green plain.
+
+[Note 79: Dedicated to St. John Baptist. I am not sure whether this
+or N.S. da Cabe�a is the mother church; the same clergyman officiates in
+both.]
+
+After waiting with our agreeable and well-informed friends till the
+sea-breeze set in, we returned part of the way along the lake, and then
+ascended to the parsonage of Nossa Senhora da Cabe�a, where we were
+joined by several other persons who had come to dine there with us. The
+Padre Manoel Gomez received us very kindly, and our pic-nic was spread
+in the ample veranda of his parsonage. Behind the veranda three small
+rooms served for sleeping-room, kitchen, and pantry. Half a dozen small
+cottages in the field behind contain the healthy-looking negroes who are
+employed in his coffee-grounds, and a swarm of children of every shade,
+between black and white. On a little eminence in the midst of these
+stands the chapel of Our Lady, which is the parish church of a large
+district. It is exceedingly small; but serves as the place where the
+sacraments are administered, and the licences granted for marriages,
+burials, and christenings. The owners of estates have generally private
+chapels, where daily mass is performed for the benefit of their own
+people; so that the parish church is only applied to on the
+above-mentioned occasions. About a stone's throw behind the chapel, a
+clear rivulet runs rapidly down the mountain, leaping from rock to rock,
+in a thousand little cascades, and forming, here and there, delightful
+baths. Nor is it without its inhabitants, which increase the simple
+luxuries of the Padre's table. He tells me the crawfish in his stream
+are better than any in the neighbourhood; the water itself is pure,
+light, and delicate.
+
+At length all our friends had assembled, and we returned to the veranda
+to dine. To judge by the materials of the feast, so blended were the
+productions of every climate that we could scarcely have pronounced in
+what part of the world we were, had not the profusion of ananas and
+plantains, compared with the small quantity of apples and peaches,
+reminded us of it. As is usual on such occasions, the oldest inhabitants
+of Brazil praised most what came from afar; while _we_ all gave the
+preference to the productions of the country.
+
+I was soon drawn away from the table by the beauty of the prospect,
+which I endeavoured to sketch. The coffee plantations are the only
+cultivated grounds hereabouts; and they are so thickly set with orange
+trees, lemons, and other tall shrubs, that they form in appearance
+rather a variety in the woods, than that mixture of cultivated with wild
+ground, which might be looked for so near a large city, where we expect
+to see the labour of man encroaching in some degree on the wild beauties
+of nature. But here vegetation is so luxuriant, that even the pruned and
+grafted tree springs up like the native of the forest.
+
+As every body was determined to be pleased, we all felt sorry when it
+was time to separate; but Burns has made all the reflections one can
+make on breaking up a pleasant party--
+
+    "Pleasures are like poppies spread,--
+    You seize the flower, the bloom is shed;
+    Or like the snow-falls in the river,--
+    A moment white, then lost for ever;
+    Or like the rainbow's fleeting form,
+    Evanishing amid the storm;
+    Or like the borealis race,
+    That flit ere you can point their place.
+    No man can tether time or tide:
+    The hour approaches,--_we_ must ride."
+
+And so we did.--We walked down to the foot of the hill, and each took
+his or her several conveyance; Colonel and Mrs. Cunningham their
+comfortable English chariot, Mr. and Miss Hayne their pretty curricle,
+and I my Rio caleche or _sege_,--a commodious but ugly carriage, very
+heavy, but well enough adapted to the rough roads between the garden and
+the town. The gentlemen all rode, and most of us carried home something.
+Fruit and flowers attracted some; Langford got a number of diamond
+beetles, and a magnificent butterfly, and I a most inadequate sketch of
+the scene from the Padre's house.
+
+_December 27th._--Since the jaunt to the botanical gardens, some of our
+invalids have been gaining ground: others who were well have become
+invalids, and I have done nothing but ride about or talk with them, and
+look at the beautiful views of the neighbourhood, and get a little
+better acquainted with the inhabitants; of whom the most amusing, so far
+as I have yet seen, are certainly the negroes, who carry about the fruit
+and vegetables for sale. The midshipmen have made friends with some of
+them. One of them has become quite a friend in the house; and after he
+has sold his master's fruit, earns a small gratuity for himself, by his
+tales, his dances, and his songs. His tribe, it seems, was at war with a
+neighbouring king, and he went out to fight when quite a boy, was taken
+prisoner, and sold. This is probably the story of many: but our friend
+tells it with action and emphasis, and shows his wounds, and dances his
+war dance, and shouts his wild song, till the savage slave becomes
+almost a sublime object. I have been for an hour to-night at a very
+different scene, a ball given by Mr. B----, a respectable English
+merchant. The Portuguese and Brazilian ladies are decidedly superior in
+appearance to those of Bahia; they look of higher caste: perhaps the
+residence of the court for so many years has polished them. I cannot
+say the men partake of the advantage; but I cannot yet speak Portuguese
+well enough to dare to pronounce what either men or women really are. As
+to the English, what can I say? They are very like all one sees at home,
+in their rank of life; and the ladies, very good persons doubtless,
+would require Miss Austin's pen to make them interesting. However, as
+they appear to make no pretensions to any thing but what they are, to me
+they are good-humoured, hospitable, and therefore pleasing.
+
+_Monday, 31st Dec. 1822_.--I went to town for the first time; our road
+lay through the suburb of the Catete for about half a mile. Some
+handsome houses are situated on either hand, and the spaces between are
+filled with shops, and small houses inhabited by the families of the
+shopkeepers in town. We then came to the hill called the Gloria, from
+the name of the church dedicated to N.S. da Gloria, on the eminence
+immediately overlooking the sea. The hill is green, and wooded and
+studded with country-houses. It is nearly insulated; and the road passes
+between it and another still higher, just where a most copious stream
+issues from an aqueduct (built, I think, by the Conde de Lavradio), and
+brings health and refreshment to this part of the town from the
+neighbouring mountains. Farther on, after passing the beach of the
+Gloria, we turned to the left, and entered the new part of that town
+through the arches of the great aqueduct built in 1718 by the viceroy
+Albuquerque. This supplies four copious fountains. The largest is the
+Carioca[80], near the convent of Sant Antonio; it has twelve mouths, and
+is most picturesque in itself: it is constantly surrounded by slaves,
+with their water-barrels, and by animals drinking. Just beyond are
+troughs of granite, where a crowd of washerwomen are constantly
+employed; and over against these, benches are placed, on which there are
+constantly seated new negroes for sale. The fountain of the Marecas is
+opposite to the public gardens, and near the new barracks; and, besides
+the spouts for water for the inhabitants, there are two troughs always
+full for the animals. The third is a very handsome one, in the palace
+square; and the fourth, called the Mouro, I did not see. The aqueduct
+is of brick, and is supported on two ranges of arches across the valley
+between two of the five hills of the city. The public buildings at Rio
+have nothing very remarkable about them. Even the churches present no
+architectural beauty, and owe the good effect they have in the general
+view to their size and situation. There are seven parish churches, and
+numerous chapels dependent on each. The first and eldest parish is that
+of St. Sebastian; the church dedicated to whom is the royal chapel, the
+only one I saw to-day. It is handsome within, richly gilt, and the
+pictures on the ceiling are far from contemptible; but I cannot praise
+that of the altar-piece, where Our Lady is covering with her cloak the
+Queen Dona Maria, and all the royal family, on their arrival in Brazil.
+The choir is served in a manner that would not disgrace Italy. I
+attended at vespers, and have seldom been more gratified with the music
+of the evening service. This the chapel owes to the residence of the
+royal family, whose passion and talent for music are hereditary.
+Adjoining to this chapel is the church and convent of the Carmelites,
+which forms part of the palace; and within which is the royal library of
+70,000 volumes, where on all days, except holidays, the public are
+admitted to study from nine till one o'clock in the forenoon, and from
+four o'clock till sunset. This part of the palace occupies one side of a
+handsome square: the palace itself fills up another; a third has private
+houses, built uniformly with the palace, besides the fish-market; and
+the fourth is open to the sea. The water-edge is faced with a handsome
+granite pier and steps, the blocks of which are bolted with copper. In
+the centre of the pier there is a fountain, supplied from the aqueduct
+of Albuquerque; and altogether the appearance of the palace square is
+extremely handsome. We went thence into a street behind it, and saw the
+front of the senate-house, which is connected with the palace, and the
+cemetery of the Carmelite church, which is a prettier thing than
+church-yards usually are. In the centre of a small quadrangle there is a
+cross, and by it a young cypress tree: all around there are flowers, and
+sweet herbs, and porcelain vases, containing roses and aloes placed on
+little pedestals and on a broad low wall that surrounds the square. I
+looked at first in vain for graves; at length I observed on these low
+walls, and on the higher ones in the outer circle, indications of
+arches, each being numbered. These are the places for the dead, who are
+walled up there with quick-lime; and, at a certain period, the bones and
+ashes are removed to make room for others. At the time of removal, if
+the dead has a friend who wishes it, the remains are collected in urns
+or other receptacles, and placed in a building appropriated for them, or
+where the friend pleases; otherwise they go to the common receptacle,
+and perish totally by the addition of more quick-lime. This is, I doubt
+not, the wholesomest way of disposing of the dead; and, even to the
+sense, is better than the horrid burials at Bahia, where they must
+infect the air. But there seems to me so little feeling in thus getting
+rid at once of the remains of that which has once been dear to us, that
+I went away in disgust.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 80: The nickname of the inhabitants of Rio is Carioca, from
+this fountain.]
+
+The city of Rio is more like an European city than either Bahia or
+Pernambuco; the houses are three or four stories high, with projecting
+roofs, and tolerably handsome. The streets are narrow, few being wider
+than that of the Corso at Rome, to which one or two bear a resemblance
+in their general air, and especially on days of festivals, when the
+windows and balconies are decorated with crimson, yellow, or green
+damask hangings. There are two very handsome squares, besides that of
+the palace. One, formerly the Ro�a, is now that of the Constitu�a�, to
+which the theatre, some handsome barracks and fine houses, behind which
+the hills and mountains tower up on two sides, give a very noble
+appearance. The other, the Campo de Santa Anna, is exceedingly
+extensive[81], but unfinished. Two of the principal streets run across
+it, from the sea-side to the extremity of the new town, nearly a league,
+and new and wide streets are stretching out in every direction. But I
+was too tired with going about in the heat of the day to do more than
+take a cursory view of these things, and could not even persuade myself
+to look at the new fountain which is supplied by a new aqueduct.
+
+[Note 81: It is 1713 feet square.]
+
+There is in the city an air of bustle and activity quite agreeable to
+our European eyes; yet the Portuguese all take their siesta after
+dinner. The negroes, whether free blacks or slaves, look cheerful and
+happy at their labour. There is such a demand for them, that they find
+full employment, and of course good pay, and remind one here as little
+as possible of their sad condition, unless, indeed, one passes the
+street of the Vallongo; then the slave-trade comes in all its horrors
+before one's eyes. On either hand are magazines of new slaves, called
+here _peices_; and there the wretched creatures are subject to all the
+miseries of a new negro's life, scanty diet, brutal examination, and the
+lash.
+
+_Tuesday, January 1st, 1823_.--I went to pay a second visit to an
+illustrious exile, Count Hogendorp, one of the Emperor Napoleon's
+generals: my first had been accidental. One morning last week, riding
+with two of our young midshipmen, we came to a pleasant-looking cottage,
+high on the side of the Corcovado, and at the door we saw a very
+striking figure, to whom I instantly apologized for intruding on his
+grounds, saying that we were strangers, and had come there accidentally.
+He instantly, with a manner that showed him to be no common person,
+welcomed us; asked our names, and on being told them, said he had heard
+of us; and, but for his infirmities, would have called on us. He
+insisted on our dismounting, as a shower was coming on, and taking
+shelter with him. By this time I perceived it was Count Hogendorp, and
+asked him if I had guessed rightly. He answered, yes; and added a few
+words, signifying that his master's servants, even in exile, carried
+that with them which distinguished them from other men.
+
+The Count is the wreck of a once handsome man: he has not lost his
+martial air: he is tall, but not too thin; his grey eyes sparkle with
+intelligence, and his pure and forcible language is still conveyed in a
+clear well-toned voice, though a little the worse for age. He ushered us
+into a spacious veranda, where he passes most of the day, and which is
+furnished with sofas, chairs, and tables: he then ordered his servant to
+bring breakfast; we had coffee, milk, and fresh butter, all the produce
+of his own farm; and, as we sat, we saw the showers passing by and
+under us across the valley, which leads the eye to the bay below. The
+General entered frankly into conversation, and during breakfast, and
+while the shower lasted, spoke almost incessantly of his imperial
+master. Early in life the Count had entered the army, a soldier of
+fortune, under Frederick of Prussia. On his return to his native
+country, Holland, he was employed by the States, successively, as
+governor of the eastern part of Java, and as envoy to one of the German
+courts. During his residence in Java, he had visited many of the English
+settlements on the main land of India, and had learned English, which he
+spoke well.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+On the annexation of Holland to France, he entered the French service
+with the rank of full colonel. He was always a great favourite with
+Napoleon, to whom his honesty and disinterestedness in money matters
+seem to have been valuable, in proportion as these qualities were scarce
+among his followers. The Count's affection for him is excessive, I
+should have said unaccountable, had he not shown me a letter written to
+him by the emperor's own hand, on the death of his child, in which,
+besides much general kindness, there is even a touch of tenderness I had
+not looked for. During the disastrous expedition to Russia, Hogendorp
+was entrusted with the government of Poland, and kept his court at
+Wilna. His last public service was performed in the defence of Hamburgh,
+where he was lieutenant governor. He would fain have attended the
+emperor into exile; but that not being allowed, he came hither, where,
+with the greatest economy, and, I believe, some assistance from the
+prince, who has great respect for him, he lives chiefly on the produce
+of his little farm.
+
+Most of these particulars I learnt from himself, while resting and
+sheltered from the rain, which lasted nearly an hour. He then showed me
+his house, which is small indeed, consisting of only three rooms,
+besides the veranda; his study, where a few books, two or three casts
+from antique bas reliefs, and some maps and prints, indicate the
+retirement of a gentleman; his bedroom, the walls of which, with a
+capricious taste, are painted black, and on that sombre ground,
+skeletons of the natural size, in every attitude of glee, remind one of
+Holbein's Dance of Death; and a third room occupied by barrels of orange
+wine, and jars of liqueur made of the grumaxama, at least as agreeable
+as cherry brandy which it resembles, the produce of his farm; and the
+sale of which, together with his coffee, helps out his slender income.
+
+The General, as he loves to be called, led us round his garden, and
+displayed with even fondness, his fruits and his flowers, extolled the
+climate, and only blamed the people, for the neglect and want of
+industry, which wastes half the advantages God has given them. On
+returning to the house, he introduced to me his old Prussian servant,
+who has seen many a campaign with him, and his negroes, whom he freed on
+purchasing them: he has induced the woman to wear a nose jewel, after
+the fashion of Java, which he seems to remember with particular
+pleasure. I was sorry to leave the count, but was afraid some alarm
+might be felt at home concerning us, and therefore bade him adieu.
+
+This evening I paid him another visit, and found him resting after
+dinner in his veranda. We had a good deal of conversation concerning the
+state of this country, from which, with prudence, every thing good may
+be hoped; and then the Count told me he was engaged in writing his
+memoirs, of which he showed me a part, telling me he meant to publish
+them in England. I have no doubt they will be written with fidelity, and
+will furnish an interesting chapter in the history of Napoleon. I was
+sorry to see the old gentleman suffering a good deal; and his age and
+infirmities seem to threaten a speedy termination to his active
+life.[82]
+
+[Note 82: Count Hogendorp died while I was in Chile. Napoleon had
+left him by his will five thousand pounds sterling, but the old man did
+not live to know this proof of the recollection of his old master. As he
+approached his end, the Emperor Don Pedro sent to him such assistance,
+and paid him such attention as his state required or admitted of, and
+had given orders concerning his funeral; but it was found at his death
+that he was a protestant, and one of the protestant consuls therefore
+caused him to be properly interred in the English burial-ground. On
+undressing him after death, his body was found to be tattooed like those
+of the natives of the eastern islands. I never saw the count after the
+1st of January.]
+
+_January 8th, 1822._--The only variety in my quiet life since the first,
+was afforded by a large and pleasant party at Miss Hayne's. There I saw
+abundance of jewels on the heads and necks of the elderly Portuguese
+ladies, and a good deal of beauty, and some grace, among the younger
+ones, whom I begin to understand pretty well. We had some good music,
+and there was a great deal of dancing, and not a little card-playing.
+
+To-day we left the house on shore, and are again at home on board the
+Doris, with all our invalids much better. Having settled every body
+comfortably, I went ashore to the opera, as it is the benefit night of a
+favourite musician, Rosquellas, whose name is known on both sides of the
+Atlantic. The theatre is very handsome; in size and proportion, some of
+our officers think it as large as the Haymarket, but I differ from them.
+It was opened on the 12th of October, 1813, the Prince Don Pedro's
+birth-day. The boxes are commodious, and I hear, that the unseen part of
+the theatre is comfortable for the actors, dressers, &c.; but the
+machinery and decorations are deficient. The evening's amusements
+consisted of a very stupid Portuguese comedy, relieved between the acts
+by scenes from an opera of Rossini's by Rosquellas, after which, he
+wasted a great deal of fine playing on some very ugly music.
+
+_Wednesday, January 9th._--To-day is expected to be a day of much
+importance to the future fate of Brazil. But I must go back to the
+arrival of a message from the cortes at Lisbon, intimating to the Prince
+their pleasure, that he should forthwith repair to Europe, and begin his
+education, and proceed to travel incognito through Spain, France, and
+England. This message excited the most lively indignation not only in
+His Royal Highness, but in the Brazilians from one end of the kingdom to
+the other. The Prince is willing to obey the orders of his father and
+the cortes, at the same time he cannot but feel as a man the want of
+decency of the message, and being thus bid to go home; and especially
+forbidden to carry any guards with him, as it should seem, lest they
+might have contracted too much attachment for his person. The Brazilians
+regard this step as preliminary to removing from this country the courts
+of justice, which have for fourteen years been held here, and so
+removing causes to Lisbon, by which means, Brazil would be again reduced
+to the condition of a dependent colony instead of enjoying equal rights
+and privileges with the mother country, a degradation they are by no
+means inclined to submit to.
+
+The feelings of the people are sufficiently shown, in the address sent
+to the Prince, a few days ago, (24th of December,) from St. Paul's; as
+follows:--
+
+"SIR,
+
+"We had already written to Your Royal Highness, before we received the
+extraordinary gazette of the 11th instant, by the last courier: and we
+had hardly fixed our eyes on the first decree of the Cortes concerning
+the organization of the governments of the provinces of Brazil, when a
+noble indignation fired our hearts: because we saw impressed on it a
+system of anarchy and slavery. But the second, in conformity to which
+Your Royal Highness is to go back to Portugal, in order to travel
+_incognito_ only through Spain, France, and England, inspired us with
+horror.
+
+"They aim at no less than disuniting us, weakening us, and in short,
+leaving us like miserable orphans, tearing from the bosom of the great
+family of Brazil the only common father who remained to us, after they
+had deprived Brazil of the beneficent founder of the kingdom, Your Royal
+Highness's august sire. They deceive themselves; we trust in God, who is
+the avenger of injustice; He will give us courage, and wisdom.
+
+"If, by the 21st article of the basis of the constitution, which we
+approve and swear to because it is founded on universal and public
+right, the deputies of Portugal were bound to agree that the
+constitution made at Lisbon could then be obligatory on the Portuguese
+resident in that kingdom; and, that, as for those in the other three
+parts of the world, it should only be binding when their legitimate
+representatives should have declared such to be their will: How dare
+those deputies of Portugal, without waiting for those of Brazil,
+legislate concerning the most sacred interest of each province, and of
+the entire kingdom? How dare they split it into detached portions, each
+insulated, and without leaving a common centre of strength and union?
+How dare they rob Your Royal Highness of the lieutenancy, granted by
+Your Royal Highness's august father, the King? How dare they deprive
+Brazil of the privy council, the board of conscience, the court of
+exchequer, the board of commerce, the court of requests, and so many
+other recent establishments, which promised such future advantage? Where
+now shall the wretched people resort in behalf of their civil and
+judicial interests? Must they now again, after being for twelve years
+accustomed to judgment at hand, go and suffer, like petty colonists, the
+delays and chicanery of the tribunals of Lisbon, across two thousand
+leagues of ocean, where the sighs of the oppressed lose all life and all
+hope? Who would credit it, after so many bland, but deceitful
+expressions of reciprocal equality and future happiness!!!
+
+"In the session of the 6th of August last, the deputy of the Cortes,
+Pereira do Carmo, said, (and he spoke the truth,) that the constitution
+was the social compact, in which, were expressed and declared the
+conditions on which a nation might wish to constitute itself a body
+politic: and that the end of that constitution, is the general good of
+each individual, who is to enter into that social compact. How then
+dares a mere fraction of the great Portuguese nation, without waiting
+for the conclusion of this solemn national compact, attack the general
+good of the principal part of the same, and such is the vast and rich
+kingdom of Brazil; dividing it into miserable fragments, and, in a word,
+attempting to tear from its bosom the representative of the executive
+power, and to annihilate by a stroke of the pen, all the tribunals and
+establishments necessary to its existence and future prosperity? This
+unheard-of despotism, this horrible political perjury, was certainly not
+merited by the good and generous Brazil. But the enemies of order in the
+Cortes of Lisbon deceive themselves if they imagine that they can thus,
+by vain words and hollow professions, delude the good sense of the
+worthy Portuguese of both worlds.
+
+"Your Royal Highness will observe that, if the kingdom of Ireland,
+which makes part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, besides that it
+is infinitely small compared to the vast kingdom of Brazil, and is
+separated from England but by a narrow arm of the sea, which is passed
+in a few hours, yet possesses a governor-general or viceroy, who
+represents the executive power of the King of the United Kingdom, how
+can it enter the head of any one who is not either profoundly ignorant,
+or rashly inconsiderate, to pretend, that the vast kingdom of Brazil,
+should remain without a centre of activity, and without a representative
+of the executive power: and equally without a power to direct our
+troops, so as that they may operate with celerity and effect, to defend
+the state against any unforeseen attack of external enemies, or against
+internal disorders and factions, which might threaten public safety, or
+the reciprocal union of the provinces!
+
+"Yes, august Sir! It is impossible that the inhabitants of Brazil, who
+are honest, and who pride themselves on being men, particularly the
+Paulistas, should ever consent to such absurdity and such despotism.
+Yes, august Sir, Your Royal Highness must remain in Brazil, whatever may
+be the projects of the constituent Cortes, not only for the sake of our
+general good, but even for the sake of the future prosperity and
+independence of Portugal itself. If Your Royal Highness, which is not to
+be believed, were to obey the absurd and indecent decree of the 29th of
+September, besides losing, in the world, the dignity of a man and of a
+prince, by becoming the slave of a small number of factious men, you
+would also have to answer before heaven for the rivers of blood which
+would assuredly inundate Brazil on account of your absence: because its
+inhabitants, like raging tigers, would surely remember the supine sloth
+in which the ancient despotism kept them buried, and in which a new
+constitutional Machiavelism aims even now to retain them.
+
+"We therefore entreat Your Royal Highness with the greatest fervour,
+tenderness, and respect to delay your return to Europe, where they wish
+to make you travel as a pupil surrounded by, tutors and spies: We
+entreat you to confide boldly in the love and fidelity of your
+Brazilians, and especially of your Paulistas, who are all ready to shed
+the last drop of their blood, and to sacrifice their fortunes, rather
+than lose the adored Prince in whom they have placed their well-founded
+hopes of national happiness and honour. Let Your Royal Highness wait at
+least for the deputies named by this province, and for the magistracy of
+this capital, who will as soon as possible present to Your Highness our
+ardent desires and firm resolutions; and deign to receive them, and to
+listen to them, with the affection and attention, which your Paulistas
+deserve from you.
+
+"May God preserve Your Royal Highness's august person many years.
+
+  "From the Government House of St. Paul's, 24th Dec. 1821.
+
+    John Carlos Augusto de Oeyenhausen, President.
+    Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Sylva, V. President.
+    Martim Francisco de Andrada, Secretary.
+    Lazaro Jose Gon�alves, Secretary.
+    Miguel Jos� de Oliveria Pinto, Secretary.
+    Manoel Rodrigues Jordaen.
+    Francisco Ignacio de Souza Guimaies.
+    Joao Ferreira de Oleveira Bueno.
+    Antonio Leite Pereira de Gama Lobo.
+    Daniel Pedro Muller.
+    Andre da Silva Gomes.
+    Francisco de Paulo e Oliveira.
+    Antonio Maria Quartini."[83]
+
+[Note 83: The Prince answered this on the 4th of January, by
+assuring the Paulistas that he had transmitted the letter to Lisbon, and
+that His Royal Highness hoped from the wisdom of the Cortes that they
+would take measures for the good and prosperity of Brazil.]
+
+This letter to the Prince expresses the sentiments of all the southern
+part of Brazil, and to a certain degree those of the northern
+captaincies also. The latter are certainly as averse as the former to
+the removal of the courts of justice to Lisbon, but they would prefer a
+more northern city for the capital; while here, there is a wish among a
+considerable number of persons to remove the capital to St. Paul's, on
+account of its safety, and its neighbourhood to the mines, where the
+greatest proportion of the riches, industry, and population of Brazil is
+situated. His Royal Highness has not yet expressed his determination.
+The officers of the Lisbon troops talk loudly of his being obliged to do
+his duty, and obey the mandate of the Cortes. The Brazilians are earnest
+in their hopes that he may stay, and there are even some that look
+forward to his declaring openly for the independence of this country.
+Whatever his resolution may be, it is feared that there will be much
+disturbance, if not a civil war. Our English merchants are calling
+meetings, I believe for the purpose of requesting this ship to remain,
+at least until one of equal force shall arrive, fearing that their
+persons and property will not be safe, and every body looks a little
+anxious.
+
+10_th._--Yesterday there was a meeting of the camara of Rio; and after a
+short consultation the members went in procession, accompanied by a
+great concourse of people, to the Prince, with a strong remonstrance
+against his leaving the country, and an earnest entreaty that he would
+remain among his faithful people. His Royal Highness received them
+graciously, and replied, that since it appeared to be the wish of all,
+and for the good of all, he would remain. This declaration was received
+with shouts of enthusiasm, which were answered by the discharge of
+artillery, and every mark of public rejoicing.
+
+The day as usual, on any occasion of public interest, was ended at the
+opera, but I unfortunately could not get ashore; however some of the
+officers went. The house was illuminated. The Prince and Princess
+appeared in full dress in the king's box, which is in the centre of the
+house. They were received with enthusiasm by the people, the national
+hymn was sung, and between the acts of the play the people called on
+several of their favourite orators to address the Prince and people, on
+the event of the day. This call was obeyed by several speakers, and some
+of their addresses were printed and handed about the theatre; the best,
+or at least the most applauded, was the following by Bernardo Carvalho.
+
+"It is now only necessary to exhort you to UNION and
+TRANQUILLITY!!![84] Expressions truly sublime, and which contain the
+whole philosophy of politics. Without UNION you cannot be strong,
+without strength you cannot command TRANQUILLITY. Portuguese! Citizens!
+You have a Prince who speaks to you with kindness of your own work; who
+invites you to rally with him round the constitution; who recommends to
+you that moral force which embraces justice and is identified with
+reason, and which can alone accomplish the great work we have begun.
+To-day you burst the bonds which threatened you with suffocation. To-day
+you assume the true attitude of free men. But yet all is not done.
+Intrigue and discord, muttering furies, perhaps even now meditate fresh
+plans, and still endeavour to sow division, and to overthrow the
+trophies you have just raised to glory and to national honour. The same
+enthusiasm, ill directed, might produce the greatest crimes. Fellow
+citizens! UNION and TRANQUILLITY. The giddiness of party is unworthy of
+free men. Fulfil your duties. Yield to the gentle exhortation of your
+august Prince;... but in return say to him 'Sire! ENERGY and VIGILANCE.
+Energy to promote good,--Vigilance to prevent evil. The whole world has
+now its eyes fixed on you. The steps you are about to take, may place
+you in the temple of memory, or confound you among the number of weak
+princes, unworthy of the distinctions which adorn them. Perhaps you may
+influence the destinies of the whole world. Perhaps even Europe,
+anxiously and on tip-toe, reposes her hope upon you! PRINCE! ENERGY and
+VIGILANCE. Glory is not incompatible with youth, and the hero of the
+26th February may become the hero of the 9th January. Unite yourself
+with a people which loves you, which offers you fortune, life,
+everything. Prince! how sweet is it to behold the cordial expansion of
+the feeling of free men! but how distressing to witness the withering in
+the bud of hopes so justly founded! Banish, Sire, for ever from Brazil,
+multiform flattery, hypocrisy of double face, discord with her viperous
+tongue. Listen to truth, submit to reason, attend to justice. Be your
+attributes frankness and loyalty. Let the constitution be the pole-star
+to direct you: without it there can be no happiness for you nor for us.
+Seek not to reign over slaves, who kiss the chains of ignominy. Rule
+over free hearts. So shall you be the image of the divinity among
+us;--so will you fulfil our hopes. ENERGY and VIGILANCE, and we will
+follow your precept, UNION and TRANQUILLITY.'"
+
+[Note 84: Referring to a speech of the Prince on determining to stay
+in Brazil.]
+
+A priest, one of the favourites of the people, was called on to speak
+repeatedly. The national hymn[85] was sung again and again, and the
+Prince and Princess, who were observed to be chiefly surrounded by
+Brazilian officers, were again loudly cheered. And everything in the
+city, which was brilliantly illuminated, went off in the utmost harmony.
+
+[Note 85: Composed by the Prince.]
+
+Nothing can be more beautiful of the kind than such an illumination seen
+from the ship. The numerous forts at the entrance to the harbour, on the
+islands, and in the town, have each their walls traced in light, so they
+are like fairy fire-castles; and the scattered lights of the city and
+villages, connect them by a hundred little brilliant chains.
+
+To-day our friends the merchants are under fresh alarm, and have made a
+formal request to the captain to stay. With that petty spirit which
+passes for _diplomatic_, the deputy-consul and merchants, instead of
+saying what they are afraid of, only say, "Sir, we are afraid,
+circumstances make us so, and we hope you will stay till," &c. &c.; as
+much as to say, "You are answerable for evil, if it happens," although
+they are too much afraid of committing themselves to say why. I do not
+trouble myself now about their official reports, which I perceive are
+large sheets of paper, and large seals, without one word that might not
+be published on every church wall, for their milk and water tenor, but
+which I consider as absurd and mischievous, because they tend to excite
+distrust and alarm where no danger is. The truth is now, that there
+might be some cause of fear, if they would openly express it. The
+language of the Portuguese officers is most violent. They talk of
+carrying the Prince by main force to Lisbon, and so making him obey the
+Cortes in spite of the Brazilians; and both parties are so violent, that
+they will probably fight. In that fight there will doubtless be danger
+to foreign property; but why not say so? why not say such is the case?
+However, the wisest of the sons of men in modern times[86], has long ago
+set in the second place those who could not afford to be open and candid
+in matters of business; so _I_ may leave them alone.
+
+[Note 86: Bacon, _Essay on Dissimulation and Simulation_.]
+
+11_th_.--I went ashore last night to the opera, as it was again a gala
+night, and hoped to have witnessed the reception of the Prince and
+Princess. The Visconde�a do Rio Seco kindly invited me to her box, which
+was close to theirs; but, after waiting some time, notice arrived that
+the Prince was so busy writing to Lisbon, that he could not come. The
+double guard was withdrawn, and the play went on. I had, however, the
+pleasure of seeing the theatre illuminated, of hearing their national
+hymn, and of seeing the ladies better dressed than I had yet had
+occasion to do.
+
+There is a great deal of uneasiness to-day. The Portuguese
+commander-in-chief of the troops, General Avilez, has demanded and
+received his discharge. It is said, perhaps untruly, that his
+remonstrance to the Prince against his remaining here has been
+ungentlemanlike and indecent. I hear the troops will not consent to his
+removal, and they are particularly incensed that the choice of a
+successor should fall on General Curado, a Brazilian, who, it is said,
+will be called from St. Paul's to succeed Avilez. He is a veteran, who
+has commanded with distinction in all the campaigns on the southern
+frontier, and his actions are better known among his countrymen than
+those distant battles in Europe, on which the Portuguese officers of
+every rank are apt to pride themselves here, however slight the share
+they had in them, to the annoyance of the Brazilians.
+
+_12th_.--Yesterday the military commission for the government of the
+army here was broke up, and Curada appointed commander-in-chief, and
+minister of war. The Portuguese General Avilez made his appearance at
+the barracks of the European soldiers to take leave of them; they were
+under arms to receive him, and vowed not to part with him, or to obey
+another commander, and were with difficulty reduced to such order as to
+promise tolerable tranquillity for the day at least. It is said, that
+as it had been understood that they had expressed some jealousy, because
+the guard of honour at the opera-house had been for the two last
+evenings composed of Brazilians, the Prince sent to the Portuguese
+barracks for the guard of last night, but that they refused to go;
+saying, that as His Royal Highness was so partial to the Brazilians, he
+had better continue to be guarded by them. I am not sure this is true,
+but from the circumstances of the day it is not improbable.
+
+The opera-house was again brilliantly lighted. The Prince and Princess
+were there, and had been received as well as on the ninth, when, at
+about eleven o'clock, the Prince was called out of his box, and informed
+that bodies of from twenty to thirty of the Portuguese soldiers were
+parading the streets, breaking windows and insulting passengers in their
+way from barrack to barrack, where everything wore the appearance of
+determined mutiny. At the same time, a report of these circumstances
+having reached the house, the spectators began to rise for the purpose
+of going home; when the Prince, having given such orders as were
+necessary, returned to the box, and going with the Princess, then near
+her confinement, to the front, he addressed the people, assured them
+that there was nothing serious, that he had already given orders to send
+the riotous soldiers, who had been quarrelling with the blacks, back to
+their barracks, and entreated them not to leave the theatre and increase
+the tumult, by their presence in the street, but remain till the end of
+the piece, as he meant to do, when he had no doubt all would be quiet.
+The coolness and presence of mind of the Prince, no doubt, preserved the
+city from much confusion and misery. By the time the opera was over the
+streets were sufficiently clear to permit every one to go home in
+safety.
+
+Meantime the Portuguese troops, to the number of seven hundred, had
+marched up to the Castle-hill, commanding the principal streets in the
+town, and had taken with them four pieces of artillery, and threatened
+to sack the town. The field-pieces belonging to the Brazilians, which
+had remained in the town after the 26th of February, had been sent to
+the usual station of the artillery, at the botanical gardens, no longer
+ago than last week, so they entertained no fear of artillery. But they
+were disappointed in their expectation of being joined by that part of
+the Portuguese force which was stationed at San Cristova[)o]. This amounted
+to about 500 men[87], who said the King had left them to attend on the
+person of the Prince, and they had nothing to do with anything else; a
+declaration that was looked on with suspicion by the Brazilians.
+
+[Note 87: I am not sure of the correctness of these numbers, but I
+believe I am nearly right.]
+
+While the Portuguese were taking up their new and threatening position,
+the Brazilians were not idle. Every horse and mule in the town was
+pressed, and expresses despatched to all the militia regiments, and
+other Brazilian troops, as well as to the head-quarters of the
+artillery. The Prince was most active; so that by four o'clock this
+morning (12th), he found himself at the head of a body of four thousand
+men, in the Campo de Santa Anna, not only ready, but eager for action;
+and though deficient in discipline, formidable from their numbers and
+determination.
+
+The Portuguese had by no means expected such promptness and decision;
+they had besides not taken provision to the hill, and they were
+convinced that it would be an easy matter to starve them, by means of
+the immense superiority of numbers in the Campo. They therefore prepared
+to obey an order which the Prince communicated to them early in the day,
+to remove from the city to Praya Grande, on the other side of the
+harbour, only conditioning to carry their arms with them. His Royal
+Highness wished to have put them instantly on board of transports, to be
+conveyed to Lisbon, but the port admiral reported that there was neither
+shipping nor provision ready for the purpose; and therefore they are to
+be quartered at Praya Grande, until such shall be provided.
+
+I went ashore with an officer as early as I could, chiefly for the
+purpose of seeing the troops in the Campo de Santa Anna. In consequence,
+however, of the press of horses and mules, it was sometime before I
+could get a chaise to convey me there, and it was much too hot to walk.
+At length, however, I procured one, and determined to call on the
+Visconde�a of Rio Seco in my way, to offer her refuge in the frigate. We
+found her in a Brazilian dishabille, and looking harassed and anxious.
+She had remained in the theatre as long as the Prince last night, and
+had then hurried home to provide for the safety of her family and her
+jewels: her family she had despatched to her estate in the country; for
+the jewels, she had them all packed in small parcels, intending to
+escape with them herself in disguise to us, in case of a serious attack
+on the city; and she had left a quantity of valuable plate exposed in
+different parts of the house to occupy the soldiers on their first
+entrance. Everything, however, looks better now; and we assured her we
+had seen the first part of one of the Lisbon regiments ready to embark
+as we landed. We promised her, that on her making a signal from her
+house, or sending a message, she should have protection. She appears
+very apprehensive of evil from the liberation of the prisoners by the
+Brazilians during the night, and says, that there are some fears that
+the Portuguese will seize the forts on the other side, and hold them
+till the arrival of the reinforcements daily expected from Lisbon. This
+would, indeed, be disastrous; but I believe the apprehension to be ill
+founded.
+
+Having comforted my good friend as well as I could, we went on to the
+Campo, and found the Brazilians housed for the most part in some
+unfinished buildings. The men, though slight, looked healthy, active,
+and full of spirit; their horses were the best I have seen in the
+country; and, it might be fancy, but they gave me the idea of men
+resolute in their purpose, and determined to guard their rights and
+their homes.
+
+The scene in the Campo presented all manner of varieties. Within the
+enclosure where the artillery was placed, all was gravity and
+business-like attention: the soldiers on the alert, and the officers in
+groups, canvassing the events of the preceding night, and the
+circumstances of the day; and here and there, both within and without
+the circle, an orator was stationed with his group of auditors around
+him, listening to his political discussions, or patriotic harangues. In
+the open part of the Campo were straggling soldiers, or whole companies,
+escaped from the heated crowd of the enclosure: horses, mules, and
+asses, many of all lying down from sheer fatigue. In all directions,
+negroes were coming, laden with capim or maize for the horses, or
+bearing on their heads cool drink and sweetmeats for the men. In one
+corner, a group of soldiers, exhausted with travel and watching, lay
+asleep; in another, a circle of black boys were gambling: in short, all
+ways of beguiling the time while waiting for a great event might be
+seen; from those who silently and patiently expected the hour, in solemn
+dread of what the event might be, to those who, merely longing for
+action, filled up the interval with what might make it pass most
+lightly. I was well pleased with the view I had of the people in the
+Campo, and still better as the day wore away, for I staid sometime, to
+feel assured that all was to pass without bloodshed, beyond the two or
+three persons killed accidentally during the night.
+
+On our return to the ship, we were stopped for some time in the palace
+square, by a great concourse of people assembled to witness the entrance
+of the first Brazilian guard into the palace, while the last Portuguese
+guard marched out, amid the loud huzzas of the people; and on reaching
+the stairs, where we were to embark, we found the last of one regiment,
+and the first of another, about to sail for the Praya Grande, so that
+the city may sleep in security to-night.
+
+The inhabitants generally, but especially the foreign merchants, are
+well pleased to see the Lisbon troops dismissed; for they have long been
+most tyrannically brutal to strangers, to negroes, and not unfrequently
+to Brazilians; and, for many weeks past, their arrogance has been
+disgusting to both prince and people.[88]
+
+[Note 88: The heavy step of the Portuguese infantry has earned for
+them the nickname of _Pedechumbo_, or leaden foot; now applied to all
+partisans of Portugal.]
+
+The appearance of the city is melancholy enough: the shops are shut up,
+guards are parading the streets, and every body looks anxious. The
+shopkeepers are all employed as militia: they are walking about with
+bands and belts of raw hides over their ordinary clothes, but their
+arms and ammunition were all in good order, and excepting these and the
+English, I saw nobody at all out of doors.
+
+_13th_.--Every thing seems quiet to-day. From the ship we see the rest
+of the troops going over to the Praya Grande. Yet there is necessarily a
+great deal of anxiety among all classes of persons. Some persons have
+sent some of their valuables on board the frigate, for safety; and a
+message, I do not know on what authority, arrived to know if the Prince
+and Princess, and family, could be received and protected on board.--The
+answer, of course, is, that though the ship must observe the strictest
+neutrality between the parties, yet that we are ready at once to receive
+and protect the Princess and children, and also, whenever he has reason
+to apprehend personal danger, the Prince himself. My cabin is therefore
+ready. I hope they will not be forced to come afloat. The more they can
+trust to the Brazilians the better for them, and for the cause of that
+independence which is now so inevitable, that the only question is
+whether it shall be obtained with or without bloodshed.
+
+We have determined to have a ball on board, the day after to-morrow,
+that the people may get acquainted with us,--and then if any thing
+occurs to render it advisable to take refuge with us, they will know who
+they are to come amongst.
+
+_14th_.--The shops are open, and business going on as usual to-day. The
+Prince is granting discharges to both officers and men of the Portuguese
+regiments, who wish to remain in Brazil instead of returning to Europe.
+This is stigmatised by the Portuguese as _licensing desertion_, from the
+army of the King and Cortes; whatever they may call it, I am convinced
+that the measure tends to the present tranquillity of the capital. The
+Princess and children are gone to Santa Cruz, a country estate, formerly
+belonging to the Jesuits, now to the crown, fourteen leagues on the road
+towards St. Paul's.[89]
+
+[Note 89: This journey was very disastrous, as it caused the death
+of the infant Prince.]
+
+_15th_.--Our ball went off very well: we had more foreigners than
+English; and as there was excellent music from the opera-orchestra, and
+a great deal of dancing, the young people enjoyed it much. I should have
+done so also, but that Captain Graham was suffering with the gout so
+severely, that I could have wished to put off the dance. I had
+commissioned the Visconde�a do Rio Seco and some other ladies to bring
+their Portuguese friends, which they did, and we had a number of pretty
+and agreeable women, and several gentlemanlike men, in addition to our
+English friends.
+
+A dance on ship-board is always agreeable and picturesque: there is
+something in the very contrast afforded by the furniture of the deck of
+a ship of war to the company and occupation of a ball that is striking.
+
+    "The little warlike world within,
+    The well-reeved guns and netted canopy,"
+
+all dressed with evergreens and flowers, waving over the heads of gay
+girls and their smiling partners, furnish forth combinations in which
+poetry and romance delight, and which one must be stoical indeed to
+contemplate without emotion. I never loved dancing myself, perhaps
+because I never excelled in it; but yet, a ball-room is to me a
+delightful place. There are happy faces, and hearts not the less happy
+for the little anxious palpitations that arise now and then, and
+curiosity, and hope, and all the amiable feelings of youth and nature;
+and if among it a little elderly gaiety mingles, and excites a smile, I,
+for my part, rather reverence the youth of heart which lives through the
+cares and vexations of this life, and can mingle in, without disturbing,
+the hilarity of youth.
+
+_17th_.--Nothing remarkable yesterday or to-day, but the perfect quiet
+of the town. The Prince goes on discharging the soldiers.
+
+_19th_.--This day the new ministers arrived from St. Paul's; the chief
+of whom in station, as in talent, is Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva.
+According to the opinion entertained of him by the people here, I should
+say that Cowper had described him, when he wrote
+
+      Great offices will have
+    Great talents. And God gives to every man
+    The virtue, temper, understanding, taste,
+    That lift him into life, and lets him fall
+    Just in the niche he was ordained to fill.
+    To the deliverer of an injured land
+    He gives a tongue to enlarge upon, a heart
+    To feel, and courage to redress her wrongs.
+
+He had been sent early from Brazil to study at Coimbra, where he lay
+sick at the time of the King's departure from Lisbon; and afterwards,
+during the time of the French, he could not find means to return to his
+native country; but upon the first rising of the people in the districts
+round Oporto and Coimbra, he put himself at the head of the students of
+the university, in their successful resistance to Junot, and afterwards
+served in the campaign against Soult. When he returned to Lisbon, I
+believe, he there entered the regular army; for after bearing arms
+against Massena, I find that at the end of the war he had the rank of
+lieutenant-colonel, with which he returned to Brazil in 1819. But his
+whole time in Europe was not spent in warfare: he had travelled, and had
+become acquainted with several among the most distinguished characters
+in England, France, and Italy, and had contracted a particular esteem
+for Alfieri. The object of his travels was rather to see and learn what
+might be useful to his own country, than the mere pleasure of visiting
+different parts of the world; and I am told, that he has particularly
+attended to those branches of science which may improve the agriculture
+and the mining of Brazil.
+
+One of his brothers, Martin Francisco, is possessed of scarcely less
+talent than himself; and their family, their character, and the esteem
+in which they are held, add weight not only to their own interest, but
+to the government which employs them.
+
+The guards and patroles were doubled along the road, by which they and
+the veteran General Corado arrived, as it was feared the Portuguese, who
+since the 12th have been completely distinct from the Brazilians, might
+have impeded their progress. However, every thing was perfectly
+tranquil.
+
+20_th_.--The Aurora arrived from Pernambuco and Bahia, at both which
+places it appears that every thing is quiet. But as the meeting of the
+camara of Bahia is to take place early next month, for the purpose of
+chusing a new provisional government, the English are apprehensive of
+some disturbance, and therefore we are to return thither to protect our
+friends in case of need.
+
+21_st_.--I went ashore to shop with Glennie. There are a good many
+English shops, such as saddlers, and stores, not unlike what we call in
+England an Italian warehouse, for eatables and drinkables; but the
+English here generally sell their goods wholesale to native or French
+retailers. The latter have a great many shops of mercery, haberdashery,
+and millinery. For tailors, I think, there are more English than French,
+and but few of either. There are bakers' shops of both nations, and
+plenty of English pot-houses, whose Union Jacks, Red Lions, Jolly Tars,
+with their English inscriptions, vie with those of Greenwich or
+Deptford. The goldsmiths all live in one street, called by their name
+_Rua dos Ourives_, and their goods are exposed in hanging frames at each
+side of the shop-door or window, in the fashion of two centuries back.
+The workmanship of their chains, crosses, buttons, and other ornaments,
+is exquisite, and the price of the labour, charged over the weight of
+the metal, moderate.
+
+Most of the streets are lined with English goods: at every door the
+words _London superfine_ meet the eye: printed cottons, broad cloths,
+crockery, but above all, hardware from Birmingham, are to be had little
+dearer than at home, in the Brazilian shops; besides silks, crapes, and
+other articles from China. But any thing bought by retail in an English
+or French shop is, usually speaking, very dear.
+
+I am amused at the apparent apathy of the Brazilian shopkeepers. If they
+are engaged, as now is not unfrequently the case, in talking politics,
+or reading a newspaper, or perhaps only enjoying a cool seat in the back
+of their shop, they will often say they have not the article enquired
+for, rather than rise to fetch it; and if the customer persists and
+points it out in the shop, he is coolly desired to get it for himself,
+and lay down the money. This happened several times during the course
+of our search for some tools for turning to-day along the Rua Direita,
+where every second house is a hardware shop, furnished from Sheffield
+and Birmingham.
+
+_22d_.--The Princess's birth-day was celebrated by firing of cannon, a
+review, and a drawing-room. Capt. Prescott, of the Aurora, and Capt.
+Graham, attended it. It seems the Prince took little or no notice of
+them, or any of the English. I think it probable that the Brazilians are
+jealous of us, on account of our long alliance with Portugal; and
+besides, they may take the converse of the maxim, "those that are not
+against us are for us;" and think because we are not for them, we are
+against them.[90]
+
+[Note 90: I have since learned that some very warm expressions of
+personal regard and sympathy used by an English officer (not, however,
+belonging either to the Aurora or Doris) to a Portuguese, with whom he
+had but a slight acquaintance, on occasion of his embarking for Praya
+Grande, had led the Portuguese to believe that it meant something more,
+and that, in case of need, the English would join with the Portuguese.
+This at least was whispered in the town, and very naturally accounts for
+the jealousy entertained against us.]
+
+_24th_.--We sailed at daylight for Bahia. It was one of the finest
+mornings of this fine climate, and the remarkable land behind the
+Sugar-loaf was seen to its best advantage in the early light. The
+extreme beauty of this country is such, that it is impossible not to
+talk and think of it for ever; not a turn but presents some scene both
+beautiful and new; and if a mountainous and picturesque country have
+really the power of attaching its inhabitants, above all others, the
+_Fluminenses_ ought to be as great patriots as any in the world.
+
+_February 8th, Bahia_.--After a fortnight's sail, the two first days of
+which were calm, followed by a gale of wind, which lasted nearly three
+days, we anchored to-day in the bay of All Saints, which we found
+looking as gaily beautiful as ever. The election of the new provisional
+government took place yesterday, quite peaceably; and of the seven
+members of the junta, only one is a native of Portugal.
+
+I remark, that the language of the writers of gazettes here is much
+bolder than at Rio; and I think that there is here a truly republican
+spirit among a very considerable number of persons: whether it extends
+throughout the province I cannot judge; but I am assured that a desire
+for independence, and a resolution to possess it, is universal.
+
+_10th_.--We went ashore yesterday. The advance of the season has ripened
+the oranges and mangoes since we left Bahia, and has increased the
+number of insects, so that the nights are no longer silent. The hissing,
+chirping, and buzzing of crickets, beetles, and grasshoppers, continue
+from sunset to sunrise; and all day long the trees and flowers are
+surrounded by myriads of brilliant wings. The most destructive insects
+are the ants, and every variety of them that can hurt vegetable life is
+to be found here. Some form nests, like huge hanging cones, among the
+branches of the trees, to which a covered gallery of clay from the
+ground may be traced along the trunk: others surround the trunks and
+larger branches with their nests; many more live under ground. I have
+seen in a single night the most flourishing orange-tree stripped of
+every leaf by this mischievous creature.
+
+_16th_.--We sailed from Bahia, finding every thing, to all appearance,
+quiet[91]; and no apprehension being entertained by the English, a ball
+at the consul's, another at Mrs. N.'s, and a third at Mrs. R.'s, at each
+of which, as many of our young men as could get ashore were present,
+made them very happy, and we had some very pleasant rides into the
+country. I had intended, if possible, visiting a huge mass, said to be
+so similar to the meteoric stones that have fallen in different parts of
+the world as to induce a belief that it is also one of them, although it
+weighs many tons, and I hoped to get a piece of it; but I find it is
+near Nazareth de Farinha, on the other side of the bay, and too far off
+for this present visit to Bahia. The first time we were at Bahia, I
+could not even learn where it was, so incurious are my countrymen here
+about what brings no profit.
+
+[Note 91: Very shortly after we sailed, I believe within a day or
+two, those disturbances broke out at Bahia, which lasted until the 2d of
+July, 1823.]
+
+_24th. Rio de Janeiro_.--Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage here
+from Bahia. The school-room proceeds exceedingly well, both with the
+master and the scholars; and as we are all in tolerable health, we look
+forward with no small pleasure to our voyage to Chile, for which we are
+preparing.
+
+During our absence, the Prince Don Pedro has been very active, and has
+dismissed all the Portuguese troops. On the ships being provided to
+transport them to Europe, they refused to embark, on which His Royal
+Highness caused a heavy frigate to anchor opposite to their quarters,
+and went on board himself the night before the morning appointed by him
+for their sailing. The steam-vessel attended for the purpose of towing
+the transports, in case of necessity; and several gun-vessels were
+stationed so as to command the barracks of the refractory regiments,
+while a body of Brazilian soldiers was stationed in the neighbourhood.
+The Prince was, during the greater part of the night, in his barge,
+going from vessel to vessel, and disposing every thing to make good his
+threat, that if the Portuguese were not all on board by eight o'clock
+the next morning, he would give them such a breakfast of Brazilian balls
+as should make them glad to leave the country. This he had been provoked
+to say, by a message from the officers and men, insolently delivered
+that very night, desiring more time to prepare for their voyage. Seeing
+His Royal Highness in earnest, which they could hardly be brought to
+believe he was, they thought it most prudent to do as they were bid; and
+accordingly embarked, to the no small joy of the Brazilians, who had
+long cordially hated them.
+
+_Friday, March 1st_.--The weather is now excessively hot, the
+thermometer being seldom under 88�, and we have had it on board at 92�
+Fahrenheit. Capt. Graham has had a slight attack of gout, for which
+reason I have not been ashore since our return from Bahia; but as he is
+a little better to-day he has insisted on my accompanying a party of our
+young men in an expedition up the harbour to see a country estate and
+factory.
+
+At one o'clock, our friend, Mr. N. called for us, with a large boat of
+the country, which is better for the purpose than our ship's boats.
+These vessels have a standing awning, and two very large triangular
+sails: they are managed according to their sizes by four, six, eight, or
+more negroes, besides the man at the helm: when rowing, the rowers rise
+at every stroke, and then throw themselves back on their seats. I think
+I have heard that within the memory of persons now in the navy it was
+the fashion to row the admiral's barges so in England. The boatmen are
+here universally negroes; some free, and owners of their boats; others
+slaves, who are obliged to take home a daily fixed sum to their masters,
+who often pass a life of total indolence, being fed in this way by their
+slaves.
+
+The place we were going to is Nossa Senhora da Luz, about twelve miles
+from Rio, up the harbour, near the mouth of the river Guaxindiba, which
+river rises in the hills of Taypu; and though its straight course is
+only five miles, its windings would measure twenty or more: it is
+navigable, and its banks are astonishingly fertile.
+
+The evening was charming, and we sailed past many a smiling island and
+gay wooded promontory, where gardens and country-houses are thickly
+scattered, and whence provisions in innumerable boats and canoes cross
+the bay every morning for the city. Our first view of N.S. da Luz
+presented such a high red bank, half covered with grass and trees,
+overhanging the water in the evening sun, as Cuyp would have chosen for
+a landscape; and just as I was wishing for something to animate it, the
+oxen belonging to the factory came down to drink and cool themselves in
+the bay, and completed the scene. The cattle here are large and
+well-shaped, something like our own Lancashire breed, and mottled in
+colour, though mostly red. On doubling the point of the bank, we came
+upon a small white church, with some venerable trees near it; beyond
+that was the house, with a long veranda, supported by white columns; and
+still farther on, the sugar-house, and the pottery and brick-work. We
+landed close to the house; but as the beach is shallow and muddy, we
+were carried ashore by negroes. Nothing can be finer than the scenery
+here. From the veranda, besides the picturesque and domestic
+fore-ground, we see the bay, dotted with rocky islands; one of these,
+called Itaoca, is remarkable as having, in the opinion of the Indians,
+been the residence of some divine person: it is connected with the
+traditions concerning their benefactor, Zome, who taught them the use of
+the mandioc, and whom the first missionaries here contrived to convert
+into St. Thomas the apostle. It consists of one immense stone cleft
+throughout, and a little earth and sand gathered round it, on which are
+trees and shrubs of the freshest verdure; some of the other islets are
+bare, and some again have houses and villages on them: the whole scene
+is terminated by the Organ Mountains, whose spiry and fantastic summits
+attracting the passing clouds, secure an everlasting variety to the eye.
+
+We found, that owing to our neglect in not sending beforehand to
+announce our visit, neither the master of the house nor his housekeeper
+were at home: however, Mr. N. being an old friend, went into the poultry
+yard, and ordered thence an excellent supper; and while it was
+preparing, we went to look at the pottery, which is only for the
+coarsest red ware. The wheel used here is the clumsiest and rudest I
+ever saw, and the potter is obliged to sit sideways by it. The clay,
+both for the pottery and the bricks, is dug on the spot; it is coarse
+and red: it is tempered by the trampling of mules; but all that we use
+spades and shovels for is done by the bare hands of the negroes: the
+furnaces for baking the bricks and jars are partly scooped out of the
+hill, and faced with brick. Leaving the pottery, we climbed the hill
+that marks the first approach to N.S. da Luz; and on the way up its
+steep and rugged side, our dogs disturbed a flock of sheep, as
+picturesque and as ragged as Paul Potter himself could have desired:
+they had been lying round the root of a huge old acacia, decorated with
+innumerable parasite plants, some of which cling like ivy to the trunk,
+and others climbing to the topmost boughs, fall thence in grey silky
+garlands, or, like the tillandsia, adorn them with hundreds of pink and
+white flowers; among these, many an ant and bee had fixed his nest, and
+every thing was teeming with life and beauty.
+
+The moon was up long before we returned from our ramble, and long before
+our host arrived. Had the Neapolitan ambassador, who told George the
+Third that the moon of his country was worth the sun of England, ever
+been in Brazil, I could almost forgive the hyperbole. The clear mild
+light playing on such scenery, and the cool refreshing breeze of
+evening, after a day of all but intolerable heat, render the night
+indeed the season of pleasure in this climate: nor were the rude songs
+of the negroes, as they loaded the boats to be ready to sail down the
+harbour with the morning's land-breeze, unpleasing.
+
+As we were looking over the bay, a larger boat appeared: it neared the
+shore; and our host, Mr. Lewis P., who superintends the fazenda, landed,
+and kindly received our apology for coming without previous notice. The
+visit had long been talked of; but now our time at Rio was likely to be
+so short, that had we not come to-day, we might not have come at all. He
+led the way to the garden, where we passed the time till supper was
+ready. The midshipmen found more oranges, and better than they had yet
+met with, and did full justice to them. The fruit and vegetables of
+Europe and America, of the temperate and torrid zones, meet here; nor
+are their flowers forgotten: over against the little parterre, an orange
+and a tamarind tree shade a pleasant bench; close to which, in something
+of oriental taste, the white stucco wall of the well is raised and
+crowned with flower-pots, filled with roses and sweet herbs.
+
+_2d._--I rose at daylight, and rode with Mr. N. through the estate,
+while Mr. Dance, my cousin Glennie, and the two boys, went to shoot in
+the marsh by the river side.
+
+Every turn in our ride brought a new and varied landscape into view:
+beneath, the sugar-cane in luxuriant growth; above, the ripening orange
+and the palm; around and scattered through the plain enlivened by the
+windings of the Guazindiba, the lime, the guava, and a thousand odorous
+and splendid shrubs, beautified the path.--But all is new here. The long
+lines of fazenda houses, that now and then take from the solitariness of
+nature, suggest no association with any advance either of old or present
+time, in the arts that civilise or that ennoble man. The rudest
+manufactures, carried on by African slaves, one half of whom are newly
+imported, (that is, are still smarting under the separation from all
+that endears the home, even of a savage,) are all the approaches to
+improvement; and though nature is at least as fine as in India or in
+Italy, the want of some reference to man, as an intellectual and moral
+being, robs it of half its charms. However, I returned well pleased from
+my ride, and found my young sportsmen not less pleased with their
+morning's ramble. Not, indeed, that they had shot snipes, as they
+intended, but they had gotten a huge lizard (_Lacerta Marmorata_), of a
+kind they had not seen before. They had seen the large land-crab
+(_Ruricola_), and they had brought down a boatswain bird, a sort of
+pelican, (_Pelicanus Lencocephalus_), which they proposed to stuff.
+Accordingly after breakfast, as the weather was too hot to walk farther,
+the bird and the lizard were both skinned, the guns were cleaned, and I
+made a sketch of the landscape.
+
+In the evening I took a long walk to a point of view whence the whole
+bay with the city in the distance is distinctly seen, and on the way
+stopped at a cottage, where Mr. P. who is, literally, here "king,
+priest, and prophet," had some enquiry to make, concerning the health of
+the indwellers: these were two negroes, who have grown old in the
+service of the estate, and are no longer useful. I have seen examples of
+such being freed, that is, turned out of doors to starve. Here they
+would be entitled, by the rules of the estate, if not by law, to come
+every day for the same allowance as the working negroes: but they do not
+choose it. They indeed live in a hut, and on the ground of their master;
+but they maintain themselves by rearing a few fowls, and making baskets:
+so dear is the feeling of independence, even in old age, sickness, and
+slavery.
+
+_Sunday, 3d._--I went out before breakfast, with a negro carpenter for
+my guide. This man, with little instruction, has learned his art so as
+to be not only a good carpenter and joiner, but also a very tolerable
+cabinet-maker, and in other respects displays a quickness of
+understanding which gives no countenance to the pretended inferiority of
+negro intellect. I was much pleased with the observations he made on
+many things which I remarked as new, and with the perfect understanding
+he seemed to have of all country works. After breakfast, I attended the
+weekly muster of all the negroes of the fazenda; clean shirts and
+trowsers were given the men, and shifts and skirts to the women, of very
+coarse white cotton. Each, as he or she came in, kissed a hand, and then
+bowed to Mr. P. saying, either "Father, give me blessing," or "The names
+of Jesus and Mary be praised!" and were answered accordingly, either
+"Bless you," or "Be they praised." This is the custom in old
+establishments: it is repeated morning and evening, and seems to
+acknowledge a kind of relationship between master and slave. It must
+diminish the evils of slavery to one, the tyranny of mastership in the
+other, to acknowledge thus a common superior Master on whom they both
+depend.
+
+As each slave passed in review, some questions were asked concerning
+himself, his family, if he had one, or his work; and each received a
+portion of snuff or tobacco, according to his taste. Mr. P. is one of
+the few persons whom I have met conversant among slaves, who appears to
+have made them an object of rational and humane attention. He tells me
+that the creole negroes and mulattoes are far superior in industry to
+the Portuguese and Brazilians; who, from causes not difficult to be
+imagined, are for the most part indolent and ignorant. The negroes and
+mulattoes have strong motives to exertion of every kind, and succeed in
+what they undertake accordingly. They are the best artificers and
+artists. The orchestra of the opera-house is composed of at least
+one-third of mulattoes. All decorative painting, carving, and inlaying
+is done by them; in short, they excel in all ingenious mechanical arts.
+
+In the afternoon I attended Mr. P. to see the negroes receive their
+daily allowance of food. It consisted of farinha, kidney-beans, and
+dried beef, a fixed measure of each to every person. One man asked for
+two portions, on account of the absence of his neighbour, whose wife had
+desired it might be sent to her to make ready for him by the time he
+returned. Some enquiries which Mr. P. made about this person, induced me
+to ask his history. It seems he is a mulatto boatman, the most trusty
+servant on the estate, and rich, because he is industrious enough to
+have earned a good deal of private property, besides doing his duty to
+his master. In his youth, and he is not now old, he had become attached
+to a creole negress, born, like him, on the estate; but he did not marry
+her till he had earned money enough to purchase her, in order that their
+children, if they had any, might be born free. Since that time, he has
+become rich enough to purchase himself, even at the high price which
+such a slave might fetch; but his master will not sell him his freedom,
+his services being too valuable to lose, notwithstanding his promise to
+remain on the estate and work. Unfortunately these people have no
+children; therefore on their death their property, now considerable,
+will revert to the master. Had they children, as the woman is free, they
+might inherit the mother's property; and there is nothing to prevent the
+father's making over all he earns to her. I wish I had the talent of
+novel writing, for the sake of this slave's story; but my writing, like
+my drawing, goes no farther than sketching from nature, and I make
+better artists welcome to use the subject.
+
+The evening was very stormy: deep clouds had covered the Organ
+Mountains; and vivid lightning, sharp rain, and boisterous wind, had
+threatened the fazenda with a night of terror. But it passed away,
+leaving all the grand and gloomy beauty of a departed thunder-storm in a
+mountainous country; when the moon broke through the clouds, and the
+night seemed, from the contrast with the last few hours, even lovelier
+than the last. Then just as the
+
+       "Sable clouds
+    Turned forth their silver lining on the night,
+    And cast a gleam over the tufted grove."
+
+I heard the sounds of music; not such, indeed, as Milton's echo, with
+Henry Lawes's notes, would have made,--of which the night and the scene
+had made me dream; but the voice of the slaves on this their night of
+holiday, beguiling their cares with uncouth airs, played on rude African
+instruments. Taking one of my ship-mates with me, I immediately went to
+the huts of the married slaves, where all merry-makings are held; and
+found parties playing, singing, and dancing to the moonlight. A
+superstitious veneration for that beautiful planet is said to be pretty
+general in savage Africa, as that for the Pleiades was among the
+Indians of Brazil; and probably the slaves, though baptized, dance to
+the moon in memory of their homes. As for the instruments, they are the
+most inartificial things that ever gave out musical sounds; yet they
+have not an unpleasing effect. One is simply composed of a crooked
+stick, a small hollow gourd, and a single string of brass wire. The
+mouth of the gourd must be placed on the naked skin of the side; so that
+the ribs of the player form the sounding-board, and the string is struck
+with a short stick. A second has more the appearance of a guitar: the
+hollow gourd is covered with skin; it has a bridge, and there are two
+strings; it is played with the finger. Another of the same class is
+played with a bow; it has but one string, but is fretted with the
+fingers. All these are called Gourmis. There were, besides, drums made
+of the hollow trunks of trees, four or five feet long, closed at one end
+with wood, and covered with skin at the other. In playing these, the
+drummer lays his instrument on the ground and gets astride on it, when
+he beats time with his hands to his own songs, or the tunes of the
+gourmis. The small marimba has a very sweet tone. On a flat piece of
+sonorous wood a little bridge is fastened; and to this small slips of
+iron, of different lengths, are attached, so as that both ends vibrate
+on the board, one end being broader and more elevated than the other.
+This broad end is played with the thumbs, the instrument being held with
+both hands. All these are tuned in a peculiar manner, and with great
+nicety, especially the marimba[92]; but, as I am no musician, I cannot
+explain their methods.
+
+[Note 92: The simplest of these stringed instruments, and two kinds
+of marimba, have found a place in the Jesuit Bonnanis' _Gabinetto
+Armonica_, printed at Rome, 1722, and dedicated to Holy King David. The
+great marimba consists of a large wooden frame; in which a number of
+hollow canes, about nine inches long, are placed, with the mouth
+upwards; across these open ends are laid pieces of sonorous wood, which
+being struck with another yield a pleasant sound, like the wooden
+armonicas of Malacca. The whole is suspended round the neck, like the
+old man's psaltery in the Dance of Death. Each nation of negroes has its
+own peculiar instrument, which its exiles have introduced here. A king
+of each tribe is annually elected, to whom his people are obedient,
+something in the way of the gipsy monarchy. Before 1806 the election
+took place with great ceremony and feasting, and sometimes fighting, in
+the Campo de Sta. Anna; and the king of the whole was seated during the
+day in the centre of the square under a huge state umbrella. This
+festival is now abolished.]
+
+_4th_.--I was very sorry indeed this morning at sunrise, when I saw the
+boats ready to convey us from N.S. da Luz, where we had enjoyed our
+three days as much as possible; a cheerful party, a kind host, free
+disposal of our time, and no business but such as might beseem the
+individuals of this castle of indolence, "where every man strolled off
+his own glad way."
+
+    "There freedom reigned without the least alloy;
+    Nor gossip's tale, nor ancient maiden's gall,
+    Nor saintly spleen, durst murmur at our joy,
+    And with envenomed tongue our pleasures pall.
+    For why? There was but one great rule for all;
+    To wit, that each should work his own desire."
+
+We returned to the ship by a different way from that by which we went,
+through the archipelago of beautiful islands on the eastern side of the
+harbour; and I had the pleasure to find the Captain really better,
+though still with tender feet.
+
+_6th_.--His Majesty's ship, Slaney, Capt. Stanhope, sailed from Rio.
+
+_7th_.--The Superb arrived from Valparaiso, bringing no news of
+importance. Indeed, if she had, we are scarcely in a state to attend to
+it: we have sat up all night with B., one of our midshipmen, who is
+dangerously ill.
+
+_8th_.--Captain Graham not feeling well enough to leave the ship, I went
+with Captain Prescott of the Aurora, to visit the French Commodore
+Roussin on board the Amazone. I have seldom been better pleased. The
+captains of the other French ships were there, to receive us. All the
+urbanity of Frenchmen, joined with the delightful frankness of the
+profession, assured us we were welcome. The ship itself, every part of
+which we saw, is a model of all that can be done, either in the
+dock-yard at home, or by officers afloat, for comfort, health, and
+cleanliness, and is well as a man of war. Her captain, however, is a
+superior man; and many ships of every and any nation might be visited
+before his equal would be met with. I wish it were possible that we
+should introduce into our ships the oven on the lower deck, which gives
+fresh bread twice a week for the whole ship's company, not only for the
+sake of the bread, but the heating it must air and ventilate the ship.
+
+_9th_.--The Portuguese squadron from Lisbon, with a reinforcement of
+troops, arrived off the harbour. Troops are sent to reinforce the
+garrisons in the forts, at the entrance; and the ships are forbidden to
+enter, but promised victuals and water to carry them to Lisbon. I was on
+shore all day on business, preparatory to our sailing for Valparaiso.
+Captain Graham being too unwell to venture out of the ship himself, he
+therefore undertook to nurse the invalid for me. I returned late. I
+found B. dangerously ill, and Captain Graham very uneasy.
+
+I received many persons on board, and took leave of many.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_10th_.--We sailed at daylight from Rio, in full hope that the cool
+weather we shall find on going round Cape Horn, and the fine climate of
+Chile, will do us all good. I have not been in bed for three nights; my
+invalids are in that state, that night watching is necessary for them.
+
+_13th_.--In addition to our other troubles, the first lieutenant is
+taken dangerously ill: but Captain Graham appears better, though not yet
+able to go on deck.
+
+_16th_.--Yesterday afternoon the mercury in the barometer sunk in a
+very short space of time a whole inch, and we had a gale of wind. The
+cold is sensibly increased. Fahrenheit's thermometer often stood at 92�
+in Rio harbour; it is now 68�, and we have many sick. B. is getting
+better.
+
+_17th_.--Wind and sea abated, and the barometer rising once more; the
+mercury stands at 30 inches and two-tenths. I have lain down at four
+o'clock these two mornings, Glennie having kindly relieved my watching
+at that hour. We have removed the dead-lights from the cabin windows.
+
+_18th_.--Every thing better. The young people again at school. Some
+lunars taken. We are in 36� 55' S. latitude, and the thermometer is at
+68�.; barometer 30-2.
+
+On the 19_th_ and 20_th_ the mercury in the barometer sunk gradually
+from 30 to 29-02, and rose again as before on the 21st. It blew hard;
+the thermometer fell to 58�, in latitude 42� S. There are many
+albatrosses and stormy petrels about the ship.
+
+_22d_.--Latitude 46� 25' S., longitude 52� 40' W. The weather very cold,
+though the thermometer is at 56�, barometer 29-08; a very heavy swell.
+Great numbers of the Cape pigeon about the ship.
+
+_24th_.--Latitude 50� 30'; thermometer 44� morning and evening, 47� at
+noon. Seeing two penguins to-day, we supposed some land must be near,
+but found no bottom with 100 fathoms line. The cold weather seems to
+have a good effect on our invalids. The barometer fell suddenly, and a
+strong S.W. wind succeeded, and we were glad to light a fire in the
+cabin.
+
+I am sorry we have passed so far out of sight of the Falkland Islands,
+Sir John Hawkins's maiden land. The idea of seeing a town left standing
+as it was, by all its inhabitants at once, and of the tame animals
+becoming wild, had something romantic. It seemed like a realisation of
+the Arabian tale of the half-marble prince, and in real interest comes
+near the discovery of the lost Greenland settlements. I do not know any
+thing that gratifies the imagination, more than the situations and
+incidents that by bringing distant periods of time together, places
+them, as it were, at once within our own reach. I remember some years
+ago spending a whole day with no companion but my guide at Pompeii, and
+becoming so intimate with the ancients, their ways, and manners, that I
+felt, when I went home to Naples, and its lazaroni, and its English
+travellers, as I suppose, that one of the seven sleepers to have done,
+who went to purchase bread with money five centuries old. As to the
+marble cities of Moorish Africa, when we consider their exposure to the
+sirocco, and read Dolomieu's Experiments on the Atmosphere, during the
+prevalence of that wind at Malta, we shall find but too probable a
+reason for their existence as reported.
+
+_25th_.--Latitude 51� 58' S., longitude 51� W., thermometer 41�. Strong
+south-westerly gales and heavy sea. Just as our friends in England are
+looking forward to spring, its gay light days and early flowers, we are
+sailing towards frozen regions, where avarice' self has been forced to
+give up half-formed settlements by the severity of the climate. We are
+in the midst of a dark boisterous sea; over us, a dense, grey, cold sky.
+The albatross, stormy petrel, and pintado are our companions; yet there
+is a pleasure in stemming the apparently irresistible waves, and in
+wrestling thus with the elements. I forget what writer it is who
+observes, that the sublime and the ridiculous border on each other; I am
+sure they approach very nearly at sea. If I look abroad, I see the
+grandest and most sublime object in nature,--the ocean raging in its
+might, and man, in all his honour, and dignity, and powers of mind and
+body, wrestling with and commanding it: then I look within, round my
+little home in the cabin, and every roll of the ship causes accidents
+irresistibly ludicrous; and in spite of the inconveniences they bring
+with them, one cannot choose but laugh. Sometimes, in spite of all usual
+precautions, of cushions and clothes, the breakfast-table is suddenly
+stripped of half its load, which is lodged in the lee scuppers, whither
+the coal-scuttle and its contents had adjourned the instant before: then
+succeed the school-room distresses of _capsized_ ink-stands, broken
+slates, torn books, and lost places; not to mention the loss of many a
+painful calculation, and other evils exquisite in their kind, but
+abundantly laughable, especially, as it happened just now, if the
+school-master is induced to measure his length on the deck, when in the
+act of reprimanding the carelessness which subjects the slates and books
+to these untoward chances.
+
+_28th_.--Latitude 55� 26' S., longitude 56� 11' W. Captain Graham and
+the first lieutenant still both very ill. At one o'clock this morning
+the mercury in the barometer sunk to 28-09; at seven it rose again to
+29-01. The thermometer is at 38� of Fahrenheit, and we have had squalls
+of snow and sleet, and a heavy sea. There are flocks of very small birds
+about the ship, and we have seen a great many whales.
+
+_30th_.--Latitude 56� 51' S., longitude 59� W.; the thermometer at 30�
+this morning, and 32� at noon. A violent gale of wind from the
+south-west; the only thing like a hard gale since we left England. I had
+breakfast spread on the cabin deck, as it was not possible to secure any
+thing on a table. Clarke, one of the quartermasters, had two ribs broken
+by a fall on deck; and Sinclair, a very strong man, was taken ill after
+being an hour at the wheel. We have made gloves for the men at the wheel
+of canvass, lined with dreadnought; and for the people at night,
+waistbands of canvass, with dreadnought linings. The snow and hail
+squalls are very severe; ice forms in every fold of the sails. This is
+hard upon the men, so soon after leaving Rio in the hottest part of the
+year.
+
+Yesterday morning, about an hour before sunrise, a bright meteor was
+seen in the south-west. It was first taken for the signal lanterns of a
+large ship; then the officer of the watch thought it was a blue light,
+and we made no doubt of its being Sir T. Hardy in the Creole. It
+remained a long time stationary; then it was lost behind the clouds, and
+reappeared between them about 10� high, when it disappeared.[93]
+
+[Note 93: Frezier mentions seeing such a meteor in latitude 57� 30'
+S., and longitude 69� W., in 1712.]
+
+_April 1st_.--Latitude 57� 46'; the weather much more mild and moderate.
+Our young men have caught a number of birds, principally petrels; the P.
+Pelagica, or Mother Cary's chicken, is the least; the P. Pintado is
+gayest on the water; but the P. Glacialis, or fulmer, is most beautiful
+when brought on board: I cannot enough admire the delicate beauty of the
+snow-white plumage, unwet and unsoiled, amid the salt waves. The poets
+have scandalised both the arctic and antarctic regions as
+
+      "A bleak expanse,
+    Shagg'd o'er with wavy rocks, cheerless and _void
+    Of ev'ry life_;"
+
+yet, on Capt. Parry's approach to the north pole, he found the solitude
+teeming with _life_; and the farther south we have sailed, the more
+_life_ we have found on the waters. Yesterday the sea was covered with
+albatrosses, and four kinds of petrel: the penguin comes near us; shoals
+of porpoises are constantly flitting by, and whales for ever rising to
+the surface and blowing alongside of the ship.
+
+With the thermometer not lower than 30�, we feel the cold excessive.
+Yesterday morning the main rigging was cased in ice; and the ropes were
+so frozen after the sleet in the night, that it was difficult to work
+them. I never see these things but I think of Thomson's description of
+Sir Hugh Willoughby's attempt to discover the northwest passage, when
+
+      "He with his hapless crew,
+    Each full exerted at his several task,
+    Froze into statues; to the cordage glued
+    The sailor, and the pilot to the helm."
+
+I was glad to-day, when the dead-lights were removed, to see the bright,
+blue, but still boisterous sea, spreading with ample waves curled with
+snowy tops, in the sunshine; it is many days since we have seen the sun,
+and the white birds flying and chattering, or wrestling on the water,
+while the ship, like them, sometimes bravely mounts the very top of the
+wave, and sometimes quietly subsides with it. These are the things we
+behold "who go down to the sea in ships, "and occupy our business in the
+great waters." No one can imagine, who has not felt, the exhilaration
+of spirits produced by a dry clear day of sunshine at sea, after a week
+of rain and snow.
+
+_April 2d_.--A few minutes after noon, an iceberg was reported on the
+lee-bow. As I had never seen one, I went on deck for the first time
+since we left Rio to see it.[94] It appeared like a moderately high
+conical hill, and looked very white upon the bleak grey sky; it might be
+about twelve miles from us. The temperature of the water was 36� of
+Fahrenheit's thermometer, that of the air 38�, when the ice was nearest.
+
+[Note 94: We passed another on the 8th, which Glennie calculated to
+be 410 feet high; it was near enough for us to see the waves break on
+it. In conversing on this subject with the officers since,--for at the
+time I was indeed unable to think of it,--I find there is reason to
+think that, instead of an iceberg, we saw land on the 8th. It was seen
+in the latitude and longitude of an island visited by Drake, marked in
+the old charts.]
+
+For some few days the violent motion of the ship, occasioned by the
+heavy sea, has rendered writing and drawing irksome; for, as Lord
+Dorset's song has it,
+
+    "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,
+    Roll up and down our ships, at sea."
+
+Nevertheless we are not idle. As the cabin has always a good fire in it,
+it is the general rendezvous for invalids; and the midshipmen come in
+and out as they please, as it is the school-room. In one corner Glennie
+has his apparatus for skinning and dissecting the birds we take; and we
+have constantly occasion to admire the beautiful contrivances of nature
+in providing for her creatures. These huge sea-birds, that we find so
+far from any land, have on each side large air-vessels adapted for
+floating them in the air, or on the water; they are placed below the
+wings, and the liver, gizzard, and entrails rest on them. In each
+gizzard of those we have yet opened, there have been two small pebbles,
+of unequal size; and the gizzard is very rough within. We have found
+more vegetable than animal food in their stomachs.
+
+_20th April, 1822_.--To-day we made the coast of Chile. I had continued
+to write my Journal regularly; but though nearly two years are past
+since I wrote it, I cannot bring myself to copy it: from the 3d of April
+it became a register of acute suffering; and, on my part, of alternate
+hopes and fears through days and nights of darkness and storms, which
+aggravated the wretchedness of those wretched hours. On the night of the
+ninth of April, I regularly undressed and went to bed for the first time
+since I left Rio de Janeiro. All was then over, and I slept long and
+rested; but I awoke to the consciousness of being alone, and a widow,
+with half the globe between me and my kindred.
+
+Many things very painful occurred. But I had comfort too. I found
+sympathy and brotherly help from some; and I was not insensible to the
+affectionate behaviour of _my boys_, as the midshipmen were called. And
+I had the comfort to feel that no stranger hand had closed his eyes, or
+smoothed his pillow.
+
+Mr. London and Mr. Kift, the surgeon and assistant surgeon, never left
+the bed-side; and, when my strength failed, my cousin Mr. Glennie, and
+Mr. Blatchly, two passed midshipmen, did all that friends could do.
+
+Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant,--though, from the illness of the first
+lieutenant, the whole business of the ship devolved on him,--found time
+to be near his friend's death-bed; and, whether at noon or midnight, was
+never absent where kindness could be shown.
+
+But what could any human kindness do for me? My comfort must come from
+him who in his own time will "wipe off all tears from our faces."
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+Before I begin the Journal of my Second Visit to Brazil, from which I
+was absent a year and three days, it will be necessary to give a short
+account of the principal events which took place during that year, and
+which changed the government of the country.
+
+The Prince Regent had in vain sent the most pressing representations in
+favour of Brazil to the Cortes. No notice whatever was taken of his
+despatches; and the government at Lisbon continued to legislate for
+Brazil as if it were a settlement on the coast of savage Africa. The
+ministers who had served Don John had seen enough of the country, during
+their residence in it, to be persuaded that Brazil, united, was at any
+time competent to throw off all subjection to the mother country; the
+object, therefore, became to divide it. Accordingly a scheme for the
+government of Brazil was framed, by which each captaincy should be ruled
+by a junta, whose acts were to be totally independent on each other, and
+only recognisable by the authorities in Portugal; and the Prince was
+ordered home in a peremptory and indecent manner. I have mentioned in my
+Journal the reception those orders had met with, and the resolution His
+Royal Highness had adopted of staying in Brazil. As soon as this
+resolution became known to the provinces, addresses and deputations
+poured in on all sides from every town and captaincy, excepting the city
+of Bahia and the province of Maranliam, which had always had a
+government independent of the rest of Brazil.
+
+In December, 1821, the King had appointed General Madeira governor of
+Bahia and commander of the troops. He entered on his office in February;
+and shortly afterwards the first actual warfare between the Portuguese
+and Brazilians began in the city of St. Salvador, on the 6th of the
+month, when the Brazilians were defeated with some loss.[95] Meantime,
+the province of St. Paul's had made every exertion to raise and arm
+troops; and early in February 1100 men marched towards Rio, to put
+themselves at the disposal of the Prince. Some recruits for the seamen
+and marine corps were raised, and a naval academy established, the
+object of all which was to prevent the carrying away the Prince by
+force. It was now thought advisable that the Prince should visit the two
+most important provinces, St. Paul's and the Mines; and on the 26th or
+27th of March he left Rio for that purpose, leaving the executive
+government in the hands of the minister Jos� Bonifacio. His Royal
+Highness was received every where with enthusiasm, until he arrived at
+the last stage, on his way to Villa Rica, the capital of the province of
+Minas Geraes; there he received intelligence of a party raised to oppose
+his entrance by the Juiz de Fora, supported by a captain of one of the
+regiments of Ca�adores. He immediately caused some troops to be
+assembled and joined with those which accompanied him, and then remained
+where he was, and sent to the camara of the town, to say he was able to
+enter by force, but had rather come among them as a friend and
+protector. Several messages passed; the conspirators discovered that the
+Prince was, indeed, sufficiently strong to overpower them; and besides,
+they met with no support, as they had hoped, from the magistrates or
+people. His Royal Highness, therefore, entered Villa Rica on the 9th of
+April, and on the magistrates and people attending to compliment him, he
+addressed them thus:--
+
+"Brave Mineros! The shackles of despotism, which began to be loosened on
+the 24th of August in Porto, are now bursting in this province. Be
+free,--be constitutional! Unite with me, and proceed constitutionally. I
+rely entirely on you. Do you depend on me. Let not yourselves be deluded
+by those who seek the ruin of your province, and of the whole nation.
+
+    Viva, The Constitutional King!
+    Viva, Our Religion!
+    Viva, All honest men!
+    Viva, The Mineros!"
+
+[Note 95: On the 25th of May following a solemn mass was performed
+for the souls of those who had fallen on both sides, at the expense of
+the Bahians resident at Rio, in the church of San Francesco de Paulo.
+The cenotaph raised in the church was surrounded by inscriptions, in
+Latin and Portuguese; one of the most striking is, "Eternal glory to
+those who give their blood for their country."
+
+    ("He quha dies for his cuntre
+    Sal herbyrit intil bewyn be," says _Barbour_.)
+
+The day was one of those Brazilian rainy days, when it should seem
+another deluge was coming: but the Prince and Princess were the first at
+the ceremony.]
+
+The next day the Prince held a general court, and remained eleven days
+at Villa Rica. The only punishment inflicted on the conspirators, was
+suspension from their offices; and this royal visit attached this
+province to him, as firmly as those of St. Paul's and Rio.
+
+He returned to Rio de Janeiro on the 25th, where he was received in the
+most flattering manner, and where he became daily more popular; and on
+the 13th of May, King John's birth-day, the senate and people bestowed
+on him the title of Perpetual Defender of Brazil, and thenceforward his
+style was, CONSTITUTIONAL PRINCE REGENT, AND PERPETUAL DEFENDER OF THE
+KINGDOM OF BRAZIL.
+
+The impossibility of continuing united to Portugal had become daily more
+apparent. All the southern provinces were eager to declare their
+independence. Pernambuco and its dependencies had long manifested a
+similar feeling, and the province of Bahia was equally inclined to
+freedom although the city was full of Portuguese troops under Madeira,
+and receiving constant reinforcements and supplies from Lisbon.
+
+The Cortes seemed resolved on bringing matters to extremities; the
+language used in their sessions, with respect to the Prince, was highly
+indecent. Such commanders either by sea or land as obeyed him, unless
+by force, were declared traitors, and he was ordered home anew within
+four months, under pain of submitting to the future disposition of the
+Cortes; and they decreed that the whole means of government should be
+employed to enforce obedience. The Brazilian members did indeed
+remonstrate and protest formally against these proceedings; but they
+were over-ruled; and the spectators in the galleries, on one occasion,
+went so far as to cry, "Down with the Brazilian!"
+
+In the months of June and July, Madeira began to make sallies into the
+country around Bahia, as if it had been possessed by an enemy; and,
+indeed, he quickly found one most formidable. The town of Cachoeira,
+large and populous, and intimately connected with the hardy inhabitants
+of the Certam, soon became the head-quarters of crowds of patriots, who
+assembled there, and resolved to expel the Portuguese from their
+capital.
+
+They began to form regular troops; but though they were abundantly
+supplied with beef and other provisions, they were in want of arms and
+ammunition, and sent to Rio de Janeiro to represent their situation to
+the Prince, and request assistance. They were also in great distress for
+salt to preserve their provisions; and as to accoutrements, raw hides
+supplied the place of almost every thing. An apothecary, in Cachoeira,
+shortly began to boil sea-water in sugar-coppers, to make salt, and soon
+reduced the price of that article, so that the quantity at first sold
+for ten pataccas (eighteen shillings) fell to seven vintems (seven
+pence). The same apothecary, collecting all the salt-petre in the
+neighbourhood, applied himself to making of gunpowder, and a fortunate
+discovery of some hundred barrels smuggled into Itaparica by some
+English, was of essential use to them. But they had no cannon, no lead
+for ball for their muskets and matchlocks; the lead, indeed, and a
+quantity of gun-locks, their friends within the city contrived to
+smuggle to them; and their guns were supplied in the following manner.
+In each engenho, there was an old gun or two for the purpose of
+balancing some part of the machinery; these were at once sent to
+Cachoeira, where, being cleaned and bushed by an ingenious blacksmith,
+they were rendered serviceable; and the patriots ventured to take the
+field against Madeira's parties, even before the arrival of any
+assistance from Rio.
+
+Meantime, news of these transactions arrived at Rio, as well as notice
+of the decrees of the Cortes at Lisbon. The Prince and people no longer
+hesitated. His Royal Highness, together with the senate, issued
+proclamations on the _3d_ of June, calling together a representative and
+legislative assembly, to be composed of members from every province and
+town, to meet in the city of Rio; and on the first of August he
+published that noble manifesto, by which the independence of Brazil was
+openly asserted, the grounds of its claims clearly stated, and the
+people exhorted to let no voice but that of honour be heard among them,
+and to let the shores, from the Amazons to the Plata, resound with no
+cry but that of independence. On the same day, a decree was put forth to
+resist the hostilities of Portugal, containing the following
+articles:--1st, All troops sent by any country whatever, without leave
+obtained from the Prince, shall be accounted enemies: 2d, If they come
+in peace, they shall remain on board their ships, and shall not
+communicate with the shore; but, having received supplies, shall depart:
+3d, That in case of disobedience, they shall be repulsed by force: 4th,
+If they force a landing in any weak point, the inhabitants shall retire
+to the interior, with all their moveables, and the militia shall make
+war as guerillas against the strangers: 5th, That all governors, &c.
+shall fortify their ports, &c.: 6th, Reports to be forthwith made of the
+state of the ports in Brazil, for that end.
+
+This last decree had been anticipated by the Pernambucans, who had
+marched a body of troops to the assistance of the patriots of Cachoeira,
+and a most harassing warfare was commenced against the Portuguese in St.
+Salvador: these last had received a reinforcement of seven hundred men
+on the 8th of August; but they had hardly had time to exult in their
+arrival, when a squadron from Rio Janeiro disembarked at Alagoas 5000
+guns, six field-pieces, 270,000 cartridges, 2000 pikes, 500 carbines,
+500 pistols, 500 cutlasses, and 260 men, chiefly officers, under
+Brigadier-general Lebatu[96], who soon joined the patriots, and fixed
+his head-quarters at Cachoeira, having stretched a line of troops across
+the peninsula on which the town is placed, and thus cut it off from
+provisions on that side; but the sea being still open, supplies were
+abundant, not only from abroad, but from the opposite island of
+Itaparica. That fertile district, however, was soon occupied by the
+Brazilians; and Madeira had only his supplies from seaward, unless he
+could by force dislodge the Brazilians from their quarters on that
+island.
+
+[Note 96: This gentleman was an officer under Napoleon, in the
+Spanish war. For some military irregularity, he was dismissed; but
+pardoned on condition of living in Cayenne, and procuring information
+for the French government. He left that country, however, and settled in
+Brazil; where, with the exception of a short time spent in the service
+of Bolivar, he had lived quietly and respectably till the present
+juncture.]
+
+The cabinet of Rio became sensible that it was necessary to provide a
+naval force, if they wished to preserve the kingdom from the farther
+attacks of Portugal, or to dislodge the enemy from his strong-hold in
+Bahia. Accordingly, the agents of the government in England were
+employed to engage officers and men: some were collected on the spot;
+others, such as Captain David Jewet, from Buenos Ayres and America, were
+instantly employed; and all exertions were made to repair such of the
+ships left behind by King John as would bear the repairs.
+
+At length, on the 12th of October, the birth-day of the Prince, the
+troops being, as usual, assembled in the great square of Santa Anna, and
+a great concourse of people attending, the Prince was suddenly hailed
+Emperor of Brazil, and the kingdom changed in style and title, and all
+dependence on, or connection with Portugal, for ever abjured.
+
+This event seemed to give new spirit to the war of Bahia: as it
+exasperated the Portuguese, so it encouraged the Brazilians, now assured
+of independence. Madeira, resolved, if possible, to gain a communication
+with Nazareth on one of the rivers of the Reconcave, which is most
+fertile, and furnishes abundance of farinha, sent one hundred men of
+the Ca�adores, under Colonel Russel, to attempt to gain possession of
+the Ulha do Medo, which commands the Funil, or passage between the
+mainland and Itaparica leading to Nazareth; but their boats grounded,
+and they were obliged to wait for the tide, while the Brazilians, who
+are excellent marksmen, and were concealed among the bushes ashore,
+picked them off at leisure. Another expedition, equally unfortunate, was
+sent with a large gun-vessel to Cachoeira, and arrived off the public
+square, just as it was filled with people proclaiming the Emperor. The
+guns began to play on the mob; but the tide was low, and the shot,
+instead of reaching the people, only struck the quays, and did little
+damage. The Brazilian soldiers now crowded to the wharfs, and thence
+commenced so brisk a fire on the enemy, that the commander of the vessel
+retreated hastily without killing a man, though he lost many. In this
+action Dona Maria de Jesus distinguished herself; for the spirit of
+patriotism had not confined itself to the men.[97]
+
+[Note 97: Of her, see more in the Journal.]
+
+The most considerable expedition sent by Madeira from Bahia was to the
+Punto de Itaparica, the possession of which was becoming daily more
+important, as the provisions in the town diminished. For this purpose
+1500 men were embarked on board the Promtadao, and two other brigs of
+war; they were to land half on one side and half on the other of the
+little peninsula forming the Punto, on which there is a small fort and
+town, which the troops were to attack while the brigs fired on the fort.
+The passage from Bahia to this point is usually of six or seven hours at
+most, allowing for a contrary wind; but these vessels were two days in
+reaching it, by which time the Brazilians had thrown up heaps of sand;
+behind which they lay concealed, and deliberately fired on the
+Lusitanians as they passed, and committed great slaughter, without the
+loss of a man, though they had several wounded. This action, if it may
+be called so, took place on the 2d of January, 1823, and lasted from
+noon till sunset.
+
+Meantime the land side of the city had been harassed by continual
+attacks, and the troops worn out with constant watching; for the
+Brazilians were continually riding about in the woods, and beating
+marches, and causing their trumpets to sound to charge in the night, and
+by the time the enemy could reach the spot they were fled. On the 18th
+of November, 1822, however, Madeira made a sortie, and was met by the
+Brazilians at Piraja, between two and three leagues from the city, when
+a severe action took place, with some loss on both sides, and both
+claimed the victory; but as the Lusitanians retired to the town, and the
+Brazilians took up new positions close to the city gates, the advantage
+must undoubtedly have been on the side of the latter. Meantime the
+scarcity of fresh provisions was such, that all the foreign merchants
+who had families, and who could by any means remove, did so. All the
+country-houses were abandoned, and the people crowded into the town. The
+heaviest contributions were levied on all natives and foreigners, and
+the misery of a siege was coming upon the city.
+
+Rio de Janeiro presented a very different spectacle. The inhabitants
+were decorating their town with triumphal arches for the coronation of
+their Emperor, who, on the 1st of December, was solemnly crowned in the
+chapel of the palace, which serves as the cathedral; and it is no
+exaggeration to say, that the whole of southern Brazil presented one
+scene of joy.
+
+The ministers, no less than the monarch, were beloved. The finances
+began to assume a flourishing aspect: large subscriptions flowed in from
+all quarters for the equipment of a fleet; and an invitation had been
+sent to Lord Cochrane to command it. The Emperor had accepted the most
+moderate income that ever crowned head was contented withal[98], in
+order to spare his people. He visited his dock-yards and arsenals
+himself; attended business of every kind; encouraged improvements in
+every department, and Brazil had begun to assume a most flourishing
+aspect. Such was the state of things when I arrived for the second time
+in Brazil, along with Lord Cochrane, on the 13th of March, 1823.
+
+[Note 98: Less than twenty thousand pounds sterling a year.]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+_March 13th, 1823. On board the Col. Allen, at anchor in Rio de
+Janeiro_.--One of the most windy and rainy days that I ever remember
+seeing in Brazil; so that the beautiful landscape of the harbour is
+entirely lost to the strangers from Chile, and I cannot get ashore
+either to provide lodgings for myself and my invalid[99], or to assist
+my friends in any way. When the officer of the visiting boat came on
+board, the captain of the ship showed him into the cabin, and left him
+with me. I found he spoke English, and immediately began to enquire of
+him concerning the news of Rio. And first he mentioned the coronation of
+the Emperor, and then the war at Bahia; on which I questioned him very
+closely, on the ground of having formerly visited the place. It appears
+that last night only His Imperial Majesty's ships Una[)o], (now Piranga,)
+Nitherohy, and Liberal, with a fleet of transports, had returned from
+Alagoas, where they had landed reinforcements for General Labatu; whose
+head-quarters are at Cachoeira, and who is investing the city of Bahia
+closely. General Madeira has a strong force of Portuguese soldiers,
+besides 2000 seamen which occasionally do duty ashore, and a
+considerable naval force.[100] But it appears, that the seamen are on
+the point of mutining for want of pay. Having told me so much, the
+officer began to question me in my turn,--Did I come from Chile? Did I
+know Lord Cochrane? was he coming to Rio? for all eyes were turned
+towards him. When he found that His Lordship was actually on board, he
+flew to his cabin door, and entreated to kiss his hands; then snatched
+his hat, and calling to the captain to do as he would, and anchor where
+he pleased without ceremony, jumped over the side to be the first, if
+possible, to convey to the Emperor the joyful intelligence. Nearly the
+same scene was acted over when Perez, the port-captain, came on board;
+and in a few minutes Captain Gar�a[)o] of the Liberal came to pay his
+respects, and shortly afterwards Captain Taylor of the Nitherohy, from
+whom we learned something more of the state of His Imperial Majesty's
+fleet. The Pedro Primeiro, formerly the Martim Freitas, had been left by
+the King in want of thorough repair; this she has had, and came out of
+dock yesterday; she is said to sail well. The Caroline is a fine
+frigate, but not commissioned, for want of men. The Una[)o] is a very fine
+ship, wants copper, and is commanded by Captain Jewitt. The Nitherohy is
+a corvette, well found, and in good repair, but a heavy sailer; and the
+Maria da Gloria, a fine corvette, is commanded by a French officer,
+Captain Beaurepair. The great difficulty the navy here has to dread is
+the want of men.[101] Portuguese sailors are worse than none; few
+Brazilians are sailors at all, and French, English, and Americans are
+very scarce. The Emperor is fond of the navy, and very active in looking
+into every department. He is often in the dock-yards by daylight, and
+the Empress generally accompanies him.
+
+[Note 99: My cousin Mr. Glennie invalided, from the Doris, having
+broken a blood-vessel.]
+
+[Note 100: Don Joam Sesto, 80 guns.--Constitui�am, 56.--Corvette, 10
+de Fevreiro, 29.--Active, 22.--Calypso, 22.--Regenera�a[)o], 22.--A
+store-ship, 28.--Brig Audaz, 18.--Promptida[)o], 16.--Smack Emilia,
+8.--Concei�am, 8.
+
+_Armed Merchant Vessels_.--San Domingo, 20 guns.--Restaura�am, 24.--San
+Gualter, 26.--Bisarra, 18.]
+
+[Note 101: The pay of seamen is but scanty. The advertisement of
+February for seamen to man the Pedro Primeiro is as follows:--To
+able-bodied seamen 8 mil. bounty; 4 mil. 800 rees to ordinary seamen.
+Monthly pay, 8 mil. to able-bodied seamen, 6mil. 500 rees to ordinary, 4
+mil. 800 rees to others, and 3 mil. to landsmen.--This very day, 13th of
+March, the able seamen's monthly pay was raised to 10 mil.; that of
+ordinaries to 8 mil.
+
+Shortly afterwards a farther advance was made, and petty officers
+received extra pay, which they had not hitherto done. The bounty was
+also increased.
+
+The pay in Bellard's foreign regiment, 8 mil. bounty, 80 rees per day,
+40 rees stranger money, (both together 6_d_. sterling,) 24 oz. bread, 1
+lb. meat, and clothing.]
+
+Their Majesties appear by all accounts to be highly popular. Their
+youth, their spirit, the singular situation in which they are placed,
+are all interesting. It is seldom that a hereditary prince, ventures to
+stand forth in the cause of freedom or independence; and a son of the
+house of Braganza, and a daughter of that of Austria, leading the way to
+the independence of this great empire, cannot but excite the love as
+well as the admiration of their fortunate subjects.
+
+The weather cleared up in the afternoon, and I went ashore to see if I
+could find any of my old friends, or hear any news; but all the English
+were gone to their country-houses, and the opera, the proper place for
+gossip, is shut, because it is Lent; so I returned to the brig, and
+found Lord Cochrane ready to go ashore to wait on the Emperor, who had
+come in from San Cristova[)o] to meet him at the palace in town. His
+Lordship and Captain Crosbie, who went with him, did not return till
+late, but then well pleased with their reception.
+
+_March 14th_.--Another day of such heavy rain, that I have no chance of
+landing my invalid. Mr. May came on board, and told me I might have Sir
+T. Hardy's house for a few days, till I can get one for myself. He also
+gives us good accounts of the government, its finances, &c.
+
+An embargo has been laid on all vessels to-day, to prevent the news of
+Lord Cochrane's arrival from reaching Bahia.
+
+_15th_.--I went early ashore to prepare for leaving the brig. I observed
+two of the arches, under which the Emperor had passed on the day of
+coronation, designed in extremely good taste, and well executed. They
+are of course only temporary. Some more solid works have been executed,
+since I last saw Rio; new fountains opened, aqueducts repaired, all the
+forts and other public works visibly improved, and the streets new
+paved. There is besides every where an air of business, I carried
+Glennie ashore in the afternoon, and was foolish enough to feel very
+sorry to leave my fellow-passengers, and still more foolish to be vexed
+at the perfect indifference with which they saw me go: both perhaps
+natural enough. I, am once more without any one to lean to, and alone in
+the world with my melancholy charge; they, have business and pleasure
+before them.
+
+It was a fine evening, and the little voyage in the boat to Botafogo
+seemed to do Glennie good; but we had the mortification to find that
+neither the provisions I had bought in the town had arrived, nor the
+servant one of my friends had promised to procure me. So we were alone
+and supperless,--but, thank God, not helpless. I have learned so much in
+my wanderings as not to be dependent; and so, after a time, I had from
+the huckster's shop in the neighbourhood a tolerable tea to give my
+invalid, and sent him to bed in pretty good spirits, and took time
+afterwards to be pretty miserable myself.
+
+_March 20th_.--These past days I have employed in looking about for a
+house, and have succeeded, in receiving and returning the visits of my
+old acquaintance, and in being very unwell.
+
+I hear there is nothing yet settled about Lord Cochrane's command. The
+world says that he was asked to serve under two Portuguese admirals and
+for Portuguese pay. Of course, these are terms he could never accept. I
+have not seen him, so am not sure about this. I suppose, however, it is
+true; or he would not still be living on board that dirty little brig in
+which we arrived.
+
+_21st_.--Whatever difficulties were in the way of Lord Cochrane's
+command, they are over. I have a note from him announcing that he hoists
+his flag at four o'clock this afternoon, on board the Pedro
+Primeiro.[102]
+
+[Note 102: Much was said among the English as well as Brazilians of
+His Lordship's high terms. I have reason to think (not from his
+information) that his pay and that of the English officers is only equal
+to that of England, rank for rank.]
+
+_22d_.--Captain Bourchier of His Majesty's ship Beaver kindly lent me
+his boat to-day, to convey me with my cousin and my goods to my
+cottage on the Gloria hill, close to Mr. May's, and not very far from
+the house the government has given as a temporary residence to Lord
+Cochrane. It is pleasant to me on many accounts: it is cool, and there
+is a shady walk for the sick. It is almost surrounded by the sea, which
+breaks against the wall; and not being near any road, we shall be
+perfectly quiet here.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+_Friday, 28th_.--This has been a busy week, both to me and to my
+friends, who are hurrying every thing to get to sea as quickly as
+possible; as it is of the utmost consequence to free Bahia of the enemy.
+
+_Saturday, 29th_.--His Majesty's ship Tartar, Captain Brown, arrived
+to-day from England, bringing no good news of any kind. In the first
+place, Lord Cochrane suffers extreme distress on learning that Lady
+Cochrane and her infant daughter are on their way to Chile, so that they
+will have to perform the rough passage round Cape Horn twice before he
+sees them;--and in the next, Captain Brown gives a most formidable
+account of a Portuguese fleet bound for Bahia, which he met on this side
+of the line. I trust he is mistaken in the last, and I try to comfort
+Lord Cochrane as to the first piece of intelligence, by suggestions, of
+the probability, if not certainty, that the ship Lady Cochrane will sail
+in, must touch in this port; however, his natural anxiety is not to be
+overcome.
+
+_Monday, March 31st_.--Yesterday the Pedro Primeiro dropped down the
+harbour, as far as Boa Viage, and to-day I went with Lord Cochrane on
+board of her. We found that the Emperor and Empress had been on board at
+daylight. On some of the Portuguese officers complaining that the
+English sailors had been drunk the day before, the Empress said, "Oh,
+'tis the custom of the North, where brave men come from. The sailors are
+under my protection; I spread my mantle over them." The Pedro Primeiro
+is a fine two-decker, without a poop. She has a most beautiful gun-deck;
+but I could not see her to advantage, as she was still taking in stores,
+and receiving men. Her cabins are beautifully fitted up with handsome
+wood and green morocco cushions, &c.; and I am told the Emperor takes
+great pride in her. Captain Crosbie commands her; and three lieutenants
+who came with us from Chile are appointed to her.
+
+_April 1st_.--I had expected the Admiral to breakfast with me; but, to
+my great disappointment, I saw the ship get under weigh, and sail. I
+afterwards learned that the Emperor and Empress were on board, and
+accompanied him out of the harbour as far as the light-house, so that he
+could not leave them. The morning was dull and grey when the Pedro
+Primeiro, the Maria da Gloria, the Una[)o], and the Liberal got under
+weigh; but just as the little squadron came abreast of Santa Cruz, and
+the fort began to salute, the sun broke from behind a cloud, and a
+bright yellow flood of light descended behind the ships to the sea,
+where they seemed to swim in a sea of glory; and that was the last sight
+I had of my kind friend.
+
+_10th_.--Nothing of any note or variety has taken place during these ten
+days. Glennie is gaining ground: I write and read, and attend to him.
+The Nitherohy sails to-morrow to join Lord Cochrane off Bahia, with
+three mortars on board, two 10, and one 13-inch. I find, with surprise,
+that the cartridges are still made up here in canvass, not flannel; and
+I fear that the ships are not so well found as I wish them: great part
+of the canvass and cordage have been seventeen years in store, and, I
+should fear, partly rotten. But all this is nothing to the evil
+attending the having Portuguese among the crews. 'Tis not natural they
+should fight against their countrymen.
+
+I have had the pleasure of reading Peveril of the Peak within these few
+days. 'Tis a sort of historical portrait, like Kenilworth, where the
+Duke of Buckingham, he who
+
+      "In one revolving moon
+    Was hero, fiddler, statesman, and buffoon,"
+
+is the principal figure: Charles II. and the rest of the court serve for
+the black boy and parrot in costume; while the story of Peveril is
+nothing more than the carved-work frieze of the very pleasant apartment
+he has been placed in.
+
+_14th_.--The Fly sloop of war, and the packet from England, came in and
+brought the news of the war between France and Spain. This news is, of
+course, interesting here, as Portugal is considered to be implicated in
+the disputes in Europe; and then, the part England may take, and how
+that may affect this country, is a subject of anxious speculation. The
+more domestic news is not quite agreeable. The Imperial General Lecor,
+in the south, has suffered some loss in an action with the Portuguese:
+however, it is not considerable enough to give any serious uneasiness.
+The same vessel that brought the news from Lecor, also gives
+intelligence that the head of the Buenos Ayrian government, Rodriguez,
+having taken the field against some Indian tribes, who have lately
+committed great ravages in his territories, an attempt was made by one
+of the ex-chiefs to subvert his government; happily, without success. I
+say happily, because I am convinced that every week and month passed
+without change, is of infinite consequence both to the present and
+future wellbeing of the Spanish colonies. While they had still to
+struggle for their independence, while they had to amend the abuses of
+their old government, frequent changes were unavoidable, but natural;
+but now that they are independent, and that they have constitutions,
+which, if not perfect, contain the principles of freedom and greatness,
+those principles should have time and peace to grow, and to suit
+themselves to the genius of the people.
+
+_15th_.--Glennie has been gaining so much strength lately, that he has
+determined on joining the Commodore at Bahia; and this day he left me,
+to sail in His Majesty's ship Beaver.
+
+After having had him to attend to for six months, and being used to
+constant intercourse with an intelligent inmate, I feel so very lonely,
+that I believe I must leave off some of my sedentary habits, and visit a
+little among my neighbours.
+
+_25th_.--A French brig of war came in to-day from Bahia. We learn that
+the ships seen by the Tartar were only a frigate, with a convoy of
+transports, on board of which was a reinforcement for Madeira of 1500
+men. They will but increase the distress of the garrison, which is
+represented as very great, as they have brought no provisions.
+
+_28th_.--I spent the day with Miss Hayne, and accompanied her in the
+evening to compliment Dona Ana, the wife of Senhor Luis Jose de Carvalho
+e Mello, on her birth-day. The family were at their country-house at
+Botafogo; and a most excellent house it is, very handsomely built and
+richly furnished. The walls are decorated with French papers in
+compartments, with gold mouldings, and every thing corresponds. But the
+best decoration, was this night, the presence of a number of the
+handsomest women I have seen in Brazil, most of them sisters, or
+cousins, or nieces of the lady of the house, whose mother, the Baronesa
+de Campos, may boast of one of the finest families in the world. The
+daughter of the house, Dona Carlota, is distinguished here by talent and
+cultivation beyond her fellows. She speaks and writes French well, and
+has made no small progress in English. She knows the literature of her
+own country, draws correctly, sings with taste, and dances gracefully.
+Several of her cousins and aunts speak French fluently; so that I had
+the pleasure of conversing freely with them, and received a good deal of
+information on subjects that only women attend to. Soon after all the
+company was assembled, the ladies sitting all together in a formal
+circle, the gentlemen walking about generally in other rooms, the
+ceremony of tea-drinking commenced, and was conducted pretty much as in
+England; the servants handing round tea, coffee, and cakes, on broad
+silver salvers. But we all sat and took our refreshments at leisure,
+instead of standing with cups in our hands, and elbowing our way through
+crowds of persons, who all look as if they were bound on some particular
+business, and could scarcely afford time to recognise their passing
+acquaintance. We then adjourned to the music-room, where the
+music-master[103] attended to accompany the ladies, many of whom sang
+extremely well; but when it came to Dona Rosa's turn, I was ready to
+exclaim with Comus--
+
+    "Can any mortal mixture of earth's mould
+    Breathe such divine enchanting ravishment?"
+
+[Note 103: This man is brother to the instructor of Catalani.]
+
+The music ended, and who was not sorry at its conclusion? the dancing
+commenced, and then those who like myself were not dancers sat by to
+gossip. An Englishman who has been in this country many years, seeing me
+full of admiration of the beautiful and gay creatures before me, began
+to give me such a picture of the private morals in Brazil, as was
+beginning to darken their countenances and to dim their eyes, when
+luckily he went a step too far, and offered to wager, (the true English
+way of affirming,) that there were in that room not less than ten
+ladies, each provided with her note to slip into the hand of her
+gallant, and that the married and unmarried were alike; and referred me
+to my friend M----, who has long been here, and knows the people well.
+He looked slowly round the room, and I began to fear,--but he said, "No,
+not here; though I do not deny that such things are done in Rio. But,
+Mrs. G., do not you know, as well as I, that in all great cities, in
+your country and in mine as well as in this, a certain portion of every
+class of society is less moral than the rest? In some countries
+immorality is more refined indeed; and when manners lose their
+grossness, they are stripped apparently of half their vice. But suppose
+the fact, that women, even the unmarried, are less pure here than in
+Europe, remember that with us, besides the mother, there is the nurse of
+the family, or the governess, or even the waiting-maid of every young
+woman, who is supposed to be well brought up, and of good character and
+morals. These are all checks on conduct, and form a guardianship only
+inferior to a mother's. But here the servants are slaves; therefore
+naturally the enemies of their masters, and ready and willing to deceive
+them, by assisting in the corruption of their families." Here then is
+another curse of slavery; and this view of the subject has opened my
+eyes on many points, on which I have hitherto been wondering ignorantly.
+
+There were several very pleasant French naval officers here to-night,
+and a few, very few English. I conversed with some sensible and
+well-bred Brazilians, so that I was scarcely aware of the lateness of
+the hour, when I left my younger friends dancing at midnight.
+
+While at the ball, the tragic story of two lovely girls was told me.
+When mere children, they had accompanied their mother to some gala, and
+on returning at night, just as the mother advanced from the carriage,
+she was shot from the veranda of her own house. All search for the
+murderer was vain: but conjecture points to two possible causes of the
+crime. One, the jealousy of a woman, who it seems had been injured, and
+who hoped to succeed her rival as the wife of the man she loved; but he
+has not married again. Another conjecture is, that she was acquainted
+with some political secrets, and that fear caused her death. However it
+was, the girls have ever since lived with their grandmother, who cannot
+sleep if they are not both in the room with her. The family attachments
+here are quite beautiful; they are as close and as intimate as those of
+clanship in Scotland: but they have their inconveniences, in the
+constant intermarriages between near relations, as uncles with their
+nieces, aunts with their nephews, &c.; so that marriages, instead of
+widening connections, diffusing property, and producing more general
+relations in the country, seems to narrow all these, to hoard wealth,
+and to withdraw all the affections into too close and selfish a circle.
+
+_30th_.--I went early to town, and found that the English packet had
+arrived. She fell in with Lord Cochrane's squadron near Bahia, so that
+His Lordship must be there long ere this time; she brings reports that
+the royalist party are becoming too strong for the Cortes at Lisbon.
+
+I spent the day with Madame do Rio Seco. Her house is really a
+magnificent one; it has its ball-room, and its music-room, its grotto
+and fountains, besides extremely handsome apartments of every kind, both
+for family and public use, with rather more china and French clocks than
+we should think of displaying, but which do not assort ill with the
+silken hangings and gilt mouldings of the rooms.
+
+The dinner was small, as we were only three persons, but excellently
+dressed. Soup of wild-fowl, a variety of small birds, and sweetmeats of
+the country, were rarities to me: the rest of the dinner might have been
+English or French; it was served in plate. I heard a great many
+anecdotes to-day of a great many persons of all degrees, for which M.
+Dutems would have given any price to enrich the _souvenirs_ of the
+_voyageur qui se repose_ withal, but which I will not write, because I
+think it neither honest nor womanly to take the protection of the laws
+and the feelings of a foreign country, and--record the foibles of its
+inhabitants so as to give others the opportunity of laughing at them. We
+know well enough the weak parts of human nature: if they are treated
+tenderly, they may mend. Vice indeed may require the lash, but weakness
+and folly should meet with indulgence. In a society rising like this, I
+am persuaded that men may be flattered into virtue. If a general calls
+his soldiers brave before the battle, it becomes a point of honour to
+prove so. And were it in my power, I had rather persuade the Brazilians
+that they have every virtue under heaven, than make them so familiar
+with the least of their failings, as to lose the shame of it.
+
+_May 1st_.--I have this day seen the Val Longo; it is the slave-market
+of Rio. Almost every house in this very long street is a dep�t for
+slaves. On passing by the doors this evening, I saw in most of them long
+benches placed near the walls, on which rows of young creatures were
+sitting, their heads shaved, their bodies emaciated, and the marks of
+recent itch upon their skins. In some places the poor creatures were
+lying on mats, evidently too sick to sit up. At one house the half-doors
+were shut, and a group of boys and girls, apparently not above fifteen
+years old, and some much under, were leaning over the hatches, and
+gazing into the street with wondering faces. They were evidently quite
+new negroes. As I approached them, it appears that something about me
+attracted their attention; they touched one another, to be sure that all
+saw me, and then chattered in their own African dialect with great
+eagerness. I went and stood near them, and though certainly more
+disposed to weep, I forced myself to smile to them, and look cheerfully,
+and kissed my hand to them, with all which they seemed delighted, and
+jumped about and danced, as if returning my civilities. Poor things! I
+would not, if I could, shorten their moments of glee, by awakening them
+to a sense of the sad things of slavery; but, if I could, I would appeal
+to their masters, to those who buy, and to those who sell, and implore
+them to think of the evils slavery brings, not only to the negroes but
+to themselves, not only to themselves but to their families and their
+posterity.
+
+After all, slaves are the worst and most expensive servants; and one
+proof of it is this, I think. The small patch that each is allowed to
+cultivate for his own use on many estates generally yields at least
+twice as much in proportion as the land of the master, though fewer
+hours of labour are bestowed upon it.[104] I have hitherto endeavoured,
+without success, to procure a correct statement of the number of slaves
+imported into all Brazil. I fear, indeed, it will be hardly possible for
+me to do so, on account of the distance of some of the ports; but I will
+not rest till I procure at least a statement of the number entered at
+the custom-house here during the last two years. The number of ships
+from Africa that I see constantly entering the harbour, and the
+multitudes that throng the slave-houses in this street, convince me that
+the importation must be very great. The ordinary proportion of deaths on
+the passage is, I am told, about one in five.
+
+[Note 104: Since I returned to England, I have seen the account of
+the proceedings of Joshua Steele in Barbadoes. I need not add one word
+on this part of the subject; but I present the reader with the two
+following statements of custom-house entries at Rio for the years 1821
+and 1822.
+
+1821.
+
+   _January_        |    _April_        |  _October_     |
+Muzambique  483     | Angola     430    | Angola    452  |
+Muzambique  337     | Quilumana  280    | Angola    375  |
+Amhuebe     352     | Cabinda    287    | Benguela  510  |
+Cabinda     348     | Cabinda    451    |          ----  |
+Luanda      549     |           ----    |          1337  |
+Benuela     396     |           1448    |          ----  |
+           ----     |           ----    |                |
+           2914     |                   |                |
+                    |      _May_        |    _November_  |
+           ----     |                   |                |
+   _February_       | Angola  342       | Ambuiz  220    |
+Cabinda     193     | Angola  361       | Benguela 390   | ABSTRACT
+Cabinda     342     | Angola  231       | Angola  579    | OF 1821
+Cabinda     514     | Quilumana  225    | Angola  544    | January   2914
+Muzambique  277     | Muzambique  122   | Angola  388    | February  1926
+Muzambique  600     |         ----      | Quilumana 446  | March     3170
+          ----      |         1281      |       ----     | April     1448
+          1926      |         ----      |       2567     | May       1281
+          ----      |      _June_       |       ----     | June       680
+      _March_       | Angola   680      |                | August    2578
+Quilumana   311     |                   |    _December_  | September  685
+Quilumana   385     |      _August_     | Angola   516   | October   1337
+Quilumana   342     | Luanda    514     | Angola   523   | November  2567
+Quilumana   257     | Luanda    460     | Angola   309   | December  2634
+Quilumana   260     | Luanda    734     | Muzambique 394 |          -----
+Quilumana   291     | Luanda    304     | Muzambique 330 |         21,199
+Quilumana   287     | Luanda    227     | Cabinda  562   |         ------
+Angola      345     | Benguela  339     |          ----  |
+Angola      433     |       ----        |          2634  |
+Angola      259     |       2578        |          ----  |
+           ----     |       ----        |                |
+           3170     |                   |                |
+           ----     |     _September_   |                |
+                    | Angola    685     |                |
+
+                         1822
+   _January_     |     _April_      |  _September_    |
+ Cabinda    744  | Quilumana  323   | Angola    572   |
+ Cabinda    417  | Quilumana  203   | Angola    534   |
+ Cabinda    459  | Angola     519   | Cabinda   466   |
+ Cabinda    144  | Angola     418   | Benguela  524   |
+ Muzambique 305  | Cabinda    291   | Benguela  298   |
+ Muzambique 278  | Cabinda    377   |          ----   |
+           ----  |           ----   |          2394   |
+           2347  |           2181   |          ----   |
+           ----  |           ----   |                 |
+
+   _February_    |     _May_        |    _October_    |
+Muzambique  421  | Angola     398   | Luanda    467   |
+Muzambique  419  | Benguela   388   | Benguela  428   |
+Muzambique  399  |           ----   | Cabinda   434   | ABSTRACT OF 1822.
+Muzambique  520  |            786   | Cabinda   337   |
+Angola      406  |           ----   |          ----   | January    2347
+Angola      400  |                  |          1666   | February   4273
+Angola      406  |     _June_       |          ----   | March      4401
+Quilumana   436  | Cabinda    432   |                 | April      2131
+Quilumana   446  | Cabinda    533   |   _November_    | May         786
+Benguela    420  | Angola     302   | Cabinda   417   | June       2418
+           ----  | Angola     761   | Cabinda   499   | July       1118
+           4273  | Benguela   390   | Luanda    561   | September  2394
+           ----  |           ----   | Benguela  425   | October    1666
+                 |          2418    |          ----   | November   1902
+    _March_      |          ----    |          1902   | December   1498
+Cabinda    667   |                  |                 |          ------
+Cabinda    400   |      _July_      |   _December_    |          24,934
+Quilumana  504   | Cabinda    427   | Luanda    514   |          ------
+Quilumana  487   | Angola     691   | Cabinda   534   |
+Quilumana  406   |           ----   | Quilumana 450   |
+Muzambique 452   |           1118   |          ----   |
+Muzambique 455   |           ----   |          1498   |
+Angola     305   |                  |          ----   |
+Angola     354   |                  |                 |
+Angola     371   |                  |                 |
+          ----   |                  |                 |
+          4401   |                  |                 |
+          ----   |                  |                 |
+
+]
+
+_May 3d_.--Early this morning the French naval captain, La Susse, called
+on me to take me in his boat to town, for the purpose of going to Senhor
+Luis Jose's house in the Rua do Ouvidor, to see the Emperor go in state
+to the opening of the Constituent and Legislative Assembly. All the
+great officers of state, all the gentlemen of the household, most of the
+nobility, and several regiments accompanied him. First marched the
+soldiers, then the carriages of the nobility and other persons having
+the entree, nobody driving more than a pair, such being the express
+order of the Emperor, in order that the rich might not mortify the poor;
+then the royal carriages, containing the household, the ladies of
+honour, and the young Princess Dona Maria da Gloria; the Emperor and
+Empress followed in a state-coach with eight mules. The crown was on the
+front seat. The Emperor wore the great cape of state, of yellow
+feathers, over his green robes. The Empress, much wrapped up on account
+of a recent indisposition, was seated by him, and the procession was
+closed by more troops.
+
+The carriages displayed to-day would form a curious collection for a
+museum in London or Paris. Some were the indescribable sort of caleche
+used here; and in the middle of these was a very gay pea-green and
+silver chariot, evidently built in Europe, very light, with silver
+ornaments, silver fellies to the wheels, silver where any kind of metal
+could be used, and beautiful embossed silver plates on the harness of
+the mules. Many other gala carriages seemed as if they had been built in
+the age of Louis XIV. Such things! mounted on horizontal leathern bands,
+and all other kind of savage hangings; besides paint and gilding, and,
+by-the-bye, some very handsome silver and silver gilt harnesses. Then
+there were splendid liveries, and all manner of gaudiness, not without
+some taste.
+
+The houses were hung with all the damask and satin of every colour that
+they could supply; and the balconies stored with ladies, whose bright
+eyes rain influence, dressed in gala dresses, with feathers and diamonds
+in profusion; and as the royal carriages passed, we waved our
+handkerchiefs, and scattered flowers on their heads.
+
+When the procession had passed, I found it was expected that we should
+await its return, which I was well pleased to do. My young friend Dona
+Carlota improves on acquaintance; and as I begin to venture to speak
+Portuguese, I am becoming intimate with the elder part of the family. I
+was taken into the study, and for the first time saw a Brazilian private
+gentleman's library. As he is a judge, of course the greater part is
+law; but there are history and general literature, chiefly French, and
+some English books. I was introduced to several Portuguese authors; and
+Don Carlota, who reads remarkably well, did me the favour to read some
+of Diniz's fine verses to me, and to lend me his works. We then returned
+to our station at the window, and saw the procession return in the order
+in which it came, when our pleasant party dispersed.
+
+Yesterday, the assembly having finished its preliminary sittings, sent a
+deputation, headed by Jose Bonifacio, to His Imperial Majesty, to
+entreat that he would honour the assembly with his presence at their
+first sitting as a legislative body, and he was pleased to name half
+past eleven o'clock to-day for that purpose.[105]
+
+[Note 105: Various ordinances of the 3d and 19th June and the 3d of
+August, 1822, and of the 20th and 22d February, 1823, had been published
+for the assembling or regulating the election of deputies from the
+provinces of Brazil, to form a constituent assembly. Early in April,
+1823, the greater number of those who could be collected in the present
+state of the country had arrived in the capital. On the 14th of that
+month, the Emperor fixed their first meeting for the 17th. Accordingly
+on the 17th of April, 1823, the deputies, in number 52, entered their
+house of assembly at nine o'clock in the morning, and proceeded to elect
+a temporary president and secretary, when the Right Reverend Don Jose
+Caetano da Silva Coutinho, bishop and grand chaplain, was elected
+president, and Manoel Jose de Sousa Fran�a secretary.
+
+The first act was to name two committees; one of five members, to hold a
+scrutiny on the election of the deputies generally; and the other of
+three, to examine those of the five. This necessary business, and some
+consequent discussion, occupied the whole of the first and greater part
+of the second session; towards the end of the latter, the form of the
+oath to be administered to the members, was decided:--
+
+"I swear to fulfil, faithfully and truly, the obligations of deputy to
+the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly of Brazil, convoked in
+order to frame a political constitution for the empire of Brazil, and to
+make indispensable and urgent reforms. Maintaining always the Roman
+Catholic and Apostolic religion, and the integrity and independence of
+the empire; without admitting any other nation whatever to any bond of
+union or federation which might oppose that independence. Maintaining
+also the constitutional empire, and the dynasty of the Lord Don Peter,
+our first Emperor, and his issue."
+
+The third session was occupied in regulating the forms of the assembly.
+The throne to be placed at one end of the hall; on the first step on the
+right-hand side, the President shall have his chair when the Emperor
+presides, otherwise the chair to be in front of the throne, with a small
+table, separate from the table of the members, and on it the Gospel, a
+copy of the constitution, and a list of the members. When the Emperor
+opens the assembly, his great officers may accompany him, and the
+ministers may sit on his right; proper places are appointed for
+ambassadors, and a gallery is open to strangers. Some other forms as to
+the reception of the Emperor, or a regent, or a minister commissioned by
+him, were also settled; and then the 1st of May was fixed on for the
+whole body of the members to go to the chapel royal, and after hearing
+the mass of the Holy Ghost, to take their oaths. The 2d was appointed
+for a deputation to wait on the Emperor, and inform him that they were
+ready to proceed on the 3d, and with his assistance to open the
+important business on which they had met.]
+
+This morning, therefore, the people of Rio de Janeiro had strewed the
+way with evergreens, sweet herbs, and flowers, from the bridge without
+the town by the street of St. Peter's, the Campo de Santa Anna, now
+Pra�a da Acclama�a[)o], the Theatre Square, and the streets Do Ouvidor and
+Direita to the palace; troops lined the whole space; the houses were
+decorated, and the bands of the different regiments relieved each other
+as their Imperial Majesties passed. I observe the Brazilians never say
+_the_ Emperor, but _our_ Emperor, _our_ Empress; and seldom name either,
+without some epithet of affection.
+
+In the House of Assembly, a throne had been prepared for the Emperor,
+and on his right hand a tribune for the Empress, the Princess, and their
+ladies. As soon as it was known that the Imperial party had arrived, a
+deputation from the assembly went to the door of the house to meet them,
+and conducted the Emperor, with his crown[106] on his head, to the
+throne; the Empress, Princess, and ladies, being at the same time placed
+in the tribune.
+
+[Note 106: The crown is of a purple velvet, enriched with diamonds.
+There was some mistake or misunderstanding about the fact of wearing the
+crown at the opening of the assembly. As the crown is only a ceremonial
+badge of dignity, it should have been worn during the ceremony; but
+owing to the mistake alluded to, it was not.]
+
+The Emperor having deposited the crown and sceptre with the proper
+officer, and received the oaths of several of the deputies, spoke as
+follows; and it was remarked, that so far from the speech having the air
+of a thing read from a paper or studied, that it was spoken as freely as
+if it was the spontaneous effusion of the moment, and excited a feeling
+as free in his favour.
+
+"This is the greatest day that Brazil has ever seen; a day on which, for
+the first time, it may show that it is an empire, and a free empire. How
+great is my delight, to behold real representatives from almost every
+one of its provinces, consulting together on its true interests, and on
+these founding a just and liberal constitution to govern them! We ought
+long since to have enjoyed a national representation. But either the
+nation did not in time perceive its real interests, or, perceiving them,
+was unable to declare them, on account of the forces and ascendancy of
+the Portuguese party; which, perceiving clearly to what a degree of
+weakness, littleness, and poverty, Portugal was reduced, and to how low
+a state it had fallen, would never consent (notwithstanding their
+proclamation of liberty, fearing a separation,) that the people of
+Brazil should enjoy a representation equal to what they themselves then
+possessed. They had miscalculated their plans for conquest, and from
+that miscalculation arises our good fortune.
+
+"Brazil, which for upwards of three hundred years had borne the
+degrading name of a colony, and had suffered all the evils arising from
+the destructive system then pursued, exulted with pleasure when my Lord
+Don John VI., King of Portugal and Algarve, my august father, raised it
+to the dignity of a kingdom, by his decree of the 16th of December,
+1815; but Portugal burned with rage, and trembled with fear. The delight
+which the inhabitants of this vast continent displayed on the occasion
+was unbounded; but the politic measure was not followed up, as it ought
+to have been, by another, that is, by the convocation of an assembly to
+organise the new kingdom.
+
+"Brazil, always frank in her mode of proceeding, and mortified at having
+borne the yoke of iron so long, both before and after that measure
+echoed the cry for the constitution of Portugal, immediately on the
+proclamation of liberty in Portugal; expecting that after this proof of
+confidence given to her pseudo brethren, they would assist her to
+deliver herself from the vipers that were consuming her entrails, and
+little thinking she should be deceived.
+
+"The Brazilians, who truly loved their country, never intended, however,
+to subject themselves to a constitution in which all had not a voice,
+and whose views were to convert them at once from free men into vile
+slaves. Nevertheless, the obstacles which, before the 26th April, 1821,
+opposed the liberties of Brazil, and which continued to exist, being
+maintained by the European troops, caused the people, fearing that they
+should never enjoy a representative assembly of their own, even for the
+very love of liberty, to follow the infamous Cortes of Portugal, and
+they even made the sacrifice of submitting to be insulted by the
+demagogue party which predominated in this hemisphere.
+
+"Even this availed not. We were so oppressed by the European forces,
+that I was obliged to send them to the opposite shore of the Rio; to
+blockade them; to force them to embark and pass the bar, in order to
+save the honour of Brazil, and to procure that liberty which we desire
+and ought to enjoy; but in vain shall we labour to procure it, if we
+permit to exist among us a party inimical to our true cause.
+
+"Scarcely were we well free from these enemies, when in a few days
+arrived another expedition, which Lisbon had sent for our protection;
+but I took upon myself to protect this empire, and I refused to receive
+it. Pernambuco did the same. And Bahia, which was the first place to
+unite with Portugal, as a reward for her good faith, and because she
+perceived too late the track she ought to have followed, now suffers
+under a cruel war for those Vandals; and her chief city, occupied only
+by them, is on the point of being rased, for they cannot maintain
+themselves there.
+
+"Such is the freedom Portugal sought to bestow on Brazil: it was to be
+converted into slavery for us; and would have ruined us totally if we
+had continued to execute her commands; which we must have done, but for
+the heroic remonstrances conveyed by petitions, first from the junta of
+government of St. Paul's, then from the camara of this capital, and
+afterwards from all the other juntas of government and camaras,
+imploring me to remain here. It appeared to me that Brazil would be
+ruined, if I did not attend to the petitions; and I did attend to them.
+I know that this was my duty, though at the risk of my life; but as it
+was in defence of this empire, it was ready, as it is now, and ever,
+when it shall be requisite.
+
+"I had scarcely pronounced the words, _As it is for the good of all, and
+the general happiness of the nation, tell the people that I remain_,
+recommending to them at the same time _union_ and _tranquillity_, when I
+began to take measures to put ourselves in a state to meet the attacks
+of our enemies, then concealed, since unmasked; one part among
+ourselves, the rest in the Portuguese democratic Cortes; providing for
+all the departments, especially those of the treasury and foreign
+affairs, by such means as prudence dictated, and which I shall not
+mention here, because they will be laid before you in proper time by the
+different officers of state.
+
+"The public treasury was in the very worst state, as the receipts had
+been much reduced; and, principally, because till within four or five
+months they had been solely those of this province. On this account it
+was not possible to raise money for all that was necessary, as we had
+already too little to pay the public creditors, or those employed in
+effective service, and to maintain my household, which cost one-fourth
+of that of the King, my august father. His disbursements exceeded four
+millions; mine did not amount to one. But although the diminution was so
+considerable, I could not be satisfied when I found that my expenses
+were so disproportioned to the reduced receipts of the treasury; and
+therefore I resolved to live as a private man, receiving only 110,000
+milrees for the whole expenses of my household, excepting the allowance
+of the Empress, my much-beloved and valued wife, which was assigned to
+her by her marriage contract.
+
+"Not satisfied with these small savings in my household with which I
+commenced, I examined into every department, as was my duty, in order to
+regulate its expenditure, and to check its abuses. Yet, still the
+revenue did not suffice; but by changing some individuals not well
+affected to the cause of the empire, but only to that of the infamous
+Portuguese party, and who were continually betraying us, for others who
+loved Brazil with all their hearts,--some from birth and principle,
+others from the intimate conviction that the cause is that of reason,--I
+have caused, and I say it with pride, the bank, which was on the point
+of losing its credit, and threatened bankruptcy every moment,--as on the
+day of the departure of my august father, Don John VI., there only
+remained the sum of two hundred contos in money,--to discount its bills,
+to re-establish its credit so completely, that no one can imagine that
+it can ever fall again into the wretched state to which it had been
+reduced. The public treasury, which, on account of the extraordinary
+expenses which should have been borne in common by all the provinces,
+but which fell solely upon this, was totally exhausted, and without
+credit, has gained such credit, that it is already known in Europe; and
+so much cash, that the greater part of the creditors, and they were not
+few, or for trifling sums, have been so far satisfied, as that their
+houses have not suffered; that the public servants have no arrears due
+any more than the military on actual service; that the other provinces
+that have adhered to the holy cause,--not by force, but from conviction,
+for I love just liberty,--have been furnished for their defence with
+warlike stores, great part of which are newly purchased, besides those
+already in the arsenals; and, moreover, they have been assisted with
+money, because their funds did not cover their necessary expenses.
+
+"In a word, the province now yields from eleven to twelve millions; its
+produce, before the departure of my august father, having been at most
+from six to seven.
+
+"Among the extraordinary expenses are, the freights of the ships on
+board of which the different expeditions sent back to Lisbon were
+embarked; the purchase of several vessels; the repair of others; pay to
+civil and military officers who have arrived here on service, and to
+those expelled from the provinces for their private sufferings in the
+tumults there raised.
+
+"The expenditure has certainly been great: but hitherto, nevertheless,
+there remain untouched, the gratuitous contributions; the sequestrated
+property of the absentees on account of political opinions; the loan of
+400,000 milrees for the purchase of ships of war indispensably necessary
+for the defence of the empire, and which exists entire; and the
+exchequer of the administration of diamonds.
+
+"In every department there was an urgent necessity for reform; but in
+this of finance still more, because it is the chief spring of the state.
+
+"The army had neither arms, men, nor discipline: with regard to arms, it
+is now perfectly ready; the men are increasing daily in proportion to
+the population; and in discipline it will soon be perfect, being already
+in obedience exemplary. I have twice sent assistance to Bahia: first 240
+men, then 735, forming a battalion called the Emperor's Battalion; which
+in eight days was chosen, prepared, and sailed.
+
+"Besides these, a foreign regiment has been raised, and a battalion of
+artillery of freed men, which will shortly be completed.
+
+"In the military arsenal they have wrought diligently to prepare every
+thing necessary for the defence of the different provinces; and all,
+_from Paraiba of the North to Montevideo_, have received the assistance
+they have requested.
+
+"The walls of the fortifications of this city were totally ruined: they
+are now repaired; and important works necessary in the arsenal itself
+have been finished.
+
+"As to military works, the walls of all the fortresses have been
+repaired, and some entirely new-constructed. These are formed in the
+different points fittest to oppose any enemy's force approaching by sea;
+and in the defiles of the hills, to oppose the approach of an enemy
+already landed, (which would not be easy,) entrenchments, forts,
+redoubts, abatis, and batteries. The barracks of the Carioca are built,
+and the other barracks are prepared. That in the Pra�a da Acclama�a[)o] is
+almost finished, and that ordered for the grenadiers will shortly be
+so.
+
+"The fleet consisted only of the frigate Piranga, then called the Union,
+not fitted; the corvette Liberal, only a hull; and of a few other small
+and insignificant vessels. Now we have the ship of the line, Pedro
+Primeiro; the frigates Piranga, Carolina, and Netherohy; the corvettes
+Maria da Gloria and Liberal, ready; a corvette, in Alagoas, which will
+soon be ready, named the Massai�: of the brigs of war, Guarani ready,
+and the Cacique and Caboclo under repair; besides several ships in
+ordinary, and various schooners.
+
+"I expect six frigates of fifty guns, manned and armed, and completely
+formed for action, for the purchase of which I have already given
+orders; and according to the information I have received, they will not
+cost above thirteen contos of rees.
+
+"In the dock-yard, the works are the following:--all the ships now
+actually employed have been repaired; gun-boats, and others of small
+size, which I need not name, have been built; and many others, which,
+altogether, are numerous and important.
+
+"I intend this year, in the same place, where for thirteen years back
+nothing has been done but caulking, rigging, and careening
+vessels,--swallowing immense sums, which might have been more usefully
+employed for the nation,--to lay down the keel of a forty-gun frigate;
+which, if the calculation I have made, the orders I have given, and the
+measures I have taken do not fail, I hope will be finished this year, or
+in the middle of the next, and will be called the _Campista_.
+
+"As to public works, much has been done. The police office in the Pra�a
+da Acclama�a[)o] has been rebuilt: that large square has been drained of
+the marsh water, and has become an agreeable walk, with paved paths on
+all sides, and others across, and we are still continuing to embellish
+it. The greater part of the aqueduct of Carioca and Maracana[)o], have been
+repaired; besides the numerous bridges of wood and stone which have been
+renewed, several new ones have been made, and a great extent of roads
+has been mended.
+
+"Besides what I have mentioned, and much more which I have not touched
+on, the funds for these works, which in April, 1821, owed 60 contos of
+rees, now is not only out of debt, but possesses upwards of 600,000
+crusadoes.
+
+"In different departments we have made the following progress. We have
+greatly increased the national typography; the public gardens have been
+put in order; the museum repaired, and enriched with minerals and a
+gallery of good pictures,--some of which were purchased, some were
+already in the public treasury, and others were my private property,
+which I have ordered to be placed there.
+
+"Every exertion has been made on the Caes da Pra�a de Commercio, so that
+it is nearly finished; the streets of the city have been new-paved; and
+in a very short time this house for the assembly, with all the rest
+adjoining, were properly fitted for their purpose.
+
+"Many works which are of less importance have been undertaken, begun,
+and finished; but I omit them, that I may not render my speech too long.
+
+"I have encouraged the public schools, as far as I could; but this will
+demand some peculiar provision of the legislature. What has been done is
+this:--In order to augment the public library I have bought a large
+collection of choice books; I have augmented the number of schools, and
+increased the salary of some of the masters, besides licensing
+innumerable private schools; and, aware of the benefits of the method of
+mutual instruction, I have opened a Lancasterian school.
+
+"I found the college of San Joaquim, which had been designed by its
+founders for the education of youth, employed as the hospital of the
+European troops. I caused it to be opened anew, for the purposes
+originally intended; and having granted to the _Casa de Misericordia_,
+and the foundling hospital, of which I will speak farther, a lottery for
+the better maintenance of those useful institutions, I assigned a
+certain portion of the said lottery to the college of San Joaquim, that
+it might the better answer the useful end which its worthy founders had
+in view. It is now full of students.
+
+"The first time I visited the foundling hospital, I found (and it seems
+incredible) seven infants with only two wet-nurses; no beds, no
+clothing: I called for the register, and found that in the last thirteen
+years nearly 12,000 children had been received, but scarcely 1000 were
+forthcoming, the Misericordia not knowing in fact what had become of
+them. Then by granting the lottery, a house proper for the establishment
+was built, where there are upwards of thirty beds, almost as many nurses
+as children, and on the whole, much better management. All these things
+of which I have now spoken merit your particular attention.--After this
+province was settled, and important provisions made for the rest, I felt
+it necessary to call together a council of state; and, therefore, by the
+degree of the 16th of February of last year, I convoked one, composed of
+procurators-general, chosen by the people, being desirous that they
+should have some persons near me to represent them, and who might at the
+same time advise me, and demand such things as should be conducive to
+the good of each of the respective provinces. Nor was this the only end
+and motive for which I called such a council together: I wished
+particularly that the Brazilians might know my constitutional feelings.
+How I delighted to govern to the satisfaction of the people, and how
+much my paternal heart desired (though at that time secretly, because
+circumstances did not then permit me to manifest such wishes,) that this
+loyal, grateful, brave, and heroic nation, should be represented in a
+general constituent and legislative assembly; which, thank God, has been
+brought about in consequence of the degree of the 3d of June of the last
+year, at the request of the people conveyed through their camaras, their
+procurators, and my counsellors of state!
+
+"It has been very painful to me that, till now, Brazil should not have
+enjoyed a national representation, and to be forced by circumstances to
+take upon myself to legislate on some points: but my measures cannot
+appear to have arisen from ambition to legislate, arrogating to myself
+the whole power, of which I only could claim a part--for they were taken
+to save Brazil,--because when some of them were adopted the assembly
+had not been convoked, and when others were necessary it had not yet
+met; therefore, as Brazil was totally independent of Portugal, the three
+powers then existed in fact and by right in the person of the supreme
+chief of the nation, and much the more as he was its perpetual defender.
+
+"It is true that some measures appeared extremely strong; but as the
+peril was imminent, and the enemies who surrounded us were innumerable
+(and would to God they were not even now so many), it was necessary they
+should be proportionate.
+
+"I have not spared myself; nor will I ever spare toil, however great, if
+from it the smallest portion of happiness can be derived to the nation.
+
+"When the people of the rich and majestic province of _Minas_ were
+suffering under the iron yoke of their mistaken governors, who disposed
+of it as they pleased, and obliged the pacific and gentle inhabitants to
+disobey me, I marched thither, only attended by my servants: I convicted
+the government and its creatures of the crime they had committed, and of
+the error in which they seemed desirous of persisting; I pardoned them,
+because the crime was more an offence against me, than against the
+nation, as we were then united to Portugal.
+
+"When a party of Portuguese and degenerate Brazilians attached to the
+Cortes of miserable, worn-out Portugal, arose among the brave people of
+the beautiful and delightful province of St. Paul's, I instantly
+repaired thither, and entered the province _fearlessly, because I knew
+the people loved me_. I took the measures that appeared to me to be
+necessary; and there, before any other place, our independence was
+declared, in the ever-memorable plain of Piranga.
+
+"It was at the country seat of the most faithful, and never-enough
+praised Amador Bueno de Rebeira, that I was first proclaimed Emperor.
+
+"My soul itself was grieved that I could not go to Bahia, as I had
+intended, but which I did not do on the remonstrance of my privy
+council, to mingle my blood with that of those warriors who have so
+bravely fought for their country.
+
+"At all hazards, at that of life itself, if necessary, I will maintain
+the title that the people of this rich and vast empire honoured me with
+on the 13th of May, of the past year--PERPETUAL DEFENDER OF BRAZIL. That
+title engaged my heart more, than all the splendour I acquired by their
+spontaneous and unanimous acclamation of me as Emperor of this desirable
+empire.
+
+"Thanks be to Providence, that we now see the nation represented by such
+worthy deputies! Would to God it could have been so earlier! But the
+circumstances preceding the decree of the 3d of June did not permit it;
+and since that time, the great distance, the want of public spirit in
+some, and the inconveniences of long journeys, especially in a country
+so new and extensive as Brazil, have retarded this much-wished and
+necessary meeting, notwithstanding all my repeated recommendations of
+speed.
+
+"At length the great day for this vast empire has arisen, which will be
+the grand epocha of its history. _The assembly is met to constitute the
+nation: what joy--what happiness for us all!_
+
+"As CONSTITUTIONAL EMPEROR, and most especially as PERPETUAL DEFENDER of
+this vast empire, I told the people on the 1st of December, the day when
+I was crowned and anointed, '_That with my sword I would defend the
+country, the nation, and the constitution, if it were worthy of Brazil
+and of me_." I this day, in your presence, most solemnly ratify this
+promise, and I trust you will assist me in fulfilling it, by framing a
+wise, just, and practicable constitution, dictated by reason, not
+caprice; and having solely in view the general happiness, which can
+never be great if the constitution be not founded on solid grounds,
+grounds which the wisdom of ages has shown to be just, in order to give
+true liberty to the people, and sufficient strength to the executive
+power. A constitution in which the limits of the three powers shall be
+well defined, that they may never arrogate rights not their own; but
+shall be so organised and harmonised, that it shall be impossible for
+them, even in the lapse of time, to become inimical to each other, but
+shall every day jointly contribute to the general happiness of the
+state. In short, a constitution which shall oppose insuperable barriers
+to despotism, whether royal, aristocratic, or democratic; defeat
+anarchy; and plant that tree of liberty under whose shadow the honour,
+tranquillity, and independence of this empire, which will become the
+admiration of the Old and New World, must grow.
+
+"All the constitutions which have modelled themselves upon those of 1791
+and 1792, have been shown by experience to be entirely theoretical and
+metaphysical, and therefore impracticable. Witness those of France,
+Spain, and Portugal: they have not, as they ought, produced public
+happiness; but after a licentious freedom, we see that in some countries
+there has already taken place, and in others there is on the point of
+doing so, a despotism of one, after that of many; and, by a necessary
+consequence, the people are reduced to the wretched state of registering
+and suffering all the horrors of anarchy.
+
+"But far from us be such melancholy reflections: they darken the joy and
+exultation of this happy day. You are not ignorant of them; and I am
+sure, that firmness in those true constitutional views, which have been
+sanctioned by experience, will characterise every one of the deputies
+who compose this illustrious assembly. I trust, that the constitution
+which you will frame will merit my Imperial assent; that it will be as
+wise and just as suited to the local situation and to the civilisation
+of the Brazilian people: also that it may be praised among the nations,
+so that even our enemies may imitate the sanctity and wisdom of its
+principles, and at length practise them.
+
+"So illustrious and patriotic an assembly will have in view no object
+but to cause the empire to prosper, and to fill it with happiness: it
+will wish its Emperor to be respected, not only at home but among
+foreign nations; and that its _Perpetual Defender_ should exactly
+fulfil his promise of the first of last December, solemnly ratified
+to-day, in the presence of the nation legally represented."
+
+When the Emperor had done speaking, the bishop of the diocese, acting as
+president of the assembly, made a short answer of thanks, praise, and
+promise; after which, the whole of the members, the spectators in the
+galleries, and the people without doors, cheered His Imperial Majesty
+enthusiastically, and the procession returned to San Cristova[)o] in the
+order in which it came.
+
+The theatre of course concluded the ceremonies of the day; and my
+friend, Madame do Rio Seco, having kindly offered me a seat in her box,
+I went thither, for the first time since my return to Brazil. She was in
+high spirits, because that day the Emperor had conferred on her husband
+the order of the Cruzeiro; and therefore she went really in grand gala
+to the opera. Her diamonds worn that night may be valued at 150,000_l_
+sterling, and many splendid jewels remained behind in the strong box.
+For my part, I had gone to town in my morning dress; therefore I sent to
+a milliner's, and bought such a plain crape head-dress as the customs of
+the place warrant, in deep mourning; and wrapping myself in my shawl,
+accompanied my magnificent friend. The house appeared very splendid,
+being illuminated and dressed, and the ladies one and all in diamonds
+and feathers. Some decorations have been added since last year, and an
+allegorical drop-scene has been painted. The Empress did not come, on
+account of her recent illness; but the Emperor was there, looking pale,
+and a little fatigued. He was received with rapturous applause. The
+members of the assembly were seated one-half on his right, and one-half
+on his left, in boxes handsomely fitted up for them; and as soon as they
+had all taken their places, a poem on the occasion was recited by the
+Prima Donna, in which there were some good points, which called forth
+great applause. I think it is Gresset who, in one of his odes _Au Roi_,
+says,
+
+    "Le cri d'un peuple heureux est la seule �loquence
+    Qui sait parler des rois."
+
+And indeed this night that eloquence was powerful. I cannot conceive a
+situation more full of interest to both prince and people.
+
+There was nothing in the principal piece played to-night, for it was a
+clumsy translation of Lodoiska, without the songs. But the after-piece
+excited much emotion: it was called "The Discovery of Brazil." Cabral
+and his officers were represented as just landed: they had discovered
+the natives of the country; and, according to the custom of the
+Portuguese discoverers, they had set up their white flag, with the red
+holy cross upon it, whence they had first named the land. At the foot of
+this emblem they kneeled in worship, and endeavoured to induce the wild
+Brazilians to join them in their sacred rites. These, on their part,
+tried to persuade Cabral to reverence the heavenly bodies, and
+dissension seemed about to trouble the union of the new friends, when by
+a clumsy enough machine, a little genius came down from above, and
+leaping from its car, displayed the new Imperial standard, inscribed
+_Independencia o Morte_. This was totally unexpected in the house,
+which, for an instant, seemed electrified into silence. I believe I
+clapped my hands first, but the burst of feeling that came from every
+part of the house was long ere it subsided. Now I know nothing so
+overpowering, as that sort of unanimous expression of deep interest,
+from any large body of men. It overset me; and when I ought to have been
+waving my handkerchief decorously from the great chamberlain's box, I
+was hiding my face with it, and weeping heartily. When the house was
+quiet again, I looked at Don Pedro: he had become very pale, and had
+drawn a chair close to his own; on the back of which he leaned, and was
+very grave to the end of the piece, having his hand before his eyes for
+some time; and, indeed, his quick feelings could not have escaped what
+affected even strangers.
+
+At the close of the piece there were loud cries of "Viva la Patria!"
+"Viva o Emperador!" "Viva a Emperatriz!" "Viva[)o] os Deputados!" all
+originating in the body of the house; when Martim Francisco de Andrada
+stepped to the front of one of the boxes of the Deputies, and cried
+"Viva o povo leal e fiel do Rio de Janeiro!" a cry that was extremely
+well seconded, especially by the Emperor, and kindly taken by the
+people; and so this important day ended.
+
+_May 6th._--To-day I rode to San Cristova[)o], through a very beautiful
+country. The palace, which once belonged to a convent, is placed upon a
+rising ground, and is built rather in the Moresco style, and coloured
+yellow with white mouldings. It has a beautiful screen, a gateway of
+Portland stone, and the court is planted with weeping willows; so that a
+group of great beauty is formed in the bosom of a valley, surrounded by
+high and picturesque mountains, the chief of which is the Beco do
+Perroquito.[107] The view from the palace opens to part of the bay, over
+an agreeable plain flanked by fertile hills, one of which is crowned by
+the very handsome barracks that were once a Jesuit establishment. I rode
+round by the back of the palace to the farm, which appears to be in good
+order; and the village of the slaves, with its little church, looks more
+comfortable than I could have believed it possible for a village of
+slaves to do. The Imperial family now live entirely here, and only go to
+town on formal business or occasions of state.
+
+[Note 107: Nearly 2000 feet high.]
+
+_May 12th._--I have been too unwell to do any thing; and only write
+to-day to notice the arrival of the Jupiter frigate, with Lord Amherst
+on his way to India, and the rumour that he has some official character
+at this court.
+
+_16th._--Lord Amherst and suite went to court in such ceremony as
+induces people to believe he really has a diplomatic character here. The
+Alacrity has arrived from Valparaiso, and has brought me some old
+letters from England that have helped my sickness to depress my spirits.
+'Tis after all a sad thing to be alone and sick in a foreign land! The
+Doris also is arrived from Bahia. She has had no direct communication
+with Lord Cochrane's little squadron; but it seems, that with his six
+ships, he keeps the enemy's fleet of fifteen sail in check. The town of
+Bahia is said to be in a dreadful state for want of provisions. The
+slaves are daily dying in the streets. Some houses, after appearing shut
+up for some days, have been opened by the police officers, who have
+found the masters escaped, and the slaves dead.--Twice a day the gates
+have been opened to allow the women and children to leave the town. Some
+of the officers of the Doris had the curiosity to attend on one of these
+occasions, and saw 500 persons, laden with as much furniture and
+clothes, as in their weak hungry state they could carry, leave the city.
+The little fresh provision that finds its way into the town is
+exorbitantly dear. General Madeira has proclaimed martial-law in the
+place; he has seized some corn and flour out of a neutral ship, and has
+raised forced loans from all classes, both native and foreign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The ship has brought two or three newspapers from Bahia. As might be
+expected, they breathe the most violent, and inveterate spirit against
+the Imperial government, and every body employed by it; calling the
+Emperor a Turkish despot, a sultan, &c., and Jos� Bonifacio a tyrannic
+vizier. Lord Cochrane, of course, does not escape; and to all old
+calumnies against him, they now add that he is a coward, for which
+agreeable compliments they are likely to pay dearly I should think. The
+Supplement to the Idade d'Ouro of the 25th of April gives lists of the
+two squadrons, drawn up for the purpose of inspiring confidence in the
+Portuguese, under-rating the force of Lord Cochrane's ships, and
+representing them as so ill manned,--although, according to them, the
+most oppressive measures were adopted to man them,--as not to be able to
+face the Portuguese. However, they have thought fit to call in all their
+vessels from the Funil and other stations where they had their small
+ships placed, in order to reinforce their fleet.[108] They have
+published a circular letter, calling on all officers and crews to exert
+themselves, promising them the destruction of the Brazilian fleet. And,
+on the same day, the 24th of April, the Admiral Joa[)o] Felix Pereira de
+Campos, under pretence of indisposition, turns over the command to
+another officer.
+
+[Note 108: _Brazilian Ships_.
+
+Line-of-battle ship D. Pedro I.  64 guns, really,     78 guns
+
+Frigate Uni[)a]o                    44        do.        50
+
+Frigate Carolina                 36        do.        44
+
+Frigate Successo[*]              36        do.        38
+
+Corvette Maria da Gloria         32        do.        32
+
+Corvette Liberal                 22        do.        22
+
+Schooner Real                    16        do.        16
+
+                               ----     Nightingale   20
+                     Total     250 guns.            ----
+                               ----                  300
+                                                    ----
+
+There is besides one fire-ship and one gun-boat.
+Note: *(Now _Nitherohy_.)
+
+
+_Ships of the Portuguese Squadron_.
+
+                               Guns.
+
+Line-of-battle ship D. Jo[)a]o 6   74 {Commandante Capit[)a]o de Fragata
+                                   {Joaquin Jos� da Cunha
+
+Frigate Constitui�[)a]o            50 {Capit[)a]o de Fragata Joaquim Maria
+                                   {Bruno de Moraes.
+
+Dita Perola                     44 Capit[)a]o de Fragata Jos� Joaquim
+                                   d'Amorim.
+
+Corvette Princeza Real          28 Capit[)a]o Tenente Francisco Borja
+                                   Pereira de S�.
+
+Dita Calypso                    22 Capit[)a]o Tenente Joaquim Antonio
+                                   de Castro.
+
+Dita Regenera�[)a]o                26 Capit[)a]o de Fragata Jo[)a]o Ignacio
+                                   da Silveira e Motta.
+
+Dita Dez de Fevereiro           26 Capit[)a]o de Fragata Miguel Gil de
+                                   Noronha.
+
+Dita Activa                     22 Capit[)a]o Lieut. Isidoro Francisco
+                                   Guimar[)a]es.
+
+Brig Audaz                      20 Capit[)a]o Tenente Jo[)a]o da Costa
+                                   Carvalho.
+
+Corvette S. Gaulter             26 1� Lieut. Graduado Manoel de
+                                   Jesus.
+
+Corvette Principe do Brazil     26 Lieut. Antonio Feliciano
+                                   Rodrigues.
+
+Dita Restaura�[)a]o                26 1� Tenente Graduado Flores.
+
+Sumaca Concei�[)a]o                 8 2� Tenente Carvalho.
+                              ----
+                     Total     398 guns.
+                              ----
+
+]
+
+These measures were adopted, in consequence of the news of Lord
+Cochrane's arrival in Brazil having been conveyed to General Madeira by
+His Britannic Majesty's ship Tartar, the only vessel that sailed from
+Rio during the time of the embargo. We are becoming very anxious indeed
+for news from His Lordship: many rumours are afloat; but as there has
+been no direct communication from the squadron, they only increase the
+general anxiety.
+
+_May 17th_.--Soon after I arrived here, in March, or rather as soon as
+my patient Glennie left me, I felt that, as a stranger here, and
+situated as I am, I was peculiarly unprotected, and therefore I spoke to
+the minister Jos� Bonifacio, telling him my feelings; and saying, that
+from the amiable character of the Empress, I should wish to be allowed
+to wait on her, and to consider her as protecting me while I remain in
+the empire. She accordingly promised to fix a day for me to see her; but
+a severe indisposition has hitherto confined her to her room. Now, Lady
+Amherst having requested to see Her Imperial Majesty, the day after
+to-morrow is fixed on for the purpose; and I have an intimation that I
+shall be received on the same day, as the Empress wishes not to receive
+any other foreigner before me. This is polite, or rather it is more; it
+is really kind.
+
+_19th_.--Though I was suffering exceedingly this morning, I resolved
+nevertheless to attend the Empress at noon, at San Cristova[)o]. I was
+obliged to take a quantity of opium, to enable me to do so. However, I
+arrived at the appointed time; and, as I had been desired to do, asked
+for the _camarista m�r_, Jose Bonifacio's sister, and was shown into the
+presence-chamber, where I found that lady and Lady Amherst, Miss
+Amherst, and Mrs. Chamberlain. The Empress entered shortly after, in a
+handsome morning dress of purple satin, with white ornaments, and
+looking extremely well. Mrs. Chamberlain presented Lady and Miss
+Amherst; and Her Imperial Majesty spoke for some minutes with Her
+Ladyship. After which she motioned to me to go to her, which I did. She
+spoke to me most kindly; and said, in a very flattering way, that she
+had long known me by name, and several other things that persons in her
+rank can make so agreeable by voice and manner; and I left her with the
+most agreeable impressions. She is extremely like several persons whom I
+have seen of the Austrian Imperial family, and has a remarkably sweet
+expression.
+
+The corridor through which I passed from the palace steps, and the
+presence-room, are both plain and handsome. As it might be called a
+private audience, there were neither guards, officers, nor attendants,
+excepting the camarista m�r.
+
+The Emperor is at present at his country-house of Santa Cruz; so that
+San Cristova[)o] appeared like a private gentleman's seat, it was so still.
+
+_Saturday, June 7th_.--Since the day I was at San Cristova[)o], I have been
+confined to my room, and totally unable to exert myself, either mind or
+body, from severe indisposition. The Creole is come in from Bahia, to
+get provisions, preparatory to going home. The Commodore has offered me
+a passage in her, and has written to that purpose; but I am in no state
+to embark for a long voyage. The accounts from Bahia are sadder than
+ever: as to the Bahians, though favourable to the Imperial cause the
+misery, of the poor inhabitants is great indeed.
+
+_12th._--We have been for three days kept in a state of agitation, by
+reports that Bahia has fallen, and various rumours attending those
+reports: they all turn out to have arisen from a _russe de guerre_ of
+Madeira, who contrived to despatch a small vessel to a port on the coast
+for flour, pretending that it was for Lord Cochrane, and spreading that
+report to cover its real purpose.
+
+_23d._--A brig, prize to the squadron, arrived, and also the Sesostris,
+a merchant ship bound to Valparaiso, on board of which were Lady
+Cochrane and her family going to Chile. Thank God, by putting in here,
+she has learned where Lord Cochrane is, and is thus spared the tedious
+voyage, and her excellent husband much anxiety on her account.
+
+_14th._--At length we have true news both from and of Lord Cochrane. I
+wrote to Lady Cochrane, excusing myself on account of illness from going
+to her, and she kindly called on me as she landed; and a few minutes
+afterwards I received letters from the Admiral, and from some others in
+the squadron.
+
+As might have been expected, from the haste in which the squadron was
+equipped, the ships had to encounter some difficulties at first. Some of
+the sails and cordage, which had been seventeen years in store, were
+found almost unserviceable; the guns of some of the ships were without
+locks, as the Portuguese had not adopted them: the cartridges were
+mostly made up in canvass: but the real evil was the number of
+Portuguese, both men and officers, among the crews, which kept them in a
+continual state of discontent, if not mutiny.
+
+Lord Cochrane had chosen as head-quarters for the squadron, the harbour
+behind the Moro of San Paulo, about thirty miles south of Bahia, and
+commanding the channel behind Itaparica; a country well watered and
+wooded, and in the neighbourhood of all supplies of fresh necessaries.
+There is good and sheltered anchorage in from seven to twenty fathoms
+water, and on the whole it was well adapted for its purpose. As soon as
+it was known that His Lordship was off Bahia, the Portuguese squadron
+came out, and spread itself along the shore north of the bay. Lord
+Cochrane, who had waited in vain at the place of rendezvous at sea for
+the two fire-ships, which he expected from Rio, had fitted one of his
+small vessels, the schooner Real, as a fire-ship, and had intended to
+run into Bahia on the 4th of May; when he fell in with the Portuguese
+fleet, in number thirteen[109], he having with him five ships, a brig,
+and the fire vessel. He instantly ran through their line, cutting off
+the four sternmost ships; and had the men done their duty, nothing could
+have saved the ship they were first alongside of: but they fired too
+soon; and though the fire did great execution, wounding and killing
+many, both on board that ship and the Joam VI., which was immediately to
+the windward of the Pedro, yet the Admiral was disappointed. The slow
+sailing of the Piranga and Netherohy kept them farther behind the Pedro
+than their brave commanders wished; the others were forced to keep
+aloof, it is said, by the conviction that their crews could not be
+trusted against the Portuguese. As to the crew of the Admiral's ship,
+two of the Portuguese marines went into the magazine passage, and with
+their drawn swords impeded the handing up the powder. The squadrons
+separated after this. Lord Cochrane determined to attack the Portuguese
+again next day. Captain Crosbie, Lieutenant Shepherd, and eleven others
+were wounded; but no other damage was sustained by the Imperial
+squadron, while that of the Europeans had suffered much both in crews
+and rigging.
+
+[Note 109: One ship of the line, five frigates, five corvettes, a
+brig, and a schooner.]
+
+On the morning of the 5th, Lord Cochrane looked in vain for the enemy.
+He had apparently been satisfied with the skirmish of the 4th, and had
+taken refuge in the harbour; so that His Lordship returned to the Moro
+de San Paulo, with only the satisfaction of having driven the enemy from
+the open sea.
+
+Meantime the Brazilian Imperial force that was posted behind the city,
+taking advantage of the absence of the fleet, and consequently of the
+two thousand seamen who served the artillery ashore, advanced from the
+sitio of Brotas, where their centre was quartered, towards the town.
+Madeira marched out to meet them, and an action took place entirely in
+favour of the Imperialists; and it is said that the King's fleet was
+recalled in consequence of this disaster.
+
+Lord Cochrane had no sooner returned to San Paulo than he made such
+provisions with regard to his squadron, as he judged most prudent for
+the public service. The vessel that has arrived here has brought down
+some of the ill-affected Portuguese. All, I believe, from the report of
+the officer who arrived in the prize, have been dismissed from the Pedro
+Primero.
+
+Lord Cochrane has taken the officers and English seamen of the Piranga
+and Nitherohy on board the Pedro, so that now he has one ship he may
+depend on: he has exchanged the eighteen-pound guns of the main-deck,
+for the twenty-four pounders of the Piranga, and has placed guns along
+his gang-ways; and we trust the next news we have from him, we shall
+learn something favourable to the cause of independence.
+
+As far as the government here could supply every thing to the squadron
+to insure its success, it was done in the most liberal manner; and the
+failures, where they occurred, were owing to the peculiar circumstances
+of the times and country, which admitted of no controul. That some
+things should have been imperfect was to be expected: that so much
+should have been done, and well done, excites admiration. But the
+Emperor appreciates the brave man who commands his fleet; and while that
+is the case, a difficulty as soon as felt will be obviated.
+
+_19th_.--My health grows worse and worse. The Creole sailed to-day. I
+have amused myself for two days with some English newspapers. If any
+thing can rouse me to health it surely ought to be news from England.
+
+Lord Althorp has, I see, made a spirited but ineffectual effort for the
+repeal of the foreign enlistment bill; a most interesting subject in
+this country: and I see with pleasure a virtual acknowledgment from the
+English ministers of the independence of Spanish America.
+
+_22d_.--This is the eve of St. John's, whereon the maidens of Brazil
+practise some of the same rites as those of Scotland do at Hallowe'en,
+to ascertain the fate of their loves. They burn nuts together; they put
+their hands, blindfold, on a table, with the letters of the alphabet;
+and practise many a simple conjuration. I think I recollect long ago, to
+have seen the maid-servants of a house in Berkshire place an herb, I
+think a kind of stone-crop, behind the door, calling it Midsummer men,
+that was to chain the favoured youth as he entered. For me I only wish
+for the _nucca_ drop of the Arab to fall this night, so I might catch
+it, and be relieved from my weary sickness.
+
+_June 26th_.--My friend, Dr. Dickson, who has attended me all this time
+with unvarying kindness, having advised change of air for me, he and Mr.
+May have pitched on a small house on Botafogo beach, having an upper
+story, which is considered as an advantage here, the ground-floor houses
+being often a little damp; and to-day Captain Willis of the Brazen
+brought me in his boat to my new dwelling. My good neighbours, Colonel
+and Mrs. Cunningham, try by their hospitality to prevent my feeling so
+much the loss of my friends Mr. and Mrs. May, who were every thing kind
+to me while at the Gloria.
+
+Botafogo bay is certainly one of the most beautiful scenes in the world;
+but, till of late years, its shores were little inhabited by the higher
+classes of society. At the farthest end there is a gorge between the
+Corcovado mountain and the rocks belonging to what may be called the
+Sugar-loaf group, which leads to the Lagoa of Rodrigo Freites, through
+which gorge a small rivulet of fine fresh water runs to the sea. Just at
+its mouth, there has long been a village inhabited by gipsies, who have
+found their way hither, and preserve much of their peculiarity of
+appearance and character in this their trans-atlantic home. They conform
+to the religion of the country in all outward things, and belong to the
+parish of which the curate of Nossa Senhora da Monte is pastor; but
+their conformity does not appear to have influenced their moral habits.
+They employ their slaves in fishing, and part of their families is
+generally resident at their settlements; but the men rove about the
+country, and are the great horse-jockies of this part of Brazil. Some of
+them engage in trade, and many are very rich, but still they are reputed
+thieves and cheats; and to call a man _Zingara_ (gipsy) is as much as to
+call him knave. They retain their peculiar dialect; but I have not been
+able, personally, to get sufficiently acquainted with them to form any
+judgment of the degree in which their change of country and climate may
+have affected their original habits.
+
+His Majesty's ship Beaver arrived, two days since from Bahia. It seems
+that Madeira, unable to hold the place any longer, is resolved to leave
+it. He is pressed to the utmost by Lord Cochrane's squadron, which cuts
+off his provisions, and by continual alarms kept up on the coast, by His
+Lordship's own appearance from sea, and by the preparations he is making
+in the Reconcave for an attack with fire-ships and gun-boats on the
+town. It is expected, therefore, that Madeira will abandon the place as
+soon as he can get shipping together to embark the troops. It is
+asserted even that he has fixed the day, that of San Pedro, for
+evacuating the place. The following proclamation is certainly
+preparatory to his doing so; but as the time must depend on
+contingencies, it cannot be so certain:--
+
+"Inhabitants of Bahia!
+
+"The crisis in which we find ourselves is perilous, because the means of
+subsistence fail us, and we cannot secure the entrance of any
+provisions. My duty as a soldier, and as governor, is to make every
+sacrifice in order to save the city; but it is equally my duty to
+prevent in an extreme case the sacrifice of the troops that I command,
+of the squadron, and of yourselves. I shall employ every means to fulfil
+both these duties. Do not suffer yourselves to be persuaded that
+measures of foresight are always followed by disasters. You have already
+seen me take such once before: they alarmed you; but you were afterwards
+convinced that they portended nothing extraordinary. Even in the midst
+of formidable armies, measures of precaution are daily used; because
+victory is not constant, and reverses should be provided against. You
+may assure yourselves, that the measures I am now taking are purely
+precautionary: but it is necessary to communicate them to you, because
+if it happens that we must abandon the city, many of you will leave it
+also; and I should be responsible to the nation and to the King, if I
+had not forewarned you. (Signed)
+
+"IGNACIO LUIZ MADEIRA DE MELLO.
+
+Head-quarters, Bahia, May 28. 1823."
+
+This proclamation increased the general alarm to the highest pitch. The
+editors of even the Portuguese newspapers use the strongest language.
+One of them says, "The few last days, we have witnessed in this city a
+most doleful spectacle, that must touch the heart even of the most
+insensible: a panic terror has seized on all men's minds," &c.[110] And
+then goes on to anticipate the horrors of a city left without
+protectors, and of families, whose fathers being obliged to fly, should
+be left like orphans, with their property, a prey to the invaders. These
+fears abated a little on the 2d of June, when a vessel entered Bahia,
+having on board 3000 alquieres of farinha; and the spirits of the troops
+were raised by a slight advantage obtained on the 3d over the patriots.
+But the relief was of short duration. On a rigorous search there were
+found in the city no more than six weeks' provisions besides those
+necessary for the ships, and the General proceeded in his preparations
+for quitting Brazil. He now allowed the magistrates to resume their
+functions suspended by the declaration of martial-law, and produced a
+letter from the King, naming five persons to form a provisional
+government; and though some of them were unwilling to accept of the
+office, he caused them to take the oaths, and enter directly on their
+functions.
+
+[Note 110: _Semanario Civico_ of the 5th June.]
+
+Madeira's preparations for his departure were accelerated by an attack
+made by Lord Cochrane on the night of the 12th of June, with only the
+Pedro Primeiro. The Portuguese Admiral was ashore, dining with General
+Madeira; when, at ten o'clock at night, a shot was heard. "What is it?"
+exclaimed the latter to the messenger, who, in alarm, entered the
+room.--"'Tis Lord Cochrane's line-of-battle ship, in the very midst of
+our fleet."--"Impossible!" exclaimed the Admiral; "no large ship can
+have come up with the ebb tide." And there was as much consternation and
+as much bustle of preparation, as if the fleet of England had entered in
+a hostile manner. The Pedro Primeiro was indeed close alongside of the
+Constitui�a[)o]; but the Admiral disdained so small a prize, and pushed on
+to the Joam VI.; had he reached her, he might have carried the whole
+squadron out with him; but just as he seemed on the point of doing so,
+the breeze that had brought him in over the tide failed, and it fell a
+dead calm: by this time every ship was in motion, the forts began to
+play, and, reluctantly, the Pedro dropped out of the harbour with the
+tide, untouched by the enemy.
+
+The daring of this attempt has filled the Portuguese with astonishment
+and dismay, and they are now most willing to abandon Bahia. The church
+plate, and all the cash that can be collected, are believed to be on
+board the British ships of war.[111]
+
+[Note 111: This is reported only. I have never asked, nor should I,
+I imagine, receive an answer if I did ask, any English officer about
+such things. The general disposition among them is evidently towards the
+old government; but their conduct is, as it ought to be, strictly
+neutral.]
+
+_July 1st_.--A good deal of sensation has been excited to-day of rather
+a painful nature: the Emperor has fallen from his horse, and has broken
+two of his ribs, and is otherwise much bruised; however, his youth and
+strength prevent any serious apprehension from the consequences of his
+accident. There is no public news, and I am much too ill to care for any
+other. A foreigner, and alone, and very sick, I have abundant leisure to
+see the worth to the world of riches, or the appearance of them, and
+show and parade; and to feel that if I had them all, they could neither
+relieve the head nor the heart of the suffering or the sorrowful.
+
+I think I am grown selfish: I cannot interest myself in the little
+things of other people's lives as I used to do; I require the strong
+stimulus of public interest to rouse my attention. It is long since I
+have been able to go out among the beautiful scenery here, to enjoy the
+charms of nature.
+
+_11th_.--Once more I begin to feel better, and to go out of doors a
+little. All sorts of people crowd daily to visit the Emperor, who is
+recovering, but is still confined to the house. For the first time for
+these many weeks, I took a drive to-day; and went, as far as San
+Cristova[)o], to enquire after His Imperial Majesty, and leave my name. The
+road, both as I went and returned, was crowded with carriages and
+horsemen, on the same errand. Besides that the people do love him, his
+life is of the utmost importance to the very existence of Brazil as an
+independent nation at present, at any rate in peace.
+
+_13th_.--I have become acquainted with two or three pleasant Brazilians,
+and one or two of the better kind of Portuguese, who have adopted
+Brazil.[112] There are not above five Fidalgos of the number, and these
+ancient nobles are objects of jealousy to the new, in number about a
+dozen, who infinitely surpass them in riches; so that we have the usual
+gossip and scandal of courts and cities, in which, as the women are
+usually the most active, so they suffer most: nor are our English one
+whit behind them. There is not much formal visiting among the English,
+but a good deal of quiet tea-drinking, and now and then parties formed
+to dine out of doors in the cool weather.
+
+[Note 112: On the 9th of March, an Imperial edict was published,
+desiring all such as would not conform to the laws of the empire to quit
+it within two months, if they dwelt on the coast, and within four, if
+inland, on pain of loss of property; and thenceforth all good subjects
+to wear on their arms the green rose and gold badge, with _Independencia
+o Morte_, engraved on it.]
+
+In short, my countrywomen here are a discreet sober set of persons, with
+not more than a reasonable share of good or bad. They go pretty
+regularly to church on Sundays, for we have a very pretty protestant
+chapel in Rio, served by a respectable clergyman; meet after church to
+luncheon and gossip: some go afterwards to the opera, others play cards,
+and some few stay at home, or ride out with their husbands, and instruct
+themselves and families by reading; and all this much as it happens in
+Europe. However, they are all very civil to me; and why should I see
+faults, or be hurt at the absurd stories they tell of me, because they
+don't know me? Besides, 'tis no great affront to be called wiser than
+one is.
+
+_14th_.--Several prizes have arrived from the Moro of San Paulo. One of
+these vessels has brought news from the Moro that I only half like.
+After Lord Cochrane's visit to Bahia on the night of the 12th of June,
+he had been employed for the eight ensuing days in maturing a plan for a
+farther attack, which seemed sure of success; when, on the 20th[113],
+"some careless or malignant person set fire to a cask of spirits, which
+communicated to other casks, and created such terror, that more than a
+hundred persons jumped overboard; some of whom were drowned. It is
+calculated that we should have been blown up if the fire had raged only
+three minutes longer; and its extinction is chiefly to be ascribed to
+the presence of mind and personal exertion of His Lordship himself; who,
+I am grieved to add, was so overheated by the blaze and his own
+exertions, as to be too ill this morning to leave his bed."
+
+[Note 113: Extracted from a letter written to me on the 21st by a
+friend on board.]
+
+_17th_.--At length Bahia has fallen. Madeira, in pursuance of the plans
+announced in his proclamation of the 28th, had prepared all his ships of
+war, and a great number of merchantmen, with provisions, and ammunition,
+and stores: the plate, money, and jewels, were transhipped from the
+English vessels to his own, and it was believed he was to sail on the 3d
+of July. Lord Cochrane, having intelligence to that effect, had come
+alone in the Pedro Primeiro to look into the harbour, on the morning of
+the 2d, when he saw the Portuguese squadron loose all their topsails and
+prepare to move. This manoeuvre was not considered by the English within
+the bay as decisive, because it had been practised daily for some time.
+His Lordship, however, immediately made signals to the Maria de Gloria
+and Nitherohy to join him with all despatch. The Piranga, useless from
+her bad sailing, owing to the state of her copper, had been ordered to
+Rio; and she and the Liberal, who both arrived to-day, are the bearers
+of the official intelligence. Lord Cochrane, whose kindness is
+never-failing, writes to me as follows. I do not like to quote, even in
+my journal, private letters; but this is short, and tells in few words
+all that can be said:--
+
+"MY DEAR MADAM,
+
+"I have been grieved to learn your indisposition; but you must recover,
+now that I tell you we have starved the enemy out of Bahia. The forts
+were abandoned this morning; and the men of war, 13 in number, with
+about 32 sail of transports and merchant vessels, are under sail. We
+shall follow (i.e. the Maria da Gloria and Pedro Primeiro) to the
+world's end. I say again expect good news. Ever believe me your sincere
+and respectful friend,
+
+COCHRANE.
+2d July, 1823.
+Eight miles north of Bahia."
+
+I learn from the officers of the ships arrived, that the guns were all
+spiked, and the magazines blown up in Port Pedro, but otherwise every
+thing was left in good order in the town; and on the marching in of the
+Brazilian troops not the smallest disorder took place, nor was a life
+lost; a circumstance highly honourable to all parties.
+
+Though the Admiral mentions only forty-five vessels, it appears that
+there were many more, amounting to at least eighty, who took the
+opportunity of getting out with the fleet. When the Piranga left the
+Moro, a reinforcement of men had arrived there for the Admiral; and the
+Nitherohy was manning herself, and preparing to follow him in a few
+hours.
+
+This news is highly acceptable here, except among a class either
+secretly attached to, or interested in, Portugal. These are murmuring,
+and saying, "Is it not enough for Lord Cochrane to have driven the poor
+soldiers out of Bahia, without following to persecute them?" &c. And
+others are affecting to despise what they call an easy service. But the
+government knows that it was not an easy service to keep the sea with so
+small a squadron, so recently formed, against a fleet completely armed
+and manned,--vessels of the best class; far less to cut off the
+provisions of the enemy, so as to reduce him to the necessity of
+abandoning his city.
+
+There are illuminations and a gala opera to-night; but as the Emperor is
+not yet able to go, his picture, and that of the Empress, will appear
+instead. It is an old Portuguese custom, I believe, to display the
+picture of the monarch in his absence on occasions of ceremony.
+
+_18th_.--The city has been thrown into considerable agitation to-day, by
+the knowledge, that yesterday the ministry of the Andradas ceased. It
+appears that a few days ago, I believe on the 16th, an unknown person
+presented a letter at the palace-door, and told the servant who received
+it, that his life should not be safe if he did not deliver it into the
+Emperor's own hand. The letter was delivered accordingly, and read; upon
+which His Imperial Majesty sent for Jose Bonifacio: they remained
+closeted for a length of time, and the result of the conference was,
+that Jose Bonifacio resigned his employment; and Brazil has lost an able
+minister, and the Emperor a zealous servant. It is rumoured that the
+letter was written from St. Paul's, and contained at least 300
+signatures of persons complaining of the Andradas' tyrannical conduct in
+that province; particularly imprisoning persons who had opposed the
+election of certain members of the assembly, and ordering others, on
+various pretexts, to repair to Rio, where they had been kept away from
+their families.
+
+These things, however, are capable of a favourable interpretation; and,
+in such stormy times, some severity may have been necessary, or, indeed,
+the zeal of the minister may have carried him too far.[114]
+
+[Note 114: The discussions in the assembly of the 9th of May throw
+much light on this transaction.]
+
+However that may be, the resignation of Jose Bonifacio is certain; and
+not less so that of his brother, Martim Francisco, whose unimpeachable
+integrity at the head of the treasury it will not be easy to supply. The
+conjectures, reasonings, and reports, on these subjects, are, of course,
+very various. The most general idea is, that the Andradas are
+overpowered by a republican party in the assembly; which, though small,
+has a decided plan, and works accordingly; and, oddly enough, their fall
+is said to have been brought about by an attempt, on their part, to get
+rid of old monarchy men. Monis Tavares, a clever man, whose name will be
+remembered in the sittings of the Lisbon Cortes as an advocate for
+Brazil, proposed in an early sitting of the assembly, May 22, the
+absolute expulsion from Brazil of all persons born in Portugal. The
+proposal gave rise to a warm discussion, and was negatived. This defeat
+was the signal for all the Portuguese party, and they are not weak, to
+join with the republicans to overthrow the Andradas; and they have
+succeeded. Such is the view taken of this business by many intelligent
+persons. However the fact may be, the Emperor's feeling to disclaim all
+tyranny or connivance at tyranny, is praiseworthy; but a well-wisher to
+Brazil may be permitted to desire that such able men had proved their
+innocence to his satisfaction, and had retained their situations. This
+evening the Emperor has circulated the following address to his
+people:--
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil,
+
+"The government which does not guide itself by public opinion, or which
+is ignorant of it, must become the scourge of humanity. The monarch who
+knows not this truth will precipitate his empire into a gulf of
+misfortunes, each more terrible than the preceding. Providence has
+granted to me the knowledge of this truth. I have founded my system on
+it, and to that system I will be faithful.
+
+"Despotism and arbitrary acts are detested by me. It is but a short time
+since that I gave you one among many other proofs of this. We may all be
+deceived; but monarchs rarely hear the truth: if they do not seek it, it
+seldom appears to them. When once they know it, they should follow it. I
+have known it, and I do act accordingly. Although we have not yet a
+fixed constitution to govern ourselves by, we have at least those
+foundations for one, built on reason, which ought to be inviolable.
+These are the sacred rights of personal security, property, and the
+inviolability of the home of every citizen. If these have hitherto been
+violated, it was because your Emperor knew not that such despotism and
+acts of arbitrary power, improper at all times, and contrary to the
+system we profess, were exercised. Be assured that henceforth they shall
+be religiously supported: you shall live happy and safe in the bosoms of
+your families, in the arms of your tender wives, and surrounded by your
+beloved children. In vain shall imprudent men try to belie my
+constitutional principles; they will always triumph, as the sun breaks
+through the darkest clouds. Rely upon me, as I on you, and you will see
+democracy and despotism annihilated by rational liberty.
+
+THE EMPEROR."
+
+The address has been well received; and perhaps those incidents, which,
+in a time like the present, bring the monarch and people more together,
+are really conducive to the harmony and stability of the whole political
+system. Meantime, Jose Joaquim Carneiro de Campos is prime minister, and
+Manoel Jacintho Noguerra de Gama is at the head of the treasury; a man
+so rich as to be above temptation, and whose character for integrity is
+scarcely lower than that of his predecessor.
+
+_July 23d_.--I had for some time promised to paint a sketch of San
+Cristava[)o] for the Empress, and to-day I resolved to carry it to her. So
+I went, and on my way breakfasted at my good friend the Visconde�a do
+Rio Seco's; I then proceeded to the palace, and went up first to enquire
+after the Emperor's health: while I was writing my name, he, having
+perceived me arrive from the window, politely sent to say he would see
+me, and accordingly I was ushered into the presence-chamber by the
+Viador Don Luiz da Ponte; there I saw ministers and generals all in
+state. The Emperor was in a small inner room, where were his piano, his
+shooting apparatus, &c.; he was in an undressed cotton jacket with his
+arm in a sling, but looking well, although thinner and paler than
+formerly: he sent for the little picture, with which he seemed much
+pleased; and after speaking for some time very politely in French, I
+made my courtesy and retired. I then went to the Empress's apartment:
+she was out, but I was asked to wait for her return from her walk; and
+in the meantime I saw the young Princesses, who are extremely fair, and
+like Her Imperial Majesty, especially the eldest, Dona Maria da Gloria,
+who has one of the most intelligent faces I have seen. The Empress came
+in soon, and talked to me a good while on a variety of subjects, and
+very kindly of my late illness. Setting aside the consideration of her
+high rank, it is not a little pleasing to me to meet so well-educated
+and well-bred a woman; and I felt quite sorry to leave her without
+telling her so: she is in all respects an amiable and respectable woman.
+No distressed person ever applies to her in vain; and her conduct, both
+public and private, justly commands the admiration and love of her
+family and subjects: her personal accomplishments would adorn the
+station of a private gentlewoman; her temper, prudence, and courage, fit
+her for her high situation. On my way back to town I stopped at a
+country-house belonging to M. do Rio Seco: it is called Rio Comprido,
+and is remarkable for its garden; the outer hedge of which is like a
+fairy bower, or rather might adorn the gardens of Armida. A fence,
+breast-high, of myrtle and other evergreens, is surmounted by arcades
+of ever-blowing roses; among which a jessamine, or a scarlet or purple
+creeper, twines itself occasionally, enriching the flowery cornice of
+the pillars between which the paths of entrance lie. The inner part one
+might indeed wish less stiff; but then all is kept in such order, and
+filled with such rich flowers and shrubs, that one knows not how the
+change might be made with advantage. The house is low, and pleasant for
+the climate; the orchard, kitchen garden, and grass fields behind,
+delightful; and the whole is surrounded by beautiful views. The Padre
+Jose, who is the chaplain, is also the overseer of the estate; a
+combination of offices that I find is usual here.
+
+After passing some hours there with my hospitable friends, I returned to
+town, and spent an hour with my friend Dona Carlota de Carvalho e Mello,
+and met a number of the ladies of her family; and among the rest, her
+aunt, the wife of Manoel Jacintho, the new minister of finance, one of
+the most pleasing women I have seen in Brazil. I had the pleasure of
+complimenting Dona Carlota's father, on having just received his
+commission as member of the assembly for Bahia, now it is free: I might,
+with truth, have complimented Bahia on so judicious a choice. I returned
+home early, notwithstanding the entreaties of my young friend that I
+would stay, as she considered the evening scarcely begun: the family is
+so large, that, at the house of one or the other, there is always a
+pleasant evening society. The men converse apart till tea-time, after
+which music or dancing brings at least the younger part to join the
+ladies; and it is seldom that they separate before midnight.
+
+_July 25th_.--Our society at Botafogo is enlivened by the arrival of
+Commodore Sir T. Hardy, who occupies the house of the disembargador
+Fran�a, and who is not only cheerful and sociable himself, but causes
+cheerfulness around him. The officers of his own ship, and those of the
+rest of the squadron, are of course great acquisitions to the parties at
+Rio; but I see little of them: my dull house, and duller self, offering
+nothing inviting except to the midshipmen of my old ship, who visit me
+very constantly. I have bought a small horse[115] for the sake of
+exercise, and sometimes accompany the boys on their evening rides. Last
+night I went with two of them to the Praya Vermelha; and finding the
+officer of the guard at the gate of the fort, we asked leave to go in,
+which being granted, we entered, and walked about admiring the views. It
+was the first time I had seen the little bay Vermelha from the land
+side, the fort being built quite along the isthmus that unites the
+Sugar-loaf with the mainland. We remained without thinking of the time
+till the sun was fairly set; and then, on returning to the gate, we
+found it shut, and that the keys had been carried to the governor. So I
+had to go to the officer of the guard, who understanding what had
+happened, ordered the guard under arms, and went himself for the keys,
+and conducted us out of the fort with great politeness. Wherever I have
+met with Brazilians, from the greatest to the meanest, I must say I have
+always experienced the greatest politeness: from the fidalgo who calls
+on me in full court costume, to the peasant, or the common soldier, I
+have had occasion to admire, and be grateful for, their courtesy.
+
+[Note 115: For this beast, which is really fit for nothing but the
+riding of an invalid like myself, I gave 35 milrees; a price for which,
+in Chile, one might buy a very fine horse.]
+
+_August 1st, 1823_.--The English packet arrived to-day; and brings news
+that the royal party in Lisbon have overpowered that of the Cortes. This
+intelligence is looked on as very important here, because it is hoped
+that the court may be more easily induced to acknowledge the
+independence of Brazil; and it is said that the authorities in Madeira
+have already orders to receive, and treat amicably, ships under the
+Brazilian flag. The general tone of politics here is less pleasing than
+it has been. There have been some disagreeable discussions in the
+assembly: a vote has passed refusing the veto to the Emperor; and it is
+said that the republican party is so elated on the occasion, that they
+think of proposing to refuse him the command of the army. The
+Imperialists are of course indignant at all this. However, we shall see
+what will happen when the deputation of the assembly carries up the
+notice of the vote, as it is said will be done next week, when the
+Emperor will be strong enough to receive it. He is now so well that he
+intends in ten days to return thanks at the church of Santa Maria da
+Gloria, and means on the same day to review the troops at San Cristova[)o].
+They are collecting there for that purpose; and I saw the artillery
+marching that way to-day while I was in town, whither I went to purchase
+some newspapers, particularly the Diario da Assemblea. I take it very
+ill that ladies may not attend the sittings of the assembly, not that I
+know there is any formal prohibition; but the thing is considered as so
+impossible, that I cannot go. It is provided with a gallery? scarcely
+larger in proportion than that of the English House of Commons, for
+strangers; and the proceedings are published. The members speak standing
+in their places: they are something more dressed than the Commons in
+England; but they have no peculiar costume. The President or Speaker is
+changed monthly.
+
+_3d_.--I drank tea at the Baronesa de Campos'; and met a large family
+party, which always assembles on Sundays to pay their respects to the
+old lady. The tea was made by one of the young ladies, with the
+assistance of her sister, just as it would be in England. A large silver
+urn, silver tea-pots, milk-jugs, and sugar-dishes, with elegant china,
+were placed on a large table; round which several of the young people
+assembled, and sent round the tea to us, who sat at a distance. All
+sorts of bread, cakes, buttered toast, and rusks were handed with the
+tea; and after it was removed, sweetmeats of every description were
+presented, after which every body took a glass of water.
+
+_6th_.--Sailed to-day, H.M. ship Beaver, with my friend Mr. Dance as
+acting captain; the world says she takes some very important despatches
+relating to the commerce of England with the independent provinces of La
+Plata; but as the world often tells what is not true, and as what is
+true is never confessed by those who know officially, I never trouble
+myself to ask about these things. I am sorry to see almost my last
+friend leave the station before me: but I am now so used to losing, one
+way or another, all who from any motive have ever acted or felt kindly
+to me, that I hope soon to grow callous to the pain such loss still
+gives. It is in vain that I flatter myself that I have recovered the
+tone of my mind. I am affected even to weakness by every little
+incident, and am obliged to take refuge from my private feelings, in the
+interest that I have lately forced myself to take in the affairs of this
+country; and surely, where the happiness of millions of its
+fellow-creatures is at stake, the human heart may unblamed busy itself.
+
+This morning Sir T. Hardy, who is always anxious to do kind offices,
+carried me to call on Mrs. Chamberlain: I can truly say, if I had known
+her ideas on the subject of etiquette, I should have called on her
+before; and therefore I am glad to do what is expected.[116] She seems
+to be a well-informed woman, with pleasant manners.
+
+[Note 116: Notwithstanding the peculiar circumstances, both on my
+own account and that of the invalid I had with me, of my return to Rio,
+Mrs. C----, the wife of the British consul, took no notice of my
+arrival. I learnt afterwards, that it is expected that women, as well as
+men, should call on the consuls. I was not aware of this, having
+_formerly_ received the first visits in such cases.]
+
+After I returned, I joined a party in a pleasant ride to the _Copa
+Cabana_, a little fort that defends one of the small bays behind that of
+Vermelha, and whence there are to be seen some of the most beautiful
+views here. The woods in the neighbourhood are very fine, and produce a
+great deal of the excellent fruit called the Cambuc�; and among the
+hills the small oppossum and the armadillo are frequently found.
+
+_8th_.--The discussions and vote concerning the Emperor's veto have
+excited a great commotion, of words at least; and the English fetchers
+and carriers of news have agreed that there will be some serious
+insurrection on the part of the soldiers, to defend the Emperor from
+some indefinite oppression of the Assembly. I believe it is true that
+the Assembly itself, being convinced that their vote concerning the veto
+is impolitic and unjust, have determined to cancel it; and it is equally
+true, that there have been some military clubs, whose language has been
+rather violent on the subject. But that there are the slightest grounds
+for expecting any serious disturbance, I cannot think. The Emperor
+appears too sincere in his desire to see the greatest possible
+prosperity in Brazil, to encourage any violent proceedings to overawe
+the Constituent Assembly; and at the same time he has too much spirit to
+submit to terms, from any quarter, derogatory to his dignity and rights.
+I have just received his proclamation on the occasion, which I doubt not
+will produce a good effect. These proclamations are agreeable to the
+taste of the people; and in fact are the only channels through which
+they can learn any thing of the disposition of the Emperor in the
+present state of the country. To-day's is as follows:--
+
+"Brazilians!
+
+"On not a few occasions have I laid open to you my mind and my heart: on
+the first you will always find engraven constitutional monarchy, on the
+last your happiness. I am now desirous of giving you a fresh assurance
+of my sentiments, and of my detestation of despotism, whether exercised
+by one or by many.
+
+"Some of the municipalities of the northern provinces have given
+instructions to their deputies, in which the spirit of democracy
+predominates. Democracy in Brazil, in this vast empire, is an absurdity;
+and not less absurd is the pretending to give laws to those who are to
+make them, threatening them with the loss or diminution of powers which
+the constituents neither have given nor have power to give.
+
+"In the city of Porto Alegre, the troops and the people, the junta of
+government and the civil and ecclesiastical authorities, have also just
+committed an error, which they have confirmed, or rather aggravated, by
+solemn oath. Troops which ought to obey the monarch holding a council;
+incompetent authorities defining an article of the constitution, which
+is the business of the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly (and
+such is the veto, whether absolute or suspensive);--are most scandalous
+absurdities, and crimes which would merit the severest punishment, but
+for the consideration that they were suggested by ignorance, or produced
+by base deceptions.
+
+"Listen not therefore to those who flatter the people, or to those who
+flatter the monarch: they are equally base, and moved by personal and
+low interests; and under the mask of liberality or that of servility,
+seek alike, only to rear their proud and precarious fortunes on the
+ruins of their country. The times in which we live are full of
+melancholy warnings. Let us use the catastrophes of foreign nations as
+beacons.
+
+"Brazilians! confide in your Emperor and Perpetual Defender, who seeks
+no legal powers; nor will he ever suffer those to be usurped which
+belong to him of right, and which are indispensable in order that you
+may be happy, and that this empire may fulfil the high destinies suited
+to its boundaries of the wide Atlantic, and the proud floods of the
+Plata and the Amazons. Let us await reverently the constitution of the
+empire, and let us hope that it may be worthy of us.
+
+"May the Supreme Disposer of the Universe grant us union and
+tranquillity, strength and constancy; and the great work of our liberty
+and independence will be accomplished.
+
+THE EMPEROR."
+
+9_th August_.--The day on which the Pes de Chumbo predicted an
+insurrection has passed in perfect tranquillity, excepting for one
+melancholy accident. Their Imperial Majesties, as had been appointed,
+went to the Gloria church to return thanks for the Emperor's recovery.
+They were attended by the officers of state, and of the household, and
+as many officers of the different regiments as could attend. While the
+company were all on their knees, and just as the sacring-bell announced
+the elevation of the Host, the Chamberlain, Magalhaens, was struck with
+apoplexy, and died.
+
+12_th_.--This day, as well as yesterday and the day before, there have
+been illuminations and dressed operas on account of the Emperor's
+recovery; and to-night a vessel, prize to the squadron, arrived,
+bringing news of their wellbeing, and of the arrival of many prizes at
+Bahia and Pernambuco. As officers and men from the Imperial ships cannot
+be spared in sufficient numbers to work the prizes into port, Lord
+Cochrane makes sure of their going thither by starting the water,
+excepting what is sufficient for a certain number of days, and cutting
+away the main and mizen masts, so that they must run for the ports to
+leeward. Seamen will appreciate this.
+
+_August 14th_.--I went with M. Plasson, a very intelligent Frenchman, to
+whom I am indebted for a good deal of information about this country, to
+the museum, which I had seen in a hurried way, on my first visit to Rio.
+It is greatly improved since I was here, both externally and internally.
+The minerals of the country form the richest part of the collection. The
+diamonds, both colourless and black, surpass any thing I have seen; but
+I believe the crystals of gold to be the most precious articles here:
+there are several pieces of native gold, weighing three or four ounces;
+and some beautiful specimens of silver, as fine and as delicate as a
+lady's aigrette. I confess that the fine coloured copper, and the
+beautiful grained iron, pleased me as well as most things: some of the
+latter specimens yield 99 parts of iron. These are from the mines of St.
+Paul's, and I was shown some specimens of coal, as fine as Scotch coal,
+that has been recently discovered in the immediate neighbourhood of
+those very mines. The amethysts, topazes, quartzes of all colours, are
+innumerable: there are beautiful jaspers with veins of gold, and all
+manner of gorgeous works of nature, fit for Aladdin's cave, and the
+insects, especially the butterflies, fit to flit about in it. But the
+other branches of natural history are not rich here. Of birds there are
+few of note, beyond a splendid set of toucans; and of quadrupeds, a few
+monkies, two fawns like the roe-deer[117], and some very curious
+armadillos, are all I remember. The collection of Indian weapons and
+dresses is incomplete, and wants arrangement: this is a pity; for
+by-and-by, as the wild natives adopt civilised habits, these will be
+unattainable. The African curiosities are scarcely better kept, but some
+of them are very curious in their kind. One very remarkable one is a
+king's dress made of ox-gut, not in the state _le valliant des cubes_,
+but carefully cleaned and dried, as we do bladders. It is then split
+longitudinally, and the pieces sewed together, each seam being set with
+tufts or rather fringes of purple feathers; so that the vest is light,
+impervious to rain, and highly ornamental from its rich purple stripes.
+There is another entirely of rich Mazarine blue feathers; a sceptre most
+ingeniously wrought of scarlet feathers; and a cap of bark, with a long
+projecting beak in front, and a quantity of coloured feathers and hair
+behind, ornamented with beads. Besides all these things, there is the
+throne of an African prince of wood, beautifully carved. I could wish,
+since the situation of Brazil is so favourable for collecting African
+costume, that there were a room appropriated to these things, as they
+are curious in the history of man.
+
+[Note 117: I have eaten of the venison, and it is like roe-deer.]
+
+_15th_.--The feast of Our Lady of the Assumption, called here Nossa
+Senhora da Gloria, the patroness of the Emperor's eldest child, is
+celebrated to-day, and of course the whole of the royal family attended
+Mass in the morning and evening. I was spending the day with Mrs. May,
+at her pleasant house on the Gloria hill, and we agreed to go in the
+afternoon to see the ceremony. The church is situated on a platform,
+rather more than half way up a steep eminence overlooking the bay. The
+body is an octagon of thirty-two feet diameter; and the choir, of the
+same shape, is twenty-one feet in diameter. We entered among a great
+crowd of persons, and placed ourselves within the choir; and shortly
+afterwards the Imperial party entered, and I was not disagreeably
+surprised at being most pleasantly recognised. The salutation, as this
+evening's service is called, was well performed as to music, and very
+short: after it, for the first time, I heard a Portuguese sermon. It was
+of course occasional. The text, 1 Kings, chap. ii. ver. 19.--"And the
+king rose up to meet his mother, and bowed himself unto her, and sat
+down on his throne, and caused a seat to be set for the "king's mother,
+and she sat on his right hand." The application of this text to the
+legend of the Assumption is obvious, and occupied the first division of
+the discourse. The second part consisted in an application of the
+history of the early part of Solomon's reign to the present
+circumstances of Brazil; the restoration of the kingdom, the triumph
+over faction, and the institution of laws, forming the grounds of
+comparison. The whole people of Brazil were called upon to join in
+thanksgiving and prayers to the Virgin of Glory: thanksgiving that she
+had given to her people, as rulers, the descendants of the Emanuels, the
+Johns, and the Henrys of Portugal, and of the Maria Theresas of Austria;
+and prayers that she would continue her gracious protection, and that
+most especially to the eldest hope of Brazil, named after her and
+dedicated to her. The whole was gravely and properly done, with as
+little of the appearance of flattery to the illustrious persons present
+as possible, and did not last above fifteen minutes. On this occasion,
+the veadors, and other persons attendant on the Imperial family, wore
+white silk surplices, and bore torches in their hands.
+
+I went in the evening to a ball and concert at the Baronesa de Campos:
+on entering, I was met by the young ladies of the family, and led up to
+their grandmother; and after paying my compliments to her, I was placed
+among the division of the family where I had most acquaintance. There
+were only two Englishwomen besides Lady Cochrane and myself, and these
+were the wives of the consul and the commissioner for the slave
+business. A foreign gentleman present remarked, that though we were but
+four, we hardly conversed together. This was perfectly true: I like,
+when I am in foreign society, to talk to foreigners; and think it
+neither wise nor civil to form coteries with those of one's own nation
+in such cases. Several rooms were open, for cards; the stakes, I fancy,
+were high. The tea-room was no sooner full, than tea was handed round;
+and I perceived that some of the older servants, with great respect
+indeed, spoke to such of the guests as they were acquainted with. After
+tea, I had the pleasure of again hearing Dona Rosa sing, and almost
+grudged my gayer companions their ball, which broke in upon that "sober
+certainty of waking bliss," which music inspires into all, and
+especially to those who have known sorrow. I am no musician; but sweet
+sounds, especially those of the human voice, whether in speaking or
+singing, have a singular power over me.
+
+After the first dance was over, we walked all about the house, and found
+a magnificent dining-room as to size, but scarcely furnished to
+correspond with the rest of the house; the bed-rooms and dressing-rooms
+of the ladies are neat and elegantly fitted up with English and French
+furniture; and all as different as possible from the houses I saw in
+Bahia. I am told that they are likewise as different from what they were
+here twenty years since, and can well believe it; even during the twelve
+months of my absence from Rio, I see a wonderful polishing has taken
+place, and every thing is gaining an European air.
+
+I took the liberty of remarking to one of the ladies, the extreme youth
+of some of the children who accompanied their mothers this evening; and
+saying, that in England we should consider it injurious to them in all
+respects. She asked me what we did with them. I told her that some of
+them would be in bed, and others with their nurses and governesses. She
+said we were happy in that: but that here, there were no such persons,
+and that the children would be left to the care and example of the
+slaves, whose manners were so depraved, and practices so immoral, that
+it must be the destruction of the children; and that those who loved
+their children must keep them under their own eyes, where, if they were
+brought too forward in company, they at least could learn no ill. I love
+to collect these proofs of the evils of slavery--even here where it
+exists in a milder form than in most countries.--I left the dancers
+busily engaged at twelve o'clock, and I heard that they continued the
+ball until three. There is no peculiarity in the dancing here; the
+ladies of Rio being like ourselves, the pupils of the French, in that
+branch of the fine arts.
+
+_19th_.--Sir T. Hardy gave a ball and supper to English, French, and
+Brazilians: where every thing was handsome, and well-ordered; and every
+body pleased.
+
+_20th_.--I had long wished to see a little more of the neighbourhood of
+Rio than I have hitherto done; and had resolved on riding at least to
+Santa Cruz, about fourteen leagues from hence, and as the road is too
+well travelled to fear extraordinary accidents, and I am not timid as to
+common inconveniences, I had determined to hire a black attendant and go
+alone. This determination, however, was over-ruled by Mr. and Mrs. May,
+whose brother, Mr. Dampier, kindly offered to escort me. I confess I was
+very glad to be relieved of the absolute charge of myself, and not a
+little pleased to have the society of a well-bred, intelligent young
+man, whose taste for the picturesque beauties of nature agrees with my
+own.--I think that if there is one decided point in which
+fellow-travellers agree, however different in age, temper, or
+disposition, there may always be peace and pleasant conversation, more
+especially, if, as is our case, they travel on horseback. A difference
+of opinion is so easily evaded by a reference to one's horse, which may
+always go too fast or too slow, or exercise one's tongue or one's whip
+without any offence to one's two-legged companion.--We were well tried
+to-day. I had taken it into my head, that after having postponed our
+journey from week to week on one account or an other, if we did not
+begin it this day we never should go at all: and, therefore, though the
+afternoon was most unpromising, we left Mr. May's at half-past four
+o'clock, that we might reach Campinha, the first stage, to sleep; for,
+alas! these horses are not like my Chilian steeds, that would carry me
+twenty leagues a day without complaining. We mounted then, Mr. Dampier
+on a tall bay horse high in bone, with a brace of pistols buckled round
+him, in a huge straw hat, and a short jacket; I on a little grey horse,
+my boat-cloak over my saddle; otherwise dressed as usual, with a straw
+riding hat, and dark grey habit; and our attendant Antonio, the merriest
+of negroes, on a mule, with Mr. Dampier's portmanteau behind, and my bag
+before him.--We proceeded by the upper part of the town, and along the
+well-trodden road to San Cristova[)o], and after crossing the little hill
+to the left of the palace, entered on a country quite new to me. From
+the western side of the entrance to Rio Janeiro, a high mountainous
+ridge extends close to the sea, as far as the Bay of Angra dos Reyes,
+formed by Ilha Grande and Marambaya. On the northern side of this ridge
+there is a plain, here and there varied by low hills, extending quite to
+the most inland part of Rio de Janeiro, and reaching in a winding
+direction to the bay of Angra dos Reyes: itself having probably at no
+very remote period been covered with water, connecting these two bays,
+and insulating the mountains above mentioned. Along this plain our road
+lay between grand scenery on the one hand, and soft and beautiful
+landscape on the other; but to-night all was dark and louring; the tops
+of the mountains were wrapped in mists, that rushed impetuously down
+their sides, or through their clefts, and every now and then a hollow
+sound of wind came from out of them, though the blast did not quite
+reach us. Under this sort of cloud we passed the picturesque Pedragulha,
+and the little port of Benefica, formed by a creek of the Rio. By the
+time we reached Praya Pequena, where a good deal of produce is embarked
+for the city, the clouds had closed dully in, and the grand mountain
+mists had lost their character. Still we went on, leaving the bay
+entirely: and first we passed the Venda Grande, where every necessary
+for horse or man travelling, is to be sold; then the Capon do Bispo, a
+pretty village, which the rain clouds made me long to stop at; and then
+the stone bridge of Rio de Ferreira, where the rain at length began to
+fall in large cold drops; then tremendous gusts of wind came out of the
+mountain gaps, and long before we reached the Casca d'ouro, the
+protection of cloaks and umbrellas had ceased to avail. There we might
+have stopped; but having been told that the Venda of Campinha was the
+best resting-place, we resolved to proceed, and with some pains
+prevailed on my horse to go on: we reached the venda. But if it be
+delightful, after a long wet ride in a dark and boisterous night, to
+arrive at a place of rest, it is at least as wretched to be turned from
+the door where you hope to find shelter, with dripping clothes and
+shivering limbs; yet such was our fate. There was nothing at the venda
+to eat, no place for us, none for our horses, and so we set out again to
+brave the pitiless storm; a few yards, however, brought us to a low
+cottage on the road side, and there we knocked. A mulatto serving-man
+came round cautiously to reconnoitre from the back of the house, when
+having ascertained that we really were English travellers benighted and
+wet, the front door was opened, and we found within a middle-aged very
+kind-looking woman, and her little daughter; her name is Maria Rosa
+d'Acunha. Her husband and son were absent on business, and she and the
+little girl were alone. As soon as we had changed our wet clothes, and
+had provided for the horses, which our hostess put into an empty
+building, she gave us warm coffee, bread and cheese, and extended her
+hospitable care to the negro. She gave Mr. Dampier her son's bed, and
+made up a couch for me in the room where she and the child slept. These
+people are of the poorest class of farmers, not possessing above four or
+five slaves, and working hard themselves. They appear happy however, and
+I am sure are very hospitable.
+
+_21st_.--This morning looked at least as threatening as yesterday, but
+we determined to go as far as the Engenho dos Affonsos, for whose owner,
+Senhor Joam Marcus Vieira, we had letters from a friend in town.
+Accordingly we took leave of our kind hostess, who had made coffee early
+for us, and proceeded along a league of very pretty road to the
+Affonsos. Where that estate joins Campinha there is a large tiled shed
+where we found a party of travellers, apparently from the mines, drying
+their clothes and baggage after the last night's storm. A priest, and
+two or three men apparently above the common, appeared to be the masters
+of the party; the baggage was piled up on one side of the shed, and the
+arms were stuck into the cordage which bound it. There was a great fire
+in the middle, where a negro was boiling coffee, and several persons
+round drying clothes. Generally speaking, the men we met on their way
+from the mines are a fine, handsome race, lightly and actively made.
+Their dress is very picturesque. It consists of an oval cloak, lined and
+bordered with some bright colour such as rose or apple green, worn as
+the Spanish Americans wear the poncho. The sides are often turned up
+over the shoulders, and display a bright coloured jacket below. The
+breeches are loose, and reach to the knee, and loose boots of brown
+leather are frequently seen on the better sort, though it is very common
+to see the spurs upon the naked heel, and no boot or shoe of any kind.
+The higher classes have generally handsome pistols or great knives, the
+others content themselves with a good cudgel. A short league from the
+last house of Campinha, brought us to Affonsos, where we presented our
+letter, and were most kindly welcomed.--The estate belongs in fact to
+the grandmother of Senhor Joa[)o] Marcus, who is a native of St.
+Catherine's, and a widow. His mother, and sister, and brother, and two
+dumb cousins also reside here, but he is only an occasional visitor,
+being married, and living near his wife's family. The dumb ladies, no
+longer young, are very interesting; they are extremely intelligent,
+understanding most things said in Portuguese by the motion of the lips,
+so that their cousin spoke in French, when he wished to say any thing of
+them; they make themselves understood by signs, many of which, I may say
+most, would be perfectly intelligible to the pupils of Sicard or
+Braidwood. They are part of a family of eight children, four of whom are
+dumb, the dumb and the speakers being born alternately. One of them made
+breakfast for us, which consisted of coffee, and various kinds of bread
+and butter.
+
+After breakfast, as the day continued cold and showery, we were easily
+prevailed on by our host to remain all day at Affonsos. I was indeed
+glad of the opportunity of spending a whole day with a country family.
+The first place we visited after breakfast was the sugar-mill, which is
+worked by mules. The machinery is rather coarse, but seems to answer its
+purpose.
+
+The estate employs 200 oxen and 180 slaves as labourers, besides those
+for the service of the family. The produce is somewhere about 3000
+arobas of sugar, and 70 pipes of spirits. The lands extend from Tapera,
+the place where we met the travellers, and where 200 years ago there was
+an aldea of reclaimed Indians, about a league to Piraquara. There are
+about forty white tenants who keep vendas, and other useful shops on the
+borders of the estate near the roads, and exercise the more necessary
+handicrafts. But a small portion of the estate is in actual cultivation,
+the rest being covered with its native woods; but these are valuable as
+fuel for the sugar-furnaces, and timber for machinery, and occasionally
+for sale. The owners of estates prefer hiring either free blacks, or
+negroes let out by their masters[118], to send into the woods, on
+account of the numerous accidents that happen in felling the trees,
+particularly in steep situations. The death of an estate negro is the
+loss of his value, of a hired negro, only that of a small fine; and of a
+free black, it is often the saving even of his wages, if he has no son
+to claim them.
+
+[Note 118: The wages from a patac and half to two patacs per day,
+besides food.]
+
+Wheat does not grow in this part of Brazil, though in the southern and
+inland mountainous districts it thrives admirably. The luxury of wheaten
+bread is introduced everywhere, North America furnishing the flour.
+Wherever one travels in this neighbourhood, one is sure of excellent
+rusk at every venda, though soft bread is rare.
+
+The sugar-canes are planted here during the months of March, April, May,
+and even June and July. In the ridges between them maize and
+kidney-beans are planted, the cultivation of which is favourable to the
+sugar-cane: first the beans are gathered in, when the ground is weeded,
+and cleared, and loosened around the roots of the canes; then the maize
+is pulled, when a second weeding and clearing takes place; after which
+the sugar is tall enough to shade the ground, and prevent the growth of
+weeds. The first canes are ripe about May. The Cayenne cane yields best,
+and thrives in low grounds, the soil a mixture of sand and loam. The
+Creole cane takes the hill, and, though less productive, is supposed to
+yield sugar of a better quality. The cool months from May to September
+are the properest for boiling sugar. After October, the canes yield less
+juice by one-eighth, sometimes by one-fourth, and nearly as much more
+is lost in claying by the lightness of the sugar, the pots of three
+arobas not returning after the operation more than two and a half at
+most. The clay used in refining the sugar is dug close to the mill; it
+feels soft and fat in the fingers. It is placed in a wooden trough, with
+a quantity of lie made by steeping the twigs of a small shrub, which has
+a taste of soda[119], and worked up and down with a machine, something
+like a churn-staff, until it is of the consistence of thick cream, when
+it is ready for use. I suppose that the main business of expressing the
+juice, boiling it, and drying the sugars, as well as cleansing them, are
+carried on here as in every part of the world, though probably there may
+be some difference in every country, or even in every sugar-work; nor
+can the distilling the spirits be very different. Nothing is wasted in a
+sugar-house; the trash that remains after the canes are pressed, when
+dried, assists as fuel in heating the furnaces; the sweet refuse water
+that runs off from the still is eagerly drank by the oxen, who always
+seem to fatten on it.
+
+[Note 119: This is brought to the Engenhos of the district from the
+lake of Jacarepagua. I had no opportunity of seeing the whole plant.]
+
+By the time we had examined the sugar-work, and seen the garden, it was
+two o'clock, and we were summoned to dinner. Every thing was excellent
+in its kind, with only a little more garlic than is used in English
+cookery. On the side-table there was a large dish of dry farinha, which
+the elder part of the family called for and used instead of bread. I
+preferred the dish of farinha moistened with broth, not unlike brose,
+which was presented along with the bouillie and sliced saussage after
+the soup. The mutton was from the estate, small and very sweet. Every
+thing was served up on English blue and white ware. The table-cloths and
+napkins were of cotton diaper, and there was a good deal of plate used,
+but not displayed. After dinner some of the family retired to the
+siesta; others occupied themselves in embroidery, which is very
+beautiful, and the rest in the business of the house, and governing the
+female in-door slaves, who have been mostly born on the estate, and
+brought up in their mistress's house. I saw children of all ages and
+colours running about, who seemed to be as tenderly treated as if they
+had been of the family. Slavery under these circumstances is much
+alleviated, and more like that of the patriarchal times, where the
+purchased servant became to all intents one of the family. The great
+evil is, that though perhaps masters may not treat their slaves ill,
+they have the power of doing so; and the slave is subject to the worst
+of contingent evils, namely, the caprice of a half-educated, or it may
+be an ill-educated master. Were all slaves as well off as the house
+slaves of Affonsos, where the family is constantly resident, and nothing
+trusted to others, the state of the individuals might be compared with
+advantage to that of free servants. But the best is impossible, and the
+worst but too probable; since the unchecked power of a fallible being
+may exercise itself without censure on its slaves.
+
+One of the dumb ladies made tea, and afterwards we passed a couple of
+hours at a round game of cards, where the sisters felt themselves quite
+on an equality with the speakers, and enjoyed themselves accordingly. I
+remember an account given by Bishop Burnet in his Travels, of a dumb
+lady who had invented a way of communicating with her sister, even in
+the dark, before the instruction of such unfortunate persons had become
+an object of public attention. Some such method these ladies possess of
+discoursing together, and of making themselves understood by their young
+cousin, an intelligent girl, who is always at hand to interpret for
+them. They have also invented arbitrary signs for the names of the
+flowers and plants in their garden, which signs all the family know; and
+I was delighted with the quickness and precision with which they
+conversed on every subject within their knowledge.
+
+The cards made way for the supper, a meal almost as ceremonious, and
+quite as constant, as the dinner. After it, toasted cheese was
+introduced, with girdle cakes of farinha freshly toasted, and spread
+with a very little Irish butter; they are the same as the Casava bread
+of the West Indies, but prepared here are more like Scotch oat-cakes.
+On retiring to my room at night, a handsome young slave entered, with a
+large brass pan of tepid water, and a fringed towel over her arm, and
+offered to wash my feet. She seemed disappointed when I told her I never
+suffered any body to do that for me, or to assist me in undressing at
+any time. In the morning she returned, and removing the foot bath,
+brought fresh towels, and a large embossed silver basin and ewer, with
+plenty of tepid water; which she left without saying a word, and told
+her mistress I was a very quiet person, and, she supposed, liked nobody
+but my own people, so she would not disturb me.
+
+_Friday, August 22d_.--The day as fine as possible; and after breakfast
+we pursued our journey to Santa Cruz, the road improving in beauty as we
+proceeded.
+
+    "Here lofty trees to ancient song unknown,
+    The noble sons of potent heat, and floods
+    Prone rushing from the clouds, rear'd high to heav'n
+    Their thorny stems, and broad around them threw
+    Meridian gloom."
+
+And above all these the mountains rose in the distance, and lower hills
+more near, between which, long valleys stretched themselves till the eye
+could follow them no farther; and the foregrounds were filled up with
+gigantic aloes, streams, and pools, and groups of passing cattle and
+their picturesquely clad conductors. Near Campo Grande, the scenery is
+diversified by several little green plains, with only an insulated tree
+here and there, decorated with air plants in bloom, and scarlet
+creepers. Beyond this lies one of the most beautiful spots I ever saw,
+namely, Viaga; where the rocks, trees, plains, and buildings, seem all
+placed on purpose to be admired. Having loitered a little to admire it,
+we rode on to the New Freguezia of Sant Antonio, where we stopped at a
+very neat venda to rest and feed our horses. The church is on a little
+hill, overlooking a very pretty country and a neat village, but the
+greater part of the parish is very distant. While the horses were eating
+their maize, we procured for ourselves some rusk, cheese from the
+province of Minas exactly like Scotch kebbuck, and port wine from the
+cask of excellent quality. These provisions are always to be had, with
+beans, bacon, and dried beef. But the hospitality of a Brazilian inn
+does not extend to cooking food for travellers, who generally carry the
+utensils for that purpose with them, and who in some shed attached to
+the inn cook for themselves, and generally sleep in the same shed. At
+Sant Antonio there are decent sleeping-rooms provided with benches and
+mats, to which the guests add what bedding they please; but travellers
+commonly wrap themselves in their cloaks, and so rest. As soon as our
+horses were ready, we rode on to Mata Paciencia, the engenho of Dona
+Mariana, the eldest daughter of the Baroness de Campos, and to whom we
+had a letter of introduction. Here we met with a most polite reception
+from a handsome ladylike woman, whom we found attending to her engenho,
+which is indeed an interesting one. We were received at first by the
+chaplain, a polite and well-informed person; and with him was the
+chaplain of Santa Cruz, who having been formerly a professor in the
+college at Rio, is commonly known by the name of the Padre Mestre.
+
+Dona Mariana led us into the engenho, where we had seats placed near the
+rollers, which are worked by an eight-horse power steam-engine, one of
+the first, if not the very first, erected in Brazil. There are here 200
+slaves, and as many oxen, in constant employ. The steam-engine, besides
+the rollers in the sugar-house, moves several saws; so that she has the
+advantage of having her timber prepared almost without expense. While we
+were sitting by the machine, Dona Mariana desired the women, who were
+supplying the canes, to sing, and they began at first with some of their
+own wild African airs, with words adopted at the moment to suit the
+occasion. She then told them to sing their hymns to the Virgin; when,
+regularly in tune and time, and with some sweet voices, the evening and
+other hymns were sung; and we accompanied Dona Mariana into the house,
+where we found that while we had been occupied in looking at the
+machinery, the boilers, and the distillery, dinner had been prepared for
+us, though it was long after the family hour. On our departure, we were
+hospitably pressed to return on our way back to Rio, which we, "nothing
+loath," promised to do.
+
+It was quite dark long before we reached Santa Cruz, and exceedingly
+cold: when there, we easily found the house of the gentleman to whom we
+had a letter of introduction, the Capita[)o] de Fragata Joam da Cruz de
+Reis, who is the superintendant of the palace and estate. The Visconde
+do Rio Seco had kindly furnished us with this letter, and mentioned that
+the object of the journey was mere curiosity, so that the Capita[)o] told
+us that he would next day do all he could to satisfy us. Soon after our
+arrival, several persons dropped in to converse half an hour; among the
+rest, a surgeon, who comes from Rio once a year to vaccinate the
+children born in the twelve-months on the estate. The Padre Mestre and
+another friar also came in; and I soon found that Santa Cruz has its
+politics and gossip as well as the city, all the difference being in a
+little more or less refinement. Nothing can exceed the good-humoured
+hospitality of our host and hostess, who soon made us feel quite at
+home; and by the time tea was over, we were quite initiated into all the
+ways of the house and the village.
+
+_Saturday, 23d_.--The morning was excessively cold but clear, and the
+view of the extensive plains of Santa Cruz, with the herds of cattle
+upon it, most magnificent. The pasture, which extends many leagues on
+each side of the little hill on which the palace and village are
+situated, is here and there varied by clumps of natural wood; the
+horizon extends to the sea in one direction, and every where else the
+view is bounded by mountains or woody hills. The palace itself occupies
+the site of the old Jesuits' college. Three sides are modern: the fourth
+contains the handsome chapel of the very reverend fathers, and a few
+tolerable apartments. The new part was built for King John VI., but the
+works were stopped on his departure. The apartments are handsome, and
+comfortably furnished. In this climate hangings, whether of paper or
+silk, are liable to speedy decay from damp and insects. The walls are
+therefore washed with a rich creamy white clay, called Taboa
+Tinga[120], and cornices and borders painted on them in distemper. Some
+of these are exceedingly beautiful in design, and generally very well
+executed, the arabesques of the friezes being composed of the fruits,
+flowers, birds, and insects of the country. One of the rooms represents
+a pavilion; and between the open pilasters, the scenery round Santa Cruz
+is painted, not well indeed, but the room is pleasant and cheerful. The
+artists employed were chiefly mulattoes and creole negroes.
+
+[Note 120: Taboa tinga, a very fine white clay, proper for making
+porcelain, very abundant in Brazil, and, as far as I can judge, the same
+as is found in the valleys of Chile.]
+
+After breakfast, we rode along the causeway that crosses the plain of
+Santa Cruz, to the Indian aldea of San Francisco Xavier de Itaguahy,
+commonly called Taguahy, formed by the Jesuits not very long before
+their expulsion. The situation of the aldea and church is extremely
+fine; on the summit of a hill overlooking a rich plain, watered by a
+navigable river, and surrounded by mountains. We entered several of the
+huts of the Indians, whom I had understood to be of the Guaranee nation.
+I enquired of one of the women, in whose hut I sat down, if she knew
+whence her tribe came: she said no; she had been brought, when a mere
+child, from a great distance to Taguahy, by the fathers of the company;
+that her husband had died when she was young; that she and her daughters
+had always lived there; but her sons and grandsons, after the fathers of
+the company went, had returned to their fathers, by which she meant that
+they had resumed their savage life. This is not surprising. The Indians
+here must work for others, and become servants; a state they hardly
+distinguish from slavery. Besides, slaves are plentiful; and as the
+negro is hardier than the Indian, his labour is more profitable;
+therefore, a willing Indian does not always find a master. The produce
+of his little garden, or his fishing, is rarely sufficient for his
+family; and without the protection of the priest, whose chief favour was
+procuring constant occupation, the half-reclaimed savage droops, and
+flies again to the liberty of his forest, to his unrestrained hunting
+and fishing. The Chilian Indians rarely or never return to their forests
+when their villages are once formed; but that depends on circumstances,
+which have nothing in common with the state of Brazil. Many of the
+Indian women have married the creole Portuguese; intermarriages between
+creole women and Indian men are more rare. The children of such couples
+are prettier, and appear to me to be more intelligent, than the pure
+race of either. The Indian huts at Taguahy are very poor; barely
+sufficient in walls and roof to keep out the weather, and furnished with
+little besides hammocks and cooking utensils; yet we were every where
+asked to go in and sit down: all the floors were cleanly swept, and a
+log of wood or a rude stool was generally to be found for a seat for the
+stranger, the people themselves squatting on the ground.
+
+At the foot of the hill of Taguahy there is a very fine ingenho, sold by
+King Joam VI. to one de Barros; the rollers are worked by a horizontal
+water-wheel about twenty-two feet in diameter, turned by the little
+stream Taguahy. The quantity of sugar made in a given time is something
+more than that produced by the steam-engine at Mata Paciencia, the
+number of slaves employed being the same.
+
+After we had admired the neatness of the engenho and the beauty of the
+situation sufficiently, we left Taguahy to return to Santa Cruz, and
+re-crossed the river Guandu, where there is a guard-house by the bridge,
+where passes from the police are required from ordinary travellers; but
+as we had a servant from Santa Cruz with us, we were not questioned. The
+Guandu rises in the mountain of Marapicu, in the barony of Itanhae; and
+having received the Tingui, it passes to the engenho of Palmares,
+occupied by the Visconde de Merendal; where there is a wharf where the
+produce of the neighbouring estates is embarked, and conveyed to
+Sepetiva, a little port in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, where it is
+shipped for Rio, the passage thither being generally of twenty-four
+hours.
+
+In 1810 there was an intention of uniting the Guandu with the Itaipu by
+a short canal; by which means the produce, not only of this district,
+but of the Ilha Grande, would have been conveyed directly to Rio,
+without the risk of the navigation outside of the harbour: I know not
+why the project was abandoned.
+
+Every time I pass through a grove in Brazil, I see new flowers and
+plants, and a richness of vegetation that seems inexhaustible. To-day I
+saw passion-flowers of colours I never observed before; green, pink,
+scarlet, and blue: wild pine apples, of beautiful crimson and purple:
+wild tea, even more beautiful than the elegant Chinese shrub:
+marsh-palms, and innumerable aquatic plants, new to me: and in every
+little pool, wild-ducks, water-hens, and varieties of storks, were
+wading about in graceful pride. At every step I am inclined to exclaim
+with the minstrel--
+
+    "Oh nature, how in every charm supreme!
+      Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new:
+    Oh, for the voice and fire of seraphim
+      To paint thy glories with devotion due!"
+
+After dinner I walked about a little in the village of the negroes.
+There are, I believe, about fifteen hundred on the estate, the greater
+part of whom belong to the outlying farms or feitorias, of which there
+are, I believe, three; Bom Jardin, Piperi, and Serra: these yield
+coffee, feijo[)a], and maize. The immediate neighbourhood of Santa Cruz is
+appropriated to the rearing of cattle, of which there are this year
+about four thousand head; and a good deal of pasture land is annually
+let. The negroes of Santa Cruz are not fed and clothed by the Emperor,
+but they have their little portions of land; and they have half of
+Friday, all Saturday and Sunday, and every holiday, to labour for
+themselves; so that they at most work for their master four days, in
+return for their house and land; and some even of the external marks of
+slavery are removed, as the families feed and clothe themselves without
+the master's interference. The Emperor has appropriated great part of a
+very commodious building, erected by his father for the royal stud, to
+the purpose of an hospital. I visited it, and found a white surgeon and
+black assistant; decent beds, and well-ventilated apartments: the
+kitchen was clean, and the broth, which was all I found cooked at the
+time of night when I was there, good: there were about sixty patients,
+most of them merely for sores in their feet, some from giggers, others a
+sort of leprosy from working in damp grounds, and a few with
+elephantiases; fevers are very rare; pulmonary complaints not uncommon.
+Several of the inmates of the hospital were there merely from old age;
+one was insane; and there was a large ward of women, with young
+children: so that, on the whole, I consider the hospital as affording a
+proof of the healthiness of the negroes of Santa Cruz.
+
+_Sunday, 24th_, presented a very respectable congregation on its way to
+the chapel of Santa Cruz. There were all the officers belonging to the
+palace, with their wives and families; also the shopkeepers of the
+village and neighbourhood, besides a good many of the negro people; all
+of them, I think, better dressed than persons of the same class
+elsewhere in this part of Brazil.
+
+I walked up to the tea-gardens, which occupy many acres of a rocky hill,
+such as I suppose may be the favourite _habitat_ of the plant in China.
+The introduction of the culture of tea into Brazil was a favourite
+project of the King Joam VI., who brought the plants and cultivators at
+great expense from China. The tea produced both here and at the botanic
+gardens is said to be of superior quality; but the quantity is so small,
+as never yet to have afforded the slightest promise of paying the
+expense of culture. Yet the plants are so thriving, that I have no doubt
+they will soon spread of themselves, and probably become as natives. His
+Majesty built Chinese gates and summer-houses to correspond with the
+destination of these gardens; and, placed where they are, among the
+beautiful tea-shrubs, whose dark shining leaves and myrtle-like flowers
+fit them for a parterre, they have no unpleasing effect. The walks are
+bordered on either hand with orange trees and roses, and the garden
+hedge is of a beautiful kind of mimosa; so that the China of Santa Cruz
+forms really a delightful walk. The Emperor, however, who perceives that
+it is more advantageous to sell coffee and buy tea, than to grow it at
+such expense, has discontinued the cultivation.
+
+Our hospitable friends the Capita[)o] and his lady would not allow us to
+leave them till after dinner, having invited several persons to do
+honour to us, and to a sumptuous feast they had prepared, where every
+good thing that can be named was present. However, due honour having
+been done to the table, we took our leave; and at about four o'clock or
+a little earlier set off for Mata Paciencia, where we arrived a little
+before sunset.
+
+On our arrival we went with Dona Mariana and the chaplain into the
+garden, which unites the flower, kitchen-garden, and orchard in one.
+Oranges and roses, cabbage and tobacco, melons and leeks, neighboured
+each other, as if they belonged to the same climate; and all were
+thriving among numbers of weeds, of which the wholesome calliloo and the
+splendid balsam attracted my eye most. A side-door in the garden let us
+into a beautiful field, whither chairs were brought, that we might sit
+and enjoy the freshness of the evening. Overhanging that field there is
+a steep hill, on whose side a great deal of wood has been cleared away,
+and the gardens and coffee plots of the negroes occupy the ground. This
+day--and blessed be the Sabbath!--is the negroes' own: after morning
+Mass they are free to do their own will; and then most of them run to
+the hill to gather their coffee or maize, or prepare the ground for
+these or other vegetables. They were just beginning to return from the
+wood, each with his little basket laden with something of his own,
+something in which the master had no share; and again and again as they
+passed me, and displayed with glistening eye the little treasure, I
+blessed the Sabbath, the day of freedom to the slave. Presently the last
+few stragglers dropped in. The sun by this time was only the tops of the
+hills. The cattle flocked in from the pasture, and lowed impatiently at
+the gate of the corral: we opened it, and passed in with them, and
+crossed the court where the negroes live. All was bustle there: they
+were bargaining with a huckster, who, knowing the proper hour, had
+arrived to buy the fresh-picked coffee. Some sold it thus; others chose
+to keep it and dry it, and then to take the opportunity of one of the
+lady's messengers to town and send it thither, where it sells at a
+higher price. I do not know when I have passed so pleasant an evening.
+
+After supper I had a great deal of conversation with Dona Mariana
+concerning the sugar-work, the cultivation of the cane, and the slaves,
+confirming what I had learnt at Affonsos. She also tells me, as I had
+heard before, that the Creole negroes are less docile and less active
+than the new negroes. I think both facts may be accounted for without
+having recourse to the influence of climate. The new negro has the
+education of the slave-ship and the market, the lash being administered
+to drill him; so that when bought he is docile from fear, active from
+habit. The creole negro is a spoiled child, till he is strong enough to
+work; then, without previous habits of industry, he is expected to be
+industrious, and having eaten, drunk, and run about on terms of familiar
+equality, he is expected to be obedient; and where no moral feelings
+have been cultivated, he is expected to show his gratitude for early
+indulgence by future fidelity. Dona Mariana tells me, that not half the
+negroes born on her estate live to be ten years old. It would be worth
+while to enquire into the cause of this evil, and whether it is general.
+
+I conversed also a good while with the chaplain on the general state of
+the country. He is a native of Pernambuco; of course a staunch
+independent. * * * It is needless to say that every thing in the manner
+of living at Mata Paciencia is not only agreeable but elegant. And if
+the stories of older travellers concerning the country life of the
+Brazilians be true, the change has been most rapid and complete.
+
+_25th August_.--- I was very sorry to leave Mata Paciencia this morning
+when it was time to return; however, the hour came, and we departed for
+Affonsos.
+
+On the road we stopped to make some sketches, and at Campo Grande to
+refresh our horses; and were glad ourselves, as the day was pretty cool,
+to partake of a beef-steak which the good woman of the house cooked
+according to our directions, the first she had ever seen, regretting all
+the time that their own dinner was over, and that there was not time to
+boil or roast for us. But hospitality seems the temper of the country.
+
+On our arrival at Affonsos we were received as old friends, and much
+pressed to stay a couple of days, in order to make excursions to some
+picturesque spots in the neighbourhood, which I would fain have done,
+but my young friend, Mr. Dampier, could not spare the time; so I was
+obliged to content myself with only hearing of the beauties of the lake
+of Jacarepagua, and N.S. da Pena, &c.
+
+26_th._--We left Affonsos by times this morning, and shortly afterwards
+met an original-looking group of travellers. First came rather a
+handsome woman, in a blue joseph and broad black hat, riding astride;
+then three gentlemen in Indian file, all natural Falstaffs, in enormous
+straw hats, and mounted on good well-groomed horses; next followed the
+lady's maid, also astride, with her mistress's portmanteau buckled
+behind her; and behind her the valet, with three leathern bags hanging
+to his saddle by long straps, so as to swing as low as the stirrups, and
+whose size and shape denoted the presence of at least a clean shirt;
+and, lastly, a bare-headed slave with two mules, one laden with baggage
+and provisions, and the other as a relay. They all saluted us gravely
+and courteously as they passed; and I thought I had gotten among some of
+Gil Blas' travellers in the neighbourhood of Oviedo or Astorga, so
+completely did they differ from any thing usual with us.
+
+We stopped, of course, at Campinha, to call on our hospitable hostess,
+Senhora Maria Rosa, and found her at a neighbour's house; whither we
+followed her, and found her surrounded by four of the prettiest women I
+have seen in Brazil. From the veranda, where we sat talking with them
+for some time, we had leisure to admire the country about Campinha,
+which was totally obscured the first time we passed by rain. It is of
+the same beautiful character with the rest we have seen, being
+distinguished by a new mud fort, now building on a little insulated
+knoll, which commands the road through the hills, and by the plain to
+the capital. The want of some such point of defence was felt when Du
+Clerc landed in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, at the beginning of the last
+century, and marched without stop to the city.
+
+After feeding our horses at the very pretty station of Rio Ferreira, we
+proceeded homewards; and arrived at Mr. May's in good time to dinner,
+having had a very pleasant excursion, and, on my part, seeing more of
+Brazil and Brazilians in these few days, passed entirely out of English
+reach, than in all the time I had been here before.
+
+On my arrival at home I found news from Lord Cochrane of the 9th July,
+in latitude 6� S., longitude 32� W.; when half the army, colours,
+ammunition, and stores of Madeira had fallen into his hands, and he was
+in pursuit of the rest, intending afterwards to follow the Joa[)o] VI. and
+frigates. Should he be able to separate them, no doubt he will capture
+them; but alone, under his circumstances, against them, so armed and
+manned, I fear it will be impossible.--He has already effected more than
+could have been expected, or perhaps than any commander besides himself
+could have done. He attributes much to the imprudence, or imbecility of
+the enemy, whose plan of saving an army he likens to Sterne's marble
+sheet. However, others are just enough to him, to feel that no faults of
+the enemy's commander lessen his merit, or obscure the courage necessary
+to follow up, attack, and take half at least of a fleet of seventy
+sail,[121] well found and provisioned, and full of veteran troops.
+
+[Note 121: It is now certain that Joa[)o] Felix had at least that
+number.]
+
+There is a letter from Lord Cochrane to the magistrates of Pernambuco
+published in the gazette. His Lordship, after mentioning his success,
+and stating his want of seamen, says, "We must have sailors to end the
+war. If Your Excellencies will give 24 milrees bounty, as at Rio de
+Janeiro, drawing on government for the same, you will do a great service
+to the country. I do not say Portuguese sailors, who are enemies; but
+sailors of _any other nation_."
+
+His Lordship mentions farther in his letters to Pernambuco, that his
+reasons for rather following up the transports at first, instead of the
+ships of war, which were the objects he had most at heart, were, lest
+the troops should land, as they had threatened, in some other port of
+Brazil, and commit new hostilities in the empire. And he concludes with
+announcing that he sends several flags taken from the enemy.
+
+_August 29th._--To-day I received a visit from Dona Maria de Jesus, the
+young woman who has lately distinguished herself in the war of the
+Reconcave. Her dress is that of a soldier of one of the Emperor's
+battalions, with the addition of a tartan kilt, which she told me she
+had adopted from a picture representing a highlander, as the most
+feminine military dress. What would the Gordons and MacDonalds say to
+this? The "garb of old Gaul," chosen as a womanish attire!--Her father
+is a Portuguese, named Gonsalvez de Almeida, and possesses a farm on the
+Rio do Pex, in the parish of San Jos�, in the Certa[)o], about forty
+leagues inland from Cachoeira. Her mother was also a Portuguese; yet the
+young woman's features, especially her eyes and forehead, have the
+strongest characteristics of the Indians. Her father has another
+daughter by the same wife; since whose death he has married again, and
+the new wife and the young children have made home not very comfortable
+to Dona Maria de Jesus. The farm of the Rio do Pex is chiefly a cattle
+farm, but the possessor seldom knows or counts his numbers. Senhor
+Gonsalvez, besides his cattle, raises some cotton; but as the Certa[)o] is
+sometimes a whole year without rain, the quantity is uncertain. In wet
+years he may sell 400 arobas, at from four to five milrees; in dry
+seasons he can scarcely collect above sixty or seventy arobas, which may
+fetch from six to seven milrees. His farm employs twenty-six slaves.
+
+The women of the interior spin and weave for their household, and they
+also embroider very beautifully. The young women learn the use of
+fire-arms, as their brothers do, either to shoot game or defend
+themselves from the wild Indians.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Dona Maria told me several particulars concerning the country, and more
+concerning her own adventures. It appears, that early in the late war of
+the Reconcave, emissaries had traversed the country in all directions,
+to raise patriot recruits; that one of these had arrived at her father's
+house one day about dinner time; that her father had invited him in, and
+that after their meal he began to talk on the subject of his visit. He
+represented the greatness and the riches of Brazil, and the happiness to
+which it might attain if independent. He set forth the long and
+oppressive tyranny of Portugal; and the meanness of submitting to be
+ruled by so poor and degraded a country. He talked long and eloquently
+of the services Don Pedro had rendered to Brazil; of his virtues, and
+those of the Empress: so that at the last, said the girl, "I felt my
+heart burning in my "breast." Her father, however, had none of her
+enthusiasm of character. He is old, and said he neither could join the
+army himself, nor had he a son to send thither; and as to giving a slave
+for the ranks, what interest had a slave to fight for the independence
+of Brazil? He should wait in patience the result of the war, and be a
+peaceable subject to the winner. Dona Maria stole from home to the house
+of her own sister, who was married, and lived at a little distance. She
+recapitulated the whole of the stranger's discourse, and said she wished
+she was a man, that she might join the patriots. "Nay," said the sister,
+"if I had not a husband and children, for one half of what you say I
+would join the ranks for the Emperor." This was enough. Maria received
+some clothes belonging to her sister's husband to equip her; and as her
+father was then about to go to Cachoeira to dispose of some cottons, she
+resolved to take the opportunity of riding after him, near enough for
+protection in case of accident on the road, and far enough off to escape
+detection. At length being in sight of Cachoeira, she stopped; and going
+off the road, equipped herself in male attire, and entered the town.
+This was on Friday. By Sunday she had managed matters so well, that she
+had entered the regiment of artillery, and had mounted guard. She was
+too slight, however, for that service, and exchanged into the infantry,
+where she now is. She was sent hither, I believe, with despatches, and
+to be presented to the Emperor, who has given her an ensign's
+commission and the order of the cross, the decoration of which he
+himself fixed on her jacket.
+
+She is illiterate, but clever. Her understanding is quick, and her
+perceptions keen. I think, with education she might have been a
+remarkable person. She is not particularly masculine in her appearance,
+and her manners are gentle and cheerful. She has not contracted any
+thing coarse or vulgar in her camp life, and I believe that no
+imputation has ever been substantiated against her modesty. One thing is
+certain, that her sex never was known until her father applied to her
+commanding officer to seek her.
+
+There is nothing very peculiar in her manners at table, excepting that
+she eats farinha with her eggs at breakfast and her fish at dinner,
+instead of bread, and smokes a segar after each meal; but she is very
+temperate.
+
+Sept. 8_th_, 1823.--I went with Mr. Hoste and Mr. Hately, of His
+Majesty's ship Briton, to Praya Grande, to see a party of Botecudo
+Indians, who are now there on a visit. As it is desired to civilise
+these people by every possible means, whenever they manifest a wish to
+visit the neighbourhood of the city, they are always encouraged and
+received kindly, fed to their hearts' content, and given clothes, and
+such trinkets and ornaments as they value. We saw about six men, and ten
+women, with some young children. The faces are rather square, with very
+high cheek-bones, and low contracted foreheads. Some of the young women
+are really pretty, of a light copper-colour, which glows all over when
+they blush; and two of the young men were decidedly handsome, with very
+dark eyes, (the usual colour of the eyes is hazel,) and aquiline noses;
+the rest were so disfigured by the holes cut in their lower lips and
+their ears to receive their barbarous ornaments, that we could scarcely
+tell what they were like. I had understood that the privilege of thus
+beautifying the face was reserved for the men,[122] but the women of
+this party were equally disfigured. We purchased from one of the men a
+mouth-piece, measuring an inch and a half in diameter. The ornaments
+used by these people are pieces of wood perfectly circular, which are
+inserted into the slit of the lip or ear, like a button, and are
+extremely frightful, especially when they are eating. It gives the mouth
+the appearance of an ape's; and the peculiar mumping it occasions is so
+hideously unnatural, that it gives credit to, if it did not originally
+suggest, the stories of their cannibalism.[123] The mouth is still more
+ugly without the lip-piece, the teeth appearing, and saliva running
+through.
+
+[Note 122: See Southy's Brazil, for the manners of the Tupayas. I am
+not sufficiently acquainted with the filiation of the Indian tribes, to
+know what relation the Botecudos bear to the Tupayas.]
+
+[Note 123: Perhaps all the Indians may have been so far cannibals,
+as to taste of the flesh of prisoners taken in battle, or victims
+offered to the gods; but I cannot believe that any ever fed habitually
+on human flesh, for many reasons. But their traducers had their reasons
+for inventing and propagating the most atrocious falsehoods, as a sort
+of excuse for their own barbarity in hunting and making slaves of them.
+These practices, indeed, were so wicked, and so notorious, that in 1537,
+the Dominican Frey Domingos de Becan�oo, provincial of the order in
+Mexico, sent Frey Domingos de Menaja to Rome to plead the cause of the
+Indians before Paul III.; who having heard _both sides_, pronounced that
+"The Indians of America are men of rational soul, of the same nature and
+species as all others, capable of the sacraments of the holy church, and
+consequently free by nature, and lords of their own actions."]
+
+When we entered the room where the savages are lodged, most of them were
+lying in mats on the floor; some on their faces, and some on their
+backs. Three of the women were suckling their infants, and these were
+dressed only in coarse cotton petticoats; the rest of the females had
+cotton frocks, the men shirts and trousers, given them on their arrival
+here. As they are usually naked in the woods, their garments seemed to
+sit uneasily on them: their usual motions seemed slow and lazy; but when
+roused, there was a springy activity hardly fitting a human being, in
+all they did. They begged for money; and when we took out a few vintems,
+the women crowded round me, and pinched me gently to attract my
+attention. They had learned a few words of Portuguese, which they
+addressed to us, but discoursed together in their own tongue, which
+seemed like a series of half-articulate sounds.
+
+They had brought some of their bows and arrows with them of the rudest
+construction. The bow is of hard wood, with only two notches for the
+string. The arrows are of cane; some are pointed only with hard wood,
+others with a flat bit of cane tied with bark to the end of the hard
+wood: these arrows are five feet long; and I saw one of them penetrate
+several inches into the trunk of a tree, when shot by an Indian from his
+bow. I purchased one bow and two arrows. Most of these people had their
+hair closely clipped, excepting a tuft on the fore part of the head; and
+the men, who had slit their lips, had also pulled out their beards. The
+two handsome lads had cut their hair; but they had neither cut their
+lips nor pulled their beards. I tried to learn if this was a step
+towards civilisation, or if it was only that they had not reached the
+age when the ceremony of lip-slitting, &c. is practised, the interpreter
+attending them not being able to explain any thing but what concerns
+their commonest wants and actions.
+
+_September 9th._--I took two very fine Brazilian boys, who are about to
+enter the Imperial naval service, to spend the day at the botanical
+garden, which appears in much better order than when I saw it two years
+ago. The hedge-rows of the Bencoolen nut (_Vernilzia Montana_) are
+prodigiously grown: the Norfolk Island pine has shot up like a young
+giant, and I was glad to find many of the indigenous trees had been
+placed here; such as the _Andraguoa_, the nut of which is the strongest
+known purge; the _Cambuc�_, whose fruit, as large as a russet apple, has
+the sub-acid taste of the gooseberry, to which its pulp bears a strong
+resemblance; the _Japatec-caba_, whose fruit is scarcely inferior to the
+damascene; and the _Grumachama_, whence a liquor, as good as that from
+cherries, is made: these three last are like laurels, and as beautiful
+as they are useful. I took my young friends to see the powder-mills,
+which are not now at work, being under repair; but they learned the
+manner of making powder, from the first weighing of the ingredients to
+the filling cartridges: and then we had our table spread in a pleasant
+part of the garden, under the shade of a jumbu tree, and made the head
+gardener, a very ingenious Dutchman, partake of our luncheon; which
+being over, he showed us the cinnamon they have barked here, and the
+other specimens of spice: the cloves are very fine, and the cinnamon
+might be so; but the wood they have barked is generally too old, and
+they have not yet the method of stripping the twigs: this I endeavoured
+to explain, as I had seen it practised in Ceylon. The camphor tree grows
+very well here, but I do not know if the gum has ever been collected.
+The two boys were highly delighted with their jaunt, and I not less so.
+Poor things! they are entering on a hard service; and God knows whether
+the two cousins da Costa may not hereafter look back to this day passed
+with a stranger, as a bright "spot of azure in a stormy sky."
+
+_Sept. 13th_.--I rode again to the botanic gardens with Mr. Hoste and
+Mr. Hately. Our chief object this time was the powder-mills. After
+walking round the garden, we proceeded along the valley of the mills;
+and so beautiful and sequestered a place, in the bosom of the mountains,
+was surely never before chosen as a manufactory for so destructive an
+article: I suppose the great command of water for the machinery is the
+chief inducement to fix it here. The powder is mixed by pounding, the
+mortars being of rosewood, and the pestles of the same shod with copper;
+yet the mortar-hoops are iron, which seems to me to be a strange
+oversight. I do not understand these things, however; but the machinery
+interested me: it is extremely simple, and the timber used in the
+construction very beautiful. The principal mill blew up a few months
+since, and is now under repair; so that we had an opportunity of seeing
+the watercourses, dams, wheels, &c., which we could not otherwise have
+enjoyed. We could not learn the relative strength of the powder. I have
+heard, however, that it is good. What I have seen is about as fine in
+grain as what we call priming powder in the navy. While we were walking
+about we were invited into several houses, by the overseers and other
+persons employed in the works, and pressed to eat and drink with great
+hospitality. The greatest liberality to strangers, indeed, exists in all
+public establishments here. For instance, at the botanic garden there is
+a constant nursery of the rare and the useful plants, which are given
+away, on application, to strangers and natives alike; so that not only
+the gardens of Brazil are stocked with the rarer productions of the
+East, but they are carried to different countries in Europe, prepared by
+this cooler climate for their farther transplantation.
+
+_14th_.--I observed on the beach to-day a line of red sandy-looking
+matter, extending all along the shore, and tinging the sea for several
+feet from the edge. At night this red edge became luminous; and I now
+recollect when on the passage to India in 1809, that on observing a
+peculiar luminous appearance of the sea, we took up a bucket of water,
+and on examining it next morning, we observed a similar red grainy
+substance floating in it. It is the first time I have seen it here, and
+I cannot find that any body has paid any attention to it. Perhaps it is
+not worth noticing; but I am so much alone, that I have grown more and
+more alive to all the appearances of inanimate nature. Besides, I must
+make much of the country, as in a few days I have to take up my abode in
+one of the narrow close streets of Rio; and this not from choice. It is
+the custom here, and a very natural and pleasant one it is, for every
+family that can, to live in the country all the summer: so that the
+houses of every kind, in the country, are in great request. The term for
+which that I live in was hired is expired, and I am therefore obliged to
+leave it. My going to town, perhaps, might be avoided, but there are
+some things I shall probably learn more perfectly by living there; and,
+besides, does not Lord Bacon advise that in order to profit much from
+travel, one should not only move from city to city, "but change his
+lodgings from one end and part of the city to another?"
+
+The last fortnight has been extremely foggy, and rather cold; and we
+have had some fierce thunder-storms, that seem almost to rock the
+mountains, and threaten to bring them down upon us.
+
+_16th_.--At length I am fixed in No. 79., Rua dos Pescadores, in the
+first floor of an excellent house, belonging to my kind friend Dr.
+Dickson, who himself inhabits a villa out of town; where he has a farm,
+a garden, a collection of minerals and insects, and all sorts of
+agreeable and profitable things, which he dispenses to others with the
+greatest good-nature. I am obliged to Sir Thomas Hardy for a pleasant
+passage to town from Botafogo, his carriage conveying me, and his boats
+my goods: so in a few hours I have changed my home, and have probably
+taken my leave of all English society, every body has such a dread of
+the heat of the town. However, as I look forward to going to England in
+a few months, perhaps in a few weeks, the more time I have for Brazil
+the better. My private affairs have so occupied me that I have scarcely
+had time to think of the public. Yet in the course of the last week the
+project of the constitution for Brazil, framed by the committee
+appointed, was sent from the Assembly to the Emperor; and yesterday the
+discussion of it, article by article, began in the full assembly.
+
+_17th_.--One advantage has already arisen from my removal into town. I
+have received the very first news of the arrival of a ship from Lisbon
+with commissioners on the part of the King to the Emperor. I find, too,
+that at Lisbon they can publish false news, as well as in some other
+countries in Europe. That city had illuminated in consequence of news
+that Lord Cochrane had been beaten, and the Imperial navy destroyed by
+the Bahia squadron; and this illumination must have taken place just
+about the time that Madeira was evacuating the city, and flying before
+the Imperial Admiral's flag. As to the reception the commissioners are
+to meet with, it is doubtful. Some days since the brig 3� de Maio
+arrived here, having on board Luiz Paolino as successor to Madeira; who,
+finding he could not get into Bahia, came hither, to present, it is
+said, his commission as governor of Bahia to His Imperial Majesty as
+Prince Regent; and it is also said that he was the bearer of some
+letters. But as none of these acknowledged the title, or independence of
+the empire of Brazil, they were not received; and the vessel has
+already sailed on her return to Lisbon. It is believed that the same
+fate will attend the present commissioners, Vieira and his colleague, if
+indeed the ship should not be condemned as a prize. But hitherto of
+course nothing is known.
+
+Another vessel also arrived with intelligence of some moment from Buenos
+Ayres. It appears that the captain of His Majesty's ship Brazen has been
+at variance with the authorities there concerning the old subject of the
+right of boarding vessels, the priority of which the Buenos Ayrians
+claim for their own health-boat. The Commodore means to go thither
+himself on the business, and I have no doubt all will be well and
+reasonably settled.
+
+_18th_.--I went to-day to the public library to ask about some books,
+and am invited to go and use what I like there: the librarians are all
+extremely polite, and the library is open to all persons for six hours
+daily.
+
+I have also walked a great deal about the town, and have again visited
+the arsenals; in which very great improvements have been made and are
+making, particularly building sheds for the workmen. After an English
+arsenal, to be sure, the want of machinery and all the luxuries of
+labour is conspicuous; but the work is well done, and reminds me of that
+I used to see under the old Parsee builder in Bombay. They are laying
+down new ships and repairing old ones. I only wish they could form a
+nursery for seamen, because Brazil must have ships to guard her coasts.
+Fisheries off the Abrolhos, and from St. Catherine's, might perhaps do
+something towards it. From the arsenal I climbed the hill immediately
+overlooking it, where there is the convent of San Bento; where, it is
+said, there is a good library, but it is not accessible to women. The
+situation of the convent is delightful, overlooking both divisions of
+the harbour and the whole town, and the hills many a mile beyond. I am
+not sure whether a cloister or a prison, commanding a fine view, be
+preferable to one without. Whether the gazing on a beautiful scene be in
+itself a pleasure great enough to alleviate confinement; or whether it
+does not increase the longing for liberty in a way analogous to that in
+which a well-remembered air creates a longing, even to death, for the
+home where that air was first heard;--it seems to me as if, once
+imprisoned, I would break every association with liberty, and keep my
+eyes from wandering where my limbs must no longer bear me. However, I do
+suppose some may be, and some have been, happy in a cloister. I cannot
+envy them; I would fain not despise them.
+
+_September 19th_.--Our little English world at Rio is grieving in one
+common mourning for the death of one of the youngest, and certainly the
+loveliest, of our countrywomen here. Beautiful and gay, and the lately
+married and cherished wife of a most worthy man, Mrs. N. died a short
+time after the birth of her first child. She had appeared to be
+recovering well; she relapsed and died. It is one of those events that
+excites sympathy in the hardest, and commiseration in the coldest.
+
+_23d_.--I have been unwell again--but I find that staying at home does
+not cure me; so I went both yesterday and to-day to the library, where a
+pleasant, cool, little cabinet has been assigned to me, where whatever
+book I ask for is brought to me, and where I have pen, ink, and paper
+always placed to make notes. This is a kindness and attention to a woman
+and a stranger that I was hardly prepared for. The library was brought
+hither from Lisbon in 1810, and placed in its present situation, which
+was once the hospital belonging to the Carmelites. That hospital was
+removed to a healthier and more commodious situation, and the rooms,
+admirably adapted to the purpose, received the books, of which there are
+between sixty and seventy thousand volumes. The greater number are books
+of theology and law. There is a great deal of ecclesiastical history,
+and particularly all the Jesuits' accounts of South America. General and
+civil history are not wanting; and there are good editions of the
+classics. There are some fine works on natural history; but, excepting
+these, nothing modern; scarcely a book having been bought for sixty
+years. But a noble addition was made to the establishment by the
+purchase of the Conde de Barca's library; in which there are some
+valuable modern works, and a very fine collection of topographical
+prints of all parts of the world.
+
+I have begun to read diligently every scrap of Brazilian history I can
+find; and I have commenced by a collection of pamphlets, newspapers,
+some MS. letters and proclamations, from the year 1576 to 1757, bound up
+together[124]; some of these tracts Mr. Southey mentions, others he
+probably had not seen, but they contain nothing very material that he
+has not in his history. This morning's study of Brazilian history in the
+original language is one great advantage I derive from my removal into
+town. Besides which, I speak now less English than Portuguese.
+
+[Note 124: To this collection is a printed and engraved title-page,
+as follows: "Noticias Historicas e Militares da America Collegidas por
+Diogo Barboso Machado Abbade da Igreja de Santo Adriano de Sever, e
+Academico da Academia Real. Comprehende do Anno de 1579 at� 1757." It
+contains twenty-four pamphlets, &c. The Abbade Machado's name is in
+almost all the historical books I have yet seen in the library. I know
+not how the collection of the author of the Bibliotheca Lusitania became
+part of the royal library.]
+
+_24th_.--Having now received the portrait which Mr. Erle, an ingenious
+young English artist, has been painting of the Senhora Alerez Dona Maria
+de Jesus, I took it to show it to her friend and patron, Jose Bonifacio
+de Andrada e Silva.
+
+I never spend half an hour any where with more pleasure and profit than
+with the ex-minister's family. His lady is of Irish parentage, an
+O'Leary, a most amiable and kind woman, and truly appreciating the worth
+and talent of her husband; and all the nephews and other relations I
+meet there appear superior in education and understanding to the
+generality of persons I see. But it is Jose Bonifacio himself who
+attracts and interests me most. He is a small man, with a thin lively
+countenance; and his manner and conversation at once impress the
+beholder with the idea of that restless activity of mind which
+
+    "O'er-informs its tenement of clay,"
+
+and is but too likely to wear out the body that contains it. The first
+time I saw him in private was after he ceased to be minister, his
+occupations before that time leaving him little leisure for private
+society. I was curious to see the retreat of a public man. I found him
+surrounded by young people and children, some of whom he took on his
+knee and caressed; and I could easily see that he was very popular among
+the small people. To me, as a stranger, he was most ceremoniously yet
+kindly polite, and conversed on all subjects and of all countries. He
+has visited most of those of Europe.
+
+His library is well stored with books in all languages. The collection
+on chemistry and on mining is particularly extensive, and rich in
+Swedish and German authors. These, indeed, are subjects peculiarly
+interesting to Brazil, and have naturally been of first-rate interest to
+him. But his delight is classical literature; and he is himself a poet
+of no mean order. Perhaps my knowledge of Portuguese does not entitle me
+to judge particularly on the vehicle or language of his poetry; but if
+lofty thoughts, new and beautiful combinations, keen sensibility, and a
+love of beauty and of nature, be essential to poetry, the poems he read
+to me to-day have them all. There is one in particular, on the Creation
+of Woman, glowing as the sun under which it was written, and as pure as
+his light. Perhaps it derived some of its merit from his manner of
+reading it, which, though not what is called fine reading, is full of
+character and intelligence.
+
+To-day, Jose Bonifacio gave me a translation from Meleager, which seems
+to me very beautiful. It was written at Lisbon in 1816, and two or three
+copies printed by one of his friends, and the last of these is now
+mine.[125]
+
+[Note 125:
+
+         _Traduc�[)a]o_.
+
+    J� do ether fugio ventosa inverno,
+    E da florida primavera a hora
+    Purpurea rio: de verde herva mimosa
+    A Terra denegrida se cor�a,
+    Behem os prados j� liquido orvalho,
+    Com que medra[)o] as plantas, e festeja[)o]
+    Os abertos bot[)o]es das novas rosas.
+    Com as asperos sons da frauta rude
+    Folga o Serrano, o Pegureiro folga
+    Com as alvos recentes cabritinhos.
+    J� sulca[)o] Nantas estendidas ondas;
+    E Favonio innocente as velas boja.
+    As Menades, cubertas as cabe�as
+    Da flor d'hera, tres vezes enrolada,
+    Do uvifero Baccho orgias celebra[)o]:
+    A Gera�a[)o] bovina das abelhas
+    Seus trabalhos completa; j'a produzem
+    Formoso mel; nos favos repousados
+    Candida cera multiplica[)o]. Canta[)o]
+    Por toda a parte as sonorosas aves:
+    Nas ondas o Aleya[)o], em torna aos tectos
+    Canta a Andorinha; canta o branco Cysne
+    Na ribanceira, e o Rouxinol no bosque.
+    Se pois as plantas ledas reverdecem;
+    Florece a Terra; o Guardador a frauta
+    Tange, e folga co'as ma�ans folhudas;
+    Se aves gorgeia[)o]; se as abelhas cria[)o];
+    Navega[)o] Nautas; Baccho guia as choros:
+    Porque na[)u] cantar� tambem o Vate
+    A risonha, a formosa Primavera?
+
+]
+
+Let no one say, 'that he is too miserable for any comfort to reach him.
+I am alone, and a widow, and in a foreign land; my health weak, my
+nerves irritable, and having neither wealth nor rank; forced to receive
+obligations painful and discordant with my former habits and prejudices,
+and often meeting with impertinence from those who take advantage of my
+solitary situation: but I am nevertheless sure that I have more
+_half-hours_, I dare not say _hours_, of true enjoyment, and fewer days
+of real misery, than half of those whom the world accounts happy. And I
+thank God, who gave me the temper to feel grief exquisitely, that he at
+the same time gave me an equal capacity for joy. And it is a joy to find
+minds that can understand and communicate with our own; to meet
+occasionally with persons of similar habits of thinking, and who, when
+the business of life rests a while, seek recreation in the same
+pursuits. This delight I do oftener enjoy than I could have hoped, so
+far from cultivated Europe. One or two of my friends are, indeed, like
+costly jewels, not to be worn every day; but there are several of
+sterling metal that even here disarm the ills of this "working-day
+world" of half their sting.
+
+_Sept. 26th, 1823_.--A marriage in high life engages many of the talkers
+of Rio. A fidalgo, an officer distinguished under Beresford, Don
+Francisco----, whose other name I have forgotten, is fortunate enough to
+have obtained one of the loveliest grand-daughters of the Baroness de
+Campos, _Maria de Loreto_; whose extraordinary likeness to our own
+Princess Charlotte of Wales is such, that I am sure no English person
+can have seen her without being struck with it. Here, no unmarried women
+are allowed to be present at a marriage; but the ceremony is performed
+in the presence of the nearest relations, being married, on both sides.
+The mother of the bride sends notice to court, if she be of rank to do
+so, afterwards to other ladies, according to their degree, of the
+marriage of her daughter. The bride then goes to court; after which the
+ladies visit her, and proceed to congratulate the other members of the
+family. It is said this match is one in which the lawful lord of such
+things, i.e. Master Cupid, has had more to do than he is usually allowed
+to have in Brazil, even since it was independent; and truly a handsomer
+couple will not often be seen. I am glad of it. Surely free choice on
+such an important subject is as much to be desired as on any other. On
+this occasion,
+
+    "The god of love, who stood to spy them,
+    The god of love, who must be nigh them,
+    Pleased and tickled at the sight,
+    Sneezed aloud; and at his right
+    The little loves that waited by,
+    Bow'd and bless'd the augury;"
+
+as my favourite Cowley says; and I hope we shall have more such free
+matches in our free Brazil, where, hitherto, the course of true love is
+apt not to run smooth, that is, if my informants on the subject are in
+the right. Seriously, perhaps there has not hitherto been refinement
+enough for the delicate metaphysical love of Europe; which, because it
+is more rational, more noble, than all others, is less easily turned
+aside into other channels. Grandison or Clarissa could not have been
+written here; but I think ere long we may look for the polish and
+prudent morals of Belinda.
+
+_Sept. 29th_.--I went to the orphan asylum, which is also the foundling
+hospital. The orphan boys are apprenticed at a proper age. The girls
+have a portion of 200 milrees; which, though little, assists in their
+establishment, and is often eked out from other funds. The house is
+exceedingly clean, and so are the beds for the foundling children, only
+three of whom are now in-door nurslings, the rest being placed out in
+the country. Till lately they have died in a proportion frightful
+compared with their numbers.[126] Within little more than nine years,
+10,000 children have been received: these were placed out at nurse, and
+many were never accounted for. Not perhaps that they all died, because
+the temptation of retaining a mulatto child as a slave, would most
+likely secure care of its life; but the white ones had not even this
+chance of safety. Besides, the wages paid for the nursing of each was
+formerly so little, that the poor creatures who received them could
+hardly have afforded them the means of subsistence. A partial amendment
+has taken place, and still greater improvements are about to be made.
+There is a great want of medical treatment. Many of the foundlings are
+placed in the wheel[127], full of disease, fever, or more often a
+dreadful species of itch called sarna, and which is often fatal to them.
+Nay, dead children are also brought, that they may be decently interred.
+
+[Note 126: See the Emperor's speech on the 3d May.]
+
+[Note 127: A wheel or revolving box, like that at a convent, into
+which the infants are put.]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+From the asylum, I crossed the street to the great hospital of the
+Misericordia. It is a fine building, and has plenty of room; but it is
+not in so good a state as might be wished: there are usually four
+hundred patients, and the number of deaths very great; but I could not
+learn the exact proportion. The medical department is in great want of
+reform. The insane ward interested me most of all: it is on the ground
+floor, very cold and damp; and most of those placed in it die speedily
+of consumptive complaints. I found here a contradiction to the vulgar
+opinion, that hydrophobia is not known in Brazil. A poor negro had been
+bitten by a mad dog a month ago; he did not seem very ill till yesterday
+morning, when he was sent here. He was at the grate of his cell as we
+passed him, in a deplorable state: knowing the gentleman who was with
+me, he had hoped he would release him from confinement; this of course
+could not be: he expired a few hours after we saw him. The burial-ground
+of the Misericordia is so much too small as to be exceedingly
+disgusting, and, I should imagine, unwholesome for the neighbourhood. I
+had long wished to do what I have done to-day. I think the more persons
+that show an interest in such establishments the better: it fixes
+attention upon them; and that of itself must do good. Yet my courage had
+hitherto failed, and I owe the excursion of this morning to accident
+rather than design.
+
+I rode this evening to the protestant burial-ground, at the Praya de
+Gamboa. I think it one of the loveliest spots I ever beheld, commanding
+beautiful views every way. It slopes gradually towards the road along
+the shore: at the highest point there is a pretty building, consisting
+of three chambers; one serves as a place of meeting or waiting for the
+clergyman occasionally; one as a repository for the mournful furniture
+of the grave; and the largest, which is between the other two, is
+generally occupied by the body of the dead for the few hours, it may be
+a day and a night, which can in this climate elapse between death and
+burial: in front of this are the various stones, and urns, and vain
+memorials we raise to relieve our own sorrow; and between these and the
+road, some magnificent trees. Three sides of this field are fenced by
+rock or wood. Even Crabbe's fanciful and delicate Jane might have
+thought without pain of sleeping here.[128] In my illness I had often
+felt sorry that I had not seen this ground. I am satisfied now; and if
+my still lingering weakness should lay me here, the very, very few who
+may come to see where their friend lies will feel no disgust at the
+prison-house.
+
+[Note 128: See Tales of the Hall.--The Sisters.]
+
+_30th_.--I called at a very agreeable Brazilian lady's house to-day; and
+saw, for the first time in my life, a regular Brazilian _bas-blue_ in
+the person of Dona Maria Clara: she reads a good deal, especially
+philosophy and politics; she is a tolerable botanist, and draws flowers
+exceedingly well; besides, she is what I think it is Miss Edgeworth
+calls "a fetcher and carrier of bays,"--a useful member of society, who,
+without harming herself or others, circulates the necessary literary
+news, and would be invaluable where new authors want puffing, and new
+poems should have the pretty passages pointed out for the advantage of
+literary misses. Here, alas! such kindly offices are confined to
+comparing the rival passages in the Correiro and the Sentinella, or
+advocating the cause of the editor of the Sylpho or the Tamoyo. But, in
+sober earnest, I was delighted to find such a lady. Without arrogating
+much more than is due to the sex, it may claim some small influence over
+the occupations and amusements of home; and the woman who brings books
+instead of cards or private scandal into the domestic circle, is likely
+to promote a more general cultivation, and a more refined taste, in the
+society to which she belongs.
+
+_October 1st, 1823_.--The court and city are in a state of rejoicing.
+Lord Cochrane has secured Maranham for the Emperor. Once more I break in
+on my own rule, and copy part of his letter to me:--
+
+"Maranham, August 12th, 1823.
+
+"My dear Madam,
+
+"You would receive a few lines from me, dated from off Bahia, and also
+from the latitude of Pernambuco, saying briefly what we were about then.
+And now I have to add, that we followed the Portuguese squadron to the
+fifth degree of north latitude, and until only thirteen sail remained
+together out of seventy of their convoy; and then, judging it better for
+the interests of His Imperial Majesty, I hauled the wind for Maranham;
+and I have the pleasure to tell you, that my plan of adding it to the
+empire has had complete success. I ran in with this ship abreast of
+their forts; and having sent a notice of blockade, and intimated that
+the squadron of Bahia and Imperial forces were off the bar, the
+Portuguese flag was hauled down, and every thing went on without
+bloodshed, just as you could wish. We have found here a Portuguese brig
+of war, a schooner, and eight gun-boats; also sixteen merchant vessels,
+and a good deal of property belonging to Portuguese resident in Lisbon,
+deposited in the custom-house. The brig of war late the Infante Don
+Miguel, now the Maranham, is gone down with Grenfell to summon Para,
+where there is a beautiful newly-launched fifty-gun frigate, which I
+have no doubt but he has got before now. Thus, my dear Madam, on my
+return I shall have the pleasure to acquaint His Imperial Majesty, that
+between the extremities of his empire there exists no enemy either on
+shore or afloat. This will probably be within the sixth month from our
+sailing from Rio, and at this moment is actually the case."
+
+Together with this letter, His Lordship has sent me the public papers
+concerning the taking possession of the place for the Emperor, and the
+officer who brought the despatches has obligingly favoured me with
+farther particulars; so that I believe the following to be a correct
+account, as far as it goes, of the whole.
+
+As soon as it was perceived on board the Pedro Primeiro, by the orders
+given by Lord Cochrane for the course of the ship, that he had resolved
+on going to Maranham, the pilots became uneasy on account of the
+dangerous navigation of the coast, and, as they said, the impossibility
+of entering the harbour in so large a ship. I have often felt that there
+was something very captivating in the word _impossible_. The Admiral,
+however, had better motives, and had skill and knowledge to support his
+perseverance; and so on the 26th of July, he entered the bay of San Luis
+de Maranham, under English colours. Seeing a vessel of war off the
+place, he sent a boat on board; and though some of the sailors
+recognised two of the boat's crew, the officer, Mr. Shepherd, performed
+his part so well, that he obtained all the necessary information; and
+the Admiral then went in with his ship, and anchored under fort San
+Francisco. Thence he sent in the following papers to the city.
+
+     "_Address to the Authorities_.
+
+     "The forces of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, having
+     delivered the city and province of Bahia from the enemies of their
+     independence, I, in conformity to the wishes of His Imperial
+     Majesty, am desirous that the fruitful province of Maranham should
+     enjoy a like freedom. I am now come to offer to the unfortunate
+     inhabitants the protection and assistance necessary against the
+     oppression of foreigners, wishing to accomplish their freedom, and
+     to salute them as brethren and as friends. But should there be any
+     who, from vexatious motives, oppose the liberation of this country,
+     such persons may be assured that the naval and military forces
+     which expelled the Portuguese from the South, are ready to draw the
+     sword in the same just cause: and that sword once drawn, the
+     consequences cannot be doubtful. I beg the principal authorities to
+     make known to me their decisions, in order that, in case of
+     opposition, the consequences may not be imputed to the hasty manner
+     in which I set about the work which I must achieve. God keep Your
+     Excellencies many years!--_On board the Pedro Primeiro, 26th July,
+     1823_.
+
+     "_Proclamation_
+
+     "By His Excellency Lord Cochrane, Admiral and Commander-in-Chief of
+     the naval forces of His Imperial Majesty.
+
+     "The port, river, and island of Maranham, the bay of San Jos�, and
+     roads adjacent, are declared to be in a state of blockade, as long
+     as the Portuguese shall exercise the supreme authority there; and
+     all entrance or departure is strictly prohibited, under those pains
+     and penalties authorised by the law of nations against those who
+     violate the rights of belligerents.--_On board the Pedro Primeiro,
+     26th July, 1823_."
+
+These papers were received by the junta of Provisional Government, at
+whose head was the Bishop. There had previously been some movements in
+favour of independence, but they had been over-ruled by the Portuguese
+troops, of whom there were about 300 in the town. The junta of course
+accepted all Lord Cochrane's proposals; the 1st of August was appointed
+as the day for electing a new government under the empire, and the
+intermediate days for taking the oaths to the Emperor, and for embarking
+the Portuguese troops; a step the more necessary, as they had shown a
+disposition to oppose the Brazilians, and had even insulted Captain
+Crosbie and others as they were landing to settle affairs with the
+government. Besides, they were hourly in expectation of a reinforcement
+of 500 men from Lisbon. Meantime the anchorage under Fort Francisco was
+found inconvenient for so large a ship as the Pedro Primeiro, and the
+Admiral took her round the great shoal which forms the other side of the
+harbour, and anchored her between the Ilha do Medo and the main in
+fifteen fathoms water; where he left her, and returned to the town in
+the sloop of war Pambinha, in which vessel he could lie close to the
+city itself. One of his first steps was to substitute Brazilian for
+Portuguese troops, in all situations where soldiers were absolutely
+necessary to keep order; but he did not admit more than a very limited
+number within the walls. He caused all who had been imprisoned on
+account of their political opinions to be liberated; and he sent notices
+to the independent military commanders of C�ara and Piauhy to desist
+from hostilities against Maranham.
+
+On the 27th, Lord Cochrane published the following proclamation:--
+
+"_The High Admiral of Brazil to the Inhabitants of Maranham_.
+
+"The auspicious day is arrived on which the worthy inhabitants of
+Maranham have it in their power to declare at once the independence of
+their country, and their adhesion to, and satisfaction with, their
+patriot monarch, the Emperor Peter I. (son of the august Sovereign Don
+John VI.); under whose protection they enjoy the glorious privileges of
+being free men, of choosing their own constitution, and of making their
+own laws by their representatives assembled to consult on their own
+interests, and in their own country.
+
+"That the glory of such a day should not be darkened by any excess, even
+though proceeding from enthusiasm in the cause we have embraced, must be
+the desire of every honest and thinking citizen. It is not necessary to
+advise such as to their conduct: but, should there be any individuals
+capable of interrupting the public tranquillity on any pretext, let them
+beware! The strictest orders are given for the chastisement of whoever
+shall cause any kind of disorder, according to the degree of the crime.
+To take the necessary oaths, to choose the members of the civil
+government, are acts that should be performed with deliberation: for
+which reason, the first of August is the earliest day which the
+preparation for such solemn ceremonies demands, will permit.--Citizens!
+let us go forward seriously and methodically, without tumult, hurry, or
+confusion; and accomplish the work we have in hand in such a manner as
+shall merit the approbation of His Imperial Majesty, and shall give us
+neither cause for repentance, nor room for amendment. Viva, our Emperor!
+Viva, the independence and constitution of Brazil!--_On board the Pedro
+Primeiro, 27th July, 1823_.
+
+COCHRANE."
+
+On the 28th, the junta of government, the camara of the town, the
+citizens and soldiers, with Captain Crosbie to represent Lord Cochrane,
+who was not well enough to attend, assembled to proclaim the
+independence of Brazil, and to swear allegiance to the Emperor, Don
+Pedro de Alcantara; after which there was a firing of the troops, and
+discharge of artillery, and ringing of bells, as is usual on such
+occasions. The public act of fealty was drawn up, and signed by as many
+as could conveniently do so, and the Brazilian flag was hoisted, a flag
+of truce having been flying from the arrival of the Pedro till then.
+
+The next day the inhabitants proceeded to the choice of their new
+provisional government of the province, which was installed on the 8th
+of August, as had been appointed. The members are, Miguel Ignacio dos
+Santos Freire e Bruce, _President_; Louren�o de Castro Belford,
+_Secretary_; and Jos� Joaquim Vieira Belford.
+
+The first act of the new government was to issue a proclamation to the
+inhabitants of the province of Maranham, congratulating them on being no
+longer a nation of slaves to Portugal, but a free people of the empire
+of Brazil; exhorting them to confidence, fidelity, and tranquillity; and
+concluding with vivas to the Roman Catholic religion; to our
+Constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender Don Pedro I., and his
+dynasty; to the Cortes of Brazil, and the people of Maranham.
+
+The letter of the new government to His Imperial Majesty is dated the
+12th of August, when every thing was finally settled. It begins by
+congratulating him on the happy state of things in general in Brazil. It
+then sets forth the wishes of the people of Maranham to have joined
+their brethren long since, but that these wishes had been thwarted by
+the Lisbon troops.--"But what was our joy and transport when
+unexpectedly we saw the ship Pedro Primeiro summoning our port!!! Oh,
+26th of July, 1823! Thrice happy day! thou wilt be as conspicuous in the
+annals of our province, as the sentiments of gratitude and respect
+inspired by the virtues of the illustrious Admiral sent to our aid by
+the best and most amiable of Monarchs will be deeply engraven on our
+hearts and those of our posterity! Yes, august Sire! the wisdom, the
+prudence, and the gentle manners of Lord Cochrane, have contributed
+still more to the happy issue of our political difficulties, than even
+the fear of his forces, however respectable they might be. To anchor in
+our port; to proclaim independence; to administer the proper oaths of
+obedience to Your Imperial Majesty; to suspend hostilities throughout
+the province; to cause a new government to be elected; to bring the
+troops of the country into the town, and then only in sufficient numbers
+for the public order and tranquillity; to open communication between the
+interior and the capital; to provide it with necessaries; and to restore
+navigation and commerce to their pristine state: all this, SIRE, was the
+work of a few days. Grant, Heaven, that this noble Chief may end the
+glorious career of his political and military labours with the like
+felicity and success; and that Your Imperial Majesty being so well
+served, nothing more may be necessary to immortalise that admirable
+commander, not only in the annals of Brazil, but in those of the whole
+world!"
+
+And this, I think, is all of importance that I have learned with regard
+to the capture of Maranham to-day. It is true, the brig Maria,
+despatched by His Lordship on the 12th of August, only arrived to-day;
+so that much may be behind.
+
+_2d October_.--A friend who was present at the Assembly to-day gives me
+the following account of the debate.--In the first place, the Emperor
+sent notice of Lord Cochrane's success at Maranham; and Martim Francisco
+Ribiero de Andrada rose and proposed a vote of thanks to His Lordship.
+The deputy Montezuma (of Bahia) opposed this, on the ground that he was
+the servant of the executive government, and the government ought to
+thank him. He felt as grateful to Lord Cochrane as any member of the
+Assembly could do, and would do as much to prove his gratitude; but he
+would not vote to thank him there. Dr. Fran�a (known by the nickname of
+Franzinho) seconded Montezuma, and said it derogated from the dignity of
+the legislative assembly of the vast, and noble, and rich empire of
+Brazil, to vote thanks to any individual. On which Costa Barros, in a
+speech of eloquence and enthusiasm, maintained the propriety of thanking
+Lord Cochrane. That the triumphal road, as in ancient Rome, did not now
+exist; but the triumph might be granted by the voice of the national
+representatives. The gentleman who thought no thanks should be voted
+was a member for Bahia, and talked of his gratitude. He could tell him,
+that grateful as he (Costa Barros) now felt, were he, like that
+gentleman, a member for Bahia, his gratitude, and his eagerness to
+express it, would be tenfold. Who but Lord Cochrane had delivered Bahia
+from the Portuguese, that swarm of drones that threatened to devour the
+land? But he supposed the greatness of Sen. Montezuma's gratitude was
+such, that it smothered the expression. This produced a laugh, and that
+a challenge, and then a cry of "order, order" (_a ordem_).
+
+Sen. Ribiero de Andrada then said, that as to the observation that had
+fallen from Fran�a, that His Lordship had only done his duty, was no man
+to be thanked for doing an important duty? Besides, though the blockade
+of Bahia was a duty, the reduction of Maranham was something more--it
+was undertaken on his own judgment, and at the risk of consequences to
+himself. Sen. Lisboa observed, that as to its being beneath the dignity
+of the Representative Assembly of Brazil to thank an individual, the
+English Parliament scrupled not to thank its naval and military chiefs;
+and could what it did be beneath the Assembly of Brazil? Would to God
+the Assembly might one day emulate the British Parliament!
+
+After this there was more sparring between Montezuma and Costa Barros:
+the former resuming the subject of the challenge; Barros bowing, and
+assuring him he did not refuse it: on which a member on the same side
+observed sarcastically, only half rising as he spoke, that those who
+meant really to fight would hardly speak it aloud in the _General
+Assembly_. This ended the dispute; and the vote of thanks was carried
+with only the voices of Montezuma and Fran�a against it; and so passed
+this day's session.
+
+I must say for the people here, that they do seem sensible that in Lord
+Cochrane they have obtained a treasure. * * * * That there are some who
+find fault, and some who envy, is very true. But when was it otherwise?
+Sometimes I cry,
+
+    "O, what a world is this, where what is comely
+    Envenoms him that bears it!"
+
+At others, I take it more easily, and say coolly with the Spaniard,
+
+    "Envy was honour's wife, the wise man said,
+    Ne'er to be parted till the man was dead:"
+
+and neither envy, nor any other injurious feeling, nor all the
+manifestations of them all together, can ever lessen the real merit of
+so great a man.
+
+The acquisition of Maranham is exceedingly important to the empire: it
+is one of the provinces that, from the time of its first settlement, has
+carried on the greatest foreign trade.[129]
+
+[Note 129: See the Appendix.]
+
+_6th_.--We had three days of public rejoicing, on account of the taking
+of Maranham; and on Friday, as I happened to be at the palace to show
+some drawings to the Empress, I perceived that the Emperor's levee was
+unusually crowded. During these few days, though I have been far from
+well, I have improved my acquaintance with my foreign friends; but of
+English I see, and wish to see, very little of any body but Mrs. May.
+
+_9th_.--I resolved to take a holiday: so went to spend it with Mrs. May,
+at the Gloria, only going first for half an hour to the library. That
+library is a great source of comfort to me: I every day find my cabinet
+quiet and cool, and provided with the means of study, and generally
+spend four hours there, reading Portuguese and Brazilian history; for
+which I shall not, probably, have so good an opportunity again.
+
+This day the debate in the Assembly has been most interesting. It is
+some time since, in discussing that part of the proposed constitution,
+which treats of the persons who are to be considered as Brazilians,
+entitled to the protection of the laws of the empire, and amenable to
+those laws, the 8th paragraph of the 5th article was admitted without a
+dissentient voice: it is this--"_All naturalised strangers, whatever be
+their religion_." To-day the 3d paragraph of the 7th article came under
+discussion. This article treats of the individual rights of Brazilians;
+it runs thus--"The constitution guarantees to all Brazilians the
+following individual rights, with the explanations and limitations
+thereafter expressed:--
+
+"I. Personal Freedom.
+II. Trial by Jury.
+III. Religious Freedom.
+IV. Professional Freedom.
+V. Inviolability of Property.
+VI. Liberty of the Press."
+
+The 14th article goes on to state, that all Christians may enjoy the
+political rights of the empire: 15th, "Other religions are hardly
+tolerated, and none but Christians shall enjoy political rights;" and
+the 16th declares the Roman Catholic religion to be that of the state,
+and the only one beneficed by the state.
+
+Now this day's discussion was not merely one of form; but it has
+established toleration in all its extent. A man is at liberty to
+exercise his faith as he pleases, and even to change it: should he,
+indeed, have the folly to turn Turk, he must not vote at elections, nor
+be a member of the Assembly, nor enjoy an office in the state, civil or
+military; but he may sit under his vine and his fig-tree, and exercise
+an honest calling. All Christians are eligible to all offices and
+employments; and I only wish older countries would deign to take lessons
+from this new government in its noble liberality. The Diario of the
+Assembly is so far behind with the reports of the sessions, that I have
+not, of course, a correct account of the speeches; but I believe that I
+am not wrong in attributing to the Bishop the most benevolent and
+enlightened views on this momentous subject, together with that laudable
+attachment to the church of his fathers that belongs to good men of
+every creed.
+
+_October 12th_.--This is the Emperor's birth-day, and the first
+anniversary of the coronation. I was curious to see the court of Brazil;
+so I rose early and dressed myself, and went to the royal chapel, where
+the Emperor and Empress, and the Imperial Princess were to be with the
+court before the drawing-room. I accordingly applied to the chaplain
+for a station, who showed me into what is called the _diplomatic_
+tribune, but it is in fact for respectable foreigners: there I met all
+manner of consuls. However, the curiosity which led me to the chapel
+would not allow me to go home when the said consuls did; so I went to
+the drawing-room, which perhaps, after all, I should not have done,
+being quite alone, had not the gracious manner in which their Imperial
+Majesties saluted me, both in the chapel and afterwards in the corridor
+leading to the royal apartments, induced me to proceed. I reached the
+inner room where the ladies were, just as the Emperor had, with a most
+pleasing compliment, announced to Lady Cochrane that she was Marchioness
+of Maranham; for that he had made her husband Marques, and had conferred
+on him the highest degree of the order of the Cruceiro. I am sometimes
+absent; and now, when I ought to have been most attentive, I felt myself
+in the situation Sancho Pan�a so humorously describes, of sending my
+wits wool-gathering, and coming home shorn myself: for I was so intent
+on the honour conferred on my friend and countryman; so charmed, that
+for once his services had been appreciated,--that when I found the
+Emperor in the middle of the room, and that his hand was extended
+towards me, and that all others had paid their compliments and passed to
+their places, I forgot I had my glove on, took his Imperial hand with
+that glove, and I suppose kissed it much in earnest, for I saw some of
+the ladies smile before I remembered any thing about it. Had this
+happened with regard to any other prince, I believe that I should have
+run away; but nobody is more good-natured than Don Pedro: I saw there
+was no harm done; and so determining to be on my guard when the Empress
+came in, and then to take an opportunity of telling her of my fault, I
+stayed quietly, and began talking to two or three young ladies who were
+at court for the first time, and had just received their appointment as
+ladies of honour to the Empress.
+
+Her Majesty, who had retired with the young Princess, now came in, and
+the ladies all paid their compliments while the Emperor was busy in the
+presence-chamber receiving the compliments of the Assembly and other
+public bodies. There was little form and no stiffness. Her Imperial
+Majesty conversed easily with every body, only telling us all to speak
+Portuguese, which of course we did. She talked a good deal to me about
+English authors, and especially of the Scotch novels, and very kindly
+helped me in my Portuguese; which, though I now understand, I have few
+opportunities of speaking to cultivated persons. If I have been pleased
+with her before, I was charmed with her now. When the Emperor had
+received the public bodies, he came and led the Empress into the great
+receiving room, and there, both of them standing on the upper step of
+the throne, they had their hands kissed by naval, military, and civil
+officers, and private men; thousands, I should think, thus passed. It
+was curious, but it pleased me, to see some negro officers take the
+small white hand of the Empress in their clumsy black hands, and apply
+their pouting African lips to so delicate a skin; but they looked up to
+_Nosso Emperador_, and to her, with a reverence that seemed to me a
+promise of faith _from them_, a bond of kindness _to_ them. The Emperor
+was dressed in a very rich military uniform, the Empress in a white
+dress embroidered with gold, a corresponding cap with feathers tipped
+with green; and her diamonds were superb, her head-tire and ear-rings
+having in them opals such as I suppose the world does not contain, and
+the brilliants surrounding the Emperor's picture, which she wears, the
+largest I have seen.
+
+I should do wrong not to mention the ladies of the court. My partial
+eyes preferred my pretty countrywoman the new Marchioness; but there
+were the sweet young bride Maria de Loreto, and a number of others of
+most engaging appearance; and then there were the jewels of the
+Baronessa de Campos, and those of the Visconde�a do Rio Seco, only
+inferior to those of the Empress: but I cannot enumerate all the riches,
+or beauty; nor would it entertain my English friends, for whom this
+journal is written, if I could.
+
+When their Imperial Majesties came out of the great room, I saw Madame
+do Rio Seco in earnest conversation with them; and soon I saw her and
+Lady Cochrane kissing hands, and found they had both been appointed
+honorary ladies of the Empress; and then the Viscountess told me she had
+been speaking to the Empress about me. This astonished me, for I had no
+thought of engaging in any thing away from England. Six months before,
+indeed, I had said that I was so pleased with the little Princess, that
+I should like to educate her. This, which I thought no more of at the
+time, was, like every thing in this gossiping place, told to Sir T.
+Hardy: he spoke of it to me, and said he had already mentioned it to a
+friend of mine. I said, that if the Emperor and Empress chose, as a warm
+climate agreed with me, I should not dislike it; that it required
+consideration; and that if I could render myself sufficiently agreeable
+to the Empress, I should ask the appointment of governess to the
+Princess; and so matters stood when Sir Thomas Hardy sailed for Buenos
+Ayres. I own that the more I saw of the Imperial family, the more I
+wished to belong to it; but I was frightened at the thoughts of Rio, by
+the impertinent behaviour of some of the English, so that I should
+probably not have proposed the thing myself. It was done, however: the
+Empress told me to apply to the Emperor. I observed he looked tired with
+the levee, and begged to be allowed to write to her another day. She
+said, "Write if you please, but come and see the Emperor at five o'clock
+to-morrow." And so they went out, and I remained marvelling at the
+chance that had brought me into a situation so unlike any thing I had
+ever contemplated; and came home to write a letter to Her Imperial
+Majesty, and to wonder what I should do next.
+
+_Monday, October 13th._--I wrote my letter to the Empress, and was
+punctual to the time for seeing the Emperor. He received me very kindly,
+and sent me to speak to Her Imperial Majesty, who took my letter, and
+promised me an answer in two days, adding the most obliging expressions
+of personal kindness. And this was certainly the first letter I ever
+wrote on the subject; though my English _friends_ tell me that I had a
+memorial in my hand yesterday, and that I went to court only to deliver
+it, for they saw it in my hand. Now I had a white pocket-handkerchief
+and a black fan in my hand, and thought as little of speaking about my
+own affairs to their Imperial Majesties, as of making a voyage to the
+moon. But people will always know each other's affairs best.
+
+_16th._--I have continued going regularly to the library, and have
+become acquainted with the principal librarian, who is also the
+Emperor's confessor. He is a polished and well-informed man. He showed
+me the Conde da Barca's library, which, as I knew before, had been
+purchased at the price of 15,530,900 rees, and added to the public
+collection. To-day, on returning from my study I received a letter from
+the Empress, written in English, full of kind expressions; and in the
+pleasantest manner accepting, in the Emperor's name and her own, my
+services as governess to her daughter; and giving me leave to go to
+England, before I entered on my employment, as the Princess is still so
+young.
+
+I went to San Cristova[)o] to return thanks.
+
+_19th._--I saw the Empress, who is pleased to allow me to sail for
+England in the packet, the day after to-morrow. I confess I am sorry to
+go before Lord Cochrane's return. I had set my heart on seeing my best
+friend in this country, after his exertions and triumph. But I have now
+put my hand to the plough, and I must not turn back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_October 21st._--I embarked on board the packet for England. Mrs. May
+walked to the shore with me. Sir Murray Maxwell lent me his boats to
+bring myself and goods on board. I had previously taken leave of every
+body I knew, English and foreign.
+
+After I embarked, Mr. Anderson brought me the latest newspapers. The
+following are the principal ones published in Rio:--The DIARIO DA
+ASSEMBLEA, which contains nothing but the proceedings of the Assembly;
+it appears as fast as the short-hand writers can publish it. The
+GOVERNMENT GAZETTE, which has all official articles, appointments, naval
+intelligence, and sometimes a few advertisements. The DIARIO DO RIO,
+which has nothing but advertisements, and ship news, and prices current;
+it used to print a meteorological table. The CORREIRO, a democratic
+journal, which the editor wrote from prison, only occasionally for some
+time, but lately it has been a daily paper. The SENTINELA DA LIBERDAD E
+A BEIRA DO MAR DA PRAYA GRANDE is edited by a Genoese, assisted by one
+of the deputies, and is said to be pure _carbonarism_. The SYLPHO, also
+an occasional paper, moderately ministerial, and engaged in a war of
+words with several others. The ATALAIA, an advocate for limited
+monarchy, whose editor is a deputy of considerable reputation, is
+another occasional paper; as is also the TAMOYO, entirely devoted to the
+Andradas: it is, in my opinion, the best-written of all. The SENTINELA
+DA PA[)O]N D'ASUCAR is on the same side; its editor formerly published the
+_Regulador_, but this has ceased to appear since the change of ministry.
+The _Espelho_ was a government paper; but the writer has discontinued
+it, having become a member of the Assembly. The _Malaguetta_ was a paper
+whose first number attracted a great deal of attention; it fell off
+afterwards, and ceased on the declaration of the independence of Brazil.
+It was remarkable for its hostility to the Andradas. Indeed the war of
+words the author waged against the family was so virulent, that they
+were suspected of being the instigators of an attempt to assassinate
+him. This they indignantly denied, and satisfactorily disproved; and the
+man being almost maniacal with passion, accused any and every person of
+consequence in the state, and conceived himself, even wounded as he
+was, not safe. In vain did all persons, even the Emperor himself, visit
+him, to reassure him; his terrors continued, and he withdrew himself the
+moment he was sufficiently recovered from his wounds. He was by birth a
+Portuguese, and his strong passions had probably rendered him an object
+of hatred or jealousy to some inferior person, the consequences of which
+his vanity made him attribute to a higher source.--I believe there are
+some other occasional papers, but I have not seen them.
+
+_Oct. 25th_.--Happily for me there are no passengers in the packet, and
+still more happily, the captain's wife and daughter are on board; so
+that I feel as if lodging in a quiet English family, all is so decent,
+orderly, and, above all, clean. I am under no restraint, but walk, read,
+write, and draw, as if at home: every body, even to the monkey on board,
+looks kindly at me; and I receive all manner of friendly attention
+consistent with perfect liberty.
+
+_Nov. 1st_.--"The longest way about is often the nearest, way home,"
+says the proverb; and, on that principle, ships bound for England from
+Brazil at this time of the year stand far to the eastward. We are still
+in the latitude of Rio de Janeiro, though in long. 29� W., and shall
+probably stand still nearer to the coast of Africa, before we shall be
+able to look to the northward. To-day the thermometer is at 75�, the
+temperature of the sea 72�.
+
+_9th_.--Lat. 14� 19' S., long. 24� W., thermometer 74�, sea 74-1/2�.
+
+_17th_.--Lat. 5� N., long. 25� W. For several days the thermometer at
+80�; the temperature of the sea at noon 82�. We spoke the Pambinha, 60
+days from Maranham. She says Lord Cochrane had gone himself to Para,
+whence he meant to proceed directly for Rio; so that he would probably
+be there by this time, as the Pedro Primeiro sails well. I had no
+opportunity of learning more, as the vessel passed hastily.
+
+We have, generally speaking, had hot winds from Africa, and there is a
+sultry feel in the air which the state of the thermometer hardly
+accounts for. I perceive that the sails are all tinged with a reddish
+colour; and wherever a rope has chafed upon them, they appear almost as
+if iron-moulded. This the captain and officers attribute to the wind
+from Africa. They were certainly perfectly white long after we left Rio;
+they have not been either furled or unbent. What may be the nature of
+the dust or sand that thus on the wings of the wind crosses so many
+miles of ocean, and stains the canvass? Can it be this minute dust
+affecting the lungs which makes us breathe as if in the sultry hours
+preceding a thunder-storm?
+
+_Dec. 3d_.--We came in sight of St. Mary's, the eastern island of the
+Azores. I much wished to have touched at some of these isles; but this
+is not a good season for doing so, and the winds we have had have been
+unfavourable for the purpose. This afternoon, though near enough to have
+seen at least the face of the land, the weather was thick and rainy, so
+that we saw nothing.
+
+_18th_.--After passing the Azores, a long succession of gales from the
+north-east kept us off the land. These were succeeded by three fine
+days; and the sea, which had been heavy, became smooth. Early the day
+before yesterday, however, it began to blow very hard from the
+northwest; and yesterday morning it changed to a gale from the south and
+south-west, and we lay-to under storm stay-sails, in a tremendous sea.
+About one o'clock the captain called to me, and desired me to come on
+deck and see what could not last ten minutes, and I might never see
+again. I ran up, as did Mrs. and Miss K----. A sudden shift of wind had
+taken place: we saw it before it came up, driving the sea along
+furiously before it; and the meeting of the two winds broke the sea as
+high as any ship's mast-head in a long line, like the breakers on a reef
+of rocks. It was the most beautiful yet fearful sight I ever beheld; and
+the sea was surging over our little vessel so as to threaten to fill
+her: but the hatches were battoned down; we were lying-to on a right
+tack, and a hawser had been passed round the bits in order to sustain
+the foremast, in case we lost our bowsprit, as we expected to do every
+instant. But in twenty minutes the gale moderated, and we bore up for
+Falmouth, which we reached this morning, having passed the cabin deck
+of a ship that doubtless had foundered in the storm of yesterday.--Once
+more I am in England; and, to use the words of a venerable though
+apocryphal writer, "Here will I make an end. And if I have done well,
+and as is fitting the story, it is that which I desired; but if
+slenderly and meanly, it is that which I could attain unto."[130]
+
+M.G.
+
+[Note 130: 2 Maccabees, chap. XV. ver. 37, 38.]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+It will appear from the following TABLES of the Imports and Exports of
+the Province of Maranham, from 1812 to 1821, of how much importance the
+acquisition of that Province is to the Empire of Brazil. Some other
+Tables are added, which may serve to give a clearer idea of the state of
+the country. The amount of the duties on the importation of Slaves, paid
+by Maranham to the treasury at Rio de Janeiro during those ten years,
+was 30,239 milrees.
+
+Nothing is wanting to the prosperity of that fine Province but a steady
+government, and a regular administration of justice. Without these two
+things, it will be in vain to expect either prosperity or tranquillity.
+The people are multiplying too fast to be managed by the former clumsy
+administration; and their intercourse with the rest of the world has
+taught them to wish for something better.
+
+Although there are veins of metal in Maranham, they have never been
+worked; but some saltpetre-works have been established there. There are
+mineral and medicinal waters in some districts; but I believe they have
+not been analyzed: in short, little attention has hitherto been paid to
+any thing but the woods, and the growth of coffee, cotton, and sugar; in
+all of which Maranham is abundantly rich.
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM, FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.
+(Continued below)
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+COUNTRIES WHENCE IMPORTED.|    1812      |    1813      |    1814      |    1815      |    1816      |
+--------------------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|
+                          |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |
+Brazil                    |  244,506,690 |  284,211,812 |  416,508,747 |  284,418,270 |  271,326,160 |
+Portuguese ports in Africa|  146,817,000 |  181,610,811 |  221,219,843 |  371,238,250 |  408,590,000 |
+Lisbon                    |  167,431,350 |  256,407,277 |  417,018,290 |  458,595,340 |  752,051,810 |
+Oporte                    |   69,103,210 |   74,842,710 |   70,429,900 |   98,399,750 |  173,794,080 |
+England                   |  581,682,700 |  654,891,057 |  696,425,620 |  465,997,240 |  550,217,190 |
+Gibraltar                 |   13,848,800 | ------------ |    3,246,400 | ------------ | -----------  |
+United States             |   49,729,600 | ------------ | ------------ |   12,250,600 |   32,906,840 |
+Western Isles             | ------------ |    2,964,400 | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+France                    | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |   60,662,700 |   55,459,000 |
+Holland                   | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+Spain                     | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+Annual amount             |1,273,119,340 |1,454,927,667 |1,824,848,800 |1,751,563,150 |2,244,245,080 |
+Silk Goods Portuguese     |    8,694,300 |    9,836,200 |    8,880,920 |   11,622,780 |   22,217,900 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    6,601,600 |    6,447,500 |   15,647,400 |   22,720,600 |   18,863,200 |
+Linen Goods Portuguese    |   26,832,100 |   22,170,300 |   19,476,800 |   29,872,200 |   50,266,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |   69,031,100 |  125,357,220 |  172,292,860 |   74,989,100 |  162,170,280 |
+Cotton Goods Portuguese   |    3,085,640 |   10,375,730 |   10,859,000 |   21,273,380 |   54,732,250 |
+  Do.  foreign            |  349,295,440 |  324,792,020 |  316,213,050 |  377,886,820 |  444,593,640 |
+Woolen Cloths Portuguese  | ------------ | ------------ |      198,720 |      272,000 |      774,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |   33,487,300 |   39,377,950 |   43,725,900 |   17,259,300 |   50,546,900 |
+Fine Hats Portuguese      |          946 |        2,292 |        4,400 |        3,402 |        5,419 |
+  Do.  foreign            |        4,228 |        5,140 |        8,795 |        3,193 |        7,422 |
+Coarse Hats Portuguese    |       11,689 |        9,623 |        6,225 |        9,424 |       16,380 |
+  Do.  foreign            |        3,774 |        2,735 |        4,976 |       17,836 |       14,555 |
+Clothes and Shoes         |              |              |              |              |              |
+Portuguese                |    2,465,600 |    1,817,600 |    3,054,600 |    3,346,880 |    2,389,100 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    1,232,000 |      500,000 |    2,200,000 |    1,729,200 |    1,080,800 |
+Movables Portuguese       |    4,494,600 |    3,360,000 |    8,700,000 |   10,600,000 |   18,600,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    1,244,700 |    2,734,000 |    1,120,000 |    1,400,000 |    5,000,000 |
+Portuguese brandy Pipes   |           45 |           48 |          139 |          104 |          220 |
+  Do. and Gin, foreign    |           46 |           11 |           20 |           21 |           38 |
+Portuguese Wines          |          745 |          645 |        1,427 |        1,320 |          761 |
+  Do.  foreign            |          247 | ------------ |           81 |            4 |           55 |
+Wheaten Flour, arrobas    |       10,228 |       26,524 |       18,538 |       25,872 |       21,838 |
+Salt Fish, quintals       |          401 |          252 |          296 |          818 |          938 |
+Butter, arrobas           |        5,785 |        4,628 |        4,220 |        5,198 |        4,625 |
+Cheese, arrobas           |        1,179 |          642 |        1,243 |        1,750 |        2,229 |
+Balance in favour of }    | ------------ |  190,867,692 | ------------ |  325,175,700 |1,090,305,135 |
+  Maranham           }    |              |              |              |              |              |
+  Do.  against            |  203,167,456 | ------------ |   30,586,797 | ------------ | ------------ |
+Proceeds of the Customs   |   74,648,957 |   83,963,025 |   83,429,147 |   81,317,345 |  112,633,410 |
+Portuguese Ships arrived  |           52 |           64 |           70 |           69 |           80 |
+  Do.  foreign            |           34 |           29 |           12 |           43 |           58 |
+Total Ships               |           86 |           93 |           82 |          112 |          138 |
+New Slaves from Africa    |          992 |        1,221 |        1,592 |        2,692 |        2,615 |
+  Do.  from Brazil        |          680 |          508 |          394 |          684 |          762 |
+Total Slaves imported }   |        1,672 |        1,729 |        1,986 |        3,376 |        3,377 |
+  in the Year         }   |              |              |              |              |              |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Total Number of Slaves imported, from 1812 to 1821, - - - 45,477.
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM, FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.
+(Continued)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+    1817.     |    1818.     |    1819.     |    1820.     |Mean of first five| Mean of second |    1821.     |
+              |              |              |              |    Years.        |   Five Years.  |              |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------|----------------|--------------|
+    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |      Rees.   |      Rees.       |    Rees.       |    Rees.     |
+  635,642,720 |  687,505,720 |  616,297,520 |  271,501,280 |  300,194,336     |  496,454,680   |  293,618,720 |
+  988,100,000 |  759,320,000 |  934,069,500 |  326,230,200 |  265,895,180     |  685,061,940   |  193,583,790 |
+  743,334,230 |  569,961,450 |  527,062,435 |  474,282,020 |  410,380,813     |  613,338,389   |  331,483,280 |
+  255,289,960 |  149,862,520 |  144,499,960 |  149,927,240 |   97,313,930     |  175,674,752   |  112,652,710 |
+  878,979,730 |  908,004,920 |  562,534,950 |  435,639,960 |  589,842,761     |  667,075,350   |  442,757,290 |
+--------------|--------------|--------------|    9,491,000 |------------------|----------------|--------------|
+   77,940,200 |  108,261,640 |   92,154,390 |   66,430,800 |------------------|   75,538,774   |  116,099,750 |
+--------------|   20,076,200 |   14,947,260 |    7,374,460 |------------------|----------------|    2,325,600 |
+  102,164,290 |  178,041,520 |   75,136,180 |  132,282,730 |------------------|  108,616,744   |   40,091,590 |
+--------------|   13,625,600 |    2,320,000 |   12,091,000 |------------------|----------------|--------------|
+--------------|   17,169,400 |--------------|--------------|------------------|----------------|--------------|
+3,681,451,130 |3,411,828,970 |2,983,022,195 |1,885,250,690 |1,709,760,809     |2,841,179,613   |1,532,612,730 |
+   27,706,200 |   11,797,100 |    6,059,565 |    5,392,360 |   12,250,420     |   14,634,625   |--------------|
+   33,375,120 |   33,161,620 |   13,619,060 |   13,838,600 |   14,056,060     |   22,571,520   |--------------|
+   57,456,520 |   49,855,700 |   23,041,480 |   28,261,380 |   29,723,480     |   41,776,216   |--------------|
+  307,923,950 |  175,888,560 |  111,670,680 |   83,702,900 |  120,768,112     |  168,261,274   |--------------|
+   89,924,400 |   44,665,120 |   49,258,310 |   33,272,580 |   20,065,200     |   54,370,532   |--------------|
+  506,977,320 |  579,338,910 |  359,983,900 |  212,115,710 |  362,556,194     |  420,601,896   |--------------|
+    1,746,000 |      672,000 |      490,000 |      240,000 |------------------|      784,400   |--------------|
+  103,453,400 |   96,565,780 |   55,042,700 |   46,099,960 |   36,879,470     |   70,341,748   |--------------|
+        3,663 |        3,966 |        4,579 |        5,263 |        3,292     |        4,578   |--------------|
+       12,826 |       21,868 |       10,196 |        9,219 |        5,755     |       12,186   |--------------|
+       27,552 |       12,180 |        9,324 |        2,876 |       10,668     |       13,662   |--------------|
+       22,686 |       25,224 |        4,961 |        5,122 |        8,775     |       14,509   |--------------|
+    1,254,440 |    3,347,040 |    7,002,920 |    7,312,400 |    2,614,756     |    4,261,180   |--------------|
+    4,886,400 |    6,934,300 |    3,305,000 |    1,477,000 |    1,348,400     |    3,536,700   |--------------|
+   22,220,000 |   24,240,000 |   23,590,000 |    4,020,000 |    9,150,920     |   18,534,000   |--------------|
+   10,800,000 |   17,400,000 |    6,600,000 |    9,800,000 |    2,298,400     |    9,920,000   |--------------|
+          288 |          265 |          303 |          221 |          111     |          259   |          657 |
+           76 |          109 |          132 |          269 |           27     |          124   |--------------|
+        2,047 |          694 |        1,879 |        2,226 |        1,179     |        1,921   |        1,620 |
+          382 |          442 |           54 |          204 |           77     |          227   |          260 |
+       40,080 |       53,082 |       52,689 |       45,687 |       20,600     |       42,675   |       82,221 |
+        2,237 |        5,786 |        1,799 |        1,669 |          541     |        2,485   |--------------|
+        9,624 |       10,453 |        8,187 |        8,751 |        4,891     |        8,328   |--------------|
+        3,398 |        3,621 |        2,717 |        3,541 |        1,427     |           99   |--------------|
+--------------|  257,858,230 |--------------|  352,145,615 |------------------|1,379,412,568   |--------------|
+  132,588,568 |--------------|  470,596,983 |--------------|------------------|----------------|--------------|
+  150,145,175 |  247,213,751 |  219,786,377 |  158,517,700 |   87,198,376     |  167,659,282   |  115,686,300 |
+           89 |           79 |           80 |           61 |           67     |           77   |           48 |
+           63 |          100 |           57 |           80 |           35     |           71   |           56 |
+          152 |          179 |          137 |          141 |          102     |          149   |          104 |
+        5,797 |        3,377 |        4,784 |        2,381 |        1,822     |        3,790   |        1,718 |
+        2,325 |        3,259 |        1,269 |          483 |          713     |        1,619   |--------------|
+        8,122 |        6,636 |        6,053 |        2,864 |        2,535     |        5,409   |        1,718 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.
+(Continued below)
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-------------------------|
+                                                                 COTTON                                                 |         RICE            |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Y|       |  LISBON      |   OPORTO     |   ENGLAND   |    FRANCE    |    UNITED    | Different  | High    |    TOTAL    |    LISBON   |   OPORTO  |
+E|       |              |              |             |              |    STATES    |    Ports.  |and Low  |             |             |           |
+A|       |              |              |             |              |              |            | Price.  |             |             |           |
+R|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |        3,305 |          562 |       36,523|--------------|         150  |         30 | 2,700 to|       40,570|       47,780|    17,150 |
+8|Arrobas|       17,591 |        2,997 |      196,154|--------------|         827  |        135 |  3,400  |      217,754|      253,890|    90,080 |
+1|Amount |   56,087,050 |    9,298,293 |  598,742,727|--------------|   2,317,787  |    519,925 |         |  666,965,782|  257,719,470| 94,777,080|
+2|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |        8,938 |        1,127 |       50,108|--------------|--------------|------------| 3,000 to|       60,173|       39,728|    21,211 |
+8|Arrobas|       48,003 |        5,960 |      272,730|--------------|--------------|------------|  4,600  |      326,693|      206,787|   112,453 |
+1|Amount |  188,275,184 |   23,515,043 |1,058,815,456|--------------|--------------|------------|         |1,245,605,683|  206,448,300|116,376,750|
+3|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       12,144 |        1,204 |       31,236|         2,087|--------------|------------| 4,100 to|       46,671|       45,615|    24,444 |
+8|Arrobas|       65,045 |        6,351 |      166,459|        10,527|--------------|------------|  5,000  |      248,385|      242,417|   125,747 |
+1|Amount |  401,063,336 |   36,790,539 |  913,032,959|    63,692,999|--------------|------------|         |1,414,579,833|  219,802,820|111,238,700|
+4|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       18,276 |        1,672 |       30,804|--------------|--------------|          5 | 4,400 to|       50,757|       51,161|     20,068|
+8|Arrobas|      100,000 |        8,977 |      168,877|--------------|--------------|         25 |  7,000  |      277,879|      272,607|    104,738|
+1|Amount |  577,330,200 |   50,109,500 |1,077,256,700|--------------|--------------|    160,000 |         |1,704,856,400|  229,406,200| 84,260,500|
+5|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       19,040 |        2,082 |       38,835|         3,570|--------------|------------| 4,500 to|       63,527|       57,585|     24,550|
+8|Arrobas|      105,448 |       10,822 |      214,538|        19,413|--------------|------------|  8,500  |      350,257|      293,787|    123,830|
+1|Amount |  892,691,100 |   93,221,455 |1,857,112,006|   166,226,425|--------------|------------|         |3,003,250,986|  248,658,750| 98,699,085|
+6|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       25,830 |        3,788 |       38,369|         3,145|--------------|------------| 7,000 to|       71,182|       31,804|     19,658|
+8|Arrobas|      144,904 |       20,925 |      218,343|        17,557|--------------|------------| 10,000  |      401,729|      168,565|    103,668|
+1|Amount |1,106,601,700 |  157,833,900 |1,703,908,950|   132,448,300|--------------|------------|         |3,100,792,850|  194,752,275|130,820,437|
+7|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       16,294 |        3,251 |       49,083|         4,899|           33 |         170| 7,000 to|       73,730|       48,252|     25,037|
+8|Arrobas|       88,488 |       18,595 |      267,164|        27,488|          205 |         853|  9,000  |      402,793|      224,263|    133,167|
+1|Amount |  680,206,400 |  145,041,000 |2,083,879,200|   233,313,800|    1,599,000 |   6,658,400|         |3,150,692,800|  260,115,600|158,600,400|
+8|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       16,625 |        2,629 |       40,291|         5,910|--------------|           8| 7,500 to|       65,463|       41,993|     22,934|
+8|Arrobas|       91,074 |       14,212 |      222,623|        31,326|--------------|          45|  8,600  |      359,280|      220,562|    116,184|
+1|Amount |  517,821,500 |    81,745,500|1,333,142,384|   203,052,350|--------------|     238,833|         |2,136,000,537|  201,039,450|104,074,950|
+9|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       12,799 |         2,311|       48,279|         2,915|--------------|         315| 4,900 to|       66,619|       43,034|     21,205|
+8|Arrobas|       67,730 |        12,493|      268,736|        16,502|--------------|       1,732|  5,500  |      367,193|      214,842|    106,764|
+2|Amount |  357,766,700 |    66,169,900|1,406,080,282|    36,508,600|--------------|   9,006,400|         |1,925,531,882|  159,720,609| 79,815,814|
+0|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       10,930 |           873|       26,364|         3,655|--------------|------------| 3,900 to|       41,822|       42,289|     13,391|
+8|Arrobas|       58,836 |         4,592|      143,771|        18,899|--------------|------------|  4,850  |      226,118|      212,824|     68,969|
+2|Amount |  253,675,950 |    18,825,000|  600,658,671|    85,097,600|--------------|------------|         |  958,257,221|  161,116,775| 53,557,814|
+1|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.
+(Continued)
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+        RICE.                     |          TANNED HIDES          |        HIDES                  |       SKINS        |         GUM.         |    SUNDRIES.   |
+                                  |                                |    Dry and Green.             |                    |     _Alqueires_      |                |
+----------------------------------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ Different |High and  |  Total    ||Lisbon|Oporto|Different|Medium |Lisbon |Oporto| Divers |Medium |Lisbon|Oporto|Medium|Lisbon |Oporto|Medium |  Divers Ports. |
+    Ports. |Low Prices|           |       |      |  Ports. | Price |       |      | Ports. | Price |      |      | Price|       |      | Price |                |
+-----------|----------------------|-------|------|---------|-------|-------|------|--------|-------|------|------|------|-------|------|-------|----------------|
+      2,099|  600 to  |     67,029|  1593 |   480|     570 |  2100 |   5229|   243|   6811 |    770|  3263|    36|   750|   1903|   834|   2050|                |
+     10,676|  1,300   |    354,646|                    5,550,300   |                   9,457,140   |          2,474,250 |        5,610,850     |                |
+ 11,811,200|          |354,308,220|                                |                               |                    |                      |  25,581,550    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+      5,275|  650 to  |     66,214|  6671 |   300|         |  2100 |   7353|  1114|    248 |    750|  4769|  5072|   730|   1752|   503|   3000|                |
+     28,165|  1,200   |    854,646|                   14,639,100   |                   6,536,250   |          7,380,750 |        6,916,500     |                |
+ 28,145,000|          |350,970,050|                                |                               |                    |                      |  12,667,025    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        892|  800 to  |     70,957|  7380 |   758|         |  2000 |   6785|  1071|   2277 |    900|  7693|  3554|   900|   1891|   368|   2400|                |
+      4,088|  1,000   |    372,252|                   16,276,000   |                   9,919,700   |         10,122,300 |        5,428,600     |                |
+  3,536,200|          |334,577,720|                                |                               |                    |                      |   5,585,250    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+         50|  800 to  |     71,279|  8649 |  1785|         |  2500 |  15288|  2419|   1282 |   1200|  8235|  5102|   950|   1743|     4|   1800|                |
+        270|  1,000   |    377,605|                   26,085,000   |                  22,786,800   |         12,670,150 |        3,144,605     |                |
+    249,600|          |313,916,300|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,190,000    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ --------- |  700 to  |     82,135|  7085 |  1142|         |  2500 |  22133|  3867|    235 |   1200| 17268|  8690|   950|   1547|   104|   1300|                |
+ --------- |  1,000   |    417,617|                   20,567,500   |                  31,482,000   |         24,660,100 |        2,971,800     |                |
+ --------- |          |347,317,835|                                |                               |                    |                      |   4,400,000    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+      4,921| 1,000 to |     56,383|  7456 |  1406|         |  2500 |   1595|  4287|    496 |   1200| 31449|  7397|   950|   2577|   684|   800 |                |
+     25,134|  1,300   |    297,417|                   22,155,000   |                  24,889,200   |         36,903,700 |        5,869,800     |                |
+ 24,524,000|          |350,096,712|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,155,300    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        677| 1,150 to |     68,966|  8342 |   720|       50|  2700 |   4531|  1177|   5669 |   1250| 32460|  6395|   950|   1994|   202|  1800 |                |
+      3,663|  1,400   |    360,093|                   24,602,400   |                  14,221,250   |         36,912,250 |        3,952,800     |                |
+  4,362,500|          |432,078,500|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,651,500    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ --------- |   700 to |     64,927|   200 |  1977|     3411|  3000 |    150|    55|  27895 |    950|  4385|  3720|   875|   2883|   500|  1950 |                |
+ --------- |  1,300   |    336,746|                   16,764,000   |                  26,695,000   |         19,007,625 |        6,596,850     |                |
+ --------- |          |505,114,400|                                |                               |                    |                      |   2,246,800    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        497|   700 to |     64,736|  9813 |  1394|      140|  2800 |   3620|   687|  13795 |   1500|  2241|  3138|  1100|   1771|   417|  2000 |                |
+      2,575|   900    |    324,121|                   31,771,600   |                  27,453,000   |          5,905,930 |        4,376,000     |                |
+  1,650,000|          |241,184,423|                                |                               |                    |                      |   1,173,500    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------|
+        590|   600 to |     56,270|  9615 |   678|      144|  2800 |   4226|   850|  22306 |   1800| 18414|   850|  1000|   2845|   957|  2000 |                |
+      1,428|   640    |    284,721|                   28,921,600   |                  41,073,000   |         49,261,000 |        6,404,000     |                |
+  1,071,000|          |216,765,975|                                |                               |                    |                      |  33,971,279    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+
+
+RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.
+(Continued below)
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+   DESTINATION.        |      1812.   |     1813.    |      1814.   |      1815.   |      1816.    |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Lisbon                 |  329,129,250 |  431,910,360 |  657,262,706 |  850,902,450 |1,207,011,150  |
+Oporto                 |  109,206,658 |  147,234,848 |  154,551,839 |  146,581,700 |  208,018,640  |
+England                |  601,688,917 |1,060,051,156 |  917,043,259 |1,078,845,100 |1,852,712,000  |
+France                 |--------------|--------------|   63,971,999 |--------------|  166,908,425  |
+United States          |   10,304,419 |--------------|--------------|--------------|---------------|
+Different Ports        |   19,522,655 |    6,569,000 |    1,432,200 |      409,690 |---------------|
+Total of the Exports   |1,069,951,894 |1,645,795,359 |1,794,262,003 |2,076,738,850 |3,434,650,215  |
+Export Duties on Cotton|  130,654,878 |  196,016,626 |  148,634,103 |  166,727,400 |  210,154,200  |
+National Ship sailed   |           52 |           62 |           66 |           66 |           77  |
+Foreign Ships sailed   |           35 |           27 |           14 |           39 |           54  |
+Total Ships sailed     |           87 |           89 |           80 |          105 |          131  |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.
+(Continued)
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-----------------|
+     1817.      |      1818.      |    1819      |     1820        | Mean of First   | Mean of Second  |      1821.      |
+                |                 |              |                 |  Five Years.    |   Five Years.   |                 |
+----------------|-----------------|--------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------|
+ 1,377,936,025  |  1,012,630,550  |   730,509,375|   556,768,709   |   695,249,183   |   976,971,161   |   483,451,725   |
+   309,450,087  |    316,367,700  |   196,421,700|   155,742,814   |   153,138,735   |   237,200,138   |    88,312,150   |
+ 1,728,432,950  |  2,084,502,450  | 1,333,142,354| 1,406,996,782   | 1,102,068,086   | 1,681,157,507   |   602,368,671   |
+   132,448,300  |    242,214,100  |   203,392,000|    86,879,600   | --------------- |   166,368,185   |    85,130,200   |
+ -------------- |      7,319,000  |    48,720,959|    20,168,000   | --------------- | --------------- |    43,332,000   |
+       595,200  |      6,653,400  |       238,833|     9,126,400   | --------------- | --------------- |     1,020,250   |
+ 3,548,862,562  |  3,669,687,200  | 2,512,425,212| 2,237,396,305   | 2,004,279,664   | 3,080,604,298   | 2,304,685,996   |
+   241,037,400  |    241,675,800  |   215,568,000|   220,315,800   |   170,437,441   |   225,750,240   |   153,319,999   |
+            86  |             77  |            78|            63   |            64   |            76   |            49   |
+            65  |             78  |            66|            70   |            34   |            66   |            65   |
+           151  |            155  |           144|           133   |            98   |           143   |           114   |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+        STATE OF INDUSTRY.
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+      All the Provinces.              |      Where.          |Quantity|  Daily |  Daily  |  Total  |
+                                      |                      |        |Maximum |Minimum. |         |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Commerce and |National Houses         |City of Maranha�      |      54|        |         |         |
+Industry.    |Ditto foreign           |    Ditto             |       4|        |         |         |
+             |Men living by their own |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |  industry              |All the provinces     | 29  580|        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+             |Steam engine for        |City of Maranha�      |       1|        |         |         |
+Machines,    |  shelling rice.        |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |Machines, with mules,   |    Ditto             |      22|        |         |         |
+Potteries,   | for shelling rice      |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |Ditto for sugar         |Interior              |       7|        |         |         |
+Furnaces,    |Ditto for bruising cane |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             | for distilling         |    Ditto             |     115|        |         |         |
+and Forges.  |Hand machines for       |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             | cleansing cotton       |    Ditto             |     521|        |         |         |
+             |Manufactory of          |Isle of Maranha�      |       1|        |         |         |
+             |Looms for weaving cotton|In the city           |     230|        |         |         |
+             |Potteries               |    Ditto             |      27|        |         |         |
+             |Lime kilns              |Isle of Maranha�      |      26|        |         |         |
+             |Saw pits                |All the provinces     |      18|        |         |         |
+             |Forges                  |    Ditto             |     132|        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Taylors.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      61|  1,000 |     320 |     157 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      96|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Braziers.    |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    600 |     320 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Carpenters.  |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      86|    800 |     320 |     269 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     183|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Woodcutters. |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      96|  1,200 |     400 |     138 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      42|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+  Ship       |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      80|    800 |     320 |     118 |
+Carpenters.  |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      38|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+  Smiths     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       5|    800 |     400 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |        |  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Blacksmiths. |Freemen                 |City of Maranha�      |      37|    700 |     320 |      60 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      23|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Coopers.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       2|     48 |     320 |       3 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Joiners.     |Freemen                 |All the provinces     |      30|    800 |     400 |      57 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      27|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Goldsmiths.  |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      49|    640 |     400 |      60 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      11|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Masons and   |Freemen                 |City of Maranha�      |     404|    800 |     320 |   1,012 |
+Stone-cutters|Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     608|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Painters.    |Freemen                 |All the provinces     |      10|    640 |     400 |      15 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       5|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Carpenters.  |Freemen                 |City of Maranha�      |      92|    800 |     400 |     235 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     143|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Sadlers.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    800 |     400 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Tanners.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    480 |     320 |      10 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       6|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Workwomen and|Free                    |                      |        |        |         |   1,800 |
+Female       |Slaves                  |    Ditto             | 1   800|    240 |     160 |         |
+ Servants.   |                        |                      |        |        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Servants     |Whites                  |All the provinces     |     560|Variable|Variable |     760 |
+and Factors. |Free blacks             |All the provinces     |     200|Variable|Variable |         |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+        STATEMENT OF PRODUCE.
+-------------------------------------------------------------------|
+  In the whole province.    |  Produce.   | Consumption |  Medium  |
+                            |             |             |   Value. |
+----------------------------|-------------|-------------|----------|
+New Cotton      arrobas     |  225518     |   11600     |    3900  |
+Spirits         pipes       |     385     |     405     |   60000  |
+Rice            alqueires   |  570079     |  380945     |     570  |
+Sugar           arrobas     |     417     |   20000     |    3200  |
+Oil             canadas     |   68386     |   30018     |     600  |
+Potatoes        arrobas     |    2420     |    8600     |    1200  |
+Currie          ditas       |      83     |      32     |    2500  |
+Coffee          ditas       |    1020     |     880     |    3200  |
+Dry Beef        ditas       |   48924     |   64200     |    2000  |
+Wax             ditas       |      37     |     500     |    3200  |
+Hides           numero      |   28876     |    2578     |    1800  |
+Beans           alqueires   |    3128     |    3500     |    1400  |
+Fruits          number      |      36     |   todas     |  variable|
+Ginger          arrobas     |      28     |       6     |    2400  |
+Mandioc         alqueires   |  207899     |  198810     |     900  |
+Treacle         barrels     |    6988     |    2381     |     170  |
+Maize           alqueires   |   77172     |   todo      |     700  |
+Salt Fish       arrobas     |   15254     |   todo      |    1000  |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------|
+              STATEMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
+       |In the whole | Employed | Existing. |Mean Worth.|      Daily.  |
+       |  Province   |          |           |           |              |
+-------|-------------|----------|-----------|-----------|--------------|
+Persons|Freemen      |  19960   |   35618   |-----------|de 240 a 326  |
+       |Slaves       |  69534   |   84434   |  200000   |de 160 a 240  |
+-------|-------------|----------|-----------|-----------|--------------|
+       |Oxen         |   8811   |  130640   |   10000   |--------------|
+       |Asses        |----------|      28   |   20000   |--------------|
+       |Goats        |----------|    7400   |    1200   |--------------|
+       |Sheep        |----------|    1800   |    2000   |--------------|
+Cattle.|Horses       |    600   |   12240   |   20000   |--------------|
+       |Mares        |----------|    9400   |   10000   |--------------|
+       |Mules        |   1100   |    3200   |   45000   |--------------|
+       |Ewes         |----------|     890   |    1200   |--------------|
+       |Cows         |----------|   20400   |   12000   |--------------|
+ Total Amount of Agriculture      1,897,271,846                        |
+ Capital employed                27,813,600,000                        |
+ Number of Farms                          4,856                        |
+ Number of Proprietors                    2,683                        |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+_Note_.--The worth is calculated in rees, the 1,000, or milree, being
+worth 5s. 2d. sterling.
+
+
+THE END
+
+LONDON:
+
+Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.
+
+ERRATA. (already corrected)
+
+Page 30. line 20. for _hopes_ read _losses_.
+
+41. 21. for _1817_ read _1807_.
+
+45. in the list of ships that remained at Lisbon, last line but one, for
+_Ferlao_ read _Tr�ta�_.
+
+47. line 12. for _Ponta_ read _Ponte_.
+
+57. 4. for _ambassader_ read _ambassador_.
+
+59. 17. for _sodier_ read _soldier_.
+
+61. 4. for _government_ read _governments_.
+
+64. in the first line of note + for _not_ read _most_.
+
+65. line 13. for _Custova�_ read _Cristova�_.
+
+69. 6. for _Cauler_ read _Caula_.
+
+79. 21. for _fuchsia_ read _fuschia_.
+
+126. 16. for _impotation_ read _importation_.
+
+130. 23. for _nove_ read _nova_.
+
+141. 4. from bottom, for _Pinja_ read _Piraja_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, by Maria Graham
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, by Maria Graham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journal of a Voyage to Brazil
+       And Residence There During Part of the Years 1821, 1822, 1823
+
+Author: Maria Graham
+
+Release Date: April 22, 2007 [EBook #21201]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif, Janet Blenkinship and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at DP Europe
+(http://dp.rastko.net)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Transcriber's note: The spelling of the original has been retained.
+This includes a few apparent mis-spellings and varied spellings of the
+same words and names. Diacritical marks not available in this characters
+set are handled thusly:
+
+[=e]--for the letter e with a line over it.
+[)a]--for a letter a with a u-shape over it.
+[)o]--for a letter o with a u-shape over it.
+[)u]--for a letter u with a u-shape over it.]
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO BRAZIL,
+
+AND
+
+RESIDENCE THERE, DURING PART OF THE YEARS 1821, 1822, 1823.
+
+BY MARIA GRAHAM.
+
+ONCE MORE UPON THE WATERS, YET ONCE MORE,
+AND THE WAVES BOUND BENEATH ME AS A STEED
+THAT KNOWS HIS RIDER.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+LONDON:
+
+PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,
+
+PATERNOSTER-ROW;
+
+AND J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
+
+1824.
+
+LONDON:
+
+Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Although the Journal of a voyage to Brazil, and of a residence of many
+months in that country, was not written without a view to publication at
+some time; yet many unforeseen circumstances forced the writer to pause
+before she committed it to press, and to cancel many pages recording
+both public and private occurrences.
+
+Perhaps there is even yet too much of a personal nature, but what is
+said is at least honest; and if the writer should suffer personally by
+candour, the suffering will be cheerfully borne.
+
+As to public events, all that can be new in the Journal is the bringing
+together facts which have reached Europe one by one, and recording the
+impression produced on the spot by those occurrences which might be
+viewed in a very different light elsewhere. Some have, no doubt, been
+distorted by the interested channels through which they have reached the
+public; some by the ignorance of the reporters; and most by the party
+spirit which has viewed either with enthusiasm or malignity the
+acquisition of freedom in any quarter of the globe.
+
+The writer does not pretend to perfect impartiality, for in some cases
+impartiality is no virtue; but knowing that no human good can be
+attained without a mixture of evil, she trusts that a fair picture of
+both has been given, although it has cost some pain in the writing.
+
+Of the natives of the country, or of those engaged in its service, what
+is said, whether of those still employed or of those no longer in the
+empire, was written under the impression of the moment; and the writer's
+confidence in the good sense and justice of the Brazilian government and
+people is such, that she leaves the passages as they stood at the moment
+of writing.
+
+The events of the last three years in Brazil have been so important,
+that it was thought best not to interrupt the account of them, by
+continuing what may be called the writer's personal narrative after she
+reached Chile; therefore the two visits to Brazil are printed together,
+along with an Introduction containing a sketch of the history of the
+country previous to the first visit, and a notice of the public events
+of the year of her absence, to connect it with the second.
+
+The Journal of a visit to Chile will form the subject of a separate
+volume.
+
+It was thought essential that the narratives concerning Spanish and
+Portuguese America should be kept quite separate; the countries
+themselves being as different in climate and productions, as the
+inhabitants are in manners, society, institutions, and government.
+
+Nothing can be more interesting than the actual situation of the whole
+of South America. While Europe was engaged in the great revolutionary
+war, that country was silently advancing towards the point at which
+longer subjection to a foreign dominion became impossible.
+Circumstances, not laws, had opened the ports of the South Atlantic and
+the Pacific. Individuals, not nations, had lent their aid to the
+patriots of the New World: and more warlike instruments and ammunition
+had gone silently from the warehouses of the merchant to arm the natives
+against their foreign tyrants, than had ever issued from the arsenals of
+the greatest nations. But, for a period, Brazil did not openly join in
+the struggle for independence. The Royal Family of Portugal took refuge
+there; and converted it, by that step, from a colony into the seat of
+government, from a state of slavery to one of sovereignty. Therefore,
+while the court continued to reside at Rio de Janeiro, the Brazilians
+had no inducement to break with the mother country. But it was very
+different when the King returned to Lisbon, and the Cortes, forgetting
+the change of men's minds produced by circumstances, endeavoured to
+force Brazil back to the abject state from which she had arisen. Then
+arose the struggle, some part of which it was the fortune of the writer
+to witness; and concerning which she was able to collect some facts
+which may serve as materials for future history. She trusts that if the
+_whole truth_ is not to be found in her pages, that there will be
+_nothing but the truth_.
+
+It is with no small anxiety that the Journal is sent into the world, in
+the hope that it may tend to excite interest for the country by making
+it better known. Perhaps the writer has over-rated her powers, in
+attempting to record the progress of so important an event as the
+emancipation of such an empire from the thraldrom of the mother country.
+The lighter part of her task, namely, the description of the country,
+its inhabitants, and the manners of the different classes, both of
+natives and foreigners, should have been fuller; but that want of
+health, and sometimes want of spirits, prevented her from making use of
+all the means that might have been within her reach of acquiring
+knowledge. She trusts, however, that there is no misrepresentation of
+importance; and that the Journal, the writing of which has to her
+beguiled many a lonely and many a sorrowful hour, will not give a
+moment's pain to any human creature.
+
+
+
+
+PLATES.
+
+
+PLATE I. Val Longo, or Slave Market at Rio _to front the Title Page_.
+
+II. Represents the Great Dragon Tree of Oratava, of which Humboldt has
+given so interesting an account. He saw it in all its greatness; I drew
+it after it had lost half its top _to face Page 85_
+
+III. View of Count Maurice's Gate at Pernambuco, with the Slave Market
+107
+
+IV. Gamella Tree at Bahia 135
+
+V. Larangeiras 163
+
+VI. View from Count Hoggendorp's Cottage 170
+
+VII. View of Rio from the Gloria Hill 169
+
+VIII. Corcovado, from Botofogo 220
+
+IX. Palace of San Cristovao 246
+
+X. Dona Maria de Jesus 292
+
+XI. English Burial Ground 307
+
+
+
+
+VIGNETTES.
+
+
+I. That at the head of the Journal, page 77, represents two young Dragon
+Trees; that with a single head is twenty years old, and had not, when I
+saw it, been tapped for the Dragon's Blood. The other is about a century
+old, and the bark is disfigured by the incisions made in it to procure
+the gum _to face Page 77_
+
+II. Part of Pernambuco, seen from Cocoa-nut Island, within the Reef 97
+
+III. Slaves dragging a Hogshead in the Streets of Pernambuco 131
+
+IV. Cadeira, or Sedan Chair of Bahia 133
+
+V. Church and Convent of Sant Antonio da Barre at Bahia, as seen from
+the Roca 157
+
+VI. The Sugar-loaf Rock, at the Entrance to the Harbour of Rio de
+Janeiro 158
+
+VII. The End of an Island in the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro, drawn for
+the sake of the variety of Vegetation 201
+
+VIII. Convicts carrying Water at Rio de Janeiro 217
+
+IX. Stone Cart at Rio de Janeiro 321
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL.
+
+
+I judged it necessary to prefix the following sketch of the history of
+Brazil to the journal of my voyage thither, in order that the political
+events to which I was an eye-witness might be the better understood.
+
+The early part of the history is almost entirely taken from Mr. Southey.
+It would have been easy for me to have referred to the Portuguese
+authors, as I have read nearly all that are to be found in print of Mr.
+Southey's authorities, and some that he does not mention; but Mr.
+Southey had been so faithful as well as judicious in the use he has made
+of his authors, that it would have been absurd, if not impertinent, to
+have neglected his guidance. From the time of the King's arrival in
+Brazil, or rather of his leaving Lisbon, I am answerable for all I have
+stated: it is little, but I hope that little is correct.
+
+The circumstances of Spanish and Portuguese America were very different
+in every stage. In Mexico, in Peru, in Chili, the conquerors encountered
+a people civilised and humane; acquainted with many of the arts of
+polished life; agriculturists and mechanics; knowing in the things
+belonging to the altar and the throne, and waging war for conquest and
+for glory. But the savages of Brazil were hunters and cannibals; they
+wandered, and they made war for food: few of the tribes knew even the
+cultivation of the mandioc, and fewer still had adopted any kind of
+covering, save paint and feathers for ornament. The Spanish conquests
+were more quickly made, and appeared more easily settled, because in
+states so far advanced in civilisation the defeat of an army decides the
+fate of a kingdom, and the land already cultivated, and the mines
+already known and worked, were entered upon at once by the conquerors.
+
+In Brazil the land that was granted by leagues was _to be won by inches_
+from the hordes of savages who succeeded each other in incalculable
+multitudes, and whose migratory habits rendered it a matter of course
+for one tribe immediately to occupy the ground from which its
+predecessors had been driven. Hence the history of the early settlers in
+Brazil presents none of those splendid and chivalresque pictures that
+the chronicles of the Corteses, and Pizarros, and Almagros furnish. They
+are plain, and often pathetic scenes of human life, full of patience,
+and enterprise, and endurance; but the wickedness that stains even the
+best of them, is the more disgusting as it is more sordid.
+
+But the very circumstances that facilitated the settling of the Spanish
+colonies were also likely to accelerate their liberation. A sense and a
+remembrance of national honour and freedom, remained among the polished
+Mexicans and Peruvians. Their numbers indeed had been thinned by the
+cruelties of the conquerors, but enough were left to perpetuate the
+memory of their fathers, to hand down the prophecies uttered in the
+phrenzy of their dying patriots; and the Peruvian, when he visited Lima,
+looked round the chamber of the viceroys, as he saw niche after niche
+filled up with their pictures, till the fated number should be
+accomplished, with no common emotion[1]; and many a dreamer on the
+Peruvian coast, when he saw the Admiral of the Chilian squadron, was
+ready to hail him as the golden-haired son of light who was to restore
+the kingdom of the Incas.[2]
+
+[Note 1: The hall with the pictures of the viceroys was filled:
+there would be no room in it for Lacerna.]
+
+[Note 2: This prophecy was recorded by Garcelaco de la Vega; and it
+is said, that the copies of his Incas were bought up, and an edition
+printed, omitting the prophecy.]
+
+But in Brazil, what was once gained was not likely to be lost by the
+efforts of the natives, or at least by any recollection of their's,
+pointing to a better or more glorious time. They have been either
+exterminated, or wholly subdued. The slave hunting, which had been
+systematic on the first occupation of the land, and more especially
+after the discovery of the mines, had diminished the wretched Indians,
+so that the introduction of the hardier Africans was deemed necessary:
+_they_ now people the Brazilian fields; and if here and there an Indian
+aldea is to be found, the people are wretched, with less than Negro
+comforts, and much less than Negro spirit or industry. Hence, while the
+original Mexicans and Peruvians form a real and respectable part of the
+assertors of the independance of their country, along with the Creole
+Spaniards, the Indians are nothing in Brazil; even as a mixed race, they
+have less part among the different casts than in the Spanish colonies;
+and therefore jealousies among the Portuguese themselves could alone at
+this period have brought affairs to their present crisis. These
+jealousies have taken place, and though they did not arise principally
+out of the causes of the emigration and return of the Royal family, they
+were at least quickened and accelerated by them.
+
+In 1499, Brazil was discovered by Vicente Yanez Pincon, a native of
+Palos, and one of the companions of Columbus. He and his brothers were
+in search of new countries, and after touching at the Cape de Verd
+Islands, he steered to the south-west, till he came to the coast of
+Brazil, near Cape St. Augustine, and coasted along as far as the river
+Maranham, and thence to the mouth of the Oronoco. He carried home some
+valuable drugs, precious stones, and Brazil wood; but had lost two of
+his three ships on the voyage. He made no settlement, but had claimed
+the country for Spain.
+
+Meantime Pedro Alvarez Cabral was appointed by Emanuel, King of
+Portugal, to the command of a large fleet, destined to follow the course
+of Vasco de Gama in the east. Adverse winds, however, drove the
+expedition so far to the westward, that it fell in with the coast of
+Brazil, and the ships anchored in Porto Seguro on Good-Friday of the
+year 1500. On Easter-day the first Christian altar was raised in the new
+continent under a large tree, and mass was performed, at which the
+innocent natives assisted with pleased attention: the country was taken
+possession of for the crown of Portugal by the name of the land of the
+Holy Cross, and a stone cross was erected to commemorate the event.
+Cabral dispatched a small vessel to Lisbon to announce his discovery,
+and then, without making any settlement, proceeded to India.
+
+On the arrival of the news in Europe, the King of Portugal invited
+Amerigo Vespucci from Seville, and sent him with three ships to explore
+the country. After a long and distressing voyage they arrived, and very
+early in their intercourse with the natives they discovered that they
+were cannibals, but nevertheless they established a friendly intercourse
+with some of the tribes; and after coasting along South America as far
+as lat. 52 deg., finding neither port nor inhabitants, and suffering from
+intolerable cold, they returned to Lisbon in 1502.
+
+Early in the next year Amerigo sailed again with six ships; but having
+stood too near the coast of Africa, after passing the Cape de Verds by
+the orders of the commander, four of the vessels were lost, but Amerigo
+with the other two reached a port which they called All Saints.[3] There
+they remained five months, in friendship with the natives, with whom
+some of the party travelled forty leagues into the interior. They
+erected a small fort, and left twelve men with guns and provisions, and
+having loaded their two ships with Brazil wood, monkeys, and parrots,
+they returned to Lisbon early in 1504.
+
+[Note 3: This cannot be Bahia; for they say, that after coasting 260
+leagues they were in 18 deg.S.; now Bahia is in 12 deg. 40', or nearly; the
+difference being 120 leagues; it must therefore be a port to the
+northward.]
+
+But as Brazil, as it now began to be called, did not promise that ample
+supply of gold which the Spaniards had discovered in their new
+countries, and which the Portuguese gained with less hazard from Africa,
+and from the East, the country ceased for a time to excite the attention
+of government, and the first actual settlements were made by private
+adventurers, who, on account of their trade, were desirous of having
+some kind of agents among the people. The first persons employed for
+this purpose were criminals, a sort of settlers that may do well in an
+unpeopled country, where there is nothing to do but to reclaim the land,
+but that must do ill where there are many and savage natives, because
+they either become degraded to the savage level themselves, if they
+continue friends, or, if not, they are apt to practise such cruelties
+and injustice as disgust the natives, render colonisation difficult, and
+if they teach any thing, it is all the worst part of the life of
+civilised nations.
+
+But in 1508, Amerigo Vespucci having returned to the service of Spain,
+the King resolved to take possession of the new land which had been
+discovered; and founding his claims on the grant of Alexander VI., he
+sent Vincent Yanez Pincon and Juan Diaz de Solis to assert them. They
+made Cape St Augustine's, which Pincon had discovered, and coasted along
+to lat. 40 deg. south, erecting crosses as they went; but some disputes
+having arisen between them, they returned to Spain: and it appears that
+the remonstrances of Portugal against the voyage, as an interference
+with her discoveries, had some weight, for it was not until 1515 that
+Solis was dispatched on a second voyage, and then it was with the avowed
+purpose of seeking a passage to the Great Pacific Sea, which had been
+sought and seen by Balboa in 1513.
+
+That extraordinary but unfortunate man was the first European whose eyes
+rested on the broad Pacific. He had heard from the Indians of its
+existence, and resolutely set out to discover it, well aware of the
+dangers and difficulties he had to encounter. After twenty-five days of
+suffering and fatigue, he saw the South Sea; he heard of Peru, its
+mines, and its llamas, its cities and its aqueducts, and he received
+pearls[4] from the islands that lay in front of St. Miguel's bay, where
+he walked sword in hand up to his middle into the water and took
+possession for the King of Spain. No one in Europe now doubted that the
+western way to the East Indies was discovered.
+
+[Note 4: Pearl islands, in the bay of Panama. The sand of the beach
+of those islands is iron, and is as easily attracted by the loadstone as
+steel filings.]
+
+Great hopes were therefore entertained from the expedition of Solis.
+That able navigator made the coast of Brazil far to the southward of
+Cape St. Augustine, where he had been with Pincon; and on the 1st of
+January 1516 he discovered the harbour of Rio de Janeiro; thence he
+sailed still to the southward, and entered what he hoped at first would
+be a sea, or strait, by which he might communicate with the ocean; but
+it was the river La Plata, where Solis and several of his followers were
+murdered and devoured by the natives. The ships then put back to St.
+Augustines, loaded with Brazil wood, and returned to Spain.
+
+But the King Don Emanuel claimed these cargoes, and again remonstrated
+against the interference of Spain so effectually, that three years
+afterwards, when Magalhaens touched at Rio de Janeiro, he purchased
+nothing but provisions.
+
+Meantime several French adventurers had come to Brazil, and had taken in
+their cargoes of Brazil wood, monkies and parrots, and sometimes
+plundered some of the weaker Portuguese traders. In 1616, two of these
+adventurers entered the bay of All Saints, and had begun to trade with
+the Indians, when the Portuguese commander, Cristovam Jaques, sailing
+into the port, and examining all its coves, discovered them, and sunk
+the ships, crews, and cargoes. About the same time, a young Portuguese
+nobleman, who had been wrecked on the shoal off the entrance of the
+harbour[5], and who had seen half his companions drowned, and half eaten
+by the Indians, had contrived to conciliate the natives. He had saved a
+musket and some powder from the wreck, and having taken an opportunity
+of shooting a bird in the presence of the inhabitants, they called him
+Caramuru, or the man of fire; and, as he accompanied them on an
+expedition against their enemies the Tapuyas, he became a favourite,
+married at least one Indian wife, and fixed his residence at the spot
+now called Villa Velha, near an excellent spring, and not far from the
+entrance to the bay.
+
+[Note 5: I suppose that off St. Antonio da Barre.]
+
+Caramuru, however, felt some natural longing to see his native land, and
+accordingly seized the opportunity afforded by the arrival of a French
+vessel, and taking his favourite wife, he went with her to France, where
+they were well received by the court, the king and queen standing
+sponsors at the baptism of the Brazilian lady, whose marriage was now
+celebrated according to the Christian form. Caramuru, however, was not
+permitted to go to Portugal; but by means of a young Portuguese student
+at Paris[6], he communicated his situation to the King Joam III., and
+pressed him to send an expedition to the bay of All Saints. Shortly
+afterwards, Caramuru returned to Bahia, having agreed to freight two
+ships with Brazil wood as the price of his passage, of the artillery of
+the ships, and of the articles necessary for trading with the natives.
+
+Still, however, as Brazil furnished neither gold, nor that rich commerce
+which the Portuguese derived from their Indian trade, it was pretty much
+left to itself for the first thirty years after its discovery; and then
+the regulations adopted by the court were not, perhaps, the most
+advantageous for the country. The coast was divided by Joam III. into
+captaincies, many of which extended fifty leagues, and each captaincy
+was made hereditary, and granted to any one who was willing to embark
+with sufficient means in the adventure; and to these captains an
+unlimited jurisdiction, both criminal and civil, was granted.
+
+The first person who took possession of one of these captaincies was
+Martim Affonso de Souza, in 1531, who sometimes claims the discovery of
+Rio de Janeiro as his, although it had been named by Solis fifteen years
+before. Souza was probably deterred from fixing on the shores of that
+beautiful bay, by the number and fierceness of the Indian tribes that
+occupied them. He therefore coasted towards the south, naming Ilha
+Grande dos Magos on twelfth-day, when
+
+    "Three kings, or what is more, three wise men went
+    Westward to seek the world's true orient."
+
+[Note 6: Pedro Fernandez Sardinha, the first bishop of Brazil.]
+
+St. Sebastian's on the 20th, and St. Vincent's on the 22d; but having
+proceeded as far south as the La Plata, he returned to the neighbourhood
+of San Vincente, where he ultimately founded his colony, and whence he
+named the whole captaincy.
+
+Martim Affonso de Souza was no ordinary man: his cares for his colony
+did not relax even after he had been recalled, and sent as
+governor-general to India, where he had before highly distinguished
+himself. He introduced the sugar-cane from Madeira into his colony, and
+in it also the first cattle were bred. Thence they have spread all over
+the continent of South America, and have proved of more real value to it
+than its mines.
+
+Pero Lopes de Souza, the brother of Martim Affonso, had his fifty
+leagues of coast in two allotments; one part, St. Amaro, was immediately
+to the north of San Vincente, and the other was Tamaraca, between
+Pernambuco and Paraiba.
+
+About the same time the Fidalgo Pedro de Goes attempted a settlement at
+Paraiba do Sul; but after two years tolerable prosperity, he was
+attacked by the native tribe of Goaytacazes, and five years of warfare
+reduced him to the necessity of sending to Espirito Santo for vessels to
+remove his colonists.
+
+Vasco Fernandez de Coutinho began to settle Espirito Santo in the same
+year (1531) in which the former colonies had been begun. He had amassed
+a great fortune in the East, and expended most of it in collecting
+volunteers for his new colony; sixty fidalgoes and men of the royal
+household accompanied him. The adventurers had a prosperous voyage. On
+their arrival they built a fort, which they called N. S. da Victoria,
+and established four sugar-works. Coutinho returned to Lisbon for
+recruits and implements for mining, the settlers having now obtained
+some indications of gold and jewels to be found in the country.
+
+The adjoining captaincy of Porto Seguro was given to Pedro de Campo
+Tourinho, a nobleman and a navigator. He sold his possessions at home,
+and raised a large body of colonists, with which he established himself
+at Porto Seguro, the harbour where Cabral had first taken possession of
+Brazil. The history of the settlement of Porto Seguro, like that of all
+the others, is stained with the most atrocious cruelties; not such as
+soldiers in the heat of war commit, but cold calculated cruelties,
+exterminating men for the sake of growing canes, so waiting patiently
+for the _fruit_ of crime.[7]
+
+[Note 7: I hope the following tale is not true, though my authority
+is good. In this very captaincy, within these twenty years, an Indian
+tribe had been so troublesome, that the Capitam Mor resolved to get rid
+of it. It was attacked, but defended itself so bravely, that the
+Portuguese resolved to desist from open warfare; but with unnatural
+ingenuity exposed ribands and toys infected with smallpox matter in the
+places where the poor savages were likely to find them: the plan
+succeeded. The Indians were so thinned, that they were easily overcome!]
+
+_Ilheos_, so called from its principal river, which has three islands at
+the mouth, was settled by Jorge de Figueredo Correa, who had a place in
+the treasury, under Joam III., between 1531 and 1540, and speedily
+became flourishing, being remarkably favourable to the sugar
+cultivation.
+
+Bahia de Todo os Santos was, with its adjacent territory, given to
+Francisco Pereira Coutinho, a fidalgo who had made himself a name in
+India. He fixed his abode at Villa Velha, where Caramuru had formed his
+little settlement, and two of his followers married the daughters of
+Caramuru.
+
+The bay, or reconcave of All Saints, is a magnificent harbour: the
+entrance appears to be a league in breadth; but on the right hand, on
+entering, there is a shoal dangerous to large vessels, called that of
+St. Antonio da Barre; and on the left, coral reefs running off from
+Itaporica. The country that surrounds it is so fertile, that it must
+always have been an object of desire whether to savage or civilised
+inhabitants; and it is not surprising that three revolutions, that is,
+three changes of indwellers, driven out by each other, should have been,
+in the memory of the Indians, before the settlement of Coutinho.
+
+That nobleman, whose early life had been passed in the East-Indian
+Portuguese wars, imprudently and cruelly disturbed the peace of the
+rising settlement, by the murder of a son of one of the chiefs. The
+consequence was, that after a most disastrous warfare, in the course of
+which the already flourishing sugar-works were burnt, he and Caramuru
+were both obliged to abandon the settlement and retire to Ilheos. Soon
+afterwards, however, he made peace with the Indians; but on his return
+to the Reconcave, he was wrecked on the reef off Itaporica, where the
+natives murdered him, but spared Caramuru, who returned to his old
+dwelling.
+
+In the settlement of Pernambuco, the first donatory, Duarte Coelho
+Pereira, was opposed not only by the natives, but by numbers of French,
+who having carried on a desultory though profitable trade on the coast,
+now joined the Indians in retarding those regular settlements which were
+likely to put an end to their commerce. The colony, however, had been
+planted at Olinda,[8] a situation as strong as it is beautiful, and
+Pereira contrived to engage some of the Indian tribes in his favour. The
+war was but of short continuance, and nothing farther, except the
+seizure of the little settlement of Garussa, in the woods and near the
+creek which separates Itameraca from the main land, occurred to impede
+the prosperity of the captaincy.
+
+[Note 8: There is a note in the first volume of Southey's Brazil
+concerning the name of Marino given to Olinda by Hans Staade. The other
+Brazilians call the Pernambucans of Recife Marineros still. Is this from
+the town or their nautical habits? or from the name of the Indian
+village Marim which existed in the neighbourhood?]
+
+The last colony which was founded during these ten eventful years was
+that of Maranham. Three adventurers undertook this settlement jointly.
+The most celebrated was Joam de Barros, the historian; the others were
+Fernam Alvares de Andrada, father of the writer of the Chronicle, and
+Aires da Cunha.
+
+Aires da Cunha, Barros's two sons, and nine hundred men, sailed in ten
+ships for their new possession, but were wrecked on the shoals of
+Maranham; so that it was long before any success attended the
+undertaking. Da Cunha was drowned, the sons of Barros slain by the
+Indians, and the rest of the people with difficulty survived in a very
+wretched condition.
+
+Meantime the passage through Magellan's Straits had been discovered, and
+the Spaniards, first under Sebastian Cabot, and afterwards under Don
+Pedro de Mendoza, who founded Buenos Ayres, had begun to settle on the
+shores of the Plata, not without opposition from the Portuguese, and a
+more obstinate and fatal resistance from the Indians. The tribes in this
+neighbourhood appear to have been more civilised than those of the coast
+of Brazil, and consequently more formidable enemies to the rising towns.
+Orellana had also made his daring voyage down the mighty river that is
+sometimes called by his name. He had afterwards perished in an attempt
+to make a settlement on its shores, and nearly the same fate had
+attended Luiz de Mello da Silva, who made a similar attempt on the part
+of Portugal.
+
+Cabeza de Vacca had also made his adventurous overland journey from St.
+Catherine's, and after settling himself in the government of Assumption,
+had conducted various expeditions of discovery, always in hopes of
+finding an easy way to the gold countries. In one of these he found
+traces of the adventurer Garcia, a Portuguese, who, under the orders of
+Martim Affonso de Souza, had, with five companions, undertaken to
+explore the interior of South America. This man had by some means so
+conciliated the Indians, that he was followed by a very considerable
+army, and is said to have penetrated even into Tarija. He is believed to
+have perished by the hand of one of his own followers, but no
+particulars were ever known of his fate.
+
+During the next ten years, nothing remarkable occurred with regard to
+Brazil, except the founding of the city of St. Salvador's, by Thome de
+Souza, the first Captain General of Brazil, who carried out with him the
+first Jesuit missionaries. For the site of his new town De Souza fixed
+upon the hill immediately above the deepest part of the harbour of
+Bahia, which is defended at the back by a deep lake, and lies about half
+a league from the Villa Velha of Coutinho and Caramuru.
+
+The temporal concerns of the new colony, derived inestimable advantage
+from the friendship and assistance of the patriarch Caramuru: as to the
+spiritual, it was indeed time that some rule of faith and morals should
+find its way to Brazil. The settlers had hitherto had no instructors
+but friars, whose manners were as dissolute as their own, and who
+encouraged in them a licentious depravity, scarcely less shocking than
+the cannibalism of the savages. These latter are said to have eaten the
+children born by their own daughters to their prisoners of war,--a thing
+so unnatural, that it only gains credit because the Portuguese sold as
+slaves even their own children by the native women. The apostle of
+Brazil, as he may in truth be called, and chief of the six Jesuits who
+accompanied Souza, was Nobrega, the cotemporary and rival in the race of
+disinterested services to his fellow creatures of St. Francis Xavier;
+and, with regard to his steady attempts to protect as well as to convert
+the Indians, another Las Casas.
+
+Brazil was becoming an object of importance to the crown of Portugal.
+The new settlement of Bahia was established on the king's account, and
+at his expense 1000 persons had been sent out the first year, 1549. In
+four months there were 100 houses, six batteries, and a cathedral: a
+college for the Jesuits, a palace, and a custom-house were begun; the
+whole was defended by a mud wall. The next year supplies of all kinds
+arrived from Lisbon, and the year after that several female orphans, of
+noble family, were sent out as wives for the officers, with dowries in
+negroes, kine, and brood-mares.
+
+About this time, a Spanish expedition destined for the river Plata
+miscarried; one of the ships was wrecked off St. Vincent's, and to Hans
+Staade, one of the crew who survived and after various adventures fell
+into the power of the Indians, we are indebted for the most authentic
+and particular account of the Brazilian Savages.[9] It is curious that
+the Indians of the new world, should so very far exceed all the savage
+tribes of the old in barbarity. But it is certain that no authentic
+accounts of cannibals have ever been brought from Africa; whereas, none
+of the early writers on Brazil and its inhabitants have failed to dwell
+upon their love of human flesh, as characteristic of the people.
+
+[Note 9: In the Historia da Provincia Sancta Cruz, by Pero de
+Magalhaens de Gandano, 1576, there is an account sufficiently tallying
+with that which Southey has compiled from Hans Staade and De Lery. But
+it is far from being so disgusting. There is a copper-plate representing
+the dragging the prisoner with cords, and felling him with a club. The
+author gives a short account of the then known plants and animals of
+Brazil, and concludes with the hope that the mines believed to exist may
+speedily be found.--See the collection of tracts by Barbosa Maehado.]
+
+The year 1552 is distinguished by the arrival of the first bishop in
+Brazil. His see was fixed at St. Salvador's, or, as it is generally
+called, Bahia. In the next year, Thome de Souza retired from his
+government, and was succeeded by Don Duarte da Costa, who was
+accompanied by seven jesuits, among whom was the celebrated
+Anchieta.[10] The chief of the order, Loyola, was still alive, he
+erected Brazil into a new province, and appointed Nobrega and Luis de
+Gran, who had been principal at Coimbra, joint provincials. From that
+moment the labours of the fathers for the real good of the country
+commenced. And whatever may be the opinions entertained, as to their
+politics and ultimate views, there is not a doubt but that the means
+they employed to reclaim and civilise the Indians, were mild, and
+therefore successful; that while they wrought their own purposes, they
+made their people happy; and that centuries will not repair the evil
+done by their sudden expulsion, which broke up the bands of humanised
+society which were beginning to unite the Indians with their fellow
+creatures.
+
+[Note 10: Anchieta was not only a man of extraordinary firmness of
+mind and real piety, but a politician of no common cast, and his civil
+services to the Portuguese government were equal to those of the
+greatest captains, while his labours as a missionary and teacher were
+beyond those of any individual of whom I have ever read. His merits as a
+christian apostle and a man of literature, have disarmed even Mr.
+Southey of his usual rancour against the Roman Catholic faith. That
+excellent writer's book on Brazil is spoilt by intemperate language on a
+subject on which human feeling is least patient of direct contradiction,
+so that the general circulation of it is rendered impossible, and the
+good it might otherwise do in the country for which it is written
+frustrated. Oh, that Mr. Southey would remember the quotation which he
+himself brings forward from Jeremy Taylor! "Zeal against an error is not
+always the best instrument to find out truth."]
+
+In 1553, the first school was established in Brazil, by Nobrega, in the
+high plains of Piratininga, about thirteen leagues from the colony of
+San Vicente. Anchieta was the school-master. The school was opened on
+the feast of the conversion of St. Paul, and the establishment, and the
+infant colony rising round it, received the name of the saint. St.
+Paul's has since grown to be one of the most important towns in Brazil.
+Its rich minerals, its iron-works, and other manufactures, but, above
+all, the high and free spirit of its inhabitants, who have taken the
+lead in every effort for the good of the country, distinguish it above
+all the southern towns of Brazil.
+
+Anchieta, while he taught Latin to the Portuguese and Mamalucos,[11] and
+Portuguese to the Brazilians, learnt from these last their own tongue,
+and composed a grammar and dictionary for them. He had no books for his
+pupils, so that he wrote on separate leaves, in four different
+languages, the daily lesson for each. He served as physician, as well as
+priest and school-master, and practised and taught the most useful
+domestic arts. But the colony had, like all the others, to fight for its
+early existence; it was attacked by the Mamalucos of the neighbouring
+settlement of St. Andre, who regarded the instruction of the Indians as
+a step towards abolishing their slavery, and exclaimed against it as an
+infringement of what they called their right to the services of the
+natives. They engaged by other pretences some of the neighbouring tribes
+to assist them, but they were met and defeated by those of St. Paul's.
+
+[Note 11: Mamaluco. These were the Creole Portuguese, who had most
+of them intermarried with the natives.]
+
+Meantime some disputes having arisen between the Governor and the
+Bishop, the latter resolved to return to Lisbon, but was wrecked on the
+coast at a place called the Baixos de San Francisco, and there seized,
+and with one hundred other white persons put to death by the Cahetes.
+The revenge of the Portuguese was horrible, the Cahetes were hunted,
+slaughtered, and all but exterminated.
+
+In the year 1557, Joam III. died. His appointment of Mem de Sa, before
+his death, to the government of Brazil, prevented the country from
+immediately feeling the evils which a regency generally entails even in
+an established government, but which are sure to fall with tenfold
+weight upon a rising colony.
+
+Mem de Sa was a man of more enlightened mind, and more humane principles
+than most of those to whom the government of the Brazilian provinces
+had been intrusted. He arrived at Bahia in 1558, and earnestly applied
+himself to learn the relations in which the Portuguese, the Creoles, the
+Indians, and the mixed race stood to each other.
+
+His first acts were directed towards reclaiming the allied Indians from
+some of their most brutal practices, and to induce them to form
+settlements near those of the Jesuits. The selfish planters, interested
+in keeping up the feuds of the Indians, in order to procure slaves,
+exclaimed against these proceedings as violations of the freedom of the
+natives, and they were equally displeased at the orders issued, to set
+at liberty all the Indians who had been wrongfully enslaved. One
+powerful colonist alone refused to obey: Mem de Sa ordered his house to
+be surrounded and instantly levelled with the ground. Such an act was
+certainly calculated to inspire the Indians with confidence in his good
+intentions towards them, at the same time that his vigorous measures to
+punish them for any infraction of their engagements kept them in awe.
+
+Meantime an adventurer of no ordinary stamp, had formed a settlement in
+the finest harbour of Brazil, namely, that of Rio de Janeiro. Nicholas
+Durand de Villegagnon was a native of Provins en Brie, and a Knight of
+Malta. In 1648, he had been employed by Mary of Guise, at the entreaty
+of the French court, to convey her daughter the young Queen of Scots to
+France: in 1651 he was engaged in the defence of Malta, against the
+Pacha Sinan and the famous Dragut Reis, and two years afterwards
+published an account of that campaign. Having visited Brazil in 1558,
+Villegagnon could not be insensible to the advantages that must arise to
+France from having a settlement there; and, on his return to Europe, he
+made such representations at court of these advantages, that Henry II.
+gave him two vessels, each of 200 tons, and a store ship of 100 tons, to
+convey the adventurers who might wish to leave France, and who at that
+time were numerous. Villegagnon, wishing to make use of Coligny's
+interest, gave out that the new settlement was to be a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots, and this answered the double purpose of securing
+the Admiral's friendship, and gaining a number of respectable colonists.
+With these he reached Rio de Janeiro, and made his first settlement in a
+low rock at the mouth of the harbour, where there is now a small fort
+called the Laje, but finding it not sufficiently elevated to resist the
+high tides, he pitched on an island within the harbour, where there is
+only one landing place, and whose form and situation is singularly
+adapted for safety, especially against such enemies as the Indians.
+Those, however, of the Rio had been long accustomed to trade with the
+French, who, if they had not taught them, had at least encouraged them,
+to hate the Portuguese, whom Villegagnon flattered himself that he
+should be able to keep aloof by the assistance of the Savages.
+
+Meantime Coligny had exerted himself to send out assistance of every
+kind; provisions, recruits[12], and protestant ministers. But
+Villegagnon now imagined himself secure in his colony, and threw off the
+mask of toleration. He behaved so tyrannically that many of the Hugonots
+were obliged to return to France, and of them he made the most malicious
+complaints, and concluded by saying, that they were heretics worthy of
+the stake.
+
+[Note 12: Among these was Jean de Lery.]
+
+But nothing is so short-sighted as wickedness. Villegagnon's treachery
+was the cause of the ruin of his enterprise. Ten thousand protestants
+were ready to embark for Coligny, as the island, now called Villegagnon,
+was then named: but the report of those who had returned, stopped them,
+and the colony was left in a defenceless state.
+
+At length the attention of the court of Lisbon had been drawn towards
+the French settlement, and orders were sent to the Captain General to
+examine into its state first, and then, if possible, to take it.
+
+Accordingly, Mem de Sa, accompanied by Nobrega and two other Jesuits,
+attacked it in January, 1560, while Villegagnon was absent in France,
+and demolished the works, but had not sufficient force to attempt
+forming a settlement; and had Villegagnon succeeded in returning with
+the recruits he expected, he would have found it easy to re-establish
+and perhaps revenge himself. But his bad faith deterred the Hugonots
+from joining him, the civil war prevented the government from assisting
+him, and the French colony was lost.
+
+In 1564, Estacio de Sa, nephew of Mem, was sent out from Portugal to
+form a settlement in Rio, but finding his means inadequate to contend
+with the Indians, led on by the few remaining French, he went to San
+Vincente for reinforcements; these, however, only enabled him to keep up
+the war, and to maintain himself in a post he had fortified[13], not far
+from the entrance of the harbour, and near the Sugar-loaf mountain, a
+bare and inaccessible rock, which, from a base of about four hundred
+feet, shoots up to a thousand in perpendicular height, on the west side
+of the bar. He therefore applied to his uncle for succour, who,
+collecting what force he could, led them in person, and arrived in the
+harbour on the 18th of January, 1567. On the 20th, St. Sebastian's day,
+the Indians and French were attacked in their strongest hold, then
+called Uracumiri, and having obtained a decisive victory, the French
+embarked in the four ships they still possessed, and fled to the coast
+of Pernambuco, where they attempted to form a settlement at Recife, but
+were dislodged by the Portuguese of Olinda.
+
+[Note 13: Mr. Southey says this spot is called Villa Velha. But
+there is no place existing in the neighbourhood of that name, nor could
+I find any person at Rio de Janeiro who remembered such a place. It was,
+however, most probably on the site of the present St. Juan, or of the
+fort of Praya Vermelha, which answers exactly to the description.]
+
+Mem de Sa now founded the city of St. Sebastian, more commonly called
+the city of Rio; and for its security the Jesuits, with their Indians,
+fortified both sides of the entrance to the harbour, which is about four
+miles distant from the city across the bay. Before these works, however,
+or the walls of the town were completed, the French made a vigorous
+effort to disturb the rising colony; but it ended in their defeat, and
+their guns were made use of to fortify the mouth of the harbour.
+
+Driven from Rio, the French attempted to form a settlement at Paraiba
+the next year; but the Indians, with the Jesuits at their head, and a
+very few troops, under the commander Martim Leytam, expelled them.
+
+Under Mem de Sa the state had been so prosperous, that though he had
+been Captain-general far beyond the term of his original appointment,
+Don Sebastian, on assuming the crown, continued him in office for two
+years longer, and then named Luiz de Vasconcellos to succeed him. That
+nobleman never reached Brazil. With him sailed a fleet of seven ships,
+bearing, besides the governor, sixty-nine Jesuit missionaries, and a
+number of orphan girls, whose parents had died of the plague, and whom
+the government was sending out to settle in Brazil. The fleet, in
+different divisions, fell in with French and English ships, and the
+Jesuits, save one, to use their own expression, received the crown of
+martyrdom, and the new governor was killed in action off Tercera. As
+soon as his death was known at Lisbon, Luiz de Brito de Almeida was
+appointed to his vacant office; and Mem de Sa just lived long enough to
+witness the arrival of his successor. Nobrega, who had begun that
+system, on which the singular government of the Jesuits in Paraguay was
+conducted, had died a few months before, so that Brazil was deprived
+nearly at once of the two ablest men that had yet been concerned in its
+government.
+
+But Luiz de Brito did not succeed to the government of all Brazil. It
+was judged proper to divide the colony into two captaincies, Rio de
+Janeiro being the capital of the southern division, which included Porto
+Seguro and every thing to the south of it; while Bahia remained the
+capital of the northern districts. There Luiz de Brito fixed his
+residence, and Doctor Antonio Salerna was appointed governor of the
+south. But this division was soon found inconvenient, and the two parts
+were re-united[14] about 1578, the year in which a new governor, Diego
+Laurenco da Viega, arrived.
+
+[Note 14: When the Historia da Provincia de Sancta Cruz, by Pero
+Magalha[=e]s de Gadano, was printed, 1575, they were still separate; but
+Southey's MS. of 1578 says they had been re-united.]
+
+This was the year when the loss of Don Sebastian in Africa threw
+Portugal into the hands of Spain. King Philip, eager to annex that
+kingdom for ever to his crown, offered Brazil, with the title of King,
+to Braganza if he would give up his claim to the crown of Portugal. But
+it was reserved for his descendant to achieve the independence of
+Brazil, and he refused it.
+
+The colony was at this period most flourishing, though not altogether
+able to do without occasional supplies from the mother country. But
+already the original mud-cottages, supported by frame-work and thatched
+with palm-leaves, of the first settlers, had given way to well built and
+handsome houses of stone and brick, covered with tiles as in Europe. The
+reconcave of Bahia had sixty-two churches, and upwards of seventy
+sugar-works: the land was well stocked with cattle, all the kinds of
+orange and lime trees introduced by Europeans had flourished. The
+country abounded in excellent native fruits, and the mandioc furnished
+never-failing stores of bread. Olinda partook of all these advantages,
+and was itself the best built and most populous town in Brazil. Rio de
+Janeiro had become a place only inferior in importance to the other two,
+its natural advantages being still greater, and the climate milder; nor
+were the other captaincies less prosperous.
+
+But the transfer of the crown into foreign hands changed the aspect of
+affairs in Brazil. Inferior to the Spanish American countries in mines,
+it was considered only of consequence as being occupied by Spanish
+subjects, and so forming a barrier against the intrusion of other
+nations.
+
+By this time the English had begun to trade on the coast of Brazil, and
+in 1577 Drake had passed through the Straits of Magellan in his
+memorable voyage round the world. His appearance in the southern seas
+alarmed Philip the Second, now King of Portugal as well as of Spain, and
+consequently Lord of Brazil. He attempted to form a colony and maintain
+a fort in the Straits, in order to prevent future navigators from
+passing; but of it nothing is left but the name, _Port Famine_, which
+attests the miserable fate of the colonists. The English commerce was
+also cut off in Brazil. Some vessels trading peaceably at San Vincente
+were attacked in the harbour by the Spaniards in superior force; one of
+the latter was sunk, and the English escaped next day. In 1686, the Earl
+of Cumberland fitted out an expedition, in which Raleigh served and
+Witherington was admiral, which entered the reconcave of Bahia and
+plundered it, remaining there six weeks, the city being only saved by
+the Indian archers. Baretto, the governor of Brazil, died the next year,
+and was succeeded by D. Antonio Barreiros the bishop, and Christovam de
+Barros as joint governors; and they were soon superseded by Francisco
+Giraldes: he, however, never arrived in the country, and Don Francisco
+de Souza was appointed in his stead.
+
+During his captaincy some search was made after mines by a descendant of
+Caramuru, who offered to discover where he had found the silver of which
+he had services in his house and chapel, on condition of receiving the
+title of Marques. This Philip refused to grant, and the secret, if
+indeed the man had one, died with him.
+
+Meantime the celebrated Cavendish had made one voyage round the world,
+and had committed such ravages on the coast of Spanish America, as not
+even the atrocious habits of naval warfare in those days can excuse. In
+1591, he embarked in a second expedition, arrived in December on the
+coast of Brazil, and took Santos and burned San Vincente. The ships then
+sailed for the Straits, but were baffled in their attempt to pass, and
+returned to the coast of Brazil to obtain provisions. Cavendish, who had
+many great and good qualities, and who might certainly think it
+allowable to supply himself on an enemy's coast, made an attempt on
+Espiritu Santo, but by a mistake in executing his orders it failed, and
+he sailed for England, but died of a broken heart on the passage.
+
+The most remarkable expedition of the English to the coast of Brazil was
+that of Sir James Lancaster to Pernambuco. He had the command of three
+small vessels of 240, 120, and 60 tons. At Cape Blanco he learned that a
+rich carrack from India had been wrecked near Olinda, and that her cargo
+was safely stowed at Recife. He therefore fitted five out of near thirty
+small prizes to accompany him, and built a galley frigate to land with.
+He was also reinforced by Captain Vernon with two ships, a pinnace, and
+a prize, and then sailed direct for Recife, where they arrived in March,
+1595. On Good Friday of that year the town was taken with little
+resistance, and Lancaster permitted not the slightest disorder after the
+place was taken. He fortified the sandy isthmus which connects Recife
+with Olinda, and then proceeded at leisure to stow his ships with the
+goods found in the town, and hired the Dutch vessels lying in the port
+as store-ships. Some French privateers coming in, he also hired them
+with part of the booty to assist in the defence of the place, till the
+lading of the vessels should be completed. The Portuguese made several
+attempts to burn Lancaster's ships, which were all baffled by his
+prudence, and after remaining in possession of Recife twenty days he
+prepared to sail. However, on the very last day of his stay, some of his
+people, both English and French, having advanced too far in a sally
+against the Portuguese, were killed, and the enemy claimed a victory,
+which Lancaster being now ready for sea had no inclination to dispute.
+And this was the last attack made by the English on the coast of Brazil.
+
+But the French had renewed their attempts, and under Rifault and his
+successor De Vaux had succeeded in forming a settlement in the island of
+Maranham, 1611. And shortly afterwards Henry IV. sent Daniel de la
+Touche, Lord of La Rivardiere[15], to examine the country, in order to
+form a permanent colony. His report was favourable; and though on his
+return to France Henry was dead, an expedition of three ships,
+containing 500 men, was fitted out, and in 1612 they arrived on the
+island, speedily conciliated the natives, and the colony promised to
+thrive. But the court of Madrid quickly sent out orders to the governor
+of Brazil to attack the intruders. Various accidents prolonged the
+warfare, and it was not until 1618 that they were dislodged, and a
+permanent Portuguese colony formed. Its distance from the seat of
+government determined the court of Madrid to erect Maranham and Para
+into a separate state, of which the capital was fixed at San Luiz, a
+town and fort built by the French on the island.
+
+[Note 15: In Barbosa Machado's curious collection of pamphlets, in
+the library of Rio de Janeiro, is one by the Capt. Symam Estacio da
+Sylveira, printed in 1624. He had been at the taking of Maranham from
+the French, and his paper is evidently a decoy for colonists. He says,
+that Daniel de la Touche was induced to go thither by Itayuba of the
+_Iron arm_, a Frenchman who had been brought up among the Tupinambas. Is
+this Mr. Southey's Rifault?]
+
+Meantime the Dutch had formed a West Indian Company, trusting that they
+would thereby be able to annoy the court of Spain in their American
+possessions, as they had already done in the East Indies. In 1624, a
+fleet under Jacob Willekins and the famous Peter Heyne was fitted out
+for that purpose. The ships having been separated in a gale of wind,
+Willekins made the Morro de San Paulo, about forty miles south of Bahia,
+where he waited for the rest of the convoy. When it arrived he sailed
+boldly into the reconcave, and St. Salvador was taken almost without a
+struggle. Vandort, the Dutch general, immediately began to fortify the
+place, and proclamations being issued promising freedom and redress of
+wrongs to all who should submit, many Indians, negroes, and Jews
+instantly joined him. But the Portuguese, who had hoped that the Dutch
+had only come to plunder the city, seeing that they were sitting quietly
+down as in a permanent establishment, roused themselves, and after some
+little disagreement as to who should command them, pitched on the Bishop
+Don Marcos Texeira. He fixed his head-quarters on the Rio Vermelho. The
+Dutch were weakened by the departure of Willekins for Holland, and of
+Peter Heyne for Angola, the plan of the West India Company being to
+secure that settlement, in order to have a certain supply of slaves for
+their new conquests in Brazil. Dort had been killed, and there was no
+competent commander. The Bishop's troops harassed those of the city in
+every direction, and the Dutch were prepared to become an easy prey to
+Don Fadrique de Toledo, who had been sent from Spain with a strong force
+to recover the capital of Brazil. They capitulated, therefore, in May,
+1625, and conditioned for being sent to Holland with sufficient arms and
+their personal baggage, leaving the city and forts as they were.
+
+The next year, however, Peter Heyne returned to the reconcave. Every
+precaution was taken against him by the governor. Four large ships with
+men and artillery were placed to intercept him; but in his single ship,
+the rest of his squadron not being able to come up with him, ran in
+between two of them, sunk one, and compelled several others to strike:
+his own ship, however, grounded, and he burnt her. He added four ships
+to his own fleet, loaded four others with prize-goods, and burnt the
+rest. Nor was this his only success; for although the Dutch had been
+baffled in several attempts on the coast, they sent home prizes enough
+to be of national importance.
+
+But a conquest of infinitely more consequence was shortly made; that of
+Olinda, which, in 1630, was taken after a feeble resistance on the part
+of Matthias de Albuquerque. The Dutch general-in-chief was Henrik Loncq,
+the admiral was Peter Ardian, and Wardenburg commanded the troops. The
+latter landed at Pao Amarello, three leagues to the north, while the
+ships kept up a regular fire opposite to the place; consequently the
+Portuguese were surprised, and the towns and forts easily taken.
+
+But the country around continued to be the theatre of a most cruel
+predatory war, during which atrocious cruelties were committed by both
+parties, but chiefly by the Dutch; and while these things were going on,
+a number of negroes had escaped from time to time into the great
+palm-forests, about thirty leagues inland, and had multiplied so that
+they are said to have amounted to upwards of thirty thousand. These men
+were governed by a chief whom they called Zombi: they had some laws, a
+shadow of the Christian religion, and were agriculturists. They harassed
+the Portuguese, and added by their depredations to the general misery.
+
+At length the Dutch government sent out Count Maurice of Nassau, to take
+the command at Pernambuco. He arrived in 1537, and carried on the war so
+vigorously that the Portuguese retired out of the province. He also set
+about reforming the abuses which existed among the Dutch themselves at
+Recife, and having established himself firmly there, he sent one of his
+officers, Jan Koin, over to the coast of Africa, who took possession of
+St. Jorge da Mina, by which a supply of slaves was secured, and leaving
+a garrison there, returned to Recife. The next year, Maurice made an
+unsuccessful attack on St. Salvador. His fleet anchored in the bay of
+Tapagipe; but though he obtained at first some important posts, he was
+finally repulsed and returned with loss to Pernambuco. There he occupied
+himself in building a new town, and making the two first bridges that
+had yet been built in Portuguese America, besides planting trees, and
+improving the fortifications. In 1640 he sent the famous sea-warrior Jol
+into the reconcave, to lay it waste; and he accordingly burnt the whole
+of the sugar-works in the bay, while the Indians who were friendly to
+the Dutch, fell on the land-side of the captaincy, and harassed the
+unhappy settlers in an equal degree.
+
+At length the court of Madrid began to be alarmed for the safety of
+Brazil, and fitted out a large armament for its relief. Storms and
+sickness diminished it, ere it arrived, to nearly one half. That half
+arrived at Bahia, in 1640, under D. Jorge de Mascasentras, Marques de
+Monte Alvam. Before he had time either to make open war, or to
+negociate, the revolution in Portugal, which placed Braganza on the
+throne of his ancestors, took place. The viceroy, unjustly suspected of
+adhering to Spain, was sent home, and a commission, composed of
+Barbalho, Correa, and the bishop, appointed in his stead.
+
+One of the first acts of the restored Portuguese government was to make
+a ten years' truce with the Seven United States. But this did not
+prevent the continuance of hostilities in Brazil, and the other foreign
+possessions of Portugal. Serigipe was surprised, Maranham conquered, and
+Loanda in Angola and St. Thomas's taken.
+
+Notwithstanding these successes, the Dutch government disapproved of
+Count Maurice's administration. Instead of sending home either to the
+States or the Company all the money and produce which he had gained in
+Brazil, he had laid out great part of it, as well as of his private
+fortune, in fortifying the mouths of rivers and harbours, particularly
+Recife, in repairing and beautifying the towns, and in other public
+works, which, looking forward to the permanent establishment of the
+Dutch in the country, he considered as absolutely necessary. He was
+accordingly recalled, and returned to Holland in 1644.
+
+After the departure of Maurice the tyranny of the Dutch became so
+intolerable, that the Portuguese began to rise against it almost
+universally.
+
+Maranham had already been wrested from their hands at the time of his
+returning, and that event seemed to be the signal for the long and
+calamitous struggle that ensued in Pernambuco and the neighbouring
+Captaincies. Joam Fernandes Vieyra, a native of Madeira, had, at a very
+early age, left his native island in hopes of bettering his fortune in
+Brazil. He had succeeded, and at the time we speak of, he was one of the
+richest Portuguese of Pernambuco, and highly esteemed by both his
+countrymen and the Dutch. Against the latter, however, he was animated
+both by patriotism and superstition. They oppressed his people, and they
+were heretics. After waiting for years for a proper opportunity to
+attempt their destruction, he seized the first months of Nassau's
+absence, and communicating his plans to none but to two friends, one of
+whom he commissioned to apply to the government of Bahia in person for
+succour, he waited patiently for an answer. This man, Andre Vidal de
+Negreiros, executed his commission exactly, and shortly afterwards
+Antonio Diaz Cardozo, and sixty soldiers, were sent to Vieyra. He
+concealed them in the woods in the neighbourhood of his dwelling, called
+the Varzea, which was on the plain to the westward of the city, and then
+summoned the Indian chief Camaram and the Negro chief Henrique Diaz[16],
+to his assistance, and communicated his designs to his neighbours.
+
+[Note 16: The following is an extract from one of the letters of
+this Creole Negro: "Faltamos a obedienca, que nos occupava no certam de
+Bahia, por nao faltaremos as obrigacoens da patria; respeitando primeiro
+as leys da natureza, que as do imperio."
+
+_Castrioto Lusitano_.]
+
+Early in 1645 the war began in earnest. The most shocking atrocities
+were committed by both parties, especially towards the Indians, who
+themselves as they were the most faithful allies, were also the most
+inveterate and cruel enemies. In the course of the struggle, which
+lasted until 1654, several leaders on both sides were slain, but none so
+remarkable as the Indian Camaram. He had been educated by the Jesuits;
+he understood Latin, wrote, read, and spoke Portuguese perfectly, but on
+all occasions of ceremony used an interpreter, that he might not in
+public do any thing imperfectly, and thereby derogate from the dignity
+of his chieftainship. When a number of Indians were taken among the
+Dutch, at one of the strong posts of the latter, a relation of Camaram's
+was found among them. These men had all been condemned to death. Camaram
+did not intercede for the life of his kinsman, but he saved his honour:
+he slew him with his own hand, and buried him decently. The rest were
+hanged by the common executioner, and left for the fowls of the air.
+
+At length this horrible warfare was ended. The two battles of the
+Gararapes[17], had decided the fate of the Dutch in Brazil: but it was
+the co-operation of the fleet of the new Brazilian company that enabled
+Vieyra, who was the real commander in this war, although several
+military men of reputation, had, from time to time, had the nominal
+chieftainship, to reduce Recife, and on the 23d of January 1654, to
+present the keys of the city to the Royal Commander Francisco Beretto,
+and to restore to the crown of Portugal the empire of Brazil, after nine
+years of the most cruel war, during which the private fortune, and the
+determined spirit of individuals had sustained the conflict, generally
+without the aid, and often in direct opposition to the commands of the
+court. But men once determined on freedom, or on national independence,
+must in the end overcome all obstacles and vanquish every difficulty.
+
+[Note 17:
+
+Ves Agros Gararapes, entre a negra,
+Nuvem de Marte horrendo
+Qual Jupiter em flegra,
+Hollanda o vistes fulminar tremendo.--DINEZ.
+
+The Portuguese reader will do well to read the whole of Diniz's fine ode
+to Vieyra, as well as that to Mem de Sa, on his conquests at Rio de
+Janeiro. This writer is one of the best of the Arcadian school.--But he
+wrote on subjects of a minor interest, while Guidi wrote to the
+"d'Arcadia fortunate Genti"--of the Eternal city, where every civilised
+being feels he has an interest.]
+
+While these things were going on in the northern provinces, the Jesuits
+had formed their singular establishments in Paraguay, and endeavoured to
+stop, or at least limit the slave hunting of the Portuguese in the
+interior, though without effect. The best part of the colony of St.
+Vincent's had been removed to St. Paul's, a settlement on the plain of
+Piratininga, and had flourished surprisingly. The people had become
+hardy, if not fierce. They had distinguished themselves by the courage
+and perseverance with which they had explored the country in search of
+mines, and the activity with which they had brought in slaves for the
+new settlements. The consciousness of their strength begot in them a
+longing for independence, and seizing the opportunity of the accession
+of the House of Braganza to the throne of Portugal, they attempted to
+set up a king for themselves. Their attempt was baffled by Amador Bueno
+de Ribiero, the very person they intended for their monarch, who, when
+the people shouted "Long live king Amador," cried out "Long live Joam
+IV." and, being swift of foot, ran and took refuge in the Benedictine
+convent; and the same day, as there was no alternative, Joam IV. was
+proclaimed by all the people.
+
+The low state to which Portugal was now reduced, was seen in its effects
+on the government of Brazil. When the appointed Governors, either on
+their own judgment, or in obedience to the orders of the court of
+Lisbon, attempted to carry any new measure into execution which the
+people disliked, it was seldom in their power to enforce it, and they
+could expect little assistance from home. The Jesuits had undertaken the
+defence of the Indians, and endeavoured by every means to restrain the
+practice of making slaves of them, and to mitigate the lot of such as
+were already enslaved. But the Franciscans and some other orders derived
+equal pecuniary benefit with the hunters from the sale of slaves, and
+therefore they opposed them with vehemence. Interest was on the side of
+the Friars, and the most disgraceful scenes took place in various
+captaincies between the parties, the Governors being either not able or
+not willing to interfere with effect.
+
+Meantime, however, the people became accustomed to canvass and to
+understand public questions; their governors began to respect them as a
+real part of the estate; and a value for independence, and a feeling
+that to attain it was in their own power, grew out of these disorders.
+
+Had it been possible to have purified their religion from some of its
+most superstitious observances, and to reform the moral habits of the
+people, the prosperity of the country would soon have been equal to its
+means; but wherever slavery is established it brings a twofold curse
+with it. It degrades both parties even where the slaves are imported.
+How much more then, as was the case here, when they were hunted on their
+own grounds, where all the details, disgusting and iniquitous as they
+are, of the seeking, capturing, and bending to the yoke, pass under the
+eye till the heart grows callous to the cry of the orphan, the grief of
+the widow, and the despair of the parent in being torn from whatever has
+been dear to them?
+
+The history of the Jesuit Vieyra's mission to Maranham is as humiliating
+to human nature, as his sincere exertions in the cause of the suffering
+Indians is creditable to himself; but neither his exertions, nor the
+royal authority, could baffle the selfish cruelty and avarice of the
+people of that captaincy; they broke out into open rebellion in defence
+of their detestable practices, and even when they returned to obedience,
+there was a compromise between humanity and avarice, to which the
+Indians were again sacrificed.
+
+Rio de Janeiro had enjoyed a greater degree of tranquillity during the
+eighty years since its foundation than any other settlement, and its
+trade had increased together with its population; but the southern part
+of its jurisdiction was little more peaceable than Maranham, and not at
+all more inclined to listen to the remonstrances of the friends of the
+Indians. The Paulistas were the most difficult of all to manage; they
+had been the most active and daring of all that hunted either for slaves
+or for mines, and they were not willing to participate with others, far
+less to resign the advantages they had gained by unwearied labour and
+great sacrifices. Their conduct on the restoration of Portugal had
+evinced a desire of more than the freedom of a colony, and their
+neighbours were little less disposed for independence than themselves.
+Santos, and even Rio, had joined them, and had shewn a disposition to
+depose the governor appointed by the crown; and nothing but the
+unimpeachable character and firm conduct of Salvador Correa de Sa e
+Benevides (1658) prevented him from falling a sacrifice to that
+disposition. Bahia continued to be the capital of the Brazilian states,
+and its inhabitants proceeded to beautify it with churches, and
+convents, and nunneries, while they defied the spirit of Christianity by
+the importation of African, as well as the kidnapping Indian slaves.
+Pernambuco was still undergoing the miserable effects of the long and
+desultory war it had sustained; all the bands of government had been
+loosed during that disastrous period; law and justice had fallen into
+disuse; and had there not been a redeeming virtue in the free spirit
+that lived on in spite of the evils among which it had sprung, its very
+emancipation from a foreign power might have been regretted. The negroes
+who had escaped to the Palmares, and whose depredations had been
+disregarded in comparison with the evils of a foreign government, had
+become a real source of ill to the Pernambucans. Although they
+cultivated maize, and mandioc, and plaintains, they wanted every other
+supply. They therefore robbed the Creoles of their cattle, their sugar,
+their manufactured goods, and even of their Mulatto daughters and female
+slaves; till at length the government resolved to free the country of
+them, and called in the aid of a Paulista regiment for the purpose. Ten
+thousand of the negroes bearing arms had assembled in their chief city,
+which was surrounded by wooden walls, leaving the lesser ones
+uninhabited. But their enemies had the advantage of cannon against them,
+and of supplies of every kind; yet once the negroes beat off their
+assailants. But numbers overpowered them, and being weakened by famine,
+their city was forced, and the inmates seized as slaves. Zombi, however,
+and the most resolute of his followers, threw themselves from a high
+rock when they perceived their condition desperate. The Portuguese
+abused their victory, and murdered the rest.
+
+But there was an evil that affected Brazil generally--the too much and
+the too little power of the governors. They had too much power, if any
+appeal lay from them--too little, if they were absolute for the term of
+their government. They were also virtually free from responsibility;
+their opportunities, nay, their temptations to extortion were almost
+irresistible; and, to crown all, the corrupt administration of the laws
+kept pace with the vices and the irregularity of the government. In vain
+had the wisest regulations been made, and the most just decrees issued.
+The judges were in many cases parties concerned; they were so in all
+cases where Indians and negroes were the objects of their judgment, for
+they were possessors of both. Their salaries were insufficient, their
+fees arbitrary. What wonder then if the administration was corrupt!
+
+The cultivation of sugar and cotton had proceeded silently amidst all
+this confusion. The discovery of the gold and diamond mines assisted the
+government, both in Brazil and in the mother country, to make a stand in
+the midst of the eminent peril which threatened, in consequence of the
+losses sustained in the east, while at home there was a scanty and
+impoverished population, ruined manufactures, and, above all, a neglect
+of agriculture, that rendered Portugal dependent on foreigners for corn.
+Every thing was wanted; there was nothing to return; and at the
+beginning of the eighteenth century, Brazil may be truly said to have
+saved Portugal, by covering with her precious metals the excessive
+balance that was against her in every branch of commerce, in every
+department of government.
+
+Yet, though absolute ruin was averted, the weakness of the crown
+rendered it impossible to defend its foreign possessions from the
+attacks of a daring enemy. In 1710, a French squadron, under Duclerc,
+appeared off Rio de Janeiro, but not daring to pass the forts, sailed
+on, and after making several attempts to land a force at the different
+inlets, where he was deterred by the appearance of the militia of the
+country, succeeded at Guaratiba, between thirty and forty miles from
+the city, and thence he marched upon it with about one thousand marines.
+The governor, Francisco Castro de Moraes, made no attempt to stop him
+until his arrival at the city. There the first check the enemy met was
+from F. Francisco de Menezes, a Trinitarian friar, who appeared every
+where, and did what the governor, who remained quietly intrenched in a
+flat space, where the place of the Rosario now is, between two hills,
+ought to have done. The French having divided, one party attacked the
+palace, but the students of the college defended it successfully; and
+after a short, but desperate struggle, the French were overpowered, and
+the victory disgraced by the inhuman conduct of the Portuguese. Duclerc
+and his people were imprisoned and harshly treated. Duclerc himself is
+said to have been murdered in his bed.
+
+The next year drew on Rio de Janeiro a signal punishment for these
+proceedings. The famous Duguay Trouin undertook to inflict it; and
+accordingly, in August, 1711, one year after Duclerc's adventure, he
+arrived off the coast, and taking advantage of a fog, entered the bay,
+notwithstanding the fire of the forts.
+
+The Portuguese government had notice of his design, and had sent out
+stores and ammunition to meet the attack, and had appointed Gasper da
+Costa commander of the troops. But the sudden appearance of the French
+actually within the harbour, seems to have palsied the understanding of
+every person on shore, whose business it should have been to oppose
+them, and the forts and the city were given up almost without a
+struggle.
+
+It would, however, have been impossible for the French to maintain
+themselves in Rio; therefore Duguay Trouin, after refreshing his people,
+ransomed the city for 600,000 cruzadoes. Bad weather alone prevented him
+from laying waste the reconcave of Bahia, as he had done Rio: but he had
+fulfilled the ostensible purpose of his voyage by avenging the treatment
+of Duclerc and his people, and returned to France early in 1712.
+
+These circumstances had awakened the greatest anxiety on account of
+Brazil in the cabinet of Lisbon: and at the peace of Utrecht, 1713,
+every precaution was adopted by the Portuguese ministers to avoid any
+expression that might seem to admit of a free trade by any power
+whatever to Brazil, notwithstanding the agreements to that effect
+actually existing at the time. Disputes without end arose between
+Portugal and Spain concerning the colonies adjoining to the Rio de la
+Plata, and it was especially stipulated that no other power,
+particularly England, should be allowed to form settlements there on
+account of the facilities such settlements might afford for smuggling
+the precious metals out of the country. These had now become the first
+object in Brazil. St. Paul's had been erected into a city, and the
+district of the mines had been formed into a captaincy: the inhabitants
+of the coast flocked to the interior, where new towns were daily
+springing up; all were desirous of a share in that lottery where the
+prizes were so enormous, that the great preponderance of blanks was
+overlooked. Great inconvenience must have been felt by the early
+adventurers to the mines: for so many hands were employed in searching
+for gold, that few remained to cultivate the soil, and provide the
+necessaries of life. Yet that insatiable thirst of gold is a stimulus
+which has led to useful and to honourable things: it is not the love of
+the metal, but the possession of it gives power, and that is the real
+object of most men's ambition: it is certainly that of the ambition of
+all nations, and this object is held legitimate: we account those base
+or wicked who seek the means; we admire those who attain the end. The
+philosophic historian and the poet are alike ready to condemn the man
+who first dug the ore from the mine: the panegyric in prose and in verse
+is lavished on the hero and the patron. But gold furnished the means for
+the hero's conquests and the patron's liberality, and gold, or the worth
+of gold, is the object of both; whether in the form of continued power,
+or of that fame which patronage can bring. Sad indeed has been the waste
+of human life in searching for gold: but have all the mines together
+consumed more men than the single revolutionary war? And have not the
+religious contests among Christians, and their persecutions and
+mutilations and burnings cost many more? I would not justify the gold
+finders; their actions were horrible, their oppressions atrocious; but
+let them have justice: the stimulus was great; urged on by it, they
+performed great things, they braved cold, and hunger, and fatigue, and
+persecution, and death; they persevered, they opened the way to unknown
+lands, they laid the foundations for future civilisation in countries
+which will have reason to bless their discoveries, when the effect of
+their evil deeds, as well as the memory of the brutal customs of the
+savages they so unjustly oppressed, shall have passed away.
+
+But I have neither space nor inclination to follow their adventures, and
+must refer to Mr. Southey's elaborate and excellent account of them.
+Daniel Defoe alone could have so handled the subject as to make
+delightful so dull and so sad a tale. I am but a looker on to whom the
+actions of the present are more interesting than the past, but yet am
+not insensible to the influence that the elder days have had upon us.
+
+Pernambuco had during the half century which had elapsed since the
+expulsion of the Dutch had time to recruit. The sugar plantations had
+reappeared, and the commerce of Recife had become extremely important.
+The merchants, and especially those from Europe, had settled there, and
+the town had increased till it became the second of Brazil; while Olinda
+gradually declined, having few inhabitants besides priests and the
+representatives of the old families of the province, who might be called
+its nobility: still Recife was but a village until, in 1710, it
+solicited and obtained the royal assent to its becoming a town, and
+having a camera or municipal council to govern its internal affairs. The
+jealousy of the people of Olinda and the other old Brazilians was
+violently excited by this concession, which they conceived would raise
+the plebeian traders and foreigners to an equality with themselves.
+After several tumultuous meetings on the subject, three of the ten
+parishes belonging to Olinda were assigned to Recife, and the governor,
+fearing to set up the pillar which marks a township openly, had it
+erected in the night. Fresh disturbances ensued, in which some of the
+magistrates were concerned, and there were not wanting voices to exclaim
+that the Pernambucans had shown they could shake off the strong chains
+of the Dutch, and that they could as easily shake off others and govern
+themselves. The seditious magistrates were arrested and thrown into
+prison. The soldiers were employed to disarm the people; but they had
+now advanced too far to be easily reduced. The governor was fired at and
+dangerously wounded, and proofs were not wanting that the judge and the
+bishop had at least consented to the attempt on his life. The most
+serious disturbances followed: the inhabitants of the whole district
+took up arms, some blood was shed in the course of their contentions
+with the soldiers, and Sebastian de Castro, the governor, weakened both
+in body and mind, was induced to fly to Bahia for safety. Six of the
+chief Pernambucans were now appointed to exercise the functions of a
+provisional government till orders should be received from Lisbon, and
+all Europeans were deprived of their offices and commissions.
+
+But the bishop, who had been at Paraiba since the time when De Castro
+was wounded, now returned to claim his office as governor on the removal
+of the former one. He began to exercise his authority in the king's
+name, and his first act was to declare a general pardon. But he, however
+appears to have been a timid man: willing yet not daring to join the
+party who wished to shake off the yoke of Portugal, and by his
+vacillating conduct betraying both his friends in that party, and the
+trust reposed in him by the crown. At length, in 1711, these
+disturbances were quieted by a new governor, Felix Jose Machado de
+Mendonca. Brazil was not yet ripe for independence; nor indeed could so
+small and ill-peopled a state as Pernambuco have maintained its freedom
+even for a year unconnected with the other captaincies. While these
+things were going on in the captaincies of Brazil, the Jesuits were
+labouring in the interior to reclaim the Indians, with success far
+beyond the apparent means, and some towns, which have since become of
+importance, were built on the coast and on the shores of the Plata,
+particularly Monte Video, in 1733; but the border war, between the
+Spaniards and Portuguese, which was waged on account of these
+settlements, disquieted the neighbourhood for a time. Its importance,
+however, was soon forgotten in the disturbances caused by the treaty of
+division between Spain and Portugal, which forcing the Indians who had
+been reclaimed to emigrate, roused them to a vigorous but short and
+useless resistance, which only began the evils that the Jesuit missions
+were destined to perish under.
+
+The Portuguese government, under the administration of Carvalho,
+afterwards Marquis of Pombal, had begun to attend to, and attempt to
+reform the abuses which existed throughout Brazil, but particularly in
+the newly founded captaincies and settlements, when the war with France
+and Spain broke out in 1762. For a time defence against a foreign enemy
+superseded every other consideration. The first act of hostility in the
+western world was the seizing of the Portuguese settlement of Columbia,
+in the Plata, by the governor of Buenos Ayres, before the squadron
+despatched by the governor of Brazil, Gomez Freyre, could arrive to
+protect it. That squadron consisted of the Lord Clive, of 64 guns, an
+English ship commanded by Capt. Macnamara; the Ambuscade, of 40 guns, in
+which Penrose, the poet, served as lieutenant; and the Gloria, of 38
+guns. The Spanish ships retired before Macnamara, and he ran under the
+guns of the forts of Colonia, in order to retake the place. He had
+nearly succeeded in silencing the batteries, when, by accident or
+negligence, the ship took fire; the enemy renewed their fire;
+three-fourths of the crew of the Lord Clive, among which was the
+captain, were drowned. The other ships were nearly destroyed and obliged
+to retreat; but owing to the neglect of the Spaniards, they were able to
+refit and return to Rio. And this was the most remarkable action of the
+war beyond the Atlantic, and the first in which the English
+distinguished themselves in the defence of Brazil.
+
+Pombal, meantime, having resolved on the suppression of the order of
+Jesuits, overlooked, in the ardour with which he pursued that measure,
+the important services they had rendered, and were daily rendering, to
+one of his favourite objects, namely, the improvement of the condition
+of the Indians. Their plan of discipline, indeed, hitherto had kept
+their pupils rather in a state of childish innocence than of manly
+improvement. Their fault was, that in order to secure obedience, they
+had stopped short of what they might have effected. Their dominion was
+an Utopia; and had it been possible to shut out every European and every
+wild Indian, it might have lasted. But such artificial polities can
+never be of long duration. Some convulsions either from without or from
+within must end them, and that with a more complete ruin than could
+befal states less curiously framed. But the well-intentioned labours of
+the missionaries had produced one decided good effect,--the habits of
+savage life were abandoned, and the advantages of agriculture and
+manufactures had been felt. The rock on which the education of the
+Indians split, was the community of goods. When a man has no property,
+but depends for the supply of his daily wants upon the providence of
+others, he has no incitement to particular exertion. The stimulus to
+industry cannot exist where a man has no hope of growing richer, no fear
+of becoming poorer, no anxiety about the provision of his family. His
+judgment in the portioning and disposing of his property is never called
+forth; all the qualities and virtues that arise out of the practice of
+domestic economy lie dormant, and the man remains an infant. It would
+have been easy to remedy this, by allowing the Indians to possess
+private stock, and to provide for their own families after the first
+generation. The newly reclaimed did require to be provided for, but the
+children growing up in the Aldeas might have been intrusted with their
+own property. They would have become men; and when the removal of their
+spiritual fathers took place, that wide and deep desolation would not
+have overwhelmed them, nor would Paraguay have gone back as it has done
+towards a savage state.
+
+The Jesuits of Brazil were expelled in 1760, in the most cruel and
+arbitrary manner. Those of the Spanish American colonies eight years
+later. Whatever might have been their faults, or even their crimes, in
+other countries, in these their conduct had been exemplary. They had
+been the protectors of a persecuted race, the advocates of mercy, the
+founders of civilisation; and their patience under their unmerited
+sufferings forms not the least honourable trait in their character.
+
+The history of Brazil, for the next thirty years, is composed of the
+mismanagement and decay of the Jesuit establishments; the enlargement of
+the mining districts, particularly in the direction of Mato Grosso; some
+disputes with the French on the frontier of Cayenne; and the more
+peaceful occupations of opening roads, and the introduction of new
+branches of commerce, and the improvement of the old.
+
+This tranquillity was for a moment interrupted by a conspiracy in the
+province of Minas Geraes, headed by an officer named Joaquim Jose de
+Silva Xavier, commonly called Tiradentes. The project of the
+conspirators was to form an independent republic in Minas, and, if
+possible, to induce Rio de Janeiro to unite with it. But their measures
+were most inadequate for the end proposed, and their conduct so
+imprudent, that, although there was a pretty general feeling of
+discontent on account of the taxes and some other grievances, the
+conspirators were all seized before they had formed anything like a
+party capable of resistance, much less of beginning the meditated
+revolution.
+
+The direct effects upon Brazil of the first thirteen years of the
+revolutionary war in Europe were confined to some slight disputes
+regarding the boundaries of the Portuguese and French Guiana, and
+concerning the limits of which, there was an article in Lord
+Cornwallis's negotiations with France, or rather the peace of Amiens in
+1802.
+
+The indirect effects were greater. Being a good deal left to themselves,
+the colonists had leisure to discover what sort of cultivation and crops
+suited best with the climate, and were fittest for the market; and some
+branches of industry were introduced, and others improved, to the great
+advantage of the province. Foreign ships, and even fleets, had also
+begun to resort thither[18]: so that, though the ports had as yet been
+closed against foreign traders, the entrance of men of war, and such
+merchant ships as could find no others to refit in, introduced a virtual
+freedom, which it would afterwards have been impossible not to have
+confirmed.
+
+[Note 18: That under Sir H. Popham, on Sir D. Baird's expedition to
+the Cape of Good Hope, for instance, in 1805, and that of the French
+admiral, Guillaumez, in 1806.]
+
+The court of Portugal meanwhile, as if infatuated by the negotiations of
+France, consented to buy a disgraceful neutrality at the price of
+1,000,000 of livres or 40,000_l._ per month, besides granting free
+entrance to French woollens into the kingdom.
+
+It was in vain that frequent representations were made to the ministry
+at Lisbon on the subject; that the armament at Bayonne, and the refusal
+of Spain to forbid the passage of French troops through her territories,
+were pointed out. The Portuguese forces were marched to the sea-coast,
+as if they apprehended an invasion from England; thus leaving the
+kingdom defenceless on the land side, and the ports were shut against
+English commerce, by a proclamation, dated 20th October, 1807. But the
+importance of Portugal to England, as neutral ground, or, in the event
+of a French government in Spain, as a point whence to attack the great
+enemy, was such, that the resentment which at another time would
+certainly have been openly declared, was suppressed; but a strong
+squadron was always kept up off the coast, partly to watch the
+proceedings on shore, partly to prevent the Portuguese vessels from
+coming out of port, and joining the French and Spaniards.
+
+While this system of watchfulness was kept up in Europe, the English
+ministry was not less attentive to the designs of France on the South
+American colonies. As long as Spain and Portugal continued to pay the
+enormous price in money for their neutrality, which France had demanded,
+the views of Napoleon were better answered than they could have been by
+the possession of all their territory and all their colonies. But the
+moment in which they should become unable or unwilling to pay that
+price, would of course be that of aggression and invasion. So early as
+1796, Mr. Pitt had contemplated the advantages that must arise to
+Britain from the possession of a port in South America, and particularly
+in the Rio de la Plata, nor did he ever afterwards lose sight of it.
+Some circumstances occurred in December, 1804, to draw his attention,
+particularly towards the subject, inasmuch as he had intelligence that
+France was about to attempt to seize on one of the Spanish settlements
+on the first opportunity. But we were then at peace with Spain, and
+however willing to prevent such an aggression on the part of France, and
+to assist General Miranda in his intended expedition to South America,
+it was impossible to co-operate with him, as he earnestly pressed the
+ministry to do, although the advantage to England of securing such a
+market for her manufactures was clearly perceived. Among the officers
+who had been most confidentially consulted by Mr. Pitt, on the
+practicability of obtaining a settlement on the La Plata, was Sir Home
+Popham; and it was probably his knowledge of the views so long
+entertained by that minister, that induced him to take the hazardous
+step, of leaving the Cape of Good Hope so soon after it had been
+occupied by the English forces, in 1806, and taking Buenos Ayres without
+orders to that effect. His immediate motive was, the intelligence he had
+procured, that the squadron of the French admiral, Guillaumez, had
+intentions of touching on the coast of Brazil, entering the La Plata,
+and, if possible, seizing, or forming a settlement there; and some North
+Americans whom he had met, encouraged the undertaking, by observing,
+that to throw open the ports of South America would be a common benefit
+to all commercial nations, but particularly to England.[19]
+
+[Note 19: For the political and commercial views entertained with
+regard to the assisting Miranda, or obtaining for England a port in
+South America, see Lord Melville's evidence on the court martial on Sir
+Home Popham.]
+
+In 1806, the demonstrations of hostilities against Portugal on the part
+of France were so evident, that Lord Rosslyn was despatched thither on a
+special mission, in which Lord St. Vincent and General Simcoe were
+joined with him. His instructions from Mr. Fox, then prime minister,
+were to lay before the ministry of Lisbon, the imminent danger which
+threatened the country, and to offer assistance in men, money, and
+stores from England, to put Portugal in a state of defence, in case the
+government should decide on a vigorous and effective resistance. If, on
+the other hand, Portugal should think itself too weak to contend with
+France, the idea that had once occurred to King Don Alfonso of
+emigrating to Brazil, and there establishing the capital of the empire,
+was to be revived, and promises made of assistance and protection for
+that purpose. If, however, Portugal insisted on rejecting assistance in
+either case, the troops under General Simcoe were to be landed, the
+strong forts on the Tagus occupied by them, and the fleet was to enter
+the river and secure the Portuguese ships and vessels, taking care to
+impress the government and people with the feeling that this was done
+from regard to the nation, and by no means for the sake of selfish
+aggrandisement on the part of England. It appears, however, that the
+French preparations for the invasion were not at that time so far
+advanced as had been imagined, and at the earnest entreaty of the court
+of Lisbon, the troops and the fleet were withdrawn from the Tagus.
+
+On the 8th of August, the next year, however, (1807) Mr. Rayneval, the
+French charge d'affaires at Lisbon, received orders from his court to
+declare to the Prince Regent of Portugal, that if by the first of
+September he did not declare war against England, and send back the
+English minister, recalling the Portuguese ambassador from London, and
+did not seize all the English residents, confiscate their property, and
+shut the ports of the kingdom against the English; and lastly, if he did
+not, without delay, unite his armies and fleets with those of the rest
+of the continent against England, he had orders to demand his passports
+and to declare war.
+
+The Conde de Barca, then prime minister, was certainly aware of the
+preparations of the French government. But with that obstinate blindness
+which sometimes seems to possess men like a fate, he persisted in
+regarding them only as measures to intimidate and harass England. This
+nobleman had been ambassador at the court of St. Petersburg, and on his
+recall to take the first place in the cabinet at Lisbon, he was ordered
+to go by sea to London, and thence to Portugal, but he chose to perform
+the journey by way of Paris, where he saw and conversed both with
+Napoleon and Talleyrand. There cannot be the least doubt but that he was
+duped by those able men. Many considered him as a traitor. But the
+vanity of the Conde, who always said he had gone to judge of these men
+by his own eyes, though it makes him weaker, makes him less wicked, and
+was, perhaps, the true spring of his actions. He it was who carried the
+measures for the detention of the English, the confiscation of their
+property, and the shutting the ports against English commerce: adopting,
+in short, the whole of the continental system. The very day before Junot
+was to reach Lisbon, however, a Paris newspaper, written in anticipation
+of the event, announced that "_The House of Braganza no longer
+reigned_," and that its members were reduced to the common herd of
+ex-princes, &c., giving no very favourable description of them, and
+holding out no very flattering expectations for the future. This
+completely opened the Prince Regent's eyes, and he consented to that
+step, which D. John IV. and Don Jose had contemplated, namely, the
+transferring the seat of his empire to his Transatlantic possessions.
+
+This was in the month of November, 1807, but the events of that month,
+the most interesting that had occurred to Portugal since the revolution
+that had placed Braganza on the throne of his ancestors, will be best
+understood by the following extracts from the despatches received by the
+British ministry from Lord Strangford and from Sir Sydney Smith at the
+time. On the 29th November, 1807, His Lordship writes, after mentioning
+the Prince's departure for Brazil:--
+
+"I had frequently and distinctly stated to the cabinet of Lisbon, that
+in agreeing not to resent the exclusion of British commerce from the
+ports of Portugal, His Majesty had exhausted the means of forbearance;
+that in making that concession to the peculiar circumstances of the
+Prince Regent's situation, His Majesty had done all that friendship and
+the remembrance of ancient alliance could justly require; but that a
+single step beyond the line of modified hostility, thus most
+reluctantly consented to, must necessarily lead to the extremity of
+actual war.
+
+"The Prince Regent, however, suffered himself for a moment to forget
+that, in the present state of Europe, no country could be permitted to
+be an enemy to England with impunity, and that however much His Majesty
+might be disposed to make allowance for the deficiency of means
+possessed by Portugal of resistance to the power of France, neither his
+own dignity nor the interests of his people would permit His Majesty to
+accept that excuse for a compliance with the full extent of her
+unprincipled demands. On the 8th inst. His Royal Highness was induced to
+sign an order for the detention of the few British subjects, and of the
+inconsiderable portion of British property which yet remained at Lisbon.
+On the publication of this order, I caused the arms of England to be
+removed from the gates of my residence, demanded my passports, presented
+a final remonstrance against the recent conduct of the court of Lisbon,
+and proceeded to the squadron commanded by Sir Sydney Smith, which
+arrived off the coast of Portugal some days after I had received my
+passports, and which I joined on the 17th inst.
+
+"I immediately suggested to Sir Sydney Smith the expediency of
+establishing the most rigorous blockade at the mouth of the Tagus; and I
+had the high satisfaction of afterwards finding that I had thus
+anticipated the intentions of His Majesty: for despatches (which I
+received on the 23d) directing me to authorise that measure, in case the
+Portuguese government should pass the bounds which His Majesty had
+thought fit to set to his forbearance, and attempt to take any further
+step injurious to the honour or interests of Great Britain."--
+
+----"I resolved, therefore, to proceed forthwith to ascertain the effect
+produced by the blockade of Lisbon, and to propose to the Portuguese
+government, as the only condition upon which that blockade should cease,
+the alternative (stated by you) either of surrendering the fleet to His
+Majesty, or of immediately employing it to remove the Prince Regent and
+his family to the Brazils."--
+
+"I accordingly requested an audience of the Prince Regent, together with
+due assurances of protection and security; and upon receiving His Royal
+Highness's answers I proceeded to Lisbon on the 27th, in His Majesty's
+sloop Confiance, bearing a flag of truce. I had immediately most
+interesting communications with the court of Lisbon, the particulars of
+which shall be detailed in a future despatch. It suffices to mention in
+this place, that the Prince Regent wisely directed all his apprehensions
+to a French army, and all his hopes to a British fleet: that he received
+the most explicit assurances from me that His Majesty would generously
+overlook those acts of unwilling and momentary hostility to which His
+Royal Highness's consent had been extorted; and that I promised to His
+Royal Highness, on the faith of my sovereign, that the British squadron
+before the Tagus should be employed to protect his retreat from Lisbon,
+and his voyage to the Brazils.
+
+"A decree was published yesterday, in which the Prince Regent announced
+his intention of retiring to the city of Rio de Janeiro until the
+conclusion of a general peace, and of appointing a regency to transact
+the administration of government at Lisbon, during His Royal Highness's
+absence from Europe."
+
+Sir Sydney Smith writes on the first of December the following letter to
+the admiralty:--
+
+His Majesty's Ship Hibernia, 22 leagues west of the Tagus, Dec. 1, 1807.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"In a former despatch, dated 22d November, with a postscript of the
+26th, I conveyed to you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty, the proofs contained in various documents of the
+Portuguese government, being so much influenced by terror of the French
+arms as to have acquiesced to certain demands of France operating
+against Great Britain. The distribution of the Portuguese force was made
+wholly on the coast, while the land side was left totally unguarded.
+British subjects of all descriptions were detained; and it therefore
+became necessary to inform the "Portuguese government, that the case
+had arisen, which required, in obedience to my instructions, that I
+should declare the Tagus in a state of blockade."
+
+(_Sir Sydney then repeats part of Lord Strangford's despatch._)
+
+"On the morning of the 29th, the Portuguese fleet came out of the Tagus
+with His Royal Highness the Prince of Brazil, and the whole of the royal
+family of Braganza on board, together with many of his faithful
+councillors and adherents, as well as other persons attached to his
+present fortunes.
+
+"This fleet of eight sail of the line, four frigates, two brigs, and one
+schooner[20], with a crowd of large armed merchant ships arranged itself
+under the protection of that of His Majesty, while the firing of a
+reciprocal salute of twenty-one guns announced the friendly meeting of
+those, who but the day before were on terms of hostility, the scene
+impressing every beholder (except the French army on the hills) with the
+most lively emotions of gratitude to Providence, that there yet existed
+a power in the world able, as well as willing, to protect the
+oppressed.--I have, &c.
+
+"W. SYDNEY SMITH."
+
+[Note 20: _List of the Portuguese Fleet that came out of the Tagus
+on the 29th of November, 1807._
+
+                    Guns.   Commanded by
+
+Principe Real        84,    Adm. Manoel da Cunha.
+                                 Capt. Manoel da Canto.
+
+Rainha de Portugal   74,    Capt. Francisco Manoel Soetomayor.
+                           _The Princess Dowager and younger daughters
+                            came in this ship._
+
+Conde Henrique       74,    Capt. Jose Maria de Almeida.
+
+Medusa               74,    Capt. Henrique de Souza Prego.
+
+Affonso d'Abuquerque 64,    Capt Ignacio da Costa Quinatella.
+                                 _The Queen and family in this ship._
+
+D. Joam de Castro    64,    Capt. Don Manoel Juan Souca.
+
+Principe do Brazil   74,    Capt. Garca[)o].
+
+Martim de Freitas    64,    Capt. Don Manoel Menezes.
+
+
+FRIGATES.
+
+Minerva              44,    Capt. Rodrigo Lobo.
+
+Golfinho             36,    Capt. Luiz d'Acunha.
+
+Urania               32,    Capt. Tancos, Conde de Viana.
+
+Cherua Princesa S.S. 20,    Commanded by a lieutenant.
+
+
+BRIGS.
+
+Voador               22,     Lieut. Fs. Maximilian.
+Vinganca             20,     Capt. Nicolas Kytten.
+Gaivota              22.
+
+
+SCHOONER.
+
+Curiosa              12,     _Hoisted French colours and deserted._
+
+Of these vessels, the _Martin Freitas_ is now the _Pedro Primero_. The
+_Principe Real_ is the receiving ship at Rio. The _Rainha de Portugal_
+is at Lisbon, as well as the Conde Henrique. The _Medusa_ is the sheer
+hulk at Rio. The three other line-of-battle ships either broke up or
+about to be so. Of the frigates, the Minerva was taken by the French in
+India. The Golfinho is broken up, and the _Urania_ was wrecked on the
+Cape de Verde Islands. The Voador is now a corvette. The Vinganca is
+broke up, and the Gaivoto is now the Liberal.
+
+_List of the Ships that remained at Lisbon._
+
+                  Guns.
+
+S. Sebastao        64,     _Unserviceable without thorough repair._
+Maria Prima        74,     _Ordered for floating battery--not fitted._
+Vasco de Gama      74,[21] _Under repair, nearly ready._
+Princesa de Beira  64,     _Ordered for floating battery._
+
+FRIGATES.
+
+Fenix              48,     _In need of thorough repair_ (broke up at Bahia).
+Aamazona           44,     _Do. Do._ (Do. at Lisbon).
+Perola             44,     _Do. Do._ (Do. at Lisbon).
+Tritao             40,     _Past repair._
+Veney              30,     _Past repair._
+
+]
+
+[Note 21: Hulk at Rio.]
+
+Such are the public accounts transmitted by foreigners to their court of
+one of the most singular transactions that has occurred in the history
+of kingdoms and of courts. Yet such was the state of Europe at that
+time, so momentous the struggle between the principals in the mighty
+warfare that was going on, that the ancient house of Braganza left the
+seat of its ancestors, to seek shelter and security beyond the Atlantic,
+almost without notice and with less ceremony than had formerly attended
+an excursion to its country palaces.
+
+The French Government had waited to invade Portugal till that unhappy
+country had exhausted its treasury, in the payment of the enormous sums
+demanded as the price of its neutrality. French influence had removed
+the Portuguese troops from the mountain passes, where they might have
+opposed the entrance of French armies, and the Prince Regent only
+declared his adherence to the continental system, and arrested the
+English on the simultaneous entrance of three Imperial and Spanish
+armies.
+
+Junot invaded Algarve and passed the Zezere, at the same moment when
+Solano threw himself upon Oporto, and Carafa occupied Alentejo and
+Algarve.--Under these circumstances, the conduct of the ministry, though
+not courageous, was natural, and it was as natural when Lord Strangford
+returned to Lisbon, which, perhaps, he ought not to have left, that the
+last council held in that capital should decide on the emigration of the
+court to Brazil. Had it remained, and Portugal had become a French
+province, the Prince and all his family were prisoners in the hands of
+one who had respected no crown; and besides, England had intimated that
+in that case she must occupy Brazil for her own security. By emigrating
+to Brazil the Prince retained in his hands the largest and richest
+portion of his domains, and secured at least, the personal freedom and
+safety of his family. At the end therefore of the last meeting of his
+councillors the Prince called his confidential servants[22], and ordered
+them to prepare every thing _in secret_ for the embarkation of the court
+on the next night but one. One of these had been actually ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot, and on the next morning to have a breakfast
+ready for him at a house half-way between Sacavem and Lisbon. This man
+had smuggled his family on board one of the ships, he had been night and
+day getting provisions, plate, books, jewels, whatever could be moved on
+board the fleet, and, remaining to the last, was again ordered to
+provide quarters for Junot: but he was fortunate enough to secure a boat
+to carry him off to the fleet, leaving papers, money, and even his hat
+behind him on the beach.
+
+Such is the picture of the hasty embarkation, given by some of the
+attendants on the royal family.
+
+[Note 22: These were the Visconde de Rio Seco, who managed all; the
+Marquis de Vagos, gentleman of the bed-chamber; Conde de Redondo, who
+had the charge of the royal pantries; Manoel da Cunha, admiral of the
+fleet; the Padre Jose Eloi, who had the care of the valuables belonging
+to the patriarchal church.]
+
+The fleets had no sooner got off the land than they encountered a
+violent gale of wind, but by the 5th of December they were all collected
+again; on that day Sir Sidney Smith having supplied the ships with every
+thing necessary for their safety, and having convoyed them to lat. 37 deg.
+47' north, and long. 14 deg. 17' west, left them to go on under the
+protection of the Marlborough, Capt. Moore, with a broad pennant, the
+London, Monarch and Bedford.[23] They proceeded without farther accident
+to the coast of Brazil, and landed at Bahia on the 21st of January,
+1808.[24]
+
+[Note 23: On the removal of the family of Braganza to Brazil, Sir
+Samuel Hood and General Beresford took possession of Madeira, in trust
+for Portugal, till a restoration should take place.]
+
+[Note 24: The Rainha de Portugal, and the Conde Henrique with the
+Princess Dowager and the younger Princesses arrived straight at Rio, on
+the 15th of January. The Martim de Freitas and Golfinho arrived on the
+15th at Bahia for supplies, sailed for Rio on the 24th, and arrived on
+the 30th.]
+
+The Conde da Ponte was at that time governor of Bahia, and is said to
+have been very popular[25]: he had married a lady of high family who was
+not less so, and she possessed, besides the manners of the court, a
+considerable portion of both beauty and talent.
+
+[Note 25: The Conde died in May, 1809, at the age of 35, leaving ten
+children, and an embarrassed estate.]
+
+The reception of the royal party was rendered so agreeable to the Prince
+by the governor and his lady, that he remained at St. Salvador's a
+month, every day being a festival, and then left it with regret. In
+commemoration of the visit, a spot was cleared near the fortress of St.
+Peter's, and commanding a fine view over the whole of the beautiful bay,
+and there an obelisk was erected with an inscription, stating its
+purpose, and the surrounding ground was planted and converted into a
+public garden.
+
+But, however agreeable a residence at Bahia might have been to His Royal
+Highness, the place is too insecure for the purposes for which he
+emigrated. If it is besieged by sea, and the smallest land force gets
+possession of the neck of land between the Cape and Rio Vermelha, it is
+actually without the means of subsistence. The entrance of the bay is so
+wide, that nothing, can prevent ships from going in when they please.
+Whereas, the harbour of Rio is easily defended, it not being possible
+for ships to enter without being exposed to the fire of the forts.
+Besides, it has resources which Bahia has not, being at all times able
+to communicate with the rich province of the Minas, which, besides the
+metals, abounds in corn, mandioc, cotton, coffee, cattle, hogs, and even
+the coarse manufactures such as cotton, &c., for the use of the slaves
+and for ordinary purposes.
+
+Rio was therefore the best adapted for the asylum of the illustrious
+house of Braganza, and, on the 26th February, His Royal Highness sailed
+from Bahia, and arrived in Rio de Janeiro on the 7th March.
+
+Meantime the French troops had occupied Portugal, and Junot, who
+commanded in chief, and had fixed his head-quarters at Lisbon, began by
+disarming the inhabitants, and war between France and Portugal was
+formally announced, eight days before the signature of the treaty of
+Fontainbleau, by which Portugal was divided into three great feoffs,
+which, under the King of Etruria, the Prince of Peace Godoy, and a
+Braganza, if he would submit to the conditions[26], were to be subject
+to the crown of Spain.
+
+[Note 26: Godoy was to have Alentejo and Algarve; Etruria, Entre
+Minho e Douro with the city of Oporto, the rest was to be sequestrated
+till a general peace, when a Braganza was to be placed at its head, on
+condition that England should restore Gibraltar, Trinidad, &c. to
+Spain.]
+
+Junot published a proclamation flattering the people in proportion to
+his oppressions and exactions, and nearly ruined them by a forced war
+contribution of nearly 3,000,000_l._--In addition to this a conscription
+of 40,000 men was raised, and thus the means which Portugal possessed,
+and which, if timely used, might have saved her from invasion were
+turned against her.
+
+The first ministry appointed on the arrival of the court at Rio,
+consisted of Don Rodriguez de Souza Continho, Don Juan d'Almeida, the
+Visconde d'Anadia, and the Marquez d'Aguiar.
+
+The first measure of the court was to publish a manifesto, setting forth
+the conduct of France towards Portugal, from the beginning of the
+revolution; the efforts of the government to preserve its neutrality;
+and detailing all the events which had led immediately to the emigration
+of the royal family. The manifesto also denied having, as the French
+government alleged, given any succours to the English fleet or troops in
+their expedition to the River Plate; and it states, that the French
+government having broken faith with that of Portugal, His Royal Highness
+considered himself at war with France, and declared that he could only
+make peace by consent of, and in conjunction with, his old and faithful
+ally the king of England; and this was all the direct interference of
+the Prince in the affairs of his ancient European kingdom, where a junta
+of five persons was appointed to govern, and where, before the end of
+the year (1808), the battle of Vimiera had been fought, and the
+convention of Cintra had been signed.
+
+The first sensible effect of the arrival of the royal family in Brazil
+was the opening of its numerous ports[27]; and in the very first year
+(1808) ninety foreign ships entered the single harbour of Rio, and a
+proportional number, those of Maranham, Pernambuco, and Bahia. The
+effect of the residence of the court was soon felt in the city of Rio de
+Janeiro. It was before 1808 confined to little more than the ground it
+occupied when attacked by Duguay Trouen in 1712; and the beautiful bays
+above and below it, formed by the harbour, were unoccupied, except by a
+few fishermen, while the swamps and morasses which surrounded it
+rendered it filthy in the extreme. A spot near the church of San
+Francisco de Paulo had been cleared for a square, but scarcely a dozen
+houses had risen round it, and a muddy pond filled up the centre, into
+which the negroes were in the habit of throwing all the impurities from
+the neighbourhood. This was now filled up. On one side of the square a
+theatre was begun, not inferior to those of Europe in size and
+accommodation, and placed under the patronage of St. John; several
+magnificent houses rose in the immediate neighbourhood, the square was
+finished, and another and much larger laid out beyond it, on one side of
+the city, while on the other, between the foot of the mountain of the
+Corcovado, with its surrounding hills, and the sea, every station was
+occupied by delightful country-houses, and the beautiful bay of Boto
+Fogo, where there were before only fishermen and gipsies, soon became a
+populous and wealthy suburb.
+
+[Note 27: 28th January, 1808.]
+
+It is not in my power to give a detailed account of all the transactions
+of this important year. The trade had naturally rapidly increased; the
+money brought by the emigrants from Portugal, had called forth greater
+exertions and speculations in commerce; and in October a public bank was
+chartered in Rio, with a capital of from seventy to eighty thousand
+pounds sterling.
+
+The establishment of a regular gazette naturally took place, for the
+speedier dissemination of whatever tidings might arrive from Portugal,
+where lay the possessions and the interest of the court and the new
+people of Brazil; and though the press, of course, did not boast of much
+freedom, nor indeed would its freedom at that time have been of any
+consequence, it formed the first step towards awakening rational
+curiosity and that desire for reading, which has become not only a
+luxury, but even a necessary, in some countries, and which makes a rapid
+and daily progress here.
+
+On the arrival of the court many of the old Creole families hastened to
+the capital to greet their sovereigns. The sons and the daughters of
+these married into the noble houses of Portugal; the union of the two
+nations became intimate and permanent; and the manners and habits of the
+Brazilians more polished. With the artificial wants that sprung up, new
+industry was excited, especially near the capital; the woods and hills
+were cleared, the desert islands of the bay became thriving farms,
+gardens sprung up every where, and the delicate table vegetables of
+Europe and Africa were added to the native riches of the soil and
+climate.
+
+The numbers of the royal family furnished birth-days for frequent galas,
+the foreigners vied with the Portuguese in their feasts, so that Rio
+presented a scene of almost continued festivity. On the 17th of
+December, the birth-day of the queen, six counts were created, that is,
+Luiz de Vasconcellos e Souza was made Conde de Figuerio, Don Rodrigo de
+Souza Continho, Conde de Linhares, the Visconde d'Anadia, Conde
+d'Anadia, D. Joao d'Almeida de Mello e Castro, Conde das Galveas, D.
+Fernando Jose de Portogal, Conde d'Aguiar, and D. Jose de Souza
+Continho, Conde de Redondo. The Papal Nuncio, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord
+Strangford[28], were honoured with the order of the Tower and Sword; six
+English officers were named commanders of the order of the Cross, and
+five others were made knights of the same.
+
+[Note 28: Sir Sydney Smith had followed the Portuguese court to Rio,
+less as commander of the British naval force in those seas, than as the
+protector of the Braganzas. Lord Strangford had resumed his character of
+ambassador.]
+
+The beginning of 1809 was marked by an event of some importance. By the
+treaty of Amiens, Portuguese Guiana had been given up to France, and was
+now, together with French Guyana and Cayenne, governed by the infamous
+Victor Hughes. It was long since France had been able to send out
+succour to these colonies. The fleets of England impeded the navigation,
+and the demands at home were too urgent and too great to permit much to
+be hazarded for the sake of such a distant possession. The court of Rio,
+therefore, resolved to send a body of troops under Colonel Manoel
+Marquez, to the mouth of the Oyapok. The English ship of war, Confiance,
+commanded by Captain Yeo, accompanied him, and their combined attack
+forced the enemy to surrender on the 12th of January. The terms were
+honourable to both parties: and among the articles I observe the 14th,
+by which it is stipulated, that the botanic garden, called the
+Gabrielle, shall not only be spared, but kept up in the state of
+perfection in which it was given up. War is so horrible, that a trait
+like this, in the midst of its evils, is too pleasing to be overlooked.
+
+The rest of the year passed in Brazil in quiet though important
+operations; many roads were opened through the still wild country in the
+interior; a naval academy was instituted; a school of anatomy was
+founded in the naval and military hospital; and the vaccine
+establishment formed in Brazil in 1804 having declined, it was renewed
+both at Bahia and Rio, and immense numbers of persons of all colours
+were vaccinated.
+
+Meanwhile the Portuguese arms were employed in another quarter of the
+world. The extensive dominions of Portugal in the east had fallen off
+one by one, as pearls from a broken thread. Yet Macao was still
+Portuguese. For twenty years past, it, in common with the coast of
+China, had been plagued with the pirates of the Yellow Sea; till, at
+length, the Chinese government found it necessary to take measures for
+suppressing them, and therefore made a treaty with the Portuguese
+government of Macao, signed by the following personages, on the 23d of
+November.
+
+    MIGUEL DE ARRIGA, Judge.
+    BRUN DA SILVA.
+    JOSE JOAQUIN BARROS, General.
+    SHIN KEI CHI.
+    CHES.
+    POM.
+
+The Portuguese were by this treaty to furnish six vessels of from
+sixteen to twenty-six guns, but being in want of ball and other stores
+they were supplied liberally by the English East India Company's
+factory; and the result was, that after three months' resistance, the
+pirates surrendered their ships, and promised to become peaceable
+subjects, and the people of Macao performed a Te Deum in honour of their
+success; but twelve months elapsed ere the happy tidings reached Brazil.
+
+The great European interests of Brazil and its sovereign might have been
+forgotten in the country itself, during the year 1810, so tranquil was
+it, but for the packets which brought across the Atlantic the details of
+those desperate battles, which the strength and the treasure of England
+were waging in defence of them in the Peninsula. On the 19th of
+February, Lord Strangford and the Conde de Linhares, in behalf of their
+respective governments, signed a commercial treaty at Rio, by which
+great and reciprocal advantages were obtained, and the English were
+allowed the free exercise of their own form of worship, provided they
+built no steeples to their churches, and that they used no bells.
+
+This was followed in the month of May by a formal notice from Lord
+Strangford, that the British Parliament had voted 980,000_l._ for the
+carrying on of the war in Portugal. In fact, England had now taken the
+battle into her own hands, as she had decidedly the greatest interest in
+opposing France; and the royal house of Braganza was at leisure to
+devote its whole attention to its American dominions. Several well
+appointed detachments were sent into different parts of the country for
+the purpose of repelling the Indians, whose inroads had destroyed
+several of the Portuguese settlements, of forming roads to connect the
+different provinces with each other, and, above all, of furthering the
+gradual civilisation of the Indian tribes. Strict orders were given the
+commanders to proceed peaceably, especially among the friendly Indians;
+but such as were refractory were to be pursued even to extermination. To
+further the views with which these expeditions had been formed, a
+proclamation was issued in the month of September, holding out to such
+as should become proprietors and reclaimers of land in the province of
+the Minas Geraes and on the banks of the Rio Doce, all the advantages of
+original donatories and lords paramount; and promising that every
+settlement that should contain twelve huts of reclaimed Indians, and ten
+houses of white persons, should be erected into a villa, with all its
+privileges. The party that was sent up the Rio Doce discovered one
+hundred and forty-four farms that had been ruined by the Indians, and
+which they restored: they formed a friendly treaty with several tribes
+of Puri Indians, whom they found already settled in villages, to the
+number of nearly a thousand. These people were gentle, and not without
+some of the arts and habits of industry; but they were heathens and
+polygamists; not that a plurality of wives was general, or even common,
+for there were only one hundred and thirteen wives to ninety four
+husbands. They do not appear to have been cannibals, though it is
+strongly asserted that the neighbouring Botecudos were so, and that
+having gained a slight advantage over the Portuguese, they had eaten
+four of them who fell into their hands.[29] I confess I am sceptical
+about these anthropophagi. That savages may eat their enemies taken in
+battle I do not doubt; under the circumstances of savage life revenge
+and retaliation are sweet: but I doubt their eating the dead found after
+the battle, and I doubt their hunting men, or devouring women and
+children. With the latter atrocities, indeed, they have not been charged
+in modern times; and as at the period the missionaries wrote the first
+histories of them, it was politic to exaggerate the difficulties these
+useful men had to encounter, in order to enhance their services, it is
+not uncharitable to believe that much exaggeration crept into the
+accounts of the savages, especially if we recollect the miracles
+ascribed in those very accounts to many of the missionaries themselves.
+Besides these measures concerning the Indians, other steps were taken
+for the good of the country of no less importance; several colonies,
+both of Europeans, and of islanders from the Acores, were invited and
+encouraged. The fisheries off the coast were attended to, and
+particularly that of the island of St. Catherine; and on the same island
+sufficient experiments were made upon the growth of hemp, to prove that
+time and industry only were wanting to furnish great quantities of that
+valuable article of a very good quality.
+
+[Note 29: I have in my possession a curious drawing, found in a
+Botecudo cottage, and done by one of the Creole Brazilians, of mixed
+breed, who shows himself hidden in a cave, his white companions dead,
+and they, as well as the soldiers of the black regiment who accompanied
+them, have the flesh stripped from the bones, excepting the head, hands,
+and feet. The Botecudos are represented as carrying off this flesh in
+baskets. These savages appear quite naked, having their mouth pieces,
+and being armed with bows and arrows.]
+
+The year 1811 was the last of the life and ministry of the Conde de
+Linhares, whose views were all directed to the good of the country.
+Fully aware not only of its richness and fertility, he also perceived
+how poor and how backward it was, considering its natural advantages.
+In endeavouring to remedy the evils, he perhaps aimed at doing more than
+was possible in the short time, and under the circumstances, in which
+his active disposition could operate. He had formed roads and planned
+canals; he had invited colonies, which indeed afterwards sunk; but they
+left behind them some of their ingenious practice, and some seeds of
+improvement which have not utterly perished. The possibility of
+navigating both the St Matthew's river and the Gequetinhonha had been
+ascertained; experiments in every kind of cultivation had been made;
+even the tea had been introduced from China. A botanical garden had been
+formed, in which the spices of the East were cultivated with success;
+and perhaps as the greatest possible good, a public library had been
+formed, and its regulations framed on the most liberal principles.
+
+Towards the end of 1811 a royal decree was issued, assigning 120,000
+crusadoes per annum to be taken from the customs of Bahia, Pernambuco,
+and Maranham, for forty years, to the Portuguese, who had suffered
+during the French war; a measure regarded even then with jealousy by the
+northern captaincies. But they all continued tranquil for the present,
+and seemed to attend only to domestic improvement. New buildings, both
+for use and ornament, arose in the cities. Maranham and Pernambuco
+improved their harbours. Bahia, besides the handsome theatre opened
+there in 1812, paved her streets; and at Rio, a subscription of 30,000
+crusadoes was raised towards beautifying the palace square, completing
+the public gardens, and draining the campo de Sta. Anna.
+
+In 1813, some disputes arose between the court of Rio and England on
+account of the slave trade. Three ships had been captured by the British
+squadron off the coast of Africa, while certainly engaged in illegal
+_slaving_; remonstrances were made, and the matter continued suspended
+until after the congress of Vienna, when that illustrious meeting,
+though most of its highest and most powerful members had exclaimed
+loudly against the villanous practice, suffered it to be carried on.
+Then indeed England consented to pay 13,000_l._ to indemnify the
+Portuguese slave traders for their loss (July, 1815)!
+
+In the same year there appears to have been some discontent manifested,
+or suspected in the provinces. Many of the salaries of officers, both
+civil and military, remained unpaid; yet there were exactions, the more
+grievous, because they were irregular, in every department; the
+administration of justice was notoriously corrupt; the clergy had fallen
+into disorder and disrepute; and though much that was useful had been
+done, yet that was forgotten, especially in the distant provinces, and
+such a portion of discontent existed, that various officers who had come
+to Rio either on private business or to remonstrate on public wrongs,
+were peremptorily ordered to return to their own provinces.
+
+It was wisely done at this juncture, to take off the public attention
+from such vexations by a measure at once just and gratifying to the
+pride of the Brazilians: by an edict of the 16th of December, 1815,
+Brazil was raised to the dignity of a kingdom, and the style and title
+altered so as to place it on an equal footing with Portugal. For some
+months addresses of thanks and congratulation poured in to the king from
+various provinces, and the feasts and rejoicings on that happy occasion
+occupied the people to the exclusion of all other considerations.
+
+Meantime the victories of the allies in Europe, having caused the exile
+of Napoleon to Elba, the necessity for an English guardian squadron at
+Rio had ceased; and accordingly the British establishment was broken up,
+and the stores sold, and the family of Braganza, again independent of
+foreign aid, began to renew its connections with the other courts of
+Europe.
+
+These negotiations suffered some little interruption from an event which
+had long been expected, namely, the death of the queen, on the 20th of
+March, 1816, whose state, both of body and mind, had long precluded her
+from all share in public affairs. She was buried with great pomp in the
+church of the convent of the Ajuda; and, as is usual, dirges were sung
+for her in all the churches in the kingdom.
+
+In the month of June, the Marquis Marialva was received at Paris as
+ambassador of Portugal and Brazil, and shortly afterwards the way having
+been prepared by an inferior minister, he went to Vienna, to negotiate a
+marriage between Don Pedro de Alcantara, Prince of Portugal and Brazil,
+and the Archduchess Maria Leopoldina, which was happily effected. On the
+28th of November, she was privately contracted at Vienna to the prince.
+On the 17th of February following, the contract was made public, and on
+the 13th of May she was married by proxy, the Marquis Marialva standing
+for Don Pedro; but it was not until the 11th of November that she
+arrived at Rio. The line of battle ship Joam VI. had been sent along
+with two frigates for her to Trieste, the voyage was performed without
+accident, and the person the most important to the hopes and happiness
+of Brazil, was welcomed with enthusiasm by all classes of people.
+
+In the autumn preceding, two of the Infantas of Portugal had been
+married to Ferdinand the 7th of Spain, and his brother the Infant Don
+Carlos.
+
+But the frontier of Brazil to the southward now began to feel the effect
+of those disturbances which had long agitated Spanish South America. The
+chief Artigas showed a disposition to encroach on the Portuguese line,
+and, therefore, a corps of volunteers had been formed for the purposes
+of observation, and the Porte da Santa Theresa had been occupied in
+order to check the motions of that active leader: during the autumn of
+1816, several skirmishes took place, but the arts of negotiation as well
+as of war were resorted to, and on the 19th of January, 1817, the keys
+of Montevideo were delivered up to the Portuguese general Lecor, by
+which the long-wished-for command of the eastern bank of the Plata was
+obtained.
+
+Meantime the discontents in the northern provinces had broken out into
+open insurrection, in the captaincy of Pernambuco. The people of
+Recife, and its immediate neighbourhood, had imbibed some of the notions
+of democratical government from their former masters the Dutch. They
+remembered besides, that their own exertions, without any assistance
+from the government, had driven out those masters, and had restored to
+the crown the northern part of its richest domain. They were, therefore,
+disposed to be particularly jealous of the provinces of the south,
+especially of Rio, which they considered as more favoured than
+themselves, and they were disgusted at the payments of taxes and
+contributions, by which they never profited, and which only served to
+enrich the creatures of the court, while great abuses existed,
+especially in the judicial part of the government, which they despaired
+of ever seeing redressed. Such were the exciting causes of the
+insurrection of 1817, in Pernambuco, which threatened for many months
+the peace, if not the safety of Brazil. The example of the Spanish
+Americans had no doubt its weight, and a regular plan for obtaining
+independence was formed, troops were raised and disciplined, and Recife
+being secured, fortifications were begun at Alagoas and at Penedo.
+
+The insurgents, however, had probably miscalculated the degree of
+concurrence or assistance they should meet with from their neighbours.
+The people of Serinhaem as soon as the insurrection was known, namely
+the middle of April, posted themselves on the Rio Formosa as a check on
+that quarter, and the king's troops under Lacerda, marched immediately
+from Bahia. The Pernambucan leader Victoriano, having attacked the Villa
+de Pedras, received a decided check from a body of royalists, under
+Major Gordilho, who had been sent forward by Lacerda, on the 21st: and
+by the 29th Gordilho had occupied that post, as well as Tamandre, where
+he was not long afterwards joined by Colonel Mello, with a strong
+reinforcement.
+
+Meantime the Pernambucan chief, Domingos Jose Martins, was actively
+employed in collecting troops, and forming guerilla parties, in order to
+harass the marches of the enemy. These parties were headed by
+Cavalcante, a man of wealth and family, aided by a priest, Souto, a
+bold and enterprising man, who was far from being the only
+ecclesiastical partisan. On the 2d of May, a vigorous attack was made on
+Serinhaem, by the famous Pernambucan division of the south, which had
+hitherto received no check; but the assailants were repulsed with the
+loss of their artillery and baggage, and a column under Martins coming
+up met with the same fate, on which he drew off his people with those of
+the south, to the ingenio of Trapiche. On the 6th of May they left that
+position, and meeting the royalists under Mello, suffered a complete
+defeat. Their chiefs were either killed or taken; and of the latter some
+were exiled, others imprisoned, and three, Jose Luiz Mendonca, Domingos
+Jose Martins, and the priest, Miguel Joaquim de Alameida, were hanged in
+Bahia.
+
+At this juncture Luiz do Rego Barreto was appointed by the government at
+Rio to the office of captain-general of Pernambuco. He was a native of
+Portugal, and had served with distinction under Lord Wellington. Of a
+firm and vigorous mind, and jealous of the honour of a soldier, he was
+perhaps too little yielding to the people and the temper of the times.
+The severe military punishments inflicted on this occasion certainly
+produced irritation, which though it did not break out immediately, was
+the cause of much evil afterwards, and brought an odium upon that
+gallant soldier himself, from which his high character in other
+situations could not shield him.
+
+This year the ministry underwent a complete change. The Marquis
+d'Aguiar, who had succeeded to the Conde de Linhares, died in January,
+and the Conde da Barca in June; when the Conde de Palmela became prime
+minister, Bezerra became president of the treasury, the Conde dos Arcos
+secretary for transmarine and naval affairs, the Conde de Funchal
+counsellor of state, and Don Tomas Antonio de Portogal secretary to the
+house of Braganza.
+
+I cannot pretend to speak of the character or measures of these or any
+other Portuguese or Brazilian ministers. My opportunities of information
+were too few; my habits as a woman and a foreigner never led me into
+situations where I could acquire the necessary knowledge. I wish only to
+mark the course of events, and in as far as they are linked with each
+other, the causes of those effects which took place under my own eyes.
+
+In the early part of 1818, some additional restrictions concerning the
+slave trade, which had been agreed to by Conde de Palmela during the
+last year at London, were published at Rio, and a commission of English
+and Portuguese jointly was formed for the examining into and deciding on
+causes arising out of the treaties on that most important subject, a
+certain number of commissioners being appointed to reside in the
+different ports in Africa and Brazil, where the trade was still
+considered lawful. That year opened at Rio with unusual festivity. On
+the 22d of January, a great bull-feast was given at San Christovam, the
+royal country house, in honour of the young princess's birth-day; it was
+followed by a military dance, in which the costume of the natives of
+every part of the Portuguese dominions in the east and west were
+displayed. Portugal and Algarve, Africa and India, China and Brazil, all
+appeared to do homage to the illustrious stranger. Music, in which the
+taste of the king was unrivalled, formed a great part of the
+entertainment, and never perhaps had Brazil witnessed so magnificent a
+festival.
+
+On the 6th of February the coronation of his majesty, John VI., took
+place, and these peaceful festivities gave a character to the year,
+which was remarkably quiet, the only public acts of note being the
+farther prosecution of the plans for civilising the interior, by
+facilitating the communications from place to place, and reclaiming the
+border tribes of Indians.
+
+The following year was not less tranquil. The birth of the young
+princess, Donna Maria da Gloria, was an event to gratify both the court
+and the people of Brazil. They had now the heir of their kingdom born
+among them, a circumstance which they were disposed to hail as a pledge
+that the seat of government would not be removed from among them.
+
+The early part of 1820 was disturbed by some irruptions of the Spanish
+Americans under Artigas, on the eastern side of the Plata. The
+Portuguese troops, however, soon repulsed him, and strengthened their
+line by the occupation of Taquarembo, Simar, and the Arroyo Grande.
+
+Meantime the peace in Europe had not brought back all the tranquillity
+that was expected from it. In vain did the old governments expect to step
+back into exactly the same places they had occupied before the
+revolutionary war. The Cortes had assembled in Spain. Naples had been
+convulsed by an attempt to obtain a constitution similar to that
+promulgated by the Spanish Cortes; and now Portugal began to feel the
+universal impulse. Lisbon and Oporto were both the seats of juntas of
+provisional government, and both assembled Cortes to take into
+consideration the framing of a new constitution, and the reformation of
+ancient abuses. On the 21st of August the Cortes of Lisbon had sworn to
+adopt in part the constitution of the Spanish Cortes, but it was not
+until the month of November that the government of Brazil made public
+the recent occurrences in the mother country. Indeed it was not to be
+expected that Brazil should remain unconscious of the proceedings of
+Europe. The provinces were all more or less agitated. Pernambuco was as
+usual foremost in feeling, and in the expression of feeling. A
+considerable party had assembled at about thirty-six leagues from
+Olinda. They declared their grievances to be intolerable, and that
+nothing but a total reform in the government should reconcile them to
+longer subjection to the government of Rio. The royalist troops were
+sent out against them and were victorious, after an action of six hours,
+in which they lost six officers and 19 men killed, and 134 wounded. The
+loss on the other side was much greater, and as usual severe military
+executions increased the evils of the civil war, at the same time that
+they farther exasperated the people, and prepared them for a future and
+more obstinate resistance.
+
+Bahia was far from tranquil. The old jealousy which had subsisted from
+the time the seat of government had been transferred from the city of
+St. Salvador to Rio, combined with other causes, tended to increase the
+desire of a constitutional government, from which all good was to be
+expected, and under which, it was hoped, that all abuses would be
+reformed. Rio itself began to manifest the same feelings. The provinces
+of St. Paul's and the Minas were always ready to unite in any cause that
+promised an increase of freedom; and the whole country seemed on the
+brink of revolution, if not civil war.
+
+The court party, however, still flattered themselves that the
+determination of the King to remain in Brazil, instead of returning to
+Lisbon to put himself into the power of the Cortes, would be so grateful
+to the Brazilians, that they would be contented to forego the probable
+advantages of a constitution, for the sake of the positive good of
+having the seat of government fixed among themselves. But it was too
+late; the wish for improvement had been excited. The administration had
+been too corrupt, the exactions too heavy to be longer borne, when
+reform appeared to be within reach. The very soldiers became possessed
+with the same spirit, and though highly repugnant to the King's
+feelings, it soon became evident that a compliance with the wishes of
+the people and with the constituton, as declared by the Cortes at
+Lisbon, was inevitable.
+
+It is said, that some of the wisest ministers hail long pressed His
+Majesty to a compliance with the wishes of his people, but in vain. His
+reluctance was unconquerable, until at length, perceiving that force
+would certainly be resorted to, he adopted a half measure which probably
+accelerated the very event he was anxious to avoid.[30] On the 18th of
+February, 1821, the King accepted as a junta, to take into consideration
+such parts of the constitution as might be applicable to the state of
+Brazil, the following persons:--
+
+[Note 30: Some have imagined that a paper published at Rio, written
+by a Frenchman, and supposed to have been in the pay of the then
+ministry, desirous of keeping the king in Brazil, had great effect on
+the subsequent events; and that greater still had been produced by the
+revolution of the 10th of February, at Bahia; but the motives of action
+were the same in all Brazil; the event must have been the same at Rio,
+whether Bahia had stirred or not, though, perhaps, it might be
+accelerated by that circumstance.]
+
+Marquez de Altegrete--_President_
+Baron de St. Amaro.
+Luiz Jose de Carvalho Mello.
+Antonio Liuz Pereiro da Cunha.
+Antonio Rodriguez Velloso dc Oliviera.
+Joa[)o] Severiano Maciel da Costa.
+Camillo Maria Tonelet
+Joa[)o] dc Souza de Mendonca Costa Real.
+Jose da Silva Lisboa.
+Mariano Jose Pereira da Fonseca.
+Jav[)o] Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida.
+Francisco Xavier Pires.
+Jose Caetano Gomez.
+
+
+_Procurador da Casa._
+
+Jose de Oliviera Botelho Pinto Masquiera.
+
+
+_Secretarios._
+
+Manoel Jacinto Noguerra de Gama.
+Manoel Moreira de Figueiredo.
+
+
+_Secretaries Sustituti._
+
+O Coronel Francisco Saraiva da Costa Refoios.
+O Desembargador Joa[)o] Jose dc Mendonza.
+
+These persons were all anxious to retain the King in Brazil. Most of
+them Brazilians, they had felt the advantage of having the seat of
+government fixed among themselves, and though the King's foreign allies
+and his Portuguese subjects had pressed him to return to Europe, his own
+dread of the Cortes of Lisbon, together with their natural desire to
+detain him in Brazil, produced on the 21st a manifesto, describing His
+Majesty's affection and relianceon his Brazilian subjects, and stating,
+that he was resolved to send the Prince Don Pedro to Lisbon, with full
+powers to treat on his behalf with the Cortes, whom he seems to have
+considered as subjects in rebellion.
+
+The Prince was also to consult with the Cortes concerning the drawing up
+of a constitution, and the King promised to adopt such parts of it as
+might be found applicable to existing circumstances and to the peculiar
+situation of Brazil. This manifesto appears to have produced an effect
+very different from what was intended. At four o'clock in the morning of
+the 26th, all the streets and squares of the city were found full of
+troops. Six pieces of artillery were planted at the heads of the
+principal streets, and the most lively sensation agitated every part of
+the city of Rio. As soon as this circumstance could be known at San
+Christova[)o], the Prince Don Pedro, and the Infant Don Miguel, came into
+the city. The Camara[31] was assembled in the great saloon of the
+theatre.[32] The Prince, after conferring for a short time with the
+members of that body, appeared upon the balcony of the saloon, and read
+to the people and the troops, a royal proclamation, antedated the 24th,
+securing to them the Constitution, such as it should be framed by the
+Cortes of Lisbon. This was received with loud cries of Viva el Rei, Viva
+a Religia[)o], Viva a constituica[)o]. The Prince then returned to the saloon,
+and ordered the secretary of the Camara to draw up the form of the oath
+to be taken to observe the constitution, and also a list of a new
+ministry, to be submitted to the people for their approbation. The list
+of ministers was first read, and each individually approved.[33]
+
+[Note 31: The whole municipal body.]
+
+[Note 32: The square in front of the theatre, from its size and
+situation, was most fit for the assembly of the people and troops on such
+an occasion.]
+
+[Note 33:
+
+_New Ministers._
+
+Vice-admiral and Commander-in-chief Quintella, secretary of state.
+Joaquin Jose Monteiro Torres,
+  minister of marine, and secretary for transmarine affairs.
+Silvestre Pinhero Fereiro, secretary for foreign affairs.
+Conde de Louca, head of the treasury.
+Bishop of Rio, president of the board of conscience.
+Antonio Luiz Pereiro da Cunha, head of police.
+Jose Gaetano Gomes, grand treasurer.
+Joao Fereiro da Costa Sampaio, second treasurer.
+Sebastian Luiz Terioco, fiscal.
+Jose da Silva Lisboa, literary department.
+Joao Rodriguez Pereira de Almeida, director of the bank.
+----Barboza, police.
+Conde de Aseca, head of the board of trade.
+Brigadier Carlos Frederico da Cunha, commander-in-chief, &c.
+
+]
+
+His Royal Highness then proceeded to take the oath for his father, in
+the following form:--
+
+"I swear, in the name of the King, my father and lord, veneration and
+respect for our holy religion; to observe, keep, and maintain for ever
+the constitution such as established by the cortes in Portugal." The
+bishop then presented to him the holy Gospels, on which he laid his
+right hand, and solemnly vowed, promised, and signed the same.
+
+The Prince then took the oath in like manner for himself, and was
+immediately followed by his brother, the Infant Don Miguel, after whom
+the ministers and a multitude of other persons crowded to follow his
+example. Meantime the Prince rode to the King at his country seat of Boa
+Vista, at San Cristovao, to inform him of all that had passed, and to
+entreat his presence in the city, as the best means of securing order
+and confidence. His Majesty accordingly set off immediately, and arrived
+at the great square at about eleven o'clock, when the people took the
+horses from his carriage and dragged him to the palace, the troops
+following as on a day of gala, and forming in the square before the
+doors. At one of the centre windows the King presently appeared, and
+confirmed all that the Prince had promised in his name, declaring at the
+same time his perfect approbation of every thing that had been done. The
+troops then dispersed, and the King held a court, which was most
+numerously attended; and the day ended at the opera, the people again
+assembling to drag the King's carriage thither.
+
+It would be curious to investigate the feelings of princes on occasions
+so momentous to themselves and to their people. Joam VI., passionately
+fond of music, was dragged by a people, grateful for a boon granted that
+very day, to a theatre built by himself, where all the music vocal and
+instrumental was selected with exquisite taste, and where the piece
+presented was a decided favourite.[34] Yet it may be questioned whether
+there existed in his wide dominions one heart less at ease than his
+own. All his feelings and prejudices were in favour of the ancient order
+of things, and this day those feelings and prejudices had been obliged
+to bend to the spirit of the times, to a wide-spread desire for freedom,
+to every thing, in short, most contrary to the ancient system of
+continental Europe.
+
+[Note 34: Rossini's Cenerentola.]
+
+The next day[35], there was nothing but joy in the city, the great
+saloon was again crowded with persons eager to sign the oath to the
+constitution, illuminations, feux de joie, and fireworks succeeded; and
+at the opera, Puccito's Henrique IV. was ordered in compliment to the
+King. But he was too much fatigued with the events of the last two days
+to go, and when the curtain of the royal box was drawn up, the pictures
+only of the king and queen appeared; but they were received with loud
+acclamations, as if the royal personages themselves had been present.
+
+[Note 35: The 27th, on which day Messrs. Thornton, Grimaldi, and
+Maler, ministers from England and France, waited on His Majesty. The
+different motions or interferences of the members of the diplomatic body
+scarcely concern this period. There is no doubt but that they were busy.
+But circumstances which they could not control, though they might
+disturb, brought about the revolution of the 26th, the visible facts
+alone of which I pretend to give.]
+
+Thus was a most important revolution brought about without bloodshed,
+and almost without disturbance. The junta occupied itself seriously on
+the business of the constitution, and began by publishing some edicts
+highly favourable to the people, and, among others, one insuring the
+liberty of the press.
+
+Meantime Bahia, actuated by the same spirit as Rio, had anticipated the
+revolution at that place. On the 10th of February the troops and people
+assembled in the city, the magistrates were called on to take an oath to
+adhere to the constitution, a provisional government was formed, and
+troops were raised in order to maintain the constitution, in case the
+court at Rio should be adverse to its adoption. Among these the most
+forward was a small body of artillery, formed of the students at the
+different colleges and schools of the city. The new government early
+began to manifest a determination to be no longer subordinate to Rio,
+and to acknowledge no other authority than that of the Cortes at
+Lisbon. An intimation of what had taken place at Bahia was immediately
+forwarded to Luiz do Rego at Pernambuco, who assembled the magistrates,
+the troops, and the people, on the 3d of March, in Recife, and there,
+along with them, solemnly took the oath to adhere to the constitution; a
+measure which gave universal satisfaction. About the same time, several
+of the towns in the Comarca of Ilheos also took the oaths to maintain
+the constitution; and it appeared evidently that the whole country was
+equally desirous of a change, in hopes of relief from the vexations it
+had so long suffered under.
+
+But the agitation of the capital was by no means at an end. Disputes
+arose concerning the election of deputies to the cortes, which, however,
+ended in adopting the method laid down in the Spanish constitution. The
+troops found it necessary to publish a declaration, denying that they
+had any factious views when they assembled on the 26th of February, and
+alleging that they appeared as citizens anxious for the rights of the
+whole community. The people assembled in different places, and are said
+to have insulted several persons, particularly the members of the
+council which existed immediately before the revolution; and in order to
+save three of them from the fury of the mob, they were placed in
+confinement for three days, and then liberated, with a proclamation
+tending to exculpate them from all criminal charges, and explaining the
+motives of their arrest.
+
+The King meanwhile had resolved on returning to Lisbon, and on the 7th
+of March he published a proclamation announcing his resolution, together
+with an order for such deputies as should be elected by the time of his
+departure, to go with him to attend the Cortes, and promising to find
+means of conveying the rest when they should be ready.
+
+Every thing now appeared to proceed in quiet. The preparations for His
+Majesty's departure went on, and he resolved to take the opportunity of
+the assembling of the electors on the 21st of April, to choose the
+deputies to the Cortes, to submit to them the plan for the government of
+Brazil which he had laid down, in order to receive their sanction.
+These electors were assembled in the exchange, a handsome new building
+on the shore, and thither a great concourse of people had flocked, some
+purely from curiosity, some from a desire, imagining they had a right,
+to express their opinion on so important a subject. The result of that
+meeting was a deputation sent to the king, insisting on the adoption of
+the entire Spanish constitution. The decree of the assembly received the
+signature of the King. But the members of that assembly met again on the
+22d, many of whom had no legal title to be present, and proceeded to
+propose to stop the ships prepared for the King's return to Portugal.
+Some went so far as to propose an examination of the vessels, in order
+to stop the exportation of the quantity of wealth known to be on board
+of them, and the meeting at length assumed so alarming an aspect, that
+His Majesty revoked his royal consent to the act passed on the 21st, and
+sent a body of soldiers to intimidate the assembly. Unhappily, an order
+proceeding from some quarter, never known or never acknowledged, caused
+the soldiers to fire into the exchange, where the unarmed and innocent
+electors, as well as the others who had crowded thither, it might be,
+with less pure motives, were assembled, but all were there on the faith
+of the royal invitation given through the judge of the district.
+
+About thirty persons were killed, many more were wounded: and the whole
+city was filled with an indescribable consternation. The sudden stop
+that was put to this strange, unwise and cruel attack, has always been
+attributed to the Prince Don Pedro, who, on this as on other occasions,
+has well merited the title of perpetual defender of Brazil. The attack
+itself, perhaps unjustly, was imputed to the Conde dos Arcos by some, to
+other individuals by others, according as passion or party directed the
+suspicion: the truth is, that it seems to have been the result of
+ill-understood orders, given hastily in a moment of alarm, for it is
+impossible to think, for an instant, that any man could wantonly have so
+cruelly irritated the people at the very time when so much depended on
+their tranquillity. This shocking event, however, seems to have
+quickened the King's resolution to leave Brazil. That very day he made
+over the government of that country to the Prince, with a council to be
+composed of
+
+    The Conde dos Arcos, Prime Minister.
+    Conda da Louca, Minister of Interior.
+    Brigadier Caula, Minister of War.
+
+And in case of the prince's death, the regency to remain in the hands of
+the Princess Maria Leopoldina.
+
+The next day the King publicly addressed the troops, recommending to
+them fidelity to the crown and constitution, and obedience to the Prince
+Regent, and as a royal boon on leaving the army, promising a great
+increase of pay to all, and that the Brazilian officers should be put on
+the same footing as those of the Portuguese army. The ministers who
+advised this step, acted cruelly towards the government they left
+behind. The treasury was left empty at the King's departure, yet
+increase of pay beyond all precedent was promised, as well as other
+burdens on the prince's revenue. His Majesty published on the same day,
+a farewell to the inhabitants of Rio; and it cannot be imagined that he
+could leave the place which to him had been a haven of safety, during
+the storm in which most of his brother monarchs had suffered, without
+feelings of regret, if not affection.
+
+The Prince also addressed the Brazilians on assuming the government by a
+proclamation, which, as it sets forth his intentions, I shall give
+literally:
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil;
+
+"The necessity of paying attention to the general interests of the
+nation before every other, forces my august father to leave you, and to
+intrust me with the care of the public happiness of Brazil, until
+Portugal shall form a constitution, and confirm it.
+
+"And, as I judge it right, in the present circumstances, that all should
+from this time understand what are the objects of public administration
+which I have principally in view, I lose no time in declaring, that
+strict respect for the laws, constant vigilance over the administration
+of the same, opposition to the quibbles by which they are discredited
+and weakened, will be the objects of my first attention.
+
+"It will be highly agreeable to me to anticipate all such benefits of
+the constitution as shall be compatible with obedience to the laws.
+
+"Public education, which now demands the most especial attention of the
+government, will be provided for by every means in my power.
+
+"And in order that the commerce and agriculture of Brazil may be in a
+prosperous state, I shall not cease to encourage whatever may favour
+these copious sources of national riches.
+
+"I shall pay equal attention to the interesting subject of reform,
+without which it will be impossible to use liberal means for the public
+good.
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil! all these intentions will be frustrated if
+certain evil-minded persons should accomplish their fatal views, and
+persuade you to adopt antisocial principles, destructive of all order,
+and diametrically opposed to the system of liberality, which from this
+moment it is my intention to follow."
+
+The ceremonies of taking leave, occupied the following day. On the 24th,
+the royal family embarked, and with it many of the Portuguese nobles who
+had followed their king into exile, and many others whose fortunes were
+entirely attached to the court.
+
+But this great re-emigration produced evils of no common magnitude in
+Brazil. It is computed that fifty millions of crusadoes, at least, were
+carried out of the country by the Portuguese returning to Lisbon. A
+great proportion of specie had been taken up in exchange for government
+bills on the treasuries of Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranham. But these
+provinces, from the revolution in February, had disclaimed the
+superiority of the government at Rio, and had owned no other than that
+of the Cortes at Lisbon, and above all the ministry well knew, even at
+the time of granting the bills, that they had refused to remit any
+portion of the revenue to Rio. Hence arose commercial distress of every
+description, and as long-standing government debts had been also paid by
+these bills which were all dishonoured, the evil spread far and wide,
+not only among the natives but the foreign merchants. It was of little
+avail that the Prince acknowledged the debts[36]; the treasury was left
+so poor, that he was obliged to delay or modify the increase of military
+pay promised on the King's departure, a circumstance that occasioned
+much disquiet in several provinces. The funds for carrying on several
+branches of industry, and several works of public utility were destroyed
+by this great and sudden drain; and thereby much that had been begun
+after the arrival of the court, and which it was hoped would have been
+of the greatest benefit to the country, was stopped. Colonies that had
+been invited to settle with the most liberal promises perished for want
+of the necessary support in the beginning of their career, and the
+wonder is, not that disturbances in various quarters took place after
+the departure of the King, but that they were not of a more fierce and
+fatal tendency.
+
+[Note 36: It was of little avail at the time. But as soon as it was
+possible, his royal highness's government began payments by instalments,
+which are still going on, notwithstanding the total change of
+government. This is highly honourable.]
+
+The Prince who remained at the head of the government was deservedly
+popular among the Brazilians. His first care was to examine into and
+redress causes of grievances; particularly those arising from arbitrary
+imprisonment and vexatious methods of collecting taxes. The great duties
+on salt conveyed into the interior, were remitted. Something was done
+towards improving the condition of the barracks, hospitals, and schools.
+Books were allowed to be imported duty free, and every thing that could
+be effected under the circumstances, was done by the Prince for the
+advantage of the people, and to preserve or promote public tranquillity.
+
+But the question of the independence of Brazil had now come to be
+publicly agitated, and out of it arose several others. Was it to be
+still part of the Portuguese monarchy, with a separate supreme
+jurisdiction civil and criminal under the Prince? or was it to return to
+the abject state in which it had been since its discovery, subject to
+all the vexatious delays occasioned by distant tribunals, by appeals
+beyond sea, and all that renders the state of a colony irksome or
+degrading? Then if independent so far, was it to form one kingdom whose
+capital should be at Rio, or were there to be several unconnected
+provinces, each with its supreme government, accountable only to the
+king and cortes at Lisbon? Those who had republican views, and who
+looked forward to a federal state, favoured the latter views, and so did
+those who dreaded the final separation of Brazil from the mother
+country; for they argued that the separate provinces might be easily
+controlled, but that Brazil united would overmatch any force that
+Portugal could send against it, should a hostile struggle between them
+ever take place.
+
+The people, jealous of all, but particularly of the ministers, accused
+the Conde dos Arcos of treachery, and of a wish to reduce Brazil once
+more to the state in which it had been before 1808. They insisted on his
+dismissal, and on the appointment of a provisional junta, which should
+deliberate on the best measures of government to be adopted, until the
+constitution of the cortes should arrive from Lisbon, and the fifth of
+June, the day of his dismissal, was held as a festival.[37]
+
+[Note 37: When he touched at Bahia on his way home, the junta of
+government there, prejudiced by letters from Rio, refused him permission
+to land; and he had the mortification of being treated as a criminal, in
+that very city where he had governed with honour, and where he had been
+beloved. On his arrival at Lisbon, he suffered a short imprisonment in
+the tower of Belem. Yet his misconduct, if it amounted to all he was
+charged with, seems to have been an error in judgment.]
+
+Yet, distressed as the government was by an empty treasury, and by
+demands increasing daily on all sides, it was impossible to remove at
+once all causes of discontent; and the new junta was so well aware of
+this, that, on the 16th of June, on publishing an invitation to all
+persons to send in plans and projects for improvements, and statistical
+notices concerning the country, they also published an exhortation to
+tranquillity and obedience, and patient waiting till the event of the
+deliberation of the cortes, now to be joined by their own deputies,
+should be known. That same night both the Portuguese and Brazilian
+troops were under arms in the city, violent jealousies had arisen
+between them, and it required all the authority and all the popularity
+of the Prince to restore order. On the morning of the 17th His Royal
+Highness called together the officers of both nations, and in a short
+speech he ordered them as soldiers, and recommended to them as citizens,
+to preserve the subordination of the troops they commanded, and union
+among those troops, bidding them remember that they had sworn to support
+the constitution, and that they were to trust to that for the redress of
+their grievances.
+
+Meanwhile the more distant provinces had acknowledged the authority of
+the cortes, and had sworn to support the constitution. But Maranham in
+its public acts took no notice whatever of the Prince, professing only
+to recognise the government of Lisbon. At Villa Rica, when the
+constitution was proclaimed, the troops refused to acknowledge the
+Prince, accusing him of withholding the pay promised by the King. At St.
+Catherine's, though the measures were less violent, yet the refusing to
+admit a new governor who had been sent, was decidedly an act of
+insubordination; but the political agitations at St. Paul's were not
+only of a more serious nature, but had more important results than those
+of any other province.
+
+The ostensible cause of the first public ferment in that city was the
+discontent of the Cacadores at not receiving the promised augmentation
+of pay, which, indeed, it was not then in the power of the Prince to
+bestow on them.
+
+The regiment, however, took up arms on the 3d of June, and declared they
+would not lay them down until they received the pay demanded, and were
+proceeding to threaten the municipal government of the city, when they
+were stopped by the good sense, and presence of mind of their captain,
+Jose Joaquim dos Santos. But though the ferment was soothed for the
+time, it continued to agitate not only the troops, but the people, to
+such a degree, that the magistrates and principal inhabitants thought it
+necessary to take some steps at once, to rule and to satisfy them. They
+took advantage of the occasion furnished by the assembling of the
+militia, on account of a festival on the 21st, and, keeping them
+together, they placed them on the morning of the 23d, in the square
+before the town-house, where the camara held its sittings. The great
+bell of the camara then tolled out, the people flocked to the square,
+with shouts of "Viva el Re, Viva o Constituicao, Viva o Principe
+Regente." They then demanded a provisional junta to be appointed for the
+government of the province, and that Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva,
+should be appointed president. This truly patriotic citizen and
+accomplished scholar, was a native of the country, and had now been
+residing in it some years, after having studied, travelled, and fought
+in Europe. As soon as he was named, a deputation was sent to his own
+dwelling, to bring him to the town-house.
+
+Meantime the standard of the camara had been displayed at one of the
+windows, and there the magistrates were placed in sight of the people.
+Jose Bonifacio appeared at another window, and addressed the people in a
+short, but energetic speech, calculated to give them courage, and at the
+same time to inspire peace and all good and orderly feeling. He then
+named, one by one, the members proposed by the chief citizens, to form
+the provisional junta, beginning with Joa[)o] Carlos Augusto de Oyenhausen,
+to continue general of arms in the province. Each name was received with
+cheers.[38] The troops and people then marched in an orderly manner to
+the house of Jose Bonifacio, to install him formally as president, and
+thence to the cathedral where a Te Deum was sung. At night the theatre
+was illuminated as for a gala, the national hymn was sung repeatedly;
+and from that moment all remained quiet in the city, and resolved to
+maintain the constitution, and the Prince Regent, for whom they
+expressed unbounded attachment.
+
+[Note 38: _Provisional government of St. Paul's._
+
+    The Archpriest Felisberto Gomes Jardin.
+    The Rev. Joa[)o] Ferreiro da Oliviero Bueno.
+    Antonio Lecto Perreiro da Gama Lobo.
+    Daniel Pedro Muller.
+    Francisco Ignacio.
+    Manoel Rodriguez Jorda[)o].
+    Andre da Sylva Gomez.
+    Francisco de Paulo Oliviera.
+    Dr. Nicola[)o] Perreira de Campos Noguerros.
+    Antonio Maria Quertim.
+    Martin Francisco de Andrada.
+    Lazaro Jose Goncalez.
+    Miguel Jose de Oliviero Pinto.
+
+]
+
+Nothing could have been so important to the interest of the Prince at
+that time. The Paulistas are among the most hardy, generous, and
+enlightened of the Brazilians. Their country is in the happiest climate.
+The mines of St. Paul's are rich, not only in the precious, but in the
+useful metals. Iron, so rich as to yield 93 per cent. and coal abound.
+The manufactures of that province are far before any others in Brazil.
+Corn and cattle are plenty there, as well as every other species of
+Brazilian produce. Agriculture is attended to, and the city by its
+distance from the sea, is safe from the attacks of any foreign power,
+while it is totally independent of external supplies.
+
+Unfortunately, the port of Santos presented a different scene during the
+first days of June. The first battalion of the Cacadores assembled
+before the government house, and, accusing the governor and the camara
+of withholding their pay, seized and imprisoned them, in order to force
+them to give the money they demanded. Several murders were committed
+during the insurrection, and various robberies, both in the houses and
+the ships in the harbour. Some armed vessels were, however, speedily
+despatched from Rio, and a detachment of militia from St. Paul's. Fifty
+of the insurgents were killed, and two hundred and forty taken
+prisoners; after which, every thing returned to a state of tranquillity;
+and as the most conciliatory measures were adopted towards the people,
+the peace continued.
+
+The next three months were spent almost entirely in establishing
+provisional juntas in the different capitals. Many of the captaincies
+had, upon swearing to maintain the constitution, spontaneously adopted
+that measure. Others, such as Pernambuco, had been restrained by their
+governors from doing so, until the Prince's edicts of the 21st of
+August, to that effect, reached them. These edicts were followed by
+another of the 19th of September, directing the juntas to communicate
+directly with the cortes at Lisbon; and the whole attention of the
+government was now directed to preserve tranquillity until the arrival
+of instructions from the cortes concerning the form of government to be
+adopted.
+
+It was fondly hoped, that the presence of Brazilian deputies, the
+importance of the country, and the consideration that it had been the
+asylum of the government during the stormy days of the revolutionary
+war, would have induced the cortes to have considered it no longer as a
+colony, but as an equal part of the nation, and that it might have
+retained its separate courts, civil and criminal, and all the consequent
+advantages of a prompt administration of the laws.
+
+Such was the state of Brazil, generally speaking, on our arrival in that
+country, on the 21st of September, 1821. Much that might be interesting
+I have omitted, partly because I have not so correct a knowledge of it,
+as to venture to write it; much, because we are too near the time of
+action to know the motives and springs that guided the actors; and much,
+because neither my sex nor situation permitted me to inform myself more
+especially concerning the political events in a country where the
+periodical publications are few, recent, and though by law free, yet, in
+fact, owing to the circumstances of the times, imperfect, timorous, and
+uncertain. What I have ventured to write is, I trust, correct as to
+facts and dates; it is merely intended as an introduction, without
+which, the journal of what passed while I was in Brazil would be
+scarcely intelligible.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+
+At about six o'clock in the evening of the 31st of July, 1821, after
+having saluted His Majesty, George IV., who at that moment went on board
+the Royal George yacht, to proceed to Dublin,--we sailed in the Doris, a
+42 gun frigate, for South America. After touching at Plymouth, and
+revisiting all the wonders of the break-water and new watering place, we
+sailed afresh, but when off Ushant, were driven back to Falmouth by a
+heavy gale of wind. There we remained till the 11th of August, when,
+with colours half-mast high, on account of the death of Queen Caroline,
+we finally left the channel, and on the 18th about noon came in sight of
+Porto Santo.
+
+We passed it on the side where the town founded by Don Henry of
+Portugal, on the first discovery of the island, is situated, and
+regretted much that it was too late in the day to go in very near it.
+The land is high and rocky, but near the town there is a good deal of
+verdure, and higher up on the land, extensive woods; a considerable
+quantity of wine is made there, which, being a little manufactured at
+Funchal, passes for true Madeira. As usual in Portuguese colonial towns,
+the church and convent are very conspicuous. When we passed Porto Santo,
+and the Desertas, and anchored in Funchal roads, I was disappointed at
+the calmness of my own feelings, looking at these distant islands with
+as little emotion as if I had passed a headland in the channel. Well do
+I remember, when I first saw Funchal twelve years ago, the joyous
+eagerness with which I feasted my eyes upon the first foreign country I
+had ever approached, the curiosity to see every stone and tree of the
+new land, which kept my spirits in a kind of happy fever.
+
+    "Sweet Memory, wafted by thy gentle gale,
+    Oft up the stream of time I turn my sail,
+    To view the fairy haunts of long lost hours,
+    Blest with far greener shades, far fresher flow'rs." ROGERS.
+
+Now I look on them tamely, or at best only as parts of the lovely
+landscape, which, just at sunset, the time we anchored, was particularly
+beautiful. Surely the few years added to my age have not done this? May
+I not rather hope, that having seen lands whose monuments are all
+history, and whose associations are all poetry, I have a higher taste,
+and more discriminating eye? One object never palls--that ocean where
+the Almighty "Glasses himself in tempests," or over which the gentle
+wings of peace seem to brood. The feeling that there was a change,
+however, either in the scene or in me, was so strong, that I ran to my
+cabin and sought out a sketch I had made in 1809. I compared it with the
+town. Every point of the hill, every house was the same, and again Nossa
+Senhora da Monte, with her brilliant white towers shining from on high
+through the evening cloud, seemed to sanctify the scene, while a few
+rough voices from the shore and the neighbouring ships chaunted the Ave
+Maria.
+
+Early in the morning of the 19th, we took a large party of the
+midshipmen on shore to enjoy the young pleasure of walking on a foreign
+land. To them it was new to see the palm, the cypress, and the yucca,
+together with the maize, banana, and sugar-cane, surrounded by
+vineyards, while the pine and chesnut clothe the hills. We mounted the
+boys on mules, and rode up to the little parish church, generally
+mistaken for a convent, called Nossa Senhora da Monte. My maid and I
+went in a bad sort of palankeen, though convenient for these roads,
+which are the worst I have seen; however, the view made up for the
+difficulty of getting to it. The sea with the Desertas bounded the
+prospect: below us lay the roadstead and shipping, the town and gardens,
+and the hill clothed with vineyards and trees of every climate, which
+deck the ashy tufa, or compact basalt of which the whole island seems to
+be composed. Purchas, who like Bowles, believes the story of the
+discovery of Madeira by the Englishman Masham and his dying mistress,
+says, that shortly after that event, the woods having taken fire burned
+so fiercely, that the inhabitants were forced out to sea to escape from
+the flames. The woods, however, are again pretty thick, and some
+inferior mahogany among it is used for furniture. The pine is too soft
+for most purposes. In the gardens we found a large blue hydrangea very
+common: the fuschia is the usual hedge. Mixed with that splendid shrub,
+aloes, prickly pear, euphorbia, and cactus, serve for the coarser
+fences; and these strange vegetables, together with innumerable lizards
+and insects, tell us we are nearing the tropics.
+
+We spent a very happy day at the hospitable country house of Mr.
+Wardrope, and our cavalcade to the town at night was delightful. The
+boys, mounted as before, together with several gentlemen who had joined
+us at Mr. W.'s, enjoyed the novelty of riding home by torch-light; and
+as we wound down the hill, the voices of the muleteers answering each
+other, or encouraging their beasts with a kind of rude song, completed
+the scene. The evening was fine, and the star-light lovely: we embarked
+in two shore boats at the custom-house gate, and, after being duly
+hailed by the guard-boat, a strange machine mounting one old rusty 6
+lb. carronade, we reached the ship in very good time.
+
+20th. We walked a good deal about the town, and entered the cathedral
+with some feelings of reverence, for a part of it at least was built by
+Don Henry of Portugal, who founded and endowed the college adjoining.
+The interior of the church is in some parts gaudy, and there is a silver
+rail of some value. The ceiling is of cedar, richly carved, and reminds
+me of some of the old churches at Venice, which present a style half
+Gothic half Saracenic. Near the church a public garden has lately been
+formed, and some curious exotic trees placed there with great success.
+
+In rambling about the town, we naturally enquired for the chapel of
+skulls, the ugliness of which had shocked us when here formerly, and
+were not sorry to find that that hideous monument of bad taste is
+falling fast to ruin. I cannot imagine how such fantastic horrors can
+ever have been sanctified, but so it is; and the Indian fakir who
+fastens a real skull round his neck, the Roman pilgrim who hangs a model
+of one to his rosary, and the friar who decks his oratory with a
+thousand of them, are one and all acted upon either by the same real
+superstition, or spiritual vanity, craving to distinguish itself even by
+disgusting peculiarities.
+
+Of late years superstition has been used as an instrument of no small
+power in revolutions of every kind. Even here it has played its part. A
+small chapel, dedicated to St. Sebastian, had been removed by the
+Portuguese government in order to erect a market-place, where all
+articles of daily consumption were to be sold, a small tax being levied
+on the holders of stands. This innovation was of course disagreeable to
+the people, and on the night of the revolution, in November last, some
+of their leading orators accused the market-place of having, by rudely
+thrusting out St. Sebastian, occasioned the failure of the vineyards,
+and threatened the ruin of the island. The market-place was instantly
+devoted; it was down in a few seconds, and a chapel to St. Sebastian
+begun. Men, women, and children worked all night, and the walls were
+raised to at least two-thirds of the intended height; but day brought
+weariness, and perhaps the morning breeze chilled the fever of
+enthusiasm. The voluntary labourers worked no more, and no subscription
+adequate to the hire of workmen to complete it has yet been raised: so
+that the new St. Sebastian's stands roofless, and the officiating priest
+performs his masses with no other canopy than the heavens.
+
+Other and better consequences have, however, arisen from the revolution
+of November. The grievances of the inhabitants of Madeira were severe.
+The sons of the best families were seized arbitrarily, and sent to serve
+in the armies of Europe or Brazil: scarcely any article, however
+necessary, or however coarse, was permitted to be manufactured; the very
+torches, made of twisted grass and resin, so necessary for travelling
+these mountain roads after sunset, were all sent from Lisbon, and every
+species of cultivation, but that of the grape, discountenanced. Thus
+situated, every class joined heart and hand in the revolution: deputies
+were sent to the Cortes; petitions respecting the state of agriculture,
+manufactures, and commerce, were presented; and many, perhaps most, of
+the grievances were redressed, or at least much lightened.
+
+Till the year 1821, there had never been a printing-press in Madeira;
+but the promoters of the revolution sent to England for one, which is
+now set up in Funchal; and on the 2d of July, 1821, the first newspaper,
+under the name of PATRIOTA FUNCHALENSE, appeared. It contained a well
+written patriotic preface; and the first article is a declaration of the
+rights of citizens, and of the pretensions of the Portuguese nation, its
+religion, government, and royal family, as adopted by the Cortes for the
+basis of the constitution to be formed for its government. The paper has
+continued to be published twice a week: it contains a few political
+addresses and discourses; all foreign intelligence; some tolerable
+papers on distilling, agriculture, manufactures, and similar topics;
+some humorous pieces in prose and verse; poems _on several occasions_;
+and, at the end of the month, a table of the receipts and expenditures
+of government. Among the advertisements I observe one informing the
+public where _leeches_ may be bought at about two shillings and sixpence
+a piece.
+
+I thought it curious to observe this first dawning of literature and
+interest in politics in this little island. There are certainly enough
+anglicisms in the paper, to point out the probable country of some of
+the writers; and there are, as might be looked for, some traces of the
+residence of British troops in the colony; but on the whole, the paper
+is creditable to the editors, and likely to be useful to the island. I
+hear the articles on the making of wines and brandies very highly spoken
+of. Madeira, lying in the finest climate in the world, beautiful and
+fertile, and easy of access to foreigners, ought not to be a mere half
+civilised colony.
+
+23d.--We sailed yesterday from Funchal, and soon lost sight of the
+
+      "Filha do oceano
+     Do undoso campo flor, gentil MADEIRA." DINIZ.
+
+At night, I sat a long time on the deck, listening to the sea songs with
+which the crew beguile the evening watch. Though the humorous songs were
+applauded sufficiently, yet the plaintive and pathetic seemed the
+favourites; and the chorus to the Death of Wolfe was swelled by many
+voices. Oh, who shall say that fame is not a real good! It is twice
+blessed--it blesses him who earns, and those who give, to parody the
+words of Shakspeare. Here, on the wide ocean, far from the land of
+Wolfe's birth, and that of his gallant death, his story was raising and
+swelling the hearts of rough men, and exciting love of country and of
+glory by the very sound of his name. Well may _he_ be called a
+benefactor to his country who, by increasing the list of patriotic
+sailors' songs, has fostered those feelings and energies which have
+placed Britain's "home upon the mountain wave, and her march upon the
+deep."
+
+The charms of night in a southern climate have been dwelt upon by
+travelled poets (for I call Madame de Stael's writings poetry), and even
+travelled prose writers; but Lord Byron alone has sketched with
+knowledge and with love, the moonlight scenery of a frigate in full
+sail. The life of a seaman is the essence of poetry; change, new
+combinations, danger, situations from almost deathlike calm, to the
+maddest combinations of horror--every romantic feeling called forth, and
+every power of heart and intellect exercised. Man, weak as he is,
+baffling the elements, and again seeing that miracle of his invention,
+the tall ship he sails in, tossed to and fro, like the lightest feather
+from the seabird's wing--while he can do nothing but resign himself to
+the will of Him who alone can stay the proud waves, and on whom heart,
+intellect, and feeling, all depend!
+
+25th.--Nothing can be finer than the approach to Teneriffe[39],
+especially on such a day as this; the peak now appearing through the
+floating clouds, and now entirely veiled by them. As we drew near the
+coast, the bay or rather roadstead of Oratava, surrounded by a singular
+mixture of rocks, and woods, and scattered towns, started forth at once
+from beneath the mists, which seemed to separate it from the peak, whose
+cold blue colour formed a strong contrast to the glowing red and yellow
+which autumn had already spread on the lower grounds.
+
+[Note 39: The Chinerfe of the Guanches.]
+
+We anchored in forty fathoms water with our chain-cable, as the bottom
+is very rocky, excepting where a pretty wide river, which, though now
+dry, rolls a considerable body of water to the sea in the rainy season,
+has deposited a bed of black mud. There are many rocks in the bay, with
+from one to three fathoms water, and within them from nine to ten. The
+swell constantly setting in is very great, and renders the anchorage
+uncomfortable.
+
+26th.--- I went ashore with Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant, and two of
+the young midshipmen, for the purpose of riding to the Villa di Oratava,
+which is situated where the ancient Guanche capital stood. We landed at
+the Puerto di Oratava, several miles from the villa: it is defended by
+some small batteries, at one of which is the very difficult
+landing-place, sheltered by a low reef of rocks that runs far out, and
+occasions a heavy surf. I took my own saddle ashore: and being mounted
+on a fine mule, we all began our journey towards the hill. The road is
+rough, but has evidently once been made with some pains, and paved with
+blocks of porous lava; but the winter rains have long ago destroyed it,
+and it does not seem to be any body's business to put it in repair.
+
+The first quarter of a mile on either hand presented a scene so black
+and stony, that I was surprised to learn that we had been passing
+through corn land; the harvest was over, and the stubble burned on the
+ground. The produce here is scanty; but being so near the port, it
+repays the labour and expense of cultivation. We saw the botanical
+garden so much praised by Humboldt; but it is in sad disorder, having
+been for some time entirely neglected. However, the very establishment
+of such a thing brings in new plants, and perhaps naturalises them.
+Here, the sago-palm, platanus, and tamarind, as well as the flowers and
+vegetables of the north of Europe, flourish so well as to promise to add
+permanently to the riches of this rich island. As we ascended towards
+the villa the prospect improved; the vineyards appeared in greatest
+beauty, every other crop still standing in the luxuriant valleys, the
+rocky cliffs of the mountains clothed with wood, and every thing glowing
+with life. Wheat, barley, a few oats, maize, potatoes, and caravansas,
+all grow freely here. The food of the common people consists chiefly of
+Polenta, or maize flour, used nearly as the Scotch peasants use their
+oatmeal, in cakes, brose, or porridge, which last is suffered to grow
+cold, and then most commonly cut in slices and toasted. After the maize,
+potatoes are the favourite food, together with salt fish. The potatoe is
+always in season, being planted every month, and consequently producing
+a monthly crop. The fishery employs from forty-five to fifty vessels of
+from seventy to ninety tons' burden, from the island of Teneriffe alone;
+the fish are taken on the coast of Africa, and salted here.
+
+To a stranger the sight of the long walls of black porous lava, built
+terrace-wise to support the vegetable mould, is very striking; but the
+walls cannot be called ugly, while the clustering vine and
+broad-spreading gourd, climb and find support on them: these, however,
+soon disappeared, and were replaced by field and garden enclosures.
+After a pleasant but hot ride, we arrived at the villa about noon, and
+went to the house of Senor Don Antonio de Monteverde, who accompanied us
+to M. Franqui's garden, to see one of the wonders of the island, the
+famous Dragon Tree. Humboldt has celebrated this tree in its vigour;
+it is now a noble ruin. In July, 1819, one half of its enormous crown
+fell: the wound is plaistered up, the date of the misfortune marked on
+it, and as much care is taken of the venerable vegetable as will ensure
+it for at least another century. I sat down to make a sketch of it; and
+while I was drawing, learned from Mr. Galway the following history of
+the family of its owner, which a little skill in language and a little
+adorning with sentiment might convert into a modern novel.--About the
+year 1760, the Marquis Franqui, upon some disgust, made over his estates
+in trust to his brother, and emigrated to France, where he remained
+until 1810, regularly receiving the proceeds from his estates in
+Teneriffe. Meantime, during the early period of the revolution, he
+married; and his only child, a daughter, was born. This marriage,
+however, was only a civil contract, such being then the law of France,
+and with a woman divorced from another, who was still living. But
+neither the validity of the union nor the legitimacy of the child was
+ever questioned; and the Marquis Franqui returning to his native
+country, brought with him his daughter, introducing and treating her as
+his heiress. She appeared to be received as such by his family; and at
+his death he appointed trustworthy guardians to her and her estates, one
+of whom is her husband's father. No sooner, however, was the Marquis
+dead, than his brother claimed his property, alleging that the church
+had never sanctioned the Marquis's marriage, and that the daughter
+consequently, as an illegitimate child, could have no claim on his
+estates. He therefore commenced a lawsuit against her and her guardians,
+and the suit is still pending. Meantime the court receives the rents;
+the garden, the chief ornament of the town, is running wild, and the
+house is deserted.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The dragon tree is the slowest of growth among vegetables; it seems also
+to be slowest in decay. In the 15th century, that of Oratava had
+attained the height and size which it boasted till 1819. It may have
+been in its prime for centuries before; and scarcely less than a
+thousand years must have elapsed, before it attained its full size.
+Excepting the dragon trees at Madeira, the only many-headed palm I had
+seen before was that at Mazagong in Bombay. It is crowned, however, with
+a leaf like that of the palmetto; but the tufts of the dragon tree
+resemble the yucca in growth. The palm tree at Mazagong, like the
+adansonia in Salsette, is reported to have been carried thither by a
+pilgrim from Africa, probably from Upper Egypt, where late travellers
+mention this palm.
+
+On our return from the garden to Don Antonio's house, we were most
+kindly received by his wife and daughter, the latter of whom played a
+long and difficult piece of music most excellently. It was, however,
+English, in compliment to us, though we should have preferred some of
+her own national airs. After the music, we were conducted to a table
+spread in the gallery that surrounds the open court in the middle of the
+house, and covered with fruits, sweetmeats, and wines, which were
+pressed upon us most hospitably; till finding it time to return, the
+ladies both embraced me, and we began our journey down the hill, having
+first looked into the churches, which are spacious and handsome, a good
+deal in the style of those of Madeira, but finer.
+
+As we rode along, we observed a large Dominican convent, the only one
+now on the island. The recent law passed by the Spanish Cortes for the
+suppression of religious houses, has been strictly enforced here. No
+more than one convent of each denomination is allowed to subsist, and
+great checks are put on the profession of new members. As to the
+revolution here, the inhabitants had known from authentic though not
+official authority of what had taken place in the mother country, three
+weeks before they received any notification from either court or cortes.
+When notice did arrive, the magistrates assembled the people, read their
+orders, and took their oaths to support the cortes; the people shouted,
+and made a bonfire: next day the forms of law and justice were declared
+to be changed, the tribunals proceeded accordingly, and all was over and
+quiet.
+
+The Canary Islands boast of two bishoprics, both of which are now
+vacant, yet have not one newspaper. The only printing press has been so
+long in disuse that there is nobody who can work it in the country. I
+could not learn that there are any manufactures in Teneriffe; if there
+are, I conclude they must be in the neighbourhood of Laguna or Santa
+Cruz. Oratava appears to be the district of corn and wine.
+
+We returned to the port by a longer road than that by which we left it.
+In the hedges, the boys, with no small delight, gathered fine ripe
+black-berries, which were growing among prickly pear and other tropical
+plants. The fields, vineyards, and orchards we had seen from the former
+road we now passed through; and as it was a _fiesta_, we saw the
+peasants in their best attire, and their little mud huts cleanly swept
+and garnished. They seem gentle and lively, not much darker than the
+natives of the south of Europe; and if there be a mixture of Guanche
+blood, it is said to be traced in the high cheek-bones, narrow chins,
+and slender hands and feet which in a few districts seem to indicate a
+different race of men. I regret that I had not time to see more of the
+people and the country; but not being travellers from curiosity, and
+belonging to a service that may not swerve from the strictest obedience,
+we dared not even think of a farther excursion.
+
+Halfway down the hill, we entered a ravine, the dry bed of a winter
+torrent, where there were rue, lavender, prickly pear, hypericum, and
+spurge; but not a blade of grass had survived the summer's drought. We
+passed a heap of black ashes, which anywhere but at the base of the peak
+would be called a respectable mountain. It has not been cold long enough
+to be disguised by vegetation; and though on one side the vine is
+beginning to clothe its rugged surface, yet the greater part is
+frightfully barren. Shortly after we passed it, we arrived at Mr.
+Galway's garden-house, and found his lady, a Spaniard of Irish
+extraction, ready to receive us. As I had seen in some old Scotch
+houses, the best bed-chamber served as drawing-room; but the
+dressing-room is apart, and from the front there is an opening to a
+pleasant terrace, commanding a charming view. Our dinner was a mixture
+of English and Spanish cookery and customs: the Spanish part consisted
+of part of a Darter, a very fine fish, white, but resembling a salmon
+in taste, with sauce made of small lobsters, oil, vinegar, garlic, and
+pimento; some excellent stews, and mixtures of vegetables and quails
+roasted in vine leaves; the rest were all English; and the wines, the
+growth of the island, and ices[40] were delicious. Neither the
+pine-apple nor water-melon grow in Teneriffe, but abundance of the
+latter are brought from Grand Canary. All the common garden fruits of
+Europe flourish here; but too little attention is paid to horticulture.
+This island, or at least the part I have seen, evidently belongs to a
+state that has once been great; but is now too poor or too weak to
+foster its foreign possessions. Some fine houses begun are in an
+unfinished state, and appear to have been so for years; others, though
+falling, are neither rebuilt nor repaired; and the only things like
+present prosperity, are the neat English country-houses.
+
+[Note 40: The ice is procured from a large cavern near the cone of
+the peak; it is almost full of the finest ice all the year round.]
+
+It was sunset before we reached the boats that were to convey us to the
+ship; and we had some difficulty both in getting off and in going
+alongside of the frigate, owing to the great swell. The night, however,
+was fine, and the scene enlivened by the lights in the fishing boats,
+which, like those in the Mediterranean, are used to attract the fish. On
+shore, the lights of the ports and villa, and the fires of the charcoal
+burners shining from amidst the dark hanging forests of pine, and those
+of the limekilns in the direction of Laguna, appeared like a brilliant
+illumination; and there being not a cloud, the outline of the peak was
+well defined on the deep blue of the nocturnal sky.
+
+27th _August_. To-day, some of our new friends, both Spanish and
+English, came on board; but the swell was so great, that only one
+escaped sea-sickness. Mrs. Galway was fearful of suffering, so did not
+come, but she sent me some of the beads found in the sepulchres of the
+Guanches: they are of hard baked clay. Mr. Humboldt, whose imagination
+was naturally full of South America, has conjectured that they might
+have been used for the same purpose as the Peruvian _quipos_, but they
+are inconveniently large for that use. They are not unlike the beads
+Belzoni found in the mummy pits in Egypt, and they closely resemble some
+of the many kinds of beads with which the Bramins have counted their
+muntras time immemorial. The Oriental custom of dropping a bead for
+every prayer having been adopted by the Christians of the west, and
+still continuing in Roman Catholic countries, appears, on that account,
+too common to deserve the notice of a philosophical traveller; and
+therefore the Guanche shepherds, or goatherd kings, are rather supposed,
+like the polished Peruvians, to have recorded the annals of their reigns
+with clay beads, than allowed to tell them with their orisons, like the
+Bramins of the Ganges, the shepherds of Mesopotamia, or the anchorets of
+Palestine and Egypt, because the modern monk does the same. The Guanche
+mummies are now of very rare occurrence. During the early times of the
+Spanish government of the island, their sepulchres were carefully
+concealed by the natives; now, intermarriage with their conquerors, and
+consequent change of religion and habits, have rendered them careless of
+them, and they are, generally speaking, really forgotten, and only
+discovered accidentally in planting a new vineyard, or ploughing a new
+field.
+
+28th. This morning left the "still vext" bay of Oratava, and before
+sunset saw Palma and Gomera. The Canary Islands, supposed to be the
+Fortunate Islands of the ancients, were discovered accidentally in 1405.
+Betancour, a Frenchman, took possession of them for Spain; but the
+natives were brave, and it cost both the Spaniards and Portuguese, who
+possessed them by turns, much blood and treasure to conquer the country
+and exterminate the people, for their wars ended in nothing less.
+Purchas complains that he could not obtain the reading of some travels
+by an Englishman who had visited the Peak; the good pilgrim's curiosity
+had been strongly excited by the particulars he had learnt from books,
+and the journals of some of his friends who had travelled, which he has
+carefully related: they are such as to make me regret that he has not
+recorded more, and that I cannot see more. We brought with us from
+Oratava one of the finest goats I ever saw; I presume she was a
+descendant of the original flock which the supreme deity of the Guanches
+created to be the property of the kings alone: she is brown, with very
+long twisted horns, a very remarkable white beard, and the largest udder
+I ever saw.
+
+29th. Passed the island of Hierro or Ferro, the old first meridian;
+which honour, I presume, it enjoyed from having been considered as the
+most western land in the world until the discovery of America. We were
+very close to it, and all agreed that we never saw so hard-looking and
+inaccessible a place. We saw some fine woods, a few scattered houses,
+and one village perched upon a hill, at least 1500 feet above us. The
+Peak of Teneriffe still visible above the clouds.
+
+_Sept._ 1st. The flying-fish are become very numerous, and whole fleets
+of medusae have passed us; some we have picked up, besides a very
+beautiful purple sea-snail. This fish has four horns, like a snail, the
+shell is very beautifully tinted with purple, and there is a spongy
+substance attached to the fish which I thought assisted it to swim: it
+is larger in bulk than the whole fish. One of them gave out fully a
+quarter of an ounce of purple fluid from the lower part of the fish. A
+fine yellow locust and a swallow flew on board; and as we believe
+ourselves to be four hundred miles from the nearest land, Cape Blanco,
+we cannot enough admire the structure of the wings that have borne them
+so far.
+
+Our school for the ship's boys is now fairly established, and does Mr.
+Hyslop, our school-master, great credit; that for the midshipmen is
+going on very well, being kept in the fore-cabin under the captain's
+eye. The boys have his presence, not only as a check to idleness or
+noise, but as an encouragement to industry. He is most anxious to make
+them fit to be officers and seamen in their profession, and good men and
+gentlemen both at sea and on shore. Happily they are all promising; but
+if G---- should disappoint us, I never will believe in youthful talent,
+industry, or goodness more. Our days pass swiftly, because busily. The
+regular business of the ship, the school, astronomical observations,
+study of history and modern languages, and nothing permitted to pass
+without observation, fill our time completely.
+
+Lord Bacon says, "It is a strange thing that in sea voyages, where there
+is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in
+land travel, wherein so much is to be observed, for the most part they
+omit it, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation."
+However, for once, his lordship has only seen, or perhaps only spoken,
+in part. Sea and sky must be observed before we can know the laws by
+which their great changes or chances are regulated. Observations on the
+works of man, as cities, courts, &c. may be omitted, for we know their
+authors, and can have recourse to them, their motives, and their
+history, whenever we please; but the great operations of nature are so
+above us, that we must humbly mark them, and endeavour to make their
+history a part of our experience, in order that we pass safely through
+their vicissitudes. Hence it is, that the commonest details of the early
+navigators, their sunrise and sunset, their daily portionings of food
+and water, are read with a deeper interest than the liveliest tour
+through civilised countries and populous cities; that Byron's passage
+through Chiloe continues to excite the most profound sympathy; while
+Moore's lively view of society and manners in France or Italy, are now
+seldom or languidly read. The uncertainty, the mystery of nature, keep
+up a perpetual curiosity; but I suspect that if we knew the progress and
+dependance of her operations, as well as we do those of an architect or
+brick-layer, the history of the building of a theatre or a
+dwelling-house might vie in interest with that of a sea voyage.
+
+The books we intend our boys to read are,--history, particularly that of
+_Greece_, _Rome_, _England_, and _France_; an outline of general
+history, voyages, and discoveries; some poetry, and general literature,
+in French and English; Delolme, with the concluding chapter of
+Blackstone on the history of the law and the constitution of England;
+and afterwards the first volume of Blackstone, Bacon's Essays, and
+Paley. We have only three years to work in; and as the _business_ of
+their life is to learn their profession, including mathematics,
+algebra, nautical astronomy, theory and practice of seamanship, and duty
+as officers, with all the _technicalities_ belonging to it,--this is all
+we dare propose.
+
+5th. We have begun to look forward to that festival of the seamen, the
+crossing the line. I know not whence the custom is derived, but the
+Arabs observe it with ceremonies not very unlike those practised by our
+own sailors. To-day a letter, containing a sketch of the intended
+festival, with thanks for permission to keep it, was sent into the
+cabin. I shall copy it with its answer. I find that some captains have
+begun to give money at the next port, instead of permitting this day of
+misrule. Perhaps they may be right, and perhaps in time it may be
+forgotten; but will it be better that it should be so? It is the
+sailors' only festival; and I like a festival: it gives the heart room
+to play. The head in one class, and the limbs in another, work every
+day, and in divers, if not opposite directions; but on a festival, the
+hearts of all beat the same way: yet I would not have them too often,
+for
+
+    "If every day were playing holiday,
+    To sport would be as tedious as to work;"
+
+the converse of the proverb, "All work and no play, makes Jack a dull
+boy." But to our letters.
+
+"The sons of Neptune, of His Majesty's ship Doris, commanded by Captain
+T.G., return their most grateful thanks for his kind condescension for
+granting them the favour that has been allowed to them from time
+immemorial, in crossing the Equinoctial, on our Old Father Neptune's
+dominions, when we hope the characters will meet your Honour's
+approbation, which will appear in the margin.
+
+Thomas Clark, quarter-master,          --     Neptune.
+J. Ware, forecastle,                   --     Amphitrite.
+W. Knight,                             --     Amphitrite's Son.
+W. Sullivan, 2d captain main-top,      --     Triton.
+C. Brisbane (_negro_),                 --     Triton's Horse.
+J. Thompson, gunner's mate,            --     High Sheriff.
+J. White, forecastle,                  --     Sub Sheriff.
+W. Sinclair, captain forecastle,       --     Barber.
+J. Smith, J. Forster, Michael Jaque,   --    Barber's Mates.
+J. Gaggin,                             --     Clerk.
+W. Bird, captain fore-top,             --     Chief Constable.
+Nine assistants.
+J. Duncan, boatswain's mate,           --     Coachman.
+J. Clark,                              --     Postilion.
+J. Leath,                              --     Footman.
+J. Speed,                              --     Painter.
+W. Lundy,                              --     Bottle-holder.
+W. Williamson,                         --     Satan.
+J. Williams,                           --     Judge Advocate.
+Eight Sea-horses.
+
+"So we have given you as good a relation as possibly our weak abilities
+afford us; and, honoured Captain, believe us when we say, we wish you
+every happiness this life can afford, and your honoured lady entirely
+included, and believe us yours, &c. &c. &c.
+
+"BRITTON'S SONS."
+
+_Answer._
+
+"I received your letter with the list of characters that are to appear
+in Father Neptune's train on our crossing the line, of which I
+completely approve. I have to thank you for your kind wishes both for
+Mrs. G---- and myself, and to assure you, that the greatest pleasure I
+can feel in the command of this ship, will be in promoting the happiness
+and comfort of the whole of Britain's sons on board the Doris.
+
+"Believe me your sincere friend,
+THOS. G----,
+
+"H.M.S. Doris, at Sea, Sept 5th, 1821.
+To Britain's Sons, H.M.S. Doris."
+
+It would be worth while to enquire into the origin of the merry-making
+on crossing the line. As the Arabs, an astronomical people, have it, it
+has probably some reference to their now-forgotten worship of the
+heavenly bodies. Like us, they set on fire some combustible matter or
+other, and let it float away, but they add some food to it, as if there
+had once been a sacrifice accompanying the festival. Such, at least, I
+have been assured by several gentleman well acquainted with the Arab
+traders in the Eastern sea, is their practice.
+
+18th. We have done nothing but sail on with very variable weather, for
+the last thirteen days.
+
+    "From world to world our steady course we keep,
+    Swift as the winds along the waters sweep,
+    Mid the mute nations of the purple deep."
+
+One night we observed that luminous appearance of the sea so often
+described, but it was not so brilliant as I remember to have seen it
+near the same latitude. The next morning we found the temperature of the
+sea, at the surface, two degrees higher than that of the atmosphere.
+Last night at 8 P. M. we crossed the line: to-day, accordingly, our
+Saturnalian festival took place.
+
+About six o'clock P. M. yesterday, the officer of the watch was informed
+that there was a boat with lights alongside, and begged to shorten sail.
+The captain immediately went on deck, and Neptune hailed from the fore
+part of the rigging, "What ship?" "Doris." "Who commands?" "Captain T.
+G." "Where from?" "Whitehall." "Where bound?" "A man of war's cruize."
+Upon which Triton mounted upon a sea-horse, admirably represented,
+appeared as bearer of a letter containing the names of all who had not
+yet crossed the line, and who were consequently to be initiated into the
+mysteries of the Water God. Triton having thus executed his commission,
+rode off, and was seen no more till 8 o'clock this morning, when Neptune
+being announced, the captain went on deck to receive him.
+
+First came Triton mounted as before, then a company of sea-gods or
+constables dressed in oakum and swabs, but having their arms and
+shoulders bare, excepting the paint which bedaubed them. Neptune with
+trident and crown, Amphitrite by his side, and their son at their feet,
+appeared in a car drawn by eight sea-horses, and driven by a sea god:
+the train followed in the persons of the lawyers, barbers, and painters.
+The whole pageant was well dressed, and going in procession, fully as
+picturesque as any antique triumphal or religious ceremony; the fine
+forms of some of the actors struck me exceedingly. I never saw marble
+more beautiful than some of the backs and shoulders displayed; and the
+singular clothing to imitate fishes instead of legs, and seaweed skirts,
+which they had all adopted, carried one back for centuries, to the time
+when all this was religion.
+
+After the progress round the decks, a conference with the captain, and a
+libation in the form of a glass of brandy, to which the god and goddess
+vied with each other in devotion, the merriment began. Mock-shaving, or
+a fine paid, was necessary to admit the new comers to the good graces of
+their watery father; and while he was superintending the business, all
+the rest of the ship's company, officers and all, proceeded to duck each
+other unmercifully. None but women escaped, and that only by staying in
+my cabin. The officer of the watch, sentries, quartermasters, and such
+as are absolutely necessary to look after the ship, are of course held
+sacred; so that some order is still preserved. It seemed really that
+"madness ruled the hour;" but at the appointed moment, half past eleven,
+all ceased: by noon, every body was at his duty, the decks were dried,
+and the ship restored to her wonted good order. The whole of our gunroom
+officers dine with us, and we flatter ourselves that we shall end the
+day as happily as we have begun it.[41]
+
+[Note 41: Frezier, who crossed the line, March 5th, 1712, says,
+"When it was no longer to be doubted that we were to the southward of
+the line, the foolish ceremony practised by all nations was not omitted.
+
+"The persons to be so served are seized by the wrists, to ropes
+stretched fore and aft on the second deck for the officers, and before
+the mast for the sailors; and after much mummery and monkey tricks, they
+are let loose, to be led after one another to the main mast, where they
+are made to swear on a sea chart that they will do by others as is done
+by them, according to the laws and statutes of navigation: then they pay
+to save being wetted, but always in vain, for the captains themselves
+are not quite spared."
+
+Jaques le Maire, the first who sailed round Cape Horn, mentions in his
+Journal, 8th July, 1615, baptizing the sailors when he arrived at the
+_Barrels_.--Has this any thing in common with the ceremony of crossing
+the line?]
+
+20th. The long tiresome calms, and the beautiful moonlight nights near
+the equator, have been talked of, and written of, till we know all about
+them. Mention but passing the line, and you conjure up a wide,
+apparently interminable, glassy dull sea: sails flapping, a solitary
+bird sinking with heat, or a shark rising lazily to catch a bait; or, at
+best, a calm warm night, with a soft moonlight silvering over the
+_treacherous_ deep, and rendering the beholders, who ought to be lovers
+if they are not, insensible of the rocks that may lurk below.--But our's
+was not the _beau ideal_ of crossing the line: we had fresh breezes in
+the day, and thunder and lightning at night; saw few tropic birds, and
+those very vigorous, and fish more nimble than sharks, or even sun-fish,
+of which, however, we met a due proportion. I had once been in a
+tropical calm, and I really, after trying them both, prefer the breezes
+and thunder-storms. The other night we had one, such as Milton talks of:
+
+      "Either tropic now
+    'Gan thunder, and both ends of heav'n: the clouds
+    From many a horrid rift abortive poured
+    Fierce rain with lightning mixt, water with fire
+    In ruin reconciled; nor slept the winds
+    Within their stoney caves, but rush'd abroad
+    From the four hinges of the world, and fell
+    On the vext wilderness."
+
+I never see a thunder-storm at sea, but it reminds me of the vision of
+Ezekiel:
+
+     "The sapphire blaze,
+    Where angels tremble while they gaze."
+
+It is awful and grand every where: fearful in the plain, sublime among
+the mountains; but here, on the ocean, with nothing to intercept its
+bolt, the horrible is superadded, and he must be more or less than man
+that does not at least take thought during its continuance.
+
+_Friday, September 21st._ At length we are in sight of the coast of
+Brazil, which here is low and green, about two degrees to the northward
+of the point first discovered by Vincente Pinzon, in 1500.[42] The
+weather is very squally, and there is a heavy swell: we are anchored
+about eight miles from Olinda, the capital of Pernambuco, in fifteen
+fathoms water, but though we have fired more than one gun for a pilot,
+none seems to be coming off.
+
+[Note 42: Cabral first took possession of the country which he
+called _that of the Holy Cross_, for the crown of Portugal; Amerigo
+Vespucci 1504, called it Brazil, on account of the wood.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Pernambuco, September 22. 1821._--At nine o'clock the commodore of this
+place, whose office is a combination of port-admiral and commissioner,
+came on board with the harbour-master, and the ship was guided by the
+latter to the anchorage, which is about three miles from the town, in
+eight fathoms water. The roadstead is quite open, and we find here a
+very heavy swell. It is not wonderful that our guns were neither
+answered nor noticed last night. Mr. Dance, having been sent on shore
+with official letters to the governor and the acting English consul,
+found the place in a state of siege, and brought back with him Colonel
+Patronhe, the governor's aide-de-camp, who gave us the following account
+of the present state of Pernambuco:
+
+Besides the disposition to revolution, which we were aware had long
+existed in every part of Brazil, there was, also, a jealousy between the
+Portuguese and Brazilians, which recent events had increased in no small
+degree. On the 29th of August, about 600 men of the militia and other
+native forces had taken possession of the Villa of Goyana, one of the
+principal places in this captaincy, and had forcibly entered the
+town-house, where they had declared the government of Luiz do Rego to be
+at an end. They proceeded to elect a temporary provisional government
+for Goyana, to act until the capital of the province should be in a
+condition to establish a constitutional junta; and in order to
+accelerate that event, they had collected forces of every kind, and
+among them several companies of the Cacadores who had deserted from Luiz
+do Rego; with these troops, such as they are, they had marched towards
+Pernambuco, and last night they had attacked the two main points of
+Olinda, to the north, in four different places, and Affogados to the
+south. They were, however, repulsed by the royal troops, under the
+governor, with the loss of fourteen killed and thirty-five prisoners,
+while the royalists had two killed, and seven wounded. This morning the
+alarm of the town's people was increased by finding several armed men
+concealed in the belfreys of the churches, whither also they had
+conveyed several stands of arms. Luiz do Rego is a soldier, and attached
+to the royal cause. He served long with the English army in Portugal and
+Spain, and, if I mistake not, distinguished himself at the siege of St.
+Sebastian's. He is rather a severe man, and, especially among the
+soldiers, more feared than loved.--Great part of the regiment of
+Cacadores has left him to join the patriots, and formed the most
+efficient corps in the attack last night. The towns-people have been
+formed into a militia, tolerably armed and trained. The town is pretty
+well supplied with mandioc flour, jerked beef, and salt fish; but the
+besiegers prevent all fresh provisions from coming in. All shops are
+shut, and all food scarce and dear. Most people who have property of
+value, in plate or jewels, have packed it up, and lodged it in the
+houses of the English merchants. Many persons with their wives and
+families have left their homes in the out-skirts of the town, and have
+taken refuge with the English. The latter, who, for the most part,
+sleep, at least, in country houses in the neighbourhood, called sitios,
+have left them, and remain altogether at their counting-houses in the
+port: every thing, in short, is alarm and uncertainty.
+
+_23d._--The night passed quietly, and so indeed did the day. Many
+messages have passed between us and the land, but I could not go on
+shore: we have excellent oranges, and tolerable vegetables from the
+town, and have been quite enough amused in observing the curious little
+boats, canoes, catamarans and jangadas, that have been sailing, and
+paddling, and rowing round the ship. The jangada resembles nothing I
+have ever seen before; six or eight logs are made fast together by two
+transverse beams; at one end there is a raised seat, on which a man
+places himself to steer, for they are furnished with a sort of rudder;
+sometimes the seat is large enough to admit of two sitters, another
+bench at the foot of a mast, immense for the size of the raft, holds
+clothes and provisions, or an upright pole is fixed in one of the logs,
+to which these things are suspended, and a large triangular sail of
+cotton cloth completes the jangada, in which the hardy Brazilian sailor
+ventures to sea, the waves constantly washing over it, and carries
+cargoes of cotton or other goods, or, in case of necessity, letters and
+despatches, hundreds of miles in safety.
+
+About three o'clock a large canoe with two patriot officers came along
+side, to ascertain if we were really English; if we had come, as was
+reported, to assist the royalists, or if we would assist them: so apt
+are men, under the influence of strong feeling themselves, to doubt of
+perfect indifference in others, that I question much whether they
+believed in the strict neutrality we profess. They left us, however,
+without betraying any particular anxiety, and made a very circuitous
+passage home, in order to avoid the Recife cruizer, which was looking
+out for straggling boats or vessels of any description belonging to the
+patriots.
+
+_Monday the 24th._--Col. Patronhe arrived early this morning, to request
+that the English packet might put into Lisbon with the Government
+despatches. We felt glad that the strict rules of service prevented the
+captain from giving any such order to the master of the packet. It would
+be at once a breach of that neutrality we profess to observe, and, in my
+opinion, an aiding of the worst cause. The colonel, adverting to the
+town being in a state of siege, and the uncertainty of the next attack
+as to time and place, advised me strongly to stay altogether on board;
+but I had never seen a town in a state of siege, and therefore resolved
+to go ashore. Accordingly, Mr. Dance, being the only officer on board
+who speaks either Portuguese or French, was commissioned to accompany
+me; and I took two midshipmen, Grey and Langford, also to call on Madame
+do Rego.
+
+The name of Pernambuco, which is that of the captainship, is now
+generally applied to the capital, which consists of two parts; 1st, the
+city of Olinda, which was founded by the Portuguese, under Duarte Coelho
+Pedreiro, about 1530 or 1540, and, as its name implies, on a beautiful
+spot, where moderate, but abrupt hills, a fine river, and thick wood,
+combine to charm the eye; but the approach to it by sea must always have
+been difficult, if not dangerous: and, 2nd, the town of Recife de
+Pernambuco, or the Reef of Pernambuco, built by the Dutch, under Maurice
+of Nassau, and by them called Maurice Town. It is a singular spot, well
+fitted for trade; it is situated upon several sand banks, divided by
+salt water creeks and the mouth of two fresh water rivers, connected by
+three bridges, and divided into as many parts; Recife, properly so
+called, where are the castles of defence, and the dock-yard, and the
+traders; Sant Antonio, where are the government house, the two principal
+churches, one for the white and one for the black population; and Boa
+Vista, where the richer merchants, or more idle inhabitants, live among
+their gardens, and where convents, churches, and the bishop's palace,
+give an air of importance to the very neat town around them.
+
+All this I knew before I landed, and thought I was pretty well prepared
+for Pernambuco. But no previous knowledge could do away the wonder with
+which one must enter that very extraordinary port. From the ship, which
+is anchored three miles from the town, we see that vessels lie within a
+reef on which the sea is perpetually breaking, but till I was actually
+within that reef, I had not the least idea of the nature of the harbour:
+the swell going ashore would have seemed tremendous, had we not been
+prepared for it, and made our passage of three miles a very long one. We
+approached the sandy beach between Recife and Olinda so nearly, that I
+thought we were going to land there; when coming abreast of a tower on a
+rock, where the sea was breaking violently, we turned short round, and
+found ourselves within a marvellous natural break-water, heard the surf
+dashing without, and saw the spray, but we ourselves were sailing along
+smoothly and calmly, as if in a mill-pond. The rock of which the reef is
+formed, is said to be coral; but it is so coated with barnacle and
+limpet above barnacle and limpet, that I can see nothing but the
+remainder of these shells for many feet down, and as deep into the rock
+as our hammers will break. It extends from a good way to the northward
+of Paraiba to Olinda, where it sinks under water, and then rises
+abruptly at Recife, and runs on to Cape St. Augustine, where it is
+interrupted by the bold granite head, that shoots through it into the
+ocean: it then reappears, and continues, interruptedly, towards the
+south. The breadth of the harbour here between the reef and the main
+land varies from a few fathoms to three quarters of a mile; the water is
+deep close to the rock, and there the vessels often moor. There is a bar
+at the entrance of the harbour, over which there is, in ordinary tides,
+sixteen feet water, so that ships of considerable burden lie here.[43]
+His Majesty's brig Alacrity lay some time within the reef; and two feet
+more water on the bar, would have enabled the Doris to have entered,
+though, as far as I have seen, there would be no room to turn about if
+she wished to go out again. The reef is certainly one of the wonders of
+the world; it is scarcely sixteen feet broad at top. It slopes off more
+rapidly than the Plymouth break-water, to a great depth on the outside,
+and is perpendicular within, to many fathoms. Here and there, a few
+inequalities at the top must formerly have annoyed the harbour in high
+tides or strong winds, but Count Maurice remedied this, by laying huge
+blocks of granite into the faulty places, and has thus rendered the top
+level, and the harbour safe at all times. The Count had intended to
+build warehouses along the reef, but his removal from the government
+prevented his doing so. A small fort near the entrance defends it, and
+indeed always must, so narrow and sudden is the passage. Near it, a
+light-house is in a fair way of being soon finished, at the very
+extremity of the reef, and these are the only two buildings on this
+extraordinary line of rock. We rowed up the harbour among vessels of all
+nations, with the town on one side, and the reef on the other, until we
+came to one of the wide creeks, over which the Dutch built a fine stone
+bridge, now in decay. We were a a good deal struck with the beauty of
+the scene; the buildings are pretty large, and white; the land low and
+sandy, spotted with bright green tufts of grass, and adorned with
+palm-trees. A few years ago a violent flood nearly destroyed the greater
+part of the centre of the bridge, yet the arches still serve to support
+light wooden galleries on each side of it, and the houses and gateways
+are still standing at either end. We landed pretty near the bridge, and
+were received by Colonel Patronhe, who apologised for the governor, who
+could not come to receive us, as he was in the council room.[44] The
+colonel conducted us to the government house, a very handsome building,
+with a square in front, and a tower, and we entered what had evidently
+been a splendid hall. The gilding and painting still remained on some
+parts of the ceiling and walls; but now it is occupied by horses
+standing ready saddled; soldiers armed, and ready to mount at a moment's
+warning; every thing on the alert; guns in front with lighted matches by
+them, and an air of bustle and importance among the soldiers, that
+excites a sort of sympathetic curiosity as to their possible and
+immediate destination. On going up stairs we found almost as much
+confusion: for the governor has hitherto lived in the very out-skirts of
+the town, and has but just come to the house in Sant Antonio, which was
+formerly the Jesuits' college, partly to be in the centre of business,
+and partly to secure his family, in case of accident, as the besiegers'
+out-posts are very near his former residence. I found Madame do Rego an
+agreeable, rather pretty woman, and speaking English like a native: for
+this she accounted, by informing me that her mother, the Viscondeca do
+Rio Seco, was an Irish woman. Nothing could be kinder and more
+flattering than her manner, and that of General do Rego's two daughters,
+whose air and manner are those of really well-bred women, and one of
+them is very handsome. After sitting some little time, refreshments were
+brought in, and shortly after, the governor himself appeared; a fine
+military-looking man. He appeared ill, being still suffering from the
+effects of a wound, he received some months ago, while walking through
+the town with a friend. It has since been ascertained, that the
+instigator of the crime was a certain Ouvidor (judge) whom he had
+displaced shortly after he assumed the government. The assassin fired
+twice; Luiz do Rego received several shots and slugs in his body, but
+the most severe wound was in his left arm. His friend's life was for
+some time despaired of, but both are now nearly well. At the time the
+crime was committed, the perpetrator was seized more than once by some
+of the bye-standers; but as often, a baker's basket was pushed in
+between him and whoever seized him; he threw away his pistols and
+escaped.[45]
+
+[Note 43: In 1816, under the governor, Monte Negro, the harbour was
+cleared and deepened, and particularly the bar.]
+
+[Note 44: The council or junta of provisional government consisted
+of ten members, of which Luiz do Rego was the head; they were drawing up
+an address to the inhabitants of Recife, assuring them of safety and
+protection; exulting in the advantage gained in the night, and asserting
+that there were plenty of provisions within the town; and encouraging
+them in the name of the king and cortes, to defend the city against the
+insurgents, who were of course branded with the names of enemies to the
+king and country.]
+
+[Note 45: Luiz do Rego was not the first governor of Pernambuco who
+had been shot at. In 1710, when Sebastian de Castro, in conformity to
+his orders from Lisbon, had erected a pillar, and declared Recife a
+town, San Antonio da Recife, the Olindrians shot him on his walk to Boa
+Vista, in four places. The Ouvidor was one of the conspirators. The
+bishop had a share in this unchristian action. The object of the people
+of Olinda and of the assassin's party was, to confine Recife to its own
+parish, extending only to the Affogados on one side, and Fort Brun on
+the other.]
+
+Having paid our visit, we proceeded to walk about the town. The streets
+are paved partly with blueish pebbles from the beach, partly with red or
+grey granite. The houses are three or four stories high, built of a
+whitish stone, and all are white-washed, with door-posts and
+window-frames of brown stone. The ground floor consists of shops, or
+lodging for the negroes, and stables: the floor above is generally
+appropriated to counting-houses and ware-rooms; and the dwelling-house
+still higher, the kitchen being universally at the top, by which means
+the lower part of the house is kept cool, I was surprised to find it so
+possible to walk out without inconvenience from the heat, so near the
+equator; but the constant sea-breeze, which sets in here every day at
+ten o'clock, preserves a temperature, under which it is at all times
+possible to take exercise. The hot time of day is from eight, when the
+land breeze fails, to ten. As we were to pass the stone bridge on our
+way back to the boat, which was ordered to meet us at the point of
+Recife, because the receding tide would have left it dry in the creek
+where we landed; we left it on one hand, and walked through Sant Antonio
+towards Boa Vista. When we came to the wooden bridge, 350 paces long,
+connecting it with Sant Antonio, we found that it had been cut through
+the middle, and is only now passable by means of two planks easily
+withdrawn, in case the besiegers should get possession of Boa Vista.
+Nothing can be prettier of its kind than the fresh green landscape, with
+its broad river winding through it, which is seen on each hand from the
+bridge, and the white buildings of the treasury and mint, the convents,
+and private houses, most of which have gardens. The verdure is
+delightful to an English eye; and I doubt not that the flat meadows, and
+slowly-flowing water, were particularly attractive to the Dutch founders
+of Recife. We walked back by the stone bridge, 280 paces long, as we
+intended; in vain did we look for shops; not one was open, the
+shopkeepers being all on military duty. They form the militia, and, as
+many of them are from Europe, and as they all expect to be plundered
+should the country Brazilians take the town by force, they are most
+zealous in their attendance as soldiers.
+
+At each end of every street we found a light gun, and at the heads of
+the bridges two, with lighted matches by them, and at each post we were
+challenged by the guard. At the end of the stone bridge, at the ponte
+dos tres pontes[46], next to Recife, the guards are more numerous and
+strict. In this quarter, the chief riches of the place are lodged, and
+that is the point most easily defended. It is very nearly surrounded
+with water, the houses are high, strongly built, and close together, the
+streets being very narrow, and the strong gateways at each end of the
+bridge might secure time to demolish it entirely, and thus render that
+part of the town secure, except by the sand bank communicating with
+Olinda, and that is guarded by two considerable forts.
+
+[Note 46: A little fort which defends the entrance to Recife.]
+
+We had hardly gone fifty paces into Recife, when we were absolutely
+sickened by the first sight of a slave-market. It was the first time
+either the boys or I had been in a slave-country; and, however strong
+and poignant the feelings may be at home, when imagination pictures
+slavery, they are nothing compared to the staggering sight of a
+slave-market. It was thinly stocked, owing to the circumstances of the
+town; which cause most of the owners of new slaves to keep them closely
+shut up in the depots. Yet about fifty young creatures, boys and girls,
+with all the appearance of disease and famine consequent upon scanty
+food and long confinement in unwholesome places, were sitting and lying
+about among the filthiest animals in the streets. The sight sent us home
+to the ship with the heart-ache: and resolution, "not loud but deep,"
+that nothing in our power should be considered too little, or too great,
+that can tend to abolish or to alleviate slavery.
+
+_27th._--I went on shore to-day to spend a few days with Miss S., the
+only English lady in the town. She is now living in her brother's
+town-house, where the office and warehouses are, because the
+country-house is within reach of the patriots. I do long to walk or ride
+out to the tempting green hills beyond the town; but as that cannot be,
+I must content myself with what is within the lines. To-day, as we were
+coming in from Boa Vista, we met a family of Certanejos, who had brought
+provisions into the town some days ago, returning home to the Certam, or
+wild country of the interior. These Certanejos are a hardy, active set
+of men, mostly agriculturists. They bring corn and pulse, bacon and
+sweetmeats, to the sea-coast, hides and tallow also at times. But the
+sugar, cotton, and coffee, which form the staple exports of Pernambuco,
+require the warmer, richer lands, nearer the coast. Cotton is, however,
+brought from the Certam, but it is a precarious crop, depending entirely
+on the quantity of rain in the season; and it sometimes does not rain in
+the Certam for two years. The party we met formed a very picturesque
+groupe, the men clad in leather from head to foot, of which their light
+jerkin and close pantaloons are fitted as closely as the clothing on the
+Egina marbles, and have something of the same effect: the small round
+hat is in the form of Mercury's petasus; and the shoes and gaiters of
+the greater number are excellently adapted to defend the legs and feet
+in riding through the thickets. The colour of all this is a fine tan
+brown. I was vexed that the woman of the party wore a dress evidently of
+French fashion: it spoiled the unity of the groupe. She was mounted
+behind the principal man, on one of the small active horses of the
+country; several sumpter horses followed, laden with household goods and
+other things in exchange for their provisions: cloths, both woollen and
+cotton, coarse crockery, and other manufactured articles, especially
+knives, are what they chiefly take in barter; though I saw some
+furniture, with pretensions to elegance, among the stuff of the family I
+met. After the horses came a groupe of men, some walking and keeping
+pace with the amble of the beasts; others riding and carrying the
+children; the procession being closed by a very stout good-looking man,
+smoking as he went along, and distinguished by a pair of green baize
+trowsers.
+
+In the evening we rode out; whether it was because we had been so many
+weeks on board ship, and without horse-exercise, or because of the
+peculiar sweetness and freshness of evening after the sultry tropical
+day we had just passed, I know not, but I never enjoyed an hour in the
+open air so much. We rode out of the town by some pretty country-houses,
+called _sitios_, to one of the out-posts at Mondego, which was formerly
+the governor's residence. The tamarind, the silk-cotton tree[47], and
+the palm, shaded us, and a thousand elegant shrubs adorned the garden
+walls. It is impossible to describe the fresh delicious feel of such an
+evening, giving repose and health after the fiery day. We were very
+sorry when obliged to return home; but the sun was gone, there was no
+moon, and we were afraid that the guards at the various posts of defence
+might stop us. As we came back, we were challenged at every station; but
+the words, _amigos ingresos_ were our passport, and we got to Recife
+just as the evening hymn was singing, harshly and unmusically enough, by
+the negroes and mulattoes in the streets; but yet every thing that
+unites men in one common sentiment is interesting. The church doors were
+open, the altars illuminated, and the very slave felt that he was
+addressing the same Deity, by the same privilege with his master. It is
+an evening I can never forget.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 47: Bombex pentandrium. _Jaquin._]
+
+_28th._--This morning before breakfast, looking from the balcony of Mr.
+S.'s house, I saw a white woman, or rather fiend, beating a young
+negress, and twisting her arms cruelly while the poor creature screamed
+in agony, till our gentlemen interfered. Good God! that such a traffic,
+such a practice as that of slavery, should exist. Near the house there
+are two or three depots of slaves, all young; in one, I saw an infant of
+about two years old, for sale. Provisions are now so scarce that no bit
+of animal food ever seasons the paste of mandioc flour, which is the
+sustenance of slaves: and even of this, these poor children, by their
+projecting bones and hollow cheeks, show that they seldom get a
+sufficiency. Now, money also is so scarce, that a purchaser is not
+easily found, and one pang is added to slavery: the unavailing wish of
+finding a master! Scores of these poor creatures are seen at different
+corners of the streets, in all the listlessness of despair--and if an
+infant attempts to crawl from among them, in search of infantile
+amusement, a look of pity is all the sympathy he excites. Are the
+patriots wrong? They have put arms into the hands of the _new_ negroes,
+while the recollection of their own country, and of the slave-ship, and
+of the slave-market, is fresh in their memory.
+
+I walked to-day to the market-place, where there is but little;--beef
+scarce and dear, no mutton, a little poultry, and a few pigs,
+disgusting, because they feed in the streets where every thing is
+thrown, and where they and the dogs are the only scavengers. The
+blockade is so strict, that even the vegetables from the gentlemen's
+private gardens, two miles from the out-posts, are detained. No milk is
+to be had, bread of American flour is at least twice as dear as in
+England, and the cakes of mandioc baked with cocoa nut juice, too dear
+for the common people to afford a sufficiency even of them. Fire-wood
+is extravagantly high, charcoal scarce. The negroes keep the markets: a
+few on their own account, more on that of their masters. The dress of
+the free negroes is like that of the creole Portuguese; a linen jacket
+and trowsers, or on days of ceremony one of cloth, and a straw hat,
+furnish forth either a black or a white gentleman. The women, in-doors,
+wear a kind of frock which leaves the bosom much exposed. When they walk
+out they wear either a cloak or mantle; this cloak is often of the
+gayest colours; shoes also, which are the mark of freedom, are to be
+seen of every hue, but black. Gold chains for the neck and arms, and
+gold ear-rings, with a flower in the hair, complete a Pernambucan
+woman's dress. The new negroes, men and women, have nothing but a cloth
+round their loins. When they are bought, it is usual to give the women a
+shift and petticoat, and the men at least trowsers, but this is very
+often omitted.
+
+Yesterday the motley head-dresses of the Portuguese inhabitants were
+seen to great advantage, in a sally through the streets, made by a kind
+of supplementary militia to enforce the closing of all shop-doors, and
+the shutting up of all slaves, on an alarm that the enemy was attacking
+the town to the southward. The officer leading the party was indeed
+dressed _en militaire_, with a drawn sword in one hand, and a pistol in
+the other. Then followed a company that Falstaff would hardly have
+enlisted, armed in a suitable manner, with such caps and hats as became
+the variety of trades to which the wearers belonged, the rear being
+brought up by a most singular figure, with a small drum-shaped black cap
+on the very top of a stiff pale head, a long oil-skin cloak, and in his
+left hand a huge Toledo ready drawn, which he carried upright. The
+militia are better dressed, and are now employed in regular turn of duty
+with the royal troops, who are going over to the patriots daily.
+
+Calling at the palace this forenoon, we learned that a hundred Indians
+are expected in the town, by way of assistance to the garrison. They
+wear their aboriginal dress, and are armed with slings, bows, and
+arrows. We are told their ideas of government consist in believing that
+implicit obedience is due both to king and priests. Brandy is the bribe
+for which they will do any thing; a dram of that liquor and a handful of
+mandioc flour being all the food they require when they come down to the
+port.
+
+This evening, as there are no horses to be hired here, we borrowed some
+from our English and French friends, and rode to Olinda by the long
+sandy isthmus, which connects it with Recife. This is the isthmus
+fortified with a palisade, by Sir John Lancaster, during his stay at
+Recife, which he plundered.[48] The beach is defended by two castles,
+sufficiently strong when their situation is considered; on one side a
+furious surf breaking at their base, on the other a deep estuary and
+flat ground beyond, so that they cannot be commanded. The sand is
+partially covered by shrubs; one is very splendid with thick leaves and
+purple bell-shaped flowers; many are like those of the eastern world;
+many are quite new to me. I was surprised at the extreme beauty of
+Olinda, or rather of its remains, for it is now in a melancholy state of
+ruin. All the richer inhabitants have long settled in the lower town.
+The revenues of the bishopric being now claimed by the crown, and the
+monasteries suppressed for the most part, even the factitious splendour
+caused by the ecclesiastical courts and inhabitants is no more. The very
+college where the youths received some sort of education, however
+imperfect, is nearly ruined[49], and there is scarcely a house of any
+size standing.
+
+[Note 48: See Introduction, p. 20.]
+
+[Note 49: This was the Jesuits' college founded under the
+administration of the admirable father Nobrega, and his companion De
+Gram. Here at eighteen years' old the celebrated Viera read lectures on
+rhetoric, and composed those commentaries on some of the classics, which
+were unfortunately lost in the course of the civil wars.]
+
+Olinda is placed on a few small hills, whose sides are in some
+directions broken down, so as to present the most abrupt and picturesque
+rock-scenery. These are embosomed in dark woods that seem coeval with
+the land itself: tufts of slender palms, here and there the broad head
+of an ancient mango, or the gigantic arms of the wide spreading
+silk-cotton tree, rise from out the rest in the near ground, and break
+the line of forest: amidst these, the convents, the cathedral, the
+bishop's palace, and the churches of noble, though not elegant
+architecture, are placed in stations which a Claude or a Poussin might
+have chosen for them; some stand on the steep sides of rocks, some on
+lawns that slope gently to the sea-shore: their colour is grey or pale
+yellow, with reddish tiles, except here and there where a dome is
+adorned with porcelain tiles of white and blue. Just as we reached the
+highest point of the town, looking across the woody bason round which
+the hills are grouped, the smoke from one of the out-posts caught our
+sight. The soldiers were standing or lying around, and their arms piled
+by them: they were just shadowed by tall trees behind, between whose
+trunks the scattered rays of the setting sun shed such a partial light
+as Salvator Rosa himself would not have disdained. These same soldiers,
+however, circumscribed our ride: we had intended to return by the inland
+road, but were not allowed to pass into it, as part, at least, lies
+without the posts, therefore we were obliged to return by the way we
+came.
+
+At the spot where the present guard is placed, and where indeed a strong
+guard is peculiarly necessary, the river Bibiriba falls into the
+aestuary, which was formerly the port of Olinda. A dam is built across
+with flood-gates which are occasionally opened; and on the dam there is
+a very pretty open arcade, where the neighbouring inhabitants were
+accustomed in peaceable times to go in the evening, and eat, drink, and
+dance. It is from this dam that all the good water used in Recife is
+daily conveyed in water-canoes, which come under the dam called the
+Varadouro, and are filled from twenty-three pipes, led so as to fill the
+canoes at once, without farther trouble. We saw seven-and-twenty of
+these little boats laden, paddle down the creek with the tide towards
+the town. A single oar used rather as rudder than paddle guides the tank
+to the middle of the stream, where it floats to its destination.
+
+The sun was low, long before we reached even the first of the two
+castles on our way back to the fort. The dogs had already begun their
+work of abomination. I saw one drag the arm of a negro from beneath the
+few inches of sand, which his master had caused to be thrown over his
+remains. It is on this beach that the measure of the insults dealt to
+the poor negroes is filled. When the negro dies, his fellow-slaves lay
+him on a plank, carry him to the beach, where beneath high-water mark
+they hoe a little sand over him; but to the new negro even this mark of
+humanity is denied. He is tied to a pole, carried out in the evening and
+dropped upon the beach, where it is just possible the surf may bear him
+away. These things sent us home sad and spiritless, notwithstanding the
+agreeable scenes we had been riding among.
+
+_29th_. The feast of St. Michael's has drawn out the Portuguese
+gentlewomen, of whom we had not yet seen one walking in the streets. The
+favourite dress seems to be black, with white shoes and white or
+coloured ribbons and flowers in the hair, with a mantle of lace or
+gauze, either black or white. We have seen a few priests too for the
+first time. I think the edict desiring them to keep within their convent
+walls, is in consequence of their being among the fomentors of the
+spirit of independence. The appropriation of so much of the church
+revenue by the court of Lisbon is of course unpopular among the clergy
+of the country; and it is not difficult for them to represent, what
+indeed is truth, to the people, that the drawing of so much treasure
+from the country to support Lisbon, which can neither govern nor protect
+them now, is a rational ground of complaint. It is said, that the morals
+of the clergy here are most depraved. This is probably true. Men cut off
+by vows like those of the Roman clergy, from the active charities of
+social life, have only the resources of science and literature against
+their passions and vices. But here the very names of literature and
+science are almost unknown. The college and library of Olinda are in
+decay. There is not one bookseller in Pernambuco, and the population of
+its different parishes amounts to 70,000 souls! A tolerably well written
+newspaper, of which I have not been able to procure the first number,
+was set up in March, under the title of "Aurora Pernambucana," with the
+following motto from Camoens:
+
+    Depois da procellosa tempestade,
+    Nocturna sombra e sibilante vento,
+    Tras a manha serena e claridade,
+    Esperanca de porto e salvamiente:
+
+alluding to the arrival of the news of the revolution in Portugal, on
+the 26th of that month, and the swearing of the governor, magistrates,
+&c. to adhere to the constitution as established by the Cortes. I am
+sorry to say that this only paper has been discontinued for the two last
+months, the editor having, as it seems, become a secretary of
+government, and having no longer time to superintend the press.[50]
+
+[Note 50: Not only has this paper been continued since, but others
+are now published in Recife.]
+
+_30th._--Last night the patriot troops attacked the line of defence at
+Olinda for four hours, but I do not believe there was any loss on either
+side. This morning a Portuguese frigate, the Don Pedro, with troops from
+Bahia, arrived. The reinforcement of 350 men, partly European, partly
+Bahian, has put the inhabitants, from the governor downwards, into the
+highest spirits; so that for once we see Pernambuco active, and
+cheerful, and alive. Men and women are out in their gayest habits, and
+the military are running and riding in all directions, not a little
+pleased to have some to relieve them in their constant watch and ward.
+
+Among other things which I learned by looking on, while the elders of
+families were engaged in the streets with the new-comers, was that the
+young Pernambucans are as dexterous in the use of signs as the Turkish
+lovers themselves, and that often a courtship is carried on in this way,
+and a marriage settled, without the parties having ever heard each
+other's voices. However, the general mode is for parents to settle their
+children's nuptials, without consulting any thing but pecuniary
+convenience.
+
+This day several of the officers and midshipmen of the Doris accompanied
+us to dine at the governor's, at half-past four o'clock. Our welcome
+was most cordial. His excellency took one end of the table, and an
+aide-de-camp the other: I was seated between M. and Madame do Rego. He
+seemed happy to talk of his old English friends of the Peninsula, with
+many of whom I am acquainted; and she had a thousand enquiries to make
+about England, whither she is very anxious to go. They apologised for
+having so little plate, but their handsome services were packed up in an
+English store-house, together with her excellency's jewels and other
+precious things. The cookery was a mixture of Portuguese and French.
+After the soup, a dish was handed round of boiled lean beef, slices of
+fat salt pork, and sausages, and with this dish, rice boiled with oil
+and sweet herbs. Roast beef was presented, in compliment to the English,
+very little roasted. Salads, and fish of various kinds, were dressed in
+a peculiar manner; poultry and other things in the French fashion.
+
+The dessert was served on another table. Besides our European dessert of
+fruit, cakes, and wine, all the puddings, pies, and tarts, formed part
+of it. It was decorated with flowers, and there was a profusion of
+sugar-plums of every kind. The company rose from the dining-table, and
+adjourned to the other, which Madame do Rego told me should have been
+spread in a separate apartment; but they have so recently taken
+possession of their house, that they have not one yet fitted up for the
+purpose. The governor and his guests proposed many toasts
+alternately--The King of England, the King of Portugal, the navy of
+England, the King of France[51], Luis do Rego, and the captaincy of
+Pernambuco, &c.--When we all rose at once from table; some of the
+company went on board ship, but most adjourned to the drawing-room, a
+comfortable apartment, furnished with blue satin damask, where we were
+joined by the French naval officers of His Most Christian Majesty's ship
+Sappho, and several ladies and gentlemen of the city. We had some
+excellent music. Madame do Rego has an admirable voice, and there were
+several good singers and players on the piano. It was a more pleasant,
+polished evening than I had expected to pass in Pernambuco, especially
+now in a state of siege.
+
+[Note 51: Mr. Laine, the very pleasing and gentlemanlike French
+consul, was present.]
+
+_Wednesday, 3d October._--I went on board on Monday, and, provokingly
+enough, the patriots chose that very night to make an attack upon the
+out-post of the Affogadas, so I did not see the governor, at the head of
+his troops, march out to meet them; nor did I hear the national hymn
+sung by the regiments as they filed along on their return from a
+successful sally.[52] Yesterday, nothing occurred worth noting; we had
+the consul and British merchants on board to dinner, and the day passed
+as such days usually do.
+
+[Note 52: Since writing my Journal, I have seen the official account
+of this attack on the Villa of the Affagados. It was a well planned
+expedition; but the raw troops were easily driven out of the villa of
+which they had already possessed themselves, by throwing a bridge over a
+branch of the Capabaribe, by the veteran soldiers of Do Rego.
+
+The same morning, i.e. that of the 1st of October, the provisional junta
+of Pernambuco had addressed that of the patriots of Goyana, offering
+peace, saying, that as their avowed object was the dismissal of L. do
+Rego, he was ready to withdraw himself; that he had twice offered the
+council of Recife to do so, and had besides sent to the Cortes to beg
+they would appoint a successor, and allow him to retire; that his motive
+for this was the desire of peace, and of procuring the tranquillity of
+the province, so disturbed by these civil broils. They tell the patriots
+also, that the Don Pedro is arrived, and assure them that the troops
+brought by the frigate shall be employed only in the defence of Recife.
+They also intimate, that they are sure of assistance from the French and
+English frigates then there, such assistance having been offered, on the
+ground of the English and French property in the place. Now I know that
+no such assistance was offered by the English frigate. It was asked; but
+a strict neutrality had been enjoined by the government, all
+interference was refused, and no more was offered than _personal_
+protection to either English, French, or Portuguese; and of course
+protection for English property being the purpose for which the frigate
+was there, was understood by all parties.]
+
+Having learned that the patriots have refused to allow the linen
+belonging to the ship, which had been sent to the country to be washed,
+to return to the town, it was determined that we should send to their
+head-quarters, and remonstrate against this very inconvenient mode of
+annoying the port. I obtained leave to accompany the messengers, and
+accordingly we all went on shore immediately after breakfast. Our first
+business was to procure passports, and to learn the countersigns; after
+which Capt. Graham, with Col. Cottar, the governor's principal
+aide-de-camp, rode with us to the out-posts, where we left them, with an
+intention of returning to dine at Mr. Stewart's, to meet Luis do Rego's
+family. Our party consisted of M. Caumont, to act as interpreter, Mr.
+Dance, bearing the letter, my cousin Mr. Glennie as my cavalier, and
+myself. It was the first time we had had an opportunity of passing the
+lines, and we felt like school-boys who had stolen beyond bounds, and
+well we might; the scenery was fresh and lovely, and the day as fine as
+possible.
+
+Pernambuco is not a walled town, but broad rapid rivers and aestuaries
+surround it, and it is only approachable by the roads and causeways; the
+banks thrown up across these, for present defence, are such as might
+stop the Brazilian cavalry for a few minutes, or afford cover for
+musketry; but their best defence is the swamp at the mouth of the
+Capabaribe, which is flooded at high water, and which extends nearly to
+the Bibiribi. At the edge of the swamp there is a wooden palisade, where
+we left the last post of the royalists, and took leave of our friends,
+who had accompanied us so far. After riding across the marsh, which by
+the by is very fit for rice ground, and is surrounded by cocoa-nut and
+tamarind trees, we came to the main stream of the Capabaribe, a deep,
+broad, and very rapid river; its sides are steep, and the water
+beautifully clear[53]: its banks are studded with country-houses, and
+adorned with groves and gardens, for the present abandoned by their
+owners, who have taken refuge in Recife.
+
+[Note 53: The Capabaribe has a course of about fifty leagues, but is
+only navigable to about six miles from the sea, on account of rapids and
+falls in the upper part; it has two mouths, one at Recife, and the other
+at Os Affogados. Chor. Braz.]
+
+The hedges on each side of the road are woven of palm-leaves, and where
+not quite new, are covered with all splendid creeping plants; the common
+and winged passion-flower, white, blue, and yellow clematis, jasmine,
+china-rose, and many others, both gay and sweet. The ditches, too, were
+full of colour, but we rode too fast to stay to collect plants; and I
+could only promise myself, at some future time, to gather one that
+appeared like a bog bean, but its colour bright purple.
+
+About two miles from Do Rego's last out-post, we came to the first post
+of the patriots, at a country-house on a rising ground, where arms piled
+at the door, and a sort of ragged guard, consisting of a merry-looking
+negro with a fowling-piece, a Brazilian with a blunderbuss, and two or
+three of doubtful colour with sticks, swords pistols, &c., told us an
+officer was to be found. After a few minutes parley, we found he was not
+authorised to receive our letter, so we rode on under the direction of
+the old Brazilian with his blunderbuss, who, being on foot, threatened
+to shoot us if we attempted to ride faster than he walked. The slow pace
+at which we advanced gave us leisure to remark the beauties of a
+Brazilian spring. Gay plants, with birds still gayer hovering over them,
+sweet smelling flowers, and ripe oranges and citrons, formed a beautiful
+fore-ground to the very fine forest-trees that cover the plains, and
+clothe the sides of the low hills in the neighbourhood of Pernambuco.
+Here and there a little space is cleared for the growth of mandioc,
+which at this season is perfectly green: the wooden huts of the
+cultivators are generally on the road-side, and, for the most part, each
+has its little grove of mango and orange-trees. At one of these little
+homesteads, we found a pretty large guard-house, established where four
+roads meet, and there our foot guide left us, and a gentlemanlike young
+officer, of the Brazilian Cacadores, rode with us, and entertained us by
+calling Luis do Rego a tyrant, and attributing the siege of Pernambuco
+entirely to the governor's obstinacy, in not joining the people of the
+province in throwing off the dominion of his master. Round the
+guard-house a number of negro girls, with broad flat baskets on their
+heads, were selling fruit and cold water: they had decked their woolly
+hair, and the edges of their baskets, with garlands of the scarlet
+althaea; their light blue or white cloaks were thrown gracefully across
+their dusky shoulders, and white jackets, so that it was such a picture
+as the early Spaniards might have drawn of their Eldorado.
+
+After riding a few miles, we came suddenly to the foot of an abrupt
+hill, on whose sides there were scattered groups of the most magnificent
+trees I ever beheld. There we were met by a small military party, which,
+after a parley with our guide, rather ordered, than invited us to ride
+up. In a few seconds, we came to a steep yellow sandstone bank, shaded
+on one side by tall trees, and open on the other to a lake surrounded
+by woody hills, on the most distant of which, the white buildings of
+Olinda sparkled like snow. On the top of the bank, and in the act of
+descending, was a group of forty horsemen, one of the foremost of whom
+bore a white banner; several were dressed in splendid military habits,
+others in the plain costume of the landed proprietors. These were
+deputies from Paraiba on their way to propose terms to Luis do Rego;
+they had just left the head-quarters of the besieging army, where the
+provisional government of Goyana is stationed, and were accompanied by a
+guard of honour: after exchanging civilities, part of the guard turned
+back with us, and the deputies went on their way. Having reached the top
+of the hill, we found about a hundred men, tolerably well armed, but
+strangely dressed, awaiting us; and there we were detained till our
+guide rode forward to ask leave to bring us to head-quarters. I was
+sorry I had no means of sketching any part of the beautiful landscape,
+which, besides the striking features I have mentioned before, now
+displayed a broad river, over which there is a white stone bridge of
+several arches; at one end, a large house, more like a palace, with its
+arches and corridors, and the encampment of the army and the horse
+picquets, and, in short, a bustle and animation that seldom happen to
+adorn so fine a scene. Our guide soon returned with eighteen or twenty
+mounted soldiers, whose appearance was rather wild than military: the
+guard presented arms as we parted from them, and we soon cantered down
+the hill towards the main body of the troops. Not above two hundred had
+the arms or accoutrements of soldiers; but there were dresses and
+weapons of every kind, leather, cloth, and linen; short jackets and long
+Scotch plaids, and every tint of colour in their faces, from the sallow
+European to the ebony African. Military honours were paid us by these
+ragged regiments, and we were conducted to the palace square, where Mr.
+Dance and Mr. Caumont dismounted, and I determined to await the issue of
+their conference, with my cousin in the court.
+
+This, however, was not permitted. In a few minutes, a smart little man,
+speaking tolerable French, came and told me the _government_ desired my
+company. I suspected a mistake of the word government for governor, and
+endeavoured to decline the honour; but no denial could be taken, and the
+little man, who told me he was secretary to government, accordingly
+assisted me to dismount, and showed me the way to the palace. The hall
+was filled with men and horses, like a barrack stable, excepting a
+corner which served as an hospital for those wounded in the late
+skirmishes, the groans of the latter mingling uncouthly with the
+soldiers' cheerful noisy voices. The stairs were so crowded, that we got
+up with difficulty, and then I found that I was indeed to be confronted
+with the whole strength of the provisional government. At the end of a
+long dirty room, that had once been handsome, as the form of the windows
+and carving of the panels on which there were traces of colour and
+gilding, indicated, there was an old black hair sofa, on the centre of
+which I was placed, with Mr. Dance on one side, and Mr. Glennie on the
+other; by Mr. Dance sat the little secretary, and next to him our
+interpreter, in old-fashioned high-backed chairs; the rest of the
+furniture of the room consisted of nine seats of different sizes and
+forms, placed in a semicircle fronting the sofa, and on each of these
+sat one of the members of the junta of the provisional government, who
+act the part of senators or generals, as the occasion may require. To
+each of these I was introduced; the names of Albuquerque, Cavalcante,
+and Broderod, struck me, but I heard imperfectly, and forget most of
+them: some wore handsome military coats, others the humbler dress of
+farmers. They politely told me they would not read the letter while I
+was waiting below, but as soon as we were seated, the secretary read it
+aloud. Instead of taking any notice of its contents, the secretary began
+a long discourse, setting forth the injustice of the Portuguese governor
+and government towards Brazil in general, and the Pernambucans in
+particular; that in order to resist that injustice, they had formed the
+present respectable government, pointing to the junta, without intending
+the least detriment to the rights of the king. That surely they could
+not be called rebels, as they marched under the royal flag of Portugal;
+but Luis do Rego might be reasonably stigmatised as such, for he had
+fired on that banner. He then went off into a long harangue upon the
+general principles of government; but as I understood little of the
+language, much of it was lost upon me, as well as on my companions; but
+I have no doubt that it served to impress the respectable junta with a
+higher idea of their secretary's understanding and eloquence:
+altogether, the speech reminded me of some of the best written of the
+Carbonari addresses of Italy; and there was something in the air,
+manner, and scene, not unlike what one imagines of the Barraca meetings
+of those ill-guided, misused people.[54] We then talked a great deal in
+French to the secretary, who repeated every word to the respectable
+junta, and at length got him to attend to a proposal for releasing our
+linen, and another for supplying the ship with fresh provisions. We had
+been paying forty dollars per bullock in the town; they agreed that
+their price should not exceed ten, if we sent boats to the Rio Doce, or
+Paratije[55] for them. This is the mouth of a small stream on the
+northside of Olinda. And I must not omit to mention, that they offered
+to allow us to take off fresh provisions for our English or French
+friends in the town.
+
+[Note 54: I regret exceedingly that I was then so ignorant of the
+language. I have since learned that there were many causes of particular
+grievance in this province. I do not mean to speak disrespectfully of
+the popular meetings of Brazil; they had all in view the best objects,
+national independence and civil liberty under reformed laws. The first
+object has been secured to them by their constitutional emperor, the
+last is growing up under his government; time only can perfect it. Happy
+would it have been for Italy, if its popular meetings had possessed the
+mild character of those of Brazil, and still happier, had they found in
+their prince a defender and protector.]
+
+[Note 55: At Rio Doce, Brito Freire and Pedro Jaques landed to
+assist Vieyra in the recovery of Pernambuco. See p. 25. of the
+Introduction.]
+
+The junta was extremely anxious to learn if there was a probability of
+England's acknowledging the independence of Brazil, or if she took part
+at all in the struggle; and many were the questions, and very variously
+were they shaped, which the secretary addressed to us on that head. They
+are of course violent in their language concerning Luis do Rego, in
+proportion as he has done his military duty, in keeping them at bay
+with his handful of men: and like all oppositions they can afford to
+reason upon general principles, because they have not to feel the
+hindrances of action, and the jarring of private interests in the
+disposal and fulfilment of office.
+
+I was sitting opposite to one of the windows of the council-room, and
+had been remarking for some time, that the sun was getting very low,
+and, therefore, rose to go, having received a note from the secretary,
+ordering the officers at their advanced posts to offer no hindrance to
+the passing of any thing belonging to His British Majesty's frigate,
+Doris. But we were not suffered to depart without a hearty invitation to
+sup and spend the night: and a stirrup-cup (a huge glass) was brought,
+and a bottle of wine, with about half as much water, poured into it; it
+was then handed to me to begin, and all fourteen received it in turn. By
+this time the guard was drawn out, the band played the national hymn, to
+which we all listened bare-headed, and so we mounted among those
+wild-looking men, in that strange, yet lovely landscape, just as the
+evening mist began to veil the lower land, and the bright red evening
+sun to gild the topmost branches of the forest.
+
+Our journey home was much more rapid than our journey out. The evening
+was cool, and the horses eager to return; but we did not reach Mr. S.'s
+till two hours after sunset, when we found that, after the party had
+waited till six o'clock, Captain Graham had insisted on their dining.
+The governor was uneasy, and offered to send a party of Cacadores in
+search, as he kindly said, of me,--but this, of course, was refused; the
+captain assuring his excellency, that if the patriots detained his
+lieutenant, he would take him back with his own men, and that as to me,
+while I was with my two companions, he had not the least fear concerning
+me. We were accompanied by the same officer, who had been our companion
+on the latter part of the ride to head-quarters, back almost to the town
+lines; and when we told this to the governor, he was sorry we did not
+know his name, that in case he should ever have it in his power to show
+him kindness, he might do so. A pleasant chat on the adventures of our
+ride, a hearty supper, and a little concert closed the day, which, upon
+the whole, was to me a most agreeable one.
+
+_Thursday, 4th._--Received Madame do Rego, one of her daughters, Miss
+S., and several gentlemen, on board. Most of the party were sea-sick,
+from the rolling of the ship, caused by the heavy swell at the
+anchorage. They were, however, highly charmed with their visit,
+particularly with the fireworks with which we saluted the ladies, who
+had never been on board a British frigate before, on their departure.
+
+_Friday, 5th._--According to the agreement made with the patriot
+officers, on Wednesday, one launch and the second cutter went to Rio
+Doce to receive bullocks and other provisions. The officers and men were
+most kindly received, and returned with many presents of fresh stock and
+vegetables, which the patriots forced upon them. A military band
+attended them on landing, and conducted them to the place of meeting
+with the chiefs.
+
+Messrs. Biddle and Glennie, being on shore surveying, near Cabo de Sant
+Augustin[56], were detained as prisoners for a few hours, by a patriot
+detachment; but, as it appeared to be only for the purpose of obtaining
+money, and done by some subaltern, no notice was taken of it.
+
+[Note 56: The easternmost land of South America. It has two little
+harbours, for small vessels, each of which is defended by a small fort,
+and has a celebrated chapel to our Lady of Nazareth.]
+
+_Saturday, 6th._--The frigate got under weigh to take a cruize, and if
+possible find a quieter anchorage. Mr. Dance with a party went for more
+provisions, to Rio Doce. The surf at the landing place was so high, that
+they were obliged to get into canoes, and leave the boats grappled at
+some distance from the beach. A guard of honour and military band
+attended them, as on the former day, and they were, moreover, pressed to
+dine with the commander of the post, which they gladly did. The
+dining-room was a long hut, built of wood and plaited palm leaves. In
+the centre, was a long table spread with a clean and very handsome
+cloth. The few chairs the place afforded were appropriated to the
+strangers, and the rest of the company stood during the meal. To the
+strangers, also, were given the spoons and forks, but the want of them
+did not appear to incommode the Brazilians. To each person a small
+basin of good beef broth, _bien doree_, was served, and for the rest
+every man put his hand in the dish. Two principal messes occupied the
+centre of the table, one, a platter, containing a quantity of mandioc
+flour, raw; and the other a pile of fish, dressed with oil, garlic, and
+pimento. Each person began by stirring a quantity of the flour into his
+broth, till it acquired the consistence of brose, and then helping
+himself to the fish, which was cut up in convenient pieces, dipped it
+into the brose, and eat it with his fingers. Around the two principal
+dishes, were others of a most savoury nature,--eels fried with sweet
+herbs, shellfish stewed with wine and pimento, and others of the same
+kind. Into these also each man put his hand indiscriminately, and
+dipping his morsel into his basin, set our officers the example of
+eating that substitute for wheaten bread, and of swallowing, without
+regard to neatness or order, all manner of messes, mixed together, and
+touched by all hands. After dinner, a slave handed round a silver basin,
+with water and towels, after which a number of toasts were given, and
+the entertainment concluded with vivas, when the guard and band attended
+the officers to the boats, where the bullocks were ready to embark, and
+slaves to carry the English through the surf to the canoes, which
+conveyed them to the boats. On their return, I saw for the first time,
+the pitanga, a berry of which an excellent preserve is made; it grows
+upon a beautiful shrub, scarcely to be distinguished, either in flower
+or leaf, from the broad-leaved myrtle; the berry is as large as a
+filbert, and divided and coloured like the large red love-apple. Mr.
+Dance brought me, also, a beautiful green paroquet, the tamest,
+loveliest thing, with his emerald coat, and sparkling eye, I ever
+saw.[57]
+
+[Note 57: All the parrot tribe in Brazil is beautiful: but neither
+parrots nor parroquets talk well. However, no slave ship comes from
+Africa without a grey parrot or two; so that in the towns they are
+almost as numerous as the native birds, and much more noisy, for they
+talk incessantly.]
+
+_Sunday, 7th._--We continued to cruize opposite to Olinda and Recife,
+and alarmed some of our friends on shore, by sailing round the English
+bank, a thing hitherto believed impossible, for so large a ship.
+
+_Monday, 8th._--We find to-day, on anchoring, that terms have been
+entered into with the patriots, by which their deputies are to be in the
+council, and take an equal share in the administration, and on the other
+hand, they are to withdraw the investing troops, and leave Luis do Rego
+at the head of the military department, until the arrival of the next
+despatches from Lisbon. These pacific measures were brought about by the
+Paraiban deputies whom we met on Wednesday.
+
+_Tuesday, 9th._--Mr. Dance, Mr. Glennie, and I, were deputed to take
+charge of a large party of midshipmen, who had not been able before to
+take a run on shore, to spend the day on Cocoa-nut Island, which lies a
+good way up the harbour, and within the reef of Pernambuco. As we sailed
+along the rock, we observed that it is covered with echini, polypii,
+barnacles, limpets, and crusted with white bivalves less than oysters or
+cockles, yet containing a fish not unlike the latter in appearance, and
+the former in flavour. We had not exactly calculated the effect of the
+tide so far up the harbour as Cocoa-nut Island, consequently we got
+aground in the outer channel, at a considerable distance from the shore.
+The sailors pushed me over one flat bank in the gig, and then carried me
+to the beach; the midshipmen waded, and the officers and boats with the
+crews, went in search of a deeper passage, where they might approach
+with our provisions. Meantime the boys and I had full leisure to examine
+the island. It is perfectly flat and covered with white sand; the shore
+scattered with fragments of shells and coral. As its name imports, it is
+one grove of cocoa-nut trees, excepting where the present occupant has
+cleared space for a market-garden and fishponds. These last are very
+extensive; and as they secure a supply of fish at times when the rough
+seas of the outer roads prevent the canoes from going out, they have
+answered extremely well to the speculator. The garden produces European
+as well as Brazilian vegetables, in great perfection: Fruit-trees also
+thrive very well.[58] In the cuts for the fishponds I observed below
+the sand, a rich black earth, full of decayed vegetables, which probably
+renders this apparently sandy land, so fertile. The ponds were half
+covered with the white water-lily, and some other aquatic plants of the
+country. The whole island abounds in gay shrubs and gaudy flowers[59],
+where the humming-bird, here called the _beja flor_ or kiss-flower, with
+his sapphire wings and ruby crest, hovers continually, and the painted
+butterflies vie with him and his flowers in tints and beauty. The very
+reptiles are beautiful here. The snake and the lizard are singularly so,
+at least in colour. We found a very large rough caterpillar, each hair
+or prickle of which is divided into five or six branches; the rings of
+its body are scarlet, yellow, and brown; and the country people believe
+that it hurts the udders of cows, and prevents their giving milk, if it
+does not actually suck them. They are therefore very unpopular here,
+because the whole island that is not garden-ground is pasture, and
+supplies a great deal of the milk for the market of Recife.
+
+[Note 58: All the orange and lemon tribe, papaws, cashew nuts,
+melons and gourds, pomegranates, guavas, &c.]
+
+[Note 59: The Madagascar perriwinkle is the most common, many
+parasitic plants, and almost all the papilionaceous and the bell-shaped
+creepers: the passion flowers also are common.]
+
+While we were endeavouring to forget our hunger by examining the island,
+and drinking cocoa-nut juice, and wondering at many an ordinary thing,
+though new to young untravelled eyes, and such were those of most of the
+party, our boats were taking a circuitous track, and at length at ten
+o'clock landed our provisions, when we made a hearty breakfast, sitting
+on a sail spread under the palm shade. The elder boys with their guns,
+then accompanied Mr. Dance and the captain of a merchant vessel, who
+volunteered to act as Cicerone, to shoot; and the younger ones staid
+with me to collect flowers, gather vegetables, and with the assistance
+of the boats' crews, to superintend the preparations for dinner. At four
+o'clock the sportsmen returned, bringing red-crested woodpeckers,
+finches of various hues, humming-birds, black and yellow pies, and
+others of gay plumage and delicate shape, quite new to us all. A merrier
+party certainly never met, but the best of the expedition was to come.
+The tide was now favourable; and we determined to do a spirited thing,
+and instead of going all the way down the harbour, which would have
+kept us out beyond the time allowed us, we ran through a passage in the
+reef called Mother Cary's passage, because few things but the birds
+think of swimming there. The merchant-boat went first, our gig next, and
+as I sat in the stern of the large boat that was to follow, it was
+beautiful, but something fearful, to see them dash through that boiling
+surf between the rocks and rise over the wave secure beyond it, nor was
+the sensation less mixed when we followed. There is at all times
+something triumphant in the sensation of sailing over the waters; but
+when they are roughened by storms, or rendered fearful by rocks or
+shoals, the triumph approaches to the sublime, and in it there is a
+secret dread, though not of ocean, and a raising of the soul to him who
+made the ocean, and gave man mind to master it. I am not ashamed to own,
+that as I looked round on my young charge, when Mr. Dance whispered "sit
+still and say nothing," and then stepping to the bow of the boat called
+aloud to the helmsman, "steady!" I had a moment, though but a moment, of
+exquisite anxiety. But we were through in an instant, and soon alongside
+of the frigate, where we were praised for doing what few had done
+before, and having shown the possibility of doing that safely, which at
+some future time it might be of importance to know could be done at all.
+
+_Wednesday, 10th._--We went on shore early for the first time since the
+armistice. The guns are removed from the streets and a few of the shops
+are re-opened; the negroes are no longer confined within doors, and the
+priests have reappeared; their broad hats and ample cloaks give them an
+importance among the crowd, which now is busy and active, and seemingly
+intent on redeeming the time lost to trade by the siege. I was struck by
+the great preponderance of the black population. By the last census, the
+population of Pernambuco, including Olinda was seventy thousand, of
+which not above one third are white: the rest are mulatto or negro. The
+mulattoes are, generally speaking, more active, more industrious, and
+more lively than either of the other classes. They have amassed great
+fortunes, in many instances, and are far from being backward in
+promoting the cause of independence in Brazil. Few even of the free
+negroes have become very rich. A free negro, when his shop or garden has
+repaid his care, by clothing him and his wife each in a handsome black
+dress, with necklace and armlets for the lady, and knee and shoe buckles
+of gold, to set off his own silk stockings, seldom toils much more, but
+is quite contented with daily food. Many, of all colours, when they can
+afford to purchase a negro, sit down exempt from further care. They make
+the negro work for them, or beg for them, and so as they may eat their
+bread in quiet, care little how it is obtained.
+
+The European Portuguese, are extremely anxious to avoid intermarriage
+with born Brazilians, and prefer giving their daughters and fortunes to
+the meanest clerk of European birth, rather than to the richest and most
+meritorious Brazilian. They have become aware of the prodigious
+inconvenience, if not evil, they have brought on themselves by the
+importation of Africans, and now no doubt, look forward with dread to
+the event of a revolution, which will free their slaves from their
+authority, and, by declaring them all men alike, will authorise them to
+resent the injuries they have so long and patiently borne.
+
+_Thursday, 11th._--As every thing seems quietly settled between the
+royalist and patriot chiefs, we are preparing to take leave of
+Pernambuco, and it is not without regret, for we have been kindly
+treated by the Portuguese, and hospitably received by our own
+countrymen. We went on shore to provide necessaries and comforts for our
+farther voyage. Among the latter I bought some excellent sweetmeats[60],
+which are made in the interior, and brought to market in neat little
+wooden kegs, each containing six or eight pounds. It is astonishing to
+see the weight brought from two and three hundred miles' distance, by
+the small and slight but very swift horses of the country. The baggage
+horses are not shod any more than those for riding: the latter are
+almost universally trained to a kind of running pace, easy in itself,
+but not very agreeable at first, to those accustomed to English horses.
+To-day I saw and tasted the jerked beef, _charqui_, of Spanish South
+America. It appears, when hanging in bales at the shop-doors, like
+bundles of thick ragged leather. It is prepared by cutting the flesh in
+wide strips, clean off the bones, slightly salting, pressing, and drying
+in the air. In this state it might well have served for saddle-cloths to
+the Buccaneers, as tradition says they dressed their meat under their
+saddles. However that may be, the beef is good. Here the common mode of
+using it is to cut it in small squares, and boil it in the mandioc
+pottage, which is the principal food of the poorer inhabitants and the
+slaves.
+
+[Note 60: The convents are, generally speaking, the places where the
+more delicate preserves are made. Those I bought were of Guava, cashew
+apple, citron, and lime. The cashew particularly good. They go by the
+general name of _Doce_.]
+
+After I had ended my marketing, I went to call on a Portuguese family,
+and as it was the first private Portuguese house I had been in, I was
+curious to notice the difference between it and the English houses here.
+The building and general disposition of the apartments are the same, and
+the drawing-room only differed in being better furnished, and with every
+article English, even to a handsome piano of Broadwood's; but the
+dining-room was completely foreign; the floor was covered with painted
+cloth, and the walls hung round with English prints and Chinese
+pictures, without distinction of subject or size. At one end of the room
+was a long table, covered with a glass case, enclosing a large piece of
+religious wax-work; the whole _praesepia_, ministering angels, three
+kings, and all, with moss, artificial flowers, shells and beads,
+smothered in gauze and tiffany, bespangled with gold and silver, San
+Antonio and St. Christopher being in attendance on the right and left;
+the rest of the furniture consisted of ordinary chairs and tables, and a
+kind of beaufet or sideboard: from the ceiling, nine bird-cages were
+hanging, each with its little inhabitant; canaries, grey finches with a
+note almost as fine, and the beautiful widow-bird, were the favourites.
+In larger cages in a passage room, there were more parrots and paroquets
+than I should have thought agreeable in one house; but they are
+well-bred birds, and seldom scream all together. We were no sooner
+seated in the dining-room, than biscuit, cake, wine, and liqueurs, were
+handed round, the latter in diminutive tumblers; a glass of water was
+then offered to each, and we were pressed to taste it, as being the very
+best in Recife; it proceeds from a spring in the garden of the convent
+of Jerusalem, two miles from town, and the only conduit from that spring
+leads to the garden of a sister convent here. From the lady, I learned,
+that the porous jars for cooling water, that we find here, are all made
+in the neighbourhood of Bahia, there being no manufactory here, except a
+few coarse cottons for clothing for the slaves. The air and manners of
+the family we visited, though neither English nor French, were perfectly
+well bred, and the dress pretty much that of civilised Europe, only that
+the men wore cotton jackets instead of cloth coats, and were without
+neck-cloths; when they go out of doors, however, they dress like
+Englishmen.
+
+Returning from our visit, we met a monk, carried out to be buried by
+several of his brethren, with candle, book, and bell, and all the
+solemnities which human feeling has invented to solace its own fears and
+griefs, under the pretence of honouring the dead, and to which the
+Romish church has in such cases as these, added all her pageantry. I
+could not help contrasting it with the burials on the beach of Olinda,
+and smiling at the vanities that attach themselves even to corruption.
+"But man, vain man, plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven, as
+make the angels weep."
+
+But our horses were awaiting us, and we left our indignation and our
+pity for the follies of some, and the miseries of others, to enjoy, for
+the first time since the posts were free, the country air. When we went
+to Bibiriba, soldiers stopped us to question at every turn; piles of
+arms, and horses ready accoutred at the door of every considerable
+residence, showed that military posts had taken place of the pleasures
+of the country-houses, and accounted for the solitariness of the roads.
+Now the scene is changed--the paths are crowded with negroes, young and
+old, in their picturesque, though gaudy dresses, with baskets of fruit,
+fish, and other provisions, on their heads; little carts, of which we
+had not before seen one, begin to appear, and the fine oxen which draw
+them form no bad contrast to the half-starved bullocks of the town.
+'Twas a cool evening, and the sun was just low enough to gild the edges
+of the palms and other tall trees, which shot up with their deep black
+shadows into the thin pure light, making an effect, that even Titian's
+landscape pencil has not reached. Our ride extended to Mr. S.'s
+country-house, which is, I believe, on the same plan with all the others
+hereabouts, and which I can only compare to an Oriental bungalow; one
+story very commodiously laid out, a veranda surrounding it, and standing
+in the midst of a little paddock, part of which is garden ground, and
+part pasture, generally hedged with limes and roses, and shaded with
+fruit trees, is the general description of the country sitios about
+Pernambuco; the difference arising from the taste of the inhabitant, or
+the situation of the ground, being allowed for. The low rent of these
+pleasant little gardens is surprising; but it arises in great measure
+from the indolence and consequent poverty of the holders of original
+grants of land here: as long as their negroes and estates maintained
+them, they paid no attention to the particular parts that, being near
+the town, might have been at all times productive. Now, that sugar and
+cotton are no longer in such demand, nearly half the fazendas or
+factories are ruined, and such is become the indolent temper of the
+people, that rather than seek to redeem their estates, they will take
+the smallest annuity for a portion.
+
+On our way to the sitio, we stopped at a kind of public-house or venta;
+it is like an English huckster's, and contains a little of every thing,
+cloth and candles, fruit and lard, wine and pimento, which are retailed
+at no very extravagant profit to the poor; the draught wine is really
+good, being port of excellent quality, without the quantity of brandy
+which the English market requires. By the time we repassed it on our way
+home, many a negro was spending his day's savings, and becoming as happy
+as wine could make him; and many a traveller was regaling himself with
+bread, garlic, and salt, and preparing to spread his mat, and lie down
+in the open air for the night. Night within the tropics is always a
+gayer and more peopled time than with us; the heat of the day detains
+many within doors all day, and evening and night become the favourite
+hours for walking. As we returned through Boa Vista we passed many
+groups enjoying like ourselves the pleasant air, and gazing idly on the
+reflections of the white houses and waving trees in the water; while the
+fire flies flitting from bush to bush, seemed like fragments of stars
+come down to adorn the moonlight.
+
+_Friday, 12th._--- The Prince Royal of Portugal's birth-day. There is a
+levee at the palace. The company bow first to the governor, then to the
+Prince's picture, which is placed in the middle of the audience-room, to
+receive its due honours; and then the _beja mano_, or kiss hands, takes
+place. The forts and ships saluted; we of course did the same; and the
+people all dressed and went to mass, as on a holiday. One thing
+contributed, however, in no small degree to the enjoyment of the day.
+The troops, which lately arrived from Bahia, re-embarked in order to
+return. Their whole behaviour had been disorderly, and their drunkenness
+and riot, during the ten days they were here, had quite disgusted the
+people; while the disposition they manifested to join the patriots, had
+rendered them but suspicious auxiliaries to the governor.
+
+_Saturday, 13th._--I took leave of my amiable friends at the palace.
+Madame do Rego gave me several specimens of amethyst, and the stone
+called minha nova (like aqua marine), and also a fine piece of gold ore
+of the province. She told me that Luiz do Rego had sent home many fine
+minerals from the captaincy, and also some fossils. She described some
+enormous bones, which may have belonged to the elephant or the mammoth,
+found at no great distance from Recife in digging a well, and, as far as
+I could understand, in such soil as I had observed lay under the sand in
+Cocoa-nut Island.[61]
+
+[Note 61: The Sugar-loaf Hill, in the ridge of Priaca, about eight
+leagues N.E. of the villa of Penedo, has a lake on its western
+declivity, where enormous bones have been found; and on the north side
+there is a fearful cavern.--_Chor. Brazil._]
+
+A great dinner was given to-day, by the merchants, to the captain and
+officers. The governor, and other persons of dignity in the town, met
+them; I am told it was a very handsome dinner, that there was plenty of
+every kind of wine, and that nothing could exceed the friendly
+politeness of the governor and his party. I had remained at Mr. S.'s,
+where most of the company visited me after tea; and then we took leave
+of Pernambuco, where we had received much kindness, and had at least the
+enjoyment of novelty. The scene at our embarking was very pretty. Our
+friends went with us to the jetty, and our boats lying in the clear
+moonshine beneath it, with sailors going up and down preparing for us,
+the harbour and the shipping doubled by the clear reflection in the
+still water, heightened and set off the sparkling of the breakers that
+dashed against the outer fort and light-house. Through these we soon
+made our way and reached the ship, where I have once more taken
+possession of my cabin, and put it in order for sea.
+
+We leave Pernambuco, with a firm persuasion that this part of Brazil at
+least will never again tamely submit to Portugal. Where the firmness and
+conduct of Do Rego have failed to hold the captaincy in obedience, it
+will be in vain for other governors to attempt it, particularly so long
+as the state of the mother country is such as that she can neither fight
+with nor for her colonies; and while she considers them only as taxable
+parts of her states, that are bound to support her in her weakness.[62]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 62: We left Pernambuco on the 14th Oct. 1821. Before Nov. 18th
+of the same year, the Cortes of Lisbon had recalled Luiz do Rego and all
+the European troops; had repented of that recal, and had countermanded
+it, and sent reinforcements. But by the time they arrived, the
+captain-general had embarked on board a French ship for Europe; and the
+junta, after provisioning the ships with the troops, forbid them to
+land, and sent them towards Rio Janeiro.]
+
+_Sunday, Oct. 14th._--We got under weigh after breakfast, and soon lost
+sight of Pernambuco. All Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, we coasted along
+within sight of the shores of Brazil. They are hilly and very woody, the
+green of the sloping banks being often interrupted by bright white
+patches, which seem to be of sand. In the evening of Tuesday the 16th,
+we anchored in the bay of All Saints, opposite to the town of St.
+Salvador, commonly called Bahia. It was quite dark before we got in, so
+that we lost the first entrance-view of that magnificent harbour; but
+the scattered lights show us the great extent and high situation of the
+town.
+
+_Wednesday, 17th._--This morning, at day-break, my eyes opened on one of
+the finest scenes they ever beheld. A city, magnificent in appearance
+from the sea, is placed along the ridge and on the declivity of a very
+high and steep hill: the richest vegetation breaks through the white
+houses at intervals, and beyond the city, reaches along to the outer
+point of land on which the picturesque church and convent of Sant
+Antonio da Barre is placed. Here and there the bright red soil shows
+itself in harmony with the tiling of the houses. The _tracery_ of forts,
+the bustle of shipping, hills melting in the distance, and the very form
+of the bay, with its promontories and islands, altogether finish this
+charming picture; then the fresh sea-breeze gives spirit to enjoy it,
+notwithstanding its tropical climate.
+
+Early in the day we moved our anchorage closer in-shore; and then, on
+the invitation of Mr. Pennell, the British consul, we went ashore to
+spend the day with him. We landed at the arsenal, or rather dock-yard,
+where there is nothing of the neatness observable in such establishments
+at home. The first object we saw, however, was a fine 58-gun frigate on
+the stocks, the model of which I hear connoisseurs praise as beautiful.
+There is nothing besides the new ship, and some handsome pieces of old
+brass cannon, worth looking at. Every thing is visibly either suspended
+or on the decline, and there will probably be no improvement, until the
+political state of Brazil is a little more settled. We find things here,
+though not quite so unquiet as at Pernambuco, yet tending the same way.
+
+The street into which we proceeded through the arsenal gate, forms, at
+this place, the breadth of the whole lower town of Bahia, and is,
+without any exception, the filthiest place I ever was in. It is
+extremely narrow, yet all the working artificers bring their benches,
+and tools into the street: in the interstices between them, along the
+walls, are fruit-sellers, venders of sausages, black-puddings, fried
+fish, oil and sugar cakes, negroes plaiting hats or mats, caderas, (a
+kind of sedan chair,) with their bearers, dogs, pigs, and poultry,
+without partition or distinction; and as the gutter runs in the middle
+of the street, every thing is thrown there from the different stalls, as
+well as from the windows; and there the animals live and feed! In this
+street are the warehouses and counting-houses of the merchants, both
+native and foreign. The buildings are high, but neither so handsome nor
+so airy as those of Pernambuco.
+
+It was raining when we landed; therefore, as the streets leading out of
+the filthy lower town do not admit of the use of wheeled carriages, on
+account of the steepness of the ascent, we hired caderas, and found
+them, if not comfortable, at least commodious. They consist of a cane
+arm-chair, with a foot-board and a canopy covered with leather;
+curtains, generally of moreen, with gilt bordering and lined with cotton
+or linen, are contrived to draw round, or open at pleasure; and the
+whole is slung by the top to a single pole, by which two negroes carry
+it at a quick pace upon their shoulders, changing occasionally from
+right to left.[63]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 63: When Frezier travelled, a cotton hammock with a canopy was
+used.]
+
+As we ascended from the street, every step brought us in sight of some
+beautiful scene, generally terminated by the bay and shipping. There is
+something in the landscape here peculiarly agreeable. The verdure, the
+wood, the steep banks, and gently sloping lawns, generally opening to
+the sea or the lake behind the town, have a freshness and amenity that I
+scarcely remember seeing before. We saw but little of the upper city,
+but that little was handsome, in our way to the consul's. His house,
+like those of all the British merchants, is a little way out of town,
+and is in the suburb Vittoria, which occupies the greater part of a long
+narrow ridge extending from the town towards Sant Antonio: between it
+and the town is Fort Pedro, built, I think, originally of mud, by the
+Dutch. It was faced with stone, on the recovery of Bahia from the Dutch,
+about the beginning of the last century. We found the Consul and his
+daughter ready to receive us at their very pleasant garden-house, which
+literally overhangs the bay,--flowers and fruits mingle their sweets
+even down to the water's edge,--while
+
+    "Seaborn gales their gelid wings expand,
+    To winnow fragrance round the smiling land."
+
+Eager to seize the opportunity of walking out after our voyage, we
+accepted Miss Pennell's kind offer, to show us some of the surrounding
+country before dinner, and accompanied her as far as the church
+dedicated to N.S. da Graca. It was the first offering of piety, I
+believe, to Christian worship by a native Brazilian.
+
+When the famous Caramuru was wrecked, together with the Donatory
+Coutinho, on Itaparica, Coutinho was put to death; but, Caramuru, being
+beloved by the natives, was spared, and he returned to his old
+settlement of Villa Velha. His wife, Catherine Paraguaza, who had
+accompanied him to France, saw an apparition in the camp of the Indians,
+and believing it to be a real European female, Caramuru followed in the
+direction his wife pointed out: he discovered, accordingly, in one of
+the huts, an image of N.S. da Graca; and according to the directions his
+wife had received from the vision, built and dedicated the church, and
+bestowed it, and a house by it, on the Benedictines. It was at first
+of mud, but soon after was built of stone.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Thursday, 18th._--We rode out before breakfast, through landscape so
+fine, that I wished for a poet or a painter at every step. Sometimes we
+went through thick wild wood into bushy hollows; then emerged on clear
+lawns, sprinkled with palm trees, through which country-houses, farms,
+and gardens were seen; and from every eminence, the bay, the sea, or the
+lake, formed part of the scene. Here and there the huge gamela tree[64]
+stands like a tower, adorned, besides its own leaves, with numberless
+parasite plants, from the stiff cactus, to the swinging air plant[65];
+and the frequent tower of church and monastery soften and improve the
+features of the country.
+
+[Note 64: The gamela, like the banyan, easily takes root in other
+trees, and its branches meet together in the same manner. It is the tree
+of which the canoes of Brazil are made, and serves besides for troughs
+of various kinds.]
+
+[Note 65: Air-plant or Tillandsia, of which there are several sorts.
+The Tillandsia Lingulata is the largest, and agrees with Jaquin's plate;
+the others are different from those described by him, and are much more
+beautiful.].
+
+Mr. Pennell has most kindly given our young men a general invitation to
+his house; and accordingly, to-day several of them dined with him, and
+we had a party in the evening, when some of the ladies played
+quadrilles, while others danced.
+
+_Friday, 19th._--I accompanied Miss Pennell in a tour of visits to her
+Portuguese friends. As it is not their custom to visit or be visited in
+the forenoon, it was hardly fair to take a stranger to see them.
+However, my curiosity, at least, was gratified. In the first place, the
+houses, for the most part, are disgustingly dirty: the lower story
+usually consists of cells for the slaves, stabling &c.; the staircases
+are narrow and dark; and, at more than one house, we waited in a passage
+while the servants ran to open the doors and windows of the
+sitting-rooms, and to call their mistresses, who were enjoying their
+undress in their own apartments. When they appeared, I could scarcely
+believe that one half were gentlewomen. As they wear neither stay nor
+bodice, the figure becomes almost indecently slovenly, after very early
+youth; and this is the more disgusting, as they are very thinly clad,
+wear no neck-handkerchiefs, and scarcely any sleeves. Then, in this hot
+climate, it is unpleasant to see dark cottons and stuffs, without any
+white linen, near the skin. Hair black, ill combed, and dishevelled, or
+knotted unbecomingly, or still worse, _en papillote_, and the whole
+person having an unwashed appearance. When at any of the houses the
+bustle of opening the cobwebbed windows, and assembling the family was
+over, in two or three instances, the servants had to remove dishes of
+sugar, mandioc, and other provisions, which had been left in the best
+rooms to dry. There is usually a sofa at each end of the room, and to
+the right and left a long file of chairs, which look as if they never
+could be moved out of their place. Between the two sets of seats is a
+space, which, I am told, is often used for dancing; and, in every house,
+I saw either a guitar or piano, and generally both. Prints and pictures,
+the latter the worst daubs I ever saw, decorate the walls pretty
+generally; and there are, besides, crucifixes and other things of the
+kind. Some houses, however, are more neatly arranged; one, I think
+belonging to a captain of the navy, was papered, the floors laid with
+mat, and the tables ornamented with pretty porcelain, Indian and French:
+the lady too was neatly dressed in a French wrapper. Another house
+belonging to one of the judges was also clean, and of a more stately
+appearance than the rest, though the inhabitant was neither richer nor
+of higher rank. Glass chandeliers were suspended from the roof; handsome
+mirrors were intermixed with the prints and pictures. A good deal of
+handsome china was displayed round the room; but the jars, as well as
+the chairs and tables, seemed to form an inseparable part of the walls.
+We were every where invited, after sitting a few moments on the sofa, to
+go to the balconies of the windows and enjoy the view and the breeze, or
+at least amuse ourselves with what was passing in the street. And yet
+they did not lack conversation: the principal topic, however, was praise
+of the beauty of Bahia; dress, children, and diseases, I think, made up
+the rest; and, to say the truth, their manner of talking on the latter
+subject is as disgusting as their dress, that is, in a morning: I am
+told they are different after dinner. They marry very early, and soon
+lose their bloom. I did not see one tolerably pretty woman to-day. But
+then who is there that can bear so total a disguise as filth and
+untidiness spread over a woman?
+
+_Saturday, 20th._--As the charts of this coast hitherto published are
+very incorrect, the captain asked permission from government to sound
+and survey the bay: it is refused on the ground of policy; as if it
+could be policy to keep hidden rocks and shoals, for one's own as well
+as other people's ships.
+
+I walked through the greater part of the town. The lower part extends
+much farther than I could see the day I landed; it contains a few
+churches, one of which, belonging to the monastery of _A concepcao_, is
+very handsome, but the smell within is disgusting; the flooring is laid
+in squares with stone, and within each square there is a panelling of
+wood of about nine feet by six; under each panel is a vault, into which
+the dead are thrown naked, until they reach a certain number, when with
+a little quick-lime thrown in, the wood is fastened down, and then
+another square is opened, and so on in rotation. From that church,
+passing the arsenal gate, we went along the low street, and found it
+widen considerably at three quarters of a mile beyond: there are the
+markets, which seem to be admirably supplied, especially with fish.
+There also is the slave market, a sight I have not yet learned to see
+without shame and indignation[66]: beyond are a set of arcades, where
+goldsmiths, jewellers, and haberdashers display their small wares, and
+there are the best-looking shops; but there is a want of neatness, of
+that art of making things look well, that invites a buyer in England and
+France. One bookseller's shop, where books are extravagantly dear,
+exists in the low town, and one other in the ascent to the upper.
+
+[Note 66: Frezier says of Bahia, "Who would believe it? there are
+shops full of those poor wretches, who are exposed there stark naked and
+bought like cattle, over whom the buyers have the same power; so that
+upon slight disgust they may kill them, almost without fear of
+punishment, or at least treat them as cruelly as they please. I know not
+how such barbarity can be reconciled to the maxims of religion, which
+makes them members of the same body with the whites, when they have been
+baptized, and raises them to the dignity of the sons of God--_all sons
+of the Most High_.
+
+"I here make this comparison, because the Portuguese are Christians who
+make a great outward show of religion."--_Voyage to the South Sea_.]
+
+The upper town is most beautifully situated on the ridge between the sea
+and the fresh water lake, and from its height, and the great slope of
+most of the streets, it is incomparably cleaner than the port. The
+cathedral dedicated to St. Salvador is a handsome building, and stands
+on one side of a square, where the palace, prison, and other public
+buildings are placed. The finest of these, the Jesuits' college, the
+marble columns of which came from Europe ready cut, is now converted
+into a barrack. The most useful is the hospital of Nossa Senhora da
+Misericordia[67], founded by Juan de Matinhos, whose statue in white
+marble, with a wig like Sir Cloudesley Shovel's in Westminster Abbey,
+stands at the first landing-place, and is the ugliest piece of carving I
+ever saw.
+
+[Note 67: Part of the funds for supporting this and other hospitals
+is derived from lotteries. See advertisements in the different Bahia
+newspapers.]
+
+This hospital, besides its use as a refuge for the sick, of whom there
+are generally about 120, maintains 50 young girls of decent parentage,
+to whom a suitable education is given, and a dowry of 200 crowns
+bestowed on them when they marry.[68] The building of the Misericordia
+is a fair specimen of the style of the convents, public buildings, and
+more noble houses,--rather handsome than elegant. It surrounds a large
+area, subdivided into smaller courts; the staircase is of marble, inlaid
+with coloured stucco, and the sides are lined with tiles of porcelain,
+so as to form arabesques, often of very pretty design. This is both a
+cool and a cleanly lining to a wall, particularly for an hospital. The
+principal rooms are also decorated in the same manner; and many of the
+fronts and cupolas of the churches are covered with similar tiles, the
+effect of which is often exceedingly agreeable, when seen among the
+trees and plainer buildings of the city. The chapel belonging to the
+hospital is handsome, a little gaudy, however. The ceiling is
+respectably painted, and was probably the work of an amateur monk of
+the seventeenth century. The treatment of the sick is humane, and they
+are well provided with food and other necessaries; but the medical
+practice, though much improved of late years, is not the most
+enlightened.
+
+[Note 68: Joao de Matos Aguiar, commonly called Joao de Matinhos,
+from his diminutive size, was the founder of this Recolhimento. He
+bequeathed 800,000 crusadoes for the retired women, 400,000 for the
+patients, one to each on leaving the hospital, and 400,000, dowry to 38
+girls every year, at the period of the foundation, 1716.]
+
+There is a great deal of jealousy of foreigners in the present
+government, hence I was not able to enter many of the public buildings.
+The government treasury was one I was desirous to see, but there were
+objections. The treasury here was formerly considered as subordinate to
+that of Rio de Janeiro, and accordingly paid a portion of its receipts
+to bills drawn monthly by the treasurer in the capital, upon this, and
+those of the other provinces. But since the revolution of the 10th of
+February, the provisional government has taken upon itself to refuse
+payment, on the grounds that it is entirely independent of Rio, until
+the pleasure of the cortes at Lisbon shall be known. The revenue is
+derived from direct taxes on land and provisions, excise upon exports
+and imports, and harbour dues. Land is subject to a tax of one-tenth of
+the whole of its produce, and since the revolution, church lands are
+under the same law, and the clergy are paid by the government.
+
+The taxes on provisions are annually farmed out to the highest bidder:
+they are imposed on beef, fresh fish, farinha, and vegetables. Each
+parish has its separate farmer, who pays the amount of his contract into
+the treasury, and then makes the most he can of his dues.
+
+The import and export duties are paid at the custom-house, between which
+and the treasury a monthly settlement takes place.
+
+The port dues for foreign ships are 2000 reals per day, a trifle for the
+light house, and rather heavy charges for entering, clearing, &c.
+Portuguese and Brazilian ships pay no anchorage, but are subject to a
+tonnage.
+
+We ended our perambulation of the town, by going to the opera at night.
+The theatre[69] is placed on the highest part of the city, and the
+platform before it commands the finest view imaginable. It is a handsome
+building, and very commodious, both to spectators and actors. Within it
+is very large and well laid out, but dirty and in great want of fresh
+painting. The actors are very bad as such, and little better as singers;
+but the orchestra is very tolerable. The piece was a very ill-acted
+tragedy, founded on Voltaire's Mahomed. During the representation, the
+Portuguese ladies and gentlemen seemed determined to forget the stage
+altogether, and to laugh, eat sweetmeats, and drink coffee, as if at
+home. When the musicians, however, began to play the overture to the
+ballet, every eye and voice was directed to the stage, and a loud call
+for the national hymn followed, and not till it had been played again
+and again, was the ballet suffered to proceed. During the bustle
+occasioned by this, a captain in the army was arrested and hurried out
+of the pit; some say for picking pockets, others for using intemperate
+language on politics, when the national hymn was called for. Meantime
+one of the midshipmen of our party had his sword stolen, adroitly
+enough, from the corner of the box, yet we perceived nobody enter; so
+that we conclude a gentleman in regimentals in the next box thought it
+would suit him, and so buckled it on to go home with.
+
+[Note 69: It was begun by the Conde da Ponte, and finished by the
+Conde dos Arcos after the arrival of the king in Brazil. It was opened
+May 13th, 1812.]
+
+The police here is in a wretched state. The use of the dagger is so
+frequent, that the secret murders generally average two hundred yearly,
+between the upper and lower towns. To this evil the darkness and
+steepness of the streets mainly contribute, by furnishing almost a
+certainty of escape. The nominal _intendente da policia_ is also the
+supreme judge in criminal cases. No law, however, has as yet determined
+the limits or scope, either of his power, or that of the
+lieutenant-colonel of police, who calls upon a few soldiers from any of
+the garrisons whenever he has to act, and who appoints military patroles
+also from among the soldiers on duty. It often happens that persons
+accused before this formidable officer are seized and imprisoned for
+years, without ever being brought to a trial; a malicious information,
+whether true or false, subjects a man's private house to be broken open
+by the colonel and his gang; and if the master escapes imprisonment it
+is well, though the house scarcely ever escapes pillage. In cases of
+riot and quarrels in the street, the colonel generally orders the
+soldiers to fall on with canes, and beat people into their senses. Such
+being the state of the police, it is, perhaps, more wonderful that
+murders are so few, than that they are so many. Where there is little or
+no public justice, private revenge will take its place.
+
+_Sunday, 21st._--We went to the English chapel, and were well pleased
+with the decent manner in which the service was performed. The Rev.
+Robert Synge is chaplain, a man of cheerful convivial manners, yet
+exceedingly attentive both as chaplain, and as guardian of his poorer
+countrymen. The chapel and clergymen are supported by the contribution
+fund, as are also the hospital for English sailors and others, and its
+surgeon, Mr. Dundas: both the hospital and chapel are under the same
+roof. I was surprised, perhaps unreasonably, to hear Mr. Synge pray for
+"Don John of Portugal, Sovereign of these realms, by whose gracious
+permission we are enabled to meet and worship God according to our
+conscience," or words to that effect. We were not so polite in Rome, I
+remember, as to pray for His Holiness, though it would have been but
+reasonable.
+
+Returning from chapel, we saw great part of the troops drawn up in
+inspecting order, on the little green between _Buenos Ayres_ (the name
+of the hospital) and Fort Pedro. Every Portuguese is, it seems, by birth
+a soldier; and nothing exempts a man from military duty, but his holding
+a place under government. There are six corps of militia in the city of
+Bahia: 1st, one company of mounted gentlemen, forming the government
+guard of honour; 2d, one squadron of flying artillery; 3d and 4th, two
+regiments of whites, almost all tradespeople; 5th, one regiment of
+mulatoes; and 6th, one of free blacks, amounting altogether to 4000 men,
+well armed and equipped; but the black regiment is unquestionably the
+best trained, and most serviceable, as a light infantry corps. The
+regiments of country militia, as those of Cachoeira, Piraja, &c. are much
+stronger, and with those of the city, amount to about 15,000 men. The
+officers are chosen from among the most respectable families, and with
+the exception of the majors and adjutants, who are of the line, receive
+no pay.
+
+The troops of the capital are generally reviewed or inspected on
+Sundays, and sometimes the regular Portuguese are reviewed with them.
+There is always something gay and inspiriting in martial sounds and
+martial sights; and the fine weather, gay landscape, and above all, the
+idea that in a day or two, nay, this very night, these same soldiers
+might be called into action, did not render the scene less interesting.
+The native artillery have long garrisoned some of the forts. It appears
+that the royal troops of Portugal have claimed some superiority, and
+above all, have demanded their guns and ammunition; and so there is a
+dispute, in which the royalists and independents take part, and every
+day hostilities are expected; but both parties seem so willing to be
+peaceable, that I trust the matter will end without bloodshed.
+
+_Monday, 22d._--This evening there was a large party, both Portuguese
+and English, at the consul's. In the well-dressed women I saw to-night,
+I had great difficulty in recognising the slatterns of the other
+morning. The senhoras were all dressed after the French fashion: corset,
+fichu, garniture, all was proper, and even elegant, and there was a
+great display of jewels. Our English ladies, though quite of the second
+rate of even colonial gentility, however, bore away the prize of beauty
+and grace; for after all, the clothes, however elegant, that are not
+worn habitually, can only embarrass and cramp the native movements; and,
+as Mademoiselle Clairon remarks, "she who would _act_ a gentlewoman in
+public, must _be_ one in private life."
+
+The Portuguese men have all a mean look; none appear to have any
+education beyond counting-house forms, and their whole time is, I
+believe, spent between trade and gambling: in the latter, the ladies
+partake largely after they are married. Before that happy period, when
+there is no evening dance, they surround the card tables, and with eager
+eyes follow the game, and long for the time when they too may mingle in
+it. I scarcely wonder at this propensity. Without education, and
+consequently without the resources of mind, and in a climate where
+exercise out of doors is all but impossible, a stimulus must be had; and
+gambling, from the sage to the savage, has always been resorted to, to
+quicken the current of life. On the present occasion, we feared the
+young people would have been disappointed of their dance, because the
+fiddlers, after waiting some time, went away, as they alleged, because
+they had not their tea early enough; however, some of the ladies
+volunteered to play the piano, and the ball lasted till past midnight.
+
+_Tuesday, 23d._--I rode with Mr. Dance and Mr. Ricken along the banks of
+the lake, decidedly the most beautiful scenery in this beautiful
+country; and then through wild groves, where all the splendours of
+Brazilian animal and vegetable life were displayed. The gaudy plumage of
+the birds, the brilliant hues of the insects, the size, and shape, and
+colour, and fragrance, of the flowers and shrubs, seen mostly for the
+first time, enchanted us, and rendered our little journey to the great
+pepper gardens, whither we were going, delightful. Every hedge is at
+this season gay with coffee blossom, but it is too early in the year for
+the pepper or the cotton to be in beauty. It is not many years since
+Francisco da Cunha and Menezes sent the pepper plant from Goa for these
+gardens, which were afterwards enlarged by him, when he became governor
+of Bahia. Plants were sent from hence to Pernambuco, which have
+succeeded in the botanical garden.
+
+From the pepper gardens we rode on to a convent at the farther extremity
+of the town, and overlooking both the bays, above and below the
+peninsula of Bon fin, or N.S. da Monserrat. It is called the Soledad,
+and the nuns are famous for their delicate sweetmeats, and for the
+manufacture of artificial flowers, formed of the feathers of the
+many-coloured birds of their country. I admired the white water-lily
+most, though the pomegranate flower, the carnation, and the rose are
+imitated with the greatest exactness. The price of all these things is
+exorbitant; but the convents having lost much of their property since
+the revolution, the nuns are fain to make up by the produce of this
+petty industry, for the privations imposed on them by the reduction of
+their rents.
+
+_Wednesday, October 24th._--Mr. Pennell, his daughter, and a few other
+friends, joined us in an expedition to Itaparica[70], a large island
+that forms the western side of the Bay of All Saints. A shoal runs off
+from it a long way to sea, and there are reefs of coral rocks on
+different parts of its coast. The distance from the city to the nearest
+landing place on the island is five miles and a half, which our boats'
+crews rowed in less than two hours. We put in between two ledges of
+rock, to a little jetty, belonging to the fazenda or factory of Aseoli,
+or Filisberti, both of whom were partners in Jerome Buonaparte's
+commercial establishment here. There is no town on Itaparica; but there
+is a villa, or village, with a fort on the Punto de Itaparica, which
+commands the passage between it and the main land, and also the mouth of
+the river, on which stands Nazareth da Farinha, so called from the
+abundance of that article which it produces. There are also a great many
+fazendas, which, with their establishment of slaves and cattle, may be
+considered as so many hamlets. Each sugar farm, or ingenho, as the
+fazendas are oftener called here, has its little community of slaves
+around it; and in their huts something like the blessings of freedom are
+enjoyed, in the family ties and charities they are not forbidden to
+enjoy. I went into several of the huts, and found them cleaner and more
+comfortable than I expected; each contains four or five rooms, and each
+room appeared to hold a family. These out-of-door slaves, belonging to
+the great ingenhos, in general are better off than the slaves of masters
+whose condition is nearer to their own, because, "The more the master is
+removed from us, in place and rank, the greater the liberty we enjoy;
+the less our actions are inspected and controuled; and the fainter that
+cruel comparison becomes betwixt our own subjection, and the freedom, or
+even dominion of another." But, at best, the comforts of slaves must be
+precarious. Here it is not uncommon to give a slave his freedom, when he
+is too old or too infirm to work; that is, to turn him out of doors to
+beg or starve. A few days ago, as a party of gentlemen were returning
+from a _pic nic_, they found a poor negro woman lying in a dying state,
+by the side of the road. The English gentlemen applied to their
+Portuguese companions to speak to her, and comfort her, as thinking she
+would understand them better; but they said, "Oh, 'tis only a black: let
+us ride on," and so they did without further notice. The poor creature,
+who was a dismissed slave, was carried to the English hospital, where
+she died in two days. Her diseases were age and hunger.[71] The slaves I
+saw here working in the distillery, appear thin, and I should say
+over-worked; but, I am told, that it is only in the distilling months
+that they appear so, and that at other seasons they are as fat and
+cheerful as those in the city, which is saying a great deal. They have a
+little church and burying-ground here, and as they see their little lot
+the lot of all, are more contented than I thought a slave could be.
+
+[Note 70: _Itapa_ is the Indian name: the Portuguese termination,
+_Rica_, indicates the fertility of the island. On this island Francesco
+Pereira Coutinho, the first donatory, was killed by the savages. He had
+founded his city near the watering place called Villa Velha, by what is
+now the fort of Gamboa, and not far from the habitation of the
+adventurer Caramuru. The first Christian settlement formed here was in
+1561, when the Jesuits founded an Aldea, and collected and humanised
+some of the natives.]
+
+[Note 71: "The custom of exposing old, useless, or sick slaves, in
+an island of the Tyber, there to starve, seems to have been pretty
+common in Rome; and whoever recovered, after being so exposed, had his
+liberty given him, by an edict of the Emperor Claudius; where it was
+likewise forbid to _kill any slave, merely for old age or
+sickness_."--"We may imagine what others would practise, when it was the
+professed maxim of the elder Cato, to sell his superannuated slaves for
+any price, rather than maintain a useless burden."--_Discourses of the
+Populousness of Ancient Nations_.]
+
+Sugar is the principal product of Itaparica; but the greater part of the
+poultry, vegetables, and fruit, consumed in Bahia, are also from the
+island, and lime is made here in considerable quantities from the
+madrepores and corals found on the beach. This island used to furnish
+the neighbourhood with horses. When the English fleet and army stopped
+here, on the way to the Cape of Good Hope, the horses for the cavalry
+regiments were procured here. However, there is nothing remarkable in
+Itaparica but its fertility; the landscape is the same in character with
+that of Bahia, though in humbler style; but it is fresh and green, and
+pleasing. After dining in a palm-grove, and walking about till we were
+tired, we re-embarked to return; but the tide was unfavourable; we
+drifted among the rocks, where Coutinho, the first founder of the colony
+of Bahia, was wrecked and afterwards murdered by the natives, and we
+were in consequence four hours in returning home.
+
+26th, 27th, 28th, passed in pleasant enough intercourse with our
+countrymen, though neither of us were well enough to go much on shore,
+therefore our friends came to us. There are eighteen English mercantile
+houses established at Bahia, two French, and two German. The English
+trade is principally carried on with Liverpool, which supplies
+manufactured goods and salt, in exchange for sugars, rums, tobaccos,
+cottons, very little coffee, and molasses. Lately, sugars have been
+shipped, on English account, for Hamburgh to a great extent, and I
+believe part of the returns are in German or Prussian woollen-cloths.
+The province of Bahia, by its neglect of manufactures, is quite
+dependent on commerce. But the distance from the sea of the province of
+Minas Geraes, has induced the inhabitants to weave not only enough
+coarse cotton cloths for home consumption, but even to become an article
+of trade with the other captaincies.
+
+In the province of Esperitu Santo, cotton sail-cloth is made; but the
+chief trade of this place is _slaving_. This year no less than
+seventy-six slave-ships have sailed, without reckoning the smugglers in
+that line.
+
+_Sunday, 28th._--Mr. Pennell had kindly fixed to-day for giving us a
+party in the country, and accordingly some of our young people were to
+go and assist in putting up tents, &c.; but a miscalculation of tide and
+time, and a mistake as to the practicability of landing on part of the
+beach beyond the light-house, occasioned a variety of adventures and
+accidents, without which I have always heard no fete champetre could be
+perfect. However that may be, our party was a pleasant one. Instead of
+the tents, we made use of a country-house called the Roca, where beauty
+of situation, and neatness in itself and garden, made up for whatever we
+might have thought romantic in the tents, had they been erected. It is
+the fashion to pave the courts of the country-houses here with dark
+pebbles, and to form in the pavement a sort of mosaic with milk-white
+shells. The gardens are laid out in alleys, something in the oriental
+taste. The millions of ants, which often in the course of a single night
+leave the best-clothed orange-tree bare both of leaves and flowers,
+render it necessary to surround each tree with a little stucco wall, or
+rather canal, in which there is water, till they are strong enough to
+recover if attacked by the ants. In the garden at Roca, every shrub of
+value, either for fruit or beauty, was so fenced, and there were seats,
+and water channels, and porcelain flower-pots, that made me almost think
+myself in the East. But there is a newness in every thing here, a want
+of interest on account of what has been, that is most sensibly felt. At
+most, we can only go back to the naked savage who devoured his prisoner,
+and adorned himself with bones and feathers here. In the East,
+imagination is at liberty to expatiate on past grandeur, wisdom, and
+politeness. Monuments of art and of science meet us at every step:
+_here_, every thing, nature herself, wears an air of newness, and the
+Europeans, so evidently foreign to the climate, and their African
+slaves, repugnant to every wholesome feeling, show too plainly that they
+are intruders, ever to be in harmony with the scene. However, Roca is
+beautiful, and all those grave thoughts did not prevent us from
+delighting in the fair prospect of
+
+    "Hill and valley, fountain and fresh shade;"
+
+nor enjoying the scent of oleander, jasmine, tuberose, and rose,
+although they are adopted, not native children of the soil.
+
+Of the Portuguese society here I know so very little, that it would be
+presumptuous to give an opinion of it. I have met with two or three
+well-informed men of the world, and some lively conversable women; but
+none of either sex that at all reminded me of the well-educated men and
+women of Europe. Here the state of general education is so low, that
+more than common talent and desire of knowledge is requisite to attain
+any; therefore the clever men are acute, and sometimes a little vain,
+feeling themselves so much above their fellow-citizens, and the portion
+of book-learning is small. Of those who read on political subjects, most
+are disciples of Voltaire, and they outgo his doctrines on politics, and
+equal his indecency as to religion; hence to sober people who have seen
+through the European revolutions, their discourses are sometimes
+disgusting. The Portuguese seldom dine with each other; when they do, it
+is on some great occasion, to justify a splendid feast: they meet every
+evening either at the play, or in private houses, and in the last case
+gamble very deeply. The English society is just such as one may expect.
+A few merchants, not of the first order, whose thoughts are engrossed by
+sugars and cottons, to the utter exclusion of all public; matters that
+do not bear directly on their private trade, and of all matters of
+general science or information. Not one knew the name of the plants
+around his own door; not one is acquainted with the country ten miles
+beyond St. Salvador's; not one could tell me even the situation of the
+fine red clay, of which the only manufacture, pottery, here is made: in
+short, I was completely out of patience with these incurious
+money-makers. I was perhaps unjust to my countrymen: I dare say there
+are many who _could_ have told me these things, but I am sure none _did_
+tell me, and equally sure that I asked information of all I met with.
+But a woman is not, I believe, considered as privileged to know any
+thing by these commercial personages. The English are, however,
+hospitable and sociable among each other. They often dine together: the
+ladies love music and dancing, and some of the men gamble as much as the
+Portuguese. Upon the whole, society is at a low, very low scale here
+among the English. Good eating and good drinking they contrive, to have,
+for the flesh, fish, and fowl are good; fruits and vegetables various
+and excellent, and bread of the finest. Their slaves, for the English
+are all served by slaves, indeed, eat a sort of porridge of mandioc meal
+with small squares of jerked beef stirred into it, or, as their greatest
+luxury, stewed caravansas; and this is likewise the principal food of
+the lower classes even of the free inhabitants. In the fruit season,
+pumpkins, jackfruit, cocoa-nut, and melons, nearly take place of the
+mandioc. The huts of the poor are formed of upright poles, with branches
+of trees wattled between, and covered and lined either with cocoa-leaf
+mats, or clay; the roofs are also thatched. The better houses are built
+either of a fine blue stone, quarried on the beach of Victoria, or of
+brick. They are all white-washed: where the floor is not laid with wood,
+a fine red brick, six to nine inches square, and three in thickness, is
+used, and they are roofed with round red tiles. The houses are generally
+of one story high, with a room or two above by way of a look-out house.
+Under the house is generally a sort of cellar, in which the slaves live;
+and really I have sometimes wondered that human beings could exist in
+such.
+
+_Friday, 2d November._--Several of our people having yielded to the
+temptations of some worthless persons in the town, who induce sailors to
+desert in order that they themselves may profit by the premium given for
+the discovery of deserters, and having consequently swam on shore, the
+frigate has been moved up the harbour as far as Bom Fim, and it is
+intended to take her up still higher. I am glad of the opportunity of
+seeing more of this beautiful bay, and shall endeavour to land on the
+Ilha do Medo, or the point of Itaparica, where the first adventurers
+from Europe underwent hardship that appear hardly credible in our modern
+days. We also wish to examine the harbour within the funil or passage
+between the two islands, and into which the river or creek of Nazareth,
+which supplies Bahia with great part of the mandioc flour consumed
+there, runs.
+
+_Saturday, 3d November._--Our plan of proceeding farther up the harbour
+is suspended for the present. The disputes between the European
+Portuguese and the Brazilians in the city, seem to be about to come to a
+crisis. Early this morning, we learned that troops were assembling from
+all quarters, and that therefore it was advisable, for the protection of
+the British property and the persons of the merchants, that the ship
+should return to her station opposite to the town. The first provisional
+junta has lost several of its members, two of them being gone as
+delegates to Lisbon, and others being absent on account of ill health or
+disgust. The party opposing this junta talk loudly of independence, and
+wish at least one-half of the members of the provisional government to
+be native Brazilians. They also complain bitterly, that instead of
+redressing the evils they before endured, the junta has increased them
+by several arbitrary acts; and assert that one of the members who has a
+great grazing estate, has procured a monopoly, by which no man can
+supply the market with beef without his permission, so that the city is
+ill supplied. Such a ground of complaint will always excite popular
+indignation, and it appears now to be at its height. There has already
+been some skirmishing, in which, however, I hear there have been only
+three men killed. The Brazilian artillery occupies Fort San Pedro; the
+governor, and the wreck of the junta, have the town and the palace. The
+governor, indeed, has arrested several, I think seventeen persons, in an
+arbitrary manner; among these, two of my acquaintance, Colonel
+Salvador[72] and Mr. Soares, and have put them, some on board the Don
+Pedro, some on board transports in the bay, for the purpose of
+transporting them to Lisbon. Some of these persons are not permitted to
+have any communication with their families; others, more favoured, are
+allowed to carry them with them. These are not the means to conciliate.
+We have sent on shore to offer shelter to the ladies, and Captain Graham
+has agreed upon certain signals with the consul, in case of increased
+danger to his family.
+
+[Note 72: Colonel Salvador, though born in Portugal, has all his
+property and connections in Brazil; he served with credit in the
+peninsula. Mr. Soares, a Brazilian, had been long in England.]
+
+_Sunday, November 4th._--On looking out at daylight this morning, we saw
+artillery planted, and troops drawn up on the platform opposite to the
+opera house. I went on shore to see if Miss Pennell, her sister, or any
+of our other friends would come on board; but they naturally prefer
+staying to the last with their fathers and husbands. Notwithstanding the
+warlike movements of these last two days, it appears most likely that
+the chiefs of the opposite parties will agree to await the decision of
+the cortes at Lisbon, with respect to their grievances, and at least a
+temporary peace will succeed to this little disturbance.
+
+It appears, however, next to impossible that things should remain as
+they are. The extreme inconvenience of having the supreme courts of
+justice so far distant as Lisbon must be more and more felt as the
+country increases in population and riches. The deputies to the cortes
+are too far removed from their constituents to be guided in their
+deliberations or votes by them; and the establishment of so many juntas
+of government, each only accountable to the cortes, must be a cause of
+internal disorder, if not of civil war, at no distant time.
+
+_Monday, 5th._--A day of heavy tropical rain, which has forced both
+parties on shore to house their guns, and to desist for the present from
+all farther hostility. The governor, however, continues his arbitrary
+arrestations. It is curious how ancient authority awes men; for surely
+it is the accustomed obedience to the name of the king, and the dread of
+the name of rebellion, that prevents the Brazilians, armed as they are,
+from resisting these things.
+
+_Tuesday, November 6th._--The Morgiana, Captain Finlaison, came in from
+Rio de Janeiro. She belongs to the African station, and came to Brazil
+about some prize business connected with the slave trade. Captain
+Finlaison tells me tales that make my blood run cold, of horrors
+committed in the French slave ships especially. Of young negresses,
+headed up in casks and thrown overboard, when the ships are chased. Of
+others, stowed in boxes when a ship was searched; with a bare chance of
+surviving their confinement. But where the trade is once admitted, no
+wonder the heart becomes callous to the individual sufferings of the
+slaves. The other day I took up some old Bahia newspapers, numbers of
+the Idade d'Ouro, and I find in the list of ships entered during three
+months of this year,
+
+                                                     Alive.    Dead.
+
+1 slave ship from Moyanbique, 25th March, with        313       180
+
+1 do.           6th March                             378        61
+
+1 do.          30th May                               293        10
+
+1 do.          29th June from Molendo,                357       102
+
+1 do.          26th June                              233        21
+                                                     ____       ___
+                                                     1574       374
+                                                     ____       ___
+
+So that of the cargoes of these five ships reckoned thus accidentally,
+more than one in five had died on the passage!
+
+It seems the English ships of war on the African coast are allowed to
+hire free blacks to make up their complements when deficient. There are
+several now onboard the Morgiana, two of whom are petty officers, and
+they are found most useful hands. They are paid and victualled like our
+own seamen.[73]
+
+[Note 73: The negroes of the _Cru_ nation come to Sierra Leone from
+a great distance, and hire themselves out for any kind of labour, for
+six, eight, or ten months, sometimes for a year or two. They have then
+earned enough to go home and live like idle gentlemen, for at least
+twice that time, and then return to work. When their engagements on
+board men of war are fulfilled, they receive regular discharges and
+certificates.]
+
+_Thursday, November 8._--We went on board Morgiana to call on Mrs.
+Macgregor, a lively intelligent Spaniard, who with her husband, Colonel
+Macgregor, is a passenger. She joined me in visits on shore, where the
+only news is, that the governor continues to arrest all persons
+suspected of favouring independence.
+
+_November 9._--The Brazilians who occupy the forts of San Pedro and
+Santa Maria, had threatened to fire on the Don Pedro, if she attempted
+to get under weigh with the state prisoners on board. Nevertheless
+during the night she bent her sails, and sailed early this morning,
+carrying, it is said, twenty-eight gentlemen, who have been taken up
+without any ostensible reason. They are understood to have spoken in
+favour of the independence of Brazil. Several of our officers went on
+shore to dine with the gentlemen of the English club, who meet once a
+month, to eat a very good dinner, and drink an immoderate quantity of
+wine for the honour of their country.
+
+_Tuesday, November 13._--We have had, for ten days past, some of the
+heaviest showers I remember to have seen, and in going to and from the
+ship, we have generally been wet through; nevertheless some of our
+friends ventured on board to-day to dine with us, among the rest Colonel
+and Mrs. Macgregor; they were a little late, owing to a skirmish between
+the Portuguese and Brazilians, that occurred close to their house, just
+as they were setting off. Apparently it had not been premeditated, for
+the parties were fighting with sticks and stones, as well as swords and
+fire-arms. The combatants would not allow any officer in Portuguese
+regimentals to pass, so that Colonel Macgregor was obliged to go back
+and change his dress before he could come. All this appears to proceed
+more from a want of police than any other cause.
+
+_16th_.--Several of our young people and I myself have begun to feel the
+bad effects of exposing ourselves too much to the sun and the rain.
+Yesterday I was so unwell as to put on a blister for cough and pain in
+my side, and several of the others have slight degrees of fever. But
+generally speaking, the ship's company has been remarkably healthy.
+
+_Friday, 16th_.--Captain Graham taken suddenly and alarmingly ill.
+Towards evening he became better, and was able to attend to a most
+painful business. Last night a man belonging to the Morgiana was killed,
+and the corporal of marines belonging to the ship severely wounded, on
+shore. It appears that neither of these men had so much as seen the
+murderer before. He had been drinking in the inner room of a venda with
+some sailors, and having quarrelled with one of them, he fancied the
+rest were going to seize him, when he drew his knife to intimidate them,
+and rushed furiously out of the room. The young man who was killed was
+standing at the outer door, waiting for one of his companions who was
+within, and the murderer seeing him there, imagined he also wished to
+stop him, and therefore stabbed him to the heart. Our corporal, who was
+passing by, saw the deed, and of course attempted to seize him, and in
+the attempt received a severe wound. It is said, I know not with what
+truth, that Captain Finlaison is so hated here, on account of his
+activity against the slave trade, that none of his people are safe, and
+the death of the unfortunate man is attributed to that cause; but it
+appears to have been the result of a drunken quarrel. The town, however,
+appears to be in a sad disorderly state: besides our two men, a
+Brazilian officer was dangerously wounded in the dark, and three
+Brazilian soldiers and their corporal were found murdered last night.
+Captain Graham had sent one of his officers to act for him on the
+occasion, and to apply through the British consul to the police
+magistrate, Francisco Jose Perreira, for redress.[74] He himself is
+sensibly worse since he exerted himself to attend to this painful
+business.
+
+[Note 74: Mr. Pennell accordingly wrote to Mr. Perreira, stating the
+circumstance and also that the prisoner was taken. The magistrate
+assured him that he had laid his communication before the provisional
+government, and that the punishment directed by law should be inflicted,
+and the greatest sorrow was expressed by the junta for the accident.
+Colonel Madera, commanding the active military police, also assured
+Mr.---- the lieutenant of the Doris, on his honour, that the assassin
+should be brought to trial. But it was not done while we remained in
+Brazil, and it is probable not at all. The political state of Bahia
+shortly afterwards would scarcely leave leisure for such a matter.]
+
+The disorders of this climate are sadly enfeebling; they attack both
+mind and body, producing a painful sensitiveness to the slightest
+incident.
+
+_November 18th._--Our invalids have been sadly disturbed by the rockets
+which have been fired, ever since sunrise, from the church of our Lady
+of Conception[75], whose feast is on the 8th of December. But the three
+Sundays previous to it the church and convent are adorned, sermons are
+preached, rockets are fired, contributions are made, and the shipping in
+the harbour fire salooes at sunrise, at noon, and at sunset. The annual
+expense of rockets, and other fireworks, is enormous. Those used in
+Brazil all come from the East Indies and China. Sometimes, when
+manufactured goods are unsaleable here, the merchant ships them on board
+a Portuguese East Indiaman, and gets in return fireworks, which never
+fail to pay well. I have seen a set of cut-glass sent to Calcutta for
+the purpose, or a girandole, too handsome for Brazilian purchasers.
+
+[Note 75: One of the two parishes of the lower town.]
+
+Yesterday the ship's pinnace, which had been absent five days with the
+master, my cousin Glennie, and young Grey, returned. They had gone to
+examine the river of Cachoeira, and came back highly delighted with
+their trip, though they had some very bad weather; however, with
+tarpaulines, cloaks, and a blanket or two, which I insisted on their
+taking, they managed so well as to have returned in good health.
+
+Cachoeira, about fifty miles from Bahia, is a good town, where there is
+one English merchant resident. It is populous[76] and busy; for it is
+the place where the produce, chiefly cotton and tobacco, of a very
+considerable district, is collected, in order to be shipped for Bahia.
+It is divided into two unequal parts, by the river Paraguazu. Its parish
+church is dedicated to our Lady of the Rosary. It has two convents, four
+chapels, an hospital, a fountain, and three stone bridges over the small
+rivers Pitanga and Caquende, on which there are very extensive
+sugar-works. There are wharfs on both sides of the river. The streets
+are well paved, and the houses built of stone, and tiled: the country is
+flat, but agreeable. The river is not navigable more than two miles
+above the town; it there narrows and becomes interrupted by rocks and
+rapids, and there is a wooden bridge across it. About five miles from
+Cachoeira, there is an insulated conical hill, called that of
+Conception, whence there often proceed noises like explosions. These
+noises are considered in this country as indicative of the existence of
+metals. Near this place a piece of native copper was found, weighing
+upwards of fifty-two arobas. It is now in the museum of Lisbon.
+
+[Note 76: In 1804 it contained 1088 hearths.]
+
+Our exploring party landed on several of the islands, on their way up
+the river, and were every where received with great hospitality, and
+delighted with the beauty and fertility of the country.
+
+_22d._--At length all the invalids, excepting myself, are better; but,
+with another blister on, I can do little but write, or look from the
+cabin windows; and when I do look, I am sure to see something
+disagreeable. This very moment, there is a slave ship discharging her
+cargo, and the slaves are singing as they go ashore. They have left the
+ship, and they see they will be on the dry land; and so, at the command
+of their keeper, they are singing one of their country songs, in a
+strange land. Poor wretches! could they foresee the slave-market, and
+the separations of friends and relations that will take place there, and
+the march up the country, and the labour of the mines, and the
+sugar-works, their singing would be a wailing cry. But that "blindness
+to the future kindly given," allows them a few hours of sad enjoyment.
+This is the principal slave port in Brazil; and the negroes appear to me
+to be of a finer, stronger race, than any I have ever seen. One of the
+provisional junta of government is the greatest slave merchant here.
+Yet, I am happy to say, the Bahia press has lately actually printed a
+pamphlet against the slave trade. Within the last year, seventy-six
+ships have sailed from this port for the coast of Africa; and it is well
+known that many of them will slave to the northward of the line, in
+spite of all treaties to the contrary: but the system of false papers is
+so cunningly and generally carried on, that detection is far from easy;
+and the difficulties that lie in the way of condemning any slave ship,
+render it a matter of hazard to detain them. An owner, however, is well
+satisfied, if one cargo in three arrives safe; and eight or nine
+successful voyages make a fortune. Many Brazilian Portuguese have no
+occupation whatever: they lay out a sum of money in slaves; which slaves
+are ordered out every day, and must bring in a certain sum each night;
+and these are the boatmen, chairmen, porters, and weavers of mats and
+hats that are to be hired in the streets and markets, and who thus
+support their masters.
+
+_24th._--Yesterday the Morgiana sailed for Pernambuco, whence she will
+return to the coast of Africa. To-day the Antigone French frigate,
+commanded by Captain Villeneuve, nephew to the admiral of that name who
+was at Trafalgar, came in. Whenever France and England are not at war,
+the French and English certainly seek each other, and like each other
+more than any other two nations: and yet they seem like two great heads
+of parties, and the other nations take the French and English sides, as
+if there were no cause of opposition but theirs. Others may account for
+the fact, I am satisfied that it is so; and that whenever we meet a
+Frenchman in time of peace, in a distant country, it is something akin
+to the pleasure of seeing a countryman; and it is particularly the case
+with French naval men. Frequent intercourse of any kind, even that of
+war, begets a similarity of habits, manners, and ideas; so I suppose we
+have grown alike by fighting, and are all the more likely to fight
+again.
+
+There is a report, but I believe not well founded, that placards are
+stuck up about the city threatening that all Europeans, especially
+Portuguese, who do not leave the place before the 24th of December,
+shall be massacred. I listen to these things, because reports, even when
+false, indicate something of the spirit of the times.
+
+_December 8th._--This place is now so quiet that the merchants feel
+quite safe, and therefore we are leaving Bahia. I have taken leave of
+many hospitable persons who have shown us much attention; but my health
+is so indifferent, that but for the sake of that civility which I felt
+due to them, I should not have gone ashore again: however, it is all
+done, and we are in the act of getting under weigh.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_9th._--As we sailed out of the bay, we amused ourselves with
+conjecturing the possible situation of Robinson Crusoe's plantation in
+the bay of All Saints. Those who had been at Cachoeira chose that it
+should be in that direction; while such as had been confined to the
+neighbourhood of the city pitched on different sitios, all or any of
+which might have answered the purpose. There is a charm in Defoe's works
+that one hardly finds, excepting in the Pilgrim's Progress. The language
+is so homely, that one is not aware of the poetical cast of the
+thoughts; and both together form such a reality, that the parable and
+the romance alike remain fixed on the mind like truth. And what is
+truth? Surely not the mere outward acts of vulgar life; but rather the
+moral and intellectual perceptions by which our judgment, and actions,
+and motives, are directed. Then, are the wanderings of Christiana and
+Mercy, and the sufferings of the shipwrecked mariner, true in the right
+sense of the word truth? True as the lofty creations of Milton, and the
+embodied visions of Michael Angelo; because they have their basis and
+their home in the heart, and soul, and understanding of man.
+
+But we are once more upon the ocean, and our young people are again
+observing the stars, and measuring the distances of the planets. I
+grieve that one of the most promising of them is now an inmate in my
+cabin, in a very delicate state of health.
+
+_12th._--Yesterday we found soundings, which indicated the neighbourhood
+of the Abrolhos, and lay-to all night, that we might ascertain the exact
+position of those dangerous shoals; which, at the distance of three
+leagues, bearing N. W. by W., appeared like one long ragged island to
+the westward, and two smaller very low to the east.
+
+The banks extend very far out to the eastward. There is a deep passage
+between them and the mainland. With a little attention, a most
+profitable fishery might be established here.
+
+_Rio de Janeiro, Saturday, December 15th, 1821_.--Nothing that I have
+ever seen is comparable in beauty to this bay. Naples, the Firth of
+Forth, Bombay harbour, and Trincomalee, each of which I thought perfect
+in their beauty, all must yield to this, which surpasses each in its
+different way. Lofty mountains, rocks of clustered columns, luxuriant
+wood, bright flowery islands, green banks, all mixed with white
+buildings; each little eminence crowned with its church or fort; ships
+at anchor or in motion; and innumerable boats flitting about in such a
+delicious climate,--combine to render Rio de Janeiro the most enchanting
+scene that imagination can conceive. We anchored first close to a small
+island, called Villegagnon, about two miles from the entrance of the
+harbour. That island, however small, was the site of the first colony
+founded by the Frenchman Villegagnon, under the patronage of Coligny,
+whom he betrayed. The admiral had intended it as a refuge for the
+persecuted Hugonots; but when Villegagnon had, by his means, formed the
+settlement, he began to persecute them also: the colony fell into decay,
+and became an easy conquest to Mem de Sa, the Portuguese captain-general
+of Brazil.[77]
+
+[Note 77: See Introduction, p. 15.]
+
+We moved from this station to one more commodious nearer the town, and
+higher up the harbour, towards the afternoon, which soon became so
+rainy, that I gave up all hopes of getting ashore. I was really
+disappointed to find that my excellent friend, the Hon. Capt. S. had
+left the station with his frigate before we arrived; I had, however, the
+pleasure of receiving a kind letter from him, and he had left me a copy
+of the great Spanish dictionary. Nobody that has always lived at home,
+can tell the value of a kindness like this in a foreign land.
+
+_Sunday, 16th_.--I had the pleasure of seeing on board Mr. W. May, who
+has long been a resident in Brazil, and with whom I had spent many happy
+hours in early life. The pleasure such meetings give is of the purest
+and wholesomest nature. It quiets the passions by its own tranquillity;
+and, in recalling all the innocent and amiable feelings of youth, makes
+us almost forget those harsher emotions which intercourse with the
+world, and the operation of interest, passion, or suffering have raised.
+
+_Monday, 17th_.--By the assistance of some friends ashore, we have
+procured a comfortable house in one of the suburbs of Rio, called the
+Catete, from the name of a little river which runs through it into the
+sea. To this house I have brought my poor suffering midshipman,
+Langford; and trust that free air, moderate exercise, and a milk diet,
+will restore him. We have been visited by several persons, who all
+appear hospitable and kind, particularly the acting consul-general, Col.
+Cunningham, and his lady.
+
+_December 18th_.--I have begun house-keeping on shore. We find
+vegetables and poultry very good, but not cheap; fruit is very good and
+cheap; butcher's meat cheap, but very bad: there is a monopolist
+butcher, and no person may even kill an animal for his own use without
+permission paid for from that person; consequently, as there is no
+competition, he supplies the market as he pleases.[78] The beef is so
+bad, that it can hardly be used even for soup meat, three days out of
+four; and that supplied to the ships is at least as bad: mutton is
+scarce and bad: pork very good and fine; it is fed principally on
+mandioc and maize, near the town; that from a distance has the advantage
+of sugar cane. Fish is not so plentiful as it ought to be, considering
+the abundance that there is on the whole coast, but it is extremely
+good; oysters, prawns, and crabs are as good as in any part of the
+world. The wheaten bread used in Rio is chiefly made of American flour,
+and is, generally speaking, exceedingly good. Neither the captaincy of
+Rio, nor those to the north, produce wheat; but in the high lands of St.
+Paul's, and the Minas Geraes, and in the southern provinces, a good deal
+is cultivated, and with great success. The great article of food here is
+the mandioc meal, or farinha; it is made into thin broad cakes as a
+delicacy, but the usual mode of eating it is dry: when at the tables of
+the rich, it is used with every dish of which they eat, as we take
+bread; with the poor, it has every form--porridge, brose, bread; and no
+meal is complete without it: next to mandioc, the feijoam or dry
+kidney-bean, dressed in every possible way, but most frequently stewed
+with a small bit of pork, garlic, salt, and pimento, is the favourite
+food; and for dainties, from the noble to the slave, sweetmeats of every
+description, from the most delicate preserves and candies to the
+coarsest preparations of treacle, are swallowed wholesale.
+
+[Note 78: This was no longer the case at my second visit to Rio, and
+every thing eatable was much improved.]
+
+We have hired a horse for our invalid, and I have borrowed one for
+myself. These animals are rather pretty at Rio, but far from strong;
+they are fed on maize and capim, or Guinea grass, which was introduced
+of late years into Brazil, and thrives prodigiously: it is cultivated by
+planting the joints; the stem and leaves are as large as those of
+barley; it grows sometimes to the height of six or seven feet, and the
+flower is a large loose pannicle. The quantity necessary for each horse
+per day costs about eightpence, and his maize as much more. The common
+horses here sell for from twenty to one hundred dollars; the fine Buenos
+Ayres horses fetch a much higher price. Mules are generally used for
+carriages, being much hardier, and more capable of bearing the summer
+heat.
+
+_December 19th_.--I walked by the side of Langford's horse up one of the
+little valleys at the foot of the Corcorado: it is called the
+Laranjeiros, from the numerous orange trees which grow on each side of
+the little stream that beautifies and fertilises it. Just at the
+entrance to that valley, a little green plain stretches itself on either
+hand, through which the rivulet runs over its stony bed, and affords a
+tempting spot to groups of washerwomen of all hues, though the greater
+number are black; and they add not a little to the picturesque effect of
+the scene: they generally wear a red or white handkerchief round the
+head; and a full-plaited mantle tied over one shoulder, and passed under
+the opposite arm, with a full petticoat, is a favourite dress. Some wrap
+a long cloth round them, like the Hindoos; and some wear an ugly
+European frock, with a most ungraceful sort of bib tied before them.
+Round the washerwoman's plain, hedges of acacia and mimosa fence the
+gardens of plantains, oranges, and other fruits which surround every
+villa; and beyond these, the coffee plantations extend far up the
+mountain, whose picturesque head closes the scene. The country-houses
+here are neither large nor magnificent; but they are decorated with
+verandas, and have often a handsome flight of steps up to the
+dwelling-house of the master, beneath which are either store-houses, or
+the habitations of the slaves: they have all a gateway, large and
+handsome, whatever the house may be; and that gateway generally leads to
+at least one walk where every kind of flower is cultivated. Brazil is
+particularly rich in splendid creeping flowers and shrubs; and these are
+mingled with the orange and lemon blossoms, and the jasmine and rose
+from the East, till the whole is one thicket of beauty and fragrance. I
+scarcely know whether my invalid or myself enjoyed the morning most. A
+few more such, and I should think all sickness must disappear.
+
+_December 20th._--Spent in paying and receiving visits in the
+neighbourhood. The houses are built a good deal like those of the south
+of Europe: there is generally a court, on one side of which is the
+dwelling-house, and the others are formed by the offices and garden.
+Sometimes the garden is immediately close to the house, and in the
+suburbs this is generally the case. In town, very few houses have the
+luxury of a garden at all. These gardens are rather like oriental
+flower-plots, but they assimilate well with the climate. The flowers of
+the parterres of Europe grow by the side of the gayer plants and shrubs
+of the country, shaded by the orange, banana, bread-fruit (now nearly
+naturalised here,) and the palms, between straight alleys of limes, over
+whose heads the African melia waves its lilac blossoms; and on the
+raised water channels, china vases are placed, filled with aloes and
+tuberoses, and here and there a statue intermixed. In these gardens
+there are occasionally fountains and seats under the trees, forming
+places of no undelightful rest in this hot climate.
+
+_Friday, December 21st._--Mr. Hayne, one of the commissioners of the
+slave trade commission, and his sister, having proposed a party to see
+the botanic gardens, we set off soon after daylight; and drove to
+their house on the bay of Boto Fogo, perhaps the most beautiful spot in
+the neighbourhood of Rio, rich as it is in natural beauty; and its
+beauty is increased by the numerous and pretty country-houses which now
+surround it. These have all grown up since the arrival of the court from
+Lisbon; before that time, this lovely spot was only inhabited by a few
+fishermen and gipsies, with, it might be, a villa or two on the sloping
+banks by the fruit gardens. Beyond the bay, we drove through a beautiful
+lane to the Lake of Rodrigo de Freitas: it is nearly circular, and about
+five miles in circumference; it is surrounded by mountains and forests,
+except where a short sandy bar affords an occasional outlet to the sea,
+when the lake rises so high as to threaten inconvenience to the
+surrounding plantations. It is impossible to conceive any thing richer
+than the vegetation down to the very water's edge around the lake.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+We were to breakfast at the gardens, but as the weather is now hot, we
+resolved first to walk round them. They are laid out in convenient
+squares, the alleys being planted on either side with a very
+quick-growing nut tree, brought from Bencoolen originally, now
+naturalised here. The nut is as good as the filbert, and larger than the
+walnut, and yields abundance of oil; the leaf is about the size, and not
+unlike the shape, of that of the sycamore. The timber also is useful.
+The quick growth of this tree is unexampled among timber trees, and its
+height and beauty distinguish it from all others. The hedges between the
+compartments are of a shrub which I should have taken for myrtle, but
+that the leaves though firm are not fragrant. This garden was destined
+by the King for the cultivation of the oriental spices and fruits, and
+above all, of the tea plant, which he obtained, together with several
+families accustomed to its culture, from China. Nothing can be more
+thriving than the whole of the plants. The cinnamon, camphor, nutmeg,
+and clove, grow as well as in their native soil. The bread-fruit
+produces its fruit in perfection, and such of the oriental fruits as
+have been brought here ripen as well as in India. I particularly
+remarked the jumbo malacca, from India, and the longona (_Euphoria
+Longona_), a dark kind of lechee from China. I was disappointed to find
+no collection of the indigenous plants. However, so much has been done
+as to give reasonable hopes of farther improvement, when the political
+state of the country shall be quiet enough to permit attention to these
+things.
+
+The stream that waters the garden flows through a lovely valley, where
+the royal powder-mills are situated; but being fearful of too much
+exertion for Langford we put off visiting them to another day, and
+returned to the garden gate to breakfast. His Majesty John VI. built a
+small house there, with three or four rooms, to accommodate the royal
+party, when they visited the gardens. Our breakfast was prepared in the
+veranda of that house, from whence we had a charming view of the lake,
+with the mountains and woods,--the ocean, with three little islands that
+lie off the lake; and in the fore-ground a small chapel[79] and village,
+at the extremity of a little smooth green plain.
+
+[Note 79: Dedicated to St. John Baptist. I am not sure whether this
+or N.S. da Cabeca is the mother church; the same clergyman officiates in
+both.]
+
+After waiting with our agreeable and well-informed friends till the
+sea-breeze set in, we returned part of the way along the lake, and then
+ascended to the parsonage of Nossa Senhora da Cabeca, where we were
+joined by several other persons who had come to dine there with us. The
+Padre Manoel Gomez received us very kindly, and our pic-nic was spread
+in the ample veranda of his parsonage. Behind the veranda three small
+rooms served for sleeping-room, kitchen, and pantry. Half a dozen small
+cottages in the field behind contain the healthy-looking negroes who are
+employed in his coffee-grounds, and a swarm of children of every shade,
+between black and white. On a little eminence in the midst of these
+stands the chapel of Our Lady, which is the parish church of a large
+district. It is exceedingly small; but serves as the place where the
+sacraments are administered, and the licences granted for marriages,
+burials, and christenings. The owners of estates have generally private
+chapels, where daily mass is performed for the benefit of their own
+people; so that the parish church is only applied to on the
+above-mentioned occasions. About a stone's throw behind the chapel, a
+clear rivulet runs rapidly down the mountain, leaping from rock to rock,
+in a thousand little cascades, and forming, here and there, delightful
+baths. Nor is it without its inhabitants, which increase the simple
+luxuries of the Padre's table. He tells me the crawfish in his stream
+are better than any in the neighbourhood; the water itself is pure,
+light, and delicate.
+
+At length all our friends had assembled, and we returned to the veranda
+to dine. To judge by the materials of the feast, so blended were the
+productions of every climate that we could scarcely have pronounced in
+what part of the world we were, had not the profusion of ananas and
+plantains, compared with the small quantity of apples and peaches,
+reminded us of it. As is usual on such occasions, the oldest inhabitants
+of Brazil praised most what came from afar; while _we_ all gave the
+preference to the productions of the country.
+
+I was soon drawn away from the table by the beauty of the prospect,
+which I endeavoured to sketch. The coffee plantations are the only
+cultivated grounds hereabouts; and they are so thickly set with orange
+trees, lemons, and other tall shrubs, that they form in appearance
+rather a variety in the woods, than that mixture of cultivated with wild
+ground, which might be looked for so near a large city, where we expect
+to see the labour of man encroaching in some degree on the wild beauties
+of nature. But here vegetation is so luxuriant, that even the pruned and
+grafted tree springs up like the native of the forest.
+
+As every body was determined to be pleased, we all felt sorry when it
+was time to separate; but Burns has made all the reflections one can
+make on breaking up a pleasant party--
+
+    "Pleasures are like poppies spread,--
+    You seize the flower, the bloom is shed;
+    Or like the snow-falls in the river,--
+    A moment white, then lost for ever;
+    Or like the rainbow's fleeting form,
+    Evanishing amid the storm;
+    Or like the borealis race,
+    That flit ere you can point their place.
+    No man can tether time or tide:
+    The hour approaches,--_we_ must ride."
+
+And so we did.--We walked down to the foot of the hill, and each took
+his or her several conveyance; Colonel and Mrs. Cunningham their
+comfortable English chariot, Mr. and Miss Hayne their pretty curricle,
+and I my Rio caleche or _sege_,--a commodious but ugly carriage, very
+heavy, but well enough adapted to the rough roads between the garden and
+the town. The gentlemen all rode, and most of us carried home something.
+Fruit and flowers attracted some; Langford got a number of diamond
+beetles, and a magnificent butterfly, and I a most inadequate sketch of
+the scene from the Padre's house.
+
+_December 27th._--Since the jaunt to the botanical gardens, some of our
+invalids have been gaining ground: others who were well have become
+invalids, and I have done nothing but ride about or talk with them, and
+look at the beautiful views of the neighbourhood, and get a little
+better acquainted with the inhabitants; of whom the most amusing, so far
+as I have yet seen, are certainly the negroes, who carry about the fruit
+and vegetables for sale. The midshipmen have made friends with some of
+them. One of them has become quite a friend in the house; and after he
+has sold his master's fruit, earns a small gratuity for himself, by his
+tales, his dances, and his songs. His tribe, it seems, was at war with a
+neighbouring king, and he went out to fight when quite a boy, was taken
+prisoner, and sold. This is probably the story of many: but our friend
+tells it with action and emphasis, and shows his wounds, and dances his
+war dance, and shouts his wild song, till the savage slave becomes
+almost a sublime object. I have been for an hour to-night at a very
+different scene, a ball given by Mr. B----, a respectable English
+merchant. The Portuguese and Brazilian ladies are decidedly superior in
+appearance to those of Bahia; they look of higher caste: perhaps the
+residence of the court for so many years has polished them. I cannot
+say the men partake of the advantage; but I cannot yet speak Portuguese
+well enough to dare to pronounce what either men or women really are. As
+to the English, what can I say? They are very like all one sees at home,
+in their rank of life; and the ladies, very good persons doubtless,
+would require Miss Austin's pen to make them interesting. However, as
+they appear to make no pretensions to any thing but what they are, to me
+they are good-humoured, hospitable, and therefore pleasing.
+
+_Monday, 31st Dec. 1822_.--I went to town for the first time; our road
+lay through the suburb of the Catete for about half a mile. Some
+handsome houses are situated on either hand, and the spaces between are
+filled with shops, and small houses inhabited by the families of the
+shopkeepers in town. We then came to the hill called the Gloria, from
+the name of the church dedicated to N.S. da Gloria, on the eminence
+immediately overlooking the sea. The hill is green, and wooded and
+studded with country-houses. It is nearly insulated; and the road passes
+between it and another still higher, just where a most copious stream
+issues from an aqueduct (built, I think, by the Conde de Lavradio), and
+brings health and refreshment to this part of the town from the
+neighbouring mountains. Farther on, after passing the beach of the
+Gloria, we turned to the left, and entered the new part of that town
+through the arches of the great aqueduct built in 1718 by the viceroy
+Albuquerque. This supplies four copious fountains. The largest is the
+Carioca[80], near the convent of Sant Antonio; it has twelve mouths, and
+is most picturesque in itself: it is constantly surrounded by slaves,
+with their water-barrels, and by animals drinking. Just beyond are
+troughs of granite, where a crowd of washerwomen are constantly
+employed; and over against these, benches are placed, on which there are
+constantly seated new negroes for sale. The fountain of the Marecas is
+opposite to the public gardens, and near the new barracks; and, besides
+the spouts for water for the inhabitants, there are two troughs always
+full for the animals. The third is a very handsome one, in the palace
+square; and the fourth, called the Mouro, I did not see. The aqueduct
+is of brick, and is supported on two ranges of arches across the valley
+between two of the five hills of the city. The public buildings at Rio
+have nothing very remarkable about them. Even the churches present no
+architectural beauty, and owe the good effect they have in the general
+view to their size and situation. There are seven parish churches, and
+numerous chapels dependent on each. The first and eldest parish is that
+of St. Sebastian; the church dedicated to whom is the royal chapel, the
+only one I saw to-day. It is handsome within, richly gilt, and the
+pictures on the ceiling are far from contemptible; but I cannot praise
+that of the altar-piece, where Our Lady is covering with her cloak the
+Queen Dona Maria, and all the royal family, on their arrival in Brazil.
+The choir is served in a manner that would not disgrace Italy. I
+attended at vespers, and have seldom been more gratified with the music
+of the evening service. This the chapel owes to the residence of the
+royal family, whose passion and talent for music are hereditary.
+Adjoining to this chapel is the church and convent of the Carmelites,
+which forms part of the palace; and within which is the royal library of
+70,000 volumes, where on all days, except holidays, the public are
+admitted to study from nine till one o'clock in the forenoon, and from
+four o'clock till sunset. This part of the palace occupies one side of a
+handsome square: the palace itself fills up another; a third has private
+houses, built uniformly with the palace, besides the fish-market; and
+the fourth is open to the sea. The water-edge is faced with a handsome
+granite pier and steps, the blocks of which are bolted with copper. In
+the centre of the pier there is a fountain, supplied from the aqueduct
+of Albuquerque; and altogether the appearance of the palace square is
+extremely handsome. We went thence into a street behind it, and saw the
+front of the senate-house, which is connected with the palace, and the
+cemetery of the Carmelite church, which is a prettier thing than
+church-yards usually are. In the centre of a small quadrangle there is a
+cross, and by it a young cypress tree: all around there are flowers, and
+sweet herbs, and porcelain vases, containing roses and aloes placed on
+little pedestals and on a broad low wall that surrounds the square. I
+looked at first in vain for graves; at length I observed on these low
+walls, and on the higher ones in the outer circle, indications of
+arches, each being numbered. These are the places for the dead, who are
+walled up there with quick-lime; and, at a certain period, the bones and
+ashes are removed to make room for others. At the time of removal, if
+the dead has a friend who wishes it, the remains are collected in urns
+or other receptacles, and placed in a building appropriated for them, or
+where the friend pleases; otherwise they go to the common receptacle,
+and perish totally by the addition of more quick-lime. This is, I doubt
+not, the wholesomest way of disposing of the dead; and, even to the
+sense, is better than the horrid burials at Bahia, where they must
+infect the air. But there seems to me so little feeling in thus getting
+rid at once of the remains of that which has once been dear to us, that
+I went away in disgust.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Note 80: The nickname of the inhabitants of Rio is Carioca, from
+this fountain.]
+
+The city of Rio is more like an European city than either Bahia or
+Pernambuco; the houses are three or four stories high, with projecting
+roofs, and tolerably handsome. The streets are narrow, few being wider
+than that of the Corso at Rome, to which one or two bear a resemblance
+in their general air, and especially on days of festivals, when the
+windows and balconies are decorated with crimson, yellow, or green
+damask hangings. There are two very handsome squares, besides that of
+the palace. One, formerly the Roca, is now that of the Constitucao, to
+which the theatre, some handsome barracks and fine houses, behind which
+the hills and mountains tower up on two sides, give a very noble
+appearance. The other, the Campo de Santa Anna, is exceedingly
+extensive[81], but unfinished. Two of the principal streets run across
+it, from the sea-side to the extremity of the new town, nearly a league,
+and new and wide streets are stretching out in every direction. But I
+was too tired with going about in the heat of the day to do more than
+take a cursory view of these things, and could not even persuade myself
+to look at the new fountain which is supplied by a new aqueduct.
+
+[Note 81: It is 1713 feet square.]
+
+There is in the city an air of bustle and activity quite agreeable to
+our European eyes; yet the Portuguese all take their siesta after
+dinner. The negroes, whether free blacks or slaves, look cheerful and
+happy at their labour. There is such a demand for them, that they find
+full employment, and of course good pay, and remind one here as little
+as possible of their sad condition, unless, indeed, one passes the
+street of the Vallongo; then the slave-trade comes in all its horrors
+before one's eyes. On either hand are magazines of new slaves, called
+here _peices_; and there the wretched creatures are subject to all the
+miseries of a new negro's life, scanty diet, brutal examination, and the
+lash.
+
+_Tuesday, January 1st, 1823_.--I went to pay a second visit to an
+illustrious exile, Count Hogendorp, one of the Emperor Napoleon's
+generals: my first had been accidental. One morning last week, riding
+with two of our young midshipmen, we came to a pleasant-looking cottage,
+high on the side of the Corcovado, and at the door we saw a very
+striking figure, to whom I instantly apologized for intruding on his
+grounds, saying that we were strangers, and had come there accidentally.
+He instantly, with a manner that showed him to be no common person,
+welcomed us; asked our names, and on being told them, said he had heard
+of us; and, but for his infirmities, would have called on us. He
+insisted on our dismounting, as a shower was coming on, and taking
+shelter with him. By this time I perceived it was Count Hogendorp, and
+asked him if I had guessed rightly. He answered, yes; and added a few
+words, signifying that his master's servants, even in exile, carried
+that with them which distinguished them from other men.
+
+The Count is the wreck of a once handsome man: he has not lost his
+martial air: he is tall, but not too thin; his grey eyes sparkle with
+intelligence, and his pure and forcible language is still conveyed in a
+clear well-toned voice, though a little the worse for age. He ushered us
+into a spacious veranda, where he passes most of the day, and which is
+furnished with sofas, chairs, and tables: he then ordered his servant to
+bring breakfast; we had coffee, milk, and fresh butter, all the produce
+of his own farm; and, as we sat, we saw the showers passing by and
+under us across the valley, which leads the eye to the bay below. The
+General entered frankly into conversation, and during breakfast, and
+while the shower lasted, spoke almost incessantly of his imperial
+master. Early in life the Count had entered the army, a soldier of
+fortune, under Frederick of Prussia. On his return to his native
+country, Holland, he was employed by the States, successively, as
+governor of the eastern part of Java, and as envoy to one of the German
+courts. During his residence in Java, he had visited many of the English
+settlements on the main land of India, and had learned English, which he
+spoke well.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+On the annexation of Holland to France, he entered the French service
+with the rank of full colonel. He was always a great favourite with
+Napoleon, to whom his honesty and disinterestedness in money matters
+seem to have been valuable, in proportion as these qualities were scarce
+among his followers. The Count's affection for him is excessive, I
+should have said unaccountable, had he not shown me a letter written to
+him by the emperor's own hand, on the death of his child, in which,
+besides much general kindness, there is even a touch of tenderness I had
+not looked for. During the disastrous expedition to Russia, Hogendorp
+was entrusted with the government of Poland, and kept his court at
+Wilna. His last public service was performed in the defence of Hamburgh,
+where he was lieutenant governor. He would fain have attended the
+emperor into exile; but that not being allowed, he came hither, where,
+with the greatest economy, and, I believe, some assistance from the
+prince, who has great respect for him, he lives chiefly on the produce
+of his little farm.
+
+Most of these particulars I learnt from himself, while resting and
+sheltered from the rain, which lasted nearly an hour. He then showed me
+his house, which is small indeed, consisting of only three rooms,
+besides the veranda; his study, where a few books, two or three casts
+from antique bas reliefs, and some maps and prints, indicate the
+retirement of a gentleman; his bedroom, the walls of which, with a
+capricious taste, are painted black, and on that sombre ground,
+skeletons of the natural size, in every attitude of glee, remind one of
+Holbein's Dance of Death; and a third room occupied by barrels of orange
+wine, and jars of liqueur made of the grumaxama, at least as agreeable
+as cherry brandy which it resembles, the produce of his farm; and the
+sale of which, together with his coffee, helps out his slender income.
+
+The General, as he loves to be called, led us round his garden, and
+displayed with even fondness, his fruits and his flowers, extolled the
+climate, and only blamed the people, for the neglect and want of
+industry, which wastes half the advantages God has given them. On
+returning to the house, he introduced to me his old Prussian servant,
+who has seen many a campaign with him, and his negroes, whom he freed on
+purchasing them: he has induced the woman to wear a nose jewel, after
+the fashion of Java, which he seems to remember with particular
+pleasure. I was sorry to leave the count, but was afraid some alarm
+might be felt at home concerning us, and therefore bade him adieu.
+
+This evening I paid him another visit, and found him resting after
+dinner in his veranda. We had a good deal of conversation concerning the
+state of this country, from which, with prudence, every thing good may
+be hoped; and then the Count told me he was engaged in writing his
+memoirs, of which he showed me a part, telling me he meant to publish
+them in England. I have no doubt they will be written with fidelity, and
+will furnish an interesting chapter in the history of Napoleon. I was
+sorry to see the old gentleman suffering a good deal; and his age and
+infirmities seem to threaten a speedy termination to his active
+life.[82]
+
+[Note 82: Count Hogendorp died while I was in Chile. Napoleon had
+left him by his will five thousand pounds sterling, but the old man did
+not live to know this proof of the recollection of his old master. As he
+approached his end, the Emperor Don Pedro sent to him such assistance,
+and paid him such attention as his state required or admitted of, and
+had given orders concerning his funeral; but it was found at his death
+that he was a protestant, and one of the protestant consuls therefore
+caused him to be properly interred in the English burial-ground. On
+undressing him after death, his body was found to be tattooed like those
+of the natives of the eastern islands. I never saw the count after the
+1st of January.]
+
+_January 8th, 1822._--The only variety in my quiet life since the first,
+was afforded by a large and pleasant party at Miss Hayne's. There I saw
+abundance of jewels on the heads and necks of the elderly Portuguese
+ladies, and a good deal of beauty, and some grace, among the younger
+ones, whom I begin to understand pretty well. We had some good music,
+and there was a great deal of dancing, and not a little card-playing.
+
+To-day we left the house on shore, and are again at home on board the
+Doris, with all our invalids much better. Having settled every body
+comfortably, I went ashore to the opera, as it is the benefit night of a
+favourite musician, Rosquellas, whose name is known on both sides of the
+Atlantic. The theatre is very handsome; in size and proportion, some of
+our officers think it as large as the Haymarket, but I differ from them.
+It was opened on the 12th of October, 1813, the Prince Don Pedro's
+birth-day. The boxes are commodious, and I hear, that the unseen part of
+the theatre is comfortable for the actors, dressers, &c.; but the
+machinery and decorations are deficient. The evening's amusements
+consisted of a very stupid Portuguese comedy, relieved between the acts
+by scenes from an opera of Rossini's by Rosquellas, after which, he
+wasted a great deal of fine playing on some very ugly music.
+
+_Wednesday, January 9th._--To-day is expected to be a day of much
+importance to the future fate of Brazil. But I must go back to the
+arrival of a message from the cortes at Lisbon, intimating to the Prince
+their pleasure, that he should forthwith repair to Europe, and begin his
+education, and proceed to travel incognito through Spain, France, and
+England. This message excited the most lively indignation not only in
+His Royal Highness, but in the Brazilians from one end of the kingdom to
+the other. The Prince is willing to obey the orders of his father and
+the cortes, at the same time he cannot but feel as a man the want of
+decency of the message, and being thus bid to go home; and especially
+forbidden to carry any guards with him, as it should seem, lest they
+might have contracted too much attachment for his person. The Brazilians
+regard this step as preliminary to removing from this country the courts
+of justice, which have for fourteen years been held here, and so
+removing causes to Lisbon, by which means, Brazil would be again reduced
+to the condition of a dependent colony instead of enjoying equal rights
+and privileges with the mother country, a degradation they are by no
+means inclined to submit to.
+
+The feelings of the people are sufficiently shown, in the address sent
+to the Prince, a few days ago, (24th of December,) from St. Paul's; as
+follows:--
+
+"SIR,
+
+"We had already written to Your Royal Highness, before we received the
+extraordinary gazette of the 11th instant, by the last courier: and we
+had hardly fixed our eyes on the first decree of the Cortes concerning
+the organization of the governments of the provinces of Brazil, when a
+noble indignation fired our hearts: because we saw impressed on it a
+system of anarchy and slavery. But the second, in conformity to which
+Your Royal Highness is to go back to Portugal, in order to travel
+_incognito_ only through Spain, France, and England, inspired us with
+horror.
+
+"They aim at no less than disuniting us, weakening us, and in short,
+leaving us like miserable orphans, tearing from the bosom of the great
+family of Brazil the only common father who remained to us, after they
+had deprived Brazil of the beneficent founder of the kingdom, Your Royal
+Highness's august sire. They deceive themselves; we trust in God, who is
+the avenger of injustice; He will give us courage, and wisdom.
+
+"If, by the 21st article of the basis of the constitution, which we
+approve and swear to because it is founded on universal and public
+right, the deputies of Portugal were bound to agree that the
+constitution made at Lisbon could then be obligatory on the Portuguese
+resident in that kingdom; and, that, as for those in the other three
+parts of the world, it should only be binding when their legitimate
+representatives should have declared such to be their will: How dare
+those deputies of Portugal, without waiting for those of Brazil,
+legislate concerning the most sacred interest of each province, and of
+the entire kingdom? How dare they split it into detached portions, each
+insulated, and without leaving a common centre of strength and union?
+How dare they rob Your Royal Highness of the lieutenancy, granted by
+Your Royal Highness's august father, the King? How dare they deprive
+Brazil of the privy council, the board of conscience, the court of
+exchequer, the board of commerce, the court of requests, and so many
+other recent establishments, which promised such future advantage? Where
+now shall the wretched people resort in behalf of their civil and
+judicial interests? Must they now again, after being for twelve years
+accustomed to judgment at hand, go and suffer, like petty colonists, the
+delays and chicanery of the tribunals of Lisbon, across two thousand
+leagues of ocean, where the sighs of the oppressed lose all life and all
+hope? Who would credit it, after so many bland, but deceitful
+expressions of reciprocal equality and future happiness!!!
+
+"In the session of the 6th of August last, the deputy of the Cortes,
+Pereira do Carmo, said, (and he spoke the truth,) that the constitution
+was the social compact, in which, were expressed and declared the
+conditions on which a nation might wish to constitute itself a body
+politic: and that the end of that constitution, is the general good of
+each individual, who is to enter into that social compact. How then
+dares a mere fraction of the great Portuguese nation, without waiting
+for the conclusion of this solemn national compact, attack the general
+good of the principal part of the same, and such is the vast and rich
+kingdom of Brazil; dividing it into miserable fragments, and, in a word,
+attempting to tear from its bosom the representative of the executive
+power, and to annihilate by a stroke of the pen, all the tribunals and
+establishments necessary to its existence and future prosperity? This
+unheard-of despotism, this horrible political perjury, was certainly not
+merited by the good and generous Brazil. But the enemies of order in the
+Cortes of Lisbon deceive themselves if they imagine that they can thus,
+by vain words and hollow professions, delude the good sense of the
+worthy Portuguese of both worlds.
+
+"Your Royal Highness will observe that, if the kingdom of Ireland,
+which makes part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, besides that it
+is infinitely small compared to the vast kingdom of Brazil, and is
+separated from England but by a narrow arm of the sea, which is passed
+in a few hours, yet possesses a governor-general or viceroy, who
+represents the executive power of the King of the United Kingdom, how
+can it enter the head of any one who is not either profoundly ignorant,
+or rashly inconsiderate, to pretend, that the vast kingdom of Brazil,
+should remain without a centre of activity, and without a representative
+of the executive power: and equally without a power to direct our
+troops, so as that they may operate with celerity and effect, to defend
+the state against any unforeseen attack of external enemies, or against
+internal disorders and factions, which might threaten public safety, or
+the reciprocal union of the provinces!
+
+"Yes, august Sir! It is impossible that the inhabitants of Brazil, who
+are honest, and who pride themselves on being men, particularly the
+Paulistas, should ever consent to such absurdity and such despotism.
+Yes, august Sir, Your Royal Highness must remain in Brazil, whatever may
+be the projects of the constituent Cortes, not only for the sake of our
+general good, but even for the sake of the future prosperity and
+independence of Portugal itself. If Your Royal Highness, which is not to
+be believed, were to obey the absurd and indecent decree of the 29th of
+September, besides losing, in the world, the dignity of a man and of a
+prince, by becoming the slave of a small number of factious men, you
+would also have to answer before heaven for the rivers of blood which
+would assuredly inundate Brazil on account of your absence: because its
+inhabitants, like raging tigers, would surely remember the supine sloth
+in which the ancient despotism kept them buried, and in which a new
+constitutional Machiavelism aims even now to retain them.
+
+"We therefore entreat Your Royal Highness with the greatest fervour,
+tenderness, and respect to delay your return to Europe, where they wish
+to make you travel as a pupil surrounded by, tutors and spies: We
+entreat you to confide boldly in the love and fidelity of your
+Brazilians, and especially of your Paulistas, who are all ready to shed
+the last drop of their blood, and to sacrifice their fortunes, rather
+than lose the adored Prince in whom they have placed their well-founded
+hopes of national happiness and honour. Let Your Royal Highness wait at
+least for the deputies named by this province, and for the magistracy of
+this capital, who will as soon as possible present to Your Highness our
+ardent desires and firm resolutions; and deign to receive them, and to
+listen to them, with the affection and attention, which your Paulistas
+deserve from you.
+
+"May God preserve Your Royal Highness's august person many years.
+
+  "From the Government House of St. Paul's, 24th Dec. 1821.
+
+    John Carlos Augusto de Oeyenhausen, President.
+    Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Sylva, V. President.
+    Martim Francisco de Andrada, Secretary.
+    Lazaro Jose Goncalves, Secretary.
+    Miguel Jose de Oliveria Pinto, Secretary.
+    Manoel Rodrigues Jordaen.
+    Francisco Ignacio de Souza Guimaies.
+    Joao Ferreira de Oleveira Bueno.
+    Antonio Leite Pereira de Gama Lobo.
+    Daniel Pedro Muller.
+    Andre da Silva Gomes.
+    Francisco de Paulo e Oliveira.
+    Antonio Maria Quartini."[83]
+
+[Note 83: The Prince answered this on the 4th of January, by
+assuring the Paulistas that he had transmitted the letter to Lisbon, and
+that His Royal Highness hoped from the wisdom of the Cortes that they
+would take measures for the good and prosperity of Brazil.]
+
+This letter to the Prince expresses the sentiments of all the southern
+part of Brazil, and to a certain degree those of the northern
+captaincies also. The latter are certainly as averse as the former to
+the removal of the courts of justice to Lisbon, but they would prefer a
+more northern city for the capital; while here, there is a wish among a
+considerable number of persons to remove the capital to St. Paul's, on
+account of its safety, and its neighbourhood to the mines, where the
+greatest proportion of the riches, industry, and population of Brazil is
+situated. His Royal Highness has not yet expressed his determination.
+The officers of the Lisbon troops talk loudly of his being obliged to do
+his duty, and obey the mandate of the Cortes. The Brazilians are earnest
+in their hopes that he may stay, and there are even some that look
+forward to his declaring openly for the independence of this country.
+Whatever his resolution may be, it is feared that there will be much
+disturbance, if not a civil war. Our English merchants are calling
+meetings, I believe for the purpose of requesting this ship to remain,
+at least until one of equal force shall arrive, fearing that their
+persons and property will not be safe, and every body looks a little
+anxious.
+
+10_th._--Yesterday there was a meeting of the camara of Rio; and after a
+short consultation the members went in procession, accompanied by a
+great concourse of people, to the Prince, with a strong remonstrance
+against his leaving the country, and an earnest entreaty that he would
+remain among his faithful people. His Royal Highness received them
+graciously, and replied, that since it appeared to be the wish of all,
+and for the good of all, he would remain. This declaration was received
+with shouts of enthusiasm, which were answered by the discharge of
+artillery, and every mark of public rejoicing.
+
+The day as usual, on any occasion of public interest, was ended at the
+opera, but I unfortunately could not get ashore; however some of the
+officers went. The house was illuminated. The Prince and Princess
+appeared in full dress in the king's box, which is in the centre of the
+house. They were received with enthusiasm by the people, the national
+hymn was sung, and between the acts of the play the people called on
+several of their favourite orators to address the Prince and people, on
+the event of the day. This call was obeyed by several speakers, and some
+of their addresses were printed and handed about the theatre; the best,
+or at least the most applauded, was the following by Bernardo Carvalho.
+
+"It is now only necessary to exhort you to UNION and
+TRANQUILLITY!!![84] Expressions truly sublime, and which contain the
+whole philosophy of politics. Without UNION you cannot be strong,
+without strength you cannot command TRANQUILLITY. Portuguese! Citizens!
+You have a Prince who speaks to you with kindness of your own work; who
+invites you to rally with him round the constitution; who recommends to
+you that moral force which embraces justice and is identified with
+reason, and which can alone accomplish the great work we have begun.
+To-day you burst the bonds which threatened you with suffocation. To-day
+you assume the true attitude of free men. But yet all is not done.
+Intrigue and discord, muttering furies, perhaps even now meditate fresh
+plans, and still endeavour to sow division, and to overthrow the
+trophies you have just raised to glory and to national honour. The same
+enthusiasm, ill directed, might produce the greatest crimes. Fellow
+citizens! UNION and TRANQUILLITY. The giddiness of party is unworthy of
+free men. Fulfil your duties. Yield to the gentle exhortation of your
+august Prince;... but in return say to him 'Sire! ENERGY and VIGILANCE.
+Energy to promote good,--Vigilance to prevent evil. The whole world has
+now its eyes fixed on you. The steps you are about to take, may place
+you in the temple of memory, or confound you among the number of weak
+princes, unworthy of the distinctions which adorn them. Perhaps you may
+influence the destinies of the whole world. Perhaps even Europe,
+anxiously and on tip-toe, reposes her hope upon you! PRINCE! ENERGY and
+VIGILANCE. Glory is not incompatible with youth, and the hero of the
+26th February may become the hero of the 9th January. Unite yourself
+with a people which loves you, which offers you fortune, life,
+everything. Prince! how sweet is it to behold the cordial expansion of
+the feeling of free men! but how distressing to witness the withering in
+the bud of hopes so justly founded! Banish, Sire, for ever from Brazil,
+multiform flattery, hypocrisy of double face, discord with her viperous
+tongue. Listen to truth, submit to reason, attend to justice. Be your
+attributes frankness and loyalty. Let the constitution be the pole-star
+to direct you: without it there can be no happiness for you nor for us.
+Seek not to reign over slaves, who kiss the chains of ignominy. Rule
+over free hearts. So shall you be the image of the divinity among
+us;--so will you fulfil our hopes. ENERGY and VIGILANCE, and we will
+follow your precept, UNION and TRANQUILLITY.'"
+
+[Note 84: Referring to a speech of the Prince on determining to stay
+in Brazil.]
+
+A priest, one of the favourites of the people, was called on to speak
+repeatedly. The national hymn[85] was sung again and again, and the
+Prince and Princess, who were observed to be chiefly surrounded by
+Brazilian officers, were again loudly cheered. And everything in the
+city, which was brilliantly illuminated, went off in the utmost harmony.
+
+[Note 85: Composed by the Prince.]
+
+Nothing can be more beautiful of the kind than such an illumination seen
+from the ship. The numerous forts at the entrance to the harbour, on the
+islands, and in the town, have each their walls traced in light, so they
+are like fairy fire-castles; and the scattered lights of the city and
+villages, connect them by a hundred little brilliant chains.
+
+To-day our friends the merchants are under fresh alarm, and have made a
+formal request to the captain to stay. With that petty spirit which
+passes for _diplomatic_, the deputy-consul and merchants, instead of
+saying what they are afraid of, only say, "Sir, we are afraid,
+circumstances make us so, and we hope you will stay till," &c. &c.; as
+much as to say, "You are answerable for evil, if it happens," although
+they are too much afraid of committing themselves to say why. I do not
+trouble myself now about their official reports, which I perceive are
+large sheets of paper, and large seals, without one word that might not
+be published on every church wall, for their milk and water tenor, but
+which I consider as absurd and mischievous, because they tend to excite
+distrust and alarm where no danger is. The truth is now, that there
+might be some cause of fear, if they would openly express it. The
+language of the Portuguese officers is most violent. They talk of
+carrying the Prince by main force to Lisbon, and so making him obey the
+Cortes in spite of the Brazilians; and both parties are so violent, that
+they will probably fight. In that fight there will doubtless be danger
+to foreign property; but why not say so? why not say such is the case?
+However, the wisest of the sons of men in modern times[86], has long ago
+set in the second place those who could not afford to be open and candid
+in matters of business; so _I_ may leave them alone.
+
+[Note 86: Bacon, _Essay on Dissimulation and Simulation_.]
+
+11_th_.--I went ashore last night to the opera, as it was again a gala
+night, and hoped to have witnessed the reception of the Prince and
+Princess. The Viscondeca do Rio Seco kindly invited me to her box, which
+was close to theirs; but, after waiting some time, notice arrived that
+the Prince was so busy writing to Lisbon, that he could not come. The
+double guard was withdrawn, and the play went on. I had, however, the
+pleasure of seeing the theatre illuminated, of hearing their national
+hymn, and of seeing the ladies better dressed than I had yet had
+occasion to do.
+
+There is a great deal of uneasiness to-day. The Portuguese
+commander-in-chief of the troops, General Avilez, has demanded and
+received his discharge. It is said, perhaps untruly, that his
+remonstrance to the Prince against his remaining here has been
+ungentlemanlike and indecent. I hear the troops will not consent to his
+removal, and they are particularly incensed that the choice of a
+successor should fall on General Curado, a Brazilian, who, it is said,
+will be called from St. Paul's to succeed Avilez. He is a veteran, who
+has commanded with distinction in all the campaigns on the southern
+frontier, and his actions are better known among his countrymen than
+those distant battles in Europe, on which the Portuguese officers of
+every rank are apt to pride themselves here, however slight the share
+they had in them, to the annoyance of the Brazilians.
+
+_12th_.--Yesterday the military commission for the government of the
+army here was broke up, and Curada appointed commander-in-chief, and
+minister of war. The Portuguese General Avilez made his appearance at
+the barracks of the European soldiers to take leave of them; they were
+under arms to receive him, and vowed not to part with him, or to obey
+another commander, and were with difficulty reduced to such order as to
+promise tolerable tranquillity for the day at least. It is said, that
+as it had been understood that they had expressed some jealousy, because
+the guard of honour at the opera-house had been for the two last
+evenings composed of Brazilians, the Prince sent to the Portuguese
+barracks for the guard of last night, but that they refused to go;
+saying, that as His Royal Highness was so partial to the Brazilians, he
+had better continue to be guarded by them. I am not sure this is true,
+but from the circumstances of the day it is not improbable.
+
+The opera-house was again brilliantly lighted. The Prince and Princess
+were there, and had been received as well as on the ninth, when, at
+about eleven o'clock, the Prince was called out of his box, and informed
+that bodies of from twenty to thirty of the Portuguese soldiers were
+parading the streets, breaking windows and insulting passengers in their
+way from barrack to barrack, where everything wore the appearance of
+determined mutiny. At the same time, a report of these circumstances
+having reached the house, the spectators began to rise for the purpose
+of going home; when the Prince, having given such orders as were
+necessary, returned to the box, and going with the Princess, then near
+her confinement, to the front, he addressed the people, assured them
+that there was nothing serious, that he had already given orders to send
+the riotous soldiers, who had been quarrelling with the blacks, back to
+their barracks, and entreated them not to leave the theatre and increase
+the tumult, by their presence in the street, but remain till the end of
+the piece, as he meant to do, when he had no doubt all would be quiet.
+The coolness and presence of mind of the Prince, no doubt, preserved the
+city from much confusion and misery. By the time the opera was over the
+streets were sufficiently clear to permit every one to go home in
+safety.
+
+Meantime the Portuguese troops, to the number of seven hundred, had
+marched up to the Castle-hill, commanding the principal streets in the
+town, and had taken with them four pieces of artillery, and threatened
+to sack the town. The field-pieces belonging to the Brazilians, which
+had remained in the town after the 26th of February, had been sent to
+the usual station of the artillery, at the botanical gardens, no longer
+ago than last week, so they entertained no fear of artillery. But they
+were disappointed in their expectation of being joined by that part of
+the Portuguese force which was stationed at San Cristova[)o]. This amounted
+to about 500 men[87], who said the King had left them to attend on the
+person of the Prince, and they had nothing to do with anything else; a
+declaration that was looked on with suspicion by the Brazilians.
+
+[Note 87: I am not sure of the correctness of these numbers, but I
+believe I am nearly right.]
+
+While the Portuguese were taking up their new and threatening position,
+the Brazilians were not idle. Every horse and mule in the town was
+pressed, and expresses despatched to all the militia regiments, and
+other Brazilian troops, as well as to the head-quarters of the
+artillery. The Prince was most active; so that by four o'clock this
+morning (12th), he found himself at the head of a body of four thousand
+men, in the Campo de Santa Anna, not only ready, but eager for action;
+and though deficient in discipline, formidable from their numbers and
+determination.
+
+The Portuguese had by no means expected such promptness and decision;
+they had besides not taken provision to the hill, and they were
+convinced that it would be an easy matter to starve them, by means of
+the immense superiority of numbers in the Campo. They therefore prepared
+to obey an order which the Prince communicated to them early in the day,
+to remove from the city to Praya Grande, on the other side of the
+harbour, only conditioning to carry their arms with them. His Royal
+Highness wished to have put them instantly on board of transports, to be
+conveyed to Lisbon, but the port admiral reported that there was neither
+shipping nor provision ready for the purpose; and therefore they are to
+be quartered at Praya Grande, until such shall be provided.
+
+I went ashore with an officer as early as I could, chiefly for the
+purpose of seeing the troops in the Campo de Santa Anna. In consequence,
+however, of the press of horses and mules, it was sometime before I
+could get a chaise to convey me there, and it was much too hot to walk.
+At length, however, I procured one, and determined to call on the
+Viscondeca of Rio Seco in my way, to offer her refuge in the frigate. We
+found her in a Brazilian dishabille, and looking harassed and anxious.
+She had remained in the theatre as long as the Prince last night, and
+had then hurried home to provide for the safety of her family and her
+jewels: her family she had despatched to her estate in the country; for
+the jewels, she had them all packed in small parcels, intending to
+escape with them herself in disguise to us, in case of a serious attack
+on the city; and she had left a quantity of valuable plate exposed in
+different parts of the house to occupy the soldiers on their first
+entrance. Everything, however, looks better now; and we assured her we
+had seen the first part of one of the Lisbon regiments ready to embark
+as we landed. We promised her, that on her making a signal from her
+house, or sending a message, she should have protection. She appears
+very apprehensive of evil from the liberation of the prisoners by the
+Brazilians during the night, and says, that there are some fears that
+the Portuguese will seize the forts on the other side, and hold them
+till the arrival of the reinforcements daily expected from Lisbon. This
+would, indeed, be disastrous; but I believe the apprehension to be ill
+founded.
+
+Having comforted my good friend as well as I could, we went on to the
+Campo, and found the Brazilians housed for the most part in some
+unfinished buildings. The men, though slight, looked healthy, active,
+and full of spirit; their horses were the best I have seen in the
+country; and, it might be fancy, but they gave me the idea of men
+resolute in their purpose, and determined to guard their rights and
+their homes.
+
+The scene in the Campo presented all manner of varieties. Within the
+enclosure where the artillery was placed, all was gravity and
+business-like attention: the soldiers on the alert, and the officers in
+groups, canvassing the events of the preceding night, and the
+circumstances of the day; and here and there, both within and without
+the circle, an orator was stationed with his group of auditors around
+him, listening to his political discussions, or patriotic harangues. In
+the open part of the Campo were straggling soldiers, or whole companies,
+escaped from the heated crowd of the enclosure: horses, mules, and
+asses, many of all lying down from sheer fatigue. In all directions,
+negroes were coming, laden with capim or maize for the horses, or
+bearing on their heads cool drink and sweetmeats for the men. In one
+corner, a group of soldiers, exhausted with travel and watching, lay
+asleep; in another, a circle of black boys were gambling: in short, all
+ways of beguiling the time while waiting for a great event might be
+seen; from those who silently and patiently expected the hour, in solemn
+dread of what the event might be, to those who, merely longing for
+action, filled up the interval with what might make it pass most
+lightly. I was well pleased with the view I had of the people in the
+Campo, and still better as the day wore away, for I staid sometime, to
+feel assured that all was to pass without bloodshed, beyond the two or
+three persons killed accidentally during the night.
+
+On our return to the ship, we were stopped for some time in the palace
+square, by a great concourse of people assembled to witness the entrance
+of the first Brazilian guard into the palace, while the last Portuguese
+guard marched out, amid the loud huzzas of the people; and on reaching
+the stairs, where we were to embark, we found the last of one regiment,
+and the first of another, about to sail for the Praya Grande, so that
+the city may sleep in security to-night.
+
+The inhabitants generally, but especially the foreign merchants, are
+well pleased to see the Lisbon troops dismissed; for they have long been
+most tyrannically brutal to strangers, to negroes, and not unfrequently
+to Brazilians; and, for many weeks past, their arrogance has been
+disgusting to both prince and people.[88]
+
+[Note 88: The heavy step of the Portuguese infantry has earned for
+them the nickname of _Pedechumbo_, or leaden foot; now applied to all
+partisans of Portugal.]
+
+The appearance of the city is melancholy enough: the shops are shut up,
+guards are parading the streets, and every body looks anxious. The
+shopkeepers are all employed as militia: they are walking about with
+bands and belts of raw hides over their ordinary clothes, but their
+arms and ammunition were all in good order, and excepting these and the
+English, I saw nobody at all out of doors.
+
+_13th_.--Every thing seems quiet to-day. From the ship we see the rest
+of the troops going over to the Praya Grande. Yet there is necessarily a
+great deal of anxiety among all classes of persons. Some persons have
+sent some of their valuables on board the frigate, for safety; and a
+message, I do not know on what authority, arrived to know if the Prince
+and Princess, and family, could be received and protected on board.--The
+answer, of course, is, that though the ship must observe the strictest
+neutrality between the parties, yet that we are ready at once to receive
+and protect the Princess and children, and also, whenever he has reason
+to apprehend personal danger, the Prince himself. My cabin is therefore
+ready. I hope they will not be forced to come afloat. The more they can
+trust to the Brazilians the better for them, and for the cause of that
+independence which is now so inevitable, that the only question is
+whether it shall be obtained with or without bloodshed.
+
+We have determined to have a ball on board, the day after to-morrow,
+that the people may get acquainted with us,--and then if any thing
+occurs to render it advisable to take refuge with us, they will know who
+they are to come amongst.
+
+_14th_.--The shops are open, and business going on as usual to-day. The
+Prince is granting discharges to both officers and men of the Portuguese
+regiments, who wish to remain in Brazil instead of returning to Europe.
+This is stigmatised by the Portuguese as _licensing desertion_, from the
+army of the King and Cortes; whatever they may call it, I am convinced
+that the measure tends to the present tranquillity of the capital. The
+Princess and children are gone to Santa Cruz, a country estate, formerly
+belonging to the Jesuits, now to the crown, fourteen leagues on the road
+towards St. Paul's.[89]
+
+[Note 89: This journey was very disastrous, as it caused the death
+of the infant Prince.]
+
+_15th_.--Our ball went off very well: we had more foreigners than
+English; and as there was excellent music from the opera-orchestra, and
+a great deal of dancing, the young people enjoyed it much. I should have
+done so also, but that Captain Graham was suffering with the gout so
+severely, that I could have wished to put off the dance. I had
+commissioned the Viscondeca do Rio Seco and some other ladies to bring
+their Portuguese friends, which they did, and we had a number of pretty
+and agreeable women, and several gentlemanlike men, in addition to our
+English friends.
+
+A dance on ship-board is always agreeable and picturesque: there is
+something in the very contrast afforded by the furniture of the deck of
+a ship of war to the company and occupation of a ball that is striking.
+
+    "The little warlike world within,
+    The well-reeved guns and netted canopy,"
+
+all dressed with evergreens and flowers, waving over the heads of gay
+girls and their smiling partners, furnish forth combinations in which
+poetry and romance delight, and which one must be stoical indeed to
+contemplate without emotion. I never loved dancing myself, perhaps
+because I never excelled in it; but yet, a ball-room is to me a
+delightful place. There are happy faces, and hearts not the less happy
+for the little anxious palpitations that arise now and then, and
+curiosity, and hope, and all the amiable feelings of youth and nature;
+and if among it a little elderly gaiety mingles, and excites a smile, I,
+for my part, rather reverence the youth of heart which lives through the
+cares and vexations of this life, and can mingle in, without disturbing,
+the hilarity of youth.
+
+_17th_.--Nothing remarkable yesterday or to-day, but the perfect quiet
+of the town. The Prince goes on discharging the soldiers.
+
+_19th_.--This day the new ministers arrived from St. Paul's; the chief
+of whom in station, as in talent, is Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva.
+According to the opinion entertained of him by the people here, I should
+say that Cowper had described him, when he wrote
+
+      Great offices will have
+    Great talents. And God gives to every man
+    The virtue, temper, understanding, taste,
+    That lift him into life, and lets him fall
+    Just in the niche he was ordained to fill.
+    To the deliverer of an injured land
+    He gives a tongue to enlarge upon, a heart
+    To feel, and courage to redress her wrongs.
+
+He had been sent early from Brazil to study at Coimbra, where he lay
+sick at the time of the King's departure from Lisbon; and afterwards,
+during the time of the French, he could not find means to return to his
+native country; but upon the first rising of the people in the districts
+round Oporto and Coimbra, he put himself at the head of the students of
+the university, in their successful resistance to Junot, and afterwards
+served in the campaign against Soult. When he returned to Lisbon, I
+believe, he there entered the regular army; for after bearing arms
+against Massena, I find that at the end of the war he had the rank of
+lieutenant-colonel, with which he returned to Brazil in 1819. But his
+whole time in Europe was not spent in warfare: he had travelled, and had
+become acquainted with several among the most distinguished characters
+in England, France, and Italy, and had contracted a particular esteem
+for Alfieri. The object of his travels was rather to see and learn what
+might be useful to his own country, than the mere pleasure of visiting
+different parts of the world; and I am told, that he has particularly
+attended to those branches of science which may improve the agriculture
+and the mining of Brazil.
+
+One of his brothers, Martin Francisco, is possessed of scarcely less
+talent than himself; and their family, their character, and the esteem
+in which they are held, add weight not only to their own interest, but
+to the government which employs them.
+
+The guards and patroles were doubled along the road, by which they and
+the veteran General Corado arrived, as it was feared the Portuguese, who
+since the 12th have been completely distinct from the Brazilians, might
+have impeded their progress. However, every thing was perfectly
+tranquil.
+
+20_th_.--The Aurora arrived from Pernambuco and Bahia, at both which
+places it appears that every thing is quiet. But as the meeting of the
+camara of Bahia is to take place early next month, for the purpose of
+chusing a new provisional government, the English are apprehensive of
+some disturbance, and therefore we are to return thither to protect our
+friends in case of need.
+
+21_st_.--I went ashore to shop with Glennie. There are a good many
+English shops, such as saddlers, and stores, not unlike what we call in
+England an Italian warehouse, for eatables and drinkables; but the
+English here generally sell their goods wholesale to native or French
+retailers. The latter have a great many shops of mercery, haberdashery,
+and millinery. For tailors, I think, there are more English than French,
+and but few of either. There are bakers' shops of both nations, and
+plenty of English pot-houses, whose Union Jacks, Red Lions, Jolly Tars,
+with their English inscriptions, vie with those of Greenwich or
+Deptford. The goldsmiths all live in one street, called by their name
+_Rua dos Ourives_, and their goods are exposed in hanging frames at each
+side of the shop-door or window, in the fashion of two centuries back.
+The workmanship of their chains, crosses, buttons, and other ornaments,
+is exquisite, and the price of the labour, charged over the weight of
+the metal, moderate.
+
+Most of the streets are lined with English goods: at every door the
+words _London superfine_ meet the eye: printed cottons, broad cloths,
+crockery, but above all, hardware from Birmingham, are to be had little
+dearer than at home, in the Brazilian shops; besides silks, crapes, and
+other articles from China. But any thing bought by retail in an English
+or French shop is, usually speaking, very dear.
+
+I am amused at the apparent apathy of the Brazilian shopkeepers. If they
+are engaged, as now is not unfrequently the case, in talking politics,
+or reading a newspaper, or perhaps only enjoying a cool seat in the back
+of their shop, they will often say they have not the article enquired
+for, rather than rise to fetch it; and if the customer persists and
+points it out in the shop, he is coolly desired to get it for himself,
+and lay down the money. This happened several times during the course
+of our search for some tools for turning to-day along the Rua Direita,
+where every second house is a hardware shop, furnished from Sheffield
+and Birmingham.
+
+_22d_.--The Princess's birth-day was celebrated by firing of cannon, a
+review, and a drawing-room. Capt. Prescott, of the Aurora, and Capt.
+Graham, attended it. It seems the Prince took little or no notice of
+them, or any of the English. I think it probable that the Brazilians are
+jealous of us, on account of our long alliance with Portugal; and
+besides, they may take the converse of the maxim, "those that are not
+against us are for us;" and think because we are not for them, we are
+against them.[90]
+
+[Note 90: I have since learned that some very warm expressions of
+personal regard and sympathy used by an English officer (not, however,
+belonging either to the Aurora or Doris) to a Portuguese, with whom he
+had but a slight acquaintance, on occasion of his embarking for Praya
+Grande, had led the Portuguese to believe that it meant something more,
+and that, in case of need, the English would join with the Portuguese.
+This at least was whispered in the town, and very naturally accounts for
+the jealousy entertained against us.]
+
+_24th_.--We sailed at daylight for Bahia. It was one of the finest
+mornings of this fine climate, and the remarkable land behind the
+Sugar-loaf was seen to its best advantage in the early light. The
+extreme beauty of this country is such, that it is impossible not to
+talk and think of it for ever; not a turn but presents some scene both
+beautiful and new; and if a mountainous and picturesque country have
+really the power of attaching its inhabitants, above all others, the
+_Fluminenses_ ought to be as great patriots as any in the world.
+
+_February 8th, Bahia_.--After a fortnight's sail, the two first days of
+which were calm, followed by a gale of wind, which lasted nearly three
+days, we anchored to-day in the bay of All Saints, which we found
+looking as gaily beautiful as ever. The election of the new provisional
+government took place yesterday, quite peaceably; and of the seven
+members of the junta, only one is a native of Portugal.
+
+I remark, that the language of the writers of gazettes here is much
+bolder than at Rio; and I think that there is here a truly republican
+spirit among a very considerable number of persons: whether it extends
+throughout the province I cannot judge; but I am assured that a desire
+for independence, and a resolution to possess it, is universal.
+
+_10th_.--We went ashore yesterday. The advance of the season has ripened
+the oranges and mangoes since we left Bahia, and has increased the
+number of insects, so that the nights are no longer silent. The hissing,
+chirping, and buzzing of crickets, beetles, and grasshoppers, continue
+from sunset to sunrise; and all day long the trees and flowers are
+surrounded by myriads of brilliant wings. The most destructive insects
+are the ants, and every variety of them that can hurt vegetable life is
+to be found here. Some form nests, like huge hanging cones, among the
+branches of the trees, to which a covered gallery of clay from the
+ground may be traced along the trunk: others surround the trunks and
+larger branches with their nests; many more live under ground. I have
+seen in a single night the most flourishing orange-tree stripped of
+every leaf by this mischievous creature.
+
+_16th_.--We sailed from Bahia, finding every thing, to all appearance,
+quiet[91]; and no apprehension being entertained by the English, a ball
+at the consul's, another at Mrs. N.'s, and a third at Mrs. R.'s, at each
+of which, as many of our young men as could get ashore were present,
+made them very happy, and we had some very pleasant rides into the
+country. I had intended, if possible, visiting a huge mass, said to be
+so similar to the meteoric stones that have fallen in different parts of
+the world as to induce a belief that it is also one of them, although it
+weighs many tons, and I hoped to get a piece of it; but I find it is
+near Nazareth de Farinha, on the other side of the bay, and too far off
+for this present visit to Bahia. The first time we were at Bahia, I
+could not even learn where it was, so incurious are my countrymen here
+about what brings no profit.
+
+[Note 91: Very shortly after we sailed, I believe within a day or
+two, those disturbances broke out at Bahia, which lasted until the 2d of
+July, 1823.]
+
+_24th. Rio de Janeiro_.--Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage here
+from Bahia. The school-room proceeds exceedingly well, both with the
+master and the scholars; and as we are all in tolerable health, we look
+forward with no small pleasure to our voyage to Chile, for which we are
+preparing.
+
+During our absence, the Prince Don Pedro has been very active, and has
+dismissed all the Portuguese troops. On the ships being provided to
+transport them to Europe, they refused to embark, on which His Royal
+Highness caused a heavy frigate to anchor opposite to their quarters,
+and went on board himself the night before the morning appointed by him
+for their sailing. The steam-vessel attended for the purpose of towing
+the transports, in case of necessity; and several gun-vessels were
+stationed so as to command the barracks of the refractory regiments,
+while a body of Brazilian soldiers was stationed in the neighbourhood.
+The Prince was, during the greater part of the night, in his barge,
+going from vessel to vessel, and disposing every thing to make good his
+threat, that if the Portuguese were not all on board by eight o'clock
+the next morning, he would give them such a breakfast of Brazilian balls
+as should make them glad to leave the country. This he had been provoked
+to say, by a message from the officers and men, insolently delivered
+that very night, desiring more time to prepare for their voyage. Seeing
+His Royal Highness in earnest, which they could hardly be brought to
+believe he was, they thought it most prudent to do as they were bid; and
+accordingly embarked, to the no small joy of the Brazilians, who had
+long cordially hated them.
+
+_Friday, March 1st_.--The weather is now excessively hot, the
+thermometer being seldom under 88 deg., and we have had it on board at 92 deg.
+Fahrenheit. Capt. Graham has had a slight attack of gout, for which
+reason I have not been ashore since our return from Bahia; but as he is
+a little better to-day he has insisted on my accompanying a party of our
+young men in an expedition up the harbour to see a country estate and
+factory.
+
+At one o'clock, our friend, Mr. N. called for us, with a large boat of
+the country, which is better for the purpose than our ship's boats.
+These vessels have a standing awning, and two very large triangular
+sails: they are managed according to their sizes by four, six, eight, or
+more negroes, besides the man at the helm: when rowing, the rowers rise
+at every stroke, and then throw themselves back on their seats. I think
+I have heard that within the memory of persons now in the navy it was
+the fashion to row the admiral's barges so in England. The boatmen are
+here universally negroes; some free, and owners of their boats; others
+slaves, who are obliged to take home a daily fixed sum to their masters,
+who often pass a life of total indolence, being fed in this way by their
+slaves.
+
+The place we were going to is Nossa Senhora da Luz, about twelve miles
+from Rio, up the harbour, near the mouth of the river Guaxindiba, which
+river rises in the hills of Taypu; and though its straight course is
+only five miles, its windings would measure twenty or more: it is
+navigable, and its banks are astonishingly fertile.
+
+The evening was charming, and we sailed past many a smiling island and
+gay wooded promontory, where gardens and country-houses are thickly
+scattered, and whence provisions in innumerable boats and canoes cross
+the bay every morning for the city. Our first view of N.S. da Luz
+presented such a high red bank, half covered with grass and trees,
+overhanging the water in the evening sun, as Cuyp would have chosen for
+a landscape; and just as I was wishing for something to animate it, the
+oxen belonging to the factory came down to drink and cool themselves in
+the bay, and completed the scene. The cattle here are large and
+well-shaped, something like our own Lancashire breed, and mottled in
+colour, though mostly red. On doubling the point of the bank, we came
+upon a small white church, with some venerable trees near it; beyond
+that was the house, with a long veranda, supported by white columns; and
+still farther on, the sugar-house, and the pottery and brick-work. We
+landed close to the house; but as the beach is shallow and muddy, we
+were carried ashore by negroes. Nothing can be finer than the scenery
+here. From the veranda, besides the picturesque and domestic
+fore-ground, we see the bay, dotted with rocky islands; one of these,
+called Itaoca, is remarkable as having, in the opinion of the Indians,
+been the residence of some divine person: it is connected with the
+traditions concerning their benefactor, Zome, who taught them the use of
+the mandioc, and whom the first missionaries here contrived to convert
+into St. Thomas the apostle. It consists of one immense stone cleft
+throughout, and a little earth and sand gathered round it, on which are
+trees and shrubs of the freshest verdure; some of the other islets are
+bare, and some again have houses and villages on them: the whole scene
+is terminated by the Organ Mountains, whose spiry and fantastic summits
+attracting the passing clouds, secure an everlasting variety to the eye.
+
+We found, that owing to our neglect in not sending beforehand to
+announce our visit, neither the master of the house nor his housekeeper
+were at home: however, Mr. N. being an old friend, went into the poultry
+yard, and ordered thence an excellent supper; and while it was
+preparing, we went to look at the pottery, which is only for the
+coarsest red ware. The wheel used here is the clumsiest and rudest I
+ever saw, and the potter is obliged to sit sideways by it. The clay,
+both for the pottery and the bricks, is dug on the spot; it is coarse
+and red: it is tempered by the trampling of mules; but all that we use
+spades and shovels for is done by the bare hands of the negroes: the
+furnaces for baking the bricks and jars are partly scooped out of the
+hill, and faced with brick. Leaving the pottery, we climbed the hill
+that marks the first approach to N.S. da Luz; and on the way up its
+steep and rugged side, our dogs disturbed a flock of sheep, as
+picturesque and as ragged as Paul Potter himself could have desired:
+they had been lying round the root of a huge old acacia, decorated with
+innumerable parasite plants, some of which cling like ivy to the trunk,
+and others climbing to the topmost boughs, fall thence in grey silky
+garlands, or, like the tillandsia, adorn them with hundreds of pink and
+white flowers; among these, many an ant and bee had fixed his nest, and
+every thing was teeming with life and beauty.
+
+The moon was up long before we returned from our ramble, and long before
+our host arrived. Had the Neapolitan ambassador, who told George the
+Third that the moon of his country was worth the sun of England, ever
+been in Brazil, I could almost forgive the hyperbole. The clear mild
+light playing on such scenery, and the cool refreshing breeze of
+evening, after a day of all but intolerable heat, render the night
+indeed the season of pleasure in this climate: nor were the rude songs
+of the negroes, as they loaded the boats to be ready to sail down the
+harbour with the morning's land-breeze, unpleasing.
+
+As we were looking over the bay, a larger boat appeared: it neared the
+shore; and our host, Mr. Lewis P., who superintends the fazenda, landed,
+and kindly received our apology for coming without previous notice. The
+visit had long been talked of; but now our time at Rio was likely to be
+so short, that had we not come to-day, we might not have come at all. He
+led the way to the garden, where we passed the time till supper was
+ready. The midshipmen found more oranges, and better than they had yet
+met with, and did full justice to them. The fruit and vegetables of
+Europe and America, of the temperate and torrid zones, meet here; nor
+are their flowers forgotten: over against the little parterre, an orange
+and a tamarind tree shade a pleasant bench; close to which, in something
+of oriental taste, the white stucco wall of the well is raised and
+crowned with flower-pots, filled with roses and sweet herbs.
+
+_2d._--I rose at daylight, and rode with Mr. N. through the estate,
+while Mr. Dance, my cousin Glennie, and the two boys, went to shoot in
+the marsh by the river side.
+
+Every turn in our ride brought a new and varied landscape into view:
+beneath, the sugar-cane in luxuriant growth; above, the ripening orange
+and the palm; around and scattered through the plain enlivened by the
+windings of the Guazindiba, the lime, the guava, and a thousand odorous
+and splendid shrubs, beautified the path.--But all is new here. The long
+lines of fazenda houses, that now and then take from the solitariness of
+nature, suggest no association with any advance either of old or present
+time, in the arts that civilise or that ennoble man. The rudest
+manufactures, carried on by African slaves, one half of whom are newly
+imported, (that is, are still smarting under the separation from all
+that endears the home, even of a savage,) are all the approaches to
+improvement; and though nature is at least as fine as in India or in
+Italy, the want of some reference to man, as an intellectual and moral
+being, robs it of half its charms. However, I returned well pleased from
+my ride, and found my young sportsmen not less pleased with their
+morning's ramble. Not, indeed, that they had shot snipes, as they
+intended, but they had gotten a huge lizard (_Lacerta Marmorata_), of a
+kind they had not seen before. They had seen the large land-crab
+(_Ruricola_), and they had brought down a boatswain bird, a sort of
+pelican, (_Pelicanus Lencocephalus_), which they proposed to stuff.
+Accordingly after breakfast, as the weather was too hot to walk farther,
+the bird and the lizard were both skinned, the guns were cleaned, and I
+made a sketch of the landscape.
+
+In the evening I took a long walk to a point of view whence the whole
+bay with the city in the distance is distinctly seen, and on the way
+stopped at a cottage, where Mr. P. who is, literally, here "king,
+priest, and prophet," had some enquiry to make, concerning the health of
+the indwellers: these were two negroes, who have grown old in the
+service of the estate, and are no longer useful. I have seen examples of
+such being freed, that is, turned out of doors to starve. Here they
+would be entitled, by the rules of the estate, if not by law, to come
+every day for the same allowance as the working negroes: but they do not
+choose it. They indeed live in a hut, and on the ground of their master;
+but they maintain themselves by rearing a few fowls, and making baskets:
+so dear is the feeling of independence, even in old age, sickness, and
+slavery.
+
+_Sunday, 3d._--I went out before breakfast, with a negro carpenter for
+my guide. This man, with little instruction, has learned his art so as
+to be not only a good carpenter and joiner, but also a very tolerable
+cabinet-maker, and in other respects displays a quickness of
+understanding which gives no countenance to the pretended inferiority of
+negro intellect. I was much pleased with the observations he made on
+many things which I remarked as new, and with the perfect understanding
+he seemed to have of all country works. After breakfast, I attended the
+weekly muster of all the negroes of the fazenda; clean shirts and
+trowsers were given the men, and shifts and skirts to the women, of very
+coarse white cotton. Each, as he or she came in, kissed a hand, and then
+bowed to Mr. P. saying, either "Father, give me blessing," or "The names
+of Jesus and Mary be praised!" and were answered accordingly, either
+"Bless you," or "Be they praised." This is the custom in old
+establishments: it is repeated morning and evening, and seems to
+acknowledge a kind of relationship between master and slave. It must
+diminish the evils of slavery to one, the tyranny of mastership in the
+other, to acknowledge thus a common superior Master on whom they both
+depend.
+
+As each slave passed in review, some questions were asked concerning
+himself, his family, if he had one, or his work; and each received a
+portion of snuff or tobacco, according to his taste. Mr. P. is one of
+the few persons whom I have met conversant among slaves, who appears to
+have made them an object of rational and humane attention. He tells me
+that the creole negroes and mulattoes are far superior in industry to
+the Portuguese and Brazilians; who, from causes not difficult to be
+imagined, are for the most part indolent and ignorant. The negroes and
+mulattoes have strong motives to exertion of every kind, and succeed in
+what they undertake accordingly. They are the best artificers and
+artists. The orchestra of the opera-house is composed of at least
+one-third of mulattoes. All decorative painting, carving, and inlaying
+is done by them; in short, they excel in all ingenious mechanical arts.
+
+In the afternoon I attended Mr. P. to see the negroes receive their
+daily allowance of food. It consisted of farinha, kidney-beans, and
+dried beef, a fixed measure of each to every person. One man asked for
+two portions, on account of the absence of his neighbour, whose wife had
+desired it might be sent to her to make ready for him by the time he
+returned. Some enquiries which Mr. P. made about this person, induced me
+to ask his history. It seems he is a mulatto boatman, the most trusty
+servant on the estate, and rich, because he is industrious enough to
+have earned a good deal of private property, besides doing his duty to
+his master. In his youth, and he is not now old, he had become attached
+to a creole negress, born, like him, on the estate; but he did not marry
+her till he had earned money enough to purchase her, in order that their
+children, if they had any, might be born free. Since that time, he has
+become rich enough to purchase himself, even at the high price which
+such a slave might fetch; but his master will not sell him his freedom,
+his services being too valuable to lose, notwithstanding his promise to
+remain on the estate and work. Unfortunately these people have no
+children; therefore on their death their property, now considerable,
+will revert to the master. Had they children, as the woman is free, they
+might inherit the mother's property; and there is nothing to prevent the
+father's making over all he earns to her. I wish I had the talent of
+novel writing, for the sake of this slave's story; but my writing, like
+my drawing, goes no farther than sketching from nature, and I make
+better artists welcome to use the subject.
+
+The evening was very stormy: deep clouds had covered the Organ
+Mountains; and vivid lightning, sharp rain, and boisterous wind, had
+threatened the fazenda with a night of terror. But it passed away,
+leaving all the grand and gloomy beauty of a departed thunder-storm in a
+mountainous country; when the moon broke through the clouds, and the
+night seemed, from the contrast with the last few hours, even lovelier
+than the last. Then just as the
+
+       "Sable clouds
+    Turned forth their silver lining on the night,
+    And cast a gleam over the tufted grove."
+
+I heard the sounds of music; not such, indeed, as Milton's echo, with
+Henry Lawes's notes, would have made,--of which the night and the scene
+had made me dream; but the voice of the slaves on this their night of
+holiday, beguiling their cares with uncouth airs, played on rude African
+instruments. Taking one of my ship-mates with me, I immediately went to
+the huts of the married slaves, where all merry-makings are held; and
+found parties playing, singing, and dancing to the moonlight. A
+superstitious veneration for that beautiful planet is said to be pretty
+general in savage Africa, as that for the Pleiades was among the
+Indians of Brazil; and probably the slaves, though baptized, dance to
+the moon in memory of their homes. As for the instruments, they are the
+most inartificial things that ever gave out musical sounds; yet they
+have not an unpleasing effect. One is simply composed of a crooked
+stick, a small hollow gourd, and a single string of brass wire. The
+mouth of the gourd must be placed on the naked skin of the side; so that
+the ribs of the player form the sounding-board, and the string is struck
+with a short stick. A second has more the appearance of a guitar: the
+hollow gourd is covered with skin; it has a bridge, and there are two
+strings; it is played with the finger. Another of the same class is
+played with a bow; it has but one string, but is fretted with the
+fingers. All these are called Gourmis. There were, besides, drums made
+of the hollow trunks of trees, four or five feet long, closed at one end
+with wood, and covered with skin at the other. In playing these, the
+drummer lays his instrument on the ground and gets astride on it, when
+he beats time with his hands to his own songs, or the tunes of the
+gourmis. The small marimba has a very sweet tone. On a flat piece of
+sonorous wood a little bridge is fastened; and to this small slips of
+iron, of different lengths, are attached, so as that both ends vibrate
+on the board, one end being broader and more elevated than the other.
+This broad end is played with the thumbs, the instrument being held with
+both hands. All these are tuned in a peculiar manner, and with great
+nicety, especially the marimba[92]; but, as I am no musician, I cannot
+explain their methods.
+
+[Note 92: The simplest of these stringed instruments, and two kinds
+of marimba, have found a place in the Jesuit Bonnanis' _Gabinetto
+Armonica_, printed at Rome, 1722, and dedicated to Holy King David. The
+great marimba consists of a large wooden frame; in which a number of
+hollow canes, about nine inches long, are placed, with the mouth
+upwards; across these open ends are laid pieces of sonorous wood, which
+being struck with another yield a pleasant sound, like the wooden
+armonicas of Malacca. The whole is suspended round the neck, like the
+old man's psaltery in the Dance of Death. Each nation of negroes has its
+own peculiar instrument, which its exiles have introduced here. A king
+of each tribe is annually elected, to whom his people are obedient,
+something in the way of the gipsy monarchy. Before 1806 the election
+took place with great ceremony and feasting, and sometimes fighting, in
+the Campo de Sta. Anna; and the king of the whole was seated during the
+day in the centre of the square under a huge state umbrella. This
+festival is now abolished.]
+
+_4th_.--I was very sorry indeed this morning at sunrise, when I saw the
+boats ready to convey us from N.S. da Luz, where we had enjoyed our
+three days as much as possible; a cheerful party, a kind host, free
+disposal of our time, and no business but such as might beseem the
+individuals of this castle of indolence, "where every man strolled off
+his own glad way."
+
+    "There freedom reigned without the least alloy;
+    Nor gossip's tale, nor ancient maiden's gall,
+    Nor saintly spleen, durst murmur at our joy,
+    And with envenomed tongue our pleasures pall.
+    For why? There was but one great rule for all;
+    To wit, that each should work his own desire."
+
+We returned to the ship by a different way from that by which we went,
+through the archipelago of beautiful islands on the eastern side of the
+harbour; and I had the pleasure to find the Captain really better,
+though still with tender feet.
+
+_6th_.--His Majesty's ship, Slaney, Capt. Stanhope, sailed from Rio.
+
+_7th_.--The Superb arrived from Valparaiso, bringing no news of
+importance. Indeed, if she had, we are scarcely in a state to attend to
+it: we have sat up all night with B., one of our midshipmen, who is
+dangerously ill.
+
+_8th_.--Captain Graham not feeling well enough to leave the ship, I went
+with Captain Prescott of the Aurora, to visit the French Commodore
+Roussin on board the Amazone. I have seldom been better pleased. The
+captains of the other French ships were there, to receive us. All the
+urbanity of Frenchmen, joined with the delightful frankness of the
+profession, assured us we were welcome. The ship itself, every part of
+which we saw, is a model of all that can be done, either in the
+dock-yard at home, or by officers afloat, for comfort, health, and
+cleanliness, and is well as a man of war. Her captain, however, is a
+superior man; and many ships of every and any nation might be visited
+before his equal would be met with. I wish it were possible that we
+should introduce into our ships the oven on the lower deck, which gives
+fresh bread twice a week for the whole ship's company, not only for the
+sake of the bread, but the heating it must air and ventilate the ship.
+
+_9th_.--The Portuguese squadron from Lisbon, with a reinforcement of
+troops, arrived off the harbour. Troops are sent to reinforce the
+garrisons in the forts, at the entrance; and the ships are forbidden to
+enter, but promised victuals and water to carry them to Lisbon. I was on
+shore all day on business, preparatory to our sailing for Valparaiso.
+Captain Graham being too unwell to venture out of the ship himself, he
+therefore undertook to nurse the invalid for me. I returned late. I
+found B. dangerously ill, and Captain Graham very uneasy.
+
+I received many persons on board, and took leave of many.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_10th_.--We sailed at daylight from Rio, in full hope that the cool
+weather we shall find on going round Cape Horn, and the fine climate of
+Chile, will do us all good. I have not been in bed for three nights; my
+invalids are in that state, that night watching is necessary for them.
+
+_13th_.--In addition to our other troubles, the first lieutenant is
+taken dangerously ill: but Captain Graham appears better, though not yet
+able to go on deck.
+
+_16th_.--Yesterday afternoon the mercury in the barometer sunk in a
+very short space of time a whole inch, and we had a gale of wind. The
+cold is sensibly increased. Fahrenheit's thermometer often stood at 92 deg.
+in Rio harbour; it is now 68 deg., and we have many sick. B. is getting
+better.
+
+_17th_.--Wind and sea abated, and the barometer rising once more; the
+mercury stands at 30 inches and two-tenths. I have lain down at four
+o'clock these two mornings, Glennie having kindly relieved my watching
+at that hour. We have removed the dead-lights from the cabin windows.
+
+_18th_.--Every thing better. The young people again at school. Some
+lunars taken. We are in 36 deg. 55' S. latitude, and the thermometer is at
+68 deg..; barometer 30-2.
+
+On the 19_th_ and 20_th_ the mercury in the barometer sunk gradually
+from 30 to 29-02, and rose again as before on the 21st. It blew hard;
+the thermometer fell to 58 deg., in latitude 42 deg. S. There are many
+albatrosses and stormy petrels about the ship.
+
+_22d_.--Latitude 46 deg. 25' S., longitude 52 deg. 40' W. The weather very cold,
+though the thermometer is at 56 deg., barometer 29-08; a very heavy swell.
+Great numbers of the Cape pigeon about the ship.
+
+_24th_.--Latitude 50 deg. 30'; thermometer 44 deg. morning and evening, 47 deg. at
+noon. Seeing two penguins to-day, we supposed some land must be near,
+but found no bottom with 100 fathoms line. The cold weather seems to
+have a good effect on our invalids. The barometer fell suddenly, and a
+strong S.W. wind succeeded, and we were glad to light a fire in the
+cabin.
+
+I am sorry we have passed so far out of sight of the Falkland Islands,
+Sir John Hawkins's maiden land. The idea of seeing a town left standing
+as it was, by all its inhabitants at once, and of the tame animals
+becoming wild, had something romantic. It seemed like a realisation of
+the Arabian tale of the half-marble prince, and in real interest comes
+near the discovery of the lost Greenland settlements. I do not know any
+thing that gratifies the imagination, more than the situations and
+incidents that by bringing distant periods of time together, places
+them, as it were, at once within our own reach. I remember some years
+ago spending a whole day with no companion but my guide at Pompeii, and
+becoming so intimate with the ancients, their ways, and manners, that I
+felt, when I went home to Naples, and its lazaroni, and its English
+travellers, as I suppose, that one of the seven sleepers to have done,
+who went to purchase bread with money five centuries old. As to the
+marble cities of Moorish Africa, when we consider their exposure to the
+sirocco, and read Dolomieu's Experiments on the Atmosphere, during the
+prevalence of that wind at Malta, we shall find but too probable a
+reason for their existence as reported.
+
+_25th_.--Latitude 51 deg. 58' S., longitude 51 deg. W., thermometer 41 deg.. Strong
+south-westerly gales and heavy sea. Just as our friends in England are
+looking forward to spring, its gay light days and early flowers, we are
+sailing towards frozen regions, where avarice' self has been forced to
+give up half-formed settlements by the severity of the climate. We are
+in the midst of a dark boisterous sea; over us, a dense, grey, cold sky.
+The albatross, stormy petrel, and pintado are our companions; yet there
+is a pleasure in stemming the apparently irresistible waves, and in
+wrestling thus with the elements. I forget what writer it is who
+observes, that the sublime and the ridiculous border on each other; I am
+sure they approach very nearly at sea. If I look abroad, I see the
+grandest and most sublime object in nature,--the ocean raging in its
+might, and man, in all his honour, and dignity, and powers of mind and
+body, wrestling with and commanding it: then I look within, round my
+little home in the cabin, and every roll of the ship causes accidents
+irresistibly ludicrous; and in spite of the inconveniences they bring
+with them, one cannot choose but laugh. Sometimes, in spite of all usual
+precautions, of cushions and clothes, the breakfast-table is suddenly
+stripped of half its load, which is lodged in the lee scuppers, whither
+the coal-scuttle and its contents had adjourned the instant before: then
+succeed the school-room distresses of _capsized_ ink-stands, broken
+slates, torn books, and lost places; not to mention the loss of many a
+painful calculation, and other evils exquisite in their kind, but
+abundantly laughable, especially, as it happened just now, if the
+school-master is induced to measure his length on the deck, when in the
+act of reprimanding the carelessness which subjects the slates and books
+to these untoward chances.
+
+_28th_.--Latitude 55 deg. 26' S., longitude 56 deg. 11' W. Captain Graham and
+the first lieutenant still both very ill. At one o'clock this morning
+the mercury in the barometer sunk to 28-09; at seven it rose again to
+29-01. The thermometer is at 38 deg. of Fahrenheit, and we have had squalls
+of snow and sleet, and a heavy sea. There are flocks of very small birds
+about the ship, and we have seen a great many whales.
+
+_30th_.--Latitude 56 deg. 51' S., longitude 59 deg. W.; the thermometer at 30 deg.
+this morning, and 32 deg. at noon. A violent gale of wind from the
+south-west; the only thing like a hard gale since we left England. I had
+breakfast spread on the cabin deck, as it was not possible to secure any
+thing on a table. Clarke, one of the quartermasters, had two ribs broken
+by a fall on deck; and Sinclair, a very strong man, was taken ill after
+being an hour at the wheel. We have made gloves for the men at the wheel
+of canvass, lined with dreadnought; and for the people at night,
+waistbands of canvass, with dreadnought linings. The snow and hail
+squalls are very severe; ice forms in every fold of the sails. This is
+hard upon the men, so soon after leaving Rio in the hottest part of the
+year.
+
+Yesterday morning, about an hour before sunrise, a bright meteor was
+seen in the south-west. It was first taken for the signal lanterns of a
+large ship; then the officer of the watch thought it was a blue light,
+and we made no doubt of its being Sir T. Hardy in the Creole. It
+remained a long time stationary; then it was lost behind the clouds, and
+reappeared between them about 10 deg. high, when it disappeared.[93]
+
+[Note 93: Frezier mentions seeing such a meteor in latitude 57 deg. 30'
+S., and longitude 69 deg. W., in 1712.]
+
+_April 1st_.--Latitude 57 deg. 46'; the weather much more mild and moderate.
+Our young men have caught a number of birds, principally petrels; the P.
+Pelagica, or Mother Cary's chicken, is the least; the P. Pintado is
+gayest on the water; but the P. Glacialis, or fulmer, is most beautiful
+when brought on board: I cannot enough admire the delicate beauty of the
+snow-white plumage, unwet and unsoiled, amid the salt waves. The poets
+have scandalised both the arctic and antarctic regions as
+
+      "A bleak expanse,
+    Shagg'd o'er with wavy rocks, cheerless and _void
+    Of ev'ry life_;"
+
+yet, on Capt. Parry's approach to the north pole, he found the solitude
+teeming with _life_; and the farther south we have sailed, the more
+_life_ we have found on the waters. Yesterday the sea was covered with
+albatrosses, and four kinds of petrel: the penguin comes near us; shoals
+of porpoises are constantly flitting by, and whales for ever rising to
+the surface and blowing alongside of the ship.
+
+With the thermometer not lower than 30 deg., we feel the cold excessive.
+Yesterday morning the main rigging was cased in ice; and the ropes were
+so frozen after the sleet in the night, that it was difficult to work
+them. I never see these things but I think of Thomson's description of
+Sir Hugh Willoughby's attempt to discover the northwest passage, when
+
+      "He with his hapless crew,
+    Each full exerted at his several task,
+    Froze into statues; to the cordage glued
+    The sailor, and the pilot to the helm."
+
+I was glad to-day, when the dead-lights were removed, to see the bright,
+blue, but still boisterous sea, spreading with ample waves curled with
+snowy tops, in the sunshine; it is many days since we have seen the sun,
+and the white birds flying and chattering, or wrestling on the water,
+while the ship, like them, sometimes bravely mounts the very top of the
+wave, and sometimes quietly subsides with it. These are the things we
+behold "who go down to the sea in ships, "and occupy our business in the
+great waters." No one can imagine, who has not felt, the exhilaration
+of spirits produced by a dry clear day of sunshine at sea, after a week
+of rain and snow.
+
+_April 2d_.--A few minutes after noon, an iceberg was reported on the
+lee-bow. As I had never seen one, I went on deck for the first time
+since we left Rio to see it.[94] It appeared like a moderately high
+conical hill, and looked very white upon the bleak grey sky; it might be
+about twelve miles from us. The temperature of the water was 36 deg. of
+Fahrenheit's thermometer, that of the air 38 deg., when the ice was nearest.
+
+[Note 94: We passed another on the 8th, which Glennie calculated to
+be 410 feet high; it was near enough for us to see the waves break on
+it. In conversing on this subject with the officers since,--for at the
+time I was indeed unable to think of it,--I find there is reason to
+think that, instead of an iceberg, we saw land on the 8th. It was seen
+in the latitude and longitude of an island visited by Drake, marked in
+the old charts.]
+
+For some few days the violent motion of the ship, occasioned by the
+heavy sea, has rendered writing and drawing irksome; for, as Lord
+Dorset's song has it,
+
+    "Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,
+    Roll up and down our ships, at sea."
+
+Nevertheless we are not idle. As the cabin has always a good fire in it,
+it is the general rendezvous for invalids; and the midshipmen come in
+and out as they please, as it is the school-room. In one corner Glennie
+has his apparatus for skinning and dissecting the birds we take; and we
+have constantly occasion to admire the beautiful contrivances of nature
+in providing for her creatures. These huge sea-birds, that we find so
+far from any land, have on each side large air-vessels adapted for
+floating them in the air, or on the water; they are placed below the
+wings, and the liver, gizzard, and entrails rest on them. In each
+gizzard of those we have yet opened, there have been two small pebbles,
+of unequal size; and the gizzard is very rough within. We have found
+more vegetable than animal food in their stomachs.
+
+_20th April, 1822_.--To-day we made the coast of Chile. I had continued
+to write my Journal regularly; but though nearly two years are past
+since I wrote it, I cannot bring myself to copy it: from the 3d of April
+it became a register of acute suffering; and, on my part, of alternate
+hopes and fears through days and nights of darkness and storms, which
+aggravated the wretchedness of those wretched hours. On the night of the
+ninth of April, I regularly undressed and went to bed for the first time
+since I left Rio de Janeiro. All was then over, and I slept long and
+rested; but I awoke to the consciousness of being alone, and a widow,
+with half the globe between me and my kindred.
+
+Many things very painful occurred. But I had comfort too. I found
+sympathy and brotherly help from some; and I was not insensible to the
+affectionate behaviour of _my boys_, as the midshipmen were called. And
+I had the comfort to feel that no stranger hand had closed his eyes, or
+smoothed his pillow.
+
+Mr. London and Mr. Kift, the surgeon and assistant surgeon, never left
+the bed-side; and, when my strength failed, my cousin Mr. Glennie, and
+Mr. Blatchly, two passed midshipmen, did all that friends could do.
+
+Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant,--though, from the illness of the first
+lieutenant, the whole business of the ship devolved on him,--found time
+to be near his friend's death-bed; and, whether at noon or midnight, was
+never absent where kindness could be shown.
+
+But what could any human kindness do for me? My comfort must come from
+him who in his own time will "wipe off all tears from our faces."
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL.
+
+
+Before I begin the Journal of my Second Visit to Brazil, from which I
+was absent a year and three days, it will be necessary to give a short
+account of the principal events which took place during that year, and
+which changed the government of the country.
+
+The Prince Regent had in vain sent the most pressing representations in
+favour of Brazil to the Cortes. No notice whatever was taken of his
+despatches; and the government at Lisbon continued to legislate for
+Brazil as if it were a settlement on the coast of savage Africa. The
+ministers who had served Don John had seen enough of the country, during
+their residence in it, to be persuaded that Brazil, united, was at any
+time competent to throw off all subjection to the mother country; the
+object, therefore, became to divide it. Accordingly a scheme for the
+government of Brazil was framed, by which each captaincy should be ruled
+by a junta, whose acts were to be totally independent on each other, and
+only recognisable by the authorities in Portugal; and the Prince was
+ordered home in a peremptory and indecent manner. I have mentioned in my
+Journal the reception those orders had met with, and the resolution His
+Royal Highness had adopted of staying in Brazil. As soon as this
+resolution became known to the provinces, addresses and deputations
+poured in on all sides from every town and captaincy, excepting the city
+of Bahia and the province of Maranliam, which had always had a
+government independent of the rest of Brazil.
+
+In December, 1821, the King had appointed General Madeira governor of
+Bahia and commander of the troops. He entered on his office in February;
+and shortly afterwards the first actual warfare between the Portuguese
+and Brazilians began in the city of St. Salvador, on the 6th of the
+month, when the Brazilians were defeated with some loss.[95] Meantime,
+the province of St. Paul's had made every exertion to raise and arm
+troops; and early in February 1100 men marched towards Rio, to put
+themselves at the disposal of the Prince. Some recruits for the seamen
+and marine corps were raised, and a naval academy established, the
+object of all which was to prevent the carrying away the Prince by
+force. It was now thought advisable that the Prince should visit the two
+most important provinces, St. Paul's and the Mines; and on the 26th or
+27th of March he left Rio for that purpose, leaving the executive
+government in the hands of the minister Jose Bonifacio. His Royal
+Highness was received every where with enthusiasm, until he arrived at
+the last stage, on his way to Villa Rica, the capital of the province of
+Minas Geraes; there he received intelligence of a party raised to oppose
+his entrance by the Juiz de Fora, supported by a captain of one of the
+regiments of Cacadores. He immediately caused some troops to be
+assembled and joined with those which accompanied him, and then remained
+where he was, and sent to the camara of the town, to say he was able to
+enter by force, but had rather come among them as a friend and
+protector. Several messages passed; the conspirators discovered that the
+Prince was, indeed, sufficiently strong to overpower them; and besides,
+they met with no support, as they had hoped, from the magistrates or
+people. His Royal Highness, therefore, entered Villa Rica on the 9th of
+April, and on the magistrates and people attending to compliment him, he
+addressed them thus:--
+
+"Brave Mineros! The shackles of despotism, which began to be loosened on
+the 24th of August in Porto, are now bursting in this province. Be
+free,--be constitutional! Unite with me, and proceed constitutionally. I
+rely entirely on you. Do you depend on me. Let not yourselves be deluded
+by those who seek the ruin of your province, and of the whole nation.
+
+    Viva, The Constitutional King!
+    Viva, Our Religion!
+    Viva, All honest men!
+    Viva, The Mineros!"
+
+[Note 95: On the 25th of May following a solemn mass was performed
+for the souls of those who had fallen on both sides, at the expense of
+the Bahians resident at Rio, in the church of San Francesco de Paulo.
+The cenotaph raised in the church was surrounded by inscriptions, in
+Latin and Portuguese; one of the most striking is, "Eternal glory to
+those who give their blood for their country."
+
+    ("He quha dies for his cuntre
+    Sal herbyrit intil bewyn be," says _Barbour_.)
+
+The day was one of those Brazilian rainy days, when it should seem
+another deluge was coming: but the Prince and Princess were the first at
+the ceremony.]
+
+The next day the Prince held a general court, and remained eleven days
+at Villa Rica. The only punishment inflicted on the conspirators, was
+suspension from their offices; and this royal visit attached this
+province to him, as firmly as those of St. Paul's and Rio.
+
+He returned to Rio de Janeiro on the 25th, where he was received in the
+most flattering manner, and where he became daily more popular; and on
+the 13th of May, King John's birth-day, the senate and people bestowed
+on him the title of Perpetual Defender of Brazil, and thenceforward his
+style was, CONSTITUTIONAL PRINCE REGENT, AND PERPETUAL DEFENDER OF THE
+KINGDOM OF BRAZIL.
+
+The impossibility of continuing united to Portugal had become daily more
+apparent. All the southern provinces were eager to declare their
+independence. Pernambuco and its dependencies had long manifested a
+similar feeling, and the province of Bahia was equally inclined to
+freedom although the city was full of Portuguese troops under Madeira,
+and receiving constant reinforcements and supplies from Lisbon.
+
+The Cortes seemed resolved on bringing matters to extremities; the
+language used in their sessions, with respect to the Prince, was highly
+indecent. Such commanders either by sea or land as obeyed him, unless
+by force, were declared traitors, and he was ordered home anew within
+four months, under pain of submitting to the future disposition of the
+Cortes; and they decreed that the whole means of government should be
+employed to enforce obedience. The Brazilian members did indeed
+remonstrate and protest formally against these proceedings; but they
+were over-ruled; and the spectators in the galleries, on one occasion,
+went so far as to cry, "Down with the Brazilian!"
+
+In the months of June and July, Madeira began to make sallies into the
+country around Bahia, as if it had been possessed by an enemy; and,
+indeed, he quickly found one most formidable. The town of Cachoeira,
+large and populous, and intimately connected with the hardy inhabitants
+of the Certam, soon became the head-quarters of crowds of patriots, who
+assembled there, and resolved to expel the Portuguese from their
+capital.
+
+They began to form regular troops; but though they were abundantly
+supplied with beef and other provisions, they were in want of arms and
+ammunition, and sent to Rio de Janeiro to represent their situation to
+the Prince, and request assistance. They were also in great distress for
+salt to preserve their provisions; and as to accoutrements, raw hides
+supplied the place of almost every thing. An apothecary, in Cachoeira,
+shortly began to boil sea-water in sugar-coppers, to make salt, and soon
+reduced the price of that article, so that the quantity at first sold
+for ten pataccas (eighteen shillings) fell to seven vintems (seven
+pence). The same apothecary, collecting all the salt-petre in the
+neighbourhood, applied himself to making of gunpowder, and a fortunate
+discovery of some hundred barrels smuggled into Itaparica by some
+English, was of essential use to them. But they had no cannon, no lead
+for ball for their muskets and matchlocks; the lead, indeed, and a
+quantity of gun-locks, their friends within the city contrived to
+smuggle to them; and their guns were supplied in the following manner.
+In each engenho, there was an old gun or two for the purpose of
+balancing some part of the machinery; these were at once sent to
+Cachoeira, where, being cleaned and bushed by an ingenious blacksmith,
+they were rendered serviceable; and the patriots ventured to take the
+field against Madeira's parties, even before the arrival of any
+assistance from Rio.
+
+Meantime, news of these transactions arrived at Rio, as well as notice
+of the decrees of the Cortes at Lisbon. The Prince and people no longer
+hesitated. His Royal Highness, together with the senate, issued
+proclamations on the _3d_ of June, calling together a representative and
+legislative assembly, to be composed of members from every province and
+town, to meet in the city of Rio; and on the first of August he
+published that noble manifesto, by which the independence of Brazil was
+openly asserted, the grounds of its claims clearly stated, and the
+people exhorted to let no voice but that of honour be heard among them,
+and to let the shores, from the Amazons to the Plata, resound with no
+cry but that of independence. On the same day, a decree was put forth to
+resist the hostilities of Portugal, containing the following
+articles:--1st, All troops sent by any country whatever, without leave
+obtained from the Prince, shall be accounted enemies: 2d, If they come
+in peace, they shall remain on board their ships, and shall not
+communicate with the shore; but, having received supplies, shall depart:
+3d, That in case of disobedience, they shall be repulsed by force: 4th,
+If they force a landing in any weak point, the inhabitants shall retire
+to the interior, with all their moveables, and the militia shall make
+war as guerillas against the strangers: 5th, That all governors, &c.
+shall fortify their ports, &c.: 6th, Reports to be forthwith made of the
+state of the ports in Brazil, for that end.
+
+This last decree had been anticipated by the Pernambucans, who had
+marched a body of troops to the assistance of the patriots of Cachoeira,
+and a most harassing warfare was commenced against the Portuguese in St.
+Salvador: these last had received a reinforcement of seven hundred men
+on the 8th of August; but they had hardly had time to exult in their
+arrival, when a squadron from Rio Janeiro disembarked at Alagoas 5000
+guns, six field-pieces, 270,000 cartridges, 2000 pikes, 500 carbines,
+500 pistols, 500 cutlasses, and 260 men, chiefly officers, under
+Brigadier-general Lebatu[96], who soon joined the patriots, and fixed
+his head-quarters at Cachoeira, having stretched a line of troops across
+the peninsula on which the town is placed, and thus cut it off from
+provisions on that side; but the sea being still open, supplies were
+abundant, not only from abroad, but from the opposite island of
+Itaparica. That fertile district, however, was soon occupied by the
+Brazilians; and Madeira had only his supplies from seaward, unless he
+could by force dislodge the Brazilians from their quarters on that
+island.
+
+[Note 96: This gentleman was an officer under Napoleon, in the
+Spanish war. For some military irregularity, he was dismissed; but
+pardoned on condition of living in Cayenne, and procuring information
+for the French government. He left that country, however, and settled in
+Brazil; where, with the exception of a short time spent in the service
+of Bolivar, he had lived quietly and respectably till the present
+juncture.]
+
+The cabinet of Rio became sensible that it was necessary to provide a
+naval force, if they wished to preserve the kingdom from the farther
+attacks of Portugal, or to dislodge the enemy from his strong-hold in
+Bahia. Accordingly, the agents of the government in England were
+employed to engage officers and men: some were collected on the spot;
+others, such as Captain David Jewet, from Buenos Ayres and America, were
+instantly employed; and all exertions were made to repair such of the
+ships left behind by King John as would bear the repairs.
+
+At length, on the 12th of October, the birth-day of the Prince, the
+troops being, as usual, assembled in the great square of Santa Anna, and
+a great concourse of people attending, the Prince was suddenly hailed
+Emperor of Brazil, and the kingdom changed in style and title, and all
+dependence on, or connection with Portugal, for ever abjured.
+
+This event seemed to give new spirit to the war of Bahia: as it
+exasperated the Portuguese, so it encouraged the Brazilians, now assured
+of independence. Madeira, resolved, if possible, to gain a communication
+with Nazareth on one of the rivers of the Reconcave, which is most
+fertile, and furnishes abundance of farinha, sent one hundred men of
+the Cacadores, under Colonel Russel, to attempt to gain possession of
+the Ulha do Medo, which commands the Funil, or passage between the
+mainland and Itaparica leading to Nazareth; but their boats grounded,
+and they were obliged to wait for the tide, while the Brazilians, who
+are excellent marksmen, and were concealed among the bushes ashore,
+picked them off at leisure. Another expedition, equally unfortunate, was
+sent with a large gun-vessel to Cachoeira, and arrived off the public
+square, just as it was filled with people proclaiming the Emperor. The
+guns began to play on the mob; but the tide was low, and the shot,
+instead of reaching the people, only struck the quays, and did little
+damage. The Brazilian soldiers now crowded to the wharfs, and thence
+commenced so brisk a fire on the enemy, that the commander of the vessel
+retreated hastily without killing a man, though he lost many. In this
+action Dona Maria de Jesus distinguished herself; for the spirit of
+patriotism had not confined itself to the men.[97]
+
+[Note 97: Of her, see more in the Journal.]
+
+The most considerable expedition sent by Madeira from Bahia was to the
+Punto de Itaparica, the possession of which was becoming daily more
+important, as the provisions in the town diminished. For this purpose
+1500 men were embarked on board the Promtadao, and two other brigs of
+war; they were to land half on one side and half on the other of the
+little peninsula forming the Punto, on which there is a small fort and
+town, which the troops were to attack while the brigs fired on the fort.
+The passage from Bahia to this point is usually of six or seven hours at
+most, allowing for a contrary wind; but these vessels were two days in
+reaching it, by which time the Brazilians had thrown up heaps of sand;
+behind which they lay concealed, and deliberately fired on the
+Lusitanians as they passed, and committed great slaughter, without the
+loss of a man, though they had several wounded. This action, if it may
+be called so, took place on the 2d of January, 1823, and lasted from
+noon till sunset.
+
+Meantime the land side of the city had been harassed by continual
+attacks, and the troops worn out with constant watching; for the
+Brazilians were continually riding about in the woods, and beating
+marches, and causing their trumpets to sound to charge in the night, and
+by the time the enemy could reach the spot they were fled. On the 18th
+of November, 1822, however, Madeira made a sortie, and was met by the
+Brazilians at Piraja, between two and three leagues from the city, when
+a severe action took place, with some loss on both sides, and both
+claimed the victory; but as the Lusitanians retired to the town, and the
+Brazilians took up new positions close to the city gates, the advantage
+must undoubtedly have been on the side of the latter. Meantime the
+scarcity of fresh provisions was such, that all the foreign merchants
+who had families, and who could by any means remove, did so. All the
+country-houses were abandoned, and the people crowded into the town. The
+heaviest contributions were levied on all natives and foreigners, and
+the misery of a siege was coming upon the city.
+
+Rio de Janeiro presented a very different spectacle. The inhabitants
+were decorating their town with triumphal arches for the coronation of
+their Emperor, who, on the 1st of December, was solemnly crowned in the
+chapel of the palace, which serves as the cathedral; and it is no
+exaggeration to say, that the whole of southern Brazil presented one
+scene of joy.
+
+The ministers, no less than the monarch, were beloved. The finances
+began to assume a flourishing aspect: large subscriptions flowed in from
+all quarters for the equipment of a fleet; and an invitation had been
+sent to Lord Cochrane to command it. The Emperor had accepted the most
+moderate income that ever crowned head was contented withal[98], in
+order to spare his people. He visited his dock-yards and arsenals
+himself; attended business of every kind; encouraged improvements in
+every department, and Brazil had begun to assume a most flourishing
+aspect. Such was the state of things when I arrived for the second time
+in Brazil, along with Lord Cochrane, on the 13th of March, 1823.
+
+[Note 98: Less than twenty thousand pounds sterling a year.]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+_March 13th, 1823. On board the Col. Allen, at anchor in Rio de
+Janeiro_.--One of the most windy and rainy days that I ever remember
+seeing in Brazil; so that the beautiful landscape of the harbour is
+entirely lost to the strangers from Chile, and I cannot get ashore
+either to provide lodgings for myself and my invalid[99], or to assist
+my friends in any way. When the officer of the visiting boat came on
+board, the captain of the ship showed him into the cabin, and left him
+with me. I found he spoke English, and immediately began to enquire of
+him concerning the news of Rio. And first he mentioned the coronation of
+the Emperor, and then the war at Bahia; on which I questioned him very
+closely, on the ground of having formerly visited the place. It appears
+that last night only His Imperial Majesty's ships Una[)o], (now Piranga,)
+Nitherohy, and Liberal, with a fleet of transports, had returned from
+Alagoas, where they had landed reinforcements for General Labatu; whose
+head-quarters are at Cachoeira, and who is investing the city of Bahia
+closely. General Madeira has a strong force of Portuguese soldiers,
+besides 2000 seamen which occasionally do duty ashore, and a
+considerable naval force.[100] But it appears, that the seamen are on
+the point of mutining for want of pay. Having told me so much, the
+officer began to question me in my turn,--Did I come from Chile? Did I
+know Lord Cochrane? was he coming to Rio? for all eyes were turned
+towards him. When he found that His Lordship was actually on board, he
+flew to his cabin door, and entreated to kiss his hands; then snatched
+his hat, and calling to the captain to do as he would, and anchor where
+he pleased without ceremony, jumped over the side to be the first, if
+possible, to convey to the Emperor the joyful intelligence. Nearly the
+same scene was acted over when Perez, the port-captain, came on board;
+and in a few minutes Captain Garca[)o] of the Liberal came to pay his
+respects, and shortly afterwards Captain Taylor of the Nitherohy, from
+whom we learned something more of the state of His Imperial Majesty's
+fleet. The Pedro Primeiro, formerly the Martim Freitas, had been left by
+the King in want of thorough repair; this she has had, and came out of
+dock yesterday; she is said to sail well. The Caroline is a fine
+frigate, but not commissioned, for want of men. The Una[)o] is a very fine
+ship, wants copper, and is commanded by Captain Jewitt. The Nitherohy is
+a corvette, well found, and in good repair, but a heavy sailer; and the
+Maria da Gloria, a fine corvette, is commanded by a French officer,
+Captain Beaurepair. The great difficulty the navy here has to dread is
+the want of men.[101] Portuguese sailors are worse than none; few
+Brazilians are sailors at all, and French, English, and Americans are
+very scarce. The Emperor is fond of the navy, and very active in looking
+into every department. He is often in the dock-yards by daylight, and
+the Empress generally accompanies him.
+
+[Note 99: My cousin Mr. Glennie invalided, from the Doris, having
+broken a blood-vessel.]
+
+[Note 100: Don Joam Sesto, 80 guns.--Constituicam, 56.--Corvette, 10
+de Fevreiro, 29.--Active, 22.--Calypso, 22.--Regeneraca[)o], 22.--A
+store-ship, 28.--Brig Audaz, 18.--Promptida[)o], 16.--Smack Emilia,
+8.--Conceicam, 8.
+
+_Armed Merchant Vessels_.--San Domingo, 20 guns.--Restauracam, 24.--San
+Gualter, 26.--Bisarra, 18.]
+
+[Note 101: The pay of seamen is but scanty. The advertisement of
+February for seamen to man the Pedro Primeiro is as follows:--To
+able-bodied seamen 8 mil. bounty; 4 mil. 800 rees to ordinary seamen.
+Monthly pay, 8 mil. to able-bodied seamen, 6mil. 500 rees to ordinary, 4
+mil. 800 rees to others, and 3 mil. to landsmen.--This very day, 13th of
+March, the able seamen's monthly pay was raised to 10 mil.; that of
+ordinaries to 8 mil.
+
+Shortly afterwards a farther advance was made, and petty officers
+received extra pay, which they had not hitherto done. The bounty was
+also increased.
+
+The pay in Bellard's foreign regiment, 8 mil. bounty, 80 rees per day,
+40 rees stranger money, (both together 6_d_. sterling,) 24 oz. bread, 1
+lb. meat, and clothing.]
+
+Their Majesties appear by all accounts to be highly popular. Their
+youth, their spirit, the singular situation in which they are placed,
+are all interesting. It is seldom that a hereditary prince, ventures to
+stand forth in the cause of freedom or independence; and a son of the
+house of Braganza, and a daughter of that of Austria, leading the way to
+the independence of this great empire, cannot but excite the love as
+well as the admiration of their fortunate subjects.
+
+The weather cleared up in the afternoon, and I went ashore to see if I
+could find any of my old friends, or hear any news; but all the English
+were gone to their country-houses, and the opera, the proper place for
+gossip, is shut, because it is Lent; so I returned to the brig, and
+found Lord Cochrane ready to go ashore to wait on the Emperor, who had
+come in from San Cristova[)o] to meet him at the palace in town. His
+Lordship and Captain Crosbie, who went with him, did not return till
+late, but then well pleased with their reception.
+
+_March 14th_.--Another day of such heavy rain, that I have no chance of
+landing my invalid. Mr. May came on board, and told me I might have Sir
+T. Hardy's house for a few days, till I can get one for myself. He also
+gives us good accounts of the government, its finances, &c.
+
+An embargo has been laid on all vessels to-day, to prevent the news of
+Lord Cochrane's arrival from reaching Bahia.
+
+_15th_.--I went early ashore to prepare for leaving the brig. I observed
+two of the arches, under which the Emperor had passed on the day of
+coronation, designed in extremely good taste, and well executed. They
+are of course only temporary. Some more solid works have been executed,
+since I last saw Rio; new fountains opened, aqueducts repaired, all the
+forts and other public works visibly improved, and the streets new
+paved. There is besides every where an air of business, I carried
+Glennie ashore in the afternoon, and was foolish enough to feel very
+sorry to leave my fellow-passengers, and still more foolish to be vexed
+at the perfect indifference with which they saw me go: both perhaps
+natural enough. I, am once more without any one to lean to, and alone in
+the world with my melancholy charge; they, have business and pleasure
+before them.
+
+It was a fine evening, and the little voyage in the boat to Botafogo
+seemed to do Glennie good; but we had the mortification to find that
+neither the provisions I had bought in the town had arrived, nor the
+servant one of my friends had promised to procure me. So we were alone
+and supperless,--but, thank God, not helpless. I have learned so much in
+my wanderings as not to be dependent; and so, after a time, I had from
+the huckster's shop in the neighbourhood a tolerable tea to give my
+invalid, and sent him to bed in pretty good spirits, and took time
+afterwards to be pretty miserable myself.
+
+_March 20th_.--These past days I have employed in looking about for a
+house, and have succeeded, in receiving and returning the visits of my
+old acquaintance, and in being very unwell.
+
+I hear there is nothing yet settled about Lord Cochrane's command. The
+world says that he was asked to serve under two Portuguese admirals and
+for Portuguese pay. Of course, these are terms he could never accept. I
+have not seen him, so am not sure about this. I suppose, however, it is
+true; or he would not still be living on board that dirty little brig in
+which we arrived.
+
+_21st_.--Whatever difficulties were in the way of Lord Cochrane's
+command, they are over. I have a note from him announcing that he hoists
+his flag at four o'clock this afternoon, on board the Pedro
+Primeiro.[102]
+
+[Note 102: Much was said among the English as well as Brazilians of
+His Lordship's high terms. I have reason to think (not from his
+information) that his pay and that of the English officers is only equal
+to that of England, rank for rank.]
+
+_22d_.--Captain Bourchier of His Majesty's ship Beaver kindly lent me
+his boat to-day, to convey me with my cousin and my goods to my
+cottage on the Gloria hill, close to Mr. May's, and not very far from
+the house the government has given as a temporary residence to Lord
+Cochrane. It is pleasant to me on many accounts: it is cool, and there
+is a shady walk for the sick. It is almost surrounded by the sea, which
+breaks against the wall; and not being near any road, we shall be
+perfectly quiet here.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+_Friday, 28th_.--This has been a busy week, both to me and to my
+friends, who are hurrying every thing to get to sea as quickly as
+possible; as it is of the utmost consequence to free Bahia of the enemy.
+
+_Saturday, 29th_.--His Majesty's ship Tartar, Captain Brown, arrived
+to-day from England, bringing no good news of any kind. In the first
+place, Lord Cochrane suffers extreme distress on learning that Lady
+Cochrane and her infant daughter are on their way to Chile, so that they
+will have to perform the rough passage round Cape Horn twice before he
+sees them;--and in the next, Captain Brown gives a most formidable
+account of a Portuguese fleet bound for Bahia, which he met on this side
+of the line. I trust he is mistaken in the last, and I try to comfort
+Lord Cochrane as to the first piece of intelligence, by suggestions, of
+the probability, if not certainty, that the ship Lady Cochrane will sail
+in, must touch in this port; however, his natural anxiety is not to be
+overcome.
+
+_Monday, March 31st_.--Yesterday the Pedro Primeiro dropped down the
+harbour, as far as Boa Viage, and to-day I went with Lord Cochrane on
+board of her. We found that the Emperor and Empress had been on board at
+daylight. On some of the Portuguese officers complaining that the
+English sailors had been drunk the day before, the Empress said, "Oh,
+'tis the custom of the North, where brave men come from. The sailors are
+under my protection; I spread my mantle over them." The Pedro Primeiro
+is a fine two-decker, without a poop. She has a most beautiful gun-deck;
+but I could not see her to advantage, as she was still taking in stores,
+and receiving men. Her cabins are beautifully fitted up with handsome
+wood and green morocco cushions, &c.; and I am told the Emperor takes
+great pride in her. Captain Crosbie commands her; and three lieutenants
+who came with us from Chile are appointed to her.
+
+_April 1st_.--I had expected the Admiral to breakfast with me; but, to
+my great disappointment, I saw the ship get under weigh, and sail. I
+afterwards learned that the Emperor and Empress were on board, and
+accompanied him out of the harbour as far as the light-house, so that he
+could not leave them. The morning was dull and grey when the Pedro
+Primeiro, the Maria da Gloria, the Una[)o], and the Liberal got under
+weigh; but just as the little squadron came abreast of Santa Cruz, and
+the fort began to salute, the sun broke from behind a cloud, and a
+bright yellow flood of light descended behind the ships to the sea,
+where they seemed to swim in a sea of glory; and that was the last sight
+I had of my kind friend.
+
+_10th_.--Nothing of any note or variety has taken place during these ten
+days. Glennie is gaining ground: I write and read, and attend to him.
+The Nitherohy sails to-morrow to join Lord Cochrane off Bahia, with
+three mortars on board, two 10, and one 13-inch. I find, with surprise,
+that the cartridges are still made up here in canvass, not flannel; and
+I fear that the ships are not so well found as I wish them: great part
+of the canvass and cordage have been seventeen years in store, and, I
+should fear, partly rotten. But all this is nothing to the evil
+attending the having Portuguese among the crews. 'Tis not natural they
+should fight against their countrymen.
+
+I have had the pleasure of reading Peveril of the Peak within these few
+days. 'Tis a sort of historical portrait, like Kenilworth, where the
+Duke of Buckingham, he who
+
+      "In one revolving moon
+    Was hero, fiddler, statesman, and buffoon,"
+
+is the principal figure: Charles II. and the rest of the court serve for
+the black boy and parrot in costume; while the story of Peveril is
+nothing more than the carved-work frieze of the very pleasant apartment
+he has been placed in.
+
+_14th_.--The Fly sloop of war, and the packet from England, came in and
+brought the news of the war between France and Spain. This news is, of
+course, interesting here, as Portugal is considered to be implicated in
+the disputes in Europe; and then, the part England may take, and how
+that may affect this country, is a subject of anxious speculation. The
+more domestic news is not quite agreeable. The Imperial General Lecor,
+in the south, has suffered some loss in an action with the Portuguese:
+however, it is not considerable enough to give any serious uneasiness.
+The same vessel that brought the news from Lecor, also gives
+intelligence that the head of the Buenos Ayrian government, Rodriguez,
+having taken the field against some Indian tribes, who have lately
+committed great ravages in his territories, an attempt was made by one
+of the ex-chiefs to subvert his government; happily, without success. I
+say happily, because I am convinced that every week and month passed
+without change, is of infinite consequence both to the present and
+future wellbeing of the Spanish colonies. While they had still to
+struggle for their independence, while they had to amend the abuses of
+their old government, frequent changes were unavoidable, but natural;
+but now that they are independent, and that they have constitutions,
+which, if not perfect, contain the principles of freedom and greatness,
+those principles should have time and peace to grow, and to suit
+themselves to the genius of the people.
+
+_15th_.--Glennie has been gaining so much strength lately, that he has
+determined on joining the Commodore at Bahia; and this day he left me,
+to sail in His Majesty's ship Beaver.
+
+After having had him to attend to for six months, and being used to
+constant intercourse with an intelligent inmate, I feel so very lonely,
+that I believe I must leave off some of my sedentary habits, and visit a
+little among my neighbours.
+
+_25th_.--A French brig of war came in to-day from Bahia. We learn that
+the ships seen by the Tartar were only a frigate, with a convoy of
+transports, on board of which was a reinforcement for Madeira of 1500
+men. They will but increase the distress of the garrison, which is
+represented as very great, as they have brought no provisions.
+
+_28th_.--I spent the day with Miss Hayne, and accompanied her in the
+evening to compliment Dona Ana, the wife of Senhor Luis Jose de Carvalho
+e Mello, on her birth-day. The family were at their country-house at
+Botafogo; and a most excellent house it is, very handsomely built and
+richly furnished. The walls are decorated with French papers in
+compartments, with gold mouldings, and every thing corresponds. But the
+best decoration, was this night, the presence of a number of the
+handsomest women I have seen in Brazil, most of them sisters, or
+cousins, or nieces of the lady of the house, whose mother, the Baronesa
+de Campos, may boast of one of the finest families in the world. The
+daughter of the house, Dona Carlota, is distinguished here by talent and
+cultivation beyond her fellows. She speaks and writes French well, and
+has made no small progress in English. She knows the literature of her
+own country, draws correctly, sings with taste, and dances gracefully.
+Several of her cousins and aunts speak French fluently; so that I had
+the pleasure of conversing freely with them, and received a good deal of
+information on subjects that only women attend to. Soon after all the
+company was assembled, the ladies sitting all together in a formal
+circle, the gentlemen walking about generally in other rooms, the
+ceremony of tea-drinking commenced, and was conducted pretty much as in
+England; the servants handing round tea, coffee, and cakes, on broad
+silver salvers. But we all sat and took our refreshments at leisure,
+instead of standing with cups in our hands, and elbowing our way through
+crowds of persons, who all look as if they were bound on some particular
+business, and could scarcely afford time to recognise their passing
+acquaintance. We then adjourned to the music-room, where the
+music-master[103] attended to accompany the ladies, many of whom sang
+extremely well; but when it came to Dona Rosa's turn, I was ready to
+exclaim with Comus--
+
+    "Can any mortal mixture of earth's mould
+    Breathe such divine enchanting ravishment?"
+
+[Note 103: This man is brother to the instructor of Catalani.]
+
+The music ended, and who was not sorry at its conclusion? the dancing
+commenced, and then those who like myself were not dancers sat by to
+gossip. An Englishman who has been in this country many years, seeing me
+full of admiration of the beautiful and gay creatures before me, began
+to give me such a picture of the private morals in Brazil, as was
+beginning to darken their countenances and to dim their eyes, when
+luckily he went a step too far, and offered to wager, (the true English
+way of affirming,) that there were in that room not less than ten
+ladies, each provided with her note to slip into the hand of her
+gallant, and that the married and unmarried were alike; and referred me
+to my friend M----, who has long been here, and knows the people well.
+He looked slowly round the room, and I began to fear,--but he said, "No,
+not here; though I do not deny that such things are done in Rio. But,
+Mrs. G., do not you know, as well as I, that in all great cities, in
+your country and in mine as well as in this, a certain portion of every
+class of society is less moral than the rest? In some countries
+immorality is more refined indeed; and when manners lose their
+grossness, they are stripped apparently of half their vice. But suppose
+the fact, that women, even the unmarried, are less pure here than in
+Europe, remember that with us, besides the mother, there is the nurse of
+the family, or the governess, or even the waiting-maid of every young
+woman, who is supposed to be well brought up, and of good character and
+morals. These are all checks on conduct, and form a guardianship only
+inferior to a mother's. But here the servants are slaves; therefore
+naturally the enemies of their masters, and ready and willing to deceive
+them, by assisting in the corruption of their families." Here then is
+another curse of slavery; and this view of the subject has opened my
+eyes on many points, on which I have hitherto been wondering ignorantly.
+
+There were several very pleasant French naval officers here to-night,
+and a few, very few English. I conversed with some sensible and
+well-bred Brazilians, so that I was scarcely aware of the lateness of
+the hour, when I left my younger friends dancing at midnight.
+
+While at the ball, the tragic story of two lovely girls was told me.
+When mere children, they had accompanied their mother to some gala, and
+on returning at night, just as the mother advanced from the carriage,
+she was shot from the veranda of her own house. All search for the
+murderer was vain: but conjecture points to two possible causes of the
+crime. One, the jealousy of a woman, who it seems had been injured, and
+who hoped to succeed her rival as the wife of the man she loved; but he
+has not married again. Another conjecture is, that she was acquainted
+with some political secrets, and that fear caused her death. However it
+was, the girls have ever since lived with their grandmother, who cannot
+sleep if they are not both in the room with her. The family attachments
+here are quite beautiful; they are as close and as intimate as those of
+clanship in Scotland: but they have their inconveniences, in the
+constant intermarriages between near relations, as uncles with their
+nieces, aunts with their nephews, &c.; so that marriages, instead of
+widening connections, diffusing property, and producing more general
+relations in the country, seems to narrow all these, to hoard wealth,
+and to withdraw all the affections into too close and selfish a circle.
+
+_30th_.--I went early to town, and found that the English packet had
+arrived. She fell in with Lord Cochrane's squadron near Bahia, so that
+His Lordship must be there long ere this time; she brings reports that
+the royalist party are becoming too strong for the Cortes at Lisbon.
+
+I spent the day with Madame do Rio Seco. Her house is really a
+magnificent one; it has its ball-room, and its music-room, its grotto
+and fountains, besides extremely handsome apartments of every kind, both
+for family and public use, with rather more china and French clocks than
+we should think of displaying, but which do not assort ill with the
+silken hangings and gilt mouldings of the rooms.
+
+The dinner was small, as we were only three persons, but excellently
+dressed. Soup of wild-fowl, a variety of small birds, and sweetmeats of
+the country, were rarities to me: the rest of the dinner might have been
+English or French; it was served in plate. I heard a great many
+anecdotes to-day of a great many persons of all degrees, for which M.
+Dutems would have given any price to enrich the _souvenirs_ of the
+_voyageur qui se repose_ withal, but which I will not write, because I
+think it neither honest nor womanly to take the protection of the laws
+and the feelings of a foreign country, and--record the foibles of its
+inhabitants so as to give others the opportunity of laughing at them. We
+know well enough the weak parts of human nature: if they are treated
+tenderly, they may mend. Vice indeed may require the lash, but weakness
+and folly should meet with indulgence. In a society rising like this, I
+am persuaded that men may be flattered into virtue. If a general calls
+his soldiers brave before the battle, it becomes a point of honour to
+prove so. And were it in my power, I had rather persuade the Brazilians
+that they have every virtue under heaven, than make them so familiar
+with the least of their failings, as to lose the shame of it.
+
+_May 1st_.--I have this day seen the Val Longo; it is the slave-market
+of Rio. Almost every house in this very long street is a depot for
+slaves. On passing by the doors this evening, I saw in most of them long
+benches placed near the walls, on which rows of young creatures were
+sitting, their heads shaved, their bodies emaciated, and the marks of
+recent itch upon their skins. In some places the poor creatures were
+lying on mats, evidently too sick to sit up. At one house the half-doors
+were shut, and a group of boys and girls, apparently not above fifteen
+years old, and some much under, were leaning over the hatches, and
+gazing into the street with wondering faces. They were evidently quite
+new negroes. As I approached them, it appears that something about me
+attracted their attention; they touched one another, to be sure that all
+saw me, and then chattered in their own African dialect with great
+eagerness. I went and stood near them, and though certainly more
+disposed to weep, I forced myself to smile to them, and look cheerfully,
+and kissed my hand to them, with all which they seemed delighted, and
+jumped about and danced, as if returning my civilities. Poor things! I
+would not, if I could, shorten their moments of glee, by awakening them
+to a sense of the sad things of slavery; but, if I could, I would appeal
+to their masters, to those who buy, and to those who sell, and implore
+them to think of the evils slavery brings, not only to the negroes but
+to themselves, not only to themselves but to their families and their
+posterity.
+
+After all, slaves are the worst and most expensive servants; and one
+proof of it is this, I think. The small patch that each is allowed to
+cultivate for his own use on many estates generally yields at least
+twice as much in proportion as the land of the master, though fewer
+hours of labour are bestowed upon it.[104] I have hitherto endeavoured,
+without success, to procure a correct statement of the number of slaves
+imported into all Brazil. I fear, indeed, it will be hardly possible for
+me to do so, on account of the distance of some of the ports; but I will
+not rest till I procure at least a statement of the number entered at
+the custom-house here during the last two years. The number of ships
+from Africa that I see constantly entering the harbour, and the
+multitudes that throng the slave-houses in this street, convince me that
+the importation must be very great. The ordinary proportion of deaths on
+the passage is, I am told, about one in five.
+
+[Note 104: Since I returned to England, I have seen the account of
+the proceedings of Joshua Steele in Barbadoes. I need not add one word
+on this part of the subject; but I present the reader with the two
+following statements of custom-house entries at Rio for the years 1821
+and 1822.
+
+1821.
+
+   _January_        |    _April_        |  _October_     |
+Muzambique  483     | Angola     430    | Angola    452  |
+Muzambique  337     | Quilumana  280    | Angola    375  |
+Amhuebe     352     | Cabinda    287    | Benguela  510  |
+Cabinda     348     | Cabinda    451    |          ----  |
+Luanda      549     |           ----    |          1337  |
+Benuela     396     |           1448    |          ----  |
+           ----     |           ----    |                |
+           2914     |                   |                |
+                    |      _May_        |    _November_  |
+           ----     |                   |                |
+   _February_       | Angola  342       | Ambuiz  220    |
+Cabinda     193     | Angola  361       | Benguela 390   | ABSTRACT
+Cabinda     342     | Angola  231       | Angola  579    | OF 1821
+Cabinda     514     | Quilumana  225    | Angola  544    | January   2914
+Muzambique  277     | Muzambique  122   | Angola  388    | February  1926
+Muzambique  600     |         ----      | Quilumana 446  | March     3170
+          ----      |         1281      |       ----     | April     1448
+          1926      |         ----      |       2567     | May       1281
+          ----      |      _June_       |       ----     | June       680
+      _March_       | Angola   680      |                | August    2578
+Quilumana   311     |                   |    _December_  | September  685
+Quilumana   385     |      _August_     | Angola   516   | October   1337
+Quilumana   342     | Luanda    514     | Angola   523   | November  2567
+Quilumana   257     | Luanda    460     | Angola   309   | December  2634
+Quilumana   260     | Luanda    734     | Muzambique 394 |          -----
+Quilumana   291     | Luanda    304     | Muzambique 330 |         21,199
+Quilumana   287     | Luanda    227     | Cabinda  562   |         ------
+Angola      345     | Benguela  339     |          ----  |
+Angola      433     |       ----        |          2634  |
+Angola      259     |       2578        |          ----  |
+           ----     |       ----        |                |
+           3170     |                   |                |
+           ----     |     _September_   |                |
+                    | Angola    685     |                |
+
+                         1822
+   _January_     |     _April_      |  _September_    |
+ Cabinda    744  | Quilumana  323   | Angola    572   |
+ Cabinda    417  | Quilumana  203   | Angola    534   |
+ Cabinda    459  | Angola     519   | Cabinda   466   |
+ Cabinda    144  | Angola     418   | Benguela  524   |
+ Muzambique 305  | Cabinda    291   | Benguela  298   |
+ Muzambique 278  | Cabinda    377   |          ----   |
+           ----  |           ----   |          2394   |
+           2347  |           2181   |          ----   |
+           ----  |           ----   |                 |
+
+   _February_    |     _May_        |    _October_    |
+Muzambique  421  | Angola     398   | Luanda    467   |
+Muzambique  419  | Benguela   388   | Benguela  428   |
+Muzambique  399  |           ----   | Cabinda   434   | ABSTRACT OF 1822.
+Muzambique  520  |            786   | Cabinda   337   |
+Angola      406  |           ----   |          ----   | January    2347
+Angola      400  |                  |          1666   | February   4273
+Angola      406  |     _June_       |          ----   | March      4401
+Quilumana   436  | Cabinda    432   |                 | April      2131
+Quilumana   446  | Cabinda    533   |   _November_    | May         786
+Benguela    420  | Angola     302   | Cabinda   417   | June       2418
+           ----  | Angola     761   | Cabinda   499   | July       1118
+           4273  | Benguela   390   | Luanda    561   | September  2394
+           ----  |           ----   | Benguela  425   | October    1666
+                 |          2418    |          ----   | November   1902
+    _March_      |          ----    |          1902   | December   1498
+Cabinda    667   |                  |                 |          ------
+Cabinda    400   |      _July_      |   _December_    |          24,934
+Quilumana  504   | Cabinda    427   | Luanda    514   |          ------
+Quilumana  487   | Angola     691   | Cabinda   534   |
+Quilumana  406   |           ----   | Quilumana 450   |
+Muzambique 452   |           1118   |          ----   |
+Muzambique 455   |           ----   |          1498   |
+Angola     305   |                  |          ----   |
+Angola     354   |                  |                 |
+Angola     371   |                  |                 |
+          ----   |                  |                 |
+          4401   |                  |                 |
+          ----   |                  |                 |
+
+]
+
+_May 3d_.--Early this morning the French naval captain, La Susse, called
+on me to take me in his boat to town, for the purpose of going to Senhor
+Luis Jose's house in the Rua do Ouvidor, to see the Emperor go in state
+to the opening of the Constituent and Legislative Assembly. All the
+great officers of state, all the gentlemen of the household, most of the
+nobility, and several regiments accompanied him. First marched the
+soldiers, then the carriages of the nobility and other persons having
+the entree, nobody driving more than a pair, such being the express
+order of the Emperor, in order that the rich might not mortify the poor;
+then the royal carriages, containing the household, the ladies of
+honour, and the young Princess Dona Maria da Gloria; the Emperor and
+Empress followed in a state-coach with eight mules. The crown was on the
+front seat. The Emperor wore the great cape of state, of yellow
+feathers, over his green robes. The Empress, much wrapped up on account
+of a recent indisposition, was seated by him, and the procession was
+closed by more troops.
+
+The carriages displayed to-day would form a curious collection for a
+museum in London or Paris. Some were the indescribable sort of caleche
+used here; and in the middle of these was a very gay pea-green and
+silver chariot, evidently built in Europe, very light, with silver
+ornaments, silver fellies to the wheels, silver where any kind of metal
+could be used, and beautiful embossed silver plates on the harness of
+the mules. Many other gala carriages seemed as if they had been built in
+the age of Louis XIV. Such things! mounted on horizontal leathern bands,
+and all other kind of savage hangings; besides paint and gilding, and,
+by-the-bye, some very handsome silver and silver gilt harnesses. Then
+there were splendid liveries, and all manner of gaudiness, not without
+some taste.
+
+The houses were hung with all the damask and satin of every colour that
+they could supply; and the balconies stored with ladies, whose bright
+eyes rain influence, dressed in gala dresses, with feathers and diamonds
+in profusion; and as the royal carriages passed, we waved our
+handkerchiefs, and scattered flowers on their heads.
+
+When the procession had passed, I found it was expected that we should
+await its return, which I was well pleased to do. My young friend Dona
+Carlota improves on acquaintance; and as I begin to venture to speak
+Portuguese, I am becoming intimate with the elder part of the family. I
+was taken into the study, and for the first time saw a Brazilian private
+gentleman's library. As he is a judge, of course the greater part is
+law; but there are history and general literature, chiefly French, and
+some English books. I was introduced to several Portuguese authors; and
+Don Carlota, who reads remarkably well, did me the favour to read some
+of Diniz's fine verses to me, and to lend me his works. We then returned
+to our station at the window, and saw the procession return in the order
+in which it came, when our pleasant party dispersed.
+
+Yesterday, the assembly having finished its preliminary sittings, sent a
+deputation, headed by Jose Bonifacio, to His Imperial Majesty, to
+entreat that he would honour the assembly with his presence at their
+first sitting as a legislative body, and he was pleased to name half
+past eleven o'clock to-day for that purpose.[105]
+
+[Note 105: Various ordinances of the 3d and 19th June and the 3d of
+August, 1822, and of the 20th and 22d February, 1823, had been published
+for the assembling or regulating the election of deputies from the
+provinces of Brazil, to form a constituent assembly. Early in April,
+1823, the greater number of those who could be collected in the present
+state of the country had arrived in the capital. On the 14th of that
+month, the Emperor fixed their first meeting for the 17th. Accordingly
+on the 17th of April, 1823, the deputies, in number 52, entered their
+house of assembly at nine o'clock in the morning, and proceeded to elect
+a temporary president and secretary, when the Right Reverend Don Jose
+Caetano da Silva Coutinho, bishop and grand chaplain, was elected
+president, and Manoel Jose de Sousa Franca secretary.
+
+The first act was to name two committees; one of five members, to hold a
+scrutiny on the election of the deputies generally; and the other of
+three, to examine those of the five. This necessary business, and some
+consequent discussion, occupied the whole of the first and greater part
+of the second session; towards the end of the latter, the form of the
+oath to be administered to the members, was decided:--
+
+"I swear to fulfil, faithfully and truly, the obligations of deputy to
+the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly of Brazil, convoked in
+order to frame a political constitution for the empire of Brazil, and to
+make indispensable and urgent reforms. Maintaining always the Roman
+Catholic and Apostolic religion, and the integrity and independence of
+the empire; without admitting any other nation whatever to any bond of
+union or federation which might oppose that independence. Maintaining
+also the constitutional empire, and the dynasty of the Lord Don Peter,
+our first Emperor, and his issue."
+
+The third session was occupied in regulating the forms of the assembly.
+The throne to be placed at one end of the hall; on the first step on the
+right-hand side, the President shall have his chair when the Emperor
+presides, otherwise the chair to be in front of the throne, with a small
+table, separate from the table of the members, and on it the Gospel, a
+copy of the constitution, and a list of the members. When the Emperor
+opens the assembly, his great officers may accompany him, and the
+ministers may sit on his right; proper places are appointed for
+ambassadors, and a gallery is open to strangers. Some other forms as to
+the reception of the Emperor, or a regent, or a minister commissioned by
+him, were also settled; and then the 1st of May was fixed on for the
+whole body of the members to go to the chapel royal, and after hearing
+the mass of the Holy Ghost, to take their oaths. The 2d was appointed
+for a deputation to wait on the Emperor, and inform him that they were
+ready to proceed on the 3d, and with his assistance to open the
+important business on which they had met.]
+
+This morning, therefore, the people of Rio de Janeiro had strewed the
+way with evergreens, sweet herbs, and flowers, from the bridge without
+the town by the street of St. Peter's, the Campo de Santa Anna, now
+Praca da Acclamaca[)o], the Theatre Square, and the streets Do Ouvidor and
+Direita to the palace; troops lined the whole space; the houses were
+decorated, and the bands of the different regiments relieved each other
+as their Imperial Majesties passed. I observe the Brazilians never say
+_the_ Emperor, but _our_ Emperor, _our_ Empress; and seldom name either,
+without some epithet of affection.
+
+In the House of Assembly, a throne had been prepared for the Emperor,
+and on his right hand a tribune for the Empress, the Princess, and their
+ladies. As soon as it was known that the Imperial party had arrived, a
+deputation from the assembly went to the door of the house to meet them,
+and conducted the Emperor, with his crown[106] on his head, to the
+throne; the Empress, Princess, and ladies, being at the same time placed
+in the tribune.
+
+[Note 106: The crown is of a purple velvet, enriched with diamonds.
+There was some mistake or misunderstanding about the fact of wearing the
+crown at the opening of the assembly. As the crown is only a ceremonial
+badge of dignity, it should have been worn during the ceremony; but
+owing to the mistake alluded to, it was not.]
+
+The Emperor having deposited the crown and sceptre with the proper
+officer, and received the oaths of several of the deputies, spoke as
+follows; and it was remarked, that so far from the speech having the air
+of a thing read from a paper or studied, that it was spoken as freely as
+if it was the spontaneous effusion of the moment, and excited a feeling
+as free in his favour.
+
+"This is the greatest day that Brazil has ever seen; a day on which, for
+the first time, it may show that it is an empire, and a free empire. How
+great is my delight, to behold real representatives from almost every
+one of its provinces, consulting together on its true interests, and on
+these founding a just and liberal constitution to govern them! We ought
+long since to have enjoyed a national representation. But either the
+nation did not in time perceive its real interests, or, perceiving them,
+was unable to declare them, on account of the forces and ascendancy of
+the Portuguese party; which, perceiving clearly to what a degree of
+weakness, littleness, and poverty, Portugal was reduced, and to how low
+a state it had fallen, would never consent (notwithstanding their
+proclamation of liberty, fearing a separation,) that the people of
+Brazil should enjoy a representation equal to what they themselves then
+possessed. They had miscalculated their plans for conquest, and from
+that miscalculation arises our good fortune.
+
+"Brazil, which for upwards of three hundred years had borne the
+degrading name of a colony, and had suffered all the evils arising from
+the destructive system then pursued, exulted with pleasure when my Lord
+Don John VI., King of Portugal and Algarve, my august father, raised it
+to the dignity of a kingdom, by his decree of the 16th of December,
+1815; but Portugal burned with rage, and trembled with fear. The delight
+which the inhabitants of this vast continent displayed on the occasion
+was unbounded; but the politic measure was not followed up, as it ought
+to have been, by another, that is, by the convocation of an assembly to
+organise the new kingdom.
+
+"Brazil, always frank in her mode of proceeding, and mortified at having
+borne the yoke of iron so long, both before and after that measure
+echoed the cry for the constitution of Portugal, immediately on the
+proclamation of liberty in Portugal; expecting that after this proof of
+confidence given to her pseudo brethren, they would assist her to
+deliver herself from the vipers that were consuming her entrails, and
+little thinking she should be deceived.
+
+"The Brazilians, who truly loved their country, never intended, however,
+to subject themselves to a constitution in which all had not a voice,
+and whose views were to convert them at once from free men into vile
+slaves. Nevertheless, the obstacles which, before the 26th April, 1821,
+opposed the liberties of Brazil, and which continued to exist, being
+maintained by the European troops, caused the people, fearing that they
+should never enjoy a representative assembly of their own, even for the
+very love of liberty, to follow the infamous Cortes of Portugal, and
+they even made the sacrifice of submitting to be insulted by the
+demagogue party which predominated in this hemisphere.
+
+"Even this availed not. We were so oppressed by the European forces,
+that I was obliged to send them to the opposite shore of the Rio; to
+blockade them; to force them to embark and pass the bar, in order to
+save the honour of Brazil, and to procure that liberty which we desire
+and ought to enjoy; but in vain shall we labour to procure it, if we
+permit to exist among us a party inimical to our true cause.
+
+"Scarcely were we well free from these enemies, when in a few days
+arrived another expedition, which Lisbon had sent for our protection;
+but I took upon myself to protect this empire, and I refused to receive
+it. Pernambuco did the same. And Bahia, which was the first place to
+unite with Portugal, as a reward for her good faith, and because she
+perceived too late the track she ought to have followed, now suffers
+under a cruel war for those Vandals; and her chief city, occupied only
+by them, is on the point of being rased, for they cannot maintain
+themselves there.
+
+"Such is the freedom Portugal sought to bestow on Brazil: it was to be
+converted into slavery for us; and would have ruined us totally if we
+had continued to execute her commands; which we must have done, but for
+the heroic remonstrances conveyed by petitions, first from the junta of
+government of St. Paul's, then from the camara of this capital, and
+afterwards from all the other juntas of government and camaras,
+imploring me to remain here. It appeared to me that Brazil would be
+ruined, if I did not attend to the petitions; and I did attend to them.
+I know that this was my duty, though at the risk of my life; but as it
+was in defence of this empire, it was ready, as it is now, and ever,
+when it shall be requisite.
+
+"I had scarcely pronounced the words, _As it is for the good of all, and
+the general happiness of the nation, tell the people that I remain_,
+recommending to them at the same time _union_ and _tranquillity_, when I
+began to take measures to put ourselves in a state to meet the attacks
+of our enemies, then concealed, since unmasked; one part among
+ourselves, the rest in the Portuguese democratic Cortes; providing for
+all the departments, especially those of the treasury and foreign
+affairs, by such means as prudence dictated, and which I shall not
+mention here, because they will be laid before you in proper time by the
+different officers of state.
+
+"The public treasury was in the very worst state, as the receipts had
+been much reduced; and, principally, because till within four or five
+months they had been solely those of this province. On this account it
+was not possible to raise money for all that was necessary, as we had
+already too little to pay the public creditors, or those employed in
+effective service, and to maintain my household, which cost one-fourth
+of that of the King, my august father. His disbursements exceeded four
+millions; mine did not amount to one. But although the diminution was so
+considerable, I could not be satisfied when I found that my expenses
+were so disproportioned to the reduced receipts of the treasury; and
+therefore I resolved to live as a private man, receiving only 110,000
+milrees for the whole expenses of my household, excepting the allowance
+of the Empress, my much-beloved and valued wife, which was assigned to
+her by her marriage contract.
+
+"Not satisfied with these small savings in my household with which I
+commenced, I examined into every department, as was my duty, in order to
+regulate its expenditure, and to check its abuses. Yet, still the
+revenue did not suffice; but by changing some individuals not well
+affected to the cause of the empire, but only to that of the infamous
+Portuguese party, and who were continually betraying us, for others who
+loved Brazil with all their hearts,--some from birth and principle,
+others from the intimate conviction that the cause is that of reason,--I
+have caused, and I say it with pride, the bank, which was on the point
+of losing its credit, and threatened bankruptcy every moment,--as on the
+day of the departure of my august father, Don John VI., there only
+remained the sum of two hundred contos in money,--to discount its bills,
+to re-establish its credit so completely, that no one can imagine that
+it can ever fall again into the wretched state to which it had been
+reduced. The public treasury, which, on account of the extraordinary
+expenses which should have been borne in common by all the provinces,
+but which fell solely upon this, was totally exhausted, and without
+credit, has gained such credit, that it is already known in Europe; and
+so much cash, that the greater part of the creditors, and they were not
+few, or for trifling sums, have been so far satisfied, as that their
+houses have not suffered; that the public servants have no arrears due
+any more than the military on actual service; that the other provinces
+that have adhered to the holy cause,--not by force, but from conviction,
+for I love just liberty,--have been furnished for their defence with
+warlike stores, great part of which are newly purchased, besides those
+already in the arsenals; and, moreover, they have been assisted with
+money, because their funds did not cover their necessary expenses.
+
+"In a word, the province now yields from eleven to twelve millions; its
+produce, before the departure of my august father, having been at most
+from six to seven.
+
+"Among the extraordinary expenses are, the freights of the ships on
+board of which the different expeditions sent back to Lisbon were
+embarked; the purchase of several vessels; the repair of others; pay to
+civil and military officers who have arrived here on service, and to
+those expelled from the provinces for their private sufferings in the
+tumults there raised.
+
+"The expenditure has certainly been great: but hitherto, nevertheless,
+there remain untouched, the gratuitous contributions; the sequestrated
+property of the absentees on account of political opinions; the loan of
+400,000 milrees for the purchase of ships of war indispensably necessary
+for the defence of the empire, and which exists entire; and the
+exchequer of the administration of diamonds.
+
+"In every department there was an urgent necessity for reform; but in
+this of finance still more, because it is the chief spring of the state.
+
+"The army had neither arms, men, nor discipline: with regard to arms, it
+is now perfectly ready; the men are increasing daily in proportion to
+the population; and in discipline it will soon be perfect, being already
+in obedience exemplary. I have twice sent assistance to Bahia: first 240
+men, then 735, forming a battalion called the Emperor's Battalion; which
+in eight days was chosen, prepared, and sailed.
+
+"Besides these, a foreign regiment has been raised, and a battalion of
+artillery of freed men, which will shortly be completed.
+
+"In the military arsenal they have wrought diligently to prepare every
+thing necessary for the defence of the different provinces; and all,
+_from Paraiba of the North to Montevideo_, have received the assistance
+they have requested.
+
+"The walls of the fortifications of this city were totally ruined: they
+are now repaired; and important works necessary in the arsenal itself
+have been finished.
+
+"As to military works, the walls of all the fortresses have been
+repaired, and some entirely new-constructed. These are formed in the
+different points fittest to oppose any enemy's force approaching by sea;
+and in the defiles of the hills, to oppose the approach of an enemy
+already landed, (which would not be easy,) entrenchments, forts,
+redoubts, abatis, and batteries. The barracks of the Carioca are built,
+and the other barracks are prepared. That in the Praca da Acclamaca[)o] is
+almost finished, and that ordered for the grenadiers will shortly be
+so.
+
+"The fleet consisted only of the frigate Piranga, then called the Union,
+not fitted; the corvette Liberal, only a hull; and of a few other small
+and insignificant vessels. Now we have the ship of the line, Pedro
+Primeiro; the frigates Piranga, Carolina, and Netherohy; the corvettes
+Maria da Gloria and Liberal, ready; a corvette, in Alagoas, which will
+soon be ready, named the Massaio: of the brigs of war, Guarani ready,
+and the Cacique and Caboclo under repair; besides several ships in
+ordinary, and various schooners.
+
+"I expect six frigates of fifty guns, manned and armed, and completely
+formed for action, for the purchase of which I have already given
+orders; and according to the information I have received, they will not
+cost above thirteen contos of rees.
+
+"In the dock-yard, the works are the following:--all the ships now
+actually employed have been repaired; gun-boats, and others of small
+size, which I need not name, have been built; and many others, which,
+altogether, are numerous and important.
+
+"I intend this year, in the same place, where for thirteen years back
+nothing has been done but caulking, rigging, and careening
+vessels,--swallowing immense sums, which might have been more usefully
+employed for the nation,--to lay down the keel of a forty-gun frigate;
+which, if the calculation I have made, the orders I have given, and the
+measures I have taken do not fail, I hope will be finished this year, or
+in the middle of the next, and will be called the _Campista_.
+
+"As to public works, much has been done. The police office in the Praca
+da Acclamaca[)o] has been rebuilt: that large square has been drained of
+the marsh water, and has become an agreeable walk, with paved paths on
+all sides, and others across, and we are still continuing to embellish
+it. The greater part of the aqueduct of Carioca and Maracana[)o], have been
+repaired; besides the numerous bridges of wood and stone which have been
+renewed, several new ones have been made, and a great extent of roads
+has been mended.
+
+"Besides what I have mentioned, and much more which I have not touched
+on, the funds for these works, which in April, 1821, owed 60 contos of
+rees, now is not only out of debt, but possesses upwards of 600,000
+crusadoes.
+
+"In different departments we have made the following progress. We have
+greatly increased the national typography; the public gardens have been
+put in order; the museum repaired, and enriched with minerals and a
+gallery of good pictures,--some of which were purchased, some were
+already in the public treasury, and others were my private property,
+which I have ordered to be placed there.
+
+"Every exertion has been made on the Caes da Praca de Commercio, so that
+it is nearly finished; the streets of the city have been new-paved; and
+in a very short time this house for the assembly, with all the rest
+adjoining, were properly fitted for their purpose.
+
+"Many works which are of less importance have been undertaken, begun,
+and finished; but I omit them, that I may not render my speech too long.
+
+"I have encouraged the public schools, as far as I could; but this will
+demand some peculiar provision of the legislature. What has been done is
+this:--In order to augment the public library I have bought a large
+collection of choice books; I have augmented the number of schools, and
+increased the salary of some of the masters, besides licensing
+innumerable private schools; and, aware of the benefits of the method of
+mutual instruction, I have opened a Lancasterian school.
+
+"I found the college of San Joaquim, which had been designed by its
+founders for the education of youth, employed as the hospital of the
+European troops. I caused it to be opened anew, for the purposes
+originally intended; and having granted to the _Casa de Misericordia_,
+and the foundling hospital, of which I will speak farther, a lottery for
+the better maintenance of those useful institutions, I assigned a
+certain portion of the said lottery to the college of San Joaquim, that
+it might the better answer the useful end which its worthy founders had
+in view. It is now full of students.
+
+"The first time I visited the foundling hospital, I found (and it seems
+incredible) seven infants with only two wet-nurses; no beds, no
+clothing: I called for the register, and found that in the last thirteen
+years nearly 12,000 children had been received, but scarcely 1000 were
+forthcoming, the Misericordia not knowing in fact what had become of
+them. Then by granting the lottery, a house proper for the establishment
+was built, where there are upwards of thirty beds, almost as many nurses
+as children, and on the whole, much better management. All these things
+of which I have now spoken merit your particular attention.--After this
+province was settled, and important provisions made for the rest, I felt
+it necessary to call together a council of state; and, therefore, by the
+degree of the 16th of February of last year, I convoked one, composed of
+procurators-general, chosen by the people, being desirous that they
+should have some persons near me to represent them, and who might at the
+same time advise me, and demand such things as should be conducive to
+the good of each of the respective provinces. Nor was this the only end
+and motive for which I called such a council together: I wished
+particularly that the Brazilians might know my constitutional feelings.
+How I delighted to govern to the satisfaction of the people, and how
+much my paternal heart desired (though at that time secretly, because
+circumstances did not then permit me to manifest such wishes,) that this
+loyal, grateful, brave, and heroic nation, should be represented in a
+general constituent and legislative assembly; which, thank God, has been
+brought about in consequence of the degree of the 3d of June of the last
+year, at the request of the people conveyed through their camaras, their
+procurators, and my counsellors of state!
+
+"It has been very painful to me that, till now, Brazil should not have
+enjoyed a national representation, and to be forced by circumstances to
+take upon myself to legislate on some points: but my measures cannot
+appear to have arisen from ambition to legislate, arrogating to myself
+the whole power, of which I only could claim a part--for they were taken
+to save Brazil,--because when some of them were adopted the assembly
+had not been convoked, and when others were necessary it had not yet
+met; therefore, as Brazil was totally independent of Portugal, the three
+powers then existed in fact and by right in the person of the supreme
+chief of the nation, and much the more as he was its perpetual defender.
+
+"It is true that some measures appeared extremely strong; but as the
+peril was imminent, and the enemies who surrounded us were innumerable
+(and would to God they were not even now so many), it was necessary they
+should be proportionate.
+
+"I have not spared myself; nor will I ever spare toil, however great, if
+from it the smallest portion of happiness can be derived to the nation.
+
+"When the people of the rich and majestic province of _Minas_ were
+suffering under the iron yoke of their mistaken governors, who disposed
+of it as they pleased, and obliged the pacific and gentle inhabitants to
+disobey me, I marched thither, only attended by my servants: I convicted
+the government and its creatures of the crime they had committed, and of
+the error in which they seemed desirous of persisting; I pardoned them,
+because the crime was more an offence against me, than against the
+nation, as we were then united to Portugal.
+
+"When a party of Portuguese and degenerate Brazilians attached to the
+Cortes of miserable, worn-out Portugal, arose among the brave people of
+the beautiful and delightful province of St. Paul's, I instantly
+repaired thither, and entered the province _fearlessly, because I knew
+the people loved me_. I took the measures that appeared to me to be
+necessary; and there, before any other place, our independence was
+declared, in the ever-memorable plain of Piranga.
+
+"It was at the country seat of the most faithful, and never-enough
+praised Amador Bueno de Rebeira, that I was first proclaimed Emperor.
+
+"My soul itself was grieved that I could not go to Bahia, as I had
+intended, but which I did not do on the remonstrance of my privy
+council, to mingle my blood with that of those warriors who have so
+bravely fought for their country.
+
+"At all hazards, at that of life itself, if necessary, I will maintain
+the title that the people of this rich and vast empire honoured me with
+on the 13th of May, of the past year--PERPETUAL DEFENDER OF BRAZIL. That
+title engaged my heart more, than all the splendour I acquired by their
+spontaneous and unanimous acclamation of me as Emperor of this desirable
+empire.
+
+"Thanks be to Providence, that we now see the nation represented by such
+worthy deputies! Would to God it could have been so earlier! But the
+circumstances preceding the decree of the 3d of June did not permit it;
+and since that time, the great distance, the want of public spirit in
+some, and the inconveniences of long journeys, especially in a country
+so new and extensive as Brazil, have retarded this much-wished and
+necessary meeting, notwithstanding all my repeated recommendations of
+speed.
+
+"At length the great day for this vast empire has arisen, which will be
+the grand epocha of its history. _The assembly is met to constitute the
+nation: what joy--what happiness for us all!_
+
+"As CONSTITUTIONAL EMPEROR, and most especially as PERPETUAL DEFENDER of
+this vast empire, I told the people on the 1st of December, the day when
+I was crowned and anointed, '_That with my sword I would defend the
+country, the nation, and the constitution, if it were worthy of Brazil
+and of me_." I this day, in your presence, most solemnly ratify this
+promise, and I trust you will assist me in fulfilling it, by framing a
+wise, just, and practicable constitution, dictated by reason, not
+caprice; and having solely in view the general happiness, which can
+never be great if the constitution be not founded on solid grounds,
+grounds which the wisdom of ages has shown to be just, in order to give
+true liberty to the people, and sufficient strength to the executive
+power. A constitution in which the limits of the three powers shall be
+well defined, that they may never arrogate rights not their own; but
+shall be so organised and harmonised, that it shall be impossible for
+them, even in the lapse of time, to become inimical to each other, but
+shall every day jointly contribute to the general happiness of the
+state. In short, a constitution which shall oppose insuperable barriers
+to despotism, whether royal, aristocratic, or democratic; defeat
+anarchy; and plant that tree of liberty under whose shadow the honour,
+tranquillity, and independence of this empire, which will become the
+admiration of the Old and New World, must grow.
+
+"All the constitutions which have modelled themselves upon those of 1791
+and 1792, have been shown by experience to be entirely theoretical and
+metaphysical, and therefore impracticable. Witness those of France,
+Spain, and Portugal: they have not, as they ought, produced public
+happiness; but after a licentious freedom, we see that in some countries
+there has already taken place, and in others there is on the point of
+doing so, a despotism of one, after that of many; and, by a necessary
+consequence, the people are reduced to the wretched state of registering
+and suffering all the horrors of anarchy.
+
+"But far from us be such melancholy reflections: they darken the joy and
+exultation of this happy day. You are not ignorant of them; and I am
+sure, that firmness in those true constitutional views, which have been
+sanctioned by experience, will characterise every one of the deputies
+who compose this illustrious assembly. I trust, that the constitution
+which you will frame will merit my Imperial assent; that it will be as
+wise and just as suited to the local situation and to the civilisation
+of the Brazilian people: also that it may be praised among the nations,
+so that even our enemies may imitate the sanctity and wisdom of its
+principles, and at length practise them.
+
+"So illustrious and patriotic an assembly will have in view no object
+but to cause the empire to prosper, and to fill it with happiness: it
+will wish its Emperor to be respected, not only at home but among
+foreign nations; and that its _Perpetual Defender_ should exactly
+fulfil his promise of the first of last December, solemnly ratified
+to-day, in the presence of the nation legally represented."
+
+When the Emperor had done speaking, the bishop of the diocese, acting as
+president of the assembly, made a short answer of thanks, praise, and
+promise; after which, the whole of the members, the spectators in the
+galleries, and the people without doors, cheered His Imperial Majesty
+enthusiastically, and the procession returned to San Cristova[)o] in the
+order in which it came.
+
+The theatre of course concluded the ceremonies of the day; and my
+friend, Madame do Rio Seco, having kindly offered me a seat in her box,
+I went thither, for the first time since my return to Brazil. She was in
+high spirits, because that day the Emperor had conferred on her husband
+the order of the Cruzeiro; and therefore she went really in grand gala
+to the opera. Her diamonds worn that night may be valued at 150,000_l_
+sterling, and many splendid jewels remained behind in the strong box.
+For my part, I had gone to town in my morning dress; therefore I sent to
+a milliner's, and bought such a plain crape head-dress as the customs of
+the place warrant, in deep mourning; and wrapping myself in my shawl,
+accompanied my magnificent friend. The house appeared very splendid,
+being illuminated and dressed, and the ladies one and all in diamonds
+and feathers. Some decorations have been added since last year, and an
+allegorical drop-scene has been painted. The Empress did not come, on
+account of her recent illness; but the Emperor was there, looking pale,
+and a little fatigued. He was received with rapturous applause. The
+members of the assembly were seated one-half on his right, and one-half
+on his left, in boxes handsomely fitted up for them; and as soon as they
+had all taken their places, a poem on the occasion was recited by the
+Prima Donna, in which there were some good points, which called forth
+great applause. I think it is Gresset who, in one of his odes _Au Roi_,
+says,
+
+    "Le cri d'un peuple heureux est la seule eloquence
+    Qui sait parler des rois."
+
+And indeed this night that eloquence was powerful. I cannot conceive a
+situation more full of interest to both prince and people.
+
+There was nothing in the principal piece played to-night, for it was a
+clumsy translation of Lodoiska, without the songs. But the after-piece
+excited much emotion: it was called "The Discovery of Brazil." Cabral
+and his officers were represented as just landed: they had discovered
+the natives of the country; and, according to the custom of the
+Portuguese discoverers, they had set up their white flag, with the red
+holy cross upon it, whence they had first named the land. At the foot of
+this emblem they kneeled in worship, and endeavoured to induce the wild
+Brazilians to join them in their sacred rites. These, on their part,
+tried to persuade Cabral to reverence the heavenly bodies, and
+dissension seemed about to trouble the union of the new friends, when by
+a clumsy enough machine, a little genius came down from above, and
+leaping from its car, displayed the new Imperial standard, inscribed
+_Independencia o Morte_. This was totally unexpected in the house,
+which, for an instant, seemed electrified into silence. I believe I
+clapped my hands first, but the burst of feeling that came from every
+part of the house was long ere it subsided. Now I know nothing so
+overpowering, as that sort of unanimous expression of deep interest,
+from any large body of men. It overset me; and when I ought to have been
+waving my handkerchief decorously from the great chamberlain's box, I
+was hiding my face with it, and weeping heartily. When the house was
+quiet again, I looked at Don Pedro: he had become very pale, and had
+drawn a chair close to his own; on the back of which he leaned, and was
+very grave to the end of the piece, having his hand before his eyes for
+some time; and, indeed, his quick feelings could not have escaped what
+affected even strangers.
+
+At the close of the piece there were loud cries of "Viva la Patria!"
+"Viva o Emperador!" "Viva a Emperatriz!" "Viva[)o] os Deputados!" all
+originating in the body of the house; when Martim Francisco de Andrada
+stepped to the front of one of the boxes of the Deputies, and cried
+"Viva o povo leal e fiel do Rio de Janeiro!" a cry that was extremely
+well seconded, especially by the Emperor, and kindly taken by the
+people; and so this important day ended.
+
+_May 6th._--To-day I rode to San Cristova[)o], through a very beautiful
+country. The palace, which once belonged to a convent, is placed upon a
+rising ground, and is built rather in the Moresco style, and coloured
+yellow with white mouldings. It has a beautiful screen, a gateway of
+Portland stone, and the court is planted with weeping willows; so that a
+group of great beauty is formed in the bosom of a valley, surrounded by
+high and picturesque mountains, the chief of which is the Beco do
+Perroquito.[107] The view from the palace opens to part of the bay, over
+an agreeable plain flanked by fertile hills, one of which is crowned by
+the very handsome barracks that were once a Jesuit establishment. I rode
+round by the back of the palace to the farm, which appears to be in good
+order; and the village of the slaves, with its little church, looks more
+comfortable than I could have believed it possible for a village of
+slaves to do. The Imperial family now live entirely here, and only go to
+town on formal business or occasions of state.
+
+[Note 107: Nearly 2000 feet high.]
+
+_May 12th._--I have been too unwell to do any thing; and only write
+to-day to notice the arrival of the Jupiter frigate, with Lord Amherst
+on his way to India, and the rumour that he has some official character
+at this court.
+
+_16th._--Lord Amherst and suite went to court in such ceremony as
+induces people to believe he really has a diplomatic character here. The
+Alacrity has arrived from Valparaiso, and has brought me some old
+letters from England that have helped my sickness to depress my spirits.
+'Tis after all a sad thing to be alone and sick in a foreign land! The
+Doris also is arrived from Bahia. She has had no direct communication
+with Lord Cochrane's little squadron; but it seems, that with his six
+ships, he keeps the enemy's fleet of fifteen sail in check. The town of
+Bahia is said to be in a dreadful state for want of provisions. The
+slaves are daily dying in the streets. Some houses, after appearing shut
+up for some days, have been opened by the police officers, who have
+found the masters escaped, and the slaves dead.--Twice a day the gates
+have been opened to allow the women and children to leave the town. Some
+of the officers of the Doris had the curiosity to attend on one of these
+occasions, and saw 500 persons, laden with as much furniture and
+clothes, as in their weak hungry state they could carry, leave the city.
+The little fresh provision that finds its way into the town is
+exorbitantly dear. General Madeira has proclaimed martial-law in the
+place; he has seized some corn and flour out of a neutral ship, and has
+raised forced loans from all classes, both native and foreign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The ship has brought two or three newspapers from Bahia. As might be
+expected, they breathe the most violent, and inveterate spirit against
+the Imperial government, and every body employed by it; calling the
+Emperor a Turkish despot, a sultan, &c., and Jose Bonifacio a tyrannic
+vizier. Lord Cochrane, of course, does not escape; and to all old
+calumnies against him, they now add that he is a coward, for which
+agreeable compliments they are likely to pay dearly I should think. The
+Supplement to the Idade d'Ouro of the 25th of April gives lists of the
+two squadrons, drawn up for the purpose of inspiring confidence in the
+Portuguese, under-rating the force of Lord Cochrane's ships, and
+representing them as so ill manned,--although, according to them, the
+most oppressive measures were adopted to man them,--as not to be able to
+face the Portuguese. However, they have thought fit to call in all their
+vessels from the Funil and other stations where they had their small
+ships placed, in order to reinforce their fleet.[108] They have
+published a circular letter, calling on all officers and crews to exert
+themselves, promising them the destruction of the Brazilian fleet. And,
+on the same day, the 24th of April, the Admiral Joa[)o] Felix Pereira de
+Campos, under pretence of indisposition, turns over the command to
+another officer.
+
+[Note 108: _Brazilian Ships_.
+
+Line-of-battle ship D. Pedro I.  64 guns, really,     78 guns
+
+Frigate Uni[)a]o                    44        do.        50
+
+Frigate Carolina                 36        do.        44
+
+Frigate Successo[*]              36        do.        38
+
+Corvette Maria da Gloria         32        do.        32
+
+Corvette Liberal                 22        do.        22
+
+Schooner Real                    16        do.        16
+
+                               ----     Nightingale   20
+                     Total     250 guns.            ----
+                               ----                  300
+                                                    ----
+
+There is besides one fire-ship and one gun-boat.
+Note: *(Now _Nitherohy_.)
+
+
+_Ships of the Portuguese Squadron_.
+
+                               Guns.
+
+Line-of-battle ship D. Jo[)a]o 6   74 {Commandante Capit[)a]o de Fragata
+                                   {Joaquin Jose da Cunha
+
+Frigate Constituic[)a]o            50 {Capit[)a]o de Fragata Joaquim Maria
+                                   {Bruno de Moraes.
+
+Dita Perola                     44 Capit[)a]o de Fragata Jose Joaquim
+                                   d'Amorim.
+
+Corvette Princeza Real          28 Capit[)a]o Tenente Francisco Borja
+                                   Pereira de Sa.
+
+Dita Calypso                    22 Capit[)a]o Tenente Joaquim Antonio
+                                   de Castro.
+
+Dita Regenerac[)a]o                26 Capit[)a]o de Fragata Jo[)a]o Ignacio
+                                   da Silveira e Motta.
+
+Dita Dez de Fevereiro           26 Capit[)a]o de Fragata Miguel Gil de
+                                   Noronha.
+
+Dita Activa                     22 Capit[)a]o Lieut. Isidoro Francisco
+                                   Guimar[)a]es.
+
+Brig Audaz                      20 Capit[)a]o Tenente Jo[)a]o da Costa
+                                   Carvalho.
+
+Corvette S. Gaulter             26 1� Lieut. Graduado Manoel de
+                                   Jesus.
+
+Corvette Principe do Brazil     26 Lieut. Antonio Feliciano
+                                   Rodrigues.
+
+Dita Restaurac[)a]o                26 1� Tenente Graduado Flores.
+
+Sumaca Conceic[)a]o                 8 2� Tenente Carvalho.
+                              ----
+                     Total     398 guns.
+                              ----
+
+]
+
+These measures were adopted, in consequence of the news of Lord
+Cochrane's arrival in Brazil having been conveyed to General Madeira by
+His Britannic Majesty's ship Tartar, the only vessel that sailed from
+Rio during the time of the embargo. We are becoming very anxious indeed
+for news from His Lordship: many rumours are afloat; but as there has
+been no direct communication from the squadron, they only increase the
+general anxiety.
+
+_May 17th_.--Soon after I arrived here, in March, or rather as soon as
+my patient Glennie left me, I felt that, as a stranger here, and
+situated as I am, I was peculiarly unprotected, and therefore I spoke to
+the minister Jose Bonifacio, telling him my feelings; and saying, that
+from the amiable character of the Empress, I should wish to be allowed
+to wait on her, and to consider her as protecting me while I remain in
+the empire. She accordingly promised to fix a day for me to see her; but
+a severe indisposition has hitherto confined her to her room. Now, Lady
+Amherst having requested to see Her Imperial Majesty, the day after
+to-morrow is fixed on for the purpose; and I have an intimation that I
+shall be received on the same day, as the Empress wishes not to receive
+any other foreigner before me. This is polite, or rather it is more; it
+is really kind.
+
+_19th_.--Though I was suffering exceedingly this morning, I resolved
+nevertheless to attend the Empress at noon, at San Cristova[)o]. I was
+obliged to take a quantity of opium, to enable me to do so. However, I
+arrived at the appointed time; and, as I had been desired to do, asked
+for the _camarista mor_, Jose Bonifacio's sister, and was shown into the
+presence-chamber, where I found that lady and Lady Amherst, Miss
+Amherst, and Mrs. Chamberlain. The Empress entered shortly after, in a
+handsome morning dress of purple satin, with white ornaments, and
+looking extremely well. Mrs. Chamberlain presented Lady and Miss
+Amherst; and Her Imperial Majesty spoke for some minutes with Her
+Ladyship. After which she motioned to me to go to her, which I did. She
+spoke to me most kindly; and said, in a very flattering way, that she
+had long known me by name, and several other things that persons in her
+rank can make so agreeable by voice and manner; and I left her with the
+most agreeable impressions. She is extremely like several persons whom I
+have seen of the Austrian Imperial family, and has a remarkably sweet
+expression.
+
+The corridor through which I passed from the palace steps, and the
+presence-room, are both plain and handsome. As it might be called a
+private audience, there were neither guards, officers, nor attendants,
+excepting the camarista mor.
+
+The Emperor is at present at his country-house of Santa Cruz; so that
+San Cristova[)o] appeared like a private gentleman's seat, it was so still.
+
+_Saturday, June 7th_.--Since the day I was at San Cristova[)o], I have been
+confined to my room, and totally unable to exert myself, either mind or
+body, from severe indisposition. The Creole is come in from Bahia, to
+get provisions, preparatory to going home. The Commodore has offered me
+a passage in her, and has written to that purpose; but I am in no state
+to embark for a long voyage. The accounts from Bahia are sadder than
+ever: as to the Bahians, though favourable to the Imperial cause the
+misery, of the poor inhabitants is great indeed.
+
+_12th._--We have been for three days kept in a state of agitation, by
+reports that Bahia has fallen, and various rumours attending those
+reports: they all turn out to have arisen from a _russe de guerre_ of
+Madeira, who contrived to despatch a small vessel to a port on the coast
+for flour, pretending that it was for Lord Cochrane, and spreading that
+report to cover its real purpose.
+
+_23d._--A brig, prize to the squadron, arrived, and also the Sesostris,
+a merchant ship bound to Valparaiso, on board of which were Lady
+Cochrane and her family going to Chile. Thank God, by putting in here,
+she has learned where Lord Cochrane is, and is thus spared the tedious
+voyage, and her excellent husband much anxiety on her account.
+
+_14th._--At length we have true news both from and of Lord Cochrane. I
+wrote to Lady Cochrane, excusing myself on account of illness from going
+to her, and she kindly called on me as she landed; and a few minutes
+afterwards I received letters from the Admiral, and from some others in
+the squadron.
+
+As might have been expected, from the haste in which the squadron was
+equipped, the ships had to encounter some difficulties at first. Some of
+the sails and cordage, which had been seventeen years in store, were
+found almost unserviceable; the guns of some of the ships were without
+locks, as the Portuguese had not adopted them: the cartridges were
+mostly made up in canvass: but the real evil was the number of
+Portuguese, both men and officers, among the crews, which kept them in a
+continual state of discontent, if not mutiny.
+
+Lord Cochrane had chosen as head-quarters for the squadron, the harbour
+behind the Moro of San Paulo, about thirty miles south of Bahia, and
+commanding the channel behind Itaparica; a country well watered and
+wooded, and in the neighbourhood of all supplies of fresh necessaries.
+There is good and sheltered anchorage in from seven to twenty fathoms
+water, and on the whole it was well adapted for its purpose. As soon as
+it was known that His Lordship was off Bahia, the Portuguese squadron
+came out, and spread itself along the shore north of the bay. Lord
+Cochrane, who had waited in vain at the place of rendezvous at sea for
+the two fire-ships, which he expected from Rio, had fitted one of his
+small vessels, the schooner Real, as a fire-ship, and had intended to
+run into Bahia on the 4th of May; when he fell in with the Portuguese
+fleet, in number thirteen[109], he having with him five ships, a brig,
+and the fire vessel. He instantly ran through their line, cutting off
+the four sternmost ships; and had the men done their duty, nothing could
+have saved the ship they were first alongside of: but they fired too
+soon; and though the fire did great execution, wounding and killing
+many, both on board that ship and the Joam VI., which was immediately to
+the windward of the Pedro, yet the Admiral was disappointed. The slow
+sailing of the Piranga and Netherohy kept them farther behind the Pedro
+than their brave commanders wished; the others were forced to keep
+aloof, it is said, by the conviction that their crews could not be
+trusted against the Portuguese. As to the crew of the Admiral's ship,
+two of the Portuguese marines went into the magazine passage, and with
+their drawn swords impeded the handing up the powder. The squadrons
+separated after this. Lord Cochrane determined to attack the Portuguese
+again next day. Captain Crosbie, Lieutenant Shepherd, and eleven others
+were wounded; but no other damage was sustained by the Imperial
+squadron, while that of the Europeans had suffered much both in crews
+and rigging.
+
+[Note 109: One ship of the line, five frigates, five corvettes, a
+brig, and a schooner.]
+
+On the morning of the 5th, Lord Cochrane looked in vain for the enemy.
+He had apparently been satisfied with the skirmish of the 4th, and had
+taken refuge in the harbour; so that His Lordship returned to the Moro
+de San Paulo, with only the satisfaction of having driven the enemy from
+the open sea.
+
+Meantime the Brazilian Imperial force that was posted behind the city,
+taking advantage of the absence of the fleet, and consequently of the
+two thousand seamen who served the artillery ashore, advanced from the
+sitio of Brotas, where their centre was quartered, towards the town.
+Madeira marched out to meet them, and an action took place entirely in
+favour of the Imperialists; and it is said that the King's fleet was
+recalled in consequence of this disaster.
+
+Lord Cochrane had no sooner returned to San Paulo than he made such
+provisions with regard to his squadron, as he judged most prudent for
+the public service. The vessel that has arrived here has brought down
+some of the ill-affected Portuguese. All, I believe, from the report of
+the officer who arrived in the prize, have been dismissed from the Pedro
+Primero.
+
+Lord Cochrane has taken the officers and English seamen of the Piranga
+and Nitherohy on board the Pedro, so that now he has one ship he may
+depend on: he has exchanged the eighteen-pound guns of the main-deck,
+for the twenty-four pounders of the Piranga, and has placed guns along
+his gang-ways; and we trust the next news we have from him, we shall
+learn something favourable to the cause of independence.
+
+As far as the government here could supply every thing to the squadron
+to insure its success, it was done in the most liberal manner; and the
+failures, where they occurred, were owing to the peculiar circumstances
+of the times and country, which admitted of no controul. That some
+things should have been imperfect was to be expected: that so much
+should have been done, and well done, excites admiration. But the
+Emperor appreciates the brave man who commands his fleet; and while that
+is the case, a difficulty as soon as felt will be obviated.
+
+_19th_.--My health grows worse and worse. The Creole sailed to-day. I
+have amused myself for two days with some English newspapers. If any
+thing can rouse me to health it surely ought to be news from England.
+
+Lord Althorp has, I see, made a spirited but ineffectual effort for the
+repeal of the foreign enlistment bill; a most interesting subject in
+this country: and I see with pleasure a virtual acknowledgment from the
+English ministers of the independence of Spanish America.
+
+_22d_.--This is the eve of St. John's, whereon the maidens of Brazil
+practise some of the same rites as those of Scotland do at Hallowe'en,
+to ascertain the fate of their loves. They burn nuts together; they put
+their hands, blindfold, on a table, with the letters of the alphabet;
+and practise many a simple conjuration. I think I recollect long ago, to
+have seen the maid-servants of a house in Berkshire place an herb, I
+think a kind of stone-crop, behind the door, calling it Midsummer men,
+that was to chain the favoured youth as he entered. For me I only wish
+for the _nucca_ drop of the Arab to fall this night, so I might catch
+it, and be relieved from my weary sickness.
+
+_June 26th_.--My friend, Dr. Dickson, who has attended me all this time
+with unvarying kindness, having advised change of air for me, he and Mr.
+May have pitched on a small house on Botafogo beach, having an upper
+story, which is considered as an advantage here, the ground-floor houses
+being often a little damp; and to-day Captain Willis of the Brazen
+brought me in his boat to my new dwelling. My good neighbours, Colonel
+and Mrs. Cunningham, try by their hospitality to prevent my feeling so
+much the loss of my friends Mr. and Mrs. May, who were every thing kind
+to me while at the Gloria.
+
+Botafogo bay is certainly one of the most beautiful scenes in the world;
+but, till of late years, its shores were little inhabited by the higher
+classes of society. At the farthest end there is a gorge between the
+Corcovado mountain and the rocks belonging to what may be called the
+Sugar-loaf group, which leads to the Lagoa of Rodrigo Freites, through
+which gorge a small rivulet of fine fresh water runs to the sea. Just at
+its mouth, there has long been a village inhabited by gipsies, who have
+found their way hither, and preserve much of their peculiarity of
+appearance and character in this their trans-atlantic home. They conform
+to the religion of the country in all outward things, and belong to the
+parish of which the curate of Nossa Senhora da Monte is pastor; but
+their conformity does not appear to have influenced their moral habits.
+They employ their slaves in fishing, and part of their families is
+generally resident at their settlements; but the men rove about the
+country, and are the great horse-jockies of this part of Brazil. Some of
+them engage in trade, and many are very rich, but still they are reputed
+thieves and cheats; and to call a man _Zingara_ (gipsy) is as much as to
+call him knave. They retain their peculiar dialect; but I have not been
+able, personally, to get sufficiently acquainted with them to form any
+judgment of the degree in which their change of country and climate may
+have affected their original habits.
+
+His Majesty's ship Beaver arrived, two days since from Bahia. It seems
+that Madeira, unable to hold the place any longer, is resolved to leave
+it. He is pressed to the utmost by Lord Cochrane's squadron, which cuts
+off his provisions, and by continual alarms kept up on the coast, by His
+Lordship's own appearance from sea, and by the preparations he is making
+in the Reconcave for an attack with fire-ships and gun-boats on the
+town. It is expected, therefore, that Madeira will abandon the place as
+soon as he can get shipping together to embark the troops. It is
+asserted even that he has fixed the day, that of San Pedro, for
+evacuating the place. The following proclamation is certainly
+preparatory to his doing so; but as the time must depend on
+contingencies, it cannot be so certain:--
+
+"Inhabitants of Bahia!
+
+"The crisis in which we find ourselves is perilous, because the means of
+subsistence fail us, and we cannot secure the entrance of any
+provisions. My duty as a soldier, and as governor, is to make every
+sacrifice in order to save the city; but it is equally my duty to
+prevent in an extreme case the sacrifice of the troops that I command,
+of the squadron, and of yourselves. I shall employ every means to fulfil
+both these duties. Do not suffer yourselves to be persuaded that
+measures of foresight are always followed by disasters. You have already
+seen me take such once before: they alarmed you; but you were afterwards
+convinced that they portended nothing extraordinary. Even in the midst
+of formidable armies, measures of precaution are daily used; because
+victory is not constant, and reverses should be provided against. You
+may assure yourselves, that the measures I am now taking are purely
+precautionary: but it is necessary to communicate them to you, because
+if it happens that we must abandon the city, many of you will leave it
+also; and I should be responsible to the nation and to the King, if I
+had not forewarned you. (Signed)
+
+"IGNACIO LUIZ MADEIRA DE MELLO.
+
+Head-quarters, Bahia, May 28. 1823."
+
+This proclamation increased the general alarm to the highest pitch. The
+editors of even the Portuguese newspapers use the strongest language.
+One of them says, "The few last days, we have witnessed in this city a
+most doleful spectacle, that must touch the heart even of the most
+insensible: a panic terror has seized on all men's minds," &c.[110] And
+then goes on to anticipate the horrors of a city left without
+protectors, and of families, whose fathers being obliged to fly, should
+be left like orphans, with their property, a prey to the invaders. These
+fears abated a little on the 2d of June, when a vessel entered Bahia,
+having on board 3000 alquieres of farinha; and the spirits of the troops
+were raised by a slight advantage obtained on the 3d over the patriots.
+But the relief was of short duration. On a rigorous search there were
+found in the city no more than six weeks' provisions besides those
+necessary for the ships, and the General proceeded in his preparations
+for quitting Brazil. He now allowed the magistrates to resume their
+functions suspended by the declaration of martial-law, and produced a
+letter from the King, naming five persons to form a provisional
+government; and though some of them were unwilling to accept of the
+office, he caused them to take the oaths, and enter directly on their
+functions.
+
+[Note 110: _Semanario Civico_ of the 5th June.]
+
+Madeira's preparations for his departure were accelerated by an attack
+made by Lord Cochrane on the night of the 12th of June, with only the
+Pedro Primeiro. The Portuguese Admiral was ashore, dining with General
+Madeira; when, at ten o'clock at night, a shot was heard. "What is it?"
+exclaimed the latter to the messenger, who, in alarm, entered the
+room.--"'Tis Lord Cochrane's line-of-battle ship, in the very midst of
+our fleet."--"Impossible!" exclaimed the Admiral; "no large ship can
+have come up with the ebb tide." And there was as much consternation and
+as much bustle of preparation, as if the fleet of England had entered in
+a hostile manner. The Pedro Primeiro was indeed close alongside of the
+Constituica[)o]; but the Admiral disdained so small a prize, and pushed on
+to the Joam VI.; had he reached her, he might have carried the whole
+squadron out with him; but just as he seemed on the point of doing so,
+the breeze that had brought him in over the tide failed, and it fell a
+dead calm: by this time every ship was in motion, the forts began to
+play, and, reluctantly, the Pedro dropped out of the harbour with the
+tide, untouched by the enemy.
+
+The daring of this attempt has filled the Portuguese with astonishment
+and dismay, and they are now most willing to abandon Bahia. The church
+plate, and all the cash that can be collected, are believed to be on
+board the British ships of war.[111]
+
+[Note 111: This is reported only. I have never asked, nor should I,
+I imagine, receive an answer if I did ask, any English officer about
+such things. The general disposition among them is evidently towards the
+old government; but their conduct is, as it ought to be, strictly
+neutral.]
+
+_July 1st_.--A good deal of sensation has been excited to-day of rather
+a painful nature: the Emperor has fallen from his horse, and has broken
+two of his ribs, and is otherwise much bruised; however, his youth and
+strength prevent any serious apprehension from the consequences of his
+accident. There is no public news, and I am much too ill to care for any
+other. A foreigner, and alone, and very sick, I have abundant leisure to
+see the worth to the world of riches, or the appearance of them, and
+show and parade; and to feel that if I had them all, they could neither
+relieve the head nor the heart of the suffering or the sorrowful.
+
+I think I am grown selfish: I cannot interest myself in the little
+things of other people's lives as I used to do; I require the strong
+stimulus of public interest to rouse my attention. It is long since I
+have been able to go out among the beautiful scenery here, to enjoy the
+charms of nature.
+
+_11th_.--Once more I begin to feel better, and to go out of doors a
+little. All sorts of people crowd daily to visit the Emperor, who is
+recovering, but is still confined to the house. For the first time for
+these many weeks, I took a drive to-day; and went, as far as San
+Cristova[)o], to enquire after His Imperial Majesty, and leave my name. The
+road, both as I went and returned, was crowded with carriages and
+horsemen, on the same errand. Besides that the people do love him, his
+life is of the utmost importance to the very existence of Brazil as an
+independent nation at present, at any rate in peace.
+
+_13th_.--I have become acquainted with two or three pleasant Brazilians,
+and one or two of the better kind of Portuguese, who have adopted
+Brazil.[112] There are not above five Fidalgos of the number, and these
+ancient nobles are objects of jealousy to the new, in number about a
+dozen, who infinitely surpass them in riches; so that we have the usual
+gossip and scandal of courts and cities, in which, as the women are
+usually the most active, so they suffer most: nor are our English one
+whit behind them. There is not much formal visiting among the English,
+but a good deal of quiet tea-drinking, and now and then parties formed
+to dine out of doors in the cool weather.
+
+[Note 112: On the 9th of March, an Imperial edict was published,
+desiring all such as would not conform to the laws of the empire to quit
+it within two months, if they dwelt on the coast, and within four, if
+inland, on pain of loss of property; and thenceforth all good subjects
+to wear on their arms the green rose and gold badge, with _Independencia
+o Morte_, engraved on it.]
+
+In short, my countrywomen here are a discreet sober set of persons, with
+not more than a reasonable share of good or bad. They go pretty
+regularly to church on Sundays, for we have a very pretty protestant
+chapel in Rio, served by a respectable clergyman; meet after church to
+luncheon and gossip: some go afterwards to the opera, others play cards,
+and some few stay at home, or ride out with their husbands, and instruct
+themselves and families by reading; and all this much as it happens in
+Europe. However, they are all very civil to me; and why should I see
+faults, or be hurt at the absurd stories they tell of me, because they
+don't know me? Besides, 'tis no great affront to be called wiser than
+one is.
+
+_14th_.--Several prizes have arrived from the Moro of San Paulo. One of
+these vessels has brought news from the Moro that I only half like.
+After Lord Cochrane's visit to Bahia on the night of the 12th of June,
+he had been employed for the eight ensuing days in maturing a plan for a
+farther attack, which seemed sure of success; when, on the 20th[113],
+"some careless or malignant person set fire to a cask of spirits, which
+communicated to other casks, and created such terror, that more than a
+hundred persons jumped overboard; some of whom were drowned. It is
+calculated that we should have been blown up if the fire had raged only
+three minutes longer; and its extinction is chiefly to be ascribed to
+the presence of mind and personal exertion of His Lordship himself; who,
+I am grieved to add, was so overheated by the blaze and his own
+exertions, as to be too ill this morning to leave his bed."
+
+[Note 113: Extracted from a letter written to me on the 21st by a
+friend on board.]
+
+_17th_.--At length Bahia has fallen. Madeira, in pursuance of the plans
+announced in his proclamation of the 28th, had prepared all his ships of
+war, and a great number of merchantmen, with provisions, and ammunition,
+and stores: the plate, money, and jewels, were transhipped from the
+English vessels to his own, and it was believed he was to sail on the 3d
+of July. Lord Cochrane, having intelligence to that effect, had come
+alone in the Pedro Primeiro to look into the harbour, on the morning of
+the 2d, when he saw the Portuguese squadron loose all their topsails and
+prepare to move. This manoeuvre was not considered by the English within
+the bay as decisive, because it had been practised daily for some time.
+His Lordship, however, immediately made signals to the Maria de Gloria
+and Nitherohy to join him with all despatch. The Piranga, useless from
+her bad sailing, owing to the state of her copper, had been ordered to
+Rio; and she and the Liberal, who both arrived to-day, are the bearers
+of the official intelligence. Lord Cochrane, whose kindness is
+never-failing, writes to me as follows. I do not like to quote, even in
+my journal, private letters; but this is short, and tells in few words
+all that can be said:--
+
+"MY DEAR MADAM,
+
+"I have been grieved to learn your indisposition; but you must recover,
+now that I tell you we have starved the enemy out of Bahia. The forts
+were abandoned this morning; and the men of war, 13 in number, with
+about 32 sail of transports and merchant vessels, are under sail. We
+shall follow (i.e. the Maria da Gloria and Pedro Primeiro) to the
+world's end. I say again expect good news. Ever believe me your sincere
+and respectful friend,
+
+COCHRANE.
+2d July, 1823.
+Eight miles north of Bahia."
+
+I learn from the officers of the ships arrived, that the guns were all
+spiked, and the magazines blown up in Port Pedro, but otherwise every
+thing was left in good order in the town; and on the marching in of the
+Brazilian troops not the smallest disorder took place, nor was a life
+lost; a circumstance highly honourable to all parties.
+
+Though the Admiral mentions only forty-five vessels, it appears that
+there were many more, amounting to at least eighty, who took the
+opportunity of getting out with the fleet. When the Piranga left the
+Moro, a reinforcement of men had arrived there for the Admiral; and the
+Nitherohy was manning herself, and preparing to follow him in a few
+hours.
+
+This news is highly acceptable here, except among a class either
+secretly attached to, or interested in, Portugal. These are murmuring,
+and saying, "Is it not enough for Lord Cochrane to have driven the poor
+soldiers out of Bahia, without following to persecute them?" &c. And
+others are affecting to despise what they call an easy service. But the
+government knows that it was not an easy service to keep the sea with so
+small a squadron, so recently formed, against a fleet completely armed
+and manned,--vessels of the best class; far less to cut off the
+provisions of the enemy, so as to reduce him to the necessity of
+abandoning his city.
+
+There are illuminations and a gala opera to-night; but as the Emperor is
+not yet able to go, his picture, and that of the Empress, will appear
+instead. It is an old Portuguese custom, I believe, to display the
+picture of the monarch in his absence on occasions of ceremony.
+
+_18th_.--The city has been thrown into considerable agitation to-day, by
+the knowledge, that yesterday the ministry of the Andradas ceased. It
+appears that a few days ago, I believe on the 16th, an unknown person
+presented a letter at the palace-door, and told the servant who received
+it, that his life should not be safe if he did not deliver it into the
+Emperor's own hand. The letter was delivered accordingly, and read; upon
+which His Imperial Majesty sent for Jose Bonifacio: they remained
+closeted for a length of time, and the result of the conference was,
+that Jose Bonifacio resigned his employment; and Brazil has lost an able
+minister, and the Emperor a zealous servant. It is rumoured that the
+letter was written from St. Paul's, and contained at least 300
+signatures of persons complaining of the Andradas' tyrannical conduct in
+that province; particularly imprisoning persons who had opposed the
+election of certain members of the assembly, and ordering others, on
+various pretexts, to repair to Rio, where they had been kept away from
+their families.
+
+These things, however, are capable of a favourable interpretation; and,
+in such stormy times, some severity may have been necessary, or, indeed,
+the zeal of the minister may have carried him too far.[114]
+
+[Note 114: The discussions in the assembly of the 9th of May throw
+much light on this transaction.]
+
+However that may be, the resignation of Jose Bonifacio is certain; and
+not less so that of his brother, Martim Francisco, whose unimpeachable
+integrity at the head of the treasury it will not be easy to supply. The
+conjectures, reasonings, and reports, on these subjects, are, of course,
+very various. The most general idea is, that the Andradas are
+overpowered by a republican party in the assembly; which, though small,
+has a decided plan, and works accordingly; and, oddly enough, their fall
+is said to have been brought about by an attempt, on their part, to get
+rid of old monarchy men. Monis Tavares, a clever man, whose name will be
+remembered in the sittings of the Lisbon Cortes as an advocate for
+Brazil, proposed in an early sitting of the assembly, May 22, the
+absolute expulsion from Brazil of all persons born in Portugal. The
+proposal gave rise to a warm discussion, and was negatived. This defeat
+was the signal for all the Portuguese party, and they are not weak, to
+join with the republicans to overthrow the Andradas; and they have
+succeeded. Such is the view taken of this business by many intelligent
+persons. However the fact may be, the Emperor's feeling to disclaim all
+tyranny or connivance at tyranny, is praiseworthy; but a well-wisher to
+Brazil may be permitted to desire that such able men had proved their
+innocence to his satisfaction, and had retained their situations. This
+evening the Emperor has circulated the following address to his
+people:--
+
+"Inhabitants of Brazil,
+
+"The government which does not guide itself by public opinion, or which
+is ignorant of it, must become the scourge of humanity. The monarch who
+knows not this truth will precipitate his empire into a gulf of
+misfortunes, each more terrible than the preceding. Providence has
+granted to me the knowledge of this truth. I have founded my system on
+it, and to that system I will be faithful.
+
+"Despotism and arbitrary acts are detested by me. It is but a short time
+since that I gave you one among many other proofs of this. We may all be
+deceived; but monarchs rarely hear the truth: if they do not seek it, it
+seldom appears to them. When once they know it, they should follow it. I
+have known it, and I do act accordingly. Although we have not yet a
+fixed constitution to govern ourselves by, we have at least those
+foundations for one, built on reason, which ought to be inviolable.
+These are the sacred rights of personal security, property, and the
+inviolability of the home of every citizen. If these have hitherto been
+violated, it was because your Emperor knew not that such despotism and
+acts of arbitrary power, improper at all times, and contrary to the
+system we profess, were exercised. Be assured that henceforth they shall
+be religiously supported: you shall live happy and safe in the bosoms of
+your families, in the arms of your tender wives, and surrounded by your
+beloved children. In vain shall imprudent men try to belie my
+constitutional principles; they will always triumph, as the sun breaks
+through the darkest clouds. Rely upon me, as I on you, and you will see
+democracy and despotism annihilated by rational liberty.
+
+THE EMPEROR."
+
+The address has been well received; and perhaps those incidents, which,
+in a time like the present, bring the monarch and people more together,
+are really conducive to the harmony and stability of the whole political
+system. Meantime, Jose Joaquim Carneiro de Campos is prime minister, and
+Manoel Jacintho Noguerra de Gama is at the head of the treasury; a man
+so rich as to be above temptation, and whose character for integrity is
+scarcely lower than that of his predecessor.
+
+_July 23d_.--I had for some time promised to paint a sketch of San
+Cristava[)o] for the Empress, and to-day I resolved to carry it to her. So
+I went, and on my way breakfasted at my good friend the Viscondeca do
+Rio Seco's; I then proceeded to the palace, and went up first to enquire
+after the Emperor's health: while I was writing my name, he, having
+perceived me arrive from the window, politely sent to say he would see
+me, and accordingly I was ushered into the presence-chamber by the
+Viador Don Luiz da Ponte; there I saw ministers and generals all in
+state. The Emperor was in a small inner room, where were his piano, his
+shooting apparatus, &c.; he was in an undressed cotton jacket with his
+arm in a sling, but looking well, although thinner and paler than
+formerly: he sent for the little picture, with which he seemed much
+pleased; and after speaking for some time very politely in French, I
+made my courtesy and retired. I then went to the Empress's apartment:
+she was out, but I was asked to wait for her return from her walk; and
+in the meantime I saw the young Princesses, who are extremely fair, and
+like Her Imperial Majesty, especially the eldest, Dona Maria da Gloria,
+who has one of the most intelligent faces I have seen. The Empress came
+in soon, and talked to me a good while on a variety of subjects, and
+very kindly of my late illness. Setting aside the consideration of her
+high rank, it is not a little pleasing to me to meet so well-educated
+and well-bred a woman; and I felt quite sorry to leave her without
+telling her so: she is in all respects an amiable and respectable woman.
+No distressed person ever applies to her in vain; and her conduct, both
+public and private, justly commands the admiration and love of her
+family and subjects: her personal accomplishments would adorn the
+station of a private gentlewoman; her temper, prudence, and courage, fit
+her for her high situation. On my way back to town I stopped at a
+country-house belonging to M. do Rio Seco: it is called Rio Comprido,
+and is remarkable for its garden; the outer hedge of which is like a
+fairy bower, or rather might adorn the gardens of Armida. A fence,
+breast-high, of myrtle and other evergreens, is surmounted by arcades
+of ever-blowing roses; among which a jessamine, or a scarlet or purple
+creeper, twines itself occasionally, enriching the flowery cornice of
+the pillars between which the paths of entrance lie. The inner part one
+might indeed wish less stiff; but then all is kept in such order, and
+filled with such rich flowers and shrubs, that one knows not how the
+change might be made with advantage. The house is low, and pleasant for
+the climate; the orchard, kitchen garden, and grass fields behind,
+delightful; and the whole is surrounded by beautiful views. The Padre
+Jose, who is the chaplain, is also the overseer of the estate; a
+combination of offices that I find is usual here.
+
+After passing some hours there with my hospitable friends, I returned to
+town, and spent an hour with my friend Dona Carlota de Carvalho e Mello,
+and met a number of the ladies of her family; and among the rest, her
+aunt, the wife of Manoel Jacintho, the new minister of finance, one of
+the most pleasing women I have seen in Brazil. I had the pleasure of
+complimenting Dona Carlota's father, on having just received his
+commission as member of the assembly for Bahia, now it is free: I might,
+with truth, have complimented Bahia on so judicious a choice. I returned
+home early, notwithstanding the entreaties of my young friend that I
+would stay, as she considered the evening scarcely begun: the family is
+so large, that, at the house of one or the other, there is always a
+pleasant evening society. The men converse apart till tea-time, after
+which music or dancing brings at least the younger part to join the
+ladies; and it is seldom that they separate before midnight.
+
+_July 25th_.--Our society at Botafogo is enlivened by the arrival of
+Commodore Sir T. Hardy, who occupies the house of the disembargador
+Franca, and who is not only cheerful and sociable himself, but causes
+cheerfulness around him. The officers of his own ship, and those of the
+rest of the squadron, are of course great acquisitions to the parties at
+Rio; but I see little of them: my dull house, and duller self, offering
+nothing inviting except to the midshipmen of my old ship, who visit me
+very constantly. I have bought a small horse[115] for the sake of
+exercise, and sometimes accompany the boys on their evening rides. Last
+night I went with two of them to the Praya Vermelha; and finding the
+officer of the guard at the gate of the fort, we asked leave to go in,
+which being granted, we entered, and walked about admiring the views. It
+was the first time I had seen the little bay Vermelha from the land
+side, the fort being built quite along the isthmus that unites the
+Sugar-loaf with the mainland. We remained without thinking of the time
+till the sun was fairly set; and then, on returning to the gate, we
+found it shut, and that the keys had been carried to the governor. So I
+had to go to the officer of the guard, who understanding what had
+happened, ordered the guard under arms, and went himself for the keys,
+and conducted us out of the fort with great politeness. Wherever I have
+met with Brazilians, from the greatest to the meanest, I must say I have
+always experienced the greatest politeness: from the fidalgo who calls
+on me in full court costume, to the peasant, or the common soldier, I
+have had occasion to admire, and be grateful for, their courtesy.
+
+[Note 115: For this beast, which is really fit for nothing but the
+riding of an invalid like myself, I gave 35 milrees; a price for which,
+in Chile, one might buy a very fine horse.]
+
+_August 1st, 1823_.--The English packet arrived to-day; and brings news
+that the royal party in Lisbon have overpowered that of the Cortes. This
+intelligence is looked on as very important here, because it is hoped
+that the court may be more easily induced to acknowledge the
+independence of Brazil; and it is said that the authorities in Madeira
+have already orders to receive, and treat amicably, ships under the
+Brazilian flag. The general tone of politics here is less pleasing than
+it has been. There have been some disagreeable discussions in the
+assembly: a vote has passed refusing the veto to the Emperor; and it is
+said that the republican party is so elated on the occasion, that they
+think of proposing to refuse him the command of the army. The
+Imperialists are of course indignant at all this. However, we shall see
+what will happen when the deputation of the assembly carries up the
+notice of the vote, as it is said will be done next week, when the
+Emperor will be strong enough to receive it. He is now so well that he
+intends in ten days to return thanks at the church of Santa Maria da
+Gloria, and means on the same day to review the troops at San Cristova[)o].
+They are collecting there for that purpose; and I saw the artillery
+marching that way to-day while I was in town, whither I went to purchase
+some newspapers, particularly the Diario da Assemblea. I take it very
+ill that ladies may not attend the sittings of the assembly, not that I
+know there is any formal prohibition; but the thing is considered as so
+impossible, that I cannot go. It is provided with a gallery? scarcely
+larger in proportion than that of the English House of Commons, for
+strangers; and the proceedings are published. The members speak standing
+in their places: they are something more dressed than the Commons in
+England; but they have no peculiar costume. The President or Speaker is
+changed monthly.
+
+_3d_.--I drank tea at the Baronesa de Campos'; and met a large family
+party, which always assembles on Sundays to pay their respects to the
+old lady. The tea was made by one of the young ladies, with the
+assistance of her sister, just as it would be in England. A large silver
+urn, silver tea-pots, milk-jugs, and sugar-dishes, with elegant china,
+were placed on a large table; round which several of the young people
+assembled, and sent round the tea to us, who sat at a distance. All
+sorts of bread, cakes, buttered toast, and rusks were handed with the
+tea; and after it was removed, sweetmeats of every description were
+presented, after which every body took a glass of water.
+
+_6th_.--Sailed to-day, H.M. ship Beaver, with my friend Mr. Dance as
+acting captain; the world says she takes some very important despatches
+relating to the commerce of England with the independent provinces of La
+Plata; but as the world often tells what is not true, and as what is
+true is never confessed by those who know officially, I never trouble
+myself to ask about these things. I am sorry to see almost my last
+friend leave the station before me: but I am now so used to losing, one
+way or another, all who from any motive have ever acted or felt kindly
+to me, that I hope soon to grow callous to the pain such loss still
+gives. It is in vain that I flatter myself that I have recovered the
+tone of my mind. I am affected even to weakness by every little
+incident, and am obliged to take refuge from my private feelings, in the
+interest that I have lately forced myself to take in the affairs of this
+country; and surely, where the happiness of millions of its
+fellow-creatures is at stake, the human heart may unblamed busy itself.
+
+This morning Sir T. Hardy, who is always anxious to do kind offices,
+carried me to call on Mrs. Chamberlain: I can truly say, if I had known
+her ideas on the subject of etiquette, I should have called on her
+before; and therefore I am glad to do what is expected.[116] She seems
+to be a well-informed woman, with pleasant manners.
+
+[Note 116: Notwithstanding the peculiar circumstances, both on my
+own account and that of the invalid I had with me, of my return to Rio,
+Mrs. C----, the wife of the British consul, took no notice of my
+arrival. I learnt afterwards, that it is expected that women, as well as
+men, should call on the consuls. I was not aware of this, having
+_formerly_ received the first visits in such cases.]
+
+After I returned, I joined a party in a pleasant ride to the _Copa
+Cabana_, a little fort that defends one of the small bays behind that of
+Vermelha, and whence there are to be seen some of the most beautiful
+views here. The woods in the neighbourhood are very fine, and produce a
+great deal of the excellent fruit called the Cambuca; and among the
+hills the small oppossum and the armadillo are frequently found.
+
+_8th_.--The discussions and vote concerning the Emperor's veto have
+excited a great commotion, of words at least; and the English fetchers
+and carriers of news have agreed that there will be some serious
+insurrection on the part of the soldiers, to defend the Emperor from
+some indefinite oppression of the Assembly. I believe it is true that
+the Assembly itself, being convinced that their vote concerning the veto
+is impolitic and unjust, have determined to cancel it; and it is equally
+true, that there have been some military clubs, whose language has been
+rather violent on the subject. But that there are the slightest grounds
+for expecting any serious disturbance, I cannot think. The Emperor
+appears too sincere in his desire to see the greatest possible
+prosperity in Brazil, to encourage any violent proceedings to overawe
+the Constituent Assembly; and at the same time he has too much spirit to
+submit to terms, from any quarter, derogatory to his dignity and rights.
+I have just received his proclamation on the occasion, which I doubt not
+will produce a good effect. These proclamations are agreeable to the
+taste of the people; and in fact are the only channels through which
+they can learn any thing of the disposition of the Emperor in the
+present state of the country. To-day's is as follows:--
+
+"Brazilians!
+
+"On not a few occasions have I laid open to you my mind and my heart: on
+the first you will always find engraven constitutional monarchy, on the
+last your happiness. I am now desirous of giving you a fresh assurance
+of my sentiments, and of my detestation of despotism, whether exercised
+by one or by many.
+
+"Some of the municipalities of the northern provinces have given
+instructions to their deputies, in which the spirit of democracy
+predominates. Democracy in Brazil, in this vast empire, is an absurdity;
+and not less absurd is the pretending to give laws to those who are to
+make them, threatening them with the loss or diminution of powers which
+the constituents neither have given nor have power to give.
+
+"In the city of Porto Alegre, the troops and the people, the junta of
+government and the civil and ecclesiastical authorities, have also just
+committed an error, which they have confirmed, or rather aggravated, by
+solemn oath. Troops which ought to obey the monarch holding a council;
+incompetent authorities defining an article of the constitution, which
+is the business of the General Constituent and Legislative Assembly (and
+such is the veto, whether absolute or suspensive);--are most scandalous
+absurdities, and crimes which would merit the severest punishment, but
+for the consideration that they were suggested by ignorance, or produced
+by base deceptions.
+
+"Listen not therefore to those who flatter the people, or to those who
+flatter the monarch: they are equally base, and moved by personal and
+low interests; and under the mask of liberality or that of servility,
+seek alike, only to rear their proud and precarious fortunes on the
+ruins of their country. The times in which we live are full of
+melancholy warnings. Let us use the catastrophes of foreign nations as
+beacons.
+
+"Brazilians! confide in your Emperor and Perpetual Defender, who seeks
+no legal powers; nor will he ever suffer those to be usurped which
+belong to him of right, and which are indispensable in order that you
+may be happy, and that this empire may fulfil the high destinies suited
+to its boundaries of the wide Atlantic, and the proud floods of the
+Plata and the Amazons. Let us await reverently the constitution of the
+empire, and let us hope that it may be worthy of us.
+
+"May the Supreme Disposer of the Universe grant us union and
+tranquillity, strength and constancy; and the great work of our liberty
+and independence will be accomplished.
+
+THE EMPEROR."
+
+9_th August_.--The day on which the Pes de Chumbo predicted an
+insurrection has passed in perfect tranquillity, excepting for one
+melancholy accident. Their Imperial Majesties, as had been appointed,
+went to the Gloria church to return thanks for the Emperor's recovery.
+They were attended by the officers of state, and of the household, and
+as many officers of the different regiments as could attend. While the
+company were all on their knees, and just as the sacring-bell announced
+the elevation of the Host, the Chamberlain, Magalhaens, was struck with
+apoplexy, and died.
+
+12_th_.--This day, as well as yesterday and the day before, there have
+been illuminations and dressed operas on account of the Emperor's
+recovery; and to-night a vessel, prize to the squadron, arrived,
+bringing news of their wellbeing, and of the arrival of many prizes at
+Bahia and Pernambuco. As officers and men from the Imperial ships cannot
+be spared in sufficient numbers to work the prizes into port, Lord
+Cochrane makes sure of their going thither by starting the water,
+excepting what is sufficient for a certain number of days, and cutting
+away the main and mizen masts, so that they must run for the ports to
+leeward. Seamen will appreciate this.
+
+_August 14th_.--I went with M. Plasson, a very intelligent Frenchman, to
+whom I am indebted for a good deal of information about this country, to
+the museum, which I had seen in a hurried way, on my first visit to Rio.
+It is greatly improved since I was here, both externally and internally.
+The minerals of the country form the richest part of the collection. The
+diamonds, both colourless and black, surpass any thing I have seen; but
+I believe the crystals of gold to be the most precious articles here:
+there are several pieces of native gold, weighing three or four ounces;
+and some beautiful specimens of silver, as fine and as delicate as a
+lady's aigrette. I confess that the fine coloured copper, and the
+beautiful grained iron, pleased me as well as most things: some of the
+latter specimens yield 99 parts of iron. These are from the mines of St.
+Paul's, and I was shown some specimens of coal, as fine as Scotch coal,
+that has been recently discovered in the immediate neighbourhood of
+those very mines. The amethysts, topazes, quartzes of all colours, are
+innumerable: there are beautiful jaspers with veins of gold, and all
+manner of gorgeous works of nature, fit for Aladdin's cave, and the
+insects, especially the butterflies, fit to flit about in it. But the
+other branches of natural history are not rich here. Of birds there are
+few of note, beyond a splendid set of toucans; and of quadrupeds, a few
+monkies, two fawns like the roe-deer[117], and some very curious
+armadillos, are all I remember. The collection of Indian weapons and
+dresses is incomplete, and wants arrangement: this is a pity; for
+by-and-by, as the wild natives adopt civilised habits, these will be
+unattainable. The African curiosities are scarcely better kept, but some
+of them are very curious in their kind. One very remarkable one is a
+king's dress made of ox-gut, not in the state _le valliant des cubes_,
+but carefully cleaned and dried, as we do bladders. It is then split
+longitudinally, and the pieces sewed together, each seam being set with
+tufts or rather fringes of purple feathers; so that the vest is light,
+impervious to rain, and highly ornamental from its rich purple stripes.
+There is another entirely of rich Mazarine blue feathers; a sceptre most
+ingeniously wrought of scarlet feathers; and a cap of bark, with a long
+projecting beak in front, and a quantity of coloured feathers and hair
+behind, ornamented with beads. Besides all these things, there is the
+throne of an African prince of wood, beautifully carved. I could wish,
+since the situation of Brazil is so favourable for collecting African
+costume, that there were a room appropriated to these things, as they
+are curious in the history of man.
+
+[Note 117: I have eaten of the venison, and it is like roe-deer.]
+
+_15th_.--The feast of Our Lady of the Assumption, called here Nossa
+Senhora da Gloria, the patroness of the Emperor's eldest child, is
+celebrated to-day, and of course the whole of the royal family attended
+Mass in the morning and evening. I was spending the day with Mrs. May,
+at her pleasant house on the Gloria hill, and we agreed to go in the
+afternoon to see the ceremony. The church is situated on a platform,
+rather more than half way up a steep eminence overlooking the bay. The
+body is an octagon of thirty-two feet diameter; and the choir, of the
+same shape, is twenty-one feet in diameter. We entered among a great
+crowd of persons, and placed ourselves within the choir; and shortly
+afterwards the Imperial party entered, and I was not disagreeably
+surprised at being most pleasantly recognised. The salutation, as this
+evening's service is called, was well performed as to music, and very
+short: after it, for the first time, I heard a Portuguese sermon. It was
+of course occasional. The text, 1 Kings, chap. ii. ver. 19.--"And the
+king rose up to meet his mother, and bowed himself unto her, and sat
+down on his throne, and caused a seat to be set for the "king's mother,
+and she sat on his right hand." The application of this text to the
+legend of the Assumption is obvious, and occupied the first division of
+the discourse. The second part consisted in an application of the
+history of the early part of Solomon's reign to the present
+circumstances of Brazil; the restoration of the kingdom, the triumph
+over faction, and the institution of laws, forming the grounds of
+comparison. The whole people of Brazil were called upon to join in
+thanksgiving and prayers to the Virgin of Glory: thanksgiving that she
+had given to her people, as rulers, the descendants of the Emanuels, the
+Johns, and the Henrys of Portugal, and of the Maria Theresas of Austria;
+and prayers that she would continue her gracious protection, and that
+most especially to the eldest hope of Brazil, named after her and
+dedicated to her. The whole was gravely and properly done, with as
+little of the appearance of flattery to the illustrious persons present
+as possible, and did not last above fifteen minutes. On this occasion,
+the veadors, and other persons attendant on the Imperial family, wore
+white silk surplices, and bore torches in their hands.
+
+I went in the evening to a ball and concert at the Baronesa de Campos:
+on entering, I was met by the young ladies of the family, and led up to
+their grandmother; and after paying my compliments to her, I was placed
+among the division of the family where I had most acquaintance. There
+were only two Englishwomen besides Lady Cochrane and myself, and these
+were the wives of the consul and the commissioner for the slave
+business. A foreign gentleman present remarked, that though we were but
+four, we hardly conversed together. This was perfectly true: I like,
+when I am in foreign society, to talk to foreigners; and think it
+neither wise nor civil to form coteries with those of one's own nation
+in such cases. Several rooms were open, for cards; the stakes, I fancy,
+were high. The tea-room was no sooner full, than tea was handed round;
+and I perceived that some of the older servants, with great respect
+indeed, spoke to such of the guests as they were acquainted with. After
+tea, I had the pleasure of again hearing Dona Rosa sing, and almost
+grudged my gayer companions their ball, which broke in upon that "sober
+certainty of waking bliss," which music inspires into all, and
+especially to those who have known sorrow. I am no musician; but sweet
+sounds, especially those of the human voice, whether in speaking or
+singing, have a singular power over me.
+
+After the first dance was over, we walked all about the house, and found
+a magnificent dining-room as to size, but scarcely furnished to
+correspond with the rest of the house; the bed-rooms and dressing-rooms
+of the ladies are neat and elegantly fitted up with English and French
+furniture; and all as different as possible from the houses I saw in
+Bahia. I am told that they are likewise as different from what they were
+here twenty years since, and can well believe it; even during the twelve
+months of my absence from Rio, I see a wonderful polishing has taken
+place, and every thing is gaining an European air.
+
+I took the liberty of remarking to one of the ladies, the extreme youth
+of some of the children who accompanied their mothers this evening; and
+saying, that in England we should consider it injurious to them in all
+respects. She asked me what we did with them. I told her that some of
+them would be in bed, and others with their nurses and governesses. She
+said we were happy in that: but that here, there were no such persons,
+and that the children would be left to the care and example of the
+slaves, whose manners were so depraved, and practices so immoral, that
+it must be the destruction of the children; and that those who loved
+their children must keep them under their own eyes, where, if they were
+brought too forward in company, they at least could learn no ill. I love
+to collect these proofs of the evils of slavery--even here where it
+exists in a milder form than in most countries.--I left the dancers
+busily engaged at twelve o'clock, and I heard that they continued the
+ball until three. There is no peculiarity in the dancing here; the
+ladies of Rio being like ourselves, the pupils of the French, in that
+branch of the fine arts.
+
+_19th_.--Sir T. Hardy gave a ball and supper to English, French, and
+Brazilians: where every thing was handsome, and well-ordered; and every
+body pleased.
+
+_20th_.--I had long wished to see a little more of the neighbourhood of
+Rio than I have hitherto done; and had resolved on riding at least to
+Santa Cruz, about fourteen leagues from hence, and as the road is too
+well travelled to fear extraordinary accidents, and I am not timid as to
+common inconveniences, I had determined to hire a black attendant and go
+alone. This determination, however, was over-ruled by Mr. and Mrs. May,
+whose brother, Mr. Dampier, kindly offered to escort me. I confess I was
+very glad to be relieved of the absolute charge of myself, and not a
+little pleased to have the society of a well-bred, intelligent young
+man, whose taste for the picturesque beauties of nature agrees with my
+own.--I think that if there is one decided point in which
+fellow-travellers agree, however different in age, temper, or
+disposition, there may always be peace and pleasant conversation, more
+especially, if, as is our case, they travel on horseback. A difference
+of opinion is so easily evaded by a reference to one's horse, which may
+always go too fast or too slow, or exercise one's tongue or one's whip
+without any offence to one's two-legged companion.--We were well tried
+to-day. I had taken it into my head, that after having postponed our
+journey from week to week on one account or an other, if we did not
+begin it this day we never should go at all: and, therefore, though the
+afternoon was most unpromising, we left Mr. May's at half-past four
+o'clock, that we might reach Campinha, the first stage, to sleep; for,
+alas! these horses are not like my Chilian steeds, that would carry me
+twenty leagues a day without complaining. We mounted then, Mr. Dampier
+on a tall bay horse high in bone, with a brace of pistols buckled round
+him, in a huge straw hat, and a short jacket; I on a little grey horse,
+my boat-cloak over my saddle; otherwise dressed as usual, with a straw
+riding hat, and dark grey habit; and our attendant Antonio, the merriest
+of negroes, on a mule, with Mr. Dampier's portmanteau behind, and my bag
+before him.--We proceeded by the upper part of the town, and along the
+well-trodden road to San Cristova[)o], and after crossing the little hill
+to the left of the palace, entered on a country quite new to me. From
+the western side of the entrance to Rio Janeiro, a high mountainous
+ridge extends close to the sea, as far as the Bay of Angra dos Reyes,
+formed by Ilha Grande and Marambaya. On the northern side of this ridge
+there is a plain, here and there varied by low hills, extending quite to
+the most inland part of Rio de Janeiro, and reaching in a winding
+direction to the bay of Angra dos Reyes: itself having probably at no
+very remote period been covered with water, connecting these two bays,
+and insulating the mountains above mentioned. Along this plain our road
+lay between grand scenery on the one hand, and soft and beautiful
+landscape on the other; but to-night all was dark and louring; the tops
+of the mountains were wrapped in mists, that rushed impetuously down
+their sides, or through their clefts, and every now and then a hollow
+sound of wind came from out of them, though the blast did not quite
+reach us. Under this sort of cloud we passed the picturesque Pedragulha,
+and the little port of Benefica, formed by a creek of the Rio. By the
+time we reached Praya Pequena, where a good deal of produce is embarked
+for the city, the clouds had closed dully in, and the grand mountain
+mists had lost their character. Still we went on, leaving the bay
+entirely: and first we passed the Venda Grande, where every necessary
+for horse or man travelling, is to be sold; then the Capon do Bispo, a
+pretty village, which the rain clouds made me long to stop at; and then
+the stone bridge of Rio de Ferreira, where the rain at length began to
+fall in large cold drops; then tremendous gusts of wind came out of the
+mountain gaps, and long before we reached the Casca d'ouro, the
+protection of cloaks and umbrellas had ceased to avail. There we might
+have stopped; but having been told that the Venda of Campinha was the
+best resting-place, we resolved to proceed, and with some pains
+prevailed on my horse to go on: we reached the venda. But if it be
+delightful, after a long wet ride in a dark and boisterous night, to
+arrive at a place of rest, it is at least as wretched to be turned from
+the door where you hope to find shelter, with dripping clothes and
+shivering limbs; yet such was our fate. There was nothing at the venda
+to eat, no place for us, none for our horses, and so we set out again to
+brave the pitiless storm; a few yards, however, brought us to a low
+cottage on the road side, and there we knocked. A mulatto serving-man
+came round cautiously to reconnoitre from the back of the house, when
+having ascertained that we really were English travellers benighted and
+wet, the front door was opened, and we found within a middle-aged very
+kind-looking woman, and her little daughter; her name is Maria Rosa
+d'Acunha. Her husband and son were absent on business, and she and the
+little girl were alone. As soon as we had changed our wet clothes, and
+had provided for the horses, which our hostess put into an empty
+building, she gave us warm coffee, bread and cheese, and extended her
+hospitable care to the negro. She gave Mr. Dampier her son's bed, and
+made up a couch for me in the room where she and the child slept. These
+people are of the poorest class of farmers, not possessing above four or
+five slaves, and working hard themselves. They appear happy however, and
+I am sure are very hospitable.
+
+_21st_.--This morning looked at least as threatening as yesterday, but
+we determined to go as far as the Engenho dos Affonsos, for whose owner,
+Senhor Joam Marcus Vieira, we had letters from a friend in town.
+Accordingly we took leave of our kind hostess, who had made coffee early
+for us, and proceeded along a league of very pretty road to the
+Affonsos. Where that estate joins Campinha there is a large tiled shed
+where we found a party of travellers, apparently from the mines, drying
+their clothes and baggage after the last night's storm. A priest, and
+two or three men apparently above the common, appeared to be the masters
+of the party; the baggage was piled up on one side of the shed, and the
+arms were stuck into the cordage which bound it. There was a great fire
+in the middle, where a negro was boiling coffee, and several persons
+round drying clothes. Generally speaking, the men we met on their way
+from the mines are a fine, handsome race, lightly and actively made.
+Their dress is very picturesque. It consists of an oval cloak, lined and
+bordered with some bright colour such as rose or apple green, worn as
+the Spanish Americans wear the poncho. The sides are often turned up
+over the shoulders, and display a bright coloured jacket below. The
+breeches are loose, and reach to the knee, and loose boots of brown
+leather are frequently seen on the better sort, though it is very common
+to see the spurs upon the naked heel, and no boot or shoe of any kind.
+The higher classes have generally handsome pistols or great knives, the
+others content themselves with a good cudgel. A short league from the
+last house of Campinha, brought us to Affonsos, where we presented our
+letter, and were most kindly welcomed.--The estate belongs in fact to
+the grandmother of Senhor Joa[)o] Marcus, who is a native of St.
+Catherine's, and a widow. His mother, and sister, and brother, and two
+dumb cousins also reside here, but he is only an occasional visitor,
+being married, and living near his wife's family. The dumb ladies, no
+longer young, are very interesting; they are extremely intelligent,
+understanding most things said in Portuguese by the motion of the lips,
+so that their cousin spoke in French, when he wished to say any thing of
+them; they make themselves understood by signs, many of which, I may say
+most, would be perfectly intelligible to the pupils of Sicard or
+Braidwood. They are part of a family of eight children, four of whom are
+dumb, the dumb and the speakers being born alternately. One of them made
+breakfast for us, which consisted of coffee, and various kinds of bread
+and butter.
+
+After breakfast, as the day continued cold and showery, we were easily
+prevailed on by our host to remain all day at Affonsos. I was indeed
+glad of the opportunity of spending a whole day with a country family.
+The first place we visited after breakfast was the sugar-mill, which is
+worked by mules. The machinery is rather coarse, but seems to answer its
+purpose.
+
+The estate employs 200 oxen and 180 slaves as labourers, besides those
+for the service of the family. The produce is somewhere about 3000
+arobas of sugar, and 70 pipes of spirits. The lands extend from Tapera,
+the place where we met the travellers, and where 200 years ago there was
+an aldea of reclaimed Indians, about a league to Piraquara. There are
+about forty white tenants who keep vendas, and other useful shops on the
+borders of the estate near the roads, and exercise the more necessary
+handicrafts. But a small portion of the estate is in actual cultivation,
+the rest being covered with its native woods; but these are valuable as
+fuel for the sugar-furnaces, and timber for machinery, and occasionally
+for sale. The owners of estates prefer hiring either free blacks, or
+negroes let out by their masters[118], to send into the woods, on
+account of the numerous accidents that happen in felling the trees,
+particularly in steep situations. The death of an estate negro is the
+loss of his value, of a hired negro, only that of a small fine; and of a
+free black, it is often the saving even of his wages, if he has no son
+to claim them.
+
+[Note 118: The wages from a patac and half to two patacs per day,
+besides food.]
+
+Wheat does not grow in this part of Brazil, though in the southern and
+inland mountainous districts it thrives admirably. The luxury of wheaten
+bread is introduced everywhere, North America furnishing the flour.
+Wherever one travels in this neighbourhood, one is sure of excellent
+rusk at every venda, though soft bread is rare.
+
+The sugar-canes are planted here during the months of March, April, May,
+and even June and July. In the ridges between them maize and
+kidney-beans are planted, the cultivation of which is favourable to the
+sugar-cane: first the beans are gathered in, when the ground is weeded,
+and cleared, and loosened around the roots of the canes; then the maize
+is pulled, when a second weeding and clearing takes place; after which
+the sugar is tall enough to shade the ground, and prevent the growth of
+weeds. The first canes are ripe about May. The Cayenne cane yields best,
+and thrives in low grounds, the soil a mixture of sand and loam. The
+Creole cane takes the hill, and, though less productive, is supposed to
+yield sugar of a better quality. The cool months from May to September
+are the properest for boiling sugar. After October, the canes yield less
+juice by one-eighth, sometimes by one-fourth, and nearly as much more
+is lost in claying by the lightness of the sugar, the pots of three
+arobas not returning after the operation more than two and a half at
+most. The clay used in refining the sugar is dug close to the mill; it
+feels soft and fat in the fingers. It is placed in a wooden trough, with
+a quantity of lie made by steeping the twigs of a small shrub, which has
+a taste of soda[119], and worked up and down with a machine, something
+like a churn-staff, until it is of the consistence of thick cream, when
+it is ready for use. I suppose that the main business of expressing the
+juice, boiling it, and drying the sugars, as well as cleansing them, are
+carried on here as in every part of the world, though probably there may
+be some difference in every country, or even in every sugar-work; nor
+can the distilling the spirits be very different. Nothing is wasted in a
+sugar-house; the trash that remains after the canes are pressed, when
+dried, assists as fuel in heating the furnaces; the sweet refuse water
+that runs off from the still is eagerly drank by the oxen, who always
+seem to fatten on it.
+
+[Note 119: This is brought to the Engenhos of the district from the
+lake of Jacarepagua. I had no opportunity of seeing the whole plant.]
+
+By the time we had examined the sugar-work, and seen the garden, it was
+two o'clock, and we were summoned to dinner. Every thing was excellent
+in its kind, with only a little more garlic than is used in English
+cookery. On the side-table there was a large dish of dry farinha, which
+the elder part of the family called for and used instead of bread. I
+preferred the dish of farinha moistened with broth, not unlike brose,
+which was presented along with the bouillie and sliced saussage after
+the soup. The mutton was from the estate, small and very sweet. Every
+thing was served up on English blue and white ware. The table-cloths and
+napkins were of cotton diaper, and there was a good deal of plate used,
+but not displayed. After dinner some of the family retired to the
+siesta; others occupied themselves in embroidery, which is very
+beautiful, and the rest in the business of the house, and governing the
+female in-door slaves, who have been mostly born on the estate, and
+brought up in their mistress's house. I saw children of all ages and
+colours running about, who seemed to be as tenderly treated as if they
+had been of the family. Slavery under these circumstances is much
+alleviated, and more like that of the patriarchal times, where the
+purchased servant became to all intents one of the family. The great
+evil is, that though perhaps masters may not treat their slaves ill,
+they have the power of doing so; and the slave is subject to the worst
+of contingent evils, namely, the caprice of a half-educated, or it may
+be an ill-educated master. Were all slaves as well off as the house
+slaves of Affonsos, where the family is constantly resident, and nothing
+trusted to others, the state of the individuals might be compared with
+advantage to that of free servants. But the best is impossible, and the
+worst but too probable; since the unchecked power of a fallible being
+may exercise itself without censure on its slaves.
+
+One of the dumb ladies made tea, and afterwards we passed a couple of
+hours at a round game of cards, where the sisters felt themselves quite
+on an equality with the speakers, and enjoyed themselves accordingly. I
+remember an account given by Bishop Burnet in his Travels, of a dumb
+lady who had invented a way of communicating with her sister, even in
+the dark, before the instruction of such unfortunate persons had become
+an object of public attention. Some such method these ladies possess of
+discoursing together, and of making themselves understood by their young
+cousin, an intelligent girl, who is always at hand to interpret for
+them. They have also invented arbitrary signs for the names of the
+flowers and plants in their garden, which signs all the family know; and
+I was delighted with the quickness and precision with which they
+conversed on every subject within their knowledge.
+
+The cards made way for the supper, a meal almost as ceremonious, and
+quite as constant, as the dinner. After it, toasted cheese was
+introduced, with girdle cakes of farinha freshly toasted, and spread
+with a very little Irish butter; they are the same as the Casava bread
+of the West Indies, but prepared here are more like Scotch oat-cakes.
+On retiring to my room at night, a handsome young slave entered, with a
+large brass pan of tepid water, and a fringed towel over her arm, and
+offered to wash my feet. She seemed disappointed when I told her I never
+suffered any body to do that for me, or to assist me in undressing at
+any time. In the morning she returned, and removing the foot bath,
+brought fresh towels, and a large embossed silver basin and ewer, with
+plenty of tepid water; which she left without saying a word, and told
+her mistress I was a very quiet person, and, she supposed, liked nobody
+but my own people, so she would not disturb me.
+
+_Friday, August 22d_.--The day as fine as possible; and after breakfast
+we pursued our journey to Santa Cruz, the road improving in beauty as we
+proceeded.
+
+    "Here lofty trees to ancient song unknown,
+    The noble sons of potent heat, and floods
+    Prone rushing from the clouds, rear'd high to heav'n
+    Their thorny stems, and broad around them threw
+    Meridian gloom."
+
+And above all these the mountains rose in the distance, and lower hills
+more near, between which, long valleys stretched themselves till the eye
+could follow them no farther; and the foregrounds were filled up with
+gigantic aloes, streams, and pools, and groups of passing cattle and
+their picturesquely clad conductors. Near Campo Grande, the scenery is
+diversified by several little green plains, with only an insulated tree
+here and there, decorated with air plants in bloom, and scarlet
+creepers. Beyond this lies one of the most beautiful spots I ever saw,
+namely, Viaga; where the rocks, trees, plains, and buildings, seem all
+placed on purpose to be admired. Having loitered a little to admire it,
+we rode on to the New Freguezia of Sant Antonio, where we stopped at a
+very neat venda to rest and feed our horses. The church is on a little
+hill, overlooking a very pretty country and a neat village, but the
+greater part of the parish is very distant. While the horses were eating
+their maize, we procured for ourselves some rusk, cheese from the
+province of Minas exactly like Scotch kebbuck, and port wine from the
+cask of excellent quality. These provisions are always to be had, with
+beans, bacon, and dried beef. But the hospitality of a Brazilian inn
+does not extend to cooking food for travellers, who generally carry the
+utensils for that purpose with them, and who in some shed attached to
+the inn cook for themselves, and generally sleep in the same shed. At
+Sant Antonio there are decent sleeping-rooms provided with benches and
+mats, to which the guests add what bedding they please; but travellers
+commonly wrap themselves in their cloaks, and so rest. As soon as our
+horses were ready, we rode on to Mata Paciencia, the engenho of Dona
+Mariana, the eldest daughter of the Baroness de Campos, and to whom we
+had a letter of introduction. Here we met with a most polite reception
+from a handsome ladylike woman, whom we found attending to her engenho,
+which is indeed an interesting one. We were received at first by the
+chaplain, a polite and well-informed person; and with him was the
+chaplain of Santa Cruz, who having been formerly a professor in the
+college at Rio, is commonly known by the name of the Padre Mestre.
+
+Dona Mariana led us into the engenho, where we had seats placed near the
+rollers, which are worked by an eight-horse power steam-engine, one of
+the first, if not the very first, erected in Brazil. There are here 200
+slaves, and as many oxen, in constant employ. The steam-engine, besides
+the rollers in the sugar-house, moves several saws; so that she has the
+advantage of having her timber prepared almost without expense. While we
+were sitting by the machine, Dona Mariana desired the women, who were
+supplying the canes, to sing, and they began at first with some of their
+own wild African airs, with words adopted at the moment to suit the
+occasion. She then told them to sing their hymns to the Virgin; when,
+regularly in tune and time, and with some sweet voices, the evening and
+other hymns were sung; and we accompanied Dona Mariana into the house,
+where we found that while we had been occupied in looking at the
+machinery, the boilers, and the distillery, dinner had been prepared for
+us, though it was long after the family hour. On our departure, we were
+hospitably pressed to return on our way back to Rio, which we, "nothing
+loath," promised to do.
+
+It was quite dark long before we reached Santa Cruz, and exceedingly
+cold: when there, we easily found the house of the gentleman to whom we
+had a letter of introduction, the Capita[)o] de Fragata Joam da Cruz de
+Reis, who is the superintendant of the palace and estate. The Visconde
+do Rio Seco had kindly furnished us with this letter, and mentioned that
+the object of the journey was mere curiosity, so that the Capita[)o] told
+us that he would next day do all he could to satisfy us. Soon after our
+arrival, several persons dropped in to converse half an hour; among the
+rest, a surgeon, who comes from Rio once a year to vaccinate the
+children born in the twelve-months on the estate. The Padre Mestre and
+another friar also came in; and I soon found that Santa Cruz has its
+politics and gossip as well as the city, all the difference being in a
+little more or less refinement. Nothing can exceed the good-humoured
+hospitality of our host and hostess, who soon made us feel quite at
+home; and by the time tea was over, we were quite initiated into all the
+ways of the house and the village.
+
+_Saturday, 23d_.--The morning was excessively cold but clear, and the
+view of the extensive plains of Santa Cruz, with the herds of cattle
+upon it, most magnificent. The pasture, which extends many leagues on
+each side of the little hill on which the palace and village are
+situated, is here and there varied by clumps of natural wood; the
+horizon extends to the sea in one direction, and every where else the
+view is bounded by mountains or woody hills. The palace itself occupies
+the site of the old Jesuits' college. Three sides are modern: the fourth
+contains the handsome chapel of the very reverend fathers, and a few
+tolerable apartments. The new part was built for King John VI., but the
+works were stopped on his departure. The apartments are handsome, and
+comfortably furnished. In this climate hangings, whether of paper or
+silk, are liable to speedy decay from damp and insects. The walls are
+therefore washed with a rich creamy white clay, called Taboa
+Tinga[120], and cornices and borders painted on them in distemper. Some
+of these are exceedingly beautiful in design, and generally very well
+executed, the arabesques of the friezes being composed of the fruits,
+flowers, birds, and insects of the country. One of the rooms represents
+a pavilion; and between the open pilasters, the scenery round Santa Cruz
+is painted, not well indeed, but the room is pleasant and cheerful. The
+artists employed were chiefly mulattoes and creole negroes.
+
+[Note 120: Taboa tinga, a very fine white clay, proper for making
+porcelain, very abundant in Brazil, and, as far as I can judge, the same
+as is found in the valleys of Chile.]
+
+After breakfast, we rode along the causeway that crosses the plain of
+Santa Cruz, to the Indian aldea of San Francisco Xavier de Itaguahy,
+commonly called Taguahy, formed by the Jesuits not very long before
+their expulsion. The situation of the aldea and church is extremely
+fine; on the summit of a hill overlooking a rich plain, watered by a
+navigable river, and surrounded by mountains. We entered several of the
+huts of the Indians, whom I had understood to be of the Guaranee nation.
+I enquired of one of the women, in whose hut I sat down, if she knew
+whence her tribe came: she said no; she had been brought, when a mere
+child, from a great distance to Taguahy, by the fathers of the company;
+that her husband had died when she was young; that she and her daughters
+had always lived there; but her sons and grandsons, after the fathers of
+the company went, had returned to their fathers, by which she meant that
+they had resumed their savage life. This is not surprising. The Indians
+here must work for others, and become servants; a state they hardly
+distinguish from slavery. Besides, slaves are plentiful; and as the
+negro is hardier than the Indian, his labour is more profitable;
+therefore, a willing Indian does not always find a master. The produce
+of his little garden, or his fishing, is rarely sufficient for his
+family; and without the protection of the priest, whose chief favour was
+procuring constant occupation, the half-reclaimed savage droops, and
+flies again to the liberty of his forest, to his unrestrained hunting
+and fishing. The Chilian Indians rarely or never return to their forests
+when their villages are once formed; but that depends on circumstances,
+which have nothing in common with the state of Brazil. Many of the
+Indian women have married the creole Portuguese; intermarriages between
+creole women and Indian men are more rare. The children of such couples
+are prettier, and appear to me to be more intelligent, than the pure
+race of either. The Indian huts at Taguahy are very poor; barely
+sufficient in walls and roof to keep out the weather, and furnished with
+little besides hammocks and cooking utensils; yet we were every where
+asked to go in and sit down: all the floors were cleanly swept, and a
+log of wood or a rude stool was generally to be found for a seat for the
+stranger, the people themselves squatting on the ground.
+
+At the foot of the hill of Taguahy there is a very fine ingenho, sold by
+King Joam VI. to one de Barros; the rollers are worked by a horizontal
+water-wheel about twenty-two feet in diameter, turned by the little
+stream Taguahy. The quantity of sugar made in a given time is something
+more than that produced by the steam-engine at Mata Paciencia, the
+number of slaves employed being the same.
+
+After we had admired the neatness of the engenho and the beauty of the
+situation sufficiently, we left Taguahy to return to Santa Cruz, and
+re-crossed the river Guandu, where there is a guard-house by the bridge,
+where passes from the police are required from ordinary travellers; but
+as we had a servant from Santa Cruz with us, we were not questioned. The
+Guandu rises in the mountain of Marapicu, in the barony of Itanhae; and
+having received the Tingui, it passes to the engenho of Palmares,
+occupied by the Visconde de Merendal; where there is a wharf where the
+produce of the neighbouring estates is embarked, and conveyed to
+Sepetiva, a little port in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, where it is
+shipped for Rio, the passage thither being generally of twenty-four
+hours.
+
+In 1810 there was an intention of uniting the Guandu with the Itaipu by
+a short canal; by which means the produce, not only of this district,
+but of the Ilha Grande, would have been conveyed directly to Rio,
+without the risk of the navigation outside of the harbour: I know not
+why the project was abandoned.
+
+Every time I pass through a grove in Brazil, I see new flowers and
+plants, and a richness of vegetation that seems inexhaustible. To-day I
+saw passion-flowers of colours I never observed before; green, pink,
+scarlet, and blue: wild pine apples, of beautiful crimson and purple:
+wild tea, even more beautiful than the elegant Chinese shrub:
+marsh-palms, and innumerable aquatic plants, new to me: and in every
+little pool, wild-ducks, water-hens, and varieties of storks, were
+wading about in graceful pride. At every step I am inclined to exclaim
+with the minstrel--
+
+    "Oh nature, how in every charm supreme!
+      Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new:
+    Oh, for the voice and fire of seraphim
+      To paint thy glories with devotion due!"
+
+After dinner I walked about a little in the village of the negroes.
+There are, I believe, about fifteen hundred on the estate, the greater
+part of whom belong to the outlying farms or feitorias, of which there
+are, I believe, three; Bom Jardin, Piperi, and Serra: these yield
+coffee, feijo[)a], and maize. The immediate neighbourhood of Santa Cruz is
+appropriated to the rearing of cattle, of which there are this year
+about four thousand head; and a good deal of pasture land is annually
+let. The negroes of Santa Cruz are not fed and clothed by the Emperor,
+but they have their little portions of land; and they have half of
+Friday, all Saturday and Sunday, and every holiday, to labour for
+themselves; so that they at most work for their master four days, in
+return for their house and land; and some even of the external marks of
+slavery are removed, as the families feed and clothe themselves without
+the master's interference. The Emperor has appropriated great part of a
+very commodious building, erected by his father for the royal stud, to
+the purpose of an hospital. I visited it, and found a white surgeon and
+black assistant; decent beds, and well-ventilated apartments: the
+kitchen was clean, and the broth, which was all I found cooked at the
+time of night when I was there, good: there were about sixty patients,
+most of them merely for sores in their feet, some from giggers, others a
+sort of leprosy from working in damp grounds, and a few with
+elephantiases; fevers are very rare; pulmonary complaints not uncommon.
+Several of the inmates of the hospital were there merely from old age;
+one was insane; and there was a large ward of women, with young
+children: so that, on the whole, I consider the hospital as affording a
+proof of the healthiness of the negroes of Santa Cruz.
+
+_Sunday, 24th_, presented a very respectable congregation on its way to
+the chapel of Santa Cruz. There were all the officers belonging to the
+palace, with their wives and families; also the shopkeepers of the
+village and neighbourhood, besides a good many of the negro people; all
+of them, I think, better dressed than persons of the same class
+elsewhere in this part of Brazil.
+
+I walked up to the tea-gardens, which occupy many acres of a rocky hill,
+such as I suppose may be the favourite _habitat_ of the plant in China.
+The introduction of the culture of tea into Brazil was a favourite
+project of the King Joam VI., who brought the plants and cultivators at
+great expense from China. The tea produced both here and at the botanic
+gardens is said to be of superior quality; but the quantity is so small,
+as never yet to have afforded the slightest promise of paying the
+expense of culture. Yet the plants are so thriving, that I have no doubt
+they will soon spread of themselves, and probably become as natives. His
+Majesty built Chinese gates and summer-houses to correspond with the
+destination of these gardens; and, placed where they are, among the
+beautiful tea-shrubs, whose dark shining leaves and myrtle-like flowers
+fit them for a parterre, they have no unpleasing effect. The walks are
+bordered on either hand with orange trees and roses, and the garden
+hedge is of a beautiful kind of mimosa; so that the China of Santa Cruz
+forms really a delightful walk. The Emperor, however, who perceives that
+it is more advantageous to sell coffee and buy tea, than to grow it at
+such expense, has discontinued the cultivation.
+
+Our hospitable friends the Capita[)o] and his lady would not allow us to
+leave them till after dinner, having invited several persons to do
+honour to us, and to a sumptuous feast they had prepared, where every
+good thing that can be named was present. However, due honour having
+been done to the table, we took our leave; and at about four o'clock or
+a little earlier set off for Mata Paciencia, where we arrived a little
+before sunset.
+
+On our arrival we went with Dona Mariana and the chaplain into the
+garden, which unites the flower, kitchen-garden, and orchard in one.
+Oranges and roses, cabbage and tobacco, melons and leeks, neighboured
+each other, as if they belonged to the same climate; and all were
+thriving among numbers of weeds, of which the wholesome calliloo and the
+splendid balsam attracted my eye most. A side-door in the garden let us
+into a beautiful field, whither chairs were brought, that we might sit
+and enjoy the freshness of the evening. Overhanging that field there is
+a steep hill, on whose side a great deal of wood has been cleared away,
+and the gardens and coffee plots of the negroes occupy the ground. This
+day--and blessed be the Sabbath!--is the negroes' own: after morning
+Mass they are free to do their own will; and then most of them run to
+the hill to gather their coffee or maize, or prepare the ground for
+these or other vegetables. They were just beginning to return from the
+wood, each with his little basket laden with something of his own,
+something in which the master had no share; and again and again as they
+passed me, and displayed with glistening eye the little treasure, I
+blessed the Sabbath, the day of freedom to the slave. Presently the last
+few stragglers dropped in. The sun by this time was only the tops of the
+hills. The cattle flocked in from the pasture, and lowed impatiently at
+the gate of the corral: we opened it, and passed in with them, and
+crossed the court where the negroes live. All was bustle there: they
+were bargaining with a huckster, who, knowing the proper hour, had
+arrived to buy the fresh-picked coffee. Some sold it thus; others chose
+to keep it and dry it, and then to take the opportunity of one of the
+lady's messengers to town and send it thither, where it sells at a
+higher price. I do not know when I have passed so pleasant an evening.
+
+After supper I had a great deal of conversation with Dona Mariana
+concerning the sugar-work, the cultivation of the cane, and the slaves,
+confirming what I had learnt at Affonsos. She also tells me, as I had
+heard before, that the Creole negroes are less docile and less active
+than the new negroes. I think both facts may be accounted for without
+having recourse to the influence of climate. The new negro has the
+education of the slave-ship and the market, the lash being administered
+to drill him; so that when bought he is docile from fear, active from
+habit. The creole negro is a spoiled child, till he is strong enough to
+work; then, without previous habits of industry, he is expected to be
+industrious, and having eaten, drunk, and run about on terms of familiar
+equality, he is expected to be obedient; and where no moral feelings
+have been cultivated, he is expected to show his gratitude for early
+indulgence by future fidelity. Dona Mariana tells me, that not half the
+negroes born on her estate live to be ten years old. It would be worth
+while to enquire into the cause of this evil, and whether it is general.
+
+I conversed also a good while with the chaplain on the general state of
+the country. He is a native of Pernambuco; of course a staunch
+independent. * * * It is needless to say that every thing in the manner
+of living at Mata Paciencia is not only agreeable but elegant. And if
+the stories of older travellers concerning the country life of the
+Brazilians be true, the change has been most rapid and complete.
+
+_25th August_.--- I was very sorry to leave Mata Paciencia this morning
+when it was time to return; however, the hour came, and we departed for
+Affonsos.
+
+On the road we stopped to make some sketches, and at Campo Grande to
+refresh our horses; and were glad ourselves, as the day was pretty cool,
+to partake of a beef-steak which the good woman of the house cooked
+according to our directions, the first she had ever seen, regretting all
+the time that their own dinner was over, and that there was not time to
+boil or roast for us. But hospitality seems the temper of the country.
+
+On our arrival at Affonsos we were received as old friends, and much
+pressed to stay a couple of days, in order to make excursions to some
+picturesque spots in the neighbourhood, which I would fain have done,
+but my young friend, Mr. Dampier, could not spare the time; so I was
+obliged to content myself with only hearing of the beauties of the lake
+of Jacarepagua, and N.S. da Pena, &c.
+
+26_th._--We left Affonsos by times this morning, and shortly afterwards
+met an original-looking group of travellers. First came rather a
+handsome woman, in a blue joseph and broad black hat, riding astride;
+then three gentlemen in Indian file, all natural Falstaffs, in enormous
+straw hats, and mounted on good well-groomed horses; next followed the
+lady's maid, also astride, with her mistress's portmanteau buckled
+behind her; and behind her the valet, with three leathern bags hanging
+to his saddle by long straps, so as to swing as low as the stirrups, and
+whose size and shape denoted the presence of at least a clean shirt;
+and, lastly, a bare-headed slave with two mules, one laden with baggage
+and provisions, and the other as a relay. They all saluted us gravely
+and courteously as they passed; and I thought I had gotten among some of
+Gil Blas' travellers in the neighbourhood of Oviedo or Astorga, so
+completely did they differ from any thing usual with us.
+
+We stopped, of course, at Campinha, to call on our hospitable hostess,
+Senhora Maria Rosa, and found her at a neighbour's house; whither we
+followed her, and found her surrounded by four of the prettiest women I
+have seen in Brazil. From the veranda, where we sat talking with them
+for some time, we had leisure to admire the country about Campinha,
+which was totally obscured the first time we passed by rain. It is of
+the same beautiful character with the rest we have seen, being
+distinguished by a new mud fort, now building on a little insulated
+knoll, which commands the road through the hills, and by the plain to
+the capital. The want of some such point of defence was felt when Du
+Clerc landed in the bay of Angra dos Reyes, at the beginning of the last
+century, and marched without stop to the city.
+
+After feeding our horses at the very pretty station of Rio Ferreira, we
+proceeded homewards; and arrived at Mr. May's in good time to dinner,
+having had a very pleasant excursion, and, on my part, seeing more of
+Brazil and Brazilians in these few days, passed entirely out of English
+reach, than in all the time I had been here before.
+
+On my arrival at home I found news from Lord Cochrane of the 9th July,
+in latitude 6 deg. S., longitude 32 deg. W.; when half the army, colours,
+ammunition, and stores of Madeira had fallen into his hands, and he was
+in pursuit of the rest, intending afterwards to follow the Joa[)o] VI. and
+frigates. Should he be able to separate them, no doubt he will capture
+them; but alone, under his circumstances, against them, so armed and
+manned, I fear it will be impossible.--He has already effected more than
+could have been expected, or perhaps than any commander besides himself
+could have done. He attributes much to the imprudence, or imbecility of
+the enemy, whose plan of saving an army he likens to Sterne's marble
+sheet. However, others are just enough to him, to feel that no faults of
+the enemy's commander lessen his merit, or obscure the courage necessary
+to follow up, attack, and take half at least of a fleet of seventy
+sail,[121] well found and provisioned, and full of veteran troops.
+
+[Note 121: It is now certain that Joa[)o] Felix had at least that
+number.]
+
+There is a letter from Lord Cochrane to the magistrates of Pernambuco
+published in the gazette. His Lordship, after mentioning his success,
+and stating his want of seamen, says, "We must have sailors to end the
+war. If Your Excellencies will give 24 milrees bounty, as at Rio de
+Janeiro, drawing on government for the same, you will do a great service
+to the country. I do not say Portuguese sailors, who are enemies; but
+sailors of _any other nation_."
+
+His Lordship mentions farther in his letters to Pernambuco, that his
+reasons for rather following up the transports at first, instead of the
+ships of war, which were the objects he had most at heart, were, lest
+the troops should land, as they had threatened, in some other port of
+Brazil, and commit new hostilities in the empire. And he concludes with
+announcing that he sends several flags taken from the enemy.
+
+_August 29th._--To-day I received a visit from Dona Maria de Jesus, the
+young woman who has lately distinguished herself in the war of the
+Reconcave. Her dress is that of a soldier of one of the Emperor's
+battalions, with the addition of a tartan kilt, which she told me she
+had adopted from a picture representing a highlander, as the most
+feminine military dress. What would the Gordons and MacDonalds say to
+this? The "garb of old Gaul," chosen as a womanish attire!--Her father
+is a Portuguese, named Gonsalvez de Almeida, and possesses a farm on the
+Rio do Pex, in the parish of San Jose, in the Certa[)o], about forty
+leagues inland from Cachoeira. Her mother was also a Portuguese; yet the
+young woman's features, especially her eyes and forehead, have the
+strongest characteristics of the Indians. Her father has another
+daughter by the same wife; since whose death he has married again, and
+the new wife and the young children have made home not very comfortable
+to Dona Maria de Jesus. The farm of the Rio do Pex is chiefly a cattle
+farm, but the possessor seldom knows or counts his numbers. Senhor
+Gonsalvez, besides his cattle, raises some cotton; but as the Certa[)o] is
+sometimes a whole year without rain, the quantity is uncertain. In wet
+years he may sell 400 arobas, at from four to five milrees; in dry
+seasons he can scarcely collect above sixty or seventy arobas, which may
+fetch from six to seven milrees. His farm employs twenty-six slaves.
+
+The women of the interior spin and weave for their household, and they
+also embroider very beautifully. The young women learn the use of
+fire-arms, as their brothers do, either to shoot game or defend
+themselves from the wild Indians.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Dona Maria told me several particulars concerning the country, and more
+concerning her own adventures. It appears, that early in the late war of
+the Reconcave, emissaries had traversed the country in all directions,
+to raise patriot recruits; that one of these had arrived at her father's
+house one day about dinner time; that her father had invited him in, and
+that after their meal he began to talk on the subject of his visit. He
+represented the greatness and the riches of Brazil, and the happiness to
+which it might attain if independent. He set forth the long and
+oppressive tyranny of Portugal; and the meanness of submitting to be
+ruled by so poor and degraded a country. He talked long and eloquently
+of the services Don Pedro had rendered to Brazil; of his virtues, and
+those of the Empress: so that at the last, said the girl, "I felt my
+heart burning in my "breast." Her father, however, had none of her
+enthusiasm of character. He is old, and said he neither could join the
+army himself, nor had he a son to send thither; and as to giving a slave
+for the ranks, what interest had a slave to fight for the independence
+of Brazil? He should wait in patience the result of the war, and be a
+peaceable subject to the winner. Dona Maria stole from home to the house
+of her own sister, who was married, and lived at a little distance. She
+recapitulated the whole of the stranger's discourse, and said she wished
+she was a man, that she might join the patriots. "Nay," said the sister,
+"if I had not a husband and children, for one half of what you say I
+would join the ranks for the Emperor." This was enough. Maria received
+some clothes belonging to her sister's husband to equip her; and as her
+father was then about to go to Cachoeira to dispose of some cottons, she
+resolved to take the opportunity of riding after him, near enough for
+protection in case of accident on the road, and far enough off to escape
+detection. At length being in sight of Cachoeira, she stopped; and going
+off the road, equipped herself in male attire, and entered the town.
+This was on Friday. By Sunday she had managed matters so well, that she
+had entered the regiment of artillery, and had mounted guard. She was
+too slight, however, for that service, and exchanged into the infantry,
+where she now is. She was sent hither, I believe, with despatches, and
+to be presented to the Emperor, who has given her an ensign's
+commission and the order of the cross, the decoration of which he
+himself fixed on her jacket.
+
+She is illiterate, but clever. Her understanding is quick, and her
+perceptions keen. I think, with education she might have been a
+remarkable person. She is not particularly masculine in her appearance,
+and her manners are gentle and cheerful. She has not contracted any
+thing coarse or vulgar in her camp life, and I believe that no
+imputation has ever been substantiated against her modesty. One thing is
+certain, that her sex never was known until her father applied to her
+commanding officer to seek her.
+
+There is nothing very peculiar in her manners at table, excepting that
+she eats farinha with her eggs at breakfast and her fish at dinner,
+instead of bread, and smokes a segar after each meal; but she is very
+temperate.
+
+Sept. 8_th_, 1823.--I went with Mr. Hoste and Mr. Hately, of His
+Majesty's ship Briton, to Praya Grande, to see a party of Botecudo
+Indians, who are now there on a visit. As it is desired to civilise
+these people by every possible means, whenever they manifest a wish to
+visit the neighbourhood of the city, they are always encouraged and
+received kindly, fed to their hearts' content, and given clothes, and
+such trinkets and ornaments as they value. We saw about six men, and ten
+women, with some young children. The faces are rather square, with very
+high cheek-bones, and low contracted foreheads. Some of the young women
+are really pretty, of a light copper-colour, which glows all over when
+they blush; and two of the young men were decidedly handsome, with very
+dark eyes, (the usual colour of the eyes is hazel,) and aquiline noses;
+the rest were so disfigured by the holes cut in their lower lips and
+their ears to receive their barbarous ornaments, that we could scarcely
+tell what they were like. I had understood that the privilege of thus
+beautifying the face was reserved for the men,[122] but the women of
+this party were equally disfigured. We purchased from one of the men a
+mouth-piece, measuring an inch and a half in diameter. The ornaments
+used by these people are pieces of wood perfectly circular, which are
+inserted into the slit of the lip or ear, like a button, and are
+extremely frightful, especially when they are eating. It gives the mouth
+the appearance of an ape's; and the peculiar mumping it occasions is so
+hideously unnatural, that it gives credit to, if it did not originally
+suggest, the stories of their cannibalism.[123] The mouth is still more
+ugly without the lip-piece, the teeth appearing, and saliva running
+through.
+
+[Note 122: See Southy's Brazil, for the manners of the Tupayas. I am
+not sufficiently acquainted with the filiation of the Indian tribes, to
+know what relation the Botecudos bear to the Tupayas.]
+
+[Note 123: Perhaps all the Indians may have been so far cannibals,
+as to taste of the flesh of prisoners taken in battle, or victims
+offered to the gods; but I cannot believe that any ever fed habitually
+on human flesh, for many reasons. But their traducers had their reasons
+for inventing and propagating the most atrocious falsehoods, as a sort
+of excuse for their own barbarity in hunting and making slaves of them.
+These practices, indeed, were so wicked, and so notorious, that in 1537,
+the Dominican Frey Domingos de Becancoo, provincial of the order in
+Mexico, sent Frey Domingos de Menaja to Rome to plead the cause of the
+Indians before Paul III.; who having heard _both sides_, pronounced that
+"The Indians of America are men of rational soul, of the same nature and
+species as all others, capable of the sacraments of the holy church, and
+consequently free by nature, and lords of their own actions."]
+
+When we entered the room where the savages are lodged, most of them were
+lying in mats on the floor; some on their faces, and some on their
+backs. Three of the women were suckling their infants, and these were
+dressed only in coarse cotton petticoats; the rest of the females had
+cotton frocks, the men shirts and trousers, given them on their arrival
+here. As they are usually naked in the woods, their garments seemed to
+sit uneasily on them: their usual motions seemed slow and lazy; but when
+roused, there was a springy activity hardly fitting a human being, in
+all they did. They begged for money; and when we took out a few vintems,
+the women crowded round me, and pinched me gently to attract my
+attention. They had learned a few words of Portuguese, which they
+addressed to us, but discoursed together in their own tongue, which
+seemed like a series of half-articulate sounds.
+
+They had brought some of their bows and arrows with them of the rudest
+construction. The bow is of hard wood, with only two notches for the
+string. The arrows are of cane; some are pointed only with hard wood,
+others with a flat bit of cane tied with bark to the end of the hard
+wood: these arrows are five feet long; and I saw one of them penetrate
+several inches into the trunk of a tree, when shot by an Indian from his
+bow. I purchased one bow and two arrows. Most of these people had their
+hair closely clipped, excepting a tuft on the fore part of the head; and
+the men, who had slit their lips, had also pulled out their beards. The
+two handsome lads had cut their hair; but they had neither cut their
+lips nor pulled their beards. I tried to learn if this was a step
+towards civilisation, or if it was only that they had not reached the
+age when the ceremony of lip-slitting, &c. is practised, the interpreter
+attending them not being able to explain any thing but what concerns
+their commonest wants and actions.
+
+_September 9th._--I took two very fine Brazilian boys, who are about to
+enter the Imperial naval service, to spend the day at the botanical
+garden, which appears in much better order than when I saw it two years
+ago. The hedge-rows of the Bencoolen nut (_Vernilzia Montana_) are
+prodigiously grown: the Norfolk Island pine has shot up like a young
+giant, and I was glad to find many of the indigenous trees had been
+placed here; such as the _Andraguoa_, the nut of which is the strongest
+known purge; the _Cambuca_, whose fruit, as large as a russet apple, has
+the sub-acid taste of the gooseberry, to which its pulp bears a strong
+resemblance; the _Japatec-caba_, whose fruit is scarcely inferior to the
+damascene; and the _Grumachama_, whence a liquor, as good as that from
+cherries, is made: these three last are like laurels, and as beautiful
+as they are useful. I took my young friends to see the powder-mills,
+which are not now at work, being under repair; but they learned the
+manner of making powder, from the first weighing of the ingredients to
+the filling cartridges: and then we had our table spread in a pleasant
+part of the garden, under the shade of a jumbu tree, and made the head
+gardener, a very ingenious Dutchman, partake of our luncheon; which
+being over, he showed us the cinnamon they have barked here, and the
+other specimens of spice: the cloves are very fine, and the cinnamon
+might be so; but the wood they have barked is generally too old, and
+they have not yet the method of stripping the twigs: this I endeavoured
+to explain, as I had seen it practised in Ceylon. The camphor tree grows
+very well here, but I do not know if the gum has ever been collected.
+The two boys were highly delighted with their jaunt, and I not less so.
+Poor things! they are entering on a hard service; and God knows whether
+the two cousins da Costa may not hereafter look back to this day passed
+with a stranger, as a bright "spot of azure in a stormy sky."
+
+_Sept. 13th_.--I rode again to the botanic gardens with Mr. Hoste and
+Mr. Hately. Our chief object this time was the powder-mills. After
+walking round the garden, we proceeded along the valley of the mills;
+and so beautiful and sequestered a place, in the bosom of the mountains,
+was surely never before chosen as a manufactory for so destructive an
+article: I suppose the great command of water for the machinery is the
+chief inducement to fix it here. The powder is mixed by pounding, the
+mortars being of rosewood, and the pestles of the same shod with copper;
+yet the mortar-hoops are iron, which seems to me to be a strange
+oversight. I do not understand these things, however; but the machinery
+interested me: it is extremely simple, and the timber used in the
+construction very beautiful. The principal mill blew up a few months
+since, and is now under repair; so that we had an opportunity of seeing
+the watercourses, dams, wheels, &c., which we could not otherwise have
+enjoyed. We could not learn the relative strength of the powder. I have
+heard, however, that it is good. What I have seen is about as fine in
+grain as what we call priming powder in the navy. While we were walking
+about we were invited into several houses, by the overseers and other
+persons employed in the works, and pressed to eat and drink with great
+hospitality. The greatest liberality to strangers, indeed, exists in all
+public establishments here. For instance, at the botanic garden there is
+a constant nursery of the rare and the useful plants, which are given
+away, on application, to strangers and natives alike; so that not only
+the gardens of Brazil are stocked with the rarer productions of the
+East, but they are carried to different countries in Europe, prepared by
+this cooler climate for their farther transplantation.
+
+_14th_.--I observed on the beach to-day a line of red sandy-looking
+matter, extending all along the shore, and tinging the sea for several
+feet from the edge. At night this red edge became luminous; and I now
+recollect when on the passage to India in 1809, that on observing a
+peculiar luminous appearance of the sea, we took up a bucket of water,
+and on examining it next morning, we observed a similar red grainy
+substance floating in it. It is the first time I have seen it here, and
+I cannot find that any body has paid any attention to it. Perhaps it is
+not worth noticing; but I am so much alone, that I have grown more and
+more alive to all the appearances of inanimate nature. Besides, I must
+make much of the country, as in a few days I have to take up my abode in
+one of the narrow close streets of Rio; and this not from choice. It is
+the custom here, and a very natural and pleasant one it is, for every
+family that can, to live in the country all the summer: so that the
+houses of every kind, in the country, are in great request. The term for
+which that I live in was hired is expired, and I am therefore obliged to
+leave it. My going to town, perhaps, might be avoided, but there are
+some things I shall probably learn more perfectly by living there; and,
+besides, does not Lord Bacon advise that in order to profit much from
+travel, one should not only move from city to city, "but change his
+lodgings from one end and part of the city to another?"
+
+The last fortnight has been extremely foggy, and rather cold; and we
+have had some fierce thunder-storms, that seem almost to rock the
+mountains, and threaten to bring them down upon us.
+
+_16th_.--At length I am fixed in No. 79., Rua dos Pescadores, in the
+first floor of an excellent house, belonging to my kind friend Dr.
+Dickson, who himself inhabits a villa out of town; where he has a farm,
+a garden, a collection of minerals and insects, and all sorts of
+agreeable and profitable things, which he dispenses to others with the
+greatest good-nature. I am obliged to Sir Thomas Hardy for a pleasant
+passage to town from Botafogo, his carriage conveying me, and his boats
+my goods: so in a few hours I have changed my home, and have probably
+taken my leave of all English society, every body has such a dread of
+the heat of the town. However, as I look forward to going to England in
+a few months, perhaps in a few weeks, the more time I have for Brazil
+the better. My private affairs have so occupied me that I have scarcely
+had time to think of the public. Yet in the course of the last week the
+project of the constitution for Brazil, framed by the committee
+appointed, was sent from the Assembly to the Emperor; and yesterday the
+discussion of it, article by article, began in the full assembly.
+
+_17th_.--One advantage has already arisen from my removal into town. I
+have received the very first news of the arrival of a ship from Lisbon
+with commissioners on the part of the King to the Emperor. I find, too,
+that at Lisbon they can publish false news, as well as in some other
+countries in Europe. That city had illuminated in consequence of news
+that Lord Cochrane had been beaten, and the Imperial navy destroyed by
+the Bahia squadron; and this illumination must have taken place just
+about the time that Madeira was evacuating the city, and flying before
+the Imperial Admiral's flag. As to the reception the commissioners are
+to meet with, it is doubtful. Some days since the brig 3 deg. de Maio
+arrived here, having on board Luiz Paolino as successor to Madeira; who,
+finding he could not get into Bahia, came hither, to present, it is
+said, his commission as governor of Bahia to His Imperial Majesty as
+Prince Regent; and it is also said that he was the bearer of some
+letters. But as none of these acknowledged the title, or independence of
+the empire of Brazil, they were not received; and the vessel has
+already sailed on her return to Lisbon. It is believed that the same
+fate will attend the present commissioners, Vieira and his colleague, if
+indeed the ship should not be condemned as a prize. But hitherto of
+course nothing is known.
+
+Another vessel also arrived with intelligence of some moment from Buenos
+Ayres. It appears that the captain of His Majesty's ship Brazen has been
+at variance with the authorities there concerning the old subject of the
+right of boarding vessels, the priority of which the Buenos Ayrians
+claim for their own health-boat. The Commodore means to go thither
+himself on the business, and I have no doubt all will be well and
+reasonably settled.
+
+_18th_.--I went to-day to the public library to ask about some books,
+and am invited to go and use what I like there: the librarians are all
+extremely polite, and the library is open to all persons for six hours
+daily.
+
+I have also walked a great deal about the town, and have again visited
+the arsenals; in which very great improvements have been made and are
+making, particularly building sheds for the workmen. After an English
+arsenal, to be sure, the want of machinery and all the luxuries of
+labour is conspicuous; but the work is well done, and reminds me of that
+I used to see under the old Parsee builder in Bombay. They are laying
+down new ships and repairing old ones. I only wish they could form a
+nursery for seamen, because Brazil must have ships to guard her coasts.
+Fisheries off the Abrolhos, and from St. Catherine's, might perhaps do
+something towards it. From the arsenal I climbed the hill immediately
+overlooking it, where there is the convent of San Bento; where, it is
+said, there is a good library, but it is not accessible to women. The
+situation of the convent is delightful, overlooking both divisions of
+the harbour and the whole town, and the hills many a mile beyond. I am
+not sure whether a cloister or a prison, commanding a fine view, be
+preferable to one without. Whether the gazing on a beautiful scene be in
+itself a pleasure great enough to alleviate confinement; or whether it
+does not increase the longing for liberty in a way analogous to that in
+which a well-remembered air creates a longing, even to death, for the
+home where that air was first heard;--it seems to me as if, once
+imprisoned, I would break every association with liberty, and keep my
+eyes from wandering where my limbs must no longer bear me. However, I do
+suppose some may be, and some have been, happy in a cloister. I cannot
+envy them; I would fain not despise them.
+
+_September 19th_.--Our little English world at Rio is grieving in one
+common mourning for the death of one of the youngest, and certainly the
+loveliest, of our countrywomen here. Beautiful and gay, and the lately
+married and cherished wife of a most worthy man, Mrs. N. died a short
+time after the birth of her first child. She had appeared to be
+recovering well; she relapsed and died. It is one of those events that
+excites sympathy in the hardest, and commiseration in the coldest.
+
+_23d_.--I have been unwell again--but I find that staying at home does
+not cure me; so I went both yesterday and to-day to the library, where a
+pleasant, cool, little cabinet has been assigned to me, where whatever
+book I ask for is brought to me, and where I have pen, ink, and paper
+always placed to make notes. This is a kindness and attention to a woman
+and a stranger that I was hardly prepared for. The library was brought
+hither from Lisbon in 1810, and placed in its present situation, which
+was once the hospital belonging to the Carmelites. That hospital was
+removed to a healthier and more commodious situation, and the rooms,
+admirably adapted to the purpose, received the books, of which there are
+between sixty and seventy thousand volumes. The greater number are books
+of theology and law. There is a great deal of ecclesiastical history,
+and particularly all the Jesuits' accounts of South America. General and
+civil history are not wanting; and there are good editions of the
+classics. There are some fine works on natural history; but, excepting
+these, nothing modern; scarcely a book having been bought for sixty
+years. But a noble addition was made to the establishment by the
+purchase of the Conde de Barca's library; in which there are some
+valuable modern works, and a very fine collection of topographical
+prints of all parts of the world.
+
+I have begun to read diligently every scrap of Brazilian history I can
+find; and I have commenced by a collection of pamphlets, newspapers,
+some MS. letters and proclamations, from the year 1576 to 1757, bound up
+together[124]; some of these tracts Mr. Southey mentions, others he
+probably had not seen, but they contain nothing very material that he
+has not in his history. This morning's study of Brazilian history in the
+original language is one great advantage I derive from my removal into
+town. Besides which, I speak now less English than Portuguese.
+
+[Note 124: To this collection is a printed and engraved title-page,
+as follows: "Noticias Historicas e Militares da America Collegidas por
+Diogo Barboso Machado Abbade da Igreja de Santo Adriano de Sever, e
+Academico da Academia Real. Comprehende do Anno de 1579 ate 1757." It
+contains twenty-four pamphlets, &c. The Abbade Machado's name is in
+almost all the historical books I have yet seen in the library. I know
+not how the collection of the author of the Bibliotheca Lusitania became
+part of the royal library.]
+
+_24th_.--Having now received the portrait which Mr. Erle, an ingenious
+young English artist, has been painting of the Senhora Alerez Dona Maria
+de Jesus, I took it to show it to her friend and patron, Jose Bonifacio
+de Andrada e Silva.
+
+I never spend half an hour any where with more pleasure and profit than
+with the ex-minister's family. His lady is of Irish parentage, an
+O'Leary, a most amiable and kind woman, and truly appreciating the worth
+and talent of her husband; and all the nephews and other relations I
+meet there appear superior in education and understanding to the
+generality of persons I see. But it is Jose Bonifacio himself who
+attracts and interests me most. He is a small man, with a thin lively
+countenance; and his manner and conversation at once impress the
+beholder with the idea of that restless activity of mind which
+
+    "O'er-informs its tenement of clay,"
+
+and is but too likely to wear out the body that contains it. The first
+time I saw him in private was after he ceased to be minister, his
+occupations before that time leaving him little leisure for private
+society. I was curious to see the retreat of a public man. I found him
+surrounded by young people and children, some of whom he took on his
+knee and caressed; and I could easily see that he was very popular among
+the small people. To me, as a stranger, he was most ceremoniously yet
+kindly polite, and conversed on all subjects and of all countries. He
+has visited most of those of Europe.
+
+His library is well stored with books in all languages. The collection
+on chemistry and on mining is particularly extensive, and rich in
+Swedish and German authors. These, indeed, are subjects peculiarly
+interesting to Brazil, and have naturally been of first-rate interest to
+him. But his delight is classical literature; and he is himself a poet
+of no mean order. Perhaps my knowledge of Portuguese does not entitle me
+to judge particularly on the vehicle or language of his poetry; but if
+lofty thoughts, new and beautiful combinations, keen sensibility, and a
+love of beauty and of nature, be essential to poetry, the poems he read
+to me to-day have them all. There is one in particular, on the Creation
+of Woman, glowing as the sun under which it was written, and as pure as
+his light. Perhaps it derived some of its merit from his manner of
+reading it, which, though not what is called fine reading, is full of
+character and intelligence.
+
+To-day, Jose Bonifacio gave me a translation from Meleager, which seems
+to me very beautiful. It was written at Lisbon in 1816, and two or three
+copies printed by one of his friends, and the last of these is now
+mine.[125]
+
+[Note 125:
+
+         _Traducc[)a]o_.
+
+    Ja do ether fugio ventosa inverno,
+    E da florida primavera a hora
+    Purpurea rio: de verde herva mimosa
+    A Terra denegrida se coroa,
+    Behem os prados ja liquido orvalho,
+    Com que medra[)o] as plantas, e festeja[)o]
+    Os abertos bot[)o]es das novas rosas.
+    Com as asperos sons da frauta rude
+    Folga o Serrano, o Pegureiro folga
+    Com as alvos recentes cabritinhos.
+    Ju sulca[)o] Nantas estendidas ondas;
+    E Favonio innocente as velas boja.
+    As Menades, cubertas as cabecas
+    Da flor d'hera, tres vezes enrolada,
+    Do uvifero Baccho orgias celebra[)o]:
+    A Geraca[)o] bovina das abelhas
+    Seus trabalhos completa; j'a produzem
+    Formoso mel; nos favos repousados
+    Candida cera multiplica[)o]. Canta[)o]
+    Por toda a parte as sonorosas aves:
+    Nas ondas o Aleya[)o], em torna aos tectos
+    Canta a Andorinha; canta o branco Cysne
+    Na ribanceira, e o Rouxinol no bosque.
+    Se pois as plantas ledas reverdecem;
+    Florece a Terra; o Guardador a frauta
+    Tange, e folga co'as macans folhudas;
+    Se aves gorgeia[)o]; se as abelhas cria[)o];
+    Navega[)o] Nautas; Baccho guia as choros:
+    Porque na[)u] cantara tambem o Vate
+    A risonha, a formosa Primavera?
+
+]
+
+Let no one say, 'that he is too miserable for any comfort to reach him.
+I am alone, and a widow, and in a foreign land; my health weak, my
+nerves irritable, and having neither wealth nor rank; forced to receive
+obligations painful and discordant with my former habits and prejudices,
+and often meeting with impertinence from those who take advantage of my
+solitary situation: but I am nevertheless sure that I have more
+_half-hours_, I dare not say _hours_, of true enjoyment, and fewer days
+of real misery, than half of those whom the world accounts happy. And I
+thank God, who gave me the temper to feel grief exquisitely, that he at
+the same time gave me an equal capacity for joy. And it is a joy to find
+minds that can understand and communicate with our own; to meet
+occasionally with persons of similar habits of thinking, and who, when
+the business of life rests a while, seek recreation in the same
+pursuits. This delight I do oftener enjoy than I could have hoped, so
+far from cultivated Europe. One or two of my friends are, indeed, like
+costly jewels, not to be worn every day; but there are several of
+sterling metal that even here disarm the ills of this "working-day
+world" of half their sting.
+
+_Sept. 26th, 1823_.--A marriage in high life engages many of the talkers
+of Rio. A fidalgo, an officer distinguished under Beresford, Don
+Francisco----, whose other name I have forgotten, is fortunate enough to
+have obtained one of the loveliest grand-daughters of the Baroness de
+Campos, _Maria de Loreto_; whose extraordinary likeness to our own
+Princess Charlotte of Wales is such, that I am sure no English person
+can have seen her without being struck with it. Here, no unmarried women
+are allowed to be present at a marriage; but the ceremony is performed
+in the presence of the nearest relations, being married, on both sides.
+The mother of the bride sends notice to court, if she be of rank to do
+so, afterwards to other ladies, according to their degree, of the
+marriage of her daughter. The bride then goes to court; after which the
+ladies visit her, and proceed to congratulate the other members of the
+family. It is said this match is one in which the lawful lord of such
+things, i.e. Master Cupid, has had more to do than he is usually allowed
+to have in Brazil, even since it was independent; and truly a handsomer
+couple will not often be seen. I am glad of it. Surely free choice on
+such an important subject is as much to be desired as on any other. On
+this occasion,
+
+    "The god of love, who stood to spy them,
+    The god of love, who must be nigh them,
+    Pleased and tickled at the sight,
+    Sneezed aloud; and at his right
+    The little loves that waited by,
+    Bow'd and bless'd the augury;"
+
+as my favourite Cowley says; and I hope we shall have more such free
+matches in our free Brazil, where, hitherto, the course of true love is
+apt not to run smooth, that is, if my informants on the subject are in
+the right. Seriously, perhaps there has not hitherto been refinement
+enough for the delicate metaphysical love of Europe; which, because it
+is more rational, more noble, than all others, is less easily turned
+aside into other channels. Grandison or Clarissa could not have been
+written here; but I think ere long we may look for the polish and
+prudent morals of Belinda.
+
+_Sept. 29th_.--I went to the orphan asylum, which is also the foundling
+hospital. The orphan boys are apprenticed at a proper age. The girls
+have a portion of 200 milrees; which, though little, assists in their
+establishment, and is often eked out from other funds. The house is
+exceedingly clean, and so are the beds for the foundling children, only
+three of whom are now in-door nurslings, the rest being placed out in
+the country. Till lately they have died in a proportion frightful
+compared with their numbers.[126] Within little more than nine years,
+10,000 children have been received: these were placed out at nurse, and
+many were never accounted for. Not perhaps that they all died, because
+the temptation of retaining a mulatto child as a slave, would most
+likely secure care of its life; but the white ones had not even this
+chance of safety. Besides, the wages paid for the nursing of each was
+formerly so little, that the poor creatures who received them could
+hardly have afforded them the means of subsistence. A partial amendment
+has taken place, and still greater improvements are about to be made.
+There is a great want of medical treatment. Many of the foundlings are
+placed in the wheel[127], full of disease, fever, or more often a
+dreadful species of itch called sarna, and which is often fatal to them.
+Nay, dead children are also brought, that they may be decently interred.
+
+[Note 126: See the Emperor's speech on the 3d May.]
+
+[Note 127: A wheel or revolving box, like that at a convent, into
+which the infants are put.]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+From the asylum, I crossed the street to the great hospital of the
+Misericordia. It is a fine building, and has plenty of room; but it is
+not in so good a state as might be wished: there are usually four
+hundred patients, and the number of deaths very great; but I could not
+learn the exact proportion. The medical department is in great want of
+reform. The insane ward interested me most of all: it is on the ground
+floor, very cold and damp; and most of those placed in it die speedily
+of consumptive complaints. I found here a contradiction to the vulgar
+opinion, that hydrophobia is not known in Brazil. A poor negro had been
+bitten by a mad dog a month ago; he did not seem very ill till yesterday
+morning, when he was sent here. He was at the grate of his cell as we
+passed him, in a deplorable state: knowing the gentleman who was with
+me, he had hoped he would release him from confinement; this of course
+could not be: he expired a few hours after we saw him. The burial-ground
+of the Misericordia is so much too small as to be exceedingly
+disgusting, and, I should imagine, unwholesome for the neighbourhood. I
+had long wished to do what I have done to-day. I think the more persons
+that show an interest in such establishments the better: it fixes
+attention upon them; and that of itself must do good. Yet my courage had
+hitherto failed, and I owe the excursion of this morning to accident
+rather than design.
+
+I rode this evening to the protestant burial-ground, at the Praya de
+Gamboa. I think it one of the loveliest spots I ever beheld, commanding
+beautiful views every way. It slopes gradually towards the road along
+the shore: at the highest point there is a pretty building, consisting
+of three chambers; one serves as a place of meeting or waiting for the
+clergyman occasionally; one as a repository for the mournful furniture
+of the grave; and the largest, which is between the other two, is
+generally occupied by the body of the dead for the few hours, it may be
+a day and a night, which can in this climate elapse between death and
+burial: in front of this are the various stones, and urns, and vain
+memorials we raise to relieve our own sorrow; and between these and the
+road, some magnificent trees. Three sides of this field are fenced by
+rock or wood. Even Crabbe's fanciful and delicate Jane might have
+thought without pain of sleeping here.[128] In my illness I had often
+felt sorry that I had not seen this ground. I am satisfied now; and if
+my still lingering weakness should lay me here, the very, very few who
+may come to see where their friend lies will feel no disgust at the
+prison-house.
+
+[Note 128: See Tales of the Hall.--The Sisters.]
+
+_30th_.--I called at a very agreeable Brazilian lady's house to-day; and
+saw, for the first time in my life, a regular Brazilian _bas-blue_ in
+the person of Dona Maria Clara: she reads a good deal, especially
+philosophy and politics; she is a tolerable botanist, and draws flowers
+exceedingly well; besides, she is what I think it is Miss Edgeworth
+calls "a fetcher and carrier of bays,"--a useful member of society, who,
+without harming herself or others, circulates the necessary literary
+news, and would be invaluable where new authors want puffing, and new
+poems should have the pretty passages pointed out for the advantage of
+literary misses. Here, alas! such kindly offices are confined to
+comparing the rival passages in the Correiro and the Sentinella, or
+advocating the cause of the editor of the Sylpho or the Tamoyo. But, in
+sober earnest, I was delighted to find such a lady. Without arrogating
+much more than is due to the sex, it may claim some small influence over
+the occupations and amusements of home; and the woman who brings books
+instead of cards or private scandal into the domestic circle, is likely
+to promote a more general cultivation, and a more refined taste, in the
+society to which she belongs.
+
+_October 1st, 1823_.--The court and city are in a state of rejoicing.
+Lord Cochrane has secured Maranham for the Emperor. Once more I break in
+on my own rule, and copy part of his letter to me:--
+
+"Maranham, August 12th, 1823.
+
+"My dear Madam,
+
+"You would receive a few lines from me, dated from off Bahia, and also
+from the latitude of Pernambuco, saying briefly what we were about then.
+And now I have to add, that we followed the Portuguese squadron to the
+fifth degree of north latitude, and until only thirteen sail remained
+together out of seventy of their convoy; and then, judging it better for
+the interests of His Imperial Majesty, I hauled the wind for Maranham;
+and I have the pleasure to tell you, that my plan of adding it to the
+empire has had complete success. I ran in with this ship abreast of
+their forts; and having sent a notice of blockade, and intimated that
+the squadron of Bahia and Imperial forces were off the bar, the
+Portuguese flag was hauled down, and every thing went on without
+bloodshed, just as you could wish. We have found here a Portuguese brig
+of war, a schooner, and eight gun-boats; also sixteen merchant vessels,
+and a good deal of property belonging to Portuguese resident in Lisbon,
+deposited in the custom-house. The brig of war late the Infante Don
+Miguel, now the Maranham, is gone down with Grenfell to summon Para,
+where there is a beautiful newly-launched fifty-gun frigate, which I
+have no doubt but he has got before now. Thus, my dear Madam, on my
+return I shall have the pleasure to acquaint His Imperial Majesty, that
+between the extremities of his empire there exists no enemy either on
+shore or afloat. This will probably be within the sixth month from our
+sailing from Rio, and at this moment is actually the case."
+
+Together with this letter, His Lordship has sent me the public papers
+concerning the taking possession of the place for the Emperor, and the
+officer who brought the despatches has obligingly favoured me with
+farther particulars; so that I believe the following to be a correct
+account, as far as it goes, of the whole.
+
+As soon as it was perceived on board the Pedro Primeiro, by the orders
+given by Lord Cochrane for the course of the ship, that he had resolved
+on going to Maranham, the pilots became uneasy on account of the
+dangerous navigation of the coast, and, as they said, the impossibility
+of entering the harbour in so large a ship. I have often felt that there
+was something very captivating in the word _impossible_. The Admiral,
+however, had better motives, and had skill and knowledge to support his
+perseverance; and so on the 26th of July, he entered the bay of San Luis
+de Maranham, under English colours. Seeing a vessel of war off the
+place, he sent a boat on board; and though some of the sailors
+recognised two of the boat's crew, the officer, Mr. Shepherd, performed
+his part so well, that he obtained all the necessary information; and
+the Admiral then went in with his ship, and anchored under fort San
+Francisco. Thence he sent in the following papers to the city.
+
+     "_Address to the Authorities_.
+
+     "The forces of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, having
+     delivered the city and province of Bahia from the enemies of their
+     independence, I, in conformity to the wishes of His Imperial
+     Majesty, am desirous that the fruitful province of Maranham should
+     enjoy a like freedom. I am now come to offer to the unfortunate
+     inhabitants the protection and assistance necessary against the
+     oppression of foreigners, wishing to accomplish their freedom, and
+     to salute them as brethren and as friends. But should there be any
+     who, from vexatious motives, oppose the liberation of this country,
+     such persons may be assured that the naval and military forces
+     which expelled the Portuguese from the South, are ready to draw the
+     sword in the same just cause: and that sword once drawn, the
+     consequences cannot be doubtful. I beg the principal authorities to
+     make known to me their decisions, in order that, in case of
+     opposition, the consequences may not be imputed to the hasty manner
+     in which I set about the work which I must achieve. God keep Your
+     Excellencies many years!--_On board the Pedro Primeiro, 26th July,
+     1823_.
+
+     "_Proclamation_
+
+     "By His Excellency Lord Cochrane, Admiral and Commander-in-Chief of
+     the naval forces of His Imperial Majesty.
+
+     "The port, river, and island of Maranham, the bay of San Jose, and
+     roads adjacent, are declared to be in a state of blockade, as long
+     as the Portuguese shall exercise the supreme authority there; and
+     all entrance or departure is strictly prohibited, under those pains
+     and penalties authorised by the law of nations against those who
+     violate the rights of belligerents.--_On board the Pedro Primeiro,
+     26th July, 1823_."
+
+These papers were received by the junta of Provisional Government, at
+whose head was the Bishop. There had previously been some movements in
+favour of independence, but they had been over-ruled by the Portuguese
+troops, of whom there were about 300 in the town. The junta of course
+accepted all Lord Cochrane's proposals; the 1st of August was appointed
+as the day for electing a new government under the empire, and the
+intermediate days for taking the oaths to the Emperor, and for embarking
+the Portuguese troops; a step the more necessary, as they had shown a
+disposition to oppose the Brazilians, and had even insulted Captain
+Crosbie and others as they were landing to settle affairs with the
+government. Besides, they were hourly in expectation of a reinforcement
+of 500 men from Lisbon. Meantime the anchorage under Fort Francisco was
+found inconvenient for so large a ship as the Pedro Primeiro, and the
+Admiral took her round the great shoal which forms the other side of the
+harbour, and anchored her between the Ilha do Medo and the main in
+fifteen fathoms water; where he left her, and returned to the town in
+the sloop of war Pambinha, in which vessel he could lie close to the
+city itself. One of his first steps was to substitute Brazilian for
+Portuguese troops, in all situations where soldiers were absolutely
+necessary to keep order; but he did not admit more than a very limited
+number within the walls. He caused all who had been imprisoned on
+account of their political opinions to be liberated; and he sent notices
+to the independent military commanders of Ceara and Piauhy to desist
+from hostilities against Maranham.
+
+On the 27th, Lord Cochrane published the following proclamation:--
+
+"_The High Admiral of Brazil to the Inhabitants of Maranham_.
+
+"The auspicious day is arrived on which the worthy inhabitants of
+Maranham have it in their power to declare at once the independence of
+their country, and their adhesion to, and satisfaction with, their
+patriot monarch, the Emperor Peter I. (son of the august Sovereign Don
+John VI.); under whose protection they enjoy the glorious privileges of
+being free men, of choosing their own constitution, and of making their
+own laws by their representatives assembled to consult on their own
+interests, and in their own country.
+
+"That the glory of such a day should not be darkened by any excess, even
+though proceeding from enthusiasm in the cause we have embraced, must be
+the desire of every honest and thinking citizen. It is not necessary to
+advise such as to their conduct: but, should there be any individuals
+capable of interrupting the public tranquillity on any pretext, let them
+beware! The strictest orders are given for the chastisement of whoever
+shall cause any kind of disorder, according to the degree of the crime.
+To take the necessary oaths, to choose the members of the civil
+government, are acts that should be performed with deliberation: for
+which reason, the first of August is the earliest day which the
+preparation for such solemn ceremonies demands, will permit.--Citizens!
+let us go forward seriously and methodically, without tumult, hurry, or
+confusion; and accomplish the work we have in hand in such a manner as
+shall merit the approbation of His Imperial Majesty, and shall give us
+neither cause for repentance, nor room for amendment. Viva, our Emperor!
+Viva, the independence and constitution of Brazil!--_On board the Pedro
+Primeiro, 27th July, 1823_.
+
+COCHRANE."
+
+On the 28th, the junta of government, the camara of the town, the
+citizens and soldiers, with Captain Crosbie to represent Lord Cochrane,
+who was not well enough to attend, assembled to proclaim the
+independence of Brazil, and to swear allegiance to the Emperor, Don
+Pedro de Alcantara; after which there was a firing of the troops, and
+discharge of artillery, and ringing of bells, as is usual on such
+occasions. The public act of fealty was drawn up, and signed by as many
+as could conveniently do so, and the Brazilian flag was hoisted, a flag
+of truce having been flying from the arrival of the Pedro till then.
+
+The next day the inhabitants proceeded to the choice of their new
+provisional government of the province, which was installed on the 8th
+of August, as had been appointed. The members are, Miguel Ignacio dos
+Santos Freire e Bruce, _President_; Lourenco de Castro Belford,
+_Secretary_; and Jose Joaquim Vieira Belford.
+
+The first act of the new government was to issue a proclamation to the
+inhabitants of the province of Maranham, congratulating them on being no
+longer a nation of slaves to Portugal, but a free people of the empire
+of Brazil; exhorting them to confidence, fidelity, and tranquillity; and
+concluding with vivas to the Roman Catholic religion; to our
+Constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender Don Pedro I., and his
+dynasty; to the Cortes of Brazil, and the people of Maranham.
+
+The letter of the new government to His Imperial Majesty is dated the
+12th of August, when every thing was finally settled. It begins by
+congratulating him on the happy state of things in general in Brazil. It
+then sets forth the wishes of the people of Maranham to have joined
+their brethren long since, but that these wishes had been thwarted by
+the Lisbon troops.--"But what was our joy and transport when
+unexpectedly we saw the ship Pedro Primeiro summoning our port!!! Oh,
+26th of July, 1823! Thrice happy day! thou wilt be as conspicuous in the
+annals of our province, as the sentiments of gratitude and respect
+inspired by the virtues of the illustrious Admiral sent to our aid by
+the best and most amiable of Monarchs will be deeply engraven on our
+hearts and those of our posterity! Yes, august Sire! the wisdom, the
+prudence, and the gentle manners of Lord Cochrane, have contributed
+still more to the happy issue of our political difficulties, than even
+the fear of his forces, however respectable they might be. To anchor in
+our port; to proclaim independence; to administer the proper oaths of
+obedience to Your Imperial Majesty; to suspend hostilities throughout
+the province; to cause a new government to be elected; to bring the
+troops of the country into the town, and then only in sufficient numbers
+for the public order and tranquillity; to open communication between the
+interior and the capital; to provide it with necessaries; and to restore
+navigation and commerce to their pristine state: all this, SIRE, was the
+work of a few days. Grant, Heaven, that this noble Chief may end the
+glorious career of his political and military labours with the like
+felicity and success; and that Your Imperial Majesty being so well
+served, nothing more may be necessary to immortalise that admirable
+commander, not only in the annals of Brazil, but in those of the whole
+world!"
+
+And this, I think, is all of importance that I have learned with regard
+to the capture of Maranham to-day. It is true, the brig Maria,
+despatched by His Lordship on the 12th of August, only arrived to-day;
+so that much may be behind.
+
+_2d October_.--A friend who was present at the Assembly to-day gives me
+the following account of the debate.--In the first place, the Emperor
+sent notice of Lord Cochrane's success at Maranham; and Martim Francisco
+Ribiero de Andrada rose and proposed a vote of thanks to His Lordship.
+The deputy Montezuma (of Bahia) opposed this, on the ground that he was
+the servant of the executive government, and the government ought to
+thank him. He felt as grateful to Lord Cochrane as any member of the
+Assembly could do, and would do as much to prove his gratitude; but he
+would not vote to thank him there. Dr. Franca (known by the nickname of
+Franzinho) seconded Montezuma, and said it derogated from the dignity of
+the legislative assembly of the vast, and noble, and rich empire of
+Brazil, to vote thanks to any individual. On which Costa Barros, in a
+speech of eloquence and enthusiasm, maintained the propriety of thanking
+Lord Cochrane. That the triumphal road, as in ancient Rome, did not now
+exist; but the triumph might be granted by the voice of the national
+representatives. The gentleman who thought no thanks should be voted
+was a member for Bahia, and talked of his gratitude. He could tell him,
+that grateful as he (Costa Barros) now felt, were he, like that
+gentleman, a member for Bahia, his gratitude, and his eagerness to
+express it, would be tenfold. Who but Lord Cochrane had delivered Bahia
+from the Portuguese, that swarm of drones that threatened to devour the
+land? But he supposed the greatness of Sen. Montezuma's gratitude was
+such, that it smothered the expression. This produced a laugh, and that
+a challenge, and then a cry of "order, order" (_a ordem_).
+
+Sen. Ribiero de Andrada then said, that as to the observation that had
+fallen from Franca, that His Lordship had only done his duty, was no man
+to be thanked for doing an important duty? Besides, though the blockade
+of Bahia was a duty, the reduction of Maranham was something more--it
+was undertaken on his own judgment, and at the risk of consequences to
+himself. Sen. Lisboa observed, that as to its being beneath the dignity
+of the Representative Assembly of Brazil to thank an individual, the
+English Parliament scrupled not to thank its naval and military chiefs;
+and could what it did be beneath the Assembly of Brazil? Would to God
+the Assembly might one day emulate the British Parliament!
+
+After this there was more sparring between Montezuma and Costa Barros:
+the former resuming the subject of the challenge; Barros bowing, and
+assuring him he did not refuse it: on which a member on the same side
+observed sarcastically, only half rising as he spoke, that those who
+meant really to fight would hardly speak it aloud in the _General
+Assembly_. This ended the dispute; and the vote of thanks was carried
+with only the voices of Montezuma and Franca against it; and so passed
+this day's session.
+
+I must say for the people here, that they do seem sensible that in Lord
+Cochrane they have obtained a treasure. * * * * That there are some who
+find fault, and some who envy, is very true. But when was it otherwise?
+Sometimes I cry,
+
+    "O, what a world is this, where what is comely
+    Envenoms him that bears it!"
+
+At others, I take it more easily, and say coolly with the Spaniard,
+
+    "Envy was honour's wife, the wise man said,
+    Ne'er to be parted till the man was dead:"
+
+and neither envy, nor any other injurious feeling, nor all the
+manifestations of them all together, can ever lessen the real merit of
+so great a man.
+
+The acquisition of Maranham is exceedingly important to the empire: it
+is one of the provinces that, from the time of its first settlement, has
+carried on the greatest foreign trade.[129]
+
+[Note 129: See the Appendix.]
+
+_6th_.--We had three days of public rejoicing, on account of the taking
+of Maranham; and on Friday, as I happened to be at the palace to show
+some drawings to the Empress, I perceived that the Emperor's levee was
+unusually crowded. During these few days, though I have been far from
+well, I have improved my acquaintance with my foreign friends; but of
+English I see, and wish to see, very little of any body but Mrs. May.
+
+_9th_.--I resolved to take a holiday: so went to spend it with Mrs. May,
+at the Gloria, only going first for half an hour to the library. That
+library is a great source of comfort to me: I every day find my cabinet
+quiet and cool, and provided with the means of study, and generally
+spend four hours there, reading Portuguese and Brazilian history; for
+which I shall not, probably, have so good an opportunity again.
+
+This day the debate in the Assembly has been most interesting. It is
+some time since, in discussing that part of the proposed constitution,
+which treats of the persons who are to be considered as Brazilians,
+entitled to the protection of the laws of the empire, and amenable to
+those laws, the 8th paragraph of the 5th article was admitted without a
+dissentient voice: it is this--"_All naturalised strangers, whatever be
+their religion_." To-day the 3d paragraph of the 7th article came under
+discussion. This article treats of the individual rights of Brazilians;
+it runs thus--"The constitution guarantees to all Brazilians the
+following individual rights, with the explanations and limitations
+thereafter expressed:--
+
+"I. Personal Freedom.
+II. Trial by Jury.
+III. Religious Freedom.
+IV. Professional Freedom.
+V. Inviolability of Property.
+VI. Liberty of the Press."
+
+The 14th article goes on to state, that all Christians may enjoy the
+political rights of the empire: 15th, "Other religions are hardly
+tolerated, and none but Christians shall enjoy political rights;" and
+the 16th declares the Roman Catholic religion to be that of the state,
+and the only one beneficed by the state.
+
+Now this day's discussion was not merely one of form; but it has
+established toleration in all its extent. A man is at liberty to
+exercise his faith as he pleases, and even to change it: should he,
+indeed, have the folly to turn Turk, he must not vote at elections, nor
+be a member of the Assembly, nor enjoy an office in the state, civil or
+military; but he may sit under his vine and his fig-tree, and exercise
+an honest calling. All Christians are eligible to all offices and
+employments; and I only wish older countries would deign to take lessons
+from this new government in its noble liberality. The Diario of the
+Assembly is so far behind with the reports of the sessions, that I have
+not, of course, a correct account of the speeches; but I believe that I
+am not wrong in attributing to the Bishop the most benevolent and
+enlightened views on this momentous subject, together with that laudable
+attachment to the church of his fathers that belongs to good men of
+every creed.
+
+_October 12th_.--This is the Emperor's birth-day, and the first
+anniversary of the coronation. I was curious to see the court of Brazil;
+so I rose early and dressed myself, and went to the royal chapel, where
+the Emperor and Empress, and the Imperial Princess were to be with the
+court before the drawing-room. I accordingly applied to the chaplain
+for a station, who showed me into what is called the _diplomatic_
+tribune, but it is in fact for respectable foreigners: there I met all
+manner of consuls. However, the curiosity which led me to the chapel
+would not allow me to go home when the said consuls did; so I went to
+the drawing-room, which perhaps, after all, I should not have done,
+being quite alone, had not the gracious manner in which their Imperial
+Majesties saluted me, both in the chapel and afterwards in the corridor
+leading to the royal apartments, induced me to proceed. I reached the
+inner room where the ladies were, just as the Emperor had, with a most
+pleasing compliment, announced to Lady Cochrane that she was Marchioness
+of Maranham; for that he had made her husband Marques, and had conferred
+on him the highest degree of the order of the Cruceiro. I am sometimes
+absent; and now, when I ought to have been most attentive, I felt myself
+in the situation Sancho Panca so humorously describes, of sending my
+wits wool-gathering, and coming home shorn myself: for I was so intent
+on the honour conferred on my friend and countryman; so charmed, that
+for once his services had been appreciated,--that when I found the
+Emperor in the middle of the room, and that his hand was extended
+towards me, and that all others had paid their compliments and passed to
+their places, I forgot I had my glove on, took his Imperial hand with
+that glove, and I suppose kissed it much in earnest, for I saw some of
+the ladies smile before I remembered any thing about it. Had this
+happened with regard to any other prince, I believe that I should have
+run away; but nobody is more good-natured than Don Pedro: I saw there
+was no harm done; and so determining to be on my guard when the Empress
+came in, and then to take an opportunity of telling her of my fault, I
+stayed quietly, and began talking to two or three young ladies who were
+at court for the first time, and had just received their appointment as
+ladies of honour to the Empress.
+
+Her Majesty, who had retired with the young Princess, now came in, and
+the ladies all paid their compliments while the Emperor was busy in the
+presence-chamber receiving the compliments of the Assembly and other
+public bodies. There was little form and no stiffness. Her Imperial
+Majesty conversed easily with every body, only telling us all to speak
+Portuguese, which of course we did. She talked a good deal to me about
+English authors, and especially of the Scotch novels, and very kindly
+helped me in my Portuguese; which, though I now understand, I have few
+opportunities of speaking to cultivated persons. If I have been pleased
+with her before, I was charmed with her now. When the Emperor had
+received the public bodies, he came and led the Empress into the great
+receiving room, and there, both of them standing on the upper step of
+the throne, they had their hands kissed by naval, military, and civil
+officers, and private men; thousands, I should think, thus passed. It
+was curious, but it pleased me, to see some negro officers take the
+small white hand of the Empress in their clumsy black hands, and apply
+their pouting African lips to so delicate a skin; but they looked up to
+_Nosso Emperador_, and to her, with a reverence that seemed to me a
+promise of faith _from them_, a bond of kindness _to_ them. The Emperor
+was dressed in a very rich military uniform, the Empress in a white
+dress embroidered with gold, a corresponding cap with feathers tipped
+with green; and her diamonds were superb, her head-tire and ear-rings
+having in them opals such as I suppose the world does not contain, and
+the brilliants surrounding the Emperor's picture, which she wears, the
+largest I have seen.
+
+I should do wrong not to mention the ladies of the court. My partial
+eyes preferred my pretty countrywoman the new Marchioness; but there
+were the sweet young bride Maria de Loreto, and a number of others of
+most engaging appearance; and then there were the jewels of the
+Baronessa de Campos, and those of the Viscondeca do Rio Seco, only
+inferior to those of the Empress: but I cannot enumerate all the riches,
+or beauty; nor would it entertain my English friends, for whom this
+journal is written, if I could.
+
+When their Imperial Majesties came out of the great room, I saw Madame
+do Rio Seco in earnest conversation with them; and soon I saw her and
+Lady Cochrane kissing hands, and found they had both been appointed
+honorary ladies of the Empress; and then the Viscountess told me she had
+been speaking to the Empress about me. This astonished me, for I had no
+thought of engaging in any thing away from England. Six months before,
+indeed, I had said that I was so pleased with the little Princess, that
+I should like to educate her. This, which I thought no more of at the
+time, was, like every thing in this gossiping place, told to Sir T.
+Hardy: he spoke of it to me, and said he had already mentioned it to a
+friend of mine. I said, that if the Emperor and Empress chose, as a warm
+climate agreed with me, I should not dislike it; that it required
+consideration; and that if I could render myself sufficiently agreeable
+to the Empress, I should ask the appointment of governess to the
+Princess; and so matters stood when Sir Thomas Hardy sailed for Buenos
+Ayres. I own that the more I saw of the Imperial family, the more I
+wished to belong to it; but I was frightened at the thoughts of Rio, by
+the impertinent behaviour of some of the English, so that I should
+probably not have proposed the thing myself. It was done, however: the
+Empress told me to apply to the Emperor. I observed he looked tired with
+the levee, and begged to be allowed to write to her another day. She
+said, "Write if you please, but come and see the Emperor at five o'clock
+to-morrow." And so they went out, and I remained marvelling at the
+chance that had brought me into a situation so unlike any thing I had
+ever contemplated; and came home to write a letter to Her Imperial
+Majesty, and to wonder what I should do next.
+
+_Monday, October 13th._--I wrote my letter to the Empress, and was
+punctual to the time for seeing the Emperor. He received me very kindly,
+and sent me to speak to Her Imperial Majesty, who took my letter, and
+promised me an answer in two days, adding the most obliging expressions
+of personal kindness. And this was certainly the first letter I ever
+wrote on the subject; though my English _friends_ tell me that I had a
+memorial in my hand yesterday, and that I went to court only to deliver
+it, for they saw it in my hand. Now I had a white pocket-handkerchief
+and a black fan in my hand, and thought as little of speaking about my
+own affairs to their Imperial Majesties, as of making a voyage to the
+moon. But people will always know each other's affairs best.
+
+_16th._--I have continued going regularly to the library, and have
+become acquainted with the principal librarian, who is also the
+Emperor's confessor. He is a polished and well-informed man. He showed
+me the Conde da Barca's library, which, as I knew before, had been
+purchased at the price of 15,530,900 rees, and added to the public
+collection. To-day, on returning from my study I received a letter from
+the Empress, written in English, full of kind expressions; and in the
+pleasantest manner accepting, in the Emperor's name and her own, my
+services as governess to her daughter; and giving me leave to go to
+England, before I entered on my employment, as the Princess is still so
+young.
+
+I went to San Cristova[)o] to return thanks.
+
+_19th._--I saw the Empress, who is pleased to allow me to sail for
+England in the packet, the day after to-morrow. I confess I am sorry to
+go before Lord Cochrane's return. I had set my heart on seeing my best
+friend in this country, after his exertions and triumph. But I have now
+put my hand to the plough, and I must not turn back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_October 21st._--I embarked on board the packet for England. Mrs. May
+walked to the shore with me. Sir Murray Maxwell lent me his boats to
+bring myself and goods on board. I had previously taken leave of every
+body I knew, English and foreign.
+
+After I embarked, Mr. Anderson brought me the latest newspapers. The
+following are the principal ones published in Rio:--The DIARIO DA
+ASSEMBLEA, which contains nothing but the proceedings of the Assembly;
+it appears as fast as the short-hand writers can publish it. The
+GOVERNMENT GAZETTE, which has all official articles, appointments, naval
+intelligence, and sometimes a few advertisements. The DIARIO DO RIO,
+which has nothing but advertisements, and ship news, and prices current;
+it used to print a meteorological table. The CORREIRO, a democratic
+journal, which the editor wrote from prison, only occasionally for some
+time, but lately it has been a daily paper. The SENTINELA DA LIBERDAD E
+A BEIRA DO MAR DA PRAYA GRANDE is edited by a Genoese, assisted by one
+of the deputies, and is said to be pure _carbonarism_. The SYLPHO, also
+an occasional paper, moderately ministerial, and engaged in a war of
+words with several others. The ATALAIA, an advocate for limited
+monarchy, whose editor is a deputy of considerable reputation, is
+another occasional paper; as is also the TAMOYO, entirely devoted to the
+Andradas: it is, in my opinion, the best-written of all. The SENTINELA
+DA PA[)O]N D'ASUCAR is on the same side; its editor formerly published the
+_Regulador_, but this has ceased to appear since the change of ministry.
+The _Espelho_ was a government paper; but the writer has discontinued
+it, having become a member of the Assembly. The _Malaguetta_ was a paper
+whose first number attracted a great deal of attention; it fell off
+afterwards, and ceased on the declaration of the independence of Brazil.
+It was remarkable for its hostility to the Andradas. Indeed the war of
+words the author waged against the family was so virulent, that they
+were suspected of being the instigators of an attempt to assassinate
+him. This they indignantly denied, and satisfactorily disproved; and the
+man being almost maniacal with passion, accused any and every person of
+consequence in the state, and conceived himself, even wounded as he
+was, not safe. In vain did all persons, even the Emperor himself, visit
+him, to reassure him; his terrors continued, and he withdrew himself the
+moment he was sufficiently recovered from his wounds. He was by birth a
+Portuguese, and his strong passions had probably rendered him an object
+of hatred or jealousy to some inferior person, the consequences of which
+his vanity made him attribute to a higher source.--I believe there are
+some other occasional papers, but I have not seen them.
+
+_Oct. 25th_.--Happily for me there are no passengers in the packet, and
+still more happily, the captain's wife and daughter are on board; so
+that I feel as if lodging in a quiet English family, all is so decent,
+orderly, and, above all, clean. I am under no restraint, but walk, read,
+write, and draw, as if at home: every body, even to the monkey on board,
+looks kindly at me; and I receive all manner of friendly attention
+consistent with perfect liberty.
+
+_Nov. 1st_.--"The longest way about is often the nearest, way home,"
+says the proverb; and, on that principle, ships bound for England from
+Brazil at this time of the year stand far to the eastward. We are still
+in the latitude of Rio de Janeiro, though in long. 29 deg. W., and shall
+probably stand still nearer to the coast of Africa, before we shall be
+able to look to the northward. To-day the thermometer is at 75 deg., the
+temperature of the sea 72 deg..
+
+_9th_.--Lat. 14 deg. 19' S., long. 24 deg. W., thermometer 74 deg., sea 74-1/2 deg..
+
+_17th_.--Lat. 5 deg. N., long. 25 deg. W. For several days the thermometer at
+80 deg.; the temperature of the sea at noon 82 deg.. We spoke the Pambinha, 60
+days from Maranham. She says Lord Cochrane had gone himself to Para,
+whence he meant to proceed directly for Rio; so that he would probably
+be there by this time, as the Pedro Primeiro sails well. I had no
+opportunity of learning more, as the vessel passed hastily.
+
+We have, generally speaking, had hot winds from Africa, and there is a
+sultry feel in the air which the state of the thermometer hardly
+accounts for. I perceive that the sails are all tinged with a reddish
+colour; and wherever a rope has chafed upon them, they appear almost as
+if iron-moulded. This the captain and officers attribute to the wind
+from Africa. They were certainly perfectly white long after we left Rio;
+they have not been either furled or unbent. What may be the nature of
+the dust or sand that thus on the wings of the wind crosses so many
+miles of ocean, and stains the canvass? Can it be this minute dust
+affecting the lungs which makes us breathe as if in the sultry hours
+preceding a thunder-storm?
+
+_Dec. 3d_.--We came in sight of St. Mary's, the eastern island of the
+Azores. I much wished to have touched at some of these isles; but this
+is not a good season for doing so, and the winds we have had have been
+unfavourable for the purpose. This afternoon, though near enough to have
+seen at least the face of the land, the weather was thick and rainy, so
+that we saw nothing.
+
+_18th_.--After passing the Azores, a long succession of gales from the
+north-east kept us off the land. These were succeeded by three fine
+days; and the sea, which had been heavy, became smooth. Early the day
+before yesterday, however, it began to blow very hard from the
+northwest; and yesterday morning it changed to a gale from the south and
+south-west, and we lay-to under storm stay-sails, in a tremendous sea.
+About one o'clock the captain called to me, and desired me to come on
+deck and see what could not last ten minutes, and I might never see
+again. I ran up, as did Mrs. and Miss K----. A sudden shift of wind had
+taken place: we saw it before it came up, driving the sea along
+furiously before it; and the meeting of the two winds broke the sea as
+high as any ship's mast-head in a long line, like the breakers on a reef
+of rocks. It was the most beautiful yet fearful sight I ever beheld; and
+the sea was surging over our little vessel so as to threaten to fill
+her: but the hatches were battoned down; we were lying-to on a right
+tack, and a hawser had been passed round the bits in order to sustain
+the foremast, in case we lost our bowsprit, as we expected to do every
+instant. But in twenty minutes the gale moderated, and we bore up for
+Falmouth, which we reached this morning, having passed the cabin deck
+of a ship that doubtless had foundered in the storm of yesterday.--Once
+more I am in England; and, to use the words of a venerable though
+apocryphal writer, "Here will I make an end. And if I have done well,
+and as is fitting the story, it is that which I desired; but if
+slenderly and meanly, it is that which I could attain unto."[130]
+
+M.G.
+
+[Note 130: 2 Maccabees, chap. XV. ver. 37, 38.]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+It will appear from the following TABLES of the Imports and Exports of
+the Province of Maranham, from 1812 to 1821, of how much importance the
+acquisition of that Province is to the Empire of Brazil. Some other
+Tables are added, which may serve to give a clearer idea of the state of
+the country. The amount of the duties on the importation of Slaves, paid
+by Maranham to the treasury at Rio de Janeiro during those ten years,
+was 30,239 milrees.
+
+Nothing is wanting to the prosperity of that fine Province but a steady
+government, and a regular administration of justice. Without these two
+things, it will be in vain to expect either prosperity or tranquillity.
+The people are multiplying too fast to be managed by the former clumsy
+administration; and their intercourse with the rest of the world has
+taught them to wish for something better.
+
+Although there are veins of metal in Maranham, they have never been
+worked; but some saltpetre-works have been established there. There are
+mineral and medicinal waters in some districts; but I believe they have
+not been analyzed: in short, little attention has hitherto been paid to
+any thing but the woods, and the growth of coffee, cotton, and sugar; in
+all of which Maranham is abundantly rich.
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM, FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.
+(Continued below)
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+COUNTRIES WHENCE IMPORTED.|    1812      |    1813      |    1814      |    1815      |    1816      |
+--------------------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|--------------|
+                          |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |
+Brazil                    |  244,506,690 |  284,211,812 |  416,508,747 |  284,418,270 |  271,326,160 |
+Portuguese ports in Africa|  146,817,000 |  181,610,811 |  221,219,843 |  371,238,250 |  408,590,000 |
+Lisbon                    |  167,431,350 |  256,407,277 |  417,018,290 |  458,595,340 |  752,051,810 |
+Oporte                    |   69,103,210 |   74,842,710 |   70,429,900 |   98,399,750 |  173,794,080 |
+England                   |  581,682,700 |  654,891,057 |  696,425,620 |  465,997,240 |  550,217,190 |
+Gibraltar                 |   13,848,800 | ------------ |    3,246,400 | ------------ | -----------  |
+United States             |   49,729,600 | ------------ | ------------ |   12,250,600 |   32,906,840 |
+Western Isles             | ------------ |    2,964,400 | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+France                    | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |   60,662,700 |   55,459,000 |
+Holland                   | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+Spain                     | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ |
+Annual amount             |1,273,119,340 |1,454,927,667 |1,824,848,800 |1,751,563,150 |2,244,245,080 |
+Silk Goods Portuguese     |    8,694,300 |    9,836,200 |    8,880,920 |   11,622,780 |   22,217,900 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    6,601,600 |    6,447,500 |   15,647,400 |   22,720,600 |   18,863,200 |
+Linen Goods Portuguese    |   26,832,100 |   22,170,300 |   19,476,800 |   29,872,200 |   50,266,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |   69,031,100 |  125,357,220 |  172,292,860 |   74,989,100 |  162,170,280 |
+Cotton Goods Portuguese   |    3,085,640 |   10,375,730 |   10,859,000 |   21,273,380 |   54,732,250 |
+  Do.  foreign            |  349,295,440 |  324,792,020 |  316,213,050 |  377,886,820 |  444,593,640 |
+Woolen Cloths Portuguese  | ------------ | ------------ |      198,720 |      272,000 |      774,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |   33,487,300 |   39,377,950 |   43,725,900 |   17,259,300 |   50,546,900 |
+Fine Hats Portuguese      |          946 |        2,292 |        4,400 |        3,402 |        5,419 |
+  Do.  foreign            |        4,228 |        5,140 |        8,795 |        3,193 |        7,422 |
+Coarse Hats Portuguese    |       11,689 |        9,623 |        6,225 |        9,424 |       16,380 |
+  Do.  foreign            |        3,774 |        2,735 |        4,976 |       17,836 |       14,555 |
+Clothes and Shoes         |              |              |              |              |              |
+Portuguese                |    2,465,600 |    1,817,600 |    3,054,600 |    3,346,880 |    2,389,100 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    1,232,000 |      500,000 |    2,200,000 |    1,729,200 |    1,080,800 |
+Movables Portuguese       |    4,494,600 |    3,360,000 |    8,700,000 |   10,600,000 |   18,600,000 |
+  Do.  foreign            |    1,244,700 |    2,734,000 |    1,120,000 |    1,400,000 |    5,000,000 |
+Portuguese brandy Pipes   |           45 |           48 |          139 |          104 |          220 |
+  Do. and Gin, foreign    |           46 |           11 |           20 |           21 |           38 |
+Portuguese Wines          |          745 |          645 |        1,427 |        1,320 |          761 |
+  Do.  foreign            |          247 | ------------ |           81 |            4 |           55 |
+Wheaten Flour, arrobas    |       10,228 |       26,524 |       18,538 |       25,872 |       21,838 |
+Salt Fish, quintals       |          401 |          252 |          296 |          818 |          938 |
+Butter, arrobas           |        5,785 |        4,628 |        4,220 |        5,198 |        4,625 |
+Cheese, arrobas           |        1,179 |          642 |        1,243 |        1,750 |        2,229 |
+Balance in favour of }    | ------------ |  190,867,692 | ------------ |  325,175,700 |1,090,305,135 |
+  Maranham           }    |              |              |              |              |              |
+  Do.  against            |  203,167,456 | ------------ |   30,586,797 | ------------ | ------------ |
+Proceeds of the Customs   |   74,648,957 |   83,963,025 |   83,429,147 |   81,317,345 |  112,633,410 |
+Portuguese Ships arrived  |           52 |           64 |           70 |           69 |           80 |
+  Do.  foreign            |           34 |           29 |           12 |           43 |           58 |
+Total Ships               |           86 |           93 |           82 |          112 |          138 |
+New Slaves from Africa    |          992 |        1,221 |        1,592 |        2,692 |        2,615 |
+  Do.  from Brazil        |          680 |          508 |          394 |          684 |          762 |
+Total Slaves imported }   |        1,672 |        1,729 |        1,986 |        3,376 |        3,377 |
+  in the Year         }   |              |              |              |              |              |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Total Number of Slaves imported, from 1812 to 1821, - - - 45,477.
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM, FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.
+(Continued)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+    1817.     |    1818.     |    1819.     |    1820.     |Mean of first five| Mean of second |    1821.     |
+              |              |              |              |    Years.        |   Five Years.  |              |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------|----------------|--------------|
+    Rees.     |    Rees.     |    Rees.     |      Rees.   |      Rees.       |    Rees.       |    Rees.     |
+  635,642,720 |  687,505,720 |  616,297,520 |  271,501,280 |  300,194,336     |  496,454,680   |  293,618,720 |
+  988,100,000 |  759,320,000 |  934,069,500 |  326,230,200 |  265,895,180     |  685,061,940   |  193,583,790 |
+  743,334,230 |  569,961,450 |  527,062,435 |  474,282,020 |  410,380,813     |  613,338,389   |  331,483,280 |
+  255,289,960 |  149,862,520 |  144,499,960 |  149,927,240 |   97,313,930     |  175,674,752   |  112,652,710 |
+  878,979,730 |  908,004,920 |  562,534,950 |  435,639,960 |  589,842,761     |  667,075,350   |  442,757,290 |
+--------------|--------------|--------------|    9,491,000 |------------------|----------------|--------------|
+   77,940,200 |  108,261,640 |   92,154,390 |   66,430,800 |------------------|   75,538,774   |  116,099,750 |
+--------------|   20,076,200 |   14,947,260 |    7,374,460 |------------------|----------------|    2,325,600 |
+  102,164,290 |  178,041,520 |   75,136,180 |  132,282,730 |------------------|  108,616,744   |   40,091,590 |
+--------------|   13,625,600 |    2,320,000 |   12,091,000 |------------------|----------------|--------------|
+--------------|   17,169,400 |--------------|--------------|------------------|----------------|--------------|
+3,681,451,130 |3,411,828,970 |2,983,022,195 |1,885,250,690 |1,709,760,809     |2,841,179,613   |1,532,612,730 |
+   27,706,200 |   11,797,100 |    6,059,565 |    5,392,360 |   12,250,420     |   14,634,625   |--------------|
+   33,375,120 |   33,161,620 |   13,619,060 |   13,838,600 |   14,056,060     |   22,571,520   |--------------|
+   57,456,520 |   49,855,700 |   23,041,480 |   28,261,380 |   29,723,480     |   41,776,216   |--------------|
+  307,923,950 |  175,888,560 |  111,670,680 |   83,702,900 |  120,768,112     |  168,261,274   |--------------|
+   89,924,400 |   44,665,120 |   49,258,310 |   33,272,580 |   20,065,200     |   54,370,532   |--------------|
+  506,977,320 |  579,338,910 |  359,983,900 |  212,115,710 |  362,556,194     |  420,601,896   |--------------|
+    1,746,000 |      672,000 |      490,000 |      240,000 |------------------|      784,400   |--------------|
+  103,453,400 |   96,565,780 |   55,042,700 |   46,099,960 |   36,879,470     |   70,341,748   |--------------|
+        3,663 |        3,966 |        4,579 |        5,263 |        3,292     |        4,578   |--------------|
+       12,826 |       21,868 |       10,196 |        9,219 |        5,755     |       12,186   |--------------|
+       27,552 |       12,180 |        9,324 |        2,876 |       10,668     |       13,662   |--------------|
+       22,686 |       25,224 |        4,961 |        5,122 |        8,775     |       14,509   |--------------|
+    1,254,440 |    3,347,040 |    7,002,920 |    7,312,400 |    2,614,756     |    4,261,180   |--------------|
+    4,886,400 |    6,934,300 |    3,305,000 |    1,477,000 |    1,348,400     |    3,536,700   |--------------|
+   22,220,000 |   24,240,000 |   23,590,000 |    4,020,000 |    9,150,920     |   18,534,000   |--------------|
+   10,800,000 |   17,400,000 |    6,600,000 |    9,800,000 |    2,298,400     |    9,920,000   |--------------|
+          288 |          265 |          303 |          221 |          111     |          259   |          657 |
+           76 |          109 |          132 |          269 |           27     |          124   |--------------|
+        2,047 |          694 |        1,879 |        2,226 |        1,179     |        1,921   |        1,620 |
+          382 |          442 |           54 |          204 |           77     |          227   |          260 |
+       40,080 |       53,082 |       52,689 |       45,687 |       20,600     |       42,675   |       82,221 |
+        2,237 |        5,786 |        1,799 |        1,669 |          541     |        2,485   |--------------|
+        9,624 |       10,453 |        8,187 |        8,751 |        4,891     |        8,328   |--------------|
+        3,398 |        3,621 |        2,717 |        3,541 |        1,427     |           99   |--------------|
+--------------|  257,858,230 |--------------|  352,145,615 |------------------|1,379,412,568   |--------------|
+  132,588,568 |--------------|  470,596,983 |--------------|------------------|----------------|--------------|
+  150,145,175 |  247,213,751 |  219,786,377 |  158,517,700 |   87,198,376     |  167,659,282   |  115,686,300 |
+           89 |           79 |           80 |           61 |           67     |           77   |           48 |
+           63 |          100 |           57 |           80 |           35     |           71   |           56 |
+          152 |          179 |          137 |          141 |          102     |          149   |          104 |
+        5,797 |        3,377 |        4,784 |        2,381 |        1,822     |        3,790   |        1,718 |
+        2,325 |        3,259 |        1,269 |          483 |          713     |        1,619   |--------------|
+        8,122 |        6,636 |        6,053 |        2,864 |        2,535     |        5,409   |        1,718 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.
+(Continued below)
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-------------------------|
+                                                                 COTTON                                                 |         RICE            |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Y|       |  LISBON      |   OPORTO     |   ENGLAND   |    FRANCE    |    UNITED    | Different  | High    |    TOTAL    |    LISBON   |   OPORTO  |
+E|       |              |              |             |              |    STATES    |    Ports.  |and Low  |             |             |           |
+A|       |              |              |             |              |              |            | Price.  |             |             |           |
+R|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |        3,305 |          562 |       36,523|--------------|         150  |         30 | 2,700 to|       40,570|       47,780|    17,150 |
+8|Arrobas|       17,591 |        2,997 |      196,154|--------------|         827  |        135 |  3,400  |      217,754|      253,890|    90,080 |
+1|Amount |   56,087,050 |    9,298,293 |  598,742,727|--------------|   2,317,787  |    519,925 |         |  666,965,782|  257,719,470| 94,777,080|
+2|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |        8,938 |        1,127 |       50,108|--------------|--------------|------------| 3,000 to|       60,173|       39,728|    21,211 |
+8|Arrobas|       48,003 |        5,960 |      272,730|--------------|--------------|------------|  4,600  |      326,693|      206,787|   112,453 |
+1|Amount |  188,275,184 |   23,515,043 |1,058,815,456|--------------|--------------|------------|         |1,245,605,683|  206,448,300|116,376,750|
+3|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       12,144 |        1,204 |       31,236|         2,087|--------------|------------| 4,100 to|       46,671|       45,615|    24,444 |
+8|Arrobas|       65,045 |        6,351 |      166,459|        10,527|--------------|------------|  5,000  |      248,385|      242,417|   125,747 |
+1|Amount |  401,063,336 |   36,790,539 |  913,032,959|    63,692,999|--------------|------------|         |1,414,579,833|  219,802,820|111,238,700|
+4|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       18,276 |        1,672 |       30,804|--------------|--------------|          5 | 4,400 to|       50,757|       51,161|     20,068|
+8|Arrobas|      100,000 |        8,977 |      168,877|--------------|--------------|         25 |  7,000  |      277,879|      272,607|    104,738|
+1|Amount |  577,330,200 |   50,109,500 |1,077,256,700|--------------|--------------|    160,000 |         |1,704,856,400|  229,406,200| 84,260,500|
+5|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       19,040 |        2,082 |       38,835|         3,570|--------------|------------| 4,500 to|       63,527|       57,585|     24,550|
+8|Arrobas|      105,448 |       10,822 |      214,538|        19,413|--------------|------------|  8,500  |      350,257|      293,787|    123,830|
+1|Amount |  892,691,100 |   93,221,455 |1,857,112,006|   166,226,425|--------------|------------|         |3,003,250,986|  248,658,750| 98,699,085|
+6|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       25,830 |        3,788 |       38,369|         3,145|--------------|------------| 7,000 to|       71,182|       31,804|     19,658|
+8|Arrobas|      144,904 |       20,925 |      218,343|        17,557|--------------|------------| 10,000  |      401,729|      168,565|    103,668|
+1|Amount |1,106,601,700 |  157,833,900 |1,703,908,950|   132,448,300|--------------|------------|         |3,100,792,850|  194,752,275|130,820,437|
+7|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       16,294 |        3,251 |       49,083|         4,899|           33 |         170| 7,000 to|       73,730|       48,252|     25,037|
+8|Arrobas|       88,488 |       18,595 |      267,164|        27,488|          205 |         853|  9,000  |      402,793|      224,263|    133,167|
+1|Amount |  680,206,400 |  145,041,000 |2,083,879,200|   233,313,800|    1,599,000 |   6,658,400|         |3,150,692,800|  260,115,600|158,600,400|
+8|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       16,625 |        2,629 |       40,291|         5,910|--------------|           8| 7,500 to|       65,463|       41,993|     22,934|
+8|Arrobas|       91,074 |       14,212 |      222,623|        31,326|--------------|          45|  8,600  |      359,280|      220,562|    116,184|
+1|Amount |  517,821,500 |    81,745,500|1,333,142,384|   203,052,350|--------------|     238,833|         |2,136,000,537|  201,039,450|104,074,950|
+9|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       12,799 |         2,311|       48,279|         2,915|--------------|         315| 4,900 to|       66,619|       43,034|     21,205|
+8|Arrobas|       67,730 |        12,493|      268,736|        16,502|--------------|       1,732|  5,500  |      367,193|      214,842|    106,764|
+2|Amount |  357,766,700 |    66,169,900|1,406,080,282|    36,508,600|--------------|   9,006,400|         |1,925,531,882|  159,720,609| 79,815,814|
+0|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+1|No.    |       10,930 |           873|       26,364|         3,655|--------------|------------| 3,900 to|       41,822|       42,289|     13,391|
+8|Arrobas|       58,836 |         4,592|      143,771|        18,899|--------------|------------|  4,850  |      226,118|      212,824|     68,969|
+2|Amount |  253,675,950 |    18,825,000|  600,658,671|    85,097,600|--------------|------------|         |  958,257,221|  161,116,775| 53,557,814|
+1|       |              |              |             |              |              |            |         |             |             |           |
+---------|--------------|--------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|------------|---------|-------------|-------------|-----------|
+
+
+GENERAL STATEMENT OF EXPORT FROM MARANAHAM FROM 1812 TO 1821.
+(Continued)
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+        RICE.                     |          TANNED HIDES          |        HIDES                  |       SKINS        |         GUM.         |    SUNDRIES.   |
+                                  |                                |    Dry and Green.             |                    |     _Alqueires_      |                |
+----------------------------------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ Different |High and  |  Total    ||Lisbon|Oporto|Different|Medium |Lisbon |Oporto| Divers |Medium |Lisbon|Oporto|Medium|Lisbon |Oporto|Medium |  Divers Ports. |
+    Ports. |Low Prices|           |       |      |  Ports. | Price |       |      | Ports. | Price |      |      | Price|       |      | Price |                |
+-----------|----------------------|-------|------|---------|-------|-------|------|--------|-------|------|------|------|-------|------|-------|----------------|
+      2,099|  600 to  |     67,029|  1593 |   480|     570 |  2100 |   5229|   243|   6811 |    770|  3263|    36|   750|   1903|   834|   2050|                |
+     10,676|  1,300   |    354,646|                    5,550,300   |                   9,457,140   |          2,474,250 |        5,610,850     |                |
+ 11,811,200|          |354,308,220|                                |                               |                    |                      |  25,581,550    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+      5,275|  650 to  |     66,214|  6671 |   300|         |  2100 |   7353|  1114|    248 |    750|  4769|  5072|   730|   1752|   503|   3000|                |
+     28,165|  1,200   |    854,646|                   14,639,100   |                   6,536,250   |          7,380,750 |        6,916,500     |                |
+ 28,145,000|          |350,970,050|                                |                               |                    |                      |  12,667,025    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        892|  800 to  |     70,957|  7380 |   758|         |  2000 |   6785|  1071|   2277 |    900|  7693|  3554|   900|   1891|   368|   2400|                |
+      4,088|  1,000   |    372,252|                   16,276,000   |                   9,919,700   |         10,122,300 |        5,428,600     |                |
+  3,536,200|          |334,577,720|                                |                               |                    |                      |   5,585,250    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+         50|  800 to  |     71,279|  8649 |  1785|         |  2500 |  15288|  2419|   1282 |   1200|  8235|  5102|   950|   1743|     4|   1800|                |
+        270|  1,000   |    377,605|                   26,085,000   |                  22,786,800   |         12,670,150 |        3,144,605     |                |
+    249,600|          |313,916,300|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,190,000    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ --------- |  700 to  |     82,135|  7085 |  1142|         |  2500 |  22133|  3867|    235 |   1200| 17268|  8690|   950|   1547|   104|   1300|                |
+ --------- |  1,000   |    417,617|                   20,567,500   |                  31,482,000   |         24,660,100 |        2,971,800     |                |
+ --------- |          |347,317,835|                                |                               |                    |                      |   4,400,000    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+      4,921| 1,000 to |     56,383|  7456 |  1406|         |  2500 |   1595|  4287|    496 |   1200| 31449|  7397|   950|   2577|   684|   800 |                |
+     25,134|  1,300   |    297,417|                   22,155,000   |                  24,889,200   |         36,903,700 |        5,869,800     |                |
+ 24,524,000|          |350,096,712|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,155,300    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        677| 1,150 to |     68,966|  8342 |   720|       50|  2700 |   4531|  1177|   5669 |   1250| 32460|  6395|   950|   1994|   202|  1800 |                |
+      3,663|  1,400   |    360,093|                   24,602,400   |                  14,221,250   |         36,912,250 |        3,952,800     |                |
+  4,362,500|          |432,078,500|                                |                               |                    |                      |   8,651,500    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+ --------- |   700 to |     64,927|   200 |  1977|     3411|  3000 |    150|    55|  27895 |    950|  4385|  3720|   875|   2883|   500|  1950 |                |
+ --------- |  1,300   |    336,746|                   16,764,000   |                  26,695,000   |         19,007,625 |        6,596,850     |                |
+ --------- |          |505,114,400|                                |                               |                    |                      |   2,246,800    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+        497|   700 to |     64,736|  9813 |  1394|      140|  2800 |   3620|   687|  13795 |   1500|  2241|  3138|  1100|   1771|   417|  2000 |                |
+      2,575|   900    |    324,121|                   31,771,600   |                  27,453,000   |          5,905,930 |        4,376,000     |                |
+  1,650,000|          |241,184,423|                                |                               |                    |                      |   1,173,500    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------|
+        590|   600 to |     56,270|  9615 |   678|      144|  2800 |   4226|   850|  22306 |   1800| 18414|   850|  1000|   2845|   957|  2000 |                |
+      1,428|   640    |    284,721|                   28,921,600   |                  41,073,000   |         49,261,000 |        6,404,000     |                |
+  1,071,000|          |216,765,975|                                |                               |                    |                      |  33,971,279    |
+-----------|----------|-----------|--------------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|----------------------|----------------|
+
+
+RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.
+(Continued below)
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+   DESTINATION.        |      1812.   |     1813.    |      1814.   |      1815.   |      1816.    |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Lisbon                 |  329,129,250 |  431,910,360 |  657,262,706 |  850,902,450 |1,207,011,150  |
+Oporto                 |  109,206,658 |  147,234,848 |  154,551,839 |  146,581,700 |  208,018,640  |
+England                |  601,688,917 |1,060,051,156 |  917,043,259 |1,078,845,100 |1,852,712,000  |
+France                 |--------------|--------------|   63,971,999 |--------------|  166,908,425  |
+United States          |   10,304,419 |--------------|--------------|--------------|---------------|
+Different Ports        |   19,522,655 |    6,569,000 |    1,432,200 |      409,690 |---------------|
+Total of the Exports   |1,069,951,894 |1,645,795,359 |1,794,262,003 |2,076,738,850 |3,434,650,215  |
+Export Duties on Cotton|  130,654,878 |  196,016,626 |  148,634,103 |  166,727,400 |  210,154,200  |
+National Ship sailed   |           52 |           62 |           66 |           66 |           77  |
+Foreign Ships sailed   |           35 |           27 |           14 |           39 |           54  |
+Total Ships sailed     |           87 |           89 |           80 |          105 |          131  |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.
+(Continued)
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-----------------|
+     1817.      |      1818.      |    1819      |     1820        | Mean of First   | Mean of Second  |      1821.      |
+                |                 |              |                 |  Five Years.    |   Five Years.   |                 |
+----------------|-----------------|--------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------|
+ 1,377,936,025  |  1,012,630,550  |   730,509,375|   556,768,709   |   695,249,183   |   976,971,161   |   483,451,725   |
+   309,450,087  |    316,367,700  |   196,421,700|   155,742,814   |   153,138,735   |   237,200,138   |    88,312,150   |
+ 1,728,432,950  |  2,084,502,450  | 1,333,142,354| 1,406,996,782   | 1,102,068,086   | 1,681,157,507   |   602,368,671   |
+   132,448,300  |    242,214,100  |   203,392,000|    86,879,600   | --------------- |   166,368,185   |    85,130,200   |
+ -------------- |      7,319,000  |    48,720,959|    20,168,000   | --------------- | --------------- |    43,332,000   |
+       595,200  |      6,653,400  |       238,833|     9,126,400   | --------------- | --------------- |     1,020,250   |
+ 3,548,862,562  |  3,669,687,200  | 2,512,425,212| 2,237,396,305   | 2,004,279,664   | 3,080,604,298   | 2,304,685,996   |
+   241,037,400  |    241,675,800  |   215,568,000|   220,315,800   |   170,437,441   |   225,750,240   |   153,319,999   |
+            86  |             77  |            78|            63   |            64   |            76   |            49   |
+            65  |             78  |            66|            70   |            34   |            66   |            65   |
+           151  |            155  |           144|           133   |            98   |           143   |           114   |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+        STATE OF INDUSTRY.
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+      All the Provinces.              |      Where.          |Quantity|  Daily |  Daily  |  Total  |
+                                      |                      |        |Maximum |Minimum. |         |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+Commerce and |National Houses         |City of Maranhao      |      54|        |         |         |
+Industry.    |Ditto foreign           |    Ditto             |       4|        |         |         |
+             |Men living by their own |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |  industry              |All the provinces     | 29  580|        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+             |Steam engine for        |City of Maranhao      |       1|        |         |         |
+Machines,    |  shelling rice.        |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |Machines, with mules,   |    Ditto             |      22|        |         |         |
+Potteries,   | for shelling rice      |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             |Ditto for sugar         |Interior              |       7|        |         |         |
+Furnaces,    |Ditto for bruising cane |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             | for distilling         |    Ditto             |     115|        |         |         |
+and Forges.  |Hand machines for       |                      |        |        |         |         |
+             | cleansing cotton       |    Ditto             |     521|        |         |         |
+             |Manufactory of          |Isle of Maranhao      |       1|        |         |         |
+             |Looms for weaving cotton|In the city           |     230|        |         |         |
+             |Potteries               |    Ditto             |      27|        |         |         |
+             |Lime kilns              |Isle of Maranhao      |      26|        |         |         |
+             |Saw pits                |All the provinces     |      18|        |         |         |
+             |Forges                  |    Ditto             |     132|        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Taylors.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      61|  1,000 |     320 |     157 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      96|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Braziers.    |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    600 |     320 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Carpenters.  |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      86|    800 |     320 |     269 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     183|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Woodcutters. |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      96|  1,200 |     400 |     138 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      42|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+  Ship       |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      80|    800 |     320 |     118 |
+Carpenters.  |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      38|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+  Smiths     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       5|    800 |     400 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |        |  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Blacksmiths. |Freemen                 |City of Maranhao      |      37|    700 |     320 |      60 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      23|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Coopers.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       2|     48 |     320 |       3 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Joiners.     |Freemen                 |All the provinces     |      30|    800 |     400 |      57 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      27|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Goldsmiths.  |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |      49|    640 |     400 |      60 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |      11|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Masons and   |Freemen                 |City of Maranhao      |     404|    800 |     320 |   1,012 |
+Stone-cutters|Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     608|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Painters.    |Freemen                 |All the provinces     |      10|    640 |     400 |      15 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       5|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Carpenters.  |Freemen                 |City of Maranhao      |      92|    800 |     400 |     235 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |     143|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Sadlers.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    800 |     400 |       5 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       1|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Tanners.     |Freemen                 |    Ditto             |       4|    480 |     320 |      10 |
+             |Slaves                  |    Ditto             |       6|  Ditto |  Ditto  |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Workwomen and|Free                    |                      |        |        |         |   1,800 |
+Female       |Slaves                  |    Ditto             | 1   800|    240 |     160 |         |
+ Servants.   |                        |                      |        |        |         |         |
+-------------|------------------------|----------------------|--------|--------|---------|---------|
+Servants     |Whites                  |All the provinces     |     560|Variable|Variable |     760 |
+and Factors. |Free blacks             |All the provinces     |     200|Variable|Variable |         |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+        STATEMENT OF PRODUCE.
+-------------------------------------------------------------------|
+  In the whole province.    |  Produce.   | Consumption |  Medium  |
+                            |             |             |   Value. |
+----------------------------|-------------|-------------|----------|
+New Cotton      arrobas     |  225518     |   11600     |    3900  |
+Spirits         pipes       |     385     |     405     |   60000  |
+Rice            alqueires   |  570079     |  380945     |     570  |
+Sugar           arrobas     |     417     |   20000     |    3200  |
+Oil             canadas     |   68386     |   30018     |     600  |
+Potatoes        arrobas     |    2420     |    8600     |    1200  |
+Currie          ditas       |      83     |      32     |    2500  |
+Coffee          ditas       |    1020     |     880     |    3200  |
+Dry Beef        ditas       |   48924     |   64200     |    2000  |
+Wax             ditas       |      37     |     500     |    3200  |
+Hides           numero      |   28876     |    2578     |    1800  |
+Beans           alqueires   |    3128     |    3500     |    1400  |
+Fruits          number      |      36     |   todas     |  variable|
+Ginger          arrobas     |      28     |       6     |    2400  |
+Mandioc         alqueires   |  207899     |  198810     |     900  |
+Treacle         barrels     |    6988     |    2381     |     170  |
+Maize           alqueires   |   77172     |   todo      |     700  |
+Salt Fish       arrobas     |   15254     |   todo      |    1000  |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------|
+              STATEMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
+       |In the whole | Employed | Existing. |Mean Worth.|      Daily.  |
+       |  Province   |          |           |           |              |
+-------|-------------|----------|-----------|-----------|--------------|
+Persons|Freemen      |  19960   |   35618   |-----------|de 240 a 326  |
+       |Slaves       |  69534   |   84434   |  200000   |de 160 a 240  |
+-------|-------------|----------|-----------|-----------|--------------|
+       |Oxen         |   8811   |  130640   |   10000   |--------------|
+       |Asses        |----------|      28   |   20000   |--------------|
+       |Goats        |----------|    7400   |    1200   |--------------|
+       |Sheep        |----------|    1800   |    2000   |--------------|
+Cattle.|Horses       |    600   |   12240   |   20000   |--------------|
+       |Mares        |----------|    9400   |   10000   |--------------|
+       |Mules        |   1100   |    3200   |   45000   |--------------|
+       |Ewes         |----------|     890   |    1200   |--------------|
+       |Cows         |----------|   20400   |   12000   |--------------|
+ Total Amount of Agriculture      1,897,271,846                        |
+ Capital employed                27,813,600,000                        |
+ Number of Farms                          4,856                        |
+ Number of Proprietors                    2,683                        |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+_Note_.--The worth is calculated in rees, the 1,000, or milree, being
+worth 5s. 2d. sterling.
+
+
+THE END
+
+LONDON:
+
+Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.
+
+ERRATA. (already corrected)
+
+Page 30. line 20. for _hopes_ read _losses_.
+
+41. 21. for _1817_ read _1807_.
+
+45. in the list of ships that remained at Lisbon, last line but one, for
+_Ferlao_ read _Tritao_.
+
+47. line 12. for _Ponta_ read _Ponte_.
+
+57. 4. for _ambassader_ read _ambassador_.
+
+59. 17. for _sodier_ read _soldier_.
+
+61. 4. for _government_ read _governments_.
+
+64. in the first line of note + for _not_ read _most_.
+
+65. line 13. for _Custovao_ read _Cristovao_.
+
+69. 6. for _Cauler_ read _Caula_.
+
+79. 21. for _fuchsia_ read _fuschia_.
+
+126. 16. for _impotation_ read _importation_.
+
+130. 23. for _nove_ read _nova_.
+
+141. 4. from bottom, for _Pinja_ read _Piraja_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, by Maria Graham
+
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diff --git a/old/21201.zip b/old/21201.zip
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal Of A Voyage To Brazil (General Statement Of The Imports To Maranham), by Maria Graham.
+    </title>
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+<td align="center" colspan="13" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right: 1px solid black;border-top: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>GENERAL STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS TO MARANHAM,<br />FROM THE YEAR 1812 TO 1820.</b></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">COUNTRIES WHENCE IMPORTED.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1812</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1813</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1814</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1815</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1816</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1817</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1818</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1819</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1820</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Mean of second</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Mean of first five</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1821</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">Rees.</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Brazil</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">244,506,690</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">284,211,812</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">416,508,747</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">284,418,270</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">271,326,160</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">635,642,720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">687,505,720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">616,297,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">271,501,280</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">300,194,336</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">496,454,680</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">293,618,720</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese ports in Africa</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">146,817,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">181,610,811</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">221,219,843</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">371,238,250</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">408,590,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">988,100,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">759,320,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">934,069,500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">326,230,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">265,895,180</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">685,061,940</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">193,583,790</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Lisbon</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">167,431,350</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">256,407,277</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">417,018,290</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">458,595,340</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">752,051,810</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">743,334,230</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">569,961,450</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">527,062,435</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">474,282,020</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">410,380,813</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">613,338,389</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">331,483,280</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Oporte</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">69,103,210</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">74,842,710</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">70,429,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">98,399,750</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">173,794,080</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">255,289,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">149,862,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">144,499,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">149,927,240</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">97,313,930</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">175,674,752</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">112,652,710</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">England</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">581,682,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">654,891,057</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">696,425,620</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">465,997,240</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">550,217,190</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">878,979,730</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">908,004,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">562,534,950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">435,639,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">589,842,761</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">667,075,350</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">442,757,290</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Gibraltar</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,848,800</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,246,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,491,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">United States</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">49,729,600</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,250,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">32,906,840</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">77,940,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">108,261,640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">92,154,390</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">66,430,800</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">75,538,774</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">116,099,750</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Western Isles</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,964,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20,076,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,947,260</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,374,460</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,325,600</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">France</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">60,662,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">55,459,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">102,164,290</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">178,041,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">75,136,180</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">132,282,730</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">108,616,744</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">40,091,590</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Holland</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,625,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,320,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,091,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Spain</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,169,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Annual amount</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,273,119,340</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,454,927,667</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,824,848,800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,751,563,150</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,244,245,080</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,681,451,130</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,411,828,970</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,983,022,195</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,885,250,690</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,709,760,809</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,841,179,613</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,532,612,730</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Silk Goods Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,694,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,836,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,880,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11,622,780</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,217,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">27,706,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11,797,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,059,565</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,392,360</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,250,420</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,634,625</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,601,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,447,500</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">15,647,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,720,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,863,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,375,120</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,161,620</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,619,060</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,838,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,056,060</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,571,520</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Linen Goods Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">26,832,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,170,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">19,476,800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">29,872,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">50,266,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">57,456,520</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">49,855,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">23,041,480</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">28,261,380</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">29,723,480</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">41,776,216</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">69,031,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">125,357,220</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">172,292,860</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">74,989,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">162,170,280</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">307,923,950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">175,888,560</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">111,670,680</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">83,702,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">120,768,112</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">168,261,274</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Cotton Goods Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,085,640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,375,730</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,859,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21,273,380</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">54,732,250</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">89,924,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">44,665,120</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">49,258,310</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,272,580</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20,065,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">54,370,532</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">349,295,440</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">324,792,020</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">316,213,050</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">377,886,820</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">444,593,640</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">506,977,320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">579,338,910</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">359,983,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">212,115,710</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">362,556,194</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">420,601,896</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Woolen Cloths Portuguese</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">198,720</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">272,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">774,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,746,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">672,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">490,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">240,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">784,400</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">33,487,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">39,377,950</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">43,725,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,259,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">50,546,900</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">103,453,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">96,565,780</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">55,042,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">46,099,960</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">36,879,470</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">70,341,748</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Fine Hats Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">946</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,292</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,402</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,419</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,663</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,966</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,579</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,263</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,292</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,578</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,228</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,140</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,795</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,193</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,422</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,826</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21,868</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,196</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,219</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,755</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,186</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Coarse Hats Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11,689</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,623</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,225</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,424</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">16,380</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">27,552</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12,180</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,324</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,876</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,668</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">13,662</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,774</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,735</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,976</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,836</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,555</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,686</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">25,224</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,961</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,122</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,775</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">14,509</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Clothes and Shoes Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,465,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,817,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,054,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,346,880</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,389,100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,254,440</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,347,040</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,002,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">7,312,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,614,756</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,261,180</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,232,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">500,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,200,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,729,200</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,080,800</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,886,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,934,300</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,305,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,477,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,348,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,536,700</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Movables Portuguese</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,494,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,360,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,700,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,600,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,600,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">22,220,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">24,240,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">23,590,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,020,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,150,920</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,534,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,244,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,734,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,120,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,400,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,000,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,800,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">17,400,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">6,600,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,800,000</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,298,400</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,920,000</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese brandy Pipes</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">45</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">48</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">139</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">104</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">220</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">288</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">265</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">303</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">221</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">111</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">259</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">657</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do. and Gin, foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">46</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">11</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">38</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">76</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">109</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">132</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">269</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">27</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">124</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese Wines</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">745</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">645</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,427</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,320</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">761</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,047</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">694</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,879</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,226</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,179</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,921</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,620</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">247</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">81</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">55</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">382</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">442</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">54</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">204</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">77</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">227</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">260</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Wheaten Flour, arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,228</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">26,524</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">18,538</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">25,872</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">21,838</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">40,080</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">53,082</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">52,689</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">45,687</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">20,600</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">42,675</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">82,221</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Salt Fish, quintals</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">401</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">252</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">296</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">818</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">938</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,237</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,786</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,799</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,669</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">541</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,485</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Butter, arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,785</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,628</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,220</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,198</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,625</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">9,624</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">10,453</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,187</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,751</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,891</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">8,328</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Cheese, arrobas</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,179</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">642</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,243</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,750</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,229</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,398</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,621</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,717</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,541</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,427</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">99</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Balance in favour of Maranham</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">190,867,692</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">325,175,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,090,305,135</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">257,858,230</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">352,145,615</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,379,412,568</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do. against</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">203,167,456</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">30,586,797</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">132,588,568</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">470,596,983</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Proceeds of the Customs</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">74,648,957</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">83,963,025</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">83,429,147</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">81,317,345</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">112,633,410</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">150,145,175</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">247,213,751</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">219,786,377</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">158,517,700</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">87,198,376</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">167,659,282</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">115,686,300</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Portuguese Ships arrived</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">52</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">64</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">70</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">69</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">89</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">79</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">61</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">67</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">77</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">48</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;foreign</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">34</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">29</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">12</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">43</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">58</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">63</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">100</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">57</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">80</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">35</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">71</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">56</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">Total Ships</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">86</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">93</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">82</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">112</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">138</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">152</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">179</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">137</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">141</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">102</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">149</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">104</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">New Slaves from Africa</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">992</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,221</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,592</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,692</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,615</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">5,797</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,377</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">4,784</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,381</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,822</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,790</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,718</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;">&nbsp;&nbsp;Do. from Brazil</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">680</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">508</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">394</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">684</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">762</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">2,325</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">3,259</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,269</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">483</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">713</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">1,619</td>
+<td align="center" style="border-right: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td style="border-right: 1px solid black; border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">Total&nbsp;Slaves&nbsp;imported&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;Year</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,672</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,729</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,986</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">3,376</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">3,377</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">8,122</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">6,636</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">6,053</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">2,864</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">2,535</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">5,409</td>
+<td align="right" style="border-right: 1px solid black;border-bottom: 1px solid black;">1,718</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal Of A Voyage To BrazIl (Recapitulation Of Exports), by Maria Graham.
+    </title>
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+<table summary="recap" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" style="font-size: 100%;">
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="13"><span style="font-size: 125%;"><b>RECAPITULATION OF EXPORTS.</b></span></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">DESTINATION.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1812.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1813.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1814.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1815.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1816.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1817.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1818.</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1819</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">1820</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;"> Mean of First Five Years</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;">Mean of Second Five Years</td><td align="center" style="border-top:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 1821.</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Lisbon</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 329,129,250</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 431,910,360</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 657,262,706</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 850,902,450</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,207,011,150</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,377,936,025</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,012,630,550</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 730,509,375</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 556,768,709</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 695,249,183</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 976,971,161</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 483,451,725</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Oporto</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 109,206,658</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 147,234,848</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 154,551,839</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 146,581,700</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 208,018,640</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 309,450,087</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 316,367,700</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 196,421,700</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 155,742,814</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 153,138,735</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 237,200,138</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 88,312,150</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">England</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 601,688,917</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,060,051,156</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 917,043,259</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,078,845,100</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,852,712,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,728,432,950</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,084,502,450</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,333,142,354</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,406,996,782</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,102,068,086</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,681,157,507</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 602,368,671</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">France</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 63,971,999</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,908,425</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 132,448,300</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 242,214,100</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 203,392,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 86,879,600</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,368,185</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 85,130,200</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">United States</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 10,304,419</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 7,319,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 48,720,959</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 20,168,000</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 43,332,000</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Different Ports</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 19,522,655</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 6,569,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 1,432,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 409,690</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 595,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 6,653,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 238,833</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 9,126,400</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="center" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 1,020,250</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Total of the Exports</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,069,951,894</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,645,795,359</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">1,794,262,003</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">2,076,738,850</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;">3,434,650,215</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,548,862,562</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,669,687,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,512,425,212</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,237,396,305</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 2,004,279,664</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 3,080,604,298</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 2,304,685,996</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Export&nbsp;Duties&nbsp;on&nbsp;Cotton</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 130,654,878</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 196,016,626</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 148,634,103</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 166,727,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 210,154,200</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 241,037,400</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 241,675,800</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 215,568,000</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 220,315,800</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 170,437,441</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 225,750,240</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 153,319,999</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">National Ship sailed</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 52</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 62</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 77</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 86</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 77</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 78</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 63</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 64</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 76</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 49</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;">Foreign Ships sailed</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 35</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 27</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 14</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 39</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 54</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 65</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 78</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 70</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 34</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;"> 66</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;"> 65</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
+<tr><td style="border-left:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;">Total Ships sailed</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 87</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 89</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 80</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 105</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 131</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 151</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 155</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 144</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 133</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 98</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 143</td><td align="right" style="border-left: 1px solid black;border-right:1px solid black;border-bottom:1px solid black;"> 114</td><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; </td></tr>
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