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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Westminster, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton and A. Murray Smith
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Westminster
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Sir Walter Besant
+        Geraldine Edith Mitton
+        A. Murray Smith
+
+Release Date: May 31, 2007 [EBook #21648]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTMINSTER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE FASCINATION
+   OF LONDON
+
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+
+
+
+_IN THIS SERIES._
+
+Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+THE STRAND DISTRICT.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+HAMPSTEAD.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+CHELSEA.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WHITEHALL IN 1775.]
+
+
+
+
+The Fascination of London
+
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+
+BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+AND
+G. E. MITTON
+
+
+WITH A CHAPTER ON THE ABBEY BY MRS. A. MURRAY SMITH
+
+
+LONDON
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+1902
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.
+
+As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."
+
+He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace,
+but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He
+died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes
+on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of
+the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city
+practically unique, and exceptionally interesting, compiled by one who
+had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to
+make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir
+Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting,"
+will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken
+the publication of the Survey.
+
+Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and
+systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the
+history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very
+original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the
+keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its
+issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is
+proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and
+publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local
+inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and
+the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose
+Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for
+publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date.
+
+The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history
+with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.
+
+G. E. M.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+PREFATORY NOTE                                                         v
+
+PART I
+SOUTH OF VICTORIA STREET                                               1
+
+PART II
+NORTH OF VICTORIA STREET                                              24
+
+PART III
+THE HEART OF WESTMINSTER                                              40
+
+INDEX                                                                 93
+
+_Map at end of Volume._
+
+
+
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+SOUTH OF VICTORIA STREET.
+
+
+The word Westminster used in the title does not mean that city which has
+its boundaries stretching from Oxford Street to the river, from the
+Broad Walk, Kensington Gardens, to Temple Bar. A city which embraces the
+parishes of St. George's, Hanover Square; St. James's, Piccadilly; St.
+Anne's, Soho; St. Paul's, Covent Garden; St. Clement Danes; St. Mary le
+Strand, etc.; and which claims to be older even than London, dating its
+first charter from the reign of King Edgar. But, rather, Westminster in
+its colloquial sense, that part of the city which lies within the
+parishes of St. Margaret and St. John. When anyone says, 'I am going to
+Westminster,' or, 'I am staying in Westminster,' it is this district
+that he means to indicate.
+
+The parishes of St. Margaret and St. John include the land bounded on
+one side by the river; on another by a line running through the Horse
+Guards and diagonally across St. James's Park to Buckingham Gate; and on
+the third by an irregular line which crosses Victoria Street to the west
+of Carlisle Place, and subsequently cuts across the Vauxhall Bridge Road
+near Francis Street, and, continuing at a slight angle to the course of
+the Bridge Road, strikes the river at a spot beyond the gasworks between
+Pulford Terrace and Bessborough Place. There is also another piece of
+land belonging to St. Margaret's parish; this lies detached, and
+includes part of Kensington Gardens and the Round Pond; but it is only
+mentioned to show it has not been overlooked, for the present account
+will not deal with it. The triangular space roughly indicated above is
+sufficient for one ramble.
+
+Within this space stand, and have stood, so many magnificent buildings
+closely connected with the annals of England that Westminster may well
+claim to occupy a unique place in the history of the nation. The effects
+of two such buildings as the Abbey and Palace upon its population were
+striking and unique.
+
+The right of sanctuary possessed by the Abbey drew thieves, villains,
+and rogues of all kinds to its precincts. The Court drew to the Palace a
+crowd of hangers-on, attendants, artificers, work-people, etc. When the
+Court was migratory this great horde swept over Westminster at
+intervals like a wave, and made a floating population. In the days of
+"touching" for "King's evil," when the Court was held at Whitehall, vast
+crowds of diseased persons gathered to Westminster to be touched. In
+Charles II.'s time weekly sittings were appointed at which the number of
+applicants was not to exceed 200. Between 1660-64, 23,601 persons were
+"touched." Later, when the roads were still too bad to be traversed
+without danger, many of the members of Parliament lodged in Westminster
+while the House was sitting. Therefore, from the earliest date, when
+bands of travellers and merchants came down the great north road, and
+passed through the marshes of Westminster to the ferry, until the
+beginning of the present century, there has always been a floating
+element mingling with the stationary inhabitants of the parishes.
+
+The history of Westminster itself is entwined with these two great
+foundations, the Abbey and the Palace, which will be found described in
+detail respectively at pp. 45 and 71.
+
+
+DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT.
+
+The perambulation of Westminster, undertaken street by street, differs
+from that made at Chelsea or elsewhere by reason of the great buildings
+aforementioned, which are centres of interest and require particular
+notice. These will be dealt with as they occur, and so interesting are
+they that they cause the street associations to sink into a position of
+secondary importance.
+
+Beginning at the least interesting end of Westminster--that is to say,
+the west end of Victoria Street--there are not many objects of interest
+apparent. Victoria Street was in 1852 cut through nests of alleys and
+dirty courts, including a colony of almshouses, cottages, chapel, and
+school, known as Palmer's Village. The solid uniform buildings on either
+side of the street have a very sombre aspect; they are mainly used for
+offices. There is still some waste ground lying to the south of Victoria
+Street, in spite of the great Roman Catholic Cathedral, begun in 1895,
+which covers a vast area. The material is red brick with facings of
+stone, and the style Byzantine, the model set being the "early Christian
+basilica in its plenitude." The high campanile tower, which is already
+seen all over London, is a striking feature in a building quite
+dissimilar from those to which we in England are accustomed. The great
+entrance at the west end has an arch of forty feet span, and encloses
+three doorways, of which the central one is only to be used on solemn
+occasions by the Archbishop. One feature of the interior decoration will
+be the mosaic pictures in the marble panels. The building is still
+incomplete, and not open to the public. It stands on the site of Tothill
+Fields Prison, which was considered to be one of the finest specimens of
+brickwork in the country, and cost the nation £200,000, but has now
+completely vanished. It resembled a fortress; the entrance, which stood
+in Francis Street, was composed of massive granite blocks, and had a
+portcullis. The prison took the place of a Bridewell or House of
+Correction near, built in 1622; but in spite of the vast sum of money
+spent upon it, it lasted only twenty years (1834-54).
+
+The fire-station and Western District Post-Office also occupy part of
+the same site. The extension of the Army and Navy Stores stands on the
+site of the Greencoat School, demolished in 1877. Certain gentlemen
+founded this school; in Charles I.'s reign it was constituted "a body
+politic and corporate," and the seal bears date 1636. The lads wore a
+long green skirt, bound round with a red girdle. In 1874, when the
+United Westminster Schools were formed from the amalgamation of the
+various school charities of Westminster, the work was begun here, but
+three years later the boys were removed to the new buildings in Palace
+Street. The old school buildings were very picturesque. They stood round
+a quadrangle, and the Master's house faced the entrance, and was
+decorated with a bust of King Charles and the royal arms. In the
+wainscoted board-room hung portraits of King Charles I. by Vandyck, and
+King Charles II. by Lely.
+
+The name of Artillery Row is connected with the artillery practice at
+the butts, which stood near here in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. At the
+end, if we turn to the left, we come into Old Rochester Row, and so to
+Greycoat Place, in which stands the Greycoat Hospital. This building,
+one of the few old ones left in the parish, has a red-tiled roof and
+dormer windows, projecting eaves and heavy window-frames. Two wings
+enclose a courtyard, which is below the level of the road. Above the
+central porch, in niches, are the figures of a boy and girl in the
+old-fashioned Greycoat garb. In the centre are the Royal arms of Queen
+Anne, and a turret with clock and vane surmounts the roof.
+
+This hospital was founded in 1698 for the education of seventy poor boys
+and forty poor girls. In 1706, by letters patent of Queen Anne, the
+trustees were constituted a body 'politic and corporate.' In this year
+also the school was established in the present quaint building, which
+had been a workhouse, perhaps that referred to in the vestry reports of
+1664 as the "new workhouse in Tuttle ffields."
+
+The boys then wore a long gray skirt and girdle, something similar to
+the Christ's Hospital uniform, and the girls a dress of gray. The
+hospital originated in the charity of the parishioners. Various
+additions have since been made to the building, and class-rooms have
+been added. The older class-rooms and board-room are wainscoted. In the
+latter are oil-paintings of Queen Anne, Bishops Compton and Smalridge
+(of Bristol), and various governors. The corporate seal represents two
+male figures tending a young sapling, a reference to 1 Cor. vii. 8. An
+old organ, contemporary with the date of the establishment, and a
+massive Bible and Prayer-Book, are among the most interesting relics.
+The latter, dated 1706, contains the "Prayer for the Healing" at the
+King's touch.
+
+The hospital is a very wealthy foundation, and is able to support the
+strain of its immense expenses without difficulty. The governors have
+recently erected a row of red-brick flats to the west of the garden,
+which will further augment the income. The garden is charming with
+flower-beds and grass plots, while the vine and the ampelopsis climb
+over the old building.
+
+Rochester Row owes its name to the connection of the See of Rochester
+with the Deanery of Westminster, which continued through nine successive
+incumbencies. The row was considered by the Dean and Chapter as a
+private thoroughfare until the beginning of the present century, but
+they had no reason to be proud of it. A filthy ditch caused much
+complaint; even in 1837 the state of the row was described as "shameful
+and dangerous." At the north-east end stood the parish pound-house. St.
+Stephen's Church and Schools are handsome, in a decorated Gothic style,
+and were built in 1847 by Ferrey, at the cost of the Baroness
+Burdett-Coutts. The spire rises to a height of 200 feet.
+
+Immediately opposite, two neat rows of almshouses, in red brick, face
+one another; on the exterior wall of each wing is the half-length effigy
+of a man in a niche. Beneath that on the northern wing is the
+inscription: "Mr. Emery Hill, late of the parish of St. Margaret's,
+Westminster, founded these almshouses Anno Domini 1708. Christian
+Reader, in Hopes of thy Assistance." On each side similar inscriptions
+commemorate donations.
+
+On the southern wing the slab beneath the figure bears the words: "Rev.
+James Palmer founded almshouses in Palmer's Passage for six poor old men
+and six poor old women Anno Domini 1856; re-erected here, 1881"; and a
+further record: "Mr. Nicholas Butler founded the almshouses in Little
+Chapel Street, near Palmer's Passage, for two of the most ancient
+couples of the best repute, Anno Domini 1675; re-erected here 1881."
+These are the Westminster United Almshouses. They were consolidated by
+an order of the Charity Commission, dated July 11, 1879. The Grenadier
+Guards Hospital is further down the row on the same side.
+
+Vincent Square is the Westminster School playground. This space, of
+about ten acres of land, has been the subject of much dispute between
+the Dean and Chapter and the parish. It was first marked out as a
+playground in 1810, but not enclosed by railings until 1842. Dr.
+Vincent, Headmaster of the school and formerly Dean of Westminster, took
+the lead in the matter, and the enclosure is therefore named after him.
+The ground is now levelled, and forms magnificent playing-fields; from
+the south end there is a fine view of many-towered Westminster. The
+hospital of the Coldstream Guards is in one corner of the Square, and
+next to it the Westminster Police Court. St. Mary's Church and Schools
+are on the south side. The Grosvenor Hospital for Women and Children is
+in Douglas Street close by. This originated in a dispensary in 1865.
+
+The ground in the parish already traversed corresponds roughly with that
+occupied by the once well-known Tothill Fields. Older writers call this
+indifferently Tuthill, Totehill, Tootehill, but more generally Tuttle.
+In Timbs' "London and Westminster" we read: "The name of Tot is the old
+British word Tent (the German Tulsio), god of wayfarers and
+merchants.... Sacred stones were set up on heights, hence called
+Tothills." If ever there were a hill at Tothill Fields, it must have
+been a very slight one, and in this case it may have been carted away to
+raise the level elsewhere. We know that St. John's burial-ground was
+twice covered with three feet of soil, and in the parish accounts we
+read of gravel being carted from Tothill. The greater part of the ground
+in any case can have been only low-lying, for large marshy pools
+remained until comparatively recent times, one of which was known as the
+Scholars' Pond. Dean Stanley has aptly termed these fields the
+Smithfield of West London. Here everything took place which required an
+open space--combats, tournaments, and fairs.
+
+In a map of the middle of the eighteenth century we see a few scattered
+houses lying to the south of Horseferry Road just below the bend, and
+Rochester Row stretching like an arm out into the open ground. Two of
+the great marshy pools are also marked. If all accounts are to be
+believed, this spot was noted for its fertility and the beauty of its
+wild-flowers. From Strype's Survey we learn that the fields supplied
+London and Westminster with "asparagus, artichokes, cauliflowers and
+musk melons." The author of "Parochial Memorials" says that the names of
+Orchard Street, Pear Street and Vine Street are reminiscent of the
+cultivation of fruit in Westminster, but these names more probably have
+reference to the Abbot's garden. Walcott says that Tothill Fields,
+before the Statute of Restraints, was considered to be within the limits
+of the sanctuary of the Abbey. Stow gives a long and minute account of a
+trial by battle held here. One of the earliest recorded tournaments held
+in these fields was at the coronation of Queen Eleanor in 1226.
+
+A great fair held in the fields in 1248 was a failure. All the shops and
+places of merchandise were shut during the fifteen days that it lasted,
+by the King's command, but the wind and rain ruined the project.
+
+In 1256 John Mansell, the King's Counsellor and a priest, entertained
+the Kings and Queens of England and Scotland and so many Dukes, Lords,
+and Barons, at Westminster that he had not room for them in his own
+house, but set up tents and pavilions in Tothill.
+
+In 1441 "was the fighting at the Tothill between two thefes, a pelour
+and a defendant; the pelour hadde the field, and victory of the
+defendour withinne three strokes."
+
+Both the armies of the Royalists and the Commonwealth were at different
+times paraded in these fields; of the latter, 14,000 men were here at
+one time. During 1851-52 Scottish prisoners were brought to Tothill, and
+many died there, as the churchwardens' accounts show. In the latter
+year we read the entry: "Paid to Thomas Wright for 67 load of soyle laid
+on the graves in Tuthill Fields wherein 1,200 Scotch prisoners (taken at
+the fight at Worcester) were buried."
+
+It was fifteen years later, in the time of the Great Plague, that the
+pesthouses came into full use, for we read in the parish records July
+14, 1665, "that the Churchwardens doe forthwith proceed to the making of
+an additional Provision for the reception of the Poore visited of the
+Plague, at the Pesthouse in Tuttle ffieldes." The first two cases of
+this terrible visitation occurred in Westminster, and during the
+sorrowful months that followed, in place of feasting and pageantry, the
+fields were the theatre for scenes of horror and death. The pesthouses
+were still standing in 1832.
+
+There was formerly a "maze" in Tothill Fields, which is shown in a print
+from an engraving by Hollar taken about 1650.
+
+Vauxhall Bridge Road was cut through part of the site belonging to the
+old Millbank Penitentiary. The traffic to the famous Vauxhall Gardens on
+the other side of the river once made this a very crowded thoroughfare;
+at present it is extremely dreary. The Scots Guards Hospital is on the
+west side.
+
+Turning to the left at the end in the Grosvenor Road, we soon come to
+the Tate Gallery of British Art, the magnificent gift of Sir Henry Tate
+to the nation. Besides the building, the founder gave sixty-five
+pictures to form the nucleus of a collection. This is said to be the
+first picture-gallery erected in England complete in itself; the
+architect is Sydney Smith, F.R.I.B.A., and the style adopted is a Free
+Classic, Roman with Greek feeling in the mouldings and decorations.
+There is a fine portico of six Corinthian columns terminating in a
+pediment, with the figure of Britannia at the central apex, and the lion
+and unicorn at each end. The basement, of rusticated stone, ten feet
+high, runs round the principal elevation. A broad flight of steps leads
+to the central entrance. The front elevation is about 290 feet in
+length. The vestibule immediately within the principal door leads into
+an octagonal sculpture hall, top-lighted by a glass dome. There are
+besides five picture-galleries, also top-lighted. The pictures, which
+include the work of the most famous British artists, are nearly all
+labelled with the titles and artists' names, so a catalogue is
+superfluous. The collection includes the pictures purchased by the
+Chantrey Bequest, also a gift from G. F. Watts, R.A., of twenty-three of
+his own works. The gallery is open from ten to six, and on Sundays in
+summer after two o'clock. Thursdays and Fridays are students' days.
+
+The gallery stands on the site of the old Millbank Penitentiary, for the
+scheme of which Howard the reformer was originally responsible. He was
+annoyed by the rejection of the site he advocated, however, and
+afterwards withdrew from the project altogether. Wandsworth Fields and
+Battersea Rise were both discussed as possible sites, but were
+eventually abandoned in favour of Millbank. Jeremy Bentham, who
+advocated new methods in the treatment of prisoners, gained a contract
+from the Government for the erection and management of the new prison.
+He, however, greatly exceeded the terms of his contract, and finally
+withdrew, and supervisors were appointed. The prison was a six-rayed
+building with a chapel in the centre. Each ray was pentagonal in shape,
+and had three towers on its exterior angles. The whole was surrounded by
+an octagonal wall overlooking a moat. At the closing of the prison in
+Tothill Fields it became the sole Metropolitan prison for females, "just
+as," says Major Griffiths, "it was the sole reformatory for promising
+criminals, the first receptacle for military prisoners, the great depot
+for convicts _en route_ for the antipodes."
+
+In 1843 it was called a penitentiary instead of a prison. Gradually, as
+new methods of prison architecture were evolved, Millbank was recognised
+as cumbersome and inadequate. It was doomed for many years before its
+demolition, and now, like the prison of Tothill Fields, has vanished.
+Even the convicts' burial-ground at the back of the Tate Gallery is
+nearly covered with County Council industrial dwellings.
+
+Further northward in the Grosvenor Road, Peterborough House once stood,
+facing the river, and this was at one time called "the last house in
+Westminster." It was built by the first Earl of Peterborough, and
+retained his name until 1735, when it passed to Alexander Davis of
+Ebury, whose only daughter and heiress had married Sir Thomas Grosvenor.
+It was by this marriage that the great London property came into the
+possession of the Grosvenor (Westminster) family. The house was rebuilt,
+and renamed Grosvenor House. Strype says: "The Earl of Peterborough's
+house with a large courtyard before it, and a fine garden behind, but
+its situation is but bleak in winter and not over healthful, as being
+too near the low meadows on the south and west parts." The house was
+finally demolished in 1809.
+
+Beyond, in the direction of the Houses of Parliament, there are several
+interesting old houses, of which the best specimens are Nos. 8 and 9,
+offices of the London Road Car Company, and No. 10. In the first a
+well-furnished ceiling proclaims an ancient drawing-room; in the second
+panelled walls and a spiral staircase set off a fine hall. This house
+has a beautiful doorway of the old scallop-shell pattern, with cherubs'
+heads and ornamental brackets decorating it. In the third house a
+ceiling is handsomely finished with dental mouldings, and the edges of
+the panels are all carved. A mantelpiece of white marble is very fine,
+and of great height and solidity, with a female face as the keystone.
+
+From Lambeth Bridge the Horseferry Road leads westward. This was the
+main track to the ferry in ancient days, and as the ferry was the only
+one on the Thames at London, it was consequently of great importance. It
+was here that James II. crossed after escaping from Whitehall by night,
+and from his boat he threw the Great Seal into the river. Horseferry
+Road is strictly utilitarian, and not beautiful; it passes by gasworks,
+a Roman Catholic church, Wesleyan chapel, Normal Institute and Training
+College, all of the present century. North of it Grosvenor Road becomes
+Millbank Street. The Abbot's watermill stood at the end of College
+Street (further north), and was turned by the stream which still flows
+beneath the roadway. In an old survey a mill is marked on this spot, and
+is supposed to have been built by the same Abbot Litlington who built
+the wall in College Street (1362-1386). It was still standing in 1644,
+and mention is made of it at that date in the parish books. The bank was
+a long strip of raised earth, extending from here to the site of
+Peterborough House. Strype mentions "the Millbank" as a "certain parcel
+of land valued in Edward VI.'s time at 58 shillings, and given in the
+third of his reign" to one Joanna Smith for "services rendered."
+
+Church Street (left) leads into Smith Square. Here stands the Church of
+St. John the Evangelist. This was the second of Queen Anne's fifty
+churches built by imposing a duty on coals and culm brought into the
+Port of London. The new district was formed in 1723, but the
+consecration ceremony did not take place until June 20, 1728. The
+architect was Archer, a pupil of Sir John Vanbrugh's, and the style,
+which is very peculiar, has been described as Doric. The chief features
+of the church are its four angle belfries, which were not included in
+the original scheme of the architect, but were added later to insure an
+equal pressure on the foundations. Owing to these the church has been
+unkindly compared to an elephant with its four legs up in the air!
+Another story has it that Queen Anne, being troubled in mind by much
+wearisome detail, kicked over her wooden footstool, and said, "Go, build
+me a church like that"; but this sounds apocryphal, especially in view
+of the fact that the towers were a later addition. The church is
+undoubtedly cumbrous, but has the merit of originality. In 1742 it was
+gutted by fire, and was not rebuilt for some time owing to lack of
+funds. In 1773 the roof was slightly damaged by lightning, and
+subsequently repairs and alterations have taken place. The building
+seats 1,400 persons, and a canonry of Westminster Abbey is attached to
+the living.
+
+The churchwardens of St. John's possess an interesting memento in the
+form of a snuff-box, presented in 1801 by "Thomas Gayfere, Esq., Father
+of the Vestry of St. John the Evangelist." This has been handed down to
+the succeeding office-bearers, who have enriched and enlarged it by
+successive silver plates and cases.
+
+Smith Square shows, like so much of Westminster, an odd mixture of old
+brick houses, with heavily-tiled roofs, and new brick flats of great
+height. In the south-west corner stands the Rectory. Romney and Marsham
+Streets were called after Charles Marsham, Earl of Romney. Tufton Street
+was named after Sir Richard Tufton. One of the cockpits in Westminster
+was here as late as 1815, long after the more fashionable one in St.
+James's Park had vanished. The northern part of the street between Great
+Peter and Great College Streets was formerly known as Bowling Alley.
+Here the notorious Colonel Blood lived.
+
+Near the corner of Little Smith Street stands an architectural museum;
+it is not a very large building, but the frontage is rendered
+interesting by several statues and reliefs in stone. This, to give it
+its full title, is "The Royal Architectural Museum and School of Art in
+connection with the Science and Art Department." The gallery is open
+free from ten to four daily, and in the rooms opening off its corridors
+art classes for students of both sexes are held; the walls are
+absolutely covered with ancient fragments of architecture and sculpture.
+The row of houses opposite to the museum is doomed to demolition, a
+process which has begun already at the north end. The house third from
+the south end, a small grocer's shop, is the one in which the great
+composer and musician Purcell lived. He was born in Great St. Ann's Lane
+near the Almonry, and his mother, as a widow, lived in Tothill Street.
+The boy at the very early age of six was admitted to the choir of the
+Chapel Royal, and was appointed organist to Westminster Abbey when only
+two-and-twenty, a place he very nearly lost by refusing to give up to
+the Dean and Chapter the proceeds of letting the seats in the organ-loft
+to view the coronation of James II., a windfall he considered as a
+perquisite. He is buried beneath the great organ, which had so often
+throbbed out his emotions in the sounds in which he had clothed them. On
+leaving Tufton Street he went to Marsham Street, where he died in 1695.
+The art students from the gallery now patronize the little room behind
+the shop for lunch and tea, running across in paint-covered pinafore or
+blouse, making the scene veritably Bohemian.
+
+At the north end of Tufton Street is Great College Street. Here
+dignified houses face the old wall built by Abbot Litlington. They are
+not large; some are overgrown by creepers; the street seems bathed in
+the peace of a perpetual Sunday. The stream bounding Thorney Island
+flowed over this site, and its waters still run beneath the roadway. The
+street has been associated with some names of interest. Gibbon's aunt
+had here a boarding-house for Westminster boys, in which her famous
+nephew lived for some time. Mr. Thorne, antiquary, and originator of
+_Notes and Queries_, lived here. Some of Keats' letters to Fanny Brawne
+are dated from 25 Great College Street, where he came on October 16,
+1820, to lodgings, in order to conquer his great passion by absence; but
+apparently absence had only the proverbial effect. Walcott lived here,
+and his History of St. Margaret's Church and Memorials of Westminster
+are dated from here in 1847 and 1849 respectively. Little College Street
+contains a few small, irregular houses brightened by window-boxes. A
+slab informs us that the date of Barton Street was 1722, but the row of
+quiet, flat-casemented houses looks older than that. At the west end of
+Great College Street stood the King's slaughter-house for supplying meat
+to the palace; the foundations of this were extant in 1807. The end of
+Great College Street opens out opposite the smooth lawns of the Victoria
+Public Garden, near the House of Lords.
+
+In Great Smith Street there was a turnpike at the beginning of the last
+century. Sir Richard Steele and Keats both dated letters from this
+address, and Thomas Southerne, the dramatist, died here. The northern
+part of the street was known as Dean Street until 1865; the old
+workhouse of the united parish used to stand in it. The Free Library is
+in this street. Westminster was the first Metropolitan parish to adopt
+the Library Acts. The Commissioners purchased the lease of a house,
+together with furniture, books, etc., from a Literary, Scientific, and
+Mechanics' Institute which stood on the east side of the road, a little
+to the north of the present library building, and the library was opened
+there in 1857. In 1888 the present site was purchased, and the building
+was designed by J. F. Smith, F.R.I.B.A.
+
+Dean Stanley presented 2,000 volumes of standard works in 1883, to which
+others were added by his sister, Mrs. Vaughan, to whom they had been
+left for her lifetime. The library also contains 449 valuable volumes
+published by the Record Office. These consist of Calendars of State
+Papers, Reports of the Deputy Keeper of the Public Record Office,
+Chronicles and Memorials of Great Britain and Ireland during the Middle
+Ages, and Records of Great Britain from the Reign of Edward the
+Confessor to Henry VIII. The Westminster Public Baths and Wash-houses,
+designed by the same architect are next door to the library. The Church
+House opposite is a very handsome building in a Perpendicular style; it
+is of red brick with stone dressings. The interior is very well
+furnished with fine stone and wood carving. The great hall holds 1,500
+people, and runs the whole length of the building from Smith Street to
+Tufton Street. The roof is an open timber structure of the hammer-beam
+type, typical of fourteenth-century work. Near the north end of Great
+Smith Street is Queen Anne's Bounty Office, rebuilt 1900.
+
+Orchard Street is so named from the Abbot's Orchard. John Wesley once
+lived here. In Old Pye Street a few squalid houses with low doorways
+remain to contrast with the immense flats known as Peabody's Buildings,
+which have sprung up recently. In 1862 George Peabody gave £150,000 for
+the erection of dwellings for the working classes, and to this he
+subsequently added £500,000. The first block of buildings was opened in
+Spitalfields, 1864. These in the neighbourhood of Old Pye Street were
+erected in 1882. Pye Street derives its name from Sir Robert Pye, member
+for Westminster in the time of Charles I., who married a daughter of
+John Hampden. St. Matthew Street was Duck Lane until 1864, and was a
+very malodorous quarter. Swift says it was renowned for second-hand
+bookshops. The Westminster Bluecoat School was first founded here.
+
+St. Ann's Street and Lane are poor and wretched quarters. The name is
+derived from a chapel which formerly stood on the spot (see p. 37).
+Herrick lodged in the street when, ejected from his living in the
+country in 1647, he returned with anything but reluctance to his beloved
+London. He had resumed lay dress, but was restored to his living in 1662
+in reward for his devoted loyalty to the Stuarts. The great musician,
+Henry Purcell, was born in St. Ann's Lane. Seymour, writing in 1735,
+says: "Great St. Ann's Lane, a pretty, handsome, well-built and
+well-inhabited place." St. Matthew's Church and Schools were built by
+Sir G. A. Scott in 1849-57.
+
+Great Peter Street is a dirty thoroughfare with some very old houses. On
+one is a stone slab with the words, "This is Sant Peter Street, 1624. R
+[a heart] W." This and its neighbour, Little Peter Street, obviously
+derive their names from the patron saint of the Abbey. Strype describes
+Great Peter Street pithily as "very long and indifferent broad." Great
+Peter Street runs at its west end into Strutton Ground, a quaint place
+which recalls bygone days by other things than its name, which is a
+corruption of Stourton, from Stourton House. The street is thickly lined
+by costers' barrows, and on Saturday nights there is no room to pass in
+the roadway.
+
+Before examining in detail the part that may be called the core and
+centre of Westminster, that part lying around the Abbey and Houses of
+Parliament, it is advisable to begin once more at the west end of
+Victoria Street, and, traversing the part of the parish on the north
+side, gather there what we may of history and romance.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+NORTH OF VICTORIA STREET.
+
+
+The United Westminster Schools, constituted 1873, stand on the east side
+of Palace Street. These comprise Emanuel Hospital, Greencoat School (St.
+Margaret's), Palmer's (Blackcoat School), and Hill's Grammar School. The
+building in Palace Street stands back from the road behind a space of
+green grass. Over one doorway are medallions of Palmer and Hill, and
+over the other the Royal arms, and the structure is devoid of any
+architectural attractiveness. The beauty which belonged to the older
+buildings has not been revived, but replaced by a hideous
+utilitarianism. Watney's Brewery occupies the ground opposite to the
+school. The schools of St. Andrew are in this street, and beyond is the
+Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Edward. Stafford Place is
+called after Viscount Stafford, on the site of whose garden wall it is
+said to have been built. This wall formed the parish boundary, and a boy
+was annually whipped upon it to impress the bounds upon his memory.
+
+Tart Hall, built 1638, stood at the north end of James Street. It was
+the residence of Viscount Stafford, to whom it had come from his mother
+Alethea, daughter and heiress of the seventh Earl of Shrewsbury. Lord
+Stafford was the fifth son of the Earl of Arundel and Surrey, and was
+made first a Baron and then a Viscount by Charles I. He was condemned
+for high treason on the manufactured evidence of Oates and Turberville,
+in the reign of Charles II., and was beheaded on Tower Hill, December
+29, 1680. After his execution the house was turned into a museum and
+place of public entertainment. The gateway under which he passed to his
+death was never again opened after that event, but it was left standing
+until 1737. Among the notable residents in the street were Dr. White
+Kennet, Bishop of Peterborough, an indefatigable collector of MSS., and
+Glover, the poet.
+
+The present street contains many pleasant, picturesque houses,
+especially at the northern end. At the corner of Castle Lane is the
+Westminster Chapel, the largest Independent place of worship in the
+Metropolis excepting Spurgeon's Tabernacle. It seats 2,500, and has two
+galleries, one above the other, running round the whole interior. It was
+opened in 1865 to replace a smaller chapel which had previously stood on
+the same site.
+
+Emanuel Hospital was a charming old building which stood south of the
+chapel on the same side of the street. It was founded in 1594 by Lady
+Dacre "for the relief of aged people and the bringing up of children in
+virtue and good and laudable arts, whereby they might the better live in
+time to come by their honest labour." The low range of buildings running
+round a quadrangle had tall chimneys, and the central house was
+decorated by a cupola and clock. It was the sort of place that took the
+sharpness off charity by covering it with a sheath of that dignity which
+is always to be found in antiquity.
+
+By Lady Dacre's will there were to be twenty almspeople, and each of
+them was at liberty to bring up one child. It was, however, not until
+the year 1728 that a school was first established, for before that the
+funds had been insufficient.
+
+In 1890 thirteen of the almshouses stood empty from failure of income,
+and subsequently it was resolved to demolish the almshouses and offer
+the present valuable site for building purposes. It is not the
+intention of the trustees to erect new almshouses. The charity will in
+future be entirely in money pensions known as Lady Dacre's pensions.
+
+Caxton Street was originally called Chapel Street, but was renamed in
+honour of the great printer, who lived for some years at a house in the
+Almonry, now replaced by the Westminster Palace Hotel (see p. 34).
+
+On the south side of the street is a curious little square brick
+building with the figure of a Bluecoat boy over the porch, and the
+inscription on a slab, "The Blue Coat School, built in the year 1709."
+On the back is a large painting of a similar boy and the date of
+foundation: "This School founded 1688." A small garden stretches out
+behind. The building itself contains simply one hall or classroom, which
+is decorated by an ornamental dental cornice, and has a curious inner
+portico with fluted columns over the doorway. It is supposed to have
+been built by the great Sir Christopher. The Master's house, covered
+with Virginia creeper, stands on one side of the main building.
+
+The school was first established in Duck Lane, and was instituted by
+Thomas Jekyll, D.D., one of the chaplains of the Broadway Chapel. It is
+said to have been the first school in the Metropolis supported by
+voluntary contributions. It was at first for boys only, but in 1713
+twenty girls were included in the scheme, but these were afterwards
+dispersed and only the boys retained. Westminster was exceptionally rich
+in these foundations of the charitable, both for the young and for the
+old.
+
+Further eastward, on the north side of Caxton Street, is the Medical
+School in connection with Westminster Hospital. The Town Hall stands
+close by. The foundation-stone was laid by the Baroness Burdett-Coutts.
+In the muniment-room there are preserved 3,400 records, etc., of
+exceptional interest. Here, also, are the St. Ermin's Mansions and
+Hotel, which derive their name from St. Ermin's Hill, evidently a
+corruption of Hermit's Hill, under which name the place is marked in
+some old maps.
+
+Christ Church is of considerable size. It is of the last century (1843),
+and its stumpy tower, which is incomplete, gives it an odd appearance.
+The church is on the site of the Broadway Chapel, founded by Darrell, a
+Prebendary of the Abbey, who in 1631 left £400 for its erection. Various
+subscriptions were added to this sum, including one of £100 from
+Archbishop Laud. The churchyard had been consecrated in 1626. The chapel
+was opened 1642, and saw many vicissitudes of fortune. During the Civil
+War it was used as a stable for the soldiers' horses, and at other
+times as a council-room and a prison. In the churchyard Sir William
+Waller, the Parliamentary General, is buried.
+
+York Street was named after Frederick, Duke of York, son of George II.,
+who resided here temporarily. Previously it had been called Petty
+France, from the number of French refugees and merchants who inhabited
+it. Milton lived in No. 19, now destroyed. The house belonged to Jeremy
+Bentham, and was afterwards occupied by Hazlitt, who caused a tablet
+bearing the words "Sacred to Milton, Prince of Poets," to be placed on
+the outside wall in memory of his famous predecessor.
+
+Milton came here in 1651, when turned out of chambers in Scotland Yard
+which had been allowed him as Latin Secretary to the Council. He still
+retained the office. He had lost the sight of one eye, and two years
+later was totally blind. He was obliged to have an assistant-secretary,
+a post occupied for some time by Andrew Marvell. His daughter Deborah
+was born here, and his wife died soon after. In Palmer's Passage,
+Palmer's Almshouses were first established, and in Little Chapel Street,
+Mr. Nicholas Butler's. Mr. Cornelius Vandon's (Van Dun) were in Petty
+France. "Cornelius Vandon was born at Breda in Brabant, Yeoman of the
+Guard and Usher to their Majesties Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen
+Marie and Queen Elizabeth. He did give eight almshouses in Pettie France
+next to the end of James Street for the use of eight poor Women of the
+Parish. He did also give eight other Almshouses near St. Ermin's Hill by
+Tuttle side for the use of eight poor widows of this Parish." These
+eight women were intended to act as charity nurses, and to nurse any who
+were sick in the parish.
+
+In 1850 the almshouses and ground were sold, and the proceeds devoted to
+Vandon's Charity Account. Part of the funds was used to purchase a plot
+of ground in Lambeth, where new almshouses were erected, and after the
+death of the recipients of the charity these were let to tenants, and
+the proceeds devoted to supplying nurses for the poor.
+
+The towering blocks of Queen Anne's Mansions, the highest flats in
+London, rear themselves at the east end of York Street. These are partly
+on the site of a house occupied for very many years by Jeremy Bentham
+(see p. 32).
+
+The Guards Barracks, known as the Wellington Barracks, face Birdcage
+Walk. They were opened in March, 1834, and enlarged in 1859. The long
+line of yellow-washed building differs little from the usually-accepted
+barrack model.
+
+At the east end of the barrack yard stands the chapel, with an
+extraordinarily massive portico. It was built in 1839-40 on the model of
+a Grecian temple. The building is well proportioned, but the interior
+was not at first thought worthy of the exterior. Accordingly, in 1877
+the chapel was closed, and a sum of money arising from the sale of the
+Guards' Institute was devoted to the purpose of a complete internal
+reconstruction. The work was put into the hands of Sir G. E. Street,
+R.A., who carried it out in the Lombardian style, with an apse at the
+eastern end, and over the apse a semi-dome.
+
+Within, every spare foot of wall-space is utilized, and, besides being a
+perfect storehouse of memorials of departed Guardsmen, the chapel is
+full of rich but unobtrusive decoration. The sweep of the high pillars
+and arches of light stone relieves the richness of the mural
+ornamentation. The side-walls of the nave are covered by an arcade
+enclosing panels of marble mosaic. The heads of the arches are filled in
+by terra-cotta groups in high relief, representing Biblical subjects.
+Between and below the panels are tablets to the memory of those who have
+served in the Guards.
+
+Between the windows are other tablets, of which the most interesting is
+that inscribed: "Soldier, Sportsman, Author, George Whyte Melville's
+memory is here recorded by his old friends and comrades, the Coldstream
+Guards." The chancel screen and pulpit are of white Sicilian marble,
+with handsome panels and a base of Belgian black. In the spandril of the
+arch on the south side of the chancel is a marble medallion of the Duke
+of Wellington, presented by his son, and in the corresponding position
+on the north side one of the Duke of Marlborough, presented by the Earl
+of Cadogan. The stalls are of stained oak. The altar is of oak, with
+walnut panels and ebony shafts. The reredos is lined by beautiful glass
+mosaics, and the semi-dome is mosaic work to match. This sounds a mere
+catalogue, but it is quite impossible to give any idea of this
+singularly richly-decorated chapel without descending to detail. The
+tattered colours used at the Crimea and Waterloo hang from their staves
+on the pillars. Anyone is admitted to parade service on Sunday mornings
+by ticket, to be procured beforehand by writing to the chaplain.
+
+Queen Anne's Gate was formerly Queen Square. At a corner stands a statue
+of Queen Anne without date. Many of the houses show quaintly carved
+porches with wooden brackets and pendants, and are obviously of the date
+which the name implies. Jeremy Bentham lived in Queen Square Place, now
+covered by part of Queen Anne's Mansions, for fifty years of his life,
+and here he died in 1832. His skeleton, clothed as in life, is now
+possessed by University College, London. His house was called The
+Hermitage. His friend and disciple, James Mill, came to be his tenant in
+1814, in what was then 1 Queen's Square, now 40 Queen Anne's Gate. Here
+he completed his great History of India, published in 1818.
+
+After Mill, Sir John Bowring, first editor of the _Westminster Review_,
+established by Bentham, occupied the house now numbered 40. Peg
+Woffington also lived in Queen Square, which was a fashionable place of
+residence in the last century, a reputation it still retains. Both Great
+and Little Queen Streets partake of the old-world look of the
+seventeenth century, and show quaint keystones and carving of various
+designs over the doorways.
+
+The Broadway formerly included the part now occupied by Great Chapel
+Street, and reached to Strutton Ground. In James I.'s reign a license
+was granted for a haymarket to be held here, which license was renewed
+from time to time. Dick Turpin, the highwayman, is said to have lived in
+one of the small courts off the Broadway, and to have issued from thence
+on his marauding expeditions. Perhaps this was Black Horse Yard, which
+name still appears. There is on every side evidence of that mingling of
+poverty and riches which has been in all ages so characteristic of
+Westminster, a parish which contains at the same time splendid
+Government buildings and squalid slums, one of the most magnificent
+cathedrals in the world and some of the foulest courts.
+
+In Newcourt's map of 1658 Tothill Street is completely built, while
+there are very few streets to the south of the present Victoria Street.
+Walcott says of this street that it "was inhabited by noblemen and the
+flower of the gentry in Westminster." In Elizabeth's time the houses had
+large gardens attached. Edmund Burke lived in Tothill Street, also
+Thomas Southerne, the dramatist, who was a constant attendant at the
+Abbey; and Thomas Betterton was born here about 1635. His father was an
+under-cook in the service of Charles I. Betterton wrote a number of
+plays, but is best remembered as an actor.
+
+The Aquarium, 600 feet in length, stands on the site of a labyrinth of
+small yards. To one of these the Cock public-house gave its name.
+Tradition says that the Abbey workmen received their wages at the Cock
+in the reign of Henry III. At the eastern corner, where Tothill and
+Victoria Streets meet, is the Palace Hotel, a very large building, with
+two Titanic male figures supporting the portico in an attitude of
+eternal strain. This is on part of the site of the Almonry. This
+Almonry is thus described by Stow: "Now corruptly the Ambry, for that
+the alms of the Abbey were there distributed to the Poor. Therein was
+printing first practised in England." Caxton is often spoken of,
+incorrectly, as the inventor of printing. That credit belongs to
+Gutenberg, a native of Mainz, but Caxton was the first who brought the
+art to England and printed English books. He was born in the Weald of
+Kent, and his father was a citizen of London. As a boy, Caxton was sent
+to a house of English merchants at Bruges, and there he remained for
+many years, rising steadily in reputation. There he came in contact with
+a man named Colard Mansion, who had brought the art of printing to
+Bruges. Caxton seems to have seen at once the vast importance of the
+invention, and got Mansion to print two books in English, the first ever
+set up in the language. These were: "A Recuyell of the Historyes of
+Troie," printed 1474; and "The Game and Playe of the Chesse." Apparently
+the experiment met with success. Caxton soon after left the house of
+business, married, and became secretary to the Duchess of Burgundy, but
+he was not long in her service, for he returned to England in 1476. He
+brought over with him printing-presses and workmen, and settled in
+Westminster. He placed his press, by permission of the Prior
+(afterwards Abbot) Islip, in the Almonry just outside the gatehouse.
+
+His house was called Reed (Red) Pale, and was situated on the north side
+of the Almonry. A house traditionally called Caxton's was pointed out up
+to fifty years ago. It is described as being of red brick. In the
+library of Brasenose College, Oxford, there is a placard in Caxton's
+largest type inviting people to "come to Westminster in the Almonystrye
+at the Reed Pale."
+
+Caxton died in 1491, and, with his wife, is buried in St. Margaret's
+Church. He left one daughter.
+
+A copy of "The Royal Book," or "Book for a King," compiled for Philip of
+France in 1279, and translated and printed by Caxton at Westminster in
+1487, was sold this year in England for £2,225. There are only five
+copies in existence, one of which was sold in 1901 for £1,550. The other
+three are in public libraries. Could Caxton have looked onward for 400
+years, his astonishment and gratification at these prodigious prices
+would doubtless have been extreme.
+
+The Almonry, or "Eleemosynary," as Stow calls it, was in two parts, of
+which the larger was again subdivided in two portions, parallel to the
+two Tothill Streets. The distribution of the Royal maundy which takes
+place in Westminster Abbey yearly, with much ceremony, is a reminder of
+the ancient almsgiving. The address of the present Royal Almonry is 6,
+Craigs Court.
+
+Henry VII.'s almshouses were in the Little Almonry, and St. Ann's Chapel
+(p. 23) was at the southern end. King Henry's mother, Margaret, erected
+an almshouse near the chapel for poor women, which "was afterwards
+turned into lodgings for the singing men of the College."
+
+A great gatehouse formerly stood at the east end of Victoria Street,
+close by Dean's Yard. It was built by Richard II., and was very massive,
+resembling a square tower of stone, and it altogether lacked the
+architectural decoration of the other gateways near King Street to be
+spoken of presently. Well might it seem gloomy, for it fulfilled the
+functions of a prison. On one side was the Bishop of London's prison for
+"Clerks, convict," and in the other were confined prisoners from the
+City or Liberties of Westminster. Many distinguished prisoners were
+confined here. Sir Walter Raleigh passed the night before his execution
+within the solid walls, and wrote his farewell to life:
+
+    "Even such is Time! that takes on trust
+    Our youth, our joys, our all we have;
+    And pays us but with age and dust;
+    Who in the dark and silent grave,
+    When we have wandered all our ways,
+    Shuts up the story of our days."
+
+Perhaps the most illustrious victim of all those who have perished on
+English scaffolds is Sir Walter Raleigh. He was brought out to die in
+Old Palace Yard at eight in the morning of October 29, 1618. The day
+chosen was Lord Mayor's Day, in the hope that the pageants of the day
+would draw away the people from witnessing the death of this great man.
+The story of his execution is well known. His last words have not been
+allowed to perish. "Now," he said, as he mounted the scaffold, "I am
+going to God." Then, touching the axe, he said: "This is a sharp
+medicine, but it will cure all diseases." Lady Raleigh herself waited
+near the scaffold in a coach. The head was placed in a leather bag,
+wrapped about with Sir Walter's gown, and so she carried it away. She
+preserved it in a case during the rest of her life, and her son Carew
+kept it afterwards. It is believed to have been buried at last at West
+Horsley, in Surrey. The body was buried in St. Margaret's, near the
+altar.
+
+Here also was imprisoned Colonel Lovelace, who wrote within the gloomy
+walls the well-known lines:
+
+    "When, linnet-like, confinéd I
+      With shriller note shall sing
+    The mercye, sweetness, majesty,
+      And glories of my King;
+    When I shall voyce aloud how good
+      He is, how great should be,
+    Th' enlarged winds that curl the flood
+      Know no such liberty.
+
+    "Stone walls do not a prison make,
+      Nor iron bars a cage:
+    Minds, innocent and quiet, take
+      That for an hermitage.
+    If I have freedom in my love,
+      And in my soul am free,
+    Angels alone, that soare above,
+      Enjoy such liberty."
+
+Here were confined, also, Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; and Sir Jeffrey
+Hudson, the little dwarf, who was first in the service of the Duchess of
+Buckingham, and afterwards in that of Queen Henrietta Maria, and was
+twice painted by Vandyck. Hudson died in the prison. Hampden, Sir John
+Eliot, and Lilly, the astrologer, were imprisoned at various times, and
+Titus Oates died in the gatehouse in his sixty-third year. Richard
+Savage, the poet, adds another name to the list. In 1776 the Dean and
+Chapter of Westminster ordered that the gatehouse should be pulled down,
+but one wall, adjoining the house once inhabited by Edmund Burke, was
+still standing in 1836.
+
+Close by was Thieving Lane, through which thieves were taken to the
+prison without passing by the sanctuary and claiming its immunity.
+
+Within the High Gate was the Abbey Precinct, and with this we pass into
+by far the most interesting part of Westminster--that part that may be
+called the nucleus, round which cluster so many historical memories that
+the mere task of recording them is very great.
+
+
+
+
+PART III
+
+THE HEART OF WESTMINSTER.
+
+
+As we, in imagination, pass through the ancient prison gate, at the east
+end of Victoria Street, we find on the left Prince's Street, formerly
+called Long Ditch. His Majesty's Stationery Office stands on the east, a
+large dull brick building, stuccoed in front, built round a courtyard.
+Lewisham Street and Parker Street are long narrow foot-passages, running
+east and west, the latter a cul-de-sac. The tablet on the wall is much
+worn, but seems to have borne the date "Parker Street, 1621." This is in
+accordance with the lines of old flat-casemented, two-story houses which
+line each side of the street.
+
+Westminster Hospital originated in 1715 at a small house in Birdcage
+Walk from which outdoor relief was administered. Five years later the
+hospital began to receive in-patients, and in 1724 began a new lease of
+usefulness in a building in Chapel Street with accommodation for sixty
+in-patients. Nine years after the removal to Chapel Street the hospital
+was transferred to James Street. This change of position was objected to
+by part of the governing body, who seceded, and eventually established
+St. George's Hospital at Hyde Park Corner. In 1834 the present building
+was erected. It was the first to be established by voluntary
+contributions in London. It is unique in possessing an incurable ward,
+and in the system of nursing, which is carried out by contract. The
+leads are utilized as an airing-ground for the patients.
+
+The Guildhall or Sessions House of Middlesex is an ancient institution.
+Previous to 1752 the sessions were held at the Town Court House near
+Westminster Hall. In 1805 the Guildhall was erected from designs by S.
+P. Cockerell at the spot where the present Gothic fountain is. The
+present building is on the site of the Sanctuary. A little building of
+heavy stonework, about sixty feet high, once stood here; it had one door
+only, of solid oak, covered with iron plates, and this led into a sombre
+chapel. This was St. Peter's Sanctuary, dedicated to the Holy Innocents,
+and to it any hunted criminal had the right of entry. Apparently, his
+pursuers might besiege him without danger of sacrilege, but at any rate
+he could defy them in tolerable security within those massive walls.
+There do not seem to be many records of the occasions on which it was
+used; we do not hear of the quick step and panting breath of the
+fugitive as he neared that doorway, nor read of the sense of relief with
+which he shot the bolts into place before he crept up to the roof to
+peep over the low parapet and see if his enemies were hard upon his
+heels. Yet these things must have happened again and again. The most
+touching occasion recorded in history is when the Queen-mother Elizabeth
+sought refuge here with her younger son Richard and her daughters. It
+was not a new thing to her to have to seek protection thus. She had been
+here before, and her elder boy, destined for so short a reign and so
+cruel a death, had been born within the confines of the prison-like
+walls. On the second occasion, when the ferocious Richard, Duke of
+Gloucester, sought to obtain possession of his younger nephew, he
+respected the limits of sanctuary, but with his plausible tongue he
+persuaded the Archbishop who accompanied him to consent to his schemes,
+and he silenced, if he did not assuage, the mother's fears. So the
+little Richard was taken to die in the Tower with his brother, and small
+use had sanctuary been to him.
+
+The work of the demolition of this massive keep was going on in 1775,
+but it does not seem to have proceeded regularly; people came and tore
+away fragments from the walls as they listed, and the gloomy building
+vanished piecemeal.
+
+By Acts passed in the early part of the nineteenth century, part of Long
+Ditch, Bridge Street, Little George Street, and King Street were cleared
+away, also Broad and Little Sanctuary, Thieving Lane, and many small
+courts, and on the space thus obtained public seats were placed,
+flower-beds planted, and statues erected.
+
+The statues on the quadrangular piece of ground in the centre are of
+Peel and Beaconsfield, north and south; Palmerston and Derby on the
+east. The statue of George Canning is in the western enclosure. Union
+Street ran due eastward to New Palace Yard, and must have cut very near
+the place where the statue of Palmerston now stands. The drinking
+fountain at the corner of Great George Street was put up by Charles
+Buxton in 1865 in memory of the abolition of the slave trade.
+
+Westminster Abbey, Palace, and City stood formerly upon a small island
+called Thorney, the Isle of Bramble, a low-lying islet covered with
+brambles, nowhere more than three or four feet above the level of
+high-tide formed by the fall of the little river, the Tye, into the
+Thames. Part of this stream ran down Gardener's Lane; part of it
+diverged and ran south, forming a narrow moat or ditch called Long Lane,
+turned eastward at College Street, and so fell into the Thames. The
+island is mentioned in a charter of 785 by Offa, King of Mercia, as
+"Tornica, Locus terribilis"--_i.e._, sacred. It was about 1,410 feet
+long and 1,100 feet broad. It was almost entirely, save for a narrow
+piece of land on the north, occupied by the King's House and the Abbey.
+Both Palace and Abbey were surrounded by walls, one wall being common
+to both.
+
+The Palace Precinct had three gates: one on the north, one on the
+east--leading to the Bridge, _i.e._, the jetty where the state barges
+and the boats lay--and a postern leading into the Abbey. Westminster was
+at first a large rural manor belonging to the Abbey before the erection
+of the Palace.
+
+A large part of Thorney Island is still only slightly above the level of
+high-tide. King Street was 5 feet 6 inches only above high-water mark.
+This was the foundation of Westminster. It was a busy place long before
+London Bridge was built--a place of throng and moil as far back as the
+centuries before the coming of the Romans. A church was built in the
+most crowded part of it; monks in leathern jerkins lived beside the
+church, which lay in ruins for two hundred years, while the pagan Saxon
+passed every day beside it across the double ford. During the two
+hundred years of war and conquest by the Saxons, Westminster, quite
+forgotten and deserted, lay with its brambles growing over the Roman
+ruins, and the weather and ivy pulling down the old walls of villa and
+stationary camp piecemeal. Perhaps--rather probably--there had been a
+church upon the island in the third or fourth century. Soon after the
+conversion of the Saxons another church was erected here with a monastic
+house. Then there was another destruction and another rebuilding, for
+this place was deserted by the monks; perhaps they were murdered during
+the Danish troubles. It was King Edgar who restored the Abbey, to which
+Dunstan brought twelve monks from Glastonbury.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
+
+(MRS. A. MURRAY SMITH.)
+
+On the sacred island the last great Prince of the Saxon race, Edward,
+son of Ethelred the Unready, found Dunstan's little brotherhood of
+Benedictine monks, who were living in mud huts round a small stone
+chapel. Out of this insignificant beginning grew a mighty monastery, the
+West Minster, dowered with royal gifts and ruled over by mitred Abbots,
+who owned no ecclesiastical authority save that of the Pope, bowed to no
+secular arm save that of the Sovereign himself. The full title of the
+Abbey, which is seldom used nowadays, is the Collegiate Church of St.
+Peter's.
+
+King Edward had vowed, during his long exile in Normandy, that if he
+ever sat on the throne of his fathers he would go on a pilgrimage to St.
+Peter's shrine at Rome. But after his accession the unsettled state of
+the kingdom made it impossible to keep this vow, and he was absolved
+from it by the Pope on the condition that he should found or re-endow a
+monastic church dedicated to St. Peter. This, therefore, was the origin
+of the great West Minster, and in afterdays the tomb of St. Edward the
+Confessor within its walls attracted pilgrims here, and made the
+building a peculiarly sacred one. Here the Sovereigns of England were
+always crowned, often married, and until the time of George III. usually
+buried.
+
+The earliest coronation of which there is historic certainty was that of
+Edward's friend and former protector, the Conqueror, William I. As the
+last Saxon King of the race of Ethelred was the first Sovereign who was
+buried at Westminster, so the head of the Norman line of English Kings
+was the first who was hallowed to the service of God and of his people
+on this historic spot. No trace is left of Edward's Norman monastery,
+save the foundations of some of the pillars and a round arch in the
+cloisters; but we know that his church was nearly on the same place as
+the present Abbey, and that the old Norman nave stood for many hundred
+years joined on to the choir and transepts of the new Early English
+building, and was pulled down bit by bit as the later church grew. For
+the beautiful Abbey which we see before us now, in the heart of a busy
+thoroughfare, is the work, not of one generation, but of five hundred
+years. The central part was built in the thirteenth century. The
+Confessor had been canonized by the Pope in 1163, and a century later
+Henry III., who was a fervent admirer of the saint, caused a splendid
+shrine to be made by Italian workmen, which was to replace the old one
+of Henry II.'s time. The new style of pointed architecture was just
+coming in, and the Abbot of Westminster, Humez, had added a Lady Chapel
+to the old Norman church when Henry III. was a boy. As the King grew to
+manhood he saw the contrast between the two styles of architecture, and
+while the Italian shrine was still only half finished he caused the
+central part of the Confessor's Norman church to be demolished, and in
+its place an Early English choir and transepts were gradually
+constructed during the last twenty-seven years of Henry's reign, with a
+series of little chapels round the principal one where the shrine was to
+be placed. In 1269 the new church was ready for service, and the chapel
+was prepared for the shrine.
+
+The shrine, and within it the Confessor's coffin, still stands in the
+centre of this royal chapel of St. Edward--a battered wreck, yet bearing
+traces of its former beauty--and round it is a circle of royal tombs,
+drawn as by a magnet to the proximity of the royal saint. Henry III.,
+the second founder, is here himself. At his head is his warlike son
+Edward I., the Hammer of the Scots, with his faithful wife, Eleanor of
+Castile, at his feet. On the other side are the tombs of another
+Plantagenet, Edward III., the "mighty victor, mighty lord," and his good
+Queen, the Flemish Philippa. In a line with them is their handsome,
+unfortunate grandson Richard II., whose picture hangs beside the altar.
+Here also is the Coronation Chair, which encloses the Stone of Scone,
+and upon this "Seat of Majesty," ever since the time of Edward I., who
+reft the ancient stone from the Scots, all our Sovereigns have been
+seated at the moment of their coronation. On the west of the royal
+chapel a screen depicts the legends of the Confessor's life; on the east
+is the mutilated tomb of Henry V., the victor of Agincourt; above it the
+Chantry Chapel, where, after centuries of neglect, rest the remains of
+his wife, the French Catherine, ancestress of the great Tudor line.
+
+While the different dynasties succeeded one another, the building of the
+monastery and church went on slowly but surely under different Abbots,
+the monastic funds helped by gifts of money from the Kings and Queens
+and from the pilgrims who visited the shrine. Edward I., for instance,
+continued his father's work from the crossing of the transepts to one
+bay west of the present organ-screen, while after him Richard II. and
+Henry V. were the principal benefactors to the fabric. The west end was
+not reached till early in the sixteenth century, in the reign of Henry
+VII., when Abbot Islip superintended the completion of the west front
+and placed in the niches statues of those Kings who had been
+benefactors. The towers were not built till 1740, after the designs of
+Sir Christopher Wren, who died before they were finished. The great
+northern entrance has been called "Solomon's Porch" since the reign of
+Richard II., who erected a beautiful wooden porch outside the north
+door. This was destroyed in the thirteenth century, and the end of the
+north transept was changed into the classical style under Dean
+Atterbury, to whom, it is fair to add, we owe the fine glass of the
+rose-window. Within recent years the north front has again been restored
+on the lines of the original thirteenth-century architecture, and the
+present sculpture on the porch is from the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott;
+the work was carried out by Mr. John Pearson, who was the Abbey
+architect at that time.
+
+At the extreme east end, in the place of the Lady Chapel built by Abbot
+Humez, is the famous chapel called the "Wonder of the World," which was
+founded and endowed by the first Tudor King, and intended as a place of
+sepulture for himself and his family. The foundation-stone was laid in
+the presence of Henry VII. himself and of the great builder, Abbot
+Islip. The style is Perpendicular, much later than the main portion of
+the Abbey, and the whole of the exterior and interior is elaborately
+carved and decorated with stone panelling, the badge of the Royal
+founder, the Tudor rose, recurring all over the walls. Inside the great
+feature is the "fan tracery" of the stone roof, which resembles that of
+King's College Chapel, Cambridge. The windows were once filled with
+coloured glass, only a fragment of which remains; and the niches with
+statues of saints and Kings, many of which were destroyed in early
+Puritan times, in the reign of Edward VI. In 1725 this chapel was
+appointed as the place for the installation of the Knights of the Bath,
+an Order revived by George I., and, although the Knights are now
+installed at Windsor, the Dean of Westminster remains the official
+chaplain of the Order.
+
+In the centre of the chapel is the tomb of the founder, Henry VII., and
+his wife, Elizabeth of York, and on the grille and the gates are the
+family badges. The tomb of Henry's mother, Margaret, Countess of
+Richmond, is in the south aisle; and the effigies of herself, her son
+and his wife, are fine specimens of the skill of the famous Italian
+sculptor Torrigiano. Henry's grand-daughters, the Queens Elizabeth and
+Mary Tudor, lie in the opposite aisle, sisters parted in life but united
+in death. Many other descendants of the founder lie side by side within
+the vaults, while the tombs of two of them, Margaret Stuart, Countess of
+Lennox, and Mary, Queen of Scots, are close to their common ancestress,
+Lady Margaret, in the south aisle. All the Stuart Sovereigns with the
+exception of James II. are here, but their only memorials are the wax
+figures of Charles II., William and Mary, and Anne, in the Islip chantry
+chapel.
+
+In a small chapel to the east of Henry VII.'s tomb once lay the bodies
+of the great Protector, Oliver Cromwell, and many of his mighty men, but
+their bones were dug up after the Restoration, and not allowed to rest
+in the Royal church. The Hanoverian Sovereigns are represented only by
+George II. and his Queen, Caroline the Illustrious, who rest here, their
+dust mingled according to the King's desire. Close by lie members of
+their numerous family and the mother, brothers and sisters of the next
+King, their grandson, George III. Amongst his relations is that brave
+General, the Duke of Cumberland, whose memory is maligned in the
+sobriquet "Billy the Butcher."
+
+In the ring of smaller chapels all around the shrine are the tombs of
+Princes and Princesses, courtiers and Court ladies, warriors and
+statesmen. Most conspicuous of all, towering over the beautiful
+Crusaders' monuments, is the vast cenotaph which insults the memory of
+Wolfe, and not far off is the colossal statue of James Watt.
+
+Outside, the cloisters recall the days of the monastery, when the Abbot
+sat in state in the east cloister or washed the feet of beggars, and
+the brethren taught the novices and little schoolboys from the
+neighbourhood. The architecture there begins in the eleventh century and
+ends in the fourteenth, when Abbot Litlington finished the building of
+the monastic offices and cloisters with his predecessor Langham's
+bequest.
+
+The incomparable chapter-house was built in Henry III.'s time, and
+restored to some of its original beauty by Sir Gilbert Scott. The modern
+glass windows remind us of Dean Stanley and his love for the
+Abbey-church. The chapter-house belongs, as does the Chapel of the Pyx,
+to the Government, and is not under the Dean's jurisdiction. There the
+early Parliaments used to meet. In the south cloister is the door of the
+old refectory where the monks dined, and a little further on we come to
+the Abbot's house (now the Deanery), which contained in old days within
+its limits the "College Hall," where the Westminster schoolboys now have
+their meals. The Jerusalem Chamber and Jericho Parlour, which were
+formerly the Abbot's withdrawing-room and guest-chambers, date from the
+abbacy of Litlington at the end of the fourteenth century. To all lovers
+of Shakespeare the Jerusalem Chamber is familiar as the place where
+Henry IV. was carried when he fell stricken with a mortal illness before
+the shrine, and where Henry V. fitted on his father's crown. In this
+room in our own days the Revisers of the Bible used to meet.
+
+If we pass back into the nave by the west door, we shall see the names
+of statesmen, of naval and military heroes, on every side. Huge
+monstrosities of monuments surround us and grow in bulk as we pass up
+the musicians' aisle and reach the north transept, called the
+Statesmen's Corner. If we pause and glance around, striving to forget
+the outer shell, and to think only of the noble men commemorated, we
+shall remember much to make us proud of England's heroes and worthies.
+Above the west door stands young William Pitt pointing with outstretched
+arm towards the north transept, where we shall find his venerable
+father, Lord Chatham. Almost beneath his feet is the philanthropist Lord
+Shaftesbury, and near to him is a white slave kneeling before the statue
+of Charles James Fox, whose huge monument hides the humbler tablet to
+another zealous opponent of the slave trade, Zachary Macaulay. We must
+pause here an instant to gaze upon the bronze medallion head of General
+Gordon, the martyr of the Soudan, an enthusiast also in the suppression
+of slavery; and as we walk up the nave we must look for the slab of
+Livingstone, whose remains were brought to their final resting-place
+over deserts and trackless wildernesses by his faithful black servants.
+
+On the right, in Little Poets' Corner, is to be found the chief of the
+Lake poets, William Wordsworth. Here also is Dr. Arnold, the noted
+Headmaster of Rugby, his son Matthew, poet and critic, and beside them
+Keble, Kingsley and Maurice.
+
+The makers of our Indian Empire are about us now. Outram, the "Bayard of
+India," lies between Lord Lawrence and Lord Clyde; while in the north
+transept are earlier pioneers, the faithful naval, military, and civil
+servants of the great East India Company. On each side of the screen are
+two ponderous monuments which cannot escape the notice of the most
+casual sightseer; these commemorate Lord Stanhope, a General whose early
+reputation ranked next to that of Marlborough in Spain, and the immortal
+philosopher, Sir Isaac Newton. Purcell, chief among English musicians,
+claims our notice in the choir aisle, and we pass on surrounded by other
+musicians, by sailors and soldiers, until we stand in the very midst of
+the statesmen. It may be we have come to the Abbey in the spring, when
+we shall see the statue of Lord Beaconsfield literally covered with
+primroses. The Cannings, Sir Robert Peel in his Roman toga, Lord
+Palmerston, and many other statesmen, are here, and our feet tread on
+the grave of Gladstone as we pass towards the other transept, hastening
+to the company of the poets and men of letters.
+
+The south transept has only been called Poets' Corner since the burial
+of Spenser, who was the darling of his generation. But the grave of
+Chaucer, "the father of English poetry," had consecrated the aisle to
+poetry long before. Chaucer was not given honourable sepulture here
+because he was a poet, but only from the accidental fact that he
+happened to be Clerk of the Works at Westminster Palace, and lived near
+the old Lady Chapel. For 250 years the great poet's only memorial was a
+leaden plate hanging on a column close by, but in 1551 a devoted
+admirer, himself a versifier, Nicholas Brigham, placed an ancient tomb
+here in memory of the master, with a fancy painting of Chaucer at the
+back. Before this monument are the graves of the two most famous poets
+of our generation, the Laureate Tennyson and Robert Browning, side by
+side. Above them is the beautiful bust of another Poet Laureate, Dryden,
+and the less artistic portrait bust of the American poet Longfellow.
+
+The walls of the Poets' Corner are literally covered with memorials of
+men of letters. Many of these are but names to us at the present day,
+but some are familiar; others, such as "Rare Ben Jonson," Butler, the
+author of "Hudibras," Thomas Gray, Spenser, and Goldsmith, are household
+words throughout the Empire. Beneath our feet lie Sheridan and old Dr.
+Johnson.
+
+The tardy memorials to Milton and Shakespeare eclipse the fame of all
+the rest. Quite recently busts of the Scotch bard Robert Burns, the
+poet-novelist Walter Scott, and a medallion head of the artistic prose
+writer and critic John Ruskin, have been placed here. Music is not
+unrepresented, for above us is the unwieldy figure of Handel, and
+beneath his feet a memorial to the Swedish nightingale, Jenny Lind
+Goldschmidt, whose perfect rendering of the master's airs will ever
+remain in the memory of those who were privileged to hear her. Further
+on is the historical side, where the chief prose writers are to be
+found; the venerable Camden is close to Grote and Bishop Thirlwall,
+historians whose bodies rest in one grave. The busts of Lord Macaulay
+and of Thackeray are on each side of Addison's statue, and beneath the
+pavement in front of them is the tombstone of the ever-popular Charles
+Dickens. David Garrick stands in close proximity to the grave of the
+dramatist Davenant, while scattered in various parts of the Abbey and
+cloisters will be found the names of other actors and actresses, notably
+Mrs. Siddons and her brother, John Kemble.
+
+It is impossible in a few paragraphs to do more than allude to the
+history of the Abbey, and of the dead whose names are commemorated, or
+whose bodies rest within this great "Temple of Silence and
+Reconciliation." Let us conclude this brief sketch with the pregnant and
+pathetic words of the young playwriter John Beaumont, whose bones are
+mouldering beside those of Chaucer:
+
+    "Mortality, behold and fear!
+    What a change of flesh is here!
+    Think how many royal bones
+    Sleep within these heaps of stones.
+    Here they lie had realms and lands
+    Who now want strength to stir their hands.
+    ... Here are sands, ignoble things
+    Dropt from the ruined sides of kings;
+    Here's a world of pomp and state,
+    Buried in dust once dead by fate."
+
+
+ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH.
+
+St. Margaret's Church is traditionally said to have been founded by
+Edward the Confessor, and that there was certainly a church here before
+1140 is proved by its being mentioned in a grant of Abbot Herebert, who
+died in that year. It was originally a chapel in the south aisle of the
+church of the Benedictine monks, and was rebuilt to a great extent in
+Edward I.'s reign. Further alterations were made in the time of Edward
+IV. In 1735 the tower was raised and faced with stone, and in 1758 the
+east end was rebuilt and the present stained glass inserted. A famous
+case between Sir Thomas Grosvenor and the family of Scrope concerning
+the rights of a heraldic device which either claimed was heard in St.
+Margaret's, and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, gave evidence. In 1549
+Latimer preached in the church. The Protector Somerset, at the time he
+was building his great mansion in the Strand, had used a good deal of
+the ruins of religious houses, and still wanted more material. He
+therefore cast his unholy eyes upon St. Margaret's in order that he
+might use its time-worn stones for his own purposes, but he was resisted
+by the people of Westminster, who arose in their wrath and smote his
+workmen hip and thigh.
+
+On Palm Sunday in 1713 the great Dr. Sacheverell preached in the church
+after the term of his suspension, and no less than 40,000 copies of his
+sermon were sold. The church was for long peculiarly associated with the
+House of Commons, as when the members began to sit in St. Stephen's
+Chapel they attended Divine service in St. Margaret's, while the Lords
+went to the Abbey. Edmund Waller, the poet, was married in St.
+Margaret's to Anne Banks on July 5, 1631, and John Milton to Katherine
+Woodcock in November, 1656. A son of Sir Walter Raleigh's is buried in
+the church, and also Colonel Blood. Children of Judge Jeffreys: Bishop
+Burnet, Titus Oates and Jeremy Bentham were christened here. Besides
+Latimer and Sacheverell the list of great preachers in St. Margaret's is
+long, including many Archbishops and Bishops, and the roll of Rectors
+contains many distinguished names. A man who occupies the pulpit must
+feel he has high tradition to uphold.
+
+The interior of St. Margaret's is far superior to the exterior, a
+reversal of what is usual in church architecture. The splendid arcades
+of aisle arches, early Perpendicular, or transition from Decorated to
+the Perpendicular style, are uninterrupted by any chancel arch, and with
+the clerestory windows sweep from end to end of the building. The east
+window is filled with stained glass of the richest tints, the blues and
+greens being particularly striking. This glass has a history. It was
+made at Gouda in Holland, and was a present from the magistrates of Dort
+to Henry VIII. for the chapel of Whitehall Palace. The King, however,
+gave it to Waltham Abbey (doubtless in exchange for something else). The
+glass suffered many removals and vicissitudes, being at one time buried
+to escape Puritan zeal, but it was eventually bought by the
+churchwardens of St. Margaret's for 400 guineas. The aisle windows, with
+one exception, to be noted presently, are the work of Sir Gilbert Scott
+at the last restoration, just before 1882. He designed the tracery in
+accordance with what he conceived to have been the date of the church;
+but when his work was finished a single window, that furthest east in
+the south aisle, was discovered walled up, and the style of this showed
+that his surmise had not been far wrong, though the period he had
+chosen was a little later. The glass in several of the windows is of
+interest. That at the east end of the south aisle is the Caxton window,
+put up 1820 by the Roxburghe Club, as was also the tablet below. That in
+the window in the centre, west end, is in memory of Sir Walter Raleigh,
+who was beheaded in Old Palace Yard, near at hand. It was put in by
+Americans about twenty years ago. Raleigh's tablet, with an inscription
+copied from the old wooden one which dated from the time of his death,
+is near the east entrance. The Milton window, also due to the generosity
+of an American, is on the north side of the Raleigh one. One of especial
+interest to Americans is that to Phillips Brooks, Bishop of
+Massachusetts, near the vestry door. There are many others deserving of
+notice.
+
+The general tint of all the glass is rich and subdued, with a
+predominance of yellow and sepia strangely effective. Of monuments there
+are many--they may be examined in detail on the spot; the oldest is that
+to Cornelius Van Dun, a dark stone medallion with a man's head in
+bas-relief on the north wall. Van Dun was Yeoman of the Guard and Usher
+to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth. A quaint one near it is
+to "Egioke," died 1622. The most elaborate monument in the church is
+that to Mary, Lady Dudley, sister to the famous Lord Howard of
+Effingham. This is the life-sized figure of a woman in alabaster, highly
+coloured; it stands near the vestry door. Above it is a relic that many
+might pass unnoticed; it is the figure of a woman about two-thirds
+life-size standing in an ancient rood door. The statue was found built
+up in the wall by a workman who struck his pick into the coloured stuff,
+and called attention to the fact. The figure is either that of the
+Virgin or St. Margaret. It has been carefully put together, but the head
+is lacking. Puritan zeal had evidently to do with its concealment.
+Puritan zeal, too, was answerable for the destruction of a magnificent
+tomb to Dame Billing, a benefactress who rebuilt the south aisle of the
+church about 1499.
+
+The churchwardens of St. Margaret's hold a valuable old loving-cup,
+presented 1764, and a tobacco-box purchased at Horn Fair for fourpence,
+and presented to the overseers by a Mr. Monck in 1713. Each succeeding
+set of overseers has added to the decoration of the box or given it a
+new case, and many of these are beautifully engraved; on the inside of
+the original lid Hogarth engraved on a silver plate the bust of the Duke
+of Cumberland of Culloden celebrity, and the whole set is now of great
+value and is quite unique. The door of the church opposite the Houses of
+Parliament is open daily from eleven till two.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER SCHOOL.
+
+Outside the archway leading to Dean's Yard there is a granite column to
+the memory of the Westminster boys who fell in the Crimean War and
+Indian Mutiny. It was designed by Gilbert Scott, R.A. Scott was also the
+architect of the houses over the archway close at hand. The school has
+been long and intimately associated with the Abbey; there was probably a
+scholastic establishment carried on by the monks from the very earliest
+days, and recent discoveries by Mr. Edward Scott in the Abbey muniments
+prove that there was a grammar school--and not only a choir school--in
+existence before the Reformation. On the dissolution of the Abbey in
+Henry VIII.'s reign, it was formed into a college of Secular Canons, and
+the school was in existence then in dependence on the Canons. Queen
+Elizabeth remodelled her father's scheme and refounded the school,
+calling it St. Peter's College, Westminster, which is still its correct
+designation; so that, though the present establishment owes its origin
+to Queen Elizabeth, it may be said to have inherited the antiquity of
+its predecessor, and to hold its own in that matter with Winchester and
+Eton.
+
+If we pass under the archway into Dean's Yard, we find a backwater
+indeed, where the roar of traffic scarcely penetrates, where sleek
+pigeons coo in the elm-trees round a grass plot, as if they were in the
+close of one of the sleepiest of provincial towns instead of in the
+midst of one of the greatest cities in the world. On the east side there
+is a long building of smoke-blackened, old stone. The door at the north
+end leads into the cloisters, from whence we can pass into the school
+courtyard, otherwise the school entry is by a pointed doorway a little
+further down, beneath the Headmaster's house. Entering this, we have on
+the left Ashburnham House, on the right the houses of masters who take
+boarders, and opposite, a fine gateway with the arms of Queen Elizabeth
+over it; this is said to have been designed by Inigo Jones. The greater
+part of the buildings was designed by Wren, who died before the project
+was carried out, but there seems to be little doubt that the Earl of
+Burlington, who followed him in the appointment, used Wren's plans. The
+great square building, the scholars' dormitory (now cubicles), which
+faces us, standing a little way to the right of the ornamental gateway,
+is of this period; also much of the main building into which we enter by
+the gateway above mentioned, and a flight of steps. The seventh form
+room on the right has a fine ceiling of Italian plaster and bookcases
+with carved panels. This is known as Dr. Busby's Library, because built
+by him. It looks out over the college garden.
+
+The great schoolroom beyond, known as Up-School, is a splendid room,
+with mighty beams in its fine timber roof, and panels with the arms of
+Westminster boys now dead on the walls. The bar over which the pancake
+is tossed on Shrove Tuesday is pointed out, and a very great height it
+is. At the upper end of the room, which, by the way, is now used only
+for prayers, concerts, etc., is the birching-table, black and worn with
+age and use. Dryden's name, carved on a bench, is shown, and a chair
+presented by King Charles to Dr. Busby. The walls date originally from
+the twelfth century or earlier, but were practically rebuilt in the end
+of the eighteenth century. The only part of the college buildings which
+formed part of the original school is the college hall, built by Abbot
+Litlington in 1380 as the monks' refectory. But by far the oldest part
+of the buildings at present incorporated in the school is the Norman
+crypt, approached from the dark cloister, and forming part of the
+gymnasium made by the Chapter in 1860, by roofing in the walls beyond
+it, between it and the Chapter-house. A stranger gymnasium, surely, no
+school can boast.
+
+The name of Dr. Busby, Headmaster from 1638 to 1695, will be for ever
+held in honour at Westminster. He himself had been a Westminster boy,
+and all his great ability and strong character were bent to furthering
+the interests of the school.
+
+The roll of names of those educated at Westminster includes Dryden,
+Bishop Atterbury, Cowley, Warren Hastings, Gibbon, Thomas Cowper,
+Charles Wesley, Lord John Russell, and many others well known wherever
+the English tongue is spoken.
+
+In 1706 there were nearly 400 boys, but after this the school began to
+decline; in 1841 it was at a very low ebb--there were less than seventy
+boys. The reasons for this decline were manifold. Building had been
+going on apace round the quiet precincts, and parents fancied their sons
+would be better in the country; also, though the charges were high, the
+system of living was extremely rough, and no money was spent on
+repairing the buildings. In 1845, when Wilberforce was appointed Dean,
+he set to work to inspire fresh life into the institution, but he had
+hardly time to do anything before he was appointed to the See of Oxford;
+however, the current set flowing by him gathered strength, and in 1846,
+when Liddell (afterwards Dean of Christchurch) was made Headmaster, the
+school was recovering its prosperity.
+
+Ashburnham House was taken over by the school in 1882, and it is well
+worth a visit. In the hall where the day boys have their lockers there
+is a very old buttery hatch, probably part of the monks' original
+building; at the back the little green garden is the site of the
+refectory, and traces of Norman windows are seen against the exterior
+cloister wall. The staircase in Ashburnham House is very fine; it is of
+the "well" variety, and is surmounted by a cupola with a little gallery.
+The walls are all panelled; unfortunately, paint has been laid on
+everything alike, and though the balusters have been recently uncovered,
+the process is difficult and laborious, and apt to injure the carving.
+The carving round the doorways is very fine, of the laurel-wreath
+pattern associated with the period of Wren. The house belonged to Lord
+Ashburnham, and was later used by the Prebendaries of the cathedral. The
+school is no longer in any sense dependent on the Abbey, and except that
+the boys attend the services there as "chapel," the old ties are
+severed. A great feature of the school are the King's (or Queen's)
+Scholars, founded by Elizabeth; of these there are now forty resident
+and twenty non-resident. There are three scholarships and three
+exhibitions yearly at Christ Church, Oxford, for Westminster boys, and
+three exhibitions at Trinity College, Oxford. There are at present
+(1902) about two hundred and thirty boys in the school. The Latin play,
+which is well known in connection with the school, is acted by the
+King's Scholars annually in the middle of December, and dates back to
+1704.
+
+
+HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
+
+The annals of New Palace Yard are long and interesting. It looks so new
+and modern, with its Houses of Parliament, and its iron railings, that
+one forgets how ancient a place it is. What stood on the site of
+Westminster Hall before William Rufus built it we know not, but
+certainly some buildings belonging to the Old Palace of Cnut and Edward
+the Confessor. It was called, however, New Palace Yard on account of the
+buildings erected by William and his successors. It was enclosed by a
+wall which had three gates. The water-gate was on the site of the
+present bridge, while the Star Chamber occupied very nearly the site of
+the present Clock Tower. The yard was further beautified by a fountain,
+which on great days flowed with wine; this fountain, which was taken
+down in the reign of Charles II., stood on the north side. On the same
+side behind the fountain was the "Clochard," or Clock Tower. This fine
+building was erected by Sir Ralph Hingham, Lord Chief Justice under
+Edward I., in payment of a fine of 800 marks imposed upon him by the
+King for having altered a court roll. It was done in mercy, in order to
+change a poor man's fine of 12s. 4d. to 6s. 8d., but a court roll must
+not be altered. The care of the clock was granted to the Dean of St.
+Stephen's, with an allowance of sixpence a day. The bell, very famous in
+its day, was large and sonorous; it could be heard all over London when
+the wind was south-west. It was first called Edward, and bore this
+legend:
+
+    "Tercius aptavit me Rex Edward que vocavit
+    Sancti decore Edwardi signerentur ut hore."
+
+When the Clock Tower, the "Clochard," was taken down in 1698, the bell
+called "Tom" was found to weigh 82 cwt. 2 qrs. 211 lb. It was bought by
+the Dean of St. Paul's. As it was being carried to the City, it fell
+from the cart in crossing the very boundary of Westminster, viz., under
+Temple Bar. In 1716 it was recast, and presently placed in the western
+tower of St. Paul's.
+
+In Palace Yard Perkin Warbeck sat in the stocks before the gate of
+Westminster Hall for a whole day, enduring innumerable reproaches,
+mockings and scornings.
+
+Here John Stubbs, the Puritan, an attorney of Lincoln's Inn, and Robert
+Page, his servant (December 3, 1580), had their hands struck off for a
+libel on the Queen, called "The Gaping Gulph, in which England will be
+swallowed by the French Marriage." What part the unfortunate servant
+played that he, too, should deserve a punishment so terrible is
+difficult to say. On March 2, 1585, William Parry was drawn from the
+Tower and hanged and quartered here. And in January, 1587, one Thomas
+Lovelace, sentenced by the Star Chamber for false accusations, was
+carried on horseback about Westminster Hall, his face to the tail; he
+was then pilloried, and had one of his ears cut off. The execution, in
+1612, of Lord Sanquire for the murder of a fencing-master, and of the
+Duke of Hamilton, the Earl of Holland and Lord Capel, on March 9, 1649,
+for so-called treason, took place in New Palace Yard. Here in 1630
+Alexander Leighton was whipped, pilloried and branded for a libel on the
+Queen and the Bishops. In May, 1685, Titus Oates was stripped of his
+ecclesiastical robes and led round Westminster Hall; afterwards he was
+put in the pillory. The printer of the famous "No. 45" of the _North
+Briton_ also stood in the pillory in New Palace Yard in 1765.
+
+In the Old Palace Yard, now covered by buildings, were fought out
+certain ordeals of battle. Here was held at least one famous tournament,
+that in which the two Scottish prisoners, the Earl Douglas and Sir
+William Douglas, bore themselves so gallantly that the King restored
+them to liberty on their promise not to fight against the English.
+
+One memory of Old Palace Yard must not be forgotten. Geoffrey Chaucer
+lived during his last year at a house adjoining the White Rose Tavern
+abutting on the Lady Chapel of the Abbey. The house was swept away to
+make room for Henry VII.'s chapel. Nor must we forget that Ben Jonson
+lived and died in a house over the gate or passage from the churchyard
+to the old palace. In the south-east corner of Old Palace Yard stood the
+house hired by the Gunpowder Plot conspirators for the conveyance of the
+barrels into the vault. And it was in Old Palace Yard that four of them
+suffered death.
+
+The whole of the ground now occupied by the Houses of Parliament,
+Westminster Hall and New Palace Yard was formerly covered with the
+walls, gates, tower, state chambers, private chambers, offices, stables,
+gardens, and outhouses, of the King's House, Westminster. Until sixty
+years ago, when fire finally destroyed them, still stood on this spot
+many of the buildings, altered and reroofed, repaired, and with changed
+windows and new decorations, of Edward the Confessor, and perhaps of
+Knut. Still under these modern houses the ground is covered with the old
+cellars, vaults and crypts, which it was found safer and cheaper to fill
+with cement than to break up and carry away.
+
+It is at present impossible to present a plan of the King's House such
+as it was when Edward the Confessor occupied it; we can, however, draw
+an incomplete plan of the place later on, say in the fourteenth
+century.
+
+The palace was walled, but not moated; it had two principal gates, one
+opening to the north, and another on the river. The circuit of the wall
+only included twelve acres and a half, and into this compass had to be
+crowded in Plantagenet times the King's and Queen's state and private
+apartments, and accommodation for an immense army of followers, and also
+for all the craftsmen and artificers required by the Court. The total
+number of persons thus housed in the fourteenth century is reckoned at
+20,000. The part of the King's House thus occupied, the narrow streets
+of gabled houses, with tourelles at the corners, and much gilded and
+carved work, has vanished completely, even to the memory. When King
+Henry VIII. removed to the palace at Whitehall a new Westminster arose
+about his old Court; this in its turn almost vanished with the fire of
+1834. Up to this time some of the old buildings remained, but have now
+completely gone. Among them were the Painted Chamber, the Star Chamber,
+the old House of Lords, and Princes' Chamber, all part of Edward the
+Confessor's palace. In the Painted Chamber the Confessor himself died,
+but it is manifestly impossible to give here any minute account of the
+chambers in the ancient building.
+
+The crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel (not shown to visitors) is one of the
+few parts remaining which dates from before the fire. The chapel is said
+to have been first built by the King whose name it bore, but was
+rebuilt by Edward I. and greatly altered by his two immediate
+successors. It was used for the sittings of the House of Commons after
+Edward VI.'s reign. At the end of the seventeenth century it was much
+altered by Wren, but it perished in 1834. A small chapel on the south
+side was called Our Lady of the Pew. The oldest part of the ancient
+palace remaining is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus as a part
+of a projected new palace. He held his Court here in 1099, and, on
+hearing a remark on the vastness of his hall, he declared that it would
+be only a bedroom to the palace when finished. However, he himself had
+to occupy much narrower quarters before he could carry out his scheme.
+Richard II. raised the hall and gave it the splendid hammer-beam roof,
+one of the finest feats in carpentry extant. George IV. refaced the
+exterior of the hall with stone.
+
+In the eighteenth century the Courts of Justice (Chancery and King's
+Bench) were held here, and as the hall was also lined with shops, and
+the babble and walking to and fro were incessant, it is not wonderful
+that justice was sometimes left undone. It would be difficult--nay,
+impossible--to tell in detail all the strange historic scenes enacted in
+Westminster Hall in the limited space at disposal, and as they are all
+concerned rather with the nation than with Westminster, mere mention of
+the principal ones will be enough. Henry II. caused his eldest son to be
+crowned in the hall in his own lifetime, at which ceremony the young
+Prince disdainfully asserted he was higher in rank than his father,
+having a King for father and a Queen for mother, whereas his father
+could only claim blood royal on the mother's side.
+
+Edward III. here received King John of France, brought captive by the
+Black Prince. In 1535 Sir Thomas More was tried here; later there were
+many trials, the greatest of which was that of King Charles I., followed
+by that of the regicides, brought to justice and the fruit of their
+crimes in a way they had not expected when they took prominent parts in
+the first great drama. Cromwell's head was stuck upon the southern gable
+of the hall, where it remained for twenty years. The trial of the Seven
+Bishops caused great excitement, that of Lords Kenmure and Derwentwater
+hardly less. Lord Byron was tried in Westminster Hall, and every child
+has heard of the arraignment of Warren Hastings. Surely, if ever a
+building had memories of historic dramas, played upon its floor as on a
+stage, it is Rufus's great hall at Westminster.
+
+Parliament was first called to Westminster in Edward I.'s reign. The
+Commons sat for 300 years in the Abbey Chapter-house, then for 300
+years more in St. Stephen's Chapel. In 1790 a report on the buildings
+declared them to be defective and in great danger of fire, a prophecy
+fulfilled in 1834. On the evening of October 16 in that year the wife of
+a doorkeeper saw a light under one of the doors, and gave an alarm. The
+place was made for a bonfire; a strong wind blowing from the south, and
+afterwards south-west, drove the flames along the dried woodwork and
+through the draughty passages. As the flames got a stronger and stronger
+hold, the scene from the further bank of the river was magnificent.
+Until three o'clock the next day the fire raged, and Westminster Hall
+and the crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel alone survived the wreck. The
+cause of the fire is said to have been the heating of the flues by some
+workmen burning a quantity of tallies or ancient notched sticks.
+
+The present Houses of Parliament, built after the fire from Sir Charles
+Barry's designs, have been the cause of much of that criticism which is
+applied to the work of some people by others who certainly could not do
+so well themselves. The material used is magnesian limestone, which,
+unfortunately, has not worn well; and the erection took seventeen years
+(1840-57). On Saturday afternoons the door under the Victoria Tower,
+south end, is open, and anyone may walk through the principal rooms.
+This is well worth doing, though what is to be seen is mostly modern.
+What will chiefly astonish strangers is the smallness of the House of
+Commons.
+
+The Clock Tower, 316 feet high, containing Big Ben, and standing at the
+north end of the present Houses of Parliament, is a notable object, and
+a landmark for miles around. Ben was called after Sir Benjamin Hall, who
+was First Commissioner of Works at the time he was brought into being.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Bridge Street was formed at the building of the bridge, and is almost on
+the site of the Long Woolstaple.
+
+In the reign of King Edward III., in the year 1353, Westminster was made
+one of the ten towns in England where the staple or market for wool
+might be held. This had formerly been held in Flanders, and the removal
+of the market to England brought a great increase to the Royal revenue,
+for on every sack exported the King received a certain sum. Pennant
+says: "The concourse of people which this removal of the Woolstaple to
+Westminster occasioned caused this Royal village to grow into a
+considerable town."
+
+Henry VI. held six wool-houses in the Staple, which he granted to the
+Dean and Canons of St. Stephen's.
+
+Walcott says: "On the north side of the Long Staple was a turning in a
+westerly direction leading into the Round Staple, at the south-east end
+of the present King Street." This must have been on the site of the
+present Great George Street. An attempt was made to establish a
+fish-market here in competition with Billingsgate, but the
+pre-established interest was too strong and the fish-market was
+abandoned.
+
+There was a gateway at the end of the Staple. This was still in
+existence in 1741, when it was pulled down in view of the new bridge.
+
+There has been much dispute as to the origin of the name of Cannon Row.
+Some hold that it was derived from the prebendal houses of the Canons of
+St. Stephen's Chapel, and others that it was a corruption of Channel
+Row, from the arm of the river which entered near the spot. There were
+many noble houses here at one time. The Earl of Derby in 1552 had two
+houses, with gardens stretching to the river, granted to him by Edward
+VI.
+
+Anne, Duchess of Somerset, built a house here. The Marquis of Dorset's
+house gave its name to a court subsequently built on its site. In
+1556-57 the Earl of Sussex lived here, and in 1618 a later Earl of Derby
+built a house, afterwards used as the Admiralty Office. The name is
+preserved in Derby Street. The Earl of Essex, Lord Halifax, and the
+Bishop of Peterborough were all residents in this row. In the middle of
+the seventeenth century the Duke of Manchester, Lord Privy Seal,
+resided here also. At present the row is very dreary. The building in
+which the Civil Service examinations are held stands on the east side.
+This was erected in 1784 for the Ordnance Board, then given to the Board
+of Control, and finally to the Civil Service Commissioners.
+
+The Victoria Embankment was begun in 1864, and completed about six years
+later. The wall is of brick, faced with granite and founded in Portland
+cement; it looks solid enough to withstand the tides of many a hundred
+years. The parapet is of granite, decorated by cast-iron standard lamps.
+St Stephen's Club is on the Embankment, close by Westminster Bridge
+Station. Further on is the huge building of the Police Commissioners,
+known as New Scotland Yard, built in 1890 from designs of Norman Shaw,
+R.A. It is the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police Force, and the
+architecture is singularly well in keeping with its object. The building
+is of red brick, with the tower floors cased in granite. It is in the
+form of a square, built round an inner courtyard, and has an immense
+bastion at each exterior angle. Besides the offices of the police force,
+the Lost Property Office, the Public Carriage Office, and the Criminal
+Investigation Department are here. The building communicates directly by
+telephone with the Horse Guards, Houses of Parliament, British Museum,
+and other public places, and has telegraphic communication with the
+twenty-two head-offices of the Metropolitan Police district. The
+Criminal Museum is open to the public under certain conditions.
+
+Parliament Street and King Street have now been merged in one, and
+together have become a part of Whitehall, so that the very names will
+soon be forgotten. Yet King Street was once the direct land route to the
+Abbey and Palace from the north, and its narrow span was perforce wide
+enough for all the pageantry of funerals, coronations, and other State
+shows that passed through it. It must be remembered that King Street
+formerly ran right up to the Abbey precincts, from which it was
+separated by a gate-house, called Highgate, built by Richard II.; but
+the street was subsequently shorn of a third of its length, over which
+now grows green grass in smooth lawns. The street was very picturesque:
+"The houses rose up three and four stories high; gabled all, with
+projecting fronts, story above story, the timbers of the fronts painted
+and gilt, some of them with escutcheons hung in front, the richly
+blazoned arms brightening the narrow way." But it was also dirty: "The
+roadway was rough and full of holes; a filthy stream ran down the
+middle, all kinds of refuse were lying about." But what mattered that?
+No one went on foot who could possibly go by boat, and there lay the
+great highway of the river close at hand. We have said processions went
+down this street; among them we may number all the coronation
+processions up to the time when Parliament Street was cut through
+numerous small courts and by-streets in the reign of George II. Lord
+Howard of Effingham set out from King Street to fight the Spanish
+Armada. Charles I. came this way from Whitehall Palace to his trial at
+Westminster; he went back by the same route condemned to death; and
+later Cromwell's funeral procession followed the same route. Cromwell
+himself narrowly escaped assassination in this very street, where he had
+a house north of Boar's Head Yard. The story is told that he was in his
+state carriage, but owing to the crowd and narrow street he was
+separated from his guard. Suddenly Lord Broghill, who was with him, saw
+the door of a cobbler's stall open and shut, while something glittered
+behind it. He therefore got out of the carriage and hammered at the door
+with his scabbard, when a tall man, armed with a sword, rushed out and
+made his escape.
+
+Anne Oldfield was apprenticed to a seamstress in King Street. Sir Henry
+Wootton also lived here; and Ben Jonson says that Spenser died here for
+"lack of bread," and that the Earl of Essex sent him "20 pieces" on
+hearing of his poverty, but the poet refused them, saying they came too
+late. Fletcher wrote of him: "Poorly, poor man, he lived; poorly, poor
+man, he died." But it seems hardly credible he was so badly off as to be
+destitute, for he was at the time a pensioner of the Crown. Thomas Carew
+the poet lived in King Street. Most of the taverns in Westminster seem
+to have clustered about this street; we have the names of the Bell, the
+Boar's Head, and the Rhenish Wine House still handed down as places of
+importance. There were innumerable courts and alleys opening out of King
+Street. On the west, south of Downing Street, were Axe Yard, Sea Alley,
+Bell Yard, Antelope Alley. Gardener's Lane ran parallel with Charles
+Street; here Hollar the engraver died in extreme poverty in 1677.
+
+At the north end of King Street stood a second gate, called the King's
+Gate, and sometimes the Cockpit Gate. It stood at the corner of what is
+now Downing Street. It had four domed towers; on the south side were
+pilasters and an entablature enriched with the double rose, the
+portcullis, and the royal arms. The gate was removed in 1723.
+
+In the year 1605 a solemn function took place in which the gate played a
+part:
+
+"On January 4, 1605, when Prince Charles, Duke of Albany, then only four
+years old, was to be created Knight of the Bath, his esquires, the
+Earls of Oxford and Essex, with eleven noblemen who were to share in the
+honour, tooke their lodgings in the first Gate-house going to
+King's-streete, where they were all after supper, at which they sat by
+degrees, a row on the one side, with the armes of every of them over the
+seate where he was placed; and lodged upon severall pallets in one
+chamber, with their armes likewise over them, having their bathes
+provided for them in the chamber underneath. The next morning they went
+about through the gallory downe into the Parke in their hermits' weedes,
+the musitions playing, and the heralds going before them into The Court,
+and so into the Chapell, and there after solemn courtesies, like to the
+Knights of the Garter, first to the Altar, and then to the Cloath of
+Estate, every one took his place in the stalles of the Quier" (Walcott,
+p. 58).
+
+Great George Street, made 1750--at the same time as the Bridge, Bridge
+Street, etc.--contains the Institution of Civil Engineers, a fine
+building, and at the west end is Delahay Street, once Duke Street, a
+very fashionable locality in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
+The poet Matthew Prior lived here, and Bishop Stillingfleet died here in
+1699. Duke Street Chapel, recently pulled down, was a very well-known
+place; it was originally part of a house, overlooking the park built by
+Judge Jeffreys, and the steps into the park at Chapel Place were made
+for Jeffreys' special convenience. In this wing of his house he
+sometimes heard cases, and it was later made into a chapel for private
+subscribers. Jeffreys' house was also used for a time as the Admiralty
+Office. In Delahay Street may be noted the west end of the Boar's Head
+Court, marking the spot where Cromwell's house stood. The space between
+Great George Street and Charles Street will soon be covered by
+Government offices, now in course of erection. When Parliament Street
+was made it effaced Clinker's Court, White Horse Yard, Lady's Alley,
+Stephen's Alley, Rhenish Wine Yard, Brewers' Yard, and Pensioners'
+Alley--some of the slums which had sprung up outside the Abbey
+precincts. Now Parliament Street in its turn is effaced, swallowed up in
+an extended Whitehall. King Street has been completely swept away, as
+one sweeps a row of crumbs from a cloth, but the part it played in the
+ancient history of Westminster is not yet forgotten. Undoubtedly the
+change could be justified: the thoroughfare is an important one, the
+view as now seen from the direction of Charing Cross one of the finest
+in the world; yet to gain it we have had to give, and one wonders
+sometimes whether the gain counterbalances the loss.
+
+Beyond the now vacant space on the north are the great group of
+Government offices, the Home and Colonial Offices facing Parliament
+Street, and behind them the India and the Foreign Offices. Above Downing
+Street there are others, the Privy Council Office and the Treasury.
+
+Downing Street is called after George Downing, an American Ambassador to
+the Hague under Cromwell and in Charles II.'s reign. John Boyle, Earl of
+Cork and Ossory and the last Earl of Oxford, lived here. Boswell
+occupied a house in Downing Street in 1763. But the street is chiefly
+associated with the official residence of the First Lord of the
+Treasury. Sir Robert Walpole accepted this house from George II. on
+condition it should belong to his successors in office for ever.
+
+On the east side, nearly opposite Downing Street, Richmond Terrace
+stands on the site of the Duke of Richmond's house, burnt down in 1790.
+Beyond Richmond Terrace is Montagu House, the town residence of the Duke
+of Buccleuch; the present building, which is of stone, in the Italian
+style, dates from the middle of the nineteenth century.
+
+Beyond, again, are Whitehall Gardens, on part of the site of the Privy
+Gardens, belonging to Whitehall Palace. There is now a row of fine
+houses overlooking the Embankment and the Gardens. One of these was the
+residence of Sir Robert Peel. A great gallery of sculpture formerly
+extended along this part of the Embankment. It was partly destroyed in
+1778, and wholly burnt down some years later. Gwydyr House, a sombre
+brick building with heavy stone facings over the central window and
+doorway is now occupied by the Charity Commission; it was built by Adam.
+Adjoining it is a new building with an angle tower and cupola; this
+belongs to the Royal United Service Institute, and next door to it is
+the banqueting-hall, now used as the United Service Museum. This is the
+only fragment left of Whitehall Palace, and is described in detail on p.
+88.
+
+The gatehouse known as the Holbein Gate stood across Whitehall a little
+south of the banqueting-hall. It was the third, and the most magnificent
+of those which previously stood in Westminster, and was built by Henry
+VIII. after the design of Holbein. It is said that one of the chambers
+was Holbein's studio. Later it was used as a State Paper Office, and was
+removed in 1750 to widen the street. It was intended to rebuild it in
+Windsor Park, but this design was never carried out; though various
+fragments of it were afterwards worked into other buildings.
+
+It is a pity that it vanished, for it would have been a fine relic of
+the Tudor times, with its high angular towers and its elaborate
+decoration. It had a large central entrance and two smaller doorways
+beneath the towers. The brickwork was in diaper pattern, and the front
+ornamented with busts in niches--altogether a very elaborate piece of
+work.
+
+
+WHITEHALL PALACE.
+
+Hubert de Burgh bequeathed a house on this site to the Dominican Friars
+in the thirteenth century, and they sold it to the Archbishop of York.
+For 250 years it was the town-house of the Archbishops of that see, and
+when Wolsey became Archbishop he entered into his official residence
+with the intention of beautifying and enlarging it greatly; he had a
+passion for display, a quality which perhaps cost him more than he was
+ever aware of. It was a dangerous thing to build or rebuild great
+mansions close to the palace of so jealous a King as Henry VIII. It was
+especially dangerous to do so at Whitehall, because, as has been already
+shown, the King lived at Westminster in a congeries of old buildings
+more or less dilapidated and inconvenient. Wolsey's fall was doubtless
+hastened by his master's covetousness, and after it, by agreement with
+the Chapter of York, the King had the house conveyed to himself. Up to
+this time it had been known as York Place, but was henceforth Whitehall.
+At Anne Boleyn's coronation in the Abbey, the Royal party came to and
+from Whitehall.
+
+    "You must no more call it York Place--that is past
+    For, since the Cardinal fell, that title's lost;
+    'Tis now the King's and call'd Whitehall."
+
+    '_King Henry VIII._,' Act IV.
+
+It must be remembered that there was then no Parliament Street, and the
+palace buildings occupied all the ground from Old Scotland Yard to
+Downing Street, from St. James's Park to the river. King Henry added
+very much to the land belonging to the palace, also to the buildings. He
+was fond of sport, and his additions show his tastes in this direction;
+he built a tennis-court, a tilt-yard,--on the site of the Horse
+Guards--a bowling-green, and a cockpit. The exact site of the cockpit
+has long been a matter of uncertainty, but it is now very generally
+believed that the entrance was just where the present Treasury entrance
+is.
+
+The palace does not seem to have been very homogeneous; it contained
+three courts, including Old Scotland Yard, in which was the Guard House.
+The King and Queen occupied the first court, where was what remained of
+old York House; here also was the great Hall, the Presence Chamber, and
+the Banqueting House. In the second court was the way to the Audience
+and Council Chambers, the Chapel, the offices of the Palace, and the
+Watergate.
+
+Henry VIII. died in this palace, and all the noble names of his and the
+succeeding reigns seem to haunt the site of the now vanished building.
+Here came Sir Thomas More, Erasmus and Thomas Cromwell; Holbein occupied
+a set of apartments, and received a salary of 200 florins for painting
+and decorating the rooms. Here are the ghosts of Cranmer, Katharine of
+Aragon, Jane Seymour, Latimer and Ridley; later we see a courtlier
+gathering--Cecil, Essex, Leicester, Raleigh, Drake, Walsingham, Philip
+Sydney. So true it is, the King doth make the Court. Some time later, in
+the reign of Charles II., we have a different class of men
+altogether--Monk, Clarendon, Sedley, Rochester, Wycherley, Dryden,
+Butler, Suckling, Carew. Here came crowds to be touched for the King's
+evil. Here the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth implored pardon at his
+uncle's feet in vain. Whitehall was also the home of the short-lived
+masque, a form of entertainment extremely costly.
+
+In 1691 a fire broke out, and all the buildings between the stone
+gallery and the river were burned down, and six years later another fire
+finished nearly all that the first had left.
+
+Inigo Jones prepared plans for a new palace that should eclipse the old,
+and his designs lacked not anything on the side of magnificence; if the
+palace had been built as he designed, it would have exceeded in
+splendour any building now in London, but he did not finish it. Like
+William Rufus with Westminster Palace, like many another architect, his
+plans demanded more than his allotted span of years, and before he could
+do more than put his imagination upon paper, and realize but a fragment
+of it in stone, he was called away from a world dependent on the "work
+of men's hands."
+
+The fragment he has left us still stands; it was to be the
+banqueting-hall, but no Royal banquets were held there; it was used as a
+Chapel Royal for many years, and is now the home of the United Service
+Museum. For the magnificent ceiling painted by Rubens we are indebted to
+Charles I., who also designed to have the walls painted by Vandyck, a
+still more costly operation, which was never carried out. The
+weathercock on the north end was put up by order of James II., so that
+he might see whether the wind was for or against the dreaded Dutch
+fleet. The building has one association never to be forgotten. On that
+black day when England shamed herself before the nations by spilling the
+blood of her King, the scaffold was erected before this building, though
+the exact site is unknown. It is believed that the window second from
+the north end is that in front of which it stood, and that the King
+stepped forth from a window in a small outbuilding on the north side; he
+came forth to die, the only innocent man in all that great crowd, who
+watched him suffer without raising a finger to save him. At that time
+the present windows were not glazed, but walled in. William III. talked
+of rebuilding the palace, but he died too soon. Queen Anne went to St.
+James's, and Whitehall was never rebuilt.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Horse Guards is almost directly opposite the Banqueting House, and
+stands on the site of an old house for the Gentlemen Pensioners who
+formed the guard when there was not a standing army in England. This
+itself superseded the tilt-yard built by King Henry VIII., though the
+actual yard was the wide space at the back of the building, which still
+witnesses the trooping of the colours and other ceremonies on state
+occasions. It is interesting to notice that the words "Tilt-yard Guards"
+still occur in the regulations hung up inside the sentry-boxes where the
+magnificent sentries keep guard, to the wonder and admiration of every
+small boy who passes.
+
+The whole of St. James's Park is now included in the City of
+Westminster, but only the south-east part is in the parish of St.
+Margaret's, which we are now considering. The remainder will be found
+described in the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, which is included
+in the electoral district of the Strand in the same series. In "The
+Strand District" there are also full accounts of St. James's Palace, and
+of Buckingham Palace.
+
+The spot now known as St. James's Park was once a dismal marshy field.
+In 1531 Henry VIII. obtained some of the land from the Abbey of
+Westminster, and in the following year he proceeded to erect what is now
+St. James's Palace, on the site of a former leper hospital. The park,
+however, seems to have remained in a desolate condition until the reign
+of James I., who took a great interest in it, and established a
+menagerie here which he often visited. The popularity of the park
+continued throughout the Stuart period. Charles II. after the
+Restoration employed a Frenchman, Le Nôtre, to lay out the grounds, and
+under his advice the canal was formed from the chain of pools that
+spread across the low-lying ground, and also a decoy, where ducks and
+wildfowl resorted. Rosamund's Pond, an oblong pool, lay at the
+south-west end of the canal. Of the origin of this name there is no
+record, though Rosamund's land is mentioned as early as 1531. A new Mall
+was laid out soon after the Restoration, and preserved with great care.
+Powdered cockleshells were sprinkled over the earth to keep it firm. As
+the game of pall-mall went out of fashion the Mall became a promenade,
+and was the resort of the Court. A pheasant-walk was also formed where
+Marlborough House now stands. There are two ancient views of the park
+extant, in one of which the heads of Cromwell, Ireton and Bradshaw stuck
+upon poles at the end of Westminster Hall are visible, and in the other,
+a figure walking in the foreground is supposed to be Charles II.
+himself. The park was not opened to the public at this time, but those
+whose houses bordered it appear to have been allowed free entrance.
+Milton, the poet, certainly strolled here from his house in Petty
+France.
+
+Charles II. himself frequently used it, and kept his pet animals here,
+and the lords and ladies of his time made it their fashionable
+rendezvous. The park is mentioned constantly by Pepys and Evelyn. A
+couple of oaks planted by Charles from acorns brought from Boscobel
+survived until 1833, when they were blown down.
+
+The origin of the name of Birdcage Walk has been disputed. It has been
+derived from "boccage," meaning avenue; another account says it was from
+the bird-cages of the King's aviary, which were hung in the trees. This
+seems more probable.
+
+For many reigns St. James's Park continued to be a fashionable place of
+resort. In 1770 Rosamund's Pond was filled up, and the moat round Duck
+Island was filled in. In 1779 a gentleman was killed in a duel in the
+park.
+
+In 1827-29 the park was finally laid out and the canal converted into a
+piece of ornamental water under the superintendence of Nash. In 1857 the
+lake was cleared out to a uniform depth of four feet and the present
+bridge erected, and the park became something like what we see at the
+present time. The vicinity of Marlborough House and Buckingham Palace
+still give it a certain distinction, but it cannot be called in any
+sense fashionable, as it was in the later Stuart times. And in the midst
+of the park we must take leave of our present district, having rambled
+within its borders east and west, north and south, and having met in the
+process the ghosts of kings and queens, of statesmen and authors, of men
+of the Court and men of the Church, those who have made history in the
+past and laid the foundations for the glory of the future.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abbey, The, 45
+
+Almonry, 34, 36
+
+Almshouses:
+   Butler's, 8, 29
+   Henry VII.'s, 37
+   Hill's, 8
+   Palmer's, 8, 29
+   Vandon's, 29
+
+Antelope Alley, 80
+
+Aquarium, The, 34
+
+Artillery Row, 6
+
+Ashburnham House, 65
+
+Atterbury, Bishop, 65
+
+Axe Yard, 80
+
+
+Banqueting-hall, 88
+
+Barton Street, 20
+
+Bell Yard, 80
+
+Bentham, Jeremy, 14, 29, 30, 32
+
+Betterton, Thomas, 34
+
+Big Ben, 75
+
+Birdcage Walk, 30, 91
+
+Black Horse Yard, 33
+
+Blood, Colonel, 18
+
+Boar's Head Court, 82
+
+Boswell, 83
+
+Bowring, Sir John, 33
+
+Brewers' Yard, 82
+
+Bridewell, 5
+
+Bridge Street, 42, 75
+
+Broad and Little Sanctuary, 42
+
+Broadway, The, 33
+
+Burke, Edmund, 34, 39
+
+Busby, Dr., 64
+
+
+Cannon Row, 76
+
+Capel, Lord, 69
+
+Carew, Thomas, 80
+
+Castle Lane, 26
+
+Caxton, 35
+
+Caxton Street, 27
+
+Chapel Street, 27
+
+Charles I., 73, 79, 88
+
+Charles II., 90
+
+Chaucer, Geoffrey, 69
+
+Churches:
+   St. Ann's Chapel, 37
+   Cathedral (Roman Catholic), 4
+   Chapel Royal, 88
+   Christ Church, 28
+   Duke Street Chapel, 81
+   Guards' Chapel, 31
+   St. John the Evangelist, 17
+   St. Margaret's, 57
+   St. Mary's, 9
+   St. Matthew's, 23
+   New Chapel, 28
+   St. Stephen's, 8
+   St. Stephen's Chapel, 70
+   Westminster Abbey, 45
+   Westminster Chapel, 26
+
+Church House, 22
+
+Church Street, 17
+
+Clinker's Court, 82
+
+"Clochard," 67
+
+Clock Tower, 75
+
+Cockpit, 86
+
+Cock public-house, 34
+
+Commons, The, 73
+
+Cowley, 65
+
+Cowper, Thomas, 65
+
+Cromwell, 79
+
+
+Dacre, Lady, 26
+
+Delahay Street, 81
+
+Derby, Earl of, 76
+
+Derwentwater, Lord, 73
+
+Dorset, Marquis of, 76
+
+Douglas, Earl, 69
+
+Douglas, Sir William, 69
+
+Douglas Street, 9
+
+Downing, George, 83
+
+Downing Street, 83
+
+Dryden, 64, 65
+
+Duck Lane, 23, 27
+
+Duke Street, 81
+
+
+Edward V., 42
+
+Eliot, Sir John, 39
+
+Essex, Earl of, 76
+
+
+Free Library, 21, 34
+
+
+Gardener's Lane, 43, 80
+
+Gatehouse, 37
+
+Gibbon, 20, 65
+
+Glover, 25
+
+Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, 39
+
+Great College Street, 20
+
+Great George Street, 76, 81
+
+Great Peter Street, 23
+
+Great Queen Street, 33
+
+Great St. Ann's Lane, 19, 23
+
+Great Smith Street, 21
+
+Greycoat Place, 6
+
+Grosvenor Road, 12
+
+Guildhall, 41
+
+Gwydyr House, 84
+
+
+Halifax, Lord, 76
+
+Hamilton, Duke of, 69
+
+Hampden, 39
+
+Hastings, Warren, 65, 73
+
+Hazlitt, 29
+
+Herrick, 23
+
+High Gate, 39, 78
+
+Holbein Gate, 84
+
+Holland, Earl of, 69
+
+Hollar, the engraver, 80
+
+Home and Colonial Offices, 83
+
+Horseferry Road, 10, 16
+
+Horse Guards, 89
+
+Hospitals:
+   Coldstream Guards, 9
+   Emanuel, 26
+   Grenadier Guards, 8
+   Grosvenor Hospital for Women & Children, 9
+   Scots Guards, 12
+   Westminster, 40
+
+Houses of Parliament, 67
+
+Howard, 14
+
+Howard of Effingham, Lord, 78
+
+Hudson, Sir Jeffrey, 39
+
+
+India and Foreign Offices, 83
+
+Institution of Civil Engineers, 81
+
+
+Jeffreys, Judge, 81
+
+John, King of France, 73
+
+Jonson, Ben, 70
+
+
+Keats, 20, 21
+
+Kenmure, Lord, 73
+
+Kennet, Dr. White, 25
+
+King's Gate, 80
+
+King's House, 70
+
+King's slaughter-house, 20
+
+King Street, 42, 78
+
+
+Lady's Alley, 82
+
+Leighton, Alexander, 69
+
+Lewisham Street, 40
+
+Liddell, 65
+
+Lilly, the astrologer, 39
+
+Litlington, Abbot, 16, 20, 64
+
+Little Chapel Street, 29
+
+Little College Street, 20
+
+Little George Street, 42
+
+Little Peter Street, 23
+
+Little Queen Street, 33
+
+Little Smith Street, 18
+
+Long Ditch, 40, 42
+
+Long Lane, 43
+
+Lovelace, Colonel, 38
+
+Lovelace, Thomas, 69
+
+
+Manchester, Duke of, 77
+
+Marlborough House, 90
+
+Marsham Street, 18
+
+Marvell, Andrew, 29
+
+Millbank Penitentiary, 14
+
+Millbank Street, 16
+
+Mill, James, 33
+
+Milton, 29, 91
+
+Montagu House, 83
+
+Monuments. _See Abbey_
+
+More, Sir Thomas, 73
+
+
+New Palace Yard, 67
+
+New Scotland Yard, 77
+
+
+Oates, Titus, 39, 69
+
+Oldfield, Anne, 79
+
+Old Palace Yard, 69
+
+Old Pye Street, 22
+
+Old Rochester Row, 6
+
+Orchard Street, 22
+
+
+Page, Robert, 68
+
+Palace Hotel, 34
+
+Palmer's Passage, 29
+
+Palmer's Village, 4
+
+Parker Street, 40
+
+Parliament Street, 78, 82
+
+Peabody's Buildings, 22
+
+Peel, Sir Robert, 83
+
+Pensioners' Alley, 82
+
+Pest-houses, 12
+
+Peterborough, Bishop of, 76
+
+Peterborough House, 15
+
+Petty France, 29
+
+Prince's Street, 40
+
+Prior, Matthew, 81
+
+Privy Council Office, 83
+
+Privy Gardens, 83
+
+Public Baths and Wash-houses, 22
+
+Purcell, 19, 23
+
+Pye, Sir Robert, 22
+
+Pye Street, 22
+
+
+Queen Anne's Bounty Office, 22
+
+Queen Anne's Gate, 32
+
+Queen Anne's Mansions, 30, 32
+
+Queen Square, 32
+
+
+Raleigh, Sir Walter, 37
+
+Rhenish Wine Yard, 82
+
+Richmond Terrace, 83
+
+Rochester Row, 7
+
+Romney Street, 18
+
+Royal Architectural Museum, 19
+
+Royal Maundy, 36
+
+Royal United Service Institute, 84
+
+Russell, Lord John, 65
+
+
+Sanctuary, The, 41
+
+Sanquire, Lord, 69
+
+Savage, Richard, 39
+
+Schools:
+   Bluecoat, 27
+   Greencoat, 5
+   Greycoat, 6
+   Medical, 28
+   St. Andrew's, 25
+   United Westminster, 5, 24
+   Westminster, 62
+
+Sea Alley, 80
+
+Seven Bishops, 73
+
+Smith Square, 18
+
+Southerne, Thomas, 21
+
+Spenser, 79
+
+Stafford Place, 25
+
+Stafford, Viscount, 25
+
+Stanley, Dean, 21
+
+St. Ann's Street, 23
+
+Stationary Office, 40
+
+Steele, Sir Richard, 21
+
+Stephen's Alley, 82
+
+St. Ermin's Mansions, 28
+
+St. James's Park, 89
+
+St. John's Burial-ground, 10
+
+St. John's snuff-box, 18
+
+St. Margaret's loving-cup, 61
+
+St. Matthew's Street, 23
+
+Stourton Street, 24
+
+Strutton Ground, 23
+
+St. Stephen's Club, 77
+
+Stubbs, John, 68
+
+Sussex, Earl of, 76
+
+
+Tart Hall, 25
+
+Tate Gallery, 13
+
+Taverns, 80
+
+Thieving Lane, 39, 42
+
+Thorne, Mr., 20
+
+Thorney, the Isle of Bramble, 43, 44
+
+Tothill Fields, 9
+
+Tothill Fields Prison, 5
+
+Tothill Street, 19, 34
+
+Town Hall, 28
+
+Treasury, 83, 86
+
+Tufton Street, 18
+
+Turpin, Dick, 33
+
+
+Union Street, 43
+
+
+Vandon, Cornelius, 29
+
+Vauxhall Bridge Road, 12
+
+Victoria Embankment, 77
+
+Victoria Public Garden, 21
+
+Victoria Street, 4
+
+Victoria Tower, 74
+
+Vincent Square, 9
+
+
+Walcott, 20
+
+Waller, Sir William, 29
+
+Walpole, Sir Robert, 83
+
+Warbeck, Perkin, 68
+
+Watney's Brewery, 24
+
+Wellington Barracks, 30
+
+Wesley, Charles, 65
+
+Wesley, John, 22
+
+Westminster Bridge Station, 77
+
+Westminster Hall, 72
+
+_Westminster Review_, 33
+
+Westminster School, 62
+
+Whitehall Gardens, 83
+
+Whitehall Palace, 85
+
+White Horse Yard, 82
+
+Wilberforce, 65
+
+Woffington, Peg, 33
+
+Wolsey, 85
+
+Woolstaple, 75
+
+Wootton, Sir Henry, 79
+
+
+York, Archbishop of, 85
+
+York Street, 29
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration: WESTMINSTER DISTRICT
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Westminster, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton and A. Murray Smith
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTMINSTER ***
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+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Westminster, by Sir Walter Besant and G. E. Mitton.
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Westminster, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton and A. Murray Smith
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Westminster
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Sir Walter Besant
+        Geraldine Edith Mitton
+        A. Murray Smith
+
+Release Date: May 31, 2007 [EBook #21648]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTMINSTER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 80px;">
+<img src="images/spine.jpg" width="80" height="600" alt="Spine" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 422px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="422" height="600" alt="Front Cover" title="" />
+</div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h1><i>THE FASCINATION<br />
+OF LONDON</i><br />
+<br />
+WESTMINSTER</h1>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3><i>IN THIS SERIES.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="center">Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net each.</p>
+
+<p class='center'><b>WESTMINSTER.</b></p>
+
+<p class='center'>By Sir <span class="smcap">Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+<p class='center'><b>THE STRAND DISTRICT.</b></p>
+
+<p class='center'>By Sir <span class="smcap">Walter Besant</span> and <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>.</p>
+
+<p class='center'><b>HAMPSTEAD.</b></p>
+<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by Sir <span class="smcap">Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+<p class='center'><b>CHELSEA.</b></p>
+<p class='center'>By <span class="smcap">G. E. Mitton</span>. Edited by Sir <span class="smcap">Walter Besant</span>.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/image_001.jpg" width="800" height="547" alt="WHITEHALL IN 1775." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WHITEHALL IN 1775.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 394px;">
+<img src="images/image_002.jpg" width="394" height="600" alt="The Fascination of
+London
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+AND
+G. E. MITTON
+
+
+With a Chapter on the Abbey
+by Mrs. A. Murray Smith
+
+
+LONDON
+ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK
+1902" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>The Fascination of
+London</h2>
+
+<h1>WESTMINSTER</h1>
+
+<p class="center">BY<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">SIR WALTER BESANT</span><br />
+AND<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">G. E. MITTON</span></p>
+
+
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">With a Chapter on the Abbey<br />
+by Mrs. A. Murray Smith</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">LONDON<br />
+ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK<br />
+1902<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFATORY_NOTE" id="PREFATORY_NOTE"></a>PREFATORY NOTE</h2>
+
+
+<p>A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past&mdash;this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.</p>
+
+<p>As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."</p>
+
+<p>He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace,
+but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He
+died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes
+on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of
+the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city
+practically unique, and exception<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>ally interesting, compiled by one who
+had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to
+make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir
+Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting,"
+will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken
+the publication of the Survey.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and
+systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the
+history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very
+original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the
+keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its
+issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is
+proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and
+publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local
+inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and
+the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose
+Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for
+publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span> of London&mdash;that is to say, the continuity of her past history
+with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.</p>
+
+<p style="text-align:right;">
+G. E. M.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PREFATORY_NOTE">Prefatory Note</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#PREFATORY_NOTE">v</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PART_I">PART I</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>South of Victoria Street</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PART_II">PART II</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>North of Victoria Street</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PART_III">PART III</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Heart of Westminster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><a href="#map"><i>Map at end of Volume.</i></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h1>WESTMINSTER</h1>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a>PART I<br />
+<br />
+SOUTH OF VICTORIA STREET.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The word Westminster used in the title does not mean that city which has
+its boundaries stretching from Oxford Street to the river, from the
+Broad Walk, Kensington Gardens, to Temple Bar. A city which embraces the
+parishes of St. George's, Hanover Square; St. James's, Piccadilly; St.
+Anne's, Soho; St. Paul's, Covent Garden; St. Clement Danes; St. Mary le
+Strand, etc.; and which claims to be older even than London, dating its
+first charter from the reign of King Edgar. But, rather, Westminster in
+its colloquial sense, that part of the city which lies within the
+parishes of St. Margaret and St. John. When anyone says, 'I am going to
+Westminster,' or, 'I am staying in Westminster,' it is this district
+that he means to indicate.</p>
+
+<p>The parishes of St. Margaret and St. John include the land bounded on
+one side by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> river; on another by a line running through the Horse
+Guards and diagonally across St. James's Park to Buckingham Gate; and on
+the third by an irregular line which crosses Victoria Street to the west
+of Carlisle Place, and subsequently cuts across the Vauxhall Bridge Road
+near Francis Street, and, continuing at a slight angle to the course of
+the Bridge Road, strikes the river at a spot beyond the gasworks between
+Pulford Terrace and Bessborough Place. There is also another piece of
+land belonging to St. Margaret's parish; this lies detached, and
+includes part of Kensington Gardens and the Round Pond; but it is only
+mentioned to show it has not been overlooked, for the present account
+will not deal with it. The triangular space roughly indicated above is
+sufficient for one ramble.</p>
+
+<p>Within this space stand, and have stood, so many magnificent buildings
+closely connected with the annals of England that Westminster may well
+claim to occupy a unique place in the history of the nation. The effects
+of two such buildings as the Abbey and Palace upon its population were
+striking and unique.</p>
+
+<p>The right of sanctuary possessed by the Abbey drew thieves, villains,
+and rogues of all kinds to its precincts. The Court drew to the Palace a
+crowd of hangers-on, attendants, artificers, work-people, etc. When the
+Court was migratory this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> great horde swept over Westminster at
+intervals like a wave, and made a floating population. In the days of
+"touching" for "King's evil," when the Court was held at Whitehall, vast
+crowds of diseased persons gathered to Westminster to be touched. In
+Charles II.'s time weekly sittings were appointed at which the number of
+applicants was not to exceed 200. Between 1660-64, 23,601 persons were
+"touched." Later, when the roads were still too bad to be traversed
+without danger, many of the members of Parliament lodged in Westminster
+while the House was sitting. Therefore, from the earliest date, when
+bands of travellers and merchants came down the great north road, and
+passed through the marshes of Westminster to the ferry, until the
+beginning of the present century, there has always been a floating
+element mingling with the stationary inhabitants of the parishes.</p>
+
+<p>The history of Westminster itself is entwined with these two great
+foundations, the Abbey and the Palace, which will be found described in
+detail respectively at pp. <a href="#Page_45">45</a> and <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</p>
+
+
+<h3>DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT.</h3>
+
+<p>The perambulation of Westminster, undertaken street by street, differs
+from that made at Chelsea or elsewhere by reason of the great buildings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+aforementioned, which are centres of interest and require particular
+notice. These will be dealt with as they occur, and so interesting are
+they that they cause the street associations to sink into a position of
+secondary importance.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning at the least interesting end of Westminster&mdash;that is to say,
+the west end of Victoria Street&mdash;there are not many objects of interest
+apparent. Victoria Street was in 1852 cut through nests of alleys and
+dirty courts, including a colony of almshouses, cottages, chapel, and
+school, known as Palmer's Village. The solid uniform buildings on either
+side of the street have a very sombre aspect; they are mainly used for
+offices. There is still some waste ground lying to the south of Victoria
+Street, in spite of the great Roman Catholic Cathedral, begun in 1895,
+which covers a vast area. The material is red brick with facings of
+stone, and the style Byzantine, the model set being the "early Christian
+basilica in its plenitude." The high campanile tower, which is already
+seen all over London, is a striking feature in a building quite
+dissimilar from those to which we in England are accustomed. The great
+entrance at the west end has an arch of forty feet span, and encloses
+three doorways, of which the central one is only to be used on solemn
+occasions by the Archbishop. One feature of the interior decoration will
+be the mosaic pictures in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> the marble panels. The building is still
+incomplete, and not open to the public. It stands on the site of Tothill
+Fields Prison, which was considered to be one of the finest specimens of
+brickwork in the country, and cost the nation &pound;200,000, but has now
+completely vanished. It resembled a fortress; the entrance, which stood
+in Francis Street, was composed of massive granite blocks, and had a
+portcullis. The prison took the place of a Bridewell or House of
+Correction near, built in 1622; but in spite of the vast sum of money
+spent upon it, it lasted only twenty years (1834-54).</p>
+
+<p>The fire-station and Western District Post-Office also occupy part of
+the same site. The extension of the Army and Navy Stores stands on the
+site of the Greencoat School, demolished in 1877. Certain gentlemen
+founded this school; in Charles I.'s reign it was constituted "a body
+politic and corporate," and the seal bears date 1636. The lads wore a
+long green skirt, bound round with a red girdle. In 1874, when the
+United Westminster Schools were formed from the amalgamation of the
+various school charities of Westminster, the work was begun here, but
+three years later the boys were removed to the new buildings in Palace
+Street. The old school buildings were very picturesque. They stood round
+a quadrangle, and the Master's house faced the entrance, and was
+decorated with a bust of King<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> Charles and the royal arms. In the
+wainscoted board-room hung portraits of King Charles I. by Vandyck, and
+King Charles II. by Lely.</p>
+
+<p>The name of Artillery Row is connected with the artillery practice at
+the butts, which stood near here in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. At the
+end, if we turn to the left, we come into Old Rochester Row, and so to
+Greycoat Place, in which stands the Greycoat Hospital. This building,
+one of the few old ones left in the parish, has a red-tiled roof and
+dormer windows, projecting eaves and heavy window-frames. Two wings
+enclose a courtyard, which is below the level of the road. Above the
+central porch, in niches, are the figures of a boy and girl in the
+old-fashioned Greycoat garb. In the centre are the Royal arms of Queen
+Anne, and a turret with clock and vane surmounts the roof.</p>
+
+<p>This hospital was founded in 1698 for the education of seventy poor boys
+and forty poor girls. In 1706, by letters patent of Queen Anne, the
+trustees were constituted a body 'politic and corporate.' In this year
+also the school was established in the present quaint building, which
+had been a workhouse, perhaps that referred to in the vestry reports of
+1664 as the "new workhouse in Tuttle ffields."</p>
+
+<p>The boys then wore a long gray skirt and girdle, something similar to
+the Christ's Hospital uniform,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> and the girls a dress of gray. The
+hospital originated in the charity of the parishioners. Various
+additions have since been made to the building, and class-rooms have
+been added. The older class-rooms and board-room are wainscoted. In the
+latter are oil-paintings of Queen Anne, Bishops Compton and Smalridge
+(of Bristol), and various governors. The corporate seal represents two
+male figures tending a young sapling, a reference to 1 Cor. vii. 8. An
+old organ, contemporary with the date of the establishment, and a
+massive Bible and Prayer-Book, are among the most interesting relics.
+The latter, dated 1706, contains the "Prayer for the Healing" at the
+King's touch.</p>
+
+<p>The hospital is a very wealthy foundation, and is able to support the
+strain of its immense expenses without difficulty. The governors have
+recently erected a row of red-brick flats to the west of the garden,
+which will further augment the income. The garden is charming with
+flower-beds and grass plots, while the vine and the ampelopsis climb
+over the old building.</p>
+
+<p>Rochester Row owes its name to the connection of the See of Rochester
+with the Deanery of Westminster, which continued through nine successive
+incumbencies. The row was considered by the Dean and Chapter as a
+private thoroughfare until the beginning of the present century, but
+they had no reason to be proud of it. A filthy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> ditch caused much
+complaint; even in 1837 the state of the row was described as "shameful
+and dangerous." At the north-east end stood the parish pound-house. St.
+Stephen's Church and Schools are handsome, in a decorated Gothic style,
+and were built in 1847 by Ferrey, at the cost of the Baroness
+Burdett-Coutts. The spire rises to a height of 200 feet.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately opposite, two neat rows of almshouses, in red brick, face
+one another; on the exterior wall of each wing is the half-length effigy
+of a man in a niche. Beneath that on the northern wing is the
+inscription: "Mr. Emery Hill, late of the parish of St. Margaret's,
+Westminster, founded these almshouses Anno Domini 1708. Christian
+Reader, in Hopes of thy Assistance." On each side similar inscriptions
+commemorate donations.</p>
+
+<p>On the southern wing the slab beneath the figure bears the words: "Rev.
+James Palmer founded almshouses in Palmer's Passage for six poor old men
+and six poor old women Anno Domini 1856; re-erected here, 1881"; and a
+further record: "Mr. Nicholas Butler founded the almshouses in Little
+Chapel Street, near Palmer's Passage, for two of the most ancient
+couples of the best repute, Anno Domini 1675; re-erected here 1881."
+These are the Westminster United Almshouses. They were consolidated by
+an order<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> of the Charity Commission, dated July 11, 1879. The Grenadier
+Guards Hospital is further down the row on the same side.</p>
+
+<p>Vincent Square is the Westminster School playground. This space, of
+about ten acres of land, has been the subject of much dispute between
+the Dean and Chapter and the parish. It was first marked out as a
+playground in 1810, but not enclosed by railings until 1842. Dr.
+Vincent, Headmaster of the school and formerly Dean of Westminster, took
+the lead in the matter, and the enclosure is therefore named after him.
+The ground is now levelled, and forms magnificent playing-fields; from
+the south end there is a fine view of many-towered Westminster. The
+hospital of the Coldstream Guards is in one corner of the Square, and
+next to it the Westminster Police Court. St. Mary's Church and Schools
+are on the south side. The Grosvenor Hospital for Women and Children is
+in Douglas Street close by. This originated in a dispensary in 1865.</p>
+
+<p>The ground in the parish already traversed corresponds roughly with that
+occupied by the once well-known Tothill Fields. Older writers call this
+indifferently Tuthill, Totehill, Tootehill, but more generally Tuttle.
+In Timbs' "London and Westminster" we read: "The name of Tot is the old
+British word Tent (the German Tulsio), god of wayfarers and
+merchants.... Sacred stones<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> were set up on heights, hence called
+Tothills." If ever there were a hill at Tothill Fields, it must have
+been a very slight one, and in this case it may have been carted away to
+raise the level elsewhere. We know that St. John's burial-ground was
+twice covered with three feet of soil, and in the parish accounts we
+read of gravel being carted from Tothill. The greater part of the ground
+in any case can have been only low-lying, for large marshy pools
+remained until comparatively recent times, one of which was known as the
+Scholars' Pond. Dean Stanley has aptly termed these fields the
+Smithfield of West London. Here everything took place which required an
+open space&mdash;combats, tournaments, and fairs.</p>
+
+<p>In a map of the middle of the eighteenth century we see a few scattered
+houses lying to the south of Horseferry Road just below the bend, and
+Rochester Row stretching like an arm out into the open ground. Two of
+the great marshy pools are also marked. If all accounts are to be
+believed, this spot was noted for its fertility and the beauty of its
+wild-flowers. From Strype's Survey we learn that the fields supplied
+London and Westminster with "asparagus, artichokes, cauliflowers and
+musk melons." The author of "Parochial Memorials" says that the names of
+Orchard Street, Pear Street and Vine Street are reminiscent of the
+cultivation of fruit in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> Westminster, but these names more probably have
+reference to the Abbot's garden. Walcott says that Tothill Fields,
+before the Statute of Restraints, was considered to be within the limits
+of the sanctuary of the Abbey. Stow gives a long and minute account of a
+trial by battle held here. One of the earliest recorded tournaments held
+in these fields was at the coronation of Queen Eleanor in 1226.</p>
+
+<p>A great fair held in the fields in 1248 was a failure. All the shops and
+places of merchandise were shut during the fifteen days that it lasted,
+by the King's command, but the wind and rain ruined the project.</p>
+
+<p>In 1256 John Mansell, the King's Counsellor and a priest, entertained
+the Kings and Queens of England and Scotland and so many Dukes, Lords,
+and Barons, at Westminster that he had not room for them in his own
+house, but set up tents and pavilions in Tothill.</p>
+
+<p>In 1441 "was the fighting at the Tothill between two thefes, a pelour
+and a defendant; the pelour hadde the field, and victory of the
+defendour withinne three strokes."</p>
+
+<p>Both the armies of the Royalists and the Commonwealth were at different
+times paraded in these fields; of the latter, 14,000 men were here at
+one time. During 1851-52 Scottish prisoners were brought to Tothill, and
+many died there, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> the churchwardens' accounts show. In the latter
+year we read the entry: "Paid to Thomas Wright for 67 load of soyle laid
+on the graves in Tuthill Fields wherein 1,200 Scotch prisoners (taken at
+the fight at Worcester) were buried."</p>
+
+<p>It was fifteen years later, in the time of the Great Plague, that the
+pesthouses came into full use, for we read in the parish records July
+14, 1665, "that the Churchwardens doe forthwith proceed to the making of
+an additional Provision for the reception of the Poore visited of the
+Plague, at the Pesthouse in Tuttle ffieldes." The first two cases of
+this terrible visitation occurred in Westminster, and during the
+sorrowful months that followed, in place of feasting and pageantry, the
+fields were the theatre for scenes of horror and death. The pesthouses
+were still standing in 1832.</p>
+
+<p>There was formerly a "maze" in Tothill Fields, which is shown in a print
+from an engraving by Hollar taken about 1650.</p>
+
+<p>Vauxhall Bridge Road was cut through part of the site belonging to the
+old Millbank Penitentiary. The traffic to the famous Vauxhall Gardens on
+the other side of the river once made this a very crowded thoroughfare;
+at present it is extremely dreary. The Scots Guards Hospital is on the
+west side.</p>
+
+<p>Turning to the left at the end in the Grosvenor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> Road, we soon come to
+the Tate Gallery of British Art, the magnificent gift of Sir Henry Tate
+to the nation. Besides the building, the founder gave sixty-five
+pictures to form the nucleus of a collection. This is said to be the
+first picture-gallery erected in England complete in itself; the
+architect is Sydney Smith, F.R.I.B.A., and the style adopted is a Free
+Classic, Roman with Greek feeling in the mouldings and decorations.
+There is a fine portico of six Corinthian columns terminating in a
+pediment, with the figure of Britannia at the central apex, and the lion
+and unicorn at each end. The basement, of rusticated stone, ten feet
+high, runs round the principal elevation. A broad flight of steps leads
+to the central entrance. The front elevation is about 290 feet in
+length. The vestibule immediately within the principal door leads into
+an octagonal sculpture hall, top-lighted by a glass dome. There are
+besides five picture-galleries, also top-lighted. The pictures, which
+include the work of the most famous British artists, are nearly all
+labelled with the titles and artists' names, so a catalogue is
+superfluous. The collection includes the pictures purchased by the
+Chantrey Bequest, also a gift from G. F. Watts, R.A., of twenty-three of
+his own works. The gallery is open from ten to six, and on Sundays in
+summer after two o'clock. Thursdays and Fridays are students' days.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The gallery stands on the site of the old Millbank Penitentiary, for the
+scheme of which Howard the reformer was originally responsible. He was
+annoyed by the rejection of the site he advocated, however, and
+afterwards withdrew from the project altogether. Wandsworth Fields and
+Battersea Rise were both discussed as possible sites, but were
+eventually abandoned in favour of Millbank. Jeremy Bentham, who
+advocated new methods in the treatment of prisoners, gained a contract
+from the Government for the erection and management of the new prison.
+He, however, greatly exceeded the terms of his contract, and finally
+withdrew, and supervisors were appointed. The prison was a six-rayed
+building with a chapel in the centre. Each ray was pentagonal in shape,
+and had three towers on its exterior angles. The whole was surrounded by
+an octagonal wall overlooking a moat. At the closing of the prison in
+Tothill Fields it became the sole Metropolitan prison for females, "just
+as," says Major Griffiths, "it was the sole reformatory for promising
+criminals, the first receptacle for military prisoners, the great depot
+for convicts <i>en route</i> for the antipodes."</p>
+
+<p>In 1843 it was called a penitentiary instead of a prison. Gradually, as
+new methods of prison architecture were evolved, Millbank was recognised
+as cumbersome and inadequate. It was doomed for many years before its
+demolition, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> now, like the prison of Tothill Fields, has vanished.
+Even the convicts' burial-ground at the back of the Tate Gallery is
+nearly covered with County Council industrial dwellings.</p>
+
+<p>Further northward in the Grosvenor Road, Peterborough House once stood,
+facing the river, and this was at one time called "the last house in
+Westminster." It was built by the first Earl of Peterborough, and
+retained his name until 1735, when it passed to Alexander Davis of
+Ebury, whose only daughter and heiress had married Sir Thomas Grosvenor.
+It was by this marriage that the great London property came into the
+possession of the Grosvenor (Westminster) family. The house was rebuilt,
+and renamed Grosvenor House. Strype says: "The Earl of Peterborough's
+house with a large courtyard before it, and a fine garden behind, but
+its situation is but bleak in winter and not over healthful, as being
+too near the low meadows on the south and west parts." The house was
+finally demolished in 1809.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond, in the direction of the Houses of Parliament, there are several
+interesting old houses, of which the best specimens are Nos. 8 and 9,
+offices of the London Road Car Company, and No. 10. In the first a
+well-furnished ceiling proclaims an ancient drawing-room; in the second
+panelled walls and a spiral staircase set off a fine hall. This house
+has a beautiful doorway of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> old scallop-shell pattern, with cherubs'
+heads and ornamental brackets decorating it. In the third house a
+ceiling is handsomely finished with dental mouldings, and the edges of
+the panels are all carved. A mantelpiece of white marble is very fine,
+and of great height and solidity, with a female face as the keystone.</p>
+
+<p>From Lambeth Bridge the Horseferry Road leads westward. This was the
+main track to the ferry in ancient days, and as the ferry was the only
+one on the Thames at London, it was consequently of great importance. It
+was here that James II. crossed after escaping from Whitehall by night,
+and from his boat he threw the Great Seal into the river. Horseferry
+Road is strictly utilitarian, and not beautiful; it passes by gasworks,
+a Roman Catholic church, Wesleyan chapel, Normal Institute and Training
+College, all of the present century. North of it Grosvenor Road becomes
+Millbank Street. The Abbot's watermill stood at the end of College
+Street (further north), and was turned by the stream which still flows
+beneath the roadway. In an old survey a mill is marked on this spot, and
+is supposed to have been built by the same Abbot Litlington who built
+the wall in College Street (1362-1386). It was still standing in 1644,
+and mention is made of it at that date in the parish books. The bank was
+a long strip of raised earth,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> extending from here to the site of
+Peterborough House. Strype mentions "the Millbank" as a "certain parcel
+of land valued in Edward VI.'s time at 58 shillings, and given in the
+third of his reign" to one Joanna Smith for "services rendered."</p>
+
+<p>Church Street (left) leads into Smith Square. Here stands the Church of
+St. John the Evangelist. This was the second of Queen Anne's fifty
+churches built by imposing a duty on coals and culm brought into the
+Port of London. The new district was formed in 1723, but the
+consecration ceremony did not take place until June 20, 1728. The
+architect was Archer, a pupil of Sir John Vanbrugh's, and the style,
+which is very peculiar, has been described as Doric. The chief features
+of the church are its four angle belfries, which were not included in
+the original scheme of the architect, but were added later to insure an
+equal pressure on the foundations. Owing to these the church has been
+unkindly compared to an elephant with its four legs up in the air!
+Another story has it that Queen Anne, being troubled in mind by much
+wearisome detail, kicked over her wooden footstool, and said, "Go, build
+me a church like that"; but this sounds apocryphal, especially in view
+of the fact that the towers were a later addition. The church is
+undoubtedly cumbrous, but has the merit of originality. In 1742 it was
+gutted by fire, and was not rebuilt for some time owing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> to lack of
+funds. In 1773 the roof was slightly damaged by lightning, and
+subsequently repairs and alterations have taken place. The building
+seats 1,400 persons, and a canonry of Westminster Abbey is attached to
+the living.</p>
+
+<p>The churchwardens of St. John's possess an interesting memento in the
+form of a snuff-box, presented in 1801 by "Thomas Gayfere, Esq., Father
+of the Vestry of St. John the Evangelist." This has been handed down to
+the succeeding office-bearers, who have enriched and enlarged it by
+successive silver plates and cases.</p>
+
+<p>Smith Square shows, like so much of Westminster, an odd mixture of old
+brick houses, with heavily-tiled roofs, and new brick flats of great
+height. In the south-west corner stands the Rectory. Romney and Marsham
+Streets were called after Charles Marsham, Earl of Romney. Tufton Street
+was named after Sir Richard Tufton. One of the cockpits in Westminster
+was here as late as 1815, long after the more fashionable one in St.
+James's Park had vanished. The northern part of the street between Great
+Peter and Great College Streets was formerly known as Bowling Alley.
+Here the notorious Colonel Blood lived.</p>
+
+<p>Near the corner of Little Smith Street stands an architectural museum;
+it is not a very large building, but the frontage is rendered
+interesting by several statues and reliefs in stone. This, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> give it
+its full title, is "The Royal Architectural Museum and School of Art in
+connection with the Science and Art Department." The gallery is open
+free from ten to four daily, and in the rooms opening off its corridors
+art classes for students of both sexes are held; the walls are
+absolutely covered with ancient fragments of architecture and sculpture.
+The row of houses opposite to the museum is doomed to demolition, a
+process which has begun already at the north end. The house third from
+the south end, a small grocer's shop, is the one in which the great
+composer and musician Purcell lived. He was born in Great St. Ann's Lane
+near the Almonry, and his mother, as a widow, lived in Tothill Street.
+The boy at the very early age of six was admitted to the choir of the
+Chapel Royal, and was appointed organist to Westminster Abbey when only
+two-and-twenty, a place he very nearly lost by refusing to give up to
+the Dean and Chapter the proceeds of letting the seats in the organ-loft
+to view the coronation of James II., a windfall he considered as a
+perquisite. He is buried beneath the great organ, which had so often
+throbbed out his emotions in the sounds in which he had clothed them. On
+leaving Tufton Street he went to Marsham Street, where he died in 1695.
+The art students from the gallery now patronize the little room behind
+the shop for lunch and tea, running across<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> in paint-covered pinafore or
+blouse, making the scene veritably Bohemian.</p>
+
+<p>At the north end of Tufton Street is Great College Street. Here
+dignified houses face the old wall built by Abbot Litlington. They are
+not large; some are overgrown by creepers; the street seems bathed in
+the peace of a perpetual Sunday. The stream bounding Thorney Island
+flowed over this site, and its waters still run beneath the roadway. The
+street has been associated with some names of interest. Gibbon's aunt
+had here a boarding-house for Westminster boys, in which her famous
+nephew lived for some time. Mr. Thorne, antiquary, and originator of
+<i>Notes and Queries</i>, lived here. Some of Keats' letters to Fanny Brawne
+are dated from 25 Great College Street, where he came on October 16,
+1820, to lodgings, in order to conquer his great passion by absence; but
+apparently absence had only the proverbial effect. Walcott lived here,
+and his History of St. Margaret's Church and Memorials of Westminster
+are dated from here in 1847 and 1849 respectively. Little College Street
+contains a few small, irregular houses brightened by window-boxes. A
+slab informs us that the date of Barton Street was 1722, but the row of
+quiet, flat-casemented houses looks older than that. At the west end of
+Great College Street stood the King's slaughter-house for supplying meat
+to the palace; the foundations of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> were extant in 1807. The end of
+Great College Street opens out opposite the smooth lawns of the Victoria
+Public Garden, near the House of Lords.</p>
+
+<p>In Great Smith Street there was a turnpike at the beginning of the last
+century. Sir Richard Steele and Keats both dated letters from this
+address, and Thomas Southerne, the dramatist, died here. The northern
+part of the street was known as Dean Street until 1865; the old
+workhouse of the united parish used to stand in it. The Free Library is
+in this street. Westminster was the first Metropolitan parish to adopt
+the Library Acts. The Commissioners purchased the lease of a house,
+together with furniture, books, etc., from a Literary, Scientific, and
+Mechanics' Institute which stood on the east side of the road, a little
+to the north of the present library building, and the library was opened
+there in 1857. In 1888 the present site was purchased, and the building
+was designed by J. F. Smith, F.R.I.B.A.</p>
+
+<p>Dean Stanley presented 2,000 volumes of standard works in 1883, to which
+others were added by his sister, Mrs. Vaughan, to whom they had been
+left for her lifetime. The library also contains 449 valuable volumes
+published by the Record Office. These consist of Calendars of State
+Papers, Reports of the Deputy Keeper of the Public Record Office,
+Chronicles and Memorials of Great Britain and Ireland during the Middle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>
+Ages, and Records of Great Britain from the Reign of Edward the
+Confessor to Henry VIII. The Westminster Public Baths and Wash-houses,
+designed by the same architect are next door to the library. The Church
+House opposite is a very handsome building in a Perpendicular style; it
+is of red brick with stone dressings. The interior is very well
+furnished with fine stone and wood carving. The great hall holds 1,500
+people, and runs the whole length of the building from Smith Street to
+Tufton Street. The roof is an open timber structure of the hammer-beam
+type, typical of fourteenth-century work. Near the north end of Great
+Smith Street is Queen Anne's Bounty Office, rebuilt 1900.</p>
+
+<p>Orchard Street is so named from the Abbot's Orchard. John Wesley once
+lived here. In Old Pye Street a few squalid houses with low doorways
+remain to contrast with the immense flats known as Peabody's Buildings,
+which have sprung up recently. In 1862 George Peabody gave &pound;150,000 for
+the erection of dwellings for the working classes, and to this he
+subsequently added &pound;500,000. The first block of buildings was opened in
+Spitalfields, 1864. These in the neighbourhood of Old Pye Street were
+erected in 1882. Pye Street derives its name from Sir Robert Pye, member
+for Westminster in the time of Charles I., who married a daughter of
+John Hampden. St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> Matthew Street was Duck Lane until 1864, and was a
+very malodorous quarter. Swift says it was renowned for second-hand
+bookshops. The Westminster Bluecoat School was first founded here.</p>
+
+<p>St. Ann's Street and Lane are poor and wretched quarters. The name is
+derived from a chapel which formerly stood on the spot (see p. <a href="#Page_37">37</a>).
+Herrick lodged in the street when, ejected from his living in the
+country in 1647, he returned with anything but reluctance to his beloved
+London. He had resumed lay dress, but was restored to his living in 1662
+in reward for his devoted loyalty to the Stuarts. The great musician,
+Henry Purcell, was born in St. Ann's Lane. Seymour, writing in 1735,
+says: "Great St. Ann's Lane, a pretty, handsome, well-built and
+well-inhabited place." St. Matthew's Church and Schools were built by
+Sir G. A. Scott in 1849-57.</p>
+
+<p>Great Peter Street is a dirty thoroughfare with some very old houses. On
+one is a stone slab with the words, "This is Sant Peter Street, 1624. R
+[a heart] W." This and its neighbour, Little Peter Street, obviously
+derive their names from the patron saint of the Abbey. Strype describes
+Great Peter Street pithily as "very long and indifferent broad." Great
+Peter Street runs at its west end into Strutton Ground, a quaint place
+which recalls bygone days by other things than its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> name, which is a
+corruption of Stourton, from Stourton House. The street is thickly lined
+by costers' barrows, and on Saturday nights there is no room to pass in
+the roadway.</p>
+
+<p>Before examining in detail the part that may be called the core and
+centre of Westminster, that part lying around the Abbey and Houses of
+Parliament, it is advisable to begin once more at the west end of
+Victoria Street, and, traversing the part of the parish on the north
+side, gather there what we may of history and romance.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II<br /><br />
+NORTH OF VICTORIA STREET.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The United Westminster Schools, constituted 1873, stand on the east side
+of Palace Street. These comprise Emanuel Hospital, Greencoat School (St.
+Margaret's), Palmer's (Blackcoat School), and Hill's Grammar School. The
+building in Palace Street stands back from the road behind a space of
+green grass. Over one doorway are medallions of Palmer and Hill, and
+over the other the Royal arms, and the structure is devoid of any
+architectural attractiveness. The beauty which belonged to the older
+buildings has not been revived, but replaced by a hideous
+utilitarianism. Watney's Brewery occupies the ground<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> opposite to the
+school. The schools of St. Andrew are in this street, and beyond is the
+Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Edward. Stafford Place is
+called after Viscount Stafford, on the site of whose garden wall it is
+said to have been built. This wall formed the parish boundary, and a boy
+was annually whipped upon it to impress the bounds upon his memory.</p>
+
+<p>Tart Hall, built 1638, stood at the north end of James Street. It was
+the residence of Viscount Stafford, to whom it had come from his mother
+Alethea, daughter and heiress of the seventh Earl of Shrewsbury. Lord
+Stafford was the fifth son of the Earl of Arundel and Surrey, and was
+made first a Baron and then a Viscount by Charles I. He was condemned
+for high treason on the manufactured evidence of Oates and Turberville,
+in the reign of Charles II., and was beheaded on Tower Hill, December
+29, 1680. After his execution the house was turned into a museum and
+place of public entertainment. The gateway under which he passed to his
+death was never again opened after that event, but it was left standing
+until 1737. Among the notable residents in the street were Dr. White
+Kennet, Bishop of Peterborough, an indefatigable collector of MSS., and
+Glover, the poet.</p>
+
+<p>The present street contains many pleasant, picturesque houses,
+especially at the northern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> end. At the corner of Castle Lane is the
+Westminster Chapel, the largest Independent place of worship in the
+Metropolis excepting Spurgeon's Tabernacle. It seats 2,500, and has two
+galleries, one above the other, running round the whole interior. It was
+opened in 1865 to replace a smaller chapel which had previously stood on
+the same site.</p>
+
+<p>Emanuel Hospital was a charming old building which stood south of the
+chapel on the same side of the street. It was founded in 1594 by Lady
+Dacre "for the relief of aged people and the bringing up of children in
+virtue and good and laudable arts, whereby they might the better live in
+time to come by their honest labour." The low range of buildings running
+round a quadrangle had tall chimneys, and the central house was
+decorated by a cupola and clock. It was the sort of place that took the
+sharpness off charity by covering it with a sheath of that dignity which
+is always to be found in antiquity.</p>
+
+<p>By Lady Dacre's will there were to be twenty almspeople, and each of
+them was at liberty to bring up one child. It was, however, not until
+the year 1728 that a school was first established, for before that the
+funds had been insufficient.</p>
+
+<p>In 1890 thirteen of the almshouses stood empty from failure of income,
+and subsequently it was resolved to demolish the almshouses and offer
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> present valuable site for building purposes. It is not the
+intention of the trustees to erect new almshouses. The charity will in
+future be entirely in money pensions known as Lady Dacre's pensions.</p>
+
+<p>Caxton Street was originally called Chapel Street, but was renamed in
+honour of the great printer, who lived for some years at a house in the
+Almonry, now replaced by the Westminster Palace Hotel (see p. <a href="#Page_34">34</a>).</p>
+
+<p>On the south side of the street is a curious little square brick
+building with the figure of a Bluecoat boy over the porch, and the
+inscription on a slab, "The Blue Coat School, built in the year 1709."
+On the back is a large painting of a similar boy and the date of
+foundation: "This School founded 1688." A small garden stretches out
+behind. The building itself contains simply one hall or classroom, which
+is decorated by an ornamental dental cornice, and has a curious inner
+portico with fluted columns over the doorway. It is supposed to have
+been built by the great Sir Christopher. The Master's house, covered
+with Virginia creeper, stands on one side of the main building.</p>
+
+<p>The school was first established in Duck Lane, and was instituted by
+Thomas Jekyll, D.D., one of the chaplains of the Broadway Chapel. It is
+said to have been the first school in the Metropolis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> supported by
+voluntary contributions. It was at first for boys only, but in 1713
+twenty girls were included in the scheme, but these were afterwards
+dispersed and only the boys retained. Westminster was exceptionally rich
+in these foundations of the charitable, both for the young and for the
+old.</p>
+
+<p>Further eastward, on the north side of Caxton Street, is the Medical
+School in connection with Westminster Hospital. The Town Hall stands
+close by. The foundation-stone was laid by the Baroness Burdett-Coutts.
+In the muniment-room there are preserved 3,400 records, etc., of
+exceptional interest. Here, also, are the St. Ermin's Mansions and
+Hotel, which derive their name from St. Ermin's Hill, evidently a
+corruption of Hermit's Hill, under which name the place is marked in
+some old maps.</p>
+
+<p>Christ Church is of considerable size. It is of the last century (1843),
+and its stumpy tower, which is incomplete, gives it an odd appearance.
+The church is on the site of the Broadway Chapel, founded by Darrell, a
+Prebendary of the Abbey, who in 1631 left &pound;400 for its erection. Various
+subscriptions were added to this sum, including one of &pound;100 from
+Archbishop Laud. The churchyard had been consecrated in 1626. The chapel
+was opened 1642, and saw many vicissitudes of fortune. During the Civil
+War it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> was used as a stable for the soldiers' horses, and at other
+times as a council-room and a prison. In the churchyard Sir William
+Waller, the Parliamentary General, is buried.</p>
+
+<p>York Street was named after Frederick, Duke of York, son of George II.,
+who resided here temporarily. Previously it had been called Petty
+France, from the number of French refugees and merchants who inhabited
+it. Milton lived in No. 19, now destroyed. The house belonged to Jeremy
+Bentham, and was afterwards occupied by Hazlitt, who caused a tablet
+bearing the words "Sacred to Milton, Prince of Poets," to be placed on
+the outside wall in memory of his famous predecessor.</p>
+
+<p>Milton came here in 1651, when turned out of chambers in Scotland Yard
+which had been allowed him as Latin Secretary to the Council. He still
+retained the office. He had lost the sight of one eye, and two years
+later was totally blind. He was obliged to have an assistant-secretary,
+a post occupied for some time by Andrew Marvell. His daughter Deborah
+was born here, and his wife died soon after. In Palmer's Passage,
+Palmer's Almshouses were first established, and in Little Chapel Street,
+Mr. Nicholas Butler's. Mr. Cornelius Vandon's (Van Dun) were in Petty
+France. "Cornelius Vandon was born at Breda in Brabant, Yeoman of the
+Guard and Usher to their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> Majesties Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen
+Marie and Queen Elizabeth. He did give eight almshouses in Pettie France
+next to the end of James Street for the use of eight poor Women of the
+Parish. He did also give eight other Almshouses near St. Ermin's Hill by
+Tuttle side for the use of eight poor widows of this Parish." These
+eight women were intended to act as charity nurses, and to nurse any who
+were sick in the parish.</p>
+
+<p>In 1850 the almshouses and ground were sold, and the proceeds devoted to
+Vandon's Charity Account. Part of the funds was used to purchase a plot
+of ground in Lambeth, where new almshouses were erected, and after the
+death of the recipients of the charity these were let to tenants, and
+the proceeds devoted to supplying nurses for the poor.</p>
+
+<p>The towering blocks of Queen Anne's Mansions, the highest flats in
+London, rear themselves at the east end of York Street. These are partly
+on the site of a house occupied for very many years by Jeremy Bentham
+(see p. <a href="#Page_32">32</a>).</p>
+
+<p>The Guards Barracks, known as the Wellington Barracks, face Birdcage
+Walk. They were opened in March, 1834, and enlarged in 1859. The long
+line of yellow-washed building differs little from the usually-accepted
+barrack model.</p>
+
+<p>At the east end of the barrack yard stands the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> chapel, with an
+extraordinarily massive portico. It was built in 1839-40 on the model of
+a Grecian temple. The building is well proportioned, but the interior
+was not at first thought worthy of the exterior. Accordingly, in 1877
+the chapel was closed, and a sum of money arising from the sale of the
+Guards' Institute was devoted to the purpose of a complete internal
+reconstruction. The work was put into the hands of Sir G. E. Street,
+R.A., who carried it out in the Lombardian style, with an apse at the
+eastern end, and over the apse a semi-dome.</p>
+
+<p>Within, every spare foot of wall-space is utilized, and, besides being a
+perfect storehouse of memorials of departed Guardsmen, the chapel is
+full of rich but unobtrusive decoration. The sweep of the high pillars
+and arches of light stone relieves the richness of the mural
+ornamentation. The side-walls of the nave are covered by an arcade
+enclosing panels of marble mosaic. The heads of the arches are filled in
+by terra-cotta groups in high relief, representing Biblical subjects.
+Between and below the panels are tablets to the memory of those who have
+served in the Guards.</p>
+
+<p>Between the windows are other tablets, of which the most interesting is
+that inscribed: "Soldier, Sportsman, Author, George Whyte Melville's
+memory is here recorded by his old friends and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> comrades, the Coldstream
+Guards." The chancel screen and pulpit are of white Sicilian marble,
+with handsome panels and a base of Belgian black. In the spandril of the
+arch on the south side of the chancel is a marble medallion of the Duke
+of Wellington, presented by his son, and in the corresponding position
+on the north side one of the Duke of Marlborough, presented by the Earl
+of Cadogan. The stalls are of stained oak. The altar is of oak, with
+walnut panels and ebony shafts. The reredos is lined by beautiful glass
+mosaics, and the semi-dome is mosaic work to match. This sounds a mere
+catalogue, but it is quite impossible to give any idea of this
+singularly richly-decorated chapel without descending to detail. The
+tattered colours used at the Crimea and Waterloo hang from their staves
+on the pillars. Anyone is admitted to parade service on Sunday mornings
+by ticket, to be procured beforehand by writing to the chaplain.</p>
+
+<p>Queen Anne's Gate was formerly Queen Square. At a corner stands a statue
+of Queen Anne without date. Many of the houses show quaintly carved
+porches with wooden brackets and pendants, and are obviously of the date
+which the name implies. Jeremy Bentham lived in Queen Square Place, now
+covered by part of Queen Anne's Mansions, for fifty years of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> his life,
+and here he died in 1832. His skeleton, clothed as in life, is now
+possessed by University College, London. His house was called The
+Hermitage. His friend and disciple, James Mill, came to be his tenant in
+1814, in what was then 1 Queen's Square, now 40 Queen Anne's Gate. Here
+he completed his great History of India, published in 1818.</p>
+
+<p>After Mill, Sir John Bowring, first editor of the <i>Westminster Review</i>,
+established by Bentham, occupied the house now numbered 40. Peg
+Woffington also lived in Queen Square, which was a fashionable place of
+residence in the last century, a reputation it still retains. Both Great
+and Little Queen Streets partake of the old-world look of the
+seventeenth century, and show quaint keystones and carving of various
+designs over the doorways.</p>
+
+<p>The Broadway formerly included the part now occupied by Great Chapel
+Street, and reached to Strutton Ground. In James I.'s reign a license
+was granted for a haymarket to be held here, which license was renewed
+from time to time. Dick Turpin, the highwayman, is said to have lived in
+one of the small courts off the Broadway, and to have issued from thence
+on his marauding expeditions. Perhaps this was Black Horse Yard, which
+name still appears. There is on every side evidence of that mingling of
+poverty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> and riches which has been in all ages so characteristic of
+Westminster, a parish which contains at the same time splendid
+Government buildings and squalid slums, one of the most magnificent
+cathedrals in the world and some of the foulest courts.</p>
+
+<p>In Newcourt's map of 1658 Tothill Street is completely built, while
+there are very few streets to the south of the present Victoria Street.
+Walcott says of this street that it "was inhabited by noblemen and the
+flower of the gentry in Westminster." In Elizabeth's time the houses had
+large gardens attached. Edmund Burke lived in Tothill Street, also
+Thomas Southerne, the dramatist, who was a constant attendant at the
+Abbey; and Thomas Betterton was born here about 1635. His father was an
+under-cook in the service of Charles I. Betterton wrote a number of
+plays, but is best remembered as an actor.</p>
+
+<p>The Aquarium, 600 feet in length, stands on the site of a labyrinth of
+small yards. To one of these the Cock public-house gave its name.
+Tradition says that the Abbey workmen received their wages at the Cock
+in the reign of Henry III. At the eastern corner, where Tothill and
+Victoria Streets meet, is the Palace Hotel, a very large building, with
+two Titanic male figures supporting the portico in an attitude of
+eternal strain. This is on part of the site of the Almonry.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> This
+Almonry is thus described by Stow: "Now corruptly the Ambry, for that
+the alms of the Abbey were there distributed to the Poor. Therein was
+printing first practised in England." Caxton is often spoken of,
+incorrectly, as the inventor of printing. That credit belongs to
+Gutenberg, a native of Mainz, but Caxton was the first who brought the
+art to England and printed English books. He was born in the Weald of
+Kent, and his father was a citizen of London. As a boy, Caxton was sent
+to a house of English merchants at Bruges, and there he remained for
+many years, rising steadily in reputation. There he came in contact with
+a man named Colard Mansion, who had brought the art of printing to
+Bruges. Caxton seems to have seen at once the vast importance of the
+invention, and got Mansion to print two books in English, the first ever
+set up in the language. These were: "A Recuyell of the Historyes of
+Troie," printed 1474; and "The Game and Playe of the Chesse." Apparently
+the experiment met with success. Caxton soon after left the house of
+business, married, and became secretary to the Duchess of Burgundy, but
+he was not long in her service, for he returned to England in 1476. He
+brought over with him printing-presses and workmen, and settled in
+Westminster. He placed his press, by permission of the Prior
+(after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>wards Abbot) Islip, in the Almonry just outside the gatehouse.</p>
+
+<p>His house was called Reed (Red) Pale, and was situated on the north side
+of the Almonry. A house traditionally called Caxton's was pointed out up
+to fifty years ago. It is described as being of red brick. In the
+library of Brasenose College, Oxford, there is a placard in Caxton's
+largest type inviting people to "come to Westminster in the Almonystrye
+at the Reed Pale."</p>
+
+<p>Caxton died in 1491, and, with his wife, is buried in St. Margaret's
+Church. He left one daughter.</p>
+
+<p>A copy of "The Royal Book," or "Book for a King," compiled for Philip of
+France in 1279, and translated and printed by Caxton at Westminster in
+1487, was sold this year in England for &pound;2,225. There are only five
+copies in existence, one of which was sold in 1901 for &pound;1,550. The other
+three are in public libraries. Could Caxton have looked onward for 400
+years, his astonishment and gratification at these prodigious prices
+would doubtless have been extreme.</p>
+
+<p>The Almonry, or "Eleemosynary," as Stow calls it, was in two parts, of
+which the larger was again subdivided in two portions, parallel to the
+two Tothill Streets. The distribution of the Royal maundy which takes
+place in Westminster Abbey yearly, with much ceremony, is a reminder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> of
+the ancient almsgiving. The address of the present Royal Almonry is 6,
+Craigs Court.</p>
+
+<p>Henry VII.'s almshouses were in the Little Almonry, and St. Ann's Chapel
+(p. <a href="#Page_23">23</a>) was at the southern end. King Henry's mother, Margaret, erected
+an almshouse near the chapel for poor women, which "was afterwards
+turned into lodgings for the singing men of the College."</p>
+
+<p>A great gatehouse formerly stood at the east end of Victoria Street,
+close by Dean's Yard. It was built by Richard II., and was very massive,
+resembling a square tower of stone, and it altogether lacked the
+architectural decoration of the other gateways near King Street to be
+spoken of presently. Well might it seem gloomy, for it fulfilled the
+functions of a prison. On one side was the Bishop of London's prison for
+"Clerks, convict," and in the other were confined prisoners from the
+City or Liberties of Westminster. Many distinguished prisoners were
+confined here. Sir Walter Raleigh passed the night before his execution
+within the solid walls, and wrote his farewell to life:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Even such is Time! that takes on trust<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Our youth, our joys, our all we have;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And pays us but with age and dust;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who in the dark and silent grave,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When we have wandered all our ways,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Shuts up the story of our days."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most illustrious victim of all those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> who have perished on
+English scaffolds is Sir Walter Raleigh. He was brought out to die in
+Old Palace Yard at eight in the morning of October 29, 1618. The day
+chosen was Lord Mayor's Day, in the hope that the pageants of the day
+would draw away the people from witnessing the death of this great man.
+The story of his execution is well known. His last words have not been
+allowed to perish. "Now," he said, as he mounted the scaffold, "I am
+going to God." Then, touching the axe, he said: "This is a sharp
+medicine, but it will cure all diseases." Lady Raleigh herself waited
+near the scaffold in a coach. The head was placed in a leather bag,
+wrapped about with Sir Walter's gown, and so she carried it away. She
+preserved it in a case during the rest of her life, and her son Carew
+kept it afterwards. It is believed to have been buried at last at West
+Horsley, in Surrey. The body was buried in St. Margaret's, near the
+altar.</p>
+
+<p>Here also was imprisoned Colonel Lovelace, who wrote within the gloomy
+walls the well-known lines:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"When, linnet-like, confin&eacute;d I<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">With shriller note shall sing<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The mercye, sweetness, majesty,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And glories of my King;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When I shall voyce aloud how good<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">He is, how great should be,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Th' enlarged winds that curl the flood<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Know no such liberty.<br /></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Stone walls do not a prison make,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Nor iron bars a cage:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Minds, innocent and quiet, take<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">That for an hermitage.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">If I have freedom in my love,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And in my soul am free,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Angels alone, that soare above,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Enjoy such liberty."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Here were confined, also, Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; and Sir Jeffrey
+Hudson, the little dwarf, who was first in the service of the Duchess of
+Buckingham, and afterwards in that of Queen Henrietta Maria, and was
+twice painted by Vandyck. Hudson died in the prison. Hampden, Sir John
+Eliot, and Lilly, the astrologer, were imprisoned at various times, and
+Titus Oates died in the gatehouse in his sixty-third year. Richard
+Savage, the poet, adds another name to the list. In 1776 the Dean and
+Chapter of Westminster ordered that the gatehouse should be pulled down,
+but one wall, adjoining the house once inhabited by Edmund Burke, was
+still standing in 1836.</p>
+
+<p>Close by was Thieving Lane, through which thieves were taken to the
+prison without passing by the sanctuary and claiming its immunity.</p>
+
+<p>Within the High Gate was the Abbey Precinct, and with this we pass into
+by far the most interesting part of Westminster&mdash;that part that may be
+called the nucleus, round which cluster so many historical memories that
+the mere task of recording them is very great.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PART_III" id="PART_III"></a>PART III<br /><br />
+THE HEART OF WESTMINSTER.</h2>
+
+
+<p>As we, in imagination, pass through the ancient prison gate, at the east
+end of Victoria Street, we find on the left Prince's Street, formerly
+called Long Ditch. His Majesty's Stationery Office stands on the east, a
+large dull brick building, stuccoed in front, built round a courtyard.
+Lewisham Street and Parker Street are long narrow foot-passages, running
+east and west, the latter a cul-de-sac. The tablet on the wall is much
+worn, but seems to have borne the date "Parker Street, 1621." This is in
+accordance with the lines of old flat-casemented, two-story houses which
+line each side of the street.</p>
+
+<p>Westminster Hospital originated in 1715 at a small house in Birdcage
+Walk from which outdoor relief was administered. Five years later the
+hospital began to receive in-patients, and in 1724 began a new lease of
+usefulness in a building in Chapel Street with accommodation for sixty
+in-patients. Nine years after the removal to Chapel Street the hospital
+was transferred to James Street. This change of position was objected to
+by part of the governing body, who seceded, and eventually established
+St. George's Hospital at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> Hyde Park Corner. In 1834 the present building
+was erected. It was the first to be established by voluntary
+contributions in London. It is unique in possessing an incurable ward,
+and in the system of nursing, which is carried out by contract. The
+leads are utilized as an airing-ground for the patients.</p>
+
+<p>The Guildhall or Sessions House of Middlesex is an ancient institution.
+Previous to 1752 the sessions were held at the Town Court House near
+Westminster Hall. In 1805 the Guildhall was erected from designs by S.
+P. Cockerell at the spot where the present Gothic fountain is. The
+present building is on the site of the Sanctuary. A little building of
+heavy stonework, about sixty feet high, once stood here; it had one door
+only, of solid oak, covered with iron plates, and this led into a sombre
+chapel. This was St. Peter's Sanctuary, dedicated to the Holy Innocents,
+and to it any hunted criminal had the right of entry. Apparently, his
+pursuers might besiege him without danger of sacrilege, but at any rate
+he could defy them in tolerable security within those massive walls.
+There do not seem to be many records of the occasions on which it was
+used; we do not hear of the quick step and panting breath of the
+fugitive as he neared that doorway, nor read of the sense of relief with
+which he shot the bolts into place before he crept up to the roof to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+peep over the low parapet and see if his enemies were hard upon his
+heels. Yet these things must have happened again and again. The most
+touching occasion recorded in history is when the Queen-mother Elizabeth
+sought refuge here with her younger son Richard and her daughters. It
+was not a new thing to her to have to seek protection thus. She had been
+here before, and her elder boy, destined for so short a reign and so
+cruel a death, had been born within the confines of the prison-like
+walls. On the second occasion, when the ferocious Richard, Duke of
+Gloucester, sought to obtain possession of his younger nephew, he
+respected the limits of sanctuary, but with his plausible tongue he
+persuaded the Archbishop who accompanied him to consent to his schemes,
+and he silenced, if he did not assuage, the mother's fears. So the
+little Richard was taken to die in the Tower with his brother, and small
+use had sanctuary been to him.</p>
+
+<p>The work of the demolition of this massive keep was going on in 1775,
+but it does not seem to have proceeded regularly; people came and tore
+away fragments from the walls as they listed, and the gloomy building
+vanished piecemeal.</p>
+
+<p>By Acts passed in the early part of the nineteenth century, part of Long
+Ditch, Bridge Street, Little George Street, and King Street were cleared
+away, also Broad and Little Sanctuary,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> Thieving Lane, and many small
+courts, and on the space thus obtained public seats were placed,
+flower-beds planted, and statues erected.</p>
+
+<p>The statues on the quadrangular piece of ground in the centre are of
+Peel and Beaconsfield, north and south; Palmerston and Derby on the
+east. The statue of George Canning is in the western enclosure. Union
+Street ran due eastward to New Palace Yard, and must have cut very near
+the place where the statue of Palmerston now stands. The drinking
+fountain at the corner of Great George Street was put up by Charles
+Buxton in 1865 in memory of the abolition of the slave trade.</p>
+
+<p>Westminster Abbey, Palace, and City stood formerly upon a small island
+called Thorney, the Isle of Bramble, a low-lying islet covered with
+brambles, nowhere more than three or four feet above the level of
+high-tide formed by the fall of the little river, the Tye, into the
+Thames. Part of this stream ran down Gardener's Lane; part of it
+diverged and ran south, forming a narrow moat or ditch called Long Lane,
+turned eastward at College Street, and so fell into the Thames. The
+island is mentioned in a charter of 785 by Offa, King of Mercia, as
+"Tornica, Locus terribilis"&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, sacred. It was about 1,410 feet
+long and 1,100 feet broad. It was almost entirely, save for a narrow
+piece of land on the north, occupied by the King's House and the Abbey.
+Both Palace and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> Abbey were surrounded by walls, one wall being common
+to both.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace Precinct had three gates: one on the north, one on the
+east&mdash;leading to the Bridge, <i>i.e.</i>, the jetty where the state barges
+and the boats lay&mdash;and a postern leading into the Abbey. Westminster was
+at first a large rural manor belonging to the Abbey before the erection
+of the Palace.</p>
+
+<p>A large part of Thorney Island is still only slightly above the level of
+high-tide. King Street was 5 feet 6 inches only above high-water mark.
+This was the foundation of Westminster. It was a busy place long before
+London Bridge was built&mdash;a place of throng and moil as far back as the
+centuries before the coming of the Romans. A church was built in the
+most crowded part of it; monks in leathern jerkins lived beside the
+church, which lay in ruins for two hundred years, while the pagan Saxon
+passed every day beside it across the double ford. During the two
+hundred years of war and conquest by the Saxons, Westminster, quite
+forgotten and deserted, lay with its brambles growing over the Roman
+ruins, and the weather and ivy pulling down the old walls of villa and
+stationary camp piecemeal. Perhaps&mdash;rather probably&mdash;there had been a
+church upon the island in the third or fourth century. Soon after the
+conversion of the Saxons another church was erected here with a monastic
+house. Then there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> was another destruction and another rebuilding, for
+this place was deserted by the monks; perhaps they were murdered during
+the Danish troubles. It was King Edgar who restored the Abbey, to which
+Dunstan brought twelve monks from Glastonbury.</p>
+
+
+<h3>WESTMINSTER ABBEY.<br />
+<br />
+(<span class="smcap">Mrs. A. Murray Smith</span>.)</h3>
+
+<p>On the sacred island the last great Prince of the Saxon race, Edward,
+son of Ethelred the Unready, found Dunstan's little brotherhood of
+Benedictine monks, who were living in mud huts round a small stone
+chapel. Out of this insignificant beginning grew a mighty monastery, the
+West Minster, dowered with royal gifts and ruled over by mitred Abbots,
+who owned no ecclesiastical authority save that of the Pope, bowed to no
+secular arm save that of the Sovereign himself. The full title of the
+Abbey, which is seldom used nowadays, is the Collegiate Church of St.
+Peter's.</p>
+
+<p>King Edward had vowed, during his long exile in Normandy, that if he
+ever sat on the throne of his fathers he would go on a pilgrimage to St.
+Peter's shrine at Rome. But after his accession the unsettled state of
+the kingdom made it impossible to keep this vow, and he was absolved
+from it by the Pope on the condition that he should found or re-endow a
+monastic church<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> dedicated to St. Peter. This, therefore, was the origin
+of the great West Minster, and in afterdays the tomb of St. Edward the
+Confessor within its walls attracted pilgrims here, and made the
+building a peculiarly sacred one. Here the Sovereigns of England were
+always crowned, often married, and until the time of George III. usually
+buried.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest coronation of which there is historic certainty was that of
+Edward's friend and former protector, the Conqueror, William I. As the
+last Saxon King of the race of Ethelred was the first Sovereign who was
+buried at Westminster, so the head of the Norman line of English Kings
+was the first who was hallowed to the service of God and of his people
+on this historic spot. No trace is left of Edward's Norman monastery,
+save the foundations of some of the pillars and a round arch in the
+cloisters; but we know that his church was nearly on the same place as
+the present Abbey, and that the old Norman nave stood for many hundred
+years joined on to the choir and transepts of the new Early English
+building, and was pulled down bit by bit as the later church grew. For
+the beautiful Abbey which we see before us now, in the heart of a busy
+thoroughfare, is the work, not of one generation, but of five hundred
+years. The central part was built in the thirteenth century. The
+Confessor had been canonized by the Pope in 1163, and a century<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> later
+Henry III., who was a fervent admirer of the saint, caused a splendid
+shrine to be made by Italian workmen, which was to replace the old one
+of Henry II.'s time. The new style of pointed architecture was just
+coming in, and the Abbot of Westminster, Humez, had added a Lady Chapel
+to the old Norman church when Henry III. was a boy. As the King grew to
+manhood he saw the contrast between the two styles of architecture, and
+while the Italian shrine was still only half finished he caused the
+central part of the Confessor's Norman church to be demolished, and in
+its place an Early English choir and transepts were gradually
+constructed during the last twenty-seven years of Henry's reign, with a
+series of little chapels round the principal one where the shrine was to
+be placed. In 1269 the new church was ready for service, and the chapel
+was prepared for the shrine.</p>
+
+<p>The shrine, and within it the Confessor's coffin, still stands in the
+centre of this royal chapel of St. Edward&mdash;a battered wreck, yet bearing
+traces of its former beauty&mdash;and round it is a circle of royal tombs,
+drawn as by a magnet to the proximity of the royal saint. Henry III.,
+the second founder, is here himself. At his head is his warlike son
+Edward I., the Hammer of the Scots, with his faithful wife, Eleanor of
+Castile, at his feet. On the other side are the tombs of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> another
+Plantagenet, Edward III., the "mighty victor, mighty lord," and his good
+Queen, the Flemish Philippa. In a line with them is their handsome,
+unfortunate grandson Richard II., whose picture hangs beside the altar.
+Here also is the Coronation Chair, which encloses the Stone of Scone,
+and upon this "Seat of Majesty," ever since the time of Edward I., who
+reft the ancient stone from the Scots, all our Sovereigns have been
+seated at the moment of their coronation. On the west of the royal
+chapel a screen depicts the legends of the Confessor's life; on the east
+is the mutilated tomb of Henry V., the victor of Agincourt; above it the
+Chantry Chapel, where, after centuries of neglect, rest the remains of
+his wife, the French Catherine, ancestress of the great Tudor line.</p>
+
+<p>While the different dynasties succeeded one another, the building of the
+monastery and church went on slowly but surely under different Abbots,
+the monastic funds helped by gifts of money from the Kings and Queens
+and from the pilgrims who visited the shrine. Edward I., for instance,
+continued his father's work from the crossing of the transepts to one
+bay west of the present organ-screen, while after him Richard II. and
+Henry V. were the principal benefactors to the fabric. The west end was
+not reached till early in the sixteenth century, in the reign of Henry
+VII., when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> Abbot Islip superintended the completion of the west front
+and placed in the niches statues of those Kings who had been
+benefactors. The towers were not built till 1740, after the designs of
+Sir Christopher Wren, who died before they were finished. The great
+northern entrance has been called "Solomon's Porch" since the reign of
+Richard II., who erected a beautiful wooden porch outside the north
+door. This was destroyed in the thirteenth century, and the end of the
+north transept was changed into the classical style under Dean
+Atterbury, to whom, it is fair to add, we owe the fine glass of the
+rose-window. Within recent years the north front has again been restored
+on the lines of the original thirteenth-century architecture, and the
+present sculpture on the porch is from the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott;
+the work was carried out by Mr. John Pearson, who was the Abbey
+architect at that time.</p>
+
+<p>At the extreme east end, in the place of the Lady Chapel built by Abbot
+Humez, is the famous chapel called the "Wonder of the World," which was
+founded and endowed by the first Tudor King, and intended as a place of
+sepulture for himself and his family. The foundation-stone was laid in
+the presence of Henry VII. himself and of the great builder, Abbot
+Islip. The style is Perpendicular, much later than the main portion of
+the Abbey, and the whole of the exterior and interior<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> is elaborately
+carved and decorated with stone panelling, the badge of the Royal
+founder, the Tudor rose, recurring all over the walls. Inside the great
+feature is the "fan tracery" of the stone roof, which resembles that of
+King's College Chapel, Cambridge. The windows were once filled with
+coloured glass, only a fragment of which remains; and the niches with
+statues of saints and Kings, many of which were destroyed in early
+Puritan times, in the reign of Edward VI. In 1725 this chapel was
+appointed as the place for the installation of the Knights of the Bath,
+an Order revived by George I., and, although the Knights are now
+installed at Windsor, the Dean of Westminster remains the official
+chaplain of the Order.</p>
+
+<p>In the centre of the chapel is the tomb of the founder, Henry VII., and
+his wife, Elizabeth of York, and on the grille and the gates are the
+family badges. The tomb of Henry's mother, Margaret, Countess of
+Richmond, is in the south aisle; and the effigies of herself, her son
+and his wife, are fine specimens of the skill of the famous Italian
+sculptor Torrigiano. Henry's grand-daughters, the Queens Elizabeth and
+Mary Tudor, lie in the opposite aisle, sisters parted in life but united
+in death. Many other descendants of the founder lie side by side within
+the vaults, while the tombs of two of them, Margaret Stuart, Countess of
+Lennox, and Mary, Queen of Scots,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> are close to their common ancestress,
+Lady Margaret, in the south aisle. All the Stuart Sovereigns with the
+exception of James II. are here, but their only memorials are the wax
+figures of Charles II., William and Mary, and Anne, in the Islip chantry
+chapel.</p>
+
+<p>In a small chapel to the east of Henry VII.'s tomb once lay the bodies
+of the great Protector, Oliver Cromwell, and many of his mighty men, but
+their bones were dug up after the Restoration, and not allowed to rest
+in the Royal church. The Hanoverian Sovereigns are represented only by
+George II. and his Queen, Caroline the Illustrious, who rest here, their
+dust mingled according to the King's desire. Close by lie members of
+their numerous family and the mother, brothers and sisters of the next
+King, their grandson, George III. Amongst his relations is that brave
+General, the Duke of Cumberland, whose memory is maligned in the
+sobriquet "Billy the Butcher."</p>
+
+<p>In the ring of smaller chapels all around the shrine are the tombs of
+Princes and Princesses, courtiers and Court ladies, warriors and
+statesmen. Most conspicuous of all, towering over the beautiful
+Crusaders' monuments, is the vast cenotaph which insults the memory of
+Wolfe, and not far off is the colossal statue of James Watt.</p>
+
+<p>Outside, the cloisters recall the days of the monastery, when the Abbot
+sat in state in the east<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> cloister or washed the feet of beggars, and
+the brethren taught the novices and little schoolboys from the
+neighbourhood. The architecture there begins in the eleventh century and
+ends in the fourteenth, when Abbot Litlington finished the building of
+the monastic offices and cloisters with his predecessor Langham's
+bequest.</p>
+
+<p>The incomparable chapter-house was built in Henry III.'s time, and
+restored to some of its original beauty by Sir Gilbert Scott. The modern
+glass windows remind us of Dean Stanley and his love for the
+Abbey-church. The chapter-house belongs, as does the Chapel of the Pyx,
+to the Government, and is not under the Dean's jurisdiction. There the
+early Parliaments used to meet. In the south cloister is the door of the
+old refectory where the monks dined, and a little further on we come to
+the Abbot's house (now the Deanery), which contained in old days within
+its limits the "College Hall," where the Westminster schoolboys now have
+their meals. The Jerusalem Chamber and Jericho Parlour, which were
+formerly the Abbot's withdrawing-room and guest-chambers, date from the
+abbacy of Litlington at the end of the fourteenth century. To all lovers
+of Shakespeare the Jerusalem Chamber is familiar as the place where
+Henry IV. was carried when he fell stricken with a mortal illness before
+the shrine, and where Henry V. fitted on his father's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> crown. In this
+room in our own days the Revisers of the Bible used to meet.</p>
+
+<p>If we pass back into the nave by the west door, we shall see the names
+of statesmen, of naval and military heroes, on every side. Huge
+monstrosities of monuments surround us and grow in bulk as we pass up
+the musicians' aisle and reach the north transept, called the
+Statesmen's Corner. If we pause and glance around, striving to forget
+the outer shell, and to think only of the noble men commemorated, we
+shall remember much to make us proud of England's heroes and worthies.
+Above the west door stands young William Pitt pointing with outstretched
+arm towards the north transept, where we shall find his venerable
+father, Lord Chatham. Almost beneath his feet is the philanthropist Lord
+Shaftesbury, and near to him is a white slave kneeling before the statue
+of Charles James Fox, whose huge monument hides the humbler tablet to
+another zealous opponent of the slave trade, Zachary Macaulay. We must
+pause here an instant to gaze upon the bronze medallion head of General
+Gordon, the martyr of the Soudan, an enthusiast also in the suppression
+of slavery; and as we walk up the nave we must look for the slab of
+Livingstone, whose remains were brought to their final resting-place
+over deserts and trackless wildernesses by his faithful black servants.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the right, in Little Poets' Corner, is to be found the chief of the
+Lake poets, William Wordsworth. Here also is Dr. Arnold, the noted
+Headmaster of Rugby, his son Matthew, poet and critic, and beside them
+Keble, Kingsley and Maurice.</p>
+
+<p>The makers of our Indian Empire are about us now. Outram, the "Bayard of
+India," lies between Lord Lawrence and Lord Clyde; while in the north
+transept are earlier pioneers, the faithful naval, military, and civil
+servants of the great East India Company. On each side of the screen are
+two ponderous monuments which cannot escape the notice of the most
+casual sightseer; these commemorate Lord Stanhope, a General whose early
+reputation ranked next to that of Marlborough in Spain, and the immortal
+philosopher, Sir Isaac Newton. Purcell, chief among English musicians,
+claims our notice in the choir aisle, and we pass on surrounded by other
+musicians, by sailors and soldiers, until we stand in the very midst of
+the statesmen. It may be we have come to the Abbey in the spring, when
+we shall see the statue of Lord Beaconsfield literally covered with
+primroses. The Cannings, Sir Robert Peel in his Roman toga, Lord
+Palmerston, and many other statesmen, are here, and our feet tread on
+the grave of Gladstone as we pass towards the other transept, hastening
+to the company of the poets and men of letters.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The south transept has only been called Poets' Corner since the burial
+of Spenser, who was the darling of his generation. But the grave of
+Chaucer, "the father of English poetry," had consecrated the aisle to
+poetry long before. Chaucer was not given honourable sepulture here
+because he was a poet, but only from the accidental fact that he
+happened to be Clerk of the Works at Westminster Palace, and lived near
+the old Lady Chapel. For 250 years the great poet's only memorial was a
+leaden plate hanging on a column close by, but in 1551 a devoted
+admirer, himself a versifier, Nicholas Brigham, placed an ancient tomb
+here in memory of the master, with a fancy painting of Chaucer at the
+back. Before this monument are the graves of the two most famous poets
+of our generation, the Laureate Tennyson and Robert Browning, side by
+side. Above them is the beautiful bust of another Poet Laureate, Dryden,
+and the less artistic portrait bust of the American poet Longfellow.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the Poets' Corner are literally covered with memorials of
+men of letters. Many of these are but names to us at the present day,
+but some are familiar; others, such as "Rare Ben Jonson," Butler, the
+author of "Hudibras," Thomas Gray, Spenser, and Goldsmith, are household
+words throughout the Empire. Beneath our feet lie Sheridan and old Dr.
+Johnson.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The tardy memorials to Milton and Shakespeare eclipse the fame of all
+the rest. Quite recently busts of the Scotch bard Robert Burns, the
+poet-novelist Walter Scott, and a medallion head of the artistic prose
+writer and critic John Ruskin, have been placed here. Music is not
+unrepresented, for above us is the unwieldy figure of Handel, and
+beneath his feet a memorial to the Swedish nightingale, Jenny Lind
+Goldschmidt, whose perfect rendering of the master's airs will ever
+remain in the memory of those who were privileged to hear her. Further
+on is the historical side, where the chief prose writers are to be
+found; the venerable Camden is close to Grote and Bishop Thirlwall,
+historians whose bodies rest in one grave. The busts of Lord Macaulay
+and of Thackeray are on each side of Addison's statue, and beneath the
+pavement in front of them is the tombstone of the ever-popular Charles
+Dickens. David Garrick stands in close proximity to the grave of the
+dramatist Davenant, while scattered in various parts of the Abbey and
+cloisters will be found the names of other actors and actresses, notably
+Mrs. Siddons and her brother, John Kemble.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible in a few paragraphs to do more than allude to the
+history of the Abbey, and of the dead whose names are commemorated, or
+whose bodies rest within this great "Temple of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> Silence and
+Reconciliation." Let us conclude this brief sketch with the pregnant and
+pathetic words of the young playwriter John Beaumont, whose bones are
+mouldering beside those of Chaucer:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Mortality, behold and fear!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">What a change of flesh is here!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Think how many royal bones<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sleep within these heaps of stones.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Here they lie had realms and lands<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who now want strength to stir their hands.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">... Here are sands, ignoble things<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dropt from the ruined sides of kings;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Here's a world of pomp and state,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Buried in dust once dead by fate."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+
+<h3>ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH.</h3>
+
+<p>St. Margaret's Church is traditionally said to have been founded by
+Edward the Confessor, and that there was certainly a church here before
+1140 is proved by its being mentioned in a grant of Abbot Herebert, who
+died in that year. It was originally a chapel in the south aisle of the
+church of the Benedictine monks, and was rebuilt to a great extent in
+Edward I.'s reign. Further alterations were made in the time of Edward
+IV. In 1735 the tower was raised and faced with stone, and in 1758 the
+east end was rebuilt and the present stained glass inserted. A famous
+case between Sir Thomas Grosvenor and the family of Scrope concerning
+the rights of a heraldic device which either claimed was heard in St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+Margaret's, and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, gave evidence. In 1549
+Latimer preached in the church. The Protector Somerset, at the time he
+was building his great mansion in the Strand, had used a good deal of
+the ruins of religious houses, and still wanted more material. He
+therefore cast his unholy eyes upon St. Margaret's in order that he
+might use its time-worn stones for his own purposes, but he was resisted
+by the people of Westminster, who arose in their wrath and smote his
+workmen hip and thigh.</p>
+
+<p>On Palm Sunday in 1713 the great Dr. Sacheverell preached in the church
+after the term of his suspension, and no less than 40,000 copies of his
+sermon were sold. The church was for long peculiarly associated with the
+House of Commons, as when the members began to sit in St. Stephen's
+Chapel they attended Divine service in St. Margaret's, while the Lords
+went to the Abbey. Edmund Waller, the poet, was married in St.
+Margaret's to Anne Banks on July 5, 1631, and John Milton to Katherine
+Woodcock in November, 1656. A son of Sir Walter Raleigh's is buried in
+the church, and also Colonel Blood. Children of Judge Jeffreys: Bishop
+Burnet, Titus Oates and Jeremy Bentham were christened here. Besides
+Latimer and Sacheverell the list of great preachers in St. Margaret's is
+long, including many Archbishops and Bishops, and the roll of Rectors
+con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>tains many distinguished names. A man who occupies the pulpit must
+feel he has high tradition to uphold.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of St. Margaret's is far superior to the exterior, a
+reversal of what is usual in church architecture. The splendid arcades
+of aisle arches, early Perpendicular, or transition from Decorated to
+the Perpendicular style, are uninterrupted by any chancel arch, and with
+the clerestory windows sweep from end to end of the building. The east
+window is filled with stained glass of the richest tints, the blues and
+greens being particularly striking. This glass has a history. It was
+made at Gouda in Holland, and was a present from the magistrates of Dort
+to Henry VIII. for the chapel of Whitehall Palace. The King, however,
+gave it to Waltham Abbey (doubtless in exchange for something else). The
+glass suffered many removals and vicissitudes, being at one time buried
+to escape Puritan zeal, but it was eventually bought by the
+churchwardens of St. Margaret's for 400 guineas. The aisle windows, with
+one exception, to be noted presently, are the work of Sir Gilbert Scott
+at the last restoration, just before 1882. He designed the tracery in
+accordance with what he conceived to have been the date of the church;
+but when his work was finished a single window, that furthest east in
+the south aisle, was discovered walled up, and the style of this showed
+that his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> surmise had not been far wrong, though the period he had
+chosen was a little later. The glass in several of the windows is of
+interest. That at the east end of the south aisle is the Caxton window,
+put up 1820 by the Roxburghe Club, as was also the tablet below. That in
+the window in the centre, west end, is in memory of Sir Walter Raleigh,
+who was beheaded in Old Palace Yard, near at hand. It was put in by
+Americans about twenty years ago. Raleigh's tablet, with an inscription
+copied from the old wooden one which dated from the time of his death,
+is near the east entrance. The Milton window, also due to the generosity
+of an American, is on the north side of the Raleigh one. One of especial
+interest to Americans is that to Phillips Brooks, Bishop of
+Massachusetts, near the vestry door. There are many others deserving of
+notice.</p>
+
+<p>The general tint of all the glass is rich and subdued, with a
+predominance of yellow and sepia strangely effective. Of monuments there
+are many&mdash;they may be examined in detail on the spot; the oldest is that
+to Cornelius Van Dun, a dark stone medallion with a man's head in
+bas-relief on the north wall. Van Dun was Yeoman of the Guard and Usher
+to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth. A quaint one near it is
+to "Egioke," died 1622. The most elaborate monument in the church is
+that to Mary,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> Lady Dudley, sister to the famous Lord Howard of
+Effingham. This is the life-sized figure of a woman in alabaster, highly
+coloured; it stands near the vestry door. Above it is a relic that many
+might pass unnoticed; it is the figure of a woman about two-thirds
+life-size standing in an ancient rood door. The statue was found built
+up in the wall by a workman who struck his pick into the coloured stuff,
+and called attention to the fact. The figure is either that of the
+Virgin or St. Margaret. It has been carefully put together, but the head
+is lacking. Puritan zeal had evidently to do with its concealment.
+Puritan zeal, too, was answerable for the destruction of a magnificent
+tomb to Dame Billing, a benefactress who rebuilt the south aisle of the
+church about 1499.</p>
+
+<p>The churchwardens of St. Margaret's hold a valuable old loving-cup,
+presented 1764, and a tobacco-box purchased at Horn Fair for fourpence,
+and presented to the overseers by a Mr. Monck in 1713. Each succeeding
+set of overseers has added to the decoration of the box or given it a
+new case, and many of these are beautifully engraved; on the inside of
+the original lid Hogarth engraved on a silver plate the bust of the Duke
+of Cumberland of Culloden celebrity, and the whole set is now of great
+value and is quite unique. The door of the church opposite the Houses of
+Parliament is open daily from eleven till two.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>WESTMINSTER SCHOOL.</h3>
+
+<p>Outside the archway leading to Dean's Yard there is a granite column to
+the memory of the Westminster boys who fell in the Crimean War and
+Indian Mutiny. It was designed by Gilbert Scott, R.A. Scott was also the
+architect of the houses over the archway close at hand. The school has
+been long and intimately associated with the Abbey; there was probably a
+scholastic establishment carried on by the monks from the very earliest
+days, and recent discoveries by Mr. Edward Scott in the Abbey muniments
+prove that there was a grammar school&mdash;and not only a choir school&mdash;in
+existence before the Reformation. On the dissolution of the Abbey in
+Henry VIII.'s reign, it was formed into a college of Secular Canons, and
+the school was in existence then in dependence on the Canons. Queen
+Elizabeth remodelled her father's scheme and refounded the school,
+calling it St. Peter's College, Westminster, which is still its correct
+designation; so that, though the present establishment owes its origin
+to Queen Elizabeth, it may be said to have inherited the antiquity of
+its predecessor, and to hold its own in that matter with Winchester and
+Eton.</p>
+
+<p>If we pass under the archway into Dean's Yard,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> we find a backwater
+indeed, where the roar of traffic scarcely penetrates, where sleek
+pigeons coo in the elm-trees round a grass plot, as if they were in the
+close of one of the sleepiest of provincial towns instead of in the
+midst of one of the greatest cities in the world. On the east side there
+is a long building of smoke-blackened, old stone. The door at the north
+end leads into the cloisters, from whence we can pass into the school
+courtyard, otherwise the school entry is by a pointed doorway a little
+further down, beneath the Headmaster's house. Entering this, we have on
+the left Ashburnham House, on the right the houses of masters who take
+boarders, and opposite, a fine gateway with the arms of Queen Elizabeth
+over it; this is said to have been designed by Inigo Jones. The greater
+part of the buildings was designed by Wren, who died before the project
+was carried out, but there seems to be little doubt that the Earl of
+Burlington, who followed him in the appointment, used Wren's plans. The
+great square building, the scholars' dormitory (now cubicles), which
+faces us, standing a little way to the right of the ornamental gateway,
+is of this period; also much of the main building into which we enter by
+the gateway above mentioned, and a flight of steps. The seventh form
+room on the right has a fine ceiling of Italian plaster and bookcases
+with carved panels. This is known as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> Dr. Busby's Library, because built
+by him. It looks out over the college garden.</p>
+
+<p>The great schoolroom beyond, known as Up-School, is a splendid room,
+with mighty beams in its fine timber roof, and panels with the arms of
+Westminster boys now dead on the walls. The bar over which the pancake
+is tossed on Shrove Tuesday is pointed out, and a very great height it
+is. At the upper end of the room, which, by the way, is now used only
+for prayers, concerts, etc., is the birching-table, black and worn with
+age and use. Dryden's name, carved on a bench, is shown, and a chair
+presented by King Charles to Dr. Busby. The walls date originally from
+the twelfth century or earlier, but were practically rebuilt in the end
+of the eighteenth century. The only part of the college buildings which
+formed part of the original school is the college hall, built by Abbot
+Litlington in 1380 as the monks' refectory. But by far the oldest part
+of the buildings at present incorporated in the school is the Norman
+crypt, approached from the dark cloister, and forming part of the
+gymnasium made by the Chapter in 1860, by roofing in the walls beyond
+it, between it and the Chapter-house. A stranger gymnasium, surely, no
+school can boast.</p>
+
+<p>The name of Dr. Busby, Headmaster from 1638 to 1695, will be for ever
+held in honour at Westminster. He himself had been a Westminster<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> boy,
+and all his great ability and strong character were bent to furthering
+the interests of the school.</p>
+
+<p>The roll of names of those educated at Westminster includes Dryden,
+Bishop Atterbury, Cowley, Warren Hastings, Gibbon, Thomas Cowper,
+Charles Wesley, Lord John Russell, and many others well known wherever
+the English tongue is spoken.</p>
+
+<p>In 1706 there were nearly 400 boys, but after this the school began to
+decline; in 1841 it was at a very low ebb&mdash;there were less than seventy
+boys. The reasons for this decline were manifold. Building had been
+going on apace round the quiet precincts, and parents fancied their sons
+would be better in the country; also, though the charges were high, the
+system of living was extremely rough, and no money was spent on
+repairing the buildings. In 1845, when Wilberforce was appointed Dean,
+he set to work to inspire fresh life into the institution, but he had
+hardly time to do anything before he was appointed to the See of Oxford;
+however, the current set flowing by him gathered strength, and in 1846,
+when Liddell (afterwards Dean of Christchurch) was made Headmaster, the
+school was recovering its prosperity.</p>
+
+<p>Ashburnham House was taken over by the school in 1882, and it is well
+worth a visit. In the hall where the day boys have their lockers there
+is a very old buttery hatch, probably part of the monks' original
+building; at the back the little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> green garden is the site of the
+refectory, and traces of Norman windows are seen against the exterior
+cloister wall. The staircase in Ashburnham House is very fine; it is of
+the "well" variety, and is surmounted by a cupola with a little gallery.
+The walls are all panelled; unfortunately, paint has been laid on
+everything alike, and though the balusters have been recently uncovered,
+the process is difficult and laborious, and apt to injure the carving.
+The carving round the doorways is very fine, of the laurel-wreath
+pattern associated with the period of Wren. The house belonged to Lord
+Ashburnham, and was later used by the Prebendaries of the cathedral. The
+school is no longer in any sense dependent on the Abbey, and except that
+the boys attend the services there as "chapel," the old ties are
+severed. A great feature of the school are the King's (or Queen's)
+Scholars, founded by Elizabeth; of these there are now forty resident
+and twenty non-resident. There are three scholarships and three
+exhibitions yearly at Christ Church, Oxford, for Westminster boys, and
+three exhibitions at Trinity College, Oxford. There are at present
+(1902) about two hundred and thirty boys in the school. The Latin play,
+which is well known in connection with the school, is acted by the
+King's Scholars annually in the middle of December, and dates back to
+1704.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.</h3>
+
+<p>The annals of New Palace Yard are long and interesting. It looks so new
+and modern, with its Houses of Parliament, and its iron railings, that
+one forgets how ancient a place it is. What stood on the site of
+Westminster Hall before William Rufus built it we know not, but
+certainly some buildings belonging to the Old Palace of Cnut and Edward
+the Confessor. It was called, however, New Palace Yard on account of the
+buildings erected by William and his successors. It was enclosed by a
+wall which had three gates. The water-gate was on the site of the
+present bridge, while the Star Chamber occupied very nearly the site of
+the present Clock Tower. The yard was further beautified by a fountain,
+which on great days flowed with wine; this fountain, which was taken
+down in the reign of Charles II., stood on the north side. On the same
+side behind the fountain was the "Clochard," or Clock Tower. This fine
+building was erected by Sir Ralph Hingham, Lord Chief Justice under
+Edward I., in payment of a fine of 800 marks imposed upon him by the
+King for having altered a court roll. It was done in mercy, in order to
+change a poor man's fine of 12s. 4d. to 6s. 8d., but a court roll must
+not be altered. The care of the clock was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> granted to the Dean of St.
+Stephen's, with an allowance of sixpence a day. The bell, very famous in
+its day, was large and sonorous; it could be heard all over London when
+the wind was south-west. It was first called Edward, and bore this
+legend:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Tercius aptavit me Rex Edward que vocavit<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sancti decore Edwardi signerentur ut hore."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>When the Clock Tower, the "Clochard," was taken down in 1698, the bell
+called "Tom" was found to weigh 82 cwt. 2 qrs. 211 lb. It was bought by
+the Dean of St. Paul's. As it was being carried to the City, it fell
+from the cart in crossing the very boundary of Westminster, viz., under
+Temple Bar. In 1716 it was recast, and presently placed in the western
+tower of St. Paul's.</p>
+
+<p>In Palace Yard Perkin Warbeck sat in the stocks before the gate of
+Westminster Hall for a whole day, enduring innumerable reproaches,
+mockings and scornings.</p>
+
+<p>Here John Stubbs, the Puritan, an attorney of Lincoln's Inn, and Robert
+Page, his servant (December 3, 1580), had their hands struck off for a
+libel on the Queen, called "The Gaping Gulph, in which England will be
+swallowed by the French Marriage." What part the unfortunate servant
+played that he, too, should deserve a punishment so terrible is
+difficult to say. On<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> March 2, 1585, William Parry was drawn from the
+Tower and hanged and quartered here. And in January, 1587, one Thomas
+Lovelace, sentenced by the Star Chamber for false accusations, was
+carried on horseback about Westminster Hall, his face to the tail; he
+was then pilloried, and had one of his ears cut off. The execution, in
+1612, of Lord Sanquire for the murder of a fencing-master, and of the
+Duke of Hamilton, the Earl of Holland and Lord Capel, on March 9, 1649,
+for so-called treason, took place in New Palace Yard. Here in 1630
+Alexander Leighton was whipped, pilloried and branded for a libel on the
+Queen and the Bishops. In May, 1685, Titus Oates was stripped of his
+ecclesiastical robes and led round Westminster Hall; afterwards he was
+put in the pillory. The printer of the famous "No. 45" of the <i>North
+Briton</i> also stood in the pillory in New Palace Yard in 1765.</p>
+
+<p>In the Old Palace Yard, now covered by buildings, were fought out
+certain ordeals of battle. Here was held at least one famous tournament,
+that in which the two Scottish prisoners, the Earl Douglas and Sir
+William Douglas, bore themselves so gallantly that the King restored
+them to liberty on their promise not to fight against the English.</p>
+
+<p>One memory of Old Palace Yard must not be forgotten. Geoffrey Chaucer
+lived during his last year at a house adjoining the White Rose Tavern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+abutting on the Lady Chapel of the Abbey. The house was swept away to
+make room for Henry VII.'s chapel. Nor must we forget that Ben Jonson
+lived and died in a house over the gate or passage from the churchyard
+to the old palace. In the south-east corner of Old Palace Yard stood the
+house hired by the Gunpowder Plot conspirators for the conveyance of the
+barrels into the vault. And it was in Old Palace Yard that four of them
+suffered death.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of the ground now occupied by the Houses of Parliament,
+Westminster Hall and New Palace Yard was formerly covered with the
+walls, gates, tower, state chambers, private chambers, offices, stables,
+gardens, and outhouses, of the King's House, Westminster. Until sixty
+years ago, when fire finally destroyed them, still stood on this spot
+many of the buildings, altered and reroofed, repaired, and with changed
+windows and new decorations, of Edward the Confessor, and perhaps of
+Knut. Still under these modern houses the ground is covered with the old
+cellars, vaults and crypts, which it was found safer and cheaper to fill
+with cement than to break up and carry away.</p>
+
+<p>It is at present impossible to present a plan of the King's House such
+as it was when Edward the Confessor occupied it; we can, however, draw
+an incomplete plan of the place later on, say in the fourteenth
+century.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The palace was walled, but not moated; it had two principal gates, one
+opening to the north, and another on the river. The circuit of the wall
+only included twelve acres and a half, and into this compass had to be
+crowded in Plantagenet times the King's and Queen's state and private
+apartments, and accommodation for an immense army of followers, and also
+for all the craftsmen and artificers required by the Court. The total
+number of persons thus housed in the fourteenth century is reckoned at
+20,000. The part of the King's House thus occupied, the narrow streets
+of gabled houses, with tourelles at the corners, and much gilded and
+carved work, has vanished completely, even to the memory. When King
+Henry VIII. removed to the palace at Whitehall a new Westminster arose
+about his old Court; this in its turn almost vanished with the fire of
+1834. Up to this time some of the old buildings remained, but have now
+completely gone. Among them were the Painted Chamber, the Star Chamber,
+the old House of Lords, and Princes' Chamber, all part of Edward the
+Confessor's palace. In the Painted Chamber the Confessor himself died,
+but it is manifestly impossible to give here any minute account of the
+chambers in the ancient building.</p>
+
+<p>The crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel (not shown to visitors) is one of the
+few parts remaining which dates from before the fire. The chapel is said
+to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> have been first built by the King whose name it bore, but was
+rebuilt by Edward I. and greatly altered by his two immediate
+successors. It was used for the sittings of the House of Commons after
+Edward VI.'s reign. At the end of the seventeenth century it was much
+altered by Wren, but it perished in 1834. A small chapel on the south
+side was called Our Lady of the Pew. The oldest part of the ancient
+palace remaining is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus as a part
+of a projected new palace. He held his Court here in 1099, and, on
+hearing a remark on the vastness of his hall, he declared that it would
+be only a bedroom to the palace when finished. However, he himself had
+to occupy much narrower quarters before he could carry out his scheme.
+Richard II. raised the hall and gave it the splendid hammer-beam roof,
+one of the finest feats in carpentry extant. George IV. refaced the
+exterior of the hall with stone.</p>
+
+<p>In the eighteenth century the Courts of Justice (Chancery and King's
+Bench) were held here, and as the hall was also lined with shops, and
+the babble and walking to and fro were incessant, it is not wonderful
+that justice was sometimes left undone. It would be difficult&mdash;nay,
+impossible&mdash;to tell in detail all the strange historic scenes enacted in
+Westminster Hall in the limited space at disposal, and as they are all
+concerned rather with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> the nation than with Westminster, mere mention of
+the principal ones will be enough. Henry II. caused his eldest son to be
+crowned in the hall in his own lifetime, at which ceremony the young
+Prince disdainfully asserted he was higher in rank than his father,
+having a King for father and a Queen for mother, whereas his father
+could only claim blood royal on the mother's side.</p>
+
+<p>Edward III. here received King John of France, brought captive by the
+Black Prince. In 1535 Sir Thomas More was tried here; later there were
+many trials, the greatest of which was that of King Charles I., followed
+by that of the regicides, brought to justice and the fruit of their
+crimes in a way they had not expected when they took prominent parts in
+the first great drama. Cromwell's head was stuck upon the southern gable
+of the hall, where it remained for twenty years. The trial of the Seven
+Bishops caused great excitement, that of Lords Kenmure and Derwentwater
+hardly less. Lord Byron was tried in Westminster Hall, and every child
+has heard of the arraignment of Warren Hastings. Surely, if ever a
+building had memories of historic dramas, played upon its floor as on a
+stage, it is Rufus's great hall at Westminster.</p>
+
+<p>Parliament was first called to Westminster in Edward I.'s reign. The
+Commons sat for 300 years in the Abbey Chapter-house, then for 300<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+years more in St. Stephen's Chapel. In 1790 a report on the buildings
+declared them to be defective and in great danger of fire, a prophecy
+fulfilled in 1834. On the evening of October 16 in that year the wife of
+a doorkeeper saw a light under one of the doors, and gave an alarm. The
+place was made for a bonfire; a strong wind blowing from the south, and
+afterwards south-west, drove the flames along the dried woodwork and
+through the draughty passages. As the flames got a stronger and stronger
+hold, the scene from the further bank of the river was magnificent.
+Until three o'clock the next day the fire raged, and Westminster Hall
+and the crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel alone survived the wreck. The
+cause of the fire is said to have been the heating of the flues by some
+workmen burning a quantity of tallies or ancient notched sticks.</p>
+
+<p>The present Houses of Parliament, built after the fire from Sir Charles
+Barry's designs, have been the cause of much of that criticism which is
+applied to the work of some people by others who certainly could not do
+so well themselves. The material used is magnesian limestone, which,
+unfortunately, has not worn well; and the erection took seventeen years
+(1840-57). On Saturday afternoons the door under the Victoria Tower,
+south end, is open, and anyone may walk through the principal rooms.
+This is well worth doing,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> though what is to be seen is mostly modern.
+What will chiefly astonish strangers is the smallness of the House of
+Commons.</p>
+
+<p>The Clock Tower, 316 feet high, containing Big Ben, and standing at the
+north end of the present Houses of Parliament, is a notable object, and
+a landmark for miles around. Ben was called after Sir Benjamin Hall, who
+was First Commissioner of Works at the time he was brought into being.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Bridge Street was formed at the building of the bridge, and is almost on
+the site of the Long Woolstaple.</p>
+
+<p>In the reign of King Edward III., in the year 1353, Westminster was made
+one of the ten towns in England where the staple or market for wool
+might be held. This had formerly been held in Flanders, and the removal
+of the market to England brought a great increase to the Royal revenue,
+for on every sack exported the King received a certain sum. Pennant
+says: "The concourse of people which this removal of the Woolstaple to
+Westminster occasioned caused this Royal village to grow into a
+considerable town."</p>
+
+<p>Henry VI. held six wool-houses in the Staple, which he granted to the
+Dean and Canons of St. Stephen's.</p>
+
+<p>Walcott says: "On the north side of the Long Staple was a turning in a
+westerly direction lead<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>ing into the Round Staple, at the south-east end
+of the present King Street." This must have been on the site of the
+present Great George Street. An attempt was made to establish a
+fish-market here in competition with Billingsgate, but the
+pre-established interest was too strong and the fish-market was
+abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>There was a gateway at the end of the Staple. This was still in
+existence in 1741, when it was pulled down in view of the new bridge.</p>
+
+<p>There has been much dispute as to the origin of the name of Cannon Row.
+Some hold that it was derived from the prebendal houses of the Canons of
+St. Stephen's Chapel, and others that it was a corruption of Channel
+Row, from the arm of the river which entered near the spot. There were
+many noble houses here at one time. The Earl of Derby in 1552 had two
+houses, with gardens stretching to the river, granted to him by Edward
+VI.</p>
+
+<p>Anne, Duchess of Somerset, built a house here. The Marquis of Dorset's
+house gave its name to a court subsequently built on its site. In
+1556-57 the Earl of Sussex lived here, and in 1618 a later Earl of Derby
+built a house, afterwards used as the Admiralty Office. The name is
+preserved in Derby Street. The Earl of Essex, Lord Halifax, and the
+Bishop of Peterborough were all residents in this row. In the middle of
+the seventeenth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> century the Duke of Manchester, Lord Privy Seal,
+resided here also. At present the row is very dreary. The building in
+which the Civil Service examinations are held stands on the east side.
+This was erected in 1784 for the Ordnance Board, then given to the Board
+of Control, and finally to the Civil Service Commissioners.</p>
+
+<p>The Victoria Embankment was begun in 1864, and completed about six years
+later. The wall is of brick, faced with granite and founded in Portland
+cement; it looks solid enough to withstand the tides of many a hundred
+years. The parapet is of granite, decorated by cast-iron standard lamps.
+St Stephen's Club is on the Embankment, close by Westminster Bridge
+Station. Further on is the huge building of the Police Commissioners,
+known as New Scotland Yard, built in 1890 from designs of Norman Shaw,
+R.A. It is the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police Force, and the
+architecture is singularly well in keeping with its object. The building
+is of red brick, with the tower floors cased in granite. It is in the
+form of a square, built round an inner courtyard, and has an immense
+bastion at each exterior angle. Besides the offices of the police force,
+the Lost Property Office, the Public Carriage Office, and the Criminal
+Investigation Department are here. The building communicates directly by
+telephone with the Horse Guards, Houses of Parliament, British Museum,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+and other public places, and has telegraphic communication with the
+twenty-two head-offices of the Metropolitan Police district. The
+Criminal Museum is open to the public under certain conditions.</p>
+
+<p>Parliament Street and King Street have now been merged in one, and
+together have become a part of Whitehall, so that the very names will
+soon be forgotten. Yet King Street was once the direct land route to the
+Abbey and Palace from the north, and its narrow span was perforce wide
+enough for all the pageantry of funerals, coronations, and other State
+shows that passed through it. It must be remembered that King Street
+formerly ran right up to the Abbey precincts, from which it was
+separated by a gate-house, called Highgate, built by Richard II.; but
+the street was subsequently shorn of a third of its length, over which
+now grows green grass in smooth lawns. The street was very picturesque:
+"The houses rose up three and four stories high; gabled all, with
+projecting fronts, story above story, the timbers of the fronts painted
+and gilt, some of them with escutcheons hung in front, the richly
+blazoned arms brightening the narrow way." But it was also dirty: "The
+roadway was rough and full of holes; a filthy stream ran down the
+middle, all kinds of refuse were lying about." But what mattered that?
+No one went on foot who could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> possibly go by boat, and there lay the
+great highway of the river close at hand. We have said processions went
+down this street; among them we may number all the coronation
+processions up to the time when Parliament Street was cut through
+numerous small courts and by-streets in the reign of George II. Lord
+Howard of Effingham set out from King Street to fight the Spanish
+Armada. Charles I. came this way from Whitehall Palace to his trial at
+Westminster; he went back by the same route condemned to death; and
+later Cromwell's funeral procession followed the same route. Cromwell
+himself narrowly escaped assassination in this very street, where he had
+a house north of Boar's Head Yard. The story is told that he was in his
+state carriage, but owing to the crowd and narrow street he was
+separated from his guard. Suddenly Lord Broghill, who was with him, saw
+the door of a cobbler's stall open and shut, while something glittered
+behind it. He therefore got out of the carriage and hammered at the door
+with his scabbard, when a tall man, armed with a sword, rushed out and
+made his escape.</p>
+
+<p>Anne Oldfield was apprenticed to a seamstress in King Street. Sir Henry
+Wootton also lived here; and Ben Jonson says that Spenser died here for
+"lack of bread," and that the Earl of Essex sent him "20 pieces" on
+hearing of his poverty,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> but the poet refused them, saying they came too
+late. Fletcher wrote of him: "Poorly, poor man, he lived; poorly, poor
+man, he died." But it seems hardly credible he was so badly off as to be
+destitute, for he was at the time a pensioner of the Crown. Thomas Carew
+the poet lived in King Street. Most of the taverns in Westminster seem
+to have clustered about this street; we have the names of the Bell, the
+Boar's Head, and the Rhenish Wine House still handed down as places of
+importance. There were innumerable courts and alleys opening out of King
+Street. On the west, south of Downing Street, were Axe Yard, Sea Alley,
+Bell Yard, Antelope Alley. Gardener's Lane ran parallel with Charles
+Street; here Hollar the engraver died in extreme poverty in 1677.</p>
+
+<p>At the north end of King Street stood a second gate, called the King's
+Gate, and sometimes the Cockpit Gate. It stood at the corner of what is
+now Downing Street. It had four domed towers; on the south side were
+pilasters and an entablature enriched with the double rose, the
+portcullis, and the royal arms. The gate was removed in 1723.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1605 a solemn function took place in which the gate played a
+part:</p>
+
+<p>"On January 4, 1605, when Prince Charles, Duke of Albany, then only four
+years old, was to be created Knight of the Bath, his esquires, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+Earls of Oxford and Essex, with eleven noblemen who were to share in the
+honour, tooke their lodgings in the first Gate-house going to
+King's-streete, where they were all after supper, at which they sat by
+degrees, a row on the one side, with the armes of every of them over the
+seate where he was placed; and lodged upon severall pallets in one
+chamber, with their armes likewise over them, having their bathes
+provided for them in the chamber underneath. The next morning they went
+about through the gallory downe into the Parke in their hermits' weedes,
+the musitions playing, and the heralds going before them into The Court,
+and so into the Chapell, and there after solemn courtesies, like to the
+Knights of the Garter, first to the Altar, and then to the Cloath of
+Estate, every one took his place in the stalles of the Quier" (Walcott,
+p. 58).</p>
+
+<p>Great George Street, made 1750&mdash;at the same time as the Bridge, Bridge
+Street, etc.&mdash;contains the Institution of Civil Engineers, a fine
+building, and at the west end is Delahay Street, once Duke Street, a
+very fashionable locality in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
+The poet Matthew Prior lived here, and Bishop Stillingfleet died here in
+1699. Duke Street Chapel, recently pulled down, was a very well-known
+place; it was originally part of a house, overlooking the park built by
+Judge Jeffreys, and the steps into the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> park at Chapel Place were made
+for Jeffreys' special convenience. In this wing of his house he
+sometimes heard cases, and it was later made into a chapel for private
+subscribers. Jeffreys' house was also used for a time as the Admiralty
+Office. In Delahay Street may be noted the west end of the Boar's Head
+Court, marking the spot where Cromwell's house stood. The space between
+Great George Street and Charles Street will soon be covered by
+Government offices, now in course of erection. When Parliament Street
+was made it effaced Clinker's Court, White Horse Yard, Lady's Alley,
+Stephen's Alley, Rhenish Wine Yard, Brewers' Yard, and Pensioners'
+Alley&mdash;some of the slums which had sprung up outside the Abbey
+precincts. Now Parliament Street in its turn is effaced, swallowed up in
+an extended Whitehall. King Street has been completely swept away, as
+one sweeps a row of crumbs from a cloth, but the part it played in the
+ancient history of Westminster is not yet forgotten. Undoubtedly the
+change could be justified: the thoroughfare is an important one, the
+view as now seen from the direction of Charing Cross one of the finest
+in the world; yet to gain it we have had to give, and one wonders
+sometimes whether the gain counterbalances the loss.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the now vacant space on the north are the great group of
+Government offices, the Home<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> and Colonial Offices facing Parliament
+Street, and behind them the India and the Foreign Offices. Above Downing
+Street there are others, the Privy Council Office and the Treasury.</p>
+
+<p>Downing Street is called after George Downing, an American Ambassador to
+the Hague under Cromwell and in Charles II.'s reign. John Boyle, Earl of
+Cork and Ossory and the last Earl of Oxford, lived here. Boswell
+occupied a house in Downing Street in 1763. But the street is chiefly
+associated with the official residence of the First Lord of the
+Treasury. Sir Robert Walpole accepted this house from George II. on
+condition it should belong to his successors in office for ever.</p>
+
+<p>On the east side, nearly opposite Downing Street, Richmond Terrace
+stands on the site of the Duke of Richmond's house, burnt down in 1790.
+Beyond Richmond Terrace is Montagu House, the town residence of the Duke
+of Buccleuch; the present building, which is of stone, in the Italian
+style, dates from the middle of the nineteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond, again, are Whitehall Gardens, on part of the site of the Privy
+Gardens, belonging to Whitehall Palace. There is now a row of fine
+houses overlooking the Embankment and the Gardens. One of these was the
+residence of Sir Robert Peel. A great gallery of sculpture formerly
+extended along this part of the Embankment. It was partly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> destroyed in
+1778, and wholly burnt down some years later. Gwydyr House, a sombre
+brick building with heavy stone facings over the central window and
+doorway is now occupied by the Charity Commission; it was built by Adam.
+Adjoining it is a new building with an angle tower and cupola; this
+belongs to the Royal United Service Institute, and next door to it is
+the banqueting-hall, now used as the United Service Museum. This is the
+only fragment left of Whitehall Palace, and is described in detail on p.
+<a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The gatehouse known as the Holbein Gate stood across Whitehall a little
+south of the banqueting-hall. It was the third, and the most magnificent
+of those which previously stood in Westminster, and was built by Henry
+VIII. after the design of Holbein. It is said that one of the chambers
+was Holbein's studio. Later it was used as a State Paper Office, and was
+removed in 1750 to widen the street. It was intended to rebuild it in
+Windsor Park, but this design was never carried out; though various
+fragments of it were afterwards worked into other buildings.</p>
+
+<p>It is a pity that it vanished, for it would have been a fine relic of
+the Tudor times, with its high angular towers and its elaborate
+decoration. It had a large central entrance and two smaller doorways
+beneath the towers. The brickwork was in diaper pattern, and the front
+ornamented with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> busts in niches&mdash;altogether a very elaborate piece of
+work.</p>
+
+
+<h3>WHITEHALL PALACE.</h3>
+
+<p>Hubert de Burgh bequeathed a house on this site to the Dominican Friars
+in the thirteenth century, and they sold it to the Archbishop of York.
+For 250 years it was the town-house of the Archbishops of that see, and
+when Wolsey became Archbishop he entered into his official residence
+with the intention of beautifying and enlarging it greatly; he had a
+passion for display, a quality which perhaps cost him more than he was
+ever aware of. It was a dangerous thing to build or rebuild great
+mansions close to the palace of so jealous a King as Henry VIII. It was
+especially dangerous to do so at Whitehall, because, as has been already
+shown, the King lived at Westminster in a congeries of old buildings
+more or less dilapidated and inconvenient. Wolsey's fall was doubtless
+hastened by his master's covetousness, and after it, by agreement with
+the Chapter of York, the King had the house conveyed to himself. Up to
+this time it had been known as York Place, but was henceforth Whitehall.
+At Anne Boleyn's coronation in the Abbey, the Royal party came to and
+from Whitehall.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"You must no more call it York Place&mdash;that is past<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For, since the Cardinal fell, that title's lost;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">'Tis now the King's and call'd Whitehall."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 16em;">
+'<i>King Henry VIII.</i>,' Act IV.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It must be remembered that there was then no Parliament Street, and the
+palace buildings occupied all the ground from Old Scotland Yard to
+Downing Street, from St. James's Park to the river. King Henry added
+very much to the land belonging to the palace, also to the buildings. He
+was fond of sport, and his additions show his tastes in this direction;
+he built a tennis-court, a tilt-yard,&mdash;on the site of the Horse
+Guards&mdash;a bowling-green, and a cockpit. The exact site of the cockpit
+has long been a matter of uncertainty, but it is now very generally
+believed that the entrance was just where the present Treasury entrance
+is.</p>
+
+<p>The palace does not seem to have been very homogeneous; it contained
+three courts, including Old Scotland Yard, in which was the Guard House.
+The King and Queen occupied the first court, where was what remained of
+old York House; here also was the great Hall, the Presence Chamber, and
+the Banqueting House. In the second court was the way to the Audience
+and Council Chambers, the Chapel, the offices of the Palace, and the
+Watergate.</p>
+
+<p>Henry VIII. died in this palace, and all the noble names of his and the
+succeeding reigns seem to haunt the site of the now vanished building.
+Here came Sir Thomas More, Erasmus and Thomas Cromwell; Holbein occupied
+a set of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> apartments, and received a salary of 200 florins for painting
+and decorating the rooms. Here are the ghosts of Cranmer, Katharine of
+Aragon, Jane Seymour, Latimer and Ridley; later we see a courtlier
+gathering&mdash;Cecil, Essex, Leicester, Raleigh, Drake, Walsingham, Philip
+Sydney. So true it is, the King doth make the Court. Some time later, in
+the reign of Charles II., we have a different class of men
+altogether&mdash;Monk, Clarendon, Sedley, Rochester, Wycherley, Dryden,
+Butler, Suckling, Carew. Here came crowds to be touched for the King's
+evil. Here the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth implored pardon at his
+uncle's feet in vain. Whitehall was also the home of the short-lived
+masque, a form of entertainment extremely costly.</p>
+
+<p>In 1691 a fire broke out, and all the buildings between the stone
+gallery and the river were burned down, and six years later another fire
+finished nearly all that the first had left.</p>
+
+<p>Inigo Jones prepared plans for a new palace that should eclipse the old,
+and his designs lacked not anything on the side of magnificence; if the
+palace had been built as he designed, it would have exceeded in
+splendour any building now in London, but he did not finish it. Like
+William Rufus with Westminster Palace, like many another architect, his
+plans demanded more than his allotted span of years, and before he could
+do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> more than put his imagination upon paper, and realize but a fragment
+of it in stone, he was called away from a world dependent on the "work
+of men's hands."</p>
+
+<p>The fragment he has left us still stands; it was to be the
+banqueting-hall, but no Royal banquets were held there; it was used as a
+Chapel Royal for many years, and is now the home of the United Service
+Museum. For the magnificent ceiling painted by Rubens we are indebted to
+Charles I., who also designed to have the walls painted by Vandyck, a
+still more costly operation, which was never carried out. The
+weathercock on the north end was put up by order of James II., so that
+he might see whether the wind was for or against the dreaded Dutch
+fleet. The building has one association never to be forgotten. On that
+black day when England shamed herself before the nations by spilling the
+blood of her King, the scaffold was erected before this building, though
+the exact site is unknown. It is believed that the window second from
+the north end is that in front of which it stood, and that the King
+stepped forth from a window in a small outbuilding on the north side; he
+came forth to die, the only innocent man in all that great crowd, who
+watched him suffer without raising a finger to save him. At that time
+the present windows were not glazed, but walled in. William III. talked
+of rebuilding the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> palace, but he died too soon. Queen Anne went to St.
+James's, and Whitehall was never rebuilt.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The Horse Guards is almost directly opposite the Banqueting House, and
+stands on the site of an old house for the Gentlemen Pensioners who
+formed the guard when there was not a standing army in England. This
+itself superseded the tilt-yard built by King Henry VIII., though the
+actual yard was the wide space at the back of the building, which still
+witnesses the trooping of the colours and other ceremonies on state
+occasions. It is interesting to notice that the words "Tilt-yard Guards"
+still occur in the regulations hung up inside the sentry-boxes where the
+magnificent sentries keep guard, to the wonder and admiration of every
+small boy who passes.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of St. James's Park is now included in the City of
+Westminster, but only the south-east part is in the parish of St.
+Margaret's, which we are now considering. The remainder will be found
+described in the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, which is included
+in the electoral district of the Strand in the same series. In "The
+Strand District" there are also full accounts of St. James's Palace, and
+of Buckingham Palace.</p>
+
+<p>The spot now known as St. James's Park was once a dismal marshy field.
+In 1531 Henry VIII. obtained some of the land from the Abbey of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+Westminster, and in the following year he proceeded to erect what is now
+St. James's Palace, on the site of a former leper hospital. The park,
+however, seems to have remained in a desolate condition until the reign
+of James I., who took a great interest in it, and established a
+menagerie here which he often visited. The popularity of the park
+continued throughout the Stuart period. Charles II. after the
+Restoration employed a Frenchman, Le N&ocirc;tre, to lay out the grounds, and
+under his advice the canal was formed from the chain of pools that
+spread across the low-lying ground, and also a decoy, where ducks and
+wildfowl resorted. Rosamund's Pond, an oblong pool, lay at the
+south-west end of the canal. Of the origin of this name there is no
+record, though Rosamund's land is mentioned as early as 1531. A new Mall
+was laid out soon after the Restoration, and preserved with great care.
+Powdered cockleshells were sprinkled over the earth to keep it firm. As
+the game of pall-mall went out of fashion the Mall became a promenade,
+and was the resort of the Court. A pheasant-walk was also formed where
+Marlborough House now stands. There are two ancient views of the park
+extant, in one of which the heads of Cromwell, Ireton and Bradshaw stuck
+upon poles at the end of Westminster Hall are visible, and in the other,
+a figure walking in the foreground is supposed to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> Charles II.
+himself. The park was not opened to the public at this time, but those
+whose houses bordered it appear to have been allowed free entrance.
+Milton, the poet, certainly strolled here from his house in Petty
+France.</p>
+
+<p>Charles II. himself frequently used it, and kept his pet animals here,
+and the lords and ladies of his time made it their fashionable
+rendezvous. The park is mentioned constantly by Pepys and Evelyn. A
+couple of oaks planted by Charles from acorns brought from Boscobel
+survived until 1833, when they were blown down.</p>
+
+<p>The origin of the name of Birdcage Walk has been disputed. It has been
+derived from "boccage," meaning avenue; another account says it was from
+the bird-cages of the King's aviary, which were hung in the trees. This
+seems more probable.</p>
+
+<p>For many reigns St. James's Park continued to be a fashionable place of
+resort. In 1770 Rosamund's Pond was filled up, and the moat round Duck
+Island was filled in. In 1779 a gentleman was killed in a duel in the
+park.</p>
+
+<p>In 1827-29 the park was finally laid out and the canal converted into a
+piece of ornamental water under the superintendence of Nash. In 1857 the
+lake was cleared out to a uniform depth of four feet and the present
+bridge erected, and the park became something like what we see at the
+present time. The vicinity of Marlborough House and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> Buckingham Palace
+still give it a certain distinction, but it cannot be called in any
+sense fashionable, as it was in the later Stuart times. And in the midst
+of the park we must take leave of our present district, having rambled
+within its borders east and west, north and south, and having met in the
+process the ghosts of kings and queens, of statesmen and authors, of men
+of the Court and men of the Church, those who have made history in the
+past and laid the foundations for the glory of the future.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li><a name="Abbey" id="Abbey"></a>Abbey, The, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Almonry, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+<li>Almshouses:</li>
+<li><ul class="IX"><li>  Butler's, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>  Henry VII.'s, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>  Hill's, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>  Palmer's, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>  Vandon's, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Antelope Alley, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Aquarium, The, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Artillery Row, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Ashburnham House, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Atterbury, Bishop, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Axe Yard, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Banqueting-hall, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+<li>Barton Street, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Bell Yard, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Bentham, Jeremy, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Betterton, Thomas, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Big Ben, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Birdcage Walk, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+<li>Black Horse Yard, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Blood, Colonel, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Boar's Head Court, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Boswell, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Bowring, Sir John, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Brewers' Yard, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Bridewell, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Bridge Street, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Broad and Little Sanctuary, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Broadway, The, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Burke, Edmund, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Busby, Dr., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Cannon Row, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Capel, Lord, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Carew, Thomas, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Castle Lane, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Caxton, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Caxton Street, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Chapel Street, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Charles I., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+<li>Charles II., <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li>Chaucer, Geoffrey, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Churches:</li>
+<li><ul class="IX"><li>  St. Ann's Chapel, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>  Cathedral (Roman Catholic), <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>  Chapel Royal, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+<li>  Christ Church, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>  Duke Street Chapel, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>  Guards' Chapel, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>  St. John the Evangelist, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>  St. Margaret's, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+<li>  St. Mary's, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>  St. Matthew's, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>  New Chapel, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>  St. Stephen's, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>  St. Stephen's Chapel, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>  Westminster Abbey, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>  Westminster Chapel, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li></ul></li>
+<li>Church House, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Church Street, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Clinker's Court, <a href="#Page_82">82</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></li>
+<li>"Clochard," <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Clock Tower, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Cockpit, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Cock public-house, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Commons, The, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Cowley, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Cowper, Thomas, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Dacre, Lady, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Delahay Street, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Derby, Earl of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Derwentwater, Lord, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Dorset, Marquis of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Douglas, Earl, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Douglas, Sir William, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Douglas Street, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Downing, George, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Downing Street, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Dryden, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Duck Lane, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>Duke Street, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Edward V., <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Eliot, Sir John, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Essex, Earl of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Free Library, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Gardener's Lane, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Gatehouse, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Gibbon, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Glover, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Great College Street, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Great George Street, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Great Peter Street, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Great Queen Street, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Great St. Ann's Lane, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Great Smith Street, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Greycoat Place, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Grosvenor Road, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Guildhall, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Gwydyr House, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Halifax, Lord, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Hamilton, Duke of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Hampden, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Hastings, Warren, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Hazlitt, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Herrick, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>High Gate, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Holbein Gate, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Holland, Earl of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Hollar, the engraver, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Home and Colonial Offices, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Horseferry Road, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Horse Guards, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Hospitals:</li>
+<li><ul class="IX"><li>  Coldstream Guards, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>  Emanuel, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>  Grenadier Guards, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+<li>  Grosvenor Hospital for Women &amp; Children, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>  Scots Guards, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>  Westminster, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Houses of Parliament, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Howard, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Howard of Effingham, Lord, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Hudson, Sir Jeffrey, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>India and Foreign Offices, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Institution of Civil Engineers, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Jeffreys, Judge, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>John, King of France, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Jonson, Ben, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Keats, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Kenmure, Lord, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Kennet, Dr. White, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>King's Gate, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>King's House, <a href="#Page_70">70</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></li>
+<li>King's slaughter-house, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>King Street, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Lady's Alley, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Leighton, Alexander, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Lewisham Street, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Liddell, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Lilly, the astrologer, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Litlington, Abbot, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+<li>Little Chapel Street, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Little College Street, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Little George Street, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Little Peter Street, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Little Queen Street, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Little Smith Street, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Long Ditch, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Long Lane, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Lovelace, Colonel, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+<li>Lovelace, Thomas, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Manchester, Duke of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Marlborough House, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li>Marsham Street, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Marvell, Andrew, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Millbank Penitentiary, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Millbank Street, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Mill, James, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Milton, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+<li>Montagu House, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Monuments. <i>See <a href="#Abbey">Abbey</a></i></li>
+<li>More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>New Palace Yard, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>New Scotland Yard, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Oates, Titus, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Oldfield, Anne, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Old Palace Yard, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Old Pye Street, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Old Rochester Row, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Orchard Street, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Page, Robert, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Palace Hotel, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Palmer's Passage, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Palmer's Village, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>Parker Street, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Parliament Street, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Peabody's Buildings, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Peel, Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Pensioners' Alley, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Pest-houses, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Peterborough, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Peterborough House, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Petty France, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Prince's Street, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Prior, Matthew, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Privy Council Office, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Privy Gardens, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Public Baths and Wash-houses, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Purcell, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Pye, Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Pye Street, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Queen Anne's Bounty Office, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Queen Anne's Gate, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Queen Anne's Mansions, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Queen Square, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Raleigh, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Rhenish Wine Yard, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Richmond Terrace, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Rochester Row, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+<li>Romney Street, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Royal Architectural Museum, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Royal Maundy, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+<li>Royal United Service Institute, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Russell, Lord John, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Sanctuary, The, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Sanquire, Lord, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Savage, Richard, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></li>
+<li>Schools:</li>
+<li><ul class="IX"><li>   Bluecoat, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+<li>   Greencoat, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>   Greycoat, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>   Medical, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>   St. Andrew's, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>   United Westminster, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>   Westminster, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Sea Alley, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Seven Bishops, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Smith Square, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Southerne, Thomas, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Spenser, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Stafford Place, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Stafford, Viscount, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Stanley, Dean, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>St. Ann's Street, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Stationary Office, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Steele, Sir Richard, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Stephen's Alley, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>St. Ermin's Mansions, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>St. James's Park, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>St. John's Burial-ground, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>St. John's snuff-box, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>St. Margaret's loving-cup, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>St. Matthew's Street, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Stourton Street, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Strutton Ground, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>St. Stephen's Club, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Stubbs, John, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Sussex, Earl of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Tart Hall, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Tate Gallery, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Taverns, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Thieving Lane, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Thorne, Mr., <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Thorney, the Isle of Bramble, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+<li>Tothill Fields, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Tothill Fields Prison, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Tothill Street, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Town Hall, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Treasury, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Tufton Street, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>Turpin, Dick, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Union Street, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Vandon, Cornelius, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Vauxhall Bridge Road, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Victoria Embankment, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Victoria Public Garden, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Victoria Street, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>Victoria Tower, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Vincent Square, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Walcott, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+<li>Waller, Sir William, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Walpole, Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Warbeck, Perkin, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Watney's Brewery, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Wellington Barracks, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Wesley, Charles, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Wesley, John, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+<li>Westminster Bridge Station, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+<li>Westminster Hall, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li><i>Westminster Review</i>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Westminster School, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>Whitehall Gardens, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Whitehall Palace, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>White Horse Yard, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Wilberforce, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Woffington, Peg, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li>Wolsey, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Woolstaple, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Wootton, Sir Henry, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>York, Archbishop of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>York Street, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li></ul>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style='width: 65%;' />
+
+<p class='center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;">
+<a name="map" id="map"></a>
+<a href="images/image_003.jpg"><img src="images/thumb_image_003.jpg" width="384" height="600" alt="WESTMINSTER DISTRICT" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">WESTMINSTER DISTRICT
+<br />
+Published by A. &amp; C. Black, London.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Westminster, by 
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton and A. Murray Smith
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTMINSTER ***
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+</body>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Westminster, by
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton and A. Murray Smith
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Westminster
+       The Fascination of London
+
+Author: Sir Walter Besant
+        Geraldine Edith Mitton
+        A. Murray Smith
+
+Release Date: May 31, 2007 [EBook #21648]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTMINSTER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE FASCINATION
+   OF LONDON
+
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+
+
+
+_IN THIS SERIES._
+
+Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+THE STRAND DISTRICT.
+
+By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON.
+
+
+HAMPSTEAD.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+CHELSEA.
+
+By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WHITEHALL IN 1775.]
+
+
+
+
+The Fascination of London
+
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+
+BY
+SIR WALTER BESANT
+AND
+G. E. MITTON
+
+
+WITH A CHAPTER ON THE ABBEY BY MRS. A. MURRAY SMITH
+
+
+LONDON
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+1902
+
+
+
+
+PREFATORY NOTE
+
+
+A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should
+preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her
+mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that
+Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the
+past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he
+died.
+
+As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything
+else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted
+before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I
+find something fresh in it every day."
+
+He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace,
+but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He
+died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes
+on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of
+the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city
+practically unique, and exceptionally interesting, compiled by one who
+had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to
+make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir
+Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting,"
+will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken
+the publication of the Survey.
+
+Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and
+systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the
+history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very
+original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the
+keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its
+issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is
+proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and
+publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local
+inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and
+the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose
+Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for
+publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date.
+
+The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great,
+for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying
+charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history
+with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her
+history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the
+series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain.
+The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who
+loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him,
+and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links
+between past and present in themselves largely constitute The
+Fascination of London.
+
+G. E. M.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+PREFATORY NOTE                                                         v
+
+PART I
+SOUTH OF VICTORIA STREET                                               1
+
+PART II
+NORTH OF VICTORIA STREET                                              24
+
+PART III
+THE HEART OF WESTMINSTER                                              40
+
+INDEX                                                                 93
+
+_Map at end of Volume._
+
+
+
+
+WESTMINSTER
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+SOUTH OF VICTORIA STREET.
+
+
+The word Westminster used in the title does not mean that city which has
+its boundaries stretching from Oxford Street to the river, from the
+Broad Walk, Kensington Gardens, to Temple Bar. A city which embraces the
+parishes of St. George's, Hanover Square; St. James's, Piccadilly; St.
+Anne's, Soho; St. Paul's, Covent Garden; St. Clement Danes; St. Mary le
+Strand, etc.; and which claims to be older even than London, dating its
+first charter from the reign of King Edgar. But, rather, Westminster in
+its colloquial sense, that part of the city which lies within the
+parishes of St. Margaret and St. John. When anyone says, 'I am going to
+Westminster,' or, 'I am staying in Westminster,' it is this district
+that he means to indicate.
+
+The parishes of St. Margaret and St. John include the land bounded on
+one side by the river; on another by a line running through the Horse
+Guards and diagonally across St. James's Park to Buckingham Gate; and on
+the third by an irregular line which crosses Victoria Street to the west
+of Carlisle Place, and subsequently cuts across the Vauxhall Bridge Road
+near Francis Street, and, continuing at a slight angle to the course of
+the Bridge Road, strikes the river at a spot beyond the gasworks between
+Pulford Terrace and Bessborough Place. There is also another piece of
+land belonging to St. Margaret's parish; this lies detached, and
+includes part of Kensington Gardens and the Round Pond; but it is only
+mentioned to show it has not been overlooked, for the present account
+will not deal with it. The triangular space roughly indicated above is
+sufficient for one ramble.
+
+Within this space stand, and have stood, so many magnificent buildings
+closely connected with the annals of England that Westminster may well
+claim to occupy a unique place in the history of the nation. The effects
+of two such buildings as the Abbey and Palace upon its population were
+striking and unique.
+
+The right of sanctuary possessed by the Abbey drew thieves, villains,
+and rogues of all kinds to its precincts. The Court drew to the Palace a
+crowd of hangers-on, attendants, artificers, work-people, etc. When the
+Court was migratory this great horde swept over Westminster at
+intervals like a wave, and made a floating population. In the days of
+"touching" for "King's evil," when the Court was held at Whitehall, vast
+crowds of diseased persons gathered to Westminster to be touched. In
+Charles II.'s time weekly sittings were appointed at which the number of
+applicants was not to exceed 200. Between 1660-64, 23,601 persons were
+"touched." Later, when the roads were still too bad to be traversed
+without danger, many of the members of Parliament lodged in Westminster
+while the House was sitting. Therefore, from the earliest date, when
+bands of travellers and merchants came down the great north road, and
+passed through the marshes of Westminster to the ferry, until the
+beginning of the present century, there has always been a floating
+element mingling with the stationary inhabitants of the parishes.
+
+The history of Westminster itself is entwined with these two great
+foundations, the Abbey and the Palace, which will be found described in
+detail respectively at pp. 45 and 71.
+
+
+DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT.
+
+The perambulation of Westminster, undertaken street by street, differs
+from that made at Chelsea or elsewhere by reason of the great buildings
+aforementioned, which are centres of interest and require particular
+notice. These will be dealt with as they occur, and so interesting are
+they that they cause the street associations to sink into a position of
+secondary importance.
+
+Beginning at the least interesting end of Westminster--that is to say,
+the west end of Victoria Street--there are not many objects of interest
+apparent. Victoria Street was in 1852 cut through nests of alleys and
+dirty courts, including a colony of almshouses, cottages, chapel, and
+school, known as Palmer's Village. The solid uniform buildings on either
+side of the street have a very sombre aspect; they are mainly used for
+offices. There is still some waste ground lying to the south of Victoria
+Street, in spite of the great Roman Catholic Cathedral, begun in 1895,
+which covers a vast area. The material is red brick with facings of
+stone, and the style Byzantine, the model set being the "early Christian
+basilica in its plenitude." The high campanile tower, which is already
+seen all over London, is a striking feature in a building quite
+dissimilar from those to which we in England are accustomed. The great
+entrance at the west end has an arch of forty feet span, and encloses
+three doorways, of which the central one is only to be used on solemn
+occasions by the Archbishop. One feature of the interior decoration will
+be the mosaic pictures in the marble panels. The building is still
+incomplete, and not open to the public. It stands on the site of Tothill
+Fields Prison, which was considered to be one of the finest specimens of
+brickwork in the country, and cost the nation L200,000, but has now
+completely vanished. It resembled a fortress; the entrance, which stood
+in Francis Street, was composed of massive granite blocks, and had a
+portcullis. The prison took the place of a Bridewell or House of
+Correction near, built in 1622; but in spite of the vast sum of money
+spent upon it, it lasted only twenty years (1834-54).
+
+The fire-station and Western District Post-Office also occupy part of
+the same site. The extension of the Army and Navy Stores stands on the
+site of the Greencoat School, demolished in 1877. Certain gentlemen
+founded this school; in Charles I.'s reign it was constituted "a body
+politic and corporate," and the seal bears date 1636. The lads wore a
+long green skirt, bound round with a red girdle. In 1874, when the
+United Westminster Schools were formed from the amalgamation of the
+various school charities of Westminster, the work was begun here, but
+three years later the boys were removed to the new buildings in Palace
+Street. The old school buildings were very picturesque. They stood round
+a quadrangle, and the Master's house faced the entrance, and was
+decorated with a bust of King Charles and the royal arms. In the
+wainscoted board-room hung portraits of King Charles I. by Vandyck, and
+King Charles II. by Lely.
+
+The name of Artillery Row is connected with the artillery practice at
+the butts, which stood near here in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. At the
+end, if we turn to the left, we come into Old Rochester Row, and so to
+Greycoat Place, in which stands the Greycoat Hospital. This building,
+one of the few old ones left in the parish, has a red-tiled roof and
+dormer windows, projecting eaves and heavy window-frames. Two wings
+enclose a courtyard, which is below the level of the road. Above the
+central porch, in niches, are the figures of a boy and girl in the
+old-fashioned Greycoat garb. In the centre are the Royal arms of Queen
+Anne, and a turret with clock and vane surmounts the roof.
+
+This hospital was founded in 1698 for the education of seventy poor boys
+and forty poor girls. In 1706, by letters patent of Queen Anne, the
+trustees were constituted a body 'politic and corporate.' In this year
+also the school was established in the present quaint building, which
+had been a workhouse, perhaps that referred to in the vestry reports of
+1664 as the "new workhouse in Tuttle ffields."
+
+The boys then wore a long gray skirt and girdle, something similar to
+the Christ's Hospital uniform, and the girls a dress of gray. The
+hospital originated in the charity of the parishioners. Various
+additions have since been made to the building, and class-rooms have
+been added. The older class-rooms and board-room are wainscoted. In the
+latter are oil-paintings of Queen Anne, Bishops Compton and Smalridge
+(of Bristol), and various governors. The corporate seal represents two
+male figures tending a young sapling, a reference to 1 Cor. vii. 8. An
+old organ, contemporary with the date of the establishment, and a
+massive Bible and Prayer-Book, are among the most interesting relics.
+The latter, dated 1706, contains the "Prayer for the Healing" at the
+King's touch.
+
+The hospital is a very wealthy foundation, and is able to support the
+strain of its immense expenses without difficulty. The governors have
+recently erected a row of red-brick flats to the west of the garden,
+which will further augment the income. The garden is charming with
+flower-beds and grass plots, while the vine and the ampelopsis climb
+over the old building.
+
+Rochester Row owes its name to the connection of the See of Rochester
+with the Deanery of Westminster, which continued through nine successive
+incumbencies. The row was considered by the Dean and Chapter as a
+private thoroughfare until the beginning of the present century, but
+they had no reason to be proud of it. A filthy ditch caused much
+complaint; even in 1837 the state of the row was described as "shameful
+and dangerous." At the north-east end stood the parish pound-house. St.
+Stephen's Church and Schools are handsome, in a decorated Gothic style,
+and were built in 1847 by Ferrey, at the cost of the Baroness
+Burdett-Coutts. The spire rises to a height of 200 feet.
+
+Immediately opposite, two neat rows of almshouses, in red brick, face
+one another; on the exterior wall of each wing is the half-length effigy
+of a man in a niche. Beneath that on the northern wing is the
+inscription: "Mr. Emery Hill, late of the parish of St. Margaret's,
+Westminster, founded these almshouses Anno Domini 1708. Christian
+Reader, in Hopes of thy Assistance." On each side similar inscriptions
+commemorate donations.
+
+On the southern wing the slab beneath the figure bears the words: "Rev.
+James Palmer founded almshouses in Palmer's Passage for six poor old men
+and six poor old women Anno Domini 1856; re-erected here, 1881"; and a
+further record: "Mr. Nicholas Butler founded the almshouses in Little
+Chapel Street, near Palmer's Passage, for two of the most ancient
+couples of the best repute, Anno Domini 1675; re-erected here 1881."
+These are the Westminster United Almshouses. They were consolidated by
+an order of the Charity Commission, dated July 11, 1879. The Grenadier
+Guards Hospital is further down the row on the same side.
+
+Vincent Square is the Westminster School playground. This space, of
+about ten acres of land, has been the subject of much dispute between
+the Dean and Chapter and the parish. It was first marked out as a
+playground in 1810, but not enclosed by railings until 1842. Dr.
+Vincent, Headmaster of the school and formerly Dean of Westminster, took
+the lead in the matter, and the enclosure is therefore named after him.
+The ground is now levelled, and forms magnificent playing-fields; from
+the south end there is a fine view of many-towered Westminster. The
+hospital of the Coldstream Guards is in one corner of the Square, and
+next to it the Westminster Police Court. St. Mary's Church and Schools
+are on the south side. The Grosvenor Hospital for Women and Children is
+in Douglas Street close by. This originated in a dispensary in 1865.
+
+The ground in the parish already traversed corresponds roughly with that
+occupied by the once well-known Tothill Fields. Older writers call this
+indifferently Tuthill, Totehill, Tootehill, but more generally Tuttle.
+In Timbs' "London and Westminster" we read: "The name of Tot is the old
+British word Tent (the German Tulsio), god of wayfarers and
+merchants.... Sacred stones were set up on heights, hence called
+Tothills." If ever there were a hill at Tothill Fields, it must have
+been a very slight one, and in this case it may have been carted away to
+raise the level elsewhere. We know that St. John's burial-ground was
+twice covered with three feet of soil, and in the parish accounts we
+read of gravel being carted from Tothill. The greater part of the ground
+in any case can have been only low-lying, for large marshy pools
+remained until comparatively recent times, one of which was known as the
+Scholars' Pond. Dean Stanley has aptly termed these fields the
+Smithfield of West London. Here everything took place which required an
+open space--combats, tournaments, and fairs.
+
+In a map of the middle of the eighteenth century we see a few scattered
+houses lying to the south of Horseferry Road just below the bend, and
+Rochester Row stretching like an arm out into the open ground. Two of
+the great marshy pools are also marked. If all accounts are to be
+believed, this spot was noted for its fertility and the beauty of its
+wild-flowers. From Strype's Survey we learn that the fields supplied
+London and Westminster with "asparagus, artichokes, cauliflowers and
+musk melons." The author of "Parochial Memorials" says that the names of
+Orchard Street, Pear Street and Vine Street are reminiscent of the
+cultivation of fruit in Westminster, but these names more probably have
+reference to the Abbot's garden. Walcott says that Tothill Fields,
+before the Statute of Restraints, was considered to be within the limits
+of the sanctuary of the Abbey. Stow gives a long and minute account of a
+trial by battle held here. One of the earliest recorded tournaments held
+in these fields was at the coronation of Queen Eleanor in 1226.
+
+A great fair held in the fields in 1248 was a failure. All the shops and
+places of merchandise were shut during the fifteen days that it lasted,
+by the King's command, but the wind and rain ruined the project.
+
+In 1256 John Mansell, the King's Counsellor and a priest, entertained
+the Kings and Queens of England and Scotland and so many Dukes, Lords,
+and Barons, at Westminster that he had not room for them in his own
+house, but set up tents and pavilions in Tothill.
+
+In 1441 "was the fighting at the Tothill between two thefes, a pelour
+and a defendant; the pelour hadde the field, and victory of the
+defendour withinne three strokes."
+
+Both the armies of the Royalists and the Commonwealth were at different
+times paraded in these fields; of the latter, 14,000 men were here at
+one time. During 1851-52 Scottish prisoners were brought to Tothill, and
+many died there, as the churchwardens' accounts show. In the latter
+year we read the entry: "Paid to Thomas Wright for 67 load of soyle laid
+on the graves in Tuthill Fields wherein 1,200 Scotch prisoners (taken at
+the fight at Worcester) were buried."
+
+It was fifteen years later, in the time of the Great Plague, that the
+pesthouses came into full use, for we read in the parish records July
+14, 1665, "that the Churchwardens doe forthwith proceed to the making of
+an additional Provision for the reception of the Poore visited of the
+Plague, at the Pesthouse in Tuttle ffieldes." The first two cases of
+this terrible visitation occurred in Westminster, and during the
+sorrowful months that followed, in place of feasting and pageantry, the
+fields were the theatre for scenes of horror and death. The pesthouses
+were still standing in 1832.
+
+There was formerly a "maze" in Tothill Fields, which is shown in a print
+from an engraving by Hollar taken about 1650.
+
+Vauxhall Bridge Road was cut through part of the site belonging to the
+old Millbank Penitentiary. The traffic to the famous Vauxhall Gardens on
+the other side of the river once made this a very crowded thoroughfare;
+at present it is extremely dreary. The Scots Guards Hospital is on the
+west side.
+
+Turning to the left at the end in the Grosvenor Road, we soon come to
+the Tate Gallery of British Art, the magnificent gift of Sir Henry Tate
+to the nation. Besides the building, the founder gave sixty-five
+pictures to form the nucleus of a collection. This is said to be the
+first picture-gallery erected in England complete in itself; the
+architect is Sydney Smith, F.R.I.B.A., and the style adopted is a Free
+Classic, Roman with Greek feeling in the mouldings and decorations.
+There is a fine portico of six Corinthian columns terminating in a
+pediment, with the figure of Britannia at the central apex, and the lion
+and unicorn at each end. The basement, of rusticated stone, ten feet
+high, runs round the principal elevation. A broad flight of steps leads
+to the central entrance. The front elevation is about 290 feet in
+length. The vestibule immediately within the principal door leads into
+an octagonal sculpture hall, top-lighted by a glass dome. There are
+besides five picture-galleries, also top-lighted. The pictures, which
+include the work of the most famous British artists, are nearly all
+labelled with the titles and artists' names, so a catalogue is
+superfluous. The collection includes the pictures purchased by the
+Chantrey Bequest, also a gift from G. F. Watts, R.A., of twenty-three of
+his own works. The gallery is open from ten to six, and on Sundays in
+summer after two o'clock. Thursdays and Fridays are students' days.
+
+The gallery stands on the site of the old Millbank Penitentiary, for the
+scheme of which Howard the reformer was originally responsible. He was
+annoyed by the rejection of the site he advocated, however, and
+afterwards withdrew from the project altogether. Wandsworth Fields and
+Battersea Rise were both discussed as possible sites, but were
+eventually abandoned in favour of Millbank. Jeremy Bentham, who
+advocated new methods in the treatment of prisoners, gained a contract
+from the Government for the erection and management of the new prison.
+He, however, greatly exceeded the terms of his contract, and finally
+withdrew, and supervisors were appointed. The prison was a six-rayed
+building with a chapel in the centre. Each ray was pentagonal in shape,
+and had three towers on its exterior angles. The whole was surrounded by
+an octagonal wall overlooking a moat. At the closing of the prison in
+Tothill Fields it became the sole Metropolitan prison for females, "just
+as," says Major Griffiths, "it was the sole reformatory for promising
+criminals, the first receptacle for military prisoners, the great depot
+for convicts _en route_ for the antipodes."
+
+In 1843 it was called a penitentiary instead of a prison. Gradually, as
+new methods of prison architecture were evolved, Millbank was recognised
+as cumbersome and inadequate. It was doomed for many years before its
+demolition, and now, like the prison of Tothill Fields, has vanished.
+Even the convicts' burial-ground at the back of the Tate Gallery is
+nearly covered with County Council industrial dwellings.
+
+Further northward in the Grosvenor Road, Peterborough House once stood,
+facing the river, and this was at one time called "the last house in
+Westminster." It was built by the first Earl of Peterborough, and
+retained his name until 1735, when it passed to Alexander Davis of
+Ebury, whose only daughter and heiress had married Sir Thomas Grosvenor.
+It was by this marriage that the great London property came into the
+possession of the Grosvenor (Westminster) family. The house was rebuilt,
+and renamed Grosvenor House. Strype says: "The Earl of Peterborough's
+house with a large courtyard before it, and a fine garden behind, but
+its situation is but bleak in winter and not over healthful, as being
+too near the low meadows on the south and west parts." The house was
+finally demolished in 1809.
+
+Beyond, in the direction of the Houses of Parliament, there are several
+interesting old houses, of which the best specimens are Nos. 8 and 9,
+offices of the London Road Car Company, and No. 10. In the first a
+well-furnished ceiling proclaims an ancient drawing-room; in the second
+panelled walls and a spiral staircase set off a fine hall. This house
+has a beautiful doorway of the old scallop-shell pattern, with cherubs'
+heads and ornamental brackets decorating it. In the third house a
+ceiling is handsomely finished with dental mouldings, and the edges of
+the panels are all carved. A mantelpiece of white marble is very fine,
+and of great height and solidity, with a female face as the keystone.
+
+From Lambeth Bridge the Horseferry Road leads westward. This was the
+main track to the ferry in ancient days, and as the ferry was the only
+one on the Thames at London, it was consequently of great importance. It
+was here that James II. crossed after escaping from Whitehall by night,
+and from his boat he threw the Great Seal into the river. Horseferry
+Road is strictly utilitarian, and not beautiful; it passes by gasworks,
+a Roman Catholic church, Wesleyan chapel, Normal Institute and Training
+College, all of the present century. North of it Grosvenor Road becomes
+Millbank Street. The Abbot's watermill stood at the end of College
+Street (further north), and was turned by the stream which still flows
+beneath the roadway. In an old survey a mill is marked on this spot, and
+is supposed to have been built by the same Abbot Litlington who built
+the wall in College Street (1362-1386). It was still standing in 1644,
+and mention is made of it at that date in the parish books. The bank was
+a long strip of raised earth, extending from here to the site of
+Peterborough House. Strype mentions "the Millbank" as a "certain parcel
+of land valued in Edward VI.'s time at 58 shillings, and given in the
+third of his reign" to one Joanna Smith for "services rendered."
+
+Church Street (left) leads into Smith Square. Here stands the Church of
+St. John the Evangelist. This was the second of Queen Anne's fifty
+churches built by imposing a duty on coals and culm brought into the
+Port of London. The new district was formed in 1723, but the
+consecration ceremony did not take place until June 20, 1728. The
+architect was Archer, a pupil of Sir John Vanbrugh's, and the style,
+which is very peculiar, has been described as Doric. The chief features
+of the church are its four angle belfries, which were not included in
+the original scheme of the architect, but were added later to insure an
+equal pressure on the foundations. Owing to these the church has been
+unkindly compared to an elephant with its four legs up in the air!
+Another story has it that Queen Anne, being troubled in mind by much
+wearisome detail, kicked over her wooden footstool, and said, "Go, build
+me a church like that"; but this sounds apocryphal, especially in view
+of the fact that the towers were a later addition. The church is
+undoubtedly cumbrous, but has the merit of originality. In 1742 it was
+gutted by fire, and was not rebuilt for some time owing to lack of
+funds. In 1773 the roof was slightly damaged by lightning, and
+subsequently repairs and alterations have taken place. The building
+seats 1,400 persons, and a canonry of Westminster Abbey is attached to
+the living.
+
+The churchwardens of St. John's possess an interesting memento in the
+form of a snuff-box, presented in 1801 by "Thomas Gayfere, Esq., Father
+of the Vestry of St. John the Evangelist." This has been handed down to
+the succeeding office-bearers, who have enriched and enlarged it by
+successive silver plates and cases.
+
+Smith Square shows, like so much of Westminster, an odd mixture of old
+brick houses, with heavily-tiled roofs, and new brick flats of great
+height. In the south-west corner stands the Rectory. Romney and Marsham
+Streets were called after Charles Marsham, Earl of Romney. Tufton Street
+was named after Sir Richard Tufton. One of the cockpits in Westminster
+was here as late as 1815, long after the more fashionable one in St.
+James's Park had vanished. The northern part of the street between Great
+Peter and Great College Streets was formerly known as Bowling Alley.
+Here the notorious Colonel Blood lived.
+
+Near the corner of Little Smith Street stands an architectural museum;
+it is not a very large building, but the frontage is rendered
+interesting by several statues and reliefs in stone. This, to give it
+its full title, is "The Royal Architectural Museum and School of Art in
+connection with the Science and Art Department." The gallery is open
+free from ten to four daily, and in the rooms opening off its corridors
+art classes for students of both sexes are held; the walls are
+absolutely covered with ancient fragments of architecture and sculpture.
+The row of houses opposite to the museum is doomed to demolition, a
+process which has begun already at the north end. The house third from
+the south end, a small grocer's shop, is the one in which the great
+composer and musician Purcell lived. He was born in Great St. Ann's Lane
+near the Almonry, and his mother, as a widow, lived in Tothill Street.
+The boy at the very early age of six was admitted to the choir of the
+Chapel Royal, and was appointed organist to Westminster Abbey when only
+two-and-twenty, a place he very nearly lost by refusing to give up to
+the Dean and Chapter the proceeds of letting the seats in the organ-loft
+to view the coronation of James II., a windfall he considered as a
+perquisite. He is buried beneath the great organ, which had so often
+throbbed out his emotions in the sounds in which he had clothed them. On
+leaving Tufton Street he went to Marsham Street, where he died in 1695.
+The art students from the gallery now patronize the little room behind
+the shop for lunch and tea, running across in paint-covered pinafore or
+blouse, making the scene veritably Bohemian.
+
+At the north end of Tufton Street is Great College Street. Here
+dignified houses face the old wall built by Abbot Litlington. They are
+not large; some are overgrown by creepers; the street seems bathed in
+the peace of a perpetual Sunday. The stream bounding Thorney Island
+flowed over this site, and its waters still run beneath the roadway. The
+street has been associated with some names of interest. Gibbon's aunt
+had here a boarding-house for Westminster boys, in which her famous
+nephew lived for some time. Mr. Thorne, antiquary, and originator of
+_Notes and Queries_, lived here. Some of Keats' letters to Fanny Brawne
+are dated from 25 Great College Street, where he came on October 16,
+1820, to lodgings, in order to conquer his great passion by absence; but
+apparently absence had only the proverbial effect. Walcott lived here,
+and his History of St. Margaret's Church and Memorials of Westminster
+are dated from here in 1847 and 1849 respectively. Little College Street
+contains a few small, irregular houses brightened by window-boxes. A
+slab informs us that the date of Barton Street was 1722, but the row of
+quiet, flat-casemented houses looks older than that. At the west end of
+Great College Street stood the King's slaughter-house for supplying meat
+to the palace; the foundations of this were extant in 1807. The end of
+Great College Street opens out opposite the smooth lawns of the Victoria
+Public Garden, near the House of Lords.
+
+In Great Smith Street there was a turnpike at the beginning of the last
+century. Sir Richard Steele and Keats both dated letters from this
+address, and Thomas Southerne, the dramatist, died here. The northern
+part of the street was known as Dean Street until 1865; the old
+workhouse of the united parish used to stand in it. The Free Library is
+in this street. Westminster was the first Metropolitan parish to adopt
+the Library Acts. The Commissioners purchased the lease of a house,
+together with furniture, books, etc., from a Literary, Scientific, and
+Mechanics' Institute which stood on the east side of the road, a little
+to the north of the present library building, and the library was opened
+there in 1857. In 1888 the present site was purchased, and the building
+was designed by J. F. Smith, F.R.I.B.A.
+
+Dean Stanley presented 2,000 volumes of standard works in 1883, to which
+others were added by his sister, Mrs. Vaughan, to whom they had been
+left for her lifetime. The library also contains 449 valuable volumes
+published by the Record Office. These consist of Calendars of State
+Papers, Reports of the Deputy Keeper of the Public Record Office,
+Chronicles and Memorials of Great Britain and Ireland during the Middle
+Ages, and Records of Great Britain from the Reign of Edward the
+Confessor to Henry VIII. The Westminster Public Baths and Wash-houses,
+designed by the same architect are next door to the library. The Church
+House opposite is a very handsome building in a Perpendicular style; it
+is of red brick with stone dressings. The interior is very well
+furnished with fine stone and wood carving. The great hall holds 1,500
+people, and runs the whole length of the building from Smith Street to
+Tufton Street. The roof is an open timber structure of the hammer-beam
+type, typical of fourteenth-century work. Near the north end of Great
+Smith Street is Queen Anne's Bounty Office, rebuilt 1900.
+
+Orchard Street is so named from the Abbot's Orchard. John Wesley once
+lived here. In Old Pye Street a few squalid houses with low doorways
+remain to contrast with the immense flats known as Peabody's Buildings,
+which have sprung up recently. In 1862 George Peabody gave L150,000 for
+the erection of dwellings for the working classes, and to this he
+subsequently added L500,000. The first block of buildings was opened in
+Spitalfields, 1864. These in the neighbourhood of Old Pye Street were
+erected in 1882. Pye Street derives its name from Sir Robert Pye, member
+for Westminster in the time of Charles I., who married a daughter of
+John Hampden. St. Matthew Street was Duck Lane until 1864, and was a
+very malodorous quarter. Swift says it was renowned for second-hand
+bookshops. The Westminster Bluecoat School was first founded here.
+
+St. Ann's Street and Lane are poor and wretched quarters. The name is
+derived from a chapel which formerly stood on the spot (see p. 37).
+Herrick lodged in the street when, ejected from his living in the
+country in 1647, he returned with anything but reluctance to his beloved
+London. He had resumed lay dress, but was restored to his living in 1662
+in reward for his devoted loyalty to the Stuarts. The great musician,
+Henry Purcell, was born in St. Ann's Lane. Seymour, writing in 1735,
+says: "Great St. Ann's Lane, a pretty, handsome, well-built and
+well-inhabited place." St. Matthew's Church and Schools were built by
+Sir G. A. Scott in 1849-57.
+
+Great Peter Street is a dirty thoroughfare with some very old houses. On
+one is a stone slab with the words, "This is Sant Peter Street, 1624. R
+[a heart] W." This and its neighbour, Little Peter Street, obviously
+derive their names from the patron saint of the Abbey. Strype describes
+Great Peter Street pithily as "very long and indifferent broad." Great
+Peter Street runs at its west end into Strutton Ground, a quaint place
+which recalls bygone days by other things than its name, which is a
+corruption of Stourton, from Stourton House. The street is thickly lined
+by costers' barrows, and on Saturday nights there is no room to pass in
+the roadway.
+
+Before examining in detail the part that may be called the core and
+centre of Westminster, that part lying around the Abbey and Houses of
+Parliament, it is advisable to begin once more at the west end of
+Victoria Street, and, traversing the part of the parish on the north
+side, gather there what we may of history and romance.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+NORTH OF VICTORIA STREET.
+
+
+The United Westminster Schools, constituted 1873, stand on the east side
+of Palace Street. These comprise Emanuel Hospital, Greencoat School (St.
+Margaret's), Palmer's (Blackcoat School), and Hill's Grammar School. The
+building in Palace Street stands back from the road behind a space of
+green grass. Over one doorway are medallions of Palmer and Hill, and
+over the other the Royal arms, and the structure is devoid of any
+architectural attractiveness. The beauty which belonged to the older
+buildings has not been revived, but replaced by a hideous
+utilitarianism. Watney's Brewery occupies the ground opposite to the
+school. The schools of St. Andrew are in this street, and beyond is the
+Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Edward. Stafford Place is
+called after Viscount Stafford, on the site of whose garden wall it is
+said to have been built. This wall formed the parish boundary, and a boy
+was annually whipped upon it to impress the bounds upon his memory.
+
+Tart Hall, built 1638, stood at the north end of James Street. It was
+the residence of Viscount Stafford, to whom it had come from his mother
+Alethea, daughter and heiress of the seventh Earl of Shrewsbury. Lord
+Stafford was the fifth son of the Earl of Arundel and Surrey, and was
+made first a Baron and then a Viscount by Charles I. He was condemned
+for high treason on the manufactured evidence of Oates and Turberville,
+in the reign of Charles II., and was beheaded on Tower Hill, December
+29, 1680. After his execution the house was turned into a museum and
+place of public entertainment. The gateway under which he passed to his
+death was never again opened after that event, but it was left standing
+until 1737. Among the notable residents in the street were Dr. White
+Kennet, Bishop of Peterborough, an indefatigable collector of MSS., and
+Glover, the poet.
+
+The present street contains many pleasant, picturesque houses,
+especially at the northern end. At the corner of Castle Lane is the
+Westminster Chapel, the largest Independent place of worship in the
+Metropolis excepting Spurgeon's Tabernacle. It seats 2,500, and has two
+galleries, one above the other, running round the whole interior. It was
+opened in 1865 to replace a smaller chapel which had previously stood on
+the same site.
+
+Emanuel Hospital was a charming old building which stood south of the
+chapel on the same side of the street. It was founded in 1594 by Lady
+Dacre "for the relief of aged people and the bringing up of children in
+virtue and good and laudable arts, whereby they might the better live in
+time to come by their honest labour." The low range of buildings running
+round a quadrangle had tall chimneys, and the central house was
+decorated by a cupola and clock. It was the sort of place that took the
+sharpness off charity by covering it with a sheath of that dignity which
+is always to be found in antiquity.
+
+By Lady Dacre's will there were to be twenty almspeople, and each of
+them was at liberty to bring up one child. It was, however, not until
+the year 1728 that a school was first established, for before that the
+funds had been insufficient.
+
+In 1890 thirteen of the almshouses stood empty from failure of income,
+and subsequently it was resolved to demolish the almshouses and offer
+the present valuable site for building purposes. It is not the
+intention of the trustees to erect new almshouses. The charity will in
+future be entirely in money pensions known as Lady Dacre's pensions.
+
+Caxton Street was originally called Chapel Street, but was renamed in
+honour of the great printer, who lived for some years at a house in the
+Almonry, now replaced by the Westminster Palace Hotel (see p. 34).
+
+On the south side of the street is a curious little square brick
+building with the figure of a Bluecoat boy over the porch, and the
+inscription on a slab, "The Blue Coat School, built in the year 1709."
+On the back is a large painting of a similar boy and the date of
+foundation: "This School founded 1688." A small garden stretches out
+behind. The building itself contains simply one hall or classroom, which
+is decorated by an ornamental dental cornice, and has a curious inner
+portico with fluted columns over the doorway. It is supposed to have
+been built by the great Sir Christopher. The Master's house, covered
+with Virginia creeper, stands on one side of the main building.
+
+The school was first established in Duck Lane, and was instituted by
+Thomas Jekyll, D.D., one of the chaplains of the Broadway Chapel. It is
+said to have been the first school in the Metropolis supported by
+voluntary contributions. It was at first for boys only, but in 1713
+twenty girls were included in the scheme, but these were afterwards
+dispersed and only the boys retained. Westminster was exceptionally rich
+in these foundations of the charitable, both for the young and for the
+old.
+
+Further eastward, on the north side of Caxton Street, is the Medical
+School in connection with Westminster Hospital. The Town Hall stands
+close by. The foundation-stone was laid by the Baroness Burdett-Coutts.
+In the muniment-room there are preserved 3,400 records, etc., of
+exceptional interest. Here, also, are the St. Ermin's Mansions and
+Hotel, which derive their name from St. Ermin's Hill, evidently a
+corruption of Hermit's Hill, under which name the place is marked in
+some old maps.
+
+Christ Church is of considerable size. It is of the last century (1843),
+and its stumpy tower, which is incomplete, gives it an odd appearance.
+The church is on the site of the Broadway Chapel, founded by Darrell, a
+Prebendary of the Abbey, who in 1631 left L400 for its erection. Various
+subscriptions were added to this sum, including one of L100 from
+Archbishop Laud. The churchyard had been consecrated in 1626. The chapel
+was opened 1642, and saw many vicissitudes of fortune. During the Civil
+War it was used as a stable for the soldiers' horses, and at other
+times as a council-room and a prison. In the churchyard Sir William
+Waller, the Parliamentary General, is buried.
+
+York Street was named after Frederick, Duke of York, son of George II.,
+who resided here temporarily. Previously it had been called Petty
+France, from the number of French refugees and merchants who inhabited
+it. Milton lived in No. 19, now destroyed. The house belonged to Jeremy
+Bentham, and was afterwards occupied by Hazlitt, who caused a tablet
+bearing the words "Sacred to Milton, Prince of Poets," to be placed on
+the outside wall in memory of his famous predecessor.
+
+Milton came here in 1651, when turned out of chambers in Scotland Yard
+which had been allowed him as Latin Secretary to the Council. He still
+retained the office. He had lost the sight of one eye, and two years
+later was totally blind. He was obliged to have an assistant-secretary,
+a post occupied for some time by Andrew Marvell. His daughter Deborah
+was born here, and his wife died soon after. In Palmer's Passage,
+Palmer's Almshouses were first established, and in Little Chapel Street,
+Mr. Nicholas Butler's. Mr. Cornelius Vandon's (Van Dun) were in Petty
+France. "Cornelius Vandon was born at Breda in Brabant, Yeoman of the
+Guard and Usher to their Majesties Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen
+Marie and Queen Elizabeth. He did give eight almshouses in Pettie France
+next to the end of James Street for the use of eight poor Women of the
+Parish. He did also give eight other Almshouses near St. Ermin's Hill by
+Tuttle side for the use of eight poor widows of this Parish." These
+eight women were intended to act as charity nurses, and to nurse any who
+were sick in the parish.
+
+In 1850 the almshouses and ground were sold, and the proceeds devoted to
+Vandon's Charity Account. Part of the funds was used to purchase a plot
+of ground in Lambeth, where new almshouses were erected, and after the
+death of the recipients of the charity these were let to tenants, and
+the proceeds devoted to supplying nurses for the poor.
+
+The towering blocks of Queen Anne's Mansions, the highest flats in
+London, rear themselves at the east end of York Street. These are partly
+on the site of a house occupied for very many years by Jeremy Bentham
+(see p. 32).
+
+The Guards Barracks, known as the Wellington Barracks, face Birdcage
+Walk. They were opened in March, 1834, and enlarged in 1859. The long
+line of yellow-washed building differs little from the usually-accepted
+barrack model.
+
+At the east end of the barrack yard stands the chapel, with an
+extraordinarily massive portico. It was built in 1839-40 on the model of
+a Grecian temple. The building is well proportioned, but the interior
+was not at first thought worthy of the exterior. Accordingly, in 1877
+the chapel was closed, and a sum of money arising from the sale of the
+Guards' Institute was devoted to the purpose of a complete internal
+reconstruction. The work was put into the hands of Sir G. E. Street,
+R.A., who carried it out in the Lombardian style, with an apse at the
+eastern end, and over the apse a semi-dome.
+
+Within, every spare foot of wall-space is utilized, and, besides being a
+perfect storehouse of memorials of departed Guardsmen, the chapel is
+full of rich but unobtrusive decoration. The sweep of the high pillars
+and arches of light stone relieves the richness of the mural
+ornamentation. The side-walls of the nave are covered by an arcade
+enclosing panels of marble mosaic. The heads of the arches are filled in
+by terra-cotta groups in high relief, representing Biblical subjects.
+Between and below the panels are tablets to the memory of those who have
+served in the Guards.
+
+Between the windows are other tablets, of which the most interesting is
+that inscribed: "Soldier, Sportsman, Author, George Whyte Melville's
+memory is here recorded by his old friends and comrades, the Coldstream
+Guards." The chancel screen and pulpit are of white Sicilian marble,
+with handsome panels and a base of Belgian black. In the spandril of the
+arch on the south side of the chancel is a marble medallion of the Duke
+of Wellington, presented by his son, and in the corresponding position
+on the north side one of the Duke of Marlborough, presented by the Earl
+of Cadogan. The stalls are of stained oak. The altar is of oak, with
+walnut panels and ebony shafts. The reredos is lined by beautiful glass
+mosaics, and the semi-dome is mosaic work to match. This sounds a mere
+catalogue, but it is quite impossible to give any idea of this
+singularly richly-decorated chapel without descending to detail. The
+tattered colours used at the Crimea and Waterloo hang from their staves
+on the pillars. Anyone is admitted to parade service on Sunday mornings
+by ticket, to be procured beforehand by writing to the chaplain.
+
+Queen Anne's Gate was formerly Queen Square. At a corner stands a statue
+of Queen Anne without date. Many of the houses show quaintly carved
+porches with wooden brackets and pendants, and are obviously of the date
+which the name implies. Jeremy Bentham lived in Queen Square Place, now
+covered by part of Queen Anne's Mansions, for fifty years of his life,
+and here he died in 1832. His skeleton, clothed as in life, is now
+possessed by University College, London. His house was called The
+Hermitage. His friend and disciple, James Mill, came to be his tenant in
+1814, in what was then 1 Queen's Square, now 40 Queen Anne's Gate. Here
+he completed his great History of India, published in 1818.
+
+After Mill, Sir John Bowring, first editor of the _Westminster Review_,
+established by Bentham, occupied the house now numbered 40. Peg
+Woffington also lived in Queen Square, which was a fashionable place of
+residence in the last century, a reputation it still retains. Both Great
+and Little Queen Streets partake of the old-world look of the
+seventeenth century, and show quaint keystones and carving of various
+designs over the doorways.
+
+The Broadway formerly included the part now occupied by Great Chapel
+Street, and reached to Strutton Ground. In James I.'s reign a license
+was granted for a haymarket to be held here, which license was renewed
+from time to time. Dick Turpin, the highwayman, is said to have lived in
+one of the small courts off the Broadway, and to have issued from thence
+on his marauding expeditions. Perhaps this was Black Horse Yard, which
+name still appears. There is on every side evidence of that mingling of
+poverty and riches which has been in all ages so characteristic of
+Westminster, a parish which contains at the same time splendid
+Government buildings and squalid slums, one of the most magnificent
+cathedrals in the world and some of the foulest courts.
+
+In Newcourt's map of 1658 Tothill Street is completely built, while
+there are very few streets to the south of the present Victoria Street.
+Walcott says of this street that it "was inhabited by noblemen and the
+flower of the gentry in Westminster." In Elizabeth's time the houses had
+large gardens attached. Edmund Burke lived in Tothill Street, also
+Thomas Southerne, the dramatist, who was a constant attendant at the
+Abbey; and Thomas Betterton was born here about 1635. His father was an
+under-cook in the service of Charles I. Betterton wrote a number of
+plays, but is best remembered as an actor.
+
+The Aquarium, 600 feet in length, stands on the site of a labyrinth of
+small yards. To one of these the Cock public-house gave its name.
+Tradition says that the Abbey workmen received their wages at the Cock
+in the reign of Henry III. At the eastern corner, where Tothill and
+Victoria Streets meet, is the Palace Hotel, a very large building, with
+two Titanic male figures supporting the portico in an attitude of
+eternal strain. This is on part of the site of the Almonry. This
+Almonry is thus described by Stow: "Now corruptly the Ambry, for that
+the alms of the Abbey were there distributed to the Poor. Therein was
+printing first practised in England." Caxton is often spoken of,
+incorrectly, as the inventor of printing. That credit belongs to
+Gutenberg, a native of Mainz, but Caxton was the first who brought the
+art to England and printed English books. He was born in the Weald of
+Kent, and his father was a citizen of London. As a boy, Caxton was sent
+to a house of English merchants at Bruges, and there he remained for
+many years, rising steadily in reputation. There he came in contact with
+a man named Colard Mansion, who had brought the art of printing to
+Bruges. Caxton seems to have seen at once the vast importance of the
+invention, and got Mansion to print two books in English, the first ever
+set up in the language. These were: "A Recuyell of the Historyes of
+Troie," printed 1474; and "The Game and Playe of the Chesse." Apparently
+the experiment met with success. Caxton soon after left the house of
+business, married, and became secretary to the Duchess of Burgundy, but
+he was not long in her service, for he returned to England in 1476. He
+brought over with him printing-presses and workmen, and settled in
+Westminster. He placed his press, by permission of the Prior
+(afterwards Abbot) Islip, in the Almonry just outside the gatehouse.
+
+His house was called Reed (Red) Pale, and was situated on the north side
+of the Almonry. A house traditionally called Caxton's was pointed out up
+to fifty years ago. It is described as being of red brick. In the
+library of Brasenose College, Oxford, there is a placard in Caxton's
+largest type inviting people to "come to Westminster in the Almonystrye
+at the Reed Pale."
+
+Caxton died in 1491, and, with his wife, is buried in St. Margaret's
+Church. He left one daughter.
+
+A copy of "The Royal Book," or "Book for a King," compiled for Philip of
+France in 1279, and translated and printed by Caxton at Westminster in
+1487, was sold this year in England for L2,225. There are only five
+copies in existence, one of which was sold in 1901 for L1,550. The other
+three are in public libraries. Could Caxton have looked onward for 400
+years, his astonishment and gratification at these prodigious prices
+would doubtless have been extreme.
+
+The Almonry, or "Eleemosynary," as Stow calls it, was in two parts, of
+which the larger was again subdivided in two portions, parallel to the
+two Tothill Streets. The distribution of the Royal maundy which takes
+place in Westminster Abbey yearly, with much ceremony, is a reminder of
+the ancient almsgiving. The address of the present Royal Almonry is 6,
+Craigs Court.
+
+Henry VII.'s almshouses were in the Little Almonry, and St. Ann's Chapel
+(p. 23) was at the southern end. King Henry's mother, Margaret, erected
+an almshouse near the chapel for poor women, which "was afterwards
+turned into lodgings for the singing men of the College."
+
+A great gatehouse formerly stood at the east end of Victoria Street,
+close by Dean's Yard. It was built by Richard II., and was very massive,
+resembling a square tower of stone, and it altogether lacked the
+architectural decoration of the other gateways near King Street to be
+spoken of presently. Well might it seem gloomy, for it fulfilled the
+functions of a prison. On one side was the Bishop of London's prison for
+"Clerks, convict," and in the other were confined prisoners from the
+City or Liberties of Westminster. Many distinguished prisoners were
+confined here. Sir Walter Raleigh passed the night before his execution
+within the solid walls, and wrote his farewell to life:
+
+    "Even such is Time! that takes on trust
+    Our youth, our joys, our all we have;
+    And pays us but with age and dust;
+    Who in the dark and silent grave,
+    When we have wandered all our ways,
+    Shuts up the story of our days."
+
+Perhaps the most illustrious victim of all those who have perished on
+English scaffolds is Sir Walter Raleigh. He was brought out to die in
+Old Palace Yard at eight in the morning of October 29, 1618. The day
+chosen was Lord Mayor's Day, in the hope that the pageants of the day
+would draw away the people from witnessing the death of this great man.
+The story of his execution is well known. His last words have not been
+allowed to perish. "Now," he said, as he mounted the scaffold, "I am
+going to God." Then, touching the axe, he said: "This is a sharp
+medicine, but it will cure all diseases." Lady Raleigh herself waited
+near the scaffold in a coach. The head was placed in a leather bag,
+wrapped about with Sir Walter's gown, and so she carried it away. She
+preserved it in a case during the rest of her life, and her son Carew
+kept it afterwards. It is believed to have been buried at last at West
+Horsley, in Surrey. The body was buried in St. Margaret's, near the
+altar.
+
+Here also was imprisoned Colonel Lovelace, who wrote within the gloomy
+walls the well-known lines:
+
+    "When, linnet-like, confined I
+      With shriller note shall sing
+    The mercye, sweetness, majesty,
+      And glories of my King;
+    When I shall voyce aloud how good
+      He is, how great should be,
+    Th' enlarged winds that curl the flood
+      Know no such liberty.
+
+    "Stone walls do not a prison make,
+      Nor iron bars a cage:
+    Minds, innocent and quiet, take
+      That for an hermitage.
+    If I have freedom in my love,
+      And in my soul am free,
+    Angels alone, that soare above,
+      Enjoy such liberty."
+
+Here were confined, also, Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; and Sir Jeffrey
+Hudson, the little dwarf, who was first in the service of the Duchess of
+Buckingham, and afterwards in that of Queen Henrietta Maria, and was
+twice painted by Vandyck. Hudson died in the prison. Hampden, Sir John
+Eliot, and Lilly, the astrologer, were imprisoned at various times, and
+Titus Oates died in the gatehouse in his sixty-third year. Richard
+Savage, the poet, adds another name to the list. In 1776 the Dean and
+Chapter of Westminster ordered that the gatehouse should be pulled down,
+but one wall, adjoining the house once inhabited by Edmund Burke, was
+still standing in 1836.
+
+Close by was Thieving Lane, through which thieves were taken to the
+prison without passing by the sanctuary and claiming its immunity.
+
+Within the High Gate was the Abbey Precinct, and with this we pass into
+by far the most interesting part of Westminster--that part that may be
+called the nucleus, round which cluster so many historical memories that
+the mere task of recording them is very great.
+
+
+
+
+PART III
+
+THE HEART OF WESTMINSTER.
+
+
+As we, in imagination, pass through the ancient prison gate, at the east
+end of Victoria Street, we find on the left Prince's Street, formerly
+called Long Ditch. His Majesty's Stationery Office stands on the east, a
+large dull brick building, stuccoed in front, built round a courtyard.
+Lewisham Street and Parker Street are long narrow foot-passages, running
+east and west, the latter a cul-de-sac. The tablet on the wall is much
+worn, but seems to have borne the date "Parker Street, 1621." This is in
+accordance with the lines of old flat-casemented, two-story houses which
+line each side of the street.
+
+Westminster Hospital originated in 1715 at a small house in Birdcage
+Walk from which outdoor relief was administered. Five years later the
+hospital began to receive in-patients, and in 1724 began a new lease of
+usefulness in a building in Chapel Street with accommodation for sixty
+in-patients. Nine years after the removal to Chapel Street the hospital
+was transferred to James Street. This change of position was objected to
+by part of the governing body, who seceded, and eventually established
+St. George's Hospital at Hyde Park Corner. In 1834 the present building
+was erected. It was the first to be established by voluntary
+contributions in London. It is unique in possessing an incurable ward,
+and in the system of nursing, which is carried out by contract. The
+leads are utilized as an airing-ground for the patients.
+
+The Guildhall or Sessions House of Middlesex is an ancient institution.
+Previous to 1752 the sessions were held at the Town Court House near
+Westminster Hall. In 1805 the Guildhall was erected from designs by S.
+P. Cockerell at the spot where the present Gothic fountain is. The
+present building is on the site of the Sanctuary. A little building of
+heavy stonework, about sixty feet high, once stood here; it had one door
+only, of solid oak, covered with iron plates, and this led into a sombre
+chapel. This was St. Peter's Sanctuary, dedicated to the Holy Innocents,
+and to it any hunted criminal had the right of entry. Apparently, his
+pursuers might besiege him without danger of sacrilege, but at any rate
+he could defy them in tolerable security within those massive walls.
+There do not seem to be many records of the occasions on which it was
+used; we do not hear of the quick step and panting breath of the
+fugitive as he neared that doorway, nor read of the sense of relief with
+which he shot the bolts into place before he crept up to the roof to
+peep over the low parapet and see if his enemies were hard upon his
+heels. Yet these things must have happened again and again. The most
+touching occasion recorded in history is when the Queen-mother Elizabeth
+sought refuge here with her younger son Richard and her daughters. It
+was not a new thing to her to have to seek protection thus. She had been
+here before, and her elder boy, destined for so short a reign and so
+cruel a death, had been born within the confines of the prison-like
+walls. On the second occasion, when the ferocious Richard, Duke of
+Gloucester, sought to obtain possession of his younger nephew, he
+respected the limits of sanctuary, but with his plausible tongue he
+persuaded the Archbishop who accompanied him to consent to his schemes,
+and he silenced, if he did not assuage, the mother's fears. So the
+little Richard was taken to die in the Tower with his brother, and small
+use had sanctuary been to him.
+
+The work of the demolition of this massive keep was going on in 1775,
+but it does not seem to have proceeded regularly; people came and tore
+away fragments from the walls as they listed, and the gloomy building
+vanished piecemeal.
+
+By Acts passed in the early part of the nineteenth century, part of Long
+Ditch, Bridge Street, Little George Street, and King Street were cleared
+away, also Broad and Little Sanctuary, Thieving Lane, and many small
+courts, and on the space thus obtained public seats were placed,
+flower-beds planted, and statues erected.
+
+The statues on the quadrangular piece of ground in the centre are of
+Peel and Beaconsfield, north and south; Palmerston and Derby on the
+east. The statue of George Canning is in the western enclosure. Union
+Street ran due eastward to New Palace Yard, and must have cut very near
+the place where the statue of Palmerston now stands. The drinking
+fountain at the corner of Great George Street was put up by Charles
+Buxton in 1865 in memory of the abolition of the slave trade.
+
+Westminster Abbey, Palace, and City stood formerly upon a small island
+called Thorney, the Isle of Bramble, a low-lying islet covered with
+brambles, nowhere more than three or four feet above the level of
+high-tide formed by the fall of the little river, the Tye, into the
+Thames. Part of this stream ran down Gardener's Lane; part of it
+diverged and ran south, forming a narrow moat or ditch called Long Lane,
+turned eastward at College Street, and so fell into the Thames. The
+island is mentioned in a charter of 785 by Offa, King of Mercia, as
+"Tornica, Locus terribilis"--_i.e._, sacred. It was about 1,410 feet
+long and 1,100 feet broad. It was almost entirely, save for a narrow
+piece of land on the north, occupied by the King's House and the Abbey.
+Both Palace and Abbey were surrounded by walls, one wall being common
+to both.
+
+The Palace Precinct had three gates: one on the north, one on the
+east--leading to the Bridge, _i.e._, the jetty where the state barges
+and the boats lay--and a postern leading into the Abbey. Westminster was
+at first a large rural manor belonging to the Abbey before the erection
+of the Palace.
+
+A large part of Thorney Island is still only slightly above the level of
+high-tide. King Street was 5 feet 6 inches only above high-water mark.
+This was the foundation of Westminster. It was a busy place long before
+London Bridge was built--a place of throng and moil as far back as the
+centuries before the coming of the Romans. A church was built in the
+most crowded part of it; monks in leathern jerkins lived beside the
+church, which lay in ruins for two hundred years, while the pagan Saxon
+passed every day beside it across the double ford. During the two
+hundred years of war and conquest by the Saxons, Westminster, quite
+forgotten and deserted, lay with its brambles growing over the Roman
+ruins, and the weather and ivy pulling down the old walls of villa and
+stationary camp piecemeal. Perhaps--rather probably--there had been a
+church upon the island in the third or fourth century. Soon after the
+conversion of the Saxons another church was erected here with a monastic
+house. Then there was another destruction and another rebuilding, for
+this place was deserted by the monks; perhaps they were murdered during
+the Danish troubles. It was King Edgar who restored the Abbey, to which
+Dunstan brought twelve monks from Glastonbury.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
+
+(MRS. A. MURRAY SMITH.)
+
+On the sacred island the last great Prince of the Saxon race, Edward,
+son of Ethelred the Unready, found Dunstan's little brotherhood of
+Benedictine monks, who were living in mud huts round a small stone
+chapel. Out of this insignificant beginning grew a mighty monastery, the
+West Minster, dowered with royal gifts and ruled over by mitred Abbots,
+who owned no ecclesiastical authority save that of the Pope, bowed to no
+secular arm save that of the Sovereign himself. The full title of the
+Abbey, which is seldom used nowadays, is the Collegiate Church of St.
+Peter's.
+
+King Edward had vowed, during his long exile in Normandy, that if he
+ever sat on the throne of his fathers he would go on a pilgrimage to St.
+Peter's shrine at Rome. But after his accession the unsettled state of
+the kingdom made it impossible to keep this vow, and he was absolved
+from it by the Pope on the condition that he should found or re-endow a
+monastic church dedicated to St. Peter. This, therefore, was the origin
+of the great West Minster, and in afterdays the tomb of St. Edward the
+Confessor within its walls attracted pilgrims here, and made the
+building a peculiarly sacred one. Here the Sovereigns of England were
+always crowned, often married, and until the time of George III. usually
+buried.
+
+The earliest coronation of which there is historic certainty was that of
+Edward's friend and former protector, the Conqueror, William I. As the
+last Saxon King of the race of Ethelred was the first Sovereign who was
+buried at Westminster, so the head of the Norman line of English Kings
+was the first who was hallowed to the service of God and of his people
+on this historic spot. No trace is left of Edward's Norman monastery,
+save the foundations of some of the pillars and a round arch in the
+cloisters; but we know that his church was nearly on the same place as
+the present Abbey, and that the old Norman nave stood for many hundred
+years joined on to the choir and transepts of the new Early English
+building, and was pulled down bit by bit as the later church grew. For
+the beautiful Abbey which we see before us now, in the heart of a busy
+thoroughfare, is the work, not of one generation, but of five hundred
+years. The central part was built in the thirteenth century. The
+Confessor had been canonized by the Pope in 1163, and a century later
+Henry III., who was a fervent admirer of the saint, caused a splendid
+shrine to be made by Italian workmen, which was to replace the old one
+of Henry II.'s time. The new style of pointed architecture was just
+coming in, and the Abbot of Westminster, Humez, had added a Lady Chapel
+to the old Norman church when Henry III. was a boy. As the King grew to
+manhood he saw the contrast between the two styles of architecture, and
+while the Italian shrine was still only half finished he caused the
+central part of the Confessor's Norman church to be demolished, and in
+its place an Early English choir and transepts were gradually
+constructed during the last twenty-seven years of Henry's reign, with a
+series of little chapels round the principal one where the shrine was to
+be placed. In 1269 the new church was ready for service, and the chapel
+was prepared for the shrine.
+
+The shrine, and within it the Confessor's coffin, still stands in the
+centre of this royal chapel of St. Edward--a battered wreck, yet bearing
+traces of its former beauty--and round it is a circle of royal tombs,
+drawn as by a magnet to the proximity of the royal saint. Henry III.,
+the second founder, is here himself. At his head is his warlike son
+Edward I., the Hammer of the Scots, with his faithful wife, Eleanor of
+Castile, at his feet. On the other side are the tombs of another
+Plantagenet, Edward III., the "mighty victor, mighty lord," and his good
+Queen, the Flemish Philippa. In a line with them is their handsome,
+unfortunate grandson Richard II., whose picture hangs beside the altar.
+Here also is the Coronation Chair, which encloses the Stone of Scone,
+and upon this "Seat of Majesty," ever since the time of Edward I., who
+reft the ancient stone from the Scots, all our Sovereigns have been
+seated at the moment of their coronation. On the west of the royal
+chapel a screen depicts the legends of the Confessor's life; on the east
+is the mutilated tomb of Henry V., the victor of Agincourt; above it the
+Chantry Chapel, where, after centuries of neglect, rest the remains of
+his wife, the French Catherine, ancestress of the great Tudor line.
+
+While the different dynasties succeeded one another, the building of the
+monastery and church went on slowly but surely under different Abbots,
+the monastic funds helped by gifts of money from the Kings and Queens
+and from the pilgrims who visited the shrine. Edward I., for instance,
+continued his father's work from the crossing of the transepts to one
+bay west of the present organ-screen, while after him Richard II. and
+Henry V. were the principal benefactors to the fabric. The west end was
+not reached till early in the sixteenth century, in the reign of Henry
+VII., when Abbot Islip superintended the completion of the west front
+and placed in the niches statues of those Kings who had been
+benefactors. The towers were not built till 1740, after the designs of
+Sir Christopher Wren, who died before they were finished. The great
+northern entrance has been called "Solomon's Porch" since the reign of
+Richard II., who erected a beautiful wooden porch outside the north
+door. This was destroyed in the thirteenth century, and the end of the
+north transept was changed into the classical style under Dean
+Atterbury, to whom, it is fair to add, we owe the fine glass of the
+rose-window. Within recent years the north front has again been restored
+on the lines of the original thirteenth-century architecture, and the
+present sculpture on the porch is from the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott;
+the work was carried out by Mr. John Pearson, who was the Abbey
+architect at that time.
+
+At the extreme east end, in the place of the Lady Chapel built by Abbot
+Humez, is the famous chapel called the "Wonder of the World," which was
+founded and endowed by the first Tudor King, and intended as a place of
+sepulture for himself and his family. The foundation-stone was laid in
+the presence of Henry VII. himself and of the great builder, Abbot
+Islip. The style is Perpendicular, much later than the main portion of
+the Abbey, and the whole of the exterior and interior is elaborately
+carved and decorated with stone panelling, the badge of the Royal
+founder, the Tudor rose, recurring all over the walls. Inside the great
+feature is the "fan tracery" of the stone roof, which resembles that of
+King's College Chapel, Cambridge. The windows were once filled with
+coloured glass, only a fragment of which remains; and the niches with
+statues of saints and Kings, many of which were destroyed in early
+Puritan times, in the reign of Edward VI. In 1725 this chapel was
+appointed as the place for the installation of the Knights of the Bath,
+an Order revived by George I., and, although the Knights are now
+installed at Windsor, the Dean of Westminster remains the official
+chaplain of the Order.
+
+In the centre of the chapel is the tomb of the founder, Henry VII., and
+his wife, Elizabeth of York, and on the grille and the gates are the
+family badges. The tomb of Henry's mother, Margaret, Countess of
+Richmond, is in the south aisle; and the effigies of herself, her son
+and his wife, are fine specimens of the skill of the famous Italian
+sculptor Torrigiano. Henry's grand-daughters, the Queens Elizabeth and
+Mary Tudor, lie in the opposite aisle, sisters parted in life but united
+in death. Many other descendants of the founder lie side by side within
+the vaults, while the tombs of two of them, Margaret Stuart, Countess of
+Lennox, and Mary, Queen of Scots, are close to their common ancestress,
+Lady Margaret, in the south aisle. All the Stuart Sovereigns with the
+exception of James II. are here, but their only memorials are the wax
+figures of Charles II., William and Mary, and Anne, in the Islip chantry
+chapel.
+
+In a small chapel to the east of Henry VII.'s tomb once lay the bodies
+of the great Protector, Oliver Cromwell, and many of his mighty men, but
+their bones were dug up after the Restoration, and not allowed to rest
+in the Royal church. The Hanoverian Sovereigns are represented only by
+George II. and his Queen, Caroline the Illustrious, who rest here, their
+dust mingled according to the King's desire. Close by lie members of
+their numerous family and the mother, brothers and sisters of the next
+King, their grandson, George III. Amongst his relations is that brave
+General, the Duke of Cumberland, whose memory is maligned in the
+sobriquet "Billy the Butcher."
+
+In the ring of smaller chapels all around the shrine are the tombs of
+Princes and Princesses, courtiers and Court ladies, warriors and
+statesmen. Most conspicuous of all, towering over the beautiful
+Crusaders' monuments, is the vast cenotaph which insults the memory of
+Wolfe, and not far off is the colossal statue of James Watt.
+
+Outside, the cloisters recall the days of the monastery, when the Abbot
+sat in state in the east cloister or washed the feet of beggars, and
+the brethren taught the novices and little schoolboys from the
+neighbourhood. The architecture there begins in the eleventh century and
+ends in the fourteenth, when Abbot Litlington finished the building of
+the monastic offices and cloisters with his predecessor Langham's
+bequest.
+
+The incomparable chapter-house was built in Henry III.'s time, and
+restored to some of its original beauty by Sir Gilbert Scott. The modern
+glass windows remind us of Dean Stanley and his love for the
+Abbey-church. The chapter-house belongs, as does the Chapel of the Pyx,
+to the Government, and is not under the Dean's jurisdiction. There the
+early Parliaments used to meet. In the south cloister is the door of the
+old refectory where the monks dined, and a little further on we come to
+the Abbot's house (now the Deanery), which contained in old days within
+its limits the "College Hall," where the Westminster schoolboys now have
+their meals. The Jerusalem Chamber and Jericho Parlour, which were
+formerly the Abbot's withdrawing-room and guest-chambers, date from the
+abbacy of Litlington at the end of the fourteenth century. To all lovers
+of Shakespeare the Jerusalem Chamber is familiar as the place where
+Henry IV. was carried when he fell stricken with a mortal illness before
+the shrine, and where Henry V. fitted on his father's crown. In this
+room in our own days the Revisers of the Bible used to meet.
+
+If we pass back into the nave by the west door, we shall see the names
+of statesmen, of naval and military heroes, on every side. Huge
+monstrosities of monuments surround us and grow in bulk as we pass up
+the musicians' aisle and reach the north transept, called the
+Statesmen's Corner. If we pause and glance around, striving to forget
+the outer shell, and to think only of the noble men commemorated, we
+shall remember much to make us proud of England's heroes and worthies.
+Above the west door stands young William Pitt pointing with outstretched
+arm towards the north transept, where we shall find his venerable
+father, Lord Chatham. Almost beneath his feet is the philanthropist Lord
+Shaftesbury, and near to him is a white slave kneeling before the statue
+of Charles James Fox, whose huge monument hides the humbler tablet to
+another zealous opponent of the slave trade, Zachary Macaulay. We must
+pause here an instant to gaze upon the bronze medallion head of General
+Gordon, the martyr of the Soudan, an enthusiast also in the suppression
+of slavery; and as we walk up the nave we must look for the slab of
+Livingstone, whose remains were brought to their final resting-place
+over deserts and trackless wildernesses by his faithful black servants.
+
+On the right, in Little Poets' Corner, is to be found the chief of the
+Lake poets, William Wordsworth. Here also is Dr. Arnold, the noted
+Headmaster of Rugby, his son Matthew, poet and critic, and beside them
+Keble, Kingsley and Maurice.
+
+The makers of our Indian Empire are about us now. Outram, the "Bayard of
+India," lies between Lord Lawrence and Lord Clyde; while in the north
+transept are earlier pioneers, the faithful naval, military, and civil
+servants of the great East India Company. On each side of the screen are
+two ponderous monuments which cannot escape the notice of the most
+casual sightseer; these commemorate Lord Stanhope, a General whose early
+reputation ranked next to that of Marlborough in Spain, and the immortal
+philosopher, Sir Isaac Newton. Purcell, chief among English musicians,
+claims our notice in the choir aisle, and we pass on surrounded by other
+musicians, by sailors and soldiers, until we stand in the very midst of
+the statesmen. It may be we have come to the Abbey in the spring, when
+we shall see the statue of Lord Beaconsfield literally covered with
+primroses. The Cannings, Sir Robert Peel in his Roman toga, Lord
+Palmerston, and many other statesmen, are here, and our feet tread on
+the grave of Gladstone as we pass towards the other transept, hastening
+to the company of the poets and men of letters.
+
+The south transept has only been called Poets' Corner since the burial
+of Spenser, who was the darling of his generation. But the grave of
+Chaucer, "the father of English poetry," had consecrated the aisle to
+poetry long before. Chaucer was not given honourable sepulture here
+because he was a poet, but only from the accidental fact that he
+happened to be Clerk of the Works at Westminster Palace, and lived near
+the old Lady Chapel. For 250 years the great poet's only memorial was a
+leaden plate hanging on a column close by, but in 1551 a devoted
+admirer, himself a versifier, Nicholas Brigham, placed an ancient tomb
+here in memory of the master, with a fancy painting of Chaucer at the
+back. Before this monument are the graves of the two most famous poets
+of our generation, the Laureate Tennyson and Robert Browning, side by
+side. Above them is the beautiful bust of another Poet Laureate, Dryden,
+and the less artistic portrait bust of the American poet Longfellow.
+
+The walls of the Poets' Corner are literally covered with memorials of
+men of letters. Many of these are but names to us at the present day,
+but some are familiar; others, such as "Rare Ben Jonson," Butler, the
+author of "Hudibras," Thomas Gray, Spenser, and Goldsmith, are household
+words throughout the Empire. Beneath our feet lie Sheridan and old Dr.
+Johnson.
+
+The tardy memorials to Milton and Shakespeare eclipse the fame of all
+the rest. Quite recently busts of the Scotch bard Robert Burns, the
+poet-novelist Walter Scott, and a medallion head of the artistic prose
+writer and critic John Ruskin, have been placed here. Music is not
+unrepresented, for above us is the unwieldy figure of Handel, and
+beneath his feet a memorial to the Swedish nightingale, Jenny Lind
+Goldschmidt, whose perfect rendering of the master's airs will ever
+remain in the memory of those who were privileged to hear her. Further
+on is the historical side, where the chief prose writers are to be
+found; the venerable Camden is close to Grote and Bishop Thirlwall,
+historians whose bodies rest in one grave. The busts of Lord Macaulay
+and of Thackeray are on each side of Addison's statue, and beneath the
+pavement in front of them is the tombstone of the ever-popular Charles
+Dickens. David Garrick stands in close proximity to the grave of the
+dramatist Davenant, while scattered in various parts of the Abbey and
+cloisters will be found the names of other actors and actresses, notably
+Mrs. Siddons and her brother, John Kemble.
+
+It is impossible in a few paragraphs to do more than allude to the
+history of the Abbey, and of the dead whose names are commemorated, or
+whose bodies rest within this great "Temple of Silence and
+Reconciliation." Let us conclude this brief sketch with the pregnant and
+pathetic words of the young playwriter John Beaumont, whose bones are
+mouldering beside those of Chaucer:
+
+    "Mortality, behold and fear!
+    What a change of flesh is here!
+    Think how many royal bones
+    Sleep within these heaps of stones.
+    Here they lie had realms and lands
+    Who now want strength to stir their hands.
+    ... Here are sands, ignoble things
+    Dropt from the ruined sides of kings;
+    Here's a world of pomp and state,
+    Buried in dust once dead by fate."
+
+
+ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH.
+
+St. Margaret's Church is traditionally said to have been founded by
+Edward the Confessor, and that there was certainly a church here before
+1140 is proved by its being mentioned in a grant of Abbot Herebert, who
+died in that year. It was originally a chapel in the south aisle of the
+church of the Benedictine monks, and was rebuilt to a great extent in
+Edward I.'s reign. Further alterations were made in the time of Edward
+IV. In 1735 the tower was raised and faced with stone, and in 1758 the
+east end was rebuilt and the present stained glass inserted. A famous
+case between Sir Thomas Grosvenor and the family of Scrope concerning
+the rights of a heraldic device which either claimed was heard in St.
+Margaret's, and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, gave evidence. In 1549
+Latimer preached in the church. The Protector Somerset, at the time he
+was building his great mansion in the Strand, had used a good deal of
+the ruins of religious houses, and still wanted more material. He
+therefore cast his unholy eyes upon St. Margaret's in order that he
+might use its time-worn stones for his own purposes, but he was resisted
+by the people of Westminster, who arose in their wrath and smote his
+workmen hip and thigh.
+
+On Palm Sunday in 1713 the great Dr. Sacheverell preached in the church
+after the term of his suspension, and no less than 40,000 copies of his
+sermon were sold. The church was for long peculiarly associated with the
+House of Commons, as when the members began to sit in St. Stephen's
+Chapel they attended Divine service in St. Margaret's, while the Lords
+went to the Abbey. Edmund Waller, the poet, was married in St.
+Margaret's to Anne Banks on July 5, 1631, and John Milton to Katherine
+Woodcock in November, 1656. A son of Sir Walter Raleigh's is buried in
+the church, and also Colonel Blood. Children of Judge Jeffreys: Bishop
+Burnet, Titus Oates and Jeremy Bentham were christened here. Besides
+Latimer and Sacheverell the list of great preachers in St. Margaret's is
+long, including many Archbishops and Bishops, and the roll of Rectors
+contains many distinguished names. A man who occupies the pulpit must
+feel he has high tradition to uphold.
+
+The interior of St. Margaret's is far superior to the exterior, a
+reversal of what is usual in church architecture. The splendid arcades
+of aisle arches, early Perpendicular, or transition from Decorated to
+the Perpendicular style, are uninterrupted by any chancel arch, and with
+the clerestory windows sweep from end to end of the building. The east
+window is filled with stained glass of the richest tints, the blues and
+greens being particularly striking. This glass has a history. It was
+made at Gouda in Holland, and was a present from the magistrates of Dort
+to Henry VIII. for the chapel of Whitehall Palace. The King, however,
+gave it to Waltham Abbey (doubtless in exchange for something else). The
+glass suffered many removals and vicissitudes, being at one time buried
+to escape Puritan zeal, but it was eventually bought by the
+churchwardens of St. Margaret's for 400 guineas. The aisle windows, with
+one exception, to be noted presently, are the work of Sir Gilbert Scott
+at the last restoration, just before 1882. He designed the tracery in
+accordance with what he conceived to have been the date of the church;
+but when his work was finished a single window, that furthest east in
+the south aisle, was discovered walled up, and the style of this showed
+that his surmise had not been far wrong, though the period he had
+chosen was a little later. The glass in several of the windows is of
+interest. That at the east end of the south aisle is the Caxton window,
+put up 1820 by the Roxburghe Club, as was also the tablet below. That in
+the window in the centre, west end, is in memory of Sir Walter Raleigh,
+who was beheaded in Old Palace Yard, near at hand. It was put in by
+Americans about twenty years ago. Raleigh's tablet, with an inscription
+copied from the old wooden one which dated from the time of his death,
+is near the east entrance. The Milton window, also due to the generosity
+of an American, is on the north side of the Raleigh one. One of especial
+interest to Americans is that to Phillips Brooks, Bishop of
+Massachusetts, near the vestry door. There are many others deserving of
+notice.
+
+The general tint of all the glass is rich and subdued, with a
+predominance of yellow and sepia strangely effective. Of monuments there
+are many--they may be examined in detail on the spot; the oldest is that
+to Cornelius Van Dun, a dark stone medallion with a man's head in
+bas-relief on the north wall. Van Dun was Yeoman of the Guard and Usher
+to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth. A quaint one near it is
+to "Egioke," died 1622. The most elaborate monument in the church is
+that to Mary, Lady Dudley, sister to the famous Lord Howard of
+Effingham. This is the life-sized figure of a woman in alabaster, highly
+coloured; it stands near the vestry door. Above it is a relic that many
+might pass unnoticed; it is the figure of a woman about two-thirds
+life-size standing in an ancient rood door. The statue was found built
+up in the wall by a workman who struck his pick into the coloured stuff,
+and called attention to the fact. The figure is either that of the
+Virgin or St. Margaret. It has been carefully put together, but the head
+is lacking. Puritan zeal had evidently to do with its concealment.
+Puritan zeal, too, was answerable for the destruction of a magnificent
+tomb to Dame Billing, a benefactress who rebuilt the south aisle of the
+church about 1499.
+
+The churchwardens of St. Margaret's hold a valuable old loving-cup,
+presented 1764, and a tobacco-box purchased at Horn Fair for fourpence,
+and presented to the overseers by a Mr. Monck in 1713. Each succeeding
+set of overseers has added to the decoration of the box or given it a
+new case, and many of these are beautifully engraved; on the inside of
+the original lid Hogarth engraved on a silver plate the bust of the Duke
+of Cumberland of Culloden celebrity, and the whole set is now of great
+value and is quite unique. The door of the church opposite the Houses of
+Parliament is open daily from eleven till two.
+
+
+WESTMINSTER SCHOOL.
+
+Outside the archway leading to Dean's Yard there is a granite column to
+the memory of the Westminster boys who fell in the Crimean War and
+Indian Mutiny. It was designed by Gilbert Scott, R.A. Scott was also the
+architect of the houses over the archway close at hand. The school has
+been long and intimately associated with the Abbey; there was probably a
+scholastic establishment carried on by the monks from the very earliest
+days, and recent discoveries by Mr. Edward Scott in the Abbey muniments
+prove that there was a grammar school--and not only a choir school--in
+existence before the Reformation. On the dissolution of the Abbey in
+Henry VIII.'s reign, it was formed into a college of Secular Canons, and
+the school was in existence then in dependence on the Canons. Queen
+Elizabeth remodelled her father's scheme and refounded the school,
+calling it St. Peter's College, Westminster, which is still its correct
+designation; so that, though the present establishment owes its origin
+to Queen Elizabeth, it may be said to have inherited the antiquity of
+its predecessor, and to hold its own in that matter with Winchester and
+Eton.
+
+If we pass under the archway into Dean's Yard, we find a backwater
+indeed, where the roar of traffic scarcely penetrates, where sleek
+pigeons coo in the elm-trees round a grass plot, as if they were in the
+close of one of the sleepiest of provincial towns instead of in the
+midst of one of the greatest cities in the world. On the east side there
+is a long building of smoke-blackened, old stone. The door at the north
+end leads into the cloisters, from whence we can pass into the school
+courtyard, otherwise the school entry is by a pointed doorway a little
+further down, beneath the Headmaster's house. Entering this, we have on
+the left Ashburnham House, on the right the houses of masters who take
+boarders, and opposite, a fine gateway with the arms of Queen Elizabeth
+over it; this is said to have been designed by Inigo Jones. The greater
+part of the buildings was designed by Wren, who died before the project
+was carried out, but there seems to be little doubt that the Earl of
+Burlington, who followed him in the appointment, used Wren's plans. The
+great square building, the scholars' dormitory (now cubicles), which
+faces us, standing a little way to the right of the ornamental gateway,
+is of this period; also much of the main building into which we enter by
+the gateway above mentioned, and a flight of steps. The seventh form
+room on the right has a fine ceiling of Italian plaster and bookcases
+with carved panels. This is known as Dr. Busby's Library, because built
+by him. It looks out over the college garden.
+
+The great schoolroom beyond, known as Up-School, is a splendid room,
+with mighty beams in its fine timber roof, and panels with the arms of
+Westminster boys now dead on the walls. The bar over which the pancake
+is tossed on Shrove Tuesday is pointed out, and a very great height it
+is. At the upper end of the room, which, by the way, is now used only
+for prayers, concerts, etc., is the birching-table, black and worn with
+age and use. Dryden's name, carved on a bench, is shown, and a chair
+presented by King Charles to Dr. Busby. The walls date originally from
+the twelfth century or earlier, but were practically rebuilt in the end
+of the eighteenth century. The only part of the college buildings which
+formed part of the original school is the college hall, built by Abbot
+Litlington in 1380 as the monks' refectory. But by far the oldest part
+of the buildings at present incorporated in the school is the Norman
+crypt, approached from the dark cloister, and forming part of the
+gymnasium made by the Chapter in 1860, by roofing in the walls beyond
+it, between it and the Chapter-house. A stranger gymnasium, surely, no
+school can boast.
+
+The name of Dr. Busby, Headmaster from 1638 to 1695, will be for ever
+held in honour at Westminster. He himself had been a Westminster boy,
+and all his great ability and strong character were bent to furthering
+the interests of the school.
+
+The roll of names of those educated at Westminster includes Dryden,
+Bishop Atterbury, Cowley, Warren Hastings, Gibbon, Thomas Cowper,
+Charles Wesley, Lord John Russell, and many others well known wherever
+the English tongue is spoken.
+
+In 1706 there were nearly 400 boys, but after this the school began to
+decline; in 1841 it was at a very low ebb--there were less than seventy
+boys. The reasons for this decline were manifold. Building had been
+going on apace round the quiet precincts, and parents fancied their sons
+would be better in the country; also, though the charges were high, the
+system of living was extremely rough, and no money was spent on
+repairing the buildings. In 1845, when Wilberforce was appointed Dean,
+he set to work to inspire fresh life into the institution, but he had
+hardly time to do anything before he was appointed to the See of Oxford;
+however, the current set flowing by him gathered strength, and in 1846,
+when Liddell (afterwards Dean of Christchurch) was made Headmaster, the
+school was recovering its prosperity.
+
+Ashburnham House was taken over by the school in 1882, and it is well
+worth a visit. In the hall where the day boys have their lockers there
+is a very old buttery hatch, probably part of the monks' original
+building; at the back the little green garden is the site of the
+refectory, and traces of Norman windows are seen against the exterior
+cloister wall. The staircase in Ashburnham House is very fine; it is of
+the "well" variety, and is surmounted by a cupola with a little gallery.
+The walls are all panelled; unfortunately, paint has been laid on
+everything alike, and though the balusters have been recently uncovered,
+the process is difficult and laborious, and apt to injure the carving.
+The carving round the doorways is very fine, of the laurel-wreath
+pattern associated with the period of Wren. The house belonged to Lord
+Ashburnham, and was later used by the Prebendaries of the cathedral. The
+school is no longer in any sense dependent on the Abbey, and except that
+the boys attend the services there as "chapel," the old ties are
+severed. A great feature of the school are the King's (or Queen's)
+Scholars, founded by Elizabeth; of these there are now forty resident
+and twenty non-resident. There are three scholarships and three
+exhibitions yearly at Christ Church, Oxford, for Westminster boys, and
+three exhibitions at Trinity College, Oxford. There are at present
+(1902) about two hundred and thirty boys in the school. The Latin play,
+which is well known in connection with the school, is acted by the
+King's Scholars annually in the middle of December, and dates back to
+1704.
+
+
+HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
+
+The annals of New Palace Yard are long and interesting. It looks so new
+and modern, with its Houses of Parliament, and its iron railings, that
+one forgets how ancient a place it is. What stood on the site of
+Westminster Hall before William Rufus built it we know not, but
+certainly some buildings belonging to the Old Palace of Cnut and Edward
+the Confessor. It was called, however, New Palace Yard on account of the
+buildings erected by William and his successors. It was enclosed by a
+wall which had three gates. The water-gate was on the site of the
+present bridge, while the Star Chamber occupied very nearly the site of
+the present Clock Tower. The yard was further beautified by a fountain,
+which on great days flowed with wine; this fountain, which was taken
+down in the reign of Charles II., stood on the north side. On the same
+side behind the fountain was the "Clochard," or Clock Tower. This fine
+building was erected by Sir Ralph Hingham, Lord Chief Justice under
+Edward I., in payment of a fine of 800 marks imposed upon him by the
+King for having altered a court roll. It was done in mercy, in order to
+change a poor man's fine of 12s. 4d. to 6s. 8d., but a court roll must
+not be altered. The care of the clock was granted to the Dean of St.
+Stephen's, with an allowance of sixpence a day. The bell, very famous in
+its day, was large and sonorous; it could be heard all over London when
+the wind was south-west. It was first called Edward, and bore this
+legend:
+
+    "Tercius aptavit me Rex Edward que vocavit
+    Sancti decore Edwardi signerentur ut hore."
+
+When the Clock Tower, the "Clochard," was taken down in 1698, the bell
+called "Tom" was found to weigh 82 cwt. 2 qrs. 211 lb. It was bought by
+the Dean of St. Paul's. As it was being carried to the City, it fell
+from the cart in crossing the very boundary of Westminster, viz., under
+Temple Bar. In 1716 it was recast, and presently placed in the western
+tower of St. Paul's.
+
+In Palace Yard Perkin Warbeck sat in the stocks before the gate of
+Westminster Hall for a whole day, enduring innumerable reproaches,
+mockings and scornings.
+
+Here John Stubbs, the Puritan, an attorney of Lincoln's Inn, and Robert
+Page, his servant (December 3, 1580), had their hands struck off for a
+libel on the Queen, called "The Gaping Gulph, in which England will be
+swallowed by the French Marriage." What part the unfortunate servant
+played that he, too, should deserve a punishment so terrible is
+difficult to say. On March 2, 1585, William Parry was drawn from the
+Tower and hanged and quartered here. And in January, 1587, one Thomas
+Lovelace, sentenced by the Star Chamber for false accusations, was
+carried on horseback about Westminster Hall, his face to the tail; he
+was then pilloried, and had one of his ears cut off. The execution, in
+1612, of Lord Sanquire for the murder of a fencing-master, and of the
+Duke of Hamilton, the Earl of Holland and Lord Capel, on March 9, 1649,
+for so-called treason, took place in New Palace Yard. Here in 1630
+Alexander Leighton was whipped, pilloried and branded for a libel on the
+Queen and the Bishops. In May, 1685, Titus Oates was stripped of his
+ecclesiastical robes and led round Westminster Hall; afterwards he was
+put in the pillory. The printer of the famous "No. 45" of the _North
+Briton_ also stood in the pillory in New Palace Yard in 1765.
+
+In the Old Palace Yard, now covered by buildings, were fought out
+certain ordeals of battle. Here was held at least one famous tournament,
+that in which the two Scottish prisoners, the Earl Douglas and Sir
+William Douglas, bore themselves so gallantly that the King restored
+them to liberty on their promise not to fight against the English.
+
+One memory of Old Palace Yard must not be forgotten. Geoffrey Chaucer
+lived during his last year at a house adjoining the White Rose Tavern
+abutting on the Lady Chapel of the Abbey. The house was swept away to
+make room for Henry VII.'s chapel. Nor must we forget that Ben Jonson
+lived and died in a house over the gate or passage from the churchyard
+to the old palace. In the south-east corner of Old Palace Yard stood the
+house hired by the Gunpowder Plot conspirators for the conveyance of the
+barrels into the vault. And it was in Old Palace Yard that four of them
+suffered death.
+
+The whole of the ground now occupied by the Houses of Parliament,
+Westminster Hall and New Palace Yard was formerly covered with the
+walls, gates, tower, state chambers, private chambers, offices, stables,
+gardens, and outhouses, of the King's House, Westminster. Until sixty
+years ago, when fire finally destroyed them, still stood on this spot
+many of the buildings, altered and reroofed, repaired, and with changed
+windows and new decorations, of Edward the Confessor, and perhaps of
+Knut. Still under these modern houses the ground is covered with the old
+cellars, vaults and crypts, which it was found safer and cheaper to fill
+with cement than to break up and carry away.
+
+It is at present impossible to present a plan of the King's House such
+as it was when Edward the Confessor occupied it; we can, however, draw
+an incomplete plan of the place later on, say in the fourteenth
+century.
+
+The palace was walled, but not moated; it had two principal gates, one
+opening to the north, and another on the river. The circuit of the wall
+only included twelve acres and a half, and into this compass had to be
+crowded in Plantagenet times the King's and Queen's state and private
+apartments, and accommodation for an immense army of followers, and also
+for all the craftsmen and artificers required by the Court. The total
+number of persons thus housed in the fourteenth century is reckoned at
+20,000. The part of the King's House thus occupied, the narrow streets
+of gabled houses, with tourelles at the corners, and much gilded and
+carved work, has vanished completely, even to the memory. When King
+Henry VIII. removed to the palace at Whitehall a new Westminster arose
+about his old Court; this in its turn almost vanished with the fire of
+1834. Up to this time some of the old buildings remained, but have now
+completely gone. Among them were the Painted Chamber, the Star Chamber,
+the old House of Lords, and Princes' Chamber, all part of Edward the
+Confessor's palace. In the Painted Chamber the Confessor himself died,
+but it is manifestly impossible to give here any minute account of the
+chambers in the ancient building.
+
+The crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel (not shown to visitors) is one of the
+few parts remaining which dates from before the fire. The chapel is said
+to have been first built by the King whose name it bore, but was
+rebuilt by Edward I. and greatly altered by his two immediate
+successors. It was used for the sittings of the House of Commons after
+Edward VI.'s reign. At the end of the seventeenth century it was much
+altered by Wren, but it perished in 1834. A small chapel on the south
+side was called Our Lady of the Pew. The oldest part of the ancient
+palace remaining is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus as a part
+of a projected new palace. He held his Court here in 1099, and, on
+hearing a remark on the vastness of his hall, he declared that it would
+be only a bedroom to the palace when finished. However, he himself had
+to occupy much narrower quarters before he could carry out his scheme.
+Richard II. raised the hall and gave it the splendid hammer-beam roof,
+one of the finest feats in carpentry extant. George IV. refaced the
+exterior of the hall with stone.
+
+In the eighteenth century the Courts of Justice (Chancery and King's
+Bench) were held here, and as the hall was also lined with shops, and
+the babble and walking to and fro were incessant, it is not wonderful
+that justice was sometimes left undone. It would be difficult--nay,
+impossible--to tell in detail all the strange historic scenes enacted in
+Westminster Hall in the limited space at disposal, and as they are all
+concerned rather with the nation than with Westminster, mere mention of
+the principal ones will be enough. Henry II. caused his eldest son to be
+crowned in the hall in his own lifetime, at which ceremony the young
+Prince disdainfully asserted he was higher in rank than his father,
+having a King for father and a Queen for mother, whereas his father
+could only claim blood royal on the mother's side.
+
+Edward III. here received King John of France, brought captive by the
+Black Prince. In 1535 Sir Thomas More was tried here; later there were
+many trials, the greatest of which was that of King Charles I., followed
+by that of the regicides, brought to justice and the fruit of their
+crimes in a way they had not expected when they took prominent parts in
+the first great drama. Cromwell's head was stuck upon the southern gable
+of the hall, where it remained for twenty years. The trial of the Seven
+Bishops caused great excitement, that of Lords Kenmure and Derwentwater
+hardly less. Lord Byron was tried in Westminster Hall, and every child
+has heard of the arraignment of Warren Hastings. Surely, if ever a
+building had memories of historic dramas, played upon its floor as on a
+stage, it is Rufus's great hall at Westminster.
+
+Parliament was first called to Westminster in Edward I.'s reign. The
+Commons sat for 300 years in the Abbey Chapter-house, then for 300
+years more in St. Stephen's Chapel. In 1790 a report on the buildings
+declared them to be defective and in great danger of fire, a prophecy
+fulfilled in 1834. On the evening of October 16 in that year the wife of
+a doorkeeper saw a light under one of the doors, and gave an alarm. The
+place was made for a bonfire; a strong wind blowing from the south, and
+afterwards south-west, drove the flames along the dried woodwork and
+through the draughty passages. As the flames got a stronger and stronger
+hold, the scene from the further bank of the river was magnificent.
+Until three o'clock the next day the fire raged, and Westminster Hall
+and the crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel alone survived the wreck. The
+cause of the fire is said to have been the heating of the flues by some
+workmen burning a quantity of tallies or ancient notched sticks.
+
+The present Houses of Parliament, built after the fire from Sir Charles
+Barry's designs, have been the cause of much of that criticism which is
+applied to the work of some people by others who certainly could not do
+so well themselves. The material used is magnesian limestone, which,
+unfortunately, has not worn well; and the erection took seventeen years
+(1840-57). On Saturday afternoons the door under the Victoria Tower,
+south end, is open, and anyone may walk through the principal rooms.
+This is well worth doing, though what is to be seen is mostly modern.
+What will chiefly astonish strangers is the smallness of the House of
+Commons.
+
+The Clock Tower, 316 feet high, containing Big Ben, and standing at the
+north end of the present Houses of Parliament, is a notable object, and
+a landmark for miles around. Ben was called after Sir Benjamin Hall, who
+was First Commissioner of Works at the time he was brought into being.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Bridge Street was formed at the building of the bridge, and is almost on
+the site of the Long Woolstaple.
+
+In the reign of King Edward III., in the year 1353, Westminster was made
+one of the ten towns in England where the staple or market for wool
+might be held. This had formerly been held in Flanders, and the removal
+of the market to England brought a great increase to the Royal revenue,
+for on every sack exported the King received a certain sum. Pennant
+says: "The concourse of people which this removal of the Woolstaple to
+Westminster occasioned caused this Royal village to grow into a
+considerable town."
+
+Henry VI. held six wool-houses in the Staple, which he granted to the
+Dean and Canons of St. Stephen's.
+
+Walcott says: "On the north side of the Long Staple was a turning in a
+westerly direction leading into the Round Staple, at the south-east end
+of the present King Street." This must have been on the site of the
+present Great George Street. An attempt was made to establish a
+fish-market here in competition with Billingsgate, but the
+pre-established interest was too strong and the fish-market was
+abandoned.
+
+There was a gateway at the end of the Staple. This was still in
+existence in 1741, when it was pulled down in view of the new bridge.
+
+There has been much dispute as to the origin of the name of Cannon Row.
+Some hold that it was derived from the prebendal houses of the Canons of
+St. Stephen's Chapel, and others that it was a corruption of Channel
+Row, from the arm of the river which entered near the spot. There were
+many noble houses here at one time. The Earl of Derby in 1552 had two
+houses, with gardens stretching to the river, granted to him by Edward
+VI.
+
+Anne, Duchess of Somerset, built a house here. The Marquis of Dorset's
+house gave its name to a court subsequently built on its site. In
+1556-57 the Earl of Sussex lived here, and in 1618 a later Earl of Derby
+built a house, afterwards used as the Admiralty Office. The name is
+preserved in Derby Street. The Earl of Essex, Lord Halifax, and the
+Bishop of Peterborough were all residents in this row. In the middle of
+the seventeenth century the Duke of Manchester, Lord Privy Seal,
+resided here also. At present the row is very dreary. The building in
+which the Civil Service examinations are held stands on the east side.
+This was erected in 1784 for the Ordnance Board, then given to the Board
+of Control, and finally to the Civil Service Commissioners.
+
+The Victoria Embankment was begun in 1864, and completed about six years
+later. The wall is of brick, faced with granite and founded in Portland
+cement; it looks solid enough to withstand the tides of many a hundred
+years. The parapet is of granite, decorated by cast-iron standard lamps.
+St Stephen's Club is on the Embankment, close by Westminster Bridge
+Station. Further on is the huge building of the Police Commissioners,
+known as New Scotland Yard, built in 1890 from designs of Norman Shaw,
+R.A. It is the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police Force, and the
+architecture is singularly well in keeping with its object. The building
+is of red brick, with the tower floors cased in granite. It is in the
+form of a square, built round an inner courtyard, and has an immense
+bastion at each exterior angle. Besides the offices of the police force,
+the Lost Property Office, the Public Carriage Office, and the Criminal
+Investigation Department are here. The building communicates directly by
+telephone with the Horse Guards, Houses of Parliament, British Museum,
+and other public places, and has telegraphic communication with the
+twenty-two head-offices of the Metropolitan Police district. The
+Criminal Museum is open to the public under certain conditions.
+
+Parliament Street and King Street have now been merged in one, and
+together have become a part of Whitehall, so that the very names will
+soon be forgotten. Yet King Street was once the direct land route to the
+Abbey and Palace from the north, and its narrow span was perforce wide
+enough for all the pageantry of funerals, coronations, and other State
+shows that passed through it. It must be remembered that King Street
+formerly ran right up to the Abbey precincts, from which it was
+separated by a gate-house, called Highgate, built by Richard II.; but
+the street was subsequently shorn of a third of its length, over which
+now grows green grass in smooth lawns. The street was very picturesque:
+"The houses rose up three and four stories high; gabled all, with
+projecting fronts, story above story, the timbers of the fronts painted
+and gilt, some of them with escutcheons hung in front, the richly
+blazoned arms brightening the narrow way." But it was also dirty: "The
+roadway was rough and full of holes; a filthy stream ran down the
+middle, all kinds of refuse were lying about." But what mattered that?
+No one went on foot who could possibly go by boat, and there lay the
+great highway of the river close at hand. We have said processions went
+down this street; among them we may number all the coronation
+processions up to the time when Parliament Street was cut through
+numerous small courts and by-streets in the reign of George II. Lord
+Howard of Effingham set out from King Street to fight the Spanish
+Armada. Charles I. came this way from Whitehall Palace to his trial at
+Westminster; he went back by the same route condemned to death; and
+later Cromwell's funeral procession followed the same route. Cromwell
+himself narrowly escaped assassination in this very street, where he had
+a house north of Boar's Head Yard. The story is told that he was in his
+state carriage, but owing to the crowd and narrow street he was
+separated from his guard. Suddenly Lord Broghill, who was with him, saw
+the door of a cobbler's stall open and shut, while something glittered
+behind it. He therefore got out of the carriage and hammered at the door
+with his scabbard, when a tall man, armed with a sword, rushed out and
+made his escape.
+
+Anne Oldfield was apprenticed to a seamstress in King Street. Sir Henry
+Wootton also lived here; and Ben Jonson says that Spenser died here for
+"lack of bread," and that the Earl of Essex sent him "20 pieces" on
+hearing of his poverty, but the poet refused them, saying they came too
+late. Fletcher wrote of him: "Poorly, poor man, he lived; poorly, poor
+man, he died." But it seems hardly credible he was so badly off as to be
+destitute, for he was at the time a pensioner of the Crown. Thomas Carew
+the poet lived in King Street. Most of the taverns in Westminster seem
+to have clustered about this street; we have the names of the Bell, the
+Boar's Head, and the Rhenish Wine House still handed down as places of
+importance. There were innumerable courts and alleys opening out of King
+Street. On the west, south of Downing Street, were Axe Yard, Sea Alley,
+Bell Yard, Antelope Alley. Gardener's Lane ran parallel with Charles
+Street; here Hollar the engraver died in extreme poverty in 1677.
+
+At the north end of King Street stood a second gate, called the King's
+Gate, and sometimes the Cockpit Gate. It stood at the corner of what is
+now Downing Street. It had four domed towers; on the south side were
+pilasters and an entablature enriched with the double rose, the
+portcullis, and the royal arms. The gate was removed in 1723.
+
+In the year 1605 a solemn function took place in which the gate played a
+part:
+
+"On January 4, 1605, when Prince Charles, Duke of Albany, then only four
+years old, was to be created Knight of the Bath, his esquires, the
+Earls of Oxford and Essex, with eleven noblemen who were to share in the
+honour, tooke their lodgings in the first Gate-house going to
+King's-streete, where they were all after supper, at which they sat by
+degrees, a row on the one side, with the armes of every of them over the
+seate where he was placed; and lodged upon severall pallets in one
+chamber, with their armes likewise over them, having their bathes
+provided for them in the chamber underneath. The next morning they went
+about through the gallory downe into the Parke in their hermits' weedes,
+the musitions playing, and the heralds going before them into The Court,
+and so into the Chapell, and there after solemn courtesies, like to the
+Knights of the Garter, first to the Altar, and then to the Cloath of
+Estate, every one took his place in the stalles of the Quier" (Walcott,
+p. 58).
+
+Great George Street, made 1750--at the same time as the Bridge, Bridge
+Street, etc.--contains the Institution of Civil Engineers, a fine
+building, and at the west end is Delahay Street, once Duke Street, a
+very fashionable locality in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
+The poet Matthew Prior lived here, and Bishop Stillingfleet died here in
+1699. Duke Street Chapel, recently pulled down, was a very well-known
+place; it was originally part of a house, overlooking the park built by
+Judge Jeffreys, and the steps into the park at Chapel Place were made
+for Jeffreys' special convenience. In this wing of his house he
+sometimes heard cases, and it was later made into a chapel for private
+subscribers. Jeffreys' house was also used for a time as the Admiralty
+Office. In Delahay Street may be noted the west end of the Boar's Head
+Court, marking the spot where Cromwell's house stood. The space between
+Great George Street and Charles Street will soon be covered by
+Government offices, now in course of erection. When Parliament Street
+was made it effaced Clinker's Court, White Horse Yard, Lady's Alley,
+Stephen's Alley, Rhenish Wine Yard, Brewers' Yard, and Pensioners'
+Alley--some of the slums which had sprung up outside the Abbey
+precincts. Now Parliament Street in its turn is effaced, swallowed up in
+an extended Whitehall. King Street has been completely swept away, as
+one sweeps a row of crumbs from a cloth, but the part it played in the
+ancient history of Westminster is not yet forgotten. Undoubtedly the
+change could be justified: the thoroughfare is an important one, the
+view as now seen from the direction of Charing Cross one of the finest
+in the world; yet to gain it we have had to give, and one wonders
+sometimes whether the gain counterbalances the loss.
+
+Beyond the now vacant space on the north are the great group of
+Government offices, the Home and Colonial Offices facing Parliament
+Street, and behind them the India and the Foreign Offices. Above Downing
+Street there are others, the Privy Council Office and the Treasury.
+
+Downing Street is called after George Downing, an American Ambassador to
+the Hague under Cromwell and in Charles II.'s reign. John Boyle, Earl of
+Cork and Ossory and the last Earl of Oxford, lived here. Boswell
+occupied a house in Downing Street in 1763. But the street is chiefly
+associated with the official residence of the First Lord of the
+Treasury. Sir Robert Walpole accepted this house from George II. on
+condition it should belong to his successors in office for ever.
+
+On the east side, nearly opposite Downing Street, Richmond Terrace
+stands on the site of the Duke of Richmond's house, burnt down in 1790.
+Beyond Richmond Terrace is Montagu House, the town residence of the Duke
+of Buccleuch; the present building, which is of stone, in the Italian
+style, dates from the middle of the nineteenth century.
+
+Beyond, again, are Whitehall Gardens, on part of the site of the Privy
+Gardens, belonging to Whitehall Palace. There is now a row of fine
+houses overlooking the Embankment and the Gardens. One of these was the
+residence of Sir Robert Peel. A great gallery of sculpture formerly
+extended along this part of the Embankment. It was partly destroyed in
+1778, and wholly burnt down some years later. Gwydyr House, a sombre
+brick building with heavy stone facings over the central window and
+doorway is now occupied by the Charity Commission; it was built by Adam.
+Adjoining it is a new building with an angle tower and cupola; this
+belongs to the Royal United Service Institute, and next door to it is
+the banqueting-hall, now used as the United Service Museum. This is the
+only fragment left of Whitehall Palace, and is described in detail on p.
+88.
+
+The gatehouse known as the Holbein Gate stood across Whitehall a little
+south of the banqueting-hall. It was the third, and the most magnificent
+of those which previously stood in Westminster, and was built by Henry
+VIII. after the design of Holbein. It is said that one of the chambers
+was Holbein's studio. Later it was used as a State Paper Office, and was
+removed in 1750 to widen the street. It was intended to rebuild it in
+Windsor Park, but this design was never carried out; though various
+fragments of it were afterwards worked into other buildings.
+
+It is a pity that it vanished, for it would have been a fine relic of
+the Tudor times, with its high angular towers and its elaborate
+decoration. It had a large central entrance and two smaller doorways
+beneath the towers. The brickwork was in diaper pattern, and the front
+ornamented with busts in niches--altogether a very elaborate piece of
+work.
+
+
+WHITEHALL PALACE.
+
+Hubert de Burgh bequeathed a house on this site to the Dominican Friars
+in the thirteenth century, and they sold it to the Archbishop of York.
+For 250 years it was the town-house of the Archbishops of that see, and
+when Wolsey became Archbishop he entered into his official residence
+with the intention of beautifying and enlarging it greatly; he had a
+passion for display, a quality which perhaps cost him more than he was
+ever aware of. It was a dangerous thing to build or rebuild great
+mansions close to the palace of so jealous a King as Henry VIII. It was
+especially dangerous to do so at Whitehall, because, as has been already
+shown, the King lived at Westminster in a congeries of old buildings
+more or less dilapidated and inconvenient. Wolsey's fall was doubtless
+hastened by his master's covetousness, and after it, by agreement with
+the Chapter of York, the King had the house conveyed to himself. Up to
+this time it had been known as York Place, but was henceforth Whitehall.
+At Anne Boleyn's coronation in the Abbey, the Royal party came to and
+from Whitehall.
+
+    "You must no more call it York Place--that is past
+    For, since the Cardinal fell, that title's lost;
+    'Tis now the King's and call'd Whitehall."
+
+    '_King Henry VIII._,' Act IV.
+
+It must be remembered that there was then no Parliament Street, and the
+palace buildings occupied all the ground from Old Scotland Yard to
+Downing Street, from St. James's Park to the river. King Henry added
+very much to the land belonging to the palace, also to the buildings. He
+was fond of sport, and his additions show his tastes in this direction;
+he built a tennis-court, a tilt-yard,--on the site of the Horse
+Guards--a bowling-green, and a cockpit. The exact site of the cockpit
+has long been a matter of uncertainty, but it is now very generally
+believed that the entrance was just where the present Treasury entrance
+is.
+
+The palace does not seem to have been very homogeneous; it contained
+three courts, including Old Scotland Yard, in which was the Guard House.
+The King and Queen occupied the first court, where was what remained of
+old York House; here also was the great Hall, the Presence Chamber, and
+the Banqueting House. In the second court was the way to the Audience
+and Council Chambers, the Chapel, the offices of the Palace, and the
+Watergate.
+
+Henry VIII. died in this palace, and all the noble names of his and the
+succeeding reigns seem to haunt the site of the now vanished building.
+Here came Sir Thomas More, Erasmus and Thomas Cromwell; Holbein occupied
+a set of apartments, and received a salary of 200 florins for painting
+and decorating the rooms. Here are the ghosts of Cranmer, Katharine of
+Aragon, Jane Seymour, Latimer and Ridley; later we see a courtlier
+gathering--Cecil, Essex, Leicester, Raleigh, Drake, Walsingham, Philip
+Sydney. So true it is, the King doth make the Court. Some time later, in
+the reign of Charles II., we have a different class of men
+altogether--Monk, Clarendon, Sedley, Rochester, Wycherley, Dryden,
+Butler, Suckling, Carew. Here came crowds to be touched for the King's
+evil. Here the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth implored pardon at his
+uncle's feet in vain. Whitehall was also the home of the short-lived
+masque, a form of entertainment extremely costly.
+
+In 1691 a fire broke out, and all the buildings between the stone
+gallery and the river were burned down, and six years later another fire
+finished nearly all that the first had left.
+
+Inigo Jones prepared plans for a new palace that should eclipse the old,
+and his designs lacked not anything on the side of magnificence; if the
+palace had been built as he designed, it would have exceeded in
+splendour any building now in London, but he did not finish it. Like
+William Rufus with Westminster Palace, like many another architect, his
+plans demanded more than his allotted span of years, and before he could
+do more than put his imagination upon paper, and realize but a fragment
+of it in stone, he was called away from a world dependent on the "work
+of men's hands."
+
+The fragment he has left us still stands; it was to be the
+banqueting-hall, but no Royal banquets were held there; it was used as a
+Chapel Royal for many years, and is now the home of the United Service
+Museum. For the magnificent ceiling painted by Rubens we are indebted to
+Charles I., who also designed to have the walls painted by Vandyck, a
+still more costly operation, which was never carried out. The
+weathercock on the north end was put up by order of James II., so that
+he might see whether the wind was for or against the dreaded Dutch
+fleet. The building has one association never to be forgotten. On that
+black day when England shamed herself before the nations by spilling the
+blood of her King, the scaffold was erected before this building, though
+the exact site is unknown. It is believed that the window second from
+the north end is that in front of which it stood, and that the King
+stepped forth from a window in a small outbuilding on the north side; he
+came forth to die, the only innocent man in all that great crowd, who
+watched him suffer without raising a finger to save him. At that time
+the present windows were not glazed, but walled in. William III. talked
+of rebuilding the palace, but he died too soon. Queen Anne went to St.
+James's, and Whitehall was never rebuilt.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Horse Guards is almost directly opposite the Banqueting House, and
+stands on the site of an old house for the Gentlemen Pensioners who
+formed the guard when there was not a standing army in England. This
+itself superseded the tilt-yard built by King Henry VIII., though the
+actual yard was the wide space at the back of the building, which still
+witnesses the trooping of the colours and other ceremonies on state
+occasions. It is interesting to notice that the words "Tilt-yard Guards"
+still occur in the regulations hung up inside the sentry-boxes where the
+magnificent sentries keep guard, to the wonder and admiration of every
+small boy who passes.
+
+The whole of St. James's Park is now included in the City of
+Westminster, but only the south-east part is in the parish of St.
+Margaret's, which we are now considering. The remainder will be found
+described in the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, which is included
+in the electoral district of the Strand in the same series. In "The
+Strand District" there are also full accounts of St. James's Palace, and
+of Buckingham Palace.
+
+The spot now known as St. James's Park was once a dismal marshy field.
+In 1531 Henry VIII. obtained some of the land from the Abbey of
+Westminster, and in the following year he proceeded to erect what is now
+St. James's Palace, on the site of a former leper hospital. The park,
+however, seems to have remained in a desolate condition until the reign
+of James I., who took a great interest in it, and established a
+menagerie here which he often visited. The popularity of the park
+continued throughout the Stuart period. Charles II. after the
+Restoration employed a Frenchman, Le Notre, to lay out the grounds, and
+under his advice the canal was formed from the chain of pools that
+spread across the low-lying ground, and also a decoy, where ducks and
+wildfowl resorted. Rosamund's Pond, an oblong pool, lay at the
+south-west end of the canal. Of the origin of this name there is no
+record, though Rosamund's land is mentioned as early as 1531. A new Mall
+was laid out soon after the Restoration, and preserved with great care.
+Powdered cockleshells were sprinkled over the earth to keep it firm. As
+the game of pall-mall went out of fashion the Mall became a promenade,
+and was the resort of the Court. A pheasant-walk was also formed where
+Marlborough House now stands. There are two ancient views of the park
+extant, in one of which the heads of Cromwell, Ireton and Bradshaw stuck
+upon poles at the end of Westminster Hall are visible, and in the other,
+a figure walking in the foreground is supposed to be Charles II.
+himself. The park was not opened to the public at this time, but those
+whose houses bordered it appear to have been allowed free entrance.
+Milton, the poet, certainly strolled here from his house in Petty
+France.
+
+Charles II. himself frequently used it, and kept his pet animals here,
+and the lords and ladies of his time made it their fashionable
+rendezvous. The park is mentioned constantly by Pepys and Evelyn. A
+couple of oaks planted by Charles from acorns brought from Boscobel
+survived until 1833, when they were blown down.
+
+The origin of the name of Birdcage Walk has been disputed. It has been
+derived from "boccage," meaning avenue; another account says it was from
+the bird-cages of the King's aviary, which were hung in the trees. This
+seems more probable.
+
+For many reigns St. James's Park continued to be a fashionable place of
+resort. In 1770 Rosamund's Pond was filled up, and the moat round Duck
+Island was filled in. In 1779 a gentleman was killed in a duel in the
+park.
+
+In 1827-29 the park was finally laid out and the canal converted into a
+piece of ornamental water under the superintendence of Nash. In 1857 the
+lake was cleared out to a uniform depth of four feet and the present
+bridge erected, and the park became something like what we see at the
+present time. The vicinity of Marlborough House and Buckingham Palace
+still give it a certain distinction, but it cannot be called in any
+sense fashionable, as it was in the later Stuart times. And in the midst
+of the park we must take leave of our present district, having rambled
+within its borders east and west, north and south, and having met in the
+process the ghosts of kings and queens, of statesmen and authors, of men
+of the Court and men of the Church, those who have made history in the
+past and laid the foundations for the glory of the future.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abbey, The, 45
+
+Almonry, 34, 36
+
+Almshouses:
+   Butler's, 8, 29
+   Henry VII.'s, 37
+   Hill's, 8
+   Palmer's, 8, 29
+   Vandon's, 29
+
+Antelope Alley, 80
+
+Aquarium, The, 34
+
+Artillery Row, 6
+
+Ashburnham House, 65
+
+Atterbury, Bishop, 65
+
+Axe Yard, 80
+
+
+Banqueting-hall, 88
+
+Barton Street, 20
+
+Bell Yard, 80
+
+Bentham, Jeremy, 14, 29, 30, 32
+
+Betterton, Thomas, 34
+
+Big Ben, 75
+
+Birdcage Walk, 30, 91
+
+Black Horse Yard, 33
+
+Blood, Colonel, 18
+
+Boar's Head Court, 82
+
+Boswell, 83
+
+Bowring, Sir John, 33
+
+Brewers' Yard, 82
+
+Bridewell, 5
+
+Bridge Street, 42, 75
+
+Broad and Little Sanctuary, 42
+
+Broadway, The, 33
+
+Burke, Edmund, 34, 39
+
+Busby, Dr., 64
+
+
+Cannon Row, 76
+
+Capel, Lord, 69
+
+Carew, Thomas, 80
+
+Castle Lane, 26
+
+Caxton, 35
+
+Caxton Street, 27
+
+Chapel Street, 27
+
+Charles I., 73, 79, 88
+
+Charles II., 90
+
+Chaucer, Geoffrey, 69
+
+Churches:
+   St. Ann's Chapel, 37
+   Cathedral (Roman Catholic), 4
+   Chapel Royal, 88
+   Christ Church, 28
+   Duke Street Chapel, 81
+   Guards' Chapel, 31
+   St. John the Evangelist, 17
+   St. Margaret's, 57
+   St. Mary's, 9
+   St. Matthew's, 23
+   New Chapel, 28
+   St. Stephen's, 8
+   St. Stephen's Chapel, 70
+   Westminster Abbey, 45
+   Westminster Chapel, 26
+
+Church House, 22
+
+Church Street, 17
+
+Clinker's Court, 82
+
+"Clochard," 67
+
+Clock Tower, 75
+
+Cockpit, 86
+
+Cock public-house, 34
+
+Commons, The, 73
+
+Cowley, 65
+
+Cowper, Thomas, 65
+
+Cromwell, 79
+
+
+Dacre, Lady, 26
+
+Delahay Street, 81
+
+Derby, Earl of, 76
+
+Derwentwater, Lord, 73
+
+Dorset, Marquis of, 76
+
+Douglas, Earl, 69
+
+Douglas, Sir William, 69
+
+Douglas Street, 9
+
+Downing, George, 83
+
+Downing Street, 83
+
+Dryden, 64, 65
+
+Duck Lane, 23, 27
+
+Duke Street, 81
+
+
+Edward V., 42
+
+Eliot, Sir John, 39
+
+Essex, Earl of, 76
+
+
+Free Library, 21, 34
+
+
+Gardener's Lane, 43, 80
+
+Gatehouse, 37
+
+Gibbon, 20, 65
+
+Glover, 25
+
+Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, 39
+
+Great College Street, 20
+
+Great George Street, 76, 81
+
+Great Peter Street, 23
+
+Great Queen Street, 33
+
+Great St. Ann's Lane, 19, 23
+
+Great Smith Street, 21
+
+Greycoat Place, 6
+
+Grosvenor Road, 12
+
+Guildhall, 41
+
+Gwydyr House, 84
+
+
+Halifax, Lord, 76
+
+Hamilton, Duke of, 69
+
+Hampden, 39
+
+Hastings, Warren, 65, 73
+
+Hazlitt, 29
+
+Herrick, 23
+
+High Gate, 39, 78
+
+Holbein Gate, 84
+
+Holland, Earl of, 69
+
+Hollar, the engraver, 80
+
+Home and Colonial Offices, 83
+
+Horseferry Road, 10, 16
+
+Horse Guards, 89
+
+Hospitals:
+   Coldstream Guards, 9
+   Emanuel, 26
+   Grenadier Guards, 8
+   Grosvenor Hospital for Women & Children, 9
+   Scots Guards, 12
+   Westminster, 40
+
+Houses of Parliament, 67
+
+Howard, 14
+
+Howard of Effingham, Lord, 78
+
+Hudson, Sir Jeffrey, 39
+
+
+India and Foreign Offices, 83
+
+Institution of Civil Engineers, 81
+
+
+Jeffreys, Judge, 81
+
+John, King of France, 73
+
+Jonson, Ben, 70
+
+
+Keats, 20, 21
+
+Kenmure, Lord, 73
+
+Kennet, Dr. White, 25
+
+King's Gate, 80
+
+King's House, 70
+
+King's slaughter-house, 20
+
+King Street, 42, 78
+
+
+Lady's Alley, 82
+
+Leighton, Alexander, 69
+
+Lewisham Street, 40
+
+Liddell, 65
+
+Lilly, the astrologer, 39
+
+Litlington, Abbot, 16, 20, 64
+
+Little Chapel Street, 29
+
+Little College Street, 20
+
+Little George Street, 42
+
+Little Peter Street, 23
+
+Little Queen Street, 33
+
+Little Smith Street, 18
+
+Long Ditch, 40, 42
+
+Long Lane, 43
+
+Lovelace, Colonel, 38
+
+Lovelace, Thomas, 69
+
+
+Manchester, Duke of, 77
+
+Marlborough House, 90
+
+Marsham Street, 18
+
+Marvell, Andrew, 29
+
+Millbank Penitentiary, 14
+
+Millbank Street, 16
+
+Mill, James, 33
+
+Milton, 29, 91
+
+Montagu House, 83
+
+Monuments. _See Abbey_
+
+More, Sir Thomas, 73
+
+
+New Palace Yard, 67
+
+New Scotland Yard, 77
+
+
+Oates, Titus, 39, 69
+
+Oldfield, Anne, 79
+
+Old Palace Yard, 69
+
+Old Pye Street, 22
+
+Old Rochester Row, 6
+
+Orchard Street, 22
+
+
+Page, Robert, 68
+
+Palace Hotel, 34
+
+Palmer's Passage, 29
+
+Palmer's Village, 4
+
+Parker Street, 40
+
+Parliament Street, 78, 82
+
+Peabody's Buildings, 22
+
+Peel, Sir Robert, 83
+
+Pensioners' Alley, 82
+
+Pest-houses, 12
+
+Peterborough, Bishop of, 76
+
+Peterborough House, 15
+
+Petty France, 29
+
+Prince's Street, 40
+
+Prior, Matthew, 81
+
+Privy Council Office, 83
+
+Privy Gardens, 83
+
+Public Baths and Wash-houses, 22
+
+Purcell, 19, 23
+
+Pye, Sir Robert, 22
+
+Pye Street, 22
+
+
+Queen Anne's Bounty Office, 22
+
+Queen Anne's Gate, 32
+
+Queen Anne's Mansions, 30, 32
+
+Queen Square, 32
+
+
+Raleigh, Sir Walter, 37
+
+Rhenish Wine Yard, 82
+
+Richmond Terrace, 83
+
+Rochester Row, 7
+
+Romney Street, 18
+
+Royal Architectural Museum, 19
+
+Royal Maundy, 36
+
+Royal United Service Institute, 84
+
+Russell, Lord John, 65
+
+
+Sanctuary, The, 41
+
+Sanquire, Lord, 69
+
+Savage, Richard, 39
+
+Schools:
+   Bluecoat, 27
+   Greencoat, 5
+   Greycoat, 6
+   Medical, 28
+   St. Andrew's, 25
+   United Westminster, 5, 24
+   Westminster, 62
+
+Sea Alley, 80
+
+Seven Bishops, 73
+
+Smith Square, 18
+
+Southerne, Thomas, 21
+
+Spenser, 79
+
+Stafford Place, 25
+
+Stafford, Viscount, 25
+
+Stanley, Dean, 21
+
+St. Ann's Street, 23
+
+Stationary Office, 40
+
+Steele, Sir Richard, 21
+
+Stephen's Alley, 82
+
+St. Ermin's Mansions, 28
+
+St. James's Park, 89
+
+St. John's Burial-ground, 10
+
+St. John's snuff-box, 18
+
+St. Margaret's loving-cup, 61
+
+St. Matthew's Street, 23
+
+Stourton Street, 24
+
+Strutton Ground, 23
+
+St. Stephen's Club, 77
+
+Stubbs, John, 68
+
+Sussex, Earl of, 76
+
+
+Tart Hall, 25
+
+Tate Gallery, 13
+
+Taverns, 80
+
+Thieving Lane, 39, 42
+
+Thorne, Mr., 20
+
+Thorney, the Isle of Bramble, 43, 44
+
+Tothill Fields, 9
+
+Tothill Fields Prison, 5
+
+Tothill Street, 19, 34
+
+Town Hall, 28
+
+Treasury, 83, 86
+
+Tufton Street, 18
+
+Turpin, Dick, 33
+
+
+Union Street, 43
+
+
+Vandon, Cornelius, 29
+
+Vauxhall Bridge Road, 12
+
+Victoria Embankment, 77
+
+Victoria Public Garden, 21
+
+Victoria Street, 4
+
+Victoria Tower, 74
+
+Vincent Square, 9
+
+
+Walcott, 20
+
+Waller, Sir William, 29
+
+Walpole, Sir Robert, 83
+
+Warbeck, Perkin, 68
+
+Watney's Brewery, 24
+
+Wellington Barracks, 30
+
+Wesley, Charles, 65
+
+Wesley, John, 22
+
+Westminster Bridge Station, 77
+
+Westminster Hall, 72
+
+_Westminster Review_, 33
+
+Westminster School, 62
+
+Whitehall Gardens, 83
+
+Whitehall Palace, 85
+
+White Horse Yard, 82
+
+Wilberforce, 65
+
+Woffington, Peg, 33
+
+Wolsey, 85
+
+Woolstaple, 75
+
+Wootton, Sir Henry, 79
+
+
+York, Archbishop of, 85
+
+York Street, 29
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration: WESTMINSTER DISTRICT
+
+Published by A. & C. Black, London.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Westminster, by
+Sir Walter Besant and Geraldine Edith Mitton and A. Murray Smith
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WESTMINSTER ***
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