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If you +don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are +payable to "Project Gutenberg Association/Carnegie-Mellon +University" within the 60 days following each +date you prepare (or were legally required to prepare) +your annual (or equivalent periodic) tax return. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? The +Project gratefully accepts contributions in money, time, scanning +machines, OCR software, public domain etexts, royalty free +copyright licenses, and every other sort of contribution you can +think of. Money should be paid to "Project Gutenberg Association +/ Carnegie-Mellon University". + +*END*THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + + +THE NILE TRIBUTARIES OF ABYSSINIA AND THE +SWORD HUNTERS OF THE HAMRAN ARABS + +BY SIR SAMUEL W. BAKER, M.A., F.R.G.S. + + + + +I DEDICATE THIS BOOK, +WITH SPECIAL PERMISSION, +TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS ALBERT EDWARD, +PRINCE OF WALES, +AS THE FIRST OF +ENGLAND'S ROYAL RACE +WHO HAS SAILED UPON THE WATERS OF +THE NILE; +THE LAKE SOURCES OF WHICH MIGHTY RIVER ARE HONOURED +BY THE NAMES OF +HIS AUGUST PARENTS. + + + + +PREFACE. + +THE work entitled "The Albert N'yanza Great Basin of the Nile," +published in 1866, has given an account of the equatorial lake +system from which the Egyptian river derives its source. It has +been determined by the joint explorations of Speke, Grant, and +myself, that the rainfall of the equatorial districts supplies +two vast lakes, the Victoria and the Albert, of sufficient volume +to support the Nile throughout its entire course of thirty +degrees of latitude. Thus the parent stream, fed by never-failing +reservoirs, supplied by the ten months' rainfall of the equator, +rolls steadily on its way through arid sands and burning deserts +until it reaches the Delta of Lower Egypt. + +It would at first sight appear that the discovery of the lake +sources of the Nile had completely solved the mystery of ages, +and that the fertility of Egypt depended upon the rainfall of the +equator concentrated in the lakes Victoria and Albert; but the +exploration of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia divides the Nile +system into two proportions, and unravels the entire mystery of +the river, by assigning to each its due share in ministering to +the prosperity of Egypt. + +The lake sources of Central Africa support the life of Egypt, by +supplying a stream, throughout all seasons, that has sufficient +volume to support the exhaustion of evaporation and absorption; +but this stream, if unaided, could never overflow its banks, and +Egypt, thus deprived of the annual inundation, would simply +exist, and cultivation would be confined to the close vicinity of +the river. + +The inundation, which by its annual deposit of mud has actually +created the Delta of Lower Egypt, upon the overflow of which the +fertility of Egypt depends, has an origin entirely separate from +the lake-sources of Central Africa, and the supply of water is +derived exclusively from Abyssinia. + +The two grand affluents of Abyssinia are, the Blue Nile and the +Atbara, which join the main stream respectively in N. lat. 15 +degrees 30 minutes and 17 degrees 37 minutes. These rivers, +although streams of extreme grandeur during the period of the +Abyssinian rains, from the middle of June until September, are +reduced during the dry months to utter insignificance; the Blue +Nile becoming so shallow as to be unnavigable, and the Atbara +perfectly dry. At that time the water supply of Abyssinia having +ceased, Egypt depends solely upon the equatorial lakes and the +affluents of the White Nile, until the rainy season shall again +have flooded the two great Abyssinian arteries. That flood occurs +suddenly about the 20th of June, and the grand rush of water +pouring down the Blue Nile and the Atbara into the parent +channel, inundates Lower Egypt, and is the cause of its extreme +fertility. + +Not only is the inundation the effect of the Abyssinian rains, +but the deposit of mud that has formed the Delta, and which is +annually precipitated by the rising waters, is also due to the +Abyssinian streams, more especially to the river Atbara, which, +known as the Bahr el Aswat (Black River), carries a larger +proportion of soil than any other tributary of the Nile; +therefore, to the Atbara, above all other rivers, must the wealth +and fertility of Egypt be attributed. + +It may thus be stated: The equatorial lakes FEED Egypt; but the +Abyssinian rivers CAUSE THE INUNDATION. + +This being a concise summary of the Nile system, I shall describe +twelve months' exploration, during which I examined every +individual river that is tributary to the Nile from Abyssinia, +including the Atbara, Settite, Royan, Salaam, Angrab, Rahad, +Dinder, and the Blue Nile. The interest attached to these +portions of Africa differs entirely from that of the White Nile +regions, as the whole of Upper Egypt and Abyssinia is capable of +development, and is inhabited by races either Mohammedan or +Christian; while Central Africa is peopled by a hopeless race of +savages, for whom there is no prospect of civilization. + +The exploration of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia occupied the +first twelve months of my journey towards the Nile sources. +During this time, I had the opportunity of learning Arabic and of +studying the character of the people; both necessary +acquirements, which led to my ultimate success in reaching the +"Albert N'yanza." As the readers of the work of that title are +aware, I was accompanied throughout the entire journey by my +wife, who, with extraordinary hardihood and devotion, shared +every difficulty with which African travel is beset. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +ABOVE THE CATARACT. + +Sterility--Arrival at Korosko--Twenty-six Days from Cairo--The +Nubian Desert--Nature's Pyramids--Volcanic Bombs--The Stony Sea-- +The Camel's Grave--The Crows of Moorahd--A delicious +Draught--Rocks of the Desert--The perished Regiment--Arrival at +the Nile--Distance from Korosko--Gazelles of the Desert--Dryness +of the Atmosphere--Arrival at Berber--Halleem Effendi's +Garden--Halleem gives Advice--The Nile rising--Visit of the +Ladies--The Pillars of Sand--The Governor's Friendship--Save me +from my Friends. + + +CHAPTER II. + +The Cairo Dragoman Mahomet--Mahomet forsakes his Pistols--The +Route to the Atbara--The Dry Bed of the River--The Dome +Palm--Preparation of the Fruit--Pools of the Atbara--Collection +of Birds--Charms of the Desert--Suffering of Men and +Beasts--Collodabad--Hippopotamus kills the Arab--Daring Feat of +the Fish-Eagle--Hippopotamus-shooting--Hippopotami +bagged--Delight of the Arabs--Fishing--Catch a Tartar--Lose my +Turtle Soup--Gazelle-shooting--The Speed of the Gazelle-- +Preparation of Water-skins--Tanning the Hides--Shoot a +Crocodile--The River comes down--The mighty Stream of the +Atbara--Change in the Season. + + +CHAPTER III. + +WILD ASSES OF THE DESERT. + +My First and Last--Appetite for raw Meat--The Bishareen Arabs-- +Gozerajup--The First Rain--Limits of the Desert--The Hadendowa +Arabs--The Wells of Soojalup--Antelopes--Antelope Stalking--Arab +Migrations--The Arab's Prayer--The Barren Women--Difficulty in +fording the River Gash--Arrive at Cassala--Hospitality of the +Greek Merchant. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ROUTE FROM CASSALA TO SOUAKIM. + +Facilities of the Port of Souakim--Fortifications of +Cassala--Conquest of Nubia--Cruel Taxation--Extreme Cheapness of +Corn--Cultivation of Cereals--Arab Bread--Military Position of +Cassala--The Base--Prepare to start from Cassala--Mahomet's +Family Tree--Mahomet meets Relations--We cross the +Gash--Stalking the Ariel--Bagged the Game--Descent of +Vultures--Change of Scenery--The Source of the Delta--The Parent +of Egypt. + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE STORM. + +Cotton Farm of Malem Georgis--Ferocious Crocodiles--Shoot a +Monster--The Public Enemy--Resistance of a Crocodile's +Scales--Discover Gold--Heavy Action of the Camel--El Baggar +selects a Hygeen--The Easy-goer, suitable for a Lady--Hooked +Thorns of the Mimosa--We charge a Kittar Bush--The Scorpion's +Sting--Sudden Deluge--A Regiment of Scorpions--Valley of the +Atbara--The Migration of Camels--A Milk Diet--The Arab +Exodus--The Desert Patriarch. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +SHEIK ACHMET ABOU SINN. + +The Arab Welcome--Abou Sinn's Advice--Arab Tribes of Nubia--A +Hint to Octogenarians--The Arab Pomade--The Arab Lady's +Perfumery--The fatal Mixture--The Coiffure of the World--The Arab +Woman's Head-dress--"The Dust became Lice through all Egypt"--The +Arab Charms--The Rahat or Arab Kilt--Arab Weddings--No Divorce +Court--Anointing with Oil--Nomadic Habits of the +Arabs--Unchanging Customs of the Arabs--The Hand of God--Religion +of the Arabs. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE DEPARTURE. + +First-class Hygeens--Travelling Arrangements--The Evening +Bivouac--The Junction of the Settite River--Sheik Atalan Wat +Said--Abyssinian Frontier--Ismael Pasha burnt alive--Mek +Nimmur--The Enemy of Egypt--Arrival at Sofi--The +Reception--Position of Sofi--Florian, the German Settler--The +Cattle Fly--Peculiarities of the Seasons--The New Camp--I become +a Householder--Arrangement of our Establishment--My "Baby"--An +African Elysium--No Pipe!--The Elements at Work. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT. + +Go into Half Mourning--"Child of the Fever"--The Arab M.D.--Arab +Fondness for Relics--The Pest Spots of the World--The Dangers of +Holy Shrines--Arrival of the Holy Body--The Faky's Grave--Arab +Doctoring--Delights of Arab Surgery--The Pig and the +Koran--Sword Hunters of the Hamran Arabs--The Arab Shields--Hints +for carrying the Sword--Keenness of the Edge--Arab +Swordsmanship--The Aggageers--Elephant-hunting with the +Sword--Arab disabled by his own Sword--Maria Theresa--Great +Failure--The Baboons and the Crocodile--The drowned +Elephant--Game on the East Bank--Capabilities of the +Soil--Tanning of Leather--Native Baskets and Matting--Bacheet is +too attentive--"Oh Bacheet! you Ignoramus!"--Ferocity of the +Seroot Fly--Cross the Atbara--The Impromptu Raft--Stalking +Giraffes--Within Range--The First Rush of the Herd--The Retreat +of the Giraffes--Death of the Giraffes--Passage of the River-- +The Giraffe Sentry--A difficult Stalk--The Seroot Fly takes +possession--Giraffe Steaks--A Hunt for the Tetel--Floating Meat +across a River--Buoy for Men and Cargo--Scare the +Crocodiles--The Lions devour the Giraffe--Arab Music--Arrange to +cross the River. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FORM A RAFT WITH THE SPONGING BATH. + +The Impromptu Ferry--Achmet is tempted by Satan--Mahomet's +Relative absconds--End of the Rainy Season--The Seroot Fly +disappears--The "Till"--Preparations for Fishing--"That was a +Monster!"--The "Bayard"--Masara the Slave--Cross the Peninsula to +Settite--Jungle Cooking--A miserable Night--Shoot badly--Fishing +in the Atbara--A good Run--Another Monster--Bacheet lands +him--The Baboons visit us--The Coor--Wild Vegetables--Death of +Atalan Wat Said--Catch a Baggar--Fish-salting--The Arbour. + + +CHAPTER X. + +A FEW NOTES AT EHETILLA. + +Fire the Valley--Arrival of Birds--Seized by a +Crocodile--Audacity of the Buzzard--The Abomination of +Thorns--Boa Constrictor--The Baboons hunt for Berries--Masses of +small Birds--Cunning of the Crocodile--Method of seizing its +Prey--Horse-dealing--Arab Saddles and Bits--Arrive at Sherif el +Ibrahim--Arrival at the Settite--Recall of Mahomet--Sheik Achmet +Wat el Negur--Mansfield Parkyns--Advantages of a "Sweet Name"-- +Elephants destroy the Crops--An Invitation to shoot--The Hippo +challenges Bacheet--A good Shot--A Rush at the Carcase--Elephants +at Night--Kill an Elephant. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE FORD. + +Girls carried away by the Rapids--An amphibious Arab Girl--Search +for the drowned Girl--The Corpse recovered--The Sheik lays down +the Law--"The Fact is simply impossible"--The Sheik's Idea of +Matrimony--The Duties of his Four Wives--The Maimed, the Halt, +and the Blind--The Arab Fakeers or Priests--"All the Same with a +little Difference"--The Cure for Frendeet--Arrival at +Katariff--The Market Day--Scenes at the Fair--Custom of +scarifying the Cheeks--The Galla Slave--Purchase her Freedom +--Singular Misunderstanding--Mahomet's Explanation--Mek Nimmur +invades the Frontier--Mek Nimmur's Tactics--Insecurity of the +Country--Mek Nimmur sends me his Compliments--Roder Sheriff's +withered Arm--The Aggageers--Mixture for Bullets--We make +Arrowroot--Florian's Hunter--Arrive at Geera--Follow a Herd of +Elephants--Track up the Elephants--A tremendous Crash--A +critical Position--The Forehead Shot--The Half-pound Explosive +Shell--Recover my old wounded Elephant--Fraternize with the +Sword Hunters. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +OLD NEPTUNE JOINS THE PARTY. + +The Arab Centaurs--Wild Arab Horsemanship--Discipline of the +Gun-bearers--Off goes the Gun, and its Master!--Ombrega (Mother +of the Thorn)--Leopard Springs into the Camp--The Dog carried +off--The Bull Elephant--The Forehead Shot fails--The Mountain +Chain of Abyssinia--A Hunt after a Herd of Baboons--The +Prisoners--A Course after a Tetel--The Cry of Buffaloes--We hunt +and capture--The Baboons take leave--The Valley of the +Settite--The Bull Buffalo--The Island Camp--Mahomet hears the +Lions--Tales of the Base. + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +THE LIONS FIND THE BUFFALO. + +We seek an Introduction--The Start of the Sword Hunters--The Bull +Elephant--The "Baby" screams at him--The Fight, Sword in +Hand--Abou Do's Blade tastes Blood--We find the Herd--Jali leads +the Party--The Forehead Shot fairly proved--The Charge of the +Phalanx--My "Baby" kicks viciously--Abou Do slashes the +Sinew--The Boar wounds Richarn--Old Moosa, the Sorcerer--Neptune +and his Trident--The Beauty of the Settite--Borders of the +River--The Hippopotamus Hunter--The Hippo is harpooned--A Cheer +for Old Neptune--Death of the Hippopotamus--Character of +Hippopotami--Habits of the Hippopotamus--Its Activity. + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A FOREBODING OF EVIL. + +Jali's Thigh is broken--Abou Do saves Jali--Extraordinary +Dexterity--Jungle Surgery--We lose our best Man--My Tokrooris +determine to desert--A little Diplomacy is required--The Sick are +dosed--"Embrace him!" cried old Moosa--We become staunch +Friends--Abou Do's Weaknesses--The Baobab--The Crop of Gum +Arabic--The Rhinoceros--Now for a "Tally Ho!"--The Hunt--Close to +their Tails--"A Horse! a Horse! my Kingdom for a Horse!"--The +last Moment--Difficulty of Hunting--Power of Scent--Horns of the +Rhinoceros--Peculiarity of the Rhinoceros--Rhinoceros Snare-- +Barrake poisons herself--Attractive Food for Elephants--Florian +killed by a Lion--Gloomy Prediction. + + +CHAPTER XV. + +ANTELOPES ON THE SETTITE. + +The Camp at Delladila--Trionis Nilotica--Fish linked to +Reptiles--Scenes on the River's Margin--The Nellut (A. +Strepsiceros)--Swimming Rivers with a Horse--The Lion--The Lion +Hunt--The Escape--The Bull Buffalo--Death of the Bull--The +Arabs' Tit-bit--The Arab Plan for making Fire--The Mehedehet +Antelope--Sauve qui peut!--Nearly caught--Fire clears the +Country--Discretion the better Part of Valour--The Camp in +Danger--Nearly burnt out--Crocodile harpooning--The ugly little +Statue--Harpooning the Hippopotamus--The Harpoon fixed--The Hippo +determines to fight--The Lances are blunted--Hor +Mehetape--Geological Features--Unpleasant Report of the Spies. + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +ABOU DO IS GREEDY. + +Departure of the Aggageers--Game returning from the River--A Bull +Rhinoceros--We stalk the Rhinoceros--The Death--The Aggageers +poach upon my Manor--Their Prize dies--Taher Noor faces the +Lion--We start fresh Game--A curious Shot--Bait for the +Lions--Highly exciting--My Tokrooris don't like the Lion--The +dying Lioness--Brought into Camp--Difficulty in tracking the +Lions--The Lion visits our Camp--Vis a vis with a Lion--A +Surprise--Tetel faces the wounded Lion--Wonderful Courage of the +Horse--Lions' Claws worn as a Charm--We commence Soap-boiling-- +Savon a la Bete feroce--We bury poor Barrake. + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +WE REACH THE ROYAN. + +Hor Mai Gubba--The Francolin Partridge--We watch for Game--Out +with the Aggageers--The Banks of the Royan--We find a Bull +Elephant--Helter- skelter--The Elephant at Bay--Roder with the +withered Arm--The Sword wins the Day--The nimble Base dine +cheaply--The great Whirlpool--The Royan Junction with the +Settite--A Bull Rhinoceros--Bacheet has to run--Visit to Mek +Nimmur--Our Arabs decline to proceed--Obliged to threaten the +Camels--The Troop on a Foray--Narrow Escape--The Rifle bursts--We +march from the Settite--Interesting Route--Mineral Wealth of +Abyssinia--Present to Mek Nimmur--The Abyssinian +Minstrel--Richard Coeur de Lion--I part with my dear Maria +Theresa--The Ghost of the departed Fiddler--The "Lay of the Last +Minstrel"--My Introduction to Mek Nimmur--The Reception--The +poisonous Stream--Unfortunate Contretemps--Nimmur behaves like a +Gentleman--Pharaoh's lean Kine. + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +A CAMEL FALLS, AND DIES. + +Arabs consume the Raw Flesh--Arrival at the Bahr +Salaam--Character of the Torrents--The Junction of the +Angrab--Good Sport--Four lucky Hits--A Fall over a Cliff--We +save the Camel--Narrow Escape--The Hyaena enters the +Tent--Hippotragus Bakerii--The Base of the Abyssinian Alps-- +Delightful Country--Follow a Herd of Elephants--Aggahr takes the +Lead--Fall at the Feet of Elephants--Benighted on our Return to +Camp--"All's well that ends well". + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +SEND A PARTY TO RECONNOITRE. + +Ahead of the Camels--The Maarif--View from the Peak--The +Rhinoceros attacks the Horse--The Bullet saves him--Arrival of +the Horses--The Rhinoceros Hunt--Ridden to bay--Arrival of Birds +of Prey--Habits of Vultures--The Marabou Stork--Sight, not Scent, +directs the Vulture--Abou Seen--"Last but not least"--Route to +Nahoot Guddabi--Arrive at the Atbara--Last View of the +Atbara--The Atbara Exploration completed. + + +CHAPTER XX. + +ARRIVAL AT METEMMA, OR GALLABAT. + +Poisonous Water--The Trade of Abyssinia--We encounter +Missionaries--The theological Blacksmith--The Missionaries' +Medicine-Chest--Jemma, Sheik of the Tokrooris--The Egyptians' +attack upon Gallabat--Settlement of the Tokrooris--Industry of +the Tokrooris--Weapons, Type, and Character--The Colonization by +Tokrooris--Honey Wine of Abyssinia--All drunk last +Night--Distance from an Act of Parliament--We leave Gallabat--A +Row with the Tokrooris--I settle the Tokroori Champion--A real +flat-nosed African Nigger--Death of Aggahr and Gazelle--Forced +March to the Rahad--The River Rahad. + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY ON THE BANKS OF THE RAHAD. + +Journey along the Rahad--Rich Country--We cross over to the +Dinder--Ferocity of Crocodiles in that River--Character of the +Dinder--Activity of the African Elephant--Distinction of +Species--Peculiarity of Form--African and Indian +Elephants--Destruction of Forests--Elephant's Foot a +Luxury--Preservation of Flesh and Fat for the March--Preparation +of Bread for a Journey--The Bos Caffer--The most formidable +Animals--Rifles for wild Countries--Sundry Hints--Bullets for +large Game--Antelopes of Central Africa and Abyssinia. + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +WE LEAVE THE DINDER. + +Curious Hunting Party--Character of Abyssinian Rivers--Borassus +AEthiopicus--Rufaar and the Arab Sheik--The Blue Nile--The very +gentlemanly Faky--Regularly "sold"--Arrival at Khartoum--The +British Lion--The Zoological Collection--The Ostriches invite +themselves to Tea--I intercede for Mek Nimmur--King Theodore's +Ultimatum--Climate of the Soudan--The Sageer or +Water-wheel--Uncontrolled Action of the Nile--Suggestions for the +Irrigation of Egypt--Why should not Science create a Delta?--A +Series of Weirs upon the Nile--The Benefits to Egypt and to +Civilization--Ancient Works of Irrigation in Ceylon--Industrious +Population of Egypt--Capabilities for producing Cotton--The Great +Sahara--The Race of Life--Prepare to discover the White Nile +Source. + + + + +THE NILE TRIBUTARIES OF ABYSSINIA, AND THE +SWORD HUNTERS OF THE HAMRAN ARABS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +ABOVE THE CATARACT. + +WITHOUT troubling the public with a description of that portion +of the Nile to the north of the first cataract, or with a +detailed account of the Egyptian ruins, that have been visited by +a thousand tourists, I will commence by a few extracts from my +journal, written at the close of the boat voyage from Cairo :-- + +"May 8, 1861.--No air. The thermometer 104 degrees Fahr.; a +stifling heat. Becalmed, we have been lying the entire day below +the ruins of Philae. These are the most imposing monuments of the +Nile, owing to their peculiar situation upon a rocky island that +commands the passage of the river above the cataract. The banks +of the stream are here hemmed in by ranges of hills from 100 to +250 feet high; these are entirely destitute of soil, being +composed of enormous masses of red granite, piled block upon +block, the rude masonry of Nature that has walled in the river. +The hollows between the hills are choked with a yellow sand, +which, drifted by the wind, has, in many instances, completely +filled the narrow valleys. Upon either side of the Nile are +vestiges of ancient forts. The land appears as though it bore the +curse of Heaven; misery, barrenness, and the heat of a furnace +are its features. The glowing rocks, devoid of a trace of +vegetation, reflect the sun with an intensity that must be felt +to be understood. The miserable people who dwell in villages upon +the river's banks snatch every sandbank from the retiring stream, +and immediately plant their scanty garden with melons, gourds, +lentils, &c. this being their only resource for cultivation. Not +an inch of available soil is lost; but day by day, as the river +decreases, fresh rows of vegetables are sown upon the +newly-acquired land. At Assouan, the sandbanks are purely sand +brought down by the cataracts, therefore soil must be added to +enable the people to cultivate. They dig earth from the ruins of +the ancient town; this they boat across the river and spread upon +the sandbank, by which excessive labour they secure sufficient +mould to support their crops. + +In the vicinity of Philae the very barrenness of the scenery +possesses a charm. The iron-like sterility of the granite rocks, +naked except in spots where the wind has sheeted them with sand; +the groves of palms springing unexpectedly into view in this +desert wilderness, as a sudden bend of the river discovers a +village; the ever blue and never clouded sky above, and, the only +blessing of this blighted land, the Nile, silently flowing +between its stern walls of rocks towards the distant land of +Lower Egypt, form a total that produces a scene to be met with +nowhere but upon the Nile. In this miserable spot the unfortunate +inhabitants are taxed equally with those of the richer +districts--about fivepence annually for each date palm. + +"May 9.--A good breeze, but tremendous heat. Although the floor +and the curtains of the cabin are continually wetted, and the +Venetian blinds are closed, the thermometer, at 4 P.M., stood at +105 degrees in the shade; and upon deck, 137 degrees in the sun. +This day we passed the ruins of several small temples. The +country is generally rocky, with intervals of ten or twelve miles +of desert plains. + +"May 10.--Fine breeze, the boat sailing well. Passed several +small temples. The henna grows in considerable quantities on the +left bank of the river. The leaf resembles that of the myrtle; +the blossom has a powerful fragrance; it grows like a feather, +about eighteen inches long, forming a cluster of small yellow +flowers. The day pleasantly cool; thermometer, 95 degrees. + +"May 11.--At 5 A.M. we arrived at Korosko; lat. 22 degrees 50 +minutes N.; the halting-place for all vessels from Lower Egypt +with merchandise for the Soudan." + +At this wretched spot the Nile is dreary beyond description, as +a vast desert, unenlivened by cultivation, forms its borders, +through which the melancholy river rolls towards Lower Egypt in +the cloudless glare of a tropical sun. From whence came this +extraordinary stream that could flow through these burning sandy +deserts, unaided by tributary channels? That was the mysterious +question as we stepped upon the shore now, to commence our land +journey in search of the distant sources. We climbed the steep +sandy bank, and sat down beneath a solitary sycamore. + +We had been twenty-six days sailing from Cairo to this point. The +boat returned, and left us on the east bank of the Nile, with the +great Nubian desert before us. + +Korosko is not rich in supplies. A few miserable Arab huts, with +the usual fringe of dusty date palms, compose the village; the +muddy river is the frontier on the west, the burning desert on +the east. Thus hemmed in, Korosko is a narrow strip of a few +yards' width on the margin of the Nile, with only one redeeming +feature in its wretchedness--the green shade of the old sycamore +beneath which we sat. + +I had a firman from the Viceroy, a cook, and a dragoman. Thus my +impedimenta were not numerous. The firman was an order to all +Egyptian officials for assistance; the cook was dirty and +incapable; and the interpreter was nearly ignorant of English, +although a professed polyglot. With this small beginning, Africa +was before me, and thus I commenced the search for the Nile +sources. Absurd as this may appear, it was a correct +commencement. Ignorant of Arabic, I could not have commanded a +large party, who would have been at the mercy of the interpreter +or dragoman; thus, the first qualification necessary to success +was a knowledge of the language. + +After a delay of some days, I obtained sixteen camels from the +sheik. I had taken the precaution to provide water-barrels, in +addition to the usual goat-skins; and, with a trustworthy guide, +we quitted Korosko on the 16th May, 1861, and launched into the +desert. + +The route from Korosko across the Nubian desert cuts off the +chord of an arc made by the great westerly bend of the Nile. This +chord is about 230 miles in length. Throughout this barren desert +there is no water, except at the half-way station, Moorahd (from +moorra, bitter); this, although salt and bitter, is relished by +camels. During the hot season in which we unfortunately +travelled, the heat was intense, the thermometer ranging from 106 +degrees to 114 degrees Fahr. in the shade. The parching blast of +the simoom was of such exhausting power, that the water rapidly +evaporated from the closed water-skins. It was, therefore, +necessary to save the supply by a forced march of seven days, in +which period we were to accomplish the distance, and to reach +Abou Hammed, on the southern bend of the welcome Nile. + +During the cool months, from November until February, the desert +journey is not disagreeable; but the vast area of glowing sand +exposed to the scorching sun of summer, in addition to the +withering breath of the simoom, renders the forced march of 230 +miles in seven days, at two and a half miles per hour, the most +fatiguing journey that can be endured. + +Farewell to the Nile! We turned our backs upon the life-giving +river, and our caravan commenced the silent desert march. + +A few hours from Korosko the misery of the scene surpassed +description. Glowing like a furnace, the vast extent of yellow +sand stretched to the horizon. Rows of broken hills, all of +volcanic origin, broke the flat plain. Conical tumuli of volcanic +slag here and there rose to the height of several hundred feet, +and in the far distance resembled the Pyramids of Lower +Egypt--doubtless they were the models for that ancient and +everlasting architecture; hills of black basalt jutted out from +the barren base of sand, and the molten air quivered on the +overheated surface of the fearful desert. 114 degrees Fahr. in +the shade under the water-skins; 137 degrees in the sun. +Noiselessly the spongy tread of the camels crept along the +sand--the only sound was the rattle of some loosely secured +baggage of their packs. The Arab camel-drivers followed silently +at intervals, and hour by hour we struck deeper into the solitude +of the Nubian desert. + +We entered a dead level plain of orange-coloured sand, surrounded +by pyramidical hills: the surface was strewn with objects +resembling cannon shot and grape of all sizes from a 32-pounder +downwards--the spot looked like the old battle-field of some +infernal region; rocks glowing with heat--not a vestige of +vegetation--barren, withering desolation.--The slow rocking step +of the camels was most irksome, and despite the heat, I +dismounted to examine the Satanic bombs and cannon shot. Many of +them were as perfectly round as though cast in a mould, others +were egg-shaped, and all were hollow. With some difficulty I +broke them, and found them to contain a bright red sand: they +were, in fact, volcanic bombs that had been formed by the +ejection of molten lava to a great height from active volcanoes; +these had become globular in falling, and, having cooled before +they reached the earth, they retained their forms as hard +spherical bodies, precisely resembling cannon shot. The exterior +was brown, and appeared to be rich in iron. The smaller specimens +were the more perfect spheres, as they cooled quickly, but many +of the heavier masses had evidently reached the earth when only +half solidified, and had collapsed upon falling. The sandy plain +was covered with such vestiges of volcanic action, and the +infernal bombs lay as imperishable relics of a hail-storm such as +may have destroyed Sodom and Gomorrah. + +Passing through this wretched solitude we entered upon a scene of +surpassing desolation. Far as the eye could reach were waves like +a stormy sea, grey, cold-looking waves in the burning heat; but +no drop of water: it appeared as though a sudden curse had turned +a raging sea to stone. The simoom blew over this horrible +wilderness, and drifted the hot sand into the crevices of the +rocks, and the camels drooped their heads before the suffocating +wind; but still the caravan noiselessly crept along over the +rocky undulations, until the stormy sea was passed: once more we +were upon a boundless plain of sand and pebbles. + +Here every now and then we discovered withered melons (Cucumis +colocynthis); the leaves had long since disappeared, and the +shrivelled stalks were brittle as glass. They proved that even +the desert had a season of life, however short; but the desert +fruits were bitter. So intensely bitter was the dry white +interior of these melons, that it exactly resembled quinine in +taste; when rubbed between the fingers, it became a fine white +powder. The Arabs use this medicinally; a small piece placed in +a cup of milk, and allowed to stand for a few hours, renders the +draught a strong aperient. The sun--that relentless persecutor of +the desert traveller--sank behind the western hills, and the long +wished for night arrived; cool, delicious night! the thermometer +78 degrees Fahr. a difference of 36 degrees between the shade of +day. + +The guide commanded the caravan,--he was the desert pilot, and no +one dared question his directions; he ordered a halt for TWO +HOURS' rest. This was the usual stage and halting-place by the +side of a perpendicular rock, the base of which was strewn thick +with camel's dung; this excellent fuel soon produced a blazing +fire, the coffee began to boil, and fowls were roasting for a +hasty dinner. A short snatch of sleep upon the sand, and the +voice of the guide again disturbed us. The camels had not been +unloaded, but had lain down to rest with their packs, and had +thus eaten their feed of dhurra (Sorghum vulgare) from a mat. In +a few minutes we started, once more the silent and monotonous +desert march. + +In the cool night I preferred walking to the uneasy motion of the +camel; the air was most invigorating after the intense heat of +the day and the prostration caused by the simoom. The desert had +a charm by night, as the horizon of its nakedness was limited; +the rocks assumed fantastic shapes in the bright moonlight, and +the profound stillness produced an effect of the supernatural in +that wild and mysterious solitude; the Arab belief in the genii +and afreet, and all the demon enemies of man, was a natural +consequence of a wandering life in this desert wilderness, where +nature is hostile to all living beings. + +In forty-six hours and forty-five minutes' actual marching from +Korosko we reached Moorahd, "the bitter well." + +This is a mournful spot, well known to the tired and thirsty +camel, the hope of reaching which has urged him fainting on his +weary way to drink one draught before he dies: this is the +camel's grave. Situated half way between Korosko and Abou Hammed, +the well of Moorahd is in an extinct crater, surrounded upon all +sides but one by precipitous cliffs about 300 feet high. The +bottom is a dead flat, and forms a valley of sand about 250 yards +wide. In this bosom of a crater, salt and bitter water is found +at a depth of only six feet from the surface. To this our tired +camels frantically rushed upon being unloaded. + +The valley was a "valley of dry bones." Innumerable skeletons of +camels lay in all directions; the ships of the desert thus +stranded on their voyage. Withered heaps of parched skin and bone +lay here and there, in the distinct forms in which the camels had +gasped their last; the dry desert air had converted the hide into +a coffin. There were no flies here, thus there were no worms to +devour the carcases; but the usual sextons were the crows, +although sometimes too few to perform their office. These were +perched upon the overhanging cliffs; but no sooner had our +overworked camels taken their long draught and lain down +exhausted on the sand, than by common consent they descended from +their high places, and walked round and round each tired beast. + +As many wretched animals simply crawl to this spot to die, the +crows, from long experience and constant practice, can form a +pretty correct diagnosis upon the case of a sick camel; they had +evidently paid a professional visit to my caravan, and were +especially attentive in studying the case of one particular camel +that was in a very weakly condition and had stretched itself full +length upon the sand; nor would they leave it until it was driven +forward. + +The heat of Moorahd was terrific; there was no shade of any kind, +and the narrow valley surrounded by glowing rocks formed a +natural oven. The intense dryness of the overheated atmosphere +was such, that many of our water-skins that appeared full were +nearly empty; the precious supply had evaporated through the +porous leather, and the skins were simply distended by the +expanded air within. Fortunately I had taken about 108 gallons +from Korosko, and I possessed a grand reserve in my two barrels +which could not waste; these were invaluable as a resource when +the supply in the skins should be exhausted. My Arab camel-men +were supposed to be provided with their own private supply; but, +as they had calculated upon stealing from my stock, in which they +were disappointed, they were on exceedingly short allowance, and +were suffering much from thirst. During our forced march of three +days and a half it had been impossible to perform the usual +toilette, therefore, as water was life, washing had been out of +the question. Moorahd had been looked forward to as the spot of +six hours' rest, where we could indulge in the luxury of a bath +on a limited scale after the heat and fatigue of the journey. +Accordingly, about two quarts of water were measured into a large +Turkish copper basin; the tent, although the heat was +unendurable, was the only dressing-room, and the two quarts of +water, with a due proportion of soap, having washed two people, +was about to be thrown away, when the Arab guide, who had been +waiting his opportunity, snatched the basin from the servant, and +in the agony of thirst drank nearly the whole of its contents, +handing the residue to a brother Arab, with the hearty +ejaculation, "El hambd el Illah!" (Thank God!) + +My wife was seriously ill from the fatigue and intense heat, but +there can be no halt in the desert; dead or alive, with the +caravan you must travel, as the party depends upon the supply of +water. A few extracts verbatim from my journal will describe the +journey:-- + +"May 2O.--Started at 12.30 P.M. and halted at 6.30. Off again at +7.30 P.M. till 2.45 A.M. About four miles from Moorahd, grey +granite takes the place of the volcanic slag and schist that +formed the rocks to that point. The desert is now a vast plain, +bounded by a range of rugged hills on the south. On the north +side of Moorahd, at a distance of above eight miles, slate is met +with; this continues for about three miles of the route, but it +is of impure quality, with the exception of one vein, of a +beautiful blue colour. A few miserable stunted thorny mimosas are +here to be seen scattered irregularly, as though lost in this +horrible desert." + +Many years ago, when the Egyptian troops first conquered Nubia, +a regiment was destroyed by thirst in crossing this desert. The +men, being upon a limited allowance of water, suffered from +extreme thirst, and deceived by the appearance of a mirage that +exactly resembled a beautiful lake, they insisted on being taken +to its banks by the Arab guide. It was in vain that the guide +assured them that the lake was unreal, and he refused to lose the +precious time by wandering from his course. Words led to blows, +and he was killed by the soldiers, whose lives depended upon his +guidance. The whole regiment turned from the track and rushed +towards the welcome waters. Thirsty and faint, over the burning +sands they hurried; heavier and heavier their footsteps +became--hotter and hotter their breath, as deeper they pushed +into the desert--farther and farther from the lost track where +the pilot lay in his blood; and still the mocking spirits of the +desert, the afreets of the mirage, led them on, and the lake +glistening in the sunshine tempted them to bathe in its cool +waters, close to their eyes, but never at their lips. At length +the delusion vanished--the fatal lake had turned to burning sand! +Raging thirst and horrible despair! the pathless desert and the +murdered guide! lost! lost! all lost! Not a man ever left the +desert, but they were subsequently discovered, parched and +withered corpses, by the Arabs sent upon the search. + +"May 21.--Started at 5.45 A.M. till 8.45; again, at 1.45 P.M. +till 7 P.M.; again, at 9.30 P.M. till 4 A.M. Saw two gazelles, +the first living creatures, except the crows at Moorahd, that we +have seen since we left Korosko; there must be a supply of water +in the mountains known only to these animals. Thermometer, 111 +degrees Fahr. in the shade; at night, 78 degrees. The water in +the leather bottle that I repaired is deliciously cool. N.B.--In +sewing leather bottles or skins for holding water, no thread +should be used, but a leathern thong, which should be dry; it +will then swell when wetted, and the seam will be watertight. + +"May 22.--Started at 5.30 A.M. till 9.30; again, at 2.15 P.M. +till 7.15 P.M. Rested to dine, and started again at 8.30 P.M. +till 4.25 A.M.; reaching Abou Hammed, thank heaven! + +"Yesterday evening we passed through a second chain of rugged +hills of grey granite, about 600 feet high, and descended through +a pass to an extensive plain, in which rose abruptly, like huge +pyramids, four granite hills, at great distances apart. So +exactly do they resemble artificial pyramids at a distance, that +it is difficult to believe they are natural objects. I feel +persuaded that the ancient Egyptians took their designs for +monuments and buildings from the hills themselves, and raised in +the plains of Lower Egypt artificial pyramids in imitation of the +granite hills of this form. Their temples were in form like many +of the granite ranges, and were thoroughly encased with stone. +The extraordinary massiveness of these works suggests that Nature +assisted the design; the stone columns are imitations of the date +palms, and the buildings are copies of the rocky hills--the two +common features of Egyptian scenery. + +"Throughout the route from Korosko, the skeletons of camels +number about eight per mile, with the exception of the last march +on either side of the watering-place Moorahd, on which there are +double that number, as the animals have become exhausted as they +approach the well. In the steep pass through the hills, where the +heat is intense, and the sand deep, the mortality is dreadful; in +some places I counted six and eight in a heap; and this difficult +portion of the route is a mass of bones, as every weak animal +gives in at the trying place. + +"So dreadful a desert is this between Korosko and Abou Hammed, +that Said Pasha ordered the route to be closed; but it was +re-opened upon the application of foreign consuls, as the most +direct road to the Soudan. Our Bishareen Arabs are first-rate +walkers, as they have performed the entire journey on foot. Their +water and provisions were all exhausted yesterday, but +fortunately I had guarded the key of my two water-casks; thus I +had a supply when every water-skin was empty, and on the last day +I divided my sacred stock amongst the men, and the still more +thirsty camels. In the hot months, a camel cannot march longer +than three days without drinking, unless at the cost of great +suffering. + +"Having arrived here (Abou Hammed) at 4.25 this morning, 23d May, +I had the luxury of a bath. The very sight of the Nile was +delightful, after the parched desolation of the last seven days. +The small village is utterly destitute of everything, and the +sterile desert extends to the very margin of the Nile. The +journey having occupied ninety-two hours of actual marching +across the desert, gives 230 miles as the distance from Korosko, +at the loaded-camel rate of two and a half miles per hour. The +average duration of daily march has been upwards of thirteen +hours, including a day's halt at Moorahd. My camels have arrived +in tolerable condition, as their loads did not exceed 400 lbs. +each; the usual load is 500 lbs. + +"May 24.--Rested both men and beasts. A caravan of about thirty +camels arrived, having lost three during the route. + +"May 25.--Started at 5 A.M. The route is along the margin of the +Nile, to which the desert extends. A fringe of stunted bushes, +and groves of the coarse and inelegant dome palm, mark the banks +of the river by a thicket of about half a mile in width. I saw +many gazelles, and succeeded in stalking a fine buck, and killing +him with a rifle. + +"May 26.--Marched ten hours. Saw gazelles, but so wild that it +was impossible to shoot. Thermometer 110 degrees Fahr. + +"May 27.--Marched four hours and forty-five minutes, when we were +obliged to halt, as F. is very ill. In the evening I shot two +gazelles, which kept the party in meat. + +"May 28.--Marched fifteen hours, to make up for the delay of +yesterday. Shot a buck on the route. + +"May 29.--The march of yesterday cut off an angle of the river, +and we made a straight course through the desert, avoiding a bend +of the stream. At 7.30 this morning we met the Nile again; the +same character of country as before, the river full of rocks, and +forming a succession of rapids the entire distance from Abou +Hammed. Navigation at this season is impossible, and is most +dangerous even at flood-time. The simoom is fearful, and the heat +is so intense that it was impossible to draw the gun-cases out of +their leather covers, which it was necessary to cut open. All +woodwork is warped; ivory knife-handles are split; paper breaks +when crunched in the hand, and the very marrow seems to be dried +out of the bones by this horrible simoom. One of our camels fell +down to die. Shot two buck gazelles; I saw many, but they are +very wild. + +"May 3O.--The extreme dryness of the air induces an extraordinary +amount of electricity in the hair, and in all woollen materials. +A Scotch plaid laid upon a blanket for a few hours adheres to it, +and upon being roughly withdrawn at night a sheet of flame is +produced, accompanied by tolerably loud reports. + +"May 31.--After an early march of three hours and twenty minutes, +we arrived at the town of Berber, on the Nile, at 9.35 A.M. We +have been fifty-seven hours and five minutes actually marching +from Abou Hammed, which, at two and a half miles per hour, equals +143 miles. We have thus marched 373 miles from Korosko to Berber +in fifteen days; the entire route is the monotonous Nubian +desert. Our camels have averaged twenty-five miles per day, with +loads of 400 lbs. at a cost of ninety piastres (about 19s.) each, +for the whole distance. This rate, with the addition of the +guide's expenses, equals about 5s. 6d. per 100 lbs. for carriage +throughout 373 miles of burning desert. Although this frightful +country appears to be cut off from all communication with the +world, the extremely low rate of transport charges affords great +facility for commerce."* + + * Since that date, 31st May, 1861, the epidemic or cattle + plague carried off an immense number of camels, and the + charges of transport rose in 1864 and 1865 to a rate that + completely paralysed the trade of Upper Egypt. + +Berber is a large town, and in appearance is similar to the Nile +towns of Lower Egypt, consisting of the usual dusty, unpaved +streets, and flat-roofed houses of sun-baked bricks. It is the +seat of a Governor, or Mudir, and is generally the quarters for +about 1,500 troops. We were very kindly received by Halleem +Effendi, the ex-Governor, who at once gave us permission to pitch +the tents in his garden, close to the Nile, on the southern +outskirt of the town. After fifteen days of desert marching, the +sight of a well-cultivated garden was an Eden in our eyes. About +eight acres of land, on the margin of the river, were thickly +planted with lofty date groves, and shady citron and lemon trees, +beneath which we revelled in luxury on our Persian rugs, and +enjoyed complete rest after the fatigue of our long journey. +Countless birds were chirping and singing in the trees above us; +innumerable ring-doves were cooing in the shady palms; and the +sudden change from the dead sterility of the desert to the scene +of verdure and of life, produced an extraordinary effect upon the +spirits. What caused this curious transition? Why should this +charming oasis, teeming with vegetation and with life, be found +in the yellow, sandy desert? . . . Water had worked this change; +the spirit of the Nile, more potent than any genii of the Arabian +fables, had transformed the desert into a fruitful garden. +Halleem Effendi, the former Governor, had, many years ago, +planted this garden, irrigated by numerous water-wheels; and we +now enjoyed the fruits, and thanked Heaven for its greatest +blessings in that burning land, shade and cool water. + +The tents were soon arranged, the camels were paid for and +discharged, and in the cool of the evening we were visited by the +Governor and suite. + +The firman having been officially presented by the dragoman upon +our arrival in the morning, the Governor had called with much +civility to inquire into our projects and to offer assistance. We +were shortly seated on carpets outside the tent, and after pipes +and coffee, and the usual preliminary compliments, my dragoman +explained, that the main object of our journey was to search for +the sources of the Nile, or, as he described it, "the head of the +river." + +Both the Governor and Halleem Effendi, with many officers who had +accompanied them, were Turks; but, in spite of the gravity and +solidity for which the Turk is renowned, their faces relaxed into +a variety of expressions at this (to them) absurd announcement. +"The head of the Nile!" they exclaimed, "impossible!" "Do they +know where it is?" inquired the Governor, of the dragoman; and +upon an explanation being given, that, as we did not know where +it was, we had proposed to discover it, the Turks merely shook +their heads, sipped their coffee, and took extra whiffs at their +long pipes, until at length the white- haired old Halleem Effendi +spoke. He gave good and parental advice, as follows:-- + +"Don't go upon so absurd an errand; nobody knows anything about +the Nile, neither will any one discover its source. We do not +even know the source of the Atbara; how should we know the source +of the great Nile. A great portion of the Atbara flows through +the Pasha of Egypt's dominions; the firman in your possession +with his signature, will insure you respect, so long as you +remain within his territory; but if you cross his frontier, you +will be in the hands of savages. The White Nile is the country of +the negroes; wild, ferocious races who have neither knowledge of +God nor respect for the Pasha, and you must travel with a +powerful armed force; the climate is deadly; how could you +penetrate such a region to search for what is useless even should +you attain it? But how would it be possible for a lady, young and +delicate, to endure what would kill the strongest man? Travel +along the Atbara river into the Taka country, there is much to be +seen that is unexplored; but give up the mad scheme of the Nile +source." + +There was some sense in old Halleem Effendi's advice; it was the +cool and cautious wisdom of old age, but as I was not so elderly, +I took it "cum grano salis." He was a charming old gentleman, the +perfect beau ideal of the true old style of Turk, but few +specimens of which remain; all that he had said was spoken in +sincerity, and I resolved to collect as much information as +possible from the grey-headed authorities before I should +commence the expedition. I was deeply impressed with one fact, +that until I could dispense with an interpreter it would be +impossible to succeed, therefore I determined to learn Arabic as +speedily as possible. + +A week's rest in the garden of Halleem Effendi prepared us for +the journey. I resolved to explore the Atbara river and the +Abyssinian affluents, prior to commencing the White Nile voyage. +The Governor promised me two Turkish soldiers as attendants, and +I arranged to send my heavy baggage by boat to Khartoum, and +secure the advantage of travelling light; a comfort that no one +can appreciate who has not felt the daily delay in loading a long +string of camels. Both my wife and I had suffered from a short +attack of fever brought on by the prostrating effect of the +simoom, which at this season (June) was at its height. The Nile +was slowly rising, although it was still low; occasionally it +fell about eighteen inches in one night, but again rose; this +proved that, although the rains had commenced, they were not +constant, as the steady and rapid increase of the river had not +taken place. The authorities assured me that the Blue Nile was +now rising at Khartoum, which accounted for the increase of the +river at Berber. + +The garden of Halleem Effendi was attended by a number of fine +powerful slaves from the White Nile, whose stout frames and +glossy skins were undeniable witnesses of their master's care. A +charmingly pretty slave girl paid us daily visits, with presents +of fruit from her kind master and numerous mistresses, who, with +the usual Turkish compliments as a preliminary message, requested +permission to visit the English lady. + +In the cool hour of evening a bevy of ladies approached through +the dark groves of citron trees, so gaily dressed in silks of the +brightest dyes of yellow, blue, and scarlet, that no bouquet of +flowers could have been more gaudy. They were attended by +numerous slaves, and the head servant politely requested me to +withdraw during the interview. Thus turned out of my tent, I was +compelled to patience and solitude beneath a neighbouring date +palm. + +The result of the interview with my wife was most satisfactory; +the usual womanish questions had been replied to, and hosts of +compliments exchanged. We were then rich in all kinds of European +trifles that excited their curiosity, and a few little presents +established so great an amount of confidence that they gave the +individual history of each member of the family from childhood, +that would have filled a column of the Times with births, deaths, +and marriages. + +Some of these ladies were very young and pretty, and of course +exercised a certain influence over their husbands; thus, on the +following morning, we were inundated with visitors, as the male +members of the family came to thank us for the manner in which +their ladies had been received; and fruit, flowers, and the +general produce of the garden were presented to us in profusion. +However pleasant, there were drawbacks to our garden of Eden; +there was dust in our Paradise; not the dust that we see in +Europe upon unwatered roads, that simply fills the eyes, but +sudden clouds raised by whirlwinds in the desert which fairly +choked the ears and nostrils when thus attacked. June is the +season when these phenomena are most prevalent. At that time the +rains have commenced in the south, and are extending towards the +north; the cold and heavy air of the southern rain-clouds sweeps +down upon the overheated atmosphere of the desert, and produces +sudden violent squalls and whirlwinds when least expected, as at +that time the sky is cloudless. + +The effect of these desert whirlwinds is most curious, as their +force is sufficient to raise dense columns of sand and dust +several thousand feet high; these are not the evanescent +creations of a changing wind, but they frequently exist for many +hours, and travel forward, or more usually in circles, resembling +in the distance solid pillars of sand. The Arab superstition +invests these appearances with the supernatural, and the +mysterious sand-column of the desert wandering in its burning +solitude, is an evil spirit, a "Gin" ("genii" plural, of the +Arabian Nights). I have frequently seen many such columns at the +same time in the boundless desert, all travelling or waltzing in +various directions at the wilful choice of each whirlwind: this +vagrancy of character is an undoubted proof to the Arab mind of +their independent and diabolical origin. + +The Abyssinian traveller, Bruce, appears to have entertained a +peculiar dread of the dangers of such sand columns, but on this +point his fear was exaggerated. Cases may have occurred where +caravans have been suffocated by whirlwinds of sand, but these +are rare exceptions, and the usual effects of the dust storm are +the unroofing of thatched huts, the destruction of a few date +palms, and the disagreeable amount of sand that not only half +chokes both man and beast, but buries all objects that may be +lying on the ground some inches deep in dust. + +The wind at this season (June) was changeable, and strong blasts +from the south were the harbingers of the approaching rainy +season. We had no time to lose, and we accordingly arranged to +start. I discharged my dirty cook, and engaged a man who was +brought by a coffee-house keeper, by whom he was highly +recommended; but, as a precaution against deception, I led him +before the Mudir, or Governor, to be registered before our +departure. To my astonishment, and to his infinite disgust, he +was immediately recognised as an old offender, who had formerly +been imprisoned for theft! The Governor, to prove his friendship, +and his interest in my welfare, immediately sent the police to +capture the coffee-house keeper who had recommended the cook. No +sooner was the unlucky surety brought to the Divan than he was +condemned to receive 200 lashes for having given a false +character. The sentence was literally carried out, in spite of my +remonstrance, and the police were ordered to make the case public +to prevent a recurrence. The Governor assured me, that as I held +a firman from the Viceroy he could not do otherwise, and that I +must believe him to be my truest friend. "Save me from my +friends," was an adage quickly proved. I could not procure a +cook, neither any other attendants, as every one was afraid to +guarantee a character, lest he might come in for his share of the +200 lashes! + +The Governor came to my rescue, and sent immediately the promised +Turkish soldiers, who were to act in the double capacity of +escort and servants. They were men of totally opposite +characters. Hadji Achmet was a hardy, powerful, +dare-devil-looking Turk, while Hadji Velli was the perfection of +politeness, and as gentle as a lamb. My new allies procured me +three donkeys in addition to the necessary baggage camels, and we +started from the pleasant garden of Halleem Effendi on the +evening of the 10th of June for the junction of the Atbara river +with the Nile. + + +CHAPTER II. + +"'Mongst them were several Englishmen of pith, +Sixteen named Thompson, and nineteen named Smith." +DON JUAN. + +MAHOMET, Achmet, and Ali are equivalent to Smith, Brown, and +Thompson. Accordingly, of my few attendants, my dragoman was +Mahomet, and my principal guide was Achmet; and subsequently I +had a number of Alis. Mahomet was a regular Cairo dragoman, a +native of Dongola, almost black, but exceedingly tenacious +regarding his shade of colour, which he declared to be light +brown. He spoke very bad English, was excessively conceited, and +irascible to a degree. No pasha was so bumptious or overbearing +to his inferiors, but to me and to his mistress while in Cairo he +had the gentleness of the dove, and I had engaged him at 5l. per +month to accompany me to the White Nile. Men change with +circumstances; climate affects the health and temper; the sleek +and well-fed dog is amiable, but he would be vicious when thin +and hungry; the man in luxury and the man in need are not equally +angelic. Now Mahomet was one of those dragomen who are accustomed +to the civilized expeditions of the British tourist to the first +or second cataract, in a Nile boat replete with conveniences and +luxuries, upon which the dragoman is monarch supreme, a whale +among the minnows, who rules the vessel, purchases daily a host +of unnecessary supplies, upon which he clears his profit, until +he returns to Cairo with his pockets filled sufficiently to +support him until the following Nile season. The short three +months' harvest, from November until February, fills his granary +for the year. Under such circumstances the temper should be +angelic. But times had changed: the luxurious Mahomet had left +the comfortable Nile boat at Korosko, and he had crossed the +burning desert upon a jolting camel; he had left the well-known +route where the dragoman was supreme, and he found himself among +people who treated him in the light of a common servant. "A +change came o'er the spirit of his dream;" Mahomet was no longer +a great man, and his temper changed with circumstances; in fact, +Mahomet became unbearable, and still he was absolutely necessary, +as he was the tongue of the expedition until we should accomplish +Arabic. To him the very idea of exploration was an absurdity; he +had never believed in it from the first, and he now became +impressed with the fact that he was positively committed to an +undertaking that would end most likely in his death, if not in +terrible difficulties; he determined, under the circumstances, to +make himself as disagreeable as possible to all parties. With +this amiable resolution Mahomet adopted a physical infirmity in +the shape of deafness; in reality, no one was more acute in +hearing, but as there are no bells where there are no houses, he +of course could not answer such a summons, and he was compelled +to attend to the call of his own name--"Mahomet! Mahomet!" No +reply, although the individual was sitting within a few feet, +apparently absorbed in the contemplation of his own boots. +"Mahomet!" with an additional emphasis upon the second syllable. +Again no response. "Mahomet, you rascal, why don't you answer?" +This energetic address would effect a change in his position; the +mild and lamb-like dragoman of Cairo would suddenly start from +the ground, tear his own hair from his head in handfuls, and +shout, "Mahomet! Mahomet! Mahomet! always Mahomet! D--n Mahomet! +I wish he were dead, or back in Cairo, this brute Mahomet!" The +irascible dragoman would then beat his own head unmercifully with +his fists, in a paroxysm of rage. + +To comfort him I could only exclaim, "Well done, Mahomet! thrash +him; pommel him well; punch his head; you know him best; he +deserves it; don't spare him!" This advice, acting upon the +natural perversity of his disposition, generally soothed him, and +he ceased punching his head. This man was entirely out of his +place, if not out of his mind, at certain moments, and having +upon one occasion smashed a basin by throwing it in the face of +the cook, and upon another occasion narrowly escaped homicide, by +throwing an axe at a man's head, which missed by an inch, he +became a notorious character in the little expedition. + +We left Berber in the evening at sunset; we were mounted upon +donkeys, while our Turkish attendants rode upon excellent +dromedaries that belonged to their regiment of irregular cavalry. +As usual, when ready to start, Mahomet was the last; he had piled +a huge mass of bags and various luggage upon his donkey, that +almost obscured the animal, and he sat mounted upon this pinnacle +dressed in gorgeous clothes, with a brace of handsome pistols in +his belt, and his gun slung across his shoulders. Upon my +remonstrating with him upon the cruelty of thus overloading the +donkey, he flew into a fit of rage, and dismounting immediately, +he drew his pistols from his belt and dashed them upon the +ground; his gun shared the same fate, and heaving his weapons +upon the sand, he sullenly walked behind his donkey, which he +drove forward with the caravan. + +We pushed forward at the usual rapid amble of the donkeys; and, +accompanied by Hadji Achmet upon his dromedary, with the +coffee-pot, &c. and a large Persian rug slung behind the saddle, +we quickly distanced the slower caravan under the charge of Hadji +Velli and the sullen Mahomet. + +There was no difficulty in the route, as the sterile desert of +sand and pebbles was bounded by a fringe of bush amid mimosa that +marked the course of the Nile, to which our way lay parallel. +There was no object to attract particular attention, and no sound +but that of the bleating goats driven homeward by the Arab boys, +and the sharp cry of the desert sand grouse as they arrived in +flocks to drink in the welcome river. The flight of these birds +is extremely rapid, and is more like that of the pigeon than the +grouse; they inhabit the desert, but they travel great distances +both night and morning to water, as they invariably drink twice +a day. As they approach the river they utter the cry "Chuckow, +chuckow," in a loud clear note, and immediately after drinking +they return upon their long flight to the desert. There are +several varieties of the sand grouse. I have met with three, but +they are dry, tough, and worthless as game. + +We slept in the desert about five miles from Berber, and on the +following day, after a scorching march of about twenty miles, we +arrived at the junction of the Atbara river with the Nile. +Throughout the route the barren sand stretched to the horizon on +the left, while on the right, within a mile of the Nile, the soil +was sufficiently rich to support a certain amount of +vegetation--chiefly dwarf mimosas and the Asclepias gigantea. The +latter I had frequently seen in Ceylon, where it is used +medicinally by the native doctors; but here it was ignored, +except for the produce of a beautiful silky down which is used +for stuffing cushions and pillows. This vegetable silk is +contained in a soft pod or bladder about the size of an orange. +Both the leaves and the stem of this plant emit a highly +poisonous milk, that exudes from the bark when cut or bruised; +the least drop of this will cause total blindness, if in contact +with the eye. I have seen several instances of acute ophthalmia +that have terminated in loss of sight from the accidental rubbing +of the eye with the hand when engaged in cutting firewood from +the asclepias. The wood is extremely light, and is frequently +tied into fagots and used by the Arabs as a support while +swimming, in lieu of cork. Although the poisonous qualities of +the plant cause it to be shunned by all other animals, it is +nevertheless greedily devoured by goats, who eat it unharmed. + +It was about two hours after sunset when we arrived at the steep +bank of the Atbara river. Pushing through the fringe of young +dome palms that formed a thick covert upon the margin, we +cautiously descended the bank for about twenty-five feet, as the +bright glare of the river's bed deceived me by the resemblance to +water. We found a broad surface of white sand, which at that +season formed the dry bed of the river. Crossing this arid bottom +of about 400 yards in width, we unsaddled on the opposite side, +by a bed of water melons planted near a small pool of water. A +few of these we chopped in pieces for our tired donkeys, and we +shared in the cool and welcome luxury ourselves that was most +refreshing after the fatigue of the day's journey. Long before +our camels arrived, we had drunk our coffee and were sound asleep +upon the sandy bed of the Atbara. + +At daybreak on the following morning, while the camels were being +loaded, I strolled to a small pool in the sand, tempted by a +couple of wild geese; these were sufficiently unsophisticated as +to allow me to approach within shot, and I bagged them both, and +secured our breakfast; they were the common Egyptian geese, which +are not very delicate eating. The donkeys being saddled, we at +once started with our attendant, Hadji Achmet, at about five +miles per hour, in advance of our slower caravan. The route was +upon the river's margin, due east, through a sandy copse of +thorny mimosas which fringed the river's course for about a +quarter of a mile on either side; beyond this all was desert. + +The Atbara had a curious appearance; in no part was it less than +400 yards in width, while in many places this breadth was much +exceeded. The banks were from twenty-five to thirty feet deep: +these had evidently been over-flowed during floods, bnt at the +present time the river was dead; not only partially dry, but so +glaring was the sandy bed, that the reflection of the sun was +almost unbearable. + +Great numbers of the dome palm (Hyphoene Thebaica, Mart.) grew +upon the banks; these trees are of great service to the Arab +tribes, who at this season of drought forsake the deserts and +flock upon the margin of the Atbara. The leaves of the dome +supply them with excellent material for mats and ropes, while the +fruit is used both for man and beast. The dome palm resembles the +palmyra in the form and texture of its fan-shaped leaves, but +there is a distinguishing peculiarity in the growth: instead of +the straight single stem of the palmyra, the dome palm spreads +into branches, each of which invariably represents the letter Y. +The fruit grows in dense clusters, numbering several hundred, of +the size of a small orange, but of an irregular oval shape; these +are of a rich brown colour, and bear a natural polish as though +varnished. So hard is the fruit and uninviting to the teeth, that +a deal board would be equally practicable for mastication; the +Arabs pound them between stones, by which rough process they +detach the edible portion in the form of a resinous powder. The +rind of the nut which produces this powder is about a quarter of +an inch thick; this coating covers a strong shell which contains +a nut of vegetable ivory, a little larger than a full-sized +walnut. When the resinous powder is detached, it is either eaten +raw, or it is boiled into a delicious porridge, with milk; this +has a strong flavour of gingerbread. + +The vegetable ivory nuts are then soaked in water for about +twenty-four hours, after which they are heaped in large piles +upon a fire until nearly dry, and thoroughly steamed; this +process renders them sufficiently tractable to be reduced by +pounding in a heavy mortar. Thus, broken into small pieces they +somewhat resemble half-roasted chestnuts, and in this state they +form excellent food for cattle. The useful dome palm is the chief +support of the desert Arabs when in times of drought and scarcity +the supply of corn has failed. At this season (June) there was +not a blade of even the withered grass of the desert oases. Our +donkeys lived exclusively upon the dhurra (Sorghum Egyptiaca) +that we carried with us, and the camels required a daily supply +of corn in addition to the dry twigs and bushes that formed their +dusty food. The margin of the river was miserable and uninviting; +the trees and bushes were entirely leafless from the intense +heat, as are the trees in England during winter. The only shade +was afforded by the evergreen dome palms; nevertheless, the Arabs +occupied the banks at intervals of three or four miles, wherever +a pool of water in some deep bend of the dried river's bed +offered an attraction; in such places were Arab villages or +camps, of the usual mat tents formed of the dome palm leaves. + +Many pools were of considerable size and of great depth. In +flood-time a tremendous torrent sweeps down the course of the +Atbara, and the sudden bends of the river are hollowed out by the +force of the stream to a depth of twenty or thirty feet below the +level of the bed. Accordingly these holes become reservoirs of +water when the river is otherwise exhausted. In such asylums all +the usual inhabitants of this large river are crowded together in +a comparatively narrow space. Although these pools vary in size, +from only a few hundred yards to a mile in length, they are +positively full of life; huge fish, crocodiles of immense size, +turtles, and occasionally hippopotami, consort together in close +and unwished-for proximity. + +The animals of the desert--gazelles, hyaenas, and wild asses--are +compelled to resort to these crowded drinking-places, occupied by +the flocks of the Arabs equally with the timid beasts of the +chase. The birds that during the cooler months would wander free +throughout the country, are now collected in vast numbers along +the margin of the exhausted river; innumerable doves, varying in +species, throng the trees and seek the shade of the dome palms; +thousands of desert grouse arrive morning and evening to drink +and to depart; while birds in multitudes, of lovely plumage, +escape from the burning desert, and colonize the poor but welcome +bushes that fringe the Atbara river. + +The heat was intense. As we travelled along the margin of the +Atbara, and felt with the suffering animals the exhaustion of the +clinmate, I acknowledged the grandeur of the Nile that could +overcome the absorption of such thirsty sands, and the +evaporation caused by the burning atmosphere of Nubia. For nearly +1,200 miles from the junction of the Atbara with the parent +stream to the Mediterranean, not one streamlet joined the +mysterious river, neither one drop of rain ruffled its waters, +unless a rare thunder-shower, as a curious phenomenon, startled +the Arabs as they travelled along the desert. Nevertheless the +Nile overcame its enemies, while the Atbara shrank to a skeleton, +bare and exhausted, reduced to a few pools that lay like blotches +along the broad surface of glowing sand. + +Notwithstanding the overpowering sun, there were certain +advantages to the traveller at this season; it was unnecessary to +carry a large supply of water, as it could be obtained at +intervals of a few miles. There was an indescribable delight in +the cool night, when, in the perfect certainty of fine weather, +we could rest in the open air with the clear bright starlit sky +above us. There were no mosquitoes, neither were there any of the +insect plagues of the tropics; the air was too dry for the gnat +tribe, and the moment of sunset was the signal for perfect +enjoyment, free from the usual drawbacks of African travel. As +the river pools were the only drinking-places for birds and game, +the gun supplied not only my own party, but I had much to give +away to the Arabs in exchange for goat's milk, the meal of the +dome nuts, &c. Gazelles were exceedingly numerous, but shy, and +so difficult to approach that they required most careful +stalking. At this season of intense heat they drank twice a +day--at about an hour after sunrise, and half an hour before +sunset. + +The great comfort of travelling along the bank of the river in a +desert country is the perfect freedom, as a continual supply of +water enables the explorer to rest at his leisure in any +attractive spot where game is plentiful, or where the natural +features of the country invite investigation. We accordingly +halted, after some days' journey, at a spot named Collodabad, +where an angle of the river had left a deep pool of about a mile +in length: this was the largest sheet of water that we had seen +throughout the course of the Atbara. A number of Arabs had +congregated at this spot with their flocks and herds; the total +absence of verdure had reduced the animals to extreme leanness, +as the goats gathered their scanty sustenance from the seed-pods +of the mimosas, which were shaken down to the expectant flocks by +the Arab boys, with long hooked poles. These seeds were extremely +oily, and resembled linseed, but the rank flavour was +disagreeable and acrid. + +This spot was seven days' march from the Nile junction, or about +160 miles. The journey had been extremely monotonous, as there +had been no change in the scenery; it was the interminable +desert, with the solitary streak of vegetation in the belt of +mimosas and dome palms, about a mile and a half in width, that +marked the course of the river. I had daily shot gazelles, geese, +pigeons, desert grouse, &c. but no larger game. I was informed +that at this spot, Collodabad, I should be introduced for the +first time to the hippopotamus. + +Owing to the total absence of nourishing food, the cattle +produced a scanty supply of milk; thus the Arabs, who depended +chiefly upon their flocks for their subsistence, were in great +distress, and men and beasts mutually suffered extreme hardship. +The Arabs that occupy the desert north of the Atbara are the +Bishareens; it was among a large concourse of these people that +we pitched our tents on the banks of the river at Collodabad. + +This being the principal watering-place along the deserted bed of +the Atbara, the neighbourhood literally swarmed with doves, sand +grouse, and other birds, in addition to many geese and pelicans. + +Early in the morning I procured an Arab guide to search for the +reported hippopotami. My tents were among a grove of dome palms +on the margin of the river; thus I had a clear view of the bed +for a distance of about half a mile on either side. This portion +of the Atbara was about 500 yards in width, the banks were about +thirty feet perpendicular depth; and the bend of the river had +caused the formation of the deep hollow on the opposite side +which now formed the pool, while every other part was dry. This +pool occupied about one-third the breadth of the river, bounded +by the sand upon one side, and by a perpendicular cliff upon the +other, upon which grew a fringe of green bushes similar to +willows. These were the only succulent leaves that I had seen +since I left Berber. + +We descended the steep sandy bank in a spot that the Arabs had +broken down to reach the water, and after trudging across about +400 yards of deep sand, we reached the extreme and narrowest end +of the pool; here for the first time I saw the peculiar four-toed +print of the hippopotamus's foot. A bed of melons had been +planted here by the Arabs in the moist sand near the water, but +the fruit had been entirely robbed by the hippopotami. A melon is +exactly adapted for the mouth of this animal, as he could crunch +the largest at one squeeze, and revel in the juice. Not contented +with the simple fruits of the garden, a large bull hippopotamus +had recently killed the proprietor. The Arab wished to drive it +from his plantation, but was immediately attacked by the hippo, +who caught him in its mouth and killed him by one crunch. This +little incident had rendered the hippo exceedingly daring, and it +had upon several occasions charged out of the water, when the +people had driven their goats to drink; therefore it would be the +more satisfactory to obtain a shot, and to supply the hungry +Arabs with meat at the expense of their enemy. + +At this early hour, 6 A.M., no one had descended to the pool, +thus all the tracks upon the margin were fresh and undisturbed: +there were the huge marks of crocodiles that had recently +returned to the water, while many of great size were still lying +upon the sand in the distance: these slowly crept into the pool +as we approached. The Arabs had dug small holes in the sand +within a few yards of the water: these were the artificial +drinking-places for their goats and sheep, that would have been +snapped up by the crocodiles had they ventured to drink in the +pool of crowded monsters. I walked for about a mile and a half +along the sand without seeing a sign of hippopotami, except their +numerous tracks upon the margin. There was no wind, and the +surface of the water was unruffled; thus I could see every +creature that rose in the pool either to breathe or to bask in +the morning sunshine. The number and size of the fish, turtles, +and crocodiles were extraordinary; many beautiful gazelles +approached from all sides for their morning draught: wild geese, +generally in pairs, disturbed the wary crocodiles by their cry of +alarm as we drew near, and the desert grouse in flocks of many +thousands had gathered together, and were circling in a rapid +flight above the water, wishing, but afraid, to descend and +drink. Having a shot gun with me, I fired and killed six at one +discharge, but one of the wounded birds having fallen into the +water at a distance of about 120 yards, it was immediately seized +by a white-throated fish-eagle, which perched upon a tree, +swooped down upon the bird, utterly disregarding the report of +the gun. The Bishareen Arabs have no fire-arms, thus the sound of +a gun was unknown to the game of the desert. + +I had killed several wild geese for breakfast in the absence of +the hippopotami, when I suddenly heard the peculiar loud snorting +neigh of these animals in my rear; we had passed them +unperceived, as they had been beneath the surface. After a quick +walk of about half a mile, during which time the cry of the +hippos had been several times repeated, I observed six of these +curious animals standing in the water about shoulder-deep. There +was no cover, therefore I could only advance upon the sand +without a chance of stalking them; this caused them to retreat to +deeper water, but upon my arrival within about eighty yards, they +raised their heads well up, and snorted an impudent challenge. I +had my old Ceylon No. 10 double rifle, and, taking a steady aim +at the temple of one that appeared to be the largest, the ball +cracked loudly upon the skull. Never had there been such a +commotion in the pool as now! At the report of the rifle, five +heads sank and disappeared like stones, but the sixth hippo +leaped half out of the water, and, falling backwards, commenced +a series of violent struggles: now upon his back; then upon one +side, with all four legs frantically paddling, and raising a +cloud of spray and foam; then waltzing round and round with its +huge jaws wide open, raising a swell in the hitherto calm surface +of the water. A quick shot with the left-hand barrel produced no +effect, as the movements of the animal were too rapid to allow a +steady aim at the forehead; I accordingly took my trmisty little +Fletcher* double rifle No. 24, and, running knee-deep into the +water to obtain a close shot, I fired exactly between the eyes, +near the crown of the head. At the report of the little Fletcher +the hippo disappeared; the tiny waves raised by the commotion +broke upon the sand, but the game was gone. + + * This excellent and handy rifle was made by Thomas Fletcher, + of Gloucester, and accompanied me like a faithful dog + throughout my journey of nearly five years to the Albert + N'yanza, and returned with me to England as good as new. + +This being my first vis-a-vis with a hippo, I was not certain +whether I could claim the victory; he was gone, but where? +However, while I was speculating upon the case, I heard a +tremendous rush of water, and I saw five hippopotami tearing +along in full trot through a portion of the pool that was not +deep enough to cover them above the shoulder: this was the affair +of about half a minute, as they quickly reached deep water, and +disappeared at about a hundred and fifty yards' distance. + +The fact of five hippos in retreat after I had counted six in the +onset was conclusive that my waltzing friend was either dead or +disabled; I accordingly lost no time in following the direction +of the herd. Hardly had I arrived at the spot where they had +disappeared, when first one and then another head popped up and +again sank, until one more hardy than the rest ventured to appear +within fifty yards, and to bellow as before. Once more the No. 10 +crashed through his head, and again the waltzing and struggling +commenced like the paddling of a steamer: this time, however, the +stunned hippo in its convulsive efforts came so close to the +shore that I killed it directly in shallow water, by a forehead +shot with the little Fletcher. I concluded from this result that +my first hippo must also be lying dead in deep water. + +The Arabs, having heard the shots fired, had begun to gather +towards the spot, and, upon my men shouting that a hippo was +killed, crowds came running to the place with their knives and +ropes, while others returned to their encampment to fetch camels +and mat bags to convey the flesh. In half an hour at least three +hundred Arabs were on the spot; the hippo had been hauled to +shore by ropes, and, by the united efforts of the crowd, the +heavy carcase had been rolled to the edge of the water. Here the +attack commenced; no pack of hungry hyaenas could have been more +savage. I gave them permission to take the flesh, and in an +instant a hundred knives were at work: they fought over the spoil +like wolves. No sooner was the carcase flayed than the struggle +commenced for the meat; the people were a mass of blood, as some +stood thigh-deep in the reeking intestines wrestling for the fat, +while many hacked at each other's hands for coveted portions that +were striven for as a bonne bouche. I left the savage crowd in +their ferocious enjoyment of flesh and blood, and I returned to +camp for breakfast, my Turk, Hadji Achmet, carrying some +hippopotamus steaks. + +That morning my wife and I breakfasted upon our first hippo, an +animal that was destined to be our general food throughout our +journey among the Abyssinian tributaries of the Nile. After +breakfast we strolled down to the pool to search for the +hippopotamus No. 1. This we at once found, dead, as it had risen +to the surface, and was floating like the back of a turtle a few +inches above the water. The Arabs had been so intent upon the +division of their spoil that they had not observed their new +prize; accordingly, upon the signal being given, a general rush +took place, and in half an hour a similar scene was enacted to +that of hippo No. 2. + +The entire Arab camp was in commotion and full of joy at this +unlooked-for arrival of flesh. Camels laden with meat and hide +toiled along the sandy bed of the river; the women raised their +long and shrill cry of delight; and we were looked upon as +general benefactors for having brought them a supply of good food +in this season of distress. In the afternoon I arranged my +tackle, and strolled down to the pool to fish. There was a +difficulty in procuring bait; a worm was never heard of in the +burning deserts of Nubia, neither had I a net to catch small +fish; I was therefore obliged to bait with pieces of +hippopotamnus. Fishing in such a pool as that of the Atbara was +sufficiently exciting, as it was impossible to speculate upon +what creature might accept the invitation; but the Arabs who +accompanied me were particular in guarding me against the +position I had taken under a willow-bush close to the water, as +they explained, that most probably a crocodile would take me +instead of the bait; they declared that accidents had frequently +happened when people had sat upon the bank either to drink with +their hands, or even while watching their goats. I accordingly +fished at a few feet distant from the margin, and presently I had +a bite; I landed a species of perch about two pounds' weight; +this was the "boulti," one of the best Nile fish mentioned by the +traveller Bruce. In a short time I had caught a respectable dish +of fish, but hitherto no monster had paid me the slightest +attention; accordingly I changed my bait, and upon a powerful +hook, fitted upon treble-twisted wire, I fastened an enticing +strip of a boulti. The bait was about four ounces, and glistened +like silver; the water was tolerably clear, but not too bright, +and with such an attraction I expected something heavy. My float +was a large-sized pike-float for live bait, and this civilized +sign had been only a few minutes in the wild waters of the +Atbara, when, bob! and away it went! I had a very large reel, +with nearly three hundred yards of line that had been specially +made for monsters; down went the top of my rod, as though a +grindstone was suspended on it, and, as I recovered its position, +away went the line, and the reel revolved, not with the sudden +dash of a spirited fish, but with the steady determined pull of +a trotting horse. What on earth have I got hold of? In a few +minutes about a hundred yards of line were out, and as the +creature was steadily but slowly travelling down the centre of +the channel, I determined to cry "halt!" if possible, as my +tackle was extremely strong, and my rod was a single bamboo. +Accordingly, I put on a powerful strain, which was replied to by +a sullen tug, a shake, and again my rod was pulled suddenly down +to the water's edge. At length, after the roughest handling, I +began to reel in slack line, as my unknown friend had doubled in +upon me; and upon once more putting severe pressure upon him or +her, as it might be, I perceived a great swirl in the water, +about twenty yards from the rod. The tackle would bear anything, +and I strained so heavily upon my adversary, that I soon reduced +our distance; but the water was exceedingly deep, the bank +precipitous, and he was still invisible. At length, after much +tugging and counter-tugging, he began to show; eagerly I gazed +into the water to examine my new acquaintance, when I made out +something below, in shape between a coach-wheel and a +sponging-bath; in a few moments more I brought to the surface an +enormous turtle, well hooked. I felt like the old lady who won an +elephant in a lottery: that I had him was certain, but what was +I to do with my prize? It was at the least a hundred pounds' +weight, and the bank was steep and covered with bushes; thus it +was impossible to land the monster, that now tugged and dived +with the determination of the grindstone that his first pull had +suggested. Once I attempted the gaff but the trusty weapon that +had landed many a fish in Scotland broke in the hard shell of the +turtle, and I was helpless. My Arab now came to my assistance, +and at once terminated the struggle. Seizing the line with both +hands, utterly regardless of all remonstrance (which, being in +English, he did not understand), he quickly hauled our turtle to +the surface, and held it, struggling and gnashing its jaws, close +to the steep bank. In a few moments the line slackened, and the +turtle disappeared. The fight was over! The sharp horny jaws had +bitten through treble-twisted brass wire as clean as though cut +by shears. My visions of turtle soup had faded. + +The heavy fish were not in the humour to take; I therefore shot +one with a rifle as it came to the surface to blow, and, the +water in this spot being shallow, we brought it to shore; it was +a species of carp, between thirty and forty pounds; the scales +were rather larger than a crown piece, and so hard that they +would have been difficult to pierce with a harpoon. It proved to +be useless for the table, being of an oily nature that was only +acceptable to the Arabs. + +In the evening I went out stalking in the desert, and returned +with five fine buck gazelles. These beautiful creatures so +exactly resemble the colour of the sandy deserts which they +inhabit, that they are most difficult to distinguish, and their +extreme shyness renders stalking upon foot very uncertain. I +accordingly employed an Arab to lead a camel, under cover of +which I could generally manage to approach within a hundred +yards. A buck gazelle weighs from sixty to seventy pounds, and is +the perfection of muscular development. No person who has seen +the gazelles in confinement in a temperate climate can form an +idea of the beauty of the animal in its native desert. Born in +the scorching sun, nursed on the burning sand of the treeless and +shadowless wilderness, the gazelle is among the antelope tribe as +the Arab horse is among its brethren, the high-bred and +superlative beauty of the race. The skin is as sleek as satin, of +a colour difficult to describe, as it varies between the lightest +mauve and yellowish brown; the belly is snow-white; the legs, +from the knee downwards, are also white, and are as fine as +though carved from ivory; the hoof is beautifully shaped, and +tapers to a sharp point; the head of the buck is ornamented by +gracefully-curved annulated horns, perfectly black, and generally +from nine to twelve inches long in the bend; the eye is the +well-known perfection--the full, large, soft, and jet-black eye +of the gazelle. Although the desert appears incapable of +supporting animmial life, there are in the undulating surface +numerous shallow sandy ravines, in which are tufts of a herbage +so coarse that, as a source of nourishment, it would be valueless +to a domestic animal: nevertheless, upon this dry and wiry +substance the delicate gazelles subsist; and, although they never +fatten, they are exceedingly fleshy and in excellent condition. +Entirely free from fat, and nevertheless a mass of muscle and +sinew, the gazelle is the fastest of the antelope tribe. Proud of +its strength, and confident in its agility, it will generally +bound perpendicularly four or five feet from the ground several +times before it starts at full speed, as though to test the +quality of its sinews before the race. The Arabs course them with +greyhounds, and sometimes they are caught by running several dogs +at the same time; but this result is from the folly of the +gazelle, who at first distances his pursuers like the wind; but, +secure in its speed, it halts and faces the dogs, exhausting +itself by bounding exultingly in the air; in the meantime the +greyhounds are closing up, and diminishing the chance of escape. +As a rule, notwithstanding this absurdity of the gazelle, it has +the best of the race, and the greyhounds return crestfallen and +beaten. Altogether it is the most beautiful specimen of game that +exists, far too lovely and harmless to be hunted and killed for +the mere love of sport. But when dinner depends upon the rifle, +beauty is no protection; accordingly, throughout our desert march +we lived upon gazelles, and I am sorry to confess that I became +very expert at stalking these wary little animals. The flesh, +although tolerably good, has a slight flavour of musk; this is +not peculiar to the gazelle, as the odour is common to most of +the small varieties of antelopes. + +Having a good supply of meat, all hands were busily engaged in +cutting it into strips and drying it for future use; the bushes +were covered with festoons of flesh of gazelles and hippopotami, +and the skins of the former were prepared for making girbas, or +water-sacks. The flaying process for this purpose is a delicate +operation, as the knife must be so dexterously used that no false +cut should injure the hide. The animal is hung up by the hind +legs; an incision is then made along the inside of both thighs to +the tail, and with some trouble the skin is drawn off the body +towards the head, precisely as a stocking might be drawn from the +leg; by this operation the skin forms a seamless bag, open at +both ends. To form a girba, the skin must be buried in the earth +for about twenty hours: it is then washed in water, and the hair +is easily detached. Thus rendered clean, it is tanned by soaking +for several days in a mixture of the bark of a mimosa and water; +from this it is daily withdrawn, and stretched out with pegs upon +the ground; it is then well scrubbed with a rough stone, and +fresh mimosa bark well bruised, with water, is rubbed in by the +friction. About four days are sufficient to tan the thin skin of +a gazelle, which is much valued for its toughness and durability; +the aperture at the hind quarters is sewn together, and the +opening of the neck is closed, when required, by tying. A good +water-skin should be porous, to allow the water to exude +sufficiently to moisten the exterior: thus the action of the air +upon the exposed surface causes evaporation, and imparts to the +water within the skin a delicious coolness. The Arabs usually +prepare their tanned skins with an empyreumatical oil made from +a variety of substances, the best of which is that from the +sesame grain; this has a powerful smell, and renders the water so +disagreeable that few Europeans could drink it. This oil is +black, and much resembles tar in appearance; it has the effect of +preserving the leather, and of rendering it perfectly +water-tight. In desert travelling each person should have his own +private water-skin slung upon his dromedary; for this purpose +none are so good as a small-sized gazelle skin that will contain +about two gallons. + +On the 23d June we were nearly suffocated by a whirlwind that +buried everything within the tents several inches in dust; the +heat was intense; as usual the sky was spotless, but the simoom +was more overpowering than I had yet experienced. I accordingly +took my rifle and went down to the pool, as any movement, even in +the burning sun, was preferable to inaction in that sultry heat +and dust. The crocodiles had dragged the skeletons of the +hippopotami into the water; several huge heads appeared and then +vanished from the surface, and the ribs of the carcase that +projected, trembled and jerked as the jaws of the crocodiles were +at work beneath. I shot one of very large size through the head, +but it sank to the bottom; I expected to find it on the following +morning floating upon the surface when the gas should have +distended the body. + +I also shot a large single bull hippopotamus late in the evening, +which was alone at the extremity of the pool; he sank at the +forehead shot, and, as he never rose again, I concluded that he +was dead, and that I should find him on the morrow with the +crocodile. Tired with the heat, I trudged homeward over the hot +and fatiguing sand of the river's bed. + +The cool night arrived, and at about half-past eight I was lying +half asleep upon my bed by the margin of the river, when I +fancied that I heard a rumbling like distant thunder: I had not +heard such a sound for months, but a low uninterrupted roll +appeared to increase in volume, although far distant. Hardly had +I raised my head to listen more attentively when a confusion of +voices arose from the Arabs' camp, with a sound of many feet, and +in a few minutes they rushed into my camp, shouting to my men in +the darkness, "El Bahr! El Bahr!" (the river! the river!) + +We were up in an instant, and my interpreter, Mahomet, in a state +of intense confusion, explained that the river was coming down, +and that the supposed distant thunder was the roar of approaching +water. + +Many of the people were asleep on the clean sand on the river's +bed; these were quickly awakened by the Arabs, who rushed down +the steep bank to save the skulls of my two hippopotami that were +exposed to dry. Hardly had they descended, when the sound of the +river in the darkness beneath told us that the water had arrived, +and the men, dripping with wet, had just sufficient time to drag +their heavy burdens up the bank. + +All was darkness and confusion; everybody was talking and no one +listening; but the great event had occurred the river had arrived +"like a thief in the night." On the morning of the 24th June, I +stood on the banks of the noble Atbara river, at the break of +day. The wonder of the desert!--yesterday there was a barren +sheet of glaring sand, with a fringe of withered bush and trees +upon its borders, that cut the yellow expanse of desert. For days +we had journeyed along the exhausted bed: all Nature, even in +Nature's poverty, was most poor: no bush could boast a leaf: no +tree could throw a shade: crisp gums crackled upon the stems of +the mimosas, the sap dried upon the burst bark, sprung with the +withering heat of the simoom. In one night there was a mysterious +change--wonders of the mighty Nile!--an army of water was +hastening to the wasted river: there was no drop of rain, no +thunder-cloud on the horizon to give hope, all had been dry and +sultry; dust and desolation yesterday, to-day a magnificent +stream, some 500 yards in width and from fifteen to twenty feet +in depth, flowed through the dreary desert! Bamboos and reeds, +with trash of all kinds, were hurried along the muddy waters. +Where were all the crowded inhabitants of the pool? The prison +doors were broken, the prisoners were released, and rejoiced in +the mighty stream of the Atbara. + +The 24th June, 1861, was a memorable day. Although this was +actually the beginning of my work, I felt that by the experience +of this night I had obtained a clue to one portion of the Nile +mystery, and that, as "coming events cast their shadows before +them," this sudden creation of a river was but the shadow of the +great cause. + +The rains were pouring in Abyssinia! these were sources of the +Nile! + +One of my Turks, Hadji Achmet, was ill; therefore, although I +longed to travel, it was necessary to wait. I extract verbatim +from my journal, 26th June:--"The river has still risen; the +weather is cooler, and the withered trees and bushes are giving +signs of bursting into leaf. This season may be termed the spring +of this country. The frightful simoom of April, May, and June, +burns everything as though parched by fire, and not even a +withered leaf hangs to a bough, but the trees wear a wintry +appearance in the midst of intense heat. The wild geese have +paired, the birds are building their nests, and, although not +even a drop of dew has fallen, all Nature seems to be aware of an +approaching change, as the south wind blowing cool from the wet +quarter is the harbinger of rain. Already some of the mimosas +begin to afford a shade, under which the gazelles may be surely +found at mid-day; the does are now in fawn, and the young will be +dropped when this now withered land shall be green with herbage. + +"Busy, packing for a start to-morrow; I send Hadji Velli back to +Berber in charge of the two hippos' heads to the care of the good +old Halleem Effendi. No time for shooting to-day. I took out all +the hippos' teeth, of which he possesses 40, 10--10, + ------ + 10--10 +six tusks and fourteen molars in each jaw. The bones of the +hippopotamus, like those of the elephant, are solid, and without +marrow." + + +CHAPTER III. + +WILD ASSES OF THE DESERT. + +THE journey along the margin of the Atbara was similar to the +entire route from Berber, a vast desert, with the narrow band of +trees that marked the course of the river; the only change was +the magical growth of the leaves, which burst hourly from the +swollen buds of the mimosas: this could be accounted for by the +sudden arrival of the river, as the water percolated rapidly +through the sand and nourished the famishing roots. + +The tracks of wild asses had been frequent, but hitherto I had +not seen the animals, as their drinking-hour was at night, after +which they travelled far into the desert: however, on the morning +of the 29th June, shortly after the start at about 6 A.M., we +perceived three of these beautiful creatures on our left--an ass, +a female, and a foal. They were about half a mile distant when +first observed, and upon our approach to within half that +distance they halted and faced about; they were evidently on +their return to the desert from the river. Those who have seen +donkeys in their civilized state have no conception of the beauty +of the wild and original animal. Far from the passive and subdued +appearance of the English ass, the animal in its native desert is +the perfection of activity and courage; there is a high-bred tone +in the deportment, a high-actioned step when it trots freely over +the rocks and sand, with the speed of a horse when it gallops +over the boundless desert. No animal is more difficult of +approach; and, although they are frequently captured by the +Arabs, those taken are invariably the foals, which are ridden +down by fast dromedaries, while the mothers escape. The colour of +the wild ass is a reddish cream tinged with the shade most +prevalent of the ground that it inhabits; thus it much resembles +the sand of the desert. I wished to obtain a specimen, and +accordingly I exerted my utmost knowledge of stalking to obtain +a shot at the male. After at least an hour and a half I succeeded +in obtaining a long shot with a single rifle, which passed +through the shoulder, and I secured my first and last donkey. It +was with extreme regret that I saw my beautiful prize in the last +gasp, and I resolved never to fire another shot at one of its +race. This fine specimen was in excellent condition, although the +miserable pasturage of the desert is confined to the wiry herbage +already mentioned; of this the stomach was full, chewed into +morsels like chopped reeds. The height of this male ass was about +13.3 or 14 hands; the shoulder was far more sloping than that of +the domestic ass, the hoofs were remarkable for their size; they +were wide, firm, and as broad as those of a horse of 15 hands. +I skinned this animal carefully, and the Arabs divided the flesh +among them, while Hadji Achmet selected a choice piece for our +own dinner. At the close of our march that evening, the morsel of +wild ass was cooked in the form of "rissoles:" the flavour +resembled beef but it was extremely tough. + +On the following day, 30th June, we reached Gozerajup, a large +permanent village on the south bank of the river. By dead +reckoning we had marched 246 miles from Berber. This spot was +therefore about 220 miles from the junction of the Atbara with +the Nile. Here we remained for a few days to rest the donkeys and +to engage fresh camels. An extract from my journal will give a +general idea of this miserable country:-- + +"July 3.--I went out early to get something for breakfast, and +shot a hare and seven pigeons. On my return to camp, an Arab +immediately skinned the hare, and pulling out the liver, lungs, +and kidneys, he ate them raw and bloody. The Arabs invariably eat +the lungs, liver, kidneys, and the thorax of sheep, gazelles, &c. +while they are engaged in skinning the beasts, after which they +crack the leg bones between stones, and suck out the raw marrow." + +A Bishareen Arab wears his hair in hundreds of minute plaits +which hang down to his shoulders, surmounted by a circular bushy +topknot upon the crown, about the size of a large breakfast-cup, +from the base of which the plaits descend. When in full dress, +the plaits are carefully combed out with an ivory skewer about +eighteen inches in length; after this operation, the head appears +like a huge black mop surmounted by a fellow mop of a small size. +Through this mass of hair he carries his skewer, which is +generally ornamented, and which answers the double purpose of +comb and general scratcher. + +The men have remarkably fine features, but the women are not +generally pretty. The Bishareen is the largest Arab tribe of +Nubia. Like all the Arabs of Upper Egypt, they pay taxes to the +Viceroy; these are gathered by parties of soldiers, who take the +opportunity of visiting them during the drought, at which time +they can be certainly found near the river; but at any other +season it would be as easy to collect tribute from the gazelles +of the desert as from the wandering Bishareens. The appearance of +Turkish soldiers is anything but agreeable to the Arabs; +therefore my escort of Turks was generally received with the +"cold shoulder" upon our arrival at an Arab camp, and no supplies +were forthcoming in the shape of milk, &c. until the long +coorbatch (hippopotamus whip) of Hadji Achmet had cracked several +times across the shoulders of the village headman. At first this +appeared to me extremely brutal, but I was given to understand +that I was utterly ignorant of the Arab character, and that he +knew best. I found by experience that Hadji Achmet was correct; +even where milk was abundant, the Arabs invariably declared that +they had not a drop, that the goats were dry, or had strayed +away; and some paltry excuses were offered until the temper of +the Turk became exhausted, and the coorbatch assisted in the +argument. A magician's rod could not have produced a greater +miracle than the hippopotamus whip. The goats were no longer dry, +and in a few minutes large gourds of milk were brought, and +liberally paid for, while I was ridiculed by the Turk, Hadji +Achmet, for so foolishly throwing away money to the "Arab dogs." + +Our route was to change. We had hitherto followed the course of +the Atbara, but we were now to leave that river on our right, +while we should travel S.E. about ninety miles to Cassala, the +capital of the Taka country, on the confines of Abyssinia, the +great depot upon that frontier for Egyptian troops, military +stores, &c. + +Having procured fresh camels, we started on 5th July. This +portion of the desert was rich in agates and numerous specimens +of bloodstone. Exactly opposite the village of Gozerajup are +curious natural landmarks,--four pyramidical hills of granite +that can be seen for many miles' distance in this perfectly level +country. One of these hills is about 500 feet high, and is +composed entirely of flaked blocks of grey granite piled one upon +the other; some of these stand perpendicularly in single masses +from 30 to 50 feet high, and from a distance might be taken for +giants climbing the hill-side. The pinnacle has a peculiar +conical cap, which appears to have been placed there by design, +but upon closer inspection it is found to be natural, as no stone +of such immense size could have been placed in such a position. + +For the first two hours' march from this landmark, the country +was covered with scrubby bush abounding in gazelles and +guinea-fowl. Here, for the first time, I saw the secretary bird, +known to the Arabs as the "Devil's horse." A pair of these +magnificent birds were actively employed in their useful +avocation of hunting reptiles, which they chased with wonderful +speed. Great numbers of wild asses passed us during the march +towards evening; they were on their way from the desert to the +Atbara river, some miles distant upon the west. Veritable thunder +we now heard for the first time in Africa, and a cloud rose with +great rapidity from the horizon. A cloud was a wonder that we had +not enjoyed for months, but as this increased both in size and +density, accompanied by a gust of cool wind, we were led to +expect a still greater wonder--RAIN! Hardly had we halted for the +night, when down it came in torrents, accompanied by a heavy +thunderstorm. On the following morning, we experienced the +disadvantage of rain; the ground was so slippery that the camels +could not march, and we were obliged to defer our start until the +sun had dried the surface. + +We had now arrived at the most interesting point to an explorer. +From Cairo to within a few miles south of Gozerajup stretched the +unbroken desert through which we had toiled from Korosko, and +which had so firmly impressed its dreariness upon the mind that +nothing but desert had been expected: we had learned to be +content in a world of hot sand, rocks, and pebbles; but we had +arrived upon the limit; the curious landmark of Gozerajup was an +everlasting beacon that marked the frontier of the Nubian desert; +it was a giant warder, that seemed to guard the living south from +the dreadful skeleton of nature on the north; the desert had +ceased! + +It was a curious and happy coincidence that onr arrival upon the +limits of the desert should have been celebrated by the first +shower of rain: we no longer travelled upon sand and stones, but +we stood upon a fertile loam, rendered soapy and adhesive by the +recent shower. The country was utterly barren at that season, as +the extreme heat of the sun and simoom destroys all vegetation so +thoroughly that it becomes as crisp as glass; the dried grass +breaks in the wind, and is carried away in dust, leaving the +earth so utterly naked and bare that it is rendered a complete +desert. + +In the rainy season, the whole of this country, from the south to +Gozerajup, is covered with excellent pasturage, and, far from +resembling a desert, it becomes a mass of bright green herbage. +The Arabs and their flocks are driven from the south by the flies +and by the heavy rains, and Gozerajup offers a paradise to both +men and beasts; thousands of camels with their young, hundreds of +thousands of goats, sheep, and cattle, are accompanied by the +Arabs and their families, who encamp on the happy pastures during +the season of plenty. + +We had now passed the hunts occupied by the Bishareens, and we +had entered upon the country of the Hadendowa Arabs. These are an +exceedingly bad tribe, and, together with their neighbours, the +Hallonga Arabs, they fought determinedly against the Egyptians, +until finally conquered during the reign of the famous Mehemet +Ala Pasha, when the provinces of Nubia submitted unconditionally, +and became a portion of Upper Egypt. + +Upon arrival at Soojalup we came upon the principal encampment of +the Hadendowa during the dry season. Within a few miles of this +spot the scene had changed: instead of the bare earth denuded of +vegetation, the country was covered with jungle, already nearly +green, while the vast plains of grass, enlivened by beautiful +herds of antelopes, proved not only the fertility of the soil, +but the presence of moisture. Although there was no stream, nor +any appearance of a river's bed, Soojalup was well supplied with +water throughout the hottest season by numerous wells. This spot +is about forty miles distant from Gozerajup, and is the first +watering-place upon the route to Cassala. As we approached the +wells, we passed several large villages surrounded by fenced +gardens of cotton, and tobacco, both of which throve exceedingly. +Every village possessed a series of wells, with a simple +contrivance for watering their cattle:--Adjoining the mouth of +each well was a basin formed of clay, raised sufficiently high +above the level of the ground to prevent the animals from +treading it while drinking. With a rope and a leathern bag +distended by pieces of stick, the water was raised from the wells +and emptied into the clay basins; the latter were circular, about +nine feet in diameter, and two feet deep. I measured the depth of +some of the wells, and found a uniformity of forty feet. We +halted at Soojalup for the night: here for the first time I saw +the beautiful antelope known by the Arabs as the Ariel (Gazelle +Dama). This is a species of gazelle, being similar in form and in +shape of the horns, but as large as a fallow deer: the colour +also nearly resembles that of the gazelle, with the exception of +the rump, which is milk-white. + +These animals had no water nearer than the Atbara river, unless +they could obtain a stealthy supply from the cattle basins of the +Arabs during the night; they were so wild, from being constantly +disturbed and hunted by the Arab dogs, that I found it impossible +to stalk them upon the evening of our arrival. The jungles +literally swarmed with guinea-fowl--I shot nine in a few minutes, +and returned to camp with dinner for my whole party. The only +species of guinea-fowl that I have seen in Africa is that with +the blue comb and wattles. These birds are a blessing to the +traveller, as not only are they generally to be met with from the +desert frontier throughout the fertile portions of the south, but +they are extremely good eating, and far superior to the domestic +guinea-fowl of Europe. In this spot, Soojalup, I could have +killed any number, had I wished to expend my shot: but this most +necessary ammunition required much nursing during a long +exploration. I had a good supply, four hundredweight of the most +useful sizes, No. 6 for general shooting, and B B. for geese, +&c.; also a bag of No. 10, for firing into dense flocks of small +birds. On the following morning we left Soojalup; for several +miles on our route were Arab camps and wells, with immense herds +of goats, sheep, and cattle. Antelopes were very numerous, and it +was exceedingly interesting to observe the new varieties as we +increased our distance from the north. I shot two from my camel +(G. Dorcas); they were about the size of a fine roebuck;--the +horns were like those of the gazelle, but the animals were larger +and darker in colour, with a distinguishing mark in a jet black +stripe longitudinally dividing the white of the belly from the +reddish colour of the flank. These antelopes were exceedingly +wild, and without the aid of a camel it would have been +impossible to approach them. I had exchanged my donkey for Hadji +Achmet's dromedary; thus mounted, I could generally succeed in +stalking to within ninety or a hundred yards, by allowing the +animal to feed upon the various bushes, as though I had mounted +it for the purpose of leading it to graze. This deceived the +antelopes, and by carefully ascertaining the correct wind, I +obtained several shots, some of which failed, owing to the +unsteadiness of my steed, which had a strong objection to the +rifle. + +The entire country from Gozerajup to Cassala is a dead flat, upon +which there is not one tree sufficiently large to shade a +full-sized tent: there is no real timber in the country, but the +vast level extent of soil is a series of open plains and low bush +of thorny mimosa: there is no drainage upon this perfect level; +thus, during the rainy season, the soakage actually melts the +soil, and forms deep holes throughout the country, which then +becomes an impracticable slough, bearing grass and jungle. Upon +this fertile tract of land, cotton might be cultivated to a large +extent, and sent to Berber, via Atbara, from Gozerajup, during +the season of flood. At the present time, the growth is +restricted to the supply required by the Arabs for the +manufacture of their cloths. These are woven by themselves, the +weaver sitting in a hole excavated in the ground before his rude +loom, shaded by a rough thatch about ten feet square, supported +upon poles. There is a uniformity in dress throughout all the +Nubian tribes of Arabs, the simple toga of the Romans this is +worn in many ways, as occasion may suggest, very similar to the +Scotch plaid. The quality of cotton produced is the same as that +of Lower Egypt, and the cloths manufactured by the Arabs, +although coarse, are remarkably soft. The toga or tope is +generally ornamented with a few red stripes at either extremity, +and is terminated by a fringe. + +As we approached within about twenty-five miles o Cassala, I +remarked that the country on our left was in many places flooded; +the Arabs, who had hitherto been encamped in this neighbourhood +during the dry season, were migrating to other localities in the +neighbourhood of Soojalup and Gozerajup, with their vast herds of +camels and goats. As rain had not fallen in sufficient quantity +to account for the flood, I was informed that it was due to the +river Gash, or Mareb, which, flowing from Abyssinia, passed +beneath the walls of Cassala, and then divided into innumerable +ramifications; it was eventually lost, and disappeared in the +porous soil, after having flooded a large extent of country. This +cause accounted for the never-failing wells of Soojalup--doubtless +a substratum of clay prevented the total escape of the water, +which remained at a depth of forty feet from the surface. The +large tract of country thus annually flooded by the river Gash +is rendered extremely fruitful, and is the resort of both the +Hadendowa and the Hallonga Arabs during the dry season, who +cultivate large quantities of dhurra, and other grain. +Unfortunately, in these climates, fertility of soil is +generally combined with unhealthiness, and the commencement of +the rainy season is the signal for fevers and other maladies. No +sooner had we arrived in the flooded country than my wife was +seized with a sudden and severe attack, which necessitated a halt +upon the march, as she could no longer sit upon her camel. In the +evening, several hundreds of Arabs arrived, and encamped around +our fire. It was shortly after sunset, and it was interesting to +watch the extreme rapidity with which these swarthy sons of the +desert pitched their camp--a hundred fires were quickly blazing; +the women prepared the food, children sat in clusters round the +blaze, as all were wet from paddling through the puddled ground, +from which they were retreating. + +No sooner was the bustle of arrangement completed, than a grey +old man stepped forward, and, responding to his call, every man +of the hundreds present formed in line, three or four deep. At +once there was total silence, disturbed only by the crackling of +the fires, or by the cry of a child; and with faces turned to the +east, in attitudes of profound devotion, the wild but fervent +followers of Mahomet repeated their evening prayer. + +The flickering red light of the fires illumined the bronze faces +of the congregation, and as I stood before the front line of +devotees, I took off my cap in respect for their faith, and at +the close of their prayer I made my salaam to their venerable +Faky (priest); he returned the salutation with the cold dignity +of an Arab. In this part the coorbatch of the Turk was +unnecessary, and we shortly obtained supplies of milk. I ordered +the dragoman Mahomet to inform the Faky that I was a doctor, and +that I had the best medicines at the service of the sick, with +advice gratis. In a short time I had many applicants, to whom I +served out a quantity of Holloway's pills. These are most useful +to an explorer, as, possessing unmistakeable purgative +properties, they create an undeniable effect upon the patient, +which satisfies him of their value. They are also extremely +convenient, as they may be carried by the pound in a tin box, and +served out in infinitesimal doses from one to ten at a time, +according to the age of the patients. I had a large medicine +chest, with all necessary drugs, but I was sorely troubled by the +Arab women, many of whom were barren, who insisted upon my +supplying them with some medicine that would remove this stigma +and render them fruitful. It was in vain to deny them; I +therefore gave them usually a small dose of ipecacuanha, with the +comforting word to an Arab, "Inshallah," "if it please God." At +the same time I explained that the medicine was of little value. + +On the following morning, during the march, my wife had a renewal +of fever. We had already passed a large village named Abre, and +the country was a forest of small trees, which, being in leaf, +threw a delicious shade. Under a tree, upon a comfortable bed of +dry sand, we wer obliged to lay her for several hours, until the +paroxysm passed, and she could remount her dromedary. This she +did with extreme difficulty, and we hurried toward Cassala, from +which town we were only a few miles distant. + +For the last fifty or sixty miles we had seen the Cassala +mountain--at first a blue speck above the horizon. It now rose in +all the beauty of a smooth and bare block of granite, about 3,500 +feet above the level of the country with the town of Cassala at +the base, and the roaring torrent Gash flowing at our feet. When +we reached the end of the day's march, it was between 5 and 6 +P.M. The walled town was almost washed by the river, which was at +least 500 yards wide. However, our guides assured us that it was +fordable, although dangerous on account of the strength of the +current. Camels are most stupid and nervous animals in water; +that ridden by my wife was fortunately better than the +generality. I sent two Arabs with poles, ahead of my camel, and +carefully led the way. After considerable difficulty, we forded +the river safely; the water was nowhere above four feet deep, +and, in most places, it did not exceed three; but the great +rapidity of the stream would have rendered it impossible for the +me to cross without the assistance of poles. One of our camels +lost its footing, and was carried helplessly down the river for +some hundred yards, until it stranded upon a bank. + +The sun had sunk when we entered Cassala. It is a walled town, +surrounded by a ditch and flanking towers, and containing about +8,000 inhabitants, exclusive of troops. The houses and walls were +of unburnt brick, smeared with clay and cow-dung. As we rode +through the dusty streets, I sent off Mahomet with my firman to +the Mudir; and, not finding a suitable place inside the town, I +returned outside the walls, where I ordered the tents to be +pitched in a convenient spot among some wild fig-trees. Hardly +were the tents pitched than Mahomet returned, accompanied by an +officer and ten soldiers as a guard, with a polite message from +the Mudir or governor, who had, as usual, kissed the potent +firman, and raised it to his forehead, with the declaration that +he was "my servant, and that all that I required should be +immediately attended to." Shortly after, we were called upon by +several Greeks, one of whom was the army doctor, Signor Georgis, +who, with great kindness, offered to supply all our wants. My +wife was dreadfully weak and exhausted, therefore an undisturbed +night's rest was all that was required, with the independence of +our own tent. + +Cassala is rich in hyaenas, and the night was passed in the +discordant howling of these disgusting but useful animals: they +are the scavengers of the country, devouring every species of +filth, and clearing all carrion from the earth. Without the +hyaenas and vultures, the neighbourhood of a Nubian village would +be unbearable; it is the idle custom of the people to leave +unburied all animals that die. Thus, among the numerous flocks +and herds, the casualties would create a pestilence were it not +for the birds and beasts of prey. + +On the following morning the fever had yielded to quinine, and we +were enabled to receive a round of visits--the governor and +suite, Elias Bey, the doctor and a friend, and, lastly, Malem +Georgis, an elderly Greek merchant, who, with great hospitality, +insisted upon our quitting the sultry tent and sharing his own +roof. We therefore became his guests in a most comfortable house +for some days. Our Turk, Hadji Achmet, returned on his way to +Berber; we discharged our camels, and prepared - to start afresh +from this point for the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ROUTE FROM CASSALA TO SOUAKIM. + +BY dead reckoning, Cassala is ninety-three miles S.S.E. of +Gozerajup, or about 340 miles from Berber. We had ridden about +710 miles from Korosko, 630 miles of which had been through +scorching deserts during the hottest season. We were, therefore, +thankful to exchange the intense heat of the tent for a solid +roof, and to rest for a short time in the picturesque country of +Taka. + +The direct route to Cassala, the capital of Taka, should be from +Suez to Souakim, on the Red Sea, and from thence in sixteen days, +by camel. Thus, were there a line from Suez to Souakim by +steamers, similar to that already established to Jedda, Cassala +would be only twenty-two days' journey from Cairo. At present, +the arrival of steamers at Souakim is entirely uncertain; +therefore the trade of the country is paralysed by the apathy of +the Egyptian Government. The Abdul Azziz Company run their +steamers regularly from Suez to Jedda; and, although they +advertise Souakim as a port of call, there is no dependence to be +placed upon the announcement; therefore, all merchants are afraid +not only of delay, but of high warehouse charges at Souakim. The +latter port is only four days' steaming from Suez, and, being the +most central depot for all merchandise both to and from Upper +Egypt, it would become a point of great importance were regular +means of transport established. + +Cotton of excellent quality may be grown to an unlimited amount +in the provinces of Upper Egypt, and could be delivered at +Souakim at a trifling cost of transport. A large quantity of gum +arabic is collected throughout this country, which sells in +Cassala at 20 piastres (4s. 2d.) the cantar of 100 lbs. There are +three varieties, produced from various mimosas; the finest +quality is gathered in the province of Kordofan, but I +subsequently met with large quantities of this species in the +Base country. Senna grows wild in the deserts, but the low price +hardly pays for the cost of collection. There are several +varieties; that with extremely narrow and sharp-pointed leaves is +preferred. It grows in sandy situations where few plants would +exist. The bush seldom exceeds three feet in height, and is +generally below that standard; but it is exceedingly thick, and +rich in a pale green foliage, which is a strong temptation to the +hungry camel. Curiously, this purgative plant is the animal's +bonne bouche, and is considered most nourishing as fodder. + +The exports of the Soudan are limited to gum arabic, ivory, +hides, senna, and bees'-wax; the latter is the produce of +Abyssinia. These articles are generally collected by travelling +native traders, who sell to the larger merchants resident in +Cassala and Khartoum, the two principal towns of the Soudan. The +bazaar in Cassala was poor, as the principal articles were those +of low price, adapted to the wants of the Arabs, who flock to the +capital as a small London, to make their purchases of cloths, +perfumery for the women, copper cooking pots, &c. + +The fortifications of the town, although useless against cannon, +are considered by the Arabs as impregnable. The walls are of +solid mud and sun-baked bricks, carefully loopholed for musketry, +while a deep fosse, by which it is surrounded, is a safeguard +against a sudden surprise. + +These engineering precautions were rendered necessary by the +ferocity of the Arabs, who fought the Egyptians with great +determination for some years before they were finally subdued. +Although the weapons of all the Arab tribes are the simple sword +and lance, they defended their country against the regular troops +of Egypt until they were completely defeated by a scarcity of +water, against which there could be no resistance. The Egyptians +turned the course of the river Gash, and entirely shut off the +supply from one portion of the country, while they inundated +another. This was effected by an immense dam, formed of the stems +of the dome palms, as a double row of piles, while the interior +was rendered water-tight by a lining of matting filled up with +sand. + +Cassala was built about twenty years before I visited the +country, after Taka had been conquered and annexed to Egypt. The +general annexation of the Soudan and the submission of the +numerous Arab tribes to the Viceroy have been the first steps +necessary to the improvement of the country. Although the +Egyptians are hard masters, and do not trouble themselves about +the future well-being of the conquered races, it must be +remembered that, prior to the annexation, all the tribes were at +war among themselves. There was neither government nor law; thus +the whole country was closed to Europeans. At present, there is +no more danger in travelling in Upper Egypt than in crossing Hyde +Park after dark, provided the traveller be just and courteous. At +the time of my visit to Cassala in 1861, the Arab tribes were +separately governed by their own chiefs or sheiks, who were +responsible to the Egyptian authorities for the taxes due from +their people: since that period, the entire tribes of all +denominations have been placed under the authority of that grand +old Arab patriarch Achmet Abou Sinn, to be hereafter mentioned. +The Sheik Moosa, of the Hadendowa tribe, was in prison during our +stay in that country, for some breach of discipline in his +dealings with the Egyptian Government. The iron hand of despotism +has produced a marvellous change among the Arabs, who are +rendered utterly powerless by the system of government adopted by +the Egyptians; unfortunately, this harsh system has the effect of +paralysing all industry. + +The principal object of Turks and Egyptians in annexation, is to +increase their power of taxation by gaining an additional number +of subjects. Thus, although many advantages have accrued to the +Arab provinces of Nubia through Egyptian rule, there exists an +amount of mistrust between the governed and the governing. Not +only are the camels, cattle, and sheep subjected to a tax, but +every attempt at cultivation is thwarted by the authorities, who +impose a fine or tax upon the superficia1 area of the cultivated +land. Thus, no one will cultivate more than is absolutely +necessary, as he dreads the difficulties that the broad acres of +waving crops would entail upon his family. The bona fide tax is +a bagatelle to the amounts squeezed from him by the extortionate +soldiery, who are the agents employed by the sheik; these must +have their share of the plunder, in excess of the amount to be +delivered to their employer; he, also, must have his plunder +before he parts with the bags of dollars to the governor of the +province. Thus the unfortunate cultivator is ground down; should +he refuse to pay the necessary "baksheesh" or present to the +tax-collectors, some false charge is trumped up against him, and +he is thrown into prison. As a green field is an attraction to a +flight of locusts in their desolating voyage, so is a luxuriant +farm in the Soudan a point for the tax-collectors of Upper Egypt. +I have frequently ridden several days' journey through a +succession of empty villages, deserted by the inhabitants upon +the report of the soldiers' approach; the women and children, +goats and cattle, camels and asses, have all been removed into +the wilderness for refuge, while their crops of corn have been +left standing for the plunderers, who would be too idle to reap +and thrash the grain. + +Notwithstanding the misrule that fetters the steps of +improvement, Nature has bestowed such great capabilities of +production in the fertile soil of this country, that the yield of +a small surface is more than sufficient for the requirements of +the population, and actual poverty is unknown. The average price +of dhurra is fifteen piastres per "rachel," or about 3s. 2d. for +500 lbs. upon the spot where it is grown. The dhurra (Sorghum +andropogon) is the grain most commonly used throughout the +Soudan; there are great varieties of this plant, of which the +most common are the white and the red. The land is not only +favoured by Nature by its fertility, but the intense heat of the +summer is the labourer's great assistant. As before described, +all vegetation entirely disappears in the glaring Sun, or becomes +so dry that it is swept off by fire; thus the soil is perfectly +clean and fit for immediate cultivation upon the arrival of the +rains. The tool generally used is similar to the Dutch hoe. With +this simple implement the surface is scratched to the depth of +about two inches, and the seeds of the dhurra are dibbled in +about three feet apart, in rows from four to five feet in width. +Two seeds are dropped into each hole. A few days after the first +shower they rise above the ground, and when about six inches +high, the whole population turn out of their villages at break of +day to weed the dhurra fields. Sown in July, it is harvested in +February and March. Eight months are thus required for the +cultivation of this cereal in the intense heat of Nubia. For the +first three months the growth is extremely rapid, and the stem +attains a height of six or seven feet. When at perfection on the +rich soil of the Taka country, the plant averages a height of ten +feet, the circumference of the stem being about four inches. The +crown is a feather very similar to that of the sugar cane; the +blossom falls, and the feather becomes a head of dhurra, weighing +about two pounds. Each grain is about the size of hemp-seed. +I took the trouble of counting the corns contained in an +average-sized head, the result being 4,848. The process of +harvesting and thrashing are remarkably simple, as the heads are +simply detached from the straw and beaten out in piles. The dried +straw is a substitute for sticks in forming the walls of the +village huts; these are plastered with clay and cow-dung, which +form the Arab's lath and plaster. + +The millers' work is exclusively the province of the women. There +are no circular hand-mills, as among Oriental nations; but the +corn is ground upon a simple flat stone, of either gneiss or +granite, about two feet in length by fourteen inches in width. +The face of this is roughened by beating with a sharp-pointed +piece of harder stone, such as quartz, or hornblende, and the +grain is reduced to flour by great labour and repeated grinding +or rubbing with a stone rolling-pin. The flour is mixed with +water and allowed to ferment; it is then made into thin pancakes +upon an earthenware flat portable hearth. This species of +leavened bread is known to the Arabs as the kisra. It is not very +palatable, but it is extremely well suited to Arab cookery, as it +can be rolled up like a pancake and dipped in the general dish of +meat and gravy very conveniently, in the absence of spoons and +forks. No man will condescend to grind the corn, and even the +Arab women have such an objection to this labour, that one of the +conditions of matrimony enforced upon the husband, if possible, +provides the wife with a slave woman to prepare the flour. + +Hitherto we had a large stock of biscuits, but as our dragoman +Mahomet had, in a curious fit of amiability, dispensed them among +the camel-drivers, we were now reduced to the Arab kisras. +Although not as palatable as wheaten bread, the flour of dhurra +is exceedingly nourishing, containing, according to Professor +Johnston's analysis, eleven and a half per cent. of gluten, or +one and a half per cent. more than English wheaten flour. Thus +men and beasts thrive, especially horses, which acquire an +excellent condition. + +The neighbourhood of Cassala is well adapted for the presence of +a large town and military station, as the fertile soil produces +the necessary supplies, while the river Gash affords excellent +water. In the rainy season this should be filtered, as it brings +down many impurities from the torrents of Abyssinia, but in the +heat of summer the river is entirely dry, and clear and wholesome +water is procured from wells in the sandy bed. The south and +south-east of Cassala is wild and mountainous, affording +excellent localities for hill stations during the unhealthy rainy +season; but such sanitary arrangements for the preservation of +troops are about as much heeded by the Egyptian Government as by +our own, and regiments are left in unwholesome climates to take +their chance, although the means of safety are at hand. + +The Taka country being the extreme frontier of Egypt, constant +raids are made by the Egyptians upon their neighbours--the +hostile Base, through which country the river Gash or Mareb +descends. I was anxious to procure all the information possible +concerning the Base, as it would be necessary to traverse the +greater portion in exploring the Settite river, which is the +principal tributary of the Atbara, and which is in fact the main +and parent stream, although bearing a different name. I heard but +one opinion of the Base--it was a wild and independent country, +inhabited by a ferocious race, whose hand was against every man, +and who in return were the enemies of all by whom they were +surrounded--Egyptians, Abyssinians, Arabs, and Mek Nimmur; +nevertheless, secure in their mountainous stronghold, they defied +all adversaries. The Base is a portion of Abyssinia, but the +origin of the tribe that occupies this ineradicable hornet's nest +is unknown. Whether they are the remnant of the original +Ethiopians, who possessed the country prior to the conquests of +the Abyssinians, or whether they are descended from the +woolly-haired tribes of the south banks of the Blue Nile, is +equally a mystery; all we know is that they are of the same type +as the inhabitants of Fazogle, of the upper portion of the Blue +River; they are exceedingly black, with woolly hair, resembling +in that respect the negro, but without the flat nose or +prognathous jaw. No quarter is given on either side, should the +Base meet the Arabs, with whom war is to the knife. In spite of +the overwhelming superiority of their adversaries, the Base +cannot be positively subdued; armed with the lance as their only +weapon, but depending upon extreme agility and the natural +difficulties of their mountain passes, the attack of the Base is +always by stealth; their spies are ever prowling about unseen +like the leopard, and their onset is invariably a surprise; +success or defeat are alike followed by a rapid retreat to their +mountains. + +As there is nothing to be obtained by the plunder of the Base but +women and children as slaves, the country is generally avoided, +unless visited for the express purpose of a slave razzia. +Cultivation being extremely limited, the greater portion of the +country is perfectly wild, and is never visited even by the Base +themselves unless for the purpose of hunting. Several beautiful +rivers descend from the mountain ranges, which ultimately flow +into the Atbara; these, unlike the latter river, are never dry: +thus, with a constant supply of water, in a country of forest and +herbage, the Base abounds in elephants, rhinoceroses, +hippopotami, giraffes, buffaloes, lions, leopards, and great +numbers of the antelope tribe. + +Cassala, thus situated on the confines of the Taka country, is an +important military point in the event of war between Egypt and +Abyssinia, as the Base would be invaluable as allies to the +Egyptians; their country commands the very heart of Abyssinia, +and their knowledge of the roads would be an incalculable +advantage to an invading force. On the 14th July I had concluded +my arrangements for the start; there had been some difficulty in +procuring camels, but the all-powerful firman was a never-failing +talisman, and, as the Arabs had declined to let their animals for +hire, the Governor despatched a number of soldiers and seized the +required number, including their owners. I engaged two wild young +Arabs of eighteen and twenty years of age, named Bacheet and Wat +Gamma: the latter being interpreted signifies "Son of the Moon." +This in no way suggests lunacy, but the young Arab had happened +to enter this world on the day of the new moon, which was +considered to be a particularly fortunate and brilliant omen at +his birth. Whether the climax of his good fortune had arrived at +the moment he entered my service I know not, but, if so, there +was a cloud over his happiness in his subjection to Mahomet the +dragoman, who rejoiced in the opportunity of bullying the two +inferiors. Wat Gamma was a quiet, steady, well-conducted lad, who +bore oppression mildly; but the younger, Bacheet, was a fiery, +wild young Arab, who, although an excellent boy in his peculiar +way, was almost incapable of being tamed and domesticated. I at +once perceived that Mahomet would have a determined rebel to +control, which I confess I did not regret. Wages were not high in +this part of the world,--the lads were engaged at one and a half +dollar per month and their keep. Mahomet, who was a great man, +suffered from the same complaint to which great men are (in those +countries) particularly subject: wherever he went, he was +attacked with claimants of relationship; he was overwhelmed with +professions of friendship from people who claimed to be +connexions of some of his family; in fact, if all the +ramifications of his race were correctly represented by the +claimants of relationship, Mahomet's family tree would have +shaded the Nubian desert. + +We all have our foibles: the strongest fort has its feeble point, +as the chain snaps at its weakest link;--family pride was +Mahomet's weak link. This was his tender point; and Mahomet, the +great and the imperious, yielded to the gentle scratching of his +ear if a stranger claimed connexion with his ancient lineage. Of +course he had no family, with the exception of his wife and two +children, whom he had left in Cairo. The lady whom he had +honoured by an admission to the domestic circle of the Mahomets +was suffering from a broken arm when we started from Egypt, as +she had cooked the dinner badly, and the "gaddah," or large +wooden bowl, had been thrown at her by the naturally indignant +husband, precisely as he had thrown the axe at one man and the +basin at another, while in our service: these were little +contretemps that could hardly disturb the dignity of so great a +man. Mahomet met several relations at Cassala: one borrowed money +of him; another stole his pipe; the third, who declared that +nothing should separate them now that "by the blessing of God" +they had met, determined to accompany him through all the +difficulties of our expedition, provided that Mahomet would only +permit him to serve for love, without wages. I gave Mahomet some +little advice upon this point, reminding him that, although the +clothes of the party were only worth a few piastres, the spoons +and forks were silver, therefore I should hold him responsible +for the honesty of his friend. This reflection upon the family +gave great offence, and he assured me that Achmet, our quondam +acquaintance, was so near a relation that he was--I assisted him +in the genealogical distinction: "Mother's brother's cousin's +sister's mother's son? Eh, Mahomet?" "Yes, sar, that's it!" "Very +well, Mahomet; mind he don't steal the spoons, and thrash him if +he doesn't do his work!" "Yes, sar," replied Mahomet; "he all +same like one brother, he one good man will do his business +quietly; if not, master lick him." The new relation not +understanding English, was perfectly satisfied with the success +of his introduction, and from that moment he became one of the +party. One more addition, and our arrangements were completed:-- +the Governor of Cassala was determined that we should not +start without a representative of the Government, in the shape of +a soldier guide; he accordingly gave us a black man, a corporal +in one of the Nubian regiments, who was so renowned as a +sportsman that he went by the name of "El Baggar" (the cow), on +account of his having killed several of the oryx antelope, known +as "El Baggar et Wahash" (the cow of the desert). + +The rains had fairly commenced, as a heavy thunder-shower +generally fell at about 2 P.M. On the 15th, the entire day was +passed in transporting our baggage across the river Gash to the +point from which we had started upon our arrival at Cassala: this +we accomplished with much difficulty, with the assistance of +about a hundred men supplied by the Governor, from whom we had +received much attention and politeness. We camped for the night +upon the margin of the river, and marched on the following +morning at daybreak due west towards the Atbara. + +The country was a great improvement upon that we had hitherto +passed; the trees were larger, and vast plains of young grass, +interspersed with green bush, stretched to the horizon. The soil +was an exceedingly rich loam, most tenacious when wetted: far as +the eye could reach to the north and west of Cassala was the dead +level plain, while to the south and east arose a broken chain of +mountains. + +We had not proceeded many miles, when the numerous tracks of +antelopes upon the soil, moistened by the shower of yesterday, +proved that we had arrived in a sporting country; shortly after, +we saw a herd of about fifty ariels (Gazelle Dama). To stalk +these wary antelopes I was obliged to separate from my party, who +continued on their direct route. Riding upon my camel, I tried +every conceivable dodge without success. I could not approach +them nearer than about 300 yards. They did not gallop off at +once, but made a rush for a few hundred paces, and then faced +about to gaze at the approaching camel. After having exhausted my +patience to no purpose, I tried another plan: instead of +advancing against the wind as before, I made a great circuit and +gave them the wind. No sooner was I in good cover behind a mimosa +bush than I dismounted from my camel, and, leading it until +within view of the shy herd, I tied it to a tree, keeping behind +the animal so as to be well concealed. I succeeded in retreating +through the bushes unobserved, leaving the camel as a gazing +point to attract their attention. Running at my best speed to the +same point from which I had commenced my circuit, and keeping +under cover of the scattered bushes, I thus obtained the correct +wind, and stalked up from bush to bush behind the herd, who were +curiously watching the tied camel, that was quietly gazing on a +mimosa. In this way I had succeeded in getting within 150 yards +of the beautiful herd, when a sudden fright seized them, and they +rushed off in an opposite direction to the camel, so as to pass +about 120 yards on my left; as they came by in full speed, I +singled out a superb animal, and tried the first barrel of the +little Fletcher rifle. I heard the crack of the ball, and almost +immediately afterwards the herd passed on, leaving one lagging +behind at a slow canter; this was my wounded ariel, who shortly +halted, and laid down in an open glade. Having no dog, I took the +greatest precaution in stalking, as a wounded antelope is almost +certain to escape if once disturbed when it has lain down. There +was a small withered stem of a tree not thicker than a man's +thigh; this grew within thirty yards of the antelope; my only +chance of approach was to take a line direct for this slight +object of cover. The wind was favourable, and I crept along the +ground. I had succeeded in arriving within a few yards of the +tree when up jumped the antelope, and bounded off as though +unhurt; but there was no chance for it at this distance, and I +rolled it over with a shot through the spine. + +Having done the needful with my beautiful prize, and extracted +the interior, I returned for my camel that had well assisted in +the stalk. Hardly had I led the animal to the body of the ariel, +when I heard a rushing sound like a strong wind, and down came a +vulture with its wings collapsed, falling from an immense height +direct to its prey, in its eagerness to be the first in the race. +By the time that I had fastened the ariel across the back of the +camel, many vultures were sitting upon the ground at a few yards' +distance, while others were arriving every minute: before I had +shot the ariel, not a vulture had been in sight; the instant that +I retreated from the spot a flock of ravenous beaks were tearing +at the offal. + +In the constant doubling necessary during the stalk I had quite +lost my way. The level plain to the horizon, covered with +scattered mimosas, offered no object as a guide. I was +exceedingly thirsty, as the heat was intense, and I had been +taking rapid exercise; unfortunately my water-skin was slung upon +my wife's camel. However unpleasant the situation, my pocket +compass would give me the direction, as we had been steering due +west; therefore, as I had turned to my left when I left my party, +a course N.W. should bring me across their tracks, if they had +continued on their route. The position of the Cassala mountain +agreed with this course; therefore, remounting my dromedary, with +the ariel slung behind the saddle, I hastened to rejoin our +caravan. After about half an hour I heard a shot fired not far in +advance, and I shortly joined the party, who had fired a gun to +give me the direction. A long and deep pull at the water-skin was +the first salutation. + +We halted that night near a small pond formed by the recent heavy +rain. Fortunately the sky was clear; there was abundance of fuel, +and pots were shortly boiling an excellent stew of ariel venison +and burnt onions. The latter delicious bulbs are the blessing of +Upper Egypt: I have lived for days upon nothing but raw onions +and sun-dried rusks. Nothing is so good a substitute for meat as +an onion; but if raw, it should be cut into thin slices, and +allowed to soak for half an hour in water, which should be poured +off: the onion thus loses its pungency, and becomes mild and +agreeable; with the accompaniment of a little oil and vinegar it +forms an excellent salad. + +The following day's march led us through the same dead level of +grassy plains and mimosas, enlivened with numerous herds of +ariels and large black-striped gazelles (Dorcas), one of which I +succeeded in shooting for my people. After nine hours' journey we +arrived at the, valley of the Atbara, in all sixteen hours' +actual marching from Cassala. + +There was an extraordinary change in the appearance of the river +between Gozerajup and this spot. There was no longer the vast +sandy desert with the river flowing through its sterile course on +a level with the surface of the country, but after traversing an +apparently perfect flat of forty-five miles of rich alluvial +soil, we had suddenly arrived upon the edge of a deep valley, +between five and six miles wide, at the bottom of which, about +200 feet below the general level of the country, flowed the river +Atbara. On the opposite side of the valley, the same vast table +lands continued to the western horizon. + +We commenced the descent towards the river; the valley was a +succession of gullies and ravines, of landslips and watercourses; +the entire hollow, of miles in width, had evidently been the work +of the river. How many ages had the rains and the stream been at +work to scoop out from the flat table land this deep and broad +valley? Here was the giant labourer that had shovelled the rich +loam upon the delta of Lower Egypt! Upon these vast flats of +fertile soil there can be no drainage except through soakage. The +deep valley is therefore the receptacle not only for the water +that oozes from its sides, but subterranean channels, bursting as +land-springs from all parts of the walls of the valley, wash down +the more soluble portions of earth, and continually waste away +the soil. Landslips occur daily during the rainy season; streams +of rich mud pour down the valley's slopes, and as the river flows +beneath in a swollen torrent, the friable banks topple down into +the stream and dissolve. The Atbara becomes the thickness of +pea-soup, as its muddy waters steadily perform the duty they have +fulfilled from age to age. Thus was the great river at work upon +our arrival on its bank at the bottom of the valley. The Arab +name, "Bahr el Aswat" (black river) was well bestowed; it was the +black mother of Egypt, still carrying to her offspring the +nourishment that had first formed the Delta. + +At this point of interest, the journey had commenced; the deserts +were passed, all was fertility and life: wherever the sources of +the Nile might be, the Atbara was the parent of Egypt! This was +my first impression, to be proved hereafter. + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE STORM. + +A VIOLENT thunderstorm, with a deluge of rain, broke upon our +camp upon the banks of the Atbara, fortunately just after the +tents were pitched. We thus had an example of the extraordinary +effects of the heavy rain in tearing away the soil of the valley. +Trifling watercourses were swollen to torrents; banks of earth +became loosened and fell in, and the rush of mud and water upon +all sides swept forward into the river with a rapidity which +threatened the destruction of the country, could such a tempest +endure for a few days. In a couple of hours all was over. The +river was narrower than in its passage through the desert, but +was proportionately deeper. The name of the village on the +opposite bank was Goorashee, with which a means of communication +had been established by a ferry-boat belonging to our friend and +late host, Malem Georgis, the Greek merchant of Cassala. He had +much trouble in obtaining permission from the authorities to +introduce this novelty, which was looked upon as an innovation, +as such a convenience had never before existed. The enterprising +proprietor had likewise established a cotton farm at Goorashee, +which appeared to succeed admirably, and was an undeniable +example of what could be produced in this fertile country were +the spirit of improvement awakened. Notwithstanding the advantage +of the ferry-boat, many of the Arabs preferred to swim their +camels across the river to paying a trifle to the ferryman. A +camel either cannot or will not swim unless it is supported by +inflated skins: thus the passage of the broad river Atbara (at +this spot about 300 yards wide) is an affair of great difficulty. +Two water-skins are inflated, and attached to the camel by a band +passed like a girth beneath the belly. Thus arranged, a man sits +upon its back, while one or two swim by the side as guides. The +current of the Atbara runs at a rapid rate; thus the camel is +generally carried at least half a mile down the river before it +can gain the opposite bank. A few days before our arrival, a man +had been snatched from the back of his camel while crossing, and +was carried off by a crocodile. Another man had been taken during +the last week while swimming the river upon a log. It was +supposed that these accidents were due to the same crocodile, who +was accustomed to bask upon a mud bank at the foot of the cotton +plantation. On the day following our arrival at the Atbara, we +found that our camel-drivers had absconded during the night with +their camels; these were the men who had been forced to serve by +the Governor of Cassala. There was no possibility of proceeding +for some days, therefore I sent El Baggar across the river to +endeavour to engage camels, while I devoted myself to a search +for the crocodile. I shortly discovered that it was unfair in the +extreme to charge one particular animal with the death of the two +Arabs, as several large crocodiles were lying upon the mud in +various places. A smaller one was lying asleep high and dry upon +the bank; the wind was blowing strong, so that, by carefully +approaching, I secured a good shot within thirty yards, and +killed it on the spot by a bullet through the head, placed about +an inch above the eyes. + +After some time, the large crocodiles, who had taken to the water +at the report of the gun, again appeared, and crawled slowly out +of the muddy river to their basking-places upon the bank. A +crocodile usually sleeps with its mouth wide open; I therefore +waited until the immense jaws of the nearest were well expanded, +showing a grand row of glittering teeth, when I crept carefully +towards it through the garden of thickly-planted cotton. Bacheet +and Wat Gamma followed in great eagerness. In a short time I +arrived within about forty yards of the beast, as it lay upon a +flat mud bank formed by one of the numerous torrents that had +carried down the soil during the storm of yesterday. The cover +ceased, and it was impossible to approach nearer without alarming +the crocodile; it was a fine specimen, apparently nineteen or +twenty feet in length, and I took a steady shot with the little +Fletcher rifle at the temple, exactly in front of the point of +union of the head with the spine. The jaws clashed together, and +a convulsive start followed by a twitching of the tail led me to +suppose that sudden death had succeeded the shot; but, knowing +the peculiar tenacity of life possessed by the crocodile, I fired +another shot at the shoulder, as the huge body lay so close to +the river's edge that the slightest struggle would cause it to +disappear. To my surprise, this shot, far from producing a +quietus, gave rise to a series of extraordinary convulsive +struggles. One moment it rolled upon its back, lashed out right +and left with its tail, and ended by toppling over into the +river. + +This was too much for the excitable Bacheet, who, followed by his +friend, Wat Gamma, with more courage than discretion, rushed into +the river, and endeavoured to catch the crocodile by the tail. +Before I had time to call them back, these two Arab water-dogs +were up to their necks in the river, screaming out directions to +each other while they were feeling for the body of the monster +with their feet. At length I succeeded in calling them to shore, +and we almost immediately saw the body of the crocodile appear +belly upwards, about fifty yards down the stream; the forepaws +were above the water, but, after rolling round several times, it +once more disappeared, rapidly carried away by the muddy torrent. +This was quite enough for the Arabs, who had been watching the +event from the opposite bank of the river, and the report quickly +spread that two crocodiles were killed, one of which they +declared to be the public enemy that had taken the men at the +ferry, but upon what evidence I cannot understand. Although my +Arabs looked forward to a dinner of crocodile flesh, I was +obliged to search for something of rather milder flavour for +ourselves. I waited for about an hour while the first crocodile +was being divided, when I took a shot gun and succeeded in +killing three geese and a species of antelope no larger than a +hare, known by the Arabs as the Dik-dik (Nanotragus +Hemprichianus). This little creature inhabits thick bush. Since +my return to England, I have seen a good specimen in the +Zoological Gardens of the Regent's Park. + +Upon my arrival at the tents, I found the camp redolent of musk +from the flesh of the crocodile, and the people were quarrelling +for the musk glands, which they had extracted, and which are much +prized by the Arab women, who wear them strung like beads upon a +necklace. + +A crocodile possesses four of such glands; they vary in size +according to the age of the reptile, but they are generally about +as large as a hazel-nut, when dried. Two glands are situated in +the groin, and two in the throat, a little in advance of the +fore-legs. I have noticed two species of crocodiles throughout +all the rivers of Abyssinia, and in the White Nile. One of these +is of a dark brown colour, and much shorter and thicker in +proportion than the other, which grows to an immense length, an +is generally of a pale greenish yellow. Throughout the Atbara, +crocodiles are extremely mischievous and bold; this can be +accounted for by the constant presence of Arabs and their flocks, +which the crocodiles have ceased to fear, as they exact a heavy +tribute in their frequent passages of the river. The Arabs assert +that the dark-coloured, thick-bodied species is more to be +dreaded than the other. + +The common belief that the scales of the crocodile will stop a +bullet is very erroneous. If a rifle is loaded with the moderate +charge of two and a half drachms it will throw an ounce ball +through the scales of the hardest portion of the back; but were +the scales struck obliquely, the bullet might possibly glance +from the surface, as in like manner it would ricochet from the +surface of water. The crocodile is so difficult to kill outright, +that people are apt to imagine that the scales have resisted +their bullets. The only shots that will produce instant death are +those that strike the brain or the spine through the neck. A shot +through the shoulder is fatal; but as the body immediately sinks, +and does not reappear upon the surface until the gases have +distended the carcase, the game is generally carried away by the +stream before it has had time to float. The body of a crocodile +requires from twelve to eighteen hours before it will rise to the +surface, while that of the hippopotamus will never remain longer +than two hours beneath the water, and will generally rise in an +hour and a half after death. This difference in time depends upon +the depth and temperature; in deep holes of the river of from +thirty to fifty feet, the water is much cooler near the bottom, +thus the gas is not generated in the body so quickly as in +shallow and warmer water. The crocodile is not a grass-feeder, +therefore the stomach is comparatively small, and the contents do +not generate the amount of gas that so quickly distends the huge +stomach of the hippopotamus; thus the body of the former requires +a longer period before it will rise to the surface. + +In the evening we crossed with our baggage and people to the +opposite side of the river, and pitched our tents at the village +of Goorashee. A small watercourse had brought down a large +quantity of black sand. Thinking it probable that gold might +exist in the same locality, I washed some earth in a copper +basin, and quickly discovered a few specks of the precious metal. +Gold is found in small quantities in the sand of the Atbara; at +Fazogle, on the Blue Nile, there are mines of this metal worked +by the Egyptian Govermnent. From my subsequent experience I have +no doubt that valuable minerals exist in large quantities +throughout the lofty chain of Abyssinian mountains from which +these rivers derive their sources. + +The camels arrived, and once more we were ready to start. Our +factotum, El Baggar, had collected a number of both +baggage-camels and riding dromedaries or "hygeens;" the latter he +had brought for approval, as we had suffered much from the +extreme roughness of our late camels. There is the same +difference between a good hygeen or dromedary and a baggage-camel +as between the thoroughbred and the cart-horse; and it appears +absurd in the eyes of the Arabs that a man of any position should +ride a baggage-camel. Apart from all ideas of etiquette, the +motion of the latter animal is quite sufficient warning. Of all +species of fatigue, the back-breaking monotonous swing of a heavy +camel is the worst; and, should the rider lose patience, and +administer a sharp cut with the coorbatch that induces the +creature to break into a trot, the torture of the rack is a +pleasant tickling compared to the sensation of having your spine +driven by a sledge-hammer from below, half a foot deeper into the +skull. The human frame may be inured to almost anything; thus the +Arabs, who have always been accustomed to this kind of exercise, +hardly feel the motion, and the portion of the body most subject +to pain in riding a rough camel upon two bare pieces of wood for +a saddle, becomes naturally adapted for such rough service, as +monkeys become hardened from constantly sitting upon rough +substances. The children commence almost as soon as they are +born, as they must accompany their mothers in their annual +migrations; and no sooner can the young Arab sit astride and hold +on, than he is placed behind his father's saddle, to which he +clings, while he bumps upon the bare back of the jolting camel. +Nature quickly arranges a horny protection to the nerves, by the +thickening of the skin; thus, an Arab's opinion of the action of +a riding hygeen should never be accepted without a personal +trial. What appears delightful to him may be torture to you, as +a strong breeze and a rough sea may be charming to a sailor, but +worse than death to a landsman. + +I was determined not to accept the camels now offered as hygeens +until I had seen them tried; I accordingly ordered our black +soldier El Baggar to saddle the most easy-actioned animal for my +wife, but I wished to see him put it through a variety of paces +before she should accept it. The delighted El Baggar, who from +long practice was as hard as the heel of a boot, disdained +a saddle; the animal knelt, was mounted, and off he started at +full trot, performing a circle of about fifty yards' diameter as +though in a circus. I never saw such an exhibition! "Warranted +quiet to ride, of easy action, and fit for a lady!" This had been +the character received with the rampant brute, who now, with head +and tail erect, went tearing round the circle, screaming and +roaring like a wild beast, throwing his fore-legs forward, and +stepping at least three feet high in his trot. Where was El +Baggar? A disjointed-looking black figure was sometimes on the +back of this easy-going camel, sometimes a foot high in the air; +arms, head, legs, hands appeared like a confused mass of +dislocations; the woolly hair of this unearthly individual, that +had been carefully trained in long stiff narrow curls, precisely +similar to the tobacco known as "negro-head," alternately started +upright en masse, as though under the influence of electricity, +and then fell as suddenly upon his shoulders: had the dark +individual been a "black dose," he or it could not have been more +thoroughly shaken. This object, so thoroughly disguised by +rapidity of movement, was El Baggar; happy, delighted El Baggar! +As he came rapidly round towards us flourishing his coorbatch, I +called to him, "Is that a nice hygeen for the Sit (lady), El +Baggar? is it VERY easy?" He was almost incapable of a reply. +"V-e-r-y e-e-a-a-s-y," replied the trustworthy authority, +"j-j-j-just the thin-n-n-g for the S-i-i-i-t-t-t." "All right, +that will do," I answered, and the jockey pulled up his steed. +"Are the other camels better or worse than that?" I asked. "Much +worse," replied El Baggar; "the others are rather rough, but this +is an easy-goer, and will suit the lady well." + +It was impossible to hire a good hygeen; an Arab prizes his +riding animal too much, and invariably refuses to let it to a +stranger, but generally imposes upon him by substituting some +lightly-built camel, that he thinks will pass muster. I +accordingly chose for my wife a steady-going animal from among +the baggage-camels, trusting to be able to obtain a hygeen from +the great sheik Abou Sinn, who was encamped upon the road we were +about to take along the valley of the Atbara; we arranged to +leave Goorashee on the following day. + +Upon arriving at the highest point of the valley, we found +ourselves on the vast table land that stretches from the Atbara +to the Nile. At this season the entire surface had a faint tint +of green, as the young shoots of grass had replied to the late +showers of rain; so perfect a level was this great tract of +fertile country, that within a mile of the valley of the Atbara +there was neither furrow nor watercourse, but the escape of the +rainfall was by simple soakage. As usual, the land was dotted +with mimosas, all of which were now bursting into leaf. The +thorns of the different varieties of these trees are an +extraordinary freak of Nature, as she appears to have exhausted +all her art in producing an apparently useless arrangement of +defence. The mimosas that are most common in the Soudan provinces +are mere bushes, seldom exceeding six feet in height; these +spread out towards the top like mushrooms, but the branches +commence within two feet of the ground; they are armed with +thorns in the shape of fish-hooks, which they resemble in +sharpness and strength. A thick jungle composed of such bushes is +perfectly impenetrable to any animals but elephants, +rhinoceroses, and buffaloes; and should the clothes of a man +become entangled in such thorns, either they must give way, or he +must remain a prisoner. The mimosa that is known among the Arabs +as the Kittar is one of the worst species, and is probably +similar to that which caught Absalom by the hair; this differs +from the well-known "Wait-a-bit" of South Africa, as no milder +nickname could be applied than "Dead-stop." Were the clothes of +strong material, it would be perfectly impossible to break +through a kittar-bush. + +A magnificent specimen of a kittar, with a wide-spreading head in +the young glory of green leaf, tempted my hungry camel during our +march; it was determined to procure a mouthful, and I was equally +determined that it should keep to the straight path, and avoid +the attraction of the green food. After some strong remonstrance +upon my part, the perverse beast shook its ugly head, gave a +roar, and started off in full trot straight at the thorny bush. +I had not the slightest control over the animal, and in a few +seconds it charged the bush with the mad intention of rushing +either through or beneath it. To my disgust I perceived that the +wide-spreading branches were only just sufficiently high to +permit the back of the camel to pass underneath. There was no +time for further consideration; we charged the bush; I held my +head doubled up between my arms, and the next moment I was on my +back, half stunned by the fall. The camel-saddle lay upon the +ground; my rifle, that had been slung behind, my coffee-pot, the +water-skin burst, and a host of other impedimenta, lay around me +in all directions; worst of all, my beautiful gold repeater lay +at some distance from me, rendered entirely useless. I was as +nearly naked as I could be; a few rags held together, but my +shirt was gone, with the exception of some shreds that adhered to +my arms. I was, of course, streaming with blood, and looked much +more as though I had been clawed by a leopard than as having +simply charged a bush. The camel had fallen down with the shock +after I had been swept off by the thorny branches. To this day I +have the marks of the scratching. + +Unless a riding-camel is perfectly trained, it is the most +tiresome animal to ride after the first green leaves appear; +every bush tempts it from the path, and it is a perpetual fight +between the rider and his beast throughout the journey. + +We shortly halted for the night, as I had noticed unmistakeable +signs of an approaching storm. We quickly pitched the tents, +grubbed up the root and stem of a decayed mimosa, and lighted a +fire, by the side of which our people sat in a circle. Hardly had +the pile begun to blaze, when a cry from Mahomet's new relative, +Achmet, informed us that he had been bitten by a scorpion. +Mahomet appeared to think this highly entertaining, until +suddenly he screamed out likewise, and springing from the ground, +he began to stamp and wring his hands in great agony: he had +himself been bitten, and we found that a whole nest of scorpions +were in the rotten wood lately thrown upon the fire; in their +flight from the heat they stung all whom they met. There was no +time to prepare food; the thunder already roared above us, and in +a few minutes the sky, lately so clear, was as black as ink. I +had already prepared for the storm, and the baggage was piled +within the tent; the ropes of the tents had been left slack to +allow for the contraction, and we were ready for the rain. It was +fortunate that we were in order; a rain descended, with an +accompaniment of thunder and lightning, of a volume unknown to +the inhabitants of cooler climates; for several hours there was +almost an uninterrupted roar of the most deafening peals, with +lightning so vivid that our tent was completely lighted up in the +darkness of the night, and its misery displayed. Not only was the +rain pouring through the roof so that we were wet through as we +crouched upon our angareps (stretchers), but the legs of our +bedstead stood in more than six inches of water. Being as wet as +I could be, I resolved to enjoy the scene outside the tent; it +was curious in the extreme. Flash after flash of sharp forked +lightning played upon the surface of a boundless lake; there was +not a foot of land visible, but the numerous dark bushes +projecting from the surface of the water destroyed the illusion +of depth that the scene would otherwise have suggested. The rain +ceased, but the entire country was flooded several inches deep; +and when the more distant lightning flashed as the storm rolled +away, I saw the camels lying like statues built into the lake. On +the following morning the whole of this great mass of water had +been absorbed by the soil, which had become so adhesive and +slippery that it was impossible for the camels to move; we +therefore waited for some hours, until the intense heat of the +sun had dried the surface sufficiently to allow the animals to +proceed. + +Upon striking the tent, we found beneath the valance between the +crown and the walls a regiment of scorpions; the flood had +doubtless destroyed great numbers within their holes, but these, +having been disturbed by the deluge, had found an asylum by +crawling up the tent walls: with great difficulty we lighted a +fire, and committed them all to the flames. Mahomet made a great +fuss about his hand, which was certainly much swollen, but not +worse than that of Achmet, who did not complain, although during +the night he had been again bitten on the leg by one of these +venomous insects, that had crawled from the water upon his +clothes. During our journey that morning parallel with the valley +of the Atbara, I had an excellent opportunity of watching the +effect of the storm. We rode along the abrupt margin of the table +land, where it broke suddenly into the deep valley; from the +sides of this the water was oozing in all directions, creating +little avalanches of earth, which fell as they lost their +solidity from too much moisture. This wonderfully rich soil was +rolling gradually towards Lower Egypt. From the heights above the +river we had a beautiful view of the stream, which at this +distance, reflecting the bright sunlight, did not appear like the +thick liquid mud that we knew it to be. The valley was of the +same general character that we had remarked at Goorashee, but +more abrupt--a mass of landslips, deep ravines, shaded by +mimosas, while the immediate neighbour hood of the Atbara was +clothed with the brightest green foliage. In this part, the +valley was about three miles in width, and two hundred feet deep. + +The commencement of the rainy season was a warning to all the +Arabs of this country, who were preparing for their annual +migration to the sandy and firm desert on the west bank of the +river, at Gozerajup; that region, so barren and desolate during +the hot season, would shortly be covered with a delicate grass +about eighteen inches high. At that favoured spot the rains fell +with less violence, and it formed a nucleus for the general +gathering of the people with their flocks. + +We were travelling south at the very season when the natives were +migrating north. I saw plainly that it would be impossible for us +to continue our journey during the wet season, as the camels had +the greatest difficulty in carrying their loads even now, at the +commencement: their feet sank deep into the soil; this formed +adhesive clods upon their spongy toes, that almost disabled them. +The farther we travelled south, the more violent would the rains +become, and a long tropical experience warned me that the rainy +season was the signal for fevers. All the camels of the Arabs +were being driven from the country; we had already met many herds +travelling northward, but this day's march was through crowds of +these animals, principally females with their young, many +thousands of which were on the road. Some of the young foals were +so small that they could not endure the march; these were slung +in nets upon the backs of camels, while the mother followed +behind. We revelled in milk, as we had not been able to procure +it since we left Cassala. Some persons dislike the milk of the +camel; I think it is excellent to drink pure, but it does not +answer in general use for mixing with coffee, with which it +immediately curdles; it is extremely rich, and is considered by +the Arabs to be more nourishing than that of the cow. To persons +of delicate health I should invariably recommend boiled milk in +preference to plain; and should the digestion be so extremely +weak that liquid milk disagrees with the stomach, they should +allow it to become thick, similar to curds and whey: this should +be then beaten together, with the admixture of a little salt and +cayenne pepper; it then assumes the thickness of cream, and is +very palatable. The Arabs generally prepare it in this manner; it +is not only considered to be more wholesome, but in its thickened +state it is easier to carry upon a journey. With an apology to +European medical men, I would suggest that they should try the +Arab system whenever they prescribe a milk diet for a delicate +patient. The first operation of curdling, which is a severe trial +to a weak stomach, is performed in hot climates by the +atmosphere, as in temperate climates by the admixture of rennet, +&c.; thus the most difficult work of the stomach is effected by +a foreign agency, and it is spared the first act of its +performance. I have witnessed almost marvellous results from a +milk diet given as now advised. + +Milk, if drunk warm from the animal in hot climates will affect +many persons in the same manner as a powerful dose of senna and +salts. Our party appeared to be proof against such an accident, +as they drank enough to have stocked a moderate-sized dairy. This +was most good-naturedly supplied gratis by the Arabs. + +It was the season of rejoicing; everybody appeared in good +humour; the distended udders of thousands of camels were an +assurance of plenty. The burning sun that for nine months had +scorched the earth was veiled by passing clouds; the cattle that +had panted for water, and whose food was withered straw, were +filled with juicy fodder: the camels that had subsisted upon the +dried and leafless twigs and branches, now feasted upon the +succulent tops of the mimosas. Throngs of women and children +mounted upon camels, protected by the peculiar gaudy saddle hood, +ornamented with cowrie-shells, accompanied the march; thousands +of sheep and goats, driven by Arab boys, were straggling in all +directions; baggage-camels, heavily laden with the quaint +household goods, blocked up the way; the fine bronzed figures of +Arabs, with sword and shield, and white topes, or plaids, guided +their milk-white dromedaries through the confused throng with the +usual placid dignity of their race, simply passing by with the +usual greeting, "Salaam aleikum," "Peace be with you." + +It was the Exodus; all were hurrying towards the promised +land--"the land flowing with milk and honey," where men and +beasts would be secure, not only from the fevers of the south, +but from that deadly enemy to camels and cattle, the fly; this +terrible insect drove all before it. + +If all were right in migrating to the north, it was a logical +conclusion that we were wrong in going to the south during the +rainy season; however, we now heard from the Arabs that we were +within a couple of hours' march from the camp of the great Sheik +Achmet Abou Sinn, to whom I had a letter of introduction. At the +expiration of about that time we halted, and pitched the tents +among some shady mimosas, while I sent Mahomet to Abou Sinn with +the letter, and my firman. + +I was busily engaged in making sundry necessary arrangements in +the tent, when Mahomet returned, and announced the arrival of the +great sheik in person. He was attended by several of his +principal people, and as he approached through the bright green +mimosas, mounted upon a beautiful snow-white hygeen, I was +exceedingly struck with his venerable and dignified appearance. +Upon near arrival I went forward to meet him, and to assist him +from his camel; but his animal knelt immediately at his command, +and he dismounted with the ease and agility of a man of twenty. + +He was the most magnificent specimen of an Arab that I have ever +seen. Although upwards of eighty years of age, he was as erect as +a lance, and did not appear more than between fifty and sixty; he +was of Herculean stature, about six feet three inches high, with +immensely broad shoulders and chest; a remarkably arched nose; +eyes like an eagle, beneath large, shaggy, but perfectly white +eyebrows; a snow-white beard of great thickness descended below +the middle of his breast. He wore a large white turban, and a +white cashmere abbai, or long robe, from the throat to the +ankles. As a desert patriarch he was superb, the very perfection +of all that the imagination could paint, if we would personify +Abraham at the head of his people. This grand old Arab with the +greatest politeness insisted upon our immediately accompanying +him to his camp, as he could not allow us to remain in his +country as strangers. He would hear of no excuses, but he at once +gave orders to Mahomet to have the baggage repacked and the tents +removed, while we were requested to mount two superb white +hygeens, with saddle-cloths of blue Persian sheep-skins, that he +had immediately accoutred when he heard from Mahomet of our +miserable camels. The tent was struck, and we joined our +venerable host with a line of wild and splendidly-mounted +attendants, who followed us towards the sheik's encampment. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +SHEIK ACHMET ABOU SINN. + +AMONG the retinue of the aged sheik, whom we now accompanied, +were ten of his sons, some of whom appeared to be quite as old as +their father. We had ridden about two miles, when we were +suddenly met by a crowd of mounted men, armed with the usual +swords and shields; many were on horses, others upon hygeens, and +all drew up in lines parallel with our approach. These were Abou +Sinn's people, who had assembled to give us the honorary welcome +as guests of their chief; this etiquette of the Arabs consists in +galloping singly at full speed across the line of advance, the +rider flourishing the sword over his head, and at the same moment +reining up his horse upon its haunches so as to bring it to a +sudden halt. This having been performed by about a hundred riders +upon both horses and hygeens, they fell into line behind our +party, and, thus escorted, we shortly arrived at the Arab +encampment. In all countries the warmth of a public welcome +appears to be exhibited by noise--the whole neighbourhood had +congregated to meet us; crowds of women raised the wild shrill +cry that is sounded alike for joy or sorrow; drums were beat; men +dashed about with drawn swords and engaged in mimic fight, and in +the midst of din and confusion we halted and dismounted. With +peculiar grace of manner the old sheik assisted my wife to +dismount, and led her to an open shed arranged with angareps +(stretchers) covered with Persian carpets and cushions, so as to +form a divan. Sherbet, pipes, and coffee were shortly handed to +us, and Mahomet, as dragoman, translated the customary +interchange of compliments; the sheik assured us that our +unexpected arrival among them was "like the blessing of a new +moon," the depth of which expression no one can understand who +has not experienced life in the desert, where the first faint +crescent is greeted with such enthusiasm. After a long +conversation we were led to an excellent mat tent that had been +vacated by one of his sons, and shortly afterwards an admirable +dinner of several dishes was sent to us, while with extreme good +taste we were left undisturbed by visitors until the following +morning. Our men had been regaled with a fat sheep, presented by +the sheik, and all slept contentedly. + +At sunrise we were visited by Abou Sinn. It appeared that, after +our conversation of the preceding evening, he had inquired of +Mahomet concerning my future plans and intentions; he now came +specially to implore us not to proceed south at this season of +the year, as it would be perfectly impossible to travel; he +described the country as a mass of mud, rendered so deep by the +rains that no animal could move; that the fly called the "seroot" +had appeared, and that no domestic animal except a goat could +survive its attack; he declared that to continue our route would +be mere insanity: and he concluded by giving us a most hospitable +invitation to join his people on their road to the healthy +country at Gozerajup, and to become his guests for three or four +months, until travelling would be feasible in the south, at which +time he promised to assist me in my explorations by an escort of +his own people, who were celebrated elephant hunters, and knew +the entire country before us. This was an alluring programme; but +after thanking him for his kindness, I explained how much I +disliked to retrace my steps, which I should do by returning to +Gozerajup; and that as I had heard of a German who was living at +the village of Sofi, on the Atbara, I should prefer to pass the +season of the rains at that place, where I could gather +information, and be ready on the spot to start for the +neighbouring Base country when the change of season should +permit. After some hesitation he consented to this plan, and +promised not only to mount us on our journey, but to send with us +an escort commanded by one of his grandsons. Sofi was about +seventy-eight miles distant. + +Abou Sinn had arranged to move northwards on the following day; +we therefore agreed to pass one day in his camp, and to leave for +Sofi the next morning. The ground upon which the Arab encampment +was situated was a tolerably flat surface, like a shelf, upon the +slope of the Atbara valley, about thirty or forty feet below the +rich table lands; the surface of this was perfectly firm, as by +the constant rains it had been entirely denuded of the loam that +had formed the upper stratum. This formed a charming place for +the encampment of a large party, as the ground was perfectly +clean, a mixture of quartz pebbles upon a hard white sandstone. +Numerous mimosas afforded a shade, beneath which the Arabs sat in +groups, and at the bottom of the valley flowed the Atbara. + +This tribe, which was peculiarly that of Abou Sinn, and from +which he had sprung, was the Shookeriyah, one of the most +powerful among the numerous tribes of Upper Egypt. + +From Korosko to this point we had already passed the Bedouins, +Bishareens, Hadendowas, Hallongas, until we had entered the +Shookeriyahs. On the west of our present position were the +Jalyns, and to the south near Sofi were the Dabainas. Many of the +tribes claim a right to the title of Bedouins, as descended from +that race. The customs of all the Arabs are nearly similar, and +the distinction in appearance is confined to a peculiarity in +dressing the hair; this is a matter of great importance among +both men and women. It would be tedious to describe the minutiae +of the various coiffures, but the great desire with all tribes, +except the Jalyn, is to have a vast quantity of hair arranged in +their own peculiar fashion, and not only smeared, but covered +with as much fat as can be made to adhere. Thus, should a man +wish to get himself up as a great dandy, he would put at least +half a pound of butter or other fat upon his head; this would be +worked up with his coarse locks by a friend, until it somewhat +resembled a cauliflower. He would then arrange his tope or plaid +of thick cotton cloth, and throw one end over his left shoulder, +while slung from the same shoulder his circular shield would hang +upon his back; suspended by a strap over the right shoulder would +hang his long two-edged broadsword. + +Fat is the great desideratum of an Arab; his head, as I have +described, should be a mass of grease; he rubs his body with oil +or other ointment; his clothes, i.e. his one garment or tope, is +covered with grease, and internally he swallows as much as he can +procure. + +The great Sheik Abou Sinn, who is upwards of eighty, as upright +as a dart, a perfect Hercules, and whose children and +grandchildren are like the sand of the sea-shore, has always +consumed daily throughout his life two rottolis (pounds) of +melted butter. A short time before I left the country he married +a new young wife about fourteen years of age. This may be a hint +to octogenarians. + +The fat most esteemed for dressing the hair is that of the sheep. +This undergoes a curious preparation, which renders it similar in +appearance to cold cream; upon the raw fat being taken from the +animal it is chewed in the mouth by an Arab for about two hours, +being frequently taken out for examination during that time, +until it has assumed the desired consistency. To prepare +sufficient to enable a man to appear in full dress, several +persons must be employed in masticating fat at the same time. +This species of pomade, when properly made, is perfectly white, +and exceedingly light and frothy. It may be imagined that when +exposed to a burning sun, the beauty of the head-dress quickly +disappears, but the oil then runs down the neck and back, which +is considered quite correct, especially when the tope becomes +thoroughly greased; the man is then perfectly anointed. We had +seen an amusing exanmple of this when on the march from Berber to +Gozerajup. The Turk, Hadji Achmet, had pressed into our service, +as a guide for a few miles, a dandy who had just been arranged as +a cauliflower, with at least half a pound of white fat upon his +head. As we were travelling upwards of four miles an hour in an +intense heat, during which he was obliged to run, the fat ran +quicker than he did, and at the end of a couple of hours both the +dandy and his pomade were exhausted; the poor fellow had to +return to his friends with the total loss of personal appearance +and half a pound of butter. + +Not only are the Arabs particular in their pomade, but great +attention is bestowed upon perfumery, especially by the women. +Various perfumes are brought from Cairo by the travelling native +merchants; among which those most in demand are oil of roses, oil +of sandalwood, an essence from the blossom of a species of +mimosa, essence of musk, and the oil of cloves. The women have a +peculiar method of scenting their bodies and clothes by an +operation that is considered to be one of the necessaries of +life, and which is repeated at regular intervals. In the floor of +the tent, or hut, as it may chance to be, a small hole is +excavated sufficiently large to contain a common-sized champagne +bottle: a fire of charcoal, or of simply glowing enmbers, is made +within the hole, into which the woman about to be scented throws +a handful of various drugs; she then takes off the cloth or tope +which forms her dress, and crouches naked over the fumes, while +she arranges her robe to fall as a mantle from her neck to the +ground like a tent. When this arrangement is concluded she is +perfectly happy, as none of the precious fumes can escape, all +being retained beneath the robe, precisely as if she wore a +crinoline with an incense-burner beneath it, which would be a far +more simple way of performing the operation. She now begins to +perspire freely in the hot-air bath, and the pores of the skin +being thus opened and moist, the volatile oil from the smoke of +the burning perfumes is immediately absorbed. + +By the time that the fire has expired, the scenting process is +completed, and both her person and robe are redolent of incense, +with which they are so thoroughly impregnated that I have +frequently smelt a party of women strongly at full a hundred +yards' distance, when the wind has been blowing from their +direction. Of course this kind of perfumery is only adapted for +those who live in tents and in the open air, but it is considered +by the ladies to have a peculiar attraction for the other sex, as +valerian is said to ensnare the genus felis. As the men are said +to be allured by this particular combination of sweet smells, and +to fall victims to the delicacy of their nasal organs, it will be +necessary to give the receipt for the fatal mixture, to be made +up in proportions according to taste :--Ginger, cloves, cinnamon, +frankincense, sandal-wood, myrrh, a species of sea-weed that is +brought from the Red Sea, and lastly, what I mistook for shells, +but which I subsequently discovered to be the horny disc that +closes the aperture when a shell-fish withdraws itself within its +shell; these are also brought from the Red Sea, in which they +abound throughout the shores of Nubia and Abyssinia. In addition +to the charm of sweet perfumes, the women who can afford the +luxury, suspend from their necks a few pieces of the dried glands +of the musk cat, which is a native of the country; such an +addition completes the toilet, when the coiffure has been +carefully arranged. + +Hair-dressing in all parts of the world, both civilized and +savage, is a branch of science; savage negro tribes are +distinguished by the various arrangements of their woolly heads. +Arabs are marked by similar peculiarities, that have never +changed for thousands of years, and may be yet seen depicted upon +the walls of Egyptian temples in the precise forms as worn at +present, while in modern times the perfection of art has been in +the wig of a Lord Chancellor. Although this latter example of the +result of science is not the actual hair of the wearer, it adds +an imposing glow of wisdom to the general appearance, and may +have originated as a necessity where a deficiency of sagacity had +existed, and where the absence of years required the fictitious +crown of grey old age. A barrister in his wig, and the same +amount of learning without the wig, is a very different affair; +he is an imperfect shadow of himself. Nevertheless, among +civilized nations, the men do not generally bestow much anxiety +upon the fashion of their hair; the labour in this branch of art +is generally performed by the women, who in all countries and +climes, and in every stage of civilization, bestow the greatest +pains upon the perfection of the coiffure, the various +arrangements of which might, I should imagine, be estimated by +the million. In some countries they are not even contented with +the natural colour of the hair, either if black or blonde, but +they use a pigment that turns it red. I only noticed this among +the Somauli tribe; and that of the Nuehr, some of the wildest +savages of the White Nile, until I returned to England, where I +found the custom was becoming general among the civilized, and +that ladies were adopting the lovely tint of the British fox. The +Arab women do not indulge in fashions; strictly conservative in +their manners and customs, they never imitate, but they simply +vie with each other in the superlativeness of their own style; +thus the dressing of the hair is a most elaborate affair, which +occupies a considerable portion of their time. It is quite +impossible for an Arab woman to arrange her own hair; she +therefore employs an assistant, who, if clever in the art, will +generally occupy about three days before it is satisfactorily +concluded. First, the hair must be combed with a long skewer-like +pin; then, when well divided, it becomes possible to use an +exceedingly coarse wooden comb. When the hair is reduced to +reasonable order by the latter process, a vigorous hunt takes +place, which occupies about an hour, according to the amount of +game preserved; the sport concluded, the hair is rubbed with a +mixture of oil of roses, myrrh, and sandal-wood dust mixed with +a powder of cloves and cassia. When well greased and rendered +somewhat stiff by the solids thus introduced, it is plaited into +at least two hundred fine plaits; each of these plaits is then +smeared with a mixture of sandal-wood dust and either gum water +or paste of dhurra flour. On the last day of the operation, each +tiny plait is carefully opened by the long hair-pin or skewer, +and the head is ravissante. Scented and frizzled in this manner, +with a well-greased tope or robe, the Arab lady's toilet is +complete, her head is then a little larger than the largest sized +English mop, and her perfume is something between the aroma of a +perfumer's shop and the monkey-house at the Zoological Gardens. +This is considered "very killing," and I have been quite of that +opinion when a crowd of women have visited my wife in our tent, +with the thermometer at 95 degrees, and they have kindly +consented to allow me to remain as one of the party. It is hardly +necessary to add, that the operation of hair-dressing is not +often performed, but that the effect is permanent for about a +week, during which time the game become so excessively lively, +that the creatures require stirring up with the long hair-pin or +skewer whenever too unruly; this appears to be constantly +necessary from the vigorous employment of the ruling sceptre +during conversation. A levee of Arab women in the tent was +therefore a disagreeable invasion, as we dreaded the fugitives; +fortunately, they appeared to cling to the followers of Mahomet +in preference to Christians. + +The plague of lice brought upon the Egyptians by Moses has +certainly adhered to the country ever since, if "lice" is the +proper translation of the Hebrew word in the Old Testament: it is +my own opinion that the insects thus inflicted upon the +population were not lice, but ticks. Exod. viii. 16, "The dust +became lice throughout all Egypt;" again, Exod. viii. 17, "Smote +dust . . . it became lice in man and beast." Now the louse that +infects the human body and hair has no connexion whatever with +"dust," and if subject to a few hours' exposure to the dry heat +of the burning sand, it would shrivel and die; but the tick is an +inhabitant of the dust, a dry horny insect without any apparent +moisture in its composition; it lives in hot sand and dust, where +it cannot possibly obtain nourishment, until some wretched animal +should lie down upon the spot, and become covered with these +horrible vermin. I have frequently seen desert places so infested +with ticks, that the ground was perfectly alive with them, and it +would have been impossible to have rested on the earth; in such +spots, the passage in Exodus has frequently occurred to me as +bearing reference to these vermin, which are the greatest enemies +to man and beast. It is well known that, from the size of a grain +of sand in their natural state, they will distend to the size of +a hazel-nut after having preyed for some days upon the blood of +an animal. The Arabs are invariably infested with lice, not only +in their hair, but upon their bodies and clothes; even the small +charms or spells worn upon the arm in neatly-sewn leathern +packets are full of these vermin. Such spells are generally +verses copied from the Koran by the Faky, or priest, who receives +some small gratuity in exchange; the men wear several of such +talismans upon the arm above the elbow, but the women wear a +large bunch of charms, as a sort of chatelaine, suspended beneath +their clothes round the waist. Although the tope or robe, loosely +but gracefully arranged around the body, appears to be the whole +of the costume, the women wear beneath this garment a thin blue +cotton cloth tightly bound round the loins, which descends to a +little above the knee; beneath this, next to the skin, is the +last garment, the rahat--the latter is the only clothing of young +girls, and may be either perfectly simple or adorned with beads +and cowrie shells according to the fancy of the wearer; it is +perfectly effective as a dress, and admirably adapted to the +climate. + +The rahat is a fringe of fine dark brown or reddish twine, +fastened to a belt, and worn round the waist. On either side are +two long tassels, that are generally ornamented with beads or +cowries, and dangle nearly to the ankles, while the rahat itself +should descend to a little above the knee, rather shorter than a +Highland kilt. Nothing can be prettier or more simple than this +dress, which, although short, is of such thickly hanging fringe, +that it perfectly answers the purpose for which it is intended. +Many of the Arab girls are remarkably good-looking, with fine +figures until they become mothers. They generally marry at the +age of thirteen or fourteen, but frequently at twelve, or even +earlier. Until married, the rahat is their sole garment. +Throughout the Arab tribes of Upper Egypt, chastity is a +necessity, as an operation is performed at the early age of from +three to five years that thoroughly protects all females, and +which renders them physically proof against incontinency. + +There is but little love-making among the Arabs. The affair of +matrimony usually commences by a present to the father of the +girl, which, if accepted, is followed by a similar advance to the +girl herself, and the arrangement is completed. All the friends +of both parties are called together for the wedding; pistols and +guns are fired off, if possessed. There is much feasting, and the +unfortunate bridegroom undergoes the ordeal of whipping by the +relations of his bride, in order to test his courage. Sometimes +this punishment is exceedingly severe, being inflicted with the +coorbatch or whip of hippopotamus hide, which is cracked +vigorously about his ribs and back. If the happy husband wishes +to be considered a man worth having, he must receive the +chastisement with an expression of enjoyment; in which case the +crowds of women again raise their thrilling cry in admiration. +After the rejoicings of the day are over, the bride is led in the +evening to the residence of her husband, while a beating of drums +and strumming of guitars (rhababas) are kept up for some hours +during the night, with the usual discordant idea of singing. + +There is no divorce court among the Arabs. They are not +sufficiently advanced in civilization to accept a pecuniary fine +as the price of a wife's dishonour; but a stroke of the husband's +sword, or a stab with the knife, is generally the ready remedy +for infidelity. Although strictly Mahometans, the women are never +veiled; neither do they adopt the excessive reserve assumed by +the Turks and Egyptians. The Arab women are generally idle; and +one of the conditions of accepting a suitor is, that a female +slave is to be provided for the special use of the wife. No Arab +woman will engage herself as a domestic servant; thus, so long as +their present customs shall remain unchanged, slaves are +creatures of necessity. Although the law of Mahomet limits the +number of wives for each man to four at one time, the Arab women +do not appear to restrict their husbands to this allowance, and +the slaves of the establishment occupy the position of concubines. + +The customs of the Arabs in almost every detail have remained +unchanged. Thus, in dress, in their nomadic habits, food, the +anointing with oil (Eccles. ix. 8, "Let thy garments be always +white, and let thy head lack no ointment"), they retain the +habits and formalities of the distant past, and the present is +but the exact picture of those periods which are historically +recorded in the Old Testament. The perfumery of the women already +described, bears a resemblance to that prepared by Moses for the +altar, which was forbidden to be used by the people. "Take thou +also unto thee principal spices, of pure myrrh five hundred +shekels, and of sweet cinnamon half so much, even two hundred and +fifty shekels, and of sweet calamus two hundred and fifty +shekels, and of cassia five hundred shekels, after the shekel of +the sanctuary, and of oil olive an hin: and thou shalt make it an +oil of holy ointment, an ointment compound after the art of the +apothecary: it shall be an holy anointing oil."--Exod. xxx. 23-25. + +The manner of anointing by the ancients is exhibited by the Arabs +at the present day, who, as I have already described, make use of +so large a quantity of grease at one application that, when +melted, it runs down over their persons and clothes. In +Ps. cxxxiii. 2, "It is like the precious ointment upon the head, +that ran down upon the beard, even Aaron's beard, that went down +to the skirts of his garments." + +In all hot climates, oil or other fat is necessary to the skin as +a protection from the sun, where the body is either naked or very +thinly clad. I have frequently seen both Arabs and the negro +tribes of Africa suffer great discomfort when for some days the +supply of grease has been exhausted; the skin has become coarse, +rough, almost scaly, and peculiarly unsightly, until the +much-loved fat has been obtained, and the general appearance of +smoothness has been at once restored by an active smearing. The +expression in Ps. civ. 15, "And oil to make his face to shine," +describes the effect that was then considered beautifying, as it +is at the present time. + +The Arabs generally adhere strictly to their ancient customs, +independently of the comparatively recent laws established by +Mahomet. Thus, concubinage is not considered a breach of +morality; neither is it regarded by the legitimate wives with +jealousy. They attach great importance to the laws of Moses, and +to the customs of their forefathers; neither can they understand +the reason for a change of habit in any respect where necessity +has not suggested the reform. The Arabs are creatures of +necessity; their nomadic life is compulsory, as the existence of +their flocks and herds depends upon the pasturage. Thus, with the +change of seasons they must change their localities, according to +the presence of fodder for their cattle. Driven to and fro by the +accidents of climate, the Arab has been compelled to become a +wanderer; and precisely as the wild beasts of the country are +driven from place to place either by the arrival of the fly, the +lack of pasturage, or by the want of water, even so must the +flocks of the Arab obey the law of necessity, in a country where +the burning sun and total absence of rain for nine months of the +year convert the green pastures into a sandy desert. The Arabs +and their herds must follow the example of the wild beasts, and +live as wild and wandering a life. In the absence of a fixed +home, without a city, or even a village that is permanent, there +can be no change of custom. There is no stimulus to competition +in the style of architecture that is to endure only for a few +months; no municipal laws suggest deficiencies that originate +improvements. The Arab cannot halt in one spot longer than the +pasturage will support his flocks; therefore his necessity is +food for his beasts. The object of his life being fodder, he must +wander in search of the ever-changing supply. His wants must be +few, as the constant changes of encampment necessitate the +transport of all his household goods; thus he reduces to a +minimum the domestic furniture and utensils. No desires for +strange and fresh objects excite his mind to improvement, or +alter his original habits; he must limit his impedimenta, not +increase them. Thus with a few necessary articles he is +contented. Mats for his tent, ropes manufactured with the hair of +his goats and camels, pots for carrying fat; water-jars and +earthenware pots or gourd-shells for containing milk; leather +water-skins for the desert, and sheep-skin bags for his +clothes,--these are the requirements of the Arabs. Their patterns +have never changed, but the water-jar of to-day is of the same +form that was carried to the well by the women of thousands of +years ago. The conversation of the Arabs is in the exact style of +the Old Testament. The name of God is coupled with every trifling +incident in life, and they believe in the continual action of +Divine special interference. Should a famine afflict the country, +it is expressed in the stern language of the Bible--"The Lord has +sent a grievous famine upon the land;" or, "The Lord called for +a famine, and it came upon the land." Should their cattle fall +sick, it is considered to be an affliction by Divine command; or +should the flocks prosper and multiply particularly during one +season, the prosperity is attributed to special interference. +Nothing can happen in the usual routine of daily life without a +direct connexion with the hand of God, according to the Arab's +belief. + +This striking similarity to the descriptions of the Old Testament +is exceedingly interesting to a traveller when residing among +these curious and original people. With the Bible in one hand, +and these unchanged tribes before the eyes, there is a thrilling +illustration of the sacred record; the past becomes the present; +the veil of three thousand years is raised, and the living +picture is a witness to the exactness of the historical +description. At the same time, there is a light thrown upon many +obscure passages in the Old Testament by the experience of the +present customs and figures of speech of the Arabs which are +precisely those that were practised at the periods described. I +do not attempt to enter upon a theological treatise, therefore it +is unnecessary to allude specially to these particular points. +The sudden and desolating arrival of a flight of locusts, the +plague, or any other unforeseen calamity, is attributed to the +anger of God, and is believed to be an infliction of punishment +upon the people thus visited, precisely as the plagues of Egypt +were specially inflicted upon Pharaoh and the Egyptians. + +Should the present history of the country be written by an Arab +scribe, the style of the description would be purely that of the +Old Testament; and the various calamities or the good fortunes +that have in the course of nature befallen both the tribes and +individuals, would be recounted either as special visitations of +Divine wrath, or blessings for good deeds performed. If in a +dream a particular course of action is suggested, the Arab +believes that God has spoken and directed him. The Arab scribe or +historian would describe the event as the "voice of the Lord" +("kallam el Allah"), having spoken unto the person; or, that God +appeared to him in a dream and "said," &c. Thus much allowance +would be necessary on the part of a European reader for the +figurative ideas and expressions of the people. As the Arabs are +unchanged, the theological opinions which they now hold are the +same as those which prevailed in remote ages, with the simple +addition of their belief in Mahomet as the Prophet. + +There is a fascination in the unchangeable features of the Nile +regions. There are the vast Pyramids that have defied time; the +river upon which Moses was cradled in infancy; the same sandy +deserts through which he led his people; and the watering-places +where their flocks were led to drink. The wild and wandering +tribes of Arabs who thousands of years ago dug out the wells in +the wilderness, are represented by their descendants unchanged, +who now draw water from the deep wells of their forefathers with +the skins that have never altered their fashion. The Arabs, +gathering with their goats and sheep around the wells to-day, +recall the recollection of that distant time when "Jacob went on +his journey, and came into the land of the people of the east. +And he looked, and behold a well in the field; and, lo, there +were three flocks of sheep lying by it, for out of that well they +watered the flocks; and a great stone was upon the well's mouth. +And thither were all the flocks gathered; and they rolled the +stone from the well's mouth, and watered the sheep, and put the +stone again upon the well's mouth in his place." The picture of +that scene would be an illustration of Arab daily life in the +Nubian deserts, where the present is the mirror of the past. + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE DEPARTURE. + +ON the morning of the 25th July, 1861, Abou Sinn arrived at our +tent with a number of his followers, in their whitest apparel, +accompanied by one of his grandsons, Sheik Ali, who was to +command our escort and to accompany us to the frontier of the +Dabaina tribe, at which spot we were to be handed over to the +care of the sheik of those Arabs, Atalan Wat Said, who would +conduct us to Sofi. There were two superb hygeens duly equipped +for my wife and myself: they were snow-white, without speck or +blemish, and as clean and silk-like as good grooming could +accomplish. One of these beautiful creatures I subsequently +measured,--seven feet three and a half inches to the top of the +hump; this was much above the average. The baggage-camels were +left to the charge of the servants, and we were requested to +mount immediately, as the Sheik Abou Sinn was determined to +accompany us for some distance as a mark of courtesy, although he +was himself to march with his people on that day in the opposite +direction towards Gozerajup. Escorted by our grand old host, with +a great number of mounted attendants, we left the hospitable +camp, and followed the margin of the Atbara valley towards the +south, until, at the distance of about two miles, Abou Sinn took +leave, and returned with his people. + +We now enjoyed the contrast between the light active step of +first-class hygeens, and the heavy swinging action of the camels +we had hitherto ridden. Travelling was for the first time a +pleasure; there was a delightful movement in the elasticity of +the hygeens, who ambled at about five miles and a half an hour, +as their natural pace; this they can continue for nine or ten +hours without fatigue. Having no care for the luggage, and the +coffee-pot being slung upon the saddle of an attendant, who also +carried our carpet, we were perfectly independent, as we were +prepared with the usual luxuries upon halting,--the carpet to +recline upon beneath a shady tree, and a cup of good Turkish +coffee. Thus we could afford to travel at a rapid rate, and await +the arrival of the baggage-camels at the end of the day's +journey. In this manner the march should be arranged in these +wild countries, where there is no resting-place upon the path +beyond the first inviting shade that suggests a halt. The day's +journey should be about twenty-four miles. A loaded camel seldom +exceeds two miles and a half per hour; at this rate nearly ten +hours would be consumed upon the road daily, during which time +the traveller would be exposed to the intense heat of the sun, +and to the fatigue inseparable from a long and slow march. A +servant mounted upon a good hygeen should accompany him with the +coffee apparatus and a cold roast fowl and biscuits; the ever +necessary carpet should form the cover to his saddle, to be ready +when required; he then rides far in advance of the caravan. This +simple arrangement insures comfort, and lessens the ennui of the +journey; the baggage-camels are left in charge of responsible +servants, to be brought forward at their usual pace, until they +shall arrive at the place selected for the halt by the traveller. +The usual hour of starting is about 5.30 A.M. The entire day's +journey can be accomplished in something under five hours upon +hygeens, instead of the ten hours dreary pace of the caravan; +thus, the final halt would be made at about 10.30 A.M. at which +time the traveller would be ready for breakfast. The carpet would +be spread under a shady tree; upon a branch of this his +water-skin should be suspended, and the day's work over, he can +write up his journal and enjoy his pipe while coffee is being +prepared. After breakfast he can take his gun or rifle and +explore the neighbourhood, until the baggage-camels shall arrive +in the evening, by which time, if he is a sportsman, he will have +procured something for the dinner of the entire party. The +servants will have collected firewood, and all will be ready for +the arrival of the caravan, without the confusion and bustle of +a general scramble, inseparable from the work to be suddenly +performed, when camels must be unloaded, fuel collected, fires +lighted, the meals prepared, beds made, &c. &c. all at the same +moment, with the chance of little to eat. Nothing keeps the +camel-drivers and attendants in such good humour as a successful +rifle. While they are on their long and slow march, they +speculate upon the good luck that may attend the master's gun, +and upon arrival at the general bivouac in the evening they are +always on the alert to skin and divide the antelopes, pluck the +guinea-fowls, &c. &c. We now travelled in this delightful manner; +there were great numbers of guinea-fowl throughout the country, +which was the same everlasting flat and rich table land, +extending for several hundred miles to the south, and dotted with +green mimosas; while upon our left was the broken valley of the +Atbara. + +The only drawback to the journey was the rain. At about 2 P.M. +daily we were subjected to a violent storm, which generally +lasted until the evening; and although our guides invariably +hurried forward on the march to the neighbourhood of some +deserted huts, whose occupants had migrated north, our baggage +and servants upon the road were exposed to the storm, and arrived +late in the evening, wet and miserable. There could be no doubt +that the season for travelling was past. Every day's journey +south had proved by the increased vegetation that we were +invading the rainy zone, and that, although the northern deserts +possessed their horrors of sandy desolation, they at the same +time afforded that great advantage to the traveller, a dry +climate. + +In a few rapid marches we arrived at Tomat, the commencement of +the Dabainas and the principal head-quarters of the sheik of that +tribe, Atalan Wat Said. This was a lovely spot, where the country +appeared like green velvet, as the delicate young grass was about +two inches above the ground. The Arab camp was situated upon a +series of knolls about a hundred and fifty feet above the Atbara, +upon the hard ground denuded by the rains, as this formed a +portion of the valley. At this spot, the valley on the west bank +of the river was about two miles broad, and exhibited the usual +features of innumerable knolls, ravines, and landslips, in +succession, like broken terraces from the high level table land, +sloping down irregularly to the water's edge. On the opposite +side of the river was the most important feature of the country; +the land on the east bank was considerably higher than upon the +west, and a long tongue formed a bluff cliff that divided the +Atbara valley from the sister valley of the Settite, which, +corresponding exactly in character and apparent dimensions, +joined that of the Atbara from the S.E., forming an angle like +the letter V, in a sudden bend of the river. Through the valley +of the eastern bank flowed the grand river Settite, which here +formed a junction with the Atbara. + +Looking down upon the beautifully wooded banks of the two rivers +at this interesting point, we rode leisurely across a ravine, and +ascended a steep incline of bright green grass, upon the summit +of which was a fine level space of several acres that formed the +Arab head-quarters. This surface was nearly covered with the +usual mat tents, and in a few moments our camels knelt before +that of the sheik, at which we dismounted. A crowd of inquisitive +Arabs surrounded us upon seeing so large a party of hygeens, and +the firman having been delivered by our guide, Sheik Ali, we were +almost immediately visited by Sheik Atalan Wat Said. He was a man +in the prime of life, of an intelligent countenance, and he +received us with much politeness, immediately ordering a fat +sheep to be brought and slaughtered for our acceptance. + +The usual welcome upon the arrival of a traveller, who is well +received in an Arab camp, is the sacrifice of a fat sheep, that +should be slaughtered at the door of his hut or tent, so that the +blood flows to the threshold. This custom has evidently some +connexion with the ancient rites of sacrifice. Should an +important expedition be undertaken, a calf is slaughtered at the +entrance of the camp, and every individual steps over the body as +the party starts upon the enterprise. + +Upon learning my plans, he begged us to remain through the rainy +season at Tomat, as it was the head-quarters of a party of +Egyptian irregular troops, who would assist me in every way. This +was no great temptation, as they were the people whom I most +wished to avoid; I therefore explained that I was bound to Sofi +by the advice of Abou Sinn, from whence I could easily return if +I thought proper, but I wished to proceed on the following +morning. He promised to act as our guide, and that hygeens should +be waiting at the tent-door at sunrise. After our interview, I +strolled down to the river's side and shot some guinea-fowl. + +The Settite is the river par excellence, as it is the principal +stream of Abyssinia, in which country it bears the name of +"Tacazzy." Above the junction, the Atbara does not exceed two +hundred yards in width. Both rivers have scooped out deep and +broad valleys throughout their course; this fact confirmed my +first impression of the supply of soil having been brought down +by the Atbara to the Nile. The country on the opposite or eastern +bank of the Atbara is contested ground; in reality it forms the +western frontier of Abyssinia, of which the Atbara river is the +boundary, but since the annexation of the Nubian provinces to +Egypt there has been no safety for life or property upon the line +of frontier; thus a large tract of country actually forming a +portion of Abyssinia is uninhabited. + +Upon my return to the camp, I was informed by the Sheik Wat Said +that a detachment of troops was stationed at Tomat expressly to +protect the Egyptian frontier from the raids of Mek Nimmur, who +was in the habit of crossing the Atbara and pillaging the Arab +villages during the dry season, when the river was fordable. This +Mek Nimmur was a son of the celebrated Mek Nimmur, the chief of +Shendy, a district upon the west bank of the Nile between Berber +and Khartoum. When the Egyptian forces, under the command of +Ismael Pasha, the son of the Viceroy Mehemet Ali Pasha, arrived +at Shendy, at the time of the conquest of Nubia, he called the +great Sheik Mek (from Melek, signifying king) Nimmur before him, +and demanded the following supplies for his army, as tribute for +the Pasha:--1,000 young girls as slaves; 1,000 oxen; and of +camels, goats, sheep, each 1,000; also camel-loads of corn and +straw each 1,000, with a variety of other demands expressed by +the same figure. It is said that Mek Nimmur replied to these +demands with much courtesy, "Your arithmetic exhibits a charming +simplicity, as the only figure appears to be 1,000." In a short +time the supplies began to arrive, strings of camels, laden with +corn, assembled at Shendy in the Egyptian camp; cattle, goats, +sheep, came in from all sides; fodder for the Egyptian cavalry, +to the amount of 1,000 camel-loads, was brought to head-quarters, +and piled in a huge wall that encircled the tent of the General +Ismael Pasha. In the dead of night, while he slept, the crackling +of fire was heard, and flames burst out upon all sides of the dry +and combustible fodder; the Arabs had fired the straw in all +directions, and a roar of flame in a fatal ring surrounded the +Pasha's tent, which caught the fire. There was no escape! In the +confusion, the Arabs fell upon the troops, and massacred a +considerable number. After this success, Mek Nimmur succeeded in +retiring with his people and herds to Sofi, on the Atbara, to +which place we were bound; this was about twelve miles from +Tomat. The body of Ismael Pasha was found beneath those of some +of his women, all of whom that were within the inclosure having +perished. + +After this calamity the Egyptians recovered Shendy, and in +revenge they collected a number of the inhabitants of all ages +and both sexes. These were penned together like cattle in a +zareeba or kraal, and were surrounded with dhurra-straw, which +was fired in a similar manner to that which destroyed the Pasha. +Thus were these unfortunate creatures destroyed en masse, while +the remaining portion of the population fled to the new +settlement of their chief at Sofi. + +Within the last few years preceding my arrival, the Egyptians had +attacked and utterly destroyed the old town of Sofi. Mek Nimmur +had retired across the Atbara, and had taken refuge in Abyssinia, +where he had been welcomed by the king of that country as the +enemy of the Turks, and had been presented with a considerable +territory at the western base of the high mountain range. When I +arrived on the Atbara in 1861, the original Mek Nimnmur was dead, +and his son, who also was called Mek Nimmur, reigned in his +stead. "Nimmur" signifies in Arabic "leopard:" thus "Mek Nimmur" +is the "Leopard King." + +This man was constantly at war with the Egyptians, and such Arabs +who were friendly to Egypt. His principal head-quarters were +about seventy miles from Tomat, at a village named Mai Gubba, +from which country he made successful razzias upon the Egyptian +territory, which compelled a vigilant look-out during the dry +season. During the rains there was no danger, as the river was +immensely deep, and impassable from the total absence of boats. + +The uninhabited country exactly opposite Tomat was said to abound +with large game, such as elephants, giraffes, &c. as there were +no enemies to disturb them. + +At break of day, 29th July, the grandson of Abou Sinn, Sheik Ali, +who had been our guide, paid us his parting visit, and returned +with his people, while at the same time Atalan Wat Said arrived +with a large retinue of his own Arabs and Egyptian soldiers to +escort us to Sofi. Two splendid hygeens were already saddled for +us, one of which was specially intended for my wife; this was the +most thorough-bred looking animal I have ever seen; both were +milk-white, but there was a delicacy in the latter that was +unequalled. This was rather small, and although the ribs were so +well covered that the animal appeared rather fleshy, it was in +the hardiest condition, and was shaped in the depth of brisket +and width of loins like a greyhound; the legs were remarkably +fine, and as clean as ivory. The Sheik Atalan was charmed at our +admiration of his much-prized hygeen, and to prove its speed and +easy action we were no sooner mounted than he led the way at +about ten miles an hour, down the steep slopes, across the rough +watercourses, and up the hill-sides, assuring my wife that she +might sip a cup of coffee on the back of the animal she rode, +without spilling a drop: although an exaggeration, this is the +usual figure of speech by which an Arab describes the easy action +of a first-rate hygeen. It was a beautiful sight to watch the +extraordinary ease with which the hygeen glided along over the +numerous inequalities of the ground without the slightest +discomfort to the rider; the numerous escort became a long and +irregular line of stragglers, until at length they were lost in +the distance, with the exception of three or four, who, well +mounted, were proud of keeping their position. Emerging from the +uneven valley of the Atbara, we arrived upon the high and level +table land above; here the speed increased, and in the +exhilaration of the pace in the cool morning air, with all nature +glowing in the fresh green of a Nubian spring, we only regretted +the shortness of the journey to Sofi, which we reached before the +heat of the day had commenced. We were met by the sheik of the +village, and by a German who had been a resident of Sofi for some +years; he was delighted to see Europeans, especially those who +were conversant with his own language, and he very politely +insisted that we should dismount at his house. Accordingly our +camels knelt at the door of a little circular stone building +about twelve feet in diameter, with a roof thatched according to +Arab fashion. This dwelling was the model of an Arab hut, but the +walls were of masonry instead of mud and sticks, and two small +windows formed an innovation upon the Arab style, which had much +astonished the natives, who are contented with the light afforded +by the doorway. + +We were shortly sitting in the only stone building in the +country, among a crowd of Arabs, who, according to their annoying +custom, had thronged to the hut upon our arrival, and not only +had filled the room, but were sitting in a mob at the doorway, +while masses of mop-like heads were peering over the shoulders of +the front rank, excluding both light and air; even the windows +were blocked with highly frizzled heads, while all were talking +at the same time. + +Coffee having been handed to the principal people while our tents +were being pitched outside the village, we at length silenced the +crowd; our new acquaintance explained in Arabic the object of our +arrival, and our intention of passing the rainy season at Sofi, +and of exploring the various rivers of Abyssinia at the earliest +opportunity. Atalan Wat Said promised every assistance when the +time should arrive; he described the country as abounding with +large game of all kinds, and he agreed to furnish me with guides +and hunters at the commencement of the hunting season; in the +meantime he ordered the sheik of the village, Hassan bel Kader, +to pay us every attention. + +After the departure of Atalan and his people, and the usual +yelling of the women, we had time to examine Sofi, and +accompanied by the German, Florian, we strolled through the +village. At this position the slope of the valley towards the +river was exceedingly gradual upon the west bank, until within a +hundred and fifty yards of the Atbara, when the ground rapidly +fell, and terminated in an abrupt cliff of white sandstone. + +The miserable little village of modern Sofi comprised about +thirty straw huts, but the situation was worthy of a more +important settlement. A plateau of hard sandy soil of about +twenty acres was bordered upon either side by two deep ravines +that formed a natural protection, while below the steep cliff, +within two hundred paces in front of the village, flowed the +river Atbara; for mounted men there was only one approach, that +which we had taken from the main land. There could not have been +a more inviting spot adopted for a resting-place during the +rains. Although the soil was thoroughly denuded of loam, and +nothing remained but the original substratum of sandstone and +pebbles, the grass was at this season about three inches high +throughout the entire valley of the Atbara, the trees were in +full leaf, and the vivid green, contrasting with the snow-white +sandstone rocks, produced the effect of an ornamental park. My +tents were pitched upon a level piece of ground, outside the +village, about a hundred paces from the river, where the grass +had been so closely nibbled by the goats that it formed a natural +lawn, and was perfection for a camp; drains were dug around the +tent walls, and everything was arranged for a permanency. I +agreed with the sheik for the erection of a comfortabie hut for +ourselves, a kitchen adjoining, and a hut for the servants, as +the heavy storms were too severe for a life under canvas; in the +meantime we sat in our tent, and had a quiet chat with Florian, +the German. + +He was a sallow, sickly-looking man, who with a large bony frame +had been reduced from constant hard work and frequent sickness to +little but skin and sinew; he was a mason, who had left Germany +with the Austrian Mission to Khartoum, but finding the work too +laborious in such a climate, he and a friend, who was a +carpenter, had declared for independence, and they had left the +Mission. + +They were both enterprising fellows, and sportsmen; therefore +they had purchased rifles and ammunition, and had commenced life +as hunters; at the same time they employed their leisure hours in +earning money by the work of their hands in various ways. +Florian, being a stonemason, had of course built his hut of +stone; he was a fair blacksmith and carpenter, and was well +provided with tools; but his principal occupation was whipmaking, +from the hides of hippopotami. As coorbatches were required +throughout the country there was an extensive demand for his +camel-whips, which were far superior to those of native +manufacture; these he sold to the Arabs at about two shillings +each. He had lately met with a serious accident by the bursting +of one of the wretched guns that formed his sporting battery; +this had blown away his thumb from the wrist joint, and had so +shattered his hand that it would most likely have suffered +amputation had he enjoyed the advantage of European surgical +assistance; but with the simple aid of his young black lad, +Richarn, who cut off the dangling thumb and flesh with his knife, +he had preserved his hand, minus one portion. + +Florian had had considerable experience in some parts of the +country that I was about to visit, and he gave me much valuable +information that was of great assistance in directing my first +operations. The close of the rainy season would be about the +middle of September, but travelling would be impossible until +November, as the fly would not quit the country until the grass +should become dry; therefore the Arabs would not return with +their camels until that period. + +It appeared that this peculiar fly, which tortured all domestic +animals, invaded the country shortly after the commencement of +the rains, when the grass was about two feet high; a few had +already been seen, but Sofi was a favoured spot that was +generally exempt from this plague, which clung more particularly +to the flat and rich table lands, where the quality of grass was +totally different to that produced upon the pebbly and denuded +soil of the sandstone slopes of the valley. The grass of the +slopes was exceedingly fine, and would not exceed a height of +about two feet, while that of the table lands would exceed nine +feet, and become impassable, until sufficiently dry to be cleared +by fire. In November, the entire country would become a vast +prairie of dried straw, the burning of which would then render +travelling and hunting possible. + +Florian had hunted for some distance along the Settite river with +his companions, and had killed fifty-three hippopotami during the +last season. I therefore agreed that he should accompany me until +I should have sufficiently explored that river, after which I +proposed to examine the rivers Salaam and Angrab, of which great +tributaries of the Atbara nothing definite was known, except that +they joined that river about fifty miles south of Sofi. + +Florian described the country as very healthy during the dry +season, but extremely dangerous during the rains, especially in +the month of October, when, on the cessation of rain, the sun +evaporated the moisture from the sodden ground and rank +vegetation. I accordingly determined to arrange our winter +quarters as comfortably as possible at Sofi for three months, +during which holiday I should have ample time for gaining +information and completing my arrangements for the future. +Violent storms were now of daily occurrence; they had first +commenced at about 2 P.M., but they had gradually altered the +hour of their arrival to between 3 and 4. This night, 29th July, +we were visited at about 11 P.M. with the most tremendous tempest +that we had yet experienced, which lasted until the morning. +Fortunately the tent was well secured with four powerful +storm-ropes fastened from the top of the pole, and pinned about +twenty-five yards from the base to iron bars driven deep into the +hard ground; but the night was passed in the discomforts of a +deluge that, driven by the hurricane, swept through the tent, +which threatened every minute to desert us in shreds. On the +following morning the storm had passed away, and the small tent +had done likewise, having been blown down and carried many yards +from the spot where it had been pitched. Mahomet, who was the +occupant, had found himself suddenly enveloped in wet canvas, +from which he had emerged like a frog in the storm. There was no +time to be lost in completing my permanent camp; I therefore sent +for the sheik of the village, and proceeded to purchase a house. +I accompanied him through the narrow lanes of Sofi, and was +quickly shown a remarkably neat house, which I succeeded in +purchasing from the owner for the sum of ten piastres (two +shillings). This did not seem an extravagant outlay for a neat +dwelling with a sound roof; neither were there any legal expenses +in the form of conveyance, as in that happy and practical land +the simple form of conveyance is the transportation of the house +(the roof) upon the shoulders of about thirty men, and thus it is +conveyed to any spot that the purchaser may consider desirable. +Accordingly, our mansion was at once seized by a crowd of Arabs, +and carried off in triumph, while the sticks that formed the wall +were quickly arranged upon the site I had chosen for our camp. In +the short space of about three hours I found myself the +proprietor of an eligible freehold residence, situated upon an +eminence in park-like grounds, commanding extensive and romantic +views of the beautifully-wooded valley of the Atbara, within a +minute's walk of the neighbouring village of Sofi, perfect +immunity from all poor-rates, tithes, taxes, and other public +burthens, not more than 2,000 miles from a church, with the +advantage of a post-town at the easy distance of seventy leagues. +The manor comprised the right of shooting throughout the parishes +of Ahyssinia and Soudan, plentifully stocked with elephants, +lions, rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, hippopotami, leopards, +and a great variety of antelopes; while the right of fishing +extended throughout the Atbara and neighbouring rivers, that were +well stocked with fish ranging from five to a hundred and fifty +pounds; also with turtles and crocodiles. + +The mansion comprised entrance-hall, dining-room, drawing-roomn, +lady's boudoir, library, breakfast-room, bed-room and +dressing-room (with the great advantage of their combination in +one circular room fourteen feet in diameter). The architecture +was of an ancient style, from the original design of a pill-box +surmounted by a candle extinguisher. + +Thus might my estate have been described by an English estate +agent and auctioneer, with a better foundation of fact than many +newspaper advertisements. + +I purchased two additional huts, one of which was erected at the +back (if a circle has a back) of our mansion, as the kitchen, +while the other at a greater distance formed the "servants' +hall." We all worked hard for several days in beautifying our +house and grounds. In the lovely short grass that resembled green +velvet, we cut walks to the edge of a declivity, and surrounded +the house with a path of snow-white sand, resembling coarsely +pounded sugar; this we obtained from some decomposed sandstone +rock which crumbled upon the slightest pressure. We collected +curiously-shaped blocks of rock, and masses of fossil wood that +were imbedded in the sandstone; these we formed into borders for +our walks, and opposite to our front door (there was no back +door) we arranged a half-circle or "carriage-drive," of white +sand, to the extreme edge of the declivity, which we bordered +with large rocks; one of which I believe may remain to this day, +as I carried it to the spot to form a seat, and my vanity was +touched by the fact that it required two Arabs to raise it from +the ground. I made a rustic table of split bamboos, and two +garden seats opposite the entrance of the house, and we collected +a number of wild plants and bulbs which we planted in little +beds; we also sowed the seeds of different gourds that were to +climb up on our roof. + +In the course of a week we had formed as pretty a camp as +Robinson Crusoe himself could have coveted; but he, poor +unfortunate, had only his man Friday to assist him, while in our +arrangements there were many charms and indescribable little +comforts that could only be effected by a lady's hand. Not only +were our walks covered with snow-white sand and the borders +ornamented with beautiful agates that we had collected in the +neighbourhood, but the interior of our house was the perfection +of neatness: the floor was covered with white sand beaten firmly +together to the depth of about six inches; the surface was swept +and replaced with fresh material daily; the travelling bedsteads, +with their bright green mosquito curtains, stood by either side, +affording a clear space in the centre of the circle, while +exactly opposite the door stood the gun-rack, with as goodly an +array of weapons as the heart of a sportsman could desire:-- + +My little Fletcher double rifle, No. 24. + +One double rifle, No. 10, by Tatham. + +Two double rifles, No. 10, by Reilly. + +One double rifle, No. 10, by Beattie (one of my old Ceylon +tools). + +One double gun, No. 10, by Beattie. + +One double gun, No. 10, by Purdey, belonging to Mr. Oswell, of +South African celebrity. + +One single rifle, No. 8, by Manton. + +One single rifle, No. 14, by Beattie. + +One single rifle that carried a half-pouud explosive shell, by +Holland of Bond Street; this was nicknamed by the Arabs "Jenna el +Mootfah" (child of a cannon), and for the sake of brevity I +called it the "Baby." + +My revolver and a brace of double-barrelled pistols hung upon the +wall, which, although the exterior of the house was straw, we had +lined with the bright coloured canvas of the tent. Suspended by +loops were little ornamental baskets worked by the Arabs, that +contained a host of useful articles, such as needles, thread, &c. +&c., and the remaining surface was hung with hunting knives, +fishing lines, and a variety of instruments belonging to the +chase. A travelling table, with maps and a few books, stood +against the wall, and one more article completed our +furniture,--an exceedingly neat toilet table, the base of which +was a flat-topped portmanteau, concealed by a cunning device of +chintz and muslin; this, covered with the usual arrangement of +brushes, mirror, scent-bottles, &c. threw an air of civilization +over the establishment, which was increased by the presence of an +immense sponging-bath, that, being flat and circular, could be +fitted underneath a bed. In the draught of air next the door +stood our filter in a wooden frame, beneath which was a porous +jar that received and cooled the clear water as it fell. + +Our camp was a perfect model; we had a view of about five miles +in extent along the valley of the Atbara, and it was my daily +amusement to scan with my telescope the uninhabited country upon +the opposite side of the river, and watch the wild animals as +they grazed in perfect security. I regret that at that time I did +not smoke; in the cool of the evening we used to sit by the +bamboo table outside the door of our house, and drink our coffee +in perfect contentment amidst the beautiful scene of a tropical +sunset and the deep shadows in the valley; but a pipe! --the long +"chibbook" of the Turk would have made our home a Paradise! +Nevertheless we were thoroughly happy at Sofi;--there was a +delightful calm, and a sense of rest; a total estrangement from +the cares of the world, and an enchanting contrast in the soft +green verdure of the landscape before us to the many hundred +weary miles of burning desert through which we had toiled from +Lower Egypt. In those barren tracts, the eye had become so +accustomed to sterility and yellow sand, that it had appeared +impossible to change the scene, and Africa afforded no prospect +beyond the blank hitherto shown upon the chart of the interior; +we were now in a land of rich pastures, and apparently in another +world, after the toil of a hard life;--it was the haven of a +pilgrim, rest! + +While we were enjoying a few months' repose, the elements were +hard at work. Every day, without exception, and generally for +several hours of the night, the lightning flashed and thunder +roared with little intermission, while the rain poured in such +torrents that the entire country became perfectly impassable, +with the exception of the hard ground of the Atbara valley. The +rich loam of the table land had risen like leavened dough, and +was knee-deep in adhesive mud; the grass upon this surface grew +with such rapidity that in a few weeks it reached a height of +nine or ten feet. The mud rushed in torrents down the countless +watercourses, which were now in their greatest activity in +hurrying away the fertile soil of Egypt; and the glorious Atbara +was at its maximum. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT. + +TIME glided away smoothly at our camp amidst the storms of the +rainy season. The Arabs had nothing to do, and suffered much from +the absence of their herds, as there was a great scarcity of +milk. The only animals that had not been sent to the north were +a few goats; these were so teased by the flies that they produced +but a small supply. Fever had appeared at the same time with the +flies, and every one was suffering more or less, especially +Florian, who was seriously ill. I was in full practice as +physician, and we congratulated ourselves upon the healthiness of +our little isolated camp, when suddenly my wife was prostrated by +a severe attack of gastric fever, which for nine days rendered +her recovery almost hopeless. At length the fever gave way to +careful attendance, and my Arab patients and Florian were also in +a fair way towards recovery. The plagues of Egypt were upon us; +the common house-flies were in billions, in addition to the +cattle-tormentor. Our donkeys would not graze, but stood day and +night in the dense smoke of fires, made of sticks and green +grass, for protection. + +The plague of boils broke out, and every one was attacked more or +less severely. Then came a plague of which Moses must have been +ignorant, or he would surely have inflicted it upon Pharaoh. This +was a species of itch, which affected all ages and both sexes +equally; it attacked all parts of the body, but principally the +extremities. The irritation was beyond description; small +vesicles rose above the skin, containing a watery fluid, which, +upon bursting, appeared to spread the disease. The Arabs had no +control over this malady, which they called "coorash," and the +whole country was scratching. The popular belief attributed the +disease to the water of the Atbara at this particular season: +although a horrible plague, I do not believe it to have any +connexion with the well-known itch or "scabies" of Europe. + +I adopted a remedy that I had found a specific for mange in dogs, +and this treatment became equally successful in cases of coorash. +Gunpowder, with the addition of one-fourth of sulphur, made into +a soft paste with water, and then formed into an ointment with +fat: this should be rubbed over the whole body. The effect upon +a black man is that of a well-cleaned boot--upon a white man it +is still more striking; but it quickly cures the malady. I went +into half mourning by this process, and I should have adopted +deep mourning had it been necessary; I was only attacked from the +feet to a little above the knees. Florian was in a dreadful +state, and the vigorous and peculiar action of his arms at once +explained the origin of the term "Scotch fiddle," the musical +instrument commonly attributed to the north of Great Britain. + +The Arabs are wretchedly ignorant of the healing art, and they +suffer accordingly. At least fifty per cent. of the population in +Sofi had a permanent enlargement of the spleen, which could be +felt with a slight pressure of the hand, frequently as large as +an orange; this was called "Jenna el Wirde" (child of the fever), +and was the result of constant attacks of fever in successive +rainy seasons. + +Faith is the drug that is supposed to cure the Arab; whatever his +complaint may be, he applies to his Faky or priest. This minister +is not troubled with a confusion of book-learning, neither are +the shelves of his library bending beneath weighty treatises upon +the various maladies of human nature; but he possesses the key to +all learning, the talisman that will apply to all cases, in that +one holy book the Koran. This is his complete pharmacopoeia: his +medicine chest, combining purgatives, blisters, sudorifics, +styptics, narcotics, emetics, and all that the most profound M.D. +could prescribe. With this "multum in parvo" stock-in-trade the +Faky receives his patients. No. 1 arrives, a barren woman who +requests some medicine that will promote the blessing of +childbirth. No. 2, a man who was strong in his youth, but from +excessive dissipation has become useless. No. 3, a man deformed +from his birth, who wishes to become straight as other men. No. +4, a blind child. No. 5, a dying old woman, carried on a litter; +and sundry other impossible cases, with others of a more simple +character. + +The Faky produces his book, the holy Koran, and with a pen formed +of a reed he proceeds to write a prescription; not to be made up +by an apothecary, as such dangerous people do not exist, but the +prescription itself is to be SWALLOWED! Upon a smooth board, like +a slate, he rubs sufficient lime to produce a perfectly white +surface; upon this he writes in large characters, with thick +glutinous ink, a verse or verses from the Koran that he considers +applicable to the case; this completed, he washes off the holy +quotation, and converts it into a potation by the addition of a +little water; this is swallowed in perfect faith by the patient, +who in return pays a fee according to the demand of the Faky. Of +course it cannot be supposed that this effects a cure, or that it +is in any way superior to the prescriptions of a thorough-bred +English doctor; the only advantage possessed by the system is +complete innocence, in which it may perhaps claim superiority. If +no good result is attained by the first holy dose, the patient +returns with undiminished confidence, and the prescription is +repeated as "the draught as before," well known to the +physic-drinkers of England, and in like manner attended with the +bill. The fakeers make a considerable amount by this simple +practice, and they add to their small earnings by the sale of +verses of the Koran as talismans. + +As few people can read or write, there is an air of mystery in +the art of writing which much enhances the value of a scrap of +paper upon which is written a verse from the Koran. A few +piastres are willingly expended in the purchase of such +talismans, which are carefully and very neatly sewn into small +envelopes of leather, and are worn by all people, being handed +down from father to son. + +The Arabs are especially fond of relics; thus, upon the return +from a pilgrimage to Mecca, the "hadji," or pilgrim, is certain +to have purchased from some religious Faky of the sacred shrine +either a few square inches of cloth, or some such trifle, that +belonged to the prophet Mahomet. This is exhibited to his friends +and strangers as a wonderful spell against some particular +malady, and it is handed about and received with extreme +reverence by the assembled crowd. I once formed one of a circle +when a pilgrim returned to his native village: we sat in a +considerable number upon the ground, while he drew from his bosom +a leather envelope, suspended from his neck, from which he +produced a piece of extremely greasy woollen cloth, about three +inches square, the original colour of which it would have been +impossible to guess. This was a piece of Mahomet's garment, but +what portion he could not say. The pilgrim had paid largely for +this blessed relic, and it was passed round our circle from hand +to hand, after having first been kissed by the proprietor, who +raised it to the crown of his head, which he touched with the +cloth, and then wiped both his eyes. Each person who received it +went through a similar performance, and as ophthalmia and other +diseases of the eyes were extremely prevalent, several of the +party had eyes that had not the brightness of the gazelle's; +nevertheless, these were supposed to become brighter after having +been wiped by the holy cloth. How many eyes this same piece of +cloth had wiped it would be impossible to say, but such facts are +sufficient to prove the danger of holy relics, that are +inoculators of all manner of contagious diseases. + +I believe in holy shrines as the pest spots of the world. We +generally have experienced in Western Europe that all violent +epidemics arrive from the East. The great breadth of the Atlantic +boundary would naturally protect us from the West, but infectious +disorders, such as plague, cholera, small-pox, &c. may be +generally tracked throughout their gradations from their original +nests; those nests are in the East, where the heat of the climate +acting upon the filth of semi-savage communities engenders +pestilence. + +The holy places of both Christians and Mahometans are the +receptacles for the masses of people of all nations and classes +who have arrived from all points of the compass; the greater +number of such people are of poor estate; many, who have toiled +on foot from immense distances, suffering from hunger and +fatigue, and bringing with them not only the diseases of their +own remote countries, but arriving in that weak state that courts +the attack of any epidemic. Thus crowded together, with a +scarcity of provisions, a want of water, and no possibility of +cleanliness, with clothes that have been unwashed for weeks or +months, in a camp of dirty pilgrims, without any attempt at +drainage, an accumulation of filth takes place that generates +either cholera or typhus; the latter, in its most malignant form, +appears as the dreaded "plague." Should such an epidemic attack +the mass of pilgrims debilitated by the want of nourishing food, +and exhausted by their fatiguing march, it runs riot like a fire +among combustibles, and the loss of life is terrific. The +survivors radiate from this common centre, upon their return to +their respective homes, to which they carry the seeds of the +pestilence to germinate upon new soils in different countries. +Doubtless the clothes of the dead furnish materials for +innumerable holy relics as vestiges of the wardrobe of the +Prophet; these are disseminated by the pilgrims throughout all +countries, pregnant with disease; and, being brought into +personal contact with hosts of true believers, Pandora's box +could not be more fatal. + +Not only are relics upon a pocket scale conveyed by pilgrims, and +reverenced by the Arabs, but the body of any Faky, who in +lifetime was considered extra holy, is brought from a great +distance to be interred in some particular spot. In countries +where a tree is a rarity, a plank for a coffin is unknown; thus +the reverend Faky, who may have died of typhus, is wrapped in +cloths and packed in a mat. In this form he is transported, +perhaps, some hundred miles, slung upon a camel, with the +thermometer above 130 degrees Fahr. in the sun, and he is +conveyed to the village that is so fortunate as to be honoured +with his remains. It may be readily imagined that with a +favourable wind, the inhabitants are warned of his approach some +time before his arrival. Happily, long before we arrived at Sofi, +the village had been blessed by the death of a celebrated Faky, +a holy man who would have been described as a second Isaiah were +the annals of the country duly chronicled. This great "man of +God," as he was termed, had departed this life at a village on +the borders of the Nile, about eight days' hard camel-journey +from Sofi; but from some assumed right, mingled no doubt with +jobbery, the inhabitants of Sofi had laid claim to his body, and +he had arrived upon a camel horizontally, and had been buried +about fifty yards from our present camp. His grave was beneath a +clump of mimosas that shaded the spot, and formed the most +prominent object in the foreground of our landscape. Thither +every Friday the women of the village congregated, with offerings +of a few handfuls of dhurra in small gourd-shells, which they +laid upon the grave, while they ATE THE HOLY EARTH in small +pinches, which they scraped like rabbits, from a hole they had +burrowed towards the venerated corpse; this hole was about two +feet deep from continual scratching, and must have been very near +the Faky. + +Although bamboos did not grow in Sofi, great numbers were brought +down by the river during the rains; these were eagerly collected +by the Arabs, and the grave of the Faky was ornamented with +selected specimens, upon which were hung small pieces of rag-like +banners. The people could not explain why they were thus +ornamented, but I imagine the custom had originated from the +necessity of scaring the wild animals that might have exhumed the +body. + +Although the grave of this revered Faky was considered a sacred +spot, the women had a curious custom that we should not consider +an honour to the sanctity of the place: they met in parties +beneath the shade of the mimosas that covered the grave, for the +express purpose of freeing each other's heads from vermin; the +creatures thus caught, instead of being killed, were turned loose +upon the Faky. + +Although the Arabs in places remote from the immediate action of +the Egyptian authorities are generally lawless, they are +extremely obedient to their own sheiks, and especially to the +fakeers: thus it is important to secure such heads of the people +as friends. My success as a physician had gained me many friends, +as I studiously avoided the acceptance of any present in return +for my services, which I wished them to receive as simple acts of +kindness; thus I had placed the Sheik Hassan bel Kader under an +obligation, by curing him of a fever; and as he chanced to +combine in his own person the titles of both sheik and faky, I +had acquired a great ascendency in the village, as my medicines +had proved more efficacious than the talismans. "Physician, cure +thyself," applied to the Faky, who found three grains of my +tartar emetic more powerful than a whole chapter of the Koran. + +We frequently had medical discussions, and the contents of my +large medicine-chest were examined with wonder by a curious +crowd; the simple effect of mixing a seidlitz powder was a source +of astonishment; but a few drops of sulphuric acid upon a piece +of strong cotton cloth which it destroyed immediately, was a +miracle that invested the medicine-chest with a specific +character for all diseases. The Arab style of doctoring is rather +rough. If a horse or other animal has inflammation, they hobble +the legs and throw it upon the ground, after which operation a +number of men kick it in the belly until it is relieved--(by +death). Should a man be attacked with fever, his friends +prescribe a system of diet, in addition to the Koran of the Faky: +he is made to drink, as hot as he can swallow it, about a quart +of melted sheep's fat or butter. Young dogs, as a cure for +distemper, are thrown from the roof of a house to the ground--a +height of about ten feet. One night we were sitting at dinner, +when we suddenly heard a great noise, and the air was illumined +by the blaze of a hut on fire. In the midst of the tumult I heard +the unmistakeable cries of dogs, and thinking that they were +unable to escape from the fire, I ran towards the spot. As I +approached, first one and then another dog ran screaming from the +flames, until a regular pack of about twenty scorched animals +appeared in quick succession, all half mad with fright and fire. +I was informed that hydrophobia was very prevalent in the +country, and that the certain preventive from that frightful +malady was to make all the dogs of the village pass through the +fire. Accordingly an old hut had been filled with straw and +fired; after which, each dog was brought by its owner and thrown +into the flames. Upon another occasion I heard a great yelling +and commotion, and I found Mahomet's "mother's brother's cousin's +sister's mother's son," Achmet, struggling on the ground, and +nearly overpowered by a number of Arabs, who were determined to +operate upon a large boil in his groin, which they had condemned +to be squeezed, although it was not in a state that admitted of +such treatment. The patient was biting and kicking liberally on +all sides in self-defence, and his obstinate surgeons could +hardly be persuaded to desist. + +Syphilis is common throughout the country, and there are several +varieties of food that are supposed to effect a cure. A sheep is +killed, and the entire flesh is cooked with the fat, being cut +into small pieces and baked in a pot; several pounds of butter or +other grease are then boiled, and in that state are poured into +the jars containing the baked meat; the patient is then shut up +by himself in a hut with this large quantity of fat food, with +which he is to gorge himself until the whole is consumed. Another +supposed cure for the same disease is a pig dressed in a similar +manner, which meat, although forbidden by the Koran, may be taken +medicinally. The flesh of the crocodile is eaten greedily, being +supposed to promote desire. There are few animals that the Arabs +of the Nubian provinces will refuse; the wild boar is invariably +eaten by the Arab hunters, although in direct opposition to the +rules of the Koran. I once asked them what their Faky would say +if he were aware of such a transgression. "Oh !" they replied, +"we have already asked his permission, as we are sometimes +severely pressed for food in the jungles; he says, 'If you have +the KORAN in your hand and NO PIG, you are forbidden to eat pork; +but if you have the PIG in your hand and NO KORAN, you had better +eat what God has given you.'" + +This is a charming example of simplicity in theological +discussion that might perhaps be followed with advantage in +graver questions; we might cease to strain at the gnats and +swallow our pigs. + +I had an audience of a party of hunters whom I had long wished to +meet. Before my arrival at Sofi I had heard of a particular tribe +of Arabs that inhabited the country south of Cassala, between +that town and the Base country; these were the Hamrans, who were +described as the most extraordinary Nimrods, who hunted and kiled +all wild animals, from the antelope to the elephant, with no +other weapon than the sword; the lion and the rhinoceros fell +alike before the invincible sabres of these mighty hunters, to +whom as an old elephant-hunter I wished to make my salaam, and +humbly confess my inferiority. + +From the manner in which their exploits had been hitherto +explained to me, I could not understand how it could be possible +to kill an elephant with the sword, unless the animal should be +mobbed by a crowd of men and hacked to death, but I was assured +that the most savage elephant had no chance upon good riding +ground, against four aggageers (as the hunters with the sword are +designated). I had determined to engage a party of these hunters +to accompany me throughout my exploration of the Abyssinian +rivers at the proper season, when I should have an excellent +opportunity of combining sport with an examination of the +country. My intentions had become known, and the visit of the +hunters was the consequence. + +The Hamran Arabs are distinguished from the other tribes by an +extra length of hair, worn parted down the centre, and arranged +in long curls; otherwise there is no perceptible difference in +their appearance from other Arabs. They are armed, as are all +others, with swords and shields; the latter are circular, and are +generally formed of rhinoceros hide. There are two forms of +shields used by the various tribes of Arabs: one is a narrow +oval, about four feet in length, of either bull's or buffalo's +hide, stiffened by a strong stick which passes down the centre; +the other is circular, about two feet in diameter, with a +projection in the centre as a protection for the hand. When laid +flat upon the ground, the shield somewhat resembles an immensely +broad-brimmed hat, with a low crown terminating in a point. In +the inside of the crown is a strong bar of leather as a grip for +the hand, while the outside is generally guarded by a strip of +the scaly hide of a crocodile. + +The skins most prized for shields are those of the giraffe and +the rhinoceros; those of the buffalo and elephant are likewise in +genera] use, but they are considered inferior to the former, +while the hide of the hippopotamus is too thick and heavy. + +The hide of the giraffe is wonderfully tough, and combines the +great advantage of extreme lightness with strength. The Arabs +never ornament their shields; they are made for rough and actual +service, and the gashes upon many are proofs of the necessity of +such a protection for the owner. + +Although there are two patterns of shields among the Arabs, there +is no difference in the form of their swords, which simply vary +in size according to the strength of the wearer. The blade is +long and straight, two-edged, with a simple cross handle, having +no other guard for the hand than the plain bar, which at right +angles with the hilt forms the cross. I believe this form was +adopted after the Crusades, when the long, straight, +cross-handled blades of the Christian knights left an impression +behind them that established the fashion. All these blades are +manufactured at Sollingen, and are exported to Egypt for the +trade of the interior. Of course they differ in quality and +price, but they are of excellent temper. The Arabs are extremely +proud of a good sword, and a blade of great value is carefully +handed down through many generations. The sheiks and principal +people wear silver-hilted swords. The scabbards are usually +formed of two thin strips of elastic but soft wood, covered with +leather. No Arab would accept a metal scabbard, as it would +destroy the keen edge of his weapon. The greatest care is taken +in sharpening the swords. While on the march, the Arab carries +his weapon slung on the pommel of his saddle, from which it +passes beneath his thigh. There are two projecting pieces of +leather, about twelve inches apart, upon the scabbard, between +which the thigh of the horseman fits, and thus prevents the sword +from slipping from its place. Carried in this position at full +speed, there is an absence of that absurd dangling and jumping of +the sword that is exhibited in our British cavalry, and the +weapon seems to form a portion of the rider. The first action of +an Arab when he dismounts at a halt upon the march, and sits +beneath a tree, is to draw his sword; and after trying both edges +with his thumb, he carefully strops the blade to and fro upon his +shield until a satisfactory proof of the edge is made by shaving +the hair off his arm, after which it is returned to the sheath. +I have measured these swords; that of a fair average size is +three feet in the length of blade, and one inch and seven-eighths +in breadth; the hilt, from the top of the guard to the extremity, +five and a half inches. Thus the sword complete would be about +three feet five or six inches. Such a weapon possesses immense +power, as the edge is nearly as sharp as a razor. But the Arabs +have not the slightest knowledge of swordsmanship; they never +parry with the blade, but trust entirely to the shield, and +content themselves with slashing either at their adversary or at +the animal that he rides; one good cut delivered by a powerful +arm would sever a man at the waist like a carrot. The Arabs are +not very powerful men; they are extremely light and active, and +generally average about five feet eight inches in height. But +their swords are far too heavy for their strength; and although +they can deliver a severe cut, they cannot recover the sword +sufficiently quick to parry, therefore they are contented with +the shield as their only guard. If opposed to a good swordsman +they would be perfectly at his mercy, as a feint at the head +causes them to raise the shield; this prevents them from seeing +the point, that would immediately pass through the body. + +Notwithstanding their deficiency in the art of the sword, they +are wonderful fellows to cut and slash; and when the sharp edge +of the heavy weapon touches an enemy, the effect is terrible. + +The elephant-hunters, or aggageers, exhibited their swords, which +differed in no respect from those usually worn; but they were +bound with cord very closely from the guard for about nine inches +along the blade, to enable them to be grasped by the right hand, +while the hilt was held by the left; the weapon was thus +converted into a two-handed sword. The scabbards were +strengthened by an extra covering, formed of the skin of the +elephant's ear. + +In a long conversation with these men, I found a corroboration of +all that I had previously heard of their exploits, and they +described the various methods of killing the elephant with the +sword. Those hunters who could not afford to purchase horses +hunted on foot, in parties not exceeding two persons. Their +method was to follow the tracks of an elephant, so as to arrive +at their game between the hours of 10 A.M. and noon, at which +time the animal is either asleep, or extremely listless, and easy +to approach. Should they discover the animal asleep, one of the +hunters would creep stealthily towards the head, and with one +blow sever the trunk while stretched upon the ground; in which +case the elephant would start upon his feet, while the hunters +escaped in the confusion of the moment. The trunk severed would +cause an haemorrhage sufficient to insure the death of the +elephant within about an hour. On time other hand, should the +animal be awake upon their arrival, it would be impossible to +approach the trunk; in such a case, they would creep up from +behind, and give a tremendous cut at the back sinew of the hind +leg, about a foot above the heel. Such a blow would disable the +elephant at once, and would render comparatively easy a second +cut to the remaining leg; the arteries being divided, the animal +would quickly bleed to death. These were the methods adopted by +poor hunters, until, by the sale of ivory, they could purchase +horses for the higher branch of the art. Provided with horses, +the party of hunters should not exceed four. They start before +daybreak, and ride slowly throughout the country in search of +elephants, generally keeping along the course of a river until +they come upon the tracks where a herd or a single elephant may +have drunk during the night. When once upon the tracks, they +follow fast towards the retreating game. The elephants may be +twenty miles distant; but it matters little to the aggageers. At +length they discover them, and the hunt begins. The first step is +to single out the bull with the largest tusks; this is the +commencement of the fight. After a short hunt, the elephant turns +upon his pursuers, who scatter and fly from his headlong charge +until he gives up the pursuit; he at length turns to bay when +again pressed by the hunters. It is the duty of one man in +particular to ride up close to the head of the elephant, and thus +to absorb its attention upon himself. This insures a desperate +charge. The greatest coolness and dexterity are then required by +the hunter, who now, the HUNTED, must so adapt the speed of his +horse to the pace of the elephant, that the enraged beast gains +in the race until it almost reaches the tail of the horse. In +this manner the race continues. In the meantime, two hunters +gallop up behind the elephant, unseen by the animal, whose +attention is completely directed to the horse almost within his +grasp. With extreme agility, when close to the heels of the +elephant, one of the hunters, while at full speed, springs to the +ground with his drawn sword, as his companion seizes the bridle, +and with one dexterous two-handed blow he severs the back sinew. +He immediately jumps out of the way and remounts his horse; but +if the blow is successful, the elephant becomes disabled by the +first pressure of its foot upon the ground; the enormous weight +of the animal dislocates the joint, and it is rendered helpless. +The hunter who has hitherto led the elephant immediately turns, +and riding to within a few feet of the trunk, he induces the +animal to attempt another charge. This, clumsily made, affords an +easy opportunity for the aggageers behind to slash the sinew of +the remaining leg, and the immense brute is reduced to a +standstill; it dies of loss of blood in a short time, THUS +POSITIVELY KILLED BY ONE MAN WITH TWO STROKES OF THE SWORD! + +This extraordinary hunting is attended with superlative danger, +and the hunters frequently fall victims to their intrepidity. I +felt inclined to take off my cap and make a low bow to the +gallant and swarthy fellows who sat before me, when I knew the +toughness of their hearts and the activity of their limbs. One of +them was disabled for life by a cut from his own sword, that had +severed the knee-cap and bitten deep into the joint, leaving a +scar that appeared as though the leg had been nearly off; he had +missed his blow at the elephant, owing to the high and tough +dried grass that had partially stopped the sword, and in +springing upon one side, to avoid the animal that had turned upon +him, he fell over his own sharp blade, which cut through the +bone, and he lay helpless; he was saved by one of his comrades, +who immediately rushed in from behind, and with a desperate cut +severed the back sinew of the elephant. As I listened to these +fine fellows, who in a modest and unassuming manner recounted +their adventures as matters of course, I felt exceedingly small. +My whole life had been passed in wild sports from early manhood, +and I had imagined that I understood as much as most people of +this subject; but here were men who, without the aid of the best +rifles and deadly projectiles, went straight at their game, and +faced the lion in his den with shield and sabre. There is a +freemasonry among hunters, and my heart was drawn towards these +aggageers. We fraternised upon the spot, and I looked forward +with intense pleasure to the day when we might become allies in +action. + +I have been rewarded by this alliance in being now able to speak +of the deeds of others that far excel my own, and of bearing +testimony to the wonderful courage and dexterity of these +Nimrods, instead of continually relating anecdotes of dangers in +the first person, which cannot be more disagreeable to the reader +than to the narrator. + +Without inflicting a description of five months passed in Sofi, +it will be necessary to make a few extracts from my journal, to +convey an idea of the manner in which the time was occupied. + +"August 7, 1861.--There is plenty of game on the other side of +the river, but nothing upon this; there are no means of crossing, +as the stream is exceedingly strong, and about two hundred yards +in width. We felled a tree for a canoe, but there is nothing +worthy of the name of timber, and the wood is extremely heavy. + +"There are several varieties of wild spinach, and a plant that +makes a good salad, known by the Arabs as 'Regly;' also wild +onions as large as a man's fist, but uneatable. + +"Angust 8.--I counted seventy-six giraffes on the opposite side +of the river. This magnificent sight is most tantalizing. The +sheik made his appearance to-day with a present of butter and +honey, and some small money in exchange for dollars that I had +given him. The Austrian dollar of Maria Theresa is the only large +coin current in this country; the effigy of the empress, with a +very low dress and a profusion of bust, is, I believe, the charm +that suits the Arab taste. So particular are these people, that +they reject the coin after careful examination, unless they can +distinctly count seven dots that form the star upon the coronet. +No clean money will pass current in this country; all coins must +be dirty and gummy, otherwise they are rejected: this may be +accounted for, as the Arabs have no method of detecting false +money; thus they are afraid to accept any new coin. + +"Auqust 16.--Great failure! We launched the canoe, but although +it was carefully hollowed out, the wood was so heavy that it +would only carry one person, and even then it threatened to +become a bathing-machine; thus nine days' hard work are lost. +Florian is in despair, but 'Nil desperandum!' I shall set to work +instanter, and make a raft. Counted twenty-eight giraffes on the +opposite side of the river. + +"August 17.--I set to work at daybreak to make a raft of bamboo +and inflated skins. There is a wood called ambatch (Anemone +mirabilis) that is brought down by the river from the upper +country; this is lighter than cork, and I have obtained four +large pieces for my raft. Mahomet has been very saucy to-day; he +has been offensively impertinent for a long time, so this morning +I punched his head. + +"August 18.--Launched the raft; it carries four persons safely; +but the current is too strong, and it is therefore unmanageable. +In the afternoon I shot a large crocodile on the other side of +the river (about two hundred yards) with the little Fletcher +rifle, and after struggling for some time upon the steep bank it +rolled into the water. + +"The large tamarind trees on the opposite bank are generally full +of the dog-faced baboons (Cynocephalus) in the evening, at their +drinking-hour. I watched a large crocodile creep slyly out of the +water, and lie in waiting among the rocks at the usual +drinking-place before they arrived, but the baboons were too wide +awake to be taken in so easily. A young fellow was the first to +discover the enemy; he had accompanied several wise and +experienced old hands, to the extremity of the bough that at a +considerable height overhung the river; from this post they had +a bird's-eye view, and reconnoitred before one of the numerous +party descended to drink. The sharp eyes of the young one at once +detected the crocodile, who matched in colour so well with the +rocks, that most probably a man would not have noticed it until +too late. At once the young one commenced shaking the bough and +screaming with all his might to attract the attention of the +crocodile, and to induce it to move. In this he was immediately +joined by the whole party, who yelled in chorus, while the large +old males bellowed defiance, and descended to the lowest branches +within eight or ten feet of the crocodile. It was of no use--the +pretender never stirred, and I watched it until dark; it remained +still inn the same place, waiting for some unfortunate baboon +whose thirst might provoke his fate; but not one was sufficiently +foolish, although the perpendicular banks prevented them from +drinking except at that particular spot. + +"The birds in this country moult twice during the year, and those +of the most brilliant colours exchange their gaudy hues for a +sober grey or brown. Several varieties sing beautifully; the +swallow also sings, although in Europe I have never heard it +attempt more than its well-known twitter. + +"One of the mimosas yields an excellent fibre for rope-making, in +which my people are busily engaged; the bark is as tough as +leather, and forms an admirable material for the manufacture of +sacks. This business is carried to a considerable extent by the +Arabs, as there is a large demand for sacks of sufficient size to +contain two hundred and fifty or three hundred pounds of gum +arabic (half a camel load). Thus one sack slung upon each side +can be packed easily to the animal. + +"August 19.--A dead elephant floated down the river to-day: this +is the second that has passed within the last few days; they have +been most probably drowned in attempting to cross some powerful +torrent tributary to the Atbara. As usual, upon the fact becoming +known, the entire village rushed out, and, despite the +crocodiles, a crowd of men plunged into the river about a quarter +of a mile below Sofi, and swimming out they intercepted the +swollen carcase, which was quickly covered with people; they were +carried several miles down the river before they could tow the +body to shore, by ropes fastened to the swimmers. Afterwards, +there was a general quarrel over the division of the spoil: the +skin, in sections, and the tusks, were brought home in triumph. + +"The country being now bright green, the antelopes are distinctly +visible on the opposite side. Three tetel (Antelopus Bubalis) +graze regularly together in the same place daily. This antelope +is a variety of the hartebeest of South Africa; it is a +reddish-chestnut colour, and is about the size of an Alderney +cow. + +"One of the mimosas (Acacia Arabica) produces a fruit in +appearance resembling a tamarind: this is a powerful astringent +and a valuable medicine in cases of fever and diarrhoea; it is +generally used by the Arabs for preparing hides; when dry and +broken it is rich in a hard gum, which appears to be almost pure +tannin. + +"August 20.--Close, hot, and damp weather; violent rain about +sixteen hours out of the twenty-four. When the hot season sets +in, the country will almost boil. This morning I counted 154 +giraffes in one herd on the other side of the river; there were +many more, but they passed each other so rapidly that I could not +reckon the entire troop. + +"August 21.--I counted 103 giraffes. There is literally no game +upon this side (west) of the Atbara, as the country for twelve +hours' journey from Sofi is thronged with Arabs during the dry +season. + +"All my people are more or less ill; I am not very well myself; +but I have staved off an attack of fever by preventive measures. + +"August 25.--Such a magnificent sunset I have never seen! From +all quarters were gathering storms of the blackest description, +each cloud emitting lightning without intermission, and as the +sun touched the horizon upon the only clear point, it illumined +like a fire the pitch-black clouds, producing the most +extraordinary effect of vivid colouring, combined with lightning, +and a rainbow. + +"Rain in torrents throughout the night. It is now impossible to +walk on the flat table land, as the soil is so saturated that it +clings to the feet like birdlime, in masses that will pull the +shoes off unless they fit tight. All this immense tract of rich +land would grow any amount of cotton, or wheat, as in this +country the rain falls with great regularity--this might be sent +to Berber by boats during the season of flood. + +"August 27.--My antelope skins are just completed and are +thoroughly tanned. Each skin required a double handful of the +'garra,' or fruit of the Acacia Arabica. The process is simple: +the skin being thoroughly wetted, the garra is pounded into a +paste; this is rubbed into the hide with a rough piece of +sandstone, until it becomes perfectly clean, and free from +impurities; it is then wrapped up with a quantity of the paste, +and is deposited in a trough and kept in the shade for +twenty-four hours. It should undergo a similar rubbing daily, and +be kept in the trough to soak in the garra for four or five days. +After this process it should be well rubbed with fat, if required +to keep soft and pliable when wetted. If soaked in milk after +tanning, the leather will become waterproof. The large tanned +ox-hides used by the Arabs as coverlets are perfectly waterproof, +and are simply prepared with milk. These are made in Abyssinia, +and can be purchased at from ten piastres to a dollar each. The +Arabs thoroughly appreciate the value of leather, as they are +entirely dependent upon such material for coverlets, watersacks, +travelling bags, &c. &c. The sac de voyage is a simple skin of +either goat or sheep drawn off the animal as a stocking is drawn +from the leg; this is very neatly ornamented, and arranged with +loops which close the mouth, secured by a padlock. Very large +sacks, capable of containing three hundred pounds of corn, are +made in the same manner by drawing off entire the skins of the +larger antelopes--that of the tetel is considered the most +valuable for this purpose. The hide of the wild ass is the finest +of all leather, and is so close in the grain that before tanning, +when dry and hardened in the sun, it resembles horn in +transparency. I have made excellent mocassins with this skin, +which are admirable if kept wetted. + +"August 28.--Sofi being upon the frontier, the laws are merely +nominal; accordingly there is an interesting mixture in the +society. Should any man commit a crime in Abyssinia, he takes +refuge over the border; thus criminals of the blackest character +are at large. One fellow who has paid us daily visits killed his +brother with a knife a few months since. I have excluded this +gentleman from the select circle of our acquaintance. + +"The Arab women are very clever in basket-work and matting--they +carry their milk in baskets that are so closely fitted as to be +completely water-tight; these are made of the leaves of the dome +palm, shred into fine strips. In addition to the coarse matting +required for their tents, they manufacture very fine sleeping +mats, curiously arranged in various coloured patterns; these are +to cover the angareps, or native bedsteads, which are simple +frameworks upon legs, covered with a network of raw hide worked +in a soft state, after which it hardens to the tightness of a +drum when thoroughly dry. No bed is more comfortable for a warm +climate than a native angarep with a simple mat covering; it is +beautifully elastic, and is always cool, as free ventilation is +permitted from below. I have employed the Arab women to make me +a hunting-cap of the basket-work of dome palm, to my old pattern. + +"August 28.--I have been busily employed in putting new soles to +my shoes, having cut up the leather cover of a gun-case for +material. No person can walk barefooted in this country, as the +grass is armed with thorns. A peculiar species, that resembles a +vetch, bears a circular pod as large as a horse-bean; the +exterior of the pod is armed with long and sharp spikes like the +head of an ancient mace; these pods when ripe are exceedingly +hard, and falling to the ground in great numbers, the spikes will +pierce the sole of any shoe unless of a stout substance. + +"August 29.--Florian is very ill with fever. The mosquitoes are +so troublesome that the Arabs cannot sleep in their huts, but are +forced to arrange platforms about six feet high, upon which the +whole family rest until they are awakened by a sudden +thunderstorm, and are compelled to rush into their huts;--this +has been the case nightly for some time past. + +"I find that the whole village has been trying on my new +hunting-cap, that an Arab woman has just completed; this was +brought to me to-day, thick with butter and dirt from their +greasy pates. This is a trifle: yesterday Florian was ill and +required some tea; his servant tried the degree of heat by +plunging his dirty black finger to the bottom. + +"Shortly after our wild Arab lad, Bacheet, was engaged, we +drilled him as table servant. The flies were very troublesome, +and continually committed suicide by drowning themselves in the +tea. One morning during breakfast there were many cases of felo +de se, or 'temporary insanity,' and my wife's tea-cup was full of +victims; Bacheet, wishing to be attentive, picked out the bodies +with his finger and thumb!--'Now, my good fellow, Bacheet,' I +exclaimed, 'you really must not put your dirty fingers in the +tea: you should take them out with the tea-spoon. Look here,' and +I performed the operation, and safely landed several flies that +were still kicking. 'But mind, Bacheet,' I continued, 'that you +wipe the tea-spoon first, to be sure that it is clean!' On the +following morning at breakfast we covered up the cups with +saucers to prevent accidents; but to our astonishment Bacheet, +who was in waiting, suddenly took a tea-spoon from the table, +wiped it carefully with a corner of the table-cloth, and stooping +down beneath the bed, most carefully saved from drowning, with +the tea-spoon, several flies that were in the last extremity +within a vessel by no means adapted for a spoon. Perfectly +satisfied with the result, he carefully rewiped the tea-spoon +upon the table-cloth, and replaced it in its proper position. 'Oh +Bacheet! Bacheet! you ignoramus, you extraordinary and impossible +animal!' However, there was no help for it--the boy thought he +was doing the right thing exactly. + +"September 1.--The animals are worried almost to death by the +countless flies, especially by that species that drives the +camels from the country. This peculiar fly is about the size of +a wasp, with an orange-coloured body, with black and white rings; +the proboscis is terrific; it is double, and appears to be +disproportioned, being two-thirds the length of the entire +insect. When this fly attacks an animal, or man, it pierces the +skin instantaneously, like the prick of a red-hot needle driven +deep into the flesh, at the same time the insect exerts every +muscle of its body by buzzing with its wings as it buries the +instrument to its greatest depth. The blood starts from the wound +immediately, and continues to flow for a considerable time; this +is an attraction to other flies in great numbers, many of which +would lay their eggs upon the wound. + +"I much prefer the intense heat of summer to the damp of the +rainy season, which breeds all kinds of vermin. During the hot +season the nights are cool and delightful, there is not one drop +of dew, and we live entirely in the open air beneath the shade of +a tree in the day, and under a roof of glittering stars at night. +The guns never rust, although lying upon the ground, and we are +as independent as the antelopes of the desert, any bush affording +a home within its limit of shadow. During the rainy season +hunting and travelling would be equally impossible; the rifles +would constantly miss fire. The mud is in most places knee-deep, +and a malignant fever would shortly settle the hunter. The rains +cease early in September, after which we are to expect a complete +vapour-bath until the end of October, by which time the fiery sun +will have evaporated the moisture from the sodden earth; that +interval will be the most unhealthy season. + +"As this fertile country can depend upon three months' periodical +rain, from the middle of June until September there is no reason +for unproductiveness; it would produce a large revenue if in +industrious hands. + +"September 2.--For many days past we have seen large herds of +giraffes and many antelopes on the opposite side of the river, +about two miles distant, on the borders of the Atbara, into which +valley the giraffes apparently dared not descend but remained on +the table land, although the antelopes appearmed to prefer the +harder soil of the valley slopes. This day a herd of twenty-eight +giraffes tantalized me by descending a short distance below the +level flats, and I was tempted at all hazards across the river. +Accordingly preparations were immediately made for a start. The +sheik of the village and several of the Arabs were hippopotami +hunters by profession; these fellows could swim like otters, and, +despite the crocodiles, they seemed as much at home in the water +as on land. We prepared an impromptu raft. My angarep (bedstead) +was quickly inverted; six water-skins were inflated, and lashed, +three on either side. A shallow packing-case, lined with tin, +containing my gun, was fastened in the centre of the angarep, and +two tow-lines were attached to the front part of the raft, by +which swimmers were to draw it across the river. Two men were to +hang on behind, and, if possible, keep it straight in the rapid +current. + +"The Arabs were full of mettle, as their minds were fixed upon +giraffe venison. A number of people, including my wife, climbed +upon the mosquito platforms, to obtain a good view of the +projected hunt, and we quickly carried our raft to the edge of +the river. There was not much delay in the launch. I stepped +carefully into my coffin-shaped case, and squatted down, with a +rifle on either side, and my ammunition at the bottom of the +tin-lined water-proof case; thus, in case of an upset, I was +ready for a swim. Off we went! The current, running at nearly +five miles an hour, carried us away at a great pace, and the +whirlpools caused us much trouble, as we several times waltzed +round when we should have preferred a straight course, but the +towing swimmers being well mounted upon logs of light +ambatch-wood, swam across in fine style, and after some +difficulty we arrived at the opposite bank, and scrambled through +thick bushes, upon our hands and knees, to the summit. + +"For about two miles' breadth on this side of the river the +valley is rough broken ground, full of gullies and ravines sixty +or seventy feet deep, beds of torrents, bare sandstone rocks, +bushy crags, fine grassy knolls, and long strips of mimosa +covert, forming a most perfect locality for shooting. + +"I had observed by the telescope that the giraffes were standing +as usual upon an elevated position, from whence they could keep +a good look-out. I knew it would be useless to ascend the slope +direct, as their long necks give these animals an advantage +similar to that of the man at the mast-head; therefore, although +we had the wind in our favour, we should have been observed. I +therefore determined to make a great circuit of about five miles, +and thus to approach them from above, with the advantage of the +broken ground for stalking. It was the perfection of uneven +country: by clambering broken cliff, wading shoulder-deep through +muddy gullies, sliding down the steep ravines, and winding +through narrow bottoms of high grass and mimosas for about two +hours, during which we disturbed many superb nellut (Ant. +strepsiceros) and tetel (Ant. Bubalis), we at length arrived at +the point of the high table land upon the verge of which I had +first noticed the giraffes with the telescope. Almost immediately +I distinguished the tall neck of one of these splendid animals +about half a mile distant upon my left, a little below the table +land; it was feeding on the bushes, and I quickly discovered +several others near the leader of the herd. I was not far enough +advanced in the circuit that I had intended to bring me exactly +above them, therefore I turned sharp to my right, intending to +make a short half circle, and to arrive on the leeward side of +the herd, as I was now to windward: this I fortunately completed, +but I had marked a thick bush as my point of cover, and upon +arrival I found that the herd had fed down wind, and that I was +within two hundred yards of the great bull sentinel that, having +moved from his former position, was now standing directly before +me. I lay down quietly behind the bush with my two followers, and +anxiously watched the great leader, momentarily expecting that it +would get my wind. It was shortly joined by two others, and I +perceived the heads of several giraffes lower down the incline, +that were now feeding on their way to the higher ground. The +seroot fly was teasing them, and I remarked that several birds +were fluttering about their heads, sometimes perching upon their +noses and catching the fly that attacked their nostrils, while +the giraffes appeared relieved by their attentions: these were a +peculiar species of bird that attacks the domestic animals, and +not only relieves them of vermin, but eats into the flesh, and +establishes dangerous sores. A puff of wind now gently fanned the +back of my neck; it was cool and delightful, but no sooner did I +feel the refreshing breeze than I knew it would convey our scent +direct to the giraffes. A few seconds afterwards, the three grand +obelisks threw their heads still higher in the air, and fixing +their great black eyes upon the spot from which the danger came, +they remained as motionless as though carved from stone. From +their great height they could see over the bush behind which we +were lying at some paces distant, and although I do not think +they could distinguish us to be men, they could see enough to +convince them of hidden enemies. + +"The attitude of fixed attention and surprise of the three +giraffes was sufficient warning for the rest of the herd, who +immediately filed up from the lower ground, and joined their +comrades. All now halted, and gazed steadfastly in our direction, +forming a superb tableau; their beautiful mottled skins glancing +like the summer coat of a thoroughbred horse, the orange-coloured +statues standing out in high relief from a background of +dark-green mimosas. + +"This beautiful picture soon changed; I knew that my chance of a +close shot was hopeless, as they would presently make a rush, and +be off; thus I determined to get the first start. I had +previously studied the ground, and I concluded that they would +push forward at right angles with my position, as they had thus +ascended the hill, and that, on reaching the higher ground, they +would turn to the right, in order to reach an immense tract of +high grass, as level as a billiard-table, from which no danger +could approach them unobserved. + +"I accordingly with a gentle movement of my hand directed my +people to follow me, and I made a sudden rush forward at full +speed. Off went the herd; shambling along at a tremendous pace, +whisking their long tails above their hind quarters, and taking +exactly the direction I had anticipated, they offered me a +shoulder shot at a little within two hundred yards' distance. +Unfortunately, I fell into a deep hole concealed by the high +grass, and by the time that I resumed the hunt they had increased +their distance, but I observed the leader turned sharp to the +right, through some low mimosa bush, to make direct for the open +table land. I made a short cut oblquely at my best speed, and +only halted when I saw that I should lose ground by altering my +position. Stopping short, I was exactiy opposite the herd as they +filed by me at right angles in full speed, within about a hundred +and eighty yards. I had my old Ceylon No. 10 double rifle, and I +took a steady shot at a large dark-coloured bull: the +satisfactory sound of the ball upon his hide was followed almost +immediately by his blundering forward for about twenty yards, and +falling heavily in the low bush. I heard the crack of the ball of +my left-hand barrel upon another fine beast, but no effects +followed. Bacheet quickly gave me the single 2-ounce Manton +rifle, and I singled out a fine dark-coloured bull, who fell on +his knees to the shot, but recovering, hobbled off disabled, +apart from the herd, with a foreleg broken just below the +shoulder. Reloading immediately, I ran up to the spot, where I +found my first giraffe lying dead, with the ball clean through +both shoulders: the second was standing about one hundred paces +distant; upon my approach he attempted to move, but immediately +fell, and was despatched by my eager Arabs. I followed the herd +for about a mile to no purpose, through deep clammy ground and +high grass, and I returned to our game. + +"These were my first giraffes, and I admired them as they lay +before me with a hunter's pride and satisfaction, but mingled +with a feeling of pity for such beautiful and utterly helpless +creatures. The giraffe, although from sixteen to twenty feet in +height, is perfectly defenceless, and can only trust to the +swiftness of its pace, and the extraordinary power of vision, for +its means of protection. The eye of this animal is the most +beautiful exaggeration of that of the gazelle, while the colour +of the reddish-orange hide, mottled with darker spots, changes +the tints of the skin with the differing rays of light, according +to the muscular movenment of the body. No one who has merely seen +the giraffe in a cold climate can form the least idea of its +beauty in its native land. By the time that we had skinned one of +the aninmals, it was nearly six o'clock, and it was necessary to +hurry forward to reach the river before night; we therefore +arranged some thorny boughs over the bodies, to which we intended +to return on the following morning. + +"When about half-way to the river, as we were passing through +grass about four feet high, three tetel bounded from a ravine, +and, passing directly before us, gave me a splendid shot at about +sixty yards. The Ceylon No. 10 struck the foremost through the +shoulder, and it fell dead after running a few yards. This was +also my first tetel (Antelopus Bubalis); it was in splendid +condition, the red coat was like satin, and the animal would +weigh about five hundred pounds live weight. + +"I had made very successful shots, having bagged three out of +four large game; this perfectly delighted the Arabs, and was very +satisfactory to myself, as I was quite aware that my men would be +only too willing to accompany me upon future excursions. + +"It was quite dark before we reached the river; we had been much +delayed by repeated falls into deep holes, and over hidden +stones; thus I was well satisfied to find myself once more at +home after having crossed the river, in pitchy darkness, in a +similar manner as before. Every person in the village had had a +good view of the stalk; therefore, as two giraffes had been seen +to fall, the Arabs were waiting on the bank in expectation of +meat. + +"September 3.--This morning I crossed the river with about twenty +men, some swimming with inflated skins, and others supported by +logs of ambatch. A number of swimmers were holding on to a pole +to which four inflated girbas were attached; this is an excellent +plan for assisting soldiers to cross a river, as they can land +together in parties, instead of singly, with their guns dry, +should the opposite bank be occupied by an enemy. I sat in my +gun-case, with the two rifles that I used yesterday, in addition +to the little Fletcher; heaps of clothes and sandals belonging to +the swimmers formed my cargo; while, in case of accident, I had +taken off my belt and shoes, and tied my ammunition within an +inflated skin. Neptune in his car drawn by dolphins was not more +completely at home than I in my gun-case, towed by my fish-like +hippopotami hunters. After pirouetting in several strong +whirlpools, during which time a crowd of women on the Sofi side +of the river were screaming to Allah and the Prophet to protect +us from crocodiles, we at length arrived. + +"We took a direct course towards the animals I had shot on the +previous evening, meeting with no game except a large troop of +dog-faced baboons (Cynocephali), until we reached the body of the +tetel (Antelopus Bubalis), which lay undisturbed; leaving people +to flay it carefully, so that the skin should serve as a water or +corn sack, we continued our path towards the dead giraffes. + +"I had not proceeded far, before I saw, at about a mile distant, +a motionless figure, as though carved from red granite; this I +felt sure was a giraffe acting as sentry for another party that +was not yet in view; I therefore sent my men on towards the dead +giraffes, while, accompanied by Florian's black servant Richarn,* +who was a good sportsman, and a couple of additional men, I +endeavoured to stalk the giraffe. It was impossible to obtain a +favourable wind, without exposing ourselves upon flat ground, +where we should have been immediately perceived; I therefore +arranged that my men should make a long circuit and drive the +giraffe, while I would endeavour to intercept it. This plan +failed; but shortly after the attempt, I observed a herd of about +a hundred of these splendid creatures, browsing on the mimosas +about half a mile distant. For upwards of three hours I employed +every artifice to obtain a shot, but to no purpose, as upon my +approach to within a quarter of a mile, they invariably chose +open ground, leaving a sentry posted behind the herd, while two +or three kept a look-out well in advance. No animal is so +difficult to approach as the giraffe; however, by great patience +and caution, I succeeded in reaching a long and deep ravine, by +which I hoped to arrive within a close shot, as many of the herd +were standing upon the level table-ground, from which this +natural trench suddenly descended. I believe I should have +arrived within fifty yards of the herd by this admirable +approach, had it not been for the unlucky chance that brought me +vis-a-vis with two tetel, that by galloping off attracted the +attention of the giraffes. To add to my misfortune, after a long +and tedious crawl on hands and knees up the narrow amid steep +extremity of the gully, just as I raised my head above the edge +of the table land, expecting to see the giraffes within fifty +paces, I found three gazelles feeding within ten yards of me, +while three magnificent giraffes were standing about a hundred +and fifty yards distant. + + * This faithful black, a native of the White Nile regions, + subsequently became my servant, and, for four years + accompanied us honestly and courageously through all + our difficulties to the Albert N'yanza. + +"Off bounded the gazelles the instant that we were perceived; +they of course gave the alarm immediately, and away went the +giraffes; but I took a quick shot at the great leader as he +turned to the right, and he staggered a few paces and fell +headlong into the bush. Hurrah for the Ceylon No. 10!--however, +neither the second barrel, nor a shot with the Manton 2-ounce, +produced any effect. It was a glorious sight to see the herd of +upwards of a hundred of these superb animals close up at the +alarm of the shots, and pelt away in a dense body through the +dark green mimosa bush that hardly reached to their shoulders; +but pursuit was useless. My giraffe was not quite dead, and, the +throat having been cut by the Arabs and Richarn, we attempted to +flay our game; this was simply impossible. The seroot fly was in +swarms about the carcase, thousands were buzzing about our ears +and biting like bull-dogs: the blood was streaming from our +necks, and, as I wore no sleeves, my naked arms suffered +terribly. I never saw such an extraordinary sight; although we +had killed our giraffe, we could not take possession; it was no +wonder that camels and all domestic animals were killed by this +horrible plague, the only wonder was the possibility of wild +animals resisting the attack. The long tails of the giraffes are +admirable fly-whippers, but they would be of little service +against such a determined and blood-thirsty enemy as the seroot. +They were now like a swarm of bees, and we immediately made war +upon the scourge, by lighting several fires within a few feet to +windward of the giraffe; when the sticks blazed briskly, we piled +green grass upon the tops, and quickly produced a smoke that +vanquished the enemy. + +"It was now about 3 P.M. and intensely hot; I had been in +constant exercise since 6 A.M., therefore I determined upon +luncheon under the shade of a welcome mimosa upon which I had +already hung my water-skin to cool. We cut sonne long thin strips +of flesh from the giraffe, and lighted a fire of dry babanoose +wood expressly for cooking. This species of wood is exceedingly +inflammable, and burns like a torch; it is intensely hard, and in +colour and grain it is similar to lignum vitae. The festoons of +giraffe flesh were hung upon forked sticks, driven into the +ground to leeward of the fire, while others were simply thrown +upon the embers by my men, who, while the food was roasting, +employed themselves in skinning the animal, and in eating the +flesh raw. The meat was quickly roasted, and was the best I have +ever tasted, fully corroborating the praises I had frequently +heard of giraffe meat from the Arab hunters. It would be natural +to suppose that the long legs of this animal would furnish the +perfection of marrow bones, but these are a disappointment, as +the bones of the giraffe are solid, like those of the elephant +and hippopotamus; the long tendons of the legs are exceedingly +prized by the Arabs in lieu of thread for sewing leather, also +for guitar strings. + +"After luncheon, I took my little Fletcher rifle, and strolled +down to the spot from whence I had fired the shot, as I wished to +measure the distance, but no sooner had I arrived at the place +than I observed at about a quarter of a mile below me, in the +valley, a fine tetel; it was standing on the summit of one of the +numerous knolls, evidently driven fronm the high grass by the +flies. I stalked it very carefully until I arrived within about +a hundred yards, and just as I reached the stem of a tree that I +had resolved upon as my covering-point, the tetel got my wind, +and immediately bounded off, receiving the bullet in the right +hip at the same moment. After a few bounds it fell, and I ran +forward to secure it, but it suddenly sprang to its feet, and +went off at a surprising rate upon three legs. I believed I +missed it, as I fired a quick shot just as it disappeared in the +thick bushes. Whistling for my people, I was now joined by +Bacheet and Richarn, my other men remaining with the giraffe. For +about four miles we followed on the track through the broken +valley of the Atbara, during which we several times disturbed the +tetel, but could not obtain a good shot, on account of the high +grass and thick bushes. Several times I tried a snap shot, as for +a moment I caught sight of its red hide galloping through the +bush, but as it ran down wind I had no chance of getting close to +my game. At length, after following rapidly down a grassy ravine, +I presently heard it pelting through the bushes; the ravine made +a bend to the right, therefore, by taking a short cut, I arrived +just in time to catch sight of the tetel as it passed over an +open space below me; this time the little Fletcher bagged him. On +examination I found that I had struck it four times. I had fired +five shots, but as three of those had been fired almost at +random, when the animal was in full speed through the bushes, one +had missed, and the others were badly placed. + +"Fortunately this long hunt had been in the direction of Sofi, to +which we were near; still more fortunately, after we had marked +the spot, we shortly met my first party of Arabs returning +towards the village, heavily laden with giraffe's flesh, and the +hide of one that I had killed yesterday. It appeared that during +the night, lions and hyaenas had completely devoured one of the +giraffes, not even leaving a vestige of skin or bone, but the +immediate neighbourhood of the spot where it lay had been +trampled into mud by the savage crowd who had left their +footprints as witnesses to the robbery; the hide and bones had +evidently been dragged away piecemeal. + +"On arrival at the river we were all busy in preparing for the +passage with so large a quantity of meat. The water-skins for the +raft were quickly inflated, and I learnt from the Arabs an +excellent contrivance for carrying a quantity of flesh across a +river, without its becoming sodden. The skin of the tetel was +nearly as capacious as that of an Alderney cow; this had been +drawn off in the usual manner, so as to form a sack. The Arabs +immediately proceeded to tie up the neck like the mouth of a bag, +and to secure the apertures at the knees in like manner; when +this operation was concluded, the skin became an immense sack, +the mouth being at the aperture left at the hind-quarters. The +No. 10 bullet had gone completely through the shoulders of the +tetel, thus the two holes in the hide required stopping; this was +dexterously performed by inserting a stone into either hole, of +a size so much larger than the aperture, that it was impossible +to squeeze them through. These stones were inserted from the +inside of the sack; they were then grasped by the hand from the +outside, and pulled forward, while a tight ligature was made +behind each stone, which effectually stopped the holes. The skin +of the tetel was thus converted into a waterproof bag, into which +was packed a quantity of flesh sufficient to fill two-thirds of +its capacity; the edges of the mouth were then carefully drawn +together, and secured by tying. Thus carefully packed, one of the +foreleg ligatures was untied, and the whole skin was inflated by +blowing through the tube formed by the skin of the limb; the +inflation completed, this was suddenly twisted round and tied. +The skin thus filled looked like an exaggerated water-skin; the +power of flotation was so great, that about a dozen men hung on +to the legs of the tetel, and to each other's shoulders, when we +launched it in the river. This plan is well worthy of the +attention of military men; troops, when on service, are seldom +without bullocks; in the absence of boats or rafts, not only can +the men be thus safely conveyed across the river, but the +ammunition can be packed within the skins, wrapped up in straw, +and will be kept perfectly dry. + +"The Arabs were much afraid of crocodiles this night, as it was +perfectly dark when we had completed our preparations, and they +feared that the snmell of so large a quantity of raw flesh, more +especially the hide of the giraffe, which must be towed, would +attract these beasts to the party; accordingly I fired several +shots to alarm them, and the men plunged into the river, amidst +the usual yelling of the women on the opposite side. Fires had +been lighted to direct us, and all passed safely across. + +"The sport upon the Abyssinian side of the river had been most +satisfactory, and I resolved upon the first opportunity to change +my quarters, and to form an encampment upon that bank of the +Atbara until the proper season should arrive for travelling. I +had killed three giraffes and two tetel in only two excursions. +Florian, who was ill, had not been able to accompany me; although +he had been shooting in this neighbourhood for two years he had +never killed a giraffe. This want of success was owing to the +inferiority of his weapons, that were not adapted to correct +shooting at a range exceeding a hundred yards. + +"On the following morning about fifty Arabs crossed the river +with the intention of bringing the flesh of the giraffe, but they +returned crestfallen in the evening, as again the lions and +hyaenas had been before them, and nothing was left. I therefore +resolved not to shoot again until I should be settled in my new +camp on the other side of the river, as it was a wasteful +expenditure of these beautiful animals unless the flesh could be +preserved. + +"The rainy season was drawing to a close, and I longed to quit +the dulness of Sofi. + +"September 12.--The river has fallen nearly eighteen feet, as the +amount of rain has much decreased during the last week. Immense +crocodiles are now to be seen daily, basking upon the muddy +banks. One monster in particular, who is well known to the Arabs +as having devoured a woman a few months ago, invariably sleeps +upon a small island up the river. + +"This evening I counted seven elephants on the east side of the +river on the table lands. + +"To-day the Arabs kept one of their holy feasts; accordingly, a +sheep was slaughtered as a sacrifice, with an accompaniment of +music and singing, i.e. howling to several guitars. + +"The Arab system of an offering is peculiar. Should a friend be +dangerously ill, or rain be demanded, or should any calamity +befall them, they slaughter an ox if they possess it, or a sheep +or goat in the absence of a larger animal, but the owner of the +beast SELLS the meat in small portions to the assembled party, +and the whole affair of sacrifice resolves itself into a feast; +thus having filled thenmselves with good meat, they feel +satisfied that they have made a religious sacrifice, and they +expect the beneficial results. The guitar music and singing that +attend the occasion are simply abominable. Music, although +beloved like dancing by both the savage and civilized, varies in +character according to the civilization of the race; that which +is agreeable to the uneducated ear is discord to the refined +nerves of the educated. The uutuned ear of the savage can no more +enjoy the tones of civilized music than his palate would relish +the elaborate dishes of a French chef de cuisine. As the stomach +of the Arab prefers the raw meat and reeking liver taken hot from +the animal, so does his ear prefer his equally coarse and +discordant music to all other. The guitar most common is made of +either the shell of a large gourd, or that of a turtle; over this +is stretched an untanned skin, that of a large fish being +preferred; through this two sticks are fixed about two feet three +inches in length; the ends of these are fastened to a cross piece +upon which are secured the strings; these are stretched over a +bridge similar to those of a violin, and are either tightened or +relaxed by rings of waxed rag fastened upon the cross +piece--these rings are turned by the hand, and retain their +position in spite of the strain upon the strings. Nothing +delights an Arab more than to sit idly in his hut and strum this +wretched instrument from morning until night." + +I was thoroughly tired of Sofi, and I determined to move my party +across the river to camp on the uninhabited side; the rains had +almost ceased, therefore we should be able to live in the tent at +night, and to form a shady nook beneath some mimosas by day; +accordingly we busily prepared for a move. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FORM A RAFT WITH THE SPONGING BATH. + +ON the 15th September the entire male population of Sofi turned +out to assist us in crossing the river, as I had promised them a +certain sum should the move be effected without the loss or +destruction of baggage. I had arranged a very superior raft to +that I had formerly used, as I now had eight inflated skins +attached to the bedstead, upon which I lashed our large circular +sponging bath, which, being three feet eight inches in diameter, +and of the best description, would be perfectly safe for my wife, +and dry and commodious for the luggage. In a very short time the +whole of our effects were carried to the water's edge, and the +passage of the river commenced. The rifles were the first to +cross with Bacheet, while the water-tight iron box that contained +the gunpowder was towed like a pinnace behind the raft. Four +hippopotami hunters were harnessed as tug steamers, while a +change of swimmers waited to relieve them every alternate voyage. +The raft answered admirably, and would easily support about three +hundred pounds. The power of flotation of the sponging bath alone +I had proved would support a hundred and ninety pounds, thus the +only danger in crossing was the chance of a crocodile making a +dash either at the inflated skins in mistake for the body of a +man, or at the swimmers themselves. All the usual necessaries +were safely transported, with the tents and personal baggage, +before I crossed myself, with a number of Arabs. We quickly +cleared the grass from the hard pebbly soil of a beautiful +plateau on the summit of a craggy sandstone cliff, about eighty +feet above the river; here we pitched the tents, close to some +mimosas of dense foliage, and all being in order, I went down to +the river to receive the next arrival. My wife now came across +the ferry, and so perfectly had this means of transport +succeeded, that by the evening, the whole of our stores and +baggage had been delivered without the slightest damage, with the +exception of a very heavy load of corn, that had caused the +sponging bath to ship a sea during a strong squall of wind. The +only person who had shown the least nervousness in trusting his +precious body to my ferry-boat was Mahomet the dragoman, who, +having been simply accustomed to the grand vessels of the Nile, +was not prepared to risk himself in a voyage across the Atbara in +a sponging bath. He put off the desperate attempt until the last +moment, when every other person of my party had crossed; I +believe he hoped that a wreck would take place before his turn +should arrive, and thus spare him the painful necessity, but when +at length the awful moment arrived, he was assisted carefully +imito the bath by his servant Achmet and a number of Arabs, all +of whom were delighted at his imbecility. Perched nervously in +the centre of the bath, and holding on tight by either side, he +was towed across with his travelling bag of clothes, while Achmet +remained in charge of his best clothes and sundry other personal +effects, that were to form the last cargo across the ferry. It +appeared that Achmet, the dearly beloved and affectionate +relative of Mahomet, who had engaged to serve him for simple love +instead of money, was suddenly tempted by Satan, and seeing that +Mahomet and the entire party were divided from him and the +property in his charge, by a river two hundred yards wide, about +forty feet deep, with a powerful current, he made up his mind to +bolt with the valuables; therefore while Mahomet, in a nervous +state in the ferry-bath, was being towed towards the east, Achmet +turned in another direction and fled towards the west. Mahomet +having been much frightened by the nautical effort he had been +forced to make, was in an exceedingly bad temper upon the arrival +on the opposite bank, and having at length succeeded in climbing +up the steep ascent, in shoes that were about four sizes too +large for him, he arrived on the lofty plateau of our camp, and +doubtless would like ourselves have been charmed with the view of +the noble river rushing between the cliffs of white sandstone, +had he only seen Achmet his fond relative with his effects on the +opposite bank. Mahomet strained his eyes, but the blank was no +optical delusion; neither Achmet nor his effects were there. The +Arabs, who hated the unfortunate Mahomet for his general +overbearing conduct, now comforted him with the suggestion that +Achmet had run away, and that his only chance was to re-cross the +river and give chase. Mahomet would not have ventured upon +another voyage to the other side and back again, for the world, +and as to giving chase in boots (highlows) four sizes too big, +and without strings, that would have been as absurd as to employ +a donkey to catch a horse. Mahomet could do nothing but rush +frantically to the very edge of the cliff, and scream and +gesticulate to a crowd of Arab women who had passed the day +beneath the shady trees by the Faky's grave, watching our passage +of the Atbara. Beating his own head and tearing his hair were +always the safety valves of Mahomet's rage, but as hair is not of +that mushroom growth that reappears in a night, he had patches +upon his cranium as bald as a pumpkin shell, from the constant +plucking, attendant upon losses of temper; he now not only tore +a few extra locks from his head, but he shouted out a tirade of +abuse towards the far-distant Achmet, calling him a "son of a +dog," cursing his father, and paying a few compliments to the +memory of his mother, which if only half were founded upon fact +were sad blots upon the morality of the family to which Mahomet +himself belonged, through his close relationship to Achmet, whom +he had declared to be his mother's brother's cousin's sister's +mother's son. + +A heavy shower of rain fell shortly after our camp was completed, +when fortunately the baggage was under cover; this proved to be +the last rain of the season, and from that moment the burning sun +ruled the sodden country, and rapidly dried up not only the soil +but all vegetation. The grass within a few days of the cessation +of the rain assumed a tinge of yellow, and by the end of October +there was not a green spot to relieve the eye from the golden +blaze of the landscape, except the patches of grass and reeds +that sprang from the mud banks of the retiring river. The climate +was exceedingly unhealthy, but we were fortunately exceptions to +the general rule, and although the inhabitants of Sofi were all +sufferers, our camp had no invalids, with the exception of +Mahomet, who had upon one occasion so gorged himself with +half-putrid fish, that he nearly died in consequence. It would be +impossible to commence our explorations in the Base until the +grass should be sufficiently dry to burn; there were two +varieties: that upon the slopes and hollows of the stony soil of +the Atbara valley had been a pest ever since it had ripened; as +the head formed three barbed darts, these detached themselves +from the plant with such facility, that the slightest touch was +sufficient to dislodge them; they immediately pierced the +clothes, from which they could not be withdrawn, as the barbed +heads broke off and remained. It was simply impossible to walk in +this grass as it became ripe, without special protection; I +accordingly tanned some gazelle skins, with which my wife +constructed stocking gaiters, to be drawn over the foot and tied +above and below the knee; thus fortified I could defy the grass, +and indulge in shooting and exploring the neighbourhood until the +season should arrive for firing the country. The high grass upon +the table lands, although yellow, would not be sufficiently +inflammable until the end of November. + +The numerous watercourses that drained the table lands during the +rainy season were now dry. No sooner had the grass turned yellow, +than the pest of the country, the seroot fly, disappeared; thus +the presence of this insect may be dated from about 10th July to +10th October. As the fly vanished, the giraffes also left the +neighbourhood. By a few days' exploration, I found that the point +of land from the junction of the Settite river with the Atbara, +formed a narrow peninsula which was no wider than eight miles +across from our encampment: thus the herds of game retreating +from the south before the attacks of the seroot, found themselves +driven into a cut-de-sac upon the strip of land between the broad +and deep rivers the Settite and Atbara, which in the rainy season +they dared not cross. All this country being uninhabited, there +were several varieties of game at all seasons, but the three +rainy months insure a good supply of elephants and giraffes; +these retreat about thirty miles farther south, when permitted by +the cessation of the flies to return to their favourite haunts. + +My camp was in a very commanding position, as it was protected in +front by the Atbara, and on the left by a perpendicular ravine +about eighty feet deep, at the bottom of which flowed the rivulet +called by the Arabs the "Till;" this joined the river immediately +below our plateau. On our right was a steep and rugged incline +covered with rocks of the whitest sandstone, through which ran +veins of rich iron ore from four to five feet in width. I found +a considerable quantity of fossil wood in the sandstone, and I +had previously discovered on the Sofi side of the river, the +fossil stem of a tree about twelve feet long; the grain appeared +to be exceedingly close, but I could not determine the class to +which the tree had belonged. + +As the Atbara had fallen to the level of the small tributary, the +Till, that stream was nearly exhausted, and the fish that +inhabited its deep and shady waters during the rainy season were +now fast retiring to the parent river. At the mouth of the stream +were a number of rocks, that, as the water of the Atbara +retreated, daily increased in size; these were evidently blocks +that had been detached from the cliffs that walled in the Till. +As we were now entirely dependent upon the rod and the rifle for +the support of our party, I determined to try for a fish, as I +felt quite certain that some big fellows in the main river would +be waiting to receive the small fry that were hurrying away from +the exhausted waters of the Till. + +I had a good supply of tackle, and I chose a beautifully straight +and tapering bamboo that had been brought down by the river +floods. I cut off the large brass ring from a game-bag, which I +lashed to the end of my rod; and having well secured my largest +winch, that carried upwards of 200 yards of the strongest line, +I arranged to fish with a live bait upon a set of treble hooks. +In one of the rocks at the water's edge was a circular hole about +three feet in diameter and five or six feet deep; this appeared +like an artificial well, but it was simply the effect of natural +boring by the joint exertions of the strong current conmbined +with hard sand and gravel. This had perhaps years ago settled in +some slight hollow in the rock, and had gradually worked out a +deep well by perpetual revolutions. I emptied this natural bait +box of its contents of sand and rounded pebbles, and having +thoroughly cleaned and supplied it with fresh water, I caught a +large number of excellent baits by emptying a hole in the Till; +these I consigned to my aquarium. The baits were of various +kinds: some were small "boulti" (a species of perch), but the +greater number were young fish of the Silurus species; these were +excellent, as they were exceedingly tough in the skin, and so +hardy in constitution, that they rather enjoyed the fun of +fishing. I chose a little fellow about four inches in length to +begin with, and I delicately inserted the hook under the back +fin. Gently dropping my alluring and lively little friend in a +deep channel between the rocks and the mouth of the Till, I +watched my large float with great interest, as, carried by the +stream, it swept past the corner of a large rock into the open +river; that corner was the very place where, if I had been a big +fish, I should have concealed myself for a sudden rush upon an +unwary youngster. The large green float sailed leisurely along, +simply indicating, by its uneasy movement, that the bait was +playing; and now it passed the point of the rock and hurried +round the corner in the sharper current towards the open river. +Off it went!--Down dipped the tip of the rod, with a rush so +sudden that the line caught somewhere, I don't know where, and +broke! + +"Well, that was a monster!" I exclaimed, as I recovered my +inglorious line; fortunately the float was not lost, as the hooks +had been carried away at the fastening to the main line; a few +yards of this I cut off, as it had partially lost its strength +from frequent immersion. + +I replaced the lost hooks by a still larger set, with the +stoutest gimp and swivels, and once more I tried my fortune with +a bait exactly resembling the first. In a short time I had a +brisk run, and quickly landed a fish of about twelve pounds: this +was a species known by the Arabs as the "bayard;" it has a +blackish green back, the brightest silver sides and belly, with +very peculiar back fins, that nearest to the tail being a simple +piece of flesh free from rays. This fish has four long barbules +in the upper jaw, and two in the lower: the air-bladder, when +dried, forms a superior quality of isinglass, and the flesh of +this fish is excellent. I have frequently seen the bayard sixty +or seventy pounds' weight, therefore I was not proud of my catch, +and I recommenced fishing. Nothing large could be tempted, and I +only succeeded in landing two others of the same kind, one of +about nine pounds, the smaller about six. I resolved upon my next +trial to use a much larger bait, and I returned to camp with my +fish for dinner. + +The life at our new camp was charmingly independent; we were upon +Abyssinian territory; but, as the country was uninhabited, we +considered it as our own. I had previously arranged with the +sheik of Sofi that, whenever the rifle should be successful and +I could spare meat, I would hoist the English flag upon my +flagstaff; thus I could at any time summon a crowd of hungry +visitors, who were ever ready to swim the river and defy the +crocodiles in the hope of obtaining flesh. We were exceedingly +comfortable, having a large stock of supplies; in addition to our +servants we had acquired a treasure in a nice old slave woman, +whom we had hired from the sheik at a dollar per month to grind +the corn. Masara (Sarah) was a dear old creature, the most +willing and obliging specimen of a good slave; and she was one of +those bright exceptions of the negro race that would have driven +Exeter Hall frantic with enthusiasm. Poor old Masara! she had now +fallen into the hands of a kind mistress, and as we were +improving in Arabic, my wife used to converse with her upon the +past and present; future had never been suggested to her simple +mind. Masara had a weighty care; her daily bread was provided; +money she had none, neither did she require it; husband she could +not have had, as a slave has none, but is the common property of +all who purchase her: but poor Masara had a daughter, a charming +pretty girl of about seventeen, the offspring of one of the old +woman's Arab masters. Sometimes this girl came to see her mother, +and we arranged the bath on the inflated skins, and had her towed +across for a few days. This was Masara's greatest happiness, but +her constant apprehension; the nightmare of her life was the +possibility that her daughter should be sold and parted from her. +The girl was her only and all absorbing thought, the sole object +of her affection: she was the moon in her mother's long night of +slavery; without her, all was dark and hopeless. The hearts of +slaves are crushed and hardened by the constant pressure of the +yoke; nevertheless some have still those holy feelings of +affection that nature has implanted in the human mind: it is the +tearing asunder of those tender chains that renders slavery the +horrible curse that it really is; human beings are reduced to the +position of animals, without the blessings enjoyed by the brute +creation--short memories and obtuse feelings. + +Masara, Mahomet, Wat Gamma, and Bacheet, formed the establishment +of Ehetilla, which was the Arab name of our locality. Bacheet was +an inveterate sportsman and was my constant and sole attendant +when shooting; his great desire was to accompany me in +elephant-hunting, when he promised to carry one of my spare +rifles as a trusty gun-bearer, and he vowed that no animal should +ever frighten him. + +A few extracts from my journal written at that time will convey +a tolerable idea of the place and our employments. + +"September 23.--Started for the Settite river. In about four +hours' good marching N.N.E. through a country of grass and mimosa +bush that forms the high land between that river and the Atbara, +I reached the Settite about a mile from the junction. The river +is about 250 yards wide, and flows through a broken valley of +innumerable hillocks and deep ravines of about five miles in +width, precisely similar in character to that of the Atbara; the +soil having been denuded by the rains, and carried away by the +floods of the river towards the Nile. The heat was intense; there +was no air stirring; a cloudless sky and a sun like a +burning-glass. We saw several nellut (Taurotragus strepsiceros), +but these superb antelopes were too wild to allow a close +approach. The evening drew near, and we had nothing to eat, when +fortunately I espied a fine black-striped gazelle (Gazella +Dorcas), and with the greatest caution I stalked it to within +about a hundred paces, and made a successful shot with the +Fletcher rifle, and secured our dinner. Thus provided, we +selected a steep sugarloaf-shaped hill, upon the peak of which we +intended to pass the night. We therefore cleared away the grass, +spread boughs upon the ground, lighted fires, and prepared for a +bivouac. Having a gridiron, and pepper and salt, I made a grand +dinner of liver and kidneys, while my men ate a great portion of +the gazelle raw, and cooked the remainder in their usual careless +manner by simply laying it upon the fire for a few seconds until +warmed half through. There is nothing like a good gridiron for +rough cooking; a frying-pan is good if you have fat, but without +it, the pan is utterly useless. With a gridiron and a couple of +iron skewers a man is independent:--the liver cut in strips and +grilled with pepper and salt is excellent, but kabobs are +sublime, if simply arranged upon the skewer in alternate pieces +of liver and kidney cut as small as walnuts, and rubbed with +chopped garlic, onions, cayenne, black pepper, and salt. The +skewers thus arranged should be laid either upon the glowing +embers, or across the gridiron. + +"Not a man closed his eyes that night--not that the dinner +disagreed with them--but the mosquitoes! Lying on the ground, the +smoke of the fires did not protect us; we were beneath it, as +were the mosquitoes likewise; in fact the fires added to our +misery, as they brought new plagues in thousands of flying bugs; +with beetles of all sizes and kinds: these, becoming stupified in +the smoke, tumbled clumsily upon me, entangling themselves in my +long beard and whiskers, crawling over my body, down my neck, and +up my sleeping-drawers, until I was swarming with them; the bugs +upon being handled squashed like lumps of butter, and emitted a +perfume that was unbearable. The night seemed endless; it was +passed in alternately walking to and fro, flapping right and left +with a towel, covering my head with a pillow-case, and gasping +for air through the button-hole, in an atmosphere insufferably +sultry. + +"At length morning dawned, thank Heaven! I made a cup of strong +coffee, ate a morsel of dhurra bread, and started along the high +ground parallel with the course of the Settite river up stream. + +"After walking for upwards of four hours over ground covered with +tracks of giraffes, elephants, and antelopes about a fortnight +old, I saw four tetel (Antelopus Bubalis), but I was unfortunate +in my shot at a long range in high grass. We had been marching +south-east, and as I intended to return to camp, we now turned +sharp to the west. The country was beautiful, composed of +alternate glades, copses, and low mimosa forest. At length I +espied the towering head of a giraffe about half a mile distant; +he was in the mimosa forest, and was already speculating upon our +party, which he had quickly observed. Leaving my men in this spot +to fix his attention, I succeeded in making a good stalk to +within one hundred and twenty yards of him. He was exactly facing +me, and I waited for him to turn and expose the flank, but he +suddenly turned so quickly that I lost the opportunity, and he +received the bullet in his back as he started at full speed; for +the moment he reeled crippled among the mimosas, but, recovering, +he made off. I could not fire the left-hand barrel on account of +the numerous trees and bushes. I called my men, and followed for +a few hundred yards upon his track, but as this was directly in +an opposite direction to that of my camp I was forced to give up +the hunt.* + + * We found the remains of the Giraffe a few days later. + +"About an hour later I hit a tetel with both barrels of the +little Fletcher, at full gallop; but although we followed the +blood-track for sonme distance, we did not recover it. At this +season the grass is in most places from seven to ten feet high, +and being trodden by numerous old tracks of animals, it is +difficult to find a wounded beast without the assistance of a +dog. The luck was against me to-day; I could only shoot well +enough to hit everything, but to bag nothing, owing to a +sleepless night. I killed a guinea-fowl to secure dinner upon my +return, and we at length reached the welcome Atbara within two +miles of my head-quarters. My men made a rush to the river, and +threw themselves into the water, as all were more or less +exhausted by the intense heat of the long day's work after a +restless night. I took a good drink through my gazelle +shank-bone, which I wear suspended from my neck for that purpose, +and I went on alone, leaving my bathing party to refresh +themselves. I reached the tent a little after 4 P.M. after more +than ten hours' continual walking in the burning sun. I felt +almost red hot, but my bath and clean linen being ready, thanks +to the careful preparation of my wife, I was quickly refreshed, +and sat down with a lion's appetite to good curry and rice, and +a cup of black coffee. + +"September 25.--Having nothing to eat, I took my fishing-rod and +strolled down to the river, and chose from my aquarium a fish of +about half a pound for a live bait; I dropped this in the river +about twenty yards beyond the mouth of the Till, and allowed it +to swim naturally down the stream so as to pass across the Till +junction, and descend the deep channel between the rocks. For +about ten minutes I had no run; I had twice tried the same water +without success, nothing would admire my charming bait; when, +just as it had reached the favourite turning-point at the +extremity of a rock, away dashed the line, with the tremendous +rush that follows the attack of a heavy fish. Trusting to the +soundness of my tackle, I struck hard and fixed my new +acquaintance thoroughly, but off he dashed down the stream for +about fifty yards at one rush, making for a narrow channel +between two rocks, through which the stream ran like a mill-race. +Should he pass this channel, I knew he would cut the line across +the rock; therefore, giving him the butt, I held him by main +force, and by the great swirl in the water I saw that I was +bringing him to the surface; but just as I expected to see him, +my float having already appeared, away he darted in another +direction, taking sixty or seventy yards of line without a check. +I at once observed that he must pass a shallow sandbank +favourable for landing a heavy fish; I therefore checked him as +he reached this spot, and I followed him down the bank, reeling +up line as I ran parallel with his course. Now came the tug of +war! I knew my hooks were good and the line sound, therefore I +was determined not to let him escape beyond the favourable +ground; and I put a strain upon him, that after much struggling +brought to the surface a great shovel-head, followed by a pair of +broad silvery sides, as I led him gradualhy into shallow water. +Bacheet now cleverly secured him by the gills, and dragged him in +triumph to the shore. This was a splendid bayard, at least forty +pounds' weight. + +"I laid my prize upon some green reeds, and covered it carefully +with the same cool material. I then replaced my bait by a lively +fish, and once more tried the river. In a very short time I had +another run, and landed a small fish of about nine pounds of the +same species. Not wishing to catch fish of that size, I put on a +large bait, and threw it about forty yards into the river, well +up the stream, and allowed the float to sweep the water in a half +circle, thus taking the chance of different distances from the +shore. For about half an hour nothing moved; I was just preparing +to alter my position, when out rushed my line, and striking hard, +I believed I fixed the old gentleman himself, for I had no +control over him whatever; holding him was out of the question; +the line flew through my hands, cutting them till the blood +flowed, and I was obliged to let the fish take his own way: this +he did for about eighty yards, when he suddenly stopped. This +unexpected halt was a great calamity, for the reel overran +itself, having no check-wheel, and the slack bends of the line +caught the handle just as he again rushed forward, and with a +jerk that nearly pulled the rod from my hands he was gone! I +found one of my large hooks broken short off; the confounded +reel! The fish was a monster! + +"After this bad luck I had no run until the evening, when putting +on a large bait, and fishing at the tail of a rock between the +stream and still water, I once more had a grand rush, and hooked +a big one. There were no rocks down stream, all was fair play and +clear water, and away he went at racing pace straight for the +middle of the river. To check the pace, I grasped the line with +the stuff of my loose trousers, and pressed it between my fingers +so as to act as a break, and compel him to labour for every yard; +but he pulled like a horse, and nearly cut through the thick +cotton cloth, making straight running for at least a hundred +yards without a halt. I now put so severe a strain upon him, that +my strong bamboo bent nearly double, and the fish presently so +far yielded to the pressure, that I could enforce his running in +half circles instead of straight away. I kept gaining line, until +I at length led him into a shallow bay, and after a great fight, +Bacheet embraced him by falling upon him, and clutching the +monster with hands and knees; he then tugged to the shore a +magnificent fish of upwards of sixty pounds. For about twenty +minutes he had fought against such a strain as I had never before +used upon a fish, but I had now adopted hooks of such a large +size and thickness that it was hardly possible for them to break, +unless snapped by a crocodile. My reel was so loosened from the +rod, that had the struggle lasted a few minutes longer I must +have been vanquished. This fish measured three feet eight inches +to the root of the tail, and two feet three inches in girth of +shoulders; the head measured one foot ten inches in +circumference--it was the same species as those I had already +caught. + +"This closed the sport for the day. We called all hands to carry +the fish to camp, and hoisted the flag, which was quickly +followed by the arrival of a number of men from Sofi, to receive +all that we could spare. The largest fish we cut into thin +strips,--these we salted and dried; the head made delicious soup, +with a teaspoonful of curry-powder. + +"September 26.--The weather is now intensely hot, and the short +spear grass is drying so rapidly that in some stony places it can +be fired. The birds appear to build their nests at various +seasons. Many that built three months ago are again at work; +among others is a species of black Mina, that takes entire +possession of a tree, which it completely covers with nests +coarsely constructed of sticks. A few days ago I found several +trees converted into colonies of many hundred dwellings. + +"I never allow either the monkeys or baboons to be disturbed: +thus they have no fear of our party, but with perfect confidence +they approach within thirty or forty yards of the tents, sitting +upon the rocks and trees, and curiously watching all that takes +place in the camp. I have only seen one species of monkey in this +neighbourhood--a handsome dark grey animal with white whiskers. +The baboons are also of one species, the great dog-faced ape +(Cynocephalus); these grow to a very large size, and old Masara +fully expects to be carried off and become the wife of an old +baboon, if they are allowed to become so bold. + +"This afternoon I took a stroll with the rifle, but saw nothing +except a young crocodile about six feet long; this was on the dry +summit of a hill, far from water. I shot it and took the skin. I +can only conclude that the small stream in which he had wandered +from the river-bed had become dry, and the creature had lost its +way in searching for other water. + +"September 27.--I started from the tent at 6 A.M. and made a +circuit of about eighteen miles, seeing nothing but tetel and +gazelles, but I had no luck. Hot and disgusted, I returned home, +and took the rod, hoping for better luck in the river. I hooked, +but lost, a small fish, and I began to think that the fates were +against me by land and water, when I suddenly had a tremendous +run, and about a hundred and fifty yards rushed off the reel +without the possibility of stopping the fish. The river was very +low; thus I followed along the bank, holding hard, and after +about half an hour of difference of opinion, the fish began to +show itself, and I coaxed it into the shallows; here it was +cleverly managed by Bacheet, who lugged it out by the tail. It +was an ugly monster, of about fifty pounds, a species of silurus, +known by the Arabs as the 'coor;' it differed from the silurus of +Europe by haviimg a dorsal fin, like a fringe, that extended +along the back to the tail. This fish had lungs resembling +delicate branches of red coral, and, if kept moist, it would +exist upon the land for many hours like an eel. It smelt strongly +of musk, but it was gladly accepted by the Sheik of Sofi, who +immediately answered to the flag. + +"While shooting this morning I came suddenly upon a small species +of leopard that had just killed a snake about five feet in +length; the head was neatly bitten off and lay upon the ground +near the body; the animal was commencing a meal off the snake +when it was disturbed, and I lost sight of it immediately in the +high grass. + +"September 28.--The heat is most oppressive: even the nights are +hot, until about 2 A.M., at which hour a cool breeze springs up. +The wind now blows from the south until about 1 P.M., when it +changes suddenly to the north, and then varies between these two +points during the rest of the day; this leads me to hope that the +north wind will shortly set in. September, as in England, is the +autumn of this land; the wild fruits are ripe, some of which are +not unpleasant, but they are generally too sweet,--they lack the +acidity that would be agreeable in this burning climate. There is +an orange-coloured berry that has a pleasant flavour, but it is +extremely oily; this has a peculiarly disagreeable effect upon +the system, if eaten in any quantity. Several varieties of +excellent wild vegetables grow in great abundance throughout this +country: beans, three kinds of spinach; the juicy, brittle plant +cultivated in Lower Egypt, and known as the 'regle;' and lastly, +that main-stay of Arab cookery, 'waker,' well known in Ceylon and +India under the names of 'Barmian' and 'Bandikai.' This grows to +the height of thirteen or fourteen feet in the rich soil of the +table lands: the Arabs gather the pods and cut them into thin +slices; these are dried in the sun, and then packed in large +sacks for market. The harvest of waker is most important, as no +Arab dish would be perfect without the admixture of this +agreeable vegetable. The dried waker is ground into powder +between two stones; this, if boiled with a little gravy, produces +a gelatinous and highly-flavoured soup. + +"September 29.--We have just heard that Atalan Wat Said, by whom +we were so well received, is dead! The Arabs have a disagreeable +custom of paying honours to a guest by keeping the anniversary of +the death of any relatives whose decease should be known to them; +thus, when Atalan Wat Said paid a visit to Sheik Achmet Abou +Sinn, the latter celebrated with much pomp the anniversary of his +(Atalan's) late father's death. The unfortunate guest, who +happened to arrive in Abou Sinn's camp upon the exact day upon +which his father had died in the precedimig year, was met by a +mourning crowd, with the beating of drums, the howling of women, +and the loud weeping and sorrowful condoling of the men. This +scene affected Atalan Wat Said to such a degree, that, being +rather unwell, he immediately sickened with fever, and died in +three days. In this country any grief of mind will insure an +attack of fever, when all are more or less predisposed during the +unhealthy season, from the commencement of July until the end of +October. + +"This afternoon I took the rod, and having caught a beautiful +silver-sided fish of about a pound weight, I placed it upon a +large single hook fastened under the back fin. In about an hour +I had a run, but upon striking, I pulled the bait out of the +fish's mouth, as the point of the hook had not touched the jaw. +I had wound up slowly for about thirty yards, hoping that the big +fellow would follow his lost prize, as I knew him to be a large +fish by his attack upon a bait of a pound weight. I found my bait +was killed, but having readjusted the hook, I again cast it in +the same direction, and slowly played it towards me. I had him! +He took it immediately, and I determined to allow him to swallow +it before I should strike. Without a halt, about a hundred yards +of line were taken at the first rush towards the middle of the +river; he then stopped, and I waited for about a minute, and then +fixed him with a jerk that bent my bamboo like a fly-rod. To this +he replied by a splendid challenge; in one jump he flew about six +feet above the water, and showed himself to be one of the most +beautiful fish I had ever seen; not one of those nondescript +antediluvian brutes that you expect to catch in these +extraordinary rivers, but in colour he appeared like a clean run +salmon. He gave tremendous play, several times leaping out of the +water, and shaking his head furiously to free himself from the +hook; then darting away with eighty or a hundred yards of fresh +line, until he at last was forced to yield to the strong and +elastic bamboo, and his deep body stranded upon the fatal +shallows. + +"Bacheet was a charming lad to land a fish: he was always quiet +and thoughtful, and never got in the way of the line; this time +he closely approached him from behind, slipped both his hands +along his side, and hooked his fingers into the broad gills; thus +he dragged him, splashing through the shallows, to the sandbank. +What a beauty! What was he? The colour was that of a salmon, and +the scales were not larger in proportion: he was about fifty +pounds' weight. The back fin resembled that of a perch, with +seven rays; the second, dorsal fin towards the tail had fourteen +rays; the head was well shaped, and small in proportion; the eyes +were bright red, and shone like rubies; and the teeth were very +small. I cut away my line, as the hook was deeply swallowed; and +after having washed this beautiful fish, I assisted Bacheet to +carry it to the camp, where it was laid upon a clean mat at the +tent-door for admiration. This species of fish is considered by +the Arabs to be the best in the river; it is therefore called 'El +Baggar' (the cow). It is a species of perch, and we found it +excellent--quite equal to a fine trout. I made an exact sketch of +it on the spot, after which the greater portion was cut up and +salted; it was then smoked for about four hours. The latter +process is necessary to prevent the flies from blowing it, before +it becomes sufficiently dry to resist their attacks. + +"For several days I passed my time in fishing, with the varying +success that must attend all fishermen. Upon the extreme verge of +the river's bank were dense bushes of the nabbuk, about fifteen +feet high, but so thickly massed with green foliage that I cut +out a tunnel with my hunting-knife, and completed a capacious +arbour, thoroughly protected from the sun. In this it was far +more agreeable to pass the day than at the camp; accordingly we +arranged the ground with mats and carpets, and my wife converted +the thorny bower into an African drawing-room, where she could +sit with her work and enjoy the view of the river at her feet, +and moreover watch the fishing." + + +CHAPTER X. + +A FEW NOTES AT EHETILLA. + +I WILL not follow the dates of the journal consecutively, but +merely pounce from time to time upon such passages as will +complete the description of our life at Ehetilla. + +"October 4.--I went out fishing in the usual place, where the +Till joins the Atbara; the little stream has disappeared, and the +bed is now perfectly dry, but there are many large rocks and +sandbanks in the river, which are excellent places for heavy +fish. I had only three runs, but I landed them all. The first was +a beautiful baggar about forty pounds, from which time a long +interval elapsed before I had another. I placed a bait of about +a pound upon my treble hook, and this being a fine lively fellow, +was likely to entice a monster. I was kept waiting for a +considerable time, but at last he came with the usual tremendous +rush. I gave him about fifty yards of line before I fixed him, +and the struggle then commenced, as usual with the baggar, by his +springing out of the water, and showing his superb form and size. +This was a magnificent fish, and his strength was so great, that +in his violent rushes he would take sixty or seventy yards of +line without my permission. I could not check him, as the line +burnt and cut my fingers to such a degree that I was forced to +let it go, and my only way of working him was to project the butt +of the rod in the usual manner; this was a very feeble break upon +the rush of such a fish. At last, after about half an hour of +alternate bullying and coaxing, I got him into the shallows, and +Bacheet attempted to manage him; this time he required the +assistance of Wat Gamma, who quickly ran down from the camp, and +after much struggling, an enormous baggar of between seventy and +eighty pounds was hauled to the shore by the two delighted Arabs. + +"I never enjoyed the landing of a fish more than on the present +occasion, and I immediately had the flag hoisted for a signal, +and sent the largest that I had just caught as a present to +Florian and his people. The two fish as they lay upon the green +reeds, glittering in silvery scales, were a sight to gladden the +eyes of a fisherman, as their joint weight was above one hundred +and twenty pounds. I caught another fish in the evening something +over twenty pounds, an ugly and useful creature, the coor, that +I despised, although it is a determined enemy while in play. + +"October 10.--Set fire to the low spear grass of the valley. The +river is now very low, exposing in many places large beds of +shingle, and rocks hitherto concealed. The water level is now +about thirty feet below the dried sedges and trash left by the +high floods upon the overhanging boughs. The bed of the Atbara, +and that of the Settite, are composed of rounded pebbles of all +sizes, and masses of iron ore. Large oysters (Etheria), +resembling the pearl oysters of Ceylon, are very numerous, and, +from their internal appearance, with large protuberances of pearl +matter, I should imagine they would most probably yield pearls. + +"The wild animals have now deserted this immediate neighbourhood; +the only creatures that are to be seen in numbers are the apes +and monkeys: these throng the sides of the river, eating the +tamarinds from the few large trees, and collecting gum from the +mimosas. These hungry animals gather the tamarinds before they +ripen, and I fear they will not leave a handful for us; nothing +is more agreeable in this hot climate than the acidity of +tamarind water. I remarked a few days ago, when walking along the +dry sandy bed of the Till about five miles from the river, that +the monkeys had been digging wells in the sand for water. + +"Many changes are now taking place in the arrival and departure +of various birds according to their migrations; immense numbers +of buzzards and hawks have arrived, and keep my fowls in +perpetual alarm. Ducks fly in large flocks up stream invariably, +every day; storks of different kinds are arriving. Among the new +comers is a beautiful little bird, in size and shape like a +canary, but of a deep bluish black, with an ivory white bill and +yellow lips. The beasts of prey are hungry, as the game has +become scarce:--there is no safety for tame animals, and our +goats will not feed, as they are constantly on the look-out for +danger, starting at the least sound in the bushes, and running to +the tents for security: thus their supply of milk is much +reduced. + +"The Sheik of Sofi, Hassan bel Kader, swam across the river with +a present of fowls; these he had tied upon his head to prevent +them from drowning. This man is a celebrated hippopotamus hunter, +and I look forward to accompanying him upon a harpooning +expedition, when the river is lower. His father was killed by a +bull hippo that he had harpooned; the infuriated animal caught +the unfortunate hunter in his jaws, and with one nip +disembowelled him before his son's eyes. Accidents are constantly +occurring in this dangerous sport, as the hunters are so +continually in the water that they are exposed, like baits, to +the attacks of crocodiles. During the last season one of the +sheik's party was killed; several men were swimming the river, +supported by inflated skins, when one was suddenly seized by a +crocodile. Retaining his hold upon the support, his comrades had +time to clutch him by the hair, and beneath the arms; thus the +crocodile could not drag the buoyant skins beneath the surface. +Once he was dragged from their grasp, but holding to his inflated +skin, he regained the surface, and was again supported by his +friends, who clung to him, while he implored them to hold him +tight, as the crocodile still held him by the leg. In this way +the hunters assisted him; at the same time they struck downwards +with their spears at the determined brute, until they at last +drove it from its hold. Upon gaining the shore, they found that +the flesh of the leg from the knee downwards had been stripped +from the bone, and the poor fellow shortly died. + +"October 11.--The Arabs have murdered one of the Egyptian +soldiers, about five miles from Sofi. All my people are more or +less ill, but we, thank Heaven, are in excellent health; in fact, +I have never been better than in this country, although I am +constantly in hard exercise in the burning sun. + +"October 15.--A fine breeze, therefore I set fire to the grass in +all directions, which spread into a blaze over many miles of +country. The fire immediately attracts great numbers of +fly-catchers and buzzards; these hover in the smoke to catch the +locusts and other insects that escape from the heat. Buzzards are +so exceedingly bold, that it is one person's special duty to +protect the strips of flesh when an animal is being cut up, at +which time many scores collect, and swoop down upon their prey +clutching a piece of meat with their claws, if left unguarded for +a moment. Upon one occasion, the cook had just cleaned a fish of +about a pound and a half weight, which he laid upon the ground +while he stooped to blow the fire; in an instant a large buzzard +darted upon it, and carried it off. + +"Africa may have some charms, but it certainly is rather a trying +country; in the rainy weather we have the impenetrable high +grass, the flies, and the mud; when those entertainments are +over, and the grass has ripened, every variety of herb and bush +is more or less armed with lances, swords, daggers, bayonets, +knives, spikes, needles, pins, fish-hooks, hay-forks, harpoons, +and every abomination in the shape of points which render a +leather suit indispensable to a sportsman, even in this hot +climate. My knickerbockers are made of the coarse but strong Arab +cotton cloth, that I have dyed brown with the fruit of the Acacia +Arabica; but after a walk of a few minutes, I am one mass of +horrible points from the spear grass, for about a foot from the +upper part of my gaiters; the barbed points having penetrated, +break off, and my trousers are as comfortable as a hedgehog's +skin turned inside out, with the 'woolly side in.' + +"I long for the time when the entire country will be dry enough +to burn, when fire will make a clean sweep of these nuisances. + +"October 17.--The sheik and several Arabs went to the Settite to +sow tobacco; they simply cast the seed upon the sandy loam left +by the receding river, without even scratching the soil; it is +thus left to take its chance. I accompanied him to the Settite, +and came upon the tracks of a herd of about fifty elephants that +had crossed the river a few days previous. As we were walking +through the high grass we came upon a fine boa-constrictor +(python), and not wishing to fire, as I thought I might disturb +elephants in the neighbourhood, I made a cut at it with my heavy +hunting-knife, nearly severing about four feet from the tail, but +it escaped in the high grass. + +"October 18.--A lion paid us a visit last night, roaring close to +the tent at intervals, frightening Mahomet out of his wits. + +"The seroot fly has entirely disappeared, and immense dragon +flies are now arrived, and are greedily attacking all other +flying insects. + +"October 19.--Troops of baboons are now exceedingly numerous, as +the country being entirely dried up, they are forced to the river +for water, and the shady banks covered with berry-bearing shrubs +induce them to remain. It is very amusing to watch these great +male baboons stalking majestically along, followed by a large +herd of all ages, the mothers carrying their little ones upon +their backs, the latter with a regular jockey-seat riding most +comfortably, while at other times they relieve the monotony of +the position by sprawling at full length and holding on by their +mother's back hair. Suddenly a sharp-eyed young ape discovers a +bush well covered with berries, and his greedy munching being +quickly observed, a general rush of youngsters takes place, and +much squabbling for the best places ensues among the boys; this +ends in great uproar when down comes a great male, who cuffs one, +pulls another by the hair, bites another on the hind quarters +just as he thinks he has escaped, drags back a would-be deserter +by his tail and shakes him thoroughly, and thus he shortly +restores order, preventing all further disputes by sitting under +the bush and quietly enjoying the berries by himself. These +baboons have a great variety of expressions that may perhaps +represent their vocabulary: a few of these I begin to understand, +such as their notes of alarm, and the cry to attract attention; +thus, when I am sitting alone beneath the shade of a tree to +watch their habits, they are at first not quite certain what kind +of a creature I may be, and they give a peculiar cry to induce me +to move and show myself more distinctly. + +"October 20.--A lion was roaring throughout the night not far +from the tent on his way towards the river to drink; at every +roar he was answered by the deep angry cry of the baboons, who +challenged him immediately from their secure positions on the +high rocks and trees. I found the tracks of his large feet upon +the bank of the river, but there is no possibility of finding +these animals in the daytime, as they retire to the high grass +upon the table lands. + +"The banks of the Atbara are now swarming with small birds that +throng the bushes (a species of willow), growing by the water's +edge; the weight of a large flock bends down the slender boughs +until they touch the water: this is their opportunity for +drinking, as their beaks for an instant kiss the stream. These +unfortunate little birds get no rest, the large fish and the +crocodiles grab at them when they attempt to drink, while the +falcons and hawks pursue them at all times and in every +direction. Nothing is fat, as nothing can obtain rest, the +innumerable birds and beasts of prey give no peace to the weaker +kinds; the fattest alderman of the city of London would become a +skeleton, if hunted for two hours daily by a hyaena. + +"October 23.--This evening I took a walk, accompanied by my wife, +and Bacheet with a spare gun, to try for a shot at guinea-fowl. +We were strolling along the margin of the river, when we heard a +great shrieking of women on the opposite side, in the spot from +which the people of Sofi fetch their water. About a dozen women +had been filling their water-skins, when suddenly they were +attacked by a large crocodile, who attempted to seize a woman, +but she, springing back, avoided it, and the animal swallowed her +girba (water-skin), that, being full of water and of a brown +exterior, resembled the body of a woman. The women rushed out of +the river, when the crocodile made a second dash at them, and +seized another water-skin that a woman had dropped in her flight. +They believe this to be the same monster that took a woman a few +months ago. Few creatures are so sly and wary as the crocodile. +I watch them continually as they attack the dense flocks of small +birds that throng the bushes at the water's edge. These birds are +perfectly aware of the danger, and they fly from the attack, if +possible. The crocodile then quietly and innocently lies upon the +surface, as though it had appeared quite by an accident; it thus +attracts the attention of the birds, and it slowly sails away to +a considerable distance, exposed to their view. The birds, thus +beguiled by the deceiver, believe that the danger is removed, and +they again flock to the bush, and once more dip their thirsty +beaks into the stream. Thus absorbed in slaking their thirst, +they do not observe that their enemy is no longer on the surface. +A sudden splash, followed by a huge pair of jaws beneath the bush +that engulfs some dozens of victims, is the signal unexpectedly +given of the crocodile's return, who has thus slyly dived, and +hastened under cover of water to his victims. I have seen the +crocodiles repeat this manoeuvre constantly; they deceive by a +feigned retreat, and then attack from below. + +"In like manner the crocodile perceives, while it is floating on +the surface in mid-stream, or from the opposite side of the +river, a woman filling her girba, or an animal drinking, &c. &c. +Sinking immediately, it swims perhaps a hundred yards nearer, and +again appearing for an instant upon the surface, it assures +itself of the position of its prey by a stealthy look; once more +it sinks, and reaches the exact spot above which the person or +animal may be. Seeing distinctly through the water, it generally +makes its fatal rush from beneath--sometimes seizing with its +jaws, and at other times striking the object into the water with +its tail, after which it is seized and carried off. + +"The crocodile does not attempt to swallow a large prey at once, +but generally carries it away and keeps it for a considerable +time in its jaws in some deep hole beneath a rock, or the root of +a tree, where it eats it at leisure. The tongue of the crocodile +is so unlike that of any other creature that it can hardly be +called by the same name; no portion throughout the entire length +is detached from the flesh of the lower jaw--it is more like a +thickened membrane from the gullet to about half way along the +length of jaw. + +"October 4.--Having burnt off a large surface of high grass, I +discovered a quantity of gourds and wild cucumbers--the latter +are bright crimson, covered with long fleshy prickles, with black +horny tips; these are eaten by the baboons, but not by the Arabs. +The gourds are only serviceable for cups and ladles manufactured +from their shells. + +"I find a good pair of Highland shooting shoes of great value; +the soles were exceedingly thick, and they have resisted, until +now, the intensely hard and coarse-grained sandstone which grinds +through all leather. My soles are at length worn out, and I have +repaired them with the tanned hide of giraffe. Much of the +sandstone is white and soft and friable; but this appears to have +been decomposed by time and exposure, as the generality is hard +and would make excellent grindstones. + +"October 25.--Three elephant-hunters arrived to-day with horses +for sale. I purchased three--a bay and two greys. They are all of +Abyssinian breed, and are handsome animals, although none exceed +fourteen hands and a half. The prices were high for this part of +the world where dollars are scarce; but to me, they appeared to +be absurdly cheap. The bay horse was a regular strong-built cob; +for him I paid nineteen dollars--about 4l. including a native +saddle and bridle; for the greys, I paid fifteen and thirteen +dollars, saddles and bridles also included. The bay I named Tetel +(hartebeest), the greys Aggahr* and Gazelle. Tetel was a trained +hunter, as was Aggahr likewise. Gazelle was quite inexperienced, +but remarkably handsome. None of these horses had ever been shod, +but their hoofs were beautifully shaped, and as hard as ivory. +The saddles had no stuffing on the seats, but were simple wooden +frames, with high backs and pommels, the various pieces being +sewn together with raw hide, and the front and back covered with +crocodile skin. The stirrups were simple iron rings, sufficiently +large to admit the great toe of the rider, according to Arab +fashion in these parts. The bits were dreadfully severe; but +perhaps not unnecessarily, as the sword allows only one +bridle-hand to a pulling horse. Each horse was furnished with a +leathern nose-bag, and a long leathern thong as a picket strap. +All these horses and saddlery I had purchased for forty-seven +dollars, or 9l. 1Os. Fortunately, both my wife and I were well +provided with the best English saddles, bridles, &c. or the 'big +toe' stirrup would have been an awkward necessity. + + * Aggahr is the designation of a hunter with the sword. + +"October 26.--We left our camp this morning for a few days' +reconnaissance of the country, accompanied by Florian, prior to +commencing our regular expedition. Nine miles S.E. of Ehetilla we +passed through a village called Wat el Negur, after which we +continued along a great tract of table land, on the eastern side +of the Atbara valley, bounded by a mimosa forest about four miles +on the east. Very large quantities of dhurra (Sorghum vulgare) +are grown upon this fertile soil; it is now higher than a man's +head when mounted upon a camel. Far as the eye can reach, the +great table lands extend on either side the broad valley of the +Atbara. The cotton that was planted many years ago by the +inhabitants who have vanished, still flourishes, although choked +with grass six or seven feet high. At 4 P.M. we reached a large +village, Sherif el Ibrahim, twenty-eight miles S.E. from Sofi by +the route upon the east bank of the Atbara, which cuts off a bend +in the river. A species of dhurra, as sweet as the sugar-cane, +grows here in abundance, being regularly sown and cultivated; it +is called ankoleep. This is generally chewed in the mouth as a +cane; but it is also peeled by the women, and, when dried, it is +boiled with milk to give it sweetness. A grain called dochan, a +species of millet, is likewise cultivated to a considerable +extent; when ripe, it somewhat resembles the head of the bulrush. +The whole of this country would grow cotton and sugar to +perfection. + +"October 28.--Having slept at the village, we went to the river, +and Florian shot a hippopotamus. The natives, having skinned it, +rushed at the carcase with knives and axes, and fought over it +like a pack of wolves; neither did they leave the spot until they +had severed each bone, and walked off with every morsel, of this +immense beast. + +"October 31.--Having passed a couple of days at Sherif el +Ibrahim, we started for the Settite. When about half way, we +arrived at a curious plateau of granite rock, with a pool of +water in the centre. Formerly a large village occupied this +position, named Gerrarat; but it was destroyed in a raid by the +Egyptians, as being one of Mek Nimmur's strongholds. The rock is +a flat surface of about five acres, covered with large detached +fragments of granite; near this are several pools of water, which +form the source of the rivulet, the Till, that bounds our camp at +Ehetilla. A large homera-tree (Adansonia digitata) grows among +the blocks of granite by the pool; in the shade of its enormous +boughs we breakfasted, and again started at 4 P.M. reaching the +Settite river at 7.3O, at a spot named Geera. In the dark we had +some difficulty in finding our way down the rugged slopes of the +valley to the river. We had not taken beds, as these incumbrances +were unnecessary when in light marching order. We therefore made +separate bivouacs, Florian and his people about a hundred yards +distant, while a rug laid upon the ground was sufficient for my +wife. I made myself comfortable in a similar manner. Lions were +roaring all night. + +"On the following morning we took a long stroll along the wild +and rugged valley of the Settite, that was precisely similar to +that of the Atbara. The river, although low, was a noble stream, +and the water was at this season beautifully clear as it ran over +a bed of clean pebbles. The pass between the cliffs of Geera was +exceedingly lovely. At that point the river did not exceed 200 +yards in width, and it flowed through abrupt cliffs of beautiful +rose-coloured limestone; so fine and pure was the surface of the +stone, that in places it resembled artificially-smoothed marble; +in other places, the cliffs, equally abrupt, were of milk-white +limestone of similar quality. This was the first spot in which I +had found limestone since I had left Lower Egypt. The name +'Geera,' in Arabic, signifies lime. Formerly this was an +important village belonging to Mek Nimmur, but it had been +destroyed by the Egyptians, and the renowned Mek Nimmur was +obliged to fall back to the strongholds of the mountains. + +"I started off a man to recall Mahomet and my entire camp fronm +Ehetilla to Wat el Negur, as that village was only seven hours' +march from Geera; the three points, Sherif el Ibrahim, Geera, and +Wat el Negur formed almost an equilateral triangle. We reached +the latter village on the following day, and found that Mahomet +and a string of camels from Sofi had already arrived. The country +was now thickly populated on the west bank of the Atbara, as the +Arabs and their flocks had returned after the disappearance of +the seroot fly. Mahomet had had an accident, having fallen from +his camel and broken no bones, but he had smashed the stock of my +single-barrel rifle; this was in two pieces; I mended it, and it +become stronger than ever. The wood had broken short off in the +neck of the stock, I therefore bored a hole about three inches +deep up the centre of either piece, so that it was hollowed like +a marrow-bone; in one of them I inserted a piece of an iron +ramrod, red-hot, I then drew the other piece over the iron in a +similar manner, and gently tapped the shoulder-plate until I had +driven the broken joint firmly together. I then took off from a +couple of old boxes two strong brass hasps; these I let neatly +into the wood on each side of the broken stock, and secured them +by screws, filing off all projections, so that they fitted +exactly. I finished the work by stretching a piece of well-soaked +crocodile's skin over the joint, which, when drawn tight, I sewed +strongly together. When this dried it became as hard as horn, and +very much stronger; the extreme contraction held the work +together like a vice, and my rifle was perfectly restored. A +traveller in wild countries should always preserve sundry +treasures that will become invaluable, such as strips of +crocodile skin, the hide of the iguana, &c. which should be kept +in the tool-box for cases of need. The tool-box should not exceed +two feet six inches in length, and one foot in depth, but it +should contain the very best implements that can be made, with an +extra supply of gimlets, awls, centre-bits, and borers of every +description, also tools for boring iron; at least two dozen files +of different sorts should be included." + +Wat el Negur was governed by a most excellent and polite sheik of +the Jalyn tribe. Sheik Achmet Wat el Negur was his name and +title; being of the same race as Mek Nimmur, he dared to occupy +the east bank of the Atbara. Sheik Achmet was a wise man; he was +a friend of the Egyptian authorities, to whom he paid tribute as +though it were his greatest pleasure; he also paid tribute to Mek +Nimmur, with whom he was upon the best of terms; therefore, in +the constant fights that took place upon the borders, the cattle +and people of Sheik Achmet were respected by the contending +parties, while those of all others were sufferers. This was +exactly the spot for my head-quarters, as, like Sheik Achmet, I +wished to be on good terms with everybody, and through him I +should be able to obtain an introduction to Mek Nimmur, whom I +particularly wished to visit, as I had heard that there never was +such a brigand. Accordingly, I pitched the tents and formed a +camp upon the bank of the river, about two hundred yards below +the village of Wat el Negur, and in a short time Sheik Achmet and +I became the greatest friends. + +There is nothing more delightful when travelling in a strange +country, a thousand miles away from the track of the wildest +tourist, than to come upon the footprint of a countryman; not the +actual mark of his sole upon the sand, which the dust quickly +obscures, but to find imprinted deeply upon the minds and +recollections of the people, the good character of a former +traveller, that insures you a favourable introduction. Many years +before I visited Wat el Negur, Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who has +certainly written the best book on Abyssinia that I have ever +read, passed through this country, having visited Mek Nimmur, the +father of the present Mek. He was, I believe, the only European +that had ever been in Mek Nimmur's territory, neither had his +footsteps been followed until my arrival. Mr. Parkyns had left +behind him what the Arabs call a "sweet name;" and as I happened +to have his book, "Life in Abyssinia," with me, I showed it to +the sheik as his production, and explained the illustrations, +&c.; at the same time I told him that Mr. Parkyns had described +his visit to Mek Nimmur, of whom he had spoken very highly, and +that I wished to have an opportunity of telling the great chief +in person how much his good reception had been appreciated. The +good Sheik Achmet immediately promised to present me to Mek +Nimmur, and wished particularly to know whether I intended to +write a book like Mr. Parkyns upon my return. Should I do so, he +requested me to mention HIS name. I promised at once to do this +trifling favour; thus I have the greatest pleasure in certifying +that Sheik Achmet Wat el Negur is one of the best and most +agreeable fellows that I have ever met in Africa; he does not +keep an hotel, or I would strongly recommend it to all +travellers, but his welcome is given gratis, with the warmest +hospitality. + +The country for several miles upon the table land above Wat el +Negur was highly cultivated, and several thousand acres were +planted with dhurra, that was at this season in full grain, and +nearly ripe. Much sesame was grown for the manufacture of oil; +cotton was also cultivated, and the neighbourhood was a fair +example of the wonderful capabilities of the entire country that +was allowed to lie in idleness. There was little rest for the +inhabitants at this time, as the nights were spent in watching +their extensive plantations, and endeavouring to scare away the +elephants. These animals, with extreme cunning, invaded the +dhurra crops at different positions every night, and retreated +before morning to great distances in the thick thorny jungles of +the Settite. + +Our arrival was welcomed with general enthusiasm, as the Arabs +were unprovided with fire-arms, and the celebrated aggageers or +sword-hunters were useless, as the elephants only appeared at +night, and were far too cunning to give them a chance. There was +a particular range of almost impenetrable thorny covert in the +neighbourhood of Geera, well known as the asylum for these +animals, to which they retreated, after having satiated +themselves by a few hours' feeding upon the crops of corn. I +promised to assist in protecting the plantations, although the +Arabs assured me that, in spite of our rifles, the elephants +would return every night. + +Wishing to judge personally of the damage, I rode up to the +dhurra-fields, and for a few hours I examined the crops, through +which I could ride with ease, as the plants were arranged like +hops. + +Many acres were absolutely destroyed, as the elephants had not +only carefully stripped off the heavy heads of corn, but had +trampled down and wilfully broken much more than they had +consumed. The Arabs knew nothing about guns, or their effect upon +elephants, and I felt quite sure that a few nights with the heavy +rifles would very soon scare them from the fields. + +I return to my journal. + +"November 7.--In the middle of last night I was disturbed by the +Arabs, who begged me to get up and shoot the elephants that were +already in the plantations. This I refused to do, as I will not +fire a shot until they call in their watchers, and leave the +fields quiet. A few nights ago there was a perfect uproar from a +score of watchers, that prevented the elephants from coming at +the very time that the people had induced me to pass the whole +night in the fields. I have arranged that the sheik shall call in +all these watchers, and that they shall accompany me to-morrow +night. I will then post myself in the centre of the plantations, +dividing the men into many parties at all points, to return +quietly to me and report the position that the elephants may have +taken. + +"This morning I purchased a kid for two piastres (five pence). +The sheik is exceedingly civil, and insists upon sending me daily +supplies of milk and vegetables. + +"This afternoon, accompanied by my wife, I accepted an invitation +to shoot a savage old bull hippopotamus that had been +sufficiently impertinent to chase several of the natives. He +lived in a deep and broad portion of the river, about two miles +distant. We accordingly rode to the spot, and found the old hippo +at home. The river was about 250 yards wide at this place, in an +acute bend that had formed a deep pool. In the centre of this was +a mud bank, just below the surface; upon this shallow bed the +hippo was reposing. Upon perceiving us he was exceedingly saucy, +snorting at my party, and behaving himself in a most absurd +manner, by shaking his head and leaping half-way out of the +water. This plunging demonstration was intended to frighten us. +I had previously given Bacheet a pistol, and had ordered him to +follow on the opposite bank from the ford at Wat el Negur. I now +hallooed to him to fire several shots at the hippo, in order to +drive him, if possible, towards me, as I lay in ambush behind a +rock in the bed of the river. Bacheet descended the almost +perpendicular bank to the water's edge, and after having chaffed +the hippo considerably, he fired a shot with the pistol, which +was far more dangerous to us on the opposite side than to the +animal. The hippo, who was a wicked solitary old bull, accustomed +to have his own way, returned the insult by charging towards +Bacheet with a tremendous snorting, that sent him scrambling up +the steep bank in a panic, amidst a roar of laughter from the +people on my side concealed in the bushes. In this peal of +merriment I thought I could distinguish a voice closely +resembling that of my wife. However, Bacheet, who had always +longed to be brought face to face with some foe worthy of his +steel, had bolted, and he now stood safe in his elevated position +on the top of the bank, thirty feet above the river, and fired +the second barrel in bold defiance at the hippopotamus. + +"As the hippo had gained confidence, I showed myself above the +rock, and called to him, according to Arab custom, 'Hasinth! +Hasinth!'* He, thinking no doubt that he might as well hunt me +away, gave a loud snort, sank, and quickly reappeared about a +hundred yards from me; but nearer than this he positively refused +to approach. I therefore called to Bacheet to shout from the +other side to attract his attention, and as he turned his head, +I took a steady shot behind the ear with the little Fletcher +rifle. This happened to be one of those fortunate shots that +consoles you for many misses, and the saucy old hippo turned upon +his back and rolled about in tremendous struggles, lashing the +still and deep pool into waves, until he at length disappeared. +We knew that he was settled; thus my people started off towards +the village, and in a marvellousiy short time a frantic crowd of +Arabs arrived with camels, ropes, axes, knives, and everything +necessary for an onslaught upon the hippo, who, up to this time, +had not appeared upon the surface. In about an hour and a half +from the time he received the bullet, we discovered his carcase +floating about two hundred yards lower down the river. Several +heads of large crocodiles appeared and vanished suddenly within +a few feet of the floating carcase, therefore the Arabs +considered it prudent to wait until the stream should strand the +body upon the pebbly shallows about half a mile below the pool. +Upon arrival at that point, there was a general rush, and the +excited crowd secured the hippo by many ropes, and hauled it to +the shore. It was a very fine bull, as the skin without the head +measured twelve feet three inches. I had two haunches kept for +the sheik, and a large quantity of fat, which is highly and +deservedly prized by the Arabs, as it is the most delicate of any +animal. Those portions secured, with a reserve of meat for +ourselves, the usual disgusting scene of violence commenced, the +crowd falling upon the carcase like maddened hyaenas. + + * Hasinth is the Arabic for hippopotamus. + +"In the evening I resolved to watch the dhurra fields for +elephants. At about 9 P.M. I arrived in the plantations, with +three men carrying spare guns, among whom was Bacheet, who had at +length an opportunity for which he had long yearned. I entrusted +to him the 'Baby,' which he promised to put into my hands the +very moment that I should fire my second barrel. I carried my own +Ceylon No. 10, made by Beattie. We had not been half an hour in +the dhurra fields before we met a couple of Arab watchers, who +informed us that a herd of elephants was already in the +plantation; we accordingly followed our guides. In about a +quarter of an hour we distinctly heard the cracking of the dhurra +stems, as the elephants browsed, and trampled them beneath their +feet. + +"Taking the proper position of the wind, I led our party +cautiously in the direction of the sound, and in about five +minutes I came in view of the slate-coloured and dusky forms of +the herd. The moon was bright, and I counted nine elephants; they +had trampled a space of about fifty yards square into a barren +level, and they were now slowly moving forward, feeding as they +went. One elephant, unfortunately, was separated from the herd, +and was about forty yards in the rear; this fellow I was afraid +would render our approach difficult. Cautioning my men, +especially Bacheet, to keep close to me with the spare rifles, I +crept along the alleys formed by the tall rows of dhurra, and +after carefully stalking against the wind, I felt sure that it +would be necessary to kill the single elephant before I should be +able to attack the herd. Accordingly, I crept nearer and nearer, +well concealed in the favourable crop of high and sheltering +stems, until I was within fifteen yards of the hindmost animal. +As I had never shot one of the African species, I was determined +to follow the Ceylon plan, and get as near as possible; therefore +I continued to creep from row to row of dhurra, until I at length +stood at the very tail of the elephant in the next row. I could +easily have touched it with my rifle, but just at this moment, it +either obtained my wind, or it heard the rustle of the men. It +quickly turned its head half round towards me; in the same +instant I took the temple shot, and, by the flash of the rifle, +I saw that it fell. Jumping forward past the huge body, I fired +the left-hand barrel at an elephant that had advanced from the +herd; it fell immediately! Now came the moment for a grand rush, +as they stumbled in confusion over the last fallen elephant, and +jammed together in a dense mass with their immense ears +outspread, forming a picture of intense astonishment! Where were +my spare guns? Here was a grand opportunity to run in and floor +them right and left! + +"Not a man was in sight, everybody had bolted! and I stood in +advance of the dead elephant calling for my guns in vain. At +length one of my fellows came up, but it was too late, the fallen +elephant in the herd had risen from the ground, and they had all +hustled off at a great pace, and were gone; I had only bagged one +elephant. Where was the valiant Bacheet? the would-be Nimrod, who +for the last three months had been fretting in inactivity, and +longing for the moment of action, when he had promised to be my +trusty gun-bearer! He was the last man to appear, and he only +ventured from his hiding-place in the high dhurra when assured of +the elephants' retreat. I was obliged to admonish the whole party +by a little physical treatment, and the gallant Bacheet returned +with us to the village, crestfallen and completely subdued. On +the following day not a vestige remained of the elephant, except +the offal: the Arabs had not only cut off the flesh, but they had +hacked the skull and the bones in pieces, and carried them off to +boil down for soup." + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE FORD. + +Two months had elapsed since the last drop of rain had closed the +wet season. It was 15th November, and the river had fallen to so +low an ebb that the stream was reduced to a breadth of about +eighty yards of bright and clear water, rushing in places with +great rapidity through the centre of its broad and stony bed, +while in sudden bends of the channel it widened into still, and +exceedingly deep pools. We were encamped exactly upon the verge +of a perpendicular cliff, from which there was a rugged path to +the dry channel some thirty feet below, which shelved rapidly +towards the centre occupied by the stream. In this spot were +powerful rapids, above which to our left was a ford, at this time +about waist-deep, upon a bed of rock that divided the lower +rapids from a broad and silent pool above: across this ford the +women of the village daily passed to collect their faggots of +wood from the bushes on the opposite side. I had shot a +crocodile, and a marabou stork, and I was carefully plucking the +plume of beautiful feathers from the tail of the bird, surrounded +by a number of Arabs, when I observed a throng of women, each +laden with a bundle of wood, crossing the ford in single file +from the opposite bank. Among them were two young girls of about +fifteen, and I remarked that these, instead of marching in a line +with the women, were wading hand-in-hand in dangerous proximity +to the head of the rapids. A few seconds later, I noticed that +they were inclining their bodies up stream, and were evidently +struggling with the current. Hardly had I pointed out the danger +to the men around me, when the girls clung to each other, and +striving against their fate they tottered down the stream towards +the rapids, which rushed with such violence that the waves were +about two feet high. With praiseworthy speed the Arabs started to +their feet, and dashed down the deep descent towards the river, +but before they had reached half way, the girls uttered a shriek, +lost their footing, and in another instant they threw their arms +wildly above their heads, and were hurried away in the foam of +the rapids. One disappeared immediately; the other was visible, +as her long black hair floated on the surface; she also sank. +Presently, about twenty yards below the spot, a pair of naked +arms protruded high above the surface, with ivory bracelets upon +the wrists, and twice the hands clapped together as though +imploring help; again she disappeared. The water was by this time +full of men, who had rushed to the rescue; but they had foolishly +jumped in at the spot where they had first seen the girls, who +were of course by this time carried far away by the torrent. Once +more, farther down the river, the hands and bracelets appeared; +again they wildly clapped together, and in the clear water we +could plainly see the dark hair beneath. Still, she sank again; +but almost immediately she rose head and shoulders above the +surface, and thrice she again clapped her hands for aid. + +This was her last effort; she disappeared. By the time several +men had wisely run along the bank below the tail of the rapids, +and having formed a line across a very narrow portion of the +stream, one of them suddenly clutched an object beneath the water +and in another moment he held the body of the girl in his arms. +Of course she was dead? or a fit subject for the Royal Humane +Society?--So I supposed; when to our intense astonishment, she no +sooner was brought to the shore than she gave herself a shake, +threw back her long hair, wrung out and arranged her dripping +rahat, and walked leisurely back to the ford, which she crossed +with the assistance of the Arab who had saved her. + +What she was composed of I cannot say; whether she was the +offspring of a cross between mermaid and hippopotamus, or hatched +from the egg of a crocodile, I know not, but a more wonderfully +amphibious being I have rarely seen. + +During this painful scene, in which one girl had been entirely +lost, the mother of her who was saved had rushed to meet her +child as she landed from the ford; but instead of clasping her to +her heart, as we had expected, she gave her a maternal welcome by +beating her most unmercifully with her fists, bestowing such +lusty blows upon her back that we could distinctly hear them at +a distance of fifty yards; this punishment, we were given to +understand, served her perfectly right, for having been foolish +enough to venture near the rapids. The melancholy death-howl was +now raised by all the women in the village, while the men +explored the river in search of the missing body. On the +following morning the sheik appeared at my tent, with a number of +Arabs who had been unsuccessful, and he begged me, if possible, +to suggest some means for the discovery of the girl, as her +remains should be properly interred. + +I proposed that they should procure a log of heavy wood, as near +as possible the size of the girl, and that this should be thrown +into the rapids, in the exact spot where she had disappeared; +this, being nearly the same weight, would be equally acted upon +by the stream, and would form a guide which they should follow +until it should lead them to some deep eddy, or whirlpool formed +by a backwater; should the pilot log remain in such a spot, they +would most probably find the body in the same place. The men +immediately procured a log, and set off with the sheik himself to +carry out the experiment. In the afternoon, we heard a terrible +howling and crying, and a crowd of men and women returned to the +village, some of whom paid us a visit; they had found the body. +The log had guided them about two miles distant, and had remained +stationary in a backwater near where I had shot the bull +hippopotamus; in this still pool, close to the bank, they almost +immediately discovered the girl floating slightly beneath the +surface. No crocodile had injured the body, but the fish had +destroyed a portion of the face; it was already so far advanced +in decomposition, that it was necessary to bury it upon the +margin of the river, at the spot where it was discovered. The +people came to thank me for having originated the idea, and the +very agreeable sheik spent the evening with us with a number of +his people; this was his greatest delight, and we had become +thoroughly accustomed to his daily visits. At such times we sat +upon an angarep, while he sat upon a mat stretched upon the +ground, with a number of his men, who formed a half-circle around +him; he then invariably requested that we would tell him stories +about England. Of these he never tired, and with the assistance +of Mahomet we established a regular entertainment; the great +amusement of the Arabs being the mistakes that they readily +perceived were made by Mahomet as interpreter. We knew sufficient +Arabic to check and to explain his errors. + +The death of the girl gave rise to a conversation upon drowning: +this turned upon the subject of the girl herself and ended in a +discussion upon the value of women; the question originating in +a lament on the part of the sheik that a nice young girl had been +drowned instead of a useless old woman. The sheik laid down the +law with great force, "that a woman was of no use when she ceased +to be young, unless she was a good strong person who could grind +corn, and carry water from the river;" in this assertion he was +seconded, and supported unanimously by the crowd of Arabs +present. + +Now it was always a common practice among the Arab women, when +they called upon my wife, to request her to show her hands; they +would then feel the soft palms and exclaim in astonishment, "Ah! +she has never ground corn!" that being the duty of a wife unless +she is rich enough to possess slaves. Sheik Achmet requested me +to give him some account of our domestic arrangements in England; +I did this as briefly as possible, explaining how ladies received +our devoted attentions, extolling their beauty and virtue, and in +fact giving him an idea that England was paradise, and that the +ladies were angels. I described the variety of colours; that +instead of all being dark, some were exceedingly fair; that +others had red hair; that we had many bright black eyes, and some +irresistible dark blue; and at the close of my descriptions I +believe the sheik and his party felt disposed to emigrate +immediately to the chilly shores of Great Britain; they asked, +"How far off is your country?" "Well," said the sheik, with a +sigh, "that must be a very charming country; how could you +possibly come away from all your beautiful wives? True, you have +brought one with you: she is, of course, the youngest and most +lovely; perhaps those you have left at home are the OLD ONES!" I +was obliged to explain, that we are contented with one wife, and +that even were people disposed to marry two, or more, they would +be punished with imprisonment. This announcement was received +with a general expression of indignation; the sheik and his +party, who a few minutes ago were disposed to emigrate, and +settle upon our shores, would now at the most have ventured upon +a return ticket. After some murmurs of disapprobation, there was +a decided expression of disbelief in my last statement. "Why," +said the sheik, "the fact is simply IMPOSSIBLE! How CAN a man be +contented with one wife? It is ridiculous, absurd! What is he to +do when she becomes old? When she is young, if very lovely, +perhaps, he might be satisfied with her, but even the young must +some day grow old, and the beauty must fade. The man does not +fade like the woman; therefore, as he remains the same for many +years, but she changes in a few years, Nature has arranged that +the man shall have young wives to replace the old; does not the +Prophet allow it? Had not our forefathers many wives? and shall +we have but one? Look at yourself. Your wife is young, and" (here +the sheik indulged in compliments), "but in ten years she will +not be the same as now; will you not then let her have a nice +house all to herself, when she grows old, while you take a fresh +young wife?" + +I was obliged to explain to the sheik that, first, our ladies +never looked old; secondly, they improved with age; and thirdly, +that we were supposed to love our wives with greater ardour as +they advanced in years. This was received with an ominous shake +of the head, coupled with the exclamation, "Mashallah!" repeated +by the whole party. This was the moment for a few remarks on +polygamy: I continued, "You men are selfish; you expect from the +woman that which you will not give in return, 'constancy and +love;' if your wife demanded a multiplicity of husbands, would it +not be impossible to love her? how can she love you if you insist +upon other wives ?" "Ah!" he replied, "our women are different to +yours, they would not love anybody; look at your wife, she has +travelled with you far away from her own country, and her heart +is stronger than a man's; she is afraid of nothing, because you +are with her; but our women prefer to be far away from their +husbands, and are only happy when they have nothing whatever to +do. You don't understand our women, they are ignorant creatures, +and when their youth is past are good for nothing but to work. +You have explained your customs; your women are adored by the +men, and you are satisfied with one wife, either young or old; +now I will explain our customs. I have four wives; as one has +become old, I have replaced her with a young one; here they all +are" (he now marked four strokes upon the sand with his stick). +"This one carries water; that grinds the corn; this makes the +bread; the last does not do much, as she is the youngest, and my +favourite; and if they neglect their work, they get a taste of +this!" (shaking a long and, tolerably thick stick). "Now, that's +the difference between our establishments; yours is well adapted +for your country, and ours is the best plan for our own." + +I would not contradict the sheik; the English greatcoat was not +the garment for the scorching Soudan, and English ideas were +equally unsuited to the climate and requirements of the people. +The girls were utterly ignorant, and the Arabs had never heard of +a woman who could read and write; they were generally pretty when +young, but they rapidly grew old after childbirth. Numbers of +young girls and women were accustomed to bathe perfectly naked in +the river just before our tent; I employed them to catch small +fish for baits and for hours they would amuse themselves in this +way, screaming with excitement and fun, and chasing the small fry +with their long clothes in lieu of nets; their figures were +generally well shaped, but both men and women fell off in the +development of the legs. Very few had well-shaped calves, but +remarkably thin and cleanly formed ankles, with very delicately +shaped feet. The men were constantly bathing in the clear waters +of the Atbara, and were perfectly naked, although close to the +women; we soon became accustomed to this daily scene, as we do at +Brighton and other English bathing-towns. + +Our life at Wat el Negur was anything but disagreeable; we had +acquired great fame in several ways: the game that I shot I +divided among the people; they also took an interest in the +fishing, as they generally had a large share of all that I +caught; my wife was very kind to all the children, and to the +women, who came from great distances to see her; and my character +as a physician having been spread far and wide, we became very +celebrated people. Of course I was besieged daily by the maimed, +the halt, and the blind, and the poor people, with much +gratitude, would insist upon bringing fowls and milk in return +for our attention to their wants. These I would never accept, but +on many occasions, upon my refusal, the women would untie the +legs of a bundle of chickens, and allow them to escape in our +camp, rather than be compelled to return with their offering. +Even the fakeers (priests) were our great friends, although we +were Christians, and in my broken Arabic, with the assistance of +Mahomet, I used to touch upon theological subjects. At first they +expressed surprise that such clever people as the English should +worship idols made of wood, or other substances, by the hands of +man. I explained to them their error, as we were Protestants in +England, who had protested against the practice of bowing down +before the figure of Christ or any other form; that we simply +worshipped God through Christ, believing Him to be both Saviour +and Mediator. I recalled to their recollection that Mahomet and +they themselves believed in Christ, as the greatest of all the +prophets, therefore in reality there was not so very wide a gulf +between their creed and our own; both acknowledging the same God; +both believing in Christ, although differing in the degree of +that belief. I allowed that Mahomet was a most wonderful man, and +that, if a cause is to be valued by its effect, he was as much +entitled to the name of prophet as Moses, the first law-giver. +Our arguments never became overheated, as these simple yet +steadfast Arabs, who held the faith of their forefathers +untarnished and uncorrupted by schisms, spoke more with reverence +to the great spirit of religion, than with the acrimony of +debate. "My brothers," I would reply, "we are all God's +creatures, believing in the one great Spirit who created us and +all things, who made this atom of dust that we call our world, a +tiny star amongst the hosts of heaven; and we, differing in +colours and in races, are striving through our short but weary +pilgrimage to the same high point; to the same mountain-top, +where we trust to meet when the journey shall be accomplished. +That mountain is steep, the country is desert; is there but one +path, or are there many? Your path and mine are different, but +with God's help they will lead us to the top. Shall we quarrel +over the well upon the thirsty way? or shall we drink together, +and be thankful for the cool waters, and strive to reach the end? +Drink from my water-skin when upon the desert we thirst together, +scorched by the same sun, exhausted by the same simoom, cooled by +the same night, until we sleep at the journey's end, and together +thank God, Christian and Mahometan, that we have reached our +home." + +The good fakeers rejoiced in such simple explanations, and they +came to the conclusion that we were "all the same with a little +difference," thus we were the best of friends with all the +people. If not exactly a cure of their Mahometan souls, they +acknowledged that I held the key to their bowels, which were +entirely dependent upon my will, when the crowd of applicants +daily thronged my medicine chest, and I dispensed jalap, calomel, +opium, and tartar emetic. Upon one occasion a woman brought me a +child of about fifteen months old, with a broken thigh; she had +fallen asleep upon her camel, and had allowed the child to fall +from her arms. I set the thigh, and secured it with gum bandages, +as the mimosas afforded the requisite material. About twenty +yards of old linen in bandages three inches broad, soaked in +thick gum-water, will form the best of splints when it becomes +dry and hard, which in that climate it will do in about an hour. +There was one complaint that I was obliged to leave entirely in +the hands of the Arabs, this was called "frendeet;" it was almost +the certain effect of drinking the water that in the rainy season +is accumulated in pools upon the surface of the rich table lands, +especially between the Atbara and Katariff; the latter is a +market-town about sixty miles from Wat el Negur, on the west bank +of the river. Frendeet commences with a swelling of one of the +limbs, generally accompanied with intense pain; this is caused by +a worm of several feet in length, but no thicker than +pack-thread. The Arab cure is to plaster the limb with cow-dung, +which is their common application for almost all complaints. They +then proceed to make what they term "doors," through which the +worm will be able to escape; but, should it not be able to find +one exit, they make a great number by the pleasant and simple +operation of pricking the skin in many places with a red-hot +lance. In about a week after these means of escape are provided, +one of the wounds will inflame, and assume the character of a +small boil, from which the head of the worm will issue. This is +then seized, and fastened either to a small reed or piece of +wood, which is daily and most gently wound round, until, in the +course of about a week, the entire worm will be extracted, unless +broken during the operation, in which case severe inflammation +will ensue. + +It was the 22d November, and the time was approaching when the +grass throughout the entire country would be sufficiently dry to +be fired; we accordingly prepared for our expedition, and it was +necessary to go to Katariff to engage men, and to procure a slave +in the place of old Masara, whose owner would not trust her in +the wild countries we were about to visit. We therefore mounted +our horses, and in two days we reached Katariff, rather less than +sixty miles distant. The journey was exceedingly uninteresting, +as the route lay across the monotonous flats of rich table land, +without a single object to attract the attention, except the long +line of villages which at intervals of about six miles lined the +way. During the dry weather (the present season) there was not a +drop of water in this country, except in wells far apart. Thus +the cattle within twenty miles of the Atbara were driven every +alternate day that great distance to the river, as the wells +would not supply the large herds of the Arabs; although the +animals could support life by drinking every alternate day, the +cows were dry upon the day of fasting; this proved a certain +amount of suffering. + +Upon arrival at Katariff we were hospitably received by a Greek +merchant, Michel Georgis, a nephew of the good old man from whom +we had received much attention while at Cassala. The town was a +miserable place, composed simply of the usual straw huts of the +Arabs; the market, or "Soog," was bi-weekly. Katariff was also +known by the name of "Soog Abou Sinn." + +I extract an entry from my journal.--"The bazaar held here is +most original. Long rows of thatched open sheds, about six feet +high, form a street; in these sheds the dealers squat with their +various wares exposed on the ground before them. In one, are +Manchester goods, the calicoes are printed in England, with the +name of the Greek merchant to whom they are consigned; in +another, is a curious collection of small wares, as though +samples of larger quantities, but in reality they are the +dealer's whole stock of sundries, which he deals out to numerous +purchasers in minute lots, for paras and half piastres, ginger, +cloves, chills, cardamoms, pepper, turmeric, orris root, saffron, +sandal-wood, musk, a species of moss that smells like patchouli, +antimony for colouring the eyes and lips, henna, glass beads, +cowrie shells, steels for striking fire, &c. &c. Other stalls +contain sword-blades, files, razors, and other hardware, all of +German manufacture, and of the most rubbishing kind. Mingled with +these, in the same stall, are looking-glasses, three inches +square, framed in coloured paper; slippers, sandals, &c. Other +sheds contain camel ropes and bells, saddlery of all descriptions +that are in general use, shoes, &c.; but the most numerous stalls +are those devoted to red pepper, beads, and perfumery." + +Beyond the main street of straw booths are vendors of +miscellaneous goods, squatting under temporary fan-shaped straw +screens, which are rented at the rate of five paras per day +(about a farthing); beneath these may be seen vendors of butter +and other grease, contained in a large jar by their side, while +upon a stone before them are arranged balls of fat which are sold +at five paras a lump. Each morsel is about the size of a +cricket-ball: this is supposed to be the smallest quantity +required for one dressing of the hair. Other screens are occupied +by dealers in ropes, mats, leathern bags, girbas or water-skins, +gum sacks, beans, waker, salt, sugar, coffee, &c. &c. Itinerant +snmiths are at work, making knife-blades, repairing spears, &c. +with small boys working the bellows, formed of simple leathern +bags that open and close by the pressure of two sticks. The +object that draws a crowd around him is a professional +story-teller, wonderfully witty, no doubt, as, being mounted upon +a camel from which he addresses his audience, he provokes roars +of merriment; his small eyes, overhanging brow, large mouth, with +thin and tightly compressed lips and deeply dimpled cheeks, +combined with an unlimited amount of brass, completed a picture +of professional shrewdness. + +Camels, cattle, and donkeys are also exposed for sale. The +average price for a baggage camel is twelve dollars; a hygeen, +from thirty to sixty dollars; a fat ox, from six to ten dollars +(the dollar at four shillings). + +Katariff is on the direct merchants' route from Cassala to +Khartoum. The charge for transport is accordingly low; a camel +loaded with six cantars (600 lbs.) from this spot to Cassala, can +be hired for one dollar, and from thence to Souakim, on the Red +Sea, for five dollars; thus all produce is delivered from +Katariff to the shipping port, at a charge of four shillings per +hundred pounds. Cotton might be grown to any extent on this +magnificent soil, and would pay the planter a large profit, were +regular steam communication established at a reasonable rate +between Souakimn and Suez. + +There is a fine grey limestone in the neighbourhood of Katariff. +The collection of people is exceedingly interesting upon a market +day, as Arabs of all tribes, Tokrooris, and some few Abyssinians, +concentrate from distant points. Many of the Arab women would be +exceedingly pretty were their beauty not destroyed by their +custom of gashing the cheeks in three wounds upon either side; +this is inflicted during infancy. Scars are considered +ornamental, and some of the women are much disfigured by such +marks upon their arms and backs; even the men, without exception, +are scarified upon their cheeks. The inhabitants of Kordofan and +Darfur, who are generally prized as slaves, are invariably +marked, not only with simple scars, but by cicatrices raised high +above the natural surface by means of salt rubbed into the +wounds; these unsightly deformities are considered to be great +personal attractions. The Arab women are full of absurd +superstitions; should a woman be in an interesting condition, she +will creep under the body of a strong camel, believing that the +act of passing between the fore and hind legs will endue her +child with the strength of the animal. Young infants are scored +with a razor longitudinally down the back and abdomen, to improve +their constitutions. + +I engaged six strong Tokrooris--natives of Darfur--who agreed to +accompany me for five months. These people are a tribe of +Mahometan negroes, of whom I shall speak more hereafter; they are +generally very powerful and courageous, and I preferred a few men +of this race to a party entirely composed of Arabs. Our great +difficulty was to procure a slave woman to grind the corn and to +make the bread for the people. No proprietor would let his slave +on hire to go upon such a journey, and it was impossible to start +without one; the only resource was to purchase the freedom of +some woman, and to engage her as a servant for the trip. Even +this was difficult, as slaves were scarce and in great demand: +however, at last I heard of a man who had a Galla slave who was +clever at making bread, as it had been her duty to make cakes for +sale in the bazaar upon market days. After some delays I +succeeded in obtaining an interview with both the master and +slave at the same time; the former was an Arab, hard at dealing, +but, as I did not wish to drive a bargain, I agreed to the price, +thirty-five dollars, 7l. The name of the woman was Barrake; she +was about twenty-two years of age, brown in complexion, fat, and +strong; rather tall, and altogether she was a fine +powerful-looking woman, but decidedly not pretty; her hair was +elaborately dressed in hundreds of long narrow curls, so thickly +smeared with castor oil that the grease had covered her naked +shoulders; in addition to this, as she had been recently under +the hands of the hairdresser, there was an amount of fat and +other nastiness upon her head that gave her the appearance of +being nearly grey. + +I now counted out thirty-five dollars, which I placed in two +piles upon the table, and through the medium of Mahomet I +explained to her that she was no longer a slave, as that sum had +purchased her freedom; at the same time, as it was a large amount +that I had paid, I expected she would remain with us as a servant +until our journey should be over, at which time she should +receive a certain sum in money, as wages at the usual rate. +Mahomet did not agree with this style of address to a slave, +therefore he slightly altered it in the translation, which I at +once detected. The woman looked frightened and uneasy at the +conclusion; I immediately asked Mahomet what he had told her. +"Same like master tell to me!" replied the indignant Mahomet. +"Then have the kindness to repeat to me in English what you said +to her;" I replied. "I tell that slave woman same like master's +word; I tell her master one very good master, she Barrake one +very bad woman; all that good dollars master pay, too much money +for such a bad woman. Now she's master's slave; she belong to +master like a dog; if she not make plenty of good bread, work +hard all day, early morning, late in night, master take a big +stick, break her head." + +This was the substance of a translation of my address tinged with +Mahomet's colouring, as being more adapted for the ears of a +slave!I My wife was present, and being much annoyed, we both +assured the woman that Mahomet was wrong, and I insisted upon his +explaining to her literally that "no Englishman could hold a +slave; that the money I had paid rendered her entirely free; that +she would not even be compelled to remain with us, but she could +do as she thought proper; that both her mistress and I should be +exceedingly kind to her, and we would subsequently find her a +good situation in Cairo; in the meantime she would receive good +clothes and wages." + +This, Mahomet, much against his will, was obliged to translate +literally. The effect was magical; the woman, who had looked +frightened and unhappy, suddenly beamed with smiles, and without +any warning she ran towards me, and in an instant I found myself +embraced in her loving arms; she pressed me to her bosom, and +smothered me with castor oily kisses, while her greasy ringlets +hung upon my face and neck. How long this entertainment would +have lasted I cannot tell, but I was obliged to cry "Caffa! +Caffa!" (enough! enough!) as it looked improper, and the +perfumery was too rich; fortunately my wife was present, but she +did not appear to enjoy it more than I did; my snow-white blouse +was soiled and greasy, and for the rest of the day I was a +disagreeable compound of smells, castor oil, tallow, musk, +sandal-wood, burnt shells, and Barrake. + +Mahomet and Barrake herself, I believe, were the only people who +really enjoyed this little event. "Ha!" Mahomet exclaimed, "this +is your own fault! You insisted upon speaking kindly, and telling +her that she is not a slave, now she thinks that she is one of +your WIVES!" This was the real fact; the unfortunate Barrake had +deceived herself; never having been free, she could not +understand the use of freedom unless she was to be a wife. She +had understood my little address as a proposal, and of course she +was disappointed; but, as an action for breach of promise cannot +be pressed in the Soudan, poor Barrake, although free, had not +the happy rights of a free-born Englishwoman, who can heal her +broken heart with a pecuniary plaster, and console herself with +damages for the loss of a lover. + +We were ready to start, having our party of servants complete, +six Tokrooris--Moosa, Abdoolahi, Abderachman, Hassan, Adow, and +Hadji Ali, with Mahomet, Wat Gamma, Bacheet, Mahomet secundus (a +groom), and Barrake; total eleven men and the cook. + +When half way to Wat el Negur, we found the whole country in +alarm, Mek Nimmur having suddenly made a foray. He had crossed +the Atbara, and plundered the district, and driven off large +numbers of cattle and camels, after having killed a considerable +number of people. No doubt the reports were somewhat exaggerated, +but the inhabitants of the district were flying from their +villages, with their herds, and were flocking to Katariff. We +arrived at Wat el Negur on the 3d of December, and we now felt +the advantage of our friendship with the good Sheik Achmet, who, +being a friend of Mek Nimmur, had saved our effects during our +absence; these would otherwise have been plundered, as the +robbers had paid him a visit;--he had removed our tents and +baggage to his own house for protection. Not only had he thus +protected our effects, but he had taken the opportunity of +delivering the polite message to Mek Nimmur that I had entrusted +to his charge--expressing a wish to pay him a visit as a +countryman and friend of Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who had formerly +been so well received by his father. + +In a few days the whole country was up. Troops of the Dabaina +Arabs, under the command of Mahmoud Wat Said (who had now assumed +the chieftainship of the tribe after the death of his brother +Atalan), gathered on the frontier, while about 2,000 Egyptian +regulars marched against Gellabat, and attacked the Abyssinians +and Tokrooris, who had united. Several hundreds of the Tokrooris +were killed, and the Abyssinians retreated to the mountains. +Large bodies of Egyptian irregulars threatened Mek Nimmur's +country, but the wily Mek was too much for them. The Jalyn Arabs +were his friends; and, although they paid tribute to the Egyptian +Government from their frontier villages, they acted as spies, and +kept Mek Nimmur au courant of the enemy's movements. The Hamran +Arabs, those mighty hunters with the sword, were thorough +Ishmaelites, and although nominally subject to Egypt, they were +well known as secret friends to Mek Nimmur; and it was believed +that they conveyed information of the localities where the +Dabaina and Shookeryha Arabs had collected their herds. Upon +these Mek Nimmur had a knack of pouncing unexpectedly, when he +was supposed to be a hundred miles in an opposite direction. + +The dry weather had introduced a season of anarchy along the +whole frontier. The Atbara was fordable in many places, and it no +longer formed the impassable barrier that necessitated peace. Mek +Nimmur (the Leopard King) showed the cunning and ability of his +namesake by pouncing upon his prey without a moment's warning, +and retreating with equal dexterity. This frontier warfare, +skilfully conducted by Mek Nimmur, was most advantageous to +Theodorus, the King of Abyssinia, as the defence of the boundary +was maintained against Egypt by a constant guerilla warfare. Upon +several occasions, expeditions on a large scale had been +organized against Mek Nimmur by the Governor-General of the +Soudan; but they had invariably failed, as he retreated to the +inaccessible mountains, where he had beaten them with loss, and +they had simply wreaked their vengeance by burning the deserted +villages of straw huts in the low lands, that a few dollars would +quickly rebuild. Mek Nimmur was a most unpleasant neighbour to +the Egyptian Government, and accordingly he was a great friend of +the King Theodorus; he was, in fact, a shield that protected the +heart of Abyssinia. + +As I have already described, the Base were always at war with +everybody; and as Mek Nimmur and the Abyssinians were constantly +fighting with the Egyptians, the passage of the Atbara to the +east bank was the commencement of a territory where the sword and +lance represented the only law. The Hamran Arabs dared not +venture with their flocks farther east than Geera, on the +Settite, about twenty-five miles from Wat el Negur. From the +point of junction of the Settite with the Atbara opposite Tomat +to Geera, they were now encamped with their herds upon the +borders of the river for the dry season. I sent a messenger to +their sheik, Owat, accompanied by Mahomet, with the firman of the +Viceroy, and I requested him to supply me with elephant-hunters +(aggageers) and guides to accompany me into the Base and Mek +Nimmur's country. + +My intention was to thoroughly examine all the great rivers of +Abyssinia that were tributaries to the Nile. These were the +Settite, Royan, Angrab, Salaam, Rahad, Dinder, and the Blue Nile. +If possible, I should traverse the Galla country, and crossing +the Blue Nile, I should endeavour to reach the White Nile. But +this latter idea I subsequently found impracticable, as it would +have interfered with the proper season for my projected journey +up the White Nile in search of the sources. + +During the absence of Mahomet, I received a very polite message +from Mek Nimmur, accompanied by a present of twenty pounds of +coffee, with an invitation to pay him a visit. His country lay +between the Settite river and the Bahr Salaam; thus without his +invitation I might have found it difficult to traverse his +territory;--so far, all went well. I returned my salaams, and +sent word that we intended to hunt through the Base country, +after which we should have the honour of passing a few days with +him on our road to the river Salaam, at which place we intended +to hunt elephants and rhinoceros. Mahomet returned, accompanied +by a large party of Hamran Arabs, including several hunters, one +of whom was Sheik Abou Do Roussoul, the nephew of Sheik Owat; as +his name in full was too long, he generally went by the +abbreviation "Abou Do." He was a splendid fellow, a little above +six feet one, with a light active figure, but exceedingly well +developed muscles: his face was strikingly handsome; his eyes +were like those of a giraffe, but the sudden glance of an eagle +lighted them up with a flash during the excitement of +conversation, which showed little of the giraffe's gentle +character. Abou Do was the only tall man of the party, the others +were of middle height, with the exception of a little fellow +named Jali, who was not above five feet four inches, but +wonderfully muscular, and in expression a regular daredevil. +There were two parties of hunters, one under Abou Do, and the +other consisting of four brothers Sherrif. The latter were the +most celebrated aggageers among the renowned tribe of the Hamran; +their father and grandfather had been mighty Nimrods, and the +broadswords wielded by their strong arms had descended to the men +who now upheld the prestige of the ancient blades. The eldest was +Taher Sherrif; his second brother, Roder Sherrif, was a very +small, active-looking man, with a withered left arm. An elephant +had at one time killed his horse, and on the same occasion had +driven its sharp tusk through the arm of the rider, completely +splitting the limb, and splintering the bone from the elbow-joint +to the wrist to such an extent, that by degrees the fragments had +sloughed away, and the arm had become shrivelled and withered. It +now resembled a mass of dried leather, twisted into a deformity, +without the slightest shape of an arm; this was about fourteen +inches in length from the shoulder; the stiff and crippled hand, +with contracted fingers, resembled the claw of a vulture. + +In spite of his maimed condition, Roder Sherrif was the most +celebrated leader in the elephant hunt. His was the dangerous +post to ride close to the head of the infuriated animal and +provoke the charge, and then to lead the elephant in pursuit, +while the aggageers attacked it from behind; it was in the +performance of this duty that he had met with the accident, as +his horse had fallen over some hidden obstacle, and was +immediately caught. Being an exceedingly light weight he had +continued to occupy this important position in the hunt, and the +rigid fingers of the left hand served as a hook, upon which he +could hang the reins. + +My battery of rifles was now laid upon a mat for examination; +they were in beautiful condition, and they excited the admiration +of the entire party. The perfection of workmanship did not appear +to interest them so much as the size of the bores; they thrust +their fingers down each muzzle, until they at last came to the +"Baby," when, finding that two fingers could be easily +introduced, they at once fell in love with that rifle in +particular. My men explained that it was a "Jenna el Mootfah" +(child of a cannon). "Sahe, Jenna el Mootfah kabeer," they +replied (it is true, it is the child of a very big cannon). Their +delight was made perfect by the exhibition of the half-pound +explosive shell, the effects of which were duly explained. I told +them that I was an old elephant hunter, but that I did not hunt +for the sake of the ivory, as I wished to explore the country to +discover the cause of the Nile inundations, therefore I wished to +examine carefully the various Abyssinian rivers; but as I had +heard they were wonderful sportsmen, I should like them to join +my party, and we could both hunt and explore together. They +replied that they knew every nook and corner of the entire +country as far as Mek Nimmur's and the Base, but that in the +latter country we must be prepared to fight, as they made a +practice of showing no quarter to the Base, because they received +none from them; thus we should require a strong party. I pointed +to my rifles, which I explained were odds against the Base, who +were without fire-arms; and we arranged to start together on the +17th of December. + +In the interval I was busily engaged in making bullets for the +journey, with an admixture of one pound of quicksilver to twelve +of lead. This hardens the bullet at the same time that it +increases the weight, but great caution must be observed in the +manufacture, as the mercury, being heavier than the lead, will +sink to the bottom, unless stirred with a red-hot iron when +mixed. The admixture must take place in small quantities, +otherwise the quicksilver will evaporate if exposed to a great +heat. Thus the molten lead should be kept upon the fire in a +large reservoir, while a portion of quicksilver should be added +regularly to every ladleful taken for immediate use. This should +be well stirred before it is poured into the mould. Bullets +formed of this mixture of metals are far superior to any others. + +My preparations for the journey were soon completed. We had +passed a most agreeable time at Wat el Negur. Although I had not +had much shooting, I gained much experienee in the country, +having made several extensive journeys in the neighbourhood, and +our constant conversations with the sheik had somewhat improved +my Arabic. I had discovered several plants hitherto unknown to +me,--among others, a peculiar bulb, from which I had prepared +excellent arrowroot. This produced several tubers resembling +sweet potatoes, but exceedingly long and thin; it was known by +the Arabs as "baboon." I pierced with a nail a sheet of tin from +the lining of a packing case, and I quickly improvised a grater, +upon which I reduced the bulb to pulp. This I washed in water, +and when strained through cotton cloth, it was allowed to settle +for several hours. The clear water was then poured off; and the +thick sediment, when dried in the sun, became arrowroot of the +best quality. The Arabs had no idea of this preparation, but +simply roasted the roots on the embers. + +On the 17th of August, 1861, accompanied by the German Florian, +we started from Wat el Negur, and said good-bye to our very kind +friend, Sheik Achmet, who insisted upon presenting us with a +strong but exceedingly light angarep (bedstead), suitable for +camel travelling, and an excellent water-skin, that we should be +constantly reminded of him, night and day. + +Florian was in a weak condition, as he had suffered much from +fever throughout the rainy season. He started under +disadvantageous circumstances, as he had purchased a horse that +was a bad bargain. The Arabs, who are sharp practitioners, had +dealt hardly with him, as they had sold him a wretched brute that +could make no other use of its legs than to kick. Of course they +had imposed upon poor Florian a long history of how this horse in +a giraffe hunt had been the first at the death, &c. &c., and he, +the deceived, had promised to shoot a hippopotamus to give them +in barter. This he had already done, and he had exchanged a river +horse, worth twenty dollars, for a terrestrial horse, worth +twenty piastres. + +Florian had never mounted a horse in his lifetime as his shooting +had always been on foot. This he now explained to us, although +the confession was quite unnecessary, as his first attempt at +mounting was made upon the wrong side. + +Throughout his journey to Geera on the Settite, there was a +constant difference of opinion between him and his new purchase, +until we suddenly heard a heavy fall. Upon looking back, I +perceived Florian like a spread eagle on his stomach upon the +ground, lying before the horse, who was quietly looking at his +new master. On another occasion, I heard a torrent of abuse +expressed in German, and upon turning round I found him clinging +to the neck of his animal, having lost both stirrups, while his +rifle had fallen to the ground. He was now cursing his beast, +whom he accused of wilful murder, for having replied by a kick to +a slight tap he had administered with a stick. I could not help +suggesting that he would find it awkward should he be obliged to +escape from an elephant upon that animal in rough and difficult +ground where good riding would be essential; and he declared that +nothing should tempt him either to hunt or to escape from any +beast on horseback, as he would rather trust to his legs. + +Upon arriving at Geera, we bivouacked upon the sandy bed of the +river, which had much changed in appearance since our last visit. +Although much superior to the Atbara, the stream was confined to +a deep channel about 120 yards wide, in the centre of the now dry +bed of rounded pebbles and sand. Exactly opposite were extensive +encampments of the Hamran Arabs, who were congregated in +thousands between this point and the Atbara junction. Their limit +for pasturage was about six miles up stream from Geera, beyond +which point they dare not trust their flocks on account of their +enemies, the Base. + +We were immediately visited, upon our arrival, by a number of +Arabs, including the Sheik Abou Do, from whom I purchased two +good milk goats to accompany us upon our journey. I had already +procured one at Wat el Negur in exchange for a few strips of +hippopotamus hide for making whips. + +Lions were roaring all night close to our sleeping place; there +were many of these animals in this neighbourhood, as they were +attracted by the flocks of the Arabs. + +On the following morning, at daybreak, several Arabs arrived with +a report that elephants had been drinking in the river within +half an hour's march of our sleeping place. I immediately started +with my men, accompanied by Florian, and we shortly arrived upon +the tracks of the herd. I had three Hamran Arabs as trackers, one +of whom, Taher Noor, had engaged to accompany us throughout the +expedition. + +For about eight miles we followed the spoor through high-dried +grass and thorny bush, until we at length arrived at dense jungle +of kittar,--the most formidable of the hooked thorn mimosas. Here +the tracks appeared to wander; some elephants having travelled +straight ahead, while others had strayed to the right and left. +While engaged in determining the path of the herd, we observed +four giraffes at about half a mile distant, but they had already +perceived us, and were in full flight. For about two hours we +travelled upon the circuitous tracks of the elephants to no +purpose, when we suddenly were startled by the shrill trumpet of +one of these animals in the thick thorns, a few hundred yards to +our left. The ground was so intensely hard and dry that it was +impossible to distinguish the new tracks from the old, which +crossed and recrossed in all directions. I therefore decided to +walk carefully along the outskirts of the jungle, trusting to +find their place of entrance by the fresh broken boughs. In about +an hour we had thus examined two or three miles, without +discovering a clue to their recent path, when we turned round a +clump of bushes, and suddenly came in view of two grand +elephants, standing at the edge of the dense thorns; having our +wind, they vanished instantly into the the jungle. We could not +follow them, as their course was down wind; we therefore made a +circuit to leeward for about a mile, and, finding that the +elephants had not crossed in that direction, we felt sure that we +must come upon them with the wind in our favour should they still +be within the thorny jungle; this was certain, as it was their +favourite retreat. + +With the greatest labour I led the way, creeping frequently upon +my hands and knees to avoid the hooks of the kittar bush, and +occasionally listening for a sound. At length, after upwards of +an hour passed in this slow and fatiguing advance, I distinctly +heard the flap of an elephant's ear, shortly followed by the deep +guttural sigh of one of those animals, within a few paces, but so +dense was the screen of jungle that I could see nothing. We +waited for some minutes, but not the slightest sound could be +heard; the elephants were aware of danger, and they were, like +ourselves, listening attentively for the first intimation of an +enemy. This was a highly exciting moment; should they charge, +there would not be a possibility of escape, as the hooked thorns +rendered any sudden movement almost impracticable. In another +moment, there was a tremendous crash; and, with a sound like a +whirlwind, the herd dashed through the crackling jungle. I rushed +forward, as I was uncertain whether they were in advance or +retreat; leaving a small sample of my nose upon a kittar thorn, +and tearing my way, with naked arms, through what, in cold blood, +would have appeared impossible, I caught sight of two elephants +leading across my path, with the herd following in a dense mass +behind them. Firing a shot at the leading elephant, simply in the +endeavour to check the herd, I repeated with the left-hand barrel +at the head of his companion; this staggered him, and threw the +main body into confusion: they immediately closed up in a dense +mass, and bore everything before them, but the herd exhibited +merely an impenetrable array of hind quarters wedged together so +firmly that it was impossible to obtain a head or shoulder shot. +I was within fifteen paces of them, and so compactly were they +packed, that with all their immense strength they could not at +once force so extensive a front through the tough and powerful +branches of the dense kittar. For about half a minute they were +absolutely checked, and they bored forward with all their might +in their determination to open a road through the matted thorns: +the elastic boughs, bent from their position, sprang back with +dangerous force, and would have fractured the skull of any one +who came within their sweep. A very large elephant was on the +left flank, and for an instant this turned obliquely to the left; +I quickly seized the opportunity and fired the "Baby," with an +explosive shell, aimed far back in the flank, trusting that it +would penetrate beneath the opposite shoulder. The recoil of the +"Baby," loaded with ten drachms of the strongest powder and a +half-pound shell, spun me round like a top--it was difficult to +say which was staggered the most severely, the elephant or +myself; however, we both recovered, and I seized one of my double +rifles, a Reilly No. 10, that was quickly pushed into my hand by +my Tokroori, Hadji Ali. This was done just in time, as an +elephant from the baffled herd turned sharp round, and, with its +immense ears cocked, it charged down upon us with a scream of +rage. "One of us she must have if I miss!" + +This was the first downright charge of an African elephant that +I had seen, and instinctively I followed my old Ceylon plan of +waiting for a close shot. She lowered her head when within about +six yards, and I fired low for the centre of the forehead, +exactly in the swelling above the root of the trunk. She +collapsed to the shot, and fell dead, with a heavy shock, upon +the ground. At the same moment, the thorny barrier gave way +before the pressure of the herd, and the elephants disappeared in +the thick jungle, through which it was impossible to follow them. + +I had suffered terribly from the hooked thorns, and the men +likewise. This had been a capital trial for my Tokrooris, who had +behaved remarkably well, and had I gained much confidence by my +successful forehead shot at the elephant when in full charge; but +I must confess that this is the only instance in which I have +succeeded in killing an African elephant by the front shot, +although I have steadily tried the experiment upon subsequent +occasions. + +Florian had not had an opportunity of firing a shot, as I had +been in his way, and he could not pass on one side owing to the +thorns. + +We had very little time to examine the elephant, as we were far +from home, and the sun was already low. I felt convinced that the +other elephant could not be far off, after having received the +"Baby's" half-pound shell carefully directed, and I resolved to +return on the following morning with many people and camels to +divide the flesh. It was dark by the time we arrived at the +tents, and the news immediately spread through the Arab camp that +two elephants had been killed. + +On the following morning we started, and, upon arrival at the +dead elephant, we followed the tracks of that wounded by the +"Baby." The blood upon the bushes guided us in a few minutes to +the spot where the elephant lay dead, at about 300 yards' +distance. The whole day passed in flaying the two animals, and +cutting off the flesh, which was packed in large gum sacks, with +which the camels were loaded. I was curious to examine the effect +of the half-pound shell: it had entered the flank on the right +side, breaking the rib upon which it had exploded; it had then +passed through the stomach and the lower portion of the lungs, +both of which were terribly shattered, and breaking one of the +fore-ribs on the left side, it had lodged beneath the skin of the +shoulder. This was irresistible work, and the elephant had +evidently dropped in a few minutes after having received the +shell. + +The conical bullet of quicksilver and lead, propelled by seven +drachms of powder, had entered the exact centre of the forehead +of the elephant No. 1, and, having passed completely through the +brain and the back part of the skull, we found it sticking fast +in the spine, BETWEEN THE SHOULDERS. These No. 10 Reillys* were +wonderfully powerful rifles, and exceedingly handy; they weighed +fourteen pounds, and were admirably adapted for dangerous game. +I measured both the elephants accurately with a tape: that killed +by the "Baby" was nine feet six inches from the forefoot to the +shoulder, the other was eight feet three inches. It is a common +mistake that twice the circumference of the foot is the height of +an elephant; there is no such rule that can be depended upon, as +their feet vary in size without any relative proportion to the +height of the animal. + + * They are now in England at Mr. Reilly's, No. 215, Oxford + Street, having accompanied me throughout my expedition, + and they have never been out of order. + +A most interesting fact had occurred: when I found the larger +elephant, killed by the "Baby," I noticed an old wound unhealed +and full of matter in the front of the left shoulder; the bowels +were shot through, and were green in various places. Florian +suggested that it must be an elephant that I had wounded at Wat +el Negur; we tracked the course of the bullet most carefully, +until we at length discovered my unmistakeable bullet of +quicksilver and lead, almost uninjured, in the fleshy part of the +thigh, imbedded in an unhealed wound. Thus, by a curious chance, +upon my first interview with African elephants by daylight, I had +killed the identical elephant that I had wounded at Wat el Negur +forty-three days ago in the dhurra plantation, twenty-eight miles +distant! Both these elephants were females. It was the custom of +these active creatures to invade the dhurra fields from this +great distance, and to return to these almost impenetrable thorny +jungles, where they were safe from the attack of the aggageers, +but not from the rifles. + +On our return to camp, the rejoicings were great; the women +yelled as usual, and I delighted the Hamrans by dividing the +meat, and presenting them with the hides for shields. I gave Abou +Do, and all the hunters, and my camel drivers, large quantities +of fat; and I found that I was accredited as a brother hunter by +the knights of the sword, who acknowledged that their weapons +were useless in the thick jungles of Tooleet, the name of the +place where we had killed the elephants. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +OLD NEPTUNE JOINS THE PARTY. + +WE started from Geera, on the 23d of December, with our party +complete. The Hamran sword-hunters were Abou Do, Jali, and +Suleiman. My chief tracker was Taher Noor, who, although a good +hunter, was not a professional aggahr, and I was accompanied by +the father of Abou Do, who was a renowned "howarti," or harpooner +of hippopotami. This magnificent old man might have been Neptune +himself; he stood about six feet two, and his grizzled locks hung +upon his shoulders in thick and massive curls, while his deep +bronze features could not have been excelled in beauty of +outline. A more classical figure I have never beheld than the old +Abou Do with his harpoon, as he first breasted the torrent, and +then landed dripping from the waves to join our party from the +Arab camp on the opposite side of the river. In addition to my +Tokrooris, I had engaged nine camels, each with a separate +driver, of the Hamrans, who were to accompany us throughout the +expedition. These people were glad to engage themselves, with +their camels included, at one and a half dollars (six shillings) +per month, for man and beast as one. We had not sufficient +baggage to load five camels, but four carried a large supply of +corn for our horses and people. + +Hardly were we mounted and fairly started, than the monkey-like +agility of our aggageers was displayed in a variety of antics, +that were far more suited to performance in a circus than to a +party of steady and experienced hunters, who wished to reserve +the strength of their horses for a trying journey. + +Abou Do was mounted on a beautiful Abyssinian horse, a grey; +Suleiman rode a rough and inferior-looking beast; while little +Jali, who was the pet of the party, rode a grey mare, not +exceeding fourteen hands in height, which matched her rider +exactly in fire, spirit, and speed. Never was there a more +perfect picture of a wild Arab horseman than Jali on his mare. +Hardly was he in the saddle, than away flew the mare over the +loose shingles that formed the dry bed of the river, scattering +the rounded pebbles in the air from her flinty hoofs, while her +rider in the vigour of delight threw himself almost under her +belly while at full speed, and picked up stones from the ground, +which he flung, and again caught as they descended. Never were +there more complete Centaurs than these Hamran Arabs; the horse +and man appeared to be one animal, and that of the most elastic +nature, that could twist and turn with the suppleness of a snake; +the fact of their being separate beings was proved by the rider +springing to the earth with his drawn sword while the horse was +in full gallop over rough and difficult ground, and clutching the +mane, he again vaulted into the saddle with the agility of a +monkey, without once checking the speed. The fact of being on +horseback had suddenly altered the character of these Arabs; from +a sedate and proud bearing, they had become the wildest examples +of the most savage disciples of Nimrod; excited by enthusiasm, +they shook their naked blades aloft till the steel trembled in +their grasp, and away they dashed over rocks, through thorny +bush, across ravines, up and down steep inclinations, engaging in +a mimic hunt, and going through the various acts supposed to +occur in the attack of a furious elephant. I must acknowledge +that, in spite of my admiration for their wonderful dexterity, I +began to doubt their prudence. I had three excellent horses for +my wife and myself; the Hamran hunters had only one for each; +and, if the commencement were an example of their usual style of +horsemanship, I felt sure that a dozen horses would not be +sufficient for the work before us. However, it was not the moment +to offer advice, as they were simply mad with excitement and +delight. + +The women raised their loud and shrill yell at parting, and our +party of about twenty-five persons, with nine camels, six horses, +and two donkeys, exclusive of the German Florian, with his +kicking giraffe-hunter, and attendants, ascended the broken slope +that formed the broad valley of the Settite river. + +There was very little game in the neighbourhood, as it was +completely overrun by the Arabs and their flocks; and we were to +march about fifty miles E.S.E. before we should arrive in the +happy hunting-grounds of the Base country, where we were led to +expect great results. Previous to leaving Wat el Negur I had +thoroughly drilled my Tokrooris in their duties as gun-bearers, +which had established a discipline well exemplified in the recent +affair with the elephants. I had entrusted to them my favourite +rifles, and had instructed them in their use; each man paid +particular regard to the rifle that he carried, and, as several +were of the same pattern, they had marked them with small pieces +of rag tied round the trigger guards. This esprit de corps was +most beneficial to the preservation of the arms, which were kept +in admirable order. Mahomet, the dragoman, rode my spare horse, +and carried my short double-barrelled rifle, slung across his +back, in the place of his pistols and gun, which he had wilfully +thrown upon the desert when leaving Berber. As the horse was +restive, and he had placed the hammers upon the caps, his shirt +caught in the lock, and one barrel suddenly exploded, which, with +an elephant-charge of six drachms of powder, was rather +startling, within a few inches of his ear, and narrowly escaped +the back of his skull. Florian possessed a single-barrelled +rifle, which he declared had accompanied him through many years +of sports: this weapon had become so fond of shooting, that it +was constantly going off on its own account, to the great danger +of the bystanders, and no sooner were we well off on our journey, +than off went this abominable instrument in a spontaneous feu de +joie, in the very midst of us! Its master was accordingly OFF +likewise, as his horse gave the accustomed kick, that was +invariably the deed of separation. However, we cantered on ahead +of the dangerous party, and joined the aggageers, until we at +length reached the table land above the Settite valley. Hardly +were we arrived, than we noticed in the distance a flock of sheep +and goats attended by some Arab boys. Suddenly, as Don Quixote +charged the sheep, lance in hand, the aggageers started off in +full gallop, and as the frightened flock scattered in all +directions, in a few moments they were overtaken by the hunters, +each of whom snatched a kid, or a goat, from the ground while at +full speed, and placed it upon the neck of his horse, without +either halting or dismounting. This was a very independent +proceeding; but, as the flock belonged to their own tribe, they +laughed at the question of property that I had immediately +raised, and assured me that this was the Arab custom of insuring +their breakfast, as we should kill no game during that day. In +this they were mistaken, as I killed sufficient guinea-fowl to +render the party independent of other food. + +In a day's march through a beautiful country, sometimes upon the +high table land to cut off a bend in the river, at other times +upon the margin of the stream in the romantic valley, broken into +countless hills and ravines covered with mimosas, we arrived at +Ombrega (mother of the thorn), about twenty-four miles from +Geera. In that country, although uninhabited from fear of the +Base, every locality upon the borders of the river has a name. +Ombrega is a beautiful situation, where white sandstone cliffs of +about two hundred feet perpendicular height, wall in the river, +which, even at this dry season, was a noble stream impassable +except at certain places, where it was fordable. Having descended +the valley we bivouacked in the shade of thick nabbuk trees +(Rhamnus lotus), whose evergreen foliage forms a pleasing +exception to the general barrenness of the mimosas during the +season of drought. We soon arranged a resting-place, and cleared +away the grass that produced the thorn which had given rise to +the name of Ombrega, and in a short time we were comfortably +settled for the night. We were within fifty yards of the +river--the horses were luxuriating in the green grass that grew +upon its banks, and the camels were hobbled, to prevent them from +wandering from the protection of the camp fires, as we were now +in the wilderness, where the Base by day, and the lion and +leopard by night, were hostile to man and beast. The goats, upon +which we depended for our supply of milk, were objects of +especial care: these were picketed to pegs driven in the ground +close to the fires, and men were ordered to sleep on either side. +We had three greyhounds belonging to the Arabs, and it was +arranged that, in addition to these guards, a watch should be +kept by night. + +The dense shade of the nabbuk had been chosen by the Arabs as a +screen to the camp-fires, that might otherwise attract the Base, +who might be prowling about the country; but, as a rule, however +pleasant may be the shade during the day, the thick jungle, and +even the overhanging boughs of a tree, should be avoided at +night. Snakes and noxious insects generally come forth after +dark--many of these inhabit the boughs of trees, and may drop +upon the bed of the unwary sleeper; beasts of prey invariably +inhabit the thick jungles, in which they may creep unperceived to +within springing distance of an object in the camp. + +We were fast asleep a little after midnight, when we were +awakened by the loud barking of the dogs, and by a confusion in +the camp. Jumping up on the instant, I heard the dogs, far away +in the dark jungles, barking in different directions. One of the +goats was gone! A leopard had sprung into the camp, and had torn +a goat from its fastening, although tied to a peg, between two +men, close to a large fire. The dogs had given chase; but, as +usual in such cases, they were so alarmed as to be almost +useless. We quickly collected firebrands, and searched the +jungles, and shortly we arrived where a dog was barking +violently. Near this spot we heard the moaning of some animal +among the bushes, and upon a search with firebrands we discovered +the goat, helpless upon the ground, with its throat lacerated by +the leopard. A sudden cry from the dog at a few yards' distance, +and the barking ceased. + +The goat was carried to the camp, when it shortly died. We +succeeded in recalling two of the dogs; but the third, that was +the best, was missing, having been struck by the leopard. We +searched for the body in vain, and concluded that it had been +carried off. + +On the following day, we discovered fresh tracks of elephants at +sunrise. No time was lost in starting, and upon crossing the +river, we found that a large herd had been drinking, and had +retreated by a peculiar ravine. This cleft through the sandstone +rocks, which rose like walls for about a hundred feet upon either +side, formed an alley about twenty yards broad, the bottom +consisting of snow-white sand that, in the rainy season, formed +the bed of a torrent from the upper country. This herd must have +comprised about fifty elephants, that must have been in the same +locality for several days, as the ground was trampled in all +directions, and the mimosas upon the higher land were uprooted in +great numnbers: but after following upon the tracks for several +hours with great difficulty, owing to the intricacy of their +windings upon the dry and hard ground, we met with a sign fatal +to success,--the footprints of two men. In a short time we met +the men themselves, two elephant-hunters who had followed the +herd on foot, with the sword as their only weapon: they had found +the elephants, which had obtained their wind and had retreated. + +The Sheik Abou Do was furious at the audacity of these two +Hamrans, who had dared to disturb our hunting-grounds, and he +immediately ordered them to return to Geera. + +In addition to the tracks of the herd, we had seen that of a +large single bull elephant; this we now carefully followed, and, +after many windings, we felt convinced that he was still within +the broken ground that formed the Settite valley. After some +hours' most difficult tracking, Taher Noor, who was leading the +way, suddenly sank gently upon all fours. This movement was +immediately, but quietly imitated by the whole party, and I +quickly distinguished a large grey mass about sixty yards distant +among the bushes, which, being quite leafless, screened the form +of the bull elephant, as seen through a veil of treble gauze. I +felt quite sure that we should fail in a close approach with so +large a party. I therefore proposed that I should lead the way +with the Ceylon No. 10, and creep quite close to the elephant, +while one of th aggageers should attempt to sabre the back sinew. +Jali whispered, that the sword was useless in the high and thick +grass in which he was standing, surrounded by thorns; accordingly +I told Florian to follow me, and I crept forward. With +difficulty, upon hands and knees, I avoided the hooked thorns +that would otherwise have fastened upon my clothes, and, with the +wind favourable, I at length succeeded in passing through the +intervening jungle, and arrived at a small plot of grass that was +sufficiently high to reach the shoulder of the elephant. This +open space was about fifteen yards in diameter, and was +surrounded upon all sides by thick jungle. He was a splendid +bull, and stood temptingly for a forehead shot, according to +Ceylon practice, as he was exactly facing me at about ten yards' +distance. Having been fortunate with the front shot at Geera, I +determined to try the effect; I aimed low, and crack went the old +Ceylon No. 10 rifle, with seven drachms of powder, and a ball of +quicksilver and lead. For an instant the smoke in the high grass +obscured the effect, but almost immediately after, I heard a +tremendous rush, and, instead of falling, as I had expected, I +saw the elephant crash headlong through the thorny jungle. No one +was behind me, as Florian had misunderstood the arrangement that +he was to endeavour to obtain a quick shot should I fail. I began +to believe in what I had frequently heard asserted, that the +forehead shot so fatal to the Indian elephant had no effect upon +the African species, except by mere chance. I had taken so steady +an aim at the convexity at the root of the trunk, that every +advantage had been given to the bullet; but the rifle that in +Ceylon had been almost certain at an elephant, had completely +failed. It was quite impossible to follow the animal through the +jungle of hooked thorns. On our way toward the camp we saw tracks +of rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, and a variety of antelopes, +but none of the animals themselves. + +On the following morning we started, several times fording the +river to avoid the bends: our course was due east. After the +first three hours' ride through a beautiful country bordering the +Settite valley, which we several times descended, we came in +clear view of the magnificent range of mountains, that from Geera +could hardly be discerned; this was the great range of Abyssinia, +some points of which exceed 10,000 feet. The country that we now +traversed was so totally uninhabited that it was devoid of all +footprints of human beings; even the sand by the river's side, +that like the snow confessed every print, was free from all +traces of man. The Base were evidently absent from our +neighbourhood. + +We had several times disturbed antelopes during the early portion +of the march, and we had just ascended from the rugged slopes of +the valley, when we observed a troop of about a hundred baboons, +who were gathering gum arabic from the mimosas; upon seeing us, +they immediately waddled off. "Would the lady like to have a +girrit (baboon)?" exclaimed the ever-excited Jali: being answered +in the affirmative, away dashed the three hunters in full gallop +after the astonished apes, who, finding themselves pursued, went +off at their best speed. The ground was rough, being full of +broken hollows, covered scantily with mimosas, and the stupid +baboons, instead of turning to the right into the rugged and +steep valley of the Settite, where they would have been secure +from the aggageers, kept a straight course before the horses. It +was a curious hunt; some of the very young baboons were riding on +their mothers' backs: these were now going at their best pace, +holding on to their maternal steeds, and looking absurdly human; +but, in a few minutes, as we closely followed the Arabs, we were +all in the midst of the herd, and with great dexterity two of the +aggageers, while at full speed, stooped like falcons from their +saddles, and seized each a half-grown ape by the back of the neck +and hoisted them upon the necks of the horses. Instead of biting, +as I had expected, the astonished captives sat astride of the +horses, and clung tenaciously with both arms to the necks of +their steeds, screaming with fear. The hunt was over, and we +halted to secure the prisoners. Dismounting, to my surprise the +Arabs immediately stripped from a mimosa several thongs of bark, +and having tied the baboons by the neck, they gave them a +merciless whipping with their powerful coorbatches of +hippopotamus hide. It was in vain that I remonstrated against +this harsh treatment; they persisted in the punishment, otherwise +they declared that the baboons would bite, but if well whipped +they would become "miskeen" (humble). At length my wife insisted +upon mercy, and the unfortunate captives wore an expression of +countenance like prisoners about to be led to execution, and they +looked imploringly at our faces, in which they evidently +discovered some sympathy with their fate. They were quickly +placed on horseback before their captors, and once more we +continued our journey, highly amused with the little entr'acte. + +We had hardly ridden half a mile, when I perceived a fine bull +tetel (Antelopus Bubalis) standing near a bush a few hundred +yards distant. Motioning to the party to halt, I dismounted, and +with the little Fletcher rifle I endeavoured to obtain a shot. +When within about a hundred and seventy yards, he observed our +party, and I was obliged to take the shot, although I could have +approached unseen to a closer distance, had his attention not +been attracted by the noise of the horses. He threw his head up +preparatory to starting off, and he was just upon the move as I +touched the trigger. He fell like a stone to the shot, but almost +immediately he regained his feet, and bounded off, receiving a +bullet from the second barrel without a flinch; in full speed he +rushed away across the party of aggageers about three hundred +yards distant. Out dashed Abou Do from the ranks on his active +grey horse, and away he flew after the wounded tetel; his long +hair floating in the wind, his naked sword in hand, and his heels +digging into the flanks of his horse, as though armed with spurs +in the last finish of a race. It was a beautiful course; Abou Do +hunted like a cunning greyhound; the tetel turned, and taking +advantage of the double, he cut off the angle; succeeding by the +manoeuvre, he again followed at tremendous speed over the +numerous inequalities of the ground, gaining in the race until he +was within twenty yards of the tetel, when we lost sight of both +game and hunter in the thick bushes. By this time I had regained +my horse, that was brought to meet me, and I followed to the +spot, towards which my wife, and the aggageers encumbered with +the unwilling apes, were already hastening. Upon arrival I found, +in high yellow grass beneath a large tree, the tetel dead, and +Abou Do wiping his bloody sword, surrounded by the foremost of +the party. He had hamstrung the animal so delicately, that the +keen edge of the blade was not injured against the bone. My two +bullets had passed through the tetel; the first was too high, +having entered above the shoulder--this had dropped the animal +for a moment; the second was through the flank. The Arabs now +tied the baboons to trees, and employed themselves in carefully +skinning the tetel so as to form a sack from the hide; they had +about half finished the operation, when we were disturbed by a +peculiar sound at a considerable distance in the jungle, which, +being repeated, we knew to be the cry of buffaloes. In an instant +the tetel was neglected, the aggageers mounted their horses, and +leaving my wife with a few men to take charge of the game, +accompanied by Florian we went in search of the buffaloes. This +part of the country was covered with grass about nine feet high, +that was reduced to such extreme dryness that the stems broke +into several pieces like glass as we brushed through it. The +jungle was open, composed of thorny mimosas at such wide +intervals, that a horse could be ridden at considerable speed if +accustomed to the country. Altogether it was the perfection of +ground for shooting, and the chances were in favour of the rifle. + +We had proceeded carefully about half a mile when I heard a +rustling in the grass, and I shortly perceived a bull buffalo +standing alone beneath a tree, close to the sandy bed of a dried +stream, about a hundred yards distant between us and the animal; +the grass had been entirely destroyed by the trampling of a large +herd. I took aim at the shoulder with one of my No. 10 Reilly +rifles, and the buffalo rushed forward at the shot, and fell +about a hundred paces beyond in the bush. At the report of the +shot, the herd that we had not observed, which had been lying +upon the sandy bed of the stream, rushed past us with a sound +like thunder, in a cloud of dust raised by several hundreds of +large animals in full gallop. I could hardly see them distinctly, +and I waited for a good chance, when presently a mighty bull +separated from the rest, and gave me a fair shoulder shot. I +fired a little too forward, and missed the shoulder; but I made +a still better shot by mistake, as the Reilly bullet broke the +spine through the neck, and dropped him dead. Florian, poor +fellow, had not the necessary tools for the work, and one of his +light guns produced no effect. Now came the time for the +aggageers. Away dashed Jali on his fiery mare, closely followed +by Abou Do and Suleiman, who in a few instants were obscured in +the cloud of dust raised by the retreating buffaloes. As soon as +I could mount my horse that had been led behind me, I followed at +full speed, and spurring hard, I shortly came in sight of the +three aggageers, not only in the dust, but actually among the +rear buffaloes of the herd. Suddenly, Jali almost disappeared +from the saddle as he leaned forward with a jerk, and seized a +fine young buffalo by the tail. In a moment Abou Do and Suleiman +sprang from their horses, and I arrived just in time to assist +them in securing a fine little bull of about twelve hands high, +whose horns were six or seven inches long. A pretty fight we had +with the young Hercules. The Arabs stuck to him like bull-dogs, +in spite of his tremendous struggles, and Florian, with other +men, shortly arriving, we secured him by lashing his legs +together with our belts until impromptu ropes could be made with +mimosa bark. I now returned to the spot where we had left my wife +and the tetel. I found her standing about fifty yards from the +spot with a double rifle cocked, awaiting an expected charge from +one of the buffaloes that, separated from the herd, had happened +to rush in her direction. Mahomet had been in an awful fright, +and was now standing secure behind his mistress. I rode through +the grass with the hope of getting a shot, but the animal had +disappeared. We returned to the dead tetel and to our captive +baboons; but times had changed since we had left them. One had +taken advantage of our absence, and, having bitten through his +tether, he had escaped; the other had used force instead of +cunning, and, in attempting to tear away from confinement, had +strangled himself with the slip-knot of the rope. + +The aggageers now came up with the young buffalo. This was a +great prize, as zoological specimens were much sought after at +Cassala by an agent from Italy, who had given contracts for a +supply. My hunters, to whom I willingly gave my share in the +animal, left one of their party with several of my people to +obtain the assistance of the camel-drivers, who were not far +distant in the rear; these were to bring the flesh of the +animals, and to drive the young bull on the march. + +We now pushed on ahead, and at 5 P.M. we arrived at the spot on +the margin of the Settite river at which we were to encamp for +some time. + +In this position, the valley of the Settite had changed its +character: instead of the rugged and broken slopes on either side +of the river, ascending gradually to the high table lands, the +east bank of the river was low, and extended, in a perfect flat +for about eight miles, to the foot of an abrupt range of hills; +the base had many ages ago formed the margin of the stream, which +had washed this enormous mass of soil towards the Atbara river, +to be carried by the Nile for a deposit in Lower Egypt. During +the rainy season, the river overflowed its banks, and attained a +width in many places of six and seven hundred yards. The soil was +rich, and, having imbibed much moisture from a periodical +overflow, it gave birth to thick jungles of nabbuk (Rhamnus +lotus), together with luxuriant grass, which being beautifully +green while all other leaves and herbage were parched and +withered, afforded pasturage and shade that attracted a number of +wild animals. For many miles on either side the river was fringed +with dense groves of the green nabbuk, but upon the east bank, an +island had been formed of about three hundred acres; this was a +perfect oasis of verdure, covered with large nabbuk trees, about +thirty feet high, and forming a mixture of the densest coverts, +with small open glades of rich but low herbage. To reach this +island, upon which we were to encamp, it was necessary to cross +the arm of the river, that was now dry, with the exception of +deep pools, in one of which we perceived a large bull buffalo +drinking, just as we descended the hill. As this would be close +to the larder, I stalked to within ninety yards, and fired a +Reilly No. 10 into his back, as his head inclined to the water. +For the moment he fell upon his knees, but recovering +immediately, he rushed up the steep bank of the island, receiving +my left-hand barrel between the shoulders, and he disappeared in +the dense covert of green nabbuk on the margin. As we were to +camp within a few yards of the spot, he was close to home; +therefore, having crossed the river, we carefully followed the +blood tracks through the jungle; but, after having pushed our way +for about twenty paces through the dense covert, I came to the +wise conclusion that it was not the place for following a wounded +buffalo, and that we should find him dead on the next morning. A +few yards upon our right hand was a beautiful open glade, +commanding a view of the river, and surrounded by the largest +nabbuk trees, that afforded a delightful shade in the midst of +the thick covert. This was a spot that in former years had been +used by the aggageers as a camp, and we accordingly dismounted, +and turned the horses to graze upon the welcome grass. Each horse +was secured to a peg by a long leathern thong, as the lions in +this neighbourhood were extremely dangerous, having the advantage +of thick and opaque jungle. + +We employed ourselves until the camels should arrive, in cutting +thorn branches, and constructing a zareeba, or fenced camp, to +protect our animals during the night from the attack of wild +beasts. I also hollowed out a thick green bush to form an arbour, +as a retreat during the heat of the day, and in a short space of +time we were prepared for the reception of the camels and +effects. The river had cast up immense stores of dry wood; this +we had collected, and, by the time the camels arrived with the +remainder of our party after dark, huge fires were blazing high +in air, the light of which had guided them direct to our camp. +They were heavily laden with meat, which is the Arab's great +source of happiness, therefore in a few minutes the whole party +was busily employed in cutting the flesh into long thin strips to +dry; these were hung in festoons over the surrounding trees, +while the fires were heaped with tit-bits of all descriptions. I +had chosen a remarkably snug position for ourselves; the two +angareps (stretchers) were neatly arranged in the middle of a +small open space free from overhanging boughs; near these blazed +a large fire, upon which were roasting a row of marrow-bones of +buffalo and tetel, while the table was spread with a clean cloth, +and arranged for dinner. + +The woman Barrake, who had discovered with regret that she was +not a wife but a servant, had got over the disappointment, and +was now making dhurra cakes upon the doka: this is a round +earthenware tray about eighteen inches in diameter, which, +supported upon three stones or lumps of earth, over a fire of +glowing embers, forms a hearth. Slices of liver, well peppered +with cayenne and salt, were grilling on the gridiron, and we were +preparing to dine, when a terrific roar within a hundred and +fifty yards informed us that a lion was also thinking of dinner. +A confusion of tremendous roars proceeding from several lions +followed the first round, and my aggageers quietly remarked, +"There is no danger for the horses to-night, the lions have found +your wounded buffalo!" + +Such a magnificent chorus of bass voices I had never heard; the +jungle cracked, as with repeated roars they dragged the carcase +of the buffalo through the thorns to the spot where they intended +to devour it. That which was music to our ears was discord to +that of Mahomet, who with terror in hs face came to us and +exclaimed: "Master, what's that? What for master and the missus +come to this bad country? That's one bad kind will eat the missus +in the night! Perhaps he come and eat Mahomet!" This +after-thought was too much for him, and Bacheet immediately +comforted him by telling the most horrible tales of death and +destruction that had been wrought by lions, until the nerves of +Mahomet were completely unhinged. + +This was a signal for story-telling, when suddenly the aggageers +changed the conversation by a few tales of the Base natives, +which so thoroughly eclipsed the dangers of wild beasts, that in +a short time the entire party would almost have welcomed a lion, +provided would he only have agreed to protect them from the Base. +In this very spot where we were then camped, a party of Arab +hunters had, two years previous, been surprised at night and +killed by the Base, who still boasted of the swords that they +possessed as spoils from that occasion. The Base knew this spot +as the favourite resting-place of the Hamran hunting-parties, and +they might be not far distant now, as we were in the heart of +their country. This intelligence was a regular damper to the +spirits of some of the party. Mahomet quietly retired and sat +down by Barrake, the ex-slave woman, having expressed a +resolution to keep awake every hour that he should be compelled +to remain in that horrible country. The lions roared louder and +louder, but no one appeared to notice such small thunder; all +thoughts were fixed upon the Base, so thoroughly had the +aggageers succeeded in frightening not only Mahomet, but also our +Tokrooris. + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +THE LIONS FIND THE BUFFALO. + +EARLY on the following morning the lions were still roaring, +apparently within a hundred yards of the camp. I accordingly took +a Reilly No. 10 double rifle and accompanied by my wife, who was +anxious to see these glorious animals, and who carried my little +Fletcher No. 24, I skirted the outside of the jungle on the high +bank, on the narrow arm of the river. We were not long in finding +traces of the lions. A broad track in the sandy bed of the dried +stream showed where the buffalo had been dragged across to the +thick and impervious green bushes, exactly beneath us on the +margin of the river. A hind quarter of the buffalo, much gnawed, +lay within seven or eight paces of us, among the bushes that had +been trampled down, and the dung of numerous lions lay upon the +open ground near the place of their concealment. We had two +Tokrooris with us, carrying spare rifles, and I felt sure that +the lions were within the bushes of dense nabbuk, which concealed +them as perfectly as though behind a closed curtain. We +approached within three or four yards of this effective screen, +when suddenly we heard the cracking of bones, as the lions +feasted in their den close to us; they would not show themselves, +nor was there any possibility of obtaining a shot; therefore, +after ascending the high bank, and waiting for some time in the +hope that one might emerge to drag away the exposed portion of +the buffalo, we returned to camp. + +The aggageers had already returned from a reconnaissance of the +country, as they had started before daybreak in search of +elephants; they reported the fresh tracks of a herd, and they +begged me to lose no time in accompanying them, as the elephants +might retreat to a great distance. There was no need for this +advice; in a few minutes my horse Tetel was saddled, and my six +Tokrooris and Bacheet, with spare rifles, were in attendance. +Bacheet, who had so ingloriously failed in his first essay at Wat +el Negur, had been so laughed at by the girls of the village for +his want of pluck, that he had declared himself ready to face the +devil rather than the ridicule of the fair sex; and, to do him +justice, he subsequently became a first-rate lad in moments of +danger. + +The aggageers were quickly mounted. It was a sight most grateful +to a sportsman to witness the start of these superb hunters, who +with the sabres slung from the saddle-bow, as though upon an +everyday occasion, now left the camp with these simple weapons, +to meet the mightiest animal of the creation in hand-to-hand +conflict. The horses' hoofs clattered as we descended the shingly +beach, and forded the river shoulder-deep, through the rapid +current, while those on foot clung to the manes of the horses, +and to the stirrup-leathers, to steady themselves over the loose +stones beneath. + +Shortly after our arrival upon the opposite side, we came upon +numerous antelopes of the nellut (A. Strepsiceros) and tetel (A. +Bubalis). I would not fire at these tempting animals, as we were +seeking nobler game. + +Tracking was very difficult; as there was a total absence of +rain, it was next to impossible to distinguish the tracks of two +days' date from those most recent upon the hard and parched soil; +the only positive clue was the fresh dung of the elephants, and +this being deposited at long intervals rendered the search +extremely tedious. The greater part of the day passed in useless +toil, and, after fording the river backwards and forwards several +times, we at length arrived at a large area of sand in the bend +of the stream, that was evidently overflowed when the river was +full; this surface of many acres was backed by a forest of large +trees. Upon arrival at this spot, the aggageers, who appeared to +know every inch of the country, declared that, unless the +elephants had gone far away, they must be close at hand, within +the forest. We were speculating upon the direction of the wind, +when we were surprised by the sudden trumpet of an elephant, that +proceeded from the forest already declared to be the covert of +the herd. In a few minutes later, a fine bull elephant marched +majestically from the jungle upon the large area of sand, and +proudly stalked direct towards the river. + +At that time we were stationed under cover of a high bank of sand +that had been left by the retiring river in sweeping round an +angle; we immediately dismounted, and remained well concealed. +The question of attack was quickly settled; the elephant was +quietly stalking towards the water which was about three hundred +paces distant from the jungle: this intervening space was heavy +dry sand, that had been thrown up by the stream in the sudden +bend of the river, which, turning from this point at a right +angle, swept beneath a perpendicular cliff of conglomerate rock +formed of rounded pebbles cemented together. + +I proposed that we should endeavour to stalk the elephant, by +creeping along the edge of the river, under cover of a sand bank +about three feet high, and that, should the rifles fail, the +aggageers should come on at full gallop, and cut off his retreat +from the jungle; we should then have a chance for the swords. + +Accordingly, I led the way, followed by Hadji Ali, my head +Tokroori, with a rifle, while I carried the "Baby." Florian +accompanied us. Having the wind fair, we advanced quickly for +about half the distance, at which time we were within a hundred +and fifty yards of the elephant, who had just arrived at the +water, and had commenced drinking. We now crept cautiously +towards him; the sand bank had decreased to a height of about two +feet, and afforded very little shelter. Not a tree nor bush grew +upon the surface of the barren sand, which was so deep that we +sank nearly to the ankles at every footstep. Still we crept +forward, as the elephant alternately drank, and then spouted the +water in a shower over his colossal form; but just as we had +arrived within about fifty yards, he happened to turn his head in +our direction, and immediately perceived us. He cocked his +enormous ears, gave a short trumpet, and for an instant he +wavered in his determination whether to attack or fly; but as I +rushed towards him with a shout, he turned towards the jungle, +and I immediately fired a steady shot at the shoulder with the +"Baby." As usual, the fearful recoil of the rifle, with a +half-pound shell and twelve drachms of powder, nearly threw me +backwards; but I saw the mark upon the elephant's shoulder, in an +excellent line, although rather high. The only effect of the shot +was to send him off at great speed towards the jungle; but at the +same moment the three aggageers came galloping across the sand +like greyhounds in a course, and, judiciously keeping parallel +with the jung]e, they cut off his retreat, and, turning towards +the elephant, they confronted him, sword in hand. At once the +furious beast charged straight at the enemy; but now came the +very gallant, but foolish, part of the hunt. Instead of leading +the elephant by the flight of one man and horse, according to +their usual method, all the aggageers at the same moment sprang +from their saddles, and upon foot in the heavy sand they attacked +the elephant with their swords. + +In the way of sport, I never saw anything so magnificent, or so +absurdly dangerous. No gladiatorial exhibition in the Roman arena +could have surpassed this fight. The elephant was mad with rage, +and nevertheless he seemed to know that the object of the hunters +was to get behind him. This he avoided with great dexterity, +turning as it were upon a pivot with extreme quickness, and +charging headlong, first at one, and then at another of his +assailants, while he blew clouds of sand in the air with his +trunk, and screamed with fury. Nimble as monkeys, nevertheless +the aggageers could not get behind him. In the folly of +excitement they had forsaken their horses, which had escaped from +the spot. The depth of the loose sand was in favour of the +elephant, and was so much against the men that they avoided his +charges with extreme difficulty. It was only by the determined +pluck of all three that they alternately saved each other, as two +invariably dashed in at the flanks when the elephant charged the +third, upon which the wary animal immediately relinquished the +chase, and turned round upon his pursuers. During this time, I +had been labouring through the heavy sand, and shortly after I +arrived at the fight, the elephant charged directly through the +aggageers, receiving a shoulder shot from one of my Reilly No. 10 +rifles, and at the same time a slash from the sword of Abou Do, +who, with great dexterity and speed, had closed in behind him, +just in time to reach the leg. Unfortunately, he could not +deliver the cut in the right place, as the elephant, with +increased speed, completely distanced the aggageers; he charged +across the deep sand, and reached the jungle. We were shortly +upon his tracks, and after running about a quarter of a mile, he +fell dead in a dry watercourse. His tusks were, like the +generality of Abyssinian elephants, exceedingly short, but of +good thickness. + +Some of our men, who had followed the runaway horses, shortly +returned, and reported that, during our fight with the bull, they +had heard other elephants trumpeting in the dense nabbuk jungle +near the river. A portion of thick forest of about two hundred +acres, upon this side of the river, was a tempting covert for +elephants, and the aggageers, who were perfectly familiar with +the habits of the animals, positively declared that the herd must +be within this jungle. Accordingly, we proposed to skirt the +margin of the river, which, as it made a bend at right angles, +commanded two sides of a square. Upon reaching the jungle by the +river side, we again heard the trumpet of an elephant and about +a quarter of a mile distant we observed a herd of twelve of these +animals shoulder-deep in the river, which they were in the act of +crossing to the opposite side, to secure themselves in an almost +impenetrable jungle of thorny nabbuk. The aggageers advised that +we should return to the ford that we had already crossed, and, by +repassing the river, we should most probably meet the elephants, +as they would not leave the thick jungle until the night. Having +implicit confidence in their knowledge of the country, I followed +their directions, and we shortly recrossed the ford, and arrived +upon a dry portion of the river's bed, banked by a dense thicket +of nabbuk. + +Jali now took the management of affairs. We all dismounted, and +sent the horses to a considerable distance, lest they should by +some noise disturb the elephants. We shortly heard a cracking in +the jungle on our right, and Jali assured us, that, as he had +expected, the elephants were slowly advancing along the jungle on +the bank of the river, and they would pass exactly before us. We +waited patiently in the bed of the river, and the cracking in the +jungle sounded closer as the herd evidently approached. The strip +of thick thorny covert that fringed the margin was in no place +wider than half a mile--beyond that, the country was open and +park-like, but at this season it was covered with parched grass +from eight to ten feet high; the elephants would, therefore, most +probably remain in the jungle until driven out. + +In about a quarter of an hour, we heard by the noise in the +jungle, about a hundred yards from the river, that the elephants +were directly opposite to us. I accordingly instructed Jali to +creep quietly by himself into the bush and to bring me +information of their position: to this he at once agreed. + +In three or four minutes he returned; he declared it impossible +to use the sword, as the jungle was so dense that it would check +the blow, but that I could use the rifle, as the elephants were +close to us--he had seen three standing together, between us and +the main body of the herd. I told Jali to lead me direct to the +spot, and, followed by Fiorian and the aggageers, with my +gun-bearers, I kept within a foot of my dependable little guide, +who crept gently into the jungle; this was intensely thick, and +quite impenetrable, except in such places where elephants and +other heavy animals had trodden numerous alleys. Along one of +these narrow passages we stealthily advanced, until Jali stepped +quietly on one side, and pointed with his finger; I immediately +observed two elephants looming through the thick bushes about +eight paces from me. One offered a temple shot, which I quickly +took with a Reilly No. 10, and floored it on the spot. The smoke +hung so thickly, that I could not see sufficiently distinctly to +fire my second barrel before the remaining elephant had turned; +but Florian, with a three-ounce steel-tipped bullet, by a curious +shot at the hind quarters, injured the hip joint to such an +extent that we could more than equal the elephant in speed. In a +few moments we found ourselves in a small open glade in the +middle of the jungle, close to the stern of the elephant we were +following. I had taken a fresh rifle, with both barrels loaded, +and hardly had I made the exchange, when the elephant turned +suddenly, and charged. Determined to try fairly the forehead +shot, I kept my ground, and fired a Reilly No. 10, quicksilver +and lead bullet, exactly in the centre, when certainly within +four yards. The only effect was to make her stagger backwards, +when, in another moment, with her immense ears thrown forward, +she again rushed on. This was touch-and-go; but I fired my +remaining barrel a little lower than the first shot. Checked in +her rush, she backed towards the dense jungle, throwing her trunk +about and trumpeting with rage. Snatching the Ceylon No. 10 from +one of my trusty Tokrooris (Hassan), I ran straight at her, took +a most deliberate aim at the forehead, and once more fired. The +only effect was a decisive charge; but before I fired my last +barrel, Jali rushed in, and, with one blow of his sharp sword, +severed the back sinew. She was utterly helpless in the same +instant. Bravo, Jali! I had fired three beautifully correct shots +with No. 10 bullets, and seven drachms of powder in each charge; +these were so nearly together that they occupied a space in her +forehead of about three inches, and all had failed to kill! There +could no longer be any doubt that the forehead shot at an African +elephant could not be relied upon, although so fatal to the +Indian species: this increased the danger tenfold, as in Ceylon +I had generally made certain of an elephant by steadily waiting +until it was close upon me. + +I now reloaded my rifles, and the aggageers quitted the jungle to +remount their horses, as they expected the herd had broken cover +on the other side of the jungle; in which case they intended to +give chase, and if possible, to turn them back into the covert, +and drive them towards the guns. We accordingly took our stand in +the small open glade, and I lent Florian one of my double rifles, +as he was only provided with one single-barrelled elephant gun. +I did not wish to destroy the prestige of the rifles, by hinting +to the aggageers that it would be rather awkward for us to +receive the charge of the infuriated herd, as the foreheads were +invulnerable; but inwardly I rather hoped that they would not +come so direct upon our position as the aggageers wished. + +About a quarter of an hour passed in suspense, when we suddenly +heard a chorus of wild cries of excitement on the other side of +the jungle, raised iy the aggageers, who had headed the herd, and +were driving them back towards us. In a few minutes a tremendous +crashing in the jungle, accompanied by the occasional shrill +scream of a savage elephant, and the continued shouts of the +mounted aggageers, assured us that they were bearing down exactly +upon our direction; they were apparently followed even through +the dense jungle by the wild and reckless Arabs. I called my men +close together, and told them to stand fast, and hand me the guns +quickly; and we eagerly awaited the onset that rushed towards us +like a storm. On they came, tearing everything before them. For +a moment the jungle quivered and crashed; a second later, and, +headed by an immense elephant, the herd thundered down upon us. +The great leader came direct at me, and was received with right +and left in the forehead from a Reilly No. 10 as fast as I could +pull the triggers. The shock made it reel backwards for an +instant, and fortunately turned it and the herd likewise. My +second rifle was beautifully handed, and I made a quick right and +left at the temples of two fine elephants, dropping them both +stone-dead. At this moment the "Baby" was pushed into my hand by +Hadji Ali just in time to take the shoulder of the last of the +herd, who had already charged headlong after his comrades, and +was disappearing in the jungle. Bang! went the "Baby;" round I +spun like a weathercock, with the blood pouring from my nose, as +the recoil had driven the sharp top of the hammer deep into the +bridge. My "Baby" not only screamed, but kicked viciously. +However, I knew that the elephant must be bagged, as the +half-pound shell had been aimed directly behind the shoulder. + +In a few minutes the aggageers arrived; they were bleeding from +countless scratches, as, although naked, with the exception of +short drawers, they had forced their way on horseback through the +thorny path cleft by the herd in rushing through the jungle. Abou +Do had blood upon his sword. They had found the elephants +commencing a retreat to the interior of the country, and they had +arrived just in time to turn them. Following them at full speed, +Abou Do had succeeded in overtaking and slashing the sinew of an +elephant just as it was entering the jungle. Thus the aggageers +had secured one, in addition to Fiorian's elephant that had been +slashed by Jali. We now hunted for the "Baby's" elephant, which +was almost immediately discovered lying dead within a hundred and +fifty yards of the place where it had received the shot. The +shell had entered close to the shoulder, and it was extraordinary +that an animal should have been able to travel so great a +distance with a wound through the lungs by a shell that had +exploded within the body. + +We had done pretty well. I had been fortunate in bagging four +from this herd, in addition to the single bull in the morning; +total, five. Florian had killed one, and the aggageers one; +total, seven elephants. One had escaped that I had wounded in the +shoulder, and two that had been wounded by Florian. + +The aggageers were delighted, and they determined to search for +the wounded elephants on the following day, as the evening was +advancing, and we were about five miles from camp. Having my +measuring-tape in a game-bag that was always carried by +Abdoolahi, I measured accurately one of the elephants that had +fallen with the legs stretched out, so that the height to the +shoulder could be exactly taken:--From foot to shoulder in a +direct line, nine feet one inch; circumference of foot, four feet +eight inches. The elephant lying by her side was still larger, +but the legs being doubled up, I could not measure her: these +were females. + +We now left the jungle, and found our horses waiting for us in +the bed of the river by the water side, and we rode towards our +camp well satisfied with the day's work. Upon entering an open +plain of low withered grass we perceived a boar, who upon our +approach showed no signs of fear, but insolently erected his tail +and scrutinised our party. Florian dismounted and fired a shot, +which passed through his flank, and sent the boar flying off at +full speed. Abou Do and I gave chase on horseback, and after a +run of a few hundred yards we overtook the boar, which turned +resolutely to bay. + +In a short time the whole party arrived, and, as Florian had +wounded the animal, his servant Richarn considered that he should +give the coup de grace; but upon his advancing with his drawn +knife, the boar charged desperately, and inflicted a serious +wound across the palm of his hand, which was completely divided +to the bone by a gash with the sharp tusk. Abou Do immediately +rode to the rescue, and with a blow of his sword divided the +spine behind the shoulder, and nearly cut the boar in half. By +this accident Richarn was disabled for some days. + +Upon our arrival at the camp, there were great rejoicings among +our people at the result of the day's sport. Old Moosa, the half +fortune-teller, half priest, of the Tokrooris, had in our absence +employed himself in foretelling the number of elephants we should +kill. His method of conjuring was rather perplexing, and, +although a mystery beyond my understanding, it might be simple to +an English spiritualist or spirit-rapper; he had nevertheless +satisfied both himself and others, therefore the party had been +anxiously waiting our return to hear the result. Of course, old +Moosa was wrong, and of course he had a loop-hole for escape, and +thereby preserved his reputation. The aggageers expected to find +our wounded elephants on the following morning, if dead, by the +flights of vultures. That night the lions again serenaded us with +constant roaring, as they had still some bones to gnaw of the +buffalo's remains. + +At daybreak the next morning, the aggageers in high glee mounted +their horses, and with a long retinue of camels, and men provided +with axes and knives, together with large gum sacks to contain +the flesh, they quitted the camp to cut up the numerous +elephants. As I had no taste for this disgusting work, I took two +of my Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, and, accompanied by old +Abou Do, the father of the sheik, with his harpoon, we started +along the margin of the river in quest of hippopotami. + +The harpoon for hippopotamus and crocodile hunting is a piece of +soft steel about eleven inches long, with a narrow blade or point +of about three-quarters of an inch in width, and a single but +powerful barb. To this short, and apparently insignificant +weapon, a strong rope is secured, about twenty feet in length, at +the extremity of which is a buoy or float as large as a child's +head formed of an extremely light wood called ambatch (Anemone +mirabilis), that is about half the specific gravity of cork. The +extreme end of the short harpoon is fixed in the point of a +bamboo about ten feet long, around which the rope is twisted, +while the buoy end is carried in the left hand. + +The old Abou Do being resolved upon work, had divested himself of +his tope or toga before starting, according to the general custom +of the aggageers, who usually wear a simple piece of leather +wound round the loins when hunting, but, I believe in respect for +our party, they had provided themselves with a garment resembling +bathing drawers, such as are worn in France, Germany, and other +civilized countries; but the old Abou Do, like the English, had +resisted any such innovation, and he accordingly appeared with +nothing on but his harpoon; and a more superb old Neptune I never +beheld. He carried this weapon in his hand, as the trident with +which the old sea-god ruled the monsters of the deep; and as the +tall Arab patriarch of threescore years and ten, with his long +grey locks flowing over his brawny shoulders, stepped as lightly +as a goat from rock to rock along the rough margin of the river, +I followed him in admiration. + +The country was very beautiful; we were within twenty miles of +lofty mountains, while at a distance of about thirty-five or +forty miles were the high peaks of the Abyssinian Alps. The +entire land was richly wooded, although open, and adapted for +hunting upon horseback. Through this wild and lovely country the +river Settite flowed in an ever-changing course. At times the bed +was several hundred yards wide, with the stream, contracted at +this season, flowing gently over rounded pebbles; the water was +as clear as glass; in other places huge masses of rock impeded +the flow of water, and caused dangerous rapids; then, as the +river passed through a range of hills, perpendicular cliffs of +sandstone and of basalt walled it within a narrow channel, +through which it rushed with great impetuosity; issuing from +these straits it calmed its fury in a deep and broad pool, from +which it again commenced a gentle course over sands and pebbles. +At that season the river would have been perfection for salmon, +being a series of rapids, shallows, deep and rocky gorges, and +quiet silent pools of unknown depth; in the latter places of +security the hippopotami retreated after their nocturnal rambles +upon terra firma. The banks of this beautiful river were +generally thickly clothed with bright green nabbuk trees, that +formed a shelter for INNUMERABLE guinea-fowl, and the black +francolin partridge. Herds of antelopes of many varieties were +forced to the river to drink, as the only water within many miles; +but these never remained long among the thick nabbuk, as the lions +and leopards inhabited that covert expressly to spring upon the +unwary animal whose thirst prompted a too heedless advance. +Wherever there was a sand bank in the river, a crocodile basked +in the morning sunshine: some of these were of enormous size. + +Hippopotami had trodden a path along the margin of the river, as +these animals came out to feed shortly after dark, and travelled +from pool to pool. Wherever a plot of tangled and succulent +herbage grew among the shady nabbuks, there were the marks of the +harrow-like teeth, that had torn and rooted up the rank grass +like an agricultural implement. + +After walking about two miles, we noticed a herd of hippopotami +in a pool below a rapid: this was surrounded by rocks, except +upon one side, where the rush of water had thrown up a bank of +pebbles and sand. Our old Neptune did not condescend to bestow +the slightest attention when I pointed out these animals; they +were too wide awake; but he immediately quitted the river's bed, +and we followed him quietly behind the fringe of bushes upon the +border, from which we carefully examined the water. About half a +mile below this spot, as we clambered over the intervening rocks +through a gorge which formed a powerful rapid, I observed, in a +small pool just below the rapid, an immense head of a +hippopotamus close to a perpendicular rock that formed a wall to +the river, about six feet above the surface. I pointed out the +hippo to old Abou Do, who had not seen it. At once the gravity of +the old Arab disappeared, and the energy of the hunter was +exhibited as he motioned us to remain, while he ran nimbly behind +the thick screen of bushes for about a hundred and fifty yards +below the spot where the hippo was unconsciously basking, with +his ugly head above the surface. Plunging into the rapid torrent, +the veteran hunter was carried some distance down the stream, but +breasting the powerful current, he landed upon the rocks on the +opposite side, and retiring to some distance from the river, he +quickly advanced towards the spot beneath which the hippopotamus +was lying. I had a fine view of the scene, as I was lying +concealed exactly opposite the hippo, who had disappeared beneath +the water. Abou Do now stealthily approached the ledge of rock +beneath which he had expected to see the head of the animal; his +long sinewy arm was raised, with the harpoon ready to strike, as +he carefully advanced. At length he reached the edge of the +perpendicular rock; the hippo had vanished, but, far from +exhibiting surprise, the old Arab remained standing on the sharp +ledge, unchanged in attitude. No figure of bronze could have been +more rigid than that of the old river-king, as he stood erect +upon the rock with the left foot advanced, and the harpoon poised +in his ready right hand above his head, while in the left he held +the loose coils of rope attached to the ambatch buoy. For about +three minutes he stood like a statue, gazing intently into the +clear and deep water beneath his feet. I watched eagerly for the +reappearance of the hippo; the surface of the water was still +barren, when suddenly the right arm of the statue descended like +lightning, and the harpoon shot perpendicularly into the pool +with the speed of an arrow. What river-fiend answered to the +summons? In an instant an enormous pair of open jaws appeared, +followed by the ungainly head and form of the furious +hippopotamus, who, springing half out of the water, lashed the +river into foam, and, disdaining the concealment of the deep +pool, he charged straight up the violent rapids. With +extraordinary power he breasted the descending stream; gaining a +footing in the rapids, about five feet deep, he ploughed his way +against the broken waves, sending them in showers of spray upon +all sides, and upon gaining broader shallows he tore along +through the water, with the buoyant float hopping behind him +along the surface, until he landed from the river, started at +full gallop along the dry shingly bed, and at length disappeared +in the thorny nabbuk jungle. + +I never could have imagined that so unwieldy an animal could have +exhibited such speed; no man would have had a chance of escape, +and it was fortunate for our old Neptune that he was secure upon +the high ledge of rock, for if he had been in the path of the +infuriated beast. there would have been an end of Abou Do. The +old man plunged into the deep pool just quitted by the hippo, and +landed upon our side; while in the enthusiasm of the moment I +waved my cap above my head, and gave him a British cheer as he +reached the shore. His usually stern features relaxed into a grim +smile of delight: this was one of those moments when the +gratified pride of the hunter rewards him for any risks. I +congratulated him upon his dexterity: but much remained to be +done. I proposed to cross the river, and to follow upon the +tracks of the hippopotamus, as I imagined that the buoy and rope +would catch in the thick jungle, and that we should find him +entangled in the bush; but the old hunter gently laid his hand +upon my arm, and pointed up the bed of the river, explaining that +the hippo would certainly return to the water after a short +interval. + +In a few minutes later, at a distance of nearly half a mile, we +observed the hippo emerge from the jungle, and descend at full +trot to the bed of the river, making direct for the first rocky +pool in which we had noticed the herd of hippopotami. Accompanied +by the old howarti (hippo hunter), we walked quickly towards the +spot: he explained to me that I must shoot the harpooned hippo, +as we should not be able to secure him in the usual method by +ropes, as nearly all our men were absent from camp, disposing of +the dead elephants. + +Upon reaching the pool, which was about a hundred and thirty +yards in diameter, we were immediately greeted by the hippo, who +snorted and roared as we approached, but quickly dived, and the +buoyant float ran along the surface, directing his course in the +same manner as the cork of a trimmer with a pike upon the hook. +Several times he appeared, but, as he invariably faced us, I +could not obtain a favourable shot; I therefore sent the old +hunter round the pool, and he, swimming the river, advanced to +the opposite side, and attracted the attention of the hippo who +immediately turned towards him. This afforded me a good chance, +and I fired a steady shot behind the ear, at about seventy yards, +with a single-barrelled rifle. As usual with hippopotami, whether +dead or alive, he disappeared beneath the water at the shot. The +crack of the ball and the absence of any splash from the bullet +told me that he was hit; the ambatch float remained perfectly +stationary upon the surface. I watched it for some minutes--it +never moved; several heads of hippopotami appeared and vanished +in different directions, but the float was still; it marked the +spot where the grand old bull lay dead beneath. + +I shot another hippo, that I thought must be likewise dead; and, +taking the time by my watch, I retired to the shade of a tree +with Hassan, while Hadji Ali and the old hunter returned to camp +for assistance in men and knives, &c. + +In a little more than an hour and a half, two objects like the +backs of turtles appeared above the surface: these were the +flanks of the two hippos. A short time afterwards the men +arrived, and, regardless of crocodiles, they swam towards the +bodies. One was towed directly to the shore by the rope attached +to the harpoon, the other was secured by a long line, and dragged +to the bank of clean pebbles. + +I measured the bull that was harpooned; it was fourteen feet two +inches from the upper lip to the extremity of the tail; the head +was three feet one inch from the front of the ear to the edge of +the lip in a straight line. The harpoon was sticking in the nape +of the neck, having penetrated about two and a half inches +beneath the hide; this is about an inch and three-quarters thick +upon the back of the neck of a bull hippopotamus. It was a +magnificent specimen, with the largest tusks I have ever seen; +the skull is now in my hall in England. + +Although the hippopotamus is generally harmless, the solitary old +bulls are sometimes extremely vicious, especially when in the +water. I have frequently known them charge a boat, and I have +myself narrowly escaped being upset in a canoe by the attack of +one of these creatures, without the slightest provocation. The +females are extremely shy and harmless, and they are most +affectionate mothers: the only instances that I have known of the +female attacking a man, have been those in which her calf had +been stolen. To the Arabs they are extremely valuable, yielding, +in addition to a large quantity of excellent flesh, about two +hundred pounds of fat, and a hide that will produce about two +hundred coorbatches, or camel whips. I have never shot these +useful creatures to waste; every morsel of the flesh has been +stored either by the natives or for our own use; and whenever we +have had a good supply of antelope or giraffe meat, I have +avoided firing a shot at the hippo. Elephant flesh is exceedingly +strong and disagreeable, partaking highly of the peculiar smell +of the animal. We had now a good supply of meat from the two +hippopotami, which delighted our people. The old Abou Do claimed +the bull that he had harpooned as his own private property, and +he took the greatest pains in dividing the hide longitudinally, +in strips of the width of three fingers, which he cut with great +dexterity. + +Although the hippopotamus is amphibious, he requires a large and +constant supply of air; the lungs are of enormous size, and he +invariably inflates them before diving. From five to eight +minutes is the time that he usually remains under water; he then +comes to the surface, and expends the air within his lungs by +blowing; he again refills the lungs almost instantaneously, and +if frightened, he sinks immediately. In places where they have +become extremely shy from being hunted, or fired at, they seldom +expose the head above the surface, but merely protrude the nose +to breathe through the nostrils; it is then impossible to shoot +them. Their food consists of aquatic plants, and grasses of many +descriptions. Not only do they visit the margin of the river, but +they wander at night to great distances from the water if +attracted by good pasturage, and, although clumsy and ungainly in +appearance, they clamber up steep banks and precipitous ravines +with astonishing power and ease. In places where they are +perfectly undisturbed, they not only enjoy themselves in the +sunshine by basking half asleep upon the surface of the water, +but they lie upon the shore beneath the shady trees, upon the +river's bank; I have seen them, when disturbed by our sudden +arrival during the march, take a leap from a bank about twenty +feet perpendicular depth into the water below, with a splash that +has created waves in the quiet pool, as though a paddle-steamer +had passed by. The Arabs attach no value to the tusks; these are +far more valuable than elephant ivory, and are used by dentists +in Europe for the manufacture of false teeth, for which they are +admirably adapted, as they do not change colour. Not wishing to +destroy the remaining hippopotami that were still within the +pool, I left my men and old Abou Do busily engaged in arranging +the meat, and I walked quietly homeward. + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A FOREBODING OF EVIL. + +I HAD been for some hours in the camp, but none of the aggageers +had returned, neither had we received any tidings of our people +and camels that had left us at daybreak to search for the dead +elephants. Fearing that some mishap might have occurred in a +collision with the Base, I anxiously looked out for some sign of +the party. At about 4 P.M. I observed far up the bed of the river +several men, some mounted, and others upon foot, while one led a +camel with a curious looking load. Upon a nearer approach I could +distinguish some large object upon the camel's back, that was +steadied by two men, one of whom walked on either side. I had a +foreboding that something was wrong, and in a few minutes I +clearly perceived a man lying upon a make-shift litter, carried +by the camel, while the Sheik Abou Do and Suleiman accompanied +the party upon horseback; a third led Jali's little grey mare. + +They soon arrived beneath the high bank of the river upon which +I stood. Poor little Jali, my plucky and active ally, lay, as I +thought, dead upon the litter. We laid him gently upon my +angarep, which I had raised by four men, so that we could lower +him gradually from the kneeling camel, and we carried him to the +camp, about thirty yards distant. He was faint, and I poured some +essence of peppermint (the only spirit I possessed) down his +throat, which quickly revived him. His thigh was broken about +eight inches above the knee, but fortunately it was a simple +fracture. + +Abou Do now explained the cause of the accident. While the party +of camel-men and others were engaged in cutting up the dead +elephants, the three aggageers had found the track of a bull that +had escaped wounded. In that country, where there was no drop of +water upon the east bank of the Settite for a distance of sixty +or seventy miles to the river Gash, an elephant if wounded was +afraid to trust itself to the interior; one of our escaped +elephants had therefore returned to the thick jungle, and was +tracked by the aggageers to a position within two or three +hundred yards of the dead elephants. As there were no guns, two +of the aggageers, utterly reckless of consequences, resolved to +ride through the narrow passages formed by the large game, and to +take their chance with the elephant, sword in hand. Jali, as +usual, was the first to lead, and upon his little grey mare he +advanced with the greatest difficulty through the entangled +thorns, broken by the passage of heavy game; to the right and +left of the passage it was impossible to move. Abou Do had wisely +dismounted, but Suleiman followed Jali. Upon arriving within a +few yards of the elephant, which was invisible in the thick +thorns, Abou Do crept forward on foot, and discovered it standing +with ears cocked, evidently waiting for the attack. As Jali +followed on his light grey mare, the elephant immediately +perceived the white colour, and at once charged forward. Escape +was next to impossible: Jali turned his mare sharp round, and she +bounded off, but caught in the thorns, the mare fell, throwing +her rider in the path of the elephant that was within a few feet +behind, in full chase. The mare recovered herself in an instant, +and rushed away; the elephant, occupied by the white colour of +the animal, neglected the man, upon whom he trod in the pursuit, +thus breaking his thigh. Abou Do, who had been between the +elephant and Jali, had wisely jumped into the thick thorns, and, +as the elephant passed him, he again sprang out behind, and +followed with his drawn sword, but too late to save Jali, as it +was the affair of an instant. Jumping over Jali's body, he was +just in time to deliver a tremendous cut at the hind leg of the +elephant, that must otherwise have killed both horses and +probably Suleiman also, as the three were caught in a cul de sac +in a passage that had no outlet, and were at the elephant's +mercy. + +Abou Do seldom failed; it was a difficult feat to strike +correctly in the narrow jungle passage with the elephant in full +speed, but the blow was fairly given, and the back sinew was +divided. Not content with the success of the cut, he immediately +repeated the stroke upon the other leg, as he feared that the +elephant, although disabled from rapid motion, might turn and +trample Jali. The extraordinary dexterity and courage required to +effect this can hardly be appreciated by those who have never +hunted a wild elephant; but the extreme agility, pluck, and +audacity of these Hamran sword-hunters surpass all feats that I +have ever witnessed. + +I set Jali's broken thigh, and employed myself in making splints; +fortunately, my tool-chest was at hand, and I selected some +pieces of dry wood that had been left on the bank by the retiring +river. I made two splints, one with a crutch to fit beneath the +arm; this I carried to about three inches beyond the foot, and +cut a V-shaped notch to secure the bandage; the other was a +common short splint about eighteen inches long. My wife quickly +made about sixty yards of bandages, while Barrak, the maid, +prepared thick gum water, from gum arabic, that the mimosas +produced in unlimited quantity. Fixing the long splint under the +arm, and keeping it upon the outside of the thigh, with the leg +perfectly straight, I lashed the foot and ankle securely to the +V-shaped notch: I then strapped the upper portion of the splint +with bandages passed around the patient's chest, until he was +swathed from beneath the arms to the hips, thus securing the +splint to his body. The thigh, and entire leg from the fork to +the ankle, I carefully secured to the long splint with three rows +of bandages, the first plain, and the last two layers were soaked +in thick gum-water. When these became dry and hard, they formed +a case like an armour of paste-board: previous to bandaging the +limb in splints, I had bathed it for some hours with cold +applications. + +On the following morning I expected to find my patient in great +pain; but, on the contrary, he complained very little. His pulse +was good, and there was very little swelling or heat. I gave him +some cooling medicine; and the only anxiety that he expressed was +the wish to get well immediately, so as to continue the +expedition. + +The Arabs thought that I could mend the leg of a man as though it +were the broken stock of a gun, that would be serviceable +immediately when repaired. As these people never use spirituous +liquors, they are very little subject to inflammation, and they +recover quickly from wounds that would be serious to Europeans. +I attended to Jali for four days. He was a very grateful, but +unruly patient, as he had never been accustomed to remain quiet. +At the end of that time we arranged an angarep comfortably upon +a camel, upon which he was transported to Geera, in company with +a long string of camels, heavily laden with dried meat and +squares of hide for shields, with large bundles of hippopotamus +skin for whip making, together with the various spoils of the +chase. Last, but not least, were numerous leathern pots of fat +that had been boiled down from elephants and hippopotami. + +The camels were to return as soon as possible with supplies of +corn for onr people and horses. Another elephant-hunter was to be +sent to us in the place of Jali; but I felt that we had lost our +best man.* + + * I heard from Jali six weeks later; he was then well, + + and offered to rejoin us shortly, but I declined to + + risk the strength of his leg. + +Although my people had been in the highest spirits up to this +time, a gloom had been thrown over the party by two +causes--Jali's accident, and the fresh footmarks of the Base that +had been discovered upon the sand by the margin of the river. The +aggageers feared nothing, and if the Base had been legions of +demons they would have faced them, sword in hand, with the +greatest pleasure. But my Tokrooris, who were brave in some +respects, had been so cowed by the horrible stories recounted of +these common enemies at the nightly camp-fires by the Hamran +Arabs, that they were seized with a panic, and resolved to desert +en masse, and return to Katariff, where I had originally engaged +them, and at which place they had left their families. + +This desertion having been planned, they came to me in a body, +just as the camels and Jali were about to depart, and commenced +a series of absurd excuses for their intended desertion. The old +grey-headed Moosa, by whose fortune-telling and sorcery the party +were invariably guided, had foretold evil. This had confirmed +them in their determination to return home. They were not a bad +set of fellows, but, like most of their class, they required +peculiar management. If natives are driven, they invariably hate +their master, and turn sulky; if you give in to them, they lose +respect, and will never obey. They are exceedingly subject to +sudden impulses, under the influence of which they are utterly +unreasonable. As the expedition depends for success entirely upon +the union of the party, it is highly necessary to obtain so +complete a control over every individual, that the leader shall +be regarded with positive reverence, and his authority in all +matters accepted as supreme. To gain such a complete ascendancy +is a work of time, and is no easy matter, as an extreme amount of +tact and judgment is necessary, combined with great kindness and +common sense, with, at times, great severity. The latter should +be avoided as long as possible. + +In this instance, the desertion of my Tokrooris would have been +a great blow to my expedition, as it was necessary to have a +division of parties. I had now Tokrooris, Jaleens, and Hamran +Arabs. Thus they would never unite together, and I was certain to +have some upon my side in a difficulty. Should I lose the +Tokrooris, the Hamran Arabs would have the entire preponderance. + +The whole of my Tokrooris formed in line before me and my wife, +just as the camels were about to leave; each man had his little +bundle prepared for starting on a journey. Old Moosa was the +spokesman,--he said that they were all very sorry: that they +regretted exceedingly the necessity of leaving us, but some of +them were sick, and they would only be a burden to the +expedition; that one of them was bound upon a pilgrimage to +Mecca, and that God would punish him should he neglect this great +duty; others had not left any money with their families in +Katariff, that would starve in their absence. (I had given them +an advance of wages, when they engaged at Katariff, to provide +against this difficulty.) I replied, "My good fellows, I am very +sorry to hear all this, especially as it comes upon me so +suddenly; those who are sick, stand upon one side" (several +invalids, who looked remarkably healthy, stepped to the left). +"Who wishes to go to Mecca?" Abderachman stepped forward (a huge +specimen of a Tokroori, who went by the nickname of "El Jamoos," +or the buffalo.) "Who wishes to remit money to his family, as I +will send it and deduct it from his wages?" No one came forward. +During the pause, I called for pen and paper, which Mahomet +brought. I immediately commenced writing, and placed the note +within an envelope, which I addressed, and gave to one of the +camel-drivers. I then called for my medicine chest, and having +weighed several three-grain doses of tartar emetic, I called the +invalids, and insisted upon their taking the medicine before they +started, or they might become seriously ill upon the road, which +for three days' march was uninhabited. Mixed with a little water, +the doses were swallowed, and I knew that the invalids were safe +for that day, and that the others would not start without them. + +I now again addressed my would-be deserters: "Now, my good +fellows, there shall be no misunderstanding between us, and I +will explain to you how the case stands. You engaged yourselves +to me for the whole journey, and you received an advance of wages +to provide for your families during your absence. You have lately +filled yourselves with meat, and you have become lazy; you have +been frightened by the footprints of the Base; thus you wish to +leave the country. To save yourselves from imaginary danger, you +would forsake my wife and myself and leave us to a fate which you +yourselves would avoid. This is your gratitude for kindness; this +is the return for my confidence, when without hesitation I +advanced you money. Go! Return to Katariff to your families! I +know that all the excuses you have made are false. Those who +declare themselves to be sick, Inshallah (please God) shall be +sick. You will all be welcomed upon your arrival at Katariff. In +the letter I have written to the Governor, inclosing your names, +I have requested him to give each man upon his appearance FIVE +HUNDRED LASHES WITH THE COORBATCH, FOR DESERTION; and to imprison +him until my return." + +Check-mate! My poor Tokrooris were in a corner, and in their +great dilemma they could not answer a word. Taking advantage of +this moment of confusion, I called forward "the buffalo" +Abderachman, as I had heard that he really had contemplated a +pilgrimage to Mecca. "Abderachman," I continued, "you are the +only man who has spoken the truth. Go to Mecca! and may God +protect you on the journey; I should not wish to prevent you from +performing your duty as a Mahometan." + +Never were people more dumbfounded with surprise; they retreated, +and formed a knot in consultation, and in about ten minutes they +returned to me, old Moosa and Hadji Ali both leading the pilgrim +Abderachman by the hands. They had given in; and Abderachman, the +buffalo of the party, thanked me for my permission, and with +tears in his eyes, as the camels were about to start, he at once +said good-bye. "Embrace him!" cried old Moosa and Hadji Ali; and +in an instant, as I had formerly succumbed to the maid Barrake, +I was actually kissed by the thick lips of Abderachman the +unwashed! Poor fellow! this was sincere gratitude without the +slightest humbug; therefore, although he was an odoriferous +savage, I could not help shaking him by the hand and wishing him +a prosperous journey, assuring him that I would watch over his +comrades like a father, while in my service. In a few instants +these curious people were led by a sudden and new impulse; my +farewell had perfectly delighted old Moosa and Hadji Ali, whose +hearts were won. "Say good-bye to the Sit!" (the lady) they +shouted to Abderachman; but I assured them that it was not +necessary to go through the whole operation to which I had been +subjected, and that she would be contented if he only kissed her +hand. This he did with the natural grace of a savage, and was led +away crying by his companions, who embraced him with tears, and +they parted with the affection of brothers. + +Now to hard-hearted and civilized people, who often school +themselves to feel nothing, or as little as they can, for +anybody, it may appear absurd to say that the scene was +affecting, but somehow or other it was; and in the course of +half-an-hour, those who would have deserted had become staunch +friends, and we were all, black and white, Mahometans and +Christians, wishing the pilgrim God speed upon his perilous +journey to Mecca. + +The camels started, and, if the scene was affecting, the invalids +began to be more affected by the tartar emetic; this was the +third act of the comedy. The plot had been thoroughly ventilated: +the last act exhibited the perfect fidelity of my Tokrooris, in +whom I subsequently reposed much confidence. + +In the afternoon of that day, the brothers Sheriff arrived; these +were the most renowned of all the sword-hunters of the Hamrans, +of whom I have already spoken; they were well mounted, and, +having met our caravan of camels on the route, heavily laden with +dried flesh, and thus seen proofs of our success, they now +offered to join our party. I am sorry to be obliged to confess, +that my ally, Abou Do, although a perfect Nimrod in sport, an +Apollo in personal appearance, and a gentleman in manner, was a +mean, covetous, and grasping fellow, and withal absurdly jealous. +Taher Sheriff was a more celebrated hunter, having had the +experience of at least twenty years in excess of Abou Do, and +although the latter was as brave and dexterous as Taher and his +brothers, he wanted the cool judgment that is essential to a +first-rate sportsman. He was himself aware of his inferiority to +Taher Sheriff, though too proud to admit it; but, to avoid +competition he declined to allow the Sheriffs to join our party, +declaring that if I insisted upon the fresh alliance, he and his +comrade Suleiman would return home. Notwithstanding his +objections, I arranged for the present that, as Jali was hors de +combat, Taher Sheriff's party should join us until the arrival of +a fresh hunter in his place, otherwise our party would be +incomplete. To prevent complications, the greedy Abou Do selected +his share of the ivory, carefully choosing the best and most +perfect tusks, and he presented Taher's party with a small +quantity of meat that would render them independent of his +hospitality. I at once ordered my people to give them a large +supply of both meat and corn from my own store, and they encamped +in a quarter of our circle. + +The following day was the new year, January 1st, 1862; and, with +the four brothers Sheriff and our party, we formed a powerful +body of hunters: six aggageers and myself, all well mounted. With +four gun-bearers, and two camels, both of which carried water, we +started in search of elephants. Florian was unwell, and remained +in camp. + +In this dry climate it was only necessary to ride along the +margin of the river to look for fresh tracks, as the animals were +compelled to visit the Settite to drink, and of course there was +no difficulty in discovering their traces. It appeared, however, +that the elephants had been frightened away from the +neighbourhood by the recent attack, as we rode for about ten +miles without seeing any fresh marks. We therefore struck inland, +on the east bank of the river, intending to return home by a +circuit. The country was exactly like an English park, with no +larger timber than thorn trees. Every now and then there was an +exception in a gigantic homera (Adansonia digitata), or baobab; +these, towering over the heads of the low mimosas, could be seen +from a great distance. Having steered direct for one, we halted, +and dismounted to rest the horses beneath the shade. This tree +was about forty feet in circumference, and the spongy trunk was +formed into a ladder by pegs of hard wood driven into its side by +the Base hunters, who had thus ascended the slippery stem in +search of honey. Bees are very fond of these trees, as they are +generally more or less hollow, and well adapted for hives. The +Adansonia digitata, although a tree, always reminds me of a +gigantic fungus; the stem is disproportioned in its immense +thickness to its height, and its branches are few in number, and +as massive in character as the stem. The wood is not much firmer +in substance than cork, and is as succulent as a carrot. In +Kordofan, where water is exceedingly scarce, the Adansonia is +frequently used as a reservoir; one of these huge hollow trees is +cleaned out and filled with water during the short rainy season. +The fruit was ripe at the time we halted, and after many +attempts, by throwing sticks, we succeeded in procuring a +considerable number. The sub-acid flavour of the seeds, enveloped +in a dry yellow powder within the large shell, was exceedingly +refreshing. + +The immediate neighbourhood was a perfect exhibition of +gum-arabic-bearing mimosas. At this season the gum was in +perfection, and the finest quality was now before us in beautiful +amber-coloured masses upon the stems and branches, varying from +the size of a nutmeg to that of an orange. So great was the +quantity, and so excellent were the specimens, that, leaving our +horses tied to trees, both the Arabs and myself gathered a large +collection. This gum, although as hard as ice on the exterior, +was limpid in the centre, resembling melted amber, and as clear +as though refined by some artificial process. The trees were +perfectly denuded of leaves from the extreme drought, and the +beautiful balls of frosted yellow gum recalled the idea of the +precious jewels upon the trees in the garden of the wonderful +lamp of the "Arabian nights." This gum was exceedingly sweet and +pleasant to the taste; but, although of the most valuable +quality, there was no hand to gather it in this forsaken, +although beautiful country; it either dissolved during the rainy +season, or was consumed by the baboons and antelopes. The +aggageers took off from their saddles the skins of tanned +antelope leather that formed the only covering to the wooden +seats, and with these they made bundles of gum. When we +remounted, every man was well laden. + +We were thus leisurely returning home through alternate plains +and low open forest of mimosa, when Taher Sheriff, who was +leading the party, suddenly reined up his horse, and pointed to +a thick bush, beneath which was a large grey, but shapeless, +mass. He whispered, as I drew near, "Oom gurrin" (mother of the +horn), their name for the rhinoceros. I immediately dismounted, +and, with the short No. 10 Tatham rifle I advanced as near as I +could, followed by Suleiman, as I had sent all my gun-bearers +direct home by the river when we had commenced our circuit. As I +drew near, I discovered two rhinoceros asleep beneath a thick +mass of bushes; they were lying like pigs, close together, so +that at a distance I had been unable to distinguish any exact +form. It was an awkward place; if I were to take the wind fairly, +I should have to fire through the thick bush, which would be +useless; therefore I was compelled to advance with the wind +direct from me to them. The aggageers remained about a hundred +yards distant, while I told Suleiman to return, and hold my horse +in readiness with his own. I then walked quietly to within about +thirty yards of the rhinoceros, but so curiously were they lying +that it was useless to attempt a shot. In their happy dreams they +must have been suddenly disturbed by the scent of an enemy, for, +without the least warning, they suddenly sprang to their feet +with astonishing quickness, and with a loud and sharp whiff, +whiff, whiff! one of them charged straight at me. I fired my +right-hand barrel in his throat, as it was useless to aim at the +head protected by two horns at the nose. This turned him, but had +no other effect, and the two animals thundered off together at a +tremendous pace. + +Now for a "tally ho!" Our stock of gum was scattered on the +ground, and away went the aggageers in full speed after the two +rhinoceros. Without waiting to reload, I quickly remounted my +horse Tetel, and, with Suleiman in company, I spurred hard to +overtake the flying Arabs. Tetel was a good strong cob, but not +very fast; however, I believe he never went so well as upon that +day, for, although an Abyssinian horse, I had a pair of English +spurs, which worked like missionaries, but with a more decided +result. The ground was awkward for riding at full speed, as it +was an open forest of mimosas, which, although wide apart, were +very difficult to avoid, owing to the low crowns of spreading +branches; these, being armed with fish-hook thorns, would have +been serious on a collision. I kept the party in view, until in +about a mile we arrived upon open ground. Here I again applied +the spur, and by degrees I crept up, always gaining, until I at +length joined the aggageers. + +Here was a sight to drive a hunter wild! The two rhinoceros were +running neck and neck, like a pair of horses in harness, but +bounding along at tremendous speed within ten yards of the +leading Hamran. This was Taher Sheriff, who, with his sword +drawn, and his long hair flying wildly behind him, urged his +horse forward in the race, amidst a cloud of dust raised by the +two huge but active beasts, that tried every sinew of the horses. +Roder Sheriff, with the withered arm, was second; with the reins +hung upon the hawk-like claw that was all that remained of a +hand, but with his naked sword grasped in his right, he kept +close to his brother, ready to second his blow. Abou Do was +third; his hair flying in the wind--his heels dashing against the +flanks of his horse, to which he shouted in his excitement to +urge him to the front, while he leant forward with his long +sword, in the wild energy of the moment, as though hoping to +reach the game against all possibility. Now for the spurs! and as +these, vigorously applied, screwed an extra stride out of Tetel, +I soon found myself in the ruck of men, horses, and drawn swords. +There were seven of us,--and passing Abou Do, whose face wore an +expression of agony at finding that his horse was failing, I +quickly obtained a place between the two brothers, Taher and +Roder Sheriff. There had been a jealousy between the two parties +of aggageers, and each was striving to outdo the other; thus Abou +Do was driven almost to madness at the superiority of Taher's +horse, while the latter, who was the renowned hunter of the +tribe, was determined that his sword should be the first to taste +blood. I tried to pass the rhinoceros on my left, so as to fire +close into the shoulder my remaining barrel with my right hand, +but it was impossible to overtake the animals, who bounded along +with undiminished speed. With the greatest exertion of men and +horses we could only retain our position within about three or +four yards of their tails--just out of reach of the swords. The +only chance in the race was to hold the pace until the rhinoceros +should begin to flag. The horses were pressed to the utmost; but +we had already run about two miles, and the game showed no signs +of giving in. On they flew,--sometimes over open ground, then +through low bush, which tried the horses severely; then through +strips of open forest, until at length the party began to tail +off, and only a select few kept their places. We arrived at the +summit of a ridge, from which the ground sloped in a gentle +inclination for about a mile towards the river; at the foot of +this incline was thick thorny nabbuk jungle, for which +impenetrable covert the rhinoceros pressed at their utmost speed. +Never was there better ground for the finish of a race; the earth +was sandy, but firm, and as we saw the winning-post in the jungle +that must terminate the hunt, we redoubled our exertions to close +with the unflagging game. Suleiman's horse gave in--we had been +for about twenty minutes at a killing pace. Tetel, although not +a fast horse, was good for a distance, and he now proved his +power of endurance, as I was riding at least two stone heavier +than any of the party. Only four of the seven remained; and we +swept down the incline, Taher Sheriff still leading, and Abou Do +the last! His horse was done, but not the rider; for, springing +to the ground while at full speed, sword in hand, he forsook his +tired horse, and, preferring his own legs, he ran like an +antelope, and, for the first hundred yards, I thought he would +really pass us, and win the honour of first blow. It was of no +use, the pace was too severe, and, although running wonderfully, +he was obliged to give way to the horses. Only three now followed +the rhinoceros--Taher Sheriff, his brother Roder, and myself. I +had been obliged to give the second place to Roder, as he was a +mere monkey in weight; but I was a close third. The excitement +was intense--we neared the jungle, and the rhinoceros began to +show signs of flagging, as the dust puffed up before their +nostrils, and, with noses close to the ground, they snorted as +they still galloped on. Oh for a fresh horse! "A horse ! a horse! +my kingdom for a horse!" We were within two hundred yards of the +jungle; but the horses were all done. Tetel reeled as I urged him +forward, Roder pushed ahead; we were close to the dense thorns, +and the rhinoceros broke into a trot; they were done! "Now, +Taher, for-r-a-a-r-r-d! for-r-r-a-a-r-d, Taher!!!" Away he +went--he was close to the very heels of the beasts; but his horse +could do no more than his present pace; still he gained upon the +nearest; he leaned forward with his sword raised for the +blow--another moment, and the jungle would be reached! One effort +more, and the sword flashed in the sunshine, as the rearmost +rhinoceros disappeared in the thick screen of thorns, with a gash +about a foot long upon his hind-quarters. Taher Sheriff shook his +bloody sword in triumph above his head; but the rhinoceros was +gone. We were fairly beaten, regularly outpaced; but I believe +another two hundred yards would have given us the victory. +"Bravo, Taher," I shouted. He had ridden splendidly, and his b]ow +had been marvellously delivered at an extremely long reach, as he +was nearly out of his saddle when he sprang forward to enable the +blade to obtain a cut at the last moment. He could not reach the +hamstring, as his horse could not gain the proper position. + +We all immediately dismounted; the horses were thoroughly done, +and I at once loosened the girths and contemplated my steed +Tetel, who with head lowered, and legs wide apart, was a +tolerable example of the effects of pace. The other aggageers +shortly arrived, and as the rival Abou Do joined us, Taher +Sheriff quietly wiped the blood off his sword without making a +remark; this was a bitter moment for the discomfited Abou Do. + +Although we had failed, I never enjoyed a hunt so much either +before or since; it was a magnificent run, and still more +magnificent was the idea that a man, with no weapon but a sword, +could attack and generally vanquish every huge animal of +creation. I felt inclined to discard all my rifles, and to adopt +the sabre, with a first-class horse instead of the common horses +of this country, that were totally unfit for such a style of +hunting, when carrying nearly fifteen stone. + +Taher Sheriff explained that at all times the rhinoceros was the +most difficult animal to sabre, on account of his extraordinary +swiftness, and, although he had killed many with the sword, it +was always after a long and fatiguing hunt: at the close of +which, the animal becoming tired, generally turned to bay, in +which case one hunter occupied his attention, while another +galloped up behind, and severed the hamstring. The rhinoceros, +unlike the elephant, can go very well upon three legs, which +enhances the danger, as one cut will not utterly disable him. + +There is only one species of this animal in Abyssinia; this is +the two-horned black rhinoceros, known in South Africa as the +keitloa. This animal is generally five feet six inches to five +feet eight inches high at the shoulder, and, although so bulky +and heavily built, it is extremely active, as our long and +fruitless hunt had exemplified. The skin is about half the +thickness of that of the hippopotamus, but of extreme toughness +and closeness of texture; when dried and polished it resembles +horn. Unlike the Indian species of rhinoceros, the black variety +of Africa is free from folds, and the hide fits smoothly on the +body like that of the buffalo. This two-horned black species is +exceedingly vicious; it is one of the very few animals that will +generally assume the offensive; it considers all creatures to be +enemies, and, although it is not acute in either sight or +hearing, it possesses so wonderful a power of scent, that it will +detect a stranger at a distance of five or six hundred yards +should the wind be favourable. + +I have observed that a rhinoceros will generally charge down upon +the object that it smells, but does not see; thus when the animal +is concealed either in high grass or thick jungle, should it +scent a man who may be passing unseen to windward, it will rush +down furiously upon the object it has winded, with three loud +whiffs, resembling a jet of steam from a safety-valve. As it is +most difficult and next to impossible to kill a rhinoceros when +charging, on account of the protection to the brain afforded by +the horns, an unexpected charge in thick jungle is particularly +unpleasant; especially when on horseback, as there is no means of +escape but to rush headlong through all obstacles, when the rider +will most likely share the fate that befell the unfortunate Jali. + +The horns of the black Abyssinian species seldom exceed two feet +in length, and are generally much shorter; they are not fitted +upon the bone like the horns of all other animals, but are merely +rooted upon the thick skin, of which they appear to be a +continuation. Although the horn of a rhinoceros is a weapon of +immense power, it has no solid foundation, but when the animal is +killed, it can be separated from its hold upon the second day +after death, by a slight blow with a cane. The base forms an +exceedingly shallow cup, and much resembles the heart of an +artichoke when the leaves have been picked off. The teeth are +very peculiar, as the molars have a projecting cutting edge on +the exterior side; thus the jaws when closed form a pair of +shears, as the projecting edges of the upper and lower rows +overlap: this makes a favourable arrangement of nature to enable +the animal to clip off twigs and the branches upon which it +feeds, as, although it does not absolutely refuse grass, the +rhinoceros is decidedly a wood eater. There are particular bushes +which form a great attraction, among these is a dwarf mimosa with +a reddish bark: this tree grows in thick masses, which the +rhinoceros clips so closely that it frequently resembles a +quickset hedge that has been cut by the woodman's shears. These +animals are generally seen in pairs, or the male, female, and +calf; the mother is very affectionate, and exceedingly watchful +and savage. Although so large an animal, the cry is very +insignificant, and is not unlike the harsh shrill sound of a +penny trumpet. The drinking hour is about 8 P.M. or two hours +after sunset, at which time the rhinoceros arrives at the river +from his daily retreat, which is usually about four miles in the +interior. He approaches the water by regular paths made by +himself, but not always by the same route; and, after drinking, +he generally retires to a particular spot beneath a tree that has +been visited upon regular occasions; in such places large heaps +of dung accumulate. The hunters take advantage of this +peculiarity of the rhinoceros, and they set traps in the path to +his private retreat; but he is so extremely wary, and so acute is +the animal's power of scent, that the greatest art is necessary +in setting the snare. A circular hole about two feet deep and +fifteen inches in diameter is dug in the middle of his run, near +to the tree that has been daily visited; upon this hole is placed +a hoop of tough wood arranged with a vast number of sharp spikes +of a strong elastic wood, which, fastened to the rim, meet in the +centre, and overlap each other as would the spokes of a wheel in +the absence of the nave, if lengthened sufficiently. We will +simplify the hoop by calling it a wheel without a centre, the +spokes sharpened and overlapping the middle. The instrument being +fitted neatly above the hole, a running noose of the strongest +rope is laid in the circle upon the wheel; the other extremity of +the rope is fastened to the trunk of a tree that has been felled +for that purpose, and deeply notched at one end to prevent the +rope from slipping. This log, which weighs about five or six +hundredweight, is then buried horizontally in the ground, and the +entire trap is covered with earth and carefully concealed; the +surface is smoothed over with a branch instead of the hand, as +the scent of a human touch would at once be detected by the +rhinoceros. When completed, a quantity of the animal's dung is +swept from the heap upon the snare. If the trap is undiscovered, +the rhinoceros steps upon the hoop, through which his leg sinks +into the hole, and upon his attempt to extricate his foot, the +noose draws tight over the legs; as the spiked hoop fixing +tightly into the skin prevents the noose from slipping over the +foot. Once caught, his first effort to escape drags the heavy log +from the trench, and as the animal rushes furiously away, this +acts as a drag, and by catching in the jungle and the protruding +roots of trees, it quickly fatigues him. On the following morning +the hunters discover the rhinoceros by the track of the log that +has ploughed along the ground, and the animal is killed by +lances, or by the sword. The hide of a rhinoceros will produce +seven shields; these are worth about two dollars each, as simple +hide before manufacture; the horn is sold in Abyssinia for about +two dollars per pound, for the manufacture of sword-hilts, which +are much esteemed if of this material. + +Upon our return to camp, I found that the woman Barrake was ill. +She had insisted upon eating a large quantity of the fruit of the +hegleek tree (Balanites Aegyptiaca), which abounded in this +neighbourhood. This tree is larger than the generality in that +country, being about thirty feet in height and eighteen inches in +diameter; the ashes of the burnt wood are extremely rich in +potash, and the fruit, which is about the size and shape of a +date, is sometimes pounded and used by the Arabs in lieu of soap +for washing their clothes. This fruit is exceedingly pleasant, +but in a raw state it has an irritating effect upon the bowels, +and should be used in small quantities. Barrake had been +cautioned by the Arabs and ourselves, but she had taken a fancy +that she was determined to gratify; therefore she had eaten the +forbidden fruit from morning until night, and a grievous attack +of diarrhoea was the consequence. My wife had boiled the fruit +with wild honey, and had made a most delicious preserve; in this +state it was not unwholesome. She had likewise preserved the +fruit of the nabbuk in a similar manner: the latter resembles +minute apples in appearance, with something of the medlar in +flavour; enormous quantities were produced upon the banks of the +river, which, falling when ripe, were greedily eaten by +guinea-fowl, wild hogs, antelopes, and monkeys. Elephants are +particularly fond of the fruit of the hegleek, which, although +apparently too insignificant for the attention of such mighty +animals, they nevertheless enjoy beyond any other food, and they +industriously gather them one by one. At the season when the +fruit is ripe, the hegleek tree is a certain attraction to +elephants, who shake the branches and pick up the fallen berries +with their trunks; frequently they overturn the tree itself, as +a more direct manner of feeding. + +Florian was quite incapable of hunting, as he was in a weak state +of health, and had for some months been suffering from chronic +dysentery. I had several times cured him, but, as Barrake +insisted upon eating fruit, so he had a weakness for the +strongest black coffee, which, instead of drinking, like the +natives, in minute cups, he swallowed wholesale in large basins, +several times a day; this was actual poison with his complaint, +and he was completely ruined in health. He had excellent +servants,--Richarn, whom I subsequently engaged, who was my only +faithful man in my journey up the White Nile, and two good +Dongalowas. + +At this time, his old companion, Johann Schmidt, the carpenter, +arrived, having undertaken a contract to provide, for the Italian +Zoological Gardens, a number of animals. I therefore proposed +that the two old friends should continue together, while I would +hunt by myself, with the aggageers, towards the east and south. + +This arrangement was agreed to, and we parted. In the following +season, I engaged this excellent man, Johann Schmidt, as my +lieutenant for the White Nile expedition, on the banks of which +fatal river he now lies, with the cross that I erected over his +grave. + +Poor Florian at length recovered from his complaint, but was +killed by a lion. He had wounded an elephant, which on the +following morning he found dead; a lion had eaten a portion +during the night. While he was engaged with his men in extracting +the tusks, one of his hunters (a Tokroori) followed the track of +the lion on the sand, and found the animal lying beneath a bush; +he fired a single-barrelled rifle, and wounded it in the thigh. +He at once returned to his master, who accompanied him to the +spot, and the lion was found lying under the same bush, licking +the wound. Florian fired and missed; the lion immediately +crouched for a spring; Florian fired his remaining barrel, the +ball merely grazed the lion, who almost in the same instant +bounded forward, and struck him upon the head with a fearful blow +of the paw, at the same time it seized him by the throat. + +The Tokroori hunter, instead of flying from the danger, placed +the muzzle of his rifle to the lion's ear, and blew its brains +out on the body of his master. The unfortunate Florian had been +struck dead, and great difficulty was found in extracting the +claws of the lion, which had penetrated the skull. Florian, +although a determined hunter, was an exceedingly bad shot, and +withal badly armed for encounters with dangerous game; I had +frequently prophesied some calamity from the experience I had had +in a few days' shooting in his society, and most unhappily my +gloomy prediction was fulfilled. + +This was the fate of two good and sterling Germans, who had been +my companions in this wild country, where degrees of rank are +entirely forgotten, provided a man be honest and true. I +constantly look back to the European acquaintances and friends +that I made during my sojourn in Africa, nearly all of whom are +dead: a merciful Providence guided us through many dangers and +difficulties, and shielded us from all harm, during nearly five +years of constant exposure. Thanks be to God. + +Our camels returned from Geera with corn, accompanied by an +Abyssinian hunter, who was declared by Abou Do to be a good man, +and dexterous with the sword. We accordingly moved our camp, said +adieu to Florian and Johann, and penetrated still deeper into the +Base. + + +CHAPTER XV. + +ANTELOPES ON THE SETTITE. + +OUR course lay as usual along the banks of the river, which we +several times forded to avoid the bends. Great numbers of +antelopes were upon the river's bed, having descended to drink; +by making a circuit, I cut off one party upon their retreat, and +made two good shots with the Fletcher No. 24, bagging two tetel +(Antelopus Bubalis), at considerable ranges. I also shot an ariel +(G. Dama), and, upon arriving at a deep pool in the river, I shot +a bull hippopotamus, as a present for Taher Sheriff and his +brothers. We decided upon encamping at a spot known to the Arabs +as Delladilla; this was the forest upon the margin of the river +where I had first shot the bull elephant, when the aggageers +fought with him upon foot. The trees were larger in this locality +than elsewhere, as a great portion of the country was flooded by +the river dnring the rainy season, and much rich soil had been +deposited; this, with excessive moisture, had produced a forest +of fine timber, with an undergrowth of thick nabbuk. We fixed +upon a charming spot for a camp, beneath a large tree that bore +a peculiar fruit, suspended from the branches by a strong but +single fibre, like a cord; each fruit was about eighteen inches +in length, by six in diameter; it was perfectly worthless, but +extremely ornamental. We had arrived beneath this tree, and were +still on horseback; my wife had just suggested that it would be +unpleasant should one of the large fruit fall upon our heads if +we camped under the branches, when suddenly a lioness glided by +us, within three yards of the horses, and almost immediately +disappeared in the thick thorns; unfortunately, I had the moment +before given my rifle to a servant, prior to dismounting. I +searched the bushes in every direction, but to no purpose. + +This spot was so favourably situated that I determined to remain +for some time, as I could explore the country on horseback to a +great distance upon all sides. We immediately set to work to +construct our new camp, and by the evening our people had cleared +a circle of fifty yards diameter; this was swept perfectly clean, +and the ground being hard, though free from stones, the surface +was as even as a paved floor. The entire circle was well +protected with a strong fence of thorn bushes, for which the +kittar is admirably adapted; the head being mushroom-shaped, the +entire tree is cut down, and the stem being drawn towards the +inside of the camp, the thick and wide-spreading thorny crest +covers about twelve feet of the exterior frontage; a fence thus +arranged is quickly constructed, and is quite impervious. Two or +three large trees grew within the camp; beneath the shade of this +our tent was pitched. This we never inhabited, but it served as +an ordinary room, and a protection to the luggage, guns, &c. The +horses were well secured within a double circle of thorns, and +the goats wandered about at liberty, as they were too afraid of +wild animals to venture from the camp: altogether this was the +most agreeable spot we had ever occupied; even the night-fires +would be perfectly concealed within the dense shade of the nabbuk +jungle, thus neither man nor beast would be aware of our +presence. We were about a hundred paces distant from the margin +of the river; late in the evening I took my rod, and fished in +the deep bend beneath a cliff of conglomerate pebbles. I caught +only one fish, a baggar, about twelve pounds, but I landed three +large turtles; these creatures were most determined in taking the +bait; they varied in size from fifty to about ninety pounds, and +were the same species as that which inhabits the Nile (Trionis +Nilotica). From one of them we took upwards of a hundred eggs +which we converted into omelettes, but they were rather strong in +flavour. + +Although this species of turtle is unprepossessing in appearance, +having a head very like that of a snake, with a dark green shell +spotted with yellow, it produces excellent soup; the body is +exceedingly flat, and the projecting edges of the shell are soft; +it runs extremely fast upon the shore, and is suggestive of the +tortoise that beat the hare in the well-known race. Throughout +the Nile and its tributaries there are varieties of fish and +reptiles closely connected, and the link can be distinctly traced +in the progression of development. There is a fish with a hard +bony frame, or shell, that includes the head, and extends over +more than half the body; this has two long and moveable spikes +beneath the fore fins, upon which it can raise itself as upon +legs when upon the land; when first caught, this fish makes a +noise something like the mewing of a cat: this appears to be +closely linked to the tortoise. The Lepidosiren Annectens, found +in the White Nile, is a link between the fish and the frog; and +certain varieties of mud fish that remain alive throughout a dry +season in the sun-baked earth, and reappear with the following +rains exhibit a close affinity to reptiles. + +On the morning after our arrival, I started to explore the +country with the aggageers, and rode about forty miles, From this +point, hills of basalt and granite commenced, connected by rugged +undulations of white quartz, huge blocks of which were scattered +upon the surface; in many of these I found thin veins of galena. + +All the rocks were igneous; we had left the sandstone that had +marked the course of the Atbara and the valley of the Settite as +far as Ombrega, and I was extremely puzzled to account for the +presence of the pure white and rose-coloured limestone that we +had found only in one place--Geera. As we were now among the +hills and mountains, the country was extremely beautiful; at the +farthest point of that day's excursion we were close to the high +range from which, in the rainy season, innumerable torrents pour +into the Settite; some of these gorges were ornamented with the +dark foliage of large tamarind trees, while upon rocks that did +not appear to offer any sustenance, the unsightly yet mighty +baobab* grasped with its gnarled roots the blocks of granite, and +formed a peculiar object in the wild and rugged scenery. + + * The largest baobab (Adansonia digitata) that I have + + measured was fifty-one feet and one inch in circumference. + +Through this romantic wilderness, the Settite flowed in a clear +and beautiful stream, sometimes contracted between cliffs to a +width of a hundred yards, at others stretching to three times +that distance. The hippopotami were in great numbers; many were +lying beneath the shady trees upon the banks, and splashed into +the water as we appeared; others were basking in large herds upon +the shallows; while the young calves, supported upon the backs of +their mothers, sailed about upon their animated rafts in perfect +security. The Base had been here recently, as we discovered their +footprints upon the sand, and we arrived at some tobacco +plantations that they had formed upon the sandbanks of the river. +The aggageers expressed their determination to sabre them should +we happen to meet, and were much displeased at my immediately +placing a veto upon their bloody intentions, with a reservation +for necessity in self-defence. + +The Base were far too wide awake, and, although seen once during +the day by my people, they disappeared like monkeys; their spies +had doubtless reported our movements ever since we had entered +their country, and, fearing the firearms, they had retreated to +their fastnesses among the mountains. + +During the day's march we had seen a large quantity of game, but +I had not wished to shoot until on our return towards the camp. +We were about four miles from home, when a nellut (A. +Strepsiceros) bounded away from a ravine. I was riding Tetel, +whom I had taught to stand fire, in which he was remarkably +steady. I made a quick shot with the little Fletcher from the +saddlle; but, as the nellut ran straight before me, the bullet +struck the haunch: away went the aggageers after the wounded +animal, like greyhounds, and in a few hundred yards the sword +finished the hunt. + +The Nellut is the handsomest of all the large antelopes; the male +is about thirteen hands high, and carries a pair of beautiful +spiral horns, upwards of three feet in length; the colour of the +hide is a dark mouse-grey, ornamented with white stripes down the +flanks, and a white line along the back from the shoulder to the +tail. The female is without horns, but is in other respects +similar to the male. These beautiful animals do not inhabit the +plains like the other varieties of antelopes, but are generally +found in deep-wooded ravines. In South Africa it is known as the +koodoo. + +The aggageers quickly flayed and quartered the game, which was +arranged upon the horses, and thus it was carried to our camp, at +which we arrived late in the evening. + +On the following morning, at my usual hour of starting, a little +before sunrise, we crossed a deep portion of the river, through +which the horses were obliged to swim; on this occasion I rode +Aggahr, who was my best hunter. In that very charming and useful +book by Mr. Francis Galton, "The Art of Travel," advice is given +for crossing a deep river, by holding to the tail of the swimming +horse. In this I cannot agree; the safety of the man is much +endangered by the heels of the horse, and his security depends +upon the length of the animal's tail. In rivers abounding in +crocodiles, which generally follow an animal before they seize, +the man hanging on to the tail of the horse is a most alluring +bait, and he would certainly be taken, should one of these +horrible monsters be attracted to the party. I have always found +great comfort in crossing a river by simply holding to the mane, +just in front of the saddle, with my left hand, with the bridle +grasped as loosely as possible, so that the horse does not feel +the bit; in this position, on the off side, the animal does not +feel any hindrance; the man not only can direct his horse, but +his presence gives it confidence, as he can speak to it coaxingly +while swimming with one arm by its side. Upon landing, he at once +controls the horse by the reins within his left grasp. + +Many horses become exceedingly scared in swimming a rapid river, +and will frequently lose their presence of mind, and swim with +the current, in which case they may miss the favourable landing +place; if the man holds by the tail, he has no control over the +horse upon landing, and, if wild or vicious, the animal will +probably kick up its heels and bolt away, leaving the unfortunate +proprietor helpless. In swimming a river with the horse, the +powder, &c. should be made into a parcel with your outer garment, +and tied upon the head; then lead your horse gently into the +water, and for a moment allow it to drink, to prevent all +shyness; continue to lead it until you lose your depth, when, by +holding with your left hand to the mane, both horse and man will +cross with perfect ease. + +We had crossed the river, and, as we passed through an opening in +the belt of jungle on the banks, and entered upon a plain +interspersed with clumps of bush, we perceived, at about two +hundred yards distance, a magnificent lion, whose shaggy yellow +mane gave him a colossal appearance, as he stalked quietly along +the flat sandy ground towards the place of his daily retreat. The +aggageers whispered, "El Assut!" (the lion), and instinctively +the swords flashed from their sheaths. In an instant, the horses +were at full speed sweeping over the level ground. The lion had +not observed us; but, upon hearing the sound of the hoofs, he +halted and raised his head, regarding us for a moment with +wonder, as we rapidly decreased our distance, when, thinking +retreat advisable, he bounded off, followed by the excited +hunters, as hard as the horses could be pressed. Having obtained +a good start, we had gained upon him, and we kept up the pace +until we at length arrived within about eighty yards of the lion, +who, although he appeared to fly easily along like a cat, did not +equal the speed of the horses. It was a beautiful sight. Aggahr +was an exceedingly fast horse, and, having formerly belonged to +one of the Hamran hunters, he thoroughly understood his work. His +gallop was perfection, and his long steady stride was as easy to +himself as to his rider; there was no necessity to guide him, as +he followed an animal like a greyhound, and sailed between the +stems of the numerous trees, carefully avoiding their trunks, and +choosing his route where the branches allowed ample room for the +rider to pass beneath. In about five minutes we had run the lion +straight across the plain, through several open strips of +mimosas, and we were now within a few yards, hut unfortunately, +just as Taher and Abou Do dashed forward in the endeavour to ride +upon either flank, he sprang down a precipitous ravine, and +disappeared in the thick thorns. + +The ravine formed a broad bottom, which, covered with dense green +nabbuk, continued for a great distance, and effectually saved the +lion. I was much disappointed, as we should have had a glorious +fight, and I had long sought for an opportunity of witnessing an +attack upon the lion with the sword. The aggageers were equally +annoyed, and they explained that they should have been certain to +kill him. Their plan was to ride upon either flank, at a few +yards' distance, when he would have charged one man, who would +have dashed away, while the other hunter would have slashed the +lion through the back with his sword. They declared that a good +hunter should be able to protect himself by a back-handed blow +with his sword, should the lion attack the horse from behind; but +that the great danger in a lion hunt arose when the animal took +refuge in a solitary bush, and turned to bay. In such instances +the hunters surrounded the bush, and rode direct towards him, +when he generally sprang out upon some man or horse; he was then +cut down immediately by the sabre of the next hunter. The +aggageers declared that, in the event of an actual fight, the +death of the lion was certain, although one or more men or horses +might be wounded, or perhaps killed. + +The morning gallop had warmed our nags after their bath in the +cool river, and we now continued leisurely towards the stream, +upon the margin of which we rode for several miles. We had +determined to set fire to the grass, as, although upon poorer +soil it had almost disappeared through the withering of the +roots, upon fertile ground it was almost nine feet high, and not +only concealed the game, but prevented us from riding. We +accordingly rode towards a spot where bright yellow herbage +invited the fire-stick; but hardly had we arrived, when we +noticed a solitary bull buffalo (Bos Caffer), feeding within +about a hundred and fifty yards. I immediately dismounted, and, +creeping towards him to within fifty paces, I shot him through +the neck with one of my Reilly No. 10 rifles. I had hoped to drop +him dead by the shot, instead of which he galloped off, of course +followed by the aggageers, with the exception of one, who held my +horse. Quickly mounted, we joined in the hunt, and in about three +minutes we ran the buffalo to bay in a thicket of thorns on the +margin of the river. These thorns were just thick enough to +conceal him at times, but to afford us a glance of his figure as +he moved from his position. There was a glade which cut through +and divided the jungle, and I wished the aggageers to drive him, +if possible, across this, when I should have a good opportunity +of shooting. To my astonishment, one of the most daring hunters +jumped off his horse with his drawn sword, and, telling me to +look out, he coolly entered the jungle alone to court the attack +of the buffalo. I would not allow him to risk his life for an +animal that I had been the first to wound, therefore I insisted +upon his return, and begging Abou Do to hold my bridle when I +should fire, I rode with him carefully along the skirts of the +jungle along the glade, keeping a good look-out among the thorns +for the buffalo. Presently I heard a short grunt within twenty +yards of us, and I quickly perceived the buffalo standing +broadside on, with his head to the wind, that brought down the +scent of the people on the other side. + +I had my little Fletcher No. 24 in my hand--that handy little +weapon that almost formed an extra bone of myself, and, +whispering to Abou Do to hold my bridle close to the bit, as +Aggahr was not very steady under fire, I took a clean shot direct +at the centre of the shoulder. The ball smacked as though it had +struck an iron target. Aggahr gave a start, and for the moment +both Abou Do and myself were prepared for a rush; but the buffalo +had never flinched, and he remained standing as though +immoveable. Abon Do whispered, "You missed him, I heard the +bullet strike the tree;" I shook my head, and quickly +re-loaded--it was impossible to miss at that distance, and I knew +that I had fired steadily. Hardly had I rammed the bullet down, +when, with a sudden thump, down fell the buffalo upon his side, +and, rolling over upon his back, he gave a few tremendous +struggles, and lay dead. + +Great caution should be invariably used in approaching a fallen +buffalo and all other dangerous animals, as they are apt to +recover sufficiently, upon seeing the enemy, to make a last +effort to attack, which is generally more serious than any other +phase of the hunt. We accordingly pitched a few large stones at +him to test the reality of death, and then walked up and examined +him. The Reilly No. 10 had gone quite through the neck, but had +missed a vital part. The little Fletcher had made a clean and +minute hole exactly through the shoulder, and upon opening the +body we found the ball sticking in the ribs on the opposite side, +having passed through the very centre of the lungs. + +The aggageers now carefully flayed it, and divided the tough hide +into portions accurately measured for shields. One man galloped +back to direct the two water-camels that were following in our +tracks, while others cut up the buffalo, and prepared the usual +disgusting feast by cutting up the reeking paunch, over which +they squeezed the contents of the gall-bladder, and consumed the +whole, raw and steaming.* On the arrival of the camels they were +quickly loaded, and we proceeded to fire the grass on our return +to camp. The Arabs always obtained their fire by the friction of +two pieces of wood; accordingly, they set to work. A piece of dry +nabbuk was selected, about as thick as the little finger. A notch +was cut in this, and it was laid horizontally upon the ground, +with the notch uppermost; into this was fixed the sharp point of +a similar piece of wood, about eighteen inches long, which, being +held perpendicularly with both hands, was worked between the +palms like a drill, with as great a pressure as possible, from +the top to the bottom, as the hands descended with the motion of +rubbing or rolling the stick. After about two minutes of great +labour, the notch began to smoke, a brown dust, like ground +coffee, fell from the singed wood, and this charred substance, +after increased friction, emitted a still denser smoke, and +commenced smouldering; the fire was produced. A rag was torn from +the thorn-brushed drawers of one of the party, in which the fire +was carefully wrapped and fanned with the breath; it was then +placed in a wisp of dry grass, and rapidly turned in the air +until the flame burst forth. A burning-glass should be always +carried in these countries, where a cloudless sky ensures an +effect. Although in Arab hands the making of fire appears +exceedingly simple, I have never been able to effect it. I have +worked at the two sticks until they have been smoking and I have +been steaming, with my hands blistered, but I have never got +beyond the smoke; there is a peculiar knack which, like playing +the fiddle, must be acquired, although it looks very easy. It is +not every wood that will produce fire by this method; those most +inflammable are the cotton-tree and the nabbuk. We now descended +to the river, and fired the grass; the north wind was brisk, and +the flames extended over miles of country within an hour. + + * All these Arabs, in like manner with the Abyssinians, + + are subject to the attacks of intestinal worms, induced + + by their habit of eating raw flesh. + +We returned towards the camp. On the way we saw numerous +antelopes; and, dismounting, I ordered one of the hunters to lead +my horse while I attempted to stalk a fine buck mehedehet +(Redunca Ellipsyprimna). There were several in the herd, but +there was a buck with a fine head a few yards in advance; they +were standing upon an undulation on open ground backed by high +grass. I had marked a small bush as my point of cover, and +creeping unobserved towards this, I arrived unseen within about +a hundred and twenty yards of the buck. With the Fletcher 24 I +made a good shoulder-shot; the buck gave a few bounds and fell +dead; the does looked on in astonishment, and I made an equally +lucky shot with the left-hand barrel, bringing down what I at +first had mistaken to be a doe, but I discovered it to be a young +buck. + +The Mehedehet is an antelope of great beauty; it resembles the +red deer in colour, but the coat is still rougher; it stands +about thirteen hands in height, with a pair of long +slightly-curved annulated horns. The live weight of the male +would be about five hundred pounds; the female, like the nellut +(Tragelaphus Strepsiceros), is devoid of horns, and much +resembles the female of the Sambur deer of India. This antelope +is the "water-buck" of South Africa. + +On arrival at the camp, I resolved to fire the entire country on +the following day, and to push still farther up the course of the +Settite to the foot of the mountains, and to return to this camp +in about a fortnight, by which time the animals that had been +scared away by the fire would have returned. Accordingly, on the +following morning, accompanied by a few of the aggageers, I +started upon the south bank of the river, and rode for some +distance into the interior, to the ground that was entirely +covered with high withered grass. We were passing through a mass +of kittar and thorn-bush, almost hidden by the immensely high +grass, when, as I was ahead of the party, I came suddenly upon +the tracks of a rhinoceros; these were so unmistakeably recent +that I felt sure we were not far from the animals themselves. As +I had wished to fire the grass, I was accompanied by my +Tokrooris, and my horse-keeper, Mahomet No. 2. It was difficult +ground for the men, and still more unfavourable for the horses, +as large disjointed masses of stone were concealed in the high +grass. + +We were just speculating as to the position of the rhinoceros, +and thinking how uncommonly unpleasant it would be should he +obtain our wind, when whiff! whiff! whiff! We heard the sharp +whistling snort, with a tremendous rush through the high grass +and thorns close to us; and at the same moment two of these +determined brutes were upon us in full charge. I never saw such +a scrimmage; sauve qui peut! There was no time for more than one +look behind. I dug the spurs into Aggahr's flanks, and clasping +him round the neck, I ducked my head down to his shoulder, well +protected with my strong hunting-cap, and I kept the spurs going +as hard as I could ply them, blindly trusting to Providence and +my good horse, over big rocks, fallen trees, thick kittar thorns, +and grass ten feet high, with the two infernal animals in full +chase only a few feet behind me. I heard their abominable +whiffing close to me, but so did good horse also, and the good +old hunter flew over obstacles that I should have thought +impossible, and he dashed straight under the hooked thorn bushes +and doubled like a hare. The aggageers were all scattered; +Mahomet No. 2 was knocked over by a rhinoceros; all the men were +sprawling upon the rocks with their guns, and the party was +entirely discomfited. Having passed the kittar thorn, I turned, +and, seeing that the beasts had gone straight on, I brought +Aggahr's head round, and tried to give chase, but it was +perfectly impossible; it was only a wonder that the horse had +escaped in ground so difficult for riding. Although my clothes +were of the strongest and coarsest Arab cotton cloth, which +seldom tore, but simply lost a thread when caught in a thorn, I +was nearly naked. My blouse was reduced to shreds; as I wore +sleeves only half way from the shoulder to the elbow, my naked +arms were streaming with blood; fortunately my hunting cap was +secured with a chin strap, and still more fortunately I had +grasped the horse's neck, otherwise I must have been dragged out +of the saddle by the hooked thorns. All the men were cut and +bruised, some having fallen upon their heads among the rocks, and +others had hurt their legs in falling in their endeavours to +escape. Mahomet No. 2, the horse-keeper, was more frightened than +hurt, as he had been knocked down by the shoulder and not by the +horn of the rhinoceros, as the animal had not noticed him; its +attention was absorbed by the horse. + +I determined to set fire to the whole country immediately, and +descending the hill towards the river to obtain a favourable +wind, I put my men in a line, extending over about a mile along +the river's bed, and they fired the grass in different places. +With a loud roar, the flame leapt high in air and rushed forward +with astonishing velocity; the grass was as inflammable as +tinder, and the strong north wind drove the long line of fire +spreading in every direction through the country. + +We now crossed to the other side of the river to avoid the +flames, and we returned towards the camp. On the way, I made a +long shot and badly wounded a tetel, but lost it in thick thorns; +shortly after, I stalked a nellut (A. Strepsiceros), and bagged +it with the Fletcher rifle. + +We arrived early in camp, and on the following day we moved +sixteen miles farther up stream, and camped under a tamarind tree +by the side of the river. No European had ever been farther than +our last camp, Delladilla, and that spot had only been visited by +Johann Schmidt and Florian. In the previous year, my aggageers +had sabred some of the Base at this very camping-place; they +accordingly requested me to keep a vigilant watch during the +night, as they would be very likely to attack us in revenge, +unless they had been scared by the rifles and by the size of our +party. They advised me not to remain long in this spot, as it +would be very dangerous for my wife to be left almost alone +during the day, when we were hunting, and that the Base would be +certain to espy us from the mountains, and would most probably +attack and carry her off when they were assured of our departure. +She was not very nervous about this, but she immediately called +the dragoman, Mahomet, who knew the use of a gun, and she asked +him if he would stand by her in case they were attacked in my +absence; the faithful servant replied, "Mahomet fight the Base? +No, Missus; Mahomet not fight; if the Base come, Missus fight; +Mahomet run away; Mahomet not come all the way from Cairo to get +him killed by black fellers; Mahomet will run--Inshallah!" +(please God). + +This frank avowal of his military tactics was very reassuring. +There was a high hill of basalt, something resembling a pyramid, +within a quarter of a mile of us; I accordingly ordered some of +my men every day to ascend this look-out station, and I resolved +to burn the high grass at once, so as to destroy all cover for +the concealment of an enemy. That evening I very nearly burnt our +camp; I had several times ordered the men to clear away the dry +grass for about thirty yards from our resting-place; this they +had neglected to obey. We had been joined a few days before by a +party of about a dozen Hamran Arabs, who were hippopotami +hunters; thus we mustered very strong, and it would have been the +work of about half an hour to have cleared away the grass as I +had desired. + +The wind was brisk, and blew directly towards our camp, which was +backed by the river. I accordingly took a fire-stick, and I told +my people to look sharp, as they would not clear away the grass. +I walked to the foot of the basalt hill, and fired the grass in +several places. In an instant the wind swept the flame and smoke +towards the camp. All was confusion; the Arabs had piled the +camel-saddles and all their corn and effects in the high grass +about twenty yards from the tent; there was no time to remove all +these things; therefore, unless they could clear away the grass +so as to stop the fire before it should reach the spot, they +would be punished for their laziness by losing their property. +The fire travelled quicker than I had expected, and, by the time +I had hastened to the tent, I found the entire party working +frantically; the Arabs were slashing down the grass with their +swords, and sweeping it away with their shields, while my +Tokrooris were beating it down with long sticks and tearing it +from its withered and fortunately tinder-rotten roots, in +desperate haste. The flames rushed on, and we already felt the +heat, as volumes of smoke enveloped us; I thought it advisable to +carry the gunpowder (about 20 lbs.), down to the river, together +with the rifles; while my wife and Mahomet dragged the various +articles of luggage to the same place of safety. The fire now +approached within about sixty yards, and dragging out the iron +pins, I let the tent fall to the ground. The Arabs had swept a +line like a highroad perfectly clean, and they were still tearing +away the grass, when they were suddenly obliged to rush back as +the flames arrived. + +Almost instantaneously the smoke blew over us, but the fire had +expired upon meeting the cleared ground. I now gave them a little +lecture upon obedience to orders; and from that day, their first +act upon halting for the night was to clear away the grass, lest +I should repeat the entertainment. In countries that are covered +with dry grass, it should be an invariable rule to clear the +ground around the camp before night; hostile natives will +frequently fire the grass to windward of a party, or careless +servants may leave their pipes upon the ground, which fanned by +the wind would quickly create a blaze. That night the mountain +afforded a beautiful appearance as the flames ascended the steep +sides, and ran flickering up the deep gullies with a brilliant +light. + +We were standing outside the tent admiring the scene, which +perfectly illuminated the neighbourhood, when suddenly an +apparition of a lion and lioness stood for an instant before us +at about fifteen yards distance, and then disappeared over the +blackened ground before I had time to snatch a rifle from the +tent. No doubt they had been disturbed from the mountain by the +fire, and had mistaken their way in the country so recently +changed from high grass to black ashes. In this locality I +considered it advisable to keep a vigilant watch during the +night, and the Arabs were told off for that purpose. + +A little before sunrise I accompanied the howartis, or +hippopotamus hunters, for a day's sport. There were numbers of +hippos in this part of the river, and we were not long before we +found a herd. The hunters failed in several attempts to harpoon +them, but they succeeded in stalking a crocodile after a most +peculiar fashion. This large beast was lying upon a sandbank on +the opposite margin of the river, close to a bed of rushes. + +The howartis, having studied the wind, ascended for about a +quarter of a mile, and then swam across the river, harpoon in +hand. The two men reached the opposite bank, beneath which they +alternately waded or swam down the stream towards the spot upon +which the crocodile was lying. Thus advancing under cover of the +steep bank, or floating with the stream in deep places, and +crawling like crocodiles across the shallows, the two hunters at +length arrived at the bank of rushes, on the other side of which +the monster was basking asleep upon the sand. They were now about +waist-deep, and they kept close to the rushes with their harpoons +raised, ready to cast the moment they should pass the rush bed +and come in view of the crocodile. Thus steadily advancing, they +had just arrived at the corner within about eight yards of the +crocodile, when the creature either saw them, or obtained their +wind; in an inatant it rushed to the water; at the same moment, +the two harpoons were launched with great rapidity by the +hunters. One glanced obliquely from the scales; the other stuck +fairly in the tough hide, and the iron, detached from the bamboo, +held fast, while the ambatch float, running on the surface of the +water, marked the course of the reptile beneath. + +The hunters chose a convenient place, and recrossed the stream to +our side, apparently not heeding the crocodiles more than we +should fear pike when bathing in England. They would not waste +their time by securing the crocodile at present, as they wished +to kill a hippopotamus; the float would mark the position, and +they would be certain to find it later. We accordingly continued +our search for hippopotami; these animals appeared to be on the +qui vive, and, as the hunters once more failed in an attempt, I +made a clean shot behind the ear of one, and killed it dead. At +length we arrived at a large pool in which were several sandbanks +covered with rushes, and many rocky islands. Among these rocks +was a herd of hippopotami, consisting of an old bull and several +cows; a young hippo was standing, like an ugly little statue, on +a protruding rock, while another infant stood upon its mother's +back that listlessly floated on the water. + +This was an admirable place for the hunters. They desired me to +lie down, and they crept into the jungle out of view of the +river; I presently observed them stealthily descending the dry +bed about two hundred paces above the spot where the hippos were +basking behind the rocks. They entered the river, and swam down +the centre of the stream towards the rock. This was highly +exciting:--the hippos were quite unconscious of the approaching +danger, as, steadily and rapidly, the hunters floated down the +strong current; they neared the rock, and both heads disappeared +as they purposely sunk out of view; in a few seconds later they +reappeared at the edge of the rock upon which the young hippo +stood. It would be difficult to say which started first, the +astonished young hippo into the water, or the harpoons from the +hands of the howartis! It was the affair of a moment; the hunters +dived directly they had hurled their harpoons, and, swimming for +some distance under water, they came to the surface, and hastened +to the shore lest an infuriated hippopotamus should follow them. +One harpoon had missed; the other had fixed the bull of the herd, +at which it had been surely aimed. This was grand sport! The bull +was in the greatest fury, and rose to the surface, snorting and +blowing in his impotent rage; but as the ambatch float was +exceedingly large, and this naturally accompanied his movements, +he tried to escape from his imaginary persecutor, and dived +constantly, only to find his pertinacious attendant close to him +upon regaining the surface. This was not to last long; the +howartis were in earnest, and they at once called their party, +who, with two of the aggageers, Abou Do and Suleiman, were near +at hand; these men arrived with the long ropes that form a +portion of the outfit for hippo hunting. + +The whole party now halted on the edge of the river, while two +men swam across with one end of the long rope. Upon gaining the +opposite bank, I observed that a second rope was made fast to the +middle of the main line; thus upon our side we held the ends of +two ropes, while on the opposite side they had only one; +accordingly, the point of junction of the two ropes in the centre +formed an acute angle. The object of this was soon practically +explained. Two men upon our side now each held a rope, and one of +these walked about ten yards before the other. Upon both sides of +the river the people now advanced, dragging the rope on the +surface of the water until they reached the ambatch float that +was swimming to and fro, according to the movements of the +hippopotamus below. By a dexterous jerk of the main line, the +float was now placed between the two ropes, and it was +immediately secured in the acute angle by bringing together the +ends of these ropes on our side. + +The men on the opposite bank now dropped their line, and our men +hauled in upon the ambatch float that was held fast between the +ropes. Thus cleverly made sure, we quickly brought a strain upon +the hippo, and, although I have had some experience in handling +big fish, I never knew one pull so lustily as the amphibious +animal that we now alternately coaxed and bullied. He sprang out +of the water, gnashed his huge jaws, snorted with tremendous +rage, and lashed the river into foam; he then dived, and +foolishly approached us beneath the water. We quickly gathered in +the slack line, and took a round turn upon a large rock, within +a few feet of the river. The hippo now rose to the surface, about +ten yards from the hunters, and, jumping half out of the water, +he snapped his great jaws together, endeavouring to catch the +rope, but at the same instant two harpoons were launched into his +side. Disdaining retreat, and maddened with rage, the furious +animal charged from the depths of the river, and, gaining a +footing, he reared his bulky form from the surface, came boldly +upon the sandbank, and attacked the hunters open-mouthed. He +little knew his enemy; they were not the men to fear a pair of +gaping jaws, armed with a deadly array of tusks, but half a dozen +lances were hurled at him, some entering his mouth from a +distance of five or six paces, at the same time several men threw +handfuls of sand into his enormous eyes. This baffled him more +than the lances; he crunched the shafts between his powerful jaws +like straws, but he was beaten by the sand, and, shaking his huge +head, he retreated to the river. During his sally upon the shore, +two of the hunters had secured the ropes of the harpoons that had +been fastened in his body just before his charge; he was now +fixed by three of these deadly instruments, but suddenly one rope +gave way, having been bitten through by the enraged beast, who +was still beneath the water. Immediately after this he appeared +on the surface, and, without a moment's hesitation, he once more +charged furiously from the water straight at the hunters, with +his huge mouth open to such an extent that he could have +accommodated two inside passengers. Suleiman was wild with +delight, and springing forward lance in hand, he drove it against +the head of the formidable animal, but without effect. At the +same time, Abou Do met the hippo sword in hand, reminding me of +Perseus slaying the sea-monster that would devour Andromeda, but +the sword made a harmless gash, and the lance, already blunted +against the rocks, refused to penetrate the tough hide; once more +handfuls of sand were pelted upon his face, and, again repulsed +by this blinding attack, he was forced to retire to his deep hole +and wash it from his eyes. Six times during the fight the valiant +bull hippo quitted his watery fortress, and charged resolutely at +his pursuers; he had broken several of their lances in his jaws, +other lances had been hurled, and, falling upon the rocks, they +were blunted, and would not penetrate. The fight had continued +for three hours, and the sun was about to set, accordingly the +hunters begged me to give him the coup de grace, as they had +hauled him close to the shore, and they feared he would sever the +rope with his teeth. I waited for a good opportunity, when he +boldly raised his head from water about three yards from the +rifle, and a bullet from the little Fletcher between the eyes +closed the last act. This spot was not far from the pyramidical +hill beneath which I had fixed our camp, to which I returned +after an amusing day's sport. + +The next morning, I started to the mountains to explore the limit +that I had proposed for my expedition on the Settite. The Arabs +had informed me that a river of some importance descended from +the mountains, and joined the main stream about twelve miles from +our camp. The aggageers were seriously expecting an attack from +the Base, and they advised me not to remain much longer in this +spot. The route was highly interesting: about five miles to the +south-east of the camp we entered the hilly and mountainous +country; to the east rose the peaked head of Allatakoora, about +seven thousand feet from the base, while S.S.E. was the lofty +table-mountain, known by the Arabs as Boorkotan. We rode through +fertile valleys, all of which were free from grass, as the +various fires had spread throughout the country; at times we +entered deep gorges between the hills, which were either granite, +quartz, or basalt, the latter predominating. In about three hours +and a half we arrived at Hor Mehetape, the stream that the Arabs +had reported. Although a powerful torrent during the rains, it +was insignificant as one of the tributaries to the Settite, as +the breadth did not exceed twenty-five yards. At this season it +was nearly dry, and at no time did it appear to exceed a depth of +ten or twelve feet. As we had arrived at this point, some +distance above the junction, we continued along the margin of the +stream for about two miles until we reached the Settite. The Hor +(a ravine) Mehetape was the limit of my exploration; it was +merely a rapid mountain torrent, the individual effect of which +would be trifling; but we were now among the mountains whose +drainage caused the sudden rise of the Atbara river and the Nile. +Far as the eye could reach to the south and east, the range +extended in a confused mass of peaks of great altitude, from the +sharp granite head of one thousand, to flat-topped basalt hills +of five or six thousand feet, and other conical points far +exceeding, and perhaps double, that altitude. + +The Settite was very beautiful in this spot, as it emerged from +the gorge between the mountains, and it lay in a rough stony +valley about two hundred feet below our path as we ascended from +the junction of the Hor to better riding ground. In many places, +our route lay over broken stones, which sloped at an inclination +of about thirty degrees throughout the entire distance of the +river below; these were formed of decomposed basalt rocks that +had apparently been washed from decaying hills by the torrents of +the rainy season. At other parts of the route, we crossed above +similar debris of basalt that lay at an angle of about sixty +degrees, from a height of perhaps two hundred feet to the water's +edge, and reminded me of the rubbish shot from the side of a +mountain when boring a tunnel. The whole of the basalt in this +portion of the country was a dark slate colour; in some places it +was almost black; upon breaking a great number of pieces I found +small crystals of olivine. Much of the granite was a deep red, +but the exterior coating was in all cases decomposed, and +crumbled at a blow; exhibiting a marked contrast to the +hard-faced granite blocks in the rainless climate of Lower Egypt. +We saw but little game during the march--a few nellut and tetel, +and the smaller antelopes, but no larger animals. + +We returned to camp late in the evening, and I found the howartis +had secured the crocodile of yesterday, but the whole party was +anxious to return to the camp at Delladilla, as unpleasant +reports were brought into camp by our spies, who had seen parties +of the Base in several directions. + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +ABOU DO IS GREEDY. + +ABOU DO and Suleiman had lately given me some trouble, especially +the former, whose covetous nature had induced him to take much +more than his share of the hides of buffaloes and other animals +that I had shot; all of which I had given to my head camel-man +and tracker, Taher Noor, to divide among his people and the +Tokrooris. This conduct was more improper, since the aggageers +had become perfectly useless as elephant-hunters; they had ridden +so recklessly upon unnecessary occasions, that all their horses +were lamed, and, with the exception of Abou Do's, they were +incapable of hunting. My three, having been well cared for, were +in excellent condition. Abou Do coolly proposed that I should +lend him my horses, which I of course refused, as I had a long +journey before me; this led to disagreement, and I ordered him +and his people to leave my camp, and return to Geera. During the +time they had been with me, I had shot great numbers of animals, +including large antelopes, buffaloes, elephants, &c.; and about +twenty camel-loads of dried flesh, hides, fat, &c. had been +transported to Geera as the Arabs' share of the spoils. They had +also the largest share of ivory, and altogether they had never +made so successful a hunting expedition. It was time to part; +their horses being used up, they began to be discontented, +therefore I had concluded that it would be advisable to separate, +to avoid a graver misunderstanding. + +I warned them not to disturb my hunting-grounds by attempting to +hunt during their journey, but they were to. ride straight home, +which they could accomplish in four days, without baggage camels. +This they promised to do, and we parted. + +I was now without aggageers, as Taher Sheriff's party had +disagreed with Abou Do some time before, and they were hunting on +their own account on the banks of the river Royan, which I +intended to visit after I should have thoroughly explored the +Settite. I made up my mind to have one more day in the +neighbourhood of my present camp, and then to return to our old +quarters at Delladilla, previous to our journey to the Royan +junction. + +Within three hundred yards of the camp was a regular game path, +by which the animals arrived at the river to drink every morning +from seven to nine. I had shot several tetel and ariel by simply +waiting behind a rock at this place, and, as this was my last +day, I once more concealed myself, and was shortly rewarded by +the arrival of several herds, including nellut (A. Strepsiceros), +tetel (A. Bubalis), ariel (G. Dama), the black-striped gazelle +(G. Dorcas), the small oterop (Calotragus Montanus); and, among +these, two ostriches. I had seen very few ostriches in this +country. I now had a good chance, as the herd of animals returned +from drinking by charging at full speed up the steep bank from +the water, and they passed about ninety yards from my +hiding-place, headed by the ostriches. Having the little +Fletcher, I was suddenly tempted to fire a right and left, so as +to bag an ostrich with one barrel, and a tetel with the other. +Both fell for an instant; the tetel dead, shot through the neck; +but my ostrich, that was a fine cock bird, immediately recovered, +and went off with his wife as hard as their long legs could carry +them. I was exceedingly disgusted; I had evidently fired too far +behind, not having allowed sufficiently for the rapidity of their +speed. However, to make amends, I snatched a spare single-rifle +from Hassan, and knocked over another tetel that was the last of +the herd. For about an hour I attempted to follow up the tracks +of the ostrich, but among the rocky hills this was impossible. I +therefore mounted Aggahr, and with my tracker, Taher Noor, and +the Tokrooris as gun-bearers, I crossed the river and rode +straight into the interior of the country. This was now +thoroughly clear, as the fire had consumed the grass, and had +left the surface perfectly black. Upon the ashes, the track of +every animal could be seen distinctly. + +I had ridden about four miles, followed, as usual, by two camels, +with water, ropes, &c. when we observed in a perfectly open +place, about three hundred yards from us, a rhinoceros standing +alone. Fortunately, there was little or no wind, or, as we were +to windward of him, he would instantly have perceived us. The +moment that I saw him, I backed my horse and motioned to my +people to retreat out of sight, which they did immediately. +Dismounting, I gave them the horse, and, accompanied only by +Taher Noor, who carried one of my spare rifles, I took a Reilly +No. 10, and we made a circuit so as to obtain the wind, and to +arrive upon the lee side of the rhinoceros. This was quickly +accomplished, but upon arrival at the spot, he was gone. The +black ashes of the recent fire showed his, foot-marks as clearly +as though printed in ink, and as these were very close together, +I knew that he had walked slowly off, and that he had not been +disturbed, otherwise he would have started quickly. He had gone +down wind; it would, therefore, be impossible to follow upon his +tracks. Our only resource was to make another circuit, when, +should his tracks not have crossed the arc, we should be sure +that he was to windward. Accordingly, we described half a circle +of about five hundred yards. No tracks had crossed our path; the +ground was stony and full of hollows, in which grew a few +scattered mimosas, while the surface of the earth was covered in +many places with dark brown masses of basalt rock. We carefully +stepped over this uneven ground, lest some falling stone might +give the alarm, and we momentarily expected to be in view of the +enemy as we arrived at the edge of each successive hollow. Sure +enough, as I glanced down a sudden inclination covered with +scorched mimosas, I perceived him standing on the slope beneath +a tree within five-and-thirty paces; this was close enough, and +I took a steady shot behind the shoulder. The instant that I +fired, he whisked sharply round, and looked upon all sides for +the cause of his wound. I had taken the precaution to kneel down +immediately after firing, and I now crouched close to a rock +about two feet high, with which my brown blouse matched exactly, +as well as my skin-covered hunting-cap. For a few moments he +sought upon all sides for an enemy, during which I remained like +a block of stone, but with my finger on the trigger ready for the +left-hand barrel should he charge. Taher Noor was lying on the +ground behind a stone about five yards from me, and the +rhinoceros, having failed to discover us, walked slowly past me +within less than ten yards, and gained the summit of the +inclination, where the ground was level. As he passed, I reloaded +quickly, and followed behind him. I saw that he was grievously +wounded, as he walked slowly, and upon arrival at a +thickly-spreading mimosa he lay down. We now advanced towards the +tree, and I sent Taher Noor round to the other side in order to +divert his attention should he be able to rise. This he quickly +proved by springing up as I advanced; accordingly, I halted until +Taher Noor had taken his stand about eighty paces beyond the +tree. The rhinoceros now turned and faced him; this gave me the +opportunity that I had expected, and I ran quickly to within +thirty yards, just in time to obtain a good shoulder shot, as +hearing my footsteps he turned towards me. Whiff! whiff! and he +charged vigorously upon the shot; but just as I prepared to fire +the remaining barrel, he ran round and round in a narrow circle, +uttering a short, shrill cry, and fell heavily upon his side. I +threw a stone at him, but he was already dead. Taher Noor +returned for the people, who shortly arrived with the camels. I +found that the last bullet of quicksilver and lead from my Reilly +No. 10 had passed completely through the body, just behind the +shoulder. The first shot was also a mortal wound, having broken +one rib upon either side, and passed through the posterior +portion of the lungs; the bullet was sticking under the skin on +the opposite flank. The hide of the rhinoceros is exceedingly +easy to detach from the body, as the quality is so hard and stiff +that it separates from the flesh like the peel of a ripe orange. + +In a couple of hours, the hide had been detached in sections for +shields, and sufficient flesh was loaded upon the camel, together +with the vicious-looking head, which was secured by ropes upon +the saddle. We were en route for the camp, when we suddenly came +upon fresh elephant tracks, upon following which, we discovered, +after about an hour's march, the spoor of horses on the same +path. At once the truth flashed upon me that, although Abou Do +had promised to return direct home, he was somewhere in the +neighbourhood, and he and his two companions were disturbing the +country by hunting. I at once gave up the idea of following the +elephants, as, in all probability, these aggageers had pursued +them some hours ago. In a very bad humour I turned my horse's +head and took the direction for the Settite river. As we +descended from the hilly ground, after the ride of about four +miles, we arrived upon an extensive plain, upon which I noticed +a number of antelopes galloping as though disturbed; a few +moments later I observed three horsemen, a camel, and several men +on foot, steering in the same direction as ourselves for the +river, but arriving from the high ground upon which we had seen +the elephants. These were soon distinguished, and I rode towards +them with my people; they were the aggageers, with some of the +hippopotami hunters. + +Upon our arrival among them, they looked exceedingly sheepish, as +they were caught in the act. Suspended most carefully upon one +side of the camel, in a network of ropes, was a fine young +rhinoceros which they had caught, having hunted the mother until +she forsook the calf. Johann Schmidt had offered forty dollars +for any young animal of this species, for the Italian menageries, +therefore to the aggageers this was a prize of great value. I had +hardly directed my attention to the calf, when I noticed a rope +that was forcibly placed under the throat to support the heavy +head, the weight of which bearing upon the cord was evidently +producing strangulation. The tongue of the animal was protruding, +and the tail stiffened and curled convulsively above the back, +while a twitching of the hind legs, that presently stretched to +their full extent, persuaded me that the rhinoceros was in his +last gasp. As I looked intently at the animal, while my Tokrooris +abused Abou Do for having deceived us, I told the aggageers that +they had not gained much by their hunt, as the rhinoceros was +dead. For a moment Abou Do smiled grimly, and, quite unconscious +of the real fact, Suleiman replied, "It is worth forty dollars to +us." "Forty dollars for a dead rhinoceros calf!" I exclaimed; +"who is fool enough to give it?" + +Abou Do glanced at the rhinoceros; his expression changed; he +jumped from his horse, and, assisted by the other aggageers, he +made the camel kneel as quickly as possible, and they hastened to +unstrap the unfortunate little beast, which, upon being released +and laid upon its side, convulsively stretched out its limbs, and +lay a strangled rhinoceros. The aggageers gazed with dismay at +their departed prize, and, with superstitious fear, they +remounted their horses without uttering a word, and rode away; +they attributed the sudden death of the animal to the effect of +my "evil eye." We turned towards our camp. My Tokrooris were +delighted, and I heard them talking and laughing together upon +the subject, and remarking upon the extremely "bad eye" of their +master. + +On the rising of the sun next day we had struck our camp, and +were upon the march to Delladilla. On the way I shot a splendid +buck mehedehet (R. Ellipsyprimna), and we arrived at our old +quarters, finding no change except that elephants had visited +them in our absence, and our cleanly swept circus was covered +with the dung of a large herd. As this spot generally abounded +with game, I took a single-barrelled small rifle, while the men +were engaged in pitching the tent and arranging the camp, and +with Taher Noor as my only companion, I strolled through the +forest, expecting to obtain a shot at a nellut within a quarter +of a mile. I had walked about that distance, and had just entered +upon a small green glade, when I perceived, lying at full length +upon the sand, a large lion, who almost immediately sprang up, +and at the same moment received a bullet from my rifle as he +bounded beneath a bush and crouched among some withered grass. I +was unloaded, when, to my astonishment, Taher Noor immediately +drew his sword, and, with his shield in his left hand, he +advanced boldly towards the wounded lion. I reloaded as quickly +as possible, just as this reckless Hamran had arrived within +springing distance of the lion, who positively slunk away and +declined the fight; retreating into the thick thorns, it +disappeared before I could obtain a shot. Taher Noor explained, +that his object in advancing towards the lion was to attract its +attention; he had expected that it would have remained in a +crouching position until I should have reloaded; but he ran the +extreme risk of a charge, in which case he would have fared badly +with simple sword and shield. Being close to the tent, I +returned, and, in addition to my single-barrelled rifle, I took +my two Reillys No. 10, with Hassan and Hadji Ali. In company with +Taher Noor we searched throughout the bushes for the wounded +lion, but without success. I now determined to make a cast, +hoping that we might succeed in starting some other animal that +would give us a better chance. The ground was sandy but firm, +therefore we made no sound in walking, and, as the forest was +bounded upon two sides by the river, and separated from the main +land by a ravine, the fire that had cleared the country of grass +had spared this portion, which was an asylum for all kinds of +game, as it afforded pasturage and cover. We had not continued +our stroll for five minutes beyond the spot lately occupied by +the lion, when we suddenly came upon two bull buffaloes, who were +lying beneath a thick bush on the edge of a small glade: they +sprang up as we arrived, and started off. I made a quick shot as +they galloped across the narrow space, and dropped one apparently +dead with a Reilly No. 10. My Tokrooris were just preparing to +run in and cut the throat, as good Mussulmans, when the buffalo, +that was not twenty yards distant, suddenly sprang to his feet +and faced us. In another moment, with a short grunt, he +determined upon a charge, but hardly was he in his first bound, +when I fired the remaining barrel aimed at the point of the nose, +as this was elevated to such a degree that it would have been +useless to have fired at the forehead. He fell stone dead at the +shot; we threw some clods of earth at him, but this time there +was no mistake. Upon an examination of the body, we could only +find the marks of the first bullet that had passed through the +neck; there was no other hole in the skin, neither was there a +sign upon the head or horns that he had been shot; at length I +noticed blood issuing from the nose, and we found that the bullet +had entered the nostril; I inserted a ramrod as a probe, and we +cut to the extremity and found the bullet imbedded in the spine, +which was shattered to pieces in a portion of the neck. As a +souvenir of this very curious shot, I preserved the skull. My men +now flayed the buffalo and took a portion of the meat, but I +ordered them to leave the carcase as a bait for lions, with which +this neighbourhood abounded, although it was exceedingly +difficult to see them, as they were concealed in the dense covert +of nabbuk bush. I left the buffalo, and strolled through the +jungle towards the river. As I was leisurely walking through +alternate narrow glades and thick jungle, I heard a noise that +sounded like the deep snort of the hippopotamus. I approached the +steep bank of the river, and crept carefully to the edge, +expecting to see the hippo as I peered over the brink. Instead of +the hippopotamus, a fine lion and lioness were lying on the sand +about sixty yards to my left, at the foot of the bank. At the +same instant they obtained our wind, and sprang up the high bank +into the thick jungle, without giving me a better chance than a +quick shot through a bush as they were disappearing. + +I now returned home, determined to circumvent the lions if +possible in this very difficult country. That night we were +serenaded by the roaring of these animals in all directions, one +of them having visited our camp, around which we discovered his +footprints on the following morning. I accordingly took Taher +Noor, with Hadji Ali and Hassan, two of my trusty Tokrooris, and +went straight to the spot where I had left the carcase of the +buffalo. As I had expected, nothing remained--not even a bone: +the ground was much trampled, and tracks of lions were upon the +sand; but the body of the buffalo had been dragged into the +thorny jungle. I was determined, if possible, to get a shot, +therefore I followed carefully the track left by the carcase, +which had formed a path in the withered grass. Unfortunately the +lions had dragged the buffalo down wind; therefore, after I had +arrived within the thick nabbuk and high grass, I came to the +conclusion that my only chance would be to make a long circuit, +and to creep up wind through the thorns, until I should be +advised by my nose of the position of the carcase, which would by +this time lie in a state of putrefaction, and the lions would +most probably be with the body. Accordingly, I struck off to my +left, and continuing straight forward for some hundred yards, I +again struck into the thick jungle, and came round to the wind. +Success depended on extreme caution, therefore I advised my three +men to keep close behind me with the spare rifles, as I carried +my single-barrelled Beattie. This rifle was extremely accurate, +therefore I had chosen it for this close work, when I expected to +get a shot at the eye or forehead of a lion crouching in the +bush. Softly and with difficulty I crept forward, followed +closely by my men; through the high withered grass, beneath the +dense green nabbuk bushes; peering through the thick covert, with +the nerves turned up to full pitch, and the finger on the trigger +ready for any emergency. We had thus advanced for about half an +hour, during which I frequently applied my nose to within a foot +of the ground to catch the scent, when a sudden puff of wind +brought the unmistakeable smell of decomposing flesh. For the +moment I halted, and, looking round to my men, I made a sign that +we were near to the carcase, and that they were to be ready with +the rifles. Again I crept gently forward, bending, and sometimes +crawling, beneath the thorns to avoid the slightest noise. As I +approached, the scent became stronger, until I at length felt +that I must be close to the cause. This was highly exciting. +Fully prepared for a quick shot, I stealthily crept on. A +tremendous roar in the dense thorns within a few feet of me +suddenly brought my rifle to the shoulder: almost in the same +instant I observed the three-quarter figure of either a lion or +a lioness within three yards of me, on the other side of the +bush, under which I had been creeping--the foliage concealed the +head, but I could almost have touched the shoulder with my rifle. +Much depended upon the bullet; and I fired exactly through the +shoulder. Another tremendous roar! and a crash in the bushes as +the animal made a bound forward, was succeeded immediately by a +similar roar, as another lion took the exact position of the +last, and stood wondering at the report of the rifle, and seeking +for the cause of the intrusion. This was a grand lion with a +shaggy mane; but I was unloaded, keeping my eyes fixed on the +beast, while I stretched my hand back for a spare rifle; the lion +remained standing, but gazing up wind with his head raised, +snuffing in the air for a scent of the enemy. No rifle was put in +my hand. I looked back for an instant, and saw my Tokrooris +faltering about five yards behind me. I looked daggers at them, +gnashing my teeth and shaking my fist. They saw the lion, and +Taher Noor snatching a rifle from Hadji Ali, was just about to +bring it, when Hassan, ashamed, ran forward--the lion disappeared +at the same moment! Never was such a fine chance lost through the +indecision of the gun-bearers! I made a vow never to carry a +single-barrelled rifle again when hunting large game. If I had +had my dear little Fletcher 24, I should have nailed the lion to +a certainty. + +However, there was not much time for reflection--where was the +first lion? Some remains of the buffalo lay upon my right, and I +expected to find the lion most probably crouching in the thorns +somewhere near us. Having reloaded, I took one of my Reilly No. +10 rifles and listened attentively for a sound. Presently I heard +within a few yards a low growl. Taher Noor drew his sword, and, +with his shield before him, he searched for the lion, while I +crept forward towards the sound, which was again repeated. A low +roar, accompanied by a rush in the jungle, showed us a glimpse of +the lion, as he bounded off within ten or twelve yards: but I had +no chance to fire. Again the low growl was repeated, and upon +quietly creeping towards the spot, I saw a splendid animal +crouched upon the ground among the withered and broken grass. The +lioness lay dying with the bullet wound in the shoulder. +Occasionally, in her rage, she bit her own paw violently, and +then struck and clawed the ground. A pool of blood lay by her +side. She was about ten yards from us, and I instructed my men to +throw a clod of earth at her (there were no stones), to prove +whether she could rise, while I stood ready with the rifle. She +merely replied with a dull roar, and I terminated her misery by +a ball through the head. She was a beautiful animal; the patch of +the bullet was sticking in the wound; she was shot through both +shoulders, and as we were not far from the tent, I determined to +have her brought to camp upon a camel as an offering to my wife. +Accordingly I left my Tokrooris, while I went with Taher Noor to +fetch a camel. + +On our road through the thick jungle, I was startled by a rush +close to me: for the moment I thought it was a lion, but almost +at the same instant I saw a fine nellut dashing away before me, +and I killed it immediately with a bullet through the back of the +neck. This was great luck, and we now required two camels, as in +two shots I had killed a lioness and a nellut (A. Strepsiceros). + +We remained for some time at our delightful camp at Delladilla. +Every day, from sunrise to sunset, I was either on foot or in the +saddle, without rest, except upon Sundays, which I generally +passed at home, with the relaxation of fishing in the beautiful +river Settite. There was an immense quantity of large game, and +I had made a mixed bag of elephants, hippopotami, buffaloes, +rhinoceros, giraffes, and great numbers of the large antelopes. +Lions, although numerous, were exceedingly difficult to bag; +there was no chance but the extreme risk of creeping through the +thickest jungle. Upon two or three occasions I had shot them by +crawling into their very dens, where they had dragged their prey; +and I must acknowledge that they were much more frightened of me +than I was of them. I had generally obtained a most difficult and +unsatisfactory shot at close quarters; sometimes I rolled them +over with a mortal wound, and they disappeared to die in +impenetrable jungle; but at all times fortune was on my side. On +moonlight nights I generally lay in wait for these animals with +great patience; sometimes I shot hippopotami, and used a +hind-quarter as a bait for lions, while I watched in ambush at +about twenty yards distance; but the hyaenas generally appeared +like evil spirits, and dragged away the bait before the lions had +a chance. I never fired at these scavengers, as they are most +useful creatures, and are contemptible as game. My Arabs had made +their fortune, as I had given them all the meat of the various +animals, which they dried and transported to Geera, together with +fat, hides, &c. It would be wearying to enumerate the happy +hunting-days passed throughout this country. We were never ill +for a moment; although the thermometer was seldom below 88 +degrees during the day, the country was healthy, as it was +intensely dry, and therefore free from malaria: at night the +thermometer averaged 70 degrees, which was a delightful +temperature for those who exist in the open air. + +As our camp was full of meat, either dried or in the process of +drying in festoons upon the trees, we had been a great attraction +to the beasts of prey, who constantly prowled around our thorn +fence during the night. One night in particular a lion attempted +to enter, but had been repulsed by the Tokrooris, who pelted him +with firebrands; my people woke me up and begged me to shoot him, +but, as it was perfectly impossible to fire correctly through the +hedge of thorns, I refused to be disturbed, but I promised to +hunt for him on the following day. Throughout the entire night +the lion prowled around the camp, growling and uttering his +peculiar guttural sigh. Not one of my people slept, as they +declared he would bound into the camp and take somebody, unless +they kept up the watch-fires and drove him away with brands. The +next day, before sunrise, I called Hassan and Hadji Ali, whom I +lectured severely upon their cowardice on a former occasion, and +I received their promise to follow me to death. I entrusted them +with my two Reillys No. 10; and with my little Fletcher in hand, +I determined to spend the whole day in searching every thicket of +the forest for lions, as I felt convinced that the animal that +had disturbed us during the night was concealed somewhere within +the neighbouring jungle. + +The whole day passed fruitlessly; I had crept through the +thickest thorns in vain; having abundance of meat, I had refused +the most tempting shots at buffaloes and large antelopes, as I +had devoted myself exclusively to lions. I was much disappointed, +as the evening had arrived without a shot having been fired, and +as the sun had nearly set, I wandered slowly towards home. +Passing through alternate open glades of a few yards width, +hemmed in on all sides by thick jungle, I was carelessly carrying +my rifle upon my shoulder, as I pushed my way through the +opposing thorns, when a sudden roar, just before me, at once +brought the rifle upon full cock, and I saw a magnificent lion +standing in the middle of the glade, about ten yards from me: he +had been lying on the ground, and had started to his feet upon +hearing me approach through the jungle. For an instant he stood +in an attitude of attention, as we were hardly visible; but at +the same moment I took a quick but sure shot with the little +Fletcher. He gave a convulsive bound, but rolled over backwards: +before he could recover himself, I fired the left-hand barrel. It +was a glorious sight. I had advanced a few steps into the glade, +and Hassan had quickly handed me a spare rifle, while Taher Noor +stood by me sword in hand. The lion in the greatest fury, with +his shaggy mane bristled in the air, roared with death-like +growls, as open-mouthed he endeavoured to charge upon us; but he +dragged his hind-quarters upon the ground, and I saw immediately +that the little Fletcher had broken his spine. In his tremendous +exertions to attack, he rolled over and over, gnashing his +horrible jaws, and tearing holes in the sandy ground at each blow +of his tremendous paws, that would have crushed a man's skull +like an egg-shell. Seeing that he was hors de combat, I took it +coolly, as it was already dusk, and the lion having rolled into +a dark and thick bush, I thought it would be advisable to defer +the final attack, as he would be dead before morning. We were not +ten minutes' walk from the camp, at which we quickly arrived, and +my men greatly rejoiced at the discomfiture of their enemy, as +they were convinced that he was the same lion that had attempted +to enter the zareeba. + +On the following morning, before sunrise, I started with nearly +all my people and a powerful camel, with the intention of +bringing the lion home entire. I rode my horse Tetel, who had +frequently shown great courage, and I wished to prove whether he +would advance to the body of a lion. + +Upon arrival near the spot which we supposed to have been the +scene of the encounter, we were rather puzzled, as there was +nothing to distinguish the locality; one place exactly resembled +another, as the country was flat and sandy, interspersed with +thick jungle of green nabbuk; we accordingly spread out to beat +for the lion. Presently Hadji Ali cried out: "There he lies +dead!" and I immediately rode to the spot, together with the +people. A tremendous roar greeted us, as the lion started to his +fore-feet, and with his beautiful mane erect, and his great hazel +eyes flashing fire, he gave a succession of deep short roars, and +challenged us to fight. This was a grand picture; he looked like +a true lord of the forest, but I pitied the poor brute, as he was +helpless, and, although his spirit was game to the last, his +strength was paralysed by a broken back. + +It was a glorious opportunity for the horse. At the first +unexpected roar, the camel had bolted with its rider; the horse +had for a moment started on one side, and the men had scattered; +but in an instant I had reined Tetel up, and I now rode straight +towards the lion, who courted the encounter about twenty paces +distant. I halted exactly opposite the noble-looking beast, who, +seeing me in advance of the party, increased his rage, and +growled deeply, fixing his glance upon the horse. I now patted +Tetel on the neck, and spoke to him coaxingly; he gazed intently +at the lion, erected his mane, and snorted, but showed no signs +of retreat. "Bravo! old boy!" I said, and, encouraging him by +caressing his neck with my hand, I touched his flank gently with +my heel; I let him just feel my hand upon the rein, and with a +"Come along, old lad," Tetel slowly but resolutely advanced step +by step towards the infuriated lion, that greeted him with +continued growls. The horse several times snorted loudly, and +stared fixedly at the terrible face before him; but as I +constantly patted and coaxed him, he did not refuse to advance. +I checked him when within about six yards from the lion. This +would have made a magnificent picture, as the horse, with +astounding courage, faced the lion at bay; both animals kept +their eyes fixed upon each other, the one beaming with rage, the +other with cool determination. This was enough--I dropped the +reins upon his neck; it was a signal that Tetel perfectly +understood, and he stood firm as a rock; for he knew that I was +about to fire. I took aim at the head of the glorious but +distressed lion, and a bullet from the little Fletcher dropped +him dead. Tetel never flinched at a shot. I now dismounted, and +having patted and coaxed the horse, I led him up to the body of +the lion, which I also patted, and then gave my hand to the horse +to smell. He snorted once or twice, and as I released my hold of +the reins, and left him entirely free, he slowly lowered his +head, and sniffed the mane of the dead lion: he then turned a few +paces upon one side, and commenced eating the withered grass +beneath the nabbuk bushes. My Arabs were perfectly delighted with +this extraordinary instance of courage exhibited by the horse. I +had known that the beast was disabled, but Tetel had advanced +boldly towards the angry jaws of a lion that appeared about to +spring. The camel was now brought to the spot and blindfolded, +while we endeavoured to secure the lion upon its back. As the +camel knelt, it required the united exertions of eight men, +including myself, to raise the ponderous animal, and to secure it +across the saddle. + +Although so active and cat-like in its movements, a full-grown +lion weighs about five hundred and fifty pounds. Having secured +it, we shortly arrived in camp; the coup d'oeil was beautiful, as +the camel entered the inclosure with the shaggy head and massive +paws of the dead lion hanging upon one flank, while the tail +nearly descended to the ground upon the opposite side. It was +laid at full length before my wife, to whom the claws were +dedicated as a trophy to be worn around the neck as a talisman. +Not only are the claws prized by the Arabs, but the moustache of +the lion is carefully preserved and sewn in a leather envelope, +to be worn as an amulet; such a charm is supposed to protect the +wearer from the attacks of wild animals. + +In all probability, this was the lion that was in the habit of +visiting our camp, as from that date, although the roars of such +animals were our nightly music, we were never afterwards visited +so closely. + +As game was plentiful, the lions were exceedingly fat, and we +preserved a large quantity of this for our lamps. When it was +boiled down it was well adapted for burning, as it remained +nearly liquid. + +We had a large supply of various kinds of fat, including that of +elephants, hippopotami, lions, and rhinoceros; but our stock of +soap was exhausted, therefore I determined to convert a quantity +of our grease into that very necessary article. + +Soap-boiling is not so easy as may be imagined; it requires not +only much attention, but the quality is dependent upon the proper +mixture of the alkalis. Sixty parts of potash and forty of lime +are, I believe, the proportions for common soap. I had neither +lime nor potash, but I shortly procured both. The hegleek tree +(Balanites Egyptiaca) was extremely rich in potash; therefore I +burned a large quantity, and made a strong ley with the ashes; +this I concentrated by boiling. There was no limestone; but the +river produced a plentiful supply of large oyster-shells, that, +if burned, would yield excellent lime. Accordingly I constructed +a kiln, with the assistance of the white ants. The country was +infested with these creatures, which had erected their dwellings +in all directions; these were cones from six to ten feet high, +formed of clay so thoroughly cemented by a glutinous preparation +of the insects, that it was harder than sun-baked brick. I +selected an egg-shaped hill, and cut off the top, exactly as we +take off the slice from an egg. My Tokrooris then worked hard, +and with a hoe and their lances, they hollowed it out to the +base, in spite of the attacks of the ants, which punished the +legs of the intruders considerably. I now made a draught-hole +from the outside base, at right angles with the bottom of the +hollow cone. My kiln was perfect. I loaded it with wood, upon +which I piled about six bushels of oyster-shells, which I then +covered with fuel, and kept it burning for twenty-four hours. +This produced excellent lime, and I commenced my soap-boiling. We +possessed an immense copper pot of Egyptian manufacture, in +addition to a large and deep copper basin called a "teshti." +These would contain about ten gallons. The ley having been boiled +down to great strength, I added a quantity of lime, and the +necessary fat. It required ten hours' boiling, combined with +careful management of the fire, as it would frequently ascend +like foam, and overflow the edge of the utensils. However, at +length, having been constantly stirred, it turned to soap. Before +it became cold, I formed it into cakes and balls with my hands, +and the result of the manufacture was a weight of about forty +pounds of most excellent soap, of a very sporting description, +"Savon a la bete feroce." We thus washed with rhinoceros soap; +our lamp was trimmed with oil of lions; our butter for cooking +purposes was the fat of hippopotami, while our pomade was made +from the marrow of buffaloes and antelopes, scented with the +blossoms of mimosas. We were entirely independent, as our whole +party had subsisted upon the produce of the rod and the rifle. + +We were now destined to be deprived of two members of the party. +Mahomet had become simply unbearable, and he was so impertinent +that I was obliged to take a thin cane from one of the Arabs and +administer a little physical advice. An evil spirit possessed the +man, and he bolted off with some of the camel men who were +returning to Geera with dried meat.* + + * Some months afterwards he found his way to Khartoum, + where he was imprisoned by the Governor for having + deserted. He subsequently engaged himself as a soldier + in a slave-hunting expedition on the White Nile; and + some years later, on our return from the Albert N'yanza, + we met him in Shooa, on 3 degrees north latitude. He + had repented--hardships and discipline had effected a + change--and, like the prodigal son, he returned. I + forgave him, and took him with us to Khartoum, where + we left him a sadder but a wiser man. He had many near + relations during his long journey, all of whom had + stolen some souvenir of their cousin, and left him + almost naked. He also met Achmet, his "mothers brother's + cousin's sister's mother's son," who turned up after + some years at Gondokoro as a slave-hunter; he had + joined an expedition, and, like all other blackguards, + he had chosen the White Nile regions for his career. + He was the proprietor of twenty slaves, he had assisted + in the murder of a number of unfortunate negroes, and + he was a prosperous and respectable individual. + +Our great loss was Barrake. She had persisted in eating the fruit +of the hegleek, although she had suffered from dysentery upon +several occasions. She was at length attacked with congestion of +the liver. My wife took the greatest care of her, and for weeks +she had given her the entire produce of the goats, hoping that +milk would keep up her strength; but she died after great +suffering, and we buried the poor creature, and moved our camp. + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +WE REACH THE ROYAN. + +HAVING explored the Settite into the gorge of the mountain chain +of Abyssinia, we now turned due south from our camp of +Delladilla, and at a distance of twelve miles we reached the +river Royan. The intervening country was the high and flat +table-land of rich soil, that characterises the course of the +Settite and Atbara rivers; this land was covered with hegleek +trees of considerable size, and the descent to the Royan was +through a valley, torn and washed by the rains, similar in +appearance to that of the Settite, but upon a small scale, as the +entire width did not exceed a mile. + +Descending the rugged ground, we arrived at the margin of the +river. At this season (February) the bed was perfectly dry sand, +about ninety yards from bank to bank, and the high-water mark +upon the perpendicular sides was a little above nine feet deep. +The inclination was extremely rapid: thus the Royan during the +rainy season must be a most frightful torrent, that supplies a +large body of water to the Settite, but which runs dry almost +immediately upon the cessation of the rains. + +We descended the bank in a spot that had been broken down by +elephants, and continued our course up stream along the sandy +bed, which formed an excellent road. The surface was imprinted +with the footsteps of every variety of game, and numerous holes +about two feet deep had been dug in the sand by the antelopes and +baboons to procure water. Great numbers of the oterop, a small +reddish-brown antelope without horns (Calotragus Montanus) were +drinking at these little watering-places, and did not appear to +heed us. We disturbed many nellut and tetel upon the banks, and +after having marched about four miles along the river's bed, we +halted at a beautiful open forest of large trees at the junction +of Hor Mai Gubba. This was a considerable torrent, which is +tributary to the Royan; at this spot it had cut through a white +sandstone cliff, about eighty feet perpendicular: thus upon +either side it was walled in. The word Gubba is Abyssinian for +the nabbuk, therefore the torrent was the Nabbuk River: this +flowed past the village of Mai Gubba, which is the head-quarters +of Mek Nimmur, from which we were not twenty-five miles distant. +We camped in a forest of the largest trees that we had as yet +seen in Africa, and as we had observed the fresh tracks of +horses, on the sand, some of my Arabs went in search of the +aggageers of Taher Sheriff's party, whom they had expected to +meet at this point. While they were gone, I took a few men to +beat the low jungle within the forest for francolin partridge, +numbers of which I had seen running through the covert. I went up +the dry bed of the river at the junction of the Hor Gubba, while +they drove towards me, and I was compelled to fire as fast as I +could load, as these beautiful birds flew across the ravine. I +shot five brace almost immediately. There is no better game bird +than the francolin: the flesh is white, and of a most delicate +and rich flavour. My shots had attracted the aggageers, and +shortly after my return to camp they arrived with my Arabs, as +they had been stationed on the opposite side of the Royan in a +forest within a quarter of a mile of us. Taher Sheriff was +delighted to see us free from the company of Abou Do. His party +had killed several elephants, and had captured two young ones; +also, two young rhinoceroses, three giraffes, and several young +antelopes; these were to be sold to Johann Schmidt, who +contracted to supply the Italian agent at Cassala. I agreed to +have a long day's hunt with Taher Sheriff; we were to start +before sunrise, as he wished to ride to a spot about twenty-five +miles distant, up the course of the Royan, that was a favourite +resort for elephants. + +That evening we had a delicious dinner of francolin partridges. +This species is rather larger than the French partridge: it is +dark brown, mottled with black feathers, with a red mark around +the eye, and double spurs. + +There was a small but deep pool of water in the bed of the river, +beneath the high bank about two hundred paces from our camp; this +was a mere hole of about twenty feet square, and I expected that +large game might come to drink during the night. Accordingly, I +determined to watch for elephants, as their tracks were numerous +throughout the bed of the river. My wife and two gun-bearers +accompanied me, and we sat behind an immense tree that grew on +the bank, exactly about the drinking place. I watched for hours, +until I fell asleep, as did my men likewise: my wife alone was +awake, and a sudden tug at my sleeve attracted my attention. The +moon was bright, and she had heard a noise upon the branches of +the tree above us: there were no leaves, therefore I quickly +observed some large animal upon a thick bough. My Tokrooris had +awoke, and they declared it to be a baboon. I knew this to be +impossible, as the baboon is never solitary, and I was just +preparing to fire, when down jumped a large leopard within a few +feet of us, and vanished before I had time to shoot. It must have +winded our party, and quietly ascended the tree to reconnoitre. +Nothing but hyaenas came to the pool, therefore we returned to +camp. + +According to my agreement, I went to the aggageers' camp at 5 +A.M. with Hadji Ali and Hassan, both mounted on my two horses, +Aggahr and Gazelle, while I rode Tetel. Taher Sheriff requested +me not to shoot at anything, as the shots might alarm and scare +away elephants; therefore I merely carried my little Fletcher, in +case of meeting the Base, who hunted in this country. The +aggageers mounted their horses; each man carried an empty +water-skin slung to his saddle, to be filled at the river should +it be necessary to quit its banks. We started along the upward +course of the Royan. + +For seven hours we rode, sometimes along the bed of the river +between lofty overhanging rocks, or through borders of fine +forest-trees; at other times we cut off a bend of the stream, and +rode for some miles through beautiful country diversified with +hills, and abounding in enormous baobab-trees (Adansonia +digitata). At length we entered the mountains at the foot of the +great chain. Here the views were superb. The Royan was no longer +a stream of ninety or a hundred yards in width, but it was +reduced to a simple mountain torrent about forty yards across, +blocked in many places by masses of rock, while at others it had +formed broad pools, all of which were now perfectly dry, and +exhibited a bed of glaring sand. Numerous mountain ravines joined +the main channel, and as the inclination was extremely rapid, +there could be little doubt that the violent storms of the rainy +season, descending from the great chain of mountains, would, by +concentrating in the Royan, suddenly give birth to an impetuous +torrent, that would materially affect the volume of the Settite. +The entire country bore witness to the effect of violent rains, +as the surface was torn and water-worn. + +We had ridden nearly thirty miles, having seen large quantities +of game, including antelopes, buffaloes, giraffes, and +rhinoceroses, none of which we had hunted, as we were in search +of elephants. This was the country where the aggageers had +expected, without fail, to find their game. + +They now turned away from the Royan, and descended a sandy valley +at the foot of the mountains, the bottom of which appeared to +have been overflowed during the wet season. Here were large +strips of forest, and numerous sandy watercourses, along the dry +bed of which we quickly discovered the deep tracks of elephants. +They had been digging fresh holes in the sand in search of water, +in which welcome basins we found a good supply; we dismounted, +and rested the horses for half an hour, while the hunters +followed up the tracks on the bed of the stream. Upon their +return, they reported the elephants as having wandered off upon +the rocky ground, that rendered further tracking impossible. We +accordingly remounted, and, upon arrival at the spot where they +had lost the tracks, we continued along the bed of the stream. We +had ridden about a mile, and were beginning to despair, when +suddenly we turned a sharp angle in the watercourse, and Taher +Sheriff, who was leading, immediately reined in his horse, and +backed him towards the party. I followed his example, and we were +at once concealed by the sharp bend of the river. He now +whispered, that a bull elephant was drinking from a hole it had +scooped in the sand, not far round the corner. Without the +slightest confusion, the hunters at once fell quietly into their +respective places, Taher Sheriff leading, while I followed +closely in the line, with my Tokrooris bringing up the rear; we +were a party of seven horses. + +Upon turning the corner, we at once perceived the elephant, that +was still drinking. It was a fine bull; the enormous ears were +thrown forward, as the head was lowered in the act of drawing up +the water through the trunk; these shaded the eyes, and, with the +wind favourable, we advanced noiselessly upon the sand to within +twenty yards before we were perceived. The elephant then threw up +its head, and, with the ears flapping forward, it raised its +trunk for an instant, and then slowly, but easily, ascended the +steep bank, and retreated. The aggageers now halted for about a +minute to confer together, and then followed in their original +order up the crumbled bank. We were now on most unfavourable +ground; the fire that had cleared the country we had hitherto +traversed had been stopped by the bed of the torrent. We were +thus plunged at once into withered grass above our heads, unless +we stood in the stirrups; the ground was strewed with fragments +of rock, and altogether it was ill-adapted for riding. However, +Taher Sheriff broke into a trot, followed by the entire party, as +the elephant was not in sight. We ascended a hill, and when near +the summit, we perceived the elephant about eighty yards ahead. +It was looking behind during its retreat, by swinging its huge +head from side to side, and upon seeing us approach, it turned +suddenly round and halted. "Be ready, and take care of the +rocks!" said Taher Sheriff, as I rode forward by his side. Hardly +had he uttered these words of caution, when the bull gave a +vicious jerk with its head, and with a shrill scream it charged +down upon us with the greatest fury. Away we all went, helter +skelter, through the dry grass, which whistled in my ears, over +the hidden rocks, at full gallop, with the elephant tearing after +us for about a hundred and eighty yards at a tremendous pace. +Tetel was a sure-footed horse, and, being unshod, he never +slipped upon the stones. Thus, as we all scattered in different +directions, the elephant became confused, and relinquished the +chase; it had been very near me at one time, and in such ground +I was not sorry when it gave up the hunt. We now quickly united, +and again followed the elephant, that had once more retreated. +Advancing at a canter, we shortly came in view. Upon seeing the +horses, the bull deliberately entered a stronghold composed of +rocky and uneven ground, in the clefts of which grew thinly a few +leafless trees, the thickness of a man's leg. It then turned +boldly towards us, and stood determinedly at bay. + +Now came the tug of war! Taher Sheriff came close to me and +said, "You had better shoot the elephant, as we shall have great +difficulty in this rocky ground:" this I declined, as I wished to +end the fight as it had been commenced, with the sword; and I +proposed that he should endeavour to drive the animal to more +favourable ground. "Never mind," replied Taher, "Inshallah +(please God) he shall not beat us." He now advised me to keep as +close to him as possible, and to look sharp for a charge. + +The elephant stood facing us like a statue; it did not move a +muscle beyond a quick and restless action of the eyes, that were +watching all sides. Taher Sheriff and his youngest brother +Ibrahim now separated, and each took opposite sides of the +elephant, and then joined each other about twenty yards behind +it; I accompanied them, until Taher advised me to keep about the +same distance upon the left flank. My Tokrooris kept apart from +the scene, as they were not required. In front of the elephant +were two aggageers, one of whom was the renowned Roder Sheriff, +with the withered arm. All being ready for action, Roder now rode +slowly towards the head of the cunning old bull, who was quietly +awaiting an opportunity to make certain of some one who might +give him a good chance. + +Roder Sheriff rode a bay mare, that, having been thoroughly +trained to these encounters, was perfect at her work. Slowly and +coolly she advanced towards her wary antagonist, until within +about eight or nine yards of the elephant's head; the creature +never moved, and the mise en scene was beautiful; not a word was +spoken, and we kept our places amidst utter stillness, which was +at length broken by a snort from the mare, who gazed intently at +the elephant, as though watching for the moment of attack. + +One more pace forward, and Roder sat coolly upon his mare, with +his eyes fixed upon those of the elephant. For an instant I saw +the white of the eye nearest to me "Look out, Roder! he's +coming!" I exclaimed. With a shrill scream, the elephant dashed +upon him like an avalanche! + +Round went the mare as though upon a pivot, and away, over rocks +and stones, flying like a gazelle, with the monkey-like form of +little Roder Sheriff leaning forward, and looking over his left +shoulder as the elephant rushed after him. + +For a moment I thought he must be caught. Had the mare stumbled, +all were lost; but she gained in the race after a few quick +bounding strides, and Roder, still looking behind him, kept his +distance so close to the elephant, that its outstretched trunk +was within a few feet of the mare's tail. + +Taher Sheriff and his brother Ibrahim swept down like falcons in +the rear. In full speed they dexterously avoided the trees, until +they arrived upon open ground, when they dashed up close to the +hind-quarters of the furious elephant, who, maddened with the +excitement, heeded nothing but Roder and his mare, that were +almost within its grasp. When close to the tail of the elephant, +Taher Sheriff's sword flashed from its sheath, as grasping his +trusty blade he leapt nimbly to the ground, while Ibrahim caught +the reins of his horse; two or three bounds on foot, with the +sword clutched in both hands, and he was close behind the +elephant; a bright glance shone like lightning, as the sun struck +upon the descending steel; this was followed by a dull crack, as +the sword cut through skin and sinews, and settled deep in the +bone, about twelve inches above the foot. At the next stride, the +elephant halted dead short in the midst of its tremendous charge. +Taher had jumped quickly on one side, and had vaulted into the +saddle with his naked sword in hand. At the same moment, Roder, +who had led the chase, turned sharp round, and again faced the +elephant as before; stooping quickly from the saddle, he picked +up from the ground a handful of dirt, which he threw into the +face of the vicious-looking animal, that once more attempted to +rush upon him. It was impossible! the foot was dislocated, and +turned up in front like an old shoe. In an instant Taher was once +more on foot, and again the sharp sword slashed the remaining +leg. The great bull elephant could not move! the first cut with +the sword had utterly disabled it; the second was its death blow; +the arteries of the leg were divided, and the blood spouted in +jets from the wounds. I wished to terminate its misery by a +bullet behind the ear, but Taher Sheriff begged me not to fire, +as the elephant would quickly bleed to death without pain, and an +unnecessary shot might attract the Base, who would steal the +flesh and ivory during our absence. We were obliged to return +immediately to our far distant camp, and the hunters resolved to +accompany their camels to the spot upon the following day. We +turned our horses' heads, and rode direct towards home, which we +did not reach until nearly midnight, having ridden upwards of +sixty miles during the day. + +The hunting of Taher Sheriff and his brothers was superlatively +beautiful; with an immense amount of dash, there was a cool, +sportsman-like manner in their mode of attack, that far excelled +the impetuous and reckless onset of Abou Do; it was difficult to +decide which to admire the most, whether the coolness and courage +of him who led the elephant, or the extraordinary skill and +activity of the aggahr who dealt the fatal blow. + +On the following day, the hunters started to the dead elephant +with camels and sacks, but they returned at night thoroughly +disgusted; the nimble Base had been before them, most probably +attracted to the carcase by the cloud of vultures that had +gathered in the air. Nothing remained but the bones and skull of +the elephant, the flesh and the ivory had been stolen. The tracks +of a great number of men were left upon the ground, and the +aggageers were fortunate to return without an attack from +overwhelming numbers. + +After hunting and exploring for some days in this neighbourhood, +I determined to follow the bed of the Royan to its junction with +the Settite. We started at daybreak, and after a long march along +the sandy bed, hemmed in by high banks, or by precipitous cliffs +of sandstone, we arrived at the junction; this was a curious and +frightful spot during the rainy season. The entire course of the +Royan was extremely rapid, but at this extremity it entered a +rocky pass between two hills, and leapt in a succession of grand +falls into a circular basin of about four hundred yards diameter. +This peculiar basin was surrounded by high cliffs, covered with +trees; to the left was an island formed by a rock about sixty +feet high; at the foot was a deep and narrow gorge through which +the Settite river made its exit from the circle. This large river +entered the basin through a rocky gap, at right angles with the +rush of water from the great falls of the Royan, and as both +streams issued from gorges which accelerated their velocity to +the highest degree, their junction formed a tremendous whirlpool: +thus, the basin which was now dry, with the exception of the +single contracted stream of the Settite, was in the rainy season +a most frightful scene of giddy waters. The sides of this basin +were, for about fifty feet from the bottom, sheeted with white +sand that had been left there by the centrifugal force of the +revolving waters; the funnel-shaped reservoir had its greatest +depth beneath the mass of rock that formed a barrier before the +mouth of the exit. From the appearance of the high-water mark +upon the rock, it was easy to ascertain the approximate depth +when the flood was at its maximum. We pitched our camp on the +slope above the basin, and for several days I explored the bed of +the river, which was exceedingly interesting at this dry season, +when all the secrets of its depths were exposed. In many places, +the rocks that choked its bed for a depth of thirty and forty +feet in the narrow passes, had been worked into caverns by the +constant attrition of the rolling pebbles. In one portion of the +river, the bottom was almost smooth, as though it had been paved +with flagstones; this was formed by a calcareous sediment from +the water, which had hardened into stone; in some places this +natural pavement had been broken up into large slabs by the force +of the current, where it had been undermined. This cement +appeared to be the same that had formed the banks of +conglomerate, which in some places walled in the river for a +depth of ten or fifteen feet, with a concrete of rounded pebbles +of all sizes from a nutmeg to a thirty-two pound shot. + +I fired the grass on the west bank of the Royan, and the blaze +extended with such rapidity, that in a few hours many miles of +country were entirely cleared. On the following morning, the +country looked as though covered with a pall of black velvet. + +To my astonishment there were the fresh tracks of a rhinoceros +within a quarter of a mile of the camp: this animal must have +concealed itself in the bed of the Royan during the fire, and had +wandered forth when it had passed. I followed up the tracks with +Bacheet and two of my Tookrooris. In less than half a mile from +the spot, I found it lying down behind a bush, and creeping under +cover of an ant-hill, I shot it through the shoulder with a +Reilly No. 10; it immediately galloped off, but after a run of a +couple of hundred yards it lay down on the edge of thick thorny +jungle that bordered the margin of the Royan. I waited, in the +expectation that it would shortly die, but it suddenly rose, and +walked slowly into the thorns. Determined to cut off its retreat, +I pushed through the bushes, intending to reach the dry bed of +the Royan and shoot the rhinoceros as it crossed from the narrow +belt of the jungle, into which it had retreated; but I had hardly +reached half way, when I heard a sound in the bush upon my right, +and I saw the wounded beast coming straight for our position, but +evidently unconscious of our presence, as we were to leeward. I +immediately crouched down, as did my men likewise, lest the +animal should observe us. Slowly, but surely, it came on exactly +towards us, until it was at last so near as to be unpleasant: I +looked behind me, and I saw by the expression of my men that they +were thinking of retreat. I merely shook my fist, and frowned at +them to give them confidence, and I waited patiently for my +opportunity. It was becoming too ridiculous; the rhinoceros was +within five or six yards, and was slowly but steadily advancing +direct upon us. At the next step that he made, I raised my rifle +gently to my shoulder, and whistled sharply: in an instant it +tossed its head up, and seeing nothing in front, as my clothes +matched with the leafless bushes, it turned its head to the left, +and I immediately pulled the trigger. It fell as though smitten +by a sledge hammer, and it lay struggling on the ground. Bacheet +sprang forward, and with an Arab sword he cut the hamstring of +one leg. To the astonishment of us all, the rhinoceros jumped up, +and on three legs it sprang quickly round and charged Bacheet, +who skipped into the bushes, while I ran alongside the rhinoceros +as it attempted to follow him, and, with Fletcher No. 24, I fired +through the shoulder, by placing the muzzle within a yard of the +animal. It fell dead to this shot, which was another feather in +the cap of the good little rifle. The skull of the rhinoceros is +very curiously shaped; I had fired for the temple, and had struck +the exact point at which I had aimed, but, instead of hitting the +brain, the bullet had smashed the joint of the jaw, in which it +stuck fast. I never have been able to understand why that +powerful rifle was thus baffled, unless there had been some error +in the charge of powder. This rhinoceros had no ears, they had +been bitten off close to the head by another of the same species, +while fighting; this mutilation is by no means uncommon. + +From this point I traversed the country in all directions; upon +one occasion I took a large supply of water, and penetrated into +the very heart of the Base, half way between the Settite and the +river Gash or Mareb, near the base of the mountain chain; but, +although the redoubtable natives were occasionally seen, they +were as shy as wild animals, and we could not approach them. + +Having explored the entire country, and enjoyed myself +thoroughly, I was now determined to pay our promised visit to Mek +Nimmur. Since our departure from the Egyptian territory, his +country had been invaded by a large force, according to orders +sent from the Governor-General of the Soudan. Mek Nimmur as usual +retreated to the mountains, but Mai Gubba and a number of his +villages were utterly destroyed by the Egyptians. He would, under +these circumstances, be doubly suspicious of strangers. + +My camel-men had constantly brought me the news on their return +from Geera with corn,* and they considered that it was unsafe to +visit Mek Nimmur after his defeat, as he might believe me to be +a spy from the Egyptians; he was a great friend of Theodorus, +king of Abyssinia, and as at that time he was on good terms with +the English, I saw no reason to avoid his country. + + * Among other news I was glad to hear that my patient + Jali could walk without difficulty. + +We arrived at Ombrega, but, instead of camping among the thick +jungle as formerly, we bivouacked under four splendid tamarind +trees that formed a clump among the rocks on the left bank of the +river, and which shaded a portion of its sandy bed; this was a +delightful resting-place. We were now only one day from Geera, +and we sent a messenger to the sheik of the Hamrans, who shortly +returned with a young girl of about seventeen as a corn-grinder +in the place of Barrake; she was hired from her owner at a dollar +per month. + +My camel-men had determined not to proceed to Mek Nimmur's +country, as they were afraid that their camels might be stolen by +his people; they therefore came to me one evening, and coolly +declared that they should return to Geera, as it would be folly +to tempt Mek Nimmur. It was in vain that I protested, and +reminded them that I had engaged them to accompany me throughout +the exploration. They were afraid of losing their camels, and +nothing would satisfy them; they declared that they required no +wages, as the meat and hide, &c. they had received were +sufficient for their services, but through Mek Nimmur's country +they were determined not to go. Taher Noor was the only man who +was willing, but he had no camel. We had constructed a fence of +thorns around our camp, in which the camels were now reposing, +and, as the argument had become hot, the Arabs expressed their +determination of starting homewards that very instant, and we +were to be left alone, unless they could persuade other men of +their tribe to join us with their animals. Accordingly, they at +once proceeded to saddle their camels for an immediate start. +Without saying another word, I quietly took my little Fletcher +rifle, and cocked both barrels as I sat within ten yards of the +exit from the camp. The men were just ready to depart, and +several had mounted their camels. "Good bye," I said; "give my +salaams to the sheik when you arrive at Geera; but the first +camel that passes the zareeba (camp) I shall shoot through the +head." They had heard the sharp click of the locks, and they +remembered the firing of the grass on a former occasion when I +had nearly burnt the camp;--not a camel moved. My Tokrooris and +Taher Noor now came forward as mediators, and begged me not to +shoot the camels. As I had the rifle pointed, I replied to this +demand conditionally, that the Arabs should dismount and unsaddle +immediately: this led to a parley, and I agreed to become +responsible for the value of the camels should they be stolen in +Mek Nimmur's country. The affair was settled. + +On March 16th, the day following this argument, as we were +sitting in the evening beneath our trees in the river's bed, I +suddenly heard the rattle of loose stones, and immediately after, +a man on a white hygeen appeared from the jungle on our side of +the river, followed quickly by a string of Arabs, all well +mounted, who silently followed in single file towards the ford. +They had not noticed us, as we were close to the high rocky bank +upon their left, in the deep shade of the tamarind trees. I +counted twenty-three; their shields and swords were slung upon +their hygeens, and, as their clothes were beautifully clean, they +had evidently started that morning from their homes. + +The leader had reached the ford without observing us, as in this +wild spot he had expected no one, and the whole party were +astonished and startled when I suddenly addressed them with a +loud "Salaam aleikum" (peace be with you). At first they did not +reply, but as I advanced alone, their leader also advanced from +his party, and we met half way. These were a troop of Mek +Nimmur's people on a foray. I quickly explained who I was, and I +invited him to come and drink coffee beneath the shade in our +camp. Taher Noor now joined us, and confidence having been +established, the leader ordered his party to cross the ford and +to unsaddle on the opposite side of the river, while he +accompanied me to our camp. At first he was rather suspicious, +but a present of a new tarboosh (cap), and a few articles of +trifling value, quickly reassured him, and he promised to be our +guide to Mek Nimmur in about a couple of days, upon his return +from a marauding expedition on the frontier; his party had +appointed to unite with a stronger force, and to make a razzia +upon the cattle of the Dabaina Arabs. + +During the night, the marauding party and their leader departed. + +There was no game at Ombrega, therefore I employed the interval +of two days in cleaning all the rifles, and in preparing for a +fresh expedition, as that of the Settite and Royan had been +completed. The short Tatham No.10 rifle carried a heavy cylinder, +instead of the original spherical ball. I had only fired two +shots with this rifle, and the recoil had been so tremendous, +owing to the heavy weight of the projectile, that I had +mistrusted the weapon; therefore, when the moment arrived to fire +off all the guns preparatory to cleaning, my good angel whispered +a providential warning, and I agreed to fire this particular +rifle by a long fishing-line attached to the trigger, while the +gun should be fastened to a tree. It blew all to pieces! The +locks were blown entirely away, and the stock was shattered into +fragments: nothing remained but the thick end near the +shoulder-plate. I had received a mysterious presentiment of this; +had I fired that rifle in the usual manner, I must have been +killed on the spot. The charge was five drachms, which was small +in proportion to the weight of the cylindrical projectile. This +may be a warning to such sportsmen who adopt new-fashioned +projectiles to old-fashioned rifles, that were proved with the +spherical bullet, which in weight and friction bears no +proportion to the heavy cylinder; nevertheless, this rifle should +not have burst, and the metal showed great inferiority, by +blowing into fragments instead of splitting. + +The leader of Mek Nimmur's party returned, as he had promised, to +be our guide. I extract from my journal, verbatim, my notes upon +that date. + +"March 19, 1862.--Started at 1.30 P.M., and halted at 5 P.M. +There is no water for about thirty miles; thus we had watered all +the animals at the usual hour (noon), and they will accordingly +endure until to-morrow evening. Upon ascending the slope of the +Settite valley, the country is an immense plain of fertile soil, +about two hundred feet above the river. While on the march, I +espied a camel wandering without an owner; this was inmmediately +secured as a lawful prize by our guide. This fellow's name is +Mahomet; he is, doubtlessly, an out-and-out scoundrel; he is +about five feet ten inches in height, and as thin as a live man +can be; he is so crafty-looking, and so wiry and eel-like, that +if I were to lock him up I should secure the key-hole, as he +looks capable of squeezing through anything. We slept on the +plain. + +"March 20.--Started at 5 A.M., and in three hours we reached the +chain of lofty wooded hills that bound the plain. In a march of +four hours from this point, we arrived at a hor, or ravine, when +we halted beneath a large tamarind tree, and pitched the tent +according to the instructions of our guide. The plain from the +Settite to the base of the hilly range that we had crossed, is +about twenty-two miles wide by forty in length, and, like all the +table-land in this country, it is well adapted for cotton +cultivation. Were the route secure through the Base country, +loaded camels might reach Cassala in six days and from thence to +Souakim. All this country is uninhabited. On arrival at the base +of the first bill, a grove of tamarinds shades a spring, at which +we watered our horses, but the water is impregnated with natron, +which is common throughout this country, and appears in many +places as an efflorescence on the surface of the ground. From the +spring at the eastern base of the hills, we ascended a rugged +pass, winding for some miles among ravines, and crossing elevated +shoulders of the range. Upon the summit we passed a rich mass of +both rose-coloured and white limestone, similar to that we had +seen at Geera; this was surrounded by basalt, and the presence of +limestone entirely mystifles my ideas of geology. Immense +quantities of very beautiful spar lay upon the surface in all +directions; some of this was perfectly white, and veined like an +agate--I believe it was white cornelian; other fragments, of +sizes equalling sixty or seventy pounds weight, were beautifully +green, suggesting the presence of copper. Large masses of +exquisite bloodstone, the size of a man's head, were exceedingly +numerous. Having crossed the hills, we descended to a rich and +park-like valley, covered with grass, and ornamented with fine +timber. Much dhurra was cultivated, and several villages were +passed, that had been plundered by the Egyptians during the +recent attack. This country must be exceedingly unhealthy during +the rainy season, as the soil is extremely rich, and the valleys, +surrounded by hills, would become swamps. From the Settite river, +at Ombrega, to our halting-place beneath the tamarind-tree, at +this spot, is about thirty-five miles south, 10 degrees east." + +Our camp was in a favourable locality, well shaded by large +trees, on the margin of a small stream; this was nearly dry at +this season, and the water was extremely bad, having a strong +taste of copper. I had remarked throughout the neighbourhood +unmistakeable evidences of the presence of this metal--the +surface of the rocks was in many places bright green, like +malachite, and, upon an exploration of the bed of the stream, I +found veins of a green substance in the perpendicular cliffs that +had been cut through by the torrent. These green veins passed +through a bed of reddish, hard rock, glistening with minute +crystals, which I believe to have been copper. There is no doubt +that much might be done were the mineral wealth of this country +thoroughly investigated. + +The day following our arrival was passed in receiving visits from +a number of Abyssinians, and the head men of Mek Nimmur. There +was a mixture of people, as many of the Jaleen Arabs who had +committed some crime in the Egyptian territory, had fled across +the country and joined the exiled chief of their tribe. +Altogether, the society in this district was not creme de la +creme, as Mek Nimmur's territory was an asylum for all the +blackguards of the adjoining countries, who were attracted by the +excitement and lawlessness of continual border warfare. The troop +that we had seen at Ombrega returned with a hundred and two head +of camels, that they had stolen from the west bank of the Atbara. +Mounted upon hygeens, Mek Nimmur's irregulars thought nothing of +marching sixty miles in one day; thus their attack and retreat +were equally sudden and unexpected. + +I had a quantity of rhinoceros hide in pieces of the size +required for shields; these were much prized in this fighting +country, and I presented them to a number of head men who had +honoured us with a visit. I begged them to guide two of my people +to the presence of Mek Nimmur, with a preliminary message. This +they promised to perform. Accordingly, I sent Taher Noor and +Bacheet on horseback, with a most polite message, accompanied +with my card in an envelope, and a small parcel, carefully +wrapped in four or five different papers; this contained a very +beautiful Persian lance-head, of polished steel inlaid with gold, +that I had formerly purchased at Constantinople. + +During their absence, we were inundated with visitors, the +Abyssinians, in their tight pantaloons, contrasting strongly with +the loosely-clad Arabs. In about an hour, my messengers returned, +accompanied by two men on horseback, with a hospitable message +fronm Mek Nimmur, and an invitation to pay him a visit at his own +residence. I had some trifling present ready for everybody of +note, and, as Taher Noor and my people had already explained all +they knew concerning us, Mek Nimmur's suspicions had entirely +vanished. + +As we were conversing with Mek Nimmur's messengers through the +medium of Taher Noor, who knew their language, our attention was +attracted by the arrival of a tremendous swell who at a distance +I thought must be Mek Nimmur himself. A snow-white mule carried +an equally snow-white person, whose tight white pantaloons looked +as though he had forgotten his trousers, and had mounted in his +drawers. He carried a large umbrella to shade his complexion; a +pair of handsome silver-mounted pistols were arranged upon his +saddle, and a silver-hilted curved sword, of the peculiar +Abyssinian form, hung by his side. This grand personage was +followed by an attendant, also mounted upon a mule, while several +men on foot accompanied them, one of whom carried his lance and +shield. Upon a near approach, he immediately dismounted, and +advanced towards us, bowing in a most foppish manner, while his +attendant followed him on foot with an enormous violin, which he +immediately handed to him. This fiddle was very peculiar in +shape, being a square, with an exceedingly long neck extending +from one corner; upon this was stretched a solitary string, and +the bow was very short and much bent. This was an Abyssinian +Paganini. He was a professional minstrel of the highest grade, +who had been sent by Mek Nimmur to welcome us on our arrival. + +These musicians are very similar to the minstrels of ancient +times; they attend at public rejoicings, and at births, deaths, +and marriages of great personages, upon which occasions they +extemporize their songs according to circumstances. My hunting in +the Base country formed his theme, and for at least an hour he +sang of my deeds, in an extremely loud and disagreeable voice, +while he accompanied himself upon his fiddle, which he held +downwards like a violoncello: during the whole of his song he +continued in movement, marching with a sliding step to the front, +and gliding to the right and left in a manner that, if intended +to be graceful, was extremely comic. The substance of this +minstrelsy was explained to me by Taher Noor, who listened +eagerly to the words, which he translated with evident +satisfaction. Of course, like all minstrels, he was an absurd +flatterer, and, having gathered a few facts for his theme, he +wandered slightly from the truth in his poetical description of +my deeds. + +He sang of me as though I had been Richard Coeur de Lion, and +recounted, before an admiring throng of listeners, how "I had +wandered with a young wife from my own distant country to fight +the terrible Base; how I had slain them in single combat; and how +elephants and lions were struck down like lambs and kids by my +hands; that during my absence in the hunt, my wife had been +carried off by the Base; that I had, on my return to my pillaged +camp, galloped off in chase, and, overtaking the enemy, hundreds +had fallen by my rifle and sword, and I had liberated and +recovered the lady, who now had arrived safe with her lord in the +country of the great Mek Nimmur," &c. &c. &c. + +This was all very pretty, no doubt, and as true as most poetical +and musical descriptions, but I felt certain that there must be +something to pay for this flattering entertainment; if you are +considered to be a great man, a present is invariably expected in +proportion to your importance. I suggested to Taher Noor that I +must give him a couple of dollars. "What!" said Taher Noor, "a +couple of dollars! Impossible! a musician of his standing it +accustomed to receive thirty and forty dollars from great people +for so beautiful and honourable a song." + +This was somewhat startling; I began to reflect upon the price of +a box at Her Majesty's Theatre in London; but there I was not the +hero of the opera; this minstrel combined the whole affair in a +most simple manner; he was Verdi, Costa, and orchestra all in +one; he was a thorough Macaulay as historian, therefore I had to +pay the composer as well as the fiddler. I compromised the +matter, and gave him a few dollars, as I understood that he was +Mek Nimmur's private minstrel, but I never parted with my dear +Maria Theresa* with so much regret as upon that occasion, and I +begged him not to incommode himself by paying us another visit, +or, should he be obliged to do so, I trusted he would not think +it necessary to bring his violin. + + * The Austrian dollar, that is the only large current + coin in that country. + +The minstrel retired in the same order that he had arrived, and +I watched his retreating figure with unpleasant reflections, that +were suggested by doubts as to whether I had paid him too little +or too much; Taher Noor thought that he was underpaid; my own +opinion was, that I had brought a curse upon myself equal to a +succession of London organ-grinders, as I fully expected that +other minstrels, upon hearing of the Austrian dollars, would pay +us a visit, and sing of my great deeds. + +In the afternoon, we were sitting beneath the shade of our +tamarind tree when we thought we could perceive our musical +friend returning. As he drew near, we were convinced that it was +the identical minstrel, who had most probably been sent with a +message from Mek Nimmur: there he was, in snow-white raiment, on +the snow-white mule, with the mounted attendant and the violin as +before. He dismounted upon arrival opposite the camp, and +approached with his usual foppish bow; but we looked on in +astonishment: it was not our Paganini, it was ANOTHER MINSTREL! +who was determined to sing an ode in our praise. I felt that this +was an indirect appeal to Maria Theresa, and I at once declared +against music. I begged him not to sing; "my wife had a +headache--I disliked the fiddle--could he play anything else +instead?" and I expressed a variety of polite excuses, but to no +purpose; he insisted upon singing; if I "disliked the fiddle, he +would sing without an accompaniment, but he could not think of +insulting so great a man as myself by returning without an ode to +commemorate our arrival." + +I was determined that he should NOT sing; he was determined that +he WOULD, therefore I desired him to leave my camp; this he +agreed to do, provided I would allow him to cross the stream, and +sing to my Tokrooris, in my praise, beneath a neighbouring tree +about fifty yards distant. He remounted his mule with his violin, +to ford the muddy stream, and he descended the steep bank, +followed by his attendant on foot, who drove the unwilling mule. +Upon arrival at the brink of the dirty brook, that was about +three feet deep, the mule positively refused to enter the water, +and stood firm with its fore feet sunk deep in the mud. The +attendant attempted to push it on behind, at the same time he +gave it a sharp blow with his sheathed sword; this changed the +scene to the "opera comique." In one instant the mule gave so +vigorous and unexpected a kick into the bowels of the attendant, +that he fell upon his back, heels uppermost, while at the same +moment the minstrel, in his snow-white garments, was precipitated +head foremost into the muddy brook, and for the moment +disappearing, the violin alone could be seen floating on the +surface. A second later, a wretched-looking object, covered with +slime and filth, emerged from the slough; this was Paganini the +second! who, after securing his fiddle, that had stranded on a +mud-bank, scrambled up the steep slope, amidst the roars of +laughter of my people and of ourselves; while the perverse mule, +having turned harmony into discord, kicked up its heels and +galloped off, braying an ode in praise of liberty, as the "Lay of +the last Minstrel." The discomfited fiddler was wiped down by my +Tokrooris, who occasionally burst into renewed fits of laughter +during the operation; the mule was caught, and the minstrel +remounted, and returned home completely out of tune. + +On the following morning, at sunrise, I mounted my horse, and, +accompanied by Taher Noor and Bacheet, I rode to pay my respects +to Mek Nimmur. Our route lay parallel to the stream, and, after +a ride of about two miles through a fine, park-like country, +bounded by the Abyssinian Alps about fifteen miles distant, I +observed a crowd of people round a large tamarind tree, near +which were standing a number of horses, mules, and dromedaries. +This was the spot upon which I was to meet Mek Nimmur. Upon my +approach the crowd opened, and, having dismounted, I was +introduced by Taher Noor to the great chief. He was a man of +about fifty, and exceedingly dirty in appearance. He sat upon an +angarep, surrounded by his people; lying on either side upon his +seat were two brace of pistols, and within a few yards stood his +horse ready saddled. He was prepared for fight or flight, as were +also his ruffianly-looking followers, who were composed of +Abyssinians and Jaleens. + +I commenced the conversation by referring to the hospitality +shown by his father to my countryman, Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, and +I assured him that such kind attentions were never forgotten by +an Englishman, therefore I had determined to visit him, although +the Egyptian authorities had cautioned me not to trust myself +within his territory. I explained that I was bound towards an +unknown point, in search of the sources of the White Nile, which +might occupy some years, but that I wished to perfect the +exploration by the examination of all the Abyssinian Nile +affluents: and I concluded by asking for his assistance in my +journey to the Bahr Angrab and the Salaam. He replied very +politely, and gave me much local information; he said that the +Egyptians gave him no peace, that he was obliged to fight in +self-defence; but that, if I could make overtures on his part to +the Egyptian authorities, he would engage never to cross the +Atbara, provided they observed a similar condition. I promised to +represent his offer to the Governor-General on my arrival at +Khartoum. He agreed to give me a guide to the rivers Angrab and +Salaam, that were not far distant, and he at once pointed out to +me the two dark gorges, about twelve and sixteen miles distant, +in the chain of precipitous mountains from which they flowed. He +described the country upon the other side of the mountains to be +the elevated plateau of Abyssinia, and he advised me to visit the +king before my departure from his territory; this I could not +conveniently accomplish, as my route lay in an opposite +direction. He begged me for a telescope, so that he should be +able to see the approach of the Turks (Egyptians) from a great +distance, as he explained that he had spies upon all the mountain +tops, so that no stranger could enter his country without his +knowledge. He confessed that my movements while in the Base +country had been watched by his spies, until he had felt assured +that I had no sinister motive. I laughed at the idea; he replied, +that we were most fortunate to have escaped an attack from the +natives, as they were far worse than wild beasts, and he +immediately pointed out several Base slaves who were present in +the crowd, who had been captured when children; they appeared to +be the same as the woolly-headed natives of the south bank of the +Blue Nile, and not at all peculiar in appearance. He cautioned me +against bathing in the stream, or drinking the water in the +neighbourhood of our camp, as it was extremely poisonous, and +would produce an irritation of the skin. I told him that I had +discovered copper, and that I attributed the poisonous quality of +the water to the presence of that mineral. This announcement was +received with a general expression of approbation. "That is very +curious," he said, "that we who live in this country are +ignorant, and that you, a stranger, should at once explain the +cause of the poison." He at once agreed to the suggestion, as he +said, that during the rains, when the torrents were full, the +water was not unwholesome, but in the dry weather, when the +supply was scanty, and the stream feeble, the strength of the +poison was necessarily increased. He assured me that, although +the pasturage was excellent, all cattle that drank in that hor or +stream became as thin as skeletons. + +Mek Nimmur had been ignorant of the existence of copper, but he +informed me that gold dust was common in the sand of most of the +ravines, and that, if I would remain in his country, I might +discover considerable quantities. I informed him that I had +already discovered the existence of both gold and lead. He +requested me to give him every information respecting the lead, +as he should prefer it to gold, as he could manufacture bullets +to shoot the Turks (as the Egyptians are called by the +neighbouring tribes). After a long and satisfactory conversation, +I made my salaam, and retired. Immediately on my arrival at the +camp, I despatched Wat Gamma on horseback with Taher Noor, in +charge of a pair of beautiful double-barrelled pistols, with the +name of Tatham as the manufacturer; these were loaded, and I sent +a polite message, begging Mek Nimmur's acceptance of the present; +they were accompanied by a supply of ammunition. + +In the evening Wat Gamma returned with the pistols; --they had +BURST! Mek Nimmur had requested him to fire at a mark, and one +barrel of each pistol had given way; thus, the double rifle and +the pistols of the same name "Tatham" had all failed; fortunately +no one was injured. I was afraid that this would lead to some +complication, and I was much annoyed; I had never used these +pistols, but I had considered that they were first rate; thus I +had given them to Mek Nimmur as a valuable present, and they had +proved their utter worthlessness. I immediately mounted my horse, +and with my revolver in my belt, and my beautiful single Beattie +rifle in my hand, I galloped off to Mek Nimmur; he was seated in +the same spot, watching the harvest of dhurra, enormous piles of +which were being thrashed by a number of Abyssinians. The instant +that I arrived, I went straight to him, and explained my regret +and disappointment at the failure of the pistols, and I begged +him to take his choice between my rifle and revolver. He behaved +remarkably well; he had begged my messenger to leave the broken +pistols with him, and not to mention the circumstance to me, as +he felt sure that I should feel even more annoyed than himself; +he now declined my offer, as he said I should require the weapons +during my proposed journey up the White Nile, and he could not +deprive me of their use. He was afraid of the revolver, as it was +too complicated, but I tore from my note-book a small piece of +paper, which I requested one of his people to stick upon a rock +about ninety yards distant. I took a steady shot with the single +rifle, and was fortunate enough to hit the paper exactly. This +elicited general applause, and Mek Nimmur called one of his +people, an Abyssinian, who he declared to be a celebrated shot, +and he requested that he might be allowed to fire the rifle. I +placed a similar mark upon the rock, and the Abyssinian fired +from a rest, and struck the stone, in a good line, about six +inches below the paper. The crowd were in raptures with the +rifle, which I at once insisted upon Mek Nimmur accepting. I then +made my salaam, and mounted my horse amidst general expressions +of approval. + +On the following morning, Mek Nimmur sent us two camel-loads of +corn; a large gourd of honey, weighing about fifty pounds; and +four cows that must have been a detachment of Pharaoh's lean +kine, with a polite message that I was to select the FATTEST. +These cattle were specimens of the poisonous qualities of the +water; but, although disappointed in the substance of the +present, my people were delighted with the acquisition, and they +immediately selected a cow; but just as they were licking their +lips at the prospect of fresh meat, which they had not tasted for +some days, the cow broke away and made off across country. In +despair at the loss, my men followed in hot pursuit, and two of +the Tokrooris overtook her, and held on to her tail like +bull-dogs, although dragged for some distance, at full gallop +through thorns and ruts, until the other men arrived and +overpowered the thin, but wiry animal. When slaughtered, there +was a great squabble between my men and the Abyssinians, who +endeavoured to steal the meat. + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +A CAMEL FALLS, AND DIES. + +I EXTRACT a few notes from my journal:-- + +"March 25, 1862.--Mai Gubba is about twelve miles E.N.E. of our +camp. Mek Nimmur's stronghold is upon a lofty table-mountain, due +south of this spot, from which great elevation (about 5,000 feet) +the granite mountain of Cassala is said to be plainly visible. + +"March 27.--We started for the Bahr Salaam, and said good-bye to +Mek Nimmur, as we passed his position on our march; he had given +us a guide; an awful-looking scoundrel. + +"We had hardly marched two miles, when one of the baggage-camels +suddenly fell down to die; the Arabs immediately cut its throat +with a sword, and Bacheet, having detached one ear as a witness +of its death, galloped back to borrow a fresh camel of Mek +Nimmur, which he very kindly sent without delay. We were obliged +to bivouac on the spot for the night, as the Arabs required the +flesh of their camel, which was cut into thin strips. As they +were employed in skinning it, they ate large quantities raw and +quivering. The stream, or hor, that flows through this country, +parallel with our route, is the Ma Serdi; all this district is +rich in copper. + +"March 28.--Started at 5 A.M. course S.W. We crossed two hors, +flowing from N.N.W. and joining the Ma Serdi; also a beautiful +running stream of deep and clear water twelve miles from our +bivouac of last evening: this stream is never dry; it springs +from a range of hills about ten miles distant. The whole of this +country is well watered by mountain streams, the trees are no +longer the thorny mimosas, but as the land is not only fertile, +but sufficiently moist, it gives birth to a different kind of +vegetation, and the trees are mostly free from thorns, although +at this season devoid of foliage. The country is ornamented by +extensive cultivation, and numerous villages. We halted at 5 P.M. +having marched twenty-one miles. The fertile soil of this country +is thoroughly melted by rain during the wet season, and in the +intense heat of the drought it becomes a mass of gaping crevices +many feet deep, that render hunting on horseback most dangerous. +Fortunately, as we halted, I observed a herd of tetel, and three +ostriches: the latter made off immediately, but I succeeded in +stalking the tetel, and shot two, right and left, one of which +escaped, but the other became the prize of my Tokrooris. + +"March 29.--Started at 5.30 A.M. and reached the river Salaam at +8 A.M.; the total distance from our camp in Mek Nimmur's country +is thirty-five miles S.W. The Bahr Salaam is precisely similar in +character to the Settite, but smaller; it has scooped through the +rich lands a deep valley, like the latter river, and has +transported the fertile loam to the Atbara, to increase the rich +store of mud which that river delivers to the Nile. The Salaam is +about two hundred yards wide; it flows through perpendicular +cliffs that form walls of rock, in many places from eighty to a +hundred and fifty feet above its bed; the water is as clear as +crystal, and of excellent quality; even now, a strong though +contracted stream is running over the rounded pebbles that form +its bed, similar to that of the Settite. We descended a difficult +path, and continued along the dry portion of the river's bed up +the stream. While we were searching for a spot to encamp, I saw +a fine bull mehedehet (A. Redunca Ellipsiprymna) by the water +side; I stalked him carefully from behind a bed of high rushes, +and shot him across the river with the Fletcher rifle; he went +on, although crippled, but the left-hand barrel settled him by a +bullet through the neck. We camped on the bank of the river. + +"March 30.--I went out to explore the country, and, steering due +east, I arrived at the river Angrab or Angarep, three miles from +the Salaam; from a high rock I could trace its course from the +mountain gorge to this spot, the stream flowing N.W. This noble +river or mountain torrent is about a hundred and fifty yards +wide, although the breadth varies according to the character of +the country through which it passes; in most places it rushes +through frightful precipices; sometimes it is walled within a +channel of only forty or fifty yards, and in such places the +cliffs, although at least a hundred feet perpendicular height, +bear the marks of floods that have actually overtopped the rocks, +and have torn away the earth, and left masses of bamboos and +withered reeds clinging to the branches of trees, which, growing +on still higher rocks, have dipped in the swollen torrent. I +followed the circuitous course of the river for some miles, +until, after a most fatiguing exploration among precipices and +deep ravines, I arrived at the junction of the Salaam river. On +the way, I came upon a fine bull nellut (A. Strepsiceros) beneath +a shady nabbuk by the river's side; I could only obtain an +oblique shot, as his hind quarters were towards me; the bullet +passed through the ribs, and reached the shoulder upon the +opposite side. This nellut had the finest horns that I had yet +obtained; they measured four feet in the curve, three feet one +inch and a half in a straight line, with a spread of two feet +seven inches from point to point. I found tracks of hippopotami +upon the high grassy hills; these animals climb up the most +difficult places during the night, when they ascend from the +river to seek for pasturage. I was not far from the tent when I +arrived at the junction of the Angrab with the Bahr Salaam, but +the rivers were both sunk in stupendous precipices, so that it +was impossible to descend. The mouth of the river Angrab was an +extraordinary sight; it was not wider than about fifteen yards, +although the river averaged a width of at least a hundred and +fifty yards. The exit of the water was between two lofty walls of +basalt rock, which overhung the stream, which in the rainy season +not only forced its way for about a hundred yards through this +narrow cleft, but it had left proof of inundations that had leapt +over the summit of the obstruction, when the rush of water had +been too great for the area of the contracted passage. +Altogether, the two rivers Sahaam and Angrab are interesting +examples of the destructive effect of water, that has during the +course of ages cut through, and hollowed out in the solid rock, +a succession of the most horrible precipices and caverns, in +which the maddened torrents, rushing from the lofty chain of +mountains, boil along until they meet the Atbara, and assist to +flood the Nile. No one could explore these tremendous torrents, +the Settite, Royan, Angrab, Salaam, and Atbara, without at once +comprehending their effect upon the waters of the Nile. The +magnificent chain of mountains from which they flow, is not a +simple line of abrupt sides, but the precipitous slopes are the +walls of a vast plateau, that receives a prodigious rainfall in +June, July, August, until the middle of September, the entire +drainage of which is carried away by the above-named channels to +inundate Lower Egypt." + +Not being able to cross the river at the point of junction with +the Salaam, I continued along the margin of the precipice that +overhangs the latter river, until I should find a place by which +we could descend with the camel, as this animal had made a great +circuit to avoid the difficulties of the Angrab. We were at +length united, and were continuing our route parallel with the +river, over undulations of withered grass about three feet high, +interspersed with trees, when I perceived above the surface the +long horns of a mehedehet (R. Ellipsiprymna). I knew that he must +be lying down, and, as he was about a hundred and fifty yards +distant, I stalked him carefully from tree to tree; presently I +observed three other pairs of horns at various distances; two +were extremely large; but, unfortunately, an animal with smaller +horns was lying between me and the largest. I could do no more +than creep quietly from point to point, until the smaller animal +should start and alarm the larger. This it did when I was about +a hundred yards from the large bull, and both mehedehets sprang +up, and, as is usual with this species, they stood for a few +moments seeking for the danger. My clothes and hunting cap +matched so well with the bark of the tree behind which I was +kneeling, that I was unobserved, and, taking a rest against the +stem with the little Fletcher, I fired both barrels, the right at +the most distant bull. Both animals simply sprang for an instant +upon their hind legs, and fell. This was capital; but at the +report of the rifle, up jumped two other mehedehets, which +appeared the facsimiles of those I had just shot; having missed +their companions, and seeing no one, they stood motionless and +gazed in all directions. + +I had left my people far behind when I had commenced the stalk, +therefore I had no spare rifle. I reloaded behind the tree with +all haste. I had capped the nipples, and, as I looked out from my +covering point, I saw them still in the same spot; the larger, +with superb horns, was about a hundred and twenty yards distant. +Again I took a rest, and fired. He sprang away as though +untouched for the first three or four bounds, when he leapt +convulsively in the air, and fell backwards. This was too much +for the remaining animal, that was standing about a hundred yards +distant--he bounded off; but the last barrel of the little +Fletcher caught him through the neck at full gallop, and he fell +all of a heap, stone dead. + +These were the prettiest shots I ever recollect to have made, in +a very long experience; I had bagged four with the same rifle in +as many shots, as quickly as I could load and fire. + +My Tokroori, Abdoolahi, who had been intently watching the shots +from a distance, came rushing up in hot excitement with one of my +sharp hunting knives, and, springing forward to hamstring one of +the animals, that was still struggling, he foolishly made a +downward cut, and, missing his blow, he cut his own leg terribly +across the shin, the knife flying out of his hand as it struck +against the bone: he was rendered helpless immediately. I tied up +the wound with my handkerchief, and, having at length loaded the +camel with as much meat as we could cut off the animals, +Abdoolahi was assisted upon its back; my men carried the two +finest heads. It was very late, and we now sought for a path by +which we could descend to the river. + +At length we discovered a dangerous antelope-track, that +descended obliquely, by skirting an exceedingly steep side of a +hill, with a perpendicular precipice immediately below, that fell +for about seventy feet sheer to the river. My horse Tetel was as +sure-footed as a goat, therefore, having taken off my shoes to +avoid slipping, I led him to the bottom safely. Taher Noor called +to the camel-driver not to attempt to follow. Although warned, +this fellow persisted in leading the heavily-laden animal down +the slippery and dangerous path. Hardly had he gone a few paces, +when the camel's feet slipped, and it shot down the rapid +incline, and disappeared over the edge of the precipice. I heard +the camel roar, and, hastening up the path, I looked over the +cliff, holding to a rope that Taher Noor fastened to a tree. I +perceived that the animal was fortunately caught upon a narrow +ledge of rock, and was prevented from falling to the bottom by a +tough bush that grew from a cleft; this alone supported it in +mid-air. My Arabs were wild and stupid. Abdoolahi had held on +like a leech, and, as we were well provided with strong ropes, we +soon hauled him up, but the Arabs declared their camel to be +dead, as no power on earth could save it. Having examined the +cliff, I felt sure that we could assist the camel, unless it had +already broken some bones by the fall; accordingly, I gave orders +to the Arabs, who obeyed implicitly, as they were so heart-broken +at the idea of losing their animal, that they had lost all +confidence in themselves. We lowered down Taher Noor by a rope to +the bush, and after some difficulty, he unfastened the load of +flesh, which he threw piece by piece to a platform of rock below, +about ten feet square, which formed a shelf a few inches above +the level of the water. The camel being relieved of both the load +and its saddle, I ordered the Arabs to fasten together all their +ropes; these, being made of twisted antelope's hide, were +immensely strong, and, as I had established a rule that seven +extra bundles should invariably accompany the water-camel, we had +a large supply. The camel was now secured by a rope passed round +the body beneath the forelegs, and the cloths of the Arabs were +wrapped around the cord to prevent it from cutting the skin. This +being arranged, I took a double turn of the rope round a tree, as +thick as a man's thigh, that grew in a cleft of the rock where we +stood, and throwing the honey axe to Taher Noor, I told him to +cut away the bushes that supported the camel, and I would lower +it gently down to the shelf by the water's edge. In a few minutes +the bushes were cut away, and the camel, roaring with fright, +swung in mid-air. Taher Noor held on to the rope, while I slacked +off the line from the tree, and lowered both man and beast safely +to the shelf, about seventy feet below. The camel was unhurt, and +the Arabs were delighted; two other men now descended. We threw +them down a quantity of dry wood to make a fire, and, as they +were well off for meat, we left them prisoners upon the ledge of +rock with the profoundly deep river before them, walled in by +abrupt precipices upon either side.* It was nearly dark, and, +having to find my way to the camp among dangerous ravines, I rode +fast ahead of my men to discover a ford, and to reach home before +complete darkness should increase the danger. Tetel was as +sure-footed and as nimble as a cat, but we very nearly ended our +days together, as the bank of a precipice gave way while we were +skirting the edge. I felt it sinking, but the horse sprang +forward and saved himself, as I heard the mass fall beneath. + + * On the following morning the camel was safely + floated across the river, supported by the inflated + skins of the mehedehets. + +That night we received a very audacious visit. I was asleep in my +tent, when I was suddenly awakened by a slight pull at my sleeve, +which was the signal always given by my wife if anything was +wrong; on such occasions, I never replied until I had gently +grasped my little Fletcher, which always slept with me beneath my +mat. She now whispered that a hyaena had been within the tent, +but that it had just bolted out, as these animals are so wary +that they detect the slightest movement or noise. As a rule, I +never shot at hyaenas, but, as I feared it might eat our saddles, +I lay in bed with the rifle to my shoulder, pointed towards the +tent door through which the moon was shining brightly. In a few +minutes, a grey-looking object stood like an apparition at the +entrance, peering into the tent to see if all were right before +it entered. I touched the trigger, and the hyaena fell dead, with +the bullet through its head. This was a regular veteran, as his +body was covered with old scars from continual conflicts with +other hyaenas. This was the first time that one of these animals +had taken such a liberty; they were generally contented with +eating the bones that were left from our dinner outside the tent +door, which they cleared away regularly every night. + +We remained in this beautiful country from March 29th until April +14th, during which time I seldom remained for an hour in camp, +from sunrise to sunset; I was always in the saddle or on foot. +Two of my best Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, usually +accompanied me on horseback, while Taher Noor and a couple of +Arabs rode upon camels with a good supply of water. In this +manner I traversed the entire country, into the base of the great +mountain chain, and thence down the course of the river towards +the Atbara junction. This district was entirely composed of the +most fertile soil, through which the great rivers Angrab and +Salaam had cut their way in a similar manner to the Atbara and +Settite. The Salaam, after the junction of the Angrab, was equal +in appearance to the Atbara, but the inclination of this great +mountain torrent is so rapid, that it quickly becomes exhausted +at the cessation of rain in the lofty mountains that form its +source. Both the Angrab and the Salaam are short rivers, but, as +they are the two main channels for the reception of the entire +drainage of a vast mountain area, they bring down most violent +floods, that materially affect the volume of the main artery. + +The whole of this country abounded in game beyond any that I had +hitherto seen, and I had most glorious sport. Among the varieties +of antelopes, was a new species that I had seen upon several +occasions on the Settite, where it was extremely rare. On the +high open plains above the valley of the Salaam, this antelope +was very numerous, but so wild and wary that it was impossible to +approach nearer than from 350 to 500 yards. This magnificent +animal, the largest of all the antelopes of Abyssinia and Central +Africa, is known to the Arabs as the Maarif (Hippotragus +Bakerii). It is a variety of the sable antelope of South Africa +(Hippotragus Niger). The colour is mouse-grey, with a black +stripe across the shoulders, and black and white lines across the +nose and cheeks. The height at the shoulder would exceed fourteen +hands, and the neck is ornamented with a thick and stiff black +mane. The shoulders are peculiarly massive, and are extremely +high at the withers; the horns are very powerful, and, like those +of the roan and the sable antelope, they are annulated, and bend +gracefully backwards. Both the male and female are provided with +horns; those of the former are exceedingly thick, and the points +frequently extend so far as to reach the shoulders. + +The Maarif invariably inhabits open plains, upon which it can see +an enemy at a great distance, thus it is the most difficult of +all animals to stalk. Nothing can be more beautiful than a herd +of these superb animals, but the only successful method of +hunting would be to course them with greyhounds; my dogs were +dead, thus I depended entirely upon the rifle. I was also +deprived of the assistance of the aggageers, whom I had left at +the Royan. + +Rhinoceros and giraffes were very numerous throughout this +country; but the ground was most unfavourable for riding. The +surface resembled a beautiful park, composed of a succession of +undulations, interspersed with thornless trees, and watered by +streamlets at intervals of five or eight miles, while the +magnificent Alps of Abyssinia bounded the view to the south; but +there was no enjoyment in this country on horseback. The rainy +season converted this rich loam into a pudding, and the dry +season baked it into a pie-crust. The entire surface was loose, +flaky, and hollow; there was not a yard of ground that was not +split into deep crevices, that were regular pitfalls; and so +unsound was the general character of the country, that a horse +sank above his fetlocks at every footstep. I usually rode during +the day when exploring; but whenever I shot, it was necessary to +dismount, as it was impossible to follow an animal successfully +on horseback. I had on several occasions attempted to ride down +a giraffe, but upon such ground I had not the slightest chance; +thus the aggageers, who invariably hunt the giraffe by riding at +full speed until they can hamstring it with the sword, never +visit this country. This accounted for the presence of so large +a number of animals, as they were never disturbed by these +untiring hunters. + +Our camp was pitched at the junction of a torrent, which, flowing +from the higher ground, joined the river Salaam in a succession +of waterfalls. At this season, a gentle stream, as clear as +glass, rippled over a rocky bed about twenty yards wide, and the +holes in the flat surface above the fall formed natural basins of +the purest water. I frequently strolled for some miles along the +bed of the stream, that afforded excellent pasturage for the +horses in a sweet, green grass, that was not only an attraction +to antelopes and buffaloes (Bos Caffer), but formed a covert for +incredible numbers of the beautiful francolin partridge, which +might have been shot in hundreds as they rose from the cool +herbage that afforded both food and concealment. I was returning +late one evening along the bed of the stream, after a day's +shooting, during which I had bagged several antelopes and wild +boar, when I observed at a distance a dark mass in the bright +yellow grass, which I quickly distinguished as a herd of +elephants. It was just dusk, and having endeavoured to meet them +as they came to drink, but without success, I determined to track +them up on the following morning. I started at daybreak, with all +my horses and gun-bearers. For about sixteen miles we tracked up +the herd to within a short distance of the base of the mountain +range. During the march, we had seen large quantities of +giraffes, and all the varieties of large antelopes. The country, +that had consisted of a vast plain, now changed to rapid +undulations; the trees were generally small, and, at this season +of intense dryness, were devoid of leaves. At the bottom of one +of these undulations, among a number of skeleton trees, that +afforded no shade, we discovered the elephants, standing in the +high withered grass, that entirely concealed all but the upper +portion of their heads; they were amusing themselves by tearing +up the trees, and feeding upon the succulent roots. I ordered +Taher Noor and Bacheet each to take a horse and rifle, and to +lead them, together with my hunter Aggahr, about a hundred yards +behind me, while I advanced towards the elephants on foot. At the +sound of the first shot they were to mount, and to bring my horse +and spare guns as rapidly as possible. Unfortunately, the herd +was alarmed by a large bull giraffe that was asleep in the grass, +which started up within thirty yards of us, and dashed off in +terror through the mass of elephants. Their attention was roused, +and they moved off to my left, which change of position +immediately gave them our wind. There was no time to lose, as the +herd was in retreat; and, as they were passing across my path, at +about two hundred paces distance, I ran at my best speed, +stumbling through the broken pie-crust, and sinking in the +yawning crevices, the sides of which were perfectly rotten, until +I arrived within shot of about twenty-five elephants. I was just +on the point of firing at the temple of a large animal that was +within about ten yards, when it suddenly turned, and charged +straight at me. With the right-hand barrel of a Reilly No. 10, I +was fortunate enough to turn it by a forehead shot, when so close +that it was nearly upon me. As it swerved, I fired the remaining +barrel exactly through the centre of the shoulder; this dropped +and killed the elephant as though it had been shot through the +brain. + +The difficulties of the ground were such, that the horses were +not led as quickly as I had expected; thus I had to reload, which +I had just completed when Aggahr was brought by Taher Noor. +Springing into the saddle I at once gave chase. The gallant old +horse flew along through the high grass, regardless of the +crevices and rotten ground. The herd was about three hundred +yards ahead, but the long steady stride of Aggahr quickly +shortened the distance, and in a few minutes I was riding +alongside the elephants, that were shambling along at a great +pace. I determined to head them, and drive them back towards my +people, in which case I expected that we might be able to +surround them. I touched Aggahr with the spur, and he shot ahead +of the leading elephants, when I turned sharp to the right +exactly before their path, and gave a shout to check their +advance; in the same instant, Aggahr turned a complete somersault +within a few yards of their feet, having put his fore-leg into a +deep crevice, and I rolled over almost beneath the elephants with +the heavy rifle in my hand. The horse recovered quicker than I, +and, galloping off, he vanished in the high grass, leaving me +rather confused from the fall upon my head. The herd, instead of +crushing me as they ought to have done, took fright, and bolted +off at their best pace. My eyes were dancing with the fall; the +mounted gun-bearers were nowhere, as Gazelle would not face the +elephants, and Tetel was far behind. My English saddle had +vanished with Aggahr, and, as the stirrups of the Arab saddles +were simple rings for the accommodation of the big toe, they were +unserviceable. Had the aggageers been with me, I should have had +great sport with this herd; but, with the exception of Taher +Noor, the men were bad horsemen, and even he was afraid of the +ground, which was frightfully dangerous. + +We discovered that the bullet had passed through the great artery +of the heart, which had caused the instantaneous death of the +elephant I had shot. + +We were now at least seventeen miles from camp, and I feared that +Aggahr would be lost, and would most likely be devoured by a lion +during the night: thus I should lose not only my good old hunter, +but my English saddle. I passed several hours in searching for +him in all directions, and, in order to prevent him from straying +to the south, we fired the grass in all directions; we thus had +a line of fire between the camp and ourselves; this burnt slowly, +as the north wind had carried the blaze rapidly in the other +direction. We rode along the bottom of a watercourse and reached +the Salaam river, thus avoiding the fire; but, some hours before +we neared the camp, night had set in. We had beaten the fire, as +we had got to windward, and slowly and tediously we toiled along +the crumbling soil, stumbling among the crevices, that were +nearly invisible in the moonlight. + +Thus we crept onwards; I had found riding impracticable, +therefore the horses were led, with much difficulty, as they +constantly slipped up to their knees in the numerous fissures. It +was difficult to recognise our position in the moonlight, and we +were doubtful whether we had not missed our route to the camp. My +watch told me that it was past nine o'clock, and we had been +sixteen hours in hard work without the slightest rest. We halted +to confer about the direction of the camp, when suddenly I heard +the report of a gun to our right; we immediately turned, and +hastened towards the welcome sound; presently I heard a distant +shout. As we approached, this was repeated, and as I hurried +forward, I recognised my own name shouted in an agonised voice. +I ran on alone at my best speed, after giving a loud shrill +whistle upon my fingers. This was quickly replied to, and I +repeated the well-known signal, until in about ten minutes I met +my wife, who had been wandering about the country half distracted +for hours, searching for me in every direction, as my horse +Aggahr had returned to the camp with the bridle broken, and the +empty saddle scratched by the boughs of trees; she had naturally +concluded that some accident had happened. She had immediately +armed herself with the little Fletcher that had been left in the +camp, being too small for elephants; with this, and several of +the Arabs armed with swords and lances, she had been hunting +throughout this wild country during the night in a state of +terrible anxiety. It was fortunate that she had fired the shot to +direct our attention, otherwise we might have passed each other +without being seen. "All's well that ends well:" we were about +three miles from camp, but the distance appeared short to +everybody, as we now knew the true direction, and we at length +perceived the glare of a large fire that our people had lighted +as a beacon. + +The horse, Aggahr, must have found his way without difficulty, as +he had arrived a little before sunset. This curious instinct, +that enables a horse to find the direction to its last +halting-place in a wild and pathless country, was thoroughly +appreciated by the Arabs, who had comforted me with the +assurance, that no Abyssinian horse would lose his way to the +spot where he had last passed the night, if separated from his +rider. + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +SEND A PARTY TO RECONNOITRE. + +I HAD thoroughly explored the beautiful country of the Salaam and +Angrab; it was the 11th of April, and I intended to push on to +Gallabat, the frontier market-town of Abyssinia. We had no guide, +as the fellow that had been supplied by Mek Nimmur had absconded +the day after our arrival at the Salaam, but during the march he +had pointed out a blue outline of a distant mountain in the +south, that was called Nahoot Guddabi, or the Saddle of Guddabi. +This was an unmistakeable landmark, as it exactly resembled an +Arab saddle; at the foot of this mountain was the Tokroori +village of Guddabi, the first habitation, at a distance of about +fifty miles from the Bahr Salaam. Although, from the experience +I had had in this neighbourhood, I had little doubt of the supply +of water on the road, I sent three of my Tokrooris upon as many +camels with water-skins, to reconnoitre before I should move the +camp. + +On the second day they returned, and reported the existence of +several small streams, all of which produced excellent water. + +We started on the following afternoon, and, with Hassan as our +guide, and Taher Noor upon a camel, my wife and I cantered ahead +of the main body, over a high ridge of stony, and accordingly +firm ground. Upon arrival at the summit, we had a lovely view of +the surrounding country, and we commenced a gentle descent into +a vast plain sparsely covered with small trees. In the extensive +prospect before us, the dark green veins of foliage in the +otherwise yellow surface of withered grass marked out distinctly +the course of small rivulets. We hurried on, sometimes over +blackened ashes, where the fire had swept all before it, at other +times through withered grass, that had been saved from +destruction through the intervention of some ravine. At 7.30 P.M. +we arrived at an excellent halting place, by a beautiful but +small stream of water, shaded by a fringe of dome palms; this was +by dead reckoning seventeen miles from our last camp. It had been +pleasant travelling, as the moon was full; we had ridden fast, +therefore it was useless to expect the camels for some hours; we +accordingly spread the carpet on the ground, and lay down to +sleep, with the stocks of the rifles for pillows, as we had +frequently done on former occasions. + +On the following morning I sent a couple of men on camels to +reconnoitre the country in advance, towards Guddabi, and to +return with the report of the supply of water. This country +abounded with large game, especially with the beautiful antelope +already described, the maarif; they were as usual extremely wild, +but I succeeded in breaking the hip of a fine bull at a long +range; and, separating him from the herd, I ran the wounded +antelope until I was thoroughly exhausted in the intense heat of +the sun, but I lost it in the thick bush not far from our camp. +That night we heard a lion roaring close to us, and, upon +searching at daybreak I found the remains of a maarif, which I +imagine must have been my wounded bull. + +I mounted my horse Tetel, and, with Taher Noor and two of my +Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, I rode towards a pyramidical +hill about three miles distant, which I intended to ascend in +order to obtain a panoramic view of the country. This hill was +about three hundred feet high, and, as the fire had swept away a +portion of the grass for several miles around, I should obtain a +clear view of all living animals that might be in the +neighbourhood. Upon arrival at the base of the hill I dismounted, +and led my horse up the steep inclination of broken basalt that +had fallen from the summit. From the top of the peak I had a +superb panorama of the country, the mountain Nahoot Guddabi +bearing S.W. about thirty miles distant. I had a complete +bird's-eye view of great extent, and I immediately distinguished, +in various positions, giraffes, buffaloes, tetel, and boars. At +this season the trees were leafless, thus any animal upon the low +ground would be at once discovered from this elevated point. I +extract from my journal the account of this day's hunt, as it was +written immediately upon my return to camp. + +"I had been observing the country for some time from my high +station, when I suddenly perceived two rhinoceros emerge from a +ravine; they walked slowly through a patch of high grass, and +skirted the base of the hill upon which we were standing: +presently they winded something, and they trotted back and stood +concealed in the patch of grass. Although I had a good view of +them from my present position, I knew that I should not be able +to see them in their covert, if on the same level; I therefore +determined to send to the tent for my other horses, and to ride +them down, if I could not shoot them on foot; accordingly, I sent +a man off, directing him to lead Tetel from the peak, and to +secure him to a tree at the foot of the hill, as I was afraid the +rhinoceros might observe the horse upon the sky line. This he +did, and we saw him tie the horse by the bridle to the branch of +a tree below us, while he ran quickly towards the camp. In the +mean time I watched the rhinoceros; both animals lay down in the +yellow grass, resembling masses of stone. They had not been long +in this position, before we noticed two pigs wandering through +the grass directly to windward, towards the sleeping rhinoceros; +in an instant these animals winded the intruders, and starting +up, they looked in all directions, but could not see them, as +they were concealed by the high grass. Having been thus +disturbed, the rhinoceros moved their quarters, and walked slowly +forward, occasionally halting, and listening; one was about a +hundred yards in advance of the other. They were taking a +direction at the base of the hill that would lead them directly +upon the spot where Tetel was tied to the tree. I observed this +to Taher Noor, as I feared they would kill the horse. 'Oh, no,' +he replied, 'they will lie down and sleep beneath the first tree, +as they are seeking for shade--the sun is like fire.' However, +they still continued their advance, and, upon reaching some +rising ground, the leading rhinoceros halted, and I felt sure +that he had a clear view of the horse, that was now about five +hundred yards distant, tied to the tree. A ridge descended from +the hill, parallel with the course the animals were taking; upon +this, I ran as quickly as the stony slope permitted, keeping my +eye fixed upon the leading rhinoceros, who, with his head raised, +was advancing directly towards the horse. I now felt convinced +that he intended to attack it. Tetel did not observe the +rhinoceros, but was quietly standing beneath the tree. I ran as +fast as I was able, and reached the bottom of the hill just as +the wilful brute was within fifty yards of the horse, which now +for the first time saw the approaching danger; the rhinoceros had +been advancing steadily at a walk, but he now lowered his head, +and charged at the horse at full speed. + +"I was about two hundred yards distant, and for the moment I was +afraid of shooting the horse, but I fired one of the Reilly No. +10 rifles; the bullet, missing the rhinoceros, dashed the sand +and stones into his face, as it struck the ground exactly before +his nose, when he appeared to be just into the unfortunate Tetel. +The horse in the same instant reared, and, breaking the bridle, +it dashed away in the direction of the camp, while the +rhinoceros, astonished at the shot, and most likely half blinded +by the sand and splinters of rock, threw up his head, turned +round, and trotted back upon the track by which he had arrived. +He passed me at about a hundred yards distance, as I had run +forward to a bush, by which he trotted with his head raised, +seeking for the cause of his discomfiture. Crack! went a bullet +against his hide, as I fired my remaining barrel at his shoulder; +he cocked his tail, and for a few yards he charged towards the +shot; but he suddenly changed his course, and ran round several +times in a small circle; he then halted, and reeling to and fro, +he retreated very slowly, and lay down about a hundred yards off. +Well done, Reilly! I knew that he had his quietus, but I was +determined to bag his companion, who in alarm had now joined him, +and stood looking in all quarters for the source of danger; but +we were well concealed behind the bush. Presently, the wounded +rhinoceros stood up, and walking very slowly, followed by his +comrade, he crossed a portion of rising ground at the base of the +hill, and both animals disappeared. I at once started off Hassan, +who could run like an antelope, in search of Tetel, while I +despatched another man to the summit of the peak to see if the +rhinoceros were in view; if not, I knew they must be among the +small trees and bushes at the foot of the hill. I thus waited for +a long time, until at length the two greys, Aggahr and Gazelle, +arrived with my messenger from the camp. I tightened the girths +of the Arab saddle upon Aggahr, and I had just mounted, cursing +all Arab stirrups, that are only made for the naked big toe, when +my eyes were gladdened by the sight of Hassan cantering towards +me upon Tetel, but from the exact direction the rhinoceros had +taken. 'Quick! quick!' he cried, 'come along! One rhinoceros is +lying dead close by, and the other is standing beneath a tree not +far off.' + +"I immediately jumped on Tetel, and, taking the little Fletcher +rifle, as lighter and handier than the heavy No. 10, I ordered +Taher Noor and Hassan to mount the other horses, and to follow me +with spare rifles. I found the rhinoceros lying dead about two +hundred yards from the spot where he had received the shot, and +I immediately perceived the companion, that was standing beneath +a small tree. The ground was firm and stony, all the grass had +been burnt off, except in a few small patches; the trees were not +so thick together as to form a regular jungle. + +"The rhinoceros saw us directly, and he valiantly stood and faced +me as I rode up within fifty yards of him. Tetel is worth his +weight in gold as a shooting horse: he stands like a rock, and +would face the devil. I was unable to take a shot in this +position, therefore I ordered the men to ride round a +half-circle, as I knew the rhinoceros would turn towards the +white horses, and thus expose his flank; this he did immediately, +aud firing well, exactly at the shoulder, I dropped him as though +stone dead. Taher Noor shouted, 'Samme durrupto!' (well shot); +the rhinoceros lay kicking upon the ground, and I thought he was +bagged. Not a bit of it! the No. 24 bullet had not force to break +the massive shoulder bone, but had merely paralysed it for the +moment; up he jumped and started off in full gallop. Now for a +hunt! up the hill he started, then obliquely he chose a regular +rhinoceros path, and scudded away, Tetel answering to the spur +and closing with him; through the trees; now down the hill over +the loose rocks, where he gained considerably upon the horse. +'Easy down the hill, gently over the stones, Tetel,' and I took +a pull at the reins until I reached the level ground beneath, +which was firm and first-rate. I saw the rhinoceros pelting away +about a hundred and twenty yards ahead, and spurring hard, I shot +up to him at full speed until within twenty yards, when round he +came with astonishing quickness and charged straight at the +horse. I was prepared for this, as was my horse also; we avoided +him by a quick turn, and again renewed the chase, and regained +our position within a few yards of the game. Thus the hunt +continued for about a mile and a half, the rhinoceros +occasionally charging, but always cleverly avoided by the horse. +Tetel seemed to enjoy the fun, and hunted like a greyhound. +Nevertheless I had not been able to pass the rhinoceros, who had +thundered along at a tremendous pace whenever I had attempted to +close; however, the pace began to tell upon his wounded shoulder; +he evidently went lame, and, as I observed at some distance +before us the commencement of the dark-coloured rotten ground I +felt sure that it would shortly be a case of 'stand still.' In +this I was correct, and, upon reaching the deep and crumbling +soil, he turned sharp round, made a clumsy charge that I easily +avoided, and he stood panting at bay. Taher Noor was riding +Gazelle; this was a very timid horse and was utterly useless as +a hunter, but, as it reared and plunged upon seeing the +rhinoceros, that animal immediately turned towards it with the +intention of charging. Riding Tetel close to his flank, I fired +both barrels of the little Fletcher into the shoulder; he fell to +the shots, and, stretching out his legs convulsively, he died +immediately." + +This was a capital termination to the hunt; as I had expected the +death of my good horse Tetel, when the first rhinoceros had so +nearly horned him. The sun was like a furnace, therefore I rode +straight to camp, and sent men and camels for the hides and +flesh. As I passed the body of the first rhinoceros, I found a +regiment of vultures already collected around it, while fresh +arrivals took place every minute, as they gathered from all +quarters; they had already torn out the eyes, and dragged a +portion of flesh from the bullet-wound in the shoulder; but the +tough hide of the rhinoceros was proof against their greedy +beaks. A number of Marabou storks had also arrived, and were +standing proudly among the crowd of vultures, preparing to +perform the duty of sextons, when the skin should become +sufficiently decomposed. Throughout all the countries that I had +traversed, these birds were in enormous numbers. The question has +been frequently discussed whether the vulture is directed to his +prey by the sense of smell, or by keenness of vision; I have paid +much attention to their habits, and, although there can be no +question that their power of scent is great, I feel convinced +that all birds of prey are attracted to their food principally by +their acuteness of sight. If a vulture were blind, it would +starve; but were the nostrils plugged up with some foreign +substance to destroy its power of smell, it would not materially +interfere with its usual mode of hunting. Scent is always +stronger near the surface of the ground; thus hyaenas, lions, and +other beasts of prey will scent a carcase from a great distance, +provided they are to leeward; but the same animals would be +unaware of the presence of the body if they were but a short +distance to windward. + +If birds of prey trusted to their nostrils, they would keep as +near the ground as possible, like the carrion crow, which I +believe is the exception that proves the rule. It is an +astonishing sight to witness the sudden arrival of vultures at +the death of an animal, when a few moments before not a bird has +been in sight in the cloudless sky. I have frequently laid down +beneath a bush after having shot an animal, to watch the arrival +of the various species of birds in regular succession; they +invariably appear in the following order:-- + +No. 1, the black and white crow: this knowing individual is most +industrious in seeking for his food, and is generally to be seen +either perched upon rocks or upon trees; I believe he trusts much +to his sense of smell, as he is never far from the ground, at the +same time he keeps a vigilant look-out with a very sharp pair of +eyes. + +No. 2 is the common buzzard: this bird, so well known for its +extreme daring, is omnipresent, and trusts generally to sight, as +it will stoop at a piece of red cloth in mistake for flesh; thus +proving that it depends more upon vision than smell. + +No. 3 is the red-faced small vulture. + +No. 4 is the large bare-throated vulture. + +No. 5, the Marabou stork, sometimes accompanied by the adjutant. + +When employed in watching the habits of these birds, it is +interesting to make the experiment of concealing a dead animal +beneath a dense bush. This I have frequently done; in which case +the vultures never find it unless they have witnessed its death; +if so, they will already have pounced in their descent while you +have been engaged in concealing the body: they will then upon +near approach discover it by the smell. But, if an animal is +killed in thick grass, eight or ten feet high, the vultures will +seldom discover it. I have frequently known the bodies of large +animals, such as elephants and buffaloes, to lie for days beneath +the shade of the dense nabbuk bushes, unattended by a single +vulture; whereas, if visible, they would have been visited by +these birds in thousands. + +Vultures and the Marabou stork fly at enormous altitudes. I +believe that every species keeps to its own particular elevation, +and that the atmosphere contains regular strata of birds of prey, +who, invisible to the human eye at their enormous height, are +constantly resting upon their wide-spread wings, and soaring in +circles, watching with telescopic sight the world beneath. At +that great elevation they are in an exceedingly cool temperature, +therefore they require no water; but some birds that make long +flights over arid deserts, such as the Marabou stork, and the +buzzard, are provided with water-sacks; the former in an external +bag a little below the throat, the latter in an internal sack, +both of which carry a large supply. As the birds of prey that I +have enumerated, invariably appear at a carcase in their regular +succession, I can only suggest that they travel from different +distances or altitudes. Thus, the Marabou stork would be farthest +from the earth; the large bare-necked vulture would be the next +below him, followed by the red-faced vulture, the buzzard, and +the crow that is generally about the surface. From their immense +elevation, the birds of prey possess an extraordinary field of +vision; and, although they are invisible from the earth, there +can be no doubt that they are perpetually hunting in circles +within sight of each other. Thus, should one bird discover some +object upon the surface of the earth below, his sudden pounce +would be at once observed and imitated by every vulture in +succession. Should one vulture nearest the earth perceive a body, +or even should he notice the buzzards collecting at a given +point, he would at once become aware of a prey; his rush towards +the spot would act like a telegraphic signal to others, that +would be rapidly communicated to every vulture at successive airy +stations. + +If any animal be skinned, the red surface will attract the +vultures in an instant; this proves that their sight, and not +their scent, has been attracted by an object that suggests blood. +I have frequently watched them when I have shot an animal, and my +people have commenced the process of skinning. At first, not a +bird has been in sight, as I have lain on my back and gazed into +the spotless blue sky; but hardly has the skin been half +withdrawn, than specks have appeared in the heavens, rapidly +increasing. "Caw, caw," has been heard several times from the +neighbouring bushes; the buzzards have swept down close to my +people, and have snatched a morsel of clotted blood from the +ground. The specks have increased to winged creatures, at the +great height resembling flies, when presently a rushing sound +behind me, like a whirlwind, has been followed by the pounce of +a red-faced vulture, that has fallen from the heavens in haste +with closed wings to the bloody feast, followed quickly by many +of his brethren. The sky has become alive with black specks in +the far-distant blue, with wings hurrying from all quarters. At +length a coronet of steady, soaring vultures, forms a wide circle +far above, as they hesitate to descend, but continue to revolve +around the object of attraction. The great bare-necked vulture +suddenly appears. The animal has been skinned, and the required +flesh secured by the men; we withdraw a hundred paces from the +scene. A general rush and descent takes place; hundreds of hungry +beaks are tearing at the offal. The great bare-necked vulture +claims respect among the crowd; but another form has appeared in +the blue sky, and rapidly descends. A pair of long, ungainly +legs, hanging down beneath the enormous wings, now touch the +ground, and Abou Seen (father of the teeth or beak, the Arab name +for the Marabou) has arrived, and he stalks proudly towards the +crowds, pecking his way with his long bill through the struggling +vultures, and swallowing the lion's share of the repast. Abou +Seen, last but not least, had arrived from the highest region, +while others had the advantage of the start. This bird is very +numerous through the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, and may +generally be seen perched upon the rocks of the water-side, +watching for small fish, or any reptile that may chance to come +within his reach. The well-known feathers are situated in a plume +beneath the tail. + +On 14th April we left our camp in the afternoon, and, after +marching nine miles, during which we passed two small streams, +flowing, like all others, from this point, west to the Atbara, we +slept by a large pool in a third stream of considerable size. A +waterfall flowed over a row of perpendicular basalt columns that +surrounded a deep basin, resembling piles of ebony artificially +arranged. On the following morning we started before sunrise, and +rode over the usual pathless burnt prairies, until we reached the +base of Nahoot Guddabi, the mountain for which we had been +steering. Eight miles farther, we arrived at Metemma, a Tokroori +village, in the heart of the mountains, twenty-seven miles from +our last resting-place, and fifty-one miles from our camp on the +Salaam river. From this point to the river Salaam, the entire +country slopes perceptibly to the west--the drainage being +carried to the Atbara by numerous streams. The country that we +had now entered, was inhabited exclusively by Tokrooris, although +belonging to Abyssinia. They came out to meet us upon our arrival +at the village, and immediately fraternised with those of our +people that belonged to their tribe, from whom they quickly +learnt all about us. They brought us a he-goat, together with +milk and honey. The latter we had revelled in for some months +past, as the countries through which we travelled abounded with +a supply in the rocks and hollow trees; but the milk was a +luxury, as our goats were nearly dry. The he-goat was a regular +old patriarch of the flock, and, for those who are fond of +savoury food, it might have been a temptation, but as it exhaled +a perfume that rendered its presence unbearable, we were obliged +to hand it over as a present to our Tokrooris--even they turned +up their noses at the offer. A crowd of natives surrounded us, +and the account of our travels was related with the usual +excitement, amidst the ejaculations of the hearers, when they +heard that we had been in the country of the Base, and had +trusted ourselves in the power of Mek Nimmur. + +On the following morning we were off before sunrise, and marched +rapidly over a good path through low forest, at the foot of a +range of hills; and after a journey of twenty miles, during which +we had passed several small villages, and many brooks that flowed +from the mountains, we arrived at our old friend, the Atbara +river, at the sharp angle as it issues from the mountains. At +this place it was in its infancy. The noble Atbara whose course +we had tracked for hundreds of weary miles, and whose tributaries +we had so carefully examined, was a second-class mountam torrent, +about equal to the Royan, and not to be named in comparison with +the Salaam or Angrab. The power of the Atbara depended entirely +upon the western drainage of the Abyssinian Alps: of itself it +was insignificant, until aided by the great arteries of the +mountain chain. The junction of the Salaam at once changed its +character; and the Settite or Taccazzy completed its importance +as the great river of Abyssinia, that has washed down the fertile +soil of those regions to create the Delta of Lower Egypt; and to +perpetuate that Delta by annual deposits, that ARE NOW FORMING A +NEW EGYPT BENEATH THE WATERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. We had seen +the Atbara a bed of glaring sand--a mere continuation of the +burning desert that surrounded its course, fringed by a belt of +withered trees, like a monument sacred to the memory of a dead +river. We had seen the sudden rush of waters when, in the still +night, the mysterious stream had invaded the dry bed, and swept +all before it like an awakened giant; we knew at that moment "the +rains were falling in Abyssinia," although the sky above us was +without a cloud. We had subsequently witnessed that tremendous +rainfall, and seen the Atbara at its grandest flood. We had +traced each river, and crossed each tiny stream, that fed the +mighty Atbara from the mountain chain, and we now, after our long +journey, forded the Atlara in its infancy, hardly knee deep, over +its rocky bed of about sixty yards width, and camped in the +little village of Toganai, on the rising ground upon the opposite +side. It was evening, and we sat upon an angarep among the lovely +hills that surrounded us, and looked down upon the Atbara for the +last time, as the sun sank behind the rugged mountain of Ras el +Feel (the elephant's head). Once more I thought of that wonderful +river Nile, that could flow for ever through the exhausting +deserts of sand, while the Atbara, during the summer months, +shrank to a dry skeleton, although the powerful affluents, the +Salaam and the Settite, never ceased to flow, every drop of their +waters was evaporated by the air and absorbed by the desert sand +in the bed of the Atbara, two hundred miles above its junction +with the Nile! + +The Atbara exploration was completed; and I looked forward to the +fresh enterprise of new rivers and lower latitudes, that should +unravel the mystery of the Nile! + + +CHAPTER XX. + +ARRIVAL AT METEMMA, OR GALLABAT. + +WE left the village of Toganai at 5 A.M. and, after a rapid march +of sixteen miles, we came in view of Metemma, or Gallabat, in the +bottom of a valley surrounded by hills, and backed on the east by +the range of mountains of which Nahoot Guddabi formed the +extremity of a spur. As we descended the valley, we perceived +great crowds of people in and about the town, which, in +appearance, was merely a repetition of Katariff. It was +market-day, and as we descended the hill and arrived in the scene +below, with our nine camels heavily laden with the heads and +horns of a multitude of different beasts, from the gaping jaws of +hippopotami to the vicious-looking heads of rhinoceros and +buffalo, while the skins of lions and various antelopes were +piled above masses of the much-prized hide of the rhinoceros, we +were beset by crowds of people who were curious to know whence so +strange a party had appeared. We formed a regular procession +through the market, our Tokrooris feeling quite at home among so +many of their brethren. Upon our arrival at the extremity of the +valley, we were horribly disgusted at the appearance of the +water. A trifling stream of about two inches in depth trickled +over a bed of sand, shaded by a grove of trees. The putrefying +bodies of about half a dozen donkeys, three or four camels, and +the remains of a number of horses, lay in and about the margin of +the water. Nevertheless, the natives had scraped small holes in +the sand, as filters, and thus they were satisfied with this +poisonous fluid; in some of these holes, the women were washing +their filthy clothes. I immediately determined to follow up +stream, until I should arrive at some clear spot above these +horrible impurities, that were sufficient to create a pestilence. +Ascending the rising ground, I found on the summit, at about half +a mile distant, an immense sycamore (Ficus sycamorus), whose +green and wide-spreading branches afforded a tempting shade. Not +far from this spot, I found the bed of a dry torrent that flowed +into the poisoned stream of Gallabat. I ordered my men to dig a +deep hole in the sand, which fortunately discovered clear and +good-flavoured water. We immediately pitched tents close to the +sycamore. From this elevation, about a hundred and fifty feet +above Gallabat, we had a beautiful view of the amphitheatre of +hills and mountains, while the crowded town lay below, as in the +bottom of a basin. The Atbara was not far distant in the ravine +between the hill ranges, as it had made a sharp angle at Toganai, +and altered its direction to the north. + +Our arrival had made some stir in Gallabat, and many people had +followed us, and stared with much curiosity at the collection of +hunting trophies. Among our visitors was an Abyssinian merchant, +Jusef, whose acquaintance I had formerly made at Cassala; he was +an agreeable and well-informed man, who had been in Paris and +London and spoke French and English tolerably. I accompanied him +for a stroll through the market, and was introduced by him to a +number of the principal Abyssinian merchants. The principal trade +of Gallabat, which is the market-place for all commerce between +Abyssinia and the Egyptian provinces, is in cotton, coffee, +bees'-wax, and hides. Coffee is brought in large quantities by +the Abyssinian merchants, who buy cotton in exchange, for the +manufacture of clothes according to their own fashion. I bought +a quantity of excellent coffee at the rate of two dollars for +thirty-five pounds, equal to about two and three-quarters pence +a pound. Sheds were arranged in lines; these were occupied by the +coffee merchants with their stores, while a great stock of cotton +in bales, to the number of some thousand, were piled in rows in +an open space. Not far from the mass of goods was a confusion of +camels, asses, and mules that had formed the means of transport. +I now met an Italian merchant, with whom I subsequently became +intimately acquainted, Signor Angelo Bolognesi--he had arrived +from Khartoum to purchase coffee and bees'-wax. We were delighted +to meet a civilized European after so long an absence. For some +months we had had little intercourse with any human beings beyond +the hunters that had composed our party, in countries that were +so wild and savage, that the print of a naked foot upon the sand +had instinctively brought the rifle upon full cock. Our European +society was quickly increased: two German missionaries had +arrived, en ronte for an establishment that had been set on foot +in the heart of Abyssinia, under the very nose of the King +Theodore, who regarded missionaries as an unsavoury odour. Both +were suffering from fever, having foolishly located themselves in +a hut close to the foul stench of dead animals on the margin of +the polluted stream, the water of which they drank. One of these +preachers was a blacksmith, whose iron constitution had entirely +given way, and the little strength that remained, he exhausted in +endless quotations of texts from the Bible, which he considered +applicable to every trifling event or expression. I regretted +that I could not agree with him in the propriety of invading +Abyssinia with Bible extracts, as the natives attached as great +importance to their own particular form of Christianity, as any +other of the numerous sects that unhappily divide that beautiful +religion into schisms; any fresh dogma introduced by strangers +might destroy the union of the Abyssinian Church, and would be +not only a source of annoyance to the priesthood, but would most +probably influence them and the king against all Europeans. + +The blacksmith assured me that the special mission upon which he +was employed was the conversion of the Abyssinian Jews. I +suggested that we had a few Jews in England, that might offer a +fair field for an experiment at home, before we commenced at so +distant a country as Abyssinia; but I could not persuade the +blacksmith, whose head was as hard as his anvil; he had fully +persuaded himself that the word of God (according to HIS OWN +translation of it) was the hammer with which, selon son metier, +he was to drive his views of the truth into the thick skulls of +the people. If he could twist iron, and hammer a ploughshare into +a sword, or reverse the form, why should he be unable to effect +a change in their opinions? It was perfectly useless to continue +the argument; but I prophesied trouble, as the king was already +discontented, and an influx of missionaries would not improve his +humour. I advised him to stick to his trade, which would obtain +for him far more respect than preaching. He replied, that "the +word of God must be preached in all countries; that the Apostle +Paul had encountered dangers and difficulties, but, nevertheless, +he preached to, and converted the heathen," &c. + +Whenever I have met an exceedingly ignorant missionary, he has +invariably compared himself to the Apostle Paul. In half an hour +I found, that I was conversing with St. Paul in the person of the +blacksmith. Whether this excellent apostle is among the captives +in Abyssinia at the present moment, I do not know; but, if so, +their memory of the Bible will be continally refreshed by +quotations, which fly from the tongue of the smith like sparks +from his anvil. His companion was very ill, and incapable of +moving. I went to see the poor fellow upon several occasions, and +found him suffering from dysentery and diseased liver. These +excellent but misguided people had a first-rate medicine chest, +filled with useful drugs and deadly poisons, that had been +provided for them cheaply, by the agent for their society at +Cairo, who had purchased the stock in trade of a defunct doctor. +This had been given to the missionaries, together with the +caution that many of the bottles were not labelled, and that some +contained poison. Thus provided with a medicine chest that they +did not comprehend, and with a number of Bibles printed in the +Tigre language which they did not understand, they were prepared +to convert the Jews, who could not read. The Bibles were to be +distributed as the word of God, like "seed thrown upon the +wayside;" and the medicines, I trust, were to be kept locked up +in the chest, as their distribution might have been fatal to the +poor Jews. These worthy and well-meaning missionaries were +prepared to operate mentally and physically upon the Abyssinians, +to open their minds as well as their bowels; but as their own +(not their minds) were out of order, I was obliged to assist them +by an examination of their medicine-chest, which they had +regarded with such dread and suspicion that, although dangerously +ill, they had not dared to attempt a dose. This medicine-chest +accompanied them like a pet dog suspected of hydrophobia, which +they did not like to part with, and were yet afraid to touch. I +labelled the poisons, and weighed out some doses, that in a few +days considerably relieved them; at the same time I advised the +missionaries to move to a healthier locality, and to avoid the +putrid water. + +On the day following our arrival, I paid a visit to the Sheik of +Gallabat--Jemma. He was ill, as were most people. They were too +much accustomed to the use of the filthy water to trouble +themselves about a pure supply; thus a frightful amount of +sickness was prevalent among all classes. + +The Sheik Jemma was a Tokroori; and as these people hate the +Turks or Egyptians, although fanatical Mussulmans, he was +exceedingly cold when he read my firman, that I had produced as +a passport. He replied to my demand for assistance in men and +camels, that "this was Abyssinia, and the firman of the Viceroy +of Egypt was a bad introduction, as the Egyptians forced them to +pay tribute at the point of the bayonet, although they had no +right to enter this country;" they paid taxes willingly to the +King of Abyssinia, as he had a right to exact them. I explained +that I was an Englishman, and no Turk, but that, as I had +travelled through the dominions of the Viceroy, I had been +favoured with the sign-manual of his Excellency Said Pasha, and +I narrated in a few words the object of our expedition. He paid +very little attention, and merely asked me if I could send him +some goat's milk, as he was very ill. I was astonished at such a +request, as there were great numbers of these animals in the +neighbourhood; but he explained that his doctor had ordered him +to drink the milk of a black goat, and he had heard that I had +two of that colour. I promised him a supply, and he agreed to +assist me in engaging camels and fresh men, as I had formerly +arranged with my people that their term of service should expire +upon our arrival at Gallabat or Metemma. The latter name merely +signifies "the capital:" as many places are designated by the +same word, it creates much confusion. + +The Sheik Jemma was the successor of Hamed, who formerly governed +the Tokrooris. The Egyptians had captured Hamed three years +previously, during which time he had been imprisoned in Cairo. +Upon his release, he wrote to Jemma (who had governed pro +tempore) to prepare for his arrival; but Jemma had no intention +of vacating his seat, and he replied by an impertinent message. +Hamed immediately applied to the Governor-General of the Soudan +for assistance, declaring himself to be the subject of Egypt. +Having obtained a powerful force, he advanced upon Gallabat, and +attacked Jemma, who came out to meet him. This happened about +three months before our arrival. In a pitched battle, the +Tokrooris were defeated with great loss, and Jemma, with the +greater portion of the population, sought the assistance of +Theodore, the king of Abyssinia. Theodore summoned the rival +chiefs before him, and decided that, as Hamed had appealed to +Egypt for assistance, he should lose his seat, and remain a +prisoner in Abyssinia. Accordingly, Jemma was declared to be the +governor of the town of Gallabat, and the sheik over all +Tokrooris. + +The Tokrooris are natives of Darfur, who were converted to +Mahometanism after the conquest of Northern Africa by the Arabs. +They are governed by a sultan in their own country, who strictly +prohibits the entrance of white men; thus Darfur remains +impenetrable to civilization. That country is extremely arid and +unfruitful; thus, as the pilgrims journeyed towards Mecca from +their own inhospitable soil, they passed through a land flowing +with milk and honey, with excellent pasturage and fertile soil, +in the district of Gallabat. As first settlements of men have +always been caused by some local attraction and advantage, so the +Tokroori pilgrims, on their return from Mecca, originally rested +from the fatigues of their journey in the neighbourhood of +Gallabat, as a country preferable to their own. The establishment +of a few settlers formed a nucleus, and, as successive +pilgrimages to Mecca were annually undertaken from Darfur, the +colony rapidly increased by the settlement of the returned +pilgrims. Thus commenced the establishment of a new tribe upon +foreign soil, and, as the numbers of settlers increased to an +important amount, permission was granted by the King of Abyssinia +that they should occupy this portion of his territory, upon +payment of taxes as his subjects. The Tokrooris are a fine, +powerful race, exceedingly black, and of the negro type, but +differing from all negroes that I have hitherto known, as they +are particularly industrious. They are great drunkards, very +quarrelsome, and are bad servants, as, although they will work +hard for themselves, they will do as little as they can for their +master. They are seldom unemployed; and, while the Arab may be +seen lazily stretched under the shade of a tree, the Tokroori +will be spinning cotton, or working at something that will earn +a few piastres. Even during the march, I have frequently seen my +men gather the cotton from some deserted bush, and immediately +improvise a spindle, by sticking a reed through a piece of +camel-dung, with which they would spin the wool into thread, as +they walked with the caravan. My Tokrooris had never been idle +during the time they had been in my service, but they were at +work in the camp during every spare minute, either employed in +making sandals from elephant's or buffalo's hide, or whips and +bracelets from the rhinoceros' skin, which they cleverly +polished. Upon our arrival at Gallabat, they had at least a +camel-load of all kinds of articles they had manufactured. On the +following morning I found them sitting in the market-place, +having established stalls, at which they were selling all the +various trophies of their expedition--fat, hides, whips, sandals, +bracelets, &c. + +The district inhabited by the Tokrooris is about forty miles in +length, including a population of about twenty thousand. +Throughout the country, they have cultivated cotton to a +considerable extent, notwithstanding the double taxes enforced by +both Abyssinians and Egyptians, and their gardens are kept with +extreme neatness. Although of the negro type, the Tokrooris have +not the flat nose; the lips are full, but not to be compared with +those of the negroes of West Africa; neither is the jaw +prognathous. The men are extremely independent in manner. They +are armed with lances of various patterns; their favourite weapon +is a horrible instrument barbed with a diabolical intention, as +it can neither be withdrawn nor pushed completely through the +body, but, if once in the flesh, there it must remain. This is +called the chimbane; it is usually carried with two other lances +with plain heads. The Tokrooris despise shields; therefore, in +spite of their superior personal strength, they would be no match +for the Arabs. + +There is a curious weapon, the trombash, that is used by these +people, somewhat resembling the Australian boomerang; it is a +piece of flat, hard wood, about two feet in length, the end of +which turns sharply at an angle of about 30 degrees. They throw +this with great dexterity, and inflict severe wounds with the +hard and sharp edge; but, unlike the boomerang, the weapon does +not return to the thrower. + +The women are very powerful, but exceedingly plain. They are good +workers, and may be constantly seen either spinning or weaving; +they keep their huts remarkably clean, and are rarely idle. + +The greater portion of the cotton exhibited in the market of +Gallabat is produced by the Tokrooris; it is uncleaned, and +simply packed in mat bales of a hundred pounds weight, which at +that date (April 1862) sold for one dollar each. + +Much might be done to improve these peculiar people. Were the +frontiers of Abyssinia positively determined, and security +insured to the new settlers, the whole of that magnificent +country through which we had travelled between the Settite and +Gallabat might be peopled and cultivated. In many countries, both +soil and climate may be favourable for the cultivation of cotton; +but such natural advantages may be neutralized either by the +absence of population, or by the indolence of the natives. The +Tokroori is a most industrious labourer; and, were he assured of +protection and moderate taxation, he would quickly change the +character of these fertile lands, that are now uninhabited, +except by wild animals. If the emigration of Tokrooris from +Darfur were encouraged, and advantages offered to settlers, by +grants of land for a short term exempt from taxation, at a future +time to bear a certain rate per acre, a multitude of emigrants +would quit their own inhospitable country, and would people the +beautiful waste lands of the Settite and the Salaam. These +countries would produce an important supply of cotton, that might +be delivered at Souakim at an exceedingly low rate, and find a +market in England. Not only would the Tokrooris benefit by the +change, but, should it be decided that the Abyssinian frontier, +instead of extending to the Atbara river, should be confined to +the ridge of the great mountain chain, the revenues of Upper +Egypt might be enormously increased by the establishment of a +Tokroori colony, as proposed. + +I paid all my Tokrooris their wages, and I gave them an +entertainment after their own taste, by purchasing several +enormous bowls of honey wine. The Abyssinians are celebrated for +this drink, which is known as "tetch." It is made of various +strengths; that of good quality should contain, in ten parts, two +of honey and eight of water; but, for a light wine, one of honey +and nine of water is very agreeable. There is a plant of an +intoxicating quality known by the Abyssinians as "jershooa," the +leaves of which are added to the tetch while in a state of +fermentation; a strong infusion of these leaves will render the +tetch exceedingly heady, but without this admixture the honey +wine is by no means powerful. In our subsequent journey in +Central Africa, I frequently made the tetch by a mixture of honey +and water, flavoured with wild thyme and powdered ginger; +fermentation was quickly produced by the addition of yeast from +the native beer, and the wine, after six or eight days, became +excellent, but never very strong, as we could not procure the +leaves of the jershooa. + +My Arabs and Tokrooris enjoyed themselves amazingly, and until +late at night they were playing rababas (guitars) and howling in +thorough happiness; but on the following morning at sunrise I was +disturbed by Wat Gamma, who complained that during the night some +person had stolen three dollars, that had for some months been +carefully sewn up in his clothes; he exhibited the garment that +bore the unmistakeable impression of the dollars, and the +freshly-cut ends of the thread proved that it had been ripped +open very recently. Of course I was magistrate, and in all cases +I was guided by my own code of laws, being at some thousand miles +from an Act of Parliament. + +Wat Gamma had no suspicion of any person in particular, but his +money had evidently been stolen. + +"Who was drunk last night?" I inquired. "We were all drunk," +replied the plaintiff. "Who was very drunk, and who was the least +drunk?" I inquired. This entailed a discussion among the people +who had now assembled. It appeared that most of them had been +"very drunk;" others only a little drunk; and one old +white-headed Arab camel-driver had been perfectly sober, as he +never drank anything but water. This was old Mini, a splendid +specimen of a fine patriarchal Arab; he declared that he had not +even joined the party. Wat Gamma had left his garment rolled up +in the mat upon which he usually slept; this was in the same spot +where the camel-drivers lived, and where old Mini declared he was +fast asleep during the drinking bout. + +I had my suspicions, but to express them would have defeated the +chance of discovery. I therefore adopted my usual rule in cases +of theft. I counted my people: nine camel-men, five Tokrooris, +Taher Noor, and Bacheet; in all sixteen, without Wat Gamma. Three +dollars were sixty piastres,--sixty divided by sixteen equalled +three piastres and thirty paras. Thus I condemned the whole party +to make up the loss, by each paying his share of the amount +stolen, unless the thief could be discovered. + +This plan was generally successful, as the thief was the only man +contented with the arrangement. Every innocent man became a +detective, as he was determined not to pay a fine for another's +theft. A tremendous row took place, every one was talking and no +one listening, and the crowd went away from my court of justice, +determined to search the affair to the bottom. + +In about half an hour they all returned, with the exception of +old Mini; they had searched everywhere, and had found three +dollars concealed in the stuffing of a camel's saddle, that +belonged to Mini. He was the sober man, who had been asleep while +the others were drinking. I considered the case proved; and Mini, +having confessed, requested that I would flog him rather than +deliver him to the Tokroori authorities, who wonld imprison him +and take away his camel. I told him that I would not disgrace his +tribe by flogging one of their oldest men, but that I should take +him before the Sheik of Gallabat, and fine him the amount that he +had stolen. This I immediately did, and Mini handed over to +Jemma, with reluctance, three dollars for the poor-box of +Gallabat, or the private pocket of the sheik, as the case may be. + +On my return to camp I visited the establishments of the various +slave merchants: these were arranged under large tents formed of +matting, and contained many young girls of extreme beauty, +ranging from nine to seventeen years of age. These lovely +captives, of a rich brown tint, with delicately-formed features, +and eyes like those of the gazelle, were natives of the Galla, on +the borders of Abyssinia, from which country they were brought by +the Abyssinian traders to be sold for the Turkish harems. +Although beautiful, these girls are useless for hard labour; they +quickly fade away and die unless kindly treated. They are the +Venuses of that country, and not only are their faces and figures +perfection, but they become extremely attached to those who show +them kindness, and they make good and faithful wives. There is +something peculiarly captivating in the natural grace and +softness of these young beauties, whose hearts quickly respond to +those warmer feelings of love that are seldom known among the +sterner and coarser tribes. Their forms are peculiarly elegant +and graceful--the hands and feet are exquisitely delicate; the +nose is generally slightly aquiline, the nostrils large and +finely shaped; the hair is black and glossy, reaching to about +the middle of the back, but rather coarse in texture. These +girls, although natives of Galla, invariably call themselves +Abyssinians, and are generally known under that denomination. +They are exceedingly proud and high-spirited, and are remarkably +quick at learning. At Khartoum, several of the Europeans of high +standing have married these charming ladies, who have invariably +rewarded their husbands by great affection and devotion. The +price of one of these beauties of nature at Gallabat was from +twenty-five to forty dollars. + +On the 24th April we were refreshed by a shower of rain, and in +a few days the grass sprang from the ground several inches high. +There was an unpleasant dampness in the air, and, although the +rainy season would not commence until June, showers would +occasionally fall among the mountains throughout the month of +May. I accordingly purchased a number of large tanned ox-hides, +that are rendered waterproof by a preparation with milk. These +skins cost the trifling sum of nine piastres each (not two +shillings), and were subsequently of great value during our White +Nile expedition, as coverlets during the night's bivouac, &c. + +The horse-fair was a disappointment. At this season the entire +country in the neighbourhood of Gallabat was subject to an +epidemic, fatal to these animals; therefore there were no good +horses present. I had nothing to detain me at this place, after +having procured fresh camels, therefore I paid all my people, and +we parted excellent friends. To the Arabs and Tokrooris I gave +all the hides of rhinoceros, elephants, &c. that I did not +require, and, with our loads considerably lightened, we started +from Gallabat, 12.30 P.M., 28th April, 1862, and marched due west +towards the river Rahad. The country was hilly and wooded, the +rocks were generally sandstone, and after a march of three hours +we halted at a Tokroori village. I never witnessed more +unprovoked insolence than was exhibited by these people. They +considered me to be a Turk, to whom their natural hatred had been +increased by the chastisement they had lately received from the +Egyptians. It was in vain that my two lads, Wat Gamma and +Bacheet, assured them that I was an Englishman: they had never +heard of such a country as England; in their opinion, a white man +must be a Turk. Not contented with refusing all supplies, they +assembled in large numbers and commenced a quarrel with my men, +several of whom were Tokrooris that I had hired to accompany us +to Khartoum. These men, being newly engaged and entirely strange, +were of little service; but, having joined in the quarrel like +true Tokrooris, who are always ready for a row, the altercation +grew so hot that it became rather serious. The natives determined +that we should not remain in their village, and, having expressed +a threat to turn us out, they assembled around us in a large +crowd with their lances and trombashes. My wife was sitting by me +upon an angarep, when the people closed around my men, and one +very tall specimen of a Tokroori came forward, and, snatching a +knife from its sheath that was worn upon the arm of my servant, +he challenged him to fight. As Tokrooris are always more or less +under the influence of drink, their fights are generally the +effect of some sudden impulse. It was necessary to do something, +as the crowd were determined upon a row; this was now commenced +by their leader, who was eyeing me from head to foot with the +most determined insolence, holding the knife in his hand that he +had taken from my man. I therefore rose quietly from my seat, +and, approaching him to within a convenient distance for +striking, if necessary, I begged him very politely to leave my +people to themselves, as we should depart on the following +morning. He replied with great impertinence, and insisted upon +fighting one or all of our party. I accommodated him without a +moment's delay, as, stepping half a pace backwards, I came in +with a left and right as fast as a rapid double-hit could be +delivered, with both blows upon his impudent mouth. In an instant +he was on his back, with his heels in the air; and, as I prepared +to operate upon his backer, or upon any bystander who might have +a penchant for fighting, the crowd gave way, and immediately +devoted themselves to their companion, who lay upon the ground in +stupid astonishment, with his fingers down his throat searching +for a tooth; his eyes were fixed upon my hands to discover the +weapon with which he had been wounded. His friends began to wipe +the blood from his face and clothes, and at this juncture the +sheik of the village appeared for the first time. + +To my astonishment he was extremely civil; a sudden reaction had +taken place, the Tokrooris had had their row, and were apparently +satisfied. The sheik begged me not to kill his people by hitting +them, "as they were mere chickens, who would at once die if I +were to strike them with my fist." I begged him to keep his +"chickens" in better order, and at once to order them away from +our immediate neighbourhood. In a few minutes the sheik drove the +crowd away, who picked up their man and led him off. The sheik +then begged us to accept a hut for the night, and he paid us +every attention. + +On the following morning, we left shortly after sunrise; the +natives very civilly assisted to load our camels, and among the +most active was my fighting friend of yesterday, who, with his +nose and mouth all swollen into one, had been rapidly converted +from a well-featured Tokroori into a real thick-lipped, +flat-nosed African nigger, with prognathous jaw, that would have +delighted the Ethnological Society. + +"April 29.--It rained hard during the night. Our course was due +west, along the banks of a hor, from which the natives procure +water by sinking wells about twelve feet deep in the sandy bed, +which is dry in the hot season. Throughout this country the water +is bad. At 11 A.M. we reached Roumele; this is the last village +between Gallabat and the river Rahad. The natives say that there +is no water on the road, and their accounts of the distance are +so vague and contradictory that I cannot rely upon the +information. + +"I could procure only one water-skin, and none of my old stock +were serviceable; I therefore arranged to water all the animals, +and push on throughout the night, by which plan I hoped to arrive +by a forced march at the Rahad on the following morning, without +exhausting both men and beasts by a long journey through an +unknown distance in the heat of the sun. Hardly were the horses +watered at a well in the dry bed of the stream, when Aggahr was +taken ill with inflammation. I left two men to attend upon him, +with orders to bring him on if better on the following day: we +started on our journey, but we had not proceeded a quarter of a +mile when Gazelle, that I was riding, was also seized with +illness, and fell down; with the greatest difficulty I led the +horse back again to the village. My good old hunter Aggahr died +in great agony a few minutes after our return, and Gazelle died +during the night; the natives declared this to be the horse +sickness that was annually prevalent at this season. The disease +appeared to be inflammation of the bowels, which I attributed to +the sudden change of food; for months past they had lived +principally upon dry grass, but within the past few days they had +greedily eaten the young herbage that had appeared after a few +showers; with this, may have been poisonous plants that they had +swallowed unawares. We had now only one horse, Tetel, that was +ridden by my wife; I therefore determined to start on foot on the +following morning, and to set the pace at four miles an hour, so +as to reach the Rahad by a forced march in one rapid stretch, and +thus to eke out our scanty supply of water. Accordingly we +started, and marched at that rate for ten hours, including a halt +when half-way, to rest for one hour and a half. Throughout the +distance, the country was a dead flat of the usual rich soil, +covered with mimosa forest. We marched thirty-four miles, +steering due west for a distant hill, which in the morning had +been a faint blue streak upon the horizon. + +"Upon our arrival at the hill, we found that the river was some +miles beyond, while a fine rugged mountain that we had seen for +two days previous rose about fifteen miles south of this point, +and formed an unmistakeable landmark; the name of this mountain +is Hallowa. We had marched with such rapidity across this stretch +of thirty-four miles, that our men were completely exhausted from +thirst, as they had foolishly drunk their share of water at the +middle of the journey, instead of reserving it for the moment of +distress. Upon arrival at the Rahad they rushed down the steep +bank, and plunged into the clear water of the river. + +"The Rahad does not exceed eighty or ninety yards in breadth. The +rain that had recently fallen in the mountain had sent a +considerable stream down the hitherto dry bed, although the +bottom was not entirely covered. By dead reckoning, this point of +the river is fifty-five miles due west from Gallabat or Metemma; +throughout this distance we had seen no game, neither the tracks +of any animals except giraffes. We were rather hard up for +provisions, therefore I took my rod, and tried for a fish in a +deep pool below the spot where we had pitched the tent. I only +had one run, but I fortunately landed a handsome little baggar +about twelve pounds weight, which afforded us a good dinner. The +river Dinder is between fifty and sixty miles from the Rahad at +this point, but towards the north the two rivers approximate +closely, and keep a course almost parallel. The banks of the +Rahad are in many places perpendicular, and are about forty-five +feet above the bed. This river flows through rich alluvial soil; +the country is a vast level plane, with so trifling a fall that +the current of the river is gentle; the course is extremely +circuitous, and although, when bank full, the Rahad possesses a +considerable volume, it is very inferior as a Nile tributary to +any river that I have visited to the east of Gallabat." + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY ON THE BANKS OF THE RAHAD. + +WE daily followed the banks of the Rahad, the monotony of which +I will not inflict upon the public. This country was a vast tract +of wonderfully fertile prairie, that nearly formed an island, +surrounded by the Rahad, Blue Nile, Great Nile, and Atbara; it +was peopled by various tribes of Arabs, who cultivated a +considerable extent upon the banks of the Rahad, which for +upwards of a hundred miles to the north were bordered with +villages at short intervals. Cotton and tobacco were produced +largely, and we daily met droves of camels laden with these +goods, en route for the Abyssinian market. We had now fairly +quitted Abyssinian territory, and upon our arrival at the Rahad +we were upon the soil of Upper Egypt. I was much struck with the +extraordinary size and condition of the cattle. Corn (dhurra) was +so plentiful that it was to be purchased in any quantity for +eight piastres the rachel, or about 1s. 8d. for 500 pounds; +pumpkins were in great quantities, with a description of gourd +with an exceedingly strong shell, which is grown especially for +bowls and other utensils; camel-loads of these gourd-basins +packed in conical crates were also journeying on the road towards +Gallabat. Throughout the course of the Rahad the banks are high, +and, when full, the river would average forty feet in depth, with +a gentle stream, the course free from rocks and shoals, and +admirably adapted for small steamers. + +The entire country would be a mine of wealth were it planted with +cotton, which could be transported by camels to Katariff, and +thence direct to Souakim. We travelled for upwards of a hundred +miles along the river, through the unvarying scene of flat +alluvial soil; the south bank was generally covered with low +jungle. The Arabs were always civil, and formed a marked contrast +to the Tokrooris; they were mostly of the Roofar tribe. Although +there had been a considerable volume of water in the river at the +point where we had first met it, the bed was perfectly dry about +fifty miles farther north, proving the great power of absorption +by the sand. The Arabs obtained water from deep pools in the +river, similar to those in the Atbara, but on a small scale, of +not sufficient importance to contain hippopotami, which at this +season retired to the river Dinder. Wherever we slept we were +besieged by gaping crowds of Arabs: these people were quite +unaccustomed to strangers, as the route we had chosen along the +banks of the Rahad was entirely out of the line adopted by the +native merchants and traders of Khartoum, who travelled via Abou +Harraz and Katariff to Gallabat. These Arabs were, as usual, +perfectly wild, and ignorant of everything that did not +immediately concern them. My compass had always been a source of +wonder to the natives, and I was asked whether by looking into it +I rould distinguish the "market days" of the different villages. +My own Tokrooris continually referred to me for information on +various topics, and, if I declined to reply, they invariably +begged me to examine my moondera (mirror), as they termed the +compass, and see what it would say. This country swarmed with +Arabs, and abounded in supplies: superb fat oxen were seven +dollars each; large fowls were a penny; and eggs were at the rate +of nine for a penny farthing. + +We arrived at a large village, Sherrem, on May 11, having marched +118 miles in a straight line along the course of the Rahad. The +heat was extreme, but I had become so thoroughly accustomed to +the sun that I did not feel it so much as my men, whose heads +were covered with a thin cap of cotton (the tageea). My camel-men +had expected to find their families at a village that we had +passed about six miles from Sherrem, and they had been rejoicing +in anticipation, but on arrival we found it deserted,--"family +out of town;" the men were quite dejected; but upon arrival at +Sherrem they found all their people, who had migrated for water, +as the river was dry. We waited at Sherrem for a couple of days +to rest the men, whose feet were much swollen with marching on +the burning soil. Although frequent showers had fallen at +Gallabat, we had quickly entered the dry country upon steering +north, where neither dew nor rain had moistened the ground for +many months. The country was treeless on the north bank of the +Rahad, and the rich alluvial soil was free from a single stone or +pebble for many miles. Although for 118 miles we had travelled +along the course of the Rahad, throughout this distance only one +small brook furrowed the level surface and added its waters +during the rainy season to the river; the earth absorbed the +entire rainfall. Our camels were nearly driven mad by the flies +which swarmed throughout the fertile districts. + +On the 15th of May we arrived at Kook, a small village on the +banks of the Rahad, and on the following morning we started to +the west for the river Dinder. The country was the usual rich +soil, but covered with high grass and bush; it was uninhabited, +except by wandering Arabs and their flocks, that migrate at the +commencement of the rainy season, when this land becomes a mere +swamp, and swarms with the seroot fly. At 6.30 we halted, and +slept on the road. This was the main route to Sennaar, from which +place strings of camels were passing to the Rahad, to purchase +corn. On the 16th of May, we started by moonlight at 4.30 A.M. +due west, and at 7.30 A.M. we arrived at the river Dinder, which, +at this point, was eighteen miles from the village of Kook, on +the Rahad. + +We joined a camp of the Kunana Arabs, who at this season throng +the banks of the Dinder. This river is similar in character to +the Rahad, but larger: the average breadth is about a hundred and +ten yards: the banks are about fifty feet high, and the immediate +vicinity is covered with thick jungle of nabbuk and thorny +acacias, with a great quantity of the Acacia Arabica, that +produces the garra, already described as valuable for tanning +leather. I made ink with this fruit, pounded and boiled, to which +I added a few rusty nails, and allowed it to stand for about +twenty-four hours. The Dinder was exceedingly deep in many +places, although in others the bed was dry, with the exception of +a most trifling stream that flowed through a narrow channel in +the sand, about an inch in depth. The Arabs assured me that the +crocodiles in this river were more dangerous than in any other, +and their flocks of goats and sheep were attended by a great +number of boys, to prevent the animals from descending to the +water to drink, except in such places as had been prepared for +them by digging small holes in the sand. I saw many of these +creatures, of very large size; and, as I strolled along the banks +of the river, I found a herd of hippopotami, of which I shot two, +to the great delight of my people, who had been much disappointed +at the absence of game throughout our journey from Gallabat. We +had travelled upwards of 200 miles without having seen so much as +a gazelle, neither had we passed any tracks of large game, +except, upon one occasion, those of a few giraffes. I had been +told that the Dinder country was rich in game, but, at this +season, it was swarming with Arabs, and was so much disturbed +that everything had left the country, and the elephants merely +drank during the night, and retreated to distant and impenetrable +jungles. At night we heard a lion roar, but this, instead of +being our constant nightingale, as upon the Settite river, was +now an uncommon sound. The maneless lion is found on the banks of +the Dinder; all that I saw, in the shape of game, in the +neighbourhood of that river and the Rahad, were a few hippopotami +and crocodiles. The stream of the Dinder is obstructed with many +snags and trunks of fallen trees that would be serious obstacles +to rapid navigation: these are the large stems of the soont +(Acacia Arabica), that, growing close to the edge, have fallen +into the river when the banks have given way. I was astonished at +the absence of elephants in such favourable ground; for some +miles I walked along the margin of the river without seeing a +track of any date. Throughout this country, these animals are so +continually hunted that they have become exceedingly wary, and +there can be little doubt that their numbers are much reduced. +Even in the beautiful shooting country comprised between the +river Gash and Gallabat, although we had excellent sport, I had +been disappointed at the number of elephants, which I had +expected to find in herds of many hundreds, instead of forty or +fifty, which was the largest number that I had seen together. The +habits of all animals generally depend upon the nature of the +localities they inhabit. Thus, as these countries were subject to +long drought and scarcity of water, the elephants were, in some +places, contented with drinking every alternate day. Where they +were much hunted by the aggageers, they would seldom drink twice +consecutively in the same river; but, after a long draught in the +Settite, they would march from twenty-five to thirty miles, and +remain for a day between that river and the Mareb or Gash, to +which they would hurry on the following night. At other times, +these wily animals would drink in the Settite, and retire to the +south; feeding upon Mek Nimmur's corn-fields, they would hurry +forward to the river Salaam, about thirty miles distant, and from +thence, in a similar manner, either to the Atbara on one side, or +into the Abyssinian mountains, where, at all times, they could +procure a supply of water. I have frequently discovered fresh +grains of dhurra in their dung, at a great distance from the +nearest corn-field; when the rapid digestion of the elephant is +considered, it must be allowed that the fresh dung found in the +morning bore witness to the theft of corn during the past night; +thus the elephant had marched many miles after feeding. In the +"Rifle and Hound in Ceylon," published in 1854, I gave a detailed +description of the elephants of that country, which, although +peculiar in the general absence of tusks, are the same as the +Indian species. + +Although the elephant is found throughout many countries, +extending over an enormous area, there are only two species at +present in existence,--the Indian and African; these are totally +different in their habits, and are distinguished by peculiarities +of form. The most striking difference is in the shape of the head +and spine. The head of the Indian species is perfectly distinct; +the forehead, when held in the natural position of inaction, is +perpendicular; and above the slight convexity at the root of the +trunk there is a depression, in shape like a herald's shield: a +bullet in the lower portion of that shield would reach the brain +in a direct line. The head of the African elephant is completely +convex from the commencement of the trunk to the back of the +skull, and the brain is situated much lower than in that of the +Indian species; the bone is of a denser quality, and the cases +for the reception of the tusks are so closely parallel, that +there is barely room for a bullet to find a chance of penetrating +to the brain; it must be delivered in the exact centre, and +extremely low, in the very root of the trunk; even then it will +frequently pass above the brain, as the animal generally carries +his head high, and thrown slightly back. The teeth of the African +elephant differ materially from those of the Indian, by +containing a lesser number of laminae or plates, the surfaces of +which, instead of exhibiting straight and parallel lines like +those of the Indian, are shaped in slight curves, which increase +the power of grinding. The ears of the African species are +enormous, and when thrown back they completely cover the +shoulders; they are also entirely different in shape from those +of the Indian species. When an African bull elephant advances in +full charge with his ears cocked, his head measures about +fourteen feet from the tip of one ear to that of the other, in a +direct line across the forehead. I have frequently cut off the +ear to form a mat, upon which I have slept beneath the shade of +a tree, while my people divided the animal. + +The back of the Indian elephant is exceedingly convex; that of +the African is exactly the reverse, and the concavity behind the +shoulders is succeeded by a peculiarity in the sudden rise of the +spine above the hips. The two species are not only distinct in +certain peculiarities of form, but they differ in their habits. +The Indian elephant dislikes the sun, and invariably retreats to +thick shady forests at sunrise; but I have constantly found the +African species enjoying themselves in the burning sun in the +hottest hours of the day, among plains of withered grass, many +miles from a jungle. The African is more active than the Indian, +and not only is faster in his movements, but is more capable of +enduring long marches, as proved by the great distances through +which it travels to seek its food in the native's corn-fields. In +all countries, the bulls are fiercer than the females. I cannot +see much difference in character between the Indian and the +African species; it is the fashion for some people to assert that +the elephant is an innocent and harmless creature, that, like the +giraffe it is almost a sin to destroy. I can only say that, +during eight years' experience in Ceylon, and nearly five years' +in Africa, I have found that elephants are the most formidable +animals with which a sportsman has to contend. The African +species is far more dangerous than the Indian, as the forehead +shot can never be trusted; therefore the hunter must await the +charge with a conviction that his bullet will fail to kill. + +The African elephant is about a foot higher than the average of +the Indian species. The bulls of the former are about ten feet +six inches at the shoulder; the females are between nine feet and +nine feet six. Of course there are many bulls that exceed this +height, and I have seen some few of both species that might equal +twelve feet, but those are the exceptional Goliaths. + +The tusks of elephants vary considerably, and there appears to be +no rule to determine a reason for their size and quality. In +Abyssinia and Taka, a single tusk of a bull elephant seldom +exceeds forty pounds, nor do they average more than twenty-five, +but in Central Africa they average about forty, and I have seen +them upwards of one hundred and fifty pounds. The largest that I +have had the good fortune to bag was eighty pounds; the +fellow-tusk was slightly below seventy. Elephants invariably use +one tusk in preference, as we use the right hand; thus it is +difficult to obtain an exact pair, as the Hadam (or servant), as +the Arabs call the working tusk, is generally much worn. The +African elephant is a more decided tree-feeder than the Indian, +and the destruction committed by a large herd of such animals +when feeding in a mimosa forest is extraordinary; they +deliberately march forward, and uproot or break down every tree +that excites their appetite. The mimosas are generally from +sixteen to twenty feet high, and, having no tap-root, they are +easily overturned by the tusks of the elephants, which are driven +like crowbars beneath the roots, and used as levers, in which +rough labour they are frequently broken. Upon the overthrow of a +tree, the elephants eat the roots and leaves, and strip the bark +from the branches by grasping them with their rough trunks. + +The African elephant is equally docile as the Indian, when +domesticated, but we have no account of a negro tribe that has +ever tamed one of these sagacious animals: their only maxim is +"kill and eat." Although the flesh of the elephant is extremely +coarse, the foot and trunk are excellent, if properly cooked. A +hole should be dug in the earth, about four feet deep, and two +feet six inches in diameter, the sides of which should be +perpendicular; in this a large fire should be lighted, and kept +burning for four or five hours with a continual supply of wood, +so that the walls become red-hot. At the expiration of the blaze, +the foot should be laid upon the glowing embers, and the hole +covered closely with thick pieces of green wood laid parallel +together to form a ceiling; this should be covered with wet +grass, and the whole plastered with mud, and stamped tightly down +to retain the heat. Upon the mud, a quantity of earth should be +heaped, and the oven should not be opened for thirty hours, or +more. At the expiration of that time, the foot will be perfectly +baked, and the sole will separate like a shoe, and expose a +delicate substance that, with a little oil and vinegar, together +with an allowance of pepper and salt, is a delicious dish that +will feed about fifty men. + +The Arabs are particularly fond of elephant's flesh, as it is +generally fat and juicy. I have frequently used the fat of the +animal for cooking, but it should be taken from the body without +delay; as, if left for a few hours, it partakes of the peculiar +smell of the elephant, which no amount of boiling will overcome. +The boiling of fat for preservation requires much care, as it +should attain so great a heat that a few drops of water thrown +upon the surface will hiss and evaporate as though cast upon +molten metal; it should then be strained, and, when tolerably +cool, be poured into vessels, and secured. No salt is necessary, +provided it is thoroughly boiled. When an animal is killed, the +flesh should be properly dried, before boiling down, otherwise +the fat will not melt thoroughly, as it will be combined with the +water contained in the body. The fat should be separated as well +as possible from the meat; it should then be hung in long strips +upon a line and exposed in the sun to dry; when nearly dried, it +should be cut into pieces of about two inches in length, and +placed in a large vessel over a brisk fire, and kept constantly +stirred. As the fat boils out from the meat, the residue should +be taken out with a pierced ladle; this, when cool, should be +carefully preserved in leathern bags. This is called by the Arabs +"reveet," a supply of which is most valuable, as a quantity can +be served out to each man during a long march when there is no +time to halt; it can be eaten without bread, and it is extremely +nourishing. With a good supply of reveet in store, the traveller +need not be nervous about his dinner. Dried meat should also be +kept in large quantities; the best is that of the giraffe and +hippopotamus, but there is some care required in preparing the +first quality. It should be cut from portions of the animals as +free as possible from sinews, and should be arranged in long thin +strips of the diameter of about an inch and a quarter; these +ribbon-like morsels should be hung in the shade. When nearly dry, +they should be taken down, and laid upon a flat rock, upon which +they should be well beaten with a stone, or club of hard wood; +this breaks the fibre; after which they should be hung up and +thoroughly dried, care being taken that the flesh is not exposed +to the sun. If many flies are present, the flesh should be +protected by the smoke of fires lighted to windward. + +When meat is thus carefully prepared, it can be used in various +ways, and is exceedingly palatable; if pounded into small pieces +like coarse sawdust, it forms an admirable material for curry and +rice. The Arabs make a first-class dish of melach, by mixing a +quantity of pounded dried meat with a thick porridge of dhurra +meal, floating in a soup of barmian (waker), with onions, salt, +and red peppers; this is an admirable thing if the party is +pressed for time (if not too hot, as a large quantity can be +eaten with great expedition. As the Arabs are nomadic, they have +a few simple but effective arrangements for food during the +journey. For a fortnight preparatory to an expedition, the women +are busily engaged in manufacturing a supply of abrey. This is +made in several methods: there is the sour, and the sweet abrey; +the former is made of highly-fermented dhurra paste that has +turned intensely acid; this is formed into thin wafers, about +sixteen inches in diameter, upon the doka or hearth, and dried in +the sun until the abrey has become perfectly crisp; the wafers +are then broken up with the hands, and packed in bags. There is +no drink more refreshing than water poured over a handful of sour +abrey, and allowed to stand for half an hour; it becomes +pleasantly acid, and is superior to lemonade. The residue is +eaten by the Arabs: thus the abrey supplies both meat and drink. +The finest quality of sweet abrey is a very delicate affair; the +flour of dhurra must be well sifted; it is then mixed with milk +instead of water, and, without fermenting, it is formed into thin +wafers similar to those eaten with ice-creams in this country, +but extremely large; these are dried in the sun, and crushed like +the sour abrey; they will keep for months if kept dry in a +leathern bag. A handful of sweet abrey steeped in a bowl of hot +milk, with a little honey, is a luxurious breakfast; nothing can +be more delicious, and it can be prepared in a few minutes during +the short halt upon a journey. With a good supply of abrey and +dried meat, the commissariat arrangements are wonderfully +simplified, and a party can march a great distance without much +heavy baggage to impede their movements. + +The flesh that is the least adapted for drying is that of the +buffalo (Bos Caffer), which is exceedingly tough and coarse. +There are two species of the Bos Caffer in Abyssinia and Central +Africa, which, similar in general appearance, differ in the +horns; that which resembles the true Bos Caffer of South Africa +has very massive convex horns that unite in front, and completely +cover the forehead as with a shield; the other variety has +massive, but perfectly flat horns of great breadth, that do not +quite unite over the os frontis, although nearly so; the flatness +of the horns continues in a rough surface, somewhat resembling +the bark of a tree, for about twelve inches; the horns then +become round, and curve gracefully inwards, like those of the +convex species. Buffaloes are very dangerous and determined +animals; but, although more accidents occur in hunting these than +any other variety of game, I cannot admit that they are such +formidable opponents as the elephant and black rhinoceros; they +are so much more numerous than the latter, that they are more +frequently encountered: hence the casualties. + +A buffalo can always be killed with a No. 10 rifle and six +drachms of powder when charging, if the hunter will only wait +coolly until it is so close that he cannot miss the forehead; but +the same rifle will fail against an African elephant, or a black +rhinoceros, as the horns of the latter animal effectually protect +the brain from a front shot. I have killed some hundreds of +buffaloes, and, although in many cases they have been +unpleasantly near, the rifle has always won the day. There cannot +be a more convenient size than No. 10 for a double rifle, for +large game. This will throw a conical projectile of three ounces, +with seven drachms of powder. Although a breechloader is a +luxury, I would not have more than a pair of such rifles in an +expedition in a wild country, as they would require more care in +a damp climate than the servants would be likely to bestow upon +them, and the ammunition would be a great drawback. This should +be divided into packets of ten cartridges each, which should be +rolled up in flannel and hermetically sealed in separate tin +canisters. Thus arranged, they would be impervious to damp, and +might be carried conveniently. But I should decidedly provide +myself with four double-barrelled muzzle-loading No. 10's as my +regular battery; that, if first class, would never get out of +order. Nothing gives such confidence to the gun-bearers as the +fact of their rifles being good slayers, and they quickly learn +to take a pride in their weapons, and to strive in the race to +hand the spare rifles. Dust storms, such as I have constantly +witnessed in Africa, would be terrible enemies to breech-loaders, +as the hard sand, by grating in the joints, would wear away the +metal, and destroy the exactness of the fittings. + +A small handy double rifle, such as my little Fletcher 24, not +exceeding eight pounds and a half, is very necessary, as it +should seldom be out of the hand. Such a rifle should be a +breech-loader, as the advantage of loading quickly while on +horseback is incalculable. Hunting-knives should be of soft +steel, similar to butchers' knives; but one principal knife to be +worn daily should be of harder steel, with the back of the blade +roughed and case-hardened like a butcher's steel, for sharpening +other knives when required. + +All boxes for rough travelling should be made of strong metal, +japanned. These are a great comfort, as they are proof both +against insects and weather, and can be towed with their contents +across a river. + +Travelling is now so generally understood, that it is hardly +necessary to give any instructions for the exploration of wild +countries; but a few hints may be acceptable upon points that, +although not absolutely essential, tend much to the comfort of +the traveller. A couple of large carriage umbrellas with double +lining, with small rings fixed to the extremities of the ribs, +and a spike similar to that of a fishing-rod to screw into the +handle, will form an instantaneous shelter from sun or rain +during a halt on the march, as a few strings from the rings will +secure it from the wind, if pegged to the ground. Waterproof +calico sheeting should be taken in large quantities, and a +tarpaulin to protect the baggage during the night's bivouac. No +vulcanised India-rubber should be employed in tropical climates; +it rots, and becomes useless. A quart syringe for injecting brine +into fresh meat is very necessary. In hot climates, the centre of +the joint will decompose before the salt can penetrate to the +interior, but an injecting syringe will thoroughly preserve the +meat in a few minutes. A few powerful fox-traps are useful for +catching night-game in countries where there is no large game for +the rifle: also wire is useful for making springs. + +Several sticks of Indian-ink are convenient, as sufficient can be +rubbed up in a few moments to write up the note-book during the +march. All journals and note-books should be of tinted paper, +green, as the glare of white paper in the intense sunlight of the +open sky is most trying to the eyes. Burning glasses and flint +and steels are very necessary. Lucifer matches are dangerous, as +they may ignite and destroy your baggage in dry weather, and +become utterly useless in the damp. + +A large supply of quicksilver should be taken for the admixture +with lead for hardening bullets, in addition to that required for +the artificial horizon; the effect of this metal is far greater +than a mixture of tin, as the specific gravity of the bullet is +increased. + +Throughout a long experience in wild sports, although I admire +the velocity of conical projectiles, I always have retained my +opinion that, in jungle countries, where in the absence of dogs +you require either to disable your game on the spot, or to +produce a distinct blood-track that is easily followed, the +old-fashioned two-groove belted ball will bag more game than +modern bullets; but, on the other hand, the facility of loading +a conical bullet already formed into a cartridge is a great +advantage. The shock produced by a pointed projectile is nothing +compared to that of the old belted ball, unless it is on the +principle of Purday's high velocity expanding bullet, which, +although perfection for deer-shooting, would be useless against +thick-skinned animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. In Africa, +the variety of game is such, that it is impossible to tell, when +loading, at what animal the bullet will be fired; therefore, it +is necessary to be armed with a rifle suitable for all comers. My +little Fletcher was the Enfield bore, No. 24, and, although a +most trusty weapon, the bullets generally failed to penetrate the +skull of hippopotami, except in places where the bone was thin, +such as behind the ear, and beneath the eyes. Although I killed +great numbers of animals with the Enfield bullet, the success was +due to tolerably correct shooting, as I generally lost the larger +antelopes if wounded by that projectile in any place but the +neck, head, or shoulder; the wound did not bleed freely, +therefore it was next to impossible to follow up the blood-track; +thus a large proportion of wounded animals escaped. + +I saw, and shot, thirteen varieties of antelopes while in Africa. +Upon arrival at Khartoum, I met Herr von Heuglin, who commanded +the expedition in search of Dr. Vogel; he was an industrious +naturalist, who had been many years in the Soudan and in +Abyssinia. We compared notes of all we had seen and done, and he +very kindly supplied me with a list of all the antelopes that he +had been able to trace as existing in Abyssinia and the Soudan; +he now included my maarif, which he had never met with, and which +he agreed was a new species. In the following list, which is an +exact copy of that which he had arranged, those marked with an +asterisk are species that I have myself shot:-- + +Catalogue des especes du genre "ANTILOPE," observees en Egypte, +dans la Nubie, au Soudan orientale et en Abissinie. + +A.--GAZELLA, Blains. + +1.--Spec. G. Dorcas.* Arab. Ghasal. + +2.--G. Arabica,* Ehr. A la cote de la Mer rouge. + +3.--G. Loevipes, Sund. Arab. Abou Horabet? Nubie, Taka, Sennaar, +Kordofan. + +4.--G. spec. (?) en Tigreh Choquen (Bogos). + +5.--G. Dama,* Licht. Arab. Adra, Ledra. Riel, Bajouda, Berber, +Sennaar, Kordofan. + +6.--G. Soemmeringii, Rupp. Arab. Om Oreba. Tigreh, Arab. Taka, +Massowa, Gedaref, Berber, Sennaar. + +7.--G. Leptoceros. Arab. Abou Harab. Gazelle a longues cornes, +minces et paralleles. Bajouda, Berber, Taka, Sennaar, Kordofan. + +B.--CALOTRAGUS, Luad. + +8.--C. montanus,* Rupp. Arab. Otrab and El Mor. Amhar, Fiego, +Sennaar, Abissinie, Taka, Galabat. + +9.--C. Saltatrix, Forst. Amhar. Sasa. Abissinie. + +C.--NANOTRAGUS, Wagn. + +10.--N. Hemprichianus, Ehr. Arab. Om dig dig. Abissinie orientale +et occidentale, Taka, Kordofan. + +D.--CEPHALOLOPHUS, H. Smith. + +11.--C. Madaqua. Amhar. Midakoua. Galabat, Barka, Abissinie. + +12, 13.--Deux especes inconnues du Fleuve blanc, nominees par les +Djenkes, "Amok." + +E.--REDUNCA. + +14.--R. Eleotragus, Schrb. Djenke, Bor. Bahr el Abiad. + +15.--R. Behor, Rupp. Amhar. Behor. Abissinie centrale, Kordofan. + +16.--R. Kull, nov. spec. Djenke, Koul. Bahr el Abiad. + +17.--R. leucotis, Peters et Licht. Djenke, Adjel. Bahr el Abiad, +Saubat. + +18.--R. Wuil, nov. spec. Djenke, Ouil. Bahr el Abiad, Saubat. + +19.--R. Lechee,* Gray. Bahr el Abiad. + +20.--R. megcerosa,* Heuglin. Kobus Maria, Gray. Djenke, Abok, +Saubat, Bahr el Abiad et Bahr Ghazal. + +21.--R. Defassa,* Rupp. Arab. Om Hetehet. Amhar. Dofasa. Djenke, +Bor. Bahr el Salame, Galabat, Kordofan, Bahr el Abiad, Dender, +Abissinie occidentale et centrale. + +22.--R. ellipsiprymna, Ogilby. Djenke, Bor. Bahr el Abiad. + +F.--HIPPOTRAGUS, Sund. + +23.--H. niger, Harris. Arab. Abou Maarif. Kordofan meridionale, +fleuve Blanc (Chilouk). + +24.--H. nov. spec. Arab. Abou Maarif.*--Bakerii.* Bahr el Salaam, +Galabat Dender, fleuve BIeu, Sennaar meridionale. + +25.--H. Beisa, Rupp. Arab. Beisa et Damma. Souakim, Massowa, +Danakil, Somauli, Kordofan. + +26.--H. ensicornis, Ehr. Arab. Ouahoh el bagr. Nubie, Berber, +Kordofan. + +27.--H. Addax, Licht. Arab. Akach. Bajouda, Egypte occidentale +(Oasis de Siouah). + +G.--TAUROTRAGUS, Wagn. + +28.--T. Orcas, Pall. (Antilope Canna). Djenke, Goualgonal. Bahr +el Abiad. + +29.--T. gigas, nov. spec. Chez les pleuplades Atoats, au Bahr el +Abiad. + +H.--TRAGELAPHUS, Blains. + +30.--Tr. strepsiceros (Pallas). Arab. Nellet, Miremreh. Tigreh, +Garona. Ambar. Agazen. Abissinie, Sennaar, Homran, Galabat, +Kordofan. + +31.--Tr. sylvaticus, Spaerm. Bahr el Abiad. + +32.--Tr. Dekula, Rupp. Amhar. Dekoula. Arab. Houch. Djenke, Ber. +Taka, Abissinie, Bahr el Abiad. + +I.--BUBALIS. + +33.--B. Mauritanica, Sund. (Antilope Bubalis, Cuvier). Arab. +Tetel; Tigreh, Tori. Taka, Homran, Barka, Galabat, Kordofan, Bahr +el Abiad. + +34.--B. Caama, Cuv. Arab. Tetel. Djenke, Awalwon. Bahr el Abiad, +Kordofan meridionale. + +35.--B. Senegalensis, H. Smith. Bahr el Abiad. + +36.--B. Tiang, nov. spec. Djenke, Tian. Bahr el Abiad, Bahr +Ghazal. + +37.--B. Tian-riel, nov. spec. Bahr el Abiad. + +SPECIES INCERTAE + +"Soada," au Oualkait et Mareb (Taurotragus?). + +"Uorobo," au Godjam, Agow (Hippotragus). + +"Ouoadembi." March, Oualkait (Hippotragus). + +"El Mor." Sennaar, Fazogle (Nanotragus?). + +"El Khondieh." Kordofan (Redunca?). + +"Om Khat." Kordofan (Gazella?). + +"El Hamra." Kordofan, Bajouda (Gazella?). + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +WE LEAVE THE DINDER. + +FOR some days we continued our journey along the banks of the +Dinder, and as the monotonous river turned towards the junction +with the Blue Nile, a few miles distant, we made a direct cut +across the flat country, to cross the Rahad and arrive at Abou +Harraz on the Blue Nile. We passed numerous villages and +extensive plantations of dhurra that were deserted by the Arabs, +as the soldiers had arrived to collect the taxes. I measured the +depths of the wells, seventy-five feet and a half, from the +surface to the bottom; the alluvial soil appeared to continue the +whole distance, until the water was discovered resting upon hard +sand, full of small particles of mica. During the march over a +portion of the country that had been cleared by burning, we met +a remarkably curious hunting-party. A number of the common black +and white stork were hunting for grasshoppers and other insects, +but mounted upon the back of each stork was a large +copper-coloured flycatcher, which, perched like a rider on his +horse, kept a bright look-out for insects, which from its +elevated position it could easily discover upon the ground. I +watched them for some time: whenever the storks perceived a +grasshopper or other winged insect, they chased it on foot, but +if they missed their game, the flycatchers darted from their +backs and flew after the insects like falcons, catching them in +their beaks, and then returning to their steeds to look out for +another opportunity. + +On the evening of the 23d May we arrived at the Rahad close to +its junction with the Blue Nile: it was still dry, although the +Dinder was rising. I accounted for this, from the fact of the +extreme length of the Rahad's bed, which, from its extraordinary +tortuous course, must absorb a vast amount of water in the dry +sand, before the advancing stream can reach the Nile. Both the +Rahad and Dinder rise in the mountains of Abyssinia, at no great +distance from each other, and during the rains they convey a +large volume of water to the Blue Nile. Upon arrival at Abou +Harraz, four miles to the north of the Rahad junction, we had +marched, by careful dead reckoning, two hundred and eighty miles +from Gallabat. We were now about a hundred and fifteen miles from +Khartoum, and we stood upon the banks of the magnificent Blue +Nile, the last of the Abyssinian affluents. + +About six miles above this spot, on the south bank of the river, +is the large town of Wat Medene, which is the principal +trading-place upon the river. Abou Harraz was a miserable spot, +and was only important as the turning point upon the road to +Katariff from Khartoum. The entire country upon both sides of the +river is one vast unbroken level of rich soil, wlich on the north +and east sides is bounded by the Atbara. The entire surface of +this fertile country might be cultivated with cotton. All that is +required to insure productiveness, is a regular supply of water, +which might be artificially arranged without much difficulty. The +character of all the Abyssinian rivers is to rise and fall +suddenly; thus at one season there is an abundance of water, to +be followed by a scarcity: but in all the fertile provinces +adjacent to the Settite and the upper portion of the Atbara, the +periodical rains can be absolutely depended upon, from June to +the middle of September; thus, they are peculiarly adapted for +cotton, as a dry season is insured for gathering the crop. As we +advance to the north, and reach Abou Harraz, we leave the rainy +zone. When we had left Gallabat, the grass had sprung several +inches, owing to the recent showers; but as we had proceeded +rapidly towards the north, we had entered upon vast dusty plains +devoid of a green blade; the rainy season between Abou Harraz and +Khartoum consisted of mere occasional storms, that, descending +with great violence, quickly passed away. Nothing would be more +simple than to form a succession of weirs across the Rahad and +Dinder, that would enable the entire country to be irrigated at +any season of the year, but there is not an engineering work of +any description throughout Upper Egypt, beyond the sageer or +water-wheel of the Nile. Opposite Abou Harraz, the Blue Nile was +a grand river, about five hundred yards in width; the banks upon +the north side were the usual perpendicular cliffs of alluvial +soil, but perfectly bare of trees; while, on the south, the banks +were ornamented with nabbuk bushes and beautiful palms. The +latter are a peculiar species known by the Arabs as "dolape" +(Borassus AEthiopicus): the stem is long, and of considerable +thickness, but in about the centre of its length it swells to +nearly half its diameter in excess, and after a few feet of extra +thickness it continues its original size to the summit, which is +crowned by a handsome crest of leaves shaped like those of the +palmyra. The fruit of this palm is about the size of a cocoa-nut, +and when ripe it is of a bright yellow, with an exceedingly rich +perfume of apricots; it is very stringy, and, although eaten by +the natives, it is beyond the teeth of a European. The Arabs cut +it into slices, and boil it with water until they obtain a strong +syrup. Subsequently I found this palm in great quantities near +the equator. + +At Abou Harraz I discharged my camels, and endeavoured to engage +a boat to convey us to Khartoum, thus to avoid the dusty and +uninteresting ride of upwards of a hundred miles along its flat +and melancholy banks; but there was not a vessel of any kind to +be seen upon the river, except one miserable, dirty affair, for +which the owner demanded fourteen hundred piastres for a passage. +We accordingly procured camels, and started, intending to march +as rapidly as possible. + +"June 2, 1862.--We packed the camels in the morning and started +them off to Rufaar. We followed at 2.30 P.M. as the natives +declared it was half a day's journey; but we did not arrive until +8.30 P.M. having marched about twenty-one miles. The town is +considerable, and is the head-quarters of our old friend, the +great Sheik Achmet Abou Sinn; he is now absent, but his son Ali +is at home. He received us very kindly, and lodged us in his own +house within a large inclosed court, with a well of good water in +the centre. Having read my firman, be paid us the usual +compliments, but he lacked the calm dignity and ease of manner of +his grand old father. He sat stiffly upon the divan, occasionally +relieving the monotony of his position by lifting up the cover of +the cushions, and spitting beneath it. Not having a handkerchief, +but only the limited natural advantages of a finger and thumb, a +cold in the head gave him much trouble, and unpleasant marks upon +the wall exhibited hieroglyphics of recent date, that were ill +adapted to the reception-room of an Arab chieftain. In about an +hour he departed, and shortly after, a dinner of four dishes was +brought. No. 1 was an Arab Irish stew, but alas! MINUS the +potatoes; it was very good, nevertheless, as the mutton was fat. +No. 2 was an Arab stew, with no Irish element; it was very hot +with red pepper, and rather dry. No. 3 was a good quick fry of +small pieces of mutton in butter and garlic (very good); and No. +4 was an excellent dish of the usual melach, already described. + +The wind had within the last few days changed to south, and we +had been subjected to dust storms and sudden whirlwinds similar +to those we had experienced at this season in the preceding year, +when about to start from Berber. We left Rufaar, and continued +our march along the banks of the Blue Nile, towards Khartoum. It +was intensely hot; whenever we felt a breeze it was accompanied +with a suffocating dust, but the sight of the broad river was +cool and refreshing. During the dry season the water of the Blue +Nile is clear, as its broad surface reflects the colour of the +blue sky; hence the appellation, but at that time it was +extremely shallow, and in many places it is fordable at a depth +of about three feet, which renders it unnavigable for large +boats, which, laden with corn, supply Khartoum from the fertile +provinces of the south. The river had now begun to rise, although +it was still low, and the water was muddy, as the swelling +torrents of Abyssinia brought impurities into the main channel. +It was at this same time last year, when at Berber, that we had +noticed the sudden increase and equally sudden fall of the Nile, +that was influenced by the fluctuations of the Blue Nile, at a +time when the Atbara was dry. + +From Abou Harraz throughout the route to Khartoum there is no +object of interest; it is the same vast flat, decreasing rapidly +in fertility until it mingles with the desert; and once more, as +we journey to the north, we leave the fertile lands behind, and +enter upon sterility. The glare of barren plains and the heat of +the summer's sun were fearful. Bacheet had a slight coup de +soleil; my Tokrooris, whose woolly heads were shaved, and simply +covered with a thin skull-cap, suffered severely, as we marched +throughout the burning hours of the day. The Arabs were generally +very inhospitable, as this was the route frequented by all native +merchants, where strangers were of daily occurrence; but towards +evening we arrived at a village inhabited by a large body of +Fakeers, or priests. As we entered, we were met by the principal +Faky, who received us with marked attention, and with a charming +courtesy of manner that quite won our hearts; he expressed +himself as delighted at our arrival, hoped we were not fatigued +by the heat, and trusted that we would rest for a few minutes +before we departed to the enchanting village "just beyond those +trees," as he pointed to a clump of green nabbuk on the yellow +plain, about a mile distant; there, he assured us, we could +obtain all kinds of supplies, together with shade, and a lovely +view of the river. We were delighted with this very gentlemanly +Faky, and, saying adieu with regret, we hurried on to the +promised village "just beyond those trees." + +For fourteen miles we travelled, hungry and tired, beyond the +alluring clump of trees, along the wild desert of hot sand +without a habitation; the only portion of truth in the Faky's +description was the "lovely view of the river," that certainly +accompanied us throughout our journey. We were regularly "sold" +by the cunning Faky, who, not wishing to be incommoded by our +party, had got rid of us in a most gentlemanly manner. At length +we arrived at a village, where we had much difficulty in +procuring provisions for ourselves and people. + +On the 11th June, having slept at the village of Abou Dome, we +started at sunrise, and at 9 A.M. we reached the bank of the +river, opposite to Khartoum. We were delighted with the view, as +the morning sun shone upon the capital of the Soudan provinces; +the grove of date trees shaded the numerous buildings, their dark +green foliage contrasting exquisitely with the many coloured +houses on the extreme margin of the beautiful river; long lines +of vessels and masts gave life to the scene, and we felt that +once more, after twelve months of utterly wild life, we had +arrived in civilization. We had outridden our camels, therefore +we rode through a shallow arm of the river, and arrived upon an +extensive sandbank that had been converted into a garden of +melons; from this point a large ferry-boat plied regularly to the +town on the south bank. In a few minutes we found ourselves on +board, with our sole remaining horse, Tetel, also the donkeys +that we had purchased in Berber before our expedition, and our +attendants. As we gained the centre of the river, that was about +800 yards broad, we were greeted by the snort of three of our old +friends, the hippopotami, who had been attracted to the +neighbourhood by the garden of water-melons. We landed at +Khartoum, and, having climbed up the steep bank, we inquired the +way to the British Consulate. + +The difference between the view of Khartoum at the distance of a +mile, with the sun shining upon the bright river Nile in the +foreground, to the appearance of the town upon close inspection, +was about equal to the scenery of a theatre as regarded from the +boxes or from the stage; even that painful exposure of an optical +illusion would be trifling compared with the imposture of +Khartoum; the sense of sight had been deceived by distance, but +the sense of smell was outraged by innumerable nuisances, when we +set foot within the filthy and miserable town. After winding +through some narrow dusty lanes, hemmed in by high walls of +sun-baked bricks, that had fallen in gaps in several places, +exposing gardens of prickly pears and date palms, we at length +arrived at a large open place, that, if possible, smelt more +strongly than the landing spot. Around this square, which was +full of holes where the mud had been excavated for brickmaking, +were the better class of houses; this was the Belgravia of +Khartoum. In the centre of a long mud wall, ventilated by certain +attempts at frameless windows, guarded by rough wooden bars, we +perceived a large archway with closed doors; above this entrance +was a shield, with a device that gladdened my English eyes: there +was the British lion and the unicorn! Not such a lion as I had +been accustomed to meet in his native jungles, a yellow cowardly +fellow, that had often slunk away from the very prey from which +I had driven him, but a real red British lion, that, although +thin and ragged in the unhealthy climate of Khartoum, looked as +though he was pluck to the backbone. + +This was the English Consulate. I regarded our lion and unicorn +for a few moments with feelings of veneration; and as Mr. +Petherick, the consul, who was then absent on the White Nile in +search of Speke and Grant, had very kindly begged me to occupy +some rooms in the Consulate, we entered a large courtyard, and +were immediately received by two ostriches that came to meet us; +these birds entertained us by an impromptu race as hard as they +could go round the courtyard, as though performing in a circus. +When this little divertissement was finished, we turned to the +right, and were shown by a servant up a flight of steps into a +large airy room that was to be our residence, which, being well +protected from the sun, was cool and agreeable. Mr. Petherick had +started from Khartoum in the preceding March, and had expected to +meet Speke and Grant in the upper portion of the Nile regions, on +their road from Zanzibar; but there are insurmountable +difficulties in those wild countries, and his expedition met with +unforeseen accidents, that, in spite of the exertions of both +himself, his very devoted wife, Dr. Murie, and two or three +Europeans, drove them from their intended path. Shortly after our +arrival at the Consulate, a vessel returned from his party with +unfavourable accounts; they had started too late in the season, +owing to some difficulties in procuring boats, and the change of +wind to the south, with violent rain, had caused great suffering, +and had retarded their progress. This same boat had brought two +leopards that were to be sent to England: these animals were led +into the courtyard, and, having been secured by chains, they +formed a valuable addition to the menagerie, which consisted of +two wild boars, two leopards, one hyaena, two ostriches, and a +cynocephalus or dog-faced baboon, who won my heart by taking an +especial fancy to me, because I had a beard like his master. + +Although I take a great interest in wild animals, I confess to +have an objection to sleep in the Zoological Gardens should all +the wild beasts be turned loose. I do not believe that even the +Secretary of that learned Society would volunteer to sleep with +the lions; but as the leopards at the Khartoum Consulate +constantly broke their chains, and attacked the dogs and a cow, +and as the hyaena occasionally got loose, and the wild boars +destroyed their mud wall, and nearly killed one of my Tokrooris +during the night, by carving him like a scored leg of pork with +their tusks, the fact of sleeping in the open air in the +verandah, with the simple protection of a mosquito-netting, was +full of pleasant excitement, and was a piquante entertainment +that prevented a reaction of ennui after twelve months passed in +constant watchfulness. The shield over the Consulate door, with +the lion and the unicorn, was but a sign of the life within; as +the grand picture outside the showman's wagon may exemplify the +nature of his exhibition. I enjoyed myself extremely with these +creatures, especially when the ostriches invited themselves to +tea, and swallowed our slices of water-melons and the greater +portion of the bread from the table a few moments before we were +seated. These birds appeared to enjoy life amazingly; one kind of +food was as sweet as another; they attacked a basket of white +porcelain beads that had been returned by Mr. Petherick's men, +and swallowed them in great numbers in mistake for dhurra, until +they were driven off; they were the scavengers of the courtyard, +that consumed the dung of the camels and horses, together with +all other impurities. + +For some months we resided at Khartoum, as it was necessary to +make extensive preparations for the White Nile expedition, and to +await the arrival of the north wind, which would enable us to +start early in December. Although the north and south winds blow +alternately for six months, and the former commences in October, +it does not extend many degrees southward until the beginning of +December. This is a great drawback to White Nile exploration, as +when near the north side of the equator, the dry season commences +in November, and closes in February; thus, the departure from +Khartoum should take place by a steamer in the latter part of +September; that would enable the traveller to leave Gondokoro, +lat. N. 4 degrees 54 minutes, shortly before November; he would +then secure three months of favourable weather for an advance +inland. + +Having promised Mek Nimmur that I would lay his proposals for +peace before the Governor-General of the Soudan, I called upon +Moosa Pasha at the public divan, and delivered the message; but +he would not listen to any intercession, as he assured me that +Mek Nimmur was incorrigible, and there would be no real peace +until his death, which would be very speedy should he chance to +fall into his hands. He expressed great surprise at our having +escaped from his territory, and he declared his intention of +attacking him after he should have given the Abyssinians a +lesson, for whom he was preparing an expedition in reply to an +insolent letter that he had received from King Theodore. The King +of Abyssinia had written to him upon a question of frontier. The +substance of the document was a declaration that the Egyptians +had no right to Khartoum, and that the natural boundary of +Abyssinia was the junction of the Blue and White Niles as far +north as Shendy (Mek Nimmur's original country); and from that +point, in a direct line, to the Atbara; but that, as the desert +afforded no landmark, he should send his people to dig a ditch +from the Nile to the Atbara, and he requested that the Egyptians +would keep upon the north border. Moosa Pasha declared that the +king was mad, and that, were it not for the protection given to +Abyssinia by the English, the Egyptians would have eaten it up +long ago, but that the Christian powers would certainly interfere +should they attempt to annex the country. + +The Egyptians seldom had less than twenty thousand troops in the +Soudan provinces; the principal stations were Khartoum, Cassala, +and Dongola. Cassala was close to the Abyssinian frontier, and +within from fifteen to twenty days' march of Souakim, on the Red +Sea, to which reinforcements could be despatched in five days +from Cairo. Khartoum had the advantage of the Blue Nile, that was +navigable for steamers and sailing vessels as far south as +Fazogle, from which spot, as well as from Gallabat, Abyssinia +could be invaded; while swarms of Arabs, including the celebrated +Hamrans, the Beni Amer, Hallongas, Hadendowas, Shookeriahs, and +Dabainas, could be slipped like greyhounds across the frontier. +Abyssinia is entirely at the mercy of Egypt. + +Moosa Pasha subsequently started with several thousand men to +drive the Abyssinians from Gallabat, which position they had +occupied in force with the avowed intention of marching upon +Khartoum; but upon the approach of the Egyptians they fell back +rapidly across the mountains, without a sign of showing fight. +The Egyptians would not follow them, as they feared the +intervention of the European powers. + +Upon our first arrival in Khartoum, from 11th June until early in +October, the heat was very oppressive, the thermometer seldom +below 95 degrees Fahr. in the shade, and frequently 100 degrees, +while the nights were 82 degrees Fahr. In the winter, the +temperature was agreeable, the shade 80 degrees, the night 62 +degrees Fahr. But the chilliness of the north wind was +exceedingly dangerous, as the sudden gusts checked the +perspiration, and produced various maladies, more especially +fever. I had been extremely fortunate, as, although exposed to +hard work for more than a year in the burning sun, I had +remarkably good health, as had my wife likewise, with the +exception of one severe attack while at Sofi. Throughout the +countries we had visited, the temperature was high, averaging +about 90 degrees in the shade from May until the end of +September; but the nights were generally about 70 degrees, with +the exception of the winter months, from November until February, +when the thermometer generally fell to 85 degrees Fahr. in the +day, and sometimes as low as 58 degrees at between 2 and 5 A.M. + +I shall not repeat a minute description of Khartoum that has +already been given in the "Albert N'yanza;" it is a wretchedly +unhealthy town, containing about thirty thousand inhabitants, +exclusive of troops. In spite of its unhealthiness and low +situation, on a level with the river at the junction of the Blue +and White Niles, it is the general emporium for the trade of the +Soudan, from which the productions of the country are transported +to Lower Egypt, i.e. ivory, hides, senna, gum arabic, and +bees'-wax. During my experience of Khartoum it was the hotbed of +the slave-trade. It will be remarked that the exports from the +Soudan are all natural productions. There is nothing to exhibit +the industry or capacity of the natives; the ivory is the produce +of violence and robbery; the hides are the simple sun-dried skins +of oxen; the senna grows wild upon the desert; the gum arabic +exudes spontaneously from the bushes of the jungle; and the +bees'-wax is the produce of the only industrious creatures in +that detestable country. + +When we regard the general aspect of the Soudan, it is extreme +wretchedness; the rainfall is uncertain and scanty, thus the +country is a desert, dependent entirely upon irrigation. Although +cultivation is simply impossible without a supply of water, one +of the most onerous taxes is that upon the sageer or water-wheel, +with which the fields are irrigated on the borders of the Nile. +It would appear natural that, instead of a tax, a premium should +be offered for the erection of such means of irrigation, which +would increase the revenue by extending cultivation, the produce +of which might bear an impost. With all the talent and industry +of the native Egyptians, who must naturally depend upon the +waters of the Nile for their existence, it is extraordinary that +for thousands of years they have adhered to their original simple +form of mechanical irrigation, without improvement. + +If any one will take the trouble to watch the action of the +sageer or water-wheel, it must strike him as a most puny effort +to obtain a great result, that would at once suggest an extension +of the principle. The sageer is merely a wheel of about twenty +feet diameter, which is furnished with numerous earthenware jars +upon its exterior circumference, that upon revolving perform the +action of a dredger, but draw to the surface water instead of +mud. The wheel, being turned by oxen, delivers the water into a +trough which passes into a reservoir, roughly fashioned with +clay, from which, small channels of about ten inches in width +radiate through the plantation. The fields, divided into squares +like a chess-board, are thus irrigated by a succession of minute +aqueducts. The root of this principle is the reservoir. A certain +steady volume of water is required, from which the arteries shall +flow throughout a large area of dry ground; thus, the reservoir +insures a regular supply to each separate channel. + +In any civilized country, the existence of which depended upon +the artificial supply of water in the absence of rain, the first +engineering principle would suggest a saving of labour in +irrigation: that, instead of raising the water in small +quantities into reservoirs, the river should raise its own waters +to the required level. + +Having visited every tributary of the Nile during the +explorations of nearly five years, I have been struck with the +extraordinary fact that, although an enormous amount of wealth is +conveyed to Egypt by the annual inundations of the river, the +force of the stream is entirely uncontrolled. From time +immemorial, the rise of the Nile has been watched with intense +interest at the usual season, but no attempt has been made to +insure a supply of water to Egypt during all seasons. + +The mystery of the Nile has been dispelled; we have proved that +the equatorial lakes supply the main stream, but that the +inundations are caused by the sudden rush of waters from the +torrents of Abyssinia in July, August, and September; and that +the soil washed down by the floods of the Atbara is at the +present moment silting up the mouths of the Nile, and thus +slowly, but steadily, forming a delta beneath the waters of the +Mediterranean, on the same principle that created the fertile +Delta of Egypt. Both the water and the mud of the Nile have +duties to perform,--the water to irrigate; the deposit to +fertilize; but these duties are not regularly performed: +sometimes the rush of the inundation is overwhelming, at others +it is insufficient; while at all times an immense proportion of +the fertilizing mud is not only wasted by a deposit beneath the +sea, but navigation is impeded by the silt. The Nile is a +powerful horse without harness, but, with a bridle in its mouth, +the fertility of Egypt might be increased to a vast extent. + +As the supply of water raised by the sageer is received in a +reservoir, from which the irrigating channels radiate through the +plantations, so should great reservoirs be formed throughout the +varying levels of Egypt, from Khartoum to the Mediterranean, +comprising a distance of sixteen degrees of latitude, with a fall +of fifteen hundred feet. The advantage of this great difference +in altitude between the Nile in latitude 15 degrees 30 minutes +and the sea, would enable any amount of irrigation, by the +establishment of a series of dams or weirs across the Nile, that +would raise its level to the required degree, at certain points, +from which the water would be led by canals into natural +depressions; these would form reservoirs, from which the water +might be led upon a vast scale, in a similar manner to the +insignificant mud basins that at the present day form the +reservoirs for the feeble water-wheels. The increase of the +river's level would depend upon the height of the dams; but, as +stone is plentiful throughout the Nile, the engineering +difficulties would be trifling. + +Mehemet Ali Pasha acknowledged the principle, by the erection of +the barrage between Cairo and Alexandria, which, by simply +raising the level of the river, enabled the people to extend +their channels for irrigation; but this was the crude idea, that +has not been carried out upon a scale commensurate with the +requirements of Egypt. The ancient Egyptians made use of the lake +Mareotis as a reservoir for the Nile waters for the irrigation of +a large extent of Lower Egypt, by taking advantage of a high Nile +to secure a supply for the remainder of the year; but, great as +were the works of those industrious people, they appear to have +ignored the first principle of irrigation, by neglecting to raise +the level of the river. + +Egypt remains in the same position that Nature originally +allotted to her; the life-giving stream that flows through a +thousand miles of burning sands suddenly rises in July, and +floods the Delta which it has formed by a deposit, during perhaps +hundreds of thousands of inundations; and it wastes a +superabundance of fertilizing mud in the waters of the +Mediterranean. As Nature has thus formed, and is still forming a +delta, why should not Science create a delta, with the powerful +means at our disposal? Why should not the mud of the Nile that +now silts up the Mediterranean be directed to the barren but vast +area of deserts, that by such a deposit would become a fertile +portion of Egypt? This work might be accomplished by simple +means: the waters of the Nile, that now rush impetuously at +certain seasons with overwhelming violence, while at other +seasons they are exhausted, might be so controlled that they +should never be in excess, neither would they be reduced to a +minimum in the dry season; but the enormous volume of water +heavily charged with soil, that now rushes uselessly into the +sea, might be led throughout the deserts of Nubia and Libya, to +transform them into cotton fields that would render England +independent of America. There is no fiction in this idea; it is +merely the simple and commonplace fact, that with a fall of +fifteen hundred feet in a thousand miles, with a river that +supplies an unlimited quantity of water and mud at a particular +season, a supply could be afforded to a prodigious area, that +would be fertilized not only by irrigation, but by the annual +deposit of soil from the water, allowed to remain upon the +surface. This suggestion might be carried out by gradations; the +great work might be commenced by a single dam above the first +cataract at Assouan, at a spot where the river is walled in by +granite hills; at that place, the water could be raised to an +exceedingly high level, that would command an immense tract of +country. As the system became developed, similar dams might be +constructed at convenient intervals that would not only bring +into cultivation the neighbouring deserts, but would facilitate +the navigation of the river, that is now impeded, and frequently +closed, by the numerous cataracts. By raising the level of the +Nile sixty feet at every dam, the cataracts would no longer +exist, as the rocks which at present form the obstructions would +be buried in the depths of the river. At the positions of the +several dams, sluice gates and canals would conduct the shipping +either up or down the stream. Were this principle carried out as +far as the last cataracts, near Khartoum, the Soudan would no +longer remain a desert; the Nile would become not only the +cultivator of those immense tracts that are now utterly +worthless, but it would be the navigable channel of Egypt for the +extraordinary distance of twenty-seven degrees of +latitude--direct from the Mediterranean to Gondokoro, N. lat. 4 +degrees 54 minutes. + +The benefits, not only to Egypt, but to civilization, would be +incalculable; those remote countries in the interior of Africa +are so difficult of access, that, although we cling to the hope +that at some future time the inhabitants may become enlightened, +it will be simply impossible to alter their present condition, +unless we change the natural conditions under which they exist. +From a combination of adverse circumstances, they are excluded +from the civilized world: the geographical position of those +desert-locked and remote countries shuts them out from personal +communication with strangers: the hardy explorer and the +missionary creep through the difficulties of distance in their +onward paths, but seldom return: the European merchant is rarely +seen, and trade resolves itself into robbery and piracy upon the +White Nile, and other countries, where distance and difficulty of +access have excluded all laws and political surveillance. +Nevertheless, throughout that desert, and neglected wilderness, +the Nile has flowed for ages, and the people upon its banks are +as wild and uncivilized at the present day as they were when the +Pyramids were raised in Lower Egypt. The Nile is a blessing only +half appreciated; the time will arrive when people will look in +amazement upon a mighty Egypt, whose waving crops shall extend, +far beyond the horizon, upon those sandy and thirsty deserts +where only the camel can contend with exhausted nature. Men will +look down from some lofty point upon a network of canals and +reservoirs, spreading throughout a land teeming with fertility, +and wonder how it was that, for so many ages, the majesty of the +Nile had been concealed. Not only the sources of that wonderful +river had been a mystery from the earliest history of the world, +but the resources and the power of the mighty Nile are still +mysterious and misunderstood. + +In all rainless countries, artificial irrigation is the first law +of nature, it is self-preservation; but, even in countries where +the rainfall can be depended upon with tolerable certainty, +irrigation should never be neglected; one dry season in a +tropical country may produce a famine, the results of which may +be terrible, as instanced lately by the unfortunate calamity in +Orissa. The remains of the beautiful system of artificial +irrigation that was employed by the ancients in Ceylon, attest +the degree of civilization to which they had attained; in that +island the waters of various rivers were conducted into valleys +that were converted into lakes, by dams of solid masonry that +closed the extremity, from which the water was conducted by +artificial channels throughout the land. In those days, Ceylon +was the most fertile country of the East; her power equalled her +prosperity; vast cities teeming with a dense population stood +upon the borders of the great reservoirs, and the people revelled +in wealth and plenty. The dams were destroyed in civil warfare; +the wonderful works of irrigation shared in the destruction; the +country dried up; famine swallowed up the population; and the +grandeur and prosperity of that extraordinary country collapsed +and withered in the scorching sun, when the supply of water was +withdrawn. + +At the present moment, ten thousand square miles lie desolate in +thorny jungles, where formerly a sea of waving rice-crops floated +on the surface; the people are dead, the glory is departed. This +glory had been the fruit of irrigation. All this prosperity might +be restored: but in Egypt there has been no annihilation of a +people, and the Nile invites a renewal of the system formerly +adopted in Ceylon; there is an industrious population crowded +upon a limited space of fertile soil, and yearning for an +increase of surface. At the commencement of this work, we saw the +Egyptians boating the earth from the crumbling ruins, and +transporting it with arduous labour to spread upon the barren +sandbanks of the Nile, left by the retreating river; they were +striving for every foot of land thus offered by the exhausted +waters, and turning into gardens what in other countries would +have been unworthy of cultivation. Were a system of irrigation +established upon the principle that I have proposed, the +advantages would be enormous. The silt deposited in the +Mediterranean, that now chokes the mouths of the Nile, and blocks +up harbours, would be precipitated upon the broad area of +newly-irrigated lands, and by the time that the water arrived at +the sea, it would have been filtered in its passage, and have +become incapable of forming a fresh deposit. The great difficulty +of the Suez canal will be the silting up of the entrance by the +Nile; this would be prevented were the mud deposited in the upper +country. + +During the civil war in America, Egypt proved her capabilities by +producing a large amount of cotton of most excellent quality, +that assisted us materially in the great dearth of that article; +but, although large fortunes were realized by the extension of +this branch of agriculture, the Egyptians suffered considerably +in consequence. The area of fertile soil was too limited, and, as +an unusual surface was devoted to the growth of cotton, there was +a deficiency in the production of corn; and Egypt, instead of +exporting as heretofore, was forced to import large quantities of +grain. Were the area of Egypt increased to a vast extent by the +proposed system of irrigation, there would be space sufficient +for both grain and cotton to any amount required. The desert +soil, that is now utterly worthless, would become of great value; +and the taxes upon the increased produce would not only cover the +first outlay of the irrigation works, but would increase the +revenue in the ratio proportionate to the increased surface of +fertility. A dam across the Atbara would irrigate the entire +country from Gozerajup to Berber, a distance of upwards of 200 +miles; and the same system upon the Nile would carry the waters +throughout the deserts between Khartoum and Dongola, and from +thence to Lower Egypt. The Nubian desert, from Korosko to Abou +Hamed, would become a garden, the whole of that sterile country +inclosed within the great western bend of the Nile towards +Dongola would be embraced in the system of irrigation, and the +barren sands that now give birth to the bitter melon of the +desert (Cucumis colocynthis), would bring forth the water-melon, +and heavy crops of grain.* The great Sahara is desert, simply +because it receives no rainfall: give it only water, and the sand +will combine with the richer soil beneath, and become productive. +England would become a desert, could it be deprived of rain for +three or four years; the vegetation would wither and be carried +away by the wind, together with the lighter and more friable +portions of the soil, which, reduced to dust, would leave the +coarser and more sandy particles exposed upon the surface; but +the renewal of rain would revivify the country. The deserts of +Egypt have never known rain, except in the form of an unexpected +shower, that has passed away as suddenly as it arrived; even that +slight blessing awakens ever-ready Nature, and green things +appear upon the yellow surface of the ground, that cause the +traveller to wonder how their seeds could germinate after the +exposure for so many months in the burning sand. Give water to +these thirsty deserts, and they will reply with gratitude. + + * The great deserts of Northern Africa, to about + the 170 N. lat., are supposed to have formed the + bottom of the Mediterranean, but to have been + upheaved to their present level. The volcanic bombs + discovered in the Nubian Desert suggest, by their + spherical form, that the molten lava ejected by + active volcanoes had fallen from a great height + into water, that had rapidly cooled them, in the + same manner that lead shot is manufactured at the + present day. It is therefore highly probable that + the extinct craters now in existence in the Nubian + Desert were active at a period when they formed + volcanic islands in a sea--similar to Stromboli, + &c. &c. + +This is the way to civilize a country: the engineer will alter +the hard conditions of nature, that have rendered man as barren +of good works as the sterile soil upon which he lives. Let man +have hope; improve the present, that his mind may look forward to +a future; give him a horse that will answer to the spur, if he is +to run in the race of life; give him a soil that will yield and +tempt him to industry; give him the means of communication with +his fellow-men, that he may see his own inferiority by +comparison; provide channels for the transport of his produce, +and for the receipt of foreign manufactures, that will engender +commerce: and then, when he has advanced so far in the scale of +humanity, you may endeavour to teach him the principles of +Christianity. Then, and not till then, can we hope for moral +progress. We must begin with the development of the physical +capabilities of a country before we can expect from its +inhabitants sufficient mental vigour to receive and understand +the truths of our religion. I have met with many Christian +missionaries, of various and conflicting creeds, who have +fruitlessly sown the seed of Christianity upon the barren soil of +Africa; but their labours were ill-timed, they were too early in +the field, the soil is unprepared; the missionary, however +earnest, must wait until there be some foundation for a +superstructure. Raise the level of the waters, and change the +character of the surrounding deserts: this will also raise the +intellectual condition of the inhabitants by an improvement in +the natural conditions of their country. . . . . . . + +The first portion of our task was completed. We had visited all +the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, including the great Blue Nile +that had been traced to its source by Bruce. The difficult task +still lay before us--to penetrate the unknown regions in the +distant south, to discover the White Nile source.* Speke and +Grant were on their road from Zanzibar, cutting their way upon +untrodden ground towards Gondokoro. Petherick's expedition to +assist them had met with misfortune, and we trusted to be able to +reach the equator, and perhaps to meet our Zanzibar explorers +somewhere about the sources of the Nile. Although we had worked +hard throughout all seasons, over an immense extent of country, +we were both strong and well, and the rest of some months at +Khartoum had only served to inspire us with new vigour for the +commencement of the work before us. By the 17th December, 1862, +our preparations were completed; three vessels were laden with +large quantities of stores--400 bushels of corn, twenty-nine +transport animals, including camels, donkeys, and horses (among +the latter was my old hunter Tetel). Ninety-six souls formed my +whole party, including forty well-armed men, with Johann Schmidt +and Richarn. On the 18th December we sailed from Khartoum upon +the White Nile towards its unknown sources, and bade farewell to +the last vestige of law, government, and civilization. I find in +my journal, the last words written at our departure upon this +uncertain task, "God grant us success; if He guides, I have no +fear." + + * The account of the White Nile voyage, with the happy + meeting of captains Speke and Grant, and the subsequent + discovery of the "Albert N'yanza," has been already + given in the work of that title. diff --git a/2125.zip b/2125.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ece182 --- /dev/null +++ b/2125.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. 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