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+Project Gutenberg's The Kensington District, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Kensington District
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Editor: Walter Besant
+
+Release Date: May 30, 2007 [EBook #21643]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE FASCINATION
+     OF LONDON
+
+THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT
+
+
+
+
+
+_IN THIS SERIES._
+
+Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each.
+
+
+THE STRAND DISTRICT.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+CHELSEA.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+KENSINGTON.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HOLLAND HOUSE.
+
+_Herbert Railton_]
+
+
+
+
+The Fascination of London
+
+KENSINGTON
+
+BY
+G. E. MITTON
+
+EDITED BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+
+LONDON
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+1903
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.
+
+As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."
+
+Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey should
+contain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by different
+persons, so that the history of each parish should be complete in
+itself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one in
+which he took the keenest interest. Enough has been done of this
+section to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in the
+meantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of the
+districts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to
+the local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the
+interest and the history of London lie in these street associations.
+
+The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history with
+the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.
+
+G. E. M.
+
+
+
+
+KENSINGTON
+
+
+When people speak of Kensington they generally mean a very small area
+lying north and south of the High Street; to this some might add South
+Kensington, the district bordering on the Cromwell and Brompton Roads,
+and possibly a few would remember to mention West Kensington as a
+far-away place, where there is an entrance to the Earl's Court
+Exhibition. But Kensington as a borough is both more and less than the
+above. It does not include all West Kensington, nor even the whole of
+Kensington Gardens, but it stretches up to Kensal Green on the north,
+taking in the cemetery, which is its extreme northerly limit.
+
+If we draw a somewhat wavering line from the west side of the cemetery,
+leaving outside the Roman Catholic cemetery, and continue from here to
+Uxbridge Road Station, thence to Addison Road Station, and thence again
+through West Brompton to Chelsea Station, we shall have traced roughly
+the western boundary of the borough. It covers an immense area, and it
+begins and ends in a cemetery, for at the south-western corner is the
+West London, locally known as the Brompton, Cemetery. In shape the
+borough is strikingly like a man's leg and foot in a top-boot. The
+western line already traced is the back of the leg, the Brompton
+Cemetery is the heel, the sole extends from here up Fulham Road and
+Walton Street, and ends at Hooper's Court, west of Sloane Street. This,
+it is true, makes a very much more pointed toe than is usual in a man's
+boot, for the line turns back immediately down the Brompton Road. It
+cuts across the back of Brompton Square and the Oratory, runs along
+Imperial Institute Road, and up Queen's Gate to Kensington Gore. Thence
+it goes westward to the Broad Walk, and follows it northward to the
+Bayswater Road. Thus we leave outside Kensington those essentially
+Kensington buildings the Imperial Institute and Albert Hall, and nearly
+all of Kensington Gardens. But we shall not omit an account of these
+places in our perambulation, which is guided by sense-limits rather than
+by arbitrary lines.
+
+The part left outside the borough, which is of Kensington, but not in
+it, has belonged from time immemorial to Westminster (see same series,
+_Westminster_, p. 2).
+
+If we continue the boundary-line we find it after the Bayswater Road
+very irregular, traversing Ossington Street, Chepstow Place, a bit of
+Westbourne Grove, Ledbury Road, St. Luke's Road, and then curving round
+on the south side of the canal for some distance before crossing it at
+Ladbroke Grove, and continuing in the Harrow Road to the western end of
+the cemetery from whence we started.
+
+The borough is surrounded on the west, south, and east respectively by
+Hammersmith, Chelsea, and Paddington, and the above boundaries, roughly
+given as they are, will probably be detailed enough for the purpose.
+
+The heart and core of Kensington is the district gathered around
+Kensington Square; this is the most redolent of interesting memories,
+from the days when the maids of honour lived in it to the present time,
+and in itself has furnished material for many a book. Close by in Young
+Street lived Thackeray, and the Square figures many times in his works.
+Further northward the Palace and Gardens are closely associated with the
+lives of our kings, from William III. onward. Northward above Notting
+Hill is a very poor district, poor enough to rival many an East-End
+parish. Associations cluster around Campden and Little Campden Houses,
+and the still existing Holland House, where gathered many who were
+notable for ability as well as high birth. To Campden House Queen Anne,
+then Princess, brought her sickly little son as to a country house at
+the "Gravel Pits," but the child never lived to inherit the throne. Not
+far off lived Sir Isaac Newton, the greatest philosopher the world has
+ever known, who also came to seek health in the fresh air of Kensington.
+
+The southern part of the borough is comparatively new. Within the last
+sixty years long lines of houses have sprung up, concealing beneath
+unpromising exteriors, such as only London houses can show, comfort
+enough and to spare. This is a favourite residential quarter, though we
+now consider it in, not "conveniently near," town. Snipe were shot in
+the marshes of Brompton, and nursery gardens spread themselves over the
+area now devoted to the museums and institute. It is rather interesting
+to read the summary of John Timbs, F.S.A., writing so late as 1867:
+"Kensington, a mile and a half west of Hyde Park Corner, contains the
+hamlets of Brompton, Earl's Court, the Gravel Pits, and part of Little
+Chelsea, now West Brompton, but the Royal Palace and about twenty other
+houses north of the road are in the parish of St. Margaret's,
+Westminster." He adds that Brompton has long been frequented by invalids
+on account of its genial air. Faulkner, the local historian of all
+South-West London, speaks of the "delightful fruit-gardens of Brompton
+and Earl's Court."
+
+The origin of the name Kensington is obscure. In Domesday Book it is
+called Chenesitum, and in other ancient records Kenesitune and
+Kensintune, on which Lysons comments: "Cheneesi was a proper name. A
+person of that name held the Manor of Huish in Somersetshire in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor." This is apparently entirely without
+foundation. Other writers have attempted to connect the name with
+Kings-town, with equal ill-success. The true derivation seems to be from
+the Saxon tribe of the Kensings or Kemsings, whose name also remains in
+the little village of Kemsing in Kent.
+
+
+HISTORY.
+
+From Domesday Book we learn that the Manor of Kensington had belonged to
+a certain Edward or Edwin, a thane, during the reign of Edward the
+Confessor. It was granted by William I. to Geoffrey, Bishop of
+Coutances, under whom it was held by Alberic or Aubrey de Ver or Vere.
+The Bishop died in 1093, and Aubrey then held it directly from the
+Crown.
+
+Aubrey's son Godefrid or Geoffrey, being under obligations to the Abbot
+of Abingdon, persuaded his father to grant a strip of Kensington to the
+Abbot. This was done with the consent of the next heir. The strip thus
+granted became a subordinate manor; it is described as containing "2
+hides and a virgate" of land, or about 270 acres. This estate was cut
+right out of the original manor, and formed a detached piece or island
+lying within it.
+
+The second Aubrey de Vere was made Great Chamberlain of England by King
+Henry I. This office was made hereditary. The third Aubrey was created
+Earl of Oxford by Queen Matilda, a purely honorary title, as he held no
+possessions in Oxfordshire. The third Earl, Robert, was one of the
+guardians of the Magna Charta. The fifth of the same name granted lands,
+in 1284, to one Simon Downham, chaplain, and his heirs, at a rent of one
+penny. This formed another manor in Kensington. This Robert and the
+three succeeding Earls held high commands. The ninth Earl was one of the
+favourites of Richard II., under whom he held many offices. He was made
+Knight of the Garter, Marquis of Dublin (the first Marquis created in
+England), and later on Duke of Ireland. His honours were forfeited at
+Richard's fall. However, as he died without issue, this can have been no
+great punishment. Eventually his uncle Aubrey was restored by Act of
+Parliament to the earldom, and became the tenth Earl. Kensington had,
+however, been settled on the widowed Duchess of Ireland, and at her
+death in 1411 it went to the King. By a special gift in 1420 it was
+restored to the twelfth Earl. In 1462 he was beheaded by King Edward
+IV., and his eldest son with him. The thirteenth Earl was restored to
+the family honours and estates under King Henry VII., but he was forced
+to part with "Knotting Barnes or Knotting barnes, sometimes written
+Notting or Nutting barns." This is said to have been more valuable than
+the original manor itself. It formed the third subordinate manor in
+Kensington. The thirteenth Earl was succeeded by his nephew, who died
+young. The titles went to a collateral branch, and the Manor of
+Kensington was settled on the two widowed Countesses, and later upon
+three sisters, co-heiresses of the fourteenth Earl.
+
+We have now to trace the histories of the secondary manors after their
+severance from the main estate. The Abbot's manor still survives in the
+name of St. Mary Abbots Church. About 1260 it was discovered that Aubrey
+de Vere had not obtained the consent of the Archbishop of Canterbury or
+the Bishop of London before granting the manor to the Abbot. Thereupon a
+great dispute arose as to the Abbot's rights over the land in question,
+and it was finally decided that the Abbot was to retain half the great
+tithes, but that the vicarage was to be in the gift of the Bishop of
+London. The Abbot's manor was leased to William Walwyn in the beginning
+of the sixteenth century. It afterwards was held by the Grenvilles, who
+had obtained the reversion. In 1564 the tithes and demesne lands were
+separated from the manor and rectory, which were still held by the
+Grenvilles. The tithes passed through the hands of many people in
+succession, as did also the manor. In 1595 one Robert Horseman was the
+lessee under the Crown. The Queen sold the estate to Walter (afterwards
+Sir Walter) Cope, and a special agreement was made by which Robert
+Horseman still retained his right to live in the manor house. This is
+important, as it led to the foundation of Holland House by Cope, who had
+no suitable residence as lord of the manor.
+
+West Town, created out of lands known as the Groves, was granted by the
+fifth Earl, as we have seen, to his chaplain Simon Downham. This grant
+is described by Mr. Loftie thus: "It appears to have been that piece of
+land which was intercepted between the Abbot's manor and the western
+border of the parish, and would answer to Addison Road and the land on
+either side of it." Robins, in his "History of Paddington," mentions an
+inquisition taken in 1481, in which "The Groves, formerly only three
+fields, had extended themselves out of Kensington into Brompton,
+Chelsea, Tybourn, and Westbourne."
+
+The manor passed later to William Essex. It was bought from him in 1570
+by the Marquis of Winchester, Lord High Treasurer of England. He sold
+it to William Dodington, who resold it to Christopher Barker, printer to
+Queen Elizabeth, who was responsible for the "Breeches" Bible. It was
+bought from him by Walter Cope for £1,300.
+
+Knotting Barnes was sold by the thirteenth Earl, whose fortunes had been
+impoverished by adhesion to the House of Lancaster. It was bought by Sir
+Reginald Bray, who sold it to the Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond,
+mother of King Henry VII. This manor seems to have included lands lying
+without the precincts of Kensington, for in an indenture entered into by
+the Lady and the Abbot of Westminster in regard to the disposal of her
+property we find mentioned "lands and tenements in Willesden, Padyngton,
+Westburn, and Kensington, in the countie of Midd., which maners, lands,
+and tenements the said Princes late purchased of Sir Reynolds Bray
+knight." The Countess left the greater part of her property to the Abbey
+at Westminster, and part to the two Universities at Oxford and
+Cambridge. On the spoliation of the monasteries, King Henry VIII. became
+possessed of the Westminster property; he took up the lease, granting
+the lessee, Robert White, other lands in exchange, and added it to the
+hunting-ground he purposed forming on the north and west of London. At
+his death King Edward VI. inherited it, and leased it to Sir William
+Paulet. In 1587 it was held by Lord Burghley. In 1599 it was sold to
+Walter Cope.
+
+Earl's Court or Kensington Manor we traced to the three sisters of the
+last Earl. One of these died childless, the other two married
+respectively John Nevill, Lord Latimer; and Sir Anthony Wingfield.
+Family arrangements were made to prevent the division of the estate,
+which passed to Lucy Nevill, Lord Latimer's third daughter. She married
+Sir W. Cornwallis, and left one daughter, Anne, who married Archibald,
+Earl of Argyll, who joined with her in selling the manor to Sir Walter
+Cope in 1609. Sir Walter Cope had thus held at one time or another the
+whole of Kensington. He now possessed Earl's Court, West Town, and
+Abbot's Manor, having sold Notting Barns some time before. His daughter
+and heiress married Sir Henry Rich, younger son of the first Earl of
+Warwick. Further details are given in the account of Holland House (p.
+76).
+
+PERAMBULATION.--We will begin at the extreme easterly point of the
+borough, the toe of the boot which the general outline resembles. We are
+here in Knightsbridge. The derivation of this word has been much
+disputed. Many old writers, including Faulkner, have identified it with
+Kingsbridge--that is to say, the bridge over the Westbourne in the
+King's high-road. The Westbourne formed the boundary of Chelsea, and
+flowed across the road opposite Albert Gate. The real King's bridge,
+however, was not here, but further eastward over the Tyburn, and as far
+back as Henry I.'s reign it is referred to as Cnightebriga. Another
+derivation for Knightsbridge is therefore necessary. The old topographer
+Norden writes: "Kingsbridge, commonly called Stone bridge, near Hyde
+Park Corner, where I wish no true man to walk too late without good
+guard, as did Sir H. Knyvett, Kt., who valiantly defended himself, being
+assaulted, and slew the master-thief with his own hands." This, of
+course, has reference to the more westerly bridge mentioned above, but
+it seems to have served as a suggestion to later topographers, who have
+founded upon it the tradition that two knights on their way to Fulham to
+be blessed by the Bishop of London quarrelled and fought at the
+Westbourne Bridge, and killed each other, and hence gave rise to the
+name. This story may be dismissed as entirely baseless; the real
+explanation is much less romantic. The word is probably connected with
+the Manor of Neyt, which was adjacent to Westminster, and as
+pronunciation rather than orthography was relied upon in early days,
+this seems much the most likely explanation. Lysons says: "Adjoining to
+Knightsbridge were two other ancient manors called Neyt and Hyde." We
+still have the Hyde in Hyde Park, and Neyt is thus identified with
+Knightsbridge.
+
+Until the middle of the nineteenth century Knightsbridge was an outlying
+hamlet. People started from Hyde Park Corner in bands for mutual
+protection at regular intervals, and a bell was rung to warn pedestrians
+when the party was about to start. In 1778, when Lady Elliot, after the
+death of her husband, Sir Gilbert, came to Knightsbridge for fresh air,
+she found it as "quiet as Teviotdale." About forty years before this the
+Bristol mail was robbed by a man on foot near Knightsbridge. The place
+has also been the scene of many riots. In 1556, at the time of Wyatt's
+insurrection, the rebel and his followers arrived at the hamlet at
+nightfall, and stayed there all night before advancing on London. As
+already explained, the Borough of Kensington does not include
+Knightsbridge, but only touches it, and the part we are now in belongs
+to Westminster.
+
+The Albert Gate leading into the park was erected in 1844-46, and was,
+of course, called after Prince Albert. The stags on the piers were
+modelled after prints by Bartolozzi, and were first set up at the
+Ranger's Lodge in the Green Park. Part of the foundations of the old
+bridge outside were unearthed at the building of the gate, and, besides
+this bridge, there was another within the park. The French Embassy,
+recently enlarged, stands on the east side of the gate--the house
+formerly belonged to Mr. Hudson, the "railway king"--and to the west are
+several large buildings, a bank, Hyde Park Court, etc., succeeded by a
+row of houses. Here originally stood a famous old tavern, the Fox and
+Bull, said to have been founded in the time of Queen Elizabeth; if so,
+it must have retained its popularity uncommonly long, for it was noted
+for its gay company in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. It
+is referred to in the _Tatler_ (No. 259), and was visited by Sir Joshua
+Reynolds and George Morland, the former of whom painted the sign, which
+hung until 1807. It is said that the Elizabethan house had wonderfully
+carved ceilings and immense fire-dogs, still in use in 1799. The inn was
+later the receiving office of the Royal Humane Society, and to it was
+brought the body of Shelley's wife after she had drowned herself in the
+Serpentine.
+
+In the open space opposite is an equestrian statue of Hugh Rose--Lord
+Strathnairn--by Onslow Ford, R.A. Close by is a little triangular strip
+of green, which goes by the dignified name of Knightsbridge Green. It
+has a dismal reminiscence, having been a burial-pit for those who died
+of the plague. The last maypole was on the green in 1800, and the
+pound-house remained until 1835.
+
+The entrance to Tattersall's overlooks the green. This famous horse-mart
+was founded by Richard Tattersall, who had been stud-groom to the last
+Duke of Kingston. He started a horse market in 1766 at Hyde Park Corner,
+and his son carried it on after him. Rooms were fitted up at the market
+for the use of the Jockey Club, which held its meetings there for many
+years. Charles James Fox was one of the most regular patrons of
+Tattersall's sales. The establishment was moved to its present position
+in 1864.
+
+The cavalry barracks on the north side of Knightsbridge boast of having
+the largest amount of cubic feet of air per horse of any stables in
+London.
+
+An old inn called Half-way House stood some distance beyond the barracks
+in the middle of the roadway until well on into the nineteenth century,
+and proved a great impediment to traffic. On the south side of the road,
+eastward of Rutland Gate, is Kent House, which recalls by its name the
+fact that the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, once lived here.
+Not far off is Princes Skating Club, one of the most popular and
+expensive of its kind in London. Rutland Gate takes its name from a
+mansion of the Dukes of Rutland, which stood on the same site. The
+neighbourhood is a good residential one, and the houses bordering the
+roads have the advantage of looking out over the Gardens. There is
+nothing else requiring comment until we reach the Albert Hall, so,
+leaving this part for a time, we return to the Brompton Road. This road
+was known up to 1856 as the Fulham Road, though a long row of houses on
+the north side had been called Brompton Row much earlier.
+
+Brompton signifies Broom Town, carrying suggestions of a wide and heathy
+common. Brompton Square, a very quiet little place, a cul-de-sac, which
+has also the great recommendation that no "street music" is allowed
+within it, can boast of having had some distinguished residents. At No.
+22, George Colman, junior, the dramatist, a witty and genial talker,
+whose society was much sought after, lived for the ten years previous to
+his death in 1836. The same house was in 1860 taken by Shirley Brooks,
+editor of _Punch_. The list of former residents also includes the names
+of John Liston, comedian, No. 40, and Frederick Yates, the actor, No.
+57.
+
+The associations of all of this district have been preserved by Crofton
+Croker in his "Walk from London to Fulham," but his work suffers from
+being too minute; names which are now as dead as their owners are
+recorded, and the most trivial points noted. Opposite Brompton Square
+there was once a street called Michael's Grove, after its builder,
+Michael Novosielski, architect of the Royal Italian Opera House. In
+1835 Douglas Jerrold, critic and dramatist, lived here, and whilst here
+was visited by Dickens. Ovington Square covers the ground where once
+stood Brompton Grove, where several well-known people had houses; among
+them was the editor (William Jerdan) of the _Literary Gazette_, who was
+visited by many literary men, and who held those informal conversation
+parties, so popular in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries,
+which must have been very delightful. Tom Hood was among the guests on
+many occasions. Before being Brompton Grove, this part of the district
+had been known as Flounder's Field, but why, tradition does not say.
+
+The next opening on the north side is an avenue of young lime-trees
+leading to Holy Trinity Church, the parish church of Brompton. It was
+opened in 1829, and the exterior is as devoid of beauty as the date
+would lead one to suppose. There are about 1,800 seats, and 700 are
+free. The burial-ground behind the church is about 4½ acres in
+extent, and was consecrated at the same time as the church. Croker
+mentions that it was once a flower-garden. Northward are Ennismore
+Gardens, named after the secondary title of the Earl of Listowel, who
+lives in Kingston House. The house recalls the notorious Duchess of
+Kingston, who occupied it for some time. The Duchess, who began life as
+Elizabeth Chudleigh, must have had strong personal attractions. She was
+appointed maid of honour to Augusta, Princess of Wales, and after
+several love-affairs was married secretly to the Hon. Augustus John
+Hervey, brother of the Earl of Bristol. She continued to be a maid of
+honour after this event, which remained a profound secret. Her husband
+was a lieutenant in the navy, and on his return from his long absences
+the couple quarrelled violently. It was not, however, until sixteen
+years later that Mrs. Hervey began a connection with the Duke of
+Kingston, which ended in a form of marriage. It was then that she
+assumed the title, and caused Kingston House to be built for her
+residence; fifteen years later her real husband succeeded to the title
+of Earl of Bristol, and she was brought up to answer to the charge of
+bigamy, on which she was proved guilty, but with extenuating
+circumstances, and she seems to have got off scot-free. She afterwards
+went abroad, and died in Paris in 1788, aged sixty-eight, after a life
+of gaiety and dissipation. From the very beginning her behaviour seems
+to have been scandalous, and she richly merited the epithet always
+prefixed to her name. Sir George Warren and Lord Stair subsequently
+occupied the house, and later the Marquis Wellesley, elder brother of
+the famous Duke of Wellington. Intermediately it was occupied by the
+Listowel family, to whom the freehold belongs.
+
+All Saints' Church in Ennismore Gardens was built by Vulliamy, and is in
+rather a striking Lombardian style, refreshing after the meaningless
+"Gothic" of so many parish churches.
+
+The Oratory of St. Philip Neri, near Brompton Church, is surmounted by a
+great dome, on the summit of which is a golden cross. It is the
+successor of a temporary oratory opened in 1854, and the present church
+was opened thirty years later by Cardinal Manning. The oratory is built
+of white stone, and the entrance is under a great portico. The style
+followed throughout is that of the Renaissance, and all the fittings and
+furniture are costly and beautifully finished, so that the whole
+interior has an appearance of richness and elegance. A nave of immense
+height and 51 feet in width is supported by pillars of Devonshire
+marble, and there are many well-furnished chapels in the side aisles.
+The floor of the sanctuary is of inlaid wood, and the stalls are after a
+Renaissance Viennese model, and are inlaid with ivory; both of these
+fittings were the gift of Anne, Duchess of Argyll. The central picture
+is by Father Philpin de Rivière, of the London Oratory, and it is
+surmounted by onyx panels in gilt frames. The two angels on each side of
+a cartouche are of Italian workmanship, and were given by the late Sir
+Edgar Boehm. The oratory is famous for its music, and the crowds that
+gather here are by no means entirely of the Roman Catholic persuasion.
+Near the church-house is a statue of Cardinal Newman.
+
+Not far westward the new buildings of the South Kensington Museum are
+rapidly rising. The laying of their foundation-stone was one of the last
+public acts of Queen Victoria. Until these buildings were begun there
+was a picturesque old house standing within the enclosure marked out for
+their site, and some people imagined this was Cromwell House, which gave
+its name to so many streets in the neighbourhood; this was, however, a
+mistake. Cromwell House was further westward, near where the present
+Queen's Gate is, and the site is now covered by the gardens of the
+Natural History Museum.
+
+All that great space lying between Queen's Gate and Exhibition Road, and
+bounded north and south by Kensington Gore and the Cromwell Road, has
+seen many changes. At first it was Brompton Park, a splendid estate,
+which for some time belonged to the Percevals, ancestors of the Earls of
+Egmont. A large part of it was cut off in 1675 to form a nursery garden,
+the first of its kind in England, which naturally attracted much
+attention, and formed a good strolling-ground for the idlers who came
+out from town. Evelyn mentions this garden in his diary at some length,
+and evidently admired it very much. It was succeeded by the gardens of
+the Horticultural Society, and the Imperial Institute now stands on the
+site. The Great Exhibition of 1851 (see p. 66) was followed by another
+in 1862, which was not nearly so successful, and this was held on the
+ground now occupied by the Natural History Museum; it in turn was
+followed by smaller exhibitions held in the Horticultural Society's
+grounds.
+
+In an old map we see Hale or Cromwell House standing, as above
+indicated, about the western end of the Museum gardens. Lysons gives
+little credence to the story of its having been the residence of the
+great Protector. He says that during Cromwell's time, and for many years
+afterwards, it was the residence of the Methwold family, and adds: "If
+there were any grounds for the tradition, it may be that Henry Cromwell
+occupied it before he went out to Ireland the second time." This seems a
+likely solution, for it is improbable that a name should have impressed
+itself so persistently upon a district without some connection, and as
+Henry Cromwell was married in Kensington parish church, there is nothing
+improbable in the fact of his having lived in the parish. Faulkner
+follows Lysons, and adds a detailed description of the house. He says:
+
+    "Over the mantelpiece there is a recess formed by the curve of the
+    chimney, in which it is said that the Protector used to conceal
+    himself when he visited the house, but why his Highness chose this
+    place for concealment the tradition has not condescended to inform
+    us."
+
+In Faulkner's time the Earl of Harrington, who had come into possession
+of the park estate by his marriage with its heiress, owned Cromwell
+House; his name is preserved in Harrington Road close by. When the Manor
+of Earl's Court was sold to Sir Walter Cope in 1609, Hale House, as it
+was then called, and the 30 acres belonging to it, had been especially
+excepted. In the eighteenth century the place was turned into a
+tea-garden, and was well patronized, but never attained the celebrity of
+Vauxhall or Ranelagh, and later was eclipsed altogether by Florida
+Gardens further westward (see p. 32). The house was taken down in 1853.
+
+The Natural History Museum is a branch of the British Museum, and,
+though commonly called the South Kensington Museum, has no claim at all
+to that title. The architect was A. Waterhouse, and the building rather
+suggests a child's erection from a box of many coloured bricks. The
+material is yellow terra-cotta with gray bands, and the ground-plan is
+simple enough, consisting of a central hall and long straight galleries
+running from it east and west. The mineralogical, botanical,
+zoological, and geological collections are to be found here in
+conformity with a resolution passed by the trustees of the British
+Museum in 1860, though the building was not finished until twenty years
+later. The collections are most popular, especially that of birds and
+their nests in their natural surroundings; and as the Museum is open
+free, it is well patronized, especially on wet Sunday afternoons. The
+South Kensington Museum, that part of it already standing on the east
+side of Exhibition Road, is the outcome of the Great Exhibition, and
+began with a collection at Marlborough House. The first erection was a
+hideous temporary structure of iron, which speedily became known as the
+"Brompton Boilers," and this was handed over to the Science and Art
+Department. In 1868 this building was taken down, and some of the
+materials were used for the branch museum at Bethnal Green.
+
+The buildings have now spread and are spreading over so much ground that
+it is a matter of difficulty to enumerate them all. The elaborate
+terra-cotta building facing Exhibition Road is the Royal College of
+Science, under the control of the Board of Education, for the Museum is
+quite as much for purposes of technical education as for mere
+sightseeing. Behind this lie the older parts of the Museum, galleries,
+etc., which are so much hidden away that it is difficult to get a
+glimpse of them at all. Across the road, behind the Natural History
+Museum, are the Southern Galleries, containing various models of
+machinery actually working; northward of this, more red brick and
+scaffolding proclaim an extension, which will face the Imperial
+Institute Road, and parts have even run across the roads in both
+directions north and westward. The whole is known officially as the
+Victoria and Albert Museum, but generally goes by the name of the South
+Kensington Museum. The galleries and library are well worth a visit, and
+official catalogues can be had at the entrance.
+
+From an architectural point of view, the Imperial Institute is much more
+satisfactory than either of the above. It is of gray stone, with a high
+tower called the Queen's Tower, rising to a height of 280 feet; in this
+is a peal of bells, ten in number, called after members of the royal
+family, and presented by an Australian lady. The Institute was the
+national memorial for Queen Victoria's Jubilee, and was designed to
+embody the colonial or Imperial idea by the collection of the native
+products of the various colonies, but it has not been nearly so
+successful as its fine idea entitled it to be. It was also formed into a
+club for Fellows on a payment of a small subscription, but was never
+very warmly supported. It is now partly converted to other uses. The
+London University occupies the main entrance, great hall, central block,
+and east wings (except the basement). There are located here the Senate
+and Council rooms, Vice-Chancellor's rooms, Board-rooms, convocation
+halls and offices, besides the rooms of the Principal, Registrars, and
+other University officers. At the Institute are also the physiological
+theatre and laboratories for special advanced lectures and research. The
+rest of the building is now the property of the Board of Trade, under
+whom the real Imperial Institute occupies the west wing and certain
+other parts of the building.
+
+The Horticultural Gardens, which the Imperial Institute superseded, were
+taken by the Society in 1861, in addition to its then existing gardens
+at Chiswick. They were laid out in a very artificial and formal style,
+and were mocked in a contemporary article in the _Quarterly Review_: "So
+the brave old trees which skirted the paddock of Gore House were felled,
+little ramps were raised, and little slopes sliced off with a fiddling
+nicety of touch which would have delighted the imperial grandeur of the
+summer palace, and the tiny declivities thus manufactured were tortured
+into curvilinear patterns, where sea-sand, chopped coal, and powdered
+bricks atoned for the absence of flower or shrub." Every vestige of this
+has, of course, now vanished, and a new road has been driven past the
+front of the Institute.
+
+The Albert Hall was opened by Queen Victoria in 1871, and, like the
+other buildings already mentioned, is closely associated with the
+earlier half of her reign. The idea was due to Prince Albert, who wished
+to have a large hall for musical and oratorical performances. It is in
+the form of a gigantic ellipse covered by a dome, and the external walls
+are decorated by a frieze. The effect is hardly commendable, and the
+whole has been compared to a huge bandbox. However, it answers the
+purpose for which it was designed, having good acoustic properties, and
+its concerts, especially the cheap ones on Sunday afternoons, are always
+well attended. The organ is worked by steam, and is one of the largest
+in the world, having close on 9,000 pipes. The hall stands on the site
+of Gore House, in its time a rendezvous for all the men and women of
+intellect and brilliancy in England. It was occupied by Wilberforce from
+1808 to 1821. He came to it after his illness at Clapham, which had made
+him feel the necessity of moving nearer to London, that he might
+discharge his Parliamentary duties more easily. His Bill for the
+Abolition of Slavery had become law shortly before, and he was at the
+time a popular idol. His house was thronged with visitors, among whom
+were his associates, Clarkson, Zachary Macaulay, and Romilly. What
+charmed him most in his new residence was the garden "full of lilacs,
+laburnum, nightingales, and swallows." He writes:
+
+    "We are just one mile from the turnpike at Hyde Park Corner, having
+    about 3 acres of pleasure-ground around our house, or rather behind
+    it, and several old trees, walnut and mulberry, of thick foliage. I
+    can sit and read under their shade with as much admiration of the
+    beauties of nature as if I were 200 miles from the great city."
+
+In 1836 the clever and popular Lady Blessington came to Gore House, and
+remained there just so long as Wilberforce had done--namely, thirteen
+years. The house is thus described in "The Gorgeous Lady Blessington"
+(Mr. Molloy):
+
+    "Lying back from the road, from which it was separated by high walls
+    and great gates, it was approached by a courtyard that led to a
+    spacious vestibule. The rooms were large and lofty, the hall wide
+    and stately, but the chiefest attraction of all were the beautiful
+    gardens stretching out at the back, with their wide terraces,
+    flower-beds, extensive lawns, and fine old trees."
+
+Kensington Gore was then considered to be in the country, and spoken of
+as a mile from London. Count D'Orsay, who had married Lady Blessington's
+stepdaughter, rather in compliance with her father's wishes than his own
+inclination, spent much of his time with his mother-in-law, and at her
+receptions all the literary talent of the age was gathered
+together--Bulwer Lytton, Disraeli, and Landor were frequent visitors,
+and Prince Louis Napoleon made his way to Gore House when he escaped
+from prison. Lady Blessington died in 1849. The house was used as a
+restaurant during the 1851 Exhibition, and afterwards bought with the
+estate by the Commissioners.
+
+The name "gore" generally means a wedge-shaped insertion, and, if we
+take it as being between the Kensington Gardens and Brompton and
+Cromwell Roads, might be applicable here, but the explanation is
+far-fetched. Leigh Hunt reminds us that the same word "gore" was
+previously used for mud or dirt, and as the Kensington Road at this part
+was formerly notorious for its mud, this may be the meaning of the name,
+but there can be no certainty. Lowther Lodge, a picturesque red-brick
+house, stands back behind a high wall; it was designed by Norman Shaw,
+R.A. In the row of houses eastward of it facing the road, No. 2 was once
+the residence of Wilkes, who at that time had also a house in Grosvenor
+Square and another in the Isle of Wight. Croker says that the actor
+Charles Mathews was once, with his wife, Madame Vestris, in Gore Lodge,
+Brompton. He was certainly a friend of the Blessingtons, and stayed
+abroad with them in Naples for a year, and may have been attracted to
+their neighbourhood at the Gore.
+
+Behind the Albert Hall are various buildings, such as Alexandra House
+for ladies studying art and music, also large mansions and
+_maisonnettes_ recently built. The Royal College of Music, successor of
+the old College, which stood west of the Albert Hall, is in Prince
+Consort Road. It was designed by Sir Arthur Blomfield, and opened in
+1894. The cost was defrayed by Mr. Samson Fox, and in the building is a
+curious collection of old musical instruments known as the Donaldson
+Museum and open free daily. In the same road a prettily designed church,
+to be called Holy Trinity, Kensington Gore, is rapidly rising. In the
+northern part of Exhibition Road is the Technical Institute of the City
+and Guilds in a large red and white building, and just south of it the
+Royal School of Art Needlework for Ladies, founded by Princess
+Christian.
+
+Queen's Gate is very wide; in the southern part stands St. Augustine's
+Church, opened for service in 1871, though the chancel was not completed
+until five years later. The architect was Mr. Butterfield, and the
+church is of brick of different colours, with a bell gable at the west
+end. In Cromwell Place, near the underground station, Sir John Everett
+Millais lived in No. 7; the fact is recorded on a tablet. Harrington
+Road was formerly Cromwell Lane, and there is extant a letter of Leigh
+Hunt's dated from this address in 1830. Pelham Crescent, behind the
+station, formerly looked out upon tea-gardens. Guizot, the notable
+French Minister, came to live here after the fall of Louis Philippe. He
+was in No. 21, and Charles Mathews, the actor, lived for a time in No.
+25. The curves of the old Brompton Road suggest that it was a lane at
+one time, curving to avoid the fields or different properties on either
+side.
+
+Onslow Square stands upon the site of a large lunatic asylum. In it is
+St. Paul's Church, built in 1860, and well known for its evangelical
+services. There is nothing remarkable in its architecture save that the
+chancel is at the west end. The pulpit is of carved stone with inlaid
+slabs of American onyx. Marochetti, an Italian sculptor, who is
+responsible for many of the statues in London, including that of Prince
+Albert on the Memorial, lived at No. 34 in the square in 1860. But its
+proudest association is that Thackeray came to the house then No. 36,
+from Young Street, in 1853. "The Newcomes" was at that time appearing in
+parts, and continued to run until 1855, so that some of it was probably
+written here. He published also while here "The Rose and the Ring," the
+outcome of a visit to Rome with his daughters, and after "The Newcomes"
+was completed he visited America for a second time on a tour of
+lectures, subsequently embodied in a book, "The Four Georges." By his
+move from Young Street he was nearer to his friends the Carlyles in
+Chelsea, a fact doubtless much appreciated on both sides. He contested
+Oxford in 1857, and in the following year began the publication of "The
+Virginians," which was doubtless inspired by his American experiences.
+In 1860 he was made editor of the _Cornhill_, from which his income came
+to something like £4,000 a year, and on the strength of this accession
+of fortune he began to build a house in Palace Green, to which he moved
+when it was complete (p. 53).
+
+It has been remarked that this is rather a dismal neighbourhood, with
+the large hospitals for Cancer and Consumption facing each other across
+the Fulham Road, and the Women's Hospital quite close at hand. It is
+with the Consumption Hospital alone we have to do here, as the others
+are in Chelsea. This hospital stands on part of the ground which
+belonged to a famous botanical garden owned by William Curtis at the end
+of the eighteenth century. The building is of red brick, faced with
+white stone, and it is on a piece of ground about 3 acres in extent,
+lined by small trees, under which are seats for the wan-faced patients.
+The ground-plan of the building resembles the letter H, and the system
+adopted inside is that of galleries used as day-rooms and filled with
+chairs and couches. From these the bedrooms open off. The galleries
+make a superior sort of ward, and are bright, with large windows, and
+polished floors. There is a chapel attached to the hospital, which was
+chiefly presented by the late Sir Henry Foulis, after whom one of the
+galleries is named, and who is also recalled in the name of a
+neighbouring terrace. The west wing of the hospital was added in 1852,
+and towards it Jenny Lind, who was resident in Brompton, presented
+£1,600, the proceeds of a concert for the cause. There is also an
+extension building across the road. Here there is a compressed air-bath,
+in which an enormous pressure of air can be put upon the patient, to the
+relief of his lungs. This item, rendered expensive by its massive
+structure and iron bolts and bars, cost £1,000, and is one of the only
+two of the kind in existence, the other being in Paris. A Miss Read
+bequeathed to the hospital the sum of £100,000, and in memory of her a
+slab beneath a central window is inscribed: "In Memoriam Cordelia Read,
+1879." It was due to her beneficence that the extension building was
+added.
+
+In Cranley Gardens, which takes its name from the secondary title of the
+Earl of Onslow, is St. Peter's Church, founded in 1866. Cranley Gardens
+run into Gloucester Road, which formerly bore the much less aristocratic
+title of Hogmore Lane.
+
+Just above the place where the Cromwell Road cuts Gloucester Road, about
+the site of the National Provincial Branch Bank, once stood a rather
+important house. It had been the Florida Tea-gardens, and having gained
+a bad reputation was closed, and the place sold to Sophia, Duchess of
+Gloucester, who built there a house on her own account, and called it
+Orford Lodge, in honour of her own family, the Walpoles. She had married
+privately William Henry, Duke of Gloucester, brother of George III. The
+marriage, which took place in 1766, was not revealed to King George II.
+until six years had passed, and when it was the Duke and Duchess fell
+under the displeasure of His Majesty. They travelled abroad for some
+time, but in 1780 were reinstated in royal favour. The Duke died in
+1805, and the Duchess two years later. After her death her daughter,
+Princess Sophia, sold the house to the great statesman George Canning,
+who renamed it Gloucester Lodge, and lived in it until his death
+eighteen years later. It was to this house he was brought after his duel
+with Lord Castlereagh, when he was badly wounded in the thigh. Crabbe,
+the poet, visited him at Gloucester Lodge, and records the fact in his
+journal, commenting on the gardens, and remarking that the place was
+much secluded. Canning also received here the unhappy Queen Caroline,
+whose cause he had warmly espoused. The house was pulled down about the
+middle of last century, but its memory is kept alive in Gloucester Road.
+
+Thistle Grove Lane is one of those quaint survivals which enable us to
+reconstruct the past topographically, in the same way as the silent
+letters in a word, apparently meaningless, enable us to reconstruct the
+philological past. It is no longer a lane, but a narrow passage, and
+about midway down is crossed by a little street called Priory Grove.
+Faulkner makes mention of Friars' Grove in this position, and the two
+names are probably identical. Brompton Heath lay east of this lane, and
+westward was Little Chelsea, a small hamlet in fields, situated by
+itself, quite detached from London, separated from it by the dreary
+heath, that no man might cross with impunity after dark.
+
+The Boltons is an oval piece of ground with St. Mary's Church in the
+middle. The church was opened in 1851, and the interior is surprisingly
+small in comparison with the exterior. It was fully restored about
+twenty years after it had been built. The land had been for many years
+the property of the Bolton family, whose name impressed itself on the
+place.
+
+Returning to the Fulham Road, and continuing westward, we pass the site
+of an old manor-house, afterwards used as an orphanage; near it was an
+additional building of the St. George's Union, which is opposite. There
+is a tradition that Boyle, the philosopher, once occupied this
+additional house, and was here visited by Locke. The present Union
+stands on the site of Shaftesbury House, built about 1635, and bought by
+the third Earl of Shaftesbury in 1699. Addison, who was a great friend
+of the Earl's, often stayed with him in Shaftesbury House.
+
+Redcliffe Gardens was formerly called Walnut-Tree Walk, another rural
+reminiscence. At the eastern corner was Burleigh House, and an entry in
+the Kensington registers, May 15, 1674, tells of the birth of "John
+Cecill, son and heir of John, Lord Burleigh," in the parish. There is no
+direct evidence to show that Lord Burleigh was then living in this
+house, but the probability is that he was. To the east of this house
+again was a row of others, with large gardens at the back; one was
+Lochee's well-known military academy, and another, Heckfield Lodge, was
+taken by the brothers of the Priory attached to the Roman Catholic
+church, Our Lady of Seven Dolours, which faces the street. The greater
+part of this church was built in 1876, but a very fine rectangular porch
+with figures of saints in the niches, and a narthex in the same style,
+were added later. The square tower with corner pinnacles is a
+conspicuous object in the Fulham Road.
+
+Among other important persons who lived at Little Chelsea in or about
+Fulham Road were Sir Bartholomew Shower, a well-known lawyer, in 1693;
+the Bishop of Gloucester (Edward Fowler), 1709; the Bishop of Chester
+(Sir William Dawes), who afterwards became Archbishop of York; and Sir
+Edward Ward, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, in 1697. It is odd to read of
+a highway murder occurring near Little Chelsea in 1765. The barbarity of
+the time demanded that the murderers should be executed on the spot
+where their crime was committed, so that the two men implicated were
+hanged, the one at the end of Redcliffe Gardens, and the other near
+Stamford Bridge, Chelsea Station. These men were Chelsea pensioners, and
+must have been active for their years to make such an attempt. The
+gibbet stood at the end of the present Redcliffe Gardens for very many
+years.
+
+Ifield Road was once Honey Lane. To the west are the entrance gates of
+the cemetery, which is about 800 yards in extreme length by 300 in the
+broadest part. The graves are thickly clustered together at the southern
+end, with hardly two inches between the stones, which are of every
+variety. The cemetery was opened for burial in June, 1840. Sir Roderick
+Murchison, the geologist, is among those who lie here. In the centre of
+the southern part of the cemetery is a chapel; two colonnades and a
+central building stand over the catacombs, which are not now used. At
+the northern end is a Dissenters' chapel. Having thus come to the
+extreme limits of the district, we turn to the neighbourhood of Earl's
+Court.
+
+Earl's Court can show good cause why it should hold both its names, for
+here the lords of the manor, the Earls of Oxford, held their courts. The
+earlier maps of Kensington are all of the nineteenth century. Before
+that time the old topographers doubtless thought there was nothing out
+of which to make a map, for except by the sides of the high-road, and in
+the detached villages of Brompton, Earl's Court, and Little Chelsea,
+there were only fields. Faulkner's 1820 map is very slight and sketchy.
+He says: "In speaking of this part, proceeding down Earl's Court Lane
+[Road], we arrive at the village of Earl's Court." The 1837 Survey shows
+a considerable increase in the number of houses, though Earl's Court is
+still a village, connected with Kensington by a lane. Daw's map of 1846
+for some reason shows fewer houses, but his 1858 map gives a decided
+increase.
+
+Near where the underground station now is stood the old court-house of
+Earl's Court. From 1789 to 1875 another building superseded it, but the
+older house was standing until 1878. There was a medicinal spring at
+Earl's Court in the beginning of the nineteenth century. Beside these
+two facts, there is very little that is interesting to note. John
+Hunter, the celebrated anatomist, founder of the Hunterian Museum, lived
+here in a house he had built for himself. He had a passion for animals,
+particularly strange beasts, and gathered an odd collection round him,
+somewhat to the dismay of his neighbours.
+
+The popular Earl's Court Exhibition is partly in Kensington and partly
+in Fulham; it is the largest exhibition open in London, and is
+patronized as much because it is one of the few places to which the
+Londoner can go to sit out of doors and hear a band after dinner, as for
+its more varied entertainments.
+
+One of the comparatively old houses of the neighbourhood of Earl's
+Court, that has only recently been demolished, was Coleherne Court, at
+the corner of Redcliffe Gardens and the Brompton Road. It is now
+replaced by residential flats. This was possibly the same house as that
+mentioned by Bowack (1705): "The Hon. Col. Grey has a fine seat at
+Earl's Court; it is but lately built, after the modern manner, and
+standing upon a plain, where nothing can intercept the sight, looks very
+stately at a distance. The gardens are very good." The house was later
+occupied by the widow of General Ponsonby, who fell in the Battle of
+Waterloo. Its companion, Hereford House, further eastward, was used as
+the headquarters of a cycling club before its demolition.
+
+The rest of the district eastward to Gloucester Road has no old
+association. St. Jude's Church, in Courtfield Gardens, was built in
+1870. The reredos is of red-stained alabaster, coloured marble, and
+mosaics by Salviati. St. Stephen's, in Gloucester Road, is a smaller
+church, founded in 1866. Beyond it Gloucester Road runs into Victoria
+Road, once Love Lane. General Gordon was at No. 8, Victoria Grove, in
+1881. Returning again to Earl's Court Road, we see St. Stephen's,
+another of the numerous modern churches in which the district abounds;
+it was built partly at the expense of the Rev. D. Claxton, and was
+opened in 1858. In Warwick Gardens, westward, is St. Mathias, which
+rivals St. Cuthbert's, in Philbeach Gardens, in the ritualism of its
+services. Both churches are very highly decorated. In St. Cuthbert's the
+interior is of great height, and the walls ornamentally worked in stone;
+there is a handsome oak screen, and a very fine statue of the Virgin and
+Child by Sir Edgar Boehm in the Lady Chapel; in both churches the seats
+are all free.
+
+Edwardes Square, with its houses on the north side bordering Kensington
+Road, is peculiarly attractive, with a large garden in the centre, and
+an old-world air about its houses, which are mostly small. Leigh Hunt
+says that it was (traditionally) built by a Frenchman at the time of the
+threatened French invasion, and that so confident was this good patriot
+of the issue of the war that he built the square, with its large garden
+and small houses, to suit the promenading tastes and poorly-furnished
+pockets of Napoleon's officers. The name was taken from the family name
+of Lord Kensington.
+
+Mrs. Inchbald stayed as a boarder at No. 4 in the square when she was
+sixty-five. She seems to have chosen the life for the sake of company
+rather than by reason of lack of means, for she was not badly off,
+having been always extraordinarily well paid for her work. She is
+described as having been above the middle height, of a freckled
+complexion, and with sandy hair, but nevertheless good-looking. Leigh
+Hunt himself was at No. 32 for some years before 1853, when he removed
+to Hammersmith. He mentions, on hearsay, that Coleridge once stayed in
+the square, but this was probably only on the occasion of a visit to
+friends. In recent times Walter Pater was a resident here.
+
+Leaving aside for a time Holland House, standing in beautiful grounds,
+which line the northern side of the road, and turning eastward, we find
+the Roman Catholic Pro-Cathedral, almost hidden behind houses. It is of
+dark-red brick, and was designed by Mr. Goldie, but the effect of the
+north porch is lost, owing to the buildings which hem it in; this defect
+will doubtless be remedied in time as leases expire. The interior of the
+cathedral is of great height, and the light stone arches are supported
+by pillars of polished Aberdeen granite.
+
+After Abingdon Road comes Allen Street, in which there is the Kensington
+Independent Chapel, a great square building with an imposing portico,
+built in 1854, "for the worshippers in the Hornton Street Chapel." The
+houses at the northern end of Allen Street are called Phillimore
+Terrace, and here Sir David Wilkie came in the autumn of 1824, having
+for the previous thirteen years lived in Lower Phillimore Place. His
+life in Kensington was quiet and regular. He says: "I dine at two
+o'clock, paint two hours in the forenoon and two hours in the afternoon,
+and take a short walk in the Park or through the fields twice a day."
+His mother and sister lived with him, and though he was a bachelor, his
+domestic affections were very strong. The time in Phillimore Terrace was
+far from bright; it was while he lived here that his mother died, also
+two of his brothers and his sister's _fiancé_; and many other troubles,
+including money worries, came upon him. He eventually moved, though not
+far, only to Vicarage Gardens (then Place), near Church Street.
+
+In Kensington Road, beyond Allen Street, was an ancient inn, the Adam
+and Eve, in which it is said that Sheridan used to stop for a drink on
+the way to and from Holland House, and where he ran up a bill which he
+coolly left to be settled by his friend Lord Holland. The inn is now
+replaced by a modern public-house of the same name. Between this and
+Wright's Lane the aspect of the place has been entirely changed in the
+last few years by the erection of huge red-brick flats. On the other
+side of Wright's Lane the enlarged premises of Messrs. Ponting have
+covered up the site of Scarsdale House, which only disappeared to make
+way for them. Scarsdale House is supposed to have been built by one of
+the Earls of Scarsdale (first creation), the second of whom married Lady
+Frances Rich, eldest daughter of the Earl of Warwick and Holland, but
+there is not much evidence to support this conjecture. At the same time,
+the house was evidently much older than the date of the second Scarsdale
+creation--namely, 1761. The difficulty is surmounted by Mr. Loftie, who
+says: "John Curzon, who founded it, and called it after the home of his
+ancestors in Derbyshire, had bought the land for the purpose of building
+on it."
+
+At the end of this lane is the Home for Crippled Boys, established in
+Woolsthorpe House. The house was evidently named after the home of Sir
+Isaac Newton at Woolsthorpe, near Grantham. But apparently he never
+lived in it. His only connection with this part is that here stood "a
+batch of good old family houses, one of which belonged to Sir Isaac
+Newton." It is possible that the name was given by an enthusiastic
+admirer, moved thereto by the fact that Newton had lived in Bullingham
+House, Church Street, not so far distant.
+
+In the 1837 map of the district Woolsthorpe is marked "Carmaerthen
+House." The front and the entrance are old, and in one of the rooms
+there is decorative moulding on the ceiling and a carved mantelpiece,
+but the schoolrooms and workshops built out at the back are all modern.
+The home had a very small beginning, being founded in 1866 by Dr. Bibby,
+who rented one room, and took in three crippled boys.
+
+In Marloes Road, further south, are the workhouse and infirmary.
+
+Returning to the High Street, the Free Library and the Town Hall attract
+attention. The latter is nearly on the site of the old free schools,
+which were built by Sir John Vanbrugh with all the solidity
+characteristic of his style; and Leigh Hunt opined, if suffered to
+remain, they would probably outlast the whole of Kensington. However, no
+such misfortune occurred, and the only relics of them remaining are the
+figures of the charity children of Queen Anne's period, which now stand
+above the doorway of the new schools at the back of the Town Hall.
+
+William Cobbett, "essayist, politician, agriculturist," lived in a house
+on the site of some of the great shops on the south side of the High
+Street, opposite the Town Hall. His grounds bordered on those of
+Scarsdale House, and he established in them a seed garden in which to
+carry out his practical experiments in agriculture. His pugnacity and
+sharp tongue led him into many a quarrel, and he was never a favourite
+with those who were his neighbours. He advocated Queen Caroline's cause
+with warmth, and was the real author of her famous letter to the King.
+But he will always be remembered best by his _Weekly Register_, a potent
+political weapon.
+
+The parish church of St. Mary Abbots, with its high spire, forms a very
+striking object on the north side of the road. There is a stone porch
+over the entrance to the churchyard, and a picturesque cloistered
+passage leading round the south side. Within the cloister is a tablet
+commemorating the fact that it was partly built by Rev. E. C. Glyn and
+his wife in memory of his mother, who died in 1892. A little further on,
+immediately facing the south door, is another tablet, stating that the
+porch at the entrance to the cloister was erected by the widow of James
+Liddle Fairless in memory of her husband, who died in 1891. Within the
+church the walls are thickly covered with memorial tablets, and on the
+north and south walls are rows of them set in coloured marble. The
+reredos is a representation of the four evangelists in mosaic work in
+four panels, enclosed in a Gothic canopy of marble. On the north side of
+the chancel is a fresco painting enclosed in marble, presented by the
+Archbishop of York on leaving the parish. On the south side there is
+also a small fresco painting, but the greater part of the wall is
+occupied by the sedilia. The transept on the south side of the nave
+contains numerous memorial tablets and two brasses: nearly all of these
+belong to the eighteenth century. The monument of the Rich family is
+against the west wall in this transept, and is a conspicuous object. A
+large marble slab against the wall bears the name of Edward Rich, last
+Earl of Warwick and Holland (died 1759), his wife Mary, who survived him
+ten years, and their only child Charlotte, who died unmarried. Above are
+the names of the Rich family, and below is the statue of the young Earl
+of Warwick and Holland, the stepson of Addison, who died in 1721, aged
+twenty-four. He is in Roman dress, life-size, and is represented seated
+with his right elbow resting on an urn.
+
+On the further side of the south door we have a curious old white marble
+monument to the memory of Mr. Colin Campbell (died 1708). This was in
+the old church, and was placed in its present position by a descendant
+of the Campbell family. The font, a handsome marble basin, stands in the
+north aisle. Near it is a marble bust of Dr. Rennell, a former vicar of
+Kensington, by Chantrey. In the north chapel there is a large marble
+tablet to the memory of William Murray, third son of the Earl of
+Dunmore. The pulpit is of dark carved oak, and stood in the old church.
+The west porch is very handsomely ornamented with stonework. In the
+churchyard are buried several persons of note, including Mrs. Inchbald,
+the authoress; and a son of George Canning, whose monument is by
+Chantrey.
+
+Among other entries in the registers may be noticed the marriage of
+Henry Cromwell, already mentioned. There are many records of the Hicks
+(Campden) family, also of the Winchilsea and Nottingham, Lawrence,
+Cecil, Boyle, Howard of Effingham, Brydges, Dukes of Chandos,
+Molesworth, and Godolphin families. The plate belonging to the church is
+very valuable. The oldest piece is a cup dating from 1599, and a silver
+tankard is of the year 1619. A full description of the plate was given
+by Mr. Cripps in the parish magazine in 1879.
+
+The church owes its additional name of Abbots to the fact of its having
+belonged to the Abbot and convent of Abingdon, as set forth in the
+history of the parish. Bowack says: "It does not appear that this church
+was ever dedicated to any saint, nor can we find, after a very strict
+search, by whom it was founded, though we have traced its vicars up to
+the year 1260."
+
+It has already been explained that Aubrey de Vere made a present to the
+Abbot of the slice of land on which the church stands, and that this
+formed a secondary manor in Kensington. This transfer had been made with
+the consent of Pope Alexander, but without the consent of the Bishop of
+London or the Archbishop. In consequence of this omission the title of
+the Abbey to the land was disputed, and it was at length settled that
+the patronage of the vicarage should be vested in the Bishop. This was
+in 1260. At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries the Abbot's
+portion became vested in the Crown, from which it passed to various
+persons; and when Sir Walter Cope bought the manor a special arrangement
+had to be made with Robert Horseman, who was then in possession.
+
+So much for the history. The actual fabric has been subject to much
+change, and has been rebuilt many times. It is known that a church was
+standing on this site in 1102, but how old it was then is only matter
+for conjecture; in 1370 it was wholly or partly rebuilt. And this church
+was pulled down about 1694, with the exception of the tower, and again
+rebuilt; but in seven years the new building began to crack, and in 1704
+the roof was taken off, and the north and south walls once more rebuilt.
+After this Bowack describes it as "of brick and handsomely finished; but
+what it was formerly may be guessed by the old tower now standing, which
+has some appearance of antiquity, and looks like the architecture of the
+twelfth or thirteenth centuries." In his encomium he probably spoke more
+in accordance with convention than with real approbation, for this
+church has been described by many other independent persons as an
+unsightly building, with no architectural beauty whatever; and as far as
+may be gathered from the prints still extant this is the true judgment.
+In 1811 it showed signs of decay, and underwent thorough restoration;
+and in 1869 it was entirely demolished, and the present church built
+from the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott. The spire, added a few years
+later, is only exceeded by two in England--namely, those of Salisbury
+and Norwich Cathedrals.
+
+There are many parish charities, which it would be out of place to
+enumerate here, and among them are several bequests for the cleansing
+and repair of tombs.
+
+The fine shops on the south side of the street inherit a more ancient
+title than might be supposed. Bowack, writing in 1705, speaks of the
+"abundance of shopkeepers and all sorts of artificers" along the
+high-road, "which makes it appear rather like a part of London than a
+country village."
+
+Leaving aside for the time Church Street and all the interesting
+district on the north, we turn to Kensington Square, which was begun
+about the end of James II.'s reign, and from the very first was a
+notably fashionable place, and more especially so after the Court was
+established at Kensington Palace. In Queen Anne's reign, "for beauty of
+buildings and worthy inhabitants," it "exceeds several noted squares in
+London." The eminent inhabitants have indeed been so numerous that it is
+difficult to prevent any account of them from degenerating into a mere
+catalogue. "In the time of George II. the demand for lodgings was so
+great that an Ambassador, a Bishop, and a physician were known to occupy
+apartments in the same house" (Faulkner).
+
+The two houses, Nos. 10 and 11, in the eastern corner on the south side
+are the two oldest that look on to the square. They were reserved for
+the maids of honour when the Court was at Kensington, and the wainscoted
+rooms and little powdering closets speak volumes as to their bygone
+days; these two were originally one house, as the exterior shows. Next
+door is the women's department of King's College. J. R. Green, the
+historian, lived at No. 14 until his death, and in No. 18 John S. Mill
+was living in 1839. Three Bishops at least are known to have been
+domiciled in the square: Bishop Mawson of Ely, who died here in 1770;
+Bishop Herring of Bangor, a very notable prelate, who was afterwards
+Archbishop of Canterbury; and in the south-western corner Bishop Hough
+of Oxford, Lichfield, and Worcester had a fine old house until 1732. The
+Convent of the Assumption now covers the same ground in Nos. 20 to 24.
+The original object of the convent was prayer for the conversion of
+England to the Roman Catholic faith, but the sisters now devote
+themselves to the work of teaching; they have a pleasant garden, more
+than an acre in extent, stretching out at the back of the house. In the
+chapel there is a fresco painting by Westlake.
+
+No. 26 is the Kensington Foundation Grammar School. Talleyrand lived in
+Nos. 36 and 37, formerly one house. He succeeded Bishop Herring in the
+occupancy, after a lapse of fifty years, and the man who had abandoned
+the vocation of the Church to follow diplomacy was thus sheltered by the
+same roof that had sheltered a Churchman by vocation, if ever there were
+one. Many foreign ambassadors patronized the square at various times.
+The Duchess of Mazarin, already mentioned in the volume on Chelsea, was
+here in 1692, and six years later moved to her Chelsea home, where she
+died; but her day was over many years before she came here. Joseph
+Addison lodged in the square for a time, four or five years before his
+marriage with the Countess of Warwick. At No. 41 Sir Edward Burne-Jones
+lived for three years, subsequently removing to West Kensington, but the
+association which has most glorified the square is its proximity to
+Young Street, so long the home of Thackeray. He came to No. 16, then 13,
+in 1846, aged only thirty-five, but with the romance of his life behind
+him. A tablet marks the window in which he used to work. Six years
+previously his wife, whom he had tenderly loved, had developed
+melancholia, and, soon becoming a confirmed invalid, had had to be
+placed permanently under medical care. Their married life had been very
+short, only four or five years, but Thackeray had three little daughters
+to remind him of it. He had passed through many vicissitudes, from the
+comparatively opulent days of youth and the University to the time when
+he had lost all his patrimony and been forced to support himself
+precariously by pen and pencil. Yearly he had become better known, and
+by the time he came to Young Street he was sufficiently removed from
+money troubles to be without that worst form of worry, anxiety for the
+future. He had contributed to the _Times_, _Frazer's Magazine_, and
+_Punch_. It is rather odd to read that at the time when _Punch_ was
+started one of Thackeray's friends was rather sorry that he should
+become a contributor, fearing that it would lower his status in the
+literary world! It was in _Punch_, nevertheless, that his first real
+triumph was won. The "Snob Papers" attracted universal attention, and
+were still running when he moved to Young Street. Here he began more
+serious work, and scarcely a year later "Vanity Fair" was brought out in
+numbers, according to the fashion made popular by Dickens. It did not
+prove an instantaneous success, but by the time it had run its course
+its author's position was assured. In spite of the sorrow that
+overshadowed his domestic life--and he had by this time for many years
+given up any hope of communicating with his wife--the time he spent in
+this house cannot have been unhappy. He had congenial work, many
+friends, among whom were numbered his fellow contributor Leech, also G.
+F. Watts, Herman Merivale, the Theodore Martins, Monckton Milnes,
+Kinglake, and others. He had also his daughters, and he was a loving and
+sympathetic father, realizing that children need brightness in their
+lives as well as mere care, and taking his little family about whenever
+he could to parties and shows; and he had a growing reputation in the
+literary world. "Pendennis" was published in 1848, and before it had
+finished running Thackeray suffered from a severe illness, that left its
+mark on all his succeeding life.
+
+It was after this that Miss Brontë came to dine with him in Young
+Street. She had admired "Vanity Fair" immensely, and was ready to offer
+hero-worship; but the sensitive, dull little governess did not reveal in
+society the fire that had made her books live, and we are told that
+Thackeray, although her host, found the dinner so dull that he slipped
+away to his club before she left. He had now a good income from his
+books, and added to it by lecturing. "Esmond" appeared in 1852, and the
+references to my Lady Castlewood's house in Kensington Square and the
+Greyhound tavern (the name of the inn opposite to Thackeray's own house)
+will be remembered by everyone. The novelist visited America shortly
+after, and then went with his children to Switzerland, and it was in
+Switzerland that the idea for "The Newcomes" came to him. Young Street
+can only claim a part of that book, for in 1853 he moved to Onslow
+Square, and the last number of "The Newcomes" did not appear until 1855.
+However, this was not his last connection with this part of Kensington,
+for in 1861 he built himself a house in Palace Green, but he only
+occupied it for two years, when his death occurred at the early age of
+fifty-two.
+
+The houses in Kensington Court, near by, are elaborately decorated with
+ornamental terra-cotta mouldings. They stand just about the place where
+once was Kensington House, which had something of a history. It was for
+a while the residence of the Duchess of Portsmouth (Louise de
+Querouaille), and later was the school of Dr. Elphinstone, referred to
+in Boswell's "Life of Johnson," and supposed, on the very slightest
+grounds, to have been the original of one of Smollett's brutal
+schoolmasters in "Roderick Random"; though the driest of pedagogues,
+Elphinstone was the reverse of brutal. The house was subsequently a
+Roman Catholic seminary, and then a boarding-house, where Mrs. Inchbald
+lodged, and in which she died in 1821.
+
+Close by was another old house, made notorious by its owner's
+miserliness; this man, Sir Thomas Colby, died intestate, and his fortune
+of £200,000 was divided among six or seven day labourers, who were his
+next of kin. A new Kensington House was built on the site of these two,
+and is said to have cost £250,000, but its owner got into difficulties,
+and eventually the costly house was pulled down, and its fittings sold
+for a twentieth part of their value. Near at hand are De Vere Gardens,
+to which Robert Browning came in June, 1887, from Warwick Crescent.
+
+Further eastward we come to Palace Gate. Some of this property belongs
+to the local charities. It is known as Butts Field Estate, and was so
+called from the fact that the butts for archery practice were once set
+up here.
+
+
+KENSINGTON GARDENS AND PALACE.
+
+The Gardens are so intimately connected with the Palace that it is
+impossible to touch upon the one without the other, and though Leigh
+Hunt caustically remarked that a criticism might be made on Kensington
+that it has "a Palace which is no palace, Gardens which are no gardens,
+and a river called the Serpentine which is neither serpentine nor a
+river," yet in spite of this the Palace, the Gardens, and the river
+annually give pleasure to thousands, and possess attractions of their
+own by no means despicable. The flower-beds in the gardens nearest to
+Kensington Road are beautiful enough in themselves to justify the title
+of gardens. This is the quarter most patronized by nursemaids and their
+charges. There are shady narrow paths, also the Broad Walk, with its
+leafy overarching boughs resembling one of Nature's aisles, and the
+Round Pond, pleasant in spite of its primness. The Gardens were not
+always open to the public, but partly belonged to the palace of
+time-soiled bricks to which the public is now also admitted.
+
+The first house on this site of which we have any reliable detail is
+that built by Sir Heneage Finch, the second of the name, who was Lord
+Chancellor under Charles I. and was created Earl of Nottingham in 1681,
+though it is probable that there had been some building on or near the
+same place before, possibly the manor-house of the Abbot. The first Earl
+of Nottingham had bought the estate from his younger brother, Sir John,
+and it was from his successor, the second earl, that William III. bought
+Nottingham House, as it was then called.
+
+William suffered much from asthma, and the gravel pits of Kensington
+were then considered very healthy, and combined the advantages of not
+being very far from town with the pure air of the country. Of course,
+the house had to be enlarged in order to be suitable for a royal
+residence, but it was not altogether demolished, and there are parts of
+the original Nottingham House still standing, probably the south side of
+the courtyard, where the brick is of a deeper shade than the rest. King
+William's taste in the matter of architecture knew no deviation; his
+model was Versailles, and as he had commissioned Wren to transform the
+Tudor building of Hampton into a palace resembling Versailles, so he
+directed him to repeat the experiment here. The long, low red walls,
+with their neat exactitude, speak still of William's orders; a building
+of heterogeneous growth, with a tower here and an angle there, would
+have disgusted him: his ideal would have found its fulfilment in a
+modern barrack. Wren's taste, later aided by the lapse of time, softened
+down the hard angularity of the building, but it can in no sense be
+considered admirable. Thus Kensington Palace was built, and its walls
+and its park like gardens were to be as closely associated with the
+Hanoverian Sovereigns as the building and park of St. James's had been
+associated with the Stuarts whom William had supplanted.
+
+The Palace was not finished when Queen Mary was seized with small-pox
+and died within its walls, leaving a husband who, though narrow and
+austere, had really loved her. He himself died at Kensington eight years
+later. Good-hearted Queen Anne, whose last surviving child had died two
+years before, took up her residence at the Palace, of which she was
+always extremely fond. The death of her husband in 1708 left her to a
+lonely reign, and she seems to have solaced herself with her garden,
+superintending the laying out of the grounds. She had no taste, and
+everything she ordered was dull and formal; yet she could not spoil the
+natural beauty of the situation, and she still had Wren to direct her
+in architectural matters. The great orangery which goes by her name, and
+now stands empty and forlorn, is seen on nearing the public entrance to
+the state apartments of the Palace, and is in itself a wonderful example
+of Wren's genius for proportion. The private gardens of the Palace must
+not be confounded with the larger grounds, which stretched up to Hyde
+Park. The whole place had a very different aspect at that time: there
+were King William's gardens, with formal flower-beds and walks in the
+Dutch style, and northward lay Queen Anne's additional gardens, very
+much in the same style. The rest was comparatively uncared-for and
+waste. Queen Anne died at Kensington from apoplexy, brought on by
+over-eating, and was succeeded by the first George, who spent so much of
+his time in visiting his Hanoverian dominions that he had not much left
+for performing the merely necessary Court duties at St. James's, and
+none to spare for any lengthy visits to Kensington. However, he admired
+the place, and caused alterations to be made. It was in his reign that
+the ugly annexe on the east side, bearing unmistakably a Georgian
+origin, was added, under the superintendence of William Kent, who had
+supplanted Wren. George's daughter-in-law, "Caroline the Illustrious,"
+loved Kensington, and has left her impress on it more than any other
+occupant. When her husband came to the throne, she spent much of her
+time, during his long absences abroad, at the Palace. She employed Kent
+to do away with William's formal flower-beds, and she added much ground
+to the Gardens, taking for the purpose 100 acres from Hyde Park, and
+dividing the two parks by the Serpentine River, formed from the pools in
+the bed of the Westbourne. There were eleven pools altogether, but in
+later days, when the Westbourne stream had become a mere sewer, in which
+form it still flows underground and empties itself into the Thames near
+Chelsea Bridge, the Chelsea waterworks supplied the running water. The
+elaborate terrace, with its fountains at the north end, is a favourite
+place with children. The statue of Sir William Jenner stands near; it
+was brought from Trafalgar Square. In winter, when frozen over, the
+Serpentine affords skating-room for hundreds of persons, and at other
+times bathing is permitted in the early morning.
+
+In her gardens the fair Queen walked with her bevy of maids of honour,
+that bevy which has always been renowned for its beauty, herself the
+fairest of all. These fascinating, light-hearted girls grew up in an age
+of coarseness and vice, and were surrounded by temptation, which all,
+alas! did not resist, in spite of their royal mistress's example and
+courage. It was an age of meaningless gallantry and real brutality; the
+high-flown compliment and pretended adoration covered cynical intention
+and unabashed effrontery. Caroline herself preserved an untainted name,
+and her influence must have been a rock of salvation to the giddy,
+laughing girls. Leigh Hunt, quoting from the "Suffolk Correspondence,"
+thus summarizes these maids: "There is Miss Hobart, the sweet tempered
+and sincere (now become Mrs. Howard, afterwards Lady Suffolk); Miss
+Howe, the giddiest of the giddy (which she lived to lament); Margaret
+Bellenden, who vied in height with her royal mistress; the beautiful
+Mary Bellenden, her sister, who became Duchess of Argyll; Mary Lepel,
+the lovely, who became Lady Hervey; and Anne Pitt, sister of the future
+Lord Chatham, and as 'like him as two drops of fire.'"
+
+Caroline's devotion to her insignificant little lord and master, and the
+eagerness with which she hastened on foot to meet him, running across
+the Gardens, on his return from the Continent, have been made the
+subject of satire. She was generally accompanied by her five daughters,
+a pathetic little band, cramped in the fetters of royalty, so stringent
+toward their sex. Portraits of two of them may be seen in the Palace.
+
+Caroline did not die at Kensington, though her husband did, after having
+survived her more than twenty years, and having in the meantime
+discovered her inestimable worth. At this time the Gardens were open to
+the public on Saturdays by Queen Caroline's orders, and were a favourite
+parade, though, as everyone was requested to appear in "full dress," the
+numbers must have been limited. The principal promenade was the Broad
+Walk, which Caroline herself had caused to be made. We can picture these
+ghosts of the past, with their gay silks and satins, the silver-buckled
+shoes with coloured heels, the men in their long waistcoats, heavily
+skirted coats, and three-cornered hats--very fine beaux, indeed; and the
+women stiffly encased in the most uncomfortable garments that ever the
+wit of mortal devised, holding their heads erect, lest the marvellous
+pyramids, built up with such expenditure of time and money, should
+topple over, and, in spite of all disadvantages, looking pretty and
+piquant. It was a crowd not so far removed from us by time, so that we
+can attribute to the men and women who composed it the same feelings and
+sensibilities as our own. And yet they were very far removed from us in
+their surroundings, for many of the things that are to us commonplace
+would have been to them miraculous, so that they seem more different
+from us of a hundred years later than from those who preceded them by
+many hundreds of years. It is this mingling of a life we can
+understand, with circumstances so different, that gives the eighteenth
+century its predominant and never-dying charm.
+
+In 1798 we hear of a man being accidentally shot while the keepers were
+hunting (presumably shooting) foxes in Kensington Gardens.
+
+In the Palace itself the state apartments are now open to the public
+every day of the week except Wednesdays. This admittance was granted by
+Queen Victoria in commemoration of her eightieth year. Previously to
+this time the Palace had been allowed to fall into decay, and it needed
+a large grant from Parliament to put it into repair again. The state
+rooms, which are on the second floor, are well worth a visit, and the
+names of each, such as "Queen Mary's Gallery," "Queen Caroline's
+Drawing-room," and "King's Privy Chamber," are above the doors, as at
+Hampton Court. These rooms are nearly all liberally supplied with
+pictures, many of which were restored from Hampton Court after having
+been previously taken there. We see here the winsome face of the poor
+little Duke of Gloucester (p. 72), handsome Queen Caroline, sardonic
+William, and the family group of the children of Frederick, Prince of
+Wales. The selection has been made with judgment, and every picture
+speaks to us of the reigns most closely connected with the Palace. It is
+well to note the view eastward from the King's Drawing-room, which
+comes as a surprise. The outlook is over the Round Pond and down a vista
+of trees to the Serpentine, and gives a surprising effect of distance.
+The rooms that will always attract most attention, however, are those
+which were occupied by Queen Victoria as a child.
+
+When the Duke and Duchess of Kent came to Kensington Palace seven months
+after their marriage, the fact that a child of theirs might occupy the
+English throne was a possibility, but a remote one. George III. was then
+on the throne; the daughter and only child of his eldest son, Princess
+Charlotte, had died a year previously, and it was natural that after
+this event the succession should be considered in a new light. The next
+son, William, Duke of Clarence, had carried on a lifelong connection
+with Mrs. Jordan, by whom he had ten children, and when the death of his
+elder brother's only child made him heir to the throne, it was necessary
+for him to contract a more suitable alliance, so with great reluctance
+he married Adelaide, daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg Meiningen, in
+1818. Frederick, Duke of York, the next in age, had been married for
+many years, but his union had proved childless. He is the Duke
+commemorated in the column in Waterloo Place, and also in the
+soldier-boys' school at Chelsea.
+
+Therefore the birth of a daughter to the Duke of Kent, the fourth son,
+at Kensington Palace on May 24, 1819, was an event of no small
+importance. The room in which the Princess was born was one on the first
+floor, just below the King's Privy Chamber, and it is marked by a brass
+plate. This is not among the state apartments shown to the public, but
+the little room called the Nursery, in which the young Princess played,
+and her small bedroom adjoining, lie in the regular circuit made by
+visitors through the rooms.
+
+The Duke died less than a year after his daughter's birth, so there were
+no small brothers or sisters to share the Princess's childhood; but her
+stepsister, Princess Feodore, her mother's child, was much attached to
+her, and might often be seen walking or driving with her in the Gardens.
+The Nursery has a secondary association, for the Duke and Duchess of
+Teck lived for some time at Kensington Palace, and it was in this room
+that their daughter, the present Princess of Wales, was born.
+
+The chief objects in the room are the dolls' house and other toys, all
+of the plainest description, with which Princess Victoria played as a
+child. There was no extravagance in her bringing up. Her mother was the
+wisest of women, and made no attempt to force the young intellect to
+tasks beyond its powers, nor did she spoil the child by undue
+indulgence. Early rising, morning walks, simple dinner, and games,
+constituted the days that passed rapidly in the seclusion of Kensington.
+When the young Princess had turned the age of five, her lessons began
+under the superintendence of Fräulein Lehzen, the governess of Princess
+Feodore, who was afterwards raised to the peerage as Baroness Lehzen.
+Though the second of the children of the Duke of Clarence had died
+before Victoria was three years old, and thus her chance of the throne
+was greatly increased, she was not made aware of her prospects until
+much later. The Princess Sophia, daughter of George III., lived in
+Church Street close by, at York House, and the Duke of Sussex, a younger
+son of George III., lived with his morganatic wife, called the Duchess
+of Inverness, in a set of apartments in the Palace. The rooms they
+occupied are those now tenanted by the Duke and Duchess of Argyll; thus
+aunts and an uncle were constantly sharing the simple pleasures of the
+little family circle.
+
+The singularly plain little bedroom near to the Nursery in the Palace is
+that which Princess Victoria occupied during all her happy childhood,
+and it was here that she was awakened to meet the Archbishop and
+Minister who brought her the news that her great inheritance had come
+upon her. The death of the Duke of York had already cleared the way to
+the throne, and as the years went by and the Duke of Clarence had no
+more children, it was seen that the little girl who played at Kensington
+must, if she lived, be Queen of England. When George IV. died, when she
+was eleven years old, her prospects were assured, and since that time
+she had been prepared for her future position. William IV.'s short reign
+of only seven years seated her on the throne when she had just passed
+her eighteenth year. The account of her being awakened in the early
+morning by messengers bearing a message of such tremendous import, her
+hasty rising, and stepping through into the Long Gallery with her hair
+falling over her shoulders, and only a shawl thrown around her, is well
+known to everyone.
+
+The room in which her first Council took place is below the Cube Room.
+No wonder that Queen Victoria had always a tender memory of Kensington
+Palace.
+
+Her favourite daughter, Princess Beatrice of Battenberg, occupies a
+suite of rooms at the Palace, besides Princess Louise, Duchess of
+Argyll; and there are several other occupants--widows, retired army men,
+and those who have some claim on the private generosity of the
+Crown--who live here in sets of apartments, in the same way as others
+live at Hampton Court.
+
+The somewhat untidy forcing-beds which now stand in the immediate
+proximity to the Palace, and which supply the royal parks, are shortly
+to be cleared away--a decided improvement.
+
+Queen Victoria's connection with Kensington did not cease at her
+accession. At Prince Albert's suggestion a great Exhibition was held in
+1851, and the huge palace of glass and iron, which was to house it,
+sprang up in the Gardens at the spot where the Albert Memorial now
+stands. Foreigners from all parts of the world visited the Exhibition,
+and the buildings were crowded. Very different was that crowd from that
+which had promenaded in the Gardens in the reigns of the Georges. Women
+wore coalscuttle bonnets and three-cornered shawls, with the points
+hanging down in the centre of their backs, and crinolines that gave them
+the appearance of inverted tops. Their beauty must have been very potent
+to shine through such a disguise! The profits of the Exhibition amounted
+to £150,000, which was invested in land in South Kensington. The Crystal
+Palace exactly suited the taste of the age, and when it had fulfilled
+the function for which it was primarily intended, the difficulty was to
+know what to do with it; it was not possible to leave it in the Gardens,
+so it was finally transported to Sydenham, where it still annually
+delights thousands.
+
+The Albert Memorial took twenty years to complete, and cost more than
+£130,000. The four groups representing the continents of the world are
+fine both in execution and idea, also the bas-reliefs, in which every
+figure depicts some real person, and the smaller groups of Commerce,
+Manufactures, Agriculture, and Engineering. As much, unfortunately,
+cannot be said for the tawdry statue in its canopy.
+
+It has been necessary to linger long over the Gardens and the Palace,
+but we must now turn northward up Church Street to complete our
+perambulation of the district. In Church Street is the Carmelite Church,
+designed by Pugin, and though very simple in style, not pleasing. It was
+built in 1865. The organ is an especially fine one, and the singing is
+famous. There is a relic of St. Simon Stock beneath the altar, which is
+very highly prized. The monastery extends along the side of Duke's Lane
+at the back of the church. It is rather an ornamental building, with
+stone pinnacles and carved stonework over the doorway. It opens upon the
+corner where Duke's Lane meets Pitt Street, and close by stood
+Bullingham House, where Sir Isaac Newton lived. It has now disappeared,
+and red-brick mansions have risen upon the site.
+
+Mr. Loftie, writing in 1888, says: "When we enter the garden from Pitt
+Street we see there are two distinct houses. One of them to the north
+appears slightly the older of the two, and has an eastward wing,
+slightly projecting from which a passage opened on Church Street. The
+adjoining, or southern, house has greater architectural pretensions, and
+within is of more solid construction. Both have been much pulled about
+and altered at various times, and are now thrown together by passages
+through the walls. A chamber is traditionally pointed out as that in
+which Sir Isaac Newton died."
+
+Sir Isaac at the time he came to Kensington was at the height of his
+fame and reputation, and held the office of Master at the Mint, after
+having been previously Deputy-Master. He had come to London from
+Cambridge, and settled in Leicester Square (see _The Strand_, same
+series), but finding his health suffer in consequence of the dirt and
+smoke, he moved "out of London" to Kensington. He remained here two
+years consecutively, and returned shortly before his death.
+
+He may have been attracted to Kensington by its vicinity to the Palace.
+Queen Caroline, even as Princess of Wales, had always shown an
+inclination for the society of learned men, and in particular had showed
+favour to Sir Isaac. His portrait by Sir Godfrey Kneller hangs in one of
+the state apartments at the Palace.
+
+Bullingham House was probably called after John Bullingham, Bishop of
+Gloucester and Bristol, who died at Kensington in 1598. Later,
+Bullingham House was known at one time as Orbell's buildings, for
+Stephen Pitt, after whom the street is named, had married the daughter
+of Orbell. The house was subsequently used as a boarding-school.
+
+On the eastern side of Church Street are the barracks and one or two
+large houses. In Maitland House lived James Mill, author of the "History
+of India," and father of the better known J. S. Mill. There is a tablet
+to his memory on one of the pillars in the church. York House was, as
+has been said, the home of Princess Sophia, who died here in 1848. This
+house is now to be demolished.
+
+Church Street sweeps to the west a little further on, and at the corner
+stands a Roman Catholic orphanage, where fifty or sixty girls are
+provided for. There is a chapel within the walls, and night-schools are
+held, which are attended by children from outside. The continuation of
+the road northward, which becomes Brunswick Gardens, was made in 1877,
+and as the old vicarage stood right in the way it had to be pulled down.
+Bowack says that the vicarage was "valued yearly in the Queen's [Queen
+Anne's] Book at £18 18s. 4d., but is supposed to be worth near £400 per
+annum." In Vicarage Gate northward is a small church (St. Paul's) served
+by the clergy of St. Mary Abbots. The origin of the name Mall in this
+part of Kensington is not definitely ascertained. It of course refers to
+the game so popular in the reign of the Stuarts, and there may have been
+a ground here, but there is no reference to it in contemporary records.
+In the Mall there is New Jerusalem Church, with an imposing portico. It
+was formerly a Baptist Church, and was bought by the Swedenborgians in
+1872. A bright red-brick church of the Unitarians is a little further
+on. Behind the Mall is Kensington Palace Gardens--really a slice of the
+Gardens--a wide road with immense houses, correctly designated mansions,
+standing back in their own grounds. This road is only open to ordinary
+traffic on sufferance, and is liable to be closed at any time.
+
+The part of Kensington lying to the west of Church Street and extending
+to Notting Hill Gate was that formerly known as the Gravel Pits, and
+considered particularly healthy on account of its dry soil and bracing
+air. Bowack says that here there are "several handsome new-built houses,
+and of late years has been discovered a chalybeate spring." Swift had
+lodgings at the Gravel Pits between 1712 and 1713, and Anne Pitt, sister
+of Lord Chatham, one of the bright bevy of Queen Caroline's maids of
+honour, is reported to have died at her house at the Gravel Pits in
+1780.
+
+The most celebrated house here was Campden House, completely rebuilt
+fifty years ago, and entirely demolished within the last two years. Old
+Campden House was called after Sir Baptist Hicks, created Viscount
+Campden. It is said that he won the land on which it stands from Sir
+Walter Cope at a game, and thereupon built the house. This is the
+generally accepted version of the affair, but it is probable that there
+was some sort of a house standing here already. Bowack says: "Two
+houses, called Holland and Campden Houses, were built ... by Mr. Cope
+... erected before the death of Queen Elizabeth." And, again (quoting
+from the Rev. C. Seward), "The second seat called Campden House was
+purchased or won at some sort of game of Sir Walter Cope by Sir Baptist
+Hicks." He adds that it was a "very noble Pile and finished with all the
+art the Architects of that time were capable of." The mere fact of such
+a prize being won at a game of chance was likely enough in the days when
+gaming ran high. Lysons, on the other hand, distinctly says that the
+house "was built about 1612 by Sir Baptist Hicks, whose arms with that
+date and those of his sons-in-law, Edward, Lord Noel, and Sir Charles
+Morrison, are in a large bay-window in the front." It is most probable
+that Sir Baptist, on taking over the estate and the house then existing,
+so restored it as to amount to an almost complete rebuilding. He was
+created Viscount Campden in 1628, with remainder to Lord Noel, who
+succeeded him. Lord Noel's son, Baptist, the third Viscount, had
+Royalist tendencies, for which he was mulcted in the sum of £9,000
+during the Rebellion. He married for his fourth wife Elizabeth, daughter
+of the Earl of Lindsey, and the Earl himself died at Campden House. The
+title went to Viscount Campden's eldest son Edward, who was created Earl
+of Gainsborough, and in default of male issue it afterwards reverted to
+his younger brother. The house itself had been settled on another son,
+Henry, who died before his father, leaving a daughter, who married
+Richard Boyle, third Earl of Burlington. Previous to this Queen (then
+Princess) Anne had taken the house for five years on account of her only
+surviving child, William Henry, Duke of Gloucester. There are few
+stories in history more pathetic than that of this poor little Prince,
+the only one of Anne's seventeen children who survived infancy. With his
+unnaturally large head and rickety legs, he would in these days have
+been kept from all intellectual effort, and been obliged to lie down the
+greater part of his time. But in that age drastic treatment was in
+favour, and the already precocious child was crammed with knowledge,
+while his sickly little frame was compelled to undergo rigorous
+discipline. He was a boy of no small degree of character, and with
+martial tastes touching in one so feeble. He died at the age of eleven
+of small-pox, not at Kensington, and perhaps it was as well for him
+that, with such inordinate sensibility and such a constitution, he did
+not live to inherit his mother's throne. His servant Lewis, who was
+devotedly attached to him, wrote a little biography of him, which is one
+of the curiosities of literature.
+
+In 1704 the Dowager-Countess of Burlington came here with her son
+Richard, then only a boy, afterwards famous as an architect and art
+lover. In 1719 the house was sold, and came into possession of the
+Lechmere family. It did not remain with them long, but was purchased by
+Stephen Pitt, who let it as a school. In 1862 it was partially destroyed
+by fire. It was then bought by the Metropolitan Railway Company, who
+rebuilt it, and let it to tenants. Later on a charmingly-built row of
+houses and mansions rose up on its grounds to face Sheffield Terrace.
+The appearance of the later house was very different from that of the
+old one, and the arms mentioned by Lysons as being over a front window
+had quite disappeared.
+
+Little Campden House, on the western side, was built for the suite of
+the Princess Anne, and Stephen Pitt occupied this himself when he let
+Campden House. It was latterly divided into two houses; one was called
+Lancaster Lodge, and the other, after being renovated and redecorated,
+was taken by Vicat Cole, R.A., until his death.
+
+Gloucester Walk, on the south side, is, of course, called after the poor
+little Duke. Sheffield Gardens and Terrace, as well as Berkeley Gardens,
+stand on the site of old Sheffield House. Leigh Hunt says that the house
+was owned by Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire, but he adduces no fact
+in support of his assertion; in any case, there are no historical
+associations connected with it.
+
+In Observatory Gardens Sir James South, the astronomer, had a house,
+where there was a large observatory. He mounted an equatorial telescope
+in the grounds, by the use of which, some years previously, he and Sir
+J. Herschel had made a catalogue of 380 binary stars. He strenuously
+resisted any opening up of the district by road or rail, lest the
+vibrations of traffic should interfere with his delicate observations
+and render them useless. He died here in 1867. On the south side of
+Campden Hill Gardens are a number of houses standing in their own
+grounds, and, from the rank of their residents, this part has gained the
+name of the "Dukeries." Holly Lodge was named Airlie Lodge for a few
+years when tenanted by the Earl of Airlie, but reverted to the older
+name afterwards. Airlie Gardens is a reminiscence of the interlude.
+Lord Macaulay lived for the three years preceding his death in Holly
+Lodge.
+
+Holland Lane is a shady footpath running right over the hill from
+Kensington Road to Notting Hill Gate; it passes the wall of Aubrey
+House, once the manor-house of Notting Hill. Though the name is a
+comparatively new one, the house is old and, to use the favourite word
+of older writers, much "secluded"; it is shut in from observation by its
+high wall and by the shady trees surrounding it. The building is very
+picturesque and the garden charming, yet many people pass it daily and
+never know of its existence.
+
+St. George's Church, Campden Hill Road, dates from 1864; the interior is
+spoilt by painted columns and heavy galleries, but the stained glass at
+the east end is very richly coloured, and there is a carved stone
+reredos. The tower is high, but it is dwarfed by the tower of the Grand
+Junction Waterworks near at hand. Across Campden Hill Road is the
+reservoir of the West Middlesex Water Company, which, from its
+commanding elevation, supplies a large district by the power of
+gravitation.
+
+Holland Park is a great irregular oblong, extending from Kensington Road
+on the south very nearly to Holland Park Road on the north. Its average
+length is little more than a mile, and it varies from five-eighths of a
+mile in its widest part to a quarter of a mile in the narrowest.
+
+In the summary of the history of Kensington, at the beginning of the
+book, it was mentioned that when Sir Walter Cope bought the manor at the
+end of the sixteenth century, Robert Horseman had the lease of the
+Abbot's manor-house, and being unwilling to part with it, he made a
+compromise by which he was to be still permitted to live there. Sir
+Walter Cope had, therefore, no suitable manor-house, so in 1607 he built
+Holland House, which at first went by the name of Cope Castle. He died
+seven years later, leaving his widow in possession, but on her
+re-marriage, in another seven years, the house came to Cope's daughter
+Isabel, who had married Sir Henry Rich. He was created Lord Kensington a
+year later, and in 1624 made Earl of Holland. He added considerably to
+the house, which was henceforth known by his name. Holland was a younger
+son of the Earl of Warwick, and after his execution for having taken
+arms in the cause of Charles I., this title descended, through lack of
+heirs in the elder branch, to his son, as well as that of Earl of
+Holland.
+
+The house was seized by the Commonwealth, and the Parliamentary
+Generals, Fairfax and Lambert, lived there. Timbs quotes from the
+_Perfect Diurnal_, July 9 to 16, 1649: "The Lord-General Fairfax is
+removed from Queen Street to the late Earl of Holland's house at
+Kensington, where he intends to reside." The house was restored to its
+rightful owners at the Restoration. The widowed Countess seems later to
+have let it, for there were several notable tenants, among whom was Sir
+Charles Chardin, the traveller, who went to Persia with the avowed
+intention of seeking a fortune, which he certainly gained, in addition
+to unexpected celebrity. He died in 1735, and is buried at Chiswick.
+Afterwards, William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was a tenant of
+Holland House; the name of Van Dyck has also been mentioned in this
+connection, but there is not sufficient evidence to make it more than a
+tradition.
+
+Joseph Addison married the widow of the sixth Earl of Holland and
+Warwick in 1716. He was an old family friend and had known her long, yet
+the experiment did not turn out satisfactorily. The Countess was
+something of a termagant, and it is said that to escape from her he
+often went to the White Horse inn at the corner of Lord Holland's Lane
+and there enjoyed "his favourite dish--a fillet of veal--his bottle, and
+perhaps a friend." His married life was of very short duration, only
+three years, but his brief residence at Holland House has added to its
+associations more richly than all the names of preceding times. Addison
+had attempted from the first to influence the young Earl, whose
+stepfather he became, and some of his letters to the youth are
+singularly charming, but his care seems to have been ill-requited, and
+the famous death-bed scene, in which the man of letters sent for the
+dissolute young Earl to "see how a Christian can die," was as much in
+the nature of a rebuke as a warning. Addison left only one daughter, who
+died unmarried. The last earl died in 1759, leaving no male heir, and
+the title became extinct.
+
+Through an Elizabeth Rich, who had married Francis Edwardes, the estates
+passed into the Edwardes family, by whom they were sold to Henry Fox,
+second son of Sir Stephen Fox, Paymaster-General of the Forces in the
+reign of Charles II., through whose exertions it was in great part that
+Chelsea Hospital was built. Henry Fox followed in his father's steps,
+becoming Paymaster-General under George II., and was created Baron
+Holland in 1763. His second son was the famous statesman Charles James
+Fox. Thus, after the lapse of about four years only, the old title was
+revived in an entirely different family. Henry Fox's elder brother was
+created first Baron, and then Earl, of Ilchester, which is the title of
+the present owner of Holland House.
+
+The plan of the house is that of a capital letter E with the centre
+stroke extremely small, and was designed by Thorpe, but added to by
+Inigo Jones and others. Sir Walter Cope's building in 1607 included the
+centre block and two porches, and the first Earl of Holland, between the
+years 1725 and 1735, added the two wings and the arcades. It is in a
+good style of Elizabethan domestic architecture, and within is full of
+nooks and corners and unexpected galleries, betraying that variety which
+can only come from growth, and is never the result of a set plan. The
+rooms are magnificent, and are exceptionally rich in their fittings and
+collections--collections by various owners which have made the whole
+house a museum. On the ground floor are the Breakfast, China, Map,
+Journal, and Print rooms--the last three known as the West
+Rooms--Allen's Room, and the White Parlour. On the first floor the most
+important rooms are the Gilt, Miniature, and the Yellow Drawing-room,
+the Sir Joshua Blue-room and Dining-room, and Lady Holland's apartments.
+
+In the entrance-hall are busts of the Duke of Cumberland, by Rysbrach;
+Francis, Duke of Bedford, and Charles James Fox, by Nollekens; the Right
+Hon. J. Hookham Frere, by Chantrey, and others. The staircase has a
+frescoed ceiling, by G. F. Watts, R.A., who has done much for the
+decoration of the house, and who lives in Melbury Road hard by. There
+is on the staircase a massive oaken screen with pillars, matching the
+carved balustrade. The Breakfast-room, facing south, is a charming room;
+it was formerly the hall when the main entrance was on this side of the
+house. The walls are hung with velvet brocade and rich silk, and
+panelled with four _arazzi_, enclosed in strips of gold embroidery. The
+tapestries are Gobelins, by Coypel, director of the Gobelin
+establishment. The China-room contains some splendid services, chiefly
+of Sèvres and Dresden. The rooms called the West Rooms contain many
+treasures: a collection of prints after Italian masters, and some of the
+Dutch and French schools. From these is reached the Swannery, a large
+room on the west side of the house, built by the present owner, and
+finished in 1891; here there is an ornamental painting of swans by
+Bouverie Goddard, which was exhibited in the Royal Academy. Allen's Room
+owes its name to John Allen, an intimate friend of the third Lord
+Holland, who accompanied him abroad, and was his confidant until his
+death, after which Allen continued to live at Holland House. The
+description of the White Parlour in any detail would be impossible, so
+elaborate is the decoration of its mouldings and panels. In this room
+there are two chests, the property of Sir Stephen Fox, the
+Paymaster-General, and very interesting specimens of their time they
+are. In the Gilt Room upstairs are curved recesses prepared by the first
+Earl of Holland, who proposed entertaining Prince Charles at a ball when
+he married Princess Henrietta Maria; however, in spite of the elaborate
+preparations, the ball never took place. The medallions of the King and
+Queen, Sully, and Henri IV. are still on the lower part of the
+chimney-breasts. The upper parts of the chimneypieces and the ceiling
+were done by Francis Cleyn, who decorated much at Versailles; and when
+the chimneypieces came down, in 1850, G. F. Watts, R.A., painted the
+gilt figures on the upper portions. The gilding and decoration of all
+the rest of the room have never been touched since Charles I.'s day. The
+ceiling is, however, modern, copied from one at Melbury of date 1602.
+The Sir Joshua Room would probably be more attractive to many people
+than any other in the house; there is here the "Vision of St. Anthony,"
+by Murillo, also a Velasquez, two Teniers, and many portraits by Sir
+Joshua, including those of Charles James Fox, the first Lord Holland,
+Mary, Lady Holland, and Lady Sarah Lennox, whose "Life and Letters" have
+been edited by Lady Ilchester and her son, Lord Stavordale. In the
+Addison or dining room there are several other portraits and more china,
+including the famous Chelsea service presented by the proprietors of the
+Chelsea Company to Dr. Johnson in recognition of his laborious and
+unsuccessful efforts to learn their trade. From here we can pass to the
+library, a long gallery running the whole width of the house, as a
+library should do. Besides ordinary books, the library contains
+priceless treasures, such as a collection of Elzevirs, a collection of
+Spanish literature, a MS. book with the handwritings of Savonarola,
+Petrarch, several autograph letters of Philip II., III., and IV. of
+Spain, and autographs of D. Hume, Byron, Sir D. Wilkie, Moore, Rogers,
+Campbell, Sir W. Scott, Southey, and foreigners of note, as Madame de
+Stael, Cuvier, Buffon, Voltaire, etc.
+
+From the Yellow Drawing-room, in which, among other things, is a curious
+picture representing one eye of Lady Holland, by Watts, the Miniature
+Room is reached: miniature in two senses, for, besides containing an
+assortment of miniatures, it is very small. The miniatures are mostly
+Cosways, Plymers, and Coopers. On January 10, 1871, Holland House caught
+fire, and the chief rooms that suffered were those known as Lady
+Holland's Rooms, on this side. Luckily the fire did not do much damage,
+and all trace of it was speedily effaced.
+
+Holland House is not shown to the public, and few persons have any idea
+of the treasures it contains; to live in such a house must be a liberal
+education. It can hardly be seen at all in summer on account of the
+extent of the grounds of 55 acres stretching around it, and making it a
+country place in the midst of a town. It has the largest private grounds
+of any house in London, not excepting Buckingham Palace, yet from the
+road all that can be seen is a rather dreary field. Oddly enough, there
+is a considerable hill on the west, though no trace of this hill is to
+be found in Kensington Road; it is, however, the same fall that affects
+Holland Park Avenue on the north. Besides the fine elms bordering the
+avenue, there are a variety of other trees in the grounds, among them
+many cedars, still flourishing, though beginning to show the effects of
+the London smoke. Excepting for the Dutch Garden, with its prim, though
+fantastically-designed flower-beds, there is little attempt at formal
+gardening. Here stands the seat used by the poet Rogers, on which is the
+inscription:
+
+    "Here Rogers sat, and here for ever dwell
+    With me those 'Pleasures' which he sang so well."
+
+An ivy-covered arcade leads to the conservatory, and various buildings
+form a picturesque group near; these belonged at one time to the
+stables, now removed. Not far off is the bamboo garden, in a flourishing
+condition, with large clumps of feathery bamboos bravely enduring our
+rough climate; in another part is a succession of terraces, through
+which a stream runs downhill through a number of basins linked by a
+circling channel; the basins are covered with water-lilies, and the
+whole is laid out in imitation of a Japanese garden. Alpine plants are
+specially tended in another part, and masses of rhododendrons grow
+freely in the grounds, giving warmth and shelter. There is nothing stiff
+or conventional to be seen--Nature tended and cared for, but Nature
+herself is allowed to reign, and the result is very satisfactory. There
+are many fascinating peeps between the rows of shrubs or trees of the
+worn red brick of the house, seen all the better for its contrast with
+the deep evergreen of the cedars.
+
+In a field close by Cromwell is said to have discussed his plans with
+Ireton, whose deafness necessitated loud tones, so that the open air,
+where possible listeners could be seen at a distance, was preferable to
+the four walls of a room. In the fields behind Holland House was fought
+a notable duel in 1804 between Lord Camelford, a notorious duellist, and
+Captain Best, R.N. Lord Camelford fired first, but missed his opponent.
+He afterwards fell at Best's shot, and was carried into Little Holland
+House, where he died in three days. The exact spot where the duel was
+fought is now enclosed in the grounds of Oak Lodge, and is marked by a
+stone altar.
+
+To the west of Holland House is Melbury Road, a neighbourhood famous for
+its artistic residents. The houses, mostly of glowing red brick, are
+built in different styles, as if each had been designed to fill its own
+place without reference to its neighbours. A curious Gothic house, with
+a steeple on the north side, was designed by William Burges, R.A., for
+himself. In the house next to it, now the residence of Luke Fildes,
+R.A., King Cetewayo stayed while he was in England. Sir Frederick
+Leighton, P.R.A., lived at No. 2, which has been presented to the
+nation. Little Holland House, otherwise No. 6, Melbury Road, is occupied
+by G. F. Watts, R.A. The name was adopted from the original Little
+Holland House, which stood at the end of Nightingale Lane, now the back
+entrance to Holland Park; this house was pulled down when Melbury Road
+was made.
+
+Melbury Road turns into Addison Road just below the church of St.
+Barnabas, which is of white brick, and has a parapet and four corner
+towers, which give it a distinctive appearance. The interior is
+disappointing, but there is a fine eastern window, divided by a transom,
+and having seven compartments above and below. Quite at the northern end
+of Holland Road is the modern church of St. John the Baptist; the
+interior is all of white stone, and the effect is very good. There is a
+rose window at the west end, and a carved stone chancel screen of great
+height. The church ends in an apse, and has a massive stone reredos set
+with coloured panels representing the saints. All this part of
+Kensington which lies to the west of Addison Road is very modern. In the
+1837 map, St. Barnabas Church, built seven years earlier, and a line of
+houses on the east side of the northern part of Holland Road, are all
+that are marked. Near the continuation of Kensington Road there are a
+few houses, and there is a farm close to the Park.
+
+Curzon House is marked near the Kensington Road, and a large nursery
+garden is at the back of it; and further north, where Addison Road
+bends, there are Addison Cottage and Bindon Villa, and this is all.
+Addison's connection with Holland House of course accounts for the free
+use of his name in this quarter.
+
+Going northward, we come to the district of Shepherd's Bush and the
+Uxbridge Road, known in the section of its course between Notting Hill
+High Street and Uxbridge Road Station as Holland Park Avenue--a fact of
+which probably none but the residents are aware. Above it, Norland Road
+forms the western boundary of the borough. Royal Crescent is marked on
+the maps of the beginning of the nineteenth century as Norland Crescent;
+Addison Road was then Norland Road. Further westward is the square of
+the same name, on the site of old Norland House.
+
+[Illustration: KENSINGTON DISTRICT--SOUTH HALF.
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+Addison Road leads up to St. James's Church, designed by Vulliamy, and
+consecrated in 1845; it has a square tower of considerable height, with
+a pinnacle at each corner. The chancel was added later. St. Gabriel's,
+in Clifton Road, is an offshoot of this church, but, curiously enough,
+it does not come within the parochial boundaries. It was built in 1883.
+Following the road on the north side of the square, we pass the West
+London Tabernacle, a brick building in the late Romanesque style. Close
+by are St. James's Schools.
+
+St. John's Place leads us past Pottery Lane, a reminiscence of the
+potteries once here, round which sprang up a notoriously bad district.
+The brickfields were hard by, and the long, low, red-tiled roofs of the
+brick-sheds face a space of open ground known as Avondale Park. The Park
+stands on a piece of ground formerly known as Adam's Brickfield. It was
+suggested at one time that this should be used for the site of a
+refuse-destroyer, but it was bought instead by the Vestry for the sum of
+£9,200 to be turned into a public park. The late Metropolitan Board of
+Works provided £4,250 towards the sum, and the Metropolitan Public
+Gardens and Open Spaces Association gave £2,000. The laying-out of the
+ground, which covers about 4½ acres, cost £8,000 more, and the Park
+was formally opened June 2, 1892, though it had been informally open to
+the public for more than a year before this date. The most has been made
+of the ground, which includes two large playgrounds, provided with
+swings, ropes, seesaws, etc., for the children of the neighbouring
+schools, who come here to the number of three or four hundred. Just at
+the back of the Park, on the west side, lie St. Clement's Board Schools,
+and on the east St. John's Church Schools. Returning through Pottery
+Lane, we see facing us at the upper end large brick schools covered with
+Virginia creeper, adjacent to a small brick Gothic church. This is the
+church of St. Francis, a Roman Catholic Mission Church, in connection
+with St. Mary of the Angels, in Westmoreland Road. It was built about
+thirty-three years ago by Rev. D. Rawes at his own cost, and contains
+some very beautiful panels on slate by Westlake representing the
+Stations of the Cross, which were the first done on that material in
+England. There is also a painting by the same artist on the pulpit. The
+baptistery, added later, was designed by Bentley, the late architect of
+the new cathedral at Westminster. The schools adjacent are for girls and
+infants, and the boys are accommodated at the buildings in the
+Silchester Road.
+
+Hippodrome Place leads past the north side of the school to Portland
+Road. A great part of the district lying to the east of this, and
+including Clarendon Road, Portobello Road, and Ladbroke Grove, was
+formerly covered by an immense racecourse called the Hippodrome. It
+stretched northward in a great ellipse, and then trended north-west and
+ended up roughly where is now the Triangle, at the west end of St.
+Quintin Avenue. It was used for both flat racing and steeplechasing, and
+the steeplechase course was more than two miles in length. The place was
+very popular, being within easy reach of London, but the ground was
+never very good for the purpose, as it was marshy. The Hippodrome was
+opened in 1837, and Count d'Orsay was one of the stewards; the last race
+took place in 1841. St. John's Church stands on a hill, once a grassy
+mound within the Hippodrome enclosure, which is marked in a contemporary
+map "Hill for pedestrians," apparently a sort of natural grand-stand.
+The Church was consecrated in 1845, four years after the closing of the
+racecourse. The entrance to the racecourse was in what is now Park Road,
+just above Ladbroke Road, near the Norbury Chapel. The district,
+therefore, all dates from the latter half of the nineteenth century; it
+is well laid out, with broad streets and large houses, though north of
+Lansdowne Road the quarter is not so good. It is very difficult to find
+anything interesting to record of this part of Kensington; a
+perambulation there must be, or the borough would be left incompletely
+described, but such a perambulation can only resolve itself into a
+catalogue of churches and schools. Ladbroke Grove goes down the steep
+hill above noticed. St Mark's Church gives its name to the road in which
+it stands: it was consecrated in 1863.
+
+Northward, at the corner of Lancaster Road, stands a fine Wesleyan
+chapel in the Early English style, with quatrefoil and cinquefoil stone
+tracery in the windows. It is built of white brick and has large schools
+below. The foundation stone was laid in 1879 and the church opened May
+20, 1880. Very nearly opposite to it are the large brick buildings of
+the Kensington Public Baths. Between the Lancaster and Walmer Roads we
+come again to the very poor district extending from the Potteries. In
+Fowell Street there is a square, yellow brick Primitive Methodist
+chapel, with a stone stating that it was founded "Aug. 2nd, 1864, by J.
+Fowell, who gave the land." Fowell Street leads into Bomore Road, at the
+corner of which stands Notting Dale Chapel; this is a plain brick
+building founded in 1851. In the other direction, westward, Bomore Road
+takes us past the top of St. Clement's Road, and turning into this we
+pass St. Clement's Church, opened in 1867. It is a plain yellow and red
+brick building, but the walls of the chancel are decorated, and there is
+a pretty east window. The parish contains 12,000 people, and is one of
+the poorest in London, not even excepting the worst of the East End.
+
+Mary Place is at right angles to St. Clement's Road, and in this there
+is a supplementary workhouse. It contains the relief office, large
+casual wards, the able-bodied workhouse, and a Poor Law Dispensary.
+Opposite are large Board Schools; the Roman Catholic Schools in the
+Silchester Road have been already mentioned in connection with the
+Catholic Schools of St. Francis. On the northern side of Silchester Road
+is the Notting Barn Tavern, which stands on the site of the old Notting
+Barns Farm. Beyond Walmer Road, northwards, are a few rows of houses,
+and a Board School, and a great stretch of common reaching to St.
+Quintin Avenue. The backs of the houses in Latimer Road are seen across
+the common on the west; these houses, however, lie without the
+Kensington boundary line. A road called St. Helen's Gardens bounds the
+common on the east, and leads to St. Helen's Church, which is a severely
+plain red-brick building. North of St. Quintin Avenue is another great
+stretch of common, and at its south-eastern corner lies St. Charles's
+Square. The square was named after St. Charles's College, a Roman
+Catholic establishment, which forms an imposing mass at the east side.
+The College was founded by Cardinal Manning. It was humble in its
+origin, beginning in 1863 with a few young boys in a room near the
+church of St. Mary of the Angels, Bayswater. Other houses were taken as
+necessity arose, and in 1872 the numbers were so great that the question
+of building a suitable college arose. There was at first a difficulty
+about obtaining the freehold of the site desired--that on which the
+present building stands--but this was overcome eventually, and the whole
+cost of the College came to about £40,000. It stands in a square of 11
+acres, and was finished in 1874. The building is of red brick with stone
+facings, and is ornamented by figures of saints; it is about 300 feet in
+extent. In the centre is a tower, rising to a height of 140 feet, on
+which are the Papal Tiara and Crossed Keys. A corridor runs nearly the
+length of the building inside. On the laying-out of the recreation
+grounds and gardens between one and two thousand pounds has been spent.
+
+The object of the College is to bring education within the reach of all
+scholars at a moderate cost. The students do not necessarily become
+priests, but enter various professions, and in 1890 it was reckoned
+that no less than 1,200 youths had passed through the curriculum. A
+museum and library are among the rooms. And standing as it does on the
+outskirts of London, with much open ground in the vicinity, the building
+is very favourably situated for its purpose.
+
+Over the garden walls of the College we see the high buildings of the
+Marylebone Infirmary. Further northward are the western gasworks, and
+just beyond them the well-known cemetery of Kensal Green. The principal
+entrance is a great stone gateway of the Doric order with iron gates in
+the Harrow Road. Avenues of young lime-trees, chestnuts, and tall
+Lombardy poplars line the walks, between which a straight central
+roadway leads to the church at the west end. The multitude of tombstones
+within the cemetery is bewildering. On either side of the way are
+immense sepulchres of granite, marble, or stone. Some in the Gothic
+style resemble small chapels; others, again, are in an Egyptian style.
+The church and the long colonnades of the catacombs are built in the
+same way as the gateway. The cemetery contains 77 acres, and the first
+burial took place in 1833. The grave of the founder, with a stone
+inscribed "George Frederick Carden, died 1874, aged 76," lies not far
+from the chapel, with a plain slab at the head.
+
+The roll of those buried here includes many illustrious names: The Duke
+of Sussex, died 1843, and the Princess Sophia, died 1848, both of whom
+we have already met in another part of Kensington; Anne Scott and Sophia
+Lockhart, daughters of Sir W. Scott; his son-in-law, J. G. Lockhart;
+Allan Cunningham, died 1842; Rev. Sydney Smith, died 1845; W. Mackworth
+Praed, 1839; Tom Hood, died 1845; I. K. Brunel, died 1859; Charles
+Kemble, died, 1854; Leigh Hunt, died 1859; W. M. Thackeray, died 1863;
+J. Leech, died 1863; Sir Charles Eastlake, P.R.A., died 1865; Charles
+Babbage, P.R.S., died 1871; Anthony Trollope, died 1882; besides many
+others distinguished in literature, art, or science.
+
+The name Kensal possibly owes its derivation to the same source as
+Kensington, but there is no certainty in the matter.
+
+The Grand Junction Canal runs along the south side of the cemetery, and
+the borough boundary cuts across it at Ladbroke Grove Road. There is a
+Roman Catholic church in Bosworth Road; it is of red brick, with pointed
+windows, and is called Our Lady of the Holy Souls. The mission was
+established here in 1872, and the present building opened in 1882. In
+the interior the arches and pillars are of white stone, and the
+altar-piece is a large coloured panel painting. In Bosworth Road,
+further southward, there is a very small Baptist chapel with plaster
+front. The church of St. Andrew and St. Philip stands to the east in
+Golborne Gardens. It was built in 1869, and is of red brick with stone
+facings in the French Gothic style. In the upper or northern part of
+Mornington Road, on the eastern side, is a large Board School, where
+special instruction is given to blind, or partially blind, children. On
+the opposite side, slightly further up, is Christ Church, a model of
+simplicity, and within it is light, lofty, and well proportioned. It has
+a narthex at the east end. The font is a solid block of red-veined
+Devonshire marble. The church was founded in August, 1880, and
+consecrated May 14, 1881.
+
+In Golborne Road we pass a plaster-fronted brick chapel
+(Congregational). The Portobello Road is of immense length, running
+north-west and south-east. This quarter is not so aristocratic as its
+high-sounding name would lead us to infer. Faulkner gives us the origin
+of the name. "Near the turnpike is Porto Bello Lane, leading to the farm
+so called, which was the property of Mr. A. Adams, the builder, at the
+time that Porto Bello was captured." He adds: "This is one of the most
+rural and pleasant walks in the summer in the vicinity of London." So
+much could not be said now, for in the lower part the road is very
+narrow and is lined with inferior shops. The Porto Bello Farm seems to
+have stood almost exactly on the site of the present St. Joseph's Home
+for the Aged Poor, which is just below the entrance of the Golborne
+Road, and is on the east side. This is a large brick building, in which
+many aged men and women are supported by the contributions collected
+daily by the Sisters. It is a Roman Catholic institution, and was
+founded by a Frenchman in 1861, but the benefits of the charity are not
+confined to Roman Catholics. It was humble in its origin, beginning in a
+private house in Sutherland Avenue. The present building was erected for
+the purpose when the charity increased in size. There is a chapel in
+connection with the building. Exactly opposite is the Franciscan
+Convent, with its appendage, the Elizabeth Home for Girls. The building,
+of brick, looks older than that of St. Joseph's. Behind the convent runs
+St. Lawrence's Road, between which and Ladbroke Grove Road stands the
+church of St. Michael and All Angels, founded in 1870, and consecrated
+the following year. It is of brick, in the Romanesque style, forming a
+contrast to the numerous so-called Gothic churches in the parish.
+
+If we continue southwards, either by Portobello or Ladbroke Grove Roads,
+we pass under the Hammersmith and City Junction Railway, carried
+overhead by bridges. Ladbroke Hall stands south of the bridge in
+Ladbroke Grove, and a large Board School in Portobello Road. A little
+further south in Ladbroke Grove is a branch of the Kensington Public
+Library, opened temporarily in the High Street, January, 1888, and
+established here October, 1891.
+
+In Cornwall Road is the entrance to the Convent of the Poor Clares,
+which is a large brick building, covering, with its grounds, 1¾
+acres, and which was built for the convent purposes in 1859, having been
+founded by Cardinal (then Father) Manning. The nuns, numbering about
+thirty, are vowed to the contemplative life of prayer and manual labour
+in the service of God, but do no teaching or nursing, and there are no
+lay sisters. The next opening on the south side of Cornwall Road is
+Kensington Park Road, in which stands a Presbyterian church, built of
+light brick. On the north side of Cornwall Road is Basing Road, in which
+is a Congregational chapel of white brick. In Talbot Road we see the
+high lantern tower of All Saints' Church, founded in 1852, and
+consecrated 1861. Its tower is supposed to resemble the belfry of
+Bruges, and is 100 feet in height. The mission church of St. Columb's at
+Notting Hill Station is in connection with All Saints', and ministered
+to by the same clergy.
+
+A few yards further on in Talbot Road is the entrance to the Talbot
+Tabernacle. The building stands back from the road, behind iron gates,
+and is faced with blazing red brick, while over the doorways is a
+profusion of ornamental moulding.
+
+The streets lying to the south of Talbot Road require no particular
+comment. At the corner of Archer Street, Kensington Park Road takes a
+sudden south-easterly turn, and below the turn is St. Peter's Church,
+very different from the other churches in the district, being in the
+Italian style. It was consecrated January 7, 1876. The decoration of the
+interior is very elaborate, some of the pillars having gilded capitals.
+In Denbigh Road there is a stuccoed Wesleyan Methodist chapel, dated
+1856. Northward runs Norfolk Terrace, lately merged in Westbourne Grove.
+In it, at the corner of Ledbury Road, stands the Westbourne Grove
+Baptist Chapel, a fine gray stone building with two southern steeple
+towers.
+
+The southern end of Pembridge Road is joined at an angle by Kensington
+Park Road, and at the corner stands Horbury Congregational Chapel,
+founded in August, 1848. It is built of gray stone and stands in a good
+position. Nos. 1 to 15, Clanricarde Gardens, and six shops in Notting
+Hill High Street, belong to the poor of Kensington; they are built on
+land given to the parish by an anonymous benefactor in 1652. This is
+known as Cromwell's gift, but there is not the smallest evidence to
+show that Cromwell was the donor. Lysons mentions the tradition, but
+confesses there is no evidence to support it.
+
+And now we have traversed Kensington from end to end, and in so doing
+have come across many notable men and many fair women. Kensington is
+royal among suburbs on account of its Palace, and its annals include
+history as well as the anecdotes of great men. Yet though old
+associations live in name and tradition, none of the buildings, as at
+present standing, date back further than the older parts of Holland
+House and Kensington Palace, and the greater part are much more modern.
+The zenith of Kensington's popularity was not reached until after the
+Hanoverian Sovereigns sat on the English throne, and this is a mere
+nothing in time compared with that enjoyed by some parts of outer
+London--for instance, Chelsea. That there should be so much to say about
+the district, in spite of its comparative youth, shows how richly it has
+been peopled. Statesmen, men of letters, royalties, court beauties, and
+divines we have met. One of the greatest of our novelists and our
+greatest philosopher were closely connected with Kensington, and the
+tour made around the borough may fitly rival in interest any but those
+taken in the very heart of London.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abbot's Manor, 7, 10, 46
+
+"Adam and Eve," 41
+
+Addison, Joseph, 35, 50, 77
+
+Addison Road, 85
+
+Albert Gate, 12
+
+Albert Hall, 25
+
+Albert Memorial, 66
+
+Alexandra House, 28
+
+Allen Street, 40
+
+Anne, Queen, 56
+
+Aubrey House, 75
+
+
+Bangor, Bishop of, 49
+
+Barker, Christopher, 9
+
+Barracks, The, 14
+
+Blessington, Lady, 26
+
+Boltons, The, 33
+
+Boyle, Richard, 35
+
+Bray, Sir Reginald, 9
+
+Brompton, 4
+
+Brompton Cemetery, 35
+
+Brompton Grove, 16
+
+Brompton Heath, 33
+
+Brompton Park, 19
+
+Brompton Road, 15
+
+Brontë, Charlotte, 52
+
+Brooks, Shirley, 15
+
+Browning, Robert, 54
+
+Brunswick Gardens, 69
+
+Bullingham House, 67, 68
+
+Burghley, Lord, 10
+
+Burleigh, John, _see also_ Burghley, 34
+
+Burlington, Earl of, 73
+
+Burne-Jones, Sir E., 50
+
+
+Camelford, Lord, 84
+
+Campden House, 3, 71
+
+Campden, Viscount, 72
+
+Canning, George, 32
+
+Caroline, Queen, 32
+
+Caroline the Illustrious, 57, 58
+
+Chardin, Sir Charles, 77
+
+Chester, Bishop of, 35
+
+Church Street, 67, 69
+
+Churches:
+  All Saints', Ennismore Gardens, 18
+  All Saints', Notting Hill, 97
+  Carmelite, 67
+  Christ, 95
+  Holy Trinity, Brompton, 16
+  Holy Trinity, Kensington Gore, 28
+  Horbury Chapel, 98
+  New Jerusalem, 70
+  Our Lady of Seven Dolours, 34
+  Our Lady of the Holy Souls, 94
+  Pro-Cathedral, The, 40
+  St. Andrew and St. Philip, 95
+  St. Augustine's, 28
+  St. Barnabas, 85
+  St. Clement's, 91
+  St. Cuthbert's, 38
+  St. Gabriel's, 87
+  St. George's, 75
+  St. Helen's, 91
+  St. James's, 87
+  St. John's, 89
+  St. John the Baptist, 85
+  St. Jude's, 38
+  St. Mark's, 90
+  St. Mary Abbots, 43
+  St. Mary's, 33
+  St. Mathias', 38
+  St. Michael and All Angels', 96
+  St. Paul's, Onslow Square, 29
+  St. Paul's, Vicarage Gate, 69
+  St. Peter's, 98
+  St. Stephen's, Earl's Court, 38
+  St. Stephen's, Gloucester Road, 38
+  Talbot Tabernacle, 97
+
+Clarence, Duke of, 62
+
+Clarkson, 26
+
+Cobbett, William, 43
+
+Colby, Sir T., 53
+
+Cole, Vicat, 74
+
+Coleherne Court, 37
+
+Coleridge, 39
+
+Colman, George, 15
+
+Consumption Hospital, 30
+
+Convent of the Assumption, 49
+
+Convent of the Poor Clares, 97
+
+Cope, Sir Walter, 8, 9, 10, 71, 76
+
+Cornwallis, Sir W., 10
+
+Crabbe, 32
+
+Cranley Gardens, 31
+
+Croker, Crofton, 15
+
+Cromwell, 84, 99
+
+Cromwell Gardens, 21
+
+Cromwell, Henry, 20, 45
+
+Cromwell House, 19, 20
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 20
+
+
+De Vere Gardens, 54
+
+Dickens, 16
+
+Disraeli, 26
+
+Dodington, William, 9
+
+Donaldson Museum, 28
+
+D'Orsay, Count, 26
+
+Downham, Simon, 6, 8
+
+Dukeries, The, 74
+
+
+Earl's Court, 36
+
+Earl's Court Exhibition, 37
+
+Earl's Court Manor, 10
+
+Edwardes Square, 38
+
+Elliot, Lady, 12
+
+Elphinstone, Dr., 53
+
+Ely, Bishop of, 49
+
+Ennismore Gardens, 16
+
+Essex, William, 8
+
+Evelyn, 19
+
+Exhibition, Great, 20
+
+
+Fairfax, General, 76
+
+Finch, Sir Heneage, 55
+
+Florida Tea-Gardens, 32
+
+Flounder's Field, 16
+
+Fowell Street, 90
+
+Fox and Bull, 13
+
+Fox, C. J., 14, 78
+
+Fox, Henry, 78
+
+Fox, Sir Stephen, 78
+
+Franciscan Convent, 96
+
+Free Library, 42
+
+French Embassy, 12
+
+
+Gainsborough, Earl of, 72
+
+George I., 57
+
+Gloucester, Bishop of, 35
+
+Gloucester, Duchess of, 32
+
+Gloucester, Duke of, 72
+
+Gloucester Lodge, 32
+
+Gloucester Road, 31
+
+Gloucester Walk, 74
+
+Gordon, General, 38
+
+Gore House, 26
+
+Gravel Pits, 4, 70
+
+Great Exhibition, 66
+
+Green, J. R., 49
+
+Grenvilles, The, 8
+
+Guizot, 29
+
+
+Hale House, _see_ Cromwell House
+
+Half-way House, 14
+
+Harrington, Earl of, 21
+
+Herrington Road, 28
+
+Hereford House, 38
+
+Hervey, Hon. A. J., 17
+
+Hicks, Sir Baptist, 71
+
+High Street, Kensington, 42, 48
+
+Hippodrome, The, 89
+
+Holland House, 76-84
+
+Holland Lane, 75
+
+Holland Park, 75
+
+Holly Lodge, 74
+
+Home for Crippled Boys, 41
+
+Hood, Tom, 16
+
+Horseman, Robert, 8
+
+Horticultural Gardens, 24
+
+Horticultural Society, 20
+
+Hudson, Mr., 13
+
+Hunt, Leigh, 28, 39
+
+Hunter, John, 37
+
+Hyde, Manor of, 12
+
+
+Ifield Road, 35
+
+Ilchester, Earl of, 78
+
+Imperial Institute, 22
+
+Inchbald, Mrs., 39, 45, 53
+
+
+Jerdan, W., 16
+
+Jerrold, Douglas, 16
+
+Jockey Club, 14
+
+
+Kensal Green Cemetery, 93
+
+Kensington Court, 53
+
+Kensington Gardens, 3, 54
+
+Kensington Gore, 27
+
+Kensington Grammar School, 49
+
+Kensington House, 53
+
+Kensington Manor, 7, 10
+
+Kensington Palace, 3, 54
+
+Kensington Palace Gardens, 70
+
+Kensington Square, 3, 48
+
+Kent, Duke of, 62
+
+Kent House, 14
+
+Kingston, Duchess of, 16
+
+Kingston House, 16
+
+Knightsbridge, 10, 11
+
+Knightsbridge Green, 13
+
+Knotting Barns, _see_ Notting Barns
+
+
+Ladbroke Grove, 90
+
+Lambert, General, 76
+
+Lancaster Lodge, 73
+
+Landor, 27
+
+Latimer, Lord, 10
+
+Liston, John, 15
+
+Little Campden House, 73
+
+Little Chelsea, 33, 35
+
+Little Holland House, 85
+
+Locke, 35
+
+London University, 22
+
+Lowther Lodge, 27
+
+Lytton, Bulwer, 26
+
+
+Macaulay, Lord, 74
+
+Macaulay, Zachary, 26
+
+Maids of Honour, 59
+
+Mall, The, 70
+
+Marochetti, 29
+
+Mary Place, 91
+
+Mary, Queen, 56
+
+Matthews, Charles, 27, 29
+
+Mazarin, Duchess of, 50
+
+Melbury Road, 85
+
+Michael's Grove, 15
+
+Mill, James, 69
+
+Mill, J. S., 49
+
+Millais, Sir J. E., 28
+
+Morland, George, 13
+
+Murchison, Sir R., 35
+
+
+Napoleon, Prince Louis, 27
+
+Natural History Museum, 21
+
+Newton, Sir Isaac, 4, 42, 67
+
+Neyt, Manor of, 11
+
+Noel, Lord, 72
+
+Notting Barns, 7, 9, 10
+
+Notting Hill, 3
+
+
+Observatory Gardens, 74
+
+Onslow Square, 29
+
+Oratory, The, 18
+
+Ovington Square, 16
+
+Oxford, Bishop of, 49
+
+Oxford, Earls of, 6
+
+
+Palace Gate, 54
+
+Pater, Walter, 39
+
+Paulet, Sir William, 10
+
+Pelham Crescent, 29
+
+Penn, William, 77
+
+Phillimore Terrace, 40
+
+Pitt, Stephen, 73
+
+Pitt Street, 69
+
+Portobello Road, 95
+
+Portsmouth, Duchess of, 53
+
+Pottery Lane, 87
+
+Princes Skating Club, 14
+
+Priory Grove, 33
+
+
+Queen's Gate, 28
+
+
+Redcliffe Gardens, 35
+
+Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 13
+
+Rich, Sir Henry, 10, 76
+
+Richmond, Countess of, 9
+
+Romilly, Sir S., 26
+
+Royal College of Music, 28
+
+Royal College of Science, 22
+
+Royal Crescent, 86
+
+Rutland Gate, 14
+
+
+St. Charles's College, 92
+
+St. Charles's Square, 92
+
+St. George's Union, 34
+
+St. Joseph's Home, 96
+
+Scarsdale House, 41
+
+Schools, Free, 42
+
+Serpentine, The, 58
+
+Shaftesbury, Earl of, 35
+
+Sheffield House, 74
+
+Sheffield Terrace, 74
+
+Sheridan, 41
+
+Shower, Sir Bartholomew, 35
+
+Sophia, Princess, 64
+
+South Kensington Museum, 19, 22
+
+South, Sir James, 74
+
+Stair, Lord, 17
+
+State-rooms, 61
+
+Strathnairn, Statue of, 13
+
+
+Talleyrand, 49
+
+Tattersall, 14
+
+Technical Institute, City and Guilds, 28
+
+Thackeray, 3, 29, 50
+
+Thistle Grove Lane, 33
+
+Town Hall, The, 42
+
+
+Uxbridge Road, 86
+
+
+Vere, Aubrey de, 5
+
+Vestris, Madame, 27
+
+Vicarage Gate, 69
+
+Victoria and Albert Museum, _see_ South Kensington
+
+Victoria, Queen, 62, 63
+
+Victoria Road, 38
+
+
+Walwyn, William, 7
+
+Ward, Sir E., 35
+
+Warren, Sir G., 17
+
+Warwick, Countess of, 77
+
+Warwick, First Earl of, 10
+
+Watts, G. F., 51, 79
+
+Wellesley, Marquess, 17
+
+West Town, 8, 10
+
+Wilberforce, W., 25
+
+Wilkes, John, 27
+
+Wilkie, Sir D., 40
+
+William III., 55
+
+Winchester, Marquis of, 8
+
+Woolsthorpe House, 42
+
+Wright's Lane, 41
+
+
+Yates, Frederick, 15
+
+York, Frederick, Duke of, 62
+
+Young Street, 3
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: KENSINGTON DISTRICT--NORTH HALF.
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Kensington District, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT ***
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+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Kensington District, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Kensington District
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Editor: Walter Besant
+
+Release Date: May 30, 2007 [EBook #21643]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 112px;">
+<img src="images/spine.jpg" width="112" height="600" alt="Spine" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 430px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="430" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" />
+</div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h1>THE FASCINATION<br />
+OF LONDON<br />
+<br />
+THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT</h1>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3><i>IN THIS SERIES.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="center">Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net each.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>THE STRAND DISTRICT.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>WESTMINSTER.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>CHELSEA.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>KENSINGTON.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">By <span class="smcap">Sir Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/illus_001.png" width="800" height="546" alt="HOLLAND HOUSE." title="" />
+<span class="caption"><i>Herbert Railton</i>
+<br />
+HOLLAND HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 370px;">
+<img src="images/illus_002.png" width="370" height="600" alt="The Fascination of London
+
+KENSINGTON
+
+BY G. E. MITTON" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>The Fascination of
+London</h2>
+
+<h1>KENSINGTON</h1>
+
+<p class="center">BY<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">G. E. MITTON</span><br />
+<br />
+EDITED BY<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">SIR WALTER BESANT</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">LONDON<br />
+ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK<br />
+1903</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFATORY_NOTE" id="PREFATORY_NOTE"></a>PREFATORY NOTE</h2>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p>
+<p>A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past&mdash;this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.</p>
+
+<p>As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."</p>
+
+<p>Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey should
+contain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by different
+persons, so that the history of each parish should be complete in
+itself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one in
+which he took the keenest interest. Enough has been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> done of this
+section to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in the
+meantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of the
+districts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to
+the local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the
+interest and the history of London lie in these street associations.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London&mdash;that is to say, the continuity of her past history with
+the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: right;">
+G. E. M.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="KENSINGTON" id="KENSINGTON"></a>KENSINGTON</h2>
+
+
+<p>When people speak of Kensington they generally mean a very small area
+lying north and south of the High Street; to this some might add South
+Kensington, the district bordering on the Cromwell and Brompton Roads,
+and possibly a few would remember to mention West Kensington as a
+far-away place, where there is an entrance to the Earl's Court
+Exhibition. But Kensington as a borough is both more and less than the
+above. It does not include all West Kensington, nor even the whole of
+Kensington Gardens, but it stretches up to Kensal Green on the north,
+taking in the cemetery, which is its extreme northerly limit.</p>
+
+<p>If we draw a somewhat wavering line from the west side of the cemetery,
+leaving outside the Roman Catholic cemetery, and continue from here to
+Uxbridge Road Station, thence to Addison Road Station, and thence again
+through West Brompton to Chelsea Station, we shall have traced roughly
+the western boundary of the borough. It covers an immense area, and it
+begins and ends in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> cemetery, for at the south-western corner is the
+West London, locally known as the Brompton, Cemetery. In shape the
+borough is strikingly like a man's leg and foot in a top-boot. The
+western line already traced is the back of the leg, the Brompton
+Cemetery is the heel, the sole extends from here up Fulham Road and
+Walton Street, and ends at Hooper's Court, west of Sloane Street. This,
+it is true, makes a very much more pointed toe than is usual in a man's
+boot, for the line turns back immediately down the Brompton Road. It
+cuts across the back of Brompton Square and the Oratory, runs along
+Imperial Institute Road, and up Queen's Gate to Kensington Gore. Thence
+it goes westward to the Broad Walk, and follows it northward to the
+Bayswater Road. Thus we leave outside Kensington those essentially
+Kensington buildings the Imperial Institute and Albert Hall, and nearly
+all of Kensington Gardens. But we shall not omit an account of these
+places in our perambulation, which is guided by sense-limits rather than
+by arbitrary lines.</p>
+
+<p>The part left outside the borough, which is of Kensington, but not in
+it, has belonged from time immemorial to Westminster (see same series,
+<i>Westminster</i>, p. 2).</p>
+
+<p>If we continue the boundary-line we find it after the Bayswater Road
+very irregular, travers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>ing Ossington Street, Chepstow Place, a bit of
+Westbourne Grove, Ledbury Road, St. Luke's Road, and then curving round
+on the south side of the canal for some distance before crossing it at
+Ladbroke Grove, and continuing in the Harrow Road to the western end of
+the cemetery from whence we started.</p>
+
+<p>The borough is surrounded on the west, south, and east respectively by
+Hammersmith, Chelsea, and Paddington, and the above boundaries, roughly
+given as they are, will probably be detailed enough for the purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The heart and core of Kensington is the district gathered around
+Kensington Square; this is the most redolent of interesting memories,
+from the days when the maids of honour lived in it to the present time,
+and in itself has furnished material for many a book. Close by in Young
+Street lived Thackeray, and the Square figures many times in his works.
+Further northward the Palace and Gardens are closely associated with the
+lives of our kings, from William III. onward. Northward above Notting
+Hill is a very poor district, poor enough to rival many an East-End
+parish. Associations cluster around Campden and Little Campden Houses,
+and the still existing Holland House, where gathered many who were
+notable for ability as well as high birth. To Campden House Queen Anne,
+then Princess, brought her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> sickly little son as to a country house at
+the "Gravel Pits," but the child never lived to inherit the throne. Not
+far off lived Sir Isaac Newton, the greatest philosopher the world has
+ever known, who also came to seek health in the fresh air of Kensington.</p>
+
+<p>The southern part of the borough is comparatively new. Within the last
+sixty years long lines of houses have sprung up, concealing beneath
+unpromising exteriors, such as only London houses can show, comfort
+enough and to spare. This is a favourite residential quarter, though we
+now consider it in, not "conveniently near," town. Snipe were shot in
+the marshes of Brompton, and nursery gardens spread themselves over the
+area now devoted to the museums and institute. It is rather interesting
+to read the summary of John Timbs, F.S.A., writing so late as 1867:
+"Kensington, a mile and a half west of Hyde Park Corner, contains the
+hamlets of Brompton, Earl's Court, the Gravel Pits, and part of Little
+Chelsea, now West Brompton, but the Royal Palace and about twenty other
+houses north of the road are in the parish of St. Margaret's,
+Westminster." He adds that Brompton has long been frequented by invalids
+on account of its genial air. Faulkner, the local historian of all
+South-West London, speaks of the "delightful fruit-gardens of Brompton
+and Earl's Court."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The origin of the name Kensington is obscure. In Domesday Book it is
+called Chenesitum, and in other ancient records Kenesitune and
+Kensintune, on which Lysons comments: "Cheneesi was a proper name. A
+person of that name held the Manor of Huish in Somersetshire in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor." This is apparently entirely without
+foundation. Other writers have attempted to connect the name with
+Kings-town, with equal ill-success. The true derivation seems to be from
+the Saxon tribe of the Kensings or Kemsings, whose name also remains in
+the little village of Kemsing in Kent.</p>
+
+
+<h3>HISTORY.</h3>
+
+<p>From Domesday Book we learn that the Manor of Kensington had belonged to
+a certain Edward or Edwin, a thane, during the reign of Edward the
+Confessor. It was granted by William I. to Geoffrey, Bishop of
+Coutances, under whom it was held by Alberic or Aubrey de Ver or Vere.
+The Bishop died in 1093, and Aubrey then held it directly from the
+Crown.</p>
+
+<p>Aubrey's son Godefrid or Geoffrey, being under obligations to the Abbot
+of Abingdon, persuaded his father to grant a strip of Kensington to the
+Abbot. This was done with the consent of the next heir. The strip thus
+granted became a subordinate manor; it is described as containing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> "2
+hides and a virgate" of land, or about 270 acres. This estate was cut
+right out of the original manor, and formed a detached piece or island
+lying within it.</p>
+
+<p>The second Aubrey de Vere was made Great Chamberlain of England by King
+Henry I. This office was made hereditary. The third Aubrey was created
+Earl of Oxford by Queen Matilda, a purely honorary title, as he held no
+possessions in Oxfordshire. The third Earl, Robert, was one of the
+guardians of the Magna Charta. The fifth of the same name granted lands,
+in 1284, to one Simon Downham, chaplain, and his heirs, at a rent of one
+penny. This formed another manor in Kensington. This Robert and the
+three succeeding Earls held high commands. The ninth Earl was one of the
+favourites of Richard II., under whom he held many offices. He was made
+Knight of the Garter, Marquis of Dublin (the first Marquis created in
+England), and later on Duke of Ireland. His honours were forfeited at
+Richard's fall. However, as he died without issue, this can have been no
+great punishment. Eventually his uncle Aubrey was restored by Act of
+Parliament to the earldom, and became the tenth Earl. Kensington had,
+however, been settled on the widowed Duchess of Ireland, and at her
+death in 1411 it went to the King. By a special gift in 1420 it was
+restored to the twelfth Earl. In 1462<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> he was beheaded by King Edward
+IV., and his eldest son with him. The thirteenth Earl was restored to
+the family honours and estates under King Henry VII., but he was forced
+to part with "Knotting Barnes or Knotting barnes, sometimes written
+Notting or Nutting barns." This is said to have been more valuable than
+the original manor itself. It formed the third subordinate manor in
+Kensington. The thirteenth Earl was succeeded by his nephew, who died
+young. The titles went to a collateral branch, and the Manor of
+Kensington was settled on the two widowed Countesses, and later upon
+three sisters, co-heiresses of the fourteenth Earl.</p>
+
+<p>We have now to trace the histories of the secondary manors after their
+severance from the main estate. The Abbot's manor still survives in the
+name of St. Mary Abbots Church. About 1260 it was discovered that Aubrey
+de Vere had not obtained the consent of the Archbishop of Canterbury or
+the Bishop of London before granting the manor to the Abbot. Thereupon a
+great dispute arose as to the Abbot's rights over the land in question,
+and it was finally decided that the Abbot was to retain half the great
+tithes, but that the vicarage was to be in the gift of the Bishop of
+London. The Abbot's manor was leased to William Walwyn in the beginning
+of the sixteenth century. It afterwards was held by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> Grenvilles, who
+had obtained the reversion. In 1564 the tithes and demesne lands were
+separated from the manor and rectory, which were still held by the
+Grenvilles. The tithes passed through the hands of many people in
+succession, as did also the manor. In 1595 one Robert Horseman was the
+lessee under the Crown. The Queen sold the estate to Walter (afterwards
+Sir Walter) Cope, and a special agreement was made by which Robert
+Horseman still retained his right to live in the manor house. This is
+important, as it led to the foundation of Holland House by Cope, who had
+no suitable residence as lord of the manor.</p>
+
+<p>West Town, created out of lands known as the Groves, was granted by the
+fifth Earl, as we have seen, to his chaplain Simon Downham. This grant
+is described by Mr. Loftie thus: "It appears to have been that piece of
+land which was intercepted between the Abbot's manor and the western
+border of the parish, and would answer to Addison Road and the land on
+either side of it." Robins, in his "History of Paddington," mentions an
+inquisition taken in 1481, in which "The Groves, formerly only three
+fields, had extended themselves out of Kensington into Brompton,
+Chelsea, Tybourn, and Westbourne."</p>
+
+<p>The manor passed later to William Essex. It was bought from him in 1570
+by the Marquis of Winchester, Lord High Treasurer of England.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> He sold
+it to William Dodington, who resold it to Christopher Barker, printer to
+Queen Elizabeth, who was responsible for the "Breeches" Bible. It was
+bought from him by Walter Cope for &pound;1,300.</p>
+
+<p>Knotting Barnes was sold by the thirteenth Earl, whose fortunes had been
+impoverished by adhesion to the House of Lancaster. It was bought by Sir
+Reginald Bray, who sold it to the Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond,
+mother of King Henry VII. This manor seems to have included lands lying
+without the precincts of Kensington, for in an indenture entered into by
+the Lady and the Abbot of Westminster in regard to the disposal of her
+property we find mentioned "lands and tenements in Willesden, Padyngton,
+Westburn, and Kensington, in the countie of Midd., which maners, lands,
+and tenements the said Princes late purchased of Sir Reynolds Bray
+knight." The Countess left the greater part of her property to the Abbey
+at Westminster, and part to the two Universities at Oxford and
+Cambridge. On the spoliation of the monasteries, King Henry VIII. became
+possessed of the Westminster property; he took up the lease, granting
+the lessee, Robert White, other lands in exchange, and added it to the
+hunting-ground he purposed forming on the north and west of London. At
+his death King Edward VI. inherited it, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> leased it to Sir William
+Paulet. In 1587 it was held by Lord Burghley. In 1599 it was sold to
+Walter Cope.</p>
+
+<p>Earl's Court or Kensington Manor we traced to the three sisters of the
+last Earl. One of these died childless, the other two married
+respectively John Nevill, Lord Latimer; and Sir Anthony Wingfield.
+Family arrangements were made to prevent the division of the estate,
+which passed to Lucy Nevill, Lord Latimer's third daughter. She married
+Sir W. Cornwallis, and left one daughter, Anne, who married Archibald,
+Earl of Argyll, who joined with her in selling the manor to Sir Walter
+Cope in 1609. Sir Walter Cope had thus held at one time or another the
+whole of Kensington. He now possessed Earl's Court, West Town, and
+Abbot's Manor, having sold Notting Barns some time before. His daughter
+and heiress married Sir Henry Rich, younger son of the first Earl of
+Warwick. Further details are given in the account of Holland House (p.
+<a href="#Page_76">76</a>).</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Perambulation.</span>&mdash;We will begin at the extreme easterly point of the
+borough, the toe of the boot which the general outline resembles. We are
+here in Knightsbridge. The derivation of this word has been much
+disputed. Many old writers, including Faulkner, have identified it with
+Kingsbridge&mdash;that is to say, the bridge over the Westbourne in the
+King's high-road. The Westbourne<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> formed the boundary of Chelsea, and
+flowed across the road opposite Albert Gate. The real King's bridge,
+however, was not here, but further eastward over the Tyburn, and as far
+back as Henry I.'s reign it is referred to as Cnightebriga. Another
+derivation for Knightsbridge is therefore necessary. The old topographer
+Norden writes: "Kingsbridge, commonly called Stone bridge, near Hyde
+Park Corner, where I wish no true man to walk too late without good
+guard, as did Sir H. Knyvett, Kt., who valiantly defended himself, being
+assaulted, and slew the master-thief with his own hands." This, of
+course, has reference to the more westerly bridge mentioned above, but
+it seems to have served as a suggestion to later topographers, who have
+founded upon it the tradition that two knights on their way to Fulham to
+be blessed by the Bishop of London quarrelled and fought at the
+Westbourne Bridge, and killed each other, and hence gave rise to the
+name. This story may be dismissed as entirely baseless; the real
+explanation is much less romantic. The word is probably connected with
+the Manor of Neyt, which was adjacent to Westminster, and as
+pronunciation rather than orthography was relied upon in early days,
+this seems much the most likely explanation. Lysons says: "Adjoining to
+Knightsbridge were two other ancient manors called Neyt and Hyde." We
+still have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> the Hyde in Hyde Park, and Neyt is thus identified with
+Knightsbridge.</p>
+
+<p>Until the middle of the nineteenth century Knightsbridge was an outlying
+hamlet. People started from Hyde Park Corner in bands for mutual
+protection at regular intervals, and a bell was rung to warn pedestrians
+when the party was about to start. In 1778, when Lady Elliot, after the
+death of her husband, Sir Gilbert, came to Knightsbridge for fresh air,
+she found it as "quiet as Teviotdale." About forty years before this the
+Bristol mail was robbed by a man on foot near Knightsbridge. The place
+has also been the scene of many riots. In 1556, at the time of Wyatt's
+insurrection, the rebel and his followers arrived at the hamlet at
+nightfall, and stayed there all night before advancing on London. As
+already explained, the Borough of Kensington does not include
+Knightsbridge, but only touches it, and the part we are now in belongs
+to Westminster.</p>
+
+<p>The Albert Gate leading into the park was erected in 1844-46, and was,
+of course, called after Prince Albert. The stags on the piers were
+modelled after prints by Bartolozzi, and were first set up at the
+Ranger's Lodge in the Green Park. Part of the foundations of the old
+bridge outside were unearthed at the building of the gate, and, besides
+this bridge, there was another within the park. The French Embassy,
+recently enlarged,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> stands on the east side of the gate&mdash;the house
+formerly belonged to Mr. Hudson, the "railway king"&mdash;and to the west are
+several large buildings, a bank, Hyde Park Court, etc., succeeded by a
+row of houses. Here originally stood a famous old tavern, the Fox and
+Bull, said to have been founded in the time of Queen Elizabeth; if so,
+it must have retained its popularity uncommonly long, for it was noted
+for its gay company in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. It
+is referred to in the <i>Tatler</i> (No. 259), and was visited by Sir Joshua
+Reynolds and George Morland, the former of whom painted the sign, which
+hung until 1807. It is said that the Elizabethan house had wonderfully
+carved ceilings and immense fire-dogs, still in use in 1799. The inn was
+later the receiving office of the Royal Humane Society, and to it was
+brought the body of Shelley's wife after she had drowned herself in the
+Serpentine.</p>
+
+<p>In the open space opposite is an equestrian statue of Hugh Rose&mdash;Lord
+Strathnairn&mdash;by Onslow Ford, R.A. Close by is a little triangular strip
+of green, which goes by the dignified name of Knightsbridge Green. It
+has a dismal reminiscence, having been a burial-pit for those who died
+of the plague. The last maypole was on the green in 1800, and the
+pound-house remained until 1835.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The entrance to Tattersall's overlooks the green. This famous horse-mart
+was founded by Richard Tattersall, who had been stud-groom to the last
+Duke of Kingston. He started a horse market in 1766 at Hyde Park Corner,
+and his son carried it on after him. Rooms were fitted up at the market
+for the use of the Jockey Club, which held its meetings there for many
+years. Charles James Fox was one of the most regular patrons of
+Tattersall's sales. The establishment was moved to its present position
+in 1864.</p>
+
+<p>The cavalry barracks on the north side of Knightsbridge boast of having
+the largest amount of cubic feet of air per horse of any stables in
+London.</p>
+
+<p>An old inn called Half-way House stood some distance beyond the barracks
+in the middle of the roadway until well on into the nineteenth century,
+and proved a great impediment to traffic. On the south side of the road,
+eastward of Rutland Gate, is Kent House, which recalls by its name the
+fact that the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, once lived here.
+Not far off is Princes Skating Club, one of the most popular and
+expensive of its kind in London. Rutland Gate takes its name from a
+mansion of the Dukes of Rutland, which stood on the same site. The
+neighbourhood is a good residential one, and the houses bordering the
+roads have the advantage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> of looking out over the Gardens. There is
+nothing else requiring comment until we reach the Albert Hall, so,
+leaving this part for a time, we return to the Brompton Road. This road
+was known up to 1856 as the Fulham Road, though a long row of houses on
+the north side had been called Brompton Row much earlier.</p>
+
+<p>Brompton signifies Broom Town, carrying suggestions of a wide and heathy
+common. Brompton Square, a very quiet little place, a cul-de-sac, which
+has also the great recommendation that no "street music" is allowed
+within it, can boast of having had some distinguished residents. At No.
+22, George Colman, junior, the dramatist, a witty and genial talker,
+whose society was much sought after, lived for the ten years previous to
+his death in 1836. The same house was in 1860 taken by Shirley Brooks,
+editor of <i>Punch</i>. The list of former residents also includes the names
+of John Liston, comedian, No. 40, and Frederick Yates, the actor, No.
+57.</p>
+
+<p>The associations of all of this district have been preserved by Crofton
+Croker in his "Walk from London to Fulham," but his work suffers from
+being too minute; names which are now as dead as their owners are
+recorded, and the most trivial points noted. Opposite Brompton Square
+there was once a street called Michael's Grove, after its builder,
+Michael Novosielski, architect of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> the Royal Italian Opera House. In
+1835 Douglas Jerrold, critic and dramatist, lived here, and whilst here
+was visited by Dickens. Ovington Square covers the ground where once
+stood Brompton Grove, where several well-known people had houses; among
+them was the editor (William Jerdan) of the <i>Literary Gazette</i>, who was
+visited by many literary men, and who held those informal conversation
+parties, so popular in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries,
+which must have been very delightful. Tom Hood was among the guests on
+many occasions. Before being Brompton Grove, this part of the district
+had been known as Flounder's Field, but why, tradition does not say.</p>
+
+<p>The next opening on the north side is an avenue of young lime-trees
+leading to Holy Trinity Church, the parish church of Brompton. It was
+opened in 1829, and the exterior is as devoid of beauty as the date
+would lead one to suppose. There are about 1,800 seats, and 700 are
+free. The burial-ground behind the church is about 4&frac12; acres in
+extent, and was consecrated at the same time as the church. Croker
+mentions that it was once a flower-garden. Northward are Ennismore
+Gardens, named after the secondary title of the Earl of Listowel, who
+lives in Kingston House. The house recalls the notorious Duchess of
+Kingston, who occupied it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> for some time. The Duchess, who began life as
+Elizabeth Chudleigh, must have had strong personal attractions. She was
+appointed maid of honour to Augusta, Princess of Wales, and after
+several love-affairs was married secretly to the Hon. Augustus John
+Hervey, brother of the Earl of Bristol. She continued to be a maid of
+honour after this event, which remained a profound secret. Her husband
+was a lieutenant in the navy, and on his return from his long absences
+the couple quarrelled violently. It was not, however, until sixteen
+years later that Mrs. Hervey began a connection with the Duke of
+Kingston, which ended in a form of marriage. It was then that she
+assumed the title, and caused Kingston House to be built for her
+residence; fifteen years later her real husband succeeded to the title
+of Earl of Bristol, and she was brought up to answer to the charge of
+bigamy, on which she was proved guilty, but with extenuating
+circumstances, and she seems to have got off scot-free. She afterwards
+went abroad, and died in Paris in 1788, aged sixty-eight, after a life
+of gaiety and dissipation. From the very beginning her behaviour seems
+to have been scandalous, and she richly merited the epithet always
+prefixed to her name. Sir George Warren and Lord Stair subsequently
+occupied the house, and later the Marquis Wellesley, elder brother of
+the famous Duke<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> of Wellington. Intermediately it was occupied by the
+Listowel family, to whom the freehold belongs.</p>
+
+<p>All Saints' Church in Ennismore Gardens was built by Vulliamy, and is in
+rather a striking Lombardian style, refreshing after the meaningless
+"Gothic" of so many parish churches.</p>
+
+<p>The Oratory of St. Philip Neri, near Brompton Church, is surmounted by a
+great dome, on the summit of which is a golden cross. It is the
+successor of a temporary oratory opened in 1854, and the present church
+was opened thirty years later by Cardinal Manning. The oratory is built
+of white stone, and the entrance is under a great portico. The style
+followed throughout is that of the Renaissance, and all the fittings and
+furniture are costly and beautifully finished, so that the whole
+interior has an appearance of richness and elegance. A nave of immense
+height and 51 feet in width is supported by pillars of Devonshire
+marble, and there are many well-furnished chapels in the side aisles.
+The floor of the sanctuary is of inlaid wood, and the stalls are after a
+Renaissance Viennese model, and are inlaid with ivory; both of these
+fittings were the gift of Anne, Duchess of Argyll. The central picture
+is by Father Philpin de Rivi&egrave;re, of the London Oratory, and it is
+surmounted by onyx panels in gilt frames. The two angels on each side of
+a cartouche are of Italian workmanship,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> and were given by the late Sir
+Edgar Boehm. The oratory is famous for its music, and the crowds that
+gather here are by no means entirely of the Roman Catholic persuasion.
+Near the church-house is a statue of Cardinal Newman.</p>
+
+<p>Not far westward the new buildings of the South Kensington Museum are
+rapidly rising. The laying of their foundation-stone was one of the last
+public acts of Queen Victoria. Until these buildings were begun there
+was a picturesque old house standing within the enclosure marked out for
+their site, and some people imagined this was Cromwell House, which gave
+its name to so many streets in the neighbourhood; this was, however, a
+mistake. Cromwell House was further westward, near where the present
+Queen's Gate is, and the site is now covered by the gardens of the
+Natural History Museum.</p>
+
+<p>All that great space lying between Queen's Gate and Exhibition Road, and
+bounded north and south by Kensington Gore and the Cromwell Road, has
+seen many changes. At first it was Brompton Park, a splendid estate,
+which for some time belonged to the Percevals, ancestors of the Earls of
+Egmont. A large part of it was cut off in 1675 to form a nursery garden,
+the first of its kind in England, which naturally attracted much
+attention, and formed a good strolling-ground for the idlers who came
+out from town. Evelyn<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> mentions this garden in his diary at some length,
+and evidently admired it very much. It was succeeded by the gardens of
+the Horticultural Society, and the Imperial Institute now stands on the
+site. The Great Exhibition of 1851 (see p. <a href="#Page_66">66</a>) was followed by another
+in 1862, which was not nearly so successful, and this was held on the
+ground now occupied by the Natural History Museum; it in turn was
+followed by smaller exhibitions held in the Horticultural Society's
+grounds.</p>
+
+<p>In an old map we see Hale or Cromwell House standing, as above
+indicated, about the western end of the Museum gardens. Lysons gives
+little credence to the story of its having been the residence of the
+great Protector. He says that during Cromwell's time, and for many years
+afterwards, it was the residence of the Methwold family, and adds: "If
+there were any grounds for the tradition, it may be that Henry Cromwell
+occupied it before he went out to Ireland the second time." This seems a
+likely solution, for it is improbable that a name should have impressed
+itself so persistently upon a district without some connection, and as
+Henry Cromwell was married in Kensington parish church, there is nothing
+improbable in the fact of his having lived in the parish. Faulkner
+follows Lysons, and adds a detailed description of the house. He says:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Over the mantelpiece there is a recess formed by the curve of the
+chimney, in which it is said that the Protector used to conceal
+himself when he visited the house, but why his Highness chose this
+place for concealment the tradition has not condescended to inform
+us."</p></div>
+
+<p>In Faulkner's time the Earl of Harrington, who had come into possession
+of the park estate by his marriage with its heiress, owned Cromwell
+House; his name is preserved in Harrington Road close by. When the Manor
+of Earl's Court was sold to Sir Walter Cope in 1609, Hale House, as it
+was then called, and the 30 acres belonging to it, had been especially
+excepted. In the eighteenth century the place was turned into a
+tea-garden, and was well patronized, but never attained the celebrity of
+Vauxhall or Ranelagh, and later was eclipsed altogether by Florida
+Gardens further westward (see p. <a href="#Page_32">32</a>). The house was taken down in 1853.</p>
+
+<p>The Natural History Museum is a branch of the British Museum, and,
+though commonly called the South Kensington Museum, has no claim at all
+to that title. The architect was A. Waterhouse, and the building rather
+suggests a child's erection from a box of many coloured bricks. The
+material is yellow terra-cotta with gray bands, and the ground-plan is
+simple enough, consisting of a central hall and long straight galleries
+running from it east and west. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> mineralogical, botanical,
+zoological, and geological collections are to be found here in
+conformity with a resolution passed by the trustees of the British
+Museum in 1860, though the building was not finished until twenty years
+later. The collections are most popular, especially that of birds and
+their nests in their natural surroundings; and as the Museum is open
+free, it is well patronized, especially on wet Sunday afternoons. The
+South Kensington Museum, that part of it already standing on the east
+side of Exhibition Road, is the outcome of the Great Exhibition, and
+began with a collection at Marlborough House. The first erection was a
+hideous temporary structure of iron, which speedily became known as the
+"Brompton Boilers," and this was handed over to the Science and Art
+Department. In 1868 this building was taken down, and some of the
+materials were used for the branch museum at Bethnal Green.</p>
+
+<p>The buildings have now spread and are spreading over so much ground that
+it is a matter of difficulty to enumerate them all. The elaborate
+terra-cotta building facing Exhibition Road is the Royal College of
+Science, under the control of the Board of Education, for the Museum is
+quite as much for purposes of technical education as for mere
+sightseeing. Behind this lie the older parts of the Museum, galleries,
+etc., which are so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> much hidden away that it is difficult to get a
+glimpse of them at all. Across the road, behind the Natural History
+Museum, are the Southern Galleries, containing various models of
+machinery actually working; northward of this, more red brick and
+scaffolding proclaim an extension, which will face the Imperial
+Institute Road, and parts have even run across the roads in both
+directions north and westward. The whole is known officially as the
+Victoria and Albert Museum, but generally goes by the name of the South
+Kensington Museum. The galleries and library are well worth a visit, and
+official catalogues can be had at the entrance.</p>
+
+<p>From an architectural point of view, the Imperial Institute is much more
+satisfactory than either of the above. It is of gray stone, with a high
+tower called the Queen's Tower, rising to a height of 280 feet; in this
+is a peal of bells, ten in number, called after members of the royal
+family, and presented by an Australian lady. The Institute was the
+national memorial for Queen Victoria's Jubilee, and was designed to
+embody the colonial or Imperial idea by the collection of the native
+products of the various colonies, but it has not been nearly so
+successful as its fine idea entitled it to be. It was also formed into a
+club for Fellows on a payment of a small subscription, but was never
+very warmly supported.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> It is now partly converted to other uses. The
+London University occupies the main entrance, great hall, central block,
+and east wings (except the basement). There are located here the Senate
+and Council rooms, Vice-Chancellor's rooms, Board-rooms, convocation
+halls and offices, besides the rooms of the Principal, Registrars, and
+other University officers. At the Institute are also the physiological
+theatre and laboratories for special advanced lectures and research. The
+rest of the building is now the property of the Board of Trade, under
+whom the real Imperial Institute occupies the west wing and certain
+other parts of the building.</p>
+
+<p>The Horticultural Gardens, which the Imperial Institute superseded, were
+taken by the Society in 1861, in addition to its then existing gardens
+at Chiswick. They were laid out in a very artificial and formal style,
+and were mocked in a contemporary article in the <i>Quarterly Review</i>: "So
+the brave old trees which skirted the paddock of Gore House were felled,
+little ramps were raised, and little slopes sliced off with a fiddling
+nicety of touch which would have delighted the imperial grandeur of the
+summer palace, and the tiny declivities thus manufactured were tortured
+into curvilinear patterns, where sea-sand, chopped coal, and powdered
+bricks atoned for the absence of flower or shrub." Every vestige of this
+has, of course, now vanished,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> and a new road has been driven past the
+front of the Institute.</p>
+
+<p>The Albert Hall was opened by Queen Victoria in 1871, and, like the
+other buildings already mentioned, is closely associated with the
+earlier half of her reign. The idea was due to Prince Albert, who wished
+to have a large hall for musical and oratorical performances. It is in
+the form of a gigantic ellipse covered by a dome, and the external walls
+are decorated by a frieze. The effect is hardly commendable, and the
+whole has been compared to a huge bandbox. However, it answers the
+purpose for which it was designed, having good acoustic properties, and
+its concerts, especially the cheap ones on Sunday afternoons, are always
+well attended. The organ is worked by steam, and is one of the largest
+in the world, having close on 9,000 pipes. The hall stands on the site
+of Gore House, in its time a rendezvous for all the men and women of
+intellect and brilliancy in England. It was occupied by Wilberforce from
+1808 to 1821. He came to it after his illness at Clapham, which had made
+him feel the necessity of moving nearer to London, that he might
+discharge his Parliamentary duties more easily. His Bill for the
+Abolition of Slavery had become law shortly before, and he was at the
+time a popular idol. His house was thronged with visitors, among whom
+were his associates,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> Clarkson, Zachary Macaulay, and Romilly. What
+charmed him most in his new residence was the garden "full of lilacs,
+laburnum, nightingales, and swallows." He writes:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"We are just one mile from the turnpike at Hyde Park Corner, having
+about 3 acres of pleasure-ground around our house, or rather behind
+it, and several old trees, walnut and mulberry, of thick foliage. I
+can sit and read under their shade with as much admiration of the
+beauties of nature as if I were 200 miles from the great city."</p></div>
+
+<p>In 1836 the clever and popular Lady Blessington came to Gore House, and
+remained there just so long as Wilberforce had done&mdash;namely, thirteen
+years. The house is thus described in "The Gorgeous Lady Blessington"
+(Mr. Molloy):</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Lying back from the road, from which it was separated by high
+walls and great gates, it was approached by a courtyard that led to
+a spacious vestibule. The rooms were large and lofty, the hall wide
+and stately, but the chiefest attraction of all were the beautiful
+gardens stretching out at the back, with their wide terraces,
+flower-beds, extensive lawns, and fine old trees."</p></div>
+
+<p>Kensington Gore was then considered to be in the country, and spoken of
+as a mile from London. Count D'Orsay, who had married Lady Blessington's
+stepdaughter, rather in compliance with her father's wishes than his own
+inclination, spent much of his time with his mother-in-law, and at her
+receptions all the literary talent of the age was gathered
+together&mdash;Bulwer Lytton, Disraeli,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> and Landor were frequent visitors,
+and Prince Louis Napoleon made his way to Gore House when he escaped
+from prison. Lady Blessington died in 1849. The house was used as a
+restaurant during the 1851 Exhibition, and afterwards bought with the
+estate by the Commissioners.</p>
+
+<p>The name "gore" generally means a wedge-shaped insertion, and, if we
+take it as being between the Kensington Gardens and Brompton and
+Cromwell Roads, might be applicable here, but the explanation is
+far-fetched. Leigh Hunt reminds us that the same word "gore" was
+previously used for mud or dirt, and as the Kensington Road at this part
+was formerly notorious for its mud, this may be the meaning of the name,
+but there can be no certainty. Lowther Lodge, a picturesque red-brick
+house, stands back behind a high wall; it was designed by Norman Shaw,
+R.A. In the row of houses eastward of it facing the road, No. 2 was once
+the residence of Wilkes, who at that time had also a house in Grosvenor
+Square and another in the Isle of Wight. Croker says that the actor
+Charles Mathews was once, with his wife, Madame Vestris, in Gore Lodge,
+Brompton. He was certainly a friend of the Blessingtons, and stayed
+abroad with them in Naples for a year, and may have been attracted to
+their neighbourhood at the Gore.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Behind the Albert Hall are various buildings, such as Alexandra House
+for ladies studying art and music, also large mansions and
+<i>maisonnettes</i> recently built. The Royal College of Music, successor of
+the old College, which stood west of the Albert Hall, is in Prince
+Consort Road. It was designed by Sir Arthur Blomfield, and opened in
+1894. The cost was defrayed by Mr. Samson Fox, and in the building is a
+curious collection of old musical instruments known as the Donaldson
+Museum and open free daily. In the same road a prettily designed church,
+to be called Holy Trinity, Kensington Gore, is rapidly rising. In the
+northern part of Exhibition Road is the Technical Institute of the City
+and Guilds in a large red and white building, and just south of it the
+Royal School of Art Needlework for Ladies, founded by Princess
+Christian.</p>
+
+<p>Queen's Gate is very wide; in the southern part stands St. Augustine's
+Church, opened for service in 1871, though the chancel was not completed
+until five years later. The architect was Mr. Butterfield, and the
+church is of brick of different colours, with a bell gable at the west
+end. In Cromwell Place, near the underground station, Sir John Everett
+Millais lived in No. 7; the fact is recorded on a tablet. Harrington
+Road was formerly Cromwell Lane, and there is extant a letter of Leigh
+Hunt's dated from this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> address in 1830. Pelham Crescent, behind the
+station, formerly looked out upon tea-gardens. Guizot, the notable
+French Minister, came to live here after the fall of Louis Philippe. He
+was in No. 21, and Charles Mathews, the actor, lived for a time in No.
+25. The curves of the old Brompton Road suggest that it was a lane at
+one time, curving to avoid the fields or different properties on either
+side.</p>
+
+<p>Onslow Square stands upon the site of a large lunatic asylum. In it is
+St. Paul's Church, built in 1860, and well known for its evangelical
+services. There is nothing remarkable in its architecture save that the
+chancel is at the west end. The pulpit is of carved stone with inlaid
+slabs of American onyx. Marochetti, an Italian sculptor, who is
+responsible for many of the statues in London, including that of Prince
+Albert on the Memorial, lived at No. 34 in the square in 1860. But its
+proudest association is that Thackeray came to the house then No. 36,
+from Young Street, in 1853. "The Newcomes" was at that time appearing in
+parts, and continued to run until 1855, so that some of it was probably
+written here. He published also while here "The Rose and the Ring," the
+outcome of a visit to Rome with his daughters, and after "The Newcomes"
+was completed he visited America for a second time on a tour of
+lectures, subse<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>quently embodied in a book, "The Four Georges." By his
+move from Young Street he was nearer to his friends the Carlyles in
+Chelsea, a fact doubtless much appreciated on both sides. He contested
+Oxford in 1857, and in the following year began the publication of "The
+Virginians," which was doubtless inspired by his American experiences.
+In 1860 he was made editor of the <i>Cornhill</i>, from which his income came
+to something like &pound;4,000 a year, and on the strength of this accession
+of fortune he began to build a house in Palace Green, to which he moved
+when it was complete (p. <a href="#Page_53">53</a>).</p>
+
+<p>It has been remarked that this is rather a dismal neighbourhood, with
+the large hospitals for Cancer and Consumption facing each other across
+the Fulham Road, and the Women's Hospital quite close at hand. It is
+with the Consumption Hospital alone we have to do here, as the others
+are in Chelsea. This hospital stands on part of the ground which
+belonged to a famous botanical garden owned by William Curtis at the end
+of the eighteenth century. The building is of red brick, faced with
+white stone, and it is on a piece of ground about 3 acres in extent,
+lined by small trees, under which are seats for the wan-faced patients.
+The ground-plan of the building resembles the letter H, and the system
+adopted inside is that of galleries used as day-rooms and filled with
+chairs and couches. From<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> these the bedrooms open off. The galleries
+make a superior sort of ward, and are bright, with large windows, and
+polished floors. There is a chapel attached to the hospital, which was
+chiefly presented by the late Sir Henry Foulis, after whom one of the
+galleries is named, and who is also recalled in the name of a
+neighbouring terrace. The west wing of the hospital was added in 1852,
+and towards it Jenny Lind, who was resident in Brompton, presented
+&pound;1,600, the proceeds of a concert for the cause. There is also an
+extension building across the road. Here there is a compressed air-bath,
+in which an enormous pressure of air can be put upon the patient, to the
+relief of his lungs. This item, rendered expensive by its massive
+structure and iron bolts and bars, cost &pound;1,000, and is one of the only
+two of the kind in existence, the other being in Paris. A Miss Read
+bequeathed to the hospital the sum of &pound;100,000, and in memory of her a
+slab beneath a central window is inscribed: "In Memoriam Cordelia Read,
+1879." It was due to her beneficence that the extension building was
+added.</p>
+
+<p>In Cranley Gardens, which takes its name from the secondary title of the
+Earl of Onslow, is St. Peter's Church, founded in 1866. Cranley Gardens
+run into Gloucester Road, which formerly bore the much less aristocratic
+title of Hogmore Lane.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Just above the place where the Cromwell Road cuts Gloucester Road, about
+the site of the National Provincial Branch Bank, once stood a rather
+important house. It had been the Florida Tea-gardens, and having gained
+a bad reputation was closed, and the place sold to Sophia, Duchess of
+Gloucester, who built there a house on her own account, and called it
+Orford Lodge, in honour of her own family, the Walpoles. She had married
+privately William Henry, Duke of Gloucester, brother of George III. The
+marriage, which took place in 1766, was not revealed to King George II.
+until six years had passed, and when it was the Duke and Duchess fell
+under the displeasure of His Majesty. They travelled abroad for some
+time, but in 1780 were reinstated in royal favour. The Duke died in
+1805, and the Duchess two years later. After her death her daughter,
+Princess Sophia, sold the house to the great statesman George Canning,
+who renamed it Gloucester Lodge, and lived in it until his death
+eighteen years later. It was to this house he was brought after his duel
+with Lord Castlereagh, when he was badly wounded in the thigh. Crabbe,
+the poet, visited him at Gloucester Lodge, and records the fact in his
+journal, commenting on the gardens, and remarking that the place was
+much secluded. Canning also received here the unhappy Queen Caroline,
+whose cause he had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> warmly espoused. The house was pulled down about the
+middle of last century, but its memory is kept alive in Gloucester Road.</p>
+
+<p>Thistle Grove Lane is one of those quaint survivals which enable us to
+reconstruct the past topographically, in the same way as the silent
+letters in a word, apparently meaningless, enable us to reconstruct the
+philological past. It is no longer a lane, but a narrow passage, and
+about midway down is crossed by a little street called Priory Grove.
+Faulkner makes mention of Friars' Grove in this position, and the two
+names are probably identical. Brompton Heath lay east of this lane, and
+westward was Little Chelsea, a small hamlet in fields, situated by
+itself, quite detached from London, separated from it by the dreary
+heath, that no man might cross with impunity after dark.</p>
+
+<p>The Boltons is an oval piece of ground with St. Mary's Church in the
+middle. The church was opened in 1851, and the interior is surprisingly
+small in comparison with the exterior. It was fully restored about
+twenty years after it had been built. The land had been for many years
+the property of the Bolton family, whose name impressed itself on the
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the Fulham Road, and continuing westward, we pass the site
+of an old manor-house, afterwards used as an orphanage; near it was an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+additional building of the St. George's Union, which is opposite. There
+is a tradition that Boyle, the philosopher, once occupied this
+additional house, and was here visited by Locke. The present Union
+stands on the site of Shaftesbury House, built about 1635, and bought by
+the third Earl of Shaftesbury in 1699. Addison, who was a great friend
+of the Earl's, often stayed with him in Shaftesbury House.</p>
+
+<p>Redcliffe Gardens was formerly called Walnut-Tree Walk, another rural
+reminiscence. At the eastern corner was Burleigh House, and an entry in
+the Kensington registers, May 15, 1674, tells of the birth of "John
+Cecill, son and heir of John, Lord Burleigh," in the parish. There is no
+direct evidence to show that Lord Burleigh was then living in this
+house, but the probability is that he was. To the east of this house
+again was a row of others, with large gardens at the back; one was
+Lochee's well-known military academy, and another, Heckfield Lodge, was
+taken by the brothers of the Priory attached to the Roman Catholic
+church, Our Lady of Seven Dolours, which faces the street. The greater
+part of this church was built in 1876, but a very fine rectangular porch
+with figures of saints in the niches, and a narthex in the same style,
+were added later. The square tower with corner pinnacles is a
+conspicuous object in the Fulham Road.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Among other important persons who lived at Little Chelsea in or about
+Fulham Road were Sir Bartholomew Shower, a well-known lawyer, in 1693;
+the Bishop of Gloucester (Edward Fowler), 1709; the Bishop of Chester
+(Sir William Dawes), who afterwards became Archbishop of York; and Sir
+Edward Ward, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, in 1697. It is odd to read of
+a highway murder occurring near Little Chelsea in 1765. The barbarity of
+the time demanded that the murderers should be executed on the spot
+where their crime was committed, so that the two men implicated were
+hanged, the one at the end of Redcliffe Gardens, and the other near
+Stamford Bridge, Chelsea Station. These men were Chelsea pensioners, and
+must have been active for their years to make such an attempt. The
+gibbet stood at the end of the present Redcliffe Gardens for very many
+years.</p>
+
+<p>Ifield Road was once Honey Lane. To the west are the entrance gates of
+the cemetery, which is about 800 yards in extreme length by 300 in the
+broadest part. The graves are thickly clustered together at the southern
+end, with hardly two inches between the stones, which are of every
+variety. The cemetery was opened for burial in June, 1840. Sir Roderick
+Murchison, the geologist, is among those who lie here. In the centre of
+the southern part of the cemetery is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> chapel; two colonnades and a
+central building stand over the catacombs, which are not now used. At
+the northern end is a Dissenters' chapel. Having thus come to the
+extreme limits of the district, we turn to the neighbourhood of Earl's
+Court.</p>
+
+<p>Earl's Court can show good cause why it should hold both its names, for
+here the lords of the manor, the Earls of Oxford, held their courts. The
+earlier maps of Kensington are all of the nineteenth century. Before
+that time the old topographers doubtless thought there was nothing out
+of which to make a map, for except by the sides of the high-road, and in
+the detached villages of Brompton, Earl's Court, and Little Chelsea,
+there were only fields. Faulkner's 1820 map is very slight and sketchy.
+He says: "In speaking of this part, proceeding down Earl's Court Lane
+[Road], we arrive at the village of Earl's Court." The 1837 Survey shows
+a considerable increase in the number of houses, though Earl's Court is
+still a village, connected with Kensington by a lane. Daw's map of 1846
+for some reason shows fewer houses, but his 1858 map gives a decided
+increase.</p>
+
+<p>Near where the underground station now is stood the old court-house of
+Earl's Court. From 1789 to 1875 another building superseded it, but the
+older house was standing until 1878. There was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> a medicinal spring at
+Earl's Court in the beginning of the nineteenth century. Beside these
+two facts, there is very little that is interesting to note. John
+Hunter, the celebrated anatomist, founder of the Hunterian Museum, lived
+here in a house he had built for himself. He had a passion for animals,
+particularly strange beasts, and gathered an odd collection round him,
+somewhat to the dismay of his neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>The popular Earl's Court Exhibition is partly in Kensington and partly
+in Fulham; it is the largest exhibition open in London, and is
+patronized as much because it is one of the few places to which the
+Londoner can go to sit out of doors and hear a band after dinner, as for
+its more varied entertainments.</p>
+
+<p>One of the comparatively old houses of the neighbourhood of Earl's
+Court, that has only recently been demolished, was Coleherne Court, at
+the corner of Redcliffe Gardens and the Brompton Road. It is now
+replaced by residential flats. This was possibly the same house as that
+mentioned by Bowack (1705): "The Hon. Col. Grey has a fine seat at
+Earl's Court; it is but lately built, after the modern manner, and
+standing upon a plain, where nothing can intercept the sight, looks very
+stately at a distance. The gardens are very good." The house was later
+occupied by the widow of General Ponsonby,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> who fell in the Battle of
+Waterloo. Its companion, Hereford House, further eastward, was used as
+the headquarters of a cycling club before its demolition.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the district eastward to Gloucester Road has no old
+association. St. Jude's Church, in Courtfield Gardens, was built in
+1870. The reredos is of red-stained alabaster, coloured marble, and
+mosaics by Salviati. St. Stephen's, in Gloucester Road, is a smaller
+church, founded in 1866. Beyond it Gloucester Road runs into Victoria
+Road, once Love Lane. General Gordon was at No. 8, Victoria Grove, in
+1881. Returning again to Earl's Court Road, we see St. Stephen's,
+another of the numerous modern churches in which the district abounds;
+it was built partly at the expense of the Rev. D. Claxton, and was
+opened in 1858. In Warwick Gardens, westward, is St. Mathias, which
+rivals St. Cuthbert's, in Philbeach Gardens, in the ritualism of its
+services. Both churches are very highly decorated. In St. Cuthbert's the
+interior is of great height, and the walls ornamentally worked in stone;
+there is a handsome oak screen, and a very fine statue of the Virgin and
+Child by Sir Edgar Boehm in the Lady Chapel; in both churches the seats
+are all free.</p>
+
+<p>Edwardes Square, with its houses on the north side bordering Kensington
+Road, is peculiarly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> attractive, with a large garden in the centre, and
+an old-world air about its houses, which are mostly small. Leigh Hunt
+says that it was (traditionally) built by a Frenchman at the time of the
+threatened French invasion, and that so confident was this good patriot
+of the issue of the war that he built the square, with its large garden
+and small houses, to suit the promenading tastes and poorly-furnished
+pockets of Napoleon's officers. The name was taken from the family name
+of Lord Kensington.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Inchbald stayed as a boarder at No. 4 in the square when she was
+sixty-five. She seems to have chosen the life for the sake of company
+rather than by reason of lack of means, for she was not badly off,
+having been always extraordinarily well paid for her work. She is
+described as having been above the middle height, of a freckled
+complexion, and with sandy hair, but nevertheless good-looking. Leigh
+Hunt himself was at No. 32 for some years before 1853, when he removed
+to Hammersmith. He mentions, on hearsay, that Coleridge once stayed in
+the square, but this was probably only on the occasion of a visit to
+friends. In recent times Walter Pater was a resident here.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving aside for a time Holland House, standing in beautiful grounds,
+which line the northern side of the road, and turning eastward, we find<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+the Roman Catholic Pro-Cathedral, almost hidden behind houses. It is of
+dark-red brick, and was designed by Mr. Goldie, but the effect of the
+north porch is lost, owing to the buildings which hem it in; this defect
+will doubtless be remedied in time as leases expire. The interior of the
+cathedral is of great height, and the light stone arches are supported
+by pillars of polished Aberdeen granite.</p>
+
+<p>After Abingdon Road comes Allen Street, in which there is the Kensington
+Independent Chapel, a great square building with an imposing portico,
+built in 1854, "for the worshippers in the Hornton Street Chapel." The
+houses at the northern end of Allen Street are called Phillimore
+Terrace, and here Sir David Wilkie came in the autumn of 1824, having
+for the previous thirteen years lived in Lower Phillimore Place. His
+life in Kensington was quiet and regular. He says: "I dine at two
+o'clock, paint two hours in the forenoon and two hours in the afternoon,
+and take a short walk in the Park or through the fields twice a day."
+His mother and sister lived with him, and though he was a bachelor, his
+domestic affections were very strong. The time in Phillimore Terrace was
+far from bright; it was while he lived here that his mother died, also
+two of his brothers and his sister's <i>fianc&eacute;</i>; and many other troubles,
+including money worries, came upon him. He eventually moved, though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> not
+far, only to Vicarage Gardens (then Place), near Church Street.</p>
+
+<p>In Kensington Road, beyond Allen Street, was an ancient inn, the Adam
+and Eve, in which it is said that Sheridan used to stop for a drink on
+the way to and from Holland House, and where he ran up a bill which he
+coolly left to be settled by his friend Lord Holland. The inn is now
+replaced by a modern public-house of the same name. Between this and
+Wright's Lane the aspect of the place has been entirely changed in the
+last few years by the erection of huge red-brick flats. On the other
+side of Wright's Lane the enlarged premises of Messrs. Ponting have
+covered up the site of Scarsdale House, which only disappeared to make
+way for them. Scarsdale House is supposed to have been built by one of
+the Earls of Scarsdale (first creation), the second of whom married Lady
+Frances Rich, eldest daughter of the Earl of Warwick and Holland, but
+there is not much evidence to support this conjecture. At the same time,
+the house was evidently much older than the date of the second Scarsdale
+creation&mdash;namely, 1761. The difficulty is surmounted by Mr. Loftie, who
+says: "John Curzon, who founded it, and called it after the home of his
+ancestors in Derbyshire, had bought the land for the purpose of building
+on it."</p>
+
+<p>At the end of this lane is the Home for Crippled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> Boys, established in
+Woolsthorpe House. The house was evidently named after the home of Sir
+Isaac Newton at Woolsthorpe, near Grantham. But apparently he never
+lived in it. His only connection with this part is that here stood "a
+batch of good old family houses, one of which belonged to Sir Isaac
+Newton." It is possible that the name was given by an enthusiastic
+admirer, moved thereto by the fact that Newton had lived in Bullingham
+House, Church Street, not so far distant.</p>
+
+<p>In the 1837 map of the district Woolsthorpe is marked "Carmaerthen
+House." The front and the entrance are old, and in one of the rooms
+there is decorative moulding on the ceiling and a carved mantelpiece,
+but the schoolrooms and workshops built out at the back are all modern.
+The home had a very small beginning, being founded in 1866 by Dr. Bibby,
+who rented one room, and took in three crippled boys.</p>
+
+<p>In Marloes Road, further south, are the workhouse and infirmary.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the High Street, the Free Library and the Town Hall attract
+attention. The latter is nearly on the site of the old free schools,
+which were built by Sir John Vanbrugh with all the solidity
+characteristic of his style; and Leigh Hunt opined, if suffered to
+remain, they would probably outlast the whole of Kensington. However, no
+such misfortune occurred, and the only relics of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> them remaining are the
+figures of the charity children of Queen Anne's period, which now stand
+above the doorway of the new schools at the back of the Town Hall.</p>
+
+<p>William Cobbett, "essayist, politician, agriculturist," lived in a house
+on the site of some of the great shops on the south side of the High
+Street, opposite the Town Hall. His grounds bordered on those of
+Scarsdale House, and he established in them a seed garden in which to
+carry out his practical experiments in agriculture. His pugnacity and
+sharp tongue led him into many a quarrel, and he was never a favourite
+with those who were his neighbours. He advocated Queen Caroline's cause
+with warmth, and was the real author of her famous letter to the King.
+But he will always be remembered best by his <i>Weekly Register</i>, a potent
+political weapon.</p>
+
+<p>The parish church of St. Mary Abbots, with its high spire, forms a very
+striking object on the north side of the road. There is a stone porch
+over the entrance to the churchyard, and a picturesque cloistered
+passage leading round the south side. Within the cloister is a tablet
+commemorating the fact that it was partly built by Rev. E. C. Glyn and
+his wife in memory of his mother, who died in 1892. A little further on,
+immediately facing the south door, is another tablet, stating that the
+porch at the entrance to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> the cloister was erected by the widow of James
+Liddle Fairless in memory of her husband, who died in 1891. Within the
+church the walls are thickly covered with memorial tablets, and on the
+north and south walls are rows of them set in coloured marble. The
+reredos is a representation of the four evangelists in mosaic work in
+four panels, enclosed in a Gothic canopy of marble. On the north side of
+the chancel is a fresco painting enclosed in marble, presented by the
+Archbishop of York on leaving the parish. On the south side there is
+also a small fresco painting, but the greater part of the wall is
+occupied by the sedilia. The transept on the south side of the nave
+contains numerous memorial tablets and two brasses: nearly all of these
+belong to the eighteenth century. The monument of the Rich family is
+against the west wall in this transept, and is a conspicuous object. A
+large marble slab against the wall bears the name of Edward Rich, last
+Earl of Warwick and Holland (died 1759), his wife Mary, who survived him
+ten years, and their only child Charlotte, who died unmarried. Above are
+the names of the Rich family, and below is the statue of the young Earl
+of Warwick and Holland, the stepson of Addison, who died in 1721, aged
+twenty-four. He is in Roman dress, life-size, and is represented seated
+with his right elbow resting on an urn.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the further side of the south door we have a curious old white marble
+monument to the memory of Mr. Colin Campbell (died 1708). This was in
+the old church, and was placed in its present position by a descendant
+of the Campbell family. The font, a handsome marble basin, stands in the
+north aisle. Near it is a marble bust of Dr. Rennell, a former vicar of
+Kensington, by Chantrey. In the north chapel there is a large marble
+tablet to the memory of William Murray, third son of the Earl of
+Dunmore. The pulpit is of dark carved oak, and stood in the old church.
+The west porch is very handsomely ornamented with stonework. In the
+churchyard are buried several persons of note, including Mrs. Inchbald,
+the authoress; and a son of George Canning, whose monument is by
+Chantrey.</p>
+
+<p>Among other entries in the registers may be noticed the marriage of
+Henry Cromwell, already mentioned. There are many records of the Hicks
+(Campden) family, also of the Winchilsea and Nottingham, Lawrence,
+Cecil, Boyle, Howard of Effingham, Brydges, Dukes of Chandos,
+Molesworth, and Godolphin families. The plate belonging to the church is
+very valuable. The oldest piece is a cup dating from 1599, and a silver
+tankard is of the year 1619. A full description of the plate was given
+by Mr. Cripps in the parish magazine in 1879.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The church owes its additional name of Abbots to the fact of its having
+belonged to the Abbot and convent of Abingdon, as set forth in the
+history of the parish. Bowack says: "It does not appear that this church
+was ever dedicated to any saint, nor can we find, after a very strict
+search, by whom it was founded, though we have traced its vicars up to
+the year 1260."</p>
+
+<p>It has already been explained that Aubrey de Vere made a present to the
+Abbot of the slice of land on which the church stands, and that this
+formed a secondary manor in Kensington. This transfer had been made with
+the consent of Pope Alexander, but without the consent of the Bishop of
+London or the Archbishop. In consequence of this omission the title of
+the Abbey to the land was disputed, and it was at length settled that
+the patronage of the vicarage should be vested in the Bishop. This was
+in 1260. At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries the Abbot's
+portion became vested in the Crown, from which it passed to various
+persons; and when Sir Walter Cope bought the manor a special arrangement
+had to be made with Robert Horseman, who was then in possession.</p>
+
+<p>So much for the history. The actual fabric has been subject to much
+change, and has been rebuilt many times. It is known that a church was
+standing on this site in 1102, but how old<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> it was then is only matter
+for conjecture; in 1370 it was wholly or partly rebuilt. And this church
+was pulled down about 1694, with the exception of the tower, and again
+rebuilt; but in seven years the new building began to crack, and in 1704
+the roof was taken off, and the north and south walls once more rebuilt.
+After this Bowack describes it as "of brick and handsomely finished; but
+what it was formerly may be guessed by the old tower now standing, which
+has some appearance of antiquity, and looks like the architecture of the
+twelfth or thirteenth centuries." In his encomium he probably spoke more
+in accordance with convention than with real approbation, for this
+church has been described by many other independent persons as an
+unsightly building, with no architectural beauty whatever; and as far as
+may be gathered from the prints still extant this is the true judgment.
+In 1811 it showed signs of decay, and underwent thorough restoration;
+and in 1869 it was entirely demolished, and the present church built
+from the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott. The spire, added a few years
+later, is only exceeded by two in England&mdash;namely, those of Salisbury
+and Norwich Cathedrals.</p>
+
+<p>There are many parish charities, which it would be out of place to
+enumerate here, and among them are several bequests for the cleansing
+and repair of tombs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The fine shops on the south side of the street inherit a more ancient
+title than might be supposed. Bowack, writing in 1705, speaks of the
+"abundance of shopkeepers and all sorts of artificers" along the
+high-road, "which makes it appear rather like a part of London than a
+country village."</p>
+
+<p>Leaving aside for the time Church Street and all the interesting
+district on the north, we turn to Kensington Square, which was begun
+about the end of James II.'s reign, and from the very first was a
+notably fashionable place, and more especially so after the Court was
+established at Kensington Palace. In Queen Anne's reign, "for beauty of
+buildings and worthy inhabitants," it "exceeds several noted squares in
+London." The eminent inhabitants have indeed been so numerous that it is
+difficult to prevent any account of them from degenerating into a mere
+catalogue. "In the time of George II. the demand for lodgings was so
+great that an Ambassador, a Bishop, and a physician were known to occupy
+apartments in the same house" (Faulkner).</p>
+
+<p>The two houses, Nos. 10 and 11, in the eastern corner on the south side
+are the two oldest that look on to the square. They were reserved for
+the maids of honour when the Court was at Kensington, and the wainscoted
+rooms and little powdering closets speak volumes as to their by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>gone
+days; these two were originally one house, as the exterior shows. Next
+door is the women's department of King's College. J. R. Green, the
+historian, lived at No. 14 until his death, and in No. 18 John S. Mill
+was living in 1839. Three Bishops at least are known to have been
+domiciled in the square: Bishop Mawson of Ely, who died here in 1770;
+Bishop Herring of Bangor, a very notable prelate, who was afterwards
+Archbishop of Canterbury; and in the south-western corner Bishop Hough
+of Oxford, Lichfield, and Worcester had a fine old house until 1732. The
+Convent of the Assumption now covers the same ground in Nos. 20 to 24.
+The original object of the convent was prayer for the conversion of
+England to the Roman Catholic faith, but the sisters now devote
+themselves to the work of teaching; they have a pleasant garden, more
+than an acre in extent, stretching out at the back of the house. In the
+chapel there is a fresco painting by Westlake.</p>
+
+<p>No. 26 is the Kensington Foundation Grammar School. Talleyrand lived in
+Nos. 36 and 37, formerly one house. He succeeded Bishop Herring in the
+occupancy, after a lapse of fifty years, and the man who had abandoned
+the vocation of the Church to follow diplomacy was thus sheltered by the
+same roof that had sheltered a Churchman by vocation, if ever there were
+one. Many foreign ambassadors patronized the square<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> at various times.
+The Duchess of Mazarin, already mentioned in the volume on Chelsea, was
+here in 1692, and six years later moved to her Chelsea home, where she
+died; but her day was over many years before she came here. Joseph
+Addison lodged in the square for a time, four or five years before his
+marriage with the Countess of Warwick. At No. 41 Sir Edward Burne-Jones
+lived for three years, subsequently removing to West Kensington, but the
+association which has most glorified the square is its proximity to
+Young Street, so long the home of Thackeray. He came to No. 16, then 13,
+in 1846, aged only thirty-five, but with the romance of his life behind
+him. A tablet marks the window in which he used to work. Six years
+previously his wife, whom he had tenderly loved, had developed
+melancholia, and, soon becoming a confirmed invalid, had had to be
+placed permanently under medical care. Their married life had been very
+short, only four or five years, but Thackeray had three little daughters
+to remind him of it. He had passed through many vicissitudes, from the
+comparatively opulent days of youth and the University to the time when
+he had lost all his patrimony and been forced to support himself
+precariously by pen and pencil. Yearly he had become better known, and
+by the time he came to Young Street he was sufficiently removed from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+money troubles to be without that worst form of worry, anxiety for the
+future. He had contributed to the <i>Times</i>, <i>Frazer's Magazine</i>, and
+<i>Punch</i>. It is rather odd to read that at the time when <i>Punch</i> was
+started one of Thackeray's friends was rather sorry that he should
+become a contributor, fearing that it would lower his status in the
+literary world! It was in <i>Punch</i>, nevertheless, that his first real
+triumph was won. The "Snob Papers" attracted universal attention, and
+were still running when he moved to Young Street. Here he began more
+serious work, and scarcely a year later "Vanity Fair" was brought out in
+numbers, according to the fashion made popular by Dickens. It did not
+prove an instantaneous success, but by the time it had run its course
+its author's position was assured. In spite of the sorrow that
+overshadowed his domestic life&mdash;and he had by this time for many years
+given up any hope of communicating with his wife&mdash;the time he spent in
+this house cannot have been unhappy. He had congenial work, many
+friends, among whom were numbered his fellow contributor Leech, also G.
+F. Watts, Herman Merivale, the Theodore Martins, Monckton Milnes,
+Kinglake, and others. He had also his daughters, and he was a loving and
+sympathetic father, realizing that children need brightness in their
+lives as well as mere care, and taking his little family about when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>ever
+he could to parties and shows; and he had a growing reputation in the
+literary world. "Pendennis" was published in 1848, and before it had
+finished running Thackeray suffered from a severe illness, that left its
+mark on all his succeeding life.</p>
+
+<p>It was after this that Miss Bront&euml; came to dine with him in Young
+Street. She had admired "Vanity Fair" immensely, and was ready to offer
+hero-worship; but the sensitive, dull little governess did not reveal in
+society the fire that had made her books live, and we are told that
+Thackeray, although her host, found the dinner so dull that he slipped
+away to his club before she left. He had now a good income from his
+books, and added to it by lecturing. "Esmond" appeared in 1852, and the
+references to my Lady Castlewood's house in Kensington Square and the
+Greyhound tavern (the name of the inn opposite to Thackeray's own house)
+will be remembered by everyone. The novelist visited America shortly
+after, and then went with his children to Switzerland, and it was in
+Switzerland that the idea for "The Newcomes" came to him. Young Street
+can only claim a part of that book, for in 1853 he moved to Onslow
+Square, and the last number of "The Newcomes" did not appear until 1855.
+However, this was not his last connection with this part of Kensington,
+for in 1861 he built<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> himself a house in Palace Green, but he only
+occupied it for two years, when his death occurred at the early age of
+fifty-two.</p>
+
+<p>The houses in Kensington Court, near by, are elaborately decorated with
+ornamental terra-cotta mouldings. They stand just about the place where
+once was Kensington House, which had something of a history. It was for
+a while the residence of the Duchess of Portsmouth (Louise de
+Querouaille), and later was the school of Dr. Elphinstone, referred to
+in Boswell's "Life of Johnson," and supposed, on the very slightest
+grounds, to have been the original of one of Smollett's brutal
+schoolmasters in "Roderick Random"; though the driest of pedagogues,
+Elphinstone was the reverse of brutal. The house was subsequently a
+Roman Catholic seminary, and then a boarding-house, where Mrs. Inchbald
+lodged, and in which she died in 1821.</p>
+
+<p>Close by was another old house, made notorious by its owner's
+miserliness; this man, Sir Thomas Colby, died intestate, and his fortune
+of &pound;200,000 was divided among six or seven day labourers, who were his
+next of kin. A new Kensington House was built on the site of these two,
+and is said to have cost &pound;250,000, but its owner got into difficulties,
+and eventually the costly house was pulled down, and its fittings sold
+for a twentieth part of their value. Near at hand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> are De Vere Gardens,
+to which Robert Browning came in June, 1887, from Warwick Crescent.</p>
+
+<p>Further eastward we come to Palace Gate. Some of this property belongs
+to the local charities. It is known as Butts Field Estate, and was so
+called from the fact that the butts for archery practice were once set
+up here.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Kensington Gardens and Palace.</span></h3>
+
+<p>The Gardens are so intimately connected with the Palace that it is
+impossible to touch upon the one without the other, and though Leigh
+Hunt caustically remarked that a criticism might be made on Kensington
+that it has "a Palace which is no palace, Gardens which are no gardens,
+and a river called the Serpentine which is neither serpentine nor a
+river," yet in spite of this the Palace, the Gardens, and the river
+annually give pleasure to thousands, and possess attractions of their
+own by no means despicable. The flower-beds in the gardens nearest to
+Kensington Road are beautiful enough in themselves to justify the title
+of gardens. This is the quarter most patronized by nursemaids and their
+charges. There are shady narrow paths, also the Broad Walk, with its
+leafy overarching boughs resembling one of Nature's aisles, and the
+Round Pond, pleasant in spite of its primness. The Gardens were not
+always open to the public, but partly belonged<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> to the palace of
+time-soiled bricks to which the public is now also admitted.</p>
+
+<p>The first house on this site of which we have any reliable detail is
+that built by Sir Heneage Finch, the second of the name, who was Lord
+Chancellor under Charles I. and was created Earl of Nottingham in 1681,
+though it is probable that there had been some building on or near the
+same place before, possibly the manor-house of the Abbot. The first Earl
+of Nottingham had bought the estate from his younger brother, Sir John,
+and it was from his successor, the second earl, that William III. bought
+Nottingham House, as it was then called.</p>
+
+<p>William suffered much from asthma, and the gravel pits of Kensington
+were then considered very healthy, and combined the advantages of not
+being very far from town with the pure air of the country. Of course,
+the house had to be enlarged in order to be suitable for a royal
+residence, but it was not altogether demolished, and there are parts of
+the original Nottingham House still standing, probably the south side of
+the courtyard, where the brick is of a deeper shade than the rest. King
+William's taste in the matter of architecture knew no deviation; his
+model was Versailles, and as he had commissioned Wren to transform the
+Tudor building of Hampton into a palace resembling Versailles, so he
+directed him to repeat the experi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>ment here. The long, low red walls,
+with their neat exactitude, speak still of William's orders; a building
+of heterogeneous growth, with a tower here and an angle there, would
+have disgusted him: his ideal would have found its fulfilment in a
+modern barrack. Wren's taste, later aided by the lapse of time, softened
+down the hard angularity of the building, but it can in no sense be
+considered admirable. Thus Kensington Palace was built, and its walls
+and its park like gardens were to be as closely associated with the
+Hanoverian Sovereigns as the building and park of St. James's had been
+associated with the Stuarts whom William had supplanted.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace was not finished when Queen Mary was seized with small-pox
+and died within its walls, leaving a husband who, though narrow and
+austere, had really loved her. He himself died at Kensington eight years
+later. Good-hearted Queen Anne, whose last surviving child had died two
+years before, took up her residence at the Palace, of which she was
+always extremely fond. The death of her husband in 1708 left her to a
+lonely reign, and she seems to have solaced herself with her garden,
+superintending the laying out of the grounds. She had no taste, and
+everything she ordered was dull and formal; yet she could not spoil the
+natural beauty of the situation, and she still had Wren to direct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> her
+in architectural matters. The great orangery which goes by her name, and
+now stands empty and forlorn, is seen on nearing the public entrance to
+the state apartments of the Palace, and is in itself a wonderful example
+of Wren's genius for proportion. The private gardens of the Palace must
+not be confounded with the larger grounds, which stretched up to Hyde
+Park. The whole place had a very different aspect at that time: there
+were King William's gardens, with formal flower-beds and walks in the
+Dutch style, and northward lay Queen Anne's additional gardens, very
+much in the same style. The rest was comparatively uncared-for and
+waste. Queen Anne died at Kensington from apoplexy, brought on by
+over-eating, and was succeeded by the first George, who spent so much of
+his time in visiting his Hanoverian dominions that he had not much left
+for performing the merely necessary Court duties at St. James's, and
+none to spare for any lengthy visits to Kensington. However, he admired
+the place, and caused alterations to be made. It was in his reign that
+the ugly annexe on the east side, bearing unmistakably a Georgian
+origin, was added, under the superintendence of William Kent, who had
+supplanted Wren. George's daughter-in-law, "Caroline the Illustrious,"
+loved Kensington, and has left her impress on it more than any other
+occupant.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> When her husband came to the throne, she spent much of her
+time, during his long absences abroad, at the Palace. She employed Kent
+to do away with William's formal flower-beds, and she added much ground
+to the Gardens, taking for the purpose 100 acres from Hyde Park, and
+dividing the two parks by the Serpentine River, formed from the pools in
+the bed of the Westbourne. There were eleven pools altogether, but in
+later days, when the Westbourne stream had become a mere sewer, in which
+form it still flows underground and empties itself into the Thames near
+Chelsea Bridge, the Chelsea waterworks supplied the running water. The
+elaborate terrace, with its fountains at the north end, is a favourite
+place with children. The statue of Sir William Jenner stands near; it
+was brought from Trafalgar Square. In winter, when frozen over, the
+Serpentine affords skating-room for hundreds of persons, and at other
+times bathing is permitted in the early morning.</p>
+
+<p>In her gardens the fair Queen walked with her bevy of maids of honour,
+that bevy which has always been renowned for its beauty, herself the
+fairest of all. These fascinating, light-hearted girls grew up in an age
+of coarseness and vice, and were surrounded by temptation, which all,
+alas! did not resist, in spite of their royal mistress's example and
+courage. It was an age of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> meaningless gallantry and real brutality; the
+high-flown compliment and pretended adoration covered cynical intention
+and unabashed effrontery. Caroline herself preserved an untainted name,
+and her influence must have been a rock of salvation to the giddy,
+laughing girls. Leigh Hunt, quoting from the "Suffolk Correspondence,"
+thus summarizes these maids: "There is Miss Hobart, the sweet tempered
+and sincere (now become Mrs. Howard, afterwards Lady Suffolk); Miss
+Howe, the giddiest of the giddy (which she lived to lament); Margaret
+Bellenden, who vied in height with her royal mistress; the beautiful
+Mary Bellenden, her sister, who became Duchess of Argyll; Mary Lepel,
+the lovely, who became Lady Hervey; and Anne Pitt, sister of the future
+Lord Chatham, and as 'like him as two drops of fire.'"</p>
+
+<p>Caroline's devotion to her insignificant little lord and master, and the
+eagerness with which she hastened on foot to meet him, running across
+the Gardens, on his return from the Continent, have been made the
+subject of satire. She was generally accompanied by her five daughters,
+a pathetic little band, cramped in the fetters of royalty, so stringent
+toward their sex. Portraits of two of them may be seen in the Palace.</p>
+
+<p>Caroline did not die at Kensington, though her husband did, after having
+survived her more than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> twenty years, and having in the meantime
+discovered her inestimable worth. At this time the Gardens were open to
+the public on Saturdays by Queen Caroline's orders, and were a favourite
+parade, though, as everyone was requested to appear in "full dress," the
+numbers must have been limited. The principal promenade was the Broad
+Walk, which Caroline herself had caused to be made. We can picture these
+ghosts of the past, with their gay silks and satins, the silver-buckled
+shoes with coloured heels, the men in their long waistcoats, heavily
+skirted coats, and three-cornered hats&mdash;very fine beaux, indeed; and the
+women stiffly encased in the most uncomfortable garments that ever the
+wit of mortal devised, holding their heads erect, lest the marvellous
+pyramids, built up with such expenditure of time and money, should
+topple over, and, in spite of all disadvantages, looking pretty and
+piquant. It was a crowd not so far removed from us by time, so that we
+can attribute to the men and women who composed it the same feelings and
+sensibilities as our own. And yet they were very far removed from us in
+their surroundings, for many of the things that are to us commonplace
+would have been to them miraculous, so that they seem more different
+from us of a hundred years later than from those who preceded them by
+many hundreds of years. It is this mingling of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> life we can
+understand, with circumstances so different, that gives the eighteenth
+century its predominant and never-dying charm.</p>
+
+<p>In 1798 we hear of a man being accidentally shot while the keepers were
+hunting (presumably shooting) foxes in Kensington Gardens.</p>
+
+<p>In the Palace itself the state apartments are now open to the public
+every day of the week except Wednesdays. This admittance was granted by
+Queen Victoria in commemoration of her eightieth year. Previously to
+this time the Palace had been allowed to fall into decay, and it needed
+a large grant from Parliament to put it into repair again. The state
+rooms, which are on the second floor, are well worth a visit, and the
+names of each, such as "Queen Mary's Gallery," "Queen Caroline's
+Drawing-room," and "King's Privy Chamber," are above the doors, as at
+Hampton Court. These rooms are nearly all liberally supplied with
+pictures, many of which were restored from Hampton Court after having
+been previously taken there. We see here the winsome face of the poor
+little Duke of Gloucester (p. <a href="#Page_72">72</a>), handsome Queen Caroline, sardonic
+William, and the family group of the children of Frederick, Prince of
+Wales. The selection has been made with judgment, and every picture
+speaks to us of the reigns most closely connected with the Palace. It is
+well to note the view east<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>ward from the King's Drawing-room, which
+comes as a surprise. The outlook is over the Round Pond and down a vista
+of trees to the Serpentine, and gives a surprising effect of distance.
+The rooms that will always attract most attention, however, are those
+which were occupied by Queen Victoria as a child.</p>
+
+<p>When the Duke and Duchess of Kent came to Kensington Palace seven months
+after their marriage, the fact that a child of theirs might occupy the
+English throne was a possibility, but a remote one. George III. was then
+on the throne; the daughter and only child of his eldest son, Princess
+Charlotte, had died a year previously, and it was natural that after
+this event the succession should be considered in a new light. The next
+son, William, Duke of Clarence, had carried on a lifelong connection
+with Mrs. Jordan, by whom he had ten children, and when the death of his
+elder brother's only child made him heir to the throne, it was necessary
+for him to contract a more suitable alliance, so with great reluctance
+he married Adelaide, daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg Meiningen, in
+1818. Frederick, Duke of York, the next in age, had been married for
+many years, but his union had proved childless. He is the Duke
+commemorated in the column in Waterloo Place, and also in the
+soldier-boys' school at Chelsea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Therefore the birth of a daughter to the Duke of Kent, the fourth son,
+at Kensington Palace on May 24, 1819, was an event of no small
+importance. The room in which the Princess was born was one on the first
+floor, just below the King's Privy Chamber, and it is marked by a brass
+plate. This is not among the state apartments shown to the public, but
+the little room called the Nursery, in which the young Princess played,
+and her small bedroom adjoining, lie in the regular circuit made by
+visitors through the rooms.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke died less than a year after his daughter's birth, so there were
+no small brothers or sisters to share the Princess's childhood; but her
+stepsister, Princess Feodore, her mother's child, was much attached to
+her, and might often be seen walking or driving with her in the Gardens.
+The Nursery has a secondary association, for the Duke and Duchess of
+Teck lived for some time at Kensington Palace, and it was in this room
+that their daughter, the present Princess of Wales, was born.</p>
+
+<p>The chief objects in the room are the dolls' house and other toys, all
+of the plainest description, with which Princess Victoria played as a
+child. There was no extravagance in her bringing up. Her mother was the
+wisest of women, and made no attempt to force the young intellect to
+tasks beyond its powers, nor did she spoil the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> child by undue
+indulgence. Early rising, morning walks, simple dinner, and games,
+constituted the days that passed rapidly in the seclusion of Kensington.
+When the young Princess had turned the age of five, her lessons began
+under the superintendence of Fr&auml;ulein Lehzen, the governess of Princess
+Feodore, who was afterwards raised to the peerage as Baroness Lehzen.
+Though the second of the children of the Duke of Clarence had died
+before Victoria was three years old, and thus her chance of the throne
+was greatly increased, she was not made aware of her prospects until
+much later. The Princess Sophia, daughter of George III., lived in
+Church Street close by, at York House, and the Duke of Sussex, a younger
+son of George III., lived with his morganatic wife, called the Duchess
+of Inverness, in a set of apartments in the Palace. The rooms they
+occupied are those now tenanted by the Duke and Duchess of Argyll; thus
+aunts and an uncle were constantly sharing the simple pleasures of the
+little family circle.</p>
+
+<p>The singularly plain little bedroom near to the Nursery in the Palace is
+that which Princess Victoria occupied during all her happy childhood,
+and it was here that she was awakened to meet the Archbishop and
+Minister who brought her the news that her great inheritance had come
+upon her. The death of the Duke of York had already<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> cleared the way to
+the throne, and as the years went by and the Duke of Clarence had no
+more children, it was seen that the little girl who played at Kensington
+must, if she lived, be Queen of England. When George IV. died, when she
+was eleven years old, her prospects were assured, and since that time
+she had been prepared for her future position. William IV.'s short reign
+of only seven years seated her on the throne when she had just passed
+her eighteenth year. The account of her being awakened in the early
+morning by messengers bearing a message of such tremendous import, her
+hasty rising, and stepping through into the Long Gallery with her hair
+falling over her shoulders, and only a shawl thrown around her, is well
+known to everyone.</p>
+
+<p>The room in which her first Council took place is below the Cube Room.
+No wonder that Queen Victoria had always a tender memory of Kensington
+Palace.</p>
+
+<p>Her favourite daughter, Princess Beatrice of Battenberg, occupies a
+suite of rooms at the Palace, besides Princess Louise, Duchess of
+Argyll; and there are several other occupants&mdash;widows, retired army men,
+and those who have some claim on the private generosity of the
+Crown&mdash;who live here in sets of apartments, in the same way as others
+live at Hampton Court.</p>
+
+<p>The somewhat untidy forcing-beds which now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> stand in the immediate
+proximity to the Palace, and which supply the royal parks, are shortly
+to be cleared away&mdash;a decided improvement.</p>
+
+<p>Queen Victoria's connection with Kensington did not cease at her
+accession. At Prince Albert's suggestion a great Exhibition was held in
+1851, and the huge palace of glass and iron, which was to house it,
+sprang up in the Gardens at the spot where the Albert Memorial now
+stands. Foreigners from all parts of the world visited the Exhibition,
+and the buildings were crowded. Very different was that crowd from that
+which had promenaded in the Gardens in the reigns of the Georges. Women
+wore coalscuttle bonnets and three-cornered shawls, with the points
+hanging down in the centre of their backs, and crinolines that gave them
+the appearance of inverted tops. Their beauty must have been very potent
+to shine through such a disguise! The profits of the Exhibition amounted
+to &pound;150,000, which was invested in land in South Kensington. The Crystal
+Palace exactly suited the taste of the age, and when it had fulfilled
+the function for which it was primarily intended, the difficulty was to
+know what to do with it; it was not possible to leave it in the Gardens,
+so it was finally transported to Sydenham, where it still annually
+delights thousands.</p>
+
+<p>The Albert Memorial took twenty years to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> complete, and cost more than
+&pound;130,000. The four groups representing the continents of the world are
+fine both in execution and idea, also the bas-reliefs, in which every
+figure depicts some real person, and the smaller groups of Commerce,
+Manufactures, Agriculture, and Engineering. As much, unfortunately,
+cannot be said for the tawdry statue in its canopy.</p>
+
+<p>It has been necessary to linger long over the Gardens and the Palace,
+but we must now turn northward up Church Street to complete our
+perambulation of the district. In Church Street is the Carmelite Church,
+designed by Pugin, and though very simple in style, not pleasing. It was
+built in 1865. The organ is an especially fine one, and the singing is
+famous. There is a relic of St. Simon Stock beneath the altar, which is
+very highly prized. The monastery extends along the side of Duke's Lane
+at the back of the church. It is rather an ornamental building, with
+stone pinnacles and carved stonework over the doorway. It opens upon the
+corner where Duke's Lane meets Pitt Street, and close by stood
+Bullingham House, where Sir Isaac Newton lived. It has now disappeared,
+and red-brick mansions have risen upon the site.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Loftie, writing in 1888, says: "When we enter the garden from Pitt
+Street we see there are two distinct houses. One of them to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> north
+appears slightly the older of the two, and has an eastward wing,
+slightly projecting from which a passage opened on Church Street. The
+adjoining, or southern, house has greater architectural pretensions, and
+within is of more solid construction. Both have been much pulled about
+and altered at various times, and are now thrown together by passages
+through the walls. A chamber is traditionally pointed out as that in
+which Sir Isaac Newton died."</p>
+
+<p>Sir Isaac at the time he came to Kensington was at the height of his
+fame and reputation, and held the office of Master at the Mint, after
+having been previously Deputy-Master. He had come to London from
+Cambridge, and settled in Leicester Square (see <i>The Strand</i>, same
+series), but finding his health suffer in consequence of the dirt and
+smoke, he moved "out of London" to Kensington. He remained here two
+years consecutively, and returned shortly before his death.</p>
+
+<p>He may have been attracted to Kensington by its vicinity to the Palace.
+Queen Caroline, even as Princess of Wales, had always shown an
+inclination for the society of learned men, and in particular had showed
+favour to Sir Isaac. His portrait by Sir Godfrey Kneller hangs in one of
+the state apartments at the Palace.</p>
+
+<p>Bullingham House was probably called after John Bullingham, Bishop of
+Gloucester and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> Bristol, who died at Kensington in 1598. Later,
+Bullingham House was known at one time as Orbell's buildings, for
+Stephen Pitt, after whom the street is named, had married the daughter
+of Orbell. The house was subsequently used as a boarding-school.</p>
+
+<p>On the eastern side of Church Street are the barracks and one or two
+large houses. In Maitland House lived James Mill, author of the "History
+of India," and father of the better known J. S. Mill. There is a tablet
+to his memory on one of the pillars in the church. York House was, as
+has been said, the home of Princess Sophia, who died here in 1848. This
+house is now to be demolished.</p>
+
+<p>Church Street sweeps to the west a little further on, and at the corner
+stands a Roman Catholic orphanage, where fifty or sixty girls are
+provided for. There is a chapel within the walls, and night-schools are
+held, which are attended by children from outside. The continuation of
+the road northward, which becomes Brunswick Gardens, was made in 1877,
+and as the old vicarage stood right in the way it had to be pulled down.
+Bowack says that the vicarage was "valued yearly in the Queen's [Queen
+Anne's] Book at &pound;18 18s. 4d., but is supposed to be worth near &pound;400 per
+annum." In Vicarage Gate northward is a small church (St. Paul's) served
+by the clergy of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> St. Mary Abbots. The origin of the name Mall in this
+part of Kensington is not definitely ascertained. It of course refers to
+the game so popular in the reign of the Stuarts, and there may have been
+a ground here, but there is no reference to it in contemporary records.
+In the Mall there is New Jerusalem Church, with an imposing portico. It
+was formerly a Baptist Church, and was bought by the Swedenborgians in
+1872. A bright red-brick church of the Unitarians is a little further
+on. Behind the Mall is Kensington Palace Gardens&mdash;really a slice of the
+Gardens&mdash;a wide road with immense houses, correctly designated mansions,
+standing back in their own grounds. This road is only open to ordinary
+traffic on sufferance, and is liable to be closed at any time.</p>
+
+<p>The part of Kensington lying to the west of Church Street and extending
+to Notting Hill Gate was that formerly known as the Gravel Pits, and
+considered particularly healthy on account of its dry soil and bracing
+air. Bowack says that here there are "several handsome new-built houses,
+and of late years has been discovered a chalybeate spring." Swift had
+lodgings at the Gravel Pits between 1712 and 1713, and Anne Pitt, sister
+of Lord Chatham, one of the bright bevy of Queen Caroline's maids of
+honour, is reported to have died at her house at the Gravel Pits in
+1780.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The most celebrated house here was Campden House, completely rebuilt
+fifty years ago, and entirely demolished within the last two years. Old
+Campden House was called after Sir Baptist Hicks, created Viscount
+Campden. It is said that he won the land on which it stands from Sir
+Walter Cope at a game, and thereupon built the house. This is the
+generally accepted version of the affair, but it is probable that there
+was some sort of a house standing here already. Bowack says: "Two
+houses, called Holland and Campden Houses, were built ... by Mr. Cope
+... erected before the death of Queen Elizabeth." And, again (quoting
+from the Rev. C. Seward), "The second seat called Campden House was
+purchased or won at some sort of game of Sir Walter Cope by Sir Baptist
+Hicks." He adds that it was a "very noble Pile and finished with all the
+art the Architects of that time were capable of." The mere fact of such
+a prize being won at a game of chance was likely enough in the days when
+gaming ran high. Lysons, on the other hand, distinctly says that the
+house "was built about 1612 by Sir Baptist Hicks, whose arms with that
+date and those of his sons-in-law, Edward, Lord Noel, and Sir Charles
+Morrison, are in a large bay-window in the front." It is most probable
+that Sir Baptist, on taking over the estate and the house then existing,
+so restored it as to amount<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> to an almost complete rebuilding. He was
+created Viscount Campden in 1628, with remainder to Lord Noel, who
+succeeded him. Lord Noel's son, Baptist, the third Viscount, had
+Royalist tendencies, for which he was mulcted in the sum of &pound;9,000
+during the Rebellion. He married for his fourth wife Elizabeth, daughter
+of the Earl of Lindsey, and the Earl himself died at Campden House. The
+title went to Viscount Campden's eldest son Edward, who was created Earl
+of Gainsborough, and in default of male issue it afterwards reverted to
+his younger brother. The house itself had been settled on another son,
+Henry, who died before his father, leaving a daughter, who married
+Richard Boyle, third Earl of Burlington. Previous to this Queen (then
+Princess) Anne had taken the house for five years on account of her only
+surviving child, William Henry, Duke of Gloucester. There are few
+stories in history more pathetic than that of this poor little Prince,
+the only one of Anne's seventeen children who survived infancy. With his
+unnaturally large head and rickety legs, he would in these days have
+been kept from all intellectual effort, and been obliged to lie down the
+greater part of his time. But in that age drastic treatment was in
+favour, and the already precocious child was crammed with knowledge,
+while his sickly little frame was compelled to undergo rigorous
+disci<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>pline. He was a boy of no small degree of character, and with
+martial tastes touching in one so feeble. He died at the age of eleven
+of small-pox, not at Kensington, and perhaps it was as well for him
+that, with such inordinate sensibility and such a constitution, he did
+not live to inherit his mother's throne. His servant Lewis, who was
+devotedly attached to him, wrote a little biography of him, which is one
+of the curiosities of literature.</p>
+
+<p>In 1704 the Dowager-Countess of Burlington came here with her son
+Richard, then only a boy, afterwards famous as an architect and art
+lover. In 1719 the house was sold, and came into possession of the
+Lechmere family. It did not remain with them long, but was purchased by
+Stephen Pitt, who let it as a school. In 1862 it was partially destroyed
+by fire. It was then bought by the Metropolitan Railway Company, who
+rebuilt it, and let it to tenants. Later on a charmingly-built row of
+houses and mansions rose up on its grounds to face Sheffield Terrace.
+The appearance of the later house was very different from that of the
+old one, and the arms mentioned by Lysons as being over a front window
+had quite disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Little Campden House, on the western side, was built for the suite of
+the Princess Anne, and Stephen Pitt occupied this himself when he let<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+Campden House. It was latterly divided into two houses; one was called
+Lancaster Lodge, and the other, after being renovated and redecorated,
+was taken by Vicat Cole, R.A., until his death.</p>
+
+<p>Gloucester Walk, on the south side, is, of course, called after the poor
+little Duke. Sheffield Gardens and Terrace, as well as Berkeley Gardens,
+stand on the site of old Sheffield House. Leigh Hunt says that the house
+was owned by Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire, but he adduces no fact
+in support of his assertion; in any case, there are no historical
+associations connected with it.</p>
+
+<p>In Observatory Gardens Sir James South, the astronomer, had a house,
+where there was a large observatory. He mounted an equatorial telescope
+in the grounds, by the use of which, some years previously, he and Sir
+J. Herschel had made a catalogue of 380 binary stars. He strenuously
+resisted any opening up of the district by road or rail, lest the
+vibrations of traffic should interfere with his delicate observations
+and render them useless. He died here in 1867. On the south side of
+Campden Hill Gardens are a number of houses standing in their own
+grounds, and, from the rank of their residents, this part has gained the
+name of the "Dukeries." Holly Lodge was named Airlie Lodge for a few
+years when tenanted by the Earl of Airlie, but reverted to the older
+name afterwards. Airlie Gardens is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> a reminiscence of the interlude.
+Lord Macaulay lived for the three years preceding his death in Holly
+Lodge.</p>
+
+<p>Holland Lane is a shady footpath running right over the hill from
+Kensington Road to Notting Hill Gate; it passes the wall of Aubrey
+House, once the manor-house of Notting Hill. Though the name is a
+comparatively new one, the house is old and, to use the favourite word
+of older writers, much "secluded"; it is shut in from observation by its
+high wall and by the shady trees surrounding it. The building is very
+picturesque and the garden charming, yet many people pass it daily and
+never know of its existence.</p>
+
+<p>St. George's Church, Campden Hill Road, dates from 1864; the interior is
+spoilt by painted columns and heavy galleries, but the stained glass at
+the east end is very richly coloured, and there is a carved stone
+reredos. The tower is high, but it is dwarfed by the tower of the Grand
+Junction Waterworks near at hand. Across Campden Hill Road is the
+reservoir of the West Middlesex Water Company, which, from its
+commanding elevation, supplies a large district by the power of
+gravitation.</p>
+
+<p>Holland Park is a great irregular oblong, extending from Kensington Road
+on the south very nearly to Holland Park Road on the north.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> Its average
+length is little more than a mile, and it varies from five-eighths of a
+mile in its widest part to a quarter of a mile in the narrowest.</p>
+
+<p>In the summary of the history of Kensington, at the beginning of the
+book, it was mentioned that when Sir Walter Cope bought the manor at the
+end of the sixteenth century, Robert Horseman had the lease of the
+Abbot's manor-house, and being unwilling to part with it, he made a
+compromise by which he was to be still permitted to live there. Sir
+Walter Cope had, therefore, no suitable manor-house, so in 1607 he built
+Holland House, which at first went by the name of Cope Castle. He died
+seven years later, leaving his widow in possession, but on her
+re-marriage, in another seven years, the house came to Cope's daughter
+Isabel, who had married Sir Henry Rich. He was created Lord Kensington a
+year later, and in 1624 made Earl of Holland. He added considerably to
+the house, which was henceforth known by his name. Holland was a younger
+son of the Earl of Warwick, and after his execution for having taken
+arms in the cause of Charles I., this title descended, through lack of
+heirs in the elder branch, to his son, as well as that of Earl of
+Holland.</p>
+
+<p>The house was seized by the Commonwealth, and the Parliamentary
+Generals, Fairfax and Lambert, lived there. Timbs quotes from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+<i>Perfect Diurnal</i>, July 9 to 16, 1649: "The Lord-General Fairfax is
+removed from Queen Street to the late Earl of Holland's house at
+Kensington, where he intends to reside." The house was restored to its
+rightful owners at the Restoration. The widowed Countess seems later to
+have let it, for there were several notable tenants, among whom was Sir
+Charles Chardin, the traveller, who went to Persia with the avowed
+intention of seeking a fortune, which he certainly gained, in addition
+to unexpected celebrity. He died in 1735, and is buried at Chiswick.
+Afterwards, William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was a tenant of
+Holland House; the name of Van Dyck has also been mentioned in this
+connection, but there is not sufficient evidence to make it more than a
+tradition.</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Addison married the widow of the sixth Earl of Holland and
+Warwick in 1716. He was an old family friend and had known her long, yet
+the experiment did not turn out satisfactorily. The Countess was
+something of a termagant, and it is said that to escape from her he
+often went to the White Horse inn at the corner of Lord Holland's Lane
+and there enjoyed "his favourite dish&mdash;a fillet of veal&mdash;his bottle, and
+perhaps a friend." His married life was of very short duration, only
+three years, but his brief residence at Holland House has added to its
+associations more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> richly than all the names of preceding times. Addison
+had attempted from the first to influence the young Earl, whose
+stepfather he became, and some of his letters to the youth are
+singularly charming, but his care seems to have been ill-requited, and
+the famous death-bed scene, in which the man of letters sent for the
+dissolute young Earl to "see how a Christian can die," was as much in
+the nature of a rebuke as a warning. Addison left only one daughter, who
+died unmarried. The last earl died in 1759, leaving no male heir, and
+the title became extinct.</p>
+
+<p>Through an Elizabeth Rich, who had married Francis Edwardes, the estates
+passed into the Edwardes family, by whom they were sold to Henry Fox,
+second son of Sir Stephen Fox, Paymaster-General of the Forces in the
+reign of Charles II., through whose exertions it was in great part that
+Chelsea Hospital was built. Henry Fox followed in his father's steps,
+becoming Paymaster-General under George II., and was created Baron
+Holland in 1763. His second son was the famous statesman Charles James
+Fox. Thus, after the lapse of about four years only, the old title was
+revived in an entirely different family. Henry Fox's elder brother was
+created first Baron, and then Earl, of Ilchester, which is the title of
+the present owner of Holland House.</p>
+
+<p>The plan of the house is that of a capital letter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> E with the centre
+stroke extremely small, and was designed by Thorpe, but added to by
+Inigo Jones and others. Sir Walter Cope's building in 1607 included the
+centre block and two porches, and the first Earl of Holland, between the
+years 1725 and 1735, added the two wings and the arcades. It is in a
+good style of Elizabethan domestic architecture, and within is full of
+nooks and corners and unexpected galleries, betraying that variety which
+can only come from growth, and is never the result of a set plan. The
+rooms are magnificent, and are exceptionally rich in their fittings and
+collections&mdash;collections by various owners which have made the whole
+house a museum. On the ground floor are the Breakfast, China, Map,
+Journal, and Print rooms&mdash;the last three known as the West
+Rooms&mdash;Allen's Room, and the White Parlour. On the first floor the most
+important rooms are the Gilt, Miniature, and the Yellow Drawing-room,
+the Sir Joshua Blue-room and Dining-room, and Lady Holland's apartments.</p>
+
+<p>In the entrance-hall are busts of the Duke of Cumberland, by Rysbrach;
+Francis, Duke of Bedford, and Charles James Fox, by Nollekens; the Right
+Hon. J. Hookham Frere, by Chantrey, and others. The staircase has a
+frescoed ceiling, by G. F. Watts, R.A., who has done much for the
+decoration of the house, and who lives in Melbury<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> Road hard by. There
+is on the staircase a massive oaken screen with pillars, matching the
+carved balustrade. The Breakfast-room, facing south, is a charming room;
+it was formerly the hall when the main entrance was on this side of the
+house. The walls are hung with velvet brocade and rich silk, and
+panelled with four <i>arazzi</i>, enclosed in strips of gold embroidery. The
+tapestries are Gobelins, by Coypel, director of the Gobelin
+establishment. The China-room contains some splendid services, chiefly
+of S&egrave;vres and Dresden. The rooms called the West Rooms contain many
+treasures: a collection of prints after Italian masters, and some of the
+Dutch and French schools. From these is reached the Swannery, a large
+room on the west side of the house, built by the present owner, and
+finished in 1891; here there is an ornamental painting of swans by
+Bouverie Goddard, which was exhibited in the Royal Academy. Allen's Room
+owes its name to John Allen, an intimate friend of the third Lord
+Holland, who accompanied him abroad, and was his confidant until his
+death, after which Allen continued to live at Holland House. The
+description of the White Parlour in any detail would be impossible, so
+elaborate is the decoration of its mouldings and panels. In this room
+there are two chests, the property of Sir Stephen Fox, the
+Paymaster-General, and very interesting speci<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>mens of their time they
+are. In the Gilt Room upstairs are curved recesses prepared by the first
+Earl of Holland, who proposed entertaining Prince Charles at a ball when
+he married Princess Henrietta Maria; however, in spite of the elaborate
+preparations, the ball never took place. The medallions of the King and
+Queen, Sully, and Henri IV. are still on the lower part of the
+chimney-breasts. The upper parts of the chimneypieces and the ceiling
+were done by Francis Cleyn, who decorated much at Versailles; and when
+the chimneypieces came down, in 1850, G. F. Watts, R.A., painted the
+gilt figures on the upper portions. The gilding and decoration of all
+the rest of the room have never been touched since Charles I.'s day. The
+ceiling is, however, modern, copied from one at Melbury of date 1602.
+The Sir Joshua Room would probably be more attractive to many people
+than any other in the house; there is here the "Vision of St. Anthony,"
+by Murillo, also a Velasquez, two Teniers, and many portraits by Sir
+Joshua, including those of Charles James Fox, the first Lord Holland,
+Mary, Lady Holland, and Lady Sarah Lennox, whose "Life and Letters" have
+been edited by Lady Ilchester and her son, Lord Stavordale. In the
+Addison or dining room there are several other portraits and more china,
+including the famous Chelsea service presented by the proprietors of the
+Chelsea Company to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> Dr. Johnson in recognition of his laborious and
+unsuccessful efforts to learn their trade. From here we can pass to the
+library, a long gallery running the whole width of the house, as a
+library should do. Besides ordinary books, the library contains
+priceless treasures, such as a collection of Elzevirs, a collection of
+Spanish literature, a MS. book with the handwritings of Savonarola,
+Petrarch, several autograph letters of Philip II., III., and IV. of
+Spain, and autographs of D. Hume, Byron, Sir D. Wilkie, Moore, Rogers,
+Campbell, Sir W. Scott, Southey, and foreigners of note, as Madame de
+Stael, Cuvier, Buffon, Voltaire, etc.</p>
+
+<p>From the Yellow Drawing-room, in which, among other things, is a curious
+picture representing one eye of Lady Holland, by Watts, the Miniature
+Room is reached: miniature in two senses, for, besides containing an
+assortment of miniatures, it is very small. The miniatures are mostly
+Cosways, Plymers, and Coopers. On January 10, 1871, Holland House caught
+fire, and the chief rooms that suffered were those known as Lady
+Holland's Rooms, on this side. Luckily the fire did not do much damage,
+and all trace of it was speedily effaced.</p>
+
+<p>Holland House is not shown to the public, and few persons have any idea
+of the treasures it contains; to live in such a house must be a liberal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+education. It can hardly be seen at all in summer on account of the
+extent of the grounds of 55 acres stretching around it, and making it a
+country place in the midst of a town. It has the largest private grounds
+of any house in London, not excepting Buckingham Palace, yet from the
+road all that can be seen is a rather dreary field. Oddly enough, there
+is a considerable hill on the west, though no trace of this hill is to
+be found in Kensington Road; it is, however, the same fall that affects
+Holland Park Avenue on the north. Besides the fine elms bordering the
+avenue, there are a variety of other trees in the grounds, among them
+many cedars, still flourishing, though beginning to show the effects of
+the London smoke. Excepting for the Dutch Garden, with its prim, though
+fantastically-designed flower-beds, there is little attempt at formal
+gardening. Here stands the seat used by the poet Rogers, on which is the
+inscription:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Here Rogers sat, and here for ever dwell<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With me those 'Pleasures' which he sang so well."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>An ivy-covered arcade leads to the conservatory, and various buildings
+form a picturesque group near; these belonged at one time to the
+stables, now removed. Not far off is the bamboo garden, in a flourishing
+condition, with large clumps of feathery bamboos bravely enduring our
+rough climate; in another part is a succes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>sion of terraces, through
+which a stream runs downhill through a number of basins linked by a
+circling channel; the basins are covered with water-lilies, and the
+whole is laid out in imitation of a Japanese garden. Alpine plants are
+specially tended in another part, and masses of rhododendrons grow
+freely in the grounds, giving warmth and shelter. There is nothing stiff
+or conventional to be seen&mdash;Nature tended and cared for, but Nature
+herself is allowed to reign, and the result is very satisfactory. There
+are many fascinating peeps between the rows of shrubs or trees of the
+worn red brick of the house, seen all the better for its contrast with
+the deep evergreen of the cedars.</p>
+
+<p>In a field close by Cromwell is said to have discussed his plans with
+Ireton, whose deafness necessitated loud tones, so that the open air,
+where possible listeners could be seen at a distance, was preferable to
+the four walls of a room. In the fields behind Holland House was fought
+a notable duel in 1804 between Lord Camelford, a notorious duellist, and
+Captain Best, R.N. Lord Camelford fired first, but missed his opponent.
+He afterwards fell at Best's shot, and was carried into Little Holland
+House, where he died in three days. The exact spot where the duel was
+fought is now enclosed in the grounds of Oak Lodge, and is marked by a
+stone altar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>To the west of Holland House is Melbury Road, a neighbourhood famous for
+its artistic residents. The houses, mostly of glowing red brick, are
+built in different styles, as if each had been designed to fill its own
+place without reference to its neighbours. A curious Gothic house, with
+a steeple on the north side, was designed by William Burges, R.A., for
+himself. In the house next to it, now the residence of Luke Fildes,
+R.A., King Cetewayo stayed while he was in England. Sir Frederick
+Leighton, P.R.A., lived at No. 2, which has been presented to the
+nation. Little Holland House, otherwise No. 6, Melbury Road, is occupied
+by G. F. Watts, R.A. The name was adopted from the original Little
+Holland House, which stood at the end of Nightingale Lane, now the back
+entrance to Holland Park; this house was pulled down when Melbury Road
+was made.</p>
+
+<p>Melbury Road turns into Addison Road just below the church of St.
+Barnabas, which is of white brick, and has a parapet and four corner
+towers, which give it a distinctive appearance. The interior is
+disappointing, but there is a fine eastern window, divided by a transom,
+and having seven compartments above and below. Quite at the northern end
+of Holland Road is the modern church of St. John the Baptist; the
+interior is all of white stone, and the effect is very good.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> There is a
+rose window at the west end, and a carved stone chancel screen of great
+height. The church ends in an apse, and has a massive stone reredos set
+with coloured panels representing the saints. All this part of
+Kensington which lies to the west of Addison Road is very modern. In the
+1837 map, St. Barnabas Church, built seven years earlier, and a line of
+houses on the east side of the northern part of Holland Road, are all
+that are marked. Near the continuation of Kensington Road there are a
+few houses, and there is a farm close to the Park.</p>
+
+<p>Curzon House is marked near the Kensington Road, and a large nursery
+garden is at the back of it; and further north, where Addison Road
+bends, there are Addison Cottage and Bindon Villa, and this is all.
+Addison's connection with Holland House of course accounts for the free
+use of his name in this quarter.</p>
+
+<p>Going northward, we come to the district of Shepherd's Bush and the
+Uxbridge Road, known in the section of its course between Notting Hill
+High Street and Uxbridge Road Station as Holland Park Avenue&mdash;a fact of
+which probably none but the residents are aware. Above it, Norland Road
+forms the western boundary of the borough. Royal Crescent is marked on
+the maps of the beginning of the nineteenth century as Norland Crescent;
+Addison Road was then Norland<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Road. Further westward is the square of
+the same name, on the site of old Norland House.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 526px;">
+<a href="images/map_1.jpg"><img src="images/thumb_map_1.jpg" width="526" height="600" alt="KENSINGTON DISTRICT--SOUTH HALF." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">KENSINGTON DISTRICT--SOUTH HALF.
+<br />
+Published by A. &amp; C. Black, London.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Addison Road leads up to St. James's Church, designed by Vulliamy, and
+consecrated in 1845; it has a square tower of considerable height, with
+a pinnacle at each corner. The chancel was added later. St. Gabriel's,
+in Clifton Road, is an offshoot of this church, but, curiously enough,
+it does not come within the parochial boundaries. It was built in 1883.
+Following the road on the north side of the square, we pass the West
+London Tabernacle, a brick building in the late Romanesque style. Close
+by are St. James's Schools.</p>
+
+<p>St. John's Place leads us past Pottery Lane, a reminiscence of the
+potteries once here, round which sprang up a notoriously bad district.
+The brickfields were hard by, and the long, low, red-tiled roofs of the
+brick-sheds face a space of open ground known as Avondale Park. The Park
+stands on a piece of ground formerly known as Adam's Brickfield. It was
+suggested at one time that this should be used for the site of a
+refuse-destroyer, but it was bought instead by the Vestry for the sum of
+&pound;9,200 to be turned into a public park. The late Metropolitan Board of
+Works provided &pound;4,250 towards the sum, and the Metropolitan Public
+Gardens and Open Spaces Association gave &pound;2,000. The laying-out of the
+ground,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> which covers about 4&frac12; acres, cost &pound;8,000 more, and the Park
+was formally opened June 2, 1892, though it had been informally open to
+the public for more than a year before this date. The most has been made
+of the ground, which includes two large playgrounds, provided with
+swings, ropes, seesaws, etc., for the children of the neighbouring
+schools, who come here to the number of three or four hundred. Just at
+the back of the Park, on the west side, lie St. Clement's Board Schools,
+and on the east St. John's Church Schools. Returning through Pottery
+Lane, we see facing us at the upper end large brick schools covered with
+Virginia creeper, adjacent to a small brick Gothic church. This is the
+church of St. Francis, a Roman Catholic Mission Church, in connection
+with St. Mary of the Angels, in Westmoreland Road. It was built about
+thirty-three years ago by Rev. D. Rawes at his own cost, and contains
+some very beautiful panels on slate by Westlake representing the
+Stations of the Cross, which were the first done on that material in
+England. There is also a painting by the same artist on the pulpit. The
+baptistery, added later, was designed by Bentley, the late architect of
+the new cathedral at Westminster. The schools adjacent are for girls and
+infants, and the boys are accommodated at the buildings in the
+Silchester Road.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Hippodrome Place leads past the north side of the school to Portland
+Road. A great part of the district lying to the east of this, and
+including Clarendon Road, Portobello Road, and Ladbroke Grove, was
+formerly covered by an immense racecourse called the Hippodrome. It
+stretched northward in a great ellipse, and then trended north-west and
+ended up roughly where is now the Triangle, at the west end of St.
+Quintin Avenue. It was used for both flat racing and steeplechasing, and
+the steeplechase course was more than two miles in length. The place was
+very popular, being within easy reach of London, but the ground was
+never very good for the purpose, as it was marshy. The Hippodrome was
+opened in 1837, and Count d'Orsay was one of the stewards; the last race
+took place in 1841. St. John's Church stands on a hill, once a grassy
+mound within the Hippodrome enclosure, which is marked in a contemporary
+map "Hill for pedestrians," apparently a sort of natural grand-stand.
+The Church was consecrated in 1845, four years after the closing of the
+racecourse. The entrance to the racecourse was in what is now Park Road,
+just above Ladbroke Road, near the Norbury Chapel. The district,
+therefore, all dates from the latter half of the nineteenth century; it
+is well laid out, with broad streets and large houses, though north of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+Lansdowne Road the quarter is not so good. It is very difficult to find
+anything interesting to record of this part of Kensington; a
+perambulation there must be, or the borough would be left incompletely
+described, but such a perambulation can only resolve itself into a
+catalogue of churches and schools. Ladbroke Grove goes down the steep
+hill above noticed. St Mark's Church gives its name to the road in which
+it stands: it was consecrated in 1863.</p>
+
+<p>Northward, at the corner of Lancaster Road, stands a fine Wesleyan
+chapel in the Early English style, with quatrefoil and cinquefoil stone
+tracery in the windows. It is built of white brick and has large schools
+below. The foundation stone was laid in 1879 and the church opened May
+20, 1880. Very nearly opposite to it are the large brick buildings of
+the Kensington Public Baths. Between the Lancaster and Walmer Roads we
+come again to the very poor district extending from the Potteries. In
+Fowell Street there is a square, yellow brick Primitive Methodist
+chapel, with a stone stating that it was founded "Aug. 2nd, 1864, by J.
+Fowell, who gave the land." Fowell Street leads into Bomore Road, at the
+corner of which stands Notting Dale Chapel; this is a plain brick
+building founded in 1851. In the other direction, westward, Bomore Road
+takes us past the top of St. Clement's Road,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> and turning into this we
+pass St. Clement's Church, opened in 1867. It is a plain yellow and red
+brick building, but the walls of the chancel are decorated, and there is
+a pretty east window. The parish contains 12,000 people, and is one of
+the poorest in London, not even excepting the worst of the East End.</p>
+
+<p>Mary Place is at right angles to St. Clement's Road, and in this there
+is a supplementary workhouse. It contains the relief office, large
+casual wards, the able-bodied workhouse, and a Poor Law Dispensary.
+Opposite are large Board Schools; the Roman Catholic Schools in the
+Silchester Road have been already mentioned in connection with the
+Catholic Schools of St. Francis. On the northern side of Silchester Road
+is the Notting Barn Tavern, which stands on the site of the old Notting
+Barns Farm. Beyond Walmer Road, northwards, are a few rows of houses,
+and a Board School, and a great stretch of common reaching to St.
+Quintin Avenue. The backs of the houses in Latimer Road are seen across
+the common on the west; these houses, however, lie without the
+Kensington boundary line. A road called St. Helen's Gardens bounds the
+common on the east, and leads to St. Helen's Church, which is a severely
+plain red-brick building. North of St. Quintin Avenue is another great
+stretch of common, and at its south-eastern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> corner lies St. Charles's
+Square. The square was named after St. Charles's College, a Roman
+Catholic establishment, which forms an imposing mass at the east side.
+The College was founded by Cardinal Manning. It was humble in its
+origin, beginning in 1863 with a few young boys in a room near the
+church of St. Mary of the Angels, Bayswater. Other houses were taken as
+necessity arose, and in 1872 the numbers were so great that the question
+of building a suitable college arose. There was at first a difficulty
+about obtaining the freehold of the site desired&mdash;that on which the
+present building stands&mdash;but this was overcome eventually, and the whole
+cost of the College came to about &pound;40,000. It stands in a square of 11
+acres, and was finished in 1874. The building is of red brick with stone
+facings, and is ornamented by figures of saints; it is about 300 feet in
+extent. In the centre is a tower, rising to a height of 140 feet, on
+which are the Papal Tiara and Crossed Keys. A corridor runs nearly the
+length of the building inside. On the laying-out of the recreation
+grounds and gardens between one and two thousand pounds has been spent.</p>
+
+<p>The object of the College is to bring education within the reach of all
+scholars at a moderate cost. The students do not necessarily become
+priests, but enter various professions, and in 1890 it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> reckoned
+that no less than 1,200 youths had passed through the curriculum. A
+museum and library are among the rooms. And standing as it does on the
+outskirts of London, with much open ground in the vicinity, the building
+is very favourably situated for its purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Over the garden walls of the College we see the high buildings of the
+Marylebone Infirmary. Further northward are the western gasworks, and
+just beyond them the well-known cemetery of Kensal Green. The principal
+entrance is a great stone gateway of the Doric order with iron gates in
+the Harrow Road. Avenues of young lime-trees, chestnuts, and tall
+Lombardy poplars line the walks, between which a straight central
+roadway leads to the church at the west end. The multitude of tombstones
+within the cemetery is bewildering. On either side of the way are
+immense sepulchres of granite, marble, or stone. Some in the Gothic
+style resemble small chapels; others, again, are in an Egyptian style.
+The church and the long colonnades of the catacombs are built in the
+same way as the gateway. The cemetery contains 77 acres, and the first
+burial took place in 1833. The grave of the founder, with a stone
+inscribed "George Frederick Carden, died 1874, aged 76," lies not far
+from the chapel, with a plain slab at the head.</p>
+
+<p>The roll of those buried here includes many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> illustrious names: The Duke
+of Sussex, died 1843, and the Princess Sophia, died 1848, both of whom
+we have already met in another part of Kensington; Anne Scott and Sophia
+Lockhart, daughters of Sir W. Scott; his son-in-law, J. G. Lockhart;
+Allan Cunningham, died 1842; Rev. Sydney Smith, died 1845; W. Mackworth
+Praed, 1839; Tom Hood, died 1845; I. K. Brunel, died 1859; Charles
+Kemble, died, 1854; Leigh Hunt, died 1859; W. M. Thackeray, died 1863;
+J. Leech, died 1863; Sir Charles Eastlake, P.R.A., died 1865; Charles
+Babbage, P.R.S., died 1871; Anthony Trollope, died 1882; besides many
+others distinguished in literature, art, or science.</p>
+
+<p>The name Kensal possibly owes its derivation to the same source as
+Kensington, but there is no certainty in the matter.</p>
+
+<p>The Grand Junction Canal runs along the south side of the cemetery, and
+the borough boundary cuts across it at Ladbroke Grove Road. There is a
+Roman Catholic church in Bosworth Road; it is of red brick, with pointed
+windows, and is called Our Lady of the Holy Souls. The mission was
+established here in 1872, and the present building opened in 1882. In
+the interior the arches and pillars are of white stone, and the
+altar-piece is a large coloured panel painting. In Bosworth Road,
+further southward, there is a very small Baptist chapel with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> plaster
+front. The church of St. Andrew and St. Philip stands to the east in
+Golborne Gardens. It was built in 1869, and is of red brick with stone
+facings in the French Gothic style. In the upper or northern part of
+Mornington Road, on the eastern side, is a large Board School, where
+special instruction is given to blind, or partially blind, children. On
+the opposite side, slightly further up, is Christ Church, a model of
+simplicity, and within it is light, lofty, and well proportioned. It has
+a narthex at the east end. The font is a solid block of red-veined
+Devonshire marble. The church was founded in August, 1880, and
+consecrated May 14, 1881.</p>
+
+<p>In Golborne Road we pass a plaster-fronted brick chapel
+(Congregational). The Portobello Road is of immense length, running
+north-west and south-east. This quarter is not so aristocratic as its
+high-sounding name would lead us to infer. Faulkner gives us the origin
+of the name. "Near the turnpike is Porto Bello Lane, leading to the farm
+so called, which was the property of Mr. A. Adams, the builder, at the
+time that Porto Bello was captured." He adds: "This is one of the most
+rural and pleasant walks in the summer in the vicinity of London." So
+much could not be said now, for in the lower part the road is very
+narrow and is lined with inferior shops. The Porto Bello Farm seems to
+have stood almost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> exactly on the site of the present St. Joseph's Home
+for the Aged Poor, which is just below the entrance of the Golborne
+Road, and is on the east side. This is a large brick building, in which
+many aged men and women are supported by the contributions collected
+daily by the Sisters. It is a Roman Catholic institution, and was
+founded by a Frenchman in 1861, but the benefits of the charity are not
+confined to Roman Catholics. It was humble in its origin, beginning in a
+private house in Sutherland Avenue. The present building was erected for
+the purpose when the charity increased in size. There is a chapel in
+connection with the building. Exactly opposite is the Franciscan
+Convent, with its appendage, the Elizabeth Home for Girls. The building,
+of brick, looks older than that of St. Joseph's. Behind the convent runs
+St. Lawrence's Road, between which and Ladbroke Grove Road stands the
+church of St. Michael and All Angels, founded in 1870, and consecrated
+the following year. It is of brick, in the Romanesque style, forming a
+contrast to the numerous so-called Gothic churches in the parish.</p>
+
+<p>If we continue southwards, either by Portobello or Ladbroke Grove Roads,
+we pass under the Hammersmith and City Junction Railway, carried
+overhead by bridges. Ladbroke Hall stands south of the bridge in
+Ladbroke Grove,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> and a large Board School in Portobello Road. A little
+further south in Ladbroke Grove is a branch of the Kensington Public
+Library, opened temporarily in the High Street, January, 1888, and
+established here October, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>In Cornwall Road is the entrance to the Convent of the Poor Clares,
+which is a large brick building, covering, with its grounds, 1&frac34;
+acres, and which was built for the convent purposes in 1859, having been
+founded by Cardinal (then Father) Manning. The nuns, numbering about
+thirty, are vowed to the contemplative life of prayer and manual labour
+in the service of God, but do no teaching or nursing, and there are no
+lay sisters. The next opening on the south side of Cornwall Road is
+Kensington Park Road, in which stands a Presbyterian church, built of
+light brick. On the north side of Cornwall Road is Basing Road, in which
+is a Congregational chapel of white brick. In Talbot Road we see the
+high lantern tower of All Saints' Church, founded in 1852, and
+consecrated 1861. Its tower is supposed to resemble the belfry of
+Bruges, and is 100 feet in height. The mission church of St. Columb's at
+Notting Hill Station is in connection with All Saints', and ministered
+to by the same clergy.</p>
+
+<p>A few yards further on in Talbot Road is the entrance to the Talbot
+Tabernacle. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> building stands back from the road, behind iron gates,
+and is faced with blazing red brick, while over the doorways is a
+profusion of ornamental moulding.</p>
+
+<p>The streets lying to the south of Talbot Road require no particular
+comment. At the corner of Archer Street, Kensington Park Road takes a
+sudden south-easterly turn, and below the turn is St. Peter's Church,
+very different from the other churches in the district, being in the
+Italian style. It was consecrated January 7, 1876. The decoration of the
+interior is very elaborate, some of the pillars having gilded capitals.
+In Denbigh Road there is a stuccoed Wesleyan Methodist chapel, dated
+1856. Northward runs Norfolk Terrace, lately merged in Westbourne Grove.
+In it, at the corner of Ledbury Road, stands the Westbourne Grove
+Baptist Chapel, a fine gray stone building with two southern steeple
+towers.</p>
+
+<p>The southern end of Pembridge Road is joined at an angle by Kensington
+Park Road, and at the corner stands Horbury Congregational Chapel,
+founded in August, 1848. It is built of gray stone and stands in a good
+position. Nos. 1 to 15, Clanricarde Gardens, and six shops in Notting
+Hill High Street, belong to the poor of Kensington; they are built on
+land given to the parish by an anonymous benefactor in 1652. This is
+known as Cromwell's gift, but there is not the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> smallest evidence to
+show that Cromwell was the donor. Lysons mentions the tradition, but
+confesses there is no evidence to support it.</p>
+
+<p>And now we have traversed Kensington from end to end, and in so doing
+have come across many notable men and many fair women. Kensington is
+royal among suburbs on account of its Palace, and its annals include
+history as well as the anecdotes of great men. Yet though old
+associations live in name and tradition, none of the buildings, as at
+present standing, date back further than the older parts of Holland
+House and Kensington Palace, and the greater part are much more modern.
+The zenith of Kensington's popularity was not reached until after the
+Hanoverian Sovereigns sat on the English throne, and this is a mere
+nothing in time compared with that enjoyed by some parts of outer
+London&mdash;for instance, Chelsea. That there should be so much to say about
+the district, in spite of its comparative youth, shows how richly it has
+been peopled. Statesmen, men of letters, royalties, court beauties, and
+divines we have met. One of the greatest of our novelists and our
+greatest philosopher were closely connected with Kensington, and the
+tour made around the borough may fitly rival in interest any but those
+taken in the very heart of London.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Abbot's Manor, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>&quot;Adam and Eve,&quot; <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Addison, Joseph, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Addison Road, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Albert Gate, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Albert Hall, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Albert Memorial, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+<li>Alexandra House, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Allen Street, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Anne, Queen, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Aubrey House, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Bangor, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Barker, Christopher, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Barracks, The, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Blessington, Lady, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Boltons, The, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Boyle, Richard, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Bray, Sir Reginald, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Brompton, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>Brompton Cemetery, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Brompton Grove, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Brompton Heath, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Brompton Park, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Brompton Road, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Bront&euml;, Charlotte, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+<li>Brooks, Shirley, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Browning, Robert, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Brunswick Gardens, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Bullingham House, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li><a name="Burghley" id="Burghley"></a>Burghley, Lord, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Burleigh, John, <i>see also</i> <a href="#Burghley">Burghley</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Burlington, Earl of, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Burne-Jones, Sir E., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Camelford, Lord, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Campden House, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Campden, Viscount, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Canning, George, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Caroline, Queen, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Caroline the Illustrious, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Chardin, Sir Charles, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Chester, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Church Street, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Churches:
+  <ul class="IX">
+  <li>All Saints', Ennismore Gardens, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+  <li>All Saints', Notting Hill, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+  <li>Carmelite, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+  <li>Christ, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+  <li>Holy Trinity, Brompton, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+  <li>Holy Trinity, Kensington Gore, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+  <li>Horbury Chapel, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+  <li>New Jerusalem, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+  <li>Our Lady of Seven Dolours, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+  <li>Our Lady of the Holy Souls, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+  <li>Pro-Cathedral, The, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+  <li>St. Andrew and St. Philip, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></li>
+  <li>St. Augustine's, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+  <li>St. Barnabas, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+  <li>St. Clement's, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+  <li>St. Cuthbert's, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+  <li>St. Gabriel's, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+  <li>St. George's, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+  <li>St. Helen's, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+  <li>St. James's, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+  <li>St. John's, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+  <li>St. John the Baptist, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+  <li>St. Jude's, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+  <li>St. Mark's, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+  <li>St. Mary Abbots, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+  <li>St. Mary's, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+  <li>St. Mathias', <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+  <li>St. Michael and All Angels', <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+  <li>St. Paul's, Onslow Square, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+  <li>St. Paul's, Vicarage Gate, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+  <li>St. Peter's, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+  <li>St. Stephen's, Earl's Court, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+  <li>St. Stephen's, Gloucester Road, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+  <li>Talbot Tabernacle, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+  </ul></li>
+<li>Clarence, Duke of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>Clarkson, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Cobbett, William, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Colby, Sir T., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Cole, Vicat, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Coleherne Court, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Coleridge, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Colman, George, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Consumption Hospital, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Convent of the Assumption, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Convent of the Poor Clares, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Cope, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Cornwallis, Sir W., <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Crabbe, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Cranley Gardens, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Croker, Crofton, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell Gardens, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, Henry, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li><a name="Cromwell_House" id="Cromwell_House"></a>Cromwell House, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>De Vere Gardens, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Dickens, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Disraeli, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Dodington, William, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Donaldson Museum, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>D'Orsay, Count, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Downham, Simon, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Dukeries, The, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Earl's Court, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+<li>Earl's Court Exhibition, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Earl's Court Manor, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Edwardes Square, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+<li>Elliot, Lady, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Elphinstone, Dr., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Ely, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Ennismore Gardens, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Essex, William, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Evelyn, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Exhibition, Great, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Fairfax, General, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Finch, Sir Heneage, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+<li>Florida Tea-Gardens, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Flounder's Field, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Fowell Street, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li>Fox and Bull, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Fox, C. J., <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Fox, Henry, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Fox, Sir Stephen, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Franciscan Convent, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Free Library, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>French Embassy, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>Gainsborough, Earl of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>George I., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester, Duke of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester Lodge, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester Road, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Gloucester Walk, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Gordon, General, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+<li>Gore House, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Gravel Pits, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Great Exhibition, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+<li>Green, J. R., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Grenvilles, The, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Guizot, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Hale House, <i>see</i> <a href="#Cromwell_House">Cromwell House</a></li>
+<li>Half-way House, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Harrington, Earl of, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Herrington Road, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Hereford House, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+<li>Hervey, Hon. A. J., <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Hicks, Sir Baptist, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>High Street, Kensington, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Hippodrome, The, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Holland House, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>-<a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Holland Lane, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Holland Park, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Holly Lodge, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Home for Crippled Boys, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Hood, Tom, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Horseman, Robert, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Horticultural Gardens, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Horticultural Society, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Hudson, Mr., <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Hunt, Leigh, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Hunter, John, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Hyde, Manor of, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Ifield Road, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Ilchester, Earl of, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Imperial Institute, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Inchbald, Mrs., <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Jerdan, W., <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Jerrold, Douglas, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Jockey Club, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Kensal Green Cemetery, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Court, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Gardens, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Gore, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Grammar School, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Kensington House, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Manor, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Palace, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Palace Gardens, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Kensington Square, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Kent, Duke of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>Kent House, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Kingston, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Kingston House, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Knightsbridge, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Knightsbridge Green, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Knotting Barns, <i>see</i> <a href="#Notting_Barns">Notting Barns</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Ladbroke Grove, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li>Lambert, General, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Lancaster Lodge, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Landor, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Latimer, Lord, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Liston, John, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Little Campden House, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Little Chelsea, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Little Holland House, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Locke, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>London University, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Lowther Lodge, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Lytton, Bulwer, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Macaulay, Lord, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Macaulay, Zachary, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></li>
+<li>Maids of Honour, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Mall, The, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Marochetti, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Mary Place, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+<li>Mary, Queen, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Matthews, Charles, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Mazarin, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Melbury Road, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Michael's Grove, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Mill, James, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Mill, J. S., <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Millais, Sir J. E., <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Morland, George, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Murchison, Sir R., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Napoleon, Prince Louis, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Natural History Museum, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Newton, Sir Isaac, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Neyt, Manor of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Noel, Lord, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li><a name="Notting_Barns" id="Notting_Barns"></a>Notting Barns, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Notting Hill, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Observatory Gardens, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Onslow Square, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Oratory, The, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Ovington Square, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Oxford, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Oxford, Earls of, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Palace Gate, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Pater, Walter, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Paulet, Sir William, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Pelham Crescent, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Penn, William, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Phillimore Terrace, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Pitt, Stephen, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Pitt Street, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Portobello Road, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Portsmouth, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Pottery Lane, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>Princes Skating Club, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Priory Grove, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Queen's Gate, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Redcliffe Gardens, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Rich, Sir Henry, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Richmond, Countess of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Romilly, Sir S., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Royal College of Music, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Royal College of Science, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Royal Crescent, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Rutland Gate, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>St. Charles's College, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>St. Charles's Square, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>St. George's Union, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>St. Joseph's Home, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Scarsdale House, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Schools, Free, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Serpentine, The, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Shaftesbury, Earl of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Sheffield House, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Sheffield Terrace, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Sheridan, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Shower, Sir Bartholomew, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Sophia, Princess, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+<li><a name="South_Kensington_Museum" id="South_Kensington_Museum"></a>South Kensington Museum, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>South, Sir James, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Stair, Lord, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>State-rooms, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>Strathnairn, Statue of, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Talleyrand, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Tattersall, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Technical Institute, City and Guilds, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Thackeray, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Thistle Grove Lane, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Town Hall, The, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Uxbridge Road, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>Vere, Aubrey de, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Vestris, Madame, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Vicarage Gate, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Victoria and Albert Museum, <i>see</i> <a href="#South_Kensington_Museum">South Kensington</a></li>
+<li>Victoria, Queen, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Victoria Road, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Walwyn, William, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+<li>Ward, Sir E., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Warren, Sir G., <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Warwick, Countess of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Warwick, First Earl of, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Watts, G. F., <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Wellesley, Marquess, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>West Town, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Wilberforce, W., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Wilkes, John, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Wilkie, Sir D., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>William III., <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+<li>Winchester, Marquis of, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>Woolsthorpe House, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Wright's Lane, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Yates, Frederick, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>York, Frederick, Duke of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>Young Street, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h4>THE END</h4>
+
+
+<p class='center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 444px;">
+<a href="images/map_2.jpg"><img src="images/thumb_map_2.jpg" width="444" height="600" alt="KENSINGTON DISTRICT--NORTH HALF." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">KENSINGTON DISTRICT--NORTH HALF.
+<br />
+Published by A. &amp; C. Black, London.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Kensington District, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
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+Project Gutenberg's The Kensington District, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Kensington District
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Editor: Walter Besant
+
+Release Date: May 30, 2007 [EBook #21643]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE FASCINATION
+     OF LONDON
+
+THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT
+
+
+
+
+
+_IN THIS SERIES._
+
+Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each.
+
+
+THE STRAND DISTRICT.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+CHELSEA.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+KENSINGTON.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HOLLAND HOUSE.
+
+_Herbert Railton_]
+
+
+
+
+The Fascination of London
+
+KENSINGTON
+
+BY
+G. E. MITTON
+
+EDITED BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+
+LONDON
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+1903
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.
+
+As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."
+
+Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey should
+contain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by different
+persons, so that the history of each parish should be complete in
+itself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one in
+which he took the keenest interest. Enough has been done of this
+section to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in the
+meantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of the
+districts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to
+the local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the
+interest and the history of London lie in these street associations.
+
+The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history with
+the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.
+
+G. E. M.
+
+
+
+
+KENSINGTON
+
+
+When people speak of Kensington they generally mean a very small area
+lying north and south of the High Street; to this some might add South
+Kensington, the district bordering on the Cromwell and Brompton Roads,
+and possibly a few would remember to mention West Kensington as a
+far-away place, where there is an entrance to the Earl's Court
+Exhibition. But Kensington as a borough is both more and less than the
+above. It does not include all West Kensington, nor even the whole of
+Kensington Gardens, but it stretches up to Kensal Green on the north,
+taking in the cemetery, which is its extreme northerly limit.
+
+If we draw a somewhat wavering line from the west side of the cemetery,
+leaving outside the Roman Catholic cemetery, and continue from here to
+Uxbridge Road Station, thence to Addison Road Station, and thence again
+through West Brompton to Chelsea Station, we shall have traced roughly
+the western boundary of the borough. It covers an immense area, and it
+begins and ends in a cemetery, for at the south-western corner is the
+West London, locally known as the Brompton, Cemetery. In shape the
+borough is strikingly like a man's leg and foot in a top-boot. The
+western line already traced is the back of the leg, the Brompton
+Cemetery is the heel, the sole extends from here up Fulham Road and
+Walton Street, and ends at Hooper's Court, west of Sloane Street. This,
+it is true, makes a very much more pointed toe than is usual in a man's
+boot, for the line turns back immediately down the Brompton Road. It
+cuts across the back of Brompton Square and the Oratory, runs along
+Imperial Institute Road, and up Queen's Gate to Kensington Gore. Thence
+it goes westward to the Broad Walk, and follows it northward to the
+Bayswater Road. Thus we leave outside Kensington those essentially
+Kensington buildings the Imperial Institute and Albert Hall, and nearly
+all of Kensington Gardens. But we shall not omit an account of these
+places in our perambulation, which is guided by sense-limits rather than
+by arbitrary lines.
+
+The part left outside the borough, which is of Kensington, but not in
+it, has belonged from time immemorial to Westminster (see same series,
+_Westminster_, p. 2).
+
+If we continue the boundary-line we find it after the Bayswater Road
+very irregular, traversing Ossington Street, Chepstow Place, a bit of
+Westbourne Grove, Ledbury Road, St. Luke's Road, and then curving round
+on the south side of the canal for some distance before crossing it at
+Ladbroke Grove, and continuing in the Harrow Road to the western end of
+the cemetery from whence we started.
+
+The borough is surrounded on the west, south, and east respectively by
+Hammersmith, Chelsea, and Paddington, and the above boundaries, roughly
+given as they are, will probably be detailed enough for the purpose.
+
+The heart and core of Kensington is the district gathered around
+Kensington Square; this is the most redolent of interesting memories,
+from the days when the maids of honour lived in it to the present time,
+and in itself has furnished material for many a book. Close by in Young
+Street lived Thackeray, and the Square figures many times in his works.
+Further northward the Palace and Gardens are closely associated with the
+lives of our kings, from William III. onward. Northward above Notting
+Hill is a very poor district, poor enough to rival many an East-End
+parish. Associations cluster around Campden and Little Campden Houses,
+and the still existing Holland House, where gathered many who were
+notable for ability as well as high birth. To Campden House Queen Anne,
+then Princess, brought her sickly little son as to a country house at
+the "Gravel Pits," but the child never lived to inherit the throne. Not
+far off lived Sir Isaac Newton, the greatest philosopher the world has
+ever known, who also came to seek health in the fresh air of Kensington.
+
+The southern part of the borough is comparatively new. Within the last
+sixty years long lines of houses have sprung up, concealing beneath
+unpromising exteriors, such as only London houses can show, comfort
+enough and to spare. This is a favourite residential quarter, though we
+now consider it in, not "conveniently near," town. Snipe were shot in
+the marshes of Brompton, and nursery gardens spread themselves over the
+area now devoted to the museums and institute. It is rather interesting
+to read the summary of John Timbs, F.S.A., writing so late as 1867:
+"Kensington, a mile and a half west of Hyde Park Corner, contains the
+hamlets of Brompton, Earl's Court, the Gravel Pits, and part of Little
+Chelsea, now West Brompton, but the Royal Palace and about twenty other
+houses north of the road are in the parish of St. Margaret's,
+Westminster." He adds that Brompton has long been frequented by invalids
+on account of its genial air. Faulkner, the local historian of all
+South-West London, speaks of the "delightful fruit-gardens of Brompton
+and Earl's Court."
+
+The origin of the name Kensington is obscure. In Domesday Book it is
+called Chenesitum, and in other ancient records Kenesitune and
+Kensintune, on which Lysons comments: "Cheneesi was a proper name. A
+person of that name held the Manor of Huish in Somersetshire in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor." This is apparently entirely without
+foundation. Other writers have attempted to connect the name with
+Kings-town, with equal ill-success. The true derivation seems to be from
+the Saxon tribe of the Kensings or Kemsings, whose name also remains in
+the little village of Kemsing in Kent.
+
+
+HISTORY.
+
+From Domesday Book we learn that the Manor of Kensington had belonged to
+a certain Edward or Edwin, a thane, during the reign of Edward the
+Confessor. It was granted by William I. to Geoffrey, Bishop of
+Coutances, under whom it was held by Alberic or Aubrey de Ver or Vere.
+The Bishop died in 1093, and Aubrey then held it directly from the
+Crown.
+
+Aubrey's son Godefrid or Geoffrey, being under obligations to the Abbot
+of Abingdon, persuaded his father to grant a strip of Kensington to the
+Abbot. This was done with the consent of the next heir. The strip thus
+granted became a subordinate manor; it is described as containing "2
+hides and a virgate" of land, or about 270 acres. This estate was cut
+right out of the original manor, and formed a detached piece or island
+lying within it.
+
+The second Aubrey de Vere was made Great Chamberlain of England by King
+Henry I. This office was made hereditary. The third Aubrey was created
+Earl of Oxford by Queen Matilda, a purely honorary title, as he held no
+possessions in Oxfordshire. The third Earl, Robert, was one of the
+guardians of the Magna Charta. The fifth of the same name granted lands,
+in 1284, to one Simon Downham, chaplain, and his heirs, at a rent of one
+penny. This formed another manor in Kensington. This Robert and the
+three succeeding Earls held high commands. The ninth Earl was one of the
+favourites of Richard II., under whom he held many offices. He was made
+Knight of the Garter, Marquis of Dublin (the first Marquis created in
+England), and later on Duke of Ireland. His honours were forfeited at
+Richard's fall. However, as he died without issue, this can have been no
+great punishment. Eventually his uncle Aubrey was restored by Act of
+Parliament to the earldom, and became the tenth Earl. Kensington had,
+however, been settled on the widowed Duchess of Ireland, and at her
+death in 1411 it went to the King. By a special gift in 1420 it was
+restored to the twelfth Earl. In 1462 he was beheaded by King Edward
+IV., and his eldest son with him. The thirteenth Earl was restored to
+the family honours and estates under King Henry VII., but he was forced
+to part with "Knotting Barnes or Knotting barnes, sometimes written
+Notting or Nutting barns." This is said to have been more valuable than
+the original manor itself. It formed the third subordinate manor in
+Kensington. The thirteenth Earl was succeeded by his nephew, who died
+young. The titles went to a collateral branch, and the Manor of
+Kensington was settled on the two widowed Countesses, and later upon
+three sisters, co-heiresses of the fourteenth Earl.
+
+We have now to trace the histories of the secondary manors after their
+severance from the main estate. The Abbot's manor still survives in the
+name of St. Mary Abbots Church. About 1260 it was discovered that Aubrey
+de Vere had not obtained the consent of the Archbishop of Canterbury or
+the Bishop of London before granting the manor to the Abbot. Thereupon a
+great dispute arose as to the Abbot's rights over the land in question,
+and it was finally decided that the Abbot was to retain half the great
+tithes, but that the vicarage was to be in the gift of the Bishop of
+London. The Abbot's manor was leased to William Walwyn in the beginning
+of the sixteenth century. It afterwards was held by the Grenvilles, who
+had obtained the reversion. In 1564 the tithes and demesne lands were
+separated from the manor and rectory, which were still held by the
+Grenvilles. The tithes passed through the hands of many people in
+succession, as did also the manor. In 1595 one Robert Horseman was the
+lessee under the Crown. The Queen sold the estate to Walter (afterwards
+Sir Walter) Cope, and a special agreement was made by which Robert
+Horseman still retained his right to live in the manor house. This is
+important, as it led to the foundation of Holland House by Cope, who had
+no suitable residence as lord of the manor.
+
+West Town, created out of lands known as the Groves, was granted by the
+fifth Earl, as we have seen, to his chaplain Simon Downham. This grant
+is described by Mr. Loftie thus: "It appears to have been that piece of
+land which was intercepted between the Abbot's manor and the western
+border of the parish, and would answer to Addison Road and the land on
+either side of it." Robins, in his "History of Paddington," mentions an
+inquisition taken in 1481, in which "The Groves, formerly only three
+fields, had extended themselves out of Kensington into Brompton,
+Chelsea, Tybourn, and Westbourne."
+
+The manor passed later to William Essex. It was bought from him in 1570
+by the Marquis of Winchester, Lord High Treasurer of England. He sold
+it to William Dodington, who resold it to Christopher Barker, printer to
+Queen Elizabeth, who was responsible for the "Breeches" Bible. It was
+bought from him by Walter Cope for L1,300.
+
+Knotting Barnes was sold by the thirteenth Earl, whose fortunes had been
+impoverished by adhesion to the House of Lancaster. It was bought by Sir
+Reginald Bray, who sold it to the Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond,
+mother of King Henry VII. This manor seems to have included lands lying
+without the precincts of Kensington, for in an indenture entered into by
+the Lady and the Abbot of Westminster in regard to the disposal of her
+property we find mentioned "lands and tenements in Willesden, Padyngton,
+Westburn, and Kensington, in the countie of Midd., which maners, lands,
+and tenements the said Princes late purchased of Sir Reynolds Bray
+knight." The Countess left the greater part of her property to the Abbey
+at Westminster, and part to the two Universities at Oxford and
+Cambridge. On the spoliation of the monasteries, King Henry VIII. became
+possessed of the Westminster property; he took up the lease, granting
+the lessee, Robert White, other lands in exchange, and added it to the
+hunting-ground he purposed forming on the north and west of London. At
+his death King Edward VI. inherited it, and leased it to Sir William
+Paulet. In 1587 it was held by Lord Burghley. In 1599 it was sold to
+Walter Cope.
+
+Earl's Court or Kensington Manor we traced to the three sisters of the
+last Earl. One of these died childless, the other two married
+respectively John Nevill, Lord Latimer; and Sir Anthony Wingfield.
+Family arrangements were made to prevent the division of the estate,
+which passed to Lucy Nevill, Lord Latimer's third daughter. She married
+Sir W. Cornwallis, and left one daughter, Anne, who married Archibald,
+Earl of Argyll, who joined with her in selling the manor to Sir Walter
+Cope in 1609. Sir Walter Cope had thus held at one time or another the
+whole of Kensington. He now possessed Earl's Court, West Town, and
+Abbot's Manor, having sold Notting Barns some time before. His daughter
+and heiress married Sir Henry Rich, younger son of the first Earl of
+Warwick. Further details are given in the account of Holland House (p.
+76).
+
+PERAMBULATION.--We will begin at the extreme easterly point of the
+borough, the toe of the boot which the general outline resembles. We are
+here in Knightsbridge. The derivation of this word has been much
+disputed. Many old writers, including Faulkner, have identified it with
+Kingsbridge--that is to say, the bridge over the Westbourne in the
+King's high-road. The Westbourne formed the boundary of Chelsea, and
+flowed across the road opposite Albert Gate. The real King's bridge,
+however, was not here, but further eastward over the Tyburn, and as far
+back as Henry I.'s reign it is referred to as Cnightebriga. Another
+derivation for Knightsbridge is therefore necessary. The old topographer
+Norden writes: "Kingsbridge, commonly called Stone bridge, near Hyde
+Park Corner, where I wish no true man to walk too late without good
+guard, as did Sir H. Knyvett, Kt., who valiantly defended himself, being
+assaulted, and slew the master-thief with his own hands." This, of
+course, has reference to the more westerly bridge mentioned above, but
+it seems to have served as a suggestion to later topographers, who have
+founded upon it the tradition that two knights on their way to Fulham to
+be blessed by the Bishop of London quarrelled and fought at the
+Westbourne Bridge, and killed each other, and hence gave rise to the
+name. This story may be dismissed as entirely baseless; the real
+explanation is much less romantic. The word is probably connected with
+the Manor of Neyt, which was adjacent to Westminster, and as
+pronunciation rather than orthography was relied upon in early days,
+this seems much the most likely explanation. Lysons says: "Adjoining to
+Knightsbridge were two other ancient manors called Neyt and Hyde." We
+still have the Hyde in Hyde Park, and Neyt is thus identified with
+Knightsbridge.
+
+Until the middle of the nineteenth century Knightsbridge was an outlying
+hamlet. People started from Hyde Park Corner in bands for mutual
+protection at regular intervals, and a bell was rung to warn pedestrians
+when the party was about to start. In 1778, when Lady Elliot, after the
+death of her husband, Sir Gilbert, came to Knightsbridge for fresh air,
+she found it as "quiet as Teviotdale." About forty years before this the
+Bristol mail was robbed by a man on foot near Knightsbridge. The place
+has also been the scene of many riots. In 1556, at the time of Wyatt's
+insurrection, the rebel and his followers arrived at the hamlet at
+nightfall, and stayed there all night before advancing on London. As
+already explained, the Borough of Kensington does not include
+Knightsbridge, but only touches it, and the part we are now in belongs
+to Westminster.
+
+The Albert Gate leading into the park was erected in 1844-46, and was,
+of course, called after Prince Albert. The stags on the piers were
+modelled after prints by Bartolozzi, and were first set up at the
+Ranger's Lodge in the Green Park. Part of the foundations of the old
+bridge outside were unearthed at the building of the gate, and, besides
+this bridge, there was another within the park. The French Embassy,
+recently enlarged, stands on the east side of the gate--the house
+formerly belonged to Mr. Hudson, the "railway king"--and to the west are
+several large buildings, a bank, Hyde Park Court, etc., succeeded by a
+row of houses. Here originally stood a famous old tavern, the Fox and
+Bull, said to have been founded in the time of Queen Elizabeth; if so,
+it must have retained its popularity uncommonly long, for it was noted
+for its gay company in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. It
+is referred to in the _Tatler_ (No. 259), and was visited by Sir Joshua
+Reynolds and George Morland, the former of whom painted the sign, which
+hung until 1807. It is said that the Elizabethan house had wonderfully
+carved ceilings and immense fire-dogs, still in use in 1799. The inn was
+later the receiving office of the Royal Humane Society, and to it was
+brought the body of Shelley's wife after she had drowned herself in the
+Serpentine.
+
+In the open space opposite is an equestrian statue of Hugh Rose--Lord
+Strathnairn--by Onslow Ford, R.A. Close by is a little triangular strip
+of green, which goes by the dignified name of Knightsbridge Green. It
+has a dismal reminiscence, having been a burial-pit for those who died
+of the plague. The last maypole was on the green in 1800, and the
+pound-house remained until 1835.
+
+The entrance to Tattersall's overlooks the green. This famous horse-mart
+was founded by Richard Tattersall, who had been stud-groom to the last
+Duke of Kingston. He started a horse market in 1766 at Hyde Park Corner,
+and his son carried it on after him. Rooms were fitted up at the market
+for the use of the Jockey Club, which held its meetings there for many
+years. Charles James Fox was one of the most regular patrons of
+Tattersall's sales. The establishment was moved to its present position
+in 1864.
+
+The cavalry barracks on the north side of Knightsbridge boast of having
+the largest amount of cubic feet of air per horse of any stables in
+London.
+
+An old inn called Half-way House stood some distance beyond the barracks
+in the middle of the roadway until well on into the nineteenth century,
+and proved a great impediment to traffic. On the south side of the road,
+eastward of Rutland Gate, is Kent House, which recalls by its name the
+fact that the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, once lived here.
+Not far off is Princes Skating Club, one of the most popular and
+expensive of its kind in London. Rutland Gate takes its name from a
+mansion of the Dukes of Rutland, which stood on the same site. The
+neighbourhood is a good residential one, and the houses bordering the
+roads have the advantage of looking out over the Gardens. There is
+nothing else requiring comment until we reach the Albert Hall, so,
+leaving this part for a time, we return to the Brompton Road. This road
+was known up to 1856 as the Fulham Road, though a long row of houses on
+the north side had been called Brompton Row much earlier.
+
+Brompton signifies Broom Town, carrying suggestions of a wide and heathy
+common. Brompton Square, a very quiet little place, a cul-de-sac, which
+has also the great recommendation that no "street music" is allowed
+within it, can boast of having had some distinguished residents. At No.
+22, George Colman, junior, the dramatist, a witty and genial talker,
+whose society was much sought after, lived for the ten years previous to
+his death in 1836. The same house was in 1860 taken by Shirley Brooks,
+editor of _Punch_. The list of former residents also includes the names
+of John Liston, comedian, No. 40, and Frederick Yates, the actor, No.
+57.
+
+The associations of all of this district have been preserved by Crofton
+Croker in his "Walk from London to Fulham," but his work suffers from
+being too minute; names which are now as dead as their owners are
+recorded, and the most trivial points noted. Opposite Brompton Square
+there was once a street called Michael's Grove, after its builder,
+Michael Novosielski, architect of the Royal Italian Opera House. In
+1835 Douglas Jerrold, critic and dramatist, lived here, and whilst here
+was visited by Dickens. Ovington Square covers the ground where once
+stood Brompton Grove, where several well-known people had houses; among
+them was the editor (William Jerdan) of the _Literary Gazette_, who was
+visited by many literary men, and who held those informal conversation
+parties, so popular in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries,
+which must have been very delightful. Tom Hood was among the guests on
+many occasions. Before being Brompton Grove, this part of the district
+had been known as Flounder's Field, but why, tradition does not say.
+
+The next opening on the north side is an avenue of young lime-trees
+leading to Holy Trinity Church, the parish church of Brompton. It was
+opened in 1829, and the exterior is as devoid of beauty as the date
+would lead one to suppose. There are about 1,800 seats, and 700 are
+free. The burial-ground behind the church is about 41/2 acres in
+extent, and was consecrated at the same time as the church. Croker
+mentions that it was once a flower-garden. Northward are Ennismore
+Gardens, named after the secondary title of the Earl of Listowel, who
+lives in Kingston House. The house recalls the notorious Duchess of
+Kingston, who occupied it for some time. The Duchess, who began life as
+Elizabeth Chudleigh, must have had strong personal attractions. She was
+appointed maid of honour to Augusta, Princess of Wales, and after
+several love-affairs was married secretly to the Hon. Augustus John
+Hervey, brother of the Earl of Bristol. She continued to be a maid of
+honour after this event, which remained a profound secret. Her husband
+was a lieutenant in the navy, and on his return from his long absences
+the couple quarrelled violently. It was not, however, until sixteen
+years later that Mrs. Hervey began a connection with the Duke of
+Kingston, which ended in a form of marriage. It was then that she
+assumed the title, and caused Kingston House to be built for her
+residence; fifteen years later her real husband succeeded to the title
+of Earl of Bristol, and she was brought up to answer to the charge of
+bigamy, on which she was proved guilty, but with extenuating
+circumstances, and she seems to have got off scot-free. She afterwards
+went abroad, and died in Paris in 1788, aged sixty-eight, after a life
+of gaiety and dissipation. From the very beginning her behaviour seems
+to have been scandalous, and she richly merited the epithet always
+prefixed to her name. Sir George Warren and Lord Stair subsequently
+occupied the house, and later the Marquis Wellesley, elder brother of
+the famous Duke of Wellington. Intermediately it was occupied by the
+Listowel family, to whom the freehold belongs.
+
+All Saints' Church in Ennismore Gardens was built by Vulliamy, and is in
+rather a striking Lombardian style, refreshing after the meaningless
+"Gothic" of so many parish churches.
+
+The Oratory of St. Philip Neri, near Brompton Church, is surmounted by a
+great dome, on the summit of which is a golden cross. It is the
+successor of a temporary oratory opened in 1854, and the present church
+was opened thirty years later by Cardinal Manning. The oratory is built
+of white stone, and the entrance is under a great portico. The style
+followed throughout is that of the Renaissance, and all the fittings and
+furniture are costly and beautifully finished, so that the whole
+interior has an appearance of richness and elegance. A nave of immense
+height and 51 feet in width is supported by pillars of Devonshire
+marble, and there are many well-furnished chapels in the side aisles.
+The floor of the sanctuary is of inlaid wood, and the stalls are after a
+Renaissance Viennese model, and are inlaid with ivory; both of these
+fittings were the gift of Anne, Duchess of Argyll. The central picture
+is by Father Philpin de Riviere, of the London Oratory, and it is
+surmounted by onyx panels in gilt frames. The two angels on each side of
+a cartouche are of Italian workmanship, and were given by the late Sir
+Edgar Boehm. The oratory is famous for its music, and the crowds that
+gather here are by no means entirely of the Roman Catholic persuasion.
+Near the church-house is a statue of Cardinal Newman.
+
+Not far westward the new buildings of the South Kensington Museum are
+rapidly rising. The laying of their foundation-stone was one of the last
+public acts of Queen Victoria. Until these buildings were begun there
+was a picturesque old house standing within the enclosure marked out for
+their site, and some people imagined this was Cromwell House, which gave
+its name to so many streets in the neighbourhood; this was, however, a
+mistake. Cromwell House was further westward, near where the present
+Queen's Gate is, and the site is now covered by the gardens of the
+Natural History Museum.
+
+All that great space lying between Queen's Gate and Exhibition Road, and
+bounded north and south by Kensington Gore and the Cromwell Road, has
+seen many changes. At first it was Brompton Park, a splendid estate,
+which for some time belonged to the Percevals, ancestors of the Earls of
+Egmont. A large part of it was cut off in 1675 to form a nursery garden,
+the first of its kind in England, which naturally attracted much
+attention, and formed a good strolling-ground for the idlers who came
+out from town. Evelyn mentions this garden in his diary at some length,
+and evidently admired it very much. It was succeeded by the gardens of
+the Horticultural Society, and the Imperial Institute now stands on the
+site. The Great Exhibition of 1851 (see p. 66) was followed by another
+in 1862, which was not nearly so successful, and this was held on the
+ground now occupied by the Natural History Museum; it in turn was
+followed by smaller exhibitions held in the Horticultural Society's
+grounds.
+
+In an old map we see Hale or Cromwell House standing, as above
+indicated, about the western end of the Museum gardens. Lysons gives
+little credence to the story of its having been the residence of the
+great Protector. He says that during Cromwell's time, and for many years
+afterwards, it was the residence of the Methwold family, and adds: "If
+there were any grounds for the tradition, it may be that Henry Cromwell
+occupied it before he went out to Ireland the second time." This seems a
+likely solution, for it is improbable that a name should have impressed
+itself so persistently upon a district without some connection, and as
+Henry Cromwell was married in Kensington parish church, there is nothing
+improbable in the fact of his having lived in the parish. Faulkner
+follows Lysons, and adds a detailed description of the house. He says:
+
+    "Over the mantelpiece there is a recess formed by the curve of the
+    chimney, in which it is said that the Protector used to conceal
+    himself when he visited the house, but why his Highness chose this
+    place for concealment the tradition has not condescended to inform
+    us."
+
+In Faulkner's time the Earl of Harrington, who had come into possession
+of the park estate by his marriage with its heiress, owned Cromwell
+House; his name is preserved in Harrington Road close by. When the Manor
+of Earl's Court was sold to Sir Walter Cope in 1609, Hale House, as it
+was then called, and the 30 acres belonging to it, had been especially
+excepted. In the eighteenth century the place was turned into a
+tea-garden, and was well patronized, but never attained the celebrity of
+Vauxhall or Ranelagh, and later was eclipsed altogether by Florida
+Gardens further westward (see p. 32). The house was taken down in 1853.
+
+The Natural History Museum is a branch of the British Museum, and,
+though commonly called the South Kensington Museum, has no claim at all
+to that title. The architect was A. Waterhouse, and the building rather
+suggests a child's erection from a box of many coloured bricks. The
+material is yellow terra-cotta with gray bands, and the ground-plan is
+simple enough, consisting of a central hall and long straight galleries
+running from it east and west. The mineralogical, botanical,
+zoological, and geological collections are to be found here in
+conformity with a resolution passed by the trustees of the British
+Museum in 1860, though the building was not finished until twenty years
+later. The collections are most popular, especially that of birds and
+their nests in their natural surroundings; and as the Museum is open
+free, it is well patronized, especially on wet Sunday afternoons. The
+South Kensington Museum, that part of it already standing on the east
+side of Exhibition Road, is the outcome of the Great Exhibition, and
+began with a collection at Marlborough House. The first erection was a
+hideous temporary structure of iron, which speedily became known as the
+"Brompton Boilers," and this was handed over to the Science and Art
+Department. In 1868 this building was taken down, and some of the
+materials were used for the branch museum at Bethnal Green.
+
+The buildings have now spread and are spreading over so much ground that
+it is a matter of difficulty to enumerate them all. The elaborate
+terra-cotta building facing Exhibition Road is the Royal College of
+Science, under the control of the Board of Education, for the Museum is
+quite as much for purposes of technical education as for mere
+sightseeing. Behind this lie the older parts of the Museum, galleries,
+etc., which are so much hidden away that it is difficult to get a
+glimpse of them at all. Across the road, behind the Natural History
+Museum, are the Southern Galleries, containing various models of
+machinery actually working; northward of this, more red brick and
+scaffolding proclaim an extension, which will face the Imperial
+Institute Road, and parts have even run across the roads in both
+directions north and westward. The whole is known officially as the
+Victoria and Albert Museum, but generally goes by the name of the South
+Kensington Museum. The galleries and library are well worth a visit, and
+official catalogues can be had at the entrance.
+
+From an architectural point of view, the Imperial Institute is much more
+satisfactory than either of the above. It is of gray stone, with a high
+tower called the Queen's Tower, rising to a height of 280 feet; in this
+is a peal of bells, ten in number, called after members of the royal
+family, and presented by an Australian lady. The Institute was the
+national memorial for Queen Victoria's Jubilee, and was designed to
+embody the colonial or Imperial idea by the collection of the native
+products of the various colonies, but it has not been nearly so
+successful as its fine idea entitled it to be. It was also formed into a
+club for Fellows on a payment of a small subscription, but was never
+very warmly supported. It is now partly converted to other uses. The
+London University occupies the main entrance, great hall, central block,
+and east wings (except the basement). There are located here the Senate
+and Council rooms, Vice-Chancellor's rooms, Board-rooms, convocation
+halls and offices, besides the rooms of the Principal, Registrars, and
+other University officers. At the Institute are also the physiological
+theatre and laboratories for special advanced lectures and research. The
+rest of the building is now the property of the Board of Trade, under
+whom the real Imperial Institute occupies the west wing and certain
+other parts of the building.
+
+The Horticultural Gardens, which the Imperial Institute superseded, were
+taken by the Society in 1861, in addition to its then existing gardens
+at Chiswick. They were laid out in a very artificial and formal style,
+and were mocked in a contemporary article in the _Quarterly Review_: "So
+the brave old trees which skirted the paddock of Gore House were felled,
+little ramps were raised, and little slopes sliced off with a fiddling
+nicety of touch which would have delighted the imperial grandeur of the
+summer palace, and the tiny declivities thus manufactured were tortured
+into curvilinear patterns, where sea-sand, chopped coal, and powdered
+bricks atoned for the absence of flower or shrub." Every vestige of this
+has, of course, now vanished, and a new road has been driven past the
+front of the Institute.
+
+The Albert Hall was opened by Queen Victoria in 1871, and, like the
+other buildings already mentioned, is closely associated with the
+earlier half of her reign. The idea was due to Prince Albert, who wished
+to have a large hall for musical and oratorical performances. It is in
+the form of a gigantic ellipse covered by a dome, and the external walls
+are decorated by a frieze. The effect is hardly commendable, and the
+whole has been compared to a huge bandbox. However, it answers the
+purpose for which it was designed, having good acoustic properties, and
+its concerts, especially the cheap ones on Sunday afternoons, are always
+well attended. The organ is worked by steam, and is one of the largest
+in the world, having close on 9,000 pipes. The hall stands on the site
+of Gore House, in its time a rendezvous for all the men and women of
+intellect and brilliancy in England. It was occupied by Wilberforce from
+1808 to 1821. He came to it after his illness at Clapham, which had made
+him feel the necessity of moving nearer to London, that he might
+discharge his Parliamentary duties more easily. His Bill for the
+Abolition of Slavery had become law shortly before, and he was at the
+time a popular idol. His house was thronged with visitors, among whom
+were his associates, Clarkson, Zachary Macaulay, and Romilly. What
+charmed him most in his new residence was the garden "full of lilacs,
+laburnum, nightingales, and swallows." He writes:
+
+    "We are just one mile from the turnpike at Hyde Park Corner, having
+    about 3 acres of pleasure-ground around our house, or rather behind
+    it, and several old trees, walnut and mulberry, of thick foliage. I
+    can sit and read under their shade with as much admiration of the
+    beauties of nature as if I were 200 miles from the great city."
+
+In 1836 the clever and popular Lady Blessington came to Gore House, and
+remained there just so long as Wilberforce had done--namely, thirteen
+years. The house is thus described in "The Gorgeous Lady Blessington"
+(Mr. Molloy):
+
+    "Lying back from the road, from which it was separated by high walls
+    and great gates, it was approached by a courtyard that led to a
+    spacious vestibule. The rooms were large and lofty, the hall wide
+    and stately, but the chiefest attraction of all were the beautiful
+    gardens stretching out at the back, with their wide terraces,
+    flower-beds, extensive lawns, and fine old trees."
+
+Kensington Gore was then considered to be in the country, and spoken of
+as a mile from London. Count D'Orsay, who had married Lady Blessington's
+stepdaughter, rather in compliance with her father's wishes than his own
+inclination, spent much of his time with his mother-in-law, and at her
+receptions all the literary talent of the age was gathered
+together--Bulwer Lytton, Disraeli, and Landor were frequent visitors,
+and Prince Louis Napoleon made his way to Gore House when he escaped
+from prison. Lady Blessington died in 1849. The house was used as a
+restaurant during the 1851 Exhibition, and afterwards bought with the
+estate by the Commissioners.
+
+The name "gore" generally means a wedge-shaped insertion, and, if we
+take it as being between the Kensington Gardens and Brompton and
+Cromwell Roads, might be applicable here, but the explanation is
+far-fetched. Leigh Hunt reminds us that the same word "gore" was
+previously used for mud or dirt, and as the Kensington Road at this part
+was formerly notorious for its mud, this may be the meaning of the name,
+but there can be no certainty. Lowther Lodge, a picturesque red-brick
+house, stands back behind a high wall; it was designed by Norman Shaw,
+R.A. In the row of houses eastward of it facing the road, No. 2 was once
+the residence of Wilkes, who at that time had also a house in Grosvenor
+Square and another in the Isle of Wight. Croker says that the actor
+Charles Mathews was once, with his wife, Madame Vestris, in Gore Lodge,
+Brompton. He was certainly a friend of the Blessingtons, and stayed
+abroad with them in Naples for a year, and may have been attracted to
+their neighbourhood at the Gore.
+
+Behind the Albert Hall are various buildings, such as Alexandra House
+for ladies studying art and music, also large mansions and
+_maisonnettes_ recently built. The Royal College of Music, successor of
+the old College, which stood west of the Albert Hall, is in Prince
+Consort Road. It was designed by Sir Arthur Blomfield, and opened in
+1894. The cost was defrayed by Mr. Samson Fox, and in the building is a
+curious collection of old musical instruments known as the Donaldson
+Museum and open free daily. In the same road a prettily designed church,
+to be called Holy Trinity, Kensington Gore, is rapidly rising. In the
+northern part of Exhibition Road is the Technical Institute of the City
+and Guilds in a large red and white building, and just south of it the
+Royal School of Art Needlework for Ladies, founded by Princess
+Christian.
+
+Queen's Gate is very wide; in the southern part stands St. Augustine's
+Church, opened for service in 1871, though the chancel was not completed
+until five years later. The architect was Mr. Butterfield, and the
+church is of brick of different colours, with a bell gable at the west
+end. In Cromwell Place, near the underground station, Sir John Everett
+Millais lived in No. 7; the fact is recorded on a tablet. Harrington
+Road was formerly Cromwell Lane, and there is extant a letter of Leigh
+Hunt's dated from this address in 1830. Pelham Crescent, behind the
+station, formerly looked out upon tea-gardens. Guizot, the notable
+French Minister, came to live here after the fall of Louis Philippe. He
+was in No. 21, and Charles Mathews, the actor, lived for a time in No.
+25. The curves of the old Brompton Road suggest that it was a lane at
+one time, curving to avoid the fields or different properties on either
+side.
+
+Onslow Square stands upon the site of a large lunatic asylum. In it is
+St. Paul's Church, built in 1860, and well known for its evangelical
+services. There is nothing remarkable in its architecture save that the
+chancel is at the west end. The pulpit is of carved stone with inlaid
+slabs of American onyx. Marochetti, an Italian sculptor, who is
+responsible for many of the statues in London, including that of Prince
+Albert on the Memorial, lived at No. 34 in the square in 1860. But its
+proudest association is that Thackeray came to the house then No. 36,
+from Young Street, in 1853. "The Newcomes" was at that time appearing in
+parts, and continued to run until 1855, so that some of it was probably
+written here. He published also while here "The Rose and the Ring," the
+outcome of a visit to Rome with his daughters, and after "The Newcomes"
+was completed he visited America for a second time on a tour of
+lectures, subsequently embodied in a book, "The Four Georges." By his
+move from Young Street he was nearer to his friends the Carlyles in
+Chelsea, a fact doubtless much appreciated on both sides. He contested
+Oxford in 1857, and in the following year began the publication of "The
+Virginians," which was doubtless inspired by his American experiences.
+In 1860 he was made editor of the _Cornhill_, from which his income came
+to something like L4,000 a year, and on the strength of this accession
+of fortune he began to build a house in Palace Green, to which he moved
+when it was complete (p. 53).
+
+It has been remarked that this is rather a dismal neighbourhood, with
+the large hospitals for Cancer and Consumption facing each other across
+the Fulham Road, and the Women's Hospital quite close at hand. It is
+with the Consumption Hospital alone we have to do here, as the others
+are in Chelsea. This hospital stands on part of the ground which
+belonged to a famous botanical garden owned by William Curtis at the end
+of the eighteenth century. The building is of red brick, faced with
+white stone, and it is on a piece of ground about 3 acres in extent,
+lined by small trees, under which are seats for the wan-faced patients.
+The ground-plan of the building resembles the letter H, and the system
+adopted inside is that of galleries used as day-rooms and filled with
+chairs and couches. From these the bedrooms open off. The galleries
+make a superior sort of ward, and are bright, with large windows, and
+polished floors. There is a chapel attached to the hospital, which was
+chiefly presented by the late Sir Henry Foulis, after whom one of the
+galleries is named, and who is also recalled in the name of a
+neighbouring terrace. The west wing of the hospital was added in 1852,
+and towards it Jenny Lind, who was resident in Brompton, presented
+L1,600, the proceeds of a concert for the cause. There is also an
+extension building across the road. Here there is a compressed air-bath,
+in which an enormous pressure of air can be put upon the patient, to the
+relief of his lungs. This item, rendered expensive by its massive
+structure and iron bolts and bars, cost L1,000, and is one of the only
+two of the kind in existence, the other being in Paris. A Miss Read
+bequeathed to the hospital the sum of L100,000, and in memory of her a
+slab beneath a central window is inscribed: "In Memoriam Cordelia Read,
+1879." It was due to her beneficence that the extension building was
+added.
+
+In Cranley Gardens, which takes its name from the secondary title of the
+Earl of Onslow, is St. Peter's Church, founded in 1866. Cranley Gardens
+run into Gloucester Road, which formerly bore the much less aristocratic
+title of Hogmore Lane.
+
+Just above the place where the Cromwell Road cuts Gloucester Road, about
+the site of the National Provincial Branch Bank, once stood a rather
+important house. It had been the Florida Tea-gardens, and having gained
+a bad reputation was closed, and the place sold to Sophia, Duchess of
+Gloucester, who built there a house on her own account, and called it
+Orford Lodge, in honour of her own family, the Walpoles. She had married
+privately William Henry, Duke of Gloucester, brother of George III. The
+marriage, which took place in 1766, was not revealed to King George II.
+until six years had passed, and when it was the Duke and Duchess fell
+under the displeasure of His Majesty. They travelled abroad for some
+time, but in 1780 were reinstated in royal favour. The Duke died in
+1805, and the Duchess two years later. After her death her daughter,
+Princess Sophia, sold the house to the great statesman George Canning,
+who renamed it Gloucester Lodge, and lived in it until his death
+eighteen years later. It was to this house he was brought after his duel
+with Lord Castlereagh, when he was badly wounded in the thigh. Crabbe,
+the poet, visited him at Gloucester Lodge, and records the fact in his
+journal, commenting on the gardens, and remarking that the place was
+much secluded. Canning also received here the unhappy Queen Caroline,
+whose cause he had warmly espoused. The house was pulled down about the
+middle of last century, but its memory is kept alive in Gloucester Road.
+
+Thistle Grove Lane is one of those quaint survivals which enable us to
+reconstruct the past topographically, in the same way as the silent
+letters in a word, apparently meaningless, enable us to reconstruct the
+philological past. It is no longer a lane, but a narrow passage, and
+about midway down is crossed by a little street called Priory Grove.
+Faulkner makes mention of Friars' Grove in this position, and the two
+names are probably identical. Brompton Heath lay east of this lane, and
+westward was Little Chelsea, a small hamlet in fields, situated by
+itself, quite detached from London, separated from it by the dreary
+heath, that no man might cross with impunity after dark.
+
+The Boltons is an oval piece of ground with St. Mary's Church in the
+middle. The church was opened in 1851, and the interior is surprisingly
+small in comparison with the exterior. It was fully restored about
+twenty years after it had been built. The land had been for many years
+the property of the Bolton family, whose name impressed itself on the
+place.
+
+Returning to the Fulham Road, and continuing westward, we pass the site
+of an old manor-house, afterwards used as an orphanage; near it was an
+additional building of the St. George's Union, which is opposite. There
+is a tradition that Boyle, the philosopher, once occupied this
+additional house, and was here visited by Locke. The present Union
+stands on the site of Shaftesbury House, built about 1635, and bought by
+the third Earl of Shaftesbury in 1699. Addison, who was a great friend
+of the Earl's, often stayed with him in Shaftesbury House.
+
+Redcliffe Gardens was formerly called Walnut-Tree Walk, another rural
+reminiscence. At the eastern corner was Burleigh House, and an entry in
+the Kensington registers, May 15, 1674, tells of the birth of "John
+Cecill, son and heir of John, Lord Burleigh," in the parish. There is no
+direct evidence to show that Lord Burleigh was then living in this
+house, but the probability is that he was. To the east of this house
+again was a row of others, with large gardens at the back; one was
+Lochee's well-known military academy, and another, Heckfield Lodge, was
+taken by the brothers of the Priory attached to the Roman Catholic
+church, Our Lady of Seven Dolours, which faces the street. The greater
+part of this church was built in 1876, but a very fine rectangular porch
+with figures of saints in the niches, and a narthex in the same style,
+were added later. The square tower with corner pinnacles is a
+conspicuous object in the Fulham Road.
+
+Among other important persons who lived at Little Chelsea in or about
+Fulham Road were Sir Bartholomew Shower, a well-known lawyer, in 1693;
+the Bishop of Gloucester (Edward Fowler), 1709; the Bishop of Chester
+(Sir William Dawes), who afterwards became Archbishop of York; and Sir
+Edward Ward, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, in 1697. It is odd to read of
+a highway murder occurring near Little Chelsea in 1765. The barbarity of
+the time demanded that the murderers should be executed on the spot
+where their crime was committed, so that the two men implicated were
+hanged, the one at the end of Redcliffe Gardens, and the other near
+Stamford Bridge, Chelsea Station. These men were Chelsea pensioners, and
+must have been active for their years to make such an attempt. The
+gibbet stood at the end of the present Redcliffe Gardens for very many
+years.
+
+Ifield Road was once Honey Lane. To the west are the entrance gates of
+the cemetery, which is about 800 yards in extreme length by 300 in the
+broadest part. The graves are thickly clustered together at the southern
+end, with hardly two inches between the stones, which are of every
+variety. The cemetery was opened for burial in June, 1840. Sir Roderick
+Murchison, the geologist, is among those who lie here. In the centre of
+the southern part of the cemetery is a chapel; two colonnades and a
+central building stand over the catacombs, which are not now used. At
+the northern end is a Dissenters' chapel. Having thus come to the
+extreme limits of the district, we turn to the neighbourhood of Earl's
+Court.
+
+Earl's Court can show good cause why it should hold both its names, for
+here the lords of the manor, the Earls of Oxford, held their courts. The
+earlier maps of Kensington are all of the nineteenth century. Before
+that time the old topographers doubtless thought there was nothing out
+of which to make a map, for except by the sides of the high-road, and in
+the detached villages of Brompton, Earl's Court, and Little Chelsea,
+there were only fields. Faulkner's 1820 map is very slight and sketchy.
+He says: "In speaking of this part, proceeding down Earl's Court Lane
+[Road], we arrive at the village of Earl's Court." The 1837 Survey shows
+a considerable increase in the number of houses, though Earl's Court is
+still a village, connected with Kensington by a lane. Daw's map of 1846
+for some reason shows fewer houses, but his 1858 map gives a decided
+increase.
+
+Near where the underground station now is stood the old court-house of
+Earl's Court. From 1789 to 1875 another building superseded it, but the
+older house was standing until 1878. There was a medicinal spring at
+Earl's Court in the beginning of the nineteenth century. Beside these
+two facts, there is very little that is interesting to note. John
+Hunter, the celebrated anatomist, founder of the Hunterian Museum, lived
+here in a house he had built for himself. He had a passion for animals,
+particularly strange beasts, and gathered an odd collection round him,
+somewhat to the dismay of his neighbours.
+
+The popular Earl's Court Exhibition is partly in Kensington and partly
+in Fulham; it is the largest exhibition open in London, and is
+patronized as much because it is one of the few places to which the
+Londoner can go to sit out of doors and hear a band after dinner, as for
+its more varied entertainments.
+
+One of the comparatively old houses of the neighbourhood of Earl's
+Court, that has only recently been demolished, was Coleherne Court, at
+the corner of Redcliffe Gardens and the Brompton Road. It is now
+replaced by residential flats. This was possibly the same house as that
+mentioned by Bowack (1705): "The Hon. Col. Grey has a fine seat at
+Earl's Court; it is but lately built, after the modern manner, and
+standing upon a plain, where nothing can intercept the sight, looks very
+stately at a distance. The gardens are very good." The house was later
+occupied by the widow of General Ponsonby, who fell in the Battle of
+Waterloo. Its companion, Hereford House, further eastward, was used as
+the headquarters of a cycling club before its demolition.
+
+The rest of the district eastward to Gloucester Road has no old
+association. St. Jude's Church, in Courtfield Gardens, was built in
+1870. The reredos is of red-stained alabaster, coloured marble, and
+mosaics by Salviati. St. Stephen's, in Gloucester Road, is a smaller
+church, founded in 1866. Beyond it Gloucester Road runs into Victoria
+Road, once Love Lane. General Gordon was at No. 8, Victoria Grove, in
+1881. Returning again to Earl's Court Road, we see St. Stephen's,
+another of the numerous modern churches in which the district abounds;
+it was built partly at the expense of the Rev. D. Claxton, and was
+opened in 1858. In Warwick Gardens, westward, is St. Mathias, which
+rivals St. Cuthbert's, in Philbeach Gardens, in the ritualism of its
+services. Both churches are very highly decorated. In St. Cuthbert's the
+interior is of great height, and the walls ornamentally worked in stone;
+there is a handsome oak screen, and a very fine statue of the Virgin and
+Child by Sir Edgar Boehm in the Lady Chapel; in both churches the seats
+are all free.
+
+Edwardes Square, with its houses on the north side bordering Kensington
+Road, is peculiarly attractive, with a large garden in the centre, and
+an old-world air about its houses, which are mostly small. Leigh Hunt
+says that it was (traditionally) built by a Frenchman at the time of the
+threatened French invasion, and that so confident was this good patriot
+of the issue of the war that he built the square, with its large garden
+and small houses, to suit the promenading tastes and poorly-furnished
+pockets of Napoleon's officers. The name was taken from the family name
+of Lord Kensington.
+
+Mrs. Inchbald stayed as a boarder at No. 4 in the square when she was
+sixty-five. She seems to have chosen the life for the sake of company
+rather than by reason of lack of means, for she was not badly off,
+having been always extraordinarily well paid for her work. She is
+described as having been above the middle height, of a freckled
+complexion, and with sandy hair, but nevertheless good-looking. Leigh
+Hunt himself was at No. 32 for some years before 1853, when he removed
+to Hammersmith. He mentions, on hearsay, that Coleridge once stayed in
+the square, but this was probably only on the occasion of a visit to
+friends. In recent times Walter Pater was a resident here.
+
+Leaving aside for a time Holland House, standing in beautiful grounds,
+which line the northern side of the road, and turning eastward, we find
+the Roman Catholic Pro-Cathedral, almost hidden behind houses. It is of
+dark-red brick, and was designed by Mr. Goldie, but the effect of the
+north porch is lost, owing to the buildings which hem it in; this defect
+will doubtless be remedied in time as leases expire. The interior of the
+cathedral is of great height, and the light stone arches are supported
+by pillars of polished Aberdeen granite.
+
+After Abingdon Road comes Allen Street, in which there is the Kensington
+Independent Chapel, a great square building with an imposing portico,
+built in 1854, "for the worshippers in the Hornton Street Chapel." The
+houses at the northern end of Allen Street are called Phillimore
+Terrace, and here Sir David Wilkie came in the autumn of 1824, having
+for the previous thirteen years lived in Lower Phillimore Place. His
+life in Kensington was quiet and regular. He says: "I dine at two
+o'clock, paint two hours in the forenoon and two hours in the afternoon,
+and take a short walk in the Park or through the fields twice a day."
+His mother and sister lived with him, and though he was a bachelor, his
+domestic affections were very strong. The time in Phillimore Terrace was
+far from bright; it was while he lived here that his mother died, also
+two of his brothers and his sister's _fiance_; and many other troubles,
+including money worries, came upon him. He eventually moved, though not
+far, only to Vicarage Gardens (then Place), near Church Street.
+
+In Kensington Road, beyond Allen Street, was an ancient inn, the Adam
+and Eve, in which it is said that Sheridan used to stop for a drink on
+the way to and from Holland House, and where he ran up a bill which he
+coolly left to be settled by his friend Lord Holland. The inn is now
+replaced by a modern public-house of the same name. Between this and
+Wright's Lane the aspect of the place has been entirely changed in the
+last few years by the erection of huge red-brick flats. On the other
+side of Wright's Lane the enlarged premises of Messrs. Ponting have
+covered up the site of Scarsdale House, which only disappeared to make
+way for them. Scarsdale House is supposed to have been built by one of
+the Earls of Scarsdale (first creation), the second of whom married Lady
+Frances Rich, eldest daughter of the Earl of Warwick and Holland, but
+there is not much evidence to support this conjecture. At the same time,
+the house was evidently much older than the date of the second Scarsdale
+creation--namely, 1761. The difficulty is surmounted by Mr. Loftie, who
+says: "John Curzon, who founded it, and called it after the home of his
+ancestors in Derbyshire, had bought the land for the purpose of building
+on it."
+
+At the end of this lane is the Home for Crippled Boys, established in
+Woolsthorpe House. The house was evidently named after the home of Sir
+Isaac Newton at Woolsthorpe, near Grantham. But apparently he never
+lived in it. His only connection with this part is that here stood "a
+batch of good old family houses, one of which belonged to Sir Isaac
+Newton." It is possible that the name was given by an enthusiastic
+admirer, moved thereto by the fact that Newton had lived in Bullingham
+House, Church Street, not so far distant.
+
+In the 1837 map of the district Woolsthorpe is marked "Carmaerthen
+House." The front and the entrance are old, and in one of the rooms
+there is decorative moulding on the ceiling and a carved mantelpiece,
+but the schoolrooms and workshops built out at the back are all modern.
+The home had a very small beginning, being founded in 1866 by Dr. Bibby,
+who rented one room, and took in three crippled boys.
+
+In Marloes Road, further south, are the workhouse and infirmary.
+
+Returning to the High Street, the Free Library and the Town Hall attract
+attention. The latter is nearly on the site of the old free schools,
+which were built by Sir John Vanbrugh with all the solidity
+characteristic of his style; and Leigh Hunt opined, if suffered to
+remain, they would probably outlast the whole of Kensington. However, no
+such misfortune occurred, and the only relics of them remaining are the
+figures of the charity children of Queen Anne's period, which now stand
+above the doorway of the new schools at the back of the Town Hall.
+
+William Cobbett, "essayist, politician, agriculturist," lived in a house
+on the site of some of the great shops on the south side of the High
+Street, opposite the Town Hall. His grounds bordered on those of
+Scarsdale House, and he established in them a seed garden in which to
+carry out his practical experiments in agriculture. His pugnacity and
+sharp tongue led him into many a quarrel, and he was never a favourite
+with those who were his neighbours. He advocated Queen Caroline's cause
+with warmth, and was the real author of her famous letter to the King.
+But he will always be remembered best by his _Weekly Register_, a potent
+political weapon.
+
+The parish church of St. Mary Abbots, with its high spire, forms a very
+striking object on the north side of the road. There is a stone porch
+over the entrance to the churchyard, and a picturesque cloistered
+passage leading round the south side. Within the cloister is a tablet
+commemorating the fact that it was partly built by Rev. E. C. Glyn and
+his wife in memory of his mother, who died in 1892. A little further on,
+immediately facing the south door, is another tablet, stating that the
+porch at the entrance to the cloister was erected by the widow of James
+Liddle Fairless in memory of her husband, who died in 1891. Within the
+church the walls are thickly covered with memorial tablets, and on the
+north and south walls are rows of them set in coloured marble. The
+reredos is a representation of the four evangelists in mosaic work in
+four panels, enclosed in a Gothic canopy of marble. On the north side of
+the chancel is a fresco painting enclosed in marble, presented by the
+Archbishop of York on leaving the parish. On the south side there is
+also a small fresco painting, but the greater part of the wall is
+occupied by the sedilia. The transept on the south side of the nave
+contains numerous memorial tablets and two brasses: nearly all of these
+belong to the eighteenth century. The monument of the Rich family is
+against the west wall in this transept, and is a conspicuous object. A
+large marble slab against the wall bears the name of Edward Rich, last
+Earl of Warwick and Holland (died 1759), his wife Mary, who survived him
+ten years, and their only child Charlotte, who died unmarried. Above are
+the names of the Rich family, and below is the statue of the young Earl
+of Warwick and Holland, the stepson of Addison, who died in 1721, aged
+twenty-four. He is in Roman dress, life-size, and is represented seated
+with his right elbow resting on an urn.
+
+On the further side of the south door we have a curious old white marble
+monument to the memory of Mr. Colin Campbell (died 1708). This was in
+the old church, and was placed in its present position by a descendant
+of the Campbell family. The font, a handsome marble basin, stands in the
+north aisle. Near it is a marble bust of Dr. Rennell, a former vicar of
+Kensington, by Chantrey. In the north chapel there is a large marble
+tablet to the memory of William Murray, third son of the Earl of
+Dunmore. The pulpit is of dark carved oak, and stood in the old church.
+The west porch is very handsomely ornamented with stonework. In the
+churchyard are buried several persons of note, including Mrs. Inchbald,
+the authoress; and a son of George Canning, whose monument is by
+Chantrey.
+
+Among other entries in the registers may be noticed the marriage of
+Henry Cromwell, already mentioned. There are many records of the Hicks
+(Campden) family, also of the Winchilsea and Nottingham, Lawrence,
+Cecil, Boyle, Howard of Effingham, Brydges, Dukes of Chandos,
+Molesworth, and Godolphin families. The plate belonging to the church is
+very valuable. The oldest piece is a cup dating from 1599, and a silver
+tankard is of the year 1619. A full description of the plate was given
+by Mr. Cripps in the parish magazine in 1879.
+
+The church owes its additional name of Abbots to the fact of its having
+belonged to the Abbot and convent of Abingdon, as set forth in the
+history of the parish. Bowack says: "It does not appear that this church
+was ever dedicated to any saint, nor can we find, after a very strict
+search, by whom it was founded, though we have traced its vicars up to
+the year 1260."
+
+It has already been explained that Aubrey de Vere made a present to the
+Abbot of the slice of land on which the church stands, and that this
+formed a secondary manor in Kensington. This transfer had been made with
+the consent of Pope Alexander, but without the consent of the Bishop of
+London or the Archbishop. In consequence of this omission the title of
+the Abbey to the land was disputed, and it was at length settled that
+the patronage of the vicarage should be vested in the Bishop. This was
+in 1260. At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries the Abbot's
+portion became vested in the Crown, from which it passed to various
+persons; and when Sir Walter Cope bought the manor a special arrangement
+had to be made with Robert Horseman, who was then in possession.
+
+So much for the history. The actual fabric has been subject to much
+change, and has been rebuilt many times. It is known that a church was
+standing on this site in 1102, but how old it was then is only matter
+for conjecture; in 1370 it was wholly or partly rebuilt. And this church
+was pulled down about 1694, with the exception of the tower, and again
+rebuilt; but in seven years the new building began to crack, and in 1704
+the roof was taken off, and the north and south walls once more rebuilt.
+After this Bowack describes it as "of brick and handsomely finished; but
+what it was formerly may be guessed by the old tower now standing, which
+has some appearance of antiquity, and looks like the architecture of the
+twelfth or thirteenth centuries." In his encomium he probably spoke more
+in accordance with convention than with real approbation, for this
+church has been described by many other independent persons as an
+unsightly building, with no architectural beauty whatever; and as far as
+may be gathered from the prints still extant this is the true judgment.
+In 1811 it showed signs of decay, and underwent thorough restoration;
+and in 1869 it was entirely demolished, and the present church built
+from the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott. The spire, added a few years
+later, is only exceeded by two in England--namely, those of Salisbury
+and Norwich Cathedrals.
+
+There are many parish charities, which it would be out of place to
+enumerate here, and among them are several bequests for the cleansing
+and repair of tombs.
+
+The fine shops on the south side of the street inherit a more ancient
+title than might be supposed. Bowack, writing in 1705, speaks of the
+"abundance of shopkeepers and all sorts of artificers" along the
+high-road, "which makes it appear rather like a part of London than a
+country village."
+
+Leaving aside for the time Church Street and all the interesting
+district on the north, we turn to Kensington Square, which was begun
+about the end of James II.'s reign, and from the very first was a
+notably fashionable place, and more especially so after the Court was
+established at Kensington Palace. In Queen Anne's reign, "for beauty of
+buildings and worthy inhabitants," it "exceeds several noted squares in
+London." The eminent inhabitants have indeed been so numerous that it is
+difficult to prevent any account of them from degenerating into a mere
+catalogue. "In the time of George II. the demand for lodgings was so
+great that an Ambassador, a Bishop, and a physician were known to occupy
+apartments in the same house" (Faulkner).
+
+The two houses, Nos. 10 and 11, in the eastern corner on the south side
+are the two oldest that look on to the square. They were reserved for
+the maids of honour when the Court was at Kensington, and the wainscoted
+rooms and little powdering closets speak volumes as to their bygone
+days; these two were originally one house, as the exterior shows. Next
+door is the women's department of King's College. J. R. Green, the
+historian, lived at No. 14 until his death, and in No. 18 John S. Mill
+was living in 1839. Three Bishops at least are known to have been
+domiciled in the square: Bishop Mawson of Ely, who died here in 1770;
+Bishop Herring of Bangor, a very notable prelate, who was afterwards
+Archbishop of Canterbury; and in the south-western corner Bishop Hough
+of Oxford, Lichfield, and Worcester had a fine old house until 1732. The
+Convent of the Assumption now covers the same ground in Nos. 20 to 24.
+The original object of the convent was prayer for the conversion of
+England to the Roman Catholic faith, but the sisters now devote
+themselves to the work of teaching; they have a pleasant garden, more
+than an acre in extent, stretching out at the back of the house. In the
+chapel there is a fresco painting by Westlake.
+
+No. 26 is the Kensington Foundation Grammar School. Talleyrand lived in
+Nos. 36 and 37, formerly one house. He succeeded Bishop Herring in the
+occupancy, after a lapse of fifty years, and the man who had abandoned
+the vocation of the Church to follow diplomacy was thus sheltered by the
+same roof that had sheltered a Churchman by vocation, if ever there were
+one. Many foreign ambassadors patronized the square at various times.
+The Duchess of Mazarin, already mentioned in the volume on Chelsea, was
+here in 1692, and six years later moved to her Chelsea home, where she
+died; but her day was over many years before she came here. Joseph
+Addison lodged in the square for a time, four or five years before his
+marriage with the Countess of Warwick. At No. 41 Sir Edward Burne-Jones
+lived for three years, subsequently removing to West Kensington, but the
+association which has most glorified the square is its proximity to
+Young Street, so long the home of Thackeray. He came to No. 16, then 13,
+in 1846, aged only thirty-five, but with the romance of his life behind
+him. A tablet marks the window in which he used to work. Six years
+previously his wife, whom he had tenderly loved, had developed
+melancholia, and, soon becoming a confirmed invalid, had had to be
+placed permanently under medical care. Their married life had been very
+short, only four or five years, but Thackeray had three little daughters
+to remind him of it. He had passed through many vicissitudes, from the
+comparatively opulent days of youth and the University to the time when
+he had lost all his patrimony and been forced to support himself
+precariously by pen and pencil. Yearly he had become better known, and
+by the time he came to Young Street he was sufficiently removed from
+money troubles to be without that worst form of worry, anxiety for the
+future. He had contributed to the _Times_, _Frazer's Magazine_, and
+_Punch_. It is rather odd to read that at the time when _Punch_ was
+started one of Thackeray's friends was rather sorry that he should
+become a contributor, fearing that it would lower his status in the
+literary world! It was in _Punch_, nevertheless, that his first real
+triumph was won. The "Snob Papers" attracted universal attention, and
+were still running when he moved to Young Street. Here he began more
+serious work, and scarcely a year later "Vanity Fair" was brought out in
+numbers, according to the fashion made popular by Dickens. It did not
+prove an instantaneous success, but by the time it had run its course
+its author's position was assured. In spite of the sorrow that
+overshadowed his domestic life--and he had by this time for many years
+given up any hope of communicating with his wife--the time he spent in
+this house cannot have been unhappy. He had congenial work, many
+friends, among whom were numbered his fellow contributor Leech, also G.
+F. Watts, Herman Merivale, the Theodore Martins, Monckton Milnes,
+Kinglake, and others. He had also his daughters, and he was a loving and
+sympathetic father, realizing that children need brightness in their
+lives as well as mere care, and taking his little family about whenever
+he could to parties and shows; and he had a growing reputation in the
+literary world. "Pendennis" was published in 1848, and before it had
+finished running Thackeray suffered from a severe illness, that left its
+mark on all his succeeding life.
+
+It was after this that Miss Bronte came to dine with him in Young
+Street. She had admired "Vanity Fair" immensely, and was ready to offer
+hero-worship; but the sensitive, dull little governess did not reveal in
+society the fire that had made her books live, and we are told that
+Thackeray, although her host, found the dinner so dull that he slipped
+away to his club before she left. He had now a good income from his
+books, and added to it by lecturing. "Esmond" appeared in 1852, and the
+references to my Lady Castlewood's house in Kensington Square and the
+Greyhound tavern (the name of the inn opposite to Thackeray's own house)
+will be remembered by everyone. The novelist visited America shortly
+after, and then went with his children to Switzerland, and it was in
+Switzerland that the idea for "The Newcomes" came to him. Young Street
+can only claim a part of that book, for in 1853 he moved to Onslow
+Square, and the last number of "The Newcomes" did not appear until 1855.
+However, this was not his last connection with this part of Kensington,
+for in 1861 he built himself a house in Palace Green, but he only
+occupied it for two years, when his death occurred at the early age of
+fifty-two.
+
+The houses in Kensington Court, near by, are elaborately decorated with
+ornamental terra-cotta mouldings. They stand just about the place where
+once was Kensington House, which had something of a history. It was for
+a while the residence of the Duchess of Portsmouth (Louise de
+Querouaille), and later was the school of Dr. Elphinstone, referred to
+in Boswell's "Life of Johnson," and supposed, on the very slightest
+grounds, to have been the original of one of Smollett's brutal
+schoolmasters in "Roderick Random"; though the driest of pedagogues,
+Elphinstone was the reverse of brutal. The house was subsequently a
+Roman Catholic seminary, and then a boarding-house, where Mrs. Inchbald
+lodged, and in which she died in 1821.
+
+Close by was another old house, made notorious by its owner's
+miserliness; this man, Sir Thomas Colby, died intestate, and his fortune
+of L200,000 was divided among six or seven day labourers, who were his
+next of kin. A new Kensington House was built on the site of these two,
+and is said to have cost L250,000, but its owner got into difficulties,
+and eventually the costly house was pulled down, and its fittings sold
+for a twentieth part of their value. Near at hand are De Vere Gardens,
+to which Robert Browning came in June, 1887, from Warwick Crescent.
+
+Further eastward we come to Palace Gate. Some of this property belongs
+to the local charities. It is known as Butts Field Estate, and was so
+called from the fact that the butts for archery practice were once set
+up here.
+
+
+KENSINGTON GARDENS AND PALACE.
+
+The Gardens are so intimately connected with the Palace that it is
+impossible to touch upon the one without the other, and though Leigh
+Hunt caustically remarked that a criticism might be made on Kensington
+that it has "a Palace which is no palace, Gardens which are no gardens,
+and a river called the Serpentine which is neither serpentine nor a
+river," yet in spite of this the Palace, the Gardens, and the river
+annually give pleasure to thousands, and possess attractions of their
+own by no means despicable. The flower-beds in the gardens nearest to
+Kensington Road are beautiful enough in themselves to justify the title
+of gardens. This is the quarter most patronized by nursemaids and their
+charges. There are shady narrow paths, also the Broad Walk, with its
+leafy overarching boughs resembling one of Nature's aisles, and the
+Round Pond, pleasant in spite of its primness. The Gardens were not
+always open to the public, but partly belonged to the palace of
+time-soiled bricks to which the public is now also admitted.
+
+The first house on this site of which we have any reliable detail is
+that built by Sir Heneage Finch, the second of the name, who was Lord
+Chancellor under Charles I. and was created Earl of Nottingham in 1681,
+though it is probable that there had been some building on or near the
+same place before, possibly the manor-house of the Abbot. The first Earl
+of Nottingham had bought the estate from his younger brother, Sir John,
+and it was from his successor, the second earl, that William III. bought
+Nottingham House, as it was then called.
+
+William suffered much from asthma, and the gravel pits of Kensington
+were then considered very healthy, and combined the advantages of not
+being very far from town with the pure air of the country. Of course,
+the house had to be enlarged in order to be suitable for a royal
+residence, but it was not altogether demolished, and there are parts of
+the original Nottingham House still standing, probably the south side of
+the courtyard, where the brick is of a deeper shade than the rest. King
+William's taste in the matter of architecture knew no deviation; his
+model was Versailles, and as he had commissioned Wren to transform the
+Tudor building of Hampton into a palace resembling Versailles, so he
+directed him to repeat the experiment here. The long, low red walls,
+with their neat exactitude, speak still of William's orders; a building
+of heterogeneous growth, with a tower here and an angle there, would
+have disgusted him: his ideal would have found its fulfilment in a
+modern barrack. Wren's taste, later aided by the lapse of time, softened
+down the hard angularity of the building, but it can in no sense be
+considered admirable. Thus Kensington Palace was built, and its walls
+and its park like gardens were to be as closely associated with the
+Hanoverian Sovereigns as the building and park of St. James's had been
+associated with the Stuarts whom William had supplanted.
+
+The Palace was not finished when Queen Mary was seized with small-pox
+and died within its walls, leaving a husband who, though narrow and
+austere, had really loved her. He himself died at Kensington eight years
+later. Good-hearted Queen Anne, whose last surviving child had died two
+years before, took up her residence at the Palace, of which she was
+always extremely fond. The death of her husband in 1708 left her to a
+lonely reign, and she seems to have solaced herself with her garden,
+superintending the laying out of the grounds. She had no taste, and
+everything she ordered was dull and formal; yet she could not spoil the
+natural beauty of the situation, and she still had Wren to direct her
+in architectural matters. The great orangery which goes by her name, and
+now stands empty and forlorn, is seen on nearing the public entrance to
+the state apartments of the Palace, and is in itself a wonderful example
+of Wren's genius for proportion. The private gardens of the Palace must
+not be confounded with the larger grounds, which stretched up to Hyde
+Park. The whole place had a very different aspect at that time: there
+were King William's gardens, with formal flower-beds and walks in the
+Dutch style, and northward lay Queen Anne's additional gardens, very
+much in the same style. The rest was comparatively uncared-for and
+waste. Queen Anne died at Kensington from apoplexy, brought on by
+over-eating, and was succeeded by the first George, who spent so much of
+his time in visiting his Hanoverian dominions that he had not much left
+for performing the merely necessary Court duties at St. James's, and
+none to spare for any lengthy visits to Kensington. However, he admired
+the place, and caused alterations to be made. It was in his reign that
+the ugly annexe on the east side, bearing unmistakably a Georgian
+origin, was added, under the superintendence of William Kent, who had
+supplanted Wren. George's daughter-in-law, "Caroline the Illustrious,"
+loved Kensington, and has left her impress on it more than any other
+occupant. When her husband came to the throne, she spent much of her
+time, during his long absences abroad, at the Palace. She employed Kent
+to do away with William's formal flower-beds, and she added much ground
+to the Gardens, taking for the purpose 100 acres from Hyde Park, and
+dividing the two parks by the Serpentine River, formed from the pools in
+the bed of the Westbourne. There were eleven pools altogether, but in
+later days, when the Westbourne stream had become a mere sewer, in which
+form it still flows underground and empties itself into the Thames near
+Chelsea Bridge, the Chelsea waterworks supplied the running water. The
+elaborate terrace, with its fountains at the north end, is a favourite
+place with children. The statue of Sir William Jenner stands near; it
+was brought from Trafalgar Square. In winter, when frozen over, the
+Serpentine affords skating-room for hundreds of persons, and at other
+times bathing is permitted in the early morning.
+
+In her gardens the fair Queen walked with her bevy of maids of honour,
+that bevy which has always been renowned for its beauty, herself the
+fairest of all. These fascinating, light-hearted girls grew up in an age
+of coarseness and vice, and were surrounded by temptation, which all,
+alas! did not resist, in spite of their royal mistress's example and
+courage. It was an age of meaningless gallantry and real brutality; the
+high-flown compliment and pretended adoration covered cynical intention
+and unabashed effrontery. Caroline herself preserved an untainted name,
+and her influence must have been a rock of salvation to the giddy,
+laughing girls. Leigh Hunt, quoting from the "Suffolk Correspondence,"
+thus summarizes these maids: "There is Miss Hobart, the sweet tempered
+and sincere (now become Mrs. Howard, afterwards Lady Suffolk); Miss
+Howe, the giddiest of the giddy (which she lived to lament); Margaret
+Bellenden, who vied in height with her royal mistress; the beautiful
+Mary Bellenden, her sister, who became Duchess of Argyll; Mary Lepel,
+the lovely, who became Lady Hervey; and Anne Pitt, sister of the future
+Lord Chatham, and as 'like him as two drops of fire.'"
+
+Caroline's devotion to her insignificant little lord and master, and the
+eagerness with which she hastened on foot to meet him, running across
+the Gardens, on his return from the Continent, have been made the
+subject of satire. She was generally accompanied by her five daughters,
+a pathetic little band, cramped in the fetters of royalty, so stringent
+toward their sex. Portraits of two of them may be seen in the Palace.
+
+Caroline did not die at Kensington, though her husband did, after having
+survived her more than twenty years, and having in the meantime
+discovered her inestimable worth. At this time the Gardens were open to
+the public on Saturdays by Queen Caroline's orders, and were a favourite
+parade, though, as everyone was requested to appear in "full dress," the
+numbers must have been limited. The principal promenade was the Broad
+Walk, which Caroline herself had caused to be made. We can picture these
+ghosts of the past, with their gay silks and satins, the silver-buckled
+shoes with coloured heels, the men in their long waistcoats, heavily
+skirted coats, and three-cornered hats--very fine beaux, indeed; and the
+women stiffly encased in the most uncomfortable garments that ever the
+wit of mortal devised, holding their heads erect, lest the marvellous
+pyramids, built up with such expenditure of time and money, should
+topple over, and, in spite of all disadvantages, looking pretty and
+piquant. It was a crowd not so far removed from us by time, so that we
+can attribute to the men and women who composed it the same feelings and
+sensibilities as our own. And yet they were very far removed from us in
+their surroundings, for many of the things that are to us commonplace
+would have been to them miraculous, so that they seem more different
+from us of a hundred years later than from those who preceded them by
+many hundreds of years. It is this mingling of a life we can
+understand, with circumstances so different, that gives the eighteenth
+century its predominant and never-dying charm.
+
+In 1798 we hear of a man being accidentally shot while the keepers were
+hunting (presumably shooting) foxes in Kensington Gardens.
+
+In the Palace itself the state apartments are now open to the public
+every day of the week except Wednesdays. This admittance was granted by
+Queen Victoria in commemoration of her eightieth year. Previously to
+this time the Palace had been allowed to fall into decay, and it needed
+a large grant from Parliament to put it into repair again. The state
+rooms, which are on the second floor, are well worth a visit, and the
+names of each, such as "Queen Mary's Gallery," "Queen Caroline's
+Drawing-room," and "King's Privy Chamber," are above the doors, as at
+Hampton Court. These rooms are nearly all liberally supplied with
+pictures, many of which were restored from Hampton Court after having
+been previously taken there. We see here the winsome face of the poor
+little Duke of Gloucester (p. 72), handsome Queen Caroline, sardonic
+William, and the family group of the children of Frederick, Prince of
+Wales. The selection has been made with judgment, and every picture
+speaks to us of the reigns most closely connected with the Palace. It is
+well to note the view eastward from the King's Drawing-room, which
+comes as a surprise. The outlook is over the Round Pond and down a vista
+of trees to the Serpentine, and gives a surprising effect of distance.
+The rooms that will always attract most attention, however, are those
+which were occupied by Queen Victoria as a child.
+
+When the Duke and Duchess of Kent came to Kensington Palace seven months
+after their marriage, the fact that a child of theirs might occupy the
+English throne was a possibility, but a remote one. George III. was then
+on the throne; the daughter and only child of his eldest son, Princess
+Charlotte, had died a year previously, and it was natural that after
+this event the succession should be considered in a new light. The next
+son, William, Duke of Clarence, had carried on a lifelong connection
+with Mrs. Jordan, by whom he had ten children, and when the death of his
+elder brother's only child made him heir to the throne, it was necessary
+for him to contract a more suitable alliance, so with great reluctance
+he married Adelaide, daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg Meiningen, in
+1818. Frederick, Duke of York, the next in age, had been married for
+many years, but his union had proved childless. He is the Duke
+commemorated in the column in Waterloo Place, and also in the
+soldier-boys' school at Chelsea.
+
+Therefore the birth of a daughter to the Duke of Kent, the fourth son,
+at Kensington Palace on May 24, 1819, was an event of no small
+importance. The room in which the Princess was born was one on the first
+floor, just below the King's Privy Chamber, and it is marked by a brass
+plate. This is not among the state apartments shown to the public, but
+the little room called the Nursery, in which the young Princess played,
+and her small bedroom adjoining, lie in the regular circuit made by
+visitors through the rooms.
+
+The Duke died less than a year after his daughter's birth, so there were
+no small brothers or sisters to share the Princess's childhood; but her
+stepsister, Princess Feodore, her mother's child, was much attached to
+her, and might often be seen walking or driving with her in the Gardens.
+The Nursery has a secondary association, for the Duke and Duchess of
+Teck lived for some time at Kensington Palace, and it was in this room
+that their daughter, the present Princess of Wales, was born.
+
+The chief objects in the room are the dolls' house and other toys, all
+of the plainest description, with which Princess Victoria played as a
+child. There was no extravagance in her bringing up. Her mother was the
+wisest of women, and made no attempt to force the young intellect to
+tasks beyond its powers, nor did she spoil the child by undue
+indulgence. Early rising, morning walks, simple dinner, and games,
+constituted the days that passed rapidly in the seclusion of Kensington.
+When the young Princess had turned the age of five, her lessons began
+under the superintendence of Fraeulein Lehzen, the governess of Princess
+Feodore, who was afterwards raised to the peerage as Baroness Lehzen.
+Though the second of the children of the Duke of Clarence had died
+before Victoria was three years old, and thus her chance of the throne
+was greatly increased, she was not made aware of her prospects until
+much later. The Princess Sophia, daughter of George III., lived in
+Church Street close by, at York House, and the Duke of Sussex, a younger
+son of George III., lived with his morganatic wife, called the Duchess
+of Inverness, in a set of apartments in the Palace. The rooms they
+occupied are those now tenanted by the Duke and Duchess of Argyll; thus
+aunts and an uncle were constantly sharing the simple pleasures of the
+little family circle.
+
+The singularly plain little bedroom near to the Nursery in the Palace is
+that which Princess Victoria occupied during all her happy childhood,
+and it was here that she was awakened to meet the Archbishop and
+Minister who brought her the news that her great inheritance had come
+upon her. The death of the Duke of York had already cleared the way to
+the throne, and as the years went by and the Duke of Clarence had no
+more children, it was seen that the little girl who played at Kensington
+must, if she lived, be Queen of England. When George IV. died, when she
+was eleven years old, her prospects were assured, and since that time
+she had been prepared for her future position. William IV.'s short reign
+of only seven years seated her on the throne when she had just passed
+her eighteenth year. The account of her being awakened in the early
+morning by messengers bearing a message of such tremendous import, her
+hasty rising, and stepping through into the Long Gallery with her hair
+falling over her shoulders, and only a shawl thrown around her, is well
+known to everyone.
+
+The room in which her first Council took place is below the Cube Room.
+No wonder that Queen Victoria had always a tender memory of Kensington
+Palace.
+
+Her favourite daughter, Princess Beatrice of Battenberg, occupies a
+suite of rooms at the Palace, besides Princess Louise, Duchess of
+Argyll; and there are several other occupants--widows, retired army men,
+and those who have some claim on the private generosity of the
+Crown--who live here in sets of apartments, in the same way as others
+live at Hampton Court.
+
+The somewhat untidy forcing-beds which now stand in the immediate
+proximity to the Palace, and which supply the royal parks, are shortly
+to be cleared away--a decided improvement.
+
+Queen Victoria's connection with Kensington did not cease at her
+accession. At Prince Albert's suggestion a great Exhibition was held in
+1851, and the huge palace of glass and iron, which was to house it,
+sprang up in the Gardens at the spot where the Albert Memorial now
+stands. Foreigners from all parts of the world visited the Exhibition,
+and the buildings were crowded. Very different was that crowd from that
+which had promenaded in the Gardens in the reigns of the Georges. Women
+wore coalscuttle bonnets and three-cornered shawls, with the points
+hanging down in the centre of their backs, and crinolines that gave them
+the appearance of inverted tops. Their beauty must have been very potent
+to shine through such a disguise! The profits of the Exhibition amounted
+to L150,000, which was invested in land in South Kensington. The Crystal
+Palace exactly suited the taste of the age, and when it had fulfilled
+the function for which it was primarily intended, the difficulty was to
+know what to do with it; it was not possible to leave it in the Gardens,
+so it was finally transported to Sydenham, where it still annually
+delights thousands.
+
+The Albert Memorial took twenty years to complete, and cost more than
+L130,000. The four groups representing the continents of the world are
+fine both in execution and idea, also the bas-reliefs, in which every
+figure depicts some real person, and the smaller groups of Commerce,
+Manufactures, Agriculture, and Engineering. As much, unfortunately,
+cannot be said for the tawdry statue in its canopy.
+
+It has been necessary to linger long over the Gardens and the Palace,
+but we must now turn northward up Church Street to complete our
+perambulation of the district. In Church Street is the Carmelite Church,
+designed by Pugin, and though very simple in style, not pleasing. It was
+built in 1865. The organ is an especially fine one, and the singing is
+famous. There is a relic of St. Simon Stock beneath the altar, which is
+very highly prized. The monastery extends along the side of Duke's Lane
+at the back of the church. It is rather an ornamental building, with
+stone pinnacles and carved stonework over the doorway. It opens upon the
+corner where Duke's Lane meets Pitt Street, and close by stood
+Bullingham House, where Sir Isaac Newton lived. It has now disappeared,
+and red-brick mansions have risen upon the site.
+
+Mr. Loftie, writing in 1888, says: "When we enter the garden from Pitt
+Street we see there are two distinct houses. One of them to the north
+appears slightly the older of the two, and has an eastward wing,
+slightly projecting from which a passage opened on Church Street. The
+adjoining, or southern, house has greater architectural pretensions, and
+within is of more solid construction. Both have been much pulled about
+and altered at various times, and are now thrown together by passages
+through the walls. A chamber is traditionally pointed out as that in
+which Sir Isaac Newton died."
+
+Sir Isaac at the time he came to Kensington was at the height of his
+fame and reputation, and held the office of Master at the Mint, after
+having been previously Deputy-Master. He had come to London from
+Cambridge, and settled in Leicester Square (see _The Strand_, same
+series), but finding his health suffer in consequence of the dirt and
+smoke, he moved "out of London" to Kensington. He remained here two
+years consecutively, and returned shortly before his death.
+
+He may have been attracted to Kensington by its vicinity to the Palace.
+Queen Caroline, even as Princess of Wales, had always shown an
+inclination for the society of learned men, and in particular had showed
+favour to Sir Isaac. His portrait by Sir Godfrey Kneller hangs in one of
+the state apartments at the Palace.
+
+Bullingham House was probably called after John Bullingham, Bishop of
+Gloucester and Bristol, who died at Kensington in 1598. Later,
+Bullingham House was known at one time as Orbell's buildings, for
+Stephen Pitt, after whom the street is named, had married the daughter
+of Orbell. The house was subsequently used as a boarding-school.
+
+On the eastern side of Church Street are the barracks and one or two
+large houses. In Maitland House lived James Mill, author of the "History
+of India," and father of the better known J. S. Mill. There is a tablet
+to his memory on one of the pillars in the church. York House was, as
+has been said, the home of Princess Sophia, who died here in 1848. This
+house is now to be demolished.
+
+Church Street sweeps to the west a little further on, and at the corner
+stands a Roman Catholic orphanage, where fifty or sixty girls are
+provided for. There is a chapel within the walls, and night-schools are
+held, which are attended by children from outside. The continuation of
+the road northward, which becomes Brunswick Gardens, was made in 1877,
+and as the old vicarage stood right in the way it had to be pulled down.
+Bowack says that the vicarage was "valued yearly in the Queen's [Queen
+Anne's] Book at L18 18s. 4d., but is supposed to be worth near L400 per
+annum." In Vicarage Gate northward is a small church (St. Paul's) served
+by the clergy of St. Mary Abbots. The origin of the name Mall in this
+part of Kensington is not definitely ascertained. It of course refers to
+the game so popular in the reign of the Stuarts, and there may have been
+a ground here, but there is no reference to it in contemporary records.
+In the Mall there is New Jerusalem Church, with an imposing portico. It
+was formerly a Baptist Church, and was bought by the Swedenborgians in
+1872. A bright red-brick church of the Unitarians is a little further
+on. Behind the Mall is Kensington Palace Gardens--really a slice of the
+Gardens--a wide road with immense houses, correctly designated mansions,
+standing back in their own grounds. This road is only open to ordinary
+traffic on sufferance, and is liable to be closed at any time.
+
+The part of Kensington lying to the west of Church Street and extending
+to Notting Hill Gate was that formerly known as the Gravel Pits, and
+considered particularly healthy on account of its dry soil and bracing
+air. Bowack says that here there are "several handsome new-built houses,
+and of late years has been discovered a chalybeate spring." Swift had
+lodgings at the Gravel Pits between 1712 and 1713, and Anne Pitt, sister
+of Lord Chatham, one of the bright bevy of Queen Caroline's maids of
+honour, is reported to have died at her house at the Gravel Pits in
+1780.
+
+The most celebrated house here was Campden House, completely rebuilt
+fifty years ago, and entirely demolished within the last two years. Old
+Campden House was called after Sir Baptist Hicks, created Viscount
+Campden. It is said that he won the land on which it stands from Sir
+Walter Cope at a game, and thereupon built the house. This is the
+generally accepted version of the affair, but it is probable that there
+was some sort of a house standing here already. Bowack says: "Two
+houses, called Holland and Campden Houses, were built ... by Mr. Cope
+... erected before the death of Queen Elizabeth." And, again (quoting
+from the Rev. C. Seward), "The second seat called Campden House was
+purchased or won at some sort of game of Sir Walter Cope by Sir Baptist
+Hicks." He adds that it was a "very noble Pile and finished with all the
+art the Architects of that time were capable of." The mere fact of such
+a prize being won at a game of chance was likely enough in the days when
+gaming ran high. Lysons, on the other hand, distinctly says that the
+house "was built about 1612 by Sir Baptist Hicks, whose arms with that
+date and those of his sons-in-law, Edward, Lord Noel, and Sir Charles
+Morrison, are in a large bay-window in the front." It is most probable
+that Sir Baptist, on taking over the estate and the house then existing,
+so restored it as to amount to an almost complete rebuilding. He was
+created Viscount Campden in 1628, with remainder to Lord Noel, who
+succeeded him. Lord Noel's son, Baptist, the third Viscount, had
+Royalist tendencies, for which he was mulcted in the sum of L9,000
+during the Rebellion. He married for his fourth wife Elizabeth, daughter
+of the Earl of Lindsey, and the Earl himself died at Campden House. The
+title went to Viscount Campden's eldest son Edward, who was created Earl
+of Gainsborough, and in default of male issue it afterwards reverted to
+his younger brother. The house itself had been settled on another son,
+Henry, who died before his father, leaving a daughter, who married
+Richard Boyle, third Earl of Burlington. Previous to this Queen (then
+Princess) Anne had taken the house for five years on account of her only
+surviving child, William Henry, Duke of Gloucester. There are few
+stories in history more pathetic than that of this poor little Prince,
+the only one of Anne's seventeen children who survived infancy. With his
+unnaturally large head and rickety legs, he would in these days have
+been kept from all intellectual effort, and been obliged to lie down the
+greater part of his time. But in that age drastic treatment was in
+favour, and the already precocious child was crammed with knowledge,
+while his sickly little frame was compelled to undergo rigorous
+discipline. He was a boy of no small degree of character, and with
+martial tastes touching in one so feeble. He died at the age of eleven
+of small-pox, not at Kensington, and perhaps it was as well for him
+that, with such inordinate sensibility and such a constitution, he did
+not live to inherit his mother's throne. His servant Lewis, who was
+devotedly attached to him, wrote a little biography of him, which is one
+of the curiosities of literature.
+
+In 1704 the Dowager-Countess of Burlington came here with her son
+Richard, then only a boy, afterwards famous as an architect and art
+lover. In 1719 the house was sold, and came into possession of the
+Lechmere family. It did not remain with them long, but was purchased by
+Stephen Pitt, who let it as a school. In 1862 it was partially destroyed
+by fire. It was then bought by the Metropolitan Railway Company, who
+rebuilt it, and let it to tenants. Later on a charmingly-built row of
+houses and mansions rose up on its grounds to face Sheffield Terrace.
+The appearance of the later house was very different from that of the
+old one, and the arms mentioned by Lysons as being over a front window
+had quite disappeared.
+
+Little Campden House, on the western side, was built for the suite of
+the Princess Anne, and Stephen Pitt occupied this himself when he let
+Campden House. It was latterly divided into two houses; one was called
+Lancaster Lodge, and the other, after being renovated and redecorated,
+was taken by Vicat Cole, R.A., until his death.
+
+Gloucester Walk, on the south side, is, of course, called after the poor
+little Duke. Sheffield Gardens and Terrace, as well as Berkeley Gardens,
+stand on the site of old Sheffield House. Leigh Hunt says that the house
+was owned by Sheffield, Duke of Buckinghamshire, but he adduces no fact
+in support of his assertion; in any case, there are no historical
+associations connected with it.
+
+In Observatory Gardens Sir James South, the astronomer, had a house,
+where there was a large observatory. He mounted an equatorial telescope
+in the grounds, by the use of which, some years previously, he and Sir
+J. Herschel had made a catalogue of 380 binary stars. He strenuously
+resisted any opening up of the district by road or rail, lest the
+vibrations of traffic should interfere with his delicate observations
+and render them useless. He died here in 1867. On the south side of
+Campden Hill Gardens are a number of houses standing in their own
+grounds, and, from the rank of their residents, this part has gained the
+name of the "Dukeries." Holly Lodge was named Airlie Lodge for a few
+years when tenanted by the Earl of Airlie, but reverted to the older
+name afterwards. Airlie Gardens is a reminiscence of the interlude.
+Lord Macaulay lived for the three years preceding his death in Holly
+Lodge.
+
+Holland Lane is a shady footpath running right over the hill from
+Kensington Road to Notting Hill Gate; it passes the wall of Aubrey
+House, once the manor-house of Notting Hill. Though the name is a
+comparatively new one, the house is old and, to use the favourite word
+of older writers, much "secluded"; it is shut in from observation by its
+high wall and by the shady trees surrounding it. The building is very
+picturesque and the garden charming, yet many people pass it daily and
+never know of its existence.
+
+St. George's Church, Campden Hill Road, dates from 1864; the interior is
+spoilt by painted columns and heavy galleries, but the stained glass at
+the east end is very richly coloured, and there is a carved stone
+reredos. The tower is high, but it is dwarfed by the tower of the Grand
+Junction Waterworks near at hand. Across Campden Hill Road is the
+reservoir of the West Middlesex Water Company, which, from its
+commanding elevation, supplies a large district by the power of
+gravitation.
+
+Holland Park is a great irregular oblong, extending from Kensington Road
+on the south very nearly to Holland Park Road on the north. Its average
+length is little more than a mile, and it varies from five-eighths of a
+mile in its widest part to a quarter of a mile in the narrowest.
+
+In the summary of the history of Kensington, at the beginning of the
+book, it was mentioned that when Sir Walter Cope bought the manor at the
+end of the sixteenth century, Robert Horseman had the lease of the
+Abbot's manor-house, and being unwilling to part with it, he made a
+compromise by which he was to be still permitted to live there. Sir
+Walter Cope had, therefore, no suitable manor-house, so in 1607 he built
+Holland House, which at first went by the name of Cope Castle. He died
+seven years later, leaving his widow in possession, but on her
+re-marriage, in another seven years, the house came to Cope's daughter
+Isabel, who had married Sir Henry Rich. He was created Lord Kensington a
+year later, and in 1624 made Earl of Holland. He added considerably to
+the house, which was henceforth known by his name. Holland was a younger
+son of the Earl of Warwick, and after his execution for having taken
+arms in the cause of Charles I., this title descended, through lack of
+heirs in the elder branch, to his son, as well as that of Earl of
+Holland.
+
+The house was seized by the Commonwealth, and the Parliamentary
+Generals, Fairfax and Lambert, lived there. Timbs quotes from the
+_Perfect Diurnal_, July 9 to 16, 1649: "The Lord-General Fairfax is
+removed from Queen Street to the late Earl of Holland's house at
+Kensington, where he intends to reside." The house was restored to its
+rightful owners at the Restoration. The widowed Countess seems later to
+have let it, for there were several notable tenants, among whom was Sir
+Charles Chardin, the traveller, who went to Persia with the avowed
+intention of seeking a fortune, which he certainly gained, in addition
+to unexpected celebrity. He died in 1735, and is buried at Chiswick.
+Afterwards, William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was a tenant of
+Holland House; the name of Van Dyck has also been mentioned in this
+connection, but there is not sufficient evidence to make it more than a
+tradition.
+
+Joseph Addison married the widow of the sixth Earl of Holland and
+Warwick in 1716. He was an old family friend and had known her long, yet
+the experiment did not turn out satisfactorily. The Countess was
+something of a termagant, and it is said that to escape from her he
+often went to the White Horse inn at the corner of Lord Holland's Lane
+and there enjoyed "his favourite dish--a fillet of veal--his bottle, and
+perhaps a friend." His married life was of very short duration, only
+three years, but his brief residence at Holland House has added to its
+associations more richly than all the names of preceding times. Addison
+had attempted from the first to influence the young Earl, whose
+stepfather he became, and some of his letters to the youth are
+singularly charming, but his care seems to have been ill-requited, and
+the famous death-bed scene, in which the man of letters sent for the
+dissolute young Earl to "see how a Christian can die," was as much in
+the nature of a rebuke as a warning. Addison left only one daughter, who
+died unmarried. The last earl died in 1759, leaving no male heir, and
+the title became extinct.
+
+Through an Elizabeth Rich, who had married Francis Edwardes, the estates
+passed into the Edwardes family, by whom they were sold to Henry Fox,
+second son of Sir Stephen Fox, Paymaster-General of the Forces in the
+reign of Charles II., through whose exertions it was in great part that
+Chelsea Hospital was built. Henry Fox followed in his father's steps,
+becoming Paymaster-General under George II., and was created Baron
+Holland in 1763. His second son was the famous statesman Charles James
+Fox. Thus, after the lapse of about four years only, the old title was
+revived in an entirely different family. Henry Fox's elder brother was
+created first Baron, and then Earl, of Ilchester, which is the title of
+the present owner of Holland House.
+
+The plan of the house is that of a capital letter E with the centre
+stroke extremely small, and was designed by Thorpe, but added to by
+Inigo Jones and others. Sir Walter Cope's building in 1607 included the
+centre block and two porches, and the first Earl of Holland, between the
+years 1725 and 1735, added the two wings and the arcades. It is in a
+good style of Elizabethan domestic architecture, and within is full of
+nooks and corners and unexpected galleries, betraying that variety which
+can only come from growth, and is never the result of a set plan. The
+rooms are magnificent, and are exceptionally rich in their fittings and
+collections--collections by various owners which have made the whole
+house a museum. On the ground floor are the Breakfast, China, Map,
+Journal, and Print rooms--the last three known as the West
+Rooms--Allen's Room, and the White Parlour. On the first floor the most
+important rooms are the Gilt, Miniature, and the Yellow Drawing-room,
+the Sir Joshua Blue-room and Dining-room, and Lady Holland's apartments.
+
+In the entrance-hall are busts of the Duke of Cumberland, by Rysbrach;
+Francis, Duke of Bedford, and Charles James Fox, by Nollekens; the Right
+Hon. J. Hookham Frere, by Chantrey, and others. The staircase has a
+frescoed ceiling, by G. F. Watts, R.A., who has done much for the
+decoration of the house, and who lives in Melbury Road hard by. There
+is on the staircase a massive oaken screen with pillars, matching the
+carved balustrade. The Breakfast-room, facing south, is a charming room;
+it was formerly the hall when the main entrance was on this side of the
+house. The walls are hung with velvet brocade and rich silk, and
+panelled with four _arazzi_, enclosed in strips of gold embroidery. The
+tapestries are Gobelins, by Coypel, director of the Gobelin
+establishment. The China-room contains some splendid services, chiefly
+of Sevres and Dresden. The rooms called the West Rooms contain many
+treasures: a collection of prints after Italian masters, and some of the
+Dutch and French schools. From these is reached the Swannery, a large
+room on the west side of the house, built by the present owner, and
+finished in 1891; here there is an ornamental painting of swans by
+Bouverie Goddard, which was exhibited in the Royal Academy. Allen's Room
+owes its name to John Allen, an intimate friend of the third Lord
+Holland, who accompanied him abroad, and was his confidant until his
+death, after which Allen continued to live at Holland House. The
+description of the White Parlour in any detail would be impossible, so
+elaborate is the decoration of its mouldings and panels. In this room
+there are two chests, the property of Sir Stephen Fox, the
+Paymaster-General, and very interesting specimens of their time they
+are. In the Gilt Room upstairs are curved recesses prepared by the first
+Earl of Holland, who proposed entertaining Prince Charles at a ball when
+he married Princess Henrietta Maria; however, in spite of the elaborate
+preparations, the ball never took place. The medallions of the King and
+Queen, Sully, and Henri IV. are still on the lower part of the
+chimney-breasts. The upper parts of the chimneypieces and the ceiling
+were done by Francis Cleyn, who decorated much at Versailles; and when
+the chimneypieces came down, in 1850, G. F. Watts, R.A., painted the
+gilt figures on the upper portions. The gilding and decoration of all
+the rest of the room have never been touched since Charles I.'s day. The
+ceiling is, however, modern, copied from one at Melbury of date 1602.
+The Sir Joshua Room would probably be more attractive to many people
+than any other in the house; there is here the "Vision of St. Anthony,"
+by Murillo, also a Velasquez, two Teniers, and many portraits by Sir
+Joshua, including those of Charles James Fox, the first Lord Holland,
+Mary, Lady Holland, and Lady Sarah Lennox, whose "Life and Letters" have
+been edited by Lady Ilchester and her son, Lord Stavordale. In the
+Addison or dining room there are several other portraits and more china,
+including the famous Chelsea service presented by the proprietors of the
+Chelsea Company to Dr. Johnson in recognition of his laborious and
+unsuccessful efforts to learn their trade. From here we can pass to the
+library, a long gallery running the whole width of the house, as a
+library should do. Besides ordinary books, the library contains
+priceless treasures, such as a collection of Elzevirs, a collection of
+Spanish literature, a MS. book with the handwritings of Savonarola,
+Petrarch, several autograph letters of Philip II., III., and IV. of
+Spain, and autographs of D. Hume, Byron, Sir D. Wilkie, Moore, Rogers,
+Campbell, Sir W. Scott, Southey, and foreigners of note, as Madame de
+Stael, Cuvier, Buffon, Voltaire, etc.
+
+From the Yellow Drawing-room, in which, among other things, is a curious
+picture representing one eye of Lady Holland, by Watts, the Miniature
+Room is reached: miniature in two senses, for, besides containing an
+assortment of miniatures, it is very small. The miniatures are mostly
+Cosways, Plymers, and Coopers. On January 10, 1871, Holland House caught
+fire, and the chief rooms that suffered were those known as Lady
+Holland's Rooms, on this side. Luckily the fire did not do much damage,
+and all trace of it was speedily effaced.
+
+Holland House is not shown to the public, and few persons have any idea
+of the treasures it contains; to live in such a house must be a liberal
+education. It can hardly be seen at all in summer on account of the
+extent of the grounds of 55 acres stretching around it, and making it a
+country place in the midst of a town. It has the largest private grounds
+of any house in London, not excepting Buckingham Palace, yet from the
+road all that can be seen is a rather dreary field. Oddly enough, there
+is a considerable hill on the west, though no trace of this hill is to
+be found in Kensington Road; it is, however, the same fall that affects
+Holland Park Avenue on the north. Besides the fine elms bordering the
+avenue, there are a variety of other trees in the grounds, among them
+many cedars, still flourishing, though beginning to show the effects of
+the London smoke. Excepting for the Dutch Garden, with its prim, though
+fantastically-designed flower-beds, there is little attempt at formal
+gardening. Here stands the seat used by the poet Rogers, on which is the
+inscription:
+
+    "Here Rogers sat, and here for ever dwell
+    With me those 'Pleasures' which he sang so well."
+
+An ivy-covered arcade leads to the conservatory, and various buildings
+form a picturesque group near; these belonged at one time to the
+stables, now removed. Not far off is the bamboo garden, in a flourishing
+condition, with large clumps of feathery bamboos bravely enduring our
+rough climate; in another part is a succession of terraces, through
+which a stream runs downhill through a number of basins linked by a
+circling channel; the basins are covered with water-lilies, and the
+whole is laid out in imitation of a Japanese garden. Alpine plants are
+specially tended in another part, and masses of rhododendrons grow
+freely in the grounds, giving warmth and shelter. There is nothing stiff
+or conventional to be seen--Nature tended and cared for, but Nature
+herself is allowed to reign, and the result is very satisfactory. There
+are many fascinating peeps between the rows of shrubs or trees of the
+worn red brick of the house, seen all the better for its contrast with
+the deep evergreen of the cedars.
+
+In a field close by Cromwell is said to have discussed his plans with
+Ireton, whose deafness necessitated loud tones, so that the open air,
+where possible listeners could be seen at a distance, was preferable to
+the four walls of a room. In the fields behind Holland House was fought
+a notable duel in 1804 between Lord Camelford, a notorious duellist, and
+Captain Best, R.N. Lord Camelford fired first, but missed his opponent.
+He afterwards fell at Best's shot, and was carried into Little Holland
+House, where he died in three days. The exact spot where the duel was
+fought is now enclosed in the grounds of Oak Lodge, and is marked by a
+stone altar.
+
+To the west of Holland House is Melbury Road, a neighbourhood famous for
+its artistic residents. The houses, mostly of glowing red brick, are
+built in different styles, as if each had been designed to fill its own
+place without reference to its neighbours. A curious Gothic house, with
+a steeple on the north side, was designed by William Burges, R.A., for
+himself. In the house next to it, now the residence of Luke Fildes,
+R.A., King Cetewayo stayed while he was in England. Sir Frederick
+Leighton, P.R.A., lived at No. 2, which has been presented to the
+nation. Little Holland House, otherwise No. 6, Melbury Road, is occupied
+by G. F. Watts, R.A. The name was adopted from the original Little
+Holland House, which stood at the end of Nightingale Lane, now the back
+entrance to Holland Park; this house was pulled down when Melbury Road
+was made.
+
+Melbury Road turns into Addison Road just below the church of St.
+Barnabas, which is of white brick, and has a parapet and four corner
+towers, which give it a distinctive appearance. The interior is
+disappointing, but there is a fine eastern window, divided by a transom,
+and having seven compartments above and below. Quite at the northern end
+of Holland Road is the modern church of St. John the Baptist; the
+interior is all of white stone, and the effect is very good. There is a
+rose window at the west end, and a carved stone chancel screen of great
+height. The church ends in an apse, and has a massive stone reredos set
+with coloured panels representing the saints. All this part of
+Kensington which lies to the west of Addison Road is very modern. In the
+1837 map, St. Barnabas Church, built seven years earlier, and a line of
+houses on the east side of the northern part of Holland Road, are all
+that are marked. Near the continuation of Kensington Road there are a
+few houses, and there is a farm close to the Park.
+
+Curzon House is marked near the Kensington Road, and a large nursery
+garden is at the back of it; and further north, where Addison Road
+bends, there are Addison Cottage and Bindon Villa, and this is all.
+Addison's connection with Holland House of course accounts for the free
+use of his name in this quarter.
+
+Going northward, we come to the district of Shepherd's Bush and the
+Uxbridge Road, known in the section of its course between Notting Hill
+High Street and Uxbridge Road Station as Holland Park Avenue--a fact of
+which probably none but the residents are aware. Above it, Norland Road
+forms the western boundary of the borough. Royal Crescent is marked on
+the maps of the beginning of the nineteenth century as Norland Crescent;
+Addison Road was then Norland Road. Further westward is the square of
+the same name, on the site of old Norland House.
+
+[Illustration: KENSINGTON DISTRICT--SOUTH HALF.
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+Addison Road leads up to St. James's Church, designed by Vulliamy, and
+consecrated in 1845; it has a square tower of considerable height, with
+a pinnacle at each corner. The chancel was added later. St. Gabriel's,
+in Clifton Road, is an offshoot of this church, but, curiously enough,
+it does not come within the parochial boundaries. It was built in 1883.
+Following the road on the north side of the square, we pass the West
+London Tabernacle, a brick building in the late Romanesque style. Close
+by are St. James's Schools.
+
+St. John's Place leads us past Pottery Lane, a reminiscence of the
+potteries once here, round which sprang up a notoriously bad district.
+The brickfields were hard by, and the long, low, red-tiled roofs of the
+brick-sheds face a space of open ground known as Avondale Park. The Park
+stands on a piece of ground formerly known as Adam's Brickfield. It was
+suggested at one time that this should be used for the site of a
+refuse-destroyer, but it was bought instead by the Vestry for the sum of
+L9,200 to be turned into a public park. The late Metropolitan Board of
+Works provided L4,250 towards the sum, and the Metropolitan Public
+Gardens and Open Spaces Association gave L2,000. The laying-out of the
+ground, which covers about 41/2 acres, cost L8,000 more, and the Park
+was formally opened June 2, 1892, though it had been informally open to
+the public for more than a year before this date. The most has been made
+of the ground, which includes two large playgrounds, provided with
+swings, ropes, seesaws, etc., for the children of the neighbouring
+schools, who come here to the number of three or four hundred. Just at
+the back of the Park, on the west side, lie St. Clement's Board Schools,
+and on the east St. John's Church Schools. Returning through Pottery
+Lane, we see facing us at the upper end large brick schools covered with
+Virginia creeper, adjacent to a small brick Gothic church. This is the
+church of St. Francis, a Roman Catholic Mission Church, in connection
+with St. Mary of the Angels, in Westmoreland Road. It was built about
+thirty-three years ago by Rev. D. Rawes at his own cost, and contains
+some very beautiful panels on slate by Westlake representing the
+Stations of the Cross, which were the first done on that material in
+England. There is also a painting by the same artist on the pulpit. The
+baptistery, added later, was designed by Bentley, the late architect of
+the new cathedral at Westminster. The schools adjacent are for girls and
+infants, and the boys are accommodated at the buildings in the
+Silchester Road.
+
+Hippodrome Place leads past the north side of the school to Portland
+Road. A great part of the district lying to the east of this, and
+including Clarendon Road, Portobello Road, and Ladbroke Grove, was
+formerly covered by an immense racecourse called the Hippodrome. It
+stretched northward in a great ellipse, and then trended north-west and
+ended up roughly where is now the Triangle, at the west end of St.
+Quintin Avenue. It was used for both flat racing and steeplechasing, and
+the steeplechase course was more than two miles in length. The place was
+very popular, being within easy reach of London, but the ground was
+never very good for the purpose, as it was marshy. The Hippodrome was
+opened in 1837, and Count d'Orsay was one of the stewards; the last race
+took place in 1841. St. John's Church stands on a hill, once a grassy
+mound within the Hippodrome enclosure, which is marked in a contemporary
+map "Hill for pedestrians," apparently a sort of natural grand-stand.
+The Church was consecrated in 1845, four years after the closing of the
+racecourse. The entrance to the racecourse was in what is now Park Road,
+just above Ladbroke Road, near the Norbury Chapel. The district,
+therefore, all dates from the latter half of the nineteenth century; it
+is well laid out, with broad streets and large houses, though north of
+Lansdowne Road the quarter is not so good. It is very difficult to find
+anything interesting to record of this part of Kensington; a
+perambulation there must be, or the borough would be left incompletely
+described, but such a perambulation can only resolve itself into a
+catalogue of churches and schools. Ladbroke Grove goes down the steep
+hill above noticed. St Mark's Church gives its name to the road in which
+it stands: it was consecrated in 1863.
+
+Northward, at the corner of Lancaster Road, stands a fine Wesleyan
+chapel in the Early English style, with quatrefoil and cinquefoil stone
+tracery in the windows. It is built of white brick and has large schools
+below. The foundation stone was laid in 1879 and the church opened May
+20, 1880. Very nearly opposite to it are the large brick buildings of
+the Kensington Public Baths. Between the Lancaster and Walmer Roads we
+come again to the very poor district extending from the Potteries. In
+Fowell Street there is a square, yellow brick Primitive Methodist
+chapel, with a stone stating that it was founded "Aug. 2nd, 1864, by J.
+Fowell, who gave the land." Fowell Street leads into Bomore Road, at the
+corner of which stands Notting Dale Chapel; this is a plain brick
+building founded in 1851. In the other direction, westward, Bomore Road
+takes us past the top of St. Clement's Road, and turning into this we
+pass St. Clement's Church, opened in 1867. It is a plain yellow and red
+brick building, but the walls of the chancel are decorated, and there is
+a pretty east window. The parish contains 12,000 people, and is one of
+the poorest in London, not even excepting the worst of the East End.
+
+Mary Place is at right angles to St. Clement's Road, and in this there
+is a supplementary workhouse. It contains the relief office, large
+casual wards, the able-bodied workhouse, and a Poor Law Dispensary.
+Opposite are large Board Schools; the Roman Catholic Schools in the
+Silchester Road have been already mentioned in connection with the
+Catholic Schools of St. Francis. On the northern side of Silchester Road
+is the Notting Barn Tavern, which stands on the site of the old Notting
+Barns Farm. Beyond Walmer Road, northwards, are a few rows of houses,
+and a Board School, and a great stretch of common reaching to St.
+Quintin Avenue. The backs of the houses in Latimer Road are seen across
+the common on the west; these houses, however, lie without the
+Kensington boundary line. A road called St. Helen's Gardens bounds the
+common on the east, and leads to St. Helen's Church, which is a severely
+plain red-brick building. North of St. Quintin Avenue is another great
+stretch of common, and at its south-eastern corner lies St. Charles's
+Square. The square was named after St. Charles's College, a Roman
+Catholic establishment, which forms an imposing mass at the east side.
+The College was founded by Cardinal Manning. It was humble in its
+origin, beginning in 1863 with a few young boys in a room near the
+church of St. Mary of the Angels, Bayswater. Other houses were taken as
+necessity arose, and in 1872 the numbers were so great that the question
+of building a suitable college arose. There was at first a difficulty
+about obtaining the freehold of the site desired--that on which the
+present building stands--but this was overcome eventually, and the whole
+cost of the College came to about L40,000. It stands in a square of 11
+acres, and was finished in 1874. The building is of red brick with stone
+facings, and is ornamented by figures of saints; it is about 300 feet in
+extent. In the centre is a tower, rising to a height of 140 feet, on
+which are the Papal Tiara and Crossed Keys. A corridor runs nearly the
+length of the building inside. On the laying-out of the recreation
+grounds and gardens between one and two thousand pounds has been spent.
+
+The object of the College is to bring education within the reach of all
+scholars at a moderate cost. The students do not necessarily become
+priests, but enter various professions, and in 1890 it was reckoned
+that no less than 1,200 youths had passed through the curriculum. A
+museum and library are among the rooms. And standing as it does on the
+outskirts of London, with much open ground in the vicinity, the building
+is very favourably situated for its purpose.
+
+Over the garden walls of the College we see the high buildings of the
+Marylebone Infirmary. Further northward are the western gasworks, and
+just beyond them the well-known cemetery of Kensal Green. The principal
+entrance is a great stone gateway of the Doric order with iron gates in
+the Harrow Road. Avenues of young lime-trees, chestnuts, and tall
+Lombardy poplars line the walks, between which a straight central
+roadway leads to the church at the west end. The multitude of tombstones
+within the cemetery is bewildering. On either side of the way are
+immense sepulchres of granite, marble, or stone. Some in the Gothic
+style resemble small chapels; others, again, are in an Egyptian style.
+The church and the long colonnades of the catacombs are built in the
+same way as the gateway. The cemetery contains 77 acres, and the first
+burial took place in 1833. The grave of the founder, with a stone
+inscribed "George Frederick Carden, died 1874, aged 76," lies not far
+from the chapel, with a plain slab at the head.
+
+The roll of those buried here includes many illustrious names: The Duke
+of Sussex, died 1843, and the Princess Sophia, died 1848, both of whom
+we have already met in another part of Kensington; Anne Scott and Sophia
+Lockhart, daughters of Sir W. Scott; his son-in-law, J. G. Lockhart;
+Allan Cunningham, died 1842; Rev. Sydney Smith, died 1845; W. Mackworth
+Praed, 1839; Tom Hood, died 1845; I. K. Brunel, died 1859; Charles
+Kemble, died, 1854; Leigh Hunt, died 1859; W. M. Thackeray, died 1863;
+J. Leech, died 1863; Sir Charles Eastlake, P.R.A., died 1865; Charles
+Babbage, P.R.S., died 1871; Anthony Trollope, died 1882; besides many
+others distinguished in literature, art, or science.
+
+The name Kensal possibly owes its derivation to the same source as
+Kensington, but there is no certainty in the matter.
+
+The Grand Junction Canal runs along the south side of the cemetery, and
+the borough boundary cuts across it at Ladbroke Grove Road. There is a
+Roman Catholic church in Bosworth Road; it is of red brick, with pointed
+windows, and is called Our Lady of the Holy Souls. The mission was
+established here in 1872, and the present building opened in 1882. In
+the interior the arches and pillars are of white stone, and the
+altar-piece is a large coloured panel painting. In Bosworth Road,
+further southward, there is a very small Baptist chapel with plaster
+front. The church of St. Andrew and St. Philip stands to the east in
+Golborne Gardens. It was built in 1869, and is of red brick with stone
+facings in the French Gothic style. In the upper or northern part of
+Mornington Road, on the eastern side, is a large Board School, where
+special instruction is given to blind, or partially blind, children. On
+the opposite side, slightly further up, is Christ Church, a model of
+simplicity, and within it is light, lofty, and well proportioned. It has
+a narthex at the east end. The font is a solid block of red-veined
+Devonshire marble. The church was founded in August, 1880, and
+consecrated May 14, 1881.
+
+In Golborne Road we pass a plaster-fronted brick chapel
+(Congregational). The Portobello Road is of immense length, running
+north-west and south-east. This quarter is not so aristocratic as its
+high-sounding name would lead us to infer. Faulkner gives us the origin
+of the name. "Near the turnpike is Porto Bello Lane, leading to the farm
+so called, which was the property of Mr. A. Adams, the builder, at the
+time that Porto Bello was captured." He adds: "This is one of the most
+rural and pleasant walks in the summer in the vicinity of London." So
+much could not be said now, for in the lower part the road is very
+narrow and is lined with inferior shops. The Porto Bello Farm seems to
+have stood almost exactly on the site of the present St. Joseph's Home
+for the Aged Poor, which is just below the entrance of the Golborne
+Road, and is on the east side. This is a large brick building, in which
+many aged men and women are supported by the contributions collected
+daily by the Sisters. It is a Roman Catholic institution, and was
+founded by a Frenchman in 1861, but the benefits of the charity are not
+confined to Roman Catholics. It was humble in its origin, beginning in a
+private house in Sutherland Avenue. The present building was erected for
+the purpose when the charity increased in size. There is a chapel in
+connection with the building. Exactly opposite is the Franciscan
+Convent, with its appendage, the Elizabeth Home for Girls. The building,
+of brick, looks older than that of St. Joseph's. Behind the convent runs
+St. Lawrence's Road, between which and Ladbroke Grove Road stands the
+church of St. Michael and All Angels, founded in 1870, and consecrated
+the following year. It is of brick, in the Romanesque style, forming a
+contrast to the numerous so-called Gothic churches in the parish.
+
+If we continue southwards, either by Portobello or Ladbroke Grove Roads,
+we pass under the Hammersmith and City Junction Railway, carried
+overhead by bridges. Ladbroke Hall stands south of the bridge in
+Ladbroke Grove, and a large Board School in Portobello Road. A little
+further south in Ladbroke Grove is a branch of the Kensington Public
+Library, opened temporarily in the High Street, January, 1888, and
+established here October, 1891.
+
+In Cornwall Road is the entrance to the Convent of the Poor Clares,
+which is a large brick building, covering, with its grounds, 13/4
+acres, and which was built for the convent purposes in 1859, having been
+founded by Cardinal (then Father) Manning. The nuns, numbering about
+thirty, are vowed to the contemplative life of prayer and manual labour
+in the service of God, but do no teaching or nursing, and there are no
+lay sisters. The next opening on the south side of Cornwall Road is
+Kensington Park Road, in which stands a Presbyterian church, built of
+light brick. On the north side of Cornwall Road is Basing Road, in which
+is a Congregational chapel of white brick. In Talbot Road we see the
+high lantern tower of All Saints' Church, founded in 1852, and
+consecrated 1861. Its tower is supposed to resemble the belfry of
+Bruges, and is 100 feet in height. The mission church of St. Columb's at
+Notting Hill Station is in connection with All Saints', and ministered
+to by the same clergy.
+
+A few yards further on in Talbot Road is the entrance to the Talbot
+Tabernacle. The building stands back from the road, behind iron gates,
+and is faced with blazing red brick, while over the doorways is a
+profusion of ornamental moulding.
+
+The streets lying to the south of Talbot Road require no particular
+comment. At the corner of Archer Street, Kensington Park Road takes a
+sudden south-easterly turn, and below the turn is St. Peter's Church,
+very different from the other churches in the district, being in the
+Italian style. It was consecrated January 7, 1876. The decoration of the
+interior is very elaborate, some of the pillars having gilded capitals.
+In Denbigh Road there is a stuccoed Wesleyan Methodist chapel, dated
+1856. Northward runs Norfolk Terrace, lately merged in Westbourne Grove.
+In it, at the corner of Ledbury Road, stands the Westbourne Grove
+Baptist Chapel, a fine gray stone building with two southern steeple
+towers.
+
+The southern end of Pembridge Road is joined at an angle by Kensington
+Park Road, and at the corner stands Horbury Congregational Chapel,
+founded in August, 1848. It is built of gray stone and stands in a good
+position. Nos. 1 to 15, Clanricarde Gardens, and six shops in Notting
+Hill High Street, belong to the poor of Kensington; they are built on
+land given to the parish by an anonymous benefactor in 1652. This is
+known as Cromwell's gift, but there is not the smallest evidence to
+show that Cromwell was the donor. Lysons mentions the tradition, but
+confesses there is no evidence to support it.
+
+And now we have traversed Kensington from end to end, and in so doing
+have come across many notable men and many fair women. Kensington is
+royal among suburbs on account of its Palace, and its annals include
+history as well as the anecdotes of great men. Yet though old
+associations live in name and tradition, none of the buildings, as at
+present standing, date back further than the older parts of Holland
+House and Kensington Palace, and the greater part are much more modern.
+The zenith of Kensington's popularity was not reached until after the
+Hanoverian Sovereigns sat on the English throne, and this is a mere
+nothing in time compared with that enjoyed by some parts of outer
+London--for instance, Chelsea. That there should be so much to say about
+the district, in spite of its comparative youth, shows how richly it has
+been peopled. Statesmen, men of letters, royalties, court beauties, and
+divines we have met. One of the greatest of our novelists and our
+greatest philosopher were closely connected with Kensington, and the
+tour made around the borough may fitly rival in interest any but those
+taken in the very heart of London.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abbot's Manor, 7, 10, 46
+
+"Adam and Eve," 41
+
+Addison, Joseph, 35, 50, 77
+
+Addison Road, 85
+
+Albert Gate, 12
+
+Albert Hall, 25
+
+Albert Memorial, 66
+
+Alexandra House, 28
+
+Allen Street, 40
+
+Anne, Queen, 56
+
+Aubrey House, 75
+
+
+Bangor, Bishop of, 49
+
+Barker, Christopher, 9
+
+Barracks, The, 14
+
+Blessington, Lady, 26
+
+Boltons, The, 33
+
+Boyle, Richard, 35
+
+Bray, Sir Reginald, 9
+
+Brompton, 4
+
+Brompton Cemetery, 35
+
+Brompton Grove, 16
+
+Brompton Heath, 33
+
+Brompton Park, 19
+
+Brompton Road, 15
+
+Bronte, Charlotte, 52
+
+Brooks, Shirley, 15
+
+Browning, Robert, 54
+
+Brunswick Gardens, 69
+
+Bullingham House, 67, 68
+
+Burghley, Lord, 10
+
+Burleigh, John, _see also_ Burghley, 34
+
+Burlington, Earl of, 73
+
+Burne-Jones, Sir E., 50
+
+
+Camelford, Lord, 84
+
+Campden House, 3, 71
+
+Campden, Viscount, 72
+
+Canning, George, 32
+
+Caroline, Queen, 32
+
+Caroline the Illustrious, 57, 58
+
+Chardin, Sir Charles, 77
+
+Chester, Bishop of, 35
+
+Church Street, 67, 69
+
+Churches:
+  All Saints', Ennismore Gardens, 18
+  All Saints', Notting Hill, 97
+  Carmelite, 67
+  Christ, 95
+  Holy Trinity, Brompton, 16
+  Holy Trinity, Kensington Gore, 28
+  Horbury Chapel, 98
+  New Jerusalem, 70
+  Our Lady of Seven Dolours, 34
+  Our Lady of the Holy Souls, 94
+  Pro-Cathedral, The, 40
+  St. Andrew and St. Philip, 95
+  St. Augustine's, 28
+  St. Barnabas, 85
+  St. Clement's, 91
+  St. Cuthbert's, 38
+  St. Gabriel's, 87
+  St. George's, 75
+  St. Helen's, 91
+  St. James's, 87
+  St. John's, 89
+  St. John the Baptist, 85
+  St. Jude's, 38
+  St. Mark's, 90
+  St. Mary Abbots, 43
+  St. Mary's, 33
+  St. Mathias', 38
+  St. Michael and All Angels', 96
+  St. Paul's, Onslow Square, 29
+  St. Paul's, Vicarage Gate, 69
+  St. Peter's, 98
+  St. Stephen's, Earl's Court, 38
+  St. Stephen's, Gloucester Road, 38
+  Talbot Tabernacle, 97
+
+Clarence, Duke of, 62
+
+Clarkson, 26
+
+Cobbett, William, 43
+
+Colby, Sir T., 53
+
+Cole, Vicat, 74
+
+Coleherne Court, 37
+
+Coleridge, 39
+
+Colman, George, 15
+
+Consumption Hospital, 30
+
+Convent of the Assumption, 49
+
+Convent of the Poor Clares, 97
+
+Cope, Sir Walter, 8, 9, 10, 71, 76
+
+Cornwallis, Sir W., 10
+
+Crabbe, 32
+
+Cranley Gardens, 31
+
+Croker, Crofton, 15
+
+Cromwell, 84, 99
+
+Cromwell Gardens, 21
+
+Cromwell, Henry, 20, 45
+
+Cromwell House, 19, 20
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 20
+
+
+De Vere Gardens, 54
+
+Dickens, 16
+
+Disraeli, 26
+
+Dodington, William, 9
+
+Donaldson Museum, 28
+
+D'Orsay, Count, 26
+
+Downham, Simon, 6, 8
+
+Dukeries, The, 74
+
+
+Earl's Court, 36
+
+Earl's Court Exhibition, 37
+
+Earl's Court Manor, 10
+
+Edwardes Square, 38
+
+Elliot, Lady, 12
+
+Elphinstone, Dr., 53
+
+Ely, Bishop of, 49
+
+Ennismore Gardens, 16
+
+Essex, William, 8
+
+Evelyn, 19
+
+Exhibition, Great, 20
+
+
+Fairfax, General, 76
+
+Finch, Sir Heneage, 55
+
+Florida Tea-Gardens, 32
+
+Flounder's Field, 16
+
+Fowell Street, 90
+
+Fox and Bull, 13
+
+Fox, C. J., 14, 78
+
+Fox, Henry, 78
+
+Fox, Sir Stephen, 78
+
+Franciscan Convent, 96
+
+Free Library, 42
+
+French Embassy, 12
+
+
+Gainsborough, Earl of, 72
+
+George I., 57
+
+Gloucester, Bishop of, 35
+
+Gloucester, Duchess of, 32
+
+Gloucester, Duke of, 72
+
+Gloucester Lodge, 32
+
+Gloucester Road, 31
+
+Gloucester Walk, 74
+
+Gordon, General, 38
+
+Gore House, 26
+
+Gravel Pits, 4, 70
+
+Great Exhibition, 66
+
+Green, J. R., 49
+
+Grenvilles, The, 8
+
+Guizot, 29
+
+
+Hale House, _see_ Cromwell House
+
+Half-way House, 14
+
+Harrington, Earl of, 21
+
+Herrington Road, 28
+
+Hereford House, 38
+
+Hervey, Hon. A. J., 17
+
+Hicks, Sir Baptist, 71
+
+High Street, Kensington, 42, 48
+
+Hippodrome, The, 89
+
+Holland House, 76-84
+
+Holland Lane, 75
+
+Holland Park, 75
+
+Holly Lodge, 74
+
+Home for Crippled Boys, 41
+
+Hood, Tom, 16
+
+Horseman, Robert, 8
+
+Horticultural Gardens, 24
+
+Horticultural Society, 20
+
+Hudson, Mr., 13
+
+Hunt, Leigh, 28, 39
+
+Hunter, John, 37
+
+Hyde, Manor of, 12
+
+
+Ifield Road, 35
+
+Ilchester, Earl of, 78
+
+Imperial Institute, 22
+
+Inchbald, Mrs., 39, 45, 53
+
+
+Jerdan, W., 16
+
+Jerrold, Douglas, 16
+
+Jockey Club, 14
+
+
+Kensal Green Cemetery, 93
+
+Kensington Court, 53
+
+Kensington Gardens, 3, 54
+
+Kensington Gore, 27
+
+Kensington Grammar School, 49
+
+Kensington House, 53
+
+Kensington Manor, 7, 10
+
+Kensington Palace, 3, 54
+
+Kensington Palace Gardens, 70
+
+Kensington Square, 3, 48
+
+Kent, Duke of, 62
+
+Kent House, 14
+
+Kingston, Duchess of, 16
+
+Kingston House, 16
+
+Knightsbridge, 10, 11
+
+Knightsbridge Green, 13
+
+Knotting Barns, _see_ Notting Barns
+
+
+Ladbroke Grove, 90
+
+Lambert, General, 76
+
+Lancaster Lodge, 73
+
+Landor, 27
+
+Latimer, Lord, 10
+
+Liston, John, 15
+
+Little Campden House, 73
+
+Little Chelsea, 33, 35
+
+Little Holland House, 85
+
+Locke, 35
+
+London University, 22
+
+Lowther Lodge, 27
+
+Lytton, Bulwer, 26
+
+
+Macaulay, Lord, 74
+
+Macaulay, Zachary, 26
+
+Maids of Honour, 59
+
+Mall, The, 70
+
+Marochetti, 29
+
+Mary Place, 91
+
+Mary, Queen, 56
+
+Matthews, Charles, 27, 29
+
+Mazarin, Duchess of, 50
+
+Melbury Road, 85
+
+Michael's Grove, 15
+
+Mill, James, 69
+
+Mill, J. S., 49
+
+Millais, Sir J. E., 28
+
+Morland, George, 13
+
+Murchison, Sir R., 35
+
+
+Napoleon, Prince Louis, 27
+
+Natural History Museum, 21
+
+Newton, Sir Isaac, 4, 42, 67
+
+Neyt, Manor of, 11
+
+Noel, Lord, 72
+
+Notting Barns, 7, 9, 10
+
+Notting Hill, 3
+
+
+Observatory Gardens, 74
+
+Onslow Square, 29
+
+Oratory, The, 18
+
+Ovington Square, 16
+
+Oxford, Bishop of, 49
+
+Oxford, Earls of, 6
+
+
+Palace Gate, 54
+
+Pater, Walter, 39
+
+Paulet, Sir William, 10
+
+Pelham Crescent, 29
+
+Penn, William, 77
+
+Phillimore Terrace, 40
+
+Pitt, Stephen, 73
+
+Pitt Street, 69
+
+Portobello Road, 95
+
+Portsmouth, Duchess of, 53
+
+Pottery Lane, 87
+
+Princes Skating Club, 14
+
+Priory Grove, 33
+
+
+Queen's Gate, 28
+
+
+Redcliffe Gardens, 35
+
+Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 13
+
+Rich, Sir Henry, 10, 76
+
+Richmond, Countess of, 9
+
+Romilly, Sir S., 26
+
+Royal College of Music, 28
+
+Royal College of Science, 22
+
+Royal Crescent, 86
+
+Rutland Gate, 14
+
+
+St. Charles's College, 92
+
+St. Charles's Square, 92
+
+St. George's Union, 34
+
+St. Joseph's Home, 96
+
+Scarsdale House, 41
+
+Schools, Free, 42
+
+Serpentine, The, 58
+
+Shaftesbury, Earl of, 35
+
+Sheffield House, 74
+
+Sheffield Terrace, 74
+
+Sheridan, 41
+
+Shower, Sir Bartholomew, 35
+
+Sophia, Princess, 64
+
+South Kensington Museum, 19, 22
+
+South, Sir James, 74
+
+Stair, Lord, 17
+
+State-rooms, 61
+
+Strathnairn, Statue of, 13
+
+
+Talleyrand, 49
+
+Tattersall, 14
+
+Technical Institute, City and Guilds, 28
+
+Thackeray, 3, 29, 50
+
+Thistle Grove Lane, 33
+
+Town Hall, The, 42
+
+
+Uxbridge Road, 86
+
+
+Vere, Aubrey de, 5
+
+Vestris, Madame, 27
+
+Vicarage Gate, 69
+
+Victoria and Albert Museum, _see_ South Kensington
+
+Victoria, Queen, 62, 63
+
+Victoria Road, 38
+
+
+Walwyn, William, 7
+
+Ward, Sir E., 35
+
+Warren, Sir G., 17
+
+Warwick, Countess of, 77
+
+Warwick, First Earl of, 10
+
+Watts, G. F., 51, 79
+
+Wellesley, Marquess, 17
+
+West Town, 8, 10
+
+Wilberforce, W., 25
+
+Wilkes, John, 27
+
+Wilkie, Sir D., 40
+
+William III., 55
+
+Winchester, Marquis of, 8
+
+Woolsthorpe House, 42
+
+Wright's Lane, 41
+
+
+Yates, Frederick, 15
+
+York, Frederick, Duke of, 62
+
+Young Street, 3
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: KENSINGTON DISTRICT--NORTH HALF.
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Kensington District, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE KENSINGTON DISTRICT ***
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