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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, In Africa, by John T. McCutcheon
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: In Africa
+       Hunting Adventures in the Big Game Country
+
+
+Author: John T. McCutcheon
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 29, 2007  [eBook #21254]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Rudy Ketterer and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the numerous original illustrations.
+      See 21254-h.htm or 21254-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/1/2/5/21254/21254-h/21254-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/1/2/5/21254/21254-h.zip)
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+      Words or phrases in italics are enclosed beetwee
+      underscores, such as _italic_.
+
+      [Drawing: . . .] indicates a hand-drawn Illustration
+
+
+
+
+
+IN AFRICA
+
+Hunting Adventures in the Big Game Country
+
+by
+
+JOHN T. McCUTCHEON
+
+Cartoonist of the Chicago Tribune
+
+Illustrated with Photographs and Cartoons by the Author
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. One Morning's Bag]
+
+
+
+Indianapolis
+The Bobbs-Merrill Company
+Publishers
+
+Copyright 1910
+The Tribune Company, Chicago
+
+Copyright 1910
+The Bobbs-Merrill Company
+
+Press of
+Braunworth & Co.
+Bookbinders and Printers
+Brooklyn, N.Y.
+
+
+
+
+                TO THOSE ADVENTUROUS SOULS WHO
+            RESENT THE RESTRAINT OF THE BEATEN PATH
+               THESE OBSERVATIONS OF AN AMATEUR
+                         ARE DEDICATED
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+This collection of African stories has no pretentious purpose. It is
+merely the record of a most delightful hunting trip into those
+fascinating regions along the Equator, where one may still have
+"thrilling adventures" and live in a story-book atmosphere, where the
+"roar of the lion" and the "crack of the rifle" are part of the
+every-day life, and where in a few months one may store up enough
+material to keep the memory pleasantly occupied all the rest of a
+lifetime. The stories are descriptive of a four-and-a-half months' trip
+in the big game country and pretend to no more serious purpose than
+merely to relate the experiences of a self-confessed amateur under such
+conditions.
+
+                                              JOHN T. McCUTCHEON
+
+_August, 1910_
+
+
+
+
+                          CONTENTS
+
+CHAPTER ONE                                                       Page
+  The Preparation for Departure. Experiences with Willing
+  Friends and Advisers                                               1
+
+CHAPTER TWO
+  The First Half of the Voyage. From Naples to the Red Sea,
+  with a Few Side-Lights on Indian Ocean Travel                     13
+
+CHAPTER THREE
+  The Island of Mombasa, with the Jungles of Equatorial Africa
+  "Only a Few Blocks Away." A Story of the World's Champion
+  Man-Eating Lions                                                  28
+
+CHAPTER FOUR
+  On the Edge of the Athi Plains, Face to Face with Herds of
+  Wild Game. Up in a Balloon at Nairobi                             43
+
+CHAPTER FIVE
+  Into the Heart of the Big Game Country with a Retinue of
+  More Than One Hundred Natives. A Safari and What It Is            65
+
+CHAPTER SIX
+  A Lion Drive. With a Rhino in Range Some One Shouts
+  "Simba" and I Get My First Glimpse of a Wild Lion. Three
+  Shots and Out                                                     82
+
+CHAPTER SEVEN
+  On the Tana River, the Home of the Rhino. The Timid are
+  Frightened, the Dangerous Killed, and Others Photographed.
+  Moving Pictures of a Rhino Charge                                105
+
+CHAPTER EIGHT
+  Meeting Colonel Roosevelt in the Uttermost Outpost of
+  Semi-Civilization. He Talks of Many Things, Hears that he has
+  Been Reported Dead, and Promptly Plans an Elephant Hunt          123
+
+CHAPTER NINE
+  The Colonel Reads Macaulay's "Essays," Discourses on Many
+  Subjects with Great Frankness, Declines a Drink of Scotch
+  Whisky, and Kills Three Elephants                                141
+
+CHAPTER TEN
+  Elephant Hunting Not an Occasion for Lightsome Merrymaking.
+  Five Hundred Thousand Acres of Forest in Which the
+  Kenia Elephant Lives, Wanders and Brings Up His Children         164
+
+CHAPTER ELEVEN
+  Nine Days Without Seeing an Elephant. The Roosevelt
+  Party Departs and We March for the Mountains on Our Big
+  Elephant Hunt. The Policeman of the Plains                       184
+
+CHAPTER TWELVE
+  "Twas the Day Before Christmas." Photographing a Charging
+  Elephant, Cornering a Wounded Elephant in a River Jungle
+  Growth. A Thrilling Charge. Hassan's Courage                     201
+
+CHAPTER THIRTEEN
+  In the Swamps of the Guas Ngishu. Beating for Lions We
+  Came Upon a Strange and Fascinating Wild Beast, Which
+  Became Attached to Our Party. The Little Wanderobo Dog           214
+
+CHAPTER FOURTEEN
+  Who's Who in Jungleland. The Hartebeest and the Wildebeest,
+  the Amusing Giraffe and the Ubiquitous Zebra, the
+  Lovely Gazelle and the Gentle Impalla                            233
+
+CHAPTER FIFTEEN
+  Some Natural History in Which it is Revealed that a Sing-Sing
+  Waterbuck is Not a Singing Topi, and that a Topi is Not
+  a Species of Head-dress                                          251
+
+CHAPTER SIXTEEN
+  In the Tall Grass of the Mount Elgon Country. A Narrow
+  Escape from a Long-Horned Rhino. A Thanksgiving Dinner
+  and a Visit to a Native Village                                  269
+
+CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
+  Up and Down the Mountain Side from the Ketosh Village to
+  the Great Cave of Bats. A Dramatic Episode with the Finding
+  of a Black Baby as a Climax                                      291
+
+CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
+  Electric Lights, Motor-Cars and Fifteen Varieties of Wild
+  Game. Chasing Lions Across the Country in a Carriage             313
+
+CHAPTER NINETEEN
+  The Last Word in Lion Hunting. Methods of Trailing, Ensnaring
+  and Otherwise Outwitting the King of Beasts. A
+  Chapter of Adventures                                            325
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY
+  Abdullah the Cook and Some Interesting Gastronomic Experiences.
+  Thirteen Tribes Represented in the Safari. Abdi's
+  Story of His Uncle and the Lions                                 341
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE
+  Back Home from Africa. Ninety Days on the Way Through
+  India, Java, China, Manila and Japan. Three Chow Dogs and
+  a Final Series of Amusing Adventures                             360
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
+  Ways and Means. What to Take and What Not to Take. Information
+  for Those that Wish, Intend or Hope to Hunt in the
+  African Highlands                                                384
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               IN AFRICA
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE. EXPERIENCES WITH WILLING FRIENDS AND
+ADVISERS
+
+
+Ever since I can remember, almost, I have cherished a modest ambition to
+hunt lions and elephants. At an early age, or, to be more exact, at
+about that age which finds most boys wondering whether they would rather
+be Indian fighters or sailors, I ran across a copy of Stanley's _Through
+the Dark Continent_. It was full of fascinating adventures. I thrilled
+at the accounts which spoke in terms of easy familiarity of "express"
+rifles and "elephant" guns, and in my vivid but misguided imagination, I
+pictured an elephant gun as a sort of cannon--a huge, unwieldy
+arquebus--that fired a ponderous shell. The old woodcuts of daring
+hunters and charging lions inspired me with unrest and longing--the
+longing to bid the farm farewell and start down the road for Africa.
+Africa! What a picture it conjured up in my fancy! Then, as even now, it
+symbolized a world of adventurous possibilities; and in my boyhood
+fancy, it lay away off there--somewhere--vaguely--beyond mountains and
+deserts and oceans, a vast, mysterious, unknown land, that swarmed with
+inviting dangers and alluring romance.
+
+One by one my other youthful ambitions have been laid away. I have given
+up hope of ever being an Indian fighter out on the plains, because the
+pesky redskins have long since ceased to need my strong right arm to
+quell them. I also have yielded up my ambition to be a sailor, or
+rather, that branch of the profession in which I hoped to
+specialize--piracy--because, for some regretful reason, piracy has lost
+much of its charm in these days of great liners. There is no treasure to
+search for any more, and the golden age of the splendid clipper ships,
+with their immense spread of canvas, has given way to the unromantic age
+of the grimy steamer, about which there is so little to appeal to the
+imagination. Consequently, lion hunting is about the only thing
+left--except wars, and they are few and far between.
+
+And so, after suffering this "lion-hunting" ambition to lie fallow for
+many years, I at last reached a day when it seemed possible to realize
+it. The chance came in a curiously unexpected way. Mr. Akeley, a man
+famed in African hunting exploits, was to deliver a talk before a little
+club to which I belonged. I went, and as a result of my thrilled
+interest in every word he said, I met him and talked with him and
+finally was asked to join a new African expedition that he had in
+prospect. With the party were to be Mrs. Akeley, with a record of
+fourteen months in the big game country, and Mr. Stephenson, a hunter
+with many years of experience in the wild places of the United States,
+Canada and Mexico. My hunting experience had been chiefly gained in my
+library, but for some strange reason, it did not seem incongruous that I
+should begin my real hunting in a lion and elephant country.
+
+[Drawing: _Getting Ready for Lion Shooting_]
+
+I had all the prowess of a Tartarin, and during the five months that
+elapsed before I actually set forth, I went about my daily work with a
+mind half dazed with the delicious consciousness that I was soon to
+become a lion hunter. I feared that modern methods might have taken away
+much of the old-time romance of the sport, but I felt certain that there
+was still to be something left in the way of excitement and adventure.
+
+The succeeding pages of this book contain the chronicle of the nine
+delightful months that followed my departure from America.
+
+In the middle of August Mr. Stephenson and I arrived in London. Mr.
+Akeley had ordered most of our equipment by letter, but there still
+remained many things to be done, and for a week or more we were busy
+from morning till night.
+
+It is amazing how much stuff is required to outfit a party of four
+people for an African shooting expedition of several months' duration.
+First in importance come the rifles, then the tents and camp equipment,
+then the clothes and boots, then the medical supplies, and finally the
+food. Perhaps the food might be put first in importance, but just now,
+after a hearty dinner, it seems to be the least important detail.
+
+Many men outfitting for an African campaign among wild animals secure
+their outfits in London. It is there, in modest little shops, that one
+gets the weapons that are known to sportsmen from one end of the world
+to the other--weapons designed expressly for the requirements of African
+shooting, and which have long stood the test of hard, practical service.
+For two days we haunted these famous gun-makers' shops, and for two days
+I made a magnificent attempt to look learnedly at things about which I
+knew little.
+
+[Drawing: _Practising in the Museum_]
+
+At last, after many hours of gun shopping, attended by the constant
+click of a taxicab meter, I assembled such an imposing arsenal that I
+was nervous whenever I thought about it. With such a battery it was a
+foregone conclusion that something, or somebody, was likely to get hurt.
+I hoped that it would be something, and not somebody.
+
+The old-time "elephant gun" which shot an enormous ball and a staggering
+charge of black powder has given way to the modern double-barreled
+rifle, with its steel bullet and cordite powder. It is not half so heavy
+or clumsy as the old timers, but its power and penetration are
+tremendous. The largest of this modern type is the .650 cordite--that
+is, it shoots a bullet six hundred and fifty thousandths of an inch in
+diameter, and has a frightful recoil. This weapon is prohibitive on
+account of its recoil, and few, if any, sportsmen now care to carry one.
+The most popular type is the .450 and .475 cordite double-barreled
+ejector, hammerless rifles, and these are the ones that every elephant
+hunter should have.
+
+We started out with the definite purpose of getting three .450s--one for
+Mr. Akeley, one for Mr. Stephenson, and one for myself; also three
+nine-millimeter (.375) Mannlichers and two .256 Mannlichers. What we
+really got were three .475 cordites, two nine-millimeter Mannlichers,
+one eight-millimeter Mauser, and two .256 Mannlichers. We were switched
+off the .450s because a government regulation forbids the use of that
+caliber in Uganda, although it is permitted in British East Africa, and
+so we played safe by getting the .475s. This rifle is a heavy gun that
+carries a bullet large enough to jolt a fixed star and recoil enough to
+put one's starboard shoulder in the hospital for a day or so.
+Theoretically, the sportsman uses this weapon in close quarters, and
+with a bullet placed according to expert advice sees the charging lion,
+rhino or elephant turn a back somersault on his way to kingdom come. It
+has a tremendous impact and will usually stop an animal even if the
+bullet does not kill it. The bullets of a smaller rifle may kill the
+animal, but not stop it at once. An elephant or lion, with a small
+bullet in its heart, may still charge for fifty or one hundred yards
+before it falls. Hence the necessity for a rifle that will shock as well
+as penetrate.
+
+[Drawing: _Advice from a Cheerful Stranger_]
+
+Several experienced African lion hunters strongly advise taking a
+"paradox," which in their parlance is affectionately called a
+"cripple-stopper." It looks like what one would suppose an elephant gun
+to look like. Its weight is staggering, and it shoots a solid ball,
+backed up by a fearful charge of cordite. They use it under the
+following conditions: Suppose that a big animal has been wounded and not
+instantly killed. It at once assumes the aggressive, and is savage
+beyond belief. The pain of the wound infuriates it and its one object in
+life is to get at the man who shot it. It charges in a well-nigh
+irresistible rush, and no ordinary bullet can stop it unless placed in
+one or two small vital spots. Under the circumstances the hunter may not
+be able to hold his rifle steady enough to hit these aforesaid spots.
+That is when the paradox comes in. The hunter points it in a general way
+in the direction of the oncoming beast, pulls the trigger and hopes for
+the best. The paradox bullet hits with the force of a sledge hammer, and
+stuns everything within a quarter of a mile, and the hunter turns
+several back somersaults from the recoil and fades into bruised
+unconsciousness.
+
+We decided not to get the paradox, preferring to trust to hitting the
+small vital spots rather than transport the weapon by hand through long
+tropical marches.
+
+The nine-millimeter rifles were said to be large enough for nearly all
+purposes, but not reassuring in extremely close quarters. The .256
+Mannlichers are splendid for long range shooting, as they carry a small
+bore bullet and have enormous penetrating power.
+
+The presumption, therefore, was that we should first shoot the lion at
+long range with the .256, then at a shorter range with the
+nine-millimeter, then at close range with the .475 cordite, and then
+perhaps fervently wish that we had the paradox or a balloon.
+
+After getting our arsenal, we then had to get the cartridges, all done
+up in tin boxes of a weight not exceeding sixty pounds, that being the
+limit of weight which the African porter is expected to carry. There
+were several thousand rounds of ammunition, but this did not mean that
+several thousand lions were to be killed. Allowing for a fair percentage
+of misses, we calculated, if lucky, to get one or two lions.
+
+After getting our rifles and ammunition under satisfactory headway, we
+then saw that our seventy-two "chop" boxes of food were sure to be ready
+in time to catch our steamer at Southampton.
+
+And yet these preliminary details did not half conclude our shopping
+preliminaries in London. There were camping rugs, blankets, cork
+mattresses, pillows and pillow cases, bed bags, towels, lanterns,
+mosquito boots, whetstones, hunting and skinning knives, khaki helmets,
+pocket tapes to measure trophies, Pasteur anti-venomous serum,
+hypodermic syringes, chairs, tables, cots, puttees, sweaters, raincoats,
+Jaeger flannels, socks and pajamas, cholera belts, Burberry hunting
+clothes, and lots of other little odds and ends that seemed to be
+necessary.
+
+The clothes were put up in air-proof tin uniform cases, small enough to
+be easily carried by a porter and secure enough to keep out the millions
+of ants that were expected to seek habitation in them.
+
+[Drawing: _Part of the Equipment_]
+
+Most of our equipment, especially the food supplies, had been ordered by
+letter, and these we found to be practically ready. The remaining
+necessities, guns, ammunition, camera supplies, medical supplies,
+clothes, helmets, and so on, we assembled after two days of prodigious
+hustling. There was nothing then to be done except to hope that all our
+mountainous mass of equipment would be safely installed on the steamer
+for Mombasa. This steamer, the _Adolph Woermann_, sailed from Hamburg on
+the fourteenth of August, was due at Southampton on the eighteenth and
+at Naples on the thirtieth. To avoid transporting the hundred cases of
+supplies overland to Naples, it was necessary to get them to Southampton
+on the eighteenth. It was a close shave, for only by sending them down
+by passenger train on that morning were they able to reach Southampton.
+Fortunately our hopes were fulfilled, and at last we received word that
+they were on board and were careening down toward Naples, where we
+expected to join them on the thirtieth.
+
+[Drawing: Map]
+
+[Drawing: Map]
+
+[Drawing: _Studying the Lion's Vital Spots_]
+
+After disposing of this important preliminary, we then had time to visit
+the zoo at South Kensington and the British museum of natural history,
+where we carefully studied many of the animals that we hoped to meet
+later under less formal conditions. We picked out the vital spots, as
+seen from all angles, and nothing then remained to be done but to get
+down to British East Africa with our rifles and see whether we could hit
+those vital spots.
+
+Mr. Akeley had an elaborate moving picture machine and we planned to get
+some excellent pictures of charging animals. The lion, rhino or other
+subject was to be allowed to charge within a few feet of the camera and
+then with a crack of our trusty rifles he was supposed to stop. We
+seemed safe in assuming, even without exaggeration, that this would be
+exciting.
+
+It was at least that.
+
+At last we said farewell to London, a one-sided ceremony, stopped at
+Rheims to see the aviators, joined the Akeleys at Paris, and after
+touching a few of the high spots in Europe, arrived in Naples in ample
+time to catch our boat for Mombasa.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE FIRST HALF OF THE VOYAGE. FROM NAPLES TO THE RED SEA, WITH A FEW
+SIDE LIGHTS ON INDIAN OCEAN TRAVEL
+
+
+Lion hunting had not been fraught with any great hardships or dangers up
+to this time. The Mediterranean was as smooth as a mill-pond, the Suez
+Canal was free from any tempestuous rolling, and the Red Sea was placid
+and hot. After some days we were in the Indian Ocean, plowing lazily
+along and counting the hours until we reached Mombasa. Perhaps after
+that the life of a lion hunter would be less tranquil and calm.
+
+The _Adolph Woermann_ was a six-thousand-three-hundred-ton ship, three
+years old, and so heavily laden with guns and ammunition and steel rails
+for the Tanga Railway that it would hardly roll in a hurricane. There
+were about sixty first-class passengers on board and a fair number in
+the second class. These passengers represented a dozen or so different
+nationalities, and were bound for all sorts of places in East, Central,
+and South Africa. Some were government officials going out to their
+stations, some were army officers, some were professional hunters, and
+some were private hunters going out "for" to shoot.
+
+There were also a number of women on board and some children. I don't
+know how many children there were, but in the early morning there seemed
+to be a great number.
+
+These Indian Ocean steamers are usually filled with an interesting lot
+of passengers. At first you may only speculate as to who and what they
+are and whither they are bound, but as the days go by you get acquainted
+with many of them and find out who nearly everybody is and all about
+him. On this steamer there were several interesting people. First in
+station and importance was Sir Percy Girouard, the newly appointed
+governor of British East Africa, who was going out to Nairobi to take
+his position. Sir Percy is a splendid type of man, only about forty-two
+years old, but with a career that has been filled with brilliant
+achievements. He was born in Canada and was knighted in 1900. He looks
+as Colonel Roosevelt looked ten years ago, and, in spite of a firm,
+definite personality of great strength, is also courteous and kindly. He
+has recently been the governor of northern Nigeria, and before that time
+served in South Africa and the Soudan. It was of him that Lord Kitchener
+said "the Soudan Railway would never have been built without his
+services."
+
+The new governor was accompanied by two staff officers, one a Scotchman
+and the other an Irishman, and both of them with the clean, healthy look
+of the young British army officer. There would be a big reception at
+Mombasa, no doubt, with bands a-playing and fireworks popping, when the
+ship arrived with the new executive.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. "Crossing the Line"
+Ceremonies]
+
+[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson, Mr. and Mrs. Akeley and Mr. McCutcheon.
+Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition]
+
+[Drawing: _Before and After Outfitting_]
+
+There were also several officials with high-sounding titles who were
+going out to their stations in German East Africa. These gentlemen were
+mostly accompanied by wives and babies and between them they imparted a
+spirited scene of domesticity to the life on shipboard. The effect of a
+man wheeling a baby carriage about the deck was to make one think of
+some peaceful place far from the deck of a steamer.
+
+Little Tim was the life of the ship. He was a little boy aged eighteen
+months, who began life at Sombra, in Nyassaland, British Central Africa.
+Just now he was returning from England with his father and mother.
+Little Tim had curly hair, looked something like a brownie, and was
+brimming over with energy and curiosity every moment that he was awake.
+If left alone five minutes he was quite likely to try to climb up the
+rigging. Consequently he was never left alone, and the decks were
+constantly echoing with a fond mother's voice begging him not to "do
+that," or to "come right here, Tim." One of Tim's chief diversions was
+to divest himself of all but his two nearest articles of wear and sit in
+the scuppers with the water turned on. A crowd of passengers was usually
+grouped around him and watched his manoeuvers with intense interest.
+He was probably photographed a hundred times and envied by everybody on
+board. It was so fearfully hot in the Red Sea that to be seated in
+running water with almost no clothes on seemed about the nicest possible
+way to pass the time.
+
+[Drawing: _Little Tim_]
+
+There was a professional elephant hunter on board. He was a quiet,
+reserved sort of man, pleasant, and not at all bloodthirsty in
+appearance. He had spent twenty years shooting in Africa, and had killed
+three hundred elephants. On his last trip, during which he spent nearly
+four years in the Congo, he secured about two and one-half tons of
+ivory. This great quantity of tusks, worth nearly five dollars a pound,
+brought him over twenty thousand dollars, after paying ten per cent. to
+the Congo government. The Belgians place no limit upon the number of
+elephants one may shoot, just so they get their rake-off. In British
+territory, however, sportsmen are limited to only two elephants a year
+to those holding licenses to shoot. Our elephant hunter friend was now
+on his way back to shoot some more.
+
+[Drawing: _The Elephant Hunter and His Bag_]
+
+There was another interesting character on board who caused many of us
+to stop and think. He was a young British army officer who was mauled by
+a lioness several months ago in Somaliland. He now walked with a decided
+limp and was likely to lose his commission in the army because of
+physical infirmities. He was cheerful, pleasant, and looked hopefully
+forward to a time when he could have another go at a lion. This is the
+way the thing happened: Last March he was shooting in Somaliland and ran
+across a lioness. He shot her, but failed to disable her. She
+immediately charged, chewed up his leg, arm and shoulder, and was then
+killed by his Somali gunbearer. He was days from any help. He dressed
+his own wounds and the natives tried to carry him to the nearest
+settlement. Finally his bandages were exhausted, the natives deserted,
+and it was only after frightful suffering that he reached help. In three
+weeks blood poisoning set in, as is usual after the foul teeth of a lion
+have entered the flesh, and for several months he was close to death.
+Now he was up and about, cheerful and sunny, but a serious object lesson
+to the lion hunters bound for the lair of the lion.
+
+In the smoking-room of the _Adolph Woermann_ was a bronze bust of Mr.
+Woermann presented by himself. Whether he meant to perpetuate his own
+memory is not vital to the story. The amusing feature lies in the fact
+that some irreverent passenger, whose soul was dead to the sacredness of
+art, put a rough slouch hat on Mr. Woermann one night, with
+side-splitting results. Mr. W. is a man with a strong, intelligent
+German face, something like that of Prince Henry, and in the statue
+appears with bare neck and shoulders. The addition of a rakish slouch
+hat produced a startling effect, greatly detracting from the strictly
+artistic, but adding much to the interest of the bust. It looked very
+much as though he had been ashore at Aden and had come back on board
+feeling the way a man does when he wants his hat on the side of his
+head. Still, what can a shipowner expect who puts a nude bust of himself
+in his own ship?
+
+[Drawing: _Having Fun with Mr. Woermann_]
+
+[Drawing: _An African Hair-Cut_]
+
+The ship's barber was the Associated Press of the ship's company, and
+his shop was the Park Row of the vessel. He had plenty of things to talk
+about and more than enough words to express them. Every vague rumor that
+floated about was sure to find lodgment in the barber shop, just as a
+piece of driftwood finally reaches the beach. He knew all the secrets of
+the voyage and told them freely.
+
+One day I went down to have my hair trimmed. He asked if I'd have it
+done African style. "How's that?" I inquired. "Shaved," said he, and
+"No," said I. A number of the Germans on board were adopting the African
+style of hair-cut, and the effect was something depressing. Every bump
+that had lain dormant under a mat of hair at once assumed startling
+proportions, and red ears that were retiring suddenly stuck out from the
+pale white scalp like immense flappers. A devotee of this school of
+tonsorial art had a peeled look that did not commend him to favorable
+mention in artistic circles. But the flies, they loved it, so it was an
+ill wind that blew no good.
+
+The Red Sea has a well-earned reputation of being hot. We expected a
+certain amount of sultriness, but not in such lavish prodigality as it
+was delivered. The first day out from Suez found the passengers peeling
+off unnecessary clothes, and the next day found the men sleeping out on
+deck. There wasn't much sleeping. The band concert lasted until
+ten-thirty, then the three Germans who were trying to drink all the beer
+on board gave a nightly saengerfest that lasted until one o'clock, and
+then the men who wash down the decks appeared at four. Between one and
+four it was too hot to sleep, so that there wasn't much restful repose
+on the ship until we got out of the Red Sea.
+
+[Drawing: _We Slept on Deck in the Red Sea_]
+
+Down at the end of the Red Sea are the straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. In the
+middle of the straits is the island of Perim, a sun-baked, bare and
+uninviting chunk of land that has great strategic value and little else.
+It absolutely commands the entrance to the Red Sea, and, naturally, is
+British. Nearly all strategic points in the East are British, from
+Gibraltar to Singapore. A lighthouse, a signal station, and a small
+detachment of troops are the sole points of interest in Perim, and as
+one rides past one breathes a fervent prayer of thanksgiving that he is
+not one of the summer colony on Perim.
+
+They tell a funny story about an English officer who was sent to Perim
+to command the detachment. At the end of six months an official order
+was sent for his transfer, because no one is expected to last longer
+than six months without going crazy or committing suicide. To the great
+surprise of the war office a letter came back stating that the officer
+was quite contented at Perim, that he liked the peace and quiet of the
+place, and begged that he be given leave to remain another six months.
+The war office was amazed, and it gladly gave him the extension. At the
+end of a year the same exchange of letters occurred and again he was
+given the extension.
+
+I don't know how long this continued, but in the end the war office
+discovered that the officer had been in London having a good time while
+a sergeant-major attended to the sending of the biannual letter. I
+suppose the officer divided his pay with the sergeant-major. If he did
+not he was a most ungrateful man.
+
+The _Adolph Woermann_ is a German ship and is one of the best ones that
+go down the east coast. Its passengers go to the British ports in
+British East Africa, to the German ports in German East Africa, and to
+several other ports in South Africa. Consequently the passengers are
+about equally divided between the English and the Germans, with an
+occasional Portuguese bound for Delagoa Bay or Mozambique.
+
+When we first went aboard our party of four desired to secure a table by
+ourselves. We were unsuccessful, however, and found it shared by a
+peaceful old gentleman with whiskers. By crossing with gold the palm of
+the chief steward, the old gentleman was shifted to a seat on the first
+officer's right. Later we discovered that he was Sir Thomas Scanlon, the
+first premier of South Africa, the man who gave Cecil Rhodes his start.
+
+There were many interesting elements which made the cruise of the
+_Woermann_ unusual. Mr. Boyce and his party of six were on board and
+were on their way to photograph East Africa. They took moving pictures
+of the various deck sports, also a bird's-eye picture of the ship, taken
+from a camera suspended by a number of box kites, and also gave two
+evenings of cinematograph entertainment.
+
+There were also poker games, bridge games, and other forms of seaside
+sports, all of which contributed to the gaiety of life in the Indian
+Ocean. In the evening one might have imagined oneself at a London
+music-hall, in the daytime at the Olympian games, and in the early
+morning out on the farm. There were a number of chickens on board and
+each rooster seemed obliged to salute the dawn with a fanfare of
+crowing. They belonged to the governor and were going out to East Africa
+to found a colony of chickens. Some day, years hence, the proud
+descendents of these chickens will boast that their ancestors came over
+on the _Woermann_, just as some people boast about their ancestors on
+the _Mayflower_.
+
+[Drawing: _Mauled by a Lion_]
+
+When we crossed the equator, a committee of strong-arm men baptized
+those of the passengers who had never before crossed the line. Those who
+had crossed the line entered into the fun of the occasion with much
+spirit and enthusiasm.
+
+On the hottest day of the trip, just as we left Suez, when the mercury
+was sputtering from the heat, we heard that the north pole had been
+discovered. It cooled us off considerably for a while.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE ISLAND OF MOMBASA, WITH THE JUNGLES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA "ONLY A FEW
+BLOCKS AWAY." A STORY OF THE WORLD'S CHAMPION MAN-EATING LIONS
+
+
+In this voyage of the _Woermann_ there were about twenty Englishmen and
+thirty Germans in the first class, not including women, and children.
+There was practically no communication between the two nationalities,
+which seemed deeply significant in these days when there is so much talk
+of war between England and Germany. Each went his way without so much as
+a "good morning" or a _guten abend_. And it was not a case of
+unfamiliarity with the languages, either, that caused this mutual
+restraint, for most of the Germans speak English. It was simply an
+evidence that at the present time there is decidedly bad feeling between
+the two races, and if it is a correct barometer of conditions in Europe,
+there is certain to be war one of these days. On the _Woermann_, we only
+hoped that it would not break out while the weather was as hot as it was
+at that time.
+
+The Germans are not addicted to deck sports while voyaging about, and it
+is quite unusual to find on German ships anything in the way of deck
+competition. The German, while resting, prefers to play cards, or sing,
+or sit in his long easy chair with the children playing about. The
+Englishman likes to compete in feats of strength and takes to deck
+sports as a duck takes to water. I don't know who started it, but some
+one organized deck sports on the _Woermann_, and after we left Aden the
+sound of battle raged without cessation. Some of the competitions were
+amusing. For instance, there was the cockfight. Two men, with hands and
+knees hobbled with a stick and stout rope, seat themselves inside a
+circle, and the game is for each one to try to put the other outside the
+circle. Neither can use his hands.
+
+[Drawing: _The Cock Fight_]
+
+It is like wrestling in a sitting position with both hands tied, the
+mode of attack being to topple over one's opponent and then bunt him out
+of the circle. There is considerable skill in the game and a fearful lot
+of hard work. By the time the victor has won, the seat of the trousers
+of each of the two contending heroes has cleaned the deck until it
+shines--the deck, not the trousers.
+
+In a similar way the deck is benefited by the "are you there" game. Two
+men are blindfolded, armed with long paper clubs, and then lie at full
+length on the deck, with left hands clasped. One then says, "Are you
+there?" and when the other answers, "I am," he makes a wild swat at
+where he thinks the other's head to be. Of course, when the man says "I
+am," he immediately gets his head as far away from where it was when he
+spoke as is possible while clasping his opponent's hand. The "Are you
+there" man makes a wild swing and lands some place with a prodigious
+thump. He usually strikes the deck and seldom hits the head of the other
+man. If one of them hits the other's head three times he wins. In the
+meantime the deck has been thoroughly massaged by the two recumbent
+heroes as they have moved back and forth in their various offensive and
+defensive manoeuvers.
+
+[Drawing: "_Are You There?_"]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Study in Mombasa Shadows]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mombasa Is a Pretty Place]
+
+[Photograph: Transportation in Mombasa]
+
+[Drawing: _The Spar and Pillow Fight_]
+
+The pillow fight on the spar is the most fun. Two gladiators armed with
+pillows sit astride a spar and try to knock each other off. It requires
+a good deal of knack to keep your balance while some one is pounding you
+with a large pillow. You are not allowed to touch the spar with your
+hands, hence the difficulty of holding a difficult position. When a man
+begins to waver the other redoubles his attack, and slowly at first, but
+surely, the defeated gladiator tumbles off the spar into a canvas
+stretched several feet below. It is lots of fun, especially for the
+spectator and the winner.
+
+Then, of course, there were other feats of intellectual and physical
+prowess in the _Woermann_ competition, such as threading the needle,
+where you run across the deck, thread a needle held by a woman, and then
+drag her back to the starting point. The woman usually, in the
+excitement of the last spirited rush, falls over and is bodily dragged
+several yards, squealing wildly and waving a couple of much agitated
+deck shoes, and so forth.
+
+Similar to this contest is the one where the gentleman dashes across the
+deck with several other equally dashing gentlemen, kneels at the feet of
+a woman who ties his necktie and then lights his cigarette. The game is
+to see who can do this the quickest and get back to the starting place
+first. If you have ever tried to light a cigarette in a terrible hurry
+and on a windy deck, you will appreciate the elements of uncertainty in
+the game.
+
+These deck sports served to amuse and divert during the six days on the
+Indian Ocean, and then the ship's chart said that we were almost at
+Mombasa. The theoretical stage of the lion hunt was nearly over and it
+was now a matter of only a few days until we should be up against the
+"real thing." I sometimes wondered how I should act with a hostile lion
+in front of me--whether I would become panic-stricken or whether my
+nerve would hold true. There is lots of food for reverie when one is
+going against big game for the first time.
+
+[Drawing: _Chalking the Pig's Eye_]
+
+We landed at Mombasa September sixteenth, seventeen days out from
+Naples.
+
+Mombasa is a little island about two by three miles in extent. It is
+riotous with brilliant vegetation, and, as seen after a long sea voyage
+through the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean, it looks heavenly except for
+the heat. Hundreds of great baobab trees with huge, bottle-like trunks
+and hundreds of broad spreading mango trees give an effect of tropical
+luxuriance that is hardly to be excelled in beauty anywhere in the East.
+Large ships that stop at the island usually wind their course through a
+narrow channel and land their passengers and freight at the dock at
+Kilindini, a mile and a half from the old Portuguese town of Mombasa,
+where all the life of the island is centered. There are many relics of
+the old days around the town of Mombasa and the port of Kilindini, but
+since the British have been in possession a brisk air of progress and
+enterprise is evident everywhere. Young men and young women in tennis
+flannels, and other typical symptoms of British occupation are
+constantly seen, and one entirely forgets that one is several thousand
+miles from home and only a few blocks from the jungles of equatorial
+Africa. We dreaded Mombasa before we arrived, but were soon agreeably
+disappointed to find it not only beautiful and interesting, but also
+pleasantly cool and full of most hospitable social life.
+
+When our ship anchored off Kilindini there was a great crowd assembled
+on the pier. There were many smart looking boats, manned with uniformed
+natives, that at once came out to the ship, and we knew that the town
+was _en fête_ to welcome the newly appointed governor, Sir Percy
+Girouard.
+
+He and his staff landed in full uniform. There were addresses of welcome
+at the pier, a great deal of cheering and considerable photographing.
+Then the rest of the passengers went ashore and spent several hours at
+the custom house. All personal luggage was passed through, and we
+embarked on a little train for Mombasa. The next day we registered our
+firearms and had Smith, Mackenzie and Company do the rest. This firm is
+ubiquitous in Mombasa and Zanzibar. They attend to everything for you,
+and relieve you from much worry, vexation and rupees. They pay your
+customs duties, get your mountains of stuff on the train for Nairobi,
+and all you have to do is to pay them a commission and look pleasant.
+The customs duty is ten per cent. on everything you have, and the
+commission is five per cent. But in a hot climate, where one is apt to
+feel lazy, the price is cheap.
+
+Thanks to the governor, our party of four was invited to go to Nairobi
+on his special train. It left Mombasa on the morning of the nineteenth
+of September, and at once began to climb toward the plateau on which
+Nairobi is situated, three hundred and twenty-seven miles away. We had
+dreaded the railway ride through the lowlands along the coast, for that
+district has a bad reputation for fever and all such ills. But again we
+were pleasantly disappointed. The country was beautiful and interesting,
+and at four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Voi, a spot that is
+synonymous with human ailments. It is one of the famous ill health
+resorts of Africa, but on this occasion it was on its good behavior. We
+stopped four hours, inspected everything in sight, and at eight o'clock
+the special began to climb toward the plateau of East Africa. At nine
+o'clock we stopped at Tsavo, a place made famous by the two man-eating
+lions whose terrible depredations have been so vividly described by
+Colonel Patterson in his book, _The Man Eaters of Tsavo_. These two
+lions absolutely stopped all work on the railroad for a period of
+several weeks. They were daring beyond belief, and seemed to have no
+fear of human beings. For a time all efforts to kill them were in vain.
+Twenty-eight native workmen were eaten by them, and doubtless many more
+were unrecorded victims of their activity. The whole country was
+terrorized until finally, after many futile attempts, they were at last
+killed.
+
+No book on Africa seems complete unless this incident is mentioned
+somewhere within its pages.
+
+We looked out at Tsavo with devouring interest. All was still, with the
+dead silence of a tropical night. Then the train steamed on and we had
+several hours in a berth to think the matter over. In the early hours of
+morning, we stopped at Simba, the "Place of Lions," where the
+station-master has many lion scares even now. In the cold darkness of
+the night we bundled up in thick clothes and went forward to sit on the
+observation seat of the engine. Slowly the eastern skies became gray,
+then pink, and finally day broke through heavy masses of clouds. It was
+intensely cold. In the faint light we could see shadowy figures of
+animals creeping home after their night's hunting. A huge cheetah
+bounded along the track in front of us. A troop of giraffes slowly
+ambled away from the track. A gaunt hyena loped off into the scrub near
+the side of the railroad and then, as daylight became brighter, we found
+ourselves in the midst of thousands of wild animals. Zebras,
+hartebeests, Grant's gazelles, Thompson's gazelles, impalla, giraffes,
+wildebeests, and many other antelope species cantered off and stood to
+watch the train as it swept past them. It was a wonderful ride, perhaps
+the most novel railway ride to be found any place in the world. On each
+side of the Uganda Railroad there is a strip of land, narrow on the
+north and wide on the south, in which game is protected from the
+sportsman, and consequently the animals have learned to regard these
+strips as sanctuary. There were many tales of lions as we rode along,
+and the imagination pictured a slinking lion in every patch of reeds
+along the way. I heard one lion story that makes the man-eaters of Tsavo
+seem like vegetarians. It was told to me by a gentleman high in the
+government service--a man of unimpeachable veracity. He says the story
+is absolutely true, but refused to swear to it.
+
+Once upon a time, so the story goes, there was a caravan of slaves
+moving through the jungles of Africa. The slave-drivers were cruel and
+they chained the poor savages together in bunches of ten. Each slave
+wore an iron ring around his neck and the chain passed through this ring
+and on to the rest of the ten. For days and weeks and months they
+marched along, their chains clanking and their shoulders bending beneath
+the heavy weight. From time to time the slave-drivers would jog them
+along with a few lashes from a four-cornered "hippo" hide _kiboko_, or
+whip. Quite naturally the life was far from pleasant to the chain-gang
+and they watched eagerly for a chance to escape. Finally one dark night,
+when the sentinels were asleep, a bunch of ten succeeded in creeping
+away into the darkness. They were unarmed and chained from neck to neck,
+one to another. For several days they made their way steadily toward the
+coast. All seemed well. They ate fruit and nuts and herbs and began to
+see visions of a pleasant arrival at the coast.
+
+[Drawing: _They Made Their Way Steadily Toward the Coast_]
+
+But, alas! Their hopes were soon to be dispelled. One night a deep
+rumbling roar was heard in the jungle through which they were picking
+their unanimous way. A shudder ran through the slaves. "_Simba_," they
+whispered in terror. A little while later there was another rumble, this
+time much closer. They speedily became more frightened. Here they were,
+ten days' march from the coast, unarmed, and quite defenseless against a
+lion.
+
+Presently the lion appeared, his cruel, hungry eyes gleaming through the
+night. They were frozen with horror, as slowly, slowly, slowly the great
+animal crept toward them with his tail sibilantly lashing above his
+back. They were now thoroughly alarmed and realized to the utmost that
+the lion's intentions were open to grave suspicion. Breathlessly they
+waited, or perhaps they tried to climb trees, but being chained together
+they could not climb more than one tree. And there was not a single tree
+big enough to hold more than nine of them. The record of the story is
+now obscure, but the horrid tale goes on to relate that the lion gave a
+frightful roar and leaped upon the tenth man, biting him to death in a
+single snap. The dilemma of the others is obvious. They knew better than
+to disturb a lion while it is eating. To do so would be to court sudden
+death. So they sat still and watched the beast slowly and greedily
+devour their comrade. Having finished his meal the great beast,
+surfeited with food, slowly moved off into the jungle.
+
+[Drawing: _The Lion's Intentions Were Open to Grave Suspicions_]
+
+Immediately the nine remaining slaves took to their heels, dragging the
+empty ring and chain of the late number ten. All night long they ran
+until finally they became exhausted and fell asleep. In the afternoon
+they again resumed their march, hopeful once more. But alas! again.
+
+Along about supper-time they heard the distant roar of a lion. Presently
+it sounded nearer and soon the gleaming eyes of the lion appeared once
+more among the jungle grass. Once again they were frozen with horror as
+the hungry beast devoured the last man in the row--number nine. Again
+they sat helpless while the man-eater slowly finished his supper, and
+again they were overjoyed to see him depart from their midst. As soon as
+the last vestige of his tail had disappeared from view they scrambled up
+and hiked briskly toward the coast, nine days away.
+
+[Drawing: _While the Man-Eater Finished His Supper_]
+
+They were now thoroughly alarmed, and almost dreaded the supper hour.
+The next night the lion caught up with them again and proceeded to
+devour number eight. He then peacefully ambled away, leaving another
+empty ring.
+
+The next night there was a spirited contest to see which end of the
+chain should be last, but a vote was taken and it was decided six to one
+in favor of continuing in their original formation. The one who voted
+against was eaten that night and the remaining six, with the four empty
+rings clanking behind them, resumed their mournful march to the coast,
+six days away.
+
+[Drawing: _Two to One_]
+
+For five nights after this, the lion caught up with them and diminished
+their number by five. Finally there was only one left and the coast was
+a full day's march away. Could he make it? It looked like a desperate
+chance, but he still had hopes. He noticed with pleasure that the lion
+was becoming fat and probably could not travel fast. But he also noticed
+with displeasure that he had forty feet of chain and nine heavy iron
+neck rings to lug along and that extra weight naturally greatly
+handicapped him. It was a thrilling race--the coast only one day away
+and life or death the prize! Who can imagine the feelings of the poor
+slave? But with a stout heart he struggled on through poisonous
+morasses, and pushed his way through snaky creepers. The afternoon sun
+slowly sank toward the western horizon and--
+
+The locomotive at this point of the story screeched loudly. The wheels
+grated on the track and my official friend leaped off the cow-catcher.
+
+"Here!" I shouted, "what's the finish of that story?"
+
+"I'll tell you the rest the next time I see you," he sang out, and so I
+don't know just how the story ended.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ON THE EDGE OF THE ATHI PLAINS, FACE TO FACE WITH GREAT HERDS OF WILD
+GAME. UP IN A BALLOON AT NAIROBI
+
+
+Before Colonel Roosevelt drew the eyes of the world on British East
+Africa Nairobi was practically unheard of. The British colonial office
+knew where it was and a fair number of English sportsmen had visited it
+in the last six or eight years. Perhaps twenty-five or thirty Americans
+had been in Nairobi on their way to the rich game fields that lie in all
+directions from the town, but beyond these few outsiders the place was
+unknown. Now it is decidedly on the map, thanks to our gallant and
+picturesque Theodore. It has been mentioned in book and magazine to a
+degree that nearly everybody can tell in a general way where and what it
+is, even if he can not pronounce it.
+
+Before coming to Nairobi I had read a lot about it, and yet when I
+reached the place it seemed as though the descriptions had failed to
+prepare me for what I saw. We arrived under unusual conditions. Files of
+native soldiers were lined up on the platform of the station to welcome
+the new governor, and the whole white population of the town, several
+hundred in number, were massed in front of the building. The roofs and
+trees were filled with natives and the broad open space beyond the
+station was fringed with pony carts, bullock carts, rickshaws, cameras,
+and some hotel 'buses. Several thousand people, mostly East Indians and
+natives, were among those present. Lord Delamere, who has adopted East
+Africa as his home, and who owns a hundred thousand acres or so of game
+preserves, read an address of welcome, and Sir Percy, in white uniform
+and helmet, responded with a speech that struck a popular note. There
+were dozens of cameras snapping and the whole effect was distinctly
+festive in appearance.
+
+[Drawing: _In the Back Yard of Nairobi_]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Dressed to Kill]
+
+[Photograph: Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition. The Balloon
+Ascension]
+
+[Photograph: Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition. The Norfolk
+Hotel, Nairobi]
+
+The town lies on the edge of the Athi Plains, a broad sweep of
+sun-bleached grass veldt many miles in extent. From almost any part of
+the town one may look out on plains where great herds of wild game are
+constantly in sight. In an hour's leisurely walk from the station a man
+with a gun can get hartebeest, zebra, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's
+gazelle, impalla, and probably wildebeest. One can not possibly count
+the number of animals that feed contentedly within sight of the town of
+Nairobi, and it is difficult to think that one is not looking out upon a
+collection of domesticated game. Sometimes, as happened two nights
+before we reached Nairobi, a lion will chase a herd of zebra and the
+latter in fright will tear through the town, destroying gardens and
+fences and flowers in a mad stampede. We met one man who goes out ten
+minutes from town every other day and kills a kongoni (hartebeest) as
+food for his dogs. If you were disposed to do so you could kill dozens
+every day with little effort and almost no diminution of the visible
+supply.
+
+Nairobi is new and unattractive. There is one long main thoroughfare,
+quite wide and fringed with trees, along which at wide intervals are the
+substantial looking stone building of the Bank of India, the business
+houses, the hotels, and numbers of cheap corrugated iron, one-story
+shacks used for government purposes. A native barracks with low iron
+houses and some more little iron houses used for medical experiments and
+still some more for use as native hospitals are encountered as one takes
+the half-mile ride from the station to the hotel. A big square filled
+with large trees marks the park, and a number of rather pretentious
+one-story buildings display signs that tell you where you may buy almost
+anything, from a suit of clothes to a magazine rifle.
+
+[Drawing: _The Main Street Is a Busy Place_]
+
+Goanese, East Indian, and European shops are scattered at intervals
+along this one long, wide street. Rickshaws, pedestrians, bullock carts,
+horsemen, and heavily burdened porters are passing constantly back and
+forth, almost always in the middle of the street. Bicycles, one or two
+motorcycles, and a couple of automobiles are occasionally to be seen.
+The aspect of the town suggests the activity of a new frontier place
+where everybody is busy. At one end the long street loses itself in the
+broad Athi Plains, at the other it climbs up over some low hills and
+enters the residence district on higher ground. Here the hills are
+generously covered with a straggly growth of tall, ungraceful trees,
+among which, almost hidden from view, are the widely scattered bungalows
+of the white population.
+
+[Photograph: An Embo Apollo]
+
+
+[Photograph: The Askari Patrols the Camp]
+
+Branching off from the main street are side streets, some of them
+thronged with East Indian bazaars, about which may be found all the
+phases of life of an Indian city. Still beyond and parallel with the one
+main street are sparsely settled streets which look ragged with their
+tin shacks and scattered gardens.
+
+Nairobi is not a beautiful place, but it is new and busy, and the people
+who live there are working wonders in changing a bad location into what
+some day will be a pretty place. It is over five thousand feet high,
+healthy, and cold at night. Away off in the hills a mile or more from
+town is Government House, where the governor lives, and near by is the
+club and a new European hospital, looking out over a sweep of country
+that on clear days includes Kilima-Njaro, over a hundred miles to the
+southeast, and Mount Kenia, a hundred miles northeast.
+
+You are still in civilization in Nairobi. Anything you want you may buy
+at some of the shops, and almost anything you may want to eat or drink
+may easily be had. There are weekly newspapers, churches, clubs, hotels,
+and nearly all the by-products of civilization. One could live in
+Nairobi, only a few miles from the equator, wear summer clothes at noon
+and winter clothes at night, keep well, and not miss many of the
+luxuries of life. The telegraph puts you in immediate touch with the
+whole wide world, and on the thirtieth of September you can read the
+Chicago _Tribune_ of August thirty-first.
+
+At present the chief revenue of the government is derived from shooting
+parties, and the officials are doing all they can to encourage the
+coming of sportsmen. Each man who comes to shoot must pay two hundred
+and fifty dollars for his license as well as employ at least thirty
+natives for his transport. He must buy supplies, pay ten per cent.
+import and export tax, and in many other ways spend money which goes
+toward paying the expenses of government. The government also is
+encouraging various agricultural and stock raising experiments, but
+these have not yet passed the experimental stage. Almost anything may be
+grown in British East Africa, but before agriculture can be made to pay
+the vast herds of wild game must either be exterminated or driven away.
+No fence will keep out a herd of zebra, and in one rush a field of grain
+is ruined by these giant herds. Experiments have failed satisfactorily
+to domesticate the zebra, and so he remains a menace to agriculture and
+a nuisance in all respects except as adding a picturesque note to the
+landscape.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt, in a recent speech in Nairobi, spoke of British East
+Africa as a land of enormous possibilities and promise, but in talks
+with many men here I found that little money has been made by those who
+have gone into agriculture in a large way. Drought and predatory herds
+of game have introduced an element of uncertainty which has made
+agriculture, as at present developed, unsatisfactory.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt has become a popular idol in East Africa. Everywhere
+one meets Englishmen who express the greatest admiration for him. He has
+shrewdly analyzed conditions as they now exist and has picked out the
+weak spots in the government. For many years prior to the arrival of Sir
+Percy Girouard the country has been administered by weak executives, and
+its progress has been greatly retarded thereby. The last governor was
+kind, but inefficient, and some months ago was sent to the West Indies,
+where he is officially buried. Roosevelt came, sized up the situation,
+and made a speech at a big banquet in Nairobi. Nearly two hundred white
+men in evening clothes were there. They came from all parts of East
+Africa, and listened with admiration to the plain truths that Theodore
+Roosevelt told them in the manner of a Dutch uncle. Since then he has
+owned the country and could be elected to any office within the gift of
+the people. He talked for over an hour, and it must have been a great
+speech, if one may judge by the enthusiastic comments I have heard about
+it. When an Englishman gets enthusiastic about a speech by an American
+it must be a pretty good speech.
+
+Newland and Tarlton is the firm that outfits most shooting parties that
+start out from Nairobi. They do all the preliminary work and relieve you
+of most of the worry. If you wish them to do so, they will get your
+complete outfit, so you need not bring anything with you but a suitcase.
+They will get your guns, your tents, your food supplies, your mules,
+your head-man, your cook, your gunbearers, your askaris (native
+soldiers), your interpreter, your ammunition, and your porters. They
+will have the whole outfit ready for you by the time you arrive in
+Nairobi. When you arrive in British East Africa, a-shooting bent, you
+will hear of Newland and Tarlton so often that you will think they own
+the country.
+
+Mr. Newland met us in Mombasa, and through his agents sent all of our
+London equipment of tents and guns and ammunition and food up to
+Nairobi. When we arrived in Nairobi he had our porters ready, together
+with tent boys, gunbearers, and all the other members of our _safari_,
+and in three days we were ready to march. The firm has systematized
+methods so much that it is simple for them to do what would be matters
+of endless worry to the stranger. In course of time you pay the price,
+and in our case it seemed reasonable, when one considers the work and
+worry involved. Most English sportsmen come out in October and November,
+after which time the shooting is at its height. Two years ago there were
+sixty _safaris_, or shooting expeditions, sent out from Nairobi. When we
+left, late in September, there were about thirty.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Great White Way in
+Nairobi]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce The Busiest Place in Nairobi]
+
+[Photograph: Umbrella Acacias]
+
+[Drawing: _The New Governor Looks Something Like Roosevelt_]
+
+Each party must have from thirty to a couple of hundred camp attendants,
+depending upon the number of white men in the party. Each white man,
+requires, roughly, thirty natives to take care of him. In our party of
+four white people we had one hundred and eighteen. One would presume
+that the game would speedily be exterminated, yet it is said that the
+game is constantly increasing. After one day's ride on the railway it
+would be hard to conceive of game being more plentiful than it was while
+we were there. Mr. Roosevelt carried nearly three hundred men with him,
+collected a great quantity of game, and necessarily spent a great deal
+of money. It is said that the expenses of his expedition approached ten
+thousand dollars a month, but the chances are that this figure is much
+more than the actual figure.
+
+At the time of our arrival there was a shortage in the porter supply,
+and we were obliged to take out men from a number of different tribes.
+Swahili porters are considered the best, but there are not enough to go
+round, so we had to take Swahilis, Bagandas, Kikuyus, Kavirondos,
+Lumbwas, Minyamwezis, and a lot more of assorted races. Each porter
+carries sixty pounds on his head, and when the whole outfit is on the
+trail it looks like a procession of much importance.
+
+The Norfolk Hotel is the chief rendezvous of Nairobi. In the course of
+the afternoon nearly all the white men on hunting bent show up at the
+hotel and patronize the bar. They come in wonderful hunting regalia and
+in all the wonderful splendor of the Britisher when he is afield. There
+is nearly always a great coming and going of men riding up, and of
+rickshaws arriving and departing. Usually several tired sportsmen are
+stretched out on the veranda of the long one-storied building, reading
+the ancient London papers that are lying about. Professional guides,
+arrayed in picturesque Buffalo Bill outfits, with spurs and
+hunting-knives and slouch hats, are among those present, and amateur
+sportsmen in crisp khaki and sun helmets and new puttees swagger back
+and forth to the bar. There is no denying the fact that there is
+considerable drinking in Nairobi. There was as much before we got there
+as there was after we got there, however. After the arrival of the
+European steamer at Mombasa business is brisk for several days as the
+different parties sally forth for the wilds.
+
+[Drawing: _At the Norfolk Hotel Bar_]
+
+On our ship there were four different parties. A young American from
+Boston, who has been spending several years doing archæological work in
+Crete, accompanied by a young English cavalry officer, were starting out
+for a six-weeks' shoot south of the railway and near Victoria Nyanza.
+
+Two professional ivory hunters were starting for German East Africa by
+way of the lake. Mr. Boyce and his African balloonograph party of seven
+white men were preparing for the photographing expedition in the Sotik,
+and our party of four was making final preparations for our march.
+Consequently there was much hurrying about, and Newland and Tarlton's
+warehouse was the center of throngs of waiting porters and the scene of
+intense activity as each party sorted and assembled its mountains of
+supplies.
+
+Seager and Wormald got off first, going by train to Kijabe, where they
+were to begin their ten days' march in the Sotik. Here they were to try
+their luck for two or three weeks and then march back, preparatory to
+starting home.
+
+The professional ivory hunters were slow in starting. There was delay in
+getting mules. One of them had shot three hundred elephants in the
+Belgian Congo during the last four years, and it was suspected he had
+been poaching. The other had been caught by the Belgian authorities on
+his last trip, lost all his ivory and guns by confiscation, but was
+ready to make another try. The ivory game is a rich one and there are
+always venturesome men who are willing to take chances with the law in
+getting the prizes.
+
+The Boyce party with its two balloons and its great number of box kites
+and its moving picture equipment and its twenty-nine cameras and its
+vast equipment was slow in starting, but it expected to get away on
+September twenty-fourth, the day after we left. They planned to fill
+their balloon in Nairobi and tow it at the end of a special train as far
+as Kijabe, where they were to strike inland from the railway. They were
+encamped on a hill overlooking the city, with their two hundred and
+thirty porters ready for the field and their balloon ready to make the
+first ascension ever attempted in East Africa.
+
+Throngs of natives squatted about, watching the final preparations, and
+doubtless wondered what the strange, swaying object was. On the evening
+of the twenty-second the party gave a moving picture show at one of the
+clubs for the benefit of St. Andrew's church. A great crowd of
+fashionably dressed people turned out and saw the motion picture records
+of events which they had seen in life only a couple of days before.
+There were moving pictures of the arrival of the governor's special
+train, his march through the city, and many other events that were fresh
+in the minds of the audience. There were also motion pictures taken on
+the ship that brought us down from Naples to Mombasa, and it was most
+interesting to see our fellow passengers and friends reproduced before
+us in their various athletic activities while on shipboard. Mr. Boyce
+gave an afternoon show for children, an evening show for grown-ups, and
+was to give another for the natives the following night. The charities
+of Nairobi were much richer because of Mr. Boyce and his African
+Balloonograph Expedition.
+
+While in Nairobi we visited the little station where experiments are
+being made in the "sleeping sickness." An intelligent young English
+doctor is conducting the investigations and great hopes are entertained
+of much new information about that most mysterious ailment that has
+swept whole colonies of blacks away in the last few years.
+
+In many little bottles were specimens of the deadly tsetse fly that
+causes all the infection. And the most deadly of all was the small one
+whose distinguishing characteristic was its wings, which crossed over
+its back. These we were told to look out for and to avoid them, if
+possible. They occur only in certain districts and live in the deep
+shade, near water. They also are day-biting insects, who do their biting
+only between eleven o'clock in the morning and five o'clock in the
+afternoon.
+
+In the station there were a number of monkeys, upon which the fly was
+being tried. They were in various stages of the disease, but it seemed
+impossible to tell whether their illness was due to the sleeping
+sickness germ or was due to tick fever, a common malady among monkeys.
+In one of the rooms of the laboratory there were natives holding little
+cages of tsetse flies against the monkeys, which were pinioned to the
+floor by the natives. The screened cages were held close to the stomach
+of the helpless monkey, and little apertures in the screen permitted the
+fly to settle upon and bite the animal.
+
+There are certain wide belts of land in Africa called the "tsetse fly
+belts," where horses, mules and cattle can not live. These districts
+have been known for a number of years, long before the sleeping sickness
+became known. In the case of animals, the danger could be minimized by
+keeping the animals out of those belts, but in the case of humans the
+same can not be done. One infected native from a sleeping sickness
+district can carry the disease from one end of the country to the other,
+and when once it breaks out the newly infected district is doomed.
+Consequently the British authorities are greatly alarmed, for by means
+of this deadly fly the whole population of East Africa might be wiped
+out if no remedy is discovered. It has not yet been absolutely proven
+that East Africa is a "white man's country," and in the end it may be
+necessary for him to give up hope of making it more than a place of
+temporary residence and exploration.
+
+We were also shown some ticks. They are the pests of Africa. They exist
+nearly every place and carry a particularly malicious germ that gives
+one "tick fever." It is not a deadly fever, but it is recurrent and
+weakening. There are all kinds of ticks, from little red ones no bigger
+than a grain of pepper to big fat ones the size of a finger-nail, that
+are exactly the color of the ground. They seem to have immortal life,
+for they can exist for a long time without food. Doctor Ward told us of
+some that he had put in a box, where they lived four years without food
+or water. He also told us of one that was sent to the British museum,
+put on a card with a pin through it, and lived over two years in this
+condition. It is assumed, however, that it sustained fatal injuries,
+because after a two years' fight against its wound it finally succumbed.
+
+We were told to avoid old camping grounds while on _safari_, because
+these spots were usually much infested with ticks waiting for new
+camping parties. Wild game is always covered with ticks and carries them
+all over the land. As you walk through the grass in the game country the
+ticks cling to your clothes and immediately seek for an opening where
+they may establish closer relations with you. Some animals, like the
+rhino and the eland, have tick birds that sit upon their backs and eat
+the ticks. The egrets police the eland and capture all predatory ticks,
+while the rhino usually has half a dozen little tick birds sitting upon
+him.
+
+However, we were starting out in a day or so, and in a few days expected
+to learn a lot more about ticks than we then knew.
+
+It is supposed to require a certain amount of nerve to go lion shooting.
+It is also supposed to require an additional amount to face an angry
+rhino or to attempt to get African buffalo. The last-named creature is a
+vindictive, crafty beast that is feared by old African hunters more than
+they fear any other animal. In consequence of these dangers we decided
+that it might be well to give our nerves a thorough test before going
+out with them. If they were not in good condition it would be well to
+know of it before rather than after going up against a strange and
+hostile lion.
+
+That is why we went up in the balloon in Nairobi. The balloon was one of
+the two Boyce balloons and had never been tried. It was small, of twelve
+thousand cubic feet capacity, as compared with the seventy thousand foot
+balloons that do the racing. It was also being tried at an altitude of
+over five thousand feet under uncertain wind and heat conditions, and so
+the element of uncertainty was aggravated. We felt that if we could go
+up in a new balloon of a small size it might demonstrate whether we
+should later go up a tree or stand pat against a charging menagerie.
+
+There was a great crowd gathered on the hill where this balloon was
+being inflated. Since five o'clock in the morning the gas had been
+generating in the wooden tanks, and from these was being conducted by a
+cloth tube to the mouth of the balloon. The natives squatted wonderingly
+about in a circle, mystified and excited. At three o'clock the balloon
+was over half filled and was swaying savagely at its anchorage. A strong
+wind was blowing, and Mr. Lawrence, who had charge of the ascension, was
+apprehensive. He feared to fill the balloon to its capacity lest the
+expansion of the gas due to the hot sun should explode it.
+
+At half past three the basket was attached and it looked small--about
+the size of a large bushel basket, three feet in diameter and three feet
+deep. The balloon, heavily laden with sand-bags, was lightened until it
+could almost rise, and in this condition was led across to an open spot
+sufficiently far from the nearest trees. The crowd thronged up pop-eyed
+and quivering with excitement. Then there was a long wait until the wind
+had died down a bit, which it did after a while. The eventful moment had
+arrived, and Mr. Stephenson, of our party, climbed into the basket. He
+is only six feet five inches in height and weighs only two hundred and
+thirty pounds. He had on a pair of heavy hunting boots, for we were
+leaving for the hunting grounds immediately after the ascension. One by
+one the restraining bags of sand were taken off, but still the balloon
+sat on the ground without any inclination to do otherwise.
+
+A wave of disappointment spread over the crowd. Suddenly a brilliant
+inspiration struck the gallant aëronaut. He took off one of his heavy
+hunting boots and cast it overboard. The balloon arose a foot or two and
+then sagged back to earth. Then the other boot was cast over and the
+balloon rose several feet, swaying and whipping savagely over the heads
+of the crowd. The wind was now blowing pretty hard, and when the wire
+was run out the balloon started almost horizontally for the nearest
+tree, rising slightly.
+
+[Drawing: _Throwing Out Ballast_]
+
+The wire was stopped at once and the balloon thus suddenly restrained,
+changed its horizontal course to an upward one. At about sixty feet up
+the wire was again paid out and the balloon made a dash for the trees
+again. Once more the balloon was stopped and rose to a height of one
+hundred and fifty feet, where it swayed about with the pleasant face of
+Stephenson looking over the edge of the basket. He had to sit down, as
+there was not room to stand. The ascension seemed a failure with the
+handicap of two hundred and thirty pounds, and so the balloon was reeled
+down to the earth again. It was not a great ascension, but the amateur
+aëronaut had gained the distinction of making the first balloon
+ascension ever made in East Africa. He would have gone higher if his
+shoes had been heavier.
+
+To me fell the next chance, and I knew that my one hundred and forty
+pounds would not seriously handicap the balloon. Once more there was a
+long wait until the wind died down, and all of a sudden the cylinder of
+wire was released and the ground sank hundreds of feet below me. The
+horizon widened and the whole vast plain of the African highlands
+stretched out with an ever-widening horizon. New mountain peaks rose far
+away and native villages with ant-like people moving about appeared in
+unexpected quarters. Away below, the crowd of people looked like little
+insects as they gazed up at the balloon. Grasping the ropes that led
+from the basket to the balloon, I stood and waved at them and could hear
+the shouts come up from a thousand feet below.
+
+I was not frightened. There was no sensation of motion as long as the
+balloon was ascending. Aside from looking at the wonderful scene that
+opened out before me, I believe I thought chiefly about where I should
+land in case the wire broke. The balloon would undoubtedly go many miles
+before descending, and five miles in any direction would lead me into a
+primitive jungle or veldt. A hundred miles would take me into almost
+unexplored districts in some directions, where the natives would greet
+me as some supernatural being. Perhaps I might be greeted as a god
+and--just in the midst of these reflections they began to reel in the
+balloon. The sudden stopping was not pleasant, for then the balloon
+began to sway. Slowly the earth came nearer and the wind howled through
+the rigging and the partly filled bag flapped and thundered. The wire,
+about as thick as a piano wire, looked frail, but at last after a slow
+and tedious descent a safe landing was made amid the wondering natives.
+Cameras clicked and the moving picture machine worked busily as the
+balloon was secured to earth again.
+
+To Mrs. Akeley of our party fell the next chance to go up. As she was
+lifted into the basket the feminine population of Nairobi gazed in
+wonder that a woman should dare venture up in a balloon. The cameras
+clicked some more, somebody shook hands with her, and it began to look
+quite like a leave-taking. Just when all was ready the wind sprang up
+savagely and an ascension seemed inexpedient. There was a long wait and
+still the wind continued in gusts. At last it was determined that we
+might as well settle down for better conditions, so Mrs. Akeley was
+lifted out and we waited impatiently for the wind to die down.
+
+At last it died down, all was hurriedly prepared for the ascension, and
+Mrs. Akeley took her place again in the basket. In an instant the
+balloon shot up a couple of hundred feet and was held there for a
+moment. The wind once more sprang up and the balloon was drawn down amid
+the cheers of the crowd. She had been the first woman to make an
+ascension in British East Africa, if not in all of Africa.
+
+We then mounted our mules and rode out on the open plains. Several hours
+before, our entire camp had moved and we were to join them at a
+prearranged spot out on the Athi Plains. All our preliminary worries
+were over and at last we were actually started. At six o'clock, far
+across the country we saw the gleaming lights of our camp-fires and the
+green tents that were to be our homes for many weeks to come. Enormous
+herds of hartebeest and wildebeest were on each side, and countless
+zebras. That night two of us heard the first bark of the zebra, and we
+thought it must be the bark of distant dogs. It was one of our first
+surprises to learn that zebras bark instead of neigh.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+INTO THE HEART OF THE BIG GAME COUNTRY WITH A RETINUE OF MORE THAN ONE
+HUNDRED NATIVES. A SAFARI AND WHAT IT IS
+
+
+When I first expressed my intention of going to East Africa to shoot big
+game some of my friends remarked, in surprise: "Why, I didn't know that
+you were so bloodthirsty!" They seemed to think that the primary object
+of such an expedition was to slay animals, none of which had done
+anything to me, and that to wish to embark in any such project was an
+evidence of bloodthirstiness. I tried to explain that I had no
+particular grudge against any of the African fauna, and that the thing I
+chiefly desired to do was to get out in the open, far from the picture
+post-card, and enjoy experiences which could not help being wonderful
+and strange and perhaps exciting.
+
+The shooting of animals merely for the sake of killing them is, of
+course, not an elevating sport, but the by-products of big game hunting
+in Africa are among the most delightful and inspiring of all
+experiences. For weeks or months you live a nomadic tent life amid
+surroundings so different from what you are accustomed to that one is
+both mentally and physically rejuvenated. You are among strange and
+savage people, in strange and savage lands, and always threatened by
+strange and savage animals. The life is new and the scenery new. There
+is adventure and novelty in every day of such a life, and it is that
+phase of it that has the most insistent appeal. It is the call of the
+wild to which the pre-Adamite monkey in our nature responds.
+
+Even if one never used his rifle one would still enjoy life on _safari_.
+_Safari_ is an Arabic word meaning expedition as it is understood in
+that country. If you go on any sort of a trip you are on _safari_. It
+need not be a shooting trip.
+
+Of course everybody who has read the magazines of the last year has been
+more or less familiarized with African hunting. He has read of the
+amount of game that the authors have killed and of the narrow escapes
+that they have had.
+
+He also has read about expeditions into districts with strange names,
+but naturally these names have meant nothing to him. I know that I read
+reams of African stuff about big game shooting and about _safari_, yet
+in spite of all that, I remained in the dark as to many details of such
+a life. I wanted to know what kind of money or trade stuff the hunter
+carried; what sort of things he had to eat each day; what he wore, and
+how he got from place to place. Most writers have a way of saying: "We
+equipped our _safari_ in Nairobi and made seven marches to such and such
+a place, where we ran into some excellent eland." All the important
+small details are thus left out, and the reader remains in ignorance of
+what the tent boy does, who skins the game that is killed, and what sort
+of a cook stove they use.
+
+The purpose of this chapter is to tell something about the little things
+that happen on _safari_. First of all, at the risk of repeating what has
+been written so often before, I will say a few words about the personnel
+of a _safari_, such as the one I was with.
+
+There were four white people in our expedition--Mr. and Mrs. Akeley, Mr.
+Stephenson, and myself. Mr. Akeley's chief object was to get a group of
+five elephants for the American Museum of Natural History and
+incidentally secure photographic and moving picture records of animal
+life. Both he and Mrs. Akeley had been in Africa before and knew the
+country as thoroughly perhaps as any who has ever been there. Mr. Akeley
+undoubtedly is the foremost taxidermist of the world, and his work is
+famous wherever African animal life has been studied. Mr. Stephenson
+went for the experience in African shooting, and I for that experience
+and any other sort that might turn up.
+
+To supply an expedition of four white people, we had one head-man, whose
+duty it was to run the _safari_--that is, to get us where we wanted to
+go. The success and pleasure of the _safari_ depends almost wholly upon
+the head-man. If he is weak, the discipline of the camp will disappear
+and all sorts of annoyances will steadily increase. If he is strong,
+everything will run smoothly.
+
+[Drawing: _The Cook--A Toto--The Head-Man_]
+
+Our head-man was a young Somali, named Abdi. For several years he was
+with Mr. McMillan of Juja farm, and he spoke English well and knew the
+requirements of white men. He was strikingly handsome, efficient, and
+ruled the native porters firmly and kindly. Each day we patted ourselves
+on the back because of Abdi.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. It Is Tropical Along the Athi
+River]
+
+[Photograph: Hippos in the Tana River]
+
+[Photograph: Our Camp Down on the Tana]
+
+Second in the list came our four gunbearers, all Somalis, they being
+considered the best gunbearers. The duty of the gunbearer is always to
+be with you when you are hunting, to carry your gun, and to have it in
+your hand the instant it is needed. Then there were four second
+gunbearers, who came along just behind the first gunbearers. The second
+men were, in our case, selected from the native porters, and were
+subject to the orders of the first gunbearer. The first gunbearer
+carries your field-glasses and your light, long-range rifle; the second
+gunbearer carries your camera, your water bottle, and your heavy cordite
+double-barreled rifle. In close quarters, as in a lion fight, the first
+gunbearer crouches at your elbow, hands the big rifle to you; you fire,
+and he immediately takes the rifle and places in your hands the other
+rifle, ready for firing. By the time you have fired this one the first
+is again ready, and in this way you always have a loaded rifle ready for
+use. There frequently is no time for turning around, and so the first
+gunbearer is at your elbow with the barrel of one rifle pressed against
+your right leg that you may know that he is there. Sometimes they run
+away, but the Somali gunbearers are the most fearless and trustworthy,
+and seldom desert in time of need. The gunbearer has instructions never
+to fire unless his master is disarmed and down before the charge of a
+beast. When an animal is killed the gunbearers skin it and care for the
+trophy. Usually when on a shooting jaunt of several hours from camp
+several porters go along to carry home the game.
+
+Third in the social scale came the askaris--armed natives in uniforms
+who guard the camp at night. One or more patrol the camp all night long,
+keep up the fires and scare away any marauding lion or hyena that may
+approach the camp. We had four askaris, one of whom was the noisiest man
+I have ever heard. He reminded me of a congressman when congress is not
+in session.
+
+[Drawing: _Gunbearer--Askari--Tent Boy--Porter_]
+
+Then came the cook, who is always quite an important member of the
+community, because much of the pleasure of the _safari_ depends upon
+him. Our cook was one that the Akeleys had on their former trip. His
+name was Abdullah, he had a jovial face and a beaming smile, cooked
+well, and was funny to look at. He wore a slouch hat with a red band
+around it, a khaki suit and heavy shoes. When on the march he carried
+his shoes and when in camp he wore a blue jersey and a polka-dotted
+apron which took the place of trousers. He was good-natured, which
+atoned somewhat for his slowness. The suggestion may be made that he
+might not have been slow, but that our appetites might have been so fast
+that he seemed slow.
+
+The cook usually picks out a likely porter to help him, or a _toto_,
+which means "little boy" in Swahili. There are always a lot of boys who
+go along, unofficially, just for the fun and the food of the trip. They
+are not hired, but go as stowaways, and for the first few days out
+remain much in the background. Gradually they appear more and more until
+all chance of their being sent back has disappeared, and then they
+become established members of the party. They carry small loads and help
+brighten up the camp. Then there are the tent boys, personal servants of
+the white people. Each white person has his tent boy, who takes care of
+his tent, his bedding, his bath, his clothes, and all his personal
+effects. A good tent boy is a great feature on _safari_, for he relieves
+his master of all the little worries of life. The tent boys always wait
+on the table and do the family washing. They also see that the drinking
+water is boiled and filtered and that the water bottles are filled each
+evening.
+
+Last of all come the porters, of whom we had eighty. There were
+Swahilis, Wakambas, Kikuyus, Masai, Minyamwezis, Lumbwas, Bagandas,
+Kavirondos, and doubtless members of various other tribes. It was their
+duty to carry the camp from place to place, each porter carrying sixty
+pounds on his head. When they arrive at the spot selected for camp they
+put up the tents, get in firewood, and carry in what game may later be
+shot by the white men.
+
+Then, lowest in the social scale, are the saises, or grooms. There is
+one for each mule or horse, of which we had four. The sais is always at
+hand to hold the mount and is supposed to take care of it after hours.
+
+The foregoing members of our personally conducted party, therefore,
+included:
+
+   Head-man      1
+   Gunbearers    4
+   Askaris       4
+   Cook          1
+   Tent Boys     4
+   Porters      80
+   Saises        4
+   "Totos"      20
+
+The head-man and the four gunbearers get seventy-five rupees a month,
+the askaris fifteen rupees, the cook forty rupees, the tent boys twenty
+and twenty-five rupees, depending upon experience, the porters ten
+rupees, and the saises twelve rupees. The _totos_ get nothing except
+food and lodging, as well as experience, which may be valuable when they
+grow up to be porters at ten rupees a month. A rupee is about
+thirty-three cents American. We were also required by law to provide a
+water bottle, blanket, and sweater for each porter, as well as uniforms
+and water bottles, shoes and blankets for all the other members of the
+party. We also supplied twenty tents for them.
+
+For the first day or two on _safari_ there may be little hitches and
+delays, but after a short time the work is reduced to a beautiful
+system, and camp is broken or pitched in a remarkably short time. The
+porters get into the habit of carrying a certain load and so there is
+usually little confusion in distributing the packs.
+
+[Photograph: At the Edge of the Athi River]
+
+[Photograph: The Totos Are Not Fastidious]
+
+Life and activity begin early in camp. You go to bed early and before
+dawn you are awakened by the singing of countless birds of many kinds.
+The air is fresh and cool, and you draw your woolen blankets a little
+closer around you. The tent is closed, but through the little cracks you
+can see that all is still dark. In a few moments a faint grayness steals
+into the air, and off in the half darkness you hear the Somali
+gunbearers chanting their morning prayers--soft, musical, and soothing.
+Then there are more voices murmuring in the air and the camp slowly
+awakens to life. Some one is heard chopping wood, and by that time day
+breaks with a crash. All is life, and the birds are singing as though
+mad with the joy of life and sunshine. A little later a shadowy figure
+appears by your cot and says, "_Chai, bwana_" which means, "Tea,
+master."
+
+You turn over and slowly sip the hot tea, while outside in the clear
+morning air the sound of voices grows and grows until you know that
+eighty or a hundred men are busy getting their breakfasts. The crackling
+of many fires greets your ears and the pungent smell of wood fires
+salutes your nostrils. You look at your watch and it is perhaps five or
+half past. The air is still cold and you hasten to slip out of your cot.
+It is never considered wise to bathe in the morning here.
+
+Your shoes or boots are by your bed, all oiled and cleaned, and your
+puttees are neatly rolled, ready to be wound around you from the tops of
+the shoes to the knee. Your clean flannels (one always wears heavy
+flannel underclothes and heavy woolen socks in this climate) are laid
+out and your clothes for the day's march are ready for you. You get into
+your clothes and boots, go out of your tent, and find there a basin of
+hot water and your toilet equipment. The basin is supported on a
+three-pronged stick thrust into the ground and makes a thoroughly
+satisfactory washstand. The fire in front of the cook's tent is burning
+merrily and he and his assistants are busily at work on the morning
+breakfast. Twenty other camp-fires are burning around the twenty small
+white tents that the porters and others occupy, and scores of half-clad
+natives are cooking their breakfasts. The ration that we were required
+to give them was a pound and a half of ground-corn a day for each man,
+but in good hunting country we got them a good deal of meat to eat. They
+are very fond of hartebeest, zebra, rhino, and especially hippo. In
+fact, they are eager to eat any kind of meat, so that anything we killed
+was certain to be of practical use as food for the porters. This fact
+greatly relieves the conscience of the man who shoots an animal for its
+fine horns. Six porters sleep in each of the little shelter tents which
+we were required to supply them, and this number sleeping so closely
+packed served to keep them warm through the cold African highland
+nights.
+
+By six o'clock our folding table in the mess tent is laid with white
+linen and white enamel dishes for breakfast. So we take our places. If
+we are in a fruit country we have some oranges and bananas or papayas, a
+sort of pawpaw that is most delicious; it is a cross between a
+cantaloupe and a mango. Then we have oatmeal with evaporated cream and
+sugar; then we have choice cuts from some animal that was killed the day
+before--usually the liver or the tenderloin. Then we have eggs and
+finish up on jam or marmalade and honey. We have coffee for breakfast
+and tea for the other meals.
+
+While we are eating the tent boys have packed our tin trunks, our
+folding tent table, our cots and our pillows, cork mattresses and
+blankets. The gunbearer gets our two favorite rifles and cameras,
+field-glasses and water bottles. Then down comes the double-roofed green
+tents, all is wrapped into closely-packed bags, and before we are
+through with breakfast all the tented village has disappeared and only
+the mess tent and the two little outlying canvas shelters remain. It is
+a scene of great activity. Porters are busily making up their packs and
+the head-man with the askaris are busy directing them. In a half-hour
+all that remains is a scattered assortment of bundles, all neatly bound
+up in stout cords.
+
+One man may carry a tent-bag and poles, another a tin uniform case with
+a shot-gun strapped on top; another may have a bedding roll and a chair
+or table, and so on until the whole outfit is reduced to eighty compact
+bundles which include the food for the porters, the ant-proof food boxes
+with our own food, and the horns and skins of our trophies. The work of
+breaking camp is reduced to a science.
+
+Our gunbearers are waiting and the saises with the mules are in
+readiness. So we start off, usually walking the first hour or two, with
+gunbearers and saises and mules trailing along behind. Soon afterward we
+look back to see the long procession of porters following along in
+single file. Our tent boys carry our third rifle, and behind them all
+comes the head-man, ready to spur on any lagging porters.
+
+[Drawing: _Our Safari on the March_]
+
+The early morning hours are bright and cool, but along about nine
+o'clock the equatorial sun begins to beat down upon our heavy sun
+helmets and our red-lined and padded spine protectors. But it is seldom
+hot for long. A cloud passes across the sun and instantly everything is
+cooled. A wave of wind sweeps across the hill and cools the moist brow
+like a camphor compress. An instant later the sun is out again and the
+land lies swimming in the shimmer of heat waves. Distant hills swim on
+miragic lakes, and if we are in plains country the mirages appear upon
+all sides.
+
+We rarely shot while on a march from camp to camp. We walked or rode
+along, watching the swarms of game that slowly moved away as we
+approached. The scenery was beautiful. Sometimes we wound along on game
+trails or native trails through vast park-like stretches of rolling
+hills; at other times we climbed across low hills studded with thorn
+scrub, while off in the distance rose the blue hills and mountains. To
+the northward, always with us, was the great Mount Kenia, eighteen
+thousand feet high and nearly always veiled with masses of clouds. On
+her slopes are great droves of elephants, and we could pick out the spot
+where three years before Mrs. Akeley had killed her elephant with the
+record pair of tusks.
+
+Our marches were seldom long. At noon or even earlier we arrived at our
+new camping place, ten or twelve miles from our starting of the morning.
+Frequently we loitered along so that the porters might get there first
+and the camp be fully established when we arrived. At other times we
+arrived early and picked out a spot, where ticks and malaria were not
+likely to be bothersome.
+
+We usually camped near a river. Our first camp was on the Athi Plains,
+near Nairobi; our second at Nairobi Falls, where the river plunges down
+a sixty-foot drop in a spot of great beauty. Our third camp was on the
+Induruga River, in a beautiful but malarious spot; our fifth was on the
+Thika Thika River, where it was so cold in the morning that the vapor of
+our breathing was visible; and our sixth on a wind-blown hill where a
+whirlwind blew down our mess tent and scattered the cook's fire until
+the whole grass veldt was in furious flames. It took a hundred men an
+hour to put out the flames.
+
+Our next camp was at Fort Hall, where a poisonous snake came into my
+tent while I was working. It crawled under my chair and was by my feet
+when I saw it. It was chased out and killed in the grass near my tent,
+and a porter cut out the fangs to show me. For a day or two I looked
+before putting on my shoes, but after that I ceased to think of it.
+
+After that time our camps were along the Tana River, in a beautiful
+country thronged with game, but, unhappily, a district into which
+comparatively few hunters come on account of the fever that is said to
+prevail there. We were obliged to leave our mules at Fort Hall because
+it was considered certain death to them if we took them into this fly
+belt.
+
+When the porters arrive at a camping place a good spot is picked out for
+our four tents and mess tent, the cook tent is located, and in a short
+time the camp is ready. In my tent the cot is spread, with blankets
+airing; the mosquito net is up, the table is ready, with toilet
+articles, books and cigars laid out. The three tin uniform cases are in
+their places, my cameras are in their places, as are also the guns and
+lanterns. A floor cloth covers the ground and a long easy chair is ready
+for occupancy. Towels and water are ready, and pajamas and cholera belt
+are on the pillow of the cot. Everything is done that should be done,
+and I am immediately in a well established house with all my favorite
+articles in their accustomed places.
+
+[Drawing: _The Safari in Camp_]
+
+A luncheon, with fruit, meat, curry and a pastry is ready by the time we
+are, and then we smoke or sleep through the broiling midday hours. Mr.
+Stephenson--or "Fred," as he is with us--and I go out on a scouting
+expedition and look for good specimens to add to our collection of horns
+or to get food for the porters. Sometimes the whole party went out,
+either photographing charging rhinos or shooting, but this part of the
+daily program was usually too varied to generalize as part of the daily
+doings. Several porters went with each of us to bring in the game, which
+there is rarely any uncertainty of securing.
+
+In the evening we return and find our baths of hot water ready. We take
+off our heavy hunting boots and slip into the soft mosquito boots. After
+which dinner is ready and our menu is strangely varied. Sometimes we
+have kongoni steaks, at other times we have the heart of waterbuck or
+the liver of bushbuck or impalla. Twice we had rhino tongue and once
+rhino tail soup. We eat, and at six o'clock the darkness of night
+suddenly spreads over the land. We talk over our several adventures of
+the afternoon, some of which may be quite thrilling, and then, with camp
+chairs drawn around the great camp-fire, and with the sentinel askari
+pacing back and forth, we spend a drowsy hour in talking. Gradually the
+sounds of night come on. Off there a hyena is howling or a zebra is
+barking, and we know that through all those shadowy masses of trees the
+beasts of prey are creeping forth for their night's hunting. The
+porters' tents are ranged in a wide semicircle, and their camp-fires
+show little groups of men squatting about them. Somewhere one is playing
+a tin flute, another is playing a French harp, and some are singing. It
+is a picture never to be forgotten, and rich with a charm that will
+surely always send forth its call to the restless soul of the man who
+goes back to the city.
+
+Sometimes the evening program is different. When one of us brings in
+some exceptional trophy there is a great celebration, with singing and
+native dances, and cheers for the Bwana who did the heroic deed. The
+first lion in a camp is a signal for great rejoicing and
+celebrating--however, that is another story--the story of my first lion.
+
+At nine o'clock the tents are closed and all the camp is quiet in sleep.
+Outside in the darkness the askari paces to and fro, and the thick
+masses of foliage stand out in inky blackness against the brilliant
+tropic night. We are far from civilization, but one has as great a
+feeling of security as though he were surrounded by chimneys and
+electric lights. And no sleep is sweeter than that which has come after
+a day's marching over sun-swept hills or through the tangled reed beds
+where every sense must always be on the alert for hidden dangers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+A LION DRIVE. WITH A RHINO IN RANGE SOME ONE SHOUTS "SIMBA" AND I GET MY
+FIRST GLIMPSE OF A WILD LION. THREE SHOTS AND OUT
+
+
+Like every one who goes to Africa with a gun and a return ticket, I had
+two absorbing ambitions. One was to kill a lion and the other to live to
+tell about it. In my estimation all the other animals compared to a lion
+as latitude eighty-seven and a half compares to the north pole. I wanted
+to climb out of the Tartarin of Tarascon class of near lion hunters into
+the ranks of those who are entitled to remark, "Once, when I was in
+Africa shooting lions," etc. A dead lion is bogey in the big game
+sport--the score that every hunter dreams of achieving--and I was
+extremely eager to make the dream a reality.
+
+When speaking with English sportsmen in London my first question was,
+"Did you get any lions?" If they had, they at once rose in my
+estimation; if not, no matter how many elephants or rhinos or buffaloes
+they may have shot, they still remained in the amateur class.
+
+On the steamer going down to Mombasa the hunting talk was four-fifths
+lion and one-fifth about other game. The cripple who had been badly
+mauled by a lion was a person of much distinction, even more so than the
+ivory hunter who had killed three hundred elephants.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mr. Stephenson's Lion]
+
+[Photograph: A Post Mortem Inquiry]
+
+On the railway to Nairobi every eye was on the lookout for lions and
+every one gazed with intense interest at the station of Tsavo and
+remembered the famous pair of man-eaters that had terrorized that place
+some years before.
+
+In Nairobi the men who had killed lions, and those who had been mauled
+by them (and there are many of the latter), were objects of vast
+concern, and the little cemetery with its many headstones marked "Killed
+by lion" added still greater fire to my interest.
+
+[Drawing: _The Jolly Little Cemetery_]
+
+Consequently, when we marched out of Nairobi on the evening of September
+twenty-third, with tents and guns and a hundred and twenty men, the
+dominating thought was of lions. If ever any one had greater hope and
+less expectation of killing a lion I was the one.
+
+We had planned a short trip of from three to five weeks northeast of
+Nairobi in what is called the Tana River country. While there are some
+lions in that section, as there are in most parts of British East
+Africa, it is not considered a good lion country. Buffaloes, rhinos,
+hippos, giraffes, and many varieties of smaller game are abundant,
+largely because the Tana River is in a bad fever belt and hunting
+parties generally prefer to go elsewhere. This preliminary trip was
+intended to perfect our shooting, so that later, when in real lion
+country, we might be better equipped to take on the king of beasts with
+some promise of hitting him.
+
+[Drawing: _Peering for Lions_]
+
+The tree-tops and corrugated iron roofs of Nairobi had hardly dropped
+behind a long, sun-soaked hump of the Athi Plains when I began to peel
+my eyes inquiringly for lions. All the lion stories that I had heard for
+the preceding few months paraded back and forth in my memory, and if
+ever a horizon was thoroughly scanned for lion, that horizon just out of
+Nairobi was the one. Hartebeests in droves loped awkwardly away from the
+trail and then turned and looked with wondering interest at us. Zebras,
+too fat to run, trotted off, and also turned to observe the invaders.
+Gazelles did the same, and away off in the distance a few wildebeests
+went galloping slowly to a safe distance. They were probably safe at any
+distance had they only known it, for up to the hour when I cantered
+forth from Nairobi in quest of lions and rhinos I had not shot at
+anything for three years, nor hit anything for ten.
+
+Night came on--the black, sudden night of Africa--and we went into camp
+four miles from Nairobi without ever having heard the welcome roar of a
+lion. It was a distinct disappointment. I remembered the story about the
+lions that stampeded the zebras through the peaceful gardens of Nairobi
+only a few nights before--also the report that some man-eaters had been
+recently partaking of nourishment along the very road upon which we were
+now camping. I also remembered hearing that lions had been seen prowling
+around the edge of the town and that the Athi Plains are a time-honored
+habitat of the lion family. On the other hand, I thought of Mr.
+Roosevelt, who had recently been reducing the supply. I also remembered
+how many hunters had spent years in Africa without ever seeing a lion,
+and how Doctor Rainsford had made two different hunting trips to Africa,
+always looking for lions, but without success.
+
+During our first three days of marching, we looked industriously for
+lions. On broad, grassy plain, in low scrub, on the slopes of low
+hills--everywhere we looked for them. If a flock of vultures circled
+above a distant spot we went over at once in the hope of surprising a
+lion at his kill. Every reed bed was promptly investigated, every dry
+nullah was explored. McMillan's farm, which is a farm only in name, was
+scoured without ever a sign or a hint that a lion lurked thereabouts.
+Mr. McMillan has four lions in a cage, but they snarled so savagely that
+we hastened away to look for lions elsewhere. The second day we crossed
+the Nairobi River, the third day we crossed the Induruga River, and the
+fourth day we camped down on the Athi River. Here we struck a clue. Two
+English settlers came over and told us that lions had been heard the
+night before near their ranch house, on the slopes of Donyo Sabuk, a
+high solitary round top mountain rising from the Athi Plains, and we
+determined to organize our first lion hunt. It was here that Mr. Lucas
+was killed by a lion a short time before.
+
+A lion hunt, or a lion drive, is quite a ceremony. You take thirty or
+forty natives, go to the place where the lion was heard, and then beat
+every bit of cover in the hope of scaring out the beasts. Lions are fond
+of lying up during the day in dry reed beds, and when you go out looking
+for them, you are most likely to find them in such places.
+
+[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson's Splendid Buffalo]
+
+[Photograph: "Lion Camp"]
+
+[Photograph: The Lion and Lioness in Camp]
+
+We started, three of us, with forty porters, at about daybreak. At seven
+o'clock we had climbed up the side of the mountain to the spot where the
+lions were supposed to be lurking--a long, reed-filled cleft in the side
+of the slope. The porters were sent up to one end of the reed bed,
+twenty on each side, while we went below to where the lion would
+probably be driven out by their shouting and noise. The porters
+bombarded the reeds with stones while we waited with rifles ready for
+the angry creature to dash out in our vicinity. It was an interesting
+wait, with plenty of food for thought. I wondered why the Englishmen had
+not come out to get the lions themselves, and then remembered that one
+of them had been mauled by a lion and had henceforth remained neutral in
+all lion fights. I wondered many other things which I have now
+forgotten. I was quite busy wondering for some time as I waited. In the
+meantime the lions failed to appear.
+
+Bushbuck, waterbuck, and lots of other herbivora appeared, but no
+carnivora. We raked the reed bed fore and aft, and combed the long grass
+in every direction. A young rhino was startled in his morning nap, ran
+around excitedly for a while, and then trotted off. Birds of many
+varieties fluttered up and wondered what the racket was about. At ten
+o'clock we decided that the lions had failed to do their part of the
+program, and that no further developments were to be expected. So we
+marched back homeward, got mixed up with another rhino, and finally
+gained camp, seven miles away, just as our hunger had reached an
+advanced stage.
+
+The next day we marched to the Thika Thika River, then to Punda Milia,
+and then to Fort Hall. Some one claimed to have heard a lion out from
+Fort Hall early in the morning, but I more than half suspect it was one
+of our porters who reverberates when he sleeps. From Fort Hall we
+crossed the Tana and made three marches down the river. Rhinos were
+everywhere jumping out from behind bushes when least expected and in
+many ways behaving in a most diverting way. For a time we forgot lions
+while dodging rhinos. There were dozens of them in the thick, low scrub,
+with now and then a bunch of eland, or a herd of waterbuck, or a few
+hundred of the ubiquitous kongoni.
+
+We camped in a beautiful spot down on the Tana. The country looked like
+a park, with graceful trees scattered about on the rolling lawn-like
+hills. On all sides was game in great profusion. Hippos played about in
+the river, baboons scampered about on the edge of the water, monkeys
+chattered in the trees, and it seemed as though nearly all of the eight
+hundred varieties of East African birds gave us a morning serenade. A
+five-minutes' walk from camp would show you a rhino, while from the top
+of any knoll one could look across a vast sweep of hills upon which
+almost countless numbers of zebras, kongoni, and other animals might be
+seen.
+
+But never a lion. It certainly looked discouraging.
+
+As a form of pleasant excitement, we began to photograph rhinos, Mr.
+Akeley took out his moving-picture machine, advanced it cautiously to
+within a few yards of the unsuspecting rhino, and then we tried to
+provoke a charge. We took a dozen or more rhinos in this way, often
+approaching to within a few yards, and if there is any more exciting
+diversion I don't know what it is. I've looped the loop and there is no
+comparison. It is more like being ambushed by Filipino insurgents--that
+is, it's the same kind of excitement, with more danger.
+
+One day it was necessary to shoot a big bull rhino. He staggered and
+fell, but at once got up and trotted over a hill. Having wounded him, it
+was then necessary for me to follow him, which I did for three blazing
+hours. From nine o'clock till twelve I followed, with the sun beating
+down on the dry, grass-covered hills as though it meant to burn up
+everything beneath it. If any one had asked me, "Is it hot enough for
+you?" I should have answered "Yes" without a moment's hesitation. The
+horizon shimmered in waves of heat. From the top of one hill I could see
+my rhino half a mile away on the slope of another. When I reached the
+slope he was a mile farther on. I began to think he was a mirage. For a
+wounded animal, with two five-hundred-grain shells in his shoulder, he
+was the most astonishing example of vitality I have ever seen. He would
+have been safe against a Gatling gun. There were more low trees a mile
+farther on, and I plodded doggedly on in the hope of getting a little
+relief from the sun. As I drew near I noticed a rhino standing under the
+trees, but he was not the wounded one. I decided that the shade was
+insufficient for both of us and moved swiftly on. Across the valley on
+the slope of another blistered hill stood the one I was looking for. He
+didn't seem to be in the chastened mood of one who is about to die. He
+seemed vexed about something, probably the two cordite shells he was
+carrying. I at last came up within a hundred yards of him. He had got my
+wind and was facing me with tail nervously erect. The tail of a rhino is
+an infallible barometer of his state of mind. With his short sight, I
+knew that he could not see me at that distance, but I knew that he had
+detected the direction in which the danger lay. By slowly moving ahead,
+the distance was cut to about seventy yards, which was not too far away
+in an open country with a wounded rhino in the foreground. I resolved to
+shoot before he charged or before he ran away, and so I prepared to end
+the long chase with an unerring shot.
+
+Suddenly a sound struck my ear that acted upon me like an electric
+shock:
+
+"_Simba!_"
+
+It was the one word that I had been hoping to hear ever since leaving
+Nairobi, for the word means "lion." My Somali gunbearer was eagerly
+pointing toward a lone tree that stood a hundred yards off to the left.
+A huge, hulking animal was slowly moving away from it. It was my first
+glimpse of a wild lion. He was half concealed in the tall, dry grass and
+in a few seconds had entirely disappeared from view. We rushed after
+him. The rhino was completely forgotten and was left to charge or run
+away as he saw fit. When we reached the spot where the lion was last
+seen there was no trace of him. He apparently was not "as brave as a
+lion." We followed the course that he presumably took and presently
+reached the crest of a ridge. Then the second gunbearer, a keen-eyed
+Kikuyu, discovered the lion three hundred yards off to the right. After
+reaching the top of the hill the animal had swung directly off at right
+angles with the idea of reaching cover in a dry creek bed some distance
+away. I started to shoot at three hundred yards, but before I could take
+a careful aim the lion had disappeared in the grass. For an hour we
+thrashed the high reeds in the dry creek bed with never a sign of the
+king of beasts. He had apparently abdicated. He had vanished so
+completely that I thought he had escaped toward some low hills a mile
+farther on. The disappointment of seeing a lion and not getting it, or
+at least shooting at it, was keen to a degree that actually hurt.
+
+[Drawing: _Game Was Plenty for a Minute or Two_]
+
+There was nothing left but to resume our chase after the wounded rhino.
+It was like going back to work after a pleasant two weeks' vacation. We
+presently found him on a far distant hill, and after an hour's tramp in
+the sun we came up to him in the middle of the rolling prairie. There
+was not a tree for a mile, nor a single avenue of escape in case he
+charged. Horticulture had never interested me especially, but just at
+this moment I think a tree, even a thorn tree, would have been a
+pleasant subject for intimate study. However, to make a long story
+longer, I shot him at a hundred yards and felt certain that both shells
+struck. Yet he wheeled around and, stumbling occasionally, was off like
+a railway train. Again we followed, two miles of desperate tramping in
+that merciless sun, up hills and down hills, until finally we entirely
+lost all trace of him. It was now two o'clock. I had eaten nothing since
+five o'clock in the morning, my water bottle was so nearly empty that I
+dared take only a swallow at a time, my knees were sore from climbing
+hills and wading through the tall, dry prairie grass, and I decided to
+give up this endless pursuit of a rhino who wouldn't die after being hit
+with four cordite shells.
+
+The dry creek bed lay in the course of our homeward march, and we
+resolved to take a final look at it. There seemed no likelihood that the
+lion was there, and I walked into the place with the supreme courage of
+one who doesn't expect to find anything hostile. My head gunbearer and I
+had crossed and were walking down in the grass at one side. My second
+gunbearer was on the opposite side, and the stillness of death hung over
+the burning plain.
+
+There was not a sign of life in any direction. The second gunbearer was
+instructed to set fire to the grass in the hope of awakening some
+protest from the lion in case he was still in the vicinity. There was a
+dry crackling of flames, and before we could count ten a deep growl came
+from somewhere in front of me, evidently on one of the edges of the
+creek bed. The second gunbearer was the first to locate him, and he
+signaled for me to come over on his side of the creek. In a moment I had
+dashed down and had climbed out on the other side and was eagerly gazing
+at a clump of bushes indicated by the Kikuyu. At first I could
+distinguish nothing, but soon I saw the tawny flanks and the lashing
+tail of the lion. His head was hidden by the bushes. At that time we
+were about a hundred yards from him and it was necessary to circle off
+to a point where the rest of his body could be seen. A little side
+ravine intervened, and I had to cross it and come directly down through
+the clump of bushes. The grass was high, and it was not until I had come
+within forty yards of the lion that I could get a clear view of him. He
+was glaring at me, with tail waving angrily, and his mouth was opened in
+a savage snarl. I could see that he didn't like me.
+
+I raised the little .256 Mannlicher, aimed carefully at his open mouth
+and fired. The lion turned a back somersault and a great thrill of
+exultation suffused me. Already I saw the handsomely mounted lion-skin
+rug ornamenting my den at home. We approached cautiously, always
+remembering that the real danger of lion hunting comes after the lion
+has been shot. We threw stones in the grass where he had lain, but no
+answering growl was heard. I thought he was dead, but when we finally
+reached the spot where he had been there was no sign of him. He had
+vanished again. I searched the ravine and then crossed to the high grass
+on the other side. Then we saw him for an instant, half-concealed, just
+in front of us. His head was hanging, and he looked as though he had
+been hard hit. Again he disappeared and we searched high and low for
+him. For several hundred feet we beat the grass without result.
+
+Then the grass was again fired and again the hoarse growl came in angry
+protest. Walking slowly, with guns ready for instant use, we advanced
+until we could see him under a tree seventy yards ahead on my side of
+the ravine. He was growling angrily. This time I used the
+double-barreled cordite rifle and the first shot struck him in the
+forehead without knocking him down. He sprang up and the second shot
+stretched him out. He was still alive when I came up to him, and a small
+bullet was fired into the base of his brain to reduce the danger of a
+final charge.
+
+Old hunters always caution one about approaching a dying lion, for often
+the beast musters up unexpected vitality, makes a final charge, kills
+somebody, and then dies happy. So we waited a few feet away until the
+last quiver of his sides had passed. One of the boys pulled his tail and
+shook him, but there was no sign of life. He was extinct.
+
+A new danger now threatened. The grass fire that the second gunbearer
+had started was sweeping the prairie, fanned by a strong wind, and there
+seemed to be not only the danger of abandoning the lion, but of being
+forced to flee before the flames. So we fell to work beating out the
+nearest fires, and trusted that a shifting of the wind would send the
+course of the flames in another direction.
+
+It was now four o'clock. We were nine miles from camp and food, and we
+knew that at six o'clock darkness would suddenly descend, leaving us out
+in a rhino-infested country, far from camp. The water was nearly gone
+and the general outlook was far from pleasing.
+
+The gunbearers skinned the lion. My first shot had struck one of his
+back teeth, breaking it squarely off, and then passed through the fleshy
+part of the neck. It was a wound that would startle, but not kill. The
+second shot had hit him between the eyes, but had glanced off the skull,
+merely ripping open the skin on the forehead for five inches. The third
+shell had killed him, except for the convulsive heaving that was finally
+stilled by the small bullet in the base of the brain.
+
+[Drawing: _As I Planned to Look in the Photograph of "My First
+Lion"_]
+
+The skinning was interesting. All the fat in certain parts of the body
+was saved, for East Indians bid high for it and use it as a lubricant
+for rheumatic pains. The two shoulder blades are always saved and are
+considered a valuable trophy. They are little bones three inches long,
+unattached and floating, and have long since ceased to perform any
+function in the working of the body. The broken tooth was found and
+saved, and, of course, a photograph was taken. My gunbearer took the
+picture, and when it was developed there was only a part of the lion and
+part of the lion slayer visible. It was a good picture of the tree,
+however.
+
+[Drawing: _As I Looked--From Photograph by Gunbearer_]
+
+At four-thirty the homeward march was begun. At five-thirty two rhinos
+blocked the path and one of them had to be shot. At six we were still
+several miles from camp, with the country wrapped in darkness. The water
+was gone and only one shell remained for the big gun. Somewhere ahead
+were miles of thorn scrub in which there might be rhinos or buffaloes.
+Two days before I had killed two large buffaloes in the district through
+which we must pass, and there was every likelihood of others still being
+there. At seven we were hopelessly lost in a wide stretch of hippo
+grass, and I had to fire a shot in the hope of getting an answering shot
+from camp. In a couple of moments we heard the distant shot, and then
+pressed on toward camp. The lion had been carried on ahead while we
+stopped with the rhino, and so the news reached the camp before us. A
+long line of porters came out to greet us and a great reception
+committee was waiting at the camp. It was the first lion of the
+expedition, and as such was the signal for great celebration. That night
+there were native dances and songs around the big central camp-fire and
+a wonderful display of pagan hilarity.
+
+It had been a hard day. Fourteen hours without food, several hours
+without water, and miles of hard tramping through thorn scrub in the
+darkness and of long, broiling stretches in the blazing sunlight. It
+seemed a good price to pay even for a lion, but that night, as I finally
+stretched out on my cot, I was conscious from time to time of a glow of
+pleasure that swept over me. It seemed that of all human gratifications
+there was none equal to that experienced by the man who has killed his
+first lion.
+
+My second lion experience came three days later. With a couple of tents
+and about forty porters our party of four had marched across to a point
+a couple of miles from where I had killed the lion. We hoped to put in a
+day or two looking for lions, some of which had been reported in that
+district. The porters went on ahead with the camp equipment, while we
+came along more slowly. Mr. Akeley had taken some close-range
+photographs of rhinos, and we were just on the point of starting direct
+for the new camp when we ran across two enormous rhinos standing in the
+open plain. One was extremely large, with an excellent pair of horns,
+and it was arranged that I should try to secure this one as a trophy,
+while Mr. Akeley secured a photograph of the event. At thirty-five yards
+I shot the larger one of the two, and it dropped in its tracks. The
+other started to charge, but was finally driven away by shouting and by
+shots fired in the air. The photograph was excellent and quite dramatic.
+
+For an hour the gunbearers worked on the dead rhino and finally secured
+the head and feet and certain desirable parts of the skin. At noon we
+resumed our march for camp, two or three miles away. We had hardly gone
+half the distance when one of the tent boys was seen far ahead, riding
+the one mule that we had dared to bring down the Tana River. It was
+evident that something important had occurred and we hurried on to meet
+him.
+
+"_Simba!_" he shouted, as soon as he could be heard. In a moment we had
+the details. One of the saises had seen two lions, a large male and
+female, quite near the camp. Porters were instructed to watch the beasts
+until we should arrive, and now were supposed to be in touch with them.
+We omitted luncheon and struck off at once in the direction indicated by
+the tent boy. We soon came up to the porters and an instant later saw
+the lions. It was a beautiful sight. The two animals were majestically
+walking up the rocky slope of a low, fire-scorched hill a few hundred
+yards away. The male was a splendid beast, with all the splendid dignity
+of one who fears nothing in the whole wide world. From time to time the
+two lions stopped and looked back at us, but with no sign of fear.
+Several times they lay down, but soon would resume their stately course
+up among the rocks.
+
+I shall never forget the picture that lay before me. It was as though
+some famous lion painting of Gérôme or Landseer had come to life,
+sometimes the animals being outlined clearly against the blue sky and at
+other times standing, with splendid heads erect, upon the rocks of the
+low ridge that rose ahead of us.
+
+We stalked them easily. Several porters were left where the lions could
+constantly see them, while we three, Akeley, Stephenson and I, with our
+six gunbearers, worked around the base of the hill until we were able to
+climb up on the crest of it, being thus constantly screened from view of
+the lions. At the crest was an abrupt outcropping of blackened rocks,
+where we stopped to locate the two animals. They were nowhere to be
+seen. Twenty-five yards farther along on the crest was another little
+ledge of rocks, and we worked our way silently along to it in the
+expectation that the lions might have advanced that far. But even then
+our search disclosed nothing. For some time we waited, scouring the
+neighborhood with our glasses, and had almost reached the conclusion
+that the lions had made off down the other side of the hill and had
+reached the cover of a shallow ravine some distance away. Then we saw
+them--exactly where we had last seen them before we had started our
+stalk. They were still together and showed no sign of alarm nor
+knowledge of our presence so near them. At this time they were one
+hundred and ten yards away. They lay down again behind the rocks and we
+waited twenty minutes for them to show themselves. Off to our right and
+in the valley another large male lion appeared and moved slowly away
+among the low scrub trees.
+
+Finally we decided to rouse the two lions by shouting, but before this
+decision could be carried out the male rose above the rocks and stood
+plainly in view. It had previously been arranged that Mr. Stephenson
+should try for the male, while I should try for the female. In an
+instant he fired with his big rifle, the lion whirled around and then
+started running down the hill to the right.
+
+Then the lioness appeared and I wounded her with my first shot. She ran
+out in the open toward us, but evidently without knowing from where the
+firing came. A second shot was better placed and I saw her collapse in
+her tracks. Leaving the lioness, I went down to where Stephenson had
+followed the lion. Several shots had been fired, but the lion was still
+running, although badly wounded. Just as it reached a small tree down on
+the slope a shot was put into a vital spot, and the lion went wildly
+over on his side. Even then he managed to drag himself under the small
+bushes surrounding the tree, where a moment later Mr. Stephenson killed
+him with a shot from his .318 Mauser.
+
+[Drawing: _"A Very Interesting Experience," Said I Coolly, a Couple
+of Days Later_]
+
+We measured and photographed the lion, and then I took my camera to get
+a picture of the dead lioness up on the ridge. She was sitting up
+snarling, and I was the most surprised person in the world. I shot at
+her and she ran fifty yards to a small tree, where she came to a stop.
+Two more shots from my big gun finished her, and the photograph was
+finally secured.
+
+Leaving the porters to watch the two lions, we followed the third lion
+that had been seen in the valley. He had not gone far and we soon found
+him, but too far away to get a shot. For an hour we followed him, but he
+finally disappeared and could not be located again.
+
+It was sundown when our porters reached camp with the two lions, and it
+was then that we ate our long-deferred luncheon.
+
+A week later, while marching from the Tana River to the Zeka River, Mr.
+and Mrs. Akeley and I came across a large lion, accompanied by a
+lioness. They were first seen moving away across a low sloping ridge of
+the plains within a couple of miles of where we had killed the lion and
+lioness a week before. We followed them and came up with them after a
+brisk walk of ten minutes. Both were hiding in the grass near the crest
+of the slope, and we could see their ears and eyes above the long grass.
+We crouched down a hundred yards away and the lion rose to see where we
+had gone. Mrs. Akeley fired and missed, but her second shot pierced his
+brain and he fell like a log. We expected a charge from the lioness and
+waited until she should declare herself. But she did not appear and her
+whereabouts remained an anxious mystery until she was finally seen
+several hundred yards away making her way slowly up a distant hill.
+Half-way up she sat down and watched us as we made our way cautiously in
+the grass to where her mate lay as he fell, stone dead. We afterward
+followed her, but she escaped from view and could not be located. This
+lion was the largest we had seen and measured nine feet from tip to tip.
+
+This was our last experience with lions in the Trans-Tana country. After
+that we went up in the elephant country on Mount Kenia, but that is a
+story all in itself.
+
+Lion hunting is the best kind of African hunting in one respect. One
+feels no self-reproach in having killed a lion, for there is always the
+comforting thought that by killing one lion you have saved the lives of
+three hundred other animals. Every lion exacts an annual toll of at
+least that number of zebras, hartebeests, or other forms of antelopes,
+all of which are powerless to defend themselves against the great
+creature that creeps upon them in cover of darkness. So a lion hunter
+may consider himself something of a benefactor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ON THE TANA RIVER, THE HOME OF THE RHINO. THE TIMID ARE FRIGHTENED, THE
+DANGEROUS KILLED, AND OTHERS PHOTOGRAPHED. MOVING PICTURES OF A RHINO
+CHARGE
+
+
+Down on the Tana River the rhinos are more common than in any
+other known section of Africa. In two weeks we saw over one
+hundred--perhaps two hundred--of them--so many, in fact, that one of the
+chief diversions of the day was to count rhinos. One day we counted
+twenty-six, another day nineteen, and by the time we left the district
+rhinos had become such fixtures in the landscape as to cause only casual
+comment. Perhaps there were some repeaters, ones that were counted
+twice, but even allowing for that there were still some left. We saw big
+ones and little ones, old ones and young ones, and middle-aged ones;
+ones with long ears, short horns, double horns, and single horns; black
+ones and red ones--in fact, all the kinds of rhinos that are resident in
+British East Africa. One had an ear gone and another had a crook in his
+tail. If we had stayed another week we might have got out a Tana River
+Rhino Directory, with addresses and tree numbers. We studied them fore
+and aft, from in front of trees and from behind them, from close range
+and long range, over our shoulders, and through our cameras, every way
+whereby a conscientious lover of life and nature can study a prominent
+member of the Mammalia. We called the place Rhino Park because the
+country looks like a beautiful park studded with splendid trees and
+dotted with rhinos.
+
+[Drawing: _A Morning Walk on the Tana River_]
+
+When I went to Africa I was equipped with the following fund of
+knowledge concerning the rhinoceros: First, that he is familiarly called
+"rhino" by the daring hunters who have written about him; second, that
+he is a member of the Perissodactyl family, whose sole representatives
+are the horse, the rhino, and the tapir; third, that he savagely charges
+human beings who write books about their thrilling adventures in Africa,
+and, finally, that he looks like a hang-over from the pterodactyl age.
+The books and magazine stories that have come out since Mr. Roosevelt
+made African hunting the vogue invariably describe the rhino as being
+one of the most dangerous of African animals. A charging rhino, a
+wounded lion, a cape buffalo, and a frenzied elephant are the four
+terrors of the African hunters. All other forms of danger are slight
+compared with these, and I was full to the guards with a vast and
+fearful respect for the rhino. I fancied myself spinning around like a
+pinwheel with the horn of a rhino as a pivot, and the thought had little
+to commend itself to a lover of longevity--such as myself, for instance.
+
+[Photograph: A Comfortable Hammock of Zebra Skin]
+
+[Photograph: Mrs. Akeley and Her Tana River Monkey]
+
+After going to Africa and meeting some of the best members of the rhino
+set I was able to form some conclusions of my own, chief of which is the
+belief that he is dangerous only if he hits you. As long as you can keep
+out of his reach you are in no great danger except from the thorns.
+
+The prevailing estimate of the rhino is that he is an inoffensive
+creature who likes to bask under the shade of a tree and watch the years
+go parading by. His thick skin and fierce armament of horns seem to make
+of him a relic of some long-forgotten age--the last survivor of the time
+when mammoths and dinosauruses roamed the manless waste and time was
+counted in geological terms instead of days and minutes. His eyes are
+dimmed and he sees nothing beyond a few yards away, but his hearing and
+sense of smell are keen, and he sniffs danger from afar in case danger
+happens to be to windward of him. His sensitive nose is always alert for
+foreign and, therefore, suspicious odors, and when he smells the blood
+of an Englishman, or even an American, his tail goes up in anger, he
+sniffs and snorts and races around in a circle while he locates the
+direction where the danger lies--and then, look out. A blind, furious
+rush which only a well-sped bullet can prevent causing the untimely end
+of whatever happens to be in the way. That is the popular estimate of
+the rhino.
+
+[Drawing: _Popular Conception of Rhino_]
+
+Here are some of the conclusions I have formed: If the hunter carefully
+approaches the rhino from the leeward he may often come within a few
+yards of the animal and might easily shoot him in a leisurely way. The
+rhino can see only at close range and can smell only when the wind blows
+the scent to him. Consequently he would be defenseless and at the mercy
+of the hunter if it were not for one thing. Nature, in her wisdom, has
+sent the little rhino bird to act as a sentinel for the great pachyderm.
+These little birds live on the back of the rhino and, as recompense for
+their vigilance, are permitted to partake of such ticks and insects as
+inhabit the hide of their host. Whenever danger, or, in other words,
+whenever a hunter tries to approach their own particular rhino from any
+direction, windward, leeward, or any other way, the ever alert and
+watchful rhino birds sound a tocsin of warning. The rhino pricks up his
+ears and begins to show signs of taking notice. He doesn't know where or
+what the danger may be, but he knows the C.Q.D. code of danger signals
+as delivered to him from the outposts on his back and hastens to get
+busy in an effort to locate the foe. As a general thing the little
+birds, on sight of danger, begin a wild chatter, rising from the back of
+the rhino and flying in an opposite direction from the danger. Then they
+return, light on the rhino's back, and repeat, often several times, the
+operation of flying away from the danger. If the rhino is a wise rhino
+he learns from the birds which is the safe way to go and soon trots
+swiftly off. In a measure the habits of the rhino bird are as
+interesting as those of the rhino itself, and as an example of the weak
+protecting the strong, the Damon and Pythias relationship between bird
+and beast is without parallel in the animal kingdom.
+
+[Drawing: _Before and After the Rhino Birds Give the Alarm_]
+
+The rhino is a peaceful animal. He browses on herbs and shrubs and
+dwells in friendly relationship with the rest of the animal kingdom.
+Perhaps once or twice a day he ambles down to some favorite drinking
+place for a drink, but the rest of the time he grazes along a hillside
+or stands or lies sleepily under a tree. At such times as the latter he
+may be approached quite near without much danger. Each day he also goes
+to a favorite wallowing place, where he rolls in the red dirt and
+emerges from this dirt bath a dull red rhino. In the rhino country
+dozens of these red dirt rolling places may be found, each one trampled
+smooth for an area of fifteen or twenty feet in evidence of the great
+number of times it has been used by one or more rhinos. This dirt bath
+is a defensive measure against the hordes of ticks that infest the
+rhino. It is a subject for wonder that the six or eight tick birds do
+not keep the rhino free of ticks, and it has even been argued by some
+naturalists that the rhino bird does not eat ticks, but merely uses the
+rhino as a convenient resting-place. Also perhaps they enjoy the ride.
+We had planned to get a rhino bird and perform an autopsy on him in
+order to analyze his contents, but did not do so.
+
+[Photograph: The Ford of Tana River]
+
+[Photograph: The Baby Rhino]
+
+After the rhino has taken his dirt wallow, and looks fine in his new red
+coat, he then slowly and painstakingly proceeds to kill time during the
+rest of the day. If danger threatens he becomes exceedingly nervous and
+excited. His anxiety is quite acute. In vain he tries to locate the
+danger, rushing one way for a few yards, then the other way, and finally
+all ways at once. His tail is up and he is snorting like a steam engine.
+When he rushes toward you in this attitude it looks very much as though
+he were charging you with the purpose of trampling you to flinders. As a
+matter of fact, or, rather, opinion, he is merely trying to locate where
+you are in order that he may run the other way. He looks terrifying, but
+in reality is probably badly terrified himself. He would give a good
+deal to know which way to run, and finally becomes so excited and
+nervous that he starts frantically in some direction, hoping for the
+best. If this rush happens to be in your direction you call it a charge
+from an infuriated rhino; if not, you say that he looked nasty and was
+about to charge, but finally ran away in another direction. In most
+rhino charges it is my opinion that the rhino is too rattled to know
+what he is doing, and, instead of charging maliciously, he is merely
+trying to get away as fast as possible. And in such cases the hunter
+blazes away at him, wounds him, and the rhino blindly charges the flash.
+
+[Drawing: _Trying to Provoke a Charge_]
+
+It was our wish to get moving pictures of a rhino charge. Mr. Akeley had
+a machine and our plan of action was simple. We would first locate the
+rhino, usually somnolent under a thorn tree or browsing soberly out in
+the open. We would then get to the leeward of him and slowly advance the
+machine; Mr. Akeley in the middle and Stephenson and I on each side with
+our double-barreled cordite rifles. In case the charge became too
+serious to escape we hoped to be able to turn him or kill the rhino with
+our four bullets. If we were unsuccessful in doing so--well, we had to
+manage the situation by jumping.
+
+Our first experience was most thrilling, chiefly because we expected a
+charge. We thought all rhinos charged, as per the magazine articles, and
+so prepared for busy doings. A rhino cow and half-grown calf were
+discovered on a distant hillside. We stopped in a ravine to adjust the
+picture machine and then crept cautiously up the hill until we were
+within about seventy yards of the unsuspecting pair. Then the rhino
+birds began to flutter and chatter and the two beasts began to sniff
+nervously. Finally they turned toward us, with tails erect and noses
+sniffing savagely. Now for the charge, we thought, for it was considered
+an absolute certainty that a rhino cow accompanied by its calf would
+always attack. We moved forward a few yards, clapped our hands to show
+where we were, and their attitude at once became more threatening. They
+rushed backward and forward a couple of times and faced us again.
+
+By this time we knew that they saw us and our fingers were within the
+trigger guards. It was agreed that, if they charged, they should be
+allowed to come within forty feet before we fired, thus giving the
+picture machine time to get a good record. The situation was intense
+beyond description, and seconds seemed hours. When they started trotting
+toward us we thought the fatal moment had come, but instead of
+continuing the "charge," they swung around and trotted swiftly off in an
+opposite direction. As far as we could see them they trotted swiftly and
+with the lightness of deer, sometimes zigzagging their course, but
+always away from us. The charge had failed in spite of all our efforts
+to provoke it. The whistling and hand-clapping which we had hoped would
+give them our location without doubt had merely served to tell them the
+way not to go.
+
+The moving picture record of a "charging rhino" would have been a
+brilliant success but for one thing--the rhino refused to charge.
+
+During the following ten days we made many similar attempts to get a
+charge and always with nearly the same results. Once or twice we got
+within thirty yards before they finally turned tail after a number of
+feints that looked much like the beginning of a nasty charge. It was
+always intensely thrilling work because there was the likelihood that we
+might get a charge in spite of the fact that a dozen or so previous
+experiences had failed to precipitate one.
+
+In several cases the first rush of the rhino was toward us, but instead
+of continuing, he would soon swing about and make off, four times as
+badly scared as we were. It seemed as though these preliminary rushes
+toward us were efforts to verify the location of danger in order to
+determine the right direction for escape. In all, we made between
+fifteen and twenty different attempts on different rhinos to get a
+charge, but with always practically the same result, yet with always the
+same thrill of excitement and uncertainty.
+
+[Drawing: _The End of the Charge_]
+
+Comprehensive statistics on a rhino's charges are hard to obtain. The
+district commissioner at Embo told me that he had been ordered to reduce
+the number of rhinos in his district in the interest of public safety
+and that he had killed thirty-five in all. Out of this number five
+charged him. That would indicate that one rhino in seven will charge.
+Captain Dickinson, in his book, _Big Game Shooting on the Equator_,
+tells of a rhino that charged him so viciously that he threw down his
+bedding roll and the rhino tossed it and trampled it with great
+emphasis, after which it triumphantly trotted away, elated probably in
+the thought that it had wiped out its enemy. A number of fatalities are
+on record to prove that the rhino is a dangerous beast at times, and so
+I must conclude that the rhino experiences we had were exceedingly lucky
+ones, and perhaps exceptional ones in that respect.
+
+In only one instance was it necessary for us to kill a rhino and even
+then it was done more in the interest of photography than of urgent
+necessity. On our game licenses we were each allowed to kill two rhinos,
+and as I wanted, one of the Tana River variety it was arranged that I
+should try to get the first big one with good horns. After a hunt of
+several hours we found two of them together out on the slope of a long
+hill. Our glasses showed that one of them was quite large and equipped
+with a splendid front horn nearly two feet long and a rear horn about a
+foot long. At the lower slope of the hill were two or three trees that
+screened our approach so that we were easily enabled to get within about
+one hundred and fifty yards of them without danger of discovery. From
+the trees onward the country was an open prairie for two or three miles.
+
+Armed with a double-barreled cordite rifle and the comforting reflection
+that the chances were seven to one that the rhinos would not charge, I
+slowly advanced alone toward the two rhinos. Behind me about fifty yards
+was the long range camera and a second gun manned by Mr. Stephenson.
+When fifty yards from the rhinos I stopped, but as no offensive tactics
+were apparent in the camp of the enemy, I slowly walked forward to
+thirty-five yards. Then they saw me. They faced me with what seemed like
+an attitude of decided unfriendliness. Their tails were up and they were
+snorting like steam engines. When the big one started toward me I fired
+and it fell like a log. The other one, instead of thundering away,
+according to expectations, became more belligerent. It ran a few steps,
+then swung around, and I felt certain that it was going to avenge the
+death of its comrade. The camera brigade rushed forward, clapping their
+hands to scare it away, as there was no desire to kill both of the
+animals. But it refused to go. It would sometimes run a few steps, then
+it would turn and come toward us. It was evidently in a fighting mood,
+with no intention of deserting the field of action. Finally by firing
+shots in the air and yelling noisily it turned and dashed over the side
+of the hill. The photograph, taken at the instant the big rhino was
+struck, was remarkably dramatic and showed one rhino in an aggressive
+attitude and the other just plunging down from the shot of the big
+bullet.
+
+The front horn of the dead rhino was twenty and three-quarters inches
+long and in many places the animal's hide was over an inch thick. Strips
+of this were cut off to make whips, and a large section was removed to
+be made into a table top. These table tops, polished and rendered
+translucent by the curing processes, are beautiful as well as extremely
+interesting. The rhino's tongue is even more delicious to eat than ox
+tongue and rhino tail soup is a great luxury on any white man's table;
+while the native porters consider rhino meat the finest of any meat to
+be had in Africa. The conscience of one who slays a rhino is somewhat
+appeased by the fact that a hundred native porters will have a good
+square meal of wholesome meat to help build up their systems.
+
+[Drawing: _A Real Rhino Charge_]
+
+Our expedition sustained only one real rhino charge. One day Mr.
+Stephenson stumbled on a big cow rhino that was lying in the grass. The
+meeting was as unexpected to him as to her, and before he could count
+five she was rushing headlong toward him. He clapped his hands,
+whistled, and shouted to turn her course, but she came on, snorting
+loudly and with head ready to impale everything in its way. Stephenson
+did not want to kill her, neither did he desire to be killed, so when
+all other means had failed he fired a soft nose bullet into her shoulder
+in the hope that it would turn her away without seriously hurting her.
+The bullet seemed to have no effect and she did not change her course in
+the slightest degree. By this time she was within a short distance of
+Stephenson, who was obliged to run a few feet and take refuge behind a
+tree.
+
+[Photograph: The Sultan Looked Like an American Indian]
+
+[Photograph: In the Thorn Brush on the Tana]
+
+[Photograph: The Dummy Rhino]
+
+The gunbearers and porters, who had fled in all directions, thought that
+Stephenson was caught, but the rhino, passing him with only a small
+margin of five feet, continued thunderously on her way. In a few yards
+she slowed down, and when last seen was walking. She had evidently been
+hit very hard by the soft nose bullet and was already showing signs of
+sickness. Suddenly a terrific squealing made the party aware that the
+cow rhino had been accompanied by a little rhino calf. The calf, only a
+couple of weeks old, charged savagely at every one in sight and every
+one in sight took refuge behind trees and bushes. Instead of trying to
+escape, the animal turned and continued to attack in all directions
+whenever a man showed himself. When a man leaped behind a tree the calf
+would charge the tree with such force that it would be hurled back
+several feet, only to spring up and charge again. His squealing could be
+heard for a mile. After a long time the porters succeeded in capturing
+it and they conveyed it back to camp strung on a pole. If that little
+rhino was any criterion of rhino pugnacity, then surely the rhino is
+born with the instinctive impulse to charge and to fight as savagely as
+any animal alive.
+
+We fed our little pet rhino on milk and then swung it in a comfortable
+hammock made of zebra skin. In this more or less undignified fashion it
+was carried by eight strong porters to Fort Hall, two marches away,
+where it lived only a week or ten days and then, to our sorrow and
+regret, succumbed from lack of proper nourishment.
+
+[Drawing: _Retiring in Favor of Rhino_]
+
+Sometimes, when the _safari_ is marching through bush country, the rhino
+becomes an element of considerable anxiety; An armed party must precede
+the caravan and clear the route of rhinos, otherwise the porters are
+likely to be scattered by threatened charges. It is no uncommon sight to
+see a crowd of heavily laden porters drop their loads and shin up the
+nearest tree in record time. Consequently, strong protective measures
+are always demanded when a long train of unarmed natives is moving
+through bush or scrub country where there are many rhinos.
+
+[Drawing: _Favorite Way of Being Photographed_]
+
+The lower Tana River country is admirably adapted to the life habits of
+the rhinos. Formerly the district was well settled by natives, but now,
+owing to the fever conditions prevailing there, the natives have all
+moved away to more wholesome places and only the forlorn remains of
+deserted villages mark where former prosperity reigned. The country has
+been abandoned to game, with the result that it has been enormously
+increasing during the last few years. In addition to the great numbers
+of rhinos there are big herds of buffalo, enormous numbers of hippo in
+the river, and many small droves of eland. Waterbuck, bushbuck,
+steinbuck, impalla, hartebeest and zebra dwell in comparative immunity
+from danger and may be seen in hundreds, grazing on the hills or in the
+woods that fringe the river. It is a sportsman's paradise, if he manages
+to escape the fever, and we enjoyed it tremendously, even though we shot
+only a hundredth part of what we might easily have shot. The charm of
+hunting in such a region lies in what one sees rather than in what one
+kills.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+MEETING COLONEL ROOSEVELT IN THE UTTERMOST OUTPOST OF SEMI-CIVILIZATION.
+HE TALKS OF MANY THINGS, HEARS THAT HE HAS BEEN REPORTED DEAD, AND
+PROMPTLY PLANS AN ELEPHANT HUNT
+
+
+After one has been in British East Africa two months he begins to
+readjust his preconceived ideas to fit real conditions. He discovers
+that nothing is really as bad as he feared it would be, and that
+distance, as usual, has magnified the terrors of a far-away land. In
+spite of the fact that he is in the heart of a primitive country,
+surrounded by native tribes that still are mystified by a glass mirror,
+and perhaps many days' march from the nearest white person, he still may
+feel that he is in touch with the great world outside. His mail reaches
+him somehow or other, even if he is in the center of some vast unsettled
+district devoid of roads or trails.
+
+How it is done is a mystery; but the fact remains that every once in a
+while a black man appears as by magic and hands one a package containing
+letters and telegrams. He is a native "runner," whose business it is to
+find you wherever you may be, and he does it, no matter how long it may
+take him. A telegram addressed to any sportsman in East Africa would
+reach him if only addressed with his name and the words "British East
+Africa." There are only four or five thousand white residents in the
+whole protectorate, and the names of these are duly catalogued and known
+to the post-office officials both in Mombasa and Nairobi.
+
+[Photograph: _In the Forest_]
+
+If a strange name appears on a letter or despatch, inquiries are made
+and the identity of the stranger is quickly established. If he is a
+sportsman, the outfitters in Nairobi will know who he is. They will have
+equipped him with porters and the other essentials of a caravan, and
+they will know exactly in which section of the protectorate he is
+hunting. So the letter is readdressed in care of the _boma_ or
+government station, nearest to that section. The letter duly arrives at
+the _boma_, and a native runner is told to go out and deliver the
+message. He starts off, and by inquiry of other natives and by relying
+on a natural instinct that is little short of marvelous he ultimately
+finds the object of his search and delivers his message.
+
+If you look at a map of British East Africa you will be amazed at the
+number of names that are marked upon it. You would quite naturally think
+that the country was rather thickly settled, whereas in fact there are
+very few places of settlement away from the single line of railroad that
+runs from Mombasa to Victoria Nyanza. The protectorate is divided into
+subdistricts, each one of which has a capital, or _boma_, as it is
+called. This _boma_ usually consists of a white man's residence, a
+little post-office, one or two Indian stores where all the necessities
+of a simple life may be procured, and a number of native grass huts.
+There is usually a small detachment of askaris, or native soldiers, who
+are necessary to enforce the law, repress any native uprising, and
+collect the hut tax of one dollar a year that is imposed upon each
+household in the district.
+
+Other names on the map may look important, but will prove to be only
+streams, or hills, or some landmarks that have been used by the
+surveyors to signify certain places. In our five weeks' trip through
+Trans-Tanaland we found only two _bomas_, Fort Hall and Embo, and three
+or four ranches where one or more white men lived. In our expedition to
+Mount Elgon we encountered only two places where the mark of
+civilization showed--Eldoma Ravine and Sergoi. In the former place the
+only white man was the subcommissioner, and in the latter there was one
+policeman, and a general store kept by a South African. A number of Boer
+settlers are scattered over the plateau, trying to reclaim little
+sections of land from its primitive state.
+
+Between Sergoi and Londiani, on the railroad, ninety miles south, there
+is one little store where caravans may buy food for porters and some of
+the simpler necessities that white men may require. All the rest of the
+country for thousands of square miles is given up to the lion and zebra
+and the vast herds of antelope that feed upon the rich grass of the
+plateau.
+
+Yet in spite of the sparsity of settlement the native runner manages to
+find you, even after days of traveling, without compass or directions to
+aid him.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. An Askari Who Looked Like a
+Tragedian]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mr. Akeley]
+
+Hunters who come to East Africa usually are sent to certain districts
+where game is known to be abundant. These districts are well defined and
+oftentimes there may be a number of _safaris_ in them at the same time,
+but so large are the districts that one group of hunters very rarely
+encroaches upon the others.
+
+Some parties are sent to Mount Kilima-Njaro, in the vicinity of which
+there is good hunting. Others are sent out from points along the
+railroad for certain classes of game that may be found only in those
+spots. Simba, on the railroad, is a favorite place for those who are
+after the yellow-maned or "plains" lion. Muhorini, also on the railroad,
+is a favorite place for those who want the roan antelope; Naivasha is a
+good place for hippo, and south of Kijabe, in what is called the Sotik,
+is a district where nearly all sorts of game abound. The Tana River is a
+favorite place for rhino, buffalo, nearly all sorts of antelope, and
+some lion; Mount Kenia is an elephant hunting ground, and the Aberdare
+Range, between Kenia and Naivasha, also is good for elephant. North of
+Kenia is the Guas Nyiro River, a rich district for game of many kinds.
+And so the country is divided up into sections that are sure to attract
+many sporting parties who desire certain kinds of game.
+
+Our first expedition out from Nairobi was across the Athi Plains to the
+Tana River and Mount Kenia, a wonderful trip for those who are willing
+to take chances with the fever down the Tana River. In five weeks we saw
+lion, rhino, buffalo, and elephant--the four groups of animals that are
+called "royal game"; also hippo, giraffe, eland, wildebeest, and many
+varieties of smaller game. It is doubtful whether there is any other
+section of East Africa where one could have a chance for so many
+different species of game in such a short time as the Tana River
+country.
+
+For our second expedition we selected the Guas Ngishu Plateau, the Nzoia
+River, and Mount Elgon. It is a long trip which involves elaborate
+preparation and some difficulty in keeping up supplies for the camp and
+the porters. It is the most promising place, however, for black-maned
+lion and elephant, and on account of these two capital prizes in the
+lottery of big game hunting occasional parties are willing to venture
+the time and expense necessary to reach this district.
+
+We disembarked, or "detrained," as they say down there, at a little
+station on the railroad called Londiani, eight miles south of the
+equator and about eighty miles from Victoria Nyanza. Then with two
+transport wagons drawn by thirty oxen, our horses for "galloping" lions,
+and one hundred porters, we marched north, always at an altitude of from
+seventy-five hundred to ninety-two hundred feet, through vast forests
+that stretched for miles on all sides. The country was beautiful beyond
+words--clean, wholesome, and vast. In many places the scenery was as
+trim, and apparently as finished as sections of the wooded hills and
+meadows of Surrey. One might easily imagine oneself in a great private
+estate where landscape gardeners had worked for years.
+
+[Drawing: _One of the Transport Wagons_]
+
+At night the cold was keen and four blankets were necessary the night we
+camped two miles from the equator. In the day the sun was hot in the
+midday hours, but never unpleasantly so. After two days of marching
+through forests and across great grassy folds in the earth we reached
+Eldoma Ravine, a subcommissioner's _boma_ that looks for all the world
+like a mountain health resort. From the hill upon which the station is
+situated one may look across the Great Rift Valley, two thousand feet
+below, and stretching away for miles across, like a Grand Cañon of
+Arizona without any mountains in it. Strong stone walls protect the
+white residence, for this is a section of the country that has suffered
+much from native uprisings during the last few years. We called on the
+solitary white resident one evening, and, true to the creed of the
+Briton, he had dressed for dinner. The sight of a man in a dinner-coat
+miles from a white man and leagues from a white woman was something to
+remember and marvel at.
+
+Northward from Eldoma Ravine for days we marched, sometimes in dense
+forests so thick that a man could scarcely force himself through the
+undergrowth that flanked the trail, and sometimes through upland meadows
+so deep in tall yellow grass as to suggest a field of waving grain, then
+through miles of country studded with the gnarled thorn tree that looks
+so much like our apple trees at home. It was as though we were
+traversing an endless orchard, clean, beautiful, and exhilarating in the
+cool winds of the African highlands. And then, all suddenly, we came to
+the end of the trees, and before us, like a great, heaving yellow sea,
+lay the Guas Ngishu Plateau that stretches northward one hundred miles
+and always above seven thousand feet in altitude.
+
+Far ahead, like a little knob of blue, was Sergoi Hill, forty miles
+away, and beyond, in a fainter blue, were the hills that mark the limit
+of white man's passport. On the map that district is marked: "Natives
+probably treacherous." Off to the left, a hundred miles away, the dim
+outline of Mount Elgon rose in easy slopes from the horizon. Elgon, with
+its elephants, was our goal, and in between were the black-maned lions
+that we hoped to meet.
+
+It would be hard to exaggerate the charm of this climate. And yet this,
+one thought, was equatorial Africa, which, in the popular imagination,
+is supposed to be synonymous with torrential rains, malignant fevers,
+and dense jungles of matted vegetation. It was more like the friendly
+stretches of Colorado scenery at the time of year when the grasses of
+the valley are dotted with flowers of many colors and the sun shines
+down upon you with genial warmth.
+
+[Drawing: _A Night on the Equator_]
+
+Each morning we marched ten or twelve miles and then went into camp near
+some little stream. In the afternoon we hunted for lions, beating out
+swamps, scouting every bit of cover and combing the tall grass for hours
+at a time. Hartebeest, topi, zebra, eland, oribi, reedbuck, and small
+grass antelope were upon all sides and at all times.
+
+The herds of zebra and hartebeest literally numbered thousands, but,
+except as the latter were occasionally required for food for the
+porters, we seldom tried to shoot them. Every Boer settler we saw was
+interviewed and every promising lion clue was followed to the bitter
+end, but without result. Sometimes we remained in one camp a day or more
+in order to search the lion retreats more thoroughly, but never a
+black-maned lion was routed from his lair. A few weeks later, when the
+dry grass had been burned to make way for new grass, as is done each
+year, the chances would be greatly improved, and we hoped for better
+luck when we retraced our steps from Elgon in December. Before that time
+it would be like trying to find a needle in a haystack to find a lion in
+the tall grass, and a good deal more dangerous if we did find one. There
+were lots of them there, but they were taking excellent care of
+themselves. In July, three months previous, Mr. McMillan, Mr. Selous,
+and Mr. Williams were in this same district after black-maned lions.
+They heard them every night, but saw only one in several weeks. This
+one, however, made a distinct impression. Williams saw it one day and
+wounded it at two hundred yards. The lion charged and could not be
+stopped by Williams' bullets. It was only after it had leaped on the
+hunter and frightfully mauled him that the lion succumbed to its wounds.
+And it was only after months of suffering that Williams finally
+recovered from the mauling.
+
+We felt that if Frederick Selous, the world's greatest big game hunter,
+could not find the lion, then our chances were somewhat slim.
+
+[Drawing: _Lion Hunting in Tall Grass_]
+
+There had been few parties in this district since McMillan's party left.
+Captain Ashton came in two months before us, and we met him on his way
+out. With him was Captain Black, a professional elephant hunter, who,
+three years before, on the Aberdare, had had a bad experience with an
+elephant. It was a cow that he had wounded but failed to kill. She
+charged him and knocked him down in a pile of very thick and matted
+brush. Three times she trampled him under her feet, but the bushes
+served as a kind of mattress and the captain escaped with only a few
+hones broken; although he was laid up for five weeks. Ashton and Black
+did not have much luck in the present trip and failed to get a single
+lion.
+
+Two Spaniards passed our camp one day, inward bound. They were the Duke
+of Peñaranda and Sr. de la Huerta, and reported no lions during their
+few days in the district. Prince Lichtenstein was also somewhere on the
+plateau, but we didn't run across him. In addition to these three
+parties and ours, the only other expedition in the Guas Ngishu Plateau
+was Colonel Roosevelt's party, toward which, by previous agreement, we
+made our way.
+
+A number of months before Mr. Akeley, who headed our party, was dining
+with President Roosevelt at the White House. In the course of their
+talk, which was about Africa and Mr. Akeley's former African hunting and
+collecting experiences, the latter had told the president about a group
+of elephants that he was going to collect and mount for the American
+Museum of History in New York. President Roosevelt was asked if he would
+coöperate in the work, and he expressed a keen willingness to do so.
+When our party arrived at Nairobi, in September, a letter awaited Mr.
+Akeley, renewing Colonel Roosevelt's desire to help in collecting the
+group.
+
+It was in answer to this invitation that Mr. Akeley and our party had
+gone to the Mount Elgon country to meet Mr. Roosevelt and carry out the
+elephant-hunting compact made many months before at the White House.
+
+[Photograph: Kermit, Leslie Tarlton and Colonel Roosevelt]
+
+[Photograph: Winding Through Unbroken Country]
+
+[Photograph: Our Safari on the March]
+
+Eleven days of marching and hunting from the railroad brought us to
+Sergoi, the very uttermost outpost of semi-civilization. Here we found
+another letter in which Mr. Akeley was asked to come to the Roosevelt
+camp, and which suggested that a native runner could pilot him to its
+whereabouts. The letter had been written some days before and had been
+for some time at Sergoi. Whether the Roosevelt camp had been moved in
+the meantime could not be determined at Sergoi, and we knew only in a
+general way that it was probably somewhere on the Nzoia River
+(pronounced Enzoya), two or three days' march west of Sergoi, toward
+Mount Elgon.
+
+So we started across, meeting no natives who possibly could have given
+any information. On the afternoon of November thirteenth we went into
+camp on the edge of a great swamp, or _tinga-tinga_, as the natives
+call it, only a couple of hours' march from the river. Many fresh
+elephant trails had been discovered, and the swamp itself looked like a
+most promising place for lions. A great tree stood on one side of the
+swamp, and in its branches was a platform which an Englishman had
+occupied seven nights in a vain quest for lions some time before. A
+little grass shelter was below the tree, and as we approached a
+Wanderobo darted out and ran in terror from us. The Wanderobos are
+native hunters who live in the forests, and are as shy as wild animals.
+So we could not question him as to Colonel Roosevelt's camp. Later in
+the afternoon a native runner appeared from the direction of Sergoi with
+a message to the colonel, but he didn't know where the camp was and
+didn't seem to be in any great hurry to find out. He calmly made himself
+the guest of one of our porters and spent the night in our camp, doing
+much more sitting than running.
+
+On the morning of the fourteenth we marched toward the river, two hours
+away, the native runner slowly ambling along with us. We had been on the
+trail about an hour and a half when a shot was heard off to our left; At
+first we thought it was our Spanish friends, but a few moments later we
+came to a point where we could see, about a mile away, a long string of
+porters winding along in the direction from which we came, it was
+plainly a much larger _safari_ than the Spanish one, and we at once
+concluded that it was Colonel Roosevelt's.
+
+Three or four men on horses were visible, but could not be recognized
+with our glasses. The number corresponded to the colonel's party,
+however, which we knew to consist of himself and Kermit, Edmund Heller
+and Leslie Tarlton. A messenger was sent across the hills to establish
+their identity and we marched on to the river, a half-hour farther,
+where we found the smoldering fires of their camp.
+
+A transport wagon of supplies for the Duke of Peñaranda's _safari_ was
+also there, and from the drivers it was definitely learned that the late
+occupants of the camp were Mr. Roosevelt and his party. In the meantime
+the messenger had reached Colonel Roosevelt, and when the latter learned
+that Mr. Akeley's _safari_ was in the vicinity he at once ordered camp
+pitched forty-five minutes from our camp, and started across to see
+Akeley. The latter had also started across to see the colonel, and they
+met on the way. And during all this time the native runner with the
+message to Colonel Roosevelt was loafing the morning away in our camp.
+What the message might be, of course, we didn't know, but we hoped that
+it was nothing of importance. It was only when the colonel and his party
+reached our camp that the message was delivered. As we stood talking and
+congratulating everybody on how well he was looking the colonel casually
+opened the message.
+
+He seemed amused, and somewhat surprised, and at once read it aloud to
+us. It was from America, and said: "Reported here you have been killed.
+Mrs. Roosevelt worried. Cable denial American Embassy, Rome." It was
+dated November sixth, eight days before.
+
+"I think I might answer that by saying that the report is premature," he
+said, laughing, and then told the story of a Texas man who had commented
+on a similar report in the same words.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt certainly didn't look dead. If ever a man looked
+rugged and healthy and in splendid physical condition he certainly did
+on the day that this despatch reached him. His cheeks were burned to a
+ruddy tan and his eyes were as clear as a plainsman's. He laughed and
+joked and commented on the news that we told him with all the enthusiasm
+of one who knows no physical cares or worries.
+
+[Drawing: _Reading the Report That He Had Been Killed_]
+
+"If I could have seen you an hour and a half ago," he told Akeley, "I
+could have got you the elephants you want for your group. We passed
+within only a few yards of a herd of ten this morning, and Kermit got
+within thirty yards to make some photographs." They had not shot any,
+however, as they had received no answer to the letter sent several days
+before to Mr. Akeley and consequently did not know positively that his
+party had reached the plateau.
+
+The colonel asked about George Ade, commented vigorously and with
+prophetic insight on the Cook-Peary controversy, and read aloud, in
+excellent dialect, a Dooley article on the subject, which I had saved
+from an old copy of the Chicago _Tribune_. He commented very frankly,
+with no semblance at hypocrisy, on Mr. Harriman's death, told many of
+his experiences in the hunting field, and for three hours, at lunch and
+afterward, he talked with the freedom of one who was glad to see some
+American friends in the wilderness and who had no objection to showing
+his pleasure at such a meeting.
+
+He talked about the tariff and about many public men and public
+questions with a frankness that compels even a newspaper man to regard
+as being confidential. Our _safari_ was the only one he had met in the
+field since he had been in Africa, and it was evident that the efforts
+of the protectorate officials to save him from interference and
+intrusion had been successful.
+
+Arrangements were then made for an elephant hunt. Colonel Roosevelt was
+working on schedule time, and had planned to be in Sergoi on the
+seventeenth. He agreed to a hunt that should cover the fifteenth,
+sixteenth, and possibly the seventeenth, trusting that they might be
+successful in this period and that a hard forced march could get him to
+Sergoi on the night of the eighteenth.
+
+It was arranged that he and Mr. Akeley, with Kermit and Tarlton and one
+tent should start early the next morning on the hunt, trusting to luck
+in overtaking the herd that he had seen in the morning. The hunt was
+enormously successful, and the adventures they had were so interesting
+that they deserve a separate chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE COLONEL READS MACAULAY'S "ESSAYS," DISCOURSES ON MANY SUBJECTS WITH
+GREAT FRANKNESS, DECLINES A DRINK OF SCOTCH WHISKY, AND KILLS THREE
+ELEPHANTS
+
+
+On the afternoon of November fourteenth, a little cavalcade of horsemen
+might have been seen riding slowly away from our camp on the Nzoia
+River. One of them, evidently the leader, was a well-built man of about
+fifty-one years, tanned by many months of African hunting and wearing a
+pair of large spectacles. His teeth flashed in the warm sunlight. A
+rough hunting shirt encased his well-knit body and a pair of rougher
+trousers, reinforced with leather knee caps and jointly sustained by
+suspenders and a belt, fitted in loose folds around his stocky legs. On
+his head was a big sun helmet, and around his waist, less generous in
+amplitude than formerly, was a partly filled belt of Winchester
+cartridges. His horse was a stout little Abyssinian shooting pony, gray
+of color and lean in build, and in the blood-stained saddle-bag was a
+well-worn copy of Macaulay's _Essays_, bound in pigskin. Our hero--for
+it was he--was none other than Bwana Tumbo, the hunter-naturalist,
+exponent of the strenuous life, and ex-president of the United States.
+
+[Drawing: _Improving Each Shining Hour_]
+
+If I were writing a thrilling story of adventure that is the way this
+story would begin. But as this is designed to be a simple chronicle of
+events, it is just as well at once to get down to basic facts and tell
+about the Roosevelt elephant hunt, the hyena episode, and the pigskin
+library, together with other more or less extraneous matter.
+
+[Photograph: A Flag Flew Over the Colonel's Tent]
+
+[Photograph: Kermit and Mr. Stephenson Diagnosing the Case]
+
+Colonel Roosevelt, his son Kermit, Leslie Tarlton, who is managing the
+Roosevelt expedition, and Edmund Heller, the taxidermist of the
+expedition, came to our camp on the fourteenth of November to have
+luncheon and to talk over plans whereby Colonel Roosevelt was to kill
+one or more elephants for Mr. Akeley's American museum group of five or
+six elephants. The details were all arranged and later in the afternoon
+the colonel and his party left for their own camp, only a short distance
+from ours.
+
+Mr. Akeley, with one of our tents and about forty porters, followed
+later in the evening and spent the night at the Roosevelt camp. The
+following morning Colonel Roosevelt, Mr. Akeley, Mr. Tarlton and Kermit,
+with two tents and forty porters and gunbearers, started early in the
+hope of again finding the trail of the small herd of elephants that had
+been seen the day before. The trail was picked up after a short time and
+the party of hunters expected that it would be a long and wearisome
+pursuit, for it was evident that the elephants had become nervous and
+were moving steadily along without stopping to feed. In such cases they
+frequently travel forty or fifty miles before settling down to quiet
+feeding again.
+
+The country was hilly, deep with dry grass, and badly cut up with small
+gullies and jagged out-croppings of rock on the low ridges. At all times
+the ears of the hunting party were alert for any sound that would
+indicate the proximity of the herd, but for several hours no trumpeting,
+nor intestinal rumbling, nor crash of tusks against small trees were
+heard. Finally, at about eleven o'clock, Tarlton, who, strangely enough,
+is partly deaf, heard a sound that caused the hunting party to stop
+short. He heard elephants. They were undoubtedly only a short distance
+ahead, but as the wind was from their direction there was little
+likelihood that they had heard the approach of the hunters. So Tarlton,
+who has had much experience in elephant hunting, led the party off at a
+right angle from the elephant trail and then, turning, paralleled the
+trail a few hundred feet away. They had gone only a short distance when
+it became evident that they had passed the herd, which was hidden by the
+tall grass and the thickly-growing scrub trees that grew on all sides.
+
+The wooded character of the country rendered it easy to stalk the
+elephant herd, and with careful attention to the wind, the four hunters
+and their gunbearers advanced under cover until the elephants could be
+seen and studied. Each of the four hunters carried a large
+double-barreled cordite rifle that fires a five-hundred-grain bullet,
+backed up by nearly a hundred grains of cordite.
+
+As was expected, the herd consisted solely of cows and calves. There
+were eight cow elephants and two _totos_, or calves, a circumstance that
+was particularly fortunate, as Colonel Roosevelt was expected to secure
+one or two cows for the group, while some one else was to get the calf.
+
+For some moments the hunting party studied the group of animals and
+finally decided which ones were the best for the group.
+
+Two of the largest cows and the calf of one of them were selected. It is
+always the desire of collectors who kill groups of animals for museums
+to kill the calf and the mother at the same time whenever practicable,
+so that neither one is left to mourn the loss of the other. It is one of
+the unpleasant features of group collecting that calves must be killed,
+but the collector justifies himself in the thought that many thousands
+of people will be instructed and interested in the group when it is
+finished.
+
+Elephant hunting is considered by many African hunters as being the most
+dangerous of all hunting. When a man is wounded by an elephant he is
+pretty likely to die, whereas the wounds inflicted by lions are often
+not necessarily mortal ones. Also, in fighting a wounded lion one may
+sometimes take refuge in the low branches of a tree, but with a wounded
+elephant there is rarely time to climb high enough and quick enough to
+escape the frenzied animal. In elephant shooting, also, the hunter
+endeavors to approach within twenty or thirty yards, so that the bullets
+may be placed exactly where their penetration will be the most
+instantaneously deadly. Consequently, a badly placed bullet may merely
+infuriate the elephant without giving the hunter time to gain a place of
+safety, and thus be much worse than if the hunter had entirely missed
+his mark.
+
+Among elephant hunters it is considered more dangerous to attack a cow
+elephant than a bull, for the cow is always ready and eager to defend
+its calf, hence when Colonel Roosevelt prepared to open fire on a cow
+elephant, accompanied by a calf, at a range of thirty yards, in a
+district where the highest tree was within reach of an elephant's trunk,
+the situation was one fraught with tense uncertainty.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt is undoubtedly a brave man. The men who have hunted
+with him in Africa say that he has never shown the slightest sign of
+fear in all the months of big game hunting that they have done together.
+He "holds straight," as they say in shooting parlance, and at short
+range, where his eyesight is most effective, he shoots accurately.
+
+This, then, was the dramatic situation at about twelve o'clock noon on
+November fifteenth, eight miles east of the Nzoia River, near Mount
+Elgon: Eight cow elephants, two _totos_, one ex-president with a
+double-barreled cordite rifle thirty yards away, supported by three
+other hunters similarly armed, with native gunbearers held in the rear
+as a supporting column.
+
+The colonel opened fire; the biggest cow dropped to her knees and in an
+instant the air was thunderous with the excited "milling" of the herd of
+elephants. For several anxious minutes the spot was the scene of much
+confusion, and when quiet was once more restored Colonel Roosevelt had
+killed three elephants and Kermit had killed one of the calves. It had
+not been intended or desired to kill more than two of the cows, but with
+a herd of angry elephants threatening to annihilate an attacking party,
+sometimes the prearranged plans do not work out according to
+specifications.
+
+Kermit was hastily despatched to notify our camp and the work of
+preparing the skins of the elephants was at once begun.
+
+In the meantime, we at our camp, eight miles away from the scene of
+battle, were waiting eagerly for news of the hunting party, although
+expecting nothing for a day of so. It seemed too much to expect that the
+hunt should have such a quick and successful termination. So when Kermit
+rode in with the news late in the afternoon it was a time for
+felicitation. We all solemnly took a drink, which in itself was an
+event, for our camp was a "dry" camp when in the field. Only the killing
+of a lion had been sufficient provocation for taking off the "lid," but
+on the strength of three elephants for the group the "lid" was
+momentarily raised with much ceremony and circumstance.
+
+The burden of Kermit's message was "salt, salt, salt!" and porters and
+second gunbearers to help with the skinning. So James L. Clark, who has
+been connected with the American Museum of History for some time and who
+was with us on the Mount Elgon trip to help Mr. Akeley with the
+preparation of the group, started off with a lot of porters laden with
+salt for preserving the skins. It was his plan to go direct to the main
+Roosevelt camp, get a guide, and then push on to the elephant camp,
+where he hoped to arrive by ten o'clock at night. He would then be in
+time to help with the skinning, which we expected would be continued
+throughout the entire night. Kermit stopped at his own camp and gave
+Clark a guide for the rest of the journey, after which he went to bed.
+
+At eleven o'clock the sound of firing was heard some place off in the
+darkness. The night guard of the Roosevelt camp, rightly construing it
+to be a signal, answered it with a shot, and, guided by the latter,
+Clark and his party of salt-laden porters once more appeared. They had
+traveled in a circle for three hours and were hopelessly lost. Kermit
+was routed out and again supplied more guides--also a compass and also
+the direction to follow. Unfortunately he made a mistake and said
+northwest instead of southeast--otherwise his directions were perfect.
+
+For three hours more Clark and his porters went bumping through the
+night, stumbling through the long grass and falling into hidden holes.
+The porters began to be mutinous and the guides were thoroughly and
+hopelessly lost. It was then that they one and all laid down in the tall
+grass, made a fire to keep the lions and leopards away, and slept
+soundly until daylight. Even then the situation was little better, for
+the guides were still at sea. About the time that Clark decided, to
+return to the river, miles away, and take a fresh start, he fired a shot
+in the forlorn hope of getting a response from some section of the
+compass. A distant shot came in answer and he pushed on and soon came up
+with the colonel and Tarlton returning home after a night in the
+temporary elephant camp. The colonel gave him full directions and at
+nine o'clock the relief party arrived at their destination.
+
+In the meantime we, Mrs. Akeley, Stephenson and myself, had left our
+camp on the river at six-fifteen, gone to the Roosevelt camp, and with
+Kermit guiding us proceeded on across country toward the elephant camp.
+On our way we also met the colonel and Tarlton, the former immensely
+pleased with the outcome of the hunt and full of enthusiasm about the
+adventure with the elephants. But the most remarkable thing of all, he
+said, was the hyena incident. He told us the story, and it is surely one
+that will make all nature fakers sit up in an incredulous and dissenting
+mood.
+
+During the night, the story goes, many hyenas had come from far and near
+to gorge on the carcasses of the elephants. Their howls filled the night
+with weird sounds. Lions also journeyed to the feast, and between the
+two they mumbled the bones of the slain with many a howl and snarl.
+Early in the morning the colonel went out in the hope of surprising a
+lion at the spread. Instead, to his great amazement, he saw the head of
+a hyena protruding from the distended side of the largest elephant. It
+was inside the elephant and was looking out, as through a window. A
+single shot finished the hyena, after which a more careful examination
+was made.
+
+There are two theories as to what really happened. One is that the hyena
+ate its way into the inside of the elephant, then gorged itself so that
+its stomach was distended to such proportions that it couldn't get
+through the hole by which it had entered the carcass.
+
+[Drawing: _The Hyena Episode_]
+
+The other theory is that, after eating its way into the elephant, it
+started to eat its way out by a different route. When its head emerged
+the heavy muscles of the elephant's side inclosed about its neck like a
+vise, entrapping the hyena as effectively as though it had its head in a
+steel trap. In the animal's despairing efforts to escape it had kicked
+one leg out through the thick walls of the elephant's side.
+
+[Photograph: Kermit Roosevelt]
+
+[Photograph: "Peeling" an elephant]
+
+The colonel, in parting, asked us to stop with him for lunch on our way
+back and he would tell us all about the elephant hunt and show us his
+pigskin library. In return we promised to photograph the hyena and thus
+be prepared to render expert testimony in case, some time in the future,
+he might get into a controversy with the nature fakers as to the truth
+of the incident.
+
+We then resumed our journey and arrived at the elephant camp at
+nine-thirty. It was a scene of industry. The skins of the two largest
+elephants and that of the calf had been removed the afternoon before and
+were spread out under a cluster of trees. Twenty or thirty porters were
+squatted around the various ears and strips of hide and massive feet,
+paring off all the little particles of flesh or tissue that remained. As
+fast as a section of hide was stripped it was thickly covered with salt
+and rolled up. This is the preliminary step. Afterwards the skin, in
+many places an inch in thickness, is pared down to a condition of
+pliable thinness. This work requires hours or even days of hard labor by
+many skilful wielders of the paring knife. The skulls and many of the
+bones are saved when an animal is being preserved for a museum, but when
+we arrived they had not yet been removed from the carcasses.
+
+Our first object was to visit the hyena, which we found still protruding
+from the side of his tomb. We photographed him from all angles, after
+which he was disinterred and exposed to full view. He had certainly died
+happy. He had literally eaten himself to death, and his body was so
+distended from gorging that it was as round as a ball. Colonel Roosevelt
+also photographed it, so that there will be no lack of evidence if the
+incident ever reaches the controversial stage.
+
+The third cow killed by Colonel Roosevelt was too small for the group,
+so the skin was divided up as souvenirs of the day. We each got a foot,
+fifteen square feet of skin, and one of the ears was saved for the
+colonel.
+
+We then started on the long two hours' ride back to the Roosevelt camp,
+arriving there at a few minutes before one o'clock. We had not been in
+camp ten minutes before a whirlwind came along, blew down a tent, and in
+another minute was gone.
+
+A big American flag was flying from the colonel's tent, and he came out
+and, greeted us with the utmost cordiality and warmth. In honor of the
+occasion he had put on his coat and a green knit tie. He was beaming
+with pleasure at the result of the elephant hunt and seemed proud that
+he was to have elephants in the American Museum group to be done by Mr.
+Akeley. Heller was stuffing some birds and mice and was as slouchy,
+deliberate and as full of dry humor as any one I've ever seen. He is a
+character of a most likable type. Tarlton, small, with short cropped red
+hair--a sort of Scotchman in appearance--is also a remarkable type. He
+has a quiet voice, never raised in tone, and talks like the university
+man that he is. He is a famous lion hunter and has killed numbers of
+lions and elephants, but now he says he is through with dangerous game.
+
+"I've had enough of it," he says.
+
+The colonel, Tarlton, Heller, and Kermit were the only members of the
+expedition present, Mearns and Loring having been engaged in a separate
+mission up in the Kenia country for several weeks, while Cuninghame had
+gone to Uganda to make preparations for the future operations of the
+party in that country.
+
+Mrs. Akeley washed up in the colonel's tent, while Stephenson and I used
+Kermit's tent, and as we washed and scrubbed away the memories of the
+elephant carcasses the colonel stood in the door and talked to us.
+
+We told him that each of us had taken a drink of Scotch whisky the
+evening before in honor of the elephants--the first drinks we had taken
+for weeks.
+
+"I'd do the same," said the colonel, "but I don't like Scotch whisky. As
+a matter of fact, I have taken only three drinks of brandy since I've
+been in Africa, twice when I was exhausted and once when I was feeling a
+little feverish. Before I left Washington there were lots of people
+saying that I was a drunkard, and that I could never do any work until I
+had emptied a bottle or two of liquor."
+
+We told him that we had heard these rumors frequently during the closing
+months of his administration, and he laughed.
+
+"I never drank whisky," he said; "not from principle, but because I
+don't like it. I seldom drink wine, because I'm rather particular about
+the kind of wine I drink. We have some champagne with us, but the
+thought of drinking hot champagne in this country is unpleasant.
+Sometimes, when I can get wines that just suit my taste, I drink a
+little, but never much. The three drinks of brandy are all I've had in
+Africa, and I'm sure that I've not taken one in the last four months.
+They had all sorts of stories out about me before I left
+Washington--that I was drinking hard and that I was crazy. I may be
+crazy," he said, laughing, "but I most certainly haven't been drinking
+hard."
+
+The luncheon was a merry affair. Heller had been out in the swamp in
+front of the camp and had shot some ducks for luncheon.
+
+"On my way in," said the colonel, "I shot an oribi, but when I heard
+that Heller had shot some ducks I knew that my oribi would not be
+served."
+
+It was evident that the most thorough good fellowship existed among the
+members of the colonel's party. His fondness for all of them was in
+constant evidence--in the way he joked with them and in the complete
+absence of restraint in their attitude toward him.
+
+"They were told that I would be a hard man to get along with in the
+field," Colonel Roosevelt said, "but we've had a perfectly splendid time
+together."
+
+I asked him whether he had been receiving newspapers, and, if not,
+whether he would like to see some that I had received from home. He
+answered that he had not seen any and really didn't want to see any.
+
+"I don't believe in clinging to the tattered shreds of former
+greatness," he said, laughing.
+
+He had not heard that Governor Johnson, of Minnesota, had died, and when
+we told him he said that Johnson would undoubtedly have been the
+strongest presidential candidate the Democrats could have nominated the
+next time. He wanted to know where he could address a note of sympathy
+to Mrs. Johnson.
+
+Later, in speaking of a prominent public man who loudly disclaimed
+responsibility for an act committed by a subordinate, he said:
+
+"It would have been far better to have said nothing about it, but let
+people think he himself had given the order. Very often subordinates say
+and do things that are credited to their superiors, and it is never good
+policy to try to shift the blame. Do you remember the time Root was in
+South America? Well, some president down there sent me a congratulatory
+telegram which reached Washington when I was away. Mr. ---- of the state
+department answered it in my name and said that I and 'my people' were
+pleased with the reception they were giving Mr. Root. Well, the New York
+_Sun_ took the matter up and when the fleet went around the world they
+referred to it as 'my fleet,' and that 'my fleet' had crossed 'my
+equator' four times and 'my ocean' a couple of times. It was very
+cleverly done and some people began to call for a Brutus to curb my
+imperialistic tendencies."
+
+[Drawing: _Writing His Adventures While They're Hot_]
+
+He told a funny story about John L. Sullivan, who came to the White
+House to intercede for a nephew who had got into trouble in the navy.
+John L. told what a nice woman the boy's mother was and what a terrible
+disgrace it would be for himself and his family if the boy was dropped
+from the navy. "Why, if he hadn't gone into the navy he might have
+turned out very bad," said John L.; "taken up music or something like
+that."
+
+We also told him that some of the American papers were keeping score on
+the game he had killed, and that whenever the cable reported a new
+victim the score up to date would be published like a base-ball
+percentage table. In the last report he was quoted as having killed
+seven lions, while Kermit had killed ten. This seemed to amuse him very
+much, although the figures were not strictly accurate. His score was
+nine and Kermit's eight up to date. He was also amused by the habit the
+American papers have of calling him "Bwana Tumbo," which means "The
+Master with the Stomach," a title that did not fit him nearly so
+appropriately then as it might have done before he began his active days
+in the hunting field. He said, so far as he knew, the porters called him
+"Bwana Mkubwa," which means "Great Master," and is applied to the chief
+man of a _safari_, regardless of who or what he is. It is merely a title
+that is always used to designate the boss. We told him that many natives
+we had met would invariably refer to him as the Sultana Mkubwa, or Great
+Sultan, because they had heard that he was a big chief from America.
+
+He also laughingly quoted the attitude of Wall Street as expressed in
+the statement that they "hoped every lion would do his duty."
+
+Later, in speaking generally of the odd experiences he had had in
+Africa, he spoke of one that will surely be regarded as a nature fake
+when he tells it. It was an experience that he and Cuninghame had with a
+big bull giraffe which they approached as it slept. When they were
+within ten feet of it it opened its eyes and stared at them. A slight
+movement on their part caused it to strike out with its front foot, but
+without rising. Then, as they made no offensive moves, it continued to
+regard them sleepily and without fear. Even when they threw sticks at it
+it refused to budge, and it was only after some time that it was chased
+away, where it came to a stop only fifty yards off.
+
+"I suppose W.J. Long will call that a nature fake," he said, "and I wish
+that I had had a camera with me so that I could have photographed it.
+I'm afraid they won't believe Cuninghame, because they don't know him."
+
+In the course of the luncheon the conversation ranged from politics,
+public men, his magazine work, some phases of Illinois politics, as
+involved in the recent senatorial election, his future plans of the
+present African trip and many of the little experiences he had had since
+arriving in the country. Much that was said was of such frankness,
+particularly as to public men, as to be obviously confidential.
+
+[Photograph: Kermit Led the Way to the Elephant Camp]
+
+[Photograph: The Elephants' Skulls Were Saved]
+
+[Photograph: Removing an Elephant's Skin]
+
+He was asked whether he had secured, among his trophies, any new species
+of animal that might be named after him. In Africa there is a custom
+of giving the discoverer's name to any new kind or class of animal
+that is killed. For instance, the name "granti" is applied to the
+gazelle first discovered by the explorer Grant. "Thompsoni" is applied
+to the gazelle discovered by Thompson. "Cokei" is the name given the
+hartebeest discovered by Coke, and so on. If Colonel Roosevelt had
+discovered a new variation of any of the species it would be called the
+"Roosevelti ----."
+
+The colonel said that he had not discovered any new animals, but that
+Heller, he thought, had found some new variety of mouse or mole on Mount
+Kenia. He supposed that it would be called the Mole Helleri.
+
+He then told about an exciting adventure they had with a hippo two
+nights before. Away in the night the camp was aroused by screams coming
+from the big swamp in front. Kongoni, his gunbearer, rushed in and
+shouted: "Lion eat porter!" The colonel grabbed his gun and dashed out
+in the darkness. Kermit and one or two others, hastily armed, also
+appeared, and they charged down the swamp, where a hippo had made its
+appearance in the neighborhood of a terrified porter. Kermit dimly made
+out the hippo and shot at it, but it disappeared and could not be found
+again.
+
+After luncheon the colonel said, "Now, I want to inflict my pigskin
+library on you," and together we went into his tent and he opened an
+oilcloth-covered, aluminum-lined case that was closely packed with
+books, nearly all of which were bound in pigskin. It was a present from
+his sister, Mrs. Douglas Robinson. The tent was lined with red,
+evidently Kermit's darkroom when he was developing pictures. A little
+table stood at the open flaps of the entrance and upon it were writing
+materials, with which Mr. Roosevelt already had started to write up the
+elephant hunt of the day before. His motto seems to be, "Do it now, if
+not sooner."
+
+[Drawing: _The Pigskin Library_]
+
+I sat on his cot, Mrs. Akeley on a small tin trunk, and Stephenson on
+another. The colonel squatted down on the floor cloth of the tent and
+began to show us one by one the various literary treasures from his
+pigskin library. The whole box of books was so designed that it weighed
+only sixty pounds, and was thus within the limit of a porter's load.
+Some of the books were well stained from frequent use and from contact
+with the contents of his saddle-bags. Whenever he went on a hunt he
+carried one or more of these little volumes, which he would take out and
+read from time to time when there was nothing else to do. He never
+seemed to waste a moment.
+
+His pride in the library was evident, and the fondness with which he
+brought forth the books was the fondness of an honest enthusiast.
+
+"Some people don't consider Longfellow a great poet, but I do," he said,
+as he showed a little volume of the poet's works. "Lowell is represented
+here, but I think, toward the end of his life, he became too much
+Bostonian. The best American," he said later, "is a Bostonian who has
+lived ten years west of the Mississippi."
+
+He then showed us his work-box, a compact leather case containing pads
+of paper, pens, lead pencils, and other requirements of the writer. I
+did not see a type-writing machine such as we cartoonists have so often
+represented in our cartoons of Mr. Roosevelt in Africa. But, then,
+cartoonists are not always strictly accurate.
+
+Later on he spoke of the lectures he was to deliver in Berlin, at the
+Sorbonne in Paris, and in Oxford the following spring. I told him how
+surprised I had been to hear that he had prepared these lectures during
+the rush of the last few weeks of his administration. He said that he
+probably would be regarded as a representative American in those
+lectures and that he wanted to do them just as well as he possibly
+could. He knew that there would be no time nor library references in
+Africa, and so he had prepared them in Washington before leaving
+America.
+
+In regard to his future movements he seemed sorry that he was obliged to
+take the Nile trip, and that he was only doing it as a matter of
+business--that he had to get a white rhino, which is found only along
+certain parts of the Nile.
+
+"Going back by the Nile is a long and hard trip. For the first twelve
+days we will not fire a shot, probably. It will mean getting started
+every morning at three o'clock, marching until ten, then sweating under
+mosquito bars during the heat of the day, with spirillum ticks,
+sleeping-sickness flies, and all sorts of pests to bother one; then long
+days on the Nile, with nothing to see but papyrus reeds on each side."
+
+And speaking of "rhinos" suggests a little incident that the colonel
+told and which he considers amusing.
+
+"One day one of the party was stalking a buffalo, when a rhino suddenly
+appeared some distance away and threatened to charge or do something
+that would alarm the buffalo and scare it away. So they told me to hurry
+down and shoo the rhino off while they finished their stalk and got the
+buffalo. So, you see, there's an occupation. That settles the question
+as to what shall we do with our ex-presidents. They can be used to scare
+rhinos away."
+
+On hearing this story I remembered that the thick-skinned rhino is
+sometimes used by cartoonists as a symbol for "the trusts," and the
+story seemed doubly appropriate as applied to this particular
+ex-president.
+
+Some member of our party then modestly advanced the suggestion that the
+colonel might some day be back in the White House again. He laughed and
+said that the kaleidoscope never repeats.
+
+"They needn't worry about what to do with this ex-president," he said.
+"I have work laid out for a long time ahead."
+
+Another member of our party then told about the Roosevelt act in _The
+Follies of 1909_, in one part of which some one asks Kermit (in the
+play) where the "ex-president" is. "You mean the 'next president,' don't
+you?" says Kermit. When Colonel Roosevelt heard this he was immensely
+interested, not so much in the words of the play, but in the fact that
+Kermit had been represented on the stage--dramatized, as it were.
+
+And as we left for our own camp the colonel called out: "Now, don't
+forget. Just as soon as we all get back to America we'll have a lion
+dinner together at my house."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+ELEPHANT HUNTING NOT AN OCCASION FOR LIGHTSOME MERRYMAKING. FIVE HUNDRED
+THOUSAND ACRES OF FOREST IN WHICH THE KENIA ELEPHANT LIVES, WANDERS AND
+BRINGS UP HIS CHILDREN
+
+
+The peril and excitement of elephant hunting can not be realized by any
+one who has known only the big, placid elephants of the circus, or fed
+peanuts to a gentle-eyed pachyderm in the park. To the person thus
+circumscribed in his outlook, the idea of killing an elephant and
+calling it sport is little short of criminal. It would seem like going
+out in the barnyard and slaying a friendly old family horse.
+
+That was my point of view before I went to Africa, but later experiences
+caused the point of view to shift considerably. If any one thinks that
+elephant hunting is an occasion for lightsome merrymaking he had better
+not meet the African elephant in the rough. Most people are acquainted
+with only the Indian elephant, the kind commonly seen in captivity, and
+judge from him that the elephant is a sort of semi-domesticated beast of
+burden, like the camel and the ox. Yet the Indian elephant is about as
+much like his African brother as a tomcat is like a tiger.
+
+[Photograph: The Hyenas Had Feasted Well]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Great Stretches of Dense
+Forest]
+
+[Drawing: _Being Killed by an Elephant Is a Very Mussy Death_]
+
+Many African hunters consider elephant hunting more dangerous than lion,
+rhino, or buffalo hunting, any one of which can hardly be called an
+indoor sport. These are the four animals that are classed as "royal
+game" in game law parlance, and each one when aroused is sufficiently
+diverting to dispel any lassitude produced by the climate. It is wakeful
+sport--hunting these four kinds of game--and in my experience elephant
+hunting is the "most wakefullest" of them all.
+
+In my several months of African hunting I had four different encounters
+with elephants. The first two were on Mount Kenia and the last two were
+on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, near where it merges into the lower slopes
+of Mount Elgon. The first and the fourth experiences were terrifying
+ones, never to be forgotten. An Englishman, if he were to describe them,
+would say "they were rather nasty, you know," which indicates how really
+serious they were. The second and the third experiences were
+interesting, but not particularly dangerous.
+
+Mount Kenia is a great motherly mountain that spreads over an immense
+area and raises its snow-capped peaks over eighteen thousand feet above
+the equator. The lower slopes are as beautiful as a park and are covered
+with the fields and the herds of the prosperous Kikuyus and other
+tribes. Scores of native villages of varying sizes are picturesquely
+planted among the banana groves and wooded valleys on this lower slope,
+each with its local chief, or sultan, and each tribe with its head
+sultan.
+
+In a day's "trek" one meets many sultans with their more or less naked
+retinues, and every one of them spits on his hand, presses it to his
+forehead, and shakes hands with you. It is the form of greeting among
+the Kikuyus, and, in my opinion, might be improved. These people lead a
+happy pastoral life amid surroundings of exceptional beauty. Above the
+cultivated _shambas_, or fields of sweet potatoes and tobacco and sugar
+and groves of bananas, comes a strip of low bush country. It is a mile
+or two wide, scarcely ten feet high, and so dense that nothing but an
+elephant could force its way through the walls of vegetation. Most of
+the bushes are blackberry and are thorny.
+
+[Drawing: _Following the Trail_]
+
+The elephants in their centuries of travel about the slopes have made
+trails through this dense bush, and it is only by following these trails
+that one can reach the upper heights of the mountain. Above the bush
+belt comes the great forest belt, sublimely grand in its hugeness and
+beauty, and above this belt comes the encircling band of bamboo forest
+that reaches up to the timber line. There are probably five hundred
+thousand acres of forest country in which the Kenia elephant may live
+and wander and bring up his children. He has made trails that weave and
+wind through the twilight shades of the forest, and the only ways in
+which a man may penetrate to his haunts are by these ancient trails.
+Mount Kenia, as seen from afar, looks soft and green and easy to stroll
+up, but no man unguided could ever find his way out if once lost in the
+labyrinth of trails that criss-cross in the forest.
+
+For many years the elephants of Kenia have been practically secure from
+the white hunter with his high-powered rifles. Warfare between the
+native tribes on the slopes has been so constant that it was not until
+three or four years ago that it was considered reasonably safe for the
+government to allow hunting parties to invade the south side of the
+mountain. Prior to that time the elephant's most formidable enemies were
+the native hunter, who fought with poisoned spears and built deep pits
+in the trails, pits cleverly concealed with thin strips of bamboo and
+dried leaves, and the ivory hunting poachers. In 1906 the government
+granted permission to Mr. Akeley to enter this hitherto closed district
+to secure specimens for the Field Museum, and even then there was only a
+narrow strip that was free from tribal warfare. It was at that time that
+his party secured seven splendid tuskers, one of which, a
+one-hundred-fifteen-pound tusker shot by Mrs. Akeley, was the largest
+ever killed on Mount Kenia. And it was to this district that Mr. Akeley
+led our _safari_ late in October to try again for elephants on the old
+familiar stamping ground. We pitched our camp in a lovely spot where one
+of his camps had stood three years before, just at the edge of the thick
+bush and on the upper edge of the _shambas_. News travels quickly in
+this country, and in a short time many of his old Kikuyu friends were at
+our camping place. One or two of the old guides were on hand to lead the
+way into elephant haunts and the natives near our camp reported that the
+elephants had been coming down into their fields during the last few
+days. Some had been heard only the day before. So the prospects looked
+most promising, and we started on a little hunt the first afternoon
+after arriving in camp.
+
+[Drawing: _The Old Wanderobo Guide_]
+
+We took one tent and about twenty porters, for when one starts on an
+elephant trail there is no telling how long he will be gone or where he
+may be led. We expected that we would have to climb up through the strip
+of underbrush, and perhaps even as far up as the bamboos, in which event
+we might be gone two or three days. In addition to the porters we had
+our gunbearers and a couple of native guides. One of these was an old
+Wanderobo, or man of the forest, who had spent his life in the solitudes
+of the mountain and was probably more familiar with the trails than any
+other man. He wore a single piece of skin thrown over his shoulders and
+carried a big poisoned elephant spear with a barb of iron that remains
+in the elephant when driven in by the weight of the heavy wooden shaft.
+The barb was now covered with a protective binding of leaves. He led the
+way, silent and mild-eyed and very naked, and the curious little
+skin-tight cap that he wore made him look like an old woman. As we
+proceeded, other natives attached themselves to us as guides, so that by
+the time we were out half an hour there were four or five savages in the
+van.
+
+[Photograph: He Was a Very Important Sultan]
+
+[Photograph: Saying Good-bye to Colonel Roosevelt]
+
+[Photograph: A Visiting Delegation of Kikuyus]
+
+No words can convey to the imagination the density of that first strip
+of bush. It was like walking between solid walls of vegetation, matted
+and tangled and bright with half-ripened blackberries. The walls were
+too high to see over except as occasionally we could catch glimpses of
+tree-tops somewhere ahead. We wound in and out along the tortuous path,
+and it was also torture-ous, for the thorn bushes scratched our hands
+and faces and even sent their stickers through the cloth into our knees.
+The effect on the barelegged porters was doubtless much worse.
+
+After a couple of hours of marching in those cañons of vegetation we
+entered the lower edge of the forest and left the underbrush behind. We
+soon struck a fairly fresh elephant trail and for an hour wound in and
+out among the trees, stumbling over "monkey ropes" and gingerly avoiding
+old elephant pits. There were dozens of these, and if it had not been
+for the fact that our old guide carefully piloted us past them I'm
+certain more than one of us would have plunged down on to the sharpened
+stakes at the bottom. Some of the traps were so cleverly concealed that
+only a Wanderobo could detect them. In places the forest was like the
+stately aisles of a great shadowy cathedral, with giant cedars and
+camphor-wood trees rising in towering columns high above where the
+graceful festoons of liana and moss imparted an imposing scene of
+vastness and tropical beauty. In such places the ground was clean and
+springy to the footfall and the impression of a splendid solitude was
+such as one feels in a great deserted cathedral. At times we crossed
+matted and snaky-looking little streams that trickled through the
+decaying vegetation, where the feet of countless elephants had worn deep
+holes far down in the mud. Then, after long and circuitous marching, we
+would find ourselves traversing spots where we had been an hour before.
+
+[Drawing: _Elephant Pits_]
+
+The elephant apparently moves about without much definition of purpose,
+at least when he is idling away his time, and the trail we were
+following led in all directions like a mystic maze. At this time I was
+hopelessly lost, and if left alone could probably never have found my
+way out again. So we quickened our steps lest the guides should get too
+far ahead of us. In those cool depths of the forest, into which only
+occasional shafts of sunlight filtered, the air was cold and damp, so
+much so that even the old Wanderobo got cold. It made me cold to look at
+his thin, old bare legs, but then I suppose his legs were as much
+accustomed to exposure as my hands were, and it's all a matter of
+getting used to it.
+
+Our porters, especially those that were most heavily loaded, were
+falling behind and there was grave danger of losing them. In fact, a
+little later we did lose them. The trail became fresher and, to my
+dismay, led downward again and into that hopeless mass of underbrush
+which at this point extended some distance into the lower levels of the
+forest. We could not see in any direction more than twenty-five
+feet--except above. If our lives had depended on it we could not have
+penetrated the dense matted barriers of vegetation on each side of the
+narrow trail. The bare thought of meeting an elephant in such a place
+sent a cold chill down the back. If he happened to be coming toward us
+our only hope was in killing him before he could charge twenty-five
+feet, and, if we did kill him, to avoid being crushed by his body as it
+plunged forward. Without question it was the worst place in the world to
+encounter an elephant. And I prayed that we might get into more open
+forest before we came up with the ones we were trailing. You can't
+imagine how earnestly we all joined in that prayer.
+
+It was at this unpropitious moment that we heard--startlingly near--the
+sharp crash of a tusk against a tree somewhere just ahead. It was a most
+unwelcome sound. There was no way of determining where the elephant was,
+for we were hemmed in by solid walls of bush and could not have seen an
+elephant ten feet on either side of the narrow trail. We also didn't
+know whether he was coming or going or whether he was on our trail or
+some other one of the maze of trails.
+
+We quickly prepared for the worst. With our three heavy guns we crouched
+in the trail, waiting for the huge bulk of an elephant to loom up before
+us. Then came another thunderous crash to our right--and it seemed
+scarcely fifty yards away. Then a shrill squeal of a startled elephant
+off to our left and still another to the rear. Some elephants had
+evidently just caught our scent, and if the rest of the elephants became
+alarmed and started a stampede through the bush the situation would
+become extremely irksome for a man of quiet-loving tendencies. The
+thought of elephants charging down those narrow trails, perhaps from two
+directions at once, was one that started a copious flow of cold
+perspiration. We waited for several years of intense apprehension. There
+was absolute silence. The elephants also were evidently awaiting further
+developments.
+
+[Photograph: A Clearing in the Forest]
+
+[Photograph: A Kikuyu "Cotillion"]
+
+[Photograph: Kikuyu Women Flailing Grain]
+
+Then we edged slowly onward along the trail, approaching each turning
+with extreme caution and then edging on to the next. Somewhere ahead and
+on two sides of us there were real, live, wild elephants that probably
+were not in a mood to welcome visitors from Chicago. How near they were
+we didn't know--except that the sounds had come from very near,
+certainly not more than a hundred yards--and we hoped that we might go
+safely forward to where the bush would be thin enough to allow us to see
+our surroundings. But there was no clearing. Several times a crash of
+underbrush either ahead or to one side brought us to anxious attention
+with fingers at the trigger guards. At last, after what seemed to be
+hours of nervous tension, we came to a crossing of trails, down which we
+could see in four directions thirty or forty feet. A large tree grew
+near the intersection of the trails, and here we waited within reach of
+its friendly protection. It was much more reassuring than to stand
+poised in a narrow trail with no possibility of sidestepping a charge.
+We waited at the crossing for further sounds of the elephants--waited
+for some time with rifles ready and then gradually relaxed our taut
+nerves. A line of porters with their burdens were huddled in one of the
+trails awaiting developments. I took a picture of the situation and had
+stood my rifle against the tree, and sat down to whisper the situation
+over. All immediate danger seemed to have passed. It seemed to, but it
+hadn't.
+
+[Drawing: _The Porters Came Down the Trail_]
+
+Like a sudden unexpected explosion of a thirteen-inch gun there was a
+thundering crash in the bushes behind the porters, then a perfect
+avalanche of terrified porters, a dropping of bundles, a wild dash for
+the protection of the tree, and a bunch of the most startled white men
+ever seen on Mount Kenia. I reached the tree in two jumps, and three
+would have been a good record. The crashing of bushes and small trees at
+our elbows marked the course of a frenzied or frightened elephant, and
+to our intense relief the sounds diminished as the animal receded. I
+don't think I was ever so frightened in my life. But I had company. I
+didn't monopolize all the fright that was used in those few seconds of
+terror.
+
+We then decided that there was no sane excuse for hunting elephants
+under such conditions. We at least demanded that we ought to see what we
+were hunting rather than blindly stumble through dense bush with
+elephants all around us. So we beat a masterly retreat, not without two
+more serious threats from the hidden elephants. A boy was sent up a tree
+to try to locate the elephants, but even up there it was impossible to
+distinguish anything in the mass of vegetation around. We fired guns to
+frighten away the animals, but at each report there was only a restless
+rustle in the brush that said that they were still there and waiting,
+perhaps as badly scared as we were.
+
+My second elephant experience came the next day.
+
+We started forth again, with a single tent, our guides and gunbearers, a
+cook and a couple of tent boys and twenty porters. This time we politely
+ignored all elephant trails in the dense bush and pushed on through the
+forest. Here it was infinitely better, for one could see some distance
+in all directions. We climbed steadily for a couple of thousand feet,
+always in forest so wild and grand and beautiful as to exceed all dreams
+of what an African forest could be. It more than fulfilled the
+preconceptions of a tropical forest such as you see described in stories
+of the Congo and the Amazon.
+
+The air was cold in the shadows, but pleasant in the little open glades
+that occasionally spread out before us. Once or twice in the heart of
+that overwhelming forest we found little circular clearings so devoid of
+trees as to seem like artificial clearings. Once we found the skull of
+an elephant and scores of times we narrowly escaped the deep elephant
+traps that lay in our paths. Many times we saw evidences of the giant
+forest pig that lives on Mount Kenia and has only once or twice been
+killed by a white man. Sometimes we came to deep ravines with sides that
+led for a hundred feet almost perpendicularly through tangles of
+creepers and bogs of rotted vegetation.
+
+We dragged ourselves up by clinging to vines and monkey ropes. On all
+sides was a solitude so vast as almost to overpower the senses. The
+sounds of bird life seemed only to intensify the effect of solitude.
+Once in a while we came upon evidences of human habitation, little huts
+of twigs and leaves, where the Wanderobo, or man of the forest, lived
+and hunted. Up in some of the trees were thin cylindrical wooden honey
+pots, some of them ages old and some comparatively new. And in the lower
+levels of the forest we saw where the Kikuyu women had come up for
+firewood. For some strange reason the elephants are not afraid of the
+native women and will not be disturbed by the sight of one of them.
+After seeing the women I am not surprised that they feel that way about
+it, but I don't see how they can tell the women from the men. Possibly
+because they know that only the women do such manual labor as to carry
+wood.
+
+In the afternoon we reached the bamboos which lie above the forest belt.
+Here the ground is clean and heavily carpeted with dry bamboo leaves.
+The bamboos grow close together, all seemingly of the same size, and are
+pervaded with a cool, greenish shadow that is almost sunny in comparison
+with the deep, solemn shades of the great forest.
+
+Then we struck a trail. The old Wanderobo guide said it was only an hour
+or so old and that we should soon overtake the elephant. It was
+evidently only one elephant and not a large one. It is fascinating to
+watch an experienced elephant hunter and to see how eloquent the trail
+is to him. A broken twig means something, the blades of grass turned a
+certain way will distinguish the fresh trail from the old one, the
+footprints in the soft earth, the droppings--all tell a definite story
+to him, and he knows when he is drawing down upon his quarry. As we
+proceeded his movements became slower and more cautious, and the
+plodding drudgery of following an elephant trail gave way to suppressed
+excitement.
+
+[Drawing: _It Looked Like the Rear Elevation of a Barn_]
+
+Slower and slower he went, and finally he indicated that only the
+gunbearers and ourselves should continue. The porters were left behind,
+and in single file we moved on tiptoe along the trail. Then he stopped
+and by his attitude said that the quest was ended. The elephant was
+there. One by one we edged forward, and there, thirty yards away, partly
+hidden by slender bamboos, stood a motionless elephant. He seemed to be
+the biggest one I had ever seen. He was quartering, head away from us,
+and we could not see his tusks. If they were big, we were to shoot; if
+not, we were to let him alone. As we watched and waited for his head to
+turn we noticed that his ears began to wave slowly back and forth, like
+the gills of a fish as it breathes. The head slowly and almost
+imperceptibly turned, and Akeley signaled me to shoot. From where I
+stood I could not see the tusks at first, but as his head turned more I
+saw the great white shafts of ivory. The visible ivory was evidently
+about four feet long, and indicated that he carried forty or fifty
+pounds of ivory. Then, quicker than a wink, the great dark mass was
+galvanized into motion. He darted forward, crashing through the bamboo
+as though it had been a bed of reeds, and in five seconds had
+disappeared. For some moments we heard his great form crashing away,
+farther and farther, until it finally died out in the distance.
+
+It was the first wild elephant I had ever seen, and it is photographed
+on my memory so vividly as never to be forgotten. I was more than half
+glad that I had not shot and that he had got away unharmed.
+
+That night we camped in a little circular clearing which the Akeleys
+called "Tembo Circus," for it was near this same clearing that one of
+their large elephants had been killed three years before, and in the
+clearing the skin had been prepared for preservation. All about us
+stretched the vast forest, full of strange night sounds and spectral in
+the darkness. In the morning we awoke in a dense cloud and did not break
+camp until afternoon. Our Kikuyu and Wanderobo guides were sent out with
+promises of liberal backsheesh to find fresh trails, but they returned
+with unfavorable reports, so we marched back to the main camp again.
+
+Thus ended our Kenia elephant experience, for a letter from Colonel
+Roosevelt, asking Mr. Akeley if he could come to Nairobi for a
+conference on their elephant group, led to our departure from the Mount
+Kenia country.
+
+The other two elephant experiences were much more spectacular and
+perhaps are worthy of a separate story.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+NINE DAYS WITHOUT SEEING AN ELEPHANT. THE ROOSEVELT PARTY DEPARTS AND WE
+MARCH FOR THE MOUNTAINS ON OUR BIG ELEPHANT HUNT. THE POLICEMAN OF THE
+PLAINS
+
+
+The Mount Elgon elephants have a very bad reputation. The district is
+remote from government protection and for years the herds have been the
+prey of Swahili and Arab ivory hunters, as well as poachers of all sorts
+who have come over the Uganda border or down from the savage Turkana and
+Suk countries on the north. As a natural consequence of this
+unrestricted poaching the herds have been hunted and harassed so much
+that most of the large bull elephants with big ivory have been killed,
+leaving for the greater part big herds of cows and young elephants made
+savage and vicious by their persecution. Elephant hunters who have
+conscientiously hunted the district bring in reports of having seen
+herds of several hundred elephants, most of which were cows and calves,
+and of having seen no bulls of large size.
+
+The government game license permits the holder to kill two elephants,
+the ivory of each to be at least sixty pounds. This means a fairly large
+elephant and may be either a bull or a cow. The cow ivory, however,
+rarely reaches that weight and consequently the bulls are the ones the
+hunters are after and the ones that have gradually been so greatly
+reduced in numbers. The elephants of this district roam the slopes of
+the mountains and often make long swinging trips out in the broad
+stretches of the Guas Ngishu Plateau to the eastward, in all a district
+probably fifty miles wide by sixty or seventy miles long.
+
+The hunters who invade this section usually march north from the
+railroad at a point near Victoria Nyanza, turn westward at a little
+settlement called Sergoi, and continue in that direction until they
+reach the Nzoia River. Naturally, these names will mean nothing to one
+not familiar with the country, but perhaps by saying that the trip means
+at least ten days of steady marching in a remote and unsettled country,
+far from sources of supplies, I will be able to convey a faint idea of
+how hard it is to reach the elephant country.
+
+Our purpose in making this long trip of ten weeks or more was to try for
+black-maned lion on the high plateau and to collect elephants for the
+group that Mr. Akeley is preparing for the American Museum of Natural
+History. The government gave him a special permit to collect such
+elephants as he would require, two cows, a calf, a young bull, and, if
+possible, two large bulls. One or more of these were to be killed by
+Colonel Roosevelt and one by myself. It seemed promising that the cows,
+calf, and young bull could be got on Mount Elgon, but the likelihood of
+getting the big bulls was far from encouraging. Lieutenant-Governor
+Jackson thought we might be successful if we directed our efforts to the
+southeastern slopes of the mountain and avoided the northeastern slopes
+along the River Turkwel, which had been hunted a good deal by sportsmen
+and poachers. If we were unable to get the big bulls on Elgon it might
+be necessary to make a special trip into Uganda for them. However, we
+determined to try, and try we did, through eight weeks of hard work and
+wonderful experiences in that remote district.
+
+[Photograph: A Kikuyu Spearman]
+
+[Photograph: The Porters Like Elephant Meat]
+
+[Photograph: My Masai Sais and Gunbearers]
+
+At Sergoi, the very outpost of crude civilization, we were warned not to
+go up the southern side of the mountain on account of the natives that
+live there. We were told that they were inclined to be troublesome. We
+met Captain Ashton and Captain Black coming out after six weeks on the
+northern slopes. They reported seeing big herds, but mostly cows and
+calves. At Sergoi we also received word from Colonel Roosevelt and at
+once marched to the Nzoia River, where we met him.
+
+During our march we saw no elephants, but as we neared the river there
+were fresh signs of elephant along the trail. It is strikingly
+indicative of the "Roosevelt luck" that he saw, on the morning we met
+him, the only elephants that he had seen in the district, and that
+within twenty-four hours from that time he had killed three elephants
+and Kermit one. Of this number two cows killed by Colonel Roosevelt were
+satisfactory for the group, and also the calf killed by his son, Kermit.
+This left one young bull and two large bulls still to be secured, and to
+that end we addressed our efforts during the succeeding weeks.
+
+For nine days we hunted the Nzoia River region, but without seeing an
+elephant. There were kongoni, zebra, topi, waterbuck, wart-hogs,
+reedbuck, oribi, eland, and Uganda cob, but scour the country as we
+would, we saw no sign of elephant except the broad trails in the grass
+and the countless evidences that they had been in the region some time
+before. The country was beautiful and wholesome. There was lots of game
+for our table, from the most delicious grouse to the oribi, whose meat
+is the tenderest I have ever eaten. There were ducks and geese and
+Kavirondo crane; and sometimes eland, as fine in flavor as that of the
+prize steer of the fat-stock show. Then there were reedbuck and cob,
+both of which are very good to eat. So our tins of camp pie and kippered
+herring and ox tongue remained unopened and we lived as we never had
+before.
+
+When the day's hunt was over the sun in a splendid effort painted such
+sublime sunsets above Mount Elgon as I had never dreamed of. And the
+music of hundreds of African birds along the river's edge greeted us
+with the cool, delightful dawn. Purely from an æsthetic standpoint, our
+days on the Nzoia were ones never to be forgotten, while from the
+standpoint of the man who loves to see wild game and doesn't care much
+about killing it, the bright, clear days on the Nzoia were memorable
+ones. The Roosevelt party went its way back to civilization; the
+Spaniards, De la Huerta and the Duke of Peñaranda, came and made a
+flying trip up the mountain for elephant, then returned and went their
+way. The young Baron Rothschild came on to the plateau for a couple of
+weeks and then disappeared. And still we lingered on, happy, healthy,
+generally hungry, and intoxicated with the languorous murmur of Africa.
+
+[Drawing: _With Sharp Stakes in Them_]
+
+Then we marched for the mountain on our big elephant hunt. The details
+of those twelve days of adventuring in districts, some of which were
+probably never traversed before by white men, our experiences with the
+natives, our climb up the side of the mountain and our camp in the
+crater; our icy mornings, our ascent of the highest peak, and our
+explorations of the ancient homes of the cave-dwellers--all are part of
+a remarkable series of events that have nothing to do with an elephant
+story. In the forests we saw numberless old elephant pits, and on the
+grassy slopes there were mazes of elephants' trails, some so big that
+hundreds of elephants must have moved along them. But we saw no
+elephants. We scanned the hills for miles and tramped for days in ideal
+elephant country, but our quest was all in vain. Then our food supplies
+ran low, our last bullock was killed, and we hurried back to the base
+camp on the river, a hungry, tired band of a hundred and twenty men.
+
+The matter of provisioning a large number of porters far from the
+railroad is a serious one. In addition to carrying the _safari_ outfit,
+the porters must carry their _posho_, or cornmeal ration, and it is
+impossible for them to carry more than a limited number of days'
+rations. So the farther one gets from the base of supplies the more
+difficult it is to move, and a relay system must be employed. Porters
+must be sent back for food, often six or eight days; or else a bullock
+wagon must be used for that purpose. In our _safari_ we used two wagons,
+drawn by thirty oxen, to supplement the porters in keeping up food
+supplies, and even by so doing there were times when rations ran low. In
+such times we would shoot game for them, either kongoni or zebra, both
+of which are considered great delicacies by the black man.
+
+However, this is not telling about my memorable elephant experiences in
+the Guas Ngishu Plateau.
+
+We got back to the Nzoia River on December third. On the fifteenth,
+after many more unsuccessful attempts to get in touch with a herd, Mr.
+Akeley and I resolved to try the mountain again. We thought that perhaps
+the elephants might have moved northward along the eastern slope, and so
+we thought we'd push clear up to the Turkwel River and find out beyond
+question. We outfitted for an eight days' march, carried only one tent
+and a small number of good porters. Only the absolute necessaries were
+taken, for we expected to move fast and hard. The first day we marched
+eight hours, crossed the Nzoia River, and by a curious chance at once
+struck a fresh trail which was diagnosed as being only a few hours old.
+The bark torn from trees was fresh and still moist; the leaves of the
+branches that had been broken off as the elephants fed along the way
+were still unwithered, and the flowers that had been crushed down by the
+great feet of the herd had lost little of their freshness and fragrance.
+
+The trail led us first in one direction, then in another; sometimes it
+was a big trail that plowed through the long grass like a river, with
+little tributaries branching in and out where the individual members of
+the herd had swerved out of the main channel to feed by the way. And
+sometimes when all the herd were feeding, the main trail disappeared, to
+be replaced by a maze of lesser trails leading in all directions. But by
+the skilful tracking of our gunbearers the main trail would be found
+again some distance onward. We followed the trail for hours, and then,
+night coming on, we went into camp near a small stream, choked with
+luxuriant vegetation. Akeley thought he heard a faint squeal of an
+elephant far off, and while the porters made camp we went on for a mile
+or so to investigate. But no further sounds indicated the proximity of
+the herd.
+
+Early the next morning we took up the trail again, and in less than an
+hour my Masai sais pointed off to a distant slope a couple of miles
+away, where a black line appeared. It looked like an outcropping of
+rock. Akeley looked at it and exclaimed, "By George, I believe he's got
+them!" and a moment later, after he had directed his glasses on the
+distant spot, he said briskly, "That's right, they're over there." And
+so, for the first time, after having scanned suspicious-looking spots in
+the landscape for weeks and always with disappointment, I saw a herd of
+real live elephants. To the naked eye they looked more like little
+shifting black beetles than anything else, but in the glasses they were
+plainly revealed with swaying bodies and flapping ears and swinging
+trunks.
+
+In elephant hunting the first important thing to consider is the wind,
+for the elephant is very keen-scented and is quick to detect a breath of
+danger in the breeze. Fortunately we had seen them in time. If we had
+gone ahead a few hundred yards they would have got our wind and gone
+away in alarm, but this had not occurred. We could see that they were
+feeding quietly and without the slightest evidence of uneasiness.
+
+[Photograph: Some Kikuyu Belles]
+
+[Photograph: Wanderobo Guides]
+
+We left our horses and the porters under a big tree and told the latter
+to come on if they heard any firing; otherwise, they were to await our
+return. Then, with only our gunbearers and a man carrying Akeley's large
+camera, we circled in a wide detour until we were safely behind the
+elephants. The wind continued favorable, and we cautiously approached
+the brow of a hill near where we had last seen them. They had
+disappeared, but their trail was as easy to follow as an open road.
+Before reaching the brow of the next hill one of the gunbearers was sent
+up a tree to reconnoiter the country beyond.
+
+"_Hapa_," he whispered, as he carefully climbed down and indicated with
+his hand that they were near. Again we swung in a wide circle and came
+over the brow of the next hill. There, four or five hundred yards away,
+was the herd of elephants, standing idly under the low trees that
+studded the opposite slope. There were between forty and fifty of them,
+and from the number of _totos_, or calves, we assumed that many of the
+big ones were cows. We studied the herd for some minutes, estimating the
+ivory and trying in vain to pick out the bulls. There is very little
+difference between the appearance of a cow and a bull elephant when the
+latter has only moderate-sized tusks. Usually the tusks of the male are
+heavier and thicker, but except for this distinction there is very
+little noticeable difference between the two. Of course, an elephant
+with gigantic tusks is at once known to be a bull, but if he has small
+tusks it is a matter of considerable guesswork.
+
+[Drawing: _Two Kongoni on Guard_]
+
+We could not tell which ones of this herd were bulls, but assumed that
+there must surely be several small-sized or young bulls among them. We
+decided to go nearer, knowing that the elephant's eyesight is very poor,
+and with such a favoring wind his sense of smell was useless. It seemed
+amazing that they did not see us as we walked up the slope toward them.
+When a couple of hundred yards away we climbed a tree to study them some
+more. They were in three separate groups, each of which was clustered
+sleepy and motionless under the trees. They had ceased feeding and had
+evidently laid up for their midday rest, although the hour was hardly
+ten in the morning.
+
+From our "observation tower" in the tree we studied the three groups as
+well as we could. So far as we could judge there were at least three
+bulls of medium size, but as we looked those three lazily moved off
+toward the group on the extreme left. At that time we were within about
+a hundred yards of the nearest group with the wind still favorable, and
+except for one thing we might easily have crept up through the grass to
+within thirty or forty yards. Directly between us and the elephants were
+two kongoni, one lying down and the other alert and erect.
+
+[Drawing: _The Policemen of the Plains_]
+
+The kongoni is the policeman of the plains. He is the self-appointed
+guardian of all the other animals, and for some strange, unselfish
+reason, he always does sentinel duty for the others. His eyes are so
+keen that he sees your hat when you appear over the horizon two miles
+away, and from that moment he never loses sight of you. If you approach
+too near he whistles shrilly, and every other animal within several
+hundred yards is on the alert and apprehensive. The kongoni often risks
+his own life to warn other herds of animals of the approach of danger,
+and if I were going to write an animal story I'd use the kongoni as my
+hero. The hunters hate him for the trouble he gives them, but a
+fair-minded man can not help but recognize the heroic, self-sacrificing
+qualities of the big, awkward, vigilant antelope. Why these two
+sentinels had not seen us is still and always will be a mystery, but it
+is certain that they had not.
+
+At the same time we knew that any attempt to approach nearer would alarm
+them and they in turn would sound the shrill tocsin of warning to the
+unsuspecting elephant herd, in which event we might have to track the
+elephants for miles until they settled down again. So we cautiously
+climbed down, retreated below the edge of the hill, and worked our way
+up in the lee of the group farthest to our left in the expectation of
+finding the three bulls. From tree to tree, and in the protection of
+large ant-hills, we moved forward until we were less than fifty yards
+from the elephants. Then we studied them again, but could not locate the
+bulls.
+
+Probably at this time something may have occurred to make the elephants
+nervous. Perhaps the warning cry of a bird or the suspicious rustling of
+our footsteps in the tall grass, but at any rate the herd began to move
+slowly away. Two of the larger groups marched solemnly down the slope
+away from us and the other disappeared among the low scrub trees to our
+right. We followed the two larger groups and soon were again within a
+few yards of them. An ant-hill four or five feet high gave us some
+protection, and over the top of this we watched the enormous animals as
+they stood under the trees ahead of us. While watching these two large
+groups we forgot about the one that had disappeared to the right.
+
+Suddenly one of the gunbearers whispered a warning and we turned to see
+this group only a few yards from us and bearing directly down toward the
+ant-hill where we crouched in the grass. They had not yet seen us, but
+it seemed a miracle that they did not. If one of us had moved in the
+slightest degree they would have charged into us with irresistible
+force. We held our guns and our breath while these big animals, by a
+most fortunate chance, passed by us to the windward of the ant-hill, not
+more than thirty feet away. If they had passed to the leeward side they
+would have got our wind and trouble would have been unavoidable. I took
+a surreptitious snap-shot of them after they had passed by, and for the
+first time in some minutes took a long breath.
+
+Then we circled the herd again and came up to them. They were now
+thoroughly uneasy. They knew that some invisible hostile influence was
+abroad in the land, but they could not locate in which direction it lay.
+We saw the sensitive trunks feeling for the scent and saw the big ears
+moving uneasily back and forth. One large cow with a broken tusk was
+facing us, vaguely conscious that danger lay in that direction. And
+then, by some code of signals known only to the elephant world, the
+greater number of elephants moved off down the slope and up the opposite
+slope. Only the big, aggressive cow and four or five smaller animals
+remained behind as a rear-guard. She stood as she had stood for some
+moments, gazing directly at us and nervously waving her ears and trunk.
+
+[Drawing: _The Rear-guard_]
+
+Akeley climbed to the top of an ant-hill and made some photographs
+showing the big cow and her companions in the foreground, while off on
+the neighboring hillside three distinct groups of elephants were in
+view. The latter were thoroughly alarmed and moved away very swiftly for
+some distance and then came to a pause. The big cow and her attendants
+then moved off, feeling that the retreat had been successfully effected.
+Once more we followed them and came up to them, and then once more we
+were flanked by a number of elephants that had previously disappeared
+over the hill. They had swung around and were returning directly toward
+where we stood, unsuspecting.
+
+We barely had time to fall back to some small bushes, where we waited
+while the flanking party approached. They came almost toward us, and
+when only about fifty feet away I ventured a photograph, feeling that,
+if successful, it would be the closest picture ever made of a herd of
+wild elephants. I used a Verascope, a small stereoscopic French machine
+whose "click" is almost noiseless. The elephants advanced and we huddled
+together with rifles ready in the patch of bushes. It seemed a certainty
+that they would charge, and that if our bullets could not turn them we
+would be completely annihilated. But as yet there was no sign that they
+saw us, or, if they did, they could not distinguish our motionless forms
+from the foliage of the scrub.
+
+At last, the foremost elephant, barely thirty feet from us, came to the
+trail in the grass by which we had retreated when we first saw them. The
+trunk, sweeping ahead of it as if feeling for the scent of danger,
+paused an instant as it reached the trail and then the animal drew back
+sharply as though stung. Then it whirled about and the herd went
+crashing away through the sparse undergrowth. It was a time of the
+utmost nervous tension, and I don't believe the human system could
+undergo a prolonged strain of that severity.
+
+[Drawing: _It Started Back as Though Stung_]
+
+During all this time we had not succeeded in positively locating a bull
+elephant. Of all the forty-four elephants that were visible at any one
+time, there was not one that we could feel safe in identifying as the
+elephant needed for the group. Three more times we stalked the herd to
+very close range, but they were now so restless that nothing could be
+ascertained. So finally we decided to get ahead of them and watch them
+as they passed us, but just as we had reached a point where they were
+approaching, the two kongoni gave a shrill alarm and the entire herd
+made off in tremendous haste. Later, on our way back to camp, we came up
+with one group of six or seven, but they seemed too angry and aggressive
+to take needless chances with, so we watched them a while and then left
+them behind.
+
+During all that day we were with the herd nearly five hours, five hours
+of intense nervous strain, during which time there was never a moment
+when we were not in some danger of discovery. But in spite of the
+aggressive bearing of some of them at one time or another, I had the
+feeling that the elephants would run away from us the instant they
+definitely determined where we were. And it was while laboring under
+this impression that I met my second Mount Elgon herd of elephants and
+learned by bitter experience that the impression was wholly false. But
+that is still another story, the story of being charged five times in
+one day by angry elephants, and how I killed a bull elephant for the
+Akeley group.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+"'TWAS THE DAY BEFORE CHRISTMAS." PHOTOGRAPHING A CHARGING ELEPHANT.
+CORNERING A WOUNDED ELEPHANT IN A RIVER JUNGLE GROWTH. A THRILLING
+CHARGE. HASSAN'S COURAGE.
+
+
+On the night of December the twenty-third I sat out in a boma
+watching for lions. None came and at the first crack of dawn my two
+gunbearers and I crawled out of the tangled mass of thorn branches, and
+prepared to return to camp two miles away. We were expecting my sais to
+arrive with my horse soon after daybreak, and while waiting for him to
+come, and for my gunbearers to get the blankets tied up, I went across
+to a neighboring swamp in the hope of getting a bushbuck. I was about
+three hundred yards from the boma when my attention was drawn to a
+movement in the trees about a quarter of a mile away. I looked and saw
+what I first thought was a herd of zebras coming toward me. They looked
+dark against the faint light of early dawn and seemed surprisingly big.
+Then I realized! They were elephants! I had only my little gun and my
+big double-barreled cordite was at the boma, three hundred yards away.
+Breathlessly I ran for it, fearing that the elephants might cut me off
+before I could reach it. There seemed to be from seven to ten of them,
+but they soon disappeared in the trees, going at a fast swinging walk.
+Hassan, my first gunbearer, stopped to slip a couple of solid shells in
+the gun while I ran to the top of a hill in the hope of catching sight
+of the herd. But they had disappeared entirely. We soon found the trail
+strongly marked in the dew-covered grass. My sais then appeared with my
+horse. He had seen two elephants and they had taken alarm at his scent
+and were rapidly fleeing. So I galloped back to camp to tell the rest of
+the party and to prepare for a systematic pursuit.
+
+After breakfast, with Akeley, Stephenson, Clark and our gunbearers, the
+trail was again picked up where I had left it. It was then a little past
+nine and the elephants had two hours' start of us. Their trail indicated
+that they were moving fast and so we prepared for a long chase. For
+nearly two hours we followed, Akeley tracking with remarkable precision.
+Sometimes the trail was faint and merged with older trails, but by
+looking carefully the fresh trail was kept. Soon we began to see newly
+broken branches from the trees which indicated that the elephants were
+getting quieted down and were beginning to feed. It must have been about
+eleven o'clock when Stephenson saw the herd far across on another slope.
+There were two of the animals distinctly visible and another partly
+visible. They were resting under some of the many acacia trees that
+dappled the slope of the hill. We stopped to examine them with our
+glasses. One seemed to have no tusks, but we finally saw that it had
+very small ones. The other and larger one had one good tusk and one that
+was broken off. After about twenty minutes we left our horses and with
+only our gunbearers moved across toward them, thinking that there must
+be others that we had not yet seen. The wind was bad, sometimes sweeping
+up in our direction through the depression between the two slopes and a
+moment later coming from another direction. At one time the wind blew
+from us directly toward the elephants and we expected to see them take
+alarm and run away. But they did not. We circled around and approached
+them from a better direction and advanced to within a couple of hundred
+yards without being detected. We then stopped for a conference. If there
+was a young bull I was to kill it for the Akeley group; if there was a
+large bull Stephenson was to kill it for himself; if there were only
+cows we were not to shoot unless absolutely necessary. In this event,
+Akeley was to take his camera, and with "Fred," "Jimmy" Clark, and I as
+escorts with our double-barreled cordite rifles, was to advance until he
+could get a photograph that would show an elephant the full size of the
+plate. If the elephants charged we were to yell and try to turn them
+without shooting; if they came on we were to shoot to hurt, but not to
+kill.
+
+Fred was on one side of "Ake," Jimmy on another, and I on Fred's left.
+Thus we slowly moved toward the elephants. A reedbuck was startled out
+of the grass and noisily ran away, giving the alarm. The elephants began
+feeling in the air with their trunks and their ears began to wave
+uneasily. Finally they turned and seemed about to go away. Then Fred
+saw, a short distance to the right, some more elephants that had
+previously been hidden by the trees. We both whispered to Ake to stop,
+but he either did not hear us on account of his heavy sun hat or else
+was too intent upon the elephants in front to heed.
+
+[Photograph: A Nandi Spearman]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce In the Deep Jungle Growth]
+
+[Photograph: As the Elephant Fell]
+
+"Ake," whispered Fred, "there's a good bull over there with good tusks.
+Wait a minute." But Ake, camera in position, continued to advance and so
+we followed. The elephants, a big cow and a half-grown one, were now
+facing us with ears wide spread. They looked very nasty. I thought they
+would turn and run away and was not uneasy about the outcome. But to my
+great surprise they started toward us, first slowly and then at a rapid
+trot, steadily gaining in swiftness. It was a real charge and we yelled
+to scare them off. The big cow was in the lead and she had not the
+slightest intention of being scared. Her one idea was to annihilate us.
+We raised our rifles and continued to yell, but on she rushed. She was
+only thirty yards away when Jimmy fired, Fred fired, and then I. The
+huge animal sank on her four knees and the half-grown one turned off and
+stopped, confused and angry. Akeley had got a splendid photograph of the
+charging cow and now he took one of the smaller beast before we
+approached the cow. Upon our advance the smaller one ran away but the
+big cow never moved again. She was stone dead. The three bullets had
+struck her, Jimmy's high as she was head on, Fred's between the eye and
+ear as she swung, and mine just behind the orifice of the ear as the
+head was still further swung by the shock of Fred's bullet. The elephant
+rested on her four knees in an upright position, quite lifelike in
+appearance. The small elephant ran off toward those that we had seen on
+our right. I suggested that we immediately follow the herd in the hope
+that a young bull might be found among them. So off we went and in a few
+moments we saw them to our right, apparently returning to where the cow
+had been killed. It is entirely likely that the big broken-tusked cow
+was going back to make trouble for us. Colonel Roosevelt had a similar
+experience with a bull elephant that returned and charged the hunters as
+they were standing about one that they had just killed.
+
+[Drawing: _They Whirled Around_]
+
+As the elephants moved along slowly we paralleled them and studied them
+as well as we could. One was the big cow with the one broken and one
+good tusk. She was leading the group, and was doubtless a vicious
+animal. She was an enormous beast, probably over eleven feet in height.
+Another was the half-grown elephant, then a smaller one, and lastly a
+good-sized elephant with two fairly good tusks. We tried to determine
+the sex of this last one, I hoping that it was a bull, but fearing
+otherwise. Ake thought it was a cow with tusks about twelve or fourteen
+inches long, but the fact that its breasts showed no signs of milk
+fullness led me to hope that it was a young bull, and I determined to
+act on that supposition. I at once advanced with my big gun in
+readiness. The two largest elephants at the same moment whirled around
+and started swiftly toward us. I rested my gun against the side of a
+small tree and after their onward rush had brought them within fifty
+yards I fired as Ake suggested, "just between the eye and ear." The
+animal swerved but did not fall. Akeley and Stephenson fired at the big
+cow and under the shock of their heavy shells she dropped to her knees,
+then sprang up and came on again. Once more they shot and she again went
+down on her knees, but got up, shaking her head and turned a little to
+one side. Stephenson started to shoot her again, but Ake shouted, "Don't
+shoot her again. She's got enough." Mr. Stephenson followed her for some
+distance and decided that she was going to recover, and so came back. In
+the meantime my elephant, with the two smaller ones, was moving off to
+the left, and with my small rifle I fired at its backbone, the only
+vulnerable spot visible. A spurt of dust rose, but the elephant did not
+stop. So, accompanied by Hassan and Sulimani, my two gunbearers, I
+started after the wounded elephant and the two younger ones. The big one
+was moving slowly, as though badly wounded. The wind was bad, so we
+circled around to head them off and in doing so completely lost them.
+Presently we struck their trail and followed them by the blood-stains on
+the grass.
+
+After some minutes we saw them moving along in the tall grass near the
+Nzoia River. Again we swiftly circled to head them off before they could
+cross the river, but when we reached a point where they had last been
+seen they had disappeared in the dense tangle of trees and high reeds
+that grew at the river's edge. We thought they would cross the river, so
+we rushed after them. Suddenly Hassan yelled "Here they come!" and,
+ahead of us, came the large elephant, its head rising from above the sea
+of grass like the bow of a battleship bearing rapidly down upon us. The
+two smaller ones were almost invisible, only the back of one appearing
+above the reeds. We were out in the open and the situation looked
+decidedly dangerous. I hastily drew a bead on the big one's forehead,
+fired, but it didn't stop. There was barely time for us to get out of
+the way. I ran sideways toward a little mound that furnished some
+protection, while Hassan, with a coolness and courage that I both
+admired and envied, stood still until the big elephant was within ten
+feet of him and then leaped to one side as the three beasts swept by
+him, carried onward by the impetus of their mad rush. As the big one
+passed it made a vicious swing at him with its trunk.
+
+[Photograph: Bow On]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Bull Elephant]
+
+[Photograph: Cooking Elephant Meat]
+
+Fortunately the elephants continued in their course and we followed them
+with my big rifle again reloaded and ready. Once more they turned in
+toward the river and were completely swallowed up in the tall reeds. We
+again waded in after them and had gone only a few yards when we once
+more saw the angry head of the big one looming up as it came toward us.
+I fired point-blank at the base of the trunk and the beast stopped
+suddenly. Then it slowly turned and as it was about to disappear in the
+tall elephant grass again I fired at its backbone. The huge bulk
+collapsed and disappeared, buried in the reeds. Hassan yelled that it
+was dead, but we couldn't see for the grass. The situation now was
+perilous in the extreme. The river made a sharp bend at this point like
+an incomplete letter O, with a narrow neck of land through which the
+elephants had passed when I had shot. At the narrow neck it was about a
+hundred feet across while the depth of the "O" was about three hundred
+feet and the width about two hundred and fifty feet. This small
+peninsula was matted with a jungle growth of high grass and reeds six or
+eight feet tall, while the edges of the river were thickly wooded with
+small trees tangled together and interlacing their branches over the
+narrow but deep waters of the Nzoia.
+
+[Drawing: _Awaiting the Charge_]
+
+Down in the jungle depths of this peninsula there was a violent
+commotion among the low branches of these trees, an indication that the
+animal was not dead, but was thrashing madly about as if desperately
+wounded. Hassan said it was the young elephant and that the older one
+was dead, but this could not be determined without pushing on through
+the reeds until we would be almost upon them. This course seemed too
+dangerous to try.
+
+The river at this point was absolutely impassable for animals. The banks
+were ten feet high and perpendicular. The water was perhaps five or six
+feet deep and the width of the swift stream not over twenty or thirty
+feet. The trees had interlaced their roots and branches across the river
+and in the water. No animal, not a tree climber, could possibly cross
+the stream on account of the straight up and down banks.
+
+So after a time we crept along through the grass at the edge of the
+stream until we reached a point probably forty yards from where the
+elephants doubtless were, although quite hidden from our view. There was
+still a tremendous threshing in the low branches of the trees and in
+order to see the animals we had to creep cautiously across the peninsula
+to a point about half-way, where a large, rotten, dead tree stood. This
+gave us cover and from its screen we could see the three elephants, only
+fifteen yards away. The head of the big one was still up and it was
+turned directly at us. It was so close and so big that the effect was
+terrifying.
+
+"_Mkubwa_," whispered Sulimani, and that means "big." So the big
+elephant, instead of being dead, was still alive, with an impassable
+river at its feet on one side, a dense tangle of trees on two other
+sides, and with a narrow open aisle between it and ourselves. The two
+smaller elephants were at its side. To see to fire I had to step out
+from the tree and expose myself, and as I stepped out the wounded beast
+saw me and reared its head as if to make a final rush. I fired
+point-blank; it swung around and a second shot sent it down. Hassan
+grabbed my arm and told me to hurry back before the two smaller
+elephants charged. If they did so it might be necessary to shoot them,
+which we didn't want to do. So we ran swiftly back to the edge of the
+river and waited. But all was quiet, and after a time we climbed across
+the river on the interlacing branches, circled around to where the
+elephants were visible just across the stream and scared the two smaller
+ones away. Once more we swung across from branch to branch over the
+swift waters of the river and reached the other bank where lay the
+mountainous bulk of the dead elephant. It was a young bull about eight
+feet high and with two well-shaped tusks twenty-two inches long in the
+open, or approximately thirty-eight inches in all.
+
+Sulimani was sent to notify Mr. Akeley and Mr. Clark, and after a long
+search found them, and together they arrived a couple of hours later,
+followed by gunbearers and saises. Mr. Stephenson had gone back to camp
+to see that salt and supplies, with one tent, were sent out.
+
+Then began the work of measuring the elephant, a work that must be done
+most thoroughly when the trophy is to be mounted entire. There were
+dozens of measurements of every part of the body, enough to make a dress
+for a woman, and then came the skinning, a prodigious task that took all
+of the late afternoon and evening. We investigated the position of an
+elephant's heart which Kermit Roosevelt had said was up in the upper
+third or at the top of the second third of the body, a spot which must
+be reached by a shot directed through the point of the ear as it lay
+back. As a matter of fact, an elephant's heart lies against the brisket,
+about ten or eleven inches from the bottom of the breast. A broadside
+shot through the front leg at the elbow would penetrate the heart.
+
+At nine o'clock, Christmas Eve, the tent arrived and was soon put up in
+the jungle of high grass at the middle of the little peninsula. A more
+African scene can not be imagined. The porter's fires, over each of
+which sticks spitted with elephant meat _en brochette_ were cooking,
+imparted a weird look to the river jungle grass and spectral trees.
+
+At ten o'clock we had our dinner and at eleven we put on our pajamas and
+with the camp-fire burning before the tent and the armed askaris pacing
+back and forth, gave ourselves up to lazy talk, then meditation and then
+sound sleep.
+
+It was a wonderful day--one always to be remembered.
+
+The next day, Christmas, came without the usual customs of Christmas
+morn. In the forenoon we stuck with the bull elephant, getting its skin
+and bones ready for transportation back to camp; and in the afternoon
+came the work of saving the skull and part of the skin of the cow
+elephant. The porters must have thought the day a wonderful one, for
+they ate and gorged on elephant meat until they could hardly move.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+IN THE SWAMPS ON THE GUAS NGISHU. BEATING FOR LIONS WE CAME UPON A
+STRANGE AND FASCINATING WILD BEAST, WHICH BECAME ATTACHED TO OUR PARTY.
+THE LITTLE WANDEROBO DOG
+
+
+One of the most exciting phases of African hunting is the beating of
+swamps for lion. A long skirmish line of native porters is sent in at
+one end of the swamp and, like a gigantic comb, sweeps every live thing
+ahead of it as it advances through the reeds. All kinds of swamp life
+are stirred into action, and a fairly large swamp will yield forth the
+contents of a pretty respectable menagerie. Sometimes a hyena or two
+will be flushed and once in a while a lion will be driven out.
+
+It is the constant expectation of the last-named animal that gives such
+keen and long sustained interest to the work of beating a swamp. One
+never knows what to expect. A suspicious stir in the reeds may mean a
+lion or only a hyena; an enormous crashing may sound like a herd of
+elephants, but finally resolve itself into a badly frightened reedbuck.
+Most of the time you expect reedbuck, but all the time you have to be
+ready for lion. As a general thing a lion will slink along in the reeds
+ahead of the beaters and not reveal himself until he is driven to the
+end of the cover. Then he will grunt warningly or show an ear or a
+lashing tail above the reeds, and instantly every one is in a state of
+intense expectancy. What the next move will be no one knows, but it is
+more than likely to be something of a supremely dramatic sort.
+
+One day we were beating swamps on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. Lions seemed
+to be numerous in that district. Two days before I had killed two lions
+near by, and during the morning Stephenson and I had each killed a
+lioness in the same line of marshy reed beds. We now intended advancing
+to the next large swamp of the chain and see whether a large,
+black-maned lion might not be routed out.
+
+Conditions seemed propitious, for in this selfsame swamp Colonel
+Roosevelt had seen the best lion of his trip some weeks before. Perhaps
+the lion might still be there.
+
+The campaign was planned with great thoroughness. Forty or fifty porters
+were formed into the customary skirmish line and on each side we
+paralleled the beaters with our rifles. At the word of command the
+column began to advance and the interest reached a fever heat. The swamp
+was five or six hundred yards long, and for the first three hundred
+yards nothing of a thrilling sort occurred. The shouts of the beaters
+blended into a rhythmic, melodious chant and the swish of their sticks
+as they thrashed the reeds was enough to make even the king of beasts
+apprehensive.
+
+[Photograph: Abdi, the Somali Head-man]
+
+[Photograph: Along the Nzoia River]
+
+[Photograph: Beating a Swamp for Lions]
+
+Over on my side of the swamp there was a wide extension of dry reeds and
+bushes through which I was obliged to go in order to keep in touch with
+the skirmish line of porters. We had got three-quarters the full length
+of the swamp and any moment might reasonably expect to hear from a lion
+if there was one ahead of us. Every rifle was at readiness and the
+porters were advancing less impetuously. In fact, they were pretending
+to go forward without doing so.
+
+Suddenly a wild shout from a porter near by, then a hurried retreat of
+other porters, and then a cautious advance gave sign that something
+desperate was about to happen. We caught a glimpse of reeds moving about
+and then saw something crouched in the grass beneath. Two ears were
+finally distinguished among the tangle of rushes, and there was no
+further doubt about it. It was not a lion. It wasn't even a hyena.
+
+It was a little dog. His presence in the middle of that swamp was about
+as logical as if he had been a musk-ox or a walrus. However, there he
+was, gazing up at us from the bulrushes, with mild, friendly eyes and a
+little tail that was poised for wagging at the slightest provocation. He
+was instantly christened "Moses" for obvious reasons. Later the name was
+changed to Mosina, also for obvious reasons.
+
+After the line of porters had regained their composure the lion beat
+continued, but no lion appeared. The sum total of the wild beasts
+yielded by that promising swamp was one (1) little black and tan dog
+with white feet.
+
+[Drawing: _It Was Not a Lion_]
+
+Some of our genealogical experts addressed themselves to the task of
+figuring out the why and wherefore of little Mosina and what in the
+world she was doing out in a lion and leopard infested place. Leopards
+in particular are fond of dogs, not the way you and I are fond of them,
+but in quite a different way. A leopard, so it is said, prefers a dog to
+any other food and will take daring chances in an effort to secure one
+for breakfast, dinner, or supper. Therefore, how little Mosina escaped
+so long is a mystery yet unsolved.
+
+The experts decided after a thorough consideration of the case, viewing
+it from all possible angles, that the little dog was a Wanderobo dog.
+The Wanderobo are natives who live solely by hunting and generally have
+the most primitive sort of a grass hut at the edge of a swamp or deep in
+the solitudes of the forest. They put rude honey boxes up in the trees
+to serve as beehives, and it is from this honey and from the game that
+they kill with their bows and arrows and traps and spears that they
+manage to eke out a meager living.
+
+Like all true hunters, they keep dogs, and it is more than likely that
+little Mosina was the ex-property of some wild-eyed, naked Wanderobo who
+lived in the swamp. When our great crowd of noisy beaters appeared at
+the other end of the swamp the Wanderobo had doubtless crawled out of
+his hole and made off for the nearest tall grass. In going he had left
+behind Mosina as a rear-guard to cover his retreat or to stay the
+invaders' advance until he could reach the nearest spot available to a
+hasty man.
+
+So we adopted this theory as to why Mosina was in the bulrushes, and in
+honor of her Wanderobo associations we again changed her name to "Little
+Wanderobo Dog." So far as I know, she is the only dog in history who has
+had three separate and distinct names within two hours. Of course, there
+are people who have called dogs more than three different names in much
+less time, but they were not Christian names. One of the bachelor
+members of the committee, who is known to be a woman-hater, conferred
+the honorary title of the pronoun "he" on Little Wanderobo Dog, and she
+has been "he" ever since. But not without a bitter fight by those of the
+committee who think the pronoun "she" is infinitely more to be admired.
+
+Little Wanderobo Dog did not wait to be adopted. He adopted us, but not
+ostentatiously at first--just a friendly wag here and there to show that
+he had at last found what he was looking for. By degrees he became more
+friendly and genial, so that at the end of an hour he was thoroughly one
+of us.
+
+I have never seen a milder-eyed dog than Little Wanderobo. Innocence and
+guilelessness struggled for supremacy, with "confidence in strangers" a
+close third. You couldn't help liking him, for with those meek and
+gentle eyes, together with manners above reproach, he simply walked into
+your heart and made himself at home.
+
+I think that we were a good deal of a surprise to him. In all his short
+young life he had probably never known anything but kicks and cuffs.
+When he met a stranger he naturally expected to have something thrown at
+him, or to have a stubby toe or hard sandal projected into his side.
+Imagine his wonderment to find people who actually petted him and played
+with him. At first he didn't know how to play, but it was amazing to see
+how fast he learned. He was ready to play with any and all comers at any
+and all times. You could arouse him from a deep slumber and he would be
+ready to engage in any form of gaiety at a second's notice.
+
+They talk about "charm." Some people have it to a wonderful degree. You
+like them the minute you meet them, and often don't really know why.
+Perhaps because you simply can't help it. Well, that was the chief
+characteristic of Little Wanderobo Dog. He had more charm than anything
+I've ever met, and so it is only natural that he should have walked into
+our affections in the most natural, unaffected sort of way.
+
+I don't know what he thought of us, but I really believe that he thought
+he had gone to Heaven. We fed him and played with him, and finally he
+gained a little assurance, and actually barked. He barked at one of our
+roosters, and then we knew that he considered himself past the probation
+stage. He had confidence enough to assert himself in a series of lusty
+barks without fearing a hostile boot or an angry shout. The first time
+he barked we all rushed out of our tents in wonder and admiration. It
+was the most important event of the day, and it caused a great deal of
+talk of a friendly nature.
+
+There was one umbrageous cloud on Little Wanderobo Dog's horizon,
+however--a cloud that he soon learned to evade. The Mohammedans didn't
+like him. It is a part of their creed to hate dogs almost as much as
+pork, and to be touched by a dog means many prayers to Allah to wipe
+away the stain of contact. But Little Wanderobo Dog was not conversant
+with the Mohammedan creed at first, and in his gladness and joy of life
+he embraced everybody in the waves of affection and friendliness that
+radiated from him like a golden aura.
+
+The Somali gunbearers were disciples of Allah, and they began to kick at
+him before he was within eight feet of them. Two of the tent boys were
+also Mohammedans, but they had to be more circumspect in their
+hostility. Whenever Little Wanderobo Dog came around they would edge
+away, which gave the former a certain sense of importance because it was
+flattering to have a number of grown-up men fear him so much. Then there
+were a number of the porters who were Mohammedans of a sort, but these
+were wont to say, "O, what is a creed among friends?"
+
+It was quite cold up on the plateau at night. Sometimes the wind swept
+down from the distant fringe of mountains and shook the tents until the
+tent pegs jumped out of the ground. The night guard would pile more wood
+on the big central camp-fire near our tents and the porters, in their
+eighteen or twenty little tents, would huddle closer together for
+warmth. They were nights for at least three blankets, and even four were
+not too many.
+
+Consequently Little Wanderobo Dog was confronted by the necessity of
+adopting a place to sleep where he would be safe from those sharp arrows
+of the north wind that swept across the high stretches of the plateau.
+So he ingratiated himself into my tent with many friendly wags of his
+tail and a countenance of such benign faith in human nature that he was
+allowed to remain. At many times in the night I was awakened and I knew
+that Little Wanderobo Dog was dreaming about some wicked swamp ogre that
+was trying to kick him.
+
+At first he was not a silent sleeper, but later on these awful
+nightmares came with less frequency and I presume his dreams took on a
+more beatific character. As a watch-dog I don't believe he had great
+value, because of his readiness to make friends with anything and
+anybody. If a leopard had come into the tent he would have said, "Excuse
+me, but I think you are in the wrong place," but he would never have
+barked or conducted himself in an ungentlemanly way.
+
+One could never tell what was likely to come into one's tent at night,
+even with armed askaris patrolling the camp all night long. One cold
+night, before Little Wanderobo Dog had come to live with us, I was
+awakened by a curious rustle of the tent flaps. I listened and then
+watched the tent flap for some moments, thinking that the wind might
+have been responsible. But there was no wind and it seemed beyond doubt
+that some animal had entered.
+
+For a long time I listened, but could hear nothing; and yet at the same
+time I had a positive conviction that I was not alone in the tent. I
+wondered if it could be a leopard, or some small member of the cat
+tribe. I knew that it wasn't a dog, for there were no dogs anywhere in
+the vicinity of the camp. As the minutes went by without any hostile
+move from the darkness, I decided to let whatever it was stay until it
+got ready to depart. So I went to sleep.
+
+Once more in the night I was awakened by a noise in the tent and as
+nearly as I could diagnose the situation, the noise came from under my
+cot. But, I reasoned, if the animal is there, it's behaving itself and
+if it were on mischief bent it would have transacted its business long
+before. So I went to sleep again.
+
+Just at dawn the clarion crow of a rooster came from under my bed. It
+was one of the roosters the cook had bought from a Boer settler and had
+come in to escape the coldness of the night air without. It was a most
+agreeable surprise, for there was a homelike sound in the crow of the
+rooster that was pleasantly reminiscent of the banks of the Wabash far
+away.
+
+After Little Wanderobo Dog became "acclimated" to the warm and friendly
+atmosphere of hospitality of the camp, he began to show evidences of
+tact and diplomacy. He bestowed his attentions, with unerring
+impartiality to all of us. In the evening, and frequently during the
+day, he would pay ceremonial visits to each of the four tents of the
+_msungu_, as the white people are called. First he would approach the
+threshold of one tent, cock an inquiring ear at the occupant, and upon
+receiving the customary sign of welcome would wag himself in and pay his
+respects. After a short call he would wag his way out and call at the
+next tent, where the same performance was repeated.
+
+[Drawing: _A Ceremonial Call_]
+
+He never burst into a place like a cyclone of happiness, but rather, he
+sort of oozed in and oozed out, his mild brown eyes brimming with
+gentleness and his tail, that eloquent insignia of canine gladness,
+wigwagging messages of good cheer.
+
+In one of the tents of the _msungu_ there was a pet monkey. It had been
+captured down on the Tana River months before and at first was wild and
+vicious. As time went by it lost much of its wildness and to those it
+liked was affectionate and friendly. To all others it presented variable
+moods, sometimes friendly and sometimes unexpectedly and unreasonably
+hostile. We feared that Little Wanderobo Dog would have some bad moments
+with the little Tana River monkey, and their first meeting was awaited
+with keen interest. We thought the monkey would scratch all the
+gentleness out of the Little Wanderobo Dog's eyes and that the two
+animals would become bitter enemies.
+
+But nothing of the sort happened. Little Wanderobo Dog managed the
+matter with rare tact. He succeeded in slowly overcoming the monkey's
+prejudices, then in inspiring confidence, and finally in establishing
+play relations. It was worth a good deal to see the dog and monkey
+playing together, the latter scampering down from his tent-pole aery,
+leaping on the dog, and scampering hurriedly over the latter, with a
+quick retreat to the invulnerable heights of the tent-pole. Little
+Wanderobo Dog would allow the monkey to roam at will over his features
+and anatomy, thereby showing tolerance which I thought impossible for
+any animal to show. After Little Wanderobo Dog had paid his devoirs to
+his host, which he did each day with great punctiliousness, he would
+then retire to some sunny spot and enjoy his siesta. He was great on
+siestas and usually had several each day.
+
+[Drawing: _The Entente Cordiale_]
+
+In time he learned to distinguish between Mohammedans and other
+dark-complexioned people and held himself aloof from the former, thereby
+escaping any humiliating races with the heavy boots of the gunbearers
+and other followers of Allah. He made friends with little Ali, the
+monkey's valet, a small Swahili boy who looked like a chocolate drop in
+color, and like a tooth-powder ad in disposition. It was Ali's duty to
+carry the monkey on our marches.
+
+The little gray monkey, with its venerable looking black face fringed
+with a sunburst of white hair, would be tied to an old umbrella of the
+Sairey Gamp pattern, and would sit upon it as the small boy carried it
+along the trails on his shoulder, like a musket. Sometimes when the sun
+was strong the umbrella would be raised to shield the monkey's eyes,
+which could not stand the fierce glare incident to a long march upon
+sun-baked trails. At such times the monkey, who rejoiced in the brief
+name of J.T. Jr.--the same being emblazoned on the little silver collar
+around its neck--at such times the monkey would scamper from shoulder to
+shoulder of the small boy, with occasional excursions up in the woolly
+kinks of the heights above. It was a funny picture and one that never
+failed to amuse those who watched it.
+
+Well, Little Wanderobo Dog, by some prescient instinct hardly to be
+expected in one brought up in a swamp, decided that little Ali and the
+monkey were to be his "companions of the march." So, when the tents were
+struck and Abdi, the head-man, shouted "_Funga nizigo yaka!_" and the
+tented city of yesterday became a scattered heap of sixty-pound porters'
+loads, Little Wanderobo would seek out Ali and prepare to bear him
+company during the long stretches of the march. And then when the long
+line of horsemen, native soldiers, porters, tent boys, gunbearers, ox
+gharries, and all began to wind their sinuous way over veldt or through
+forest, there was none in the line more picturesque than Ali and J.T.
+Jr. surrounded by the affable Little Wanderobo Dog.
+
+[Photograph: Being Posed for a Post Mortem Picture]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Triumvirate]
+
+[Drawing: _The Three Comrades_]
+
+It is little wonder that friendship soon ripened into love, and that we
+all became speedily and irrevocably attached to the little swamp angel.
+His presence in any gathering was like a benediction of good cheer, and
+when his tail was in full swing he looked like a golden jubilee. As I
+say, it was no wonder we liked him, and I think I may also say, without
+flattering ourselves, that the sentiment was reciprocated. I don't
+believe the joy he showed at all times could have been assumed. It must
+have been pure joy, without alloy.
+
+His table manners were above reproach. He would, never grab or show
+unseemly greed. He awaited our pleasure and each bone or chop that fell
+his way was received with every token of mute but eloquent gratitude.
+You were constantly made to feel that he loved you for yourself and not
+for what he hoped you would give him. If I were to be wrecked on a
+desert island, I believe there is hardly more than one person that I'd
+prefer to have as my sole companion than Little Wanderobo Dog.
+
+Perhaps a few words about the architecture of the little dog might not
+come amiss. He was built somewhat on the lines of the German
+renaissance, being low and rakish like a dachshund, but with just a
+little more freeboard than the dachshund. His legs were straight instead
+of bowed, as are those of his distinguished German cousin. His ears were
+hardly as pendulous, being rather more trenchant than pendulous, and
+therefore more mobile in action. His tail was facile and retroussé, with
+a lateral swing of about a foot and an indicated speed of seventeen
+hundred to the minute. When you add to these many charms, those mild
+eyes, surcharged with love light, and a bark as sweet as the bark of the
+frangipanni tree and as cheerful as the song of the meadow-lark, you may
+realize some of the estimable qualities that distinguished Little
+Wanderobo Dog.
+
+For some weeks he stayed with us, Tray-like in his faithfulness, and
+always in the vanguard when danger threatened the rear. One day our
+caravan passed through a group of migrating Wanderobos. There were a
+dozen or so of men, all armed with spears and bows and arrows; also
+fifteen or twenty women, thirty or forty _totos_, and about a score of
+dogs.
+
+Here was the test. Would Little Wanderobo Dog, reclaimed from the swamp,
+harken to the call of the blood and join the band of his own kind? If he
+did, we could only bow our heads in grief and submission, for after all
+were not we only foster friends and not blood relations? But Little
+Wanderobo Dog never wavered in his allegiance to us. He had planted his
+lance by our colors and with these he would stick till death.
+
+He passed those other Wanderobo dogs as if they were creatures from
+another world. If he felt tempted to join his fellow dogs, there was no
+indication of it, and at night when we reached our camp we found our
+faithful follower at his accustomed post, stanch, firm and true to his
+colors, which were black and tan.
+
+But alas, there comes a time when the best of friends must part. And the
+dark day came when I saw Little Wanderobo Dog for the last time. It was
+at Escarpment. Our long months of hunting were over. Our horses and
+porters and all our equipment were on the train bound for Nairobi, where
+we were to settle our affairs and leave Africa and its happy hunting
+ground. Little Wanderobo Dog had been let out of his first-class
+compartment in the train and was running up and down the platform,
+wigwagging messages of gladness with his tail and sniffing friends and
+strangers with dog-like curiosity. Some friends of ours were at the
+train to say howdy-do and to shake our hands, and with these the little
+dog was soon on friendly terms.
+
+When the train whistle blew and the bell was rung and some more whistles
+blew and more bells were rung, Little Wanderobo Dog was taken back into
+his car. The last good-bys were said and we were off for Nairobi.
+Suddenly there was a startled cry, a whisk of a tail, and the dog was
+gone--out of the car window. He lit on his nose, but as far back as we
+could see he sat in the middle of the next track and gazed at the
+receding train. Two days later Mrs. Tarlton came down from Escarpment
+and said that she had rescued the dog and that he was installed in the
+hospitable home of Mrs. Hampson, where he would remain until he rejoined
+those members of our party who were to remain in Africa some months
+longer. It is likely that Little Wanderobo Dog may be taken on a great
+elephant hunt in Uganda and, who knows, some time he may visit America.
+I hope so, for I'd like to give him a dinner.
+
+[Drawing: _Our Last View_]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+WHO'S WHO IN JUNGLELAND. THE HARTEBEEST AND THE WILDEBEEST, THE AMUSING
+GIRAFFE AND THE UBIQUITOUS ZEBRA, THE LOVELY GAZELLE AND THE GENTLE
+IMPALLA
+
+
+In the course of the average shooting experience in British East Africa
+the sportsman is likely to see between twenty and thirty different
+species of animals. From the windows of the car as he journeys from
+Mombasa to Nairobi, three hundred and twenty-seven miles, he may
+definitely count upon seeing at least seven of these species:
+Wildebeest, hartebeest, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's gazelle, zebra,
+impalla, and giraffe, with the likelihood of seeing in addition some
+wart-hogs and a distant rhinoceros, and the remote possibility of seeing
+cheetah, lion, and hyena. Of the bird varieties the traveler will be
+sure of seeing many ostriches, some giant bustards, and perhaps a sedate
+secretary-bird or two.
+
+[Photograph: Hassan and a Hartebeest]
+
+[Photograph: The Author's Home in Africa]
+
+[Photograph: Beautiful Upland Country]
+
+These animals are the common varieties, and after a short time in the
+country the stranger learns to tell them apart. He knows the zebra from
+his previous observation in circuses; he also does not have to be told
+what the giraffe is, but the other ones of the seven common varieties he
+must learn, for most of them are utterly strange to an American eye.
+
+[Drawing: _Gazelle, with Wildebeest in Background_]
+
+He soon learns to pick out the wildebeest, or gnu, by its American
+buffalo appearance; he comes to know the little Thompson's gazelle by
+its big black stripe on its white sides and by its frisky tail that is
+always flirting back and forth. The Grant's gazelle is a little harder
+to pick out at first, and one is likely to get the Grant's and Tommy's
+confused. But after a short time the difference is apparent, the Grant's
+being much larger in stature and has much larger horns and is minus the
+Thompsonian perpetual motion tail. It certainly is a stirring tail! The
+impalla is about the same size as the Grant's gazelle, but has horns of
+a lyrate shape.
+
+The hartebeest is speedily identified, because he is unlike any other
+antelope in appearance and exists in such large numbers in nearly every
+part of East Africa. Indeed, if a returned traveler were asked what
+animal is most typical of the country he would at once name the
+hartebeest. He sees it so much and so often that after a time it seems
+to be only a necessary fixture in the landscape. A horizon without a few
+hartebeests on it would seem to be lacking in completeness.
+
+Furthermore, the stranger soon learns that the hartebeest is commonly
+called by its native name, kongoni, and by the time his shooting trip is
+over the sight of the ubiquitous kongoni has become as much of his daily
+experience as the sight of his tent or his breakfast table. To me the
+kongoni appealed most strongly because of his droll appearance and
+because of a many-sided character that stirs one's imagination.
+
+He is big and awkward in appearance and action; his face is long and
+thin and always seems to wear a quizzical look of good humor, as if he
+were amused at something. Others besides myself have remarked upon this,
+so I am hoping that the kongoni wore this amused look even at times when
+he was not looking at me. His long, rakish horns are mounted on a
+pedicle that extends above his head, thus accentuating the droll length
+of his features. His withers are unusually high and add to the awkward
+appearance of the animal. Standing, the kongoni is a picture of alert,
+interested good humor; running, he is extremely funny, as he bounces
+along on legs that seem to be stiffened so that he appears to rise and
+fall in his stride like a huge rubber ball. We made quite a study of the
+kongoni, for he is a most interesting animal. He is unselfish and
+vigilant in protecting the other creatures of the plain. His eyes are as
+keen as those of a hawk, and when a herd is feeding there are always
+several kongoni sentinels posted on ant-hills in such a strategic way
+that not a thing moves anywhere on the plains that escapes their
+attention. Oftentimes I have cautiously crept to the top of a ridge to
+scan the plains, and there, a mile away, a kongoni would be looking at
+me with great interest.
+
+If you try to approach he will remain where he is until his warning
+sneezes have alarmed all the other animals, and finally, when all have
+fled, he goes gallumphing along in the rear. He is the self-appointed
+protector of his fellow creatures, the sentinel of the plains. I have
+seen him run back into danger in order to alarm a herd of unsuspecting
+zebras.
+
+He leads the wildebeests to water and he lends his eyes to the elephants
+as they feed. With nearly every herd of game, or near by, will be found
+the faithful kongoni, always alert, watchful, and vigilant, and it is
+nearly always his cry of warning that sends the beasts of the plains
+flying from dangers that they can not see.
+
+The sportsman swears at the kongoni because it so often alarms the
+quarry he is stalking. How very often it happens! The hunter sees afar
+some trophy that he is eager to secure and straightway begins a careful
+stalk of many hundred yards. At last, after much patient work, he
+reaches a point where he feels that he can chance a shot. He takes a
+careful sight and at that moment a kongoni that has been silently
+watching him from some place or other gives the alarm, and away goes the
+trophy beyond reach of a bullet. And then how the hunter curses at the
+kongoni, who has stopped some little distance away and is regarding him
+with that quaint, lugubriously funny look. It almost seems to be
+laughing at him.
+
+One day I tried to shoot a topi. It was a broiling hot day and the sun
+hung dead above and drove its burning javelins into me as I crept along.
+For seven hundred yards, on hands and knees, I slowly and painfully made
+my way. The grass wore through the knees of my trousers and the sharp
+stubbles cut my palms; once a snake darted out of a clump of grass just
+as my hand was descending upon it, and lizards frequently shot away
+within a yard of my nose. My neck was nearly broken from looking forward
+while on my hands and knees, and it was nearly an hour of creeping
+progress that I spent while stalking that topi.
+
+When I got within two hundred and fifty yards, and was just ready to
+take a careful aim, with an ant-hill as a rest, a kongoni somewhere gave
+the alarm, and away went the topi, safe and sound but badly scared. The
+kongoni went a little way off and then turned and grinned broadly. I was
+momentarily tempted to shoot him, but on second thought I realized that
+he had acted nobly from the animal point of view, so I forgave him.
+
+[Drawing: _Outward Bound--Reading Your Thoughts--Concluding your
+Intentions Are Hostile_]
+
+The kongoni seems to be gifted with a clairvoyant instinct. He knows
+when you don't want to shoot him and when you do. If you start out in
+the morning with no hostile intentions toward him he will allow you to
+approach to within a short distance. He will be alert and watchful, but
+he will show no anxiety. But just suppose for an instant that you change
+your mind. Suppose you say to yourself that the porters have had no meat
+for several days and that it might be well to shoot a kongoni. The
+latter knows what is passing in your mind long before you have made a
+single movement to betray your intentions. He begins to edge away, ready
+in an instant to go bounding rapidly beyond rifle shot.
+
+I've seen a herd of kongoni standing quite near, watching me with
+curious interest, but without fear. Perhaps I was intent upon something
+else and hardly noticed them. Suddenly a villainous thought might enter
+my head, such as "That big kongoni has enormous horns," and instantly
+the herd would prick up their ears, run a few steps, and then turn to
+verify their suspicions. Then, if the villainous thought still lurked in
+my brain, they would sneeze shrilly and go galloping away in the
+distance. There is no way to explain this except to attribute it to
+thought transference, and this in spite of the fact that the kongoni
+doesn't understand English.
+
+The kongoni is found nearly every place in East Africa. Along the
+railway between Makindu and Nairobi the species is called Coke's
+hartebeest. Farther up the railway the species is Neumann's hartebeest,
+while still beyond, on the Guas Ngishu Plateau and the Mau escarpment,
+the species is called Jackson's hartebeest. In the main the three
+varieties are almost the same; it is in the horns that the chief
+distinction lies, with lesser differences in color and stature. The
+hunter has been allowed to kill ten of each on his license, but under
+the new game ordinance in force since December, 1909, only four
+Jackson's are allowed and twenty Coke's instead of ten.
+
+[Drawing: _The Young Kongoni Is Very Funny_]
+
+When we went across the Guas Ngishu Plateau in early November we saw
+thousands of Jackson's hartebeest, and never a calf. When we came back
+in late December and early January we saw hundreds and hundreds of
+calves, many of them less than a day old. The stork must have been busy,
+for they all arrived at once. These little calves come into the world
+fully equipped for running, and almost immediately after birth go
+bounding along after their mothers, so awkward and so funny that I'm not
+surprised that their own mothers look perpetually amused.
+
+The hartebeest, or kongoni, is hard to kill. The Dutch gave him the name
+for that reason. It often seems as if bullets have no effect on him. He
+will absorb lead without losing a trace of his good-humored look, and
+after he has been shot several times he will go bounding earnestly away,
+as if nothing was the matter. If he succeeds in joining a herd there is
+little way of distinguishing which one has been shot, unless he suddenly
+exhibits signs or falls over. Otherwise he is quite likely to gallop
+away, far beyond pursuit, and then slowly succumb to his wounds.
+
+Again I've seen them knocked over and lie as if dead, but before one
+could approach they would be up and off as good as ever. This is the
+great tragedy of the conscientious hunter's life--the escape of a
+wounded animal beyond pursuit--and the thought of it is one that keeps
+him awake at night with a remorseful heart and saddened thoughts.
+Whenever I shall think of Africa in the future, I shall think of my old
+friend, the kongoni, dotting the landscape and sticking his inquiring
+ears over various spots on the horizon. In four and a half months I
+think I must have seen at least a hundred thousand kongoni.
+
+The giraffe is also a creature of most amusing actions. You are pretty
+certain to see a bunch of them as you come up the railway from the
+coast. They were the first wild animals I saw in British East Africa--a
+group of four or five quietly feeding within only a hundred yards of the
+thundering railway engine. They were in the protected area, however, and
+seemed to know that no harm would reach them there. Later on in the
+morning we saw other herds, but invariably at long range, sometimes
+teetering along the sky line or appearing and disappearing behind the
+flat-topped umbrella acacias.
+
+[Drawing: _They Run Loosely but Earnestly_]
+
+The giraffe is most laughable when in action. He first looks at you,
+then curls his tail over his back, and then lopes off with head and neck
+stuck out, and with body and legs slowly folding and unfolding in a most
+ungainly stride. It is hard to describe the gait of a giraffe to one who
+has never seen it, but any one would at once know without being told
+that a giraffe couldn't help being funny when running.
+
+As a general thing it is difficult to approach a giraffe. With their
+keen eyes and great height they almost invariably see you before you see
+them, and that will be at seven or eight hundred yards' distance. From
+the moment they see you they never lose sight of you unless it is when
+they disappear behind a hill a mile or two away.
+
+When seen on the sky-line a herd of giraffe will suggest a line of
+telegraph poles; when seen scattered along a hillside, partly sheltered
+under the trees, they blend into the mottled lights and shadows in such
+a way as to be almost invisible. I have been within two hundred yards of
+a motionless giraffe and, although looking directly at it, was not aware
+that it was a giraffe until it moved. It might easily have been mistaken
+for a bare fork of the tree, with the mottled shadows of the leaves cast
+upon it.
+
+Along the Tana River I saw several herds of giraffe, perhaps fifty head
+in all, but it was on the great stretches of the scrub country that
+slopes down from Mount Elgon that I saw the great herds of them. One
+afternoon I saw twenty-nine together, big black males, beautifully
+marked tawny females, and lots of little ones that loomed up like lamp
+posts amidst a group of telegraph poles. Within two hours I saw two
+other herds of seven and nine each, and every day thereafter it was
+quite a common thing to run across groups of these strange-looking
+animals browsing among the trees.
+
+One is not allowed to kill a giraffe except under a special license,
+which costs one hundred and fifty rupees, or fifty dollars. One of our
+party had a commission to secure a specimen for a collector and had been
+unsuccessful in getting it. That circumstance led to an amusing
+adventure that I had with a giant giraffe. One day, with my gunbearers,
+I had ridden out from camp in search of wild pigs. Ten minutes after
+leaving camp I drew rein hastily, for off to my left and in front a lone
+giraffe of great size and of splendid black color was slowly careening
+along toward me. If he continued in his course and did not see us he
+would pass within a hundred yards of me. So I hastily but quietly
+dismounted to try for a photograph as he passed.
+
+A moment or two later he saw me for the first time and at once swung
+into a funny trot. I took the picture, and then the thought struck me,
+"Why not drive him into camp, where he could be secured by the one
+having a special license?" I jumped on my horse and galloped around him,
+but in a few moments struck a ravine so rocky that I had to walk my
+horse through the worst of it. By the time I had crossed the giraffe was
+some hundred yards ahead. Still farther ahead the prairie was burning
+and the long line of fire extended a mile or more across our front.
+
+I thought this fire would swing the giraffe off, and so it became a race
+to reach the fire line first, in order to swing him in the right
+direction. The ground was deep with prairie grass, as dry as tinder, and
+scattered throughout were innumerable holes in the ground made by the
+ant-bears and wart-hogs. Any one of these holes was enough to throw a
+horse head over heels if he went into it. I had no gun, having left it
+with my gunbearer when I took the picture. So there was nothing to
+hinder me as we swept across the great plain.
+
+We passed the camp half a mile away at a furious pace, the giraffe
+holding his own with the horse and keeping too far in front to be
+turned. By degrees we approached the prairie fire and the flames were
+leaping up three or four feet in a line many hundred yards long. The
+giraffe hesitated and then breasted the walls of fire; I didn't know
+whether my horse would take the salamander leap or not, and as we rushed
+down toward it I half-expected that he would stop suddenly and send me
+flying over his shoulders. But he never wavered. The excitement of the
+chase was upon him and he took the leap like an antelope. There was a
+moment of blinding smoke, a burning blast of air, and then we were
+galloping madly on across the blackened dust where the fire had already
+swept.
+
+For two miles I galloped the giraffe, vainly endeavoring to swing him
+around, but once a swamp retarded me and another time a low hill shut
+the giraffe from view. When I passed the hill he had disappeared and
+could not be found again. There was no deep regret at having lost him,
+for I felt particularly grateful to him for having given me the most
+exhilarating and the most joyous ride I had in Africa.
+
+The large male giraffes often appear solid black at a distance, for the
+yellow bands separating the splotches of black are so slender as to be
+invisible at even a short distance. The females are much lighter and
+usually look like the giraffes we see in the circuses at home.
+
+Then there's the ubiquitous zebra, almost as numerous as the kongoni.
+You see vast herds of zebra at many places along the railway, and
+thereafter, as you roam about the level spots of East Africa, you are
+always running into herds of them. At first, the sight of a herd of
+zebras is a surprise, for you have been accustomed to seeing them in the
+small numbers found in captivity. It is a source of passing wonder that
+these rare animals should be roaming about the suburbs of towns in
+hundred lots. You decide that it would be a shame to shoot a zebra and
+determine not to join in this heartless slaughter.
+
+Later on your sentiments will undergo a change. Everybody will tell you
+that the zebra is a fearful pest and must be exterminated if
+civilization and progress are to continue. The zebra is absolutely
+useless and efforts to domesticate him have been without good results.
+He tramps over the plains, breaks down fences, tears up the cultivated
+fields, and really fulfills no mission in life save that of supplying
+the lions with food. As long as the zebras stay the lions will be there,
+but the settlers say that the lions are even preferable to the zebras.
+
+Under the old game ordinance expiring December fifteenth, 1909, a
+sportsman was allowed two zebras under his license; under the new one he
+is allowed twenty! That reveals the attitude of East Africa toward the
+jaunty little striped pony.
+
+[Drawing: _Zebra, Wildebeest and Gazelle (Wildebeest in Middle)_]
+
+In action the zebra is dependent upon his friend, the kongoni. When the
+latter signals him to run, he trots off and then turns to look. If the
+kongoni sends out a 4-11 alarm, the zebra will hike off in a
+Shetland-pony-like gallop and run some distance before stopping. They
+have no endurance and may be easily rounded up with a horse.
+
+On the Athi Plains may be found the bones of scores of zebras, each spot
+marking where a lion has fed; and in the barb-wire fences of the
+settlers other scores of withered hides and whitened skulls mark where
+they have fallen before the grim march of civilization.
+
+With each sportsman granted an allowance of twenty zebras, it may not be
+so long before the zebra will be forced to seek the sanctuary of the
+game reserves, which, happily, are large enough to insure his escape
+from extinction.
+
+The zebra's chief peculiarity, aside from his beautiful markings, is a
+dog-like bark which is much more canine than equine in its sound. The
+zebra's chief charm is its colt, for there is nothing alive that is
+prettier or more graceful than a young zebra a few weeks old.
+
+The only Grant's gazelles that I saw were those along the railway at
+Kapiti Plains and Athi Plains. This animal is graceful and beautiful,
+with a splendid sweep of horns. With them, and in much greater numbers,
+is the little "Tommy," or Thompson's gazelle, a graceful, buoyant,
+happy, bounding little antelope with an ever active tail flirting gaily
+in the sunshine. The Tommy is small, about twice as big as a fox
+terrier, and is of a fawn color. Along the lower parts of his sides is a
+broad white belt, along the middle of which runs a bold black stripe.
+The effect is strikingly handsome.
+
+The impalla is much bigger than the Tommy, and he usually travels in
+large herds of fifty or more. It is no uncommon sight to see one buck
+with twenty or thirty females, and it is probably due to the fact that
+hunters try to get the male specimens as trophies that accounts for the
+vast preponderance of females in the various antelope herds. The impalla
+is seen along the railroad and in enormous numbers out along the Thika
+Thika and Tana Rivers. There are also many up in the Rift Valley and
+doubtless in other sections. From my own experience and observation they
+were most abundant on the Tana River.
+
+[Drawing: _Impalla Buck and Lady Friends_]
+
+The wildebeest, or gnu, is found on the Athi Plains and northward along
+the Athi River and the Thika Thika. One need never travel more than two
+hours' drive or walk from Nairobi to see wildebeest, but it's a
+different thing to get them. You would have to travel many hours, most
+likely, before you succeeded in bringing down a wildebeest.
+
+My first shot in Africa was at a wildebeest at three hundred yards. The
+bullet struck, but so did the wildebeest. He struck out for northern
+Africa, and when last seen was still headed earnestly for the north
+pole. I am consoled in thinking that my shot must have inflicted more
+surprise than injury and so I hope he has now fully recovered, wilder
+and beastier than of yore.
+
+My last shot in Africa, the day before leaving for the coast, was at a
+wildebeest an hour or so out of Nairobi. This time I missed entirely and
+repeatedly and the wildebeest remains unscathed to roam the broad plains
+of the Athi until some better or luckier shot passes his way. If I have
+anything on my conscience, it is certainly not the remorse of having
+reduced the supply of wildebeests.
+
+[Drawing: _Wildebeest With the White Man Only Eight Miles Away_]
+
+In our last few days' shooting out on the Athi Plains we saw perhaps
+fifty or seventy-five of these great bison-like animals. Their bodies
+and legs and tails are slender and graceful, like those of a horse, but
+the heads are heavy-featured, heavy-horned and heavy-bearded. They are
+wild and when they see you a mile or so away will start and run for the
+nearest vanishing point, usually arriving there long before you do.
+
+The foregoing seven species of animals are the ones most commonly seen
+in East Africa. Perhaps something about some of the less common ones
+will have some instructive value.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+SOME NATURAL HISTORY IN WHICH IT IS REVEALED THAT A SING-SING WATERBUCK
+IS NOT A SINGING TOPI, AND THAT A TOPI IS NOT A SPECIES OF HEAD-DRESS
+
+
+While reading an account of the trophies secured by Colonel Roosevelt on
+the Guas Ngishu Plateau, I was mystified by seeing the name of an animal
+I had never heard tell of--a singing topi. For a time I puzzled over
+this strange creature and finally evolved a satisfactory explanation of
+how the animal made its appearance in the despatches. Briefly, "there
+haint no sich animal," as the old farmer said when he saw his first
+dromedary in a circus; it was merely a mistake, due to the telegraphic
+abbreviations which foreign correspondents employ to save cable tolls.
+
+What the correspondent meant to say was that the colonel had secured a
+sing-sing waterbuck _and_ a topi. The word "waterbuck" was omitted
+because he assumed that everybody at home would know that a "sing-sing"
+was a species of waterbuck, wherein he was mistaken, for comparatively
+few people in America know what a sing-sing is, or, for that matter,
+what a topi is, or what a Uganda cob is. When his despatch had been
+transmitted through several operators on its way to the States the word
+"sing-sing" became "singing" and was supposed to be an adjective
+describing the topi. Hence the "singing topi."
+
+The American paragraphers also had fun with the word "topi," for they
+thought a topi was a sun hat much worn in the hot countries. From this
+course of reasoning it was probably assumed that Colonel Roosevelt had
+shot some kind of a singing sun hat, which was certainly enough to cause
+comment.
+
+There are two kinds of waterbuck that the East African hunter will find
+in the course of his travels, the common waterbuck which we saw in such
+numbers on the Tana River, and the Defassa, or "sing-sing" waterbuck,
+which is found in the higher altitudes up toward the Mau escarpment and
+Mount Elgon. Both of these varieties of waterbuck are beautiful animals,
+almost as large as a steer, and with great sweeping horns that often
+exceed twenty-five inches in length. In some instances the horns have
+been nearly three feet long, but the longest one that our party secured
+was only twenty-nine inches in length. As a trophy for a wall there are
+few heads in Africa more noble than that of the waterbuck.
+
+In all our wanderings, during which we saw at least two thousand
+waterbuck, we found that the does outnumbered the males by ten to one
+and that usually in a herd of twenty there would be only one big male
+and one or two smaller ones. We also never saw them in water, but
+usually not a great distance from a marsh or stream. They were much
+shier than the hartebeest and zebra, and upon seeing our approach would
+be the first to run away. And by a curious chance the does seemed to
+know that it was the buck only that was in danger. They would often turn
+to watch us, while the buck himself would keep on running until he had
+put many hundreds of yards between himself and the threatened danger.
+Then, and then only, would he turn to watch, and it usually required
+careful stalking to get within gunshot of him again.
+
+[Drawing: _Waterbuck_]
+
+The doe is not pretty, being thickly and clumsily built, with a heavy,
+ungraceful neck, but the buck is like a painting by Landseer, noble,
+graceful, and beautifully marked with white and black on his dark gray
+coat.
+
+We didn't kill many waterbuck, because there is no excuse for doing so
+except to secure the heads as trophies. The meat is so coarse and tough
+that even the porters, who seldom draw the line at eating anything their
+teeth can penetrate, do not care for waterbuck meat except under the
+stress of great hunger. They do like the skin, however, for it is of the
+waterbuck skin that their best sandals are made. Consequently, when a
+waterbuck is killed there is a fierce scramble among the porters to
+secure portions of the hide for this purpose.
+
+The male waterbucks are savage fighters among themselves, and it was not
+uncommon to see big bulls with one horn gone or with both horns badly
+broken or marred as a result of the jealous struggle for dominance of a
+herd of does.
+
+The topi is something like the hartebeest, but much more beautiful and
+much more rare. It is over four feet high, with skin of a dark reddish
+brown, with a silklike bluish gray gloss. On the shoulders and thighs
+are bluish black patches and the forehead and nose are blackish brown.
+The under parts are bright cinnamon. We ran across this beautiful
+antelope only on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, although it is found in one or
+two other districts in East Africa. In all our weeks of rambling on the
+high plains near Mount Elgon I think I saw several hundred head of topi,
+always shy and quick to take alarm.
+
+[Photograph: A Uganda Cob]
+
+[Photograph: By Courtesy of W.D. Boyce The Lordly Eland]
+
+The meat is the most delicious of any of the large antelopes, and the
+skin, when properly cared for, is as soft as kid and as brilliant as
+watered silk. The head is a fine trophy on account of its rich coloring
+rather than because of its horns, which are not particularly graceful in
+curve or proportion, but which are wonderfully ridged.
+
+[Drawing: _Topi_]
+
+I am sure that if I were a beautiful topi with a skin like watered silk
+I should be deeply humiliated to be mistaken for a singing sun hat.
+
+The topi's nearest relations are the sasseby, the tiang, and the
+korrigum. And now you know all about the topi. The game ordinance allows
+the sportsman to kill two topi, and the holder of a license will work
+hard to get his two, for they are splendid trophies.
+
+The duiker is another little antelope that one meets frequently in the
+grassy places of East Africa. It is small, with dark complexion, and
+goes through the high grass in a way that strongly suggests the diving
+of a porpoise at sea. In fact, it gets its Dutch name for that reason,
+_duiker bok_, meaning "diving buck" in Dutch. There are a dozen or more
+different species of duikers, and they may be found scattered all over
+South and East Africa. They are difficult to shoot, for their diving
+habits make them a fleeting target; also their size, about twenty or
+thirty pounds in weight, makes them a small target.
+
+Quite often the little duiker will hide in the grass until you have
+almost stepped on him, and then, if he considers discovery inevitable,
+he will spring away with his little huddled-up back rising and
+disappearing over the grass exactly as the porpoise does in the water.
+One day while we were beating some tall grass for lions, one of the
+porters stepped on a duiker, and its sharp horns, twisting suddenly, cut
+him on the ankle. The horns of the bucks are short and straight, from
+four to six inches long, but most often about four and a half inches.
+
+It would take an expert mathematician to keep track of all the different
+kinds of duikers, for there's the crowned duiker, the yellow-backed
+duiker, the red duiker, Jentink's duiker, Abbott's duiker, the Ituri red
+duiker, the black-faced duiker, Alexander's duiker, the Ruddy duiker,
+Weyn's duiker, Johnston's duiker, Isaac's duiker, Harvey's duiker,
+Roberts' duiker, Leopold's duiker, the white-bellied duiker, the bay
+duiker, the chestnut duiker, the white-lipped duiker, Ogilby's duiker,
+Brooke's duiker, Peter's duiker, the red-flanked duiker, the banded
+duiker, Walker's duiker, the white-faced duiker, the black duiker,
+Maxwell's duiker, the black-rumped duiker, the Uganda duiker, the blue
+duiker, the Nyasa duiker, Heck's duiker, the Urori duiker, Erwin's
+duiker, and I suppose a lot more that the naturalists have not had time
+to catalogue.
+
+[Drawing: _Like a Popular Cemetery_]
+
+One would assume that with all these duikers there would hardly be room
+left in Africa for any other animals. But there is. For instance,
+there's the oribi and the dik-dik, to say nothing of the steinbuck and
+the klipspringer. The last named is a rock-jumping antelope, the others
+little grass antelopes, and all of them are as pretty and cute as
+animals can be. They are all small, the dik-dik being scarcely larger
+than a rabbit, and they are divided into as many subspecies as the
+duiker. A list of the different kinds of oribi would take up several
+lines of valuable space without conveying any illuminating intelligence
+to the lay mind.
+
+We found thousands of oribi on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. You couldn't go
+half a mile in any direction without stirring up large family parties of
+them, and a landscape looked lonely unless one could see a few oribi
+bounding over the ant-hills or rising and falling as they leaped through
+the grass. When we first went into the plateau the grass was long and
+the oribi were for the most part fleeting streaks of yellow over the
+tops of it, but later when we came out the grass had been burned and the
+young, tender grass had spread a green carpet over the plains. Then the
+oribi were visible everywhere, usually in groups of four or six. Also
+the mamma oribis had given birth to bouncing baby oribis, and the sight
+of the little ones was most pleasing to the eyes.
+
+[Drawing: _Mamma and the Little One_]
+
+One day I was hot on the trail of a big waterbuck. The grass was deep at
+that part of the plateau and I was pushing rapidly through it. Suddenly
+one of my gunbearers, who was behind, called out and pointed to
+something in the grass. I hurried back, and there lay a little oribi
+only a few hours old and with big, wondering eyes that looked gravely up
+at me as I bent over it. It was plenty old enough to run and could
+easily have leaped away, but there it lay as tight as if nothing in the
+world could make it budge.
+
+[Photograph: A Museum Specimen Must Be Preserved Entire]
+
+[Photograph: The Eland Is the Largest of the African Antelopes]
+
+The whole thing was as plain as could be. It was acting under
+instructions. I could almost hear the mother of the oribi tell the
+little one when it heard us coming to lay perfectly quiet and not to
+move the least bit until she came back. Then mamma hurried away to
+cover. The little oribi remembered his instructions and followed them
+out to the letter. Its mamma had told it not to move and it hadn't. We
+looked at it a little while and then said good-by and went our way. Some
+place near by an anxious mother oribi was watching us with her heart in
+her mouth, no doubt, and I'm sure that we had not gone many yards before
+she was back to see what had happened to the little one. It was quite an
+exciting adventure for the little oribi and quite incomprehensible to
+the mother that he had emerged from the peril so safely.
+
+Another night I was going out to watch for lions. A bait had been placed
+near the tree where I was stationed and I had some hopes of seeing, if
+not killing, a lion. Night had already fallen, but there was still a
+trace of twilight in the air as I walked through the low scrub trees
+that lay between our camp and the tree, a mile and a half away. As I was
+walking along I heard a loud screaming to my left, and, looking across,
+I saw an oribi trying to beat off two jackals that had seized her young
+baby oribi. The jackals paid little attention to her and she was frantic
+in her efforts to save her little one.
+
+It was too dark to see my sights plainly, but I shot at both of the
+jackals and sent them slinking away. I didn't go over to see if the
+little oribi was still alive, for I was certain that it had been killed.
+If it were dead I didn't want to see it and could not help either it or
+its mother; if it were alive its mother could get it safely away from
+the jackals. Since that moment I have hated jackals above all animals,
+not even excepting the odious hyena, and it is the chief regret of my
+hunting experience in East Africa that I did not kill those two cowardly
+vandals.
+
+When the American reader picks up his paper and reads that Colonel
+Roosevelt has shot a Uganda cob, it is quite natural that he should not
+know what kind of a thing a cob is. If the colonel was out shooting
+"singing topis" or "singing sun hats," why, then, should he not also
+shoot corn cobs or cob pipes?
+
+The cob, sometimes spelled kob, however, is only an antelope, although a
+graceful and handsome one. It is divided into several subspecies which
+live in different parts of the country. In one part will be found the
+large cob, almost the size of a waterbuck, which is called Mrs. Gray's
+cob, in honor of the wife of one of the former keepers in the London
+zoo; in another part is the species known as Vaughan's cob, and in still
+other parts are the dusky cob, the puku cob, the lechwi cob, the black
+lechwi, the Uganda cob and Buffon's cob.
+
+It was Lady Constance Stewart-Richardson, the remarkable young English
+woman who is now dancing barefooted on the London music stage, who
+killed the record head of this last named species in Nigeria.
+
+[Drawing: _The Gregarious Cob_]
+
+It is of the Uganda cob only that I am able to write about from my own
+observation and experience. We found them only in one place, on the
+banks of the Nzoia River near Mount Elgon and the Uganda border. They
+never were more than four or five hundred yards from the river and could
+not be driven away. If they were startled at one point they would circle
+around and quickly get back to the river at some other point. They
+seemed to become homesick unless they could see the river near by. We
+found them only in a short stretch of five or six miles, although they
+doubtless are found all the way down the Nzoia River to Victoria Nyanza.
+
+The cob is a curiously reliable animal. He likes one certain place that
+he is accustomed to, and nothing can drive him away. If you see him
+there one afternoon, you are reasonably certain of coming back the next
+afternoon and seeing him there again. Usually they graze in some
+sheltered meadow along the river's edge, and for recreation, so far as I
+could see, amuse themselves by seeing how many can get on top of one
+ant-hill at one time. Some of those ant-hills were literally bristling
+with cobs, one male to each five females, and in herds of from thirty to
+fifty.
+
+In architecture, the cob is nearly three feet high at the shoulder, has
+beautiful, sweeping horns of a lyrate shape, has a white patch around
+each eye, a white belly, and a coat of yellow with black on the
+forelegs. There is no handsomer antelope in Africa than the Uganda cob,
+and because it is found in such a restricted and remote district is
+accountable for the fact that one seldom sees a cob head in a collection
+of horns. Comparatively few sportsmen have killed them, although they
+are not hard to kill if one reaches a district where they are found. The
+extreme beauty of this antelope led us to secure a group of them for the
+Field Museum.
+
+The reedbuck is another of the smaller antelopes that carries a
+beautiful head, and, like nearly all of the antelopes, comes in many
+varieties, or subspecies.
+
+[Photograph: A Wounded Wart Hog]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce A Grass Fire]
+
+[Photograph: A Maribou Stork]
+
+Our own relations with the reedbuck were limited to the high altitudes
+near the Mau escarpment and the broad, rolling, grassy downs along the
+numerous streams of the Guas Ngishu Plateau. This subspecies is called
+the Uganda race of the bohor reedbuck--sometimes abbreviated to "bohor."
+If you say you've shot a "bohor" you will be understood to mean a bohor
+reedbuck.
+
+[Drawing: _Reedbuck_]
+
+You will find the reedbuck in the tall reeds and bulrushes of the swamps
+and low places, where he finds good cover and good feeding; and also you
+will find him along the low, undulating, grass-covered hills near his
+water supply. In the heat of the day they are up in the tall grass,
+where they remain until along in the afternoon. They lie close, and, if
+discovered, will dart off with neck outstretched in such a way as to
+make it difficult to tell which is male and which female.
+
+I have also seen the females use every means for protecting their lords
+and masters, standing up before them as they lie secreted in the grass
+and seeking to divert the attention of the hunter from the bucks to
+themselves. This desire to protect the male is common to many of the
+antelope family, and numberless times I have seen a band of does attempt
+to screen the male and shield him from harm.
+
+The reedbuck never travels in large numbers, seldom more than two or
+three, or at most, five or six, being bunched together.
+
+[Drawing: _They Watched While the Buck Ran Away_]
+
+We had most of our reedbuck experiences while driving swamps for lions.
+On these occasions many reedbuck would be driven out of the cover of the
+reeds and rushes, and go crashing up the slopes leading away from the
+swamp. On one occasion a reedbuck lay so close that it did not stir
+until one of the beaters was almost upon it, when it sprang up, nearly
+knocking him over, and escaped behind the skirmish line of beaters. At
+other times, after the skirmish line apparently had traversed every foot
+of a swamp, reedbuck would spring up after the line had passed, thus
+illustrating how close they can lie and how effectually they can escape
+detection.
+
+The reedbuck has short horns, usually between seven and ten inches in
+length, but one of our party secured one set of horns ten and a quarter
+inches long--an exceptionally fine head. The reedbuck's distinguishing
+characteristic is a sharp whistle, which he sounds shrilly when alarmed.
+
+Another beautiful antelope that we met in small numbers on the Tana
+River and on the Guas Ngihsu Plateau was the bushbuck, found in thick
+scrub along rivers and also in the swamps and wet places. This animal
+belongs to a select little coterie of highly prized and rare antelopes,
+all of which have the distinguishing feature of a spiral horn.
+
+The bushbuck is the smallest, and is found over nearly all of East
+Africa except upon the open plains and deserts. The females are of a
+dark chestnut color, and the males dark, almost black, with white
+markings on the neck and forelegs. A bushbuck with fifteen-inch horns is
+considered a fine prize, although horns of nineteen inches are on
+record.
+
+The other members of the same family of spiral-horned antelopes are the
+kudu, the lesser kudu, the situtunga, the nyala, the bongo, and the
+lordly eland, king of all antelopes in size. The kudu is largely
+protected in East Africa, and in my shooting experience I was not in a
+district where he was to be found. The same was true with respect to the
+lesser kudu. The nyala is a South African species and is not to be found
+in British East Africa. The situtunga is a swamp dweller and is found
+chiefly in Uganda and, to my knowledge, infrequently in the East African
+protectorate.
+
+The bongo is to the white sportsman what the north pole has been to
+explorers for centuries. In all records of game shooting there has been,
+until recently, only one white man who has killed a bongo, although the
+Wanderobo dwellers of the deep forests have killed many.
+
+The bongo lives in the densest part of dense forests, can drive his way
+through the worst tangle of vegetation, and has a hearing and eyesight
+so keen that usually he sees the hunter long before the latter sees him.
+A hunt after bongo means long hours or even days of hunting the forests,
+with hardships of travel so disheartening that comparatively few white
+sportsmen attempt to go in after the elusive antelope. Kermit Roosevelt,
+however, with the good fortune that has followed his hunting adventures,
+succeeded in killing a cow and calf bongo after only a few hours of
+hunting with a Wanderobo.
+
+A few days after I heard of this piece of good luck I was traveling
+across Victoria Nyanza on one of the little steamers that ply the lake.
+My cabin mate was a stoical Englishman who told me quite calmly that he
+had just killed a large bull bongo a few days before. He had been
+visiting Lord Delamere, and after a few hours in the forest had
+succeeded in doing what only two white men had done before.
+
+The Englishman who had this good luck was George Grey, a brother of Sir
+Edward Grey, one of the present cabinet ministers of England.
+
+[Drawing: _Eland_]
+
+The eland is the largest of all antelopes, and we ran across a few on
+the Tana River and a few on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. Under the old game
+ordinance the sportsman was allowed to kill one bull eland; under the
+new ordinance he is allowed to kill none except in certain restricted
+districts and by special license. The eland is as big as a bull, with
+spiral horns and beautifully marked skin, and both the male and female
+carry horns. Those of the latter are usually larger and slenderer, but
+the skin of the female is not so handsomely marked as that of the male.
+
+It is hard to get near an eland, but as the bull is nearly six feet high
+at the shoulders it is not especially difficult to hit him at three
+hundred yards or more. The one I shot was three hundred and sixty-five
+yards away and carried beautiful horns, twenty-four and one-quarter
+inches in length. The head of the great bull eland makes a wonderfully
+imposing trophy when placed in your baronial halls.
+
+In the foregoing list of antelopes I have tried to tell a little about
+the types of that class of animal that I met in my African travels--in
+all, sixteen species of antelope. My chief excuse for doing it is to
+enable people at home to know the difference between a topi and a sun
+hat and between a sing-sing and a cob. The names of many of the African
+antelope family are strange and confusing, so that it is little wonder
+that they mystify people in America. There are a hundred or more kinds,
+and no one can hope to know them unless he makes a business of it.
+
+I have not seen the grysbok, or the suni, or the dibitag, or the lechwi,
+or the aoul, or the gerenuk, or the blaauwbok, or the chevrotain, or
+lots of others, but who in the world could guess what they were or what
+they looked like, judging only from the names?
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+IN THE TALL GRASS OF THE MOUNT ELGON COUNTRY. A NARROW ESCAPE FROM A
+LONG-HORNED RHINO. A THANKSGIVING DINNER AND A VISIT TO A NATIVE VILLAGE
+
+
+Mount Elgon is one of the four great mountains of Africa. You can find
+it on the map of the dark continent, standing all alone, just a little
+bit north of Victoria Nyanza, and surrounded by names that one has never
+heard of before.
+
+The mountain is distinctly out of the picture-post-card belt--in fact,
+the only belt that one will find around Elgon is the timber belt that
+encircles the mountain, and perhaps also a few that the local residents
+wear on Sundays and national holidays.
+
+The function of the latter class of belt is to keep up a gay appearance.
+It is worn for looks, not warmth.
+
+The traveler who goes to Mount Elgon will not be distracted by sounds of
+civilization, except such as he takes with him. He will travel for days
+without seeing a sign of human life beyond his own following. The
+country west of the Nzoia River is uninhabited and is abandoned to the
+elephant and the giraffe and other animals that care not for the madding
+crowd. Thomas Cook and Son have not yet penetrated that district with
+schedules and time cards and luggage labels; so if your purpose in
+traveling is to get a grand assortment of stickers on your trunks and
+hand-bags, it is useless to include Mount Elgon in your itinerary.
+
+There will be days of marching through high grass, often so deep as
+almost to bury yourself and your horse; hours of delay at marshy rivers
+densely choked with a tangle of riotous vegetation, and much groping
+about in a trackless waste for a suitable course to follow.
+
+Owing to intertribal warfare the Elgon district has been closed for some
+time and it has only been during the last year or so that hunting
+parties have again been allowed to enter. Since that time a number of
+parties have been in, the Duke of Alba among the first, and later Doctor
+Rainsford, Frederick Selous and, Mr. McMillan, Captain Ashton, the Duke
+of Peñaranda, Mr. Roosevelt, and a few others. Colonel Roosevelt went
+only as far as the Nzoia River, but most of the others crossed and swung
+up along the northeastern slopes of the mountain where elephants are
+most frequently found.
+
+Our party decided to take the southern slope, notwithstanding we were
+warned that we might find the natives troublesome and treacherous. We
+were also warned that we should be going through an untraveled district
+where there were no trails and where native guides could not be secured.
+
+[Photograph: A Native Granary]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Chair Is a Sure Sign of
+Rank]
+
+Nevertheless we started and brilliantly blundered into some most
+diverting adventures.
+
+The first day's march after crossing the Nzoia River was through scrub
+country and what we considered high grass. The next day we struck _real_
+high grass! It was so deep that we had to burrow through it. Only the
+helmets of those on horseback marked where the caravan was passing. The
+long line of porters carrying their burdens were buried from view. It
+was a terrible place to meet a rhino and perhaps for that very reason we
+promptly proceeded to meet one.
+
+We were riding ahead, followed by the cook and the tent boys, and behind
+them was the long string of a hundred or more porters, askaris, _totos_,
+and so forth. The end of the line was some hundred yards behind the
+head. Suddenly there was a wild cry of "_faru!_" (rhino).
+
+It was disconcerting, but after one or two hurried and flurried moments
+we got our heavy batteries in readiness and prepared to sell his life as
+cheaply as possible. But no rhino came. The grass was too deep to have
+seen him if he had come, but we thought it was well to have a reception
+committee ready just the same.
+
+Then the rear ranks began to telescope into the front ranks. They came
+forward two or three jumps at a time. They were visibly perturbed, but
+presently they recovered enough to give expert testimony.
+
+A huge rhino had been in the grass by the trail as we came along and had
+waited until the whole line had passed. Then he jumped into the trail
+and charged furiously after the porters. The latter, severally,
+collectively, and frantically, leaped for their lives, dropping packs
+and uttering hurried appeals to Allah.
+
+[Drawing: _He Estimated the Length at Four Feet_]
+
+After scattering a few dozen of the rank and file from his line of march
+the rhino veered off and plunged out of sight in the tall grass. One of
+the porters whose veracity is unquestioned by those who don't know him
+estimated the forward horn to be four feet long. He said the rhino
+charged earnestly and with hostile intent.
+
+A rhino charging a _safari_ is always a pleasing diversion--pleasing
+after it's all over and diverting while it lasts. The cry of "_faru_" is
+a good deal like "car coming" at an automobile race. Instantly everybody
+is all attention, with the attention equally divided between the rhino
+and the nearest tree. If there is no tree the interest in the rhino
+becomes more acute.
+
+The thought of being impaled _en brochette_ on the horn of a rhino is
+one of the least attractive forms of mental exertion that I know of. It
+is a close second to the thought of being stepped on by a herd of
+elephants marching single file.
+
+Well, we survived the charge of the heavy brigade, and then moved
+onward, ever and anon casting an alert glance at the deep clumps of
+thicket along the way. Fortunately no more rhinos appeared and the next
+thing we struck was Thanksgiving Day.
+
+The proper way to celebrate that deservedly popular holiday is not by
+sitting in tall grass with a can of beans and a bottle of pickles in the
+foreground. This is said with all respect to the manufacturers of beans
+and pickles who may advertise in the papers.
+
+For a time, however, beans and pickles seemed to be the nearest outlook
+for us, but after a while the cook, whose nerves had been shaken by the
+impetuous advance of the rhino, arose to the demands of the occasion and
+set up a table upon which soon appeared some hot tea, some bread and
+honey, some beans and deviled ham, and a few knickknacks in the line of
+jam and cheese. That was luncheon, and we resolved to do better for
+dinner.
+
+We told the cook all about Thanksgiving Day and what its chief purpose
+was. We also told him of the beautiful significance of the occasion,
+what happy thoughts it inspired, and how much sentiment was attached to
+it. Then we told him to get busy. We were in a Thanksgiving mood, being
+grateful that we were not riding around on the bowsprit of the rhino,
+and also because our relatives and friends at home were well at last
+reports, two months old.
+
+True, our guide, who had never been over the trail before and who was
+trying to guess the way by instinct, had got us hopelessly becalmed in a
+sea of high grass so that we didn't know where we were. But we knew what
+we were. We were hungry!
+
+In the meantime we planned and carried into brilliant execution a grouse
+hunt. There were lots of grouse in the country through which we had come
+and all day long coveys of them had been whirring away from our
+advancing outposts. It seemed a simple thing to go out and get a few for
+our Thanksgiving dinner, so we gave orders to make camp and consecrated
+the afternoon to a grouse quest.
+
+I'll never forget what a formidable looking party it was. When we had
+spread out to comb the grass by the river side we looked like a skirmish
+line of an army. There were four of us, supported by seventeen
+gunbearers and porters. Our battery consisted of four elephant guns,
+four heavy rifles, three light rifles, and four shotguns. The latter
+were for grouse and the others were for incidental big game which one
+must always be prepared for, whether one goes out to shoot grouse or
+take snapshots with one's camera.
+
+[Drawing: _The Grouse Hunt_]
+
+We spread out and beat two miles of perfect cover. Then we beat it back
+again and finally, after all our Herculean efforts, one lonely bird flew
+up and was knocked over. That was the astounding total of our slaughter
+and when the army marched back into camp with its one little grouse the
+effect was laughable in the extreme. I took a photograph of the entire
+group and by good luck the grouse is faintly seen suspended in the
+middle.
+
+That night, with the camp-fires burning and with our tents almost buried
+in the tall grass, we celebrated Thanksgiving in a way that must have
+made old Lucullus fidget in his mausoleum. The wealth of the plains was
+compelled to yield tribute to our table; eland, grouse and Uganda cob
+appeared and disappeared as if by magic; the vast storehouses of Europe
+and America poured their treasures upon our groaning board, and one by
+one we safely put away succulent lengths of asparagus, cakes and
+chocolate, wine and olives, pickles and honey, nuts and cheese, plum
+pudding and coffee, and soup and salad, all in their proper sequence and
+in sufficient quantities to go round and round.
+
+A soft moon shone down from the velvet sky and the trees of the river
+bed were bathed in white moonlight as we sat by the great camp-fire and
+smoked and talked and dreamed of the folk at home.
+
+It was an unusual occasion, one that called for a special dispensation
+in the way of late hours, so it was almost nine when we turned in and
+dreamed of armies of rhinos playing battledore and shuttlecock with our
+bulging forms. It was a great dinner, and to be on the safe side we
+complimented the cook before we went to bed.
+
+[Photograph: A Group of Ketosh Ladies]
+
+[Photograph: Nearly Buried in Grass]
+
+[Photograph: Building a Grass House]
+
+A day or two later, after blindly floundering about in a sea of waving
+grass for miles and miles, and getting more and more hopelessly lost, we
+stumbled upon signs of human habitation. The first sign was a great
+stretch of valley in which a number of smoke columns were ascending.
+Where there's smoke there's folk, we thought, patting ourselves on the
+back for cleverness. We knew we were approaching fresh eggs and
+chickens.
+
+A little later we came upon another sign of human agitation. Over a rise
+in a hill we saw a large spear, and in a few minutes we overhauled a
+native guarding a herd of cattle. He carried a spear and a shield, and
+over his shoulders he wore a loose dressing sack that hung down nearly
+to his armpits. Civilization had touched him lightly, in fact it had
+barely waved at him as it brushed by.
+
+We tried him with several languages--Swahili, Kikuyu, the language of
+flowers, American, Masai, and the sign language, none of which he was
+conversant with. Then we tried a relay system of dialects which
+established a vague, syncopated kind of intellectual contact. One of our
+porters spoke Kavirondo, so he held converse with the far from handsome
+stranger, translated it into Swahili, and this was retranslated into
+English for our benefit.
+
+The stranger was a Ketosh. We didn't know what a Ketosh was, but it
+sounded more like something in the imperative mood than anything
+ethnological. It developed later in the day, however, that a Ketosh is a
+member of the tribe of that name, and their habitat is on the southern
+slopes of Elgon.
+
+[Drawing: _Lady and Gentleman Ketosh_]
+
+The Ketoshites, or Ketoshians, as the case may be, are a cattle- and
+sheep-raising tribe. In other words, a tribe in which the women do all
+the manual labor while the men folk sit on a hillside with a shield and
+spear and watch the herds partake of nourishment. They are the standing
+army.
+
+[Drawing: _The Standing Army Sat Around All Day_]
+
+We followed the man with the spear to a little village hard by. The
+village, like all the numerous other ones that we came to in the next
+few days, was inclosed in a zareba, or wall of tangled thorn branches
+that encircled the village. Within the wall were a number of low houses,
+six feet high, built of mud and wattle; and within the houses, spilling
+over plentifully, were large numbers of children and babies and a few
+women. A gateway of tangled boughs led into the inclosure, while in one
+part of the village were the curious woven wickerwork granaries in which
+the community store of kaffir corn is kept. There were no street signs
+on the lamp posts, probably because there were no streets and no lamp
+posts.
+
+In the first village all the men were away, evidently waiting to see
+whether our visit was a hostile or a peaceful one.
+
+We soon established ourselves on a peace footing and after that the
+warriors began to appear out of the tall grass in large numbers from all
+points of the compass. They all carried spears and shields, neither of
+which they would sell for love or money. At least they wouldn't for
+money. We resolved not to try the other unless the worst came to the
+worst and we had to fall back on it as a last desperate measure. I
+suppose they didn't know how soon they might need their weapons, and we
+heard that the sultan had just sent out a positive order forbidding them
+to sell their means of defense.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Ketosh Are Gracefully
+Nonchalant]
+
+[Photograph: Little Shelters of Mud and Sticks]
+
+[Photograph: A Family Party]
+
+The first procedure when entering a district where the natives may be
+unfriendly is to send out for the chief, or sultan, as he is known in
+Africa. There is always a sultan to preside over the destinies of his
+tribe and to take any money that happens along. So we sent for the
+sultan, who was off in a neighboring village, so they said. After a long
+wait, during which we pitched our camp and offered a golden reward for
+eggs and chickens, a sultan drifted in.
+
+[Drawing: _Slowly Being Cremated_]
+
+We knew he was sultan because he carried a chair--an unfailing sign of
+rank among a nation of expert sitters. He also wore an old woolen
+dressing gown that had worked its way from civilization many years
+before. It was built for arctic regions, but the sultan of all the
+Ketoshians wore it right straight through the ardent hours when the sun
+kisses one with the fiery passion of a mustard plaster. He was slowly
+being cremated and it was fascinating to watch him sizzle.
+
+After the sultan came and seated himself with his retinue of spearmen
+(dressed in the altogether save for the futile cloth around their
+shoulders) grouped around him we took our seats and began a _shauri_.
+
+_Shauri_ (rhyming with Bow'ry) is a native word meaning a powwow or a
+parley and is a word that works overtime. Everything that you do in
+Africa has to be preceded by a _shauri_. You have a _shauri_ if you ask
+a native which road to take. Other natives hurry up, and then you stand
+around and talk about it for an hour or so.
+
+If you want to buy a chicken or a cluster of eggs there must first be a
+prolonged _shauri_ with much interchange of views and conversation and
+aërated persiflage. The native loves his _shauri_, and if he asks you a
+certain price for a chicken and you give the price without haggling he
+is greatly disappointed. In fact I have often seen them offer an article
+for a certain price and then refuse to accept the money if it is at once
+tendered. Later the native will accept much less if the _shauri_ goes
+with it.
+
+Well, we had _shauris_ to burn for a couple of days. As soon as the
+first sultan had departed with presents and words of good cheer there
+was a flock of other sultans that hurried in to receive presents and to
+assist in _shauris_. They came from far and near, and they all carried
+chairs, thus proving that they were not impostors; and the worst of it
+was that we couldn't find out exactly which was the real, most exalted
+sultan of the bunch. Hence we had to give presents to many who perhaps
+were only amateur or 'prentice sultans, sultans whose domains were only
+a little village of half a dozen families.
+
+[Drawing: _The Camp Was Clogged with Sultans_]
+
+For two days our camp was clogged with _shauris_ and sultans sitting
+around. We couldn't step out of our tents without stumbling over a
+sultan or two. When we would take our baths in our tents there would be
+sultans and warriors peeping in modestly from all sides. There was not a
+secret of our inner life that remained intact. Even the ladies, from the
+banana-bellied little girls of five and six up to the leathery-limbed
+old matrons, inclusive, were not above a feminine curiosity in things
+which doubtless interested them, but didn't concern them. The standing
+army of the Ketoshians sat around all day wearing out the grass and
+being frequently stumbled over.
+
+If we asked a sultan if there were any elephants in the neighborhood it
+meant at least fifteen minutes of loose conversation through a relay of
+interpreters, with the final answer boiled down to a "no" in English.
+For a language that has only a few words like _shauri_, _backsheesh_,
+_apana_, and _chukula_ the native lingo is a most elastic one.
+
+There were two or three things that we had come to Mount Elgon for and
+about which we desired information. The first was "elephants," and we
+found, after hours of talk, that there was none in the vicinity.
+Secondly, we wanted to get food for our men, and thirdly, we wanted
+guides to take us up to the ancient cave-dwellings in the mountain and
+more guides to take us up to the top of the mountain itself.
+
+It seemed almost impossible to get satisfactory information upon either
+of the last two subjects. The natives didn't want to part with their
+grain, while for their cattle they asked outrageous prices. We were
+almost tempted to boycott them by stopping eating meat for two months.
+They also seemed reluctant to let us have guides to take us up to the
+caves and none of them seemed to know the trails that led up into the
+forests and the heights of the mountain. It was evident that only a few
+ever had been up the mountain upon the slopes of which they had spent
+their lives.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. At the Entrance of the Great
+Cave]
+
+[Photograph: There Were Granaries in the Cave]
+
+[Photograph: In One of the Elgon Caves]
+
+We began to think that they wanted us to stay in their village just so
+they could have the pleasure of their daily _shauris_.
+
+Finally one sultan promised to get us guides and accepted a generous
+present on the strength of it; but when the time came he failed to
+produce them. It was at precisely this point, to be strictly accurate,
+that we abandoned the polite phraseology of the court and told him with
+many exclamation points that he would have to guide us himself or we
+would take steps to dethrone him. Of course, all of this had to be
+strained through two interpreters, but even then I think he caught the
+gist of it. He said that he himself would guide us to the nearest and
+largest cave.
+
+We told him that we would be ready to start immediately after luncheon.
+Only ourselves and a few men to carry cameras and guns were to
+constitute our party, the rest of the _safari_ remaining in camp, from
+which certain embassies were sent out to buy grain for the porters'
+food.
+
+Soon after lunch the sultan arrived and we marched away. Little by
+little groups of his janissaries, mamelukes, and other members of his
+official entourage joined us and by the time we reached the slope
+leading up to the great cave-dwelling we had quite an imposing
+procession. Most of the natives were armed with spears and knives, and
+some of them had painted their bodies with red dirt and mutton grease,
+and when this coating had partly dried they had traced with their
+fingers many designs in stripes down their arms and legs. Some were a
+light mauve in color, but most were of a rich chocolate brown. The
+effect of these designs was rather pretty, but the dripping red oil from
+their hair was not pretty and on a hot day exuded a strong, overpowering
+odor.
+
+Above us, nearly a thousand feet from where we stood, boldly visible in
+the face of the great cliff, was the broad ledge and black opening of
+the cave. A short distance to the right of it was a bright waterfall,
+looking like a ribbon, but in reality quite broad and dropping in three
+stages several hundred feet. An incline of forty-five degrees led up to
+the cave, while up beyond that was the great stratum of solid rock that
+extends for miles along the south of Mount Elgon and which is
+honey-combed with hundreds of prehistoric cave-dwellings. A determined
+foe stationed at the mouth of any one of the caves could defend it
+against an enormous attacking force.
+
+It was nearly an hour's climb to the ledge where the cave entrance
+appeared. Several naked men armed with spears stood upon the rocks,
+outlined in bold and striking relief against the velvety blackness of
+the cave entrance. They appeared curious but not unfriendly as we
+breathlessly panted our way on to the ledge where they stood waiting,
+spears in hand.
+
+[Drawing: _Like a Great Stage_]
+
+Our first impression was one of gasping wonderment. We seemed to stand
+upon a great stage of an immensity which words can not describe. It was
+a stage proportioned for giants. The rock prosscenium arched above us
+seventy feet and the stage was nearly two hundred feet wide. As an
+audience chamber one could look out over twenty-five thousand square
+miles of Central Africa.
+
+The dimensions and the imposing magnitude of the place almost took one's
+breath away. Two regiments of soldiers could have marched upon that
+stage. There was even room for a squadron of cavalry to manoeuver.
+Upon the well-beaten floor were the tracks of cattle, showing that from
+time immemorial the cave people had driven in their herds for shelter or
+for safety in times of tribal warfare; and in places the solid rock was
+worn smooth and deep by the bare feet of centuries of naked people.
+
+And yet, in spite of the titanic proportions of the cave, there was
+something quite homelike about it. It almost suggested a prosperous
+farm-yard. There were chickens walking about, with little chickens
+trotting alongside. There were wickerwork graneries standing here and
+there, while around the inner edge of the great entrance hall were
+little mud and stick woven houses five feet high, which gave the effect
+of a small village street.
+
+From the front of the stage back to the row of little houses was a
+distance of about one hundred feet. By stooping down one could enter one
+of the little openings, to be surprised to find himself in another
+little farm-yard where cattle had been housed and where there were many
+evidences of the thrift and industry of the occupants. Gourds of milk
+were present in generous numbers, and as one's eyes became accustomed to
+the semi-darkness all sorts of domestic paraphernalia were revealed.
+
+Little separate inclosures were fenced off for human tenantry, and the
+glow of embers gave a pleasant, homelike look to the place. Cavern after
+cavern extended back into the cliff, a network of them, but how far they
+went would be hard to tell. Perhaps the cave in all its subterranean
+ramifications has never been entirely explored.
+
+We wandered back through some of the caverns, sometimes stooping to get
+through and sometimes standing beneath domes thirty and forty feet high.
+And always that queer, mystical light, with exaggerated shadows and
+sometimes black darkness ahead, where could be heard the drip, drip,
+drip of water in invisible lakes. In time of siege the holders of this
+cave, with granaries filled and with herds of cattle and lakes of water,
+could hold the place for ever.
+
+The tenants of the place soon became pleasant and hospitable. Perhaps
+many of them had never seen white people before, but they sat down and
+watched us with friendly interest. There were many babies and they were
+all bright-eyed and rugged looking.
+
+While we were there the cattle were out on the open hills grazing, but
+in the evening the long herds are driven up to their airy stronghold and
+made snug for the night. And who knows but that a great herd of cattle
+would add much to the heat of the cave and make its nearly naked tenants
+forget that they were high on the chilly slopes of one of Africa's
+greatest mountains?
+
+They certainly do not dress warm. Around their arms and legs are all
+sorts of brass and nickel wire wound in scores of circles. Chains of
+wire and necklaces of beads encircle the women's throats and elephant
+ivory armlets are often clasped about the arms so tight that it would
+seem that the natural circulation would be hopelessly retarded. But they
+must be healthy, these people who go about with only a thin sheet of
+dyed cotton thrown about them, while we northerners shivered with
+sweaters and warm woolen things about us.
+
+It's all a case of getting used to it, just as it is a case of getting
+used to seeing people frankly and unconsciously naked, as many of these
+people are. But after a while one even gets used to seeing them so and
+regards their nakedness as one would regard the nakedness of animals.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN SIDE FROM THE KETOSH VILLAGE TO THE GREAT CAVE
+OF BATS. A DRAMATIC EPISODE WITH THE FINDING OF A BLACK BABY AS A CLIMAX
+
+
+For days we had heard of wonderful places higher up in the mountain. The
+information had been so vague and uncertain we hardly knew whether to
+credit the reports or simply put them down as native folk lore or
+superstition. One night we interviewed Askar, one of the Somali
+gunbearers.
+
+He said he had been up the mountain a year or two before with a
+Frenchman who wanted to see the mysterious natural wonders of Mount
+Elgon. The Frenchman had to threaten to kill his native guides before
+they would consent to lead him up in the cold heights of the mountain to
+show him the places that filled the native imagination with such fear
+and superstitious dread.
+
+There was one place, Askar said, where the water boiled out of the
+ground far, far up in the mountain heights, and any native who looked at
+it fell dead. Askar said he went up and looked at it through the
+glasses, and then ran away.
+
+All this queer information came out at one of our evening camp-fire
+_shauris_. The great central camp-fire of a _safari_ is usually in front
+of the tents of the _msungu_, or white people, and around it in the
+evening the _msungu_ discuss the adventures of the day and the plans for
+the morrow. Each night Abdi, the _neapara_ or head-man, comes up to get
+his instructions for the next morning, and soon afterward Abdullah, the
+cook, appears and waits for his orders for the breakfast hour.
+
+Abdullah is the color of night, and no one ever sees him approach or go
+away. He simply appears and often stands only a few feet away before any
+one is aware of his presence. And even after he speaks, one sees only a
+row of white teeth looming up five feet above the ground. If any
+important matters are to be adjusted it is usually at the camp-fire that
+the things are settled. If punishment is to be meted out to a
+transgressor, it is there that the trial is held and judgment rendered.
+
+Well, on, this night as we sat talking by the camp-fire, Abdi, our
+head-man, suddenly appeared and squatted down. Soon after up came Askar,
+who also squatted down, and we knew that we were in for some unusual
+sort of a _shauri_. It was then that Askar told of the strange mystery
+of the mountain.
+
+[Photograph: Curious as to Our Home Life]
+
+[Photograph: On the Rim of the Crater]
+
+[Photograph: A Birthday Dinner]
+
+"Askar says," spoke Abdi, interpreting Askar's imperfect English, "that
+up in the mountain there is a big door and a great cave. He went up with
+a Frenchman, and the guides refused to go. Then the Frenchman threatened
+to kill them if they would not go. They were frightened, because all the
+natives die who go to the big door and see the boiling fountain through
+the door. Askar say all the natives ran away, but the Frenchman go on."
+
+"Did Askar see the door?"
+
+"Askar says he see the door and he see the fountain through some
+glasses. Then he ran away."
+
+[Drawing: _Camp in the Forest_]
+
+"Can Askar take us up to the cave and the big door?"
+
+There was then a long discussion in Somali between Askar and Abdi, which
+finally was briefly rendered into English. Askar would show us the way.
+
+We then sent for the sultan of the Ketosh tribe and interviewed him. He
+was singularly reticent about the subject, and both he and the other
+natives called in used all their crude intelligence to discourage any
+attempt to go up into those districts that were so full of strange,
+forbidding influences. They said there were no trails, and when we said
+we would go anyway, they said there was a trail, but that it was so
+tangled with undergrowth and vines that one had to creep through it,
+like an animal. We still said we would go, and told the sultan to get us
+guides, for which we would pay well.
+
+All this happened while we were in the Ketosh village that lies on the
+slope of the mountain just beneath the great rock wall, a thousand feet
+high, whose upper rim is honeycombed with the ancient caves of the
+aborigines. For days we had stopped there, endeavoring to get food and
+guides, and for days the sultan and his people had placed every obstacle
+in the way of our ascending higher the mysterious and comparatively
+unknown mountain. The great rock escarpment shut off the view of the
+peaks beyond, but we felt that if once we could scale the first
+precipitous slope we would find traveling much easier on the gentle
+slope of the mountain.
+
+At last, after persuasion, threats, money, and pleading had in turn been
+tried, the sultan brought his son and said that his son would guide us.
+
+The son was the craftiest and crookedest looking native I had seen in
+Africa. After one look at him, you were filled with such distrust and
+suspicion that you would hardly believe him if he said he thought it was
+going to rain, or that crops were looking up.
+
+With this man as a guide, and with four more who were tempted by the
+bright red blankets we gave, our caravan started on one of the strangest
+and perhaps most foolhardy trips that presumably sane people ever made.
+In the first place, probably fewer than half a dozen white men had ever
+ascended Mount Elgon. There were no adequate maps of the region, and the
+one we had was woefully inaccurate. It was made as if from telegraphic
+description, and the only thing in which it proved trustworthy was that
+there was a mountain there and that it was about fourteen thousand two
+hundred feet high, and that the line separating British East Africa from
+Uganda ran through the crater at the top.
+
+Our delay at the Ketosh village had greatly reduced our food supplies
+for the porters, and there was only enough left to last six days. In
+that time we should have to ascend the mountain and descend to some
+place where food supplies could be procured. It all looked quite
+quixotic. We bought two bullocks, a sheep, and a goat, and, with our
+guides ahead, our entire _safari_ of over a hundred souls turned toward
+the grim heights that shot up before us.
+
+[Drawing: _Up to the Rim of the Crater_]
+
+The trail for the first thousand feet of ascent was steep and hard to
+climb. The rocks high above us were specked with natives, who gazed down
+in wonder at the strange spectacle. These were the cave-dwellers. After
+an hour or more we reached the crest of the rim and then continued
+through elephant grass ten feet high, then dense forest, and finally
+through miles of clean, cool, shadowy bamboos--always steadily climbing.
+The trail was fairly good and our progress was encouraging.
+
+[Photograph: In the Belt of Bamboo]
+
+[Photograph: Giant Cactus Growth In the Crater]
+
+[Photograph: Up Twelve Thousand Feet in the Crater]
+
+There were many elephant pits in the bamboo forest, but they were all
+ancient ones, half-filled with decayed leaves and obviously unused for
+half a century or more. From some of them fairly large-sized trees had
+grown. Sometimes in the midst of these great, silent, light-green
+forests we came upon giant trees, tangled and gnarled, with trunks
+twenty or thirty feet in circumference. In vain we looked for the
+impassable trail the natives had warned us to expect.
+
+Late in the afternoon we came to a wonderful cave, over the mouth of
+which a wonderful fan-shaped waterfall dropped seventy feet or more. My
+aneroid barometer indicated an elevation of eighty-two hundred feet,
+showing that we had climbed twenty-seven hundred feet since morning. We
+found a little clearing in the bamboo forest and pitched our tents on
+ground that sloped down like the roof of a house. The clearing was
+barely fifty yards long, yet our twenty or more tents were pitched, our
+horses tethered in the middle, and the camp-fires crackled merrily as
+the chill air of night came down upon us. From the forest came the
+multitude of sounds that told of strange birds and animals that were out
+on their nocturnal hunt for food.
+
+Early in the morning the _safari_ was sent on with the guides while we
+remained to explore the cave. It was an immense cavern, with an entrance
+hall, or foyer, about thirty feet high and a hundred feet in length.
+Along the inner edge were the crumbling remains of little mud and wattle
+huts that had been occupied by people a long time before. Beyond this
+great entrance hall were passages that led into other vast, echoing
+caverns with domes like those of a cathedral.
+
+Countless thousands of bats darted about us as our voices broke the
+silence of ages, and in places the deposits of bats were two or three
+feet deep. It staggered one's senses to think how long these creatures
+had dwelt within the labyrinth of caverns and passageways.
+
+We explored the cave for a quarter of a mile or so, stumbling, stooping,
+climbing, and sliding down precipitous slopes. Far off in the darkness
+sounded the steady drip, drip, drip of water, and several times our
+progress was stopped by black lakes into which a tossed stone would tell
+of depths that might be almost bottomless. We fired our shotguns and the
+loosened dirt and rocks and the thunder of thousands of bats' wings were
+enough to terrify the senses.
+
+There is no telling how many centuries or ages these caverns have stood
+as they stand to-day. Doubtless the wild tribes of the mountain have
+occupied them for thousands of years, and doubtless a thousand years
+from now the descendants of these tribes of people and bats will still
+be there in the cisternlike caverns with the broad fan of sparkling
+water spreading like a beautiful curtain across the great archway of an
+entrance.
+
+That night, after hours of climbing through great forests and across
+grassy slopes gay with countless varieties of beautiful and strange
+flowers, we pitched our camp on a wind-swept height eleven thousand feet
+up. The peaks of the mountain rose high above us only a mile or so
+farther on.
+
+When the night fell the cold was intense, and we huddled about the
+camp-fire for warmth. Around each of the porters' camp-fires the
+humped-up natives crouched and dreamed of the warm valleys far below in
+the darkness. I suppose the cold made them irritable, for just as we
+were preparing to turn in there suddenly came a succession of screams
+from one of the groups--screams of a boy in mortal terror. The sounds
+breaking out so unexpectedly in the silent night were enough to freeze
+the blood in one's veins. I never heard such frantic screams--like those
+that might come from a torture-chamber.
+
+One of the porters had become infuriated by one of the _totos_--small
+boys who go along to help the porters--and had started in to beat him.
+The boy was probably more frightened than hurt, but the matter was one
+demanding instant punitive action. So Abdi immediately inflicted it in a
+most satisfying manner.
+
+Once more the silence of the mountain fell upon the camp, but it was
+hours before the shock to one's senses could be forgotten. I never
+before, nor never again expect to hear screams more harrowing or
+terrifying.
+
+The next day a Martian sitting upon his planet with a powerful glass
+might have seen the amazing sight of three horses, one mule, two
+bullocks, a goat, and a sheep, preceded and followed by over a hundred
+human beings, painfully creep over the rim of the crater and
+breathlessly pause before the great panorama of Africa that lay
+stretched out for hundreds of miles on all sides. It was as though an
+army had ascended Mont Blanc, and thus Hannibal crossing the Alps was
+repeated on a small scale.
+
+Leaving our horses on the rim of the crater, a few of us climbed the
+highest peak, fourteen thousand three hundred and seventy-five feet
+high, as registered by my aneroid barometer, and stood where very few
+had stood before. Even the official height of the mountain, as given on
+the maps, was found to be inaccurate, and illustrated how vaguely the
+geographers knew the mountain.
+
+That night we camped in the crater, twelve thousand feet up, and washed
+in a boiling sulphur spring that sprang from the rocks on the Uganda
+side. Perhaps this was the boiling fountain the superstitious natives
+feared, for it was the only one we saw. And perhaps the great gorge
+through which the river Turkwel, or Suam, flowed on its long journey
+north was the door that Askar had told us about. It was the only door we
+saw, but Askar said the door he meant was away off somewhere else, and
+he was so vague and confused in his bearings that we felt his
+information was unreliable.
+
+The crater of Mount Elgon has long since lost any resemblance to a
+volcanic crater. It is a great valley, or bowl, surrounded by a lofty
+rim that in reality is a considerable chain of mountains. The bowl is
+two or three miles long and as much wide, with tall grass growing on the
+small hills inside and thousands upon thousands of curious cactus-like
+trees. Several mountain streams tumble down from the gorges between the
+peaks and, uniting, flow out of the big gap in one stream, the river
+Turkwel, which separates Uganda from British East Africa.
+
+[Drawing: _In the Crater of Mount Elgon_]
+
+Mount Elgon is not an imposing mountain and on most occasions there is
+no snow on its peaks. Only one time during the several weeks that we
+were in sight of it was its summit capped with snow. A few species of
+small animals live in the crater, but no human beings. At night ice
+formed in the little pools where we camped and a furious wind, biting
+cold, swept down from the peaks and eddied out of the great gap where
+the Turkwel flows.
+
+To all of our _safari_ it was a welcome hour when we struck camp,
+preparatory to leaving the crater for the lower levels. The guides said
+there were only two ways out--one by the Turkwel gorge and the other by
+the route up which we came. The former might lead us far from any
+sources of food supplies, which by that time were becoming imperatively
+necessary, and the latter was undesirable unless as a last resort. After
+some deliberation we resolved to climb over the eastern rim and strike
+for the Nzoia River. No one had ever been known to take this course, but
+we felt that we could cut our way out and make trails sufficient to
+follow.
+
+The guides refused to go, because by doing so they would enter a
+district where they might encounter tribes that were hostile to their
+own. On one side of this mountain there was a bitter tribal war even
+then under way. So we cheerfully said good-by to the Elgonyi guides and
+slowly climbed the rock rim and started for the unknown.
+
+[Photograph: A Deserted Wanderobo Village]
+
+[Photograph: Where We Had Our Thanksgiving Day Lunch]
+
+For two days we climbed downward, sometimes along ancient elephant
+trails and sometimes along the sheep trails made by the flocks of
+mountain tribes. Several times we came upon deserted Wanderobo villages,
+and it was evident the natives who occupied them were abandoning their
+homes in terror before our descending column. Sometimes we groped our
+way through great forests in which there was no trail to follow, and
+sometimes we cut our way through dense jungle thickets like a solid wall
+of vegetation.
+
+[Drawing: _Galloping Lions_]
+
+Upon several occasions we came to impassable places where an abrupt
+cliff would necessitate a tiresome return and a new attempt. Once we
+came to a little clearing in the vast forest where the grass was like a
+lawn and where towering trees rose like the arches of a great cathedral
+a hundred feet above. It was the most beautiful, serene and majestic
+spot I have ever seen. Even the religious grandeur of Nikko's
+cryptomeria aisles was incomparable to this.
+
+One afternoon our column found itself hopelessly lost in a jungle growth
+so dense that one could penetrate it only by cutting a tunnel through,
+and for hours we hacked and hacked and made microscopic progress. At
+last the head of the column came to an abrupt drop of a couple of
+hundred feet which seemed an effectual bar to all further progress. The
+cliff fell off at an angle of sixty degrees, with the slope densely
+matted with heavy scrub and underbrush. It was necessary either to
+retrace our steps through that long and heart-breaking jungle or else
+find a way down the cliff. The water was gone and the horses must be got
+to water before night.
+
+Then, followed the most dramatic episode of our trip. We simply fell
+over the cliff, plunging, caroming, and ricocheting down through the
+masses of vegetation. How the horses got down I shall never know and
+shall always consider as a miracle. And how the burden-bearing porters
+managed to get their loads down is even more of a mystery.
+
+Somewhere down below we heard the cry of a baby!
+
+That meant that there must be human habitation near and, of course, a
+mountain stream, and perhaps guides to lead us out of the mountain
+fastness. A few moments more of falling and sliding and plunging, and
+the advance guard came into a tiny clearing where a fire was burning. A
+rude Wanderobo shack, built around the base of a towering tree from
+which fell great festoons of giant creepers, stood in the center of the
+clearing. Some food, still hot, was found in the vessels in which it had
+been cooking. The people had fled and had been swallowed up in the
+silent depths of the forest.
+
+[Drawing: _Coming Down the Mountain_]
+
+We called and shouted, but no answer came. Some of our porters proceeded
+to rob the shack of its store of wild honey, but were apprehended in
+time and were threatened with violent punishment if it continued. Then
+we prepared to make camp. There was no space for our tents, and trees
+had to be cut down and a little clearing made. Here the tents were
+huddled together, clinging to the sloping mountain side. Darkness fell,
+and then a most wonderful thing happened.
+
+One of the tent boys who was searching for firewood in the darkening
+forest found a little naked baby, barely three months old. It had been
+thrown away as its mother, as she thought, fled for her life. The baby
+was brought into camp, wrapped up, and cared for, and it will never know
+how near it came to being devoured by a leopard or a forest hog. It was
+the crying of this baby that we heard, and we assumed that its mother
+had cast it aside so that its wailing would not betray the hiding-place
+of the remainder of her family. One can only imagine what her terror
+must have been to make this sacrifice in the common interest.
+
+Now, a three-months-old baby is a good deal of a problem for a _safari_
+to handle. In our equipment we had made no provision for the care of
+infants. We could wrap it up and keep it warm, and feed it canned milk,
+but I imagine the proper care of a little babe requires even more than
+that. It was imperative that we find the mother before the baby died.
+
+[Drawing: _A Tent Boy Found It_]
+
+So we first enjoined our mob of porters, who are chronically noisy, to
+be quiet under penalty of a severe _kiboko_ punishment. We then sent out
+Kavirondo, the big, good-natured porter who always acted as our
+interpreter when dealing with the natives of the mountain district. He
+spoke the dialects of the Wanderobo tribes. He was a messenger of peace,
+and he was told to shout out through the forest that we were friendly,
+that we had the baby, and that the mother should come and get it. We
+felt absolutely certain that the sound of his voice would carry to where
+the mother was hidden.
+
+For an hour or more we heard the strong voice of Kavirondo crying out
+his message of peace, and yet no answering cry came from the black
+depths of the forest. It began to look as if we were one little black
+baby ahead. In the meantime the baby was behaving beautifully. It was
+wrapped warmly in a bath towel and seemed to enjoy the attention it was
+receiving. Some one suggested that we leave it in the shack and then all
+retire so that the mother could creep in and recover it. But this had
+one objection--a leopard might creep in first.
+
+We cooked our dinner and away off in the forest came the echoing shouts
+of Kavirondo. The camp settled down to quiet and the camp-fires twinkled
+among the towering trees. Then some one rushed in to say that the father
+and mother had come in.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. "Kavirondo"]
+
+[Photograph: Outlined Against the Sky]
+
+[Photograph: A Reception Committee]
+
+Kavirondo had restored the baby! There was an instant impulse to rush
+down to see the glad reunion, but better counsel prevailed. Such a
+charge, _en masse_, even though friendly, might frighten the natives
+away. So Akeley alone went down and assured the father and mother that
+we were friendly and that nothing would harm them. And when he came back
+it was to report that the parents and the little baby were peacefully
+installed in their forest home again.
+
+[Drawing: _She Threw Her Baby Away_]
+
+Early in the morning we went down to see our strange friends. They had
+greatly increased in number during the night. There were now one man,
+two of his wives, an old woman, and eight children, and the tiny baby.
+All fear had vanished, and they seemed certain that no harm was likely
+to come to them.
+
+The man was a good-looking, strongly built native with fine honest eyes.
+The women were comely and the children positively handsome. I have never
+seen such a healthy, fine-eyed, well-built assortment of childhood,
+ranging all the way from three months up to eight or nine years of age.
+He was the president of the Anti-Race Suicide Club. We gave them all
+presents--beads to the children and brass wire to the women. We also
+made up a little fund of rupees for the baby, although money seemed to
+mean nothing to any of them. They had never seen white men before and
+probably knew nothing of metal money. Beads and brass wire were the only
+currency they knew. We tried to photograph them, but the shades in the
+forest were deep and the light too was bad for successful pictures.
+
+Little by little we got their story.
+
+There was warfare between the forest people and the savage Kara Mojas to
+the north. Neither side could ever tell when a band of the foe would
+swoop down upon them, killing the men, stealing the sheep and seizing
+the women. Only a few months before one of the Kara Mojas had come in
+and stolen some sheep and in return our Wanderobo friend had sallied
+forth, killed the Kara Moja, and captured his wife. It was the latter
+who was now the mother of the little baby, and she seemed quite
+reconciled to the change.
+
+[Drawing: _The Wanderobos' Home_]
+
+When, the night before, the little family around the camp-fire heard the
+crashing of brushes and the hacking of underbrush and the shouts of our
+porters they thought a great force of the Kara Mojas was upon them. So
+they fled in terror. The baby cried, and, fearful that its wails would
+betray their hiding-place, they had cast it away in the bushes. Then
+they had fled into the depths of the forest and, huddled together in
+silent fear, waited in the hope that the Kara Mojas would leave. Finally
+they heard Kavirondo's shouts and then after hours of indecision they
+decided to come in.
+
+That is the end of the story. The Wanderobo, grateful to us, led us by
+secret trails out of the wilderness, or as far as he dared to go. He led
+us to the edge of the enemy's country and then returned to his forest
+home.
+
+In a couple of days of hard marching, one of which was through soaking
+torrents of rain, without food for ten hours, we reached the Nzoia
+River. Our mountain troubles were overs.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+ELECTRIC LIGHTS, MOTOR-CARS AND FIFTEEN VARIETIES OF WILD GAME. CHASING
+LIONS ACROSS COUNTRY IN A CARRIAGE
+
+
+Nairobi is a thriving, bustling city, with motor cars, electric lights,
+clubs, race meets, balls, banquets, and all the frills that constitute
+an up-to-date community. Carriages and dog-carts and motorcycles rush
+about, and lords and princes and earls sit upon the veranda of the
+leading hotel in hunting costumes. Lying out from Nairobi are big
+grazing farms, many of them fenced in with barbed wire; and the peaceful
+rows of telegraph poles make exclamation points of civilization across
+the landscape. It doesn't sound like good hunting in such a district,
+does it? Yet this is what actually happened:
+
+We had discharged our _safari_, packed up our tents, and were just
+ready to start to Mombasa to catch a ship for Bombay. A telegram
+unexpectedly arrived, saying that the boat would not sail until three
+days later, so we decided to put in two or three more mornings of
+shooting out beyond the limits of the city.
+
+We got a carriage, a low-necked vehicle drawn by two little mules. It
+was driven by a young black boy, and we got another boy from the hotel
+to go along for general utility purposes. Into this vehicle we placed
+our guns, and at seven o'clock in the morning drove out of the town. In
+fifteen or twenty minutes we had passed through the streets and had
+reached the pleasant roads of the open plains. Soon we passed the
+race-track and then bowled merrily along between peaceful barbed-wire
+fences. Occasional groups of Kikuyus were tramping along the road,
+bringing in eggs or milk to Nairobi. A farm-house or two lay off to
+either side, and once or twice we passed boys herding little bunches of
+ostriches.
+
+At about a quarter to eight we drove up the tree-lined avenue of a
+farm-house and a pleasant-faced woman responded to our knock. We asked
+for permission to shoot on the farm and were told that we were quite
+welcome to shoot as much as we wished.
+
+Five minutes later, less than an hour's drive from Nairobi, we drove
+past a herd of nearly sixty impalla. They watched us gravely from a
+distance of two hundred yards. At this point we left the well-traveled
+road and drove into the short prairie grass that carpeted, the Athi
+Plains. The carriage bumped pleasantly along, and as we reached a little
+rise a few hundred feet away, the great stretch of the plains lay spread
+out before us.
+
+Mount Kenia, eighty or ninety miles north, was clear and bright with its
+snow-capped peaks sparkling in the early sunlight. Off to its left rose
+the Aberdare Range, with the dominating peak of Kinangop; to its right
+rose the lone bald uplift of Donyo Sabuk, and to the east were the blue
+Lukenia Hills. The house-tops of Nairobi waved miragically in the
+valley, with a low range of blue hills beyond. Across the plains ran the
+row of telegraph poles that marked the course of the railway and a
+traveling column of smoke indicated the busy course of a railway train.
+This was the setting within which lay the broad stretches of the Athi
+Plains, billowing in waves like a grass-covered sea.
+
+[Photograph: A Nest of Ostrich Eggs]
+
+[Photograph: A Herd of Ostriches]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce We Bumped Merrily Along]
+
+As we drove along big herds of zebras paused in their grazing to regard
+the carriage as it merrily bumped across the hills. As long as we
+remained in the vehicle they showed no alarm, for they had seen many
+carriages along the neighboring roads. It was only when the carriage
+stopped that they showed an apprehensive interest. Great numbers of
+Coke's hartebeest watched us with humorous interest. An eland grazed
+peacefully upon a distant hill, and a wart-hog trotted away as we
+approached. Immense numbers of Thompson's gazelle skipped away merrily
+and then turned to regard us with widespread ears and alert eyes. Two
+Grant's gazelles were seen, while far off upon a grassy hillside were
+many wildebeest--the animal that we were seeking. It was impossible to
+get close enough to shoot effectively, and after a time we gave up our
+attempts in that direction.
+
+The wildebeest, although living so near Nairobi, are most wild, and with
+miles of plains stretching out upon all sides it is easy for them to
+keep several hundred yards of space between themselves and danger. We
+spent a couple of hours of fruitless stalking and then were obliged to
+hurry back to town in order to be at the hotel when the tiffin bell
+rang.
+
+I had not yet secured a Thompson's gazelle, so we stopped and each of us
+shot one on our way to the road. Then we returned to town. People along
+the streets regarded us with surprised interest, for there were two
+gazelles hanging out of the carriage and our four rifles gave the
+vehicle an incongruously warlike aspect.
+
+[Drawing: _Shooting Wildebeest (Cross Marks Location of Wildebeest,
+Outward Bound)_]
+
+The next morning at seven o'clock we were again in our carriage. We
+drove out to the same place and at a few minutes after eight we were
+amazed to see a wild dog rise from the grass and look at us. We hastily
+jumped out of the carriage and walked toward him. In a moment a number
+of others rose from the grass, until we saw seventeen of them. This
+animal is seldom seen by sportsmen, and I believe it is considered quite
+rare. In four months only one of our party had previously seen any.
+Sometimes they savagely attack human beings, and when they do their
+attack is fierce and hard to repel. They watched us narrowly as we
+approached them and then moved slowly away. They seemed neither afraid
+nor ferocious.
+
+We each shot and missed. The pack split, and Stephenson followed one
+little bunch while I followed another. My course led me toward a
+shallow, rock-strewn nullah, and once or twice I fired again at the wild
+dogs. But I couldn't hit them. There was nothing remarkable in my
+failure to make a good shot, but Stephenson, who is a celebrated rifle
+shot, seemed to be equally unfortunate in his work. He was some distance
+away and his bullets would not go where he wanted them to go.
+
+Suddenly my attention was riveted upon three forms that walked slowly
+out of the nullah and climbed the slope on the other side, about three
+hundred and fifty yards away. I was transfixed with amazement and could
+hardly believe my eyes.
+
+They were lions!
+
+One was a female and the other two immense males. They were walking
+slowly, and once or twice they stopped to look back at me. Then they
+resumed their stately retreat.
+
+As soon as I recovered from my astonishment I shouted to Stephenson, who
+had been lured far away by the wild dogs.
+
+"_Simba!_" I yelled, pointing to the three lions.
+
+He seemed not to comprehend, and I saw him reluctantly turn from the
+dogs and fix his glasses upon the direction I indicated. In no time he
+was hurrying up to join me, and we hastily formed a plan of campaign.
+The lions had now disappeared over the brow of the hill. I looked at my
+watch and the hour was not yet nine o'clock. We were still in sight of
+the distant house-tops of Nairobi. It seemed unbelievable.
+
+We crossed the nullah and the carriage jolted down and across a few
+minutes later. We took our seats and studied the plains with our
+glasses. The lions were not in sight. Then we studied the herds of game
+and saw that many of them were looking in a certain direction. We drove
+in that direction and whipped up the mules to a lively trot. In a few
+minutes Stephenson picked up the three lions far to the left, where they
+were slowly making their way toward another ravine a mile or so beyond.
+
+Then began one of the strangest lion hunts ever recorded in African
+sporting annals.
+
+You may have read of the practice of "riding" lions. Doctor Rainsford,
+in his splendid book on lion hunting, describes this thrilling sport in
+such vivid words that you shiver as you read them. Mounted men gallop
+after the lion, bring it to bay, and then hold it there until the white
+hunter comes up to a close range and shoots it. In the meantime the
+cornered beast is charging savagely at the horsemen, who trust to the
+speed and quickness of their mounts to elude the angry rushes of the
+infuriated animal. It is a most spectacular method of lion hunting and
+is only eclipsed in danger and daring by the native method of
+surrounding a lion and spearing it to death.
+
+[Photograph: A Kikuyu Woman Uses Her Head]
+
+[Photograph: On the Athi Plains]
+
+[Photograph: It Was a Rakish Craft]
+
+To my knowledge, no one has ever "galloped" a lion in a carriage drawn
+by two mules, and probably few hunters have ever galloped three lions at
+one time under any conditions.
+
+It was a memorable chase. The mules were lashed into a gallop and the
+carriage rocked like a Channel steamer. We were gaining rapidly and the
+distance separating us from the lions was quickly diminishing. It seemed
+as if the three lions were not especially eager to escape, for they
+moved away slowly, as if half-inclined to turn upon us.
+
+[Drawing: _It Rocked Like a Channel Steamer_]
+
+We hoped to overtake them before they reached the ravine or such uneven
+ground as would compel us to abandon the carriage.
+
+Five hundred yards! Then four hundred yards, and soon three hundred
+yards. The mules were doing splendidly, and we knew that we should soon
+be within good shooting distance. At two hundred and fifty yards the
+largest of the two males, a great, black-maned lion, stopped and turned
+toward us. His two companions continued moving away toward the ravine.
+
+Thinking it a good moment to strike, we leaped from the carriage and
+knelt to fire. Stephenson shot at the big black-mane and I at the male
+that was retreating. Both shots missed. The black-mane resumed his
+retreat and we got in a couple more ineffectual shots before the three
+lions disappeared over the brow of the ravine.
+
+[Drawing: _At Two Hundred and Fifty Yards_]
+
+Once more in the carriage and another wild gallop as far as the vehicle
+would go. For a few moments we lost sight of the lions, but presently we
+saw them climbing up the opposite slope, four hundred yards away. It was
+a long distance to shoot, but we hoped to bring them to bay at least by
+wounding them into a fighting mood. The large lion turned and swung
+along the brow of the hill; the others disappeared over the opposite
+side, but they soon reappeared some distance farther to the right.
+
+Little spurts of dirt showed where our bullets were striking. Once I
+kicked up the ground just under him and once a shot from Stephenson
+passed so close to his nose that he ducked his head angrily.
+
+We became frantic with eagerness and continued disappointment. The
+thought of losing the finest lion we had seen on the whole trip was
+maddening, yet it seemed impossible to hit him.
+
+Then he disappeared and probably rejoined his companions in a retreat
+that led down into the ravine where it wound far away from us. There
+were patches of reeds in the ravine and it was there that I thought they
+would hide.
+
+Sending the carriage in a wide detour, we climbed across a spur of the
+ravine and tried to pick up the trail. Once I fell upon the rocks that
+lined the steep sides of the gully and cut my hand so deeply that the
+scar will always remain as a reminder of that eventful day. Stephenson
+kept to the top of the ridge, believing that the lions would continue
+across the ravine; I went into the ravine, thinking they would take
+cover in the reeds and might be scared out with a shot or two.
+
+But nothing could be seen of them, and after half an hour we rejoined on
+the top of the hill, where a wide view of the whole country was
+revealed.
+
+We sat down in despair. The greatest chance of the whole trip was gone.
+
+"That's the last we'll see of them," said I oracularly as I sat upon a
+stone. My hand was covered with blood, but alas! it was mine and not the
+lion's.
+
+The carriage appeared and we held a prolonged consolation meeting.
+Suddenly our general utility boy, Happy Bill, uttered a low cry of
+warning. We turned, and there, in the valley ahead of us, the three
+lions were again seen. They had evidently passed through the reeds
+without stopping and had continued across only a few yards from where we
+were now standing.
+
+Fate seemed determined to give us plenty of chances to get these lions.
+Again we opened fire on them at about four or five hundred yards. My
+big-gun ammunition was gone, so I fired with my .256.
+
+No result! The distance was too great and our bombardment was fruitless.
+The black-maned lion was in a bad humor and repeatedly turned as if
+intent to stop and defend his outraged dignity. In a few moments the
+three lions disappeared in the tall grass that fringed a big reed bed
+many acres in extent.
+
+For an hour we raked the reed bed with shot, hoping to drive them from
+cover. But that was the last we saw of the lions. A little bunch of
+waterbuck does were scared up, but nothing else. The lions were now
+safe, for nothing less than fifty beaters could hope to dislodge them
+from the dense security of the swamp.
+
+[Drawing: _It Would Have Been Historic_]
+
+Talk about dejection! Our ride back to town was as mournful as a ride
+could be. We thought of the glory of driving through the streets of
+Nairobi with a lion or two hanging over the back of the carriage. It
+would have been historic. Citizens would have talked of it for years. It
+would have taken an honored place in the lion-hunting literature of
+Africa, for no lion hunters have ever pursued a band of lions in a
+carriage and brought back a carriage-load of them.
+
+We almost regretted having had the chance that we so heartbreakingly
+lost.
+
+But we told about it when we struck town, and before the day was over it
+was the topic in hotels and clubs throughout the whole town of Nairobi.
+Everybody who had a gun was resolved to go out the next day, and
+interest was at a fever pitch.
+
+We went out again the following morning, shot at wildebeests at all
+known ranges, from two hundred yards up to five hundred yards--but our
+luck was against us. We came back empty-handed, and our chief reward for
+the morning's work was the great privilege of seeing both Mount Kenia,
+ninety miles north, and Kilima-Njaro, nearly two hundred miles
+southeast, as clear as a cameo against the lovely African sky.
+
+The lesson of this story is not so much a review of bad shooting or of
+bad luck. The thing that seems most noteworthy is that within six or
+seven miles from Nairobi, nearly all the time within sight of the
+house-tops of that town, we had seen fifteen varieties of wild game,
+some of which were present in great numbers.
+
+  Wildebeest
+  Hartebeest
+  Hyena
+  Jackal
+  Thompson's Gazelle
+  Lion
+  Rabbit
+  Waterbuck
+  Impalla
+  Giant Bustard
+  Ostrich
+  Wart-hog
+  Wild Dog
+  Steinbuck
+  Grant's Gazelle
+
+Surely there is still some game left in Africa.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+THE LAST WORD IN LION HUNTING. METHODS OF TRAILING, ENSNARING AND
+OTHERWISE OUTWITTING THE KING OF BEASTS. A CHAPTER OF ADVENTURES
+
+
+If some one were to start a correspondence course in lion hunting he
+would give diagrams and instructions showing how to kill a lion in about
+six different styles--namely:
+
+  The boma method.
+  The tall grass method.
+  The riding method.
+  The tree method.
+  The lariat method.
+  The spear method.
+
+This list does not include the Ananias method, formerly popular.
+
+The tree and boma methods are much esteemed by those sportsmen who wish
+to reduce personal danger to the least common denominator--the sportsmen
+who think discretion is the better part of valor and a hunter in a tree
+is worth two in the bush. The sportsman who confines himself to the tree
+method is entitled to receive a medal "for conspicuous caution in times
+of danger," and the loved ones at home need never worry about his safe
+return. For safe lion hunting the "tree" method would get "first prize,"
+while the "boma" method would receive honorable mention.
+
+The "tall grass" method is less popular in that the lion has some show
+and often succeeds in getting away to tell about it. It involves danger
+to all concerned.
+
+[Drawing: _Spearing Lions_]
+
+The "riding" method is also dangerous, for in it the hunter endeavors to
+"round up" or "herd" a lion by riding him to a standstill. When the lion
+is fighting mad he stops and turns upon his persecutors. This is when
+the obituary columns thrive.
+
+The "lariat" method is not as yet in general vogue, but I understand
+that "Buffalo" Jones, an American, succeeded in roping a lion as they
+rope cattle out west. It sounds diverting.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Dead Lion Is a Sign for
+Jubilation]
+
+[Photograph: A Dethroned King of Beasts]
+
+The "spear" method is that employed by natives, who, armed with spear
+and shield, surround a lion and then kill it with their spears. They
+invariably succeed, but not until a few of the spear-bearers are more or
+less Fletcherized by the lion. This method does not appeal to those who
+wish to get home to tell about it, and need not be considered at length
+in any correspondence course.
+
+[Drawing: _The Tree Method_]
+
+The tree method is comparatively simple. You build a platform in a tree
+and place a bait near it. Then you wait through the long, silent watches
+of the night for Felis Leo to appear. The method has few dangers. The
+chief one lies in falling asleep and tumbling out of the tree, but this
+is easily obviated by making the platform large enough for two or three
+men, two of whom may stretch out and sleep while the other one remains
+awake and keeps guard.
+
+When I went to Africa I resolved never to climb a tree. Later I resolved
+to try the tree method in order to get experience in a form of lion
+hunting that has many advocates among the valiant hunters who want lion
+skins at no expense to their own.
+
+Of course, there are some perils connected with this method of lion
+slaying. Mosquitoes may bite you, causing a dreadful fever that may
+later result in death in some lingering and costly form. Also the biting
+ants may pursue you up to your aery perch and take small but effective
+bites in many itchable but unscratchable points. These elements of
+danger are about the only ones encountered in the tree method of lion
+hunting, but then who could expect to kill lions without some degree of
+personal discomfort?
+
+My one and only tree experience was not particularly eventful. A large
+and commodious platform was built in the forks of a great tree in a
+district where the questing grunt of lions could be heard each night.
+The platform was comfortable; it only needed hot and cold running water
+to be a delightful place to spend a tropic night.
+
+I shot a hartebeest and had it dragged beneath the tree. Then my two
+native gunbearers and I made a satisfactory ascent to the platform. We
+had a thermos bottle filled with hot tea, and some odds and ends in the
+way of solid refreshments. We then stretched out in positions that
+commanded a view of the hartebeest and waited patiently for an obliging
+lion to come and be shot.
+
+Night came on and soon the landscape became shadowy and indistinct.
+Trees and bushes fused into vague black masses and the carcass of the
+bait could be located only because it seemed a shade more opaque than
+the opaque gloom around it. The more you looked at it the more elusive
+and shifting it seemed. The sights of the rifle were invisible, and the
+only way one could find the sight was by aiming at a star and then
+carefully lowering the direction of the weapon until it approximately
+pointed at the carcass.
+
+Of course, we were very still; even the stars were not more silent than
+we. And little by little the noises of an African night were heard,
+growing in volume until from all sides came the cries of night birds and
+the songs of insects and tree-toads. It was the apotheosis of
+loneliness. And thus we sat, with eyes straining to pierce the gloom
+that hedged us in. We could see no sign of life, yet all about us in
+those dark shadows there were thousands of creatures moving about on
+their nightly hunt.
+
+Suddenly there came the soft crescendo of a hyena's howl some place off
+in the night. It was answered by another, miles away; then another, far
+off in a still different direction. The scent of the bait was spreading
+to the far horizon and the keen-scented carrion-eaters had caught it and
+were hurrying to the feast.
+
+Then, after moments of waiting, the howls came from so near that they
+startled us. There seemed to be dozens of hyenas--a regular class
+reunion of them--yet not one could be seen in the "murky gloom." And
+then, a moment later, we heard the crunching of teeth and the slither of
+rending flesh, and we knew that a supper party of hyenas was gathered
+about the festal board below us. I was afraid that they would eat up the
+carcass and thus keep away the lions, so I fired a shot to scare them
+away. There was a quick rush of feet--then that dense, expectant silence
+once more. Soon some little jackals came and were shooed away. Then more
+hyenas came, were given their congé, and hurried off to the tall grass.
+And yet no lion. It was quite disappointing.
+
+At midnight, far off to the north, came the grunting voice of a lion. I
+waited eagerly for the next sound which would indicate whether the lure
+of the bait was beckoning him on. And soon the sound came, this time
+much nearer, and after a long silence there was a sharp, snarling grunt
+of a lion, followed by the panic-stricken rush of a hundred heavy hoofs.
+The conjunction of sounds told the story as definitely as if the whole
+scene lay bared to view. The lion had leaped upon a hartebeest,
+probably instantly breaking its neck, while the rest of the herd had
+galloped away in terror. And it had all happened within two or three
+hundred yards of the tree--yet nothing could be seen.
+
+At two o'clock the grunt of a lion was again heard far off to the south.
+It came steadily toward us, and at last there was no doubt about its
+destination. It was coming to the bait. How my eyes strained to pierce
+the darkness and how breathlessly I waited with rifle in readiness! But
+the lion only paused at the bait, and as I waited for it to settle down
+to its feast it went grunting away and the chance was gone. Perhaps it
+had already fed, or perhaps it was an unusually fastidious lion which
+desired to do its own killing.
+
+An hour or two later, both gunbearers asleep and one snoring peacefully,
+I became aware of a large animal feeding at the bait. Although no sound
+had preceded its coming, I thought it might be a lion, but feared that
+it was a hyena. I fired at the dark, shifting, black shadow and the roar
+of the big rifle shattered the silence like a clap of unexpected
+thunder. Then there was such a dense silence that it seemed to ring in
+one's ears.
+
+Had I hit or missed? That could not be decided until daybreak, for it is
+the height of folly to climb down from a tree to feel the pulse of a
+wounded lion.
+
+When daybreak came we made an investigation. Only the mangled remains of
+the carcass lay below. Later in the day some members of our party came
+across the dead body of a hyena lying about a hundred yards from the
+tree, partly hidden by a little clump of bushes. Its backbone was
+shattered by a .475 bullet.
+
+Thus ended my first and only adventure in the "tree method."
+
+The boma method is slightly more dangerous and much more exciting. A lot
+of thorn branches are twisted together in a little circle, within which
+the hunter sits and waits for his lion. As in the tree method, a bait is
+placed near the boma, twelve or fifteen yards away, and a little
+loophole is arranged in the tangle of thorn branches through which the
+rifle may be trained upon the bait.
+
+[Drawing: _The Boma Method_]
+
+The lion can not get into the boma unless he jumps up and comes in from
+the top. It is the function of the hunter to prevent this strategic
+manoeuver by killing the lion before he gets in. If he does not, he is
+likely to find himself engaged in a spirited hand-to-hand fight with an
+unfriendly lion in a space about as big as the upper berth of a
+sleeping-car.
+
+My first boma was a meshwork of thorns piled and interwoven together
+with the architectural simplicity of an Eskimo igloo. When it was
+finished there didn't seem to be the ghost of a chance of a lion getting
+in; but at night, as I looked out, it seemed frail indeed. Some dry
+grass was piled inside, with blankets spread over it to prevent
+rustling; and when night came we three, myself and two gunbearers,
+wormed our way in and then pulled some pieces of brush into the opening
+after us. The rifles were sighted on the bait while it was still
+daylight and at a spot where the expected lion might appear. Then we
+waited.
+
+The customary nocturne by birds, beasts and insects began before long,
+and several times hyenas and jackals came to the bait, but no lions. The
+boma was on the edge of a great swamp, miles in extent and a great
+rendezvous for game of many kinds. Theoretically, there couldn't be a
+better place to expect lions, but nary a lion appeared that night.
+
+Upon a later occasion--Christmas night, it was--I watched from a boma
+near an elephant we had killed, but except for the distant grunting of
+lions, there was nothing important to chronicle.
+
+Lion hunting goes by luck. One man may sit in a boma night after night
+without getting a shot, while another may go out once and bring back a
+black-mane. I spent two nights in a boma without seeing a lion;
+Stephenson spent seven nights and saw only a lioness. He held his fire
+in the expectation that the male was with her and would soon appear.
+Presently a huge beast appeared, vague in the dark shadows; he thought
+it was the male lion, shot, and the next morning found a large dead
+hyena.
+
+Mrs. Akeley went out only once, had a night of thrilling experiences,
+and killed a large male lion. The lion appeared early in the evening and
+her first shot just grazed the backbone. An inch higher and it would
+have missed, but as it was, the mere grazing of the backbone paralyzed
+the animal, preventing its escape. All night long it crouched helplessly
+before them, twelve yards away, insane with rage and fury. Its roars
+were terrifying. A number of times she shot, but in the darkness none of
+the many hits reached a vital spot. Once in the night two other lions
+came, but escaped after being fired at.
+
+As soon as daylight appeared and she could see the sights of her rifle
+she easily killed the lion. It was the largest one of the eleven killed
+in our hunting trip, and was killed with a little .256 Mannlicher, the
+same weapon with which she shot her record elephant on Mount Kenia.
+
+In the tall-grass method, native beaters are sent in long skirmish line
+through swamps and such places as lions like to lay up in during the
+hours of daylight. The beaters chant a weird and rather musical refrain
+as they advance and thrash the high reeds with their sticks. Reedbuck,
+sometimes a bushbuck, frequently hyenas, and many large owls are driven
+out of nearly every good-sized swamp. The hunters divide, one or more on
+each side of the swamp and slightly ahead of the line of beaters. As the
+lion springs out it is up to the hunter nearest to it to meet it with
+the traditional unerring shot.
+
+[Photograph: The Tree Method of Lion Shooting]
+
+[Photograph: Dragged a Zebra to the Boma]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Rifle Was Sighted on the
+Bait]
+
+In our experience we beat dozens of swamps and reed beds. Stephenson
+would take one side of the swamp, I the other, while Akeley with his
+moving-picture machine, would take the side best suited to photographic
+purposes. He got some wonderful results, two of which were records of
+the death of two lionesses.
+
+Upon the first of these occasions the beaters had worked down a long
+stretch of swamp and had almost reached the end. Suddenly they showed an
+agitated interest in something in front of them. They thought it was a
+lion until an innocent by-stander made an unauthorized guess that it was
+a hyena. This reassured the beaters and they advanced boldly in the
+belief that it was a harmless hyena. My valor rose in proportion and for
+the same reason, and I strolled bravely over to the edge of the reeds
+where a little opening appeared. It was something of a shock to see two
+lions stroll suddenly into view. I fired, hitting the last one. Then
+they both disappeared in the reeds ahead.
+
+It was amazing to note the sudden epidemic of caution upon the part of
+all concerned. The beaters refused to advance until Stephenson joined
+them with his big rifle. I moved forward on the side lines and the
+moving-picture machine reeled off yards of film.
+
+A man has to appear brave when a camera is turned on him, but with two
+lions a few feet away there was not a tendency to advance with that
+impetuous dash that one would like to see in a moving picture of
+oneself. Anyway, I tried to keep up an appearance of advancing without
+actually covering much territory.
+
+One of my gunbearers suddenly clutched my arm and pointed into the
+reeds. There, only a few feet away, was the tawny figure of a lion,
+either lying down or crouching. I fired and nearly blew its head off. It
+was the one I had wounded a few minutes before.
+
+[Drawing: _Photographed in Times of Danger_]
+
+There was still the other lion in the reeds. So I joined the beaters
+while Stephenson came out and took a commanding position at the side of
+the reeds. In a moment or two there was a tawny flash and the lion was
+seen as it broke from the reeds and sprang away up the hill. It was on
+the opposite side of the reeds from Stephenson, but his first shot hit
+it and it stopped and turned angrily. In another instant it would have
+charged, but a second shot from his rifle killed it instantly. Both of
+the animals were young lionesses of the same age and nearly full grown.
+
+Sometimes, when a lion is driven to bay in the tall grass at the end of
+a swamp, the beaters refuse to advance, and it then becomes necessary
+for the hunter to go in and take the lead. An occasion of this sort was
+among the most thrilling of my African experiences.
+
+An immense swamp had been beaten out and nothing had developed until the
+beaters were almost at the end of the swamp. Extending from the end and
+joining it was a patch of wire-like reeds, eight or ten feet high and
+covering two or three acres. This high grass was almost impenetrable by
+a man, and it was only possible to go through it by throwing one's
+weight forward and crushing down the dense growth. The grass grew from
+hummocks, between which were deep water channels. An animal could glide
+through these channels, but a man must batter his way through the
+stockade of dense grass that spread out above.
+
+It was in this place that the lion was first heard and the beaters
+refused to follow it in. Guttural grunts and snarls came from that
+uninviting jungle, and we knew that the only way to force the lion out
+was to go in and drive it out.
+
+At about this time another lion came out of the swamp behind and loped
+up the hill. The saises were sent galloping after it to round it up, but
+they reappeared after a few moments and reported that it had got away in
+the direction of a huge swamp a mile or so beyond. We began to think we
+had struck a nest of lions.
+
+Then we went in to drive out that lion in the deep grass. The native
+beaters, encouraged by seeing armed white men leading the way, came
+along with renewed enthusiasm. That grass was something terrible. One
+would hardly care to go through it if he knew that a bag of gold or a
+fairy princess awaited him beyond; with a lion there, the delight of the
+job became immeasurably less. We could not see three feet ahead. From
+time to time we were floundering down into channels of water hidden by
+the density of the grass. Some of these channels were two feet deep. And
+with each yard of advance came the realization that we were coming to an
+inevitable show-down with that lion. Akeley and I were in with the
+beaters, Stephenson was beyond the patch of grass to intercept the lion
+should it break forth, from cover.
+
+It was not until we had nearly traversed the entire patch of reeds that
+the lion was found. It evidently lay silently ahead of us until we were
+almost upon it. Then, almost beneath my feet, came the angry and ominous
+growl, and my Somali gunbearer leaped in terror, falling as he did so. I
+expected to see a long, lean flash of yellow body and to experience the
+sensation of being mauled by a lion. All was breathlessly silent for a
+moment. Then a shot from Stephenson's rifle said that the lion had burst
+from the reeds and into view.
+
+We pushed our way out to see what had happened.
+
+The lion had come out, then turned suddenly back into the cover of
+reeds, working its way along the front of the beaters. For an instant
+Stephenson saw it and fired into the grass ahead of it without result.
+
+The track of the lion was followed, but the animal had succeeded in
+getting around the beaters and back into the swamp. Fires were lighted,
+but the reeds were too green to burn except in occasional spots.
+
+A few minutes later the saises, posted like sentinels high on the hills
+that flanked the swamp, saw the lion again and galloped down to head it
+off. It left the swamp and continued on down the rush-lined banks of a
+stream, zigzagging its way back and forth. After a pursuit of a couple
+of miles it was cornered in a small patch of reeds. Further retreat was
+impossible and it knew that it had to fight.
+
+The moving-picture machine was set up on one side and I was detailed to
+guard that side. If the lion came out it was to be allowed to charge a
+certain distance, within forty feet, before I was to fire. If it didn't
+charge at us, but attempted to escape, it was to be allowed to run
+across the strip of open ground in front of the camera before I was to
+shoot.
+
+Stephenson took his place on the other bank, twenty-five or thirty yards
+from the edge of the reeds. Then the beaters were told to advance, and
+they moved forward, throwing rocks and sticks into the reeds ahead of
+them. The lion appeared on Stephenson's side. Like a flash it sprang
+out. He fired and the lion stopped momentarily under the impact of a
+heavy ball. Then it sprang a few yards onward, when a second shot laid
+it out. The last shot was fired at less than twenty yards.
+
+The moving-picture machine recorded the thrilling scene and there was an
+hour of great rejoicing and jubilation. The animal was an old lioness
+and the first shot had torn her lower jaw away and had gone into the
+shoulder. It is amazing that she was not instantly killed--but that's a
+way lions have. They never know when to quit.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+ABDULLAH THE COOK AND SOME INTERESTING GASTRONOMICAL EXPERIENCES.
+THIRTEEN TRIBES REPRESENTED IN THE SAFARI. ABDI'S STORY OF HIS UNCLE AND
+THE LIONS
+
+
+Our cook was a dark-complexioned man between whom and the ace of spades
+there was considerable rivalry. He was of that deadly night shade. He
+was the darkest spot on the Dark Continent. After dark he blended in
+with the night so that you couldn't tell which was cook and which was
+night.
+
+His name was Abdullah, his nature was mild and gentle, and his skill in
+his own particular sphere of action was worthy of honorable mention by
+all refined eaters. He was about fifty or sixty years of age, five feet
+tall, with a smile varying from four to six inches from tip to tip. It
+was a smile that came often, and when really unfurled to its greatest
+width it gave the pleasing effect of a dark face ambushed behind a row
+of white tombstones.
+
+When Abdullah joined our _safari_ it was freely predicted that he would
+do well for the first month or so, after which he would fade away to
+rank mediocrity; but, strangely enough, he became better and better as
+time went on, and during our last two weeks was springing culinary coups
+that excited intense interest on our part. He had a way of assembling a
+few odds and ends together that finally merged into a rice pudding par
+excellence, while his hot cakes were so good that we spoke of them in
+rapt, reverential whispers. There wasn't a twinge of indigestion in a
+"three by six" stack of them, and when flooded with a crown of liquid
+honey they made one think of paradise and angels' choruses.
+
+Quite naturally, in my wanderings of nine months there were moments when
+my thoughts dwelt upon such material things as "vittles," and it was
+instructive to compare the various kinds of food served on a dozen
+ships, a score of hotels, and a hundred camps. Some were good and some
+were bad, but as viewed in calm retrospect I think that Abdullah
+excelled all other chefs, taking him day in and day out.
+
+Upon only three occasions was he vanquished, but these were memorable
+ones. As food is a pleasant topic, perhaps I may be pardoned if I dwell
+fondly upon these three red-letter days in my memory.
+
+One was in Paris. The night that we started for Africa a merry little
+company dined at Henry's. That distinguished master was given _carte
+blanche_ to get up the best dinner known to culinary science, and he had
+a day's start. Everything was delicious. The dinner was a symphony,
+starting in a low key and gradually working up in a stirring crescendo
+until the third course, where it reached supreme heights in climacteric
+effect. That third course, if done in music, would have sent men
+cheering to the cannon's mouth or galloping joyously in a desperate
+cavalry charge.
+
+[Photograph: One of Our Askaris]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Hassan Mohammed]
+
+The dish was called "poulet archduc," although I should have called it
+at least poulet archangel. In this divine creation Henry reached the
+Nirvana of good things to eat. I beseeched him for the recipe, which he
+cheerfully wrote out, so now I am happy to pass it along that all may
+try it. It really ought to be dramatized.
+
+I transcribe it in M. Henry's own verbiage:
+
+  The chicken must be well cleaned inside. Next put in it some butter,
+  salt and pepper, a little paprika, and into full of sweet corn, then
+  close the chicken. Next put it in a saucepan with other more sweet
+  corn, against butter, salt, pepper, a little whisky; cook about half
+  of one hour.
+
+  The best sweet corn is the California sweet corn in can.
+
+  The sauce is done with white of chicken. Squeeze two yolks of eggs and
+  butter like for a sauce mousseline and finish it with a little whisky.
+
+And there you are.
+
+The second occasion came some months later. We had been on _safari_ for
+several weeks and had returned to Nairobi for two or three days. It was
+the "psychological moment" for something new in the way of food. The
+stage was all set for it, and it came in the form of a pudding that
+would have delighted all the gastronomes and epicures of history. We
+called it the Newland-Tarlton pudding, because it was the joint creation
+of Mrs. Newland and Mrs. Tarlton. One wrote the poetry in it and the
+other set it to music. We ate it so thoroughly that the plates looked as
+clean as new. Cuninghame was there, dressed up for the first time in
+months, and the way that pudding disappeared behind his burly beard was
+suggestive of the magic of Kellar or Herrmann.
+
+The recipe of this pudding is worthy of export to the United States, so
+here it is. It really is a combination of two puddings, served together
+and eaten at the same time.
+
+  THE NEWLAND BANANA CUSTARD
+
+  Boil three large cupfuls of milk. Mix a tablespoonful of corn flour
+  with a little cold milk just to make it into a paste. Add four eggs
+  well beaten and mix together with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Put
+  into the boiled milk and stir until it thickens, but don't let it
+  boil. When taken off add one teaspoonful of vanilla essence. Cut up
+  ten bananas and put in a dish. Pour custard on when cool.
+
+  PRUNE SHAPE (A LA TARLTON)
+
+  Stew one-half pound prunes until quite soft. Remove stones and cut
+  prunes small. Dissolve one-half ounce gelatin and add to one-quarter
+  pound sugar, prunes, and kernels. Pour into wetted mold to cool, first
+  adding one-half glass of sherry. Must be served with banana cream (the
+  Newland).
+
+The third occasion made memorable by a delicious epoch-making dish I
+shall not specify, as we have dined with many friends during the last
+nine months. Let it be sufficient if I say that it was at one of these
+dinners or luncheons.
+
+In our varied gastronomical experiences we found that the cooking on the
+English ships was usually bad, while that on the German ships was good,
+excepting the ship that took us from Naples to Mombasa. The Dutch ships
+were the best of all and the Dutch hotels in Java were the best we
+struck outside of Paris and London. In comparison with the Hotel des
+Indes, in Batavia, all the rest of the hotels of the Orient can be
+mentioned only in a furtive way. It was a revelation of excellence, in
+perfect keeping with the charm and beauty of Java as a whole.
+
+But we were speaking of things to eat.
+
+At the Hotel des Indes they served us a modest little dish called rice
+tafel, or "rijs-tafel." You have to go to luncheon early in order to eat
+it before dinner time. It was served by twenty-four waiters, marching in
+single file, the line extending from the kitchen to the table and then
+returning by a different line of march to the kitchen. It was fifteen
+minutes passing a given point. Each waiter carried a dish containing one
+of the fifty-seven ingredients of the grand total of the rice tafel. You
+helped yourself with one arm until that got tired, then used the other.
+When you were all ready to begin your plate looked like a rice-covered
+bunker on a golf course.
+
+[Drawing: _The Rice Tafel in Java_]
+
+Rice tafel is a famous dish in Java. It is served at tiffin, and after
+you have eaten it you waddle to your room in a congested state and sleep
+it off. After my first rice tafel I dreamed I was a log jam and that
+lumber jacks with cant hooks were trying to pry me apart.
+
+As the recipe for rice tafel is not to be found in any cook book on
+account of its length, we give it here even if you won't believe it. To
+a large heap of rice add the following:
+
+MEAT AND FISH
+
+  Spiced beef, deviled soup meat, both fried with cocoanut shreds.
+
+  Minced pork, baked.
+
+  Fried fish, soused fish, and baked fish.
+
+  Fried oysters and whitebait.
+
+
+SPICES
+
+  Red fish.
+
+  Deviled shrimps, chutney.
+
+  Deviled pistachio nuts.
+
+  Deviled onions sliced with pimentos.
+
+  Deviled chicken giblets.
+
+  Deviled banana tuft.
+
+  Pickled cucumbers.
+
+  Cucumber plain (to cool the palate after hot ingredients).
+
+
+FOWL, FRUIT, ETC.
+
+  Roast chicken, plain.
+
+  Steamed chicken with chilis.
+
+  Monkey nuts fried in paste.
+
+  Flour chips with fish lime (called grapak and kripak).
+
+  Fried brinjals without the seeds.
+
+  Fried bananas.
+
+
+JUICES
+
+  Yellow--(One) of curry powder with chicken giblets and bouillon.
+
+  Brown--(Two) of celery, haricot beans, leeks and young cabbage.
+
+
+  One quart of American pale ale to drink during the "rice tafel."
+
+Our cook Abdullah was not the only interesting type in our _safari_.
+Among our dusky colleagues there were thirteen different tribes
+represented. It was a congress of nations and a babel of tongues. Some
+of the porters became conspicuous figures early in the march, while some
+were so lacking in individuality that they seemed like new-comers even
+after four months out.
+
+[Drawing: _The "Chantecler" of Our Safari_]
+
+Of this latter class Hassan Mohammed was not one.
+
+Hassan was my chief gunbearer, and for pious devotion to the Mohammedan
+faith he was second to none. He was the "Chantecler" of our outfit.
+Every morning at four o'clock, regardless of the weather, he would crawl
+out of his tent, drape himself in a white sheet, and cry out his prayers
+to Mecca. It was his voice that woke the camp, and the immediate answer
+to his prayers was sometimes quite irreverent, especially from the
+Wakamba porters, who were accustomed to sit up nearly all night
+gambling.
+
+Hassan was a Somali, strictly honest and faithful. He had the Somali's
+love of a rupee, and there was no danger or hardship that he would not
+undergo in the hope of backsheesh. It is the African custom to
+backsheesh everybody when a lion is killed, so consequently the Somalis
+were always looking for lions. Perhaps he also prayed for them each
+morning.
+
+When we started we had four Somali gunbearers, each of whom rose at dawn
+to pray. As we got up in the high altitudes, where the mornings were
+bitter cold, the number of suppliants dwindled down to one, and Hassan
+was the sole survivor. No cold or rain or early rising could cool the
+fierce religious ardor that burned within him.
+
+Long before daybreak we would hear his voice raised in a singsong prayer
+full of strange runs and weird minors. The lions that roared and grunted
+near the camp would pause in wonder and then steal away as the sound of
+Hassan's devotions rang out through the chilly, dew-laden dawn. And as
+if fifteen minutes of morning prayer was not enough to keep him even
+with his religious obligations, he went through two more long recitals
+in the afternoon and at night.
+
+I sometimes thought that behind his fervent ardor there was a
+considerable pride in his voice, for he introduced many interesting
+by-products of harmony that sounded more or less extraneous to both
+music and prayer. Nevertheless, Hassan was consistent. He never lied, he
+never stole, and it was part of his personal creed of honor to stand by
+his master in case of danger. Somali gunbearers are a good deal of a
+nuisance about a camp, partly because they are the aristocrats of Africa
+and demand large salaries, but chiefly because they require certain
+kinds of food that their religion requires them to eat. This is often
+difficult to secure when far from sources of supplies, and in
+consequence the equilibrium of camp harmony is sorely disturbed.
+
+They are avaricious and money loving to a deplorable degree, but there
+is one thing that can be said for the Somali. He will never desert in
+time of danger and will cheerfully sacrifice himself for his master. He
+has the stamina of a higher type of civilization, and in comparison to
+him the lately reclaimed savage is not nearly so dependable in a crisis.
+
+I sometimes suspected that Hassan was not really a gunbearer, but was
+merely a "camel man" who was tempted from his flocks by the high pay
+that African gunbearers receive. Notwithstanding this, he was
+courageous, faithful, willing, honest, good at skinning, and personally
+an agreeable companion during the months that we were together. I got to
+like him and often during our rests after long hours afield we would
+talk of our travels and adventures.
+
+[Photograph: Jumma, the Tent Boy]
+
+[Photograph: Abdullah, the Cook]
+
+One day we stopped at the edge of the Molo River. A little bridge
+crossed the stream and I remembered that the equator is supposed to pass
+directly across the middle of this bridge. It struck me as being quite
+noteworthy, so I tried to tell Hassan all about it. I was hampered
+somewhat because he didn't know that the world was round, but after some
+time I got him to agree to that fact. Then by many illustrations I
+endeavored to describe the equator and told him it crossed the bridge.
+He got up and looked, but seemed unconvinced as well as unimpressed.
+Then I told him that it was an imaginary line that ran around the world
+right where it was fullest--half way between the north pole and the
+south pole. He brightened up at this and hastened to tell me that he had
+heard of the north pole from a man on a French ship. As I persevered in
+my geographical lecture he gradually became detached from my point of
+view, and when we finished I was talking equator and he was talking
+about a friend of his who had once been to Rotterdam.
+
+The lecture was a "draw." But I noticed with satisfaction that when we
+walked across the bridge he looked furtively between each crack as if
+expecting to see something.
+
+It was rather a curious thing, speaking of Hassan, to observe the
+respect with which the other natives treated his daily religious
+devotions. He was the only one in camp who prayed--at least openly--and
+as he knelt and bowed and went through the customary form of a
+Mohammedan prayer there was never the slightest disposition to make fun
+of him. In a camp of one hundred white men I feel sure that one of them
+who prayed aloud three times a day would hardly have escaped a good deal
+of irreverent ridicule from those about him. The natives in our camp
+never dreamed of questioning Hassan's right to worship in any way he
+pleased and the life and activities of the camp flowed along smoothly as
+if unconscious of the white-robed figure whose voice sang out his
+praises of Allah. The whole camp seemed to have a deep respect for
+Hassan.
+
+Abdi, our head-man, was also a Somali, but of a different tribe. He was
+from Jubaland and had lived many years with white men. In all save color
+he was more white than black. He was handsome, good-tempered, efficient,
+and so kind to his men that sometimes the discipline of the camp
+suffered because of it. It was Abdi's duty to direct the porters in
+their work of moving camp, distributing loads, pitching camp, getting
+wood for the big camp-fires, punishing delinquents and, in fact, to see
+that the work of the _safari_ was done.
+
+One night after we had been most successful in a big lion hunt during
+the day Abdi came to the mess tent, where we were lingering over a
+particularly good dinner. Abdi asked for his orders for the following
+day and then, seeing that we were in a talkative mood, he stopped a
+while to join in the stories of lion hunting.
+
+After a time he told two of his own that he had brought from his boyhood
+home in Jubaland. They were so remarkable that you don't have to believe
+them unless you want to.
+
+[Drawing: _Abdi's Uncle and the Man-Eaters_]
+
+
+ABDI'S STORY ABOUT HIS UNCLE AND THE LIONS
+
+  "Once upon a time my uncle, who was a great runner, encountered six
+  man-eating lions sitting in the road. He took his spear and tried to
+  kill them, but they divided, three on each side of the road. So he
+  took to his heels. To the next town it was twelve hours' march, but he
+  ran it in ten hours, the lions in hot pursuit every minute of the
+  time. When he reached the town he jumped over the thorn bush zareba,
+  and the lions, close behind him, jumped over after him and were killed
+  by his spear, one after the other."
+
+
+ABDI'S STORY ABOUT THE WILY SOMALI AND THE LION
+
+  "Once upon a time there was a Somali who was warned not to go down a
+  certain road on account of the man-eating lions. But he started out,
+  armed with knife and spear. For a week he marched, sleeping in the
+  trees at night and marching during the day. One day he suddenly came
+  upon a big lion sitting in the road. He stopped, sharpening a little
+  stick which he held in his left hand. Then he wrapped his 'tobe' or
+  blanket around his left hand and arm. He then advanced to the lion and
+  when it opened its mouth to bite him he thrust the sharp stick inside,
+  up and down, thus gagging the lion. Then with his two hands he held
+  the lion by its ears for three days. He couldn't let go because the
+  lion would maul him with its heavy paws. He was thus in quite a fix.
+
+[Drawing: _He Hastily Cut a Stick_]
+
+  "Finally another Somali came along and he asked the new-comer to hold
+  the lion while he killed it with his spear. The other Somali consented
+  and seized the lion by the ears. Then the first Somali laughed long
+  and loud and said, 'I've held him three days, now you hold him three
+  days.' Then he strolled down the road and disappeared. For seven days
+  the second Somali held the lion and then by the same subterfuge turned
+  it over to a third Somali. By this time the lion was pretty tired, so
+  after one day the Somali shook the lion hard and then took out his
+  knife and stabbed it to death."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Sulimani was my second gunbearer. His name wasn't Sulimani, but some one
+gave him that name because his own Kikuyu name was too hard to pronounce
+and impossible to remember. Sulimani was quite a study. He had the
+savage's love of snuff, and when not eating or sleeping he was taking
+pinches of that narcotic from an old kodak tin. In consequence he had
+the chronic appearance of being full of dope. He walked along as though
+in a trance. He never seemed to be looking anywhere except at the
+stretch of trail directly in front of him. His thoughts were far away,
+or else there were no thoughts at all. I often watched him and wondered
+what he was thinking about.
+
+Sulimani was really one of the best natural hunters in the whole
+_safari_. He had a native instinct for tracking that was wonderful; he
+had courage that was fatalistic, and he seemed to know what an animal
+would do and where it would go under certain conditions. Beneath that
+dopy somnolence of manner his senses were alert and his eyes were
+usually the first to see distant game.
+
+He had originally been a porter when we started out, but I gave him a
+new suit of khaki and promoted him to the position of second gunbearer.
+As long as we were in touch with civilization he kept that khaki suit in
+a condition of spotlessness, but when we got out in the wilds, away from
+the girls, it soon became stiff with blood-stains and dirt. The natural
+savage instinct became predominant; he reverted to type.
+
+His jaunty red fez was replaced by a headgear made of the beautiful skin
+of a Uganda cob. Ostrich and maribou feathers stuck out from the top,
+while upon his feet were sandals made from the thick skin of a
+waterbuck. A zebra tail was fashioned into a sheath for his
+skinning-knife, so that, little by little, he resolved himself back into
+a condition of savage splendor. He usually did most of my skinning, and
+that being dirty work, I was disposed to be tolerant with the
+disgraceful condition of his khaki suit.
+
+Finally we approached civilization once more, and I told Sulimani that
+he'd have to clean up, otherwise the girls wouldn't like him. I gave him
+half a day off to wash his clothes, and he dutifully disappeared from
+society for that period. When he once more turned up he was resplendent
+in his clean clothes. As we marched along toward Nairobi he broke his
+long silence by bursting into song. For a day or two it was the wonder
+of the camp, but he was quite unconscious of it. Music was in his soul
+and the germ of love was churning it up. And so he sang as he marched
+along, and his thoughts were racing ahead of him to the "sing sing"
+girls who wait in Nairobi for returning porters with rupees to spend.
+
+The general average of health in the _safari_ was high. Only one porter
+died in the four months or more that we were out. But in spite of the
+low mortality there were many cases that came up for treatment. Akeley,
+with his long experience as a hunter and explorer, acted as the health
+department of the camp. His three or four remedies for all ills were
+quinine, calomel, witch-hazel, and zinc oxide adhesive plaster. And it
+was simply amazing what those four things could do when applied to the
+naturally healthy constitutions of the blacks. He cured a bowed tendon
+with witch-hazel and adhesive plaster in three or four days. A white man
+would have gone to a hospital for weeks.
+
+There were two common complaints. One was fever, but the fiercest fever
+took to its heels when charged by General Quinine and General Calomel.
+The other and more common complaint rose from abrasions and cuts. There
+was always a string of porters lined up for treatment and each went away
+happy with large pieces of adhesive plaster decorating his ebony skin. A
+simple piece of this plaster cured the worst and most inflamed cut, and
+it was seldom that a man came back for a second treatment. The plaster
+remained on until, weeks afterward, it fell off from sheer weariness.
+
+And once in a while there would be knife wounds, for whenever we killed
+a zebra as meat for the porters there would be a frenzied fight over the
+body. Each man, with knife out, was fighting for the choice pieces. It
+was like a scrimmage of human vultures--fighting, clawing, slashing and
+rending, with blood and meat flying about in a horrifying manner. I used
+to marvel that many were not killed, because each one was armed with a
+knife and each one was frenzied with savage greed. However, only once in
+a while did we have to treat the injured from this cause. Two men could
+fight for ten minutes over a piece of meat or a bone, but when finally
+the ownership was settled the victor could toss his meat to the ground
+with the certainty that no one else would take it.
+
+Jumma was my tent boy--a Wakamba with filed teeth. Jumma is the Swahili
+word for Friday and is about as common a name in East Africa as John is
+in white communities. I suppose I ought to call him "my man Friday," but
+he was so dignified that no one would dream of taking such a liberty
+with him. Jumma's thoughts ran to clothes. He wore a neat khaki
+suit--blouse and "shorts," a pair of blue puttees, a pair of stout
+shoes, and a dazzling red fez, from which sprang a long waving ostrich
+feather. My key ring hung at his belt, while around his wrist a neat
+watch was fastened. The longest march, through mud and rain and wind and
+sun, would find him as trim and clean at the finish as though he had
+just stepped out of a bandbox. Jumma had the happy faculty of never
+looking rumpled, a trick which I tried hard to learn, but all in vain.
+He was as black as ebony, yet his features were like those of a
+Caucasian; in fact, he strikingly resembled an old Chicago friend.
+
+[Photograph: Sulimani--Second Gunbearer]
+
+[Photograph: The Mess Tent]
+
+[Photograph: Where the Equator Crosses the Molo]
+
+Among our porters there were many types of features, and in a curious
+way many of them resembled people we had known at home. One porter had
+the eyes and expression of a young north-side girl; another had the walk
+and features of a prominent young Chicago man; and so on.
+
+Saa Sitaa was one of our brightest porters. His name means "Six O'clock"
+in Swahili, six o'clock in the native reckoning being our noon and our
+midnight. Just why he was given this significant name I never
+discovered. Perhaps he was born at that hour. It always used to amuse me
+to hear Abdi calling out, "_Enjani hapa, Saa Sitaa_"--"Come here, Six
+O'clock."
+
+Baa Baa was a porter who always used to sing a queer native chant in
+which those words were predominant. He would sing it by the hour while
+on the march, and before long his real name was replaced by the new one.
+Henceforth he will, no doubt, continue to be Baa Baa. He was promoted
+from porter to camera-bearer, but one day he could not be found when
+most needed, and he was reduced back to the ranks. I never heard him
+sing again. His heart was broken.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+BACK HOME FROM AFRICA. NINETY DAYS ON THE WAY THROUGH INDIA, JAVA,
+CHINA, MANILA AND JAPAN. THREE CHOW DOGS AND A FINAL SERIES OF AMUSING
+ADVENTURES
+
+
+At last the day came for us to say good-by to the happy hunting grounds
+and return to the perils and dangers of civilization. Occasional
+newspapers had filtered into the wild places and in the peaceful
+security of our tents we had read of frightful mining disasters in
+America, of unparalleled floods in France, of the clash and jangle of
+rival polar explorers, of disasters at sea, of rioting and lynching in
+Illinois. Automobile accidents were chronicled with staggering
+frequency, and there were murmurs of impending rebellions in India,
+political crises in England, feverish war talk in Germany, volcanic
+threats from Mount Etna, and a bewildering lot of other dreadful things.
+
+In contrast to this dire picture of life in civilized places, our
+pleasant days among the lions and wild beasts of Africa seemed curiously
+peaceful and orderly. Now we were to leave--to go back into the
+maelstrom of the busy places and bid farewell to our friendly savages
+and genial camp-fires. The Akeleys were remaining some months longer,
+but Stephenson and I were scheduled to leave.
+
+[Photograph: Just Before Saying Good-by to My Horse]
+
+[Photograph: Manila Bay]
+
+[Photograph: The Boro Boedoer Ruins]
+
+
+There were a few busy days in Nairobi. The horses were sold, the porters
+were paid off, the trophies were prepared for shipment, and our camp
+outfits and guns were either sold or packed for their journey homeward.
+There were affectionate and rather tearful partings from good friends,
+then a quick railway trip to the coast and a day or two of waiting in
+Mombasa. The hunting was over. Now it was a mere matter of getting home
+in ninety days, and for variety's sake we elected to go home through
+India, Java, China, and Japan. I was curious to note the changes that
+those countries had undergone since I had last seen them years before.
+
+We had some mild adventures. The first occurred in Mombasa, and concerns
+the strange conduct of two little white dogs that flashed in and out of
+our lives.
+
+One day when I returned to my room in the hotel at Mombasa I was
+surprised to find that two small dogs had established themselves
+therein. The room boy knew nothing about them; the people around the
+hotel did not remember having ever seen them before. No clue to their
+owner was obtainable, and we regarded their advent as something of a
+mild kind of miracle. They played about the room as if they had long
+been there. When we went out they were at our heels and in the course of
+our wanderings through the old streets of the town the two dogs were
+always close at hand, or, rather, close at feet. When I worked in the
+room at the hotel they lay on the floor or played near my table and made
+no effort to rush away to the many temptations of the warm sunshine
+outside. I became much attached to them. Such steadfast devotion from
+strange dogs is always flattering.
+
+Then our ship, the _Umzumbi_, South Africa to Bombay, came into the
+harbor and anchored a quarter of a mile out from the custom-house dock.
+We decided to go out and visit her and accordingly shut the door to
+prevent the two little dogs from joining us. Before we reached the dock
+they were with us, however, having escaped some way or other. And when
+we got into the rowboat to go out they looked appealingly after us from
+the dripping steps of the boat landing. We were sorry, but really we
+couldn't take them to the ship.
+
+[Drawing: _The Two Dogs of Mombasa_]
+
+Suddenly there was a splash, and one of the little dogs was bravely
+swimming after us. He wasn't built for swimming, but he was making a
+gallant effort. We stopped and picked him up, a drippy but grateful
+little creature. Then we had to row back to get the other one. By much
+strategy we succeeded in getting on board the _Umzumbi_ without taking
+them with us, but as we were not sailing until the afternoon we stayed
+on board only long enough to see that our state-room arrangements were
+satisfactory and to meet the chief steward.
+
+On our way back through the town the dogs got lost from us, but when we
+reached the room at the hotel they were comfortably installed in the
+square of sunshine that streamed through the window. They refused to
+break home ties. Several more times that day we executed elaborate
+manoeuvers to lose them without the painful formality of saying
+good-by. But all in vain. We tried to give them away and finally
+succeeded in persuading one woman from up Uganda way that they would be
+useful to her.
+
+She was considering the matter when we, feeling like heartless
+criminals, stole away from the room, leaving it locked, and leaving two
+trustful and trusting little dogs incarcerated within. We told the
+proprietor of our dastardly conduct, but cautioned him not to liberate
+the captives until the steamer was hull down on the horizon. So by this
+time I suppose there are two little white dogs searching Mombasa for two
+missing Americans and wondering at the duplicity of human nature.
+
+We imagined that the ship from Mombasa to Bombay would be nearly
+uninhabited by passengers. Few people are supposed to cross that part of
+the Indian Ocean. But when we embarked on the _Umzumbi_ on February
+first we found the ship full. There were British army officers bound for
+India, rich Parsees bound from Zanzibar to Bombay, two elderly American
+churchmen bound from the missionary fields of Rhodesia to inspect the
+missionary fields of India; two or three traveling men, a South African
+legislator bound for India on recreation bent, and a few others.
+
+After leaving Mombasa our travels were upon crowded ships, on crowded
+trains, and from one crowded hotel to another crowded hotel. It seemed
+as if the whole world had suddenly decided to see the rest of the world.
+
+Bombay was crowded and we barely succeeded in getting rooms at the Taj
+Mahal. There were swarms of Americans outward bound and inward bound.
+You couldn't go down a street without encountering scores of new sun
+hats and red-bound "Murrays." The taxicabs were full of eager faces
+peering out inquiringly at the monuments and points of interest that
+flashed past.
+
+The train to Agra was crowded and we succeeded in getting reservations
+only by the skin of our teeth. Also the hotels at Agra were jammed and
+many people were being turned away, while the procession of carriages
+jogging out toward the Taj Mahal was like an endless chain. Upon all
+sides as you paused in spellbound rapture before the most beautiful
+building in the world, you heard the voice of the tourist explaining the
+beauties of the structure.
+
+[Drawing: _During the Tourist Rush_]
+
+The Taj Mahal is justly called the most beautiful edifice in the world.
+It is so exquisite in its architecture and its ornamentation that one
+may believe the story that it was designed by a poet and constructed by
+a jeweler. It was built by Shah Jehan as a memorial to his wife and for
+centuries it has stood as a token of his great love for her.
+
+When I visited it this year I was surprised to find that Lord Curzon had
+placed within the great marble dome a hanging lamp as a memorial to his
+own wife. It seemed like a shocking piece of presumption--much as if the
+president of France should hang a memorial to one of his own family over
+the sarcophagus of Napoleon, or a president of the United States should
+do the same at Washington's tomb at Mount Vernon. It seemed like an
+inexpensive way of diverting the most beautiful structure of the world
+to personal uses.
+
+And yet later I was compelled to modify this opinion when I saw how much
+excellent work Lord Curzon did toward restoring the old palaces of Agra
+and preserving them for future generations. As a reward for this work,
+perhaps, there may have been some justification in placing a memorial
+lamp in the dome of the Taj, especially as the lamp is exquisite in
+workmanship and adds rather than detracts from the stately beauty of the
+interior. But just the same the first verdict of the spectator is that
+Lord Curzon displayed a colossal egotism in so doing.
+
+The tourist's beaten track in India was as thronged with American
+sightseers as the château country in France. Lucknow was crowded,
+Benares was crowded, Calcutta was crowded, and the trains that ran in
+all directions were crowded. A traveler wore a look of perpetual anxiety
+lest he should fail to get hotel or railway accommodations.
+
+The India of one's imagination--the somber land of mystery, of untold
+riches, of eastern enchantment, of far-away romance--was gone, buried
+under picture post-cards, hustling tourists, and all the commonplaces of
+a popular tourist track. It was distinctly disappointing from one point
+of view, and yet, I suppose, one should rejoice that his fellow
+countrymen have cash and energy enough to travel in distant places, even
+though they destroy the romantic charm of those places by so doing.
+
+[Drawing: _Tourists in India_]
+
+The rush of Americans through India was as brisk as was the rush of
+Americans through Europe ten years ago. Age was no handicap. There were
+old couples, sixty, seventy, and eighty years old, jogging along as
+eagerly and excitedly as young bridal couples. The conversation one
+encountered was always pretty much the same--how such a train was
+crowded, how accommodations could not be secured at such a hotel, how
+poor the hotels were, and how long they would have to wait to get a
+berth on some outgoing ship. There were many people hung up in Bombay
+and Calcutta vainly trying to get away, but the boats were booked full
+for two or more voyages ahead.
+
+One of the peculiarities of Indian travel has been the fact that most
+tourists plan to be in India during December, January and February.
+Hence they arrive in bunches, and try to get away in a bunch, which is
+impossible owing to the limited capacity of the steamships. This year
+the swarms of tourists have been so great that many of them could not
+get out of the country until late in March and along in April.
+
+The Americans have become the great travelers of the world. In India
+there are two American tourists for one of all other nationalities. The
+hotel registers bristle with U.S.A. addresses and the shops and hotels
+regard the American trade as being the most profitable. One desirable
+result of the American tendency to fare afield has been the steady
+improvement in hotel and railway accommodations in the Far East.
+
+We said good-by to India without much regret; in fact, we were elated to
+secure accommodations on a small Indo-China boat that made the run to
+Penang and Singapore in about eight days. No berths could be secured on
+the ships that go by the way of Burma. Those ships were booked full for
+several trips ahead. So we settled down comfortably on the good ship Lai
+Sang and droned lazily down through the Bay of Bengal. There were
+accommodations for only twelve first-class passengers, and there were
+only six on board. We had elbow room for the first time since leaving
+Africa.
+
+When we stopped at Penang there were two distinct sensations. One was
+that Georgetown, the capital of the Island of Penang, is the prettiest
+tropical city I have ever seen; and the other was the first shock of the
+rubber craze. From that time on we were constantly in a seething roar of
+rubber talk; everybody was buying rubber shares and everybody else was
+talking about starting rubber plantations. The fever was epidemic.
+Planters were destroying profitable cocoanut groves in order to replace
+them with rubber trees. Nearly every local resident was putting his last
+cent in rubber shares and the tales of suddenly increased wealth
+inflamed the imaginations and cupidity of every one who heard them. I
+mentally jotted down the names of one or two companies that are going to
+declare enormous dividends soon, but that's as far as I've got in my
+rubber investments.
+
+Penang, like Hongkong, is an island. The city on the island is
+Georgetown, while the city on Hongkong is Victoria; but you will never
+hear any one speak of Georgetown or Victoria. It is just Penang and
+Hongkong, and the other names are useless incumbrances.
+
+Singapore was crowded with Americans fighting for accommodations on the
+China and Japan steamers; other Americans fighting to get reservations
+on the Java steamers; still other Americans who, in despair, were going
+to Hongkong by way of Borneo and the Philippines. They were willing to
+go first, second or third class--any way at all to get on a ship.
+
+[Drawing: _At Raffles' Hotel_]
+
+The Singapore hotels were crowded and we got the last room in the
+Raffles Hotel. The great and stately veranda, which serves the double
+purpose of a bar and an out-of-door reception-room, was usually crowded.
+That veranda is the redeeming feature of Raffles Hotel. In other
+respects this great hotel, situated at the cross-roads where East and
+West and North and South meet, is not up to what a good hotel should be.
+
+We got the last state-room on a steamer to Java, and to our great
+surprise we found the ship to be the nicest we had traveled on, and the
+cooking to rival that of the great restaurants of Paris.
+
+Cholera was rampant in certain parts of Java, but that didn't stop the
+sightseers. Nothing less than an earthquake or a lost letter of credit
+could have stopped them.
+
+Our adventures in Java were a repetition of "crowds." The Hotel des
+Indes in Batavia was crowded and we got the last room. The railways were
+crowded, but not so much as the ones in India, and the carriages are
+most comfortable.
+
+For a week we did volcanoes and gorgeous scenery, and realized what a
+delightful place Java is. It is even nicer than Japan, and the hotels
+are the best in the East.
+
+My chief purpose in going to Java was to get a Javanese waterwheel. They
+had one at the world's fair in Chicago, and I have remembered it ever
+since as one of the most musical things I have ever heard. A friend of
+mine wanted me to get him one and I volunteered to do so. I supposed
+that we would hear waterwheels just as soon as we got off the ship. But
+I was evidently mistaken.
+
+Nobody in Java, so far as I could discover, had ever seen or heard of a
+Javanese waterwheel. I inquired of dozens of people--people who had
+lived there all their lives--but they looked blank when I spoke of
+waterwheels. I drew pictures of it, but that didn't enlighten them.
+
+Finally in despair, after a week of vain searching, I drew the plans for
+a waterwheel and had it made. And I am taking it home with me, hoping
+that it may make music. Next year, owing to the demand I created for
+waterwheels, I suppose the Javanese will start making them for the
+tourist trade.
+
+[Drawing: _Java in a State of High Cultivation_]
+
+Just as Russia is the land of "nitchevo," Spain the land of "mañana,"
+and China the land of "maskee," so Java is the land of "never mind." You
+will hear the expression dozens of times in the course of a talk between
+residents of Java--at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of
+sentences.
+
+"I think it will rain to-morrow, but--never mind."
+
+"I missed the train, but--never mind."
+
+"I'm not feeling well, but--never mind."
+
+You hear it all the time, all through Java.
+
+In Java we had the best coffee we had struck since leaving Paris, in
+fact, the first real good coffee we had found. Even worthy Abdullah, our
+camp cook, was considerable of a failure at coffee making. The Boro
+Boedoer ruins are among the most stupendous in the world; the volcanoes
+of Java are like chimneys in Pittsburg, the terraced rice fields are
+beautiful beyond belief, but--never mind. I think I shall remember Java
+chiefly for its delicious coffee and for my house-to-house hunt for a
+waterwheel.
+
+I was sitting one day in the Singapore club talking to Colonel Glover of
+the British army, when a hand tapped me on my shoulder. I looked around
+and there stood the King of Christmas Island. I no more expected to see
+him than I did the great Emperor Charlemagne, for it had been many years
+since we were college mates at Purdue University. His story is romantic.
+He is the nephew of Sir John Murray, who owns immense phosphate deposits
+in Christmas Island, two hundred miles south of Java Head. Years ago he
+went out to help work these great deposits and has climbed up until now
+he is the virtual head of the island. His authority is absolute and he
+has come to be called the King of Christmas Island. His every-day name
+is that of his distinguished uncle, Sir John, but his Sunday name is
+"King."
+
+For a day or two we motored around Singapore and it was worth seeing to
+note how the tourists stared when I casually said, "Well, King, let's
+have a bamboo." In a day or two he was going to meet his wife, who was
+just coming from England with a little three-months-old crown prince
+whom he had not yet seen. Then, together, the royal family was going
+back to Christmas Island on one of the king's ships.
+
+[Drawing: _The Call of the East_]
+
+The China coast is distinguished for its excellent United States
+consular officials. And it hasn't been so for many years. Our
+representative in Singapore, Mr. Dubois, is one of the best men I have
+yet encountered in one of our consulates. He is a new-comer in Singapore
+and yet in his few months he has added more prestige to our consulate
+general than all the former men put together. One can not but wonder why
+he is not a minister or an ambassador, instead of only a consul general.
+
+Hongkong has been fortunate in having an excellent representative in Mr.
+Rublee, and his recent untimely death is a distinct loss to the country.
+Mr. Wilder is in Shanghai and he is decidedly a man of the best mental
+and temperamental equipment. So now an American traveler may go up and
+down the China coast and "point with pride" to his nation's
+representatives. How different it was ten or twelve years ago!
+
+We barely managed to get on board the _Prinz Ludwig_--Singapore to
+Hongkong. It is one of the N.D. Lloyd's crack ships and everybody tries
+to take it. We got the last cabin, as usual, and spent hours thanking
+our lucky stars.
+
+The China Sea is chronically disposed to be disagreeable, but on this
+occasion it was quite well behaved. There were three days of delightful
+sunshine and then a sudden blighting chill in the air. We landed in
+Hongkong with overcoats buttoned up and with garments drenched by the
+rains and mist clouds that battled around the great peaks of this little
+island. The hotels were jammed to the sidewalks and we got the last room
+at the Hongkong Hotel, while throngs were turned away; the steamers for
+the States were booked full for several voyages ahead and tourists were
+rushing around in despair. The _Asia_ had been booked up to the limit
+for weeks and it seemed as if we might have to wait a long time before
+getting berths on any ship. But some one unexpectedly had to give up a
+state-room and we were fortunate in getting it.
+
+I had a great desire to see Manila again. It had been ten years since I
+left there in the "days of the empire" and everything in me quivered
+with longing to revisit the place where I spent my golden period of
+adventure. We booked on the old _Yuen Sang_, a friend of former days,
+and the skipper, Captain Percy Rolfe, handsome, cultured, and capable,
+was still in command. He loves the China Sea and has steadfastly refused
+to be lured away by offers of greater ships and more important commands.
+When we engaged our passage the agent warned us that the vessel was
+carrying a cargo of naphtha and kerosene and that we might not wish to
+risk it; but we went. A Jap and a Chinaman were the only two other
+passengers, and they were invisible during the sixty hours to cross.
+
+We steamed out of Hongkong in a chilling wind and at once plunged into a
+fog, but the next morning we ran into smooth seas and warm weather. A
+full moon hung over the empty waste of waters and the nights were
+gorgeous.
+
+As we neared the coast of Luzon I became much excited, for in my memory
+were those vivid, expectant days of old when our little American fleet
+crossed this selfsame stretch of sea to find and destroy the Spanish
+ships. I lived over again those boding days when the air was electric
+with impending danger.
+
+It was long before daylight when the _Yuen Sang_, at half-speed, arrived
+at Corregidor. The captain wished to report his number to the signal
+station, and we had to wait until light had come before the ship could
+enter. So the engines were stopped and for an hour we drifted on under
+the ship's momentum. The silencing of the engines on a ship is always
+ominous, and just now, with the dim bulk of Corregidor looming grimly
+before us, it seemed as if there was something particularly sinister
+about our stealthy approach.
+
+From five o'clock onward we stood on the bridge, our voices
+unconsciously hushed as we spoke. Here was where the _Baltimore_ had
+dropped a Greek fire life preserver and for a long time it had bobbed
+about on the tumbling sea, weird and terrifying to those who didn't know
+what it was. There was where the soot in the McCulloch's funnel had
+suddenly blazed up like the chimney of a blast furnace. And over there
+on the lower edge of the black bulk of the island was where a little
+signal light had flared up and then died out, leaving every man on our
+ships tense with expectant dread, and all about us here had reigned a
+silence so penetrating that it in itself was harder to bear than the
+thunder and flash of guns.
+
+And still we drifted on, nearer and nearer to Boca Chica, the northern
+passage into Manila Bay. Dawn and light came slowly. In poetry the dawn
+of the tropics may come up like thunder and the transition of darkness
+to light may be startling and sudden, but in my own experience the
+tropic dawn comes slowly and pervadingly. First a faint grayness,
+gradually growing brighter until the sun shoots up joyous and golden in
+its glory, painting the skies with flaming banners and penciling the
+tips and edges of clouds with the fires of morning. When we lazily
+drifted in toward Corregidor from the China Sea that morning, it was
+light enough to see distinctly for nearly an hour before the sun rose.
+
+Presently a fluttering string of signal flags appeared on the top of the
+island, and a moment later our engines resumed their throbbing and we
+headed boldly into Boca Chica. Here on the left was Mariveles Bay, the
+scene of the famous German ship, _Irene_, incident, which electrified
+the world.
+
+Every point that rose before my eyes was pregnant with historic memories
+and suggestions. I was thrilled and yet I half-dreaded my return to
+Manila, for fear that the peace and commercialism of the present days
+would be disappointing to one who knew it when each day was filled with
+trouble and threats of trouble; when the city lay always as if under an
+impending cloud and when the borders of the bay rang with the thunder of
+guns and the sputter of musketry.
+
+As the _Yuen Sang_ steamed across the twenty-five miles of the bay it
+seemed as if it were only yesterday that I had been there. The waters
+were glassy and smooth, just as the bay used to be every morning of the
+long blockade, when the air was still and the broad glistening water was
+tranquil and at rest.
+
+The surprises came in Manila. Great changes had taken place in the
+harbor, new breakwaters were where there had been none before, new
+buildings were up, and still more were building. Big electric cars
+rushed along where formerly the snail-like horse cars crept painfully
+by. The city was unbelievably clean and the main streets were full of
+busy life.
+
+I visited the old houses where we had once lived in economical splendor,
+with servants and carriages and expenses that were microscopic as
+compared to those of the present day. Upon all sides were the visible
+evidences that some day Manila will be the finest city of the Orient if
+the time ever comes when capital may feel assured that our occupation
+has some prospect of permanence.
+
+In my old days I used to know a beautiful Mestiza girl in Manila. She
+was very pretty and very nice. I used to draw pictures of her and
+struggle bravely with the Spanish language. And she was kind and patient
+with my efforts to learn. Her name was Victoria and she kept a little
+shop where she and her ancestors for generations before had sold silk
+jusi and piña cloth. I visited her often there and sometimes went out to
+her home, a beautiful big Spanish house in Calle Zarigoza.
+
+I determined to find her and went over to her shop. Fatal mistake! Ten
+years and the tropics work many changes in the soft-eyed daughters south
+of the fifteenth degree of latitude.
+
+I once read a story by Pierre Loti, a sad and haunting story of how he
+sought, after years of absence, to find an old-time sweetheart in
+Stamboul. He didn't find her and he should be grateful for his failure.
+
+[Drawing: _Ten Years After_]
+
+I found Victoria. She recognized me at once, although I hardly knew in
+her the slender, pretty Victoria of old. Her eyes were soft and nice,
+but smallpox had pitted her nose and cheeks and the deadly incubus of
+flesh had upholstered her in many soft and cushiony folds. I asked her
+if she had married and she said she never had, which information I
+matched with promptness. She spoke English quite well and seemed
+prosperous and--yes, motherly. There's no other word for it, although
+she is now hardly thirty.
+
+It was a terrible disappointment, a collapse of delightful memories, and
+as I walked away from her little silk shop with a vague promise to call
+again I knew perfectly well that I should never go back.
+
+I left Manila after less than two days and rolled and plunged and
+tumbled back across the China Sea to Hongkong. I bought a little chow
+dog puppy from the Chinese steward on board, but I suppose it will grow
+up and get fat one of these days, too. Allison Armour and his nephew,
+Norman Armour, were with us and in Hongkong the latter bought two chow
+dog puppies to send home. They looked exactly like teddy bears. Later he
+resolved that the trouble and risk were too great, inasmuch as he was
+not returning by the Pacific, so he gave them to me. And with three chow
+dogs and my friend Stephenson I embarked on the _Asia_ for the
+twenty-eight day trip to Frisco.
+
+The ship was jammed and we found a little fat man consigned to the sofa
+in our state-room. He was pleasant looking, but we little realized what
+hours of nocturnal horror were in store for us. He was the champion
+snorist of the five continents. He could snore in all keys, all
+languages, all directions, and it was like trying to sleep in the same
+room with a fog-horn. Nothing could waken him and he went to sleep
+before he struck the bed. And from that moment on through the night he
+tried the acoustic properties of that end of the ship to the utmost.
+After two or three nights of sleeplessness we resolved to rebel, mutiny,
+revolt, and if necessary joyfully to commit justifiable homicide.
+
+[Drawing: _Never an American Flag_]
+
+One night Stephenson turned on the light and reached for his cane. "What
+are you going to do? Kill him?" I asked eagerly. But he only poked at
+the quivering form to awaken it, and merely succeeded in changing the
+key from B flat to a discord of minors.
+
+At Yokohama somebody got off and by buying an extra berth we moved into
+another state-room and slept for twenty-four hours. We called him
+"Snoring Cupid," because of his cherubic appearance and proficiency in
+snoring.
+
+It was the cherry blossom season in Japan. Through the constant rain we
+saw the hillsides pink with loveliness. But it was cold and
+disheartening and after five days in Japan we turned with relief to the
+voyage homeward. And it was very pleasant. Lots of pleasant things
+happened, but nothing more.
+
+It is good to be back where the American flag is a familiar sight and
+not a curiosity. We saw thousands and thousands of merchant ships, but
+except in Manila and Honolulu we never saw a solitary American flag on
+one of them.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+And that's the end of our hunting trip. We are now back where we have to
+pay two or three times as much for things as we did in the Orient. A
+cigar that costs three cents gold in Manila costs twelve and one-half
+cents gold in San Francisco! But--never mind. A pleasant time was had.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII
+
+WAYS AND MEANS. WHAT TO TAKE AND WHAT NOT TO TAKE, INFORMATION FOR THOSE
+THAT WISH, INTEND OR HOPE TO HUNT IN THE AFRICAN HIGHLANDS
+
+
+When one returns to America after some time in the African game country,
+he is assailed by many questions from others who wish, intend, or hope
+to make a similar trip. Almost without variation the questioner will ask
+about the cost, about the danger from fever and sickness, about snakes
+and insects, about the tempers of the tribes one encounters, and then,
+if he be a specialist, he will ask about the rifles and the camp
+equipment. As these familiar and oft repeated inquiries have been made
+by friends who had read my African letters, I must assume that the
+features of an African hunting trip, about which people are most
+curious, were very imperfectly answered in the preceding chapters.
+Hence, this supplementary chapter, dealing briefly with the ways and
+means of such a trip, is added for the enlightenment of such readers as
+may be planning a journey into those fascinating regions of Africa where
+I have so recently been.
+
+As to the cost of a trip of three or more months in the field I should
+say that about one thousand dollars a month would amply cover the total
+expenses from New York back to New York. This amount would include
+passage money, guns, ammunition, landing charges, commissions, camera
+expenses on a reasonable scale, tents, customs--in fact all the
+incidental items which are not customarily included in the estimate
+given by the Nairobi outfitters. These firms, chief of which are the
+Newland, Tarlton and Company, Limited, which directed Colonel
+Roosevelt's _safari_, and the Boma Trading Company, which directed the
+Duke of Connaught's hunt, agree to outfit a party at a cost of about
+five-hundred dollars a month for each white man. For this amount they
+furnish everything except your ammunition, clothes, medicines, camera
+supplies, export and import duties, mounting of trophies, passage money
+to and from Africa, and such items. To particularize, they agree to
+supply for this amount, a complete outfit of tents, foods, porters, camp
+attendants, gunbearers, horses, mules or ox teams, as may be required,
+and a native head-man or overseer.
+
+One who wished to do so could telegraph ahead to have one of the Nairobi
+outfitting firms prepare a one, two or three months' hunt, or _safari_,
+and then, with only a suit-case he could arrive, with the certainty that
+everything would be in readiness. There would be no worry or concern
+about any feature of that part of the work. He would be relieved of the
+anxiety of preparation, and it is hardly likely that he would ever
+regret having taken this course. The dealings of our _safari_ with
+Messrs. Newland and Tarlton were most satisfactory in all respects and
+the charges they made were entirely reasonable. To the one who desires
+to make this trip in this, the simplest way, there is the need of giving
+only one suggestion: Let him write to one of the outfitting firms,
+stating the length of time that he can spend in the field, the class of
+game that he chiefly wishes to get, the number of white men in his
+party, and the season of the year that he plans to be in Africa. The
+outfitters will then answer, giving all the particulars of cost and
+equipment. This is the course that I should recommend for the average
+hunter who has had no previous experience in Africa. It will save him
+the trouble of making an endless amount of preparation, much of which
+will be useless because of his ignorance of conditions in that field of
+sport.
+
+In the case of our own _safari_, we bought our guns, tents, ammunition,
+foods and entire equipment in London and had it shipped to Nairobi. This
+equipment contemplated a trip of six months in the field, and included
+sixty-five "chop boxes" of sixty pounds each, containing foods. These
+chop boxes were of wood, with lids and locks, twenty of which were tin
+lined for use in packing specimens later in the trip, and all marked
+with bands of various colors to identify their contents. The boxes
+contained the following supplies:
+
+
+TWENTY CASES (RED BAND)
+
+  Two tins imperial cheese.
+  One pound Ceylon tea.
+  One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.
+  One four-pound tin granulated sugar.
+  Two tins ox tongue.
+  One tin oxford sausage.
+  Two tins sardines.
+  Two tins kippered herrings.
+  Three tins deviled ham (Underwood's).
+  Two tins jam (assorted).
+  Two tins marmalade (Dundee).
+  Three half-pound tins butter.
+  Three half-pound tins dripping.
+  Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.
+  Two tins small captain biscuit.
+  Two tins baked beans, Heinz (tomato sauce).
+  One half-pound tin salt.
+  One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).
+  Two parchment skins pea soup.
+  One one and one-half pound tin Scotch oatmeal.
+
+
+TWENTY CASES (BLUE BAND)
+
+  Two tins baked beans (Heinz) (tomato sauce).
+  One tin bologna sausage.
+  One tin sardines.
+  One tin sardines, smoked.
+  Two one-pound tins camp, pie.
+  Five tins jam, assorted.
+  Two tins marmalade (Dundee).
+  Five half-pound tins butter.
+  Three half-pound tins dripping.
+  Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.
+  Two tins imperial cheese.
+  One one and one-quarter pound tin Ceylon tea.
+  One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.
+  One four pound tin granulated sugar.
+  One quarter-pound tin cocoa.
+  Two tins camp biscuit.
+  One half-pound tin salt.
+  One one and one-half tin Scotch oatmeal.
+  One one-pound tin lentils.
+  One tin mixed vegetables (dried).
+  One two-pound tin German prunes.
+  Six soup squares.
+  One ounce W. pepper.
+  Two sponge cloths.
+  One-half quire kitchen paper.
+  One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).
+
+
+SIXTEEN CASES (GREEN BAND)
+
+  Three fourteen-pound tins self-raising flour.
+  Two cases (black band) containing fifteen bottles lime juice (plain)
+    Montserrat.
+  Two cases, each containing one dozen Scotch whisky.
+  Two cases (red and blue band) thirty pounds bacon, well packed in
+    salt.
+  Two cases (yellow and black band) five ten-pound tins plaster of
+    Paris for making casts of animals.
+  One case (red and green band) fifty pounds sperm candles--large size
+    (carriage).
+  Four folding lanterns.
+
+The following items to be equally divided into as many lots as necessary
+to make sixty-pound cases:
+
+  Eight Edam cheeses.
+  Twenty tins bovril.
+  Twenty two-pound tins sultana raisins.
+  Ten two-pound tins currants.
+  Ten one-pound tins macaroni.
+  Thirty tins Underwood deviled ham.
+  Eighty tablets carbolic soap.
+  Eighty packets toilet paper.
+  Ten bottles Enos' fruit salt.
+  Twenty one-pound tins plum pudding.
+  Six tins curry powder.
+  Twenty one-pound tins yellow Dubbin.
+  Six one-pound tins veterinary vaseline.
+  Six one-pound tins powdered sugar.
+  Six tin openers.
+  Twelve tins asparagus tips.
+  Twelve tins black mushrooms.
+  Six large bottles Pond's extract.
+  Twelve ten-yard spools zinc oxide surgeon's tape one inch wide.
+  Two small bottles Worcestershire sauce.
+
+In addition to the foregoing we added the following equipment of table
+ware:
+
+  Eight white enamel soup plates--light weight.
+  Eight white enamel dinner plates--light weight.
+  Three white enamel vegetable dishes--medium size.
+  Six one-pint cups.
+  Eight knives and forks.
+  Twelve teaspoons.
+  Six soup spoons.
+  Six large table-spoons.
+  One carving knife and fork.
+  Six white enamel oatmeal dishes.
+
+As our tent equipment and some of the miscellanies necessary to our
+expedition, the subjoined articles were procured:
+
+  Four double roof ridge tents 10 by 8--4 feet walls, in valises.
+  One extra fly of above size, with poles, ropes, etc, complete.
+  Five ground sheets for above, one foot larger each way,
+    _i.e._, 11 by 9.
+  Four mosquito nets for one-half tents, 9 feet long.
+  Four circular canvas baths.
+  Twelve green, round-bottom bags 43 by 30.
+  Four hold-all bags with padlocks.
+  Two fifty-yard coils 1 1-4 Manila rope.
+  One pair wood blocks for 1 1-4 brass sheaves, strapped with tails.
+  Four four-quart tin water bottles.
+  Two eight-quart Uganda water bottles.
+  Four large canvas water buckets.
+  One gross No. 1 circlets.
+  One punch and die.
+
+The foregoing lot of supplies were ordered through Newland, Tarlton and
+Company's agent at 166 Piccadilly, London, and were ready when we
+reached London.
+
+
+Medicines and Surgical Equipment
+
+It is well to provide a good store of medicines and some instruments,
+even though, as in our case, we had little occasion to use any of it.
+One of the Burroughs and Wellcome medicine cases "for East Africa" is
+compact and well selected. In addition there should be plenty of zinc
+oxide adhesive plaster, some bandages and some hypodermic syringes for
+use in case of wounds which might lead to blood poisoning. In our first
+experience with lions we always went prepared for wounds of this sort,
+but later we took no precautions whatever and fortunately had no
+occasion for heroic measures. At the same time, it is far wiser always
+to be prepared.
+
+We were also well supplied with tick medicines, but in spite of the fact
+that we encountered millions of ticks, they gave us no concern and no
+tick preventatives were used. Quinine and calomel are essentials and may
+be bought in Nairobi.
+
+
+Rifles
+
+It is important that each hunter include in his battery one heavy
+double-barreled cordite rifle for use at close quarters where a shocking
+impact is desirable. Each of our party had a .475 Jeffery, which we
+found to be entirely satisfactory, and which served us as well as though
+we had used the more expensive Holland and Holland's .450. I do not
+presume to know much about the relative merits of rifles, but after an
+experience of four and a half months with the Jeffery's .475, I feel
+justified in saying that this type would meet all requirements reliably.
+These rifles cost thirty-five guineas each.
+
+Mr. Akeley and I each had a nine millimeter Mannlicher, which we found
+to be unsatisfactory, either through fault of our own or of the rifle.
+We had a feeling that the weight of the ball was too great for the
+charge of powder. Others may favor it, but I should not include it in my
+battery if I were to go again. This type costs twelve guineas.
+
+Mr. Stephenson used a .318 Mauser, which he found most satisfactory. We
+also had three .256 Mannlichers, which in my experience is a type for
+which too much praise can not be given. It is also a twelve guinea
+rifle.
+
+In mentioning these three rifles of foreign make, I do not wish to imply
+that they are superior to our own American guns. Colonel Roosevelt used
+a Winchester .405 and a Springfield, both of which he considered most
+desirable. I think if I were to go again I should take a .405 as my
+second gun, heavy enough for all purposes except the close-quarter work
+where the big cordite double-barrels are necessary.
+
+The matter of a battery is one which each sportsman should determine for
+himself. There are many good types and a man is naturally inclined to
+favor those with which he is familiar.
+
+We also carried shot guns, one ten-gauge which, with buck shot, makes a
+formidable weapon for stopping charges of soft-skinned animals at close
+range; and two twenty-gauge Parkers for bird shooting.
+
+In addition, we included revolvers, none of which we fired or needed at
+any time in Africa. Perhaps a heavy six-shooter might some time be a
+valuable reserve, but our experience leads me to think that it would
+generally repose quietly in camp at all times.
+
+In the way of ammunition for a six-months' shoot, we took for each
+cordite rifle, 200 full mantle, 200 soft nose and 100 split cartridges.
+For the 9 millimeter, we took for each rifle 450 solids, 500 splits and
+500 soft-nosed bullets, and practically the same for the .256
+Mannlichers. We found that we had far more ammunition than we required,
+especially the solids for the smaller rifles, but it is better to have
+too much than to have the fear of running short. One should not forget
+that he is likely to shoot more than in his wildest dreams he supposed
+possible and the meanest feeling on a hunt is to have constantly to
+economize cartridges.
+
+None of us used telescope sights but by many sportsmen they are
+considered highly desirable in African shooting where often the range is
+great and the light confusing.
+
+
+Personal Equipment
+
+When we stopped in New York on our way to Africa, we talked with Mr.
+Bayard Dominick, who had just returned from such a trip as we had in
+mind, and from him secured a list of articles which he found to be
+sufficient and equal to all needs. We used this list to guide us and
+except in minor details, assembled a similar equipment:
+
+  Two suits--coat and breeches--gabardine or khaki.
+  One belt.
+  Two knives--one hunting-knife, one jack-knife.
+  Three pair cloth putties.
+  Three flannel shirts (I actually only used two).
+  Six suits summer flannels, merino, long drawers.
+  Three pair Abercrombie lightest shoes (one pair rubber soles).
+  Three colored silk handkerchiefs.
+  Two face towels--two bath towels.
+  Three khaki cartridge holders to put on shirts to
+    hold big cartridges, one for each shirt.
+  One pair long trousers to put on at night, khaki.
+  Two suits flannel pajamas.
+  Eight pair socks (I used gray Jaeger socks, fine).
+  One light west sweater.
+  One Mackinaw coat (not absolutely necessary).
+  One rubber coat.
+  One pair mosquito boots (Lawn and Alder, London).
+    Soft leather top boots for evening wear in camp.
+  Five leather pockets to hold cartridges to go on belt.
+  Three whetstones (one for self and two for gunbearers).
+  One helmet (we used Gyppy pattern Army and Navy stores).
+  One double terai hat, brown (Army and Navy stores).
+  One six-_or_eight-foot pocket tape of steel to measure horns.
+  One compass.
+  One diary.
+  Writing materials.
+  Toilet articles.
+
+Articles for personal use, however, may be determined by the wishes and
+experiences of the individual.
+
+We each had good Zeiss glasses, which are essential, and later, in
+Nairobi, were able to obtain a satisfactory replenishment of hunting
+clothes and shoes.
+
+
+Cameras
+
+Everybody who goes shooting will want at least one camera if only for
+the purpose of having his picture taken with his first lion, if he is
+successful in getting one. Mr. Akeley made special preparations for
+taking fine photographs, and for this reason carried a complete outfit,
+even to a dark-room equipment for developing negatives and moving
+picture films in the field. He carried a naturalist's graflex, a small
+hand camera and a moving-picture machine. Mr. Stephenson had a 3A Kodak,
+I had the same and also a Verascope stereoscopic camera. We used films
+and plates and found no deterioration in them even after several months
+in the field. Films and camera supplies may be purchased in Nairobi; and
+also the developing and printing may be done most satisfactorily in the
+town.
+
+
+Fevers and Sickness
+
+It is my belief that the dangers of this sort are magnified in the
+imaginations of those who contemplate a trip to East Africa. Very little
+of the hunting is done in jungles--in fact there are few jungles except
+on the slopes of the mountains and along the course of streams. Our
+_safari_ went into the Athi Plains, along the Athi River down the Tana
+River, up on Mount Kenia and later on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, along the
+Nzoia River, and up Mount Elgon. Coming out of this district, we passed
+through the Rift Valley and part of our _safari_ went up to Lake
+Hannington. So, from personal experience, I can speak with knowledge of
+only these sections. Along the Tana we were in fever country, the
+altitude being only about thirty-five hundred feet. And yet only two of
+our party had touches of fever, so light that they readily yielded to
+quinine. This was tick country, and we had been led to believe that we
+should be fearfully pestered with these insects. But there was almost no
+annoyance from them, due, perhaps, to a good deal of care in keeping
+them out of our clothes. There were many mosquitoes in this section, but
+effective mosquito nets over our cots protected us from them.
+
+On Mount Kenia, the high Guas Ngishu Plateau and Mount Elgon, the
+thought of sickness was entirely absent. These districts were found to
+be salubrious and free from ticks and mosquitoes.
+
+
+Snakes
+
+Before going to Africa, I must admit that the thought of serpents
+occasioned much anxiety. I didn't like the idea of tramping around
+through grass and reeds where poisonous snakes might be found. And yet,
+after a few days in the field, I never seriously thought of snakes as a
+possible, or rather probable, source of danger. In four and a half
+months, in all kinds of country, much of the time on foot, I saw only
+six live snakes. They were all small and only two, a puff adder and a
+little viper, were known to be venomous. Our porters, with bare feet and
+legs, penetrated all kinds of snaky-looking spots and yet not one was
+bitten. In fact, I have never heard of any one being bitten by snakes in
+East Africa, and for this reason I can not avoid the conclusion that the
+fear of snakes need not be seriously considered as an element of danger
+in the country.
+
+
+The Natives
+
+So many hunting parties have gone over the game fields that the natives
+are familiar with white men and are not at all likely to be hostile or
+troublesome. Our _safari_ at one time went into a district where we were
+warned to expect trouble, but there was none and I think there never
+need be any if the white men are considerate and fair. If a district is
+known to be particularly troublesome, the government authorities would
+not permit a hunting party to go into it, so for that reason the hunters
+need apprehend no dangers from that source.
+
+
+Game
+
+Game is found in varying degrees of abundance in most parts of the East
+African highlands. Within two hours of Nairobi the sportsman may find
+twelve or fifteen species, while within the space of four weeks a lucky
+hunter might secure elephant, lion, rhinoceros, buffalo, eland and
+hippopotamus. It is hardly _likely_ that he would, but it is quite
+within the range of possibilities. It all depends upon luck. The hunter
+is allowed under his two hundred and fifty dollar license, about one
+hundred and ninety-five animals, comprising thirty-five species, and not
+including lion, leopard, wart-hog and hyena. There is no restriction on
+the number of these last-named species that one is allowed to shoot, but
+there is on the number that he gets the opportunity of shooting.
+
+The success of an expedition should not be measured by the number of
+trophies, but rather by the quality of them. For example, the new
+license allows twenty zebras, but no one would want to kill more than
+two unless as food for the porters. The same is true of many other
+species, and a temperate sportsman should have no desire to kill more
+than a couple of each species, say sixty or eighty head in all, unless,
+of course, he is making collections for museums or for other scientific
+purposes.
+
+The gunbearers are usually fairly good skinners and if carefully watched
+and directed can treat the heads and skins so that they may be safely
+got in to Nairobi. Here they should be overhauled carefully and packed
+in brine for shipment out of the country. The agents in Nairobi should
+be consulted about these details and will give competent instructions
+covering this phase of the work.
+
+
+GAME LAWS
+
+These are of necessity under frequent revision, but the latest available
+information allows the holder of a fifty-pound license, which lasts for
+one year from date of issue, to kill or capture the following:
+
+Buffalo (Bull), 2; [A]Rhinoceros, 2; [A]Hippopotamus, 2; [A]Eland, 1;
+Zebra (Grevey's), 2; Zebra, (Common), 20; Oryx callotis, 2; Oryx beisa,
+4; Waterbuck (of each species), 2; Sable antelope (male), 1; [A]Roan
+antelope (male), 1; [A]Greater Kudu (male), 1; Lesser Kudu, 4; Topi, 2;
+Topi (in Jubaland, Tanaland and Loita Plains), 8; Coke's Hartebeest, 20;
+[A]Neumann's Hartebeest, 2; Jackson's Hartebeest, 4; Hunter's Antelope,
+6; Thomas' Kob, 4; Bongo, 2; Impalla, 4; Sitatunga, 2; Wildebeest, 3;
+Grant's Gazelle (Typica, Notata Bright's, Robertsi), each, 3; Gerenuk,
+4; Duiker (Harvey's, Isaac's, and Blue), each, 10; Dik-dik (Kirk's,
+Guenther's, Hinde's, Cavendish's), each, 10; Oribi (Abyssinian,
+Haggard's, Kenia), each, 10; Suni (Nesotragus Moschatus), 10;
+Klipspringer, 10; Reedbuck (Ward's, Chanler's), each, 10; Gazelle
+(Thompson's, Peter's, Soemmering's), each, 10; Bushbuck (Common,
+Haywood's), each, 10; Colobi Monkeys, of each species, 6; Marabou, 4;
+Egret, of each species, 4.
+
+[Footnote A: Can not be killed in certain districts.]
+
+SPECIAL LICENSES
+
+These can be taken out for ten pounds each and entitle the holder to
+kill or capture:
+
+Elephant with tusks over thirty pounds, each, 1; Bull Giraffe in certain
+districts, 1.
+
+A second elephant is allowed on payment of a further fee of twenty
+pounds, this fee being returnable in the event of the elephant not being
+obtained.
+
+Lions and leopards are classed as vermin, and consequently no license to
+kill them is required.
+
+
+The Season for Shooting
+
+"Practically any time of the year will do for shooting in British East
+Africa, but the season of the 'big rains' from the end of January to the
+end of April, is not one to choose willingly from the point of view of
+comfort. There is also a short spell of rainy weather about October and
+November which, however, is not looked upon as an obstacle to a
+_safari_, and we may say that from May to February constitutes the
+shooting season."
+
+The foregoing is quoted from a pamphlet on East Africa game shooting. In
+our own experience the weather between September and February was
+perfectly delightful and I judge, from reading accounts of Colonel
+Roosevelt's trip, that his operations between April and December were
+never seriously hampered by bad weather. From the experiences of these
+two _safaris_, one might reasonably conclude that any time is good
+except February, March and April, the season of the "big rains."
+
+
+Heat
+
+On the Athi Plains in September, we found the heat in the middle of the
+day to be very ardent, to say the least. But with the exception of fewer
+than a dozen days in all, we never were obliged to consider this phase
+of the hunting experience as an objectionable feature. We found the cold
+of the high altitudes to be severe in the evenings and in contrast to
+it, the warm days were most welcome. Along the coast, of course, the
+heat is intense, but all of the shooting is done at altitudes exceeding
+thirty-five hundred feet and one merely pauses at the coast town long
+enough to catch his train. In September even Mombasa was delightful, but
+in January it was very hot.
+
+In conclusion, I might say that all one needs for an African hunting
+trip is sufficient time, sufficient money, and a fair degree of health.
+Also the services of a reliable outfitting firm which will furnish
+enlightenment upon all subjects not specifically included in the
+foregoing chapter of advice and information.
+
+
+
+  _With the exception of the photographs, all of which are here
+  reproduced for the first time, a great part of this material appeared
+  originally in The Chicago Tribune, and is now published in book form
+  by the courtesy of that paper._
+
+
+
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+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of In Africa, by John T. McCutcheon</title>
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+<body class="c12">
+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, In Africa, by John T. McCutcheon</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: In Africa</p>
+<p>       Hunting Adventures in the Big Game Country</p>
+<p>Author: John T. McCutcheon</p>
+<p>Release Date: April 29, 2007  [eBook #21254]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3 class="pg">E-text prepared by Rudy Ketterer<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+  <div class="c1">
+    <h1>IN AFRICA</h1><a href="images/img0665.jpg"><img src=
+    "images/img0665s.jpg" border="0" alt=
+    "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. One Morning's Bag]" /></a>
+
+    <p>One Morning's Bag</p>
+
+    <h1>IN AFRICA</h1>
+
+    <h2><em>Hunting Adventures in the<br />
+    Big Game Country</em></h2>
+
+    <h3>BY</h3>
+
+    <h2>JOHN T. McCUTCHEON</h2>
+
+    <h4>Cartoonist of the Chicago Tribune</h4>
+
+    <h4>ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS AND CARTOONS<br />
+    BY THE AUTHOR</h4>
+	<p>&nbsp;</p>
+	<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <h4>INDIANAPOLIS</h4>
+
+    <h4>THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY</h4>
+
+    <h4>PUBLISHERS</h4>
+
+    <h5>PRESS OF<br />
+    BRAUNWORTH &amp; CO.<br />
+    BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTERS<br />
+    BROOKLYN, N.Y.</h5>
+	<p>&nbsp;</p>
+	<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <h3>TO THOSE ADVENTUROUS SOULS WHO<br />
+    RESENT THE RESTRAINT OF THE BEATEN PATH<br />
+    THESE OBSERVATIONS OF AN AMATEUR<br />
+    ARE DEDICATED</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h3>PREFATORY NOTE</h3>
+
+    <div class="c2">
+      <p>This collection of African stories has no pretentious
+      purpose. It is merely the record of a most delightful hunting
+      trip into those fascinating regions along the Equator, where
+      one may still have "thrilling adventures" and live in a
+      story-book atmosphere, where the "roar of the lion" and the
+      "crack of the rifle" are part of the every-day life, and
+      where in a few months one may store up enough material to
+      keep the memory pleasantly occupied all the rest of a
+      lifetime. The stories are descriptive of a four-and-a-half
+      months' trip in the big game country and pretend to no more
+      serious purpose than merely to relate the experiences of a
+      self-confessed amateur under such conditions.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="c3">
+      JOHN T. McCUTCHEON
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="c4">
+      <em>August, 1910</em>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c6">
+    <div class="c1">
+      <h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><a href="#I">CHAPTER ONE</a><br />
+    The Preparation for Departure. Experiences with Willing Friends
+    and Advisers</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#II">CHAPTER TWO</a><br />
+    The First Half of the Voyage. From Naples to the Red Sea, with
+    a Few Side-Lights on Indian Ocean Travel</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#III">CHAPTER THREE</a><br />
+    The Island of Mombasa, with the Jungles of Equatorial Africa
+    "Only a Few Blocks Away." A Story of the World's Champion
+    Man-Eating Lions</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#IV">CHAPTER FOUR</a><br />
+    On the Edge of the Athi Plains, Face to Face with Herds of Wild
+    Game. Up in a Balloon at Nairobi</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#V">CHAPTER FIVE</a><br />
+    Into the Heart of the Big Game Country with a Retinue of More
+    Than One Hundred Natives. A Safari and What It Is</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#VI">CHAPTER SIX</a><br />
+    A Lion Drive. With a Rhino in Range Some One Shouts "Simba" and
+    I Get My First Glimpse of a Wild Lion. Three Shots and Out</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#VII">CHAPTER SEVEN</a><br />
+    On the Tana River, the Home of the Rhino. The Timid are
+    Frightened, the Dangerous Killed, and Others Photographed.
+    Moving Pictures of a Rhino Charge</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#VIII">CHAPTER EIGHT</a><br />
+    Meeting Colonel Roosevelt in the Uttermost Outpost of
+    Semi-Civilization. He Talks of Many Things, Hears that he has
+    Been Reported Dead, and Promptly Plans an Elephant Hunt</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#IX">CHAPTER NINE</a><br />
+    The Colonel Reads Macaulay's "Essays," Discourses on Many
+    Subjects with Great Frankness, Declines a Drink of Scotch
+    Whisky, and Kills Three Elephants</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#X">CHAPTER TEN</a><br />
+    Elephant Hunting Not an Occasion for Lightsome Merrymaking.
+    Five Hundred Thousand Acres of Forest in Which the Kenia
+    Elephant Lives, Wanders and Brings Up His Children</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XI">CHAPTER ELEVEN</a><br />
+    Nine Days Without Seeing an Elephant. The Roosevelt Party
+    Departs and We March for the Mountains on Our Big Elephant
+    Hunt. The Policeman of the Plains</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XII">CHAPTER TWELVE</a><br />
+    "Twas the Day Before Christmas." Photographing a Charging
+    Elephant, Cornering a Wounded Elephant in a River Jungle
+    Growth. A Thrilling Charge. Hassan's Courage</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XIII">CHAPTER THIRTEEN</a><br />
+    In the Swamps of the Guas Ngishu. Beating for Lions We Came
+    Upon a Strange and Fascinating Wild Beast, Which Became
+    Attached to Our Party. The Little Wanderobo Dog</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XIV">CHAPTER FOURTEEN</a><br />
+    Who's Who in Jungleland. The Hartebeest and the Wildebeest, the
+    Amusing Giraffe and the Ubiquitous Zebra, the Lovely Gazelle
+    and the Gentle Impalla</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XV">CHAPTER FIFTEEN</a><br />
+    Some Natural History in Which it is Revealed that a Sing-Sing
+    Waterbuck is Not a Singing Topi, and that a Topi is Not a
+    Species of Head-dress</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XVI">CHAPTER SIXTEEN</a><br />
+    In the Tall Grass of the Mount Elgon Country. A Narrow Escape
+    from a Long-Horned Rhino. A Thanksgiving Dinner and a Visit to
+    a Native Village</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XVII">CHAPTER SEVENTEEN</a><br />
+    Up and Down the Mountain Side from the Ketosh Village to the
+    Great Cave of Bats. A Dramatic Episode with the Finding of a
+    Black Baby as a Climax</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XVIII">CHAPTER EIGHTEEN</a><br />
+    Electric Lights, Motor-Cars and Fifteen Varieties of Wild Game.
+    Chasing Lions Across the Country in a Carriage</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XIX">CHAPTER NINETEEN</a><br />
+    The Last Word in Lion Hunting. Methods of Trailing, Ensnaring
+    and Otherwise Outwitting the King of Beasts. A Chapter of
+    Adventures</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XX">CHAPTER TWENTY</a><br />
+    Abdullah the Cook and Some Interesting Gastronomic Experiences.
+    Thirteen Tribes Represented in the Safari. Abdi's Story of His
+    Uncle and the Lions</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XXI">CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE</a><br />
+    Back Home from Africa. Ninety Days on the Way Through India,
+    Java, China, Manila and Japan. Three Chow Dogs and a Final
+    Series of Amusing Adventures</p>
+
+    <p><a href="#XXII">CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO</a><br />
+    Ways and Means. What to Take and What Not to Take. Information
+    for Those that Wish, Intend or Hope to Hunt in the African
+    Highlands</p>
+  </div><a name="Begin" id="Begin"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h1>IN AFRICA</h1><a name="I" id="I"></a>
+
+    <h2>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+    <h3>THE PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE. EXPERIENCES WITH WILLING
+    FRIENDS AND ADVISERS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Ever</span> since I can remember, almost, I
+    have cherished a modest ambition to hunt lions and elephants.
+    At an early age, or, to be more exact, at about that age which
+    finds most boys wondering whether they would rather be Indian
+    fighters or sailors, I ran across a copy of Stanley's
+    <em>Through the Dark Continent</em>. It was full of fascinating
+    adventures. I thrilled at the accounts which spoke in terms of
+    easy familiarity of "express" rifles and "elephant" guns, and
+    in my vivid but misguided imagination, I pictured an elephant
+    gun as a sort of cannon&mdash;a huge, unwieldy arquebus&mdash;that fired
+    a ponderous shell. The old woodcuts of daring hunters and
+    charging lions inspired me with unrest and longing&mdash;the longing
+    to bid the farm farewell and start down the road for Africa.
+    Africa! What a picture it conjured up in my fancy! Then, as
+    even now, it symbolized a world of adventurous possibilities;
+    and in my boyhood fancy, it lay away off
+    there&mdash;somewhere&mdash;vaguely&mdash;beyond mountains and deserts and
+    oceans, a vast, mysterious, unknown land, that swarmed with
+    inviting dangers and alluring romance.</p>
+
+    <p>One by one my other youthful ambitions have been laid away.
+    I have given up hope of ever being an Indian fighter out on the
+    plains, because the pesky redskins have long since ceased to
+    need my strong right arm to quell them. I also have yielded up
+    my ambition to be a sailor, or rather, that branch of the
+    profession in which I hoped to specialize&mdash;piracy&mdash;because, for
+    some regretful reason, piracy has lost much of its charm in
+    these days of great liners. There is no treasure to search for
+    any more, and the golden age of the splendid clipper ships,
+    with their immense spread of canvas, has given way to the
+    unromantic age of the grimy steamer, about which there is so
+    little to appeal to the imagination. Consequently, lion hunting
+    is about the only thing left&mdash;except wars, and they are few and
+    far between.</p>
+
+    <p>And so, after suffering this "lion-hunting" ambition to lie
+    fallow for many years, I at last reached a day when it seemed
+    possible to realize it. The chance came in a curiously
+    unexpected way. Mr. Akeley, a man famed in African hunting
+    exploits, was to deliver a talk before a little club to which I
+    belonged. I went, and as a result of my thrilled interest in
+    every word he said, I met him and talked with him and finally
+    was asked to join a new African expedition that he had in
+    prospect. With the party were to be Mrs. Akeley, with a record
+    of fourteen months in the big game country, and Mr. Stephenson,
+    a hunter with many years of experience in the wild places of
+    the United States, Canada and Mexico. My hunting experience had
+    been chiefly gained in my library, but for some strange reason,
+    it did not seem incongruous that I should begin my real hunting
+    in a lion and elephant country.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p003.png"><img src="images/p003s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Getting Ready for Lion Shooting]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Getting Ready for Lion Shooting</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>I had all the prowess of a Tartarin, and during the five
+    months that elapsed before I actually set forth, I went about
+    my daily work with a mind half dazed with the delicious
+    consciousness that I was soon to become a lion hunter. I feared
+    that modern methods might have taken away much of the old-time
+    romance of the sport, but I felt certain that there was still
+    to be something left in the way of excitement and
+    adventure.</p>
+
+    <p>The succeeding pages of this book contain the chronicle of
+    the nine delightful months that followed my departure from
+    America.</p>
+
+    <p>In the middle of August Mr. Stephenson and I arrived in
+    London. Mr. Akeley had ordered most of our equipment by letter,
+    but there still remained many things to be done, and for a week
+    or more we were busy from morning till night.</p>
+
+    <p>It is amazing how much stuff is required to outfit a party
+    of four people for an African shooting expedition of several
+    months' duration. First in importance come the rifles, then the
+    tents and camp equipment, then the clothes and boots, then the
+    medical supplies, and finally the food. Perhaps the food might
+    be put first in importance, but just now, after a hearty
+    dinner, it seems to be the least important detail.</p>
+
+    <p>Many men outfitting for an African campaign among wild
+    animals secure their outfits in London. It is there, in modest
+    little shops, that one gets the weapons that are known to
+    sportsmen from one end of the world to the other&mdash;weapons
+    designed expressly for the requirements of African shooting,
+    and which have long stood the test of hard, practical service.
+    For two days we haunted these famous gun-makers' shops, and for
+    two days I made a magnificent attempt to look learnedly at
+    things about which I knew little.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p005.png"><img src="images/p005s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Practising in the Museum]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Practising in the Museum</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At last, after many hours of gun shopping, attended by the
+    constant click of a taxicab meter, I assembled such an imposing
+    arsenal that I was nervous whenever I thought about it. With
+    such a battery it was a foregone conclusion that something, or
+    somebody, was likely to get hurt. I hoped that it would be
+    something, and not somebody.</p>
+
+    <p>The old-time "elephant gun" which shot an enormous ball and
+    a staggering charge of black powder has given way to the modern
+    double-barreled rifle, with its steel bullet and cordite
+    powder. It is not half so heavy or clumsy as the old timers,
+    but its power and penetration are tremendous. The largest of
+    this modern type is the .650 cordite&mdash;that is, it shoots a
+    bullet six hundred and fifty thousandths of an inch in
+    diameter, and has a frightful recoil. This weapon is
+    prohibitive on account of its recoil, and few, if any,
+    sportsmen now care to carry one. The most popular type is the
+    .450 and .475 cordite double-barreled ejector, hammerless
+    rifles, and these are the ones that every elephant hunter
+    should have.</p>
+
+    <p>We started out with the definite purpose of getting three
+    .450s&mdash;one for Mr. Akeley, one for Mr. Stephenson, and one for
+    myself; also three nine-millimeter (.375) Mannlichers and two
+    .256 Mannlichers. What we really got were three .475 cordites,
+    two nine-millimeter Mannlichers, one eight-millimeter Mauser,
+    and two .256 Mannlichers. We were switched off the .450s
+    because a government regulation forbids the use of that caliber
+    in Uganda, although it is permitted in British East Africa, and
+    so we played safe by getting the .475s. This rifle is a heavy
+    gun that carries a bullet large enough to jolt a fixed star and
+    recoil enough to put one's starboard shoulder in the hospital
+    for a day or so. Theoretically, the sportsman uses this weapon
+    in close quarters, and with a bullet placed according to expert
+    advice sees the charging lion, rhino or elephant turn a back
+    somersault on his way to kingdom come. It has a tremendous
+    impact and will usually stop an animal even if the bullet does
+    not kill it. The bullets of a smaller rifle may kill the
+    animal, but not stop it at once. An elephant or lion, with a
+    small bullet in its heart, may still charge for fifty or one
+    hundred yards before it falls. Hence the necessity for a rifle
+    that will shock as well as penetrate.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p007.png"><img src="images/p007s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Advice from a Cheerful Stranger]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Advice from a Cheerful Stranger</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Several experienced African lion hunters strongly advise
+    taking a "paradox," which in their parlance is affectionately
+    called a "cripple-stopper." It looks like what one would
+    suppose an elephant gun to look like. Its weight is staggering,
+    and it shoots a solid ball, backed up by a fearful charge of
+    cordite. They use it under the following conditions: Suppose
+    that a big animal has been wounded and not instantly killed. It
+    at once assumes the aggressive, and is savage beyond belief.
+    The pain of the wound infuriates it and its one object in life
+    is to get at the man who shot it. It charges in a well-nigh
+    irresistible rush, and no ordinary bullet can stop it unless
+    placed in one or two small vital spots. Under the circumstances
+    the hunter may not be able to hold his rifle steady enough to
+    hit these aforesaid spots. That is when the paradox comes in.
+    The hunter points it in a general way in the direction of the
+    oncoming beast, pulls the trigger and hopes for the best. The
+    paradox bullet hits with the force of a sledge hammer, and
+    stuns everything within a quarter of a mile, and the hunter
+    turns several back somersaults from the recoil and fades into
+    bruised unconsciousness.</p>
+
+    <p>We decided not to get the paradox, preferring to trust to
+    hitting the small vital spots rather than transport the weapon
+    by hand through long tropical marches.</p>
+
+    <p>The nine-millimeter rifles were said to be large enough for
+    nearly all purposes, but not reassuring in extremely close
+    quarters. The .256 Mannlichers are splendid for long range
+    shooting, as they carry a small bore bullet and have enormous
+    penetrating power.</p>
+
+    <p>The presumption, therefore, was that we should first shoot
+    the lion at long range with the .256, then at a shorter range
+    with the nine-millimeter, then at close range with the .475
+    cordite, and then perhaps fervently wish that we had the
+    paradox or a balloon.</p>
+
+    <p>After getting our arsenal, we then had to get the
+    cartridges, all done up in tin boxes of a weight not exceeding
+    sixty pounds, that being the limit of weight which the African
+    porter is expected to carry. There were several thousand rounds
+    of ammunition, but this did not mean that several thousand
+    lions were to be killed. Allowing for a fair percentage of
+    misses, we calculated, if lucky, to get one or two lions.</p>
+
+    <p>After getting our rifles and ammunition under satisfactory
+    headway, we then saw that our seventy-two "chop" boxes of food
+    were sure to be ready in time to catch our steamer at
+    Southampton.</p>
+
+    <p>And yet these preliminary details did not half conclude our
+    shopping preliminaries in London. There were camping rugs,
+    blankets, cork mattresses, pillows and pillow cases, bed bags,
+    towels, lanterns, mosquito boots, whetstones, hunting and
+    skinning knives, khaki helmets, pocket tapes to measure
+    trophies, Pasteur anti-venomous serum, hypodermic syringes,
+    chairs, tables, cots, puttees, sweaters, raincoats, Jaeger
+    flannels, socks and pajamas, cholera belts, Burberry hunting
+    clothes, and lots of other little odds and ends that seemed to
+    be necessary.</p>
+
+    <p>The clothes were put up in air-proof tin uniform cases,
+    small enough to be easily carried by a porter and secure enough
+    to keep out the millions of ants that were expected to seek
+    habitation in them.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p010.png"><img src="images/p010s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Part of the Equipment]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Part of the Equipment</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Most of our equipment, especially the food supplies, had
+    been ordered by letter, and these we found to be practically
+    ready. The remaining necessities, guns, ammunition, camera
+    supplies, medical supplies, clothes, helmets, and so on, we
+    assembled after two days of prodigious hustling. There was
+    nothing then to be done except to hope that all our mountainous
+    mass of equipment would be safely installed on the steamer for
+    Mombasa. This steamer, the <em>Adolph Woermann</em>, sailed
+    from Hamburg on the fourteenth of August, was due at
+    Southampton on the eighteenth and at Naples on the thirtieth.
+    To avoid transporting the hundred cases of supplies overland to
+    Naples, it was necessary to get them to Southampton on the
+    eighteenth. It was a close shave, for only by sending them down
+    by passenger train on that morning were they able to reach
+    Southampton. Fortunately our hopes were fulfilled, and at last
+    we received word that they were on board and were careening
+    down toward Naples, where we expected to join them on the
+    thirtieth.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/pf10-top.png"><img src="images/pf10-tops.png"
+      alt="[Illustration: Map]" border=
+      "0" /></a> <a href="images/pf10-bottom.png"><img src=
+      "images/pf10-bottoms.png" alt="[Illustration: Map]" border="0" /></a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After disposing of this important preliminary, we then had
+    time to visit the zoo at South Kensington and the British
+    museum of natural history, where we carefully studied many of
+    the animals that we hoped to meet later under less formal
+    conditions. We picked out the vital spots, as seen from all
+    angles, and nothing then remained to be done but to get down to
+    British East Africa with our rifles and see whether we could
+    hit those vital spots.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p011.png"><img src="images/p011s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Studying the Lion's Vital Spots]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Studying the Lion's Vital Spots</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Mr. Akeley had an elaborate moving picture machine and we
+    planned to get some excellent pictures of charging animals. The
+    lion, rhino or other subject was to be allowed to charge within
+    a few feet of the camera and then with a crack of our trusty
+    rifles he was supposed to stop. We seemed safe in assuming,
+    even without exaggeration, that this would be exciting.</p>
+
+    <p>It was at least that.</p>
+
+    <p>At last we said farewell to London, a one-sided ceremony,
+    stopped at Rheims to see the aviators, joined the Akeleys at
+    Paris, and after touching a few of the high spots in Europe,
+    arrived in Naples in ample time to catch our boat for
+    Mombasa.</p>
+  </div><a name="II" id="II"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+    <h3>THE FIRST HALF OF THE VOYAGE. FROM NAPLES TO THE RED SEA,
+    WITH A FEW SIDE LIGHTS ON INDIAN OCEAN TRAVEL</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Lion</span> hunting had not been fraught
+    with any great hardships or dangers up to this time. The
+    Mediterranean was as smooth as a mill-pond, the Suez Canal was
+    free from any tempestuous rolling, and the Red Sea was placid
+    and hot. After some days we were in the Indian Ocean, plowing
+    lazily along and counting the hours until we reached Mombasa.
+    Perhaps after that the life of a lion hunter would be less
+    tranquil and calm.</p>
+
+    <p>The <em>Adolph Woermann</em> was a
+    six-thousand-three-hundred-ton ship, three years old, and so
+    heavily laden with guns and ammunition and steel rails for the
+    Tanga Railway that it would hardly roll in a hurricane. There
+    were about sixty first-class passengers on board and a fair
+    number in the second class. These passengers represented a
+    dozen or so different nationalities, and were bound for all
+    sorts of places in East, Central, and South Africa. Some were
+    government officials going out to their stations, some were
+    army officers, some were professional hunters, and some were
+    private hunters going out "for" to shoot.</p>
+
+    <p>There were also a number of women on board and some
+    children. I don't know how many children there were, but in the
+    early morning there seemed to be a great number.</p>
+
+    <p>These Indian Ocean steamers are usually filled with an
+    interesting lot of passengers. At first you may only speculate
+    as to who and what they are and whither they are bound, but as
+    the days go by you get acquainted with many of them and find
+    out who nearly everybody is and all about him. On this steamer
+    there were several interesting people. First in station and
+    importance was Sir Percy Girouard, the newly appointed governor
+    of British East Africa, who was going out to Nairobi to take
+    his position. Sir Percy is a splendid type of man, only about
+    forty-two years old, but with a career that has been filled
+    with brilliant achievements. He was born in Canada and was
+    knighted in 1900. He looks as Colonel Roosevelt looked ten
+    years ago, and, in spite of a firm, definite personality of
+    great strength, is also courteous and kindly. He has recently
+    been the governor of northern Nigeria, and before that time
+    served in South Africa and the Soudan. It was of him that Lord
+    Kitchener said "the Soudan Railway would never have been built
+    without his services."</p>
+
+    <p>The new governor was accompanied by two staff officers, one
+    a Scotchman and the other an Irishman, and both of them with
+    the clean, healthy look of the young British army officer.
+    There would be a big reception at Mombasa, no doubt, with bands
+    a-playing and fireworks popping, when the ship arrived with the
+    new executive.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0757.jpg"><img src="images/img0757s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. &quot;Crossing the Line&quot; Ceremonies]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>"Crossing the Line" Ceremonies</p><a href=
+      "images/img0661.jpg"><img src="images/img0661s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson, Mr. and Mrs. Akeley and Mr. McCutcheon. Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Mr. Stephenson, Mr. and Mrs. Akeley and Mr. McCutcheon.
+      Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There were also several officials with high-sounding titles
+    who were going out to their stations in German East Africa.
+    These gentlemen were mostly accompanied by wives and babies and
+    between them they imparted a spirited scene of domesticity to
+    the life on shipboard. The effect of a man wheeling a baby
+    carriage about the deck was to make one think of some peaceful
+    place far from the deck of a steamer.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p015.png"><img src="images/p015s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Before and After Outfitting]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Before and After Outfitting</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Little Tim was the life of the ship. He was a little boy
+    aged eighteen months, who began life at Sombra, in Nyassaland,
+    British Central Africa. Just now he was returning from England
+    with his father and mother. Little Tim had curly hair, looked
+    something like a brownie, and was brimming over with energy and
+    curiosity every moment that he was awake. If left alone five
+    minutes he was quite likely to try to climb up the rigging.
+    Consequently he was never left alone, and the decks were
+    constantly echoing with a fond mother's voice begging him not
+    to "do that," or to "come right here, Tim." One of Tim's chief
+    diversions was to divest himself of all but his two nearest
+    articles of wear and sit in the scuppers with the water turned
+    on. A crowd of passengers was usually grouped around him and
+    watched his man&oelig;uvers with intense interest. He was
+    probably photographed a hundred times and envied by everybody
+    on board. It was so fearfully hot in the Red Sea that to be
+    seated in running water with almost no clothes on seemed about
+    the nicest possible way to pass the time.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p017.png"><img src="images/p017s.png" border="0" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Little Tim]" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Little Tim</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There was a professional elephant hunter on board. He was a
+    quiet, reserved sort of man, pleasant, and not at all
+    bloodthirsty in appearance. He had spent twenty years shooting
+    in Africa, and had killed three hundred elephants. On his last
+    trip, during which he spent nearly four years in the Congo, he
+    secured about two and one-half tons of ivory. This great
+    quantity of tusks, worth nearly five dollars a pound, brought
+    him over twenty thousand dollars, after paying ten per cent. to
+    the Congo government. The Belgians place no limit upon the
+    number of elephants one may shoot, just so they get their
+    rake-off. In British territory, however, sportsmen are limited
+    to only two elephants a year to those holding licenses to
+    shoot. Our elephant hunter friend was now on his way back to
+    shoot some more.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p018.png"><img src="images/p018s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Elephant Hunter and His Bag]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Elephant Hunter and His Bag</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There was another interesting character on board who caused
+    many of us to stop and think. He was a young British army
+    officer who was mauled by a lioness several months ago in
+    Somaliland. He now walked with a decided limp and was likely to
+    lose his commission in the army because of physical
+    infirmities. He was cheerful, pleasant, and looked hopefully
+    forward to a time when he could have another go at a lion. This
+    is the way the thing happened: Last March he was shooting in
+    Somaliland and ran across a lioness. He shot her, but failed to
+    disable her. She immediately charged, chewed up his leg, arm
+    and shoulder, and was then killed by his Somali gunbearer. He
+    was days from any help. He dressed his own wounds and the
+    natives tried to carry him to the nearest settlement. Finally
+    his bandages were exhausted, the natives deserted, and it was
+    only after frightful suffering that he reached help. In three
+    weeks blood poisoning set in, as is usual after the foul teeth
+    of a lion have entered the flesh, and for several months he was
+    close to death. Now he was up and about, cheerful and sunny,
+    but a serious object lesson to the lion hunters bound for the
+    lair of the lion.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p020.png"><img src="images/p020s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Having Fun with Mr. Woermann]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Having Fun with Mr. Woermann</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In the smoking-room of the <em>Adolph Woermann</em> was a
+    bronze bust of Mr. Woermann presented by himself. Whether he
+    meant to perpetuate his own memory is not vital to the story.
+    The amusing feature lies in the fact that some irreverent
+    passenger, whose soul was dead to the sacredness of art, put a
+    rough slouch hat on Mr. Woermann one night, with side-splitting
+    results. Mr. W. is a man with a strong, intelligent German
+    face, something like that of Prince Henry, and in the statue
+    appears with bare neck and shoulders. The addition of a rakish
+    slouch hat produced a startling effect, greatly detracting from
+    the strictly artistic, but adding much to the interest of the
+    bust. It looked very much as though he had been ashore at Aden
+    and had come back on board feeling the way a man does when he
+    wants his hat on the side of his head. Still, what can a
+    shipowner expect who puts a nude bust of himself in his own
+    ship?</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p021.png"><img src="images/p021s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: An African Hair-Cut]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>An African Hair-Cut</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The ship's barber was the Associated Press of the ship's
+    company, and his shop was the Park Row of the vessel. He had
+    plenty of things to talk about and more than enough words to
+    express them. Every vague rumor that floated about was sure to
+    find lodgment in the barber shop, just as a piece of driftwood
+    finally reaches the beach. He knew all the secrets of the
+    voyage and told them freely.</p>
+
+    <p>One day I went down to have my hair trimmed. He asked if I'd
+    have it done African style. "How's that?" I inquired. "Shaved,"
+    said he, and "No," said I. A number of the Germans on board
+    were adopting the African style of hair-cut, and the effect was
+    something depressing. Every bump that had lain dormant under a
+    mat of hair at once assumed startling proportions, and red ears
+    that were retiring suddenly stuck out from the pale white scalp
+    like immense flappers. A devotee of this school of tonsorial
+    art had a peeled look that did not commend him to favorable
+    mention in artistic circles. But the flies, they loved it, so
+    it was an ill wind that blew no good.</p>
+
+    <p>The Red Sea has a well-earned reputation of being hot. We
+    expected a certain amount of sultriness, but not in such lavish
+    prodigality as it was delivered. The first day out from Suez
+    found the passengers peeling off unnecessary clothes, and the
+    next day found the men sleeping out on deck. There wasn't much
+    sleeping. The band concert lasted until ten-thirty, then the
+    three Germans who were trying to drink all the beer on board
+    gave a nightly saengerfest that lasted until one o'clock, and
+    then the men who wash down the decks appeared at four. Between
+    one and four it was too hot to sleep, so that there wasn't much
+    restful repose on the ship until we got out of the Red Sea.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p023.png"><img src="images/p023s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: We Slept on Deck in the Red Sea]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>We Slept on Deck in the Red Sea</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Down at the end of the Red Sea are the straits of
+    Bab-el-Mandeb. In the middle of the straits is the island of
+    Perim, a sun-baked, bare and uninviting chunk of land that has
+    great strategic value and little else. It absolutely commands
+    the entrance to the Red Sea, and, naturally, is British. Nearly
+    all strategic points in the East are British, from Gibraltar to
+    Singapore. A lighthouse, a signal station, and a small
+    detachment of troops are the sole points of interest in Perim,
+    and as one rides past one breathes a fervent prayer of
+    thanksgiving that he is not one of the summer colony on
+    Perim.</p>
+
+    <p>They tell a funny story about an English officer who was
+    sent to Perim to command the detachment. At the end of six
+    months an official order was sent for his transfer, because no
+    one is expected to last longer than six months without going
+    crazy or committing suicide. To the great surprise of the war
+    office a letter came back stating that the officer was quite
+    contented at Perim, that he liked the peace and quiet of the
+    place, and begged that he be given leave to remain another six
+    months. The war office was amazed, and it gladly gave him the
+    extension. At the end of a year the same exchange of letters
+    occurred and again he was given the extension.</p>
+
+    <p>I don't know how long this continued, but in the end the war
+    office discovered that the officer had been in London having a
+    good time while a sergeant-major attended to the sending of the
+    biannual letter. I suppose the officer divided his pay with the
+    sergeant-major. If he did not he was a most ungrateful man.</p>
+
+    <p>The <em>Adolph Woermann</em> is a German ship and is one of
+    the best ones that go down the east coast. Its passengers go to
+    the British ports in British East Africa, to the German ports
+    in German East Africa, and to several other ports in South
+    Africa. Consequently the passengers are about equally divided
+    between the English and the Germans, with an occasional
+    Portuguese bound for Delagoa Bay or Mozambique.</p>
+
+    <p>When we first went aboard our party of four desired to
+    secure a table by ourselves. We were unsuccessful, however, and
+    found it shared by a peaceful old gentleman with whiskers. By
+    crossing with gold the palm of the chief steward, the old
+    gentleman was shifted to a seat on the first officer's right.
+    Later we discovered that he was Sir Thomas Scanlon, the first
+    premier of South Africa, the man who gave Cecil Rhodes his
+    start.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p026.png"><img src="images/p026s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Mauled by a Lion]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Mauled by a Lion</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There were many interesting elements which made the cruise
+    of the <em>Woermann</em> unusual. Mr. Boyce and his party of
+    six were on board and were on their way to photograph East
+    Africa. They took moving pictures of the various deck sports,
+    also a bird's-eye picture of the ship, taken from a camera
+    suspended by a number of box kites, and also gave two evenings
+    of cinematograph entertainment.</p>
+
+    <p>There were also poker games, bridge games, and other forms
+    of seaside sports, all of which contributed to the gaiety of
+    life in the Indian Ocean. In the evening one might have
+    imagined oneself at a London music-hall, in the daytime at the
+    Olympian games, and in the early morning out on the farm. There
+    were a number of chickens on board and each rooster seemed
+    obliged to salute the dawn with a fanfare of crowing. They
+    belonged to the governor and were going out to East Africa to
+    found a colony of chickens. Some day, years hence, the proud
+    descendents of these chickens will boast that their ancestors
+    came over on the <em>Woermann</em>, just as some people boast
+    about their ancestors on the <em>Mayflower</em>.</p>
+
+    <p>When we crossed the equator, a committee of strong-arm men
+    baptized those of the passengers who had never before crossed
+    the line. Those who had crossed the line entered into the fun
+    of the occasion with much spirit and enthusiasm.</p>
+
+    <p>On the hottest day of the trip, just as we left Suez, when
+    the mercury was sputtering from the heat, we heard that the
+    north pole had been discovered. It cooled us off considerably
+    for a while.</p>
+  </div><a name="III" id="III"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+    <h3>THE ISLAND OF MOMBASA, WITH THE JUNGLES OF EQUATORIAL
+    AFRICA "ONLY A FEW BLOCKS AWAY." A STORY OF THE WORLD'S
+    CHAMPION MAN-EATING LIONS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">In</span> this voyage of the
+    <em>Woermann</em> there were about twenty Englishmen and thirty
+    Germans in the first class, not including women, and children.
+    There was practically no communication between the two
+    nationalities, which seemed deeply significant in these days
+    when there is so much talk of war between England and Germany.
+    Each went his way without so much as a "good morning" or a
+    <em>guten abend</em>. And it was not a case of unfamiliarity
+    with the languages, either, that caused this mutual restraint,
+    for most of the Germans speak English. It was simply an
+    evidence that at the present time there is decidedly bad
+    feeling between the two races, and if it is a correct barometer
+    of conditions in Europe, there is certain to be war one of
+    these days. On the <em>Woermann</em>, we only hoped that it
+    would not break out while the weather was as hot as it was at
+    that time.</p>
+
+    <p>The Germans are not addicted to deck sports while voyaging
+    about, and it is quite unusual to find on German ships anything
+    in the way of deck competition. The German, while resting,
+    prefers to play cards, or sing, or sit in his long easy chair
+    with the children playing about. The Englishman likes to
+    compete in feats of strength and takes to deck sports as a duck
+    takes to water. I don't know who started it, but some one
+    organized deck sports on the <em>Woermann</em>, and after we
+    left Aden the sound of battle raged without cessation. Some of
+    the competitions were amusing. For instance, there was the
+    cockfight. Two men, with hands and knees hobbled with a stick
+    and stout rope, seat themselves inside a circle, and the game
+    is for each one to try to put the other outside the circle.
+    Neither can use his hands.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p029.png"><img src="images/p029s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Cock Fight]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Cock Fight</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It is like wrestling in a sitting position with both hands
+    tied, the mode of attack being to topple over one's opponent
+    and then bunt him out of the circle. There is considerable
+    skill in the game and a fearful lot of hard work. By the time
+    the victor has won, the seat of the trousers of each of the two
+    contending heroes has cleaned the deck until it shines&mdash;the
+    deck, not the trousers.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p030.png"><img src="images/p030s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: &quot;Are You There?&quot;]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>"<em>Are You There?</em>"</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In a similar way the deck is benefited by the "are you
+    there" game. Two men are blindfolded, armed with long paper
+    clubs, and then lie at full length on the deck, with left hands
+    clasped. One then says, "Are you there?" and when the other
+    answers, "I am," he makes a wild swat at where he thinks the
+    other's head to be. Of course, when the man says "I am," he
+    immediately gets his head as far away from where it was when he
+    spoke as is possible while clasping his opponent's hand. The
+    "Are you there" man makes a wild swing and lands some place
+    with a prodigious thump. He usually strikes the deck and seldom
+    hits the head of the other man. If one of them hits the other's
+    head three times he wins.In the meantime the deck has been thoroughly massaged by the
+    two recumbent heroes as they have moved back and forth in their
+    various offensive and defensive man&oelig;uvers.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0571.jpg"><img src="images/img0571s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Study in Mombasa Shadows]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Study in Mombasa Shadows</p><a href=
+      "images/img0667a.jpg"><img src="images/img0667as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mombasa Is a Pretty Place]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Mombasa Is a Pretty Place</p><a href=
+      "images/img0667b.jpg"><img src="images/img0667bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Transportation in Mombasa]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Transportation in Mombasa</p>
+    </div>
+
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p031.png"><img src="images/p031s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Spar and Pillow Fight]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Spar and Pillow Fight</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The pillow fight on the spar is the most fun. Two gladiators
+    armed with pillows sit astride a spar and try to knock each
+    other off. It requires a good deal of knack to keep your
+    balance while some one is pounding you with a large pillow. You
+    are not allowed to touch the spar with your hands, hence the
+    difficulty of holding a difficult position. When a man begins
+    to waver the other redoubles his attack, and slowly at first,
+    but surely, the defeated gladiator tumbles off the spar into a
+    canvas stretched several feet below. It is lots of fun,
+    especially for the spectator and the winner.</p>
+
+    <p>Then, of course, there were other feats of intellectual and
+    physical prowess in the <em>Woermann</em> competition, such as
+    threading the needle, where you run across the deck, thread a
+    needle held by a woman, and then drag her back to the starting
+    point. The woman usually, in the excitement of the last
+    spirited rush, falls over and is bodily dragged several yards,
+    squealing wildly and waving a couple of much agitated deck
+    shoes, and so forth.</p>
+
+    <p>Similar to this contest is the one where the gentleman
+    dashes across the deck with several other equally dashing
+    gentlemen, kneels at the feet of a woman who ties his necktie
+    and then lights his cigarette. The game is to see who can do
+    this the quickest and get back to the starting place first. If
+    you have ever tried to light a cigarette in a terrible hurry
+    and on a windy deck, you will appreciate the elements of
+    uncertainty in the game.</p>
+
+    <p>These deck sports served to amuse and divert during the six
+    days on the Indian Ocean, and then the ship's chart said that
+    we were almost at Mombasa. The theoretical stage of the lion
+    hunt was nearly over and it was now a matter of only a few days
+    until we should be up against the "real thing." I sometimes
+    wondered how I should act with a hostile lion in front of
+    me&mdash;whether I would become panic-stricken or whether my nerve
+    would hold true. There is lots of food for reverie when one is
+    going against big game for the first time.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p033.png"><img src="images/p033s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Chalking the Pig's Eye]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Chalking the Pig's Eye</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We landed at Mombasa September sixteenth, seventeen days out
+    from Naples.</p>
+
+    <p>Mombasa is a little island about two by three miles in
+    extent. It is riotous with brilliant vegetation, and, as seen
+    after a long sea voyage through the Red Sea and the Indian
+    Ocean, it looks heavenly except for the heat. Hundreds of great
+    baobab trees with huge, bottle-like trunks and hundreds of
+    broad spreading mango trees give an effect of tropical
+    luxuriance that is hardly to be excelled in beauty anywhere in
+    the East. Large ships that stop at the island usually wind
+    their course through a narrow channel and land their passengers
+    and freight at the dock at Kilindini, a mile and a half from
+    the old Portuguese town of Mombasa, where all the life of the
+    island is centered. There are many relics of the old days
+    around the town of Mombasa and the port of Kilindini, but since
+    the British have been in possession a brisk air of progress and
+    enterprise is evident everywhere. Young men and young women in
+    tennis flannels, and other typical symptoms of British
+    occupation are constantly seen, and one entirely forgets that
+    one is several thousand miles from home and only a few blocks
+    from the jungles of equatorial Africa. We dreaded Mombasa
+    before we arrived, but were soon agreeably disappointed to find
+    it not only beautiful and interesting, but also pleasantly cool
+    and full of most hospitable social life.</p>
+
+    <p>When our ship anchored off Kilindini there was a great crowd
+    assembled on the pier. There were many smart looking boats,
+    manned with uniformed natives, that at once came out to the
+    ship, and we knew that the town was <em>en f&ecirc;te</em> to
+    welcome the newly appointed governor, Sir Percy Girouard.</p>
+
+    <p>He and his staff landed in full uniform. There were
+    addresses of welcome at the pier, a great deal of cheering and
+    considerable photographing. Then the rest of the passengers
+    went ashore and spent several hours at the custom house. All
+    personal luggage was passed through, and we embarked on a
+    little train for Mombasa. The next day we registered our
+    firearms and had Smith, Mackenzie and Company do the rest. This
+    firm is ubiquitous in Mombasa and Zanzibar. They attend to
+    everything for you, and relieve you from much worry, vexation
+    and rupees. They pay your customs duties, get your mountains of
+    stuff on the train for Nairobi, and all you have to do is to
+    pay them a commission and look pleasant. The customs duty is
+    ten per cent. on everything you have, and the commission is
+    five per cent. But in a hot climate, where one is apt to feel
+    lazy, the price is cheap.</p>
+
+    <p>Thanks to the governor, our party of four was invited to go
+    to Nairobi on his special train. It left Mombasa on the morning
+    of the nineteenth of September, and at once began to climb
+    toward the plateau on which Nairobi is situated, three hundred
+    and twenty-seven miles away. We had dreaded the railway ride
+    through the lowlands along the coast, for that district has a
+    bad reputation for fever and all such ills. But again we were
+    pleasantly disappointed. The country was beautiful and
+    interesting, and at four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at
+    Voi, a spot that is synonymous with human ailments. It is one
+    of the famous ill health resorts of Africa, but on this
+    occasion it was on its good behavior. We stopped four hours,
+    inspected everything in sight, and at eight o'clock the special
+    began to climb toward the plateau of East Africa. At nine
+    o'clock we stopped at Tsavo, a place made famous by the two
+    man-eating lions whose terrible depredations have been so
+    vividly described by Colonel Patterson in his book, <em>The Man
+    Eaters of Tsavo</em>. These two lions absolutely stopped all
+    work on the railroad for a period of several weeks. They were
+    daring beyond belief, and seemed to have no fear of human
+    beings. For a time all efforts to kill them were in vain.
+    Twenty-eight native workmen were eaten by them, and doubtless
+    many more were unrecorded victims of their activity. The whole
+    country was terrorized until finally, after many futile
+    attempts, they were at last killed.</p>
+
+    <p>No book on Africa seems complete unless this incident is
+    mentioned somewhere within its pages.</p>
+
+    <p>We looked out at Tsavo with devouring interest. All was
+    still, with the dead silence of a tropical night. Then the
+    train steamed on and we had several hours in a berth to think
+    the matter over. In the early hours of morning, we stopped at
+    Simba, the "Place of Lions," where the station-master has many
+    lion scares even now. In the cold darkness of the night we
+    bundled up in thick clothes and went forward to sit on the
+    observation seat of the engine. Slowly the eastern skies became
+    gray, then pink, and finally day broke through heavy masses of
+    clouds. It was intensely cold. In the faint light we could see
+    shadowy figures of animals creeping home after their night's
+    hunting. A huge cheetah bounded along the track in front of us.
+    A troop of giraffes slowly ambled away from the track. A gaunt
+    hyena loped off into the scrub near the side of the railroad
+    and then, as daylight became brighter, we found ourselves in
+    the midst of thousands of wild animals. Zebras, hartebeests,
+    Grant's gazelles, Thompson's gazelles, impalla, giraffes,
+    wildebeests, and many other antelope species cantered off and
+    stood to watch the train as it swept past them. It was a
+    wonderful ride, perhaps the most novel railway ride to be found
+    any place in the world. On each side of the Uganda Railroad
+    there is a strip of land, narrow on the north and wide on the
+    south, in which game is protected from the sportsman, and
+    consequently the animals have learned to regard these strips as
+    sanctuary. There were many tales of lions as we rode along, and
+    the imagination pictured a slinking lion in every patch of
+    reeds along the way. I heard one lion story that makes the
+    man-eaters of Tsavo seem like vegetarians. It was told to me by
+    a gentleman high in the government service&mdash;a man of
+    unimpeachable veracity. He says the story is absolutely true,
+    but refused to swear to it.</p>
+
+    <p>Once upon a time, so the story goes, there was a caravan of
+    slaves moving through the jungles of Africa. The slave-drivers
+    were cruel and they chained the poor savages together in
+    bunches of ten. Each slave wore an iron ring around his neck
+    and the chain passed through this ring and on to the rest of
+    the ten. For days and weeks and months they marched along,
+    their chains clanking and their shoulders bending beneath the
+    heavy weight. From time to time the slave-drivers would jog
+    them along with a few lashes from a four-cornered "hippo" hide
+    <em>kiboko</em>, or whip. Quite naturally the life was far from
+    pleasant to the chain-gang and they watched eagerly for a
+    chance to escape. Finally one dark night, when the sentinels
+    were asleep, a bunch of ten succeeded in creeping away into the
+    darkness. They were unarmed and chained from neck to neck, one
+    to another. For several days they made their way steadily
+    toward the coast. All seemed well. They ate fruit and nuts and
+    herbs and began to see visions of a pleasant arrival at the
+    coast.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p038.png"><img src="images/p038s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: They Made Their Way Steadily Toward the Coast]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>They Made Their Way Steadily Toward the Coast</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>But, alas! Their hopes were soon to be dispelled. One night
+    a deep rumbling roar was heard in the jungle through which they
+    were picking their unanimous way. A shudder ran through the
+    slaves. "<em>Simba</em>," they whispered in terror. A little
+    while later there was another rumble, this time much closer.
+    They speedily became more frightened. Here they were, ten days'
+    march from the coast, unarmed, and quite defenseless against a
+    lion.</p>
+
+    <p>Presently the lion appeared, his cruel, hungry eyes gleaming
+    through the night. They were frozen with horror, as slowly,
+    slowly, slowly the great animal crept toward them with his tail
+    sibilantly lashing above his back. They were now thoroughly
+    alarmed and realized to the utmost that the lion's intentions
+    were open to grave suspicion. Breathlessly they waited, or
+    perhaps they tried to climb trees, but being chained together
+    they could not climb more than one tree. And there was not a
+    single tree big enough to hold more than nine of them. The
+    record of the story is now obscure, but the horrid tale goes on
+    to relate that the lion gave a frightful roar and leaped upon
+    the tenth man, biting him to death in a single snap. The
+    dilemma of the others is obvious. They knew better than to
+    disturb a lion while it is eating. To do so would be to court
+    sudden death. So they sat still and watched the beast slowly
+    and greedily devour their comrade. Having finished his meal the
+    great beast, surfeited with food, slowly moved off into the
+    jungle.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p039.png"><img src="images/p039s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Lion's Intentions Were Open to Grave Suspicions]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Lion's Intentions Were Open to Grave
+      Suspicions</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Immediately the nine remaining slaves took to their heels,
+    dragging the empty ring and chain of the late number ten. All
+    night long they ran until finally they became exhausted and
+    fell asleep. In the afternoon they again resumed their march,
+    hopeful once more. But alas! again.</p>
+
+    <p>Along about supper-time they heard the distant roar of a
+    lion. Presently it sounded nearer and soon the gleaming eyes of
+    the lion appeared once more among the jungle grass. Once again
+    they were frozen with horror as the hungry beast devoured the
+    last man in the row&mdash;number nine. Again they sat helpless while
+    the man-eater slowly finished his supper, and again they were
+    overjoyed to see him depart from their midst. As soon as the
+    last vestige of his tail had disappeared from view they
+    scrambled up and hiked briskly toward the coast, nine days
+    away.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p040.png"><img src="images/p040s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: While the Man-Eater Finished His Supper]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>While the Man-Eater Finished His Supper</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>They were now thoroughly alarmed, and almost dreaded the
+    supper hour. The next night the lion caught up with them again
+    and proceeded to devour number eight. He then peacefully ambled
+    away, leaving another empty ring.</p>
+
+    <p>The next night there was a spirited contest to see which end
+    of the chain should be last, but a vote was taken and it was
+    decided six to one in favor of continuing in their original
+    formation. The one who voted against was eaten that night and
+    the remaining six, with the four empty rings clanking behind
+    them, resumed their mournful march to the coast, six days
+    away.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p041.png"><img src="images/p041s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Two to One]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Two to One</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>For five nights after this, the lion caught up with them and
+    diminished their number by five. Finally there was only one
+    left and the coast was a full day's march away. Could he make
+    it? It looked like a desperate chance, but he still had hopes.
+    He noticed with pleasure that the lion was becoming fat and
+    probably could not travel fast. But he also noticed with
+    displeasure that he had forty feet of chain and nine heavy iron
+    neck rings to lug along and that extra weight naturally greatly
+    handicapped him. It was a thrilling race&mdash;the coast only one
+    day away and life or death the prize! Who can imagine the
+    feelings of the poor slave? But with a stout heart he struggled
+    on through poisonous morasses, and pushed his way through snaky
+    creepers. The afternoon sun slowly sank toward the western
+    horizon and&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p>The locomotive at this point of the story screeched loudly.
+    The wheels grated on the track and my official friend leaped
+    off the cow-catcher.</p>
+
+    <p>"Here!" I shouted, "what's the finish of that story?"</p>
+
+    <p>"I'll tell you the rest the next time I see you," he sang
+    out, and so I don't know just how the story ended.</p>
+  </div><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+    <h3>ON THE EDGE OF THE ATHI PLAINS, FACE TO FACE WITH GREAT
+    HERDS OF WILD GAME. UP IN A BALLOON AT NAIROBI</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Before</span> Colonel Roosevelt drew the
+    eyes of the world on British East Africa Nairobi was
+    practically unheard of. The British colonial office knew where
+    it was and a fair number of English sportsmen had visited it in
+    the last six or eight years. Perhaps twenty-five or thirty
+    Americans had been in Nairobi on their way to the rich game
+    fields that lie in all directions from the town, but beyond
+    these few outsiders the place was unknown. Now it is decidedly
+    on the map, thanks to our gallant and picturesque Theodore. It
+    has been mentioned in book and magazine to a degree that nearly
+    everybody can tell in a general way where and what it is, even
+    if he can not pronounce it.</p>
+
+    <p>Before coming to Nairobi I had read a lot about it, and yet
+    when I reached the place it seemed as though the descriptions
+    had failed to prepare me for what I saw. We arrived under
+    unusual conditions. Files of native soldiers were lined up on
+    the platform of the station to welcome the new governor, and
+    the whole white population of the town, several hundred in
+    number, were massed in front of the building. The roofs and
+    trees were filled with natives and the broad open space beyond
+    the station was fringed with pony carts, bullock carts,
+    rickshaws, cameras, and some hotel 'buses. Several thousand
+    people, mostly East Indians and natives, were among those
+    present. Lord Delamere, who has adopted East Africa as his
+    home, and who owns a hundred thousand acres or so of game
+    preserves, read an address of welcome, and Sir Percy, in white
+    uniform and helmet, responded with a speech that struck a
+    popular note. There were dozens of cameras snapping and the
+    whole effect was distinctly festive in appearance.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p044.png"><img src="images/p044s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: In the Back Yard of Nairobi]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>In the Back Yard of Nairobi</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The town lies on the edge of the Athi Plains, a broad sweep
+    of sun-bleached grass veldt many miles in extent. From almost
+    any part of the town one may look out on plains where great
+    herds of wild game are constantly in sight. In an hour's
+    leisurely walk from the station a man with a gun can get
+    hartebeest, zebra, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's gazelle,
+    impalla, and probably wildebeest. One can not possibly count
+    the number of animals that feed contentedly within sight of the
+    town of Nairobi, and it is difficult to think that one is not
+    looking out upon a collection of domesticated game. Sometimes,
+    as happened two nights before we reached Nairobi, a lion will
+    chase a herd of zebra and the latter in fright will tear
+    through the town, destroying gardens and fences and flowers in
+    a mad stampede. We met one man who goes out ten minutes from
+    town every other day and kills a kongoni (hartebeest) as food
+    for his dogs. If you were disposed to do so you could kill
+    dozens every day with little effort and almost no diminution of
+    the visible supply.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0573.jpg"><img src="images/img0573s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Dressed to Kill]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Dressed to Kill</p><a href="images/img0669a.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0669as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition. The Balloon Ascension]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Balloon Ascension</p><a href=
+      "images/img0669b.jpg"><img src="images/img0669bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition. The Norfolk Hotel, Nairobi]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Norfolk Hotel, Nairobi</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Nairobi is new and unattractive. There is one long main
+    thoroughfare, quite wide and fringed with trees, along which at
+    wide intervals are the substantial looking stone building of
+    the Bank of India, the business houses, the hotels, and numbers
+    of cheap corrugated iron, one-story shacks used for government
+    purposes. A native barracks with low iron houses and some more
+    little iron houses used for medical experiments and still some
+    more for use as native hospitals are encountered as one takes
+    the half-mile ride from the station to the hotel. A big square
+    filled with large trees marks the park, and a number of rather
+    pretentious one-story buildings display signs that tell you
+    where you may buy almost anything, from a suit of clothes to a
+    magazine rifle.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p046.png"><img src="images/p046s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Main Street Is a Busy Place]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Main Street Is a Busy Place</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Goanese, East Indian, and European shops are scattered at
+    intervals along this one long, wide street. Rickshaws,
+    pedestrians, bullock carts, horsemen, and heavily burdened
+    porters are passing constantly back and forth, almost always in
+    the middle of the street. Bicycles, one or two motorcycles, and
+    a couple of automobiles are occasionally to be seen. The aspect
+    of the town suggests the activity of a new frontier place where
+    everybody is busy. At one end the long street loses itself in
+    the broad Athi Plains, at the other it climbs up over some low
+    hills and enters the residence district on higher ground. Here
+    the hills are generously covered with a straggly growth of
+    tall, ungraceful trees, among which, almost hidden from view,
+    are the widely scattered bungalows of the white population.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0575.jpg"><img src="images/img0575s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: An Embo Apollo]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>An Embo Apollo</p><a href="images/img0671.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0671s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Askari Patrols the Camp]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Askari Patrols the Camp</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Branching off from the main street are side streets, some of
+    them thronged with East Indian bazaars, about which may be
+    found all the phases of life of an Indian city. Still beyond
+    and parallel with the one main street are sparsely settled
+    streets which look ragged with their tin shacks and scattered
+    gardens.</p>
+
+    <p>Nairobi is not a beautiful place, but it is new and busy,
+    and the people who live there are working wonders in changing a
+    bad location into what some day will be a pretty place. It is
+    over five thousand feet high, healthy, and cold at night. Away
+    off in the hills a mile or more from town is Government House,
+    where the governor lives, and near by is the club and a new
+    European hospital, looking out over a sweep of country that on
+    clear days includes Kilima-Njaro, over a hundred miles to the
+    southeast, and Mount Kenia, a hundred miles northeast.</p>
+
+    <p>You are still in civilization in Nairobi. Anything you want
+    you may buy at some of the shops, and almost anything you may
+    want to eat or drink may easily be had. There are weekly
+    newspapers, churches, clubs, hotels, and nearly all the
+    by-products of civilization. One could live in Nairobi, only a
+    few miles from the equator, wear summer clothes at noon and
+    winter clothes at night, keep well, and not miss many of the
+    luxuries of life. The telegraph puts you in immediate touch
+    with the whole wide world, and on the thirtieth of September
+    you can read the Chicago <em>Tribune</em> of August
+    thirty-first.</p>
+
+    <p>At present the chief revenue of the government is derived
+    from shooting parties, and the officials are doing all they can
+    to encourage the coming of sportsmen. Each man who comes to
+    shoot must pay two hundred and fifty dollars for his license as
+    well as employ at least thirty natives for his transport. He
+    must buy supplies, pay ten per cent. import and export tax, and
+    in many other ways spend money which goes toward paying the
+    expenses of government. The government also is encouraging
+    various agricultural and stock raising experiments, but these
+    have not yet passed the experimental stage. Almost anything may
+    be grown in British East Africa, but before agriculture can be
+    made to pay the vast herds of wild game must either be
+    exterminated or driven away. No fence will keep out a herd of
+    zebra, and in one rush a field of grain is ruined by these
+    giant herds. Experiments have failed satisfactorily to
+    domesticate the zebra, and so he remains a menace to
+    agriculture and a nuisance in all respects except as adding a
+    picturesque note to the landscape.</p>
+
+    <p>Colonel Roosevelt, in a recent speech in Nairobi, spoke of
+    British East Africa as a land of enormous possibilities and
+    promise, but in talks with many men here I found that little
+    money has been made by those who have gone into agriculture in
+    a large way. Drought and predatory herds of game have
+    introduced an element of uncertainty which has made
+    agriculture, as at present developed, unsatisfactory.</p>
+
+    <p>Colonel Roosevelt has become a popular idol in East Africa.
+    Everywhere one meets Englishmen who express the greatest
+    admiration for him. He has shrewdly analyzed conditions as they
+    now exist and has picked out the weak spots in the government.
+    For many years prior to the arrival of Sir Percy Girouard the
+    country has been administered by weak executives, and its
+    progress has been greatly retarded thereby. The last governor
+    was kind, but inefficient, and some months ago was sent to the
+    West Indies, where he is officially buried. Roosevelt came,
+    sized up the situation, and made a speech at a big banquet in
+    Nairobi. Nearly two hundred white men in evening clothes were
+    there. They came from all parts of East Africa, and listened
+    with admiration to the plain truths that Theodore Roosevelt
+    told them in the manner of a Dutch uncle. Since then he has
+    owned the country and could be elected to any office within the
+    gift of the people. He talked for over an hour, and it must
+    have been a great speech, if one may judge by the enthusiastic
+    comments I have heard about it. When an Englishman gets
+    enthusiastic about a speech by an American it must be a pretty
+    good speech.</p>
+
+    <p>Newland and Tarlton is the firm that outfits most shooting
+    parties that start out from Nairobi. They do all the
+    preliminary work and relieve you of most of the worry. If you
+    wish them to do so, they will get your complete outfit, so you
+    need not bring anything with you but a suitcase. They will get
+    your guns, your tents, your food supplies, your mules, your
+    head-man, your cook, your gunbearers, your askaris (native
+    soldiers), your interpreter, your ammunition, and your porters.
+    They will have the whole outfit ready for you by the time you
+    arrive in Nairobi. When you arrive in British East Africa,
+    a-shooting bent, you will hear of Newland and Tarlton so often
+    that you will think they own the country.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Newland met us in Mombasa, and through his agents sent
+    all of our London equipment of tents and guns and ammunition
+    and food up to Nairobi. When we arrived in Nairobi he had our
+    porters ready, together with tent boys, gunbearers, and all the
+    other members of our <em>safari</em>, and in three days we were
+    ready to march. The firm has systematized methods so much that
+    it is simple for them to do what would be matters of endless
+    worry to the stranger. In course of time you pay the price, and
+    in our case it seemed reasonable, when one considers the work
+    and worry involved. Most English sportsmen come out in October
+    and November, after which time the shooting is at its height.
+    Two years ago there were sixty <em>safaris</em>, or shooting
+    expeditions, sent out from Nairobi. When we left, late in
+    September, there were about thirty.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0577.jpg"><img src="images/img0577s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Great White Way in Nairobi]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Great White Way in Nairobi</p><a href=
+      "images/img0673a.jpg"><img src="images/img0673as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce The Busiest Place in Nairobi]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Busiest Place in Nairobi</p><a href=
+      "images/img0673b.jpg"><img src="images/img0673bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Umbrella Acacias]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Umbrella Acacias</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p051.png"><img src="images/p051s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The New Governor Looks Something Like Roosevelt]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The New Governor Looks Something Like
+      Roosevelt</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Each party must have from thirty to a couple of hundred camp
+    attendants, depending upon the number of white men in the
+    party. Each white man, requires, roughly, thirty natives to
+    take care of him. In our party of four white people we had one
+    hundred and eighteen. One would presume that the game would
+    speedily be exterminated, yet it is said that the game is
+    constantly increasing. After one day's ride on the railway it
+    would be hard to conceive of game being more plentiful than it
+    was while we were there. Mr. Roosevelt carried nearly three
+    hundred men with him, collected a great quantity of game, and
+    necessarily spent a great deal of money. It is said that the
+    expenses of his expedition approached ten thousand dollars a
+    month, but the chances are that this figure is much more than
+    the actual figure.</p>
+
+    <p>At the time of our arrival there was a shortage in the
+    porter supply, and we were obliged to take out men from a
+    number of different tribes. Swahili porters are considered the
+    best, but there are not enough to go round, so we had to take
+    Swahilis, Bagandas, Kikuyus, Kavirondos, Lumbwas, Minyamwezis,
+    and a lot more of assorted races. Each porter carries sixty
+    pounds on his head, and when the whole outfit is on the trail
+    it looks like a procession of much importance.</p>
+
+    <p>The Norfolk Hotel is the chief rendezvous of Nairobi. In the
+    course of the afternoon nearly all the white men on hunting
+    bent show up at the hotel and patronize the bar. They come in
+    wonderful hunting regalia and in all the wonderful splendor of
+    the Britisher when he is afield. There is nearly always a great
+    coming and going of men riding up, and of rickshaws arriving
+    and departing. Usually several tired sportsmen are stretched
+    out on the veranda of the long one-storied building, reading
+    the ancient London papers that are lying about. Professional
+    guides, arrayed in picturesque Buffalo Bill outfits, with spurs
+    and hunting-knives and slouch hats, are among those present,
+    and amateur sportsmen in crisp khaki and sun helmets and new
+    puttees swagger back and forth to the bar. There is no denying
+    the fact that there is considerable drinking in Nairobi. There
+    was as much before we got there as there was after we got
+    there, however. After the arrival of the European steamer at
+    Mombasa business is brisk for several days as the different
+    parties sally forth for the wilds.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p053.png"><img src="images/p053s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: At the Norfolk Hotel Bar]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>At the Norfolk Hotel Bar</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On our ship there were four different parties. A young
+    American from Boston, who has been spending several years doing
+    arch&aelig;ological work in Crete, accompanied by a young
+    English cavalry officer, were starting out for a six-weeks'
+    shoot south of the railway and near Victoria Nyanza.</p>
+
+    <p>Two professional ivory hunters were starting for German East
+    Africa by way of the lake. Mr. Boyce and his African
+    balloonograph party of seven white men were preparing for the
+    photographing expedition in the Sotik, and our party of four
+    was making final preparations for our march. Consequently there
+    was much hurrying about, and Newland and Tarlton's warehouse
+    was the center of throngs of waiting porters and the scene of
+    intense activity as each party sorted and assembled its
+    mountains of supplies.</p>
+
+    <p>Seager and Wormald got off first, going by train to Kijabe,
+    where they were to begin their ten days' march in the Sotik.
+    Here they were to try their luck for two or three weeks and
+    then march back, preparatory to starting home.</p>
+
+    <p>The professional ivory hunters were slow in starting. There
+    was delay in getting mules. One of them had shot three hundred
+    elephants in the Belgian Congo during the last four years, and
+    it was suspected he had been poaching. The other had been
+    caught by the Belgian authorities on his last trip, lost all
+    his ivory and guns by confiscation, but was ready to make
+    another try. The ivory game is a rich one and there are always
+    venturesome men who are willing to take chances with the law in
+    getting the prizes.</p>
+
+    <p>The Boyce party with its two balloons and its great number
+    of box kites and its moving picture equipment and its
+    twenty-nine cameras and its vast equipment was slow in
+    starting, but it expected to get away on September
+    twenty-fourth, the day after we left. They planned to fill
+    their balloon in Nairobi and tow it at the end of a special
+    train as far as Kijabe, where they were to strike inland from
+    the railway. They were encamped on a hill overlooking the city,
+    with their two hundred and thirty porters ready for the field
+    and their balloon ready to make the first ascension ever
+    attempted in East Africa.</p>
+
+    <p>Throngs of natives squatted about, watching the final
+    preparations, and doubtless wondered what the strange, swaying
+    object was. On the evening of the twenty-second the party gave
+    a moving picture show at one of the clubs for the benefit of
+    St. Andrew's church. A great crowd of fashionably dressed
+    people turned out and saw the motion picture records of events
+    which they had seen in life only a couple of days before. There
+    were moving pictures of the arrival of the governor's special
+    train, his march through the city, and many other events that
+    were fresh in the minds of the audience. There were also motion
+    pictures taken on the ship that brought us down from Naples to
+    Mombasa, and it was most interesting to see our fellow
+    passengers and friends reproduced before us in their various
+    athletic activities while on shipboard. Mr. Boyce gave an
+    afternoon show for children, an evening show for grown-ups, and
+    was to give another for the natives the following night. The
+    charities of Nairobi were much richer because of Mr. Boyce and
+    his African Balloonograph Expedition.</p>
+
+    <p>While in Nairobi we visited the little station where
+    experiments are being made in the "sleeping sickness." An
+    intelligent young English doctor is conducting the
+    investigations and great hopes are entertained of much new
+    information about that most mysterious ailment that has swept
+    whole colonies of blacks away in the last few years.</p>
+
+    <p>In many little bottles were specimens of the deadly tsetse
+    fly that causes all the infection. And the most deadly of all
+    was the small one whose distinguishing characteristic was its
+    wings, which crossed over its back. These we were told to look
+    out for and to avoid them, if possible. They occur only in
+    certain districts and live in the deep shade, near water. They
+    also are day-biting insects, who do their biting only between
+    eleven o'clock in the morning and five o'clock in the
+    afternoon.</p>
+
+    <p>In the station there were a number of monkeys, upon which
+    the fly was being tried. They were in various stages of the
+    disease, but it seemed impossible to tell whether their illness
+    was due to the sleeping sickness germ or was due to tick fever,
+    a common malady among monkeys. In one of the rooms of the
+    laboratory there were natives holding little cages of tsetse
+    flies against the monkeys, which were pinioned to the floor by
+    the natives. The screened cages were held close to the stomach
+    of the helpless monkey, and little apertures in the screen
+    permitted the fly to settle upon and bite the animal.</p>
+
+    <p>There are certain wide belts of land in Africa called the
+    "tsetse fly belts," where horses, mules and cattle can not
+    live. These districts have been known for a number of years,
+    long before the sleeping sickness became known. In the case of
+    animals, the danger could be minimized by keeping the animals
+    out of those belts, but in the case of humans the same can not
+    be done. One infected native from a sleeping sickness district
+    can carry the disease from one end of the country to the other,
+    and when once it breaks out the newly infected district is
+    doomed. Consequently the British authorities are greatly
+    alarmed, for by means of this deadly fly the whole population
+    of East Africa might be wiped out if no remedy is discovered.
+    It has not yet been absolutely proven that East Africa is a
+    "white man's country," and in the end it may be necessary for
+    him to give up hope of making it more than a place of temporary
+    residence and exploration.</p>
+
+    <p>We were also shown some ticks. They are the pests of Africa.
+    They exist nearly every place and carry a particularly
+    malicious germ that gives one "tick fever." It is not a deadly
+    fever, but it is recurrent and weakening. There are all kinds
+    of ticks, from little red ones no bigger than a grain of pepper
+    to big fat ones the size of a finger-nail, that are exactly the
+    color of the ground. They seem to have immortal life, for they
+    can exist for a long time without food. Doctor Ward told us of
+    some that he had put in a box, where they lived four years
+    without food or water. He also told us of one that was sent to
+    the British museum, put on a card with a pin through it, and
+    lived over two years in this condition. It is assumed, however,
+    that it sustained fatal injuries, because after a two years'
+    fight against its wound it finally succumbed.</p>
+
+    <p>We were told to avoid old camping grounds while on
+    <em>safari</em>, because these spots were usually much infested
+    with ticks waiting for new camping parties. Wild game is always
+    covered with ticks and carries them all over the land. As you
+    walk through the grass in the game country the ticks cling to
+    your clothes and immediately seek for an opening where they may
+    establish closer relations with you. Some animals, like the
+    rhino and the eland, have tick birds that sit upon their backs
+    and eat the ticks. The egrets police the eland and capture all
+    predatory ticks, while the rhino usually has half a dozen
+    little tick birds sitting upon him.</p>
+
+    <p>However, we were starting out in a day or so, and in a few
+    days expected to learn a lot more about ticks than we then
+    knew.</p>
+
+    <p>It is supposed to require a certain amount of nerve to go
+    lion shooting. It is also supposed to require an additional
+    amount to face an angry rhino or to attempt to get African
+    buffalo. The last-named creature is a vindictive, crafty beast
+    that is feared by old African hunters more than they fear any
+    other animal. In consequence of these dangers we decided that
+    it might be well to give our nerves a thorough test before
+    going out with them. If they were not in good condition it
+    would be well to know of it before rather than after going up
+    against a strange and hostile lion.</p>
+
+    <p>That is why we went up in the balloon in Nairobi. The
+    balloon was one of the two Boyce balloons and had never been
+    tried. It was small, of twelve thousand cubic feet capacity, as
+    compared with the seventy thousand foot balloons that do the
+    racing. It was also being tried at an altitude of over five
+    thousand feet under uncertain wind and heat conditions, and so
+    the element of uncertainty was aggravated. We felt that if we
+    could go up in a new balloon of a small size it might
+    demonstrate whether we should later go up a tree or stand pat
+    against a charging menagerie.</p>
+
+    <p>There was a great crowd gathered on the hill where this
+    balloon was being inflated. Since five o'clock in the morning
+    the gas had been generating in the wooden tanks, and from these
+    was being conducted by a cloth tube to the mouth of the
+    balloon. The natives squatted wonderingly about in a circle,
+    mystified and excited. At three o'clock the balloon was over
+    half filled and was swaying savagely at its anchorage. A strong
+    wind was blowing, and Mr. Lawrence, who had charge of the
+    ascension, was apprehensive. He feared to fill the balloon to
+    its capacity lest the expansion of the gas due to the hot sun
+    should explode it.</p>
+
+    <p>At half past three the basket was attached and it looked
+    small&mdash;about the size of a large bushel basket, three feet in
+    diameter and three feet deep. The balloon, heavily laden with
+    sand-bags, was lightened until it could almost rise, and in
+    this condition was led across to an open spot sufficiently far
+    from the nearest trees. The crowd thronged up pop-eyed and
+    quivering with excitement. Then there was a long wait until the
+    wind had died down a bit, which it did after a while. The
+    eventful moment had arrived, and Mr. Stephenson, of our party,
+    climbed into the basket. He is only six feet five inches in
+    height and weighs only two hundred and thirty pounds. He had on
+    a pair of heavy hunting boots, for we were leaving for the
+    hunting grounds immediately after the ascension. One by one the
+    restraining bags of sand were taken off, but still the balloon
+    sat on the ground without any inclination to do otherwise.</p>
+
+    <p>A wave of disappointment spread over the crowd. Suddenly a
+    brilliant inspiration struck the gallant a&euml;ronaut. He took
+    off one of his heavy hunting boots and cast it overboard. The
+    balloon arose a foot or two and then sagged back to earth. Then
+    the other boot was cast over and the balloon rose several feet,
+    swaying and whipping savagely over the heads of the crowd. The
+    wind was now blowing pretty hard, and when the wire was run out
+    the balloon started almost horizontally for the nearest tree,
+    rising slightly.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p061.png"><img src="images/p061s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Throwing Out Ballast]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Throwing Out Ballast</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The wire was stopped at once and the balloon thus suddenly
+    restrained, changed its horizontal course to an upward one. At
+    about sixty feet up the wire was again paid out and the balloon
+    made a dash for the trees again. Once more the balloon was
+    stopped and rose to a height of one hundred and fifty feet,
+    where it swayed about with the pleasant face of Stephenson
+    looking over the edge of the basket. He had to sit down, as
+    there was not room to stand. The ascension seemed a failure
+    with the handicap of two hundred and thirty pounds, and so the
+    balloon was reeled down to the earth again. It was not a great
+    ascension, but the amateur a&euml;ronaut had gained the
+    distinction of making the first balloon ascension ever made in
+    East Africa. He would have gone higher if his shoes had been
+    heavier.</p>
+
+    <p>To me fell the next chance, and I knew that my one hundred
+    and forty pounds would not seriously handicap the balloon. Once
+    more there was a long wait until the wind died down, and all of
+    a sudden the cylinder of wire was released and the ground sank
+    hundreds of feet below me. The horizon widened and the whole
+    vast plain of the African highlands stretched out with an
+    ever-widening horizon. New mountain peaks rose far away and
+    native villages with ant-like people moving about appeared in
+    unexpected quarters. Away below, the crowd of people looked
+    like little insects as they gazed up at the balloon. Grasping
+    the ropes that led from the basket to the balloon, I stood and
+    waved at them and could hear the shouts come up from a thousand
+    feet below.</p>
+
+    <p>I was not frightened. There was no sensation of motion as
+    long as the balloon was ascending. Aside from looking at the
+    wonderful scene that opened out before me, I believe I thought
+    chiefly about where I should land in case the wire broke. The
+    balloon would undoubtedly go many miles before descending, and
+    five miles in any direction would lead me into a primitive
+    jungle or veldt. A hundred miles would take me into almost
+    unexplored districts in some directions, where the natives
+    would greet me as some supernatural being. Perhaps I might be
+    greeted as a god and&mdash;just in the midst of these reflections
+    they began to reel in the balloon. The sudden stopping was not
+    pleasant, for then the balloon began to sway. Slowly the earth
+    came nearer and the wind howled through the rigging and the
+    partly filled bag flapped and thundered. The wire, about as
+    thick as a piano wire, looked frail, but at last after a slow
+    and tedious descent a safe landing was made amid the wondering
+    natives. Cameras clicked and the moving picture machine worked
+    busily as the balloon was secured to earth again.</p>
+
+    <p>To Mrs. Akeley of our party fell the next chance to go up.
+    As she was lifted into the basket the feminine population of
+    Nairobi gazed in wonder that a woman should dare venture up in
+    a balloon. The cameras clicked some more, somebody shook hands
+    with her, and it began to look quite like a leave-taking. Just
+    when all was ready the wind sprang up savagely and an ascension
+    seemed inexpedient. There was a long wait and still the wind
+    continued in gusts. At last it was determined that we might as
+    well settle down for better conditions, so Mrs. Akeley was
+    lifted out and we waited impatiently for the wind to die
+    down.</p>
+
+    <p>At last it died down, all was hurriedly prepared for the
+    ascension, and Mrs. Akeley took her place again in the basket.
+    In an instant the balloon shot up a couple of hundred feet and
+    was held there for a moment. The wind once more sprang up and
+    the balloon was drawn down amid the cheers of the crowd. She
+    had been the first woman to make an ascension in British East
+    Africa, if not in all of Africa.</p>
+
+    <p>We then mounted our mules and rode out on the open plains.
+    Several hours before, our entire camp had moved and we were to
+    join them at a prearranged spot out on the Athi Plains. All our
+    preliminary worries were over and at last we were actually
+    started. At six o'clock, far across the country we saw the
+    gleaming lights of our camp-fires and the green tents that were
+    to be our homes for many weeks to come. Enormous herds of
+    hartebeest and wildebeest were on each side, and countless
+    zebras. That night two of us heard the first bark of the zebra,
+    and we thought it must be the bark of distant dogs. It was one
+    of our first surprises to learn that zebras bark instead of
+    neigh.</p>
+  </div><a name="V" id="V"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+    <h3>INTO THE HEART OF THE BIG GAME COUNTRY WITH A RETINUE OF
+    MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED NATIVES. A SAFARI AND WHAT IT IS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">When</span> I first expressed my intention
+    of going to East Africa to shoot big game some of my friends
+    remarked, in surprise: "Why, I didn't know that you were so
+    bloodthirsty!" They seemed to think that the primary object of
+    such an expedition was to slay animals, none of which had done
+    anything to me, and that to wish to embark in any such project
+    was an evidence of bloodthirstiness. I tried to explain that I
+    had no particular grudge against any of the African fauna, and
+    that the thing I chiefly desired to do was to get out in the
+    open, far from the picture post-card, and enjoy experiences
+    which could not help being wonderful and strange and perhaps
+    exciting.</p>
+
+    <p>The shooting of animals merely for the sake of killing them
+    is, of course, not an elevating sport, but the by-products of
+    big game hunting in Africa are among the most delightful and
+    inspiring of all experiences. For weeks or months you live a
+    nomadic tent life amid surroundings so different from what you
+    are accustomed to that one is both mentally and physically
+    rejuvenated. You are among strange and savage people, in
+    strange and savage lands, and always threatened by strange and
+    savage animals. The life is new and the scenery new. There is
+    adventure and novelty in every day of such a life, and it is
+    that phase of it that has the most insistent appeal. It is the
+    call of the wild to which the pre-Adamite monkey in our nature
+    responds.</p>
+
+    <p>Even if one never used his rifle one would still enjoy life
+    on <em>safari</em>. <em>Safari</em> is an Arabic word meaning
+    expedition as it is understood in that country. If you go on
+    any sort of a trip you are on <em>safari</em>. It need not be a
+    shooting trip.</p>
+
+    <p>Of course everybody who has read the magazines of the last
+    year has been more or less familiarized with African hunting.
+    He has read of the amount of game that the authors have killed
+    and of the narrow escapes that they have had.</p>
+
+    <p>He also has read about expeditions into districts with
+    strange names, but naturally these names have meant nothing to
+    him. I know that I read reams of African stuff about big game
+    shooting and about <em>safari</em>, yet in spite of all that, I
+    remained in the dark as to many details of such a life. I
+    wanted to know what kind of money or trade stuff the hunter
+    carried; what sort of things he had to eat each day; what he
+    wore, and how he got from place to place. Most writers have a
+    way of saying: "We equipped our <em>safari</em> in Nairobi and
+    made seven marches to such and such a place, where we ran into
+    some excellent eland." All the important small details are thus
+    left out, and the reader remains in ignorance of what the tent
+    boy does, who skins the game that is killed, and what sort of a
+    cook stove they use.</p>
+
+    <p>The purpose of this chapter is to tell something about the
+    little things that happen on <em>safari</em>. First of all, at
+    the risk of repeating what has been written so often before, I
+    will say a few words about the personnel of a <em>safari</em>,
+    such as the one I was with.</p>
+
+    <p>There were four white people in our expedition&mdash;Mr. and Mrs.
+    Akeley, Mr. Stephenson, and myself. Mr. Akeley's chief object
+    was to get a group of five elephants for the American Museum of
+    Natural History and incidentally secure photographic and moving
+    picture records of animal life. Both he and Mrs. Akeley had
+    been in Africa before and knew the country as thoroughly
+    perhaps as any who has ever been there. Mr. Akeley undoubtedly
+    is the foremost taxidermist of the world, and his work is
+    famous wherever African animal life has been studied. Mr.
+    Stephenson went for the experience in African shooting, and I
+    for that experience and any other sort that might turn up.</p>
+
+    <p>To supply an expedition of four white people, we had one
+    head-man, whose duty it was to run the <em>safari</em>&mdash;that
+    is, to get us where we wanted to go. The success and pleasure
+    of the <em>safari</em> depends almost wholly upon the head-man.
+    If he is weak, the discipline of the camp will disappear and
+    all sorts of annoyances will steadily increase. If he is
+    strong, everything will run smoothly.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p068.png"><img src="images/p068s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Cook&mdash;A Toto&mdash;The Head-Man]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Cook&mdash;A Toto&mdash;The Head-Man</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our head-man was a young Somali, named Abdi. For several
+    years he was with Mr. McMillan of Juja farm, and he spoke
+    English well and knew the requirements of white men. He was
+    strikingly handsome, efficient, and ruled the native porters
+    firmly and kindly. Each day we patted ourselves on the back
+    because of Abdi.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0579.jpg"><img src="images/img0579s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. It Is Tropical Along the Athi River]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>It Is Tropical Along the Athi River</p><a href=
+      "images/img0675a.jpg"><img src="images/img0675as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Hippos in the Tana River]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Hippos in the Tana River</p><a href=
+      "images/img0675b.jpg"><img src="images/img0675bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Our Camp Down on the Tana]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Our Camp Down on the Tana</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Second in the list came our four gunbearers, all Somalis,
+    they being considered the best gunbearers. The duty of the
+    gunbearer is always to be with you when you are hunting, to
+    carry your gun, and to have it in your hand the instant it is
+    needed. Then there were four second gunbearers, who came along
+    just behind the first gunbearers. The second men were, in our
+    case, selected from the native porters, and were subject to the
+    orders of the first gunbearer. The first gunbearer carries your
+    field-glasses and your light, long-range rifle; the second
+    gunbearer carries your camera, your water bottle, and your
+    heavy cordite double-barreled rifle. In close quarters, as in a
+    lion fight, the first gunbearer crouches at your elbow, hands
+    the big rifle to you; you fire, and he immediately takes the
+    rifle and places in your hands the other rifle, ready for
+    firing. By the time you have fired this one the first is again
+    ready, and in this way you always have a loaded rifle ready for
+    use. There frequently is no time for turning around, and so the
+    first gunbearer is at your elbow with the barrel of one rifle
+    pressed against your right leg that you may know that he is
+    there. Sometimes they run away, but the Somali gunbearers are
+    the most fearless and trustworthy, and seldom desert in time of
+    need. The gunbearer has instructions never to fire unless his
+    master is disarmed and down before the charge of a beast. When
+    an animal is killed the gunbearers skin it and care for the
+    trophy. Usually when on a shooting jaunt of several hours from
+    camp several porters go along to carry home the game.</p>
+
+    <p>Third in the social scale came the askaris&mdash;armed natives in
+    uniforms who guard the camp at night. One or more patrol the
+    camp all night long, keep up the fires and scare away any
+    marauding lion or hyena that may approach the camp. We had four
+    askaris, one of whom was the noisiest man I have ever heard. He
+    reminded me of a congressman when congress is not in
+    session.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p070.png"><img src="images/p070s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Gunbearer&mdash;Askari&mdash;Tent Boy&mdash;Porter]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Gunbearer&mdash;Askari&mdash;Tent Boy&mdash;Porter</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Then came the cook, who is always quite an important member
+    of the community, because much of the pleasure of the
+    <em>safari</em> depends upon him. Our cook was one that the
+    Akeleys had on their former trip. His name was Abdullah, he had
+    a jovial face and a beaming smile, cooked well, and was funny
+    to look at. He wore a slouch hat with a red band around it, a
+    khaki suit and heavy shoes. When on the march he carried his
+    shoes and when in camp he wore a blue jersey and a polka-dotted
+    apron which took the place of trousers. He was good-natured,
+    which atoned somewhat for his slowness. The suggestion may be
+    made that he might not have been slow, but that our appetites
+    might have been so fast that he seemed slow.</p>
+
+    <p>The cook usually picks out a likely porter to help him, or a
+    <em>toto</em>, which means "little boy" in Swahili. There are
+    always a lot of boys who go along, unofficially, just for the
+    fun and the food of the trip. They are not hired, but go as
+    stowaways, and for the first few days out remain much in the
+    background. Gradually they appear more and more until all
+    chance of their being sent back has disappeared, and then they
+    become established members of the party. They carry small loads
+    and help brighten up the camp. Then there are the tent boys,
+    personal servants of the white people. Each white person has
+    his tent boy, who takes care of his tent, his bedding, his
+    bath, his clothes, and all his personal effects. A good tent
+    boy is a great feature on <em>safari</em>, for he relieves his
+    master of all the little worries of life. The tent boys always
+    wait on the table and do the family washing. They also see that
+    the drinking water is boiled and filtered and that the water
+    bottles are filled each evening.</p>
+
+    <p>Last of all come the porters, of whom we had eighty. There
+    were Swahilis, Wakambas, Kikuyus, Masai, Minyamwezis, Lumbwas,
+    Bagandas, Kavirondos, and doubtless members of various other
+    tribes. It was their duty to carry the camp from place to
+    place, each porter carrying sixty pounds on his head. When they
+    arrive at the spot selected for camp they put up the tents, get
+    in firewood, and carry in what game may later be shot by the
+    white men.</p>
+
+    <p>Then, lowest in the social scale, are the saises, or grooms.
+    There is one for each mule or horse, of which we had four. The
+    sais is always at hand to hold the mount and is supposed to
+    take care of it after hours.</p>
+
+    <p>The foregoing members of our personally conducted party,
+    therefore, included:</p>
+
+    <table border="0" class="c9" align="center" summary=
+    "list of personel">
+      <tr>
+        <td>Head-man</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">1</td>
+
+        <td width="150">&nbsp;</td>
+
+        <td>Tent Boys</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">4</td>
+      </tr>
+
+      <tr>
+        <td>Gunbearers</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">4</td>
+
+        <td width="150">&nbsp;</td>
+
+        <td>Porters</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">80</td>
+      </tr>
+
+      <tr>
+        <td>Askaris</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">4</td>
+
+        <td width="150">&nbsp;</td>
+
+        <td>Saises</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">4</td>
+      </tr>
+
+      <tr>
+        <td>Cook</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">1</td>
+
+        <td width="150">&nbsp;</td>
+
+        <td>"Totos"</td>
+
+        <td width="50" align="right">20</td>
+      </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p>The head-man and the four gunbearers get seventy-five rupees
+    a month, the askaris fifteen rupees, the cook forty rupees, the
+    tent boys twenty and twenty-five rupees, depending upon
+    experience, the porters ten rupees, and the saises twelve
+    rupees. The <em>totos</em> get nothing except food and lodging,
+    as well as experience, which may be valuable when they grow up
+    to be porters at ten rupees a month. A rupee is about
+    thirty-three cents American. We were also required by law to
+    provide a water bottle, blanket, and sweater for each porter,
+    as well as uniforms and water bottles, shoes and blankets for
+    all the other members of the party. We also supplied twenty
+    tents for them.</p>
+
+    <p>For the first day or two on <em>safari</em> there may be
+    little hitches and delays, but after a short time the work is
+    reduced to a beautiful system, and camp is broken or pitched in
+    a remarkably short time. The porters get into the habit of
+    carrying a certain load and so there is usually little
+    confusion in distributing the packs.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0677.jpg"><img src="images/img0677s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: At the Edge of the Athi River]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>At the Edge of the Athi River</p><a href=
+      "images/img0581.jpg"><img src="images/img0581s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Totos Are Not Fastidious]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Totos Are Not Fastidious</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Life and activity begin early in camp. You go to bed early
+    and before dawn you are awakened by the singing of countless
+    birds of many kinds. The air is fresh and cool, and you draw
+    your woolen blankets a little closer around you. The tent is
+    closed, but through the little cracks you can see that all is
+    still dark. In a few moments a faint grayness steals into the
+    air, and off in the half darkness you hear the Somali
+    gunbearers chanting their morning prayers&mdash;soft, musical, and
+    soothing. Then there are more voices murmuring in the air and
+    the camp slowly awakens to life. Some one is heard chopping
+    wood, and by that time day breaks with a crash. All is life,
+    and the birds are singing as though mad with the joy of life
+    and sunshine. A little later a shadowy figure appears by your
+    cot and says, "<em>Chai, bwana</em>" which means, "Tea,
+    master."</p>
+
+    <p>You turn over and slowly sip the hot tea, while outside in
+    the clear morning air the sound of voices grows and grows until
+    you know that eighty or a hundred men are busy getting their
+    breakfasts. The crackling of many fires greets your ears and
+    the pungent smell of wood fires salutes your nostrils. You look
+    at your watch and it is perhaps five or half past. The air is
+    still cold and you hasten to slip out of your cot. It is never
+    considered wise to bathe in the morning here.</p>
+
+    <p>Your shoes or boots are by your bed, all oiled and cleaned,
+    and your puttees are neatly rolled, ready to be wound around
+    you from the tops of the shoes to the knee. Your clean flannels
+    (one always wears heavy flannel underclothes and heavy woolen
+    socks in this climate) are laid out and your clothes for the
+    day's march are ready for you. You get into your clothes and
+    boots, go out of your tent, and find there a basin of hot water
+    and your toilet equipment. The basin is supported on a
+    three-pronged stick thrust into the ground and makes a
+    thoroughly satisfactory washstand. The fire in front of the
+    cook's tent is burning merrily and he and his assistants are
+    busily at work on the morning breakfast. Twenty other
+    camp-fires are burning around the twenty small white tents that
+    the porters and others occupy, and scores of half-clad natives
+    are cooking their breakfasts. The ration that we were required
+    to give them was a pound and a half of ground-corn a day for
+    each man, but in good hunting country we got them a good deal
+    of meat to eat. They are very fond of hartebeest, zebra, rhino,
+    and especially hippo. In fact, they are eager to eat any kind
+    of meat, so that anything we killed was certain to be of
+    practical use as food for the porters. This fact greatly
+    relieves the conscience of the man who shoots an animal for its
+    fine horns. Six porters sleep in each of the little shelter
+    tents which we were required to supply them, and this number
+    sleeping so closely packed served to keep them warm through the
+    cold African highland nights.</p>
+
+    <p>By six o'clock our folding table in the mess tent is laid
+    with white linen and white enamel dishes for breakfast. So we
+    take our places. If we are in a fruit country we have some
+    oranges and bananas or papayas, a sort of pawpaw that is most
+    delicious; it is a cross between a cantaloupe and a mango. Then
+    we have oatmeal with evaporated cream and sugar; then we have
+    choice cuts from some animal that was killed the day
+    before&mdash;usually the liver or the tenderloin. Then we have eggs
+    and finish up on jam or marmalade and honey. We have coffee for
+    breakfast and tea for the other meals.</p>
+
+    <p>While we are eating the tent boys have packed our tin
+    trunks, our folding tent table, our cots and our pillows, cork
+    mattresses and blankets. The gunbearer gets our two favorite
+    rifles and cameras, field-glasses and water bottles. Then down
+    comes the double-roofed green tents, all is wrapped into
+    closely-packed bags, and before we are through with breakfast
+    all the tented village has disappeared and only the mess tent
+    and the two little outlying canvas shelters remain. It is a
+    scene of great activity. Porters are busily making up their
+    packs and the head-man with the askaris are busy directing
+    them. In a half-hour all that remains is a scattered assortment
+    of bundles, all neatly bound up in stout cords.</p>
+
+    <p>One man may carry a tent-bag and poles, another a tin
+    uniform case with a shot-gun strapped on top; another may have
+    a bedding roll and a chair or table, and so on until the whole
+    outfit is reduced to eighty compact bundles which include the
+    food for the porters, the ant-proof food boxes with our own
+    food, and the horns and skins of our trophies. The work of
+    breaking camp is reduced to a science.</p>
+
+    <p>Our gunbearers are waiting and the saises with the mules are
+    in readiness. So we start off, usually walking the first hour
+    or two, with gunbearers and saises and mules trailing along
+    behind. Soon afterward we look back to see the long procession
+    of porters following along in single file. Our tent boys carry
+    our third rifle, and behind them all comes the head-man, ready
+    to spur on any lagging porters.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p076.png"><img src="images/p076s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Our Safari on the March]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Our Safari on the March</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The early morning hours are bright and cool, but along about
+    nine o'clock the equatorial sun begins to beat down upon our
+    heavy sun helmets and our red-lined and padded spine
+    protectors. But it is seldom hot for long. A cloud passes
+    across the sun and instantly everything is cooled. A wave of
+    wind sweeps across the hill and cools the moist brow like a
+    camphor compress. An instant later the sun is out again and the
+    land lies swimming in the shimmer of heat waves. Distant hills
+    swim on miragic lakes, and if we are in plains country the
+    mirages appear upon all sides.</p>
+
+    <p>We rarely shot while on a march from camp to camp. We walked
+    or rode along, watching the swarms of game that slowly moved
+    away as we approached. The scenery was beautiful. Sometimes we
+    wound along on game trails or native trails through vast
+    park-like stretches of rolling hills; at other times we climbed
+    across low hills studded with thorn scrub, while off in the
+    distance rose the blue hills and mountains. To the northward,
+    always with us, was the great Mount Kenia, eighteen thousand
+    feet high and nearly always veiled with masses of clouds. On
+    her slopes are great droves of elephants, and we could pick out
+    the spot where three years before Mrs. Akeley had killed her
+    elephant with the record pair of tusks.</p>
+
+    <p>Our marches were seldom long. At noon or even earlier we
+    arrived at our new camping place, ten or twelve miles from our
+    starting of the morning. Frequently we loitered along so that
+    the porters might get there first and the camp be fully
+    established when we arrived. At other times we arrived early
+    and picked out a spot, where ticks and malaria were not likely
+    to be bothersome.</p>
+
+    <p>We usually camped near a river. Our first camp was on the
+    Athi Plains, near Nairobi; our second at Nairobi Falls, where
+    the river plunges down a sixty-foot drop in a spot of great
+    beauty. Our third camp was on the Induruga River, in a
+    beautiful but malarious spot; our fifth was on the Thika Thika
+    River, where it was so cold in the morning that the vapor of
+    our breathing was visible; and our sixth on a wind-blown hill
+    where a whirlwind blew down our mess tent and scattered the
+    cook's fire until the whole grass veldt was in furious flames.
+    It took a hundred men an hour to put out the flames.</p>
+
+    <p>Our next camp was at Fort Hall, where a poisonous snake came
+    into my tent while I was working. It crawled under my chair and
+    was by my feet when I saw it. It was chased out and killed in
+    the grass near my tent, and a porter cut out the fangs to show
+    me. For a day or two I looked before putting on my shoes, but
+    after that I ceased to think of it.</p>
+
+    <p>After that time our camps were along the Tana River, in a
+    beautiful country thronged with game, but, unhappily, a
+    district into which comparatively few hunters come on account
+    of the fever that is said to prevail there. We were obliged to
+    leave our mules at Fort Hall because it was considered certain
+    death to them if we took them into this fly belt.</p>
+
+    <p>When the porters arrive at a camping place a good spot is
+    picked out for our four tents and mess tent, the cook tent is
+    located, and in a short time the camp is ready. In my tent the
+    cot is spread, with blankets airing; the mosquito net is up,
+    the table is ready, with toilet articles, books and cigars laid
+    out. The three tin uniform cases are in their places, my
+    cameras are in their places, as are also the guns and lanterns.
+    A floor cloth covers the ground and a long easy chair is ready
+    for occupancy. Towels and water are ready, and pajamas and
+    cholera belt are on the pillow of the cot. Everything is done
+    that should be done, and I am immediately in a well established
+    house with all my favorite articles in their accustomed
+    places.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p079.png"><img src="images/p079s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Safari in Camp]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Safari in Camp</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>A luncheon, with fruit, meat, curry and a pastry is ready by
+    the time we are, and then we smoke or sleep through the
+    broiling midday hours. Mr. Stephenson&mdash;or "Fred," as he is with
+    us&mdash;and I go out on a scouting expedition and look for good
+    specimens to add to our collection of horns or to get food for
+    the porters. Sometimes the whole party went out, either
+    photographing charging rhinos or shooting, but this part of the
+    daily program was usually too varied to generalize as part of
+    the daily doings. Several porters went with each of us to bring
+    in the game, which there is rarely any uncertainty of
+    securing.</p>
+
+    <p>In the evening we return and find our baths of hot water
+    ready. We take off our heavy hunting boots and slip into the
+    soft mosquito boots. After which dinner is ready and our menu
+    is strangely varied. Sometimes we have kongoni steaks, at other
+    times we have the heart of waterbuck or the liver of bushbuck
+    or impalla. Twice we had rhino tongue and once rhino tail soup.
+    We eat, and at six o'clock the darkness of night suddenly
+    spreads over the land. We talk over our several adventures of
+    the afternoon, some of which may be quite thrilling, and then,
+    with camp chairs drawn around the great camp-fire, and with the
+    sentinel askari pacing back and forth, we spend a drowsy hour
+    in talking. Gradually the sounds of night come on. Off there a
+    hyena is howling or a zebra is barking, and we know that
+    through all those shadowy masses of trees the beasts of prey
+    are creeping forth for their night's hunting. The porters'
+    tents are ranged in a wide semicircle, and their camp-fires
+    show little groups of men squatting about them. Somewhere one
+    is playing a tin flute, another is playing a French harp, and
+    some are singing. It is a picture never to be forgotten, and
+    rich with a charm that will surely always send forth its call
+    to the restless soul of the man who goes back to the city.</p>
+
+    <p>Sometimes the evening program is different. When one of us
+    brings in some exceptional trophy there is a great celebration,
+    with singing and native dances, and cheers for the Bwana who
+    did the heroic deed. The first lion in a camp is a signal for
+    great rejoicing and celebrating&mdash;however, that is another
+    story&mdash;the story of my first lion.</p>
+
+    <p>At nine o'clock the tents are closed and all the camp is
+    quiet in sleep. Outside in the darkness the askari paces to and
+    fro, and the thick masses of foliage stand out in inky
+    blackness against the brilliant tropic night. We are far from
+    civilization, but one has as great a feeling of security as
+    though he were surrounded by chimneys and electric lights. And
+    no sleep is sweeter than that which has come after a day's
+    marching over sun-swept hills or through the tangled reed beds
+    where every sense must always be on the alert for hidden
+    dangers.</p>
+  </div><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+
+    <h3>A LION DRIVE. WITH A RHINO IN RANGE SOME ONE SHOUTS "SIMBA"
+    AND I GET MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF A WILD LION. THREE SHOTS AND
+    OUT</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Like</span> every one who goes to Africa
+    with a gun and a return ticket, I had two absorbing ambitions.
+    One was to kill a lion and the other to live to tell about it.
+    In my estimation all the other animals compared to a lion as
+    latitude eighty-seven and a half compares to the north pole. I
+    wanted to climb out of the Tartarin of Tarascon class of near
+    lion hunters into the ranks of those who are entitled to
+    remark, "Once, when I was in Africa shooting lions," etc. A
+    dead lion is bogey in the big game sport&mdash;the score that every
+    hunter dreams of achieving&mdash;and I was extremely eager to make
+    the dream a reality.</p>
+
+    <p>When speaking with English sportsmen in London my first
+    question was, "Did you get any lions?" If they had, they at
+    once rose in my estimation; if not, no matter how many
+    elephants or rhinos or buffaloes they may have shot, they still
+    remained in the amateur class.</p>
+
+    <p>On the steamer going down to Mombasa the hunting talk was
+    four-fifths lion and one-fifth about other game. The cripple
+    who had been badly mauled by a lion was a person of much
+    distinction, even more so than the ivory hunter who had killed
+    three hundred elephants.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0679.jpg"><img src="images/img0679s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson's Lion]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Mr. Stephenson's Lion</p><a href=
+      "images/img0583.jpg"><img src="images/img0583s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Post Mortem Inquiry]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Post Mortem Inquiry</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On the railway to Nairobi every eye was on the lookout for
+    lions and every one gazed with intense interest at the station
+    of Tsavo and remembered the famous pair of man-eaters that had
+    terrorized that place some years before.</p>
+
+    <p>In Nairobi the men who had killed lions, and those who had
+    been mauled by them (and there are many of the latter), were
+    objects of vast concern, and the little cemetery with its many
+    headstones marked "Killed by lion" added still greater fire to
+    my interest.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p083.png"><img src="images/p083s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Jolly Little Cemetery]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Jolly Little Cemetery</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Consequently, when we marched out of Nairobi on the evening
+    of September twenty-third, with tents and guns and a hundred
+    and twenty men, the dominating thought was of lions. If ever
+    any one had greater hope and less expectation of killing a lion
+    I was the one.</p>
+
+    <p>We had planned a short trip of from three to five weeks
+    northeast of Nairobi in what is called the Tana River country.
+    While there are some lions in that section, as there are in
+    most parts of British East Africa, it is not considered a good
+    lion country. Buffaloes, rhinos, hippos, giraffes, and many
+    varieties of smaller game are abundant, largely because the
+    Tana River is in a bad fever belt and hunting parties generally
+    prefer to go elsewhere. This preliminary trip was intended to
+    perfect our shooting, so that later, when in real lion country,
+    we might be better equipped to take on the king of beasts with
+    some promise of hitting him.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p084.png"><img src="images/p084s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Peering for Lions]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Peering for Lions</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The tree-tops and corrugated iron roofs of Nairobi had
+    hardly dropped behind a long, sun-soaked hump of the Athi
+    Plains when I began to peel my eyes inquiringly for lions. All
+    the lion stories that I had heard for the preceding few months
+    paraded back and forth in my memory, and if ever a horizon was
+    thoroughly scanned for lion, that horizon just out of Nairobi
+    was the one. Hartebeests in droves loped awkwardly away from
+    the trail and then turned and looked with wondering interest at
+    us. Zebras, too fat to run, trotted off, and also turned to
+    observe the invaders. Gazelles did the same, and away off in
+    the distance a few wildebeests went galloping slowly to a safe
+    distance. They were probably safe at any distance had they only
+    known it, for up to the hour when I cantered forth from Nairobi
+    in quest of lions and rhinos I had not shot at anything for
+    three years, nor hit anything for ten.</p>
+
+    <p>Night came on&mdash;the black, sudden night of Africa&mdash;and we
+    went into camp four miles from Nairobi without ever having
+    heard the welcome roar of a lion. It was a distinct
+    disappointment. I remembered the story about the lions that
+    stampeded the zebras through the peaceful gardens of Nairobi
+    only a few nights before&mdash;also the report that some man-eaters
+    had been recently partaking of nourishment along the very road
+    upon which we were now camping. I also remembered hearing that
+    lions had been seen prowling around the edge of the town and
+    that the Athi Plains are a time-honored habitat of the lion
+    family. On the other hand, I thought of Mr. Roosevelt, who had
+    recently been reducing the supply. I also remembered how many
+    hunters had spent years in Africa without ever seeing a lion,
+    and how Doctor Rainsford had made two different hunting trips
+    to Africa, always looking for lions, but without success.</p>
+
+    <p>During our first three days of marching, we looked
+    industriously for lions. On broad, grassy plain, in low scrub,
+    on the slopes of low hills&mdash;everywhere we looked for them. If a
+    flock of vultures circled above a distant spot we went over at
+    once in the hope of surprising a lion at his kill. Every reed
+    bed was promptly investigated, every dry nullah was explored.
+    McMillan's farm, which is a farm only in name, was scoured
+    without ever a sign or a hint that a lion lurked thereabouts.
+    Mr. McMillan has four lions in a cage, but they snarled so
+    savagely that we hastened away to look for lions elsewhere. The
+    second day we crossed the Nairobi River, the third day we
+    crossed the Induruga River, and the fourth day we camped down
+    on the Athi River. Here we struck a clue. Two English settlers
+    came over and told us that lions had been heard the night
+    before near their ranch house, on the slopes of Donyo Sabuk, a
+    high solitary round top mountain rising from the Athi Plains,
+    and we determined to organize our first lion hunt. It was here
+    that Mr. Lucas was killed by a lion a short time before.</p>
+
+    <p>A lion hunt, or a lion drive, is quite a ceremony. You take
+    thirty or forty natives, go to the place where the lion was
+    heard, and then beat every bit of cover in the hope of scaring
+    out the beasts. Lions are fond of lying up during the day in
+    dry reed beds, and when you go out looking for them, you are
+    most likely to find them in such places.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0681.jpg"><img src="images/img0681s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson's Splendid Buffalo]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Mr. Stephenson's Splendid Buffalo</p><a href=
+      "images/img0585a.jpg"><img src="images/img0585as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: &quot;Lion Camp&quot;]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>"Lion Camp"</p><a href="images/img0585b.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0585bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Lion and Lioness in Camp]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Lion and Lioness in Camp</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We started, three of us, with forty porters, at about
+    daybreak. At seven o'clock we had climbed up the side of the
+    mountain to the spot where the lions were supposed to be
+    lurking&mdash;a long, reed-filled cleft in the side of the slope.
+    The porters were sent up to one end of the reed bed, twenty on
+    each side, while we went below to where the lion would probably
+    be driven out by their shouting and noise. The porters
+    bombarded the reeds with stones while we waited with rifles
+    ready for the angry creature to dash out in our vicinity. It
+    was an interesting wait, with plenty of food for thought. I
+    wondered why the Englishmen had not come out to get the lions
+    themselves, and then remembered that one of them had been
+    mauled by a lion and had henceforth remained neutral in all
+    lion fights. I wondered many other things which I have now
+    forgotten. I was quite busy wondering for some time as I
+    waited. In the meantime the lions failed to appear.</p>
+
+    <p>Bushbuck, waterbuck, and lots of other herbivora appeared,
+    but no carnivora. We raked the reed bed fore and aft, and
+    combed the long grass in every direction. A young rhino was
+    startled in his morning nap, ran around excitedly for a while,
+    and then trotted off. Birds of many varieties fluttered up and
+    wondered what the racket was about. At ten o'clock we decided
+    that the lions had failed to do their part of the program, and
+    that no further developments were to be expected. So we marched
+    back homeward, got mixed up with another rhino, and finally
+    gained camp, seven miles away, just as our hunger had reached
+    an advanced stage.</p>
+
+    <p>The next day we marched to the Thika Thika River, then to
+    Punda Milia, and then to Fort Hall. Some one claimed to have
+    heard a lion out from Fort Hall early in the morning, but I
+    more than half suspect it was one of our porters who
+    reverberates when he sleeps. From Fort Hall we crossed the Tana
+    and made three marches down the river. Rhinos were everywhere
+    jumping out from behind bushes when least expected and in many
+    ways behaving in a most diverting way. For a time we forgot
+    lions while dodging rhinos. There were dozens of them in the
+    thick, low scrub, with now and then a bunch of eland, or a herd
+    of waterbuck, or a few hundred of the ubiquitous kongoni.</p>
+
+    <p>We camped in a beautiful spot down on the Tana. The country
+    looked like a park, with graceful trees scattered about on the
+    rolling lawn-like hills. On all sides was game in great
+    profusion. Hippos played about in the river, baboons scampered
+    about on the edge of the water, monkeys chattered in the trees,
+    and it seemed as though nearly all of the eight hundred
+    varieties of East African birds gave us a morning serenade. A
+    five-minutes' walk from camp would show you a rhino, while from
+    the top of any knoll one could look across a vast sweep of
+    hills upon which almost countless numbers of zebras, kongoni,
+    and other animals might be seen.</p>
+
+    <p>But never a lion. It certainly looked discouraging.</p>
+
+    <p>As a form of pleasant excitement, we began to photograph
+    rhinos, Mr. Akeley took out his moving-picture machine,
+    advanced it cautiously to within a few yards of the
+    unsuspecting rhino, and then we tried to provoke a charge. We
+    took a dozen or more rhinos in this way, often approaching to
+    within a few yards, and if there is any more exciting diversion
+    I don't know what it is. I've looped the loop and there is no
+    comparison. It is more like being ambushed by Filipino
+    insurgents&mdash;that is, it's the same kind of excitement, with
+    more danger.</p>
+
+    <p>One day it was necessary to shoot a big bull rhino. He
+    staggered and fell, but at once got up and trotted over a hill.
+    Having wounded him, it was then necessary for me to follow him,
+    which I did for three blazing hours. From nine o'clock till
+    twelve I followed, with the sun beating down on the dry,
+    grass-covered hills as though it meant to burn up everything
+    beneath it. If any one had asked me, "Is it hot enough for
+    you?" I should have answered "Yes" without a moment's
+    hesitation. The horizon shimmered in waves of heat. From the
+    top of one hill I could see my rhino half a mile away on the
+    slope of another. When I reached the slope he was a mile
+    farther on. I began to think he was a mirage. For a wounded
+    animal, with two five-hundred-grain shells in his shoulder, he
+    was the most astonishing example of vitality I have ever seen.
+    He would have been safe against a Gatling gun. There were more
+    low trees a mile farther on, and I plodded doggedly on in the
+    hope of getting a little relief from the sun. As I drew near I
+    noticed a rhino standing under the trees, but he was not the
+    wounded one. I decided that the shade was insufficient for both
+    of us and moved swiftly on. Across the valley on the slope of
+    another blistered hill stood the one I was looking for. He
+    didn't seem to be in the chastened mood of one who is about to
+    die. He seemed vexed about something, probably the two cordite
+    shells he was carrying. I at last came up within a hundred
+    yards of him. He had got my wind and was facing me with tail
+    nervously erect. The tail of a rhino is an infallible barometer
+    of his state of mind. With his short sight, I knew that he
+    could not see me at that distance, but I knew that he had
+    detected the direction in which the danger lay. By slowly
+    moving ahead, the distance was cut to about seventy yards,
+    which was not too far away in an open country with a wounded
+    rhino in the foreground. I resolved to shoot before he charged
+    or before he ran away, and so I prepared to end the long chase
+    with an unerring shot.</p>
+
+    <p>Suddenly a sound struck my ear that acted upon me like an
+    electric shock:</p>
+
+    <p>"<em>Simba!</em>"</p>
+
+    <p>It was the one word that I had been hoping to hear ever
+    since leaving Nairobi, for the word means "lion." My Somali
+    gunbearer was eagerly pointing toward a lone tree that stood a
+    hundred yards off to the left. A huge, hulking animal was
+    slowly moving away from it. It was my first glimpse of a wild
+    lion. He was half concealed in the tall, dry grass and in a few
+    seconds had entirely disappeared from view. We rushed after
+    him. The rhino was completely forgotten and was left to charge
+    or run away as he saw fit. When we reached the spot where the
+    lion was last seen there was no trace of him. He apparently was
+    not "as brave as a lion." We followed the course that he
+    presumably took and presently reached the crest of a ridge.
+    Then the second gunbearer, a keen-eyed Kikuyu, discovered the
+    lion three hundred yards off to the right. After reaching the
+    top of the hill the animal had swung directly off at right
+    angles with the idea of reaching cover in a dry creek bed some
+    distance away. I started to shoot at three hundred yards, but
+    before I could take a careful aim the lion had disappeared in
+    the grass. For an hour we thrashed the high reeds in the dry
+    creek bed with never a sign of the king of beasts. He had
+    apparently abdicated. He had vanished so completely that I
+    thought he had escaped toward some low hills a mile farther on.
+    The disappointment of seeing a lion and not getting it, or at
+    least shooting at it, was keen to a degree that actually
+    hurt.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p091.png"><img src="images/p091s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Game Was Plenty for a Minute or Two]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Game Was Plenty for a Minute or Two</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There was nothing left but to resume our chase after the
+    wounded rhino. It was like going back to work after a pleasant
+    two weeks' vacation. We presently found him on a far distant
+    hill, and after an hour's tramp in the sun we came up to him in
+    the middle of the rolling prairie. There was not a tree for a
+    mile, nor a single avenue of escape in case he charged.
+    Horticulture had never interested me especially, but just at
+    this moment I think a tree, even a thorn tree, would have been
+    a pleasant subject for intimate study. However, to make a long
+    story longer, I shot him at a hundred yards and felt certain
+    that both shells struck. Yet he wheeled around and, stumbling
+    occasionally, was off like a railway train. Again we followed,
+    two miles of desperate tramping in that merciless sun, up hills
+    and down hills, until finally we entirely lost all trace of
+    him. It was now two o'clock. I had eaten nothing since five
+    o'clock in the morning, my water bottle was so nearly empty
+    that I dared take only a swallow at a time, my knees were sore
+    from climbing hills and wading through the tall, dry prairie
+    grass, and I decided to give up this endless pursuit of a rhino
+    who wouldn't die after being hit with four cordite shells.</p>
+
+    <p>The dry creek bed lay in the course of our homeward march,
+    and we resolved to take a final look at it. There seemed no
+    likelihood that the lion was there, and I walked into the place
+    with the supreme courage of one who doesn't expect to find
+    anything hostile. My head gunbearer and I had crossed and were
+    walking down in the grass at one side. My second gunbearer was
+    on the opposite side, and the stillness of death hung over the
+    burning plain.</p>
+
+    <p>There was not a sign of life in any direction. The second
+    gunbearer was instructed to set fire to the grass in the hope
+    of awakening some protest from the lion in case he was still in
+    the vicinity. There was a dry crackling of flames, and before
+    we could count ten a deep growl came from somewhere in front of
+    me, evidently on one of the edges of the creek bed. The second
+    gunbearer was the first to locate him, and he signaled for me
+    to come over on his side of the creek. In a moment I had dashed
+    down and had climbed out on the other side and was eagerly
+    gazing at a clump of bushes indicated by the Kikuyu. At first I
+    could distinguish nothing, but soon I saw the tawny flanks and
+    the lashing tail of the lion. His head was hidden by the
+    bushes. At that time we were about a hundred yards from him and
+    it was necessary to circle off to a point where the rest of his
+    body could be seen. A little side ravine intervened, and I had
+    to cross it and come directly down through the clump of bushes.
+    The grass was high, and it was not until I had come within
+    forty yards of the lion that I could get a clear view of him.
+    He was glaring at me, with tail waving angrily, and his mouth
+    was opened in a savage snarl. I could see that he didn't like
+    me.</p>
+
+    <p>I raised the little .256 Mannlicher, aimed carefully at his
+    open mouth and fired. The lion turned a back somersault and a
+    great thrill of exultation suffused me. Already I saw the
+    handsomely mounted lion-skin rug ornamenting my den at home. We
+    approached cautiously, always remembering that the real danger
+    of lion hunting comes after the lion has been shot. We threw
+    stones in the grass where he had lain, but no answering growl
+    was heard. I thought he was dead, but when we finally reached
+    the spot where he had been there was no sign of him. He had
+    vanished again. I searched the ravine and then crossed to the
+    high grass on the other side. Then we saw him for an instant,
+    half-concealed, just in front of us. His head was hanging, and
+    he looked as though he had been hard hit. Again he disappeared
+    and we searched high and low for him. For several hundred feet
+    we beat the grass without result.</p>
+
+    <p>Then the grass was again fired and again the hoarse growl
+    came in angry protest. Walking slowly, with guns ready for
+    instant use, we advanced until we could see him under a tree
+    seventy yards ahead on my side of the ravine. He was growling
+    angrily. This time I used the double-barreled cordite rifle and
+    the first shot struck him in the forehead without knocking him
+    down. He sprang up and the second shot stretched him out. He
+    was still alive when I came up to him, and a small bullet was
+    fired into the base of his brain to reduce the danger of a
+    final charge.</p>
+
+    <p>Old hunters always caution one about approaching a dying
+    lion, for often the beast musters up unexpected vitality, makes
+    a final charge, kills somebody, and then dies happy. So we
+    waited a few feet away until the last quiver of his sides had
+    passed. One of the boys pulled his tail and shook him, but
+    there was no sign of life. He was extinct.</p>
+
+    <p>A new danger now threatened. The grass fire that the second
+    gunbearer had started was sweeping the prairie, fanned by a
+    strong wind, and there seemed to be not only the danger of
+    abandoning the lion, but of being forced to flee before the
+    flames. So we fell to work beating out the nearest fires, and
+    trusted that a shifting of the wind would send the course of
+    the flames in another direction.</p>
+
+    <p>It was now four o'clock. We were nine miles from camp and
+    food, and we knew that at six o'clock darkness would suddenly
+    descend, leaving us out in a rhino-infested country, far from
+    camp. The water was nearly gone and the general outlook was far
+    from pleasing.</p>
+
+    <p>The gunbearers skinned the lion. My first shot had struck
+    one of his back teeth, breaking it squarely off, and then
+    passed through the fleshy part of the neck. It was a wound that
+    would startle, but not kill. The second shot had hit him
+    between the eyes, but had glanced off the skull, merely ripping
+    open the skin on the forehead for five inches. The third shell
+    had killed him, except for the convulsive heaving that was
+    finally stilled by the small bullet in the base of the
+    brain.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p096.png"><img src="images/p096s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: As I Planned to Look in the Photograph of &quot;My First Lion&quot;]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>As I Planned to Look in the Photograph of "My First
+      Lion"</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The skinning was interesting. All the fat in certain parts
+    of the body was saved, for East Indians bid high for it and use
+    it as a lubricant for rheumatic pains. The two shoulder blades
+    are always saved and are considered a valuable trophy. They are
+    little bones three inches long, unattached and floating, and
+    have long since ceased to perform any function in the working
+    of the body. The broken tooth was found and saved, and, of
+    course, a photograph was taken. My gunbearer took the picture,
+    and when it was developed there was only a part of the lion and
+    part of the lion slayer visible. It was a good picture of the
+    tree, however.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p097.png"><img src="images/p097s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: As I Looked&mdash;From Photograph by Gunbearer]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>As I Looked&mdash;From Photograph by Gunbearer</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At four-thirty the homeward march was begun. At five-thirty
+    two rhinos blocked the path and one of them had to be shot. At
+    six we were still several miles from camp, with the country
+    wrapped in darkness. The water was gone and only one shell
+    remained for the big gun. Somewhere ahead were miles of thorn
+    scrub in which there might be rhinos or buffaloes. Two days
+    before I had killed two large buffaloes in the district through
+    which we must pass, and there was every likelihood of others
+    still being there. At seven we were hopelessly lost in a wide
+    stretch of hippo grass, and I had to fire a shot in the hope of
+    getting an answering shot from camp. In a couple of moments we
+    heard the distant shot, and then pressed on toward camp. The
+    lion had been carried on ahead while we stopped with the rhino,
+    and so the news reached the camp before us. A long line of
+    porters came out to greet us and a great reception committee
+    was waiting at the camp. It was the first lion of the
+    expedition, and as such was the signal for great celebration.
+    That night there were native dances and songs around the big
+    central camp-fire and a wonderful display of pagan
+    hilarity.</p>
+
+    <p>It had been a hard day. Fourteen hours without food, several
+    hours without water, and miles of hard tramping through thorn
+    scrub in the darkness and of long, broiling stretches in the
+    blazing sunlight. It seemed a good price to pay even for a
+    lion, but that night, as I finally stretched out on my cot, I
+    was conscious from time to time of a glow of pleasure that
+    swept over me. It seemed that of all human gratifications there
+    was none equal to that experienced by the man who has killed
+    his first lion.</p>
+
+    <p>My second lion experience came three days later. With a
+    couple of tents and about forty porters our party of four had
+    marched across to a point a couple of miles from where I had
+    killed the lion. We hoped to put in a day or two looking for
+    lions, some of which had been reported in that district. The
+    porters went on ahead with the camp equipment, while we came
+    along more slowly. Mr. Akeley had taken some close-range
+    photographs of rhinos, and we were just on the point of
+    starting direct for the new camp when we ran across two
+    enormous rhinos standing in the open plain. One was extremely
+    large, with an excellent pair of horns, and it was arranged
+    that I should try to secure this one as a trophy, while Mr.
+    Akeley secured a photograph of the event. At thirty-five yards
+    I shot the larger one of the two, and it dropped in its tracks.
+    The other started to charge, but was finally driven away by
+    shouting and by shots fired in the air. The photograph was
+    excellent and quite dramatic.</p>
+
+    <p>For an hour the gunbearers worked on the dead rhino and
+    finally secured the head and feet and certain desirable parts
+    of the skin. At noon we resumed our march for camp, two or
+    three miles away. We had hardly gone half the distance when one
+    of the tent boys was seen far ahead, riding the one mule that
+    we had dared to bring down the Tana River. It was evident that
+    something important had occurred and we hurried on to meet
+    him.</p>
+
+    <p>"<em>Simba!</em>" he shouted, as soon as he could be heard.
+    In a moment we had the details. One of the saises had seen two
+    lions, a large male and female, quite near the camp. Porters
+    were instructed to watch the beasts until we should arrive, and
+    now were supposed to be in touch with them. We omitted luncheon
+    and struck off at once in the direction indicated by the tent
+    boy. We soon came up to the porters and an instant later saw
+    the lions. It was a beautiful sight. The two animals were
+    majestically walking up the rocky slope of a low, fire-scorched
+    hill a few hundred yards away. The male was a splendid beast,
+    with all the splendid dignity of one who fears nothing in the
+    whole wide world. From time to time the two lions stopped and
+    looked back at us, but with no sign of fear. Several times they
+    lay down, but soon would resume their stately course up among
+    the rocks.</p>
+
+    <p>I shall never forget the picture that lay before me. It was
+    as though some famous lion painting of G&eacute;r&ocirc;me or
+    Landseer had come to life, sometimes the animals being outlined
+    clearly against the blue sky and at other times standing, with
+    splendid heads erect, upon the rocks of the low ridge that rose
+    ahead of us.</p>
+
+    <p>We stalked them easily. Several porters were left where the
+    lions could constantly see them, while we three, Akeley,
+    Stephenson and I, with our six gunbearers, worked around the
+    base of the hill until we were able to climb up on the crest of
+    it, being thus constantly screened from view of the lions. At
+    the crest was an abrupt outcropping of blackened rocks, where
+    we stopped to locate the two animals. They were nowhere to be
+    seen. Twenty-five yards farther along on the crest was another
+    little ledge of rocks, and we worked our way silently along to
+    it in the expectation that the lions might have advanced that
+    far. But even then our search disclosed nothing. For some time
+    we waited, scouring the neighborhood with our glasses, and had
+    almost reached the conclusion that the lions had made off down
+    the other side of the hill and had reached the cover of a
+    shallow ravine some distance away. Then we saw them&mdash;exactly
+    where we had last seen them before we had started our stalk.
+    They were still together and showed no sign of alarm nor
+    knowledge of our presence so near them. At this time they were
+    one hundred and ten yards away. They lay down again behind the
+    rocks and we waited twenty minutes for them to show themselves.
+    Off to our right and in the valley another large male lion
+    appeared and moved slowly away among the low scrub trees.</p>
+
+    <p>Finally we decided to rouse the two lions by shouting, but
+    before this decision could be carried out the male rose above
+    the rocks and stood plainly in view. It had previously been
+    arranged that Mr. Stephenson should try for the male, while I
+    should try for the female. In an instant he fired with his big
+    rifle, the lion whirled around and then started running down
+    the hill to the right.</p>
+
+    <p>Then the lioness appeared and I wounded her with my first
+    shot. She ran out in the open toward us, but evidently without
+    knowing from where the firing came. A second shot was better
+    placed and I saw her collapse in her tracks. Leaving the
+    lioness, I went down to where Stephenson had followed the lion.
+    Several shots had been fired, but the lion was still running,
+    although badly wounded. Just as it reached a small tree down on
+    the slope a shot was put into a vital spot, and the lion went
+    wildly over on his side. Even then he managed to drag himself
+    under the small bushes surrounding the tree, where a moment
+    later Mr. Stephenson killed him with a shot from his .318
+    Mauser.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p102.png"><img src="images/p102s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: &quot;A Very Interesting Experience,&quot; Said I Coolly, a Couple of Days Later]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>"A Very Interesting Experience," Said I Coolly, a
+      Couple of Days Later</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We measured and photographed the lion, and then I took my
+    camera to get a picture of the dead lioness up on the ridge.
+    She was sitting up snarling, and I was the most surprised
+    person in the world. I shot at her and she ran fifty yards to a
+    small tree, where she came to a stop. Two more shots from my
+    big gun finished her, and the photograph was finally
+    secured.</p>
+
+    <p>Leaving the porters to watch the two lions, we followed the
+    third lion that had been seen in the valley. He had not gone
+    far and we soon found him, but too far away to get a shot. For
+    an hour we followed him, but he finally disappeared and could
+    not be located again.</p>
+
+    <p>It was sundown when our porters reached camp with the two
+    lions, and it was then that we ate our long-deferred
+    luncheon.</p>
+
+    <p>A week later, while marching from the Tana River to the Zeka
+    River, Mr. and Mrs. Akeley and I came across a large lion,
+    accompanied by a lioness. They were first seen moving away
+    across a low sloping ridge of the plains within a couple of
+    miles of where we had killed the lion and lioness a week
+    before. We followed them and came up with them after a brisk
+    walk of ten minutes. Both were hiding in the grass near the
+    crest of the slope, and we could see their ears and eyes above
+    the long grass. We crouched down a hundred yards away and the
+    lion rose to see where we had gone. Mrs. Akeley fired and
+    missed, but her second shot pierced his brain and he fell like
+    a log. We expected a charge from the lioness and waited until
+    she should declare herself. But she did not appear and her
+    whereabouts remained an anxious mystery until she was finally
+    seen several hundred yards away making her way slowly up a
+    distant hill. Half-way up she sat down and watched us as we
+    made our way cautiously in the grass to where her mate lay as
+    he fell, stone dead. We afterward followed her, but she escaped
+    from view and could not be located. This lion was the largest
+    we had seen and measured nine feet from tip to tip.</p>
+
+    <p>This was our last experience with lions in the Trans-Tana
+    country. After that we went up in the elephant country on Mount
+    Kenia, but that is a story all in itself.</p>
+
+    <p>Lion hunting is the best kind of African hunting in one
+    respect. One feels no self-reproach in having killed a lion,
+    for there is always the comforting thought that by killing one
+    lion you have saved the lives of three hundred other animals.
+    Every lion exacts an annual toll of at least that number of
+    zebras, hartebeests, or other forms of antelopes, all of which
+    are powerless to defend themselves against the great creature
+    that creeps upon them in cover of darkness. So a lion hunter
+    may consider himself something of a benefactor.</p>
+  </div><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+    <h3>ON THE TANA RIVER, THE HOME OF THE RHINO. THE TIMID ARE
+    FRIGHTENED, THE DANGEROUS KILLED, AND OTHERS PHOTOGRAPHED.
+    MOVING PICTURES OF A RHINO CHARGE</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Down</span> on the Tana River the rhinos
+    are more common than in any other known section of Africa. In
+    two weeks we saw over one hundred&mdash;perhaps two hundred&mdash;of
+    them&mdash;so many, in fact, that one of the chief diversions of the
+    day was to count rhinos. One day we counted twenty-six, another
+    day nineteen, and by the time we left the district rhinos had
+    become such fixtures in the landscape as to cause only casual
+    comment. Perhaps there were some repeaters, ones that were
+    counted twice, but even allowing for that there were still some
+    left. We saw big ones and little ones, old ones and young ones,
+    and middle-aged ones; ones with long ears, short horns, double
+    horns, and single horns; black ones and red ones&mdash;in fact, all
+    the kinds of rhinos that are resident in British East Africa.
+    One had an ear gone and another had a crook in his tail. If we
+    had stayed another week we might have got out a Tana River
+    Rhino Directory, with addresses and tree numbers. We studied
+    them fore and aft, from in front of trees and from behind them,
+    from close range and long range, over our shoulders, and
+    through our cameras, every way whereby a conscientious lover of
+    life and nature can study a prominent member of the Mammalia.
+    We called the place Rhino Park because the country looks like a
+    beautiful park studded with splendid trees and dotted with
+    rhinos.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p106.png"><img src="images/p106s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: A Morning Walk on the Tana River]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>A Morning Walk on the Tana River</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>When I went to Africa I was equipped with the following fund
+    of knowledge concerning the rhinoceros: First, that he is
+    familiarly called "rhino" by the daring hunters who have
+    written about him; second, that he is a member of the
+    Perissodactyl family, whose sole representatives are the horse,
+    the rhino, and the tapir; third, that he savagely charges human
+    beings who write books about their thrilling adventures in
+    Africa, and, finally, that he looks like a hang-over from the
+    pterodactyl age. The books and magazine stories that have come
+    out since Mr. Roosevelt made African hunting the vogue
+    invariably describe the rhino as being one of the most
+    dangerous of African animals. A charging rhino, a wounded lion,
+    a cape buffalo, and a frenzied elephant are the four terrors of
+    the African hunters. All other forms of danger are slight
+    compared with these, and I was full to the guards with a vast
+    and fearful respect for the rhino. I fancied myself spinning
+    around like a pinwheel with the horn of a rhino as a pivot, and
+    the thought had little to commend itself to a lover of
+    longevity&mdash;such as myself, for instance.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0683.jpg"><img src="images/img0683s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Comfortable Hammock of Zebra Skin]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Comfortable Hammock of Zebra Skin</p><a href=
+      "images/img0587.jpg"><img src="images/img0587s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Mrs. Akeley and Her Tana River Monkey]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Mrs. Akeley and Her Tana River Monkey</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After going to Africa and meeting some of the best members
+    of the rhino set I was able to form some conclusions of my own,
+    chief of which is the belief that he is dangerous only if he
+    hits you. As long as you can keep out of his reach you are in
+    no great danger except from the thorns.</p>
+
+    <p>The prevailing estimate of the rhino is that he is an
+    inoffensive creature who likes to bask under the shade of a
+    tree and watch the years go parading by. His thick skin and
+    fierce armament of horns seem to make of him a relic of some
+    long-forgotten age&mdash;the last survivor of the time when mammoths
+    and dinosauruses roamed the manless waste and time was counted
+    in geological terms instead of days and minutes. His eyes are
+    dimmed and he sees nothing beyond a few yards away, but his
+    hearing and sense of smell are keen, and he sniffs danger from
+    afar in case danger happens to be to windward of him. His
+    sensitive nose is always alert for foreign and, therefore,
+    suspicious odors, and when he smells the blood of an
+    Englishman, or even an American, his tail goes up in anger, he
+    sniffs and snorts and races around in a circle while he locates
+    the direction where the danger lies&mdash;and then, look out. A
+    blind, furious rush which only a well-sped bullet can prevent
+    causing the untimely end of whatever happens to be in the way.
+    That is the popular estimate of the rhino.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p108.png"><img src="images/p108s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Popular Conception of Rhino]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Popular Conception of Rhino</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Here are some of the conclusions I have formed: If the
+    hunter carefully approaches the rhino from the leeward he may
+    often come within a few yards of the animal and might easily
+    shoot him in a leisurely way. The rhino can see only at close
+    range and can smell only when the wind blows the scent to him.
+    Consequently he would be defenseless and at the mercy of the
+    hunter if it were not for one thing. Nature, in her wisdom, has
+    sent the little rhino bird to act as a sentinel for the great
+    pachyderm. These little birds live on the back of the rhino
+    and, as recompense for their vigilance, are permitted to
+    partake of such ticks and insects as inhabit the hide of their
+    host. Whenever danger, or, in other words, whenever a hunter
+    tries to approach their own particular rhino from any
+    direction, windward, leeward, or any other way, the ever alert
+    and watchful rhino birds sound a tocsin of warning. The rhino
+    pricks up his ears and begins to show signs of taking notice.
+    He doesn't know where or what the danger may be, but he knows
+    the C.Q.D. code of danger signals as delivered to him from the
+    outposts on his back and hastens to get busy in an effort to
+    locate the foe. As a general thing the little birds, on sight
+    of danger, begin a wild chatter, rising from the back of the
+    rhino and flying in an opposite direction from the danger. Then
+    they return, light on the rhino's back, and repeat, often
+    several times, the operation of flying away from the danger. If
+    the rhino is a wise rhino he learns from the birds which is the
+    safe way to go and soon trots swiftly off. In a measure the
+    habits of the rhino bird are as interesting as those of the
+    rhino itself, and as an example of the weak protecting the
+    strong, the Damon and Pythias relationship between bird and
+    beast is without parallel in the animal kingdom.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p109.png"><img src="images/p109s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Before and After the Rhino Birds Give the Alarm]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Before and After the Rhino Birds Give the
+      Alarm</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The rhino is a peaceful animal. He browses on herbs and
+    shrubs and dwells in friendly relationship with the rest of the
+    animal kingdom. Perhaps once or twice a day he ambles down to
+    some favorite drinking place for a drink, but the rest of the
+    time he grazes along a hillside or stands or lies sleepily
+    under a tree. At such times as the latter he may be approached
+    quite near without much danger. Each day he also goes to a
+    favorite wallowing place, where he rolls in the red dirt and
+    emerges from this dirt bath a dull red rhino. In the rhino
+    country dozens of these red dirt rolling places may be found,
+    each one trampled smooth for an area of fifteen or twenty feet
+    in evidence of the great number of times it has been used by
+    one or more rhinos. This dirt bath is a defensive measure
+    against the hordes of ticks that infest the rhino. It is a
+    subject for wonder that the six or eight tick birds do not keep
+    the rhino free of ticks, and it has even been argued by some
+    naturalists that the rhino bird does not eat ticks, but merely
+    uses the rhino as a convenient resting-place. Also perhaps they
+    enjoy the ride. We had planned to get a rhino bird and perform
+    an autopsy on him in order to analyze his contents, but did not
+    do so.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0685.jpg"><img src="images/img0685s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: The Ford of Tana River]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Ford of Tana River</p><a href=
+      "images/img0589.jpg"><img src="images/img0589s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Baby Rhino]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Baby Rhino</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After the rhino has taken his dirt wallow, and looks fine in
+    his new red coat, he then slowly and painstakingly proceeds to
+    kill time during the rest of the day. If danger threatens he
+    becomes exceedingly nervous and excited. His anxiety is quite
+    acute. In vain he tries to locate the danger, rushing one way
+    for a few yards, then the other way, and finally all ways at
+    once. His tail is up and he is snorting like a steam engine.
+    When he rushes toward you in this attitude it looks very much
+    as though he were charging you with the purpose of trampling
+    you to flinders. As a matter of fact, or, rather, opinion, he
+    is merely trying to locate where you are in order that he may
+    run the other way. He looks terrifying, but in reality is
+    probably badly terrified himself. He would give a good deal to
+    know which way to run, and finally becomes so excited and
+    nervous that he starts frantically in some direction, hoping
+    for the best. If this rush happens to be in your direction you
+    call it a charge from an infuriated rhino; if not, you say that
+    he looked nasty and was about to charge, but finally ran away
+    in another direction. In most rhino charges it is my opinion
+    that the rhino is too rattled to know what he is doing, and,
+    instead of charging maliciously, he is merely trying to get
+    away as fast as possible. And in such cases the hunter blazes
+    away at him, wounds him, and the rhino blindly charges the
+    flash.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p112.png"><img src="images/p112s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Trying to Provoke a Charge]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Trying to Provoke a Charge</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It was our wish to get moving pictures of a rhino charge.
+    Mr. Akeley had a machine and our plan of action was simple. We
+    would first locate the rhino, usually somnolent under a thorn
+    tree or browsing soberly out in the open. We would then get to
+    the leeward of him and slowly advance the machine; Mr. Akeley
+    in the middle and Stephenson and I on each side with our
+    double-barreled cordite rifles. In case the charge became too
+    serious to escape we hoped to be able to turn him or kill the
+    rhino with our four bullets. If we were unsuccessful in doing
+    so&mdash;well, we had to manage the situation by jumping.</p>
+
+    <p>Our first experience was most thrilling, chiefly because we
+    expected a charge. We thought all rhinos charged, as per the
+    magazine articles, and so prepared for busy doings. A rhino cow
+    and half-grown calf were discovered on a distant hillside. We
+    stopped in a ravine to adjust the picture machine and then
+    crept cautiously up the hill until we were within about seventy
+    yards of the unsuspecting pair. Then the rhino birds began to
+    flutter and chatter and the two beasts began to sniff
+    nervously. Finally they turned toward us, with tails erect and
+    noses sniffing savagely. Now for the charge, we thought, for it
+    was considered an absolute certainty that a rhino cow
+    accompanied by its calf would always attack. We moved forward a
+    few yards, clapped our hands to show where we were, and their
+    attitude at once became more threatening. They rushed backward
+    and forward a couple of times and faced us again.</p>
+
+    <p>By this time we knew that they saw us and our fingers were
+    within the trigger guards. It was agreed that, if they charged,
+    they should be allowed to come within forty feet before we
+    fired, thus giving the picture machine time to get a good
+    record. The situation was intense beyond description, and
+    seconds seemed hours. When they started trotting toward us we
+    thought the fatal moment had come, but instead of continuing
+    the "charge," they swung around and trotted swiftly off in an
+    opposite direction. As far as we could see them they trotted
+    swiftly and with the lightness of deer, sometimes zigzagging
+    their course, but always away from us. The charge had failed in
+    spite of all our efforts to provoke it. The whistling and
+    hand-clapping which we had hoped would give them our location
+    without doubt had merely served to tell them the way not to
+    go.</p>
+
+    <p>The moving picture record of a "charging rhino" would have
+    been a brilliant success but for one thing&mdash;the rhino refused
+    to charge.</p>
+
+    <p>During the following ten days we made many similar attempts
+    to get a charge and always with nearly the same results. Once
+    or twice we got within thirty yards before they finally turned
+    tail after a number of feints that looked much like the
+    beginning of a nasty charge. It was always intensely thrilling
+    work because there was the likelihood that we might get a
+    charge in spite of the fact that a dozen or so previous
+    experiences had failed to precipitate one.</p>
+
+    <p>In several cases the first rush of the rhino was toward us,
+    but instead of continuing, he would soon swing about and make
+    off, four times as badly scared as we were. It seemed as though
+    these preliminary rushes toward us were efforts to verify the
+    location of danger in order to determine the right direction
+    for escape. In all, we made between fifteen and twenty
+    different attempts on different rhinos to get a charge, but
+    with always practically the same result, yet with always the
+    same thrill of excitement and uncertainty.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p115.png"><img src="images/p115s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The End of the Charge]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The End of the Charge</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Comprehensive statistics on a rhino's charges are hard to
+    obtain. The district commissioner at Embo told me that he had
+    been ordered to reduce the number of rhinos in his district in
+    the interest of public safety and that he had killed
+    thirty-five in all. Out of this number five charged him. That
+    would indicate that one rhino in seven will charge. Captain
+    Dickinson, in his book, <em>Big Game Shooting on the
+    Equator</em>, tells of a rhino that charged him so viciously
+    that he threw down his bedding roll and the rhino tossed it and
+    trampled it with great emphasis, after which it triumphantly
+    trotted away, elated probably in the thought that it had wiped
+    out its enemy. A number of fatalities are on record to prove
+    that the rhino is a dangerous beast at times, and so I must
+    conclude that the rhino experiences we had were exceedingly
+    lucky ones, and perhaps exceptional ones in that respect.</p>
+
+    <p>In only one instance was it necessary for us to kill a rhino
+    and even then it was done more in the interest of photography
+    than of urgent necessity. On our game licenses we were each
+    allowed to kill two rhinos, and as I wanted, one of the Tana
+    River variety it was arranged that I should try to get the
+    first big one with good horns. After a hunt of several hours we
+    found two of them together out on the slope of a long hill. Our
+    glasses showed that one of them was quite large and equipped
+    with a splendid front horn nearly two feet long and a rear horn
+    about a foot long. At the lower slope of the hill were two or
+    three trees that screened our approach so that we were easily
+    enabled to get within about one hundred and fifty yards of them
+    without danger of discovery. From the trees onward the country
+    was an open prairie for two or three miles.</p>
+
+    <p>Armed with a double-barreled cordite rifle and the
+    comforting reflection that the chances were seven to one that
+    the rhinos would not charge, I slowly advanced alone toward the
+    two rhinos. Behind me about fifty yards was the long range
+    camera and a second gun manned by Mr. Stephenson. When fifty
+    yards from the rhinos I stopped, but as no offensive tactics
+    were apparent in the camp of the enemy, I slowly walked forward
+    to thirty-five yards. Then they saw me. They faced me with what
+    seemed like an attitude of decided unfriendliness. Their tails
+    were up and they were snorting like steam engines. When the big
+    one started toward me I fired and it fell like a log. The other
+    one, instead of thundering away, according to expectations,
+    became more belligerent. It ran a few steps, then swung around,
+    and I felt certain that it was going to avenge the death of its
+    comrade. The camera brigade rushed forward, clapping their
+    hands to scare it away, as there was no desire to kill both of
+    the animals. But it refused to go. It would sometimes run a few
+    steps, then it would turn and come toward us. It was evidently
+    in a fighting mood, with no intention of deserting the field of
+    action. Finally by firing shots in the air and yelling noisily
+    it turned and dashed over the side of the hill. The photograph,
+    taken at the instant the big rhino was struck, was remarkably
+    dramatic and showed one rhino in an aggressive attitude and the
+    other just plunging down from the shot of the big bullet.</p>
+
+    <p>The front horn of the dead rhino was twenty and
+    three-quarters inches long and in many places the animal's hide
+    was over an inch thick. Strips of this were cut off to make
+    whips, and a large section was removed to be made into a table
+    top. These table tops, polished and rendered translucent by the
+    curing processes, are beautiful as well as extremely
+    interesting. The rhino's tongue is even more delicious to eat
+    than ox tongue and rhino tail soup is a great luxury on any
+    white man's table; while the native porters consider rhino meat
+    the finest of any meat to be had in Africa. The conscience of
+    one who slays a rhino is somewhat appeased by the fact that a
+    hundred native porters will have a good square meal of
+    wholesome meat to help build up their systems.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p118.png"><img src="images/p118s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: A Real Rhino Charge]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>A Real Rhino Charge</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our expedition sustained only one real rhino charge. One day
+    Mr. Stephenson stumbled on a big cow rhino that was lying in
+    the grass. The meeting was as unexpected to him as to her, and
+    before he could count five she was rushing headlong toward him.
+    He clapped his hands, whistled, and shouted to turn her course,
+    but she came on, snorting loudly and with head ready to impale
+    everything in its way. Stephenson did not want to kill her,
+    neither did he desire to be killed, so when all other means had
+    failed he fired a soft nose bullet into her shoulder in the
+    hope that it would turn her away without seriously hurting her.
+    The bullet seemed to have no effect and she did not change her
+    course in the slightest degree. By this time she was within a
+    short distance of Stephenson, who was obliged to run a few feet
+    and take refuge behind a tree.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0687.jpg"><img src="images/img0687s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Sultan Looked Like an American Indian]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Sultan Looked Like an American Indian</p><a href=
+      "images/img0591a.jpg"><img src="images/img0591as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: In the Thorn Brush on the Tana]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>In the Thorn Brush on the Tana</p><a href=
+      "images/img0591b.jpg"><img src="images/img0591bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Dummy Rhino]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Dummy Rhino</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The gunbearers and porters, who had fled in all directions,
+    thought that Stephenson was caught, but the rhino, passing him
+    with only a small margin of five feet, continued thunderously
+    on her way. In a few yards she slowed down, and when last seen
+    was walking. She had evidently been hit very hard by the soft
+    nose bullet and was already showing signs of sickness. Suddenly
+    a terrific squealing made the party aware that the cow rhino
+    had been accompanied by a little rhino calf. The calf, only a
+    couple of weeks old, charged savagely at every one in sight and
+    every one in sight took refuge behind trees and bushes. Instead
+    of trying to escape, the animal turned and continued to attack
+    in all directions whenever a man showed himself. When a man
+    leaped behind a tree the calf would charge the tree with such
+    force that it would be hurled back several feet, only to spring
+    up and charge again. His squealing could be heard for a mile.
+    After a long time the porters succeeded in capturing it and
+    they conveyed it back to camp strung on a pole. If that little
+    rhino was any criterion of rhino pugnacity, then surely the
+    rhino is born with the instinctive impulse to charge and to
+    fight as savagely as any animal alive.</p>
+
+    <p>We fed our little pet rhino on milk and then swung it in a
+    comfortable hammock made of zebra skin. In this more or less
+    undignified fashion it was carried by eight strong porters to
+    Fort Hall, two marches away, where it lived only a week or ten
+    days and then, to our sorrow and regret, succumbed from lack of
+    proper nourishment.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p120.png"><img src="images/p120s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Retiring in Favor of Rhino]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Retiring in Favor of Rhino</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Sometimes, when the <em>safari</em> is marching through bush
+    country, the rhino becomes an element of considerable anxiety;
+    An armed party must precede the caravan and clear the route of
+    rhinos, otherwise the porters are likely to be scattered by
+    threatened charges. It is no uncommon sight to see a crowd of
+    heavily laden porters drop their loads and shin up the nearest
+    tree in record time. Consequently, strong protective measures
+    are always demanded when a long train of unarmed natives is
+    moving through bush or scrub country where there are many
+    rhinos.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p121.png"><img src="images/p121s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Favorite Way of Being Photographed]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Favorite Way of Being Photographed</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The lower Tana River country is admirably adapted to the
+    life habits of the rhinos. Formerly the district was well
+    settled by natives, but now, owing to the fever conditions
+    prevailing there, the natives have all moved away to more
+    wholesome places and only the forlorn remains of deserted
+    villages mark where former prosperity reigned. The country has
+    been abandoned to game, with the result that it has been
+    enormously increasing during the last few years. In addition to
+    the great numbers of rhinos there are big herds of buffalo,
+    enormous numbers of hippo in the river, and many small droves
+    of eland. Waterbuck, bushbuck, steinbuck, impalla, hartebeest
+    and zebra dwell in comparative immunity from danger and may be
+    seen in hundreds, grazing on the hills or in the woods that
+    fringe the river. It is a sportsman's paradise, if he manages
+    to escape the fever, and we enjoyed it tremendously, even
+    though we shot only a hundredth part of what we might easily
+    have shot. The charm of hunting in such a region lies in what
+    one sees rather than in what one kills.</p>
+  </div><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+
+    <h3>MEETING COLONEL ROOSEVELT IN THE UTTERMOST OUTPOST OF
+    SEMI-CIVILIZATION. HE TALKS OF MANY THINGS, HEARS THAT HE HAS
+    BEEN REPORTED DEAD, AND PROMPTLY PLANS AN ELEPHANT HUNT</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">After</span> one has been in British East
+    Africa two months he begins to readjust his preconceived ideas
+    to fit real conditions. He discovers that nothing is really as
+    bad as he feared it would be, and that distance, as usual, has
+    magnified the terrors of a far-away land. In spite of the fact
+    that he is in the heart of a primitive country, surrounded by
+    native tribes that still are mystified by a glass mirror, and
+    perhaps many days' march from the nearest white person, he
+    still may feel that he is in touch with the great world
+    outside. His mail reaches him somehow or other, even if he is
+    in the center of some vast unsettled district devoid of roads
+    or trails.</p>
+
+    <p>How it is done is a mystery; but the fact remains that every
+    once in a while a black man appears as by magic and hands one a
+    package containing letters and telegrams. He is a native
+    "runner," whose business it is to find you wherever you may be,
+    and he does it, no matter how long it may take him. A telegram
+    addressed to any sportsman in East Africa would reach him if
+    only addressed with his name and the words "British East
+    Africa." There are only four or five thousand white residents
+    in the whole protectorate, and the names of these are duly
+    catalogued and known to the post-office officials both in
+    Mombasa and Nairobi.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p124.png"><img src="images/p124s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: In the Forest]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>In the Forest</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>If a strange name appears on a letter or despatch, inquiries
+    are made and the identity of the stranger is quickly
+    established. If he is a sportsman, the outfitters in Nairobi
+    will know who he is. They will have equipped him with porters
+    and the other essentials of a caravan, and they will know
+    exactly in which section of the protectorate he is hunting. So
+    the letter is readdressed in care of the <em>boma</em> or
+    government station, nearest to that section. The letter duly
+    arrives at the <em>boma</em>, and a native runner is told to go
+    out and deliver the message. He starts off, and by inquiry of
+    other natives and by relying on a natural instinct that is
+    little short of marvelous he ultimately finds the object of his
+    search and delivers his message.</p>
+
+    <p>If you look at a map of British East Africa you will be
+    amazed at the number of names that are marked upon it. You
+    would quite naturally think that the country was rather thickly
+    settled, whereas in fact there are very few places of
+    settlement away from the single line of railroad that runs from
+    Mombasa to Victoria Nyanza. The protectorate is divided into
+    subdistricts, each one of which has a capital, or
+    <em>boma</em>, as it is called. This <em>boma</em> usually
+    consists of a white man's residence, a little post-office, one
+    or two Indian stores where all the necessities of a simple life
+    may be procured, and a number of native grass huts. There is
+    usually a small detachment of askaris, or native soldiers, who
+    are necessary to enforce the law, repress any native uprising,
+    and collect the hut tax of one dollar a year that is imposed
+    upon each household in the district.</p>
+
+    <p>Other names on the map may look important, but will prove to
+    be only streams, or hills, or some landmarks that have been
+    used by the surveyors to signify certain places. In our five
+    weeks' trip through Trans-Tanaland we found only two
+    <em>bomas</em>, Fort Hall and Embo, and three or four ranches
+    where one or more white men lived. In our expedition to Mount
+    Elgon we encountered only two places where the mark of
+    civilization showed&mdash;Eldoma Ravine and Sergoi. In the former
+    place the only white man was the subcommissioner, and in the
+    latter there was one policeman, and a general store kept by a
+    South African. A number of Boer settlers are scattered over the
+    plateau, trying to reclaim little sections of land from its
+    primitive state.</p>
+
+    <p>Between Sergoi and Londiani, on the railroad, ninety miles
+    south, there is one little store where caravans may buy food
+    for porters and some of the simpler necessities that white men
+    may require. All the rest of the country for thousands of
+    square miles is given up to the lion and zebra and the vast
+    herds of antelope that feed upon the rich grass of the
+    plateau.</p>
+
+    <p>Yet in spite of the sparsity of settlement the native runner
+    manages to find you, even after days of traveling, without
+    compass or directions to aid him.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0689.jpg"><img src="images/img0689s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. An Askari Who Looked Like a Tragedian]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>An Askari Who Looked Like a Tragedian</p><a href=
+      "images/img0593.jpg"><img src="images/img0593s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mr. Akeley]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Mr. Akeley</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Hunters who come to East Africa usually are sent to certain
+    districts where game is known to be abundant. These districts
+    are well defined and oftentimes there may be a number of
+    <em>safaris</em> in them at the same time, but so large are the
+    districts that one group of hunters very rarely encroaches upon
+    the others.</p>
+
+    <p>Some parties are sent to Mount Kilima-Njaro, in the vicinity
+    of which there is good hunting. Others are sent out from points
+    along the railroad for certain classes of game that may be
+    found only in those spots. Simba, on the railroad, is a
+    favorite place for those who are after the yellow-maned or
+    "plains" lion. Muhorini, also on the railroad, is a favorite
+    place for those who want the roan antelope; Naivasha is a good
+    place for hippo, and south of Kijabe, in what is called the
+    Sotik, is a district where nearly all sorts of game abound. The
+    Tana River is a favorite place for rhino, buffalo, nearly all
+    sorts of antelope, and some lion; Mount Kenia is an elephant
+    hunting ground, and the Aberdare Range, between Kenia and
+    Naivasha, also is good for elephant. North of Kenia is the Guas
+    Nyiro River, a rich district for game of many kinds. And so the
+    country is divided up into sections that are sure to attract
+    many sporting parties who desire certain kinds of game.</p>
+
+    <p>Our first expedition out from Nairobi was across the Athi
+    Plains to the Tana River and Mount Kenia, a wonderful trip for
+    those who are willing to take chances with the fever down the
+    Tana River. In five weeks we saw lion, rhino, buffalo, and
+    elephant&mdash;the four groups of animals that are called "royal
+    game"; also hippo, giraffe, eland, wildebeest, and many
+    varieties of smaller game. It is doubtful whether there is any
+    other section of East Africa where one could have a chance for
+    so many different species of game in such a short time as the
+    Tana River country.</p>
+
+    <p>For our second expedition we selected the Guas Ngishu
+    Plateau, the Nzoia River, and Mount Elgon. It is a long trip
+    which involves elaborate preparation and some difficulty in
+    keeping up supplies for the camp and the porters. It is the
+    most promising place, however, for black-maned lion and
+    elephant, and on account of these two capital prizes in the
+    lottery of big game hunting occasional parties are willing to
+    venture the time and expense necessary to reach this
+    district.</p>
+
+    <p>We disembarked, or "detrained," as they say down there, at a
+    little station on the railroad called Londiani, eight miles
+    south of the equator and about eighty miles from Victoria
+    Nyanza. Then with two transport wagons drawn by thirty oxen,
+    our horses for "galloping" lions, and one hundred porters, we
+    marched north, always at an altitude of from seventy-five
+    hundred to ninety-two hundred feet, through vast forests that
+    stretched for miles on all sides. The country was beautiful
+    beyond words&mdash;clean, wholesome, and vast. In many places the
+    scenery was as trim, and apparently as finished as sections of
+    the wooded hills and meadows of Surrey. One might easily
+    imagine oneself in a great private estate where landscape
+    gardeners had worked for years.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p129.png"><img src="images/p129s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: One of the Transport Wagons]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>One of the Transport Wagons</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At night the cold was keen and four blankets were necessary
+    the night we camped two miles from the equator. In the day the
+    sun was hot in the midday hours, but never unpleasantly so.
+    After two days of marching through forests and across great
+    grassy folds in the earth we reached Eldoma Ravine, a
+    subcommissioner's <em>boma</em> that looks for all the world
+    like a mountain health resort. From the hill upon which the
+    station is situated one may look across the Great Rift Valley,
+    two thousand feet below, and stretching away for miles across,
+    like a Grand Ca&ntilde;on of Arizona without any mountains in
+    it. Strong stone walls protect the white residence, for this is
+    a section of the country that has suffered much from native
+    uprisings during the last few years. We called on the solitary
+    white resident one evening, and, true to the creed of the
+    Briton, he had dressed for dinner. The sight of a man in a
+    dinner-coat miles from a white man and leagues from a white
+    woman was something to remember and marvel at.</p>
+
+    <p>Northward from Eldoma Ravine for days we marched, sometimes
+    in dense forests so thick that a man could scarcely force
+    himself through the undergrowth that flanked the trail, and
+    sometimes through upland meadows so deep in tall yellow grass
+    as to suggest a field of waving grain, then through miles of
+    country studded with the gnarled thorn tree that looks so much
+    like our apple trees at home. It was as though we were
+    traversing an endless orchard, clean, beautiful, and
+    exhilarating in the cool winds of the African highlands. And
+    then, all suddenly, we came to the end of the trees, and before
+    us, like a great, heaving yellow sea, lay the Guas Ngishu
+    Plateau that stretches northward one hundred miles and always
+    above seven thousand feet in altitude.</p>
+
+    <p>Far ahead, like a little knob of blue, was Sergoi Hill,
+    forty miles away, and beyond, in a fainter blue, were the hills
+    that mark the limit of white man's passport. On the map that
+    district is marked: "Natives probably treacherous." Off to the
+    left, a hundred miles away, the dim outline of Mount Elgon rose
+    in easy slopes from the horizon. Elgon, with its elephants, was
+    our goal, and in between were the black-maned lions that we
+    hoped to meet.</p>
+
+    <p>It would be hard to exaggerate the charm of this climate.
+    And yet this, one thought, was equatorial Africa, which, in the
+    popular imagination, is supposed to be synonymous with
+    torrential rains, malignant fevers, and dense jungles of matted
+    vegetation. It was more like the friendly stretches of Colorado
+    scenery at the time of year when the grasses of the valley are
+    dotted with flowers of many colors and the sun shines down upon
+    you with genial warmth.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p131.png"><img src="images/p131s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: A Night on the Equator]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>A Night on the Equator</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Each morning we marched ten or twelve miles and then went
+    into camp near some little stream. In the afternoon we hunted
+    for lions, beating out swamps, scouting every bit of cover and
+    combing the tall grass for hours at a time. Hartebeest, topi,
+    zebra, eland, oribi, reedbuck, and small grass antelope were
+    upon all sides and at all times.</p>
+
+    <p>The herds of zebra and hartebeest literally numbered
+    thousands, but, except as the latter were occasionally required
+    for food for the porters, we seldom tried to shoot them. Every
+    Boer settler we saw was interviewed and every promising lion
+    clue was followed to the bitter end, but without result.
+    Sometimes we remained in one camp a day or more in order to
+    search the lion retreats more thoroughly, but never a
+    black-maned lion was routed from his lair. A few weeks later,
+    when the dry grass had been burned to make way for new grass,
+    as is done each year, the chances would be greatly improved,
+    and we hoped for better luck when we retraced our steps from
+    Elgon in December. Before that time it would be like trying to
+    find a needle in a haystack to find a lion in the tall grass,
+    and a good deal more dangerous if we did find one. There were
+    lots of them there, but they were taking excellent care of
+    themselves. In July, three months previous, Mr. McMillan, Mr.
+    Selous, and Mr. Williams were in this same district after
+    black-maned lions. They heard them every night, but saw only
+    one in several weeks. This one, however, made a distinct
+    impression. Williams saw it one day and wounded it at two
+    hundred yards. The lion charged and could not be stopped by
+    Williams' bullets. It was only after it had leaped on the
+    hunter and frightfully mauled him that the lion succumbed to
+    its wounds. And it was only after months of suffering that
+    Williams finally recovered from the mauling.</p>
+
+    <p>We felt that if Frederick Selous, the world's greatest big
+    game hunter, could not find the lion, then our chances were
+    somewhat slim.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p133.png"><img src="images/p133s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Lion Hunting in Tall Grass]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Lion Hunting in Tall Grass</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There had been few parties in this district since McMillan's
+    party left. Captain Ashton came in two months before us, and we
+    met him on his way out. With him was Captain Black, a
+    professional elephant hunter, who, three years before, on the
+    Aberdare, had had a bad experience with an elephant. It was a
+    cow that he had wounded but failed to kill. She charged him and
+    knocked him down in a pile of very thick and matted brush.
+    Three times she trampled him under her feet, but the bushes
+    served as a kind of mattress and the captain escaped with only
+    a few hones broken; although he was laid up for five weeks.
+    Ashton and Black did not have much luck in the present trip and
+    failed to get a single lion.</p>
+
+    <p>Two Spaniards passed our camp one day, inward bound. They
+    were the Duke of Pe&ntilde;aranda and Sr. de la Huerta, and
+    reported no lions during their few days in the district. Prince
+    Lichtenstein was also somewhere on the plateau, but we didn't
+    run across him. In addition to these three parties and ours,
+    the only other expedition in the Guas Ngishu Plateau was
+    Colonel Roosevelt's party, toward which, by previous agreement,
+    we made our way.</p>
+
+    <p>A number of months before Mr. Akeley, who headed our party,
+    was dining with President Roosevelt at the White House. In the
+    course of their talk, which was about Africa and Mr. Akeley's
+    former African hunting and collecting experiences, the latter
+    had told the president about a group of elephants that he was
+    going to collect and mount for the American Museum of History
+    in New York. President Roosevelt was asked if he would
+    co&ouml;perate in the work, and he expressed a keen willingness
+    to do so. When our party arrived at Nairobi, in September, a
+    letter awaited Mr. Akeley, renewing Colonel Roosevelt's desire
+    to help in collecting the group.</p>
+
+    <p>It was in answer to this invitation that Mr. Akeley and our
+    party had gone to the Mount Elgon country to meet Mr. Roosevelt
+    and carry out the elephant-hunting compact made many months
+    before at the White House.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0691.jpg"><img src="images/img0691s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: Kermit, Leslie Tarlton and Colonel Roosevelt]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Kermit, Leslie Tarlton and Colonel Roosevelt</p><a href=
+      "images/img0595a.jpg"><img src="images/img0595as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Winding Through Unbroken Country]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Winding Through Unbroken Country</p><a href=
+      "images/img0595b.jpg"><img src="images/img0595bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Our Safari on the March]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Our Safari on the March</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Eleven days of marching and hunting from the railroad
+    brought us to Sergoi, the very uttermost outpost of
+    semi-civilization. Here we found another letter in which Mr.
+    Akeley was asked to come to the Roosevelt camp, and which
+    suggested that a native runner could pilot him to its
+    whereabouts. The letter had been written some days before and
+    had been for some time at Sergoi. Whether the Roosevelt camp
+    had been moved in the meantime could not be determined at
+    Sergoi, and we knew only in a general way that it was probably
+    somewhere on the Nzoia River (pronounced Enzoya), two or three
+    days' march west of Sergoi, toward Mount Elgon.</p>
+
+    <p>So we started across, meeting no natives who possibly could
+    have given any information. On the afternoon of November
+    thirteenth we went into camp on the edge of a great swamp, or
+    <em>tinga-tinga</em>, as the natives call it, only a couple of
+    hours' march from the river. Many fresh elephant trails had
+    been discovered, and the swamp itself looked like a most
+    promising place for lions. A great tree stood on one side of
+    the swamp, and in its branches was a platform which an
+    Englishman had occupied seven nights in a vain quest for lions
+    some time before. A little grass shelter was below the tree,
+    and as we approached a Wanderobo darted out and ran in terror
+    from us. The Wanderobos are native hunters who live in the
+    forests, and are as shy as wild animals. So we could not
+    question him as to Colonel Roosevelt's camp. Later in the
+    afternoon a native runner appeared from the direction of Sergoi
+    with a message to the colonel, but he didn't know where the
+    camp was and didn't seem to be in any great hurry to find out.
+    He calmly made himself the guest of one of our porters and
+    spent the night in our camp, doing much more sitting than
+    running.</p>
+
+    <p>On the morning of the fourteenth we marched toward the
+    river, two hours away, the native runner slowly ambling along
+    with us. We had been on the trail about an hour and a half when
+    a shot was heard off to our left; At first we thought it was
+    our Spanish friends, but a few moments later we came to a point
+    where we could see, about a mile away, a long string of porters
+    winding along in the direction from which we came, it was
+    plainly a much larger <em>safari</em> than the Spanish one, and
+    we at once concluded that it was Colonel Roosevelt's.</p>
+
+    <p>Three or four men on horses were visible, but could not be
+    recognized with our glasses. The number corresponded to the
+    colonel's party, however, which we knew to consist of himself
+    and Kermit, Edmund Heller and Leslie Tarlton. A messenger was
+    sent across the hills to establish their identity and we
+    marched on to the river, a half-hour farther, where we found
+    the smoldering fires of their camp.</p>
+
+    <p>A transport wagon of supplies for the Duke of
+    Pe&ntilde;aranda's <em>safari</em> was also there, and from the
+    drivers it was definitely learned that the late occupants of
+    the camp were Mr. Roosevelt and his party. In the meantime the
+    messenger had reached Colonel Roosevelt, and when the latter
+    learned that Mr. Akeley's <em>safari</em> was in the vicinity
+    he at once ordered camp pitched forty-five minutes from our
+    camp, and started across to see Akeley. The latter had also
+    started across to see the colonel, and they met on the way. And
+    during all this time the native runner with the message to
+    Colonel Roosevelt was loafing the morning away in our camp.
+    What the message might be, of course, we didn't know, but we
+    hoped that it was nothing of importance. It was only when the
+    colonel and his party reached our camp that the message was
+    delivered. As we stood talking and congratulating everybody on
+    how well he was looking the colonel casually opened the
+    message.</p>
+
+    <p>He seemed amused, and somewhat surprised, and at once read
+    it aloud to us. It was from America, and said: "Reported here
+    you have been killed. Mrs. Roosevelt worried. Cable denial
+    American Embassy, Rome." It was dated November sixth, eight
+    days before.</p>
+
+    <p>"I think I might answer that by saying that the report is
+    premature," he said, laughing, and then told the story of a
+    Texas man who had commented on a similar report in the same
+    words.</p>
+
+    <p>Colonel Roosevelt certainly didn't look dead. If ever a man
+    looked rugged and healthy and in splendid physical condition he
+    certainly did on the day that this despatch reached him. His
+    cheeks were burned to a ruddy tan and his eyes were as clear as
+    a plainsman's. He laughed and joked and commented on the news
+    that we told him with all the enthusiasm of one who knows no
+    physical cares or worries.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p138.png"><img src="images/p138s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Reading the Report That He Had Been Killed]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Reading the Report That He Had Been Killed</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>"If I could have seen you an hour and a half ago," he told
+    Akeley, "I could have got you the elephants you want for your
+    group. We passed within only a few yards of a herd of ten this
+    morning, and Kermit got within thirty yards to make some
+    photographs." They had not shot any, however, as they had
+    received no answer to the letter sent several days before to
+    Mr. Akeley and consequently did not know positively that his
+    party had reached the plateau.</p>
+
+    <p>The colonel asked about George Ade, commented vigorously and
+    with prophetic insight on the Cook-Peary controversy, and read
+    aloud, in excellent dialect, a Dooley article on the subject,
+    which I had saved from an old copy of the Chicago
+    <em>Tribune</em>. He commented very frankly, with no semblance
+    at hypocrisy, on Mr. Harriman's death, told many of his
+    experiences in the hunting field, and for three hours, at lunch
+    and afterward, he talked with the freedom of one who was glad
+    to see some American friends in the wilderness and who had no
+    objection to showing his pleasure at such a meeting.</p>
+
+    <p>He talked about the tariff and about many public men and
+    public questions with a frankness that compels even a newspaper
+    man to regard as being confidential. Our <em>safari</em> was
+    the only one he had met in the field since he had been in
+    Africa, and it was evident that the efforts of the protectorate
+    officials to save him from interference and intrusion had been
+    successful.</p>
+
+    <p>Arrangements were then made for an elephant hunt. Colonel
+    Roosevelt was working on schedule time, and had planned to be
+    in Sergoi on the seventeenth. He agreed to a hunt that should
+    cover the fifteenth, sixteenth, and possibly the seventeenth,
+    trusting that they might be successful in this period and that
+    a hard forced march could get him to Sergoi on the night of the
+    eighteenth.</p>
+
+    <p>It was arranged that he and Mr. Akeley, with Kermit and
+    Tarlton and one tent should start early the next morning on the
+    hunt, trusting to luck in overtaking the herd that he had seen
+    in the morning. The hunt was enormously successful, and the
+    adventures they had were so interesting that they deserve a
+    separate chapter.</p>
+  </div><a name="IX" id="IX"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+
+    <h3>THE COLONEL READS MACAULAY'S "ESSAYS," DISCOURSES ON MANY
+    SUBJECTS WITH GREAT FRANKNESS, DECLINES A DRINK OF SCOTCH
+    WHISKY, AND KILLS THREE ELEPHANTS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">On</span> the afternoon of November
+    fourteenth, a little cavalcade of horsemen might have been seen
+    riding slowly away from our camp on the Nzoia River. One of
+    them, evidently the leader, was a well-built man of about
+    fifty-one years, tanned by many months of African hunting and
+    wearing a pair of large spectacles. His teeth flashed in the
+    warm sunlight. A rough hunting shirt encased his well-knit body
+    and a pair of rougher trousers, reinforced with leather knee
+    caps and jointly sustained by suspenders and a belt, fitted in
+    loose folds around his stocky legs. On his head was a big sun
+    helmet, and around his waist, less generous in amplitude than
+    formerly, was a partly filled belt of Winchester cartridges.
+    His horse was a stout little Abyssinian shooting pony, gray of
+    color and lean in build, and in the blood-stained saddle-bag
+    was a well-worn copy of Macaulay's <em>Essays</em>, bound in
+    pigskin. Our hero&mdash;for it was he&mdash;was none other than Bwana
+    Tumbo, the hunter-naturalist, exponent of the strenuous life,
+    and ex-president of the United States.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p142.png"><img src="images/p142s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Improving Each Shining Hour]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Improving Each Shining Hour</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>If I were writing a thrilling story of adventure that is the
+    way this story would begin. But as this is designed to be a
+    simple chronicle of events, it is just as well at once to get
+    down to basic facts and tell about the Roosevelt elephant hunt,
+    the hyena episode, and the pigskin library, together with other
+    more or less extraneous matter.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0693.jpg"><img src="images/img0693s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Flag Flew Over the Colonel's Tent]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Flag Flew Over the Colonel's Tent</p><a href=
+      "images/img0597.jpg"><img src="images/img0597s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Kermit and Mr. Stephenson Diagnosing the Case]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Kermit and Mr. Stephenson Diagnosing the Case</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Colonel Roosevelt, his son Kermit, Leslie Tarlton, who is
+    managing the Roosevelt expedition, and Edmund Heller, the
+    taxidermist of the expedition, came to our camp on the
+    fourteenth of November to have luncheon and to talk over plans
+    whereby Colonel Roosevelt was to kill one or more elephants for
+    Mr. Akeley's American museum group of five or six elephants.
+    The details were all arranged and later in the afternoon the
+    colonel and his party left for their own camp, only a short
+    distance from ours.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Akeley, with one of our tents and about forty porters,
+    followed later in the evening and spent the night at the
+    Roosevelt camp. The following morning Colonel Roosevelt, Mr.
+    Akeley, Mr. Tarlton and Kermit, with two tents and forty
+    porters and gunbearers, started early in the hope of again
+    finding the trail of the small herd of elephants that had been
+    seen the day before. The trail was picked up after a short time
+    and the party of hunters expected that it would be a long and
+    wearisome pursuit, for it was evident that the elephants had
+    become nervous and were moving steadily along without stopping
+    to feed. In such cases they frequently travel forty or fifty
+    miles before settling down to quiet feeding again.</p>
+
+    <p>The country was hilly, deep with dry grass, and badly cut up
+    with small gullies and jagged out-croppings of rock on the low
+    ridges. At all times the ears of the hunting party were alert
+    for any sound that would indicate the proximity of the herd,
+    but for several hours no trumpeting, nor intestinal rumbling,
+    nor crash of tusks against small trees were heard. Finally, at
+    about eleven o'clock, Tarlton, who, strangely enough, is partly
+    deaf, heard a sound that caused the hunting party to stop
+    short. He heard elephants. They were undoubtedly only a short
+    distance ahead, but as the wind was from their direction there
+    was little likelihood that they had heard the approach of the
+    hunters. So Tarlton, who has had much experience in elephant
+    hunting, led the party off at a right angle from the elephant
+    trail and then, turning, paralleled the trail a few hundred
+    feet away. They had gone only a short distance when it became
+    evident that they had passed the herd, which was hidden by the
+    tall grass and the thickly-growing scrub trees that grew on all
+    sides.</p>
+
+    <p>The wooded character of the country rendered it easy to
+    stalk the elephant herd, and with careful attention to the
+    wind, the four hunters and their gunbearers advanced under
+    cover until the elephants could be seen and studied. Each of
+    the four hunters carried a large double-barreled cordite rifle
+    that fires a five-hundred-grain bullet, backed up by nearly a
+    hundred grains of cordite.</p>
+
+    <p>As was expected, the herd consisted solely of cows and
+    calves. There were eight cow elephants and two <em>totos</em>,
+    or calves, a circumstance that was particularly fortunate, as
+    Colonel Roosevelt was expected to secure one or two cows for
+    the group, while some one else was to get the calf.</p>
+
+    <p>For some moments the hunting party studied the group of
+    animals and finally decided which ones were the best for the
+    group.</p>
+
+    <p>Two of the largest cows and the calf of one of them were
+    selected. It is always the desire of collectors who kill groups
+    of animals for museums to kill the calf and the mother at the
+    same time whenever practicable, so that neither one is left to
+    mourn the loss of the other. It is one of the unpleasant
+    features of group collecting that calves must be killed, but
+    the collector justifies himself in the thought that many
+    thousands of people will be instructed and interested in the
+    group when it is finished.</p>
+
+    <p>Elephant hunting is considered by many African hunters as
+    being the most dangerous of all hunting. When a man is wounded
+    by an elephant he is pretty likely to die, whereas the wounds
+    inflicted by lions are often not necessarily mortal ones. Also,
+    in fighting a wounded lion one may sometimes take refuge in the
+    low branches of a tree, but with a wounded elephant there is
+    rarely time to climb high enough and quick enough to escape the
+    frenzied animal. In elephant shooting, also, the hunter
+    endeavors to approach within twenty or thirty yards, so that
+    the bullets may be placed exactly where their penetration will
+    be the most instantaneously deadly. Consequently, a badly
+    placed bullet may merely infuriate the elephant without giving
+    the hunter time to gain a place of safety, and thus be much
+    worse than if the hunter had entirely missed his mark.</p>
+
+    <p>Among elephant hunters it is considered more dangerous to
+    attack a cow elephant than a bull, for the cow is always ready
+    and eager to defend its calf, hence when Colonel Roosevelt
+    prepared to open fire on a cow elephant, accompanied by a calf,
+    at a range of thirty yards, in a district where the highest
+    tree was within reach of an elephant's trunk, the situation was
+    one fraught with tense uncertainty.</p>
+
+    <p>Colonel Roosevelt is undoubtedly a brave man. The men who
+    have hunted with him in Africa say that he has never shown the
+    slightest sign of fear in all the months of big game hunting
+    that they have done together. He "holds straight," as they say
+    in shooting parlance, and at short range, where his eyesight is
+    most effective, he shoots accurately.</p>
+
+    <p>This, then, was the dramatic situation at about twelve
+    o'clock noon on November fifteenth, eight miles east of the
+    Nzoia River, near Mount Elgon: Eight cow elephants, two
+    <em>totos</em>, one ex-president with a double-barreled cordite
+    rifle thirty yards away, supported by three other hunters
+    similarly armed, with native gunbearers held in the rear as a
+    supporting column.</p>
+
+    <p>The colonel opened fire; the biggest cow dropped to her
+    knees and in an instant the air was thunderous with the excited
+    "milling" of the herd of elephants. For several anxious minutes
+    the spot was the scene of much confusion, and when quiet was
+    once more restored Colonel Roosevelt had killed three elephants
+    and Kermit had killed one of the calves. It had not been
+    intended or desired to kill more than two of the cows, but with
+    a herd of angry elephants threatening to annihilate an
+    attacking party, sometimes the prearranged plans do not work
+    out according to specifications.</p>
+
+    <p>Kermit was hastily despatched to notify our camp and the
+    work of preparing the skins of the elephants was at once
+    begun.</p>
+
+    <p>In the meantime, we at our camp, eight miles away from the
+    scene of battle, were waiting eagerly for news of the hunting
+    party, although expecting nothing for a day of so. It seemed
+    too much to expect that the hunt should have such a quick and
+    successful termination. So when Kermit rode in with the news
+    late in the afternoon it was a time for felicitation. We all
+    solemnly took a drink, which in itself was an event, for our
+    camp was a "dry" camp when in the field. Only the killing of a
+    lion had been sufficient provocation for taking off the "lid,"
+    but on the strength of three elephants for the group the "lid"
+    was momentarily raised with much ceremony and circumstance.</p>
+
+    <p>The burden of Kermit's message was "salt, salt, salt!" and
+    porters and second gunbearers to help with the skinning. So
+    James L. Clark, who has been connected with the American Museum
+    of History for some time and who was with us on the Mount Elgon
+    trip to help Mr. Akeley with the preparation of the group,
+    started off with a lot of porters laden with salt for
+    preserving the skins. It was his plan to go direct to the main
+    Roosevelt camp, get a guide, and then push on to the elephant
+    camp, where he hoped to arrive by ten o'clock at night. He
+    would then be in time to help with the skinning, which we
+    expected would be continued throughout the entire night. Kermit
+    stopped at his own camp and gave Clark a guide for the rest of
+    the journey, after which he went to bed.</p>
+
+    <p>At eleven o'clock the sound of firing was heard some place
+    off in the darkness. The night guard of the Roosevelt camp,
+    rightly construing it to be a signal, answered it with a shot,
+    and, guided by the latter, Clark and his party of salt-laden
+    porters once more appeared. They had traveled in a circle for
+    three hours and were hopelessly lost. Kermit was routed out and
+    again supplied more guides&mdash;also a compass and also the
+    direction to follow. Unfortunately he made a mistake and said
+    northwest instead of southeast&mdash;otherwise his directions were
+    perfect.</p>
+
+    <p>For three hours more Clark and his porters went bumping
+    through the night, stumbling through the long grass and falling
+    into hidden holes. The porters began to be mutinous and the
+    guides were thoroughly and hopelessly lost. It was then that
+    they one and all laid down in the tall grass, made a fire to
+    keep the lions and leopards away, and slept soundly until
+    daylight. Even then the situation was little better, for the
+    guides were still at sea. About the time that Clark decided, to
+    return to the river, miles away, and take a fresh start, he
+    fired a shot in the forlorn hope of getting a response from
+    some section of the compass. A distant shot came in answer and
+    he pushed on and soon came up with the colonel and Tarlton
+    returning home after a night in the temporary elephant camp.
+    The colonel gave him full directions and at nine o'clock the
+    relief party arrived at their destination.</p>
+
+    <p>In the meantime we, Mrs. Akeley, Stephenson and myself, had
+    left our camp on the river at six-fifteen, gone to the
+    Roosevelt camp, and with Kermit guiding us proceeded on across
+    country toward the elephant camp. On our way we also met the
+    colonel and Tarlton, the former immensely pleased with the
+    outcome of the hunt and full of enthusiasm about the adventure
+    with the elephants. But the most remarkable thing of all, he
+    said, was the hyena incident. He told us the story, and it is
+    surely one that will make all nature fakers sit up in an
+    incredulous and dissenting mood.</p>
+
+    <p>During the night, the story goes, many hyenas had come from
+    far and near to gorge on the carcasses of the elephants. Their
+    howls filled the night with weird sounds. Lions also journeyed
+    to the feast, and between the two they mumbled the bones of the
+    slain with many a howl and snarl. Early in the morning the
+    colonel went out in the hope of surprising a lion at the
+    spread. Instead, to his great amazement, he saw the head of a
+    hyena protruding from the distended side of the largest
+    elephant. It was inside the elephant and was looking out, as
+    through a window. A single shot finished the hyena, after which
+    a more careful examination was made.</p>
+
+    <p>There are two theories as to what really happened. One is
+    that the hyena ate its way into the inside of the elephant,
+    then gorged itself so that its stomach was distended to such
+    proportions that it couldn't get through the hole by which it
+    had entered the carcass.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p150.png"><img src="images/p150s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Hyena Episode]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Hyena Episode</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The other theory is that, after eating its way into the
+    elephant, it started to eat its way out by a different route.
+    When its head emerged the heavy muscles of the elephant's side
+    inclosed about its neck like a vise, entrapping the hyena as
+    effectively as though it had its head in a steel trap. In the
+    animal's despairing efforts to escape it had kicked one leg out
+    through the thick walls of the elephant's side.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0695.jpg"><img src="images/img0695s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Kermit Roosevelt]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Kermit Roosevelt</p><a href="images/img0599.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0599s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: &quot;Peeling&quot; an elephant]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>"Peeling" an elephant</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The colonel, in parting, asked us to stop with him for lunch
+    on our way back and he would tell us all about the elephant
+    hunt and show us his pigskin library. In return we promised to
+    photograph the hyena and thus be prepared to render expert
+    testimony in case, some time in the future, he might get into a
+    controversy with the nature fakers as to the truth of the
+    incident.</p>
+
+    <p>We then resumed our journey and arrived at the elephant camp
+    at nine-thirty. It was a scene of industry. The skins of the
+    two largest elephants and that of the calf had been removed the
+    afternoon before and were spread out under a cluster of trees.
+    Twenty or thirty porters were squatted around the various ears
+    and strips of hide and massive feet, paring off all the little
+    particles of flesh or tissue that remained. As fast as a
+    section of hide was stripped it was thickly covered with salt
+    and rolled up. This is the preliminary step. Afterwards the
+    skin, in many places an inch in thickness, is pared down to a
+    condition of pliable thinness. This work requires hours or even
+    days of hard labor by many skilful wielders of the paring
+    knife. The skulls and many of the bones are saved when an
+    animal is being preserved for a museum, but when we arrived
+    they had not yet been removed from the carcasses.</p>
+
+    <p>Our first object was to visit the hyena, which we found
+    still protruding from the side of his tomb. We photographed him
+    from all angles, after which he was disinterred and exposed to
+    full view. He had certainly died happy. He had literally eaten
+    himself to death, and his body was so distended from gorging
+    that it was as round as a ball. Colonel Roosevelt also
+    photographed it, so that there will be no lack of evidence if
+    the incident ever reaches the controversial stage.</p>
+
+    <p>The third cow killed by Colonel Roosevelt was too small for
+    the group, so the skin was divided up as souvenirs of the day.
+    We each got a foot, fifteen square feet of skin, and one of the
+    ears was saved for the colonel.</p>
+
+    <p>We then started on the long two hours' ride back to the
+    Roosevelt camp, arriving there at a few minutes before one
+    o'clock. We had not been in camp ten minutes before a whirlwind
+    came along, blew down a tent, and in another minute was
+    gone.</p>
+
+    <p>A big American flag was flying from the colonel's tent, and
+    he came out and, greeted us with the utmost cordiality and
+    warmth. In honor of the occasion he had put on his coat and a
+    green knit tie. He was beaming with pleasure at the result of
+    the elephant hunt and seemed proud that he was to have
+    elephants in the American Museum group to be done by Mr.
+    Akeley. Heller was stuffing some birds and mice and was as
+    slouchy, deliberate and as full of dry humor as any one I've
+    ever seen. He is a character of a most likable type. Tarlton,
+    small, with short cropped red hair&mdash;a sort of Scotchman in
+    appearance&mdash;is also a remarkable type. He has a quiet voice,
+    never raised in tone, and talks like the university man that he
+    is. He is a famous lion hunter and has killed numbers of lions
+    and elephants, but now he says he is through with dangerous
+    game.</p>
+
+    <p>"I've had enough of it," he says.</p>
+
+    <p>The colonel, Tarlton, Heller, and Kermit were the only
+    members of the expedition present, Mearns and Loring having
+    been engaged in a separate mission up in the Kenia country for
+    several weeks, while Cuninghame had gone to Uganda to make
+    preparations for the future operations of the party in that
+    country.</p>
+
+    <p>Mrs. Akeley washed up in the colonel's tent, while
+    Stephenson and I used Kermit's tent, and as we washed and
+    scrubbed away the memories of the elephant carcasses the
+    colonel stood in the door and talked to us.</p>
+
+    <p>We told him that each of us had taken a drink of Scotch
+    whisky the evening before in honor of the elephants&mdash;the first
+    drinks we had taken for weeks.</p>
+
+    <p>"I'd do the same," said the colonel, "but I don't like
+    Scotch whisky. As a matter of fact, I have taken only three
+    drinks of brandy since I've been in Africa, twice when I was
+    exhausted and once when I was feeling a little feverish. Before
+    I left Washington there were lots of people saying that I was a
+    drunkard, and that I could never do any work until I had
+    emptied a bottle or two of liquor."</p>
+
+    <p>We told him that we had heard these rumors frequently during
+    the closing months of his administration, and he laughed.</p>
+
+    <p>"I never drank whisky," he said; "not from principle, but
+    because I don't like it. I seldom drink wine, because I'm
+    rather particular about the kind of wine I drink. We have some
+    champagne with us, but the thought of drinking hot champagne in
+    this country is unpleasant. Sometimes, when I can get wines
+    that just suit my taste, I drink a little, but never much. The
+    three drinks of brandy are all I've had in Africa, and I'm sure
+    that I've not taken one in the last four months. They had all
+    sorts of stories out about me before I left Washington&mdash;that I
+    was drinking hard and that I was crazy. I may be crazy," he
+    said, laughing, "but I most certainly haven't been drinking
+    hard."</p>
+
+    <p>The luncheon was a merry affair. Heller had been out in the
+    swamp in front of the camp and had shot some ducks for
+    luncheon.</p>
+
+    <p>"On my way in," said the colonel, "I shot an oribi, but when
+    I heard that Heller had shot some ducks I knew that my oribi
+    would not be served."</p>
+
+    <p>It was evident that the most thorough good fellowship
+    existed among the members of the colonel's party. His fondness
+    for all of them was in constant evidence&mdash;in the way he joked
+    with them and in the complete absence of restraint in their
+    attitude toward him.</p>
+
+    <p>"They were told that I would be a hard man to get along with
+    in the field," Colonel Roosevelt said, "but we've had a
+    perfectly splendid time together."</p>
+
+    <p>I asked him whether he had been receiving newspapers, and,
+    if not, whether he would like to see some that I had received
+    from home. He answered that he had not seen any and really
+    didn't want to see any.</p>
+
+    <p>"I don't believe in clinging to the tattered shreds of
+    former greatness," he said, laughing.</p>
+
+    <p>He had not heard that Governor Johnson, of Minnesota, had
+    died, and when we told him he said that Johnson would
+    undoubtedly have been the strongest presidential candidate the
+    Democrats could have nominated the next time. He wanted to know
+    where he could address a note of sympathy to Mrs. Johnson.</p>
+
+    <p>Later, in speaking of a prominent public man who loudly
+    disclaimed responsibility for an act committed by a
+    subordinate, he said:</p>
+
+    <p>"It would have been far better to have said nothing about
+    it, but let people think he himself had given the order. Very
+    often subordinates say and do things that are credited to their
+    superiors, and it is never good policy to try to shift the
+    blame. Do you remember the time Root was in South America?
+    Well, some president down there sent me a congratulatory
+    telegram which reached Washington when I was away. Mr. &mdash;&mdash; of
+    the state department answered it in my name and said that I and
+    'my people' were pleased with the reception they were giving
+    Mr. Root. Well, the New York <em>Sun</em> took the matter up
+    and when the fleet went around the world they referred to it as
+    'my fleet,' and that 'my fleet' had crossed 'my equator' four
+    times and 'my ocean' a couple of times. It was very cleverly
+    done and some people began to call for a Brutus to curb my
+    imperialistic tendencies."</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p156.png"><img src="images/p156s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Writing His Adventures While They're Hot]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Writing His Adventures While They're Hot</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>He told a funny story about John L. Sullivan, who came to
+    the White House to intercede for a nephew who had got into
+    trouble in the navy. John L. told what a nice woman the boy's
+    mother was and what a terrible disgrace it would be for himself
+    and his family if the boy was dropped from the navy. "Why, if
+    he hadn't gone into the navy he might have turned out very
+    bad," said John L.; "taken up music or something like
+    that."</p>
+
+    <p>We also told him that some of the American papers were
+    keeping score on the game he had killed, and that whenever the
+    cable reported a new victim the score up to date would be
+    published like a base-ball percentage table. In the last report
+    he was quoted as having killed seven lions, while Kermit had
+    killed ten. This seemed to amuse him very much, although the
+    figures were not strictly accurate. His score was nine and
+    Kermit's eight up to date. He was also amused by the habit the
+    American papers have of calling him "Bwana Tumbo," which means
+    "The Master with the Stomach," a title that did not fit him
+    nearly so appropriately then as it might have done before he
+    began his active days in the hunting field. He said, so far as
+    he knew, the porters called him "Bwana Mkubwa," which means
+    "Great Master," and is applied to the chief man of a
+    <em>safari</em>, regardless of who or what he is. It is merely
+    a title that is always used to designate the boss. We told him
+    that many natives we had met would invariably refer to him as
+    the Sultana Mkubwa, or Great Sultan, because they had heard
+    that he was a big chief from America.</p>
+
+    <p>He also laughingly quoted the attitude of Wall Street as
+    expressed in the statement that they "hoped every lion would do
+    his duty."</p>
+
+    <p>Later, in speaking generally of the odd experiences he had
+    had in Africa, he spoke of one that will surely be regarded as
+    a nature fake when he tells it. It was an experience that he
+    and Cuninghame had with a big bull giraffe which they
+    approached as it slept. When they were within ten feet of it it
+    opened its eyes and stared at them. A slight movement on their
+    part caused it to strike out with its front foot, but without
+    rising. Then, as they made no offensive moves, it continued to
+    regard them sleepily and without fear. Even when they threw
+    sticks at it it refused to budge, and it was only after some
+    time that it was chased away, where it came to a stop only
+    fifty yards off.</p>
+
+    <p>"I suppose W.J. Long will call that a nature fake," he said,
+    "and I wish that I had had a camera with me so that I could
+    have photographed it. I'm afraid they won't believe Cuninghame,
+    because they don't know him."</p>
+
+    <p>In the course of the luncheon the conversation ranged from
+    politics, public men, his magazine work, some phases of
+    Illinois politics, as involved in the recent senatorial
+    election, his future plans of the present African trip and many
+    of the little experiences he had had since arriving in the
+    country. Much that was said was of such frankness, particularly
+    as to public men, as to be obviously confidential.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0697.jpg"><img src="images/img0697s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Kermit Led the Way to the Elephant Camp]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Kermit Led the Way to the Elephant Camp</p><a href=
+      "images/img0601a.jpg"><img src="images/img0601as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Elephants' Skulls Were Saved]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Elephants' Skulls Were Saved</p><a href=
+      "images/img0601b.jpg"><img src="images/img0601bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Removing an Elephant's Skin]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Removing an Elephant's Skin</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>He was asked whether he had secured, among his trophies, any
+    new species of animal that might be named after him. In Africa
+    there is a custom of giving the discoverer's name to any new
+    kind or class of animal that is killed. For instance, the name
+    "granti" is applied to the gazelle first discovered by the
+    explorer Grant. "Thompsoni" is applied to the gazelle
+    discovered by Thompson. "Cokei" is the name given the
+    hartebeest discovered by Coke, and so on. If Colonel Roosevelt
+    had discovered a new variation of any of the species it would
+    be called the "Roosevelti &mdash;&mdash;."</p>
+
+    <p>The colonel said that he had not discovered any new animals,
+    but that Heller, he thought, had found some new variety of
+    mouse or mole on Mount Kenia. He supposed that it would be
+    called the Mole Helleri.</p>
+
+    <p>He then told about an exciting adventure they had with a
+    hippo two nights before. Away in the night the camp was aroused
+    by screams coming from the big swamp in front. Kongoni, his
+    gunbearer, rushed in and shouted: "Lion eat porter!" The
+    colonel grabbed his gun and dashed out in the darkness. Kermit
+    and one or two others, hastily armed, also appeared, and they
+    charged down the swamp, where a hippo had made its appearance
+    in the neighborhood of a terrified porter. Kermit dimly made
+    out the hippo and shot at it, but it disappeared and could not
+    be found again.</p>
+
+    <p>After luncheon the colonel said, "Now, I want to inflict my
+    pigskin library on you," and together we went into his tent and
+    he opened an oilcloth-covered, aluminum-lined case that was
+    closely packed with books, nearly all of which were bound in
+    pigskin. It was a present from his sister, Mrs. Douglas
+    Robinson. The tent was lined with red, evidently Kermit's
+    darkroom when he was developing pictures. A little table stood
+    at the open flaps of the entrance and upon it were writing
+    materials, with which Mr. Roosevelt already had started to
+    write up the elephant hunt of the day before. His motto seems
+    to be, "Do it now, if not sooner."</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p160.png"><img src="images/p160s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Pigskin Library]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Pigskin Library</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>I sat on his cot, Mrs. Akeley on a small tin trunk, and
+    Stephenson on another. The colonel squatted down on the floor
+    cloth of the tent and began to show us one by one the various
+    literary treasures from his pigskin library. The whole box of
+    books was so designed that it weighed only sixty pounds, and
+    was thus within the limit of a porter's load. Some of the books
+    were well stained from frequent use and from contact with the
+    contents of his saddle-bags. Whenever he went on a hunt he
+    carried one or more of these little volumes, which he would
+    take out and read from time to time when there was nothing else
+    to do. He never seemed to waste a moment.</p>
+
+    <p>His pride in the library was evident, and the fondness with
+    which he brought forth the books was the fondness of an honest
+    enthusiast.</p>
+
+    <p>"Some people don't consider Longfellow a great poet, but I
+    do," he said, as he showed a little volume of the poet's works.
+    "Lowell is represented here, but I think, toward the end of his
+    life, he became too much Bostonian. The best American," he said
+    later, "is a Bostonian who has lived ten years west of the
+    Mississippi."</p>
+
+    <p>He then showed us his work-box, a compact leather case
+    containing pads of paper, pens, lead pencils, and other
+    requirements of the writer. I did not see a type-writing
+    machine such as we cartoonists have so often represented in our
+    cartoons of Mr. Roosevelt in Africa. But, then, cartoonists are
+    not always strictly accurate.</p>
+
+    <p>Later on he spoke of the lectures he was to deliver in
+    Berlin, at the Sorbonne in Paris, and in Oxford the following
+    spring. I told him how surprised I had been to hear that he had
+    prepared these lectures during the rush of the last few weeks
+    of his administration. He said that he probably would be
+    regarded as a representative American in those lectures and
+    that he wanted to do them just as well as he possibly could. He
+    knew that there would be no time nor library references in
+    Africa, and so he had prepared them in Washington before
+    leaving America.</p>
+
+    <p>In regard to his future movements he seemed sorry that he
+    was obliged to take the Nile trip, and that he was only doing
+    it as a matter of business&mdash;that he had to get a white rhino,
+    which is found only along certain parts of the Nile.</p>
+
+    <p>"Going back by the Nile is a long and hard trip. For the
+    first twelve days we will not fire a shot, probably. It will
+    mean getting started every morning at three o'clock, marching
+    until ten, then sweating under mosquito bars during the heat of
+    the day, with spirillum ticks, sleeping-sickness flies, and all
+    sorts of pests to bother one; then long days on the Nile, with
+    nothing to see but papyrus reeds on each side."</p>
+
+    <p>And speaking of "rhinos" suggests a little incident that the
+    colonel told and which he considers amusing.</p>
+
+    <p>"One day one of the party was stalking a buffalo, when a
+    rhino suddenly appeared some distance away and threatened to
+    charge or do something that would alarm the buffalo and scare
+    it away. So they told me to hurry down and shoo the rhino off
+    while they finished their stalk and got the buffalo. So, you
+    see, there's an occupation. That settles the question as to
+    what shall we do with our ex-presidents. They can be used to
+    scare rhinos away."</p>
+
+    <p>On hearing this story I remembered that the thick-skinned
+    rhino is sometimes used by cartoonists as a symbol for "the
+    trusts," and the story seemed doubly appropriate as applied to
+    this particular ex-president.</p>
+
+    <p>Some member of our party then modestly advanced the
+    suggestion that the colonel might some day be back in the White
+    House again. He laughed and said that the kaleidoscope never
+    repeats.</p>
+
+    <p>"They needn't worry about what to do with this
+    ex-president," he said. "I have work laid out for a long time
+    ahead."</p>
+
+    <p>Another member of our party then told about the Roosevelt
+    act in <em>The Follies of 1909</em>, in one part of which some
+    one asks Kermit (in the play) where the "ex-president" is. "You
+    mean the 'next president,' don't you?" says Kermit. When
+    Colonel Roosevelt heard this he was immensely interested, not
+    so much in the words of the play, but in the fact that Kermit
+    had been represented on the stage&mdash;dramatized, as it were.</p>
+
+    <p>And as we left for our own camp the colonel called out:
+    "Now, don't forget. Just as soon as we all get back to America
+    we'll have a lion dinner together at my house."</p>
+  </div><a name="X" id="X"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER X</h2>
+
+    <h3>ELEPHANT HUNTING NOT AN OCCASION FOR LIGHTSOME MERRYMAKING.
+    FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND ACRES OF FOREST IN WHICH THE KENIA
+    ELEPHANT LIVES, WANDERS AND BRINGS UP HIS CHILDREN</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">The</span> peril and excitement of elephant
+    hunting can not be realized by any one who has known only the
+    big, placid elephants of the circus, or fed peanuts to a
+    gentle-eyed pachyderm in the park. To the person thus
+    circumscribed in his outlook, the idea of killing an elephant
+    and calling it sport is little short of criminal. It would seem
+    like going out in the barnyard and slaying a friendly old
+    family horse.</p>
+
+    <p>That was my point of view before I went to Africa, but later
+    experiences caused the point of view to shift considerably. If
+    any one thinks that elephant hunting is an occasion for
+    lightsome merrymaking he had better not meet the African
+    elephant in the rough. Most people are acquainted with only the
+    Indian elephant, the kind commonly seen in captivity, and judge
+    from him that the elephant is a sort of semi-domesticated beast
+    of burden, like the camel and the ox. Yet the Indian elephant
+    is about as much like his African brother as a tomcat is like a
+    tiger.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0699.jpg"><img src="images/img0699s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: The Hyenas Had Feasted Well]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Hyenas Had Feasted Well</p><a href=
+      "images/img0603.jpg"><img src="images/img0603s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Great Stretches of Dense Forest]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Great Stretches of Dense Forest</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Many African hunters consider elephant hunting more
+    dangerous than lion, rhino, or buffalo hunting, any one of
+    which can hardly be called an indoor sport. These are the four
+    animals that are classed as "royal game" in game law parlance,
+    and each one when aroused is sufficiently diverting to dispel
+    any lassitude produced by the climate. It is wakeful
+    sport&mdash;hunting these four kinds of game&mdash;and in my experience
+    elephant hunting is the "most wakefullest" of them all.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p165.png"><img src="images/p165s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Being Killed by an Elephant Is a Very Mussy Death]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Being Killed by an Elephant Is a Very Mussy
+      Death</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In my several months of African hunting I had four different
+    encounters with elephants. The first two were on Mount Kenia
+    and the last two were on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, near where it
+    merges into the lower slopes of Mount Elgon. The first and the
+    fourth experiences were terrifying ones, never to be forgotten.
+    An Englishman, if he were to describe them, would say "they
+    were rather nasty, you know," which indicates how really
+    serious they were. The second and the third experiences were
+    interesting, but not particularly dangerous.</p>
+
+    <p>Mount Kenia is a great motherly mountain that spreads over
+    an immense area and raises its snow-capped peaks over eighteen
+    thousand feet above the equator. The lower slopes are as
+    beautiful as a park and are covered with the fields and the
+    herds of the prosperous Kikuyus and other tribes. Scores of
+    native villages of varying sizes are picturesquely planted
+    among the banana groves and wooded valleys on this lower slope,
+    each with its local chief, or sultan, and each tribe with its
+    head sultan.</p>
+
+    <p>In a day's "trek" one meets many sultans with their more or
+    less naked retinues, and every one of them spits on his hand,
+    presses it to his forehead, and shakes hands with you. It is
+    the form of greeting among the Kikuyus, and, in my opinion,
+    might be improved. These people lead a happy pastoral life amid
+    surroundings of exceptional beauty. Above the cultivated
+    <em>shambas</em>, or fields of sweet potatoes and tobacco and
+    sugar and groves of bananas, comes a strip of low bush country.
+    It is a mile or two wide, scarcely ten feet high, and so dense
+    that nothing but an elephant could force its way through the
+    walls of vegetation. Most of the bushes are blackberry and are
+    thorny.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p167.png"><img src="images/p167s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Following the Trail]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Following the Trail</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The elephants in their centuries of travel about the slopes
+    have made trails through this dense bush, and it is only by
+    following these trails that one can reach the upper heights of
+    the mountain. Above the bush belt comes the great forest belt,
+    sublimely grand in its hugeness and beauty, and above this belt
+    comes the encircling band of bamboo forest that reaches up to
+    the timber line. There are probably five hundred thousand acres
+    of forest country in which the Kenia elephant may live and
+    wander and bring up his children. He has made trails that weave
+    and wind through the twilight shades of the forest, and the
+    only ways in which a man may penetrate to his haunts are by
+    these ancient trails. Mount Kenia, as seen from afar, looks
+    soft and green and easy to stroll up, but no man unguided could
+    ever find his way out if once lost in the labyrinth of trails
+    that criss-cross in the forest.</p>
+
+    <p>For many years the elephants of Kenia have been practically
+    secure from the white hunter with his high-powered rifles.
+    Warfare between the native tribes on the slopes has been so
+    constant that it was not until three or four years ago that it
+    was considered reasonably safe for the government to allow
+    hunting parties to invade the south side of the mountain. Prior
+    to that time the elephant's most formidable enemies were the
+    native hunter, who fought with poisoned spears and built deep
+    pits in the trails, pits cleverly concealed with thin strips of
+    bamboo and dried leaves, and the ivory hunting poachers. In
+    1906 the government granted permission to Mr. Akeley to enter
+    this hitherto closed district to secure specimens for the Field
+    Museum, and even then there was only a narrow strip that was
+    free from tribal warfare. It was at that time that his party
+    secured seven splendid tuskers, one of which, a
+    one-hundred-fifteen-pound tusker shot by Mrs. Akeley, was the
+    largest ever killed on Mount Kenia. And it was to this district
+    that Mr. Akeley led our <em>safari</em> late in October to try
+    again for elephants on the old familiar stamping ground. We
+    pitched our camp in a lovely spot where one of his camps had
+    stood three years before, just at the edge of the thick bush
+    and on the upper edge of the <em>shambas</em>. News travels
+    quickly in this country, and in a short time many of his old
+    Kikuyu friends were at our camping place. One or two of the old
+    guides were on hand to lead the way into elephant haunts and
+    the natives near our camp reported that the elephants had been
+    coming down into their fields during the last few days. Some
+    had been heard only the day before. So the prospects looked
+    most promising, and we started on a little hunt the first
+    afternoon after arriving in camp.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p169.png"><img src="images/p169s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Old Wanderobo Guide]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Old Wanderobo Guide</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We took one tent and about twenty porters, for when one
+    starts on an elephant trail there is no telling how long he
+    will be gone or where he may be led. We expected that we would
+    have to climb up through the strip of underbrush, and perhaps
+    even as far up as the bamboos, in which event we might be gone
+    two or three days. In addition to the porters we had our
+    gunbearers and a couple of native guides. One of these was an
+    old Wanderobo, or man of the forest, who had spent his life in
+    the solitudes of the mountain and was probably more familiar
+    with the trails than any other man. He wore a single piece of
+    skin thrown over his shoulders and carried a big poisoned
+    elephant spear with a barb of iron that remains in the elephant
+    when driven in by the weight of the heavy wooden shaft. The
+    barb was now covered with a protective binding of leaves. He
+    led the way, silent and mild-eyed and very naked, and the
+    curious little skin-tight cap that he wore made him look like
+    an old woman. As we proceeded, other natives attached
+    themselves to us as guides, so that by the time we were out
+    half an hour there were four or five savages in the van.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0701.jpg"><img src="images/img0701s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: He Was a Very Important Sultan]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>He Was a Very Important Sultan</p><a href=
+      "images/img0605a.jpg"><img src="images/img0605as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Saying Good-bye to Colonel Roosevelt]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Saying Good-bye to Colonel Roosevelt</p><a href=
+      "images/img0605b.jpg"><img src="images/img0605bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Visiting Delegation of Kikuyus]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Visiting Delegation of Kikuyus</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>No words can convey to the imagination the density of that
+    first strip of bush. It was like walking between solid walls of
+    vegetation, matted and tangled and bright with half-ripened
+    blackberries. The walls were too high to see over except as
+    occasionally we could catch glimpses of tree-tops somewhere
+    ahead. We wound in and out along the tortuous path, and it was
+    also torture-ous, for the thorn bushes scratched our hands and
+    faces and even sent their stickers through the cloth into our
+    knees. The effect on the barelegged porters was doubtless much
+    worse.</p>
+
+    <p>After a couple of hours of marching in those ca&ntilde;ons
+    of vegetation we entered the lower edge of the forest and left
+    the underbrush behind. We soon struck a fairly fresh elephant
+    trail and for an hour wound in and out among the trees,
+    stumbling over "monkey ropes" and gingerly avoiding old
+    elephant pits. There were dozens of these, and if it had not
+    been for the fact that our old guide carefully piloted us past
+    them I'm certain more than one of us would have plunged down on
+    to the sharpened stakes at the bottom. Some of the traps were
+    so cleverly concealed that only a Wanderobo could detect them.
+    In places the forest was like the stately aisles of a great
+    shadowy cathedral, with giant cedars and camphor-wood trees
+    rising in towering columns high above where the graceful
+    festoons of liana and moss imparted an imposing scene of
+    vastness and tropical beauty. In such places the ground was
+    clean and springy to the footfall and the impression of a
+    splendid solitude was such as one feels in a great deserted
+    cathedral. At times we crossed matted and snaky-looking little
+    streams that trickled through the decaying vegetation, where
+    the feet of countless elephants had worn deep holes far down in
+    the mud. Then, after long and circuitous marching, we would
+    find ourselves traversing spots where we had been an hour
+    before.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p172.png"><img src="images/p172s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Elephant Pits]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Elephant Pits</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The elephant apparently moves about without much definition
+    of purpose, at least when he is idling away his time, and the
+    trail we were following led in all directions like a mystic
+    maze. At this time I was hopelessly lost, and if left alone
+    could probably never have found my way out again. So we
+    quickened our steps lest the guides should get too far ahead of
+    us. In those cool depths of the forest, into which only
+    occasional shafts of sunlight filtered, the air was cold and
+    damp, so much so that even the old Wanderobo got cold. It made
+    me cold to look at his thin, old bare legs, but then I suppose
+    his legs were as much accustomed to exposure as my hands were,
+    and it's all a matter of getting used to it.</p>
+
+    <p>Our porters, especially those that were most heavily loaded,
+    were falling behind and there was grave danger of losing them.
+    In fact, a little later we did lose them. The trail became
+    fresher and, to my dismay, led downward again and into that
+    hopeless mass of underbrush which at this point extended some
+    distance into the lower levels of the forest. We could not see
+    in any direction more than twenty-five feet&mdash;except above. If
+    our lives had depended on it we could not have penetrated the
+    dense matted barriers of vegetation on each side of the narrow
+    trail. The bare thought of meeting an elephant in such a place
+    sent a cold chill down the back. If he happened to be coming
+    toward us our only hope was in killing him before he could
+    charge twenty-five feet, and, if we did kill him, to avoid
+    being crushed by his body as it plunged forward. Without
+    question it was the worst place in the world to encounter an
+    elephant. And I prayed that we might get into more open forest
+    before we came up with the ones we were trailing. You can't
+    imagine how earnestly we all joined in that prayer.</p>
+
+    <p>It was at this unpropitious moment that we
+    heard&mdash;startlingly near&mdash;the sharp crash of a tusk against a
+    tree somewhere just ahead. It was a most unwelcome sound. There
+    was no way of determining where the elephant was, for we were
+    hemmed in by solid walls of bush and could not have seen an
+    elephant ten feet on either side of the narrow trail. We also
+    didn't know whether he was coming or going or whether he was on
+    our trail or some other one of the maze of trails.</p>
+
+    <p>We quickly prepared for the worst. With our three heavy guns
+    we crouched in the trail, waiting for the huge bulk of an
+    elephant to loom up before us. Then came another thunderous
+    crash to our right&mdash;and it seemed scarcely fifty yards away.
+    Then a shrill squeal of a startled elephant off to our left and
+    still another to the rear. Some elephants had evidently just
+    caught our scent, and if the rest of the elephants became
+    alarmed and started a stampede through the bush the situation
+    would become extremely irksome for a man of quiet-loving
+    tendencies. The thought of elephants charging down those narrow
+    trails, perhaps from two directions at once, was one that
+    started a copious flow of cold perspiration. We waited for
+    several years of intense apprehension. There was absolute
+    silence. The elephants also were evidently awaiting further
+    developments.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0703.jpg"><img src="images/img0703s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Clearing in the Forest]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Clearing in the Forest</p><a href=
+      "images/img0607a.jpg"><img src="images/img0607as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Kikuyu &quot;Cotillion&quot;]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Kikuyu "Cotillion"</p><a href=
+      "images/img0607b.jpg"><img src="images/img0607bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Kikuyu Women Flailing Grain]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Kikuyu Women Flailing Grain</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Then we edged slowly onward along the trail, approaching
+    each turning with extreme caution and then edging on to the
+    next. Somewhere ahead and on two sides of us there were real,
+    live, wild elephants that probably were not in a mood to
+    welcome visitors from Chicago. How near they were we didn't
+    know&mdash;except that the sounds had come from very near, certainly
+    not more than a hundred yards&mdash;and we hoped that we might go
+    safely forward to where the bush would be thin enough to allow
+    us to see our surroundings. But there was no clearing. Several
+    times a crash of underbrush either ahead or to one side brought
+    us to anxious attention with fingers at the trigger guards. At
+    last, after what seemed to be hours of nervous tension, we came
+    to a crossing of trails, down which we could see in four
+    directions thirty or forty feet. A large tree grew near the
+    intersection of the trails, and here we waited within reach of
+    its friendly protection. It was much more reassuring than to
+    stand poised in a narrow trail with no possibility of
+    sidestepping a charge. We waited at the crossing for further
+    sounds of the elephants&mdash;waited for some time with rifles ready
+    and then gradually relaxed our taut nerves. A line of porters
+    with their burdens were huddled in one of the trails awaiting
+    developments. I took a picture of the situation and had stood
+    my rifle against the tree, and sat down to whisper the
+    situation over. All immediate danger seemed to have passed. It
+    seemed to, but it hadn't.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p176.png"><img src="images/p176s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Porters Came Down the Trail]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Porters Came Down the Trail</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Like a sudden unexpected explosion of a thirteen-inch gun
+    there was a thundering crash in the bushes behind the porters,
+    then a perfect avalanche of terrified porters, a dropping of
+    bundles, a wild dash for the protection of the tree, and a
+    bunch of the most startled white men ever seen on Mount Kenia.
+    I reached the tree in two jumps, and three would have been a
+    good record. The crashing of bushes and small trees at our
+    elbows marked the course of a frenzied or frightened elephant,
+    and to our intense relief the sounds diminished as the animal
+    receded. I don't think I was ever so frightened in my life. But
+    I had company. I didn't monopolize all the fright that was used
+    in those few seconds of terror.</p>
+
+    <p>We then decided that there was no sane excuse for hunting
+    elephants under such conditions. We at least demanded that we
+    ought to see what we were hunting rather than blindly stumble
+    through dense bush with elephants all around us. So we beat a
+    masterly retreat, not without two more serious threats from the
+    hidden elephants. A boy was sent up a tree to try to locate the
+    elephants, but even up there it was impossible to distinguish
+    anything in the mass of vegetation around. We fired guns to
+    frighten away the animals, but at each report there was only a
+    restless rustle in the brush that said that they were still
+    there and waiting, perhaps as badly scared as we were.</p>
+
+    <p>My second elephant experience came the next day.</p>
+
+    <p>We started forth again, with a single tent, our guides and
+    gunbearers, a cook and a couple of tent boys and twenty
+    porters. This time we politely ignored all elephant trails in
+    the dense bush and pushed on through the forest. Here it was
+    infinitely better, for one could see some distance in all
+    directions. We climbed steadily for a couple of thousand feet,
+    always in forest so wild and grand and beautiful as to exceed
+    all dreams of what an African forest could be. It more than
+    fulfilled the preconceptions of a tropical forest such as you
+    see described in stories of the Congo and the Amazon.</p>
+
+    <p>The air was cold in the shadows, but pleasant in the little
+    open glades that occasionally spread out before us. Once or
+    twice in the heart of that overwhelming forest we found little
+    circular clearings so devoid of trees as to seem like
+    artificial clearings. Once we found the skull of an elephant
+    and scores of times we narrowly escaped the deep elephant traps
+    that lay in our paths. Many times we saw evidences of the giant
+    forest pig that lives on Mount Kenia and has only once or twice
+    been killed by a white man. Sometimes we came to deep ravines
+    with sides that led for a hundred feet almost perpendicularly
+    through tangles of creepers and bogs of rotted vegetation.</p>
+
+    <p>We dragged ourselves up by clinging to vines and monkey
+    ropes. On all sides was a solitude so vast as almost to
+    overpower the senses. The sounds of bird life seemed only to
+    intensify the effect of solitude. Once in a while we came upon
+    evidences of human habitation, little huts of twigs and leaves,
+    where the Wanderobo, or man of the forest, lived and hunted. Up
+    in some of the trees were thin cylindrical wooden honey pots,
+    some of them ages old and some comparatively new. And in the
+    lower levels of the forest we saw where the Kikuyu women had
+    come up for firewood. For some strange reason the elephants are
+    not afraid of the native women and will not be disturbed by the
+    sight of one of them. After seeing the women I am not surprised
+    that they feel that way about it, but I don't see how they can
+    tell the women from the men. Possibly because they know that
+    only the women do such manual labor as to carry wood.</p>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon we reached the bamboos which lie above the
+    forest belt. Here the ground is clean and heavily carpeted with
+    dry bamboo leaves. The bamboos grow close together, all
+    seemingly of the same size, and are pervaded with a cool,
+    greenish shadow that is almost sunny in comparison with the
+    deep, solemn shades of the great forest.</p>
+
+    <p>Then we struck a trail. The old Wanderobo guide said it was
+    only an hour or so old and that we should soon overtake the
+    elephant. It was evidently only one elephant and not a large
+    one. It is fascinating to watch an experienced elephant hunter
+    and to see how eloquent the trail is to him. A broken twig
+    means something, the blades of grass turned a certain way will
+    distinguish the fresh trail from the old one, the footprints in
+    the soft earth, the droppings&mdash;all tell a definite story to
+    him, and he knows when he is drawing down upon his quarry. As
+    we proceeded his movements became slower and more cautious, and
+    the plodding drudgery of following an elephant trail gave way
+    to suppressed excitement.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p180.png"><img src="images/p180s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: It Looked Like the Rear Elevation of a Barn]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>It Looked Like the Rear Elevation of a Barn</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Slower and slower he went, and finally he indicated that
+    only the gunbearers and ourselves should continue. The porters
+    were left behind, and in single file we moved on tiptoe along
+    the trail. Then he stopped and by his attitude said that the
+    quest was ended. The elephant was there. One by one we edged
+    forward, and there, thirty yards away, partly hidden by slender
+    bamboos, stood a motionless elephant. He seemed to be the
+    biggest one I had ever seen. He was quartering, head away from
+    us, and we could not see his tusks. If they were big, we were
+    to shoot; if not, we were to let him alone. As we watched and
+    waited for his head to turn we noticed that his ears began to
+    wave slowly back and forth, like the gills of a fish as it
+    breathes. The head slowly and almost imperceptibly turned, and
+    Akeley signaled me to shoot. From where I stood I could not see
+    the tusks at first, but as his head turned more I saw the great
+    white shafts of ivory. The visible ivory was evidently about
+    four feet long, and indicated that he carried forty or fifty
+    pounds of ivory. Then, quicker than a wink, the great dark mass
+    was galvanized into motion. He darted forward, crashing through
+    the bamboo as though it had been a bed of reeds, and in five
+    seconds had disappeared. For some moments we heard his great
+    form crashing away, farther and farther, until it finally died
+    out in the distance.</p>
+
+    <p>It was the first wild elephant I had ever seen, and it is
+    photographed on my memory so vividly as never to be forgotten.
+    I was more than half glad that I had not shot and that he had
+    got away unharmed.</p>
+
+    <p>That night we camped in a little circular clearing which the
+    Akeleys called "Tembo Circus," for it was near this same
+    clearing that one of their large elephants had been killed
+    three years before, and in the clearing the skin had been
+    prepared for preservation. All about us stretched the vast
+    forest, full of strange night sounds and spectral in the
+    darkness. In the morning we awoke in a dense cloud and did not
+    break camp until afternoon. Our Kikuyu and Wanderobo guides
+    were sent out with promises of liberal backsheesh to find fresh
+    trails, but they returned with unfavorable reports, so we
+    marched back to the main camp again.</p>
+
+    <p>Thus ended our Kenia elephant experience, for a letter from
+    Colonel Roosevelt, asking Mr. Akeley if he could come to
+    Nairobi for a conference on their elephant group, led to our
+    departure from the Mount Kenia country.</p>
+
+    <p>The other two elephant experiences were much more
+    spectacular and perhaps are worthy of a separate story.</p>
+  </div><a name="XI" id="XI"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+
+    <h3>NINE DAYS WITHOUT SEEING AN ELEPHANT. THE ROOSEVELT PARTY
+    DEPARTS AND WE MARCH FOR THE MOUNTAINS ON OUR BIG ELEPHANT
+    HUNT. THE POLICEMAN OF THE PLAINS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">The</span> Mount Elgon elephants have a
+    very bad reputation. The district is remote from government
+    protection and for years the herds have been the prey of
+    Swahili and Arab ivory hunters, as well as poachers of all
+    sorts who have come over the Uganda border or down from the
+    savage Turkana and Suk countries on the north. As a natural
+    consequence of this unrestricted poaching the herds have been
+    hunted and harassed so much that most of the large bull
+    elephants with big ivory have been killed, leaving for the
+    greater part big herds of cows and young elephants made savage
+    and vicious by their persecution. Elephant hunters who have
+    conscientiously hunted the district bring in reports of having
+    seen herds of several hundred elephants, most of which were
+    cows and calves, and of having seen no bulls of large size.</p>
+
+    <p>The government game license permits the holder to kill two
+    elephants, the ivory of each to be at least sixty pounds. This
+    means a fairly large elephant and may be either a bull or a
+    cow. The cow ivory, however, rarely reaches that weight and
+    consequently the bulls are the ones the hunters are after and
+    the ones that have gradually been so greatly reduced in
+    numbers. The elephants of this district roam the slopes of the
+    mountains and often make long swinging trips out in the broad
+    stretches of the Guas Ngishu Plateau to the eastward, in all a
+    district probably fifty miles wide by sixty or seventy miles
+    long.</p>
+
+    <p>The hunters who invade this section usually march north from
+    the railroad at a point near Victoria Nyanza, turn westward at
+    a little settlement called Sergoi, and continue in that
+    direction until they reach the Nzoia River. Naturally, these
+    names will mean nothing to one not familiar with the country,
+    but perhaps by saying that the trip means at least ten days of
+    steady marching in a remote and unsettled country, far from
+    sources of supplies, I will be able to convey a faint idea of
+    how hard it is to reach the elephant country.</p>
+
+    <p>Our purpose in making this long trip of ten weeks or more
+    was to try for black-maned lion on the high plateau and to
+    collect elephants for the group that Mr. Akeley is preparing
+    for the American Museum of Natural History. The government gave
+    him a special permit to collect such elephants as he would
+    require, two cows, a calf, a young bull, and, if possible, two
+    large bulls. One or more of these were to be killed by Colonel
+    Roosevelt and one by myself. It seemed promising that the cows,
+    calf, and young bull could be got on Mount Elgon, but the
+    likelihood of getting the big bulls was far from encouraging.
+    Lieutenant-Governor Jackson thought we might be successful if
+    we directed our efforts to the southeastern slopes of the
+    mountain and avoided the northeastern slopes along the River
+    Turkwel, which had been hunted a good deal by sportsmen and
+    poachers. If we were unable to get the big bulls on Elgon it
+    might be necessary to make a special trip into Uganda for them.
+    However, we determined to try, and try we did, through eight
+    weeks of hard work and wonderful experiences in that remote
+    district.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0705.jpg"><img src="images/img0705s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Kikuyu Spearman]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Kikuyu Spearman</p><a href=
+      "images/img0609a.jpg"><img src="images/img0609as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Porters Like Elephant Meat]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Porters Like Elephant Meat</p><a href=
+      "images/img0609b.jpg"><img src="images/img0609bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: My Masai Sais and Gunbearers]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>My Masai Sais and Gunbearers</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At Sergoi, the very outpost of crude civilization, we were
+    warned not to go up the southern side of the mountain on
+    account of the natives that live there. We were told that they
+    were inclined to be troublesome. We met Captain Ashton and
+    Captain Black coming out after six weeks on the northern
+    slopes. They reported seeing big herds, but mostly cows and
+    calves. At Sergoi we also received word from Colonel Roosevelt
+    and at once marched to the Nzoia River, where we met him.</p>
+
+    <p>During our march we saw no elephants, but as we neared the
+    river there were fresh signs of elephant along the trail. It is
+    strikingly indicative of the "Roosevelt luck" that he saw, on
+    the morning we met him, the only elephants that he had seen in
+    the district, and that within twenty-four hours from that time
+    he had killed three elephants and Kermit one. Of this number
+    two cows killed by Colonel Roosevelt were satisfactory for the
+    group, and also the calf killed by his son, Kermit. This left
+    one young bull and two large bulls still to be secured, and to
+    that end we addressed our efforts during the succeeding
+    weeks.</p>
+
+    <p>For nine days we hunted the Nzoia River region, but without
+    seeing an elephant. There were kongoni, zebra, topi, waterbuck,
+    wart-hogs, reedbuck, oribi, eland, and Uganda cob, but scour
+    the country as we would, we saw no sign of elephant except the
+    broad trails in the grass and the countless evidences that they
+    had been in the region some time before. The country was
+    beautiful and wholesome. There was lots of game for our table,
+    from the most delicious grouse to the oribi, whose meat is the
+    tenderest I have ever eaten. There were ducks and geese and
+    Kavirondo crane; and sometimes eland, as fine in flavor as that
+    of the prize steer of the fat-stock show. Then there were
+    reedbuck and cob, both of which are very good to eat. So our
+    tins of camp pie and kippered herring and ox tongue remained
+    unopened and we lived as we never had before.</p>
+
+    <p>When the day's hunt was over the sun in a splendid effort
+    painted such sublime sunsets above Mount Elgon as I had never
+    dreamed of. And the music of hundreds of African birds along
+    the river's edge greeted us with the cool, delightful dawn.
+    Purely from an &aelig;sthetic standpoint, our days on the Nzoia
+    were ones never to be forgotten, while from the standpoint of
+    the man who loves to see wild game and doesn't care much about
+    killing it, the bright, clear days on the Nzoia were memorable
+    ones. The Roosevelt party went its way back to civilization;
+    the Spaniards, De la Huerta and the Duke of Pe&ntilde;aranda,
+    came and made a flying trip up the mountain for elephant, then
+    returned and went their way. The young Baron Rothschild came on
+    to the plateau for a couple of weeks and then disappeared. And
+    still we lingered on, happy, healthy, generally hungry, and
+    intoxicated with the languorous murmur of Africa.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p187.png"><img src="images/p187s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: With Sharp Stakes in Them]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>With Sharp Stakes in Them</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Then we marched for the mountain on our big elephant hunt.
+    The details of those twelve days of adventuring in districts,
+    some of which were probably never traversed before by white
+    men, our experiences with the natives, our climb up the side of
+    the mountain and our camp in the crater; our icy mornings, our
+    ascent of the highest peak, and our explorations of the ancient
+    homes of the cave-dwellers&mdash;all are part of a remarkable series
+    of events that have nothing to do with an elephant story. In
+    the forests we saw numberless old elephant pits, and on the
+    grassy slopes there were mazes of elephants' trails, some so
+    big that hundreds of elephants must have moved along them. But
+    we saw no elephants. We scanned the hills for miles and tramped
+    for days in ideal elephant country, but our quest was all in
+    vain. Then our food supplies ran low, our last bullock was
+    killed, and we hurried back to the base camp on the river, a
+    hungry, tired band of a hundred and twenty men.</p>
+
+    <p>The matter of provisioning a large number of porters far
+    from the railroad is a serious one. In addition to carrying the
+    <em>safari</em> outfit, the porters must carry their
+    <em>posho</em>, or cornmeal ration, and it is impossible for
+    them to carry more than a limited number of days' rations. So
+    the farther one gets from the base of supplies the more
+    difficult it is to move, and a relay system must be employed.
+    Porters must be sent back for food, often six or eight days; or
+    else a bullock wagon must be used for that purpose. In our
+    <em>safari</em> we used two wagons, drawn by thirty oxen, to
+    supplement the porters in keeping up food supplies, and even by
+    so doing there were times when rations ran low. In such times
+    we would shoot game for them, either kongoni or zebra, both of
+    which are considered great delicacies by the black man.</p>
+
+    <p>However, this is not telling about my memorable elephant
+    experiences in the Guas Ngishu Plateau.</p>
+
+    <p>We got back to the Nzoia River on December third. On the
+    fifteenth, after many more unsuccessful attempts to get in
+    touch with a herd, Mr. Akeley and I resolved to try the
+    mountain again. We thought that perhaps the elephants might
+    have moved northward along the eastern slope, and so we thought
+    we'd push clear up to the Turkwel River and find out beyond
+    question. We outfitted for an eight days' march, carried only
+    one tent and a small number of good porters. Only the absolute
+    necessaries were taken, for we expected to move fast and hard.
+    The first day we marched eight hours, crossed the Nzoia River,
+    and by a curious chance at once struck a fresh trail which was
+    diagnosed as being only a few hours old. The bark torn from
+    trees was fresh and still moist; the leaves of the branches
+    that had been broken off as the elephants fed along the way
+    were still unwithered, and the flowers that had been crushed
+    down by the great feet of the herd had lost little of their
+    freshness and fragrance.</p>
+
+    <p>The trail led us first in one direction, then in another;
+    sometimes it was a big trail that plowed through the long grass
+    like a river, with little tributaries branching in and out
+    where the individual members of the herd had swerved out of the
+    main channel to feed by the way. And sometimes when all the
+    herd were feeding, the main trail disappeared, to be replaced
+    by a maze of lesser trails leading in all directions. But by
+    the skilful tracking of our gunbearers the main trail would be
+    found again some distance onward. We followed the trail for
+    hours, and then, night coming on, we went into camp near a
+    small stream, choked with luxuriant vegetation. Akeley thought
+    he heard a faint squeal of an elephant far off, and while the
+    porters made camp we went on for a mile or so to investigate.
+    But no further sounds indicated the proximity of the herd.</p>
+
+    <p>Early the next morning we took up the trail again, and in
+    less than an hour my Masai sais pointed off to a distant slope
+    a couple of miles away, where a black line appeared. It looked
+    like an outcropping of rock. Akeley looked at it and exclaimed,
+    "By George, I believe he's got them!" and a moment later, after
+    he had directed his glasses on the distant spot, he said
+    briskly, "That's right, they're over there." And so, for the
+    first time, after having scanned suspicious-looking spots in
+    the landscape for weeks and always with disappointment, I saw a
+    herd of real live elephants. To the naked eye they looked more
+    like little shifting black beetles than anything else, but in
+    the glasses they were plainly revealed with swaying bodies and
+    flapping ears and swinging trunks.</p>
+
+    <p>In elephant hunting the first important thing to consider is
+    the wind, for the elephant is very keen-scented and is quick to
+    detect a breath of danger in the breeze. Fortunately we had
+    seen them in time. If we had gone ahead a few hundred yards
+    they would have got our wind and gone away in alarm, but this
+    had not occurred. We could see that they were feeding quietly
+    and without the slightest evidence of uneasiness.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0707.jpg"><img src="images/img0707s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Some Kikuyu Belles]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Some Kikuyu Belles</p><a href=
+      "images/img0611.jpg"><img src="images/img0611s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Wanderobo Guides]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Wanderobo Guides</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We left our horses and the porters under a big tree and told
+    the latter to come on if they heard any firing; otherwise, they
+    were to await our return. Then, with only our gunbearers and a
+    man carrying Akeley's large camera, we circled in a wide detour
+    until we were safely behind the elephants. The wind continued
+    favorable, and we cautiously approached the brow of a hill near
+    where we had last seen them. They had disappeared, but their
+    trail was as easy to follow as an open road. Before reaching
+    the brow of the next hill one of the gunbearers was sent up a
+    tree to reconnoiter the country beyond.</p>
+
+    <p>"<em>Hapa</em>," he whispered, as he carefully climbed down
+    and indicated with his hand that they were near. Again we swung
+    in a wide circle and came over the brow of the next hill.
+    There, four or five hundred yards away, was the herd of
+    elephants, standing idly under the low trees that studded the
+    opposite slope. There were between forty and fifty of them, and
+    from the number of <em>totos</em>, or calves, we assumed that
+    many of the big ones were cows. We studied the herd for some
+    minutes, estimating the ivory and trying in vain to pick out
+    the bulls. There is very little difference between the
+    appearance of a cow and a bull elephant when the latter has
+    only moderate-sized tusks. Usually the tusks of the male are
+    heavier and thicker, but except for this distinction there is
+    very little noticeable difference between the two. Of course,
+    an elephant with gigantic tusks is at once known to be a bull,
+    but if he has small tusks it is a matter of considerable
+    guesswork.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p192.png"><img src="images/p192s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Two Kongoni on Guard]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Two Kongoni on Guard</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We could not tell which ones of this herd were bulls, but
+    assumed that there must surely be several small-sized or young
+    bulls among them. We decided to go nearer, knowing that the
+    elephant's eyesight is very poor, and with such a favoring wind
+    his sense of smell was useless. It seemed amazing that they did
+    not see us as we walked up the slope toward them. When a couple
+    of hundred yards away we climbed a tree to study them some
+    more. They were in three separate groups, each of which was
+    clustered sleepy and motionless under the trees. They had
+    ceased feeding and had evidently laid up for their midday rest,
+    although the hour was hardly ten in the morning.</p>
+
+    <p>From our "observation tower" in the tree we studied the
+    three groups as well as we could. So far as we could judge
+    there were at least three bulls of medium size, but as we
+    looked those three lazily moved off toward the group on the
+    extreme left. At that time we were within about a hundred yards
+    of the nearest group with the wind still favorable, and except
+    for one thing we might easily have crept up through the grass
+    to within thirty or forty yards. Directly between us and the
+    elephants were two kongoni, one lying down and the other alert
+    and erect.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p193.png"><img src="images/p193s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Policemen of the Plains]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Policemen of the Plains</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The kongoni is the policeman of the plains. He is the
+    self-appointed guardian of all the other animals, and for some
+    strange, unselfish reason, he always does sentinel duty for the
+    others. His eyes are so keen that he sees your hat when you
+    appear over the horizon two miles away, and from that moment he
+    never loses sight of you. If you approach too near he whistles
+    shrilly, and every other animal within several hundred yards is
+    on the alert and apprehensive. The kongoni often risks his own
+    life to warn other herds of animals of the approach of danger,
+    and if I were going to write an animal story I'd use the
+    kongoni as my hero. The hunters hate him for the trouble he
+    gives them, but a fair-minded man can not help but recognize
+    the heroic, self-sacrificing qualities of the big, awkward,
+    vigilant antelope. Why these two sentinels had not seen us is
+    still and always will be a mystery, but it is certain that they
+    had not.</p>
+
+    <p>At the same time we knew that any attempt to approach nearer
+    would alarm them and they in turn would sound the shrill tocsin
+    of warning to the unsuspecting elephant herd, in which event we
+    might have to track the elephants for miles until they settled
+    down again. So we cautiously climbed down, retreated below the
+    edge of the hill, and worked our way up in the lee of the group
+    farthest to our left in the expectation of finding the three
+    bulls. From tree to tree, and in the protection of large
+    ant-hills, we moved forward until we were less than fifty yards
+    from the elephants. Then we studied them again, but could not
+    locate the bulls.</p>
+
+    <p>Probably at this time something may have occurred to make
+    the elephants nervous. Perhaps the warning cry of a bird or the
+    suspicious rustling of our footsteps in the tall grass, but at
+    any rate the herd began to move slowly away. Two of the larger
+    groups marched solemnly down the slope away from us and the
+    other disappeared among the low scrub trees to our right. We
+    followed the two larger groups and soon were again within a few
+    yards of them. An ant-hill four or five feet high gave us some
+    protection, and over the top of this we watched the enormous
+    animals as they stood under the trees ahead of us. While
+    watching these two large groups we forgot about the one that
+    had disappeared to the right.</p>
+
+    <p>Suddenly one of the gunbearers whispered a warning and we
+    turned to see this group only a few yards from us and bearing
+    directly down toward the ant-hill where we crouched in the
+    grass. They had not yet seen us, but it seemed a miracle that
+    they did not. If one of us had moved in the slightest degree
+    they would have charged into us with irresistible force. We
+    held our guns and our breath while these big animals, by a most
+    fortunate chance, passed by us to the windward of the ant-hill,
+    not more than thirty feet away. If they had passed to the
+    leeward side they would have got our wind and trouble would
+    have been unavoidable. I took a surreptitious snap-shot of them
+    after they had passed by, and for the first time in some
+    minutes took a long breath.</p>
+
+    <p>Then we circled the herd again and came up to them. They
+    were now thoroughly uneasy. They knew that some invisible
+    hostile influence was abroad in the land, but they could not
+    locate in which direction it lay. We saw the sensitive trunks
+    feeling for the scent and saw the big ears moving uneasily back
+    and forth. One large cow with a broken tusk was facing us,
+    vaguely conscious that danger lay in that direction. And then,
+    by some code of signals known only to the elephant world, the
+    greater number of elephants moved off down the slope and up the
+    opposite slope. Only the big, aggressive cow and four or five
+    smaller animals remained behind as a rear-guard. She stood as
+    she had stood for some moments, gazing directly at us and
+    nervously waving her ears and trunk.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p196.png"><img src="images/p196s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Rear-guard]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Rear-guard</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Akeley climbed to the top of an ant-hill and made some
+    photographs showing the big cow and her companions in the
+    foreground, while off on the neighboring hillside three
+    distinct groups of elephants were in view. The latter were
+    thoroughly alarmed and moved away very swiftly for some
+    distance and then came to a pause. The big cow and her
+    attendants then moved off, feeling that the retreat had been
+    successfully effected. Once more we followed them and came up
+    to them, and then once more we were flanked by a number of
+    elephants that had previously disappeared over the hill. They
+    had swung around and were returning directly toward where we
+    stood, unsuspecting.</p>
+
+    <p>We barely had time to fall back to some small bushes, where
+    we waited while the flanking party approached. They came almost
+    toward us, and when only about fifty feet away I ventured a
+    photograph, feeling that, if successful, it would be the
+    closest picture ever made of a herd of wild elephants. I used a
+    Verascope, a small stereoscopic French machine whose "click" is
+    almost noiseless. The elephants advanced and we huddled
+    together with rifles ready in the patch of bushes. It seemed a
+    certainty that they would charge, and that if our bullets could
+    not turn them we would be completely annihilated. But as yet
+    there was no sign that they saw us, or, if they did, they could
+    not distinguish our motionless forms from the foliage of the
+    scrub.</p>
+
+    <p>At last, the foremost elephant, barely thirty feet from us,
+    came to the trail in the grass by which we had retreated when
+    we first saw them. The trunk, sweeping ahead of it as if
+    feeling for the scent of danger, paused an instant as it
+    reached the trail and then the animal drew back sharply as
+    though stung. Then it whirled about and the herd went crashing
+    away through the sparse undergrowth. It was a time of the
+    utmost nervous tension, and I don't believe the human system
+    could undergo a prolonged strain of that severity.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p198.png"><img src="images/p198s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: It Started Back as Though Stung]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>It Started Back as Though Stung</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>During all this time we had not succeeded in positively
+    locating a bull elephant. Of all the forty-four elephants that
+    were visible at any one time, there was not one that we could
+    feel safe in identifying as the elephant needed for the group.
+    Three more times we stalked the herd to very close range, but
+    they were now so restless that nothing could be ascertained. So
+    finally we decided to get ahead of them and watch them as they
+    passed us, but just as we had reached a point where they were
+    approaching, the two kongoni gave a shrill alarm and the entire
+    herd made off in tremendous haste. Later, on our way back to
+    camp, we came up with one group of six or seven, but they
+    seemed too angry and aggressive to take needless chances with,
+    so we watched them a while and then left them behind.</p>
+
+    <p>During all that day we were with the herd nearly five hours,
+    five hours of intense nervous strain, during which time there
+    was never a moment when we were not in some danger of
+    discovery. But in spite of the aggressive bearing of some of
+    them at one time or another, I had the feeling that the
+    elephants would run away from us the instant they definitely
+    determined where we were. And it was while laboring under this
+    impression that I met my second Mount Elgon herd of elephants
+    and learned by bitter experience that the impression was wholly
+    false. But that is still another story, the story of being
+    charged five times in one day by angry elephants, and how I
+    killed a bull elephant for the Akeley group.</p>
+  </div><a name="XII" id="XII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+    <h3>"'TWAS THE DAY BEFORE CHRISTMAS." PHOTOGRAPHING A CHARGING
+    ELEPHANT. CORNERING A WOUNDED ELEPHANT IN A RIVER JUNGLE
+    GROWTH. A THRILLING CHARGE. HASSAN'S COURAGE.</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">On</span> the night of December the
+    twenty-third I sat out in a boma watching for lions. None came
+    and at the first crack of dawn my two gunbearers and I crawled
+    out of the tangled mass of thorn branches, and prepared to
+    return to camp two miles away. We were expecting my sais to
+    arrive with my horse soon after daybreak, and while waiting for
+    him to come, and for my gunbearers to get the blankets tied up,
+    I went across to a neighboring swamp in the hope of getting a
+    bushbuck. I was about three hundred yards from the boma when my
+    attention was drawn to a movement in the trees about a quarter
+    of a mile away. I looked and saw what I first thought was a
+    herd of zebras coming toward me. They looked dark against the
+    faint light of early dawn and seemed surprisingly big. Then I
+    realized! They were elephants! I had only my little gun and my
+    big double-barreled cordite was at the boma, three hundred
+    yards away. Breathlessly I ran for it, fearing that the
+    elephants might cut me off before I could reach it. There
+    seemed to be from seven to ten of them, but they soon
+    disappeared in the trees, going at a fast swinging walk.
+    Hassan, my first gunbearer, stopped to slip a couple of solid
+    shells in the gun while I ran to the top of a hill in the hope
+    of catching sight of the herd. But they had disappeared
+    entirely. We soon found the trail strongly marked in the
+    dew-covered grass. My sais then appeared with my horse. He had
+    seen two elephants and they had taken alarm at his scent and
+    were rapidly fleeing. So I galloped back to camp to tell the
+    rest of the party and to prepare for a systematic pursuit.</p>
+
+    <p>After breakfast, with Akeley, Stephenson, Clark and our
+    gunbearers, the trail was again picked up where I had left it.
+    It was then a little past nine and the elephants had two hours'
+    start of us. Their trail indicated that they were moving fast
+    and so we prepared for a long chase. For nearly two hours we
+    followed, Akeley tracking with remarkable precision. Sometimes
+    the trail was faint and merged with older trails, but by
+    looking carefully the fresh trail was kept. Soon we began to
+    see newly broken branches from the trees which indicated that
+    the elephants were getting quieted down and were beginning to
+    feed. It must have been about eleven o'clock when Stephenson
+    saw the herd far across on another slope. There were two of the
+    animals distinctly visible and another partly visible. They
+    were resting under some of the many acacia trees that dappled
+    the slope of the hill. We stopped to examine them with our
+    glasses. One seemed to have no tusks, but we finally saw that
+    it had very small ones. The other and larger one had one good
+    tusk and one that was broken off. After about twenty minutes we
+    left our horses and with only our gunbearers moved across
+    toward them, thinking that there must be others that we had not
+    yet seen. The wind was bad, sometimes sweeping up in our
+    direction through the depression between the two slopes and a
+    moment later coming from another direction. At one time the
+    wind blew from us directly toward the elephants and we expected
+    to see them take alarm and run away. But they did not. We
+    circled around and approached them from a better direction and
+    advanced to within a couple of hundred yards without being
+    detected. We then stopped for a conference. If there was a
+    young bull I was to kill it for the Akeley group; if there was
+    a large bull Stephenson was to kill it for himself; if there
+    were only cows we were not to shoot unless absolutely
+    necessary. In this event, Akeley was to take his camera, and
+    with "Fred," "Jimmy" Clark, and I as escorts with our
+    double-barreled cordite rifles, was to advance until he could
+    get a photograph that would show an elephant the full size of
+    the plate. If the elephants charged we were to yell and try to
+    turn them without shooting; if they came on we were to shoot to
+    hurt, but not to kill.</p>
+
+    <p>Fred was on one side of "Ake," Jimmy on another, and I on
+    Fred's left. Thus we slowly moved toward the elephants. A
+    reedbuck was startled out of the grass and noisily ran away,
+    giving the alarm. The elephants began feeling in the air with
+    their trunks and their ears began to wave uneasily. Finally
+    they turned and seemed about to go away. Then Fred saw, a short
+    distance to the right, some more elephants that had previously
+    been hidden by the trees. We both whispered to Ake to stop, but
+    he either did not hear us on account of his heavy sun hat or
+    else was too intent upon the elephants in front to heed.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0709.jpg"><img src="images/img0709s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Nandi Spearman]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Nandi Spearman</p><a href=
+      "images/img0613a.jpg"><img src="images/img0613as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce In the Deep Jungle Growth]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>In the Deep Jungle Growth</p><a href=
+      "images/img0613b.jpg"><img src="images/img0613bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: As the Elephant Fell]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>As the Elephant Fell</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>"Ake," whispered Fred, "there's a good bull over there with
+    good tusks. Wait a minute." But Ake, camera in position,
+    continued to advance and so we followed. The elephants, a big
+    cow and a half-grown one, were now facing us with ears wide
+    spread. They looked very nasty. I thought they would turn and
+    run away and was not uneasy about the outcome. But to my great
+    surprise they started toward us, first slowly and then at a
+    rapid trot, steadily gaining in swiftness. It was a real charge
+    and we yelled to scare them off. The big cow was in the lead
+    and she had not the slightest intention of being scared. Her
+    one idea was to annihilate us. We raised our rifles and
+    continued to yell, but on she rushed. She was only thirty yards
+    away when Jimmy fired, Fred fired, and then I. The huge animal
+    sank on her four knees and the half-grown one turned off and
+    stopped, confused and angry. Akeley had got a splendid
+    photograph of the charging cow and now he took one of the
+    smaller beast before we approached the cow. Upon our advance
+    the smaller one ran away but the big cow never moved again. She
+    was stone dead. The three bullets had struck her, Jimmy's high
+    as she was head on, Fred's between the eye and ear as she
+    swung, and mine just behind the orifice of the ear as the head
+    was still further swung by the shock of Fred's bullet. The
+    elephant rested on her four knees in an upright position, quite
+    lifelike in appearance. The small elephant ran off toward those
+    that we had seen on our right. I suggested that we immediately
+    follow the herd in the hope that a young bull might be found
+    among them. So off we went and in a few moments we saw them to
+    our right, apparently returning to where the cow had been
+    killed. It is entirely likely that the big broken-tusked cow
+    was going back to make trouble for us. Colonel Roosevelt had a
+    similar experience with a bull elephant that returned and
+    charged the hunters as they were standing about one that they
+    had just killed.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p205.png"><img src="images/p205s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: They Whirled Around]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>They Whirled Around</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>As the elephants moved along slowly we paralleled them and
+    studied them as well as we could. One was the big cow with the
+    one broken and one good tusk. She was leading the group, and
+    was doubtless a vicious animal. She was an enormous beast,
+    probably over eleven feet in height. Another was the half-grown
+    elephant, then a smaller one, and lastly a good-sized elephant
+    with two fairly good tusks. We tried to determine the sex of
+    this last one, I hoping that it was a bull, but fearing
+    otherwise. Ake thought it was a cow with tusks about twelve or
+    fourteen inches long, but the fact that its breasts showed no
+    signs of milk fullness led me to hope that it was a young bull,
+    and I determined to act on that supposition. I at once advanced
+    with my big gun in readiness. The two largest elephants at the
+    same moment whirled around and started swiftly toward us. I
+    rested my gun against the side of a small tree and after their
+    onward rush had brought them within fifty yards I fired as Ake
+    suggested, "just between the eye and ear." The animal swerved
+    but did not fall. Akeley and Stephenson fired at the big cow
+    and under the shock of their heavy shells she dropped to her
+    knees, then sprang up and came on again. Once more they shot
+    and she again went down on her knees, but got up, shaking her
+    head and turned a little to one side. Stephenson started to
+    shoot her again, but Ake shouted, "Don't shoot her again. She's
+    got enough." Mr. Stephenson followed her for some distance and
+    decided that she was going to recover, and so came back. In the
+    meantime my elephant, with the two smaller ones, was moving off
+    to the left, and with my small rifle I fired at its backbone,
+    the only vulnerable spot visible. A spurt of dust rose, but the
+    elephant did not stop. So, accompanied by Hassan and Sulimani,
+    my two gunbearers, I started after the wounded elephant and the
+    two younger ones. The big one was moving slowly, as though
+    badly wounded. The wind was bad, so we circled around to head
+    them off and in doing so completely lost them. Presently we
+    struck their trail and followed them by the blood-stains on the
+    grass.</p>
+
+    <p>After some minutes we saw them moving along in the tall
+    grass near the Nzoia River. Again we swiftly circled to head
+    them off before they could cross the river, but when we reached
+    a point where they had last been seen they had disappeared in
+    the dense tangle of trees and high reeds that grew at the
+    river's edge. We thought they would cross the river, so we
+    rushed after them. Suddenly Hassan yelled "Here they come!"
+    and, ahead of us, came the large elephant, its head rising from
+    above the sea of grass like the bow of a battleship bearing
+    rapidly down upon us. The two smaller ones were almost
+    invisible, only the back of one appearing above the reeds. We
+    were out in the open and the situation looked decidedly
+    dangerous. I hastily drew a bead on the big one's forehead,
+    fired, but it didn't stop. There was barely time for us to get
+    out of the way. I ran sideways toward a little mound that
+    furnished some protection, while Hassan, with a coolness and
+    courage that I both admired and envied, stood still until the
+    big elephant was within ten feet of him and then leaped to one
+    side as the three beasts swept by him, carried onward by the
+    impetus of their mad rush. As the big one passed it made a
+    vicious swing at him with its trunk.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0711.jpg"><img src="images/img0711s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Bow On]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Bow On</p><a href="images/img0615a.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0615as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Bull Elephant]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Bull Elephant</p><a href=
+      "images/img0615b.jpg"><img src="images/img0615bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Cooking Elephant Meat]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Cooking Elephant Meat</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Fortunately the elephants continued in their course and we
+    followed them with my big rifle again reloaded and ready. Once
+    more they turned in toward the river and were completely
+    swallowed up in the tall reeds. We again waded in after them
+    and had gone only a few yards when we once more saw the angry
+    head of the big one looming up as it came toward us. I fired
+    point-blank at the base of the trunk and the beast stopped
+    suddenly. Then it slowly turned and as it was about to
+    disappear in the tall elephant grass again I fired at its
+    backbone. The huge bulk collapsed and disappeared, buried in
+    the reeds. Hassan yelled that it was dead, but we couldn't see
+    for the grass. The situation now was perilous in the extreme.
+    The river made a sharp bend at this point like an incomplete
+    letter O, with a narrow neck of land through which the
+    elephants had passed when I had shot. At the narrow neck it was
+    about a hundred feet across while the depth of the "O" was
+    about three hundred feet and the width about two hundred and
+    fifty feet. This small peninsula was matted with a jungle
+    growth of high grass and reeds six or eight feet tall, while
+    the edges of the river were thickly wooded with small trees
+    tangled together and interlacing their branches over the narrow
+    but deep waters of the Nzoia.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p208.png"><img src="images/p208s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Awaiting the Charge]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Awaiting the Charge</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Down in the jungle depths of this peninsula there was a
+    violent commotion among the low branches of these trees, an
+    indication that the animal was not dead, but was thrashing
+    madly about as if desperately wounded. Hassan said it was the
+    young elephant and that the older one was dead, but this could
+    not be determined without pushing on through the reeds until we
+    would be almost upon them. This course seemed too dangerous to
+    try.</p>
+
+    <p>The river at this point was absolutely impassable for
+    animals. The banks were ten feet high and perpendicular. The
+    water was perhaps five or six feet deep and the width of the
+    swift stream not over twenty or thirty feet. The trees had
+    interlaced their roots and branches across the river and in the
+    water. No animal, not a tree climber, could possibly cross the
+    stream on account of the straight up and down banks.</p>
+
+    <p>So after a time we crept along through the grass at the edge
+    of the stream until we reached a point probably forty yards
+    from where the elephants doubtless were, although quite hidden
+    from our view. There was still a tremendous threshing in the
+    low branches of the trees and in order to see the animals we
+    had to creep cautiously across the peninsula to a point about
+    half-way, where a large, rotten, dead tree stood. This gave us
+    cover and from its screen we could see the three elephants,
+    only fifteen yards away. The head of the big one was still up
+    and it was turned directly at us. It was so close and so big
+    that the effect was terrifying.</p>
+
+    <p>"<em>Mkubwa</em>," whispered Sulimani, and that means "big."
+    So the big elephant, instead of being dead, was still alive,
+    with an impassable river at its feet on one side, a dense
+    tangle of trees on two other sides, and with a narrow open
+    aisle between it and ourselves. The two smaller elephants were
+    at its side. To see to fire I had to step out from the tree and
+    expose myself, and as I stepped out the wounded beast saw me
+    and reared its head as if to make a final rush. I fired
+    point-blank; it swung around and a second shot sent it down.
+    Hassan grabbed my arm and told me to hurry back before the two
+    smaller elephants charged. If they did so it might be necessary
+    to shoot them, which we didn't want to do. So we ran swiftly
+    back to the edge of the river and waited. But all was quiet,
+    and after a time we climbed across the river on the interlacing
+    branches, circled around to where the elephants were visible
+    just across the stream and scared the two smaller ones away.
+    Once more we swung across from branch to branch over the swift
+    waters of the river and reached the other bank where lay the
+    mountainous bulk of the dead elephant. It was a young bull
+    about eight feet high and with two well-shaped tusks twenty-two
+    inches long in the open, or approximately thirty-eight inches
+    in all.</p>
+
+    <p>Sulimani was sent to notify Mr. Akeley and Mr. Clark, and
+    after a long search found them, and together they arrived a
+    couple of hours later, followed by gunbearers and saises. Mr.
+    Stephenson had gone back to camp to see that salt and supplies,
+    with one tent, were sent out.</p>
+
+    <p>Then began the work of measuring the elephant, a work that
+    must be done most thoroughly when the trophy is to be mounted
+    entire. There were dozens of measurements of every part of the
+    body, enough to make a dress for a woman, and then came the
+    skinning, a prodigious task that took all of the late afternoon
+    and evening. We investigated the position of an elephant's
+    heart which Kermit Roosevelt had said was up in the upper third
+    or at the top of the second third of the body, a spot which
+    must be reached by a shot directed through the point of the ear
+    as it lay back. As a matter of fact, an elephant's heart lies
+    against the brisket, about ten or eleven inches from the bottom
+    of the breast. A broadside shot through the front leg at the
+    elbow would penetrate the heart.</p>
+
+    <p>At nine o'clock, Christmas Eve, the tent arrived and was
+    soon put up in the jungle of high grass at the middle of the
+    little peninsula. A more African scene can not be imagined. The
+    porter's fires, over each of which sticks spitted with elephant
+    meat <em>en brochette</em> were cooking, imparted a weird look
+    to the river jungle grass and spectral trees.</p>
+
+    <p>At ten o'clock we had our dinner and at eleven we put on our
+    pajamas and with the camp-fire burning before the tent and the
+    armed askaris pacing back and forth, gave ourselves up to lazy
+    talk, then meditation and then sound sleep.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a wonderful day&mdash;one always to be remembered.</p>
+
+    <p>The next day, Christmas, came without the usual customs of
+    Christmas morn. In the forenoon we stuck with the bull
+    elephant, getting its skin and bones ready for transportation
+    back to camp; and in the afternoon came the work of saving the
+    skull and part of the skin of the cow elephant. The porters
+    must have thought the day a wonderful one, for they ate and
+    gorged on elephant meat until they could hardly move.</p>
+  </div><a name="XIII" id="XIII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+
+    <h3>IN THE SWAMPS ON THE GUAS NGISHU. BEATING FOR LIONS WE CAME
+    UPON A STRANGE AND FASCINATING WILD BEAST, WHICH BECAME
+    ATTACHED TO OUR PARTY. THE LITTLE WANDEROBO DOG</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">One</span> of the most exciting phases of
+    African hunting is the beating of swamps for lion. A long
+    skirmish line of native porters is sent in at one end of the
+    swamp and, like a gigantic comb, sweeps every live thing ahead
+    of it as it advances through the reeds. All kinds of swamp life
+    are stirred into action, and a fairly large swamp will yield
+    forth the contents of a pretty respectable menagerie. Sometimes
+    a hyena or two will be flushed and once in a while a lion will
+    be driven out.</p>
+
+    <p>It is the constant expectation of the last-named animal that
+    gives such keen and long sustained interest to the work of
+    beating a swamp. One never knows what to expect. A suspicious
+    stir in the reeds may mean a lion or only a hyena; an enormous
+    crashing may sound like a herd of elephants, but finally
+    resolve itself into a badly frightened reedbuck. Most of the
+    time you expect reedbuck, but all the time you have to be ready
+    for lion. As a general thing a lion will slink along in the
+    reeds ahead of the beaters and not reveal himself until he is
+    driven to the end of the cover. Then he will grunt warningly or
+    show an ear or a lashing tail above the reeds, and instantly
+    every one is in a state of intense expectancy. What the next
+    move will be no one knows, but it is more than likely to be
+    something of a supremely dramatic sort.</p>
+
+    <p>One day we were beating swamps on the Guas Ngishu Plateau.
+    Lions seemed to be numerous in that district. Two days before I
+    had killed two lions near by, and during the morning Stephenson
+    and I had each killed a lioness in the same line of marshy reed
+    beds. We now intended advancing to the next large swamp of the
+    chain and see whether a large, black-maned lion might not be
+    routed out.</p>
+
+    <p>Conditions seemed propitious, for in this selfsame swamp
+    Colonel Roosevelt had seen the best lion of his trip some weeks
+    before. Perhaps the lion might still be there.</p>
+
+    <p>The campaign was planned with great thoroughness. Forty or
+    fifty porters were formed into the customary skirmish line and
+    on each side we paralleled the beaters with our rifles. At the
+    word of command the column began to advance and the interest
+    reached a fever heat. The swamp was five or six hundred yards
+    long, and for the first three hundred yards nothing of a
+    thrilling sort occurred. The shouts of the beaters blended into
+    a rhythmic, melodious chant and the swish of their sticks as
+    they thrashed the reeds was enough to make even the king of
+    beasts apprehensive.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0713.jpg"><img src="images/img0713s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Abdi, the Somali Head-man]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Abdi, the Somali Head-man</p><a href=
+      "images/img0617a.jpg"><img src="images/img0617as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Along the Nzoia River]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Along the Nzoia River</p><a href=
+      "images/img0617b.jpg"><img src="images/img0617bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Beating a Swamp for Lions]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Beating a Swamp for Lions</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Over on my side of the swamp there was a wide extension of
+    dry reeds and bushes through which I was obliged to go in order
+    to keep in touch with the skirmish line of porters. We had got
+    three-quarters the full length of the swamp and any moment
+    might reasonably expect to hear from a lion if there was one
+    ahead of us. Every rifle was at readiness and the porters were
+    advancing less impetuously. In fact, they were pretending to go
+    forward without doing so.</p>
+
+    <p>Suddenly a wild shout from a porter near by, then a hurried
+    retreat of other porters, and then a cautious advance gave sign
+    that something desperate was about to happen. We caught a
+    glimpse of reeds moving about and then saw something crouched
+    in the grass beneath. Two ears were finally distinguished among
+    the tangle of rushes, and there was no further doubt about it.
+    It was not a lion. It wasn't even a hyena.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a little dog. His presence in the middle of that
+    swamp was about as logical as if he had been a musk-ox or a
+    walrus. However, there he was, gazing up at us from the
+    bulrushes, with mild, friendly eyes and a little tail that was
+    poised for wagging at the slightest provocation. He was
+    instantly christened "Moses" for obvious reasons. Later the
+    name was changed to Mosina, also for obvious reasons.</p>
+
+    <p>After the line of porters had regained their composure the
+    lion beat continued, but no lion appeared. The sum total of the
+    wild beasts yielded by that promising swamp was one (1) little
+    black and tan dog with white feet.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p216.png"><img src="images/p216s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: It Was Not a Lion]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>It Was Not a Lion</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Some of our genealogical experts addressed themselves to the
+    task of figuring out the why and wherefore of little Mosina and
+    what in the world she was doing out in a lion and leopard
+    infested place. Leopards in particular are fond of dogs, not
+    the way you and I are fond of them, but in quite a different
+    way. A leopard, so it is said, prefers a dog to any other food
+    and will take daring chances in an effort to secure one for
+    breakfast, dinner, or supper. Therefore, how little Mosina
+    escaped so long is a mystery yet unsolved.</p>
+
+    <p>The experts decided after a thorough consideration of the
+    case, viewing it from all possible angles, that the little dog
+    was a Wanderobo dog. The Wanderobo are natives who live solely
+    by hunting and generally have the most primitive sort of a
+    grass hut at the edge of a swamp or deep in the solitudes of
+    the forest. They put rude honey boxes up in the trees to serve
+    as beehives, and it is from this honey and from the game that
+    they kill with their bows and arrows and traps and spears that
+    they manage to eke out a meager living.</p>
+
+    <p>Like all true hunters, they keep dogs, and it is more than
+    likely that little Mosina was the ex-property of some
+    wild-eyed, naked Wanderobo who lived in the swamp. When our
+    great crowd of noisy beaters appeared at the other end of the
+    swamp the Wanderobo had doubtless crawled out of his hole and
+    made off for the nearest tall grass. In going he had left
+    behind Mosina as a rear-guard to cover his retreat or to stay
+    the invaders' advance until he could reach the nearest spot
+    available to a hasty man.</p>
+
+    <p>So we adopted this theory as to why Mosina was in the
+    bulrushes, and in honor of her Wanderobo associations we again
+    changed her name to "Little Wanderobo Dog." So far as I know,
+    she is the only dog in history who has had three separate and
+    distinct names within two hours. Of course, there are people
+    who have called dogs more than three different names in much
+    less time, but they were not Christian names. One of the
+    bachelor members of the committee, who is known to be a
+    woman-hater, conferred the honorary title of the pronoun "he"
+    on Little Wanderobo Dog, and she has been "he" ever since. But
+    not without a bitter fight by those of the committee who think
+    the pronoun "she" is infinitely more to be admired.</p>
+
+    <p>Little Wanderobo Dog did not wait to be adopted. He adopted
+    us, but not ostentatiously at first&mdash;just a friendly wag here
+    and there to show that he had at last found what he was looking
+    for. By degrees he became more friendly and genial, so that at
+    the end of an hour he was thoroughly one of us.</p>
+
+    <p>I have never seen a milder-eyed dog than Little Wanderobo.
+    Innocence and guilelessness struggled for supremacy, with
+    "confidence in strangers" a close third. You couldn't help
+    liking him, for with those meek and gentle eyes, together with
+    manners above reproach, he simply walked into your heart and
+    made himself at home.</p>
+
+    <p>I think that we were a good deal of a surprise to him. In
+    all his short young life he had probably never known anything
+    but kicks and cuffs. When he met a stranger he naturally
+    expected to have something thrown at him, or to have a stubby
+    toe or hard sandal projected into his side. Imagine his
+    wonderment to find people who actually petted him and played
+    with him. At first he didn't know how to play, but it was
+    amazing to see how fast he learned. He was ready to play with
+    any and all comers at any and all times. You could arouse him
+    from a deep slumber and he would be ready to engage in any form
+    of gaiety at a second's notice.</p>
+
+    <p>They talk about "charm." Some people have it to a wonderful
+    degree. You like them the minute you meet them, and often don't
+    really know why. Perhaps because you simply can't help it.
+    Well, that was the chief characteristic of Little Wanderobo
+    Dog. He had more charm than anything I've ever met, and so it
+    is only natural that he should have walked into our affections
+    in the most natural, unaffected sort of way.</p>
+
+    <p>I don't know what he thought of us, but I really believe
+    that he thought he had gone to Heaven. We fed him and played
+    with him, and finally he gained a little assurance, and
+    actually barked. He barked at one of our roosters, and then we
+    knew that he considered himself past the probation stage. He
+    had confidence enough to assert himself in a series of lusty
+    barks without fearing a hostile boot or an angry shout. The
+    first time he barked we all rushed out of our tents in wonder
+    and admiration. It was the most important event of the day, and
+    it caused a great deal of talk of a friendly nature.</p>
+
+    <p>There was one umbrageous cloud on Little Wanderobo Dog's
+    horizon, however&mdash;a cloud that he soon learned to evade. The
+    Mohammedans didn't like him. It is a part of their creed to
+    hate dogs almost as much as pork, and to be touched by a dog
+    means many prayers to Allah to wipe away the stain of contact.
+    But Little Wanderobo Dog was not conversant with the Mohammedan
+    creed at first, and in his gladness and joy of life he embraced
+    everybody in the waves of affection and friendliness that
+    radiated from him like a golden aura.</p>
+
+    <p>The Somali gunbearers were disciples of Allah, and they
+    began to kick at him before he was within eight feet of them.
+    Two of the tent boys were also Mohammedans, but they had to be
+    more circumspect in their hostility. Whenever Little Wanderobo
+    Dog came around they would edge away, which gave the former a
+    certain sense of importance because it was flattering to have a
+    number of grown-up men fear him so much. Then there were a
+    number of the porters who were Mohammedans of a sort, but these
+    were wont to say, "O, what is a creed among friends?"</p>
+
+    <p>It was quite cold up on the plateau at night. Sometimes the
+    wind swept down from the distant fringe of mountains and shook
+    the tents until the tent pegs jumped out of the ground. The
+    night guard would pile more wood on the big central camp-fire
+    near our tents and the porters, in their eighteen or twenty
+    little tents, would huddle closer together for warmth. They
+    were nights for at least three blankets, and even four were not
+    too many.</p>
+
+    <p>Consequently Little Wanderobo Dog was confronted by the
+    necessity of adopting a place to sleep where he would be safe
+    from those sharp arrows of the north wind that swept across the
+    high stretches of the plateau. So he ingratiated himself into
+    my tent with many friendly wags of his tail and a countenance
+    of such benign faith in human nature that he was allowed to
+    remain. At many times in the night I was awakened and I knew
+    that Little Wanderobo Dog was dreaming about some wicked swamp
+    ogre that was trying to kick him.</p>
+
+    <p>At first he was not a silent sleeper, but later on these
+    awful nightmares came with less frequency and I presume his
+    dreams took on a more beatific character. As a watch-dog I
+    don't believe he had great value, because of his readiness to
+    make friends with anything and anybody. If a leopard had come
+    into the tent he would have said, "Excuse me, but I think you
+    are in the wrong place," but he would never have barked or
+    conducted himself in an ungentlemanly way.</p>
+
+    <p>One could never tell what was likely to come into one's tent
+    at night, even with armed askaris patrolling the camp all night
+    long. One cold night, before Little Wanderobo Dog had come to
+    live with us, I was awakened by a curious rustle of the tent
+    flaps. I listened and then watched the tent flap for some
+    moments, thinking that the wind might have been responsible.
+    But there was no wind and it seemed beyond doubt that some
+    animal had entered.</p>
+
+    <p>For a long time I listened, but could hear nothing; and yet
+    at the same time I had a positive conviction that I was not
+    alone in the tent. I wondered if it could be a leopard, or some
+    small member of the cat tribe. I knew that it wasn't a dog, for
+    there were no dogs anywhere in the vicinity of the camp. As the
+    minutes went by without any hostile move from the darkness, I
+    decided to let whatever it was stay until it got ready to
+    depart. So I went to sleep.</p>
+
+    <p>Once more in the night I was awakened by a noise in the tent
+    and as nearly as I could diagnose the situation, the noise came
+    from under my cot. But, I reasoned, if the animal is there,
+    it's behaving itself and if it were on mischief bent it would
+    have transacted its business long before. So I went to sleep
+    again.</p>
+
+    <p>Just at dawn the clarion crow of a rooster came from under
+    my bed. It was one of the roosters the cook had bought from a
+    Boer settler and had come in to escape the coldness of the
+    night air without. It was a most agreeable surprise, for there
+    was a homelike sound in the crow of the rooster that was
+    pleasantly reminiscent of the banks of the Wabash far away.</p>
+
+    <p>After Little Wanderobo Dog became "acclimated" to the warm
+    and friendly atmosphere of hospitality of the camp, he began to
+    show evidences of tact and diplomacy. He bestowed his
+    attentions, with unerring impartiality to all of us. In the
+    evening, and frequently during the day, he would pay ceremonial
+    visits to each of the four tents of the <em>msungu</em>, as the
+    white people are called. First he would approach the threshold
+    of one tent, cock an inquiring ear at the occupant, and upon
+    receiving the customary sign of welcome would wag himself in
+    and pay his respects. After a short call he would wag his way
+    out and call at the next tent, where the same performance was
+    repeated.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p223.png"><img src="images/p223s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: A Ceremonial Call]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>A Ceremonial Call</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>He never burst into a place like a cyclone of happiness, but
+    rather, he sort of oozed in and oozed out, his mild brown eyes
+    brimming with gentleness and his tail, that eloquent insignia
+    of canine gladness, wigwagging messages of good cheer.</p>
+
+    <p>In one of the tents of the <em>msungu</em> there was a pet
+    monkey. It had been captured down on the Tana River months
+    before and at first was wild and vicious. As time went by it
+    lost much of its wildness and to those it liked was
+    affectionate and friendly. To all others it presented variable
+    moods, sometimes friendly and sometimes unexpectedly and
+    unreasonably hostile. We feared that Little Wanderobo Dog would
+    have some bad moments with the little Tana River monkey, and
+    their first meeting was awaited with keen interest. We thought
+    the monkey would scratch all the gentleness out of the Little
+    Wanderobo Dog's eyes and that the two animals would become
+    bitter enemies.</p>
+
+    <p>But nothing of the sort happened. Little Wanderobo Dog
+    managed the matter with rare tact. He succeeded in slowly
+    overcoming the monkey's prejudices, then in inspiring
+    confidence, and finally in establishing play relations. It was
+    worth a good deal to see the dog and monkey playing together,
+    the latter scampering down from his tent-pole aery, leaping on
+    the dog, and scampering hurriedly over the latter, with a quick
+    retreat to the invulnerable heights of the tent-pole. Little
+    Wanderobo Dog would allow the monkey to roam at will over his
+    features and anatomy, thereby showing tolerance which I thought
+    impossible for any animal to show. After Little Wanderobo Dog
+    had paid his devoirs to his host, which he did each day with
+    great punctiliousness, he would then retire to some sunny spot
+    and enjoy his siesta. He was great on siestas and usually had
+    several each day.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p225.png"><img src="images/p225s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Entente Cordiale]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Entente Cordiale</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In time he learned to distinguish between Mohammedans and
+    other dark-complexioned people and held himself aloof from the
+    former, thereby escaping any humiliating races with the heavy
+    boots of the gunbearers and other followers of Allah. He made
+    friends with little Ali, the monkey's valet, a small Swahili
+    boy who looked like a chocolate drop in color, and like a
+    tooth-powder ad in disposition. It was Ali's duty to carry the
+    monkey on our marches.</p>
+
+    <p>The little gray monkey, with its venerable looking black
+    face fringed with a sunburst of white hair, would be tied to an
+    old umbrella of the Sairey Gamp pattern, and would sit upon it
+    as the small boy carried it along the trails on his shoulder,
+    like a musket. Sometimes when the sun was strong the umbrella
+    would be raised to shield the monkey's eyes, which could not
+    stand the fierce glare incident to a long march upon sun-baked
+    trails. At such times the monkey, who rejoiced in the brief
+    name of J.T. Jr.&mdash;the same being emblazoned on the little
+    silver collar around its neck&mdash;at such times the monkey would
+    scamper from shoulder to shoulder of the small boy, with
+    occasional excursions up in the woolly kinks of the heights
+    above. It was a funny picture and one that never failed to
+    amuse those who watched it.</p>
+
+    <p>Well, Little Wanderobo Dog, by some prescient instinct
+    hardly to be expected in one brought up in a swamp, decided
+    that little Ali and the monkey were to be his "companions of
+    the march." So, when the tents were struck and Abdi, the
+    head-man, shouted "<em>Funga nizigo yaka!</em>" and the tented
+    city of yesterday became a scattered heap of sixty-pound
+    porters' loads, Little Wanderobo would seek out Ali and prepare
+    to bear him company during the long stretches of the march. And
+    then when the long line of horsemen, native soldiers, porters,
+    tent boys, gunbearers, ox gharries, and all began to wind their
+    sinuous way over veldt or through forest, there was none in the
+    line more picturesque than Ali and J.T. Jr. surrounded by the
+    affable Little Wanderobo Dog.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0715.jpg"><img src="images/img0715s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Being Posed for a Post Mortem Picture]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Being Posed for a Post Mortem Picture</p><a href=
+      "images/img0619.jpg"><img src="images/img0619s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Triumvirate]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Triumvirate</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p227.png"><img src="images/p227s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Three Comrades]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Three Comrades</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It is little wonder that friendship soon ripened into love,
+    and that we all became speedily and irrevocably attached to the
+    little swamp angel. His presence in any gathering was like a
+    benediction of good cheer, and when his tail was in full swing
+    he looked like a golden jubilee. As I say, it was no wonder we
+    liked him, and I think I may also say, without flattering
+    ourselves, that the sentiment was reciprocated. I don't believe
+    the joy he showed at all times could have been assumed. It must
+    have been pure joy, without alloy.</p>
+
+    <p>His table manners were above reproach. He would, never grab
+    or show unseemly greed. He awaited our pleasure and each bone
+    or chop that fell his way was received with every token of mute
+    but eloquent gratitude. You were constantly made to feel that
+    he loved you for yourself and not for what he hoped you would
+    give him. If I were to be wrecked on a desert island, I believe
+    there is hardly more than one person that I'd prefer to have as
+    my sole companion than Little Wanderobo Dog.</p>
+
+    <p>Perhaps a few words about the architecture of the little dog
+    might not come amiss. He was built somewhat on the lines of the
+    German renaissance, being low and rakish like a dachshund, but
+    with just a little more freeboard than the dachshund. His legs
+    were straight instead of bowed, as are those of his
+    distinguished German cousin. His ears were hardly as pendulous,
+    being rather more trenchant than pendulous, and therefore more
+    mobile in action. His tail was facile and retrouss&eacute;,
+    with a lateral swing of about a foot and an indicated speed of
+    seventeen hundred to the minute. When you add to these many
+    charms, those mild eyes, surcharged with love light, and a bark
+    as sweet as the bark of the frangipanni tree and as cheerful as
+    the song of the meadow-lark, you may realize some of the
+    estimable qualities that distinguished Little Wanderobo
+    Dog.</p>
+
+    <p>For some weeks he stayed with us, Tray-like in his
+    faithfulness, and always in the vanguard when danger threatened
+    the rear. One day our caravan passed through a group of
+    migrating Wanderobos. There were a dozen or so of men, all
+    armed with spears and bows and arrows; also fifteen or twenty
+    women, thirty or forty <em>totos</em>, and about a score of
+    dogs.</p>
+
+    <p>Here was the test. Would Little Wanderobo Dog, reclaimed
+    from the swamp, harken to the call of the blood and join the
+    band of his own kind? If he did, we could only bow our heads in
+    grief and submission, for after all were not we only foster
+    friends and not blood relations? But Little Wanderobo Dog never
+    wavered in his allegiance to us. He had planted his lance by
+    our colors and with these he would stick till death.</p>
+
+    <p>He passed those other Wanderobo dogs as if they were
+    creatures from another world. If he felt tempted to join his
+    fellow dogs, there was no indication of it, and at night when
+    we reached our camp we found our faithful follower at his
+    accustomed post, stanch, firm and true to his colors, which
+    were black and tan.</p>
+
+    <p>But alas, there comes a time when the best of friends must
+    part. And the dark day came when I saw Little Wanderobo Dog for
+    the last time. It was at Escarpment. Our long months of hunting
+    were over. Our horses and porters and all our equipment were on
+    the train bound for Nairobi, where we were to settle our
+    affairs and leave Africa and its happy hunting ground. Little
+    Wanderobo Dog had been let out of his first-class compartment
+    in the train and was running up and down the platform,
+    wigwagging messages of gladness with his tail and sniffing
+    friends and strangers with dog-like curiosity. Some friends of
+    ours were at the train to say howdy-do and to shake our hands,
+    and with these the little dog was soon on friendly terms.</p>
+
+    <p>When the train whistle blew and the bell was rung and some
+    more whistles blew and more bells were rung, Little Wanderobo
+    Dog was taken back into his car. The last good-bys were said
+    and we were off for Nairobi. Suddenly there was a startled cry,
+    a whisk of a tail, and the dog was gone&mdash;out of the car window.
+    He lit on his nose, but as far back as we could see he sat in
+    the middle of the next track and gazed at the receding train.
+    Two days later Mrs. Tarlton came down from Escarpment and said
+    that she had rescued the dog and that he was installed in the
+    hospitable home of Mrs. Hampson, where he would remain until he
+    rejoined those members of our party who were to remain in
+    Africa some months longer. It is likely that Little Wanderobo
+    Dog may be taken on a great elephant hunt in Uganda and, who
+    knows, some time he may visit America. I hope so, for I'd like
+    to give him a dinner.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p231.png"><img src="images/p231s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Our Last View]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Our Last View</em></p>
+    </div>
+  </div><a name="XIV" id="XIV"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+
+    <h3>WHO'S WHO IN JUNGLELAND. THE HARTEBEEST AND THE WILDEBEEST,
+    THE AMUSING GIRAFFE AND THE UBIQUITOUS ZEBRA, THE LOVELY
+    GAZELLE AND THE GENTLE IMPALLA</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">In</span> the course of the average
+    shooting experience in British East Africa the sportsman is
+    likely to see between twenty and thirty different species of
+    animals. From the windows of the car as he journeys from
+    Mombasa to Nairobi, three hundred and twenty-seven miles, he
+    may definitely count upon seeing at least seven of these
+    species: Wildebeest, hartebeest, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's
+    gazelle, zebra, impalla, and giraffe, with the likelihood of
+    seeing in addition some wart-hogs and a distant rhinoceros, and
+    the remote possibility of seeing cheetah, lion, and hyena. Of
+    the bird varieties the traveler will be sure of seeing many
+    ostriches, some giant bustards, and perhaps a sedate
+    secretary-bird or two.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0717.jpg"><img src="images/img0717s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Hassan and a Hartebeest]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Hassan and a Hartebeest</p><a href=
+      "images/img0621a.jpg"><img src="images/img0621as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Author's Home in Africa]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Author's Home in Africa</p><a href=
+      "images/img0621b.jpg"><img src="images/img0621bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Beautiful Upland Country]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Beautiful Upland Country</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>These animals are the common varieties, and after a short
+    time in the country the stranger learns to tell them apart. He
+    knows the zebra from his previous observation in circuses; he
+    also does not have to be told what the giraffe is, but the
+    other ones of the seven common varieties he must learn, for
+    most of them are utterly strange to an American eye.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p233.png"><img src="images/p233s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Gazelle, with Wildebeest in Background]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Gazelle, with Wildebeest in Background</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>He soon learns to pick out the wildebeest, or gnu, by its
+    American buffalo appearance; he comes to know the little
+    Thompson's gazelle by its big black stripe on its white sides
+    and by its frisky tail that is always flirting back and forth.
+    The Grant's gazelle is a little harder to pick out at first,
+    and one is likely to get the Grant's and Tommy's confused. But
+    after a short time the difference is apparent, the Grant's
+    being much larger in stature and has much larger horns and is
+    minus the Thompsonian perpetual motion tail. It certainly is a
+    stirring tail! The impalla is about the same size as the
+    Grant's gazelle, but has horns of a lyrate shape.</p>
+
+    <p>The hartebeest is speedily identified, because he is unlike
+    any other antelope in appearance and exists in such large
+    numbers in nearly every part of East Africa. Indeed, if a
+    returned traveler were asked what animal is most typical of the
+    country he would at once name the hartebeest. He sees it so
+    much and so often that after a time it seems to be only a
+    necessary fixture in the landscape. A horizon without a few
+    hartebeests on it would seem to be lacking in completeness.</p>
+
+    <p>Furthermore, the stranger soon learns that the hartebeest is
+    commonly called by its native name, kongoni, and by the time
+    his shooting trip is over the sight of the ubiquitous kongoni
+    has become as much of his daily experience as the sight of his
+    tent or his breakfast table. To me the kongoni appealed most
+    strongly because of his droll appearance and because of a
+    many-sided character that stirs one's imagination.</p>
+
+    <p>He is big and awkward in appearance and action; his face is
+    long and thin and always seems to wear a quizzical look of good
+    humor, as if he were amused at something. Others besides myself
+    have remarked upon this, so I am hoping that the kongoni wore
+    this amused look even at times when he was not looking at me.
+    His long, rakish horns are mounted on a pedicle that extends
+    above his head, thus accentuating the droll length of his
+    features. His withers are unusually high and add to the awkward
+    appearance of the animal. Standing, the kongoni is a picture of
+    alert, interested good humor; running, he is extremely funny,
+    as he bounces along on legs that seem to be stiffened so that
+    he appears to rise and fall in his stride like a huge rubber
+    ball. We made quite a study of the kongoni, for he is a most
+    interesting animal. He is unselfish and vigilant in protecting
+    the other creatures of the plain. His eyes are as keen as those
+    of a hawk, and when a herd is feeding there are always several
+    kongoni sentinels posted on ant-hills in such a strategic way
+    that not a thing moves anywhere on the plains that escapes
+    their attention. Oftentimes I have cautiously crept to the top
+    of a ridge to scan the plains, and there, a mile away, a
+    kongoni would be looking at me with great interest.</p>
+
+    <p>If you try to approach he will remain where he is until his
+    warning sneezes have alarmed all the other animals, and
+    finally, when all have fled, he goes gallumphing along in the
+    rear. He is the self-appointed protector of his fellow
+    creatures, the sentinel of the plains. I have seen him run back
+    into danger in order to alarm a herd of unsuspecting
+    zebras.</p>
+
+    <p>He leads the wildebeests to water and he lends his eyes to
+    the elephants as they feed. With nearly every herd of game, or
+    near by, will be found the faithful kongoni, always alert,
+    watchful, and vigilant, and it is nearly always his cry of
+    warning that sends the beasts of the plains flying from dangers
+    that they can not see.</p>
+
+    <p>The sportsman swears at the kongoni because it so often
+    alarms the quarry he is stalking. How very often it happens!
+    The hunter sees afar some trophy that he is eager to secure and
+    straightway begins a careful stalk of many hundred yards. At
+    last, after much patient work, he reaches a point where he
+    feels that he can chance a shot. He takes a careful sight and
+    at that moment a kongoni that has been silently watching him
+    from some place or other gives the alarm, and away goes the
+    trophy beyond reach of a bullet. And then how the hunter curses
+    at the kongoni, who has stopped some little distance away and
+    is regarding him with that quaint, lugubriously funny look. It
+    almost seems to be laughing at him.</p>
+
+    <p>One day I tried to shoot a topi. It was a broiling hot day
+    and the sun hung dead above and drove its burning javelins into
+    me as I crept along. For seven hundred yards, on hands and
+    knees, I slowly and painfully made my way. The grass wore
+    through the knees of my trousers and the sharp stubbles cut my
+    palms; once a snake darted out of a clump of grass just as my
+    hand was descending upon it, and lizards frequently shot away
+    within a yard of my nose. My neck was nearly broken from
+    looking forward while on my hands and knees, and it was nearly
+    an hour of creeping progress that I spent while stalking that
+    topi.</p>
+
+    <p>When I got within two hundred and fifty yards, and was just
+    ready to take a careful aim, with an ant-hill as a rest, a
+    kongoni somewhere gave the alarm, and away went the topi, safe
+    and sound but badly scared. The kongoni went a little way off
+    and then turned and grinned broadly. I was momentarily tempted
+    to shoot him, but on second thought I realized that he had
+    acted nobly from the animal point of view, so I forgave
+    him.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p237.png"><img src="images/p237s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Outward Bound&mdash;Reading Your Thoughts&mdash;Concluding your Intentions Are Hostile]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Outward Bound&mdash;Reading Your Thoughts&mdash;Concluding your
+      Intentions Are Hostile</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The kongoni seems to be gifted with a clairvoyant instinct.
+    He knows when you don't want to shoot him and when you do. If
+    you start out in the morning with no hostile intentions toward
+    him he will allow you to approach to within a short distance.
+    He will be alert and watchful, but he will show no anxiety. But
+    just suppose for an instant that you change your mind. Suppose
+    you say to yourself that the porters have had no meat for
+    several days and that it might be well to shoot a kongoni. The
+    latter knows what is passing in your mind long before you have
+    made a single movement to betray your intentions. He begins to
+    edge away, ready in an instant to go bounding rapidly beyond
+    rifle shot.</p>
+
+    <p>I've seen a herd of kongoni standing quite near, watching me
+    with curious interest, but without fear. Perhaps I was intent
+    upon something else and hardly noticed them. Suddenly a
+    villainous thought might enter my head, such as "That big
+    kongoni has enormous horns," and instantly the herd would prick
+    up their ears, run a few steps, and then turn to verify their
+    suspicions. Then, if the villainous thought still lurked in my
+    brain, they would sneeze shrilly and go galloping away in the
+    distance. There is no way to explain this except to attribute
+    it to thought transference, and this in spite of the fact that
+    the kongoni doesn't understand English.</p>
+
+    <p>The kongoni is found nearly every place in East Africa.
+    Along the railway between Makindu and Nairobi the species is
+    called Coke's hartebeest. Farther up the railway the species is
+    Neumann's hartebeest, while still beyond, on the Guas Ngishu
+    Plateau and the Mau escarpment, the species is called Jackson's
+    hartebeest. In the main the three varieties are almost the
+    same; it is in the horns that the chief distinction lies, with
+    lesser differences in color and stature. The hunter has been
+    allowed to kill ten of each on his license, but under the new
+    game ordinance in force since December, 1909, only four
+    Jackson's are allowed and twenty Coke's instead of ten.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p239.png"><img src="images/p239s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Young Kongoni Is Very Funny]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Young Kongoni Is Very Funny</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>When we went across the Guas Ngishu Plateau in early
+    November we saw thousands of Jackson's hartebeest, and never a
+    calf. When we came back in late December and early January we
+    saw hundreds and hundreds of calves, many of them less than a
+    day old. The stork must have been busy, for they all arrived at
+    once. These little calves come into the world fully equipped
+    for running, and almost immediately after birth go bounding
+    along after their mothers, so awkward and so funny that I'm not
+    surprised that their own mothers look perpetually amused.</p>
+
+    <p>The hartebeest, or kongoni, is hard to kill. The Dutch gave
+    him the name for that reason. It often seems as if bullets have
+    no effect on him. He will absorb lead without losing a trace of
+    his good-humored look, and after he has been shot several times
+    he will go bounding earnestly away, as if nothing was the
+    matter. If he succeeds in joining a herd there is little way of
+    distinguishing which one has been shot, unless he suddenly
+    exhibits signs or falls over. Otherwise he is quite likely to
+    gallop away, far beyond pursuit, and then slowly succumb to his
+    wounds.</p>
+
+    <p>Again I've seen them knocked over and lie as if dead, but
+    before one could approach they would be up and off as good as
+    ever. This is the great tragedy of the conscientious hunter's
+    life&mdash;the escape of a wounded animal beyond pursuit&mdash;and the
+    thought of it is one that keeps him awake at night with a
+    remorseful heart and saddened thoughts. Whenever I shall think
+    of Africa in the future, I shall think of my old friend, the
+    kongoni, dotting the landscape and sticking his inquiring ears
+    over various spots on the horizon. In four and a half months I
+    think I must have seen at least a hundred thousand kongoni.</p>
+
+    <p>The giraffe is also a creature of most amusing actions. You
+    are pretty certain to see a bunch of them as you come up the
+    railway from the coast. They were the first wild animals I saw
+    in British East Africa&mdash;a group of four or five quietly feeding
+    within only a hundred yards of the thundering railway engine.
+    They were in the protected area, however, and seemed to know
+    that no harm would reach them there. Later on in the morning we
+    saw other herds, but invariably at long range, sometimes
+    teetering along the sky line or appearing and disappearing
+    behind the flat-topped umbrella acacias.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p241.png"><img src="images/p241s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: They Run Loosely but Earnestly]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>They Run Loosely but Earnestly</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The giraffe is most laughable when in action. He first looks
+    at you, then curls his tail over his back, and then lopes off
+    with head and neck stuck out, and with body and legs slowly
+    folding and unfolding in a most ungainly stride. It is hard to
+    describe the gait of a giraffe to one who has never seen it,
+    but any one would at once know without being told that a
+    giraffe couldn't help being funny when running.</p>
+
+    <p>As a general thing it is difficult to approach a giraffe.
+    With their keen eyes and great height they almost invariably
+    see you before you see them, and that will be at seven or eight
+    hundred yards' distance. From the moment they see you they
+    never lose sight of you unless it is when they disappear behind
+    a hill a mile or two away.</p>
+
+    <p>When seen on the sky-line a herd of giraffe will suggest a
+    line of telegraph poles; when seen scattered along a hillside,
+    partly sheltered under the trees, they blend into the mottled
+    lights and shadows in such a way as to be almost invisible. I
+    have been within two hundred yards of a motionless giraffe and,
+    although looking directly at it, was not aware that it was a
+    giraffe until it moved. It might easily have been mistaken for
+    a bare fork of the tree, with the mottled shadows of the leaves
+    cast upon it.</p>
+
+    <p>Along the Tana River I saw several herds of giraffe, perhaps
+    fifty head in all, but it was on the great stretches of the
+    scrub country that slopes down from Mount Elgon that I saw the
+    great herds of them. One afternoon I saw twenty-nine together,
+    big black males, beautifully marked tawny females, and lots of
+    little ones that loomed up like lamp posts amidst a group of
+    telegraph poles. Within two hours I saw two other herds of
+    seven and nine each, and every day thereafter it was quite a
+    common thing to run across groups of these strange-looking
+    animals browsing among the trees.</p>
+
+    <p>One is not allowed to kill a giraffe except under a special
+    license, which costs one hundred and fifty rupees, or fifty
+    dollars. One of our party had a commission to secure a specimen
+    for a collector and had been unsuccessful in getting it. That
+    circumstance led to an amusing adventure that I had with a
+    giant giraffe. One day, with my gunbearers, I had ridden out
+    from camp in search of wild pigs. Ten minutes after leaving
+    camp I drew rein hastily, for off to my left and in front a
+    lone giraffe of great size and of splendid black color was
+    slowly careening along toward me. If he continued in his course
+    and did not see us he would pass within a hundred yards of me.
+    So I hastily but quietly dismounted to try for a photograph as
+    he passed.</p>
+
+    <p>A moment or two later he saw me for the first time and at
+    once swung into a funny trot. I took the picture, and then the
+    thought struck me, "Why not drive him into camp, where he could
+    be secured by the one having a special license?" I jumped on my
+    horse and galloped around him, but in a few moments struck a
+    ravine so rocky that I had to walk my horse through the worst
+    of it. By the time I had crossed the giraffe was some hundred
+    yards ahead. Still farther ahead the prairie was burning and
+    the long line of fire extended a mile or more across our
+    front.</p>
+
+    <p>I thought this fire would swing the giraffe off, and so it
+    became a race to reach the fire line first, in order to swing
+    him in the right direction. The ground was deep with prairie
+    grass, as dry as tinder, and scattered throughout were
+    innumerable holes in the ground made by the ant-bears and
+    wart-hogs. Any one of these holes was enough to throw a horse
+    head over heels if he went into it. I had no gun, having left
+    it with my gunbearer when I took the picture. So there was
+    nothing to hinder me as we swept across the great plain.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed the camp half a mile away at a furious pace, the
+    giraffe holding his own with the horse and keeping too far in
+    front to be turned. By degrees we approached the prairie fire
+    and the flames were leaping up three or four feet in a line
+    many hundred yards long. The giraffe hesitated and then
+    breasted the walls of fire; I didn't know whether my horse
+    would take the salamander leap or not, and as we rushed down
+    toward it I half-expected that he would stop suddenly and send
+    me flying over his shoulders. But he never wavered. The
+    excitement of the chase was upon him and he took the leap like
+    an antelope. There was a moment of blinding smoke, a burning
+    blast of air, and then we were galloping madly on across the
+    blackened dust where the fire had already swept.</p>
+
+    <p>For two miles I galloped the giraffe, vainly endeavoring to
+    swing him around, but once a swamp retarded me and another time
+    a low hill shut the giraffe from view. When I passed the hill
+    he had disappeared and could not be found again. There was no
+    deep regret at having lost him, for I felt particularly
+    grateful to him for having given me the most exhilarating and
+    the most joyous ride I had in Africa.</p>
+
+    <p>The large male giraffes often appear solid black at a
+    distance, for the yellow bands separating the splotches of
+    black are so slender as to be invisible at even a short
+    distance. The females are much lighter and usually look like
+    the giraffes we see in the circuses at home.</p>
+
+    <p>Then there's the ubiquitous zebra, almost as numerous as the
+    kongoni. You see vast herds of zebra at many places along the
+    railway, and thereafter, as you roam about the level spots of
+    East Africa, you are always running into herds of them. At
+    first, the sight of a herd of zebras is a surprise, for you
+    have been accustomed to seeing them in the small numbers found
+    in captivity. It is a source of passing wonder that these rare
+    animals should be roaming about the suburbs of towns in hundred
+    lots. You decide that it would be a shame to shoot a zebra and
+    determine not to join in this heartless slaughter.</p>
+
+    <p>Later on your sentiments will undergo a change. Everybody
+    will tell you that the zebra is a fearful pest and must be
+    exterminated if civilization and progress are to continue. The
+    zebra is absolutely useless and efforts to domesticate him have
+    been without good results. He tramps over the plains, breaks
+    down fences, tears up the cultivated fields, and really
+    fulfills no mission in life save that of supplying the lions
+    with food. As long as the zebras stay the lions will be there,
+    but the settlers say that the lions are even preferable to the
+    zebras.</p>
+
+    <p>Under the old game ordinance expiring December fifteenth,
+    1909, a sportsman was allowed two zebras under his license;
+    under the new one he is allowed twenty! That reveals the
+    attitude of East Africa toward the jaunty little striped
+    pony.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p246.png"><img src="images/p246s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Zebra, Wildebeest and Gazelle (Wildebeest in Middle)]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Zebra, Wildebeest and Gazelle (Wildebeest in
+      Middle)</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In action the zebra is dependent upon his friend, the
+    kongoni. When the latter signals him to run, he trots off and
+    then turns to look. If the kongoni sends out a 4-11 alarm, the
+    zebra will hike off in a Shetland-pony-like gallop and run some
+    distance before stopping. They have no endurance and may be
+    easily rounded up with a horse.</p>
+
+    <p>On the Athi Plains may be found the bones of scores of
+    zebras, each spot marking where a lion has fed; and in the
+    barb-wire fences of the settlers other scores of withered hides
+    and whitened skulls mark where they have fallen before the grim
+    march of civilization.</p>
+
+    <p>With each sportsman granted an allowance of twenty zebras,
+    it may not be so long before the zebra will be forced to seek
+    the sanctuary of the game reserves, which, happily, are large
+    enough to insure his escape from extinction.</p>
+
+    <p>The zebra's chief peculiarity, aside from his beautiful
+    markings, is a dog-like bark which is much more canine than
+    equine in its sound. The zebra's chief charm is its colt, for
+    there is nothing alive that is prettier or more graceful than a
+    young zebra a few weeks old.</p>
+
+    <p>The only Grant's gazelles that I saw were those along the
+    railway at Kapiti Plains and Athi Plains. This animal is
+    graceful and beautiful, with a splendid sweep of horns. With
+    them, and in much greater numbers, is the little "Tommy," or
+    Thompson's gazelle, a graceful, buoyant, happy, bounding little
+    antelope with an ever active tail flirting gaily in the
+    sunshine. The Tommy is small, about twice as big as a fox
+    terrier, and is of a fawn color. Along the lower parts of his
+    sides is a broad white belt, along the middle of which runs a
+    bold black stripe. The effect is strikingly handsome.</p>
+
+    <p>The impalla is much bigger than the Tommy, and he usually
+    travels in large herds of fifty or more. It is no uncommon
+    sight to see one buck with twenty or thirty females, and it is
+    probably due to the fact that hunters try to get the male
+    specimens as trophies that accounts for the vast preponderance
+    of females in the various antelope herds. The impalla is seen
+    along the railroad and in enormous numbers out along the Thika
+    Thika and Tana Rivers. There are also many up in the Rift
+    Valley and doubtless in other sections. From my own experience
+    and observation they were most abundant on the Tana River.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p248.png"><img src="images/p248s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Impalla Buck and Lady Friends]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Impalla Buck and Lady Friends</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The wildebeest, or gnu, is found on the Athi Plains and
+    northward along the Athi River and the Thika Thika. One need
+    never travel more than two hours' drive or walk from Nairobi to
+    see wildebeest, but it's a different thing to get them. You
+    would have to travel many hours, most likely, before you
+    succeeded in bringing down a wildebeest.</p>
+
+    <p>My first shot in Africa was at a wildebeest at three hundred
+    yards. The bullet struck, but so did the wildebeest. He struck
+    out for northern Africa, and when last seen was still headed
+    earnestly for the north pole. I am consoled in thinking that my
+    shot must have inflicted more surprise than injury and so I
+    hope he has now fully recovered, wilder and beastier than of
+    yore.</p>
+
+    <p>My last shot in Africa, the day before leaving for the
+    coast, was at a wildebeest an hour or so out of Nairobi. This
+    time I missed entirely and repeatedly and the wildebeest
+    remains unscathed to roam the broad plains of the Athi until
+    some better or luckier shot passes his way. If I have anything
+    on my conscience, it is certainly not the remorse of having
+    reduced the supply of wildebeests.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p249.png"><img src="images/p249s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Wildebeest With the White Man Only Eight Miles Away]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Wildebeest With the White Man Only Eight Miles
+      Away</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In our last few days' shooting out on the Athi Plains we saw
+    perhaps fifty or seventy-five of these great bison-like
+    animals. Their bodies and legs and tails are slender and
+    graceful, like those of a horse, but the heads are
+    heavy-featured, heavy-horned and heavy-bearded. They are wild
+    and when they see you a mile or so away will start and run for
+    the nearest vanishing point, usually arriving there long before
+    you do.</p>
+
+    <p>The foregoing seven species of animals are the ones most
+    commonly seen in East Africa. Perhaps something about some of
+    the less common ones will have some instructive value.</p>
+  </div><a name="XV" id="XV"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XV</h2>
+
+    <h3>SOME NATURAL HISTORY IN WHICH IT IS REVEALED THAT A
+    SING-SING WATERBUCK IS NOT A SINGING TOPI, AND THAT A TOPI IS
+    NOT A SPECIES OF HEAD-DRESS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">While</span> reading an account of the
+    trophies secured by Colonel Roosevelt on the Guas Ngishu
+    Plateau, I was mystified by seeing the name of an animal I had
+    never heard tell of&mdash;a singing topi. For a time I puzzled over
+    this strange creature and finally evolved a satisfactory
+    explanation of how the animal made its appearance in the
+    despatches. Briefly, "there haint no sich animal," as the old
+    farmer said when he saw his first dromedary in a circus; it was
+    merely a mistake, due to the telegraphic abbreviations which
+    foreign correspondents employ to save cable tolls.</p>
+
+    <p>What the correspondent meant to say was that the colonel had
+    secured a sing-sing waterbuck <em>and</em> a topi. The word
+    "waterbuck" was omitted because he assumed that everybody at
+    home would know that a "sing-sing" was a species of waterbuck,
+    wherein he was mistaken, for comparatively few people in
+    America know what a sing-sing is, or, for that matter, what a
+    topi is, or what a Uganda cob is. When his despatch had been
+    transmitted through several operators on its way to the States
+    the word "sing-sing" became "singing" and was supposed to be an
+    adjective describing the topi. Hence the "singing topi."</p>
+
+    <p>The American paragraphers also had fun with the word "topi,"
+    for they thought a topi was a sun hat much worn in the hot
+    countries. From this course of reasoning it was probably
+    assumed that Colonel Roosevelt had shot some kind of a singing
+    sun hat, which was certainly enough to cause comment.</p>
+
+    <p>There are two kinds of waterbuck that the East African
+    hunter will find in the course of his travels, the common
+    waterbuck which we saw in such numbers on the Tana River, and
+    the Defassa, or "sing-sing" waterbuck, which is found in the
+    higher altitudes up toward the Mau escarpment and Mount Elgon.
+    Both of these varieties of waterbuck are beautiful animals,
+    almost as large as a steer, and with great sweeping horns that
+    often exceed twenty-five inches in length. In some instances
+    the horns have been nearly three feet long, but the longest one
+    that our party secured was only twenty-nine inches in length.
+    As a trophy for a wall there are few heads in Africa more noble
+    than that of the waterbuck.</p>
+
+    <p>In all our wanderings, during which we saw at least two
+    thousand waterbuck, we found that the does outnumbered the
+    males by ten to one and that usually in a herd of twenty there
+    would be only one big male and one or two smaller ones. We also
+    never saw them in water, but usually not a great distance from
+    a marsh or stream. They were much shier than the hartebeest and
+    zebra, and upon seeing our approach would be the first to run
+    away. And by a curious chance the does seemed to know that it
+    was the buck only that was in danger. They would often turn to
+    watch us, while the buck himself would keep on running until he
+    had put many hundreds of yards between himself and the
+    threatened danger. Then, and then only, would he turn to watch,
+    and it usually required careful stalking to get within gunshot
+    of him again.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p253.png"><img src="images/p253s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Waterbuck]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Waterbuck</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The doe is not pretty, being thickly and clumsily built,
+    with a heavy, ungraceful neck, but the buck is like a painting
+    by Landseer, noble, graceful, and beautifully marked with white
+    and black on his dark gray coat.</p>
+
+    <p>We didn't kill many waterbuck, because there is no excuse
+    for doing so except to secure the heads as trophies. The meat
+    is so coarse and tough that even the porters, who seldom draw
+    the line at eating anything their teeth can penetrate, do not
+    care for waterbuck meat except under the stress of great
+    hunger. They do like the skin, however, for it is of the
+    waterbuck skin that their best sandals are made. Consequently,
+    when a waterbuck is killed there is a fierce scramble among the
+    porters to secure portions of the hide for this purpose.</p>
+
+    <p>The male waterbucks are savage fighters among themselves,
+    and it was not uncommon to see big bulls with one horn gone or
+    with both horns badly broken or marred as a result of the
+    jealous struggle for dominance of a herd of does.</p>
+
+    <p>The topi is something like the hartebeest, but much more
+    beautiful and much more rare. It is over four feet high, with
+    skin of a dark reddish brown, with a silklike bluish gray
+    gloss. On the shoulders and thighs are bluish black patches and
+    the forehead and nose are blackish brown. The under parts are
+    bright cinnamon. We ran across this beautiful antelope only on
+    the Guas Ngishu Plateau, although it is found in one or two
+    other districts in East Africa. In all our weeks of rambling on
+    the high plains near Mount Elgon I think I saw several hundred
+    head of topi, always shy and quick to take alarm.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0719.jpg"><img src="images/img0719s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Uganda Cob]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Uganda Cob</p><a href="images/img0623.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0623s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By Courtesy of W.D. Boyce The Lordly Eland]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Lordly Eland</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The meat is the most delicious of any of the large
+    antelopes, and the skin, when properly cared for, is as soft as
+    kid and as brilliant as watered silk. The head is a fine trophy
+    on account of its rich coloring rather than because of its
+    horns, which are not particularly graceful in curve or
+    proportion, but which are wonderfully ridged.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p255.png"><img src="images/p255s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Topi]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Topi</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>I am sure that if I were a beautiful topi with a skin like
+    watered silk I should be deeply humiliated to be mistaken for a
+    singing sun hat.</p>
+
+    <p>The topi's nearest relations are the sasseby, the tiang, and
+    the korrigum. And now you know all about the topi. The game
+    ordinance allows the sportsman to kill two topi, and the holder
+    of a license will work hard to get his two, for they are
+    splendid trophies.</p>
+
+    <p>The duiker is another little antelope that one meets
+    frequently in the grassy places of East Africa. It is small,
+    with dark complexion, and goes through the high grass in a way
+    that strongly suggests the diving of a porpoise at sea. In
+    fact, it gets its Dutch name for that reason, <em>duiker
+    bok</em>, meaning "diving buck" in Dutch. There are a dozen or
+    more different species of duikers, and they may be found
+    scattered all over South and East Africa. They are difficult to
+    shoot, for their diving habits make them a fleeting target;
+    also their size, about twenty or thirty pounds in weight, makes
+    them a small target.</p>
+
+    <p>Quite often the little duiker will hide in the grass until
+    you have almost stepped on him, and then, if he considers
+    discovery inevitable, he will spring away with his little
+    huddled-up back rising and disappearing over the grass exactly
+    as the porpoise does in the water. One day while we were
+    beating some tall grass for lions, one of the porters stepped
+    on a duiker, and its sharp horns, twisting suddenly, cut him on
+    the ankle. The horns of the bucks are short and straight, from
+    four to six inches long, but most often about four and a half
+    inches.</p>
+
+    <p>It would take an expert mathematician to keep track of all
+    the different kinds of duikers, for there's the crowned duiker,
+    the yellow-backed duiker, the red duiker, Jentink's duiker,
+    Abbott's duiker, the Ituri red duiker, the black-faced duiker,
+    Alexander's duiker, the Ruddy duiker, Weyn's duiker, Johnston's
+    duiker, Isaac's duiker, Harvey's duiker, Roberts' duiker,
+    Leopold's duiker, the white-bellied duiker, the bay duiker, the
+    chestnut duiker, the white-lipped duiker, Ogilby's duiker,
+    Brooke's duiker, Peter's duiker, the red-flanked duiker, the
+    banded duiker, Walker's duiker, the white-faced duiker, the
+    black duiker, Maxwell's duiker, the black-rumped duiker, the
+    Uganda duiker, the blue duiker, the Nyasa duiker, Heck's
+    duiker, the Urori duiker, Erwin's duiker, and I suppose a lot
+    more that the naturalists have not had time to catalogue.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p257.png"><img src="images/p257s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Like a Popular Cemetery]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Like a Popular Cemetery</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>One would assume that with all these duikers there would
+    hardly be room left in Africa for any other animals. But there
+    is. For instance, there's the oribi and the dik-dik, to say
+    nothing of the steinbuck and the klipspringer. The last named
+    is a rock-jumping antelope, the others little grass antelopes,
+    and all of them are as pretty and cute as animals can be. They
+    are all small, the dik-dik being scarcely larger than a rabbit,
+    and they are divided into as many subspecies as the duiker. A
+    list of the different kinds of oribi would take up several
+    lines of valuable space without conveying any illuminating
+    intelligence to the lay mind.</p>
+
+    <p>We found thousands of oribi on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. You
+    couldn't go half a mile in any direction without stirring up
+    large family parties of them, and a landscape looked lonely
+    unless one could see a few oribi bounding over the ant-hills or
+    rising and falling as they leaped through the grass. When we
+    first went into the plateau the grass was long and the oribi
+    were for the most part fleeting streaks of yellow over the tops
+    of it, but later when we came out the grass had been burned and
+    the young, tender grass had spread a green carpet over the
+    plains. Then the oribi were visible everywhere, usually in
+    groups of four or six. Also the mamma oribis had given birth to
+    bouncing baby oribis, and the sight of the little ones was most
+    pleasing to the eyes.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p258.png"><img src="images/p258s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Mamma and the Little One]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Mamma and the Little One</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>One day I was hot on the trail of a big waterbuck. The grass
+    was deep at that part of the plateau and I was pushing rapidly
+    through it. Suddenly one of my gunbearers, who was behind,
+    called out and pointed to something in the grass. I hurried
+    back, and there lay a little oribi only a few hours old and
+    with big, wondering eyes that looked gravely up at me as I bent
+    over it. It was plenty old enough to run and could easily have
+    leaped away, but there it lay as tight as if nothing in the
+    world could make it budge.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0721.jpg"><img src="images/img0721s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Museum Specimen Must Be Preserved Entire]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Museum Specimen Must Be Preserved Entire</p><a href=
+      "images/img0625.jpg"><img src="images/img0625s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Eland Is the Largest of the African Antelopes]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Eland Is the Largest of the African Antelopes</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The whole thing was as plain as could be. It was acting
+    under instructions. I could almost hear the mother of the oribi
+    tell the little one when it heard us coming to lay perfectly
+    quiet and not to move the least bit until she came back. Then
+    mamma hurried away to cover. The little oribi remembered his
+    instructions and followed them out to the letter. Its mamma had
+    told it not to move and it hadn't. We looked at it a little
+    while and then said good-by and went our way. Some place near
+    by an anxious mother oribi was watching us with her heart in
+    her mouth, no doubt, and I'm sure that we had not gone many
+    yards before she was back to see what had happened to the
+    little one. It was quite an exciting adventure for the little
+    oribi and quite incomprehensible to the mother that he had
+    emerged from the peril so safely.</p>
+
+    <p>Another night I was going out to watch for lions. A bait had
+    been placed near the tree where I was stationed and I had some
+    hopes of seeing, if not killing, a lion. Night had already
+    fallen, but there was still a trace of twilight in the air as I
+    walked through the low scrub trees that lay between our camp
+    and the tree, a mile and a half away. As I was walking along I
+    heard a loud screaming to my left, and, looking across, I saw
+    an oribi trying to beat off two jackals that had seized her
+    young baby oribi. The jackals paid little attention to her and
+    she was frantic in her efforts to save her little one.</p>
+
+    <p>It was too dark to see my sights plainly, but I shot at both
+    of the jackals and sent them slinking away. I didn't go over to
+    see if the little oribi was still alive, for I was certain that
+    it had been killed. If it were dead I didn't want to see it and
+    could not help either it or its mother; if it were alive its
+    mother could get it safely away from the jackals. Since that
+    moment I have hated jackals above all animals, not even
+    excepting the odious hyena, and it is the chief regret of my
+    hunting experience in East Africa that I did not kill those two
+    cowardly vandals.</p>
+
+    <p>When the American reader picks up his paper and reads that
+    Colonel Roosevelt has shot a Uganda cob, it is quite natural
+    that he should not know what kind of a thing a cob is. If the
+    colonel was out shooting "singing topis" or "singing sun hats,"
+    why, then, should he not also shoot corn cobs or cob pipes?</p>
+
+    <p>The cob, sometimes spelled kob, however, is only an
+    antelope, although a graceful and handsome one. It is divided
+    into several subspecies which live in different parts of the
+    country. In one part will be found the large cob, almost the
+    size of a waterbuck, which is called Mrs. Gray's cob, in honor
+    of the wife of one of the former keepers in the London zoo; in
+    another part is the species known as Vaughan's cob, and in
+    still other parts are the dusky cob, the puku cob, the lechwi
+    cob, the black lechwi, the Uganda cob and Buffon's cob.</p>
+
+    <p>It was Lady Constance Stewart-Richardson, the remarkable
+    young English woman who is now dancing barefooted on the London
+    music stage, who killed the record head of this last named
+    species in Nigeria.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p261.png"><img src="images/p261s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Gregarious Cob]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Gregarious Cob</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It is of the Uganda cob only that I am able to write about
+    from my own observation and experience. We found them only in
+    one place, on the banks of the Nzoia River near Mount Elgon and
+    the Uganda border. They never were more than four or five
+    hundred yards from the river and could not be driven away. If
+    they were startled at one point they would circle around and
+    quickly get back to the river at some other point. They seemed
+    to become homesick unless they could see the river near by. We
+    found them only in a short stretch of five or six miles,
+    although they doubtless are found all the way down the Nzoia
+    River to Victoria Nyanza.</p>
+
+    <p>The cob is a curiously reliable animal. He likes one certain
+    place that he is accustomed to, and nothing can drive him away.
+    If you see him there one afternoon, you are reasonably certain
+    of coming back the next afternoon and seeing him there again.
+    Usually they graze in some sheltered meadow along the river's
+    edge, and for recreation, so far as I could see, amuse
+    themselves by seeing how many can get on top of one ant-hill at
+    one time. Some of those ant-hills were literally bristling with
+    cobs, one male to each five females, and in herds of from
+    thirty to fifty.</p>
+
+    <p>In architecture, the cob is nearly three feet high at the
+    shoulder, has beautiful, sweeping horns of a lyrate shape, has
+    a white patch around each eye, a white belly, and a coat of
+    yellow with black on the forelegs. There is no handsomer
+    antelope in Africa than the Uganda cob, and because it is found
+    in such a restricted and remote district is accountable for the
+    fact that one seldom sees a cob head in a collection of horns.
+    Comparatively few sportsmen have killed them, although they are
+    not hard to kill if one reaches a district where they are
+    found. The extreme beauty of this antelope led us to secure a
+    group of them for the Field Museum.</p>
+
+    <p>The reedbuck is another of the smaller antelopes that
+    carries a beautiful head, and, like nearly all of the
+    antelopes, comes in many varieties, or subspecies.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0627.jpg"><img src="images/img0627s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Wounded Wart Hog]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Wounded Wart Hog</p><a href=
+      "images/img0723a.jpg"><img src="images/img0723as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce A Grass Fire]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Grass Fire</p><a href="images/img0723b.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0723bs.jpg" alt="[Photograph: A Maribou Stork]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Maribou Stork</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our own relations with the reedbuck were limited to the high
+    altitudes near the Mau escarpment and the broad, rolling,
+    grassy downs along the numerous streams of the Guas Ngishu
+    Plateau. This subspecies is called the Uganda race of the bohor
+    reedbuck&mdash;sometimes abbreviated to "bohor." If you say you've
+    shot a "bohor" you will be understood to mean a bohor
+    reedbuck.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p263.png"><img src="images/p263s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Reedbuck]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Reedbuck</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>You will find the reedbuck in the tall reeds and bulrushes
+    of the swamps and low places, where he finds good cover and
+    good feeding; and also you will find him along the low,
+    undulating, grass-covered hills near his water supply. In the
+    heat of the day they are up in the tall grass, where they
+    remain until along in the afternoon. They lie close, and, if
+    discovered, will dart off with neck outstretched in such a way
+    as to make it difficult to tell which is male and which
+    female.</p>
+
+    <p>I have also seen the females use every means for protecting
+    their lords and masters, standing up before them as they lie
+    secreted in the grass and seeking to divert the attention of
+    the hunter from the bucks to themselves. This desire to protect
+    the male is common to many of the antelope family, and
+    numberless times I have seen a band of does attempt to screen
+    the male and shield him from harm.</p>
+
+    <p>The reedbuck never travels in large numbers, seldom more
+    than two or three, or at most, five or six, being bunched
+    together.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p264.png"><img src="images/p264s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: They Watched While the Buck Ran Away]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>They Watched While the Buck Ran Away</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had most of our reedbuck experiences while driving swamps
+    for lions. On these occasions many reedbuck would be driven out
+    of the cover of the reeds and rushes, and go crashing up the
+    slopes leading away from the swamp. On one occasion a reedbuck
+    lay so close that it did not stir until one of the beaters was
+    almost upon it, when it sprang up, nearly knocking him over,
+    and escaped behind the skirmish line of beaters. At other
+    times, after the skirmish line apparently had traversed every
+    foot of a swamp, reedbuck would spring up after the line had
+    passed, thus illustrating how close they can lie and how
+    effectually they can escape detection.</p>
+
+    <p>The reedbuck has short horns, usually between seven and ten
+    inches in length, but one of our party secured one set of horns
+    ten and a quarter inches long&mdash;an exceptionally fine head. The
+    reedbuck's distinguishing characteristic is a sharp whistle,
+    which he sounds shrilly when alarmed.</p>
+
+    <p>Another beautiful antelope that we met in small numbers on
+    the Tana River and on the Guas Ngihsu Plateau was the bushbuck,
+    found in thick scrub along rivers and also in the swamps and
+    wet places. This animal belongs to a select little coterie of
+    highly prized and rare antelopes, all of which have the
+    distinguishing feature of a spiral horn.</p>
+
+    <p>The bushbuck is the smallest, and is found over nearly all
+    of East Africa except upon the open plains and deserts. The
+    females are of a dark chestnut color, and the males dark,
+    almost black, with white markings on the neck and forelegs. A
+    bushbuck with fifteen-inch horns is considered a fine prize,
+    although horns of nineteen inches are on record.</p>
+
+    <p>The other members of the same family of spiral-horned
+    antelopes are the kudu, the lesser kudu, the situtunga, the
+    nyala, the bongo, and the lordly eland, king of all antelopes
+    in size. The kudu is largely protected in East Africa, and in
+    my shooting experience I was not in a district where he was to
+    be found. The same was true with respect to the lesser kudu.
+    The nyala is a South African species and is not to be found in
+    British East Africa. The situtunga is a swamp dweller and is
+    found chiefly in Uganda and, to my knowledge, infrequently in
+    the East African protectorate.</p>
+
+    <p>The bongo is to the white sportsman what the north pole has
+    been to explorers for centuries. In all records of game
+    shooting there has been, until recently, only one white man who
+    has killed a bongo, although the Wanderobo dwellers of the deep
+    forests have killed many.</p>
+
+    <p>The bongo lives in the densest part of dense forests, can
+    drive his way through the worst tangle of vegetation, and has a
+    hearing and eyesight so keen that usually he sees the hunter
+    long before the latter sees him. A hunt after bongo means long
+    hours or even days of hunting the forests, with hardships of
+    travel so disheartening that comparatively few white sportsmen
+    attempt to go in after the elusive antelope. Kermit Roosevelt,
+    however, with the good fortune that has followed his hunting
+    adventures, succeeded in killing a cow and calf bongo after
+    only a few hours of hunting with a Wanderobo.</p>
+
+    <p>A few days after I heard of this piece of good luck I was
+    traveling across Victoria Nyanza on one of the little steamers
+    that ply the lake. My cabin mate was a stoical Englishman who
+    told me quite calmly that he had just killed a large bull bongo
+    a few days before. He had been visiting Lord Delamere, and
+    after a few hours in the forest had succeeded in doing what
+    only two white men had done before.</p>
+
+    <p>The Englishman who had this good luck was George Grey, a
+    brother of Sir Edward Grey, one of the present cabinet
+    ministers of England.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p267.png"><img src="images/p267s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Eland]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Eland</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The eland is the largest of all antelopes, and we ran across
+    a few on the Tana River and a few on the Guas Ngishu Plateau.
+    Under the old game ordinance the sportsman was allowed to kill
+    one bull eland; under the new ordinance he is allowed to kill
+    none except in certain restricted districts and by special
+    license. The eland is as big as a bull, with spiral horns and
+    beautifully marked skin, and both the male and female carry
+    horns. Those of the latter are usually larger and slenderer,
+    but the skin of the female is not so handsomely marked as that
+    of the male.</p>
+
+    <p>It is hard to get near an eland, but as the bull is nearly
+    six feet high at the shoulders it is not especially difficult
+    to hit him at three hundred yards or more. The one I shot was
+    three hundred and sixty-five yards away and carried beautiful
+    horns, twenty-four and one-quarter inches in length. The head
+    of the great bull eland makes a wonderfully imposing trophy
+    when placed in your baronial halls.</p>
+
+    <p>In the foregoing list of antelopes I have tried to tell a
+    little about the types of that class of animal that I met in my
+    African travels&mdash;in all, sixteen species of antelope. My chief
+    excuse for doing it is to enable people at home to know the
+    difference between a topi and a sun hat and between a sing-sing
+    and a cob. The names of many of the African antelope family are
+    strange and confusing, so that it is little wonder that they
+    mystify people in America. There are a hundred or more kinds,
+    and no one can hope to know them unless he makes a business of
+    it.</p>
+
+    <p>I have not seen the grysbok, or the suni, or the dibitag, or
+    the lechwi, or the aoul, or the gerenuk, or the blaauwbok, or
+    the chevrotain, or lots of others, but who in the world could
+    guess what they were or what they looked like, judging only
+    from the names?</p>
+  </div><a name="XVI" id="XVI"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2>
+
+    <h3>IN THE TALL GRASS OF THE MOUNT ELGON COUNTRY. A NARROW
+    ESCAPE FROM A LONG-HORNED RHINO. A THANKSGIVING DINNER AND A
+    VISIT TO A NATIVE VILLAGE</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Mount</span> Elgon is one of the four great
+    mountains of Africa. You can find it on the map of the dark
+    continent, standing all alone, just a little bit north of
+    Victoria Nyanza, and surrounded by names that one has never
+    heard of before.</p>
+
+    <p>The mountain is distinctly out of the picture-post-card
+    belt&mdash;in fact, the only belt that one will find around Elgon is
+    the timber belt that encircles the mountain, and perhaps also a
+    few that the local residents wear on Sundays and national
+    holidays.</p>
+
+    <p>The function of the latter class of belt is to keep up a gay
+    appearance. It is worn for looks, not warmth.</p>
+
+    <p>The traveler who goes to Mount Elgon will not be distracted
+    by sounds of civilization, except such as he takes with him. He
+    will travel for days without seeing a sign of human life beyond
+    his own following. The country west of the Nzoia River is
+    uninhabited and is abandoned to the elephant and the giraffe
+    and other animals that care not for the madding crowd. Thomas
+    Cook and Son have not yet penetrated that district with
+    schedules and time cards and luggage labels; so if your purpose
+    in traveling is to get a grand assortment of stickers on your
+    trunks and hand-bags, it is useless to include Mount Elgon in
+    your itinerary.</p>
+
+    <p>There will be days of marching through high grass, often so
+    deep as almost to bury yourself and your horse; hours of delay
+    at marshy rivers densely choked with a tangle of riotous
+    vegetation, and much groping about in a trackless waste for a
+    suitable course to follow.</p>
+
+    <p>Owing to intertribal warfare the Elgon district has been
+    closed for some time and it has only been during the last year
+    or so that hunting parties have again been allowed to enter.
+    Since that time a number of parties have been in, the Duke of
+    Alba among the first, and later Doctor Rainsford, Frederick
+    Selous and, Mr. McMillan, Captain Ashton, the Duke of
+    Pe&ntilde;aranda, Mr. Roosevelt, and a few others. Colonel
+    Roosevelt went only as far as the Nzoia River, but most of the
+    others crossed and swung up along the northeastern slopes of
+    the mountain where elephants are most frequently found.</p>
+
+    <p>Our party decided to take the southern slope,
+    notwithstanding we were warned that we might find the natives
+    troublesome and treacherous. We were also warned that we should
+    be going through an untraveled district where there were no
+    trails and where native guides could not be secured.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0725.jpg"><img src="images/img0725s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Native Granary]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Native Granary</p><a href="images/img0629.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0629s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Chair Is a Sure Sign of Rank]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Chair Is a Sure Sign of Rank</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Nevertheless we started and brilliantly blundered into some
+    most diverting adventures.</p>
+
+    <p>The first day's march after crossing the Nzoia River was
+    through scrub country and what we considered high grass. The
+    next day we struck <em>real</em> high grass! It was so deep
+    that we had to burrow through it. Only the helmets of those on
+    horseback marked where the caravan was passing. The long line
+    of porters carrying their burdens were buried from view. It was
+    a terrible place to meet a rhino and perhaps for that very
+    reason we promptly proceeded to meet one.</p>
+
+    <p>We were riding ahead, followed by the cook and the tent
+    boys, and behind them was the long string of a hundred or more
+    porters, askaris, <em>totos</em>, and so forth. The end of the
+    line was some hundred yards behind the head. Suddenly there was
+    a wild cry of "<em>faru!</em>" (rhino).</p>
+
+    <p>It was disconcerting, but after one or two hurried and
+    flurried moments we got our heavy batteries in readiness and
+    prepared to sell his life as cheaply as possible. But no rhino
+    came. The grass was too deep to have seen him if he had come,
+    but we thought it was well to have a reception committee ready
+    just the same.</p>
+
+    <p>Then the rear ranks began to telescope into the front ranks.
+    They came forward two or three jumps at a time. They were
+    visibly perturbed, but presently they recovered enough to give
+    expert testimony.</p>
+
+    <p>A huge rhino had been in the grass by the trail as we came
+    along and had waited until the whole line had passed. Then he
+    jumped into the trail and charged furiously after the porters.
+    The latter, severally, collectively, and frantically, leaped
+    for their lives, dropping packs and uttering hurried appeals to
+    Allah.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p272.png"><img src="images/p272s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: He Estimated the Length at Four Feet]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>He Estimated the Length at Four Feet</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After scattering a few dozen of the rank and file from his
+    line of march the rhino veered off and plunged out of sight in
+    the tall grass. One of the porters whose veracity is
+    unquestioned by those who don't know him estimated the forward
+    horn to be four feet long. He said the rhino charged earnestly
+    and with hostile intent.</p>
+
+    <p>A rhino charging a <em>safari</em> is always a pleasing
+    diversion&mdash;pleasing after it's all over and diverting while it
+    lasts. The cry of "<em>faru</em>" is a good deal like "car
+    coming" at an automobile race. Instantly everybody is all
+    attention, with the attention equally divided between the rhino
+    and the nearest tree. If there is no tree the interest in the
+    rhino becomes more acute.</p>
+
+    <p>The thought of being impaled <em>en brochette</em> on the
+    horn of a rhino is one of the least attractive forms of mental
+    exertion that I know of. It is a close second to the thought of
+    being stepped on by a herd of elephants marching single
+    file.</p>
+
+    <p>Well, we survived the charge of the heavy brigade, and then
+    moved onward, ever and anon casting an alert glance at the deep
+    clumps of thicket along the way. Fortunately no more rhinos
+    appeared and the next thing we struck was Thanksgiving Day.</p>
+
+    <p>The proper way to celebrate that deservedly popular holiday
+    is not by sitting in tall grass with a can of beans and a
+    bottle of pickles in the foreground. This is said with all
+    respect to the manufacturers of beans and pickles who may
+    advertise in the papers.</p>
+
+    <p>For a time, however, beans and pickles seemed to be the
+    nearest outlook for us, but after a while the cook, whose
+    nerves had been shaken by the impetuous advance of the rhino,
+    arose to the demands of the occasion and set up a table upon
+    which soon appeared some hot tea, some bread and honey, some
+    beans and deviled ham, and a few knickknacks in the line of jam
+    and cheese. That was luncheon, and we resolved to do better for
+    dinner.</p>
+
+    <p>We told the cook all about Thanksgiving Day and what its
+    chief purpose was. We also told him of the beautiful
+    significance of the occasion, what happy thoughts it inspired,
+    and how much sentiment was attached to it. Then we told him to
+    get busy. We were in a Thanksgiving mood, being grateful that
+    we were not riding around on the bowsprit of the rhino, and
+    also because our relatives and friends at home were well at
+    last reports, two months old.</p>
+
+    <p>True, our guide, who had never been over the trail before
+    and who was trying to guess the way by instinct, had got us
+    hopelessly becalmed in a sea of high grass so that we didn't
+    know where we were. But we knew what we were. We were
+    hungry!</p>
+
+    <p>In the meantime we planned and carried into brilliant
+    execution a grouse hunt. There were lots of grouse in the
+    country through which we had come and all day long coveys of
+    them had been whirring away from our advancing outposts. It
+    seemed a simple thing to go out and get a few for our
+    Thanksgiving dinner, so we gave orders to make camp and
+    consecrated the afternoon to a grouse quest.</p>
+
+    <p>I'll never forget what a formidable looking party it was.
+    When we had spread out to comb the grass by the river side we
+    looked like a skirmish line of an army. There were four of us,
+    supported by seventeen gunbearers and porters. Our battery
+    consisted of four elephant guns, four heavy rifles, three light
+    rifles, and four shotguns. The latter were for grouse and the
+    others were for incidental big game which one must always be
+    prepared for, whether one goes out to shoot grouse or take
+    snapshots with one's camera.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p275.png"><img src="images/p275s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Grouse Hunt]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Grouse Hunt</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We spread out and beat two miles of perfect cover. Then we
+    beat it back again and finally, after all our Herculean
+    efforts, one lonely bird flew up and was knocked over. That was
+    the astounding total of our slaughter and when the army marched
+    back into camp with its one little grouse the effect was
+    laughable in the extreme. I took a photograph of the entire
+    group and by good luck the grouse is faintly seen suspended in
+    the middle.</p>
+
+    <p>That night, with the camp-fires burning and with our tents
+    almost buried in the tall grass, we celebrated Thanksgiving in
+    a way that must have made old Lucullus fidget in his mausoleum.
+    The wealth of the plains was compelled to yield tribute to our
+    table; eland, grouse and Uganda cob appeared and disappeared as
+    if by magic; the vast storehouses of Europe and America poured
+    their treasures upon our groaning board, and one by one we
+    safely put away succulent lengths of asparagus, cakes and
+    chocolate, wine and olives, pickles and honey, nuts and cheese,
+    plum pudding and coffee, and soup and salad, all in their
+    proper sequence and in sufficient quantities to go round and
+    round.</p>
+
+    <p>A soft moon shone down from the velvet sky and the trees of
+    the river bed were bathed in white moonlight as we sat by the
+    great camp-fire and smoked and talked and dreamed of the folk
+    at home.</p>
+
+    <p>It was an unusual occasion, one that called for a special
+    dispensation in the way of late hours, so it was almost nine
+    when we turned in and dreamed of armies of rhinos playing
+    battledore and shuttlecock with our bulging forms. It was a
+    great dinner, and to be on the safe side we complimented the
+    cook before we went to bed.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0727.jpg"><img src="images/img0727s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Group of Ketosh Ladies]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Group of Ketosh Ladies</p><a href=
+      "images/img0631a.jpg"><img src="images/img0631as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Nearly Buried in Grass]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Nearly Buried in Grass</p><a href=
+      "images/img0631b.jpg"><img src="images/img0631bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Building a Grass House]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Building a Grass House</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>A day or two later, after blindly floundering about in a sea
+    of waving grass for miles and miles, and getting more and more
+    hopelessly lost, we stumbled upon signs of human habitation.
+    The first sign was a great stretch of valley in which a number
+    of smoke columns were ascending. Where there's smoke there's
+    folk, we thought, patting ourselves on the back for cleverness.
+    We knew we were approaching fresh eggs and chickens.</p>
+
+    <p>A little later we came upon another sign of human agitation.
+    Over a rise in a hill we saw a large spear, and in a few
+    minutes we overhauled a native guarding a herd of cattle. He
+    carried a spear and a shield, and over his shoulders he wore a
+    loose dressing sack that hung down nearly to his armpits.
+    Civilization had touched him lightly, in fact it had barely
+    waved at him as it brushed by.</p>
+
+    <p>We tried him with several languages&mdash;Swahili, Kikuyu, the
+    language of flowers, American, Masai, and the sign language,
+    none of which he was conversant with. Then we tried a relay
+    system of dialects which established a vague, syncopated kind
+    of intellectual contact. One of our porters spoke Kavirondo, so
+    he held converse with the far from handsome stranger,
+    translated it into Swahili, and this was retranslated into
+    English for our benefit.</p>
+
+    <p>The stranger was a Ketosh. We didn't know what a Ketosh was,
+    but it sounded more like something in the imperative mood than
+    anything ethnological. It developed later in the day, however,
+    that a Ketosh is a member of the tribe of that name, and their
+    habitat is on the southern slopes of Elgon.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p278.png"><img src="images/p278s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Lady and Gentleman Ketosh]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Lady and Gentleman Ketosh</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The Ketoshites, or Ketoshians, as the case may be, are a
+    cattle- and sheep-raising tribe. In other words, a tribe in
+    which the women do all the manual labor while the men folk sit
+    on a hillside with a shield and spear and watch the herds
+    partake of nourishment. They are the standing army.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p279.png"><img src="images/p279s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Standing Army Sat Around All Day]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Standing Army Sat Around All Day</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We followed the man with the spear to a little village hard
+    by. The village, like all the numerous other ones that we came
+    to in the next few days, was inclosed in a zareba, or wall of
+    tangled thorn branches that encircled the village. Within the
+    wall were a number of low houses, six feet high, built of mud
+    and wattle; and within the houses, spilling over plentifully,
+    were large numbers of children and babies and a few women. A
+    gateway of tangled boughs led into the inclosure, while in one
+    part of the village were the curious woven wickerwork granaries
+    in which the community store of kaffir corn is kept. There were
+    no street signs on the lamp posts, probably because there were
+    no streets and no lamp posts.</p>
+
+    <p>In the first village all the men were away, evidently
+    waiting to see whether our visit was a hostile or a peaceful
+    one.</p>
+
+    <p>We soon established ourselves on a peace footing and after
+    that the warriors began to appear out of the tall grass in
+    large numbers from all points of the compass. They all carried
+    spears and shields, neither of which they would sell for love
+    or money. At least they wouldn't for money. We resolved not to
+    try the other unless the worst came to the worst and we had to
+    fall back on it as a last desperate measure. I suppose they
+    didn't know how soon they might need their weapons, and we
+    heard that the sultan had just sent out a positive order
+    forbidding them to sell their means of defense.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0729.jpg"><img src="images/img0729s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Ketosh Are Gracefully Nonchalant]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Ketosh Are Gracefully Nonchalant</p><a href=
+      "images/img0633a.jpg"><img src="images/img0633as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Little Shelters of Mud and Sticks]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Little Shelters of Mud and Sticks</p><a href=
+      "images/img0633b.jpg"><img src="images/img0633bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Family Party]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Family Party</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The first procedure when entering a district where the
+    natives may be unfriendly is to send out for the chief, or
+    sultan, as he is known in Africa. There is always a sultan to
+    preside over the destinies of his tribe and to take any money
+    that happens along. So we sent for the sultan, who was off in a
+    neighboring village, so they said. After a long wait, during
+    which we pitched our camp and offered a golden reward for eggs
+    and chickens, a sultan drifted in.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p281.png"><img src="images/p281s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Slowly Being Cremated]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Slowly Being Cremated</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We knew he was sultan because he carried a chair&mdash;an
+    unfailing sign of rank among a nation of expert sitters. He
+    also wore an old woolen dressing gown that had worked its way
+    from civilization many years before. It was built for arctic
+    regions, but the sultan of all the Ketoshians wore it right
+    straight through the ardent hours when the sun kisses one with
+    the fiery passion of a mustard plaster. He was slowly being
+    cremated and it was fascinating to watch him sizzle.</p>
+
+    <p>After the sultan came and seated himself with his retinue of
+    spearmen (dressed in the altogether save for the futile cloth
+    around their shoulders) grouped around him we took our seats
+    and began a <em>shauri</em>.</p>
+
+    <p><em>Shauri</em> (rhyming with Bow'ry) is a native word
+    meaning a powwow or a parley and is a word that works overtime.
+    Everything that you do in Africa has to be preceded by a
+    <em>shauri</em>. You have a <em>shauri</em> if you ask a native
+    which road to take. Other natives hurry up, and then you stand
+    around and talk about it for an hour or so.</p>
+
+    <p>If you want to buy a chicken or a cluster of eggs there must
+    first be a prolonged <em>shauri</em> with much interchange of
+    views and conversation and a&euml;rated persiflage. The native
+    loves his <em>shauri</em>, and if he asks you a certain price
+    for a chicken and you give the price without haggling he is
+    greatly disappointed. In fact I have often seen them offer an
+    article for a certain price and then refuse to accept the money
+    if it is at once tendered. Later the native will accept much
+    less if the <em>shauri</em> goes with it.</p>
+
+    <p>Well, we had <em>shauris</em> to burn for a couple of days.
+    As soon as the first sultan had departed with presents and
+    words of good cheer there was a flock of other sultans that
+    hurried in to receive presents and to assist in
+    <em>shauris</em>. They came from far and near, and they all
+    carried chairs, thus proving that they were not impostors; and
+    the worst of it was that we couldn't find out exactly which was
+    the real, most exalted sultan of the bunch. Hence we had to
+    give presents to many who perhaps were only amateur or
+    'prentice sultans, sultans whose domains were only a little
+    village of half a dozen families.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p283.png"><img src="images/p283s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Camp Was Clogged with Sultans]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Camp Was Clogged with Sultans</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>For two days our camp was clogged with <em>shauris</em> and
+    sultans sitting around. We couldn't step out of our tents
+    without stumbling over a sultan or two. When we would take our
+    baths in our tents there would be sultans and warriors peeping
+    in modestly from all sides. There was not a secret of our inner
+    life that remained intact. Even the ladies, from the
+    banana-bellied little girls of five and six up to the
+    leathery-limbed old matrons, inclusive, were not above a
+    feminine curiosity in things which doubtless interested them,
+    but didn't concern them. The standing army of the Ketoshians
+    sat around all day wearing out the grass and being frequently
+    stumbled over.</p>
+
+    <p>If we asked a sultan if there were any elephants in the
+    neighborhood it meant at least fifteen minutes of loose
+    conversation through a relay of interpreters, with the final
+    answer boiled down to a "no" in English. For a language that
+    has only a few words like <em>shauri</em>, <em>backsheesh</em>,
+    <em>apana</em>, and <em>chukula</em> the native lingo is a most
+    elastic one.</p>
+
+    <p>There were two or three things that we had come to Mount
+    Elgon for and about which we desired information. The first was
+    "elephants," and we found, after hours of talk, that there was
+    none in the vicinity. Secondly, we wanted to get food for our
+    men, and thirdly, we wanted guides to take us up to the ancient
+    cave-dwellings in the mountain and more guides to take us up to
+    the top of the mountain itself.</p>
+
+    <p>It seemed almost impossible to get satisfactory information
+    upon either of the last two subjects. The natives didn't want
+    to part with their grain, while for their cattle they asked
+    outrageous prices. We were almost tempted to boycott them by
+    stopping eating meat for two months. They also seemed reluctant
+    to let us have guides to take us up to the caves and none of
+    them seemed to know the trails that led up into the forests and
+    the heights of the mountain. It was evident that only a few
+    ever had been up the mountain upon the slopes of which they had
+    spent their lives.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0731.jpg"><img src="images/img0731s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. At the Entrance of the Great Cave]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>At the Entrance of the Great Cave</p><a href=
+      "images/img0635a.jpg"><img src="images/img0635as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: There Were Granaries in the Cave]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>There Were Granaries in the Cave</p><a href=
+      "images/img0635b.jpg"><img src="images/img0635bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: In One of the Elgon Caves]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>In One of the Elgon Caves</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We began to think that they wanted us to stay in their
+    village just so they could have the pleasure of their daily
+    <em>shauris</em>.</p>
+
+    <p>Finally one sultan promised to get us guides and accepted a
+    generous present on the strength of it; but when the time came
+    he failed to produce them. It was at precisely this point, to
+    be strictly accurate, that we abandoned the polite phraseology
+    of the court and told him with many exclamation points that he
+    would have to guide us himself or we would take steps to
+    dethrone him. Of course, all of this had to be strained through
+    two interpreters, but even then I think he caught the gist of
+    it. He said that he himself would guide us to the nearest and
+    largest cave.</p>
+
+    <p>We told him that we would be ready to start immediately
+    after luncheon. Only ourselves and a few men to carry cameras
+    and guns were to constitute our party, the rest of the
+    <em>safari</em> remaining in camp, from which certain embassies
+    were sent out to buy grain for the porters' food.</p>
+
+    <p>Soon after lunch the sultan arrived and we marched away.
+    Little by little groups of his janissaries, mamelukes, and
+    other members of his official entourage joined us and by the
+    time we reached the slope leading up to the great cave-dwelling
+    we had quite an imposing procession. Most of the natives were
+    armed with spears and knives, and some of them had painted
+    their bodies with red dirt and mutton grease, and when this
+    coating had partly dried they had traced with their fingers
+    many designs in stripes down their arms and legs. Some were a
+    light mauve in color, but most were of a rich chocolate brown.
+    The effect of these designs was rather pretty, but the dripping
+    red oil from their hair was not pretty and on a hot day exuded
+    a strong, overpowering odor.</p>
+
+    <p>Above us, nearly a thousand feet from where we stood, boldly
+    visible in the face of the great cliff, was the broad ledge and
+    black opening of the cave. A short distance to the right of it
+    was a bright waterfall, looking like a ribbon, but in reality
+    quite broad and dropping in three stages several hundred feet.
+    An incline of forty-five degrees led up to the cave, while up
+    beyond that was the great stratum of solid rock that extends
+    for miles along the south of Mount Elgon and which is
+    honey-combed with hundreds of prehistoric cave-dwellings. A
+    determined foe stationed at the mouth of any one of the caves
+    could defend it against an enormous attacking force.</p>
+
+    <p>It was nearly an hour's climb to the ledge where the cave
+    entrance appeared. Several naked men armed with spears stood
+    upon the rocks, outlined in bold and striking relief against
+    the velvety blackness of the cave entrance. They appeared
+    curious but not unfriendly as we breathlessly panted our way on
+    to the ledge where they stood waiting, spears in hand.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p287.png"><img src="images/p287s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Like a Great Stage]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Like a Great Stage</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our first impression was one of gasping wonderment. We
+    seemed to stand upon a great stage of an immensity which words
+    can not describe. It was a stage proportioned for giants. The
+    rock prosscenium arched above us seventy feet and the stage was
+    nearly two hundred feet wide. As an audience chamber one could
+    look out over twenty-five thousand square miles of Central
+    Africa.</p>
+
+    <p>The dimensions and the imposing magnitude of the place
+    almost took one's breath away. Two regiments of soldiers could
+    have marched upon that stage. There was even room for a
+    squadron of cavalry to man&oelig;uver. Upon the well-beaten
+    floor were the tracks of cattle, showing that from time
+    immemorial the cave people had driven in their herds for
+    shelter or for safety in times of tribal warfare; and in places
+    the solid rock was worn smooth and deep by the bare feet of
+    centuries of naked people.</p>
+
+    <p>And yet, in spite of the titanic proportions of the cave,
+    there was something quite homelike about it. It almost
+    suggested a prosperous farm-yard. There were chickens walking
+    about, with little chickens trotting alongside. There were
+    wickerwork graneries standing here and there, while around the
+    inner edge of the great entrance hall were little mud and stick
+    woven houses five feet high, which gave the effect of a small
+    village street.</p>
+
+    <p>From the front of the stage back to the row of little houses
+    was a distance of about one hundred feet. By stooping down one
+    could enter one of the little openings, to be surprised to find
+    himself in another little farm-yard where cattle had been
+    housed and where there were many evidences of the thrift and
+    industry of the occupants. Gourds of milk were present in
+    generous numbers, and as one's eyes became accustomed to the
+    semi-darkness all sorts of domestic paraphernalia were
+    revealed.</p>
+
+    <p>Little separate inclosures were fenced off for human
+    tenantry, and the glow of embers gave a pleasant, homelike look
+    to the place. Cavern after cavern extended back into the cliff,
+    a network of them, but how far they went would be hard to tell.
+    Perhaps the cave in all its subterranean ramifications has
+    never been entirely explored.</p>
+
+    <p>We wandered back through some of the caverns, sometimes
+    stooping to get through and sometimes standing beneath domes
+    thirty and forty feet high. And always that queer, mystical
+    light, with exaggerated shadows and sometimes black darkness
+    ahead, where could be heard the drip, drip, drip of water in
+    invisible lakes. In time of siege the holders of this cave,
+    with granaries filled and with herds of cattle and lakes of
+    water, could hold the place for ever.</p>
+
+    <p>The tenants of the place soon became pleasant and
+    hospitable. Perhaps many of them had never seen white people
+    before, but they sat down and watched us with friendly
+    interest. There were many babies and they were all bright-eyed
+    and rugged looking.</p>
+
+    <p>While we were there the cattle were out on the open hills
+    grazing, but in the evening the long herds are driven up to
+    their airy stronghold and made snug for the night. And who
+    knows but that a great herd of cattle would add much to the
+    heat of the cave and make its nearly naked tenants forget that
+    they were high on the chilly slopes of one of Africa's greatest
+    mountains?</p>
+
+    <p>They certainly do not dress warm. Around their arms and legs
+    are all sorts of brass and nickel wire wound in scores of
+    circles. Chains of wire and necklaces of beads encircle the
+    women's throats and elephant ivory armlets are often clasped
+    about the arms so tight that it would seem that the natural
+    circulation would be hopelessly retarded. But they must be
+    healthy, these people who go about with only a thin sheet of
+    dyed cotton thrown about them, while we northerners shivered
+    with sweaters and warm woolen things about us.</p>
+
+    <p>It's all a case of getting used to it, just as it is a case
+    of getting used to seeing people frankly and unconsciously
+    naked, as many of these people are. But after a while one even
+    gets used to seeing them so and regards their nakedness as one
+    would regard the nakedness of animals.</p>
+  </div><a name="XVII" id="XVII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2>
+
+    <h3>UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN SIDE FROM THE KETOSH VILLAGE TO
+    THE GREAT CAVE OF BATS. A DRAMATIC EPISODE WITH THE FINDING OF
+    A BLACK BABY AS A CLIMAX</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">For</span> days we had heard of wonderful
+    places higher up in the mountain. The information had been so
+    vague and uncertain we hardly knew whether to credit the
+    reports or simply put them down as native folk lore or
+    superstition. One night we interviewed Askar, one of the Somali
+    gunbearers.</p>
+
+    <p>He said he had been up the mountain a year or two before
+    with a Frenchman who wanted to see the mysterious natural
+    wonders of Mount Elgon. The Frenchman had to threaten to kill
+    his native guides before they would consent to lead him up in
+    the cold heights of the mountain to show him the places that
+    filled the native imagination with such fear and superstitious
+    dread.</p>
+
+    <p>There was one place, Askar said, where the water boiled out
+    of the ground far, far up in the mountain heights, and any
+    native who looked at it fell dead. Askar said he went up and
+    looked at it through the glasses, and then ran away.</p>
+
+    <p>All this queer information came out at one of our evening
+    camp-fire <em>shauris</em>. The great central camp-fire of a
+    <em>safari</em> is usually in front of the tents of the
+    <em>msungu</em>, or white people, and around it in the evening
+    the <em>msungu</em> discuss the adventures of the day and the
+    plans for the morrow. Each night Abdi, the <em>neapara</em> or
+    head-man, comes up to get his instructions for the next
+    morning, and soon afterward Abdullah, the cook, appears and
+    waits for his orders for the breakfast hour.</p>
+
+    <p>Abdullah is the color of night, and no one ever sees him
+    approach or go away. He simply appears and often stands only a
+    few feet away before any one is aware of his presence. And even
+    after he speaks, one sees only a row of white teeth looming up
+    five feet above the ground. If any important matters are to be
+    adjusted it is usually at the camp-fire that the things are
+    settled. If punishment is to be meted out to a transgressor, it
+    is there that the trial is held and judgment rendered.</p>
+
+    <p>Well, on, this night as we sat talking by the camp-fire,
+    Abdi, our head-man, suddenly appeared and squatted down. Soon
+    after up came Askar, who also squatted down, and we knew that
+    we were in for some unusual sort of a <em>shauri</em>. It was
+    then that Askar told of the strange mystery of the
+    mountain.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0733.jpg"><img src="images/img0733s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Curious as to Our Home Life]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Curious as to Our Home Life</p><a href=
+      "images/img0637a.jpg"><img src="images/img0637as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: On the Rim of the Crater]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>On the Rim of the Crater</p><a href=
+      "images/img0637b.jpg"><img src="images/img0637bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Birthday Dinner]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Birthday Dinner</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>"Askar says," spoke Abdi, interpreting Askar's imperfect
+    English, "that up in the mountain there is a big door and a
+    great cave. He went up with a Frenchman, and the guides refused
+    to go. Then the Frenchman threatened to kill them if they would
+    not go. They were frightened, because all the natives die who
+    go to the big door and see the boiling fountain through the
+    door. Askar say all the natives ran away, but the Frenchman go
+    on."</p>
+
+    <p>"Did Askar see the door?"</p>
+
+    <p>"Askar says he see the door and he see the fountain through
+    some glasses. Then he ran away."</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p293.png"><img src="images/p293s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Camp in the Forest]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Camp in the Forest</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>"Can Askar take us up to the cave and the big door?"</p>
+
+    <p>There was then a long discussion in Somali between Askar and
+    Abdi, which finally was briefly rendered into English. Askar
+    would show us the way.</p>
+
+    <p>We then sent for the sultan of the Ketosh tribe and
+    interviewed him. He was singularly reticent about the subject,
+    and both he and the other natives called in used all their
+    crude intelligence to discourage any attempt to go up into
+    those districts that were so full of strange, forbidding
+    influences. They said there were no trails, and when we said we
+    would go anyway, they said there was a trail, but that it was
+    so tangled with undergrowth and vines that one had to creep
+    through it, like an animal. We still said we would go, and told
+    the sultan to get us guides, for which we would pay well.</p>
+
+    <p>All this happened while we were in the Ketosh village that
+    lies on the slope of the mountain just beneath the great rock
+    wall, a thousand feet high, whose upper rim is honeycombed with
+    the ancient caves of the aborigines. For days we had stopped
+    there, endeavoring to get food and guides, and for days the
+    sultan and his people had placed every obstacle in the way of
+    our ascending higher the mysterious and comparatively unknown
+    mountain. The great rock escarpment shut off the view of the
+    peaks beyond, but we felt that if once we could scale the first
+    precipitous slope we would find traveling much easier on the
+    gentle slope of the mountain.</p>
+
+    <p>At last, after persuasion, threats, money, and pleading had
+    in turn been tried, the sultan brought his son and said that
+    his son would guide us.</p>
+
+    <p>The son was the craftiest and crookedest looking native I
+    had seen in Africa. After one look at him, you were filled with
+    such distrust and suspicion that you would hardly believe him
+    if he said he thought it was going to rain, or that crops were
+    looking up.</p>
+
+    <p>With this man as a guide, and with four more who were
+    tempted by the bright red blankets we gave, our caravan started
+    on one of the strangest and perhaps most foolhardy trips that
+    presumably sane people ever made. In the first place, probably
+    fewer than half a dozen white men had ever ascended Mount
+    Elgon. There were no adequate maps of the region, and the one
+    we had was woefully inaccurate. It was made as if from
+    telegraphic description, and the only thing in which it proved
+    trustworthy was that there was a mountain there and that it was
+    about fourteen thousand two hundred feet high, and that the
+    line separating British East Africa from Uganda ran through the
+    crater at the top.</p>
+
+    <p>Our delay at the Ketosh village had greatly reduced our food
+    supplies for the porters, and there was only enough left to
+    last six days. In that time we should have to ascend the
+    mountain and descend to some place where food supplies could be
+    procured. It all looked quite quixotic. We bought two bullocks,
+    a sheep, and a goat, and, with our guides ahead, our entire
+    <em>safari</em> of over a hundred souls turned toward the grim
+    heights that shot up before us.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p296.png"><img src="images/p296s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Up to the Rim of the Crater]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Up to the Rim of the Crater</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The trail for the first thousand feet of ascent was steep
+    and hard to climb. The rocks high above us were specked with
+    natives, who gazed down in wonder at the strange spectacle.
+    These were the cave-dwellers. After an hour or more we reached
+    the crest of the rim and then continued through elephant grass
+    ten feet high, then dense forest, and finally through miles of
+    clean, cool, shadowy bamboos&mdash;always steadily climbing. The
+    trail was fairly good and our progress was encouraging.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0735.jpg"><img src="images/img0735s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: In the Belt of Bamboo]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>In the Belt of Bamboo</p><a href=
+      "images/img0639a.jpg"><img src="images/img0639as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Giant Cactus Growth In the Crater]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Giant Cactus Growth In the Crater</p><a href=
+      "images/img0639b.jpg"><img src="images/img0639bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Up Twelve Thousand Feet in the Crater]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Up Twelve Thousand Feet in the Crater</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There were many elephant pits in the bamboo forest, but they
+    were all ancient ones, half-filled with decayed leaves and
+    obviously unused for half a century or more. From some of them
+    fairly large-sized trees had grown. Sometimes in the midst of
+    these great, silent, light-green forests we came upon giant
+    trees, tangled and gnarled, with trunks twenty or thirty feet
+    in circumference. In vain we looked for the impassable trail
+    the natives had warned us to expect.</p>
+
+    <p>Late in the afternoon we came to a wonderful cave, over the
+    mouth of which a wonderful fan-shaped waterfall dropped seventy
+    feet or more. My aneroid barometer indicated an elevation of
+    eighty-two hundred feet, showing that we had climbed
+    twenty-seven hundred feet since morning. We found a little
+    clearing in the bamboo forest and pitched our tents on ground
+    that sloped down like the roof of a house. The clearing was
+    barely fifty yards long, yet our twenty or more tents were
+    pitched, our horses tethered in the middle, and the camp-fires
+    crackled merrily as the chill air of night came down upon us.
+    From the forest came the multitude of sounds that told of
+    strange birds and animals that were out on their nocturnal hunt
+    for food.</p>
+
+    <p>Early in the morning the <em>safari</em> was sent on with
+    the guides while we remained to explore the cave. It was an
+    immense cavern, with an entrance hall, or foyer, about thirty
+    feet high and a hundred feet in length. Along the inner edge
+    were the crumbling remains of little mud and wattle huts that
+    had been occupied by people a long time before. Beyond this
+    great entrance hall were passages that led into other vast,
+    echoing caverns with domes like those of a cathedral.</p>
+
+    <p>Countless thousands of bats darted about us as our voices
+    broke the silence of ages, and in places the deposits of bats
+    were two or three feet deep. It staggered one's senses to think
+    how long these creatures had dwelt within the labyrinth of
+    caverns and passageways.</p>
+
+    <p>We explored the cave for a quarter of a mile or so,
+    stumbling, stooping, climbing, and sliding down precipitous
+    slopes. Far off in the darkness sounded the steady drip, drip,
+    drip of water, and several times our progress was stopped by
+    black lakes into which a tossed stone would tell of depths that
+    might be almost bottomless. We fired our shotguns and the
+    loosened dirt and rocks and the thunder of thousands of bats'
+    wings were enough to terrify the senses.</p>
+
+    <p>There is no telling how many centuries or ages these caverns
+    have stood as they stand to-day. Doubtless the wild tribes of
+    the mountain have occupied them for thousands of years, and
+    doubtless a thousand years from now the descendants of these
+    tribes of people and bats will still be there in the
+    cisternlike caverns with the broad fan of sparkling water
+    spreading like a beautiful curtain across the great archway of
+    an entrance.</p>
+
+    <p>That night, after hours of climbing through great forests
+    and across grassy slopes gay with countless varieties of
+    beautiful and strange flowers, we pitched our camp on a
+    wind-swept height eleven thousand feet up. The peaks of the
+    mountain rose high above us only a mile or so farther on.</p>
+
+    <p>When the night fell the cold was intense, and we huddled
+    about the camp-fire for warmth. Around each of the porters'
+    camp-fires the humped-up natives crouched and dreamed of the
+    warm valleys far below in the darkness. I suppose the cold made
+    them irritable, for just as we were preparing to turn in there
+    suddenly came a succession of screams from one of the
+    groups&mdash;screams of a boy in mortal terror. The sounds breaking
+    out so unexpectedly in the silent night were enough to freeze
+    the blood in one's veins. I never heard such frantic
+    screams&mdash;like those that might come from a torture-chamber.</p>
+
+    <p>One of the porters had become infuriated by one of the
+    <em>totos</em>&mdash;small boys who go along to help the
+    porters&mdash;and had started in to beat him. The boy was probably
+    more frightened than hurt, but the matter was one demanding
+    instant punitive action. So Abdi immediately inflicted it in a
+    most satisfying manner.</p>
+
+    <p>Once more the silence of the mountain fell upon the camp,
+    but it was hours before the shock to one's senses could be
+    forgotten. I never before, nor never again expect to hear
+    screams more harrowing or terrifying.</p>
+
+    <p>The next day a Martian sitting upon his planet with a
+    powerful glass might have seen the amazing sight of three
+    horses, one mule, two bullocks, a goat, and a sheep, preceded
+    and followed by over a hundred human beings, painfully creep
+    over the rim of the crater and breathlessly pause before the
+    great panorama of Africa that lay stretched out for hundreds of
+    miles on all sides. It was as though an army had ascended Mont
+    Blanc, and thus Hannibal crossing the Alps was repeated on a
+    small scale.</p>
+
+    <p>Leaving our horses on the rim of the crater, a few of us
+    climbed the highest peak, fourteen thousand three hundred and
+    seventy-five feet high, as registered by my aneroid barometer,
+    and stood where very few had stood before. Even the official
+    height of the mountain, as given on the maps, was found to be
+    inaccurate, and illustrated how vaguely the geographers knew
+    the mountain.</p>
+
+    <p>That night we camped in the crater, twelve thousand feet up,
+    and washed in a boiling sulphur spring that sprang from the
+    rocks on the Uganda side. Perhaps this was the boiling fountain
+    the superstitious natives feared, for it was the only one we
+    saw. And perhaps the great gorge through which the river
+    Turkwel, or Suam, flowed on its long journey north was the door
+    that Askar had told us about. It was the only door we saw, but
+    Askar said the door he meant was away off somewhere else, and
+    he was so vague and confused in his bearings that we felt his
+    information was unreliable.</p>
+
+    <p>The crater of Mount Elgon has long since lost any
+    resemblance to a volcanic crater. It is a great valley, or
+    bowl, surrounded by a lofty rim that in reality is a
+    considerable chain of mountains. The bowl is two or three miles
+    long and as much wide, with tall grass growing on the small
+    hills inside and thousands upon thousands of curious
+    cactus-like trees. Several mountain streams tumble down from
+    the gorges between the peaks and, uniting, flow out of the big
+    gap in one stream, the river Turkwel, which separates Uganda
+    from British East Africa.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p301.png"><img src="images/p301s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: In the Crater of Mount Elgon]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>In the Crater of Mount Elgon</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Mount Elgon is not an imposing mountain and on most
+    occasions there is no snow on its peaks. Only one time during
+    the several weeks that we were in sight of it was its summit
+    capped with snow. A few species of small animals live in the
+    crater, but no human beings. At night ice formed in the little
+    pools where we camped and a furious wind, biting cold, swept
+    down from the peaks and eddied out of the great gap where the
+    Turkwel flows.</p>
+
+    <p>To all of our <em>safari</em> it was a welcome hour when we
+    struck camp, preparatory to leaving the crater for the lower
+    levels. The guides said there were only two ways out&mdash;one by
+    the Turkwel gorge and the other by the route up which we came.
+    The former might lead us far from any sources of food supplies,
+    which by that time were becoming imperatively necessary, and
+    the latter was undesirable unless as a last resort. After some
+    deliberation we resolved to climb over the eastern rim and
+    strike for the Nzoia River. No one had ever been known to take
+    this course, but we felt that we could cut our way out and make
+    trails sufficient to follow.</p>
+
+    <p>The guides refused to go, because by doing so they would
+    enter a district where they might encounter tribes that were
+    hostile to their own. On one side of this mountain there was a
+    bitter tribal war even then under way. So we cheerfully said
+    good-by to the Elgonyi guides and slowly climbed the rock rim
+    and started for the unknown.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0737.jpg"><img src="images/img0737s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Deserted Wanderobo Village]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Deserted Wanderobo Village</p><a href=
+      "images/img0641.jpg"><img src="images/img0641s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Where We Had Our Thanksgiving Day Lunch]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Where We Had Our Thanksgiving Day Lunch</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>For two days we climbed downward, sometimes along ancient
+    elephant trails and sometimes along the sheep trails made by
+    the flocks of mountain tribes. Several times we came upon
+    deserted Wanderobo villages, and it was evident the natives who
+    occupied them were abandoning their homes in terror before our
+    descending column. Sometimes we groped our way through great
+    forests in which there was no trail to follow, and sometimes we
+    cut our way through dense jungle thickets like a solid wall of
+    vegetation.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p303.png"><img src="images/p303s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Galloping Lions]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Galloping Lions</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Upon several occasions we came to impassable places where an
+    abrupt cliff would necessitate a tiresome return and a new
+    attempt. Once we came to a little clearing in the vast forest
+    where the grass was like a lawn and where towering trees rose
+    like the arches of a great cathedral a hundred feet above. It
+    was the most beautiful, serene and majestic spot I have ever
+    seen. Even the religious grandeur of Nikko's cryptomeria aisles
+    was incomparable to this.</p>
+
+    <p>One afternoon our column found itself hopelessly lost in a
+    jungle growth so dense that one could penetrate it only by
+    cutting a tunnel through, and for hours we hacked and hacked
+    and made microscopic progress. At last the head of the column
+    came to an abrupt drop of a couple of hundred feet which seemed
+    an effectual bar to all further progress. The cliff fell off at
+    an angle of sixty degrees, with the slope densely matted with
+    heavy scrub and underbrush. It was necessary either to retrace
+    our steps through that long and heart-breaking jungle or else
+    find a way down the cliff. The water was gone and the horses
+    must be got to water before night.</p>
+
+    <p>Then, followed the most dramatic episode of our trip. We
+    simply fell over the cliff, plunging, caroming, and ricocheting
+    down through the masses of vegetation. How the horses got down
+    I shall never know and shall always consider as a miracle. And
+    how the burden-bearing porters managed to get their loads down
+    is even more of a mystery.</p>
+
+    <p>Somewhere down below we heard the cry of a baby!</p>
+
+    <p>That meant that there must be human habitation near and, of
+    course, a mountain stream, and perhaps guides to lead us out of
+    the mountain fastness. A few moments more of falling and
+    sliding and plunging, and the advance guard came into a tiny
+    clearing where a fire was burning. A rude Wanderobo shack,
+    built around the base of a towering tree from which fell great
+    festoons of giant creepers, stood in the center of the
+    clearing. Some food, still hot, was found in the vessels in
+    which it had been cooking. The people had fled and had been
+    swallowed up in the silent depths of the forest.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p305.png"><img src="images/p305s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Coming Down the Mountain]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Coming Down the Mountain</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We called and shouted, but no answer came. Some of our
+    porters proceeded to rob the shack of its store of wild honey,
+    but were apprehended in time and were threatened with violent
+    punishment if it continued. Then we prepared to make camp.
+    There was no space for our tents, and trees had to be cut down
+    and a little clearing made. Here the tents were huddled
+    together, clinging to the sloping mountain side. Darkness fell,
+    and then a most wonderful thing happened.</p>
+
+    <p>One of the tent boys who was searching for firewood in the
+    darkening forest found a little naked baby, barely three months
+    old. It had been thrown away as its mother, as she thought,
+    fled for her life. The baby was brought into camp, wrapped up,
+    and cared for, and it will never know how near it came to being
+    devoured by a leopard or a forest hog. It was the crying of
+    this baby that we heard, and we assumed that its mother had
+    cast it aside so that its wailing would not betray the
+    hiding-place of the remainder of her family. One can only
+    imagine what her terror must have been to make this sacrifice
+    in the common interest.</p>
+
+    <p>Now, a three-months-old baby is a good deal of a problem for
+    a <em>safari</em> to handle. In our equipment we had made no
+    provision for the care of infants. We could wrap it up and keep
+    it warm, and feed it canned milk, but I imagine the proper care
+    of a little babe requires even more than that. It was
+    imperative that we find the mother before the baby died.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p307.png"><img src="images/p307s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: A Tent Boy Found It]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>A Tent Boy Found It</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>So we first enjoined our mob of porters, who are chronically
+    noisy, to be quiet under penalty of a severe <em>kiboko</em>
+    punishment. We then sent out Kavirondo, the big, good-natured
+    porter who always acted as our interpreter when dealing with
+    the natives of the mountain district. He spoke the dialects of
+    the Wanderobo tribes. He was a messenger of peace, and he was
+    told to shout out through the forest that we were friendly,
+    that we had the baby, and that the mother should come and get
+    it. We felt absolutely certain that the sound of his voice
+    would carry to where the mother was hidden.</p>
+
+    <p>For an hour or more we heard the strong voice of Kavirondo
+    crying out his message of peace, and yet no answering cry came
+    from the black depths of the forest. It began to look as if we
+    were one little black baby ahead. In the meantime the baby was
+    behaving beautifully. It was wrapped warmly in a bath towel and
+    seemed to enjoy the attention it was receiving. Some one
+    suggested that we leave it in the shack and then all retire so
+    that the mother could creep in and recover it. But this had one
+    objection&mdash;a leopard might creep in first.</p>
+
+    <p>We cooked our dinner and away off in the forest came the
+    echoing shouts of Kavirondo. The camp settled down to quiet and
+    the camp-fires twinkled among the towering trees. Then some one
+    rushed in to say that the father and mother had come in.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0739.jpg"><img src="images/img0739s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. &quot;Kavirondo&quot;]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>"Kavirondo"</p><a href="images/img0643a.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0643as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Outlined Against the Sky]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Outlined Against the Sky</p><a href=
+      "images/img0643b.jpg"><img src="images/img0643bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Reception Committee]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Reception Committee</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Kavirondo had restored the baby! There was an instant
+    impulse to rush down to see the glad reunion, but better
+    counsel prevailed. Such a charge, <em>en masse</em>, even
+    though friendly, might frighten the natives away. So Akeley
+    alone went down and assured the father and mother that we were
+    friendly and that nothing would harm them. And when he came
+    back it was to report that the parents and the little baby were
+    peacefully installed in their forest home again.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p309.png"><img src="images/p309s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: She Threw Her Baby Away]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>She Threw Her Baby Away</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Early in the morning we went down to see our strange
+    friends. They had greatly increased in number during the night.
+    There were now one man, two of his wives, an old woman, and
+    eight children, and the tiny baby. All fear had vanished, and
+    they seemed certain that no harm was likely to come to
+    them.</p>
+
+    <p>The man was a good-looking, strongly built native with fine
+    honest eyes. The women were comely and the children positively
+    handsome. I have never seen such a healthy, fine-eyed,
+    well-built assortment of childhood, ranging all the way from
+    three months up to eight or nine years of age. He was the
+    president of the Anti-Race Suicide Club. We gave them all
+    presents&mdash;beads to the children and brass wire to the women. We
+    also made up a little fund of rupees for the baby, although
+    money seemed to mean nothing to any of them. They had never
+    seen white men before and probably knew nothing of metal money.
+    Beads and brass wire were the only currency they knew. We tried
+    to photograph them, but the shades in the forest were deep and
+    the light too was bad for successful pictures.</p>
+
+    <p>Little by little we got their story.</p>
+
+    <p>There was warfare between the forest people and the savage
+    Kara Mojas to the north. Neither side could ever tell when a
+    band of the foe would swoop down upon them, killing the men,
+    stealing the sheep and seizing the women. Only a few months
+    before one of the Kara Mojas had come in and stolen some sheep
+    and in return our Wanderobo friend had sallied forth, killed
+    the Kara Moja, and captured his wife. It was the latter who was
+    now the mother of the little baby, and she seemed quite
+    reconciled to the change.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p311.png"><img src="images/p311s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Wanderobos' Home]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Wanderobos' Home</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>When, the night before, the little family around the
+    camp-fire heard the crashing of brushes and the hacking of
+    underbrush and the shouts of our porters they thought a great
+    force of the Kara Mojas was upon them. So they fled in terror.
+    The baby cried, and, fearful that its wails would betray their
+    hiding-place, they had cast it away in the bushes. Then they
+    had fled into the depths of the forest and, huddled together in
+    silent fear, waited in the hope that the Kara Mojas would
+    leave. Finally they heard Kavirondo's shouts and then after
+    hours of indecision they decided to come in.</p>
+
+    <p>That is the end of the story. The Wanderobo, grateful to us,
+    led us by secret trails out of the wilderness, or as far as he
+    dared to go. He led us to the edge of the enemy's country and
+    then returned to his forest home.</p>
+
+    <p>In a couple of days of hard marching, one of which was
+    through soaking torrents of rain, without food for ten hours,
+    we reached the Nzoia River. Our mountain troubles were
+    overs.</p>
+  </div><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2>
+
+    <h3>ELECTRIC LIGHTS, MOTOR-CARS AND FIFTEEN VARIETIES OF WILD
+    GAME. CHASING LIONS ACROSS COUNTRY IN A CARRIAGE</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Nairobi</span> is a thriving, bustling
+    city, with motor cars, electric lights, clubs, race meets,
+    balls, banquets, and all the frills that constitute an
+    up-to-date community. Carriages and dog-carts and motorcycles
+    rush about, and lords and princes and earls sit upon the
+    veranda of the leading hotel in hunting costumes. Lying out
+    from Nairobi are big grazing farms, many of them fenced in with
+    barbed wire; and the peaceful rows of telegraph poles make
+    exclamation points of civilization across the landscape. It
+    doesn't sound like good hunting in such a district, does it?
+    Yet this is what actually happened:</p>
+
+    <p>We had discharged our <em>safari</em>, packed up our tents,
+    and were just ready to start to Mombasa to catch a ship for
+    Bombay. A telegram unexpectedly arrived, saying that the boat
+    would not sail until three days later, so we decided to put in
+    two or three more mornings of shooting out beyond the limits of
+    the city.</p>
+
+    <p>We got a carriage, a low-necked vehicle drawn by two little
+    mules. It was driven by a young black boy, and we got another
+    boy from the hotel to go along for general utility purposes.
+    Into this vehicle we placed our guns, and at seven o'clock in
+    the morning drove out of the town. In fifteen or twenty minutes
+    we had passed through the streets and had reached the pleasant
+    roads of the open plains. Soon we passed the race-track and
+    then bowled merrily along between peaceful barbed-wire fences.
+    Occasional groups of Kikuyus were tramping along the road,
+    bringing in eggs or milk to Nairobi. A farm-house or two lay
+    off to either side, and once or twice we passed boys herding
+    little bunches of ostriches.</p>
+
+    <p>At about a quarter to eight we drove up the tree-lined
+    avenue of a farm-house and a pleasant-faced woman responded to
+    our knock. We asked for permission to shoot on the farm and
+    were told that we were quite welcome to shoot as much as we
+    wished.</p>
+
+    <p>Five minutes later, less than an hour's drive from Nairobi,
+    we drove past a herd of nearly sixty impalla. They watched us
+    gravely from a distance of two hundred yards. At this point we
+    left the well-traveled road and drove into the short prairie
+    grass that carpeted, the Athi Plains. The carriage bumped
+    pleasantly along, and as we reached a little rise a few hundred
+    feet away, the great stretch of the plains lay spread out
+    before us.</p>
+
+    <p>Mount Kenia, eighty or ninety miles north, was clear and
+    bright with its snow-capped peaks sparkling in the early
+    sunlight. Off to its left rose the Aberdare Range, with the
+    dominating peak of Kinangop; to its right rose the lone bald
+    uplift of Donyo Sabuk, and to the east were the blue Lukenia
+    Hills. The house-tops of Nairobi waved miragically in the
+    valley, with a low range of blue hills beyond. Across the
+    plains ran the row of telegraph poles that marked the course of
+    the railway and a traveling column of smoke indicated the busy
+    course of a railway train. This was the setting within which
+    lay the broad stretches of the Athi Plains, billowing in waves
+    like a grass-covered sea.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0741.jpg"><img src="images/img0741s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Nest of Ostrich Eggs]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Nest of Ostrich Eggs</p><a href=
+      "images/img0645a.jpg"><img src="images/img0645as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Herd of Ostriches]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Herd of Ostriches</p><a href=
+      "images/img0645b.jpg"><img src="images/img0645bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce We Bumped Merrily Along]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>We Bumped Merrily Along</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>As we drove along big herds of zebras paused in their
+    grazing to regard the carriage as it merrily bumped across the
+    hills. As long as we remained in the vehicle they showed no
+    alarm, for they had seen many carriages along the neighboring
+    roads. It was only when the carriage stopped that they showed
+    an apprehensive interest. Great numbers of Coke's hartebeest
+    watched us with humorous interest. An eland grazed peacefully
+    upon a distant hill, and a wart-hog trotted away as we
+    approached. Immense numbers of Thompson's gazelle skipped away
+    merrily and then turned to regard us with widespread ears and
+    alert eyes. Two Grant's gazelles were seen, while far off upon
+    a grassy hillside were many wildebeest&mdash;the animal that we were
+    seeking. It was impossible to get close enough to shoot
+    effectively, and after a time we gave up our attempts in that
+    direction.</p>
+
+    <p>The wildebeest, although living so near Nairobi, are most
+    wild, and with miles of plains stretching out upon all sides it
+    is easy for them to keep several hundred yards of space between
+    themselves and danger. We spent a couple of hours of fruitless
+    stalking and then were obliged to hurry back to town in order
+    to be at the hotel when the tiffin bell rang.</p>
+
+    <p>I had not yet secured a Thompson's gazelle, so we stopped
+    and each of us shot one on our way to the road. Then we
+    returned to town. People along the streets regarded us with
+    surprised interest, for there were two gazelles hanging out of
+    the carriage and our four rifles gave the vehicle an
+    incongruously warlike aspect.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p316.png"><img src="images/p316s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Shooting Wildebeest (Cross Marks Location of Wildebeest, Outward Bound]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Shooting Wildebeest (Cross Marks Location of
+      Wildebeest, Outward Bound)</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The next morning at seven o'clock we were again in our
+    carriage. We drove out to the same place and at a few minutes
+    after eight we were amazed to see a wild dog rise from the
+    grass and look at us. We hastily jumped out of the carriage and
+    walked toward him. In a moment a number of others rose from the
+    grass, until we saw seventeen of them. This animal is seldom
+    seen by sportsmen, and I believe it is considered quite rare.
+    In four months only one of our party had previously seen any.
+    Sometimes they savagely attack human beings, and when they do
+    their attack is fierce and hard to repel. They watched us
+    narrowly as we approached them and then moved slowly away. They
+    seemed neither afraid nor ferocious.</p>
+
+    <p>We each shot and missed. The pack split, and Stephenson
+    followed one little bunch while I followed another. My course
+    led me toward a shallow, rock-strewn nullah, and once or twice
+    I fired again at the wild dogs. But I couldn't hit them. There
+    was nothing remarkable in my failure to make a good shot, but
+    Stephenson, who is a celebrated rifle shot, seemed to be
+    equally unfortunate in his work. He was some distance away and
+    his bullets would not go where he wanted them to go.</p>
+
+    <p>Suddenly my attention was riveted upon three forms that
+    walked slowly out of the nullah and climbed the slope on the
+    other side, about three hundred and fifty yards away. I was
+    transfixed with amazement and could hardly believe my eyes.</p>
+
+    <p>They were lions!</p>
+
+    <p>One was a female and the other two immense males. They were
+    walking slowly, and once or twice they stopped to look back at
+    me. Then they resumed their stately retreat.</p>
+
+    <p>As soon as I recovered from my astonishment I shouted to
+    Stephenson, who had been lured far away by the wild dogs.</p>
+
+    <p>"<em>Simba!</em>" I yelled, pointing to the three lions.</p>
+
+    <p>He seemed not to comprehend, and I saw him reluctantly turn
+    from the dogs and fix his glasses upon the direction I
+    indicated. In no time he was hurrying up to join me, and we
+    hastily formed a plan of campaign. The lions had now
+    disappeared over the brow of the hill. I looked at my watch and
+    the hour was not yet nine o'clock. We were still in sight of
+    the distant house-tops of Nairobi. It seemed unbelievable.</p>
+
+    <p>We crossed the nullah and the carriage jolted down and
+    across a few minutes later. We took our seats and studied the
+    plains with our glasses. The lions were not in sight. Then we
+    studied the herds of game and saw that many of them were
+    looking in a certain direction. We drove in that direction and
+    whipped up the mules to a lively trot. In a few minutes
+    Stephenson picked up the three lions far to the left, where
+    they were slowly making their way toward another ravine a mile
+    or so beyond.</p>
+
+    <p>Then began one of the strangest lion hunts ever recorded in
+    African sporting annals.</p>
+
+    <p>You may have read of the practice of "riding" lions. Doctor
+    Rainsford, in his splendid book on lion hunting, describes this
+    thrilling sport in such vivid words that you shiver as you read
+    them. Mounted men gallop after the lion, bring it to bay, and
+    then hold it there until the white hunter comes up to a close
+    range and shoots it. In the meantime the cornered beast is
+    charging savagely at the horsemen, who trust to the speed and
+    quickness of their mounts to elude the angry rushes of the
+    infuriated animal. It is a most spectacular method of lion
+    hunting and is only eclipsed in danger and daring by the native
+    method of surrounding a lion and spearing it to death.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0743.jpg"><img src="images/img0743s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: A Kikuyu Woman Uses Her Head]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Kikuyu Woman Uses Her Head</p><a href=
+      "images/img0647a.jpg"><img src="images/img0647as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: On the Athi Plains]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>On the Athi Plains</p><a href=
+      "images/img0647b.jpg"><img src="images/img0647bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: It Was a Rakish Craft]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>It Was a Rakish Craft</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>To my knowledge, no one has ever "galloped" a lion in a
+    carriage drawn by two mules, and probably few hunters have ever
+    galloped three lions at one time under any conditions.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a memorable chase. The mules were lashed into a
+    gallop and the carriage rocked like a Channel steamer. We were
+    gaining rapidly and the distance separating us from the lions
+    was quickly diminishing. It seemed as if the three lions were
+    not especially eager to escape, for they moved away slowly, as
+    if half-inclined to turn upon us.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p319.png"><img src="images/p319s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: It Rocked Like a Channel Steamer]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>It Rocked Like a Channel Steamer</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We hoped to overtake them before they reached the ravine or
+    such uneven ground as would compel us to abandon the
+    carriage.</p>
+
+    <p>Five hundred yards! Then four hundred yards, and soon three
+    hundred yards. The mules were doing splendidly, and we knew
+    that we should soon be within good shooting distance. At two
+    hundred and fifty yards the largest of the two males, a great,
+    black-maned lion, stopped and turned toward us. His two
+    companions continued moving away toward the ravine.</p>
+
+    <p>Thinking it a good moment to strike, we leaped from the
+    carriage and knelt to fire. Stephenson shot at the big
+    black-mane and I at the male that was retreating. Both shots
+    missed. The black-mane resumed his retreat and we got in a
+    couple more ineffectual shots before the three lions
+    disappeared over the brow of the ravine.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p320.png"><img src="images/p320s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: At Two Hundred and Fifty Yards]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>At Two Hundred and Fifty Yards</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Once more in the carriage and another wild gallop as far as
+    the vehicle would go. For a few moments we lost sight of the
+    lions, but presently we saw them climbing up the opposite
+    slope, four hundred yards away. It was a long distance to
+    shoot, but we hoped to bring them to bay at least by wounding
+    them into a fighting mood. The large lion turned and swung
+    along the brow of the hill; the others disappeared over the
+    opposite side, but they soon reappeared some distance farther
+    to the right.</p>
+
+    <p>Little spurts of dirt showed where our bullets were
+    striking. Once I kicked up the ground just under him and once a
+    shot from Stephenson passed so close to his nose that he ducked
+    his head angrily.</p>
+
+    <p>We became frantic with eagerness and continued
+    disappointment. The thought of losing the finest lion we had
+    seen on the whole trip was maddening, yet it seemed impossible
+    to hit him.</p>
+
+    <p>Then he disappeared and probably rejoined his companions in
+    a retreat that led down into the ravine where it wound far away
+    from us. There were patches of reeds in the ravine and it was
+    there that I thought they would hide.</p>
+
+    <p>Sending the carriage in a wide detour, we climbed across a
+    spur of the ravine and tried to pick up the trail. Once I fell
+    upon the rocks that lined the steep sides of the gully and cut
+    my hand so deeply that the scar will always remain as a
+    reminder of that eventful day. Stephenson kept to the top of
+    the ridge, believing that the lions would continue across the
+    ravine; I went into the ravine, thinking they would take cover
+    in the reeds and might be scared out with a shot or two.</p>
+
+    <p>But nothing could be seen of them, and after half an hour we
+    rejoined on the top of the hill, where a wide view of the whole
+    country was revealed.</p>
+
+    <p>We sat down in despair. The greatest chance of the whole
+    trip was gone.</p>
+
+    <p>"That's the last we'll see of them," said I oracularly as I
+    sat upon a stone. My hand was covered with blood, but alas! it
+    was mine and not the lion's.</p>
+
+    <p>The carriage appeared and we held a prolonged consolation
+    meeting. Suddenly our general utility boy, Happy Bill, uttered
+    a low cry of warning. We turned, and there, in the valley ahead
+    of us, the three lions were again seen. They had evidently
+    passed through the reeds without stopping and had continued
+    across only a few yards from where we were now standing.</p>
+
+    <p>Fate seemed determined to give us plenty of chances to get
+    these lions. Again we opened fire on them at about four or five
+    hundred yards. My big-gun ammunition was gone, so I fired with
+    my .256.</p>
+
+    <p>No result! The distance was too great and our bombardment
+    was fruitless. The black-maned lion was in a bad humor and
+    repeatedly turned as if intent to stop and defend his outraged
+    dignity. In a few moments the three lions disappeared in the
+    tall grass that fringed a big reed bed many acres in
+    extent.</p>
+
+    <p>For an hour we raked the reed bed with shot, hoping to drive
+    them from cover. But that was the last we saw of the lions. A
+    little bunch of waterbuck does were scared up, but nothing
+    else. The lions were now safe, for nothing less than fifty
+    beaters could hope to dislodge them from the dense security of
+    the swamp.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p323.png"><img src="images/p323s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: It Would Have Been Historic]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>It Would Have Been Historic</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Talk about dejection! Our ride back to town was as mournful
+    as a ride could be. We thought of the glory of driving through
+    the streets of Nairobi with a lion or two hanging over the back
+    of the carriage. It would have been historic. Citizens would
+    have talked of it for years. It would have taken an honored
+    place in the lion-hunting literature of Africa, for no lion
+    hunters have ever pursued a band of lions in a carriage and
+    brought back a carriage-load of them.</p>
+
+    <p>We almost regretted having had the chance that we so
+    heartbreakingly lost.</p>
+
+    <p>But we told about it when we struck town, and before the day
+    was over it was the topic in hotels and clubs throughout the
+    whole town of Nairobi. Everybody who had a gun was resolved to
+    go out the next day, and interest was at a fever pitch.</p>
+
+    <p>We went out again the following morning, shot at wildebeests
+    at all known ranges, from two hundred yards up to five hundred
+    yards&mdash;but our luck was against us. We came back empty-handed,
+    and our chief reward for the morning's work was the great
+    privilege of seeing both Mount Kenia, ninety miles north, and
+    Kilima-Njaro, nearly two hundred miles southeast, as clear as a
+    cameo against the lovely African sky.</p>
+
+    <p>The lesson of this story is not so much a review of bad
+    shooting or of bad luck. The thing that seems most noteworthy
+    is that within six or seven miles from Nairobi, nearly all the
+    time within sight of the house-tops of that town, we had seen
+    fifteen varieties of wild game, some of which were present in
+    great numbers.</p>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dd>Wildebeest</dd>
+
+      <dd>Hartebeest</dd>
+
+      <dd>Hyena</dd>
+
+      <dd>Jackal</dd>
+
+      <dd>Thompson's Gazelle</dd>
+
+      <dd>Lion</dd>
+
+      <dd>Rabbit</dd>
+
+      <dd>Waterbuck</dd>
+
+      <dd>Impalla</dd>
+
+      <dd>Giant Bustard</dd>
+
+      <dd>Ostrich</dd>
+
+      <dd>Wart-hog</dd>
+
+      <dd>Wild Dog</dd>
+
+      <dd>Steinbuck</dd>
+
+      <dd>Grant's Gazelle</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>Surely there is still some game left in Africa.</p>
+  </div><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2>
+
+    <h3>THE LAST WORD IN LION HUNTING. METHODS OF TRAILING,
+    ENSNARING AND OTHERWISE OUTWITTING THE KING OF BEASTS. A
+    CHAPTER OF ADVENTURES</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">If</span> some one were to start a
+    correspondence course in lion hunting he would give diagrams
+    and instructions showing how to kill a lion in about six
+    different styles&mdash;namely:</p>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dd>The boma method.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The tall grass method.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The riding method.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The tree method.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The lariat method.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The spear method.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>This list does not include the Ananias method, formerly
+    popular.</p>
+
+    <p>The tree and boma methods are much esteemed by those
+    sportsmen who wish to reduce personal danger to the least
+    common denominator&mdash;the sportsmen who think discretion is the
+    better part of valor and a hunter in a tree is worth two in the
+    bush. The sportsman who confines himself to the tree method is
+    entitled to receive a medal "for conspicuous caution in times
+    of danger," and the loved ones at home need never worry about
+    his safe return. For safe lion hunting the "tree" method would
+    get "first prize," while the "boma" method would receive
+    honorable mention.</p>
+
+    <p>The "tall grass" method is less popular in that the lion has
+    some show and often succeeds in getting away to tell about it.
+    It involves danger to all concerned.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p326.png"><img src="images/p326s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Spearing Lions]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Spearing Lions</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The "riding" method is also dangerous, for in it the hunter
+    endeavors to "round up" or "herd" a lion by riding him to a
+    standstill. When the lion is fighting mad he stops and turns
+    upon his persecutors. This is when the obituary columns
+    thrive.</p>
+
+    <p>The "lariat" method is not as yet in general vogue, but I
+    understand that "Buffalo" Jones, an American, succeeded in
+    roping a lion as they rope cattle out west. It sounds
+    diverting.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0745.jpg"><img src="images/img0745s.jpg"
+      alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Dead Lion Is a Sign for Jubilation]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Dead Lion Is a Sign for Jubilation</p><a href=
+      "images/img0649.jpg"><img src="images/img0649s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: A Dethroned King of Beasts]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>A Dethroned King of Beasts</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The "spear" method is that employed by natives, who, armed
+    with spear and shield, surround a lion and then kill it with
+    their spears. They invariably succeed, but not until a few of
+    the spear-bearers are more or less Fletcherized by the lion.
+    This method does not appeal to those who wish to get home to
+    tell about it, and need not be considered at length in any
+    correspondence course.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p327.png"><img src="images/p327s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Tree Method]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Tree Method</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The tree method is comparatively simple. You build a
+    platform in a tree and place a bait near it. Then you wait
+    through the long, silent watches of the night for Felis Leo to
+    appear. The method has few dangers. The chief one lies in
+    falling asleep and tumbling out of the tree, but this is easily
+    obviated by making the platform large enough for two or three
+    men, two of whom may stretch out and sleep while the other one
+    remains awake and keeps guard.</p>
+
+    <p>When I went to Africa I resolved never to climb a tree.
+    Later I resolved to try the tree method in order to get
+    experience in a form of lion hunting that has many advocates
+    among the valiant hunters who want lion skins at no expense to
+    their own.</p>
+
+    <p>Of course, there are some perils connected with this method
+    of lion slaying. Mosquitoes may bite you, causing a dreadful
+    fever that may later result in death in some lingering and
+    costly form. Also the biting ants may pursue you up to your
+    aery perch and take small but effective bites in many itchable
+    but unscratchable points. These elements of danger are about
+    the only ones encountered in the tree method of lion hunting,
+    but then who could expect to kill lions without some degree of
+    personal discomfort?</p>
+
+    <p>My one and only tree experience was not particularly
+    eventful. A large and commodious platform was built in the
+    forks of a great tree in a district where the questing grunt of
+    lions could be heard each night. The platform was comfortable;
+    it only needed hot and cold running water to be a delightful
+    place to spend a tropic night.</p>
+
+    <p>I shot a hartebeest and had it dragged beneath the tree.
+    Then my two native gunbearers and I made a satisfactory ascent
+    to the platform. We had a thermos bottle filled with hot tea,
+    and some odds and ends in the way of solid refreshments. We
+    then stretched out in positions that commanded a view of the
+    hartebeest and waited patiently for an obliging lion to come
+    and be shot.</p>
+
+    <p>Night came on and soon the landscape became shadowy and
+    indistinct. Trees and bushes fused into vague black masses and
+    the carcass of the bait could be located only because it seemed
+    a shade more opaque than the opaque gloom around it. The more
+    you looked at it the more elusive and shifting it seemed. The
+    sights of the rifle were invisible, and the only way one could
+    find the sight was by aiming at a star and then carefully
+    lowering the direction of the weapon until it approximately
+    pointed at the carcass.</p>
+
+    <p>Of course, we were very still; even the stars were not more
+    silent than we. And little by little the noises of an African
+    night were heard, growing in volume until from all sides came
+    the cries of night birds and the songs of insects and
+    tree-toads. It was the apotheosis of loneliness. And thus we
+    sat, with eyes straining to pierce the gloom that hedged us in.
+    We could see no sign of life, yet all about us in those dark
+    shadows there were thousands of creatures moving about on their
+    nightly hunt.</p>
+
+    <p>Suddenly there came the soft crescendo of a hyena's howl
+    some place off in the night. It was answered by another, miles
+    away; then another, far off in a still different direction. The
+    scent of the bait was spreading to the far horizon and the
+    keen-scented carrion-eaters had caught it and were hurrying to
+    the feast.</p>
+
+    <p>Then, after moments of waiting, the howls came from so near
+    that they startled us. There seemed to be dozens of hyenas&mdash;a
+    regular class reunion of them&mdash;yet not one could be seen in the
+    "murky gloom." And then, a moment later, we heard the crunching
+    of teeth and the slither of rending flesh, and we knew that a
+    supper party of hyenas was gathered about the festal board
+    below us. I was afraid that they would eat up the carcass and
+    thus keep away the lions, so I fired a shot to scare them away.
+    There was a quick rush of feet&mdash;then that dense, expectant
+    silence once more. Soon some little jackals came and were
+    shooed away. Then more hyenas came, were given their
+    cong&eacute;, and hurried off to the tall grass. And yet no
+    lion. It was quite disappointing.</p>
+
+    <p>At midnight, far off to the north, came the grunting voice
+    of a lion. I waited eagerly for the next sound which would
+    indicate whether the lure of the bait was beckoning him on. And
+    soon the sound came, this time much nearer, and after a long
+    silence there was a sharp, snarling grunt of a lion, followed
+    by the panic-stricken rush of a hundred heavy hoofs. The
+    conjunction of sounds told the story as definitely as if the
+    whole scene lay bared to view. The lion had leaped upon a
+    hartebeest, probably instantly breaking its neck, while the
+    rest of the herd had galloped away in terror. And it had all
+    happened within two or three hundred yards of the tree&mdash;yet
+    nothing could be seen.</p>
+
+    <p>At two o'clock the grunt of a lion was again heard far off
+    to the south. It came steadily toward us, and at last there was
+    no doubt about its destination. It was coming to the bait. How
+    my eyes strained to pierce the darkness and how breathlessly I
+    waited with rifle in readiness! But the lion only paused at the
+    bait, and as I waited for it to settle down to its feast it
+    went grunting away and the chance was gone. Perhaps it had
+    already fed, or perhaps it was an unusually fastidious lion
+    which desired to do its own killing.</p>
+
+    <p>An hour or two later, both gunbearers asleep and one snoring
+    peacefully, I became aware of a large animal feeding at the
+    bait. Although no sound had preceded its coming, I thought it
+    might be a lion, but feared that it was a hyena. I fired at the
+    dark, shifting, black shadow and the roar of the big rifle
+    shattered the silence like a clap of unexpected thunder. Then
+    there was such a dense silence that it seemed to ring in one's
+    ears.</p>
+
+    <p>Had I hit or missed? That could not be decided until
+    daybreak, for it is the height of folly to climb down from a
+    tree to feel the pulse of a wounded lion.</p>
+
+    <p>When daybreak came we made an investigation. Only the
+    mangled remains of the carcass lay below. Later in the day some
+    members of our party came across the dead body of a hyena lying
+    about a hundred yards from the tree, partly hidden by a little
+    clump of bushes. Its backbone was shattered by a .475
+    bullet.</p>
+
+    <p>Thus ended my first and only adventure in the "tree
+    method."</p>
+
+    <p>The boma method is slightly more dangerous and much more
+    exciting. A lot of thorn branches are twisted together in a
+    little circle, within which the hunter sits and waits for his
+    lion. As in the tree method, a bait is placed near the boma,
+    twelve or fifteen yards away, and a little loophole is arranged
+    in the tangle of thorn branches through which the rifle may be
+    trained upon the bait.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p332.png"><img src="images/p332s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Boma Method]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Boma Method</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The lion can not get into the boma unless he jumps up and
+    comes in from the top. It is the function of the hunter to
+    prevent this strategic man&oelig;uver by killing the lion
+    before he gets in. If he does not, he is likely to find himself
+    engaged in a spirited hand-to-hand fight with an unfriendly
+    lion in a space about as big as the upper berth of a
+    sleeping-car.</p>
+
+    <p>My first boma was a meshwork of thorns piled and interwoven
+    together with the architectural simplicity of an Eskimo igloo.
+    When it was finished there didn't seem to be the ghost of a
+    chance of a lion getting in; but at night, as I looked out, it
+    seemed frail indeed. Some dry grass was piled inside, with
+    blankets spread over it to prevent rustling; and when night
+    came we three, myself and two gunbearers, wormed our way in and
+    then pulled some pieces of brush into the opening after us. The
+    rifles were sighted on the bait while it was still daylight and
+    at a spot where the expected lion might appear. Then we
+    waited.</p>
+
+    <p>The customary nocturne by birds, beasts and insects began
+    before long, and several times hyenas and jackals came to the
+    bait, but no lions. The boma was on the edge of a great swamp,
+    miles in extent and a great rendezvous for game of many kinds.
+    Theoretically, there couldn't be a better place to expect
+    lions, but nary a lion appeared that night.</p>
+
+    <p>Upon a later occasion&mdash;Christmas night, it was&mdash;I watched
+    from a boma near an elephant we had killed, but except for the
+    distant grunting of lions, there was nothing important to
+    chronicle.</p>
+
+    <p>Lion hunting goes by luck. One man may sit in a boma night
+    after night without getting a shot, while another may go out
+    once and bring back a black-mane. I spent two nights in a boma
+    without seeing a lion; Stephenson spent seven nights and saw
+    only a lioness. He held his fire in the expectation that the
+    male was with her and would soon appear. Presently a huge beast
+    appeared, vague in the dark shadows; he thought it was the male
+    lion, shot, and the next morning found a large dead hyena.</p>
+
+    <p>Mrs. Akeley went out only once, had a night of thrilling
+    experiences, and killed a large male lion. The lion appeared
+    early in the evening and her first shot just grazed the
+    backbone. An inch higher and it would have missed, but as it
+    was, the mere grazing of the backbone paralyzed the animal,
+    preventing its escape. All night long it crouched helplessly
+    before them, twelve yards away, insane with rage and fury. Its
+    roars were terrifying. A number of times she shot, but in the
+    darkness none of the many hits reached a vital spot. Once in
+    the night two other lions came, but escaped after being fired
+    at.</p>
+
+    <p>As soon as daylight appeared and she could see the sights of
+    her rifle she easily killed the lion. It was the largest one of
+    the eleven killed in our hunting trip, and was killed with a
+    little .256 Mannlicher, the same weapon with which she shot her
+    record elephant on Mount Kenia.</p>
+
+    <p>In the tall-grass method, native beaters are sent in long
+    skirmish line through swamps and such places as lions like to
+    lay up in during the hours of daylight. The beaters chant a
+    weird and rather musical refrain as they advance and thrash the
+    high reeds with their sticks. Reedbuck, sometimes a bushbuck,
+    frequently hyenas, and many large owls are driven out of nearly
+    every good-sized swamp. The hunters divide, one or more on each
+    side of the swamp and slightly ahead of the line of beaters. As
+    the lion springs out it is up to the hunter nearest to it to
+    meet it with the traditional unerring shot.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0747.jpg"><img src="images/img0747s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: The Tree Method of Lion Shooting]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Tree Method of Lion Shooting</p><a href=
+      "images/img0651a.jpg"><img src="images/img0651as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Dragged a Zebra to the Boma]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Dragged a Zebra to the Boma</p><a href=
+      "images/img0651b.jpg"><img src="images/img0651bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Rifle Was Sighted on the Bait]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Rifle Was Sighted on the Bait</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In our experience we beat dozens of swamps and reed beds.
+    Stephenson would take one side of the swamp, I the other, while
+    Akeley with his moving-picture machine, would take the side
+    best suited to photographic purposes. He got some wonderful
+    results, two of which were records of the death of two
+    lionesses.</p>
+
+    <p>Upon the first of these occasions the beaters had worked
+    down a long stretch of swamp and had almost reached the end.
+    Suddenly they showed an agitated interest in something in front
+    of them. They thought it was a lion until an innocent
+    by-stander made an unauthorized guess that it was a hyena. This
+    reassured the beaters and they advanced boldly in the belief
+    that it was a harmless hyena. My valor rose in proportion and
+    for the same reason, and I strolled bravely over to the edge of
+    the reeds where a little opening appeared. It was something of
+    a shock to see two lions stroll suddenly into view. I fired,
+    hitting the last one. Then they both disappeared in the reeds
+    ahead.</p>
+
+    <p>It was amazing to note the sudden epidemic of caution upon
+    the part of all concerned. The beaters refused to advance until
+    Stephenson joined them with his big rifle. I moved forward on
+    the side lines and the moving-picture machine reeled off yards
+    of film.</p>
+
+    <p>A man has to appear brave when a camera is turned on him,
+    but with two lions a few feet away there was not a tendency to
+    advance with that impetuous dash that one would like to see in
+    a moving picture of oneself. Anyway, I tried to keep up an
+    appearance of advancing without actually covering much
+    territory.</p>
+
+    <p>One of my gunbearers suddenly clutched my arm and pointed
+    into the reeds. There, only a few feet away, was the tawny
+    figure of a lion, either lying down or crouching. I fired and
+    nearly blew its head off. It was the one I had wounded a few
+    minutes before.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p336.png"><img src="images/p336s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Photographed in Times of Danger]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Photographed in Times of Danger</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There was still the other lion in the reeds. So I joined the
+    beaters while Stephenson came out and took a commanding
+    position at the side of the reeds. In a moment or two there was
+    a tawny flash and the lion was seen as it broke from the reeds
+    and sprang away up the hill. It was on the opposite side of the
+    reeds from Stephenson, but his first shot hit it and it stopped
+    and turned angrily. In another instant it would have charged,
+    but a second shot from his rifle killed it instantly. Both of
+    the animals were young lionesses of the same age and nearly
+    full grown.</p>
+
+    <p>Sometimes, when a lion is driven to bay in the tall grass at
+    the end of a swamp, the beaters refuse to advance, and it then
+    becomes necessary for the hunter to go in and take the lead. An
+    occasion of this sort was among the most thrilling of my
+    African experiences.</p>
+
+    <p>An immense swamp had been beaten out and nothing had
+    developed until the beaters were almost at the end of the
+    swamp. Extending from the end and joining it was a patch of
+    wire-like reeds, eight or ten feet high and covering two or
+    three acres. This high grass was almost impenetrable by a man,
+    and it was only possible to go through it by throwing one's
+    weight forward and crushing down the dense growth. The grass
+    grew from hummocks, between which were deep water channels. An
+    animal could glide through these channels, but a man must
+    batter his way through the stockade of dense grass that spread
+    out above.</p>
+
+    <p>It was in this place that the lion was first heard and the
+    beaters refused to follow it in. Guttural grunts and snarls
+    came from that uninviting jungle, and we knew that the only way
+    to force the lion out was to go in and drive it out.</p>
+
+    <p>At about this time another lion came out of the swamp behind
+    and loped up the hill. The saises were sent galloping after it
+    to round it up, but they reappeared after a few moments and
+    reported that it had got away in the direction of a huge swamp
+    a mile or so beyond. We began to think we had struck a nest of
+    lions.</p>
+
+    <p>Then we went in to drive out that lion in the deep grass.
+    The native beaters, encouraged by seeing armed white men
+    leading the way, came along with renewed enthusiasm. That grass
+    was something terrible. One would hardly care to go through it
+    if he knew that a bag of gold or a fairy princess awaited him
+    beyond; with a lion there, the delight of the job became
+    immeasurably less. We could not see three feet ahead. From time
+    to time we were floundering down into channels of water hidden
+    by the density of the grass. Some of these channels were two
+    feet deep. And with each yard of advance came the realization
+    that we were coming to an inevitable show-down with that lion.
+    Akeley and I were in with the beaters, Stephenson was beyond
+    the patch of grass to intercept the lion should it break forth,
+    from cover.</p>
+
+    <p>It was not until we had nearly traversed the entire patch of
+    reeds that the lion was found. It evidently lay silently ahead
+    of us until we were almost upon it. Then, almost beneath my
+    feet, came the angry and ominous growl, and my Somali gunbearer
+    leaped in terror, falling as he did so. I expected to see a
+    long, lean flash of yellow body and to experience the sensation
+    of being mauled by a lion. All was breathlessly silent for a
+    moment. Then a shot from Stephenson's rifle said that the lion
+    had burst from the reeds and into view.</p>
+
+    <p>We pushed our way out to see what had happened.</p>
+
+    <p>The lion had come out, then turned suddenly back into the
+    cover of reeds, working its way along the front of the beaters.
+    For an instant Stephenson saw it and fired into the grass ahead
+    of it without result.</p>
+
+    <p>The track of the lion was followed, but the animal had
+    succeeded in getting around the beaters and back into the
+    swamp. Fires were lighted, but the reeds were too green to burn
+    except in occasional spots.</p>
+
+    <p>A few minutes later the saises, posted like sentinels high
+    on the hills that flanked the swamp, saw the lion again and
+    galloped down to head it off. It left the swamp and continued
+    on down the rush-lined banks of a stream, zigzagging its way
+    back and forth. After a pursuit of a couple of miles it was
+    cornered in a small patch of reeds. Further retreat was
+    impossible and it knew that it had to fight.</p>
+
+    <p>The moving-picture machine was set up on one side and I was
+    detailed to guard that side. If the lion came out it was to be
+    allowed to charge a certain distance, within forty feet, before
+    I was to fire. If it didn't charge at us, but attempted to
+    escape, it was to be allowed to run across the strip of open
+    ground in front of the camera before I was to shoot.</p>
+
+    <p>Stephenson took his place on the other bank, twenty-five or
+    thirty yards from the edge of the reeds. Then the beaters were
+    told to advance, and they moved forward, throwing rocks and
+    sticks into the reeds ahead of them. The lion appeared on
+    Stephenson's side. Like a flash it sprang out. He fired and the
+    lion stopped momentarily under the impact of a heavy ball. Then
+    it sprang a few yards onward, when a second shot laid it out.
+    The last shot was fired at less than twenty yards.</p>
+
+    <p>The moving-picture machine recorded the thrilling scene and
+    there was an hour of great rejoicing and jubilation. The animal
+    was an old lioness and the first shot had torn her lower jaw
+    away and had gone into the shoulder. It is amazing that she was
+    not instantly killed&mdash;but that's a way lions have. They never
+    know when to quit.</p>
+  </div><a name="XX" id="XX"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XX</h2>
+
+    <h3>ABDULLAH THE COOK AND SOME INTERESTING GASTRONOMICAL
+    EXPERIENCES. THIRTEEN TRIBES REPRESENTED IN THE SAFARI. ABDI'S
+    STORY OF HIS UNCLE AND THE LIONS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">Our</span> cook was a dark-complexioned man
+    between whom and the ace of spades there was considerable
+    rivalry. He was of that deadly night shade. He was the darkest
+    spot on the Dark Continent. After dark he blended in with the
+    night so that you couldn't tell which was cook and which was
+    night.</p>
+
+    <p>His name was Abdullah, his nature was mild and gentle, and
+    his skill in his own particular sphere of action was worthy of
+    honorable mention by all refined eaters. He was about fifty or
+    sixty years of age, five feet tall, with a smile varying from
+    four to six inches from tip to tip. It was a smile that came
+    often, and when really unfurled to its greatest width it gave
+    the pleasing effect of a dark face ambushed behind a row of
+    white tombstones.</p>
+
+    <p>When Abdullah joined our <em>safari</em> it was freely
+    predicted that he would do well for the first month or so,
+    after which he would fade away to rank mediocrity; but,
+    strangely enough, he became better and better as time went on,
+    and during our last two weeks was springing culinary coups that
+    excited intense interest on our part. He had a way of
+    assembling a few odds and ends together that finally merged
+    into a rice pudding par excellence, while his hot cakes were so
+    good that we spoke of them in rapt, reverential whispers. There
+    wasn't a twinge of indigestion in a "three by six" stack of
+    them, and when flooded with a crown of liquid honey they made
+    one think of paradise and angels' choruses.</p>
+
+    <p>Quite naturally, in my wanderings of nine months there were
+    moments when my thoughts dwelt upon such material things as
+    "vittles," and it was instructive to compare the various kinds
+    of food served on a dozen ships, a score of hotels, and a
+    hundred camps. Some were good and some were bad, but as viewed
+    in calm retrospect I think that Abdullah excelled all other
+    chefs, taking him day in and day out.</p>
+
+    <p>Upon only three occasions was he vanquished, but these were
+    memorable ones. As food is a pleasant topic, perhaps I may be
+    pardoned if I dwell fondly upon these three red-letter days in
+    my memory.</p>
+
+    <p>One was in Paris. The night that we started for Africa a
+    merry little company dined at Henry's. That distinguished
+    master was given <em>carte blanche</em> to get up the best
+    dinner known to culinary science, and he had a day's start.
+    Everything was delicious. The dinner was a symphony, starting
+    in a low key and gradually working up in a stirring crescendo
+    until the third course, where it reached supreme heights in
+    climacteric effect. That third course, if done in music, would
+    have sent men cheering to the cannon's mouth or galloping
+    joyously in a desperate cavalry charge.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0749.jpg"><img src="images/img0749s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: One of Our Askaris]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>One of Our Askaris</p><a href=
+      "images/img0653.jpg"><img src="images/img0653s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Hassan Mohammed]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Hassan Mohammed</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The dish was called "poulet archduc," although I should have
+    called it at least poulet archangel. In this divine creation
+    Henry reached the Nirvana of good things to eat. I beseeched
+    him for the recipe, which he cheerfully wrote out, so now I am
+    happy to pass it along that all may try it. It really ought to
+    be dramatized.</p>
+
+    <p>I transcribe it in M. Henry's own verbiage:</p>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dd>The chicken must be well cleaned inside. Next put in it
+      some butter, salt and pepper, a little paprika, and into full
+      of sweet corn, then close the chicken. Next put it in a
+      saucepan with other more sweet corn, against butter, salt,
+      pepper, a little whisky; cook about half of one hour.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The best sweet corn is the California sweet corn in
+      can.</dd>
+
+      <dd>The sauce is done with white of chicken. Squeeze two
+      yolks of eggs and butter like for a sauce mousseline and
+      finish it with a little whisky.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>And there you are.</p>
+
+    <p>The second occasion came some months later. We had been on
+    <em>safari</em> for several weeks and had returned to Nairobi
+    for two or three days. It was the "psychological moment" for
+    something new in the way of food. The stage was all set for it,
+    and it came in the form of a pudding that would have delighted
+    all the gastronomes and epicures of history. We called it the
+    Newland-Tarlton pudding, because it was the joint creation of
+    Mrs. Newland and Mrs. Tarlton. One wrote the poetry in it and
+    the other set it to music. We ate it so thoroughly that the
+    plates looked as clean as new. Cuninghame was there, dressed up
+    for the first time in months, and the way that pudding
+    disappeared behind his burly beard was suggestive of the magic
+    of Kellar or Herrmann.</p>
+
+    <p>The recipe of this pudding is worthy of export to the United
+    States, so here it is. It really is a combination of two
+    puddings, served together and eaten at the same time.</p>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>THE NEWLAND BANANA CUSTARD</dt>
+
+      <dd>Boil three large cupfuls of milk. Mix a tablespoonful of
+      corn flour with a little cold milk just to make it into a
+      paste. Add four eggs well beaten and mix together with three
+      tablespoonfuls of sugar. Put into the boiled milk and stir
+      until it thickens, but don't let it boil. When taken off add
+      one teaspoonful of vanilla essence. Cut up ten bananas and
+      put in a dish. Pour custard on when cool.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>PRUNE SHAPE (A LA TARLTON)</dt>
+
+      <dd>Stew one-half pound prunes until quite soft. Remove
+      stones and cut prunes small. Dissolve one-half ounce gelatin
+      and add to one-quarter pound sugar, prunes, and kernels. Pour
+      into wetted mold to cool, first adding one-half glass of
+      sherry. Must be served with banana cream (the Newland).</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>The third occasion made memorable by a delicious
+    epoch-making dish I shall not specify, as we have dined with
+    many friends during the last nine months. Let it be sufficient
+    if I say that it was at one of these dinners or luncheons.</p>
+
+    <p>In our varied gastronomical experiences we found that the
+    cooking on the English ships was usually bad, while that on the
+    German ships was good, excepting the ship that took us from
+    Naples to Mombasa. The Dutch ships were the best of all and the
+    Dutch hotels in Java were the best we struck outside of Paris
+    and London. In comparison with the Hotel des Indes, in Batavia,
+    all the rest of the hotels of the Orient can be mentioned only
+    in a furtive way. It was a revelation of excellence, in perfect
+    keeping with the charm and beauty of Java as a whole.</p>
+
+    <p>But we were speaking of things to eat.</p>
+
+    <p>At the Hotel des Indes they served us a modest little dish
+    called rice tafel, or "rijs-tafel." You have to go to luncheon
+    early in order to eat it before dinner time. It was served by
+    twenty-four waiters, marching in single file, the line
+    extending from the kitchen to the table and then returning by a
+    different line of march to the kitchen. It was fifteen minutes
+    passing a given point. Each waiter carried a dish containing
+    one of the fifty-seven ingredients of the grand total of the
+    rice tafel. You helped yourself with one arm until that got
+    tired, then used the other. When you were all ready to begin
+    your plate looked like a rice-covered bunker on a golf
+    course.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p346.png"><img src="images/p346s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Rice Tafel in Java]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Rice Tafel in Java</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Rice tafel is a famous dish in Java. It is served at tiffin,
+    and after you have eaten it you waddle to your room in a
+    congested state and sleep it off. After my first rice tafel I
+    dreamed I was a log jam and that lumber jacks with cant hooks
+    were trying to pry me apart.</p>
+
+    <p>As the recipe for rice tafel is not to be found in any cook
+    book on account of its length, we give it here even if you
+    won't believe it. To a large heap of rice add the
+    following:</p>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>MEAT AND FISH</dt>
+
+      <dd>Spiced beef, deviled soup meat, both fried with cocoanut
+      shreds.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Minced pork, baked.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Fried fish, soused fish, and baked fish.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Fried oysters and whitebait.</dd>
+
+      <dt>SPICES</dt>
+
+      <dd>Red fish.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Deviled shrimps, chutney.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Deviled pistachio nuts.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Deviled onions sliced with pimentos.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Deviled chicken giblets.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Deviled banana tuft.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Pickled cucumbers.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Cucumber plain (to cool the palate after hot
+      ingredients).</dd>
+
+      <dt>FOWL, FRUIT, ETC.</dt>
+
+      <dd>Roast chicken, plain.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Steamed chicken with chilis.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Monkey nuts fried in paste.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Flour chips with fish lime (called grapak and
+      kripak).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Fried brinjals without the seeds.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Fried bananas.</dd>
+
+      <dt>JUICES</dt>
+
+      <dd>Yellow&mdash;(One) of curry powder with chicken giblets and
+      bouillon.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Brown&mdash;(Two) of celery, haricot beans, leeks and young
+      cabbage.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>One quart of American pale ale to drink during the "rice
+    tafel."</p>
+
+    <p>Our cook Abdullah was not the only interesting type in our
+    <em>safari</em>. Among our dusky colleagues there were thirteen
+    different tribes represented. It was a congress of nations and
+    a babel of tongues. Some of the porters became conspicuous
+    figures early in the march, while some were so lacking in
+    individuality that they seemed like new-comers even after four
+    months out.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p348.png"><img src="images/p348s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The &quot;Chantecler&quot; of Our Safari]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The "Chantecler" of Our Safari</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Of this latter class Hassan Mohammed was not one.</p>
+
+    <p>Hassan was my chief gunbearer, and for pious devotion to the
+    Mohammedan faith he was second to none. He was the "Chantecler"
+    of our outfit. Every morning at four o'clock, regardless of the
+    weather, he would crawl out of his tent, drape himself in a
+    white sheet, and cry out his prayers to Mecca. It was his voice
+    that woke the camp, and the immediate answer to his prayers was
+    sometimes quite irreverent, especially from the Wakamba
+    porters, who were accustomed to sit up nearly all night
+    gambling.</p>
+
+    <p>Hassan was a Somali, strictly honest and faithful. He had
+    the Somali's love of a rupee, and there was no danger or
+    hardship that he would not undergo in the hope of backsheesh.
+    It is the African custom to backsheesh everybody when a lion is
+    killed, so consequently the Somalis were always looking for
+    lions. Perhaps he also prayed for them each morning.</p>
+
+    <p>When we started we had four Somali gunbearers, each of whom
+    rose at dawn to pray. As we got up in the high altitudes, where
+    the mornings were bitter cold, the number of suppliants
+    dwindled down to one, and Hassan was the sole survivor. No cold
+    or rain or early rising could cool the fierce religious ardor
+    that burned within him.</p>
+
+    <p>Long before daybreak we would hear his voice raised in a
+    singsong prayer full of strange runs and weird minors. The
+    lions that roared and grunted near the camp would pause in
+    wonder and then steal away as the sound of Hassan's devotions
+    rang out through the chilly, dew-laden dawn. And as if fifteen
+    minutes of morning prayer was not enough to keep him even with
+    his religious obligations, he went through two more long
+    recitals in the afternoon and at night.</p>
+
+    <p>I sometimes thought that behind his fervent ardor there was
+    a considerable pride in his voice, for he introduced many
+    interesting by-products of harmony that sounded more or less
+    extraneous to both music and prayer. Nevertheless, Hassan was
+    consistent. He never lied, he never stole, and it was part of
+    his personal creed of honor to stand by his master in case of
+    danger. Somali gunbearers are a good deal of a nuisance about a
+    camp, partly because they are the aristocrats of Africa and
+    demand large salaries, but chiefly because they require certain
+    kinds of food that their religion requires them to eat. This is
+    often difficult to secure when far from sources of supplies,
+    and in consequence the equilibrium of camp harmony is sorely
+    disturbed.</p>
+
+    <p>They are avaricious and money loving to a deplorable degree,
+    but there is one thing that can be said for the Somali. He will
+    never desert in time of danger and will cheerfully sacrifice
+    himself for his master. He has the stamina of a higher type of
+    civilization, and in comparison to him the lately reclaimed
+    savage is not nearly so dependable in a crisis.</p>
+
+    <p>I sometimes suspected that Hassan was not really a
+    gunbearer, but was merely a "camel man" who was tempted from
+    his flocks by the high pay that African gunbearers receive.
+    Notwithstanding this, he was courageous, faithful, willing,
+    honest, good at skinning, and personally an agreeable companion
+    during the months that we were together. I got to like him and
+    often during our rests after long hours afield we would talk of
+    our travels and adventures.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0751.jpg"><img src="images/img0751s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Jumma, the Tent Boy]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Jumma, the Tent Boy</p><a href=
+      "images/img0655.jpg"><img src="images/img0655s.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Abdullah, the Cook]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Abdullah, the Cook</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>One day we stopped at the edge of the Molo River. A little
+    bridge crossed the stream and I remembered that the equator is
+    supposed to pass directly across the middle of this bridge. It
+    struck me as being quite noteworthy, so I tried to tell Hassan
+    all about it. I was hampered somewhat because he didn't know
+    that the world was round, but after some time I got him to
+    agree to that fact. Then by many illustrations I endeavored to
+    describe the equator and told him it crossed the bridge. He got
+    up and looked, but seemed unconvinced as well as unimpressed.
+    Then I told him that it was an imaginary line that ran around
+    the world right where it was fullest&mdash;half way between the
+    north pole and the south pole. He brightened up at this and
+    hastened to tell me that he had heard of the north pole from a
+    man on a French ship. As I persevered in my geographical
+    lecture he gradually became detached from my point of view, and
+    when we finished I was talking equator and he was talking about
+    a friend of his who had once been to Rotterdam.</p>
+
+    <p>The lecture was a "draw." But I noticed with satisfaction
+    that when we walked across the bridge he looked furtively
+    between each crack as if expecting to see something.</p>
+
+    <p>It was rather a curious thing, speaking of Hassan, to
+    observe the respect with which the other natives treated his
+    daily religious devotions. He was the only one in camp who
+    prayed&mdash;at least openly&mdash;and as he knelt and bowed and went
+    through the customary form of a Mohammedan prayer there was
+    never the slightest disposition to make fun of him. In a camp
+    of one hundred white men I feel sure that one of them who
+    prayed aloud three times a day would hardly have escaped a good
+    deal of irreverent ridicule from those about him. The natives
+    in our camp never dreamed of questioning Hassan's right to
+    worship in any way he pleased and the life and activities of
+    the camp flowed along smoothly as if unconscious of the
+    white-robed figure whose voice sang out his praises of Allah.
+    The whole camp seemed to have a deep respect for Hassan.</p>
+
+    <p>Abdi, our head-man, was also a Somali, but of a different
+    tribe. He was from Jubaland and had lived many years with white
+    men. In all save color he was more white than black. He was
+    handsome, good-tempered, efficient, and so kind to his men that
+    sometimes the discipline of the camp suffered because of it. It
+    was Abdi's duty to direct the porters in their work of moving
+    camp, distributing loads, pitching camp, getting wood for the
+    big camp-fires, punishing delinquents and, in fact, to see that
+    the work of the <em>safari</em> was done.</p>
+
+    <p>One night after we had been most successful in a big lion
+    hunt during the day Abdi came to the mess tent, where we were
+    lingering over a particularly good dinner. Abdi asked for his
+    orders for the following day and then, seeing that we were in a
+    talkative mood, he stopped a while to join in the stories of
+    lion hunting.</p>
+
+    <p>After a time he told two of his own that he had brought from
+    his boyhood home in Jubaland. They were so remarkable that you
+    don't have to believe them unless you want to.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p353.png"><img src="images/p353s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Abdi's Uncle and the Man-Eaters]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Abdi's Uncle and the Man-Eaters</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>ABDI'S STORY ABOUT HIS UNCLE AND THE LIONS</dt>
+
+      <dd>"Once upon a time my uncle, who was a great runner,
+      encountered six man-eating lions sitting in the road. He took
+      his spear and tried to kill them, but they divided, three on
+      each side of the road. So he took to his heels. To the next
+      town it was twelve hours' march, but he ran it in ten hours,
+      the lions in hot pursuit every minute of the time. When he
+      reached the town he jumped over the thorn bush zareba, and
+      the lions, close behind him, jumped over after him and were
+      killed by his spear, one after the other."</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>ABDI'S STORY ABOUT THE WILY SOMALI AND THE LION</dt>
+
+      <dd>"Once upon a time there was a Somali who was warned not
+      to go down a certain road on account of the man-eating lions.
+      But he started out, armed with knife and spear. For a week he
+      marched, sleeping in the trees at night and marching during
+      the day. One day he suddenly came upon a big lion sitting in
+      the road. He stopped, sharpening a little stick which he held
+      in his left hand. Then he wrapped his 'tobe' or blanket
+      around his left hand and arm. He then advanced to the lion
+      and when it opened its mouth to bite him he thrust the sharp
+      stick inside, up and down, thus gagging the lion. Then with
+      his two hands he held the lion by its ears for three days. He
+      couldn't let go because the lion would maul him with its
+      heavy paws. He was thus in quite a fix.</dd>
+
+      <dd>
+        <div class="c1">
+          <a href="images/p354.png"><img src="images/p354s.png"
+          alt="[Drawing: He Hastily Cut a Stick]" border="0" /></a>
+
+          <p><em>He Hastily Cut a Stick</em></p>
+        </div>
+      </dd>
+
+      <dd>"Finally another Somali came along and he asked the
+      new-comer to hold the lion while he killed it with his spear.
+      The other Somali consented and seized the lion by the ears.
+      Then the first Somali laughed long and loud and said, 'I've
+      held him three days, now you hold him three days.' Then he
+      strolled down the road and disappeared. For seven days the
+      second Somali held the lion and then by the same subterfuge
+      turned it over to a third Somali. By this time the lion was
+      pretty tired, so after one day the Somali shook the lion hard
+      and then took out his knife and stabbed it to death."</dd>
+    </dl>
+    <hr class="c10" width="50%" />
+
+    <p>Sulimani was my second gunbearer. His name wasn't Sulimani,
+    but some one gave him that name because his own Kikuyu name was
+    too hard to pronounce and impossible to remember. Sulimani was
+    quite a study. He had the savage's love of snuff, and when not
+    eating or sleeping he was taking pinches of that narcotic from
+    an old kodak tin. In consequence he had the chronic appearance
+    of being full of dope. He walked along as though in a trance.
+    He never seemed to be looking anywhere except at the stretch of
+    trail directly in front of him. His thoughts were far away, or
+    else there were no thoughts at all. I often watched him and
+    wondered what he was thinking about.</p>
+
+    <p>Sulimani was really one of the best natural hunters in the
+    whole <em>safari</em>. He had a native instinct for tracking
+    that was wonderful; he had courage that was fatalistic, and he
+    seemed to know what an animal would do and where it would go
+    under certain conditions. Beneath that dopy somnolence of
+    manner his senses were alert and his eyes were usually the
+    first to see distant game.</p>
+
+    <p>He had originally been a porter when we started out, but I
+    gave him a new suit of khaki and promoted him to the position
+    of second gunbearer. As long as we were in touch with
+    civilization he kept that khaki suit in a condition of
+    spotlessness, but when we got out in the wilds, away from the
+    girls, it soon became stiff with blood-stains and dirt. The
+    natural savage instinct became predominant; he reverted to
+    type.</p>
+
+    <p>His jaunty red fez was replaced by a headgear made of the
+    beautiful skin of a Uganda cob. Ostrich and maribou feathers
+    stuck out from the top, while upon his feet were sandals made
+    from the thick skin of a waterbuck. A zebra tail was fashioned
+    into a sheath for his skinning-knife, so that, little by
+    little, he resolved himself back into a condition of savage
+    splendor. He usually did most of my skinning, and that being
+    dirty work, I was disposed to be tolerant with the disgraceful
+    condition of his khaki suit.</p>
+
+    <p>Finally we approached civilization once more, and I told
+    Sulimani that he'd have to clean up, otherwise the girls
+    wouldn't like him. I gave him half a day off to wash his
+    clothes, and he dutifully disappeared from society for that
+    period. When he once more turned up he was resplendent in his
+    clean clothes. As we marched along toward Nairobi he broke his
+    long silence by bursting into song. For a day or two it was the
+    wonder of the camp, but he was quite unconscious of it. Music
+    was in his soul and the germ of love was churning it up. And so
+    he sang as he marched along, and his thoughts were racing ahead
+    of him to the "sing sing" girls who wait in Nairobi for
+    returning porters with rupees to spend.</p>
+
+    <p>The general average of health in the <em>safari</em> was
+    high. Only one porter died in the four months or more that we
+    were out. But in spite of the low mortality there were many
+    cases that came up for treatment. Akeley, with his long
+    experience as a hunter and explorer, acted as the health
+    department of the camp. His three or four remedies for all ills
+    were quinine, calomel, witch-hazel, and zinc oxide adhesive
+    plaster. And it was simply amazing what those four things could
+    do when applied to the naturally healthy constitutions of the
+    blacks. He cured a bowed tendon with witch-hazel and adhesive
+    plaster in three or four days. A white man would have gone to a
+    hospital for weeks.</p>
+
+    <p>There were two common complaints. One was fever, but the
+    fiercest fever took to its heels when charged by General
+    Quinine and General Calomel. The other and more common
+    complaint rose from abrasions and cuts. There was always a
+    string of porters lined up for treatment and each went away
+    happy with large pieces of adhesive plaster decorating his
+    ebony skin. A simple piece of this plaster cured the worst and
+    most inflamed cut, and it was seldom that a man came back for a
+    second treatment. The plaster remained on until, weeks
+    afterward, it fell off from sheer weariness.</p>
+
+    <p>And once in a while there would be knife wounds, for
+    whenever we killed a zebra as meat for the porters there would
+    be a frenzied fight over the body. Each man, with knife out,
+    was fighting for the choice pieces. It was like a scrimmage of
+    human vultures&mdash;fighting, clawing, slashing and rending, with
+    blood and meat flying about in a horrifying manner. I used to
+    marvel that many were not killed, because each one was armed
+    with a knife and each one was frenzied with savage greed.
+    However, only once in a while did we have to treat the injured
+    from this cause. Two men could fight for ten minutes over a
+    piece of meat or a bone, but when finally the ownership was
+    settled the victor could toss his meat to the ground with the
+    certainty that no one else would take it.</p>
+
+    <p>Jumma was my tent boy&mdash;a Wakamba with filed teeth. Jumma is
+    the Swahili word for Friday and is about as common a name in
+    East Africa as John is in white communities. I suppose I ought
+    to call him "my man Friday," but he was so dignified that no
+    one would dream of taking such a liberty with him. Jumma's
+    thoughts ran to clothes. He wore a neat khaki suit&mdash;blouse and
+    "shorts," a pair of blue puttees, a pair of stout shoes, and a
+    dazzling red fez, from which sprang a long waving ostrich
+    feather. My key ring hung at his belt, while around his wrist a
+    neat watch was fastened. The longest march, through mud and
+    rain and wind and sun, would find him as trim and clean at the
+    finish as though he had just stepped out of a bandbox. Jumma
+    had the happy faculty of never looking rumpled, a trick which I
+    tried hard to learn, but all in vain. He was as black as ebony,
+    yet his features were like those of a Caucasian; in fact, he
+    strikingly resembled an old Chicago friend.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0753.jpg"><img src="images/img0753s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Sulimani&mdash;Second Gunbearer]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Sulimani&mdash;Second Gunbearer</p><a href=
+      "images/img0657a.jpg"><img src="images/img0657as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Mess Tent]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Mess Tent</p><a href="images/img0657b.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0657bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Where the Equator Crosses the Molo]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Where the Equator Crosses the Molo</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Among our porters there were many types of features, and in
+    a curious way many of them resembled people we had known at
+    home. One porter had the eyes and expression of a young
+    north-side girl; another had the walk and features of a
+    prominent young Chicago man; and so on.</p>
+
+    <p>Saa Sitaa was one of our brightest porters. His name means
+    "Six O'clock" in Swahili, six o'clock in the native reckoning
+    being our noon and our midnight. Just why he was given this
+    significant name I never discovered. Perhaps he was born at
+    that hour. It always used to amuse me to hear Abdi calling out,
+    "<em>Enjani hapa, Saa Sitaa</em>"&mdash;"Come here, Six
+    O'clock."</p>
+
+    <p>Baa Baa was a porter who always used to sing a queer native
+    chant in which those words were predominant. He would sing it
+    by the hour while on the march, and before long his real name
+    was replaced by the new one. Henceforth he will, no doubt,
+    continue to be Baa Baa. He was promoted from porter to
+    camera-bearer, but one day he could not be found when most
+    needed, and he was reduced back to the ranks. I never heard him
+    sing again. His heart was broken.</p>
+  </div><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XXI</h2>
+
+    <h3>BACK HOME FROM AFRICA. NINETY DAYS ON THE WAY THROUGH
+    INDIA, JAVA, CHINA, MANILA AND JAPAN. THREE CHOW DOGS AND A
+    FINAL SERIES OF AMUSING ADVENTURES</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">At</span> last the day came for us to say
+    good-by to the happy hunting grounds and return to the perils
+    and dangers of civilization. Occasional newspapers had filtered
+    into the wild places and in the peaceful security of our tents
+    we had read of frightful mining disasters in America, of
+    unparalleled floods in France, of the clash and jangle of rival
+    polar explorers, of disasters at sea, of rioting and lynching
+    in Illinois. Automobile accidents were chronicled with
+    staggering frequency, and there were murmurs of impending
+    rebellions in India, political crises in England, feverish war
+    talk in Germany, volcanic threats from Mount Etna, and a
+    bewildering lot of other dreadful things.</p>
+
+    <p>In contrast to this dire picture of life in civilized
+    places, our pleasant days among the lions and wild beasts of
+    Africa seemed curiously peaceful and orderly. Now we were to
+    leave&mdash;to go back into the maelstrom of the busy places and bid
+    farewell to our friendly savages and genial camp-fires. The
+    Akeleys were remaining some months longer, but Stephenson and I
+    were scheduled to leave.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/img0755.jpg"><img src="images/img0755s.jpg"
+      alt="[Photograph: Just Before Saying Good-by to My Horse]"
+      border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Just Before Saying Good-by to My Horse</p><a href=
+      "images/img0659a.jpg"><img src="images/img0659as.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: Manila Bay]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>Manila Bay</p><a href="images/img0659b.jpg"><img src=
+      "images/img0659bs.jpg" alt=
+      "[Photograph: The Boro Boedoer Ruins]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p>The Boro Boedoer Ruins</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There were a few busy days in Nairobi. The horses were sold,
+    the porters were paid off, the trophies were prepared for
+    shipment, and our camp outfits and guns were either sold or
+    packed for their journey homeward. There were affectionate and
+    rather tearful partings from good friends, then a quick railway
+    trip to the coast and a day or two of waiting in Mombasa. The
+    hunting was over. Now it was a mere matter of getting home in
+    ninety days, and for variety's sake we elected to go home
+    through India, Java, China, and Japan. I was curious to note
+    the changes that those countries had undergone since I had last
+    seen them years before.</p>
+
+    <p>We had some mild adventures. The first occurred in Mombasa,
+    and concerns the strange conduct of two little white dogs that
+    flashed in and out of our lives.</p>
+
+    <p>One day when I returned to my room in the hotel at Mombasa I
+    was surprised to find that two small dogs had established
+    themselves therein. The room boy knew nothing about them; the
+    people around the hotel did not remember having ever seen them
+    before. No clue to their owner was obtainable, and we regarded
+    their advent as something of a mild kind of miracle. They
+    played about the room as if they had long been there. When we
+    went out they were at our heels and in the course of our
+    wanderings through the old streets of the town the two dogs
+    were always close at hand, or, rather, close at feet. When I
+    worked in the room at the hotel they lay on the floor or played
+    near my table and made no effort to rush away to the many
+    temptations of the warm sunshine outside. I became much
+    attached to them. Such steadfast devotion from strange dogs is
+    always flattering.</p>
+
+    <p>Then our ship, the <em>Umzumbi</em>, South Africa to Bombay,
+    came into the harbor and anchored a quarter of a mile out from
+    the custom-house dock. We decided to go out and visit her and
+    accordingly shut the door to prevent the two little dogs from
+    joining us. Before we reached the dock they were with us,
+    however, having escaped some way or other. And when we got into
+    the rowboat to go out they looked appealingly after us from the
+    dripping steps of the boat landing. We were sorry, but really
+    we couldn't take them to the ship.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p362.png"><img src="images/p362s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Two Dogs of Mombasa]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Two Dogs of Mombasa</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Suddenly there was a splash, and one of the little dogs was
+    bravely swimming after us. He wasn't built for swimming, but he
+    was making a gallant effort. We stopped and picked him up, a
+    drippy but grateful little creature. Then we had to row back to
+    get the other one. By much strategy we succeeded in getting on
+    board the <em>Umzumbi</em> without taking them with us, but as
+    we were not sailing until the afternoon we stayed on board only
+    long enough to see that our state-room arrangements were
+    satisfactory and to meet the chief steward.</p>
+
+    <p>On our way back through the town the dogs got lost from us,
+    but when we reached the room at the hotel they were comfortably
+    installed in the square of sunshine that streamed through the
+    window. They refused to break home ties. Several more times
+    that day we executed elaborate man&oelig;uvers to lose them
+    without the painful formality of saying good-by. But all in
+    vain. We tried to give them away and finally succeeded in
+    persuading one woman from up Uganda way that they would be
+    useful to her.</p>
+
+    <p>She was considering the matter when we, feeling like
+    heartless criminals, stole away from the room, leaving it
+    locked, and leaving two trustful and trusting little dogs
+    incarcerated within. We told the proprietor of our dastardly
+    conduct, but cautioned him not to liberate the captives until
+    the steamer was hull down on the horizon. So by this time I
+    suppose there are two little white dogs searching Mombasa for
+    two missing Americans and wondering at the duplicity of human
+    nature.</p>
+
+    <p>We imagined that the ship from Mombasa to Bombay would be
+    nearly uninhabited by passengers. Few people are supposed to
+    cross that part of the Indian Ocean. But when we embarked on
+    the <em>Umzumbi</em> on February first we found the ship full.
+    There were British army officers bound for India, rich Parsees
+    bound from Zanzibar to Bombay, two elderly American churchmen
+    bound from the missionary fields of Rhodesia to inspect the
+    missionary fields of India; two or three traveling men, a South
+    African legislator bound for India on recreation bent, and a
+    few others.</p>
+
+    <p>After leaving Mombasa our travels were upon crowded ships,
+    on crowded trains, and from one crowded hotel to another
+    crowded hotel. It seemed as if the whole world had suddenly
+    decided to see the rest of the world.</p>
+
+    <p>Bombay was crowded and we barely succeeded in getting rooms
+    at the Taj Mahal. There were swarms of Americans outward bound
+    and inward bound. You couldn't go down a street without
+    encountering scores of new sun hats and red-bound "Murrays."
+    The taxicabs were full of eager faces peering out inquiringly
+    at the monuments and points of interest that flashed past.</p>
+
+    <p>The train to Agra was crowded and we succeeded in getting
+    reservations only by the skin of our teeth. Also the hotels at
+    Agra were jammed and many people were being turned away, while
+    the procession of carriages jogging out toward the Taj Mahal
+    was like an endless chain. Upon all sides as you paused in
+    spellbound rapture before the most beautiful building in the
+    world, you heard the voice of the tourist explaining the
+    beauties of the structure.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p365.png"><img src="images/p365s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: During the Tourist Rush]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>During the Tourist Rush</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The Taj Mahal is justly called the most beautiful edifice in
+    the world. It is so exquisite in its architecture and its
+    ornamentation that one may believe the story that it was
+    designed by a poet and constructed by a jeweler. It was built
+    by Shah Jehan as a memorial to his wife and for centuries it
+    has stood as a token of his great love for her.</p>
+
+    <p>When I visited it this year I was surprised to find that
+    Lord Curzon had placed within the great marble dome a hanging
+    lamp as a memorial to his own wife. It seemed like a shocking
+    piece of presumption&mdash;much as if the president of France should
+    hang a memorial to one of his own family over the sarcophagus
+    of Napoleon, or a president of the United States should do the
+    same at Washington's tomb at Mount Vernon. It seemed like an
+    inexpensive way of diverting the most beautiful structure of
+    the world to personal uses.</p>
+
+    <p>And yet later I was compelled to modify this opinion when I
+    saw how much excellent work Lord Curzon did toward restoring
+    the old palaces of Agra and preserving them for future
+    generations. As a reward for this work, perhaps, there may have
+    been some justification in placing a memorial lamp in the dome
+    of the Taj, especially as the lamp is exquisite in workmanship
+    and adds rather than detracts from the stately beauty of the
+    interior. But just the same the first verdict of the spectator
+    is that Lord Curzon displayed a colossal egotism in so
+    doing.</p>
+
+    <p>The tourist's beaten track in India was as thronged with
+    American sightseers as the ch&acirc;teau country in France.
+    Lucknow was crowded, Benares was crowded, Calcutta was crowded,
+    and the trains that ran in all directions were crowded. A
+    traveler wore a look of perpetual anxiety lest he should fail
+    to get hotel or railway accommodations.</p>
+
+    <p>The India of one's imagination&mdash;the somber land of mystery,
+    of untold riches, of eastern enchantment, of far-away
+    romance&mdash;was gone, buried under picture post-cards, hustling
+    tourists, and all the commonplaces of a popular tourist track.
+    It was distinctly disappointing from one point of view, and
+    yet, I suppose, one should rejoice that his fellow countrymen
+    have cash and energy enough to travel in distant places, even
+    though they destroy the romantic charm of those places by so
+    doing.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p367.png"><img src="images/p367s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Tourists in India]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Tourists in India</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The rush of Americans through India was as brisk as was the
+    rush of Americans through Europe ten years ago. Age was no
+    handicap. There were old couples, sixty, seventy, and eighty
+    years old, jogging along as eagerly and excitedly as young
+    bridal couples. The conversation one encountered was always
+    pretty much the same&mdash;how such a train was crowded, how
+    accommodations could not be secured at such a hotel, how poor
+    the hotels were, and how long they would have to wait to get a
+    berth on some outgoing ship. There were many people hung up in
+    Bombay and Calcutta vainly trying to get away, but the boats
+    were booked full for two or more voyages ahead.</p>
+
+    <p>One of the peculiarities of Indian travel has been the fact
+    that most tourists plan to be in India during December, January
+    and February. Hence they arrive in bunches, and try to get away
+    in a bunch, which is impossible owing to the limited capacity
+    of the steamships. This year the swarms of tourists have been
+    so great that many of them could not get out of the country
+    until late in March and along in April.</p>
+
+    <p>The Americans have become the great travelers of the world.
+    In India there are two American tourists for one of all other
+    nationalities. The hotel registers bristle with U.S.A.
+    addresses and the shops and hotels regard the American trade as
+    being the most profitable. One desirable result of the American
+    tendency to fare afield has been the steady improvement in
+    hotel and railway accommodations in the Far East.</p>
+
+    <p>We said good-by to India without much regret; in fact, we
+    were elated to secure accommodations on a small Indo-China boat
+    that made the run to Penang and Singapore in about eight days.
+    No berths could be secured on the ships that go by the way of
+    Burma. Those ships were booked full for several trips ahead. So
+    we settled down comfortably on the good ship Lai Sang and
+    droned lazily down through the Bay of Bengal. There were
+    accommodations for only twelve first-class passengers, and
+    there were only six on board. We had elbow room for the first
+    time since leaving Africa.</p>
+
+    <p>When we stopped at Penang there were two distinct
+    sensations. One was that Georgetown, the capital of the Island
+    of Penang, is the prettiest tropical city I have ever seen; and
+    the other was the first shock of the rubber craze. From that
+    time on we were constantly in a seething roar of rubber talk;
+    everybody was buying rubber shares and everybody else was
+    talking about starting rubber plantations. The fever was
+    epidemic. Planters were destroying profitable cocoanut groves
+    in order to replace them with rubber trees. Nearly every local
+    resident was putting his last cent in rubber shares and the
+    tales of suddenly increased wealth inflamed the imaginations
+    and cupidity of every one who heard them. I mentally jotted
+    down the names of one or two companies that are going to
+    declare enormous dividends soon, but that's as far as I've got
+    in my rubber investments.</p>
+
+    <p>Penang, like Hongkong, is an island. The city on the island
+    is Georgetown, while the city on Hongkong is Victoria; but you
+    will never hear any one speak of Georgetown or Victoria. It is
+    just Penang and Hongkong, and the other names are useless
+    incumbrances.</p>
+
+    <p>Singapore was crowded with Americans fighting for
+    accommodations on the China and Japan steamers; other Americans
+    fighting to get reservations on the Java steamers; still other
+    Americans who, in despair, were going to Hongkong by way of
+    Borneo and the Philippines. They were willing to go first,
+    second or third class&mdash;any way at all to get on a ship.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p370.png"><img src="images/p370s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: At Raffles' Hotel]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>At Raffles' Hotel</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The Singapore hotels were crowded and we got the last room
+    in the Raffles Hotel. The great and stately veranda, which
+    serves the double purpose of a bar and an out-of-door
+    reception-room, was usually crowded. That veranda is the
+    redeeming feature of Raffles Hotel. In other respects this
+    great hotel, situated at the cross-roads where East and West
+    and North and South meet, is not up to what a good hotel should
+    be.</p>
+
+    <p>We got the last state-room on a steamer to Java, and to our
+    great surprise we found the ship to be the nicest we had
+    traveled on, and the cooking to rival that of the great
+    restaurants of Paris.</p>
+
+    <p>Cholera was rampant in certain parts of Java, but that
+    didn't stop the sightseers. Nothing less than an earthquake or
+    a lost letter of credit could have stopped them.</p>
+
+    <p>Our adventures in Java were a repetition of "crowds." The
+    Hotel des Indes in Batavia was crowded and we got the last
+    room. The railways were crowded, but not so much as the ones in
+    India, and the carriages are most comfortable.</p>
+
+    <p>For a week we did volcanoes and gorgeous scenery, and
+    realized what a delightful place Java is. It is even nicer than
+    Japan, and the hotels are the best in the East.</p>
+
+    <p>My chief purpose in going to Java was to get a Javanese
+    waterwheel. They had one at the world's fair in Chicago, and I
+    have remembered it ever since as one of the most musical things
+    I have ever heard. A friend of mine wanted me to get him one
+    and I volunteered to do so. I supposed that we would hear
+    waterwheels just as soon as we got off the ship. But I was
+    evidently mistaken.</p>
+
+    <p>Nobody in Java, so far as I could discover, had ever seen or
+    heard of a Javanese waterwheel. I inquired of dozens of
+    people&mdash;people who had lived there all their lives&mdash;but they
+    looked blank when I spoke of waterwheels. I drew pictures of
+    it, but that didn't enlighten them.</p>
+
+    <p>Finally in despair, after a week of vain searching, I drew
+    the plans for a waterwheel and had it made. And I am taking it
+    home with me, hoping that it may make music. Next year, owing
+    to the demand I created for waterwheels, I suppose the Javanese
+    will start making them for the tourist trade.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p372.png"><img src="images/p372s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Java in a State of High Cultivation]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Java in a State of High Cultivation</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Just as Russia is the land of "nitchevo," Spain the land of
+    "ma&ntilde;ana," and China the land of "maskee," so Java is the
+    land of "never mind." You will hear the expression dozens of
+    times in the course of a talk between residents of Java&mdash;at the
+    beginning, in the middle, and at the end of sentences.</p>
+
+    <p>"I think it will rain to-morrow, but&mdash;never mind."</p>
+
+    <p>"I missed the train, but&mdash;never mind."</p>
+
+    <p>"I'm not feeling well, but&mdash;never mind."</p>
+
+    <p>You hear it all the time, all through Java.</p>
+
+    <p>In Java we had the best coffee we had struck since leaving
+    Paris, in fact, the first real good coffee we had found. Even
+    worthy Abdullah, our camp cook, was considerable of a failure
+    at coffee making. The Boro Boedoer ruins are among the most
+    stupendous in the world; the volcanoes of Java are like
+    chimneys in Pittsburg, the terraced rice fields are beautiful
+    beyond belief, but&mdash;never mind. I think I shall remember Java
+    chiefly for its delicious coffee and for my house-to-house hunt
+    for a waterwheel.</p>
+
+    <p>I was sitting one day in the Singapore club talking to
+    Colonel Glover of the British army, when a hand tapped me on my
+    shoulder. I looked around and there stood the King of Christmas
+    Island. I no more expected to see him than I did the great
+    Emperor Charlemagne, for it had been many years since we were
+    college mates at Purdue University. His story is romantic. He
+    is the nephew of Sir John Murray, who owns immense phosphate
+    deposits in Christmas Island, two hundred miles south of Java
+    Head. Years ago he went out to help work these great deposits
+    and has climbed up until now he is the virtual head of the
+    island. His authority is absolute and he has come to be called
+    the King of Christmas Island. His every-day name is that of his
+    distinguished uncle, Sir John, but his Sunday name is
+    "King."</p>
+
+    <p>For a day or two we motored around Singapore and it was
+    worth seeing to note how the tourists stared when I casually
+    said, "Well, King, let's have a bamboo." In a day or two he was
+    going to meet his wife, who was just coming from England with a
+    little three-months-old crown prince whom he had not yet seen.
+    Then, together, the royal family was going back to Christmas
+    Island on one of the king's ships.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p374.png"><img src="images/p374s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: The Call of the East]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>The Call of the East</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The China coast is distinguished for its excellent United
+    States consular officials. And it hasn't been so for many
+    years. Our representative in Singapore, Mr. Dubois, is one of
+    the best men I have yet encountered in one of our consulates.
+    He is a new-comer in Singapore and yet in his few months he has
+    added more prestige to our consulate general than all the
+    former men put together. One can not but wonder why he is not a
+    minister or an ambassador, instead of only a consul
+    general.</p>
+
+    <p>Hongkong has been fortunate in having an excellent
+    representative in Mr. Rublee, and his recent untimely death is
+    a distinct loss to the country. Mr. Wilder is in Shanghai and
+    he is decidedly a man of the best mental and temperamental
+    equipment. So now an American traveler may go up and down the
+    China coast and "point with pride" to his nation's
+    representatives. How different it was ten or twelve years
+    ago!</p>
+
+    <p>We barely managed to get on board the <em>Prinz
+    Ludwig</em>&mdash;Singapore to Hongkong. It is one of the N.D.
+    Lloyd's crack ships and everybody tries to take it. We got the
+    last cabin, as usual, and spent hours thanking our lucky
+    stars.</p>
+
+    <p>The China Sea is chronically disposed to be disagreeable,
+    but on this occasion it was quite well behaved. There were
+    three days of delightful sunshine and then a sudden blighting
+    chill in the air. We landed in Hongkong with overcoats buttoned
+    up and with garments drenched by the rains and mist clouds that
+    battled around the great peaks of this little island. The
+    hotels were jammed to the sidewalks and we got the last room at
+    the Hongkong Hotel, while throngs were turned away; the
+    steamers for the States were booked full for several voyages
+    ahead and tourists were rushing around in despair. The
+    <em>Asia</em> had been booked up to the limit for weeks and it
+    seemed as if we might have to wait a long time before getting
+    berths on any ship. But some one unexpectedly had to give up a
+    state-room and we were fortunate in getting it.</p>
+
+    <p>I had a great desire to see Manila again. It had been ten
+    years since I left there in the "days of the empire" and
+    everything in me quivered with longing to revisit the place
+    where I spent my golden period of adventure. We booked on the
+    old <em>Yuen Sang</em>, a friend of former days, and the
+    skipper, Captain Percy Rolfe, handsome, cultured, and capable,
+    was still in command. He loves the China Sea and has
+    steadfastly refused to be lured away by offers of greater ships
+    and more important commands. When we engaged our passage the
+    agent warned us that the vessel was carrying a cargo of naphtha
+    and kerosene and that we might not wish to risk it; but we
+    went. A Jap and a Chinaman were the only two other passengers,
+    and they were invisible during the sixty hours to cross.</p>
+
+    <p>We steamed out of Hongkong in a chilling wind and at once
+    plunged into a fog, but the next morning we ran into smooth
+    seas and warm weather. A full moon hung over the empty waste of
+    waters and the nights were gorgeous.</p>
+
+    <p>As we neared the coast of Luzon I became much excited, for
+    in my memory were those vivid, expectant days of old when our
+    little American fleet crossed this selfsame stretch of sea to
+    find and destroy the Spanish ships. I lived over again those
+    boding days when the air was electric with impending
+    danger.</p>
+
+    <p>It was long before daylight when the <em>Yuen Sang</em>, at
+    half-speed, arrived at Corregidor. The captain wished to report
+    his number to the signal station, and we had to wait until
+    light had come before the ship could enter. So the engines were
+    stopped and for an hour we drifted on under the ship's
+    momentum. The silencing of the engines on a ship is always
+    ominous, and just now, with the dim bulk of Corregidor looming
+    grimly before us, it seemed as if there was something
+    particularly sinister about our stealthy approach.</p>
+
+    <p>From five o'clock onward we stood on the bridge, our voices
+    unconsciously hushed as we spoke. Here was where the
+    <em>Baltimore</em> had dropped a Greek fire life preserver and
+    for a long time it had bobbed about on the tumbling sea, weird
+    and terrifying to those who didn't know what it was. There was
+    where the soot in the McCulloch's funnel had suddenly blazed up
+    like the chimney of a blast furnace. And over there on the
+    lower edge of the black bulk of the island was where a little
+    signal light had flared up and then died out, leaving every man
+    on our ships tense with expectant dread, and all about us here
+    had reigned a silence so penetrating that it in itself was
+    harder to bear than the thunder and flash of guns.</p>
+
+    <p>And still we drifted on, nearer and nearer to Boca Chica,
+    the northern passage into Manila Bay. Dawn and light came
+    slowly. In poetry the dawn of the tropics may come up like
+    thunder and the transition of darkness to light may be
+    startling and sudden, but in my own experience the tropic dawn
+    comes slowly and pervadingly. First a faint grayness, gradually
+    growing brighter until the sun shoots up joyous and golden in
+    its glory, painting the skies with flaming banners and
+    penciling the tips and edges of clouds with the fires of
+    morning. When we lazily drifted in toward Corregidor from the
+    China Sea that morning, it was light enough to see distinctly
+    for nearly an hour before the sun rose.</p>
+
+    <p>Presently a fluttering string of signal flags appeared on
+    the top of the island, and a moment later our engines resumed
+    their throbbing and we headed boldly into Boca Chica. Here on
+    the left was Mariveles Bay, the scene of the famous German
+    ship, <em>Irene</em>, incident, which electrified the
+    world.</p>
+
+    <p>Every point that rose before my eyes was pregnant with
+    historic memories and suggestions. I was thrilled and yet I
+    half-dreaded my return to Manila, for fear that the peace and
+    commercialism of the present days would be disappointing to one
+    who knew it when each day was filled with trouble and threats
+    of trouble; when the city lay always as if under an impending
+    cloud and when the borders of the bay rang with the thunder of
+    guns and the sputter of musketry.</p>
+
+    <p>As the <em>Yuen Sang</em> steamed across the twenty-five
+    miles of the bay it seemed as if it were only yesterday that I
+    had been there. The waters were glassy and smooth, just as the
+    bay used to be every morning of the long blockade, when the air
+    was still and the broad glistening water was tranquil and at
+    rest.</p>
+
+    <p>The surprises came in Manila. Great changes had taken place
+    in the harbor, new breakwaters were where there had been none
+    before, new buildings were up, and still more were building.
+    Big electric cars rushed along where formerly the snail-like
+    horse cars crept painfully by. The city was unbelievably clean
+    and the main streets were full of busy life.</p>
+
+    <p>I visited the old houses where we had once lived in
+    economical splendor, with servants and carriages and expenses
+    that were microscopic as compared to those of the present day.
+    Upon all sides were the visible evidences that some day Manila
+    will be the finest city of the Orient if the time ever comes
+    when capital may feel assured that our occupation has some
+    prospect of permanence.</p>
+
+    <p>In my old days I used to know a beautiful Mestiza girl in
+    Manila. She was very pretty and very nice. I used to draw
+    pictures of her and struggle bravely with the Spanish language.
+    And she was kind and patient with my efforts to learn. Her name
+    was Victoria and she kept a little shop where she and her
+    ancestors for generations before had sold silk jusi and
+    pi&ntilde;a cloth. I visited her often there and sometimes went
+    out to her home, a beautiful big Spanish house in Calle
+    Zarigoza.</p>
+
+    <p>I determined to find her and went over to her shop. Fatal
+    mistake! Ten years and the tropics work many changes in the
+    soft-eyed daughters south of the fifteenth degree of
+    latitude.</p>
+
+    <p>I once read a story by Pierre Loti, a sad and haunting story
+    of how he sought, after years of absence, to find an old-time
+    sweetheart in Stamboul. He didn't find her and he should be
+    grateful for his failure.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p380.png"><img src="images/p380s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Ten Years After]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Ten Years After</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>I found Victoria. She recognized me at once, although I
+    hardly knew in her the slender, pretty Victoria of old. Her
+    eyes were soft and nice, but smallpox had pitted her nose and
+    cheeks and the deadly incubus of flesh had upholstered her in
+    many soft and cushiony folds. I asked her if she had married
+    and she said she never had, which information I matched with
+    promptness. She spoke English quite well and seemed prosperous
+    and&mdash;yes, motherly. There's no other word for it, although she
+    is now hardly thirty.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a terrible disappointment, a collapse of delightful
+    memories, and as I walked away from her little silk shop with a
+    vague promise to call again I knew perfectly well that I should
+    never go back.</p>
+
+    <p>I left Manila after less than two days and rolled and
+    plunged and tumbled back across the China Sea to Hongkong. I
+    bought a little chow dog puppy from the Chinese steward on
+    board, but I suppose it will grow up and get fat one of these
+    days, too. Allison Armour and his nephew, Norman Armour, were
+    with us and in Hongkong the latter bought two chow dog puppies
+    to send home. They looked exactly like teddy bears. Later he
+    resolved that the trouble and risk were too great, inasmuch as
+    he was not returning by the Pacific, so he gave them to me. And
+    with three chow dogs and my friend Stephenson I embarked on the
+    <em>Asia</em> for the twenty-eight day trip to Frisco.</p>
+
+    <p>The ship was jammed and we found a little fat man consigned
+    to the sofa in our state-room. He was pleasant looking, but we
+    little realized what hours of nocturnal horror were in store
+    for us. He was the champion snorist of the five continents. He
+    could snore in all keys, all languages, all directions, and it
+    was like trying to sleep in the same room with a fog-horn.
+    Nothing could waken him and he went to sleep before he struck
+    the bed. And from that moment on through the night he tried the
+    acoustic properties of that end of the ship to the utmost.
+    After two or three nights of sleeplessness we resolved to
+    rebel, mutiny, revolt, and if necessary joyfully to commit
+    justifiable homicide.</p>
+
+    <div class="c1">
+      <a href="images/p382.png"><img src="images/p382s.png" alt=
+      "[Drawing: Never an American Flag]" border="0" /></a>
+
+      <p><em>Never an American Flag</em></p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>One night Stephenson turned on the light and reached for his
+    cane. "What are you going to do? Kill him?" I asked eagerly.
+    But he only poked at the quivering form to awaken it, and
+    merely succeeded in changing the key from B flat to a discord
+    of minors.</p>
+
+    <p>At Yokohama somebody got off and by buying an extra berth we
+    moved into another state-room and slept for twenty-four hours.
+    We called him "Snoring Cupid," because of his cherubic
+    appearance and proficiency in snoring.</p>
+
+    <p>It was the cherry blossom season in Japan. Through the
+    constant rain we saw the hillsides pink with loveliness. But it
+    was cold and disheartening and after five days in Japan we
+    turned with relief to the voyage homeward. And it was very
+    pleasant. Lots of pleasant things happened, but nothing
+    more.</p>
+
+    <p>It is good to be back where the American flag is a familiar
+    sight and not a curiosity. We saw thousands and thousands of
+    merchant ships, but except in Manila and Honolulu we never saw
+    a solitary American flag on one of them.</p>
+    <hr class="c10" width="50%" />
+
+    <p>And that's the end of our hunting trip. We are now back
+    where we have to pay two or three times as much for things as
+    we did in the Orient. A cigar that costs three cents gold in
+    Manila costs twelve and one-half cents gold in San Francisco!
+    But&mdash;never mind. A pleasant time was had.</p>
+  </div><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a>
+
+  <div class="c5">
+    <h2>CHAPTER XXII</h2>
+
+    <h3>WAYS AND MEANS. WHAT TO TAKE AND WHAT NOT TO TAKE,
+    INFORMATION FOR THOSE THAT WISH, INTEND OR HOPE TO HUNT IN THE
+    AFRICAN HIGHLANDS</h3>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="c8">
+    <p><span class="c7">When</span> one returns to America after
+    some time in the African game country, he is assailed by many
+    questions from others who wish, intend, or hope to make a
+    similar trip. Almost without variation the questioner will ask
+    about the cost, about the danger from fever and sickness, about
+    snakes and insects, about the tempers of the tribes one
+    encounters, and then, if he be a specialist, he will ask about
+    the rifles and the camp equipment. As these familiar and oft
+    repeated inquiries have been made by friends who had read my
+    African letters, I must assume that the features of an African
+    hunting trip, about which people are most curious, were very
+    imperfectly answered in the preceding chapters. Hence, this
+    supplementary chapter, dealing briefly with the ways and means
+    of such a trip, is added for the enlightenment of such readers
+    as may be planning a journey into those fascinating regions of
+    Africa where I have so recently been.</p>
+
+    <p>As to the cost of a trip of three or more months in the
+    field I should say that about one thousand dollars a month
+    would amply cover the total expenses from New York back to New
+    York. This amount would include passage money, guns,
+    ammunition, landing charges, commissions, camera expenses on a
+    reasonable scale, tents, customs&mdash;in fact all the incidental
+    items which are not customarily included in the estimate given
+    by the Nairobi outfitters. These firms, chief of which are the
+    Newland, Tarlton and Company, Limited, which directed Colonel
+    Roosevelt's <em>safari</em>, and the Boma Trading Company,
+    which directed the Duke of Connaught's hunt, agree to outfit a
+    party at a cost of about five-hundred dollars a month for each
+    white man. For this amount they furnish everything except your
+    ammunition, clothes, medicines, camera supplies, export and
+    import duties, mounting of trophies, passage money to and from
+    Africa, and such items. To particularize, they agree to supply
+    for this amount, a complete outfit of tents, foods, porters,
+    camp attendants, gunbearers, horses, mules or ox teams, as may
+    be required, and a native head-man or overseer.</p>
+
+    <p>One who wished to do so could telegraph ahead to have one of
+    the Nairobi outfitting firms prepare a one, two or three
+    months' hunt, or <em>safari</em>, and then, with only a
+    suit-case he could arrive, with the certainty that everything
+    would be in readiness. There would be no worry or concern about
+    any feature of that part of the work. He would be relieved of
+    the anxiety of preparation, and it is hardly likely that he
+    would ever regret having taken this course. The dealings of our
+    <em>safari</em> with Messrs. Newland and Tarlton were most
+    satisfactory in all respects and the charges they made were
+    entirely reasonable. To the one who desires to make this trip
+    in this, the simplest way, there is the need of giving only one
+    suggestion: Let him write to one of the outfitting firms,
+    stating the length of time that he can spend in the field, the
+    class of game that he chiefly wishes to get, the number of
+    white men in his party, and the season of the year that he
+    plans to be in Africa. The outfitters will then answer, giving
+    all the particulars of cost and equipment. This is the course
+    that I should recommend for the average hunter who has had no
+    previous experience in Africa. It will save him the trouble of
+    making an endless amount of preparation, much of which will be
+    useless because of his ignorance of conditions in that field of
+    sport.</p>
+
+    <p>In the case of our own <em>safari</em>, we bought our guns,
+    tents, ammunition, foods and entire equipment in London and had
+    it shipped to Nairobi. This equipment contemplated a trip of
+    six months in the field, and included sixty-five "chop boxes"
+    of sixty pounds each, containing foods. These chop boxes were
+    of wood, with lids and locks, twenty of which were tin lined
+    for use in packing specimens later in the trip, and all marked
+    with bands of various colors to identify their contents. The
+    boxes contained the following supplies:</p>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>TWENTY CASES (RED BAND)</dt>
+
+      <dd>Two tins imperial cheese.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One pound Ceylon tea.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One four-pound tin granulated sugar.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins ox tongue.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One tin oxford sausage.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins sardines.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins kippered herrings.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three tins deviled ham (Underwood's).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins jam (assorted).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins marmalade (Dundee).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three half-pound tins butter.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three half-pound tins dripping.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins small captain biscuit.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins baked beans, Heinz (tomato sauce).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One half-pound tin salt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two parchment skins pea soup.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One one and one-half pound tin Scotch oatmeal.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>TWENTY CASES (BLUE BAND)</dt>
+
+      <dd>Two tins baked beans (Heinz) (tomato sauce).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One tin bologna sausage.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One tin sardines.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One tin sardines, smoked.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two one-pound tins camp, pie.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Five tins jam, assorted.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins marmalade (Dundee).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Five half-pound tins butter.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three half-pound tins dripping.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins imperial cheese.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One one and one-quarter pound tin Ceylon tea.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One four pound tin granulated sugar.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One quarter-pound tin cocoa.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two tins camp biscuit.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One half-pound tin salt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One one and one-half tin Scotch oatmeal.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One one-pound tin lentils.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One tin mixed vegetables (dried).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One two-pound tin German prunes.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six soup squares.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One ounce W. pepper.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two sponge cloths.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One-half quire kitchen paper.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>SIXTEEN CASES (GREEN BAND)</dt>
+
+      <dd>Three fourteen-pound tins self-raising flour.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two cases (black band) containing fifteen bottles lime
+      juice (plain) Montserrat.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two cases, each containing one dozen Scotch whisky.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two cases (red and blue band) thirty pounds bacon, well
+      packed in salt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two cases (yellow and black band) five ten-pound tins
+      plaster of Paris for making casts of animals.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One case (red and green band) fifty pounds sperm
+      candles&mdash;large size (carriage).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Four folding lanterns.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>The following items to be equally divided into as many
+      lots as necessary to make sixty-pound cases:</dt>
+
+      <dd>Eight Edam cheeses.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twenty tins bovril.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twenty two-pound tins sultana raisins.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Ten two-pound tins currants.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Ten one-pound tins macaroni.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Thirty tins Underwood deviled ham.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Eighty tablets carbolic soap.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Eighty packets toilet paper.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Ten bottles Enos' fruit salt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twenty one-pound tins plum pudding.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six tins curry powder.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twenty one-pound tins yellow Dubbin.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six one-pound tins veterinary vaseline.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six one-pound tins powdered sugar.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six tin openers.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twelve tins asparagus tips.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twelve tins black mushrooms.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six large bottles Pond's extract.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twelve ten-yard spools zinc oxide surgeon's tape one inch
+      wide.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two small bottles Worcestershire sauce.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>In addition to the foregoing we added the following
+      equipment of table ware:</dt>
+
+      <dd>Eight white enamel soup plates&mdash;light weight.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Eight white enamel dinner plates&mdash;light weight.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three white enamel vegetable dishes&mdash;medium size.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six one-pint cups.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Eight knives and forks.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twelve teaspoons.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six soup spoons.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six large table-spoons.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One carving knife and fork.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six white enamel oatmeal dishes.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <dl>
+      <dt>As our tent equipment and some of the miscellanies
+      necessary to our expedition, the subjoined articles were
+      procured:</dt>
+
+      <dd>Four double roof ridge tents 10 by 8&mdash;4 feet walls, in
+      valises.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One extra fly of above size, with poles, ropes, etc,
+      complete.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Five ground sheets for above, one foot larger each way,
+      <em>i.e.</em>, 11 by 9.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Four mosquito nets for one-half tents, 9 feet long.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Four circular canvas baths.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Twelve green, round-bottom bags 43 by 30.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Four hold-all bags with padlocks.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two fifty-yard coils 1 1-4 Manila rope.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One pair wood blocks for 1 1-4 brass sheaves, strapped
+      with tails.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Four four-quart tin water bottles.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two eight-quart Uganda water bottles.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Four large canvas water buckets.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One gross No. 1 circlets.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One punch and die.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>The foregoing lot of supplies were ordered through Newland,
+    Tarlton and Company's agent at 166 Piccadilly, London, and were
+    ready when we reached London.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Medicines and Surgical Equipment</span></p>
+
+    <p>It is well to provide a good store of medicines and some
+    instruments, even though, as in our case, we had little
+    occasion to use any of it. One of the Burroughs and Wellcome
+    medicine cases "for East Africa" is compact and well selected.
+    In addition there should be plenty of zinc oxide adhesive
+    plaster, some bandages and some hypodermic syringes for use in
+    case of wounds which might lead to blood poisoning. In our
+    first experience with lions we always went prepared for wounds
+    of this sort, but later we took no precautions whatever and
+    fortunately had no occasion for heroic measures. At the same
+    time, it is far wiser always to be prepared.</p>
+
+    <p>We were also well supplied with tick medicines, but in spite
+    of the fact that we encountered millions of ticks, they gave us
+    no concern and no tick preventatives were used. Quinine and
+    calomel are essentials and may be bought in Nairobi.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Rifles</span></p>
+
+    <p>It is important that each hunter include in his battery one
+    heavy double-barreled cordite rifle for use at close quarters
+    where a shocking impact is desirable. Each of our party had a
+    .475 Jeffery, which we found to be entirely satisfactory, and
+    which served us as well as though we had used the more
+    expensive Holland and Holland's .450. I do not presume to know
+    much about the relative merits of rifles, but after an
+    experience of four and a half months with the Jeffery's .475, I
+    feel justified in saying that this type would meet all
+    requirements reliably. These rifles cost thirty-five guineas
+    each.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Akeley and I each had a nine millimeter Mannlicher,
+    which we found to be unsatisfactory, either through fault of
+    our own or of the rifle. We had a feeling that the weight of
+    the ball was too great for the charge of powder. Others may
+    favor it, but I should not include it in my battery if I were
+    to go again. This type costs twelve guineas.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Stephenson used a .318 Mauser, which he found most
+    satisfactory. We also had three .256 Mannlichers, which in my
+    experience is a type for which too much praise can not be
+    given. It is also a twelve guinea rifle.</p>
+
+    <p>In mentioning these three rifles of foreign make, I do not
+    wish to imply that they are superior to our own American guns.
+    Colonel Roosevelt used a Winchester .405 and a Springfield,
+    both of which he considered most desirable. I think if I were
+    to go again I should take a .405 as my second gun, heavy enough
+    for all purposes except the close-quarter work where the big
+    cordite double-barrels are necessary.</p>
+
+    <p>The matter of a battery is one which each sportsman should
+    determine for himself. There are many good types and a man is
+    naturally inclined to favor those with which he is
+    familiar.</p>
+
+    <p>We also carried shot guns, one ten-gauge which, with buck
+    shot, makes a formidable weapon for stopping charges of
+    soft-skinned animals at close range; and two twenty-gauge
+    Parkers for bird shooting.</p>
+
+    <p>In addition, we included revolvers, none of which we fired
+    or needed at any time in Africa. Perhaps a heavy six-shooter
+    might some time be a valuable reserve, but our experience leads
+    me to think that it would generally repose quietly in camp at
+    all times.</p>
+
+    <p>In the way of ammunition for a six-months' shoot, we took
+    for each cordite rifle, 200 full mantle, 200 soft nose and 100
+    split cartridges. For the 9 millimeter, we took for each rifle
+    450 solids, 500 splits and 500 soft-nosed bullets, and
+    practically the same for the .256 Mannlichers. We found that we
+    had far more ammunition than we required, especially the solids
+    for the smaller rifles, but it is better to have too much than
+    to have the fear of running short. One should not forget that
+    he is likely to shoot more than in his wildest dreams he
+    supposed possible and the meanest feeling on a hunt is to have
+    constantly to economize cartridges.</p>
+
+    <p>None of us used telescope sights but by many sportsmen they
+    are considered highly desirable in African shooting where often
+    the range is great and the light confusing.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Personal Equipment</span></p>When we
+    stopped in New York on our way to Africa, we talked with Mr.
+    Bayard Dominick, who had just returned from such a trip as we
+    had in mind, and from him secured a list of articles which he
+    found to be sufficient and equal to all needs. We used this
+    list to guide us and except in minor details, assembled a
+    similar equipment:
+
+    <dl>
+      <dd>Two suits&mdash;coat and breeches&mdash;gabardine or khaki.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One belt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two knives&mdash;one hunting-knife, one jack-knife.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three pair cloth putties.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three flannel shirts (I actually only used two).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Six suits summer flannels, merino, long drawers.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three pair Abercrombie lightest shoes (one pair rubber
+      soles).</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three colored silk handkerchiefs.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two face towels&mdash;two bath towels.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three khaki cartridge holders to put on shirts to hold
+      big cartridges, one for each shirt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One pair long trousers to put on at night, khaki.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Two suits flannel pajamas.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Eight pair socks (I used gray Jaeger socks, fine).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One light west sweater.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One Mackinaw coat (not absolutely necessary).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One rubber coat.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One pair mosquito boots (Lawn and Alder, London).</dd>
+
+      <dd><span class="c11">Soft leather top boots for evening wear
+      in camp.</span></dd>
+
+      <dd>Five leather pockets to hold cartridges to go on
+      belt.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Three whetstones (one for self and two for
+      gunbearers).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One helmet (we used Gyppy pattern Army and Navy
+      stores).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One double terai hat, brown (Army and Navy stores).</dd>
+
+      <dd>One six-_or_eight-foot pocket tape of steel to measure
+      horns.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One compass.</dd>
+
+      <dd>One diary.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Writing materials.</dd>
+
+      <dd>Toilet articles.</dd>
+    </dl>
+
+    <p>Articles for personal use, however, may be determined by the
+    wishes and experiences of the individual.</p>
+
+    <p>We each had good Zeiss glasses, which are essential, and
+    later, in Nairobi, were able to obtain a satisfactory
+    replenishment of hunting clothes and shoes.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Cameras</span></p>
+
+    <p>Everybody who goes shooting will want at least one camera if
+    only for the purpose of having his picture taken with his first
+    lion, if he is successful in getting one. Mr. Akeley made
+    special preparations for taking fine photographs, and for this
+    reason carried a complete outfit, even to a dark-room equipment
+    for developing negatives and moving picture films in the field.
+    He carried a naturalist's graflex, a small hand camera and a
+    moving-picture machine. Mr. Stephenson had a 3A Kodak, I had
+    the same and also a Verascope stereoscopic camera. We used
+    films and plates and found no deterioration in them even after
+    several months in the field. Films and camera supplies may be
+    purchased in Nairobi; and also the developing and printing may
+    be done most satisfactorily in the town.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Fevers and Sickness</span></p>
+
+    <p>It is my belief that the dangers of this sort are magnified
+    in the imaginations of those who contemplate a trip to East
+    Africa. Very little of the hunting is done in jungles&mdash;in fact
+    there are few jungles except on the slopes of the mountains and
+    along the course of streams. Our <em>safari</em> went into the
+    Athi Plains, along the Athi River down the Tana River, up on
+    Mount Kenia and later on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, along the
+    Nzoia River, and up Mount Elgon. Coming out of this district,
+    we passed through the Rift Valley and part of our
+    <em>safari</em> went up to Lake Hannington. So, from personal
+    experience, I can speak with knowledge of only these sections.
+    Along the Tana we were in fever country, the altitude being
+    only about thirty-five hundred feet. And yet only two of our
+    party had touches of fever, so light that they readily yielded
+    to quinine. This was tick country, and we had been led to
+    believe that we should be fearfully pestered with these
+    insects. But there was almost no annoyance from them, due,
+    perhaps, to a good deal of care in keeping them out of our
+    clothes. There were many mosquitoes in this section, but
+    effective mosquito nets over our cots protected us from
+    them.</p>
+
+    <p>On Mount Kenia, the high Guas Ngishu Plateau and Mount
+    Elgon, the thought of sickness was entirely absent. These
+    districts were found to be salubrious and free from ticks and
+    mosquitoes.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Snakes</span></p>
+
+    <p>Before going to Africa, I must admit that the thought of
+    serpents occasioned much anxiety. I didn't like the idea of
+    tramping around through grass and reeds where poisonous snakes
+    might be found. And yet, after a few days in the field, I never
+    seriously thought of snakes as a possible, or rather probable,
+    source of danger. In four and a half months, in all kinds of
+    country, much of the time on foot, I saw only six live snakes.
+    They were all small and only two, a puff adder and a little
+    viper, were known to be venomous. Our porters, with bare feet
+    and legs, penetrated all kinds of snaky-looking spots and yet
+    not one was bitten. In fact, I have never heard of any one
+    being bitten by snakes in East Africa, and for this reason I
+    can not avoid the conclusion that the fear of snakes need not
+    be seriously considered as an element of danger in the
+    country.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">The Natives</span></p>
+
+    <p>So many hunting parties have gone over the game fields that
+    the natives are familiar with white men and are not at all
+    likely to be hostile or troublesome. Our <em>safari</em> at one
+    time went into a district where we were warned to expect
+    trouble, but there was none and I think there never need be any
+    if the white men are considerate and fair. If a district is
+    known to be particularly troublesome, the government
+    authorities would not permit a hunting party to go into it, so
+    for that reason the hunters need apprehend no dangers from that
+    source.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Game</span></p>
+
+    <p>Game is found in varying degrees of abundance in most parts
+    of the East African highlands. Within two hours of Nairobi the
+    sportsman may find twelve or fifteen species, while within the
+    space of four weeks a lucky hunter might secure elephant, lion,
+    rhinoceros, buffalo, eland and hippopotamus. It is hardly
+    <em>likely</em> that he would, but it is quite within the range
+    of possibilities. It all depends upon luck. The hunter is
+    allowed under his two hundred and fifty dollar license, about
+    one hundred and ninety-five animals, comprising thirty-five
+    species, and not including lion, leopard, wart-hog and hyena.
+    There is no restriction on the number of these last-named
+    species that one is allowed to shoot, but there is on the
+    number that he gets the opportunity of shooting.</p>
+
+    <p>The success of an expedition should not be measured by the
+    number of trophies, but rather by the quality of them. For
+    example, the new license allows twenty zebras, but no one would
+    want to kill more than two unless as food for the porters. The
+    same is true of many other species, and a temperate sportsman
+    should have no desire to kill more than a couple of each
+    species, say sixty or eighty head in all, unless, of course, he
+    is making collections for museums or for other scientific
+    purposes.</p>
+
+    <p>The gunbearers are usually fairly good skinners and if
+    carefully watched and directed can treat the heads and skins so
+    that they may be safely got in to Nairobi. Here they should be
+    overhauled carefully and packed in brine for shipment out of
+    the country. The agents in Nairobi should be consulted about
+    these details and will give competent instructions covering
+    this phase of the work.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Game Laws</span></p>
+
+    <p>These are of necessity under frequent revision, but the
+    latest available information allows the holder of a fifty-pound
+    license, which lasts for one year from date of issue, to kill
+    or capture the following:</p>
+
+    <p>Buffalo (Bull), 2; <a href="#A">[A]</a>Rhinoceros, 2;
+    <a href="#A">[A]</a>Hippopotamus, 2; <a href="#A">[A]</a>Eland,
+    1; Zebra (Grevey's), 2; Zebra, (Common), 20; Oryx callotis, 2;
+    Oryx beisa, 4; Waterbuck (of each species), 2; Sable antelope
+    (male), 1; <a href="#A">[A]</a>Roan antelope (male), 1;
+    <a href="#A">[A]</a>Greater Kudu (male), 1; Lesser Kudu, 4;
+    Topi, 2; Topi (in Jubaland, Tanaland and Loita Plains), 8;
+    Coke's Hartebeest, 20; <a href="#A">[A]</a>Neumann's
+    Hartebeest, 2; Jackson's Hartebeest, 4; Hunter's Antelope, 6;
+    Thomas' Kob, 4; Bongo, 2; Impalla, 4; Sitatunga, 2; Wildebeest,
+    3; Grant's Gazelle (Typica, Notata Bright's, Robertsi), each,
+    3; Gerenuk, 4; Duiker (Harvey's, Isaac's, and Blue), each, 10;
+    Dik-dik (Kirk's, Guenther's, Hinde's, Cavendish's), each, 10;
+    Oribi (Abyssinian, Haggard's, Kenia), each, 10; Suni
+    (Nesotragus Moschatus), 10; Klipspringer, 10; Reedbuck (Ward's,
+    Chanler's), each, 10; Gazelle (Thompson's, Peter's,
+    Soemmering's), each, 10; Bushbuck (Common, Haywood's), each,
+    10; Colobi Monkeys, of each species, 6; Marabou, 4; Egret, of
+    each species, 4.</p>
+
+    <p><a name="A" id="A"></a> [Footnote A: Can not be killed in
+    certain districts.]</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Special Licenses</span></p>
+
+    <p>These can be taken out for ten pounds each and entitle the
+    holder to kill or capture:</p>
+
+    <p>Elephant with tusks over thirty pounds, each, 1; Bull
+    Giraffe in certain districts, 1.</p>
+
+    <p>A second elephant is allowed on payment of a further fee of
+    twenty pounds, this fee being returnable in the event of the
+    elephant not being obtained.</p>
+
+    <p>Lions and leopards are classed as vermin, and consequently
+    no license to kill them is required.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">The Season for Shooting</span></p>
+
+    <p>"Practically any time of the year will do for shooting in
+    British East Africa, but the season of the 'big rains' from the
+    end of January to the end of April, is not one to choose
+    willingly from the point of view of comfort. There is also a
+    short spell of rainy weather about October and November which,
+    however, is not looked upon as an obstacle to a
+    <em>safari</em>, and we may say that from May to February
+    constitutes the shooting season."</p>
+
+    <p>The foregoing is quoted from a pamphlet on East Africa game
+    shooting. In our own experience the weather between September
+    and February was perfectly delightful and I judge, from reading
+    accounts of Colonel Roosevelt's trip, that his operations
+    between April and December were never seriously hampered by bad
+    weather. From the experiences of these two <em>safaris</em>,
+    one might reasonably conclude that any time is good except
+    February, March and April, the season of the "big rains."</p>
+
+    <p><span class="c7">Heat</span></p>
+
+    <p>On the Athi Plains in September, we found the heat in the
+    middle of the day to be very ardent, to say the least. But with
+    the exception of fewer than a dozen days in all, we never were
+    obliged to consider this phase of the hunting experience as an
+    objectionable feature. We found the cold of the high altitudes
+    to be severe in the evenings and in contrast to it, the warm
+    days were most welcome. Along the coast, of course, the heat is
+    intense, but all of the shooting is done at altitudes exceeding
+    thirty-five hundred feet and one merely pauses at the coast
+    town long enough to catch his train. In September even Mombasa
+    was delightful, but in January it was very hot.</p>
+
+    <p>In conclusion, I might say that all one needs for an African
+    hunting trip is sufficient time, sufficient money, and a fair
+    degree of health. Also the services of a reliable outfitting
+    firm which will furnish enlightenment upon all subjects not
+    specifically included in the foregoing chapter of advice and
+    information.</p>
+
+    <p><em>With the exception of the photographs, all of which are
+    here reproduced for the first time, a great part of this
+    material appeared originally in The Chicago Tribune, and is now
+    published in book form by the courtesy of that paper.</em></p>
+  </div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 21254-h.txt or 21254-h.zip *******</p>
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+http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/0/2/3/10234
+
+or filename 24689 would be found at:
+http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/4/6/8/24689
+
+An alternative method of locating eBooks:
+<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL">http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/GUTINDEX.ALL</a>
+
+*** END: FULL LICENSE ***
+</pre>
+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, In Africa, by John T. McCutcheon
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: In Africa
+       Hunting Adventures in the Big Game Country
+
+
+Author: John T. McCutcheon
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 29, 2007  [eBook #21254]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Rudy Ketterer and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the numerous original illustrations.
+      See 21254-h.htm or 21254-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/1/2/5/21254/21254-h/21254-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/1/2/5/21254/21254-h.zip)
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+      Words or phrases in italics are enclosed beetwee
+      underscores, such as _italic_.
+
+      [Drawing: . . .] indicates a hand-drawn Illustration
+
+
+
+
+
+IN AFRICA
+
+Hunting Adventures in the Big Game Country
+
+by
+
+JOHN T. McCUTCHEON
+
+Cartoonist of the Chicago Tribune
+
+Illustrated with Photographs and Cartoons by the Author
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. One Morning's Bag]
+
+
+
+Indianapolis
+The Bobbs-Merrill Company
+Publishers
+
+Copyright 1910
+The Tribune Company, Chicago
+
+Copyright 1910
+The Bobbs-Merrill Company
+
+Press of
+Braunworth & Co.
+Bookbinders and Printers
+Brooklyn, N.Y.
+
+
+
+
+                TO THOSE ADVENTUROUS SOULS WHO
+            RESENT THE RESTRAINT OF THE BEATEN PATH
+               THESE OBSERVATIONS OF AN AMATEUR
+                         ARE DEDICATED
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+This collection of African stories has no pretentious purpose. It is
+merely the record of a most delightful hunting trip into those
+fascinating regions along the Equator, where one may still have
+"thrilling adventures" and live in a story-book atmosphere, where the
+"roar of the lion" and the "crack of the rifle" are part of the
+every-day life, and where in a few months one may store up enough
+material to keep the memory pleasantly occupied all the rest of a
+lifetime. The stories are descriptive of a four-and-a-half months' trip
+in the big game country and pretend to no more serious purpose than
+merely to relate the experiences of a self-confessed amateur under such
+conditions.
+
+                                              JOHN T. McCUTCHEON
+
+_August, 1910_
+
+
+
+
+                          CONTENTS
+
+CHAPTER ONE                                                       Page
+  The Preparation for Departure. Experiences with Willing
+  Friends and Advisers                                               1
+
+CHAPTER TWO
+  The First Half of the Voyage. From Naples to the Red Sea,
+  with a Few Side-Lights on Indian Ocean Travel                     13
+
+CHAPTER THREE
+  The Island of Mombasa, with the Jungles of Equatorial Africa
+  "Only a Few Blocks Away." A Story of the World's Champion
+  Man-Eating Lions                                                  28
+
+CHAPTER FOUR
+  On the Edge of the Athi Plains, Face to Face with Herds of
+  Wild Game. Up in a Balloon at Nairobi                             43
+
+CHAPTER FIVE
+  Into the Heart of the Big Game Country with a Retinue of
+  More Than One Hundred Natives. A Safari and What It Is            65
+
+CHAPTER SIX
+  A Lion Drive. With a Rhino in Range Some One Shouts
+  "Simba" and I Get My First Glimpse of a Wild Lion. Three
+  Shots and Out                                                     82
+
+CHAPTER SEVEN
+  On the Tana River, the Home of the Rhino. The Timid are
+  Frightened, the Dangerous Killed, and Others Photographed.
+  Moving Pictures of a Rhino Charge                                105
+
+CHAPTER EIGHT
+  Meeting Colonel Roosevelt in the Uttermost Outpost of
+  Semi-Civilization. He Talks of Many Things, Hears that he has
+  Been Reported Dead, and Promptly Plans an Elephant Hunt          123
+
+CHAPTER NINE
+  The Colonel Reads Macaulay's "Essays," Discourses on Many
+  Subjects with Great Frankness, Declines a Drink of Scotch
+  Whisky, and Kills Three Elephants                                141
+
+CHAPTER TEN
+  Elephant Hunting Not an Occasion for Lightsome Merrymaking.
+  Five Hundred Thousand Acres of Forest in Which the
+  Kenia Elephant Lives, Wanders and Brings Up His Children         164
+
+CHAPTER ELEVEN
+  Nine Days Without Seeing an Elephant. The Roosevelt
+  Party Departs and We March for the Mountains on Our Big
+  Elephant Hunt. The Policeman of the Plains                       184
+
+CHAPTER TWELVE
+  "Twas the Day Before Christmas." Photographing a Charging
+  Elephant, Cornering a Wounded Elephant in a River Jungle
+  Growth. A Thrilling Charge. Hassan's Courage                     201
+
+CHAPTER THIRTEEN
+  In the Swamps of the Guas Ngishu. Beating for Lions We
+  Came Upon a Strange and Fascinating Wild Beast, Which
+  Became Attached to Our Party. The Little Wanderobo Dog           214
+
+CHAPTER FOURTEEN
+  Who's Who in Jungleland. The Hartebeest and the Wildebeest,
+  the Amusing Giraffe and the Ubiquitous Zebra, the
+  Lovely Gazelle and the Gentle Impalla                            233
+
+CHAPTER FIFTEEN
+  Some Natural History in Which it is Revealed that a Sing-Sing
+  Waterbuck is Not a Singing Topi, and that a Topi is Not
+  a Species of Head-dress                                          251
+
+CHAPTER SIXTEEN
+  In the Tall Grass of the Mount Elgon Country. A Narrow
+  Escape from a Long-Horned Rhino. A Thanksgiving Dinner
+  and a Visit to a Native Village                                  269
+
+CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
+  Up and Down the Mountain Side from the Ketosh Village to
+  the Great Cave of Bats. A Dramatic Episode with the Finding
+  of a Black Baby as a Climax                                      291
+
+CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
+  Electric Lights, Motor-Cars and Fifteen Varieties of Wild
+  Game. Chasing Lions Across the Country in a Carriage             313
+
+CHAPTER NINETEEN
+  The Last Word in Lion Hunting. Methods of Trailing, Ensnaring
+  and Otherwise Outwitting the King of Beasts. A
+  Chapter of Adventures                                            325
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY
+  Abdullah the Cook and Some Interesting Gastronomic Experiences.
+  Thirteen Tribes Represented in the Safari. Abdi's
+  Story of His Uncle and the Lions                                 341
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE
+  Back Home from Africa. Ninety Days on the Way Through
+  India, Java, China, Manila and Japan. Three Chow Dogs and
+  a Final Series of Amusing Adventures                             360
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
+  Ways and Means. What to Take and What Not to Take. Information
+  for Those that Wish, Intend or Hope to Hunt in the
+  African Highlands                                                384
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               IN AFRICA
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE. EXPERIENCES WITH WILLING FRIENDS AND
+ADVISERS
+
+
+Ever since I can remember, almost, I have cherished a modest ambition to
+hunt lions and elephants. At an early age, or, to be more exact, at
+about that age which finds most boys wondering whether they would rather
+be Indian fighters or sailors, I ran across a copy of Stanley's _Through
+the Dark Continent_. It was full of fascinating adventures. I thrilled
+at the accounts which spoke in terms of easy familiarity of "express"
+rifles and "elephant" guns, and in my vivid but misguided imagination, I
+pictured an elephant gun as a sort of cannon--a huge, unwieldy
+arquebus--that fired a ponderous shell. The old woodcuts of daring
+hunters and charging lions inspired me with unrest and longing--the
+longing to bid the farm farewell and start down the road for Africa.
+Africa! What a picture it conjured up in my fancy! Then, as even now, it
+symbolized a world of adventurous possibilities; and in my boyhood
+fancy, it lay away off there--somewhere--vaguely--beyond mountains and
+deserts and oceans, a vast, mysterious, unknown land, that swarmed with
+inviting dangers and alluring romance.
+
+One by one my other youthful ambitions have been laid away. I have given
+up hope of ever being an Indian fighter out on the plains, because the
+pesky redskins have long since ceased to need my strong right arm to
+quell them. I also have yielded up my ambition to be a sailor, or
+rather, that branch of the profession in which I hoped to
+specialize--piracy--because, for some regretful reason, piracy has lost
+much of its charm in these days of great liners. There is no treasure to
+search for any more, and the golden age of the splendid clipper ships,
+with their immense spread of canvas, has given way to the unromantic age
+of the grimy steamer, about which there is so little to appeal to the
+imagination. Consequently, lion hunting is about the only thing
+left--except wars, and they are few and far between.
+
+And so, after suffering this "lion-hunting" ambition to lie fallow for
+many years, I at last reached a day when it seemed possible to realize
+it. The chance came in a curiously unexpected way. Mr. Akeley, a man
+famed in African hunting exploits, was to deliver a talk before a little
+club to which I belonged. I went, and as a result of my thrilled
+interest in every word he said, I met him and talked with him and
+finally was asked to join a new African expedition that he had in
+prospect. With the party were to be Mrs. Akeley, with a record of
+fourteen months in the big game country, and Mr. Stephenson, a hunter
+with many years of experience in the wild places of the United States,
+Canada and Mexico. My hunting experience had been chiefly gained in my
+library, but for some strange reason, it did not seem incongruous that I
+should begin my real hunting in a lion and elephant country.
+
+[Drawing: _Getting Ready for Lion Shooting_]
+
+I had all the prowess of a Tartarin, and during the five months that
+elapsed before I actually set forth, I went about my daily work with a
+mind half dazed with the delicious consciousness that I was soon to
+become a lion hunter. I feared that modern methods might have taken away
+much of the old-time romance of the sport, but I felt certain that there
+was still to be something left in the way of excitement and adventure.
+
+The succeeding pages of this book contain the chronicle of the nine
+delightful months that followed my departure from America.
+
+In the middle of August Mr. Stephenson and I arrived in London. Mr.
+Akeley had ordered most of our equipment by letter, but there still
+remained many things to be done, and for a week or more we were busy
+from morning till night.
+
+It is amazing how much stuff is required to outfit a party of four
+people for an African shooting expedition of several months' duration.
+First in importance come the rifles, then the tents and camp equipment,
+then the clothes and boots, then the medical supplies, and finally the
+food. Perhaps the food might be put first in importance, but just now,
+after a hearty dinner, it seems to be the least important detail.
+
+Many men outfitting for an African campaign among wild animals secure
+their outfits in London. It is there, in modest little shops, that one
+gets the weapons that are known to sportsmen from one end of the world
+to the other--weapons designed expressly for the requirements of African
+shooting, and which have long stood the test of hard, practical service.
+For two days we haunted these famous gun-makers' shops, and for two days
+I made a magnificent attempt to look learnedly at things about which I
+knew little.
+
+[Drawing: _Practising in the Museum_]
+
+At last, after many hours of gun shopping, attended by the constant
+click of a taxicab meter, I assembled such an imposing arsenal that I
+was nervous whenever I thought about it. With such a battery it was a
+foregone conclusion that something, or somebody, was likely to get hurt.
+I hoped that it would be something, and not somebody.
+
+The old-time "elephant gun" which shot an enormous ball and a staggering
+charge of black powder has given way to the modern double-barreled
+rifle, with its steel bullet and cordite powder. It is not half so heavy
+or clumsy as the old timers, but its power and penetration are
+tremendous. The largest of this modern type is the .650 cordite--that
+is, it shoots a bullet six hundred and fifty thousandths of an inch in
+diameter, and has a frightful recoil. This weapon is prohibitive on
+account of its recoil, and few, if any, sportsmen now care to carry one.
+The most popular type is the .450 and .475 cordite double-barreled
+ejector, hammerless rifles, and these are the ones that every elephant
+hunter should have.
+
+We started out with the definite purpose of getting three .450s--one for
+Mr. Akeley, one for Mr. Stephenson, and one for myself; also three
+nine-millimeter (.375) Mannlichers and two .256 Mannlichers. What we
+really got were three .475 cordites, two nine-millimeter Mannlichers,
+one eight-millimeter Mauser, and two .256 Mannlichers. We were switched
+off the .450s because a government regulation forbids the use of that
+caliber in Uganda, although it is permitted in British East Africa, and
+so we played safe by getting the .475s. This rifle is a heavy gun that
+carries a bullet large enough to jolt a fixed star and recoil enough to
+put one's starboard shoulder in the hospital for a day or so.
+Theoretically, the sportsman uses this weapon in close quarters, and
+with a bullet placed according to expert advice sees the charging lion,
+rhino or elephant turn a back somersault on his way to kingdom come. It
+has a tremendous impact and will usually stop an animal even if the
+bullet does not kill it. The bullets of a smaller rifle may kill the
+animal, but not stop it at once. An elephant or lion, with a small
+bullet in its heart, may still charge for fifty or one hundred yards
+before it falls. Hence the necessity for a rifle that will shock as well
+as penetrate.
+
+[Drawing: _Advice from a Cheerful Stranger_]
+
+Several experienced African lion hunters strongly advise taking a
+"paradox," which in their parlance is affectionately called a
+"cripple-stopper." It looks like what one would suppose an elephant gun
+to look like. Its weight is staggering, and it shoots a solid ball,
+backed up by a fearful charge of cordite. They use it under the
+following conditions: Suppose that a big animal has been wounded and not
+instantly killed. It at once assumes the aggressive, and is savage
+beyond belief. The pain of the wound infuriates it and its one object in
+life is to get at the man who shot it. It charges in a well-nigh
+irresistible rush, and no ordinary bullet can stop it unless placed in
+one or two small vital spots. Under the circumstances the hunter may not
+be able to hold his rifle steady enough to hit these aforesaid spots.
+That is when the paradox comes in. The hunter points it in a general way
+in the direction of the oncoming beast, pulls the trigger and hopes for
+the best. The paradox bullet hits with the force of a sledge hammer, and
+stuns everything within a quarter of a mile, and the hunter turns
+several back somersaults from the recoil and fades into bruised
+unconsciousness.
+
+We decided not to get the paradox, preferring to trust to hitting the
+small vital spots rather than transport the weapon by hand through long
+tropical marches.
+
+The nine-millimeter rifles were said to be large enough for nearly all
+purposes, but not reassuring in extremely close quarters. The .256
+Mannlichers are splendid for long range shooting, as they carry a small
+bore bullet and have enormous penetrating power.
+
+The presumption, therefore, was that we should first shoot the lion at
+long range with the .256, then at a shorter range with the
+nine-millimeter, then at close range with the .475 cordite, and then
+perhaps fervently wish that we had the paradox or a balloon.
+
+After getting our arsenal, we then had to get the cartridges, all done
+up in tin boxes of a weight not exceeding sixty pounds, that being the
+limit of weight which the African porter is expected to carry. There
+were several thousand rounds of ammunition, but this did not mean that
+several thousand lions were to be killed. Allowing for a fair percentage
+of misses, we calculated, if lucky, to get one or two lions.
+
+After getting our rifles and ammunition under satisfactory headway, we
+then saw that our seventy-two "chop" boxes of food were sure to be ready
+in time to catch our steamer at Southampton.
+
+And yet these preliminary details did not half conclude our shopping
+preliminaries in London. There were camping rugs, blankets, cork
+mattresses, pillows and pillow cases, bed bags, towels, lanterns,
+mosquito boots, whetstones, hunting and skinning knives, khaki helmets,
+pocket tapes to measure trophies, Pasteur anti-venomous serum,
+hypodermic syringes, chairs, tables, cots, puttees, sweaters, raincoats,
+Jaeger flannels, socks and pajamas, cholera belts, Burberry hunting
+clothes, and lots of other little odds and ends that seemed to be
+necessary.
+
+The clothes were put up in air-proof tin uniform cases, small enough to
+be easily carried by a porter and secure enough to keep out the millions
+of ants that were expected to seek habitation in them.
+
+[Drawing: _Part of the Equipment_]
+
+Most of our equipment, especially the food supplies, had been ordered by
+letter, and these we found to be practically ready. The remaining
+necessities, guns, ammunition, camera supplies, medical supplies,
+clothes, helmets, and so on, we assembled after two days of prodigious
+hustling. There was nothing then to be done except to hope that all our
+mountainous mass of equipment would be safely installed on the steamer
+for Mombasa. This steamer, the _Adolph Woermann_, sailed from Hamburg on
+the fourteenth of August, was due at Southampton on the eighteenth and
+at Naples on the thirtieth. To avoid transporting the hundred cases of
+supplies overland to Naples, it was necessary to get them to Southampton
+on the eighteenth. It was a close shave, for only by sending them down
+by passenger train on that morning were they able to reach Southampton.
+Fortunately our hopes were fulfilled, and at last we received word that
+they were on board and were careening down toward Naples, where we
+expected to join them on the thirtieth.
+
+[Drawing: Map]
+
+[Drawing: Map]
+
+[Drawing: _Studying the Lion's Vital Spots_]
+
+After disposing of this important preliminary, we then had time to visit
+the zoo at South Kensington and the British museum of natural history,
+where we carefully studied many of the animals that we hoped to meet
+later under less formal conditions. We picked out the vital spots, as
+seen from all angles, and nothing then remained to be done but to get
+down to British East Africa with our rifles and see whether we could hit
+those vital spots.
+
+Mr. Akeley had an elaborate moving picture machine and we planned to get
+some excellent pictures of charging animals. The lion, rhino or other
+subject was to be allowed to charge within a few feet of the camera and
+then with a crack of our trusty rifles he was supposed to stop. We
+seemed safe in assuming, even without exaggeration, that this would be
+exciting.
+
+It was at least that.
+
+At last we said farewell to London, a one-sided ceremony, stopped at
+Rheims to see the aviators, joined the Akeleys at Paris, and after
+touching a few of the high spots in Europe, arrived in Naples in ample
+time to catch our boat for Mombasa.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE FIRST HALF OF THE VOYAGE. FROM NAPLES TO THE RED SEA, WITH A FEW
+SIDE LIGHTS ON INDIAN OCEAN TRAVEL
+
+
+Lion hunting had not been fraught with any great hardships or dangers up
+to this time. The Mediterranean was as smooth as a mill-pond, the Suez
+Canal was free from any tempestuous rolling, and the Red Sea was placid
+and hot. After some days we were in the Indian Ocean, plowing lazily
+along and counting the hours until we reached Mombasa. Perhaps after
+that the life of a lion hunter would be less tranquil and calm.
+
+The _Adolph Woermann_ was a six-thousand-three-hundred-ton ship, three
+years old, and so heavily laden with guns and ammunition and steel rails
+for the Tanga Railway that it would hardly roll in a hurricane. There
+were about sixty first-class passengers on board and a fair number in
+the second class. These passengers represented a dozen or so different
+nationalities, and were bound for all sorts of places in East, Central,
+and South Africa. Some were government officials going out to their
+stations, some were army officers, some were professional hunters, and
+some were private hunters going out "for" to shoot.
+
+There were also a number of women on board and some children. I don't
+know how many children there were, but in the early morning there seemed
+to be a great number.
+
+These Indian Ocean steamers are usually filled with an interesting lot
+of passengers. At first you may only speculate as to who and what they
+are and whither they are bound, but as the days go by you get acquainted
+with many of them and find out who nearly everybody is and all about
+him. On this steamer there were several interesting people. First in
+station and importance was Sir Percy Girouard, the newly appointed
+governor of British East Africa, who was going out to Nairobi to take
+his position. Sir Percy is a splendid type of man, only about forty-two
+years old, but with a career that has been filled with brilliant
+achievements. He was born in Canada and was knighted in 1900. He looks
+as Colonel Roosevelt looked ten years ago, and, in spite of a firm,
+definite personality of great strength, is also courteous and kindly. He
+has recently been the governor of northern Nigeria, and before that time
+served in South Africa and the Soudan. It was of him that Lord Kitchener
+said "the Soudan Railway would never have been built without his
+services."
+
+The new governor was accompanied by two staff officers, one a Scotchman
+and the other an Irishman, and both of them with the clean, healthy look
+of the young British army officer. There would be a big reception at
+Mombasa, no doubt, with bands a-playing and fireworks popping, when the
+ship arrived with the new executive.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. "Crossing the Line"
+Ceremonies]
+
+[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson, Mr. and Mrs. Akeley and Mr. McCutcheon.
+Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition]
+
+[Drawing: _Before and After Outfitting_]
+
+There were also several officials with high-sounding titles who were
+going out to their stations in German East Africa. These gentlemen were
+mostly accompanied by wives and babies and between them they imparted a
+spirited scene of domesticity to the life on shipboard. The effect of a
+man wheeling a baby carriage about the deck was to make one think of
+some peaceful place far from the deck of a steamer.
+
+Little Tim was the life of the ship. He was a little boy aged eighteen
+months, who began life at Sombra, in Nyassaland, British Central Africa.
+Just now he was returning from England with his father and mother.
+Little Tim had curly hair, looked something like a brownie, and was
+brimming over with energy and curiosity every moment that he was awake.
+If left alone five minutes he was quite likely to try to climb up the
+rigging. Consequently he was never left alone, and the decks were
+constantly echoing with a fond mother's voice begging him not to "do
+that," or to "come right here, Tim." One of Tim's chief diversions was
+to divest himself of all but his two nearest articles of wear and sit in
+the scuppers with the water turned on. A crowd of passengers was usually
+grouped around him and watched his manoeuvers with intense interest.
+He was probably photographed a hundred times and envied by everybody on
+board. It was so fearfully hot in the Red Sea that to be seated in
+running water with almost no clothes on seemed about the nicest possible
+way to pass the time.
+
+[Drawing: _Little Tim_]
+
+There was a professional elephant hunter on board. He was a quiet,
+reserved sort of man, pleasant, and not at all bloodthirsty in
+appearance. He had spent twenty years shooting in Africa, and had killed
+three hundred elephants. On his last trip, during which he spent nearly
+four years in the Congo, he secured about two and one-half tons of
+ivory. This great quantity of tusks, worth nearly five dollars a pound,
+brought him over twenty thousand dollars, after paying ten per cent. to
+the Congo government. The Belgians place no limit upon the number of
+elephants one may shoot, just so they get their rake-off. In British
+territory, however, sportsmen are limited to only two elephants a year
+to those holding licenses to shoot. Our elephant hunter friend was now
+on his way back to shoot some more.
+
+[Drawing: _The Elephant Hunter and His Bag_]
+
+There was another interesting character on board who caused many of us
+to stop and think. He was a young British army officer who was mauled by
+a lioness several months ago in Somaliland. He now walked with a decided
+limp and was likely to lose his commission in the army because of
+physical infirmities. He was cheerful, pleasant, and looked hopefully
+forward to a time when he could have another go at a lion. This is the
+way the thing happened: Last March he was shooting in Somaliland and ran
+across a lioness. He shot her, but failed to disable her. She
+immediately charged, chewed up his leg, arm and shoulder, and was then
+killed by his Somali gunbearer. He was days from any help. He dressed
+his own wounds and the natives tried to carry him to the nearest
+settlement. Finally his bandages were exhausted, the natives deserted,
+and it was only after frightful suffering that he reached help. In three
+weeks blood poisoning set in, as is usual after the foul teeth of a lion
+have entered the flesh, and for several months he was close to death.
+Now he was up and about, cheerful and sunny, but a serious object lesson
+to the lion hunters bound for the lair of the lion.
+
+In the smoking-room of the _Adolph Woermann_ was a bronze bust of Mr.
+Woermann presented by himself. Whether he meant to perpetuate his own
+memory is not vital to the story. The amusing feature lies in the fact
+that some irreverent passenger, whose soul was dead to the sacredness of
+art, put a rough slouch hat on Mr. Woermann one night, with
+side-splitting results. Mr. W. is a man with a strong, intelligent
+German face, something like that of Prince Henry, and in the statue
+appears with bare neck and shoulders. The addition of a rakish slouch
+hat produced a startling effect, greatly detracting from the strictly
+artistic, but adding much to the interest of the bust. It looked very
+much as though he had been ashore at Aden and had come back on board
+feeling the way a man does when he wants his hat on the side of his
+head. Still, what can a shipowner expect who puts a nude bust of himself
+in his own ship?
+
+[Drawing: _Having Fun with Mr. Woermann_]
+
+[Drawing: _An African Hair-Cut_]
+
+The ship's barber was the Associated Press of the ship's company, and
+his shop was the Park Row of the vessel. He had plenty of things to talk
+about and more than enough words to express them. Every vague rumor that
+floated about was sure to find lodgment in the barber shop, just as a
+piece of driftwood finally reaches the beach. He knew all the secrets of
+the voyage and told them freely.
+
+One day I went down to have my hair trimmed. He asked if I'd have it
+done African style. "How's that?" I inquired. "Shaved," said he, and
+"No," said I. A number of the Germans on board were adopting the African
+style of hair-cut, and the effect was something depressing. Every bump
+that had lain dormant under a mat of hair at once assumed startling
+proportions, and red ears that were retiring suddenly stuck out from the
+pale white scalp like immense flappers. A devotee of this school of
+tonsorial art had a peeled look that did not commend him to favorable
+mention in artistic circles. But the flies, they loved it, so it was an
+ill wind that blew no good.
+
+The Red Sea has a well-earned reputation of being hot. We expected a
+certain amount of sultriness, but not in such lavish prodigality as it
+was delivered. The first day out from Suez found the passengers peeling
+off unnecessary clothes, and the next day found the men sleeping out on
+deck. There wasn't much sleeping. The band concert lasted until
+ten-thirty, then the three Germans who were trying to drink all the beer
+on board gave a nightly saengerfest that lasted until one o'clock, and
+then the men who wash down the decks appeared at four. Between one and
+four it was too hot to sleep, so that there wasn't much restful repose
+on the ship until we got out of the Red Sea.
+
+[Drawing: _We Slept on Deck in the Red Sea_]
+
+Down at the end of the Red Sea are the straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. In the
+middle of the straits is the island of Perim, a sun-baked, bare and
+uninviting chunk of land that has great strategic value and little else.
+It absolutely commands the entrance to the Red Sea, and, naturally, is
+British. Nearly all strategic points in the East are British, from
+Gibraltar to Singapore. A lighthouse, a signal station, and a small
+detachment of troops are the sole points of interest in Perim, and as
+one rides past one breathes a fervent prayer of thanksgiving that he is
+not one of the summer colony on Perim.
+
+They tell a funny story about an English officer who was sent to Perim
+to command the detachment. At the end of six months an official order
+was sent for his transfer, because no one is expected to last longer
+than six months without going crazy or committing suicide. To the great
+surprise of the war office a letter came back stating that the officer
+was quite contented at Perim, that he liked the peace and quiet of the
+place, and begged that he be given leave to remain another six months.
+The war office was amazed, and it gladly gave him the extension. At the
+end of a year the same exchange of letters occurred and again he was
+given the extension.
+
+I don't know how long this continued, but in the end the war office
+discovered that the officer had been in London having a good time while
+a sergeant-major attended to the sending of the biannual letter. I
+suppose the officer divided his pay with the sergeant-major. If he did
+not he was a most ungrateful man.
+
+The _Adolph Woermann_ is a German ship and is one of the best ones that
+go down the east coast. Its passengers go to the British ports in
+British East Africa, to the German ports in German East Africa, and to
+several other ports in South Africa. Consequently the passengers are
+about equally divided between the English and the Germans, with an
+occasional Portuguese bound for Delagoa Bay or Mozambique.
+
+When we first went aboard our party of four desired to secure a table by
+ourselves. We were unsuccessful, however, and found it shared by a
+peaceful old gentleman with whiskers. By crossing with gold the palm of
+the chief steward, the old gentleman was shifted to a seat on the first
+officer's right. Later we discovered that he was Sir Thomas Scanlon, the
+first premier of South Africa, the man who gave Cecil Rhodes his start.
+
+There were many interesting elements which made the cruise of the
+_Woermann_ unusual. Mr. Boyce and his party of six were on board and
+were on their way to photograph East Africa. They took moving pictures
+of the various deck sports, also a bird's-eye picture of the ship, taken
+from a camera suspended by a number of box kites, and also gave two
+evenings of cinematograph entertainment.
+
+There were also poker games, bridge games, and other forms of seaside
+sports, all of which contributed to the gaiety of life in the Indian
+Ocean. In the evening one might have imagined oneself at a London
+music-hall, in the daytime at the Olympian games, and in the early
+morning out on the farm. There were a number of chickens on board and
+each rooster seemed obliged to salute the dawn with a fanfare of
+crowing. They belonged to the governor and were going out to East Africa
+to found a colony of chickens. Some day, years hence, the proud
+descendents of these chickens will boast that their ancestors came over
+on the _Woermann_, just as some people boast about their ancestors on
+the _Mayflower_.
+
+[Drawing: _Mauled by a Lion_]
+
+When we crossed the equator, a committee of strong-arm men baptized
+those of the passengers who had never before crossed the line. Those who
+had crossed the line entered into the fun of the occasion with much
+spirit and enthusiasm.
+
+On the hottest day of the trip, just as we left Suez, when the mercury
+was sputtering from the heat, we heard that the north pole had been
+discovered. It cooled us off considerably for a while.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE ISLAND OF MOMBASA, WITH THE JUNGLES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA "ONLY A FEW
+BLOCKS AWAY." A STORY OF THE WORLD'S CHAMPION MAN-EATING LIONS
+
+
+In this voyage of the _Woermann_ there were about twenty Englishmen and
+thirty Germans in the first class, not including women, and children.
+There was practically no communication between the two nationalities,
+which seemed deeply significant in these days when there is so much talk
+of war between England and Germany. Each went his way without so much as
+a "good morning" or a _guten abend_. And it was not a case of
+unfamiliarity with the languages, either, that caused this mutual
+restraint, for most of the Germans speak English. It was simply an
+evidence that at the present time there is decidedly bad feeling between
+the two races, and if it is a correct barometer of conditions in Europe,
+there is certain to be war one of these days. On the _Woermann_, we only
+hoped that it would not break out while the weather was as hot as it was
+at that time.
+
+The Germans are not addicted to deck sports while voyaging about, and it
+is quite unusual to find on German ships anything in the way of deck
+competition. The German, while resting, prefers to play cards, or sing,
+or sit in his long easy chair with the children playing about. The
+Englishman likes to compete in feats of strength and takes to deck
+sports as a duck takes to water. I don't know who started it, but some
+one organized deck sports on the _Woermann_, and after we left Aden the
+sound of battle raged without cessation. Some of the competitions were
+amusing. For instance, there was the cockfight. Two men, with hands and
+knees hobbled with a stick and stout rope, seat themselves inside a
+circle, and the game is for each one to try to put the other outside the
+circle. Neither can use his hands.
+
+[Drawing: _The Cock Fight_]
+
+It is like wrestling in a sitting position with both hands tied, the
+mode of attack being to topple over one's opponent and then bunt him out
+of the circle. There is considerable skill in the game and a fearful lot
+of hard work. By the time the victor has won, the seat of the trousers
+of each of the two contending heroes has cleaned the deck until it
+shines--the deck, not the trousers.
+
+In a similar way the deck is benefited by the "are you there" game. Two
+men are blindfolded, armed with long paper clubs, and then lie at full
+length on the deck, with left hands clasped. One then says, "Are you
+there?" and when the other answers, "I am," he makes a wild swat at
+where he thinks the other's head to be. Of course, when the man says "I
+am," he immediately gets his head as far away from where it was when he
+spoke as is possible while clasping his opponent's hand. The "Are you
+there" man makes a wild swing and lands some place with a prodigious
+thump. He usually strikes the deck and seldom hits the head of the other
+man. If one of them hits the other's head three times he wins. In the
+meantime the deck has been thoroughly massaged by the two recumbent
+heroes as they have moved back and forth in their various offensive and
+defensive manoeuvers.
+
+[Drawing: "_Are You There?_"]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Study in Mombasa Shadows]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mombasa Is a Pretty Place]
+
+[Photograph: Transportation in Mombasa]
+
+[Drawing: _The Spar and Pillow Fight_]
+
+The pillow fight on the spar is the most fun. Two gladiators armed with
+pillows sit astride a spar and try to knock each other off. It requires
+a good deal of knack to keep your balance while some one is pounding you
+with a large pillow. You are not allowed to touch the spar with your
+hands, hence the difficulty of holding a difficult position. When a man
+begins to waver the other redoubles his attack, and slowly at first, but
+surely, the defeated gladiator tumbles off the spar into a canvas
+stretched several feet below. It is lots of fun, especially for the
+spectator and the winner.
+
+Then, of course, there were other feats of intellectual and physical
+prowess in the _Woermann_ competition, such as threading the needle,
+where you run across the deck, thread a needle held by a woman, and then
+drag her back to the starting point. The woman usually, in the
+excitement of the last spirited rush, falls over and is bodily dragged
+several yards, squealing wildly and waving a couple of much agitated
+deck shoes, and so forth.
+
+Similar to this contest is the one where the gentleman dashes across the
+deck with several other equally dashing gentlemen, kneels at the feet of
+a woman who ties his necktie and then lights his cigarette. The game is
+to see who can do this the quickest and get back to the starting place
+first. If you have ever tried to light a cigarette in a terrible hurry
+and on a windy deck, you will appreciate the elements of uncertainty in
+the game.
+
+These deck sports served to amuse and divert during the six days on the
+Indian Ocean, and then the ship's chart said that we were almost at
+Mombasa. The theoretical stage of the lion hunt was nearly over and it
+was now a matter of only a few days until we should be up against the
+"real thing." I sometimes wondered how I should act with a hostile lion
+in front of me--whether I would become panic-stricken or whether my
+nerve would hold true. There is lots of food for reverie when one is
+going against big game for the first time.
+
+[Drawing: _Chalking the Pig's Eye_]
+
+We landed at Mombasa September sixteenth, seventeen days out from
+Naples.
+
+Mombasa is a little island about two by three miles in extent. It is
+riotous with brilliant vegetation, and, as seen after a long sea voyage
+through the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean, it looks heavenly except for
+the heat. Hundreds of great baobab trees with huge, bottle-like trunks
+and hundreds of broad spreading mango trees give an effect of tropical
+luxuriance that is hardly to be excelled in beauty anywhere in the East.
+Large ships that stop at the island usually wind their course through a
+narrow channel and land their passengers and freight at the dock at
+Kilindini, a mile and a half from the old Portuguese town of Mombasa,
+where all the life of the island is centered. There are many relics of
+the old days around the town of Mombasa and the port of Kilindini, but
+since the British have been in possession a brisk air of progress and
+enterprise is evident everywhere. Young men and young women in tennis
+flannels, and other typical symptoms of British occupation are
+constantly seen, and one entirely forgets that one is several thousand
+miles from home and only a few blocks from the jungles of equatorial
+Africa. We dreaded Mombasa before we arrived, but were soon agreeably
+disappointed to find it not only beautiful and interesting, but also
+pleasantly cool and full of most hospitable social life.
+
+When our ship anchored off Kilindini there was a great crowd assembled
+on the pier. There were many smart looking boats, manned with uniformed
+natives, that at once came out to the ship, and we knew that the town
+was _en fete_ to welcome the newly appointed governor, Sir Percy
+Girouard.
+
+He and his staff landed in full uniform. There were addresses of welcome
+at the pier, a great deal of cheering and considerable photographing.
+Then the rest of the passengers went ashore and spent several hours at
+the custom house. All personal luggage was passed through, and we
+embarked on a little train for Mombasa. The next day we registered our
+firearms and had Smith, Mackenzie and Company do the rest. This firm is
+ubiquitous in Mombasa and Zanzibar. They attend to everything for you,
+and relieve you from much worry, vexation and rupees. They pay your
+customs duties, get your mountains of stuff on the train for Nairobi,
+and all you have to do is to pay them a commission and look pleasant.
+The customs duty is ten per cent. on everything you have, and the
+commission is five per cent. But in a hot climate, where one is apt to
+feel lazy, the price is cheap.
+
+Thanks to the governor, our party of four was invited to go to Nairobi
+on his special train. It left Mombasa on the morning of the nineteenth
+of September, and at once began to climb toward the plateau on which
+Nairobi is situated, three hundred and twenty-seven miles away. We had
+dreaded the railway ride through the lowlands along the coast, for that
+district has a bad reputation for fever and all such ills. But again we
+were pleasantly disappointed. The country was beautiful and interesting,
+and at four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Voi, a spot that is
+synonymous with human ailments. It is one of the famous ill health
+resorts of Africa, but on this occasion it was on its good behavior. We
+stopped four hours, inspected everything in sight, and at eight o'clock
+the special began to climb toward the plateau of East Africa. At nine
+o'clock we stopped at Tsavo, a place made famous by the two man-eating
+lions whose terrible depredations have been so vividly described by
+Colonel Patterson in his book, _The Man Eaters of Tsavo_. These two
+lions absolutely stopped all work on the railroad for a period of
+several weeks. They were daring beyond belief, and seemed to have no
+fear of human beings. For a time all efforts to kill them were in vain.
+Twenty-eight native workmen were eaten by them, and doubtless many more
+were unrecorded victims of their activity. The whole country was
+terrorized until finally, after many futile attempts, they were at last
+killed.
+
+No book on Africa seems complete unless this incident is mentioned
+somewhere within its pages.
+
+We looked out at Tsavo with devouring interest. All was still, with the
+dead silence of a tropical night. Then the train steamed on and we had
+several hours in a berth to think the matter over. In the early hours of
+morning, we stopped at Simba, the "Place of Lions," where the
+station-master has many lion scares even now. In the cold darkness of
+the night we bundled up in thick clothes and went forward to sit on the
+observation seat of the engine. Slowly the eastern skies became gray,
+then pink, and finally day broke through heavy masses of clouds. It was
+intensely cold. In the faint light we could see shadowy figures of
+animals creeping home after their night's hunting. A huge cheetah
+bounded along the track in front of us. A troop of giraffes slowly
+ambled away from the track. A gaunt hyena loped off into the scrub near
+the side of the railroad and then, as daylight became brighter, we found
+ourselves in the midst of thousands of wild animals. Zebras,
+hartebeests, Grant's gazelles, Thompson's gazelles, impalla, giraffes,
+wildebeests, and many other antelope species cantered off and stood to
+watch the train as it swept past them. It was a wonderful ride, perhaps
+the most novel railway ride to be found any place in the world. On each
+side of the Uganda Railroad there is a strip of land, narrow on the
+north and wide on the south, in which game is protected from the
+sportsman, and consequently the animals have learned to regard these
+strips as sanctuary. There were many tales of lions as we rode along,
+and the imagination pictured a slinking lion in every patch of reeds
+along the way. I heard one lion story that makes the man-eaters of Tsavo
+seem like vegetarians. It was told to me by a gentleman high in the
+government service--a man of unimpeachable veracity. He says the story
+is absolutely true, but refused to swear to it.
+
+Once upon a time, so the story goes, there was a caravan of slaves
+moving through the jungles of Africa. The slave-drivers were cruel and
+they chained the poor savages together in bunches of ten. Each slave
+wore an iron ring around his neck and the chain passed through this ring
+and on to the rest of the ten. For days and weeks and months they
+marched along, their chains clanking and their shoulders bending beneath
+the heavy weight. From time to time the slave-drivers would jog them
+along with a few lashes from a four-cornered "hippo" hide _kiboko_, or
+whip. Quite naturally the life was far from pleasant to the chain-gang
+and they watched eagerly for a chance to escape. Finally one dark night,
+when the sentinels were asleep, a bunch of ten succeeded in creeping
+away into the darkness. They were unarmed and chained from neck to neck,
+one to another. For several days they made their way steadily toward the
+coast. All seemed well. They ate fruit and nuts and herbs and began to
+see visions of a pleasant arrival at the coast.
+
+[Drawing: _They Made Their Way Steadily Toward the Coast_]
+
+But, alas! Their hopes were soon to be dispelled. One night a deep
+rumbling roar was heard in the jungle through which they were picking
+their unanimous way. A shudder ran through the slaves. "_Simba_," they
+whispered in terror. A little while later there was another rumble, this
+time much closer. They speedily became more frightened. Here they were,
+ten days' march from the coast, unarmed, and quite defenseless against a
+lion.
+
+Presently the lion appeared, his cruel, hungry eyes gleaming through the
+night. They were frozen with horror, as slowly, slowly, slowly the great
+animal crept toward them with his tail sibilantly lashing above his
+back. They were now thoroughly alarmed and realized to the utmost that
+the lion's intentions were open to grave suspicion. Breathlessly they
+waited, or perhaps they tried to climb trees, but being chained together
+they could not climb more than one tree. And there was not a single tree
+big enough to hold more than nine of them. The record of the story is
+now obscure, but the horrid tale goes on to relate that the lion gave a
+frightful roar and leaped upon the tenth man, biting him to death in a
+single snap. The dilemma of the others is obvious. They knew better than
+to disturb a lion while it is eating. To do so would be to court sudden
+death. So they sat still and watched the beast slowly and greedily
+devour their comrade. Having finished his meal the great beast,
+surfeited with food, slowly moved off into the jungle.
+
+[Drawing: _The Lion's Intentions Were Open to Grave Suspicions_]
+
+Immediately the nine remaining slaves took to their heels, dragging the
+empty ring and chain of the late number ten. All night long they ran
+until finally they became exhausted and fell asleep. In the afternoon
+they again resumed their march, hopeful once more. But alas! again.
+
+Along about supper-time they heard the distant roar of a lion. Presently
+it sounded nearer and soon the gleaming eyes of the lion appeared once
+more among the jungle grass. Once again they were frozen with horror as
+the hungry beast devoured the last man in the row--number nine. Again
+they sat helpless while the man-eater slowly finished his supper, and
+again they were overjoyed to see him depart from their midst. As soon as
+the last vestige of his tail had disappeared from view they scrambled up
+and hiked briskly toward the coast, nine days away.
+
+[Drawing: _While the Man-Eater Finished His Supper_]
+
+They were now thoroughly alarmed, and almost dreaded the supper hour.
+The next night the lion caught up with them again and proceeded to
+devour number eight. He then peacefully ambled away, leaving another
+empty ring.
+
+The next night there was a spirited contest to see which end of the
+chain should be last, but a vote was taken and it was decided six to one
+in favor of continuing in their original formation. The one who voted
+against was eaten that night and the remaining six, with the four empty
+rings clanking behind them, resumed their mournful march to the coast,
+six days away.
+
+[Drawing: _Two to One_]
+
+For five nights after this, the lion caught up with them and diminished
+their number by five. Finally there was only one left and the coast was
+a full day's march away. Could he make it? It looked like a desperate
+chance, but he still had hopes. He noticed with pleasure that the lion
+was becoming fat and probably could not travel fast. But he also noticed
+with displeasure that he had forty feet of chain and nine heavy iron
+neck rings to lug along and that extra weight naturally greatly
+handicapped him. It was a thrilling race--the coast only one day away
+and life or death the prize! Who can imagine the feelings of the poor
+slave? But with a stout heart he struggled on through poisonous
+morasses, and pushed his way through snaky creepers. The afternoon sun
+slowly sank toward the western horizon and--
+
+The locomotive at this point of the story screeched loudly. The wheels
+grated on the track and my official friend leaped off the cow-catcher.
+
+"Here!" I shouted, "what's the finish of that story?"
+
+"I'll tell you the rest the next time I see you," he sang out, and so I
+don't know just how the story ended.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ON THE EDGE OF THE ATHI PLAINS, FACE TO FACE WITH GREAT HERDS OF WILD
+GAME. UP IN A BALLOON AT NAIROBI
+
+
+Before Colonel Roosevelt drew the eyes of the world on British East
+Africa Nairobi was practically unheard of. The British colonial office
+knew where it was and a fair number of English sportsmen had visited it
+in the last six or eight years. Perhaps twenty-five or thirty Americans
+had been in Nairobi on their way to the rich game fields that lie in all
+directions from the town, but beyond these few outsiders the place was
+unknown. Now it is decidedly on the map, thanks to our gallant and
+picturesque Theodore. It has been mentioned in book and magazine to a
+degree that nearly everybody can tell in a general way where and what it
+is, even if he can not pronounce it.
+
+Before coming to Nairobi I had read a lot about it, and yet when I
+reached the place it seemed as though the descriptions had failed to
+prepare me for what I saw. We arrived under unusual conditions. Files of
+native soldiers were lined up on the platform of the station to welcome
+the new governor, and the whole white population of the town, several
+hundred in number, were massed in front of the building. The roofs and
+trees were filled with natives and the broad open space beyond the
+station was fringed with pony carts, bullock carts, rickshaws, cameras,
+and some hotel 'buses. Several thousand people, mostly East Indians and
+natives, were among those present. Lord Delamere, who has adopted East
+Africa as his home, and who owns a hundred thousand acres or so of game
+preserves, read an address of welcome, and Sir Percy, in white uniform
+and helmet, responded with a speech that struck a popular note. There
+were dozens of cameras snapping and the whole effect was distinctly
+festive in appearance.
+
+[Drawing: _In the Back Yard of Nairobi_]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Dressed to Kill]
+
+[Photograph: Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition. The Balloon
+Ascension]
+
+[Photograph: Courtesy of Boyce Balloonagraph Expedition. The Norfolk
+Hotel, Nairobi]
+
+The town lies on the edge of the Athi Plains, a broad sweep of
+sun-bleached grass veldt many miles in extent. From almost any part of
+the town one may look out on plains where great herds of wild game are
+constantly in sight. In an hour's leisurely walk from the station a man
+with a gun can get hartebeest, zebra, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's
+gazelle, impalla, and probably wildebeest. One can not possibly count
+the number of animals that feed contentedly within sight of the town of
+Nairobi, and it is difficult to think that one is not looking out upon a
+collection of domesticated game. Sometimes, as happened two nights
+before we reached Nairobi, a lion will chase a herd of zebra and the
+latter in fright will tear through the town, destroying gardens and
+fences and flowers in a mad stampede. We met one man who goes out ten
+minutes from town every other day and kills a kongoni (hartebeest) as
+food for his dogs. If you were disposed to do so you could kill dozens
+every day with little effort and almost no diminution of the visible
+supply.
+
+Nairobi is new and unattractive. There is one long main thoroughfare,
+quite wide and fringed with trees, along which at wide intervals are the
+substantial looking stone building of the Bank of India, the business
+houses, the hotels, and numbers of cheap corrugated iron, one-story
+shacks used for government purposes. A native barracks with low iron
+houses and some more little iron houses used for medical experiments and
+still some more for use as native hospitals are encountered as one takes
+the half-mile ride from the station to the hotel. A big square filled
+with large trees marks the park, and a number of rather pretentious
+one-story buildings display signs that tell you where you may buy almost
+anything, from a suit of clothes to a magazine rifle.
+
+[Drawing: _The Main Street Is a Busy Place_]
+
+Goanese, East Indian, and European shops are scattered at intervals
+along this one long, wide street. Rickshaws, pedestrians, bullock carts,
+horsemen, and heavily burdened porters are passing constantly back and
+forth, almost always in the middle of the street. Bicycles, one or two
+motorcycles, and a couple of automobiles are occasionally to be seen.
+The aspect of the town suggests the activity of a new frontier place
+where everybody is busy. At one end the long street loses itself in the
+broad Athi Plains, at the other it climbs up over some low hills and
+enters the residence district on higher ground. Here the hills are
+generously covered with a straggly growth of tall, ungraceful trees,
+among which, almost hidden from view, are the widely scattered bungalows
+of the white population.
+
+[Photograph: An Embo Apollo]
+
+
+[Photograph: The Askari Patrols the Camp]
+
+Branching off from the main street are side streets, some of them
+thronged with East Indian bazaars, about which may be found all the
+phases of life of an Indian city. Still beyond and parallel with the one
+main street are sparsely settled streets which look ragged with their
+tin shacks and scattered gardens.
+
+Nairobi is not a beautiful place, but it is new and busy, and the people
+who live there are working wonders in changing a bad location into what
+some day will be a pretty place. It is over five thousand feet high,
+healthy, and cold at night. Away off in the hills a mile or more from
+town is Government House, where the governor lives, and near by is the
+club and a new European hospital, looking out over a sweep of country
+that on clear days includes Kilima-Njaro, over a hundred miles to the
+southeast, and Mount Kenia, a hundred miles northeast.
+
+You are still in civilization in Nairobi. Anything you want you may buy
+at some of the shops, and almost anything you may want to eat or drink
+may easily be had. There are weekly newspapers, churches, clubs, hotels,
+and nearly all the by-products of civilization. One could live in
+Nairobi, only a few miles from the equator, wear summer clothes at noon
+and winter clothes at night, keep well, and not miss many of the
+luxuries of life. The telegraph puts you in immediate touch with the
+whole wide world, and on the thirtieth of September you can read the
+Chicago _Tribune_ of August thirty-first.
+
+At present the chief revenue of the government is derived from shooting
+parties, and the officials are doing all they can to encourage the
+coming of sportsmen. Each man who comes to shoot must pay two hundred
+and fifty dollars for his license as well as employ at least thirty
+natives for his transport. He must buy supplies, pay ten per cent.
+import and export tax, and in many other ways spend money which goes
+toward paying the expenses of government. The government also is
+encouraging various agricultural and stock raising experiments, but
+these have not yet passed the experimental stage. Almost anything may be
+grown in British East Africa, but before agriculture can be made to pay
+the vast herds of wild game must either be exterminated or driven away.
+No fence will keep out a herd of zebra, and in one rush a field of grain
+is ruined by these giant herds. Experiments have failed satisfactorily
+to domesticate the zebra, and so he remains a menace to agriculture and
+a nuisance in all respects except as adding a picturesque note to the
+landscape.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt, in a recent speech in Nairobi, spoke of British East
+Africa as a land of enormous possibilities and promise, but in talks
+with many men here I found that little money has been made by those who
+have gone into agriculture in a large way. Drought and predatory herds
+of game have introduced an element of uncertainty which has made
+agriculture, as at present developed, unsatisfactory.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt has become a popular idol in East Africa. Everywhere
+one meets Englishmen who express the greatest admiration for him. He has
+shrewdly analyzed conditions as they now exist and has picked out the
+weak spots in the government. For many years prior to the arrival of Sir
+Percy Girouard the country has been administered by weak executives, and
+its progress has been greatly retarded thereby. The last governor was
+kind, but inefficient, and some months ago was sent to the West Indies,
+where he is officially buried. Roosevelt came, sized up the situation,
+and made a speech at a big banquet in Nairobi. Nearly two hundred white
+men in evening clothes were there. They came from all parts of East
+Africa, and listened with admiration to the plain truths that Theodore
+Roosevelt told them in the manner of a Dutch uncle. Since then he has
+owned the country and could be elected to any office within the gift of
+the people. He talked for over an hour, and it must have been a great
+speech, if one may judge by the enthusiastic comments I have heard about
+it. When an Englishman gets enthusiastic about a speech by an American
+it must be a pretty good speech.
+
+Newland and Tarlton is the firm that outfits most shooting parties that
+start out from Nairobi. They do all the preliminary work and relieve you
+of most of the worry. If you wish them to do so, they will get your
+complete outfit, so you need not bring anything with you but a suitcase.
+They will get your guns, your tents, your food supplies, your mules,
+your head-man, your cook, your gunbearers, your askaris (native
+soldiers), your interpreter, your ammunition, and your porters. They
+will have the whole outfit ready for you by the time you arrive in
+Nairobi. When you arrive in British East Africa, a-shooting bent, you
+will hear of Newland and Tarlton so often that you will think they own
+the country.
+
+Mr. Newland met us in Mombasa, and through his agents sent all of our
+London equipment of tents and guns and ammunition and food up to
+Nairobi. When we arrived in Nairobi he had our porters ready, together
+with tent boys, gunbearers, and all the other members of our _safari_,
+and in three days we were ready to march. The firm has systematized
+methods so much that it is simple for them to do what would be matters
+of endless worry to the stranger. In course of time you pay the price,
+and in our case it seemed reasonable, when one considers the work and
+worry involved. Most English sportsmen come out in October and November,
+after which time the shooting is at its height. Two years ago there were
+sixty _safaris_, or shooting expeditions, sent out from Nairobi. When we
+left, late in September, there were about thirty.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Great White Way in
+Nairobi]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce The Busiest Place in Nairobi]
+
+[Photograph: Umbrella Acacias]
+
+[Drawing: _The New Governor Looks Something Like Roosevelt_]
+
+Each party must have from thirty to a couple of hundred camp attendants,
+depending upon the number of white men in the party. Each white man,
+requires, roughly, thirty natives to take care of him. In our party of
+four white people we had one hundred and eighteen. One would presume
+that the game would speedily be exterminated, yet it is said that the
+game is constantly increasing. After one day's ride on the railway it
+would be hard to conceive of game being more plentiful than it was while
+we were there. Mr. Roosevelt carried nearly three hundred men with him,
+collected a great quantity of game, and necessarily spent a great deal
+of money. It is said that the expenses of his expedition approached ten
+thousand dollars a month, but the chances are that this figure is much
+more than the actual figure.
+
+At the time of our arrival there was a shortage in the porter supply,
+and we were obliged to take out men from a number of different tribes.
+Swahili porters are considered the best, but there are not enough to go
+round, so we had to take Swahilis, Bagandas, Kikuyus, Kavirondos,
+Lumbwas, Minyamwezis, and a lot more of assorted races. Each porter
+carries sixty pounds on his head, and when the whole outfit is on the
+trail it looks like a procession of much importance.
+
+The Norfolk Hotel is the chief rendezvous of Nairobi. In the course of
+the afternoon nearly all the white men on hunting bent show up at the
+hotel and patronize the bar. They come in wonderful hunting regalia and
+in all the wonderful splendor of the Britisher when he is afield. There
+is nearly always a great coming and going of men riding up, and of
+rickshaws arriving and departing. Usually several tired sportsmen are
+stretched out on the veranda of the long one-storied building, reading
+the ancient London papers that are lying about. Professional guides,
+arrayed in picturesque Buffalo Bill outfits, with spurs and
+hunting-knives and slouch hats, are among those present, and amateur
+sportsmen in crisp khaki and sun helmets and new puttees swagger back
+and forth to the bar. There is no denying the fact that there is
+considerable drinking in Nairobi. There was as much before we got there
+as there was after we got there, however. After the arrival of the
+European steamer at Mombasa business is brisk for several days as the
+different parties sally forth for the wilds.
+
+[Drawing: _At the Norfolk Hotel Bar_]
+
+On our ship there were four different parties. A young American from
+Boston, who has been spending several years doing archaeological work in
+Crete, accompanied by a young English cavalry officer, were starting out
+for a six-weeks' shoot south of the railway and near Victoria Nyanza.
+
+Two professional ivory hunters were starting for German East Africa by
+way of the lake. Mr. Boyce and his African balloonograph party of seven
+white men were preparing for the photographing expedition in the Sotik,
+and our party of four was making final preparations for our march.
+Consequently there was much hurrying about, and Newland and Tarlton's
+warehouse was the center of throngs of waiting porters and the scene of
+intense activity as each party sorted and assembled its mountains of
+supplies.
+
+Seager and Wormald got off first, going by train to Kijabe, where they
+were to begin their ten days' march in the Sotik. Here they were to try
+their luck for two or three weeks and then march back, preparatory to
+starting home.
+
+The professional ivory hunters were slow in starting. There was delay in
+getting mules. One of them had shot three hundred elephants in the
+Belgian Congo during the last four years, and it was suspected he had
+been poaching. The other had been caught by the Belgian authorities on
+his last trip, lost all his ivory and guns by confiscation, but was
+ready to make another try. The ivory game is a rich one and there are
+always venturesome men who are willing to take chances with the law in
+getting the prizes.
+
+The Boyce party with its two balloons and its great number of box kites
+and its moving picture equipment and its twenty-nine cameras and its
+vast equipment was slow in starting, but it expected to get away on
+September twenty-fourth, the day after we left. They planned to fill
+their balloon in Nairobi and tow it at the end of a special train as far
+as Kijabe, where they were to strike inland from the railway. They were
+encamped on a hill overlooking the city, with their two hundred and
+thirty porters ready for the field and their balloon ready to make the
+first ascension ever attempted in East Africa.
+
+Throngs of natives squatted about, watching the final preparations, and
+doubtless wondered what the strange, swaying object was. On the evening
+of the twenty-second the party gave a moving picture show at one of the
+clubs for the benefit of St. Andrew's church. A great crowd of
+fashionably dressed people turned out and saw the motion picture records
+of events which they had seen in life only a couple of days before.
+There were moving pictures of the arrival of the governor's special
+train, his march through the city, and many other events that were fresh
+in the minds of the audience. There were also motion pictures taken on
+the ship that brought us down from Naples to Mombasa, and it was most
+interesting to see our fellow passengers and friends reproduced before
+us in their various athletic activities while on shipboard. Mr. Boyce
+gave an afternoon show for children, an evening show for grown-ups, and
+was to give another for the natives the following night. The charities
+of Nairobi were much richer because of Mr. Boyce and his African
+Balloonograph Expedition.
+
+While in Nairobi we visited the little station where experiments are
+being made in the "sleeping sickness." An intelligent young English
+doctor is conducting the investigations and great hopes are entertained
+of much new information about that most mysterious ailment that has
+swept whole colonies of blacks away in the last few years.
+
+In many little bottles were specimens of the deadly tsetse fly that
+causes all the infection. And the most deadly of all was the small one
+whose distinguishing characteristic was its wings, which crossed over
+its back. These we were told to look out for and to avoid them, if
+possible. They occur only in certain districts and live in the deep
+shade, near water. They also are day-biting insects, who do their biting
+only between eleven o'clock in the morning and five o'clock in the
+afternoon.
+
+In the station there were a number of monkeys, upon which the fly was
+being tried. They were in various stages of the disease, but it seemed
+impossible to tell whether their illness was due to the sleeping
+sickness germ or was due to tick fever, a common malady among monkeys.
+In one of the rooms of the laboratory there were natives holding little
+cages of tsetse flies against the monkeys, which were pinioned to the
+floor by the natives. The screened cages were held close to the stomach
+of the helpless monkey, and little apertures in the screen permitted the
+fly to settle upon and bite the animal.
+
+There are certain wide belts of land in Africa called the "tsetse fly
+belts," where horses, mules and cattle can not live. These districts
+have been known for a number of years, long before the sleeping sickness
+became known. In the case of animals, the danger could be minimized by
+keeping the animals out of those belts, but in the case of humans the
+same can not be done. One infected native from a sleeping sickness
+district can carry the disease from one end of the country to the other,
+and when once it breaks out the newly infected district is doomed.
+Consequently the British authorities are greatly alarmed, for by means
+of this deadly fly the whole population of East Africa might be wiped
+out if no remedy is discovered. It has not yet been absolutely proven
+that East Africa is a "white man's country," and in the end it may be
+necessary for him to give up hope of making it more than a place of
+temporary residence and exploration.
+
+We were also shown some ticks. They are the pests of Africa. They exist
+nearly every place and carry a particularly malicious germ that gives
+one "tick fever." It is not a deadly fever, but it is recurrent and
+weakening. There are all kinds of ticks, from little red ones no bigger
+than a grain of pepper to big fat ones the size of a finger-nail, that
+are exactly the color of the ground. They seem to have immortal life,
+for they can exist for a long time without food. Doctor Ward told us of
+some that he had put in a box, where they lived four years without food
+or water. He also told us of one that was sent to the British museum,
+put on a card with a pin through it, and lived over two years in this
+condition. It is assumed, however, that it sustained fatal injuries,
+because after a two years' fight against its wound it finally succumbed.
+
+We were told to avoid old camping grounds while on _safari_, because
+these spots were usually much infested with ticks waiting for new
+camping parties. Wild game is always covered with ticks and carries them
+all over the land. As you walk through the grass in the game country the
+ticks cling to your clothes and immediately seek for an opening where
+they may establish closer relations with you. Some animals, like the
+rhino and the eland, have tick birds that sit upon their backs and eat
+the ticks. The egrets police the eland and capture all predatory ticks,
+while the rhino usually has half a dozen little tick birds sitting upon
+him.
+
+However, we were starting out in a day or so, and in a few days expected
+to learn a lot more about ticks than we then knew.
+
+It is supposed to require a certain amount of nerve to go lion shooting.
+It is also supposed to require an additional amount to face an angry
+rhino or to attempt to get African buffalo. The last-named creature is a
+vindictive, crafty beast that is feared by old African hunters more than
+they fear any other animal. In consequence of these dangers we decided
+that it might be well to give our nerves a thorough test before going
+out with them. If they were not in good condition it would be well to
+know of it before rather than after going up against a strange and
+hostile lion.
+
+That is why we went up in the balloon in Nairobi. The balloon was one of
+the two Boyce balloons and had never been tried. It was small, of twelve
+thousand cubic feet capacity, as compared with the seventy thousand foot
+balloons that do the racing. It was also being tried at an altitude of
+over five thousand feet under uncertain wind and heat conditions, and so
+the element of uncertainty was aggravated. We felt that if we could go
+up in a new balloon of a small size it might demonstrate whether we
+should later go up a tree or stand pat against a charging menagerie.
+
+There was a great crowd gathered on the hill where this balloon was
+being inflated. Since five o'clock in the morning the gas had been
+generating in the wooden tanks, and from these was being conducted by a
+cloth tube to the mouth of the balloon. The natives squatted wonderingly
+about in a circle, mystified and excited. At three o'clock the balloon
+was over half filled and was swaying savagely at its anchorage. A strong
+wind was blowing, and Mr. Lawrence, who had charge of the ascension, was
+apprehensive. He feared to fill the balloon to its capacity lest the
+expansion of the gas due to the hot sun should explode it.
+
+At half past three the basket was attached and it looked small--about
+the size of a large bushel basket, three feet in diameter and three feet
+deep. The balloon, heavily laden with sand-bags, was lightened until it
+could almost rise, and in this condition was led across to an open spot
+sufficiently far from the nearest trees. The crowd thronged up pop-eyed
+and quivering with excitement. Then there was a long wait until the wind
+had died down a bit, which it did after a while. The eventful moment had
+arrived, and Mr. Stephenson, of our party, climbed into the basket. He
+is only six feet five inches in height and weighs only two hundred and
+thirty pounds. He had on a pair of heavy hunting boots, for we were
+leaving for the hunting grounds immediately after the ascension. One by
+one the restraining bags of sand were taken off, but still the balloon
+sat on the ground without any inclination to do otherwise.
+
+A wave of disappointment spread over the crowd. Suddenly a brilliant
+inspiration struck the gallant aeronaut. He took off one of his heavy
+hunting boots and cast it overboard. The balloon arose a foot or two and
+then sagged back to earth. Then the other boot was cast over and the
+balloon rose several feet, swaying and whipping savagely over the heads
+of the crowd. The wind was now blowing pretty hard, and when the wire
+was run out the balloon started almost horizontally for the nearest
+tree, rising slightly.
+
+[Drawing: _Throwing Out Ballast_]
+
+The wire was stopped at once and the balloon thus suddenly restrained,
+changed its horizontal course to an upward one. At about sixty feet up
+the wire was again paid out and the balloon made a dash for the trees
+again. Once more the balloon was stopped and rose to a height of one
+hundred and fifty feet, where it swayed about with the pleasant face of
+Stephenson looking over the edge of the basket. He had to sit down, as
+there was not room to stand. The ascension seemed a failure with the
+handicap of two hundred and thirty pounds, and so the balloon was reeled
+down to the earth again. It was not a great ascension, but the amateur
+aeronaut had gained the distinction of making the first balloon
+ascension ever made in East Africa. He would have gone higher if his
+shoes had been heavier.
+
+To me fell the next chance, and I knew that my one hundred and forty
+pounds would not seriously handicap the balloon. Once more there was a
+long wait until the wind died down, and all of a sudden the cylinder of
+wire was released and the ground sank hundreds of feet below me. The
+horizon widened and the whole vast plain of the African highlands
+stretched out with an ever-widening horizon. New mountain peaks rose far
+away and native villages with ant-like people moving about appeared in
+unexpected quarters. Away below, the crowd of people looked like little
+insects as they gazed up at the balloon. Grasping the ropes that led
+from the basket to the balloon, I stood and waved at them and could hear
+the shouts come up from a thousand feet below.
+
+I was not frightened. There was no sensation of motion as long as the
+balloon was ascending. Aside from looking at the wonderful scene that
+opened out before me, I believe I thought chiefly about where I should
+land in case the wire broke. The balloon would undoubtedly go many miles
+before descending, and five miles in any direction would lead me into a
+primitive jungle or veldt. A hundred miles would take me into almost
+unexplored districts in some directions, where the natives would greet
+me as some supernatural being. Perhaps I might be greeted as a god
+and--just in the midst of these reflections they began to reel in the
+balloon. The sudden stopping was not pleasant, for then the balloon
+began to sway. Slowly the earth came nearer and the wind howled through
+the rigging and the partly filled bag flapped and thundered. The wire,
+about as thick as a piano wire, looked frail, but at last after a slow
+and tedious descent a safe landing was made amid the wondering natives.
+Cameras clicked and the moving picture machine worked busily as the
+balloon was secured to earth again.
+
+To Mrs. Akeley of our party fell the next chance to go up. As she was
+lifted into the basket the feminine population of Nairobi gazed in
+wonder that a woman should dare venture up in a balloon. The cameras
+clicked some more, somebody shook hands with her, and it began to look
+quite like a leave-taking. Just when all was ready the wind sprang up
+savagely and an ascension seemed inexpedient. There was a long wait and
+still the wind continued in gusts. At last it was determined that we
+might as well settle down for better conditions, so Mrs. Akeley was
+lifted out and we waited impatiently for the wind to die down.
+
+At last it died down, all was hurriedly prepared for the ascension, and
+Mrs. Akeley took her place again in the basket. In an instant the
+balloon shot up a couple of hundred feet and was held there for a
+moment. The wind once more sprang up and the balloon was drawn down amid
+the cheers of the crowd. She had been the first woman to make an
+ascension in British East Africa, if not in all of Africa.
+
+We then mounted our mules and rode out on the open plains. Several hours
+before, our entire camp had moved and we were to join them at a
+prearranged spot out on the Athi Plains. All our preliminary worries
+were over and at last we were actually started. At six o'clock, far
+across the country we saw the gleaming lights of our camp-fires and the
+green tents that were to be our homes for many weeks to come. Enormous
+herds of hartebeest and wildebeest were on each side, and countless
+zebras. That night two of us heard the first bark of the zebra, and we
+thought it must be the bark of distant dogs. It was one of our first
+surprises to learn that zebras bark instead of neigh.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+INTO THE HEART OF THE BIG GAME COUNTRY WITH A RETINUE OF MORE THAN ONE
+HUNDRED NATIVES. A SAFARI AND WHAT IT IS
+
+
+When I first expressed my intention of going to East Africa to shoot big
+game some of my friends remarked, in surprise: "Why, I didn't know that
+you were so bloodthirsty!" They seemed to think that the primary object
+of such an expedition was to slay animals, none of which had done
+anything to me, and that to wish to embark in any such project was an
+evidence of bloodthirstiness. I tried to explain that I had no
+particular grudge against any of the African fauna, and that the thing I
+chiefly desired to do was to get out in the open, far from the picture
+post-card, and enjoy experiences which could not help being wonderful
+and strange and perhaps exciting.
+
+The shooting of animals merely for the sake of killing them is, of
+course, not an elevating sport, but the by-products of big game hunting
+in Africa are among the most delightful and inspiring of all
+experiences. For weeks or months you live a nomadic tent life amid
+surroundings so different from what you are accustomed to that one is
+both mentally and physically rejuvenated. You are among strange and
+savage people, in strange and savage lands, and always threatened by
+strange and savage animals. The life is new and the scenery new. There
+is adventure and novelty in every day of such a life, and it is that
+phase of it that has the most insistent appeal. It is the call of the
+wild to which the pre-Adamite monkey in our nature responds.
+
+Even if one never used his rifle one would still enjoy life on _safari_.
+_Safari_ is an Arabic word meaning expedition as it is understood in
+that country. If you go on any sort of a trip you are on _safari_. It
+need not be a shooting trip.
+
+Of course everybody who has read the magazines of the last year has been
+more or less familiarized with African hunting. He has read of the
+amount of game that the authors have killed and of the narrow escapes
+that they have had.
+
+He also has read about expeditions into districts with strange names,
+but naturally these names have meant nothing to him. I know that I read
+reams of African stuff about big game shooting and about _safari_, yet
+in spite of all that, I remained in the dark as to many details of such
+a life. I wanted to know what kind of money or trade stuff the hunter
+carried; what sort of things he had to eat each day; what he wore, and
+how he got from place to place. Most writers have a way of saying: "We
+equipped our _safari_ in Nairobi and made seven marches to such and such
+a place, where we ran into some excellent eland." All the important
+small details are thus left out, and the reader remains in ignorance of
+what the tent boy does, who skins the game that is killed, and what sort
+of a cook stove they use.
+
+The purpose of this chapter is to tell something about the little things
+that happen on _safari_. First of all, at the risk of repeating what has
+been written so often before, I will say a few words about the personnel
+of a _safari_, such as the one I was with.
+
+There were four white people in our expedition--Mr. and Mrs. Akeley, Mr.
+Stephenson, and myself. Mr. Akeley's chief object was to get a group of
+five elephants for the American Museum of Natural History and
+incidentally secure photographic and moving picture records of animal
+life. Both he and Mrs. Akeley had been in Africa before and knew the
+country as thoroughly perhaps as any who has ever been there. Mr. Akeley
+undoubtedly is the foremost taxidermist of the world, and his work is
+famous wherever African animal life has been studied. Mr. Stephenson
+went for the experience in African shooting, and I for that experience
+and any other sort that might turn up.
+
+To supply an expedition of four white people, we had one head-man, whose
+duty it was to run the _safari_--that is, to get us where we wanted to
+go. The success and pleasure of the _safari_ depends almost wholly upon
+the head-man. If he is weak, the discipline of the camp will disappear
+and all sorts of annoyances will steadily increase. If he is strong,
+everything will run smoothly.
+
+[Drawing: _The Cook--A Toto--The Head-Man_]
+
+Our head-man was a young Somali, named Abdi. For several years he was
+with Mr. McMillan of Juja farm, and he spoke English well and knew the
+requirements of white men. He was strikingly handsome, efficient, and
+ruled the native porters firmly and kindly. Each day we patted ourselves
+on the back because of Abdi.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. It Is Tropical Along the Athi
+River]
+
+[Photograph: Hippos in the Tana River]
+
+[Photograph: Our Camp Down on the Tana]
+
+Second in the list came our four gunbearers, all Somalis, they being
+considered the best gunbearers. The duty of the gunbearer is always to
+be with you when you are hunting, to carry your gun, and to have it in
+your hand the instant it is needed. Then there were four second
+gunbearers, who came along just behind the first gunbearers. The second
+men were, in our case, selected from the native porters, and were
+subject to the orders of the first gunbearer. The first gunbearer
+carries your field-glasses and your light, long-range rifle; the second
+gunbearer carries your camera, your water bottle, and your heavy cordite
+double-barreled rifle. In close quarters, as in a lion fight, the first
+gunbearer crouches at your elbow, hands the big rifle to you; you fire,
+and he immediately takes the rifle and places in your hands the other
+rifle, ready for firing. By the time you have fired this one the first
+is again ready, and in this way you always have a loaded rifle ready for
+use. There frequently is no time for turning around, and so the first
+gunbearer is at your elbow with the barrel of one rifle pressed against
+your right leg that you may know that he is there. Sometimes they run
+away, but the Somali gunbearers are the most fearless and trustworthy,
+and seldom desert in time of need. The gunbearer has instructions never
+to fire unless his master is disarmed and down before the charge of a
+beast. When an animal is killed the gunbearers skin it and care for the
+trophy. Usually when on a shooting jaunt of several hours from camp
+several porters go along to carry home the game.
+
+Third in the social scale came the askaris--armed natives in uniforms
+who guard the camp at night. One or more patrol the camp all night long,
+keep up the fires and scare away any marauding lion or hyena that may
+approach the camp. We had four askaris, one of whom was the noisiest man
+I have ever heard. He reminded me of a congressman when congress is not
+in session.
+
+[Drawing: _Gunbearer--Askari--Tent Boy--Porter_]
+
+Then came the cook, who is always quite an important member of the
+community, because much of the pleasure of the _safari_ depends upon
+him. Our cook was one that the Akeleys had on their former trip. His
+name was Abdullah, he had a jovial face and a beaming smile, cooked
+well, and was funny to look at. He wore a slouch hat with a red band
+around it, a khaki suit and heavy shoes. When on the march he carried
+his shoes and when in camp he wore a blue jersey and a polka-dotted
+apron which took the place of trousers. He was good-natured, which
+atoned somewhat for his slowness. The suggestion may be made that he
+might not have been slow, but that our appetites might have been so fast
+that he seemed slow.
+
+The cook usually picks out a likely porter to help him, or a _toto_,
+which means "little boy" in Swahili. There are always a lot of boys who
+go along, unofficially, just for the fun and the food of the trip. They
+are not hired, but go as stowaways, and for the first few days out
+remain much in the background. Gradually they appear more and more until
+all chance of their being sent back has disappeared, and then they
+become established members of the party. They carry small loads and help
+brighten up the camp. Then there are the tent boys, personal servants of
+the white people. Each white person has his tent boy, who takes care of
+his tent, his bedding, his bath, his clothes, and all his personal
+effects. A good tent boy is a great feature on _safari_, for he relieves
+his master of all the little worries of life. The tent boys always wait
+on the table and do the family washing. They also see that the drinking
+water is boiled and filtered and that the water bottles are filled each
+evening.
+
+Last of all come the porters, of whom we had eighty. There were
+Swahilis, Wakambas, Kikuyus, Masai, Minyamwezis, Lumbwas, Bagandas,
+Kavirondos, and doubtless members of various other tribes. It was their
+duty to carry the camp from place to place, each porter carrying sixty
+pounds on his head. When they arrive at the spot selected for camp they
+put up the tents, get in firewood, and carry in what game may later be
+shot by the white men.
+
+Then, lowest in the social scale, are the saises, or grooms. There is
+one for each mule or horse, of which we had four. The sais is always at
+hand to hold the mount and is supposed to take care of it after hours.
+
+The foregoing members of our personally conducted party, therefore,
+included:
+
+   Head-man      1
+   Gunbearers    4
+   Askaris       4
+   Cook          1
+   Tent Boys     4
+   Porters      80
+   Saises        4
+   "Totos"      20
+
+The head-man and the four gunbearers get seventy-five rupees a month,
+the askaris fifteen rupees, the cook forty rupees, the tent boys twenty
+and twenty-five rupees, depending upon experience, the porters ten
+rupees, and the saises twelve rupees. The _totos_ get nothing except
+food and lodging, as well as experience, which may be valuable when they
+grow up to be porters at ten rupees a month. A rupee is about
+thirty-three cents American. We were also required by law to provide a
+water bottle, blanket, and sweater for each porter, as well as uniforms
+and water bottles, shoes and blankets for all the other members of the
+party. We also supplied twenty tents for them.
+
+For the first day or two on _safari_ there may be little hitches and
+delays, but after a short time the work is reduced to a beautiful
+system, and camp is broken or pitched in a remarkably short time. The
+porters get into the habit of carrying a certain load and so there is
+usually little confusion in distributing the packs.
+
+[Photograph: At the Edge of the Athi River]
+
+[Photograph: The Totos Are Not Fastidious]
+
+Life and activity begin early in camp. You go to bed early and before
+dawn you are awakened by the singing of countless birds of many kinds.
+The air is fresh and cool, and you draw your woolen blankets a little
+closer around you. The tent is closed, but through the little cracks you
+can see that all is still dark. In a few moments a faint grayness steals
+into the air, and off in the half darkness you hear the Somali
+gunbearers chanting their morning prayers--soft, musical, and soothing.
+Then there are more voices murmuring in the air and the camp slowly
+awakens to life. Some one is heard chopping wood, and by that time day
+breaks with a crash. All is life, and the birds are singing as though
+mad with the joy of life and sunshine. A little later a shadowy figure
+appears by your cot and says, "_Chai, bwana_" which means, "Tea,
+master."
+
+You turn over and slowly sip the hot tea, while outside in the clear
+morning air the sound of voices grows and grows until you know that
+eighty or a hundred men are busy getting their breakfasts. The crackling
+of many fires greets your ears and the pungent smell of wood fires
+salutes your nostrils. You look at your watch and it is perhaps five or
+half past. The air is still cold and you hasten to slip out of your cot.
+It is never considered wise to bathe in the morning here.
+
+Your shoes or boots are by your bed, all oiled and cleaned, and your
+puttees are neatly rolled, ready to be wound around you from the tops of
+the shoes to the knee. Your clean flannels (one always wears heavy
+flannel underclothes and heavy woolen socks in this climate) are laid
+out and your clothes for the day's march are ready for you. You get into
+your clothes and boots, go out of your tent, and find there a basin of
+hot water and your toilet equipment. The basin is supported on a
+three-pronged stick thrust into the ground and makes a thoroughly
+satisfactory washstand. The fire in front of the cook's tent is burning
+merrily and he and his assistants are busily at work on the morning
+breakfast. Twenty other camp-fires are burning around the twenty small
+white tents that the porters and others occupy, and scores of half-clad
+natives are cooking their breakfasts. The ration that we were required
+to give them was a pound and a half of ground-corn a day for each man,
+but in good hunting country we got them a good deal of meat to eat. They
+are very fond of hartebeest, zebra, rhino, and especially hippo. In
+fact, they are eager to eat any kind of meat, so that anything we killed
+was certain to be of practical use as food for the porters. This fact
+greatly relieves the conscience of the man who shoots an animal for its
+fine horns. Six porters sleep in each of the little shelter tents which
+we were required to supply them, and this number sleeping so closely
+packed served to keep them warm through the cold African highland
+nights.
+
+By six o'clock our folding table in the mess tent is laid with white
+linen and white enamel dishes for breakfast. So we take our places. If
+we are in a fruit country we have some oranges and bananas or papayas, a
+sort of pawpaw that is most delicious; it is a cross between a
+cantaloupe and a mango. Then we have oatmeal with evaporated cream and
+sugar; then we have choice cuts from some animal that was killed the day
+before--usually the liver or the tenderloin. Then we have eggs and
+finish up on jam or marmalade and honey. We have coffee for breakfast
+and tea for the other meals.
+
+While we are eating the tent boys have packed our tin trunks, our
+folding tent table, our cots and our pillows, cork mattresses and
+blankets. The gunbearer gets our two favorite rifles and cameras,
+field-glasses and water bottles. Then down comes the double-roofed green
+tents, all is wrapped into closely-packed bags, and before we are
+through with breakfast all the tented village has disappeared and only
+the mess tent and the two little outlying canvas shelters remain. It is
+a scene of great activity. Porters are busily making up their packs and
+the head-man with the askaris are busy directing them. In a half-hour
+all that remains is a scattered assortment of bundles, all neatly bound
+up in stout cords.
+
+One man may carry a tent-bag and poles, another a tin uniform case with
+a shot-gun strapped on top; another may have a bedding roll and a chair
+or table, and so on until the whole outfit is reduced to eighty compact
+bundles which include the food for the porters, the ant-proof food boxes
+with our own food, and the horns and skins of our trophies. The work of
+breaking camp is reduced to a science.
+
+Our gunbearers are waiting and the saises with the mules are in
+readiness. So we start off, usually walking the first hour or two, with
+gunbearers and saises and mules trailing along behind. Soon afterward we
+look back to see the long procession of porters following along in
+single file. Our tent boys carry our third rifle, and behind them all
+comes the head-man, ready to spur on any lagging porters.
+
+[Drawing: _Our Safari on the March_]
+
+The early morning hours are bright and cool, but along about nine
+o'clock the equatorial sun begins to beat down upon our heavy sun
+helmets and our red-lined and padded spine protectors. But it is seldom
+hot for long. A cloud passes across the sun and instantly everything is
+cooled. A wave of wind sweeps across the hill and cools the moist brow
+like a camphor compress. An instant later the sun is out again and the
+land lies swimming in the shimmer of heat waves. Distant hills swim on
+miragic lakes, and if we are in plains country the mirages appear upon
+all sides.
+
+We rarely shot while on a march from camp to camp. We walked or rode
+along, watching the swarms of game that slowly moved away as we
+approached. The scenery was beautiful. Sometimes we wound along on game
+trails or native trails through vast park-like stretches of rolling
+hills; at other times we climbed across low hills studded with thorn
+scrub, while off in the distance rose the blue hills and mountains. To
+the northward, always with us, was the great Mount Kenia, eighteen
+thousand feet high and nearly always veiled with masses of clouds. On
+her slopes are great droves of elephants, and we could pick out the spot
+where three years before Mrs. Akeley had killed her elephant with the
+record pair of tusks.
+
+Our marches were seldom long. At noon or even earlier we arrived at our
+new camping place, ten or twelve miles from our starting of the morning.
+Frequently we loitered along so that the porters might get there first
+and the camp be fully established when we arrived. At other times we
+arrived early and picked out a spot, where ticks and malaria were not
+likely to be bothersome.
+
+We usually camped near a river. Our first camp was on the Athi Plains,
+near Nairobi; our second at Nairobi Falls, where the river plunges down
+a sixty-foot drop in a spot of great beauty. Our third camp was on the
+Induruga River, in a beautiful but malarious spot; our fifth was on the
+Thika Thika River, where it was so cold in the morning that the vapor of
+our breathing was visible; and our sixth on a wind-blown hill where a
+whirlwind blew down our mess tent and scattered the cook's fire until
+the whole grass veldt was in furious flames. It took a hundred men an
+hour to put out the flames.
+
+Our next camp was at Fort Hall, where a poisonous snake came into my
+tent while I was working. It crawled under my chair and was by my feet
+when I saw it. It was chased out and killed in the grass near my tent,
+and a porter cut out the fangs to show me. For a day or two I looked
+before putting on my shoes, but after that I ceased to think of it.
+
+After that time our camps were along the Tana River, in a beautiful
+country thronged with game, but, unhappily, a district into which
+comparatively few hunters come on account of the fever that is said to
+prevail there. We were obliged to leave our mules at Fort Hall because
+it was considered certain death to them if we took them into this fly
+belt.
+
+When the porters arrive at a camping place a good spot is picked out for
+our four tents and mess tent, the cook tent is located, and in a short
+time the camp is ready. In my tent the cot is spread, with blankets
+airing; the mosquito net is up, the table is ready, with toilet
+articles, books and cigars laid out. The three tin uniform cases are in
+their places, my cameras are in their places, as are also the guns and
+lanterns. A floor cloth covers the ground and a long easy chair is ready
+for occupancy. Towels and water are ready, and pajamas and cholera belt
+are on the pillow of the cot. Everything is done that should be done,
+and I am immediately in a well established house with all my favorite
+articles in their accustomed places.
+
+[Drawing: _The Safari in Camp_]
+
+A luncheon, with fruit, meat, curry and a pastry is ready by the time we
+are, and then we smoke or sleep through the broiling midday hours. Mr.
+Stephenson--or "Fred," as he is with us--and I go out on a scouting
+expedition and look for good specimens to add to our collection of horns
+or to get food for the porters. Sometimes the whole party went out,
+either photographing charging rhinos or shooting, but this part of the
+daily program was usually too varied to generalize as part of the daily
+doings. Several porters went with each of us to bring in the game, which
+there is rarely any uncertainty of securing.
+
+In the evening we return and find our baths of hot water ready. We take
+off our heavy hunting boots and slip into the soft mosquito boots. After
+which dinner is ready and our menu is strangely varied. Sometimes we
+have kongoni steaks, at other times we have the heart of waterbuck or
+the liver of bushbuck or impalla. Twice we had rhino tongue and once
+rhino tail soup. We eat, and at six o'clock the darkness of night
+suddenly spreads over the land. We talk over our several adventures of
+the afternoon, some of which may be quite thrilling, and then, with camp
+chairs drawn around the great camp-fire, and with the sentinel askari
+pacing back and forth, we spend a drowsy hour in talking. Gradually the
+sounds of night come on. Off there a hyena is howling or a zebra is
+barking, and we know that through all those shadowy masses of trees the
+beasts of prey are creeping forth for their night's hunting. The
+porters' tents are ranged in a wide semicircle, and their camp-fires
+show little groups of men squatting about them. Somewhere one is playing
+a tin flute, another is playing a French harp, and some are singing. It
+is a picture never to be forgotten, and rich with a charm that will
+surely always send forth its call to the restless soul of the man who
+goes back to the city.
+
+Sometimes the evening program is different. When one of us brings in
+some exceptional trophy there is a great celebration, with singing and
+native dances, and cheers for the Bwana who did the heroic deed. The
+first lion in a camp is a signal for great rejoicing and
+celebrating--however, that is another story--the story of my first lion.
+
+At nine o'clock the tents are closed and all the camp is quiet in sleep.
+Outside in the darkness the askari paces to and fro, and the thick
+masses of foliage stand out in inky blackness against the brilliant
+tropic night. We are far from civilization, but one has as great a
+feeling of security as though he were surrounded by chimneys and
+electric lights. And no sleep is sweeter than that which has come after
+a day's marching over sun-swept hills or through the tangled reed beds
+where every sense must always be on the alert for hidden dangers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+A LION DRIVE. WITH A RHINO IN RANGE SOME ONE SHOUTS "SIMBA" AND I GET MY
+FIRST GLIMPSE OF A WILD LION. THREE SHOTS AND OUT
+
+
+Like every one who goes to Africa with a gun and a return ticket, I had
+two absorbing ambitions. One was to kill a lion and the other to live to
+tell about it. In my estimation all the other animals compared to a lion
+as latitude eighty-seven and a half compares to the north pole. I wanted
+to climb out of the Tartarin of Tarascon class of near lion hunters into
+the ranks of those who are entitled to remark, "Once, when I was in
+Africa shooting lions," etc. A dead lion is bogey in the big game
+sport--the score that every hunter dreams of achieving--and I was
+extremely eager to make the dream a reality.
+
+When speaking with English sportsmen in London my first question was,
+"Did you get any lions?" If they had, they at once rose in my
+estimation; if not, no matter how many elephants or rhinos or buffaloes
+they may have shot, they still remained in the amateur class.
+
+On the steamer going down to Mombasa the hunting talk was four-fifths
+lion and one-fifth about other game. The cripple who had been badly
+mauled by a lion was a person of much distinction, even more so than the
+ivory hunter who had killed three hundred elephants.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mr. Stephenson's Lion]
+
+[Photograph: A Post Mortem Inquiry]
+
+On the railway to Nairobi every eye was on the lookout for lions and
+every one gazed with intense interest at the station of Tsavo and
+remembered the famous pair of man-eaters that had terrorized that place
+some years before.
+
+In Nairobi the men who had killed lions, and those who had been mauled
+by them (and there are many of the latter), were objects of vast
+concern, and the little cemetery with its many headstones marked "Killed
+by lion" added still greater fire to my interest.
+
+[Drawing: _The Jolly Little Cemetery_]
+
+Consequently, when we marched out of Nairobi on the evening of September
+twenty-third, with tents and guns and a hundred and twenty men, the
+dominating thought was of lions. If ever any one had greater hope and
+less expectation of killing a lion I was the one.
+
+We had planned a short trip of from three to five weeks northeast of
+Nairobi in what is called the Tana River country. While there are some
+lions in that section, as there are in most parts of British East
+Africa, it is not considered a good lion country. Buffaloes, rhinos,
+hippos, giraffes, and many varieties of smaller game are abundant,
+largely because the Tana River is in a bad fever belt and hunting
+parties generally prefer to go elsewhere. This preliminary trip was
+intended to perfect our shooting, so that later, when in real lion
+country, we might be better equipped to take on the king of beasts with
+some promise of hitting him.
+
+[Drawing: _Peering for Lions_]
+
+The tree-tops and corrugated iron roofs of Nairobi had hardly dropped
+behind a long, sun-soaked hump of the Athi Plains when I began to peel
+my eyes inquiringly for lions. All the lion stories that I had heard for
+the preceding few months paraded back and forth in my memory, and if
+ever a horizon was thoroughly scanned for lion, that horizon just out of
+Nairobi was the one. Hartebeests in droves loped awkwardly away from the
+trail and then turned and looked with wondering interest at us. Zebras,
+too fat to run, trotted off, and also turned to observe the invaders.
+Gazelles did the same, and away off in the distance a few wildebeests
+went galloping slowly to a safe distance. They were probably safe at any
+distance had they only known it, for up to the hour when I cantered
+forth from Nairobi in quest of lions and rhinos I had not shot at
+anything for three years, nor hit anything for ten.
+
+Night came on--the black, sudden night of Africa--and we went into camp
+four miles from Nairobi without ever having heard the welcome roar of a
+lion. It was a distinct disappointment. I remembered the story about the
+lions that stampeded the zebras through the peaceful gardens of Nairobi
+only a few nights before--also the report that some man-eaters had been
+recently partaking of nourishment along the very road upon which we were
+now camping. I also remembered hearing that lions had been seen prowling
+around the edge of the town and that the Athi Plains are a time-honored
+habitat of the lion family. On the other hand, I thought of Mr.
+Roosevelt, who had recently been reducing the supply. I also remembered
+how many hunters had spent years in Africa without ever seeing a lion,
+and how Doctor Rainsford had made two different hunting trips to Africa,
+always looking for lions, but without success.
+
+During our first three days of marching, we looked industriously for
+lions. On broad, grassy plain, in low scrub, on the slopes of low
+hills--everywhere we looked for them. If a flock of vultures circled
+above a distant spot we went over at once in the hope of surprising a
+lion at his kill. Every reed bed was promptly investigated, every dry
+nullah was explored. McMillan's farm, which is a farm only in name, was
+scoured without ever a sign or a hint that a lion lurked thereabouts.
+Mr. McMillan has four lions in a cage, but they snarled so savagely that
+we hastened away to look for lions elsewhere. The second day we crossed
+the Nairobi River, the third day we crossed the Induruga River, and the
+fourth day we camped down on the Athi River. Here we struck a clue. Two
+English settlers came over and told us that lions had been heard the
+night before near their ranch house, on the slopes of Donyo Sabuk, a
+high solitary round top mountain rising from the Athi Plains, and we
+determined to organize our first lion hunt. It was here that Mr. Lucas
+was killed by a lion a short time before.
+
+A lion hunt, or a lion drive, is quite a ceremony. You take thirty or
+forty natives, go to the place where the lion was heard, and then beat
+every bit of cover in the hope of scaring out the beasts. Lions are fond
+of lying up during the day in dry reed beds, and when you go out looking
+for them, you are most likely to find them in such places.
+
+[Photograph: Mr. Stephenson's Splendid Buffalo]
+
+[Photograph: "Lion Camp"]
+
+[Photograph: The Lion and Lioness in Camp]
+
+We started, three of us, with forty porters, at about daybreak. At seven
+o'clock we had climbed up the side of the mountain to the spot where the
+lions were supposed to be lurking--a long, reed-filled cleft in the side
+of the slope. The porters were sent up to one end of the reed bed,
+twenty on each side, while we went below to where the lion would
+probably be driven out by their shouting and noise. The porters
+bombarded the reeds with stones while we waited with rifles ready for
+the angry creature to dash out in our vicinity. It was an interesting
+wait, with plenty of food for thought. I wondered why the Englishmen had
+not come out to get the lions themselves, and then remembered that one
+of them had been mauled by a lion and had henceforth remained neutral in
+all lion fights. I wondered many other things which I have now
+forgotten. I was quite busy wondering for some time as I waited. In the
+meantime the lions failed to appear.
+
+Bushbuck, waterbuck, and lots of other herbivora appeared, but no
+carnivora. We raked the reed bed fore and aft, and combed the long grass
+in every direction. A young rhino was startled in his morning nap, ran
+around excitedly for a while, and then trotted off. Birds of many
+varieties fluttered up and wondered what the racket was about. At ten
+o'clock we decided that the lions had failed to do their part of the
+program, and that no further developments were to be expected. So we
+marched back homeward, got mixed up with another rhino, and finally
+gained camp, seven miles away, just as our hunger had reached an
+advanced stage.
+
+The next day we marched to the Thika Thika River, then to Punda Milia,
+and then to Fort Hall. Some one claimed to have heard a lion out from
+Fort Hall early in the morning, but I more than half suspect it was one
+of our porters who reverberates when he sleeps. From Fort Hall we
+crossed the Tana and made three marches down the river. Rhinos were
+everywhere jumping out from behind bushes when least expected and in
+many ways behaving in a most diverting way. For a time we forgot lions
+while dodging rhinos. There were dozens of them in the thick, low scrub,
+with now and then a bunch of eland, or a herd of waterbuck, or a few
+hundred of the ubiquitous kongoni.
+
+We camped in a beautiful spot down on the Tana. The country looked like
+a park, with graceful trees scattered about on the rolling lawn-like
+hills. On all sides was game in great profusion. Hippos played about in
+the river, baboons scampered about on the edge of the water, monkeys
+chattered in the trees, and it seemed as though nearly all of the eight
+hundred varieties of East African birds gave us a morning serenade. A
+five-minutes' walk from camp would show you a rhino, while from the top
+of any knoll one could look across a vast sweep of hills upon which
+almost countless numbers of zebras, kongoni, and other animals might be
+seen.
+
+But never a lion. It certainly looked discouraging.
+
+As a form of pleasant excitement, we began to photograph rhinos, Mr.
+Akeley took out his moving-picture machine, advanced it cautiously to
+within a few yards of the unsuspecting rhino, and then we tried to
+provoke a charge. We took a dozen or more rhinos in this way, often
+approaching to within a few yards, and if there is any more exciting
+diversion I don't know what it is. I've looped the loop and there is no
+comparison. It is more like being ambushed by Filipino insurgents--that
+is, it's the same kind of excitement, with more danger.
+
+One day it was necessary to shoot a big bull rhino. He staggered and
+fell, but at once got up and trotted over a hill. Having wounded him, it
+was then necessary for me to follow him, which I did for three blazing
+hours. From nine o'clock till twelve I followed, with the sun beating
+down on the dry, grass-covered hills as though it meant to burn up
+everything beneath it. If any one had asked me, "Is it hot enough for
+you?" I should have answered "Yes" without a moment's hesitation. The
+horizon shimmered in waves of heat. From the top of one hill I could see
+my rhino half a mile away on the slope of another. When I reached the
+slope he was a mile farther on. I began to think he was a mirage. For a
+wounded animal, with two five-hundred-grain shells in his shoulder, he
+was the most astonishing example of vitality I have ever seen. He would
+have been safe against a Gatling gun. There were more low trees a mile
+farther on, and I plodded doggedly on in the hope of getting a little
+relief from the sun. As I drew near I noticed a rhino standing under the
+trees, but he was not the wounded one. I decided that the shade was
+insufficient for both of us and moved swiftly on. Across the valley on
+the slope of another blistered hill stood the one I was looking for. He
+didn't seem to be in the chastened mood of one who is about to die. He
+seemed vexed about something, probably the two cordite shells he was
+carrying. I at last came up within a hundred yards of him. He had got my
+wind and was facing me with tail nervously erect. The tail of a rhino is
+an infallible barometer of his state of mind. With his short sight, I
+knew that he could not see me at that distance, but I knew that he had
+detected the direction in which the danger lay. By slowly moving ahead,
+the distance was cut to about seventy yards, which was not too far away
+in an open country with a wounded rhino in the foreground. I resolved to
+shoot before he charged or before he ran away, and so I prepared to end
+the long chase with an unerring shot.
+
+Suddenly a sound struck my ear that acted upon me like an electric
+shock:
+
+"_Simba!_"
+
+It was the one word that I had been hoping to hear ever since leaving
+Nairobi, for the word means "lion." My Somali gunbearer was eagerly
+pointing toward a lone tree that stood a hundred yards off to the left.
+A huge, hulking animal was slowly moving away from it. It was my first
+glimpse of a wild lion. He was half concealed in the tall, dry grass and
+in a few seconds had entirely disappeared from view. We rushed after
+him. The rhino was completely forgotten and was left to charge or run
+away as he saw fit. When we reached the spot where the lion was last
+seen there was no trace of him. He apparently was not "as brave as a
+lion." We followed the course that he presumably took and presently
+reached the crest of a ridge. Then the second gunbearer, a keen-eyed
+Kikuyu, discovered the lion three hundred yards off to the right. After
+reaching the top of the hill the animal had swung directly off at right
+angles with the idea of reaching cover in a dry creek bed some distance
+away. I started to shoot at three hundred yards, but before I could take
+a careful aim the lion had disappeared in the grass. For an hour we
+thrashed the high reeds in the dry creek bed with never a sign of the
+king of beasts. He had apparently abdicated. He had vanished so
+completely that I thought he had escaped toward some low hills a mile
+farther on. The disappointment of seeing a lion and not getting it, or
+at least shooting at it, was keen to a degree that actually hurt.
+
+[Drawing: _Game Was Plenty for a Minute or Two_]
+
+There was nothing left but to resume our chase after the wounded rhino.
+It was like going back to work after a pleasant two weeks' vacation. We
+presently found him on a far distant hill, and after an hour's tramp in
+the sun we came up to him in the middle of the rolling prairie. There
+was not a tree for a mile, nor a single avenue of escape in case he
+charged. Horticulture had never interested me especially, but just at
+this moment I think a tree, even a thorn tree, would have been a
+pleasant subject for intimate study. However, to make a long story
+longer, I shot him at a hundred yards and felt certain that both shells
+struck. Yet he wheeled around and, stumbling occasionally, was off like
+a railway train. Again we followed, two miles of desperate tramping in
+that merciless sun, up hills and down hills, until finally we entirely
+lost all trace of him. It was now two o'clock. I had eaten nothing since
+five o'clock in the morning, my water bottle was so nearly empty that I
+dared take only a swallow at a time, my knees were sore from climbing
+hills and wading through the tall, dry prairie grass, and I decided to
+give up this endless pursuit of a rhino who wouldn't die after being hit
+with four cordite shells.
+
+The dry creek bed lay in the course of our homeward march, and we
+resolved to take a final look at it. There seemed no likelihood that the
+lion was there, and I walked into the place with the supreme courage of
+one who doesn't expect to find anything hostile. My head gunbearer and I
+had crossed and were walking down in the grass at one side. My second
+gunbearer was on the opposite side, and the stillness of death hung over
+the burning plain.
+
+There was not a sign of life in any direction. The second gunbearer was
+instructed to set fire to the grass in the hope of awakening some
+protest from the lion in case he was still in the vicinity. There was a
+dry crackling of flames, and before we could count ten a deep growl came
+from somewhere in front of me, evidently on one of the edges of the
+creek bed. The second gunbearer was the first to locate him, and he
+signaled for me to come over on his side of the creek. In a moment I had
+dashed down and had climbed out on the other side and was eagerly gazing
+at a clump of bushes indicated by the Kikuyu. At first I could
+distinguish nothing, but soon I saw the tawny flanks and the lashing
+tail of the lion. His head was hidden by the bushes. At that time we
+were about a hundred yards from him and it was necessary to circle off
+to a point where the rest of his body could be seen. A little side
+ravine intervened, and I had to cross it and come directly down through
+the clump of bushes. The grass was high, and it was not until I had come
+within forty yards of the lion that I could get a clear view of him. He
+was glaring at me, with tail waving angrily, and his mouth was opened in
+a savage snarl. I could see that he didn't like me.
+
+I raised the little .256 Mannlicher, aimed carefully at his open mouth
+and fired. The lion turned a back somersault and a great thrill of
+exultation suffused me. Already I saw the handsomely mounted lion-skin
+rug ornamenting my den at home. We approached cautiously, always
+remembering that the real danger of lion hunting comes after the lion
+has been shot. We threw stones in the grass where he had lain, but no
+answering growl was heard. I thought he was dead, but when we finally
+reached the spot where he had been there was no sign of him. He had
+vanished again. I searched the ravine and then crossed to the high grass
+on the other side. Then we saw him for an instant, half-concealed, just
+in front of us. His head was hanging, and he looked as though he had
+been hard hit. Again he disappeared and we searched high and low for
+him. For several hundred feet we beat the grass without result.
+
+Then the grass was again fired and again the hoarse growl came in angry
+protest. Walking slowly, with guns ready for instant use, we advanced
+until we could see him under a tree seventy yards ahead on my side of
+the ravine. He was growling angrily. This time I used the
+double-barreled cordite rifle and the first shot struck him in the
+forehead without knocking him down. He sprang up and the second shot
+stretched him out. He was still alive when I came up to him, and a small
+bullet was fired into the base of his brain to reduce the danger of a
+final charge.
+
+Old hunters always caution one about approaching a dying lion, for often
+the beast musters up unexpected vitality, makes a final charge, kills
+somebody, and then dies happy. So we waited a few feet away until the
+last quiver of his sides had passed. One of the boys pulled his tail and
+shook him, but there was no sign of life. He was extinct.
+
+A new danger now threatened. The grass fire that the second gunbearer
+had started was sweeping the prairie, fanned by a strong wind, and there
+seemed to be not only the danger of abandoning the lion, but of being
+forced to flee before the flames. So we fell to work beating out the
+nearest fires, and trusted that a shifting of the wind would send the
+course of the flames in another direction.
+
+It was now four o'clock. We were nine miles from camp and food, and we
+knew that at six o'clock darkness would suddenly descend, leaving us out
+in a rhino-infested country, far from camp. The water was nearly gone
+and the general outlook was far from pleasing.
+
+The gunbearers skinned the lion. My first shot had struck one of his
+back teeth, breaking it squarely off, and then passed through the fleshy
+part of the neck. It was a wound that would startle, but not kill. The
+second shot had hit him between the eyes, but had glanced off the skull,
+merely ripping open the skin on the forehead for five inches. The third
+shell had killed him, except for the convulsive heaving that was finally
+stilled by the small bullet in the base of the brain.
+
+[Drawing: _As I Planned to Look in the Photograph of "My First
+Lion"_]
+
+The skinning was interesting. All the fat in certain parts of the body
+was saved, for East Indians bid high for it and use it as a lubricant
+for rheumatic pains. The two shoulder blades are always saved and are
+considered a valuable trophy. They are little bones three inches long,
+unattached and floating, and have long since ceased to perform any
+function in the working of the body. The broken tooth was found and
+saved, and, of course, a photograph was taken. My gunbearer took the
+picture, and when it was developed there was only a part of the lion and
+part of the lion slayer visible. It was a good picture of the tree,
+however.
+
+[Drawing: _As I Looked--From Photograph by Gunbearer_]
+
+At four-thirty the homeward march was begun. At five-thirty two rhinos
+blocked the path and one of them had to be shot. At six we were still
+several miles from camp, with the country wrapped in darkness. The water
+was gone and only one shell remained for the big gun. Somewhere ahead
+were miles of thorn scrub in which there might be rhinos or buffaloes.
+Two days before I had killed two large buffaloes in the district through
+which we must pass, and there was every likelihood of others still being
+there. At seven we were hopelessly lost in a wide stretch of hippo
+grass, and I had to fire a shot in the hope of getting an answering shot
+from camp. In a couple of moments we heard the distant shot, and then
+pressed on toward camp. The lion had been carried on ahead while we
+stopped with the rhino, and so the news reached the camp before us. A
+long line of porters came out to greet us and a great reception
+committee was waiting at the camp. It was the first lion of the
+expedition, and as such was the signal for great celebration. That night
+there were native dances and songs around the big central camp-fire and
+a wonderful display of pagan hilarity.
+
+It had been a hard day. Fourteen hours without food, several hours
+without water, and miles of hard tramping through thorn scrub in the
+darkness and of long, broiling stretches in the blazing sunlight. It
+seemed a good price to pay even for a lion, but that night, as I finally
+stretched out on my cot, I was conscious from time to time of a glow of
+pleasure that swept over me. It seemed that of all human gratifications
+there was none equal to that experienced by the man who has killed his
+first lion.
+
+My second lion experience came three days later. With a couple of tents
+and about forty porters our party of four had marched across to a point
+a couple of miles from where I had killed the lion. We hoped to put in a
+day or two looking for lions, some of which had been reported in that
+district. The porters went on ahead with the camp equipment, while we
+came along more slowly. Mr. Akeley had taken some close-range
+photographs of rhinos, and we were just on the point of starting direct
+for the new camp when we ran across two enormous rhinos standing in the
+open plain. One was extremely large, with an excellent pair of horns,
+and it was arranged that I should try to secure this one as a trophy,
+while Mr. Akeley secured a photograph of the event. At thirty-five yards
+I shot the larger one of the two, and it dropped in its tracks. The
+other started to charge, but was finally driven away by shouting and by
+shots fired in the air. The photograph was excellent and quite dramatic.
+
+For an hour the gunbearers worked on the dead rhino and finally secured
+the head and feet and certain desirable parts of the skin. At noon we
+resumed our march for camp, two or three miles away. We had hardly gone
+half the distance when one of the tent boys was seen far ahead, riding
+the one mule that we had dared to bring down the Tana River. It was
+evident that something important had occurred and we hurried on to meet
+him.
+
+"_Simba!_" he shouted, as soon as he could be heard. In a moment we had
+the details. One of the saises had seen two lions, a large male and
+female, quite near the camp. Porters were instructed to watch the beasts
+until we should arrive, and now were supposed to be in touch with them.
+We omitted luncheon and struck off at once in the direction indicated by
+the tent boy. We soon came up to the porters and an instant later saw
+the lions. It was a beautiful sight. The two animals were majestically
+walking up the rocky slope of a low, fire-scorched hill a few hundred
+yards away. The male was a splendid beast, with all the splendid dignity
+of one who fears nothing in the whole wide world. From time to time the
+two lions stopped and looked back at us, but with no sign of fear.
+Several times they lay down, but soon would resume their stately course
+up among the rocks.
+
+I shall never forget the picture that lay before me. It was as though
+some famous lion painting of Gerome or Landseer had come to life,
+sometimes the animals being outlined clearly against the blue sky and at
+other times standing, with splendid heads erect, upon the rocks of the
+low ridge that rose ahead of us.
+
+We stalked them easily. Several porters were left where the lions could
+constantly see them, while we three, Akeley, Stephenson and I, with our
+six gunbearers, worked around the base of the hill until we were able to
+climb up on the crest of it, being thus constantly screened from view of
+the lions. At the crest was an abrupt outcropping of blackened rocks,
+where we stopped to locate the two animals. They were nowhere to be
+seen. Twenty-five yards farther along on the crest was another little
+ledge of rocks, and we worked our way silently along to it in the
+expectation that the lions might have advanced that far. But even then
+our search disclosed nothing. For some time we waited, scouring the
+neighborhood with our glasses, and had almost reached the conclusion
+that the lions had made off down the other side of the hill and had
+reached the cover of a shallow ravine some distance away. Then we saw
+them--exactly where we had last seen them before we had started our
+stalk. They were still together and showed no sign of alarm nor
+knowledge of our presence so near them. At this time they were one
+hundred and ten yards away. They lay down again behind the rocks and we
+waited twenty minutes for them to show themselves. Off to our right and
+in the valley another large male lion appeared and moved slowly away
+among the low scrub trees.
+
+Finally we decided to rouse the two lions by shouting, but before this
+decision could be carried out the male rose above the rocks and stood
+plainly in view. It had previously been arranged that Mr. Stephenson
+should try for the male, while I should try for the female. In an
+instant he fired with his big rifle, the lion whirled around and then
+started running down the hill to the right.
+
+Then the lioness appeared and I wounded her with my first shot. She ran
+out in the open toward us, but evidently without knowing from where the
+firing came. A second shot was better placed and I saw her collapse in
+her tracks. Leaving the lioness, I went down to where Stephenson had
+followed the lion. Several shots had been fired, but the lion was still
+running, although badly wounded. Just as it reached a small tree down on
+the slope a shot was put into a vital spot, and the lion went wildly
+over on his side. Even then he managed to drag himself under the small
+bushes surrounding the tree, where a moment later Mr. Stephenson killed
+him with a shot from his .318 Mauser.
+
+[Drawing: _"A Very Interesting Experience," Said I Coolly, a Couple
+of Days Later_]
+
+We measured and photographed the lion, and then I took my camera to get
+a picture of the dead lioness up on the ridge. She was sitting up
+snarling, and I was the most surprised person in the world. I shot at
+her and she ran fifty yards to a small tree, where she came to a stop.
+Two more shots from my big gun finished her, and the photograph was
+finally secured.
+
+Leaving the porters to watch the two lions, we followed the third lion
+that had been seen in the valley. He had not gone far and we soon found
+him, but too far away to get a shot. For an hour we followed him, but he
+finally disappeared and could not be located again.
+
+It was sundown when our porters reached camp with the two lions, and it
+was then that we ate our long-deferred luncheon.
+
+A week later, while marching from the Tana River to the Zeka River, Mr.
+and Mrs. Akeley and I came across a large lion, accompanied by a
+lioness. They were first seen moving away across a low sloping ridge of
+the plains within a couple of miles of where we had killed the lion and
+lioness a week before. We followed them and came up with them after a
+brisk walk of ten minutes. Both were hiding in the grass near the crest
+of the slope, and we could see their ears and eyes above the long grass.
+We crouched down a hundred yards away and the lion rose to see where we
+had gone. Mrs. Akeley fired and missed, but her second shot pierced his
+brain and he fell like a log. We expected a charge from the lioness and
+waited until she should declare herself. But she did not appear and her
+whereabouts remained an anxious mystery until she was finally seen
+several hundred yards away making her way slowly up a distant hill.
+Half-way up she sat down and watched us as we made our way cautiously in
+the grass to where her mate lay as he fell, stone dead. We afterward
+followed her, but she escaped from view and could not be located. This
+lion was the largest we had seen and measured nine feet from tip to tip.
+
+This was our last experience with lions in the Trans-Tana country. After
+that we went up in the elephant country on Mount Kenia, but that is a
+story all in itself.
+
+Lion hunting is the best kind of African hunting in one respect. One
+feels no self-reproach in having killed a lion, for there is always the
+comforting thought that by killing one lion you have saved the lives of
+three hundred other animals. Every lion exacts an annual toll of at
+least that number of zebras, hartebeests, or other forms of antelopes,
+all of which are powerless to defend themselves against the great
+creature that creeps upon them in cover of darkness. So a lion hunter
+may consider himself something of a benefactor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ON THE TANA RIVER, THE HOME OF THE RHINO. THE TIMID ARE FRIGHTENED, THE
+DANGEROUS KILLED, AND OTHERS PHOTOGRAPHED. MOVING PICTURES OF A RHINO
+CHARGE
+
+
+Down on the Tana River the rhinos are more common than in any
+other known section of Africa. In two weeks we saw over one
+hundred--perhaps two hundred--of them--so many, in fact, that one of the
+chief diversions of the day was to count rhinos. One day we counted
+twenty-six, another day nineteen, and by the time we left the district
+rhinos had become such fixtures in the landscape as to cause only casual
+comment. Perhaps there were some repeaters, ones that were counted
+twice, but even allowing for that there were still some left. We saw big
+ones and little ones, old ones and young ones, and middle-aged ones;
+ones with long ears, short horns, double horns, and single horns; black
+ones and red ones--in fact, all the kinds of rhinos that are resident in
+British East Africa. One had an ear gone and another had a crook in his
+tail. If we had stayed another week we might have got out a Tana River
+Rhino Directory, with addresses and tree numbers. We studied them fore
+and aft, from in front of trees and from behind them, from close range
+and long range, over our shoulders, and through our cameras, every way
+whereby a conscientious lover of life and nature can study a prominent
+member of the Mammalia. We called the place Rhino Park because the
+country looks like a beautiful park studded with splendid trees and
+dotted with rhinos.
+
+[Drawing: _A Morning Walk on the Tana River_]
+
+When I went to Africa I was equipped with the following fund of
+knowledge concerning the rhinoceros: First, that he is familiarly called
+"rhino" by the daring hunters who have written about him; second, that
+he is a member of the Perissodactyl family, whose sole representatives
+are the horse, the rhino, and the tapir; third, that he savagely charges
+human beings who write books about their thrilling adventures in Africa,
+and, finally, that he looks like a hang-over from the pterodactyl age.
+The books and magazine stories that have come out since Mr. Roosevelt
+made African hunting the vogue invariably describe the rhino as being
+one of the most dangerous of African animals. A charging rhino, a
+wounded lion, a cape buffalo, and a frenzied elephant are the four
+terrors of the African hunters. All other forms of danger are slight
+compared with these, and I was full to the guards with a vast and
+fearful respect for the rhino. I fancied myself spinning around like a
+pinwheel with the horn of a rhino as a pivot, and the thought had little
+to commend itself to a lover of longevity--such as myself, for instance.
+
+[Photograph: A Comfortable Hammock of Zebra Skin]
+
+[Photograph: Mrs. Akeley and Her Tana River Monkey]
+
+After going to Africa and meeting some of the best members of the rhino
+set I was able to form some conclusions of my own, chief of which is the
+belief that he is dangerous only if he hits you. As long as you can keep
+out of his reach you are in no great danger except from the thorns.
+
+The prevailing estimate of the rhino is that he is an inoffensive
+creature who likes to bask under the shade of a tree and watch the years
+go parading by. His thick skin and fierce armament of horns seem to make
+of him a relic of some long-forgotten age--the last survivor of the time
+when mammoths and dinosauruses roamed the manless waste and time was
+counted in geological terms instead of days and minutes. His eyes are
+dimmed and he sees nothing beyond a few yards away, but his hearing and
+sense of smell are keen, and he sniffs danger from afar in case danger
+happens to be to windward of him. His sensitive nose is always alert for
+foreign and, therefore, suspicious odors, and when he smells the blood
+of an Englishman, or even an American, his tail goes up in anger, he
+sniffs and snorts and races around in a circle while he locates the
+direction where the danger lies--and then, look out. A blind, furious
+rush which only a well-sped bullet can prevent causing the untimely end
+of whatever happens to be in the way. That is the popular estimate of
+the rhino.
+
+[Drawing: _Popular Conception of Rhino_]
+
+Here are some of the conclusions I have formed: If the hunter carefully
+approaches the rhino from the leeward he may often come within a few
+yards of the animal and might easily shoot him in a leisurely way. The
+rhino can see only at close range and can smell only when the wind blows
+the scent to him. Consequently he would be defenseless and at the mercy
+of the hunter if it were not for one thing. Nature, in her wisdom, has
+sent the little rhino bird to act as a sentinel for the great pachyderm.
+These little birds live on the back of the rhino and, as recompense for
+their vigilance, are permitted to partake of such ticks and insects as
+inhabit the hide of their host. Whenever danger, or, in other words,
+whenever a hunter tries to approach their own particular rhino from any
+direction, windward, leeward, or any other way, the ever alert and
+watchful rhino birds sound a tocsin of warning. The rhino pricks up his
+ears and begins to show signs of taking notice. He doesn't know where or
+what the danger may be, but he knows the C.Q.D. code of danger signals
+as delivered to him from the outposts on his back and hastens to get
+busy in an effort to locate the foe. As a general thing the little
+birds, on sight of danger, begin a wild chatter, rising from the back of
+the rhino and flying in an opposite direction from the danger. Then they
+return, light on the rhino's back, and repeat, often several times, the
+operation of flying away from the danger. If the rhino is a wise rhino
+he learns from the birds which is the safe way to go and soon trots
+swiftly off. In a measure the habits of the rhino bird are as
+interesting as those of the rhino itself, and as an example of the weak
+protecting the strong, the Damon and Pythias relationship between bird
+and beast is without parallel in the animal kingdom.
+
+[Drawing: _Before and After the Rhino Birds Give the Alarm_]
+
+The rhino is a peaceful animal. He browses on herbs and shrubs and
+dwells in friendly relationship with the rest of the animal kingdom.
+Perhaps once or twice a day he ambles down to some favorite drinking
+place for a drink, but the rest of the time he grazes along a hillside
+or stands or lies sleepily under a tree. At such times as the latter he
+may be approached quite near without much danger. Each day he also goes
+to a favorite wallowing place, where he rolls in the red dirt and
+emerges from this dirt bath a dull red rhino. In the rhino country
+dozens of these red dirt rolling places may be found, each one trampled
+smooth for an area of fifteen or twenty feet in evidence of the great
+number of times it has been used by one or more rhinos. This dirt bath
+is a defensive measure against the hordes of ticks that infest the
+rhino. It is a subject for wonder that the six or eight tick birds do
+not keep the rhino free of ticks, and it has even been argued by some
+naturalists that the rhino bird does not eat ticks, but merely uses the
+rhino as a convenient resting-place. Also perhaps they enjoy the ride.
+We had planned to get a rhino bird and perform an autopsy on him in
+order to analyze his contents, but did not do so.
+
+[Photograph: The Ford of Tana River]
+
+[Photograph: The Baby Rhino]
+
+After the rhino has taken his dirt wallow, and looks fine in his new red
+coat, he then slowly and painstakingly proceeds to kill time during the
+rest of the day. If danger threatens he becomes exceedingly nervous and
+excited. His anxiety is quite acute. In vain he tries to locate the
+danger, rushing one way for a few yards, then the other way, and finally
+all ways at once. His tail is up and he is snorting like a steam engine.
+When he rushes toward you in this attitude it looks very much as though
+he were charging you with the purpose of trampling you to flinders. As a
+matter of fact, or, rather, opinion, he is merely trying to locate where
+you are in order that he may run the other way. He looks terrifying, but
+in reality is probably badly terrified himself. He would give a good
+deal to know which way to run, and finally becomes so excited and
+nervous that he starts frantically in some direction, hoping for the
+best. If this rush happens to be in your direction you call it a charge
+from an infuriated rhino; if not, you say that he looked nasty and was
+about to charge, but finally ran away in another direction. In most
+rhino charges it is my opinion that the rhino is too rattled to know
+what he is doing, and, instead of charging maliciously, he is merely
+trying to get away as fast as possible. And in such cases the hunter
+blazes away at him, wounds him, and the rhino blindly charges the flash.
+
+[Drawing: _Trying to Provoke a Charge_]
+
+It was our wish to get moving pictures of a rhino charge. Mr. Akeley had
+a machine and our plan of action was simple. We would first locate the
+rhino, usually somnolent under a thorn tree or browsing soberly out in
+the open. We would then get to the leeward of him and slowly advance the
+machine; Mr. Akeley in the middle and Stephenson and I on each side with
+our double-barreled cordite rifles. In case the charge became too
+serious to escape we hoped to be able to turn him or kill the rhino with
+our four bullets. If we were unsuccessful in doing so--well, we had to
+manage the situation by jumping.
+
+Our first experience was most thrilling, chiefly because we expected a
+charge. We thought all rhinos charged, as per the magazine articles, and
+so prepared for busy doings. A rhino cow and half-grown calf were
+discovered on a distant hillside. We stopped in a ravine to adjust the
+picture machine and then crept cautiously up the hill until we were
+within about seventy yards of the unsuspecting pair. Then the rhino
+birds began to flutter and chatter and the two beasts began to sniff
+nervously. Finally they turned toward us, with tails erect and noses
+sniffing savagely. Now for the charge, we thought, for it was considered
+an absolute certainty that a rhino cow accompanied by its calf would
+always attack. We moved forward a few yards, clapped our hands to show
+where we were, and their attitude at once became more threatening. They
+rushed backward and forward a couple of times and faced us again.
+
+By this time we knew that they saw us and our fingers were within the
+trigger guards. It was agreed that, if they charged, they should be
+allowed to come within forty feet before we fired, thus giving the
+picture machine time to get a good record. The situation was intense
+beyond description, and seconds seemed hours. When they started trotting
+toward us we thought the fatal moment had come, but instead of
+continuing the "charge," they swung around and trotted swiftly off in an
+opposite direction. As far as we could see them they trotted swiftly and
+with the lightness of deer, sometimes zigzagging their course, but
+always away from us. The charge had failed in spite of all our efforts
+to provoke it. The whistling and hand-clapping which we had hoped would
+give them our location without doubt had merely served to tell them the
+way not to go.
+
+The moving picture record of a "charging rhino" would have been a
+brilliant success but for one thing--the rhino refused to charge.
+
+During the following ten days we made many similar attempts to get a
+charge and always with nearly the same results. Once or twice we got
+within thirty yards before they finally turned tail after a number of
+feints that looked much like the beginning of a nasty charge. It was
+always intensely thrilling work because there was the likelihood that we
+might get a charge in spite of the fact that a dozen or so previous
+experiences had failed to precipitate one.
+
+In several cases the first rush of the rhino was toward us, but instead
+of continuing, he would soon swing about and make off, four times as
+badly scared as we were. It seemed as though these preliminary rushes
+toward us were efforts to verify the location of danger in order to
+determine the right direction for escape. In all, we made between
+fifteen and twenty different attempts on different rhinos to get a
+charge, but with always practically the same result, yet with always the
+same thrill of excitement and uncertainty.
+
+[Drawing: _The End of the Charge_]
+
+Comprehensive statistics on a rhino's charges are hard to obtain. The
+district commissioner at Embo told me that he had been ordered to reduce
+the number of rhinos in his district in the interest of public safety
+and that he had killed thirty-five in all. Out of this number five
+charged him. That would indicate that one rhino in seven will charge.
+Captain Dickinson, in his book, _Big Game Shooting on the Equator_,
+tells of a rhino that charged him so viciously that he threw down his
+bedding roll and the rhino tossed it and trampled it with great
+emphasis, after which it triumphantly trotted away, elated probably in
+the thought that it had wiped out its enemy. A number of fatalities are
+on record to prove that the rhino is a dangerous beast at times, and so
+I must conclude that the rhino experiences we had were exceedingly lucky
+ones, and perhaps exceptional ones in that respect.
+
+In only one instance was it necessary for us to kill a rhino and even
+then it was done more in the interest of photography than of urgent
+necessity. On our game licenses we were each allowed to kill two rhinos,
+and as I wanted, one of the Tana River variety it was arranged that I
+should try to get the first big one with good horns. After a hunt of
+several hours we found two of them together out on the slope of a long
+hill. Our glasses showed that one of them was quite large and equipped
+with a splendid front horn nearly two feet long and a rear horn about a
+foot long. At the lower slope of the hill were two or three trees that
+screened our approach so that we were easily enabled to get within about
+one hundred and fifty yards of them without danger of discovery. From
+the trees onward the country was an open prairie for two or three miles.
+
+Armed with a double-barreled cordite rifle and the comforting reflection
+that the chances were seven to one that the rhinos would not charge, I
+slowly advanced alone toward the two rhinos. Behind me about fifty yards
+was the long range camera and a second gun manned by Mr. Stephenson.
+When fifty yards from the rhinos I stopped, but as no offensive tactics
+were apparent in the camp of the enemy, I slowly walked forward to
+thirty-five yards. Then they saw me. They faced me with what seemed like
+an attitude of decided unfriendliness. Their tails were up and they were
+snorting like steam engines. When the big one started toward me I fired
+and it fell like a log. The other one, instead of thundering away,
+according to expectations, became more belligerent. It ran a few steps,
+then swung around, and I felt certain that it was going to avenge the
+death of its comrade. The camera brigade rushed forward, clapping their
+hands to scare it away, as there was no desire to kill both of the
+animals. But it refused to go. It would sometimes run a few steps, then
+it would turn and come toward us. It was evidently in a fighting mood,
+with no intention of deserting the field of action. Finally by firing
+shots in the air and yelling noisily it turned and dashed over the side
+of the hill. The photograph, taken at the instant the big rhino was
+struck, was remarkably dramatic and showed one rhino in an aggressive
+attitude and the other just plunging down from the shot of the big
+bullet.
+
+The front horn of the dead rhino was twenty and three-quarters inches
+long and in many places the animal's hide was over an inch thick. Strips
+of this were cut off to make whips, and a large section was removed to
+be made into a table top. These table tops, polished and rendered
+translucent by the curing processes, are beautiful as well as extremely
+interesting. The rhino's tongue is even more delicious to eat than ox
+tongue and rhino tail soup is a great luxury on any white man's table;
+while the native porters consider rhino meat the finest of any meat to
+be had in Africa. The conscience of one who slays a rhino is somewhat
+appeased by the fact that a hundred native porters will have a good
+square meal of wholesome meat to help build up their systems.
+
+[Drawing: _A Real Rhino Charge_]
+
+Our expedition sustained only one real rhino charge. One day Mr.
+Stephenson stumbled on a big cow rhino that was lying in the grass. The
+meeting was as unexpected to him as to her, and before he could count
+five she was rushing headlong toward him. He clapped his hands,
+whistled, and shouted to turn her course, but she came on, snorting
+loudly and with head ready to impale everything in its way. Stephenson
+did not want to kill her, neither did he desire to be killed, so when
+all other means had failed he fired a soft nose bullet into her shoulder
+in the hope that it would turn her away without seriously hurting her.
+The bullet seemed to have no effect and she did not change her course in
+the slightest degree. By this time she was within a short distance of
+Stephenson, who was obliged to run a few feet and take refuge behind a
+tree.
+
+[Photograph: The Sultan Looked Like an American Indian]
+
+[Photograph: In the Thorn Brush on the Tana]
+
+[Photograph: The Dummy Rhino]
+
+The gunbearers and porters, who had fled in all directions, thought that
+Stephenson was caught, but the rhino, passing him with only a small
+margin of five feet, continued thunderously on her way. In a few yards
+she slowed down, and when last seen was walking. She had evidently been
+hit very hard by the soft nose bullet and was already showing signs of
+sickness. Suddenly a terrific squealing made the party aware that the
+cow rhino had been accompanied by a little rhino calf. The calf, only a
+couple of weeks old, charged savagely at every one in sight and every
+one in sight took refuge behind trees and bushes. Instead of trying to
+escape, the animal turned and continued to attack in all directions
+whenever a man showed himself. When a man leaped behind a tree the calf
+would charge the tree with such force that it would be hurled back
+several feet, only to spring up and charge again. His squealing could be
+heard for a mile. After a long time the porters succeeded in capturing
+it and they conveyed it back to camp strung on a pole. If that little
+rhino was any criterion of rhino pugnacity, then surely the rhino is
+born with the instinctive impulse to charge and to fight as savagely as
+any animal alive.
+
+We fed our little pet rhino on milk and then swung it in a comfortable
+hammock made of zebra skin. In this more or less undignified fashion it
+was carried by eight strong porters to Fort Hall, two marches away,
+where it lived only a week or ten days and then, to our sorrow and
+regret, succumbed from lack of proper nourishment.
+
+[Drawing: _Retiring in Favor of Rhino_]
+
+Sometimes, when the _safari_ is marching through bush country, the rhino
+becomes an element of considerable anxiety; An armed party must precede
+the caravan and clear the route of rhinos, otherwise the porters are
+likely to be scattered by threatened charges. It is no uncommon sight to
+see a crowd of heavily laden porters drop their loads and shin up the
+nearest tree in record time. Consequently, strong protective measures
+are always demanded when a long train of unarmed natives is moving
+through bush or scrub country where there are many rhinos.
+
+[Drawing: _Favorite Way of Being Photographed_]
+
+The lower Tana River country is admirably adapted to the life habits of
+the rhinos. Formerly the district was well settled by natives, but now,
+owing to the fever conditions prevailing there, the natives have all
+moved away to more wholesome places and only the forlorn remains of
+deserted villages mark where former prosperity reigned. The country has
+been abandoned to game, with the result that it has been enormously
+increasing during the last few years. In addition to the great numbers
+of rhinos there are big herds of buffalo, enormous numbers of hippo in
+the river, and many small droves of eland. Waterbuck, bushbuck,
+steinbuck, impalla, hartebeest and zebra dwell in comparative immunity
+from danger and may be seen in hundreds, grazing on the hills or in the
+woods that fringe the river. It is a sportsman's paradise, if he manages
+to escape the fever, and we enjoyed it tremendously, even though we shot
+only a hundredth part of what we might easily have shot. The charm of
+hunting in such a region lies in what one sees rather than in what one
+kills.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+MEETING COLONEL ROOSEVELT IN THE UTTERMOST OUTPOST OF SEMI-CIVILIZATION.
+HE TALKS OF MANY THINGS, HEARS THAT HE HAS BEEN REPORTED DEAD, AND
+PROMPTLY PLANS AN ELEPHANT HUNT
+
+
+After one has been in British East Africa two months he begins to
+readjust his preconceived ideas to fit real conditions. He discovers
+that nothing is really as bad as he feared it would be, and that
+distance, as usual, has magnified the terrors of a far-away land. In
+spite of the fact that he is in the heart of a primitive country,
+surrounded by native tribes that still are mystified by a glass mirror,
+and perhaps many days' march from the nearest white person, he still may
+feel that he is in touch with the great world outside. His mail reaches
+him somehow or other, even if he is in the center of some vast unsettled
+district devoid of roads or trails.
+
+How it is done is a mystery; but the fact remains that every once in a
+while a black man appears as by magic and hands one a package containing
+letters and telegrams. He is a native "runner," whose business it is to
+find you wherever you may be, and he does it, no matter how long it may
+take him. A telegram addressed to any sportsman in East Africa would
+reach him if only addressed with his name and the words "British East
+Africa." There are only four or five thousand white residents in the
+whole protectorate, and the names of these are duly catalogued and known
+to the post-office officials both in Mombasa and Nairobi.
+
+[Photograph: _In the Forest_]
+
+If a strange name appears on a letter or despatch, inquiries are made
+and the identity of the stranger is quickly established. If he is a
+sportsman, the outfitters in Nairobi will know who he is. They will have
+equipped him with porters and the other essentials of a caravan, and
+they will know exactly in which section of the protectorate he is
+hunting. So the letter is readdressed in care of the _boma_ or
+government station, nearest to that section. The letter duly arrives at
+the _boma_, and a native runner is told to go out and deliver the
+message. He starts off, and by inquiry of other natives and by relying
+on a natural instinct that is little short of marvelous he ultimately
+finds the object of his search and delivers his message.
+
+If you look at a map of British East Africa you will be amazed at the
+number of names that are marked upon it. You would quite naturally think
+that the country was rather thickly settled, whereas in fact there are
+very few places of settlement away from the single line of railroad that
+runs from Mombasa to Victoria Nyanza. The protectorate is divided into
+subdistricts, each one of which has a capital, or _boma_, as it is
+called. This _boma_ usually consists of a white man's residence, a
+little post-office, one or two Indian stores where all the necessities
+of a simple life may be procured, and a number of native grass huts.
+There is usually a small detachment of askaris, or native soldiers, who
+are necessary to enforce the law, repress any native uprising, and
+collect the hut tax of one dollar a year that is imposed upon each
+household in the district.
+
+Other names on the map may look important, but will prove to be only
+streams, or hills, or some landmarks that have been used by the
+surveyors to signify certain places. In our five weeks' trip through
+Trans-Tanaland we found only two _bomas_, Fort Hall and Embo, and three
+or four ranches where one or more white men lived. In our expedition to
+Mount Elgon we encountered only two places where the mark of
+civilization showed--Eldoma Ravine and Sergoi. In the former place the
+only white man was the subcommissioner, and in the latter there was one
+policeman, and a general store kept by a South African. A number of Boer
+settlers are scattered over the plateau, trying to reclaim little
+sections of land from its primitive state.
+
+Between Sergoi and Londiani, on the railroad, ninety miles south, there
+is one little store where caravans may buy food for porters and some of
+the simpler necessities that white men may require. All the rest of the
+country for thousands of square miles is given up to the lion and zebra
+and the vast herds of antelope that feed upon the rich grass of the
+plateau.
+
+Yet in spite of the sparsity of settlement the native runner manages to
+find you, even after days of traveling, without compass or directions to
+aid him.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. An Askari Who Looked Like a
+Tragedian]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Mr. Akeley]
+
+Hunters who come to East Africa usually are sent to certain districts
+where game is known to be abundant. These districts are well defined and
+oftentimes there may be a number of _safaris_ in them at the same time,
+but so large are the districts that one group of hunters very rarely
+encroaches upon the others.
+
+Some parties are sent to Mount Kilima-Njaro, in the vicinity of which
+there is good hunting. Others are sent out from points along the
+railroad for certain classes of game that may be found only in those
+spots. Simba, on the railroad, is a favorite place for those who are
+after the yellow-maned or "plains" lion. Muhorini, also on the railroad,
+is a favorite place for those who want the roan antelope; Naivasha is a
+good place for hippo, and south of Kijabe, in what is called the Sotik,
+is a district where nearly all sorts of game abound. The Tana River is a
+favorite place for rhino, buffalo, nearly all sorts of antelope, and
+some lion; Mount Kenia is an elephant hunting ground, and the Aberdare
+Range, between Kenia and Naivasha, also is good for elephant. North of
+Kenia is the Guas Nyiro River, a rich district for game of many kinds.
+And so the country is divided up into sections that are sure to attract
+many sporting parties who desire certain kinds of game.
+
+Our first expedition out from Nairobi was across the Athi Plains to the
+Tana River and Mount Kenia, a wonderful trip for those who are willing
+to take chances with the fever down the Tana River. In five weeks we saw
+lion, rhino, buffalo, and elephant--the four groups of animals that are
+called "royal game"; also hippo, giraffe, eland, wildebeest, and many
+varieties of smaller game. It is doubtful whether there is any other
+section of East Africa where one could have a chance for so many
+different species of game in such a short time as the Tana River
+country.
+
+For our second expedition we selected the Guas Ngishu Plateau, the Nzoia
+River, and Mount Elgon. It is a long trip which involves elaborate
+preparation and some difficulty in keeping up supplies for the camp and
+the porters. It is the most promising place, however, for black-maned
+lion and elephant, and on account of these two capital prizes in the
+lottery of big game hunting occasional parties are willing to venture
+the time and expense necessary to reach this district.
+
+We disembarked, or "detrained," as they say down there, at a little
+station on the railroad called Londiani, eight miles south of the
+equator and about eighty miles from Victoria Nyanza. Then with two
+transport wagons drawn by thirty oxen, our horses for "galloping" lions,
+and one hundred porters, we marched north, always at an altitude of from
+seventy-five hundred to ninety-two hundred feet, through vast forests
+that stretched for miles on all sides. The country was beautiful beyond
+words--clean, wholesome, and vast. In many places the scenery was as
+trim, and apparently as finished as sections of the wooded hills and
+meadows of Surrey. One might easily imagine oneself in a great private
+estate where landscape gardeners had worked for years.
+
+[Drawing: _One of the Transport Wagons_]
+
+At night the cold was keen and four blankets were necessary the night we
+camped two miles from the equator. In the day the sun was hot in the
+midday hours, but never unpleasantly so. After two days of marching
+through forests and across great grassy folds in the earth we reached
+Eldoma Ravine, a subcommissioner's _boma_ that looks for all the world
+like a mountain health resort. From the hill upon which the station is
+situated one may look across the Great Rift Valley, two thousand feet
+below, and stretching away for miles across, like a Grand Canon of
+Arizona without any mountains in it. Strong stone walls protect the
+white residence, for this is a section of the country that has suffered
+much from native uprisings during the last few years. We called on the
+solitary white resident one evening, and, true to the creed of the
+Briton, he had dressed for dinner. The sight of a man in a dinner-coat
+miles from a white man and leagues from a white woman was something to
+remember and marvel at.
+
+Northward from Eldoma Ravine for days we marched, sometimes in dense
+forests so thick that a man could scarcely force himself through the
+undergrowth that flanked the trail, and sometimes through upland meadows
+so deep in tall yellow grass as to suggest a field of waving grain, then
+through miles of country studded with the gnarled thorn tree that looks
+so much like our apple trees at home. It was as though we were
+traversing an endless orchard, clean, beautiful, and exhilarating in the
+cool winds of the African highlands. And then, all suddenly, we came to
+the end of the trees, and before us, like a great, heaving yellow sea,
+lay the Guas Ngishu Plateau that stretches northward one hundred miles
+and always above seven thousand feet in altitude.
+
+Far ahead, like a little knob of blue, was Sergoi Hill, forty miles
+away, and beyond, in a fainter blue, were the hills that mark the limit
+of white man's passport. On the map that district is marked: "Natives
+probably treacherous." Off to the left, a hundred miles away, the dim
+outline of Mount Elgon rose in easy slopes from the horizon. Elgon, with
+its elephants, was our goal, and in between were the black-maned lions
+that we hoped to meet.
+
+It would be hard to exaggerate the charm of this climate. And yet this,
+one thought, was equatorial Africa, which, in the popular imagination,
+is supposed to be synonymous with torrential rains, malignant fevers,
+and dense jungles of matted vegetation. It was more like the friendly
+stretches of Colorado scenery at the time of year when the grasses of
+the valley are dotted with flowers of many colors and the sun shines
+down upon you with genial warmth.
+
+[Drawing: _A Night on the Equator_]
+
+Each morning we marched ten or twelve miles and then went into camp near
+some little stream. In the afternoon we hunted for lions, beating out
+swamps, scouting every bit of cover and combing the tall grass for hours
+at a time. Hartebeest, topi, zebra, eland, oribi, reedbuck, and small
+grass antelope were upon all sides and at all times.
+
+The herds of zebra and hartebeest literally numbered thousands, but,
+except as the latter were occasionally required for food for the
+porters, we seldom tried to shoot them. Every Boer settler we saw was
+interviewed and every promising lion clue was followed to the bitter
+end, but without result. Sometimes we remained in one camp a day or more
+in order to search the lion retreats more thoroughly, but never a
+black-maned lion was routed from his lair. A few weeks later, when the
+dry grass had been burned to make way for new grass, as is done each
+year, the chances would be greatly improved, and we hoped for better
+luck when we retraced our steps from Elgon in December. Before that time
+it would be like trying to find a needle in a haystack to find a lion in
+the tall grass, and a good deal more dangerous if we did find one. There
+were lots of them there, but they were taking excellent care of
+themselves. In July, three months previous, Mr. McMillan, Mr. Selous,
+and Mr. Williams were in this same district after black-maned lions.
+They heard them every night, but saw only one in several weeks. This
+one, however, made a distinct impression. Williams saw it one day and
+wounded it at two hundred yards. The lion charged and could not be
+stopped by Williams' bullets. It was only after it had leaped on the
+hunter and frightfully mauled him that the lion succumbed to its wounds.
+And it was only after months of suffering that Williams finally
+recovered from the mauling.
+
+We felt that if Frederick Selous, the world's greatest big game hunter,
+could not find the lion, then our chances were somewhat slim.
+
+[Drawing: _Lion Hunting in Tall Grass_]
+
+There had been few parties in this district since McMillan's party left.
+Captain Ashton came in two months before us, and we met him on his way
+out. With him was Captain Black, a professional elephant hunter, who,
+three years before, on the Aberdare, had had a bad experience with an
+elephant. It was a cow that he had wounded but failed to kill. She
+charged him and knocked him down in a pile of very thick and matted
+brush. Three times she trampled him under her feet, but the bushes
+served as a kind of mattress and the captain escaped with only a few
+hones broken; although he was laid up for five weeks. Ashton and Black
+did not have much luck in the present trip and failed to get a single
+lion.
+
+Two Spaniards passed our camp one day, inward bound. They were the Duke
+of Penaranda and Sr. de la Huerta, and reported no lions during their
+few days in the district. Prince Lichtenstein was also somewhere on the
+plateau, but we didn't run across him. In addition to these three
+parties and ours, the only other expedition in the Guas Ngishu Plateau
+was Colonel Roosevelt's party, toward which, by previous agreement, we
+made our way.
+
+A number of months before Mr. Akeley, who headed our party, was dining
+with President Roosevelt at the White House. In the course of their
+talk, which was about Africa and Mr. Akeley's former African hunting and
+collecting experiences, the latter had told the president about a group
+of elephants that he was going to collect and mount for the American
+Museum of History in New York. President Roosevelt was asked if he would
+cooeperate in the work, and he expressed a keen willingness to do so.
+When our party arrived at Nairobi, in September, a letter awaited Mr.
+Akeley, renewing Colonel Roosevelt's desire to help in collecting the
+group.
+
+It was in answer to this invitation that Mr. Akeley and our party had
+gone to the Mount Elgon country to meet Mr. Roosevelt and carry out the
+elephant-hunting compact made many months before at the White House.
+
+[Photograph: Kermit, Leslie Tarlton and Colonel Roosevelt]
+
+[Photograph: Winding Through Unbroken Country]
+
+[Photograph: Our Safari on the March]
+
+Eleven days of marching and hunting from the railroad brought us to
+Sergoi, the very uttermost outpost of semi-civilization. Here we found
+another letter in which Mr. Akeley was asked to come to the Roosevelt
+camp, and which suggested that a native runner could pilot him to its
+whereabouts. The letter had been written some days before and had been
+for some time at Sergoi. Whether the Roosevelt camp had been moved in
+the meantime could not be determined at Sergoi, and we knew only in a
+general way that it was probably somewhere on the Nzoia River
+(pronounced Enzoya), two or three days' march west of Sergoi, toward
+Mount Elgon.
+
+So we started across, meeting no natives who possibly could have given
+any information. On the afternoon of November thirteenth we went into
+camp on the edge of a great swamp, or _tinga-tinga_, as the natives
+call it, only a couple of hours' march from the river. Many fresh
+elephant trails had been discovered, and the swamp itself looked like a
+most promising place for lions. A great tree stood on one side of the
+swamp, and in its branches was a platform which an Englishman had
+occupied seven nights in a vain quest for lions some time before. A
+little grass shelter was below the tree, and as we approached a
+Wanderobo darted out and ran in terror from us. The Wanderobos are
+native hunters who live in the forests, and are as shy as wild animals.
+So we could not question him as to Colonel Roosevelt's camp. Later in
+the afternoon a native runner appeared from the direction of Sergoi with
+a message to the colonel, but he didn't know where the camp was and
+didn't seem to be in any great hurry to find out. He calmly made himself
+the guest of one of our porters and spent the night in our camp, doing
+much more sitting than running.
+
+On the morning of the fourteenth we marched toward the river, two hours
+away, the native runner slowly ambling along with us. We had been on the
+trail about an hour and a half when a shot was heard off to our left; At
+first we thought it was our Spanish friends, but a few moments later we
+came to a point where we could see, about a mile away, a long string of
+porters winding along in the direction from which we came, it was
+plainly a much larger _safari_ than the Spanish one, and we at once
+concluded that it was Colonel Roosevelt's.
+
+Three or four men on horses were visible, but could not be recognized
+with our glasses. The number corresponded to the colonel's party,
+however, which we knew to consist of himself and Kermit, Edmund Heller
+and Leslie Tarlton. A messenger was sent across the hills to establish
+their identity and we marched on to the river, a half-hour farther,
+where we found the smoldering fires of their camp.
+
+A transport wagon of supplies for the Duke of Penaranda's _safari_ was
+also there, and from the drivers it was definitely learned that the late
+occupants of the camp were Mr. Roosevelt and his party. In the meantime
+the messenger had reached Colonel Roosevelt, and when the latter learned
+that Mr. Akeley's _safari_ was in the vicinity he at once ordered camp
+pitched forty-five minutes from our camp, and started across to see
+Akeley. The latter had also started across to see the colonel, and they
+met on the way. And during all this time the native runner with the
+message to Colonel Roosevelt was loafing the morning away in our camp.
+What the message might be, of course, we didn't know, but we hoped that
+it was nothing of importance. It was only when the colonel and his party
+reached our camp that the message was delivered. As we stood talking and
+congratulating everybody on how well he was looking the colonel casually
+opened the message.
+
+He seemed amused, and somewhat surprised, and at once read it aloud to
+us. It was from America, and said: "Reported here you have been killed.
+Mrs. Roosevelt worried. Cable denial American Embassy, Rome." It was
+dated November sixth, eight days before.
+
+"I think I might answer that by saying that the report is premature," he
+said, laughing, and then told the story of a Texas man who had commented
+on a similar report in the same words.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt certainly didn't look dead. If ever a man looked
+rugged and healthy and in splendid physical condition he certainly did
+on the day that this despatch reached him. His cheeks were burned to a
+ruddy tan and his eyes were as clear as a plainsman's. He laughed and
+joked and commented on the news that we told him with all the enthusiasm
+of one who knows no physical cares or worries.
+
+[Drawing: _Reading the Report That He Had Been Killed_]
+
+"If I could have seen you an hour and a half ago," he told Akeley, "I
+could have got you the elephants you want for your group. We passed
+within only a few yards of a herd of ten this morning, and Kermit got
+within thirty yards to make some photographs." They had not shot any,
+however, as they had received no answer to the letter sent several days
+before to Mr. Akeley and consequently did not know positively that his
+party had reached the plateau.
+
+The colonel asked about George Ade, commented vigorously and with
+prophetic insight on the Cook-Peary controversy, and read aloud, in
+excellent dialect, a Dooley article on the subject, which I had saved
+from an old copy of the Chicago _Tribune_. He commented very frankly,
+with no semblance at hypocrisy, on Mr. Harriman's death, told many of
+his experiences in the hunting field, and for three hours, at lunch and
+afterward, he talked with the freedom of one who was glad to see some
+American friends in the wilderness and who had no objection to showing
+his pleasure at such a meeting.
+
+He talked about the tariff and about many public men and public
+questions with a frankness that compels even a newspaper man to regard
+as being confidential. Our _safari_ was the only one he had met in the
+field since he had been in Africa, and it was evident that the efforts
+of the protectorate officials to save him from interference and
+intrusion had been successful.
+
+Arrangements were then made for an elephant hunt. Colonel Roosevelt was
+working on schedule time, and had planned to be in Sergoi on the
+seventeenth. He agreed to a hunt that should cover the fifteenth,
+sixteenth, and possibly the seventeenth, trusting that they might be
+successful in this period and that a hard forced march could get him to
+Sergoi on the night of the eighteenth.
+
+It was arranged that he and Mr. Akeley, with Kermit and Tarlton and one
+tent should start early the next morning on the hunt, trusting to luck
+in overtaking the herd that he had seen in the morning. The hunt was
+enormously successful, and the adventures they had were so interesting
+that they deserve a separate chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE COLONEL READS MACAULAY'S "ESSAYS," DISCOURSES ON MANY SUBJECTS WITH
+GREAT FRANKNESS, DECLINES A DRINK OF SCOTCH WHISKY, AND KILLS THREE
+ELEPHANTS
+
+
+On the afternoon of November fourteenth, a little cavalcade of horsemen
+might have been seen riding slowly away from our camp on the Nzoia
+River. One of them, evidently the leader, was a well-built man of about
+fifty-one years, tanned by many months of African hunting and wearing a
+pair of large spectacles. His teeth flashed in the warm sunlight. A
+rough hunting shirt encased his well-knit body and a pair of rougher
+trousers, reinforced with leather knee caps and jointly sustained by
+suspenders and a belt, fitted in loose folds around his stocky legs. On
+his head was a big sun helmet, and around his waist, less generous in
+amplitude than formerly, was a partly filled belt of Winchester
+cartridges. His horse was a stout little Abyssinian shooting pony, gray
+of color and lean in build, and in the blood-stained saddle-bag was a
+well-worn copy of Macaulay's _Essays_, bound in pigskin. Our hero--for
+it was he--was none other than Bwana Tumbo, the hunter-naturalist,
+exponent of the strenuous life, and ex-president of the United States.
+
+[Drawing: _Improving Each Shining Hour_]
+
+If I were writing a thrilling story of adventure that is the way this
+story would begin. But as this is designed to be a simple chronicle of
+events, it is just as well at once to get down to basic facts and tell
+about the Roosevelt elephant hunt, the hyena episode, and the pigskin
+library, together with other more or less extraneous matter.
+
+[Photograph: A Flag Flew Over the Colonel's Tent]
+
+[Photograph: Kermit and Mr. Stephenson Diagnosing the Case]
+
+Colonel Roosevelt, his son Kermit, Leslie Tarlton, who is managing the
+Roosevelt expedition, and Edmund Heller, the taxidermist of the
+expedition, came to our camp on the fourteenth of November to have
+luncheon and to talk over plans whereby Colonel Roosevelt was to kill
+one or more elephants for Mr. Akeley's American museum group of five or
+six elephants. The details were all arranged and later in the afternoon
+the colonel and his party left for their own camp, only a short distance
+from ours.
+
+Mr. Akeley, with one of our tents and about forty porters, followed
+later in the evening and spent the night at the Roosevelt camp. The
+following morning Colonel Roosevelt, Mr. Akeley, Mr. Tarlton and Kermit,
+with two tents and forty porters and gunbearers, started early in the
+hope of again finding the trail of the small herd of elephants that had
+been seen the day before. The trail was picked up after a short time and
+the party of hunters expected that it would be a long and wearisome
+pursuit, for it was evident that the elephants had become nervous and
+were moving steadily along without stopping to feed. In such cases they
+frequently travel forty or fifty miles before settling down to quiet
+feeding again.
+
+The country was hilly, deep with dry grass, and badly cut up with small
+gullies and jagged out-croppings of rock on the low ridges. At all times
+the ears of the hunting party were alert for any sound that would
+indicate the proximity of the herd, but for several hours no trumpeting,
+nor intestinal rumbling, nor crash of tusks against small trees were
+heard. Finally, at about eleven o'clock, Tarlton, who, strangely enough,
+is partly deaf, heard a sound that caused the hunting party to stop
+short. He heard elephants. They were undoubtedly only a short distance
+ahead, but as the wind was from their direction there was little
+likelihood that they had heard the approach of the hunters. So Tarlton,
+who has had much experience in elephant hunting, led the party off at a
+right angle from the elephant trail and then, turning, paralleled the
+trail a few hundred feet away. They had gone only a short distance when
+it became evident that they had passed the herd, which was hidden by the
+tall grass and the thickly-growing scrub trees that grew on all sides.
+
+The wooded character of the country rendered it easy to stalk the
+elephant herd, and with careful attention to the wind, the four hunters
+and their gunbearers advanced under cover until the elephants could be
+seen and studied. Each of the four hunters carried a large
+double-barreled cordite rifle that fires a five-hundred-grain bullet,
+backed up by nearly a hundred grains of cordite.
+
+As was expected, the herd consisted solely of cows and calves. There
+were eight cow elephants and two _totos_, or calves, a circumstance that
+was particularly fortunate, as Colonel Roosevelt was expected to secure
+one or two cows for the group, while some one else was to get the calf.
+
+For some moments the hunting party studied the group of animals and
+finally decided which ones were the best for the group.
+
+Two of the largest cows and the calf of one of them were selected. It is
+always the desire of collectors who kill groups of animals for museums
+to kill the calf and the mother at the same time whenever practicable,
+so that neither one is left to mourn the loss of the other. It is one of
+the unpleasant features of group collecting that calves must be killed,
+but the collector justifies himself in the thought that many thousands
+of people will be instructed and interested in the group when it is
+finished.
+
+Elephant hunting is considered by many African hunters as being the most
+dangerous of all hunting. When a man is wounded by an elephant he is
+pretty likely to die, whereas the wounds inflicted by lions are often
+not necessarily mortal ones. Also, in fighting a wounded lion one may
+sometimes take refuge in the low branches of a tree, but with a wounded
+elephant there is rarely time to climb high enough and quick enough to
+escape the frenzied animal. In elephant shooting, also, the hunter
+endeavors to approach within twenty or thirty yards, so that the bullets
+may be placed exactly where their penetration will be the most
+instantaneously deadly. Consequently, a badly placed bullet may merely
+infuriate the elephant without giving the hunter time to gain a place of
+safety, and thus be much worse than if the hunter had entirely missed
+his mark.
+
+Among elephant hunters it is considered more dangerous to attack a cow
+elephant than a bull, for the cow is always ready and eager to defend
+its calf, hence when Colonel Roosevelt prepared to open fire on a cow
+elephant, accompanied by a calf, at a range of thirty yards, in a
+district where the highest tree was within reach of an elephant's trunk,
+the situation was one fraught with tense uncertainty.
+
+Colonel Roosevelt is undoubtedly a brave man. The men who have hunted
+with him in Africa say that he has never shown the slightest sign of
+fear in all the months of big game hunting that they have done together.
+He "holds straight," as they say in shooting parlance, and at short
+range, where his eyesight is most effective, he shoots accurately.
+
+This, then, was the dramatic situation at about twelve o'clock noon on
+November fifteenth, eight miles east of the Nzoia River, near Mount
+Elgon: Eight cow elephants, two _totos_, one ex-president with a
+double-barreled cordite rifle thirty yards away, supported by three
+other hunters similarly armed, with native gunbearers held in the rear
+as a supporting column.
+
+The colonel opened fire; the biggest cow dropped to her knees and in an
+instant the air was thunderous with the excited "milling" of the herd of
+elephants. For several anxious minutes the spot was the scene of much
+confusion, and when quiet was once more restored Colonel Roosevelt had
+killed three elephants and Kermit had killed one of the calves. It had
+not been intended or desired to kill more than two of the cows, but with
+a herd of angry elephants threatening to annihilate an attacking party,
+sometimes the prearranged plans do not work out according to
+specifications.
+
+Kermit was hastily despatched to notify our camp and the work of
+preparing the skins of the elephants was at once begun.
+
+In the meantime, we at our camp, eight miles away from the scene of
+battle, were waiting eagerly for news of the hunting party, although
+expecting nothing for a day of so. It seemed too much to expect that the
+hunt should have such a quick and successful termination. So when Kermit
+rode in with the news late in the afternoon it was a time for
+felicitation. We all solemnly took a drink, which in itself was an
+event, for our camp was a "dry" camp when in the field. Only the killing
+of a lion had been sufficient provocation for taking off the "lid," but
+on the strength of three elephants for the group the "lid" was
+momentarily raised with much ceremony and circumstance.
+
+The burden of Kermit's message was "salt, salt, salt!" and porters and
+second gunbearers to help with the skinning. So James L. Clark, who has
+been connected with the American Museum of History for some time and who
+was with us on the Mount Elgon trip to help Mr. Akeley with the
+preparation of the group, started off with a lot of porters laden with
+salt for preserving the skins. It was his plan to go direct to the main
+Roosevelt camp, get a guide, and then push on to the elephant camp,
+where he hoped to arrive by ten o'clock at night. He would then be in
+time to help with the skinning, which we expected would be continued
+throughout the entire night. Kermit stopped at his own camp and gave
+Clark a guide for the rest of the journey, after which he went to bed.
+
+At eleven o'clock the sound of firing was heard some place off in the
+darkness. The night guard of the Roosevelt camp, rightly construing it
+to be a signal, answered it with a shot, and, guided by the latter,
+Clark and his party of salt-laden porters once more appeared. They had
+traveled in a circle for three hours and were hopelessly lost. Kermit
+was routed out and again supplied more guides--also a compass and also
+the direction to follow. Unfortunately he made a mistake and said
+northwest instead of southeast--otherwise his directions were perfect.
+
+For three hours more Clark and his porters went bumping through the
+night, stumbling through the long grass and falling into hidden holes.
+The porters began to be mutinous and the guides were thoroughly and
+hopelessly lost. It was then that they one and all laid down in the tall
+grass, made a fire to keep the lions and leopards away, and slept
+soundly until daylight. Even then the situation was little better, for
+the guides were still at sea. About the time that Clark decided, to
+return to the river, miles away, and take a fresh start, he fired a shot
+in the forlorn hope of getting a response from some section of the
+compass. A distant shot came in answer and he pushed on and soon came up
+with the colonel and Tarlton returning home after a night in the
+temporary elephant camp. The colonel gave him full directions and at
+nine o'clock the relief party arrived at their destination.
+
+In the meantime we, Mrs. Akeley, Stephenson and myself, had left our
+camp on the river at six-fifteen, gone to the Roosevelt camp, and with
+Kermit guiding us proceeded on across country toward the elephant camp.
+On our way we also met the colonel and Tarlton, the former immensely
+pleased with the outcome of the hunt and full of enthusiasm about the
+adventure with the elephants. But the most remarkable thing of all, he
+said, was the hyena incident. He told us the story, and it is surely one
+that will make all nature fakers sit up in an incredulous and dissenting
+mood.
+
+During the night, the story goes, many hyenas had come from far and near
+to gorge on the carcasses of the elephants. Their howls filled the night
+with weird sounds. Lions also journeyed to the feast, and between the
+two they mumbled the bones of the slain with many a howl and snarl.
+Early in the morning the colonel went out in the hope of surprising a
+lion at the spread. Instead, to his great amazement, he saw the head of
+a hyena protruding from the distended side of the largest elephant. It
+was inside the elephant and was looking out, as through a window. A
+single shot finished the hyena, after which a more careful examination
+was made.
+
+There are two theories as to what really happened. One is that the hyena
+ate its way into the inside of the elephant, then gorged itself so that
+its stomach was distended to such proportions that it couldn't get
+through the hole by which it had entered the carcass.
+
+[Drawing: _The Hyena Episode_]
+
+The other theory is that, after eating its way into the elephant, it
+started to eat its way out by a different route. When its head emerged
+the heavy muscles of the elephant's side inclosed about its neck like a
+vise, entrapping the hyena as effectively as though it had its head in a
+steel trap. In the animal's despairing efforts to escape it had kicked
+one leg out through the thick walls of the elephant's side.
+
+[Photograph: Kermit Roosevelt]
+
+[Photograph: "Peeling" an elephant]
+
+The colonel, in parting, asked us to stop with him for lunch on our way
+back and he would tell us all about the elephant hunt and show us his
+pigskin library. In return we promised to photograph the hyena and thus
+be prepared to render expert testimony in case, some time in the future,
+he might get into a controversy with the nature fakers as to the truth
+of the incident.
+
+We then resumed our journey and arrived at the elephant camp at
+nine-thirty. It was a scene of industry. The skins of the two largest
+elephants and that of the calf had been removed the afternoon before and
+were spread out under a cluster of trees. Twenty or thirty porters were
+squatted around the various ears and strips of hide and massive feet,
+paring off all the little particles of flesh or tissue that remained. As
+fast as a section of hide was stripped it was thickly covered with salt
+and rolled up. This is the preliminary step. Afterwards the skin, in
+many places an inch in thickness, is pared down to a condition of
+pliable thinness. This work requires hours or even days of hard labor by
+many skilful wielders of the paring knife. The skulls and many of the
+bones are saved when an animal is being preserved for a museum, but when
+we arrived they had not yet been removed from the carcasses.
+
+Our first object was to visit the hyena, which we found still protruding
+from the side of his tomb. We photographed him from all angles, after
+which he was disinterred and exposed to full view. He had certainly died
+happy. He had literally eaten himself to death, and his body was so
+distended from gorging that it was as round as a ball. Colonel Roosevelt
+also photographed it, so that there will be no lack of evidence if the
+incident ever reaches the controversial stage.
+
+The third cow killed by Colonel Roosevelt was too small for the group,
+so the skin was divided up as souvenirs of the day. We each got a foot,
+fifteen square feet of skin, and one of the ears was saved for the
+colonel.
+
+We then started on the long two hours' ride back to the Roosevelt camp,
+arriving there at a few minutes before one o'clock. We had not been in
+camp ten minutes before a whirlwind came along, blew down a tent, and in
+another minute was gone.
+
+A big American flag was flying from the colonel's tent, and he came out
+and, greeted us with the utmost cordiality and warmth. In honor of the
+occasion he had put on his coat and a green knit tie. He was beaming
+with pleasure at the result of the elephant hunt and seemed proud that
+he was to have elephants in the American Museum group to be done by Mr.
+Akeley. Heller was stuffing some birds and mice and was as slouchy,
+deliberate and as full of dry humor as any one I've ever seen. He is a
+character of a most likable type. Tarlton, small, with short cropped red
+hair--a sort of Scotchman in appearance--is also a remarkable type. He
+has a quiet voice, never raised in tone, and talks like the university
+man that he is. He is a famous lion hunter and has killed numbers of
+lions and elephants, but now he says he is through with dangerous game.
+
+"I've had enough of it," he says.
+
+The colonel, Tarlton, Heller, and Kermit were the only members of the
+expedition present, Mearns and Loring having been engaged in a separate
+mission up in the Kenia country for several weeks, while Cuninghame had
+gone to Uganda to make preparations for the future operations of the
+party in that country.
+
+Mrs. Akeley washed up in the colonel's tent, while Stephenson and I used
+Kermit's tent, and as we washed and scrubbed away the memories of the
+elephant carcasses the colonel stood in the door and talked to us.
+
+We told him that each of us had taken a drink of Scotch whisky the
+evening before in honor of the elephants--the first drinks we had taken
+for weeks.
+
+"I'd do the same," said the colonel, "but I don't like Scotch whisky. As
+a matter of fact, I have taken only three drinks of brandy since I've
+been in Africa, twice when I was exhausted and once when I was feeling a
+little feverish. Before I left Washington there were lots of people
+saying that I was a drunkard, and that I could never do any work until I
+had emptied a bottle or two of liquor."
+
+We told him that we had heard these rumors frequently during the closing
+months of his administration, and he laughed.
+
+"I never drank whisky," he said; "not from principle, but because I
+don't like it. I seldom drink wine, because I'm rather particular about
+the kind of wine I drink. We have some champagne with us, but the
+thought of drinking hot champagne in this country is unpleasant.
+Sometimes, when I can get wines that just suit my taste, I drink a
+little, but never much. The three drinks of brandy are all I've had in
+Africa, and I'm sure that I've not taken one in the last four months.
+They had all sorts of stories out about me before I left
+Washington--that I was drinking hard and that I was crazy. I may be
+crazy," he said, laughing, "but I most certainly haven't been drinking
+hard."
+
+The luncheon was a merry affair. Heller had been out in the swamp in
+front of the camp and had shot some ducks for luncheon.
+
+"On my way in," said the colonel, "I shot an oribi, but when I heard
+that Heller had shot some ducks I knew that my oribi would not be
+served."
+
+It was evident that the most thorough good fellowship existed among the
+members of the colonel's party. His fondness for all of them was in
+constant evidence--in the way he joked with them and in the complete
+absence of restraint in their attitude toward him.
+
+"They were told that I would be a hard man to get along with in the
+field," Colonel Roosevelt said, "but we've had a perfectly splendid time
+together."
+
+I asked him whether he had been receiving newspapers, and, if not,
+whether he would like to see some that I had received from home. He
+answered that he had not seen any and really didn't want to see any.
+
+"I don't believe in clinging to the tattered shreds of former
+greatness," he said, laughing.
+
+He had not heard that Governor Johnson, of Minnesota, had died, and when
+we told him he said that Johnson would undoubtedly have been the
+strongest presidential candidate the Democrats could have nominated the
+next time. He wanted to know where he could address a note of sympathy
+to Mrs. Johnson.
+
+Later, in speaking of a prominent public man who loudly disclaimed
+responsibility for an act committed by a subordinate, he said:
+
+"It would have been far better to have said nothing about it, but let
+people think he himself had given the order. Very often subordinates say
+and do things that are credited to their superiors, and it is never good
+policy to try to shift the blame. Do you remember the time Root was in
+South America? Well, some president down there sent me a congratulatory
+telegram which reached Washington when I was away. Mr. ---- of the state
+department answered it in my name and said that I and 'my people' were
+pleased with the reception they were giving Mr. Root. Well, the New York
+_Sun_ took the matter up and when the fleet went around the world they
+referred to it as 'my fleet,' and that 'my fleet' had crossed 'my
+equator' four times and 'my ocean' a couple of times. It was very
+cleverly done and some people began to call for a Brutus to curb my
+imperialistic tendencies."
+
+[Drawing: _Writing His Adventures While They're Hot_]
+
+He told a funny story about John L. Sullivan, who came to the White
+House to intercede for a nephew who had got into trouble in the navy.
+John L. told what a nice woman the boy's mother was and what a terrible
+disgrace it would be for himself and his family if the boy was dropped
+from the navy. "Why, if he hadn't gone into the navy he might have
+turned out very bad," said John L.; "taken up music or something like
+that."
+
+We also told him that some of the American papers were keeping score on
+the game he had killed, and that whenever the cable reported a new
+victim the score up to date would be published like a base-ball
+percentage table. In the last report he was quoted as having killed
+seven lions, while Kermit had killed ten. This seemed to amuse him very
+much, although the figures were not strictly accurate. His score was
+nine and Kermit's eight up to date. He was also amused by the habit the
+American papers have of calling him "Bwana Tumbo," which means "The
+Master with the Stomach," a title that did not fit him nearly so
+appropriately then as it might have done before he began his active days
+in the hunting field. He said, so far as he knew, the porters called him
+"Bwana Mkubwa," which means "Great Master," and is applied to the chief
+man of a _safari_, regardless of who or what he is. It is merely a title
+that is always used to designate the boss. We told him that many natives
+we had met would invariably refer to him as the Sultana Mkubwa, or Great
+Sultan, because they had heard that he was a big chief from America.
+
+He also laughingly quoted the attitude of Wall Street as expressed in
+the statement that they "hoped every lion would do his duty."
+
+Later, in speaking generally of the odd experiences he had had in
+Africa, he spoke of one that will surely be regarded as a nature fake
+when he tells it. It was an experience that he and Cuninghame had with a
+big bull giraffe which they approached as it slept. When they were
+within ten feet of it it opened its eyes and stared at them. A slight
+movement on their part caused it to strike out with its front foot, but
+without rising. Then, as they made no offensive moves, it continued to
+regard them sleepily and without fear. Even when they threw sticks at it
+it refused to budge, and it was only after some time that it was chased
+away, where it came to a stop only fifty yards off.
+
+"I suppose W.J. Long will call that a nature fake," he said, "and I wish
+that I had had a camera with me so that I could have photographed it.
+I'm afraid they won't believe Cuninghame, because they don't know him."
+
+In the course of the luncheon the conversation ranged from politics,
+public men, his magazine work, some phases of Illinois politics, as
+involved in the recent senatorial election, his future plans of the
+present African trip and many of the little experiences he had had since
+arriving in the country. Much that was said was of such frankness,
+particularly as to public men, as to be obviously confidential.
+
+[Photograph: Kermit Led the Way to the Elephant Camp]
+
+[Photograph: The Elephants' Skulls Were Saved]
+
+[Photograph: Removing an Elephant's Skin]
+
+He was asked whether he had secured, among his trophies, any new species
+of animal that might be named after him. In Africa there is a custom
+of giving the discoverer's name to any new kind or class of animal
+that is killed. For instance, the name "granti" is applied to the
+gazelle first discovered by the explorer Grant. "Thompsoni" is applied
+to the gazelle discovered by Thompson. "Cokei" is the name given the
+hartebeest discovered by Coke, and so on. If Colonel Roosevelt had
+discovered a new variation of any of the species it would be called the
+"Roosevelti ----."
+
+The colonel said that he had not discovered any new animals, but that
+Heller, he thought, had found some new variety of mouse or mole on Mount
+Kenia. He supposed that it would be called the Mole Helleri.
+
+He then told about an exciting adventure they had with a hippo two
+nights before. Away in the night the camp was aroused by screams coming
+from the big swamp in front. Kongoni, his gunbearer, rushed in and
+shouted: "Lion eat porter!" The colonel grabbed his gun and dashed out
+in the darkness. Kermit and one or two others, hastily armed, also
+appeared, and they charged down the swamp, where a hippo had made its
+appearance in the neighborhood of a terrified porter. Kermit dimly made
+out the hippo and shot at it, but it disappeared and could not be found
+again.
+
+After luncheon the colonel said, "Now, I want to inflict my pigskin
+library on you," and together we went into his tent and he opened an
+oilcloth-covered, aluminum-lined case that was closely packed with
+books, nearly all of which were bound in pigskin. It was a present from
+his sister, Mrs. Douglas Robinson. The tent was lined with red,
+evidently Kermit's darkroom when he was developing pictures. A little
+table stood at the open flaps of the entrance and upon it were writing
+materials, with which Mr. Roosevelt already had started to write up the
+elephant hunt of the day before. His motto seems to be, "Do it now, if
+not sooner."
+
+[Drawing: _The Pigskin Library_]
+
+I sat on his cot, Mrs. Akeley on a small tin trunk, and Stephenson on
+another. The colonel squatted down on the floor cloth of the tent and
+began to show us one by one the various literary treasures from his
+pigskin library. The whole box of books was so designed that it weighed
+only sixty pounds, and was thus within the limit of a porter's load.
+Some of the books were well stained from frequent use and from contact
+with the contents of his saddle-bags. Whenever he went on a hunt he
+carried one or more of these little volumes, which he would take out and
+read from time to time when there was nothing else to do. He never
+seemed to waste a moment.
+
+His pride in the library was evident, and the fondness with which he
+brought forth the books was the fondness of an honest enthusiast.
+
+"Some people don't consider Longfellow a great poet, but I do," he said,
+as he showed a little volume of the poet's works. "Lowell is represented
+here, but I think, toward the end of his life, he became too much
+Bostonian. The best American," he said later, "is a Bostonian who has
+lived ten years west of the Mississippi."
+
+He then showed us his work-box, a compact leather case containing pads
+of paper, pens, lead pencils, and other requirements of the writer. I
+did not see a type-writing machine such as we cartoonists have so often
+represented in our cartoons of Mr. Roosevelt in Africa. But, then,
+cartoonists are not always strictly accurate.
+
+Later on he spoke of the lectures he was to deliver in Berlin, at the
+Sorbonne in Paris, and in Oxford the following spring. I told him how
+surprised I had been to hear that he had prepared these lectures during
+the rush of the last few weeks of his administration. He said that he
+probably would be regarded as a representative American in those
+lectures and that he wanted to do them just as well as he possibly
+could. He knew that there would be no time nor library references in
+Africa, and so he had prepared them in Washington before leaving
+America.
+
+In regard to his future movements he seemed sorry that he was obliged to
+take the Nile trip, and that he was only doing it as a matter of
+business--that he had to get a white rhino, which is found only along
+certain parts of the Nile.
+
+"Going back by the Nile is a long and hard trip. For the first twelve
+days we will not fire a shot, probably. It will mean getting started
+every morning at three o'clock, marching until ten, then sweating under
+mosquito bars during the heat of the day, with spirillum ticks,
+sleeping-sickness flies, and all sorts of pests to bother one; then long
+days on the Nile, with nothing to see but papyrus reeds on each side."
+
+And speaking of "rhinos" suggests a little incident that the colonel
+told and which he considers amusing.
+
+"One day one of the party was stalking a buffalo, when a rhino suddenly
+appeared some distance away and threatened to charge or do something
+that would alarm the buffalo and scare it away. So they told me to hurry
+down and shoo the rhino off while they finished their stalk and got the
+buffalo. So, you see, there's an occupation. That settles the question
+as to what shall we do with our ex-presidents. They can be used to scare
+rhinos away."
+
+On hearing this story I remembered that the thick-skinned rhino is
+sometimes used by cartoonists as a symbol for "the trusts," and the
+story seemed doubly appropriate as applied to this particular
+ex-president.
+
+Some member of our party then modestly advanced the suggestion that the
+colonel might some day be back in the White House again. He laughed and
+said that the kaleidoscope never repeats.
+
+"They needn't worry about what to do with this ex-president," he said.
+"I have work laid out for a long time ahead."
+
+Another member of our party then told about the Roosevelt act in _The
+Follies of 1909_, in one part of which some one asks Kermit (in the
+play) where the "ex-president" is. "You mean the 'next president,' don't
+you?" says Kermit. When Colonel Roosevelt heard this he was immensely
+interested, not so much in the words of the play, but in the fact that
+Kermit had been represented on the stage--dramatized, as it were.
+
+And as we left for our own camp the colonel called out: "Now, don't
+forget. Just as soon as we all get back to America we'll have a lion
+dinner together at my house."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+ELEPHANT HUNTING NOT AN OCCASION FOR LIGHTSOME MERRYMAKING. FIVE HUNDRED
+THOUSAND ACRES OF FOREST IN WHICH THE KENIA ELEPHANT LIVES, WANDERS AND
+BRINGS UP HIS CHILDREN
+
+
+The peril and excitement of elephant hunting can not be realized by any
+one who has known only the big, placid elephants of the circus, or fed
+peanuts to a gentle-eyed pachyderm in the park. To the person thus
+circumscribed in his outlook, the idea of killing an elephant and
+calling it sport is little short of criminal. It would seem like going
+out in the barnyard and slaying a friendly old family horse.
+
+That was my point of view before I went to Africa, but later experiences
+caused the point of view to shift considerably. If any one thinks that
+elephant hunting is an occasion for lightsome merrymaking he had better
+not meet the African elephant in the rough. Most people are acquainted
+with only the Indian elephant, the kind commonly seen in captivity, and
+judge from him that the elephant is a sort of semi-domesticated beast of
+burden, like the camel and the ox. Yet the Indian elephant is about as
+much like his African brother as a tomcat is like a tiger.
+
+[Photograph: The Hyenas Had Feasted Well]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Great Stretches of Dense
+Forest]
+
+[Drawing: _Being Killed by an Elephant Is a Very Mussy Death_]
+
+Many African hunters consider elephant hunting more dangerous than lion,
+rhino, or buffalo hunting, any one of which can hardly be called an
+indoor sport. These are the four animals that are classed as "royal
+game" in game law parlance, and each one when aroused is sufficiently
+diverting to dispel any lassitude produced by the climate. It is wakeful
+sport--hunting these four kinds of game--and in my experience elephant
+hunting is the "most wakefullest" of them all.
+
+In my several months of African hunting I had four different encounters
+with elephants. The first two were on Mount Kenia and the last two were
+on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, near where it merges into the lower slopes
+of Mount Elgon. The first and the fourth experiences were terrifying
+ones, never to be forgotten. An Englishman, if he were to describe them,
+would say "they were rather nasty, you know," which indicates how really
+serious they were. The second and the third experiences were
+interesting, but not particularly dangerous.
+
+Mount Kenia is a great motherly mountain that spreads over an immense
+area and raises its snow-capped peaks over eighteen thousand feet above
+the equator. The lower slopes are as beautiful as a park and are covered
+with the fields and the herds of the prosperous Kikuyus and other
+tribes. Scores of native villages of varying sizes are picturesquely
+planted among the banana groves and wooded valleys on this lower slope,
+each with its local chief, or sultan, and each tribe with its head
+sultan.
+
+In a day's "trek" one meets many sultans with their more or less naked
+retinues, and every one of them spits on his hand, presses it to his
+forehead, and shakes hands with you. It is the form of greeting among
+the Kikuyus, and, in my opinion, might be improved. These people lead a
+happy pastoral life amid surroundings of exceptional beauty. Above the
+cultivated _shambas_, or fields of sweet potatoes and tobacco and sugar
+and groves of bananas, comes a strip of low bush country. It is a mile
+or two wide, scarcely ten feet high, and so dense that nothing but an
+elephant could force its way through the walls of vegetation. Most of
+the bushes are blackberry and are thorny.
+
+[Drawing: _Following the Trail_]
+
+The elephants in their centuries of travel about the slopes have made
+trails through this dense bush, and it is only by following these trails
+that one can reach the upper heights of the mountain. Above the bush
+belt comes the great forest belt, sublimely grand in its hugeness and
+beauty, and above this belt comes the encircling band of bamboo forest
+that reaches up to the timber line. There are probably five hundred
+thousand acres of forest country in which the Kenia elephant may live
+and wander and bring up his children. He has made trails that weave and
+wind through the twilight shades of the forest, and the only ways in
+which a man may penetrate to his haunts are by these ancient trails.
+Mount Kenia, as seen from afar, looks soft and green and easy to stroll
+up, but no man unguided could ever find his way out if once lost in the
+labyrinth of trails that criss-cross in the forest.
+
+For many years the elephants of Kenia have been practically secure from
+the white hunter with his high-powered rifles. Warfare between the
+native tribes on the slopes has been so constant that it was not until
+three or four years ago that it was considered reasonably safe for the
+government to allow hunting parties to invade the south side of the
+mountain. Prior to that time the elephant's most formidable enemies were
+the native hunter, who fought with poisoned spears and built deep pits
+in the trails, pits cleverly concealed with thin strips of bamboo and
+dried leaves, and the ivory hunting poachers. In 1906 the government
+granted permission to Mr. Akeley to enter this hitherto closed district
+to secure specimens for the Field Museum, and even then there was only a
+narrow strip that was free from tribal warfare. It was at that time that
+his party secured seven splendid tuskers, one of which, a
+one-hundred-fifteen-pound tusker shot by Mrs. Akeley, was the largest
+ever killed on Mount Kenia. And it was to this district that Mr. Akeley
+led our _safari_ late in October to try again for elephants on the old
+familiar stamping ground. We pitched our camp in a lovely spot where one
+of his camps had stood three years before, just at the edge of the thick
+bush and on the upper edge of the _shambas_. News travels quickly in
+this country, and in a short time many of his old Kikuyu friends were at
+our camping place. One or two of the old guides were on hand to lead the
+way into elephant haunts and the natives near our camp reported that the
+elephants had been coming down into their fields during the last few
+days. Some had been heard only the day before. So the prospects looked
+most promising, and we started on a little hunt the first afternoon
+after arriving in camp.
+
+[Drawing: _The Old Wanderobo Guide_]
+
+We took one tent and about twenty porters, for when one starts on an
+elephant trail there is no telling how long he will be gone or where he
+may be led. We expected that we would have to climb up through the strip
+of underbrush, and perhaps even as far up as the bamboos, in which event
+we might be gone two or three days. In addition to the porters we had
+our gunbearers and a couple of native guides. One of these was an old
+Wanderobo, or man of the forest, who had spent his life in the solitudes
+of the mountain and was probably more familiar with the trails than any
+other man. He wore a single piece of skin thrown over his shoulders and
+carried a big poisoned elephant spear with a barb of iron that remains
+in the elephant when driven in by the weight of the heavy wooden shaft.
+The barb was now covered with a protective binding of leaves. He led the
+way, silent and mild-eyed and very naked, and the curious little
+skin-tight cap that he wore made him look like an old woman. As we
+proceeded, other natives attached themselves to us as guides, so that by
+the time we were out half an hour there were four or five savages in the
+van.
+
+[Photograph: He Was a Very Important Sultan]
+
+[Photograph: Saying Good-bye to Colonel Roosevelt]
+
+[Photograph: A Visiting Delegation of Kikuyus]
+
+No words can convey to the imagination the density of that first strip
+of bush. It was like walking between solid walls of vegetation, matted
+and tangled and bright with half-ripened blackberries. The walls were
+too high to see over except as occasionally we could catch glimpses of
+tree-tops somewhere ahead. We wound in and out along the tortuous path,
+and it was also torture-ous, for the thorn bushes scratched our hands
+and faces and even sent their stickers through the cloth into our knees.
+The effect on the barelegged porters was doubtless much worse.
+
+After a couple of hours of marching in those canons of vegetation we
+entered the lower edge of the forest and left the underbrush behind. We
+soon struck a fairly fresh elephant trail and for an hour wound in and
+out among the trees, stumbling over "monkey ropes" and gingerly avoiding
+old elephant pits. There were dozens of these, and if it had not been
+for the fact that our old guide carefully piloted us past them I'm
+certain more than one of us would have plunged down on to the sharpened
+stakes at the bottom. Some of the traps were so cleverly concealed that
+only a Wanderobo could detect them. In places the forest was like the
+stately aisles of a great shadowy cathedral, with giant cedars and
+camphor-wood trees rising in towering columns high above where the
+graceful festoons of liana and moss imparted an imposing scene of
+vastness and tropical beauty. In such places the ground was clean and
+springy to the footfall and the impression of a splendid solitude was
+such as one feels in a great deserted cathedral. At times we crossed
+matted and snaky-looking little streams that trickled through the
+decaying vegetation, where the feet of countless elephants had worn deep
+holes far down in the mud. Then, after long and circuitous marching, we
+would find ourselves traversing spots where we had been an hour before.
+
+[Drawing: _Elephant Pits_]
+
+The elephant apparently moves about without much definition of purpose,
+at least when he is idling away his time, and the trail we were
+following led in all directions like a mystic maze. At this time I was
+hopelessly lost, and if left alone could probably never have found my
+way out again. So we quickened our steps lest the guides should get too
+far ahead of us. In those cool depths of the forest, into which only
+occasional shafts of sunlight filtered, the air was cold and damp, so
+much so that even the old Wanderobo got cold. It made me cold to look at
+his thin, old bare legs, but then I suppose his legs were as much
+accustomed to exposure as my hands were, and it's all a matter of
+getting used to it.
+
+Our porters, especially those that were most heavily loaded, were
+falling behind and there was grave danger of losing them. In fact, a
+little later we did lose them. The trail became fresher and, to my
+dismay, led downward again and into that hopeless mass of underbrush
+which at this point extended some distance into the lower levels of the
+forest. We could not see in any direction more than twenty-five
+feet--except above. If our lives had depended on it we could not have
+penetrated the dense matted barriers of vegetation on each side of the
+narrow trail. The bare thought of meeting an elephant in such a place
+sent a cold chill down the back. If he happened to be coming toward us
+our only hope was in killing him before he could charge twenty-five
+feet, and, if we did kill him, to avoid being crushed by his body as it
+plunged forward. Without question it was the worst place in the world to
+encounter an elephant. And I prayed that we might get into more open
+forest before we came up with the ones we were trailing. You can't
+imagine how earnestly we all joined in that prayer.
+
+It was at this unpropitious moment that we heard--startlingly near--the
+sharp crash of a tusk against a tree somewhere just ahead. It was a most
+unwelcome sound. There was no way of determining where the elephant was,
+for we were hemmed in by solid walls of bush and could not have seen an
+elephant ten feet on either side of the narrow trail. We also didn't
+know whether he was coming or going or whether he was on our trail or
+some other one of the maze of trails.
+
+We quickly prepared for the worst. With our three heavy guns we crouched
+in the trail, waiting for the huge bulk of an elephant to loom up before
+us. Then came another thunderous crash to our right--and it seemed
+scarcely fifty yards away. Then a shrill squeal of a startled elephant
+off to our left and still another to the rear. Some elephants had
+evidently just caught our scent, and if the rest of the elephants became
+alarmed and started a stampede through the bush the situation would
+become extremely irksome for a man of quiet-loving tendencies. The
+thought of elephants charging down those narrow trails, perhaps from two
+directions at once, was one that started a copious flow of cold
+perspiration. We waited for several years of intense apprehension. There
+was absolute silence. The elephants also were evidently awaiting further
+developments.
+
+[Photograph: A Clearing in the Forest]
+
+[Photograph: A Kikuyu "Cotillion"]
+
+[Photograph: Kikuyu Women Flailing Grain]
+
+Then we edged slowly onward along the trail, approaching each turning
+with extreme caution and then edging on to the next. Somewhere ahead and
+on two sides of us there were real, live, wild elephants that probably
+were not in a mood to welcome visitors from Chicago. How near they were
+we didn't know--except that the sounds had come from very near,
+certainly not more than a hundred yards--and we hoped that we might go
+safely forward to where the bush would be thin enough to allow us to see
+our surroundings. But there was no clearing. Several times a crash of
+underbrush either ahead or to one side brought us to anxious attention
+with fingers at the trigger guards. At last, after what seemed to be
+hours of nervous tension, we came to a crossing of trails, down which we
+could see in four directions thirty or forty feet. A large tree grew
+near the intersection of the trails, and here we waited within reach of
+its friendly protection. It was much more reassuring than to stand
+poised in a narrow trail with no possibility of sidestepping a charge.
+We waited at the crossing for further sounds of the elephants--waited
+for some time with rifles ready and then gradually relaxed our taut
+nerves. A line of porters with their burdens were huddled in one of the
+trails awaiting developments. I took a picture of the situation and had
+stood my rifle against the tree, and sat down to whisper the situation
+over. All immediate danger seemed to have passed. It seemed to, but it
+hadn't.
+
+[Drawing: _The Porters Came Down the Trail_]
+
+Like a sudden unexpected explosion of a thirteen-inch gun there was a
+thundering crash in the bushes behind the porters, then a perfect
+avalanche of terrified porters, a dropping of bundles, a wild dash for
+the protection of the tree, and a bunch of the most startled white men
+ever seen on Mount Kenia. I reached the tree in two jumps, and three
+would have been a good record. The crashing of bushes and small trees at
+our elbows marked the course of a frenzied or frightened elephant, and
+to our intense relief the sounds diminished as the animal receded. I
+don't think I was ever so frightened in my life. But I had company. I
+didn't monopolize all the fright that was used in those few seconds of
+terror.
+
+We then decided that there was no sane excuse for hunting elephants
+under such conditions. We at least demanded that we ought to see what we
+were hunting rather than blindly stumble through dense bush with
+elephants all around us. So we beat a masterly retreat, not without two
+more serious threats from the hidden elephants. A boy was sent up a tree
+to try to locate the elephants, but even up there it was impossible to
+distinguish anything in the mass of vegetation around. We fired guns to
+frighten away the animals, but at each report there was only a restless
+rustle in the brush that said that they were still there and waiting,
+perhaps as badly scared as we were.
+
+My second elephant experience came the next day.
+
+We started forth again, with a single tent, our guides and gunbearers, a
+cook and a couple of tent boys and twenty porters. This time we politely
+ignored all elephant trails in the dense bush and pushed on through the
+forest. Here it was infinitely better, for one could see some distance
+in all directions. We climbed steadily for a couple of thousand feet,
+always in forest so wild and grand and beautiful as to exceed all dreams
+of what an African forest could be. It more than fulfilled the
+preconceptions of a tropical forest such as you see described in stories
+of the Congo and the Amazon.
+
+The air was cold in the shadows, but pleasant in the little open glades
+that occasionally spread out before us. Once or twice in the heart of
+that overwhelming forest we found little circular clearings so devoid of
+trees as to seem like artificial clearings. Once we found the skull of
+an elephant and scores of times we narrowly escaped the deep elephant
+traps that lay in our paths. Many times we saw evidences of the giant
+forest pig that lives on Mount Kenia and has only once or twice been
+killed by a white man. Sometimes we came to deep ravines with sides that
+led for a hundred feet almost perpendicularly through tangles of
+creepers and bogs of rotted vegetation.
+
+We dragged ourselves up by clinging to vines and monkey ropes. On all
+sides was a solitude so vast as almost to overpower the senses. The
+sounds of bird life seemed only to intensify the effect of solitude.
+Once in a while we came upon evidences of human habitation, little huts
+of twigs and leaves, where the Wanderobo, or man of the forest, lived
+and hunted. Up in some of the trees were thin cylindrical wooden honey
+pots, some of them ages old and some comparatively new. And in the lower
+levels of the forest we saw where the Kikuyu women had come up for
+firewood. For some strange reason the elephants are not afraid of the
+native women and will not be disturbed by the sight of one of them.
+After seeing the women I am not surprised that they feel that way about
+it, but I don't see how they can tell the women from the men. Possibly
+because they know that only the women do such manual labor as to carry
+wood.
+
+In the afternoon we reached the bamboos which lie above the forest belt.
+Here the ground is clean and heavily carpeted with dry bamboo leaves.
+The bamboos grow close together, all seemingly of the same size, and are
+pervaded with a cool, greenish shadow that is almost sunny in comparison
+with the deep, solemn shades of the great forest.
+
+Then we struck a trail. The old Wanderobo guide said it was only an hour
+or so old and that we should soon overtake the elephant. It was
+evidently only one elephant and not a large one. It is fascinating to
+watch an experienced elephant hunter and to see how eloquent the trail
+is to him. A broken twig means something, the blades of grass turned a
+certain way will distinguish the fresh trail from the old one, the
+footprints in the soft earth, the droppings--all tell a definite story
+to him, and he knows when he is drawing down upon his quarry. As we
+proceeded his movements became slower and more cautious, and the
+plodding drudgery of following an elephant trail gave way to suppressed
+excitement.
+
+[Drawing: _It Looked Like the Rear Elevation of a Barn_]
+
+Slower and slower he went, and finally he indicated that only the
+gunbearers and ourselves should continue. The porters were left behind,
+and in single file we moved on tiptoe along the trail. Then he stopped
+and by his attitude said that the quest was ended. The elephant was
+there. One by one we edged forward, and there, thirty yards away, partly
+hidden by slender bamboos, stood a motionless elephant. He seemed to be
+the biggest one I had ever seen. He was quartering, head away from us,
+and we could not see his tusks. If they were big, we were to shoot; if
+not, we were to let him alone. As we watched and waited for his head to
+turn we noticed that his ears began to wave slowly back and forth, like
+the gills of a fish as it breathes. The head slowly and almost
+imperceptibly turned, and Akeley signaled me to shoot. From where I
+stood I could not see the tusks at first, but as his head turned more I
+saw the great white shafts of ivory. The visible ivory was evidently
+about four feet long, and indicated that he carried forty or fifty
+pounds of ivory. Then, quicker than a wink, the great dark mass was
+galvanized into motion. He darted forward, crashing through the bamboo
+as though it had been a bed of reeds, and in five seconds had
+disappeared. For some moments we heard his great form crashing away,
+farther and farther, until it finally died out in the distance.
+
+It was the first wild elephant I had ever seen, and it is photographed
+on my memory so vividly as never to be forgotten. I was more than half
+glad that I had not shot and that he had got away unharmed.
+
+That night we camped in a little circular clearing which the Akeleys
+called "Tembo Circus," for it was near this same clearing that one of
+their large elephants had been killed three years before, and in the
+clearing the skin had been prepared for preservation. All about us
+stretched the vast forest, full of strange night sounds and spectral in
+the darkness. In the morning we awoke in a dense cloud and did not break
+camp until afternoon. Our Kikuyu and Wanderobo guides were sent out with
+promises of liberal backsheesh to find fresh trails, but they returned
+with unfavorable reports, so we marched back to the main camp again.
+
+Thus ended our Kenia elephant experience, for a letter from Colonel
+Roosevelt, asking Mr. Akeley if he could come to Nairobi for a
+conference on their elephant group, led to our departure from the Mount
+Kenia country.
+
+The other two elephant experiences were much more spectacular and
+perhaps are worthy of a separate story.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+NINE DAYS WITHOUT SEEING AN ELEPHANT. THE ROOSEVELT PARTY DEPARTS AND WE
+MARCH FOR THE MOUNTAINS ON OUR BIG ELEPHANT HUNT. THE POLICEMAN OF THE
+PLAINS
+
+
+The Mount Elgon elephants have a very bad reputation. The district is
+remote from government protection and for years the herds have been the
+prey of Swahili and Arab ivory hunters, as well as poachers of all sorts
+who have come over the Uganda border or down from the savage Turkana and
+Suk countries on the north. As a natural consequence of this
+unrestricted poaching the herds have been hunted and harassed so much
+that most of the large bull elephants with big ivory have been killed,
+leaving for the greater part big herds of cows and young elephants made
+savage and vicious by their persecution. Elephant hunters who have
+conscientiously hunted the district bring in reports of having seen
+herds of several hundred elephants, most of which were cows and calves,
+and of having seen no bulls of large size.
+
+The government game license permits the holder to kill two elephants,
+the ivory of each to be at least sixty pounds. This means a fairly large
+elephant and may be either a bull or a cow. The cow ivory, however,
+rarely reaches that weight and consequently the bulls are the ones the
+hunters are after and the ones that have gradually been so greatly
+reduced in numbers. The elephants of this district roam the slopes of
+the mountains and often make long swinging trips out in the broad
+stretches of the Guas Ngishu Plateau to the eastward, in all a district
+probably fifty miles wide by sixty or seventy miles long.
+
+The hunters who invade this section usually march north from the
+railroad at a point near Victoria Nyanza, turn westward at a little
+settlement called Sergoi, and continue in that direction until they
+reach the Nzoia River. Naturally, these names will mean nothing to one
+not familiar with the country, but perhaps by saying that the trip means
+at least ten days of steady marching in a remote and unsettled country,
+far from sources of supplies, I will be able to convey a faint idea of
+how hard it is to reach the elephant country.
+
+Our purpose in making this long trip of ten weeks or more was to try for
+black-maned lion on the high plateau and to collect elephants for the
+group that Mr. Akeley is preparing for the American Museum of Natural
+History. The government gave him a special permit to collect such
+elephants as he would require, two cows, a calf, a young bull, and, if
+possible, two large bulls. One or more of these were to be killed by
+Colonel Roosevelt and one by myself. It seemed promising that the cows,
+calf, and young bull could be got on Mount Elgon, but the likelihood of
+getting the big bulls was far from encouraging. Lieutenant-Governor
+Jackson thought we might be successful if we directed our efforts to the
+southeastern slopes of the mountain and avoided the northeastern slopes
+along the River Turkwel, which had been hunted a good deal by sportsmen
+and poachers. If we were unable to get the big bulls on Elgon it might
+be necessary to make a special trip into Uganda for them. However, we
+determined to try, and try we did, through eight weeks of hard work and
+wonderful experiences in that remote district.
+
+[Photograph: A Kikuyu Spearman]
+
+[Photograph: The Porters Like Elephant Meat]
+
+[Photograph: My Masai Sais and Gunbearers]
+
+At Sergoi, the very outpost of crude civilization, we were warned not to
+go up the southern side of the mountain on account of the natives that
+live there. We were told that they were inclined to be troublesome. We
+met Captain Ashton and Captain Black coming out after six weeks on the
+northern slopes. They reported seeing big herds, but mostly cows and
+calves. At Sergoi we also received word from Colonel Roosevelt and at
+once marched to the Nzoia River, where we met him.
+
+During our march we saw no elephants, but as we neared the river there
+were fresh signs of elephant along the trail. It is strikingly
+indicative of the "Roosevelt luck" that he saw, on the morning we met
+him, the only elephants that he had seen in the district, and that
+within twenty-four hours from that time he had killed three elephants
+and Kermit one. Of this number two cows killed by Colonel Roosevelt were
+satisfactory for the group, and also the calf killed by his son, Kermit.
+This left one young bull and two large bulls still to be secured, and to
+that end we addressed our efforts during the succeeding weeks.
+
+For nine days we hunted the Nzoia River region, but without seeing an
+elephant. There were kongoni, zebra, topi, waterbuck, wart-hogs,
+reedbuck, oribi, eland, and Uganda cob, but scour the country as we
+would, we saw no sign of elephant except the broad trails in the grass
+and the countless evidences that they had been in the region some time
+before. The country was beautiful and wholesome. There was lots of game
+for our table, from the most delicious grouse to the oribi, whose meat
+is the tenderest I have ever eaten. There were ducks and geese and
+Kavirondo crane; and sometimes eland, as fine in flavor as that of the
+prize steer of the fat-stock show. Then there were reedbuck and cob,
+both of which are very good to eat. So our tins of camp pie and kippered
+herring and ox tongue remained unopened and we lived as we never had
+before.
+
+When the day's hunt was over the sun in a splendid effort painted such
+sublime sunsets above Mount Elgon as I had never dreamed of. And the
+music of hundreds of African birds along the river's edge greeted us
+with the cool, delightful dawn. Purely from an aesthetic standpoint, our
+days on the Nzoia were ones never to be forgotten, while from the
+standpoint of the man who loves to see wild game and doesn't care much
+about killing it, the bright, clear days on the Nzoia were memorable
+ones. The Roosevelt party went its way back to civilization; the
+Spaniards, De la Huerta and the Duke of Penaranda, came and made a
+flying trip up the mountain for elephant, then returned and went their
+way. The young Baron Rothschild came on to the plateau for a couple of
+weeks and then disappeared. And still we lingered on, happy, healthy,
+generally hungry, and intoxicated with the languorous murmur of Africa.
+
+[Drawing: _With Sharp Stakes in Them_]
+
+Then we marched for the mountain on our big elephant hunt. The details
+of those twelve days of adventuring in districts, some of which were
+probably never traversed before by white men, our experiences with the
+natives, our climb up the side of the mountain and our camp in the
+crater; our icy mornings, our ascent of the highest peak, and our
+explorations of the ancient homes of the cave-dwellers--all are part of
+a remarkable series of events that have nothing to do with an elephant
+story. In the forests we saw numberless old elephant pits, and on the
+grassy slopes there were mazes of elephants' trails, some so big that
+hundreds of elephants must have moved along them. But we saw no
+elephants. We scanned the hills for miles and tramped for days in ideal
+elephant country, but our quest was all in vain. Then our food supplies
+ran low, our last bullock was killed, and we hurried back to the base
+camp on the river, a hungry, tired band of a hundred and twenty men.
+
+The matter of provisioning a large number of porters far from the
+railroad is a serious one. In addition to carrying the _safari_ outfit,
+the porters must carry their _posho_, or cornmeal ration, and it is
+impossible for them to carry more than a limited number of days'
+rations. So the farther one gets from the base of supplies the more
+difficult it is to move, and a relay system must be employed. Porters
+must be sent back for food, often six or eight days; or else a bullock
+wagon must be used for that purpose. In our _safari_ we used two wagons,
+drawn by thirty oxen, to supplement the porters in keeping up food
+supplies, and even by so doing there were times when rations ran low. In
+such times we would shoot game for them, either kongoni or zebra, both
+of which are considered great delicacies by the black man.
+
+However, this is not telling about my memorable elephant experiences in
+the Guas Ngishu Plateau.
+
+We got back to the Nzoia River on December third. On the fifteenth,
+after many more unsuccessful attempts to get in touch with a herd, Mr.
+Akeley and I resolved to try the mountain again. We thought that perhaps
+the elephants might have moved northward along the eastern slope, and so
+we thought we'd push clear up to the Turkwel River and find out beyond
+question. We outfitted for an eight days' march, carried only one tent
+and a small number of good porters. Only the absolute necessaries were
+taken, for we expected to move fast and hard. The first day we marched
+eight hours, crossed the Nzoia River, and by a curious chance at once
+struck a fresh trail which was diagnosed as being only a few hours old.
+The bark torn from trees was fresh and still moist; the leaves of the
+branches that had been broken off as the elephants fed along the way
+were still unwithered, and the flowers that had been crushed down by the
+great feet of the herd had lost little of their freshness and fragrance.
+
+The trail led us first in one direction, then in another; sometimes it
+was a big trail that plowed through the long grass like a river, with
+little tributaries branching in and out where the individual members of
+the herd had swerved out of the main channel to feed by the way. And
+sometimes when all the herd were feeding, the main trail disappeared, to
+be replaced by a maze of lesser trails leading in all directions. But by
+the skilful tracking of our gunbearers the main trail would be found
+again some distance onward. We followed the trail for hours, and then,
+night coming on, we went into camp near a small stream, choked with
+luxuriant vegetation. Akeley thought he heard a faint squeal of an
+elephant far off, and while the porters made camp we went on for a mile
+or so to investigate. But no further sounds indicated the proximity of
+the herd.
+
+Early the next morning we took up the trail again, and in less than an
+hour my Masai sais pointed off to a distant slope a couple of miles
+away, where a black line appeared. It looked like an outcropping of
+rock. Akeley looked at it and exclaimed, "By George, I believe he's got
+them!" and a moment later, after he had directed his glasses on the
+distant spot, he said briskly, "That's right, they're over there." And
+so, for the first time, after having scanned suspicious-looking spots in
+the landscape for weeks and always with disappointment, I saw a herd of
+real live elephants. To the naked eye they looked more like little
+shifting black beetles than anything else, but in the glasses they were
+plainly revealed with swaying bodies and flapping ears and swinging
+trunks.
+
+In elephant hunting the first important thing to consider is the wind,
+for the elephant is very keen-scented and is quick to detect a breath of
+danger in the breeze. Fortunately we had seen them in time. If we had
+gone ahead a few hundred yards they would have got our wind and gone
+away in alarm, but this had not occurred. We could see that they were
+feeding quietly and without the slightest evidence of uneasiness.
+
+[Photograph: Some Kikuyu Belles]
+
+[Photograph: Wanderobo Guides]
+
+We left our horses and the porters under a big tree and told the latter
+to come on if they heard any firing; otherwise, they were to await our
+return. Then, with only our gunbearers and a man carrying Akeley's large
+camera, we circled in a wide detour until we were safely behind the
+elephants. The wind continued favorable, and we cautiously approached
+the brow of a hill near where we had last seen them. They had
+disappeared, but their trail was as easy to follow as an open road.
+Before reaching the brow of the next hill one of the gunbearers was sent
+up a tree to reconnoiter the country beyond.
+
+"_Hapa_," he whispered, as he carefully climbed down and indicated with
+his hand that they were near. Again we swung in a wide circle and came
+over the brow of the next hill. There, four or five hundred yards away,
+was the herd of elephants, standing idly under the low trees that
+studded the opposite slope. There were between forty and fifty of them,
+and from the number of _totos_, or calves, we assumed that many of the
+big ones were cows. We studied the herd for some minutes, estimating the
+ivory and trying in vain to pick out the bulls. There is very little
+difference between the appearance of a cow and a bull elephant when the
+latter has only moderate-sized tusks. Usually the tusks of the male are
+heavier and thicker, but except for this distinction there is very
+little noticeable difference between the two. Of course, an elephant
+with gigantic tusks is at once known to be a bull, but if he has small
+tusks it is a matter of considerable guesswork.
+
+[Drawing: _Two Kongoni on Guard_]
+
+We could not tell which ones of this herd were bulls, but assumed that
+there must surely be several small-sized or young bulls among them. We
+decided to go nearer, knowing that the elephant's eyesight is very poor,
+and with such a favoring wind his sense of smell was useless. It seemed
+amazing that they did not see us as we walked up the slope toward them.
+When a couple of hundred yards away we climbed a tree to study them some
+more. They were in three separate groups, each of which was clustered
+sleepy and motionless under the trees. They had ceased feeding and had
+evidently laid up for their midday rest, although the hour was hardly
+ten in the morning.
+
+From our "observation tower" in the tree we studied the three groups as
+well as we could. So far as we could judge there were at least three
+bulls of medium size, but as we looked those three lazily moved off
+toward the group on the extreme left. At that time we were within about
+a hundred yards of the nearest group with the wind still favorable, and
+except for one thing we might easily have crept up through the grass to
+within thirty or forty yards. Directly between us and the elephants were
+two kongoni, one lying down and the other alert and erect.
+
+[Drawing: _The Policemen of the Plains_]
+
+The kongoni is the policeman of the plains. He is the self-appointed
+guardian of all the other animals, and for some strange, unselfish
+reason, he always does sentinel duty for the others. His eyes are so
+keen that he sees your hat when you appear over the horizon two miles
+away, and from that moment he never loses sight of you. If you approach
+too near he whistles shrilly, and every other animal within several
+hundred yards is on the alert and apprehensive. The kongoni often risks
+his own life to warn other herds of animals of the approach of danger,
+and if I were going to write an animal story I'd use the kongoni as my
+hero. The hunters hate him for the trouble he gives them, but a
+fair-minded man can not help but recognize the heroic, self-sacrificing
+qualities of the big, awkward, vigilant antelope. Why these two
+sentinels had not seen us is still and always will be a mystery, but it
+is certain that they had not.
+
+At the same time we knew that any attempt to approach nearer would alarm
+them and they in turn would sound the shrill tocsin of warning to the
+unsuspecting elephant herd, in which event we might have to track the
+elephants for miles until they settled down again. So we cautiously
+climbed down, retreated below the edge of the hill, and worked our way
+up in the lee of the group farthest to our left in the expectation of
+finding the three bulls. From tree to tree, and in the protection of
+large ant-hills, we moved forward until we were less than fifty yards
+from the elephants. Then we studied them again, but could not locate the
+bulls.
+
+Probably at this time something may have occurred to make the elephants
+nervous. Perhaps the warning cry of a bird or the suspicious rustling of
+our footsteps in the tall grass, but at any rate the herd began to move
+slowly away. Two of the larger groups marched solemnly down the slope
+away from us and the other disappeared among the low scrub trees to our
+right. We followed the two larger groups and soon were again within a
+few yards of them. An ant-hill four or five feet high gave us some
+protection, and over the top of this we watched the enormous animals as
+they stood under the trees ahead of us. While watching these two large
+groups we forgot about the one that had disappeared to the right.
+
+Suddenly one of the gunbearers whispered a warning and we turned to see
+this group only a few yards from us and bearing directly down toward the
+ant-hill where we crouched in the grass. They had not yet seen us, but
+it seemed a miracle that they did not. If one of us had moved in the
+slightest degree they would have charged into us with irresistible
+force. We held our guns and our breath while these big animals, by a
+most fortunate chance, passed by us to the windward of the ant-hill, not
+more than thirty feet away. If they had passed to the leeward side they
+would have got our wind and trouble would have been unavoidable. I took
+a surreptitious snap-shot of them after they had passed by, and for the
+first time in some minutes took a long breath.
+
+Then we circled the herd again and came up to them. They were now
+thoroughly uneasy. They knew that some invisible hostile influence was
+abroad in the land, but they could not locate in which direction it lay.
+We saw the sensitive trunks feeling for the scent and saw the big ears
+moving uneasily back and forth. One large cow with a broken tusk was
+facing us, vaguely conscious that danger lay in that direction. And
+then, by some code of signals known only to the elephant world, the
+greater number of elephants moved off down the slope and up the opposite
+slope. Only the big, aggressive cow and four or five smaller animals
+remained behind as a rear-guard. She stood as she had stood for some
+moments, gazing directly at us and nervously waving her ears and trunk.
+
+[Drawing: _The Rear-guard_]
+
+Akeley climbed to the top of an ant-hill and made some photographs
+showing the big cow and her companions in the foreground, while off on
+the neighboring hillside three distinct groups of elephants were in
+view. The latter were thoroughly alarmed and moved away very swiftly for
+some distance and then came to a pause. The big cow and her attendants
+then moved off, feeling that the retreat had been successfully effected.
+Once more we followed them and came up to them, and then once more we
+were flanked by a number of elephants that had previously disappeared
+over the hill. They had swung around and were returning directly toward
+where we stood, unsuspecting.
+
+We barely had time to fall back to some small bushes, where we waited
+while the flanking party approached. They came almost toward us, and
+when only about fifty feet away I ventured a photograph, feeling that,
+if successful, it would be the closest picture ever made of a herd of
+wild elephants. I used a Verascope, a small stereoscopic French machine
+whose "click" is almost noiseless. The elephants advanced and we huddled
+together with rifles ready in the patch of bushes. It seemed a certainty
+that they would charge, and that if our bullets could not turn them we
+would be completely annihilated. But as yet there was no sign that they
+saw us, or, if they did, they could not distinguish our motionless forms
+from the foliage of the scrub.
+
+At last, the foremost elephant, barely thirty feet from us, came to the
+trail in the grass by which we had retreated when we first saw them. The
+trunk, sweeping ahead of it as if feeling for the scent of danger,
+paused an instant as it reached the trail and then the animal drew back
+sharply as though stung. Then it whirled about and the herd went
+crashing away through the sparse undergrowth. It was a time of the
+utmost nervous tension, and I don't believe the human system could
+undergo a prolonged strain of that severity.
+
+[Drawing: _It Started Back as Though Stung_]
+
+During all this time we had not succeeded in positively locating a bull
+elephant. Of all the forty-four elephants that were visible at any one
+time, there was not one that we could feel safe in identifying as the
+elephant needed for the group. Three more times we stalked the herd to
+very close range, but they were now so restless that nothing could be
+ascertained. So finally we decided to get ahead of them and watch them
+as they passed us, but just as we had reached a point where they were
+approaching, the two kongoni gave a shrill alarm and the entire herd
+made off in tremendous haste. Later, on our way back to camp, we came up
+with one group of six or seven, but they seemed too angry and aggressive
+to take needless chances with, so we watched them a while and then left
+them behind.
+
+During all that day we were with the herd nearly five hours, five hours
+of intense nervous strain, during which time there was never a moment
+when we were not in some danger of discovery. But in spite of the
+aggressive bearing of some of them at one time or another, I had the
+feeling that the elephants would run away from us the instant they
+definitely determined where we were. And it was while laboring under
+this impression that I met my second Mount Elgon herd of elephants and
+learned by bitter experience that the impression was wholly false. But
+that is still another story, the story of being charged five times in
+one day by angry elephants, and how I killed a bull elephant for the
+Akeley group.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+"'TWAS THE DAY BEFORE CHRISTMAS." PHOTOGRAPHING A CHARGING ELEPHANT.
+CORNERING A WOUNDED ELEPHANT IN A RIVER JUNGLE GROWTH. A THRILLING
+CHARGE. HASSAN'S COURAGE.
+
+
+On the night of December the twenty-third I sat out in a boma
+watching for lions. None came and at the first crack of dawn my two
+gunbearers and I crawled out of the tangled mass of thorn branches, and
+prepared to return to camp two miles away. We were expecting my sais to
+arrive with my horse soon after daybreak, and while waiting for him to
+come, and for my gunbearers to get the blankets tied up, I went across
+to a neighboring swamp in the hope of getting a bushbuck. I was about
+three hundred yards from the boma when my attention was drawn to a
+movement in the trees about a quarter of a mile away. I looked and saw
+what I first thought was a herd of zebras coming toward me. They looked
+dark against the faint light of early dawn and seemed surprisingly big.
+Then I realized! They were elephants! I had only my little gun and my
+big double-barreled cordite was at the boma, three hundred yards away.
+Breathlessly I ran for it, fearing that the elephants might cut me off
+before I could reach it. There seemed to be from seven to ten of them,
+but they soon disappeared in the trees, going at a fast swinging walk.
+Hassan, my first gunbearer, stopped to slip a couple of solid shells in
+the gun while I ran to the top of a hill in the hope of catching sight
+of the herd. But they had disappeared entirely. We soon found the trail
+strongly marked in the dew-covered grass. My sais then appeared with my
+horse. He had seen two elephants and they had taken alarm at his scent
+and were rapidly fleeing. So I galloped back to camp to tell the rest of
+the party and to prepare for a systematic pursuit.
+
+After breakfast, with Akeley, Stephenson, Clark and our gunbearers, the
+trail was again picked up where I had left it. It was then a little past
+nine and the elephants had two hours' start of us. Their trail indicated
+that they were moving fast and so we prepared for a long chase. For
+nearly two hours we followed, Akeley tracking with remarkable precision.
+Sometimes the trail was faint and merged with older trails, but by
+looking carefully the fresh trail was kept. Soon we began to see newly
+broken branches from the trees which indicated that the elephants were
+getting quieted down and were beginning to feed. It must have been about
+eleven o'clock when Stephenson saw the herd far across on another slope.
+There were two of the animals distinctly visible and another partly
+visible. They were resting under some of the many acacia trees that
+dappled the slope of the hill. We stopped to examine them with our
+glasses. One seemed to have no tusks, but we finally saw that it had
+very small ones. The other and larger one had one good tusk and one that
+was broken off. After about twenty minutes we left our horses and with
+only our gunbearers moved across toward them, thinking that there must
+be others that we had not yet seen. The wind was bad, sometimes sweeping
+up in our direction through the depression between the two slopes and a
+moment later coming from another direction. At one time the wind blew
+from us directly toward the elephants and we expected to see them take
+alarm and run away. But they did not. We circled around and approached
+them from a better direction and advanced to within a couple of hundred
+yards without being detected. We then stopped for a conference. If there
+was a young bull I was to kill it for the Akeley group; if there was a
+large bull Stephenson was to kill it for himself; if there were only
+cows we were not to shoot unless absolutely necessary. In this event,
+Akeley was to take his camera, and with "Fred," "Jimmy" Clark, and I as
+escorts with our double-barreled cordite rifles, was to advance until he
+could get a photograph that would show an elephant the full size of the
+plate. If the elephants charged we were to yell and try to turn them
+without shooting; if they came on we were to shoot to hurt, but not to
+kill.
+
+Fred was on one side of "Ake," Jimmy on another, and I on Fred's left.
+Thus we slowly moved toward the elephants. A reedbuck was startled out
+of the grass and noisily ran away, giving the alarm. The elephants began
+feeling in the air with their trunks and their ears began to wave
+uneasily. Finally they turned and seemed about to go away. Then Fred
+saw, a short distance to the right, some more elephants that had
+previously been hidden by the trees. We both whispered to Ake to stop,
+but he either did not hear us on account of his heavy sun hat or else
+was too intent upon the elephants in front to heed.
+
+[Photograph: A Nandi Spearman]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce In the Deep Jungle Growth]
+
+[Photograph: As the Elephant Fell]
+
+"Ake," whispered Fred, "there's a good bull over there with good tusks.
+Wait a minute." But Ake, camera in position, continued to advance and so
+we followed. The elephants, a big cow and a half-grown one, were now
+facing us with ears wide spread. They looked very nasty. I thought they
+would turn and run away and was not uneasy about the outcome. But to my
+great surprise they started toward us, first slowly and then at a rapid
+trot, steadily gaining in swiftness. It was a real charge and we yelled
+to scare them off. The big cow was in the lead and she had not the
+slightest intention of being scared. Her one idea was to annihilate us.
+We raised our rifles and continued to yell, but on she rushed. She was
+only thirty yards away when Jimmy fired, Fred fired, and then I. The
+huge animal sank on her four knees and the half-grown one turned off and
+stopped, confused and angry. Akeley had got a splendid photograph of the
+charging cow and now he took one of the smaller beast before we
+approached the cow. Upon our advance the smaller one ran away but the
+big cow never moved again. She was stone dead. The three bullets had
+struck her, Jimmy's high as she was head on, Fred's between the eye and
+ear as she swung, and mine just behind the orifice of the ear as the
+head was still further swung by the shock of Fred's bullet. The elephant
+rested on her four knees in an upright position, quite lifelike in
+appearance. The small elephant ran off toward those that we had seen on
+our right. I suggested that we immediately follow the herd in the hope
+that a young bull might be found among them. So off we went and in a few
+moments we saw them to our right, apparently returning to where the cow
+had been killed. It is entirely likely that the big broken-tusked cow
+was going back to make trouble for us. Colonel Roosevelt had a similar
+experience with a bull elephant that returned and charged the hunters as
+they were standing about one that they had just killed.
+
+[Drawing: _They Whirled Around_]
+
+As the elephants moved along slowly we paralleled them and studied them
+as well as we could. One was the big cow with the one broken and one
+good tusk. She was leading the group, and was doubtless a vicious
+animal. She was an enormous beast, probably over eleven feet in height.
+Another was the half-grown elephant, then a smaller one, and lastly a
+good-sized elephant with two fairly good tusks. We tried to determine
+the sex of this last one, I hoping that it was a bull, but fearing
+otherwise. Ake thought it was a cow with tusks about twelve or fourteen
+inches long, but the fact that its breasts showed no signs of milk
+fullness led me to hope that it was a young bull, and I determined to
+act on that supposition. I at once advanced with my big gun in
+readiness. The two largest elephants at the same moment whirled around
+and started swiftly toward us. I rested my gun against the side of a
+small tree and after their onward rush had brought them within fifty
+yards I fired as Ake suggested, "just between the eye and ear." The
+animal swerved but did not fall. Akeley and Stephenson fired at the big
+cow and under the shock of their heavy shells she dropped to her knees,
+then sprang up and came on again. Once more they shot and she again went
+down on her knees, but got up, shaking her head and turned a little to
+one side. Stephenson started to shoot her again, but Ake shouted, "Don't
+shoot her again. She's got enough." Mr. Stephenson followed her for some
+distance and decided that she was going to recover, and so came back. In
+the meantime my elephant, with the two smaller ones, was moving off to
+the left, and with my small rifle I fired at its backbone, the only
+vulnerable spot visible. A spurt of dust rose, but the elephant did not
+stop. So, accompanied by Hassan and Sulimani, my two gunbearers, I
+started after the wounded elephant and the two younger ones. The big one
+was moving slowly, as though badly wounded. The wind was bad, so we
+circled around to head them off and in doing so completely lost them.
+Presently we struck their trail and followed them by the blood-stains on
+the grass.
+
+After some minutes we saw them moving along in the tall grass near the
+Nzoia River. Again we swiftly circled to head them off before they could
+cross the river, but when we reached a point where they had last been
+seen they had disappeared in the dense tangle of trees and high reeds
+that grew at the river's edge. We thought they would cross the river, so
+we rushed after them. Suddenly Hassan yelled "Here they come!" and,
+ahead of us, came the large elephant, its head rising from above the sea
+of grass like the bow of a battleship bearing rapidly down upon us. The
+two smaller ones were almost invisible, only the back of one appearing
+above the reeds. We were out in the open and the situation looked
+decidedly dangerous. I hastily drew a bead on the big one's forehead,
+fired, but it didn't stop. There was barely time for us to get out of
+the way. I ran sideways toward a little mound that furnished some
+protection, while Hassan, with a coolness and courage that I both
+admired and envied, stood still until the big elephant was within ten
+feet of him and then leaped to one side as the three beasts swept by
+him, carried onward by the impetus of their mad rush. As the big one
+passed it made a vicious swing at him with its trunk.
+
+[Photograph: Bow On]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Bull Elephant]
+
+[Photograph: Cooking Elephant Meat]
+
+Fortunately the elephants continued in their course and we followed them
+with my big rifle again reloaded and ready. Once more they turned in
+toward the river and were completely swallowed up in the tall reeds. We
+again waded in after them and had gone only a few yards when we once
+more saw the angry head of the big one looming up as it came toward us.
+I fired point-blank at the base of the trunk and the beast stopped
+suddenly. Then it slowly turned and as it was about to disappear in the
+tall elephant grass again I fired at its backbone. The huge bulk
+collapsed and disappeared, buried in the reeds. Hassan yelled that it
+was dead, but we couldn't see for the grass. The situation now was
+perilous in the extreme. The river made a sharp bend at this point like
+an incomplete letter O, with a narrow neck of land through which the
+elephants had passed when I had shot. At the narrow neck it was about a
+hundred feet across while the depth of the "O" was about three hundred
+feet and the width about two hundred and fifty feet. This small
+peninsula was matted with a jungle growth of high grass and reeds six or
+eight feet tall, while the edges of the river were thickly wooded with
+small trees tangled together and interlacing their branches over the
+narrow but deep waters of the Nzoia.
+
+[Drawing: _Awaiting the Charge_]
+
+Down in the jungle depths of this peninsula there was a violent
+commotion among the low branches of these trees, an indication that the
+animal was not dead, but was thrashing madly about as if desperately
+wounded. Hassan said it was the young elephant and that the older one
+was dead, but this could not be determined without pushing on through
+the reeds until we would be almost upon them. This course seemed too
+dangerous to try.
+
+The river at this point was absolutely impassable for animals. The banks
+were ten feet high and perpendicular. The water was perhaps five or six
+feet deep and the width of the swift stream not over twenty or thirty
+feet. The trees had interlaced their roots and branches across the river
+and in the water. No animal, not a tree climber, could possibly cross
+the stream on account of the straight up and down banks.
+
+So after a time we crept along through the grass at the edge of the
+stream until we reached a point probably forty yards from where the
+elephants doubtless were, although quite hidden from our view. There was
+still a tremendous threshing in the low branches of the trees and in
+order to see the animals we had to creep cautiously across the peninsula
+to a point about half-way, where a large, rotten, dead tree stood. This
+gave us cover and from its screen we could see the three elephants, only
+fifteen yards away. The head of the big one was still up and it was
+turned directly at us. It was so close and so big that the effect was
+terrifying.
+
+"_Mkubwa_," whispered Sulimani, and that means "big." So the big
+elephant, instead of being dead, was still alive, with an impassable
+river at its feet on one side, a dense tangle of trees on two other
+sides, and with a narrow open aisle between it and ourselves. The two
+smaller elephants were at its side. To see to fire I had to step out
+from the tree and expose myself, and as I stepped out the wounded beast
+saw me and reared its head as if to make a final rush. I fired
+point-blank; it swung around and a second shot sent it down. Hassan
+grabbed my arm and told me to hurry back before the two smaller
+elephants charged. If they did so it might be necessary to shoot them,
+which we didn't want to do. So we ran swiftly back to the edge of the
+river and waited. But all was quiet, and after a time we climbed across
+the river on the interlacing branches, circled around to where the
+elephants were visible just across the stream and scared the two smaller
+ones away. Once more we swung across from branch to branch over the
+swift waters of the river and reached the other bank where lay the
+mountainous bulk of the dead elephant. It was a young bull about eight
+feet high and with two well-shaped tusks twenty-two inches long in the
+open, or approximately thirty-eight inches in all.
+
+Sulimani was sent to notify Mr. Akeley and Mr. Clark, and after a long
+search found them, and together they arrived a couple of hours later,
+followed by gunbearers and saises. Mr. Stephenson had gone back to camp
+to see that salt and supplies, with one tent, were sent out.
+
+Then began the work of measuring the elephant, a work that must be done
+most thoroughly when the trophy is to be mounted entire. There were
+dozens of measurements of every part of the body, enough to make a dress
+for a woman, and then came the skinning, a prodigious task that took all
+of the late afternoon and evening. We investigated the position of an
+elephant's heart which Kermit Roosevelt had said was up in the upper
+third or at the top of the second third of the body, a spot which must
+be reached by a shot directed through the point of the ear as it lay
+back. As a matter of fact, an elephant's heart lies against the brisket,
+about ten or eleven inches from the bottom of the breast. A broadside
+shot through the front leg at the elbow would penetrate the heart.
+
+At nine o'clock, Christmas Eve, the tent arrived and was soon put up in
+the jungle of high grass at the middle of the little peninsula. A more
+African scene can not be imagined. The porter's fires, over each of
+which sticks spitted with elephant meat _en brochette_ were cooking,
+imparted a weird look to the river jungle grass and spectral trees.
+
+At ten o'clock we had our dinner and at eleven we put on our pajamas and
+with the camp-fire burning before the tent and the armed askaris pacing
+back and forth, gave ourselves up to lazy talk, then meditation and then
+sound sleep.
+
+It was a wonderful day--one always to be remembered.
+
+The next day, Christmas, came without the usual customs of Christmas
+morn. In the forenoon we stuck with the bull elephant, getting its skin
+and bones ready for transportation back to camp; and in the afternoon
+came the work of saving the skull and part of the skin of the cow
+elephant. The porters must have thought the day a wonderful one, for
+they ate and gorged on elephant meat until they could hardly move.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+IN THE SWAMPS ON THE GUAS NGISHU. BEATING FOR LIONS WE CAME UPON A
+STRANGE AND FASCINATING WILD BEAST, WHICH BECAME ATTACHED TO OUR PARTY.
+THE LITTLE WANDEROBO DOG
+
+
+One of the most exciting phases of African hunting is the beating of
+swamps for lion. A long skirmish line of native porters is sent in at
+one end of the swamp and, like a gigantic comb, sweeps every live thing
+ahead of it as it advances through the reeds. All kinds of swamp life
+are stirred into action, and a fairly large swamp will yield forth the
+contents of a pretty respectable menagerie. Sometimes a hyena or two
+will be flushed and once in a while a lion will be driven out.
+
+It is the constant expectation of the last-named animal that gives such
+keen and long sustained interest to the work of beating a swamp. One
+never knows what to expect. A suspicious stir in the reeds may mean a
+lion or only a hyena; an enormous crashing may sound like a herd of
+elephants, but finally resolve itself into a badly frightened reedbuck.
+Most of the time you expect reedbuck, but all the time you have to be
+ready for lion. As a general thing a lion will slink along in the reeds
+ahead of the beaters and not reveal himself until he is driven to the
+end of the cover. Then he will grunt warningly or show an ear or a
+lashing tail above the reeds, and instantly every one is in a state of
+intense expectancy. What the next move will be no one knows, but it is
+more than likely to be something of a supremely dramatic sort.
+
+One day we were beating swamps on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. Lions seemed
+to be numerous in that district. Two days before I had killed two lions
+near by, and during the morning Stephenson and I had each killed a
+lioness in the same line of marshy reed beds. We now intended advancing
+to the next large swamp of the chain and see whether a large,
+black-maned lion might not be routed out.
+
+Conditions seemed propitious, for in this selfsame swamp Colonel
+Roosevelt had seen the best lion of his trip some weeks before. Perhaps
+the lion might still be there.
+
+The campaign was planned with great thoroughness. Forty or fifty porters
+were formed into the customary skirmish line and on each side we
+paralleled the beaters with our rifles. At the word of command the
+column began to advance and the interest reached a fever heat. The swamp
+was five or six hundred yards long, and for the first three hundred
+yards nothing of a thrilling sort occurred. The shouts of the beaters
+blended into a rhythmic, melodious chant and the swish of their sticks
+as they thrashed the reeds was enough to make even the king of beasts
+apprehensive.
+
+[Photograph: Abdi, the Somali Head-man]
+
+[Photograph: Along the Nzoia River]
+
+[Photograph: Beating a Swamp for Lions]
+
+Over on my side of the swamp there was a wide extension of dry reeds and
+bushes through which I was obliged to go in order to keep in touch with
+the skirmish line of porters. We had got three-quarters the full length
+of the swamp and any moment might reasonably expect to hear from a lion
+if there was one ahead of us. Every rifle was at readiness and the
+porters were advancing less impetuously. In fact, they were pretending
+to go forward without doing so.
+
+Suddenly a wild shout from a porter near by, then a hurried retreat of
+other porters, and then a cautious advance gave sign that something
+desperate was about to happen. We caught a glimpse of reeds moving about
+and then saw something crouched in the grass beneath. Two ears were
+finally distinguished among the tangle of rushes, and there was no
+further doubt about it. It was not a lion. It wasn't even a hyena.
+
+It was a little dog. His presence in the middle of that swamp was about
+as logical as if he had been a musk-ox or a walrus. However, there he
+was, gazing up at us from the bulrushes, with mild, friendly eyes and a
+little tail that was poised for wagging at the slightest provocation. He
+was instantly christened "Moses" for obvious reasons. Later the name was
+changed to Mosina, also for obvious reasons.
+
+After the line of porters had regained their composure the lion beat
+continued, but no lion appeared. The sum total of the wild beasts
+yielded by that promising swamp was one (1) little black and tan dog
+with white feet.
+
+[Drawing: _It Was Not a Lion_]
+
+Some of our genealogical experts addressed themselves to the task of
+figuring out the why and wherefore of little Mosina and what in the
+world she was doing out in a lion and leopard infested place. Leopards
+in particular are fond of dogs, not the way you and I are fond of them,
+but in quite a different way. A leopard, so it is said, prefers a dog to
+any other food and will take daring chances in an effort to secure one
+for breakfast, dinner, or supper. Therefore, how little Mosina escaped
+so long is a mystery yet unsolved.
+
+The experts decided after a thorough consideration of the case, viewing
+it from all possible angles, that the little dog was a Wanderobo dog.
+The Wanderobo are natives who live solely by hunting and generally have
+the most primitive sort of a grass hut at the edge of a swamp or deep in
+the solitudes of the forest. They put rude honey boxes up in the trees
+to serve as beehives, and it is from this honey and from the game that
+they kill with their bows and arrows and traps and spears that they
+manage to eke out a meager living.
+
+Like all true hunters, they keep dogs, and it is more than likely that
+little Mosina was the ex-property of some wild-eyed, naked Wanderobo who
+lived in the swamp. When our great crowd of noisy beaters appeared at
+the other end of the swamp the Wanderobo had doubtless crawled out of
+his hole and made off for the nearest tall grass. In going he had left
+behind Mosina as a rear-guard to cover his retreat or to stay the
+invaders' advance until he could reach the nearest spot available to a
+hasty man.
+
+So we adopted this theory as to why Mosina was in the bulrushes, and in
+honor of her Wanderobo associations we again changed her name to "Little
+Wanderobo Dog." So far as I know, she is the only dog in history who has
+had three separate and distinct names within two hours. Of course, there
+are people who have called dogs more than three different names in much
+less time, but they were not Christian names. One of the bachelor
+members of the committee, who is known to be a woman-hater, conferred
+the honorary title of the pronoun "he" on Little Wanderobo Dog, and she
+has been "he" ever since. But not without a bitter fight by those of the
+committee who think the pronoun "she" is infinitely more to be admired.
+
+Little Wanderobo Dog did not wait to be adopted. He adopted us, but not
+ostentatiously at first--just a friendly wag here and there to show that
+he had at last found what he was looking for. By degrees he became more
+friendly and genial, so that at the end of an hour he was thoroughly one
+of us.
+
+I have never seen a milder-eyed dog than Little Wanderobo. Innocence and
+guilelessness struggled for supremacy, with "confidence in strangers" a
+close third. You couldn't help liking him, for with those meek and
+gentle eyes, together with manners above reproach, he simply walked into
+your heart and made himself at home.
+
+I think that we were a good deal of a surprise to him. In all his short
+young life he had probably never known anything but kicks and cuffs.
+When he met a stranger he naturally expected to have something thrown at
+him, or to have a stubby toe or hard sandal projected into his side.
+Imagine his wonderment to find people who actually petted him and played
+with him. At first he didn't know how to play, but it was amazing to see
+how fast he learned. He was ready to play with any and all comers at any
+and all times. You could arouse him from a deep slumber and he would be
+ready to engage in any form of gaiety at a second's notice.
+
+They talk about "charm." Some people have it to a wonderful degree. You
+like them the minute you meet them, and often don't really know why.
+Perhaps because you simply can't help it. Well, that was the chief
+characteristic of Little Wanderobo Dog. He had more charm than anything
+I've ever met, and so it is only natural that he should have walked into
+our affections in the most natural, unaffected sort of way.
+
+I don't know what he thought of us, but I really believe that he thought
+he had gone to Heaven. We fed him and played with him, and finally he
+gained a little assurance, and actually barked. He barked at one of our
+roosters, and then we knew that he considered himself past the probation
+stage. He had confidence enough to assert himself in a series of lusty
+barks without fearing a hostile boot or an angry shout. The first time
+he barked we all rushed out of our tents in wonder and admiration. It
+was the most important event of the day, and it caused a great deal of
+talk of a friendly nature.
+
+There was one umbrageous cloud on Little Wanderobo Dog's horizon,
+however--a cloud that he soon learned to evade. The Mohammedans didn't
+like him. It is a part of their creed to hate dogs almost as much as
+pork, and to be touched by a dog means many prayers to Allah to wipe
+away the stain of contact. But Little Wanderobo Dog was not conversant
+with the Mohammedan creed at first, and in his gladness and joy of life
+he embraced everybody in the waves of affection and friendliness that
+radiated from him like a golden aura.
+
+The Somali gunbearers were disciples of Allah, and they began to kick at
+him before he was within eight feet of them. Two of the tent boys were
+also Mohammedans, but they had to be more circumspect in their
+hostility. Whenever Little Wanderobo Dog came around they would edge
+away, which gave the former a certain sense of importance because it was
+flattering to have a number of grown-up men fear him so much. Then there
+were a number of the porters who were Mohammedans of a sort, but these
+were wont to say, "O, what is a creed among friends?"
+
+It was quite cold up on the plateau at night. Sometimes the wind swept
+down from the distant fringe of mountains and shook the tents until the
+tent pegs jumped out of the ground. The night guard would pile more wood
+on the big central camp-fire near our tents and the porters, in their
+eighteen or twenty little tents, would huddle closer together for
+warmth. They were nights for at least three blankets, and even four were
+not too many.
+
+Consequently Little Wanderobo Dog was confronted by the necessity of
+adopting a place to sleep where he would be safe from those sharp arrows
+of the north wind that swept across the high stretches of the plateau.
+So he ingratiated himself into my tent with many friendly wags of his
+tail and a countenance of such benign faith in human nature that he was
+allowed to remain. At many times in the night I was awakened and I knew
+that Little Wanderobo Dog was dreaming about some wicked swamp ogre that
+was trying to kick him.
+
+At first he was not a silent sleeper, but later on these awful
+nightmares came with less frequency and I presume his dreams took on a
+more beatific character. As a watch-dog I don't believe he had great
+value, because of his readiness to make friends with anything and
+anybody. If a leopard had come into the tent he would have said, "Excuse
+me, but I think you are in the wrong place," but he would never have
+barked or conducted himself in an ungentlemanly way.
+
+One could never tell what was likely to come into one's tent at night,
+even with armed askaris patrolling the camp all night long. One cold
+night, before Little Wanderobo Dog had come to live with us, I was
+awakened by a curious rustle of the tent flaps. I listened and then
+watched the tent flap for some moments, thinking that the wind might
+have been responsible. But there was no wind and it seemed beyond doubt
+that some animal had entered.
+
+For a long time I listened, but could hear nothing; and yet at the same
+time I had a positive conviction that I was not alone in the tent. I
+wondered if it could be a leopard, or some small member of the cat
+tribe. I knew that it wasn't a dog, for there were no dogs anywhere in
+the vicinity of the camp. As the minutes went by without any hostile
+move from the darkness, I decided to let whatever it was stay until it
+got ready to depart. So I went to sleep.
+
+Once more in the night I was awakened by a noise in the tent and as
+nearly as I could diagnose the situation, the noise came from under my
+cot. But, I reasoned, if the animal is there, it's behaving itself and
+if it were on mischief bent it would have transacted its business long
+before. So I went to sleep again.
+
+Just at dawn the clarion crow of a rooster came from under my bed. It
+was one of the roosters the cook had bought from a Boer settler and had
+come in to escape the coldness of the night air without. It was a most
+agreeable surprise, for there was a homelike sound in the crow of the
+rooster that was pleasantly reminiscent of the banks of the Wabash far
+away.
+
+After Little Wanderobo Dog became "acclimated" to the warm and friendly
+atmosphere of hospitality of the camp, he began to show evidences of
+tact and diplomacy. He bestowed his attentions, with unerring
+impartiality to all of us. In the evening, and frequently during the
+day, he would pay ceremonial visits to each of the four tents of the
+_msungu_, as the white people are called. First he would approach the
+threshold of one tent, cock an inquiring ear at the occupant, and upon
+receiving the customary sign of welcome would wag himself in and pay his
+respects. After a short call he would wag his way out and call at the
+next tent, where the same performance was repeated.
+
+[Drawing: _A Ceremonial Call_]
+
+He never burst into a place like a cyclone of happiness, but rather, he
+sort of oozed in and oozed out, his mild brown eyes brimming with
+gentleness and his tail, that eloquent insignia of canine gladness,
+wigwagging messages of good cheer.
+
+In one of the tents of the _msungu_ there was a pet monkey. It had been
+captured down on the Tana River months before and at first was wild and
+vicious. As time went by it lost much of its wildness and to those it
+liked was affectionate and friendly. To all others it presented variable
+moods, sometimes friendly and sometimes unexpectedly and unreasonably
+hostile. We feared that Little Wanderobo Dog would have some bad moments
+with the little Tana River monkey, and their first meeting was awaited
+with keen interest. We thought the monkey would scratch all the
+gentleness out of the Little Wanderobo Dog's eyes and that the two
+animals would become bitter enemies.
+
+But nothing of the sort happened. Little Wanderobo Dog managed the
+matter with rare tact. He succeeded in slowly overcoming the monkey's
+prejudices, then in inspiring confidence, and finally in establishing
+play relations. It was worth a good deal to see the dog and monkey
+playing together, the latter scampering down from his tent-pole aery,
+leaping on the dog, and scampering hurriedly over the latter, with a
+quick retreat to the invulnerable heights of the tent-pole. Little
+Wanderobo Dog would allow the monkey to roam at will over his features
+and anatomy, thereby showing tolerance which I thought impossible for
+any animal to show. After Little Wanderobo Dog had paid his devoirs to
+his host, which he did each day with great punctiliousness, he would
+then retire to some sunny spot and enjoy his siesta. He was great on
+siestas and usually had several each day.
+
+[Drawing: _The Entente Cordiale_]
+
+In time he learned to distinguish between Mohammedans and other
+dark-complexioned people and held himself aloof from the former, thereby
+escaping any humiliating races with the heavy boots of the gunbearers
+and other followers of Allah. He made friends with little Ali, the
+monkey's valet, a small Swahili boy who looked like a chocolate drop in
+color, and like a tooth-powder ad in disposition. It was Ali's duty to
+carry the monkey on our marches.
+
+The little gray monkey, with its venerable looking black face fringed
+with a sunburst of white hair, would be tied to an old umbrella of the
+Sairey Gamp pattern, and would sit upon it as the small boy carried it
+along the trails on his shoulder, like a musket. Sometimes when the sun
+was strong the umbrella would be raised to shield the monkey's eyes,
+which could not stand the fierce glare incident to a long march upon
+sun-baked trails. At such times the monkey, who rejoiced in the brief
+name of J.T. Jr.--the same being emblazoned on the little silver collar
+around its neck--at such times the monkey would scamper from shoulder to
+shoulder of the small boy, with occasional excursions up in the woolly
+kinks of the heights above. It was a funny picture and one that never
+failed to amuse those who watched it.
+
+Well, Little Wanderobo Dog, by some prescient instinct hardly to be
+expected in one brought up in a swamp, decided that little Ali and the
+monkey were to be his "companions of the march." So, when the tents were
+struck and Abdi, the head-man, shouted "_Funga nizigo yaka!_" and the
+tented city of yesterday became a scattered heap of sixty-pound porters'
+loads, Little Wanderobo would seek out Ali and prepare to bear him
+company during the long stretches of the march. And then when the long
+line of horsemen, native soldiers, porters, tent boys, gunbearers, ox
+gharries, and all began to wind their sinuous way over veldt or through
+forest, there was none in the line more picturesque than Ali and J.T.
+Jr. surrounded by the affable Little Wanderobo Dog.
+
+[Photograph: Being Posed for a Post Mortem Picture]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Triumvirate]
+
+[Drawing: _The Three Comrades_]
+
+It is little wonder that friendship soon ripened into love, and that we
+all became speedily and irrevocably attached to the little swamp angel.
+His presence in any gathering was like a benediction of good cheer, and
+when his tail was in full swing he looked like a golden jubilee. As I
+say, it was no wonder we liked him, and I think I may also say, without
+flattering ourselves, that the sentiment was reciprocated. I don't
+believe the joy he showed at all times could have been assumed. It must
+have been pure joy, without alloy.
+
+His table manners were above reproach. He would, never grab or show
+unseemly greed. He awaited our pleasure and each bone or chop that fell
+his way was received with every token of mute but eloquent gratitude.
+You were constantly made to feel that he loved you for yourself and not
+for what he hoped you would give him. If I were to be wrecked on a
+desert island, I believe there is hardly more than one person that I'd
+prefer to have as my sole companion than Little Wanderobo Dog.
+
+Perhaps a few words about the architecture of the little dog might not
+come amiss. He was built somewhat on the lines of the German
+renaissance, being low and rakish like a dachshund, but with just a
+little more freeboard than the dachshund. His legs were straight instead
+of bowed, as are those of his distinguished German cousin. His ears were
+hardly as pendulous, being rather more trenchant than pendulous, and
+therefore more mobile in action. His tail was facile and retrousse, with
+a lateral swing of about a foot and an indicated speed of seventeen
+hundred to the minute. When you add to these many charms, those mild
+eyes, surcharged with love light, and a bark as sweet as the bark of the
+frangipanni tree and as cheerful as the song of the meadow-lark, you may
+realize some of the estimable qualities that distinguished Little
+Wanderobo Dog.
+
+For some weeks he stayed with us, Tray-like in his faithfulness, and
+always in the vanguard when danger threatened the rear. One day our
+caravan passed through a group of migrating Wanderobos. There were a
+dozen or so of men, all armed with spears and bows and arrows; also
+fifteen or twenty women, thirty or forty _totos_, and about a score of
+dogs.
+
+Here was the test. Would Little Wanderobo Dog, reclaimed from the swamp,
+harken to the call of the blood and join the band of his own kind? If he
+did, we could only bow our heads in grief and submission, for after all
+were not we only foster friends and not blood relations? But Little
+Wanderobo Dog never wavered in his allegiance to us. He had planted his
+lance by our colors and with these he would stick till death.
+
+He passed those other Wanderobo dogs as if they were creatures from
+another world. If he felt tempted to join his fellow dogs, there was no
+indication of it, and at night when we reached our camp we found our
+faithful follower at his accustomed post, stanch, firm and true to his
+colors, which were black and tan.
+
+But alas, there comes a time when the best of friends must part. And the
+dark day came when I saw Little Wanderobo Dog for the last time. It was
+at Escarpment. Our long months of hunting were over. Our horses and
+porters and all our equipment were on the train bound for Nairobi, where
+we were to settle our affairs and leave Africa and its happy hunting
+ground. Little Wanderobo Dog had been let out of his first-class
+compartment in the train and was running up and down the platform,
+wigwagging messages of gladness with his tail and sniffing friends and
+strangers with dog-like curiosity. Some friends of ours were at the
+train to say howdy-do and to shake our hands, and with these the little
+dog was soon on friendly terms.
+
+When the train whistle blew and the bell was rung and some more whistles
+blew and more bells were rung, Little Wanderobo Dog was taken back into
+his car. The last good-bys were said and we were off for Nairobi.
+Suddenly there was a startled cry, a whisk of a tail, and the dog was
+gone--out of the car window. He lit on his nose, but as far back as we
+could see he sat in the middle of the next track and gazed at the
+receding train. Two days later Mrs. Tarlton came down from Escarpment
+and said that she had rescued the dog and that he was installed in the
+hospitable home of Mrs. Hampson, where he would remain until he rejoined
+those members of our party who were to remain in Africa some months
+longer. It is likely that Little Wanderobo Dog may be taken on a great
+elephant hunt in Uganda and, who knows, some time he may visit America.
+I hope so, for I'd like to give him a dinner.
+
+[Drawing: _Our Last View_]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+WHO'S WHO IN JUNGLELAND. THE HARTEBEEST AND THE WILDEBEEST, THE AMUSING
+GIRAFFE AND THE UBIQUITOUS ZEBRA, THE LOVELY GAZELLE AND THE GENTLE
+IMPALLA
+
+
+In the course of the average shooting experience in British East Africa
+the sportsman is likely to see between twenty and thirty different
+species of animals. From the windows of the car as he journeys from
+Mombasa to Nairobi, three hundred and twenty-seven miles, he may
+definitely count upon seeing at least seven of these species:
+Wildebeest, hartebeest, Grant's gazelle, Thompson's gazelle, zebra,
+impalla, and giraffe, with the likelihood of seeing in addition some
+wart-hogs and a distant rhinoceros, and the remote possibility of seeing
+cheetah, lion, and hyena. Of the bird varieties the traveler will be
+sure of seeing many ostriches, some giant bustards, and perhaps a sedate
+secretary-bird or two.
+
+[Photograph: Hassan and a Hartebeest]
+
+[Photograph: The Author's Home in Africa]
+
+[Photograph: Beautiful Upland Country]
+
+These animals are the common varieties, and after a short time in the
+country the stranger learns to tell them apart. He knows the zebra from
+his previous observation in circuses; he also does not have to be told
+what the giraffe is, but the other ones of the seven common varieties he
+must learn, for most of them are utterly strange to an American eye.
+
+[Drawing: _Gazelle, with Wildebeest in Background_]
+
+He soon learns to pick out the wildebeest, or gnu, by its American
+buffalo appearance; he comes to know the little Thompson's gazelle by
+its big black stripe on its white sides and by its frisky tail that is
+always flirting back and forth. The Grant's gazelle is a little harder
+to pick out at first, and one is likely to get the Grant's and Tommy's
+confused. But after a short time the difference is apparent, the Grant's
+being much larger in stature and has much larger horns and is minus the
+Thompsonian perpetual motion tail. It certainly is a stirring tail! The
+impalla is about the same size as the Grant's gazelle, but has horns of
+a lyrate shape.
+
+The hartebeest is speedily identified, because he is unlike any other
+antelope in appearance and exists in such large numbers in nearly every
+part of East Africa. Indeed, if a returned traveler were asked what
+animal is most typical of the country he would at once name the
+hartebeest. He sees it so much and so often that after a time it seems
+to be only a necessary fixture in the landscape. A horizon without a few
+hartebeests on it would seem to be lacking in completeness.
+
+Furthermore, the stranger soon learns that the hartebeest is commonly
+called by its native name, kongoni, and by the time his shooting trip is
+over the sight of the ubiquitous kongoni has become as much of his daily
+experience as the sight of his tent or his breakfast table. To me the
+kongoni appealed most strongly because of his droll appearance and
+because of a many-sided character that stirs one's imagination.
+
+He is big and awkward in appearance and action; his face is long and
+thin and always seems to wear a quizzical look of good humor, as if he
+were amused at something. Others besides myself have remarked upon this,
+so I am hoping that the kongoni wore this amused look even at times when
+he was not looking at me. His long, rakish horns are mounted on a
+pedicle that extends above his head, thus accentuating the droll length
+of his features. His withers are unusually high and add to the awkward
+appearance of the animal. Standing, the kongoni is a picture of alert,
+interested good humor; running, he is extremely funny, as he bounces
+along on legs that seem to be stiffened so that he appears to rise and
+fall in his stride like a huge rubber ball. We made quite a study of the
+kongoni, for he is a most interesting animal. He is unselfish and
+vigilant in protecting the other creatures of the plain. His eyes are as
+keen as those of a hawk, and when a herd is feeding there are always
+several kongoni sentinels posted on ant-hills in such a strategic way
+that not a thing moves anywhere on the plains that escapes their
+attention. Oftentimes I have cautiously crept to the top of a ridge to
+scan the plains, and there, a mile away, a kongoni would be looking at
+me with great interest.
+
+If you try to approach he will remain where he is until his warning
+sneezes have alarmed all the other animals, and finally, when all have
+fled, he goes gallumphing along in the rear. He is the self-appointed
+protector of his fellow creatures, the sentinel of the plains. I have
+seen him run back into danger in order to alarm a herd of unsuspecting
+zebras.
+
+He leads the wildebeests to water and he lends his eyes to the elephants
+as they feed. With nearly every herd of game, or near by, will be found
+the faithful kongoni, always alert, watchful, and vigilant, and it is
+nearly always his cry of warning that sends the beasts of the plains
+flying from dangers that they can not see.
+
+The sportsman swears at the kongoni because it so often alarms the
+quarry he is stalking. How very often it happens! The hunter sees afar
+some trophy that he is eager to secure and straightway begins a careful
+stalk of many hundred yards. At last, after much patient work, he
+reaches a point where he feels that he can chance a shot. He takes a
+careful sight and at that moment a kongoni that has been silently
+watching him from some place or other gives the alarm, and away goes the
+trophy beyond reach of a bullet. And then how the hunter curses at the
+kongoni, who has stopped some little distance away and is regarding him
+with that quaint, lugubriously funny look. It almost seems to be
+laughing at him.
+
+One day I tried to shoot a topi. It was a broiling hot day and the sun
+hung dead above and drove its burning javelins into me as I crept along.
+For seven hundred yards, on hands and knees, I slowly and painfully made
+my way. The grass wore through the knees of my trousers and the sharp
+stubbles cut my palms; once a snake darted out of a clump of grass just
+as my hand was descending upon it, and lizards frequently shot away
+within a yard of my nose. My neck was nearly broken from looking forward
+while on my hands and knees, and it was nearly an hour of creeping
+progress that I spent while stalking that topi.
+
+When I got within two hundred and fifty yards, and was just ready to
+take a careful aim, with an ant-hill as a rest, a kongoni somewhere gave
+the alarm, and away went the topi, safe and sound but badly scared. The
+kongoni went a little way off and then turned and grinned broadly. I was
+momentarily tempted to shoot him, but on second thought I realized that
+he had acted nobly from the animal point of view, so I forgave him.
+
+[Drawing: _Outward Bound--Reading Your Thoughts--Concluding your
+Intentions Are Hostile_]
+
+The kongoni seems to be gifted with a clairvoyant instinct. He knows
+when you don't want to shoot him and when you do. If you start out in
+the morning with no hostile intentions toward him he will allow you to
+approach to within a short distance. He will be alert and watchful, but
+he will show no anxiety. But just suppose for an instant that you change
+your mind. Suppose you say to yourself that the porters have had no meat
+for several days and that it might be well to shoot a kongoni. The
+latter knows what is passing in your mind long before you have made a
+single movement to betray your intentions. He begins to edge away, ready
+in an instant to go bounding rapidly beyond rifle shot.
+
+I've seen a herd of kongoni standing quite near, watching me with
+curious interest, but without fear. Perhaps I was intent upon something
+else and hardly noticed them. Suddenly a villainous thought might enter
+my head, such as "That big kongoni has enormous horns," and instantly
+the herd would prick up their ears, run a few steps, and then turn to
+verify their suspicions. Then, if the villainous thought still lurked in
+my brain, they would sneeze shrilly and go galloping away in the
+distance. There is no way to explain this except to attribute it to
+thought transference, and this in spite of the fact that the kongoni
+doesn't understand English.
+
+The kongoni is found nearly every place in East Africa. Along the
+railway between Makindu and Nairobi the species is called Coke's
+hartebeest. Farther up the railway the species is Neumann's hartebeest,
+while still beyond, on the Guas Ngishu Plateau and the Mau escarpment,
+the species is called Jackson's hartebeest. In the main the three
+varieties are almost the same; it is in the horns that the chief
+distinction lies, with lesser differences in color and stature. The
+hunter has been allowed to kill ten of each on his license, but under
+the new game ordinance in force since December, 1909, only four
+Jackson's are allowed and twenty Coke's instead of ten.
+
+[Drawing: _The Young Kongoni Is Very Funny_]
+
+When we went across the Guas Ngishu Plateau in early November we saw
+thousands of Jackson's hartebeest, and never a calf. When we came back
+in late December and early January we saw hundreds and hundreds of
+calves, many of them less than a day old. The stork must have been busy,
+for they all arrived at once. These little calves come into the world
+fully equipped for running, and almost immediately after birth go
+bounding along after their mothers, so awkward and so funny that I'm not
+surprised that their own mothers look perpetually amused.
+
+The hartebeest, or kongoni, is hard to kill. The Dutch gave him the name
+for that reason. It often seems as if bullets have no effect on him. He
+will absorb lead without losing a trace of his good-humored look, and
+after he has been shot several times he will go bounding earnestly away,
+as if nothing was the matter. If he succeeds in joining a herd there is
+little way of distinguishing which one has been shot, unless he suddenly
+exhibits signs or falls over. Otherwise he is quite likely to gallop
+away, far beyond pursuit, and then slowly succumb to his wounds.
+
+Again I've seen them knocked over and lie as if dead, but before one
+could approach they would be up and off as good as ever. This is the
+great tragedy of the conscientious hunter's life--the escape of a
+wounded animal beyond pursuit--and the thought of it is one that keeps
+him awake at night with a remorseful heart and saddened thoughts.
+Whenever I shall think of Africa in the future, I shall think of my old
+friend, the kongoni, dotting the landscape and sticking his inquiring
+ears over various spots on the horizon. In four and a half months I
+think I must have seen at least a hundred thousand kongoni.
+
+The giraffe is also a creature of most amusing actions. You are pretty
+certain to see a bunch of them as you come up the railway from the
+coast. They were the first wild animals I saw in British East Africa--a
+group of four or five quietly feeding within only a hundred yards of the
+thundering railway engine. They were in the protected area, however, and
+seemed to know that no harm would reach them there. Later on in the
+morning we saw other herds, but invariably at long range, sometimes
+teetering along the sky line or appearing and disappearing behind the
+flat-topped umbrella acacias.
+
+[Drawing: _They Run Loosely but Earnestly_]
+
+The giraffe is most laughable when in action. He first looks at you,
+then curls his tail over his back, and then lopes off with head and neck
+stuck out, and with body and legs slowly folding and unfolding in a most
+ungainly stride. It is hard to describe the gait of a giraffe to one who
+has never seen it, but any one would at once know without being told
+that a giraffe couldn't help being funny when running.
+
+As a general thing it is difficult to approach a giraffe. With their
+keen eyes and great height they almost invariably see you before you see
+them, and that will be at seven or eight hundred yards' distance. From
+the moment they see you they never lose sight of you unless it is when
+they disappear behind a hill a mile or two away.
+
+When seen on the sky-line a herd of giraffe will suggest a line of
+telegraph poles; when seen scattered along a hillside, partly sheltered
+under the trees, they blend into the mottled lights and shadows in such
+a way as to be almost invisible. I have been within two hundred yards of
+a motionless giraffe and, although looking directly at it, was not aware
+that it was a giraffe until it moved. It might easily have been mistaken
+for a bare fork of the tree, with the mottled shadows of the leaves cast
+upon it.
+
+Along the Tana River I saw several herds of giraffe, perhaps fifty head
+in all, but it was on the great stretches of the scrub country that
+slopes down from Mount Elgon that I saw the great herds of them. One
+afternoon I saw twenty-nine together, big black males, beautifully
+marked tawny females, and lots of little ones that loomed up like lamp
+posts amidst a group of telegraph poles. Within two hours I saw two
+other herds of seven and nine each, and every day thereafter it was
+quite a common thing to run across groups of these strange-looking
+animals browsing among the trees.
+
+One is not allowed to kill a giraffe except under a special license,
+which costs one hundred and fifty rupees, or fifty dollars. One of our
+party had a commission to secure a specimen for a collector and had been
+unsuccessful in getting it. That circumstance led to an amusing
+adventure that I had with a giant giraffe. One day, with my gunbearers,
+I had ridden out from camp in search of wild pigs. Ten minutes after
+leaving camp I drew rein hastily, for off to my left and in front a lone
+giraffe of great size and of splendid black color was slowly careening
+along toward me. If he continued in his course and did not see us he
+would pass within a hundred yards of me. So I hastily but quietly
+dismounted to try for a photograph as he passed.
+
+A moment or two later he saw me for the first time and at once swung
+into a funny trot. I took the picture, and then the thought struck me,
+"Why not drive him into camp, where he could be secured by the one
+having a special license?" I jumped on my horse and galloped around him,
+but in a few moments struck a ravine so rocky that I had to walk my
+horse through the worst of it. By the time I had crossed the giraffe was
+some hundred yards ahead. Still farther ahead the prairie was burning
+and the long line of fire extended a mile or more across our front.
+
+I thought this fire would swing the giraffe off, and so it became a race
+to reach the fire line first, in order to swing him in the right
+direction. The ground was deep with prairie grass, as dry as tinder, and
+scattered throughout were innumerable holes in the ground made by the
+ant-bears and wart-hogs. Any one of these holes was enough to throw a
+horse head over heels if he went into it. I had no gun, having left it
+with my gunbearer when I took the picture. So there was nothing to
+hinder me as we swept across the great plain.
+
+We passed the camp half a mile away at a furious pace, the giraffe
+holding his own with the horse and keeping too far in front to be
+turned. By degrees we approached the prairie fire and the flames were
+leaping up three or four feet in a line many hundred yards long. The
+giraffe hesitated and then breasted the walls of fire; I didn't know
+whether my horse would take the salamander leap or not, and as we rushed
+down toward it I half-expected that he would stop suddenly and send me
+flying over his shoulders. But he never wavered. The excitement of the
+chase was upon him and he took the leap like an antelope. There was a
+moment of blinding smoke, a burning blast of air, and then we were
+galloping madly on across the blackened dust where the fire had already
+swept.
+
+For two miles I galloped the giraffe, vainly endeavoring to swing him
+around, but once a swamp retarded me and another time a low hill shut
+the giraffe from view. When I passed the hill he had disappeared and
+could not be found again. There was no deep regret at having lost him,
+for I felt particularly grateful to him for having given me the most
+exhilarating and the most joyous ride I had in Africa.
+
+The large male giraffes often appear solid black at a distance, for the
+yellow bands separating the splotches of black are so slender as to be
+invisible at even a short distance. The females are much lighter and
+usually look like the giraffes we see in the circuses at home.
+
+Then there's the ubiquitous zebra, almost as numerous as the kongoni.
+You see vast herds of zebra at many places along the railway, and
+thereafter, as you roam about the level spots of East Africa, you are
+always running into herds of them. At first, the sight of a herd of
+zebras is a surprise, for you have been accustomed to seeing them in the
+small numbers found in captivity. It is a source of passing wonder that
+these rare animals should be roaming about the suburbs of towns in
+hundred lots. You decide that it would be a shame to shoot a zebra and
+determine not to join in this heartless slaughter.
+
+Later on your sentiments will undergo a change. Everybody will tell you
+that the zebra is a fearful pest and must be exterminated if
+civilization and progress are to continue. The zebra is absolutely
+useless and efforts to domesticate him have been without good results.
+He tramps over the plains, breaks down fences, tears up the cultivated
+fields, and really fulfills no mission in life save that of supplying
+the lions with food. As long as the zebras stay the lions will be there,
+but the settlers say that the lions are even preferable to the zebras.
+
+Under the old game ordinance expiring December fifteenth, 1909, a
+sportsman was allowed two zebras under his license; under the new one he
+is allowed twenty! That reveals the attitude of East Africa toward the
+jaunty little striped pony.
+
+[Drawing: _Zebra, Wildebeest and Gazelle (Wildebeest in Middle)_]
+
+In action the zebra is dependent upon his friend, the kongoni. When the
+latter signals him to run, he trots off and then turns to look. If the
+kongoni sends out a 4-11 alarm, the zebra will hike off in a
+Shetland-pony-like gallop and run some distance before stopping. They
+have no endurance and may be easily rounded up with a horse.
+
+On the Athi Plains may be found the bones of scores of zebras, each spot
+marking where a lion has fed; and in the barb-wire fences of the
+settlers other scores of withered hides and whitened skulls mark where
+they have fallen before the grim march of civilization.
+
+With each sportsman granted an allowance of twenty zebras, it may not be
+so long before the zebra will be forced to seek the sanctuary of the
+game reserves, which, happily, are large enough to insure his escape
+from extinction.
+
+The zebra's chief peculiarity, aside from his beautiful markings, is a
+dog-like bark which is much more canine than equine in its sound. The
+zebra's chief charm is its colt, for there is nothing alive that is
+prettier or more graceful than a young zebra a few weeks old.
+
+The only Grant's gazelles that I saw were those along the railway at
+Kapiti Plains and Athi Plains. This animal is graceful and beautiful,
+with a splendid sweep of horns. With them, and in much greater numbers,
+is the little "Tommy," or Thompson's gazelle, a graceful, buoyant,
+happy, bounding little antelope with an ever active tail flirting gaily
+in the sunshine. The Tommy is small, about twice as big as a fox
+terrier, and is of a fawn color. Along the lower parts of his sides is a
+broad white belt, along the middle of which runs a bold black stripe.
+The effect is strikingly handsome.
+
+The impalla is much bigger than the Tommy, and he usually travels in
+large herds of fifty or more. It is no uncommon sight to see one buck
+with twenty or thirty females, and it is probably due to the fact that
+hunters try to get the male specimens as trophies that accounts for the
+vast preponderance of females in the various antelope herds. The impalla
+is seen along the railroad and in enormous numbers out along the Thika
+Thika and Tana Rivers. There are also many up in the Rift Valley and
+doubtless in other sections. From my own experience and observation they
+were most abundant on the Tana River.
+
+[Drawing: _Impalla Buck and Lady Friends_]
+
+The wildebeest, or gnu, is found on the Athi Plains and northward along
+the Athi River and the Thika Thika. One need never travel more than two
+hours' drive or walk from Nairobi to see wildebeest, but it's a
+different thing to get them. You would have to travel many hours, most
+likely, before you succeeded in bringing down a wildebeest.
+
+My first shot in Africa was at a wildebeest at three hundred yards. The
+bullet struck, but so did the wildebeest. He struck out for northern
+Africa, and when last seen was still headed earnestly for the north
+pole. I am consoled in thinking that my shot must have inflicted more
+surprise than injury and so I hope he has now fully recovered, wilder
+and beastier than of yore.
+
+My last shot in Africa, the day before leaving for the coast, was at a
+wildebeest an hour or so out of Nairobi. This time I missed entirely and
+repeatedly and the wildebeest remains unscathed to roam the broad plains
+of the Athi until some better or luckier shot passes his way. If I have
+anything on my conscience, it is certainly not the remorse of having
+reduced the supply of wildebeests.
+
+[Drawing: _Wildebeest With the White Man Only Eight Miles Away_]
+
+In our last few days' shooting out on the Athi Plains we saw perhaps
+fifty or seventy-five of these great bison-like animals. Their bodies
+and legs and tails are slender and graceful, like those of a horse, but
+the heads are heavy-featured, heavy-horned and heavy-bearded. They are
+wild and when they see you a mile or so away will start and run for the
+nearest vanishing point, usually arriving there long before you do.
+
+The foregoing seven species of animals are the ones most commonly seen
+in East Africa. Perhaps something about some of the less common ones
+will have some instructive value.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+SOME NATURAL HISTORY IN WHICH IT IS REVEALED THAT A SING-SING WATERBUCK
+IS NOT A SINGING TOPI, AND THAT A TOPI IS NOT A SPECIES OF HEAD-DRESS
+
+
+While reading an account of the trophies secured by Colonel Roosevelt on
+the Guas Ngishu Plateau, I was mystified by seeing the name of an animal
+I had never heard tell of--a singing topi. For a time I puzzled over
+this strange creature and finally evolved a satisfactory explanation of
+how the animal made its appearance in the despatches. Briefly, "there
+haint no sich animal," as the old farmer said when he saw his first
+dromedary in a circus; it was merely a mistake, due to the telegraphic
+abbreviations which foreign correspondents employ to save cable tolls.
+
+What the correspondent meant to say was that the colonel had secured a
+sing-sing waterbuck _and_ a topi. The word "waterbuck" was omitted
+because he assumed that everybody at home would know that a "sing-sing"
+was a species of waterbuck, wherein he was mistaken, for comparatively
+few people in America know what a sing-sing is, or, for that matter,
+what a topi is, or what a Uganda cob is. When his despatch had been
+transmitted through several operators on its way to the States the word
+"sing-sing" became "singing" and was supposed to be an adjective
+describing the topi. Hence the "singing topi."
+
+The American paragraphers also had fun with the word "topi," for they
+thought a topi was a sun hat much worn in the hot countries. From this
+course of reasoning it was probably assumed that Colonel Roosevelt had
+shot some kind of a singing sun hat, which was certainly enough to cause
+comment.
+
+There are two kinds of waterbuck that the East African hunter will find
+in the course of his travels, the common waterbuck which we saw in such
+numbers on the Tana River, and the Defassa, or "sing-sing" waterbuck,
+which is found in the higher altitudes up toward the Mau escarpment and
+Mount Elgon. Both of these varieties of waterbuck are beautiful animals,
+almost as large as a steer, and with great sweeping horns that often
+exceed twenty-five inches in length. In some instances the horns have
+been nearly three feet long, but the longest one that our party secured
+was only twenty-nine inches in length. As a trophy for a wall there are
+few heads in Africa more noble than that of the waterbuck.
+
+In all our wanderings, during which we saw at least two thousand
+waterbuck, we found that the does outnumbered the males by ten to one
+and that usually in a herd of twenty there would be only one big male
+and one or two smaller ones. We also never saw them in water, but
+usually not a great distance from a marsh or stream. They were much
+shier than the hartebeest and zebra, and upon seeing our approach would
+be the first to run away. And by a curious chance the does seemed to
+know that it was the buck only that was in danger. They would often turn
+to watch us, while the buck himself would keep on running until he had
+put many hundreds of yards between himself and the threatened danger.
+Then, and then only, would he turn to watch, and it usually required
+careful stalking to get within gunshot of him again.
+
+[Drawing: _Waterbuck_]
+
+The doe is not pretty, being thickly and clumsily built, with a heavy,
+ungraceful neck, but the buck is like a painting by Landseer, noble,
+graceful, and beautifully marked with white and black on his dark gray
+coat.
+
+We didn't kill many waterbuck, because there is no excuse for doing so
+except to secure the heads as trophies. The meat is so coarse and tough
+that even the porters, who seldom draw the line at eating anything their
+teeth can penetrate, do not care for waterbuck meat except under the
+stress of great hunger. They do like the skin, however, for it is of the
+waterbuck skin that their best sandals are made. Consequently, when a
+waterbuck is killed there is a fierce scramble among the porters to
+secure portions of the hide for this purpose.
+
+The male waterbucks are savage fighters among themselves, and it was not
+uncommon to see big bulls with one horn gone or with both horns badly
+broken or marred as a result of the jealous struggle for dominance of a
+herd of does.
+
+The topi is something like the hartebeest, but much more beautiful and
+much more rare. It is over four feet high, with skin of a dark reddish
+brown, with a silklike bluish gray gloss. On the shoulders and thighs
+are bluish black patches and the forehead and nose are blackish brown.
+The under parts are bright cinnamon. We ran across this beautiful
+antelope only on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, although it is found in one or
+two other districts in East Africa. In all our weeks of rambling on the
+high plains near Mount Elgon I think I saw several hundred head of topi,
+always shy and quick to take alarm.
+
+[Photograph: A Uganda Cob]
+
+[Photograph: By Courtesy of W.D. Boyce The Lordly Eland]
+
+The meat is the most delicious of any of the large antelopes, and the
+skin, when properly cared for, is as soft as kid and as brilliant as
+watered silk. The head is a fine trophy on account of its rich coloring
+rather than because of its horns, which are not particularly graceful in
+curve or proportion, but which are wonderfully ridged.
+
+[Drawing: _Topi_]
+
+I am sure that if I were a beautiful topi with a skin like watered silk
+I should be deeply humiliated to be mistaken for a singing sun hat.
+
+The topi's nearest relations are the sasseby, the tiang, and the
+korrigum. And now you know all about the topi. The game ordinance allows
+the sportsman to kill two topi, and the holder of a license will work
+hard to get his two, for they are splendid trophies.
+
+The duiker is another little antelope that one meets frequently in the
+grassy places of East Africa. It is small, with dark complexion, and
+goes through the high grass in a way that strongly suggests the diving
+of a porpoise at sea. In fact, it gets its Dutch name for that reason,
+_duiker bok_, meaning "diving buck" in Dutch. There are a dozen or more
+different species of duikers, and they may be found scattered all over
+South and East Africa. They are difficult to shoot, for their diving
+habits make them a fleeting target; also their size, about twenty or
+thirty pounds in weight, makes them a small target.
+
+Quite often the little duiker will hide in the grass until you have
+almost stepped on him, and then, if he considers discovery inevitable,
+he will spring away with his little huddled-up back rising and
+disappearing over the grass exactly as the porpoise does in the water.
+One day while we were beating some tall grass for lions, one of the
+porters stepped on a duiker, and its sharp horns, twisting suddenly, cut
+him on the ankle. The horns of the bucks are short and straight, from
+four to six inches long, but most often about four and a half inches.
+
+It would take an expert mathematician to keep track of all the different
+kinds of duikers, for there's the crowned duiker, the yellow-backed
+duiker, the red duiker, Jentink's duiker, Abbott's duiker, the Ituri red
+duiker, the black-faced duiker, Alexander's duiker, the Ruddy duiker,
+Weyn's duiker, Johnston's duiker, Isaac's duiker, Harvey's duiker,
+Roberts' duiker, Leopold's duiker, the white-bellied duiker, the bay
+duiker, the chestnut duiker, the white-lipped duiker, Ogilby's duiker,
+Brooke's duiker, Peter's duiker, the red-flanked duiker, the banded
+duiker, Walker's duiker, the white-faced duiker, the black duiker,
+Maxwell's duiker, the black-rumped duiker, the Uganda duiker, the blue
+duiker, the Nyasa duiker, Heck's duiker, the Urori duiker, Erwin's
+duiker, and I suppose a lot more that the naturalists have not had time
+to catalogue.
+
+[Drawing: _Like a Popular Cemetery_]
+
+One would assume that with all these duikers there would hardly be room
+left in Africa for any other animals. But there is. For instance,
+there's the oribi and the dik-dik, to say nothing of the steinbuck and
+the klipspringer. The last named is a rock-jumping antelope, the others
+little grass antelopes, and all of them are as pretty and cute as
+animals can be. They are all small, the dik-dik being scarcely larger
+than a rabbit, and they are divided into as many subspecies as the
+duiker. A list of the different kinds of oribi would take up several
+lines of valuable space without conveying any illuminating intelligence
+to the lay mind.
+
+We found thousands of oribi on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. You couldn't go
+half a mile in any direction without stirring up large family parties of
+them, and a landscape looked lonely unless one could see a few oribi
+bounding over the ant-hills or rising and falling as they leaped through
+the grass. When we first went into the plateau the grass was long and
+the oribi were for the most part fleeting streaks of yellow over the
+tops of it, but later when we came out the grass had been burned and the
+young, tender grass had spread a green carpet over the plains. Then the
+oribi were visible everywhere, usually in groups of four or six. Also
+the mamma oribis had given birth to bouncing baby oribis, and the sight
+of the little ones was most pleasing to the eyes.
+
+[Drawing: _Mamma and the Little One_]
+
+One day I was hot on the trail of a big waterbuck. The grass was deep at
+that part of the plateau and I was pushing rapidly through it. Suddenly
+one of my gunbearers, who was behind, called out and pointed to
+something in the grass. I hurried back, and there lay a little oribi
+only a few hours old and with big, wondering eyes that looked gravely up
+at me as I bent over it. It was plenty old enough to run and could
+easily have leaped away, but there it lay as tight as if nothing in the
+world could make it budge.
+
+[Photograph: A Museum Specimen Must Be Preserved Entire]
+
+[Photograph: The Eland Is the Largest of the African Antelopes]
+
+The whole thing was as plain as could be. It was acting under
+instructions. I could almost hear the mother of the oribi tell the
+little one when it heard us coming to lay perfectly quiet and not to
+move the least bit until she came back. Then mamma hurried away to
+cover. The little oribi remembered his instructions and followed them
+out to the letter. Its mamma had told it not to move and it hadn't. We
+looked at it a little while and then said good-by and went our way. Some
+place near by an anxious mother oribi was watching us with her heart in
+her mouth, no doubt, and I'm sure that we had not gone many yards before
+she was back to see what had happened to the little one. It was quite an
+exciting adventure for the little oribi and quite incomprehensible to
+the mother that he had emerged from the peril so safely.
+
+Another night I was going out to watch for lions. A bait had been placed
+near the tree where I was stationed and I had some hopes of seeing, if
+not killing, a lion. Night had already fallen, but there was still a
+trace of twilight in the air as I walked through the low scrub trees
+that lay between our camp and the tree, a mile and a half away. As I was
+walking along I heard a loud screaming to my left, and, looking across,
+I saw an oribi trying to beat off two jackals that had seized her young
+baby oribi. The jackals paid little attention to her and she was frantic
+in her efforts to save her little one.
+
+It was too dark to see my sights plainly, but I shot at both of the
+jackals and sent them slinking away. I didn't go over to see if the
+little oribi was still alive, for I was certain that it had been killed.
+If it were dead I didn't want to see it and could not help either it or
+its mother; if it were alive its mother could get it safely away from
+the jackals. Since that moment I have hated jackals above all animals,
+not even excepting the odious hyena, and it is the chief regret of my
+hunting experience in East Africa that I did not kill those two cowardly
+vandals.
+
+When the American reader picks up his paper and reads that Colonel
+Roosevelt has shot a Uganda cob, it is quite natural that he should not
+know what kind of a thing a cob is. If the colonel was out shooting
+"singing topis" or "singing sun hats," why, then, should he not also
+shoot corn cobs or cob pipes?
+
+The cob, sometimes spelled kob, however, is only an antelope, although a
+graceful and handsome one. It is divided into several subspecies which
+live in different parts of the country. In one part will be found the
+large cob, almost the size of a waterbuck, which is called Mrs. Gray's
+cob, in honor of the wife of one of the former keepers in the London
+zoo; in another part is the species known as Vaughan's cob, and in still
+other parts are the dusky cob, the puku cob, the lechwi cob, the black
+lechwi, the Uganda cob and Buffon's cob.
+
+It was Lady Constance Stewart-Richardson, the remarkable young English
+woman who is now dancing barefooted on the London music stage, who
+killed the record head of this last named species in Nigeria.
+
+[Drawing: _The Gregarious Cob_]
+
+It is of the Uganda cob only that I am able to write about from my own
+observation and experience. We found them only in one place, on the
+banks of the Nzoia River near Mount Elgon and the Uganda border. They
+never were more than four or five hundred yards from the river and could
+not be driven away. If they were startled at one point they would circle
+around and quickly get back to the river at some other point. They
+seemed to become homesick unless they could see the river near by. We
+found them only in a short stretch of five or six miles, although they
+doubtless are found all the way down the Nzoia River to Victoria Nyanza.
+
+The cob is a curiously reliable animal. He likes one certain place that
+he is accustomed to, and nothing can drive him away. If you see him
+there one afternoon, you are reasonably certain of coming back the next
+afternoon and seeing him there again. Usually they graze in some
+sheltered meadow along the river's edge, and for recreation, so far as I
+could see, amuse themselves by seeing how many can get on top of one
+ant-hill at one time. Some of those ant-hills were literally bristling
+with cobs, one male to each five females, and in herds of from thirty to
+fifty.
+
+In architecture, the cob is nearly three feet high at the shoulder, has
+beautiful, sweeping horns of a lyrate shape, has a white patch around
+each eye, a white belly, and a coat of yellow with black on the
+forelegs. There is no handsomer antelope in Africa than the Uganda cob,
+and because it is found in such a restricted and remote district is
+accountable for the fact that one seldom sees a cob head in a collection
+of horns. Comparatively few sportsmen have killed them, although they
+are not hard to kill if one reaches a district where they are found. The
+extreme beauty of this antelope led us to secure a group of them for the
+Field Museum.
+
+The reedbuck is another of the smaller antelopes that carries a
+beautiful head, and, like nearly all of the antelopes, comes in many
+varieties, or subspecies.
+
+[Photograph: A Wounded Wart Hog]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce A Grass Fire]
+
+[Photograph: A Maribou Stork]
+
+Our own relations with the reedbuck were limited to the high altitudes
+near the Mau escarpment and the broad, rolling, grassy downs along the
+numerous streams of the Guas Ngishu Plateau. This subspecies is called
+the Uganda race of the bohor reedbuck--sometimes abbreviated to "bohor."
+If you say you've shot a "bohor" you will be understood to mean a bohor
+reedbuck.
+
+[Drawing: _Reedbuck_]
+
+You will find the reedbuck in the tall reeds and bulrushes of the swamps
+and low places, where he finds good cover and good feeding; and also you
+will find him along the low, undulating, grass-covered hills near his
+water supply. In the heat of the day they are up in the tall grass,
+where they remain until along in the afternoon. They lie close, and, if
+discovered, will dart off with neck outstretched in such a way as to
+make it difficult to tell which is male and which female.
+
+I have also seen the females use every means for protecting their lords
+and masters, standing up before them as they lie secreted in the grass
+and seeking to divert the attention of the hunter from the bucks to
+themselves. This desire to protect the male is common to many of the
+antelope family, and numberless times I have seen a band of does attempt
+to screen the male and shield him from harm.
+
+The reedbuck never travels in large numbers, seldom more than two or
+three, or at most, five or six, being bunched together.
+
+[Drawing: _They Watched While the Buck Ran Away_]
+
+We had most of our reedbuck experiences while driving swamps for lions.
+On these occasions many reedbuck would be driven out of the cover of the
+reeds and rushes, and go crashing up the slopes leading away from the
+swamp. On one occasion a reedbuck lay so close that it did not stir
+until one of the beaters was almost upon it, when it sprang up, nearly
+knocking him over, and escaped behind the skirmish line of beaters. At
+other times, after the skirmish line apparently had traversed every foot
+of a swamp, reedbuck would spring up after the line had passed, thus
+illustrating how close they can lie and how effectually they can escape
+detection.
+
+The reedbuck has short horns, usually between seven and ten inches in
+length, but one of our party secured one set of horns ten and a quarter
+inches long--an exceptionally fine head. The reedbuck's distinguishing
+characteristic is a sharp whistle, which he sounds shrilly when alarmed.
+
+Another beautiful antelope that we met in small numbers on the Tana
+River and on the Guas Ngihsu Plateau was the bushbuck, found in thick
+scrub along rivers and also in the swamps and wet places. This animal
+belongs to a select little coterie of highly prized and rare antelopes,
+all of which have the distinguishing feature of a spiral horn.
+
+The bushbuck is the smallest, and is found over nearly all of East
+Africa except upon the open plains and deserts. The females are of a
+dark chestnut color, and the males dark, almost black, with white
+markings on the neck and forelegs. A bushbuck with fifteen-inch horns is
+considered a fine prize, although horns of nineteen inches are on
+record.
+
+The other members of the same family of spiral-horned antelopes are the
+kudu, the lesser kudu, the situtunga, the nyala, the bongo, and the
+lordly eland, king of all antelopes in size. The kudu is largely
+protected in East Africa, and in my shooting experience I was not in a
+district where he was to be found. The same was true with respect to the
+lesser kudu. The nyala is a South African species and is not to be found
+in British East Africa. The situtunga is a swamp dweller and is found
+chiefly in Uganda and, to my knowledge, infrequently in the East African
+protectorate.
+
+The bongo is to the white sportsman what the north pole has been to
+explorers for centuries. In all records of game shooting there has been,
+until recently, only one white man who has killed a bongo, although the
+Wanderobo dwellers of the deep forests have killed many.
+
+The bongo lives in the densest part of dense forests, can drive his way
+through the worst tangle of vegetation, and has a hearing and eyesight
+so keen that usually he sees the hunter long before the latter sees him.
+A hunt after bongo means long hours or even days of hunting the forests,
+with hardships of travel so disheartening that comparatively few white
+sportsmen attempt to go in after the elusive antelope. Kermit Roosevelt,
+however, with the good fortune that has followed his hunting adventures,
+succeeded in killing a cow and calf bongo after only a few hours of
+hunting with a Wanderobo.
+
+A few days after I heard of this piece of good luck I was traveling
+across Victoria Nyanza on one of the little steamers that ply the lake.
+My cabin mate was a stoical Englishman who told me quite calmly that he
+had just killed a large bull bongo a few days before. He had been
+visiting Lord Delamere, and after a few hours in the forest had
+succeeded in doing what only two white men had done before.
+
+The Englishman who had this good luck was George Grey, a brother of Sir
+Edward Grey, one of the present cabinet ministers of England.
+
+[Drawing: _Eland_]
+
+The eland is the largest of all antelopes, and we ran across a few on
+the Tana River and a few on the Guas Ngishu Plateau. Under the old game
+ordinance the sportsman was allowed to kill one bull eland; under the
+new ordinance he is allowed to kill none except in certain restricted
+districts and by special license. The eland is as big as a bull, with
+spiral horns and beautifully marked skin, and both the male and female
+carry horns. Those of the latter are usually larger and slenderer, but
+the skin of the female is not so handsomely marked as that of the male.
+
+It is hard to get near an eland, but as the bull is nearly six feet high
+at the shoulders it is not especially difficult to hit him at three
+hundred yards or more. The one I shot was three hundred and sixty-five
+yards away and carried beautiful horns, twenty-four and one-quarter
+inches in length. The head of the great bull eland makes a wonderfully
+imposing trophy when placed in your baronial halls.
+
+In the foregoing list of antelopes I have tried to tell a little about
+the types of that class of animal that I met in my African travels--in
+all, sixteen species of antelope. My chief excuse for doing it is to
+enable people at home to know the difference between a topi and a sun
+hat and between a sing-sing and a cob. The names of many of the African
+antelope family are strange and confusing, so that it is little wonder
+that they mystify people in America. There are a hundred or more kinds,
+and no one can hope to know them unless he makes a business of it.
+
+I have not seen the grysbok, or the suni, or the dibitag, or the lechwi,
+or the aoul, or the gerenuk, or the blaauwbok, or the chevrotain, or
+lots of others, but who in the world could guess what they were or what
+they looked like, judging only from the names?
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+IN THE TALL GRASS OF THE MOUNT ELGON COUNTRY. A NARROW ESCAPE FROM A
+LONG-HORNED RHINO. A THANKSGIVING DINNER AND A VISIT TO A NATIVE VILLAGE
+
+
+Mount Elgon is one of the four great mountains of Africa. You can find
+it on the map of the dark continent, standing all alone, just a little
+bit north of Victoria Nyanza, and surrounded by names that one has never
+heard of before.
+
+The mountain is distinctly out of the picture-post-card belt--in fact,
+the only belt that one will find around Elgon is the timber belt that
+encircles the mountain, and perhaps also a few that the local residents
+wear on Sundays and national holidays.
+
+The function of the latter class of belt is to keep up a gay appearance.
+It is worn for looks, not warmth.
+
+The traveler who goes to Mount Elgon will not be distracted by sounds of
+civilization, except such as he takes with him. He will travel for days
+without seeing a sign of human life beyond his own following. The
+country west of the Nzoia River is uninhabited and is abandoned to the
+elephant and the giraffe and other animals that care not for the madding
+crowd. Thomas Cook and Son have not yet penetrated that district with
+schedules and time cards and luggage labels; so if your purpose in
+traveling is to get a grand assortment of stickers on your trunks and
+hand-bags, it is useless to include Mount Elgon in your itinerary.
+
+There will be days of marching through high grass, often so deep as
+almost to bury yourself and your horse; hours of delay at marshy rivers
+densely choked with a tangle of riotous vegetation, and much groping
+about in a trackless waste for a suitable course to follow.
+
+Owing to intertribal warfare the Elgon district has been closed for some
+time and it has only been during the last year or so that hunting
+parties have again been allowed to enter. Since that time a number of
+parties have been in, the Duke of Alba among the first, and later Doctor
+Rainsford, Frederick Selous and, Mr. McMillan, Captain Ashton, the Duke
+of Penaranda, Mr. Roosevelt, and a few others. Colonel Roosevelt went
+only as far as the Nzoia River, but most of the others crossed and swung
+up along the northeastern slopes of the mountain where elephants are
+most frequently found.
+
+Our party decided to take the southern slope, notwithstanding we were
+warned that we might find the natives troublesome and treacherous. We
+were also warned that we should be going through an untraveled district
+where there were no trails and where native guides could not be secured.
+
+[Photograph: A Native Granary]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Chair Is a Sure Sign of
+Rank]
+
+Nevertheless we started and brilliantly blundered into some most
+diverting adventures.
+
+The first day's march after crossing the Nzoia River was through scrub
+country and what we considered high grass. The next day we struck _real_
+high grass! It was so deep that we had to burrow through it. Only the
+helmets of those on horseback marked where the caravan was passing. The
+long line of porters carrying their burdens were buried from view. It
+was a terrible place to meet a rhino and perhaps for that very reason we
+promptly proceeded to meet one.
+
+We were riding ahead, followed by the cook and the tent boys, and behind
+them was the long string of a hundred or more porters, askaris, _totos_,
+and so forth. The end of the line was some hundred yards behind the
+head. Suddenly there was a wild cry of "_faru!_" (rhino).
+
+It was disconcerting, but after one or two hurried and flurried moments
+we got our heavy batteries in readiness and prepared to sell his life as
+cheaply as possible. But no rhino came. The grass was too deep to have
+seen him if he had come, but we thought it was well to have a reception
+committee ready just the same.
+
+Then the rear ranks began to telescope into the front ranks. They came
+forward two or three jumps at a time. They were visibly perturbed, but
+presently they recovered enough to give expert testimony.
+
+A huge rhino had been in the grass by the trail as we came along and had
+waited until the whole line had passed. Then he jumped into the trail
+and charged furiously after the porters. The latter, severally,
+collectively, and frantically, leaped for their lives, dropping packs
+and uttering hurried appeals to Allah.
+
+[Drawing: _He Estimated the Length at Four Feet_]
+
+After scattering a few dozen of the rank and file from his line of march
+the rhino veered off and plunged out of sight in the tall grass. One of
+the porters whose veracity is unquestioned by those who don't know him
+estimated the forward horn to be four feet long. He said the rhino
+charged earnestly and with hostile intent.
+
+A rhino charging a _safari_ is always a pleasing diversion--pleasing
+after it's all over and diverting while it lasts. The cry of "_faru_" is
+a good deal like "car coming" at an automobile race. Instantly everybody
+is all attention, with the attention equally divided between the rhino
+and the nearest tree. If there is no tree the interest in the rhino
+becomes more acute.
+
+The thought of being impaled _en brochette_ on the horn of a rhino is
+one of the least attractive forms of mental exertion that I know of. It
+is a close second to the thought of being stepped on by a herd of
+elephants marching single file.
+
+Well, we survived the charge of the heavy brigade, and then moved
+onward, ever and anon casting an alert glance at the deep clumps of
+thicket along the way. Fortunately no more rhinos appeared and the next
+thing we struck was Thanksgiving Day.
+
+The proper way to celebrate that deservedly popular holiday is not by
+sitting in tall grass with a can of beans and a bottle of pickles in the
+foreground. This is said with all respect to the manufacturers of beans
+and pickles who may advertise in the papers.
+
+For a time, however, beans and pickles seemed to be the nearest outlook
+for us, but after a while the cook, whose nerves had been shaken by the
+impetuous advance of the rhino, arose to the demands of the occasion and
+set up a table upon which soon appeared some hot tea, some bread and
+honey, some beans and deviled ham, and a few knickknacks in the line of
+jam and cheese. That was luncheon, and we resolved to do better for
+dinner.
+
+We told the cook all about Thanksgiving Day and what its chief purpose
+was. We also told him of the beautiful significance of the occasion,
+what happy thoughts it inspired, and how much sentiment was attached to
+it. Then we told him to get busy. We were in a Thanksgiving mood, being
+grateful that we were not riding around on the bowsprit of the rhino,
+and also because our relatives and friends at home were well at last
+reports, two months old.
+
+True, our guide, who had never been over the trail before and who was
+trying to guess the way by instinct, had got us hopelessly becalmed in a
+sea of high grass so that we didn't know where we were. But we knew what
+we were. We were hungry!
+
+In the meantime we planned and carried into brilliant execution a grouse
+hunt. There were lots of grouse in the country through which we had come
+and all day long coveys of them had been whirring away from our
+advancing outposts. It seemed a simple thing to go out and get a few for
+our Thanksgiving dinner, so we gave orders to make camp and consecrated
+the afternoon to a grouse quest.
+
+I'll never forget what a formidable looking party it was. When we had
+spread out to comb the grass by the river side we looked like a skirmish
+line of an army. There were four of us, supported by seventeen
+gunbearers and porters. Our battery consisted of four elephant guns,
+four heavy rifles, three light rifles, and four shotguns. The latter
+were for grouse and the others were for incidental big game which one
+must always be prepared for, whether one goes out to shoot grouse or
+take snapshots with one's camera.
+
+[Drawing: _The Grouse Hunt_]
+
+We spread out and beat two miles of perfect cover. Then we beat it back
+again and finally, after all our Herculean efforts, one lonely bird flew
+up and was knocked over. That was the astounding total of our slaughter
+and when the army marched back into camp with its one little grouse the
+effect was laughable in the extreme. I took a photograph of the entire
+group and by good luck the grouse is faintly seen suspended in the
+middle.
+
+That night, with the camp-fires burning and with our tents almost buried
+in the tall grass, we celebrated Thanksgiving in a way that must have
+made old Lucullus fidget in his mausoleum. The wealth of the plains was
+compelled to yield tribute to our table; eland, grouse and Uganda cob
+appeared and disappeared as if by magic; the vast storehouses of Europe
+and America poured their treasures upon our groaning board, and one by
+one we safely put away succulent lengths of asparagus, cakes and
+chocolate, wine and olives, pickles and honey, nuts and cheese, plum
+pudding and coffee, and soup and salad, all in their proper sequence and
+in sufficient quantities to go round and round.
+
+A soft moon shone down from the velvet sky and the trees of the river
+bed were bathed in white moonlight as we sat by the great camp-fire and
+smoked and talked and dreamed of the folk at home.
+
+It was an unusual occasion, one that called for a special dispensation
+in the way of late hours, so it was almost nine when we turned in and
+dreamed of armies of rhinos playing battledore and shuttlecock with our
+bulging forms. It was a great dinner, and to be on the safe side we
+complimented the cook before we went to bed.
+
+[Photograph: A Group of Ketosh Ladies]
+
+[Photograph: Nearly Buried in Grass]
+
+[Photograph: Building a Grass House]
+
+A day or two later, after blindly floundering about in a sea of waving
+grass for miles and miles, and getting more and more hopelessly lost, we
+stumbled upon signs of human habitation. The first sign was a great
+stretch of valley in which a number of smoke columns were ascending.
+Where there's smoke there's folk, we thought, patting ourselves on the
+back for cleverness. We knew we were approaching fresh eggs and
+chickens.
+
+A little later we came upon another sign of human agitation. Over a rise
+in a hill we saw a large spear, and in a few minutes we overhauled a
+native guarding a herd of cattle. He carried a spear and a shield, and
+over his shoulders he wore a loose dressing sack that hung down nearly
+to his armpits. Civilization had touched him lightly, in fact it had
+barely waved at him as it brushed by.
+
+We tried him with several languages--Swahili, Kikuyu, the language of
+flowers, American, Masai, and the sign language, none of which he was
+conversant with. Then we tried a relay system of dialects which
+established a vague, syncopated kind of intellectual contact. One of our
+porters spoke Kavirondo, so he held converse with the far from handsome
+stranger, translated it into Swahili, and this was retranslated into
+English for our benefit.
+
+The stranger was a Ketosh. We didn't know what a Ketosh was, but it
+sounded more like something in the imperative mood than anything
+ethnological. It developed later in the day, however, that a Ketosh is a
+member of the tribe of that name, and their habitat is on the southern
+slopes of Elgon.
+
+[Drawing: _Lady and Gentleman Ketosh_]
+
+The Ketoshites, or Ketoshians, as the case may be, are a cattle- and
+sheep-raising tribe. In other words, a tribe in which the women do all
+the manual labor while the men folk sit on a hillside with a shield and
+spear and watch the herds partake of nourishment. They are the standing
+army.
+
+[Drawing: _The Standing Army Sat Around All Day_]
+
+We followed the man with the spear to a little village hard by. The
+village, like all the numerous other ones that we came to in the next
+few days, was inclosed in a zareba, or wall of tangled thorn branches
+that encircled the village. Within the wall were a number of low houses,
+six feet high, built of mud and wattle; and within the houses, spilling
+over plentifully, were large numbers of children and babies and a few
+women. A gateway of tangled boughs led into the inclosure, while in one
+part of the village were the curious woven wickerwork granaries in which
+the community store of kaffir corn is kept. There were no street signs
+on the lamp posts, probably because there were no streets and no lamp
+posts.
+
+In the first village all the men were away, evidently waiting to see
+whether our visit was a hostile or a peaceful one.
+
+We soon established ourselves on a peace footing and after that the
+warriors began to appear out of the tall grass in large numbers from all
+points of the compass. They all carried spears and shields, neither of
+which they would sell for love or money. At least they wouldn't for
+money. We resolved not to try the other unless the worst came to the
+worst and we had to fall back on it as a last desperate measure. I
+suppose they didn't know how soon they might need their weapons, and we
+heard that the sultan had just sent out a positive order forbidding them
+to sell their means of defense.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Ketosh Are Gracefully
+Nonchalant]
+
+[Photograph: Little Shelters of Mud and Sticks]
+
+[Photograph: A Family Party]
+
+The first procedure when entering a district where the natives may be
+unfriendly is to send out for the chief, or sultan, as he is known in
+Africa. There is always a sultan to preside over the destinies of his
+tribe and to take any money that happens along. So we sent for the
+sultan, who was off in a neighboring village, so they said. After a long
+wait, during which we pitched our camp and offered a golden reward for
+eggs and chickens, a sultan drifted in.
+
+[Drawing: _Slowly Being Cremated_]
+
+We knew he was sultan because he carried a chair--an unfailing sign of
+rank among a nation of expert sitters. He also wore an old woolen
+dressing gown that had worked its way from civilization many years
+before. It was built for arctic regions, but the sultan of all the
+Ketoshians wore it right straight through the ardent hours when the sun
+kisses one with the fiery passion of a mustard plaster. He was slowly
+being cremated and it was fascinating to watch him sizzle.
+
+After the sultan came and seated himself with his retinue of spearmen
+(dressed in the altogether save for the futile cloth around their
+shoulders) grouped around him we took our seats and began a _shauri_.
+
+_Shauri_ (rhyming with Bow'ry) is a native word meaning a powwow or a
+parley and is a word that works overtime. Everything that you do in
+Africa has to be preceded by a _shauri_. You have a _shauri_ if you ask
+a native which road to take. Other natives hurry up, and then you stand
+around and talk about it for an hour or so.
+
+If you want to buy a chicken or a cluster of eggs there must first be a
+prolonged _shauri_ with much interchange of views and conversation and
+aerated persiflage. The native loves his _shauri_, and if he asks you a
+certain price for a chicken and you give the price without haggling he
+is greatly disappointed. In fact I have often seen them offer an article
+for a certain price and then refuse to accept the money if it is at once
+tendered. Later the native will accept much less if the _shauri_ goes
+with it.
+
+Well, we had _shauris_ to burn for a couple of days. As soon as the
+first sultan had departed with presents and words of good cheer there
+was a flock of other sultans that hurried in to receive presents and to
+assist in _shauris_. They came from far and near, and they all carried
+chairs, thus proving that they were not impostors; and the worst of it
+was that we couldn't find out exactly which was the real, most exalted
+sultan of the bunch. Hence we had to give presents to many who perhaps
+were only amateur or 'prentice sultans, sultans whose domains were only
+a little village of half a dozen families.
+
+[Drawing: _The Camp Was Clogged with Sultans_]
+
+For two days our camp was clogged with _shauris_ and sultans sitting
+around. We couldn't step out of our tents without stumbling over a
+sultan or two. When we would take our baths in our tents there would be
+sultans and warriors peeping in modestly from all sides. There was not a
+secret of our inner life that remained intact. Even the ladies, from the
+banana-bellied little girls of five and six up to the leathery-limbed
+old matrons, inclusive, were not above a feminine curiosity in things
+which doubtless interested them, but didn't concern them. The standing
+army of the Ketoshians sat around all day wearing out the grass and
+being frequently stumbled over.
+
+If we asked a sultan if there were any elephants in the neighborhood it
+meant at least fifteen minutes of loose conversation through a relay of
+interpreters, with the final answer boiled down to a "no" in English.
+For a language that has only a few words like _shauri_, _backsheesh_,
+_apana_, and _chukula_ the native lingo is a most elastic one.
+
+There were two or three things that we had come to Mount Elgon for and
+about which we desired information. The first was "elephants," and we
+found, after hours of talk, that there was none in the vicinity.
+Secondly, we wanted to get food for our men, and thirdly, we wanted
+guides to take us up to the ancient cave-dwellings in the mountain and
+more guides to take us up to the top of the mountain itself.
+
+It seemed almost impossible to get satisfactory information upon either
+of the last two subjects. The natives didn't want to part with their
+grain, while for their cattle they asked outrageous prices. We were
+almost tempted to boycott them by stopping eating meat for two months.
+They also seemed reluctant to let us have guides to take us up to the
+caves and none of them seemed to know the trails that led up into the
+forests and the heights of the mountain. It was evident that only a few
+ever had been up the mountain upon the slopes of which they had spent
+their lives.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. At the Entrance of the Great
+Cave]
+
+[Photograph: There Were Granaries in the Cave]
+
+[Photograph: In One of the Elgon Caves]
+
+We began to think that they wanted us to stay in their village just so
+they could have the pleasure of their daily _shauris_.
+
+Finally one sultan promised to get us guides and accepted a generous
+present on the strength of it; but when the time came he failed to
+produce them. It was at precisely this point, to be strictly accurate,
+that we abandoned the polite phraseology of the court and told him with
+many exclamation points that he would have to guide us himself or we
+would take steps to dethrone him. Of course, all of this had to be
+strained through two interpreters, but even then I think he caught the
+gist of it. He said that he himself would guide us to the nearest and
+largest cave.
+
+We told him that we would be ready to start immediately after luncheon.
+Only ourselves and a few men to carry cameras and guns were to
+constitute our party, the rest of the _safari_ remaining in camp, from
+which certain embassies were sent out to buy grain for the porters'
+food.
+
+Soon after lunch the sultan arrived and we marched away. Little by
+little groups of his janissaries, mamelukes, and other members of his
+official entourage joined us and by the time we reached the slope
+leading up to the great cave-dwelling we had quite an imposing
+procession. Most of the natives were armed with spears and knives, and
+some of them had painted their bodies with red dirt and mutton grease,
+and when this coating had partly dried they had traced with their
+fingers many designs in stripes down their arms and legs. Some were a
+light mauve in color, but most were of a rich chocolate brown. The
+effect of these designs was rather pretty, but the dripping red oil from
+their hair was not pretty and on a hot day exuded a strong, overpowering
+odor.
+
+Above us, nearly a thousand feet from where we stood, boldly visible in
+the face of the great cliff, was the broad ledge and black opening of
+the cave. A short distance to the right of it was a bright waterfall,
+looking like a ribbon, but in reality quite broad and dropping in three
+stages several hundred feet. An incline of forty-five degrees led up to
+the cave, while up beyond that was the great stratum of solid rock that
+extends for miles along the south of Mount Elgon and which is
+honey-combed with hundreds of prehistoric cave-dwellings. A determined
+foe stationed at the mouth of any one of the caves could defend it
+against an enormous attacking force.
+
+It was nearly an hour's climb to the ledge where the cave entrance
+appeared. Several naked men armed with spears stood upon the rocks,
+outlined in bold and striking relief against the velvety blackness of
+the cave entrance. They appeared curious but not unfriendly as we
+breathlessly panted our way on to the ledge where they stood waiting,
+spears in hand.
+
+[Drawing: _Like a Great Stage_]
+
+Our first impression was one of gasping wonderment. We seemed to stand
+upon a great stage of an immensity which words can not describe. It was
+a stage proportioned for giants. The rock prosscenium arched above us
+seventy feet and the stage was nearly two hundred feet wide. As an
+audience chamber one could look out over twenty-five thousand square
+miles of Central Africa.
+
+The dimensions and the imposing magnitude of the place almost took one's
+breath away. Two regiments of soldiers could have marched upon that
+stage. There was even room for a squadron of cavalry to manoeuver.
+Upon the well-beaten floor were the tracks of cattle, showing that from
+time immemorial the cave people had driven in their herds for shelter or
+for safety in times of tribal warfare; and in places the solid rock was
+worn smooth and deep by the bare feet of centuries of naked people.
+
+And yet, in spite of the titanic proportions of the cave, there was
+something quite homelike about it. It almost suggested a prosperous
+farm-yard. There were chickens walking about, with little chickens
+trotting alongside. There were wickerwork graneries standing here and
+there, while around the inner edge of the great entrance hall were
+little mud and stick woven houses five feet high, which gave the effect
+of a small village street.
+
+From the front of the stage back to the row of little houses was a
+distance of about one hundred feet. By stooping down one could enter one
+of the little openings, to be surprised to find himself in another
+little farm-yard where cattle had been housed and where there were many
+evidences of the thrift and industry of the occupants. Gourds of milk
+were present in generous numbers, and as one's eyes became accustomed to
+the semi-darkness all sorts of domestic paraphernalia were revealed.
+
+Little separate inclosures were fenced off for human tenantry, and the
+glow of embers gave a pleasant, homelike look to the place. Cavern after
+cavern extended back into the cliff, a network of them, but how far they
+went would be hard to tell. Perhaps the cave in all its subterranean
+ramifications has never been entirely explored.
+
+We wandered back through some of the caverns, sometimes stooping to get
+through and sometimes standing beneath domes thirty and forty feet high.
+And always that queer, mystical light, with exaggerated shadows and
+sometimes black darkness ahead, where could be heard the drip, drip,
+drip of water in invisible lakes. In time of siege the holders of this
+cave, with granaries filled and with herds of cattle and lakes of water,
+could hold the place for ever.
+
+The tenants of the place soon became pleasant and hospitable. Perhaps
+many of them had never seen white people before, but they sat down and
+watched us with friendly interest. There were many babies and they were
+all bright-eyed and rugged looking.
+
+While we were there the cattle were out on the open hills grazing, but
+in the evening the long herds are driven up to their airy stronghold and
+made snug for the night. And who knows but that a great herd of cattle
+would add much to the heat of the cave and make its nearly naked tenants
+forget that they were high on the chilly slopes of one of Africa's
+greatest mountains?
+
+They certainly do not dress warm. Around their arms and legs are all
+sorts of brass and nickel wire wound in scores of circles. Chains of
+wire and necklaces of beads encircle the women's throats and elephant
+ivory armlets are often clasped about the arms so tight that it would
+seem that the natural circulation would be hopelessly retarded. But they
+must be healthy, these people who go about with only a thin sheet of
+dyed cotton thrown about them, while we northerners shivered with
+sweaters and warm woolen things about us.
+
+It's all a case of getting used to it, just as it is a case of getting
+used to seeing people frankly and unconsciously naked, as many of these
+people are. But after a while one even gets used to seeing them so and
+regards their nakedness as one would regard the nakedness of animals.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN SIDE FROM THE KETOSH VILLAGE TO THE GREAT CAVE
+OF BATS. A DRAMATIC EPISODE WITH THE FINDING OF A BLACK BABY AS A CLIMAX
+
+
+For days we had heard of wonderful places higher up in the mountain. The
+information had been so vague and uncertain we hardly knew whether to
+credit the reports or simply put them down as native folk lore or
+superstition. One night we interviewed Askar, one of the Somali
+gunbearers.
+
+He said he had been up the mountain a year or two before with a
+Frenchman who wanted to see the mysterious natural wonders of Mount
+Elgon. The Frenchman had to threaten to kill his native guides before
+they would consent to lead him up in the cold heights of the mountain to
+show him the places that filled the native imagination with such fear
+and superstitious dread.
+
+There was one place, Askar said, where the water boiled out of the
+ground far, far up in the mountain heights, and any native who looked at
+it fell dead. Askar said he went up and looked at it through the
+glasses, and then ran away.
+
+All this queer information came out at one of our evening camp-fire
+_shauris_. The great central camp-fire of a _safari_ is usually in front
+of the tents of the _msungu_, or white people, and around it in the
+evening the _msungu_ discuss the adventures of the day and the plans for
+the morrow. Each night Abdi, the _neapara_ or head-man, comes up to get
+his instructions for the next morning, and soon afterward Abdullah, the
+cook, appears and waits for his orders for the breakfast hour.
+
+Abdullah is the color of night, and no one ever sees him approach or go
+away. He simply appears and often stands only a few feet away before any
+one is aware of his presence. And even after he speaks, one sees only a
+row of white teeth looming up five feet above the ground. If any
+important matters are to be adjusted it is usually at the camp-fire that
+the things are settled. If punishment is to be meted out to a
+transgressor, it is there that the trial is held and judgment rendered.
+
+Well, on, this night as we sat talking by the camp-fire, Abdi, our
+head-man, suddenly appeared and squatted down. Soon after up came Askar,
+who also squatted down, and we knew that we were in for some unusual
+sort of a _shauri_. It was then that Askar told of the strange mystery
+of the mountain.
+
+[Photograph: Curious as to Our Home Life]
+
+[Photograph: On the Rim of the Crater]
+
+[Photograph: A Birthday Dinner]
+
+"Askar says," spoke Abdi, interpreting Askar's imperfect English, "that
+up in the mountain there is a big door and a great cave. He went up with
+a Frenchman, and the guides refused to go. Then the Frenchman threatened
+to kill them if they would not go. They were frightened, because all the
+natives die who go to the big door and see the boiling fountain through
+the door. Askar say all the natives ran away, but the Frenchman go on."
+
+"Did Askar see the door?"
+
+"Askar says he see the door and he see the fountain through some
+glasses. Then he ran away."
+
+[Drawing: _Camp in the Forest_]
+
+"Can Askar take us up to the cave and the big door?"
+
+There was then a long discussion in Somali between Askar and Abdi, which
+finally was briefly rendered into English. Askar would show us the way.
+
+We then sent for the sultan of the Ketosh tribe and interviewed him. He
+was singularly reticent about the subject, and both he and the other
+natives called in used all their crude intelligence to discourage any
+attempt to go up into those districts that were so full of strange,
+forbidding influences. They said there were no trails, and when we said
+we would go anyway, they said there was a trail, but that it was so
+tangled with undergrowth and vines that one had to creep through it,
+like an animal. We still said we would go, and told the sultan to get us
+guides, for which we would pay well.
+
+All this happened while we were in the Ketosh village that lies on the
+slope of the mountain just beneath the great rock wall, a thousand feet
+high, whose upper rim is honeycombed with the ancient caves of the
+aborigines. For days we had stopped there, endeavoring to get food and
+guides, and for days the sultan and his people had placed every obstacle
+in the way of our ascending higher the mysterious and comparatively
+unknown mountain. The great rock escarpment shut off the view of the
+peaks beyond, but we felt that if once we could scale the first
+precipitous slope we would find traveling much easier on the gentle
+slope of the mountain.
+
+At last, after persuasion, threats, money, and pleading had in turn been
+tried, the sultan brought his son and said that his son would guide us.
+
+The son was the craftiest and crookedest looking native I had seen in
+Africa. After one look at him, you were filled with such distrust and
+suspicion that you would hardly believe him if he said he thought it was
+going to rain, or that crops were looking up.
+
+With this man as a guide, and with four more who were tempted by the
+bright red blankets we gave, our caravan started on one of the strangest
+and perhaps most foolhardy trips that presumably sane people ever made.
+In the first place, probably fewer than half a dozen white men had ever
+ascended Mount Elgon. There were no adequate maps of the region, and the
+one we had was woefully inaccurate. It was made as if from telegraphic
+description, and the only thing in which it proved trustworthy was that
+there was a mountain there and that it was about fourteen thousand two
+hundred feet high, and that the line separating British East Africa from
+Uganda ran through the crater at the top.
+
+Our delay at the Ketosh village had greatly reduced our food supplies
+for the porters, and there was only enough left to last six days. In
+that time we should have to ascend the mountain and descend to some
+place where food supplies could be procured. It all looked quite
+quixotic. We bought two bullocks, a sheep, and a goat, and, with our
+guides ahead, our entire _safari_ of over a hundred souls turned toward
+the grim heights that shot up before us.
+
+[Drawing: _Up to the Rim of the Crater_]
+
+The trail for the first thousand feet of ascent was steep and hard to
+climb. The rocks high above us were specked with natives, who gazed down
+in wonder at the strange spectacle. These were the cave-dwellers. After
+an hour or more we reached the crest of the rim and then continued
+through elephant grass ten feet high, then dense forest, and finally
+through miles of clean, cool, shadowy bamboos--always steadily climbing.
+The trail was fairly good and our progress was encouraging.
+
+[Photograph: In the Belt of Bamboo]
+
+[Photograph: Giant Cactus Growth In the Crater]
+
+[Photograph: Up Twelve Thousand Feet in the Crater]
+
+There were many elephant pits in the bamboo forest, but they were all
+ancient ones, half-filled with decayed leaves and obviously unused for
+half a century or more. From some of them fairly large-sized trees had
+grown. Sometimes in the midst of these great, silent, light-green
+forests we came upon giant trees, tangled and gnarled, with trunks
+twenty or thirty feet in circumference. In vain we looked for the
+impassable trail the natives had warned us to expect.
+
+Late in the afternoon we came to a wonderful cave, over the mouth of
+which a wonderful fan-shaped waterfall dropped seventy feet or more. My
+aneroid barometer indicated an elevation of eighty-two hundred feet,
+showing that we had climbed twenty-seven hundred feet since morning. We
+found a little clearing in the bamboo forest and pitched our tents on
+ground that sloped down like the roof of a house. The clearing was
+barely fifty yards long, yet our twenty or more tents were pitched, our
+horses tethered in the middle, and the camp-fires crackled merrily as
+the chill air of night came down upon us. From the forest came the
+multitude of sounds that told of strange birds and animals that were out
+on their nocturnal hunt for food.
+
+Early in the morning the _safari_ was sent on with the guides while we
+remained to explore the cave. It was an immense cavern, with an entrance
+hall, or foyer, about thirty feet high and a hundred feet in length.
+Along the inner edge were the crumbling remains of little mud and wattle
+huts that had been occupied by people a long time before. Beyond this
+great entrance hall were passages that led into other vast, echoing
+caverns with domes like those of a cathedral.
+
+Countless thousands of bats darted about us as our voices broke the
+silence of ages, and in places the deposits of bats were two or three
+feet deep. It staggered one's senses to think how long these creatures
+had dwelt within the labyrinth of caverns and passageways.
+
+We explored the cave for a quarter of a mile or so, stumbling, stooping,
+climbing, and sliding down precipitous slopes. Far off in the darkness
+sounded the steady drip, drip, drip of water, and several times our
+progress was stopped by black lakes into which a tossed stone would tell
+of depths that might be almost bottomless. We fired our shotguns and the
+loosened dirt and rocks and the thunder of thousands of bats' wings were
+enough to terrify the senses.
+
+There is no telling how many centuries or ages these caverns have stood
+as they stand to-day. Doubtless the wild tribes of the mountain have
+occupied them for thousands of years, and doubtless a thousand years
+from now the descendants of these tribes of people and bats will still
+be there in the cisternlike caverns with the broad fan of sparkling
+water spreading like a beautiful curtain across the great archway of an
+entrance.
+
+That night, after hours of climbing through great forests and across
+grassy slopes gay with countless varieties of beautiful and strange
+flowers, we pitched our camp on a wind-swept height eleven thousand feet
+up. The peaks of the mountain rose high above us only a mile or so
+farther on.
+
+When the night fell the cold was intense, and we huddled about the
+camp-fire for warmth. Around each of the porters' camp-fires the
+humped-up natives crouched and dreamed of the warm valleys far below in
+the darkness. I suppose the cold made them irritable, for just as we
+were preparing to turn in there suddenly came a succession of screams
+from one of the groups--screams of a boy in mortal terror. The sounds
+breaking out so unexpectedly in the silent night were enough to freeze
+the blood in one's veins. I never heard such frantic screams--like those
+that might come from a torture-chamber.
+
+One of the porters had become infuriated by one of the _totos_--small
+boys who go along to help the porters--and had started in to beat him.
+The boy was probably more frightened than hurt, but the matter was one
+demanding instant punitive action. So Abdi immediately inflicted it in a
+most satisfying manner.
+
+Once more the silence of the mountain fell upon the camp, but it was
+hours before the shock to one's senses could be forgotten. I never
+before, nor never again expect to hear screams more harrowing or
+terrifying.
+
+The next day a Martian sitting upon his planet with a powerful glass
+might have seen the amazing sight of three horses, one mule, two
+bullocks, a goat, and a sheep, preceded and followed by over a hundred
+human beings, painfully creep over the rim of the crater and
+breathlessly pause before the great panorama of Africa that lay
+stretched out for hundreds of miles on all sides. It was as though an
+army had ascended Mont Blanc, and thus Hannibal crossing the Alps was
+repeated on a small scale.
+
+Leaving our horses on the rim of the crater, a few of us climbed the
+highest peak, fourteen thousand three hundred and seventy-five feet
+high, as registered by my aneroid barometer, and stood where very few
+had stood before. Even the official height of the mountain, as given on
+the maps, was found to be inaccurate, and illustrated how vaguely the
+geographers knew the mountain.
+
+That night we camped in the crater, twelve thousand feet up, and washed
+in a boiling sulphur spring that sprang from the rocks on the Uganda
+side. Perhaps this was the boiling fountain the superstitious natives
+feared, for it was the only one we saw. And perhaps the great gorge
+through which the river Turkwel, or Suam, flowed on its long journey
+north was the door that Askar had told us about. It was the only door we
+saw, but Askar said the door he meant was away off somewhere else, and
+he was so vague and confused in his bearings that we felt his
+information was unreliable.
+
+The crater of Mount Elgon has long since lost any resemblance to a
+volcanic crater. It is a great valley, or bowl, surrounded by a lofty
+rim that in reality is a considerable chain of mountains. The bowl is
+two or three miles long and as much wide, with tall grass growing on the
+small hills inside and thousands upon thousands of curious cactus-like
+trees. Several mountain streams tumble down from the gorges between the
+peaks and, uniting, flow out of the big gap in one stream, the river
+Turkwel, which separates Uganda from British East Africa.
+
+[Drawing: _In the Crater of Mount Elgon_]
+
+Mount Elgon is not an imposing mountain and on most occasions there is
+no snow on its peaks. Only one time during the several weeks that we
+were in sight of it was its summit capped with snow. A few species of
+small animals live in the crater, but no human beings. At night ice
+formed in the little pools where we camped and a furious wind, biting
+cold, swept down from the peaks and eddied out of the great gap where
+the Turkwel flows.
+
+To all of our _safari_ it was a welcome hour when we struck camp,
+preparatory to leaving the crater for the lower levels. The guides said
+there were only two ways out--one by the Turkwel gorge and the other by
+the route up which we came. The former might lead us far from any
+sources of food supplies, which by that time were becoming imperatively
+necessary, and the latter was undesirable unless as a last resort. After
+some deliberation we resolved to climb over the eastern rim and strike
+for the Nzoia River. No one had ever been known to take this course, but
+we felt that we could cut our way out and make trails sufficient to
+follow.
+
+The guides refused to go, because by doing so they would enter a
+district where they might encounter tribes that were hostile to their
+own. On one side of this mountain there was a bitter tribal war even
+then under way. So we cheerfully said good-by to the Elgonyi guides and
+slowly climbed the rock rim and started for the unknown.
+
+[Photograph: A Deserted Wanderobo Village]
+
+[Photograph: Where We Had Our Thanksgiving Day Lunch]
+
+For two days we climbed downward, sometimes along ancient elephant
+trails and sometimes along the sheep trails made by the flocks of
+mountain tribes. Several times we came upon deserted Wanderobo villages,
+and it was evident the natives who occupied them were abandoning their
+homes in terror before our descending column. Sometimes we groped our
+way through great forests in which there was no trail to follow, and
+sometimes we cut our way through dense jungle thickets like a solid wall
+of vegetation.
+
+[Drawing: _Galloping Lions_]
+
+Upon several occasions we came to impassable places where an abrupt
+cliff would necessitate a tiresome return and a new attempt. Once we
+came to a little clearing in the vast forest where the grass was like a
+lawn and where towering trees rose like the arches of a great cathedral
+a hundred feet above. It was the most beautiful, serene and majestic
+spot I have ever seen. Even the religious grandeur of Nikko's
+cryptomeria aisles was incomparable to this.
+
+One afternoon our column found itself hopelessly lost in a jungle growth
+so dense that one could penetrate it only by cutting a tunnel through,
+and for hours we hacked and hacked and made microscopic progress. At
+last the head of the column came to an abrupt drop of a couple of
+hundred feet which seemed an effectual bar to all further progress. The
+cliff fell off at an angle of sixty degrees, with the slope densely
+matted with heavy scrub and underbrush. It was necessary either to
+retrace our steps through that long and heart-breaking jungle or else
+find a way down the cliff. The water was gone and the horses must be got
+to water before night.
+
+Then, followed the most dramatic episode of our trip. We simply fell
+over the cliff, plunging, caroming, and ricocheting down through the
+masses of vegetation. How the horses got down I shall never know and
+shall always consider as a miracle. And how the burden-bearing porters
+managed to get their loads down is even more of a mystery.
+
+Somewhere down below we heard the cry of a baby!
+
+That meant that there must be human habitation near and, of course, a
+mountain stream, and perhaps guides to lead us out of the mountain
+fastness. A few moments more of falling and sliding and plunging, and
+the advance guard came into a tiny clearing where a fire was burning. A
+rude Wanderobo shack, built around the base of a towering tree from
+which fell great festoons of giant creepers, stood in the center of the
+clearing. Some food, still hot, was found in the vessels in which it had
+been cooking. The people had fled and had been swallowed up in the
+silent depths of the forest.
+
+[Drawing: _Coming Down the Mountain_]
+
+We called and shouted, but no answer came. Some of our porters proceeded
+to rob the shack of its store of wild honey, but were apprehended in
+time and were threatened with violent punishment if it continued. Then
+we prepared to make camp. There was no space for our tents, and trees
+had to be cut down and a little clearing made. Here the tents were
+huddled together, clinging to the sloping mountain side. Darkness fell,
+and then a most wonderful thing happened.
+
+One of the tent boys who was searching for firewood in the darkening
+forest found a little naked baby, barely three months old. It had been
+thrown away as its mother, as she thought, fled for her life. The baby
+was brought into camp, wrapped up, and cared for, and it will never know
+how near it came to being devoured by a leopard or a forest hog. It was
+the crying of this baby that we heard, and we assumed that its mother
+had cast it aside so that its wailing would not betray the hiding-place
+of the remainder of her family. One can only imagine what her terror
+must have been to make this sacrifice in the common interest.
+
+Now, a three-months-old baby is a good deal of a problem for a _safari_
+to handle. In our equipment we had made no provision for the care of
+infants. We could wrap it up and keep it warm, and feed it canned milk,
+but I imagine the proper care of a little babe requires even more than
+that. It was imperative that we find the mother before the baby died.
+
+[Drawing: _A Tent Boy Found It_]
+
+So we first enjoined our mob of porters, who are chronically noisy, to
+be quiet under penalty of a severe _kiboko_ punishment. We then sent out
+Kavirondo, the big, good-natured porter who always acted as our
+interpreter when dealing with the natives of the mountain district. He
+spoke the dialects of the Wanderobo tribes. He was a messenger of peace,
+and he was told to shout out through the forest that we were friendly,
+that we had the baby, and that the mother should come and get it. We
+felt absolutely certain that the sound of his voice would carry to where
+the mother was hidden.
+
+For an hour or more we heard the strong voice of Kavirondo crying out
+his message of peace, and yet no answering cry came from the black
+depths of the forest. It began to look as if we were one little black
+baby ahead. In the meantime the baby was behaving beautifully. It was
+wrapped warmly in a bath towel and seemed to enjoy the attention it was
+receiving. Some one suggested that we leave it in the shack and then all
+retire so that the mother could creep in and recover it. But this had
+one objection--a leopard might creep in first.
+
+We cooked our dinner and away off in the forest came the echoing shouts
+of Kavirondo. The camp settled down to quiet and the camp-fires twinkled
+among the towering trees. Then some one rushed in to say that the father
+and mother had come in.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. "Kavirondo"]
+
+[Photograph: Outlined Against the Sky]
+
+[Photograph: A Reception Committee]
+
+Kavirondo had restored the baby! There was an instant impulse to rush
+down to see the glad reunion, but better counsel prevailed. Such a
+charge, _en masse_, even though friendly, might frighten the natives
+away. So Akeley alone went down and assured the father and mother that
+we were friendly and that nothing would harm them. And when he came back
+it was to report that the parents and the little baby were peacefully
+installed in their forest home again.
+
+[Drawing: _She Threw Her Baby Away_]
+
+Early in the morning we went down to see our strange friends. They had
+greatly increased in number during the night. There were now one man,
+two of his wives, an old woman, and eight children, and the tiny baby.
+All fear had vanished, and they seemed certain that no harm was likely
+to come to them.
+
+The man was a good-looking, strongly built native with fine honest eyes.
+The women were comely and the children positively handsome. I have never
+seen such a healthy, fine-eyed, well-built assortment of childhood,
+ranging all the way from three months up to eight or nine years of age.
+He was the president of the Anti-Race Suicide Club. We gave them all
+presents--beads to the children and brass wire to the women. We also
+made up a little fund of rupees for the baby, although money seemed to
+mean nothing to any of them. They had never seen white men before and
+probably knew nothing of metal money. Beads and brass wire were the only
+currency they knew. We tried to photograph them, but the shades in the
+forest were deep and the light too was bad for successful pictures.
+
+Little by little we got their story.
+
+There was warfare between the forest people and the savage Kara Mojas to
+the north. Neither side could ever tell when a band of the foe would
+swoop down upon them, killing the men, stealing the sheep and seizing
+the women. Only a few months before one of the Kara Mojas had come in
+and stolen some sheep and in return our Wanderobo friend had sallied
+forth, killed the Kara Moja, and captured his wife. It was the latter
+who was now the mother of the little baby, and she seemed quite
+reconciled to the change.
+
+[Drawing: _The Wanderobos' Home_]
+
+When, the night before, the little family around the camp-fire heard the
+crashing of brushes and the hacking of underbrush and the shouts of our
+porters they thought a great force of the Kara Mojas was upon them. So
+they fled in terror. The baby cried, and, fearful that its wails would
+betray their hiding-place, they had cast it away in the bushes. Then
+they had fled into the depths of the forest and, huddled together in
+silent fear, waited in the hope that the Kara Mojas would leave. Finally
+they heard Kavirondo's shouts and then after hours of indecision they
+decided to come in.
+
+That is the end of the story. The Wanderobo, grateful to us, led us by
+secret trails out of the wilderness, or as far as he dared to go. He led
+us to the edge of the enemy's country and then returned to his forest
+home.
+
+In a couple of days of hard marching, one of which was through soaking
+torrents of rain, without food for ten hours, we reached the Nzoia
+River. Our mountain troubles were overs.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+ELECTRIC LIGHTS, MOTOR-CARS AND FIFTEEN VARIETIES OF WILD GAME. CHASING
+LIONS ACROSS COUNTRY IN A CARRIAGE
+
+
+Nairobi is a thriving, bustling city, with motor cars, electric lights,
+clubs, race meets, balls, banquets, and all the frills that constitute
+an up-to-date community. Carriages and dog-carts and motorcycles rush
+about, and lords and princes and earls sit upon the veranda of the
+leading hotel in hunting costumes. Lying out from Nairobi are big
+grazing farms, many of them fenced in with barbed wire; and the peaceful
+rows of telegraph poles make exclamation points of civilization across
+the landscape. It doesn't sound like good hunting in such a district,
+does it? Yet this is what actually happened:
+
+We had discharged our _safari_, packed up our tents, and were just
+ready to start to Mombasa to catch a ship for Bombay. A telegram
+unexpectedly arrived, saying that the boat would not sail until three
+days later, so we decided to put in two or three more mornings of
+shooting out beyond the limits of the city.
+
+We got a carriage, a low-necked vehicle drawn by two little mules. It
+was driven by a young black boy, and we got another boy from the hotel
+to go along for general utility purposes. Into this vehicle we placed
+our guns, and at seven o'clock in the morning drove out of the town. In
+fifteen or twenty minutes we had passed through the streets and had
+reached the pleasant roads of the open plains. Soon we passed the
+race-track and then bowled merrily along between peaceful barbed-wire
+fences. Occasional groups of Kikuyus were tramping along the road,
+bringing in eggs or milk to Nairobi. A farm-house or two lay off to
+either side, and once or twice we passed boys herding little bunches of
+ostriches.
+
+At about a quarter to eight we drove up the tree-lined avenue of a
+farm-house and a pleasant-faced woman responded to our knock. We asked
+for permission to shoot on the farm and were told that we were quite
+welcome to shoot as much as we wished.
+
+Five minutes later, less than an hour's drive from Nairobi, we drove
+past a herd of nearly sixty impalla. They watched us gravely from a
+distance of two hundred yards. At this point we left the well-traveled
+road and drove into the short prairie grass that carpeted, the Athi
+Plains. The carriage bumped pleasantly along, and as we reached a little
+rise a few hundred feet away, the great stretch of the plains lay spread
+out before us.
+
+Mount Kenia, eighty or ninety miles north, was clear and bright with its
+snow-capped peaks sparkling in the early sunlight. Off to its left rose
+the Aberdare Range, with the dominating peak of Kinangop; to its right
+rose the lone bald uplift of Donyo Sabuk, and to the east were the blue
+Lukenia Hills. The house-tops of Nairobi waved miragically in the
+valley, with a low range of blue hills beyond. Across the plains ran the
+row of telegraph poles that marked the course of the railway and a
+traveling column of smoke indicated the busy course of a railway train.
+This was the setting within which lay the broad stretches of the Athi
+Plains, billowing in waves like a grass-covered sea.
+
+[Photograph: A Nest of Ostrich Eggs]
+
+[Photograph: A Herd of Ostriches]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce We Bumped Merrily Along]
+
+As we drove along big herds of zebras paused in their grazing to regard
+the carriage as it merrily bumped across the hills. As long as we
+remained in the vehicle they showed no alarm, for they had seen many
+carriages along the neighboring roads. It was only when the carriage
+stopped that they showed an apprehensive interest. Great numbers of
+Coke's hartebeest watched us with humorous interest. An eland grazed
+peacefully upon a distant hill, and a wart-hog trotted away as we
+approached. Immense numbers of Thompson's gazelle skipped away merrily
+and then turned to regard us with widespread ears and alert eyes. Two
+Grant's gazelles were seen, while far off upon a grassy hillside were
+many wildebeest--the animal that we were seeking. It was impossible to
+get close enough to shoot effectively, and after a time we gave up our
+attempts in that direction.
+
+The wildebeest, although living so near Nairobi, are most wild, and with
+miles of plains stretching out upon all sides it is easy for them to
+keep several hundred yards of space between themselves and danger. We
+spent a couple of hours of fruitless stalking and then were obliged to
+hurry back to town in order to be at the hotel when the tiffin bell
+rang.
+
+I had not yet secured a Thompson's gazelle, so we stopped and each of us
+shot one on our way to the road. Then we returned to town. People along
+the streets regarded us with surprised interest, for there were two
+gazelles hanging out of the carriage and our four rifles gave the
+vehicle an incongruously warlike aspect.
+
+[Drawing: _Shooting Wildebeest (Cross Marks Location of Wildebeest,
+Outward Bound)_]
+
+The next morning at seven o'clock we were again in our carriage. We
+drove out to the same place and at a few minutes after eight we were
+amazed to see a wild dog rise from the grass and look at us. We hastily
+jumped out of the carriage and walked toward him. In a moment a number
+of others rose from the grass, until we saw seventeen of them. This
+animal is seldom seen by sportsmen, and I believe it is considered quite
+rare. In four months only one of our party had previously seen any.
+Sometimes they savagely attack human beings, and when they do their
+attack is fierce and hard to repel. They watched us narrowly as we
+approached them and then moved slowly away. They seemed neither afraid
+nor ferocious.
+
+We each shot and missed. The pack split, and Stephenson followed one
+little bunch while I followed another. My course led me toward a
+shallow, rock-strewn nullah, and once or twice I fired again at the wild
+dogs. But I couldn't hit them. There was nothing remarkable in my
+failure to make a good shot, but Stephenson, who is a celebrated rifle
+shot, seemed to be equally unfortunate in his work. He was some distance
+away and his bullets would not go where he wanted them to go.
+
+Suddenly my attention was riveted upon three forms that walked slowly
+out of the nullah and climbed the slope on the other side, about three
+hundred and fifty yards away. I was transfixed with amazement and could
+hardly believe my eyes.
+
+They were lions!
+
+One was a female and the other two immense males. They were walking
+slowly, and once or twice they stopped to look back at me. Then they
+resumed their stately retreat.
+
+As soon as I recovered from my astonishment I shouted to Stephenson, who
+had been lured far away by the wild dogs.
+
+"_Simba!_" I yelled, pointing to the three lions.
+
+He seemed not to comprehend, and I saw him reluctantly turn from the
+dogs and fix his glasses upon the direction I indicated. In no time he
+was hurrying up to join me, and we hastily formed a plan of campaign.
+The lions had now disappeared over the brow of the hill. I looked at my
+watch and the hour was not yet nine o'clock. We were still in sight of
+the distant house-tops of Nairobi. It seemed unbelievable.
+
+We crossed the nullah and the carriage jolted down and across a few
+minutes later. We took our seats and studied the plains with our
+glasses. The lions were not in sight. Then we studied the herds of game
+and saw that many of them were looking in a certain direction. We drove
+in that direction and whipped up the mules to a lively trot. In a few
+minutes Stephenson picked up the three lions far to the left, where they
+were slowly making their way toward another ravine a mile or so beyond.
+
+Then began one of the strangest lion hunts ever recorded in African
+sporting annals.
+
+You may have read of the practice of "riding" lions. Doctor Rainsford,
+in his splendid book on lion hunting, describes this thrilling sport in
+such vivid words that you shiver as you read them. Mounted men gallop
+after the lion, bring it to bay, and then hold it there until the white
+hunter comes up to a close range and shoots it. In the meantime the
+cornered beast is charging savagely at the horsemen, who trust to the
+speed and quickness of their mounts to elude the angry rushes of the
+infuriated animal. It is a most spectacular method of lion hunting and
+is only eclipsed in danger and daring by the native method of
+surrounding a lion and spearing it to death.
+
+[Photograph: A Kikuyu Woman Uses Her Head]
+
+[Photograph: On the Athi Plains]
+
+[Photograph: It Was a Rakish Craft]
+
+To my knowledge, no one has ever "galloped" a lion in a carriage drawn
+by two mules, and probably few hunters have ever galloped three lions at
+one time under any conditions.
+
+It was a memorable chase. The mules were lashed into a gallop and the
+carriage rocked like a Channel steamer. We were gaining rapidly and the
+distance separating us from the lions was quickly diminishing. It seemed
+as if the three lions were not especially eager to escape, for they
+moved away slowly, as if half-inclined to turn upon us.
+
+[Drawing: _It Rocked Like a Channel Steamer_]
+
+We hoped to overtake them before they reached the ravine or such uneven
+ground as would compel us to abandon the carriage.
+
+Five hundred yards! Then four hundred yards, and soon three hundred
+yards. The mules were doing splendidly, and we knew that we should soon
+be within good shooting distance. At two hundred and fifty yards the
+largest of the two males, a great, black-maned lion, stopped and turned
+toward us. His two companions continued moving away toward the ravine.
+
+Thinking it a good moment to strike, we leaped from the carriage and
+knelt to fire. Stephenson shot at the big black-mane and I at the male
+that was retreating. Both shots missed. The black-mane resumed his
+retreat and we got in a couple more ineffectual shots before the three
+lions disappeared over the brow of the ravine.
+
+[Drawing: _At Two Hundred and Fifty Yards_]
+
+Once more in the carriage and another wild gallop as far as the vehicle
+would go. For a few moments we lost sight of the lions, but presently we
+saw them climbing up the opposite slope, four hundred yards away. It was
+a long distance to shoot, but we hoped to bring them to bay at least by
+wounding them into a fighting mood. The large lion turned and swung
+along the brow of the hill; the others disappeared over the opposite
+side, but they soon reappeared some distance farther to the right.
+
+Little spurts of dirt showed where our bullets were striking. Once I
+kicked up the ground just under him and once a shot from Stephenson
+passed so close to his nose that he ducked his head angrily.
+
+We became frantic with eagerness and continued disappointment. The
+thought of losing the finest lion we had seen on the whole trip was
+maddening, yet it seemed impossible to hit him.
+
+Then he disappeared and probably rejoined his companions in a retreat
+that led down into the ravine where it wound far away from us. There
+were patches of reeds in the ravine and it was there that I thought they
+would hide.
+
+Sending the carriage in a wide detour, we climbed across a spur of the
+ravine and tried to pick up the trail. Once I fell upon the rocks that
+lined the steep sides of the gully and cut my hand so deeply that the
+scar will always remain as a reminder of that eventful day. Stephenson
+kept to the top of the ridge, believing that the lions would continue
+across the ravine; I went into the ravine, thinking they would take
+cover in the reeds and might be scared out with a shot or two.
+
+But nothing could be seen of them, and after half an hour we rejoined on
+the top of the hill, where a wide view of the whole country was
+revealed.
+
+We sat down in despair. The greatest chance of the whole trip was gone.
+
+"That's the last we'll see of them," said I oracularly as I sat upon a
+stone. My hand was covered with blood, but alas! it was mine and not the
+lion's.
+
+The carriage appeared and we held a prolonged consolation meeting.
+Suddenly our general utility boy, Happy Bill, uttered a low cry of
+warning. We turned, and there, in the valley ahead of us, the three
+lions were again seen. They had evidently passed through the reeds
+without stopping and had continued across only a few yards from where we
+were now standing.
+
+Fate seemed determined to give us plenty of chances to get these lions.
+Again we opened fire on them at about four or five hundred yards. My
+big-gun ammunition was gone, so I fired with my .256.
+
+No result! The distance was too great and our bombardment was fruitless.
+The black-maned lion was in a bad humor and repeatedly turned as if
+intent to stop and defend his outraged dignity. In a few moments the
+three lions disappeared in the tall grass that fringed a big reed bed
+many acres in extent.
+
+For an hour we raked the reed bed with shot, hoping to drive them from
+cover. But that was the last we saw of the lions. A little bunch of
+waterbuck does were scared up, but nothing else. The lions were now
+safe, for nothing less than fifty beaters could hope to dislodge them
+from the dense security of the swamp.
+
+[Drawing: _It Would Have Been Historic_]
+
+Talk about dejection! Our ride back to town was as mournful as a ride
+could be. We thought of the glory of driving through the streets of
+Nairobi with a lion or two hanging over the back of the carriage. It
+would have been historic. Citizens would have talked of it for years. It
+would have taken an honored place in the lion-hunting literature of
+Africa, for no lion hunters have ever pursued a band of lions in a
+carriage and brought back a carriage-load of them.
+
+We almost regretted having had the chance that we so heartbreakingly
+lost.
+
+But we told about it when we struck town, and before the day was over it
+was the topic in hotels and clubs throughout the whole town of Nairobi.
+Everybody who had a gun was resolved to go out the next day, and
+interest was at a fever pitch.
+
+We went out again the following morning, shot at wildebeests at all
+known ranges, from two hundred yards up to five hundred yards--but our
+luck was against us. We came back empty-handed, and our chief reward for
+the morning's work was the great privilege of seeing both Mount Kenia,
+ninety miles north, and Kilima-Njaro, nearly two hundred miles
+southeast, as clear as a cameo against the lovely African sky.
+
+The lesson of this story is not so much a review of bad shooting or of
+bad luck. The thing that seems most noteworthy is that within six or
+seven miles from Nairobi, nearly all the time within sight of the
+house-tops of that town, we had seen fifteen varieties of wild game,
+some of which were present in great numbers.
+
+  Wildebeest
+  Hartebeest
+  Hyena
+  Jackal
+  Thompson's Gazelle
+  Lion
+  Rabbit
+  Waterbuck
+  Impalla
+  Giant Bustard
+  Ostrich
+  Wart-hog
+  Wild Dog
+  Steinbuck
+  Grant's Gazelle
+
+Surely there is still some game left in Africa.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+THE LAST WORD IN LION HUNTING. METHODS OF TRAILING, ENSNARING AND
+OTHERWISE OUTWITTING THE KING OF BEASTS. A CHAPTER OF ADVENTURES
+
+
+If some one were to start a correspondence course in lion hunting he
+would give diagrams and instructions showing how to kill a lion in about
+six different styles--namely:
+
+  The boma method.
+  The tall grass method.
+  The riding method.
+  The tree method.
+  The lariat method.
+  The spear method.
+
+This list does not include the Ananias method, formerly popular.
+
+The tree and boma methods are much esteemed by those sportsmen who wish
+to reduce personal danger to the least common denominator--the sportsmen
+who think discretion is the better part of valor and a hunter in a tree
+is worth two in the bush. The sportsman who confines himself to the tree
+method is entitled to receive a medal "for conspicuous caution in times
+of danger," and the loved ones at home need never worry about his safe
+return. For safe lion hunting the "tree" method would get "first prize,"
+while the "boma" method would receive honorable mention.
+
+The "tall grass" method is less popular in that the lion has some show
+and often succeeds in getting away to tell about it. It involves danger
+to all concerned.
+
+[Drawing: _Spearing Lions_]
+
+The "riding" method is also dangerous, for in it the hunter endeavors to
+"round up" or "herd" a lion by riding him to a standstill. When the lion
+is fighting mad he stops and turns upon his persecutors. This is when
+the obituary columns thrive.
+
+The "lariat" method is not as yet in general vogue, but I understand
+that "Buffalo" Jones, an American, succeeded in roping a lion as they
+rope cattle out west. It sounds diverting.
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. A Dead Lion Is a Sign for
+Jubilation]
+
+[Photograph: A Dethroned King of Beasts]
+
+The "spear" method is that employed by natives, who, armed with spear
+and shield, surround a lion and then kill it with their spears. They
+invariably succeed, but not until a few of the spear-bearers are more or
+less Fletcherized by the lion. This method does not appeal to those who
+wish to get home to tell about it, and need not be considered at length
+in any correspondence course.
+
+[Drawing: _The Tree Method_]
+
+The tree method is comparatively simple. You build a platform in a tree
+and place a bait near it. Then you wait through the long, silent watches
+of the night for Felis Leo to appear. The method has few dangers. The
+chief one lies in falling asleep and tumbling out of the tree, but this
+is easily obviated by making the platform large enough for two or three
+men, two of whom may stretch out and sleep while the other one remains
+awake and keeps guard.
+
+When I went to Africa I resolved never to climb a tree. Later I resolved
+to try the tree method in order to get experience in a form of lion
+hunting that has many advocates among the valiant hunters who want lion
+skins at no expense to their own.
+
+Of course, there are some perils connected with this method of lion
+slaying. Mosquitoes may bite you, causing a dreadful fever that may
+later result in death in some lingering and costly form. Also the biting
+ants may pursue you up to your aery perch and take small but effective
+bites in many itchable but unscratchable points. These elements of
+danger are about the only ones encountered in the tree method of lion
+hunting, but then who could expect to kill lions without some degree of
+personal discomfort?
+
+My one and only tree experience was not particularly eventful. A large
+and commodious platform was built in the forks of a great tree in a
+district where the questing grunt of lions could be heard each night.
+The platform was comfortable; it only needed hot and cold running water
+to be a delightful place to spend a tropic night.
+
+I shot a hartebeest and had it dragged beneath the tree. Then my two
+native gunbearers and I made a satisfactory ascent to the platform. We
+had a thermos bottle filled with hot tea, and some odds and ends in the
+way of solid refreshments. We then stretched out in positions that
+commanded a view of the hartebeest and waited patiently for an obliging
+lion to come and be shot.
+
+Night came on and soon the landscape became shadowy and indistinct.
+Trees and bushes fused into vague black masses and the carcass of the
+bait could be located only because it seemed a shade more opaque than
+the opaque gloom around it. The more you looked at it the more elusive
+and shifting it seemed. The sights of the rifle were invisible, and the
+only way one could find the sight was by aiming at a star and then
+carefully lowering the direction of the weapon until it approximately
+pointed at the carcass.
+
+Of course, we were very still; even the stars were not more silent than
+we. And little by little the noises of an African night were heard,
+growing in volume until from all sides came the cries of night birds and
+the songs of insects and tree-toads. It was the apotheosis of
+loneliness. And thus we sat, with eyes straining to pierce the gloom
+that hedged us in. We could see no sign of life, yet all about us in
+those dark shadows there were thousands of creatures moving about on
+their nightly hunt.
+
+Suddenly there came the soft crescendo of a hyena's howl some place off
+in the night. It was answered by another, miles away; then another, far
+off in a still different direction. The scent of the bait was spreading
+to the far horizon and the keen-scented carrion-eaters had caught it and
+were hurrying to the feast.
+
+Then, after moments of waiting, the howls came from so near that they
+startled us. There seemed to be dozens of hyenas--a regular class
+reunion of them--yet not one could be seen in the "murky gloom." And
+then, a moment later, we heard the crunching of teeth and the slither of
+rending flesh, and we knew that a supper party of hyenas was gathered
+about the festal board below us. I was afraid that they would eat up the
+carcass and thus keep away the lions, so I fired a shot to scare them
+away. There was a quick rush of feet--then that dense, expectant silence
+once more. Soon some little jackals came and were shooed away. Then more
+hyenas came, were given their conge, and hurried off to the tall grass.
+And yet no lion. It was quite disappointing.
+
+At midnight, far off to the north, came the grunting voice of a lion. I
+waited eagerly for the next sound which would indicate whether the lure
+of the bait was beckoning him on. And soon the sound came, this time
+much nearer, and after a long silence there was a sharp, snarling grunt
+of a lion, followed by the panic-stricken rush of a hundred heavy hoofs.
+The conjunction of sounds told the story as definitely as if the whole
+scene lay bared to view. The lion had leaped upon a hartebeest,
+probably instantly breaking its neck, while the rest of the herd had
+galloped away in terror. And it had all happened within two or three
+hundred yards of the tree--yet nothing could be seen.
+
+At two o'clock the grunt of a lion was again heard far off to the south.
+It came steadily toward us, and at last there was no doubt about its
+destination. It was coming to the bait. How my eyes strained to pierce
+the darkness and how breathlessly I waited with rifle in readiness! But
+the lion only paused at the bait, and as I waited for it to settle down
+to its feast it went grunting away and the chance was gone. Perhaps it
+had already fed, or perhaps it was an unusually fastidious lion which
+desired to do its own killing.
+
+An hour or two later, both gunbearers asleep and one snoring peacefully,
+I became aware of a large animal feeding at the bait. Although no sound
+had preceded its coming, I thought it might be a lion, but feared that
+it was a hyena. I fired at the dark, shifting, black shadow and the roar
+of the big rifle shattered the silence like a clap of unexpected
+thunder. Then there was such a dense silence that it seemed to ring in
+one's ears.
+
+Had I hit or missed? That could not be decided until daybreak, for it is
+the height of folly to climb down from a tree to feel the pulse of a
+wounded lion.
+
+When daybreak came we made an investigation. Only the mangled remains of
+the carcass lay below. Later in the day some members of our party came
+across the dead body of a hyena lying about a hundred yards from the
+tree, partly hidden by a little clump of bushes. Its backbone was
+shattered by a .475 bullet.
+
+Thus ended my first and only adventure in the "tree method."
+
+The boma method is slightly more dangerous and much more exciting. A lot
+of thorn branches are twisted together in a little circle, within which
+the hunter sits and waits for his lion. As in the tree method, a bait is
+placed near the boma, twelve or fifteen yards away, and a little
+loophole is arranged in the tangle of thorn branches through which the
+rifle may be trained upon the bait.
+
+[Drawing: _The Boma Method_]
+
+The lion can not get into the boma unless he jumps up and comes in from
+the top. It is the function of the hunter to prevent this strategic
+manoeuver by killing the lion before he gets in. If he does not, he is
+likely to find himself engaged in a spirited hand-to-hand fight with an
+unfriendly lion in a space about as big as the upper berth of a
+sleeping-car.
+
+My first boma was a meshwork of thorns piled and interwoven together
+with the architectural simplicity of an Eskimo igloo. When it was
+finished there didn't seem to be the ghost of a chance of a lion getting
+in; but at night, as I looked out, it seemed frail indeed. Some dry
+grass was piled inside, with blankets spread over it to prevent
+rustling; and when night came we three, myself and two gunbearers,
+wormed our way in and then pulled some pieces of brush into the opening
+after us. The rifles were sighted on the bait while it was still
+daylight and at a spot where the expected lion might appear. Then we
+waited.
+
+The customary nocturne by birds, beasts and insects began before long,
+and several times hyenas and jackals came to the bait, but no lions. The
+boma was on the edge of a great swamp, miles in extent and a great
+rendezvous for game of many kinds. Theoretically, there couldn't be a
+better place to expect lions, but nary a lion appeared that night.
+
+Upon a later occasion--Christmas night, it was--I watched from a boma
+near an elephant we had killed, but except for the distant grunting of
+lions, there was nothing important to chronicle.
+
+Lion hunting goes by luck. One man may sit in a boma night after night
+without getting a shot, while another may go out once and bring back a
+black-mane. I spent two nights in a boma without seeing a lion;
+Stephenson spent seven nights and saw only a lioness. He held his fire
+in the expectation that the male was with her and would soon appear.
+Presently a huge beast appeared, vague in the dark shadows; he thought
+it was the male lion, shot, and the next morning found a large dead
+hyena.
+
+Mrs. Akeley went out only once, had a night of thrilling experiences,
+and killed a large male lion. The lion appeared early in the evening and
+her first shot just grazed the backbone. An inch higher and it would
+have missed, but as it was, the mere grazing of the backbone paralyzed
+the animal, preventing its escape. All night long it crouched helplessly
+before them, twelve yards away, insane with rage and fury. Its roars
+were terrifying. A number of times she shot, but in the darkness none of
+the many hits reached a vital spot. Once in the night two other lions
+came, but escaped after being fired at.
+
+As soon as daylight appeared and she could see the sights of her rifle
+she easily killed the lion. It was the largest one of the eleven killed
+in our hunting trip, and was killed with a little .256 Mannlicher, the
+same weapon with which she shot her record elephant on Mount Kenia.
+
+In the tall-grass method, native beaters are sent in long skirmish line
+through swamps and such places as lions like to lay up in during the
+hours of daylight. The beaters chant a weird and rather musical refrain
+as they advance and thrash the high reeds with their sticks. Reedbuck,
+sometimes a bushbuck, frequently hyenas, and many large owls are driven
+out of nearly every good-sized swamp. The hunters divide, one or more on
+each side of the swamp and slightly ahead of the line of beaters. As the
+lion springs out it is up to the hunter nearest to it to meet it with
+the traditional unerring shot.
+
+[Photograph: The Tree Method of Lion Shooting]
+
+[Photograph: Dragged a Zebra to the Boma]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. The Rifle Was Sighted on the
+Bait]
+
+In our experience we beat dozens of swamps and reed beds. Stephenson
+would take one side of the swamp, I the other, while Akeley with his
+moving-picture machine, would take the side best suited to photographic
+purposes. He got some wonderful results, two of which were records of
+the death of two lionesses.
+
+Upon the first of these occasions the beaters had worked down a long
+stretch of swamp and had almost reached the end. Suddenly they showed an
+agitated interest in something in front of them. They thought it was a
+lion until an innocent by-stander made an unauthorized guess that it was
+a hyena. This reassured the beaters and they advanced boldly in the
+belief that it was a harmless hyena. My valor rose in proportion and for
+the same reason, and I strolled bravely over to the edge of the reeds
+where a little opening appeared. It was something of a shock to see two
+lions stroll suddenly into view. I fired, hitting the last one. Then
+they both disappeared in the reeds ahead.
+
+It was amazing to note the sudden epidemic of caution upon the part of
+all concerned. The beaters refused to advance until Stephenson joined
+them with his big rifle. I moved forward on the side lines and the
+moving-picture machine reeled off yards of film.
+
+A man has to appear brave when a camera is turned on him, but with two
+lions a few feet away there was not a tendency to advance with that
+impetuous dash that one would like to see in a moving picture of
+oneself. Anyway, I tried to keep up an appearance of advancing without
+actually covering much territory.
+
+One of my gunbearers suddenly clutched my arm and pointed into the
+reeds. There, only a few feet away, was the tawny figure of a lion,
+either lying down or crouching. I fired and nearly blew its head off. It
+was the one I had wounded a few minutes before.
+
+[Drawing: _Photographed in Times of Danger_]
+
+There was still the other lion in the reeds. So I joined the beaters
+while Stephenson came out and took a commanding position at the side of
+the reeds. In a moment or two there was a tawny flash and the lion was
+seen as it broke from the reeds and sprang away up the hill. It was on
+the opposite side of the reeds from Stephenson, but his first shot hit
+it and it stopped and turned angrily. In another instant it would have
+charged, but a second shot from his rifle killed it instantly. Both of
+the animals were young lionesses of the same age and nearly full grown.
+
+Sometimes, when a lion is driven to bay in the tall grass at the end of
+a swamp, the beaters refuse to advance, and it then becomes necessary
+for the hunter to go in and take the lead. An occasion of this sort was
+among the most thrilling of my African experiences.
+
+An immense swamp had been beaten out and nothing had developed until the
+beaters were almost at the end of the swamp. Extending from the end and
+joining it was a patch of wire-like reeds, eight or ten feet high and
+covering two or three acres. This high grass was almost impenetrable by
+a man, and it was only possible to go through it by throwing one's
+weight forward and crushing down the dense growth. The grass grew from
+hummocks, between which were deep water channels. An animal could glide
+through these channels, but a man must batter his way through the
+stockade of dense grass that spread out above.
+
+It was in this place that the lion was first heard and the beaters
+refused to follow it in. Guttural grunts and snarls came from that
+uninviting jungle, and we knew that the only way to force the lion out
+was to go in and drive it out.
+
+At about this time another lion came out of the swamp behind and loped
+up the hill. The saises were sent galloping after it to round it up, but
+they reappeared after a few moments and reported that it had got away in
+the direction of a huge swamp a mile or so beyond. We began to think we
+had struck a nest of lions.
+
+Then we went in to drive out that lion in the deep grass. The native
+beaters, encouraged by seeing armed white men leading the way, came
+along with renewed enthusiasm. That grass was something terrible. One
+would hardly care to go through it if he knew that a bag of gold or a
+fairy princess awaited him beyond; with a lion there, the delight of the
+job became immeasurably less. We could not see three feet ahead. From
+time to time we were floundering down into channels of water hidden by
+the density of the grass. Some of these channels were two feet deep. And
+with each yard of advance came the realization that we were coming to an
+inevitable show-down with that lion. Akeley and I were in with the
+beaters, Stephenson was beyond the patch of grass to intercept the lion
+should it break forth, from cover.
+
+It was not until we had nearly traversed the entire patch of reeds that
+the lion was found. It evidently lay silently ahead of us until we were
+almost upon it. Then, almost beneath my feet, came the angry and ominous
+growl, and my Somali gunbearer leaped in terror, falling as he did so. I
+expected to see a long, lean flash of yellow body and to experience the
+sensation of being mauled by a lion. All was breathlessly silent for a
+moment. Then a shot from Stephenson's rifle said that the lion had burst
+from the reeds and into view.
+
+We pushed our way out to see what had happened.
+
+The lion had come out, then turned suddenly back into the cover of
+reeds, working its way along the front of the beaters. For an instant
+Stephenson saw it and fired into the grass ahead of it without result.
+
+The track of the lion was followed, but the animal had succeeded in
+getting around the beaters and back into the swamp. Fires were lighted,
+but the reeds were too green to burn except in occasional spots.
+
+A few minutes later the saises, posted like sentinels high on the hills
+that flanked the swamp, saw the lion again and galloped down to head it
+off. It left the swamp and continued on down the rush-lined banks of a
+stream, zigzagging its way back and forth. After a pursuit of a couple
+of miles it was cornered in a small patch of reeds. Further retreat was
+impossible and it knew that it had to fight.
+
+The moving-picture machine was set up on one side and I was detailed to
+guard that side. If the lion came out it was to be allowed to charge a
+certain distance, within forty feet, before I was to fire. If it didn't
+charge at us, but attempted to escape, it was to be allowed to run
+across the strip of open ground in front of the camera before I was to
+shoot.
+
+Stephenson took his place on the other bank, twenty-five or thirty yards
+from the edge of the reeds. Then the beaters were told to advance, and
+they moved forward, throwing rocks and sticks into the reeds ahead of
+them. The lion appeared on Stephenson's side. Like a flash it sprang
+out. He fired and the lion stopped momentarily under the impact of a
+heavy ball. Then it sprang a few yards onward, when a second shot laid
+it out. The last shot was fired at less than twenty yards.
+
+The moving-picture machine recorded the thrilling scene and there was an
+hour of great rejoicing and jubilation. The animal was an old lioness
+and the first shot had torn her lower jaw away and had gone into the
+shoulder. It is amazing that she was not instantly killed--but that's a
+way lions have. They never know when to quit.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+ABDULLAH THE COOK AND SOME INTERESTING GASTRONOMICAL EXPERIENCES.
+THIRTEEN TRIBES REPRESENTED IN THE SAFARI. ABDI'S STORY OF HIS UNCLE AND
+THE LIONS
+
+
+Our cook was a dark-complexioned man between whom and the ace of spades
+there was considerable rivalry. He was of that deadly night shade. He
+was the darkest spot on the Dark Continent. After dark he blended in
+with the night so that you couldn't tell which was cook and which was
+night.
+
+His name was Abdullah, his nature was mild and gentle, and his skill in
+his own particular sphere of action was worthy of honorable mention by
+all refined eaters. He was about fifty or sixty years of age, five feet
+tall, with a smile varying from four to six inches from tip to tip. It
+was a smile that came often, and when really unfurled to its greatest
+width it gave the pleasing effect of a dark face ambushed behind a row
+of white tombstones.
+
+When Abdullah joined our _safari_ it was freely predicted that he would
+do well for the first month or so, after which he would fade away to
+rank mediocrity; but, strangely enough, he became better and better as
+time went on, and during our last two weeks was springing culinary coups
+that excited intense interest on our part. He had a way of assembling a
+few odds and ends together that finally merged into a rice pudding par
+excellence, while his hot cakes were so good that we spoke of them in
+rapt, reverential whispers. There wasn't a twinge of indigestion in a
+"three by six" stack of them, and when flooded with a crown of liquid
+honey they made one think of paradise and angels' choruses.
+
+Quite naturally, in my wanderings of nine months there were moments when
+my thoughts dwelt upon such material things as "vittles," and it was
+instructive to compare the various kinds of food served on a dozen
+ships, a score of hotels, and a hundred camps. Some were good and some
+were bad, but as viewed in calm retrospect I think that Abdullah
+excelled all other chefs, taking him day in and day out.
+
+Upon only three occasions was he vanquished, but these were memorable
+ones. As food is a pleasant topic, perhaps I may be pardoned if I dwell
+fondly upon these three red-letter days in my memory.
+
+One was in Paris. The night that we started for Africa a merry little
+company dined at Henry's. That distinguished master was given _carte
+blanche_ to get up the best dinner known to culinary science, and he had
+a day's start. Everything was delicious. The dinner was a symphony,
+starting in a low key and gradually working up in a stirring crescendo
+until the third course, where it reached supreme heights in climacteric
+effect. That third course, if done in music, would have sent men
+cheering to the cannon's mouth or galloping joyously in a desperate
+cavalry charge.
+
+[Photograph: One of Our Askaris]
+
+[Photograph: By courtesy of W.D. Boyce. Hassan Mohammed]
+
+The dish was called "poulet archduc," although I should have called it
+at least poulet archangel. In this divine creation Henry reached the
+Nirvana of good things to eat. I beseeched him for the recipe, which he
+cheerfully wrote out, so now I am happy to pass it along that all may
+try it. It really ought to be dramatized.
+
+I transcribe it in M. Henry's own verbiage:
+
+  The chicken must be well cleaned inside. Next put in it some butter,
+  salt and pepper, a little paprika, and into full of sweet corn, then
+  close the chicken. Next put it in a saucepan with other more sweet
+  corn, against butter, salt, pepper, a little whisky; cook about half
+  of one hour.
+
+  The best sweet corn is the California sweet corn in can.
+
+  The sauce is done with white of chicken. Squeeze two yolks of eggs and
+  butter like for a sauce mousseline and finish it with a little whisky.
+
+And there you are.
+
+The second occasion came some months later. We had been on _safari_ for
+several weeks and had returned to Nairobi for two or three days. It was
+the "psychological moment" for something new in the way of food. The
+stage was all set for it, and it came in the form of a pudding that
+would have delighted all the gastronomes and epicures of history. We
+called it the Newland-Tarlton pudding, because it was the joint creation
+of Mrs. Newland and Mrs. Tarlton. One wrote the poetry in it and the
+other set it to music. We ate it so thoroughly that the plates looked as
+clean as new. Cuninghame was there, dressed up for the first time in
+months, and the way that pudding disappeared behind his burly beard was
+suggestive of the magic of Kellar or Herrmann.
+
+The recipe of this pudding is worthy of export to the United States, so
+here it is. It really is a combination of two puddings, served together
+and eaten at the same time.
+
+  THE NEWLAND BANANA CUSTARD
+
+  Boil three large cupfuls of milk. Mix a tablespoonful of corn flour
+  with a little cold milk just to make it into a paste. Add four eggs
+  well beaten and mix together with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Put
+  into the boiled milk and stir until it thickens, but don't let it
+  boil. When taken off add one teaspoonful of vanilla essence. Cut up
+  ten bananas and put in a dish. Pour custard on when cool.
+
+  PRUNE SHAPE (A LA TARLTON)
+
+  Stew one-half pound prunes until quite soft. Remove stones and cut
+  prunes small. Dissolve one-half ounce gelatin and add to one-quarter
+  pound sugar, prunes, and kernels. Pour into wetted mold to cool, first
+  adding one-half glass of sherry. Must be served with banana cream (the
+  Newland).
+
+The third occasion made memorable by a delicious epoch-making dish I
+shall not specify, as we have dined with many friends during the last
+nine months. Let it be sufficient if I say that it was at one of these
+dinners or luncheons.
+
+In our varied gastronomical experiences we found that the cooking on the
+English ships was usually bad, while that on the German ships was good,
+excepting the ship that took us from Naples to Mombasa. The Dutch ships
+were the best of all and the Dutch hotels in Java were the best we
+struck outside of Paris and London. In comparison with the Hotel des
+Indes, in Batavia, all the rest of the hotels of the Orient can be
+mentioned only in a furtive way. It was a revelation of excellence, in
+perfect keeping with the charm and beauty of Java as a whole.
+
+But we were speaking of things to eat.
+
+At the Hotel des Indes they served us a modest little dish called rice
+tafel, or "rijs-tafel." You have to go to luncheon early in order to eat
+it before dinner time. It was served by twenty-four waiters, marching in
+single file, the line extending from the kitchen to the table and then
+returning by a different line of march to the kitchen. It was fifteen
+minutes passing a given point. Each waiter carried a dish containing one
+of the fifty-seven ingredients of the grand total of the rice tafel. You
+helped yourself with one arm until that got tired, then used the other.
+When you were all ready to begin your plate looked like a rice-covered
+bunker on a golf course.
+
+[Drawing: _The Rice Tafel in Java_]
+
+Rice tafel is a famous dish in Java. It is served at tiffin, and after
+you have eaten it you waddle to your room in a congested state and sleep
+it off. After my first rice tafel I dreamed I was a log jam and that
+lumber jacks with cant hooks were trying to pry me apart.
+
+As the recipe for rice tafel is not to be found in any cook book on
+account of its length, we give it here even if you won't believe it. To
+a large heap of rice add the following:
+
+MEAT AND FISH
+
+  Spiced beef, deviled soup meat, both fried with cocoanut shreds.
+
+  Minced pork, baked.
+
+  Fried fish, soused fish, and baked fish.
+
+  Fried oysters and whitebait.
+
+
+SPICES
+
+  Red fish.
+
+  Deviled shrimps, chutney.
+
+  Deviled pistachio nuts.
+
+  Deviled onions sliced with pimentos.
+
+  Deviled chicken giblets.
+
+  Deviled banana tuft.
+
+  Pickled cucumbers.
+
+  Cucumber plain (to cool the palate after hot ingredients).
+
+
+FOWL, FRUIT, ETC.
+
+  Roast chicken, plain.
+
+  Steamed chicken with chilis.
+
+  Monkey nuts fried in paste.
+
+  Flour chips with fish lime (called grapak and kripak).
+
+  Fried brinjals without the seeds.
+
+  Fried bananas.
+
+
+JUICES
+
+  Yellow--(One) of curry powder with chicken giblets and bouillon.
+
+  Brown--(Two) of celery, haricot beans, leeks and young cabbage.
+
+
+  One quart of American pale ale to drink during the "rice tafel."
+
+Our cook Abdullah was not the only interesting type in our _safari_.
+Among our dusky colleagues there were thirteen different tribes
+represented. It was a congress of nations and a babel of tongues. Some
+of the porters became conspicuous figures early in the march, while some
+were so lacking in individuality that they seemed like new-comers even
+after four months out.
+
+[Drawing: _The "Chantecler" of Our Safari_]
+
+Of this latter class Hassan Mohammed was not one.
+
+Hassan was my chief gunbearer, and for pious devotion to the Mohammedan
+faith he was second to none. He was the "Chantecler" of our outfit.
+Every morning at four o'clock, regardless of the weather, he would crawl
+out of his tent, drape himself in a white sheet, and cry out his prayers
+to Mecca. It was his voice that woke the camp, and the immediate answer
+to his prayers was sometimes quite irreverent, especially from the
+Wakamba porters, who were accustomed to sit up nearly all night
+gambling.
+
+Hassan was a Somali, strictly honest and faithful. He had the Somali's
+love of a rupee, and there was no danger or hardship that he would not
+undergo in the hope of backsheesh. It is the African custom to
+backsheesh everybody when a lion is killed, so consequently the Somalis
+were always looking for lions. Perhaps he also prayed for them each
+morning.
+
+When we started we had four Somali gunbearers, each of whom rose at dawn
+to pray. As we got up in the high altitudes, where the mornings were
+bitter cold, the number of suppliants dwindled down to one, and Hassan
+was the sole survivor. No cold or rain or early rising could cool the
+fierce religious ardor that burned within him.
+
+Long before daybreak we would hear his voice raised in a singsong prayer
+full of strange runs and weird minors. The lions that roared and grunted
+near the camp would pause in wonder and then steal away as the sound of
+Hassan's devotions rang out through the chilly, dew-laden dawn. And as
+if fifteen minutes of morning prayer was not enough to keep him even
+with his religious obligations, he went through two more long recitals
+in the afternoon and at night.
+
+I sometimes thought that behind his fervent ardor there was a
+considerable pride in his voice, for he introduced many interesting
+by-products of harmony that sounded more or less extraneous to both
+music and prayer. Nevertheless, Hassan was consistent. He never lied, he
+never stole, and it was part of his personal creed of honor to stand by
+his master in case of danger. Somali gunbearers are a good deal of a
+nuisance about a camp, partly because they are the aristocrats of Africa
+and demand large salaries, but chiefly because they require certain
+kinds of food that their religion requires them to eat. This is often
+difficult to secure when far from sources of supplies, and in
+consequence the equilibrium of camp harmony is sorely disturbed.
+
+They are avaricious and money loving to a deplorable degree, but there
+is one thing that can be said for the Somali. He will never desert in
+time of danger and will cheerfully sacrifice himself for his master. He
+has the stamina of a higher type of civilization, and in comparison to
+him the lately reclaimed savage is not nearly so dependable in a crisis.
+
+I sometimes suspected that Hassan was not really a gunbearer, but was
+merely a "camel man" who was tempted from his flocks by the high pay
+that African gunbearers receive. Notwithstanding this, he was
+courageous, faithful, willing, honest, good at skinning, and personally
+an agreeable companion during the months that we were together. I got to
+like him and often during our rests after long hours afield we would
+talk of our travels and adventures.
+
+[Photograph: Jumma, the Tent Boy]
+
+[Photograph: Abdullah, the Cook]
+
+One day we stopped at the edge of the Molo River. A little bridge
+crossed the stream and I remembered that the equator is supposed to pass
+directly across the middle of this bridge. It struck me as being quite
+noteworthy, so I tried to tell Hassan all about it. I was hampered
+somewhat because he didn't know that the world was round, but after some
+time I got him to agree to that fact. Then by many illustrations I
+endeavored to describe the equator and told him it crossed the bridge.
+He got up and looked, but seemed unconvinced as well as unimpressed.
+Then I told him that it was an imaginary line that ran around the world
+right where it was fullest--half way between the north pole and the
+south pole. He brightened up at this and hastened to tell me that he had
+heard of the north pole from a man on a French ship. As I persevered in
+my geographical lecture he gradually became detached from my point of
+view, and when we finished I was talking equator and he was talking
+about a friend of his who had once been to Rotterdam.
+
+The lecture was a "draw." But I noticed with satisfaction that when we
+walked across the bridge he looked furtively between each crack as if
+expecting to see something.
+
+It was rather a curious thing, speaking of Hassan, to observe the
+respect with which the other natives treated his daily religious
+devotions. He was the only one in camp who prayed--at least openly--and
+as he knelt and bowed and went through the customary form of a
+Mohammedan prayer there was never the slightest disposition to make fun
+of him. In a camp of one hundred white men I feel sure that one of them
+who prayed aloud three times a day would hardly have escaped a good deal
+of irreverent ridicule from those about him. The natives in our camp
+never dreamed of questioning Hassan's right to worship in any way he
+pleased and the life and activities of the camp flowed along smoothly as
+if unconscious of the white-robed figure whose voice sang out his
+praises of Allah. The whole camp seemed to have a deep respect for
+Hassan.
+
+Abdi, our head-man, was also a Somali, but of a different tribe. He was
+from Jubaland and had lived many years with white men. In all save color
+he was more white than black. He was handsome, good-tempered, efficient,
+and so kind to his men that sometimes the discipline of the camp
+suffered because of it. It was Abdi's duty to direct the porters in
+their work of moving camp, distributing loads, pitching camp, getting
+wood for the big camp-fires, punishing delinquents and, in fact, to see
+that the work of the _safari_ was done.
+
+One night after we had been most successful in a big lion hunt during
+the day Abdi came to the mess tent, where we were lingering over a
+particularly good dinner. Abdi asked for his orders for the following
+day and then, seeing that we were in a talkative mood, he stopped a
+while to join in the stories of lion hunting.
+
+After a time he told two of his own that he had brought from his boyhood
+home in Jubaland. They were so remarkable that you don't have to believe
+them unless you want to.
+
+[Drawing: _Abdi's Uncle and the Man-Eaters_]
+
+
+ABDI'S STORY ABOUT HIS UNCLE AND THE LIONS
+
+  "Once upon a time my uncle, who was a great runner, encountered six
+  man-eating lions sitting in the road. He took his spear and tried to
+  kill them, but they divided, three on each side of the road. So he
+  took to his heels. To the next town it was twelve hours' march, but he
+  ran it in ten hours, the lions in hot pursuit every minute of the
+  time. When he reached the town he jumped over the thorn bush zareba,
+  and the lions, close behind him, jumped over after him and were killed
+  by his spear, one after the other."
+
+
+ABDI'S STORY ABOUT THE WILY SOMALI AND THE LION
+
+  "Once upon a time there was a Somali who was warned not to go down a
+  certain road on account of the man-eating lions. But he started out,
+  armed with knife and spear. For a week he marched, sleeping in the
+  trees at night and marching during the day. One day he suddenly came
+  upon a big lion sitting in the road. He stopped, sharpening a little
+  stick which he held in his left hand. Then he wrapped his 'tobe' or
+  blanket around his left hand and arm. He then advanced to the lion and
+  when it opened its mouth to bite him he thrust the sharp stick inside,
+  up and down, thus gagging the lion. Then with his two hands he held
+  the lion by its ears for three days. He couldn't let go because the
+  lion would maul him with its heavy paws. He was thus in quite a fix.
+
+[Drawing: _He Hastily Cut a Stick_]
+
+  "Finally another Somali came along and he asked the new-comer to hold
+  the lion while he killed it with his spear. The other Somali consented
+  and seized the lion by the ears. Then the first Somali laughed long
+  and loud and said, 'I've held him three days, now you hold him three
+  days.' Then he strolled down the road and disappeared. For seven days
+  the second Somali held the lion and then by the same subterfuge turned
+  it over to a third Somali. By this time the lion was pretty tired, so
+  after one day the Somali shook the lion hard and then took out his
+  knife and stabbed it to death."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Sulimani was my second gunbearer. His name wasn't Sulimani, but some one
+gave him that name because his own Kikuyu name was too hard to pronounce
+and impossible to remember. Sulimani was quite a study. He had the
+savage's love of snuff, and when not eating or sleeping he was taking
+pinches of that narcotic from an old kodak tin. In consequence he had
+the chronic appearance of being full of dope. He walked along as though
+in a trance. He never seemed to be looking anywhere except at the
+stretch of trail directly in front of him. His thoughts were far away,
+or else there were no thoughts at all. I often watched him and wondered
+what he was thinking about.
+
+Sulimani was really one of the best natural hunters in the whole
+_safari_. He had a native instinct for tracking that was wonderful; he
+had courage that was fatalistic, and he seemed to know what an animal
+would do and where it would go under certain conditions. Beneath that
+dopy somnolence of manner his senses were alert and his eyes were
+usually the first to see distant game.
+
+He had originally been a porter when we started out, but I gave him a
+new suit of khaki and promoted him to the position of second gunbearer.
+As long as we were in touch with civilization he kept that khaki suit in
+a condition of spotlessness, but when we got out in the wilds, away from
+the girls, it soon became stiff with blood-stains and dirt. The natural
+savage instinct became predominant; he reverted to type.
+
+His jaunty red fez was replaced by a headgear made of the beautiful skin
+of a Uganda cob. Ostrich and maribou feathers stuck out from the top,
+while upon his feet were sandals made from the thick skin of a
+waterbuck. A zebra tail was fashioned into a sheath for his
+skinning-knife, so that, little by little, he resolved himself back into
+a condition of savage splendor. He usually did most of my skinning, and
+that being dirty work, I was disposed to be tolerant with the
+disgraceful condition of his khaki suit.
+
+Finally we approached civilization once more, and I told Sulimani that
+he'd have to clean up, otherwise the girls wouldn't like him. I gave him
+half a day off to wash his clothes, and he dutifully disappeared from
+society for that period. When he once more turned up he was resplendent
+in his clean clothes. As we marched along toward Nairobi he broke his
+long silence by bursting into song. For a day or two it was the wonder
+of the camp, but he was quite unconscious of it. Music was in his soul
+and the germ of love was churning it up. And so he sang as he marched
+along, and his thoughts were racing ahead of him to the "sing sing"
+girls who wait in Nairobi for returning porters with rupees to spend.
+
+The general average of health in the _safari_ was high. Only one porter
+died in the four months or more that we were out. But in spite of the
+low mortality there were many cases that came up for treatment. Akeley,
+with his long experience as a hunter and explorer, acted as the health
+department of the camp. His three or four remedies for all ills were
+quinine, calomel, witch-hazel, and zinc oxide adhesive plaster. And it
+was simply amazing what those four things could do when applied to the
+naturally healthy constitutions of the blacks. He cured a bowed tendon
+with witch-hazel and adhesive plaster in three or four days. A white man
+would have gone to a hospital for weeks.
+
+There were two common complaints. One was fever, but the fiercest fever
+took to its heels when charged by General Quinine and General Calomel.
+The other and more common complaint rose from abrasions and cuts. There
+was always a string of porters lined up for treatment and each went away
+happy with large pieces of adhesive plaster decorating his ebony skin. A
+simple piece of this plaster cured the worst and most inflamed cut, and
+it was seldom that a man came back for a second treatment. The plaster
+remained on until, weeks afterward, it fell off from sheer weariness.
+
+And once in a while there would be knife wounds, for whenever we killed
+a zebra as meat for the porters there would be a frenzied fight over the
+body. Each man, with knife out, was fighting for the choice pieces. It
+was like a scrimmage of human vultures--fighting, clawing, slashing and
+rending, with blood and meat flying about in a horrifying manner. I used
+to marvel that many were not killed, because each one was armed with a
+knife and each one was frenzied with savage greed. However, only once in
+a while did we have to treat the injured from this cause. Two men could
+fight for ten minutes over a piece of meat or a bone, but when finally
+the ownership was settled the victor could toss his meat to the ground
+with the certainty that no one else would take it.
+
+Jumma was my tent boy--a Wakamba with filed teeth. Jumma is the Swahili
+word for Friday and is about as common a name in East Africa as John is
+in white communities. I suppose I ought to call him "my man Friday," but
+he was so dignified that no one would dream of taking such a liberty
+with him. Jumma's thoughts ran to clothes. He wore a neat khaki
+suit--blouse and "shorts," a pair of blue puttees, a pair of stout
+shoes, and a dazzling red fez, from which sprang a long waving ostrich
+feather. My key ring hung at his belt, while around his wrist a neat
+watch was fastened. The longest march, through mud and rain and wind and
+sun, would find him as trim and clean at the finish as though he had
+just stepped out of a bandbox. Jumma had the happy faculty of never
+looking rumpled, a trick which I tried hard to learn, but all in vain.
+He was as black as ebony, yet his features were like those of a
+Caucasian; in fact, he strikingly resembled an old Chicago friend.
+
+[Photograph: Sulimani--Second Gunbearer]
+
+[Photograph: The Mess Tent]
+
+[Photograph: Where the Equator Crosses the Molo]
+
+Among our porters there were many types of features, and in a curious
+way many of them resembled people we had known at home. One porter had
+the eyes and expression of a young north-side girl; another had the walk
+and features of a prominent young Chicago man; and so on.
+
+Saa Sitaa was one of our brightest porters. His name means "Six O'clock"
+in Swahili, six o'clock in the native reckoning being our noon and our
+midnight. Just why he was given this significant name I never
+discovered. Perhaps he was born at that hour. It always used to amuse me
+to hear Abdi calling out, "_Enjani hapa, Saa Sitaa_"--"Come here, Six
+O'clock."
+
+Baa Baa was a porter who always used to sing a queer native chant in
+which those words were predominant. He would sing it by the hour while
+on the march, and before long his real name was replaced by the new one.
+Henceforth he will, no doubt, continue to be Baa Baa. He was promoted
+from porter to camera-bearer, but one day he could not be found when
+most needed, and he was reduced back to the ranks. I never heard him
+sing again. His heart was broken.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+BACK HOME FROM AFRICA. NINETY DAYS ON THE WAY THROUGH INDIA, JAVA,
+CHINA, MANILA AND JAPAN. THREE CHOW DOGS AND A FINAL SERIES OF AMUSING
+ADVENTURES
+
+
+At last the day came for us to say good-by to the happy hunting grounds
+and return to the perils and dangers of civilization. Occasional
+newspapers had filtered into the wild places and in the peaceful
+security of our tents we had read of frightful mining disasters in
+America, of unparalleled floods in France, of the clash and jangle of
+rival polar explorers, of disasters at sea, of rioting and lynching in
+Illinois. Automobile accidents were chronicled with staggering
+frequency, and there were murmurs of impending rebellions in India,
+political crises in England, feverish war talk in Germany, volcanic
+threats from Mount Etna, and a bewildering lot of other dreadful things.
+
+In contrast to this dire picture of life in civilized places, our
+pleasant days among the lions and wild beasts of Africa seemed curiously
+peaceful and orderly. Now we were to leave--to go back into the
+maelstrom of the busy places and bid farewell to our friendly savages
+and genial camp-fires. The Akeleys were remaining some months longer,
+but Stephenson and I were scheduled to leave.
+
+[Photograph: Just Before Saying Good-by to My Horse]
+
+[Photograph: Manila Bay]
+
+[Photograph: The Boro Boedoer Ruins]
+
+
+There were a few busy days in Nairobi. The horses were sold, the porters
+were paid off, the trophies were prepared for shipment, and our camp
+outfits and guns were either sold or packed for their journey homeward.
+There were affectionate and rather tearful partings from good friends,
+then a quick railway trip to the coast and a day or two of waiting in
+Mombasa. The hunting was over. Now it was a mere matter of getting home
+in ninety days, and for variety's sake we elected to go home through
+India, Java, China, and Japan. I was curious to note the changes that
+those countries had undergone since I had last seen them years before.
+
+We had some mild adventures. The first occurred in Mombasa, and concerns
+the strange conduct of two little white dogs that flashed in and out of
+our lives.
+
+One day when I returned to my room in the hotel at Mombasa I was
+surprised to find that two small dogs had established themselves
+therein. The room boy knew nothing about them; the people around the
+hotel did not remember having ever seen them before. No clue to their
+owner was obtainable, and we regarded their advent as something of a
+mild kind of miracle. They played about the room as if they had long
+been there. When we went out they were at our heels and in the course of
+our wanderings through the old streets of the town the two dogs were
+always close at hand, or, rather, close at feet. When I worked in the
+room at the hotel they lay on the floor or played near my table and made
+no effort to rush away to the many temptations of the warm sunshine
+outside. I became much attached to them. Such steadfast devotion from
+strange dogs is always flattering.
+
+Then our ship, the _Umzumbi_, South Africa to Bombay, came into the
+harbor and anchored a quarter of a mile out from the custom-house dock.
+We decided to go out and visit her and accordingly shut the door to
+prevent the two little dogs from joining us. Before we reached the dock
+they were with us, however, having escaped some way or other. And when
+we got into the rowboat to go out they looked appealingly after us from
+the dripping steps of the boat landing. We were sorry, but really we
+couldn't take them to the ship.
+
+[Drawing: _The Two Dogs of Mombasa_]
+
+Suddenly there was a splash, and one of the little dogs was bravely
+swimming after us. He wasn't built for swimming, but he was making a
+gallant effort. We stopped and picked him up, a drippy but grateful
+little creature. Then we had to row back to get the other one. By much
+strategy we succeeded in getting on board the _Umzumbi_ without taking
+them with us, but as we were not sailing until the afternoon we stayed
+on board only long enough to see that our state-room arrangements were
+satisfactory and to meet the chief steward.
+
+On our way back through the town the dogs got lost from us, but when we
+reached the room at the hotel they were comfortably installed in the
+square of sunshine that streamed through the window. They refused to
+break home ties. Several more times that day we executed elaborate
+manoeuvers to lose them without the painful formality of saying
+good-by. But all in vain. We tried to give them away and finally
+succeeded in persuading one woman from up Uganda way that they would be
+useful to her.
+
+She was considering the matter when we, feeling like heartless
+criminals, stole away from the room, leaving it locked, and leaving two
+trustful and trusting little dogs incarcerated within. We told the
+proprietor of our dastardly conduct, but cautioned him not to liberate
+the captives until the steamer was hull down on the horizon. So by this
+time I suppose there are two little white dogs searching Mombasa for two
+missing Americans and wondering at the duplicity of human nature.
+
+We imagined that the ship from Mombasa to Bombay would be nearly
+uninhabited by passengers. Few people are supposed to cross that part of
+the Indian Ocean. But when we embarked on the _Umzumbi_ on February
+first we found the ship full. There were British army officers bound for
+India, rich Parsees bound from Zanzibar to Bombay, two elderly American
+churchmen bound from the missionary fields of Rhodesia to inspect the
+missionary fields of India; two or three traveling men, a South African
+legislator bound for India on recreation bent, and a few others.
+
+After leaving Mombasa our travels were upon crowded ships, on crowded
+trains, and from one crowded hotel to another crowded hotel. It seemed
+as if the whole world had suddenly decided to see the rest of the world.
+
+Bombay was crowded and we barely succeeded in getting rooms at the Taj
+Mahal. There were swarms of Americans outward bound and inward bound.
+You couldn't go down a street without encountering scores of new sun
+hats and red-bound "Murrays." The taxicabs were full of eager faces
+peering out inquiringly at the monuments and points of interest that
+flashed past.
+
+The train to Agra was crowded and we succeeded in getting reservations
+only by the skin of our teeth. Also the hotels at Agra were jammed and
+many people were being turned away, while the procession of carriages
+jogging out toward the Taj Mahal was like an endless chain. Upon all
+sides as you paused in spellbound rapture before the most beautiful
+building in the world, you heard the voice of the tourist explaining the
+beauties of the structure.
+
+[Drawing: _During the Tourist Rush_]
+
+The Taj Mahal is justly called the most beautiful edifice in the world.
+It is so exquisite in its architecture and its ornamentation that one
+may believe the story that it was designed by a poet and constructed by
+a jeweler. It was built by Shah Jehan as a memorial to his wife and for
+centuries it has stood as a token of his great love for her.
+
+When I visited it this year I was surprised to find that Lord Curzon had
+placed within the great marble dome a hanging lamp as a memorial to his
+own wife. It seemed like a shocking piece of presumption--much as if the
+president of France should hang a memorial to one of his own family over
+the sarcophagus of Napoleon, or a president of the United States should
+do the same at Washington's tomb at Mount Vernon. It seemed like an
+inexpensive way of diverting the most beautiful structure of the world
+to personal uses.
+
+And yet later I was compelled to modify this opinion when I saw how much
+excellent work Lord Curzon did toward restoring the old palaces of Agra
+and preserving them for future generations. As a reward for this work,
+perhaps, there may have been some justification in placing a memorial
+lamp in the dome of the Taj, especially as the lamp is exquisite in
+workmanship and adds rather than detracts from the stately beauty of the
+interior. But just the same the first verdict of the spectator is that
+Lord Curzon displayed a colossal egotism in so doing.
+
+The tourist's beaten track in India was as thronged with American
+sightseers as the chateau country in France. Lucknow was crowded,
+Benares was crowded, Calcutta was crowded, and the trains that ran in
+all directions were crowded. A traveler wore a look of perpetual anxiety
+lest he should fail to get hotel or railway accommodations.
+
+The India of one's imagination--the somber land of mystery, of untold
+riches, of eastern enchantment, of far-away romance--was gone, buried
+under picture post-cards, hustling tourists, and all the commonplaces of
+a popular tourist track. It was distinctly disappointing from one point
+of view, and yet, I suppose, one should rejoice that his fellow
+countrymen have cash and energy enough to travel in distant places, even
+though they destroy the romantic charm of those places by so doing.
+
+[Drawing: _Tourists in India_]
+
+The rush of Americans through India was as brisk as was the rush of
+Americans through Europe ten years ago. Age was no handicap. There were
+old couples, sixty, seventy, and eighty years old, jogging along as
+eagerly and excitedly as young bridal couples. The conversation one
+encountered was always pretty much the same--how such a train was
+crowded, how accommodations could not be secured at such a hotel, how
+poor the hotels were, and how long they would have to wait to get a
+berth on some outgoing ship. There were many people hung up in Bombay
+and Calcutta vainly trying to get away, but the boats were booked full
+for two or more voyages ahead.
+
+One of the peculiarities of Indian travel has been the fact that most
+tourists plan to be in India during December, January and February.
+Hence they arrive in bunches, and try to get away in a bunch, which is
+impossible owing to the limited capacity of the steamships. This year
+the swarms of tourists have been so great that many of them could not
+get out of the country until late in March and along in April.
+
+The Americans have become the great travelers of the world. In India
+there are two American tourists for one of all other nationalities. The
+hotel registers bristle with U.S.A. addresses and the shops and hotels
+regard the American trade as being the most profitable. One desirable
+result of the American tendency to fare afield has been the steady
+improvement in hotel and railway accommodations in the Far East.
+
+We said good-by to India without much regret; in fact, we were elated to
+secure accommodations on a small Indo-China boat that made the run to
+Penang and Singapore in about eight days. No berths could be secured on
+the ships that go by the way of Burma. Those ships were booked full for
+several trips ahead. So we settled down comfortably on the good ship Lai
+Sang and droned lazily down through the Bay of Bengal. There were
+accommodations for only twelve first-class passengers, and there were
+only six on board. We had elbow room for the first time since leaving
+Africa.
+
+When we stopped at Penang there were two distinct sensations. One was
+that Georgetown, the capital of the Island of Penang, is the prettiest
+tropical city I have ever seen; and the other was the first shock of the
+rubber craze. From that time on we were constantly in a seething roar of
+rubber talk; everybody was buying rubber shares and everybody else was
+talking about starting rubber plantations. The fever was epidemic.
+Planters were destroying profitable cocoanut groves in order to replace
+them with rubber trees. Nearly every local resident was putting his last
+cent in rubber shares and the tales of suddenly increased wealth
+inflamed the imaginations and cupidity of every one who heard them. I
+mentally jotted down the names of one or two companies that are going to
+declare enormous dividends soon, but that's as far as I've got in my
+rubber investments.
+
+Penang, like Hongkong, is an island. The city on the island is
+Georgetown, while the city on Hongkong is Victoria; but you will never
+hear any one speak of Georgetown or Victoria. It is just Penang and
+Hongkong, and the other names are useless incumbrances.
+
+Singapore was crowded with Americans fighting for accommodations on the
+China and Japan steamers; other Americans fighting to get reservations
+on the Java steamers; still other Americans who, in despair, were going
+to Hongkong by way of Borneo and the Philippines. They were willing to
+go first, second or third class--any way at all to get on a ship.
+
+[Drawing: _At Raffles' Hotel_]
+
+The Singapore hotels were crowded and we got the last room in the
+Raffles Hotel. The great and stately veranda, which serves the double
+purpose of a bar and an out-of-door reception-room, was usually crowded.
+That veranda is the redeeming feature of Raffles Hotel. In other
+respects this great hotel, situated at the cross-roads where East and
+West and North and South meet, is not up to what a good hotel should be.
+
+We got the last state-room on a steamer to Java, and to our great
+surprise we found the ship to be the nicest we had traveled on, and the
+cooking to rival that of the great restaurants of Paris.
+
+Cholera was rampant in certain parts of Java, but that didn't stop the
+sightseers. Nothing less than an earthquake or a lost letter of credit
+could have stopped them.
+
+Our adventures in Java were a repetition of "crowds." The Hotel des
+Indes in Batavia was crowded and we got the last room. The railways were
+crowded, but not so much as the ones in India, and the carriages are
+most comfortable.
+
+For a week we did volcanoes and gorgeous scenery, and realized what a
+delightful place Java is. It is even nicer than Japan, and the hotels
+are the best in the East.
+
+My chief purpose in going to Java was to get a Javanese waterwheel. They
+had one at the world's fair in Chicago, and I have remembered it ever
+since as one of the most musical things I have ever heard. A friend of
+mine wanted me to get him one and I volunteered to do so. I supposed
+that we would hear waterwheels just as soon as we got off the ship. But
+I was evidently mistaken.
+
+Nobody in Java, so far as I could discover, had ever seen or heard of a
+Javanese waterwheel. I inquired of dozens of people--people who had
+lived there all their lives--but they looked blank when I spoke of
+waterwheels. I drew pictures of it, but that didn't enlighten them.
+
+Finally in despair, after a week of vain searching, I drew the plans for
+a waterwheel and had it made. And I am taking it home with me, hoping
+that it may make music. Next year, owing to the demand I created for
+waterwheels, I suppose the Javanese will start making them for the
+tourist trade.
+
+[Drawing: _Java in a State of High Cultivation_]
+
+Just as Russia is the land of "nitchevo," Spain the land of "manana,"
+and China the land of "maskee," so Java is the land of "never mind." You
+will hear the expression dozens of times in the course of a talk between
+residents of Java--at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of
+sentences.
+
+"I think it will rain to-morrow, but--never mind."
+
+"I missed the train, but--never mind."
+
+"I'm not feeling well, but--never mind."
+
+You hear it all the time, all through Java.
+
+In Java we had the best coffee we had struck since leaving Paris, in
+fact, the first real good coffee we had found. Even worthy Abdullah, our
+camp cook, was considerable of a failure at coffee making. The Boro
+Boedoer ruins are among the most stupendous in the world; the volcanoes
+of Java are like chimneys in Pittsburg, the terraced rice fields are
+beautiful beyond belief, but--never mind. I think I shall remember Java
+chiefly for its delicious coffee and for my house-to-house hunt for a
+waterwheel.
+
+I was sitting one day in the Singapore club talking to Colonel Glover of
+the British army, when a hand tapped me on my shoulder. I looked around
+and there stood the King of Christmas Island. I no more expected to see
+him than I did the great Emperor Charlemagne, for it had been many years
+since we were college mates at Purdue University. His story is romantic.
+He is the nephew of Sir John Murray, who owns immense phosphate deposits
+in Christmas Island, two hundred miles south of Java Head. Years ago he
+went out to help work these great deposits and has climbed up until now
+he is the virtual head of the island. His authority is absolute and he
+has come to be called the King of Christmas Island. His every-day name
+is that of his distinguished uncle, Sir John, but his Sunday name is
+"King."
+
+For a day or two we motored around Singapore and it was worth seeing to
+note how the tourists stared when I casually said, "Well, King, let's
+have a bamboo." In a day or two he was going to meet his wife, who was
+just coming from England with a little three-months-old crown prince
+whom he had not yet seen. Then, together, the royal family was going
+back to Christmas Island on one of the king's ships.
+
+[Drawing: _The Call of the East_]
+
+The China coast is distinguished for its excellent United States
+consular officials. And it hasn't been so for many years. Our
+representative in Singapore, Mr. Dubois, is one of the best men I have
+yet encountered in one of our consulates. He is a new-comer in Singapore
+and yet in his few months he has added more prestige to our consulate
+general than all the former men put together. One can not but wonder why
+he is not a minister or an ambassador, instead of only a consul general.
+
+Hongkong has been fortunate in having an excellent representative in Mr.
+Rublee, and his recent untimely death is a distinct loss to the country.
+Mr. Wilder is in Shanghai and he is decidedly a man of the best mental
+and temperamental equipment. So now an American traveler may go up and
+down the China coast and "point with pride" to his nation's
+representatives. How different it was ten or twelve years ago!
+
+We barely managed to get on board the _Prinz Ludwig_--Singapore to
+Hongkong. It is one of the N.D. Lloyd's crack ships and everybody tries
+to take it. We got the last cabin, as usual, and spent hours thanking
+our lucky stars.
+
+The China Sea is chronically disposed to be disagreeable, but on this
+occasion it was quite well behaved. There were three days of delightful
+sunshine and then a sudden blighting chill in the air. We landed in
+Hongkong with overcoats buttoned up and with garments drenched by the
+rains and mist clouds that battled around the great peaks of this little
+island. The hotels were jammed to the sidewalks and we got the last room
+at the Hongkong Hotel, while throngs were turned away; the steamers for
+the States were booked full for several voyages ahead and tourists were
+rushing around in despair. The _Asia_ had been booked up to the limit
+for weeks and it seemed as if we might have to wait a long time before
+getting berths on any ship. But some one unexpectedly had to give up a
+state-room and we were fortunate in getting it.
+
+I had a great desire to see Manila again. It had been ten years since I
+left there in the "days of the empire" and everything in me quivered
+with longing to revisit the place where I spent my golden period of
+adventure. We booked on the old _Yuen Sang_, a friend of former days,
+and the skipper, Captain Percy Rolfe, handsome, cultured, and capable,
+was still in command. He loves the China Sea and has steadfastly refused
+to be lured away by offers of greater ships and more important commands.
+When we engaged our passage the agent warned us that the vessel was
+carrying a cargo of naphtha and kerosene and that we might not wish to
+risk it; but we went. A Jap and a Chinaman were the only two other
+passengers, and they were invisible during the sixty hours to cross.
+
+We steamed out of Hongkong in a chilling wind and at once plunged into a
+fog, but the next morning we ran into smooth seas and warm weather. A
+full moon hung over the empty waste of waters and the nights were
+gorgeous.
+
+As we neared the coast of Luzon I became much excited, for in my memory
+were those vivid, expectant days of old when our little American fleet
+crossed this selfsame stretch of sea to find and destroy the Spanish
+ships. I lived over again those boding days when the air was electric
+with impending danger.
+
+It was long before daylight when the _Yuen Sang_, at half-speed, arrived
+at Corregidor. The captain wished to report his number to the signal
+station, and we had to wait until light had come before the ship could
+enter. So the engines were stopped and for an hour we drifted on under
+the ship's momentum. The silencing of the engines on a ship is always
+ominous, and just now, with the dim bulk of Corregidor looming grimly
+before us, it seemed as if there was something particularly sinister
+about our stealthy approach.
+
+From five o'clock onward we stood on the bridge, our voices
+unconsciously hushed as we spoke. Here was where the _Baltimore_ had
+dropped a Greek fire life preserver and for a long time it had bobbed
+about on the tumbling sea, weird and terrifying to those who didn't know
+what it was. There was where the soot in the McCulloch's funnel had
+suddenly blazed up like the chimney of a blast furnace. And over there
+on the lower edge of the black bulk of the island was where a little
+signal light had flared up and then died out, leaving every man on our
+ships tense with expectant dread, and all about us here had reigned a
+silence so penetrating that it in itself was harder to bear than the
+thunder and flash of guns.
+
+And still we drifted on, nearer and nearer to Boca Chica, the northern
+passage into Manila Bay. Dawn and light came slowly. In poetry the dawn
+of the tropics may come up like thunder and the transition of darkness
+to light may be startling and sudden, but in my own experience the
+tropic dawn comes slowly and pervadingly. First a faint grayness,
+gradually growing brighter until the sun shoots up joyous and golden in
+its glory, painting the skies with flaming banners and penciling the
+tips and edges of clouds with the fires of morning. When we lazily
+drifted in toward Corregidor from the China Sea that morning, it was
+light enough to see distinctly for nearly an hour before the sun rose.
+
+Presently a fluttering string of signal flags appeared on the top of the
+island, and a moment later our engines resumed their throbbing and we
+headed boldly into Boca Chica. Here on the left was Mariveles Bay, the
+scene of the famous German ship, _Irene_, incident, which electrified
+the world.
+
+Every point that rose before my eyes was pregnant with historic memories
+and suggestions. I was thrilled and yet I half-dreaded my return to
+Manila, for fear that the peace and commercialism of the present days
+would be disappointing to one who knew it when each day was filled with
+trouble and threats of trouble; when the city lay always as if under an
+impending cloud and when the borders of the bay rang with the thunder of
+guns and the sputter of musketry.
+
+As the _Yuen Sang_ steamed across the twenty-five miles of the bay it
+seemed as if it were only yesterday that I had been there. The waters
+were glassy and smooth, just as the bay used to be every morning of the
+long blockade, when the air was still and the broad glistening water was
+tranquil and at rest.
+
+The surprises came in Manila. Great changes had taken place in the
+harbor, new breakwaters were where there had been none before, new
+buildings were up, and still more were building. Big electric cars
+rushed along where formerly the snail-like horse cars crept painfully
+by. The city was unbelievably clean and the main streets were full of
+busy life.
+
+I visited the old houses where we had once lived in economical splendor,
+with servants and carriages and expenses that were microscopic as
+compared to those of the present day. Upon all sides were the visible
+evidences that some day Manila will be the finest city of the Orient if
+the time ever comes when capital may feel assured that our occupation
+has some prospect of permanence.
+
+In my old days I used to know a beautiful Mestiza girl in Manila. She
+was very pretty and very nice. I used to draw pictures of her and
+struggle bravely with the Spanish language. And she was kind and patient
+with my efforts to learn. Her name was Victoria and she kept a little
+shop where she and her ancestors for generations before had sold silk
+jusi and pina cloth. I visited her often there and sometimes went out to
+her home, a beautiful big Spanish house in Calle Zarigoza.
+
+I determined to find her and went over to her shop. Fatal mistake! Ten
+years and the tropics work many changes in the soft-eyed daughters south
+of the fifteenth degree of latitude.
+
+I once read a story by Pierre Loti, a sad and haunting story of how he
+sought, after years of absence, to find an old-time sweetheart in
+Stamboul. He didn't find her and he should be grateful for his failure.
+
+[Drawing: _Ten Years After_]
+
+I found Victoria. She recognized me at once, although I hardly knew in
+her the slender, pretty Victoria of old. Her eyes were soft and nice,
+but smallpox had pitted her nose and cheeks and the deadly incubus of
+flesh had upholstered her in many soft and cushiony folds. I asked her
+if she had married and she said she never had, which information I
+matched with promptness. She spoke English quite well and seemed
+prosperous and--yes, motherly. There's no other word for it, although
+she is now hardly thirty.
+
+It was a terrible disappointment, a collapse of delightful memories, and
+as I walked away from her little silk shop with a vague promise to call
+again I knew perfectly well that I should never go back.
+
+I left Manila after less than two days and rolled and plunged and
+tumbled back across the China Sea to Hongkong. I bought a little chow
+dog puppy from the Chinese steward on board, but I suppose it will grow
+up and get fat one of these days, too. Allison Armour and his nephew,
+Norman Armour, were with us and in Hongkong the latter bought two chow
+dog puppies to send home. They looked exactly like teddy bears. Later he
+resolved that the trouble and risk were too great, inasmuch as he was
+not returning by the Pacific, so he gave them to me. And with three chow
+dogs and my friend Stephenson I embarked on the _Asia_ for the
+twenty-eight day trip to Frisco.
+
+The ship was jammed and we found a little fat man consigned to the sofa
+in our state-room. He was pleasant looking, but we little realized what
+hours of nocturnal horror were in store for us. He was the champion
+snorist of the five continents. He could snore in all keys, all
+languages, all directions, and it was like trying to sleep in the same
+room with a fog-horn. Nothing could waken him and he went to sleep
+before he struck the bed. And from that moment on through the night he
+tried the acoustic properties of that end of the ship to the utmost.
+After two or three nights of sleeplessness we resolved to rebel, mutiny,
+revolt, and if necessary joyfully to commit justifiable homicide.
+
+[Drawing: _Never an American Flag_]
+
+One night Stephenson turned on the light and reached for his cane. "What
+are you going to do? Kill him?" I asked eagerly. But he only poked at
+the quivering form to awaken it, and merely succeeded in changing the
+key from B flat to a discord of minors.
+
+At Yokohama somebody got off and by buying an extra berth we moved into
+another state-room and slept for twenty-four hours. We called him
+"Snoring Cupid," because of his cherubic appearance and proficiency in
+snoring.
+
+It was the cherry blossom season in Japan. Through the constant rain we
+saw the hillsides pink with loveliness. But it was cold and
+disheartening and after five days in Japan we turned with relief to the
+voyage homeward. And it was very pleasant. Lots of pleasant things
+happened, but nothing more.
+
+It is good to be back where the American flag is a familiar sight and
+not a curiosity. We saw thousands and thousands of merchant ships, but
+except in Manila and Honolulu we never saw a solitary American flag on
+one of them.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+And that's the end of our hunting trip. We are now back where we have to
+pay two or three times as much for things as we did in the Orient. A
+cigar that costs three cents gold in Manila costs twelve and one-half
+cents gold in San Francisco! But--never mind. A pleasant time was had.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII
+
+WAYS AND MEANS. WHAT TO TAKE AND WHAT NOT TO TAKE, INFORMATION FOR THOSE
+THAT WISH, INTEND OR HOPE TO HUNT IN THE AFRICAN HIGHLANDS
+
+
+When one returns to America after some time in the African game country,
+he is assailed by many questions from others who wish, intend, or hope
+to make a similar trip. Almost without variation the questioner will ask
+about the cost, about the danger from fever and sickness, about snakes
+and insects, about the tempers of the tribes one encounters, and then,
+if he be a specialist, he will ask about the rifles and the camp
+equipment. As these familiar and oft repeated inquiries have been made
+by friends who had read my African letters, I must assume that the
+features of an African hunting trip, about which people are most
+curious, were very imperfectly answered in the preceding chapters.
+Hence, this supplementary chapter, dealing briefly with the ways and
+means of such a trip, is added for the enlightenment of such readers as
+may be planning a journey into those fascinating regions of Africa where
+I have so recently been.
+
+As to the cost of a trip of three or more months in the field I should
+say that about one thousand dollars a month would amply cover the total
+expenses from New York back to New York. This amount would include
+passage money, guns, ammunition, landing charges, commissions, camera
+expenses on a reasonable scale, tents, customs--in fact all the
+incidental items which are not customarily included in the estimate
+given by the Nairobi outfitters. These firms, chief of which are the
+Newland, Tarlton and Company, Limited, which directed Colonel
+Roosevelt's _safari_, and the Boma Trading Company, which directed the
+Duke of Connaught's hunt, agree to outfit a party at a cost of about
+five-hundred dollars a month for each white man. For this amount they
+furnish everything except your ammunition, clothes, medicines, camera
+supplies, export and import duties, mounting of trophies, passage money
+to and from Africa, and such items. To particularize, they agree to
+supply for this amount, a complete outfit of tents, foods, porters, camp
+attendants, gunbearers, horses, mules or ox teams, as may be required,
+and a native head-man or overseer.
+
+One who wished to do so could telegraph ahead to have one of the Nairobi
+outfitting firms prepare a one, two or three months' hunt, or _safari_,
+and then, with only a suit-case he could arrive, with the certainty that
+everything would be in readiness. There would be no worry or concern
+about any feature of that part of the work. He would be relieved of the
+anxiety of preparation, and it is hardly likely that he would ever
+regret having taken this course. The dealings of our _safari_ with
+Messrs. Newland and Tarlton were most satisfactory in all respects and
+the charges they made were entirely reasonable. To the one who desires
+to make this trip in this, the simplest way, there is the need of giving
+only one suggestion: Let him write to one of the outfitting firms,
+stating the length of time that he can spend in the field, the class of
+game that he chiefly wishes to get, the number of white men in his
+party, and the season of the year that he plans to be in Africa. The
+outfitters will then answer, giving all the particulars of cost and
+equipment. This is the course that I should recommend for the average
+hunter who has had no previous experience in Africa. It will save him
+the trouble of making an endless amount of preparation, much of which
+will be useless because of his ignorance of conditions in that field of
+sport.
+
+In the case of our own _safari_, we bought our guns, tents, ammunition,
+foods and entire equipment in London and had it shipped to Nairobi. This
+equipment contemplated a trip of six months in the field, and included
+sixty-five "chop boxes" of sixty pounds each, containing foods. These
+chop boxes were of wood, with lids and locks, twenty of which were tin
+lined for use in packing specimens later in the trip, and all marked
+with bands of various colors to identify their contents. The boxes
+contained the following supplies:
+
+
+TWENTY CASES (RED BAND)
+
+  Two tins imperial cheese.
+  One pound Ceylon tea.
+  One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.
+  One four-pound tin granulated sugar.
+  Two tins ox tongue.
+  One tin oxford sausage.
+  Two tins sardines.
+  Two tins kippered herrings.
+  Three tins deviled ham (Underwood's).
+  Two tins jam (assorted).
+  Two tins marmalade (Dundee).
+  Three half-pound tins butter.
+  Three half-pound tins dripping.
+  Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.
+  Two tins small captain biscuit.
+  Two tins baked beans, Heinz (tomato sauce).
+  One half-pound tin salt.
+  One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).
+  Two parchment skins pea soup.
+  One one and one-half pound tin Scotch oatmeal.
+
+
+TWENTY CASES (BLUE BAND)
+
+  Two tins baked beans (Heinz) (tomato sauce).
+  One tin bologna sausage.
+  One tin sardines.
+  One tin sardines, smoked.
+  Two one-pound tins camp, pie.
+  Five tins jam, assorted.
+  Two tins marmalade (Dundee).
+  Five half-pound tins butter.
+  Three half-pound tins dripping.
+  Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.
+  Two tins imperial cheese.
+  One one and one-quarter pound tin Ceylon tea.
+  One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.
+  One four pound tin granulated sugar.
+  One quarter-pound tin cocoa.
+  Two tins camp biscuit.
+  One half-pound tin salt.
+  One one and one-half tin Scotch oatmeal.
+  One one-pound tin lentils.
+  One tin mixed vegetables (dried).
+  One two-pound tin German prunes.
+  Six soup squares.
+  One ounce W. pepper.
+  Two sponge cloths.
+  One-half quire kitchen paper.
+  One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).
+
+
+SIXTEEN CASES (GREEN BAND)
+
+  Three fourteen-pound tins self-raising flour.
+  Two cases (black band) containing fifteen bottles lime juice (plain)
+    Montserrat.
+  Two cases, each containing one dozen Scotch whisky.
+  Two cases (red and blue band) thirty pounds bacon, well packed in
+    salt.
+  Two cases (yellow and black band) five ten-pound tins plaster of
+    Paris for making casts of animals.
+  One case (red and green band) fifty pounds sperm candles--large size
+    (carriage).
+  Four folding lanterns.
+
+The following items to be equally divided into as many lots as necessary
+to make sixty-pound cases:
+
+  Eight Edam cheeses.
+  Twenty tins bovril.
+  Twenty two-pound tins sultana raisins.
+  Ten two-pound tins currants.
+  Ten one-pound tins macaroni.
+  Thirty tins Underwood deviled ham.
+  Eighty tablets carbolic soap.
+  Eighty packets toilet paper.
+  Ten bottles Enos' fruit salt.
+  Twenty one-pound tins plum pudding.
+  Six tins curry powder.
+  Twenty one-pound tins yellow Dubbin.
+  Six one-pound tins veterinary vaseline.
+  Six one-pound tins powdered sugar.
+  Six tin openers.
+  Twelve tins asparagus tips.
+  Twelve tins black mushrooms.
+  Six large bottles Pond's extract.
+  Twelve ten-yard spools zinc oxide surgeon's tape one inch wide.
+  Two small bottles Worcestershire sauce.
+
+In addition to the foregoing we added the following equipment of table
+ware:
+
+  Eight white enamel soup plates--light weight.
+  Eight white enamel dinner plates--light weight.
+  Three white enamel vegetable dishes--medium size.
+  Six one-pint cups.
+  Eight knives and forks.
+  Twelve teaspoons.
+  Six soup spoons.
+  Six large table-spoons.
+  One carving knife and fork.
+  Six white enamel oatmeal dishes.
+
+As our tent equipment and some of the miscellanies necessary to our
+expedition, the subjoined articles were procured:
+
+  Four double roof ridge tents 10 by 8--4 feet walls, in valises.
+  One extra fly of above size, with poles, ropes, etc, complete.
+  Five ground sheets for above, one foot larger each way,
+    _i.e._, 11 by 9.
+  Four mosquito nets for one-half tents, 9 feet long.
+  Four circular canvas baths.
+  Twelve green, round-bottom bags 43 by 30.
+  Four hold-all bags with padlocks.
+  Two fifty-yard coils 1 1-4 Manila rope.
+  One pair wood blocks for 1 1-4 brass sheaves, strapped with tails.
+  Four four-quart tin water bottles.
+  Two eight-quart Uganda water bottles.
+  Four large canvas water buckets.
+  One gross No. 1 circlets.
+  One punch and die.
+
+The foregoing lot of supplies were ordered through Newland, Tarlton and
+Company's agent at 166 Piccadilly, London, and were ready when we
+reached London.
+
+
+Medicines and Surgical Equipment
+
+It is well to provide a good store of medicines and some instruments,
+even though, as in our case, we had little occasion to use any of it.
+One of the Burroughs and Wellcome medicine cases "for East Africa" is
+compact and well selected. In addition there should be plenty of zinc
+oxide adhesive plaster, some bandages and some hypodermic syringes for
+use in case of wounds which might lead to blood poisoning. In our first
+experience with lions we always went prepared for wounds of this sort,
+but later we took no precautions whatever and fortunately had no
+occasion for heroic measures. At the same time, it is far wiser always
+to be prepared.
+
+We were also well supplied with tick medicines, but in spite of the fact
+that we encountered millions of ticks, they gave us no concern and no
+tick preventatives were used. Quinine and calomel are essentials and may
+be bought in Nairobi.
+
+
+Rifles
+
+It is important that each hunter include in his battery one heavy
+double-barreled cordite rifle for use at close quarters where a shocking
+impact is desirable. Each of our party had a .475 Jeffery, which we
+found to be entirely satisfactory, and which served us as well as though
+we had used the more expensive Holland and Holland's .450. I do not
+presume to know much about the relative merits of rifles, but after an
+experience of four and a half months with the Jeffery's .475, I feel
+justified in saying that this type would meet all requirements reliably.
+These rifles cost thirty-five guineas each.
+
+Mr. Akeley and I each had a nine millimeter Mannlicher, which we found
+to be unsatisfactory, either through fault of our own or of the rifle.
+We had a feeling that the weight of the ball was too great for the
+charge of powder. Others may favor it, but I should not include it in my
+battery if I were to go again. This type costs twelve guineas.
+
+Mr. Stephenson used a .318 Mauser, which he found most satisfactory. We
+also had three .256 Mannlichers, which in my experience is a type for
+which too much praise can not be given. It is also a twelve guinea
+rifle.
+
+In mentioning these three rifles of foreign make, I do not wish to imply
+that they are superior to our own American guns. Colonel Roosevelt used
+a Winchester .405 and a Springfield, both of which he considered most
+desirable. I think if I were to go again I should take a .405 as my
+second gun, heavy enough for all purposes except the close-quarter work
+where the big cordite double-barrels are necessary.
+
+The matter of a battery is one which each sportsman should determine for
+himself. There are many good types and a man is naturally inclined to
+favor those with which he is familiar.
+
+We also carried shot guns, one ten-gauge which, with buck shot, makes a
+formidable weapon for stopping charges of soft-skinned animals at close
+range; and two twenty-gauge Parkers for bird shooting.
+
+In addition, we included revolvers, none of which we fired or needed at
+any time in Africa. Perhaps a heavy six-shooter might some time be a
+valuable reserve, but our experience leads me to think that it would
+generally repose quietly in camp at all times.
+
+In the way of ammunition for a six-months' shoot, we took for each
+cordite rifle, 200 full mantle, 200 soft nose and 100 split cartridges.
+For the 9 millimeter, we took for each rifle 450 solids, 500 splits and
+500 soft-nosed bullets, and practically the same for the .256
+Mannlichers. We found that we had far more ammunition than we required,
+especially the solids for the smaller rifles, but it is better to have
+too much than to have the fear of running short. One should not forget
+that he is likely to shoot more than in his wildest dreams he supposed
+possible and the meanest feeling on a hunt is to have constantly to
+economize cartridges.
+
+None of us used telescope sights but by many sportsmen they are
+considered highly desirable in African shooting where often the range is
+great and the light confusing.
+
+
+Personal Equipment
+
+When we stopped in New York on our way to Africa, we talked with Mr.
+Bayard Dominick, who had just returned from such a trip as we had in
+mind, and from him secured a list of articles which he found to be
+sufficient and equal to all needs. We used this list to guide us and
+except in minor details, assembled a similar equipment:
+
+  Two suits--coat and breeches--gabardine or khaki.
+  One belt.
+  Two knives--one hunting-knife, one jack-knife.
+  Three pair cloth putties.
+  Three flannel shirts (I actually only used two).
+  Six suits summer flannels, merino, long drawers.
+  Three pair Abercrombie lightest shoes (one pair rubber soles).
+  Three colored silk handkerchiefs.
+  Two face towels--two bath towels.
+  Three khaki cartridge holders to put on shirts to
+    hold big cartridges, one for each shirt.
+  One pair long trousers to put on at night, khaki.
+  Two suits flannel pajamas.
+  Eight pair socks (I used gray Jaeger socks, fine).
+  One light west sweater.
+  One Mackinaw coat (not absolutely necessary).
+  One rubber coat.
+  One pair mosquito boots (Lawn and Alder, London).
+    Soft leather top boots for evening wear in camp.
+  Five leather pockets to hold cartridges to go on belt.
+  Three whetstones (one for self and two for gunbearers).
+  One helmet (we used Gyppy pattern Army and Navy stores).
+  One double terai hat, brown (Army and Navy stores).
+  One six-_or_eight-foot pocket tape of steel to measure horns.
+  One compass.
+  One diary.
+  Writing materials.
+  Toilet articles.
+
+Articles for personal use, however, may be determined by the wishes and
+experiences of the individual.
+
+We each had good Zeiss glasses, which are essential, and later, in
+Nairobi, were able to obtain a satisfactory replenishment of hunting
+clothes and shoes.
+
+
+Cameras
+
+Everybody who goes shooting will want at least one camera if only for
+the purpose of having his picture taken with his first lion, if he is
+successful in getting one. Mr. Akeley made special preparations for
+taking fine photographs, and for this reason carried a complete outfit,
+even to a dark-room equipment for developing negatives and moving
+picture films in the field. He carried a naturalist's graflex, a small
+hand camera and a moving-picture machine. Mr. Stephenson had a 3A Kodak,
+I had the same and also a Verascope stereoscopic camera. We used films
+and plates and found no deterioration in them even after several months
+in the field. Films and camera supplies may be purchased in Nairobi; and
+also the developing and printing may be done most satisfactorily in the
+town.
+
+
+Fevers and Sickness
+
+It is my belief that the dangers of this sort are magnified in the
+imaginations of those who contemplate a trip to East Africa. Very little
+of the hunting is done in jungles--in fact there are few jungles except
+on the slopes of the mountains and along the course of streams. Our
+_safari_ went into the Athi Plains, along the Athi River down the Tana
+River, up on Mount Kenia and later on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, along the
+Nzoia River, and up Mount Elgon. Coming out of this district, we passed
+through the Rift Valley and part of our _safari_ went up to Lake
+Hannington. So, from personal experience, I can speak with knowledge of
+only these sections. Along the Tana we were in fever country, the
+altitude being only about thirty-five hundred feet. And yet only two of
+our party had touches of fever, so light that they readily yielded to
+quinine. This was tick country, and we had been led to believe that we
+should be fearfully pestered with these insects. But there was almost no
+annoyance from them, due, perhaps, to a good deal of care in keeping
+them out of our clothes. There were many mosquitoes in this section, but
+effective mosquito nets over our cots protected us from them.
+
+On Mount Kenia, the high Guas Ngishu Plateau and Mount Elgon, the
+thought of sickness was entirely absent. These districts were found to
+be salubrious and free from ticks and mosquitoes.
+
+
+Snakes
+
+Before going to Africa, I must admit that the thought of serpents
+occasioned much anxiety. I didn't like the idea of tramping around
+through grass and reeds where poisonous snakes might be found. And yet,
+after a few days in the field, I never seriously thought of snakes as a
+possible, or rather probable, source of danger. In four and a half
+months, in all kinds of country, much of the time on foot, I saw only
+six live snakes. They were all small and only two, a puff adder and a
+little viper, were known to be venomous. Our porters, with bare feet and
+legs, penetrated all kinds of snaky-looking spots and yet not one was
+bitten. In fact, I have never heard of any one being bitten by snakes in
+East Africa, and for this reason I can not avoid the conclusion that the
+fear of snakes need not be seriously considered as an element of danger
+in the country.
+
+
+The Natives
+
+So many hunting parties have gone over the game fields that the natives
+are familiar with white men and are not at all likely to be hostile or
+troublesome. Our _safari_ at one time went into a district where we were
+warned to expect trouble, but there was none and I think there never
+need be any if the white men are considerate and fair. If a district is
+known to be particularly troublesome, the government authorities would
+not permit a hunting party to go into it, so for that reason the hunters
+need apprehend no dangers from that source.
+
+
+Game
+
+Game is found in varying degrees of abundance in most parts of the East
+African highlands. Within two hours of Nairobi the sportsman may find
+twelve or fifteen species, while within the space of four weeks a lucky
+hunter might secure elephant, lion, rhinoceros, buffalo, eland and
+hippopotamus. It is hardly _likely_ that he would, but it is quite
+within the range of possibilities. It all depends upon luck. The hunter
+is allowed under his two hundred and fifty dollar license, about one
+hundred and ninety-five animals, comprising thirty-five species, and not
+including lion, leopard, wart-hog and hyena. There is no restriction on
+the number of these last-named species that one is allowed to shoot, but
+there is on the number that he gets the opportunity of shooting.
+
+The success of an expedition should not be measured by the number of
+trophies, but rather by the quality of them. For example, the new
+license allows twenty zebras, but no one would want to kill more than
+two unless as food for the porters. The same is true of many other
+species, and a temperate sportsman should have no desire to kill more
+than a couple of each species, say sixty or eighty head in all, unless,
+of course, he is making collections for museums or for other scientific
+purposes.
+
+The gunbearers are usually fairly good skinners and if carefully watched
+and directed can treat the heads and skins so that they may be safely
+got in to Nairobi. Here they should be overhauled carefully and packed
+in brine for shipment out of the country. The agents in Nairobi should
+be consulted about these details and will give competent instructions
+covering this phase of the work.
+
+
+GAME LAWS
+
+These are of necessity under frequent revision, but the latest available
+information allows the holder of a fifty-pound license, which lasts for
+one year from date of issue, to kill or capture the following:
+
+Buffalo (Bull), 2; [A]Rhinoceros, 2; [A]Hippopotamus, 2; [A]Eland, 1;
+Zebra (Grevey's), 2; Zebra, (Common), 20; Oryx callotis, 2; Oryx beisa,
+4; Waterbuck (of each species), 2; Sable antelope (male), 1; [A]Roan
+antelope (male), 1; [A]Greater Kudu (male), 1; Lesser Kudu, 4; Topi, 2;
+Topi (in Jubaland, Tanaland and Loita Plains), 8; Coke's Hartebeest, 20;
+[A]Neumann's Hartebeest, 2; Jackson's Hartebeest, 4; Hunter's Antelope,
+6; Thomas' Kob, 4; Bongo, 2; Impalla, 4; Sitatunga, 2; Wildebeest, 3;
+Grant's Gazelle (Typica, Notata Bright's, Robertsi), each, 3; Gerenuk,
+4; Duiker (Harvey's, Isaac's, and Blue), each, 10; Dik-dik (Kirk's,
+Guenther's, Hinde's, Cavendish's), each, 10; Oribi (Abyssinian,
+Haggard's, Kenia), each, 10; Suni (Nesotragus Moschatus), 10;
+Klipspringer, 10; Reedbuck (Ward's, Chanler's), each, 10; Gazelle
+(Thompson's, Peter's, Soemmering's), each, 10; Bushbuck (Common,
+Haywood's), each, 10; Colobi Monkeys, of each species, 6; Marabou, 4;
+Egret, of each species, 4.
+
+[Footnote A: Can not be killed in certain districts.]
+
+SPECIAL LICENSES
+
+These can be taken out for ten pounds each and entitle the holder to
+kill or capture:
+
+Elephant with tusks over thirty pounds, each, 1; Bull Giraffe in certain
+districts, 1.
+
+A second elephant is allowed on payment of a further fee of twenty
+pounds, this fee being returnable in the event of the elephant not being
+obtained.
+
+Lions and leopards are classed as vermin, and consequently no license to
+kill them is required.
+
+
+The Season for Shooting
+
+"Practically any time of the year will do for shooting in British East
+Africa, but the season of the 'big rains' from the end of January to the
+end of April, is not one to choose willingly from the point of view of
+comfort. There is also a short spell of rainy weather about October and
+November which, however, is not looked upon as an obstacle to a
+_safari_, and we may say that from May to February constitutes the
+shooting season."
+
+The foregoing is quoted from a pamphlet on East Africa game shooting. In
+our own experience the weather between September and February was
+perfectly delightful and I judge, from reading accounts of Colonel
+Roosevelt's trip, that his operations between April and December were
+never seriously hampered by bad weather. From the experiences of these
+two _safaris_, one might reasonably conclude that any time is good
+except February, March and April, the season of the "big rains."
+
+
+Heat
+
+On the Athi Plains in September, we found the heat in the middle of the
+day to be very ardent, to say the least. But with the exception of fewer
+than a dozen days in all, we never were obliged to consider this phase
+of the hunting experience as an objectionable feature. We found the cold
+of the high altitudes to be severe in the evenings and in contrast to
+it, the warm days were most welcome. Along the coast, of course, the
+heat is intense, but all of the shooting is done at altitudes exceeding
+thirty-five hundred feet and one merely pauses at the coast town long
+enough to catch his train. In September even Mombasa was delightful, but
+in January it was very hot.
+
+In conclusion, I might say that all one needs for an African hunting
+trip is sufficient time, sufficient money, and a fair degree of health.
+Also the services of a reliable outfitting firm which will furnish
+enlightenment upon all subjects not specifically included in the
+foregoing chapter of advice and information.
+
+
+
+  _With the exception of the photographs, all of which are here
+  reproduced for the first time, a great part of this material appeared
+  originally in The Chicago Tribune, and is now published in book form
+  by the courtesy of that paper._
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AFRICA***
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