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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In and Around Berlin, by Minerva Brace Norton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In and Around Berlin
+
+Author: Minerva Brace Norton
+
+Release Date: June 1, 2007 [EBook #21654]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AND AROUND BERLIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Jeannie Howse and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
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+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+    | Transcriber's Note:                                       |
+    |                                                           |
+    | Inconsistent hyphenation in the original document has     |
+    | been preserved.                                           |
+    |                                                           |
+    | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this  |
+    | text. For a complete list, please see the end of this     |
+    | document.                                                 |
+    |                                                           |
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+IN AND AROUND BERLIN
+
+
+
+BY
+
+MINERVA BRACE NORTON
+
+
+
+
+
+CHICAGO
+A.C. MCCLURG AND COMPANY
+1889
+
+
+
+
+COPYRIGHT
+BY A.C. MCCLURG AND COMPANY
+A.D. 1889
+
+
+
+
+TO MY HUSBAND,
+
+WHOSE GENEROUS SYMPATHY MADE POSSIBLE THESE PAGES;
+
+To my Countrymen and Countrywomen
+
+WHO HAVE VISITED BERLIN;
+
+TO THOSE WHO HOPE TO GO THERE,
+
+AND TO THE
+
+LARGER NUMBER OF ARMCHAIR TRAVELLERS,
+
+I Dedicate this Book.
+
+M.B.N.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAP.                                                        PAGE
+   I. FIRST IMPRESSIONS                                         9
+
+  II. FAMILY AND SOCIAL LIFE                                   20
+
+ III. EDUCATION                                                51
+
+  IV. CHURCHES                                                 79
+
+   V. MUSEUMS                                                 103
+
+  VI. THE GERMAN REICHSTAG AND THE PRUSSIAN PARLIAMENT        125
+
+ VII. PROMINENT PERSONAGES                                    133
+
+VIII. THE EMPEROR'S NINETIETH BIRTHDAY                        159
+
+  IX. STREETS, PARKS, CEMETERIES, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS        179
+
+   X. PALACES                                                 195
+
+  XI. THE HOMES OF THE HUMBOLDTS                              209
+
+ XII. PHILANTHROPIC WORK                                      221
+
+XIII. AROUND BERLIN                                           249
+
+
+
+
+IN AND AROUND BERLIN.
+
+
+I.
+
+FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
+
+
+It was seven o'clock of a gray November morning when we arrived in
+Berlin for our first residence abroad. The approach to the city
+reminded us of the newer parts of New York, and we found that the
+population was about the same. But here the resemblance ceases. New
+York is the metropolis of a great nation,--the heart whence arterial
+supplies go forth, and to which all returning channels converge; the
+cosmopolitan centre of a New World. Berlin is the increasingly
+important capital of the German Empire,--growing rapidly, but still
+the royal impersonation of Prussia and the Hohenzollerns; seated in
+something of mediæval costume and quiet beside the river Spree; as
+content to cast a satisfied glance backward to Frederick the Great and
+the Electors of Brandenburg as to look forward to imperial supremacy
+among the Great Powers, and the championship of continental Protestant
+Europe.
+
+There is one continuous thread woven through the old history and the
+new, and this appeared in the first hour of our stay. Everywhere on
+the streets the one thing most strange to our American eyes was the
+number of striking military uniforms mingled with the more sober garb
+of civilians. Officers of fine form and gentlemanly bearing, in
+uniforms of dark blue with scarlet trimmings and long, dragging,
+rattling swords, were commanding the evolutions of infantry in the
+main streets; while frequent glimpses of gold-laced light blue or
+scarlet jackets or of plumed and helmeted hussars animated the scene
+on the crowded sidewalks. Germany is, as it has been from the
+beginning, a military power.
+
+We drove first to the home of an American friend. We were not prepared
+for the four long flights of stairs up which we were directed by the
+porter on the ground floor. "What reverses of fortune have come to
+A.," thought we, "that she lives in an attic!" The tenement was a good
+one, to be sure, when we found it,--large and lofty apartments with
+many windows, commanding a fine view. But to one unused to many
+stairs, and weakened by continuous illness in a long sea-voyage, the
+exhaustion of that first ascent was something to be remembered. It
+was, however, but the precursor of hundreds of similar feats, which
+our residence involved, as nearly all families live up several flights
+of stairs. Only once did we see an elevator in Germany. In the elegant
+hotel known as the Kaiserhof, the sojourning-place of princes,
+diplomatists, and statesmen, we took our seats in a commodious
+elevator, rejoiced at the thought of such an American way of getting
+upstairs. It was fully five minutes before we reached the moderate
+elevation of the corridor on which our rooms opened; the liveried and
+intelligent official in charge, evidently a personage of importance,
+meanwhile replying to our queries and enjoying our evident surprise at
+the slow motion, until we forgot our annoyance in the interest of the
+conversation which ensued before we reached our destination. Once I
+was toiling up the four flights which led to the residence of a
+cultivated German lady, in company with the hostess. "Oh," I said
+breathlessly, "would there were elevators in Germany!"
+
+"Yes," courteously responded the lady; adding, with a resigned sigh,
+the conclusive words which indicated contentment with her lot, "but it
+is not ze custom."
+
+It was late in the season, and our lodgings were not engaged in
+advance. Americans in increasing numbers make Berlin a winter
+residence, and by October the most desirable _pensions_ generally have
+their rooms engaged. By the kind offices of our friend, our famishing
+party were provided with the rolls and coffee which compose the
+continental breakfast, and a fortunate entrance was, after much
+seeking, obtained for us to a most desirable boarding-house. Our own
+apartment was a large corner room, with immense windows looking north
+and east, and, like nearly all rooms in Berlin houses, connected by
+double doors with the apartments on either side. A fire was built
+before we took possession, but it was two days before we ceased to
+shiver. We looked for the stove of which we had heard. More than one
+of the five senses were called into requisition to determine which
+article of furniture was entitled to that designation. Across one
+corner of the room stood a tall white monument composed of glazed
+tiles laid in mortar, built into the room as a chimney might have
+been, with a hidden flue in the rear connecting it with the wall. A
+drab cornice and plaster ornaments of the same color set off the four
+or five feet above the mantel which surrounded it, and a brass door,
+about ten inches by twelve, was in the middle front of the part below.
+On the mantel were disposed sundry ornaments, including vases of dried
+grasses, and the hand could always be held upon the tiles against
+which they stood. In a small fireplace within this unique mass of
+tiles and mortar, the housemaid would place a dozen pieces of
+coal-cake once or at most twice a day, and after allowing a few
+minutes for the kindling to set it aglow, would close and lock the
+triple door, and the fire was made for twenty-four hours. In two or
+three hours after the lighting of the fire, the temperature of the
+room, if other conditions were favorable, might be slightly raised. To
+raise it five to ten degrees would require from six to ten hours.
+
+In response to our request to the landlady for an addition of cold
+meat or steak to the coffee and rolls of the breakfast, and for more
+warmth in the room, accompanied by an expression of willingness to
+make additional payment for the same, the reply, given in a courteous
+manner, was that Americans lived in rooms much too warm, and ate too
+much meat, and that it would be for their health in Germany to conform
+to the German customs. However, some spasmodic efforts were made, for
+a season, to comply with the requests, which before long were wholly
+discontinued; and the strangers learned the wisdom of accommodating
+themselves "in Rome" to the ways of the Romans. This, however, was not
+accomplished without continued suffering. The meagre "first
+breakfast," served about half-past eight o'clock, was supplemented by
+a "second breakfast" of a cup of chocolate or beef tea, at about
+eleven, to those who were then in the house and made known their
+desire for it. But the days were short. Berlin is about six hundred
+miles nearer the north pole than New York, in the latitude of Labrador
+and the southern part of Hudson's Bay. The climate is milder only
+because the Gulf Stream kindly sends its warmth over all Europe,
+which lies in much higher latitudes than we are wont to think.
+Consequently the days in winter are much shorter than ours, as in
+summer they are longer. All the mid-winter daylight of Berlin is
+between the hours of eight A.M. and four P.M. With dinner at two
+o'clock, from which we rose about three, there was too little light
+remaining for visits to museums and other places of interest, so that
+the chief sightseeing of the day must be put into the hours between
+nine and two o'clock, often far from residence or restaurants; so the
+work of the day must be done on insufficient food, and the prevailing
+physical sensation was that of being an animated empty cask. We thus
+reached a settled conviction that however well the continental
+breakfast may serve the needs of Germans, with their slow ways of
+working, and their heavy suppers of sausage, black bread, and beer,
+late at night, an American home for Americans temporarily in Berlin is
+a consummation much to be wished.
+
+It is almost with a feeling of despair that many a woman first unpacks
+her trunk in the Berlin apartment which, according to general custom,
+is to serve her for sleeping-room, breakfast-room, study, and
+reception-room. In a lengthened sojourn, in hotels, _pensions_, and
+private residences, I never saw a closet opening from such an
+apartment. Indeed, there were, in the houses I visited, no closets of
+any kind; unless an unlighted, unventilated cubic space in the middle
+of the house or near the kitchen--the upper half often devoted to
+sleeping room for domestics, and the lower to a general rendezvous of
+odds and ends--might be dignified with that name. A statement which I
+once ventured in conversation, as to the closets opening from nearly
+every room of an American house, was received with a look of
+incredulity and wonder. Neither did I see a real bureau in Berlin. A
+poor substitute was a portable piece of furniture, often quite
+ornamental, which opened by doors, exposing all the shelves whenever
+an article on any one of them was wanted. Here must be kept bonnets,
+hats, gloves, ribbons, laces, underwear, and all the thousand
+accumulations of the toilet; while a cramped "wardrobe" was the
+receptacle of shoes, cloaks, and dresses, hung perhaps three or four
+or five deep on the half-dozen wooden pegs within. Bathrooms were the
+rare exceptions. As a rule, bathing must be done with a sponge and
+cold water, in one's private apartment, where are no faucets, drains,
+or set bowls, but the ordinary wash-bowl, pitcher, and jar. Evidently
+German civilization does not rate the bath very high among the
+comforts of life.
+
+An essential part of the furniture in the kind of apartment I am
+describing, is a screen to stand before each bed and wash-stand. The
+beds are invariably single, two or more being placed in a room when
+needed, the screens, by day, transforming the room into a parlor.
+There are no carpets. On the oiled or painted wooden floors rugs are
+placed before the beds, before the sofa, and under the table which
+always stands before it. One luxury is seldom wanting,--a good
+writing-desk, with pens and ink ready for use. It is no trouble to a
+German hostess to increase or diminish the number of beds in a room,
+the narrow bedsteads being carried with ease through the double doors,
+from room to room, as convenience requires.
+
+Pictures are on the walls,--not often remarkable as works of art, but
+most frequently stimulants to love of country,--portraits of the
+Kaiser and the Crown Prince, and battle scenes in which glory is
+reflected on the Prussian arms. Every window is double; the two outer
+vertical halves opening on hinges outward, and the inner opening in
+the same manner into the room. Graceful lace drapery is the rule, over
+plain cotton hangings or Venetian blinds.
+
+The arrangement of the bedding is peculiar. Over a set of wire springs
+is laid the mattress, in a closely fitting white case, buttoned, tied,
+or laced together at one end. This case takes the place of an under
+sheet. The feather pillow is in a plain slip of white cotton,
+similarly fastened. Over the whole a blanket or comfortable is laid,
+securely enfolded in another white case, which also serves instead of
+an upper sheet. Over this is the feather bed, usually encased in
+colored print, sometimes of bright colors. Under this one always
+sleeps. Over the bed, from low head-board to foot-board, is stretched
+by day the uppermost covering. Ours was of maroon cotton flannel,
+bordered in front by a flounce intended to be ornamental. The custom
+is to furnish clean cases and pillow-slips once a month, and it is
+difficult to secure more frequent changes of bed-linen.
+
+Ventilation is something of which the Germans are particularly afraid.
+The impure air of schools, halls, churches, and other places of
+assemblage is dreadful, and a draught is regarded as the messenger of
+death. When our landlady found that we were in the habit of sleeping
+with our windows open, most emphatic remonstrance was made, with the
+assurance that this would never do in Berlin. However, like the
+drinking of water, against which also warnings are customary, the
+breathing of fresh air was to us followed by no harmful results.
+
+These differences in habits and customs of household life, like the
+sounds of a strange language, affect the traveller unpleasantly at
+first. But differences in national customs are natural and inevitable,
+and one gradually becomes accustomed to them, and enabled to live a
+happy life in spite of them, as appreciation grows when acquaintance
+has made one familiar with many interesting and excellent aspects of
+existence here.
+
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+FAMILY AND SOCIAL LIFE.
+
+
+Holidays and birthdays are more scrupulously and formally observed in
+Germany than with us. There are cakes and lighted candles and flowers
+for the one whose birthday makes him for the time the most important
+personage in the family, and who sits in holiday dress in the
+reception-room, to receive the calls and congratulations of friends.
+Those who cannot call send letters and presents, which are displayed,
+with those received from the family, on a table devoted to the
+purpose; and the array is often quite extensive. The presents are
+seldom extravagant, consisting largely of the ornamental handiwork of
+friends and of useful articles of clothing for common use.
+
+A genuine German family festival on Christmas eve is a pleasant thing
+to see. We accepted with pleasure the invitation of Frau B---- and her
+family, to be present at theirs. In a large _salon_ adjoining that
+where the table was laid for supper, was another long table spread
+with a white cloth. Toward the farther end of the table stood a tall
+Christmas-tree, decked with various simple ornaments; and the candles
+on it were lighted with a little ceremony, the chubby granddaughter of
+three years pointing her bare arm and uplifted forefinger to the tree,
+and reciting a short poem appropriate to the occasion, as we entered
+the room, about half-past seven o'clock. Then the beautiful and
+winning child found her toys, her lovely wax doll and its cradle, and
+another doll of rubber, small and homely, on which, after the fashion
+of little mothers, she imprinted her most affectionate kisses.
+Suddenly the room was radiant with a contagious happiness. "The little
+Fräulein," daughter of the hostess, just engaged by cable to a
+gentleman in America, had found his picture, wreathed with fresh and
+fragrant rosebuds, among her presents; and the smiles and blushes
+chased each other over her face, as the engagement was thus announced
+by her mother to the assembled guests. She answered her
+congratulations by more blushes and smiles, laying her hand on her
+heart, and saying with true German frankness, "Oh, I am so happy!" No
+presents hung on the tree, but those intended for each person were in
+a group beside a plate of cakes and bonbons, with a card bearing the
+name. Each of the company found his own, delicately assisted by the
+hostess and her daughters. Then the servants were called in, to find
+their presents on side tables, to receive and express good wishes and
+thanks, and to join in the general joy of the household over the
+engagement. After supper in the dining-room, we talked awhile, there
+was music from the piano, then the married daughter and her family
+withdrew with kind "good-nights;" and before a late hour all the other
+guests had done the same, not, however, until the national airs of
+America and of Scotland had been sung by all present, in honor of the
+guests from these countries.
+
+Private hospitality is kind and open, but so far as our observation
+went, conducted within certain specified limits seldom overstepped.
+Order of precedence is carefully observed, and more honor is shown to
+age than with us. The best seat in the drawing-room is the sofa. A
+single guest would never be offered any other place, and among a
+number the eldest or the most honored would be invariably conducted
+there. Hence no one would venture to take this place of honor
+uninvited. Sometimes one is secretly glad of not being invited to
+crowd behind the table which usually stands, covered with a spread,
+inconveniently close before the sofa, and of having instead a chair,
+with a better support for the back.
+
+One is expected to bow to the hostess and to each guest on coming to
+the table, and also on leaving it. Odd as this seems at first, it soon
+becomes a habit rather pleasant than burdensome, and one grows
+insensibly to admire the outward politeness of this German custom.
+Greetings and farewells are more ceremonious, even between intimate
+friends, than with us; and to omit a ceremonious leave-taking or to
+substitute a light bow and "good day" would not make a pleasant
+impression on a German hostess. Americans, especially young ladies,
+are much criticised for their independence and lack of courtesy. A
+German friend told me that a young American lady who had formerly
+been an inmate of her family called to bid her good-by before leaving
+Berlin. "I was amazed," she said, "at such politeness." It is not
+alone in matters of courtesy that young American ladies shock the
+Germans. Though a young lady has more freedom in Germany than in
+France and Italy, she is expected to conform carefully to the custom
+of going out in the evening or travelling only in company with a
+relative if a gentleman, or with an older lady. It is true that
+American girls are forgiven some liberties which no German girl would
+think of taking, on the ground of American customs; and a careful,
+well-bred young lady, from our side the water will seldom fall into
+serious trouble if she observes the rule of not going out unattended.
+But young ladies from America in Europe hold largely the honor of
+their country in their hands, and they ought to recognize this
+responsibility.
+
+German politeness has also a reverse side. Perhaps the general absence
+of higher education among German women leaves them an especial prey to
+idle curiosity and gossip. Not only is one questioned freely as to the
+cost of any article of dress by comparative strangers, but questions
+as to one's family and private affairs are common, almost customary.
+Conversation which does not turn upon such things, or on others
+equally trivial and irrelevant, is the exception. The recital on their
+part, however, of personal and family history has a charming
+good-nature and simplicity, and often a touch of the homely and
+pathetic, which reach the heart of the listener. There were few tables
+where the conversation was not too loud for our comfort. No one seemed
+particularly to care for quiet talk with his neighbor, but the
+conversation at a long table was a rattling sharpshooting or a heavy
+cannonade from one end to the other, mingled with hearty laughter,
+while "Attic salt" was sparing. Table-manners, even among otherwise
+charming people, were often shocking to the taste of Americans. What
+we should call the first principles of good-breeding were freely
+contravened. The nicety and daintiness which in some favored American
+and English homes make of the family board a visible and tangible
+poem, were very rare in our German experience. And yet there are
+charming German tables and well-bred German ladies and gentlemen. One
+custom which we have been taught to regard as vulgar and profane is
+that of constantly using the names of the Deity by way of exclamation
+and emphasis in the most ordinary conversation. Being on sufficiently
+intimate terms with a German lady, we one day ventured to inquire
+deprecatingly about this habit. "Everybody does it," was her candid
+reply; and this was the only reason we ever heard.
+
+"George Eliot" long ago complained of the inconvenience of
+perambulating Berlin streets, where you are pushed off the sidewalks
+and are in constant danger of involuntary surgical experience through
+contact with the military swords that clank and clatter in the crowd.
+There is still room for improvement in this respect. The owners of
+sabres often seem to take it for granted that the right of way belongs
+first of all to them and their weapons, and if any one is thus
+inconvenienced that is the business of the unlucky party. The streets
+and sidewalks are much wider and less crowded than those in Boston;
+but a collision on a Boston sidewalk is rare, while a half-dozen rude
+ones in an hour is a daily expectation in Berlin. A Berlin pedestrian
+"to the manner born," in blind momentum and disregard of all
+obstacles, has no equal in our experience.
+
+It was told me that if you are run over by the swiftly driven horses
+in the streets, you must pay a fine for obstructing the way.
+Remembering that many regulations are relics of the times when laws
+were made for the good of the aristocracy who ride, and not for the
+vulgar crowd who walk, we did not try the experiment. Mounted
+policemen are to be seen, like equestrian statues, at the intersection
+of the more crowded thoroughfares, as Unter den Linden and Friedrich
+Strasse, and with a little care there is seldom need of delay in
+crossing. I heard of one poor cab-driver who was fined and cast into
+prison for injuring a lady who suddenly changed her mind and took a
+new tack while just in front of his horses. Regard for foot-passengers
+seems thus to have an existence in some cases.
+
+Regard for women is not a thing to which German men are trained. A
+gentleman may not carry a small parcel through the street, but his
+delicate wife may take a heavier one to save the disgrace of her
+husband's bearing it. Among the middle classes, those couples who go
+out for a walk with the baby-carriage invariably regard the management
+of it as the wife's privilege, leaving to the father the custody of
+his pipe or cigar alone. If the baby is to be carried in arms, it is
+always the wife, not the husband, who bears the burden. Women in the
+humbler classes wear no bonnets in the street, although sometimes in
+cold weather they tie a little shawl or a handkerchief about the head.
+Their usual habit is, however, to go out in all weathers with the head
+as unprotected as the face, even for long distances. A maid follows
+her mistress to market, with a basket on her arm, often covered with
+an embroidered cloth, in which are placed the purchases of the careful
+housemother.
+
+A huckster is frequently accompanied by a dog, both being harnessed to
+the little cart which holds the wares. Often the man will be free,
+while the woman and the dog side by side drag the cart to which they
+are tied, the woman usually knitting even when the air is cold enough
+to benumb her fingers. Women knit constantly in the streets about
+their other work, whether bowed down under huge bundles of fagots on
+their backs, serving milk at the houses, or doing many other things
+with which we should regard knitting as incompatible.
+
+The best society is like the court, in being exclusive. It is
+difficult for strangers, in Germany as in America, easily to obtain
+desirable acquaintance, except by means of letters of introduction,
+and the friendship which comes with time and natural selection.
+Glimpses of home-life in cultivated circles are accordingly to be
+highly valued.
+
+One delightful visit with supper, to which we were invited, began
+about six o'clock. That we might have more in common, the hostess, who
+herself spoke English with much intelligence, had invited a German
+lady who had resided in Boston to meet us. We were seated on the sofa
+and shown some of the many art treasures in the way of fine engravings
+which the home contained, the fancy-work of our hostess--a German lady
+seems never to be without it--lying neglected as the conversation rose
+in interest. Supper was served between eight and nine o'clock, at a
+round table accommodating the hostess and her three guests. Delicious
+tea, made from a burnished brass teakettle over an alcohol lamp on a
+stand beside the hostess, with white and black bread, five kinds of
+sausage, cold meat, and pickled fish, composed the first course. There
+was a second, composed of little cakes and apples.
+
+Dinner, in our experience, was almost invariably good. First course,
+always soup and bread. Second, unless fish were served, some kind of
+meat, a variety of vegetables, among which green beans, spinach, and
+varieties of cabbage delicately cooked were prominent. This course was
+usually accompanied by cooked or preserved fruit. Third course,
+various puddings and cakes, all good, some delicious; never any pie.
+The luxury of dessert was sometimes omitted. It is not common in
+German families, except those frequented by American guests. Radishes
+and cheese form an extra course at some suppers. In hotels, of course,
+the simple family dinner of three or four courses is replaced by a
+more elaborate feast of many courses.
+
+The anniversaries of the death of friends are remembered by dressing
+in black, burning candles before their portraits, and visiting their
+graves. There is also one day in spring which is celebrated as a kind
+of combination of All Saints Day and Decoration Day, when every one
+visits the cemeteries, leaving flowers and wreaths in memory of the
+loved and lost. Funeral services are held, both at the homes and in
+the churches, and are often accompanied by very impressive and
+majestic music. In at least one of the cemeteries there is a large and
+scientifically arranged crematory. A recent judicial decision,
+however, forbids cremation within the municipal jurisdiction.
+
+Sundays, as is well known, are not observed in Germany as in England
+and Scotland. But in the parts of Berlin which we were accustomed to
+see on that day, including two miles or more between our residence and
+the central part of the city, the general sobriety and orderly
+appearance would compare favorably with that in the better parts of
+many American cities. We were asked on our first Sunday at the
+dinner-table if we would like to have seats secured for us at the
+opera that evening. Operatic performances and concerts are among the
+better entertainments offered on Sunday evenings. The laws are strict,
+however, regarding quiet in the streets and the closing of places of
+business until after Sunday morning service in the churches. In the
+finest residence portions of some American cities we have been
+frequently disturbed by the street-cries of hucksters during divine
+service on Sunday mornings, while the ear-piercing shouts of newspaper
+venders disturb all the peace of the early morning hours. Dime
+museums and other places flaunt their attractions in the faces of the
+crowd who gather at their doors, and many places of business seem to
+be always open. It was not our experience to see or hear anything like
+this in Germany. Even the law of despotic power is better than none at
+all,--often far better than enlightened law not enforced. Policemen in
+the streets of Berlin make short work with the luckless tradesman who
+leaves his blinds or doors open on Sunday before two o'clock P.M. Of
+course restaurants and places of food supply are open. To all outward
+appearance Berlin was a fairly well-ordered city on Sundays. One in
+search of evil, however, could doubtless find it, here as elsewhere.
+
+Sunday afternoon is a favorite time for calls and family visits; and
+in the pleasant weather the genuine love for out-door life, which
+seems dormant in winter, blossoms out luxuriantly. Parents take their
+whole families to the numerous gardens in the suburbs for picnics on
+Sundays and the frequent holidays. Sunday hours at home are spent by
+most German ladies with the inevitable crochet-work or knitting,--even
+the most devout seeing no harm in this, nor in their little Sunday
+evening parties, with games and music.
+
+One day in the year--Good Friday--is observed as scrupulously as was
+ever a Puritan Sunday. The organic Protestant Church of Germany--a
+union of the Lutheran and Reformed churches,--has small affiliation
+with the Church of Rome; but some observances which we have been
+accustomed to associate with so-called Catholicism have lingered with
+Protestantism in Germany. Good Friday was a solemn day in the family
+where we had our home. Bach's music, brought to light after a hundred
+years of deep obscurity by Felix Mendelssohn, and rendered, though at
+first with much opposition from musicians of the old school, in the
+Sing Akademie of Berlin, now lends every year, on the eve of Good
+Friday, its incomparable _Passion-Musik_ to the devotion of the
+occasion. "There are many things I must miss," said a cultivated
+German to me, "but the _Passion-Musik_ on the eve of Good
+Friday,--never! It makes me better. I cannot do without it." We found
+this music, at the time of which we speak, an occasion to be ever
+memorable for its wonderful power and pathos. The next morning we did
+not attend the service in the cathedral, where we wished to go,
+knowing that the crowd would be too great for comfort. On returning to
+our room from another service, a beautiful arrangement of cut flowers
+on the table greeted our senses as we opened the door. It was the
+thoughtful, affectionate, and devout offering of our hostess in
+reverent memory of the day. After dinner we entered the private parlor
+of the family for a friendly call and to express our thanks. No
+suggestion of knitting or fancy-work was to be seen. The hostess and
+her daughters, soberly dressed, were reading devotional books. "Do you
+not go out this afternoon?" I inquired. "No, one cannot go out," was
+the reply, indicating probably both lack of disposition and of places
+open for entertainment. Later, I ventured out for a walk. Only here
+and there could a team be seen, and the throng of pedestrians usually
+on the sidewalks in a bright spring afternoon seemed to have deserted
+the busy streets, in which comparative silence reigned.
+
+"I am glad there is here _one_ sabbath in the year," was our inward
+comment, "even though it falls on a Friday." Easter was a day of
+gladness in the churches, though elaborate adornments of flowers and
+new spring bonnets were not so prominent as in American cities. The
+respectable church communicant, even if he goes to church on no other
+day in the year, usually takes the communion at Easter.
+
+Easter Monday was one great gala-day. All Berlin seemed to be in the
+streets in holiday attire; and, to our eyes, no other day ever showed
+such universal gladness reflected in the faces and demeanor of the
+people. "Prayer Day," answering somewhat to the original New England
+Fast Day, was solemnly observed in May; and the holidays of
+Whitsuntide dress every house and market-stall and milk-cart with
+green boughs, and crowd the railways and the steamers with throngs of
+pleasure-seekers.
+
+The few weeks before Easter is a favorite season for weddings, and
+these are invariably celebrated in church. Even people in moderate
+circumstances make much display at the church ceremony, with or
+without an additional celebration at home. We were invited to one at
+the Garrison Church, which the soldiers attend, and where most of the
+pews on the main floor are held by officers and their families. We
+entered the church fifteen minutes before the hour appointed,--four
+o'clock. An elderly usher in a fine suit, with swallow-tail coat and a
+decoration on his breast, politely gave us liberty to choose our
+seats, as the invitations were not numerous and the church is large. A
+few persons, mostly ladies, were there before us, and had already
+taken the best seats,--those running lengthwise of the church, and
+facing a wide central aisle. We joined them, and while waiting felt
+more at liberty to inspect the church than at the service on a
+previous Sunday. The Grecian interior was undecorated, except that a
+mass of green filled the space to the right and left of the altar,
+beginning on each side with tall oleanders succeeded by laurels and
+other evergreens, growing gradually less in height, until they reached
+the pews in the side aisles. A rich altar-cloth of purple velvet,
+embroidered with gold, fell below the crucifix and the massive candles
+on either side, which are always seen in the Lutheran churches; and in
+the aisle below the chancel stood a square altar, covered with another
+spread of purple velvet, heavy with gold fringe and embroidery. Two
+chairs were side by side just in front of the high altar, and facing
+it. Six chairs facing the audience were on the platform on each side
+of the altar, directly in front of the mass of green I have described.
+Below the steps to the chancel about twenty chairs were placed on each
+side of the central aisle, and facing the altar. In each chair was a
+printed slip containing a hymn to be sung after the ceremony. About
+four o'clock a maid came in with the little granddaughter who on
+Christmas eve had spoken the poem at the lighting of the family
+Christmas-tree. When they were seated, the handsome little face, with
+its white bonnet and cloak, was seen in a side pew very near the
+altar. It seemed so like a dream,--the announcement of the engagement
+of "the little Fräulein" at that Christmas party; and now the time has
+come when the bride is to belong to her mother and her home no more!
+
+Ladies had long ceased looking impatiently at their watches, and were
+perhaps busy with their thoughts, as I was, when from the "mittel"
+door Court-preacher Frommel entered, his long white hair thrown back,
+and crossed through the transverse aisle to the robing-room opposite.
+Soon a signal given by an usher to the organist was the prelude to
+solemn music, which filled the church; and a stout clerical
+assistant, with a book under his arm, appeared at the rear door. Then
+Pastor Frommel, in his black robe and simple white muslin bands, took
+his place before the high altar and bowed in prayer, the two immense
+candles in tall candlesticks on either side the altar, now lighted,
+throwing their radiance on his silver hair. Meantime the bridal
+procession slowly moved down the side aisle toward the middle of the
+church, turned at the transverse aisle, crossed to the centre, turned
+again, now toward the altar, passing to it up the central aisle. The
+clerical personage with the service-book under his arm passed first.
+Then came the bride on the arm of the groom. There were a few
+orange-buds hidden here and there in the fluffy mass of her front
+hair; a veil of tulle was fastened behind them in a gathered coronet,
+and fell down over the folds of her white silk dress, whose train
+swept along the aisle to the length of a yard and a half. I saw no
+ornaments, save a wreath below the high, full, white ruche at the
+throat, perhaps of geranium leaves, and a full bouquet of pink
+rosebuds in the right hand. From my glance at the train of the bridal
+dress, I looked up to see six bridesmaids coming after, each on the
+arm of a groomsman. The first bridesmaid was a lovely sister of the
+bride, in a dress of cream-white silk without train, pink flowers in
+her hair, and carrying a large bouquet of full-blown cream and crimson
+roses. The second bridesmaid wore a dress of silk,--not ecru and not
+palest olive, but a shade between the two,--with a perfectly fitting
+corsage, likewise _décolleté_, and for ornaments a necklace of large
+pearls, a bouquet, and flowers in her hair. The first groomsman was in
+civilian's dress; but the second was in all the glory of full
+regimentals, with scarlet trimmings and showy buttons. The third
+bridesmaid wore pink silk, with a bouquet at the centre of the
+heart-shaped corsage; but unlike the others, she had no flowers in her
+hair. Of the following bridesmaids, one wore pink silk of a paler
+shade, one was in lemon-color, and the last in palest mauve, with
+trimmings of garnet velvet. The bridesmaids filed to the right, and
+the groomsmen to the left, as they reached the altar, before which
+Pastor Frommel now stood. As the bride and groom approached, they
+remained a moment standing with bowed heads in silent prayer, as the
+custom is on entering a German church, and then took the two chairs
+which had been placed for them, facing the minister. I had been struck
+by the beauty of the widowed mother, as she followed the bridesmaids,
+leaning on the arm of her brother,--a fine-looking, dignified officer
+from Potsdam, in full uniform, with broad silver epaulettes. The black
+hair of the mother--dressed high and gracefully on the crown of her
+uncovered head, set off by a fine white marguerite and a yellow
+one--and her dark eyes and complexion were in strong contrast to the
+fair hair and light German complexion of the younger ladies. She was
+in a dress of garnet silk, fitting perfectly her tall and graceful
+form. The bridesmaids took the six chairs on the right of the altar,
+facing the audience and before the mass of greenery, which made an
+effective background for so much youth, beauty, and elegance; and the
+groomsmen took the corresponding chairs on the left. The mother and
+uncle parted at the steps below the altar, she taking the first chair
+on the right, and he on the left, with the central aisle between them.
+Next came two elderly ladies, in dark silk with long trains, with
+uncovered and ornamented hair, and white shoulder-shawls of silk or
+wool, each with a gentleman; and they were seated to the right and
+left respectively. The bride's eldest married sister came next, in a
+splendid robe of blue satin, with a long train, looking very young and
+_distingué_. She and her husband filed to the right and left, as the
+others had done. The second married sister of the bride followed, in a
+similar dress of pink satin; and her very handsome husband, in his
+full military suit, was a decided addition to the courtly-looking
+assemblage. These five ladies filled the front row of chairs on one
+side, as did the gentlemen accompanying them on the other side. Eight
+other ladies, all in full dress,--one wearing an ermine
+cape,--followed, each with a gentleman; and these were seated in the
+second row.
+
+When for a few brief moments I first caught sight of all this
+elegance, I felt as though I were in a dream; then came a rush of
+emotion, because I loved the fair young bride, and was touched at the
+thought of the solemn place in which she stood,--forsaking home and
+friends and native land to go to what seems to these home-dwelling
+Germans a far, strange country, all for the sake of a young man whom a
+year ago she had never seen. I was as sorry for the mother, too, as I
+could be for one so handsome and so dignified. How fast one feels and
+thinks in such a time! Before the hush which followed the procession
+and the temporary change while all were finding their appropriate
+seats, the feeling of sympathy had given place to one of stimulated
+imagination, and this dim old soldiers' church, with the majestic
+music filling all its spaces, seemed merely the setting for some scene
+at a royal court in the olden time, where beauty and brilliance and
+grandeur were a matter of course.
+
+The music ceased, all present rose, while Pastor Frommel read a brief
+service from the book, and said "Amen." Then we sat down again, and
+the pastor preached the wedding sermon, which we were told is a matter
+of course at a German marriage. The sermon over, the bride and groom
+stood up before him, and he looked down with a fatherly glance upon
+the bride whom he took into his own house to prepare for confirmation
+only a few short years ago, and whom he is now to send with his
+marriage benediction across the sea. In a sweet, calm voice he
+addressed them; then the bride hands her bouquet to her sister
+bridesmaid sitting near, and removes her own glove; the groom takes
+from his pocket a ring, and gives it to the minister, who places it on
+the bride's finger, speaking a few solemn sentences, of which only the
+last reaches my ears: "What God hath joined together, let not man put
+asunder." For the first time in the service, the bride and groom kneel
+before him who bends over them; then follows a prayer, and it is
+finished. They rise, and are seated an instant; then rise again as the
+pastor gives his hand in congratulation to the groom; and when he
+places his hand with a few words in that of the bride, she bends low
+over it and kisses it in a pathetic farewell. The pastor goes first.
+The bride and groom bow in silent devotion before the altar until the
+time seems a little long, then turn and come down the aisle, followed
+by their retinue as they went in, but twain no more. The mother wiped
+away a tear quietly once or twice during the service, the unmarried
+sister bridesmaid looked as sweet and calm as always she does at home,
+but the bride, silently taking farewell of friends and native land,
+was deeply moved. No one had any voice for the printed hymn, and the
+organ alone supplied its music. The newly married couple went in the
+first carriage which rolled homewards, the others followed without
+observing precedence, and a small and quiet home reception closed the
+day.
+
+In a family where we found a home we were once asked, with other
+temporary residents, to attend a small evening gathering. At the usual
+hour of half-past eight we were led out to supper by the hostess. The
+table was very handsome with its fine linen and an elaborately
+embroidered lunch cloth extending through the whole length of a board
+at which fourteen were seated. I counted ten tall wine bottles, and at
+every plate except two, wine-glasses were standing. Several of the
+European ladies drank off three or four glasses as they might have
+done so much water. "You are temperance?" said a young lady from
+Stockholm at my left, in her broken English. I said, Yes; and on
+inquiry found she knew something of the great temperance movement in
+her own country, of which she told me over her wine. She said she
+thought a glass would do me good. I said, "No, it would flush my face
+and do me harm;" to which, without any intention of discourtesy, she
+replied simply, "I do not believe it." Five plates of various sizes
+were piled before each individual. The smallest was of glass, for
+preserved fruit and sweet pickles, four kinds of which were passed,
+all to be deposited, if one partook of all, on the same plate. The
+other plates and the whole service were of beautiful old Berlin china,
+white, with a line of dark blue and another of gilt around the edge of
+each piece, and the monogram of the grandmother to whom it originally
+belonged in the centre of each piece in blue letters. The first course
+was excellent chicken broth, served to each guest in a china cup, with
+a roll. The second course was cold roast beef and hot potatoes, served
+in three different ways, with rolls and plenty of wine. The third
+course was offered to me first by a handsome serving-maid lately from
+the country, with a clear face, bright dark eyes, dark hair, and rosy
+cheeks. Admiring her, I cast only a brief and doubtful glance on the
+large plate she bore, at one side of which were two lifelike sheep
+three or four inches high, with little red ribbons around their necks
+and standing in the midst of greenery. "This is confectionery," I
+thought, "and these are sugar sheep for ornament." Disposed on other
+parts of the plate were sundry rounds and triangles which looked
+peculiar; but my custom was, at German tables, "to prove all things"
+and "hold fast that which is good." So I decided on a creamy-looking
+segment, covered with silver-paper, and showing at the sides a
+half-inch thickness of what I hoped was custard-cake. The plate was
+next passed to a lady at my right, who cut a little piece off a white
+substance; and I thought, "She has ice-cream." Before I had touched my
+portion, a suspicious odor diverted my attention from the
+conversation. I found that the course was cheese and radishes, that my
+neighbor had "Dutch cheese," that the sheep were the butter and I had
+none for my roll, and that I had possessed myself of perhaps the whole
+of one variety of European cheese in tin-foil, the peculiar aroma of
+which was anything but agreeable to my cheese-hating sense. I begged a
+German Fräulein who sat near and who was intensely enjoying the
+situation to relieve me, when she kindly took about one third of my
+delicacy, leaving the rest in solitary state until the end of that
+course. Fortunately, the non-winedrinkers were offered a cup of tea
+just here, and I ate my roll with it in thankfulness. My American
+friend laughingly made a remark to her German neighbor,--a tall and
+dignified lady, but very vivacious. She turned her head, saying in
+hesitating English, "Speak on this side; I am _dumb_ in that ear."
+Meanwhile the conversation, not as at American tables a low hum, but
+rather the rattle of artillery, fires away, across the table, along
+its whole length, anywhere and everywhere, much sounding, little
+meaning, amid infinite ado of demonstration and gesticulation. The
+next course was the nearest approach to pie I saw at any German
+table,--_apfeltochter_,--a browned and frosted crust, nearly eighteen
+inches in diameter, between the parts of which was cooked and
+sweetened apple.
+
+I noted the different nationalities at the table,--the mother and her
+daughters, Germans of the Germans; a buxom young girl from the
+country, a fine singer; the tall German, and the young Swedish lady of
+whom I have spoken; another Swedish lady from Gothenburg, tall, very
+dignified, with gray eyes and dark hair, an exquisite singer. Then
+there was Herr G----, also from Sweden, and Fräulein von K----, a
+young Polish lady, with striking black eyes and hair and a laughing
+face. Other guests were two Norwegian gentlemen. One of them, tall,
+dark, and with the dress and bearing of a gentleman, said to my
+American friend, "Yes, I speak English _very well_" which we found to
+be the case. As I had mentally completed this summary, my friend said
+to me in a low "aside," "The young lady at your left is a
+free-thinker, the Polish lady is a Roman Catholic, Herr G----is a Jew;
+the rest Lutherans, except you and me." And one of us at home was of
+"Andover," and the other "straight Orthodox"!
+
+Later, we adjourned to the drawing-room, spacious and handsome after
+the German fashion. I asked one of the daughters of the house, who I
+knew had spent some years in Russia, if the portrait of a middle-aged
+gentleman hanging near me, much decorated and with a gilded crown at
+the top of the frame, were not that of the late Czar (Alexander II.),
+when she replied, "It is our Emperor!" And I had seen his Majesty at
+least half a dozen times! But he was a much older man now. One of the
+Norwegian gentlemen sat down at the piano and played portions of a
+recent opera, and a game of questions and answers followed. Oranges
+and little cakes were served before the company broke up at the early
+hour of half-past eleven.
+
+Concerts and even the opera and theatre begin early in Germany. Doors
+are open usually about half-past five, and the performance seldom
+begins later than six or seven. This interferes with the time of the
+usual evening meal, so that refreshments at these places are always in
+order. One of the most characteristic evenings maybe spent at the
+Philharmonie, where the best music is given at popular prices several
+times each week. Tickets seldom cost more than fifteen or eighteen
+cents, and may be bought by the package for much less. This is a
+favorite place with the music-loving Germans, and for many Americans
+as well. Nearly all the German ladies take their knitting or
+fancy-work. The large and fine hall is filled on these occasions with
+chairs clustered around small tables accommodating from two to six.
+Here families and friends gather, chat in the intervals, and listen to
+the music, quietly sipping their beer or chocolate, and supper is
+served in the intermission to those who order it. Smoking is
+forbidden, but seldom is the hour after supper free from fumes of
+smokers who quietly venture to light their cigars unrebuked unless the
+room gets _too_ blue. Many entire families seem to make nightly
+rendezvous at these concerts, enjoying the music as only Germans do,
+and setting many a pretty picture in the minds of strangers. The
+concerts are over by nine or ten o'clock, but the performances at
+theatre and opera are frequently not concluded before half-past ten or
+eleven, and an after-supper at a _café_ or at home is a consequent
+necessity. In one aspect of behavior at concerts, American audiences
+may well imitate our German friends. The beginning of every piece of
+music is the signal for instantaneous cessation from conversation. I
+do not remember ever having been annoyed during the performance of
+music, either in public or private, while in Germany, by the talking
+of any except Americans or other foreigners. To the music-loving
+Germans this is among the greatest of social sins.
+
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+EDUCATION.
+
+
+The buildings of the Berlin University are somewhat scattered, but the
+edifice known by this name is situated opposite the Imperial Palace,
+in the finest part of the city. The building was once the palace of
+Prince Henry, brother of Frederick the Great. It is built around three
+sides of a court open southward to the street, guarded by a high
+ornamental iron fence. Before it are the sitting statues of the
+brothers Humboldt, in fine white marble, on high pedestals. That of
+Alexander von Humboldt, in particular, inspired me with profound
+admiration often as I passed it. Few statues are more fortunate in
+subject, in execution, or in position. The former reception-room of
+the palace is now the great _aula_ of the University, and the old
+ball-room is transformed into a Museum. The Cabinet of Minerals and
+the Collections of the Zoölogical Museum are each among the most
+valuable of their kind in existence. The fine park to the north of the
+University is open to the public, and is best seen from the rear
+entrance in Dorotheen Strasse. Its quiet shades seem quite the ideal
+of an academic grove, if that can be in the middle of a great city.
+The Astronomical Observatory is upwards of half a mile south, in a
+park at the end of Charlotten Strasse; and the Medical Colleges are
+mostly to the northwest, near the great hospital.
+
+This University, with its hundreds of professors, and nearly six
+thousand students annually in attendance, is now one of the foremost
+in Europe. Professors who, like Virchow, Helmholtz, and Mommsen, have
+a world-wide reputation, draw many to their classes; but there are
+other equally learned specialists with a more circumscribed reputation
+and influence. Hundreds of American students tarry each year for a
+longer or shorter term of study in Berlin, and it is rapidly gaining
+upon Leipsic as a centre for musical study also. No woman is allowed
+to matriculate in the University at present, although there are not
+wanting German women who, in advance of general public sentiment,
+affirm that this ought not so to be.
+
+The Academy of Arts and the Academy of Science are housed in the
+conspicuous building opposite the palace of Emperor William I. and
+adjoining the University. The Science Academy is organized in four
+sections, physical, mathematical, philosophical, and historical, and
+has valuable endowments and scholarships. The Academy of Arts has one
+section devoted to higher instruction in painting, engraving, and
+sculpture, and one to music, eminent specialists in each branch
+composing the Board of Direction. The imposing building of the
+Institute of Technology, near the extremity of the Thiergarten, has a
+fine Technological Museum, and accommodation for two thousand
+students. Its organization grew out of the union of two previously
+existing institutions for the promotion of architecture and trade. It
+has now five sections, in which about one thousand students pursue the
+study of architecture, civil engineering, machinery, ship-building,
+mining, and chemistry.
+
+Instruction in the science of war is given in all its departments, as
+might be expected. The War Office of the Government is in the
+Leipziger Strasse, adjoining the Reichstag, with one of the finest of
+ancient parks behind it, covering a space equal to several squares in
+the heart of the city. This park is elaborate and finely kept, but it
+is surrounded by high walls, within which the public is rarely
+admitted. Even its existence is unsuspected by most visitors. The
+large and elegant building of the War Academy in the Dorotheen Strasse
+has a war library of eight hundred thousand volumes and magnificent
+accessories. Its object is to educate army officers. There are three
+courses of study, promotion from which to the General Staff is made by
+examinations. The business of the General Staff is, in war, to
+regulate the movements of the army and to attend to the correct
+registration of material for war history. In peace, the time of the
+officers who compose it is devoted to a profound post-graduate study
+of the science and the art of warfare.
+
+An important accessory to the privileges of the University is the
+Royal Library, opposite the main building and adjacent to the palace
+of Emperor William I. in the Opera Platz. It is possible, though not
+common, for ladies to be allowed the privileges of this library,
+consisting of over a million volumes and thousands of valuable and
+curious manuscripts. A card of introduction to the Director from an
+influential source gave me the great pleasure of the use both of the
+library and the fine reading-rooms. Considerable time was consumed in
+the preliminaries, and there was red tape to be untied, but in general
+no unnecessary obstacles were thrown in the way even of a woman. On my
+first visit, before the requisite permission to use the library had
+been obtained, I was treated as a visitor, and most politely shown the
+treasures of the institution by intelligent officials. A young man who
+spoke excellent English was given me as a guide by the distinguished
+Director-in-Chief. Classification of the books is carried to great
+minuteness, and it is but the work of a moment, to one familiar with
+its principles, to turn to any book of the million. The apartments are
+plain and crowded, although some of the rooms of the adjoining palace
+had recently been turned into the library, which is fast outgrowing
+its accommodations. The young librarian who acted as our guide was
+eager for information concerning American libraries, asking
+particularly about the size and classification of the Boston Public
+Library. It was a pleasure to respond to one so intelligent and
+interested, and I felt sure he would make good use of every scrap of
+trustworthy information. He showed us his books with pride, and gave
+many interesting particulars. He also displayed to us some of the
+treasures kept in glass cases and usually covered from the light. Here
+were Luther's manuscript translation of the Bible, Gutenberg's Bible,
+the first book printed on movable types, the ancient Codex of the time
+of Charlemagne, miniatures, illuminated missals, and other things of
+much interest. As my dinner-hour approached I begged off for that day
+from the cordially offered inspection of the celebrated Hamilton
+manuscripts. It is said that the highest-priced book ever sold was the
+vellum missal presented to King Henry VIII. by Pope Leo X., which
+brought $50,000. The missal was accompanied by a document conferring
+on the King the title of "Defender of the Faith." It is now in this
+collection, having been given by King Charles II. to an ancestor of
+the Duke of Hamilton, whose manuscripts were purchased by the German
+Government in 1882.
+
+The tables of the reading-rooms for periodicals are well filled with
+magazines in all languages, and equal politeness is shown by
+officials. The apartments are in the second story, reached by a
+stairway ascending from a paved court off the Behren Strasse, in the
+rear of the Imperial Palace. No lovely spring-time memories are to us
+more vivid and attractive than those of the library reading-room, in
+the second story of the Library building, looking on the Opera Platz.
+Here, among many students of all nationalities from the University, I
+was wont to spend long delicious afternoons at a table of my own
+choosing, to which attentive officials brought the books of my
+selection, and where I was free to turn to books of reference on the
+shelves beside me. The room would accommodate perhaps two hundred,
+similarly employed. Among those I frequently met there were a German
+lady and an American gentleman whom I was so happy as to number among
+my friends. Intercourse between our tables was by smiles and nods,
+seldom crystallizing into words, but these were not wanted. Four
+centuries looked down upon us in portraits from the walls, and forty
+centuries were ours in the books below them. As the season advanced,
+the room was not full, and the long French windows stood open. Before
+them was a balcony facing the Platz, with its fountains, its
+shrubbery, and its flowers. The breath of spring and early summer was
+perfumed by mignonette and English violets, as it floated away from
+the murmur and the brightness of the brilliant scenes beyond up
+through every alcove of this quiet scholar's retreat.
+
+Books in English, as in other languages, are many and finely selected,
+though some departments are incomplete. A month's preparation here for
+a trip to Russia and the far North was one of unalloyed pleasure; and
+many volumes from the library were, under the rules, kindly permitted
+to reach and remain on the study-table of my own room while I needed
+them. The department of Scandinavian travel was, however, much more
+scantily represented than Russia. Long shall I have reason to remember
+with gratitude the generous "open sesame" and the rich privileges of
+this library, which, more than most things that enjoy the epithet,
+truly deserves the name Royal.
+
+As no woman can enter the Berlin University as a student, neither is
+it practicable for a lady, either as student or visitor, to find
+access to the _Gymnasia_, which, in the German sense of this term, are
+somewhat in the line of our American colleges. My windows looked into
+those of a fine new building across the street, devoted to the
+instruction of German youth. In through its doors there filed, every
+week-day morning, long lines of German boys and young men for the
+various grades of instruction; and a natural desire arose in the mind
+of an old teacher to "visit the school." But on application to an
+influential friend long resident in Germany, for a note of
+introduction to the Director of the _Gymnasium_, his hands were lifted
+in unaffected astonishment at the nature of the request, "A woman in a
+boys' school! oh, never! Ask me any other favor but that! Oh, it is
+_impossible_!" A German lady was more hopeful. She was intimate with
+the wife of the Director, and thought she could gain for me the
+coveted permission. But weeks lengthened into months, and still the
+right to enter even the enclosure sacred to the education of German
+boys was not obtained. So I studied the educational system at first on
+paper, and found many facts of interest. Attendance at the common
+schools is compulsory, all children of both sexes being required to
+attend, in separate buildings, from the ages of five to fourteen.
+Beyond this, the High School offers a training for practical life and
+business, and the _Gymnasium_ a classical and scientific training
+leading to the special studies of the University. The course of study
+in the _Gymnasia_ is similar to those of our colleges, some of the
+studies of the latter, however, being relegated to the University. A
+boy at nine years of age enters the _Gymnasium_ for a course of nine
+years, in which Latin and Greek receive the chief emphasis. The same
+great division of opinion as to the comparative merits of linguistic
+and scientific training which exists in the rest of the world,
+agitates the German mind. The _Gymnasium_ with its classical training
+is the child of the present century, and its growth all along has been
+disputed by those who claim greater advantages from a curriculum which
+lays chief stress on science, omitting the Greek and half the Latin,
+for a part of which modern languages are substituted. This has given
+rise to what are called the Real Schools, corresponding to our
+Scientific Schools. These receive their inspiration from the people
+rather than the learned classes, and are regarded as still on trial.
+Meantime, until quite recently, the graduates of the _Gymnasia_ have
+had a monopoly of competition for positions as teachers and
+opportunity to practise the learned professions. A recent change
+allows graduates of the Real Schools to compete for teacherships. The
+graduates of _Gymnasia_ only are allowed to enter the professions of
+Medicine and Law. The Prussian _Gymnasia_ are about two hundred and
+fifty in number, and the Real Schools somewhat over one hundred. In
+point of military service, these schools are all on an equal footing,
+a pupil who completes a course of six years in either being obliged to
+serve but one year with the colors. It is said that a large number of
+those who graduate in these schools do so for the sake of thus
+shortening their term of military service. I was present at an evening
+entertainment offered by the older students of one _Gymnasium_ to the
+friends of the school. It was a rendering, in Greek, of the Antigone
+of Sophocles, with considerable adjuncts of scenery, costume, and
+Greek chorus. A brief outline of the play in German was distributed to
+the audience. For the rest, a knowledge of Greek was the only key to
+what was said by experts to be well done.
+
+But if this one personal glimpse of the scholarship of the higher
+schools for boys was all that could be obtained, I was more fortunate
+in finding access to the schools for girls. Not, however, without
+painstaking. It is by no means a matter of course for any visitor to
+knock at the door of a school-room for a call upon the school. The
+coming of visitors is uniformly discouraged; the teachers saying that
+the pupils are not used to it, and that their attention is thereby
+diverted from their studies. A lady of my acquaintance, resident for
+some years in Berlin, asked permission to visit the school which her
+little daughter attended, and was refused. A professional educator
+from abroad, especially a gentleman, if properly introduced, will find
+little difficulty in obtaining access to the schools; but a lady, who
+wishes to go unofficially, will need persistence and courage before
+she effects her object.
+
+A friendly acquaintance with two German teachers smoothed the way,
+perhaps opened it, to a privilege I had hitherto sought in vain. At
+supper one evening I made an engagement to meet one of these ladies in
+the school to which she belonged, early the next morning. In the short
+Berlin days of mid-winter one must rise by candle-light to be in time
+for even the second hour of school, if living a half-hour distant. In
+one of the largest hotels of Berlin I saw, the week before Christmas,
+a little fellow, scarcely tall enough for seven years, departing for
+school in the morning, with his knapsack on his back, an hour before
+there would be daylight enough for him to study by. As he sturdily
+went forth from the elegant rooms and brilliantly lighted corridors
+into the cold gray dawn and the snowy streets towards the distant
+school, I said, "There is the way to train Spartans!" The schools
+begin at eight o'clock for girls, at seven for boys, though many go at
+later hours. Those who are not able to pay for instruction attend the
+"common schools," where tuition is free; but those who can must pay at
+the rate of from about five to seven dollars per quarter, in the
+schools denominated "public."
+
+The school to which I went occupies a handsome modern brick edifice,
+and accommodates eight hundred girls. It was ten o'clock, when the
+recess which follows the stroke of each hour (ten minutes) is doubled,
+in order to give time for the "second breakfast"--bread and butter
+taken in basket or bag--by both teachers and pupils, to supplement
+the rolls and coffee partaken of by candle-light in winter, which form
+the first breakfast. The teacher whom I knew was waiting for me in the
+corridor, where the busy hum of hundreds of young voices filled the
+air. Handsome and substantial stone staircases fill the central
+portion of the edifice, lighted by a skylight, by windows where a
+transverse corridor reaches to the street, and by ground glass in the
+double doors leading to some of the class-rooms. It was a dark
+morning, and so the corridors were dim enough. Most of the pupils are
+in school from eight to one o'clock. Some of the younger ones come at
+nine, or even ten, and go home at twelve. I was told that instruction
+as to what to do in case of fire in the building is carefully given,
+but saw no fire-escapes, except the stairways. There was provision for
+ventilation in the class-rooms,--a register near the floor admitting
+pure warm air, and another near the ceiling giving exit to impure air.
+But this mode was quite insufficient to secure good air in most of the
+rooms. I was conducted to the Director of the school, without whose
+permission I could not enter. He was standing in the corridor on the
+third floor, surrounded by several girls, with whom he was talking in
+the manner of a _paterfamilias_,--an aged man, with a shrewd but
+kindly face. I was introduced, and the object of my visit stated.
+Bowing and leading the way to his office, he made a slight demurrer as
+to the profit I should reap, but freely accorded the permission, after
+making an entry, apparently from my visiting-card, in his register. My
+friend again took me in charge, and conducted me to another room,
+where I was introduced to the "first instructress," and to five or six
+other lady teachers, all of whom sat, in wooden chairs, around a plain
+wooden table, partaking of their luncheon. Two or three good
+photographs--one of the Roman forum--were in frames on the walls; a
+large mirror and a set of lock-boxes gave the teachers toilet
+accommodations; while baskets of knitting and other belongings bespoke
+this as the retiring-room of the lady teachers. The chief of these, a
+kind-faced matronly woman, spoke English imperfectly; but several of
+the younger ones spoke it very well, and one or two were of charming
+manners and appearance.
+
+From a schedule hanging on the wall, I was shown the names and number
+of recitations for the day. "What would I like to see? How long can I
+remain? Will I come again to-morrow?" If the permission to visit a
+school be often difficult to gain, once received, it covers every
+recitation, and as many hours or days as the visitor chooses to devote
+to it. I was first conducted to a recitation in arithmetic. The room
+contained accommodations for fifty pupils, and the seats were filled
+by girls about thirteen or fourteen years of age. Wooden desks and
+seats (the outer row for three pupils each, the central for four
+each), a slightly raised platform for the teacher, with a plain desk
+and two chairs, several cases of butterflies and beetles, on the walls
+a map or two, a small blackboard behind the teacher's desk, in
+grooves, so that it may be elevated or lowered at pleasure, make up
+the furniture of the room. The light, as in every room I visited, was
+from one side, to the left of the pupils. The teacher--a man with gray
+hair and beard, but young enough as to vivacity and enthusiasm, and a
+gentleman in manners--bowed me to the chair he offered, and with a
+wave of the hand bade the children, who had risen on our entrance, be
+seated. The lesson was wholly oral and mental. Addition, subtraction,
+and multiplication were carried on by means of numbers, given out with
+so much vivacity and judgment that every eye was fastened on the
+teacher and every mind alert. Most of the right hands were raised for
+answer to every question, with the index finger extended; and the
+pupil selected was chosen now here, now there, to give it audibly.
+Rank was observed from left to right, the lower changing places with
+the higher whenever a failure above and a correct answer below paved
+the way. Large numbers were often used; for example, adding or
+subtracting by sixties, and multiplying far beyond twelve times
+twelve,--all apparently with equal facility. The second half of the
+hour was devoted to a visit to a class of younger girls. Another
+arithmetic class, taught by a younger gentleman; the pupils were in
+the eighth class, or second year at school,--age about seven. The room
+accommodated the same number, and was lighted and furnished in a
+similar way. Here figures were written on the blackboard by the
+teacher. The early part of the lesson had evidently been in addition;
+now it was subtraction, which was carefully explained by the pupils,
+and the hour closed by a few mental exercises in concert. In the ten
+minutes' recess which followed, I again chatted with the teachers in
+their private room. Thirty teachers are employed to teach these eight
+hundred girls,--twenty gentlemen and ten ladies. I said that in
+America the lady teachers largely outnumbered the gentlemen. The lady
+with whom I was conversing replied that the upper classes in girls'
+schools were all taught by gentlemen, as the ladies were not prepared
+to pass the required examinations for these positions. "The gentlemen
+have a course in the _Gymnasium_ about equal to that in your
+colleges," she said, "and then pursue a course in the University, in
+order to fit themselves for teachers." "The expense of this is too
+much for ladies?" I inquired. "Yes; and they have not the opportunity.
+They are not admitted to the University of Berlin, and then--women
+have not the strength for such hard studies"! "How many recitations do
+you hear?" I asked. "The lady teachers, twenty-two per week; the
+gentlemen, twenty-four." "The salaries of the gentlemen are higher?"
+"Oh yes, much higher. They have families to support; and then, the
+ladies are unsteady,--they often marry."
+
+I was now conducted to the upper division of the first class; girls in
+the last of the nine years' course of study,--ages about fourteen to
+sixteen. This was the only class reciting in English, which within a
+few years has been made a part of the required course, as well as
+French. They were reading in little paper-covered books, in German
+text, the _Geisterseher_ of Schiller, and translating the same into
+English. The teacher was an English gentleman. He wrote occasionally a
+word on the blackboard, when he wished to explain or impress upon the
+memory a term or a synonym,--as, for instance, "temporarily," and the
+words "soften," "mitigate," "assuage,"--and corrected such mistakes in
+translation as "guess to" for "guess at," and "declaration" for
+"explanation."
+
+The second division of this first class was in German history. Several
+of the pupils had historical atlases open before them, which covered
+the history of the world from the most ancient times to the present,
+prepared with that excellence which has made German maps famous. The
+compendium used for a class-book was a brief record of dates and
+events in Roman type, which is gradually but surely superseding the
+old German letters. The teacher talked of the quarrel between popes
+and emperors in the Middle Ages, and especially of the wars of the
+Investitures. Passing through the corridor after this recitation, I
+inquired the use of a library there, consisting of several hundred
+volumes, and was told it was for the use of the teachers; and that
+there was also one for the use of the pupils, from which they might
+draw books to read at home,--"some amusing and some instructive."
+
+As "Religion" is marked in the schedule of instruction, and in the
+weekly, monthly, and quarterly reports sent to the parents, I asked to
+see the text-book, and was shown two or three. That for the younger
+pupils was simple, after the manner of our "Bible Stories," of the
+Creation, "Joseph and his Brethren," etc. That for the upper classes
+consisted of several catechisms bound in one, including "Luther's,"
+and supplemented by a number of Psalms, as the 1st, 15th, 23d, 130th,
+to be committed to memory.
+
+I asked if sewing and knitting were taught, and was answered in the
+affirmative. "Is there a teacher for sewing only?" I asked. "No;
+formerly there was, but now the teaching of sewing and knitting is
+distributed among all the lady teachers. The teachers have more
+influence with the pupils in this way." A wise remark; as only a
+sewing-teacher of exceptional force and ability can have an influence
+with the pupils to be compared with that of those who teach them
+literature. Embroidery is taught, but only "useful embroidery," as the
+beautiful initial-work on all bed and table linen in Germany is
+called. Some of that shown me in the sewing-room I now visited was
+exquisite, but was outdone, if possible, by the darning. Over a small
+cushion, encased in white cotton cloth, a coarse fabric of stiff
+threads is pinned, after a square has been cut out from it. This hole
+the pupil is to replace by darning, composed of white and colored
+threads. In this instance blue and white threads were woven about the
+pin-heads inserted at some distance outside the edges of the hole, one
+for each thread. The darning replaces the fabric, not only with
+neatness and strength, but in ornamental patterns. Squares, plaids,
+herringbone and lozenge patterns were done by this process in such a
+manner as to be very handsome.
+
+We now descended to the ground floor, where was a large gymnasium,
+fitted up simply, but with a variety of apparatus. A teacher is
+employed for gymnastics only, but for the reason that until recently
+the other teachers have not had opportunity to prepare for the
+examinations, so strict in Germany on every branch. The children here
+were among the youngest in the school, and were well taught by a lady,
+but with nothing in the method worthy of special note. The last
+half-hour, I listened to a recitation in geography. Girls of ten to
+twelve were numbering and naming the bridges of Berlin, as I entered,
+and the recitation continued for some time on the topography and
+boundaries of their own city. A few general questions were given on
+Germany and its boundaries, and the passes of the Alps, especially the
+Simplon; and the First Napoleon came in for a little discussion. The
+whole method and result in this class were admirable.
+
+The teachers seemed to expect I would come again on the morrow, as I
+had not visited all the classes; and my thanks for the hospitality and
+full opportunity of inspection which I had so much enjoyed, were
+mingled with the apology I felt was needed, that my engagements would
+not permit another visit to the school.
+
+I next sought and obtained an introduction to a Girls' High School.
+This was under the patronage of the Empress Augusta, and was said, in
+furnishing and equipment, to be the best in the city. The building is
+a good one, and the furniture more nearly approaching to that of the
+best schools in American cities. We went into two or three classes,
+but were not particularly impressed, favorably or unfavorably, with
+the methods of instruction. Not so in the gymnastic rooms, where we
+went to view the exercises of the Normal class, soon to be graduated.
+No courtesy was shown us by the master in charge, but we were
+tolerantly allowed to take seats. Here were young women about eighteen
+years of age, going through some of the more active exercises, in a
+large and well-fitted room, without a breath of outer air, in sleeves
+so close that their arms were partly raised with difficulty; so
+tightly laced about the waist that the blood rushed to their faces
+whenever they attempted the running exercise sometimes required, and
+with long skirts and the highest of French heels! And yet this is a
+country in which a woman is not considered capable of instructing the
+higher classes in gymnastics!
+
+I now essayed to visit a representative girls' school carried on by
+private enterprise. The one to which I obtained introduction--and this
+was always a particular matter, the time of the visit being arranged
+some days previous by correspondence--was under the patronage of the
+then Crown Princess, Victoria, whose portrait hung in a conspicuous
+place in the elegantly furnished drawing-room into which I was first
+shown. Soon the principal appeared,--a lady, who from a small
+beginning about fifteen years before had brought the enterprise to its
+present successful stage, with several hundred pupils in annual
+attendance. There were a number of governesses, and about thirty
+pupils resident in the family, the remainder being day-pupils. When
+asked what I would like to see, as this was a private school, and I
+knew nothing of its methods, I replied that I would leave the
+particulars of my visit to the lady in charge. She still hesitated,
+when I suggested that I should feel interested to visit a class in
+mathematics. The lady lifted her hands in astonishment. "Mathematics!
+for girls? Never! We aim to fit girls to become good wives and
+mothers,--not to teach them mathematics!" "Do you have no classes in
+arithmetic?" I asked. "Yes, some arithmetic; but higher mathematics
+would only be hostile to their sphere,--it is not necessary." "Not
+necessary, possibly," I replied; "but in America we do not think
+higher study hostile to the preparation of girls for their duties as
+wives and mothers." "But it is," she replied. "When girls get their
+minds preoccupied with such things, it interferes with the true
+preparation for their life." As I had come to learn this lady's ideas
+of education for girls, not to vindicate mine, I turned the discussion
+into an inquiry as to the ideal of culture she set before her pupils.
+"Girls attempt too many things," was the reply. "They come here, some
+from England and other places, anxious to learn music and languages
+and what not. I tell them it is impossible to do so many things well.
+If they wish to learn music, this is not the place for them. They may
+practise a little,--an hour or two a day, if they wish,--but it is
+folly to attempt the study of music with other things. We aim to give
+a thorough training in language and literature; not a smattering, but
+such an acquaintance as will enable them to understand the people
+whose tongue they study,--to look at life through their eyes, and to
+be thoroughly familiar with the masterpieces of their literature. Of
+course, German holds the first place, but French and English are also
+taught." I was taken to a class in German literature. The plain and
+primitive furnishing of the class-rooms was in noticeable contrast to
+the elegance of the parlors. The girls sat on plain wooden benches,
+with desks before them on which their note-books lay open. They used
+these as those who had been trained to take notes and recite from
+them. I had been told that the teacher in charge of this class was one
+of the most excellent in the city. The hour was occupied by a lecture
+on Lessing, a poet whom the class were evidently studying with German
+minuteness.
+
+I also visited a class in reading,--younger girls, about ten or twelve
+years of age. They were admirably taught, both in reading and
+memorizing, the latter chiefly of German ballads. I saw no better
+teaching done in Berlin than that of this class. Its enthusiastic lady
+teacher would be a treasure in any land. The last visit of the morning
+was to a class in vocal music, taught by a gentleman. It was
+interesting as affording a view of the methods in this music-loving
+country, but did not differ materially from what would be considered
+good instruction and drill on this side the water. The teacher himself
+played the piano, the pupils standing in rows on either side.
+
+In the teachers' dressing-room, a comfortable apartment for the
+teachers who came from without the building, I chatted a few moments
+with two or three ladies. One spoke English so well that I asked if it
+were her vernacular. She appeared gratified by the compliment; said
+she had been much in other continental countries, and had spent three
+years in England, with eighteen months beside in the United States.
+She mistook me for an Englishwoman, and confidently informed me that
+she had feared her English accent was ruined by the time spent "in the
+States." "Did you find it so?" I inquired. "No," she said;
+"fortunately I was able to correct it by stopping in England on my way
+back." She had evidently not met the gentleman who informed his
+English friends that they must go to Boston, Massachusetts, if they
+would hear English spoken correctly. While in Berlin I heard of a
+young American who was accosted by an Englishman with a question as to
+what language she spoke. "I speak American," was the reply, "but I can
+understand English if it is spoken slowly."
+
+The wish to learn English is almost universal among Germans, and the
+schools have not been before public opinion in making it a part of the
+curriculum. The result as yet, however, judging from our observation,
+will justify greater painstaking and more practice, before a high
+degree of accuracy is reached among the pupils.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+CHURCHES.
+
+
+The greatest Protestant power of Continental Europe has no
+Court-churches worthy in appearance of companionship with its palaces
+and public buildings. But there are those of much historical and other
+interest, and in some of them the living power of Christianity bears
+sway. The _Dom_, or Cathedral, dating from the time of Frederick the
+Great, is far inferior, within and without, to the magnificent
+buildings which surround it, facing the _Lustgarten_, or Esplanade.
+Long ago royal plans were made to replace it by an edifice more
+worthy, but these have not been carried out, though since the
+accession of Emperor William II. measures have been taken looking
+toward the erection of a new cathedral.
+
+The usual hour for Sunday-morning service is ten o'clock. The latitude
+of Berlin is over ten degrees farther north than that of New York and
+Chicago, and the sun at ten o'clock in winter is about as high as at
+nine o'clock in the latter cities. So it is only by special effort
+that a midwinter sojourner in Berlin can be at morning service. Within
+three minutes of the time appointed, on my first visit, the aged
+Emperor William entered the _Dom_ and stood for a few minutes in the
+attitude of devotion, as did the other members of the Imperial
+household. The gallery on the left of the preacher was occupied by
+three boxes,--one for the Emperor, one for the Crown Prince and his
+family, and one for their retinues. The service proceeded in the
+language of the people,--that language created and preserved to
+Germany by Luther's translation of the Bible. A finely trained choir
+of some sixty singers led the music, all the people joining in the
+psalms and hymns; the Imperial family taking part in the service with
+simplicity and appearance of sincerity, as those who stood, with all
+present, in the presence of Him with whom is no respect of persons.
+The plain interior of the _Dom_ has a painting behind the altar, and
+the large candles in immense candlesticks on either side were burning
+before a crucifix throughout the entire service. This we found true
+also in most of the other churches,--a reminder that, wide as was the
+gulf between the Lutheran Church and that of Rome, the former retained
+some customs which Puritanism discarded. Pews fill the central part of
+this cathedral, and the broad aisle skirting the side at the left of
+the front entrance has a few seats for the delicate and infirm of the
+throng which always stands there at the time for the morning service.
+
+It was in this church that the departed Emperor William I. lay in
+state for the great funeral pageant when his ninety-one years of life
+were over. Here in the vaults many members of Prussia's royal family
+repose, and here many stately ceremonies have taken place. At the door
+of this cathedral Emperor William I., then Prince Regent, stood with
+uncovered head to receive the remains of Alexander Von Humboldt, which
+here lay in state in May, 1859, after the great scholar "went forth"
+for the last time from his home in the Oranienburger Strasse.
+
+We attended a service at the oldest of the Berlin churches, the
+Nicolai Kirche, and found the sparseness of the audience in striking
+contrast with the crowds which frequented most of the other churches
+where we went. Standing-room is usually at a premium in the Cathedral,
+the Garrison Church, and the place, wherever it may be, in which
+Dryander preaches; and in nearly all the churches unoccupied seats are
+hard to find. This is due, not to the large numbers of church-going
+people in Berlin, but to the comparatively limited church
+accommodations. It is not too soon that the present Emperor has given
+order that the number of churches and sittings be immediately
+increased. In this city of about a million and a half inhabitants,
+there are only about seventy-five churches and chapels, all told; none
+very large, and some quite small. It is said that Dryander's parish
+numbers forty thousand souls, and that there are other parishes
+including eighty thousand and one hundred and twenty thousand each.
+Only about two per cent of the population attend church. Ties to a
+particular church seem scarcely to exist in many cases; those who go
+to Divine service following their favorite preacher from place to
+place as he ministers now in one part, now in another, of his vast
+parish, or going to the Court Church to see the Imperial family, or to
+some other which happens to offer fine music or some special
+attraction for the day. Churches do not need, however, to offer
+special attractions nor to advertise sensational novelties in order to
+be filled, and of course there are many humble and devout Christians
+found in the same places from week to week.
+
+The Nicolai Kirche dates from before 1250 A.D. and the great granite
+foundations of the towers were laid still earlier. At this period the
+savage Wends and the robber-castles of North Germany were yielding to
+the prowess of the Knights of the Teutonic Order, and the powerful
+Hanseatic League was uniting its free cities and cementing its
+commercial interests, of which Berlin was erelong to be a part,--a
+League which was to sweep the Baltic by its fleets, and to set up and
+dethrone kings by its armies. Already the Crusades had broken the long
+sleep of the Dark Ages, and stirred the people with that mighty
+impulse which brought the culmination, in the thirteenth century, of
+the great church-building epoch of Europe in the Middle Ages. No
+great churches which they could not live to finish were begun by he
+frugal burghers of Berlin; but they had a style of their own in the
+brick Gothic, which is the most truly national architecture of North
+Germany. The Nicolai Kirche is a representative of these early times
+and of this national architecture, but its interior decorations show
+every variety of adornment which prevailed during five centuries after
+its founding. Not alone the history of art is represented on the inner
+walls of this venerable and unique edifice, but the municipal history,
+and the history of the "Mark of Brandenburg," and the Kingdom of
+Prussia as well.
+
+Almost as ancient as the Nicolai Kirche is the Heiliggeist Kirche,
+behind the Börse. Near this is the Marien Kirche, with its high spire,
+its Abbot's Cross--the emblem of Old Berlin--before the entrance, and
+on the inner walls its frescos of the Dance of Death, painted to
+commemorate the plague which ravaged Berlin in 1460. Adjoining this
+church, in the Neue Markt, Berlin's statue of Luther is to be erected.
+Of the same old time, and in the same old heart of Berlin, is the fine
+Kloster Kirche of the Franciscan monks, who had once a monastery
+adjoining. A morning's stroll or two enables one to inspect all these
+interesting old churches,--passing first to the Nicolai Kirche from
+the end of the tramway in the Fisch Markt, and then, by a convenient
+circuit, to each of the others, returning by the Museums and the
+Lustgarten. The Jerusalems Kirche, about three quarters of a mile
+south, is said to have been founded by a citizen at the end of the
+Crusades as a memento of his journey to Palestine; but its present
+ornamented architecture belongs to a modern reconstruction. An
+effective architectural group is formed by the two churches in the
+Schiller Platz, with the great _Schauspielhaus_, or Royal Theatre,
+between them,--a view which soon becomes familiar to one passing often
+through the central part of the city. The French Church, on the north
+side of the Theatre, we did not enter, and of the "New Church"--a
+hundred years old and recently rejuvenated--our most abiding memories
+are of an exquisite sacred concert given there in aid of a local
+charity. We made a pilgrimage to see the effect of this group by
+moonlight, but, perhaps because it had been too highly praised, we
+found the view rather disappointing. But we shall long remember a
+walk at evening twilight through this place, when early dusk and
+gleaming gas-jets around and within the square had taken the place of
+departing sunlight, which still bathed in radiance the gilded figures
+surmounting the domes in the clear upper air. Few of the hurrying
+multitudes stopped to look upward, but those who did could hardly fail
+to gain an impressive lesson from the inspiring and suggestive sight.
+
+Frommel, the good man and attractive preacher who usually officiates
+in the Garrison Church, is one of the four Court-preachers, each of
+whom is eminent in his way. We sat one morning, with many others, on
+the steps to the chancel in the Garrison Church, as the house was
+crowded in every part. The spacious galleries were filled with
+soldiers in Prussian uniform, and many also were in the pews below.
+The soldiers were not there merely in obedience to orders. They
+listened intently, for Court-preacher Frommel has a message to the
+minds and hearts of men. His oratory is eloquent, scintillating; from
+first to last it holds captive the crowded audience. Never have I
+witnessed gestures which were so essentially a part of the speaker;
+hands so incessantly assisting to convey subtle thought and feeling
+from the brain and heart of the orator to the magnetized audience,
+whose faces unconsciously testified to a mental and spiritual
+uplifting. It was told me that the aged Emperor never travelled from
+his capital without the attendance of this chaplain, as well known for
+his simple Christian integrity and his ceaseless good deeds as for his
+wonderful eloquence.
+
+Trinity Church, where for a quarter of a century Schleiermacher
+preached and wrought, is now ministered to by the worthy Dryander and
+his colleagues, who faithfully do what they can for the spiritual
+welfare of the immense parish. The edifice, of a peculiar model,
+stands in a central portion of Berlin, almost under the shadow of the
+lofty and famous hotel known as the Kaiserhof. On the Sunday mornings
+when Dryander preaches here, aisles, vestibules, and stairways are
+crowded until there is no standing-room, much less a seat, within
+sight or hearing of the popular preacher. His manner is simple, but
+very forceful and sympathetic, his earnest face and voice holding the
+audience like a spell.
+
+The finest religious music in Berlin is rendered on Friday evenings at
+sunset, in the great Jewish synagogue in the Oranienburger Strasse,
+built at a cost of six million marks, and said to be the best in
+Europe. The spacious interior seats nearly five thousand, with pews on
+the main floor for men only, and galleries for the women. Three
+thousand burning gas-jets above and behind the rich stained glass of
+the dome and side windows give an effect remarkable both for beauty
+and weirdness. The building without loses much by its close
+surroundings of ordinary houses, but the Moorish arches and
+decorations within are unique and effective. Over the sacred
+enclosure, where a red light always burns, and which contains the ark
+"of the law and the testimony," a gallery across the eastern end holds
+the fine organ, and accommodates the choir of eighty trained singers.
+Christmas eve happened in 1886 on a Friday; so, before the later
+German Christian home festival to which we were invited, we wended our
+way to the Jewish weekly sunset service. Neither among the men nor the
+women was there much outward evidence of devotion. In the female
+countenances around me in the gallery the well-known Jewish
+physiognomy was almost universal. While the rabbi read the service,
+with his back to the audience, most followed in their Hebrew books;
+but one by one many men slipped out, as though they were "on 'Change"
+and did not care to stay any longer to-day. The women remained, but
+with a slightly perfunctory air in most cases. One old crone before me
+seemed touched with the true pathos which belongs to her race and its
+history. She followed the service intently, swaying her body back and
+forth in time with the beautiful music, and ever and anon breaking
+forth in a low, sweet, plaintive strain with her own voice. Oh the
+longing of such lives, waiting to find through the centuries the
+realization of a hope never fulfilled and growing ever more and more
+dim! My Puritanism had been scarcely reconciled to the crucifix and
+the candles of the Protestant churches in Berlin, but now, if my life
+and hopes had depended on the religion of this Jewish ceremonial, I
+would have given worlds to find a crucifix in the vacant space above
+their Sacred Ark. These sweet strains of exquisite music seem to give
+voice without articulation to the unrevealed, imprisoned longing of
+the Jewish heart for something better than it knows. I could only
+compare the feeling, in this cold, mechanical worship of the
+Fatherhood of God, as it seemed to me, with the vague disappointment
+of climbing stairs in the dark, and stretching out foot and hand for
+another which is not there. The Christmas torches were burning in the
+Schloss-platz and the market-places without, crowded for days and
+nights past with a busy multitude, making ready for the
+Christ-festival which was to light a Christmas-tree that night in
+every home in Germany. Even Jews could not resist the gladness; and
+their homes, like the rest, had every one its Christmas-tree and its
+fill of cheer, paying their tribute to the world-wide joy, even though
+they would not. But as I sat among them and went forth with them, I
+thought also of their ancestral line stretching back to Abraham
+through centuries of the most wonderful history which belongs to any
+race. Beside these Israelites, how puerile the fame and deeds of the
+Hohenzollerns! The sixty or seventy thousand Jews of Berlin hold in
+their hands, it is said, a large part of the wealth of the city; but
+they are proscribed, and it is thought by many, unjustly treated
+before the law.
+
+The one English church in Berlin rejoices in a new and beautiful
+though chaste and modest edifice in the gardens of Monbijou Palace.
+The site, presented by the Emperor William I., is in the heart of the
+city, surrounded, in this quiet and beautiful place, by many
+interesting historic associations. The edifice was built chiefly
+through the efforts of the Crown Princess Victoria, who raised in
+London in a few hours a large part of the necessary funds, and who
+also devoted to this object, so dear to her English heart, presents
+received at her silver wedding. The service attracts on Sunday
+mornings, of course, all adherents of the Church of England, as well
+as many Americans, to whom the magnet of an Episcopal service is
+greater than that of the association of Christians of all
+denominations in the devout and simple worship of the Chapel in Junker
+Strasse, where the Union American and British service is held. One of
+the first places we essayed to find in Berlin was the chapel at
+present used by this organization. Our German landlady had unwittingly
+misdirected us, and we insisted on her direction, to the bewilderment
+of our cabman. Up one strange street and down another he drove, with
+sundry protests and shakes of the head on our part. We insist on
+"Heulmann Strasse." He stops and inquires. "Nein! nein!" he says,
+"Junker Strasse." "No! no!" we reply. He holds a conference with two
+brother drosky-men. Three Germans "of the male persuasion" outside
+insist on "Junker Strasse." Three Americans "of the female persuasion"
+inside insist on "Heulmann Strasse." "Nein!" says the man, with a
+determined air, and takes the reins now as though he means business.
+We lean back in our seats, resigned to going wrong because we cannot
+help ourselves, when lo! we draw up at the door of the building used
+by the American church in Junker Strasse. Those barbarous men were
+right, after all! Late; but how our hearts were warmed and cheered by
+the sight of a plain audience-room, holding about two hundred
+English-speaking people; the pulpit draped in our dear old American
+flag, and another on the choir-gallery! How precious were the simple
+devout hymns and prayers in our own tongue wherein we were born! There
+was an American Thanksgiving sermon,--eloquent, earnest, magnetic.
+Strangers in a strange land, we felt that we could never be homesick
+in a city where was such a service. This Union Church service was
+established some twenty-five or thirty years ago, Governor Wright,
+then United States Minister to Germany, being prominently connected
+with its beginnings. There is now a regular church organization, with
+the Bible and the Apostles' Creed as its doctrinal basis. For eight or
+nine years past, the present pastor, the Rev. J.H.W. Stückenberg,
+D.D., born in Germany, but a loyal and devoted soldier and citizen of
+the American Republic, has, with his accomplished wife, been
+indefatigable in caring for the services, and administering to the
+needs--physical, social, and religious--of Americans in Berlin. The
+first gathering which we attended in the city was an American
+Thanksgiving Banquet, under the auspices of the "Ladies' Social Union"
+connected with this "American Chapel." Invitations were issued to an
+"American Home Gathering," for Thanksgiving evening, to be held in the
+Architectenhaus at six o'clock. Greetings, witty and wise, were
+extended to the assembled company of some two hundred, by a lady from
+Boston; grace was said by Professor Mead, formerly of Andover, and the
+American Thanksgiving dinner was duly appreciated, though some of us
+had in part forestalled its appetizing pleasures by attendance at a
+delightful private afternoon dinner-party, where the true home flavors
+had been heightened by the shadow of the American flag which draped
+its silken folds above the table, depending from candelabra in which
+"red, white, and blue" wax lights were burning.
+
+Only the initiated can know what such an American Thanksgiving dinner
+as that given in this public entertainment in Germany must mean to the
+painstaking ladies, who need to direct every detail in contravention
+of the established customs of the country. Turkey was forthcoming, but
+cranberries were sought far and wide in vain, until Dresden at last
+sent an imitation of the American berry, to keep it company. Mince
+pies were regarded as essential to the feast. As pies are here
+unknown, the pie-plates must be made to order after repeated and
+untold minuteness of direction to the astonished tinman. The ordinary
+kitchen ranges of Germany are without ovens, and all cake and pastry,
+as well as bread, must emerge from the baker's oven. So to the shop of
+the baker two ladies repaired, to mix with their own hands the pastry
+and to prepare the mince-meat, graciously declining the yeast and
+eggs offered them for the purpose. The delicious results justified in
+practical proof the tireless endeavor for a real home-like American
+dinner. Our German friends laughed at the "dry banquet" where only
+lemonade and coffee kept the viands company, but right good cheer was
+not wanting. Before the guests rose from table, the pastor read
+letters of regret from Minister Pendleton (absent in affliction) and
+others, and proposed the health of the President of the United States
+and of Mrs. Cleveland, who, as Miss Folsom, shared in the Berlin
+festivities of Americans at Thanksgiving the year before. The toast
+which followed--to the aged Emperor William--was most cordially
+responded to by a member of the Empress's household, Count Bernsdorff,
+endeared to many in both hemispheres by his active interest in
+whatsoever things are true and of good report. Rare music was
+discoursed at intervals, from a band in the gallery, alternating with
+amateur performers on the violin and piano, from under the German and
+American flags intertwined at the opposite end of the handsome hall.
+The good name of American students of music in Berlin was well
+deserved, judging from their contributions to the enjoyment of this
+occasion. The evening's programme closed with our national airs in
+grand chorus, cheering and inspiring all. To some hearts the dear
+melody of "The Suwanee River," which afterwards floated out on the
+evening air of the busy city, mingled a pathos before unsuspected with
+the good-nights and the adieus, and brought an undertone of sadness
+caused by the knowledge that we were far from home, and that our loved
+ones, from Atlantic to Pacific, were returning from their Thanksgiving
+sermon, or later gathering about the festal board, at the hour when
+we, wanderers, were clustered in the heart of the German Empire with
+like purpose and in like precious faith and memory.
+
+The Sunday services of this enterprise are now held in an edifice
+belonging to a German Methodist church, which can be had for one
+service only, at an hour which will not interfere with the uses which
+have a prior claim. The Sunday evenings, when a goodly congregation
+might be gathered if a suitable audience-room could be had, are times
+of loneliness and homesickness to many American youth and others far
+from home and friends. Dr. and Mrs. Stückenberg have generously
+opened their own pleasant home at 18 Bülow Strasse for Sunday-evening
+receptions to Americans. Their large and beautiful apartments were
+much too small to accommodate all who would gladly have gathered
+there. But in the course of the season there were few Americans
+attending the morning service who were not to be met, one Sunday
+evening or another, in the parlors of the pastor and his wife; and
+many others, students, were nearly always there. A half-hour was given
+on these occasions to social greetings; then followed familiar hymns,
+led by the piano and a volunteer choir of young people, after which an
+informal lecture was given by the pastor. Dr. Stückenberg emigrated
+with his parents to America in early childhood, but has studied in the
+Universities of Halle, Göttingen, Berlin, and Tübingen. His large
+acquaintance with German scholars enabled him to give most interesting
+reminiscences of the teaching and personality of some of these, his
+teachers and friends. Among the talks which we remember vividly were
+those on Tholuck, Dörner, and Von Ranke. At another time Dr.
+Stückenberg gave a series of lectures on Socialism,--a theme whose
+manifold aspects he has studied profoundly, and which, in Germany as
+elsewhere, is the question of the hour, the day, and the century, and
+perhaps of the next century too. After the lecture there generally
+followed prayer and another hymn, and always slight refreshments,--tea
+and sandwiches, or little cakes,--over which all chatted and were free
+to go when they would. Many were the occasions when, in these
+gatherings, every heart seemed to partake of the gladness radiated by
+the magnetic host and hostess; and all Europe seemed brighter because
+of these homelike, social, Christian Sunday evenings which lighted up
+the sojourn in Berlin. The effort now being made to build a permanent
+and commodious church edifice for Americans in Berlin is a pressing
+necessity.
+
+Dr. Christlieb, the eminent Professor of Theology and University
+Preacher in Bonn, asserts that the number of American students in
+Berlin is now by far the largest congregated in any one place in
+Germany. The number, as stated in 1888 by Rev. Dr. Philip Schaff, was
+about four hundred, besides the numerous American travellers there
+every year for a longer or shorter time. Seventeen denominations have
+been represented in this church in a single year, and any evangelical
+minister in good standing in his own church is eligible to election as
+its pastor. From the beginning these union services have been entirely
+harmonious; and Methodists, Congregationalists, Presbyterians,
+Baptists, Lutherans, and Episcopalians have been chiefly active in
+promoting them.
+
+The churches of the royal suburb of Potsdam possess an interest quite
+equal to that of those in Berlin. The Potsdam Garrison Church, in
+general interior outlines, reminds one of some quaint New England
+meeting-house of the early part of the eighteenth century. But here
+the resemblance ceases. The ancient arrangement of windows and
+galleries impresses one only at the moment of entering, attention
+being presently diverted to the flags clustered on the gallery pillars
+and on either side the pulpit, in two rows,--the lower captured from
+the French in the wars with the First Napoleon, the upper taken in the
+late contests with Austria and with Napoleon III. Altar-cloths and
+other furnishings are heavily embroidered with the handiwork of
+vanished queens. But the chief interest centres in the vault under the
+handsome marble pulpit. In this vault, on the left, are the mortal
+remains of the old Prussian King, Frederick William I.,--father of
+Frederick the Great,--a character hard to understand, and interpreted
+differently as one surveys him in the light of Macaulay's genius or
+that of Carlyle. But one cannot help hoping that the final verdict
+will be with the latter; and as we stand in this solemn place, memory
+recalls the day--the midnight, rather--when this same oak coffin, long
+before the death of the King made ready by his orders in the old
+Palace of Potsdam close at hand, at last received its burden, and was
+borne in Spartan simplicity to this place, the torch-lighted band
+playing his favorite dirge,--
+
+    "Oh, Sacred Head, now wounded!"
+
+On the right, separated from the coffin of his father only by the
+short aisle, is that of Frederick the Great. Three wreaths were lying
+upon it,--placed there by the Emperor and by the Crown Prince and the
+Crown Princess on the hundredth anniversary of the death of this
+founder of Prussia's greatness, August 17, 1886. Fortunate is the
+visitor to Potsdam who does not altogether overlook this Garrison
+Church, misled by the brief mention usually accorded to it in the
+guide-books.
+
+The Friedenskirche, near the entrance to the park of Sans Souci, has a
+detached high clock-tower adjoining, and cloisters beautiful, even in
+winter, with the myrtle and ivy and evergreens of the protected court
+which they surround. In the inner court is a copy of Thorwaldsen's
+celebrated statue of Christ (the original at Copenhagen); also,
+Rauch's original "Moses, supported by Aaron and Hur," and a beautiful
+_Pieta_ is in the opposite colonnade. The church is in the form of the
+ancient basilica, which is not favorable to much adornment. A crucifix
+of _lapis lazuli_ under a canopy resting on jasper columns--a present
+from the Czar Nicholas--stands on the marble altar. A beautiful angel
+in Carrara marble adorns the space before the chancel, above the
+burial-slabs of King Frederick William IV., founder of the church, and
+his queen; and the apse is lined with a rare old Venetian mosaic. But
+the chief interest of this "Church of Peace" will henceforth centre
+around it as the burial-place of the Emperor Frederick III. In an
+apartment not formerly shown to the public, his young son, Waldemar,
+was laid to rest at the age of eleven years, deeply mourned by the
+Crown Prince, the Crown Princess, and their family. Here in this
+church, beside his sons Waldemar and Sigismund, who died in infancy,
+it was the wish of the dying father to lie buried. Here the quiet
+military funeral service was held; here the last look of that noble
+face was taken amid the tears of those who loved him well, while the
+sunlight, suddenly streaming through an upper window, illuminated as
+with an electric light that face at rest, as the Court-preacher Koëgel
+uttered the words of solemn trust,--
+
+    "What God doeth is well done."
+
+Fitting it is that in this "Church of Peace" should rest all that was
+mortal of the immortal Prince who could say, as he entered Paris in
+the flush of victory: "Gentlemen, I do not like war. If I should
+reign, I would never make it."
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+MUSEUMS.
+
+
+The chief art treasures of Berlin are found in the Royal Museums, Old
+and New, and in the National Gallery. There are few more
+characteristic and inspiring sights in Europe than that which greets
+the eye in a walk on a sunny afternoon in winter from the palace of
+Kaiser Wilhelm I. through the Operahaus Platz and the Zeughaus Platz,
+across the Schloss Brücke and the Lustgarten, to the peerless building
+of the Old Museum,--with the grand equipages, the brilliant uniforms,
+and the busy but not overcrowded life which throng the vast spaces of
+these handsome thoroughfares. The Old Museum is not so rich in
+masterpieces as some other and older art galleries, but there are many
+fine original works. The Friezes from the Altar of Zeus, excavated
+within a few years at Pergamus, are extremely interesting, and are
+exhibited with all the adjuncts which the most thorough German
+scholarship can supply for their elucidation. The celebrated Raphael
+tapestry, woven for Henry VIII. from the cartoons now in the South
+Kensington Museum, and long the foremost ornament of the palace of
+Whitehall, hangs in the great upper rotunda, which is a setting not
+unworthy of its fame. Michael Angelo's "John the Baptist as a Boy,"
+one of his early works, is quite unlike most of this master's work, in
+conception and execution, and is interesting especially on this
+account. The "Altar-piece of the Mystic Lamb" is remarkable for its
+merits and because it is reputed to be the first picture ever painted
+in oils. Murillo's "Ecstasy of Saint Anthony" is a picture of rare
+sweetness and power. In one room are five of Raphael's Madonnas, but
+only one of them is in his better style. "The collection of pictures
+in the Old Museum," wrote George Eliot in 1855, "has three gems which
+remain in the imagination,--'Titian's Daughter,' Correggio's 'Jupiter
+and Io,' and his 'Head of Christ on a Handkerchief.' I was pleased,
+also, to recognize among the pictures the one by Jan Steem which
+Goethe describes in the 'Wahlverwandschaften' as the model of a
+_tableau vivant_ presented by Lucian and her friends. It is the
+daughter being reproved by her father, while the mother empties her
+wine-glass."
+
+The department of the Museum known as the Antiquarium has its
+treasures. Here is the original silver table service, supposed to be
+that of a Roman General, dug up in 1868 near the old German mediæval
+town of Hildesheim. A handsome copy of this service is among the
+beginnings of Chicago's Art collections. Here are the exquisite
+terra-cotta statuettes from the ancient Grecian Colony of Tanagra,
+which no modern work of plastic art can imitate in grace of form and
+delicacy of color,--dating three or four hundred years before the
+Christian era; and in other rooms, a fabulous collection of jewels,
+and numberless precious vases, illustrating especially the progress of
+Ancient Grecian Art.
+
+The New Museum, connected by a colonnade with the Old, is not, like
+it, remarkable for architectural beauty; but its vast collections,
+especially in marble, already need and are to have a new building.
+The masterpieces of ancient sculpture gathered at Munich, Vienna,
+Paris, Rome, Naples, and elsewhere, are here reproduced in casts,
+making up a collection said to be, in its way, unrivalled in the
+world. The collection of originals in Renaissance sculpture is also
+extensive and valuable.
+
+Referring to sculpture in Berlin, George Eliot wrote: "We went again
+and again to look at the Parthenon Sculptures, and registered a vow
+that we would go to feast on the originals [in the British Museum] the
+first day we could spare in London." At the date before mentioned, her
+opinion was that "the first work of art really worth looking at that
+one sees in Berlin is the 'Horse-Tamers' in front of the [Old] palace.
+It is by a sculptor [Baron Clodt, of St. Petersburg] who made horses
+his especial study; and certainly, to us, they eclipsed the famous
+Colossi at Monte Cavallo, casts of which are in [before] the New
+Museum."
+
+The Department of Coins has 200,000 specimens, many very old and rare;
+and that of Northern Antiquities illustrates with great fulness the
+prehistoric and Roman periods. The Cabinet of Engravings is extremely
+interesting, and has some specimens of very great value; but it is
+open to the general public for a few hours on Sunday only, and even
+then the greater part of its collections is reserved to art students,
+who have the entire monopoly of its treasures on other days of the
+week. It well repays persistent effort, however, to make a few quiet
+visits to this rare cabinet. Some of the finest works are hung on the
+walls of the pleasant rooms.
+
+The famous mural paintings by Kaulbach adorning the upper staircase
+walls of the New Museum are widely admired, but critics differ in the
+estimate of their place as works of art. The upper saloons reached by
+this staircase show the cartoons of Cornelius, and foreshadow a
+grandeur in German art not yet realized.
+
+The third building in the group which holds the chief art treasures of
+Berlin is the National Gallery, its pictures partaking, as such a
+collection should, strongly of the German spirit as shown in modern
+German art. The paintings are of various degrees of merit, many being
+of value chiefly as reflecting the national life. A fine portrait of
+Mommsen arrested me, on one visit; a striking picture, "Christ healing
+a Sick Child in its Mother's Arms," by Gabriel Max, was a continual
+favorite; and many others were among those to which we went frequently
+and before which we lingered long.
+
+The crowning excellence of all the Royal Art Collections is their
+singular method and completeness. The Old Museum, especially, in its
+arrangement and illustration of the history of painting in all
+schools, is without a peer, and it is particularly rich in the early
+Italian masters. The National Gallery in London has been compared in
+arrangement with the Berlin Museum, but our observation showed nowhere
+else in Europe so great facility for systematic study of art as here.
+
+Quite recently, a writer in the "London Art Journal," in comparing
+European art galleries, characterizes the Italian galleries, except
+the Pitti, as mere storehouses of pictures, so great have been the
+accessions, in late years, of altar-pieces from suppressed convents;
+while, on the other hand, the Louvre, and the galleries of Munich,
+Dresden, Vienna, St. Petersburg, and Madrid still retain their
+original characteristics as collections made by persons of taste and
+discrimination. "The Berlin Gallery," says this writer, "is neither a
+storehouse nor a collection. It stands on a footing of its own. The
+studious and organizing Prussian mind soon handed over the management
+of all its collections to a body of specialists, trained to study the
+objects in their keeping and to arrange them not so much for the
+delight as for the information of a studious public. The Berlin
+Gallery has been thus arranged, and its additions have been purchased
+under the direction of scholars and historians rather than artists and
+_dilettanti_. Historical sequence and historical completeness have
+been aimed at. The collection is intended to exemplify the development
+of the art of painting in mediæval and renascence Europe. It is
+impossible to enter the Museum gallery and not be struck with this
+fact. The visitor finds himself turned into a student of the history
+of painting, as he wanders from room to room. The ordering of the
+pictures, the information contained in the catalogue,--everything
+points in the same direction. So clearly has the Museum come to be
+understood at Berlin as a kind of art-history branch of a university,
+that a portion of the funds devoted to it is annually spent upon the
+publication of a periodical universally recognized as the leading
+magazine in the world devoted to the history of art. By means of it,
+students in all countries are informed from year to year of the new
+acquisitions and discoveries made by the staff of the Museum, or by
+the leading authors and students of the subject, of all nationalities.
+The Berlin collection has thus won for itself a place as the
+historical collection _par excellence_."
+
+The Museums are under the care of a Director-General, with nine or
+more Directors of Departments. Dr. Julius Meyer, Director of the
+Picture-Gallery, is said to be probably unequalled by any living
+writer for a wide and philosophic grasp of the whole subject of Art
+History, to which his life has been devoted; while the names of
+distinguished scholars and professors at the head of the other
+departments are guaranties of similar excellence. A series of four
+illustrated volumes is now in process of publication, which will
+present, in photographs and engravings, large or small, every picture
+of importance in the gallery. The text of these volumes, by Drs. Meyer
+and Bode, will be extremely valuable, and the whole will doubtless
+stand foremost among publications designed as exponents of European
+galleries.
+
+The fine and massive building of the Arsenal, opposite the palace of
+the late Crown Prince, dates from the time of Frederick I., last of
+the Electors and first of the Prussian Kings. The grand sculptures of
+the German artist Schlüter, who was afterwards called to the aid of
+Peter the Great in the creation of St. Petersburg, adorn the exterior
+of the edifice. Any chance walk along the Linden will arrest the
+attention to this building, with the remarkable heads of dying
+warriors carved in the keystones of its window arches. In the
+renovation of the Arsenal a few years since, no improvement was made
+on the exterior, except to remove the accumulations of smoke and dust
+which a hundred and seventy years had deposited there. After the close
+of the Franco-Prussian War, it was the thought of the aged Emperor to
+make this Arsenal, already crowded with an immense collection of arms,
+armor, and trophies, into a kind of Walhalla,--a National Hall of
+Fame. This was fully carried out. In rooms on the ground floor one may
+read the whole history of ordnance, old and new, including the famous
+Armstrong and Krupp guns. A portion of this floor is devoted to models
+of fortresses, plans of battles, and captured flags. There is a war
+library; and the celebrated pictures of the Giant Grenadiers, painted
+with his own hand by Frederick William I., father of Frederick the
+Great, are also to be seen.
+
+A magnificent double staircase under a glass roof leads to the second
+floor (in Germany called the first), where one portion is devoted to
+an interesting collection of arms, which is, however, inferior to
+those of one or two other European cities. The chief attraction to the
+visitor, as well as a permanent magnet to the patriotic Berlinese, who
+come hither in whole families, is the "Hall of Fame," consisting of
+three sections, all splendid in mosaic floors and massive marble
+pillars, and adorned with sculpture and fine historical frescos. One
+of the latter represents the Coronation of the first King of Prussia
+at Königsberg, and another has for its subject the Proclamation of the
+German Empire at Versailles. The Central Hall is adorned with bronze
+statues of the Great Elector, of the Fredericks and Frederick-Williams
+of the Prussian royal line, and of the Emperor William I. The "Halls
+of the Generals," on either side of this "Hall of the Rulers," have
+busts of the military leaders, including a fine one of the Crown
+Prince. Here are also several historical paintings; prominent among
+which are "The Battle of Turin," "The Emperor William and the Crown
+Prince at Königgrätz," and "The Capitulation at Sedan."
+
+Perhaps no collection, among many more which might be mentioned,
+better illustrates the practical working of the German mind than the
+Royal Post Museum in the Leipziger Strasse. Here is shown everything
+of interest connected with the transmission of intelligence, and
+poetry as well as prose has entered into the heart of this Government
+exhibit. On the walls of the first saloon entered by the visitor are
+copies in stone of Assyrian bas-reliefs showing a warrior with chariot
+and arrows. This suggests to us a scene in the lives of David and
+Jonathan; but communication by means of arrows is probably much older
+than the time of David. Earlier than even the Assyrian stone must have
+been the model for the Egyptian wicker and wooden post-chariot. In
+this room, under a glass case, is an exquisite marble statuette, found
+at Tanagra, of a Grecian girl seated, and writing on a tablet; and not
+far away is a Roman warrior, carrying his message. Entering the next
+hall, we pass a beautiful bronze statue of Philip, the Grecian
+soldier, bearing a laurel spray, stretching his athletic limbs in
+breathless strides as he goes toward the capital to announce the
+battle of Marathon, and to fall dead on his entrance to the city, with
+the single word "Victory!" on his lips. Here on the walls are four
+emblematic pictures: "The Land-Post," representing a knight with a
+sealed missive in his hand, standing beside and curbing his fiery
+steeds; "The Sea-Post," showing a mail-carrier on the back of a
+dolphin in the midst of stormy waves far out at sea; "The Telegraph,"
+with Jove and his lightnings as its central figure: and "The
+_Rohrpost_,"--a maiden, blowing into an orifice with "the breath of
+all the winds." This last is emblematic of that postal arrangement in
+Berlin by which letters and postal cards are sent with great speed
+through pneumatic tubes from which the air is exhausted by means of
+pumps, and which makes it possible to receive a written message from a
+distant part of the city within a few minutes after it is written.
+
+Among the ancient representations are models of the boats in which the
+old Norsemen sailed the seas, and of those by which our Anglo-Saxon
+ancestors invaded England from Germany. These are strikingly
+contrasted, in their simplicity and clumsiness, with a fully equipped
+model, from four to six feet long, of a modern North German Lloyd
+Atlantic mail steamship, than which no better equipped boat sails the
+main. One goes on, past a Gobelin tapestry representing a mail-scene
+at Nüremberg in the Middle Ages, through long halls and corridors
+where are hundreds of models of post-office buildings of the most
+convenient and approved plans, in all parts of the world. These are of
+every variety of architecture, from the great general post-office in
+London, the handsome Hanover post-office building, those of the
+central and district post-offices in Berlin, Dresden, Cologne,
+Heidelberg, and many others in South Germany, to the modern edifices
+which adorn, and yet seem strangely out of keeping with, the
+picturesque old North German towns. These models are miniature copies
+of the exteriors of post-office buildings, varying in length from one
+and a half to six or eight feet, and of corresponding height. One most
+interesting model shows the interior of a modern post-office, each
+floor showing an exact copy of its department of the service, with
+all appliances and conveniences.
+
+In another room are miniature mail-coaches of different kinds. In the
+centre of this apartment stands a life-size figure of a mail-carrier
+in Germany of four hundred years ago. He is a wild-looking official,
+reminding one by his bronzed features and general appearance of some
+trusty Indian scout, as he holds his gun in an attitude of suspicion
+and menace, while a bear-cub opens a capacious mouth at his feet.
+
+Model mail and post-office cars occupy the side of another large room;
+but this exhibit is so vast and varied that the memory refuses to
+retain its classification, and holds side by side Alaskan sledges
+drawn by dogs, Russian post-chaises with reindeer teams, mail-boats on
+Norwegian fiords, carrier-pigeons and balloons, camels and elephants,
+and the model mail-coach of the lightning express of the New York
+Central Railroad. The working appliance used in America for catching
+off a mail-bag without stopping the train attracts much attention.
+There is a complete set of the weights and measures used in British
+post-offices, and two glass cases show the forms of horseshoes best
+adapted to the speed of horses carrying mails. Tablets, pens, and
+pencils have cases to themselves, as well as parchments, ancient rolls
+and ink-horns, reeds and papyrus. Here are the primitive postal
+arrangements of some of the East Indies; there is the yellow satin
+missive with a scarlet seal which carries the royal mandates of Siam.
+Pictures and models of mail-carrying elephants come next, their gay
+saddle-cloths filled with pockets and parchment rolls. A model of a
+Japanese post-office is finished in all its interior with the
+perfection of detail and delicacy of execution which characterize the
+best Japanese work. A framed engraving of the International Postal
+Congress at Berne in 1874 hangs near one of the Congress at Paris in
+1878. There is a room devoted to the exhibition of postal stamps,
+cards, and envelopes of every kind, and there are several rooms where
+models of the most approved kinds of telegraphic apparatus are shown.
+In a corridor are all varieties of submarine cables, with the ore and
+the Bessemer steel of which they are spun. In one of the rooms a small
+crowd is collected about an operator who speaks through a telephone,
+records the sound of his own voice on strips of foil, which he tears
+into fragments and distributes to those who eagerly reach for them. In
+the centre of this room there is a tiny circular railway, with a
+coach, but no locomotive, standing on the track. By turning the wheel
+of an electro-magnet the official produces an electric light at the
+extremity of a model burner; then, applying the same power to the
+little railway, propels the coach at a rapid rate by means of the
+invisible agent. One goes forth into the street, past wax figures of
+armed and mounted mail-messengers in the Middle Ages, past the model
+street mail-boxes and carriages which help to make so wonderful the
+Berlin postal arrangements, in a maze at what may here be seen in a
+single half-hour of the history of mail-carrying in all lands and
+ages. The originator of this "Post Museum" is Dr. Stephan, the
+inventor of the postal card and the chief promoter of the
+International Postal Union. His is the "power behind the throne" which
+has made the German postal system a marvel of efficiency, unsurpassed,
+if not unrivalled, in the world.
+
+Less known to travellers than many others far inferior in interest, is
+the Hohenzollern Museum, occupying the Monbijou Palace in the heart of
+Berlin. This palace, of so much interest to the readers of Carlyle's
+"Frederick the Great," has been transformed into a repository for the
+personal belongings and memorials of the kings and queens of Prussia.
+One or more rooms devoted to each sovereign in historical succession
+make up a fascinating picture of the royal customs of the kingdom for
+two hundred years. Our attention was called to this museum by an
+English resident, but its interest far exceeded our expectations. Here
+are the laces, jewels, and often the entire wardrobes of the
+Hohenzollern queens, with their writing desks and tablets,
+jewel-cases, embroidery, work-baskets, mirrors, beds, and other
+furniture; and the kings have each their own apartment likewise,
+tenanted by their "counterfeit presentments" in wax, sitting or
+standing in the very clothes they wore, and surrounded by visible
+mementos of the life they used to live. The glittering eyes and
+mundane expression of Frederick William I., father of Frederick the
+Great, give one a strange feeling, and the chairs and table of his
+"Tobacco College" must have a vivid interest for every reader of
+Carlyle's "Frederick." But when we entered the rooms containing the
+many mementos of the Great Frederick himself, from his effigy in the
+cradle and his baby shoes, and threaded all the vicissitudes of that
+strangely fascinating life by the help of its visible surroundings,
+and finally stood before the glass case containing a mask of his dead
+face and hand surrounded by its laurel wreath, the spell of the past
+was at its height. It was a bright sunny afternoon, and the golden
+light came in long slanting lines through windows opening on Monbijou
+gardens, beautiful even in winter, and lay upon the tessellated floors
+of the corridors in patterns of shining glory. The chat and laughter
+of young companions floated from adjoining rooms, and the foot of the
+guard fell softly in the marble halls. But a kind of awe born of that
+wonderful past had taken possession of me. I was alone with the spirit
+of the Great Monarch, and it was more than could be borne. We hurried
+away from the spot, as when children we fled from fancied ghosts. To
+one in search of a genuine sensation, we recommend the reading (with
+judicious skipping) of Carlyle's "Frederick the Great," and a visit,
+alone or with a single companion, to the Hohenzollern Museum.
+
+Upwards of twenty years ago, German trade was falling behind in the
+best markets of the world, because the products of German industry
+were largely poor in quality and deficient in artistic value. With the
+Duke of Ratisbon, President of the Herrenhaus, as chairman of a
+committee appointed to consider the subject, a few leading minds
+combined in a movement which issued in the establishment of the
+Industrial Art Museum. The Crown Prince and the Crown Princess were
+much interested in the subject, and gave the plan their hearty
+support. Less than ten years since, the fine new building in Zimmer
+Strasse near Königgrätzer was opened on the birthday of the Crown
+Princess, to receive the vast treasures accumulated, by gift, loan,
+and purchase, for the permanent exhibition. A cursory visit, though
+most interesting, is sometimes bewildering from the extent and variety
+of the collection. The centre of the edifice consists of a large
+court, roofed with glass and surrounded by two galleries. This is the
+place reserved for loan exhibitions, and several of importance have
+already been held here. One of the earlier was of some of the
+treasures of the South Kensington Museum, loaned by Queen Victoria.
+Opening upon these arcades are numerous halls on the lower floor,
+devoted to the permanent exhibition. The classification of the objects
+exhibited, if not loose, is very general, seeming to us inferior to
+the method which makes the South Kensington a delight, whether one has
+hours or months in which to visit it. On the ground floor of this
+Berlin Museum are "objects in the making of which fire is not used."
+This includes domestic and ecclesiastical furniture of different
+countries and historical periods, musical instruments, tapestries,
+carvings in ivory and wood, and many other objects widely separated in
+thought. A fine exhibit is made of articles in amber wrought by
+workmen of rich old Dantzic, for which Baltic Germany furnishes the
+raw material. The ancient Italian carved bridal-chests brought vividly
+to mind our childhood's favorite story of Ginevra, by chance
+imprisoned in such a chest on the day which was to have witnessed her
+marriage.
+
+The upper floor, with an arrangement similar to that of the lower,
+shows "objects in the manufacture of which fire is necessary." The
+very extensive collection of pottery and porcelain was surpassed, in
+our observation, only by that at Sèvres; and there are many rare and
+valuable specimens of work in glass and metals. The ancient municipal
+silver service of the city of Lüneberg, bought at a cost of $165,000,
+deserves the attention it attracts; and the work of German mediæval
+goldsmiths--particularly of the famous Augsburg artisans--is a
+revelation of the possibilities of human handiwork. Stained glass, of
+much historic and artistic value, fills the windows of the entire
+building. The specimens of textile fabrics, in completeness and
+extent, are matchless, and are so arranged as to afford the utmost
+facility to students of the history of this important subject, as well
+as great pleasure to the favored visitor who has the opportunity to
+inspect them.
+
+This "Künstgewerbe Museum" is open to the public without charge on
+three days of the week, and for a small fee on the remaining days;
+while its valuable industrial library may be freely consulted on four
+week-day evenings. Its influence is already strongly felt along the
+lines of trade and industry throughout the Empire.
+
+The great Ethnographical Museum adjoining, on the corner of
+Königgrätzer Strasse, has the kind and variety of objects usually
+found in such exhibitions, including those connected with several
+races of American Indians. The other departments were, to us, eclipsed
+in interest by the Schliemann exhibition of Trojan remains on the
+ground floor. Here we found, on the walls, framed pencil or India ink
+sketches of the localities where the earlier excavations were made,
+plans of the work, sections of the unearthed portions, and the
+precious old Trojan antiquities themselves, deposited here for
+inspection and safe keeping.
+
+The Märkische Museum, in the Fisch Markt, a centre of Old Berlin,
+illustrates the history and the prehistoric times of the Mark of
+Brandenburg, including an interesting department of curiosities from
+the lake-dwellings and tumuli. There are also ancient coins and other
+objects picked up at different times within the province. One of the
+later treasures of this unique museum is the box from which the monk
+Tetzel sold the indulgences which fanned into a flame the rising fires
+of the Reformation.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+THE GERMAN REICHSTAG AND THE PRUSSIAN PARLIAMENT.
+
+
+The Reichstag, or Imperial Diet of the German Empire, was, during our
+stay in Berlin, a focus for the eyes of all Europe and America. The
+Government, professedly actuated by a fear of war, asked for an
+appropriation, largely to increase the army annually for a term of
+seven years. This House of Deputies, elected by the people and
+numbering nearly four hundred members, contained a considerable
+element of opposition to the Government. The debate over the Army Bill
+brought Chancellor Bismarck up from his distant country-seat, where he
+had spent several previous months, to a participation in the contest
+which was anticipated on both sides with eagerness and solicitude.
+
+The building on Leipziger Strasse, as severe in inner details as in
+the sombre gray of its outer walls, was hastily constructed in 1871
+for the accommodation of the newly consolidated German Empire, and has
+long been inadequate to the need. A single gallery surrounds three
+sides of the hall, and is occupied on the right by boxes for the
+Imperial household, the diplomatic corps, and high officials. The left
+is appropriated to English and American visitors; and the centre,
+immediately above the desk of the presiding officer and the elevated
+seats of the Chancellor and members of the Bundesrath, is alone left
+for the general public. When the new building near the Thiergarten
+shall be occupied, it is hoped that greatly improved acoustics and
+ventilation may be secured, and the accommodations for visitors such
+that it may not be said that there are Germans in Berlin who have for
+years desired visitors' tickets of admission without having been able
+to secure them.
+
+By a singular good fortune, our tickets gave us seats for this debate
+in full view of the leaders of each of the great parties. On the
+first day the Prime Minister made his great speech, and on the second
+day thereafter, Richter, the leader of the progressive party, took up
+the speech point by point, and with bold and vigorous oratory for two
+hours held the attention of all to his own opposing views. A man of
+robust physique, still in the prime of life, Richter's dark complexion
+and facial expression give the impression of "staying qualities"
+formidable as lasting. The session opened at eleven o'clock A.M., and
+the veteran General and Field-Marshal Von Moltke was the first
+speaker. His rising was the signal for a general hush, and for about a
+quarter of an hour all listened in breathless silence. Half the width
+of the hall from the observer, his more than eighty years seemed to
+sit lightly on "the great taciturnist;" and his fair complexion, fine
+brow, thin face, and singular firmness of mouth have the fascination
+of genius. Later, during the long and sometimes denunciatory speech of
+Richter, he seemed wearied. Rising from his seat in the front rank of
+the Conservatives on the extreme right, he moved to the rear, stood in
+the aisle, took a vacant seat,--resting by various changes for
+fifteen or twenty minutes; but when, between one and two o'clock, the
+time for Bismarck's entrance approached, he returned to his own seat
+and thenceforth listened attentively. Like the aged Emperor, Von
+Moltke's age was most apparent in his movements. Sitting or standing,
+he was the graceful, well-bred gentleman, as well as the dignified
+chief of the German army. In walking, his movement is slow, and
+lacking vigor to a marked degree. The offer of the Opposition to vote
+for the bill with a term of one, two, or even three years, while
+declaring that they could not vote for seven, was haughtily received
+by the Prime Minister, who had already given his reasons, supported by
+the Emperor, by Von Moltke, and other eminent military authority, for
+adhering to the longer term. "I will not abate a hair's breadth of the
+septenate," said he. "If you do not vote it, I prefer to deal with
+another Reichstag." This on the second day of the debate. On the third
+day Bismarck replied to some of the positions of the Opposition, in a
+speech of three quarters of an hour, immediately following his
+opponent, Richter. The latter, and the members on the left included in
+the three great divisions of the Liberal party, retired from the hall
+at the conclusion of Richter's two hours' speech; but the centre, or
+Catholic party, among whom were several priests and a number of very
+keen and watchful physiognomies, remained in their seats, as well as
+the Conservatives of both grades. Soon Richter was back, though
+without his supporters. Fumbling a moment at his desk for pencil and
+paper, he stepped forward in the aisle, so as not to lose the
+sentences of Bismarck (occasionally somewhat indistinct), and refusing
+to be diverted for more than an instant by the communications of
+friends and officials. Cries of _Ja wohl! Ja wohl!_ and _Bravo!_ were
+heard from the right during the speech of Bismarck, with now and again
+a general ripple of laughter at some pleasantry accessible to the
+German mind; but these were much outdone in heartiness by the applause
+which frequently interrupted Richter when speaking. There is a
+massiveness about this scene which rises up in memory with a vividness
+greater, if possible, than the reality made on our excited and wearied
+endurance during the hours we spent there. Later, Windhorst, the
+leader of the Roman Catholic party, made a memorable speech. The dozen
+great electric lights depending from the ceiling were extinguished
+when the early afternoon sun faintly struggled with the clouds for
+entrance through the skylight which forms the entire roof of the room,
+except those left burning near the seats of Bismarck and Von Moltke,
+which brought these foremost figures into strong relief. Prince
+William--now Emperor--and the gentlemen of his party were in gay
+uniforms in the Imperial box, and the diplomatic box was lighted
+mainly by the diamonds of the ladies who sat there; while the crowded
+ranks of the other galleries were in dim twilight. It was a picture to
+remain in history. The bill was lost. In less than twenty-four hours
+after we left the Reichstag, Bismarck had read his summary dissolution
+of the Diet, and before another sunset the hall was closed and silent.
+The Iron Chancellor had made his appeal to the country. The war-cloud
+was heavy over Europe, and great was the excitement in Berlin. Under
+fear of a bolt which might strike at any moment, the elections for a
+new Chamber were held, and Bismarck had his will.
+
+The Reichstag is the representative body of the whole German Empire,
+with its four kingdoms, six grand duchies, and sixteen lesser
+principalities and powers united under one emperor. Prussia is a
+kingdom which forms but one, though the most important, of these
+constituent parts. The Reichstag is a kind of Upper and Lower House in
+one; the Bundesrath or Federal Council, with somewhat arbitrary
+powers, has its private Council-room; but the Chancellor of the Empire
+is its presiding officer, and, with the members of this Council,
+occupies the elevated platform at the right of the President of the
+Reichstag. The chief function of the latter as a legal Chamber of
+Deputies is to check the power of the Bundesrath. It can thus reject
+bills and refuse appropriations, but has no power to bring about a
+change of administration.
+
+The Prussian Diet is composed of two separate houses. The building of
+the Lower House--the Abgeordnetenhaus--is near the eastern extremity
+of the Leipziger Strasse, and the House of Lords--Herrenhaus--is
+adjacent to the Reichstag-Gebaude. The Prussian Lower House is
+somewhat larger in numbers than the Reichstag, and is of course an
+elective body. It contained a number of eminent men,--as Herr
+Windhorst, also the leader of the Catholic party in the Reichstag,
+and Professor Virchow. On the day of our visit no business of special
+importance was before the assembly, and visitors' tickets were
+obtained with an ease in pleasing contrast to the most difficult feat
+of obtaining entrance to the Reichstag on a great occasion.
+
+The House of Lords is reputed a dull place, and is seldom visited. In
+a dwelling formerly occupying this site (No. 3 Leipziger Strasse), and
+of which some memorials remain, Felix Mendelssohn spent, with his
+parents and sister Fanny, several years of his wonderful youth; and
+the "Gartenhaus" of this estate witnessed the memorable private
+performance of the work which first revealed his greatness to the
+world,--the "Overture to the Midsummer Night's Dream."
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+PROMINENT PERSONAGES.
+
+
+"I love my Emperor," said "our little Fräulein," laying her hand on
+her heart, one day when we were talking of him.
+
+It was on our first day in Germany that we, returning from church a
+little after noon, were kindly greeted by an American lady who saw
+that we were strangers. "The Emperor lives on this street," she said;
+"and if we hasten, we may see him when he comes to the window to
+review his Guards." Soon we were before the palace on Unter den
+Linden, a substantial-looking building facing the north, with an
+eastern exposure. The Imperial standard was floating over the palace,
+denoting the presence of his Majesty. The room on the ground floor,
+northeast corner, of the palace is the one used by Emperor William I.
+as his study; and one back of this was his bedroom, containing the
+simple iron cot which was the companion of his soldier days, and which
+remained the couch of his choice to the end of life. At "the historic
+window" we often saw him. Every day at noon, and sometimes long
+before, the crowd began to gather in the street opposite this window,
+for a sight of his Majesty when he came for a moment to review his
+Guards at a quarter to one. It was touching to see the devotion of the
+people, standing patiently in all weathers; mothers and fathers
+holding up their children that they might catch a sight of the
+idolized Kaiser. Rarely did he disappoint them. As the military music
+of the guard drew near, and the tramp of the soldiers fell on the
+pavement before the palace, the aged man would appear at the window in
+full uniform of dark blue with scarlet trimmings and silver
+epaulettes, returning the salutations of the guard, and bowing and
+waving his white-gloved hand to the people, then retiring within the
+shadow of the lace curtains. Sometimes the cheering broke forth anew
+as he was lost to sight, and the welkin was made to ring with the
+Kaiser-song, or some hymn of Fatherland, until he indulgently appeared
+again, bowing his bald head, his kindly face lighted up with a smile.
+In full-front view he did not look like a man in his ninetieth year.
+Many a man of sixty-five or seventy looks older. When he turned, the
+side view revealed that his form was not erect; but only when he
+walked with a slow movement could one realize that this soldier of
+perfect drill--this courtly gentleman--was one who had seen almost a
+century of life. His earliest memories were of privation and hardship.
+In his young boyhood the First Napoleon held Berlin in his grasp, and
+the family of the King, Frederick William III., fled to Königsberg.
+The beautiful and noble Queen Louise and her two little boys,
+afterwards Frederick William IV. and William I., wandered at one time
+in the forests, and made their food of wild berries. They amused
+themselves by making wreaths of _cornblumen_,--blue flowers answering
+closely to our "bachelors' buttons,"--which grow wild everywhere in
+Germany. Thenceforward the _cornblumen_ were dear to the young
+princes, and they were "the Emperor's flowers" to the end of his
+Imperial life. So devoted was he to the memory of his mother, that
+when in his later years he saw a young girl whose striking beauty of
+face and form reminded him of Queen Louise, he persuaded her to allow
+her portrait to be taken, that it might remind him of the mother whom
+he remembered in her youth. This beautiful portrait is bought, by many
+Germans even, as that of Queen Louise, and may be known by a star over
+the forehead. The finest actual portrait of this Queen which we saw
+was, at the time of our visit, in the Old Schloss at Berlin, and
+showed a mature and lovely woman, every inch a queen. The exquisite
+reposing statue, by Rauch, in the Mausoleum at Charlottenburg, over
+her grave, is well known by copies.
+
+The life led by the aged Emperor was simple and methodical to the
+last. Rising at half-past seven, he breakfasted, looked over his
+letters and papers, and was ready by nine or half-past nine to begin
+his reception of officials or other callers, which lasted till after
+midday. After lunch, he usually drove for an hour or so in the
+afternoon, often accompanied by a single aid, bowing right and left to
+the populace, who thronged for a look and a smile. His plain military
+cloak enveloped him in cold or rainy weather, and his was often one of
+the plainest equipages on the brilliant street. "I do not think," said
+General Grant, after having visited the Emperor, "that I ever saw a
+more perfect type of a soldier and a man. His Majesty went off into
+military affairs. I was anxious to change the subject, as I had no
+interest in the technical matters of war. But the Emperor held me to
+the one theme, and we spoke of nothing else. I fancied Bismarck
+sympathized with me, and would have gladly gone off on other subjects,
+but it was of no use. The manner of Bismarck toward the Emperor was
+beautiful,--absolute devotion and respect. This was my one long talk
+with the Emperor. I should call him the embodiment of courage, candor,
+dignity, and simplicity; a strikingly handsome man."
+
+Sometimes the Kaiser would hold up to the palace window his eldest
+great-grandson, now Crown Prince, then a beautiful child of four or
+five years; and the little fellow would go through his military salute
+of the passing guard with great gravity and propriety, while the
+huzzas of the crowd burst forth with renewed zeal. This child was the
+favorite of the aged Emperor, and sometimes took liberties with his
+great-grandsire which would hardly have been tolerated from any one
+else. If it was touching to see the devotion of the people to their
+Emperor, it was no less so to see how he trusted himself with them. He
+could remember when, with the revolutionary spirit of 1848, the mob in
+the streets of Berlin had so insulted him, a prince, that he had fled
+for a time from his country. But that he had forgiven and they had
+forgotten long ago. The times had "changed all that." Now he lived
+daily in sight of the people, with only a pane of glass for a shield.
+He loved his people, and they worshipped him with no temporary
+oblations. One of the last occasions in which we saw him in public was
+that of the spring manoeuvres in the last May-time of his long life.
+
+Some distance south of the Halle gate, the large and finely situated
+"Tempelhofer Feld" extends to the suburban village of Tempelhof, which
+was once the property of the Knights of Malta, and which still bears
+their cross and inscription on its church bells. The intervening
+ground has been devoted to the annual parades of the Berlin garrison
+for more than a hundred years. It has ample room for evolutions of
+infantry, artillery, and cavalry, but a comparatively small space is
+devoted to the accommodation of spectators. Only about three hundred
+carriages can be admitted, and these are distributed among royal
+personages, officials, and a limited number of distinguished or
+fortunate visitors. Our application for a carriage place was duly
+filed with the chief of the Berlin police a month or six weeks in
+advance of the parade, but, after long waiting, word came that there
+was no room. By the courtesy and special thoughtfulness of Secretary
+Crosby, of the United States Legation, a carriage ticket was placed at
+our disposal, after all hope of obtaining the coveted privilege had
+been abandoned.
+
+The German Emperor can place, if need be, nearly three million trained
+soldiers in the field. All able-bodied Germans are liable to service,
+with few exceptions, from the age of twenty to that of thirty-two, and
+can in exceptional circumstances be called out up to the age of
+forty-two. But the German youth spends only the first three years, of
+his twelve of liability, with the colors, the remaining nine being
+spent in different branches of the reserve forces. The effective force
+in time of peace is about half a million, which is distributed
+through the Empire in seventeen army corps, of which the Third has its
+headquarters at Berlin. The ordinary strength of an army corps is
+about thirty thousand, including infantry, cavalry, and artillery; but
+the garrison of Berlin and various extra and unattached troops bring
+the number up to fifty thousand or more, stationed mostly in Berlin
+and Potsdam. These have their spring manoeuvres at Berlin; and the
+special parade, for which every day for two months beforehand seemed
+parade-day in the streets of Berlin, was that for which we were so
+fortunate as to receive tickets. Nearly every day for a week previous,
+his Majesty was to be seen, in his low two-horse carriage, passing
+through the Unter den Linden and south through Friedrich Strasse, to
+the parade-ground. On this grand and final parade-day the three
+hundred carriages of the privileged spectators were in good time on
+the ground assigned them, prepared to welcome the Emperor and the
+Imperial party as loyally as the soldiers themselves. A deafening
+hurrah burst from the throats of all, as his Majesty appeared in a
+carriage and drove to his post of observation. Many of his princely
+retinue, both ladies and gentlemen, were on horseback; and it was
+formerly his custom to review the troops, mounted on his black
+war-horse. In spite of a piercing wind which swept over the wide
+Brandenburg plains, we hugged our warm wraps, and stood in our
+carriages, like all the rest, in eager watchfulness and admiration, as
+the evolutions of the most perfectly drilled troops in the world went
+forward. The infantry marched and countermarched; plumes of all colors
+waved in the sunlight and kept time to the music; uniforms and men
+seemed but part of one grand incomprehensible automatic movement;
+battle-flags scarred with the history of all the wars fluttered their
+tattered shreds in the wind, waking memories of irrepressible pathos
+and joy; the artillery rumbled and thundered; the evolutions of the
+cavalry were like systematic whirlwinds; and the scarlet Zouaves, the
+blue Dragoons, the white-uniformed and gilt-helmeted Cuirassiers, and
+the dark Uhlands with lances ten feet long poised in air above their
+prancing horses, commingled the "pomp and circumstance of war" without
+its pain. Now the infantry come on at double quick, in the step with
+which they entered Paris; now the artillery is lumbered across a vast
+stretch of the field with a rapidity and precision which almost take
+away one's breath; and anon the cavalry seem to burst in orderly
+confusion upon the scene, flying in competition, across, around,
+athwart, until the cheers and huzzas burst forth anew with, "Hail to
+the Kaiser!" "Long live the Fatherland!" It was with joy that the
+soldiers received the commendations of their Imperial chieftain on
+that field-day, and it was to us a fitting place and moment of
+farewell to the great military Emperor.
+
+"King, the Saxon Konnig," says Carlyle,--"the man who CAN." And
+Emperor William I. was the man who _could_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Fritz, dear Fritz," were the last words of the aged Emperor. "Unser
+Fritz" was the well-beloved elder brother of the German people. If any
+doubt as to the real feeling among the South-Germans toward the
+Imperial house had existed in our minds, it was removed as we
+journeyed through Saxony, Bavaria, Würtemberg, Darmstadt, Thuringia.
+Everywhere, in humble homes, in shops, hotels, and market-places, were
+the likenesses of the handsome Kaiser and the open, sincere, manly
+countenance of the Crown Prince to be seen. In Berlin the Crown Prince
+occupied the palace directly east of that of the Kaiser, separated
+from it only by the Operahaus Platz. We had heard him called "the
+handsomest man in Europe." Our study of his kindly face from
+photographs had revealed manliness enough, but nothing more to justify
+this epithet. But as one came to be familiar with his look, his
+figure, his bearing, there was full assent to his being called, in
+appearance, "the finest gentleman in Europe." The titles and tokens of
+honor that had been showered upon him, and which he wore so
+gracefully, were his least claims to distinction. He was as great in
+true nobility of soul as he was exalted in station, as symmetrical in
+character as he was regal in bearing. When he mated with the Princess
+Royal of England, he was not even Crown Prince of Prussia, and some of
+the English papers asserted that the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria
+had married beneath her. But this opinion was easily dissipated, as
+the years brought, with increasing honors, development of manly
+virtues and graces. A hero in the wars in which his country had
+engaged before he reached middle life, and with all the courage of his
+Hohenzollern blood, he yet delighted in peace, and was a most humane
+and liberal statesman. That thirst for liberty which is quenchless in
+the human breast, and which has had as yet small satisfaction in
+Teutonic lands, seemed to find sympathy in this enlightened Prince. At
+the age of thirty he became the heir apparent to the Prussian Crown,
+when the new king, his father, had reached the age of sixty-four. When
+he was forty, and his father was proclaimed Emperor of Germany at the
+age of seventy-four, Frederick became heir to the Imperial throne. A
+most careful and liberal education, grafted on a genial and wise
+character, had fitted him to watch the course of events in which,
+according to the course of nature, he might be expected so soon to
+take chief part. But the years which made his sire venerable passed,
+and still he had no opportunity to shape public affairs. Absolutism
+feared his influence and that of his liberal and strong-minded English
+wife. The prime of life was his; but his best years were behind and
+not before him as at the age of fifty-five he filially and devotedly
+filled his own place, the loved and loving son of his Imperial father,
+whose trusted representative he was on all courtly occasions, the
+model husband and father, the accomplished and interested patron of
+art and letters, the polished gentleman, the benevolent and devout
+Christian. During his last winter of health (1886-1887) he was often
+to be seen among the people. Accompanied by the Crown Princess and
+their three unmarried daughters, he walked out and in, along the Unter
+den Linden, an interested participator, like any other father of a
+family, in the Christmas shopping. On one of the culminating days of
+the great Reichstag debate, it was Prince William who was seen in the
+Imperial box in the Parliament House, while "Unser Fritz" with wife
+and daughters were skaters among the crowds on the ice-ponds of the
+Thiergarten. This by no means indicated indifference to great
+questions of public concern. None knew better the issue, the times,
+and the need. But, standing all his mature life with his foot on the
+threshold of a throne, with talents and training fitting him to do
+honor to his royal line, to his Fatherland, and to the brotherhood of
+kings in all lands and ages, he yet knew that while the father
+reigned, it was not for the son to reign. He was to bide his time.
+Alas! an inscrutable Providence made that time to be crowned only with
+the halo of a dawning immortality, a time in which strength and peace
+were to be radiated from one anointed by the chrism of pain, and
+whose diadem was to shine, not among the treasures of earth, but as
+the stars for ever and ever. When the messenger of the fallen Napoleon
+III. had brought his unexpected surrender after Sedan, and the flush
+of startling victory had mantled even the cheek of the pale and
+reticent Von Moltke, had shaken the leonine composure of Bismarck, and
+affected the heroic William I. almost to tears, the courtly Frederick
+forgot himself and the victory of the cause he had helped to win, in
+sympathy for the vanquished foe. The embarrassed general who brought
+the surrender of the French had Frederick's instant devotion, and
+those first moments of deep humiliation were soothed by the
+conversation of the Crown Prince and by kind attentions which all
+others forgot to render. With a truth and devotion to his country
+which could never be doubted or questioned, he yet had a heart "so
+much at leisure from itself" that in the supremest moments of life he
+sympathized with friend and foe, as only regal souls can do.
+
+I saw this foremost prince of Europe in the nineteenth century always
+and increasingly to admire him, whether in the largest or the
+smallest relations of life; whether as royal host entertaining the
+sovereigns of Europe and their representatives when that magnificent
+assemblage came to greet the ninetieth birthday of his father; dashing
+on horseback through the streets of the capital and the riding-paths
+of the park; saluting with stately grace his Imperial sire, as he
+alone entered the place where the Emperor sat; handing the Crown
+Princess to her seat, or going down on his knees to find her Imperial
+Highness's misplaced footstool in her pew at church; accompanying his
+daughters to places of public amusement and looking upon them with
+manly tenderness; or standing with military helmet before his face in
+silent prayer, as he entered the house of God to worship before the
+King of kings.
+
+My last sight of his Imperial Highness was on one of the latest
+occasions of his public appearance in Berlin while in health, in
+connection with one of those opportunities of hearing grand music in
+which this city excels the rest of the world. It was that most
+devotional music ever written,--Bach's Passion Music, rendered once a
+year, on the evening of Good Friday, in the Sing Akademie of Berlin.
+There was a trained chorus of about four hundred voices, with the
+best orchestra in the city, besides solo singers of repute,--one, a
+charming alto from Cologne. The simple and touching narrative of the
+Betrayal and the Crucifixion was sung as it is written in the
+twenty-sixth and twenty-seventh chapters of Matthew, certain phrases
+and sentences repeated and adapted to the music, but none of it
+essentially changed in form. One of the bass soloists took, with the
+tenor, the soprano and the alto alternating, most of the narrative;
+and another bass solo took the words of Jesus, whenever these occur in
+the sad story. The _arias_ and _recitatives_ were finely given, but no
+effect was comparable to that of the grand chorus. The single word
+"Barabbas!" sung, or rather shouted, by these hundreds of voices in
+perfect time and tune, was overwhelming. Another passage of most
+thrilling effect was that in which every instrument and every voice
+joined in the deafening but harmonious description of the multitude
+who went out with swords and staves in the midnight, to take the
+unoffending Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane. And one could almost
+hear in the music the sobbing of Peter when, after his denial of the
+Lord, "he went out and wept bitterly." Another most touching passage
+was that representing the love of the woman who anointed the feet of
+Jesus. When the shout of the multitude arose in the words "Crucify
+Him!" the awfulness was intense. There were times when the audience
+scarcely seemed to breathe freely, so strong was the spell, so vivid
+the reality of this saddest and most touching of narratives, as
+interpreted by this wonderful music. Never but once have I heard the
+perfection of choral music. It was one of the grand and solemn ancient
+hymn-tunes which are introduced at certain stages of this composition.
+I closed my eyes to the brilliance of the scene before me, that the
+ear might be the sole avenue of impression. Not the slightest jar or
+dissonance revealed any difference in the four hundred voices speaking
+as one; there seemed but one great soul pouring forth the vast volume
+of the harmony. The mighty cadences rose and fell, breaking in waves
+of sound against walls and roof, and must have floated far out into
+the night, now soaring in triumph, now sweet and soft and low as the
+tones of an Eolian harp; but the voice of hundreds was only as the
+voice of one. Three hours and more, with one brief intermission, we
+listened, and lived as it were those last sad hours of the Life so
+sacred and so majestic, so unutterably full of love. The end came,
+when the stone was rolled against the sealed door of the sepulchre,
+and the Roman watch was set. No hint of a resurrection was in the
+music; but the singers sang, in closing, again and again, in varying
+strains, "Good-night, good-night, dear Jesus!"
+
+The audience, moved as it seemed by a common impulse, joined in that
+last song. The Crown Prince, with the Crown Princess and their
+daughters, and the Princess Christian, then on a visit to Berlin, were
+in the royal box in the concert-room. With his family and his royal
+visitors, Frederick, his voice already in the penumbra of a dim,
+unknown, unforeseen, but fateful shadow, took up the strain. "He sang
+it through," said a friend to me, who knew him well, "and I could see
+that he was deeply touched." There we left the story, as almost
+nineteen hundred years ago it was left, on that Friday evening in
+Jerusalem, with the full light of the Paschal moon falling on the
+closed and silent tomb, in the garden of Joseph of Arimathea.
+
+Two days later, on the evening of Easter Sunday, the Crown Prince
+united in the service of the English Church, with his family, in
+celebrating the joyous anniversary of a sure resurrection, and during
+the same week left Berlin in quest of rest and health. He came not
+back until, before another Good Friday, "Unser Fritz" was Emperor of
+Germany, and already walking through the Valley of that Shadow in
+which he sorrowfully sung of his "dear Jesus," one short year before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Various estimates have been made of the talents and character of the
+third of the three German Emperors of the year 1888, but the record
+and the proof of all prophecies concerning William II. have yet to be
+made. As Prince William we saw him with best opportunity in the
+Imperial box at the Reichstag, where for three hours he listened
+intently to the speeches of Bismarck, Von Moltke, and others. A fair
+young man, in the heavily ornamented light blue uniform of his
+regiment, to a casual observer his countenance bore neither the marks
+of dissipation nor the signs of intellectual power and force of
+character. But he was only in the late twenties, and "there is time
+yet." He is the idol of the army, and the devoted friend of Bismarck.
+Not one of all the great concourse of dignitaries at the celebration
+of the ninetieth birthday of William I. received such shouts of
+adulation from the populace as those which rent the air when the State
+carriage passed which bore the Prince and Princess William and their
+three little sons. Of the Princess William, now Empress Augusta
+Victoria, there was but one opinion. "None will ever know the blessing
+which the Princess William has been to our family," once said her
+father-in-law, the Crown Prince Frederick. From the throne to the hut,
+blessings followed her, a Christian lady, in faithfulness as wife,
+mother, friend, and princess, worthy of her exalted place. At a
+lawn-party given for the benefit of the Young Men's Christian
+Association, in the magnificent old park of the War Department in the
+heart of Berlin, Prince and Princess William were present. The
+Princess walked up and down, chatting now with one lady, now with
+another, in attire so simple that the plainest there could feel no
+unpleasant contrast, and in manner so beautiful and genial that we
+could forget the princess in admiration of the unassuming lady.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Of the Empress Frederick much has been said, and much invented, since
+the days when she left England, a bride of seventeen, to make her
+home in a foreign land.
+
+"Is the Crown Princess popular?" I said to a young German lady, in the
+early days of our residence in Berlin.
+
+"Not very."
+
+"She is strong-minded, is she not?"
+
+"Yes, too strong," replied the lady.
+
+Perhaps the Crown Princess Victoria did not sufficiently disguise the
+broad difference between her birthright as the heir of the thought and
+feeling of her distinguished father, "Prince Albert the Good," and the
+low plane still habitual to many German women. She has always been an
+Englishwoman; and this was the chief charge I ever heard against her,
+in my endeavor to reach the real statement of the case. And yet all
+agree that she has been devoted to the best interests of the German
+people. Everywhere in humane, benevolent, and educational work, we
+found the impress of her guiding hand. A German lady, of rare ability,
+sweetness, and culture, was one day giving me the pathetic story of
+her hopes and efforts for the elevation and education of her
+country-women. In the course of the conversation she was led to quote
+a remark made to her by the Crown Princess: "You must _form the
+character_ of the German women, before you can do much to elevate
+them." Is not this in keeping with the profound practical wisdom
+which, notwithstanding the puerilities and small femininities which
+abound in some of the published writings of England's royal family,
+makes their pages still worth the reading, and lets us into the secret
+of the true womanliness which, despite all blemishes and foibles,
+Victoria, Empress Queen of England, has instilled into the mind of her
+daughter Victoria, Empress Dowager of Germany. There is hope for
+womankind, when "the fierce light which beats upon a throne" shows
+naught to mar the purity of the home-life which has adorned the
+palaces and the courts of Germany and of England, so far as these have
+been under the influence of the two Victorias.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"When you say 'Germany,'" said our "little Fräulein" to us one day,
+"nobody is afraid; when you say 'Bismarck,' everybody trembles."
+Reports about the ill health of the Iron Chancellor were, two or three
+years ago, possibly exaggerated, but doubtless they had some
+foundation in fact. Previous to the great debate on the Army Bill, it
+had been said that his physical health was a mere wreck. No sign of
+this appeared, however, when we saw the great Diplomatist in his seat
+in the Reichstag on that memorable occasion. His speech, though
+occasional cadences lapsed into indistinctness in that hall of poor
+acoustic properties, was in the main easily heard in all parts of the
+house. The yellow military collar of his dark blue coat showed his
+pallid face not to advantage, but that fierce look was unsubdued, the
+broad brow loomed above eyes before which one instinctively quails,
+and the pose and movements were those of vigorous health. Every
+afternoon in the ensuing spring, his stout square-shouldered figure
+might be seen, in military uniform and with sword rattling in its
+scabbard, accompanied by a single aid, on horseback, trotting through
+the shaded riding-paths of the Thiergarten,--for the sake of health,
+doubtless, but evidently with no little pleasure. On his birthday in
+April he received, at his palace in the Wilhelm Strasse, the greetings
+of his regiment, to whom he distributed wine and cake and mementos,
+and also saw many other friends. At his country-seats in Pomerania and
+Lauensburg most of his time is spent, divided between the cares of
+State and the enjoyments of a rustic life. On the occasion referred to
+in the Parliament, speaking of the Army Bill which the Opposition
+professed a willingness to grant for three years but not for seven, he
+said, "Three years hence, I may hope to be here; in seven, I shall be
+above all this misery." The three years have not yet passed. For the
+glory of Germany, many will hope that twice seven may find the name of
+Bismarck still inspiring with dread the enemies of his country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+General Von Moltke, the Grant of Germany, might often be seen, by
+those who knew when and where to look for him, in plain dress, walking
+along Unter den Linden, or through the city edge of the Thiergarten,
+near the building of the General Staff, of which he was long the Chief
+and where he lives. This most eminent student of the art of war lives
+a seemingly lonely life since the death of his wife, whose portrait is
+said to be the chief adornment of his private room. He is fond of
+music, and an open piano is his close companion in hours of leisure.
+His plain carriage is seen but seldom by sojourners in Berlin. His
+words need not to be many to be weighty, and his influence was great
+with Emperor William I. and Crown Prince Frederick, whose tutor he had
+been. No scene after the death of Frederick III. was more affecting
+than Von Moltke in tears over his bier. "Never before," said an
+officer who had long known the great general, "have I seen Von Moltke
+so broken up."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+General Von Waldersee has, by the recent retirement of Von Moltke,
+become Chief of the German Army Staff. The Countess Von Waldersee,
+closely related by her first marriage to the present Empress, is a
+devout Christian lady, an American by birth, and has much influence in
+the German Court. Her most romantic history is known to many since,
+the daughter of a wealthy New York merchant, she went abroad some
+twenty-five years ago, met and married a wealthy Schleswig-Holstein
+baron, by which marriage she became related to more than one royal
+house in Europe; was soon left a youthful widow with great wealth, and
+after a few years, in which she maintained the estate and title of an
+Austrian Princess also bequeathed her by her first husband, married
+the German nobleman who is now the head of the German army. She is
+devoted to her home, her husband and children, and to quiet ways of
+doing good. Her dazzling history is her least claim on the interest of
+American women. A noble character, devoted consistently in her high
+station to the service of God and to even the humblest good of her
+fellow-creatures, gives regal lustre to her name, which is a synonym
+for goodness to all who know her.
+
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+THE NINETIETH BIRTHDAY OF EMPEROR WILLIAM.
+
+
+To those who are fond of pageants and who linger lovingly with past
+ages, such a spectacle as Berlin witnessed on the 22d of March, 1887,
+must have extraordinary attractions. Never in the long life of the
+aged Emperor, whose ninetieth birthday it was, had there been in
+splendor a rival to that day, although his whole career was prolific
+of great scenes and dramatic situations. Eighty-five royal personages
+had accepted the invitation to visit the Emperor on that occasion; and
+they came in person, or sent special envoys, each accompanied by a
+more or less imposing retinue. As guests of the Imperial family, they
+were lodged in the various palaces of Berlin and Potsdam, and
+entertained with most thoughtful and sumptuous hospitality. The
+arrivals began on Friday, March 18, and continued through the three
+following days, until the list included the Prince of Wales; the Crown
+Prince of Austria; the Grand Duke and Duchess Vladimir and the Grand
+Duke Michel of Russia; the Crown Prince and Princess of Sweden; the
+King and Queen of Roumania; the King and Queen of Saxony; the Prince
+and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein; the Grand Duke of Hesse
+and his daughter the Princess Irene; the Grand Duchess of Baden; the
+Duke of Saxe-Meiningen; the Hereditary Prince and Princess of
+Mecklenburg-Strelitz; the Duke of Waldeck-Pyrmont, father of the Queen
+of the Netherlands and the Duchess of Albany; the Dowager Grand
+Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin; the Grand Duchess Marie, and a host
+of other royal notables. Costly presents and beautiful flowers had
+been pouring in to the Emperor for days before, from the members of
+his own large family, the various diplomatic corps, from royal
+friends, from learned societies, industrial and philanthropic
+associations, with gifts from China, Turkey, and other distant
+countries. Many of the presents were arranged in a room in the
+Kaiser's palace, the centre-piece being a portrait of his favorite and
+eldest great-grandson painted by the Crown Princess, and surrounded by
+an elegant display of flowers. This palace was reserved for the calls
+of the distinguished guests, and for a State dinner of a hundred
+covers, given to the visiting royalties on the eve of the birthday by
+the Emperor and Empress. The palace of the Crown Prince was decorated
+about the entrance with palms and other exotics. Here the Crown
+Princess entertained the Prince of Wales and the Princess Christian
+with her family,--three children of Queen Victoria under the same
+roof. The Grand Duchess of Baden, only daughter of the Emperor, was
+entertained in the Dutch Palace, connected with the Emperor's by a
+corridor. One of those dramatic touches in real life of which Emperor
+William was fond, was the betrothal of the Princess Irene, daughter of
+the Grand Duke of Hesse and the late Princess Alice of England, to her
+cousin Prince Henry, second son of the Crown Prince. It was announced
+by the Emperor on his birthday, standing in the midst of the assembled
+family, with the foreign princes grouped in a semicircle around, the
+bride-elect leaning on her father's arm and blushingly receiving the
+congratulations of all present. In the two days preceding his
+birthday, the Emperor received not only his royal visitors, but the
+representatives of Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Servia, Japan, and China.
+The Old Schloss, with its six hundred apartments and reception-rooms,
+was used for the entertainment of royal guests. All the sunny south
+windows facing the Schloss Platz rejoiced for days beforehand in open
+draperies and freshly cleaned plate glass, giving an unwonted look of
+cheer and human habitableness to the majestic and venerable pile
+through which we had walked, a few weeks before, with hushed voices
+and muffled footsteps, gazing on the rich decorations of the public
+rooms, the glittering candelabra, the silver balustrades, the ancient
+plate, the historic paintings and monuments which recall past
+centuries and vanished sovereigns.
+
+But the streets witnessed the most memorable scenes. On the eve of the
+birthday a torchlight procession of more than six thousand students
+represented the Universities of Berlin, Bonn, Heidelberg, Jena,
+Königsberg, Leipzig, Marburg, Munich, Strasburg, and others; the
+Polytechnic Schools of Berlin, Brunswick, Darmstadt, Dresden, Hanover,
+Karlsruhe, and Stuttgardt; the Mining Academies of Berlin, Clausthal,
+and Freiberg; and the Agricultural Schools of Berlin, Eberswalde, and
+Tharandt. Opposite the Imperial Palace stands the University,--formerly
+the palace of Prince Henry,--amid old trees and gardens, and with the
+fine colossal statues of the brothers Humboldt in white marble, sitting
+on massive pedestals on either side the main gateway. This was the
+starting-point of the great procession, which was led by two mounted
+students in the garb of Wallenstein's soldiers. Five abreast the
+torch-bearers approached the Emperor's palace, and before his windows
+the Ziethen Hussars wheeled in and out in mystic evolutions. A
+labyrinthine series of movements, marked in the darkness only by the
+flaming torches, was executed in perfect silence; then a simple hymn of
+the Middle Ages was sung with singular effect by these thousands of
+young and manly voices; and from the silence which succeeded, at the
+call of a student standing in the midst and waving his sword above his
+head, there arose a "Three cheers for the Emperor!" while six thousand
+torches swung to and fro, and hundreds of flags and ancient banners
+waved in the evening air. Again there was silence, when one struck the
+National Anthem, which was sung with all heads uncovered, the aged hero
+bowing low at his window in acknowledgment until emotion obliged him to
+withdraw. An incident soon on every tongue was the Emperor's sending
+for a deputation of the students to wait on him, his kind reception of
+and conversation with them, and their elation at the honor,
+notwithstanding their mortification at the contrast of the smoke-soiled
+hands and faces of the torch-bearers with the brilliance of the
+Imperial chamber and the full dress of distinguished visitors. Leaving
+the Emperor's palace, the procession passed through Unter den Linden
+and the Brandenburg Gate to the Thiergarten, where amid a dense and
+surging throng the students threw their burning torches in a heap and
+sang over the expiring flames, "Gaudeamus igitur juvenes dum sumus."
+Deputies from all the Universities, dressed in black velvet coats, high
+boots, and plumed hats, and bearing fine swords, brought up the rear of
+the procession in thirty carriages, with the flags of the old German
+towns and Universities floating above them. I watched this torchlight
+procession from a second-story window-seat on Unter den Linden, and was
+much impressed with the general view, extending from the equestrian
+statue of Frederick the Great before the Emperor's palace, where the
+entire area was filled with reflected light, for nearly a mile to the
+Brandenburg Gate, the various forms of the waving torches on the long
+line seeming the very apotheosis of flame. Many of the young men were
+dressed in the picturesque taste peculiar to German students. Gay
+feathers and unique caps set off to advantage the fine features and
+fair complexions which render some of the students remarkable, though
+the faces are too often disfigured by tell-tale sabre-cuts. After the
+passing of the procession, we drove through a portion of the Potsdamer
+Strasse where the lamps were rather infrequent and the overarching
+branches of the trees shut out the starlight from the handsome street.
+Crowds were hurrying to and fro,--but to this we had become
+accustomed,--when suddenly we met a company of mounted students
+returning from the park. In white wigs and high-peaked caps,
+close-fitting white suits embroidered with gold, brilliant sashes, and
+top-boots, they looked, in the dim light, like knights of the Middle
+Ages returning from some quest or tournament; and as they slowly filed
+by, bowing to the greetings of the passers, it was hard to believe for
+the moment that they were other than they seemed.
+
+The morning of the birthday dawned bright and beautiful. "Emperor's
+weather this," the Germans fondly said. Before we left our
+breakfast-room the sound of chimes was calling all the children of the
+city to the churches for their share of the celebration. From my
+window I saw at one time three large processions of children passing
+in different directions through diverging streets. All were marshalled
+by teachers from the public schools in strictest order, and with fine
+brass bands playing choral music as they entered the church. Here the
+pastor, after prayer, addressed the children on the blessings of peace
+and the life of the good Emperor, and the children sang, as only
+German children can, the patriotic songs of their country. No more
+touching sight was seen that day than these thousands of boys and
+girls passing into the churches, with the sound of solemn music, to
+thank God for the blessings of Fatherland and Emperor,--a scene which
+caused tears to roll down the cheeks of many a spectator. It will be
+hard to uproot German patriotism while its future fathers and mothers
+are thus trained.
+
+While the children were marching, another procession was also passing,
+composed of the magistrates and city officials, going to the Nicolai
+Kirche (the oldest church in Berlin) for a similar service. Every one
+was astir early, and before ten o'clock a dense crowd filled the
+streets. Horses, omnibuses, and tram-cars were garlanded and decorated
+with flags, and the house fronts were bewildering in color and
+decorations. The double-headed eagle, signifying in the heraldry of
+Germany the Empire of Charlemagne and that of the Cæsars, was
+everywhere intermingled with the German tri-color of red, white, and
+black, with the black and white of Prussia, the green of Saxony, the
+blue of Bavaria, and the orange, purple, and other colors of the
+various principalities and powers of the German Empire; hardly a house
+lacking some brilliant flutter of symbolic colors. Only an American in
+a foreign land can know how welcome was the sight of "the stars and
+stripes" floating majestically from two or three points on the route;
+though in one case it was flanked by the crescent and star of the
+Turkish Empire, and in another contrasted with the blue dragon on a
+yellow ground which formed the triangular flag of China. Miles of
+business thoroughfares showed glittering and artistic arrangements in
+the shop windows; nearly every one having its picture, bust, or statue
+of the Emperor,--some with most elaborate and expensive designs.
+Between ten and eleven A.M. the deputations from the Universities
+passed through Unter den Linden, making a daylight parade but little
+inferior to that of the evening before. The dense throng immediately
+closed in after the procession, but by great efforts the mounted
+police cleared a passage for the State carriages to the palace of the
+Emperor. At eleven o'clock a magnificent royal carriage drew up at the
+palace of the Crown Prince, who entered it, accompanied by the Crown
+Princess and two daughters. They proceeded to the presence of the
+Emperor, to offer the first congratulations. Next came a carriage
+whose splendid accompaniments eclipsed all others. Preceded by a
+mounted herald in scarlet and silver, on a mettled and caparisoned
+steed, and by other outriders in the same glittering fashion, came the
+carriage, surmounted by silver crowns, drawn by six horses; carriage,
+steeds, coachman, and footmen in shining livery and flowing plumes. At
+the door of the Crown Prince's palace the stout figure of the Prince
+of Wales, in comparatively plain attire, stepped into this coach; a
+lady was handed in after him, and the splendid equipage rolled toward
+the Emperor's palace, amid the cheers of the multitude. From the Old
+Schloss, a succession of royal carriages passed in the same direction,
+all glittering in silver and gold and flowing with plumes, many with
+four or six horses; until fully fifty State carriages had deposited
+their occupants at the palace of the Kaiser, and awaited, in the fine
+open spaces around the famous equestrian statue of Frederick the
+Great, the return of royalty from its congratulations to the venerable
+object of all this attention. Many of the royal visitors were known by
+sight to the crowd, as Berlin sees much of royalty; but many were not.
+The cheering was not enthusiastic, except in special cases. "Who is
+that?" said one near me, as a splendid carriage passed. "I do not
+know," replied another man; "it is only one of those kings." But when
+the Crown Prince Frederick returned from his call, "This is something
+else," said the proud German heart; and the cheers were deafening. The
+greatest enthusiasm of the day was shown when Prince William and his
+family passed, in the most striking equipage of all, except that of
+the Prince of Wales. It was a State carriage of the time of Frederick
+the Great, its decorations of gold on a dark body; a large, low
+vehicle whose glass windows revealed the occupants on every side. Six
+Pomeranian brown steeds of high mettle were guided by the skilful
+driver, horses and outriders being splendidly caparisoned in light
+blue and silver. Rudolph, Crown Prince of Austria, solitary in his
+carriage, received his share of attention, as did the Russian Grand
+Dukes and Grand Duchess, the fine-looking King and Queen of Saxony,
+the Prince-Regent of Bavaria with his two sons of ten and twelve, and
+the Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, venerable sister of the Emperor.
+The Queen of Roumania bowed to the throng with utmost grace, smiling
+and showing her brilliant teeth; but whether the special huzzas were a
+tribute to the beauty of the Queen, or to the poetry of Carmen Sylva,
+we could not determine. All things have an end; and so did this
+dazzling State pageant, at which all Europe assisted and where all
+Europe was looking on; but not until Bismarck's carriage had conveyed
+the Chancellor to his chief, followed by General Von Moltke, who had
+the good taste to drive up simply, with two horses and an open
+carriage that interposed not even plate-glass between the great
+soldier and the loyal multitude. A few moments after their entrance,
+the Emperor appeared at the palace window, Bismarck on his right and
+Von Moltke on his left, and the hurrahs of the crowd burst forth anew.
+
+Later in the day the Crown Prince and Crown Princess entertained the
+royal guests at dinner; and Prince Bismarck, as usual on the Emperor's
+birthday, gave a dinner to the Diplomatic Corps. A drizzling rain set
+in suddenly in the afternoon, sending dismay to the hearts of all; for
+the most brilliant part of the celebration was still in reserve for
+the evening. The rain fell in occasional light showers up to a late
+hour, but it dampened only the outer garb, not the hearts, of the
+undiminished multitude, which at night-fall, on foot or in carriages,
+thronged the streets of the brilliant capital, whose myriad lights
+showed to better advantage under the reflecting clouds than they would
+have done under starlight. The carriages numbered scores of thousands,
+and the people on foot hundreds of thousands; but so complete were the
+arrangements of the police and so obedient the concourse, that all
+proceeded in nearly perfect order. Our coachman fortunately drove
+through Old Berlin and Köln, as a preliminary to the evening's
+sight-seeing. Long arcades filled with Jews' shops were worthy the pen
+of Dickens. This festal day made this most ancient portion of the city
+also one of the most picturesque. Houses with quaint dormer windows
+roofed by "eyelids," of an architecture dating back two or three
+hundred years, gleamed with candles in every window. Almost no house
+or shop was so poor as to dispense with its share of the universal
+illumination. At least three horizontal lines of lighted candles
+threaded both sides of every street of this city of a million and a
+half inhabitants. Many private as well as public buildings in the old
+part showed by colored lights the picturesque, quaint streets and
+nooks, as no light of day can ever do. We were passing the Rath-haus,
+or City Hall,--a modern and imposing edifice,--at the time when its
+great tower was being lighted up. Three hundred feet above the
+pavement floated the flags grouped in the centre and at the corners of
+the square tower. Invisible red fires illuminated them, the shafts of
+crimson light rising to the clouds above, the outlines of the
+remainder of the building dimly reposing in darkness. An immense
+electric light, guided by a reflector in another tower, shot a bridge
+of white light high in air across the river, and fell, like a
+circumscribed space of noonday amid black darkness, on the fine
+equestrian statue of the Great Elector by the bridge behind the Old
+Castle, with an effect almost indescribable. As we entered Unter den
+Linden by the Lustgarten, the beautiful square and its historic
+edifices, which form an ideal sight even by daylight, glowed and
+gleamed with jets of light from every point. The Old Schloss showed
+continuous lines of illumination in the windows of its four stories,
+along its front of six hundred and fifty feet, while the majestic dome
+caught and reflected rays of light from every point of the horizon. On
+the opposite side of the Lustgarten, the Doric portico of the National
+Gallery glowed with rose-colored light from massive Grecian lamps,
+while the arched entrance beneath its superb staircase gleamed with a
+pale sea-green radiance like the entrance to some ocean cave. The
+incomparable architecture of the Old Museum was set in strong relief
+by white light, which flooded its immense Ionic colonnade and brought
+out the high colors of the colossal frescos along the three hundred
+feet of its magnificent portico. The front of the palace of the Crown
+Prince was thrown, by innumerable jets, into a blaze of crimson. The
+Roman Catholic Church of St. Hedwig, with its dome in imitation of the
+Pantheon, its Latin cross and window arches beaming in pale yellow,
+made a fine background for the only unilluminated building, the palace
+of the Emperor. From the Opera House, the Arsenal, and the University,
+crowns and elaborate designs were burning, yet unconsumed. Most
+elaborately decorated of all Berlin buildings was the Academy of Arts
+and Sciences, opposite the Imperial Palace, with colossal warriors in
+bronze keeping guard at its portals, and the Angel of Peace laying a
+laurel wreath on the altar of Fatherland as its decorative
+centre-piece. No high meaning of all its symbols was more touching
+and significant than the appropriate texts of Scripture written for
+the Kaiser's eye, underneath its elaborate frescos. But of what avail
+would be an attempt to describe two miles of most beautiful
+decorations along Unter den Linden, each one a study in itself, and
+having nothing in common with the others, except the eagles and the
+Emperor's monogram; and the innumerable points of light, massed in a
+world of various forms, and in all the colors of the rainbow! This
+glow of splendor surrounded by the dense darkness covered the city,
+and the dazzling coronals of its lofty towers and domes and spires
+must have been visible to a great distance across the plains of
+Brandenburg.
+
+Slowly the triple line of carriages and the surging throng pressed
+onward, past the palaces and diplomatic residences of the Pariser
+Platz; some diverging down the Wilhelm Strasse, where streaming flags
+and blazing illuminations made noonday brightness and gayety about the
+palace of the Chancellor, but most passing through the Brandenburg
+Gate. The massive Doric columns of this impressive structure were in
+darkness, but the Chariot of Victory with its fine bronze horses,
+surmounting the gate, was weird with the scarlet light of Bengal
+fires burning on the entablature.
+
+As the artist rests his eyes by the spot of neutral gray which he
+keeps for the purpose on wall or palette, so brain and eye were
+prepared for sleep at the close of this long day, by sitting in our
+carriages, safe sheltered from the soft-falling rain, outside the
+great gate which divided the splendor from the darkness, for three
+quarters of an hour, in an inextricable tangle of carriages, until the
+perturbed coachmen and the sorely vexed police could evolve order from
+the temporary confusion, and set the hindered procession again on its
+homeward way.
+
+Meantime the day was not over for the much-enduring Emperor and his
+royal guests. In the famous White Saloon of the Old Schloss an
+entertainment was going forward. Blinding coronets and necklaces on
+royal ladies made the interior of this ancient palace more brilliant
+than its shining exterior on this birth-night. The Empress Augusta,
+leaning on the arm of her grandson, Prince William, was attired in a
+lace-trimmed robe of pale green, her diamonds a mass of sparkling
+light; the Crown Princess was in silver-gray, the wife of the English
+Ambassador in pale mauve, the Princess Christian in turquoise blue;
+and the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia wore a magnificent robe of
+pink satin trimmed with sable, with a tiara of diamonds and a
+stomacher of diamonds and emeralds. From the neck and forehead of the
+Queen of Roumania flashed a thousand prismatic hues; and the Green
+Vault of Dresden sent some of its most precious treasures to keep
+company with the fair Queen of Saxony in adding brilliance to the
+scene.
+
+Our reverie led from this starry point in history back to the time
+when, as on this memorable day, the royal salute of Berlin artillery
+shook the city, to announce the birth of a prince ninety years ago. A
+rapid, almost a chance recall of the years shows us Washington then
+living on his estate at Mount Vernon, Lafayette a young man of forty,
+Clay a stripling of twenty, Webster a boy of fifteen. The Directory in
+France had not yet made way for the First Republic; the younger Pitt
+and Canning held England; Metternich and O'Connell were in their
+youth, and Robert Peel was a child of nine. Napoleon Bonaparte was in
+the flush of youthful success, soon to become the idol of France and
+the terror of Europe, before whom the boy, now Kaiser Wilhelm, and
+his royal family fled to Königsberg by the Baltic, while the conqueror
+held Berlin and reduced Prussia to a second-rate province. To this boy
+the flames of burning Moscow were a transient aurora-borealis under
+the pole-star; and Nelson and Wellington were unknown to the stories
+of his childhood, for as yet their fame was not. Goethe and Schiller
+were in the prime of early manhood; Kant and Klopstock elderly, but
+with years yet to live; Scott was just laying down his poet's pen and
+preparing to take up the immortal quill with which he wrote his first
+"Waverley;" Moore was singing his sweet melodies; Wordsworth had yet
+to lay the foundations of the "Lake Poetry;" and the fair boy, Byron,
+was chanting his early songs, not yet for many a year to die at
+Missolonghi.
+
+This wonderful old man of ninety, gayly stooping to kiss the hand of a
+lady to-night in his hospitable palace, like the young man that he is,
+has a memory stretching from the battle of Austerlitz across the
+gigantic struggles of the century to the battle of Sedan,--all of
+which he has seen, and a part of which he has been!
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+STREETS, PARKS, CEMETERIES, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+
+For a hundred years the picturesque Brandenburg Gate has guarded the
+entrance to Unter den Linden from the Thiergarten. It is a monument of
+the reversion of royal taste from the devotion to French style, which
+characterized Frederick the Great, to the purely classical. It is
+nearly two hundred feet in width, its five openings being guarded by
+six massive Doric columns about forty-five feet in height. To
+foot-passengers, riders, and ordinary vehicles the two outer spaces on
+each side are devoted respectively, while the wide central passage is
+traversed only by the royal carriages. The celebrated quadriga with
+the figure of Victory, on the entablature, was first placed with the
+face toward the Park. When the First Napoleon robbed Berlin, along
+with other cities, for the adornment of Paris, he carried off this
+masterpiece in bronze and set it up in the Place du Carrousel under
+the shadow of the Tuileries. Upon Napoleon's downfall in 1814, this
+group was restored to its original place, but was set facing the Unter
+den Linden, making of the Brandenburger Thor a triumphal arch marking
+the victory of Prussia in the long contest.
+
+The famous Unter den Linden, nearly two hundred feet wide and three
+fourths of a mile in length, with a double line of lime-trees
+enclosing an area of greensward along the centre, would be accounted
+anywhere a handsome street, with the palaces of the Pariser Platz at
+one end, the Imperial palaces, the Arsenal, the Academy, and the
+University at the other, and brilliant shop-windows lining both sides
+of the whole length, while the Brandenburg Gate and the great
+equestrian statue of Frederick the Great at either extremity close the
+fine vista. Leaving out of view, however, these two noble features
+which mark its termini, the street seemed not handsome enough to
+justify its fame. Perhaps this was because we found the famous
+lime-trees, for which the street is named, quite ordinary young trees,
+not to be compared with the magnificent elms which line the streets of
+New Haven and the Mall of Boston Common.
+
+The characteristic part of Berlin is, to our view, the great space
+east of Unter den Linden, surrounded by the palaces, the royal Guard
+House, the Arsenal, the University, and the Academy of Arts and
+Sciences. These fine buildings and the ornamented open spaces around
+and between them, on a sunny afternoon in midwinter, show a brilliant
+and unique scene which has hardly its parallel in Europe. The Champs
+Élysées is finer at night; Hyde Park, St. James, the Parliament
+buildings, and Westminster Abbey far finer on a sunny morning; but the
+third city in Europe has no need to be ashamed of its royal buildings
+and the scene before them, in the season when the Court is in Berlin,
+and the slant rays of an early afternoon sun light up the gay throng
+of soldiers in uniform, State carriages, pedestrians, and vehicles
+which surge to and fro without crowding the vast spaces.
+
+The Lustgarten is fine; but of the buildings around it, the Old Museum
+alone meets the eye with architectural satisfaction. In all lights
+that building is beautiful in design and proportions. The Old Schloss
+is impressive mainly by its massiveness and its august dome. A most
+picturesque view by moonlight is to be had from the east end of the
+Lange or Kürfürsten Brücke, southeast of the old palace. Here the
+water-front of the old castle is in full view, with the fortified part
+unaltered since the early occupation by the Hohenzollerns. This
+mediæval building, shaded by a few ancient trees, with here and there
+a light reflected from the upper windows at evening, and with tower
+and turret duplicated on the surface of the darkly flowing river at
+its foot, shares with one the feeling of ancient times, as no other
+place in Berlin can do. In the centre of this bridge is the equestrian
+statue of the Great Elector, superior as a work of art to any other of
+its date. This grand figure is fabled to descend from his horse and
+stalk through the streets on New Year's eve, for the chastisement of
+evil-doers.
+
+The Wilhelm Strasse, running from a point near the Pariser Platz south
+from Unter den Linden, has many palaces and public buildings; but its
+chief interest centres about No. 77, the palace of Prince Bismarck.
+The front looks eastward, and is built around three sides of a garden
+filled with shrubbery and threaded by walks, and shut off from the
+street by great iron gates and a high open iron fence. The study,
+where the Chancellor spends much time when in Berlin, looks upon a
+garden, and is furnished with the same simplicity which characterizes
+the private apartments of General Von Moltke. Among the few pictures
+which adorn the study of Bismarck is one of General Grant. Here it was
+that the famous Berlin Congress met in 1878 for the settlement of the
+Eastern Question.
+
+The palace of Prince Albert of Prussia, now Military Governor of
+Brunswick, is situated in a magnificent private park, acres in extent,
+in the heart of the city. It opens from the Wilhelm Strasse at the
+head of Koch. This palace was built in the early part of the
+eighteenth century by a French nobleman, with wealth gained in the
+great speculations of the Mississippi Scheme, upon which all France
+entered in hope of retrieving the bankruptcy entailed by Louis XIV.
+Its fine colonnade, its great park, and its position, adjoining the
+park of the War Department, between two great railroad stations and
+surrounded by tramways, render it one of the most prominent features
+of Central Berlin.
+
+The small and elaborately laid-out square of the Wilhelm Strasse,
+known as the Wilhelms Platz, with its pretty fountains, shrubs, and
+flowers, has bronze statues of six generals of Frederick the
+Great,--heroes of the Seven Years' War. Here it is easy to sit and
+dream of the olden time, in reverie which not even the Kaiserhof
+diplomats nor the Wilhelm-Street autocrats, within a stone's-throw on
+either side, nor the throng and glitter of the Berlin of to-day, can
+disturb. Here, surrounded by the figures and the faces of the men with
+whom Carlyle has made us acquainted, we recall the wonderful story
+which he, as none other, has written. How masterly is the way in which
+he has portrayed for us this Prussian history whose memorials stand
+around us! With feeling how deep and true for the real and the eternal
+as against the false, the seeming, and the transient! What a picture
+is the history! What a poem is the picture!
+
+At the northeast corner of the Wilhelms Platz is the palace of Prince
+Friedrich Karl, one of the leaders of the Franco-Prussian War. It was
+once the temple of the Order of the Knights of Malta, but its
+sumptuous interior has now for many years been devoted to residence on
+the upper floor, and to the famous art and _bric-à-brac_ collections
+of the late prince, on the ground floor. It is not difficult to gain,
+from the steward, the requisite permission to visit this interesting
+palace.
+
+Many private houses, interesting for their associations, might be
+found by the sojourner in Berlin who cares to search them out; but
+intelligent residents only, and not the guide-books, can facilitate
+this search. In the Margrafen Strasse, near the Royal Library, is the
+house where Neander lived and studied and wrote. Near the
+Dreifaltische Kirche, behind the Kaiserhof, is the old-fashioned
+parsonage which was the home of Schleiermacher, and in the
+Oranienburger Strasse is the house in which lived Alexander von
+Humboldt.
+
+Of the many beautiful parks, the Thiergarten overshadows all the rest,
+both because of its commanding location, close to Unter den Linden and
+other busy streets, and its great extent. A combination of park and
+wild forest, with streams, ponds, bridges, and miles of shaded avenues
+and riding-paths in perfect condition, its six hundred acres form one
+of the largest, most beautiful and useful parks in Europe. The
+elaborate and towering monument to commemorate the victories of recent
+Prussian and German wars is the centre of a system of grand avenues in
+the northeastern part. This monument was originally intended to
+commemorate the Schleswig-Holstein conquest; later, the victories over
+Austria in 1866 were to be included; and when the Franco-Prussian War
+was happily ended, it was decided to make of it also a fitting
+memorial of united Germany. On the third anniversary of the
+Capitulation of Sedan, Emperor William I. unveiled the colossal statue
+of Victory on the summit of the monument, which commemorates the chief
+events of his august reign.
+
+Immense bas-reliefs on the pedestal represent, on one side, events in
+the Danish campaign; on another is shown the Decoration of the Crown
+Prince by the Emperor on the field of Sadowa, with Prince Friedrich
+Karl, Von Moltke, and Bismarck standing by; the third side shows the
+French General Reille, handing Louis Napoleon's letter of capitulation
+at Sedan; and the fourth, the triumphal entry of German soldiers into
+Paris through the Arc de Triomphe. There is also a representation of
+the scene, on that day when all Berlin went wild with joy and
+exultation over the return of the Kaiser and his troops from Paris, of
+their reception at the Brandenburg Gate.
+
+Within the open colonnade of the substructure, a vast mosaic shows, in
+symbols, the history of the Franco-Prussian War, closing with a
+representation of Bavaria offering the German Crown to Prussia, and
+the proclamation of the Kaiser at Versailles. It was King William
+himself who refused to have his own image placed here as the Victor,
+and who substituted in the design of the artist the female figure of
+Borussia with the features of his mother, Queen Louise. The shaft,
+rising eighty-five feet above the substructure, has three divisions,
+with twenty perpendicular grooves in each. These grooves are filled
+with thrice twenty upright cannon, captured from the Danes, the
+Austrians, and the French, bound to the shaft by gilded wreaths of
+laurel. The Prussian Eagles surmount the column, forming a capital
+upwards of one hundred and fifty feet above the pavement; and the
+great statue soars nearly fifty feet still higher.
+
+In the southeastern portion of the Thiergarten is a colossal statue
+of Goethe, which shows at its best in the twilight of an early summer
+evening, framed in the tender greens and browns of the bursting
+foliage behind it. Not far away are the statues of Queen Louise and
+King Frederick William III., parents of Emperor William I., surrounded
+by beautiful flowers, pools, and fountains; and the famous "Lion
+Group" marks the intersection of much-frequented avenues in the same
+neighborhood. A wide central avenue traversing the whole length of the
+Thiergarten from east to west allows space for the tramway to the
+imposing edifice of the Institute of Technology and to the Zoölogical
+Gardens, where is one of the largest and best collections of birds and
+animals in the world, each species with habitations suited to it,
+several built in showy Oriental style, amid concert-gardens where
+beautiful music may be heard every day.
+
+A favorite walk of ours on sunny winter mornings was in the West End
+of Berlin, where are many of the finer aristocratic residences. No
+city can show, so far as we know, a handsomer residence quarter than
+portions of that which stretches between the Thiergarten on the north,
+the Zoölogical Gardens on the west, and the Botanical Garden on the
+south. The collections of the latter, like those of the Zoölogical
+Gardens, rank among the first of their kind. The great glass house
+which shelters the _Victoria Regia_ is attractive chiefly in the
+summer, when the plants are in blossom, but the cacti and the palm
+houses are interesting the year round. The palm-house is a Crystal
+Palace on a small scale. Entering, one finds a tropical atmosphere,
+hot and moist. All the larger palms and some of the smaller have each
+a furnace to themselves, from four to six feet in diameter and the
+same in height. Over this furnace the great tub is set which contains
+the roots of the tree, over which water is frequently sprinkled. The
+arrangement of the trees is graceful and beautiful. There are
+galleries and seats everywhere; and little imagination is required to
+transport one's self to Oriental and Biblical scenes, with these
+palm-trees towering overhead. A short walk east of these gardens is
+the Matthai Cemetery, where repose the brothers Grimm.
+
+The Schiller Platz, so named from the statue before the
+Schauspielhaus, is fortunate--if not in the life-size statue of the
+poet--in the fine pedestal, with its allegorical figures of Poetry,
+History, and Philosophy, which were originally designed to adorn a
+fountain. In a still more crowded part of Berlin the Donhof Platz has
+recently been transformed, from a barren square surrounding the statue
+of that great Prussian, Baron von Stein, into a lovely garden-spot,
+with flowers and trees and birds for the cheer of the hurrying
+multitudes.
+
+The old Halle Gate, where several streets converge to the southern
+extremity of the Friedrich Strasse, is reached through ornamental
+grounds known as the Belle-Alliance Platz, in the centre of which is a
+column erected to commemorate the peace which followed the wars of the
+First Napoleon. Not far to the southwest is the Kreuzberg, the only
+mountain in this part of Brandenburg,--a modest eminence about two
+hundred feet above the sea-level. It is crowned by an iron obelisk
+which affords a good view of the city.
+
+Berlin has no cemetery comparable in extent or beauty to many in the
+environs of American cities. Three small burial-grounds, separate but
+adjoining, at the southern edge of the city contain the graves of
+Neander, with the memorable inscription,--his favorite motto,--"Pectus
+est quod theologum facit;" of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, his
+parents and his sister Fanny; of Schleiermacher, and of our
+countryman, the Rev. Dr. J.P. Thompson, long-beloved pastor of the
+Broadway Tabernacle Church, New York. Here, also, Bayard Taylor was
+for a time laid to rest, before being finally removed to his native
+land. Decorations are not so ostentatious as in Catholic countries;
+and quiet ivy, simple greensward, and the shadow of trees in which
+birds may sing, make the quaint Berlin cemeteries attractive places.
+This was to us especially true of the ancient cemetery connected with
+the Sophien Kirche and the old Dorotheen-Stadt cemetery, in the
+northern part of the city, where we went to look upon the graves of
+Fichte and Hegel, and of several artists famous in Berlin annals. In
+the Sophien Kirchof lies the philosopher, Moses Mendelssohn; and in
+that of the Garrison Church, De la Motte Fouqué, the author of
+"Undine."
+
+One of the most conspicuous public buildings is the Rath-haus, or Town
+Hall, erected at a cost of nearly two million dollars. Its lofty
+clock-tower with illuminated dial tells the time to all Berlin by
+night, and adds a charm to the group of royal palaces and museums on
+which it looks down. The ancient town-houses of North Germany most
+truly express the spirit of the old Hanse League; and the Rath-haus of
+Berlin, while keeping the spirit, adds the grand proportions and
+embellishments characteristic of the modern city. The interior
+apartments, including the Festival Hall, the Town Council-Room, and
+the Magistrates' Chamber, are elaborately adorned with historical
+frescos and statues, and the grand staircase has a finely vaulted
+ceiling and windows of stained glass filled with Prussian heraldry. A
+visit to this edifice by daylight gives one the fine view from the
+clock-tower; but to see the famous Raths-Keller underneath, with
+characteristic accompaniments, one must go after dark. One evening,
+after the adjournment, in an upper hall, of that rare thing in Berlin,
+a temperance meeting, a friend led our party through the elegant
+apartments of this place of popular refreshment. In the basement of
+this costly municipal building is a gilded saloon, upwards of three
+hundred feet long, divided into apartments. In some of these whole
+families were partaking of their evening "refreshments;" others were
+manifestly the appointed trysting-places of friends, while here and
+there, in sheltered nooks, the solitary ones sipped their wine or
+beer. Everything, so far as we could see, was orderly and quiet, and
+we were told that the place was one of eminent respectability. It is
+only after witnessing the habits of the people, in their homes and
+places of popular resort, that one is prepared to appreciate the
+enormous consumption of beer, averaging four glasses per day to every
+man, woman, and child in the kingdom, at an average annual cost to
+families greater than their house-rent.
+
+The Exchange, or Börse, on the east bank of the river, is a most
+imposing building. The excitements of this money-centre may be seen in
+a visit here any week-day at noon. There are galleries for visitors,
+over the Great Hall, which accommodates five thousand persons.
+
+The Imperial Bank, like the Imperial Mint, is under State control; and
+both occupy buildings themselves worthy to be called Imperial.
+
+The great City Prison, on a modern plan, is in Moabit, a northwestern
+suburb. This region received its name, "Pays de Moab," from French
+immigrants on account of its sterile soil; but a part of it is
+becoming an attractive and beautiful residence quarter. To the north
+of this is a model state-prison, accommodating twelve hundred
+prisoners.
+
+The Insane Asylum is said also to be a model institution. It has
+accommodations for fifteen hundred patients; and its buildings are
+near Dalldorf, a short distance east of the route to the northwestern
+suburb of Tegel. The Medical Department of the University has large
+buildings in different parts of the city. Connected with these is the
+great Carité Hospital, founded a hundred years ago, and richly endowed
+by public and private funds. In its many wards more than fifteen
+hundred patients are constantly under treatment. Another interesting
+hospital is the Städtische Krankenhaus, completed about fifteen years
+ago, on the "pavilion" plan, with the best modern appliances. This is
+situated in the beautiful park known as the Friedrichshain, in the
+northeastern part of the city. The Bethanien, in the southeastern
+quarter, is a large institution for the training of nurses, admirably
+managed, under the care of the deaconesses, or Protestant Sisters.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+PALACES.
+
+
+The palaces lately occupied by Emperor William I. and Crown Prince
+Frederick were formerly shown to the public during the absence of the
+occupants at their country residences; but as this was usually in the
+summer, when comparatively few strangers are in Berlin, they were not
+commonly included in a sight-seeing programme. They are pleasant
+homes, without great magnificence, but containing many interesting
+memorials of the lives of their Imperial masters. The palace of the
+Crown Prince was not used by him after he became Emperor Frederick
+III. The hundred days of pain which remained to him of life were spent
+at Charlottenburg and in the Castle of Friedrichskron at Potsdam.
+
+The Old Schloss of Berlin, dating back in its foundation to the castle
+fortified on the river-side more than four hundred years ago by one of
+the early Electors of Brandenburg to maintain his rights of conquest,
+has received many later additions. It now has seven hundred
+apartments, and reached perhaps its greatest glory in the time of
+Frederick the Great, who was born here. It was then the central seat
+of the royal family; and here were deposited the records and treasures
+of the Government. It is now used only as the permanent residence of a
+few officials, but is the place of entertainment for many royal guests
+and their retinues when the great State pageants occur, of which
+Berlin has seen so many. It is popularly said to be haunted. There is
+a story that the Countess Agnes of Orlamünde, many, many years ago,
+murdered her two children in order that she might marry the man of her
+choice, and that in penance her ghost is condemned to haunt the Old
+Palace of Berlin and that of Bayreuth. It is believed by some that
+this apparition of "the White Lady" appears to a member of the
+Hohenzollern family as a sure forerunner of death; and Carlyle's
+picture of the causeless fright of one of the royal rulers when he
+thought he had seen this ghost, will recur to all who have read
+"Frederick the Great." We have heard of no visitor so fortunate as to
+get a sight of the apparition. One enters through an inner court; and
+parties who wish to see the interior are taken every half-hour, by an
+official in charge, for a tour of the palace. The waxed floors of
+inlaid wood are very handsome; and, as in other parts of Central
+Europe, they are protected from the tramp of visitors by immense felt
+slippers, into which all are required to thrust their shoes, and in
+which one goes gliding noiselessly over the polished surfaces in a way
+to save the floors, but not always to conserve the dignity or gravity
+of those unaccustomed to the process. Many of the rooms are highly
+decorated, and memorials of the history of Prussia abound. There are
+many paintings, of which most are portraits or battle scenes, the
+picture gallery proper containing the pictures connected with Prussian
+history, and the Kings' and Queens' chambers the portraits of all the
+sovereigns. The Chamber of the Cloth of Gold and the Old Throne Room
+are highly ornamented, and contain massive gold and silver mementos of
+former kings and of Emperor William's long career. Here also is the
+great crystal chandelier which once hung in the Hall of the Conclave
+at Worms, and under which Luther stood when he made the immortal
+declaration, "Hier stehe ich; ich kann nicht andere; helfe mir Gott.
+Amen." In the White Hall court balls are held, and here sometimes has
+gathered the Parliament to be opened by the Emperor. It is said that
+when lighted up by its nearly three thousand wax candles for a court
+festival, the scene in this hall is extremely brilliant.
+
+Charlottenburg has been anew endeared to the public by the pathos of
+the home-coming of Emperor Frederick III., who took up his first
+Imperial residence in this suburban palace, and from an upper window
+of which he watched the funeral procession of his venerable sire as it
+passed to the mausoleum. This only son and heir to a great throne
+might not follow the bier of the father to its resting-place, but
+gazed alone from the palace at the mournful pageant, knowing that the
+time could not be far distant when the same sad ceremonials would be
+repeated for himself. Who shall say what were the thoughts of the
+manly Frederick III., as, when wife and children had joined the sad
+procession which wound its way northward through that grand but sombre
+avenue of stately pines which leads from the palace of Charlottenburg
+to the beautiful marble mausoleum where Kaiser Wilhelm was laid to
+rest beside his mother and his father, the sick man stood immovably at
+that upper window, following only with his eyes, and with no spoken
+word, the drama in which himself was the central and most pathetic
+figure!
+
+Charlottenburg is a suburb some two or three miles southwest of
+Berlin, practically now a part of the capital, but with a corporation
+and a quiet life of its own. Sophia Charlotte, Queen of the first King
+of Prussia, founded for herself a country residence here at the
+village of Lietzow, nearly two hundred years ago; and this has given
+the palace and the present suburb its name. Here the idolized Queen
+Louise in the early part of this century lived much, and here are many
+portraits and marbles bearing her likeness. The palace and front
+garden are in unattractive "rococo" style, especially the rooms
+occupied by Frederick the Great; but the gardens in the rear of the
+palace are large and most attractive. The fame of the place arises
+chiefly from the beautiful Doric mausoleum to Frederick William III.
+and Queen Louise, created by the taste of their son, King Frederick
+William IV., brother and predecessor of the late Emperor William. The
+exquisite reposing figure of Queen Louise in Carrara marble lies under
+light falling through stained glass in the dome; and the tomb of the
+King (her husband) lying beside her is hardly less attractive. Both
+are surrounded by excellent accessories in marble and fresco, and it
+is a place where one gladly lingers long. The great avenue leading
+from the palace to the mausoleum has ivy-mantled trunks of giant trees
+for sentinels, and greensward and forest on either hand make a quiet
+which beseems one of the loveliest of resting-places for the dead. It
+was here that King William came to pray, beside the tomb of the mother
+who had suffered so much at the hands of the First Napoleon, on the
+eve of going out to the war with Napoleon III.; and here, when
+returning in the flush of victory as Emperor of United Germany, with
+Louis Napoleon a prisoner in the German castle of Wilhelmshöhe, the
+old man came again to kneel in silent prayer beside the form of that
+mother whom the fortunes of war had so signally avenged more than
+sixty years after her death. What wonder that in this sacred spot only
+did William I. wish to be laid, when death should gather him to his
+fathers!
+
+Sixteen miles southwest of Berlin, "that amphibious Potsdam" of
+Carlyle holds out manifold attractions by land and water ways. It is a
+city of fifty thousand inhabitants, besides a garrison of soldiers
+which guard its royal palaces and their lovely grounds. There are many
+interesting public buildings and historical monuments. It was early in
+our Berlin residence that, taking advantage of a bright morning when
+bright mornings were not too frequent, two Americans were set down at
+the station in Potsdam, armed only with a well-studied guide-book and
+a few words of conversational German. We did not wish to be shown
+everything, and so, declining the offered services of guides, engaged
+a drosky by the hour, with a kindly-faced young man for driver. He
+took the greatest interest in us, and supplied us with such
+information as we wished. For the rest we were set down at Sans Souci,
+free to stroll through its rooms in charge of the palace official,
+with our freshly read Macaulay and Carlyle in mind, striking the
+balance for ourselves between these two differing estimates of
+Frederick the Great, with every particular standing out vividly in the
+light of the object-lessons from that monarch's life which crowded on
+every hand. It was fortunate for us that we were the only visitors
+that morning, for this was the first palace we had entered, and the
+dreams of childhood were realizing themselves like the lines of a
+remembered fairy poem. The sympathy which spoke or was silent at will,
+sure of being always understood, gave the final touch of perfection to
+a memorable day. Beautiful for situation, the long, domed, one-storied
+building, the favorite residence of Frederick the Great, is impressive
+because of its history. As we wandered through the suites of elegant
+rooms and heard the stories connected with Frederick and Voltaire,
+their shades seemed everywhere to flit before us. The first terrace
+leads to the spot where the King buried his favorite horses and dogs,
+and where, before the palace was built, he once expressed a wish to
+lie at the last. "When I am there I shall be without care," he said in
+French; and so the palace afterwards built for him here took the name
+"Sans Souci." The great iron gates at the north of the palace had
+been but twice opened, we were told,--once by the force of the First
+Napoleon, and once when the greater monarch, Death, had laid his hand
+on King Frederick William IV., who was carried hence to his last home.
+The great fountain was not playing that day; but the drive through the
+vast and famous park, with its enticing views and bewitching beauty,
+left nothing to be desired except a convenient place for physical
+refreshments. Past the orangery, with its wide views over land and
+lake, and Bornstedt (the favorite country home of the Crown Prince) to
+the north; past the "old windmill" known to history, to the New
+Palace, with its magnificence, its great extent, and its curious shell
+grotto,--we leave the simple charms of Charlottenhof and its
+neighborhood for another visit, and hasten to stand beside the coffin
+of Frederick the Great beneath the pulpit of the Potsdam Garrison
+Church.
+
+Nearer to the station is the Old Schloss of Potsdam. An old lime-tree
+opposite the entrance is shown as the place where the petitioners for
+the favor of Frederick the Great used to station themselves, in order
+to attract his Majesty's attention from the window of his bedroom, or
+as he went in and out of the palace. Here we were almost bewildered by
+the number and extent of the rooms, and the multitude of historical
+associations connected with them. Here lived Frederick William I.,
+father of Frederick the Great, in Carlyle's word-painting inferior to
+no other figure in that great composition. Here are the rolling chairs
+and the inclined planes along which that monarch was wheeled in the
+course of his long and painful illness; in his study are the pictures
+painted by him _in tormentis_, and looking forth from the south
+windows we see the parade-ground where he used to drill his giant
+soldiers. There stands a statue of this strange, eccentric monarch,
+who, notwithstanding all that was bad, had so much in him that was
+good and true. It was from this palace that his lifeless remains were
+carried forth to rest in the Garrison Church, not far away.
+
+As at Sans Souci, remembrance of Frederick the Great crowds upon us in
+the Old Schloss also. Here is his round-corner room, with walls of
+famous thickness, and a dumb-waiter lifting up through the floor the
+table and all its viands, that here he might dine alone with his
+intimates and no tell-tale sounds escape. Here is the heavy
+solid-silver balustrade which separates his library from his
+sleeping-room. In this place, not long before our visit, Prince and
+Princess Wilhelm, whose winter residence was on an upper floor of this
+palace, had brought their youngest son for baptism. All the later
+sovereigns have occupied, at one time or another, apartments in this
+interesting old palace, and here many souvenirs of the present as well
+as former royal families are shown.
+
+Charlottenhof, in the southern part of the grounds of Sans Souci, is
+an unpretending villa, beautiful in its simplicity, and with all its
+charms enhanced by its having been granted by the King as a summer
+residence to Alexander von Humboldt while working at his "Kosmos."
+Near this is the beautiful Roman Bath, adorned with fine works of art.
+
+The New Palace, now known as Friedrichskron, built on a vast scale by
+Frederick the Great after the Seven Years' War, to show that he was
+not impoverished, has henceforth its immortality as the birthplace of
+Frederick III.; and here he expired, on the morning of a June day,
+scarce a twelvemonth after he had ridden among the foremost of that
+dazzling throng of potentates which graced the imperial progress of
+Queen Victoria to Westminster Abbey on the celebration of her regal
+Jubilee.
+
+In the days of their happy summer life, lived in great simplicity and
+homelikeness, the Crown Princess once wrote, in a little pavilion
+here,--
+
+    "This plot of ground I call my own,
+      Sweet with the breath of flowers,
+    Of memories, of pure delights,
+      And toil of summer hours."
+
+Alas! henceforth these domestic memories have an element of
+unspeakable pathos added by the remembrance of the last fortnight of
+that devoted life which vanished in this memorable spot, whence the
+funeral procession went forth, through the park of Sans Souci, to lay
+all that was mortal of the beloved Frederick III. beside the graves of
+their young sons Waldemar and Sigismund, in the Peace Church of
+Potsdam.
+
+Babelsburg, the summer home of Emperor William I., is to many visitors
+more charming than any of the historic castles and palaces of Potsdam.
+Distant two or three miles from these, it is in striking contrast
+with them all. It is a modern villa in the Norman style, in a
+beautiful and extensive park northeast of Potsdam. One does not wonder
+that it was dearest of all his residences to the heart of the aged
+Emperor. Here, more than elsewhere, are the evidences and atmosphere
+of a simple yet courtly home life. Babelsburg should be visited in the
+early summer, when the trees of its great forest are showing their
+first leaves, clothed, and yet not obstructing the unrivalled view by
+land and water, and when the sward is embroidered by daisies and
+buttercups. Here the private rooms of Emperor William I. and Empress
+Augusta were freely shown, with scattered papers, work-basket, fires
+laid in the grates ready to light for the cool mornings and evenings,
+halls, staircases, reception-rooms, library, study, and
+sleeping-rooms, as homelike and everyday-looking as though they were
+those of any happy family in any part of the land. Of special interest
+to English travellers is the suite of rooms fitted up for the
+reception of the Princess Royal when she came to Germany as a bride in
+1858. The chambers are hung with chintz of pale pink and other
+delicate colors, such as one sees in England, and with the same
+dainty arrangements which make English bedrooms a synonym for spotless
+comfort the world around. Here were arranged the pictures of father
+and queen-mother and brothers and sisters, and the little souvenirs of
+home with which, as an English girl of seventeen, she fought the
+homesickness inevitable to a stranger in a foreign land; and here many
+of them remain, in the rooms still called by her name.
+
+The "Marble Palace" is seen to fine advantage, in the midst of lovely
+waters, from the road which leads from Potsdam to Gleinicke. It was
+the summer home of the present Emperor, while Prince William, and is
+not open to visitors.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+THE HOMES OF THE HUMBOLDTS.
+
+
+An hour by tramway, northwest of Berlin, lies Tegel, the hereditary
+estate of the Humboldt family. About two hundred years ago its hills
+and dales, pine forests and sandy plains, were the property of the
+Great Elector. Some eighty years later, a Pomeranian Major in the army
+of Frederick the Great was high in favor with the King on account of
+his distinguished service in the Seven Years' War, and was rewarded by
+gifts and promotions. To William von Humboldt, eldest son of this
+Major and Royal Chamberlain, descended the château and lands of the
+former royal hunting-lodge of Tegel. Though this was not, in strict
+sense, the home of the more famous younger brother, Alexander, these
+were his ancestral acres. Here he often came to this brother, whose
+death in his arms in 1835 cast a lasting shadow over his lonely life;
+and here, beside the brother and his family, his mortal part lies
+buried.
+
+A bright April morning was the time of our visit. The outskirts of a
+great city are seldom more free from unpleasant sights than the
+northern suburb through which we passed. Here and there, in the plain
+which surrounds Berlin, sandy knolls appear; now and then the tall
+chimney of a manufactory or a brewery pierces the sky; but the city
+insensibly gives place to the country. Clean-swept garden paths, trim
+hedges of gooseberry bushes just bursting into leaf, and hens
+scratching the freshly turned furrows, brought back a childlike
+delight in the spring-time; while the antiquarian tastes of later
+years were fed by glimpses of delicious old houses which raised their
+drooping eyelids in quaint gable-windows looking forth over
+ivy-mantled walls, as if in sleepy surprise at all the bustle and stir
+of this work-a-day world.
+
+One or two hamlets had been passed, and the camp, from which we had
+met a train of artillery and many companies of soldiers on their way
+to the city, when the tram-conductor announced the village of Tegel,
+the end of the route. A few rods, and a turn to the left past some
+mills brings us to the entrance of the castle park. An obelisk,
+battered and ancient-looking enough to belong to the age of Cleopatra,
+stands beside the modest iron gate of the entrance. An old
+peasant-woman passing with a pack on her back answers our question by
+saying that this is an ancient milestone which formerly stood a little
+above its present site; and we surmise that its mutilated condition is
+due to relic-hunters. Inside the gate we see a grassy plain with sandy
+patches; here and there are deep open ditches for drainage; and
+avenues stretch off in several directions, bounded by rows of great
+overarching trees. We follow one reaching toward higher ground and
+forest-covered hills. On an elevation a few rods farther on stands the
+château,--the old hunting-lodge no more, but a two-story Roman villa,
+rectangular, with square towers at the corners, on each face of which
+is a carved frieze with a Greek inscription. Back of this "Schloss,"
+but not hidden by it, on a smooth slope, is a large ancient one-story
+dwelling with side front, in good preservation. Its ivy mantle does
+not conceal the frame, which is filled in with stuccoed brick, and
+which alone would proclaim the age of the building. The long slope of
+the mossy roof must hide a wonderful old attic, for it is full of
+tiled "eyes" to admit light and air, and two or three single panes of
+glass are inserted in different places for the same purpose. Three
+windows on each side the low doorway in the front look forth on the
+quiet scene, the lace curtains within revealing glimpses of a cosey,
+homelike interior. On one side are supplementary buildings fit for
+companionship with this quaint home, and a fenced garden and ancient
+orchard, beyond which five woodmen were leisurely sawing an
+old-fashioned woodpile of immense size;--only princely estates can
+supply such a luxury in these degenerate days.
+
+The shadow of death was in the villa. Two days before, Frau von Bülow,
+the last of the Humboldts, had been carried forth, to rest beside her
+husband and children, her father William, and her uncle Alexander von
+Humboldt. The gnarled and twisted stem of a venerable ivy clasps with
+two arms one of the most majestic of the tall trees before the house,
+one branch bearing large leaves of a tender green, the other small and
+beautifully outlined leaves of dark maroon exquisitely veined. Beds
+bordered with box are bright with pansies. We wander onward, along the
+great shaded avenue, with level green fields on either side. An
+opening suddenly sets a study in color before our eyes. The unbroken
+stretch of sward southward is in most vivid spring green; there is a
+gleam of blue water beyond the tender purple of a distant forest,
+overhung by the fleecy cumuli of a perfect but constantly changing
+sky. It is simple and beautiful beyond description. We approach some
+wooded hills, well cared for, but lifting themselves upward in the
+beauty of Nature, not art. Buttercups and star-grass and chickweed
+arrest us occasionally by the roadside, until a wooded pathway brings
+us to a plot surrounded by an iron fence. Within, an old woman is
+trimming the ivy overspreading a grave, and there are eight or ten
+other mounds, all ivy or flower covered, and with low headstones. At
+the west end of the enclosure is a semicircular stone platform, with a
+stone seat skirting the circumference. From the centre rises a lofty
+shaft of polished granite, bearing on its summit a statue of Hope, by
+Thorwaldsen. On the pedestal are the names of William von Humboldt and
+his noble wife, and near it the newly closed grave of this daughter,
+who at the age of eighty-five, after a distinguished life, sleeps here
+beneath the funeral wreaths which hide the mound, and bear, on long
+black or white ribbons, the names of societies and eminent families
+who have sent these tributes of remembrance and affection. White
+hyacinths and lilies-of-the-valley perfume the air, and palm-branches
+lie on the new-made grave, above the flowers. I treasure an ivy leaf
+or two, given by the workwoman, and pick up a cone which has just
+fallen from a fir-tree upon the grave of Alexander, as I read the
+inscription on his headstone: "Thou too wilt at last come to the
+grave; how art thou preparing?" This simple epitaph, with name and
+age, is all, except his earthly work, that speaks for him who was
+once, after Napoleon Bonaparte, the most famous man in Europe, and
+who, in learning and in devotion to Nature, was as great as he was
+famous.
+
+From the little burial-ground we took a hill-path, hoping for a more
+distant view than we had found but hardly expecting it. Ascending
+gradually, there were glimpses of forests and hills far to the
+northward; and a porter's lodge, and stables, in a vale amid the
+trees, revealed only by the distant baying of a hound, and the blue
+smoke curling upward. Still we wound along, over the hillsides and
+under the trees, pausing occasionally to rest on simple rustic seats,
+on which were carved the initials of former pilgrims to these scenes.
+Faring onward, there came a sudden burst of light and beauty.
+
+    "Far, far o'er hill and dale"
+
+shines the blue expanse of the Tegeler See, with sunshine flooding all
+the broad acres between. The fortress spires of Spandau and the dome
+of the royal palace of Charlottenburg spring from the purple,
+forest-rimmed horizon; and beyond is a tangle of history written on
+the sky in domes and palaces and spires, I know not what, nor how
+many. To the delight of this sudden vision is added the thought of the
+generations of men and women who have trod this forest path, and whose
+eyes have been gladdened by this sight, until a file of mounted
+knights and nobles, from the Great Elector through a line of kings and
+emperors, of grand dames and fair princesses, has swept in stately
+procession down the hill-side to be followed in imagination by the
+footsteps of many of the greatest men in literature, science, and
+philosophy which Europe has brought forth, and by those of statesmen
+and diplomatists from every quarter of the globe.
+
+Returning to the château, we passed between it and the ancient house,
+when lo! a glance at the rear of the modern villa toward a
+second-story bay window under the spreading shade of a venerable tree
+told a new tale. I did not then know the history of the buildings, and
+it had seemed that only the low cottage was ancient, and the Roman
+villa comparatively modern. But here was a tell-tale slope of ancient
+roof, with a square port-hole of a window just beneath it, peeping
+forth behind the modern bay-window under the tree-tops, all out of
+harmony with the lines of Roman towers and roofs; and so we knew that
+the château was only modern in appearance, but ancient in reality.
+
+A day full of quiet beauty, not unmingled with delight, this had
+proved; worth to the heart, in some moods, acres of canvas and
+chiselled marble within the walls of royal museums. But we were not
+yet quite satisfied. In the Oranienburger Strasse in Berlin stands a
+city house of the last century. Here, with a serving-man as the real
+master of his house,--with no wife, no child,--the author of "Kosmos"
+did much of his best work.
+
+"I was often with my father in Humboldt's house during his lifetime,"
+said my German hostess to me, after my return from these visits. "He
+lived among his books, in his study in the back of the house,--the
+second story, looking into the court; for he could not bear the noise
+of the street in the front rooms."
+
+To this place we found our way in returning from Tegel. We stood
+before it in the street, and read the inscription on the marble tablet
+in the front wall: "In this house lived Alexander von Humboldt from
+the year 1842 till _he went forth_, May 6, 1859."
+
+Entering the street door, we inquired of the bright-eyed little
+daughter of the porter, who had been left in charge, if we could see
+the second floor, where Humboldt used to live. "No," said the child;
+"there is nothing to see. Others live there now. As for Humboldt, you
+can see his statue before the University!"
+
+The privilege of looking upon the home surroundings of Humboldt in
+Berlin was accorded us later, by an American gentleman into whose
+possession they had come. His massive old writing-desk, with a great
+mirror behind it, and deep drawers,--each bearing his seal,--where he
+kept his most valued curiosities and correspondence, and where now
+repose many of his autograph papers, is worth going far to see. Here,
+too, are a smaller writing-desk, his champagne glasses, quill pens,
+lamp-screen, candlestick, snuffers, and the last candle which he used.
+These and other significant and home-like memorials belong not to
+Germany, but to America, unless Germany repurchase them, as she
+should. Only in the house so long the home of their master will they
+fittingly repose, as the memorials of Goethe and Schiller adorn the
+homes that were theirs at Weimar.
+
+During the conversation with the child of the porter at the house in
+Oranienburger Strasse, I had looked into the large and pleasant court,
+and saw the great vine clambering up over the wall which must have
+been in sight from the study. Here doubtless it was that Bayard
+Taylor, the famous young traveller visiting the famous old traveller,
+had the interview which he described so vividly that at the distance
+of more than thirty years recorded bits of the conversation remain
+distinctly traced in our memory.
+
+"Humboldt showed me a chameleon," wrote Taylor, "remarking on its
+curious habit of casting one eye upward and the other downward at the
+same time,--'a faculty possessed also by some clergymen,'" added the
+facetious old man, as though he had discovered a new fact in natural
+history. Turning to a map of the Holy Land, Humboldt gave the young
+guest minute directions for his contemplated journey, until the very
+stones by the wayside seemed to grow familiar to the listener. "When
+were you there?" asked Mr. Taylor. "I was never there," replied
+Humboldt. "I prepared to go in 18--," naming a date thirty or forty
+years before. In such preparation for work lies an open secret of
+greatness.
+
+In the little cemetery at Tegel, which has now no vacant place,
+Humboldt's epitaph speaks to the living. His virtues and his faults
+are left to the judgment of the Omniscient. In the gallery of her
+great men Germany places the colossal figure of Humboldt beside that
+of Goethe. More than one century must pass before the place of either
+is finally determined in the perspective of history.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+PHILANTHROPIC WORK.
+
+
+This has many departments,--educational, humane, and religious.
+Although the churches of Berlin are sufficient for only a very small
+per cent of the population, many private and semi-public enterprises
+carried on by Christian people show a true spirit of devotion to the
+good of humanity.
+
+The "Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haüs" was established some years ago by a
+grand-niece of Froebel, who endeavors thus to carry out the principles
+of her great-uncle, whose instruction and companionship she enjoyed in
+her youth. Still in the prime of life, of gracious and winning
+presence, full of noble enthusiasm in doing good and of love for
+children; a devoted student of the principles and philosophy of
+education, ably seconded by her husband, who is a member of the
+Imperial Diet, and by other gentlemen and ladies of position and
+influence, and with the faithful assistance of teachers trained under
+her own supervision,--this lady already sees the ripening fruit of
+this renowned system of education.
+
+After struggling with obstacles at the outset, on account of limited
+means and lack of accommodations, the enterprise was finally
+established at No. 16 Steinmitz Strasse, by the generosity of two of
+the gentlemen referred to; and from the time it had a settled home,
+prosperity followed.
+
+"We wish to show that all work is honorable," said the Directress to
+me, "and our teachers are all _ladies_." The aim of the institution is
+to develop healthfully and fully the children committed to its care,
+and to prepare girls to be good mothers, Kindergarten teachers,
+housekeepers, and servants. There is thus a Kindergarten proper, with
+several departments; and a training-school with two grades, in one of
+which young ladies are received who are preparing to be educators,
+and in the other, girls to be trained for household work.
+
+No distinction is made in receiving rich and poor. Having learned by
+experience that the poor truly value only that for which they make
+some return, the managers set a price upon everything, except help in
+cases of sickness. In cases of extreme poverty some member of the
+committee pays the dues; and in illness, appliances and comforts,
+medicines, and the services of a trained nurse are furnished without
+charge whenever there is need.
+
+The Kindergarten had, at the time of my visit, over one hundred
+children, between the ages of two and seven years. The price of
+tuition is about twelve cents a month to the poor, and seventy-five
+cents per month to those able to pay this larger sum. The children are
+brought in the morning by the mothers or nurses, and taken away early
+in the afternoon. They are divided into groups of about a dozen, under
+supervision of the heads of the different departments, assisted by
+those who are learning the system in the normal or training school.
+Each group has, alternating with the others, garden-play and work, and
+house-guidance and help.
+
+We were first shown into a secluded walled garden-plot, covered only
+with clean sand. The children are disciplined by freedom, as well as
+healthful restraint. In this sand-garden they are free. With their
+little wooden shovels and spoons, and with their hands, they revel in
+the sand, as all healthy children do. They were no more abashed by our
+presence than tamed and petted birdlings would be to feed from the
+hand of those they had learned to love and trust.
+
+In the next garden, radiant with spring sunshine, a lady was
+surrounded by a group who were digging, planting, watering,--veteran
+gardeners of three and a half years. They are not free, but must learn
+obedience as well as gardening during the hour they spend here.
+Pansies in bloom bordered the regular beds and trim walks, and some
+were watering them from little water-pots. The stone wall around the
+four sides of the enclosure was covered by a vine just bursting into
+leaf. This had been trained, twig by twig, against the wall, by tiny
+fingers under the guidance of the lady in charge. A rustic
+summer-house contained a table, and seats of different heights. Here
+were seeds and implements for immediate use. Every stray leaf and bit
+of waste was brought by the children to a corner appropriated to it,
+covered with earth, and left to become dressing for the beds; thus
+teaching at once the chemistry of Nature and the value of neatness and
+economy. To another corner the children were encouraged to bring all
+the stones and shells they could find; and thus a rock-grotto was
+growing.
+
+From the gardens we went into the house. In the first room the
+two-year-olds were on low seats before a long table, where each had
+his six by ten inches of sand-plot, in which, with tiny wooden shovels
+and rakes, they were laying out garden beds and sticking in green
+leaves and cut pansies to make the wilderness blossom. Behind these
+were seats and tables for those who were a little older and could do
+real work. In a large tin dish-pan, two or three, under suitable
+supervision, were washing flower-pots with sponges and tepid water;
+others were filling the clean pots by taking spoonfuls of black loam
+from another pan; others, having been shown pansy plants with roots,
+and told that the plants took nourishment and drank water by means of
+these root-mouths, were pressing them carefully into the earth-filled
+pots and giving them water. In an anteroom two or three children were
+helping to wash the leaves of ivies and other plants, having had the
+office of the leaves simply explained. All was done with such care
+that the clean faces and garments of the children were not soiled, nor
+the floor and desks littered.
+
+"We try to make one idea the centre of thought for the week,--not to
+confuse the minds of the children by too much at once," said the
+Directress. "This week it is pansies." In the garden children were
+watering pansies in bloom, and pansies were cut and dug for use in the
+house, where they were the materials for play and work. In one room
+the children had cards in their hands, in which they had pricked the
+outlines of pansies. Each had a needle threaded with a color selected
+by itself, with which to work this outline. In another room they were
+painting pansies. At Easter time the lesson was on eggs. We were shown
+eggs colored by the children in their own devices, birds' nests,
+feathers, etc. One treasure, I remember, was a blue card on which a
+barn was outlined by straws sewed to the surface, showing roof,
+hayloft, and stairs, mounting which was a lordly fowl cut from white
+paper.
+
+One room is called "the baby room." At a long low table sat nearly
+twenty children, with dolls of every size and complexion, cradles,
+baby-wagons, changes of clothing for the dolls, beds, a tiny
+kitchen-range, with furniture, and every other accessory to doll life.
+
+The bathing is a department by itself. Every child is bathed, as a
+rule, when it is received. Then in the afternoon, once a week, many
+are brought for the regular weekly bath, which is so conducted as to
+make the children like it. The cost of the weekly bath is two and a
+half cents, and the children who are old enough often remind their
+mothers to save the small coin for this purpose.
+
+All the children are given a luncheon in the middle of the forenoon.
+Parents who desire it can have a dinner of good porridge also served
+to their children, about noon, at a cost of a little more than one
+cent.
+
+As the children approach the age of six, they enter the elementary
+class, where they have slates and pencils and a blackboard, and are
+taught the elements of reading. This is the only school exercise, so
+called, connected with the institution, and is to prepare the
+children to enter the public schools. After they leave the
+Kindergarten, some are received in the afternoons,--the girls to be
+taught sewing, and the boys carpentering.
+
+The last department shown to us was the music-room. Here the little
+ones stood, and counted, and beat double time, under the direction of
+a leader, to a slow, melodious air played on the piano. Then they
+marched, keeping step, and still counting the time. After this they
+took tambourines, triangles, drums, and clappers, and made a noise, in
+perfect time and tune.
+
+"Children like a noise," said the Directress. "Here they have it, but
+under direction and limitation. Some of the boys, when they are
+received here," continued the lady, "are so very, very naughty; but
+when they come to the music-class and have this noise, then they grow
+quiet and good. If it is taken away, they get naughty again."
+
+A religious atmosphere is sought, as the only one in which
+child-nature can normally develop. They have daily morning prayers and
+songs, religious books and pictures, such as "Christ blessing Little
+Children," and at Christmas time stories of the birth of Christ.
+Benevolence in their relations to one another is sedulously
+cultivated. The four-or-five-year-olds make little wooden spades and
+rakes for the two-or-three-year-olds, saying gravely, "We do it for
+the little ones."
+
+Meetings are held by the Directress with the mothers, and in several
+parts of the city three or four mothers have united in supporting
+little Kindergartens for their own families. The teaching of the
+Directress is also put in practice by mothers in their own homes,
+where much more time is devoted to the children than formerly.
+
+As applications are constantly on hand for more than can be received
+to this institution, I asked if the revenue from fees and gifts were
+devoted to the enlargement of the accommodations. "No; for
+_perfecting_ the system and its methods," was the reply. And this
+seemed to me to be the key to this most interesting undertaking. A
+perfect development of child-nature is sought; and a Kindergarten
+means here, "not several hours a day spent in much folding of papers
+and braiding of pretty things," said the Directress, but a many-sided
+and all-embracing culture of the whole being.
+
+Having given this full account of the methods of the Kindergarten, the
+description of the department for the training of teachers may be
+omitted. Not so with the department devoted to the preparation of
+girls who have left school for the duties of wives, mothers, nurses,
+housekeepers, and servants. In this important department of the
+Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haüs, over forty young women from the various ranks
+of life were gathered. It was under the special patronage of the Crown
+Princess, whose own daughters were its first pupils.
+
+The lady who directed the teaching of washing and ironing kept a close
+eye to the perfection of the work, which is all classified. At one
+time table-linen is washed and ironed properly; at another, the best
+methods of treating dish-towels are taught; at another, the washing of
+flannels and the doing up of prints and ginghams; at another,
+clear-starching, the cleansing of laces and fine materials; and so on,
+until the whole round of a family laundry has been scientifically
+taught and enforced by practice.
+
+In one room a girl of fourteen or fifteen, formerly a pupil in the
+Kindergarten, was washing windows and paint. Well dressed, she was
+poised on a step-ladder, polishing a large pane of glass with a
+chamois skin. Her pail of suds stood on the shining floor, with a bit
+of oil-cloth under it, that not a drop of water should touch the
+varnish. I involuntarily looked at the wall-paper along the edges of
+the window and door casings and baseboards, and saw that no careless
+washcloth had ever left its trail on a surface for which it was not
+designed. As I glanced back at the maiden, she was folding her towels
+and placing them in a covered basket, with a compartment for each.
+
+We were now conducted to the kitchen. It was a large and pleasant
+room, in the second or third story, with three double windows looking
+out on a beautiful garden, the floor a marble or tile mosaic, and the
+walls frescoed. Dainty curtains hung at the upper part of the windows,
+in such a way as not to exclude light or air. Opposite the windows was
+a large range, on which the dinner for the family and for various
+ladies who statedly dine in the institution was cooking. Two of the
+ten young ladies present were learning that difficult art,--the
+management of a fire so as to produce desired and exact results in
+cooking, themselves having the entire responsibility of feeding it and
+regulating the draughts. On a thin marble slab another was cutting
+fresh beef into bits, which she presently placed in a bottle for the
+purpose of preparing nourishment for a member of the family who was
+ill. The preparation of food for the sick is taught in all its
+branches with utmost care. Two had evidently reached that branch of
+the cooking art which involves the preparation of luxuries by delicate
+processes. They were seated apart, each stirring, drop by drop, oil or
+flavoring into a sauce.
+
+One of the principles taught is that of the utmost economy of
+material. The teachers, with the young ladies under instruction who
+desire it, and the nurses, constitute the family, and have good and
+wholesome food, all prepared by those who are learning cookery. The
+making of delicacies and expensive dishes is also taught; and these
+are served to certain ladies, who dine at the house to test these
+dishes, for perhaps three months at a time, gladly paying for the
+privilege. Shining tin and other utensils, wooden and iron ware of the
+most approved patterns, in every size and variety, were systematically
+ranged about the kitchen in a way really ornamental. At one side were
+weights and measures, where everything brought in was tested. A map of
+the world, showing the productions of every zone and country, hung
+beside the sugar and spice table; and beside it was a glass cupboard,
+containing phials showing the analysis of every article of food. One
+small table was devoted to good and bad samples of household food
+supplies, the samples being in cubical boxes about an inch and a half
+each way, set into a large box with compartments, the whole so
+arranged as to show easily the qualities to be desired and those not
+to be desired by the purchaser. The book-keeper had her desk and
+account-books, where the amount of every article purchased and its
+cost were duly entered.
+
+The superintendent of the kitchen, with fine and ladylike courtesy,
+showed us her book of written questions, which those under her charge
+were required to be able to answer both from a scientific and a
+practical standpoint.
+
+One department of this domestic school is the supervision of a
+milk-route. The children of Berlin, like those of all large cities,
+especially among the poor, suffer for want of milk, or of that which
+is good. Here the milk of two or three large dairies in the country is
+bought by the Kindergarten committee. It costs them, by wholesale,
+much less than people in the city pay for poor milk. This good milk
+is supplied at a low price by an attendant, who is directed to carry
+the milk into the dwelling, instead of requiring the poor mother to
+leave her children and go to the wagon for it, as is the general
+custom.
+
+In the sewing-room mending and darning alternate, on certain days,
+with the cutting and making of plain garments. This department
+supplements the teaching of sewing in the public schools by
+instruction in only the higher kinds of plain sewing, and the surgery
+required to make "old clothes almost as good as new."
+
+Every part of the duty and work of an ordinary nurse is taught, like
+all the other departments, with the utmost faithfulness and
+excellence; and this department was supported by the Crown Princess.
+As we passed from the bathing-department, we met a sweet-faced nurse
+going out, who immediately returned with us, throwing off her alpaca
+duster, and showing, unasked, her private rooms to the unexpected
+American visitors with the greatest cordiality and the most ladylike
+grace. Refinement and perfect order characterized the rooms. There
+were closets with shelves filled with bed-linen and undergarments for
+the sick in every size. This bedding and clothing is loaned to the
+sick poor without charge, on the sole condition that they shall return
+it clean. The washed and ironed articles neatly piled and folded
+bespoke both gratitude and faithfulness on the part of beneficiaries.
+Water-beds and other appliances for the use and comfort of the sick
+were stored in another place, and in still another were garments kept
+for gifts to the convalescent and particularly needy. As the nurse
+kneeled to replace a water-bed she had been showing us, the Lady
+Director lifted an ornament which she wore about her neck on a silver
+chain. Her color deepened prettily, as we saw that it was the monogram
+of the Crown Princess in silver, bestowed only for brave and specially
+meritorious service in nursing.
+
+If Germany is too slow, as we believe, in according to women the
+opportunity for higher education, surely this institution sets a noble
+example in that which to the world in general is of vast and
+incalculable importance.
+
+A mission to the cabmen of Berlin is conducted by a benevolent lady
+with great modesty but with most eminent success. The Berlin cabman
+is a picturesque object In summer he wears a dark blue suit with
+silvered buttons, a vest and collar of scarlet, and a black hat with a
+cockade and a white or yellow band. In winter, a great Astrakhan cap
+with tassels surmounts his bronzed features, he is enveloped in a long
+blue great-coat with a cape, and his feet are encased in immense boots
+with soles often from one to two inches thick. The covered carriage
+known as a drosky is a rather lumbering vehicle on four wheels.
+Formerly every one rode in these droskies, the fares being very low.
+But within a few years the tram-car, which is increasingly popular,
+has diverted patronage from the cabs, and the times are hard for the
+cabman. He must pay a certain sum to the company which controls the
+cabs, for the use and keeping of the horse and vehicle; must purchase
+his uniform at his own expense; and if his receipts bring him anything
+over and above these outlays, he has the surplus for the support of
+himself and family. How the average cabman in Berlin manages in this
+way to live, is a mystery. His family must dwell in a cellar or attic,
+or eke out their subsistence by taking lodgers, washing, or by any
+other means which they can find. All must live on insufficient food;
+and this, with constant exposure to the weather and enforced idleness
+much of the time, is a constant temptation to drinking-habits.
+Beer-shops are numerous near the cab-stands; and the small change in
+the cabman's pocket often goes into their coffers, when it should be
+saved for the poor wife and children in his wretched home.
+
+About twenty years ago a German lady of noble birth, an invalid,
+employed as her substitute in doing good among the poor a Christian
+widow, whom she instructed to go out among the cabmen and their
+families. This work is still under the supervision of the lady who
+began it, and, now restored to health, she gives a large part of her
+time and means to this mission, assisted by a deaconess and six
+Bible-women under her direction, who reach the families of about eight
+hundred cabmen. If possible, the cabman is won, often through his
+family; and sometimes the long idle hours on his drosky-box are
+beguiled by the memorizing of verses from the little Testament given
+him to carry in his pocket. Then a circulating library is kept
+constantly in use by the Bible-woman, who carries a book in her bag to
+each house which she visits, leaving it until her round again gives
+the opportunity of taking it up and putting another in its place. Best
+of all is the friendship which springs up between these poor people
+and their helpers. Doubt, anxiety, trouble, misfortune, all find
+loving sympathy; and when serious illness comes, especially in
+contagious and malignant diseases, when friends and neighbors flee,
+then this mission brings light into the darkness. The deaconess is
+also a trained nurse, to whom a yearly stipend is given, that she may
+devote her entire time to the work; and she is constantly going from
+one family to another, as scarlet-fever, diphtheria, and other
+diseases call for her help.
+
+As a special favor, I was allowed, with a few other American friends,
+to be present at an evening tea-meeting, such as are held frequently
+for the cabmen and their wives. An opening hymn, in which all joined,
+was sung; a passage of Scripture was read, and prayer offered. A
+"Gospel song" was well sung by a German gentleman as a solo, and then
+there was a familiar address from the eloquent Court-preacher Frommel.
+Another prayer followed, another song, and then the tea was served.
+
+In a side room, separated by sliding doors from the audience, I had
+noticed, when we entered, ladies flitting about long tables and
+hovering over white china. The Countess Waldersee was there, in simple
+apparel, helping to pass the tea and abundant cakes and sandwiches, as
+were also two granddaughters of Chevalier Bunsen, and other
+representatives of honorable and noble Christian families.
+
+Meantime the Baroness who is the cherishing mother of this work was
+helping, as occasion required; both she and her deaconess going from
+one row of seats to another, speaking a friendly word here, bestowing
+a greeting or answering an inquiry there, and unconsciously followed
+by a wake of happiness everywhere. As the wounded soldiers in Crimean
+hospitals turned to kiss the shadow of Florence Nightingale passing
+them, there was surely gladness in hearts and on faces here that would
+have counted it a privilege to kiss the place hallowed by the
+footsteps of these Christian women.
+
+About four hundred were present in the plain Moravian Chapel which is
+always used for these tea-meetings. Fewer men than women were present,
+as many of the cabmen must be at their posts until near midnight.
+From time to time the Bible-woman at the door softly opened it for the
+entrance of one who had thought it better to come late than not at
+all. As these men in their picturesque garb came, cold and hungry,
+into the warm and well-lighted room, I looked to see if their physical
+wants were supplied before they were asked to partake of the spiritual
+feast. To my great satisfaction I discerned that a well-filled table
+had been spread just inside the entrance-door, from which they were
+served as soon as chairs had been handed them; and from time to time
+great motherly tea-pots went the rounds, to fill all cups a second
+time. When they had been warmed and fed, they often moved forward to
+be nearer the speakers; and when the exercises were over, one and
+another found his wife in the audience, and together they went out. As
+this was going forward, a parting hymn was struck, which seemed to
+form no part of the programme. Inquiring, I was told that this was
+always sung in parting, in remembrance of an occasion very sad, but
+also very precious, to their benefactress.
+
+The sullen roar of a great coming conflict of social elements breaks
+on the shore of every land, now rising, now lulling, but every day
+drawing nearer. The simple chapel of this scene is little more than a
+stone's-throw from the palace of the Chancellor of the German Empire.
+Here, in sympathy and helpfulness, and not there, in absolutism, will
+be heard the Voice which only can say, "Peace, be still!"--the Voice
+which says to-day, as of old, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of
+the least of these, ye have done it unto me."
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association of Berlin has the hearty
+sympathy and assistance of Count Bernsdorff, lately an officer of the
+Empress Augusta's household and well known in diplomatic circles, of
+Court-preacher Frommel, and others widely known in other spheres of
+influence. Its intelligence-office has had nearly fifty thousand calls
+for advice and help in a single year, and twenty committees from its
+membership actively co-operate in different lines of work. Besides its
+various religious meetings, daily and weekly, at which there was an
+aggregate attendance of between fifteen and twenty thousand in one
+recent year, it maintains a well-equipped reading-room and library, a
+hall for gymnastic exercises, and fine reception-rooms. Tea-meetings
+are also frequently held here; and two courses of lectures in English
+and two courses in French are given, besides courses of instruction in
+stenography and book-keeping. A male quartette gives frequent musical
+entertainments, and in one winter thirteen "musical evenings" held
+forth manifold attractions to this music-loving people.
+
+The Committee of Ladies co-operating in this work assists in obtaining
+positions, manages tea-meetings, etc.; and the management asserts that
+it increasingly realizes "how important is the eye and hand of woman
+in all its work." The magnificent gardens and park attached to the War
+Department were, during our visit to Berlin, opened on a beautiful May
+afternoon and evening, by the co-operation of the Countess Waldersee
+and under the patronage of the Prince and Princess William, to a
+promenade concert for the benefit of this Association. Two of the
+finest military bands alternated in rendering popular and classical
+music; and few who were present will ever forget the striking scene,
+where, amid the flower-bordered lawns, under sunset skies slowly
+fading through the long twilight into the gayly lighted evening,
+hundreds of ladies and gentlemen, some in bright military uniforms,
+some with the insignia of rank, and some with only the stamp of
+Nature's noblemen, gathered about the refreshment-tables, chatted in
+groups apart, or sauntered along the fine old avenues under the
+towering trees or beside the lakes and fountains, the hours seeming
+all too short under the inspiration of the place and the music. Prince
+William, always in uniform, and the charming Princess, on this
+occasion in the simplest and plainest dress, mingled quietly with the
+company. As we passed out through the great gateway between nine and
+ten o'clock, the steeds of their State carriage were champing, and
+pawing the pavement of the quadrangle, held in check by the officials
+who were awaiting their return.
+
+The Crown Princess Frederick was the patroness of nearly every
+undertaking in Berlin for the good of women and children, and, with
+her noble husband, often visited among them. "On one occasion," said a
+German lady to me, "some one asked of the Crown Prince the particulars
+of a certain benevolent enterprise. 'Ask my wife,' replied the Prince;
+'she knows everything,'" It is certain that, from Kindergarten and
+other schools, to cooking-schools, training-schools for nurses,
+hospitals, and a school for the daughters of officers who would be
+taught art, literature, science, as a practical help in the battle of
+self-support, there seemed to be no enterprise which could not count
+as its chief patron the Crown Princess Victoria. The aged Empress
+Augusta was also the patron of girls' schools and soup-kitchens, to
+the number of more than a dozen, and was counted by many the especial
+friend of the very poor.
+
+One of the most interesting institutions to which we had access was
+founded upwards of twenty years ago by Dr. Adolph Lette, of Berlin,
+whose plans have since his death been faithfully carried out by his
+daughter, Frau Schepeler-Lette, who devotes nearly her entire time to
+its supervision. It was also under the patronage of the Crown
+Princess. Its object is to promote the higher education and practical
+industry of women, and to render single and friendless women the help
+and protection so much needed in all large cities. Many English and
+some American girls have reason to bless this institution, which knows
+no rank, no nationality, but only need, as the password to its
+gracious and abounding ministries.
+
+One of its departments is the Charlotten-Stiftung, intended to help
+destitute daughters of German noblemen and military and civil officers
+to earn their own livelihood by giving them a practical education,
+especially in dress-making, cooking, and the management of a
+household. This department was founded and endowed by a noble German
+lady with property yielding an annual income of nearly twenty thousand
+dollars.
+
+Another department is the Bank of Loans. Its object is to assist
+unmarried women in establishing and maintaining shops, especially
+those who wish to establish business in some art-industry. No
+individual loan is to exceed one hundred and fifty dollars, and each
+is to be repaid in small instalments at five per cent interest. One
+per cent of the loan is to be repaid within four weeks after it is
+made, and the remainder in small specified sums fortnightly. The
+annual income of the "Bank of Loans" is about two thousand dollars.
+
+These departments, though most successful, are subordinate in interest
+to the main work of the Lette-Verein, as at present conducted, which
+has a commercial training-school, a school of industry and drawing,
+and a school of fine arts.
+
+The commercial school offers two courses, of one and two years
+respectively. Girls and women, married or unmarried, are there offered
+the advantages of thorough instruction in writing and stenography,
+commercial reckoning and correspondence, book-keeping, knowledge of
+goods, commerce, banking affairs, and money matters in general.
+Lessons in French, English, and German, in Grammar, Geography,
+Correspondence, and Conversation, are also given. The fee for tuition
+is about forty dollars per annum.
+
+We were much interested in the School of Industry. Here were girls and
+women, mostly young, in bright, cheery, and well-lighted rooms, going
+through all stages of graded and scientific instruction in the cutting
+and making of dresses, mantles, and underwear, plain needlework, and
+in all kinds of embroidery and lace-work. The use of a sewing-machine
+is taught in a term of two months, six lessons each week. Millinery in
+all branches, the making of the finest artificial flowers by French
+methods, glove-making by machinery, and hair-dressing are practically
+carried on for the instruction of those who wish to learn these
+industries.
+
+A school of cookery, in which we were allowed to inspect the
+scientific classification and analysis of provisions and to test the
+appetizing results of numerous ladylike pupils in various stages of
+proficiency, impressed us with the inestimable value of its training.
+
+In all these departments the pupils are expected to pay moderate fees,
+varying from twenty-five cents to one dollar per week; and entrance to
+any department can be made on the first of every month.
+
+Two lessons per week are given in the science of teaching, for a term
+of six months.
+
+The Employment Bureau has a vast correspondence, and is an agency of
+great good, as a medium of communication between women and girls in
+want of positions, and the employers of labor.
+
+A school and lodging-house for the training of servant-girls has been
+much called for, and has lately been started.
+
+The Drawing-School has a seminary for the training of teachers, and a
+school for teaching the different branches of industrial drawing.
+There are free-hand drawing from copies and plaster models,
+perspective and geometrical drawing, the drawing and painting of
+ornamental and practical designs, and flower-painting on wood, china,
+and paper, with thorough courses of one and two years in the History
+of Art. Modelling in clay, wax, and designs for gold and silver
+industry, bronzes, etc., are given eight hours in each week.
+
+There is also a school of type-setting in connection with the Berlin
+Typographical Company, in which female compositors over the age of
+sixteen may be received, to the number of thirty-six, under the close
+supervision of the Lette-Verein, and at which, after an apprenticeship
+of six months, all pupils are paid for their work.
+
+There is a boarding-house, called the Victoria-Stift, in connection
+with this institution, with a _café_ or refreshment-room, where the
+tables are supplied, to ladies, at economical prices, from the
+cooking-school. It has also a lending-library and a Victoria Bazar,
+where all kinds of needlework done by the pupils are offered for sale,
+and orders are taken for family sewing.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+AROUND BERLIN.
+
+
+Berlin, on account of its general healthfulness and its combination of
+economical and other attractions, is esteemed by many experienced
+travellers as, on the whole, the continental city best adapted to an
+extended residence abroad. To the visitor with limited time, the city
+itself and Potsdam--"the Prussian Versailles"--monopolize the
+attention. But to those who can spend more time there, the attractive
+environs and places which may be seen within the limits of a day's
+excursion are many and varied.
+
+Grünewald, not far beyond Charlottenburg, is the seat of a royal
+hunting-lodge, and its fine old woods are most attractive. It may be
+reached by railway and steam-tram, and also, in summer, by water. The
+extensive forest occupies a great stretch of country below the
+junction of the Spree with the Havel, which here, on the west, loiters
+and meanders and turns upon itself; now spreading out into wide lakes,
+now narrowing to a thread, but finally reaching in its dubious course
+the wide-flowing Elbe. The great bay into which the Havel here expands
+has pretty islands and shores. Pichelsberg, at the northern extremity
+of the bay, is a place of popular resort, where observation of Nature
+is rather concentrated on that branch known as human nature. Wansee,
+at the southern extremity, is picturesque and rural,--a delightful
+place in which to spend a quiet day in early summer.
+
+Spandau, eight miles west of Berlin, at the junction of the Spree with
+the Havel, has much historical and military interest. Here, surrounded
+by immense fortifications, is the workshop of the German army; and
+here in the citadel, or old "Julius tower," are kept "the sinews of
+war," in the form of a reserve military fund of from fifteen million
+to thirty million dollars.
+
+The railway toward Hanover leads on from Spandau to the long-settled
+region near the crossing of the Elbe, which here flows northward
+between high banks. Not far from the Elbe is the railway station of
+Schönhausen, some two hours' ride from Berlin. The estate of
+Schönhausen had been in the Bismarck family two hundred and fifty
+years, when the Chancellor was born there in 1815. Later, this old
+family inheritance passed to other ownership; but the numerous friends
+and admirers of the great diplomatist repurchased it, and presented it
+to him on his seventieth birthday, April 1, 1885. The great
+gratification of possessing this ancient home hardly induces Prince
+von Bismarck to spend much time there. Possibly it is within too easy
+reach of his cares in the capital. The distant Friedrichsruh in the
+forest of Sachsenswald, within a dozen miles of Hamburg, and more than
+one hundred and fifty miles northwest of Berlin, is his favorite
+residence; and Varzin, upwards of two hundred miles to the northeast,
+in Baltic Pomerania, sometimes wins him to its still greater quiet and
+seclusion. Here Bismarck received our countryman, the historian
+Motley, and his daughter, with the delightful welcome to companionship
+and the simple and informal family life so charmingly portrayed in
+Motley's correspondence.
+
+The whole region of Schönhausen was as early settled as Berlin itself.
+Fine old churches, castles, and mediæval town walls mark the
+neighboring towns of Stendal and Tangermünde, the latter the long-time
+seat of the Margraves of Brandenburg.
+
+A short détour from the main line to the northwest of Berlin brings
+one to Fehrbellin, where the Great Elector defeated a Swedish army
+double the size of his own. In the same region are Neu Ruppin and
+Rheinsberg, each connected with many memories of the youth of
+Frederick the Great. At the Castle of Rheinsberg he spent the
+comparatively happy years of his unhappy married life. His neglected
+queen, who never saw his favorite palace at Sans Souci, and who was
+wife and queen only in name for many long years, said that the early
+days at Rheinsberg were her happiest. Though these places are hardly
+more than thirty miles northwest of Berlin, lack of railway
+connections renders it impracticable to visit them in a single day.
+
+The most direct thoroughfare to Copenhagen, that by way of Rostock,
+passes, outside the elevated railway known as the Ringbahn, the
+village of Pankow, also reached by tramway, and also once the
+residence of the Queen of Frederick the Great. This road leads north
+from Berlin, at first through a country dotted with lakes. Our memory
+of these is of beautiful sheets of water, surrounded by the green of
+mid-June, and over-arched by the blue sky and the fleecy cumuli of a
+perfect summer day. The characteristic North German landscape was here
+seen to fine advantage. The color of the cottages and farm-houses
+harmonizes or contrasts beautifully with the landscape. Roofs of brown
+weather-beaten thatch or of dull red tiles, in the midst of embowering
+trees and shrubbery, formed for us pictures of beauty long to be
+remembered. Frienwalde, to the northeast, has mineral springs in the
+most attractive part of Brandenburg, and is growing as a place of
+summer resort. The fine old monastery, and the ruined early Gothic
+abbey-church of Chorin on the Stettin Railway, the burial-place of the
+Margraves of Brandenburg, are interesting to all students of
+architecture.
+
+An eastern suburb of Berlin is Köpenick, in the château of which the
+youthful Frederick the Great was tried for his life by court-martial,
+by order of his tyrannical father; and in the same direction, an hour
+from Berlin by express-train, is Cüstrin, whose strong castle was the
+scene of his subsequent imprisonment, and where, in sight from his
+window, his noble friend, Lieutenant von Katte, was beheaded on the
+ramparts for no other crime than fidelity to his young master.
+
+Another most interesting excursion is that to Frankfort-on-the-Oder,
+two hours eastward of Berlin. This largest city of Brandenburg outside
+the capital has a varied history, dating from before the time when
+this region was won from the heathen Slavs to Germany and
+Christianity. This old stronghold of the Wendish race saw many
+vicissitudes in the great wars of the sixteenth and seventeenth
+centuries, being the last important place on the great trading-route
+from Poland to Berlin. It has annual fairs which are relics of these
+olden times, interesting mediæval churches, and a town-house bearing
+on its gable the device of the Hanseatic League,--an oblique rod
+supported by a shorter perpendicular one.
+
+To the southeast, a few miles out on the Görlitz Railway, is
+Wusterhausen, in the picturesque region of the frequented
+Müggelsberge,--itself made memorable by an episode in Carlyle's pages.
+
+No more fascinating trip can be taken in summer, after Berlin and
+Potsdam have been visited, than to the wild and beautiful
+Spreewald,--a combination of forest and morass not yet wholly redeemed
+to the civilization of Europe, but holding in its remoter depths a
+genuine relic of the old barbarism. The Görlitz Railway skirts this
+forest for twenty-five miles before reaching Lübben, some two hours
+from Berlin in a southerly direction. This is the best point of
+departure from the train for a visit to the forest, which is cut by
+more than two hundred arms of the Spree, some parts of the wood only
+to be reached by boats or skates. Here, in their villages reclaimed
+from the swamps, live the descendants of the aboriginal Wends, who
+have preserved intact their language, their manners, and their modes
+of dress. This Venice of North-central Germany has for streets the
+water-ways of the Spree, and for palaces the log huts of the
+aboriginal race; but no views of Nature are more exquisite than some
+of those in the Upper and Lower Spreewald.
+
+Twenty-two miles west of Potsdam, on the Havel, is the city of
+Brandenburg,--the old Brennabor of the Slavic people who fortified it
+before the beginning of modern history. The Castle of Brandenburg may
+share with the celebrated and beautiful one of Meissen, near Dresden,
+the honor of being the oldest in Germany. Conquered from the original
+owners by the Emperor Henry I. in 927, it was by them retaken. More
+than two centuries afterwards, Albert the Bear captured and kept it,
+and thenceforth styled himself First Margrave of Brandenburg. For six
+hundred years this old town shared in all the strifes of that
+turbulent and passionate time between the midnight of the Dark Ages
+and the dawn of modern history, and its old buildings will tell much
+of its forgotten story to any one who lays his ear beside their
+ancient stones to hear.
+
+At Steglitz, a southwest suburb, may be seen the mulberry plantation
+and the one silk manufactory of Berlin. It was not our lot to find the
+large nurseries and hot-houses which make the flower-shops and
+market-places of Berlin exquisitely radiant with blossoms at all
+seasons,--beyond even the famous Madeleine flower-market at Paris in
+the season when we visited it--and, if so, surpassing in this respect
+all other cities.
+
+One of the two routes to Dresden and Leipsic passes Lichterfelde, five
+miles from Berlin, where conspicuous buildings are the seat of the
+chief cadet-school in Germany. Here are accommodations for eight or
+nine hundred cadets, the flower of German youth. Neither pains nor
+expense has been spared in the erection and embellishment of these
+extensive buildings. The "Flensburg Lion," erected by the Danes to
+commemorate a former victory in Schleswig-Holstein over the Prussians,
+and later captured by the latter, stands here before the house of the
+Commandant.
+
+Five or six miles farther on is Gross-Beeren, a Napoleonic battlefield
+where Bülow won a victory over the French in 1813; and about an hour
+and a half from Berlin, in the same direction, is the little city of
+Jüterbok, with interesting old edifices. The student of the
+Reformation will feel most interest in this place as that where Tetzel
+was selling his famous "indulgences" when Luther, protesting in
+righteous wrath, nailed to the door of the Wittenberg Church the
+ninety-five theses which set all Germany ablaze. One of these
+"indulgences" is kept for inspection in the Nicolai Kirche of
+Jüterbok. Near by are the old Cistercian abbey of Zinna, and another
+battlefield, Dennewitz, an important strategic point in one of the
+campaigns against the First Napoleon, where the victory of Bülow over
+Ney and Oudinot saved Berlin from the hands of the enemy.
+
+No student of history--especially no Protestant--can afford to visit
+Berlin without an excursion to Wittenberg, which may either be
+compressed into a single day, with a few hours in this old University
+town which was the cradle of the Reformation, or may be pleasantly
+prolonged to days full of musing on the manifold phases of that
+unparalleled movement in the history of religious thought, amid the
+very scenes with which they were most intimately associated. Not alone
+that Germany is to-day what Luther, more than any other man, has made
+it, but as heirs to the inheritance which he bequeathed to all lands
+and ages, are Americans called to the profound study of the epoch
+which Luther shaped, and of which our age is but a part. Of all
+intense pleasures, none to us was greater than a humble pilgrimage
+through Germany where our feet were set in the footprints of the
+Reformer.
+
+Quaint Eisleben, with the house where he was born, and that in whose
+chamber he was suddenly stricken with mortal pain, while his companions
+watched with awe the passing to higher service of that valiant soul, we
+had visited before we looked upon Wittenberg. Mansfield, too, with its
+flaming forges and its vast cinder-heaps,--where Hans Luther, the
+miner, toiled to feed his wife and babes,--we had seen; and historic
+Erfurt, with memories of the University where he studied and the
+monastery into which he went, taking with him, of all his books, only
+his Plautus and his Virgil, to study the Latin Bible chained to its
+post, and to fight that mental battle which toughened his sinews for
+the world-conflicts awaiting him; and whence he emerged at the call of
+his Superior, a young priest of twenty-five years, to take the
+professorship offered him at the new University of Wittenberg. At
+lovely Eisenach we had tarried for days; had entered the door of the
+once grand house of the burgomaster Cotta, before which little Martin,
+with the other charity boys of the school near by, had sung Christmas
+carols for his bread, and where he had been taken to the heart and the
+home of Mother Ursula; had peeped into the room there that was his,
+and been driven up the mountain-side beyond the village whose crown is
+the fine old castle of the Wartburg; had stood at the solitary casement
+of the room where he fought with the devil, and looked out over the
+magnificent panorama of wooded mountains and beautiful valley where he
+looked forth day after day of those ten months of mysterious
+imprisonment, into which friendly hands had thrust him from the thick
+of the fight,--where he saw the miracle of spring-time creeping over
+the hills and waving trees far beneath him, and heard and felt the
+wintry winds howl around his solitude. He was only thirty-five, but he
+had already come into conflict with the mightiest power on earth, and
+his life was forfeited, when here he slowly came to know that God had
+thoughts of good and not of evil concerning him; and here he began
+another work,--the translation of the New Testament,--for which he
+never would have had time if left to himself. Eisenach, with its
+dramatic situation, perhaps lingers longest in the memory of men of any
+place connected with that great story. But if it bore a more poetic
+share, it was not the most important. It was neither at Leipsic nor at
+Heidelberg, at Nüremberg nor at Speyer, at Augsburg nor even at Worms,
+that the great drama had its chief location, though memories of Luther
+were to us among the conspicuous attractions of these places.
+
+From the time when the young monk emerged from Erfurt, where his
+preparation for life was made, until at sixty-three he had "finished
+his course," Wittenberg was his only home. For thirty-eight long years
+here his heart was, and here, like the needle to the pole, the
+direction of his activities constantly turned. Here, in the old
+Augustinian monastery, is the lecture-room and the ancient "cathedra"
+from which he delivered those lectures which laid the foundation of
+his fame in the early years of his professorship. Here he quietly
+wrought at his translation of the Bible and discharged the duties of
+his position, while his voice shook the world, and all Europe was
+swaying in the storm, himself the calm centre of the whirlwind. Here,
+at the age of forty-two, he brought his bride, the nun Katherine von
+Bora; and in this monastery, presented to him by his friend the
+Elector, his six children were born. Hither, when his work was done,
+his lifeless form was borne, followed by a weeping funeral procession
+which stretched across Germany; and here in the church which had been
+the scene of so many great sermons, he was laid to rest, with room for
+Melanchthon beside him. Here one may enter that other church where he
+first administered the communion in both kinds to the laity; may read
+the immortal theses, now in enduring bronze on the doors of the castle
+church; may pluck a leaf from the oak-tree planted on the spot outside
+the city gate where he burned the papal bull; may sit in the
+window-seat of his family-room, surrounded by his table, his bench,
+and his stove, and listen where that family music seems still to echo;
+may wander in the old garden, amid the representatives of the trees
+which shaded him, and the flowers and birds he loved; may sit at the
+stone table in Melanchthon's garden where the names of the friends are
+inscribed; may stand before their statues in the market-place and hear
+his voice: "If it be God's work, it will endure; if man's, it will
+perish."
+
+As we live over these days and realize afresh all that history can
+tell us of the wondrous story, we know that not the polish and the
+learning of its scientists, its philosophers, and its men of letters,
+not the prowess of its soldiers and its military leaders, have made
+United Germany possible, but that Bible which Luther translated for
+the German people,--that standard of the German tongue which through
+all the conflicts of three centuries and a half has defied the power
+of diverse interests, and cemented and preserved the integrity of the
+nation.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+Academy of Arts and Sciences, 53.
+
+American Chapel, 91-93.
+
+American Thanksgiving Banquet, 94.
+
+Americans in Berlin, 98, 188.
+
+Antiquarium, 105.
+
+Apartments, 15.
+
+Army, 139.
+
+Army Bill, debate on, 127.
+
+Arsenal, 111-113.
+
+Art Collections, 108-110.
+
+
+Babelsburg, 206-208.
+
+Bach's Passion Music, 147.
+
+Bank, Imperial, 193.
+
+Belle Alliance Platz, 190.
+
+Berlin,
+  Cathedral, 79.
+  Cathedral service, 80.
+  character of, 9, 249.
+  church attendance, 82.
+  climate, 14.
+  latitude, 14.
+  Old Berlin, 172.
+  parade, 141.
+
+Bethanien, 194.
+
+Birthdays, 20.
+
+Bismarck, Chancellor von, 125-130, 154, 156, 171, 251.
+  palace of, 175, 183.
+
+Bornstedt, 203.
+
+Börse, 84, 193.
+
+Botanical Gardens, 189.
+
+Brandenburg, Castle and City of, 256.
+
+Brandenburg Gate, 179, 187.
+
+Bülow, Frau von, 212, 214.
+
+Bundesrath, 131.
+
+
+Cabmen's Mission, 235.
+
+Cemeteries,
+  Dorotheen-Stadt, 191.
+  Garrison Kirche, 191.
+  Matthai, 189.
+  Sophien Kirche, 191.
+
+Charlottenburg, 196, 198-201, 215.
+  Mausoleum at, 200.
+
+Charlottenhof, 205.
+
+Chorin, 253.
+
+Christmas, 21.
+
+Churches of Berlin,
+  Cathedral, 79.
+  Chapel, American, 91.
+  English, 90.
+  French, 85.
+  Garrison, 82, 86.
+  Heiliggeist, 84.
+  Jerusalems, 85.
+  Kloster, 84.
+  Marien. 84.
+  New, 85.
+  Nicolai, 82, 85.
+  Trinity, 87.
+
+City Prison, 193.
+
+Closets, 16.
+
+Concerts, 48-50.
+
+Cornelius, cartoons, 107.
+
+Crown Prince Frederick, 100, 102.
+  as Emperor, 111, 142-151, 171, 195-199.
+  birthplace, 205.
+  new palace, Friedrichskron, 196, 205.
+  funeral service, 102.
+
+Crown Princess Victoria, 91, 100, 102, 143, 145, 146, 152, 154,
+  206-208, 244, 246.
+
+Cüstrin, 254.
+
+
+Dennewitz, 258.
+
+Donhof Platz, 190.
+
+Dryander, 87.
+
+
+Easter, 35.
+
+Educational system, 59-61.
+
+Eisenach, 259, 260.
+
+Eisleben, 259.
+
+Elevators, 11.
+
+Emperor Wm. I., 81, 95, 100, 133, 136-138, 177, 186.
+  ninetieth birthday, 159-166.
+  palace, 195.
+  burial-place, 201.
+
+Emperor Wm. II. (Prince William, 130), 151, 205, 208.
+  Princess William, 152.
+
+English Church, 90.
+
+Erfurt, 259.
+
+
+Fehrbellin, 252.
+
+Fichte, grave of, 191.
+
+Fouqué, De la Motte, grave of, 191.
+
+Frankfort-on-Oder, 254.
+
+Frederick Wm. I., 204.
+
+Frederick II. (the Great), 196, 204, 252-254.
+  statue of, 180.
+
+Frederick Wm. III., 135, 200.
+
+Frederick Wm. IV., 136, 200, 203.
+
+Friedrichsruh, 251.
+
+Frienwalde, 253.
+
+Frommel, 86.
+
+Funerals, 30.
+
+Furniture, 16-18.
+
+
+German Army, 139.
+
+Germany, a military power, 10.
+
+Good Friday, 33, 34.
+
+Great Elector, statue of, 173, 182.
+
+Grimm brothers, graves of, 189.
+
+Gross-Beeren, 257.
+
+Grünewald, 249.
+
+Gymnasia, 59-61.
+
+
+Hanse League, 192.
+  device of, 254.
+
+Hegel, grave of, 191.
+
+Hildesheim, silver service, 105.
+
+Hospitals, 194.
+
+Humboldt, Alexander von, 81, 85, 205, 210-220.
+
+Humboldt, William von, 209-214.
+
+
+Insane Asylum, 194.
+
+
+Jews,
+  synagogue, 90.
+    music, 88-90.
+    service, 88-90.
+
+Jüterbok, 257.
+
+
+Kaiserhof, 11.
+
+Kaulbach, frescos, 107.
+
+Knights of Malta, 185.
+
+Köln, 172.
+
+Köpenick, 253.
+
+Kreuzberg, 190.
+
+
+Lette-Verein,
+  Bank of Loans, 245.
+  Charlotten-Stiftung, 245.
+  Commercial School, 246.
+  Drawing School, 247.
+  Employment Bureau, 247.
+  School of Industry, 246.
+  School of Type-setting, 248.
+  Victoria-Stift, 248.
+
+Library, Royal, 54-58.
+
+Lichterfelde, 257.
+
+Lodgings, 12.
+
+Lübben, 255.
+
+Lüneberg, silver service, 123.
+
+Luther, 80, 84, 258-260, 263.
+
+
+Manners, 23-26.
+
+Mansfield, 259.
+
+Mausoleum, 200.
+
+Meals, 14, 30, 45-47.
+
+Mendelssohn, Fanny, 132.
+
+Mendelssohn, Felix, 132.
+
+Mendelssohn family, graves of, 191.
+
+Mint, Imperial, 193.
+
+Moabit, 193.
+
+Moltke, General von, 127-130, 156, 171.
+
+Museums,
+  Ethnographical, 123.
+  Hohenzollern, 118-120.
+  Industrial, 121-123.
+  Märkische, 124.
+  National Gallery, 107, 173, 174.
+  New, 105.
+    Coins, 106.
+    Engravings, 107.
+    Sculpture, 106.
+  Old, 103, 108, 174, 182.
+
+
+Napoleon I., 177, 180.
+
+Napoleon III., 146, 200.
+
+Neander, home of, 185.
+  grave of, 190.
+
+Neu Ruppin, 252.
+
+
+Old Schloss, Berlin, 173, 182, 196-198.
+
+
+Pankow, 253.
+
+Parishes, 82.
+
+Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haüs, 221.
+  domestic department, 230.
+  Kindergarten, 223-229.
+
+Pichelsberg, 250.
+
+Postal system, 118.
+
+Potsdam, 201.
+  Babelsburg, 206.
+  Friedenskirche, 101, 206.
+  Garrison Church, 99, 203.
+  New Palace, 203-205.
+  Old Schloss, 203.
+  Roman Bath, 205.
+  Sans Souci, 201-203.
+
+Prince Albert of Prussia, palace of, 183.
+
+Prince Frederick Charles, palace of, 184.
+
+Prussian Parliament, 131.
+
+
+Queen Louise, 136, 187, 199.
+
+
+Raphael Tapestry, 104.
+
+Rath-haus, 172, 191.
+
+Raths-Keller, 192.
+
+Reichstag, 125-131.
+
+Rheinsberg, 252.
+
+Richter, 127-129.
+
+Rohrpost, 114.
+
+
+Schiller Platz, 85, 189.
+
+Schleiermacher, home of, 185.
+
+Schliemann, remains, 124.
+
+Schönhausen, 251.
+
+Schools,
+  girls, 63-74.
+  Real, 60.
+
+Sculpture, 106.
+
+Society, 29.
+
+Spandau, 215, 250.
+
+Spreewald, 255.
+
+Stairs, 10-12.
+
+Steglitz, 256.
+
+Stendal, 252.
+
+Stoves, 13.
+
+Sunday evenings at Dr. Stückenberg's, 97.
+
+Sunday observance, 31.
+
+
+Tangermünde, 252.
+
+Taylor, Bayard, 191, 219.
+
+Technological Institute, 53.
+
+Tegel, 209.
+
+Tempelhof, 138.
+
+Tetzel's indulgence box, 124.
+
+Thiergarten, 185.
+  monuments in, 186-188.
+
+Thompson, Rev. J.P., 191.
+
+
+University, 51, 53.
+
+Unter den Linden, 180.
+
+
+Varzin, 251.
+
+Ventilation, 18.
+
+Virchow, 132.
+
+
+Waldersee, General Von, 157.
+
+Waldersee, Countess von, 157.
+
+Wansee, 250.
+
+War Academy, 54, 242.
+
+War Office, park of, 54.
+
+Wartburg, 260.
+
+Weddings, 35.
+
+West End, 188.
+
+Wilhelms Platz, 184.
+
+Windhorst, 129, 131.
+
+Wittenberg, 261.
+
+Women, education of, 75.
+ regard for, 27.
+
+
+Young Men's Christian Association, 241.
+
+
+Zinna, 258.
+
+Zoölogical gardens, 188.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+    | Typographical errors corrected in text:                   |
+    |                                                           |
+    | Page 136: Charlottenberg replaced with Charlottenburg     |
+    | Page 267: Babelsberg replaced with Babelsburg             |
+    |                                                           |
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's In and Around Berlin, by Minerva Brace Norton
+
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+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In and Around Berlin, by Minerva Brace Norton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In and Around Berlin
+
+Author: Minerva Brace Norton
+
+Release Date: June 1, 2007 [EBook #21654]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AND AROUND BERLIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Jeannie Howse and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+<div class="tr">
+<p class="cen" style="font-weight: bold;">Transcriber's Note:</p>
+<br />
+<p class="noin">Inconsistent hyphenation in the original document has been preserved.</p>
+<p class="noin">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this text.<br />
+For a complete list, please see the <a href="#TN">end of this document</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+
+<h1>IN AND AROUND BERLIN</h1>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>MINERVA BRACE NORTON</h2>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/logo.jpg" width="10%" alt="publisher's logo" />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h5>CHICAGO<br />
+A.C. McCLURG AND COMPANY<br />
+1889</h5>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h5 class="sc2">Copyright<br />
+By A.C. McClurg and Company<br />
+A.D. 1889</h5>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+
+<h3>TO MY HUSBAND,</h3>
+
+<h5>WHOSE GENEROUS SYMPATHY MADE POSSIBLE THESE PAGES;</h5>
+
+<h4>To my Countrymen and Countrywomen</h4>
+
+<h5>WHO HAVE VISITED BERLIN;</h5>
+
+<h4><i>TO THOSE WHO HOPE TO GO THERE,</i></h4>
+
+<h5>AND TO THE</h5>
+
+<h4>LARGER NUMBER OF ARMCHAIR TRAVELLERS,</h4>
+
+<h4>I Dedicate this Book.</h4>
+
+<h4>M.B.N.</h4>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="toc" id="toc"></a><hr />
+<br />
+
+<h3>CONTENTS.</h3>
+<br />
+
+<div class="centered">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="70%" summary="Table of Contents">
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdrsc" width="10%"><span style="font-size: 90%;">Chap.</span></td>
+  <td class="tdl" width="70%">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tdrsc" width="20%"><span style="font-size: 90%;">Page</span></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">I.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">First Impressions</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">9</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">II.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">Family and Social Life</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">20</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">III.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Education</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">51</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">IV.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Churches</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">79</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">V.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">Museums</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">103</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">VI.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">The German Reichstag and the Prussian Parliament</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">125</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">VII.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">Prominent Personages</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">133</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">VIII.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">The Emperor's Ninetieth Birthday</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">159</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">IX.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">Streets, Parks, Cemeteries, and Public Buildings</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">179</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">X.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">Palaces</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">195</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">XI.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">The Homes of the Humboldts</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">209</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">XII.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">Philanthropic Work</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">221</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td class="tdr">XIII.</td>
+  <td class="tdlsc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">Around Berlin</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">249</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep009.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 9." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h2>IN AND AROUND BERLIN.</h2>
+
+<br />
+
+<h3>I.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>FIRST IMPRESSIONS.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />t was seven o'clock of a gray November morning when we arrived in
+Berlin for our first residence abroad. The approach to the city
+reminded us of the newer parts of New York, and we found that the
+population was about the same. But here the resemblance ceases. New
+York is the metropolis of a great nation,&mdash;the heart whence arterial
+supplies go forth, and to which all returning channels converge; the
+cosmopolitan centre of a New World. Berlin is the increasingly
+important capital of the German Empire,&mdash;growing rapidly, but still
+the royal impersonation of Prussia and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>the Hohenzollerns; seated in
+something of medi&aelig;val costume and quiet beside the river Spree; as
+content to cast a satisfied glance backward to Frederick the Great and
+the Electors of Brandenburg as to look forward to imperial supremacy
+among the Great Powers, and the championship of continental Protestant
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>There is one continuous thread woven through the old history and the
+new, and this appeared in the first hour of our stay. Everywhere on
+the streets the one thing most strange to our American eyes was the
+number of striking military uniforms mingled with the more sober garb
+of civilians. Officers of fine form and gentlemanly bearing, in
+uniforms of dark blue with scarlet trimmings and long, dragging,
+rattling swords, were commanding the evolutions of infantry in the
+main streets; while frequent glimpses of gold-laced light blue or
+scarlet jackets or of plumed and helmeted hussars animated the scene
+on the crowded sidewalks. Germany is, as it has been from the
+beginning, a military power.</p>
+
+<p>We drove first to the home of an American friend. We were not prepared
+for the four long flights of stairs up which we were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>directed by the
+porter on the ground floor. "What reverses of fortune have come to
+A.," thought we, "that she lives in an attic!" The tenement was a good
+one, to be sure, when we found it,&mdash;large and lofty apartments with
+many windows, commanding a fine view. But to one unused to many
+stairs, and weakened by continuous illness in a long sea-voyage, the
+exhaustion of that first ascent was something to be remembered. It
+was, however, but the precursor of hundreds of similar feats, which
+our residence involved, as nearly all families live up several flights
+of stairs. Only once did we see an elevator in Germany. In the elegant
+hotel known as the Kaiserhof, the sojourning-place of princes,
+diplomatists, and statesmen, we took our seats in a commodious
+elevator, rejoiced at the thought of such an American way of getting
+upstairs. It was fully five minutes before we reached the moderate
+elevation of the corridor on which our rooms opened; the liveried and
+intelligent official in charge, evidently a personage of importance,
+meanwhile replying to our queries and enjoying our evident surprise at
+the slow motion, until we forgot our annoyance in the interest of the
+conversation which ensued before we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>reached our destination. Once I
+was toiling up the four flights which led to the residence of a
+cultivated German lady, in company with the hostess. "Oh," I said
+breathlessly, "would there were elevators in Germany!"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," courteously responded the lady; adding, with a resigned sigh,
+the conclusive words which indicated contentment with her lot, "but it
+is not ze custom."</p>
+
+<p>It was late in the season, and our lodgings were not engaged in
+advance. Americans in increasing numbers make Berlin a winter
+residence, and by October the most desirable <i>pensions</i> generally have
+their rooms engaged. By the kind offices of our friend, our famishing
+party were provided with the rolls and coffee which compose the
+continental breakfast, and a fortunate entrance was, after much
+seeking, obtained for us to a most desirable boarding-house. Our own
+apartment was a large corner room, with immense windows looking north
+and east, and, like nearly all rooms in Berlin houses, connected by
+double doors with the apartments on either side. A fire was built
+before we took possession, but it was two days before we ceased to
+shiver. We looked for the stove of which we had heard. More than one
+of the five senses <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>were called into requisition to determine which
+article of furniture was entitled to that designation. Across one
+corner of the room stood a tall white monument composed of glazed
+tiles laid in mortar, built into the room as a chimney might have
+been, with a hidden flue in the rear connecting it with the wall. A
+drab cornice and plaster ornaments of the same color set off the four
+or five feet above the mantel which surrounded it, and a brass door,
+about ten inches by twelve, was in the middle front of the part below.
+On the mantel were disposed sundry ornaments, including vases of dried
+grasses, and the hand could always be held upon the tiles against
+which they stood. In a small fireplace within this unique mass of
+tiles and mortar, the housemaid would place a dozen pieces of
+coal-cake once or at most twice a day, and after allowing a few
+minutes for the kindling to set it aglow, would close and lock the
+triple door, and the fire was made for twenty-four hours. In two or
+three hours after the lighting of the fire, the temperature of the
+room, if other conditions were favorable, might be slightly raised. To
+raise it five to ten degrees would require from six to ten hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>In response to our request to the landlady for an addition of cold
+meat or steak to the coffee and rolls of the breakfast, and for more
+warmth in the room, accompanied by an expression of willingness to
+make additional payment for the same, the reply, given in a courteous
+manner, was that Americans lived in rooms much too warm, and ate too
+much meat, and that it would be for their health in Germany to conform
+to the German customs. However, some spasmodic efforts were made, for
+a season, to comply with the requests, which before long were wholly
+discontinued; and the strangers learned the wisdom of accommodating
+themselves "in Rome" to the ways of the Romans. This, however, was not
+accomplished without continued suffering. The meagre "first
+breakfast," served about half-past eight o'clock, was supplemented by
+a "second breakfast" of a cup of chocolate or beef tea, at about
+eleven, to those who were then in the house and made known their
+desire for it. But the days were short. Berlin is about six hundred
+miles nearer the north pole than New York, in the latitude of Labrador
+and the southern part of Hudson's Bay. The climate is milder only
+because the Gulf Stream kindly sends <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>its warmth over all Europe,
+which lies in much higher latitudes than we are wont to think.
+Consequently the days in winter are much shorter than ours, as in
+summer they are longer. All the mid-winter daylight of Berlin is
+between the hours of eight <span class="fakesc">A.M.</span> and four <span class="fakesc">P.M.</span> With
+dinner at two o'clock, from which we rose about three, there was too
+little light remaining for visits to museums and other places of
+interest, so that the chief sightseeing of the day must be put into
+the hours between nine and two o'clock, often far from residence or
+restaurants; so the work of the day must be done on insufficient food,
+and the prevailing physical sensation was that of being an animated
+empty cask. We thus reached a settled conviction that however well the
+continental breakfast may serve the needs of Germans, with their slow
+ways of working, and their heavy suppers of sausage, black bread, and
+beer, late at night, an American home for Americans temporarily in
+Berlin is a consummation much to be wished.</p>
+
+<p>It is almost with a feeling of despair that many a woman first unpacks
+her trunk in the Berlin apartment which, according to general custom,
+is to serve her for sleeping-room, breakfast-room, study, and
+reception-room. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>In a lengthened sojourn, in hotels, <i>pensions</i>, and
+private residences, I never saw a closet opening from such an
+apartment. Indeed, there were, in the houses I visited, no closets of
+any kind; unless an unlighted, unventilated cubic space in the middle
+of the house or near the kitchen&mdash;the upper half often devoted to
+sleeping room for domestics, and the lower to a general rendezvous of
+odds and ends&mdash;might be dignified with that name. A statement which I
+once ventured in conversation, as to the closets opening from nearly
+every room of an American house, was received with a look of
+incredulity and wonder. Neither did I see a real bureau in Berlin. A
+poor substitute was a portable piece of furniture, often quite
+ornamental, which opened by doors, exposing all the shelves whenever
+an article on any one of them was wanted. Here must be kept bonnets,
+hats, gloves, ribbons, laces, underwear, and all the thousand
+accumulations of the toilet; while a cramped "wardrobe" was the
+receptacle of shoes, cloaks, and dresses, hung perhaps three or four
+or five deep on the half-dozen wooden pegs within. Bathrooms were the
+rare exceptions. As a rule, bathing must be done with a sponge and
+cold water, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>in one's private apartment, where are no faucets, drains,
+or set bowls, but the ordinary wash-bowl, pitcher, and jar. Evidently
+German civilization does not rate the bath very high among the
+comforts of life.</p>
+
+<p>An essential part of the furniture in the kind of apartment I am
+describing, is a screen to stand before each bed and wash-stand. The
+beds are invariably single, two or more being placed in a room when
+needed, the screens, by day, transforming the room into a parlor.
+There are no carpets. On the oiled or painted wooden floors rugs are
+placed before the beds, before the sofa, and under the table which
+always stands before it. One luxury is seldom wanting,&mdash;a good
+writing-desk, with pens and ink ready for use. It is no trouble to a
+German hostess to increase or diminish the number of beds in a room,
+the narrow bedsteads being carried with ease through the double doors,
+from room to room, as convenience requires.</p>
+
+<p>Pictures are on the walls,&mdash;not often remarkable as works of art, but
+most frequently stimulants to love of country,&mdash;portraits of the
+Kaiser and the Crown Prince, and battle scenes in which glory is
+reflected on the Prussian arms. Every window is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>double; the two outer
+vertical halves opening on hinges outward, and the inner opening in
+the same manner into the room. Graceful lace drapery is the rule, over
+plain cotton hangings or Venetian blinds.</p>
+
+<p>The arrangement of the bedding is peculiar. Over a set of wire springs
+is laid the mattress, in a closely fitting white case, buttoned, tied,
+or laced together at one end. This case takes the place of an under
+sheet. The feather pillow is in a plain slip of white cotton,
+similarly fastened. Over the whole a blanket or comfortable is laid,
+securely enfolded in another white case, which also serves instead of
+an upper sheet. Over this is the feather bed, usually encased in
+colored print, sometimes of bright colors. Under this one always
+sleeps. Over the bed, from low head-board to foot-board, is stretched
+by day the uppermost covering. Ours was of maroon cotton flannel,
+bordered in front by a flounce intended to be ornamental. The custom
+is to furnish clean cases and pillow-slips once a month, and it is
+difficult to secure more frequent changes of bed-linen.</p>
+
+<p>Ventilation is something of which the Germans are particularly afraid.
+The impure air of schools, halls, churches, and other places <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>of
+assemblage is dreadful, and a draught is regarded as the messenger of
+death. When our landlady found that we were in the habit of sleeping
+with our windows open, most emphatic remonstrance was made, with the
+assurance that this would never do in Berlin. However, like the
+drinking of water, against which also warnings are customary, the
+breathing of fresh air was to us followed by no harmful results.</p>
+
+<p>These differences in habits and customs of household life, like the
+sounds of a strange language, affect the traveller unpleasantly at
+first. But differences in national customs are natural and inevitable,
+and one gradually becomes accustomed to them, and enabled to live a
+happy life in spite of them, as appreciation grows when acquaintance
+has made one familiar with many interesting and excellent aspects of
+existence here.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep019.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 19." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep020.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 20." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>II.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>FAMILY AND SOCIAL LIFE.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/h.jpg" alt="H" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />olidays and birthdays are more scrupulously and formally observed in
+Germany than with us. There are cakes and lighted candles and flowers
+for the one whose birthday makes him for the time the most important
+personage in the family, and who sits in holiday dress in the
+reception-room, to receive the calls and congratulations of friends.
+Those who cannot call send letters and presents, which are displayed,
+with those received from the family, on a table devoted to the
+purpose; and the array is often quite extensive. The presents are
+seldom extravagant, consisting largely of the ornamental handiwork of
+friends and of useful articles of clothing for common use.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>A genuine German family festival on Christmas eve is a pleasant thing
+to see. We accepted with pleasure the invitation of Frau B&mdash;&mdash; and her
+family, to be present at theirs. In a large <i>salon</i> adjoining that
+where the table was laid for supper, was another long table spread
+with a white cloth. Toward the farther end of the table stood a tall
+Christmas-tree, decked with various simple ornaments; and the candles
+on it were lighted with a little ceremony, the chubby granddaughter of
+three years pointing her bare arm and uplifted forefinger to the tree,
+and reciting a short poem appropriate to the occasion, as we entered
+the room, about half-past seven o'clock. Then the beautiful and
+winning child found her toys, her lovely wax doll and its cradle, and
+another doll of rubber, small and homely, on which, after the fashion
+of little mothers, she imprinted her most affectionate kisses.
+Suddenly the room was radiant with a contagious happiness. "The little
+Fr&auml;ulein," daughter of the hostess, just engaged by cable to a
+gentleman in America, had found his picture, wreathed with fresh and
+fragrant rosebuds, among her presents; and the smiles and blushes
+chased each other over her face, as the engagement <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>was thus announced
+by her mother to the assembled guests. She answered her
+congratulations by more blushes and smiles, laying her hand on her
+heart, and saying with true German frankness, "Oh, I am so happy!" No
+presents hung on the tree, but those intended for each person were in
+a group beside a plate of cakes and bonbons, with a card bearing the
+name. Each of the company found his own, delicately assisted by the
+hostess and her daughters. Then the servants were called in, to find
+their presents on side tables, to receive and express good wishes and
+thanks, and to join in the general joy of the household over the
+engagement. After supper in the dining-room, we talked awhile, there
+was music from the piano, then the married daughter and her family
+withdrew with kind "good-nights;" and before a late hour all the other
+guests had done the same, not, however, until the national airs of
+America and of Scotland had been sung by all present, in honor of the
+guests from these countries.</p>
+
+<p>Private hospitality is kind and open, but so far as our observation
+went, conducted within certain specified limits seldom overstepped.
+Order of precedence is carefully observed, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>and more honor is shown to
+age than with us. The best seat in the drawing-room is the sofa. A
+single guest would never be offered any other place, and among a
+number the eldest or the most honored would be invariably conducted
+there. Hence no one would venture to take this place of honor
+uninvited. Sometimes one is secretly glad of not being invited to
+crowd behind the table which usually stands, covered with a spread,
+inconveniently close before the sofa, and of having instead a chair,
+with a better support for the back.</p>
+
+<p>One is expected to bow to the hostess and to each guest on coming to
+the table, and also on leaving it. Odd as this seems at first, it soon
+becomes a habit rather pleasant than burdensome, and one grows
+insensibly to admire the outward politeness of this German custom.
+Greetings and farewells are more ceremonious, even between intimate
+friends, than with us; and to omit a ceremonious leave-taking or to
+substitute a light bow and "good day" would not make a pleasant
+impression on a German hostess. Americans, especially young ladies,
+are much criticised for their independence and lack of courtesy. A
+German friend told me that a young <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>American lady who had formerly
+been an inmate of her family called to bid her good-by before leaving
+Berlin. "I was amazed," she said, "at such politeness." It is not
+alone in matters of courtesy that young American ladies shock the
+Germans. Though a young lady has more freedom in Germany than in
+France and Italy, she is expected to conform carefully to the custom
+of going out in the evening or travelling only in company with a
+relative if a gentleman, or with an older lady. It is true that
+American girls are forgiven some liberties which no German girl would
+think of taking, on the ground of American customs; and a careful,
+well-bred young lady, from our side the water will seldom fall into
+serious trouble if she observes the rule of not going out unattended.
+But young ladies from America in Europe hold largely the honor of
+their country in their hands, and they ought to recognize this
+responsibility.</p>
+
+<p>German politeness has also a reverse side. Perhaps the general absence
+of higher education among German women leaves them an especial prey to
+idle curiosity and gossip. Not only is one questioned freely as to the
+cost of any article of dress by comparative strangers, but questions
+as to one's family <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>and private affairs are common, almost customary.
+Conversation which does not turn upon such things, or on others
+equally trivial and irrelevant, is the exception. The recital on their
+part, however, of personal and family history has a charming
+good-nature and simplicity, and often a touch of the homely and
+pathetic, which reach the heart of the listener. There were few tables
+where the conversation was not too loud for our comfort. No one seemed
+particularly to care for quiet talk with his neighbor, but the
+conversation at a long table was a rattling sharpshooting or a heavy
+cannonade from one end to the other, mingled with hearty laughter,
+while "Attic salt" was sparing. Table-manners, even among otherwise
+charming people, were often shocking to the taste of Americans. What
+we should call the first principles of good-breeding were freely
+contravened. The nicety and daintiness which in some favored American
+and English homes make of the family board a visible and tangible
+poem, were very rare in our German experience. And yet there are
+charming German tables and well-bred German ladies and gentlemen. One
+custom which we have been taught to regard as vulgar and profane <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>is
+that of constantly using the names of the Deity by way of exclamation
+and emphasis in the most ordinary conversation. Being on sufficiently
+intimate terms with a German lady, we one day ventured to inquire
+deprecatingly about this habit. "Everybody does it," was her candid
+reply; and this was the only reason we ever heard.</p>
+
+<p>"George Eliot" long ago complained of the inconvenience of
+perambulating Berlin streets, where you are pushed off the sidewalks
+and are in constant danger of involuntary surgical experience through
+contact with the military swords that clank and clatter in the crowd.
+There is still room for improvement in this respect. The owners of
+sabres often seem to take it for granted that the right of way belongs
+first of all to them and their weapons, and if any one is thus
+inconvenienced that is the business of the unlucky party. The streets
+and sidewalks are much wider and less crowded than those in Boston;
+but a collision on a Boston sidewalk is rare, while a half-dozen rude
+ones in an hour is a daily expectation in Berlin. A Berlin pedestrian
+"to the manner born," in blind momentum and disregard of all
+obstacles, has no equal in our experience.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>It was told me that if you are run over by the swiftly driven horses
+in the streets, you must pay a fine for obstructing the way.
+Remembering that many regulations are relics of the times when laws
+were made for the good of the aristocracy who ride, and not for the
+vulgar crowd who walk, we did not try the experiment. Mounted
+policemen are to be seen, like equestrian statues, at the intersection
+of the more crowded thoroughfares, as Unter den Linden and Friedrich
+Strasse, and with a little care there is seldom need of delay in
+crossing. I heard of one poor cab-driver who was fined and cast into
+prison for injuring a lady who suddenly changed her mind and took a
+new tack while just in front of his horses. Regard for foot-passengers
+seems thus to have an existence in some cases.</p>
+
+<p>Regard for women is not a thing to which German men are trained. A
+gentleman may not carry a small parcel through the street, but his
+delicate wife may take a heavier one to save the disgrace of her
+husband's bearing it. Among the middle classes, those couples who go
+out for a walk with the baby-carriage invariably regard the management
+of it as the wife's privilege, leaving to the father the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>custody of
+his pipe or cigar alone. If the baby is to be carried in arms, it is
+always the wife, not the husband, who bears the burden. Women in the
+humbler classes wear no bonnets in the street, although sometimes in
+cold weather they tie a little shawl or a handkerchief about the head.
+Their usual habit is, however, to go out in all weathers with the head
+as unprotected as the face, even for long distances. A maid follows
+her mistress to market, with a basket on her arm, often covered with
+an embroidered cloth, in which are placed the purchases of the careful
+housemother.</p>
+
+<p>A huckster is frequently accompanied by a dog, both being harnessed to
+the little cart which holds the wares. Often the man will be free,
+while the woman and the dog side by side drag the cart to which they
+are tied, the woman usually knitting even when the air is cold enough
+to benumb her fingers. Women knit constantly in the streets about
+their other work, whether bowed down under huge bundles of fagots on
+their backs, serving milk at the houses, or doing many other things
+with which we should regard knitting as incompatible.</p>
+
+<p>The best society is like the court, in being <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>exclusive. It is
+difficult for strangers, in Germany as in America, easily to obtain
+desirable acquaintance, except by means of letters of introduction,
+and the friendship which comes with time and natural selection.
+Glimpses of home-life in cultivated circles are accordingly to be
+highly valued.</p>
+
+<p>One delightful visit with supper, to which we were invited, began
+about six o'clock. That we might have more in common, the hostess, who
+herself spoke English with much intelligence, had invited a German
+lady who had resided in Boston to meet us. We were seated on the sofa
+and shown some of the many art treasures in the way of fine engravings
+which the home contained, the fancy-work of our hostess&mdash;a German lady
+seems never to be without it&mdash;lying neglected as the conversation rose
+in interest. Supper was served between eight and nine o'clock, at a
+round table accommodating the hostess and her three guests. Delicious
+tea, made from a burnished brass teakettle over an alcohol lamp on a
+stand beside the hostess, with white and black bread, five kinds of
+sausage, cold meat, and pickled fish, composed the first course. There
+was a second, composed of little cakes and apples.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>Dinner, in our experience, was almost invariably good. First course,
+always soup and bread. Second, unless fish were served, some kind of
+meat, a variety of vegetables, among which green beans, spinach, and
+varieties of cabbage delicately cooked were prominent. This course was
+usually accompanied by cooked or preserved fruit. Third course,
+various puddings and cakes, all good, some delicious; never any pie.
+The luxury of dessert was sometimes omitted. It is not common in
+German families, except those frequented by American guests. Radishes
+and cheese form an extra course at some suppers. In hotels, of course,
+the simple family dinner of three or four courses is replaced by a
+more elaborate feast of many courses.</p>
+
+<p>The anniversaries of the death of friends are remembered by dressing
+in black, burning candles before their portraits, and visiting their
+graves. There is also one day in spring which is celebrated as a kind
+of combination of All Saints Day and Decoration Day, when every one
+visits the cemeteries, leaving flowers and wreaths in memory of the
+loved and lost. Funeral services are held, both at the homes and in
+the churches, and are often <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>accompanied by very impressive and
+majestic music. In at least one of the cemeteries there is a large and
+scientifically arranged crematory. A recent judicial decision,
+however, forbids cremation within the municipal jurisdiction.</p>
+
+<p>Sundays, as is well known, are not observed in Germany as in England
+and Scotland. But in the parts of Berlin which we were accustomed to
+see on that day, including two miles or more between our residence and
+the central part of the city, the general sobriety and orderly
+appearance would compare favorably with that in the better parts of
+many American cities. We were asked on our first Sunday at the
+dinner-table if we would like to have seats secured for us at the
+opera that evening. Operatic performances and concerts are among the
+better entertainments offered on Sunday evenings. The laws are strict,
+however, regarding quiet in the streets and the closing of places of
+business until after Sunday morning service in the churches. In the
+finest residence portions of some American cities we have been
+frequently disturbed by the street-cries of hucksters during divine
+service on Sunday mornings, while the ear-piercing shouts of newspaper
+venders disturb all the peace of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>the early morning hours. Dime
+museums and other places flaunt their attractions in the faces of the
+crowd who gather at their doors, and many places of business seem to
+be always open. It was not our experience to see or hear anything like
+this in Germany. Even the law of despotic power is better than none at
+all,&mdash;often far better than enlightened law not enforced. Policemen in
+the streets of Berlin make short work with the luckless tradesman who
+leaves his blinds or doors open on Sunday before two o'clock
+<span class="fakesc">P.M.</span> Of course restaurants and places of food supply are
+open. To all outward appearance Berlin was a fairly well-ordered city
+on Sundays. One in search of evil, however, could doubtless find it,
+here as elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday afternoon is a favorite time for calls and family visits; and
+in the pleasant weather the genuine love for out-door life, which
+seems dormant in winter, blossoms out luxuriantly. Parents take their
+whole families to the numerous gardens in the suburbs for picnics on
+Sundays and the frequent holidays. Sunday hours at home are spent by
+most German ladies with the inevitable crochet-work or knitting,&mdash;even
+the most devout <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>seeing no harm in this, nor in their little Sunday
+evening parties, with games and music.</p>
+
+<p>One day in the year&mdash;Good Friday&mdash;is observed as scrupulously as was
+ever a Puritan Sunday. The organic Protestant Church of Germany&mdash;a
+union of the Lutheran and Reformed churches,&mdash;has small affiliation
+with the Church of Rome; but some observances which we have been
+accustomed to associate with so-called Catholicism have lingered with
+Protestantism in Germany. Good Friday was a solemn day in the family
+where we had our home. Bach's music, brought to light after a hundred
+years of deep obscurity by Felix Mendelssohn, and rendered, though at
+first with much opposition from musicians of the old school, in the
+Sing Akademie of Berlin, now lends every year, on the eve of Good
+Friday, its incomparable <i>Passion-Musik</i> to the devotion of the
+occasion. "There are many things I must miss," said a cultivated
+German to me, "but the <i>Passion-Musik</i> on the eve of Good
+Friday,&mdash;never! It makes me better. I cannot do without it." We found
+this music, at the time of which we speak, an occasion to be ever
+memorable for its wonderful power and pathos. The next morning we did
+not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>attend the service in the cathedral, where we wished to go,
+knowing that the crowd would be too great for comfort. On returning to
+our room from another service, a beautiful arrangement of cut flowers
+on the table greeted our senses as we opened the door. It was the
+thoughtful, affectionate, and devout offering of our hostess in
+reverent memory of the day. After dinner we entered the private parlor
+of the family for a friendly call and to express our thanks. No
+suggestion of knitting or fancy-work was to be seen. The hostess and
+her daughters, soberly dressed, were reading devotional books. "Do you
+not go out this afternoon?" I inquired. "No, one cannot go out," was
+the reply, indicating probably both lack of disposition and of places
+open for entertainment. Later, I ventured out for a walk. Only here
+and there could a team be seen, and the throng of pedestrians usually
+on the sidewalks in a bright spring afternoon seemed to have deserted
+the busy streets, in which comparative silence reigned.</p>
+
+<p>"I am glad there is here <i>one</i> sabbath in the year," was our inward
+comment, "even though it falls on a Friday." Easter was a day of
+gladness in the churches, though elaborate <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>adornments of flowers and
+new spring bonnets were not so prominent as in American cities. The
+respectable church communicant, even if he goes to church on no other
+day in the year, usually takes the communion at Easter.</p>
+
+<p>Easter Monday was one great gala-day. All Berlin seemed to be in the
+streets in holiday attire; and, to our eyes, no other day ever showed
+such universal gladness reflected in the faces and demeanor of the
+people. "Prayer Day," answering somewhat to the original New England
+Fast Day, was solemnly observed in May; and the holidays of
+Whitsuntide dress every house and market-stall and milk-cart with
+green boughs, and crowd the railways and the steamers with throngs of
+pleasure-seekers.</p>
+
+<p>The few weeks before Easter is a favorite season for weddings, and
+these are invariably celebrated in church. Even people in moderate
+circumstances make much display at the church ceremony, with or
+without an additional celebration at home. We were invited to one at
+the Garrison Church, which the soldiers attend, and where most of the
+pews on the main floor are held by officers and their families. We
+entered the church <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>fifteen minutes before the hour appointed,&mdash;four
+o'clock. An elderly usher in a fine suit, with swallow-tail coat and a
+decoration on his breast, politely gave us liberty to choose our
+seats, as the invitations were not numerous and the church is large. A
+few persons, mostly ladies, were there before us, and had already
+taken the best seats,&mdash;those running lengthwise of the church, and
+facing a wide central aisle. We joined them, and while waiting felt
+more at liberty to inspect the church than at the service on a
+previous Sunday. The Grecian interior was undecorated, except that a
+mass of green filled the space to the right and left of the altar,
+beginning on each side with tall oleanders succeeded by laurels and
+other evergreens, growing gradually less in height, until they reached
+the pews in the side aisles. A rich altar-cloth of purple velvet,
+embroidered with gold, fell below the crucifix and the massive candles
+on either side, which are always seen in the Lutheran churches; and in
+the aisle below the chancel stood a square altar, covered with another
+spread of purple velvet, heavy with gold fringe and embroidery. Two
+chairs were side by side just in front of the high altar, and facing
+it. Six chairs facing the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>audience were on the platform on each side
+of the altar, directly in front of the mass of green I have described.
+Below the steps to the chancel about twenty chairs were placed on each
+side of the central aisle, and facing the altar. In each chair was a
+printed slip containing a hymn to be sung after the ceremony. About
+four o'clock a maid came in with the little granddaughter who on
+Christmas eve had spoken the poem at the lighting of the family
+Christmas-tree. When they were seated, the handsome little face, with
+its white bonnet and cloak, was seen in a side pew very near the
+altar. It seemed so like a dream,&mdash;the announcement of the engagement
+of "the little Fr&auml;ulein" at that Christmas party; and now the time has
+come when the bride is to belong to her mother and her home no more!</p>
+
+<p>Ladies had long ceased looking impatiently at their watches, and were
+perhaps busy with their thoughts, as I was, when from the "mittel"
+door Court-preacher Frommel entered, his long white hair thrown back,
+and crossed through the transverse aisle to the robing-room opposite.
+Soon a signal given by an usher to the organist was the prelude to
+solemn music, which filled the church; and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>a stout clerical
+assistant, with a book under his arm, appeared at the rear door. Then
+Pastor Frommel, in his black robe and simple white muslin bands, took
+his place before the high altar and bowed in prayer, the two immense
+candles in tall candlesticks on either side the altar, now lighted,
+throwing their radiance on his silver hair. Meantime the bridal
+procession slowly moved down the side aisle toward the middle of the
+church, turned at the transverse aisle, crossed to the centre, turned
+again, now toward the altar, passing to it up the central aisle. The
+clerical personage with the service-book under his arm passed first.
+Then came the bride on the arm of the groom. There were a few
+orange-buds hidden here and there in the fluffy mass of her front
+hair; a veil of tulle was fastened behind them in a gathered coronet,
+and fell down over the folds of her white silk dress, whose train
+swept along the aisle to the length of a yard and a half. I saw no
+ornaments, save a wreath below the high, full, white ruche at the
+throat, perhaps of geranium leaves, and a full bouquet of pink
+rosebuds in the right hand. From my glance at the train of the bridal
+dress, I looked up to see six bridesmaids coming after, each on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>the
+arm of a groomsman. The first bridesmaid was a lovely sister of the
+bride, in a dress of cream-white silk without train, pink flowers in
+her hair, and carrying a large bouquet of full-blown cream and crimson
+roses. The second bridesmaid wore a dress of silk,&mdash;not ecru and not
+palest olive, but a shade between the two,&mdash;with a perfectly fitting
+corsage, likewise <i>d&eacute;collet&eacute;</i>, and for ornaments a necklace of large
+pearls, a bouquet, and flowers in her hair. The first groomsman was in
+civilian's dress; but the second was in all the glory of full
+regimentals, with scarlet trimmings and showy buttons. The third
+bridesmaid wore pink silk, with a bouquet at the centre of the
+heart-shaped corsage; but unlike the others, she had no flowers in her
+hair. Of the following bridesmaids, one wore pink silk of a paler
+shade, one was in lemon-color, and the last in palest mauve, with
+trimmings of garnet velvet. The bridesmaids filed to the right, and
+the groomsmen to the left, as they reached the altar, before which
+Pastor Frommel now stood. As the bride and groom approached, they
+remained a moment standing with bowed heads in silent prayer, as the
+custom is on entering a German church, and then <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>took the two chairs
+which had been placed for them, facing the minister. I had been struck
+by the beauty of the widowed mother, as she followed the bridesmaids,
+leaning on the arm of her brother,&mdash;a fine-looking, dignified officer
+from Potsdam, in full uniform, with broad silver epaulettes. The black
+hair of the mother&mdash;dressed high and gracefully on the crown of her
+uncovered head, set off by a fine white marguerite and a yellow
+one&mdash;and her dark eyes and complexion were in strong contrast to the
+fair hair and light German complexion of the younger ladies. She was
+in a dress of garnet silk, fitting perfectly her tall and graceful
+form. The bridesmaids took the six chairs on the right of the altar,
+facing the audience and before the mass of greenery, which made an
+effective background for so much youth, beauty, and elegance; and the
+groomsmen took the corresponding chairs on the left. The mother and
+uncle parted at the steps below the altar, she taking the first chair
+on the right, and he on the left, with the central aisle between them.
+Next came two elderly ladies, in dark silk with long trains, with
+uncovered and ornamented hair, and white shoulder-shawls of silk or
+wool, each with a gentleman; and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>they were seated to the right and
+left respectively. The bride's eldest married sister came next, in a
+splendid robe of blue satin, with a long train, looking very young and
+<i>distingu&eacute;</i>. She and her husband filed to the right and left, as the
+others had done. The second married sister of the bride followed, in a
+similar dress of pink satin; and her very handsome husband, in his
+full military suit, was a decided addition to the courtly-looking
+assemblage. These five ladies filled the front row of chairs on one
+side, as did the gentlemen accompanying them on the other side. Eight
+other ladies, all in full dress,&mdash;one wearing an ermine
+cape,&mdash;followed, each with a gentleman; and these were seated in the
+second row.</p>
+
+<p>When for a few brief moments I first caught sight of all this
+elegance, I felt as though I were in a dream; then came a rush of
+emotion, because I loved the fair young bride, and was touched at the
+thought of the solemn place in which she stood,&mdash;forsaking home and
+friends and native land to go to what seems to these home-dwelling
+Germans a far, strange country, all for the sake of a young man whom a
+year ago she had never <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>seen. I was as sorry for the mother, too, as I
+could be for one so handsome and so dignified. How fast one feels and
+thinks in such a time! Before the hush which followed the procession
+and the temporary change while all were finding their appropriate
+seats, the feeling of sympathy had given place to one of stimulated
+imagination, and this dim old soldiers' church, with the majestic
+music filling all its spaces, seemed merely the setting for some scene
+at a royal court in the olden time, where beauty and brilliance and
+grandeur were a matter of course.</p>
+
+<p>The music ceased, all present rose, while Pastor Frommel read a brief
+service from the book, and said "Amen." Then we sat down again, and
+the pastor preached the wedding sermon, which we were told is a matter
+of course at a German marriage. The sermon over, the bride and groom
+stood up before him, and he looked down with a fatherly glance upon
+the bride whom he took into his own house to prepare for confirmation
+only a few short years ago, and whom he is now to send with his
+marriage benediction across the sea. In a sweet, calm voice he
+addressed them; then the bride hands her bouquet to her sister
+bridesmaid sitting near, and removes <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>her own glove; the groom takes
+from his pocket a ring, and gives it to the minister, who places it on
+the bride's finger, speaking a few solemn sentences, of which only the
+last reaches my ears: "What God hath joined together, let not man put
+asunder." For the first time in the service, the bride and groom kneel
+before him who bends over them; then follows a prayer, and it is
+finished. They rise, and are seated an instant; then rise again as the
+pastor gives his hand in congratulation to the groom; and when he
+places his hand with a few words in that of the bride, she bends low
+over it and kisses it in a pathetic farewell. The pastor goes first.
+The bride and groom bow in silent devotion before the altar until the
+time seems a little long, then turn and come down the aisle, followed
+by their retinue as they went in, but twain no more. The mother wiped
+away a tear quietly once or twice during the service, the unmarried
+sister bridesmaid looked as sweet and calm as always she does at home,
+but the bride, silently taking farewell of friends and native land,
+was deeply moved. No one had any voice for the printed hymn, and the
+organ alone supplied its music. The newly married couple went in the
+first carriage <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>which rolled homewards, the others followed without
+observing precedence, and a small and quiet home reception closed the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>In a family where we found a home we were once asked, with other
+temporary residents, to attend a small evening gathering. At the usual
+hour of half-past eight we were led out to supper by the hostess. The
+table was very handsome with its fine linen and an elaborately
+embroidered lunch cloth extending through the whole length of a board
+at which fourteen were seated. I counted ten tall wine bottles, and at
+every plate except two, wine-glasses were standing. Several of the
+European ladies drank off three or four glasses as they might have
+done so much water. "You are temperance?" said a young lady from
+Stockholm at my left, in her broken English. I said, Yes; and on
+inquiry found she knew something of the great temperance movement in
+her own country, of which she told me over her wine. She said she
+thought a glass would do me good. I said, "No, it would flush my face
+and do me harm;" to which, without any intention of discourtesy, she
+replied simply, "I do not believe it." Five plates of various sizes
+were piled before each individual. The smallest was of glass, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>for
+preserved fruit and sweet pickles, four kinds of which were passed,
+all to be deposited, if one partook of all, on the same plate. The
+other plates and the whole service were of beautiful old Berlin china,
+white, with a line of dark blue and another of gilt around the edge of
+each piece, and the monogram of the grandmother to whom it originally
+belonged in the centre of each piece in blue letters. The first course
+was excellent chicken broth, served to each guest in a china cup, with
+a roll. The second course was cold roast beef and hot potatoes, served
+in three different ways, with rolls and plenty of wine. The third
+course was offered to me first by a handsome serving-maid lately from
+the country, with a clear face, bright dark eyes, dark hair, and rosy
+cheeks. Admiring her, I cast only a brief and doubtful glance on the
+large plate she bore, at one side of which were two lifelike sheep
+three or four inches high, with little red ribbons around their necks
+and standing in the midst of greenery. "This is confectionery," I
+thought, "and these are sugar sheep for ornament." Disposed on other
+parts of the plate were sundry rounds and triangles which looked
+peculiar; but my custom was, at German tables, "to prove all <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>things"
+and "hold fast that which is good." So I decided on a creamy-looking
+segment, covered with silver-paper, and showing at the sides a
+half-inch thickness of what I hoped was custard-cake. The plate was
+next passed to a lady at my right, who cut a little piece off a white
+substance; and I thought, "She has ice-cream." Before I had touched my
+portion, a suspicious odor diverted my attention from the
+conversation. I found that the course was cheese and radishes, that my
+neighbor had "Dutch cheese," that the sheep were the butter and I had
+none for my roll, and that I had possessed myself of perhaps the whole
+of one variety of European cheese in tin-foil, the peculiar aroma of
+which was anything but agreeable to my cheese-hating sense. I begged a
+German Fr&auml;ulein who sat near and who was intensely enjoying the
+situation to relieve me, when she kindly took about one third of my
+delicacy, leaving the rest in solitary state until the end of that
+course. Fortunately, the non-winedrinkers were offered a cup of tea
+just here, and I ate my roll with it in thankfulness. My American
+friend laughingly made a remark to her German neighbor,&mdash;a tall and
+dignified lady, but very vivacious. She turned her head, saying in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>hesitating English, "Speak on this side; I am <i>dumb</i> in that ear."
+Meanwhile the conversation, not as at American tables a low hum, but
+rather the rattle of artillery, fires away, across the table, along
+its whole length, anywhere and everywhere, much sounding, little
+meaning, amid infinite ado of demonstration and gesticulation. The
+next course was the nearest approach to pie I saw at any German
+table,&mdash;<i>apfeltochter</i>,&mdash;a browned and frosted crust, nearly eighteen
+inches in diameter, between the parts of which was cooked and
+sweetened apple.</p>
+
+<p>I noted the different nationalities at the table,&mdash;the mother and her
+daughters, Germans of the Germans; a buxom young girl from the
+country, a fine singer; the tall German, and the young Swedish lady of
+whom I have spoken; another Swedish lady from Gothenburg, tall, very
+dignified, with gray eyes and dark hair, an exquisite singer. Then
+there was Herr G&mdash;&mdash;, also from Sweden, and Fr&auml;ulein von K&mdash;&mdash;, a
+young Polish lady, with striking black eyes and hair and a laughing
+face. Other guests were two Norwegian gentlemen. One of them, tall,
+dark, and with the dress and bearing of a gentleman, said to my
+American friend, "Yes, I speak English <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span><i>very well</i>" which we found to
+be the case. As I had mentally completed this summary, my friend said
+to me in a low "aside," "The young lady at your left is a
+free-thinker, the Polish lady is a Roman Catholic, Herr G&mdash;&mdash;is a Jew;
+the rest Lutherans, except you and me." And one of us at home was of
+"Andover," and the other "straight Orthodox"!</p>
+
+<p>Later, we adjourned to the drawing-room, spacious and handsome after
+the German fashion. I asked one of the daughters of the house, who I
+knew had spent some years in Russia, if the portrait of a middle-aged
+gentleman hanging near me, much decorated and with a gilded crown at
+the top of the frame, were not that of the late Czar (Alexander II.),
+when she replied, "It is our Emperor!" And I had seen his Majesty at
+least half a dozen times! But he was a much older man now. One of the
+Norwegian gentlemen sat down at the piano and played portions of a
+recent opera, and a game of questions and answers followed. Oranges
+and little cakes were served before the company broke up at the early
+hour of half-past eleven.</p>
+
+<p>Concerts and even the opera and theatre begin early in Germany. Doors
+are open usually <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>about half-past five, and the performance seldom
+begins later than six or seven. This interferes with the time of the
+usual evening meal, so that refreshments at these places are always in
+order. One of the most characteristic evenings maybe spent at the
+Philharmonie, where the best music is given at popular prices several
+times each week. Tickets seldom cost more than fifteen or eighteen
+cents, and may be bought by the package for much less. This is a
+favorite place with the music-loving Germans, and for many Americans
+as well. Nearly all the German ladies take their knitting or
+fancy-work. The large and fine hall is filled on these occasions with
+chairs clustered around small tables accommodating from two to six.
+Here families and friends gather, chat in the intervals, and listen to
+the music, quietly sipping their beer or chocolate, and supper is
+served in the intermission to those who order it. Smoking is
+forbidden, but seldom is the hour after supper free from fumes of
+smokers who quietly venture to light their cigars unrebuked unless the
+room gets <i>too</i> blue. Many entire families seem to make nightly
+rendezvous at these concerts, enjoying the music as only Germans do,
+and setting many a pretty <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>picture in the minds of strangers. The
+concerts are over by nine or ten o'clock, but the performances at
+theatre and opera are frequently not concluded before half-past ten or
+eleven, and an after-supper at a <i>caf&eacute;</i> or at home is a consequent
+necessity. In one aspect of behavior at concerts, American audiences
+may well imitate our German friends. The beginning of every piece of
+music is the signal for instantaneous cessation from conversation. I
+do not remember ever having been annoyed during the performance of
+music, either in public or private, while in Germany, by the talking
+of any except Americans or other foreigners. To the music-loving
+Germans this is among the greatest of social sins.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep050.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the bottom of page 50." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep051.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 51." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>III.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>EDUCATION.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />he buildings of the Berlin University are somewhat scattered, but the
+edifice known by this name is situated opposite the Imperial Palace,
+in the finest part of the city. The building was once the palace of
+Prince Henry, brother of Frederick the Great. It is built around three
+sides of a court open southward to the street, guarded by a high
+ornamental iron fence. Before it are the sitting statues of the
+brothers Humboldt, in fine white marble, on high pedestals. That of
+Alexander von Humboldt, in particular, inspired me with profound
+admiration often as I passed it. Few statues are more fortunate in
+subject, in execution, or in position. The former reception-room of
+the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>palace is now the great <i>aula</i> of the University, and the old
+ball-room is transformed into a Museum. The Cabinet of Minerals and
+the Collections of the Zo&ouml;logical Museum are each among the most
+valuable of their kind in existence. The fine park to the north of the
+University is open to the public, and is best seen from the rear
+entrance in Dorotheen Strasse. Its quiet shades seem quite the ideal
+of an academic grove, if that can be in the middle of a great city.
+The Astronomical Observatory is upwards of half a mile south, in a
+park at the end of Charlotten Strasse; and the Medical Colleges are
+mostly to the northwest, near the great hospital.</p>
+
+<p>This University, with its hundreds of professors, and nearly six
+thousand students annually in attendance, is now one of the foremost
+in Europe. Professors who, like Virchow, Helmholtz, and Mommsen, have
+a world-wide reputation, draw many to their classes; but there are
+other equally learned specialists with a more circumscribed reputation
+and influence. Hundreds of American students tarry each year for a
+longer or shorter term of study in Berlin, and it is rapidly gaining
+upon Leipsic as a centre for musical study also. No woman is allowed
+to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>matriculate in the University at present, although there are not
+wanting German women who, in advance of general public sentiment,
+affirm that this ought not so to be.</p>
+
+<p>The Academy of Arts and the Academy of Science are housed in the
+conspicuous building opposite the palace of Emperor William I. and
+adjoining the University. The Science Academy is organized in four
+sections, physical, mathematical, philosophical, and historical, and
+has valuable endowments and scholarships. The Academy of Arts has one
+section devoted to higher instruction in painting, engraving, and
+sculpture, and one to music, eminent specialists in each branch
+composing the Board of Direction. The imposing building of the
+Institute of Technology, near the extremity of the Thiergarten, has a
+fine Technological Museum, and accommodation for two thousand
+students. Its organization grew out of the union of two previously
+existing institutions for the promotion of architecture and trade. It
+has now five sections, in which about one thousand students pursue the
+study of architecture, civil engineering, machinery, ship-building,
+mining, and chemistry.</p>
+
+<p>Instruction in the science of war is given <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>in all its departments, as
+might be expected. The War Office of the Government is in the
+Leipziger Strasse, adjoining the Reichstag, with one of the finest of
+ancient parks behind it, covering a space equal to several squares in
+the heart of the city. This park is elaborate and finely kept, but it
+is surrounded by high walls, within which the public is rarely
+admitted. Even its existence is unsuspected by most visitors. The
+large and elegant building of the War Academy in the Dorotheen Strasse
+has a war library of eight hundred thousand volumes and magnificent
+accessories. Its object is to educate army officers. There are three
+courses of study, promotion from which to the General Staff is made by
+examinations. The business of the General Staff is, in war, to
+regulate the movements of the army and to attend to the correct
+registration of material for war history. In peace, the time of the
+officers who compose it is devoted to a profound post-graduate study
+of the science and the art of warfare.</p>
+
+<p>An important accessory to the privileges of the University is the
+Royal Library, opposite the main building and adjacent to the palace
+of Emperor William I. in the Opera <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>Platz. It is possible, though not
+common, for ladies to be allowed the privileges of this library,
+consisting of over a million volumes and thousands of valuable and
+curious manuscripts. A card of introduction to the Director from an
+influential source gave me the great pleasure of the use both of the
+library and the fine reading-rooms. Considerable time was consumed in
+the preliminaries, and there was red tape to be untied, but in general
+no unnecessary obstacles were thrown in the way even of a woman. On my
+first visit, before the requisite permission to use the library had
+been obtained, I was treated as a visitor, and most politely shown the
+treasures of the institution by intelligent officials. A young man who
+spoke excellent English was given me as a guide by the distinguished
+Director-in-Chief. Classification of the books is carried to great
+minuteness, and it is but the work of a moment, to one familiar with
+its principles, to turn to any book of the million. The apartments are
+plain and crowded, although some of the rooms of the adjoining palace
+had recently been turned into the library, which is fast outgrowing
+its accommodations. The young librarian who acted as our guide was
+eager for information concerning American <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>libraries, asking
+particularly about the size and classification of the Boston Public
+Library. It was a pleasure to respond to one so intelligent and
+interested, and I felt sure he would make good use of every scrap of
+trustworthy information. He showed us his books with pride, and gave
+many interesting particulars. He also displayed to us some of the
+treasures kept in glass cases and usually covered from the light. Here
+were Luther's manuscript translation of the Bible, Gutenberg's Bible,
+the first book printed on movable types, the ancient Codex of the time
+of Charlemagne, miniatures, illuminated missals, and other things of
+much interest. As my dinner-hour approached I begged off for that day
+from the cordially offered inspection of the celebrated Hamilton
+manuscripts. It is said that the highest-priced book ever sold was the
+vellum missal presented to King Henry VIII. by Pope Leo X., which
+brought $50,000. The missal was accompanied by a document conferring
+on the King the title of "Defender of the Faith." It is now in this
+collection, having been given by King Charles II. to an ancestor of
+the Duke of Hamilton, whose manuscripts were purchased by the German
+Government in 1882.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>The tables of the reading-rooms for periodicals are well filled with
+magazines in all languages, and equal politeness is shown by
+officials. The apartments are in the second story, reached by a
+stairway ascending from a paved court off the Behren Strasse, in the
+rear of the Imperial Palace. No lovely spring-time memories are to us
+more vivid and attractive than those of the library reading-room, in
+the second story of the Library building, looking on the Opera Platz.
+Here, among many students of all nationalities from the University, I
+was wont to spend long delicious afternoons at a table of my own
+choosing, to which attentive officials brought the books of my
+selection, and where I was free to turn to books of reference on the
+shelves beside me. The room would accommodate perhaps two hundred,
+similarly employed. Among those I frequently met there were a German
+lady and an American gentleman whom I was so happy as to number among
+my friends. Intercourse between our tables was by smiles and nods,
+seldom crystallizing into words, but these were not wanted. Four
+centuries looked down upon us in portraits from the walls, and forty
+centuries were ours in the books below them. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>As the season advanced,
+the room was not full, and the long French windows stood open. Before
+them was a balcony facing the Platz, with its fountains, its
+shrubbery, and its flowers. The breath of spring and early summer was
+perfumed by mignonette and English violets, as it floated away from
+the murmur and the brightness of the brilliant scenes beyond up
+through every alcove of this quiet scholar's retreat.</p>
+
+<p>Books in English, as in other languages, are many and finely selected,
+though some departments are incomplete. A month's preparation here for
+a trip to Russia and the far North was one of unalloyed pleasure; and
+many volumes from the library were, under the rules, kindly permitted
+to reach and remain on the study-table of my own room while I needed
+them. The department of Scandinavian travel was, however, much more
+scantily represented than Russia. Long shall I have reason to remember
+with gratitude the generous "open sesame" and the rich privileges of
+this library, which, more than most things that enjoy the epithet,
+truly deserves the name Royal.</p>
+
+<p>As no woman can enter the Berlin University as a student, neither is
+it practicable for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>a lady, either as student or visitor, to find
+access to the <i>Gymnasia</i>, which, in the German sense of this term, are
+somewhat in the line of our American colleges. My windows looked into
+those of a fine new building across the street, devoted to the
+instruction of German youth. In through its doors there filed, every
+week-day morning, long lines of German boys and young men for the
+various grades of instruction; and a natural desire arose in the mind
+of an old teacher to "visit the school." But on application to an
+influential friend long resident in Germany, for a note of
+introduction to the Director of the <i>Gymnasium</i>, his hands were lifted
+in unaffected astonishment at the nature of the request, "A woman in a
+boys' school! oh, never! Ask me any other favor but that! Oh, it is
+<i>impossible</i>!" A German lady was more hopeful. She was intimate with
+the wife of the Director, and thought she could gain for me the
+coveted permission. But weeks lengthened into months, and still the
+right to enter even the enclosure sacred to the education of German
+boys was not obtained. So I studied the educational system at first on
+paper, and found many facts of interest. Attendance at the common
+schools <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>is compulsory, all children of both sexes being required to
+attend, in separate buildings, from the ages of five to fourteen.
+Beyond this, the High School offers a training for practical life and
+business, and the <i>Gymnasium</i> a classical and scientific training
+leading to the special studies of the University. The course of study
+in the <i>Gymnasia</i> is similar to those of our colleges, some of the
+studies of the latter, however, being relegated to the University. A
+boy at nine years of age enters the <i>Gymnasium</i> for a course of nine
+years, in which Latin and Greek receive the chief emphasis. The same
+great division of opinion as to the comparative merits of linguistic
+and scientific training which exists in the rest of the world,
+agitates the German mind. The <i>Gymnasium</i> with its classical training
+is the child of the present century, and its growth all along has been
+disputed by those who claim greater advantages from a curriculum which
+lays chief stress on science, omitting the Greek and half the Latin,
+for a part of which modern languages are substituted. This has given
+rise to what are called the Real Schools, corresponding to our
+Scientific Schools. These receive their inspiration from the people
+rather <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>than the learned classes, and are regarded as still on trial.
+Meantime, until quite recently, the graduates of the <i>Gymnasia</i> have
+had a monopoly of competition for positions as teachers and
+opportunity to practise the learned professions. A recent change
+allows graduates of the Real Schools to compete for teacherships. The
+graduates of <i>Gymnasia</i> only are allowed to enter the professions of
+Medicine and Law. The Prussian <i>Gymnasia</i> are about two hundred and
+fifty in number, and the Real Schools somewhat over one hundred. In
+point of military service, these schools are all on an equal footing,
+a pupil who completes a course of six years in either being obliged to
+serve but one year with the colors. It is said that a large number of
+those who graduate in these schools do so for the sake of thus
+shortening their term of military service. I was present at an evening
+entertainment offered by the older students of one <i>Gymnasium</i> to the
+friends of the school. It was a rendering, in Greek, of the Antigone
+of Sophocles, with considerable adjuncts of scenery, costume, and
+Greek chorus. A brief outline of the play in German was distributed to
+the audience. For the rest, a knowledge of Greek was the only key to
+what was said by experts to be well done.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>But if this one personal glimpse of the scholarship of the higher
+schools for boys was all that could be obtained, I was more fortunate
+in finding access to the schools for girls. Not, however, without
+painstaking. It is by no means a matter of course for any visitor to
+knock at the door of a school-room for a call upon the school. The
+coming of visitors is uniformly discouraged; the teachers saying that
+the pupils are not used to it, and that their attention is thereby
+diverted from their studies. A lady of my acquaintance, resident for
+some years in Berlin, asked permission to visit the school which her
+little daughter attended, and was refused. A professional educator
+from abroad, especially a gentleman, if properly introduced, will find
+little difficulty in obtaining access to the schools; but a lady, who
+wishes to go unofficially, will need persistence and courage before
+she effects her object.</p>
+
+<p>A friendly acquaintance with two German teachers smoothed the way,
+perhaps opened it, to a privilege I had hitherto sought in vain. At
+supper one evening I made an engagement to meet one of these ladies in
+the school to which she belonged, early the next morning. In the short
+Berlin days of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>mid-winter one must rise by candle-light to be in time
+for even the second hour of school, if living a half-hour distant. In
+one of the largest hotels of Berlin I saw, the week before Christmas,
+a little fellow, scarcely tall enough for seven years, departing for
+school in the morning, with his knapsack on his back, an hour before
+there would be daylight enough for him to study by. As he sturdily
+went forth from the elegant rooms and brilliantly lighted corridors
+into the cold gray dawn and the snowy streets towards the distant
+school, I said, "There is the way to train Spartans!" The schools
+begin at eight o'clock for girls, at seven for boys, though many go at
+later hours. Those who are not able to pay for instruction attend the
+"common schools," where tuition is free; but those who can must pay at
+the rate of from about five to seven dollars per quarter, in the
+schools denominated "public."</p>
+
+<p>The school to which I went occupies a handsome modern brick edifice,
+and accommodates eight hundred girls. It was ten o'clock, when the
+recess which follows the stroke of each hour (ten minutes) is doubled,
+in order to give time for the "second breakfast"&mdash;bread and butter
+taken in basket or <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>bag&mdash;by both teachers and pupils, to supplement
+the rolls and coffee partaken of by candle-light in winter, which form
+the first breakfast. The teacher whom I knew was waiting for me in the
+corridor, where the busy hum of hundreds of young voices filled the
+air. Handsome and substantial stone staircases fill the central
+portion of the edifice, lighted by a skylight, by windows where a
+transverse corridor reaches to the street, and by ground glass in the
+double doors leading to some of the class-rooms. It was a dark
+morning, and so the corridors were dim enough. Most of the pupils are
+in school from eight to one o'clock. Some of the younger ones come at
+nine, or even ten, and go home at twelve. I was told that instruction
+as to what to do in case of fire in the building is carefully given,
+but saw no fire-escapes, except the stairways. There was provision for
+ventilation in the class-rooms,&mdash;a register near the floor admitting
+pure warm air, and another near the ceiling giving exit to impure air.
+But this mode was quite insufficient to secure good air in most of the
+rooms. I was conducted to the Director of the school, without whose
+permission I could not enter. He was standing <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>in the corridor on the
+third floor, surrounded by several girls, with whom he was talking in
+the manner of a <i>paterfamilias</i>,&mdash;an aged man, with a shrewd but
+kindly face. I was introduced, and the object of my visit stated.
+Bowing and leading the way to his office, he made a slight demurrer as
+to the profit I should reap, but freely accorded the permission, after
+making an entry, apparently from my visiting-card, in his register. My
+friend again took me in charge, and conducted me to another room,
+where I was introduced to the "first instructress," and to five or six
+other lady teachers, all of whom sat, in wooden chairs, around a plain
+wooden table, partaking of their luncheon. Two or three good
+photographs&mdash;one of the Roman forum&mdash;were in frames on the walls; a
+large mirror and a set of lock-boxes gave the teachers toilet
+accommodations; while baskets of knitting and other belongings bespoke
+this as the retiring-room of the lady teachers. The chief of these, a
+kind-faced matronly woman, spoke English imperfectly; but several of
+the younger ones spoke it very well, and one or two were of charming
+manners and appearance.</p>
+
+<p>From a schedule hanging on the wall, I <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>was shown the names and number
+of recitations for the day. "What would I like to see? How long can I
+remain? Will I come again to-morrow?" If the permission to visit a
+school be often difficult to gain, once received, it covers every
+recitation, and as many hours or days as the visitor chooses to devote
+to it. I was first conducted to a recitation in arithmetic. The room
+contained accommodations for fifty pupils, and the seats were filled
+by girls about thirteen or fourteen years of age. Wooden desks and
+seats (the outer row for three pupils each, the central for four
+each), a slightly raised platform for the teacher, with a plain desk
+and two chairs, several cases of butterflies and beetles, on the walls
+a map or two, a small blackboard behind the teacher's desk, in
+grooves, so that it may be elevated or lowered at pleasure, make up
+the furniture of the room. The light, as in every room I visited, was
+from one side, to the left of the pupils. The teacher&mdash;a man with gray
+hair and beard, but young enough as to vivacity and enthusiasm, and a
+gentleman in manners&mdash;bowed me to the chair he offered, and with a
+wave of the hand bade the children, who had risen on our entrance, be
+seated. The lesson <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>was wholly oral and mental. Addition, subtraction,
+and multiplication were carried on by means of numbers, given out with
+so much vivacity and judgment that every eye was fastened on the
+teacher and every mind alert. Most of the right hands were raised for
+answer to every question, with the index finger extended; and the
+pupil selected was chosen now here, now there, to give it audibly.
+Rank was observed from left to right, the lower changing places with
+the higher whenever a failure above and a correct answer below paved
+the way. Large numbers were often used; for example, adding or
+subtracting by sixties, and multiplying far beyond twelve times
+twelve,&mdash;all apparently with equal facility. The second half of the
+hour was devoted to a visit to a class of younger girls. Another
+arithmetic class, taught by a younger gentleman; the pupils were in
+the eighth class, or second year at school,&mdash;age about seven. The room
+accommodated the same number, and was lighted and furnished in a
+similar way. Here figures were written on the blackboard by the
+teacher. The early part of the lesson had evidently been in addition;
+now it was subtraction, which was carefully explained by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>the pupils,
+and the hour closed by a few mental exercises in concert. In the ten
+minutes' recess which followed, I again chatted with the teachers in
+their private room. Thirty teachers are employed to teach these eight
+hundred girls,&mdash;twenty gentlemen and ten ladies. I said that in
+America the lady teachers largely outnumbered the gentlemen. The lady
+with whom I was conversing replied that the upper classes in girls'
+schools were all taught by gentlemen, as the ladies were not prepared
+to pass the required examinations for these positions. "The gentlemen
+have a course in the <i>Gymnasium</i> about equal to that in your
+colleges," she said, "and then pursue a course in the University, in
+order to fit themselves for teachers." "The expense of this is too
+much for ladies?" I inquired. "Yes; and they have not the opportunity.
+They are not admitted to the University of Berlin, and then&mdash;women
+have not the strength for such hard studies"! "How many recitations do
+you hear?" I asked. "The lady teachers, twenty-two per week; the
+gentlemen, twenty-four." "The salaries of the gentlemen are higher?"
+"Oh yes, much higher. They have families to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>support; and then, the
+ladies are unsteady,&mdash;they often marry."</p>
+
+<p>I was now conducted to the upper division of the first class; girls in
+the last of the nine years' course of study,&mdash;ages about fourteen to
+sixteen. This was the only class reciting in English, which within a
+few years has been made a part of the required course, as well as
+French. They were reading in little paper-covered books, in German
+text, the <i>Geisterseher</i> of Schiller, and translating the same into
+English. The teacher was an English gentleman. He wrote occasionally a
+word on the blackboard, when he wished to explain or impress upon the
+memory a term or a synonym,&mdash;as, for instance, "temporarily," and the
+words "soften," "mitigate," "assuage,"&mdash;and corrected such mistakes in
+translation as "guess to" for "guess at," and "declaration" for
+"explanation."</p>
+
+<p>The second division of this first class was in German history. Several
+of the pupils had historical atlases open before them, which covered
+the history of the world from the most ancient times to the present,
+prepared with that excellence which has made German maps famous. The
+compendium used for a class-book was a brief record of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>dates and
+events in Roman type, which is gradually but surely superseding the
+old German letters. The teacher talked of the quarrel between popes
+and emperors in the Middle Ages, and especially of the wars of the
+Investitures. Passing through the corridor after this recitation, I
+inquired the use of a library there, consisting of several hundred
+volumes, and was told it was for the use of the teachers; and that
+there was also one for the use of the pupils, from which they might
+draw books to read at home,&mdash;"some amusing and some instructive."</p>
+
+<p>As "Religion" is marked in the schedule of instruction, and in the
+weekly, monthly, and quarterly reports sent to the parents, I asked to
+see the text-book, and was shown two or three. That for the younger
+pupils was simple, after the manner of our "Bible Stories," of the
+Creation, "Joseph and his Brethren," etc. That for the upper classes
+consisted of several catechisms bound in one, including "Luther's,"
+and supplemented by a number of Psalms, as the 1st, 15th, 23d, 130th,
+to be committed to memory.</p>
+
+<p>I asked if sewing and knitting were taught, and was answered in the
+affirmative. "Is there a teacher for sewing only?" I asked. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>"No;
+formerly there was, but now the teaching of sewing and knitting is
+distributed among all the lady teachers. The teachers have more
+influence with the pupils in this way." A wise remark; as only a
+sewing-teacher of exceptional force and ability can have an influence
+with the pupils to be compared with that of those who teach them
+literature. Embroidery is taught, but only "useful embroidery," as the
+beautiful initial-work on all bed and table linen in Germany is
+called. Some of that shown me in the sewing-room I now visited was
+exquisite, but was outdone, if possible, by the darning. Over a small
+cushion, encased in white cotton cloth, a coarse fabric of stiff
+threads is pinned, after a square has been cut out from it. This hole
+the pupil is to replace by darning, composed of white and colored
+threads. In this instance blue and white threads were woven about the
+pin-heads inserted at some distance outside the edges of the hole, one
+for each thread. The darning replaces the fabric, not only with
+neatness and strength, but in ornamental patterns. Squares, plaids,
+herringbone and lozenge patterns were done by this process in such a
+manner as to be very handsome.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>We now descended to the ground floor, where was a large gymnasium,
+fitted up simply, but with a variety of apparatus. A teacher is
+employed for gymnastics only, but for the reason that until recently
+the other teachers have not had opportunity to prepare for the
+examinations, so strict in Germany on every branch. The children here
+were among the youngest in the school, and were well taught by a lady,
+but with nothing in the method worthy of special note. The last
+half-hour, I listened to a recitation in geography. Girls of ten to
+twelve were numbering and naming the bridges of Berlin, as I entered,
+and the recitation continued for some time on the topography and
+boundaries of their own city. A few general questions were given on
+Germany and its boundaries, and the passes of the Alps, especially the
+Simplon; and the First Napoleon came in for a little discussion. The
+whole method and result in this class were admirable.</p>
+
+<p>The teachers seemed to expect I would come again on the morrow, as I
+had not visited all the classes; and my thanks for the hospitality and
+full opportunity of inspection which I had so much enjoyed, were
+mingled with the apology I felt was needed, that my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>engagements would
+not permit another visit to the school.</p>
+
+<p>I next sought and obtained an introduction to a Girls' High School.
+This was under the patronage of the Empress Augusta, and was said, in
+furnishing and equipment, to be the best in the city. The building is
+a good one, and the furniture more nearly approaching to that of the
+best schools in American cities. We went into two or three classes,
+but were not particularly impressed, favorably or unfavorably, with
+the methods of instruction. Not so in the gymnastic rooms, where we
+went to view the exercises of the Normal class, soon to be graduated.
+No courtesy was shown us by the master in charge, but we were
+tolerantly allowed to take seats. Here were young women about eighteen
+years of age, going through some of the more active exercises, in a
+large and well-fitted room, without a breath of outer air, in sleeves
+so close that their arms were partly raised with difficulty; so
+tightly laced about the waist that the blood rushed to their faces
+whenever they attempted the running exercise sometimes required, and
+with long skirts and the highest of French heels! And yet this is a
+country in which a woman is not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>considered capable of instructing the
+higher classes in gymnastics!</p>
+
+<p>I now essayed to visit a representative girls' school carried on by
+private enterprise. The one to which I obtained introduction&mdash;and this
+was always a particular matter, the time of the visit being arranged
+some days previous by correspondence&mdash;was under the patronage of the
+then Crown Princess, Victoria, whose portrait hung in a conspicuous
+place in the elegantly furnished drawing-room into which I was first
+shown. Soon the principal appeared,&mdash;a lady, who from a small
+beginning about fifteen years before had brought the enterprise to its
+present successful stage, with several hundred pupils in annual
+attendance. There were a number of governesses, and about thirty
+pupils resident in the family, the remainder being day-pupils. When
+asked what I would like to see, as this was a private school, and I
+knew nothing of its methods, I replied that I would leave the
+particulars of my visit to the lady in charge. She still hesitated,
+when I suggested that I should feel interested to visit a class in
+mathematics. The lady lifted her hands in astonishment. "Mathematics!
+for girls? <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>Never! We aim to fit girls to become good wives and
+mothers,&mdash;not to teach them mathematics!" "Do you have no classes in
+arithmetic?" I asked. "Yes, some arithmetic; but higher mathematics
+would only be hostile to their sphere,&mdash;it is not necessary." "Not
+necessary, possibly," I replied; "but in America we do not think
+higher study hostile to the preparation of girls for their duties as
+wives and mothers." "But it is," she replied. "When girls get their
+minds preoccupied with such things, it interferes with the true
+preparation for their life." As I had come to learn this lady's ideas
+of education for girls, not to vindicate mine, I turned the discussion
+into an inquiry as to the ideal of culture she set before her pupils.
+"Girls attempt too many things," was the reply. "They come here, some
+from England and other places, anxious to learn music and languages
+and what not. I tell them it is impossible to do so many things well.
+If they wish to learn music, this is not the place for them. They may
+practise a little,&mdash;an hour or two a day, if they wish,&mdash;but it is
+folly to attempt the study of music with other things. We aim to give
+a thorough training in language and literature; not a smattering, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>but
+such an acquaintance as will enable them to understand the people
+whose tongue they study,&mdash;to look at life through their eyes, and to
+be thoroughly familiar with the masterpieces of their literature. Of
+course, German holds the first place, but French and English are also
+taught." I was taken to a class in German literature. The plain and
+primitive furnishing of the class-rooms was in noticeable contrast to
+the elegance of the parlors. The girls sat on plain wooden benches,
+with desks before them on which their note-books lay open. They used
+these as those who had been trained to take notes and recite from
+them. I had been told that the teacher in charge of this class was one
+of the most excellent in the city. The hour was occupied by a lecture
+on Lessing, a poet whom the class were evidently studying with German
+minuteness.</p>
+
+<p>I also visited a class in reading,&mdash;younger girls, about ten or twelve
+years of age. They were admirably taught, both in reading and
+memorizing, the latter chiefly of German ballads. I saw no better
+teaching done in Berlin than that of this class. Its enthusiastic lady
+teacher would be a treasure in any land. The last visit of the morning
+was to a class <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>in vocal music, taught by a gentleman. It was
+interesting as affording a view of the methods in this music-loving
+country, but did not differ materially from what would be considered
+good instruction and drill on this side the water. The teacher himself
+played the piano, the pupils standing in rows on either side.</p>
+
+<p>In the teachers' dressing-room, a comfortable apartment for the
+teachers who came from without the building, I chatted a few moments
+with two or three ladies. One spoke English so well that I asked if it
+were her vernacular. She appeared gratified by the compliment; said
+she had been much in other continental countries, and had spent three
+years in England, with eighteen months beside in the United States.
+She mistook me for an Englishwoman, and confidently informed me that
+she had feared her English accent was ruined by the time spent "in the
+States." "Did you find it so?" I inquired. "No," she said;
+"fortunately I was able to correct it by stopping in England on my way
+back." She had evidently not met the gentleman who informed his
+English friends that they must go to Boston, Massachusetts, if they
+would hear English spoken correctly. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>While in Berlin I heard of a
+young American who was accosted by an Englishman with a question as to
+what language she spoke. "I speak American," was the reply, "but I can
+understand English if it is spoken slowly."</p>
+
+<p>The wish to learn English is almost universal among Germans, and the
+schools have not been before public opinion in making it a part of the
+curriculum. The result as yet, however, judging from our observation,
+will justify greater painstaking and more practice, before a high
+degree of accuracy is reached among the pupils.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep078.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 78." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep079.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 79." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>IV.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>CHURCHES.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />he greatest Protestant power of Continental Europe has no
+Court-churches worthy in appearance of companionship with its palaces
+and public buildings. But there are those of much historical and other
+interest, and in some of them the living power of Christianity bears
+sway. The <i>Dom</i>, or Cathedral, dating from the time of Frederick the
+Great, is far inferior, within and without, to the magnificent
+buildings which surround it, facing the <i>Lustgarten</i>, or Esplanade.
+Long ago royal plans were made to replace it by an edifice more
+worthy, but these have not been carried out, though since the
+accession of Emperor <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>William II. measures have been taken looking
+toward the erection of a new cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>The usual hour for Sunday-morning service is ten o'clock. The latitude
+of Berlin is over ten degrees farther north than that of New York and
+Chicago, and the sun at ten o'clock in winter is about as high as at
+nine o'clock in the latter cities. So it is only by special effort
+that a midwinter sojourner in Berlin can be at morning service. Within
+three minutes of the time appointed, on my first visit, the aged
+Emperor William entered the <i>Dom</i> and stood for a few minutes in the
+attitude of devotion, as did the other members of the Imperial
+household. The gallery on the left of the preacher was occupied by
+three boxes,&mdash;one for the Emperor, one for the Crown Prince and his
+family, and one for their retinues. The service proceeded in the
+language of the people,&mdash;that language created and preserved to
+Germany by Luther's translation of the Bible. A finely trained choir
+of some sixty singers led the music, all the people joining in the
+psalms and hymns; the Imperial family taking part in the service with
+simplicity and appearance of sincerity, as those who stood, with all
+present, in the presence of Him with whom is no respect of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>persons.
+The plain interior of the <i>Dom</i> has a painting behind the altar, and
+the large candles in immense candlesticks on either side were burning
+before a crucifix throughout the entire service. This we found true
+also in most of the other churches,&mdash;a reminder that, wide as was the
+gulf between the Lutheran Church and that of Rome, the former retained
+some customs which Puritanism discarded. Pews fill the central part of
+this cathedral, and the broad aisle skirting the side at the left of
+the front entrance has a few seats for the delicate and infirm of the
+throng which always stands there at the time for the morning service.</p>
+
+<p>It was in this church that the departed Emperor William I. lay in
+state for the great funeral pageant when his ninety-one years of life
+were over. Here in the vaults many members of Prussia's royal family
+repose, and here many stately ceremonies have taken place. At the door
+of this cathedral Emperor William I., then Prince Regent, stood with
+uncovered head to receive the remains of Alexander Von Humboldt, which
+here lay in state in May, 1859, after the great scholar "went forth"
+for the last time from his home in the Oranienburger Strasse.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>We attended a service at the oldest of the Berlin churches, the
+Nicolai Kirche, and found the sparseness of the audience in striking
+contrast with the crowds which frequented most of the other churches
+where we went. Standing-room is usually at a premium in the Cathedral,
+the Garrison Church, and the place, wherever it may be, in which
+Dryander preaches; and in nearly all the churches unoccupied seats are
+hard to find. This is due, not to the large numbers of church-going
+people in Berlin, but to the comparatively limited church
+accommodations. It is not too soon that the present Emperor has given
+order that the number of churches and sittings be immediately
+increased. In this city of about a million and a half inhabitants,
+there are only about seventy-five churches and chapels, all told; none
+very large, and some quite small. It is said that Dryander's parish
+numbers forty thousand souls, and that there are other parishes
+including eighty thousand and one hundred and twenty thousand each.
+Only about two per cent of the population attend church. Ties to a
+particular church seem scarcely to exist in many cases; those who go
+to Divine service following their favorite <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>preacher from place to
+place as he ministers now in one part, now in another, of his vast
+parish, or going to the Court Church to see the Imperial family, or to
+some other which happens to offer fine music or some special
+attraction for the day. Churches do not need, however, to offer
+special attractions nor to advertise sensational novelties in order to
+be filled, and of course there are many humble and devout Christians
+found in the same places from week to week.</p>
+
+<p>The Nicolai Kirche dates from before 1250 <span class="fakesc">A.D.</span> and the great
+granite foundations of the towers were laid still earlier. At this
+period the savage Wends and the robber-castles of North Germany were
+yielding to the prowess of the Knights of the Teutonic Order, and the
+powerful Hanseatic League was uniting its free cities and cementing
+its commercial interests, of which Berlin was erelong to be a part,&mdash;a
+League which was to sweep the Baltic by its fleets, and to set up and
+dethrone kings by its armies. Already the Crusades had broken the long
+sleep of the Dark Ages, and stirred the people with that mighty
+impulse which brought the culmination, in the thirteenth century, of
+the great church-building epoch of Europe in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>Middle Ages. No
+great churches which they could not live to finish were begun by he
+frugal burghers of Berlin; but they had a style of their own in the
+brick Gothic, which is the most truly national architecture of North
+Germany. The Nicolai Kirche is a representative of these early times
+and of this national architecture, but its interior decorations show
+every variety of adornment which prevailed during five centuries after
+its founding. Not alone the history of art is represented on the inner
+walls of this venerable and unique edifice, but the municipal history,
+and the history of the "Mark of Brandenburg," and the Kingdom of
+Prussia as well.</p>
+
+<p>Almost as ancient as the Nicolai Kirche is the Heiliggeist Kirche,
+behind the B&ouml;rse. Near this is the Marien Kirche, with its high spire,
+its Abbot's Cross&mdash;the emblem of Old Berlin&mdash;before the entrance, and
+on the inner walls its frescos of the Dance of Death, painted to
+commemorate the plague which ravaged Berlin in 1460. Adjoining this
+church, in the Neue Markt, Berlin's statue of Luther is to be erected.
+Of the same old time, and in the same old heart of Berlin, is the fine
+Kloster Kirche of the Franciscan <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>monks, who had once a monastery
+adjoining. A morning's stroll or two enables one to inspect all these
+interesting old churches,&mdash;passing first to the Nicolai Kirche from
+the end of the tramway in the Fisch Markt, and then, by a convenient
+circuit, to each of the others, returning by the Museums and the
+Lustgarten. The Jerusalems Kirche, about three quarters of a mile
+south, is said to have been founded by a citizen at the end of the
+Crusades as a memento of his journey to Palestine; but its present
+ornamented architecture belongs to a modern reconstruction. An
+effective architectural group is formed by the two churches in the
+Schiller Platz, with the great <i>Schauspielhaus</i>, or Royal Theatre,
+between them,&mdash;a view which soon becomes familiar to one passing often
+through the central part of the city. The French Church, on the north
+side of the Theatre, we did not enter, and of the "New Church"&mdash;a
+hundred years old and recently rejuvenated&mdash;our most abiding memories
+are of an exquisite sacred concert given there in aid of a local
+charity. We made a pilgrimage to see the effect of this group by
+moonlight, but, perhaps because it had been too highly praised, we
+found the view rather <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>disappointing. But we shall long remember a
+walk at evening twilight through this place, when early dusk and
+gleaming gas-jets around and within the square had taken the place of
+departing sunlight, which still bathed in radiance the gilded figures
+surmounting the domes in the clear upper air. Few of the hurrying
+multitudes stopped to look upward, but those who did could hardly fail
+to gain an impressive lesson from the inspiring and suggestive sight.</p>
+
+<p>Frommel, the good man and attractive preacher who usually officiates
+in the Garrison Church, is one of the four Court-preachers, each of
+whom is eminent in his way. We sat one morning, with many others, on
+the steps to the chancel in the Garrison Church, as the house was
+crowded in every part. The spacious galleries were filled with
+soldiers in Prussian uniform, and many also were in the pews below.
+The soldiers were not there merely in obedience to orders. They
+listened intently, for Court-preacher Frommel has a message to the
+minds and hearts of men. His oratory is eloquent, scintillating; from
+first to last it holds captive the crowded audience. Never have I
+witnessed gestures which were so <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>essentially a part of the speaker;
+hands so incessantly assisting to convey subtle thought and feeling
+from the brain and heart of the orator to the magnetized audience,
+whose faces unconsciously testified to a mental and spiritual
+uplifting. It was told me that the aged Emperor never travelled from
+his capital without the attendance of this chaplain, as well known for
+his simple Christian integrity and his ceaseless good deeds as for his
+wonderful eloquence.</p>
+
+<p>Trinity Church, where for a quarter of a century Schleiermacher
+preached and wrought, is now ministered to by the worthy Dryander and
+his colleagues, who faithfully do what they can for the spiritual
+welfare of the immense parish. The edifice, of a peculiar model,
+stands in a central portion of Berlin, almost under the shadow of the
+lofty and famous hotel known as the Kaiserhof. On the Sunday mornings
+when Dryander preaches here, aisles, vestibules, and stairways are
+crowded until there is no standing-room, much less a seat, within
+sight or hearing of the popular preacher. His manner is simple, but
+very forceful and sympathetic, his earnest face and voice holding the
+audience like a spell.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>The finest religious music in Berlin is rendered on Friday evenings at
+sunset, in the great Jewish synagogue in the Oranienburger Strasse,
+built at a cost of six million marks, and said to be the best in
+Europe. The spacious interior seats nearly five thousand, with pews on
+the main floor for men only, and galleries for the women. Three
+thousand burning gas-jets above and behind the rich stained glass of
+the dome and side windows give an effect remarkable both for beauty
+and weirdness. The building without loses much by its close
+surroundings of ordinary houses, but the Moorish arches and
+decorations within are unique and effective. Over the sacred
+enclosure, where a red light always burns, and which contains the ark
+"of the law and the testimony," a gallery across the eastern end holds
+the fine organ, and accommodates the choir of eighty trained singers.
+Christmas eve happened in 1886 on a Friday; so, before the later
+German Christian home festival to which we were invited, we wended our
+way to the Jewish weekly sunset service. Neither among the men nor the
+women was there much outward evidence of devotion. In the female
+countenances around me in the gallery the well-known Jewish
+physiognomy <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>was almost universal. While the rabbi read the service,
+with his back to the audience, most followed in their Hebrew books;
+but one by one many men slipped out, as though they were "on 'Change"
+and did not care to stay any longer to-day. The women remained, but
+with a slightly perfunctory air in most cases. One old crone before me
+seemed touched with the true pathos which belongs to her race and its
+history. She followed the service intently, swaying her body back and
+forth in time with the beautiful music, and ever and anon breaking
+forth in a low, sweet, plaintive strain with her own voice. Oh the
+longing of such lives, waiting to find through the centuries the
+realization of a hope never fulfilled and growing ever more and more
+dim! My Puritanism had been scarcely reconciled to the crucifix and
+the candles of the Protestant churches in Berlin, but now, if my life
+and hopes had depended on the religion of this Jewish ceremonial, I
+would have given worlds to find a crucifix in the vacant space above
+their Sacred Ark. These sweet strains of exquisite music seem to give
+voice without articulation to the unrevealed, imprisoned longing of
+the Jewish heart for something better than it knows. I could only
+compare <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>the feeling, in this cold, mechanical worship of the
+Fatherhood of God, as it seemed to me, with the vague disappointment
+of climbing stairs in the dark, and stretching out foot and hand for
+another which is not there. The Christmas torches were burning in the
+Schloss-platz and the market-places without, crowded for days and
+nights past with a busy multitude, making ready for the
+Christ-festival which was to light a Christmas-tree that night in
+every home in Germany. Even Jews could not resist the gladness; and
+their homes, like the rest, had every one its Christmas-tree and its
+fill of cheer, paying their tribute to the world-wide joy, even though
+they would not. But as I sat among them and went forth with them, I
+thought also of their ancestral line stretching back to Abraham
+through centuries of the most wonderful history which belongs to any
+race. Beside these Israelites, how puerile the fame and deeds of the
+Hohenzollerns! The sixty or seventy thousand Jews of Berlin hold in
+their hands, it is said, a large part of the wealth of the city; but
+they are proscribed, and it is thought by many, unjustly treated
+before the law.</p>
+
+<p>The one English church in Berlin rejoices <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>in a new and beautiful
+though chaste and modest edifice in the gardens of Monbijou Palace.
+The site, presented by the Emperor William I., is in the heart of the
+city, surrounded, in this quiet and beautiful place, by many
+interesting historic associations. The edifice was built chiefly
+through the efforts of the Crown Princess Victoria, who raised in
+London in a few hours a large part of the necessary funds, and who
+also devoted to this object, so dear to her English heart, presents
+received at her silver wedding. The service attracts on Sunday
+mornings, of course, all adherents of the Church of England, as well
+as many Americans, to whom the magnet of an Episcopal service is
+greater than that of the association of Christians of all
+denominations in the devout and simple worship of the Chapel in Junker
+Strasse, where the Union American and British service is held. One of
+the first places we essayed to find in Berlin was the chapel at
+present used by this organization. Our German landlady had unwittingly
+misdirected us, and we insisted on her direction, to the bewilderment
+of our cabman. Up one strange street and down another he drove, with
+sundry protests and shakes of the head on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>our part. We insist on
+"Heulmann Strasse." He stops and inquires. "Nein! nein!" he says,
+"Junker Strasse." "No! no!" we reply. He holds a conference with two
+brother drosky-men. Three Germans "of the male persuasion" outside
+insist on "Junker Strasse." Three Americans "of the female persuasion"
+inside insist on "Heulmann Strasse." "Nein!" says the man, with a
+determined air, and takes the reins now as though he means business.
+We lean back in our seats, resigned to going wrong because we cannot
+help ourselves, when lo! we draw up at the door of the building used
+by the American church in Junker Strasse. Those barbarous men were
+right, after all! Late; but how our hearts were warmed and cheered by
+the sight of a plain audience-room, holding about two hundred
+English-speaking people; the pulpit draped in our dear old American
+flag, and another on the choir-gallery! How precious were the simple
+devout hymns and prayers in our own tongue wherein we were born! There
+was an American Thanksgiving sermon,&mdash;eloquent, earnest, magnetic.
+Strangers in a strange land, we felt that we could never be homesick
+in a city where was such a service. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>This Union Church service was
+established some twenty-five or thirty years ago, Governor Wright,
+then United States Minister to Germany, being prominently connected
+with its beginnings. There is now a regular church organization, with
+the Bible and the Apostles' Creed as its doctrinal basis. For eight or
+nine years past, the present pastor, the Rev. J.H.W. St&uuml;ckenberg,
+D.D., born in Germany, but a loyal and devoted soldier and citizen of
+the American Republic, has, with his accomplished wife, been
+indefatigable in caring for the services, and administering to the
+needs&mdash;physical, social, and religious&mdash;of Americans in Berlin. The
+first gathering which we attended in the city was an American
+Thanksgiving Banquet, under the auspices of the "Ladies' Social Union"
+connected with this "American Chapel." Invitations were issued to an
+"American Home Gathering," for Thanksgiving evening, to be held in the
+Architectenhaus at six o'clock. Greetings, witty and wise, were
+extended to the assembled company of some two hundred, by a lady from
+Boston; grace was said by Professor Mead, formerly of Andover, and the
+American Thanksgiving dinner was duly appreciated, though some <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>of us
+had in part forestalled its appetizing pleasures by attendance at a
+delightful private afternoon dinner-party, where the true home flavors
+had been heightened by the shadow of the American flag which draped
+its silken folds above the table, depending from candelabra in which
+"red, white, and blue" wax lights were burning.</p>
+
+<p>Only the initiated can know what such an American Thanksgiving dinner
+as that given in this public entertainment in Germany must mean to the
+painstaking ladies, who need to direct every detail in contravention
+of the established customs of the country. Turkey was forthcoming, but
+cranberries were sought far and wide in vain, until Dresden at last
+sent an imitation of the American berry, to keep it company. Mince
+pies were regarded as essential to the feast. As pies are here
+unknown, the pie-plates must be made to order after repeated and
+untold minuteness of direction to the astonished tinman. The ordinary
+kitchen ranges of Germany are without ovens, and all cake and pastry,
+as well as bread, must emerge from the baker's oven. So to the shop of
+the baker two ladies repaired, to mix with their own hands the pastry
+and to prepare the mince-meat, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>graciously declining the yeast and
+eggs offered them for the purpose. The delicious results justified in
+practical proof the tireless endeavor for a real home-like American
+dinner. Our German friends laughed at the "dry banquet" where only
+lemonade and coffee kept the viands company, but right good cheer was
+not wanting. Before the guests rose from table, the pastor read
+letters of regret from Minister Pendleton (absent in affliction) and
+others, and proposed the health of the President of the United States
+and of Mrs. Cleveland, who, as Miss Folsom, shared in the Berlin
+festivities of Americans at Thanksgiving the year before. The toast
+which followed&mdash;to the aged Emperor William&mdash;was most cordially
+responded to by a member of the Empress's household, Count Bernsdorff,
+endeared to many in both hemispheres by his active interest in
+whatsoever things are true and of good report. Rare music was
+discoursed at intervals, from a band in the gallery, alternating with
+amateur performers on the violin and piano, from under the German and
+American flags intertwined at the opposite end of the handsome hall.
+The good name of American students of music in Berlin was well
+deserved, judging <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>from their contributions to the enjoyment of this
+occasion. The evening's programme closed with our national airs in
+grand chorus, cheering and inspiring all. To some hearts the dear
+melody of "The Suwanee River," which afterwards floated out on the
+evening air of the busy city, mingled a pathos before unsuspected with
+the good-nights and the adieus, and brought an undertone of sadness
+caused by the knowledge that we were far from home, and that our loved
+ones, from Atlantic to Pacific, were returning from their Thanksgiving
+sermon, or later gathering about the festal board, at the hour when
+we, wanderers, were clustered in the heart of the German Empire with
+like purpose and in like precious faith and memory.</p>
+
+<p>The Sunday services of this enterprise are now held in an edifice
+belonging to a German Methodist church, which can be had for one
+service only, at an hour which will not interfere with the uses which
+have a prior claim. The Sunday evenings, when a goodly congregation
+might be gathered if a suitable audience-room could be had, are times
+of loneliness and homesickness to many American youth and others far
+from home and friends. Dr. and Mrs. St&uuml;ckenberg have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>generously
+opened their own pleasant home at 18 B&uuml;low Strasse for Sunday-evening
+receptions to Americans. Their large and beautiful apartments were
+much too small to accommodate all who would gladly have gathered
+there. But in the course of the season there were few Americans
+attending the morning service who were not to be met, one Sunday
+evening or another, in the parlors of the pastor and his wife; and
+many others, students, were nearly always there. A half-hour was given
+on these occasions to social greetings; then followed familiar hymns,
+led by the piano and a volunteer choir of young people, after which an
+informal lecture was given by the pastor. Dr. St&uuml;ckenberg emigrated
+with his parents to America in early childhood, but has studied in the
+Universities of Halle, G&ouml;ttingen, Berlin, and T&uuml;bingen. His large
+acquaintance with German scholars enabled him to give most interesting
+reminiscences of the teaching and personality of some of these, his
+teachers and friends. Among the talks which we remember vividly were
+those on Tholuck, D&ouml;rner, and Von Ranke. At another time Dr.
+St&uuml;ckenberg gave a series of lectures on Socialism,&mdash;a theme whose
+manifold aspects <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>he has studied profoundly, and which, in Germany as
+elsewhere, is the question of the hour, the day, and the century, and
+perhaps of the next century too. After the lecture there generally
+followed prayer and another hymn, and always slight refreshments,&mdash;tea
+and sandwiches, or little cakes,&mdash;over which all chatted and were free
+to go when they would. Many were the occasions when, in these
+gatherings, every heart seemed to partake of the gladness radiated by
+the magnetic host and hostess; and all Europe seemed brighter because
+of these homelike, social, Christian Sunday evenings which lighted up
+the sojourn in Berlin. The effort now being made to build a permanent
+and commodious church edifice for Americans in Berlin is a pressing
+necessity.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Christlieb, the eminent Professor of Theology and University
+Preacher in Bonn, asserts that the number of American students in
+Berlin is now by far the largest congregated in any one place in
+Germany. The number, as stated in 1888 by Rev. Dr. Philip Schaff, was
+about four hundred, besides the numerous American travellers there
+every year for a longer or shorter time. Seventeen denominations have
+been represented in this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>church in a single year, and any evangelical
+minister in good standing in his own church is eligible to election as
+its pastor. From the beginning these union services have been entirely
+harmonious; and Methodists, Congregationalists, Presbyterians,
+Baptists, Lutherans, and Episcopalians have been chiefly active in
+promoting them.</p>
+
+<p>The churches of the royal suburb of Potsdam possess an interest quite
+equal to that of those in Berlin. The Potsdam Garrison Church, in
+general interior outlines, reminds one of some quaint New England
+meeting-house of the early part of the eighteenth century. But here
+the resemblance ceases. The ancient arrangement of windows and
+galleries impresses one only at the moment of entering, attention
+being presently diverted to the flags clustered on the gallery pillars
+and on either side the pulpit, in two rows,&mdash;the lower captured from
+the French in the wars with the First Napoleon, the upper taken in the
+late contests with Austria and with Napoleon III. Altar-cloths and
+other furnishings are heavily embroidered with the handiwork of
+vanished queens. But the chief interest centres in the vault under the
+handsome marble pulpit. In this vault, on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>left, are the mortal
+remains of the old Prussian King, Frederick William I.,&mdash;father of
+Frederick the Great,&mdash;a character hard to understand, and interpreted
+differently as one surveys him in the light of Macaulay's genius or
+that of Carlyle. But one cannot help hoping that the final verdict
+will be with the latter; and as we stand in this solemn place, memory
+recalls the day&mdash;the midnight, rather&mdash;when this same oak coffin, long
+before the death of the King made ready by his orders in the old
+Palace of Potsdam close at hand, at last received its burden, and was
+borne in Spartan simplicity to this place, the torch-lighted band
+playing his favorite dirge,&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Oh, Sacred Head, now wounded!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="noin">On the right, separated from the coffin of his father only by the
+short aisle, is that of Frederick the Great. Three wreaths were lying
+upon it,&mdash;placed there by the Emperor and by the Crown Prince and the
+Crown Princess on the hundredth anniversary of the death of this
+founder of Prussia's greatness, August 17, 1886. Fortunate is the
+visitor to Potsdam who does not altogether overlook this Garrison
+Church, misled by the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>brief mention usually accorded to it in the
+guide-books.</p>
+
+<p>The Friedenskirche, near the entrance to the park of Sans Souci, has a
+detached high clock-tower adjoining, and cloisters beautiful, even in
+winter, with the myrtle and ivy and evergreens of the protected court
+which they surround. In the inner court is a copy of Thorwaldsen's
+celebrated statue of Christ (the original at Copenhagen); also,
+Rauch's original "Moses, supported by Aaron and Hur," and a beautiful
+<i>Pieta</i> is in the opposite colonnade. The church is in the form of the
+ancient basilica, which is not favorable to much adornment. A crucifix
+of <i>lapis lazuli</i> under a canopy resting on jasper columns&mdash;a present
+from the Czar Nicholas&mdash;stands on the marble altar. A beautiful angel
+in Carrara marble adorns the space before the chancel, above the
+burial-slabs of King Frederick William IV., founder of the church, and
+his queen; and the apse is lined with a rare old Venetian mosaic. But
+the chief interest of this "Church of Peace" will henceforth centre
+around it as the burial-place of the Emperor Frederick III. In an
+apartment not formerly shown to the public, his young son, Waldemar,
+was laid to rest at the age of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>eleven years, deeply mourned by the
+Crown Prince, the Crown Princess, and their family. Here in this
+church, beside his sons Waldemar and Sigismund, who died in infancy,
+it was the wish of the dying father to lie buried. Here the quiet
+military funeral service was held; here the last look of that noble
+face was taken amid the tears of those who loved him well, while the
+sunlight, suddenly streaming through an upper window, illuminated as
+with an electric light that face at rest, as the Court-preacher Ko&euml;gel
+uttered the words of solemn trust,&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"What God doeth is well done."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="noin">Fitting it is that in this "Church of Peace" should rest all that was
+mortal of the immortal Prince who could say, as he entered Paris in
+the flush of victory: "Gentlemen, I do not like war. If I should
+reign, I would never make it."</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep102.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 102." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep103.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 103." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>V.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>MUSEUMS.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />he chief art treasures of Berlin are found in the Royal Museums, Old
+and New, and in the National Gallery. There are few more
+characteristic and inspiring sights in Europe than that which greets
+the eye in a walk on a sunny afternoon in winter from the palace of
+Kaiser Wilhelm I. through the Operahaus Platz and the Zeughaus Platz,
+across the Schloss Br&uuml;cke and the Lustgarten, to the peerless building
+of the Old Museum,&mdash;with the grand equipages, the brilliant uniforms,
+and the busy but not overcrowded life which throng the vast spaces of
+these handsome thoroughfares. The Old Museum is not so rich in
+masterpieces as some other and older art galleries, but there are many
+fine original works. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>Friezes from the Altar of Zeus, excavated
+within a few years at Pergamus, are extremely interesting, and are
+exhibited with all the adjuncts which the most thorough German
+scholarship can supply for their elucidation. The celebrated Raphael
+tapestry, woven for Henry VIII. from the cartoons now in the South
+Kensington Museum, and long the foremost ornament of the palace of
+Whitehall, hangs in the great upper rotunda, which is a setting not
+unworthy of its fame. Michael Angelo's "John the Baptist as a Boy,"
+one of his early works, is quite unlike most of this master's work, in
+conception and execution, and is interesting especially on this
+account. The "Altar-piece of the Mystic Lamb" is remarkable for its
+merits and because it is reputed to be the first picture ever painted
+in oils. Murillo's "Ecstasy of Saint Anthony" is a picture of rare
+sweetness and power. In one room are five of Raphael's Madonnas, but
+only one of them is in his better style. "The collection of pictures
+in the Old Museum," wrote George Eliot in 1855, "has three gems which
+remain in the imagination,&mdash;'Titian's Daughter,' Correggio's 'Jupiter
+and Io,' and his 'Head of Christ on a Handkerchief.' I was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>pleased,
+also, to recognize among the pictures the one by Jan Steem which
+Goethe describes in the 'Wahlverwandschaften' as the model of a
+<i>tableau vivant</i> presented by Lucian and her friends. It is the
+daughter being reproved by her father, while the mother empties her
+wine-glass."</p>
+
+<p>The department of the Museum known as the Antiquarium has its
+treasures. Here is the original silver table service, supposed to be
+that of a Roman General, dug up in 1868 near the old German medi&aelig;val
+town of Hildesheim. A handsome copy of this service is among the
+beginnings of Chicago's Art collections. Here are the exquisite
+terra-cotta statuettes from the ancient Grecian Colony of Tanagra,
+which no modern work of plastic art can imitate in grace of form and
+delicacy of color,&mdash;dating three or four hundred years before the
+Christian era; and in other rooms, a fabulous collection of jewels,
+and numberless precious vases, illustrating especially the progress of
+Ancient Grecian Art.</p>
+
+<p>The New Museum, connected by a colonnade with the Old, is not, like
+it, remarkable for architectural beauty; but its vast collections,
+especially in marble, already need and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>are to have a new building.
+The masterpieces of ancient sculpture gathered at Munich, Vienna,
+Paris, Rome, Naples, and elsewhere, are here reproduced in casts,
+making up a collection said to be, in its way, unrivalled in the
+world. The collection of originals in Renaissance sculpture is also
+extensive and valuable.</p>
+
+<p>Referring to sculpture in Berlin, George Eliot wrote: "We went again
+and again to look at the Parthenon Sculptures, and registered a vow
+that we would go to feast on the originals [in the British Museum] the
+first day we could spare in London." At the date before mentioned, her
+opinion was that "the first work of art really worth looking at that
+one sees in Berlin is the 'Horse-Tamers' in front of the [Old] palace.
+It is by a sculptor [Baron Clodt, of St. Petersburg] who made horses
+his especial study; and certainly, to us, they eclipsed the famous
+Colossi at Monte Cavallo, casts of which are in [before] the New
+Museum."</p>
+
+<p>The Department of Coins has 200,000 specimens, many very old and rare;
+and that of Northern Antiquities illustrates with great fulness the
+prehistoric and Roman periods. The Cabinet of Engravings is extremely
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>interesting, and has some specimens of very great value; but it is
+open to the general public for a few hours on Sunday only, and even
+then the greater part of its collections is reserved to art students,
+who have the entire monopoly of its treasures on other days of the
+week. It well repays persistent effort, however, to make a few quiet
+visits to this rare cabinet. Some of the finest works are hung on the
+walls of the pleasant rooms.</p>
+
+<p>The famous mural paintings by Kaulbach adorning the upper staircase
+walls of the New Museum are widely admired, but critics differ in the
+estimate of their place as works of art. The upper saloons reached by
+this staircase show the cartoons of Cornelius, and foreshadow a
+grandeur in German art not yet realized.</p>
+
+<p>The third building in the group which holds the chief art treasures of
+Berlin is the National Gallery, its pictures partaking, as such a
+collection should, strongly of the German spirit as shown in modern
+German art. The paintings are of various degrees of merit, many being
+of value chiefly as reflecting the national life. A fine portrait of
+Mommsen arrested me, on one visit; a striking picture, "Christ healing
+a Sick Child in its Mother's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>Arms," by Gabriel Max, was a continual
+favorite; and many others were among those to which we went frequently
+and before which we lingered long.</p>
+
+<p>The crowning excellence of all the Royal Art Collections is their
+singular method and completeness. The Old Museum, especially, in its
+arrangement and illustration of the history of painting in all
+schools, is without a peer, and it is particularly rich in the early
+Italian masters. The National Gallery in London has been compared in
+arrangement with the Berlin Museum, but our observation showed nowhere
+else in Europe so great facility for systematic study of art as here.</p>
+
+<p>Quite recently, a writer in the "London Art Journal," in comparing
+European art galleries, characterizes the Italian galleries, except
+the Pitti, as mere storehouses of pictures, so great have been the
+accessions, in late years, of altar-pieces from suppressed convents;
+while, on the other hand, the Louvre, and the galleries of Munich,
+Dresden, Vienna, St. Petersburg, and Madrid still retain their
+original characteristics as collections made by persons of taste and
+discrimination. "The Berlin Gallery," says this writer, "is neither a
+storehouse nor a collection. It <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>stands on a footing of its own. The
+studious and organizing Prussian mind soon handed over the management
+of all its collections to a body of specialists, trained to study the
+objects in their keeping and to arrange them not so much for the
+delight as for the information of a studious public. The Berlin
+Gallery has been thus arranged, and its additions have been purchased
+under the direction of scholars and historians rather than artists and
+<i>dilettanti</i>. Historical sequence and historical completeness have
+been aimed at. The collection is intended to exemplify the development
+of the art of painting in medi&aelig;val and renascence Europe. It is
+impossible to enter the Museum gallery and not be struck with this
+fact. The visitor finds himself turned into a student of the history
+of painting, as he wanders from room to room. The ordering of the
+pictures, the information contained in the catalogue,&mdash;everything
+points in the same direction. So clearly has the Museum come to be
+understood at Berlin as a kind of art-history branch of a university,
+that a portion of the funds devoted to it is annually spent upon the
+publication of a periodical universally recognized as the leading
+magazine in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>world devoted to the history of art. By means of it,
+students in all countries are informed from year to year of the new
+acquisitions and discoveries made by the staff of the Museum, or by
+the leading authors and students of the subject, of all nationalities.
+The Berlin collection has thus won for itself a place as the
+historical collection <i>par excellence</i>."</p>
+
+<p>The Museums are under the care of a Director-General, with nine or
+more Directors of Departments. Dr. Julius Meyer, Director of the
+Picture-Gallery, is said to be probably unequalled by any living
+writer for a wide and philosophic grasp of the whole subject of Art
+History, to which his life has been devoted; while the names of
+distinguished scholars and professors at the head of the other
+departments are guaranties of similar excellence. A series of four
+illustrated volumes is now in process of publication, which will
+present, in photographs and engravings, large or small, every picture
+of importance in the gallery. The text of these volumes, by Drs. Meyer
+and Bode, will be extremely valuable, and the whole will doubtless
+stand foremost among publications designed as exponents of European
+galleries.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>The fine and massive building of the Arsenal, opposite the palace of
+the late Crown Prince, dates from the time of Frederick I., last of
+the Electors and first of the Prussian Kings. The grand sculptures of
+the German artist Schl&uuml;ter, who was afterwards called to the aid of
+Peter the Great in the creation of St. Petersburg, adorn the exterior
+of the edifice. Any chance walk along the Linden will arrest the
+attention to this building, with the remarkable heads of dying
+warriors carved in the keystones of its window arches. In the
+renovation of the Arsenal a few years since, no improvement was made
+on the exterior, except to remove the accumulations of smoke and dust
+which a hundred and seventy years had deposited there. After the close
+of the Franco-Prussian War, it was the thought of the aged Emperor to
+make this Arsenal, already crowded with an immense collection of arms,
+armor, and trophies, into a kind of Walhalla,&mdash;a National Hall of
+Fame. This was fully carried out. In rooms on the ground floor one may
+read the whole history of ordnance, old and new, including the famous
+Armstrong and Krupp guns. A portion of this floor is devoted to models
+of fortresses, plans of battles, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>captured flags. There is a war
+library; and the celebrated pictures of the Giant Grenadiers, painted
+with his own hand by Frederick William I., father of Frederick the
+Great, are also to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>A magnificent double staircase under a glass roof leads to the second
+floor (in Germany called the first), where one portion is devoted to
+an interesting collection of arms, which is, however, inferior to
+those of one or two other European cities. The chief attraction to the
+visitor, as well as a permanent magnet to the patriotic Berlinese, who
+come hither in whole families, is the "Hall of Fame," consisting of
+three sections, all splendid in mosaic floors and massive marble
+pillars, and adorned with sculpture and fine historical frescos. One
+of the latter represents the Coronation of the first King of Prussia
+at K&ouml;nigsberg, and another has for its subject the Proclamation of the
+German Empire at Versailles. The Central Hall is adorned with bronze
+statues of the Great Elector, of the Fredericks and Frederick-Williams
+of the Prussian royal line, and of the Emperor William I. The "Halls
+of the Generals," on either side of this "Hall of the Rulers," have
+busts of the military leaders, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>including a fine one of the Crown
+Prince. Here are also several historical paintings; prominent among
+which are "The Battle of Turin," "The Emperor William and the Crown
+Prince at K&ouml;niggr&auml;tz," and "The Capitulation at Sedan."</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps no collection, among many more which might be mentioned,
+better illustrates the practical working of the German mind than the
+Royal Post Museum in the Leipziger Strasse. Here is shown everything
+of interest connected with the transmission of intelligence, and
+poetry as well as prose has entered into the heart of this Government
+exhibit. On the walls of the first saloon entered by the visitor are
+copies in stone of Assyrian bas-reliefs showing a warrior with chariot
+and arrows. This suggests to us a scene in the lives of David and
+Jonathan; but communication by means of arrows is probably much older
+than the time of David. Earlier than even the Assyrian stone must have
+been the model for the Egyptian wicker and wooden post-chariot. In
+this room, under a glass case, is an exquisite marble statuette, found
+at Tanagra, of a Grecian girl seated, and writing on a tablet; and not
+far away is a Roman warrior, carrying his message. Entering the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>next
+hall, we pass a beautiful bronze statue of Philip, the Grecian
+soldier, bearing a laurel spray, stretching his athletic limbs in
+breathless strides as he goes toward the capital to announce the
+battle of Marathon, and to fall dead on his entrance to the city, with
+the single word "Victory!" on his lips. Here on the walls are four
+emblematic pictures: "The Land-Post," representing a knight with a
+sealed missive in his hand, standing beside and curbing his fiery
+steeds; "The Sea-Post," showing a mail-carrier on the back of a
+dolphin in the midst of stormy waves far out at sea; "The Telegraph,"
+with Jove and his lightnings as its central figure: and "The
+<i>Rohrpost</i>,"&mdash;a maiden, blowing into an orifice with "the breath of
+all the winds." This last is emblematic of that postal arrangement in
+Berlin by which letters and postal cards are sent with great speed
+through pneumatic tubes from which the air is exhausted by means of
+pumps, and which makes it possible to receive a written message from a
+distant part of the city within a few minutes after it is written.</p>
+
+<p>Among the ancient representations are models of the boats in which the
+old Norsemen sailed the seas, and of those by which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>our Anglo-Saxon
+ancestors invaded England from Germany. These are strikingly
+contrasted, in their simplicity and clumsiness, with a fully equipped
+model, from four to six feet long, of a modern North German Lloyd
+Atlantic mail steamship, than which no better equipped boat sails the
+main. One goes on, past a Gobelin tapestry representing a mail-scene
+at N&uuml;remberg in the Middle Ages, through long halls and corridors
+where are hundreds of models of post-office buildings of the most
+convenient and approved plans, in all parts of the world. These are of
+every variety of architecture, from the great general post-office in
+London, the handsome Hanover post-office building, those of the
+central and district post-offices in Berlin, Dresden, Cologne,
+Heidelberg, and many others in South Germany, to the modern edifices
+which adorn, and yet seem strangely out of keeping with, the
+picturesque old North German towns. These models are miniature copies
+of the exteriors of post-office buildings, varying in length from one
+and a half to six or eight feet, and of corresponding height. One most
+interesting model shows the interior of a modern post-office, each
+floor showing an exact copy of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>its department of the service, with
+all appliances and conveniences.</p>
+
+<p>In another room are miniature mail-coaches of different kinds. In the
+centre of this apartment stands a life-size figure of a mail-carrier
+in Germany of four hundred years ago. He is a wild-looking official,
+reminding one by his bronzed features and general appearance of some
+trusty Indian scout, as he holds his gun in an attitude of suspicion
+and menace, while a bear-cub opens a capacious mouth at his feet.</p>
+
+<p>Model mail and post-office cars occupy the side of another large room;
+but this exhibit is so vast and varied that the memory refuses to
+retain its classification, and holds side by side Alaskan sledges
+drawn by dogs, Russian post-chaises with reindeer teams, mail-boats on
+Norwegian fiords, carrier-pigeons and balloons, camels and elephants,
+and the model mail-coach of the lightning express of the New York
+Central Railroad. The working appliance used in America for catching
+off a mail-bag without stopping the train attracts much attention.
+There is a complete set of the weights and measures used in British
+post-offices, and two glass cases show the forms of horseshoes best
+adapted to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>speed of horses carrying mails. Tablets, pens, and
+pencils have cases to themselves, as well as parchments, ancient rolls
+and ink-horns, reeds and papyrus. Here are the primitive postal
+arrangements of some of the East Indies; there is the yellow satin
+missive with a scarlet seal which carries the royal mandates of Siam.
+Pictures and models of mail-carrying elephants come next, their gay
+saddle-cloths filled with pockets and parchment rolls. A model of a
+Japanese post-office is finished in all its interior with the
+perfection of detail and delicacy of execution which characterize the
+best Japanese work. A framed engraving of the International Postal
+Congress at Berne in 1874 hangs near one of the Congress at Paris in
+1878. There is a room devoted to the exhibition of postal stamps,
+cards, and envelopes of every kind, and there are several rooms where
+models of the most approved kinds of telegraphic apparatus are shown.
+In a corridor are all varieties of submarine cables, with the ore and
+the Bessemer steel of which they are spun. In one of the rooms a small
+crowd is collected about an operator who speaks through a telephone,
+records the sound of his own voice on strips of foil, which he tears
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>into fragments and distributes to those who eagerly reach for them. In
+the centre of this room there is a tiny circular railway, with a
+coach, but no locomotive, standing on the track. By turning the wheel
+of an electro-magnet the official produces an electric light at the
+extremity of a model burner; then, applying the same power to the
+little railway, propels the coach at a rapid rate by means of the
+invisible agent. One goes forth into the street, past wax figures of
+armed and mounted mail-messengers in the Middle Ages, past the model
+street mail-boxes and carriages which help to make so wonderful the
+Berlin postal arrangements, in a maze at what may here be seen in a
+single half-hour of the history of mail-carrying in all lands and
+ages. The originator of this "Post Museum" is Dr. Stephan, the
+inventor of the postal card and the chief promoter of the
+International Postal Union. His is the "power behind the throne" which
+has made the German postal system a marvel of efficiency, unsurpassed,
+if not unrivalled, in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Less known to travellers than many others far inferior in interest, is
+the Hohenzollern Museum, occupying the Monbijou Palace in the heart of
+Berlin. This palace, of so much <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>interest to the readers of Carlyle's
+"Frederick the Great," has been transformed into a repository for the
+personal belongings and memorials of the kings and queens of Prussia.
+One or more rooms devoted to each sovereign in historical succession
+make up a fascinating picture of the royal customs of the kingdom for
+two hundred years. Our attention was called to this museum by an
+English resident, but its interest far exceeded our expectations. Here
+are the laces, jewels, and often the entire wardrobes of the
+Hohenzollern queens, with their writing desks and tablets,
+jewel-cases, embroidery, work-baskets, mirrors, beds, and other
+furniture; and the kings have each their own apartment likewise,
+tenanted by their "counterfeit presentments" in wax, sitting or
+standing in the very clothes they wore, and surrounded by visible
+mementos of the life they used to live. The glittering eyes and
+mundane expression of Frederick William I., father of Frederick the
+Great, give one a strange feeling, and the chairs and table of his
+"Tobacco College" must have a vivid interest for every reader of
+Carlyle's "Frederick." But when we entered the rooms containing the
+many mementos of the Great Frederick himself, from his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>effigy in the
+cradle and his baby shoes, and threaded all the vicissitudes of that
+strangely fascinating life by the help of its visible surroundings,
+and finally stood before the glass case containing a mask of his dead
+face and hand surrounded by its laurel wreath, the spell of the past
+was at its height. It was a bright sunny afternoon, and the golden
+light came in long slanting lines through windows opening on Monbijou
+gardens, beautiful even in winter, and lay upon the tessellated floors
+of the corridors in patterns of shining glory. The chat and laughter
+of young companions floated from adjoining rooms, and the foot of the
+guard fell softly in the marble halls. But a kind of awe born of that
+wonderful past had taken possession of me. I was alone with the spirit
+of the Great Monarch, and it was more than could be borne. We hurried
+away from the spot, as when children we fled from fancied ghosts. To
+one in search of a genuine sensation, we recommend the reading (with
+judicious skipping) of Carlyle's "Frederick the Great," and a visit,
+alone or with a single companion, to the Hohenzollern Museum.</p>
+
+<p>Upwards of twenty years ago, German trade was falling behind in the
+best markets <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>of the world, because the products of German industry
+were largely poor in quality and deficient in artistic value. With the
+Duke of Ratisbon, President of the Herrenhaus, as chairman of a
+committee appointed to consider the subject, a few leading minds
+combined in a movement which issued in the establishment of the
+Industrial Art Museum. The Crown Prince and the Crown Princess were
+much interested in the subject, and gave the plan their hearty
+support. Less than ten years since, the fine new building in Zimmer
+Strasse near K&ouml;niggr&auml;tzer was opened on the birthday of the Crown
+Princess, to receive the vast treasures accumulated, by gift, loan,
+and purchase, for the permanent exhibition. A cursory visit, though
+most interesting, is sometimes bewildering from the extent and variety
+of the collection. The centre of the edifice consists of a large
+court, roofed with glass and surrounded by two galleries. This is the
+place reserved for loan exhibitions, and several of importance have
+already been held here. One of the earlier was of some of the
+treasures of the South Kensington Museum, loaned by Queen Victoria.
+Opening upon these arcades are numerous halls on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span>lower floor,
+devoted to the permanent exhibition. The classification of the objects
+exhibited, if not loose, is very general, seeming to us inferior to
+the method which makes the South Kensington a delight, whether one has
+hours or months in which to visit it. On the ground floor of this
+Berlin Museum are "objects in the making of which fire is not used."
+This includes domestic and ecclesiastical furniture of different
+countries and historical periods, musical instruments, tapestries,
+carvings in ivory and wood, and many other objects widely separated in
+thought. A fine exhibit is made of articles in amber wrought by
+workmen of rich old Dantzic, for which Baltic Germany furnishes the
+raw material. The ancient Italian carved bridal-chests brought vividly
+to mind our childhood's favorite story of Ginevra, by chance
+imprisoned in such a chest on the day which was to have witnessed her
+marriage.</p>
+
+<p>The upper floor, with an arrangement similar to that of the lower,
+shows "objects in the manufacture of which fire is necessary." The
+very extensive collection of pottery and porcelain was surpassed, in
+our observation, only by that at S&egrave;vres; and there are many rare and
+valuable specimens of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>work in glass and metals. The ancient municipal
+silver service of the city of L&uuml;neberg, bought at a cost of $165,000,
+deserves the attention it attracts; and the work of German medi&aelig;val
+goldsmiths&mdash;particularly of the famous Augsburg artisans&mdash;is a
+revelation of the possibilities of human handiwork. Stained glass, of
+much historic and artistic value, fills the windows of the entire
+building. The specimens of textile fabrics, in completeness and
+extent, are matchless, and are so arranged as to afford the utmost
+facility to students of the history of this important subject, as well
+as great pleasure to the favored visitor who has the opportunity to
+inspect them.</p>
+
+<p>This "K&uuml;nstgewerbe Museum" is open to the public without charge on
+three days of the week, and for a small fee on the remaining days;
+while its valuable industrial library may be freely consulted on four
+week-day evenings. Its influence is already strongly felt along the
+lines of trade and industry throughout the Empire.</p>
+
+<p>The great Ethnographical Museum adjoining, on the corner of
+K&ouml;niggr&auml;tzer Strasse, has the kind and variety of objects usually
+found in such exhibitions, including those <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>connected with several
+races of American Indians. The other departments were, to us, eclipsed
+in interest by the Schliemann exhibition of Trojan remains on the
+ground floor. Here we found, on the walls, framed pencil or India ink
+sketches of the localities where the earlier excavations were made,
+plans of the work, sections of the unearthed portions, and the
+precious old Trojan antiquities themselves, deposited here for
+inspection and safe keeping.</p>
+
+<p>The M&auml;rkische Museum, in the Fisch Markt, a centre of Old Berlin,
+illustrates the history and the prehistoric times of the Mark of
+Brandenburg, including an interesting department of curiosities from
+the lake-dwellings and tumuli. There are also ancient coins and other
+objects picked up at different times within the province. One of the
+later treasures of this unique museum is the box from which the monk
+Tetzel sold the indulgences which fanned into a flame the rising fires
+of the Reformation.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep124.jpg" width="15%" alt="decoration for the end of page 124." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep125.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 125." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>VI.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE GERMAN REICHSTAG AND THE PRUSSIAN PARLIAMENT.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />he Reichstag, or Imperial Diet of the German Empire, was, during our
+stay in Berlin, a focus for the eyes of all Europe and America. The
+Government, professedly actuated by a fear of war, asked for an
+appropriation, largely to increase the army annually for a term of
+seven years. This House of Deputies, elected by the people and
+numbering nearly four hundred members, contained a considerable
+element of opposition to the Government. The debate over the Army Bill
+brought Chancellor Bismarck up from his distant country-seat, where he
+had spent several <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>previous months, to a participation in the contest
+which was anticipated on both sides with eagerness and solicitude.</p>
+
+<p>The building on Leipziger Strasse, as severe in inner details as in
+the sombre gray of its outer walls, was hastily constructed in 1871
+for the accommodation of the newly consolidated German Empire, and has
+long been inadequate to the need. A single gallery surrounds three
+sides of the hall, and is occupied on the right by boxes for the
+Imperial household, the diplomatic corps, and high officials. The left
+is appropriated to English and American visitors; and the centre,
+immediately above the desk of the presiding officer and the elevated
+seats of the Chancellor and members of the Bundesrath, is alone left
+for the general public. When the new building near the Thiergarten
+shall be occupied, it is hoped that greatly improved acoustics and
+ventilation may be secured, and the accommodations for visitors such
+that it may not be said that there are Germans in Berlin who have for
+years desired visitors' tickets of admission without having been able
+to secure them.</p>
+
+<p>By a singular good fortune, our tickets gave us seats for this debate
+in full view of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>the leaders of each of the great parties. On the
+first day the Prime Minister made his great speech, and on the second
+day thereafter, Richter, the leader of the progressive party, took up
+the speech point by point, and with bold and vigorous oratory for two
+hours held the attention of all to his own opposing views. A man of
+robust physique, still in the prime of life, Richter's dark complexion
+and facial expression give the impression of "staying qualities"
+formidable as lasting. The session opened at eleven o'clock
+<span class="fakesc">A.M.</span>, and the veteran General and Field-Marshal Von Moltke
+was the first speaker. His rising was the signal for a general hush,
+and for about a quarter of an hour all listened in breathless silence.
+Half the width of the hall from the observer, his more than eighty
+years seemed to sit lightly on "the great taciturnist;" and his fair
+complexion, fine brow, thin face, and singular firmness of mouth have
+the fascination of genius. Later, during the long and sometimes
+denunciatory speech of Richter, he seemed wearied. Rising from his
+seat in the front rank of the Conservatives on the extreme right, he
+moved to the rear, stood in the aisle, took a vacant seat,&mdash;resting by
+various changes for fifteen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>or twenty minutes; but when, between one
+and two o'clock, the time for Bismarck's entrance approached, he
+returned to his own seat and thenceforth listened attentively. Like
+the aged Emperor, Von Moltke's age was most apparent in his movements.
+Sitting or standing, he was the graceful, well-bred gentleman, as well
+as the dignified chief of the German army. In walking, his movement is
+slow, and lacking vigor to a marked degree. The offer of the
+Opposition to vote for the bill with a term of one, two, or even three
+years, while declaring that they could not vote for seven, was
+haughtily received by the Prime Minister, who had already given his
+reasons, supported by the Emperor, by Von Moltke, and other eminent
+military authority, for adhering to the longer term. "I will not abate
+a hair's breadth of the septenate," said he. "If you do not vote it, I
+prefer to deal with another Reichstag." This on the second day of the
+debate. On the third day Bismarck replied to some of the positions of
+the Opposition, in a speech of three quarters of an hour, immediately
+following his opponent, Richter. The latter, and the members on the
+left included in the three great divisions of the Liberal party,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>retired from the hall at the conclusion of Richter's two hours'
+speech; but the centre, or Catholic party, among whom were several
+priests and a number of very keen and watchful physiognomies, remained
+in their seats, as well as the Conservatives of both grades. Soon
+Richter was back, though without his supporters. Fumbling a moment at
+his desk for pencil and paper, he stepped forward in the aisle, so as
+not to lose the sentences of Bismarck (occasionally somewhat
+indistinct), and refusing to be diverted for more than an instant by
+the communications of friends and officials. Cries of <i>Ja wohl! Ja
+wohl!</i> and <i>Bravo!</i> were heard from the right during the speech of
+Bismarck, with now and again a general ripple of laughter at some
+pleasantry accessible to the German mind; but these were much outdone
+in heartiness by the applause which frequently interrupted Richter
+when speaking. There is a massiveness about this scene which rises up
+in memory with a vividness greater, if possible, than the reality made
+on our excited and wearied endurance during the hours we spent there.
+Later, Windhorst, the leader of the Roman Catholic party, made a
+memorable speech. The dozen great electric lights depending <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>from the
+ceiling were extinguished when the early afternoon sun faintly
+struggled with the clouds for entrance through the skylight which
+forms the entire roof of the room, except those left burning near the
+seats of Bismarck and Von Moltke, which brought these foremost figures
+into strong relief. Prince William&mdash;now Emperor&mdash;and the gentlemen of
+his party were in gay uniforms in the Imperial box, and the diplomatic
+box was lighted mainly by the diamonds of the ladies who sat there;
+while the crowded ranks of the other galleries were in dim twilight.
+It was a picture to remain in history. The bill was lost. In less than
+twenty-four hours after we left the Reichstag, Bismarck had read his
+summary dissolution of the Diet, and before another sunset the hall
+was closed and silent. The Iron Chancellor had made his appeal to the
+country. The war-cloud was heavy over Europe, and great was the
+excitement in Berlin. Under fear of a bolt which might strike at any
+moment, the elections for a new Chamber were held, and Bismarck had
+his will.</p>
+
+<p>The Reichstag is the representative body of the whole German Empire,
+with its four kingdoms, six grand duchies, and sixteen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>lesser
+principalities and powers united under one emperor. Prussia is a
+kingdom which forms but one, though the most important, of these
+constituent parts. The Reichstag is a kind of Upper and Lower House in
+one; the Bundesrath or Federal Council, with somewhat arbitrary
+powers, has its private Council-room; but the Chancellor of the Empire
+is its presiding officer, and, with the members of this Council,
+occupies the elevated platform at the right of the President of the
+Reichstag. The chief function of the latter as a legal Chamber of
+Deputies is to check the power of the Bundesrath. It can thus reject
+bills and refuse appropriations, but has no power to bring about a
+change of administration.</p>
+
+<p>The Prussian Diet is composed of two separate houses. The building of
+the Lower House&mdash;the Abgeordnetenhaus&mdash;is near the eastern extremity
+of the Leipziger Strasse, and the House of Lords&mdash;Herrenhaus&mdash;is
+adjacent to the Reichstag-Gebaude. The Prussian Lower House is
+somewhat larger in numbers than the Reichstag, and is of course an
+elective body. It contained a number of eminent men,&mdash;as Herr
+Windhorst, also the leader of the Catholic party in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>the Reichstag,
+and Professor Virchow. On the day of our visit no business of special
+importance was before the assembly, and visitors' tickets were
+obtained with an ease in pleasing contrast to the most difficult feat
+of obtaining entrance to the Reichstag on a great occasion.</p>
+
+<p>The House of Lords is reputed a dull place, and is seldom visited. In
+a dwelling formerly occupying this site (No. 3 Leipziger Strasse), and
+of which some memorials remain, Felix Mendelssohn spent, with his
+parents and sister Fanny, several years of his wonderful youth; and
+the "Gartenhaus" of this estate witnessed the memorable private
+performance of the work which first revealed his greatness to the
+world,&mdash;the "Overture to the Midsummer Night's Dream."</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep132.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 132." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep133.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 133." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>VII.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>PROMINENT PERSONAGES.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/i.jpg" alt="I" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" /> love my Emperor," said "our little Fr&auml;ulein," laying her hand on
+her heart, one day when we were talking of him.</p>
+
+<p>It was on our first day in Germany that we, returning from church a
+little after noon, were kindly greeted by an American lady who saw
+that we were strangers. "The Emperor lives on this street," she said;
+"and if we hasten, we may see him when he comes to the window to
+review his Guards." Soon we were before the palace on Unter den
+Linden, a substantial-looking building facing the north, with an
+eastern exposure. The Imperial standard was floating over the palace,
+denoting the presence of his Majesty. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>The room on the ground floor,
+northeast corner, of the palace is the one used by Emperor William I.
+as his study; and one back of this was his bedroom, containing the
+simple iron cot which was the companion of his soldier days, and which
+remained the couch of his choice to the end of life. At "the historic
+window" we often saw him. Every day at noon, and sometimes long
+before, the crowd began to gather in the street opposite this window,
+for a sight of his Majesty when he came for a moment to review his
+Guards at a quarter to one. It was touching to see the devotion of the
+people, standing patiently in all weathers; mothers and fathers
+holding up their children that they might catch a sight of the
+idolized Kaiser. Rarely did he disappoint them. As the military music
+of the guard drew near, and the tramp of the soldiers fell on the
+pavement before the palace, the aged man would appear at the window in
+full uniform of dark blue with scarlet trimmings and silver
+epaulettes, returning the salutations of the guard, and bowing and
+waving his white-gloved hand to the people, then retiring within the
+shadow of the lace curtains. Sometimes the cheering broke forth anew
+as he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>was lost to sight, and the welkin was made to ring with the
+Kaiser-song, or some hymn of Fatherland, until he indulgently appeared
+again, bowing his bald head, his kindly face lighted up with a smile.
+In full-front view he did not look like a man in his ninetieth year.
+Many a man of sixty-five or seventy looks older. When he turned, the
+side view revealed that his form was not erect; but only when he
+walked with a slow movement could one realize that this soldier of
+perfect drill&mdash;this courtly gentleman&mdash;was one who had seen almost a
+century of life. His earliest memories were of privation and hardship.
+In his young boyhood the First Napoleon held Berlin in his grasp, and
+the family of the King, Frederick William III., fled to K&ouml;nigsberg.
+The beautiful and noble Queen Louise and her two little boys,
+afterwards Frederick William IV. and William I., wandered at one time
+in the forests, and made their food of wild berries. They amused
+themselves by making wreaths of <i>cornblumen</i>,&mdash;blue flowers answering
+closely to our "bachelors' buttons,"&mdash;which grow wild everywhere in
+Germany. Thenceforward the <i>cornblumen</i> were dear to the young
+princes, and they were "the Emperor's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>flowers" to the end of his
+Imperial life. So devoted was he to the memory of his mother, that
+when in his later years he saw a young girl whose striking beauty of
+face and form reminded him of Queen Louise, he persuaded her to allow
+her portrait to be taken, that it might remind him of the mother whom
+he remembered in her youth. This beautiful portrait is bought, by many
+Germans even, as that of Queen Louise, and may be known by a star over
+the forehead. The finest actual portrait of this Queen which we saw
+was, at the time of our visit, in the Old Schloss at Berlin, and
+showed a mature and lovely woman, every inch a queen. The exquisite
+reposing statue, by Rauch, in the Mausoleum at Charlottenburg, over
+her grave, is well known by copies.</p>
+
+<p>The life led by the aged Emperor was simple and methodical to the
+last. Rising at half-past seven, he breakfasted, looked over his
+letters and papers, and was ready by nine or half-past nine to begin
+his reception of officials or other callers, which lasted till after
+midday. After lunch, he usually drove for an hour or so in the
+afternoon, often accompanied by a single aid, bowing right and left to
+the populace, who thronged for a look and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>a smile. His plain military
+cloak enveloped him in cold or rainy weather, and his was often one of
+the plainest equipages on the brilliant street. "I do not think," said
+General Grant, after having visited the Emperor, "that I ever saw a
+more perfect type of a soldier and a man. His Majesty went off into
+military affairs. I was anxious to change the subject, as I had no
+interest in the technical matters of war. But the Emperor held me to
+the one theme, and we spoke of nothing else. I fancied Bismarck
+sympathized with me, and would have gladly gone off on other subjects,
+but it was of no use. The manner of Bismarck toward the Emperor was
+beautiful,&mdash;absolute devotion and respect. This was my one long talk
+with the Emperor. I should call him the embodiment of courage, candor,
+dignity, and simplicity; a strikingly handsome man."</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes the Kaiser would hold up to the palace window his eldest
+great-grandson, now Crown Prince, then a beautiful child of four or
+five years; and the little fellow would go through his military salute
+of the passing guard with great gravity and propriety, while the
+huzzas of the crowd burst forth with renewed zeal. This child was the
+favorite of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>the aged Emperor, and sometimes took liberties with his
+great-grandsire which would hardly have been tolerated from any one
+else. If it was touching to see the devotion of the people to their
+Emperor, it was no less so to see how he trusted himself with them. He
+could remember when, with the revolutionary spirit of 1848, the mob in
+the streets of Berlin had so insulted him, a prince, that he had fled
+for a time from his country. But that he had forgiven and they had
+forgotten long ago. The times had "changed all that." Now he lived
+daily in sight of the people, with only a pane of glass for a shield.
+He loved his people, and they worshipped him with no temporary
+oblations. One of the last occasions in which we saw him in public was
+that of the spring man&oelig;uvres in the last May-time of his long life.</p>
+
+<p>Some distance south of the Halle gate, the large and finely situated
+"Tempelhofer Feld" extends to the suburban village of Tempelhof, which
+was once the property of the Knights of Malta, and which still bears
+their cross and inscription on its church bells. The intervening
+ground has been devoted to the annual parades of the Berlin garrison
+for more than a hundred years. It has ample <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>room for evolutions of
+infantry, artillery, and cavalry, but a comparatively small space is
+devoted to the accommodation of spectators. Only about three hundred
+carriages can be admitted, and these are distributed among royal
+personages, officials, and a limited number of distinguished or
+fortunate visitors. Our application for a carriage place was duly
+filed with the chief of the Berlin police a month or six weeks in
+advance of the parade, but, after long waiting, word came that there
+was no room. By the courtesy and special thoughtfulness of Secretary
+Crosby, of the United States Legation, a carriage ticket was placed at
+our disposal, after all hope of obtaining the coveted privilege had
+been abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>The German Emperor can place, if need be, nearly three million trained
+soldiers in the field. All able-bodied Germans are liable to service,
+with few exceptions, from the age of twenty to that of thirty-two, and
+can in exceptional circumstances be called out up to the age of
+forty-two. But the German youth spends only the first three years, of
+his twelve of liability, with the colors, the remaining nine being
+spent in different branches of the reserve forces. The effective force
+in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>time of peace is about half a million, which is distributed
+through the Empire in seventeen army corps, of which the Third has its
+headquarters at Berlin. The ordinary strength of an army corps is
+about thirty thousand, including infantry, cavalry, and artillery; but
+the garrison of Berlin and various extra and unattached troops bring
+the number up to fifty thousand or more, stationed mostly in Berlin
+and Potsdam. These have their spring man&oelig;uvres at Berlin; and the
+special parade, for which every day for two months beforehand seemed
+parade-day in the streets of Berlin, was that for which we were so
+fortunate as to receive tickets. Nearly every day for a week previous,
+his Majesty was to be seen, in his low two-horse carriage, passing
+through the Unter den Linden and south through Friedrich Strasse, to
+the parade-ground. On this grand and final parade-day the three
+hundred carriages of the privileged spectators were in good time on
+the ground assigned them, prepared to welcome the Emperor and the
+Imperial party as loyally as the soldiers themselves. A deafening
+hurrah burst from the throats of all, as his Majesty appeared in a
+carriage and drove to his post of observation. Many of his princely
+retinue, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>both ladies and gentlemen, were on horseback; and it was
+formerly his custom to review the troops, mounted on his black
+war-horse. In spite of a piercing wind which swept over the wide
+Brandenburg plains, we hugged our warm wraps, and stood in our
+carriages, like all the rest, in eager watchfulness and admiration, as
+the evolutions of the most perfectly drilled troops in the world went
+forward. The infantry marched and countermarched; plumes of all colors
+waved in the sunlight and kept time to the music; uniforms and men
+seemed but part of one grand incomprehensible automatic movement;
+battle-flags scarred with the history of all the wars fluttered their
+tattered shreds in the wind, waking memories of irrepressible pathos
+and joy; the artillery rumbled and thundered; the evolutions of the
+cavalry were like systematic whirlwinds; and the scarlet Zouaves, the
+blue Dragoons, the white-uniformed and gilt-helmeted Cuirassiers, and
+the dark Uhlands with lances ten feet long poised in air above their
+prancing horses, commingled the "pomp and circumstance of war" without
+its pain. Now the infantry come on at double quick, in the step with
+which they entered Paris; now the artillery is lumbered across a vast
+stretch of the field with a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>rapidity and precision which almost take
+away one's breath; and anon the cavalry seem to burst in orderly
+confusion upon the scene, flying in competition, across, around,
+athwart, until the cheers and huzzas burst forth anew with, "Hail to
+the Kaiser!" "Long live the Fatherland!" It was with joy that the
+soldiers received the commendations of their Imperial chieftain on
+that field-day, and it was to us a fitting place and moment of
+farewell to the great military Emperor.</p>
+
+<p>"King, the Saxon Konnig," says Carlyle,&mdash;"the man who <span class="fakesc">CAN</span>."
+And Emperor William I. was the man who <i>could</i>.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>"Fritz, dear Fritz," were the last words of the aged Emperor. "Unser
+Fritz" was the well-beloved elder brother of the German people. If any
+doubt as to the real feeling among the South-Germans toward the
+Imperial house had existed in our minds, it was removed as we
+journeyed through Saxony, Bavaria, W&uuml;rtemberg, Darmstadt, Thuringia.
+Everywhere, in humble homes, in shops, hotels, and market-places, were
+the likenesses of the handsome Kaiser and the open, sincere, manly
+countenance of the Crown Prince to be seen. In Berlin the Crown Prince
+occupied <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>the palace directly east of that of the Kaiser, separated
+from it only by the Operahaus Platz. We had heard him called "the
+handsomest man in Europe." Our study of his kindly face from
+photographs had revealed manliness enough, but nothing more to justify
+this epithet. But as one came to be familiar with his look, his
+figure, his bearing, there was full assent to his being called, in
+appearance, "the finest gentleman in Europe." The titles and tokens of
+honor that had been showered upon him, and which he wore so
+gracefully, were his least claims to distinction. He was as great in
+true nobility of soul as he was exalted in station, as symmetrical in
+character as he was regal in bearing. When he mated with the Princess
+Royal of England, he was not even Crown Prince of Prussia, and some of
+the English papers asserted that the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria
+had married beneath her. But this opinion was easily dissipated, as
+the years brought, with increasing honors, development of manly
+virtues and graces. A hero in the wars in which his country had
+engaged before he reached middle life, and with all the courage of his
+Hohenzollern blood, he yet delighted in peace, and was a most humane
+and liberal statesman. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>That thirst for liberty which is quenchless in
+the human breast, and which has had as yet small satisfaction in
+Teutonic lands, seemed to find sympathy in this enlightened Prince. At
+the age of thirty he became the heir apparent to the Prussian Crown,
+when the new king, his father, had reached the age of sixty-four. When
+he was forty, and his father was proclaimed Emperor of Germany at the
+age of seventy-four, Frederick became heir to the Imperial throne. A
+most careful and liberal education, grafted on a genial and wise
+character, had fitted him to watch the course of events in which,
+according to the course of nature, he might be expected so soon to
+take chief part. But the years which made his sire venerable passed,
+and still he had no opportunity to shape public affairs. Absolutism
+feared his influence and that of his liberal and strong-minded English
+wife. The prime of life was his; but his best years were behind and
+not before him as at the age of fifty-five he filially and devotedly
+filled his own place, the loved and loving son of his Imperial father,
+whose trusted representative he was on all courtly occasions, the
+model husband and father, the accomplished and interested patron of
+art and letters, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span>polished gentleman, the benevolent and devout
+Christian. During his last winter of health (1886-1887) he was often
+to be seen among the people. Accompanied by the Crown Princess and
+their three unmarried daughters, he walked out and in, along the Unter
+den Linden, an interested participator, like any other father of a
+family, in the Christmas shopping. On one of the culminating days of
+the great Reichstag debate, it was Prince William who was seen in the
+Imperial box in the Parliament House, while "Unser Fritz" with wife
+and daughters were skaters among the crowds on the ice-ponds of the
+Thiergarten. This by no means indicated indifference to great
+questions of public concern. None knew better the issue, the times,
+and the need. But, standing all his mature life with his foot on the
+threshold of a throne, with talents and training fitting him to do
+honor to his royal line, to his Fatherland, and to the brotherhood of
+kings in all lands and ages, he yet knew that while the father
+reigned, it was not for the son to reign. He was to bide his time.
+Alas! an inscrutable Providence made that time to be crowned only with
+the halo of a dawning immortality, a time in which strength and peace
+were to be radiated from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>one anointed by the chrism of pain, and
+whose diadem was to shine, not among the treasures of earth, but as
+the stars for ever and ever. When the messenger of the fallen Napoleon
+III. had brought his unexpected surrender after Sedan, and the flush
+of startling victory had mantled even the cheek of the pale and
+reticent Von Moltke, had shaken the leonine composure of Bismarck, and
+affected the heroic William I. almost to tears, the courtly Frederick
+forgot himself and the victory of the cause he had helped to win, in
+sympathy for the vanquished foe. The embarrassed general who brought
+the surrender of the French had Frederick's instant devotion, and
+those first moments of deep humiliation were soothed by the
+conversation of the Crown Prince and by kind attentions which all
+others forgot to render. With a truth and devotion to his country
+which could never be doubted or questioned, he yet had a heart "so
+much at leisure from itself" that in the supremest moments of life he
+sympathized with friend and foe, as only regal souls can do.</p>
+
+<p>I saw this foremost prince of Europe in the nineteenth century always
+and increasingly to admire him, whether in the largest or the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>smallest relations of life; whether as royal host entertaining the
+sovereigns of Europe and their representatives when that magnificent
+assemblage came to greet the ninetieth birthday of his father; dashing
+on horseback through the streets of the capital and the riding-paths
+of the park; saluting with stately grace his Imperial sire, as he
+alone entered the place where the Emperor sat; handing the Crown
+Princess to her seat, or going down on his knees to find her Imperial
+Highness's misplaced footstool in her pew at church; accompanying his
+daughters to places of public amusement and looking upon them with
+manly tenderness; or standing with military helmet before his face in
+silent prayer, as he entered the house of God to worship before the
+King of kings.</p>
+
+<p>My last sight of his Imperial Highness was on one of the latest
+occasions of his public appearance in Berlin while in health, in
+connection with one of those opportunities of hearing grand music in
+which this city excels the rest of the world. It was that most
+devotional music ever written,&mdash;Bach's Passion Music, rendered once a
+year, on the evening of Good Friday, in the Sing Akademie of Berlin.
+There was a trained chorus of about four <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>hundred voices, with the
+best orchestra in the city, besides solo singers of repute,&mdash;one, a
+charming alto from Cologne. The simple and touching narrative of the
+Betrayal and the Crucifixion was sung as it is written in the
+twenty-sixth and twenty-seventh chapters of Matthew, certain phrases
+and sentences repeated and adapted to the music, but none of it
+essentially changed in form. One of the bass soloists took, with the
+tenor, the soprano and the alto alternating, most of the narrative;
+and another bass solo took the words of Jesus, whenever these occur in
+the sad story. The <i>arias</i> and <i>recitatives</i> were finely given, but no
+effect was comparable to that of the grand chorus. The single word
+"Barabbas!" sung, or rather shouted, by these hundreds of voices in
+perfect time and tune, was overwhelming. Another passage of most
+thrilling effect was that in which every instrument and every voice
+joined in the deafening but harmonious description of the multitude
+who went out with swords and staves in the midnight, to take the
+unoffending Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane. And one could almost
+hear in the music the sobbing of Peter when, after his denial of the
+Lord, "he went out and wept bitterly." Another most touching passage
+was that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>representing the love of the woman who anointed the feet of
+Jesus. When the shout of the multitude arose in the words "Crucify
+Him!" the awfulness was intense. There were times when the audience
+scarcely seemed to breathe freely, so strong was the spell, so vivid
+the reality of this saddest and most touching of narratives, as
+interpreted by this wonderful music. Never but once have I heard the
+perfection of choral music. It was one of the grand and solemn ancient
+hymn-tunes which are introduced at certain stages of this composition.
+I closed my eyes to the brilliance of the scene before me, that the
+ear might be the sole avenue of impression. Not the slightest jar or
+dissonance revealed any difference in the four hundred voices speaking
+as one; there seemed but one great soul pouring forth the vast volume
+of the harmony. The mighty cadences rose and fell, breaking in waves
+of sound against walls and roof, and must have floated far out into
+the night, now soaring in triumph, now sweet and soft and low as the
+tones of an Eolian harp; but the voice of hundreds was only as the
+voice of one. Three hours and more, with one brief intermission, we
+listened, and lived as it were those last sad hours of the Life so
+sacred and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>so majestic, so unutterably full of love. The end came,
+when the stone was rolled against the sealed door of the sepulchre,
+and the Roman watch was set. No hint of a resurrection was in the
+music; but the singers sang, in closing, again and again, in varying
+strains, "Good-night, good-night, dear Jesus!"</p>
+
+<p>The audience, moved as it seemed by a common impulse, joined in that
+last song. The Crown Prince, with the Crown Princess and their
+daughters, and the Princess Christian, then on a visit to Berlin, were
+in the royal box in the concert-room. With his family and his royal
+visitors, Frederick, his voice already in the penumbra of a dim,
+unknown, unforeseen, but fateful shadow, took up the strain. "He sang
+it through," said a friend to me, who knew him well, "and I could see
+that he was deeply touched." There we left the story, as almost
+nineteen hundred years ago it was left, on that Friday evening in
+Jerusalem, with the full light of the Paschal moon falling on the
+closed and silent tomb, in the garden of Joseph of Arimathea.</p>
+
+<p>Two days later, on the evening of Easter Sunday, the Crown Prince
+united in the service of the English Church, with his family, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span>in
+celebrating the joyous anniversary of a sure resurrection, and during
+the same week left Berlin in quest of rest and health. He came not
+back until, before another Good Friday, "Unser Fritz" was Emperor of
+Germany, and already walking through the Valley of that Shadow in
+which he sorrowfully sung of his "dear Jesus," one short year before.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>Various estimates have been made of the talents and character of the
+third of the three German Emperors of the year 1888, but the record
+and the proof of all prophecies concerning William II. have yet to be
+made. As Prince William we saw him with best opportunity in the
+Imperial box at the Reichstag, where for three hours he listened
+intently to the speeches of Bismarck, Von Moltke, and others. A fair
+young man, in the heavily ornamented light blue uniform of his
+regiment, to a casual observer his countenance bore neither the marks
+of dissipation nor the signs of intellectual power and force of
+character. But he was only in the late twenties, and "there is time
+yet." He is the idol of the army, and the devoted friend of Bismarck.
+Not one of all the great concourse of dignitaries at the celebration
+of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>ninetieth birthday of William I. received such shouts of
+adulation from the populace as those which rent the air when the State
+carriage passed which bore the Prince and Princess William and their
+three little sons. Of the Princess William, now Empress Augusta
+Victoria, there was but one opinion. "None will ever know the blessing
+which the Princess William has been to our family," once said her
+father-in-law, the Crown Prince Frederick. From the throne to the hut,
+blessings followed her, a Christian lady, in faithfulness as wife,
+mother, friend, and princess, worthy of her exalted place. At a
+lawn-party given for the benefit of the Young Men's Christian
+Association, in the magnificent old park of the War Department in the
+heart of Berlin, Prince and Princess William were present. The
+Princess walked up and down, chatting now with one lady, now with
+another, in attire so simple that the plainest there could feel no
+unpleasant contrast, and in manner so beautiful and genial that we
+could forget the princess in admiration of the unassuming lady.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>Of the Empress Frederick much has been said, and much invented, since
+the days when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>she left England, a bride of seventeen, to make her
+home in a foreign land.</p>
+
+<p>"Is the Crown Princess popular?" I said to a young German lady, in the
+early days of our residence in Berlin.</p>
+
+<p>"Not very."</p>
+
+<p>"She is strong-minded, is she not?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, too strong," replied the lady.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the Crown Princess Victoria did not sufficiently disguise the
+broad difference between her birthright as the heir of the thought and
+feeling of her distinguished father, "Prince Albert the Good," and the
+low plane still habitual to many German women. She has always been an
+Englishwoman; and this was the chief charge I ever heard against her,
+in my endeavor to reach the real statement of the case. And yet all
+agree that she has been devoted to the best interests of the German
+people. Everywhere in humane, benevolent, and educational work, we
+found the impress of her guiding hand. A German lady, of rare ability,
+sweetness, and culture, was one day giving me the pathetic story of
+her hopes and efforts for the elevation and education of her
+country-women. In the course of the conversation she was led to quote
+a remark made to her <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>by the Crown Princess: "You must <i>form the
+character</i> of the German women, before you can do much to elevate
+them." Is not this in keeping with the profound practical wisdom
+which, notwithstanding the puerilities and small femininities which
+abound in some of the published writings of England's royal family,
+makes their pages still worth the reading, and lets us into the secret
+of the true womanliness which, despite all blemishes and foibles,
+Victoria, Empress Queen of England, has instilled into the mind of her
+daughter Victoria, Empress Dowager of Germany. There is hope for
+womankind, when "the fierce light which beats upon a throne" shows
+naught to mar the purity of the home-life which has adorned the
+palaces and the courts of Germany and of England, so far as these have
+been under the influence of the two Victorias.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>"When you say 'Germany,'" said our "little Fr&auml;ulein" to us one day,
+"nobody is afraid; when you say 'Bismarck,' everybody trembles."
+Reports about the ill health of the Iron Chancellor were, two or three
+years ago, possibly exaggerated, but doubtless they had some
+foundation in fact. Previous to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>great debate on the Army Bill, it
+had been said that his physical health was a mere wreck. No sign of
+this appeared, however, when we saw the great Diplomatist in his seat
+in the Reichstag on that memorable occasion. His speech, though
+occasional cadences lapsed into indistinctness in that hall of poor
+acoustic properties, was in the main easily heard in all parts of the
+house. The yellow military collar of his dark blue coat showed his
+pallid face not to advantage, but that fierce look was unsubdued, the
+broad brow loomed above eyes before which one instinctively quails,
+and the pose and movements were those of vigorous health. Every
+afternoon in the ensuing spring, his stout square-shouldered figure
+might be seen, in military uniform and with sword rattling in its
+scabbard, accompanied by a single aid, on horseback, trotting through
+the shaded riding-paths of the Thiergarten,&mdash;for the sake of health,
+doubtless, but evidently with no little pleasure. On his birthday in
+April he received, at his palace in the Wilhelm Strasse, the greetings
+of his regiment, to whom he distributed wine and cake and mementos,
+and also saw many other friends. At his country-seats in Pomerania and
+Lauensburg <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span>most of his time is spent, divided between the cares of
+State and the enjoyments of a rustic life. On the occasion referred to
+in the Parliament, speaking of the Army Bill which the Opposition
+professed a willingness to grant for three years but not for seven, he
+said, "Three years hence, I may hope to be here; in seven, I shall be
+above all this misery." The three years have not yet passed. For the
+glory of Germany, many will hope that twice seven may find the name of
+Bismarck still inspiring with dread the enemies of his country.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>General Von Moltke, the Grant of Germany, might often be seen, by
+those who knew when and where to look for him, in plain dress, walking
+along Unter den Linden, or through the city edge of the Thiergarten,
+near the building of the General Staff, of which he was long the Chief
+and where he lives. This most eminent student of the art of war lives
+a seemingly lonely life since the death of his wife, whose portrait is
+said to be the chief adornment of his private room. He is fond of
+music, and an open piano is his close companion in hours of leisure.
+His plain carriage is seen but seldom by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span>sojourners in Berlin. His
+words need not to be many to be weighty, and his influence was great
+with Emperor William I. and Crown Prince Frederick, whose tutor he had
+been. No scene after the death of Frederick III. was more affecting
+than Von Moltke in tears over his bier. "Never before," said an
+officer who had long known the great general, "have I seen Von Moltke
+so broken up."</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>General Von Waldersee has, by the recent retirement of Von Moltke,
+become Chief of the German Army Staff. The Countess Von Waldersee,
+closely related by her first marriage to the present Empress, is a
+devout Christian lady, an American by birth, and has much influence in
+the German Court. Her most romantic history is known to many since,
+the daughter of a wealthy New York merchant, she went abroad some
+twenty-five years ago, met and married a wealthy Schleswig-Holstein
+baron, by which marriage she became related to more than one royal
+house in Europe; was soon left a youthful widow with great wealth, and
+after a few years, in which she maintained the estate and title of an
+Austrian Princess also bequeathed her by her first husband, married
+the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>German nobleman who is now the head of the German army. She is
+devoted to her home, her husband and children, and to quiet ways of
+doing good. Her dazzling history is her least claim on the interest of
+American women. A noble character, devoted consistently in her high
+station to the service of God and to even the humblest good of her
+fellow-creatures, gives regal lustre to her name, which is a synonym
+for goodness to all who know her.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep158.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 158." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep159.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 159." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>VIII.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE NINETIETH BIRTHDAY OF EMPEROR WILLIAM.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />o those who are fond of pageants and who linger lovingly with past
+ages, such a spectacle as Berlin witnessed on the 22d of March, 1887,
+must have extraordinary attractions. Never in the long life of the
+aged Emperor, whose ninetieth birthday it was, had there been in
+splendor a rival to that day, although his whole career was prolific
+of great scenes and dramatic situations. Eighty-five royal personages
+had accepted the invitation to visit the Emperor on that occasion; and
+they came in person, or sent special envoys, each accompanied by a
+more or less imposing retinue. As guests of the Imperial family, they
+were lodged in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>the various palaces of Berlin and Potsdam, and
+entertained with most thoughtful and sumptuous hospitality. The
+arrivals began on Friday, March 18, and continued through the three
+following days, until the list included the Prince of Wales; the Crown
+Prince of Austria; the Grand Duke and Duchess Vladimir and the Grand
+Duke Michel of Russia; the Crown Prince and Princess of Sweden; the
+King and Queen of Roumania; the King and Queen of Saxony; the Prince
+and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein; the Grand Duke of Hesse
+and his daughter the Princess Irene; the Grand Duchess of Baden; the
+Duke of Saxe-Meiningen; the Hereditary Prince and Princess of
+Mecklenburg-Strelitz; the Duke of Waldeck-Pyrmont, father of the Queen
+of the Netherlands and the Duchess of Albany; the Dowager Grand
+Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin; the Grand Duchess Marie, and a host
+of other royal notables. Costly presents and beautiful flowers had
+been pouring in to the Emperor for days before, from the members of
+his own large family, the various diplomatic corps, from royal
+friends, from learned societies, industrial and philanthropic
+associations, with gifts from China, Turkey, and other <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span>distant
+countries. Many of the presents were arranged in a room in the
+Kaiser's palace, the centre-piece being a portrait of his favorite and
+eldest great-grandson painted by the Crown Princess, and surrounded by
+an elegant display of flowers. This palace was reserved for the calls
+of the distinguished guests, and for a State dinner of a hundred
+covers, given to the visiting royalties on the eve of the birthday by
+the Emperor and Empress. The palace of the Crown Prince was decorated
+about the entrance with palms and other exotics. Here the Crown
+Princess entertained the Prince of Wales and the Princess Christian
+with her family,&mdash;three children of Queen Victoria under the same
+roof. The Grand Duchess of Baden, only daughter of the Emperor, was
+entertained in the Dutch Palace, connected with the Emperor's by a
+corridor. One of those dramatic touches in real life of which Emperor
+William was fond, was the betrothal of the Princess Irene, daughter of
+the Grand Duke of Hesse and the late Princess Alice of England, to her
+cousin Prince Henry, second son of the Crown Prince. It was announced
+by the Emperor on his birthday, standing in the midst of the assembled
+family, with the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>foreign princes grouped in a semicircle around, the
+bride-elect leaning on her father's arm and blushingly receiving the
+congratulations of all present. In the two days preceding his
+birthday, the Emperor received not only his royal visitors, but the
+representatives of Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Servia, Japan, and China.
+The Old Schloss, with its six hundred apartments and reception-rooms,
+was used for the entertainment of royal guests. All the sunny south
+windows facing the Schloss Platz rejoiced for days beforehand in open
+draperies and freshly cleaned plate glass, giving an unwonted look of
+cheer and human habitableness to the majestic and venerable pile
+through which we had walked, a few weeks before, with hushed voices
+and muffled footsteps, gazing on the rich decorations of the public
+rooms, the glittering candelabra, the silver balustrades, the ancient
+plate, the historic paintings and monuments which recall past
+centuries and vanished sovereigns.</p>
+
+<p>But the streets witnessed the most memorable scenes. On the eve of the
+birthday a torchlight procession of more than six thousand students
+represented the Universities of Berlin, Bonn, Heidelberg, Jena,
+K&ouml;nigsberg, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span>Leipzig, Marburg, Munich, Strasburg, and others; the
+Polytechnic Schools of Berlin, Brunswick, Darmstadt, Dresden, Hanover,
+Karlsruhe, and Stuttgardt; the Mining Academies of Berlin, Clausthal,
+and Freiberg; and the Agricultural Schools of Berlin, Eberswalde, and
+Tharandt. Opposite the Imperial Palace stands the University,&mdash;formerly
+the palace of Prince Henry,&mdash;amid old trees and gardens, and with the
+fine colossal statues of the brothers Humboldt in white marble, sitting
+on massive pedestals on either side the main gateway. This was the
+starting-point of the great procession, which was led by two mounted
+students in the garb of Wallenstein's soldiers. Five abreast the
+torch-bearers approached the Emperor's palace, and before his windows
+the Ziethen Hussars wheeled in and out in mystic evolutions. A
+labyrinthine series of movements, marked in the darkness only by the
+flaming torches, was executed in perfect silence; then a simple hymn of
+the Middle Ages was sung with singular effect by these thousands of
+young and manly voices; and from the silence which succeeded, at the
+call of a student standing in the midst and waving his sword above his
+head, there arose a "Three <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>cheers for the Emperor!" while six thousand
+torches swung to and fro, and hundreds of flags and ancient banners
+waved in the evening air. Again there was silence, when one struck the
+National Anthem, which was sung with all heads uncovered, the aged hero
+bowing low at his window in acknowledgment until emotion obliged him to
+withdraw. An incident soon on every tongue was the Emperor's sending
+for a deputation of the students to wait on him, his kind reception of
+and conversation with them, and their elation at the honor,
+notwithstanding their mortification at the contrast of the smoke-soiled
+hands and faces of the torch-bearers with the brilliance of the
+Imperial chamber and the full dress of distinguished visitors. Leaving
+the Emperor's palace, the procession passed through Unter den Linden
+and the Brandenburg Gate to the Thiergarten, where amid a dense and
+surging throng the students threw their burning torches in a heap and
+sang over the expiring flames, "Gaudeamus igitur juvenes dum sumus."
+Deputies from all the Universities, dressed in black velvet coats, high
+boots, and plumed hats, and bearing fine swords, brought up the rear of
+the procession in thirty carriages, with the flags <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>of the old German
+towns and Universities floating above them. I watched this torchlight
+procession from a second-story window-seat on Unter den Linden, and was
+much impressed with the general view, extending from the equestrian
+statue of Frederick the Great before the Emperor's palace, where the
+entire area was filled with reflected light, for nearly a mile to the
+Brandenburg Gate, the various forms of the waving torches on the long
+line seeming the very apotheosis of flame. Many of the young men were
+dressed in the picturesque taste peculiar to German students. Gay
+feathers and unique caps set off to advantage the fine features and
+fair complexions which render some of the students remarkable, though
+the faces are too often disfigured by tell-tale sabre-cuts. After the
+passing of the procession, we drove through a portion of the Potsdamer
+Strasse where the lamps were rather infrequent and the overarching
+branches of the trees shut out the starlight from the handsome street.
+Crowds were hurrying to and fro,&mdash;but to this we had become
+accustomed,&mdash;when suddenly we met a company of mounted students
+returning from the park. In white wigs and high-peaked caps,
+close-fitting white <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>suits embroidered with gold, brilliant sashes, and
+top-boots, they looked, in the dim light, like knights of the Middle
+Ages returning from some quest or tournament; and as they slowly filed
+by, bowing to the greetings of the passers, it was hard to believe for
+the moment that they were other than they seemed.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the birthday dawned bright and beautiful. "Emperor's
+weather this," the Germans fondly said. Before we left our
+breakfast-room the sound of chimes was calling all the children of the
+city to the churches for their share of the celebration. From my
+window I saw at one time three large processions of children passing
+in different directions through diverging streets. All were marshalled
+by teachers from the public schools in strictest order, and with fine
+brass bands playing choral music as they entered the church. Here the
+pastor, after prayer, addressed the children on the blessings of peace
+and the life of the good Emperor, and the children sang, as only
+German children can, the patriotic songs of their country. No more
+touching sight was seen that day than these thousands of boys and
+girls passing into the churches, with the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>sound of solemn music, to
+thank God for the blessings of Fatherland and Emperor,&mdash;a scene which
+caused tears to roll down the cheeks of many a spectator. It will be
+hard to uproot German patriotism while its future fathers and mothers
+are thus trained.</p>
+
+<p>While the children were marching, another procession was also passing,
+composed of the magistrates and city officials, going to the Nicolai
+Kirche (the oldest church in Berlin) for a similar service. Every one
+was astir early, and before ten o'clock a dense crowd filled the
+streets. Horses, omnibuses, and tram-cars were garlanded and decorated
+with flags, and the house fronts were bewildering in color and
+decorations. The double-headed eagle, signifying in the heraldry of
+Germany the Empire of Charlemagne and that of the C&aelig;sars, was
+everywhere intermingled with the German tri-color of red, white, and
+black, with the black and white of Prussia, the green of Saxony, the
+blue of Bavaria, and the orange, purple, and other colors of the
+various principalities and powers of the German Empire; hardly a house
+lacking some brilliant flutter of symbolic colors. Only an American in
+a foreign land can know how welcome was the sight of "the stars and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span>stripes" floating majestically from two or three points on the route;
+though in one case it was flanked by the crescent and star of the
+Turkish Empire, and in another contrasted with the blue dragon on a
+yellow ground which formed the triangular flag of China. Miles of
+business thoroughfares showed glittering and artistic arrangements in
+the shop windows; nearly every one having its picture, bust, or statue
+of the Emperor,&mdash;some with most elaborate and expensive designs.
+Between ten and eleven <span class="fakesc">A.M.</span> the deputations from the
+Universities passed through Unter den Linden, making a daylight parade
+but little inferior to that of the evening before. The dense throng
+immediately closed in after the procession, but by great efforts the
+mounted police cleared a passage for the State carriages to the palace
+of the Emperor. At eleven o'clock a magnificent royal carriage drew up
+at the palace of the Crown Prince, who entered it, accompanied by the
+Crown Princess and two daughters. They proceeded to the presence of
+the Emperor, to offer the first congratulations. Next came a carriage
+whose splendid accompaniments eclipsed all others. Preceded by a
+mounted herald in scarlet and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>silver, on a mettled and caparisoned
+steed, and by other outriders in the same glittering fashion, came the
+carriage, surmounted by silver crowns, drawn by six horses; carriage,
+steeds, coachman, and footmen in shining livery and flowing plumes. At
+the door of the Crown Prince's palace the stout figure of the Prince
+of Wales, in comparatively plain attire, stepped into this coach; a
+lady was handed in after him, and the splendid equipage rolled toward
+the Emperor's palace, amid the cheers of the multitude. From the Old
+Schloss, a succession of royal carriages passed in the same direction,
+all glittering in silver and gold and flowing with plumes, many with
+four or six horses; until fully fifty State carriages had deposited
+their occupants at the palace of the Kaiser, and awaited, in the fine
+open spaces around the famous equestrian statue of Frederick the
+Great, the return of royalty from its congratulations to the venerable
+object of all this attention. Many of the royal visitors were known by
+sight to the crowd, as Berlin sees much of royalty; but many were not.
+The cheering was not enthusiastic, except in special cases. "Who is
+that?" said one near me, as a splendid carriage passed. "I do not
+know," replied <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>another man; "it is only one of those kings." But when
+the Crown Prince Frederick returned from his call, "This is something
+else," said the proud German heart; and the cheers were deafening. The
+greatest enthusiasm of the day was shown when Prince William and his
+family passed, in the most striking equipage of all, except that of
+the Prince of Wales. It was a State carriage of the time of Frederick
+the Great, its decorations of gold on a dark body; a large, low
+vehicle whose glass windows revealed the occupants on every side. Six
+Pomeranian brown steeds of high mettle were guided by the skilful
+driver, horses and outriders being splendidly caparisoned in light
+blue and silver. Rudolph, Crown Prince of Austria, solitary in his
+carriage, received his share of attention, as did the Russian Grand
+Dukes and Grand Duchess, the fine-looking King and Queen of Saxony,
+the Prince-Regent of Bavaria with his two sons of ten and twelve, and
+the Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, venerable sister of the Emperor.
+The Queen of Roumania bowed to the throng with utmost grace, smiling
+and showing her brilliant teeth; but whether the special huzzas were a
+tribute to the beauty of the Queen, or <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span>to the poetry of Carmen Sylva,
+we could not determine. All things have an end; and so did this
+dazzling State pageant, at which all Europe assisted and where all
+Europe was looking on; but not until Bismarck's carriage had conveyed
+the Chancellor to his chief, followed by General Von Moltke, who had
+the good taste to drive up simply, with two horses and an open
+carriage that interposed not even plate-glass between the great
+soldier and the loyal multitude. A few moments after their entrance,
+the Emperor appeared at the palace window, Bismarck on his right and
+Von Moltke on his left, and the hurrahs of the crowd burst forth anew.</p>
+
+<p>Later in the day the Crown Prince and Crown Princess entertained the
+royal guests at dinner; and Prince Bismarck, as usual on the Emperor's
+birthday, gave a dinner to the Diplomatic Corps. A drizzling rain set
+in suddenly in the afternoon, sending dismay to the hearts of all; for
+the most brilliant part of the celebration was still in reserve for
+the evening. The rain fell in occasional light showers up to a late
+hour, but it dampened only the outer garb, not the hearts, of the
+undiminished multitude, which at night-fall, on foot or in carriages,
+thronged the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>streets of the brilliant capital, whose myriad lights
+showed to better advantage under the reflecting clouds than they would
+have done under starlight. The carriages numbered scores of thousands,
+and the people on foot hundreds of thousands; but so complete were the
+arrangements of the police and so obedient the concourse, that all
+proceeded in nearly perfect order. Our coachman fortunately drove
+through Old Berlin and K&ouml;ln, as a preliminary to the evening's
+sight-seeing. Long arcades filled with Jews' shops were worthy the pen
+of Dickens. This festal day made this most ancient portion of the city
+also one of the most picturesque. Houses with quaint dormer windows
+roofed by "eyelids," of an architecture dating back two or three
+hundred years, gleamed with candles in every window. Almost no house
+or shop was so poor as to dispense with its share of the universal
+illumination. At least three horizontal lines of lighted candles
+threaded both sides of every street of this city of a million and a
+half inhabitants. Many private as well as public buildings in the old
+part showed by colored lights the picturesque, quaint streets and
+nooks, as no light of day can ever do. We were passing the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span>Rath-haus,
+or City Hall,&mdash;a modern and imposing edifice,&mdash;at the time when its
+great tower was being lighted up. Three hundred feet above the
+pavement floated the flags grouped in the centre and at the corners of
+the square tower. Invisible red fires illuminated them, the shafts of
+crimson light rising to the clouds above, the outlines of the
+remainder of the building dimly reposing in darkness. An immense
+electric light, guided by a reflector in another tower, shot a bridge
+of white light high in air across the river, and fell, like a
+circumscribed space of noonday amid black darkness, on the fine
+equestrian statue of the Great Elector by the bridge behind the Old
+Castle, with an effect almost indescribable. As we entered Unter den
+Linden by the Lustgarten, the beautiful square and its historic
+edifices, which form an ideal sight even by daylight, glowed and
+gleamed with jets of light from every point. The Old Schloss showed
+continuous lines of illumination in the windows of its four stories,
+along its front of six hundred and fifty feet, while the majestic dome
+caught and reflected rays of light from every point of the horizon. On
+the opposite side of the Lustgarten, the Doric portico of the National
+Gallery glowed with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span>rose-colored light from massive Grecian lamps,
+while the arched entrance beneath its superb staircase gleamed with a
+pale sea-green radiance like the entrance to some ocean cave. The
+incomparable architecture of the Old Museum was set in strong relief
+by white light, which flooded its immense Ionic colonnade and brought
+out the high colors of the colossal frescos along the three hundred
+feet of its magnificent portico. The front of the palace of the Crown
+Prince was thrown, by innumerable jets, into a blaze of crimson. The
+Roman Catholic Church of St. Hedwig, with its dome in imitation of the
+Pantheon, its Latin cross and window arches beaming in pale yellow,
+made a fine background for the only unilluminated building, the palace
+of the Emperor. From the Opera House, the Arsenal, and the University,
+crowns and elaborate designs were burning, yet unconsumed. Most
+elaborately decorated of all Berlin buildings was the Academy of Arts
+and Sciences, opposite the Imperial Palace, with colossal warriors in
+bronze keeping guard at its portals, and the Angel of Peace laying a
+laurel wreath on the altar of Fatherland as its decorative
+centre-piece. No high meaning of all its symbols was more touching
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>and significant than the appropriate texts of Scripture written for
+the Kaiser's eye, underneath its elaborate frescos. But of what avail
+would be an attempt to describe two miles of most beautiful
+decorations along Unter den Linden, each one a study in itself, and
+having nothing in common with the others, except the eagles and the
+Emperor's monogram; and the innumerable points of light, massed in a
+world of various forms, and in all the colors of the rainbow! This
+glow of splendor surrounded by the dense darkness covered the city,
+and the dazzling coronals of its lofty towers and domes and spires
+must have been visible to a great distance across the plains of
+Brandenburg.</p>
+
+<p>Slowly the triple line of carriages and the surging throng pressed
+onward, past the palaces and diplomatic residences of the Pariser
+Platz; some diverging down the Wilhelm Strasse, where streaming flags
+and blazing illuminations made noonday brightness and gayety about the
+palace of the Chancellor, but most passing through the Brandenburg
+Gate. The massive Doric columns of this impressive structure were in
+darkness, but the Chariot of Victory with its fine bronze horses,
+surmounting the gate, was weird <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>with the scarlet light of Bengal
+fires burning on the entablature.</p>
+
+<p>As the artist rests his eyes by the spot of neutral gray which he
+keeps for the purpose on wall or palette, so brain and eye were
+prepared for sleep at the close of this long day, by sitting in our
+carriages, safe sheltered from the soft-falling rain, outside the
+great gate which divided the splendor from the darkness, for three
+quarters of an hour, in an inextricable tangle of carriages, until the
+perturbed coachmen and the sorely vexed police could evolve order from
+the temporary confusion, and set the hindered procession again on its
+homeward way.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the day was not over for the much-enduring Emperor and his
+royal guests. In the famous White Saloon of the Old Schloss an
+entertainment was going forward. Blinding coronets and necklaces on
+royal ladies made the interior of this ancient palace more brilliant
+than its shining exterior on this birth-night. The Empress Augusta,
+leaning on the arm of her grandson, Prince William, was attired in a
+lace-trimmed robe of pale green, her diamonds a mass of sparkling
+light; the Crown Princess was in silver-gray, the wife of the English
+Ambassador in pale mauve, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>the Princess Christian in turquoise blue;
+and the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia wore a magnificent robe of
+pink satin trimmed with sable, with a tiara of diamonds and a
+stomacher of diamonds and emeralds. From the neck and forehead of the
+Queen of Roumania flashed a thousand prismatic hues; and the Green
+Vault of Dresden sent some of its most precious treasures to keep
+company with the fair Queen of Saxony in adding brilliance to the
+scene.</p>
+
+<p>Our reverie led from this starry point in history back to the time
+when, as on this memorable day, the royal salute of Berlin artillery
+shook the city, to announce the birth of a prince ninety years ago. A
+rapid, almost a chance recall of the years shows us Washington then
+living on his estate at Mount Vernon, Lafayette a young man of forty,
+Clay a stripling of twenty, Webster a boy of fifteen. The Directory in
+France had not yet made way for the First Republic; the younger Pitt
+and Canning held England; Metternich and O'Connell were in their
+youth, and Robert Peel was a child of nine. Napoleon Bonaparte was in
+the flush of youthful success, soon to become the idol of France and
+the terror of Europe, before whom the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span>boy, now Kaiser Wilhelm, and
+his royal family fled to K&ouml;nigsberg by the Baltic, while the conqueror
+held Berlin and reduced Prussia to a second-rate province. To this boy
+the flames of burning Moscow were a transient aurora-borealis under
+the pole-star; and Nelson and Wellington were unknown to the stories
+of his childhood, for as yet their fame was not. Goethe and Schiller
+were in the prime of early manhood; Kant and Klopstock elderly, but
+with years yet to live; Scott was just laying down his poet's pen and
+preparing to take up the immortal quill with which he wrote his first
+"Waverley;" Moore was singing his sweet melodies; Wordsworth had yet
+to lay the foundations of the "Lake Poetry;" and the fair boy, Byron,
+was chanting his early songs, not yet for many a year to die at
+Missolonghi.</p>
+
+<p>This wonderful old man of ninety, gayly stooping to kiss the hand of a
+lady to-night in his hospitable palace, like the young man that he is,
+has a memory stretching from the battle of Austerlitz across the
+gigantic struggles of the century to the battle of Sedan,&mdash;all of
+which he has seen, and a part of which he has been!</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep179.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 179." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>IX.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>STREETS, PARKS, CEMETERIES, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/f.jpg" alt="F" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />or a hundred years the picturesque Brandenburg Gate has guarded the
+entrance to Unter den Linden from the Thiergarten. It is a monument of
+the reversion of royal taste from the devotion to French style, which
+characterized Frederick the Great, to the purely classical. It is
+nearly two hundred feet in width, its five openings being guarded by
+six massive Doric columns about forty-five feet in height. To
+foot-passengers, riders, and ordinary vehicles the two outer spaces on
+each side are devoted respectively, while the wide central passage is
+traversed only by the royal carriages. The celebrated quadriga with
+the figure of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span>Victory, on the entablature, was first placed with the
+face toward the Park. When the First Napoleon robbed Berlin, along
+with other cities, for the adornment of Paris, he carried off this
+masterpiece in bronze and set it up in the Place du Carrousel under
+the shadow of the Tuileries. Upon Napoleon's downfall in 1814, this
+group was restored to its original place, but was set facing the Unter
+den Linden, making of the Brandenburger Thor a triumphal arch marking
+the victory of Prussia in the long contest.</p>
+
+<p>The famous Unter den Linden, nearly two hundred feet wide and three
+fourths of a mile in length, with a double line of lime-trees
+enclosing an area of greensward along the centre, would be accounted
+anywhere a handsome street, with the palaces of the Pariser Platz at
+one end, the Imperial palaces, the Arsenal, the Academy, and the
+University at the other, and brilliant shop-windows lining both sides
+of the whole length, while the Brandenburg Gate and the great
+equestrian statue of Frederick the Great at either extremity close the
+fine vista. Leaving out of view, however, these two noble features
+which mark its termini, the street seemed not handsome enough to
+justify its fame. Perhaps <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>this was because we found the famous
+lime-trees, for which the street is named, quite ordinary young trees,
+not to be compared with the magnificent elms which line the streets of
+New Haven and the Mall of Boston Common.</p>
+
+<p>The characteristic part of Berlin is, to our view, the great space
+east of Unter den Linden, surrounded by the palaces, the royal Guard
+House, the Arsenal, the University, and the Academy of Arts and
+Sciences. These fine buildings and the ornamented open spaces around
+and between them, on a sunny afternoon in midwinter, show a brilliant
+and unique scene which has hardly its parallel in Europe. The Champs
+&Eacute;lys&eacute;es is finer at night; Hyde Park, St. James, the Parliament
+buildings, and Westminster Abbey far finer on a sunny morning; but the
+third city in Europe has no need to be ashamed of its royal buildings
+and the scene before them, in the season when the Court is in Berlin,
+and the slant rays of an early afternoon sun light up the gay throng
+of soldiers in uniform, State carriages, pedestrians, and vehicles
+which surge to and fro without crowding the vast spaces.</p>
+
+<p>The Lustgarten is fine; but of the buildings around it, the Old Museum
+alone meets <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span>the eye with architectural satisfaction. In all lights
+that building is beautiful in design and proportions. The Old Schloss
+is impressive mainly by its massiveness and its august dome. A most
+picturesque view by moonlight is to be had from the east end of the
+Lange or K&uuml;rf&uuml;rsten Br&uuml;cke, southeast of the old palace. Here the
+water-front of the old castle is in full view, with the fortified part
+unaltered since the early occupation by the Hohenzollerns. This
+medi&aelig;val building, shaded by a few ancient trees, with here and there
+a light reflected from the upper windows at evening, and with tower
+and turret duplicated on the surface of the darkly flowing river at
+its foot, shares with one the feeling of ancient times, as no other
+place in Berlin can do. In the centre of this bridge is the equestrian
+statue of the Great Elector, superior as a work of art to any other of
+its date. This grand figure is fabled to descend from his horse and
+stalk through the streets on New Year's eve, for the chastisement of
+evil-doers.</p>
+
+<p>The Wilhelm Strasse, running from a point near the Pariser Platz south
+from Unter den Linden, has many palaces and public buildings; but its
+chief interest centres about <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span>No. 77, the palace of Prince Bismarck.
+The front looks eastward, and is built around three sides of a garden
+filled with shrubbery and threaded by walks, and shut off from the
+street by great iron gates and a high open iron fence. The study,
+where the Chancellor spends much time when in Berlin, looks upon a
+garden, and is furnished with the same simplicity which characterizes
+the private apartments of General Von Moltke. Among the few pictures
+which adorn the study of Bismarck is one of General Grant. Here it was
+that the famous Berlin Congress met in 1878 for the settlement of the
+Eastern Question.</p>
+
+<p>The palace of Prince Albert of Prussia, now Military Governor of
+Brunswick, is situated in a magnificent private park, acres in extent,
+in the heart of the city. It opens from the Wilhelm Strasse at the
+head of Koch. This palace was built in the early part of the
+eighteenth century by a French nobleman, with wealth gained in the
+great speculations of the Mississippi Scheme, upon which all France
+entered in hope of retrieving the bankruptcy entailed by Louis XIV.
+Its fine colonnade, its great park, and its position, adjoining the
+park of the War <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span>Department, between two great railroad stations and
+surrounded by tramways, render it one of the most prominent features
+of Central Berlin.</p>
+
+<p>The small and elaborately laid-out square of the Wilhelm Strasse,
+known as the Wilhelms Platz, with its pretty fountains, shrubs, and
+flowers, has bronze statues of six generals of Frederick the
+Great,&mdash;heroes of the Seven Years' War. Here it is easy to sit and
+dream of the olden time, in reverie which not even the Kaiserhof
+diplomats nor the Wilhelm-Street autocrats, within a stone's-throw on
+either side, nor the throng and glitter of the Berlin of to-day, can
+disturb. Here, surrounded by the figures and the faces of the men with
+whom Carlyle has made us acquainted, we recall the wonderful story
+which he, as none other, has written. How masterly is the way in which
+he has portrayed for us this Prussian history whose memorials stand
+around us! With feeling how deep and true for the real and the eternal
+as against the false, the seeming, and the transient! What a picture
+is the history! What a poem is the picture!</p>
+
+<p>At the northeast corner of the Wilhelms Platz is the palace of Prince
+Friedrich Karl, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span>one of the leaders of the Franco-Prussian War. It was
+once the temple of the Order of the Knights of Malta, but its
+sumptuous interior has now for many years been devoted to residence on
+the upper floor, and to the famous art and <i>bric-&agrave;-brac</i> collections
+of the late prince, on the ground floor. It is not difficult to gain,
+from the steward, the requisite permission to visit this interesting
+palace.</p>
+
+<p>Many private houses, interesting for their associations, might be
+found by the sojourner in Berlin who cares to search them out; but
+intelligent residents only, and not the guide-books, can facilitate
+this search. In the Margrafen Strasse, near the Royal Library, is the
+house where Neander lived and studied and wrote. Near the
+Dreifaltische Kirche, behind the Kaiserhof, is the old-fashioned
+parsonage which was the home of Schleiermacher, and in the
+Oranienburger Strasse is the house in which lived Alexander von
+Humboldt.</p>
+
+<p>Of the many beautiful parks, the Thiergarten overshadows all the rest,
+both because of its commanding location, close to Unter den Linden and
+other busy streets, and its great extent. A combination of park and
+wild forest, with streams, ponds, bridges, and miles of shaded avenues
+and riding-paths in perfect <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span>condition, its six hundred acres form one
+of the largest, most beautiful and useful parks in Europe. The
+elaborate and towering monument to commemorate the victories of recent
+Prussian and German wars is the centre of a system of grand avenues in
+the northeastern part. This monument was originally intended to
+commemorate the Schleswig-Holstein conquest; later, the victories over
+Austria in 1866 were to be included; and when the Franco-Prussian War
+was happily ended, it was decided to make of it also a fitting
+memorial of united Germany. On the third anniversary of the
+Capitulation of Sedan, Emperor William I. unveiled the colossal statue
+of Victory on the summit of the monument, which commemorates the chief
+events of his august reign.</p>
+
+<p>Immense bas-reliefs on the pedestal represent, on one side, events in
+the Danish campaign; on another is shown the Decoration of the Crown
+Prince by the Emperor on the field of Sadowa, with Prince Friedrich
+Karl, Von Moltke, and Bismarck standing by; the third side shows the
+French General Reille, handing Louis Napoleon's letter of capitulation
+at Sedan; and the fourth, the triumphal entry of German soldiers into
+Paris through <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span>the Arc de Triomphe. There is also a representation of
+the scene, on that day when all Berlin went wild with joy and
+exultation over the return of the Kaiser and his troops from Paris, of
+their reception at the Brandenburg Gate.</p>
+
+<p>Within the open colonnade of the substructure, a vast mosaic shows, in
+symbols, the history of the Franco-Prussian War, closing with a
+representation of Bavaria offering the German Crown to Prussia, and
+the proclamation of the Kaiser at Versailles. It was King William
+himself who refused to have his own image placed here as the Victor,
+and who substituted in the design of the artist the female figure of
+Borussia with the features of his mother, Queen Louise. The shaft,
+rising eighty-five feet above the substructure, has three divisions,
+with twenty perpendicular grooves in each. These grooves are filled
+with thrice twenty upright cannon, captured from the Danes, the
+Austrians, and the French, bound to the shaft by gilded wreaths of
+laurel. The Prussian Eagles surmount the column, forming a capital
+upwards of one hundred and fifty feet above the pavement; and the
+great statue soars nearly fifty feet still higher.</p>
+
+<p>In the southeastern portion of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span>Thiergarten is a colossal statue
+of Goethe, which shows at its best in the twilight of an early summer
+evening, framed in the tender greens and browns of the bursting
+foliage behind it. Not far away are the statues of Queen Louise and
+King Frederick William III., parents of Emperor William I., surrounded
+by beautiful flowers, pools, and fountains; and the famous "Lion
+Group" marks the intersection of much-frequented avenues in the same
+neighborhood. A wide central avenue traversing the whole length of the
+Thiergarten from east to west allows space for the tramway to the
+imposing edifice of the Institute of Technology and to the Zo&ouml;logical
+Gardens, where is one of the largest and best collections of birds and
+animals in the world, each species with habitations suited to it,
+several built in showy Oriental style, amid concert-gardens where
+beautiful music may be heard every day.</p>
+
+<p>A favorite walk of ours on sunny winter mornings was in the West End
+of Berlin, where are many of the finer aristocratic residences. No
+city can show, so far as we know, a handsomer residence quarter than
+portions of that which stretches between the Thiergarten on the north,
+the Zo&ouml;logical Gardens on the west, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span>and the Botanical Garden on the
+south. The collections of the latter, like those of the Zo&ouml;logical
+Gardens, rank among the first of their kind. The great glass house
+which shelters the <i>Victoria Regia</i> is attractive chiefly in the
+summer, when the plants are in blossom, but the cacti and the palm
+houses are interesting the year round. The palm-house is a Crystal
+Palace on a small scale. Entering, one finds a tropical atmosphere,
+hot and moist. All the larger palms and some of the smaller have each
+a furnace to themselves, from four to six feet in diameter and the
+same in height. Over this furnace the great tub is set which contains
+the roots of the tree, over which water is frequently sprinkled. The
+arrangement of the trees is graceful and beautiful. There are
+galleries and seats everywhere; and little imagination is required to
+transport one's self to Oriental and Biblical scenes, with these
+palm-trees towering overhead. A short walk east of these gardens is
+the Matthai Cemetery, where repose the brothers Grimm.</p>
+
+<p>The Schiller Platz, so named from the statue before the
+Schauspielhaus, is fortunate&mdash;if not in the life-size statue of the
+poet&mdash;in the fine pedestal, with its allegorical figures of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span>Poetry,
+History, and Philosophy, which were originally designed to adorn a
+fountain. In a still more crowded part of Berlin the Donhof Platz has
+recently been transformed, from a barren square surrounding the statue
+of that great Prussian, Baron von Stein, into a lovely garden-spot,
+with flowers and trees and birds for the cheer of the hurrying
+multitudes.</p>
+
+<p>The old Halle Gate, where several streets converge to the southern
+extremity of the Friedrich Strasse, is reached through ornamental
+grounds known as the Belle-Alliance Platz, in the centre of which is a
+column erected to commemorate the peace which followed the wars of the
+First Napoleon. Not far to the southwest is the Kreuzberg, the only
+mountain in this part of Brandenburg,&mdash;a modest eminence about two
+hundred feet above the sea-level. It is crowned by an iron obelisk
+which affords a good view of the city.</p>
+
+<p>Berlin has no cemetery comparable in extent or beauty to many in the
+environs of American cities. Three small burial-grounds, separate but
+adjoining, at the southern edge of the city contain the graves of
+Neander, with the memorable inscription,&mdash;his favorite motto,&mdash;"Pectus
+est quod theologum facit;" <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span>of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, his
+parents and his sister Fanny; of Schleiermacher, and of our
+countryman, the Rev. Dr. J.P. Thompson, long-beloved pastor of the
+Broadway Tabernacle Church, New York. Here, also, Bayard Taylor was
+for a time laid to rest, before being finally removed to his native
+land. Decorations are not so ostentatious as in Catholic countries;
+and quiet ivy, simple greensward, and the shadow of trees in which
+birds may sing, make the quaint Berlin cemeteries attractive places.
+This was to us especially true of the ancient cemetery connected with
+the Sophien Kirche and the old Dorotheen-Stadt cemetery, in the
+northern part of the city, where we went to look upon the graves of
+Fichte and Hegel, and of several artists famous in Berlin annals. In
+the Sophien Kirchof lies the philosopher, Moses Mendelssohn; and in
+that of the Garrison Church, De la Motte Fouqu&eacute;, the author of
+"Undine."</p>
+
+<p>One of the most conspicuous public buildings is the Rath-haus, or Town
+Hall, erected at a cost of nearly two million dollars. Its lofty
+clock-tower with illuminated dial tells the time to all Berlin by
+night, and adds a charm to the group of royal palaces and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span>museums on
+which it looks down. The ancient town-houses of North Germany most
+truly express the spirit of the old Hanse League; and the Rath-haus of
+Berlin, while keeping the spirit, adds the grand proportions and
+embellishments characteristic of the modern city. The interior
+apartments, including the Festival Hall, the Town Council-Room, and
+the Magistrates' Chamber, are elaborately adorned with historical
+frescos and statues, and the grand staircase has a finely vaulted
+ceiling and windows of stained glass filled with Prussian heraldry. A
+visit to this edifice by daylight gives one the fine view from the
+clock-tower; but to see the famous Raths-Keller underneath, with
+characteristic accompaniments, one must go after dark. One evening,
+after the adjournment, in an upper hall, of that rare thing in Berlin,
+a temperance meeting, a friend led our party through the elegant
+apartments of this place of popular refreshment. In the basement of
+this costly municipal building is a gilded saloon, upwards of three
+hundred feet long, divided into apartments. In some of these whole
+families were partaking of their evening "refreshments;" others were
+manifestly the appointed trysting-places of friends, while <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span>here and
+there, in sheltered nooks, the solitary ones sipped their wine or
+beer. Everything, so far as we could see, was orderly and quiet, and
+we were told that the place was one of eminent respectability. It is
+only after witnessing the habits of the people, in their homes and
+places of popular resort, that one is prepared to appreciate the
+enormous consumption of beer, averaging four glasses per day to every
+man, woman, and child in the kingdom, at an average annual cost to
+families greater than their house-rent.</p>
+
+<p>The Exchange, or B&ouml;rse, on the east bank of the river, is a most
+imposing building. The excitements of this money-centre may be seen in
+a visit here any week-day at noon. There are galleries for visitors,
+over the Great Hall, which accommodates five thousand persons.</p>
+
+<p>The Imperial Bank, like the Imperial Mint, is under State control; and
+both occupy buildings themselves worthy to be called Imperial.</p>
+
+<p>The great City Prison, on a modern plan, is in Moabit, a northwestern
+suburb. This region received its name, "Pays de Moab," from French
+immigrants on account of its sterile soil; but a part of it is
+becoming an attractive and beautiful residence quarter. To <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span>the north
+of this is a model state-prison, accommodating twelve hundred
+prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>The Insane Asylum is said also to be a model institution. It has
+accommodations for fifteen hundred patients; and its buildings are
+near Dalldorf, a short distance east of the route to the northwestern
+suburb of Tegel. The Medical Department of the University has large
+buildings in different parts of the city. Connected with these is the
+great Carit&eacute; Hospital, founded a hundred years ago, and richly endowed
+by public and private funds. In its many wards more than fifteen
+hundred patients are constantly under treatment. Another interesting
+hospital is the St&auml;dtische Krankenhaus, completed about fifteen years
+ago, on the "pavilion" plan, with the best modern appliances. This is
+situated in the beautiful park known as the Friedrichshain, in the
+northeastern part of the city. The Bethanien, in the southeastern
+quarter, is a large institution for the training of nurses, admirably
+managed, under the care of the deaconesses, or Protestant Sisters.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep195.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 195." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>X.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>PALACES.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />he palaces lately occupied by Emperor William I. and Crown Prince
+Frederick were formerly shown to the public during the absence of the
+occupants at their country residences; but as this was usually in the
+summer, when comparatively few strangers are in Berlin, they were not
+commonly included in a sight-seeing programme. They are pleasant
+homes, without great magnificence, but containing many interesting
+memorials of the lives of their Imperial masters. The palace of the
+Crown Prince was not used by him after he became Emperor Frederick
+III. The hundred days of pain which remained to him of life were spent
+at Charlottenburg and in the Castle of Friedrichskron at Potsdam.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span>The Old Schloss of Berlin, dating back in its foundation to the castle
+fortified on the river-side more than four hundred years ago by one of
+the early Electors of Brandenburg to maintain his rights of conquest,
+has received many later additions. It now has seven hundred
+apartments, and reached perhaps its greatest glory in the time of
+Frederick the Great, who was born here. It was then the central seat
+of the royal family; and here were deposited the records and treasures
+of the Government. It is now used only as the permanent residence of a
+few officials, but is the place of entertainment for many royal guests
+and their retinues when the great State pageants occur, of which
+Berlin has seen so many. It is popularly said to be haunted. There is
+a story that the Countess Agnes of Orlam&uuml;nde, many, many years ago,
+murdered her two children in order that she might marry the man of her
+choice, and that in penance her ghost is condemned to haunt the Old
+Palace of Berlin and that of Bayreuth. It is believed by some that
+this apparition of "the White Lady" appears to a member of the
+Hohenzollern family as a sure forerunner of death; and Carlyle's
+picture of the causeless fright of one of the royal rulers when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>he
+thought he had seen this ghost, will recur to all who have read
+"Frederick the Great." We have heard of no visitor so fortunate as to
+get a sight of the apparition. One enters through an inner court; and
+parties who wish to see the interior are taken every half-hour, by an
+official in charge, for a tour of the palace. The waxed floors of
+inlaid wood are very handsome; and, as in other parts of Central
+Europe, they are protected from the tramp of visitors by immense felt
+slippers, into which all are required to thrust their shoes, and in
+which one goes gliding noiselessly over the polished surfaces in a way
+to save the floors, but not always to conserve the dignity or gravity
+of those unaccustomed to the process. Many of the rooms are highly
+decorated, and memorials of the history of Prussia abound. There are
+many paintings, of which most are portraits or battle scenes, the
+picture gallery proper containing the pictures connected with Prussian
+history, and the Kings' and Queens' chambers the portraits of all the
+sovereigns. The Chamber of the Cloth of Gold and the Old Throne Room
+are highly ornamented, and contain massive gold and silver mementos of
+former kings and of Emperor William's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span>long career. Here also is the
+great crystal chandelier which once hung in the Hall of the Conclave
+at Worms, and under which Luther stood when he made the immortal
+declaration, "Hier stehe ich; ich kann nicht andere; helfe mir Gott.
+Amen." In the White Hall court balls are held, and here sometimes has
+gathered the Parliament to be opened by the Emperor. It is said that
+when lighted up by its nearly three thousand wax candles for a court
+festival, the scene in this hall is extremely brilliant.</p>
+
+<p>Charlottenburg has been anew endeared to the public by the pathos of
+the home-coming of Emperor Frederick III., who took up his first
+Imperial residence in this suburban palace, and from an upper window
+of which he watched the funeral procession of his venerable sire as it
+passed to the mausoleum. This only son and heir to a great throne
+might not follow the bier of the father to its resting-place, but
+gazed alone from the palace at the mournful pageant, knowing that the
+time could not be far distant when the same sad ceremonials would be
+repeated for himself. Who shall say what were the thoughts of the
+manly Frederick III., as, when wife and children had joined the sad
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span>procession which wound its way northward through that grand but sombre
+avenue of stately pines which leads from the palace of Charlottenburg
+to the beautiful marble mausoleum where Kaiser Wilhelm was laid to
+rest beside his mother and his father, the sick man stood immovably at
+that upper window, following only with his eyes, and with no spoken
+word, the drama in which himself was the central and most pathetic
+figure!</p>
+
+<p>Charlottenburg is a suburb some two or three miles southwest of
+Berlin, practically now a part of the capital, but with a corporation
+and a quiet life of its own. Sophia Charlotte, Queen of the first King
+of Prussia, founded for herself a country residence here at the
+village of Lietzow, nearly two hundred years ago; and this has given
+the palace and the present suburb its name. Here the idolized Queen
+Louise in the early part of this century lived much, and here are many
+portraits and marbles bearing her likeness. The palace and front
+garden are in unattractive "rococo" style, especially the rooms
+occupied by Frederick the Great; but the gardens in the rear of the
+palace are large and most attractive. The fame of the place arises
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span>chiefly from the beautiful Doric mausoleum to Frederick William III.
+and Queen Louise, created by the taste of their son, King Frederick
+William IV., brother and predecessor of the late Emperor William. The
+exquisite reposing figure of Queen Louise in Carrara marble lies under
+light falling through stained glass in the dome; and the tomb of the
+King (her husband) lying beside her is hardly less attractive. Both
+are surrounded by excellent accessories in marble and fresco, and it
+is a place where one gladly lingers long. The great avenue leading
+from the palace to the mausoleum has ivy-mantled trunks of giant trees
+for sentinels, and greensward and forest on either hand make a quiet
+which beseems one of the loveliest of resting-places for the dead. It
+was here that King William came to pray, beside the tomb of the mother
+who had suffered so much at the hands of the First Napoleon, on the
+eve of going out to the war with Napoleon III.; and here, when
+returning in the flush of victory as Emperor of United Germany, with
+Louis Napoleon a prisoner in the German castle of Wilhelmsh&ouml;he, the
+old man came again to kneel in silent prayer beside the form of that
+mother whom the fortunes of war had so signally <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span>avenged more than
+sixty years after her death. What wonder that in this sacred spot only
+did William I. wish to be laid, when death should gather him to his
+fathers!</p>
+
+<p>Sixteen miles southwest of Berlin, "that amphibious Potsdam" of
+Carlyle holds out manifold attractions by land and water ways. It is a
+city of fifty thousand inhabitants, besides a garrison of soldiers
+which guard its royal palaces and their lovely grounds. There are many
+interesting public buildings and historical monuments. It was early in
+our Berlin residence that, taking advantage of a bright morning when
+bright mornings were not too frequent, two Americans were set down at
+the station in Potsdam, armed only with a well-studied guide-book and
+a few words of conversational German. We did not wish to be shown
+everything, and so, declining the offered services of guides, engaged
+a drosky by the hour, with a kindly-faced young man for driver. He
+took the greatest interest in us, and supplied us with such
+information as we wished. For the rest we were set down at Sans Souci,
+free to stroll through its rooms in charge of the palace official,
+with our freshly read Macaulay and Carlyle in mind, striking the
+balance <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span>for ourselves between these two differing estimates of
+Frederick the Great, with every particular standing out vividly in the
+light of the object-lessons from that monarch's life which crowded on
+every hand. It was fortunate for us that we were the only visitors
+that morning, for this was the first palace we had entered, and the
+dreams of childhood were realizing themselves like the lines of a
+remembered fairy poem. The sympathy which spoke or was silent at will,
+sure of being always understood, gave the final touch of perfection to
+a memorable day. Beautiful for situation, the long, domed, one-storied
+building, the favorite residence of Frederick the Great, is impressive
+because of its history. As we wandered through the suites of elegant
+rooms and heard the stories connected with Frederick and Voltaire,
+their shades seemed everywhere to flit before us. The first terrace
+leads to the spot where the King buried his favorite horses and dogs,
+and where, before the palace was built, he once expressed a wish to
+lie at the last. "When I am there I shall be without care," he said in
+French; and so the palace afterwards built for him here took the name
+"Sans Souci." The great iron gates at the north of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span>palace had
+been but twice opened, we were told,&mdash;once by the force of the First
+Napoleon, and once when the greater monarch, Death, had laid his hand
+on King Frederick William IV., who was carried hence to his last home.
+The great fountain was not playing that day; but the drive through the
+vast and famous park, with its enticing views and bewitching beauty,
+left nothing to be desired except a convenient place for physical
+refreshments. Past the orangery, with its wide views over land and
+lake, and Bornstedt (the favorite country home of the Crown Prince) to
+the north; past the "old windmill" known to history, to the New
+Palace, with its magnificence, its great extent, and its curious shell
+grotto,&mdash;we leave the simple charms of Charlottenhof and its
+neighborhood for another visit, and hasten to stand beside the coffin
+of Frederick the Great beneath the pulpit of the Potsdam Garrison
+Church.</p>
+
+<p>Nearer to the station is the Old Schloss of Potsdam. An old lime-tree
+opposite the entrance is shown as the place where the petitioners for
+the favor of Frederick the Great used to station themselves, in order
+to attract his Majesty's attention from the window of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span>his bedroom, or
+as he went in and out of the palace. Here we were almost bewildered by
+the number and extent of the rooms, and the multitude of historical
+associations connected with them. Here lived Frederick William I.,
+father of Frederick the Great, in Carlyle's word-painting inferior to
+no other figure in that great composition. Here are the rolling chairs
+and the inclined planes along which that monarch was wheeled in the
+course of his long and painful illness; in his study are the pictures
+painted by him <i>in tormentis</i>, and looking forth from the south
+windows we see the parade-ground where he used to drill his giant
+soldiers. There stands a statue of this strange, eccentric monarch,
+who, notwithstanding all that was bad, had so much in him that was
+good and true. It was from this palace that his lifeless remains were
+carried forth to rest in the Garrison Church, not far away.</p>
+
+<p>As at Sans Souci, remembrance of Frederick the Great crowds upon us in
+the Old Schloss also. Here is his round-corner room, with walls of
+famous thickness, and a dumb-waiter lifting up through the floor the
+table and all its viands, that here he might dine alone with his
+intimates and no tell-tale <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>sounds escape. Here is the heavy
+solid-silver balustrade which separates his library from his
+sleeping-room. In this place, not long before our visit, Prince and
+Princess Wilhelm, whose winter residence was on an upper floor of this
+palace, had brought their youngest son for baptism. All the later
+sovereigns have occupied, at one time or another, apartments in this
+interesting old palace, and here many souvenirs of the present as well
+as former royal families are shown.</p>
+
+<p>Charlottenhof, in the southern part of the grounds of Sans Souci, is
+an unpretending villa, beautiful in its simplicity, and with all its
+charms enhanced by its having been granted by the King as a summer
+residence to Alexander von Humboldt while working at his "Kosmos."
+Near this is the beautiful Roman Bath, adorned with fine works of art.</p>
+
+<p>The New Palace, now known as Friedrichskron, built on a vast scale by
+Frederick the Great after the Seven Years' War, to show that he was
+not impoverished, has henceforth its immortality as the birthplace of
+Frederick III.; and here he expired, on the morning of a June day,
+scarce a twelvemonth after <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span>he had ridden among the foremost of that
+dazzling throng of potentates which graced the imperial progress of
+Queen Victoria to Westminster Abbey on the celebration of her regal
+Jubilee.</p>
+
+<p>In the days of their happy summer life, lived in great simplicity and
+homelikeness, the Crown Princess once wrote, in a little pavilion
+here,&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"This plot of ground I call my own,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Sweet with the breath of flowers,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of memories, of pure delights,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And toil of summer hours."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Alas! henceforth these domestic memories have an element of
+unspeakable pathos added by the remembrance of the last fortnight of
+that devoted life which vanished in this memorable spot, whence the
+funeral procession went forth, through the park of Sans Souci, to lay
+all that was mortal of the beloved Frederick III. beside the graves of
+their young sons Waldemar and Sigismund, in the Peace Church of
+Potsdam.</p>
+
+<p>Babelsburg, the summer home of Emperor William I., is to many visitors
+more charming than any of the historic castles and palaces of Potsdam.
+Distant two or three miles from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span>these, it is in striking contrast
+with them all. It is a modern villa in the Norman style, in a
+beautiful and extensive park northeast of Potsdam. One does not wonder
+that it was dearest of all his residences to the heart of the aged
+Emperor. Here, more than elsewhere, are the evidences and atmosphere
+of a simple yet courtly home life. Babelsburg should be visited in the
+early summer, when the trees of its great forest are showing their
+first leaves, clothed, and yet not obstructing the unrivalled view by
+land and water, and when the sward is embroidered by daisies and
+buttercups. Here the private rooms of Emperor William I. and Empress
+Augusta were freely shown, with scattered papers, work-basket, fires
+laid in the grates ready to light for the cool mornings and evenings,
+halls, staircases, reception-rooms, library, study, and
+sleeping-rooms, as homelike and everyday-looking as though they were
+those of any happy family in any part of the land. Of special interest
+to English travellers is the suite of rooms fitted up for the
+reception of the Princess Royal when she came to Germany as a bride in
+1858. The chambers are hung with chintz of pale pink and other
+delicate colors, such as one sees in England, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span>with the same
+dainty arrangements which make English bedrooms a synonym for spotless
+comfort the world around. Here were arranged the pictures of father
+and queen-mother and brothers and sisters, and the little souvenirs of
+home with which, as an English girl of seventeen, she fought the
+homesickness inevitable to a stranger in a foreign land; and here many
+of them remain, in the rooms still called by her name.</p>
+
+<p>The "Marble Palace" is seen to fine advantage, in the midst of lovely
+waters, from the road which leads from Potsdam to Gleinicke. It was
+the summer home of the present Emperor, while Prince William, and is
+not open to visitors.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep208.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 208." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep209.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 209." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>XI.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE HOMES OF THE HUMBOLDTS.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/a.jpg" alt="A" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />n hour by tramway, northwest of Berlin, lies Tegel, the hereditary
+estate of the Humboldt family. About two hundred years ago its hills
+and dales, pine forests and sandy plains, were the property of the
+Great Elector. Some eighty years later, a Pomeranian Major in the army
+of Frederick the Great was high in favor with the King on account of
+his distinguished service in the Seven Years' War, and was rewarded by
+gifts and promotions. To William von Humboldt, eldest son of this
+Major and Royal Chamberlain, descended the ch&acirc;teau and lands of the
+former royal hunting-lodge of Tegel. Though this was not, in strict
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span>sense, the home of the more famous younger brother, Alexander, these
+were his ancestral acres. Here he often came to this brother, whose
+death in his arms in 1835 cast a lasting shadow over his lonely life;
+and here, beside the brother and his family, his mortal part lies
+buried.</p>
+
+<p>A bright April morning was the time of our visit. The outskirts of a
+great city are seldom more free from unpleasant sights than the
+northern suburb through which we passed. Here and there, in the plain
+which surrounds Berlin, sandy knolls appear; now and then the tall
+chimney of a manufactory or a brewery pierces the sky; but the city
+insensibly gives place to the country. Clean-swept garden paths, trim
+hedges of gooseberry bushes just bursting into leaf, and hens
+scratching the freshly turned furrows, brought back a childlike
+delight in the spring-time; while the antiquarian tastes of later
+years were fed by glimpses of delicious old houses which raised their
+drooping eyelids in quaint gable-windows looking forth over
+ivy-mantled walls, as if in sleepy surprise at all the bustle and stir
+of this work-a-day world.</p>
+
+<p>One or two hamlets had been passed, and the camp, from which we had
+met a train of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span>artillery and many companies of soldiers on their way
+to the city, when the tram-conductor announced the village of Tegel,
+the end of the route. A few rods, and a turn to the left past some
+mills brings us to the entrance of the castle park. An obelisk,
+battered and ancient-looking enough to belong to the age of Cleopatra,
+stands beside the modest iron gate of the entrance. An old
+peasant-woman passing with a pack on her back answers our question by
+saying that this is an ancient milestone which formerly stood a little
+above its present site; and we surmise that its mutilated condition is
+due to relic-hunters. Inside the gate we see a grassy plain with sandy
+patches; here and there are deep open ditches for drainage; and
+avenues stretch off in several directions, bounded by rows of great
+overarching trees. We follow one reaching toward higher ground and
+forest-covered hills. On an elevation a few rods farther on stands the
+ch&acirc;teau,&mdash;the old hunting-lodge no more, but a two-story Roman villa,
+rectangular, with square towers at the corners, on each face of which
+is a carved frieze with a Greek inscription. Back of this "Schloss,"
+but not hidden by it, on a smooth slope, is a large ancient one-story
+dwelling <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span>with side front, in good preservation. Its ivy mantle does
+not conceal the frame, which is filled in with stuccoed brick, and
+which alone would proclaim the age of the building. The long slope of
+the mossy roof must hide a wonderful old attic, for it is full of
+tiled "eyes" to admit light and air, and two or three single panes of
+glass are inserted in different places for the same purpose. Three
+windows on each side the low doorway in the front look forth on the
+quiet scene, the lace curtains within revealing glimpses of a cosey,
+homelike interior. On one side are supplementary buildings fit for
+companionship with this quaint home, and a fenced garden and ancient
+orchard, beyond which five woodmen were leisurely sawing an
+old-fashioned woodpile of immense size;&mdash;only princely estates can
+supply such a luxury in these degenerate days.</p>
+
+<p>The shadow of death was in the villa. Two days before, Frau von B&uuml;low,
+the last of the Humboldts, had been carried forth, to rest beside her
+husband and children, her father William, and her uncle Alexander von
+Humboldt. The gnarled and twisted stem of a venerable ivy clasps with
+two arms one of the most majestic of the tall trees <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span>before the house,
+one branch bearing large leaves of a tender green, the other small and
+beautifully outlined leaves of dark maroon exquisitely veined. Beds
+bordered with box are bright with pansies. We wander onward, along the
+great shaded avenue, with level green fields on either side. An
+opening suddenly sets a study in color before our eyes. The unbroken
+stretch of sward southward is in most vivid spring green; there is a
+gleam of blue water beyond the tender purple of a distant forest,
+overhung by the fleecy cumuli of a perfect but constantly changing
+sky. It is simple and beautiful beyond description. We approach some
+wooded hills, well cared for, but lifting themselves upward in the
+beauty of Nature, not art. Buttercups and star-grass and chickweed
+arrest us occasionally by the roadside, until a wooded pathway brings
+us to a plot surrounded by an iron fence. Within, an old woman is
+trimming the ivy overspreading a grave, and there are eight or ten
+other mounds, all ivy or flower covered, and with low headstones. At
+the west end of the enclosure is a semicircular stone platform, with a
+stone seat skirting the circumference. From the centre rises a lofty
+shaft of polished granite, bearing on its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span>summit a statue of Hope, by
+Thorwaldsen. On the pedestal are the names of William von Humboldt and
+his noble wife, and near it the newly closed grave of this daughter,
+who at the age of eighty-five, after a distinguished life, sleeps here
+beneath the funeral wreaths which hide the mound, and bear, on long
+black or white ribbons, the names of societies and eminent families
+who have sent these tributes of remembrance and affection. White
+hyacinths and lilies-of-the-valley perfume the air, and palm-branches
+lie on the new-made grave, above the flowers. I treasure an ivy leaf
+or two, given by the workwoman, and pick up a cone which has just
+fallen from a fir-tree upon the grave of Alexander, as I read the
+inscription on his headstone: "Thou too wilt at last come to the
+grave; how art thou preparing?" This simple epitaph, with name and
+age, is all, except his earthly work, that speaks for him who was
+once, after Napoleon Bonaparte, the most famous man in Europe, and
+who, in learning and in devotion to Nature, was as great as he was
+famous.</p>
+
+<p>From the little burial-ground we took a hill-path, hoping for a more
+distant view than we had found but hardly expecting it. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span>Ascending
+gradually, there were glimpses of forests and hills far to the
+northward; and a porter's lodge, and stables, in a vale amid the
+trees, revealed only by the distant baying of a hound, and the blue
+smoke curling upward. Still we wound along, over the hillsides and
+under the trees, pausing occasionally to rest on simple rustic seats,
+on which were carved the initials of former pilgrims to these scenes.
+Faring onward, there came a sudden burst of light and beauty.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Far, far o'er hill and dale"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="noin">shines the blue expanse of the Tegeler See, with sunshine flooding all
+the broad acres between. The fortress spires of Spandau and the dome
+of the royal palace of Charlottenburg spring from the purple,
+forest-rimmed horizon; and beyond is a tangle of history written on
+the sky in domes and palaces and spires, I know not what, nor how
+many. To the delight of this sudden vision is added the thought of the
+generations of men and women who have trod this forest path, and whose
+eyes have been gladdened by this sight, until a file of mounted
+knights and nobles, from the Great Elector through a line of kings and
+emperors, of grand dames and fair princesses, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span>has swept in stately
+procession down the hill-side to be followed in imagination by the
+footsteps of many of the greatest men in literature, science, and
+philosophy which Europe has brought forth, and by those of statesmen
+and diplomatists from every quarter of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the ch&acirc;teau, we passed between it and the ancient house,
+when lo! a glance at the rear of the modern villa toward a
+second-story bay window under the spreading shade of a venerable tree
+told a new tale. I did not then know the history of the buildings, and
+it had seemed that only the low cottage was ancient, and the Roman
+villa comparatively modern. But here was a tell-tale slope of ancient
+roof, with a square port-hole of a window just beneath it, peeping
+forth behind the modern bay-window under the tree-tops, all out of
+harmony with the lines of Roman towers and roofs; and so we knew that
+the ch&acirc;teau was only modern in appearance, but ancient in reality.</p>
+
+<p>A day full of quiet beauty, not unmingled with delight, this had
+proved; worth to the heart, in some moods, acres of canvas and
+chiselled marble within the walls of royal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span>museums. But we were not
+yet quite satisfied. In the Oranienburger Strasse in Berlin stands a
+city house of the last century. Here, with a serving-man as the real
+master of his house,&mdash;with no wife, no child,&mdash;the author of "Kosmos"
+did much of his best work.</p>
+
+<p>"I was often with my father in Humboldt's house during his lifetime,"
+said my German hostess to me, after my return from these visits. "He
+lived among his books, in his study in the back of the house,&mdash;the
+second story, looking into the court; for he could not bear the noise
+of the street in the front rooms."</p>
+
+<p>To this place we found our way in returning from Tegel. We stood
+before it in the street, and read the inscription on the marble tablet
+in the front wall: "In this house lived Alexander von Humboldt from
+the year 1842 till <i>he went forth</i>, May 6, 1859."</p>
+
+<p>Entering the street door, we inquired of the bright-eyed little
+daughter of the porter, who had been left in charge, if we could see
+the second floor, where Humboldt used to live. "No," said the child;
+"there is nothing to see. Others live there now. As for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span>Humboldt, you
+can see his statue before the University!"</p>
+
+<p>The privilege of looking upon the home surroundings of Humboldt in
+Berlin was accorded us later, by an American gentleman into whose
+possession they had come. His massive old writing-desk, with a great
+mirror behind it, and deep drawers,&mdash;each bearing his seal,&mdash;where he
+kept his most valued curiosities and correspondence, and where now
+repose many of his autograph papers, is worth going far to see. Here,
+too, are a smaller writing-desk, his champagne glasses, quill pens,
+lamp-screen, candlestick, snuffers, and the last candle which he used.
+These and other significant and home-like memorials belong not to
+Germany, but to America, unless Germany repurchase them, as she
+should. Only in the house so long the home of their master will they
+fittingly repose, as the memorials of Goethe and Schiller adorn the
+homes that were theirs at Weimar.</p>
+
+<p>During the conversation with the child of the porter at the house in
+Oranienburger Strasse, I had looked into the large and pleasant court,
+and saw the great vine clambering up over the wall which must have
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span>been in sight from the study. Here doubtless it was that Bayard
+Taylor, the famous young traveller visiting the famous old traveller,
+had the interview which he described so vividly that at the distance
+of more than thirty years recorded bits of the conversation remain
+distinctly traced in our memory.</p>
+
+<p>"Humboldt showed me a chameleon," wrote Taylor, "remarking on its
+curious habit of casting one eye upward and the other downward at the
+same time,&mdash;'a faculty possessed also by some clergymen,'" added the
+facetious old man, as though he had discovered a new fact in natural
+history. Turning to a map of the Holy Land, Humboldt gave the young
+guest minute directions for his contemplated journey, until the very
+stones by the wayside seemed to grow familiar to the listener. "When
+were you there?" asked Mr. Taylor. "I was never there," replied
+Humboldt. "I prepared to go in 18&mdash;," naming a date thirty or forty
+years before. In such preparation for work lies an open secret of
+greatness.</p>
+
+<p>In the little cemetery at Tegel, which has now no vacant place,
+Humboldt's epitaph speaks to the living. His virtues and his faults
+are left to the judgment of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span>Omniscient. In the gallery of her
+great men Germany places the colossal figure of Humboldt beside that
+of Goethe. More than one century must pass before the place of either
+is finally determined in the perspective of history.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep220.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 220." />
+</div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep221.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 221." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>XII.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>PHILANTHROPIC WORK.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/t.jpg" alt="T" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />his has many departments,&mdash;educational, humane, and religious.
+Although the churches of Berlin are sufficient for only a very small
+per cent of the population, many private and semi-public enterprises
+carried on by Christian people show a true spirit of devotion to the
+good of humanity.</p>
+
+<p>The "Pestalozzi-Froebel-Ha&uuml;s" was established some years ago by a
+grand-niece of Froebel, who endeavors thus to carry out the principles
+of her great-uncle, whose instruction and companionship she enjoyed in
+her youth. Still in the prime of life, of gracious and winning
+presence, full of noble <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span>enthusiasm in doing good and of love for
+children; a devoted student of the principles and philosophy of
+education, ably seconded by her husband, who is a member of the
+Imperial Diet, and by other gentlemen and ladies of position and
+influence, and with the faithful assistance of teachers trained under
+her own supervision,&mdash;this lady already sees the ripening fruit of
+this renowned system of education.</p>
+
+<p>After struggling with obstacles at the outset, on account of limited
+means and lack of accommodations, the enterprise was finally
+established at No. 16 Steinmitz Strasse, by the generosity of two of
+the gentlemen referred to; and from the time it had a settled home,
+prosperity followed.</p>
+
+<p>"We wish to show that all work is honorable," said the Directress to
+me, "and our teachers are all <i>ladies</i>." The aim of the institution is
+to develop healthfully and fully the children committed to its care,
+and to prepare girls to be good mothers, Kindergarten teachers,
+housekeepers, and servants. There is thus a Kindergarten proper, with
+several departments; and a training-school with two grades, in one of
+which young ladies are received who are preparing to be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span>educators,
+and in the other, girls to be trained for household work.</p>
+
+<p>No distinction is made in receiving rich and poor. Having learned by
+experience that the poor truly value only that for which they make
+some return, the managers set a price upon everything, except help in
+cases of sickness. In cases of extreme poverty some member of the
+committee pays the dues; and in illness, appliances and comforts,
+medicines, and the services of a trained nurse are furnished without
+charge whenever there is need.</p>
+
+<p>The Kindergarten had, at the time of my visit, over one hundred
+children, between the ages of two and seven years. The price of
+tuition is about twelve cents a month to the poor, and seventy-five
+cents per month to those able to pay this larger sum. The children are
+brought in the morning by the mothers or nurses, and taken away early
+in the afternoon. They are divided into groups of about a dozen, under
+supervision of the heads of the different departments, assisted by
+those who are learning the system in the normal or training school.
+Each group has, alternating with the others, garden-play and work, and
+house-guidance and help.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span>We were first shown into a secluded walled garden-plot, covered only
+with clean sand. The children are disciplined by freedom, as well as
+healthful restraint. In this sand-garden they are free. With their
+little wooden shovels and spoons, and with their hands, they revel in
+the sand, as all healthy children do. They were no more abashed by our
+presence than tamed and petted birdlings would be to feed from the
+hand of those they had learned to love and trust.</p>
+
+<p>In the next garden, radiant with spring sunshine, a lady was
+surrounded by a group who were digging, planting, watering,&mdash;veteran
+gardeners of three and a half years. They are not free, but must learn
+obedience as well as gardening during the hour they spend here.
+Pansies in bloom bordered the regular beds and trim walks, and some
+were watering them from little water-pots. The stone wall around the
+four sides of the enclosure was covered by a vine just bursting into
+leaf. This had been trained, twig by twig, against the wall, by tiny
+fingers under the guidance of the lady in charge. A rustic
+summer-house contained a table, and seats of different heights. Here
+were seeds and implements for immediate use. Every stray <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span>leaf and bit
+of waste was brought by the children to a corner appropriated to it,
+covered with earth, and left to become dressing for the beds; thus
+teaching at once the chemistry of Nature and the value of neatness and
+economy. To another corner the children were encouraged to bring all
+the stones and shells they could find; and thus a rock-grotto was
+growing.</p>
+
+<p>From the gardens we went into the house. In the first room the
+two-year-olds were on low seats before a long table, where each had
+his six by ten inches of sand-plot, in which, with tiny wooden shovels
+and rakes, they were laying out garden beds and sticking in green
+leaves and cut pansies to make the wilderness blossom. Behind these
+were seats and tables for those who were a little older and could do
+real work. In a large tin dish-pan, two or three, under suitable
+supervision, were washing flower-pots with sponges and tepid water;
+others were filling the clean pots by taking spoonfuls of black loam
+from another pan; others, having been shown pansy plants with roots,
+and told that the plants took nourishment and drank water by means of
+these root-mouths, were pressing them carefully into the earth-filled
+pots and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span>giving them water. In an anteroom two or three children were
+helping to wash the leaves of ivies and other plants, having had the
+office of the leaves simply explained. All was done with such care
+that the clean faces and garments of the children were not soiled, nor
+the floor and desks littered.</p>
+
+<p>"We try to make one idea the centre of thought for the week,&mdash;not to
+confuse the minds of the children by too much at once," said the
+Directress. "This week it is pansies." In the garden children were
+watering pansies in bloom, and pansies were cut and dug for use in the
+house, where they were the materials for play and work. In one room
+the children had cards in their hands, in which they had pricked the
+outlines of pansies. Each had a needle threaded with a color selected
+by itself, with which to work this outline. In another room they were
+painting pansies. At Easter time the lesson was on eggs. We were shown
+eggs colored by the children in their own devices, birds' nests,
+feathers, etc. One treasure, I remember, was a blue card on which a
+barn was outlined by straws sewed to the surface, showing roof,
+hayloft, and stairs, mounting which was a lordly fowl cut from white
+paper.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span>One room is called "the baby room." At a long low table sat nearly
+twenty children, with dolls of every size and complexion, cradles,
+baby-wagons, changes of clothing for the dolls, beds, a tiny
+kitchen-range, with furniture, and every other accessory to doll life.</p>
+
+<p>The bathing is a department by itself. Every child is bathed, as a
+rule, when it is received. Then in the afternoon, once a week, many
+are brought for the regular weekly bath, which is so conducted as to
+make the children like it. The cost of the weekly bath is two and a
+half cents, and the children who are old enough often remind their
+mothers to save the small coin for this purpose.</p>
+
+<p>All the children are given a luncheon in the middle of the forenoon.
+Parents who desire it can have a dinner of good porridge also served
+to their children, about noon, at a cost of a little more than one
+cent.</p>
+
+<p>As the children approach the age of six, they enter the elementary
+class, where they have slates and pencils and a blackboard, and are
+taught the elements of reading. This is the only school exercise, so
+called, connected with the institution, and is to prepare <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span>the
+children to enter the public schools. After they leave the
+Kindergarten, some are received in the afternoons,&mdash;the girls to be
+taught sewing, and the boys carpentering.</p>
+
+<p>The last department shown to us was the music-room. Here the little
+ones stood, and counted, and beat double time, under the direction of
+a leader, to a slow, melodious air played on the piano. Then they
+marched, keeping step, and still counting the time. After this they
+took tambourines, triangles, drums, and clappers, and made a noise, in
+perfect time and tune.</p>
+
+<p>"Children like a noise," said the Directress. "Here they have it, but
+under direction and limitation. Some of the boys, when they are
+received here," continued the lady, "are so very, very naughty; but
+when they come to the music-class and have this noise, then they grow
+quiet and good. If it is taken away, they get naughty again."</p>
+
+<p>A religious atmosphere is sought, as the only one in which
+child-nature can normally develop. They have daily morning prayers and
+songs, religious books and pictures, such as "Christ blessing Little
+Children," and at Christmas time stories of the birth of Christ.
+Benevolence in their relations to one another <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span>is sedulously
+cultivated. The four-or-five-year-olds make little wooden spades and
+rakes for the two-or-three-year-olds, saying gravely, "We do it for
+the little ones."</p>
+
+<p>Meetings are held by the Directress with the mothers, and in several
+parts of the city three or four mothers have united in supporting
+little Kindergartens for their own families. The teaching of the
+Directress is also put in practice by mothers in their own homes,
+where much more time is devoted to the children than formerly.</p>
+
+<p>As applications are constantly on hand for more than can be received
+to this institution, I asked if the revenue from fees and gifts were
+devoted to the enlargement of the accommodations. "No; for
+<i>perfecting</i> the system and its methods," was the reply. And this
+seemed to me to be the key to this most interesting undertaking. A
+perfect development of child-nature is sought; and a Kindergarten
+means here, "not several hours a day spent in much folding of papers
+and braiding of pretty things," said the Directress, but a many-sided
+and all-embracing culture of the whole being.</p>
+
+<p>Having given this full account of the methods of the Kindergarten, the
+description of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span>the department for the training of teachers may be
+omitted. Not so with the department devoted to the preparation of
+girls who have left school for the duties of wives, mothers, nurses,
+housekeepers, and servants. In this important department of the
+Pestalozzi-Froebel-Ha&uuml;s, over forty young women from the various ranks
+of life were gathered. It was under the special patronage of the Crown
+Princess, whose own daughters were its first pupils.</p>
+
+<p>The lady who directed the teaching of washing and ironing kept a close
+eye to the perfection of the work, which is all classified. At one
+time table-linen is washed and ironed properly; at another, the best
+methods of treating dish-towels are taught; at another, the washing of
+flannels and the doing up of prints and ginghams; at another,
+clear-starching, the cleansing of laces and fine materials; and so on,
+until the whole round of a family laundry has been scientifically
+taught and enforced by practice.</p>
+
+<p>In one room a girl of fourteen or fifteen, formerly a pupil in the
+Kindergarten, was washing windows and paint. Well dressed, she was
+poised on a step-ladder, polishing a large pane of glass with a
+chamois skin. Her <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span>pail of suds stood on the shining floor, with a bit
+of oil-cloth under it, that not a drop of water should touch the
+varnish. I involuntarily looked at the wall-paper along the edges of
+the window and door casings and baseboards, and saw that no careless
+washcloth had ever left its trail on a surface for which it was not
+designed. As I glanced back at the maiden, she was folding her towels
+and placing them in a covered basket, with a compartment for each.</p>
+
+<p>We were now conducted to the kitchen. It was a large and pleasant
+room, in the second or third story, with three double windows looking
+out on a beautiful garden, the floor a marble or tile mosaic, and the
+walls frescoed. Dainty curtains hung at the upper part of the windows,
+in such a way as not to exclude light or air. Opposite the windows was
+a large range, on which the dinner for the family and for various
+ladies who statedly dine in the institution was cooking. Two of the
+ten young ladies present were learning that difficult art,&mdash;the
+management of a fire so as to produce desired and exact results in
+cooking, themselves having the entire responsibility of feeding it and
+regulating the draughts. On a thin marble slab another was cutting
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span>fresh beef into bits, which she presently placed in a bottle for the
+purpose of preparing nourishment for a member of the family who was
+ill. The preparation of food for the sick is taught in all its
+branches with utmost care. Two had evidently reached that branch of
+the cooking art which involves the preparation of luxuries by delicate
+processes. They were seated apart, each stirring, drop by drop, oil or
+flavoring into a sauce.</p>
+
+<p>One of the principles taught is that of the utmost economy of
+material. The teachers, with the young ladies under instruction who
+desire it, and the nurses, constitute the family, and have good and
+wholesome food, all prepared by those who are learning cookery. The
+making of delicacies and expensive dishes is also taught; and these
+are served to certain ladies, who dine at the house to test these
+dishes, for perhaps three months at a time, gladly paying for the
+privilege. Shining tin and other utensils, wooden and iron ware of the
+most approved patterns, in every size and variety, were systematically
+ranged about the kitchen in a way really ornamental. At one side were
+weights and measures, where everything brought in was tested. A map of
+the world, showing the productions <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span>of every zone and country, hung
+beside the sugar and spice table; and beside it was a glass cupboard,
+containing phials showing the analysis of every article of food. One
+small table was devoted to good and bad samples of household food
+supplies, the samples being in cubical boxes about an inch and a half
+each way, set into a large box with compartments, the whole so
+arranged as to show easily the qualities to be desired and those not
+to be desired by the purchaser. The book-keeper had her desk and
+account-books, where the amount of every article purchased and its
+cost were duly entered.</p>
+
+<p>The superintendent of the kitchen, with fine and ladylike courtesy,
+showed us her book of written questions, which those under her charge
+were required to be able to answer both from a scientific and a
+practical standpoint.</p>
+
+<p>One department of this domestic school is the supervision of a
+milk-route. The children of Berlin, like those of all large cities,
+especially among the poor, suffer for want of milk, or of that which
+is good. Here the milk of two or three large dairies in the country is
+bought by the Kindergarten committee. It costs them, by wholesale,
+much less than <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span>people in the city pay for poor milk. This good milk
+is supplied at a low price by an attendant, who is directed to carry
+the milk into the dwelling, instead of requiring the poor mother to
+leave her children and go to the wagon for it, as is the general
+custom.</p>
+
+<p>In the sewing-room mending and darning alternate, on certain days,
+with the cutting and making of plain garments. This department
+supplements the teaching of sewing in the public schools by
+instruction in only the higher kinds of plain sewing, and the surgery
+required to make "old clothes almost as good as new."</p>
+
+<p>Every part of the duty and work of an ordinary nurse is taught, like
+all the other departments, with the utmost faithfulness and
+excellence; and this department was supported by the Crown Princess.
+As we passed from the bathing-department, we met a sweet-faced nurse
+going out, who immediately returned with us, throwing off her alpaca
+duster, and showing, unasked, her private rooms to the unexpected
+American visitors with the greatest cordiality and the most ladylike
+grace. Refinement and perfect order characterized the rooms. There
+were closets with shelves filled with bed-linen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span>and undergarments for
+the sick in every size. This bedding and clothing is loaned to the
+sick poor without charge, on the sole condition that they shall return
+it clean. The washed and ironed articles neatly piled and folded
+bespoke both gratitude and faithfulness on the part of beneficiaries.
+Water-beds and other appliances for the use and comfort of the sick
+were stored in another place, and in still another were garments kept
+for gifts to the convalescent and particularly needy. As the nurse
+kneeled to replace a water-bed she had been showing us, the Lady
+Director lifted an ornament which she wore about her neck on a silver
+chain. Her color deepened prettily, as we saw that it was the monogram
+of the Crown Princess in silver, bestowed only for brave and specially
+meritorious service in nursing.</p>
+
+<p>If Germany is too slow, as we believe, in according to women the
+opportunity for higher education, surely this institution sets a noble
+example in that which to the world in general is of vast and
+incalculable importance.</p>
+
+<p>A mission to the cabmen of Berlin is conducted by a benevolent lady
+with great modesty but with most eminent success. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>The Berlin cabman
+is a picturesque object In summer he wears a dark blue suit with
+silvered buttons, a vest and collar of scarlet, and a black hat with a
+cockade and a white or yellow band. In winter, a great Astrakhan cap
+with tassels surmounts his bronzed features, he is enveloped in a long
+blue great-coat with a cape, and his feet are encased in immense boots
+with soles often from one to two inches thick. The covered carriage
+known as a drosky is a rather lumbering vehicle on four wheels.
+Formerly every one rode in these droskies, the fares being very low.
+But within a few years the tram-car, which is increasingly popular,
+has diverted patronage from the cabs, and the times are hard for the
+cabman. He must pay a certain sum to the company which controls the
+cabs, for the use and keeping of the horse and vehicle; must purchase
+his uniform at his own expense; and if his receipts bring him anything
+over and above these outlays, he has the surplus for the support of
+himself and family. How the average cabman in Berlin manages in this
+way to live, is a mystery. His family must dwell in a cellar or attic,
+or eke out their subsistence by taking lodgers, washing, or by any
+other means which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span>they can find. All must live on insufficient food;
+and this, with constant exposure to the weather and enforced idleness
+much of the time, is a constant temptation to drinking-habits.
+Beer-shops are numerous near the cab-stands; and the small change in
+the cabman's pocket often goes into their coffers, when it should be
+saved for the poor wife and children in his wretched home.</p>
+
+<p>About twenty years ago a German lady of noble birth, an invalid,
+employed as her substitute in doing good among the poor a Christian
+widow, whom she instructed to go out among the cabmen and their
+families. This work is still under the supervision of the lady who
+began it, and, now restored to health, she gives a large part of her
+time and means to this mission, assisted by a deaconess and six
+Bible-women under her direction, who reach the families of about eight
+hundred cabmen. If possible, the cabman is won, often through his
+family; and sometimes the long idle hours on his drosky-box are
+beguiled by the memorizing of verses from the little Testament given
+him to carry in his pocket. Then a circulating library is kept
+constantly in use by the Bible-woman, who carries a book in her bag to
+each house which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span>she visits, leaving it until her round again gives
+the opportunity of taking it up and putting another in its place. Best
+of all is the friendship which springs up between these poor people
+and their helpers. Doubt, anxiety, trouble, misfortune, all find
+loving sympathy; and when serious illness comes, especially in
+contagious and malignant diseases, when friends and neighbors flee,
+then this mission brings light into the darkness. The deaconess is
+also a trained nurse, to whom a yearly stipend is given, that she may
+devote her entire time to the work; and she is constantly going from
+one family to another, as scarlet-fever, diphtheria, and other
+diseases call for her help.</p>
+
+<p>As a special favor, I was allowed, with a few other American friends,
+to be present at an evening tea-meeting, such as are held frequently
+for the cabmen and their wives. An opening hymn, in which all joined,
+was sung; a passage of Scripture was read, and prayer offered. A
+"Gospel song" was well sung by a German gentleman as a solo, and then
+there was a familiar address from the eloquent Court-preacher Frommel.
+Another prayer followed, another song, and then the tea was served.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span>In a side room, separated by sliding doors from the audience, I had
+noticed, when we entered, ladies flitting about long tables and
+hovering over white china. The Countess Waldersee was there, in simple
+apparel, helping to pass the tea and abundant cakes and sandwiches, as
+were also two granddaughters of Chevalier Bunsen, and other
+representatives of honorable and noble Christian families.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the Baroness who is the cherishing mother of this work was
+helping, as occasion required; both she and her deaconess going from
+one row of seats to another, speaking a friendly word here, bestowing
+a greeting or answering an inquiry there, and unconsciously followed
+by a wake of happiness everywhere. As the wounded soldiers in Crimean
+hospitals turned to kiss the shadow of Florence Nightingale passing
+them, there was surely gladness in hearts and on faces here that would
+have counted it a privilege to kiss the place hallowed by the
+footsteps of these Christian women.</p>
+
+<p>About four hundred were present in the plain Moravian Chapel which is
+always used for these tea-meetings. Fewer men than women were present,
+as many of the cabmen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span>must be at their posts until near midnight.
+From time to time the Bible-woman at the door softly opened it for the
+entrance of one who had thought it better to come late than not at
+all. As these men in their picturesque garb came, cold and hungry,
+into the warm and well-lighted room, I looked to see if their physical
+wants were supplied before they were asked to partake of the spiritual
+feast. To my great satisfaction I discerned that a well-filled table
+had been spread just inside the entrance-door, from which they were
+served as soon as chairs had been handed them; and from time to time
+great motherly tea-pots went the rounds, to fill all cups a second
+time. When they had been warmed and fed, they often moved forward to
+be nearer the speakers; and when the exercises were over, one and
+another found his wife in the audience, and together they went out. As
+this was going forward, a parting hymn was struck, which seemed to
+form no part of the programme. Inquiring, I was told that this was
+always sung in parting, in remembrance of an occasion very sad, but
+also very precious, to their benefactress.</p>
+
+<p>The sullen roar of a great coming conflict of social elements breaks
+on the shore of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span>every land, now rising, now lulling, but every day
+drawing nearer. The simple chapel of this scene is little more than a
+stone's-throw from the palace of the Chancellor of the German Empire.
+Here, in sympathy and helpfulness, and not there, in absolutism, will
+be heard the Voice which only can say, "Peace, be still!"&mdash;the Voice
+which says to-day, as of old, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of
+the least of these, ye have done it unto me."</p>
+
+<p>The Young Men's Christian Association of Berlin has the hearty
+sympathy and assistance of Count Bernsdorff, lately an officer of the
+Empress Augusta's household and well known in diplomatic circles, of
+Court-preacher Frommel, and others widely known in other spheres of
+influence. Its intelligence-office has had nearly fifty thousand calls
+for advice and help in a single year, and twenty committees from its
+membership actively co-operate in different lines of work. Besides its
+various religious meetings, daily and weekly, at which there was an
+aggregate attendance of between fifteen and twenty thousand in one
+recent year, it maintains a well-equipped reading-room and library, a
+hall for gymnastic exercises, and fine reception-rooms. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span>Tea-meetings
+are also frequently held here; and two courses of lectures in English
+and two courses in French are given, besides courses of instruction in
+stenography and book-keeping. A male quartette gives frequent musical
+entertainments, and in one winter thirteen "musical evenings" held
+forth manifold attractions to this music-loving people.</p>
+
+<p>The Committee of Ladies co-operating in this work assists in obtaining
+positions, manages tea-meetings, etc.; and the management asserts that
+it increasingly realizes "how important is the eye and hand of woman
+in all its work." The magnificent gardens and park attached to the War
+Department were, during our visit to Berlin, opened on a beautiful May
+afternoon and evening, by the co-operation of the Countess Waldersee
+and under the patronage of the Prince and Princess William, to a
+promenade concert for the benefit of this Association. Two of the
+finest military bands alternated in rendering popular and classical
+music; and few who were present will ever forget the striking scene,
+where, amid the flower-bordered lawns, under sunset skies slowly
+fading through the long twilight into the gayly lighted evening,
+hundreds of ladies and gentlemen, some in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span>bright military uniforms,
+some with the insignia of rank, and some with only the stamp of
+Nature's noblemen, gathered about the refreshment-tables, chatted in
+groups apart, or sauntered along the fine old avenues under the
+towering trees or beside the lakes and fountains, the hours seeming
+all too short under the inspiration of the place and the music. Prince
+William, always in uniform, and the charming Princess, on this
+occasion in the simplest and plainest dress, mingled quietly with the
+company. As we passed out through the great gateway between nine and
+ten o'clock, the steeds of their State carriage were champing, and
+pawing the pavement of the quadrangle, held in check by the officials
+who were awaiting their return.</p>
+
+<p>The Crown Princess Frederick was the patroness of nearly every
+undertaking in Berlin for the good of women and children, and, with
+her noble husband, often visited among them. "On one occasion," said a
+German lady to me, "some one asked of the Crown Prince the particulars
+of a certain benevolent enterprise. 'Ask my wife,' replied the Prince;
+'she knows everything,'" It is certain that, from Kindergarten and
+other schools, to cooking-schools, training-schools <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span>for nurses,
+hospitals, and a school for the daughters of officers who would be
+taught art, literature, science, as a practical help in the battle of
+self-support, there seemed to be no enterprise which could not count
+as its chief patron the Crown Princess Victoria. The aged Empress
+Augusta was also the patron of girls' schools and soup-kitchens, to
+the number of more than a dozen, and was counted by many the especial
+friend of the very poor.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most interesting institutions to which we had access was
+founded upwards of twenty years ago by Dr. Adolph Lette, of Berlin,
+whose plans have since his death been faithfully carried out by his
+daughter, Frau Schepeler-Lette, who devotes nearly her entire time to
+its supervision. It was also under the patronage of the Crown
+Princess. Its object is to promote the higher education and practical
+industry of women, and to render single and friendless women the help
+and protection so much needed in all large cities. Many English and
+some American girls have reason to bless this institution, which knows
+no rank, no nationality, but only need, as the password to its
+gracious and abounding ministries.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span>One of its departments is the Charlotten-Stiftung, intended to help
+destitute daughters of German noblemen and military and civil officers
+to earn their own livelihood by giving them a practical education,
+especially in dress-making, cooking, and the management of a
+household. This department was founded and endowed by a noble German
+lady with property yielding an annual income of nearly twenty thousand
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Another department is the Bank of Loans. Its object is to assist
+unmarried women in establishing and maintaining shops, especially
+those who wish to establish business in some art-industry. No
+individual loan is to exceed one hundred and fifty dollars, and each
+is to be repaid in small instalments at five per cent interest. One
+per cent of the loan is to be repaid within four weeks after it is
+made, and the remainder in small specified sums fortnightly. The
+annual income of the "Bank of Loans" is about two thousand dollars.</p>
+
+<p>These departments, though most successful, are subordinate in interest
+to the main work of the Lette-Verein, as at present conducted, which
+has a commercial training-school, a school of industry and drawing,
+and a school of fine arts.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span>The commercial school offers two courses, of one and two years
+respectively. Girls and women, married or unmarried, are there offered
+the advantages of thorough instruction in writing and stenography,
+commercial reckoning and correspondence, book-keeping, knowledge of
+goods, commerce, banking affairs, and money matters in general.
+Lessons in French, English, and German, in Grammar, Geography,
+Correspondence, and Conversation, are also given. The fee for tuition
+is about forty dollars per annum.</p>
+
+<p>We were much interested in the School of Industry. Here were girls and
+women, mostly young, in bright, cheery, and well-lighted rooms, going
+through all stages of graded and scientific instruction in the cutting
+and making of dresses, mantles, and underwear, plain needlework, and
+in all kinds of embroidery and lace-work. The use of a sewing-machine
+is taught in a term of two months, six lessons each week. Millinery in
+all branches, the making of the finest artificial flowers by French
+methods, glove-making by machinery, and hair-dressing are practically
+carried on for the instruction of those who wish to learn these
+industries.</p>
+
+<p>A school of cookery, in which we were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span>allowed to inspect the
+scientific classification and analysis of provisions and to test the
+appetizing results of numerous ladylike pupils in various stages of
+proficiency, impressed us with the inestimable value of its training.</p>
+
+<p>In all these departments the pupils are expected to pay moderate fees,
+varying from twenty-five cents to one dollar per week; and entrance to
+any department can be made on the first of every month.</p>
+
+<p>Two lessons per week are given in the science of teaching, for a term
+of six months.</p>
+
+<p>The Employment Bureau has a vast correspondence, and is an agency of
+great good, as a medium of communication between women and girls in
+want of positions, and the employers of labor.</p>
+
+<p>A school and lodging-house for the training of servant-girls has been
+much called for, and has lately been started.</p>
+
+<p>The Drawing-School has a seminary for the training of teachers, and a
+school for teaching the different branches of industrial drawing.
+There are free-hand drawing from copies and plaster models,
+perspective and geometrical drawing, the drawing and painting of
+ornamental and practical designs, and flower-painting on wood, china,
+and paper, with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span>thorough courses of one and two years in the History
+of Art. Modelling in clay, wax, and designs for gold and silver
+industry, bronzes, etc., are given eight hours in each week.</p>
+
+<p>There is also a school of type-setting in connection with the Berlin
+Typographical Company, in which female compositors over the age of
+sixteen may be received, to the number of thirty-six, under the close
+supervision of the Lette-Verein, and at which, after an apprenticeship
+of six months, all pupils are paid for their work.</p>
+
+<p>There is a boarding-house, called the Victoria-Stift, in connection
+with this institution, with a <i>caf&eacute;</i> or refreshment-room, where the
+tables are supplied, to ladies, at economical prices, from the
+cooking-school. It has also a lending-library and a Victoria Bazar,
+where all kinds of needlework done by the pupils are offered for sale,
+and orders are taken for family sewing.</p>
+
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+
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep249.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 249." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h3>XIII.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>AROUND BERLIN.</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p class="noin"><img src="images/b.jpg" alt="B" style="margin-right: .25em; float: left;" />erlin, on account of its general healthfulness and its combination of
+economical and other attractions, is esteemed by many experienced
+travellers as, on the whole, the continental city best adapted to an
+extended residence abroad. To the visitor with limited time, the city
+itself and Potsdam&mdash;"the Prussian Versailles"&mdash;monopolize the
+attention. But to those who can spend more time there, the attractive
+environs and places which may be seen within the limits of a day's
+excursion are many and varied.</p>
+
+<p>Gr&uuml;newald, not far beyond Charlottenburg, is the seat of a royal
+hunting-lodge, and its fine old woods are most attractive. It may <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span>be
+reached by railway and steam-tram, and also, in summer, by water. The
+extensive forest occupies a great stretch of country below the
+junction of the Spree with the Havel, which here, on the west, loiters
+and meanders and turns upon itself; now spreading out into wide lakes,
+now narrowing to a thread, but finally reaching in its dubious course
+the wide-flowing Elbe. The great bay into which the Havel here expands
+has pretty islands and shores. Pichelsberg, at the northern extremity
+of the bay, is a place of popular resort, where observation of Nature
+is rather concentrated on that branch known as human nature. Wansee,
+at the southern extremity, is picturesque and rural,&mdash;a delightful
+place in which to spend a quiet day in early summer.</p>
+
+<p>Spandau, eight miles west of Berlin, at the junction of the Spree with
+the Havel, has much historical and military interest. Here, surrounded
+by immense fortifications, is the workshop of the German army; and
+here in the citadel, or old "Julius tower," are kept "the sinews of
+war," in the form of a reserve military fund of from fifteen million
+to thirty million dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The railway toward Hanover leads on from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span>Spandau to the long-settled
+region near the crossing of the Elbe, which here flows northward
+between high banks. Not far from the Elbe is the railway station of
+Sch&ouml;nhausen, some two hours' ride from Berlin. The estate of
+Sch&ouml;nhausen had been in the Bismarck family two hundred and fifty
+years, when the Chancellor was born there in 1815. Later, this old
+family inheritance passed to other ownership; but the numerous friends
+and admirers of the great diplomatist repurchased it, and presented it
+to him on his seventieth birthday, April 1, 1885. The great
+gratification of possessing this ancient home hardly induces Prince
+von Bismarck to spend much time there. Possibly it is within too easy
+reach of his cares in the capital. The distant Friedrichsruh in the
+forest of Sachsenswald, within a dozen miles of Hamburg, and more than
+one hundred and fifty miles northwest of Berlin, is his favorite
+residence; and Varzin, upwards of two hundred miles to the northeast,
+in Baltic Pomerania, sometimes wins him to its still greater quiet and
+seclusion. Here Bismarck received our countryman, the historian
+Motley, and his daughter, with the delightful welcome to companionship
+and the simple and informal family life <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span>so charmingly portrayed in
+Motley's correspondence.</p>
+
+<p>The whole region of Sch&ouml;nhausen was as early settled as Berlin itself.
+Fine old churches, castles, and medi&aelig;val town walls mark the
+neighboring towns of Stendal and Tangerm&uuml;nde, the latter the long-time
+seat of the Margraves of Brandenburg.</p>
+
+<p>A short d&eacute;tour from the main line to the northwest of Berlin brings
+one to Fehrbellin, where the Great Elector defeated a Swedish army
+double the size of his own. In the same region are Neu Ruppin and
+Rheinsberg, each connected with many memories of the youth of
+Frederick the Great. At the Castle of Rheinsberg he spent the
+comparatively happy years of his unhappy married life. His neglected
+queen, who never saw his favorite palace at Sans Souci, and who was
+wife and queen only in name for many long years, said that the early
+days at Rheinsberg were her happiest. Though these places are hardly
+more than thirty miles northwest of Berlin, lack of railway
+connections renders it impracticable to visit them in a single day.</p>
+
+<p>The most direct thoroughfare to Copenhagen, that by way of Rostock,
+passes, outside <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span>the elevated railway known as the Ringbahn, the
+village of Pankow, also reached by tramway, and also once the
+residence of the Queen of Frederick the Great. This road leads north
+from Berlin, at first through a country dotted with lakes. Our memory
+of these is of beautiful sheets of water, surrounded by the green of
+mid-June, and over-arched by the blue sky and the fleecy cumuli of a
+perfect summer day. The characteristic North German landscape was here
+seen to fine advantage. The color of the cottages and farm-houses
+harmonizes or contrasts beautifully with the landscape. Roofs of brown
+weather-beaten thatch or of dull red tiles, in the midst of embowering
+trees and shrubbery, formed for us pictures of beauty long to be
+remembered. Frienwalde, to the northeast, has mineral springs in the
+most attractive part of Brandenburg, and is growing as a place of
+summer resort. The fine old monastery, and the ruined early Gothic
+abbey-church of Chorin on the Stettin Railway, the burial-place of the
+Margraves of Brandenburg, are interesting to all students of
+architecture.</p>
+
+<p>An eastern suburb of Berlin is K&ouml;penick, in the ch&acirc;teau of which the
+youthful <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span>Frederick the Great was tried for his life by court-martial,
+by order of his tyrannical father; and in the same direction, an hour
+from Berlin by express-train, is C&uuml;strin, whose strong castle was the
+scene of his subsequent imprisonment, and where, in sight from his
+window, his noble friend, Lieutenant von Katte, was beheaded on the
+ramparts for no other crime than fidelity to his young master.</p>
+
+<p>Another most interesting excursion is that to Frankfort-on-the-Oder,
+two hours eastward of Berlin. This largest city of Brandenburg outside
+the capital has a varied history, dating from before the time when
+this region was won from the heathen Slavs to Germany and
+Christianity. This old stronghold of the Wendish race saw many
+vicissitudes in the great wars of the sixteenth and seventeenth
+centuries, being the last important place on the great trading-route
+from Poland to Berlin. It has annual fairs which are relics of these
+olden times, interesting medi&aelig;val churches, and a town-house bearing
+on its gable the device of the Hanseatic League,&mdash;an oblique rod
+supported by a shorter perpendicular one.</p>
+
+<p>To the southeast, a few miles out on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span>G&ouml;rlitz Railway, is
+Wusterhausen, in the picturesque region of the frequented
+M&uuml;ggelsberge,&mdash;itself made memorable by an episode in Carlyle's pages.</p>
+
+<p>No more fascinating trip can be taken in summer, after Berlin and
+Potsdam have been visited, than to the wild and beautiful
+Spreewald,&mdash;a combination of forest and morass not yet wholly redeemed
+to the civilization of Europe, but holding in its remoter depths a
+genuine relic of the old barbarism. The G&ouml;rlitz Railway skirts this
+forest for twenty-five miles before reaching L&uuml;bben, some two hours
+from Berlin in a southerly direction. This is the best point of
+departure from the train for a visit to the forest, which is cut by
+more than two hundred arms of the Spree, some parts of the wood only
+to be reached by boats or skates. Here, in their villages reclaimed
+from the swamps, live the descendants of the aboriginal Wends, who
+have preserved intact their language, their manners, and their modes
+of dress. This Venice of North-central Germany has for streets the
+water-ways of the Spree, and for palaces the log huts of the
+aboriginal race; but no views of Nature are more exquisite than some
+of those in the Upper and Lower Spreewald.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>Twenty-two miles west of Potsdam, on the Havel, is the city of
+Brandenburg,&mdash;the old Brennabor of the Slavic people who fortified it
+before the beginning of modern history. The Castle of Brandenburg may
+share with the celebrated and beautiful one of Meissen, near Dresden,
+the honor of being the oldest in Germany. Conquered from the original
+owners by the Emperor Henry I. in 927, it was by them retaken. More
+than two centuries afterwards, Albert the Bear captured and kept it,
+and thenceforth styled himself First Margrave of Brandenburg. For six
+hundred years this old town shared in all the strifes of that
+turbulent and passionate time between the midnight of the Dark Ages
+and the dawn of modern history, and its old buildings will tell much
+of its forgotten story to any one who lays his ear beside their
+ancient stones to hear.</p>
+
+<p>At Steglitz, a southwest suburb, may be seen the mulberry plantation
+and the one silk manufactory of Berlin. It was not our lot to find the
+large nurseries and hot-houses which make the flower-shops and
+market-places of Berlin exquisitely radiant with blossoms at all
+seasons,&mdash;beyond even the famous Madeleine flower-market at Paris in
+the season <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span>when we visited it&mdash;and, if so, surpassing in this respect
+all other cities.</p>
+
+<p>One of the two routes to Dresden and Leipsic passes Lichterfelde, five
+miles from Berlin, where conspicuous buildings are the seat of the
+chief cadet-school in Germany. Here are accommodations for eight or
+nine hundred cadets, the flower of German youth. Neither pains nor
+expense has been spared in the erection and embellishment of these
+extensive buildings. The "Flensburg Lion," erected by the Danes to
+commemorate a former victory in Schleswig-Holstein over the Prussians,
+and later captured by the latter, stands here before the house of the
+Commandant.</p>
+
+<p>Five or six miles farther on is Gross-Beeren, a Napoleonic battlefield
+where B&uuml;low won a victory over the French in 1813; and about an hour
+and a half from Berlin, in the same direction, is the little city of
+J&uuml;terbok, with interesting old edifices. The student of the
+Reformation will feel most interest in this place as that where Tetzel
+was selling his famous "indulgences" when Luther, protesting in
+righteous wrath, nailed to the door of the Wittenberg Church the
+ninety-five theses which set all Germany ablaze. One of these
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span>"indulgences" is kept for inspection in the Nicolai Kirche of
+J&uuml;terbok. Near by are the old Cistercian abbey of Zinna, and another
+battlefield, Dennewitz, an important strategic point in one of the
+campaigns against the First Napoleon, where the victory of B&uuml;low over
+Ney and Oudinot saved Berlin from the hands of the enemy.</p>
+
+<p>No student of history&mdash;especially no Protestant&mdash;can afford to visit
+Berlin without an excursion to Wittenberg, which may either be
+compressed into a single day, with a few hours in this old University
+town which was the cradle of the Reformation, or may be pleasantly
+prolonged to days full of musing on the manifold phases of that
+unparalleled movement in the history of religious thought, amid the
+very scenes with which they were most intimately associated. Not alone
+that Germany is to-day what Luther, more than any other man, has made
+it, but as heirs to the inheritance which he bequeathed to all lands
+and ages, are Americans called to the profound study of the epoch
+which Luther shaped, and of which our age is but a part. Of all
+intense pleasures, none to us was greater than a humble pilgrimage
+through Germany where our feet were set in the footprints of the
+Reformer.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span>Quaint Eisleben, with the house where he was born, and that in whose
+chamber he was suddenly stricken with mortal pain, while his companions
+watched with awe the passing to higher service of that valiant soul, we
+had visited before we looked upon Wittenberg. Mansfield, too, with its
+flaming forges and its vast cinder-heaps,&mdash;where Hans Luther, the
+miner, toiled to feed his wife and babes,&mdash;we had seen; and historic
+Erfurt, with memories of the University where he studied and the
+monastery into which he went, taking with him, of all his books, only
+his Plautus and his Virgil, to study the Latin Bible chained to its
+post, and to fight that mental battle which toughened his sinews for
+the world-conflicts awaiting him; and whence he emerged at the call of
+his Superior, a young priest of twenty-five years, to take the
+professorship offered him at the new University of Wittenberg. At
+lovely Eisenach we had tarried for days; had entered the door of the
+once grand house of the burgomaster Cotta, before which little Martin,
+with the other charity boys of the school near by, had sung Christmas
+carols for his bread, and where he had been taken to the heart and the
+home of Mother Ursula; had peeped into the room <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span>there that was his,
+and been driven up the mountain-side beyond the village whose crown is
+the fine old castle of the Wartburg; had stood at the solitary casement
+of the room where he fought with the devil, and looked out over the
+magnificent panorama of wooded mountains and beautiful valley where he
+looked forth day after day of those ten months of mysterious
+imprisonment, into which friendly hands had thrust him from the thick
+of the fight,&mdash;where he saw the miracle of spring-time creeping over
+the hills and waving trees far beneath him, and heard and felt the
+wintry winds howl around his solitude. He was only thirty-five, but he
+had already come into conflict with the mightiest power on earth, and
+his life was forfeited, when here he slowly came to know that God had
+thoughts of good and not of evil concerning him; and here he began
+another work,&mdash;the translation of the New Testament,&mdash;for which he
+never would have had time if left to himself. Eisenach, with its
+dramatic situation, perhaps lingers longest in the memory of men of any
+place connected with that great story. But if it bore a more poetic
+share, it was not the most important. It was neither at Leipsic nor at
+Heidelberg, at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span>N&uuml;remberg nor at Speyer, at Augsburg nor even at Worms,
+that the great drama had its chief location, though memories of Luther
+were to us among the conspicuous attractions of these places.</p>
+
+<p>From the time when the young monk emerged from Erfurt, where his
+preparation for life was made, until at sixty-three he had "finished
+his course," Wittenberg was his only home. For thirty-eight long years
+here his heart was, and here, like the needle to the pole, the
+direction of his activities constantly turned. Here, in the old
+Augustinian monastery, is the lecture-room and the ancient "cathedra"
+from which he delivered those lectures which laid the foundation of
+his fame in the early years of his professorship. Here he quietly
+wrought at his translation of the Bible and discharged the duties of
+his position, while his voice shook the world, and all Europe was
+swaying in the storm, himself the calm centre of the whirlwind. Here,
+at the age of forty-two, he brought his bride, the nun Katherine von
+Bora; and in this monastery, presented to him by his friend the
+Elector, his six children were born. Hither, when his work was done,
+his lifeless form was borne, followed by a weeping funeral <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span>procession
+which stretched across Germany; and here in the church which had been
+the scene of so many great sermons, he was laid to rest, with room for
+Melanchthon beside him. Here one may enter that other church where he
+first administered the communion in both kinds to the laity; may read
+the immortal theses, now in enduring bronze on the doors of the castle
+church; may pluck a leaf from the oak-tree planted on the spot outside
+the city gate where he burned the papal bull; may sit in the
+window-seat of his family-room, surrounded by his table, his bench,
+and his stove, and listen where that family music seems still to echo;
+may wander in the old garden, amid the representatives of the trees
+which shaded him, and the flowers and birds he loved; may sit at the
+stone table in Melanchthon's garden where the names of the friends are
+inscribed; may stand before their statues in the market-place and hear
+his voice: "If it be God's work, it will endure; if man's, it will
+perish."</p>
+
+<p>As we live over these days and realize afresh all that history can
+tell us of the wondrous story, we know that not the polish and the
+learning of its scientists, its philosophers, and its men of letters,
+not the prowess of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span>its soldiers and its military leaders, have made
+United Germany possible, but that Bible which Luther translated for
+the German people,&mdash;that standard of the German tongue which through
+all the conflicts of three centuries and a half has defied the power
+of diverse interests, and cemented and preserved the integrity of the
+nation.</p>
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep263.jpg" width="25%" alt="decoration for the end of page 263." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span><br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/imagep265.jpg" width="50%" alt="decoration for the top of page 265." />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<h3>INDEX.<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+<br />
+
+<ul>
+<li>Academy of Arts and Sciences, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li>
+
+<li>American Chapel, <a  href="#Page_91">91-93</a>.</li>
+
+<li>American Thanksgiving Banquet, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Americans in Berlin, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antiquarium, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Apartments, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Army, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Army Bill, debate on, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arsenal, <a  href="#Page_111">111-113</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Art Collections, <a  href="#Page_108">108-110</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Babelsburg, <a  href="#Page_206">206-208</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bach's Passion Music, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bank, Imperial, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Belle Alliance Platz, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Berlin,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Cathedral, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+  <li>Cathedral service, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</li>
+  <li>character of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+  <li>church attendance, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li>
+  <li>climate, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li>
+  <li>latitude, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li>
+  <li>Old Berlin, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li>
+  <li>parade, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Bethanien, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Birthdays, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bismarck, Chancellor von, <a  href="#Page_125">125-130</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>palace of, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Bornstedt, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li>B&ouml;rse, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Botanical Gardens, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brandenburg, Castle and City of, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Brandenburg Gate, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li>
+
+<li>B&uuml;low, Frau von, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bundesrath, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Cabmen's Mission, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cemeteries,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Dorotheen-Stadt, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+  <li>Garrison Kirche, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+  <li>Matthai, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sophien Kirche, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Charlottenburg, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a  href="#Page_198">198-201</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Mausoleum at, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Charlottenhof, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Chorin, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Christmas, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Churches of Berlin,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Cathedral, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+  <li>Chapel, American, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li>
+  <li>English, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li>
+  <li>French, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li>
+  <li>Garrison, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li>
+  <li>Heiliggeist, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li>
+  <li>Jerusalems, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li>
+  <li>Kloster, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li>
+  <li>Marien. <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li>
+  <li>New, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li>
+  <li>Nicolai, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li>
+  <li>Trinity, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>City Prison, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Closets, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Concerts, <a  href="#Page_48">48-50</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Cornelius, cartoons, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crown Prince Frederick, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>as Emperor, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a  href="#Page_142">142-151</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a  href="#Page_195">195-199</a>.</li>
+  <li>birthplace, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+  <li>new palace, Friedrichskron, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+  <li>funeral service, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Crown Princess Victoria, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a  href="#Page_206">206-208</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>C&uuml;strin, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Dennewitz, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Donhof Platz, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Dryander, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Easter, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Educational system, <a  href="#Page_59">59-61</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eisenach, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Eisleben, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Elevators, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Emperor Wm. I., <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a  href="#Page_136">136-138</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>ninetieth birthday, <a  href="#Page_159">159-166</a>.</li>
+  <li>palace, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+  <li>burial-place, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Emperor Wm. II. (Prince William, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>), <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Princess William, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>English Church, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Erfurt, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Fehrbellin, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fichte, grave of, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Fouqu&eacute;, De la Motte, grave of, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frankfort-on-Oder, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frederick Wm. I., <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frederick II. (the Great), <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a  href="#Page_252">252-254</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>statue of, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Frederick Wm. III., <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frederick Wm. IV., <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Friedrichsruh, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frienwalde, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Frommel, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Funerals, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Furniture, <a  href="#Page_16">16-18</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>German Army, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Germany, a military power, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Good Friday, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Great Elector, statue of, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Grimm brothers, graves of, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gross-Beeren, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gr&uuml;newald, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Gymnasia, <a  href="#Page_59">59-61</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Hanse League, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>device of, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Hegel, grave of, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hildesheim, silver service, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Hospitals, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Humboldt, Alexander von, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a  href="#Page_210">210-220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Humboldt, William von, <a  href="#Page_209">209-214</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Insane Asylum, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Jews,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>synagogue, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.
+    <ul class="nest2">
+    <li>music, <a  href="#Page_88">88-90</a>.</li>
+    <li>service, <a  href="#Page_88">88-90</a>.</li>
+    </ul>
+  </li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>J&uuml;terbok, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Kaiserhof, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kaulbach, frescos, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Knights of Malta, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li>K&ouml;ln, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li>
+
+<li>K&ouml;penick, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Kreuzberg, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Lette-Verein,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Bank of Loans, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+  <li>Charlotten-Stiftung, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+  <li>Commercial School, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+  <li>Drawing School, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+  <li>Employment Bureau, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+  <li>School of Industry, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+  <li>School of Type-setting, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li>
+  <li>Victoria-Stift, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Library, Royal, <a  href="#Page_54">54-58</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lichterfelde, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Lodgings, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li>
+
+<li>L&uuml;bben, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+
+<li>L&uuml;neberg, silver service, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Luther, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a  href="#Page_258">258-260</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Manners, <a  href="#Page_23">23-26</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mansfield, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mausoleum, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Meals, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a  href="#Page_45">45-47</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mendelssohn, Fanny, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mendelssohn, Felix, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mendelssohn family, graves of, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Mint, Imperial, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moabit, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Moltke, General von, <a  href="#Page_127">127-130</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Museums,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Ethnographical, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+  <li>Hohenzollern, <a  href="#Page_118">118-120</a>.</li>
+  <li>Industrial, <a  href="#Page_121">121-123</a>.</li>
+  <li>M&auml;rkische, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</li>
+  <li>National Gallery, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+  <li>New, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.
+  <ul class="nest2">
+    <li>Coins, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li>
+    <li>Engravings, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+    <li>Sculpture, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li>
+    </ul>
+  </li>
+  <li>Old, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+<br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Napoleon I., <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Napoleon III., <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Neander, home of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>grave of, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Neu Ruppin, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Old Schloss, Berlin, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a  href="#Page_196">196-198</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Pankow, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Parishes, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pestalozzi-Froebel-Ha&uuml;s, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>domestic department, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li>
+  <li>Kindergarten, <a  href="#Page_223">223-229</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Pichelsberg, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Postal system, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Potsdam, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>Babelsburg, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+  <li>Friedenskirche, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+  <li>Garrison Church, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span></li>
+  <li>New Palace, <a  href="#Page_203">203-205</a>.</li>
+  <li>Old Schloss, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+  <li>Roman Bath, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+  <li>Sans Souci, <a  href="#Page_201">201-203</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Prince Albert of Prussia, palace of, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prince Frederick Charles, palace of, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Prussian Parliament, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Queen Louise, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Raphael Tapestry, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rath-haus, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Raths-Keller, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Reichstag, <a  href="#Page_125">125-131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rheinsberg, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Richter, <a  href="#Page_127">127-129</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Rohrpost, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Schiller Platz, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Schleiermacher, home of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Schliemann, remains, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sch&ouml;nhausen, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Schools,
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>girls, <a  href="#Page_63">63-74</a>.</li>
+  <li>Real, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Sculpture, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Society, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spandau, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Spreewald, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stairs, <a  href="#Page_10">10-12</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Steglitz, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stendal, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Stoves, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sunday evenings at Dr. St&uuml;ckenberg's, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sunday observance, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Tangerm&uuml;nde, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Taylor, Bayard, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Technological Institute, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tegel, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tempelhof, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Tetzel's indulgence box, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Thiergarten, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>monuments in, <a href="#Page_186">186-188</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Thompson, Rev. J.P., <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>University, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Unter den Linden, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Varzin, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Ventilation, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Virchow, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Waldersee, General Von, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Waldersee, Countess von, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wansee, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li>War Academy, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li>
+
+<li>War Office, park of, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wartburg, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Weddings, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li>West End, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wilhelms Platz, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Windhorst, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Wittenberg, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Women, education of, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.
+  <ul class="nest">
+  <li>regard for, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li>
+  </ul>
+<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Young Men's Christian Association, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.<br /><br /></li>
+
+
+<li>Zinna, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Zo&ouml;logical gardens, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+<div class="tr">
+<p class="cen"><a name="TN" id="TN"></a>Typographical errors corrected in text:</p>
+Page 136: &nbsp;Charlottenberg replaced with Charlottenburg<br />
+Page 267: &nbsp;Babelsberg replaced with Babelsburg<br />
+<br />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's In and Around Berlin, by Minerva Brace Norton
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In and Around Berlin, by Minerva Brace Norton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In and Around Berlin
+
+Author: Minerva Brace Norton
+
+Release Date: June 1, 2007 [EBook #21654]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN AND AROUND BERLIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Jeannie Howse and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
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+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+    | Transcriber's Note:                                       |
+    |                                                           |
+    | Inconsistent hyphenation in the original document has     |
+    | been preserved.                                           |
+    |                                                           |
+    | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this  |
+    | text. For a complete list, please see the end of this     |
+    | document.                                                 |
+    |                                                           |
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+IN AND AROUND BERLIN
+
+
+
+BY
+
+MINERVA BRACE NORTON
+
+
+
+
+
+CHICAGO
+A.C. MCCLURG AND COMPANY
+1889
+
+
+
+
+COPYRIGHT
+BY A.C. MCCLURG AND COMPANY
+A.D. 1889
+
+
+
+
+TO MY HUSBAND,
+
+WHOSE GENEROUS SYMPATHY MADE POSSIBLE THESE PAGES;
+
+To my Countrymen and Countrywomen
+
+WHO HAVE VISITED BERLIN;
+
+TO THOSE WHO HOPE TO GO THERE,
+
+AND TO THE
+
+LARGER NUMBER OF ARMCHAIR TRAVELLERS,
+
+I Dedicate this Book.
+
+M.B.N.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAP.                                                        PAGE
+   I. FIRST IMPRESSIONS                                         9
+
+  II. FAMILY AND SOCIAL LIFE                                   20
+
+ III. EDUCATION                                                51
+
+  IV. CHURCHES                                                 79
+
+   V. MUSEUMS                                                 103
+
+  VI. THE GERMAN REICHSTAG AND THE PRUSSIAN PARLIAMENT        125
+
+ VII. PROMINENT PERSONAGES                                    133
+
+VIII. THE EMPEROR'S NINETIETH BIRTHDAY                        159
+
+  IX. STREETS, PARKS, CEMETERIES, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS        179
+
+   X. PALACES                                                 195
+
+  XI. THE HOMES OF THE HUMBOLDTS                              209
+
+ XII. PHILANTHROPIC WORK                                      221
+
+XIII. AROUND BERLIN                                           249
+
+
+
+
+IN AND AROUND BERLIN.
+
+
+I.
+
+FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
+
+
+It was seven o'clock of a gray November morning when we arrived in
+Berlin for our first residence abroad. The approach to the city
+reminded us of the newer parts of New York, and we found that the
+population was about the same. But here the resemblance ceases. New
+York is the metropolis of a great nation,--the heart whence arterial
+supplies go forth, and to which all returning channels converge; the
+cosmopolitan centre of a New World. Berlin is the increasingly
+important capital of the German Empire,--growing rapidly, but still
+the royal impersonation of Prussia and the Hohenzollerns; seated in
+something of mediaeval costume and quiet beside the river Spree; as
+content to cast a satisfied glance backward to Frederick the Great and
+the Electors of Brandenburg as to look forward to imperial supremacy
+among the Great Powers, and the championship of continental Protestant
+Europe.
+
+There is one continuous thread woven through the old history and the
+new, and this appeared in the first hour of our stay. Everywhere on
+the streets the one thing most strange to our American eyes was the
+number of striking military uniforms mingled with the more sober garb
+of civilians. Officers of fine form and gentlemanly bearing, in
+uniforms of dark blue with scarlet trimmings and long, dragging,
+rattling swords, were commanding the evolutions of infantry in the
+main streets; while frequent glimpses of gold-laced light blue or
+scarlet jackets or of plumed and helmeted hussars animated the scene
+on the crowded sidewalks. Germany is, as it has been from the
+beginning, a military power.
+
+We drove first to the home of an American friend. We were not prepared
+for the four long flights of stairs up which we were directed by the
+porter on the ground floor. "What reverses of fortune have come to
+A.," thought we, "that she lives in an attic!" The tenement was a good
+one, to be sure, when we found it,--large and lofty apartments with
+many windows, commanding a fine view. But to one unused to many
+stairs, and weakened by continuous illness in a long sea-voyage, the
+exhaustion of that first ascent was something to be remembered. It
+was, however, but the precursor of hundreds of similar feats, which
+our residence involved, as nearly all families live up several flights
+of stairs. Only once did we see an elevator in Germany. In the elegant
+hotel known as the Kaiserhof, the sojourning-place of princes,
+diplomatists, and statesmen, we took our seats in a commodious
+elevator, rejoiced at the thought of such an American way of getting
+upstairs. It was fully five minutes before we reached the moderate
+elevation of the corridor on which our rooms opened; the liveried and
+intelligent official in charge, evidently a personage of importance,
+meanwhile replying to our queries and enjoying our evident surprise at
+the slow motion, until we forgot our annoyance in the interest of the
+conversation which ensued before we reached our destination. Once I
+was toiling up the four flights which led to the residence of a
+cultivated German lady, in company with the hostess. "Oh," I said
+breathlessly, "would there were elevators in Germany!"
+
+"Yes," courteously responded the lady; adding, with a resigned sigh,
+the conclusive words which indicated contentment with her lot, "but it
+is not ze custom."
+
+It was late in the season, and our lodgings were not engaged in
+advance. Americans in increasing numbers make Berlin a winter
+residence, and by October the most desirable _pensions_ generally have
+their rooms engaged. By the kind offices of our friend, our famishing
+party were provided with the rolls and coffee which compose the
+continental breakfast, and a fortunate entrance was, after much
+seeking, obtained for us to a most desirable boarding-house. Our own
+apartment was a large corner room, with immense windows looking north
+and east, and, like nearly all rooms in Berlin houses, connected by
+double doors with the apartments on either side. A fire was built
+before we took possession, but it was two days before we ceased to
+shiver. We looked for the stove of which we had heard. More than one
+of the five senses were called into requisition to determine which
+article of furniture was entitled to that designation. Across one
+corner of the room stood a tall white monument composed of glazed
+tiles laid in mortar, built into the room as a chimney might have
+been, with a hidden flue in the rear connecting it with the wall. A
+drab cornice and plaster ornaments of the same color set off the four
+or five feet above the mantel which surrounded it, and a brass door,
+about ten inches by twelve, was in the middle front of the part below.
+On the mantel were disposed sundry ornaments, including vases of dried
+grasses, and the hand could always be held upon the tiles against
+which they stood. In a small fireplace within this unique mass of
+tiles and mortar, the housemaid would place a dozen pieces of
+coal-cake once or at most twice a day, and after allowing a few
+minutes for the kindling to set it aglow, would close and lock the
+triple door, and the fire was made for twenty-four hours. In two or
+three hours after the lighting of the fire, the temperature of the
+room, if other conditions were favorable, might be slightly raised. To
+raise it five to ten degrees would require from six to ten hours.
+
+In response to our request to the landlady for an addition of cold
+meat or steak to the coffee and rolls of the breakfast, and for more
+warmth in the room, accompanied by an expression of willingness to
+make additional payment for the same, the reply, given in a courteous
+manner, was that Americans lived in rooms much too warm, and ate too
+much meat, and that it would be for their health in Germany to conform
+to the German customs. However, some spasmodic efforts were made, for
+a season, to comply with the requests, which before long were wholly
+discontinued; and the strangers learned the wisdom of accommodating
+themselves "in Rome" to the ways of the Romans. This, however, was not
+accomplished without continued suffering. The meagre "first
+breakfast," served about half-past eight o'clock, was supplemented by
+a "second breakfast" of a cup of chocolate or beef tea, at about
+eleven, to those who were then in the house and made known their
+desire for it. But the days were short. Berlin is about six hundred
+miles nearer the north pole than New York, in the latitude of Labrador
+and the southern part of Hudson's Bay. The climate is milder only
+because the Gulf Stream kindly sends its warmth over all Europe,
+which lies in much higher latitudes than we are wont to think.
+Consequently the days in winter are much shorter than ours, as in
+summer they are longer. All the mid-winter daylight of Berlin is
+between the hours of eight A.M. and four P.M. With dinner at two
+o'clock, from which we rose about three, there was too little light
+remaining for visits to museums and other places of interest, so that
+the chief sightseeing of the day must be put into the hours between
+nine and two o'clock, often far from residence or restaurants; so the
+work of the day must be done on insufficient food, and the prevailing
+physical sensation was that of being an animated empty cask. We thus
+reached a settled conviction that however well the continental
+breakfast may serve the needs of Germans, with their slow ways of
+working, and their heavy suppers of sausage, black bread, and beer,
+late at night, an American home for Americans temporarily in Berlin is
+a consummation much to be wished.
+
+It is almost with a feeling of despair that many a woman first unpacks
+her trunk in the Berlin apartment which, according to general custom,
+is to serve her for sleeping-room, breakfast-room, study, and
+reception-room. In a lengthened sojourn, in hotels, _pensions_, and
+private residences, I never saw a closet opening from such an
+apartment. Indeed, there were, in the houses I visited, no closets of
+any kind; unless an unlighted, unventilated cubic space in the middle
+of the house or near the kitchen--the upper half often devoted to
+sleeping room for domestics, and the lower to a general rendezvous of
+odds and ends--might be dignified with that name. A statement which I
+once ventured in conversation, as to the closets opening from nearly
+every room of an American house, was received with a look of
+incredulity and wonder. Neither did I see a real bureau in Berlin. A
+poor substitute was a portable piece of furniture, often quite
+ornamental, which opened by doors, exposing all the shelves whenever
+an article on any one of them was wanted. Here must be kept bonnets,
+hats, gloves, ribbons, laces, underwear, and all the thousand
+accumulations of the toilet; while a cramped "wardrobe" was the
+receptacle of shoes, cloaks, and dresses, hung perhaps three or four
+or five deep on the half-dozen wooden pegs within. Bathrooms were the
+rare exceptions. As a rule, bathing must be done with a sponge and
+cold water, in one's private apartment, where are no faucets, drains,
+or set bowls, but the ordinary wash-bowl, pitcher, and jar. Evidently
+German civilization does not rate the bath very high among the
+comforts of life.
+
+An essential part of the furniture in the kind of apartment I am
+describing, is a screen to stand before each bed and wash-stand. The
+beds are invariably single, two or more being placed in a room when
+needed, the screens, by day, transforming the room into a parlor.
+There are no carpets. On the oiled or painted wooden floors rugs are
+placed before the beds, before the sofa, and under the table which
+always stands before it. One luxury is seldom wanting,--a good
+writing-desk, with pens and ink ready for use. It is no trouble to a
+German hostess to increase or diminish the number of beds in a room,
+the narrow bedsteads being carried with ease through the double doors,
+from room to room, as convenience requires.
+
+Pictures are on the walls,--not often remarkable as works of art, but
+most frequently stimulants to love of country,--portraits of the
+Kaiser and the Crown Prince, and battle scenes in which glory is
+reflected on the Prussian arms. Every window is double; the two outer
+vertical halves opening on hinges outward, and the inner opening in
+the same manner into the room. Graceful lace drapery is the rule, over
+plain cotton hangings or Venetian blinds.
+
+The arrangement of the bedding is peculiar. Over a set of wire springs
+is laid the mattress, in a closely fitting white case, buttoned, tied,
+or laced together at one end. This case takes the place of an under
+sheet. The feather pillow is in a plain slip of white cotton,
+similarly fastened. Over the whole a blanket or comfortable is laid,
+securely enfolded in another white case, which also serves instead of
+an upper sheet. Over this is the feather bed, usually encased in
+colored print, sometimes of bright colors. Under this one always
+sleeps. Over the bed, from low head-board to foot-board, is stretched
+by day the uppermost covering. Ours was of maroon cotton flannel,
+bordered in front by a flounce intended to be ornamental. The custom
+is to furnish clean cases and pillow-slips once a month, and it is
+difficult to secure more frequent changes of bed-linen.
+
+Ventilation is something of which the Germans are particularly afraid.
+The impure air of schools, halls, churches, and other places of
+assemblage is dreadful, and a draught is regarded as the messenger of
+death. When our landlady found that we were in the habit of sleeping
+with our windows open, most emphatic remonstrance was made, with the
+assurance that this would never do in Berlin. However, like the
+drinking of water, against which also warnings are customary, the
+breathing of fresh air was to us followed by no harmful results.
+
+These differences in habits and customs of household life, like the
+sounds of a strange language, affect the traveller unpleasantly at
+first. But differences in national customs are natural and inevitable,
+and one gradually becomes accustomed to them, and enabled to live a
+happy life in spite of them, as appreciation grows when acquaintance
+has made one familiar with many interesting and excellent aspects of
+existence here.
+
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+FAMILY AND SOCIAL LIFE.
+
+
+Holidays and birthdays are more scrupulously and formally observed in
+Germany than with us. There are cakes and lighted candles and flowers
+for the one whose birthday makes him for the time the most important
+personage in the family, and who sits in holiday dress in the
+reception-room, to receive the calls and congratulations of friends.
+Those who cannot call send letters and presents, which are displayed,
+with those received from the family, on a table devoted to the
+purpose; and the array is often quite extensive. The presents are
+seldom extravagant, consisting largely of the ornamental handiwork of
+friends and of useful articles of clothing for common use.
+
+A genuine German family festival on Christmas eve is a pleasant thing
+to see. We accepted with pleasure the invitation of Frau B---- and her
+family, to be present at theirs. In a large _salon_ adjoining that
+where the table was laid for supper, was another long table spread
+with a white cloth. Toward the farther end of the table stood a tall
+Christmas-tree, decked with various simple ornaments; and the candles
+on it were lighted with a little ceremony, the chubby granddaughter of
+three years pointing her bare arm and uplifted forefinger to the tree,
+and reciting a short poem appropriate to the occasion, as we entered
+the room, about half-past seven o'clock. Then the beautiful and
+winning child found her toys, her lovely wax doll and its cradle, and
+another doll of rubber, small and homely, on which, after the fashion
+of little mothers, she imprinted her most affectionate kisses.
+Suddenly the room was radiant with a contagious happiness. "The little
+Fraeulein," daughter of the hostess, just engaged by cable to a
+gentleman in America, had found his picture, wreathed with fresh and
+fragrant rosebuds, among her presents; and the smiles and blushes
+chased each other over her face, as the engagement was thus announced
+by her mother to the assembled guests. She answered her
+congratulations by more blushes and smiles, laying her hand on her
+heart, and saying with true German frankness, "Oh, I am so happy!" No
+presents hung on the tree, but those intended for each person were in
+a group beside a plate of cakes and bonbons, with a card bearing the
+name. Each of the company found his own, delicately assisted by the
+hostess and her daughters. Then the servants were called in, to find
+their presents on side tables, to receive and express good wishes and
+thanks, and to join in the general joy of the household over the
+engagement. After supper in the dining-room, we talked awhile, there
+was music from the piano, then the married daughter and her family
+withdrew with kind "good-nights;" and before a late hour all the other
+guests had done the same, not, however, until the national airs of
+America and of Scotland had been sung by all present, in honor of the
+guests from these countries.
+
+Private hospitality is kind and open, but so far as our observation
+went, conducted within certain specified limits seldom overstepped.
+Order of precedence is carefully observed, and more honor is shown to
+age than with us. The best seat in the drawing-room is the sofa. A
+single guest would never be offered any other place, and among a
+number the eldest or the most honored would be invariably conducted
+there. Hence no one would venture to take this place of honor
+uninvited. Sometimes one is secretly glad of not being invited to
+crowd behind the table which usually stands, covered with a spread,
+inconveniently close before the sofa, and of having instead a chair,
+with a better support for the back.
+
+One is expected to bow to the hostess and to each guest on coming to
+the table, and also on leaving it. Odd as this seems at first, it soon
+becomes a habit rather pleasant than burdensome, and one grows
+insensibly to admire the outward politeness of this German custom.
+Greetings and farewells are more ceremonious, even between intimate
+friends, than with us; and to omit a ceremonious leave-taking or to
+substitute a light bow and "good day" would not make a pleasant
+impression on a German hostess. Americans, especially young ladies,
+are much criticised for their independence and lack of courtesy. A
+German friend told me that a young American lady who had formerly
+been an inmate of her family called to bid her good-by before leaving
+Berlin. "I was amazed," she said, "at such politeness." It is not
+alone in matters of courtesy that young American ladies shock the
+Germans. Though a young lady has more freedom in Germany than in
+France and Italy, she is expected to conform carefully to the custom
+of going out in the evening or travelling only in company with a
+relative if a gentleman, or with an older lady. It is true that
+American girls are forgiven some liberties which no German girl would
+think of taking, on the ground of American customs; and a careful,
+well-bred young lady, from our side the water will seldom fall into
+serious trouble if she observes the rule of not going out unattended.
+But young ladies from America in Europe hold largely the honor of
+their country in their hands, and they ought to recognize this
+responsibility.
+
+German politeness has also a reverse side. Perhaps the general absence
+of higher education among German women leaves them an especial prey to
+idle curiosity and gossip. Not only is one questioned freely as to the
+cost of any article of dress by comparative strangers, but questions
+as to one's family and private affairs are common, almost customary.
+Conversation which does not turn upon such things, or on others
+equally trivial and irrelevant, is the exception. The recital on their
+part, however, of personal and family history has a charming
+good-nature and simplicity, and often a touch of the homely and
+pathetic, which reach the heart of the listener. There were few tables
+where the conversation was not too loud for our comfort. No one seemed
+particularly to care for quiet talk with his neighbor, but the
+conversation at a long table was a rattling sharpshooting or a heavy
+cannonade from one end to the other, mingled with hearty laughter,
+while "Attic salt" was sparing. Table-manners, even among otherwise
+charming people, were often shocking to the taste of Americans. What
+we should call the first principles of good-breeding were freely
+contravened. The nicety and daintiness which in some favored American
+and English homes make of the family board a visible and tangible
+poem, were very rare in our German experience. And yet there are
+charming German tables and well-bred German ladies and gentlemen. One
+custom which we have been taught to regard as vulgar and profane is
+that of constantly using the names of the Deity by way of exclamation
+and emphasis in the most ordinary conversation. Being on sufficiently
+intimate terms with a German lady, we one day ventured to inquire
+deprecatingly about this habit. "Everybody does it," was her candid
+reply; and this was the only reason we ever heard.
+
+"George Eliot" long ago complained of the inconvenience of
+perambulating Berlin streets, where you are pushed off the sidewalks
+and are in constant danger of involuntary surgical experience through
+contact with the military swords that clank and clatter in the crowd.
+There is still room for improvement in this respect. The owners of
+sabres often seem to take it for granted that the right of way belongs
+first of all to them and their weapons, and if any one is thus
+inconvenienced that is the business of the unlucky party. The streets
+and sidewalks are much wider and less crowded than those in Boston;
+but a collision on a Boston sidewalk is rare, while a half-dozen rude
+ones in an hour is a daily expectation in Berlin. A Berlin pedestrian
+"to the manner born," in blind momentum and disregard of all
+obstacles, has no equal in our experience.
+
+It was told me that if you are run over by the swiftly driven horses
+in the streets, you must pay a fine for obstructing the way.
+Remembering that many regulations are relics of the times when laws
+were made for the good of the aristocracy who ride, and not for the
+vulgar crowd who walk, we did not try the experiment. Mounted
+policemen are to be seen, like equestrian statues, at the intersection
+of the more crowded thoroughfares, as Unter den Linden and Friedrich
+Strasse, and with a little care there is seldom need of delay in
+crossing. I heard of one poor cab-driver who was fined and cast into
+prison for injuring a lady who suddenly changed her mind and took a
+new tack while just in front of his horses. Regard for foot-passengers
+seems thus to have an existence in some cases.
+
+Regard for women is not a thing to which German men are trained. A
+gentleman may not carry a small parcel through the street, but his
+delicate wife may take a heavier one to save the disgrace of her
+husband's bearing it. Among the middle classes, those couples who go
+out for a walk with the baby-carriage invariably regard the management
+of it as the wife's privilege, leaving to the father the custody of
+his pipe or cigar alone. If the baby is to be carried in arms, it is
+always the wife, not the husband, who bears the burden. Women in the
+humbler classes wear no bonnets in the street, although sometimes in
+cold weather they tie a little shawl or a handkerchief about the head.
+Their usual habit is, however, to go out in all weathers with the head
+as unprotected as the face, even for long distances. A maid follows
+her mistress to market, with a basket on her arm, often covered with
+an embroidered cloth, in which are placed the purchases of the careful
+housemother.
+
+A huckster is frequently accompanied by a dog, both being harnessed to
+the little cart which holds the wares. Often the man will be free,
+while the woman and the dog side by side drag the cart to which they
+are tied, the woman usually knitting even when the air is cold enough
+to benumb her fingers. Women knit constantly in the streets about
+their other work, whether bowed down under huge bundles of fagots on
+their backs, serving milk at the houses, or doing many other things
+with which we should regard knitting as incompatible.
+
+The best society is like the court, in being exclusive. It is
+difficult for strangers, in Germany as in America, easily to obtain
+desirable acquaintance, except by means of letters of introduction,
+and the friendship which comes with time and natural selection.
+Glimpses of home-life in cultivated circles are accordingly to be
+highly valued.
+
+One delightful visit with supper, to which we were invited, began
+about six o'clock. That we might have more in common, the hostess, who
+herself spoke English with much intelligence, had invited a German
+lady who had resided in Boston to meet us. We were seated on the sofa
+and shown some of the many art treasures in the way of fine engravings
+which the home contained, the fancy-work of our hostess--a German lady
+seems never to be without it--lying neglected as the conversation rose
+in interest. Supper was served between eight and nine o'clock, at a
+round table accommodating the hostess and her three guests. Delicious
+tea, made from a burnished brass teakettle over an alcohol lamp on a
+stand beside the hostess, with white and black bread, five kinds of
+sausage, cold meat, and pickled fish, composed the first course. There
+was a second, composed of little cakes and apples.
+
+Dinner, in our experience, was almost invariably good. First course,
+always soup and bread. Second, unless fish were served, some kind of
+meat, a variety of vegetables, among which green beans, spinach, and
+varieties of cabbage delicately cooked were prominent. This course was
+usually accompanied by cooked or preserved fruit. Third course,
+various puddings and cakes, all good, some delicious; never any pie.
+The luxury of dessert was sometimes omitted. It is not common in
+German families, except those frequented by American guests. Radishes
+and cheese form an extra course at some suppers. In hotels, of course,
+the simple family dinner of three or four courses is replaced by a
+more elaborate feast of many courses.
+
+The anniversaries of the death of friends are remembered by dressing
+in black, burning candles before their portraits, and visiting their
+graves. There is also one day in spring which is celebrated as a kind
+of combination of All Saints Day and Decoration Day, when every one
+visits the cemeteries, leaving flowers and wreaths in memory of the
+loved and lost. Funeral services are held, both at the homes and in
+the churches, and are often accompanied by very impressive and
+majestic music. In at least one of the cemeteries there is a large and
+scientifically arranged crematory. A recent judicial decision,
+however, forbids cremation within the municipal jurisdiction.
+
+Sundays, as is well known, are not observed in Germany as in England
+and Scotland. But in the parts of Berlin which we were accustomed to
+see on that day, including two miles or more between our residence and
+the central part of the city, the general sobriety and orderly
+appearance would compare favorably with that in the better parts of
+many American cities. We were asked on our first Sunday at the
+dinner-table if we would like to have seats secured for us at the
+opera that evening. Operatic performances and concerts are among the
+better entertainments offered on Sunday evenings. The laws are strict,
+however, regarding quiet in the streets and the closing of places of
+business until after Sunday morning service in the churches. In the
+finest residence portions of some American cities we have been
+frequently disturbed by the street-cries of hucksters during divine
+service on Sunday mornings, while the ear-piercing shouts of newspaper
+venders disturb all the peace of the early morning hours. Dime
+museums and other places flaunt their attractions in the faces of the
+crowd who gather at their doors, and many places of business seem to
+be always open. It was not our experience to see or hear anything like
+this in Germany. Even the law of despotic power is better than none at
+all,--often far better than enlightened law not enforced. Policemen in
+the streets of Berlin make short work with the luckless tradesman who
+leaves his blinds or doors open on Sunday before two o'clock P.M. Of
+course restaurants and places of food supply are open. To all outward
+appearance Berlin was a fairly well-ordered city on Sundays. One in
+search of evil, however, could doubtless find it, here as elsewhere.
+
+Sunday afternoon is a favorite time for calls and family visits; and
+in the pleasant weather the genuine love for out-door life, which
+seems dormant in winter, blossoms out luxuriantly. Parents take their
+whole families to the numerous gardens in the suburbs for picnics on
+Sundays and the frequent holidays. Sunday hours at home are spent by
+most German ladies with the inevitable crochet-work or knitting,--even
+the most devout seeing no harm in this, nor in their little Sunday
+evening parties, with games and music.
+
+One day in the year--Good Friday--is observed as scrupulously as was
+ever a Puritan Sunday. The organic Protestant Church of Germany--a
+union of the Lutheran and Reformed churches,--has small affiliation
+with the Church of Rome; but some observances which we have been
+accustomed to associate with so-called Catholicism have lingered with
+Protestantism in Germany. Good Friday was a solemn day in the family
+where we had our home. Bach's music, brought to light after a hundred
+years of deep obscurity by Felix Mendelssohn, and rendered, though at
+first with much opposition from musicians of the old school, in the
+Sing Akademie of Berlin, now lends every year, on the eve of Good
+Friday, its incomparable _Passion-Musik_ to the devotion of the
+occasion. "There are many things I must miss," said a cultivated
+German to me, "but the _Passion-Musik_ on the eve of Good
+Friday,--never! It makes me better. I cannot do without it." We found
+this music, at the time of which we speak, an occasion to be ever
+memorable for its wonderful power and pathos. The next morning we did
+not attend the service in the cathedral, where we wished to go,
+knowing that the crowd would be too great for comfort. On returning to
+our room from another service, a beautiful arrangement of cut flowers
+on the table greeted our senses as we opened the door. It was the
+thoughtful, affectionate, and devout offering of our hostess in
+reverent memory of the day. After dinner we entered the private parlor
+of the family for a friendly call and to express our thanks. No
+suggestion of knitting or fancy-work was to be seen. The hostess and
+her daughters, soberly dressed, were reading devotional books. "Do you
+not go out this afternoon?" I inquired. "No, one cannot go out," was
+the reply, indicating probably both lack of disposition and of places
+open for entertainment. Later, I ventured out for a walk. Only here
+and there could a team be seen, and the throng of pedestrians usually
+on the sidewalks in a bright spring afternoon seemed to have deserted
+the busy streets, in which comparative silence reigned.
+
+"I am glad there is here _one_ sabbath in the year," was our inward
+comment, "even though it falls on a Friday." Easter was a day of
+gladness in the churches, though elaborate adornments of flowers and
+new spring bonnets were not so prominent as in American cities. The
+respectable church communicant, even if he goes to church on no other
+day in the year, usually takes the communion at Easter.
+
+Easter Monday was one great gala-day. All Berlin seemed to be in the
+streets in holiday attire; and, to our eyes, no other day ever showed
+such universal gladness reflected in the faces and demeanor of the
+people. "Prayer Day," answering somewhat to the original New England
+Fast Day, was solemnly observed in May; and the holidays of
+Whitsuntide dress every house and market-stall and milk-cart with
+green boughs, and crowd the railways and the steamers with throngs of
+pleasure-seekers.
+
+The few weeks before Easter is a favorite season for weddings, and
+these are invariably celebrated in church. Even people in moderate
+circumstances make much display at the church ceremony, with or
+without an additional celebration at home. We were invited to one at
+the Garrison Church, which the soldiers attend, and where most of the
+pews on the main floor are held by officers and their families. We
+entered the church fifteen minutes before the hour appointed,--four
+o'clock. An elderly usher in a fine suit, with swallow-tail coat and a
+decoration on his breast, politely gave us liberty to choose our
+seats, as the invitations were not numerous and the church is large. A
+few persons, mostly ladies, were there before us, and had already
+taken the best seats,--those running lengthwise of the church, and
+facing a wide central aisle. We joined them, and while waiting felt
+more at liberty to inspect the church than at the service on a
+previous Sunday. The Grecian interior was undecorated, except that a
+mass of green filled the space to the right and left of the altar,
+beginning on each side with tall oleanders succeeded by laurels and
+other evergreens, growing gradually less in height, until they reached
+the pews in the side aisles. A rich altar-cloth of purple velvet,
+embroidered with gold, fell below the crucifix and the massive candles
+on either side, which are always seen in the Lutheran churches; and in
+the aisle below the chancel stood a square altar, covered with another
+spread of purple velvet, heavy with gold fringe and embroidery. Two
+chairs were side by side just in front of the high altar, and facing
+it. Six chairs facing the audience were on the platform on each side
+of the altar, directly in front of the mass of green I have described.
+Below the steps to the chancel about twenty chairs were placed on each
+side of the central aisle, and facing the altar. In each chair was a
+printed slip containing a hymn to be sung after the ceremony. About
+four o'clock a maid came in with the little granddaughter who on
+Christmas eve had spoken the poem at the lighting of the family
+Christmas-tree. When they were seated, the handsome little face, with
+its white bonnet and cloak, was seen in a side pew very near the
+altar. It seemed so like a dream,--the announcement of the engagement
+of "the little Fraeulein" at that Christmas party; and now the time has
+come when the bride is to belong to her mother and her home no more!
+
+Ladies had long ceased looking impatiently at their watches, and were
+perhaps busy with their thoughts, as I was, when from the "mittel"
+door Court-preacher Frommel entered, his long white hair thrown back,
+and crossed through the transverse aisle to the robing-room opposite.
+Soon a signal given by an usher to the organist was the prelude to
+solemn music, which filled the church; and a stout clerical
+assistant, with a book under his arm, appeared at the rear door. Then
+Pastor Frommel, in his black robe and simple white muslin bands, took
+his place before the high altar and bowed in prayer, the two immense
+candles in tall candlesticks on either side the altar, now lighted,
+throwing their radiance on his silver hair. Meantime the bridal
+procession slowly moved down the side aisle toward the middle of the
+church, turned at the transverse aisle, crossed to the centre, turned
+again, now toward the altar, passing to it up the central aisle. The
+clerical personage with the service-book under his arm passed first.
+Then came the bride on the arm of the groom. There were a few
+orange-buds hidden here and there in the fluffy mass of her front
+hair; a veil of tulle was fastened behind them in a gathered coronet,
+and fell down over the folds of her white silk dress, whose train
+swept along the aisle to the length of a yard and a half. I saw no
+ornaments, save a wreath below the high, full, white ruche at the
+throat, perhaps of geranium leaves, and a full bouquet of pink
+rosebuds in the right hand. From my glance at the train of the bridal
+dress, I looked up to see six bridesmaids coming after, each on the
+arm of a groomsman. The first bridesmaid was a lovely sister of the
+bride, in a dress of cream-white silk without train, pink flowers in
+her hair, and carrying a large bouquet of full-blown cream and crimson
+roses. The second bridesmaid wore a dress of silk,--not ecru and not
+palest olive, but a shade between the two,--with a perfectly fitting
+corsage, likewise _decollete_, and for ornaments a necklace of large
+pearls, a bouquet, and flowers in her hair. The first groomsman was in
+civilian's dress; but the second was in all the glory of full
+regimentals, with scarlet trimmings and showy buttons. The third
+bridesmaid wore pink silk, with a bouquet at the centre of the
+heart-shaped corsage; but unlike the others, she had no flowers in her
+hair. Of the following bridesmaids, one wore pink silk of a paler
+shade, one was in lemon-color, and the last in palest mauve, with
+trimmings of garnet velvet. The bridesmaids filed to the right, and
+the groomsmen to the left, as they reached the altar, before which
+Pastor Frommel now stood. As the bride and groom approached, they
+remained a moment standing with bowed heads in silent prayer, as the
+custom is on entering a German church, and then took the two chairs
+which had been placed for them, facing the minister. I had been struck
+by the beauty of the widowed mother, as she followed the bridesmaids,
+leaning on the arm of her brother,--a fine-looking, dignified officer
+from Potsdam, in full uniform, with broad silver epaulettes. The black
+hair of the mother--dressed high and gracefully on the crown of her
+uncovered head, set off by a fine white marguerite and a yellow
+one--and her dark eyes and complexion were in strong contrast to the
+fair hair and light German complexion of the younger ladies. She was
+in a dress of garnet silk, fitting perfectly her tall and graceful
+form. The bridesmaids took the six chairs on the right of the altar,
+facing the audience and before the mass of greenery, which made an
+effective background for so much youth, beauty, and elegance; and the
+groomsmen took the corresponding chairs on the left. The mother and
+uncle parted at the steps below the altar, she taking the first chair
+on the right, and he on the left, with the central aisle between them.
+Next came two elderly ladies, in dark silk with long trains, with
+uncovered and ornamented hair, and white shoulder-shawls of silk or
+wool, each with a gentleman; and they were seated to the right and
+left respectively. The bride's eldest married sister came next, in a
+splendid robe of blue satin, with a long train, looking very young and
+_distingue_. She and her husband filed to the right and left, as the
+others had done. The second married sister of the bride followed, in a
+similar dress of pink satin; and her very handsome husband, in his
+full military suit, was a decided addition to the courtly-looking
+assemblage. These five ladies filled the front row of chairs on one
+side, as did the gentlemen accompanying them on the other side. Eight
+other ladies, all in full dress,--one wearing an ermine
+cape,--followed, each with a gentleman; and these were seated in the
+second row.
+
+When for a few brief moments I first caught sight of all this
+elegance, I felt as though I were in a dream; then came a rush of
+emotion, because I loved the fair young bride, and was touched at the
+thought of the solemn place in which she stood,--forsaking home and
+friends and native land to go to what seems to these home-dwelling
+Germans a far, strange country, all for the sake of a young man whom a
+year ago she had never seen. I was as sorry for the mother, too, as I
+could be for one so handsome and so dignified. How fast one feels and
+thinks in such a time! Before the hush which followed the procession
+and the temporary change while all were finding their appropriate
+seats, the feeling of sympathy had given place to one of stimulated
+imagination, and this dim old soldiers' church, with the majestic
+music filling all its spaces, seemed merely the setting for some scene
+at a royal court in the olden time, where beauty and brilliance and
+grandeur were a matter of course.
+
+The music ceased, all present rose, while Pastor Frommel read a brief
+service from the book, and said "Amen." Then we sat down again, and
+the pastor preached the wedding sermon, which we were told is a matter
+of course at a German marriage. The sermon over, the bride and groom
+stood up before him, and he looked down with a fatherly glance upon
+the bride whom he took into his own house to prepare for confirmation
+only a few short years ago, and whom he is now to send with his
+marriage benediction across the sea. In a sweet, calm voice he
+addressed them; then the bride hands her bouquet to her sister
+bridesmaid sitting near, and removes her own glove; the groom takes
+from his pocket a ring, and gives it to the minister, who places it on
+the bride's finger, speaking a few solemn sentences, of which only the
+last reaches my ears: "What God hath joined together, let not man put
+asunder." For the first time in the service, the bride and groom kneel
+before him who bends over them; then follows a prayer, and it is
+finished. They rise, and are seated an instant; then rise again as the
+pastor gives his hand in congratulation to the groom; and when he
+places his hand with a few words in that of the bride, she bends low
+over it and kisses it in a pathetic farewell. The pastor goes first.
+The bride and groom bow in silent devotion before the altar until the
+time seems a little long, then turn and come down the aisle, followed
+by their retinue as they went in, but twain no more. The mother wiped
+away a tear quietly once or twice during the service, the unmarried
+sister bridesmaid looked as sweet and calm as always she does at home,
+but the bride, silently taking farewell of friends and native land,
+was deeply moved. No one had any voice for the printed hymn, and the
+organ alone supplied its music. The newly married couple went in the
+first carriage which rolled homewards, the others followed without
+observing precedence, and a small and quiet home reception closed the
+day.
+
+In a family where we found a home we were once asked, with other
+temporary residents, to attend a small evening gathering. At the usual
+hour of half-past eight we were led out to supper by the hostess. The
+table was very handsome with its fine linen and an elaborately
+embroidered lunch cloth extending through the whole length of a board
+at which fourteen were seated. I counted ten tall wine bottles, and at
+every plate except two, wine-glasses were standing. Several of the
+European ladies drank off three or four glasses as they might have
+done so much water. "You are temperance?" said a young lady from
+Stockholm at my left, in her broken English. I said, Yes; and on
+inquiry found she knew something of the great temperance movement in
+her own country, of which she told me over her wine. She said she
+thought a glass would do me good. I said, "No, it would flush my face
+and do me harm;" to which, without any intention of discourtesy, she
+replied simply, "I do not believe it." Five plates of various sizes
+were piled before each individual. The smallest was of glass, for
+preserved fruit and sweet pickles, four kinds of which were passed,
+all to be deposited, if one partook of all, on the same plate. The
+other plates and the whole service were of beautiful old Berlin china,
+white, with a line of dark blue and another of gilt around the edge of
+each piece, and the monogram of the grandmother to whom it originally
+belonged in the centre of each piece in blue letters. The first course
+was excellent chicken broth, served to each guest in a china cup, with
+a roll. The second course was cold roast beef and hot potatoes, served
+in three different ways, with rolls and plenty of wine. The third
+course was offered to me first by a handsome serving-maid lately from
+the country, with a clear face, bright dark eyes, dark hair, and rosy
+cheeks. Admiring her, I cast only a brief and doubtful glance on the
+large plate she bore, at one side of which were two lifelike sheep
+three or four inches high, with little red ribbons around their necks
+and standing in the midst of greenery. "This is confectionery," I
+thought, "and these are sugar sheep for ornament." Disposed on other
+parts of the plate were sundry rounds and triangles which looked
+peculiar; but my custom was, at German tables, "to prove all things"
+and "hold fast that which is good." So I decided on a creamy-looking
+segment, covered with silver-paper, and showing at the sides a
+half-inch thickness of what I hoped was custard-cake. The plate was
+next passed to a lady at my right, who cut a little piece off a white
+substance; and I thought, "She has ice-cream." Before I had touched my
+portion, a suspicious odor diverted my attention from the
+conversation. I found that the course was cheese and radishes, that my
+neighbor had "Dutch cheese," that the sheep were the butter and I had
+none for my roll, and that I had possessed myself of perhaps the whole
+of one variety of European cheese in tin-foil, the peculiar aroma of
+which was anything but agreeable to my cheese-hating sense. I begged a
+German Fraeulein who sat near and who was intensely enjoying the
+situation to relieve me, when she kindly took about one third of my
+delicacy, leaving the rest in solitary state until the end of that
+course. Fortunately, the non-winedrinkers were offered a cup of tea
+just here, and I ate my roll with it in thankfulness. My American
+friend laughingly made a remark to her German neighbor,--a tall and
+dignified lady, but very vivacious. She turned her head, saying in
+hesitating English, "Speak on this side; I am _dumb_ in that ear."
+Meanwhile the conversation, not as at American tables a low hum, but
+rather the rattle of artillery, fires away, across the table, along
+its whole length, anywhere and everywhere, much sounding, little
+meaning, amid infinite ado of demonstration and gesticulation. The
+next course was the nearest approach to pie I saw at any German
+table,--_apfeltochter_,--a browned and frosted crust, nearly eighteen
+inches in diameter, between the parts of which was cooked and
+sweetened apple.
+
+I noted the different nationalities at the table,--the mother and her
+daughters, Germans of the Germans; a buxom young girl from the
+country, a fine singer; the tall German, and the young Swedish lady of
+whom I have spoken; another Swedish lady from Gothenburg, tall, very
+dignified, with gray eyes and dark hair, an exquisite singer. Then
+there was Herr G----, also from Sweden, and Fraeulein von K----, a
+young Polish lady, with striking black eyes and hair and a laughing
+face. Other guests were two Norwegian gentlemen. One of them, tall,
+dark, and with the dress and bearing of a gentleman, said to my
+American friend, "Yes, I speak English _very well_" which we found to
+be the case. As I had mentally completed this summary, my friend said
+to me in a low "aside," "The young lady at your left is a
+free-thinker, the Polish lady is a Roman Catholic, Herr G----is a Jew;
+the rest Lutherans, except you and me." And one of us at home was of
+"Andover," and the other "straight Orthodox"!
+
+Later, we adjourned to the drawing-room, spacious and handsome after
+the German fashion. I asked one of the daughters of the house, who I
+knew had spent some years in Russia, if the portrait of a middle-aged
+gentleman hanging near me, much decorated and with a gilded crown at
+the top of the frame, were not that of the late Czar (Alexander II.),
+when she replied, "It is our Emperor!" And I had seen his Majesty at
+least half a dozen times! But he was a much older man now. One of the
+Norwegian gentlemen sat down at the piano and played portions of a
+recent opera, and a game of questions and answers followed. Oranges
+and little cakes were served before the company broke up at the early
+hour of half-past eleven.
+
+Concerts and even the opera and theatre begin early in Germany. Doors
+are open usually about half-past five, and the performance seldom
+begins later than six or seven. This interferes with the time of the
+usual evening meal, so that refreshments at these places are always in
+order. One of the most characteristic evenings maybe spent at the
+Philharmonie, where the best music is given at popular prices several
+times each week. Tickets seldom cost more than fifteen or eighteen
+cents, and may be bought by the package for much less. This is a
+favorite place with the music-loving Germans, and for many Americans
+as well. Nearly all the German ladies take their knitting or
+fancy-work. The large and fine hall is filled on these occasions with
+chairs clustered around small tables accommodating from two to six.
+Here families and friends gather, chat in the intervals, and listen to
+the music, quietly sipping their beer or chocolate, and supper is
+served in the intermission to those who order it. Smoking is
+forbidden, but seldom is the hour after supper free from fumes of
+smokers who quietly venture to light their cigars unrebuked unless the
+room gets _too_ blue. Many entire families seem to make nightly
+rendezvous at these concerts, enjoying the music as only Germans do,
+and setting many a pretty picture in the minds of strangers. The
+concerts are over by nine or ten o'clock, but the performances at
+theatre and opera are frequently not concluded before half-past ten or
+eleven, and an after-supper at a _cafe_ or at home is a consequent
+necessity. In one aspect of behavior at concerts, American audiences
+may well imitate our German friends. The beginning of every piece of
+music is the signal for instantaneous cessation from conversation. I
+do not remember ever having been annoyed during the performance of
+music, either in public or private, while in Germany, by the talking
+of any except Americans or other foreigners. To the music-loving
+Germans this is among the greatest of social sins.
+
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+EDUCATION.
+
+
+The buildings of the Berlin University are somewhat scattered, but the
+edifice known by this name is situated opposite the Imperial Palace,
+in the finest part of the city. The building was once the palace of
+Prince Henry, brother of Frederick the Great. It is built around three
+sides of a court open southward to the street, guarded by a high
+ornamental iron fence. Before it are the sitting statues of the
+brothers Humboldt, in fine white marble, on high pedestals. That of
+Alexander von Humboldt, in particular, inspired me with profound
+admiration often as I passed it. Few statues are more fortunate in
+subject, in execution, or in position. The former reception-room of
+the palace is now the great _aula_ of the University, and the old
+ball-room is transformed into a Museum. The Cabinet of Minerals and
+the Collections of the Zooelogical Museum are each among the most
+valuable of their kind in existence. The fine park to the north of the
+University is open to the public, and is best seen from the rear
+entrance in Dorotheen Strasse. Its quiet shades seem quite the ideal
+of an academic grove, if that can be in the middle of a great city.
+The Astronomical Observatory is upwards of half a mile south, in a
+park at the end of Charlotten Strasse; and the Medical Colleges are
+mostly to the northwest, near the great hospital.
+
+This University, with its hundreds of professors, and nearly six
+thousand students annually in attendance, is now one of the foremost
+in Europe. Professors who, like Virchow, Helmholtz, and Mommsen, have
+a world-wide reputation, draw many to their classes; but there are
+other equally learned specialists with a more circumscribed reputation
+and influence. Hundreds of American students tarry each year for a
+longer or shorter term of study in Berlin, and it is rapidly gaining
+upon Leipsic as a centre for musical study also. No woman is allowed
+to matriculate in the University at present, although there are not
+wanting German women who, in advance of general public sentiment,
+affirm that this ought not so to be.
+
+The Academy of Arts and the Academy of Science are housed in the
+conspicuous building opposite the palace of Emperor William I. and
+adjoining the University. The Science Academy is organized in four
+sections, physical, mathematical, philosophical, and historical, and
+has valuable endowments and scholarships. The Academy of Arts has one
+section devoted to higher instruction in painting, engraving, and
+sculpture, and one to music, eminent specialists in each branch
+composing the Board of Direction. The imposing building of the
+Institute of Technology, near the extremity of the Thiergarten, has a
+fine Technological Museum, and accommodation for two thousand
+students. Its organization grew out of the union of two previously
+existing institutions for the promotion of architecture and trade. It
+has now five sections, in which about one thousand students pursue the
+study of architecture, civil engineering, machinery, ship-building,
+mining, and chemistry.
+
+Instruction in the science of war is given in all its departments, as
+might be expected. The War Office of the Government is in the
+Leipziger Strasse, adjoining the Reichstag, with one of the finest of
+ancient parks behind it, covering a space equal to several squares in
+the heart of the city. This park is elaborate and finely kept, but it
+is surrounded by high walls, within which the public is rarely
+admitted. Even its existence is unsuspected by most visitors. The
+large and elegant building of the War Academy in the Dorotheen Strasse
+has a war library of eight hundred thousand volumes and magnificent
+accessories. Its object is to educate army officers. There are three
+courses of study, promotion from which to the General Staff is made by
+examinations. The business of the General Staff is, in war, to
+regulate the movements of the army and to attend to the correct
+registration of material for war history. In peace, the time of the
+officers who compose it is devoted to a profound post-graduate study
+of the science and the art of warfare.
+
+An important accessory to the privileges of the University is the
+Royal Library, opposite the main building and adjacent to the palace
+of Emperor William I. in the Opera Platz. It is possible, though not
+common, for ladies to be allowed the privileges of this library,
+consisting of over a million volumes and thousands of valuable and
+curious manuscripts. A card of introduction to the Director from an
+influential source gave me the great pleasure of the use both of the
+library and the fine reading-rooms. Considerable time was consumed in
+the preliminaries, and there was red tape to be untied, but in general
+no unnecessary obstacles were thrown in the way even of a woman. On my
+first visit, before the requisite permission to use the library had
+been obtained, I was treated as a visitor, and most politely shown the
+treasures of the institution by intelligent officials. A young man who
+spoke excellent English was given me as a guide by the distinguished
+Director-in-Chief. Classification of the books is carried to great
+minuteness, and it is but the work of a moment, to one familiar with
+its principles, to turn to any book of the million. The apartments are
+plain and crowded, although some of the rooms of the adjoining palace
+had recently been turned into the library, which is fast outgrowing
+its accommodations. The young librarian who acted as our guide was
+eager for information concerning American libraries, asking
+particularly about the size and classification of the Boston Public
+Library. It was a pleasure to respond to one so intelligent and
+interested, and I felt sure he would make good use of every scrap of
+trustworthy information. He showed us his books with pride, and gave
+many interesting particulars. He also displayed to us some of the
+treasures kept in glass cases and usually covered from the light. Here
+were Luther's manuscript translation of the Bible, Gutenberg's Bible,
+the first book printed on movable types, the ancient Codex of the time
+of Charlemagne, miniatures, illuminated missals, and other things of
+much interest. As my dinner-hour approached I begged off for that day
+from the cordially offered inspection of the celebrated Hamilton
+manuscripts. It is said that the highest-priced book ever sold was the
+vellum missal presented to King Henry VIII. by Pope Leo X., which
+brought $50,000. The missal was accompanied by a document conferring
+on the King the title of "Defender of the Faith." It is now in this
+collection, having been given by King Charles II. to an ancestor of
+the Duke of Hamilton, whose manuscripts were purchased by the German
+Government in 1882.
+
+The tables of the reading-rooms for periodicals are well filled with
+magazines in all languages, and equal politeness is shown by
+officials. The apartments are in the second story, reached by a
+stairway ascending from a paved court off the Behren Strasse, in the
+rear of the Imperial Palace. No lovely spring-time memories are to us
+more vivid and attractive than those of the library reading-room, in
+the second story of the Library building, looking on the Opera Platz.
+Here, among many students of all nationalities from the University, I
+was wont to spend long delicious afternoons at a table of my own
+choosing, to which attentive officials brought the books of my
+selection, and where I was free to turn to books of reference on the
+shelves beside me. The room would accommodate perhaps two hundred,
+similarly employed. Among those I frequently met there were a German
+lady and an American gentleman whom I was so happy as to number among
+my friends. Intercourse between our tables was by smiles and nods,
+seldom crystallizing into words, but these were not wanted. Four
+centuries looked down upon us in portraits from the walls, and forty
+centuries were ours in the books below them. As the season advanced,
+the room was not full, and the long French windows stood open. Before
+them was a balcony facing the Platz, with its fountains, its
+shrubbery, and its flowers. The breath of spring and early summer was
+perfumed by mignonette and English violets, as it floated away from
+the murmur and the brightness of the brilliant scenes beyond up
+through every alcove of this quiet scholar's retreat.
+
+Books in English, as in other languages, are many and finely selected,
+though some departments are incomplete. A month's preparation here for
+a trip to Russia and the far North was one of unalloyed pleasure; and
+many volumes from the library were, under the rules, kindly permitted
+to reach and remain on the study-table of my own room while I needed
+them. The department of Scandinavian travel was, however, much more
+scantily represented than Russia. Long shall I have reason to remember
+with gratitude the generous "open sesame" and the rich privileges of
+this library, which, more than most things that enjoy the epithet,
+truly deserves the name Royal.
+
+As no woman can enter the Berlin University as a student, neither is
+it practicable for a lady, either as student or visitor, to find
+access to the _Gymnasia_, which, in the German sense of this term, are
+somewhat in the line of our American colleges. My windows looked into
+those of a fine new building across the street, devoted to the
+instruction of German youth. In through its doors there filed, every
+week-day morning, long lines of German boys and young men for the
+various grades of instruction; and a natural desire arose in the mind
+of an old teacher to "visit the school." But on application to an
+influential friend long resident in Germany, for a note of
+introduction to the Director of the _Gymnasium_, his hands were lifted
+in unaffected astonishment at the nature of the request, "A woman in a
+boys' school! oh, never! Ask me any other favor but that! Oh, it is
+_impossible_!" A German lady was more hopeful. She was intimate with
+the wife of the Director, and thought she could gain for me the
+coveted permission. But weeks lengthened into months, and still the
+right to enter even the enclosure sacred to the education of German
+boys was not obtained. So I studied the educational system at first on
+paper, and found many facts of interest. Attendance at the common
+schools is compulsory, all children of both sexes being required to
+attend, in separate buildings, from the ages of five to fourteen.
+Beyond this, the High School offers a training for practical life and
+business, and the _Gymnasium_ a classical and scientific training
+leading to the special studies of the University. The course of study
+in the _Gymnasia_ is similar to those of our colleges, some of the
+studies of the latter, however, being relegated to the University. A
+boy at nine years of age enters the _Gymnasium_ for a course of nine
+years, in which Latin and Greek receive the chief emphasis. The same
+great division of opinion as to the comparative merits of linguistic
+and scientific training which exists in the rest of the world,
+agitates the German mind. The _Gymnasium_ with its classical training
+is the child of the present century, and its growth all along has been
+disputed by those who claim greater advantages from a curriculum which
+lays chief stress on science, omitting the Greek and half the Latin,
+for a part of which modern languages are substituted. This has given
+rise to what are called the Real Schools, corresponding to our
+Scientific Schools. These receive their inspiration from the people
+rather than the learned classes, and are regarded as still on trial.
+Meantime, until quite recently, the graduates of the _Gymnasia_ have
+had a monopoly of competition for positions as teachers and
+opportunity to practise the learned professions. A recent change
+allows graduates of the Real Schools to compete for teacherships. The
+graduates of _Gymnasia_ only are allowed to enter the professions of
+Medicine and Law. The Prussian _Gymnasia_ are about two hundred and
+fifty in number, and the Real Schools somewhat over one hundred. In
+point of military service, these schools are all on an equal footing,
+a pupil who completes a course of six years in either being obliged to
+serve but one year with the colors. It is said that a large number of
+those who graduate in these schools do so for the sake of thus
+shortening their term of military service. I was present at an evening
+entertainment offered by the older students of one _Gymnasium_ to the
+friends of the school. It was a rendering, in Greek, of the Antigone
+of Sophocles, with considerable adjuncts of scenery, costume, and
+Greek chorus. A brief outline of the play in German was distributed to
+the audience. For the rest, a knowledge of Greek was the only key to
+what was said by experts to be well done.
+
+But if this one personal glimpse of the scholarship of the higher
+schools for boys was all that could be obtained, I was more fortunate
+in finding access to the schools for girls. Not, however, without
+painstaking. It is by no means a matter of course for any visitor to
+knock at the door of a school-room for a call upon the school. The
+coming of visitors is uniformly discouraged; the teachers saying that
+the pupils are not used to it, and that their attention is thereby
+diverted from their studies. A lady of my acquaintance, resident for
+some years in Berlin, asked permission to visit the school which her
+little daughter attended, and was refused. A professional educator
+from abroad, especially a gentleman, if properly introduced, will find
+little difficulty in obtaining access to the schools; but a lady, who
+wishes to go unofficially, will need persistence and courage before
+she effects her object.
+
+A friendly acquaintance with two German teachers smoothed the way,
+perhaps opened it, to a privilege I had hitherto sought in vain. At
+supper one evening I made an engagement to meet one of these ladies in
+the school to which she belonged, early the next morning. In the short
+Berlin days of mid-winter one must rise by candle-light to be in time
+for even the second hour of school, if living a half-hour distant. In
+one of the largest hotels of Berlin I saw, the week before Christmas,
+a little fellow, scarcely tall enough for seven years, departing for
+school in the morning, with his knapsack on his back, an hour before
+there would be daylight enough for him to study by. As he sturdily
+went forth from the elegant rooms and brilliantly lighted corridors
+into the cold gray dawn and the snowy streets towards the distant
+school, I said, "There is the way to train Spartans!" The schools
+begin at eight o'clock for girls, at seven for boys, though many go at
+later hours. Those who are not able to pay for instruction attend the
+"common schools," where tuition is free; but those who can must pay at
+the rate of from about five to seven dollars per quarter, in the
+schools denominated "public."
+
+The school to which I went occupies a handsome modern brick edifice,
+and accommodates eight hundred girls. It was ten o'clock, when the
+recess which follows the stroke of each hour (ten minutes) is doubled,
+in order to give time for the "second breakfast"--bread and butter
+taken in basket or bag--by both teachers and pupils, to supplement
+the rolls and coffee partaken of by candle-light in winter, which form
+the first breakfast. The teacher whom I knew was waiting for me in the
+corridor, where the busy hum of hundreds of young voices filled the
+air. Handsome and substantial stone staircases fill the central
+portion of the edifice, lighted by a skylight, by windows where a
+transverse corridor reaches to the street, and by ground glass in the
+double doors leading to some of the class-rooms. It was a dark
+morning, and so the corridors were dim enough. Most of the pupils are
+in school from eight to one o'clock. Some of the younger ones come at
+nine, or even ten, and go home at twelve. I was told that instruction
+as to what to do in case of fire in the building is carefully given,
+but saw no fire-escapes, except the stairways. There was provision for
+ventilation in the class-rooms,--a register near the floor admitting
+pure warm air, and another near the ceiling giving exit to impure air.
+But this mode was quite insufficient to secure good air in most of the
+rooms. I was conducted to the Director of the school, without whose
+permission I could not enter. He was standing in the corridor on the
+third floor, surrounded by several girls, with whom he was talking in
+the manner of a _paterfamilias_,--an aged man, with a shrewd but
+kindly face. I was introduced, and the object of my visit stated.
+Bowing and leading the way to his office, he made a slight demurrer as
+to the profit I should reap, but freely accorded the permission, after
+making an entry, apparently from my visiting-card, in his register. My
+friend again took me in charge, and conducted me to another room,
+where I was introduced to the "first instructress," and to five or six
+other lady teachers, all of whom sat, in wooden chairs, around a plain
+wooden table, partaking of their luncheon. Two or three good
+photographs--one of the Roman forum--were in frames on the walls; a
+large mirror and a set of lock-boxes gave the teachers toilet
+accommodations; while baskets of knitting and other belongings bespoke
+this as the retiring-room of the lady teachers. The chief of these, a
+kind-faced matronly woman, spoke English imperfectly; but several of
+the younger ones spoke it very well, and one or two were of charming
+manners and appearance.
+
+From a schedule hanging on the wall, I was shown the names and number
+of recitations for the day. "What would I like to see? How long can I
+remain? Will I come again to-morrow?" If the permission to visit a
+school be often difficult to gain, once received, it covers every
+recitation, and as many hours or days as the visitor chooses to devote
+to it. I was first conducted to a recitation in arithmetic. The room
+contained accommodations for fifty pupils, and the seats were filled
+by girls about thirteen or fourteen years of age. Wooden desks and
+seats (the outer row for three pupils each, the central for four
+each), a slightly raised platform for the teacher, with a plain desk
+and two chairs, several cases of butterflies and beetles, on the walls
+a map or two, a small blackboard behind the teacher's desk, in
+grooves, so that it may be elevated or lowered at pleasure, make up
+the furniture of the room. The light, as in every room I visited, was
+from one side, to the left of the pupils. The teacher--a man with gray
+hair and beard, but young enough as to vivacity and enthusiasm, and a
+gentleman in manners--bowed me to the chair he offered, and with a
+wave of the hand bade the children, who had risen on our entrance, be
+seated. The lesson was wholly oral and mental. Addition, subtraction,
+and multiplication were carried on by means of numbers, given out with
+so much vivacity and judgment that every eye was fastened on the
+teacher and every mind alert. Most of the right hands were raised for
+answer to every question, with the index finger extended; and the
+pupil selected was chosen now here, now there, to give it audibly.
+Rank was observed from left to right, the lower changing places with
+the higher whenever a failure above and a correct answer below paved
+the way. Large numbers were often used; for example, adding or
+subtracting by sixties, and multiplying far beyond twelve times
+twelve,--all apparently with equal facility. The second half of the
+hour was devoted to a visit to a class of younger girls. Another
+arithmetic class, taught by a younger gentleman; the pupils were in
+the eighth class, or second year at school,--age about seven. The room
+accommodated the same number, and was lighted and furnished in a
+similar way. Here figures were written on the blackboard by the
+teacher. The early part of the lesson had evidently been in addition;
+now it was subtraction, which was carefully explained by the pupils,
+and the hour closed by a few mental exercises in concert. In the ten
+minutes' recess which followed, I again chatted with the teachers in
+their private room. Thirty teachers are employed to teach these eight
+hundred girls,--twenty gentlemen and ten ladies. I said that in
+America the lady teachers largely outnumbered the gentlemen. The lady
+with whom I was conversing replied that the upper classes in girls'
+schools were all taught by gentlemen, as the ladies were not prepared
+to pass the required examinations for these positions. "The gentlemen
+have a course in the _Gymnasium_ about equal to that in your
+colleges," she said, "and then pursue a course in the University, in
+order to fit themselves for teachers." "The expense of this is too
+much for ladies?" I inquired. "Yes; and they have not the opportunity.
+They are not admitted to the University of Berlin, and then--women
+have not the strength for such hard studies"! "How many recitations do
+you hear?" I asked. "The lady teachers, twenty-two per week; the
+gentlemen, twenty-four." "The salaries of the gentlemen are higher?"
+"Oh yes, much higher. They have families to support; and then, the
+ladies are unsteady,--they often marry."
+
+I was now conducted to the upper division of the first class; girls in
+the last of the nine years' course of study,--ages about fourteen to
+sixteen. This was the only class reciting in English, which within a
+few years has been made a part of the required course, as well as
+French. They were reading in little paper-covered books, in German
+text, the _Geisterseher_ of Schiller, and translating the same into
+English. The teacher was an English gentleman. He wrote occasionally a
+word on the blackboard, when he wished to explain or impress upon the
+memory a term or a synonym,--as, for instance, "temporarily," and the
+words "soften," "mitigate," "assuage,"--and corrected such mistakes in
+translation as "guess to" for "guess at," and "declaration" for
+"explanation."
+
+The second division of this first class was in German history. Several
+of the pupils had historical atlases open before them, which covered
+the history of the world from the most ancient times to the present,
+prepared with that excellence which has made German maps famous. The
+compendium used for a class-book was a brief record of dates and
+events in Roman type, which is gradually but surely superseding the
+old German letters. The teacher talked of the quarrel between popes
+and emperors in the Middle Ages, and especially of the wars of the
+Investitures. Passing through the corridor after this recitation, I
+inquired the use of a library there, consisting of several hundred
+volumes, and was told it was for the use of the teachers; and that
+there was also one for the use of the pupils, from which they might
+draw books to read at home,--"some amusing and some instructive."
+
+As "Religion" is marked in the schedule of instruction, and in the
+weekly, monthly, and quarterly reports sent to the parents, I asked to
+see the text-book, and was shown two or three. That for the younger
+pupils was simple, after the manner of our "Bible Stories," of the
+Creation, "Joseph and his Brethren," etc. That for the upper classes
+consisted of several catechisms bound in one, including "Luther's,"
+and supplemented by a number of Psalms, as the 1st, 15th, 23d, 130th,
+to be committed to memory.
+
+I asked if sewing and knitting were taught, and was answered in the
+affirmative. "Is there a teacher for sewing only?" I asked. "No;
+formerly there was, but now the teaching of sewing and knitting is
+distributed among all the lady teachers. The teachers have more
+influence with the pupils in this way." A wise remark; as only a
+sewing-teacher of exceptional force and ability can have an influence
+with the pupils to be compared with that of those who teach them
+literature. Embroidery is taught, but only "useful embroidery," as the
+beautiful initial-work on all bed and table linen in Germany is
+called. Some of that shown me in the sewing-room I now visited was
+exquisite, but was outdone, if possible, by the darning. Over a small
+cushion, encased in white cotton cloth, a coarse fabric of stiff
+threads is pinned, after a square has been cut out from it. This hole
+the pupil is to replace by darning, composed of white and colored
+threads. In this instance blue and white threads were woven about the
+pin-heads inserted at some distance outside the edges of the hole, one
+for each thread. The darning replaces the fabric, not only with
+neatness and strength, but in ornamental patterns. Squares, plaids,
+herringbone and lozenge patterns were done by this process in such a
+manner as to be very handsome.
+
+We now descended to the ground floor, where was a large gymnasium,
+fitted up simply, but with a variety of apparatus. A teacher is
+employed for gymnastics only, but for the reason that until recently
+the other teachers have not had opportunity to prepare for the
+examinations, so strict in Germany on every branch. The children here
+were among the youngest in the school, and were well taught by a lady,
+but with nothing in the method worthy of special note. The last
+half-hour, I listened to a recitation in geography. Girls of ten to
+twelve were numbering and naming the bridges of Berlin, as I entered,
+and the recitation continued for some time on the topography and
+boundaries of their own city. A few general questions were given on
+Germany and its boundaries, and the passes of the Alps, especially the
+Simplon; and the First Napoleon came in for a little discussion. The
+whole method and result in this class were admirable.
+
+The teachers seemed to expect I would come again on the morrow, as I
+had not visited all the classes; and my thanks for the hospitality and
+full opportunity of inspection which I had so much enjoyed, were
+mingled with the apology I felt was needed, that my engagements would
+not permit another visit to the school.
+
+I next sought and obtained an introduction to a Girls' High School.
+This was under the patronage of the Empress Augusta, and was said, in
+furnishing and equipment, to be the best in the city. The building is
+a good one, and the furniture more nearly approaching to that of the
+best schools in American cities. We went into two or three classes,
+but were not particularly impressed, favorably or unfavorably, with
+the methods of instruction. Not so in the gymnastic rooms, where we
+went to view the exercises of the Normal class, soon to be graduated.
+No courtesy was shown us by the master in charge, but we were
+tolerantly allowed to take seats. Here were young women about eighteen
+years of age, going through some of the more active exercises, in a
+large and well-fitted room, without a breath of outer air, in sleeves
+so close that their arms were partly raised with difficulty; so
+tightly laced about the waist that the blood rushed to their faces
+whenever they attempted the running exercise sometimes required, and
+with long skirts and the highest of French heels! And yet this is a
+country in which a woman is not considered capable of instructing the
+higher classes in gymnastics!
+
+I now essayed to visit a representative girls' school carried on by
+private enterprise. The one to which I obtained introduction--and this
+was always a particular matter, the time of the visit being arranged
+some days previous by correspondence--was under the patronage of the
+then Crown Princess, Victoria, whose portrait hung in a conspicuous
+place in the elegantly furnished drawing-room into which I was first
+shown. Soon the principal appeared,--a lady, who from a small
+beginning about fifteen years before had brought the enterprise to its
+present successful stage, with several hundred pupils in annual
+attendance. There were a number of governesses, and about thirty
+pupils resident in the family, the remainder being day-pupils. When
+asked what I would like to see, as this was a private school, and I
+knew nothing of its methods, I replied that I would leave the
+particulars of my visit to the lady in charge. She still hesitated,
+when I suggested that I should feel interested to visit a class in
+mathematics. The lady lifted her hands in astonishment. "Mathematics!
+for girls? Never! We aim to fit girls to become good wives and
+mothers,--not to teach them mathematics!" "Do you have no classes in
+arithmetic?" I asked. "Yes, some arithmetic; but higher mathematics
+would only be hostile to their sphere,--it is not necessary." "Not
+necessary, possibly," I replied; "but in America we do not think
+higher study hostile to the preparation of girls for their duties as
+wives and mothers." "But it is," she replied. "When girls get their
+minds preoccupied with such things, it interferes with the true
+preparation for their life." As I had come to learn this lady's ideas
+of education for girls, not to vindicate mine, I turned the discussion
+into an inquiry as to the ideal of culture she set before her pupils.
+"Girls attempt too many things," was the reply. "They come here, some
+from England and other places, anxious to learn music and languages
+and what not. I tell them it is impossible to do so many things well.
+If they wish to learn music, this is not the place for them. They may
+practise a little,--an hour or two a day, if they wish,--but it is
+folly to attempt the study of music with other things. We aim to give
+a thorough training in language and literature; not a smattering, but
+such an acquaintance as will enable them to understand the people
+whose tongue they study,--to look at life through their eyes, and to
+be thoroughly familiar with the masterpieces of their literature. Of
+course, German holds the first place, but French and English are also
+taught." I was taken to a class in German literature. The plain and
+primitive furnishing of the class-rooms was in noticeable contrast to
+the elegance of the parlors. The girls sat on plain wooden benches,
+with desks before them on which their note-books lay open. They used
+these as those who had been trained to take notes and recite from
+them. I had been told that the teacher in charge of this class was one
+of the most excellent in the city. The hour was occupied by a lecture
+on Lessing, a poet whom the class were evidently studying with German
+minuteness.
+
+I also visited a class in reading,--younger girls, about ten or twelve
+years of age. They were admirably taught, both in reading and
+memorizing, the latter chiefly of German ballads. I saw no better
+teaching done in Berlin than that of this class. Its enthusiastic lady
+teacher would be a treasure in any land. The last visit of the morning
+was to a class in vocal music, taught by a gentleman. It was
+interesting as affording a view of the methods in this music-loving
+country, but did not differ materially from what would be considered
+good instruction and drill on this side the water. The teacher himself
+played the piano, the pupils standing in rows on either side.
+
+In the teachers' dressing-room, a comfortable apartment for the
+teachers who came from without the building, I chatted a few moments
+with two or three ladies. One spoke English so well that I asked if it
+were her vernacular. She appeared gratified by the compliment; said
+she had been much in other continental countries, and had spent three
+years in England, with eighteen months beside in the United States.
+She mistook me for an Englishwoman, and confidently informed me that
+she had feared her English accent was ruined by the time spent "in the
+States." "Did you find it so?" I inquired. "No," she said;
+"fortunately I was able to correct it by stopping in England on my way
+back." She had evidently not met the gentleman who informed his
+English friends that they must go to Boston, Massachusetts, if they
+would hear English spoken correctly. While in Berlin I heard of a
+young American who was accosted by an Englishman with a question as to
+what language she spoke. "I speak American," was the reply, "but I can
+understand English if it is spoken slowly."
+
+The wish to learn English is almost universal among Germans, and the
+schools have not been before public opinion in making it a part of the
+curriculum. The result as yet, however, judging from our observation,
+will justify greater painstaking and more practice, before a high
+degree of accuracy is reached among the pupils.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+CHURCHES.
+
+
+The greatest Protestant power of Continental Europe has no
+Court-churches worthy in appearance of companionship with its palaces
+and public buildings. But there are those of much historical and other
+interest, and in some of them the living power of Christianity bears
+sway. The _Dom_, or Cathedral, dating from the time of Frederick the
+Great, is far inferior, within and without, to the magnificent
+buildings which surround it, facing the _Lustgarten_, or Esplanade.
+Long ago royal plans were made to replace it by an edifice more
+worthy, but these have not been carried out, though since the
+accession of Emperor William II. measures have been taken looking
+toward the erection of a new cathedral.
+
+The usual hour for Sunday-morning service is ten o'clock. The latitude
+of Berlin is over ten degrees farther north than that of New York and
+Chicago, and the sun at ten o'clock in winter is about as high as at
+nine o'clock in the latter cities. So it is only by special effort
+that a midwinter sojourner in Berlin can be at morning service. Within
+three minutes of the time appointed, on my first visit, the aged
+Emperor William entered the _Dom_ and stood for a few minutes in the
+attitude of devotion, as did the other members of the Imperial
+household. The gallery on the left of the preacher was occupied by
+three boxes,--one for the Emperor, one for the Crown Prince and his
+family, and one for their retinues. The service proceeded in the
+language of the people,--that language created and preserved to
+Germany by Luther's translation of the Bible. A finely trained choir
+of some sixty singers led the music, all the people joining in the
+psalms and hymns; the Imperial family taking part in the service with
+simplicity and appearance of sincerity, as those who stood, with all
+present, in the presence of Him with whom is no respect of persons.
+The plain interior of the _Dom_ has a painting behind the altar, and
+the large candles in immense candlesticks on either side were burning
+before a crucifix throughout the entire service. This we found true
+also in most of the other churches,--a reminder that, wide as was the
+gulf between the Lutheran Church and that of Rome, the former retained
+some customs which Puritanism discarded. Pews fill the central part of
+this cathedral, and the broad aisle skirting the side at the left of
+the front entrance has a few seats for the delicate and infirm of the
+throng which always stands there at the time for the morning service.
+
+It was in this church that the departed Emperor William I. lay in
+state for the great funeral pageant when his ninety-one years of life
+were over. Here in the vaults many members of Prussia's royal family
+repose, and here many stately ceremonies have taken place. At the door
+of this cathedral Emperor William I., then Prince Regent, stood with
+uncovered head to receive the remains of Alexander Von Humboldt, which
+here lay in state in May, 1859, after the great scholar "went forth"
+for the last time from his home in the Oranienburger Strasse.
+
+We attended a service at the oldest of the Berlin churches, the
+Nicolai Kirche, and found the sparseness of the audience in striking
+contrast with the crowds which frequented most of the other churches
+where we went. Standing-room is usually at a premium in the Cathedral,
+the Garrison Church, and the place, wherever it may be, in which
+Dryander preaches; and in nearly all the churches unoccupied seats are
+hard to find. This is due, not to the large numbers of church-going
+people in Berlin, but to the comparatively limited church
+accommodations. It is not too soon that the present Emperor has given
+order that the number of churches and sittings be immediately
+increased. In this city of about a million and a half inhabitants,
+there are only about seventy-five churches and chapels, all told; none
+very large, and some quite small. It is said that Dryander's parish
+numbers forty thousand souls, and that there are other parishes
+including eighty thousand and one hundred and twenty thousand each.
+Only about two per cent of the population attend church. Ties to a
+particular church seem scarcely to exist in many cases; those who go
+to Divine service following their favorite preacher from place to
+place as he ministers now in one part, now in another, of his vast
+parish, or going to the Court Church to see the Imperial family, or to
+some other which happens to offer fine music or some special
+attraction for the day. Churches do not need, however, to offer
+special attractions nor to advertise sensational novelties in order to
+be filled, and of course there are many humble and devout Christians
+found in the same places from week to week.
+
+The Nicolai Kirche dates from before 1250 A.D. and the great granite
+foundations of the towers were laid still earlier. At this period the
+savage Wends and the robber-castles of North Germany were yielding to
+the prowess of the Knights of the Teutonic Order, and the powerful
+Hanseatic League was uniting its free cities and cementing its
+commercial interests, of which Berlin was erelong to be a part,--a
+League which was to sweep the Baltic by its fleets, and to set up and
+dethrone kings by its armies. Already the Crusades had broken the long
+sleep of the Dark Ages, and stirred the people with that mighty
+impulse which brought the culmination, in the thirteenth century, of
+the great church-building epoch of Europe in the Middle Ages. No
+great churches which they could not live to finish were begun by he
+frugal burghers of Berlin; but they had a style of their own in the
+brick Gothic, which is the most truly national architecture of North
+Germany. The Nicolai Kirche is a representative of these early times
+and of this national architecture, but its interior decorations show
+every variety of adornment which prevailed during five centuries after
+its founding. Not alone the history of art is represented on the inner
+walls of this venerable and unique edifice, but the municipal history,
+and the history of the "Mark of Brandenburg," and the Kingdom of
+Prussia as well.
+
+Almost as ancient as the Nicolai Kirche is the Heiliggeist Kirche,
+behind the Boerse. Near this is the Marien Kirche, with its high spire,
+its Abbot's Cross--the emblem of Old Berlin--before the entrance, and
+on the inner walls its frescos of the Dance of Death, painted to
+commemorate the plague which ravaged Berlin in 1460. Adjoining this
+church, in the Neue Markt, Berlin's statue of Luther is to be erected.
+Of the same old time, and in the same old heart of Berlin, is the fine
+Kloster Kirche of the Franciscan monks, who had once a monastery
+adjoining. A morning's stroll or two enables one to inspect all these
+interesting old churches,--passing first to the Nicolai Kirche from
+the end of the tramway in the Fisch Markt, and then, by a convenient
+circuit, to each of the others, returning by the Museums and the
+Lustgarten. The Jerusalems Kirche, about three quarters of a mile
+south, is said to have been founded by a citizen at the end of the
+Crusades as a memento of his journey to Palestine; but its present
+ornamented architecture belongs to a modern reconstruction. An
+effective architectural group is formed by the two churches in the
+Schiller Platz, with the great _Schauspielhaus_, or Royal Theatre,
+between them,--a view which soon becomes familiar to one passing often
+through the central part of the city. The French Church, on the north
+side of the Theatre, we did not enter, and of the "New Church"--a
+hundred years old and recently rejuvenated--our most abiding memories
+are of an exquisite sacred concert given there in aid of a local
+charity. We made a pilgrimage to see the effect of this group by
+moonlight, but, perhaps because it had been too highly praised, we
+found the view rather disappointing. But we shall long remember a
+walk at evening twilight through this place, when early dusk and
+gleaming gas-jets around and within the square had taken the place of
+departing sunlight, which still bathed in radiance the gilded figures
+surmounting the domes in the clear upper air. Few of the hurrying
+multitudes stopped to look upward, but those who did could hardly fail
+to gain an impressive lesson from the inspiring and suggestive sight.
+
+Frommel, the good man and attractive preacher who usually officiates
+in the Garrison Church, is one of the four Court-preachers, each of
+whom is eminent in his way. We sat one morning, with many others, on
+the steps to the chancel in the Garrison Church, as the house was
+crowded in every part. The spacious galleries were filled with
+soldiers in Prussian uniform, and many also were in the pews below.
+The soldiers were not there merely in obedience to orders. They
+listened intently, for Court-preacher Frommel has a message to the
+minds and hearts of men. His oratory is eloquent, scintillating; from
+first to last it holds captive the crowded audience. Never have I
+witnessed gestures which were so essentially a part of the speaker;
+hands so incessantly assisting to convey subtle thought and feeling
+from the brain and heart of the orator to the magnetized audience,
+whose faces unconsciously testified to a mental and spiritual
+uplifting. It was told me that the aged Emperor never travelled from
+his capital without the attendance of this chaplain, as well known for
+his simple Christian integrity and his ceaseless good deeds as for his
+wonderful eloquence.
+
+Trinity Church, where for a quarter of a century Schleiermacher
+preached and wrought, is now ministered to by the worthy Dryander and
+his colleagues, who faithfully do what they can for the spiritual
+welfare of the immense parish. The edifice, of a peculiar model,
+stands in a central portion of Berlin, almost under the shadow of the
+lofty and famous hotel known as the Kaiserhof. On the Sunday mornings
+when Dryander preaches here, aisles, vestibules, and stairways are
+crowded until there is no standing-room, much less a seat, within
+sight or hearing of the popular preacher. His manner is simple, but
+very forceful and sympathetic, his earnest face and voice holding the
+audience like a spell.
+
+The finest religious music in Berlin is rendered on Friday evenings at
+sunset, in the great Jewish synagogue in the Oranienburger Strasse,
+built at a cost of six million marks, and said to be the best in
+Europe. The spacious interior seats nearly five thousand, with pews on
+the main floor for men only, and galleries for the women. Three
+thousand burning gas-jets above and behind the rich stained glass of
+the dome and side windows give an effect remarkable both for beauty
+and weirdness. The building without loses much by its close
+surroundings of ordinary houses, but the Moorish arches and
+decorations within are unique and effective. Over the sacred
+enclosure, where a red light always burns, and which contains the ark
+"of the law and the testimony," a gallery across the eastern end holds
+the fine organ, and accommodates the choir of eighty trained singers.
+Christmas eve happened in 1886 on a Friday; so, before the later
+German Christian home festival to which we were invited, we wended our
+way to the Jewish weekly sunset service. Neither among the men nor the
+women was there much outward evidence of devotion. In the female
+countenances around me in the gallery the well-known Jewish
+physiognomy was almost universal. While the rabbi read the service,
+with his back to the audience, most followed in their Hebrew books;
+but one by one many men slipped out, as though they were "on 'Change"
+and did not care to stay any longer to-day. The women remained, but
+with a slightly perfunctory air in most cases. One old crone before me
+seemed touched with the true pathos which belongs to her race and its
+history. She followed the service intently, swaying her body back and
+forth in time with the beautiful music, and ever and anon breaking
+forth in a low, sweet, plaintive strain with her own voice. Oh the
+longing of such lives, waiting to find through the centuries the
+realization of a hope never fulfilled and growing ever more and more
+dim! My Puritanism had been scarcely reconciled to the crucifix and
+the candles of the Protestant churches in Berlin, but now, if my life
+and hopes had depended on the religion of this Jewish ceremonial, I
+would have given worlds to find a crucifix in the vacant space above
+their Sacred Ark. These sweet strains of exquisite music seem to give
+voice without articulation to the unrevealed, imprisoned longing of
+the Jewish heart for something better than it knows. I could only
+compare the feeling, in this cold, mechanical worship of the
+Fatherhood of God, as it seemed to me, with the vague disappointment
+of climbing stairs in the dark, and stretching out foot and hand for
+another which is not there. The Christmas torches were burning in the
+Schloss-platz and the market-places without, crowded for days and
+nights past with a busy multitude, making ready for the
+Christ-festival which was to light a Christmas-tree that night in
+every home in Germany. Even Jews could not resist the gladness; and
+their homes, like the rest, had every one its Christmas-tree and its
+fill of cheer, paying their tribute to the world-wide joy, even though
+they would not. But as I sat among them and went forth with them, I
+thought also of their ancestral line stretching back to Abraham
+through centuries of the most wonderful history which belongs to any
+race. Beside these Israelites, how puerile the fame and deeds of the
+Hohenzollerns! The sixty or seventy thousand Jews of Berlin hold in
+their hands, it is said, a large part of the wealth of the city; but
+they are proscribed, and it is thought by many, unjustly treated
+before the law.
+
+The one English church in Berlin rejoices in a new and beautiful
+though chaste and modest edifice in the gardens of Monbijou Palace.
+The site, presented by the Emperor William I., is in the heart of the
+city, surrounded, in this quiet and beautiful place, by many
+interesting historic associations. The edifice was built chiefly
+through the efforts of the Crown Princess Victoria, who raised in
+London in a few hours a large part of the necessary funds, and who
+also devoted to this object, so dear to her English heart, presents
+received at her silver wedding. The service attracts on Sunday
+mornings, of course, all adherents of the Church of England, as well
+as many Americans, to whom the magnet of an Episcopal service is
+greater than that of the association of Christians of all
+denominations in the devout and simple worship of the Chapel in Junker
+Strasse, where the Union American and British service is held. One of
+the first places we essayed to find in Berlin was the chapel at
+present used by this organization. Our German landlady had unwittingly
+misdirected us, and we insisted on her direction, to the bewilderment
+of our cabman. Up one strange street and down another he drove, with
+sundry protests and shakes of the head on our part. We insist on
+"Heulmann Strasse." He stops and inquires. "Nein! nein!" he says,
+"Junker Strasse." "No! no!" we reply. He holds a conference with two
+brother drosky-men. Three Germans "of the male persuasion" outside
+insist on "Junker Strasse." Three Americans "of the female persuasion"
+inside insist on "Heulmann Strasse." "Nein!" says the man, with a
+determined air, and takes the reins now as though he means business.
+We lean back in our seats, resigned to going wrong because we cannot
+help ourselves, when lo! we draw up at the door of the building used
+by the American church in Junker Strasse. Those barbarous men were
+right, after all! Late; but how our hearts were warmed and cheered by
+the sight of a plain audience-room, holding about two hundred
+English-speaking people; the pulpit draped in our dear old American
+flag, and another on the choir-gallery! How precious were the simple
+devout hymns and prayers in our own tongue wherein we were born! There
+was an American Thanksgiving sermon,--eloquent, earnest, magnetic.
+Strangers in a strange land, we felt that we could never be homesick
+in a city where was such a service. This Union Church service was
+established some twenty-five or thirty years ago, Governor Wright,
+then United States Minister to Germany, being prominently connected
+with its beginnings. There is now a regular church organization, with
+the Bible and the Apostles' Creed as its doctrinal basis. For eight or
+nine years past, the present pastor, the Rev. J.H.W. Stueckenberg,
+D.D., born in Germany, but a loyal and devoted soldier and citizen of
+the American Republic, has, with his accomplished wife, been
+indefatigable in caring for the services, and administering to the
+needs--physical, social, and religious--of Americans in Berlin. The
+first gathering which we attended in the city was an American
+Thanksgiving Banquet, under the auspices of the "Ladies' Social Union"
+connected with this "American Chapel." Invitations were issued to an
+"American Home Gathering," for Thanksgiving evening, to be held in the
+Architectenhaus at six o'clock. Greetings, witty and wise, were
+extended to the assembled company of some two hundred, by a lady from
+Boston; grace was said by Professor Mead, formerly of Andover, and the
+American Thanksgiving dinner was duly appreciated, though some of us
+had in part forestalled its appetizing pleasures by attendance at a
+delightful private afternoon dinner-party, where the true home flavors
+had been heightened by the shadow of the American flag which draped
+its silken folds above the table, depending from candelabra in which
+"red, white, and blue" wax lights were burning.
+
+Only the initiated can know what such an American Thanksgiving dinner
+as that given in this public entertainment in Germany must mean to the
+painstaking ladies, who need to direct every detail in contravention
+of the established customs of the country. Turkey was forthcoming, but
+cranberries were sought far and wide in vain, until Dresden at last
+sent an imitation of the American berry, to keep it company. Mince
+pies were regarded as essential to the feast. As pies are here
+unknown, the pie-plates must be made to order after repeated and
+untold minuteness of direction to the astonished tinman. The ordinary
+kitchen ranges of Germany are without ovens, and all cake and pastry,
+as well as bread, must emerge from the baker's oven. So to the shop of
+the baker two ladies repaired, to mix with their own hands the pastry
+and to prepare the mince-meat, graciously declining the yeast and
+eggs offered them for the purpose. The delicious results justified in
+practical proof the tireless endeavor for a real home-like American
+dinner. Our German friends laughed at the "dry banquet" where only
+lemonade and coffee kept the viands company, but right good cheer was
+not wanting. Before the guests rose from table, the pastor read
+letters of regret from Minister Pendleton (absent in affliction) and
+others, and proposed the health of the President of the United States
+and of Mrs. Cleveland, who, as Miss Folsom, shared in the Berlin
+festivities of Americans at Thanksgiving the year before. The toast
+which followed--to the aged Emperor William--was most cordially
+responded to by a member of the Empress's household, Count Bernsdorff,
+endeared to many in both hemispheres by his active interest in
+whatsoever things are true and of good report. Rare music was
+discoursed at intervals, from a band in the gallery, alternating with
+amateur performers on the violin and piano, from under the German and
+American flags intertwined at the opposite end of the handsome hall.
+The good name of American students of music in Berlin was well
+deserved, judging from their contributions to the enjoyment of this
+occasion. The evening's programme closed with our national airs in
+grand chorus, cheering and inspiring all. To some hearts the dear
+melody of "The Suwanee River," which afterwards floated out on the
+evening air of the busy city, mingled a pathos before unsuspected with
+the good-nights and the adieus, and brought an undertone of sadness
+caused by the knowledge that we were far from home, and that our loved
+ones, from Atlantic to Pacific, were returning from their Thanksgiving
+sermon, or later gathering about the festal board, at the hour when
+we, wanderers, were clustered in the heart of the German Empire with
+like purpose and in like precious faith and memory.
+
+The Sunday services of this enterprise are now held in an edifice
+belonging to a German Methodist church, which can be had for one
+service only, at an hour which will not interfere with the uses which
+have a prior claim. The Sunday evenings, when a goodly congregation
+might be gathered if a suitable audience-room could be had, are times
+of loneliness and homesickness to many American youth and others far
+from home and friends. Dr. and Mrs. Stueckenberg have generously
+opened their own pleasant home at 18 Buelow Strasse for Sunday-evening
+receptions to Americans. Their large and beautiful apartments were
+much too small to accommodate all who would gladly have gathered
+there. But in the course of the season there were few Americans
+attending the morning service who were not to be met, one Sunday
+evening or another, in the parlors of the pastor and his wife; and
+many others, students, were nearly always there. A half-hour was given
+on these occasions to social greetings; then followed familiar hymns,
+led by the piano and a volunteer choir of young people, after which an
+informal lecture was given by the pastor. Dr. Stueckenberg emigrated
+with his parents to America in early childhood, but has studied in the
+Universities of Halle, Goettingen, Berlin, and Tuebingen. His large
+acquaintance with German scholars enabled him to give most interesting
+reminiscences of the teaching and personality of some of these, his
+teachers and friends. Among the talks which we remember vividly were
+those on Tholuck, Doerner, and Von Ranke. At another time Dr.
+Stueckenberg gave a series of lectures on Socialism,--a theme whose
+manifold aspects he has studied profoundly, and which, in Germany as
+elsewhere, is the question of the hour, the day, and the century, and
+perhaps of the next century too. After the lecture there generally
+followed prayer and another hymn, and always slight refreshments,--tea
+and sandwiches, or little cakes,--over which all chatted and were free
+to go when they would. Many were the occasions when, in these
+gatherings, every heart seemed to partake of the gladness radiated by
+the magnetic host and hostess; and all Europe seemed brighter because
+of these homelike, social, Christian Sunday evenings which lighted up
+the sojourn in Berlin. The effort now being made to build a permanent
+and commodious church edifice for Americans in Berlin is a pressing
+necessity.
+
+Dr. Christlieb, the eminent Professor of Theology and University
+Preacher in Bonn, asserts that the number of American students in
+Berlin is now by far the largest congregated in any one place in
+Germany. The number, as stated in 1888 by Rev. Dr. Philip Schaff, was
+about four hundred, besides the numerous American travellers there
+every year for a longer or shorter time. Seventeen denominations have
+been represented in this church in a single year, and any evangelical
+minister in good standing in his own church is eligible to election as
+its pastor. From the beginning these union services have been entirely
+harmonious; and Methodists, Congregationalists, Presbyterians,
+Baptists, Lutherans, and Episcopalians have been chiefly active in
+promoting them.
+
+The churches of the royal suburb of Potsdam possess an interest quite
+equal to that of those in Berlin. The Potsdam Garrison Church, in
+general interior outlines, reminds one of some quaint New England
+meeting-house of the early part of the eighteenth century. But here
+the resemblance ceases. The ancient arrangement of windows and
+galleries impresses one only at the moment of entering, attention
+being presently diverted to the flags clustered on the gallery pillars
+and on either side the pulpit, in two rows,--the lower captured from
+the French in the wars with the First Napoleon, the upper taken in the
+late contests with Austria and with Napoleon III. Altar-cloths and
+other furnishings are heavily embroidered with the handiwork of
+vanished queens. But the chief interest centres in the vault under the
+handsome marble pulpit. In this vault, on the left, are the mortal
+remains of the old Prussian King, Frederick William I.,--father of
+Frederick the Great,--a character hard to understand, and interpreted
+differently as one surveys him in the light of Macaulay's genius or
+that of Carlyle. But one cannot help hoping that the final verdict
+will be with the latter; and as we stand in this solemn place, memory
+recalls the day--the midnight, rather--when this same oak coffin, long
+before the death of the King made ready by his orders in the old
+Palace of Potsdam close at hand, at last received its burden, and was
+borne in Spartan simplicity to this place, the torch-lighted band
+playing his favorite dirge,--
+
+    "Oh, Sacred Head, now wounded!"
+
+On the right, separated from the coffin of his father only by the
+short aisle, is that of Frederick the Great. Three wreaths were lying
+upon it,--placed there by the Emperor and by the Crown Prince and the
+Crown Princess on the hundredth anniversary of the death of this
+founder of Prussia's greatness, August 17, 1886. Fortunate is the
+visitor to Potsdam who does not altogether overlook this Garrison
+Church, misled by the brief mention usually accorded to it in the
+guide-books.
+
+The Friedenskirche, near the entrance to the park of Sans Souci, has a
+detached high clock-tower adjoining, and cloisters beautiful, even in
+winter, with the myrtle and ivy and evergreens of the protected court
+which they surround. In the inner court is a copy of Thorwaldsen's
+celebrated statue of Christ (the original at Copenhagen); also,
+Rauch's original "Moses, supported by Aaron and Hur," and a beautiful
+_Pieta_ is in the opposite colonnade. The church is in the form of the
+ancient basilica, which is not favorable to much adornment. A crucifix
+of _lapis lazuli_ under a canopy resting on jasper columns--a present
+from the Czar Nicholas--stands on the marble altar. A beautiful angel
+in Carrara marble adorns the space before the chancel, above the
+burial-slabs of King Frederick William IV., founder of the church, and
+his queen; and the apse is lined with a rare old Venetian mosaic. But
+the chief interest of this "Church of Peace" will henceforth centre
+around it as the burial-place of the Emperor Frederick III. In an
+apartment not formerly shown to the public, his young son, Waldemar,
+was laid to rest at the age of eleven years, deeply mourned by the
+Crown Prince, the Crown Princess, and their family. Here in this
+church, beside his sons Waldemar and Sigismund, who died in infancy,
+it was the wish of the dying father to lie buried. Here the quiet
+military funeral service was held; here the last look of that noble
+face was taken amid the tears of those who loved him well, while the
+sunlight, suddenly streaming through an upper window, illuminated as
+with an electric light that face at rest, as the Court-preacher Koegel
+uttered the words of solemn trust,--
+
+    "What God doeth is well done."
+
+Fitting it is that in this "Church of Peace" should rest all that was
+mortal of the immortal Prince who could say, as he entered Paris in
+the flush of victory: "Gentlemen, I do not like war. If I should
+reign, I would never make it."
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+MUSEUMS.
+
+
+The chief art treasures of Berlin are found in the Royal Museums, Old
+and New, and in the National Gallery. There are few more
+characteristic and inspiring sights in Europe than that which greets
+the eye in a walk on a sunny afternoon in winter from the palace of
+Kaiser Wilhelm I. through the Operahaus Platz and the Zeughaus Platz,
+across the Schloss Bruecke and the Lustgarten, to the peerless building
+of the Old Museum,--with the grand equipages, the brilliant uniforms,
+and the busy but not overcrowded life which throng the vast spaces of
+these handsome thoroughfares. The Old Museum is not so rich in
+masterpieces as some other and older art galleries, but there are many
+fine original works. The Friezes from the Altar of Zeus, excavated
+within a few years at Pergamus, are extremely interesting, and are
+exhibited with all the adjuncts which the most thorough German
+scholarship can supply for their elucidation. The celebrated Raphael
+tapestry, woven for Henry VIII. from the cartoons now in the South
+Kensington Museum, and long the foremost ornament of the palace of
+Whitehall, hangs in the great upper rotunda, which is a setting not
+unworthy of its fame. Michael Angelo's "John the Baptist as a Boy,"
+one of his early works, is quite unlike most of this master's work, in
+conception and execution, and is interesting especially on this
+account. The "Altar-piece of the Mystic Lamb" is remarkable for its
+merits and because it is reputed to be the first picture ever painted
+in oils. Murillo's "Ecstasy of Saint Anthony" is a picture of rare
+sweetness and power. In one room are five of Raphael's Madonnas, but
+only one of them is in his better style. "The collection of pictures
+in the Old Museum," wrote George Eliot in 1855, "has three gems which
+remain in the imagination,--'Titian's Daughter,' Correggio's 'Jupiter
+and Io,' and his 'Head of Christ on a Handkerchief.' I was pleased,
+also, to recognize among the pictures the one by Jan Steem which
+Goethe describes in the 'Wahlverwandschaften' as the model of a
+_tableau vivant_ presented by Lucian and her friends. It is the
+daughter being reproved by her father, while the mother empties her
+wine-glass."
+
+The department of the Museum known as the Antiquarium has its
+treasures. Here is the original silver table service, supposed to be
+that of a Roman General, dug up in 1868 near the old German mediaeval
+town of Hildesheim. A handsome copy of this service is among the
+beginnings of Chicago's Art collections. Here are the exquisite
+terra-cotta statuettes from the ancient Grecian Colony of Tanagra,
+which no modern work of plastic art can imitate in grace of form and
+delicacy of color,--dating three or four hundred years before the
+Christian era; and in other rooms, a fabulous collection of jewels,
+and numberless precious vases, illustrating especially the progress of
+Ancient Grecian Art.
+
+The New Museum, connected by a colonnade with the Old, is not, like
+it, remarkable for architectural beauty; but its vast collections,
+especially in marble, already need and are to have a new building.
+The masterpieces of ancient sculpture gathered at Munich, Vienna,
+Paris, Rome, Naples, and elsewhere, are here reproduced in casts,
+making up a collection said to be, in its way, unrivalled in the
+world. The collection of originals in Renaissance sculpture is also
+extensive and valuable.
+
+Referring to sculpture in Berlin, George Eliot wrote: "We went again
+and again to look at the Parthenon Sculptures, and registered a vow
+that we would go to feast on the originals [in the British Museum] the
+first day we could spare in London." At the date before mentioned, her
+opinion was that "the first work of art really worth looking at that
+one sees in Berlin is the 'Horse-Tamers' in front of the [Old] palace.
+It is by a sculptor [Baron Clodt, of St. Petersburg] who made horses
+his especial study; and certainly, to us, they eclipsed the famous
+Colossi at Monte Cavallo, casts of which are in [before] the New
+Museum."
+
+The Department of Coins has 200,000 specimens, many very old and rare;
+and that of Northern Antiquities illustrates with great fulness the
+prehistoric and Roman periods. The Cabinet of Engravings is extremely
+interesting, and has some specimens of very great value; but it is
+open to the general public for a few hours on Sunday only, and even
+then the greater part of its collections is reserved to art students,
+who have the entire monopoly of its treasures on other days of the
+week. It well repays persistent effort, however, to make a few quiet
+visits to this rare cabinet. Some of the finest works are hung on the
+walls of the pleasant rooms.
+
+The famous mural paintings by Kaulbach adorning the upper staircase
+walls of the New Museum are widely admired, but critics differ in the
+estimate of their place as works of art. The upper saloons reached by
+this staircase show the cartoons of Cornelius, and foreshadow a
+grandeur in German art not yet realized.
+
+The third building in the group which holds the chief art treasures of
+Berlin is the National Gallery, its pictures partaking, as such a
+collection should, strongly of the German spirit as shown in modern
+German art. The paintings are of various degrees of merit, many being
+of value chiefly as reflecting the national life. A fine portrait of
+Mommsen arrested me, on one visit; a striking picture, "Christ healing
+a Sick Child in its Mother's Arms," by Gabriel Max, was a continual
+favorite; and many others were among those to which we went frequently
+and before which we lingered long.
+
+The crowning excellence of all the Royal Art Collections is their
+singular method and completeness. The Old Museum, especially, in its
+arrangement and illustration of the history of painting in all
+schools, is without a peer, and it is particularly rich in the early
+Italian masters. The National Gallery in London has been compared in
+arrangement with the Berlin Museum, but our observation showed nowhere
+else in Europe so great facility for systematic study of art as here.
+
+Quite recently, a writer in the "London Art Journal," in comparing
+European art galleries, characterizes the Italian galleries, except
+the Pitti, as mere storehouses of pictures, so great have been the
+accessions, in late years, of altar-pieces from suppressed convents;
+while, on the other hand, the Louvre, and the galleries of Munich,
+Dresden, Vienna, St. Petersburg, and Madrid still retain their
+original characteristics as collections made by persons of taste and
+discrimination. "The Berlin Gallery," says this writer, "is neither a
+storehouse nor a collection. It stands on a footing of its own. The
+studious and organizing Prussian mind soon handed over the management
+of all its collections to a body of specialists, trained to study the
+objects in their keeping and to arrange them not so much for the
+delight as for the information of a studious public. The Berlin
+Gallery has been thus arranged, and its additions have been purchased
+under the direction of scholars and historians rather than artists and
+_dilettanti_. Historical sequence and historical completeness have
+been aimed at. The collection is intended to exemplify the development
+of the art of painting in mediaeval and renascence Europe. It is
+impossible to enter the Museum gallery and not be struck with this
+fact. The visitor finds himself turned into a student of the history
+of painting, as he wanders from room to room. The ordering of the
+pictures, the information contained in the catalogue,--everything
+points in the same direction. So clearly has the Museum come to be
+understood at Berlin as a kind of art-history branch of a university,
+that a portion of the funds devoted to it is annually spent upon the
+publication of a periodical universally recognized as the leading
+magazine in the world devoted to the history of art. By means of it,
+students in all countries are informed from year to year of the new
+acquisitions and discoveries made by the staff of the Museum, or by
+the leading authors and students of the subject, of all nationalities.
+The Berlin collection has thus won for itself a place as the
+historical collection _par excellence_."
+
+The Museums are under the care of a Director-General, with nine or
+more Directors of Departments. Dr. Julius Meyer, Director of the
+Picture-Gallery, is said to be probably unequalled by any living
+writer for a wide and philosophic grasp of the whole subject of Art
+History, to which his life has been devoted; while the names of
+distinguished scholars and professors at the head of the other
+departments are guaranties of similar excellence. A series of four
+illustrated volumes is now in process of publication, which will
+present, in photographs and engravings, large or small, every picture
+of importance in the gallery. The text of these volumes, by Drs. Meyer
+and Bode, will be extremely valuable, and the whole will doubtless
+stand foremost among publications designed as exponents of European
+galleries.
+
+The fine and massive building of the Arsenal, opposite the palace of
+the late Crown Prince, dates from the time of Frederick I., last of
+the Electors and first of the Prussian Kings. The grand sculptures of
+the German artist Schlueter, who was afterwards called to the aid of
+Peter the Great in the creation of St. Petersburg, adorn the exterior
+of the edifice. Any chance walk along the Linden will arrest the
+attention to this building, with the remarkable heads of dying
+warriors carved in the keystones of its window arches. In the
+renovation of the Arsenal a few years since, no improvement was made
+on the exterior, except to remove the accumulations of smoke and dust
+which a hundred and seventy years had deposited there. After the close
+of the Franco-Prussian War, it was the thought of the aged Emperor to
+make this Arsenal, already crowded with an immense collection of arms,
+armor, and trophies, into a kind of Walhalla,--a National Hall of
+Fame. This was fully carried out. In rooms on the ground floor one may
+read the whole history of ordnance, old and new, including the famous
+Armstrong and Krupp guns. A portion of this floor is devoted to models
+of fortresses, plans of battles, and captured flags. There is a war
+library; and the celebrated pictures of the Giant Grenadiers, painted
+with his own hand by Frederick William I., father of Frederick the
+Great, are also to be seen.
+
+A magnificent double staircase under a glass roof leads to the second
+floor (in Germany called the first), where one portion is devoted to
+an interesting collection of arms, which is, however, inferior to
+those of one or two other European cities. The chief attraction to the
+visitor, as well as a permanent magnet to the patriotic Berlinese, who
+come hither in whole families, is the "Hall of Fame," consisting of
+three sections, all splendid in mosaic floors and massive marble
+pillars, and adorned with sculpture and fine historical frescos. One
+of the latter represents the Coronation of the first King of Prussia
+at Koenigsberg, and another has for its subject the Proclamation of the
+German Empire at Versailles. The Central Hall is adorned with bronze
+statues of the Great Elector, of the Fredericks and Frederick-Williams
+of the Prussian royal line, and of the Emperor William I. The "Halls
+of the Generals," on either side of this "Hall of the Rulers," have
+busts of the military leaders, including a fine one of the Crown
+Prince. Here are also several historical paintings; prominent among
+which are "The Battle of Turin," "The Emperor William and the Crown
+Prince at Koeniggraetz," and "The Capitulation at Sedan."
+
+Perhaps no collection, among many more which might be mentioned,
+better illustrates the practical working of the German mind than the
+Royal Post Museum in the Leipziger Strasse. Here is shown everything
+of interest connected with the transmission of intelligence, and
+poetry as well as prose has entered into the heart of this Government
+exhibit. On the walls of the first saloon entered by the visitor are
+copies in stone of Assyrian bas-reliefs showing a warrior with chariot
+and arrows. This suggests to us a scene in the lives of David and
+Jonathan; but communication by means of arrows is probably much older
+than the time of David. Earlier than even the Assyrian stone must have
+been the model for the Egyptian wicker and wooden post-chariot. In
+this room, under a glass case, is an exquisite marble statuette, found
+at Tanagra, of a Grecian girl seated, and writing on a tablet; and not
+far away is a Roman warrior, carrying his message. Entering the next
+hall, we pass a beautiful bronze statue of Philip, the Grecian
+soldier, bearing a laurel spray, stretching his athletic limbs in
+breathless strides as he goes toward the capital to announce the
+battle of Marathon, and to fall dead on his entrance to the city, with
+the single word "Victory!" on his lips. Here on the walls are four
+emblematic pictures: "The Land-Post," representing a knight with a
+sealed missive in his hand, standing beside and curbing his fiery
+steeds; "The Sea-Post," showing a mail-carrier on the back of a
+dolphin in the midst of stormy waves far out at sea; "The Telegraph,"
+with Jove and his lightnings as its central figure: and "The
+_Rohrpost_,"--a maiden, blowing into an orifice with "the breath of
+all the winds." This last is emblematic of that postal arrangement in
+Berlin by which letters and postal cards are sent with great speed
+through pneumatic tubes from which the air is exhausted by means of
+pumps, and which makes it possible to receive a written message from a
+distant part of the city within a few minutes after it is written.
+
+Among the ancient representations are models of the boats in which the
+old Norsemen sailed the seas, and of those by which our Anglo-Saxon
+ancestors invaded England from Germany. These are strikingly
+contrasted, in their simplicity and clumsiness, with a fully equipped
+model, from four to six feet long, of a modern North German Lloyd
+Atlantic mail steamship, than which no better equipped boat sails the
+main. One goes on, past a Gobelin tapestry representing a mail-scene
+at Nueremberg in the Middle Ages, through long halls and corridors
+where are hundreds of models of post-office buildings of the most
+convenient and approved plans, in all parts of the world. These are of
+every variety of architecture, from the great general post-office in
+London, the handsome Hanover post-office building, those of the
+central and district post-offices in Berlin, Dresden, Cologne,
+Heidelberg, and many others in South Germany, to the modern edifices
+which adorn, and yet seem strangely out of keeping with, the
+picturesque old North German towns. These models are miniature copies
+of the exteriors of post-office buildings, varying in length from one
+and a half to six or eight feet, and of corresponding height. One most
+interesting model shows the interior of a modern post-office, each
+floor showing an exact copy of its department of the service, with
+all appliances and conveniences.
+
+In another room are miniature mail-coaches of different kinds. In the
+centre of this apartment stands a life-size figure of a mail-carrier
+in Germany of four hundred years ago. He is a wild-looking official,
+reminding one by his bronzed features and general appearance of some
+trusty Indian scout, as he holds his gun in an attitude of suspicion
+and menace, while a bear-cub opens a capacious mouth at his feet.
+
+Model mail and post-office cars occupy the side of another large room;
+but this exhibit is so vast and varied that the memory refuses to
+retain its classification, and holds side by side Alaskan sledges
+drawn by dogs, Russian post-chaises with reindeer teams, mail-boats on
+Norwegian fiords, carrier-pigeons and balloons, camels and elephants,
+and the model mail-coach of the lightning express of the New York
+Central Railroad. The working appliance used in America for catching
+off a mail-bag without stopping the train attracts much attention.
+There is a complete set of the weights and measures used in British
+post-offices, and two glass cases show the forms of horseshoes best
+adapted to the speed of horses carrying mails. Tablets, pens, and
+pencils have cases to themselves, as well as parchments, ancient rolls
+and ink-horns, reeds and papyrus. Here are the primitive postal
+arrangements of some of the East Indies; there is the yellow satin
+missive with a scarlet seal which carries the royal mandates of Siam.
+Pictures and models of mail-carrying elephants come next, their gay
+saddle-cloths filled with pockets and parchment rolls. A model of a
+Japanese post-office is finished in all its interior with the
+perfection of detail and delicacy of execution which characterize the
+best Japanese work. A framed engraving of the International Postal
+Congress at Berne in 1874 hangs near one of the Congress at Paris in
+1878. There is a room devoted to the exhibition of postal stamps,
+cards, and envelopes of every kind, and there are several rooms where
+models of the most approved kinds of telegraphic apparatus are shown.
+In a corridor are all varieties of submarine cables, with the ore and
+the Bessemer steel of which they are spun. In one of the rooms a small
+crowd is collected about an operator who speaks through a telephone,
+records the sound of his own voice on strips of foil, which he tears
+into fragments and distributes to those who eagerly reach for them. In
+the centre of this room there is a tiny circular railway, with a
+coach, but no locomotive, standing on the track. By turning the wheel
+of an electro-magnet the official produces an electric light at the
+extremity of a model burner; then, applying the same power to the
+little railway, propels the coach at a rapid rate by means of the
+invisible agent. One goes forth into the street, past wax figures of
+armed and mounted mail-messengers in the Middle Ages, past the model
+street mail-boxes and carriages which help to make so wonderful the
+Berlin postal arrangements, in a maze at what may here be seen in a
+single half-hour of the history of mail-carrying in all lands and
+ages. The originator of this "Post Museum" is Dr. Stephan, the
+inventor of the postal card and the chief promoter of the
+International Postal Union. His is the "power behind the throne" which
+has made the German postal system a marvel of efficiency, unsurpassed,
+if not unrivalled, in the world.
+
+Less known to travellers than many others far inferior in interest, is
+the Hohenzollern Museum, occupying the Monbijou Palace in the heart of
+Berlin. This palace, of so much interest to the readers of Carlyle's
+"Frederick the Great," has been transformed into a repository for the
+personal belongings and memorials of the kings and queens of Prussia.
+One or more rooms devoted to each sovereign in historical succession
+make up a fascinating picture of the royal customs of the kingdom for
+two hundred years. Our attention was called to this museum by an
+English resident, but its interest far exceeded our expectations. Here
+are the laces, jewels, and often the entire wardrobes of the
+Hohenzollern queens, with their writing desks and tablets,
+jewel-cases, embroidery, work-baskets, mirrors, beds, and other
+furniture; and the kings have each their own apartment likewise,
+tenanted by their "counterfeit presentments" in wax, sitting or
+standing in the very clothes they wore, and surrounded by visible
+mementos of the life they used to live. The glittering eyes and
+mundane expression of Frederick William I., father of Frederick the
+Great, give one a strange feeling, and the chairs and table of his
+"Tobacco College" must have a vivid interest for every reader of
+Carlyle's "Frederick." But when we entered the rooms containing the
+many mementos of the Great Frederick himself, from his effigy in the
+cradle and his baby shoes, and threaded all the vicissitudes of that
+strangely fascinating life by the help of its visible surroundings,
+and finally stood before the glass case containing a mask of his dead
+face and hand surrounded by its laurel wreath, the spell of the past
+was at its height. It was a bright sunny afternoon, and the golden
+light came in long slanting lines through windows opening on Monbijou
+gardens, beautiful even in winter, and lay upon the tessellated floors
+of the corridors in patterns of shining glory. The chat and laughter
+of young companions floated from adjoining rooms, and the foot of the
+guard fell softly in the marble halls. But a kind of awe born of that
+wonderful past had taken possession of me. I was alone with the spirit
+of the Great Monarch, and it was more than could be borne. We hurried
+away from the spot, as when children we fled from fancied ghosts. To
+one in search of a genuine sensation, we recommend the reading (with
+judicious skipping) of Carlyle's "Frederick the Great," and a visit,
+alone or with a single companion, to the Hohenzollern Museum.
+
+Upwards of twenty years ago, German trade was falling behind in the
+best markets of the world, because the products of German industry
+were largely poor in quality and deficient in artistic value. With the
+Duke of Ratisbon, President of the Herrenhaus, as chairman of a
+committee appointed to consider the subject, a few leading minds
+combined in a movement which issued in the establishment of the
+Industrial Art Museum. The Crown Prince and the Crown Princess were
+much interested in the subject, and gave the plan their hearty
+support. Less than ten years since, the fine new building in Zimmer
+Strasse near Koeniggraetzer was opened on the birthday of the Crown
+Princess, to receive the vast treasures accumulated, by gift, loan,
+and purchase, for the permanent exhibition. A cursory visit, though
+most interesting, is sometimes bewildering from the extent and variety
+of the collection. The centre of the edifice consists of a large
+court, roofed with glass and surrounded by two galleries. This is the
+place reserved for loan exhibitions, and several of importance have
+already been held here. One of the earlier was of some of the
+treasures of the South Kensington Museum, loaned by Queen Victoria.
+Opening upon these arcades are numerous halls on the lower floor,
+devoted to the permanent exhibition. The classification of the objects
+exhibited, if not loose, is very general, seeming to us inferior to
+the method which makes the South Kensington a delight, whether one has
+hours or months in which to visit it. On the ground floor of this
+Berlin Museum are "objects in the making of which fire is not used."
+This includes domestic and ecclesiastical furniture of different
+countries and historical periods, musical instruments, tapestries,
+carvings in ivory and wood, and many other objects widely separated in
+thought. A fine exhibit is made of articles in amber wrought by
+workmen of rich old Dantzic, for which Baltic Germany furnishes the
+raw material. The ancient Italian carved bridal-chests brought vividly
+to mind our childhood's favorite story of Ginevra, by chance
+imprisoned in such a chest on the day which was to have witnessed her
+marriage.
+
+The upper floor, with an arrangement similar to that of the lower,
+shows "objects in the manufacture of which fire is necessary." The
+very extensive collection of pottery and porcelain was surpassed, in
+our observation, only by that at Sevres; and there are many rare and
+valuable specimens of work in glass and metals. The ancient municipal
+silver service of the city of Lueneberg, bought at a cost of $165,000,
+deserves the attention it attracts; and the work of German mediaeval
+goldsmiths--particularly of the famous Augsburg artisans--is a
+revelation of the possibilities of human handiwork. Stained glass, of
+much historic and artistic value, fills the windows of the entire
+building. The specimens of textile fabrics, in completeness and
+extent, are matchless, and are so arranged as to afford the utmost
+facility to students of the history of this important subject, as well
+as great pleasure to the favored visitor who has the opportunity to
+inspect them.
+
+This "Kuenstgewerbe Museum" is open to the public without charge on
+three days of the week, and for a small fee on the remaining days;
+while its valuable industrial library may be freely consulted on four
+week-day evenings. Its influence is already strongly felt along the
+lines of trade and industry throughout the Empire.
+
+The great Ethnographical Museum adjoining, on the corner of
+Koeniggraetzer Strasse, has the kind and variety of objects usually
+found in such exhibitions, including those connected with several
+races of American Indians. The other departments were, to us, eclipsed
+in interest by the Schliemann exhibition of Trojan remains on the
+ground floor. Here we found, on the walls, framed pencil or India ink
+sketches of the localities where the earlier excavations were made,
+plans of the work, sections of the unearthed portions, and the
+precious old Trojan antiquities themselves, deposited here for
+inspection and safe keeping.
+
+The Maerkische Museum, in the Fisch Markt, a centre of Old Berlin,
+illustrates the history and the prehistoric times of the Mark of
+Brandenburg, including an interesting department of curiosities from
+the lake-dwellings and tumuli. There are also ancient coins and other
+objects picked up at different times within the province. One of the
+later treasures of this unique museum is the box from which the monk
+Tetzel sold the indulgences which fanned into a flame the rising fires
+of the Reformation.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+THE GERMAN REICHSTAG AND THE PRUSSIAN PARLIAMENT.
+
+
+The Reichstag, or Imperial Diet of the German Empire, was, during our
+stay in Berlin, a focus for the eyes of all Europe and America. The
+Government, professedly actuated by a fear of war, asked for an
+appropriation, largely to increase the army annually for a term of
+seven years. This House of Deputies, elected by the people and
+numbering nearly four hundred members, contained a considerable
+element of opposition to the Government. The debate over the Army Bill
+brought Chancellor Bismarck up from his distant country-seat, where he
+had spent several previous months, to a participation in the contest
+which was anticipated on both sides with eagerness and solicitude.
+
+The building on Leipziger Strasse, as severe in inner details as in
+the sombre gray of its outer walls, was hastily constructed in 1871
+for the accommodation of the newly consolidated German Empire, and has
+long been inadequate to the need. A single gallery surrounds three
+sides of the hall, and is occupied on the right by boxes for the
+Imperial household, the diplomatic corps, and high officials. The left
+is appropriated to English and American visitors; and the centre,
+immediately above the desk of the presiding officer and the elevated
+seats of the Chancellor and members of the Bundesrath, is alone left
+for the general public. When the new building near the Thiergarten
+shall be occupied, it is hoped that greatly improved acoustics and
+ventilation may be secured, and the accommodations for visitors such
+that it may not be said that there are Germans in Berlin who have for
+years desired visitors' tickets of admission without having been able
+to secure them.
+
+By a singular good fortune, our tickets gave us seats for this debate
+in full view of the leaders of each of the great parties. On the
+first day the Prime Minister made his great speech, and on the second
+day thereafter, Richter, the leader of the progressive party, took up
+the speech point by point, and with bold and vigorous oratory for two
+hours held the attention of all to his own opposing views. A man of
+robust physique, still in the prime of life, Richter's dark complexion
+and facial expression give the impression of "staying qualities"
+formidable as lasting. The session opened at eleven o'clock A.M., and
+the veteran General and Field-Marshal Von Moltke was the first
+speaker. His rising was the signal for a general hush, and for about a
+quarter of an hour all listened in breathless silence. Half the width
+of the hall from the observer, his more than eighty years seemed to
+sit lightly on "the great taciturnist;" and his fair complexion, fine
+brow, thin face, and singular firmness of mouth have the fascination
+of genius. Later, during the long and sometimes denunciatory speech of
+Richter, he seemed wearied. Rising from his seat in the front rank of
+the Conservatives on the extreme right, he moved to the rear, stood in
+the aisle, took a vacant seat,--resting by various changes for
+fifteen or twenty minutes; but when, between one and two o'clock, the
+time for Bismarck's entrance approached, he returned to his own seat
+and thenceforth listened attentively. Like the aged Emperor, Von
+Moltke's age was most apparent in his movements. Sitting or standing,
+he was the graceful, well-bred gentleman, as well as the dignified
+chief of the German army. In walking, his movement is slow, and
+lacking vigor to a marked degree. The offer of the Opposition to vote
+for the bill with a term of one, two, or even three years, while
+declaring that they could not vote for seven, was haughtily received
+by the Prime Minister, who had already given his reasons, supported by
+the Emperor, by Von Moltke, and other eminent military authority, for
+adhering to the longer term. "I will not abate a hair's breadth of the
+septenate," said he. "If you do not vote it, I prefer to deal with
+another Reichstag." This on the second day of the debate. On the third
+day Bismarck replied to some of the positions of the Opposition, in a
+speech of three quarters of an hour, immediately following his
+opponent, Richter. The latter, and the members on the left included in
+the three great divisions of the Liberal party, retired from the hall
+at the conclusion of Richter's two hours' speech; but the centre, or
+Catholic party, among whom were several priests and a number of very
+keen and watchful physiognomies, remained in their seats, as well as
+the Conservatives of both grades. Soon Richter was back, though
+without his supporters. Fumbling a moment at his desk for pencil and
+paper, he stepped forward in the aisle, so as not to lose the
+sentences of Bismarck (occasionally somewhat indistinct), and refusing
+to be diverted for more than an instant by the communications of
+friends and officials. Cries of _Ja wohl! Ja wohl!_ and _Bravo!_ were
+heard from the right during the speech of Bismarck, with now and again
+a general ripple of laughter at some pleasantry accessible to the
+German mind; but these were much outdone in heartiness by the applause
+which frequently interrupted Richter when speaking. There is a
+massiveness about this scene which rises up in memory with a vividness
+greater, if possible, than the reality made on our excited and wearied
+endurance during the hours we spent there. Later, Windhorst, the
+leader of the Roman Catholic party, made a memorable speech. The dozen
+great electric lights depending from the ceiling were extinguished
+when the early afternoon sun faintly struggled with the clouds for
+entrance through the skylight which forms the entire roof of the room,
+except those left burning near the seats of Bismarck and Von Moltke,
+which brought these foremost figures into strong relief. Prince
+William--now Emperor--and the gentlemen of his party were in gay
+uniforms in the Imperial box, and the diplomatic box was lighted
+mainly by the diamonds of the ladies who sat there; while the crowded
+ranks of the other galleries were in dim twilight. It was a picture to
+remain in history. The bill was lost. In less than twenty-four hours
+after we left the Reichstag, Bismarck had read his summary dissolution
+of the Diet, and before another sunset the hall was closed and silent.
+The Iron Chancellor had made his appeal to the country. The war-cloud
+was heavy over Europe, and great was the excitement in Berlin. Under
+fear of a bolt which might strike at any moment, the elections for a
+new Chamber were held, and Bismarck had his will.
+
+The Reichstag is the representative body of the whole German Empire,
+with its four kingdoms, six grand duchies, and sixteen lesser
+principalities and powers united under one emperor. Prussia is a
+kingdom which forms but one, though the most important, of these
+constituent parts. The Reichstag is a kind of Upper and Lower House in
+one; the Bundesrath or Federal Council, with somewhat arbitrary
+powers, has its private Council-room; but the Chancellor of the Empire
+is its presiding officer, and, with the members of this Council,
+occupies the elevated platform at the right of the President of the
+Reichstag. The chief function of the latter as a legal Chamber of
+Deputies is to check the power of the Bundesrath. It can thus reject
+bills and refuse appropriations, but has no power to bring about a
+change of administration.
+
+The Prussian Diet is composed of two separate houses. The building of
+the Lower House--the Abgeordnetenhaus--is near the eastern extremity
+of the Leipziger Strasse, and the House of Lords--Herrenhaus--is
+adjacent to the Reichstag-Gebaude. The Prussian Lower House is
+somewhat larger in numbers than the Reichstag, and is of course an
+elective body. It contained a number of eminent men,--as Herr
+Windhorst, also the leader of the Catholic party in the Reichstag,
+and Professor Virchow. On the day of our visit no business of special
+importance was before the assembly, and visitors' tickets were
+obtained with an ease in pleasing contrast to the most difficult feat
+of obtaining entrance to the Reichstag on a great occasion.
+
+The House of Lords is reputed a dull place, and is seldom visited. In
+a dwelling formerly occupying this site (No. 3 Leipziger Strasse), and
+of which some memorials remain, Felix Mendelssohn spent, with his
+parents and sister Fanny, several years of his wonderful youth; and
+the "Gartenhaus" of this estate witnessed the memorable private
+performance of the work which first revealed his greatness to the
+world,--the "Overture to the Midsummer Night's Dream."
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+PROMINENT PERSONAGES.
+
+
+"I love my Emperor," said "our little Fraeulein," laying her hand on
+her heart, one day when we were talking of him.
+
+It was on our first day in Germany that we, returning from church a
+little after noon, were kindly greeted by an American lady who saw
+that we were strangers. "The Emperor lives on this street," she said;
+"and if we hasten, we may see him when he comes to the window to
+review his Guards." Soon we were before the palace on Unter den
+Linden, a substantial-looking building facing the north, with an
+eastern exposure. The Imperial standard was floating over the palace,
+denoting the presence of his Majesty. The room on the ground floor,
+northeast corner, of the palace is the one used by Emperor William I.
+as his study; and one back of this was his bedroom, containing the
+simple iron cot which was the companion of his soldier days, and which
+remained the couch of his choice to the end of life. At "the historic
+window" we often saw him. Every day at noon, and sometimes long
+before, the crowd began to gather in the street opposite this window,
+for a sight of his Majesty when he came for a moment to review his
+Guards at a quarter to one. It was touching to see the devotion of the
+people, standing patiently in all weathers; mothers and fathers
+holding up their children that they might catch a sight of the
+idolized Kaiser. Rarely did he disappoint them. As the military music
+of the guard drew near, and the tramp of the soldiers fell on the
+pavement before the palace, the aged man would appear at the window in
+full uniform of dark blue with scarlet trimmings and silver
+epaulettes, returning the salutations of the guard, and bowing and
+waving his white-gloved hand to the people, then retiring within the
+shadow of the lace curtains. Sometimes the cheering broke forth anew
+as he was lost to sight, and the welkin was made to ring with the
+Kaiser-song, or some hymn of Fatherland, until he indulgently appeared
+again, bowing his bald head, his kindly face lighted up with a smile.
+In full-front view he did not look like a man in his ninetieth year.
+Many a man of sixty-five or seventy looks older. When he turned, the
+side view revealed that his form was not erect; but only when he
+walked with a slow movement could one realize that this soldier of
+perfect drill--this courtly gentleman--was one who had seen almost a
+century of life. His earliest memories were of privation and hardship.
+In his young boyhood the First Napoleon held Berlin in his grasp, and
+the family of the King, Frederick William III., fled to Koenigsberg.
+The beautiful and noble Queen Louise and her two little boys,
+afterwards Frederick William IV. and William I., wandered at one time
+in the forests, and made their food of wild berries. They amused
+themselves by making wreaths of _cornblumen_,--blue flowers answering
+closely to our "bachelors' buttons,"--which grow wild everywhere in
+Germany. Thenceforward the _cornblumen_ were dear to the young
+princes, and they were "the Emperor's flowers" to the end of his
+Imperial life. So devoted was he to the memory of his mother, that
+when in his later years he saw a young girl whose striking beauty of
+face and form reminded him of Queen Louise, he persuaded her to allow
+her portrait to be taken, that it might remind him of the mother whom
+he remembered in her youth. This beautiful portrait is bought, by many
+Germans even, as that of Queen Louise, and may be known by a star over
+the forehead. The finest actual portrait of this Queen which we saw
+was, at the time of our visit, in the Old Schloss at Berlin, and
+showed a mature and lovely woman, every inch a queen. The exquisite
+reposing statue, by Rauch, in the Mausoleum at Charlottenburg, over
+her grave, is well known by copies.
+
+The life led by the aged Emperor was simple and methodical to the
+last. Rising at half-past seven, he breakfasted, looked over his
+letters and papers, and was ready by nine or half-past nine to begin
+his reception of officials or other callers, which lasted till after
+midday. After lunch, he usually drove for an hour or so in the
+afternoon, often accompanied by a single aid, bowing right and left to
+the populace, who thronged for a look and a smile. His plain military
+cloak enveloped him in cold or rainy weather, and his was often one of
+the plainest equipages on the brilliant street. "I do not think," said
+General Grant, after having visited the Emperor, "that I ever saw a
+more perfect type of a soldier and a man. His Majesty went off into
+military affairs. I was anxious to change the subject, as I had no
+interest in the technical matters of war. But the Emperor held me to
+the one theme, and we spoke of nothing else. I fancied Bismarck
+sympathized with me, and would have gladly gone off on other subjects,
+but it was of no use. The manner of Bismarck toward the Emperor was
+beautiful,--absolute devotion and respect. This was my one long talk
+with the Emperor. I should call him the embodiment of courage, candor,
+dignity, and simplicity; a strikingly handsome man."
+
+Sometimes the Kaiser would hold up to the palace window his eldest
+great-grandson, now Crown Prince, then a beautiful child of four or
+five years; and the little fellow would go through his military salute
+of the passing guard with great gravity and propriety, while the
+huzzas of the crowd burst forth with renewed zeal. This child was the
+favorite of the aged Emperor, and sometimes took liberties with his
+great-grandsire which would hardly have been tolerated from any one
+else. If it was touching to see the devotion of the people to their
+Emperor, it was no less so to see how he trusted himself with them. He
+could remember when, with the revolutionary spirit of 1848, the mob in
+the streets of Berlin had so insulted him, a prince, that he had fled
+for a time from his country. But that he had forgiven and they had
+forgotten long ago. The times had "changed all that." Now he lived
+daily in sight of the people, with only a pane of glass for a shield.
+He loved his people, and they worshipped him with no temporary
+oblations. One of the last occasions in which we saw him in public was
+that of the spring manoeuvres in the last May-time of his long life.
+
+Some distance south of the Halle gate, the large and finely situated
+"Tempelhofer Feld" extends to the suburban village of Tempelhof, which
+was once the property of the Knights of Malta, and which still bears
+their cross and inscription on its church bells. The intervening
+ground has been devoted to the annual parades of the Berlin garrison
+for more than a hundred years. It has ample room for evolutions of
+infantry, artillery, and cavalry, but a comparatively small space is
+devoted to the accommodation of spectators. Only about three hundred
+carriages can be admitted, and these are distributed among royal
+personages, officials, and a limited number of distinguished or
+fortunate visitors. Our application for a carriage place was duly
+filed with the chief of the Berlin police a month or six weeks in
+advance of the parade, but, after long waiting, word came that there
+was no room. By the courtesy and special thoughtfulness of Secretary
+Crosby, of the United States Legation, a carriage ticket was placed at
+our disposal, after all hope of obtaining the coveted privilege had
+been abandoned.
+
+The German Emperor can place, if need be, nearly three million trained
+soldiers in the field. All able-bodied Germans are liable to service,
+with few exceptions, from the age of twenty to that of thirty-two, and
+can in exceptional circumstances be called out up to the age of
+forty-two. But the German youth spends only the first three years, of
+his twelve of liability, with the colors, the remaining nine being
+spent in different branches of the reserve forces. The effective force
+in time of peace is about half a million, which is distributed
+through the Empire in seventeen army corps, of which the Third has its
+headquarters at Berlin. The ordinary strength of an army corps is
+about thirty thousand, including infantry, cavalry, and artillery; but
+the garrison of Berlin and various extra and unattached troops bring
+the number up to fifty thousand or more, stationed mostly in Berlin
+and Potsdam. These have their spring manoeuvres at Berlin; and the
+special parade, for which every day for two months beforehand seemed
+parade-day in the streets of Berlin, was that for which we were so
+fortunate as to receive tickets. Nearly every day for a week previous,
+his Majesty was to be seen, in his low two-horse carriage, passing
+through the Unter den Linden and south through Friedrich Strasse, to
+the parade-ground. On this grand and final parade-day the three
+hundred carriages of the privileged spectators were in good time on
+the ground assigned them, prepared to welcome the Emperor and the
+Imperial party as loyally as the soldiers themselves. A deafening
+hurrah burst from the throats of all, as his Majesty appeared in a
+carriage and drove to his post of observation. Many of his princely
+retinue, both ladies and gentlemen, were on horseback; and it was
+formerly his custom to review the troops, mounted on his black
+war-horse. In spite of a piercing wind which swept over the wide
+Brandenburg plains, we hugged our warm wraps, and stood in our
+carriages, like all the rest, in eager watchfulness and admiration, as
+the evolutions of the most perfectly drilled troops in the world went
+forward. The infantry marched and countermarched; plumes of all colors
+waved in the sunlight and kept time to the music; uniforms and men
+seemed but part of one grand incomprehensible automatic movement;
+battle-flags scarred with the history of all the wars fluttered their
+tattered shreds in the wind, waking memories of irrepressible pathos
+and joy; the artillery rumbled and thundered; the evolutions of the
+cavalry were like systematic whirlwinds; and the scarlet Zouaves, the
+blue Dragoons, the white-uniformed and gilt-helmeted Cuirassiers, and
+the dark Uhlands with lances ten feet long poised in air above their
+prancing horses, commingled the "pomp and circumstance of war" without
+its pain. Now the infantry come on at double quick, in the step with
+which they entered Paris; now the artillery is lumbered across a vast
+stretch of the field with a rapidity and precision which almost take
+away one's breath; and anon the cavalry seem to burst in orderly
+confusion upon the scene, flying in competition, across, around,
+athwart, until the cheers and huzzas burst forth anew with, "Hail to
+the Kaiser!" "Long live the Fatherland!" It was with joy that the
+soldiers received the commendations of their Imperial chieftain on
+that field-day, and it was to us a fitting place and moment of
+farewell to the great military Emperor.
+
+"King, the Saxon Konnig," says Carlyle,--"the man who CAN." And
+Emperor William I. was the man who _could_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Fritz, dear Fritz," were the last words of the aged Emperor. "Unser
+Fritz" was the well-beloved elder brother of the German people. If any
+doubt as to the real feeling among the South-Germans toward the
+Imperial house had existed in our minds, it was removed as we
+journeyed through Saxony, Bavaria, Wuertemberg, Darmstadt, Thuringia.
+Everywhere, in humble homes, in shops, hotels, and market-places, were
+the likenesses of the handsome Kaiser and the open, sincere, manly
+countenance of the Crown Prince to be seen. In Berlin the Crown Prince
+occupied the palace directly east of that of the Kaiser, separated
+from it only by the Operahaus Platz. We had heard him called "the
+handsomest man in Europe." Our study of his kindly face from
+photographs had revealed manliness enough, but nothing more to justify
+this epithet. But as one came to be familiar with his look, his
+figure, his bearing, there was full assent to his being called, in
+appearance, "the finest gentleman in Europe." The titles and tokens of
+honor that had been showered upon him, and which he wore so
+gracefully, were his least claims to distinction. He was as great in
+true nobility of soul as he was exalted in station, as symmetrical in
+character as he was regal in bearing. When he mated with the Princess
+Royal of England, he was not even Crown Prince of Prussia, and some of
+the English papers asserted that the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria
+had married beneath her. But this opinion was easily dissipated, as
+the years brought, with increasing honors, development of manly
+virtues and graces. A hero in the wars in which his country had
+engaged before he reached middle life, and with all the courage of his
+Hohenzollern blood, he yet delighted in peace, and was a most humane
+and liberal statesman. That thirst for liberty which is quenchless in
+the human breast, and which has had as yet small satisfaction in
+Teutonic lands, seemed to find sympathy in this enlightened Prince. At
+the age of thirty he became the heir apparent to the Prussian Crown,
+when the new king, his father, had reached the age of sixty-four. When
+he was forty, and his father was proclaimed Emperor of Germany at the
+age of seventy-four, Frederick became heir to the Imperial throne. A
+most careful and liberal education, grafted on a genial and wise
+character, had fitted him to watch the course of events in which,
+according to the course of nature, he might be expected so soon to
+take chief part. But the years which made his sire venerable passed,
+and still he had no opportunity to shape public affairs. Absolutism
+feared his influence and that of his liberal and strong-minded English
+wife. The prime of life was his; but his best years were behind and
+not before him as at the age of fifty-five he filially and devotedly
+filled his own place, the loved and loving son of his Imperial father,
+whose trusted representative he was on all courtly occasions, the
+model husband and father, the accomplished and interested patron of
+art and letters, the polished gentleman, the benevolent and devout
+Christian. During his last winter of health (1886-1887) he was often
+to be seen among the people. Accompanied by the Crown Princess and
+their three unmarried daughters, he walked out and in, along the Unter
+den Linden, an interested participator, like any other father of a
+family, in the Christmas shopping. On one of the culminating days of
+the great Reichstag debate, it was Prince William who was seen in the
+Imperial box in the Parliament House, while "Unser Fritz" with wife
+and daughters were skaters among the crowds on the ice-ponds of the
+Thiergarten. This by no means indicated indifference to great
+questions of public concern. None knew better the issue, the times,
+and the need. But, standing all his mature life with his foot on the
+threshold of a throne, with talents and training fitting him to do
+honor to his royal line, to his Fatherland, and to the brotherhood of
+kings in all lands and ages, he yet knew that while the father
+reigned, it was not for the son to reign. He was to bide his time.
+Alas! an inscrutable Providence made that time to be crowned only with
+the halo of a dawning immortality, a time in which strength and peace
+were to be radiated from one anointed by the chrism of pain, and
+whose diadem was to shine, not among the treasures of earth, but as
+the stars for ever and ever. When the messenger of the fallen Napoleon
+III. had brought his unexpected surrender after Sedan, and the flush
+of startling victory had mantled even the cheek of the pale and
+reticent Von Moltke, had shaken the leonine composure of Bismarck, and
+affected the heroic William I. almost to tears, the courtly Frederick
+forgot himself and the victory of the cause he had helped to win, in
+sympathy for the vanquished foe. The embarrassed general who brought
+the surrender of the French had Frederick's instant devotion, and
+those first moments of deep humiliation were soothed by the
+conversation of the Crown Prince and by kind attentions which all
+others forgot to render. With a truth and devotion to his country
+which could never be doubted or questioned, he yet had a heart "so
+much at leisure from itself" that in the supremest moments of life he
+sympathized with friend and foe, as only regal souls can do.
+
+I saw this foremost prince of Europe in the nineteenth century always
+and increasingly to admire him, whether in the largest or the
+smallest relations of life; whether as royal host entertaining the
+sovereigns of Europe and their representatives when that magnificent
+assemblage came to greet the ninetieth birthday of his father; dashing
+on horseback through the streets of the capital and the riding-paths
+of the park; saluting with stately grace his Imperial sire, as he
+alone entered the place where the Emperor sat; handing the Crown
+Princess to her seat, or going down on his knees to find her Imperial
+Highness's misplaced footstool in her pew at church; accompanying his
+daughters to places of public amusement and looking upon them with
+manly tenderness; or standing with military helmet before his face in
+silent prayer, as he entered the house of God to worship before the
+King of kings.
+
+My last sight of his Imperial Highness was on one of the latest
+occasions of his public appearance in Berlin while in health, in
+connection with one of those opportunities of hearing grand music in
+which this city excels the rest of the world. It was that most
+devotional music ever written,--Bach's Passion Music, rendered once a
+year, on the evening of Good Friday, in the Sing Akademie of Berlin.
+There was a trained chorus of about four hundred voices, with the
+best orchestra in the city, besides solo singers of repute,--one, a
+charming alto from Cologne. The simple and touching narrative of the
+Betrayal and the Crucifixion was sung as it is written in the
+twenty-sixth and twenty-seventh chapters of Matthew, certain phrases
+and sentences repeated and adapted to the music, but none of it
+essentially changed in form. One of the bass soloists took, with the
+tenor, the soprano and the alto alternating, most of the narrative;
+and another bass solo took the words of Jesus, whenever these occur in
+the sad story. The _arias_ and _recitatives_ were finely given, but no
+effect was comparable to that of the grand chorus. The single word
+"Barabbas!" sung, or rather shouted, by these hundreds of voices in
+perfect time and tune, was overwhelming. Another passage of most
+thrilling effect was that in which every instrument and every voice
+joined in the deafening but harmonious description of the multitude
+who went out with swords and staves in the midnight, to take the
+unoffending Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane. And one could almost
+hear in the music the sobbing of Peter when, after his denial of the
+Lord, "he went out and wept bitterly." Another most touching passage
+was that representing the love of the woman who anointed the feet of
+Jesus. When the shout of the multitude arose in the words "Crucify
+Him!" the awfulness was intense. There were times when the audience
+scarcely seemed to breathe freely, so strong was the spell, so vivid
+the reality of this saddest and most touching of narratives, as
+interpreted by this wonderful music. Never but once have I heard the
+perfection of choral music. It was one of the grand and solemn ancient
+hymn-tunes which are introduced at certain stages of this composition.
+I closed my eyes to the brilliance of the scene before me, that the
+ear might be the sole avenue of impression. Not the slightest jar or
+dissonance revealed any difference in the four hundred voices speaking
+as one; there seemed but one great soul pouring forth the vast volume
+of the harmony. The mighty cadences rose and fell, breaking in waves
+of sound against walls and roof, and must have floated far out into
+the night, now soaring in triumph, now sweet and soft and low as the
+tones of an Eolian harp; but the voice of hundreds was only as the
+voice of one. Three hours and more, with one brief intermission, we
+listened, and lived as it were those last sad hours of the Life so
+sacred and so majestic, so unutterably full of love. The end came,
+when the stone was rolled against the sealed door of the sepulchre,
+and the Roman watch was set. No hint of a resurrection was in the
+music; but the singers sang, in closing, again and again, in varying
+strains, "Good-night, good-night, dear Jesus!"
+
+The audience, moved as it seemed by a common impulse, joined in that
+last song. The Crown Prince, with the Crown Princess and their
+daughters, and the Princess Christian, then on a visit to Berlin, were
+in the royal box in the concert-room. With his family and his royal
+visitors, Frederick, his voice already in the penumbra of a dim,
+unknown, unforeseen, but fateful shadow, took up the strain. "He sang
+it through," said a friend to me, who knew him well, "and I could see
+that he was deeply touched." There we left the story, as almost
+nineteen hundred years ago it was left, on that Friday evening in
+Jerusalem, with the full light of the Paschal moon falling on the
+closed and silent tomb, in the garden of Joseph of Arimathea.
+
+Two days later, on the evening of Easter Sunday, the Crown Prince
+united in the service of the English Church, with his family, in
+celebrating the joyous anniversary of a sure resurrection, and during
+the same week left Berlin in quest of rest and health. He came not
+back until, before another Good Friday, "Unser Fritz" was Emperor of
+Germany, and already walking through the Valley of that Shadow in
+which he sorrowfully sung of his "dear Jesus," one short year before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Various estimates have been made of the talents and character of the
+third of the three German Emperors of the year 1888, but the record
+and the proof of all prophecies concerning William II. have yet to be
+made. As Prince William we saw him with best opportunity in the
+Imperial box at the Reichstag, where for three hours he listened
+intently to the speeches of Bismarck, Von Moltke, and others. A fair
+young man, in the heavily ornamented light blue uniform of his
+regiment, to a casual observer his countenance bore neither the marks
+of dissipation nor the signs of intellectual power and force of
+character. But he was only in the late twenties, and "there is time
+yet." He is the idol of the army, and the devoted friend of Bismarck.
+Not one of all the great concourse of dignitaries at the celebration
+of the ninetieth birthday of William I. received such shouts of
+adulation from the populace as those which rent the air when the State
+carriage passed which bore the Prince and Princess William and their
+three little sons. Of the Princess William, now Empress Augusta
+Victoria, there was but one opinion. "None will ever know the blessing
+which the Princess William has been to our family," once said her
+father-in-law, the Crown Prince Frederick. From the throne to the hut,
+blessings followed her, a Christian lady, in faithfulness as wife,
+mother, friend, and princess, worthy of her exalted place. At a
+lawn-party given for the benefit of the Young Men's Christian
+Association, in the magnificent old park of the War Department in the
+heart of Berlin, Prince and Princess William were present. The
+Princess walked up and down, chatting now with one lady, now with
+another, in attire so simple that the plainest there could feel no
+unpleasant contrast, and in manner so beautiful and genial that we
+could forget the princess in admiration of the unassuming lady.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Of the Empress Frederick much has been said, and much invented, since
+the days when she left England, a bride of seventeen, to make her
+home in a foreign land.
+
+"Is the Crown Princess popular?" I said to a young German lady, in the
+early days of our residence in Berlin.
+
+"Not very."
+
+"She is strong-minded, is she not?"
+
+"Yes, too strong," replied the lady.
+
+Perhaps the Crown Princess Victoria did not sufficiently disguise the
+broad difference between her birthright as the heir of the thought and
+feeling of her distinguished father, "Prince Albert the Good," and the
+low plane still habitual to many German women. She has always been an
+Englishwoman; and this was the chief charge I ever heard against her,
+in my endeavor to reach the real statement of the case. And yet all
+agree that she has been devoted to the best interests of the German
+people. Everywhere in humane, benevolent, and educational work, we
+found the impress of her guiding hand. A German lady, of rare ability,
+sweetness, and culture, was one day giving me the pathetic story of
+her hopes and efforts for the elevation and education of her
+country-women. In the course of the conversation she was led to quote
+a remark made to her by the Crown Princess: "You must _form the
+character_ of the German women, before you can do much to elevate
+them." Is not this in keeping with the profound practical wisdom
+which, notwithstanding the puerilities and small femininities which
+abound in some of the published writings of England's royal family,
+makes their pages still worth the reading, and lets us into the secret
+of the true womanliness which, despite all blemishes and foibles,
+Victoria, Empress Queen of England, has instilled into the mind of her
+daughter Victoria, Empress Dowager of Germany. There is hope for
+womankind, when "the fierce light which beats upon a throne" shows
+naught to mar the purity of the home-life which has adorned the
+palaces and the courts of Germany and of England, so far as these have
+been under the influence of the two Victorias.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"When you say 'Germany,'" said our "little Fraeulein" to us one day,
+"nobody is afraid; when you say 'Bismarck,' everybody trembles."
+Reports about the ill health of the Iron Chancellor were, two or three
+years ago, possibly exaggerated, but doubtless they had some
+foundation in fact. Previous to the great debate on the Army Bill, it
+had been said that his physical health was a mere wreck. No sign of
+this appeared, however, when we saw the great Diplomatist in his seat
+in the Reichstag on that memorable occasion. His speech, though
+occasional cadences lapsed into indistinctness in that hall of poor
+acoustic properties, was in the main easily heard in all parts of the
+house. The yellow military collar of his dark blue coat showed his
+pallid face not to advantage, but that fierce look was unsubdued, the
+broad brow loomed above eyes before which one instinctively quails,
+and the pose and movements were those of vigorous health. Every
+afternoon in the ensuing spring, his stout square-shouldered figure
+might be seen, in military uniform and with sword rattling in its
+scabbard, accompanied by a single aid, on horseback, trotting through
+the shaded riding-paths of the Thiergarten,--for the sake of health,
+doubtless, but evidently with no little pleasure. On his birthday in
+April he received, at his palace in the Wilhelm Strasse, the greetings
+of his regiment, to whom he distributed wine and cake and mementos,
+and also saw many other friends. At his country-seats in Pomerania and
+Lauensburg most of his time is spent, divided between the cares of
+State and the enjoyments of a rustic life. On the occasion referred to
+in the Parliament, speaking of the Army Bill which the Opposition
+professed a willingness to grant for three years but not for seven, he
+said, "Three years hence, I may hope to be here; in seven, I shall be
+above all this misery." The three years have not yet passed. For the
+glory of Germany, many will hope that twice seven may find the name of
+Bismarck still inspiring with dread the enemies of his country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+General Von Moltke, the Grant of Germany, might often be seen, by
+those who knew when and where to look for him, in plain dress, walking
+along Unter den Linden, or through the city edge of the Thiergarten,
+near the building of the General Staff, of which he was long the Chief
+and where he lives. This most eminent student of the art of war lives
+a seemingly lonely life since the death of his wife, whose portrait is
+said to be the chief adornment of his private room. He is fond of
+music, and an open piano is his close companion in hours of leisure.
+His plain carriage is seen but seldom by sojourners in Berlin. His
+words need not to be many to be weighty, and his influence was great
+with Emperor William I. and Crown Prince Frederick, whose tutor he had
+been. No scene after the death of Frederick III. was more affecting
+than Von Moltke in tears over his bier. "Never before," said an
+officer who had long known the great general, "have I seen Von Moltke
+so broken up."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+General Von Waldersee has, by the recent retirement of Von Moltke,
+become Chief of the German Army Staff. The Countess Von Waldersee,
+closely related by her first marriage to the present Empress, is a
+devout Christian lady, an American by birth, and has much influence in
+the German Court. Her most romantic history is known to many since,
+the daughter of a wealthy New York merchant, she went abroad some
+twenty-five years ago, met and married a wealthy Schleswig-Holstein
+baron, by which marriage she became related to more than one royal
+house in Europe; was soon left a youthful widow with great wealth, and
+after a few years, in which she maintained the estate and title of an
+Austrian Princess also bequeathed her by her first husband, married
+the German nobleman who is now the head of the German army. She is
+devoted to her home, her husband and children, and to quiet ways of
+doing good. Her dazzling history is her least claim on the interest of
+American women. A noble character, devoted consistently in her high
+station to the service of God and to even the humblest good of her
+fellow-creatures, gives regal lustre to her name, which is a synonym
+for goodness to all who know her.
+
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+THE NINETIETH BIRTHDAY OF EMPEROR WILLIAM.
+
+
+To those who are fond of pageants and who linger lovingly with past
+ages, such a spectacle as Berlin witnessed on the 22d of March, 1887,
+must have extraordinary attractions. Never in the long life of the
+aged Emperor, whose ninetieth birthday it was, had there been in
+splendor a rival to that day, although his whole career was prolific
+of great scenes and dramatic situations. Eighty-five royal personages
+had accepted the invitation to visit the Emperor on that occasion; and
+they came in person, or sent special envoys, each accompanied by a
+more or less imposing retinue. As guests of the Imperial family, they
+were lodged in the various palaces of Berlin and Potsdam, and
+entertained with most thoughtful and sumptuous hospitality. The
+arrivals began on Friday, March 18, and continued through the three
+following days, until the list included the Prince of Wales; the Crown
+Prince of Austria; the Grand Duke and Duchess Vladimir and the Grand
+Duke Michel of Russia; the Crown Prince and Princess of Sweden; the
+King and Queen of Roumania; the King and Queen of Saxony; the Prince
+and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein; the Grand Duke of Hesse
+and his daughter the Princess Irene; the Grand Duchess of Baden; the
+Duke of Saxe-Meiningen; the Hereditary Prince and Princess of
+Mecklenburg-Strelitz; the Duke of Waldeck-Pyrmont, father of the Queen
+of the Netherlands and the Duchess of Albany; the Dowager Grand
+Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin; the Grand Duchess Marie, and a host
+of other royal notables. Costly presents and beautiful flowers had
+been pouring in to the Emperor for days before, from the members of
+his own large family, the various diplomatic corps, from royal
+friends, from learned societies, industrial and philanthropic
+associations, with gifts from China, Turkey, and other distant
+countries. Many of the presents were arranged in a room in the
+Kaiser's palace, the centre-piece being a portrait of his favorite and
+eldest great-grandson painted by the Crown Princess, and surrounded by
+an elegant display of flowers. This palace was reserved for the calls
+of the distinguished guests, and for a State dinner of a hundred
+covers, given to the visiting royalties on the eve of the birthday by
+the Emperor and Empress. The palace of the Crown Prince was decorated
+about the entrance with palms and other exotics. Here the Crown
+Princess entertained the Prince of Wales and the Princess Christian
+with her family,--three children of Queen Victoria under the same
+roof. The Grand Duchess of Baden, only daughter of the Emperor, was
+entertained in the Dutch Palace, connected with the Emperor's by a
+corridor. One of those dramatic touches in real life of which Emperor
+William was fond, was the betrothal of the Princess Irene, daughter of
+the Grand Duke of Hesse and the late Princess Alice of England, to her
+cousin Prince Henry, second son of the Crown Prince. It was announced
+by the Emperor on his birthday, standing in the midst of the assembled
+family, with the foreign princes grouped in a semicircle around, the
+bride-elect leaning on her father's arm and blushingly receiving the
+congratulations of all present. In the two days preceding his
+birthday, the Emperor received not only his royal visitors, but the
+representatives of Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Servia, Japan, and China.
+The Old Schloss, with its six hundred apartments and reception-rooms,
+was used for the entertainment of royal guests. All the sunny south
+windows facing the Schloss Platz rejoiced for days beforehand in open
+draperies and freshly cleaned plate glass, giving an unwonted look of
+cheer and human habitableness to the majestic and venerable pile
+through which we had walked, a few weeks before, with hushed voices
+and muffled footsteps, gazing on the rich decorations of the public
+rooms, the glittering candelabra, the silver balustrades, the ancient
+plate, the historic paintings and monuments which recall past
+centuries and vanished sovereigns.
+
+But the streets witnessed the most memorable scenes. On the eve of the
+birthday a torchlight procession of more than six thousand students
+represented the Universities of Berlin, Bonn, Heidelberg, Jena,
+Koenigsberg, Leipzig, Marburg, Munich, Strasburg, and others; the
+Polytechnic Schools of Berlin, Brunswick, Darmstadt, Dresden, Hanover,
+Karlsruhe, and Stuttgardt; the Mining Academies of Berlin, Clausthal,
+and Freiberg; and the Agricultural Schools of Berlin, Eberswalde, and
+Tharandt. Opposite the Imperial Palace stands the University,--formerly
+the palace of Prince Henry,--amid old trees and gardens, and with the
+fine colossal statues of the brothers Humboldt in white marble, sitting
+on massive pedestals on either side the main gateway. This was the
+starting-point of the great procession, which was led by two mounted
+students in the garb of Wallenstein's soldiers. Five abreast the
+torch-bearers approached the Emperor's palace, and before his windows
+the Ziethen Hussars wheeled in and out in mystic evolutions. A
+labyrinthine series of movements, marked in the darkness only by the
+flaming torches, was executed in perfect silence; then a simple hymn of
+the Middle Ages was sung with singular effect by these thousands of
+young and manly voices; and from the silence which succeeded, at the
+call of a student standing in the midst and waving his sword above his
+head, there arose a "Three cheers for the Emperor!" while six thousand
+torches swung to and fro, and hundreds of flags and ancient banners
+waved in the evening air. Again there was silence, when one struck the
+National Anthem, which was sung with all heads uncovered, the aged hero
+bowing low at his window in acknowledgment until emotion obliged him to
+withdraw. An incident soon on every tongue was the Emperor's sending
+for a deputation of the students to wait on him, his kind reception of
+and conversation with them, and their elation at the honor,
+notwithstanding their mortification at the contrast of the smoke-soiled
+hands and faces of the torch-bearers with the brilliance of the
+Imperial chamber and the full dress of distinguished visitors. Leaving
+the Emperor's palace, the procession passed through Unter den Linden
+and the Brandenburg Gate to the Thiergarten, where amid a dense and
+surging throng the students threw their burning torches in a heap and
+sang over the expiring flames, "Gaudeamus igitur juvenes dum sumus."
+Deputies from all the Universities, dressed in black velvet coats, high
+boots, and plumed hats, and bearing fine swords, brought up the rear of
+the procession in thirty carriages, with the flags of the old German
+towns and Universities floating above them. I watched this torchlight
+procession from a second-story window-seat on Unter den Linden, and was
+much impressed with the general view, extending from the equestrian
+statue of Frederick the Great before the Emperor's palace, where the
+entire area was filled with reflected light, for nearly a mile to the
+Brandenburg Gate, the various forms of the waving torches on the long
+line seeming the very apotheosis of flame. Many of the young men were
+dressed in the picturesque taste peculiar to German students. Gay
+feathers and unique caps set off to advantage the fine features and
+fair complexions which render some of the students remarkable, though
+the faces are too often disfigured by tell-tale sabre-cuts. After the
+passing of the procession, we drove through a portion of the Potsdamer
+Strasse where the lamps were rather infrequent and the overarching
+branches of the trees shut out the starlight from the handsome street.
+Crowds were hurrying to and fro,--but to this we had become
+accustomed,--when suddenly we met a company of mounted students
+returning from the park. In white wigs and high-peaked caps,
+close-fitting white suits embroidered with gold, brilliant sashes, and
+top-boots, they looked, in the dim light, like knights of the Middle
+Ages returning from some quest or tournament; and as they slowly filed
+by, bowing to the greetings of the passers, it was hard to believe for
+the moment that they were other than they seemed.
+
+The morning of the birthday dawned bright and beautiful. "Emperor's
+weather this," the Germans fondly said. Before we left our
+breakfast-room the sound of chimes was calling all the children of the
+city to the churches for their share of the celebration. From my
+window I saw at one time three large processions of children passing
+in different directions through diverging streets. All were marshalled
+by teachers from the public schools in strictest order, and with fine
+brass bands playing choral music as they entered the church. Here the
+pastor, after prayer, addressed the children on the blessings of peace
+and the life of the good Emperor, and the children sang, as only
+German children can, the patriotic songs of their country. No more
+touching sight was seen that day than these thousands of boys and
+girls passing into the churches, with the sound of solemn music, to
+thank God for the blessings of Fatherland and Emperor,--a scene which
+caused tears to roll down the cheeks of many a spectator. It will be
+hard to uproot German patriotism while its future fathers and mothers
+are thus trained.
+
+While the children were marching, another procession was also passing,
+composed of the magistrates and city officials, going to the Nicolai
+Kirche (the oldest church in Berlin) for a similar service. Every one
+was astir early, and before ten o'clock a dense crowd filled the
+streets. Horses, omnibuses, and tram-cars were garlanded and decorated
+with flags, and the house fronts were bewildering in color and
+decorations. The double-headed eagle, signifying in the heraldry of
+Germany the Empire of Charlemagne and that of the Caesars, was
+everywhere intermingled with the German tri-color of red, white, and
+black, with the black and white of Prussia, the green of Saxony, the
+blue of Bavaria, and the orange, purple, and other colors of the
+various principalities and powers of the German Empire; hardly a house
+lacking some brilliant flutter of symbolic colors. Only an American in
+a foreign land can know how welcome was the sight of "the stars and
+stripes" floating majestically from two or three points on the route;
+though in one case it was flanked by the crescent and star of the
+Turkish Empire, and in another contrasted with the blue dragon on a
+yellow ground which formed the triangular flag of China. Miles of
+business thoroughfares showed glittering and artistic arrangements in
+the shop windows; nearly every one having its picture, bust, or statue
+of the Emperor,--some with most elaborate and expensive designs.
+Between ten and eleven A.M. the deputations from the Universities
+passed through Unter den Linden, making a daylight parade but little
+inferior to that of the evening before. The dense throng immediately
+closed in after the procession, but by great efforts the mounted
+police cleared a passage for the State carriages to the palace of the
+Emperor. At eleven o'clock a magnificent royal carriage drew up at the
+palace of the Crown Prince, who entered it, accompanied by the Crown
+Princess and two daughters. They proceeded to the presence of the
+Emperor, to offer the first congratulations. Next came a carriage
+whose splendid accompaniments eclipsed all others. Preceded by a
+mounted herald in scarlet and silver, on a mettled and caparisoned
+steed, and by other outriders in the same glittering fashion, came the
+carriage, surmounted by silver crowns, drawn by six horses; carriage,
+steeds, coachman, and footmen in shining livery and flowing plumes. At
+the door of the Crown Prince's palace the stout figure of the Prince
+of Wales, in comparatively plain attire, stepped into this coach; a
+lady was handed in after him, and the splendid equipage rolled toward
+the Emperor's palace, amid the cheers of the multitude. From the Old
+Schloss, a succession of royal carriages passed in the same direction,
+all glittering in silver and gold and flowing with plumes, many with
+four or six horses; until fully fifty State carriages had deposited
+their occupants at the palace of the Kaiser, and awaited, in the fine
+open spaces around the famous equestrian statue of Frederick the
+Great, the return of royalty from its congratulations to the venerable
+object of all this attention. Many of the royal visitors were known by
+sight to the crowd, as Berlin sees much of royalty; but many were not.
+The cheering was not enthusiastic, except in special cases. "Who is
+that?" said one near me, as a splendid carriage passed. "I do not
+know," replied another man; "it is only one of those kings." But when
+the Crown Prince Frederick returned from his call, "This is something
+else," said the proud German heart; and the cheers were deafening. The
+greatest enthusiasm of the day was shown when Prince William and his
+family passed, in the most striking equipage of all, except that of
+the Prince of Wales. It was a State carriage of the time of Frederick
+the Great, its decorations of gold on a dark body; a large, low
+vehicle whose glass windows revealed the occupants on every side. Six
+Pomeranian brown steeds of high mettle were guided by the skilful
+driver, horses and outriders being splendidly caparisoned in light
+blue and silver. Rudolph, Crown Prince of Austria, solitary in his
+carriage, received his share of attention, as did the Russian Grand
+Dukes and Grand Duchess, the fine-looking King and Queen of Saxony,
+the Prince-Regent of Bavaria with his two sons of ten and twelve, and
+the Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, venerable sister of the Emperor.
+The Queen of Roumania bowed to the throng with utmost grace, smiling
+and showing her brilliant teeth; but whether the special huzzas were a
+tribute to the beauty of the Queen, or to the poetry of Carmen Sylva,
+we could not determine. All things have an end; and so did this
+dazzling State pageant, at which all Europe assisted and where all
+Europe was looking on; but not until Bismarck's carriage had conveyed
+the Chancellor to his chief, followed by General Von Moltke, who had
+the good taste to drive up simply, with two horses and an open
+carriage that interposed not even plate-glass between the great
+soldier and the loyal multitude. A few moments after their entrance,
+the Emperor appeared at the palace window, Bismarck on his right and
+Von Moltke on his left, and the hurrahs of the crowd burst forth anew.
+
+Later in the day the Crown Prince and Crown Princess entertained the
+royal guests at dinner; and Prince Bismarck, as usual on the Emperor's
+birthday, gave a dinner to the Diplomatic Corps. A drizzling rain set
+in suddenly in the afternoon, sending dismay to the hearts of all; for
+the most brilliant part of the celebration was still in reserve for
+the evening. The rain fell in occasional light showers up to a late
+hour, but it dampened only the outer garb, not the hearts, of the
+undiminished multitude, which at night-fall, on foot or in carriages,
+thronged the streets of the brilliant capital, whose myriad lights
+showed to better advantage under the reflecting clouds than they would
+have done under starlight. The carriages numbered scores of thousands,
+and the people on foot hundreds of thousands; but so complete were the
+arrangements of the police and so obedient the concourse, that all
+proceeded in nearly perfect order. Our coachman fortunately drove
+through Old Berlin and Koeln, as a preliminary to the evening's
+sight-seeing. Long arcades filled with Jews' shops were worthy the pen
+of Dickens. This festal day made this most ancient portion of the city
+also one of the most picturesque. Houses with quaint dormer windows
+roofed by "eyelids," of an architecture dating back two or three
+hundred years, gleamed with candles in every window. Almost no house
+or shop was so poor as to dispense with its share of the universal
+illumination. At least three horizontal lines of lighted candles
+threaded both sides of every street of this city of a million and a
+half inhabitants. Many private as well as public buildings in the old
+part showed by colored lights the picturesque, quaint streets and
+nooks, as no light of day can ever do. We were passing the Rath-haus,
+or City Hall,--a modern and imposing edifice,--at the time when its
+great tower was being lighted up. Three hundred feet above the
+pavement floated the flags grouped in the centre and at the corners of
+the square tower. Invisible red fires illuminated them, the shafts of
+crimson light rising to the clouds above, the outlines of the
+remainder of the building dimly reposing in darkness. An immense
+electric light, guided by a reflector in another tower, shot a bridge
+of white light high in air across the river, and fell, like a
+circumscribed space of noonday amid black darkness, on the fine
+equestrian statue of the Great Elector by the bridge behind the Old
+Castle, with an effect almost indescribable. As we entered Unter den
+Linden by the Lustgarten, the beautiful square and its historic
+edifices, which form an ideal sight even by daylight, glowed and
+gleamed with jets of light from every point. The Old Schloss showed
+continuous lines of illumination in the windows of its four stories,
+along its front of six hundred and fifty feet, while the majestic dome
+caught and reflected rays of light from every point of the horizon. On
+the opposite side of the Lustgarten, the Doric portico of the National
+Gallery glowed with rose-colored light from massive Grecian lamps,
+while the arched entrance beneath its superb staircase gleamed with a
+pale sea-green radiance like the entrance to some ocean cave. The
+incomparable architecture of the Old Museum was set in strong relief
+by white light, which flooded its immense Ionic colonnade and brought
+out the high colors of the colossal frescos along the three hundred
+feet of its magnificent portico. The front of the palace of the Crown
+Prince was thrown, by innumerable jets, into a blaze of crimson. The
+Roman Catholic Church of St. Hedwig, with its dome in imitation of the
+Pantheon, its Latin cross and window arches beaming in pale yellow,
+made a fine background for the only unilluminated building, the palace
+of the Emperor. From the Opera House, the Arsenal, and the University,
+crowns and elaborate designs were burning, yet unconsumed. Most
+elaborately decorated of all Berlin buildings was the Academy of Arts
+and Sciences, opposite the Imperial Palace, with colossal warriors in
+bronze keeping guard at its portals, and the Angel of Peace laying a
+laurel wreath on the altar of Fatherland as its decorative
+centre-piece. No high meaning of all its symbols was more touching
+and significant than the appropriate texts of Scripture written for
+the Kaiser's eye, underneath its elaborate frescos. But of what avail
+would be an attempt to describe two miles of most beautiful
+decorations along Unter den Linden, each one a study in itself, and
+having nothing in common with the others, except the eagles and the
+Emperor's monogram; and the innumerable points of light, massed in a
+world of various forms, and in all the colors of the rainbow! This
+glow of splendor surrounded by the dense darkness covered the city,
+and the dazzling coronals of its lofty towers and domes and spires
+must have been visible to a great distance across the plains of
+Brandenburg.
+
+Slowly the triple line of carriages and the surging throng pressed
+onward, past the palaces and diplomatic residences of the Pariser
+Platz; some diverging down the Wilhelm Strasse, where streaming flags
+and blazing illuminations made noonday brightness and gayety about the
+palace of the Chancellor, but most passing through the Brandenburg
+Gate. The massive Doric columns of this impressive structure were in
+darkness, but the Chariot of Victory with its fine bronze horses,
+surmounting the gate, was weird with the scarlet light of Bengal
+fires burning on the entablature.
+
+As the artist rests his eyes by the spot of neutral gray which he
+keeps for the purpose on wall or palette, so brain and eye were
+prepared for sleep at the close of this long day, by sitting in our
+carriages, safe sheltered from the soft-falling rain, outside the
+great gate which divided the splendor from the darkness, for three
+quarters of an hour, in an inextricable tangle of carriages, until the
+perturbed coachmen and the sorely vexed police could evolve order from
+the temporary confusion, and set the hindered procession again on its
+homeward way.
+
+Meantime the day was not over for the much-enduring Emperor and his
+royal guests. In the famous White Saloon of the Old Schloss an
+entertainment was going forward. Blinding coronets and necklaces on
+royal ladies made the interior of this ancient palace more brilliant
+than its shining exterior on this birth-night. The Empress Augusta,
+leaning on the arm of her grandson, Prince William, was attired in a
+lace-trimmed robe of pale green, her diamonds a mass of sparkling
+light; the Crown Princess was in silver-gray, the wife of the English
+Ambassador in pale mauve, the Princess Christian in turquoise blue;
+and the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia wore a magnificent robe of
+pink satin trimmed with sable, with a tiara of diamonds and a
+stomacher of diamonds and emeralds. From the neck and forehead of the
+Queen of Roumania flashed a thousand prismatic hues; and the Green
+Vault of Dresden sent some of its most precious treasures to keep
+company with the fair Queen of Saxony in adding brilliance to the
+scene.
+
+Our reverie led from this starry point in history back to the time
+when, as on this memorable day, the royal salute of Berlin artillery
+shook the city, to announce the birth of a prince ninety years ago. A
+rapid, almost a chance recall of the years shows us Washington then
+living on his estate at Mount Vernon, Lafayette a young man of forty,
+Clay a stripling of twenty, Webster a boy of fifteen. The Directory in
+France had not yet made way for the First Republic; the younger Pitt
+and Canning held England; Metternich and O'Connell were in their
+youth, and Robert Peel was a child of nine. Napoleon Bonaparte was in
+the flush of youthful success, soon to become the idol of France and
+the terror of Europe, before whom the boy, now Kaiser Wilhelm, and
+his royal family fled to Koenigsberg by the Baltic, while the conqueror
+held Berlin and reduced Prussia to a second-rate province. To this boy
+the flames of burning Moscow were a transient aurora-borealis under
+the pole-star; and Nelson and Wellington were unknown to the stories
+of his childhood, for as yet their fame was not. Goethe and Schiller
+were in the prime of early manhood; Kant and Klopstock elderly, but
+with years yet to live; Scott was just laying down his poet's pen and
+preparing to take up the immortal quill with which he wrote his first
+"Waverley;" Moore was singing his sweet melodies; Wordsworth had yet
+to lay the foundations of the "Lake Poetry;" and the fair boy, Byron,
+was chanting his early songs, not yet for many a year to die at
+Missolonghi.
+
+This wonderful old man of ninety, gayly stooping to kiss the hand of a
+lady to-night in his hospitable palace, like the young man that he is,
+has a memory stretching from the battle of Austerlitz across the
+gigantic struggles of the century to the battle of Sedan,--all of
+which he has seen, and a part of which he has been!
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+STREETS, PARKS, CEMETERIES, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+
+For a hundred years the picturesque Brandenburg Gate has guarded the
+entrance to Unter den Linden from the Thiergarten. It is a monument of
+the reversion of royal taste from the devotion to French style, which
+characterized Frederick the Great, to the purely classical. It is
+nearly two hundred feet in width, its five openings being guarded by
+six massive Doric columns about forty-five feet in height. To
+foot-passengers, riders, and ordinary vehicles the two outer spaces on
+each side are devoted respectively, while the wide central passage is
+traversed only by the royal carriages. The celebrated quadriga with
+the figure of Victory, on the entablature, was first placed with the
+face toward the Park. When the First Napoleon robbed Berlin, along
+with other cities, for the adornment of Paris, he carried off this
+masterpiece in bronze and set it up in the Place du Carrousel under
+the shadow of the Tuileries. Upon Napoleon's downfall in 1814, this
+group was restored to its original place, but was set facing the Unter
+den Linden, making of the Brandenburger Thor a triumphal arch marking
+the victory of Prussia in the long contest.
+
+The famous Unter den Linden, nearly two hundred feet wide and three
+fourths of a mile in length, with a double line of lime-trees
+enclosing an area of greensward along the centre, would be accounted
+anywhere a handsome street, with the palaces of the Pariser Platz at
+one end, the Imperial palaces, the Arsenal, the Academy, and the
+University at the other, and brilliant shop-windows lining both sides
+of the whole length, while the Brandenburg Gate and the great
+equestrian statue of Frederick the Great at either extremity close the
+fine vista. Leaving out of view, however, these two noble features
+which mark its termini, the street seemed not handsome enough to
+justify its fame. Perhaps this was because we found the famous
+lime-trees, for which the street is named, quite ordinary young trees,
+not to be compared with the magnificent elms which line the streets of
+New Haven and the Mall of Boston Common.
+
+The characteristic part of Berlin is, to our view, the great space
+east of Unter den Linden, surrounded by the palaces, the royal Guard
+House, the Arsenal, the University, and the Academy of Arts and
+Sciences. These fine buildings and the ornamented open spaces around
+and between them, on a sunny afternoon in midwinter, show a brilliant
+and unique scene which has hardly its parallel in Europe. The Champs
+Elysees is finer at night; Hyde Park, St. James, the Parliament
+buildings, and Westminster Abbey far finer on a sunny morning; but the
+third city in Europe has no need to be ashamed of its royal buildings
+and the scene before them, in the season when the Court is in Berlin,
+and the slant rays of an early afternoon sun light up the gay throng
+of soldiers in uniform, State carriages, pedestrians, and vehicles
+which surge to and fro without crowding the vast spaces.
+
+The Lustgarten is fine; but of the buildings around it, the Old Museum
+alone meets the eye with architectural satisfaction. In all lights
+that building is beautiful in design and proportions. The Old Schloss
+is impressive mainly by its massiveness and its august dome. A most
+picturesque view by moonlight is to be had from the east end of the
+Lange or Kuerfuersten Bruecke, southeast of the old palace. Here the
+water-front of the old castle is in full view, with the fortified part
+unaltered since the early occupation by the Hohenzollerns. This
+mediaeval building, shaded by a few ancient trees, with here and there
+a light reflected from the upper windows at evening, and with tower
+and turret duplicated on the surface of the darkly flowing river at
+its foot, shares with one the feeling of ancient times, as no other
+place in Berlin can do. In the centre of this bridge is the equestrian
+statue of the Great Elector, superior as a work of art to any other of
+its date. This grand figure is fabled to descend from his horse and
+stalk through the streets on New Year's eve, for the chastisement of
+evil-doers.
+
+The Wilhelm Strasse, running from a point near the Pariser Platz south
+from Unter den Linden, has many palaces and public buildings; but its
+chief interest centres about No. 77, the palace of Prince Bismarck.
+The front looks eastward, and is built around three sides of a garden
+filled with shrubbery and threaded by walks, and shut off from the
+street by great iron gates and a high open iron fence. The study,
+where the Chancellor spends much time when in Berlin, looks upon a
+garden, and is furnished with the same simplicity which characterizes
+the private apartments of General Von Moltke. Among the few pictures
+which adorn the study of Bismarck is one of General Grant. Here it was
+that the famous Berlin Congress met in 1878 for the settlement of the
+Eastern Question.
+
+The palace of Prince Albert of Prussia, now Military Governor of
+Brunswick, is situated in a magnificent private park, acres in extent,
+in the heart of the city. It opens from the Wilhelm Strasse at the
+head of Koch. This palace was built in the early part of the
+eighteenth century by a French nobleman, with wealth gained in the
+great speculations of the Mississippi Scheme, upon which all France
+entered in hope of retrieving the bankruptcy entailed by Louis XIV.
+Its fine colonnade, its great park, and its position, adjoining the
+park of the War Department, between two great railroad stations and
+surrounded by tramways, render it one of the most prominent features
+of Central Berlin.
+
+The small and elaborately laid-out square of the Wilhelm Strasse,
+known as the Wilhelms Platz, with its pretty fountains, shrubs, and
+flowers, has bronze statues of six generals of Frederick the
+Great,--heroes of the Seven Years' War. Here it is easy to sit and
+dream of the olden time, in reverie which not even the Kaiserhof
+diplomats nor the Wilhelm-Street autocrats, within a stone's-throw on
+either side, nor the throng and glitter of the Berlin of to-day, can
+disturb. Here, surrounded by the figures and the faces of the men with
+whom Carlyle has made us acquainted, we recall the wonderful story
+which he, as none other, has written. How masterly is the way in which
+he has portrayed for us this Prussian history whose memorials stand
+around us! With feeling how deep and true for the real and the eternal
+as against the false, the seeming, and the transient! What a picture
+is the history! What a poem is the picture!
+
+At the northeast corner of the Wilhelms Platz is the palace of Prince
+Friedrich Karl, one of the leaders of the Franco-Prussian War. It was
+once the temple of the Order of the Knights of Malta, but its
+sumptuous interior has now for many years been devoted to residence on
+the upper floor, and to the famous art and _bric-a-brac_ collections
+of the late prince, on the ground floor. It is not difficult to gain,
+from the steward, the requisite permission to visit this interesting
+palace.
+
+Many private houses, interesting for their associations, might be
+found by the sojourner in Berlin who cares to search them out; but
+intelligent residents only, and not the guide-books, can facilitate
+this search. In the Margrafen Strasse, near the Royal Library, is the
+house where Neander lived and studied and wrote. Near the
+Dreifaltische Kirche, behind the Kaiserhof, is the old-fashioned
+parsonage which was the home of Schleiermacher, and in the
+Oranienburger Strasse is the house in which lived Alexander von
+Humboldt.
+
+Of the many beautiful parks, the Thiergarten overshadows all the rest,
+both because of its commanding location, close to Unter den Linden and
+other busy streets, and its great extent. A combination of park and
+wild forest, with streams, ponds, bridges, and miles of shaded avenues
+and riding-paths in perfect condition, its six hundred acres form one
+of the largest, most beautiful and useful parks in Europe. The
+elaborate and towering monument to commemorate the victories of recent
+Prussian and German wars is the centre of a system of grand avenues in
+the northeastern part. This monument was originally intended to
+commemorate the Schleswig-Holstein conquest; later, the victories over
+Austria in 1866 were to be included; and when the Franco-Prussian War
+was happily ended, it was decided to make of it also a fitting
+memorial of united Germany. On the third anniversary of the
+Capitulation of Sedan, Emperor William I. unveiled the colossal statue
+of Victory on the summit of the monument, which commemorates the chief
+events of his august reign.
+
+Immense bas-reliefs on the pedestal represent, on one side, events in
+the Danish campaign; on another is shown the Decoration of the Crown
+Prince by the Emperor on the field of Sadowa, with Prince Friedrich
+Karl, Von Moltke, and Bismarck standing by; the third side shows the
+French General Reille, handing Louis Napoleon's letter of capitulation
+at Sedan; and the fourth, the triumphal entry of German soldiers into
+Paris through the Arc de Triomphe. There is also a representation of
+the scene, on that day when all Berlin went wild with joy and
+exultation over the return of the Kaiser and his troops from Paris, of
+their reception at the Brandenburg Gate.
+
+Within the open colonnade of the substructure, a vast mosaic shows, in
+symbols, the history of the Franco-Prussian War, closing with a
+representation of Bavaria offering the German Crown to Prussia, and
+the proclamation of the Kaiser at Versailles. It was King William
+himself who refused to have his own image placed here as the Victor,
+and who substituted in the design of the artist the female figure of
+Borussia with the features of his mother, Queen Louise. The shaft,
+rising eighty-five feet above the substructure, has three divisions,
+with twenty perpendicular grooves in each. These grooves are filled
+with thrice twenty upright cannon, captured from the Danes, the
+Austrians, and the French, bound to the shaft by gilded wreaths of
+laurel. The Prussian Eagles surmount the column, forming a capital
+upwards of one hundred and fifty feet above the pavement; and the
+great statue soars nearly fifty feet still higher.
+
+In the southeastern portion of the Thiergarten is a colossal statue
+of Goethe, which shows at its best in the twilight of an early summer
+evening, framed in the tender greens and browns of the bursting
+foliage behind it. Not far away are the statues of Queen Louise and
+King Frederick William III., parents of Emperor William I., surrounded
+by beautiful flowers, pools, and fountains; and the famous "Lion
+Group" marks the intersection of much-frequented avenues in the same
+neighborhood. A wide central avenue traversing the whole length of the
+Thiergarten from east to west allows space for the tramway to the
+imposing edifice of the Institute of Technology and to the Zooelogical
+Gardens, where is one of the largest and best collections of birds and
+animals in the world, each species with habitations suited to it,
+several built in showy Oriental style, amid concert-gardens where
+beautiful music may be heard every day.
+
+A favorite walk of ours on sunny winter mornings was in the West End
+of Berlin, where are many of the finer aristocratic residences. No
+city can show, so far as we know, a handsomer residence quarter than
+portions of that which stretches between the Thiergarten on the north,
+the Zooelogical Gardens on the west, and the Botanical Garden on the
+south. The collections of the latter, like those of the Zooelogical
+Gardens, rank among the first of their kind. The great glass house
+which shelters the _Victoria Regia_ is attractive chiefly in the
+summer, when the plants are in blossom, but the cacti and the palm
+houses are interesting the year round. The palm-house is a Crystal
+Palace on a small scale. Entering, one finds a tropical atmosphere,
+hot and moist. All the larger palms and some of the smaller have each
+a furnace to themselves, from four to six feet in diameter and the
+same in height. Over this furnace the great tub is set which contains
+the roots of the tree, over which water is frequently sprinkled. The
+arrangement of the trees is graceful and beautiful. There are
+galleries and seats everywhere; and little imagination is required to
+transport one's self to Oriental and Biblical scenes, with these
+palm-trees towering overhead. A short walk east of these gardens is
+the Matthai Cemetery, where repose the brothers Grimm.
+
+The Schiller Platz, so named from the statue before the
+Schauspielhaus, is fortunate--if not in the life-size statue of the
+poet--in the fine pedestal, with its allegorical figures of Poetry,
+History, and Philosophy, which were originally designed to adorn a
+fountain. In a still more crowded part of Berlin the Donhof Platz has
+recently been transformed, from a barren square surrounding the statue
+of that great Prussian, Baron von Stein, into a lovely garden-spot,
+with flowers and trees and birds for the cheer of the hurrying
+multitudes.
+
+The old Halle Gate, where several streets converge to the southern
+extremity of the Friedrich Strasse, is reached through ornamental
+grounds known as the Belle-Alliance Platz, in the centre of which is a
+column erected to commemorate the peace which followed the wars of the
+First Napoleon. Not far to the southwest is the Kreuzberg, the only
+mountain in this part of Brandenburg,--a modest eminence about two
+hundred feet above the sea-level. It is crowned by an iron obelisk
+which affords a good view of the city.
+
+Berlin has no cemetery comparable in extent or beauty to many in the
+environs of American cities. Three small burial-grounds, separate but
+adjoining, at the southern edge of the city contain the graves of
+Neander, with the memorable inscription,--his favorite motto,--"Pectus
+est quod theologum facit;" of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, his
+parents and his sister Fanny; of Schleiermacher, and of our
+countryman, the Rev. Dr. J.P. Thompson, long-beloved pastor of the
+Broadway Tabernacle Church, New York. Here, also, Bayard Taylor was
+for a time laid to rest, before being finally removed to his native
+land. Decorations are not so ostentatious as in Catholic countries;
+and quiet ivy, simple greensward, and the shadow of trees in which
+birds may sing, make the quaint Berlin cemeteries attractive places.
+This was to us especially true of the ancient cemetery connected with
+the Sophien Kirche and the old Dorotheen-Stadt cemetery, in the
+northern part of the city, where we went to look upon the graves of
+Fichte and Hegel, and of several artists famous in Berlin annals. In
+the Sophien Kirchof lies the philosopher, Moses Mendelssohn; and in
+that of the Garrison Church, De la Motte Fouque, the author of
+"Undine."
+
+One of the most conspicuous public buildings is the Rath-haus, or Town
+Hall, erected at a cost of nearly two million dollars. Its lofty
+clock-tower with illuminated dial tells the time to all Berlin by
+night, and adds a charm to the group of royal palaces and museums on
+which it looks down. The ancient town-houses of North Germany most
+truly express the spirit of the old Hanse League; and the Rath-haus of
+Berlin, while keeping the spirit, adds the grand proportions and
+embellishments characteristic of the modern city. The interior
+apartments, including the Festival Hall, the Town Council-Room, and
+the Magistrates' Chamber, are elaborately adorned with historical
+frescos and statues, and the grand staircase has a finely vaulted
+ceiling and windows of stained glass filled with Prussian heraldry. A
+visit to this edifice by daylight gives one the fine view from the
+clock-tower; but to see the famous Raths-Keller underneath, with
+characteristic accompaniments, one must go after dark. One evening,
+after the adjournment, in an upper hall, of that rare thing in Berlin,
+a temperance meeting, a friend led our party through the elegant
+apartments of this place of popular refreshment. In the basement of
+this costly municipal building is a gilded saloon, upwards of three
+hundred feet long, divided into apartments. In some of these whole
+families were partaking of their evening "refreshments;" others were
+manifestly the appointed trysting-places of friends, while here and
+there, in sheltered nooks, the solitary ones sipped their wine or
+beer. Everything, so far as we could see, was orderly and quiet, and
+we were told that the place was one of eminent respectability. It is
+only after witnessing the habits of the people, in their homes and
+places of popular resort, that one is prepared to appreciate the
+enormous consumption of beer, averaging four glasses per day to every
+man, woman, and child in the kingdom, at an average annual cost to
+families greater than their house-rent.
+
+The Exchange, or Boerse, on the east bank of the river, is a most
+imposing building. The excitements of this money-centre may be seen in
+a visit here any week-day at noon. There are galleries for visitors,
+over the Great Hall, which accommodates five thousand persons.
+
+The Imperial Bank, like the Imperial Mint, is under State control; and
+both occupy buildings themselves worthy to be called Imperial.
+
+The great City Prison, on a modern plan, is in Moabit, a northwestern
+suburb. This region received its name, "Pays de Moab," from French
+immigrants on account of its sterile soil; but a part of it is
+becoming an attractive and beautiful residence quarter. To the north
+of this is a model state-prison, accommodating twelve hundred
+prisoners.
+
+The Insane Asylum is said also to be a model institution. It has
+accommodations for fifteen hundred patients; and its buildings are
+near Dalldorf, a short distance east of the route to the northwestern
+suburb of Tegel. The Medical Department of the University has large
+buildings in different parts of the city. Connected with these is the
+great Carite Hospital, founded a hundred years ago, and richly endowed
+by public and private funds. In its many wards more than fifteen
+hundred patients are constantly under treatment. Another interesting
+hospital is the Staedtische Krankenhaus, completed about fifteen years
+ago, on the "pavilion" plan, with the best modern appliances. This is
+situated in the beautiful park known as the Friedrichshain, in the
+northeastern part of the city. The Bethanien, in the southeastern
+quarter, is a large institution for the training of nurses, admirably
+managed, under the care of the deaconesses, or Protestant Sisters.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+PALACES.
+
+
+The palaces lately occupied by Emperor William I. and Crown Prince
+Frederick were formerly shown to the public during the absence of the
+occupants at their country residences; but as this was usually in the
+summer, when comparatively few strangers are in Berlin, they were not
+commonly included in a sight-seeing programme. They are pleasant
+homes, without great magnificence, but containing many interesting
+memorials of the lives of their Imperial masters. The palace of the
+Crown Prince was not used by him after he became Emperor Frederick
+III. The hundred days of pain which remained to him of life were spent
+at Charlottenburg and in the Castle of Friedrichskron at Potsdam.
+
+The Old Schloss of Berlin, dating back in its foundation to the castle
+fortified on the river-side more than four hundred years ago by one of
+the early Electors of Brandenburg to maintain his rights of conquest,
+has received many later additions. It now has seven hundred
+apartments, and reached perhaps its greatest glory in the time of
+Frederick the Great, who was born here. It was then the central seat
+of the royal family; and here were deposited the records and treasures
+of the Government. It is now used only as the permanent residence of a
+few officials, but is the place of entertainment for many royal guests
+and their retinues when the great State pageants occur, of which
+Berlin has seen so many. It is popularly said to be haunted. There is
+a story that the Countess Agnes of Orlamuende, many, many years ago,
+murdered her two children in order that she might marry the man of her
+choice, and that in penance her ghost is condemned to haunt the Old
+Palace of Berlin and that of Bayreuth. It is believed by some that
+this apparition of "the White Lady" appears to a member of the
+Hohenzollern family as a sure forerunner of death; and Carlyle's
+picture of the causeless fright of one of the royal rulers when he
+thought he had seen this ghost, will recur to all who have read
+"Frederick the Great." We have heard of no visitor so fortunate as to
+get a sight of the apparition. One enters through an inner court; and
+parties who wish to see the interior are taken every half-hour, by an
+official in charge, for a tour of the palace. The waxed floors of
+inlaid wood are very handsome; and, as in other parts of Central
+Europe, they are protected from the tramp of visitors by immense felt
+slippers, into which all are required to thrust their shoes, and in
+which one goes gliding noiselessly over the polished surfaces in a way
+to save the floors, but not always to conserve the dignity or gravity
+of those unaccustomed to the process. Many of the rooms are highly
+decorated, and memorials of the history of Prussia abound. There are
+many paintings, of which most are portraits or battle scenes, the
+picture gallery proper containing the pictures connected with Prussian
+history, and the Kings' and Queens' chambers the portraits of all the
+sovereigns. The Chamber of the Cloth of Gold and the Old Throne Room
+are highly ornamented, and contain massive gold and silver mementos of
+former kings and of Emperor William's long career. Here also is the
+great crystal chandelier which once hung in the Hall of the Conclave
+at Worms, and under which Luther stood when he made the immortal
+declaration, "Hier stehe ich; ich kann nicht andere; helfe mir Gott.
+Amen." In the White Hall court balls are held, and here sometimes has
+gathered the Parliament to be opened by the Emperor. It is said that
+when lighted up by its nearly three thousand wax candles for a court
+festival, the scene in this hall is extremely brilliant.
+
+Charlottenburg has been anew endeared to the public by the pathos of
+the home-coming of Emperor Frederick III., who took up his first
+Imperial residence in this suburban palace, and from an upper window
+of which he watched the funeral procession of his venerable sire as it
+passed to the mausoleum. This only son and heir to a great throne
+might not follow the bier of the father to its resting-place, but
+gazed alone from the palace at the mournful pageant, knowing that the
+time could not be far distant when the same sad ceremonials would be
+repeated for himself. Who shall say what were the thoughts of the
+manly Frederick III., as, when wife and children had joined the sad
+procession which wound its way northward through that grand but sombre
+avenue of stately pines which leads from the palace of Charlottenburg
+to the beautiful marble mausoleum where Kaiser Wilhelm was laid to
+rest beside his mother and his father, the sick man stood immovably at
+that upper window, following only with his eyes, and with no spoken
+word, the drama in which himself was the central and most pathetic
+figure!
+
+Charlottenburg is a suburb some two or three miles southwest of
+Berlin, practically now a part of the capital, but with a corporation
+and a quiet life of its own. Sophia Charlotte, Queen of the first King
+of Prussia, founded for herself a country residence here at the
+village of Lietzow, nearly two hundred years ago; and this has given
+the palace and the present suburb its name. Here the idolized Queen
+Louise in the early part of this century lived much, and here are many
+portraits and marbles bearing her likeness. The palace and front
+garden are in unattractive "rococo" style, especially the rooms
+occupied by Frederick the Great; but the gardens in the rear of the
+palace are large and most attractive. The fame of the place arises
+chiefly from the beautiful Doric mausoleum to Frederick William III.
+and Queen Louise, created by the taste of their son, King Frederick
+William IV., brother and predecessor of the late Emperor William. The
+exquisite reposing figure of Queen Louise in Carrara marble lies under
+light falling through stained glass in the dome; and the tomb of the
+King (her husband) lying beside her is hardly less attractive. Both
+are surrounded by excellent accessories in marble and fresco, and it
+is a place where one gladly lingers long. The great avenue leading
+from the palace to the mausoleum has ivy-mantled trunks of giant trees
+for sentinels, and greensward and forest on either hand make a quiet
+which beseems one of the loveliest of resting-places for the dead. It
+was here that King William came to pray, beside the tomb of the mother
+who had suffered so much at the hands of the First Napoleon, on the
+eve of going out to the war with Napoleon III.; and here, when
+returning in the flush of victory as Emperor of United Germany, with
+Louis Napoleon a prisoner in the German castle of Wilhelmshoehe, the
+old man came again to kneel in silent prayer beside the form of that
+mother whom the fortunes of war had so signally avenged more than
+sixty years after her death. What wonder that in this sacred spot only
+did William I. wish to be laid, when death should gather him to his
+fathers!
+
+Sixteen miles southwest of Berlin, "that amphibious Potsdam" of
+Carlyle holds out manifold attractions by land and water ways. It is a
+city of fifty thousand inhabitants, besides a garrison of soldiers
+which guard its royal palaces and their lovely grounds. There are many
+interesting public buildings and historical monuments. It was early in
+our Berlin residence that, taking advantage of a bright morning when
+bright mornings were not too frequent, two Americans were set down at
+the station in Potsdam, armed only with a well-studied guide-book and
+a few words of conversational German. We did not wish to be shown
+everything, and so, declining the offered services of guides, engaged
+a drosky by the hour, with a kindly-faced young man for driver. He
+took the greatest interest in us, and supplied us with such
+information as we wished. For the rest we were set down at Sans Souci,
+free to stroll through its rooms in charge of the palace official,
+with our freshly read Macaulay and Carlyle in mind, striking the
+balance for ourselves between these two differing estimates of
+Frederick the Great, with every particular standing out vividly in the
+light of the object-lessons from that monarch's life which crowded on
+every hand. It was fortunate for us that we were the only visitors
+that morning, for this was the first palace we had entered, and the
+dreams of childhood were realizing themselves like the lines of a
+remembered fairy poem. The sympathy which spoke or was silent at will,
+sure of being always understood, gave the final touch of perfection to
+a memorable day. Beautiful for situation, the long, domed, one-storied
+building, the favorite residence of Frederick the Great, is impressive
+because of its history. As we wandered through the suites of elegant
+rooms and heard the stories connected with Frederick and Voltaire,
+their shades seemed everywhere to flit before us. The first terrace
+leads to the spot where the King buried his favorite horses and dogs,
+and where, before the palace was built, he once expressed a wish to
+lie at the last. "When I am there I shall be without care," he said in
+French; and so the palace afterwards built for him here took the name
+"Sans Souci." The great iron gates at the north of the palace had
+been but twice opened, we were told,--once by the force of the First
+Napoleon, and once when the greater monarch, Death, had laid his hand
+on King Frederick William IV., who was carried hence to his last home.
+The great fountain was not playing that day; but the drive through the
+vast and famous park, with its enticing views and bewitching beauty,
+left nothing to be desired except a convenient place for physical
+refreshments. Past the orangery, with its wide views over land and
+lake, and Bornstedt (the favorite country home of the Crown Prince) to
+the north; past the "old windmill" known to history, to the New
+Palace, with its magnificence, its great extent, and its curious shell
+grotto,--we leave the simple charms of Charlottenhof and its
+neighborhood for another visit, and hasten to stand beside the coffin
+of Frederick the Great beneath the pulpit of the Potsdam Garrison
+Church.
+
+Nearer to the station is the Old Schloss of Potsdam. An old lime-tree
+opposite the entrance is shown as the place where the petitioners for
+the favor of Frederick the Great used to station themselves, in order
+to attract his Majesty's attention from the window of his bedroom, or
+as he went in and out of the palace. Here we were almost bewildered by
+the number and extent of the rooms, and the multitude of historical
+associations connected with them. Here lived Frederick William I.,
+father of Frederick the Great, in Carlyle's word-painting inferior to
+no other figure in that great composition. Here are the rolling chairs
+and the inclined planes along which that monarch was wheeled in the
+course of his long and painful illness; in his study are the pictures
+painted by him _in tormentis_, and looking forth from the south
+windows we see the parade-ground where he used to drill his giant
+soldiers. There stands a statue of this strange, eccentric monarch,
+who, notwithstanding all that was bad, had so much in him that was
+good and true. It was from this palace that his lifeless remains were
+carried forth to rest in the Garrison Church, not far away.
+
+As at Sans Souci, remembrance of Frederick the Great crowds upon us in
+the Old Schloss also. Here is his round-corner room, with walls of
+famous thickness, and a dumb-waiter lifting up through the floor the
+table and all its viands, that here he might dine alone with his
+intimates and no tell-tale sounds escape. Here is the heavy
+solid-silver balustrade which separates his library from his
+sleeping-room. In this place, not long before our visit, Prince and
+Princess Wilhelm, whose winter residence was on an upper floor of this
+palace, had brought their youngest son for baptism. All the later
+sovereigns have occupied, at one time or another, apartments in this
+interesting old palace, and here many souvenirs of the present as well
+as former royal families are shown.
+
+Charlottenhof, in the southern part of the grounds of Sans Souci, is
+an unpretending villa, beautiful in its simplicity, and with all its
+charms enhanced by its having been granted by the King as a summer
+residence to Alexander von Humboldt while working at his "Kosmos."
+Near this is the beautiful Roman Bath, adorned with fine works of art.
+
+The New Palace, now known as Friedrichskron, built on a vast scale by
+Frederick the Great after the Seven Years' War, to show that he was
+not impoverished, has henceforth its immortality as the birthplace of
+Frederick III.; and here he expired, on the morning of a June day,
+scarce a twelvemonth after he had ridden among the foremost of that
+dazzling throng of potentates which graced the imperial progress of
+Queen Victoria to Westminster Abbey on the celebration of her regal
+Jubilee.
+
+In the days of their happy summer life, lived in great simplicity and
+homelikeness, the Crown Princess once wrote, in a little pavilion
+here,--
+
+    "This plot of ground I call my own,
+      Sweet with the breath of flowers,
+    Of memories, of pure delights,
+      And toil of summer hours."
+
+Alas! henceforth these domestic memories have an element of
+unspeakable pathos added by the remembrance of the last fortnight of
+that devoted life which vanished in this memorable spot, whence the
+funeral procession went forth, through the park of Sans Souci, to lay
+all that was mortal of the beloved Frederick III. beside the graves of
+their young sons Waldemar and Sigismund, in the Peace Church of
+Potsdam.
+
+Babelsburg, the summer home of Emperor William I., is to many visitors
+more charming than any of the historic castles and palaces of Potsdam.
+Distant two or three miles from these, it is in striking contrast
+with them all. It is a modern villa in the Norman style, in a
+beautiful and extensive park northeast of Potsdam. One does not wonder
+that it was dearest of all his residences to the heart of the aged
+Emperor. Here, more than elsewhere, are the evidences and atmosphere
+of a simple yet courtly home life. Babelsburg should be visited in the
+early summer, when the trees of its great forest are showing their
+first leaves, clothed, and yet not obstructing the unrivalled view by
+land and water, and when the sward is embroidered by daisies and
+buttercups. Here the private rooms of Emperor William I. and Empress
+Augusta were freely shown, with scattered papers, work-basket, fires
+laid in the grates ready to light for the cool mornings and evenings,
+halls, staircases, reception-rooms, library, study, and
+sleeping-rooms, as homelike and everyday-looking as though they were
+those of any happy family in any part of the land. Of special interest
+to English travellers is the suite of rooms fitted up for the
+reception of the Princess Royal when she came to Germany as a bride in
+1858. The chambers are hung with chintz of pale pink and other
+delicate colors, such as one sees in England, and with the same
+dainty arrangements which make English bedrooms a synonym for spotless
+comfort the world around. Here were arranged the pictures of father
+and queen-mother and brothers and sisters, and the little souvenirs of
+home with which, as an English girl of seventeen, she fought the
+homesickness inevitable to a stranger in a foreign land; and here many
+of them remain, in the rooms still called by her name.
+
+The "Marble Palace" is seen to fine advantage, in the midst of lovely
+waters, from the road which leads from Potsdam to Gleinicke. It was
+the summer home of the present Emperor, while Prince William, and is
+not open to visitors.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+THE HOMES OF THE HUMBOLDTS.
+
+
+An hour by tramway, northwest of Berlin, lies Tegel, the hereditary
+estate of the Humboldt family. About two hundred years ago its hills
+and dales, pine forests and sandy plains, were the property of the
+Great Elector. Some eighty years later, a Pomeranian Major in the army
+of Frederick the Great was high in favor with the King on account of
+his distinguished service in the Seven Years' War, and was rewarded by
+gifts and promotions. To William von Humboldt, eldest son of this
+Major and Royal Chamberlain, descended the chateau and lands of the
+former royal hunting-lodge of Tegel. Though this was not, in strict
+sense, the home of the more famous younger brother, Alexander, these
+were his ancestral acres. Here he often came to this brother, whose
+death in his arms in 1835 cast a lasting shadow over his lonely life;
+and here, beside the brother and his family, his mortal part lies
+buried.
+
+A bright April morning was the time of our visit. The outskirts of a
+great city are seldom more free from unpleasant sights than the
+northern suburb through which we passed. Here and there, in the plain
+which surrounds Berlin, sandy knolls appear; now and then the tall
+chimney of a manufactory or a brewery pierces the sky; but the city
+insensibly gives place to the country. Clean-swept garden paths, trim
+hedges of gooseberry bushes just bursting into leaf, and hens
+scratching the freshly turned furrows, brought back a childlike
+delight in the spring-time; while the antiquarian tastes of later
+years were fed by glimpses of delicious old houses which raised their
+drooping eyelids in quaint gable-windows looking forth over
+ivy-mantled walls, as if in sleepy surprise at all the bustle and stir
+of this work-a-day world.
+
+One or two hamlets had been passed, and the camp, from which we had
+met a train of artillery and many companies of soldiers on their way
+to the city, when the tram-conductor announced the village of Tegel,
+the end of the route. A few rods, and a turn to the left past some
+mills brings us to the entrance of the castle park. An obelisk,
+battered and ancient-looking enough to belong to the age of Cleopatra,
+stands beside the modest iron gate of the entrance. An old
+peasant-woman passing with a pack on her back answers our question by
+saying that this is an ancient milestone which formerly stood a little
+above its present site; and we surmise that its mutilated condition is
+due to relic-hunters. Inside the gate we see a grassy plain with sandy
+patches; here and there are deep open ditches for drainage; and
+avenues stretch off in several directions, bounded by rows of great
+overarching trees. We follow one reaching toward higher ground and
+forest-covered hills. On an elevation a few rods farther on stands the
+chateau,--the old hunting-lodge no more, but a two-story Roman villa,
+rectangular, with square towers at the corners, on each face of which
+is a carved frieze with a Greek inscription. Back of this "Schloss,"
+but not hidden by it, on a smooth slope, is a large ancient one-story
+dwelling with side front, in good preservation. Its ivy mantle does
+not conceal the frame, which is filled in with stuccoed brick, and
+which alone would proclaim the age of the building. The long slope of
+the mossy roof must hide a wonderful old attic, for it is full of
+tiled "eyes" to admit light and air, and two or three single panes of
+glass are inserted in different places for the same purpose. Three
+windows on each side the low doorway in the front look forth on the
+quiet scene, the lace curtains within revealing glimpses of a cosey,
+homelike interior. On one side are supplementary buildings fit for
+companionship with this quaint home, and a fenced garden and ancient
+orchard, beyond which five woodmen were leisurely sawing an
+old-fashioned woodpile of immense size;--only princely estates can
+supply such a luxury in these degenerate days.
+
+The shadow of death was in the villa. Two days before, Frau von Buelow,
+the last of the Humboldts, had been carried forth, to rest beside her
+husband and children, her father William, and her uncle Alexander von
+Humboldt. The gnarled and twisted stem of a venerable ivy clasps with
+two arms one of the most majestic of the tall trees before the house,
+one branch bearing large leaves of a tender green, the other small and
+beautifully outlined leaves of dark maroon exquisitely veined. Beds
+bordered with box are bright with pansies. We wander onward, along the
+great shaded avenue, with level green fields on either side. An
+opening suddenly sets a study in color before our eyes. The unbroken
+stretch of sward southward is in most vivid spring green; there is a
+gleam of blue water beyond the tender purple of a distant forest,
+overhung by the fleecy cumuli of a perfect but constantly changing
+sky. It is simple and beautiful beyond description. We approach some
+wooded hills, well cared for, but lifting themselves upward in the
+beauty of Nature, not art. Buttercups and star-grass and chickweed
+arrest us occasionally by the roadside, until a wooded pathway brings
+us to a plot surrounded by an iron fence. Within, an old woman is
+trimming the ivy overspreading a grave, and there are eight or ten
+other mounds, all ivy or flower covered, and with low headstones. At
+the west end of the enclosure is a semicircular stone platform, with a
+stone seat skirting the circumference. From the centre rises a lofty
+shaft of polished granite, bearing on its summit a statue of Hope, by
+Thorwaldsen. On the pedestal are the names of William von Humboldt and
+his noble wife, and near it the newly closed grave of this daughter,
+who at the age of eighty-five, after a distinguished life, sleeps here
+beneath the funeral wreaths which hide the mound, and bear, on long
+black or white ribbons, the names of societies and eminent families
+who have sent these tributes of remembrance and affection. White
+hyacinths and lilies-of-the-valley perfume the air, and palm-branches
+lie on the new-made grave, above the flowers. I treasure an ivy leaf
+or two, given by the workwoman, and pick up a cone which has just
+fallen from a fir-tree upon the grave of Alexander, as I read the
+inscription on his headstone: "Thou too wilt at last come to the
+grave; how art thou preparing?" This simple epitaph, with name and
+age, is all, except his earthly work, that speaks for him who was
+once, after Napoleon Bonaparte, the most famous man in Europe, and
+who, in learning and in devotion to Nature, was as great as he was
+famous.
+
+From the little burial-ground we took a hill-path, hoping for a more
+distant view than we had found but hardly expecting it. Ascending
+gradually, there were glimpses of forests and hills far to the
+northward; and a porter's lodge, and stables, in a vale amid the
+trees, revealed only by the distant baying of a hound, and the blue
+smoke curling upward. Still we wound along, over the hillsides and
+under the trees, pausing occasionally to rest on simple rustic seats,
+on which were carved the initials of former pilgrims to these scenes.
+Faring onward, there came a sudden burst of light and beauty.
+
+    "Far, far o'er hill and dale"
+
+shines the blue expanse of the Tegeler See, with sunshine flooding all
+the broad acres between. The fortress spires of Spandau and the dome
+of the royal palace of Charlottenburg spring from the purple,
+forest-rimmed horizon; and beyond is a tangle of history written on
+the sky in domes and palaces and spires, I know not what, nor how
+many. To the delight of this sudden vision is added the thought of the
+generations of men and women who have trod this forest path, and whose
+eyes have been gladdened by this sight, until a file of mounted
+knights and nobles, from the Great Elector through a line of kings and
+emperors, of grand dames and fair princesses, has swept in stately
+procession down the hill-side to be followed in imagination by the
+footsteps of many of the greatest men in literature, science, and
+philosophy which Europe has brought forth, and by those of statesmen
+and diplomatists from every quarter of the globe.
+
+Returning to the chateau, we passed between it and the ancient house,
+when lo! a glance at the rear of the modern villa toward a
+second-story bay window under the spreading shade of a venerable tree
+told a new tale. I did not then know the history of the buildings, and
+it had seemed that only the low cottage was ancient, and the Roman
+villa comparatively modern. But here was a tell-tale slope of ancient
+roof, with a square port-hole of a window just beneath it, peeping
+forth behind the modern bay-window under the tree-tops, all out of
+harmony with the lines of Roman towers and roofs; and so we knew that
+the chateau was only modern in appearance, but ancient in reality.
+
+A day full of quiet beauty, not unmingled with delight, this had
+proved; worth to the heart, in some moods, acres of canvas and
+chiselled marble within the walls of royal museums. But we were not
+yet quite satisfied. In the Oranienburger Strasse in Berlin stands a
+city house of the last century. Here, with a serving-man as the real
+master of his house,--with no wife, no child,--the author of "Kosmos"
+did much of his best work.
+
+"I was often with my father in Humboldt's house during his lifetime,"
+said my German hostess to me, after my return from these visits. "He
+lived among his books, in his study in the back of the house,--the
+second story, looking into the court; for he could not bear the noise
+of the street in the front rooms."
+
+To this place we found our way in returning from Tegel. We stood
+before it in the street, and read the inscription on the marble tablet
+in the front wall: "In this house lived Alexander von Humboldt from
+the year 1842 till _he went forth_, May 6, 1859."
+
+Entering the street door, we inquired of the bright-eyed little
+daughter of the porter, who had been left in charge, if we could see
+the second floor, where Humboldt used to live. "No," said the child;
+"there is nothing to see. Others live there now. As for Humboldt, you
+can see his statue before the University!"
+
+The privilege of looking upon the home surroundings of Humboldt in
+Berlin was accorded us later, by an American gentleman into whose
+possession they had come. His massive old writing-desk, with a great
+mirror behind it, and deep drawers,--each bearing his seal,--where he
+kept his most valued curiosities and correspondence, and where now
+repose many of his autograph papers, is worth going far to see. Here,
+too, are a smaller writing-desk, his champagne glasses, quill pens,
+lamp-screen, candlestick, snuffers, and the last candle which he used.
+These and other significant and home-like memorials belong not to
+Germany, but to America, unless Germany repurchase them, as she
+should. Only in the house so long the home of their master will they
+fittingly repose, as the memorials of Goethe and Schiller adorn the
+homes that were theirs at Weimar.
+
+During the conversation with the child of the porter at the house in
+Oranienburger Strasse, I had looked into the large and pleasant court,
+and saw the great vine clambering up over the wall which must have
+been in sight from the study. Here doubtless it was that Bayard
+Taylor, the famous young traveller visiting the famous old traveller,
+had the interview which he described so vividly that at the distance
+of more than thirty years recorded bits of the conversation remain
+distinctly traced in our memory.
+
+"Humboldt showed me a chameleon," wrote Taylor, "remarking on its
+curious habit of casting one eye upward and the other downward at the
+same time,--'a faculty possessed also by some clergymen,'" added the
+facetious old man, as though he had discovered a new fact in natural
+history. Turning to a map of the Holy Land, Humboldt gave the young
+guest minute directions for his contemplated journey, until the very
+stones by the wayside seemed to grow familiar to the listener. "When
+were you there?" asked Mr. Taylor. "I was never there," replied
+Humboldt. "I prepared to go in 18--," naming a date thirty or forty
+years before. In such preparation for work lies an open secret of
+greatness.
+
+In the little cemetery at Tegel, which has now no vacant place,
+Humboldt's epitaph speaks to the living. His virtues and his faults
+are left to the judgment of the Omniscient. In the gallery of her
+great men Germany places the colossal figure of Humboldt beside that
+of Goethe. More than one century must pass before the place of either
+is finally determined in the perspective of history.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+PHILANTHROPIC WORK.
+
+
+This has many departments,--educational, humane, and religious.
+Although the churches of Berlin are sufficient for only a very small
+per cent of the population, many private and semi-public enterprises
+carried on by Christian people show a true spirit of devotion to the
+good of humanity.
+
+The "Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haues" was established some years ago by a
+grand-niece of Froebel, who endeavors thus to carry out the principles
+of her great-uncle, whose instruction and companionship she enjoyed in
+her youth. Still in the prime of life, of gracious and winning
+presence, full of noble enthusiasm in doing good and of love for
+children; a devoted student of the principles and philosophy of
+education, ably seconded by her husband, who is a member of the
+Imperial Diet, and by other gentlemen and ladies of position and
+influence, and with the faithful assistance of teachers trained under
+her own supervision,--this lady already sees the ripening fruit of
+this renowned system of education.
+
+After struggling with obstacles at the outset, on account of limited
+means and lack of accommodations, the enterprise was finally
+established at No. 16 Steinmitz Strasse, by the generosity of two of
+the gentlemen referred to; and from the time it had a settled home,
+prosperity followed.
+
+"We wish to show that all work is honorable," said the Directress to
+me, "and our teachers are all _ladies_." The aim of the institution is
+to develop healthfully and fully the children committed to its care,
+and to prepare girls to be good mothers, Kindergarten teachers,
+housekeepers, and servants. There is thus a Kindergarten proper, with
+several departments; and a training-school with two grades, in one of
+which young ladies are received who are preparing to be educators,
+and in the other, girls to be trained for household work.
+
+No distinction is made in receiving rich and poor. Having learned by
+experience that the poor truly value only that for which they make
+some return, the managers set a price upon everything, except help in
+cases of sickness. In cases of extreme poverty some member of the
+committee pays the dues; and in illness, appliances and comforts,
+medicines, and the services of a trained nurse are furnished without
+charge whenever there is need.
+
+The Kindergarten had, at the time of my visit, over one hundred
+children, between the ages of two and seven years. The price of
+tuition is about twelve cents a month to the poor, and seventy-five
+cents per month to those able to pay this larger sum. The children are
+brought in the morning by the mothers or nurses, and taken away early
+in the afternoon. They are divided into groups of about a dozen, under
+supervision of the heads of the different departments, assisted by
+those who are learning the system in the normal or training school.
+Each group has, alternating with the others, garden-play and work, and
+house-guidance and help.
+
+We were first shown into a secluded walled garden-plot, covered only
+with clean sand. The children are disciplined by freedom, as well as
+healthful restraint. In this sand-garden they are free. With their
+little wooden shovels and spoons, and with their hands, they revel in
+the sand, as all healthy children do. They were no more abashed by our
+presence than tamed and petted birdlings would be to feed from the
+hand of those they had learned to love and trust.
+
+In the next garden, radiant with spring sunshine, a lady was
+surrounded by a group who were digging, planting, watering,--veteran
+gardeners of three and a half years. They are not free, but must learn
+obedience as well as gardening during the hour they spend here.
+Pansies in bloom bordered the regular beds and trim walks, and some
+were watering them from little water-pots. The stone wall around the
+four sides of the enclosure was covered by a vine just bursting into
+leaf. This had been trained, twig by twig, against the wall, by tiny
+fingers under the guidance of the lady in charge. A rustic
+summer-house contained a table, and seats of different heights. Here
+were seeds and implements for immediate use. Every stray leaf and bit
+of waste was brought by the children to a corner appropriated to it,
+covered with earth, and left to become dressing for the beds; thus
+teaching at once the chemistry of Nature and the value of neatness and
+economy. To another corner the children were encouraged to bring all
+the stones and shells they could find; and thus a rock-grotto was
+growing.
+
+From the gardens we went into the house. In the first room the
+two-year-olds were on low seats before a long table, where each had
+his six by ten inches of sand-plot, in which, with tiny wooden shovels
+and rakes, they were laying out garden beds and sticking in green
+leaves and cut pansies to make the wilderness blossom. Behind these
+were seats and tables for those who were a little older and could do
+real work. In a large tin dish-pan, two or three, under suitable
+supervision, were washing flower-pots with sponges and tepid water;
+others were filling the clean pots by taking spoonfuls of black loam
+from another pan; others, having been shown pansy plants with roots,
+and told that the plants took nourishment and drank water by means of
+these root-mouths, were pressing them carefully into the earth-filled
+pots and giving them water. In an anteroom two or three children were
+helping to wash the leaves of ivies and other plants, having had the
+office of the leaves simply explained. All was done with such care
+that the clean faces and garments of the children were not soiled, nor
+the floor and desks littered.
+
+"We try to make one idea the centre of thought for the week,--not to
+confuse the minds of the children by too much at once," said the
+Directress. "This week it is pansies." In the garden children were
+watering pansies in bloom, and pansies were cut and dug for use in the
+house, where they were the materials for play and work. In one room
+the children had cards in their hands, in which they had pricked the
+outlines of pansies. Each had a needle threaded with a color selected
+by itself, with which to work this outline. In another room they were
+painting pansies. At Easter time the lesson was on eggs. We were shown
+eggs colored by the children in their own devices, birds' nests,
+feathers, etc. One treasure, I remember, was a blue card on which a
+barn was outlined by straws sewed to the surface, showing roof,
+hayloft, and stairs, mounting which was a lordly fowl cut from white
+paper.
+
+One room is called "the baby room." At a long low table sat nearly
+twenty children, with dolls of every size and complexion, cradles,
+baby-wagons, changes of clothing for the dolls, beds, a tiny
+kitchen-range, with furniture, and every other accessory to doll life.
+
+The bathing is a department by itself. Every child is bathed, as a
+rule, when it is received. Then in the afternoon, once a week, many
+are brought for the regular weekly bath, which is so conducted as to
+make the children like it. The cost of the weekly bath is two and a
+half cents, and the children who are old enough often remind their
+mothers to save the small coin for this purpose.
+
+All the children are given a luncheon in the middle of the forenoon.
+Parents who desire it can have a dinner of good porridge also served
+to their children, about noon, at a cost of a little more than one
+cent.
+
+As the children approach the age of six, they enter the elementary
+class, where they have slates and pencils and a blackboard, and are
+taught the elements of reading. This is the only school exercise, so
+called, connected with the institution, and is to prepare the
+children to enter the public schools. After they leave the
+Kindergarten, some are received in the afternoons,--the girls to be
+taught sewing, and the boys carpentering.
+
+The last department shown to us was the music-room. Here the little
+ones stood, and counted, and beat double time, under the direction of
+a leader, to a slow, melodious air played on the piano. Then they
+marched, keeping step, and still counting the time. After this they
+took tambourines, triangles, drums, and clappers, and made a noise, in
+perfect time and tune.
+
+"Children like a noise," said the Directress. "Here they have it, but
+under direction and limitation. Some of the boys, when they are
+received here," continued the lady, "are so very, very naughty; but
+when they come to the music-class and have this noise, then they grow
+quiet and good. If it is taken away, they get naughty again."
+
+A religious atmosphere is sought, as the only one in which
+child-nature can normally develop. They have daily morning prayers and
+songs, religious books and pictures, such as "Christ blessing Little
+Children," and at Christmas time stories of the birth of Christ.
+Benevolence in their relations to one another is sedulously
+cultivated. The four-or-five-year-olds make little wooden spades and
+rakes for the two-or-three-year-olds, saying gravely, "We do it for
+the little ones."
+
+Meetings are held by the Directress with the mothers, and in several
+parts of the city three or four mothers have united in supporting
+little Kindergartens for their own families. The teaching of the
+Directress is also put in practice by mothers in their own homes,
+where much more time is devoted to the children than formerly.
+
+As applications are constantly on hand for more than can be received
+to this institution, I asked if the revenue from fees and gifts were
+devoted to the enlargement of the accommodations. "No; for
+_perfecting_ the system and its methods," was the reply. And this
+seemed to me to be the key to this most interesting undertaking. A
+perfect development of child-nature is sought; and a Kindergarten
+means here, "not several hours a day spent in much folding of papers
+and braiding of pretty things," said the Directress, but a many-sided
+and all-embracing culture of the whole being.
+
+Having given this full account of the methods of the Kindergarten, the
+description of the department for the training of teachers may be
+omitted. Not so with the department devoted to the preparation of
+girls who have left school for the duties of wives, mothers, nurses,
+housekeepers, and servants. In this important department of the
+Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haues, over forty young women from the various ranks
+of life were gathered. It was under the special patronage of the Crown
+Princess, whose own daughters were its first pupils.
+
+The lady who directed the teaching of washing and ironing kept a close
+eye to the perfection of the work, which is all classified. At one
+time table-linen is washed and ironed properly; at another, the best
+methods of treating dish-towels are taught; at another, the washing of
+flannels and the doing up of prints and ginghams; at another,
+clear-starching, the cleansing of laces and fine materials; and so on,
+until the whole round of a family laundry has been scientifically
+taught and enforced by practice.
+
+In one room a girl of fourteen or fifteen, formerly a pupil in the
+Kindergarten, was washing windows and paint. Well dressed, she was
+poised on a step-ladder, polishing a large pane of glass with a
+chamois skin. Her pail of suds stood on the shining floor, with a bit
+of oil-cloth under it, that not a drop of water should touch the
+varnish. I involuntarily looked at the wall-paper along the edges of
+the window and door casings and baseboards, and saw that no careless
+washcloth had ever left its trail on a surface for which it was not
+designed. As I glanced back at the maiden, she was folding her towels
+and placing them in a covered basket, with a compartment for each.
+
+We were now conducted to the kitchen. It was a large and pleasant
+room, in the second or third story, with three double windows looking
+out on a beautiful garden, the floor a marble or tile mosaic, and the
+walls frescoed. Dainty curtains hung at the upper part of the windows,
+in such a way as not to exclude light or air. Opposite the windows was
+a large range, on which the dinner for the family and for various
+ladies who statedly dine in the institution was cooking. Two of the
+ten young ladies present were learning that difficult art,--the
+management of a fire so as to produce desired and exact results in
+cooking, themselves having the entire responsibility of feeding it and
+regulating the draughts. On a thin marble slab another was cutting
+fresh beef into bits, which she presently placed in a bottle for the
+purpose of preparing nourishment for a member of the family who was
+ill. The preparation of food for the sick is taught in all its
+branches with utmost care. Two had evidently reached that branch of
+the cooking art which involves the preparation of luxuries by delicate
+processes. They were seated apart, each stirring, drop by drop, oil or
+flavoring into a sauce.
+
+One of the principles taught is that of the utmost economy of
+material. The teachers, with the young ladies under instruction who
+desire it, and the nurses, constitute the family, and have good and
+wholesome food, all prepared by those who are learning cookery. The
+making of delicacies and expensive dishes is also taught; and these
+are served to certain ladies, who dine at the house to test these
+dishes, for perhaps three months at a time, gladly paying for the
+privilege. Shining tin and other utensils, wooden and iron ware of the
+most approved patterns, in every size and variety, were systematically
+ranged about the kitchen in a way really ornamental. At one side were
+weights and measures, where everything brought in was tested. A map of
+the world, showing the productions of every zone and country, hung
+beside the sugar and spice table; and beside it was a glass cupboard,
+containing phials showing the analysis of every article of food. One
+small table was devoted to good and bad samples of household food
+supplies, the samples being in cubical boxes about an inch and a half
+each way, set into a large box with compartments, the whole so
+arranged as to show easily the qualities to be desired and those not
+to be desired by the purchaser. The book-keeper had her desk and
+account-books, where the amount of every article purchased and its
+cost were duly entered.
+
+The superintendent of the kitchen, with fine and ladylike courtesy,
+showed us her book of written questions, which those under her charge
+were required to be able to answer both from a scientific and a
+practical standpoint.
+
+One department of this domestic school is the supervision of a
+milk-route. The children of Berlin, like those of all large cities,
+especially among the poor, suffer for want of milk, or of that which
+is good. Here the milk of two or three large dairies in the country is
+bought by the Kindergarten committee. It costs them, by wholesale,
+much less than people in the city pay for poor milk. This good milk
+is supplied at a low price by an attendant, who is directed to carry
+the milk into the dwelling, instead of requiring the poor mother to
+leave her children and go to the wagon for it, as is the general
+custom.
+
+In the sewing-room mending and darning alternate, on certain days,
+with the cutting and making of plain garments. This department
+supplements the teaching of sewing in the public schools by
+instruction in only the higher kinds of plain sewing, and the surgery
+required to make "old clothes almost as good as new."
+
+Every part of the duty and work of an ordinary nurse is taught, like
+all the other departments, with the utmost faithfulness and
+excellence; and this department was supported by the Crown Princess.
+As we passed from the bathing-department, we met a sweet-faced nurse
+going out, who immediately returned with us, throwing off her alpaca
+duster, and showing, unasked, her private rooms to the unexpected
+American visitors with the greatest cordiality and the most ladylike
+grace. Refinement and perfect order characterized the rooms. There
+were closets with shelves filled with bed-linen and undergarments for
+the sick in every size. This bedding and clothing is loaned to the
+sick poor without charge, on the sole condition that they shall return
+it clean. The washed and ironed articles neatly piled and folded
+bespoke both gratitude and faithfulness on the part of beneficiaries.
+Water-beds and other appliances for the use and comfort of the sick
+were stored in another place, and in still another were garments kept
+for gifts to the convalescent and particularly needy. As the nurse
+kneeled to replace a water-bed she had been showing us, the Lady
+Director lifted an ornament which she wore about her neck on a silver
+chain. Her color deepened prettily, as we saw that it was the monogram
+of the Crown Princess in silver, bestowed only for brave and specially
+meritorious service in nursing.
+
+If Germany is too slow, as we believe, in according to women the
+opportunity for higher education, surely this institution sets a noble
+example in that which to the world in general is of vast and
+incalculable importance.
+
+A mission to the cabmen of Berlin is conducted by a benevolent lady
+with great modesty but with most eminent success. The Berlin cabman
+is a picturesque object In summer he wears a dark blue suit with
+silvered buttons, a vest and collar of scarlet, and a black hat with a
+cockade and a white or yellow band. In winter, a great Astrakhan cap
+with tassels surmounts his bronzed features, he is enveloped in a long
+blue great-coat with a cape, and his feet are encased in immense boots
+with soles often from one to two inches thick. The covered carriage
+known as a drosky is a rather lumbering vehicle on four wheels.
+Formerly every one rode in these droskies, the fares being very low.
+But within a few years the tram-car, which is increasingly popular,
+has diverted patronage from the cabs, and the times are hard for the
+cabman. He must pay a certain sum to the company which controls the
+cabs, for the use and keeping of the horse and vehicle; must purchase
+his uniform at his own expense; and if his receipts bring him anything
+over and above these outlays, he has the surplus for the support of
+himself and family. How the average cabman in Berlin manages in this
+way to live, is a mystery. His family must dwell in a cellar or attic,
+or eke out their subsistence by taking lodgers, washing, or by any
+other means which they can find. All must live on insufficient food;
+and this, with constant exposure to the weather and enforced idleness
+much of the time, is a constant temptation to drinking-habits.
+Beer-shops are numerous near the cab-stands; and the small change in
+the cabman's pocket often goes into their coffers, when it should be
+saved for the poor wife and children in his wretched home.
+
+About twenty years ago a German lady of noble birth, an invalid,
+employed as her substitute in doing good among the poor a Christian
+widow, whom she instructed to go out among the cabmen and their
+families. This work is still under the supervision of the lady who
+began it, and, now restored to health, she gives a large part of her
+time and means to this mission, assisted by a deaconess and six
+Bible-women under her direction, who reach the families of about eight
+hundred cabmen. If possible, the cabman is won, often through his
+family; and sometimes the long idle hours on his drosky-box are
+beguiled by the memorizing of verses from the little Testament given
+him to carry in his pocket. Then a circulating library is kept
+constantly in use by the Bible-woman, who carries a book in her bag to
+each house which she visits, leaving it until her round again gives
+the opportunity of taking it up and putting another in its place. Best
+of all is the friendship which springs up between these poor people
+and their helpers. Doubt, anxiety, trouble, misfortune, all find
+loving sympathy; and when serious illness comes, especially in
+contagious and malignant diseases, when friends and neighbors flee,
+then this mission brings light into the darkness. The deaconess is
+also a trained nurse, to whom a yearly stipend is given, that she may
+devote her entire time to the work; and she is constantly going from
+one family to another, as scarlet-fever, diphtheria, and other
+diseases call for her help.
+
+As a special favor, I was allowed, with a few other American friends,
+to be present at an evening tea-meeting, such as are held frequently
+for the cabmen and their wives. An opening hymn, in which all joined,
+was sung; a passage of Scripture was read, and prayer offered. A
+"Gospel song" was well sung by a German gentleman as a solo, and then
+there was a familiar address from the eloquent Court-preacher Frommel.
+Another prayer followed, another song, and then the tea was served.
+
+In a side room, separated by sliding doors from the audience, I had
+noticed, when we entered, ladies flitting about long tables and
+hovering over white china. The Countess Waldersee was there, in simple
+apparel, helping to pass the tea and abundant cakes and sandwiches, as
+were also two granddaughters of Chevalier Bunsen, and other
+representatives of honorable and noble Christian families.
+
+Meantime the Baroness who is the cherishing mother of this work was
+helping, as occasion required; both she and her deaconess going from
+one row of seats to another, speaking a friendly word here, bestowing
+a greeting or answering an inquiry there, and unconsciously followed
+by a wake of happiness everywhere. As the wounded soldiers in Crimean
+hospitals turned to kiss the shadow of Florence Nightingale passing
+them, there was surely gladness in hearts and on faces here that would
+have counted it a privilege to kiss the place hallowed by the
+footsteps of these Christian women.
+
+About four hundred were present in the plain Moravian Chapel which is
+always used for these tea-meetings. Fewer men than women were present,
+as many of the cabmen must be at their posts until near midnight.
+From time to time the Bible-woman at the door softly opened it for the
+entrance of one who had thought it better to come late than not at
+all. As these men in their picturesque garb came, cold and hungry,
+into the warm and well-lighted room, I looked to see if their physical
+wants were supplied before they were asked to partake of the spiritual
+feast. To my great satisfaction I discerned that a well-filled table
+had been spread just inside the entrance-door, from which they were
+served as soon as chairs had been handed them; and from time to time
+great motherly tea-pots went the rounds, to fill all cups a second
+time. When they had been warmed and fed, they often moved forward to
+be nearer the speakers; and when the exercises were over, one and
+another found his wife in the audience, and together they went out. As
+this was going forward, a parting hymn was struck, which seemed to
+form no part of the programme. Inquiring, I was told that this was
+always sung in parting, in remembrance of an occasion very sad, but
+also very precious, to their benefactress.
+
+The sullen roar of a great coming conflict of social elements breaks
+on the shore of every land, now rising, now lulling, but every day
+drawing nearer. The simple chapel of this scene is little more than a
+stone's-throw from the palace of the Chancellor of the German Empire.
+Here, in sympathy and helpfulness, and not there, in absolutism, will
+be heard the Voice which only can say, "Peace, be still!"--the Voice
+which says to-day, as of old, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of
+the least of these, ye have done it unto me."
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association of Berlin has the hearty
+sympathy and assistance of Count Bernsdorff, lately an officer of the
+Empress Augusta's household and well known in diplomatic circles, of
+Court-preacher Frommel, and others widely known in other spheres of
+influence. Its intelligence-office has had nearly fifty thousand calls
+for advice and help in a single year, and twenty committees from its
+membership actively co-operate in different lines of work. Besides its
+various religious meetings, daily and weekly, at which there was an
+aggregate attendance of between fifteen and twenty thousand in one
+recent year, it maintains a well-equipped reading-room and library, a
+hall for gymnastic exercises, and fine reception-rooms. Tea-meetings
+are also frequently held here; and two courses of lectures in English
+and two courses in French are given, besides courses of instruction in
+stenography and book-keeping. A male quartette gives frequent musical
+entertainments, and in one winter thirteen "musical evenings" held
+forth manifold attractions to this music-loving people.
+
+The Committee of Ladies co-operating in this work assists in obtaining
+positions, manages tea-meetings, etc.; and the management asserts that
+it increasingly realizes "how important is the eye and hand of woman
+in all its work." The magnificent gardens and park attached to the War
+Department were, during our visit to Berlin, opened on a beautiful May
+afternoon and evening, by the co-operation of the Countess Waldersee
+and under the patronage of the Prince and Princess William, to a
+promenade concert for the benefit of this Association. Two of the
+finest military bands alternated in rendering popular and classical
+music; and few who were present will ever forget the striking scene,
+where, amid the flower-bordered lawns, under sunset skies slowly
+fading through the long twilight into the gayly lighted evening,
+hundreds of ladies and gentlemen, some in bright military uniforms,
+some with the insignia of rank, and some with only the stamp of
+Nature's noblemen, gathered about the refreshment-tables, chatted in
+groups apart, or sauntered along the fine old avenues under the
+towering trees or beside the lakes and fountains, the hours seeming
+all too short under the inspiration of the place and the music. Prince
+William, always in uniform, and the charming Princess, on this
+occasion in the simplest and plainest dress, mingled quietly with the
+company. As we passed out through the great gateway between nine and
+ten o'clock, the steeds of their State carriage were champing, and
+pawing the pavement of the quadrangle, held in check by the officials
+who were awaiting their return.
+
+The Crown Princess Frederick was the patroness of nearly every
+undertaking in Berlin for the good of women and children, and, with
+her noble husband, often visited among them. "On one occasion," said a
+German lady to me, "some one asked of the Crown Prince the particulars
+of a certain benevolent enterprise. 'Ask my wife,' replied the Prince;
+'she knows everything,'" It is certain that, from Kindergarten and
+other schools, to cooking-schools, training-schools for nurses,
+hospitals, and a school for the daughters of officers who would be
+taught art, literature, science, as a practical help in the battle of
+self-support, there seemed to be no enterprise which could not count
+as its chief patron the Crown Princess Victoria. The aged Empress
+Augusta was also the patron of girls' schools and soup-kitchens, to
+the number of more than a dozen, and was counted by many the especial
+friend of the very poor.
+
+One of the most interesting institutions to which we had access was
+founded upwards of twenty years ago by Dr. Adolph Lette, of Berlin,
+whose plans have since his death been faithfully carried out by his
+daughter, Frau Schepeler-Lette, who devotes nearly her entire time to
+its supervision. It was also under the patronage of the Crown
+Princess. Its object is to promote the higher education and practical
+industry of women, and to render single and friendless women the help
+and protection so much needed in all large cities. Many English and
+some American girls have reason to bless this institution, which knows
+no rank, no nationality, but only need, as the password to its
+gracious and abounding ministries.
+
+One of its departments is the Charlotten-Stiftung, intended to help
+destitute daughters of German noblemen and military and civil officers
+to earn their own livelihood by giving them a practical education,
+especially in dress-making, cooking, and the management of a
+household. This department was founded and endowed by a noble German
+lady with property yielding an annual income of nearly twenty thousand
+dollars.
+
+Another department is the Bank of Loans. Its object is to assist
+unmarried women in establishing and maintaining shops, especially
+those who wish to establish business in some art-industry. No
+individual loan is to exceed one hundred and fifty dollars, and each
+is to be repaid in small instalments at five per cent interest. One
+per cent of the loan is to be repaid within four weeks after it is
+made, and the remainder in small specified sums fortnightly. The
+annual income of the "Bank of Loans" is about two thousand dollars.
+
+These departments, though most successful, are subordinate in interest
+to the main work of the Lette-Verein, as at present conducted, which
+has a commercial training-school, a school of industry and drawing,
+and a school of fine arts.
+
+The commercial school offers two courses, of one and two years
+respectively. Girls and women, married or unmarried, are there offered
+the advantages of thorough instruction in writing and stenography,
+commercial reckoning and correspondence, book-keeping, knowledge of
+goods, commerce, banking affairs, and money matters in general.
+Lessons in French, English, and German, in Grammar, Geography,
+Correspondence, and Conversation, are also given. The fee for tuition
+is about forty dollars per annum.
+
+We were much interested in the School of Industry. Here were girls and
+women, mostly young, in bright, cheery, and well-lighted rooms, going
+through all stages of graded and scientific instruction in the cutting
+and making of dresses, mantles, and underwear, plain needlework, and
+in all kinds of embroidery and lace-work. The use of a sewing-machine
+is taught in a term of two months, six lessons each week. Millinery in
+all branches, the making of the finest artificial flowers by French
+methods, glove-making by machinery, and hair-dressing are practically
+carried on for the instruction of those who wish to learn these
+industries.
+
+A school of cookery, in which we were allowed to inspect the
+scientific classification and analysis of provisions and to test the
+appetizing results of numerous ladylike pupils in various stages of
+proficiency, impressed us with the inestimable value of its training.
+
+In all these departments the pupils are expected to pay moderate fees,
+varying from twenty-five cents to one dollar per week; and entrance to
+any department can be made on the first of every month.
+
+Two lessons per week are given in the science of teaching, for a term
+of six months.
+
+The Employment Bureau has a vast correspondence, and is an agency of
+great good, as a medium of communication between women and girls in
+want of positions, and the employers of labor.
+
+A school and lodging-house for the training of servant-girls has been
+much called for, and has lately been started.
+
+The Drawing-School has a seminary for the training of teachers, and a
+school for teaching the different branches of industrial drawing.
+There are free-hand drawing from copies and plaster models,
+perspective and geometrical drawing, the drawing and painting of
+ornamental and practical designs, and flower-painting on wood, china,
+and paper, with thorough courses of one and two years in the History
+of Art. Modelling in clay, wax, and designs for gold and silver
+industry, bronzes, etc., are given eight hours in each week.
+
+There is also a school of type-setting in connection with the Berlin
+Typographical Company, in which female compositors over the age of
+sixteen may be received, to the number of thirty-six, under the close
+supervision of the Lette-Verein, and at which, after an apprenticeship
+of six months, all pupils are paid for their work.
+
+There is a boarding-house, called the Victoria-Stift, in connection
+with this institution, with a _cafe_ or refreshment-room, where the
+tables are supplied, to ladies, at economical prices, from the
+cooking-school. It has also a lending-library and a Victoria Bazar,
+where all kinds of needlework done by the pupils are offered for sale,
+and orders are taken for family sewing.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+AROUND BERLIN.
+
+
+Berlin, on account of its general healthfulness and its combination of
+economical and other attractions, is esteemed by many experienced
+travellers as, on the whole, the continental city best adapted to an
+extended residence abroad. To the visitor with limited time, the city
+itself and Potsdam--"the Prussian Versailles"--monopolize the
+attention. But to those who can spend more time there, the attractive
+environs and places which may be seen within the limits of a day's
+excursion are many and varied.
+
+Gruenewald, not far beyond Charlottenburg, is the seat of a royal
+hunting-lodge, and its fine old woods are most attractive. It may be
+reached by railway and steam-tram, and also, in summer, by water. The
+extensive forest occupies a great stretch of country below the
+junction of the Spree with the Havel, which here, on the west, loiters
+and meanders and turns upon itself; now spreading out into wide lakes,
+now narrowing to a thread, but finally reaching in its dubious course
+the wide-flowing Elbe. The great bay into which the Havel here expands
+has pretty islands and shores. Pichelsberg, at the northern extremity
+of the bay, is a place of popular resort, where observation of Nature
+is rather concentrated on that branch known as human nature. Wansee,
+at the southern extremity, is picturesque and rural,--a delightful
+place in which to spend a quiet day in early summer.
+
+Spandau, eight miles west of Berlin, at the junction of the Spree with
+the Havel, has much historical and military interest. Here, surrounded
+by immense fortifications, is the workshop of the German army; and
+here in the citadel, or old "Julius tower," are kept "the sinews of
+war," in the form of a reserve military fund of from fifteen million
+to thirty million dollars.
+
+The railway toward Hanover leads on from Spandau to the long-settled
+region near the crossing of the Elbe, which here flows northward
+between high banks. Not far from the Elbe is the railway station of
+Schoenhausen, some two hours' ride from Berlin. The estate of
+Schoenhausen had been in the Bismarck family two hundred and fifty
+years, when the Chancellor was born there in 1815. Later, this old
+family inheritance passed to other ownership; but the numerous friends
+and admirers of the great diplomatist repurchased it, and presented it
+to him on his seventieth birthday, April 1, 1885. The great
+gratification of possessing this ancient home hardly induces Prince
+von Bismarck to spend much time there. Possibly it is within too easy
+reach of his cares in the capital. The distant Friedrichsruh in the
+forest of Sachsenswald, within a dozen miles of Hamburg, and more than
+one hundred and fifty miles northwest of Berlin, is his favorite
+residence; and Varzin, upwards of two hundred miles to the northeast,
+in Baltic Pomerania, sometimes wins him to its still greater quiet and
+seclusion. Here Bismarck received our countryman, the historian
+Motley, and his daughter, with the delightful welcome to companionship
+and the simple and informal family life so charmingly portrayed in
+Motley's correspondence.
+
+The whole region of Schoenhausen was as early settled as Berlin itself.
+Fine old churches, castles, and mediaeval town walls mark the
+neighboring towns of Stendal and Tangermuende, the latter the long-time
+seat of the Margraves of Brandenburg.
+
+A short detour from the main line to the northwest of Berlin brings
+one to Fehrbellin, where the Great Elector defeated a Swedish army
+double the size of his own. In the same region are Neu Ruppin and
+Rheinsberg, each connected with many memories of the youth of
+Frederick the Great. At the Castle of Rheinsberg he spent the
+comparatively happy years of his unhappy married life. His neglected
+queen, who never saw his favorite palace at Sans Souci, and who was
+wife and queen only in name for many long years, said that the early
+days at Rheinsberg were her happiest. Though these places are hardly
+more than thirty miles northwest of Berlin, lack of railway
+connections renders it impracticable to visit them in a single day.
+
+The most direct thoroughfare to Copenhagen, that by way of Rostock,
+passes, outside the elevated railway known as the Ringbahn, the
+village of Pankow, also reached by tramway, and also once the
+residence of the Queen of Frederick the Great. This road leads north
+from Berlin, at first through a country dotted with lakes. Our memory
+of these is of beautiful sheets of water, surrounded by the green of
+mid-June, and over-arched by the blue sky and the fleecy cumuli of a
+perfect summer day. The characteristic North German landscape was here
+seen to fine advantage. The color of the cottages and farm-houses
+harmonizes or contrasts beautifully with the landscape. Roofs of brown
+weather-beaten thatch or of dull red tiles, in the midst of embowering
+trees and shrubbery, formed for us pictures of beauty long to be
+remembered. Frienwalde, to the northeast, has mineral springs in the
+most attractive part of Brandenburg, and is growing as a place of
+summer resort. The fine old monastery, and the ruined early Gothic
+abbey-church of Chorin on the Stettin Railway, the burial-place of the
+Margraves of Brandenburg, are interesting to all students of
+architecture.
+
+An eastern suburb of Berlin is Koepenick, in the chateau of which the
+youthful Frederick the Great was tried for his life by court-martial,
+by order of his tyrannical father; and in the same direction, an hour
+from Berlin by express-train, is Cuestrin, whose strong castle was the
+scene of his subsequent imprisonment, and where, in sight from his
+window, his noble friend, Lieutenant von Katte, was beheaded on the
+ramparts for no other crime than fidelity to his young master.
+
+Another most interesting excursion is that to Frankfort-on-the-Oder,
+two hours eastward of Berlin. This largest city of Brandenburg outside
+the capital has a varied history, dating from before the time when
+this region was won from the heathen Slavs to Germany and
+Christianity. This old stronghold of the Wendish race saw many
+vicissitudes in the great wars of the sixteenth and seventeenth
+centuries, being the last important place on the great trading-route
+from Poland to Berlin. It has annual fairs which are relics of these
+olden times, interesting mediaeval churches, and a town-house bearing
+on its gable the device of the Hanseatic League,--an oblique rod
+supported by a shorter perpendicular one.
+
+To the southeast, a few miles out on the Goerlitz Railway, is
+Wusterhausen, in the picturesque region of the frequented
+Mueggelsberge,--itself made memorable by an episode in Carlyle's pages.
+
+No more fascinating trip can be taken in summer, after Berlin and
+Potsdam have been visited, than to the wild and beautiful
+Spreewald,--a combination of forest and morass not yet wholly redeemed
+to the civilization of Europe, but holding in its remoter depths a
+genuine relic of the old barbarism. The Goerlitz Railway skirts this
+forest for twenty-five miles before reaching Luebben, some two hours
+from Berlin in a southerly direction. This is the best point of
+departure from the train for a visit to the forest, which is cut by
+more than two hundred arms of the Spree, some parts of the wood only
+to be reached by boats or skates. Here, in their villages reclaimed
+from the swamps, live the descendants of the aboriginal Wends, who
+have preserved intact their language, their manners, and their modes
+of dress. This Venice of North-central Germany has for streets the
+water-ways of the Spree, and for palaces the log huts of the
+aboriginal race; but no views of Nature are more exquisite than some
+of those in the Upper and Lower Spreewald.
+
+Twenty-two miles west of Potsdam, on the Havel, is the city of
+Brandenburg,--the old Brennabor of the Slavic people who fortified it
+before the beginning of modern history. The Castle of Brandenburg may
+share with the celebrated and beautiful one of Meissen, near Dresden,
+the honor of being the oldest in Germany. Conquered from the original
+owners by the Emperor Henry I. in 927, it was by them retaken. More
+than two centuries afterwards, Albert the Bear captured and kept it,
+and thenceforth styled himself First Margrave of Brandenburg. For six
+hundred years this old town shared in all the strifes of that
+turbulent and passionate time between the midnight of the Dark Ages
+and the dawn of modern history, and its old buildings will tell much
+of its forgotten story to any one who lays his ear beside their
+ancient stones to hear.
+
+At Steglitz, a southwest suburb, may be seen the mulberry plantation
+and the one silk manufactory of Berlin. It was not our lot to find the
+large nurseries and hot-houses which make the flower-shops and
+market-places of Berlin exquisitely radiant with blossoms at all
+seasons,--beyond even the famous Madeleine flower-market at Paris in
+the season when we visited it--and, if so, surpassing in this respect
+all other cities.
+
+One of the two routes to Dresden and Leipsic passes Lichterfelde, five
+miles from Berlin, where conspicuous buildings are the seat of the
+chief cadet-school in Germany. Here are accommodations for eight or
+nine hundred cadets, the flower of German youth. Neither pains nor
+expense has been spared in the erection and embellishment of these
+extensive buildings. The "Flensburg Lion," erected by the Danes to
+commemorate a former victory in Schleswig-Holstein over the Prussians,
+and later captured by the latter, stands here before the house of the
+Commandant.
+
+Five or six miles farther on is Gross-Beeren, a Napoleonic battlefield
+where Buelow won a victory over the French in 1813; and about an hour
+and a half from Berlin, in the same direction, is the little city of
+Jueterbok, with interesting old edifices. The student of the
+Reformation will feel most interest in this place as that where Tetzel
+was selling his famous "indulgences" when Luther, protesting in
+righteous wrath, nailed to the door of the Wittenberg Church the
+ninety-five theses which set all Germany ablaze. One of these
+"indulgences" is kept for inspection in the Nicolai Kirche of
+Jueterbok. Near by are the old Cistercian abbey of Zinna, and another
+battlefield, Dennewitz, an important strategic point in one of the
+campaigns against the First Napoleon, where the victory of Buelow over
+Ney and Oudinot saved Berlin from the hands of the enemy.
+
+No student of history--especially no Protestant--can afford to visit
+Berlin without an excursion to Wittenberg, which may either be
+compressed into a single day, with a few hours in this old University
+town which was the cradle of the Reformation, or may be pleasantly
+prolonged to days full of musing on the manifold phases of that
+unparalleled movement in the history of religious thought, amid the
+very scenes with which they were most intimately associated. Not alone
+that Germany is to-day what Luther, more than any other man, has made
+it, but as heirs to the inheritance which he bequeathed to all lands
+and ages, are Americans called to the profound study of the epoch
+which Luther shaped, and of which our age is but a part. Of all
+intense pleasures, none to us was greater than a humble pilgrimage
+through Germany where our feet were set in the footprints of the
+Reformer.
+
+Quaint Eisleben, with the house where he was born, and that in whose
+chamber he was suddenly stricken with mortal pain, while his companions
+watched with awe the passing to higher service of that valiant soul, we
+had visited before we looked upon Wittenberg. Mansfield, too, with its
+flaming forges and its vast cinder-heaps,--where Hans Luther, the
+miner, toiled to feed his wife and babes,--we had seen; and historic
+Erfurt, with memories of the University where he studied and the
+monastery into which he went, taking with him, of all his books, only
+his Plautus and his Virgil, to study the Latin Bible chained to its
+post, and to fight that mental battle which toughened his sinews for
+the world-conflicts awaiting him; and whence he emerged at the call of
+his Superior, a young priest of twenty-five years, to take the
+professorship offered him at the new University of Wittenberg. At
+lovely Eisenach we had tarried for days; had entered the door of the
+once grand house of the burgomaster Cotta, before which little Martin,
+with the other charity boys of the school near by, had sung Christmas
+carols for his bread, and where he had been taken to the heart and the
+home of Mother Ursula; had peeped into the room there that was his,
+and been driven up the mountain-side beyond the village whose crown is
+the fine old castle of the Wartburg; had stood at the solitary casement
+of the room where he fought with the devil, and looked out over the
+magnificent panorama of wooded mountains and beautiful valley where he
+looked forth day after day of those ten months of mysterious
+imprisonment, into which friendly hands had thrust him from the thick
+of the fight,--where he saw the miracle of spring-time creeping over
+the hills and waving trees far beneath him, and heard and felt the
+wintry winds howl around his solitude. He was only thirty-five, but he
+had already come into conflict with the mightiest power on earth, and
+his life was forfeited, when here he slowly came to know that God had
+thoughts of good and not of evil concerning him; and here he began
+another work,--the translation of the New Testament,--for which he
+never would have had time if left to himself. Eisenach, with its
+dramatic situation, perhaps lingers longest in the memory of men of any
+place connected with that great story. But if it bore a more poetic
+share, it was not the most important. It was neither at Leipsic nor at
+Heidelberg, at Nueremberg nor at Speyer, at Augsburg nor even at Worms,
+that the great drama had its chief location, though memories of Luther
+were to us among the conspicuous attractions of these places.
+
+From the time when the young monk emerged from Erfurt, where his
+preparation for life was made, until at sixty-three he had "finished
+his course," Wittenberg was his only home. For thirty-eight long years
+here his heart was, and here, like the needle to the pole, the
+direction of his activities constantly turned. Here, in the old
+Augustinian monastery, is the lecture-room and the ancient "cathedra"
+from which he delivered those lectures which laid the foundation of
+his fame in the early years of his professorship. Here he quietly
+wrought at his translation of the Bible and discharged the duties of
+his position, while his voice shook the world, and all Europe was
+swaying in the storm, himself the calm centre of the whirlwind. Here,
+at the age of forty-two, he brought his bride, the nun Katherine von
+Bora; and in this monastery, presented to him by his friend the
+Elector, his six children were born. Hither, when his work was done,
+his lifeless form was borne, followed by a weeping funeral procession
+which stretched across Germany; and here in the church which had been
+the scene of so many great sermons, he was laid to rest, with room for
+Melanchthon beside him. Here one may enter that other church where he
+first administered the communion in both kinds to the laity; may read
+the immortal theses, now in enduring bronze on the doors of the castle
+church; may pluck a leaf from the oak-tree planted on the spot outside
+the city gate where he burned the papal bull; may sit in the
+window-seat of his family-room, surrounded by his table, his bench,
+and his stove, and listen where that family music seems still to echo;
+may wander in the old garden, amid the representatives of the trees
+which shaded him, and the flowers and birds he loved; may sit at the
+stone table in Melanchthon's garden where the names of the friends are
+inscribed; may stand before their statues in the market-place and hear
+his voice: "If it be God's work, it will endure; if man's, it will
+perish."
+
+As we live over these days and realize afresh all that history can
+tell us of the wondrous story, we know that not the polish and the
+learning of its scientists, its philosophers, and its men of letters,
+not the prowess of its soldiers and its military leaders, have made
+United Germany possible, but that Bible which Luther translated for
+the German people,--that standard of the German tongue which through
+all the conflicts of three centuries and a half has defied the power
+of diverse interests, and cemented and preserved the integrity of the
+nation.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+Academy of Arts and Sciences, 53.
+
+American Chapel, 91-93.
+
+American Thanksgiving Banquet, 94.
+
+Americans in Berlin, 98, 188.
+
+Antiquarium, 105.
+
+Apartments, 15.
+
+Army, 139.
+
+Army Bill, debate on, 127.
+
+Arsenal, 111-113.
+
+Art Collections, 108-110.
+
+
+Babelsburg, 206-208.
+
+Bach's Passion Music, 147.
+
+Bank, Imperial, 193.
+
+Belle Alliance Platz, 190.
+
+Berlin,
+  Cathedral, 79.
+  Cathedral service, 80.
+  character of, 9, 249.
+  church attendance, 82.
+  climate, 14.
+  latitude, 14.
+  Old Berlin, 172.
+  parade, 141.
+
+Bethanien, 194.
+
+Birthdays, 20.
+
+Bismarck, Chancellor von, 125-130, 154, 156, 171, 251.
+  palace of, 175, 183.
+
+Bornstedt, 203.
+
+Boerse, 84, 193.
+
+Botanical Gardens, 189.
+
+Brandenburg, Castle and City of, 256.
+
+Brandenburg Gate, 179, 187.
+
+Buelow, Frau von, 212, 214.
+
+Bundesrath, 131.
+
+
+Cabmen's Mission, 235.
+
+Cemeteries,
+  Dorotheen-Stadt, 191.
+  Garrison Kirche, 191.
+  Matthai, 189.
+  Sophien Kirche, 191.
+
+Charlottenburg, 196, 198-201, 215.
+  Mausoleum at, 200.
+
+Charlottenhof, 205.
+
+Chorin, 253.
+
+Christmas, 21.
+
+Churches of Berlin,
+  Cathedral, 79.
+  Chapel, American, 91.
+  English, 90.
+  French, 85.
+  Garrison, 82, 86.
+  Heiliggeist, 84.
+  Jerusalems, 85.
+  Kloster, 84.
+  Marien. 84.
+  New, 85.
+  Nicolai, 82, 85.
+  Trinity, 87.
+
+City Prison, 193.
+
+Closets, 16.
+
+Concerts, 48-50.
+
+Cornelius, cartoons, 107.
+
+Crown Prince Frederick, 100, 102.
+  as Emperor, 111, 142-151, 171, 195-199.
+  birthplace, 205.
+  new palace, Friedrichskron, 196, 205.
+  funeral service, 102.
+
+Crown Princess Victoria, 91, 100, 102, 143, 145, 146, 152, 154,
+  206-208, 244, 246.
+
+Cuestrin, 254.
+
+
+Dennewitz, 258.
+
+Donhof Platz, 190.
+
+Dryander, 87.
+
+
+Easter, 35.
+
+Educational system, 59-61.
+
+Eisenach, 259, 260.
+
+Eisleben, 259.
+
+Elevators, 11.
+
+Emperor Wm. I., 81, 95, 100, 133, 136-138, 177, 186.
+  ninetieth birthday, 159-166.
+  palace, 195.
+  burial-place, 201.
+
+Emperor Wm. II. (Prince William, 130), 151, 205, 208.
+  Princess William, 152.
+
+English Church, 90.
+
+Erfurt, 259.
+
+
+Fehrbellin, 252.
+
+Fichte, grave of, 191.
+
+Fouque, De la Motte, grave of, 191.
+
+Frankfort-on-Oder, 254.
+
+Frederick Wm. I., 204.
+
+Frederick II. (the Great), 196, 204, 252-254.
+  statue of, 180.
+
+Frederick Wm. III., 135, 200.
+
+Frederick Wm. IV., 136, 200, 203.
+
+Friedrichsruh, 251.
+
+Frienwalde, 253.
+
+Frommel, 86.
+
+Funerals, 30.
+
+Furniture, 16-18.
+
+
+German Army, 139.
+
+Germany, a military power, 10.
+
+Good Friday, 33, 34.
+
+Great Elector, statue of, 173, 182.
+
+Grimm brothers, graves of, 189.
+
+Gross-Beeren, 257.
+
+Gruenewald, 249.
+
+Gymnasia, 59-61.
+
+
+Hanse League, 192.
+  device of, 254.
+
+Hegel, grave of, 191.
+
+Hildesheim, silver service, 105.
+
+Hospitals, 194.
+
+Humboldt, Alexander von, 81, 85, 205, 210-220.
+
+Humboldt, William von, 209-214.
+
+
+Insane Asylum, 194.
+
+
+Jews,
+  synagogue, 90.
+    music, 88-90.
+    service, 88-90.
+
+Jueterbok, 257.
+
+
+Kaiserhof, 11.
+
+Kaulbach, frescos, 107.
+
+Knights of Malta, 185.
+
+Koeln, 172.
+
+Koepenick, 253.
+
+Kreuzberg, 190.
+
+
+Lette-Verein,
+  Bank of Loans, 245.
+  Charlotten-Stiftung, 245.
+  Commercial School, 246.
+  Drawing School, 247.
+  Employment Bureau, 247.
+  School of Industry, 246.
+  School of Type-setting, 248.
+  Victoria-Stift, 248.
+
+Library, Royal, 54-58.
+
+Lichterfelde, 257.
+
+Lodgings, 12.
+
+Luebben, 255.
+
+Lueneberg, silver service, 123.
+
+Luther, 80, 84, 258-260, 263.
+
+
+Manners, 23-26.
+
+Mansfield, 259.
+
+Mausoleum, 200.
+
+Meals, 14, 30, 45-47.
+
+Mendelssohn, Fanny, 132.
+
+Mendelssohn, Felix, 132.
+
+Mendelssohn family, graves of, 191.
+
+Mint, Imperial, 193.
+
+Moabit, 193.
+
+Moltke, General von, 127-130, 156, 171.
+
+Museums,
+  Ethnographical, 123.
+  Hohenzollern, 118-120.
+  Industrial, 121-123.
+  Maerkische, 124.
+  National Gallery, 107, 173, 174.
+  New, 105.
+    Coins, 106.
+    Engravings, 107.
+    Sculpture, 106.
+  Old, 103, 108, 174, 182.
+
+
+Napoleon I., 177, 180.
+
+Napoleon III., 146, 200.
+
+Neander, home of, 185.
+  grave of, 190.
+
+Neu Ruppin, 252.
+
+
+Old Schloss, Berlin, 173, 182, 196-198.
+
+
+Pankow, 253.
+
+Parishes, 82.
+
+Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haues, 221.
+  domestic department, 230.
+  Kindergarten, 223-229.
+
+Pichelsberg, 250.
+
+Postal system, 118.
+
+Potsdam, 201.
+  Babelsburg, 206.
+  Friedenskirche, 101, 206.
+  Garrison Church, 99, 203.
+  New Palace, 203-205.
+  Old Schloss, 203.
+  Roman Bath, 205.
+  Sans Souci, 201-203.
+
+Prince Albert of Prussia, palace of, 183.
+
+Prince Frederick Charles, palace of, 184.
+
+Prussian Parliament, 131.
+
+
+Queen Louise, 136, 187, 199.
+
+
+Raphael Tapestry, 104.
+
+Rath-haus, 172, 191.
+
+Raths-Keller, 192.
+
+Reichstag, 125-131.
+
+Rheinsberg, 252.
+
+Richter, 127-129.
+
+Rohrpost, 114.
+
+
+Schiller Platz, 85, 189.
+
+Schleiermacher, home of, 185.
+
+Schliemann, remains, 124.
+
+Schoenhausen, 251.
+
+Schools,
+  girls, 63-74.
+  Real, 60.
+
+Sculpture, 106.
+
+Society, 29.
+
+Spandau, 215, 250.
+
+Spreewald, 255.
+
+Stairs, 10-12.
+
+Steglitz, 256.
+
+Stendal, 252.
+
+Stoves, 13.
+
+Sunday evenings at Dr. Stueckenberg's, 97.
+
+Sunday observance, 31.
+
+
+Tangermuende, 252.
+
+Taylor, Bayard, 191, 219.
+
+Technological Institute, 53.
+
+Tegel, 209.
+
+Tempelhof, 138.
+
+Tetzel's indulgence box, 124.
+
+Thiergarten, 185.
+  monuments in, 186-188.
+
+Thompson, Rev. J.P., 191.
+
+
+University, 51, 53.
+
+Unter den Linden, 180.
+
+
+Varzin, 251.
+
+Ventilation, 18.
+
+Virchow, 132.
+
+
+Waldersee, General Von, 157.
+
+Waldersee, Countess von, 157.
+
+Wansee, 250.
+
+War Academy, 54, 242.
+
+War Office, park of, 54.
+
+Wartburg, 260.
+
+Weddings, 35.
+
+West End, 188.
+
+Wilhelms Platz, 184.
+
+Windhorst, 129, 131.
+
+Wittenberg, 261.
+
+Women, education of, 75.
+ regard for, 27.
+
+
+Young Men's Christian Association, 241.
+
+
+Zinna, 258.
+
+Zooelogical gardens, 188.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+    | Typographical errors corrected in text:                   |
+    |                                                           |
+    | Page 136: Charlottenberg replaced with Charlottenburg     |
+    | Page 267: Babelsberg replaced with Babelsburg             |
+    |                                                           |
+    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's In and Around Berlin, by Minerva Brace Norton
+
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