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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Poetical Cook-Book
+
+Author: Maria J. Moss
+
+Release Date: May 28, 2008 [EBook #25631]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POETICAL COOK-BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain material produced by
+Microsoft for their Live Search Books site.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+The original text used both symbol and numbered footnote markers. This
+text maintains the distinction. Obvious typographical errors have been
+corrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text along
+with a list of inconsistently spelled words.
+
+
+
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+    We may live without poetry, music, and art;
+    We may live without conscience and live without heart;
+    We may live without friends; we may live without books;
+    But civilized man cannot live without _cooks_.
+    He may live without books--what is knowledge but grieving?
+    He may live without hope--what is hope but deceiving?
+    He may live without love--what is passion but pining?
+    But where is the man who can live without _dining_?
+                    OWEN MEREDITH'S "LUCILE."
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                    A
+           POETICAL COOK-BOOK.
+
+                    BY
+
+    [Illustration: Author's initials]
+
+
+    "I REQUEST you will prepare
+    To your own taste the bill of fare;
+    At present, if to judge I'm able,
+    The finest works are of the table.
+    I should prefer the cook just now
+    To Rubens or to Gerard Dow."
+
+
+              PHILADELPHIA:
+
+                [Colophon]
+
+  CAXTON PRESS OF C. SHERMAN, SON & CO.
+                  1864.
+
+
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864,
+
+BY MARIA J. MOSS,
+
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+
+    "What's under this cover?
+        For cookery's a secret."--MOORE.
+
+When I wrote the following pages, some years back at Oak Lodge, as a
+pastime, I did not think it would be of service to my fellow-creatures,
+for our suffering soldiers, the sick, wounded, and needy, who have so
+nobly fought our country's cause, to maintain the flag of our great
+Republic, and to prove among Nations that a Free Republic is not a myth.
+With these few words I dedicate this book to the SANITARY FAIR to be
+held in Philadelphia, June, 1864.
+
+March, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+    Through tomes of fable and of dream
+    I sought an eligible theme;
+    But none I found, or found them shared
+    Already by some happier bard,
+    Till settling on the current year
+    I found the far-sought treasure near.
+    A theme for poetry, you see--
+    A theme t' ennoble even me,
+    In memorable forty-three.
+
+    Oh, Dick! you may talk of your writing and reading,
+    Your logic and Greek, but there is nothing like feeding.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Upon singing and cookery, Bobby, of course,
+    Standing up for the latter Fine Art in full force.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Are these the _choice dishes_ the Doctor has sent us?
+    Heaven sends us good meats, but the Devil sends cooks.
+    That my life, like the German, may be
+    "Du lit a la table, de la table au lit."--MOORE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE READER.
+
+
+    Though cooks are often men of pregnant wit,
+    Through niceness of their subject few have writ.
+    'Tis a sage question, if the art of cooks
+    Is lodg'd by nature or attain'd by books?
+    That man will never frame a noble treat,
+    Whose whole dependence lies in some _receipt_.
+    Then by pure nature everything is spoil'd,--
+    She knows no more than stew'd, bak'd, roast, and boil'd.
+    When art and nature join, the effect will be,
+    Some nice _ragout_, or _charming fricasee_.
+    What earth and waters breed, or air inspires,
+    Man for his palate fits by torturing fires.
+    But, though my edge be not too nicely set,
+    Yet I another's appetite may whet;
+    May teach him when to buy, when season's pass'd,
+    What's stale, what choice, what plentiful, what waste,
+    And lead him through the various maze of taste.
+    The fundamental principle of all
+    Is what ingenious cooks the _relish_ call;
+    For when the market sends in loads of food,
+    They all are tasteless till _that_ makes them good.
+    Besides, 'tis no ignoble piece of care,
+    To know for whom it is you would prepare.
+    You'd please a friend, or reconcile a brother,
+    A testy father, or a haughty mother;
+    Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire,
+    Or else some smiles from court you would desire;
+    Or would, perhaps, some hasty supper give,
+    To show the splendid state in which you live.
+    Pursuant to that interest you propose,
+    Must all your wines and all your meat be chose.
+    Tables should be like pictures to the sight,
+    Some dishes cast in shade, some spread in light;
+    Some at a distance brighten, some near hand,
+    Where ease may all their delicace command;
+    Some should be moved when broken, others last
+    Through the whole treat, incentive to the taste.
+    Locket, by many labors feeble grown,
+    Up from the kitchen call'd his eldest son;
+    Though wise thyself (says he), though taught by me,
+    Yet fix this sentence in thy memory:
+    There are some certain things that don't excel,
+    And yet we say are tolerably well.
+    There's many worthy men a lawyer prize,
+    Whom they distinguish as of middle size,
+    For pleading well at bar or turning books;
+    But this is not, my son, the fate of cooks,
+    From whose mysterious art true pleasure springs,
+    To stall of garters, and to throne of kings.
+    A simple scene, a disobliging song,
+    Which no way to the main design belong,
+    Or were they absent never would be miss'd,
+    Have made a well-wrought comedy be hiss'd;
+    So in a feast, no intermediate fault
+    Will be allow'd; but if not best, 'tis nought.
+    If you, perhaps, would try some dish unknown,
+    Which more peculiarly you'd make your own,
+    Like ancient sailors, still regard the coast,--
+    By venturing out too far you may be lost.
+    By roasting that which your forefathers boil'd,
+    And broiling what they roasted, much is spoil'd.
+    That cook to American palates is complete,
+    Whose savory hand gives turn to common meat.
+    Far from your parlor have your kitchen placed,
+    Dainties may in their working be disgraced.
+    In private draw your poultry, clean your tripe,
+    And from your eels their slimy substance wipe.
+    Let cruel offices be done by night,
+    For they who like the thing abhor the sight.
+    'Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please;
+    A kitchen will admit of no disease.
+    Were Horace, that great master, now alive,
+    A feast with wit and judgment he'd contrive,
+    As thus: Supposing that you would rehearse
+    A labor'd work, and every dish a verse,
+    He'd say, "Mend this and t'other line and this."
+    If after trial it were still amiss,
+    He'd bid you give it a new turn of face,
+    Or set some dish more curious in its place.
+    If you persist, he would not strive to move
+    A passion so delightful as self-love.
+    Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill,
+    Or in a prudent mixture show their skill.
+    Clog not your constant meals; for dishes few
+    Increase the appetite when choice and new.
+    E'en they who will extravagance profess,
+    Have still an inward hatred for excess.
+    Meat forced too much, untouch'd at table lies;
+    Few care for carving trifles in disguise,
+    Or that fantastic dish some call _surprise_.
+    When pleasures to the eye and palate meet,
+    That cook has render'd his great work complete;
+    His glory far, like _sirloin knighthood_[xi-1] flies
+    Immortal made, as _Kit-cat_ by his pies.
+    Next, let discretion moderate your cost,
+    And when you treat, three courses be the most.
+    Let never fresh machines your pastry try,
+    Unless grandees or magistrates are by,
+    Then you may put _a dwarf into a pie_.[xi-2]
+    Crowd not your table; let your number be
+    Not more than seven, and never less than three.
+    'Tis the _dessert_ that graces all the feast,
+    For an ill end disparages the rest.
+    A thousand things well done, and one forgot,
+    Defaces obligation by that blot.
+    Make your transparent sweetmeats truly nice
+    With Indian sugar and Arabian spice.
+    And let your various creams encircled be
+    With swelling fruit just ravish'd from the tree.
+    The feast now done, discourses are renewed,
+    And witty arguments with mirth pursued;
+    The cheerful master, 'midst his jovial friends,
+    His glass to their best wishes recommends.
+    The grace cup follows: To the President's health
+    And to the country; Plenty, Peace, and Wealth!
+    Performing, then, the piety of grace,
+    Each man that pleases reassumes his place;
+    While at his gate, from such abundant store,
+    He showers his godlike blessings on the poor.
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[xi-1] Charles I, dining one day off of a loin of beef, was so much
+pleased with it, knighted it.
+
+[xi-2] In the reign of Charles I, Jeffry Hudson (then seven or eight
+years old, and but eighteen inches in height) was served up to table in
+a cold pie at the Duke of Buckingham's, and as soon as he made his
+appearance was presented to the Queen.
+
+
+
+
+"Despise not my good counsel."
+
+MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS
+
+FOR THE USE OF THE
+
+MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
+
+
+The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and
+good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior, and,
+consequently, that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste
+may be avoided.
+
+Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct and
+propriety of female arrangement, as to the knowledge and activity of the
+father.
+
+All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness,--sugars of
+different qualities should be broken; currants washed, picked and dry in
+a jar; spice pounded, &c. Every article should be kept in that place
+best suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided. Vegetables
+will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded. Dried meats,
+hams, &c., the same. All sorts of seeds for puddings, rice, &c., should
+be close-covered, to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in a
+cool, perfectly dry room, and the bag being tied should be changed
+upside down and back every week, and well shaken. Carrots, parsnips, and
+beet-roots should be kept in sand for winter use, and neither they nor
+potatoes be cleared from the earth. Store onions preserve best hung up
+in a dry room. Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a
+musty taste. Tarragon gives the flavor of French cookery, and in high
+gravies should be added only a short time before serving.
+
+Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when
+herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent.
+
+Celery seeds give the flavor of the plant to soups. Parsley should be
+cut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very cool oven; it
+preserves its flavor and color, and is very useful in winter. Artichoke
+bottoms, which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper bags, and
+truffles, lemon-peel, &c., in a very dry place, ticketed.
+
+Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air: where the former
+are much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock-jar, to
+prevent frequent opening.
+
+Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared first, to
+preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and, when squeezed, the
+pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating.
+
+If for boiling any liquid, the first way is best. When whites of eggs
+are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to have pudding,
+custards, &c., to employ the yolks also.
+
+Gravies or soups put by, should be daily changed into fresh scalded
+pans.
+
+If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c., be suffered to boil over,
+the strength is lost.
+
+The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for the
+collared things, &c., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give
+an unpleasant flavor when next used.
+
+Hard water spoils the color of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash or salt
+of wormwood will prevent that effect.
+
+When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton come in, part of the suet
+may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will baste
+everything as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchen
+pies nothing else should be used.
+
+Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in cold
+water two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced;
+when put into hot water, or to the fire until thawed, no heat will
+dress them properly.
+
+Meat should be well examined when it comes in, in warm weather. In the
+height of the summer it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be
+salted lie an hour in cold water; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have
+ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handful
+over it besides. Turn it every day and rub the pickle in, which will
+make it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired to
+be very much corned, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, having rubbed it
+previously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit for
+table the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when the
+water boils.
+
+If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or three
+days before it be salted.
+
+The water in which meat has been boiled makes an excellent soup for the
+poor, when vegetables, oatmeal, or peas are added, and should not be
+cleared from the fat. Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine
+peas soup, and should be boiled with the peas the day before eaten, that
+the fat may be removed. The mistress of the house will find many great
+advantages in visiting her larder daily before she orders the bill of
+fare; she will see what things require dressing, and thereby guard
+against their being spoiled. Many articles may be redressed in a
+different form from that in which they are first served, an improve the
+appearance of the table without increasing the expense.
+
+In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cutting
+out most advantageously, and affording most nourishment.
+
+Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price;
+but having more solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice,
+however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed as
+palatably, and being cheaper ought to be bought in turn; and when
+weighed with the prime pieces, the price of the latter is reduced.
+
+In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be taken
+out, being apt to taint, as likewise the kernels of beef.
+
+Rumps and aitch bones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers
+give, and that part always taints: avoid purchasing such.
+
+The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and after soaking and
+bruising may be added to give richness to gravies and soups, and they
+are particularly nourishing for the sick.
+
+Calves' tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed with
+the brains, which may be served without.
+
+Some people like neats' tongues cured with the root, in which case they
+look much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must be
+cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking away
+the fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, and
+extremely well cleaned before it be dressed; and the tongue laid in salt
+for a night and day before pickled.
+
+Great attention is requisite in salting meat, and in the country, where
+great quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef and
+pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain,
+before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansing
+the meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong; it should
+be turned daily, and, if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub may be used,
+and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt will
+find it well to boil up the pickle, skim, and when cold pour it over
+meat that has been sprinkled and drained. In some families great loss is
+sustained by the spoiling of meat. If meat is brought from a distance in
+warm weather, the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bring
+it early in the morning.
+
+Mutton will keep long, by washing with vinegar the broad end of the leg;
+if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with salt lightly,
+it will not eat the worse. Game is brought in when not likely to keep a
+day, in the cook's apprehension, yet may be preserved two or three days
+if wanted, by the following method:
+
+If birds (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn), draw
+them, pick and take out the crop, wash them in two or three waters, and
+rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling
+water, put the birds in it, and let them remain five minutes, moving it,
+that it may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by the
+heads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks; when
+to be roasted, wash, to take off the pepper. The most delicate birds,
+even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid.
+
+Birds that live by suction, &c., bear being high: it is probable that
+the heat might cause them to taint more, as a free passage for the
+scalding water could not be obtained.
+
+Fresh-water fish has often a muddy taste, to take off which, soak it in
+strong salt and water; or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald in
+the same, after extremely good cleaning and washing.
+
+In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities
+may be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to the
+discretion of the persons who use them.
+
+The different taste of people requires more or less of the flavor of
+spices, garlic, butter, &c., which can never be directed by general
+rules, and if the cook has not a good taste, and attention to that of
+her employers, not all the ingredients with which nature or art can
+furnish her will give an exquisite relish to her dishes.
+
+The proper articles should be at hand, and she must proportion them
+until the true zest be obtained.
+
+March, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Poetical Cook-Book.
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+TURTLE SOUP.
+
+    Sons of Apicius! say, can Europe's seas,
+    Can aught the edible creation yield
+    Compare with _turtle_, boast of land and wave?
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+                        And, zounds! who would grudge
+    _Turtle soup_, though it came to five guineas the bowl?
+                    MOORE.
+
+The day before you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make the
+forcemeat; then, on the preceding evening, suspend the turtle by the two
+hind fins with a cord, and put one round the neck with a heavy weight
+attached to it to draw out the neck, that the head may be cut off with
+more ease; let the turtle hang all night, in which time the blood will
+be well drained from the body. Then, early in the morning, having your
+stoves and plenty of hot water in readiness, take the turtle, lay it on
+the table on its back, and with a strong pointed knife cut round the
+under shell (which is the callipee),--there are joints at each end,
+which must be carefully found,--gently separating it from the callipash
+(which is the upper shell); be careful that in cutting out the gut you
+do not break the gall. When the callipee and the callipash are perfectly
+separated, take out that part of the gut that leads from the throat;
+that with the hearts put into a basin of water by themselves, the other
+interior part put away. Take the callipee, and cut off the meat which
+adheres to it in four quarters, laying it on a clean dish. Take twenty
+pounds of veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as directed for
+espagnoles, putting in the flesh of the turtle at the same time, with
+all kinds of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and a half of lean
+ham, peppercorns, salt, and a little spice, and two bay leaves, leaving
+it to stew till it take the color of espagnole; put the fins--the skin
+scalded off--and hearts in, half an hour before you fill it, with half
+water, and half beef stock, then carefully skim it; put in a bunch of
+parsley, and let it boil gently like consommé. While the turtle is
+stewing, carefully scald the head, the callipee, and all that is soft of
+the callipash, attentively observing to take off the smallest skin that
+may remain; put them with the gut into a large pot of water to boil till
+tender; when so, take them out and cut them in squares, putting them in
+a basin by themselves till wanted for the soup. The next thing is the
+thickening of the soup, which must be prepared in the same manner as
+sauce tournée. The turtle being well done, take out the fins and hearts,
+and lay them on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass through a
+sieve into a large pan; then with a ladle take off all the fat, put it
+into a basin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small quantity at a
+time), with the thickening made the same as tournée; but it does not
+require to, neither must it, be one-twentieth part as thick. Set it over
+a brisk fire, and continue stirring till it boils. When it has boiled
+gently for one hour put in the callipee and callipash with the guts,
+hearts, and some of the best of the meat and head, all cut in squares,
+with the forcemeat balls and herbs, which you should have ready chopped
+and stewed in espagnole; the herbs and parsley, lemon, thyme, marjoram,
+basil, savory, and a few chopped mushrooms.
+
+It must be carefully attended to and skimmed, and one hour and a half
+before dinner put in a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a bottle
+of brandy, keeping it continually boiling gently, and skimming it, then
+take a basin, put a little cayenne into it, with the juice of six lemons
+squeezed through a sieve. When the dinner is wanted, skim the turtle,
+stir it well up, and put a little salt, if necessary; then stir the
+cayenne and lemon juice in, and ladle it into the tureen. This receipt
+will answer for a turtle between fifty and sixty pounds.
+
+
+CHICKEN BROTH.
+
+    The _chicken broth_ was brought at nine;
+    He then arose to ham and wine,
+    And, with a philosophic air,
+    Decided on the bill of fare.
+
+Take the remaining parts of a chicken from which panada has been made,
+all but the rump; skin, and put them into the water it was first boiled
+in, with the addition of a little mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns,
+and simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to it a quarter of an ounce of
+sweet almond beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it a little while,
+and when cold take off the fat.
+
+
+
+
+FISH.
+
+
+TO STEW FISH WHITE.
+
+    His soup scientific,--his _fishes_ quite prime;
+    His patés superb, and his cutlets sublime.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Let your fish be cleaned and salted; save your melts or kows. Cut three
+onions and parsley root, boil them in a pint of water; cut your fish in
+pieces to suit; take some clever sized pieces, cut them from the bone,
+chop them fine, mix with them the melts, crumbs of bread, a little
+ginger, one egg well beaten, leeks, green parsley, all made fine; take
+some bread, and make them in small balls; lay your fish in your stewpan,
+layer of fish and layer of onions; sprinkle with ginger, pour cold water
+over to cover your fish; let it boil till done, then lay your fish
+nicely on a dish. To make the sauce, take the juice of a large lemon and
+yolk of an egg, well beaten together, teaspoonful of flour; mix it
+gradually with half a pint of the water the fish was done in, then with
+all your water put in your balls; let it boil very quick; when done
+throw the balls and gravy over your fish.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO STEW FISH.
+
+    Behold, the dishes due appear!
+    _Fish_ in the van, beef in the rear.
+    Ah! all the luxury of fish,
+    With scalding sauce.
+
+Boil six onions in water till tender, strain, and cut them in slices.
+Put your fish, cut in slices, in a stewpan with a quart of water, salt,
+pepper, ginger and mace to suit taste; let it boil fifteen minutes; add
+the onions, and forcemeat balls made of chopped fish, grated bread,
+chopped onion, parsley, marjoram, mace, pepper, ginger and salt, and
+five eggs beat up with a spoon into balls, and drop them into the pan of
+fish when boiling; cover close for ten minutes, take it off the fire,
+and then add six eggs with the juice of five lemons; stir the gravy very
+slowly, add chopped parsley, and let it all simmer on a slow fire,
+keeping the pan in motion until it just boils, when it must be taken off
+quickly, or the sauce will break. A little butter or sweet oil added to
+the balls is an improvement. If you meet with good success in the
+cooking of this receipt, you will often have stewed fish.
+
+
+PERCH WITH WINE.
+
+    Here haddock, hake, and flounders are,
+    And eels, and _perch_, and cod.
+                    GREEN.
+
+Having scalded and taken out the gills, put the perch into a stew-pan,
+with equal quantities of stock and white wine, a bay leaf, a clove of
+garlic, a bunch of parsley, and scallions, two cloves, and some salt.
+
+When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs of which
+mix with some butter and a little flour; beat these up, set them on the
+fire, stewing till quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ball
+of anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish them with the above
+sauce.
+
+
+TO STEW FISH BROWN.
+
+                       Here stay thy haste,
+    And with the _savory fish_ indulge thy taste.
+                    GAY.
+
+Have your fish cleaned, the melts or kows being taken out whole; salt
+your fish, and let it lay half an hour. Cut your onions in slices, fry
+them with parsley-root, cut in long thin slices, in half a teacup of
+sweet oil, till they become a fine brown. Wash and dry your fish, cut it
+in pieces, put it in your stewpan, layer of fish and layer of browned
+onion, &c. Take a quart of beer, half a pint of vinegar, quarter pound
+of sugar, two tablespoonfuls powdered ginger, mixed well together, pour
+over your fish till covered. When putting your fish in the pan, split
+the head in two, and place it at the bottom, the smaller pieces on the
+top, the rows uppermost; let them cook very quick. Take out your fish,
+lay it nicely on a dish, mix a little flour in your gravy, give it a
+boil, throw it over the fish, and let it stand to cool.
+
+
+ROASTED STURGEON.
+
+    Your betters will despise you, if they see
+    Things that are far surpassing your degree;
+    Therefore beyond your substance never treat;
+    'Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat;
+    A widow has cold pie, nurse gives you cake,
+    From generous merchants ham or _sturgeon_ take.
+                    KING.
+
+Take a large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small one, clean and skin it
+properly, lard it with eel and anchovies, and marinade it in a white
+wine marmalade. Fasten it to the spit and roast it, basting frequently
+with the marinade strained. Let the fish be a nice color, and serve with
+a pepper sauce.
+
+
+BOILED SALMON.
+
+    Red speckled trouts, the _salmon's_ silver jole,
+    The jointed lobster and unscaly sole,
+    And luscious scallops to allure the tastes
+    Of rigid zealots to delicious feasts;
+    Wednesdays and Fridays, you'll observe from hence,
+    Days when our sins were doomed to abstinence.
+                    GAY.
+
+Put on a fish-kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmon
+you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well
+(boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils put in a
+handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish
+well washed, put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently.
+Salmon requires as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of an hour to a
+pound of meat; but practice can only perfect the cook in dressing
+salmon.
+
+A quarter of a salmon will take as long boiling as half a one. You must
+consider the thickness, not the weight.
+
+_Obs._ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest, and if you have a
+"grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin.
+
+Lobster sauce and rye bread should be eaten with boiled salmon.
+
+
+BOILED LOBSTER.
+
+    But soon, like _lobster boil'd_, the morn
+    From black to red began to turn.
+                    BUTLER.
+
+Those of the middle size are best. The male lobster is preferred to eat,
+and the female to make sauce of. Set on a pot with water, salted in
+proportion of a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water. When the
+water boils, put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to
+an hour, according to its size; wipe all the scum off it, and rub the
+shell with a little butter or sweet oil, break off the great claws,
+crack them carefully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered,
+and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and send
+the body whole.
+
+
+OYSTERS.
+
+    The man had sure a palate cover'd o'er
+    With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore
+    First broke the oozy _oyster's_ pearly coat,
+    And risk'd the living morsel down his throat.
+                    GAY.
+
+Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters, and
+the time of eating them, after they are opened. Nothing, however, is
+more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater.
+Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost
+perfection must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in
+the under shell. If not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and
+spirit are lost.
+
+
+FRIED OYSTERS.
+
+    You shapeless nothing, in a dish!
+    You, that are but almost a fish!
+                    COWPER.
+
+The largest and finest oysters should be chosen for frying. Simmer them
+in their own liquor for a couple of minutes; take them out, and lay them
+on a cloth to drain; beard them, and then flour them, egg and breadcrumb
+them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown.
+
+A much better way is to beat the yolks of eggs, and mix with the grated
+bread, a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace, and a little salt.
+Having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them
+in lard, till they are a light brown color. Take care not to do them too
+much. Serve them up hot. For grated bread, some substitute crackers
+pounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice.
+
+
+STEWED OYSTERS.
+
+    By nerves about our palate placed,
+    She likewise judges of the taste.
+    Who would ask for her opinion
+    Between an _oyster_ and an onion?
+                    DONNE.
+
+Stew with a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, a glass of
+white wine, one anchovy bruised, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a
+little mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let all stew gently an hour, or
+three quarters. Pick out the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter pound of
+fresh butter kneaded in a large tablespoonful of flour, and stew them
+ten or twelve minutes.
+
+Serve them garnished with bread sippets and cut lemon. They may be
+stewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper, and
+grated nutmeg, and thickened with cream, flour, and butter.
+
+
+OYSTER LOAVES.
+
+    _'Tis no one thing_; it is not fruit, nor root,
+    Nor poorly limited with head or foot.
+                    DONNE.
+
+Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, take out the crumb, fry
+them brown and crisp with clarified butter, then fry some breadcrumbs;
+stew the requisite quantity of oysters, bearded and cut in two, in their
+liquor, with a little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned with grated
+lemon-peel, powdered mace, pepper and salt; add a bit of butter, fill
+the rolls with oysters, and serve them with the fried breadcrumbs in a
+dish.
+
+
+SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
+
+    What will not luxury taste? Earth, sea, and air,
+    Are daily ransack'd for the bills of fare.
+                    GAY.
+
+Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes,
+take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit
+of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, add as much fine
+breadcrumbs as will dry it up; then put to it the oyster liquor, and
+give it a boil up; put the oysters into scallop shells that you have
+buttered, and strewed with breadcrumbs, then a layer of oysters, then
+breadcrumbs, and then again oysters; moisten it with the oyster liquor,
+cover them with breadcrumbs, put about half a dozen little bits of
+butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven.
+
+Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and other
+spices are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavor of
+the oyster.
+
+
+
+
+MEATS.
+
+
+VENISON.
+
+    Thanks, my lord, for your _venison_; for finer or fatter
+    Never ranged in a forest or smoked in a platter.
+    The haunch was a picture for painters to study,
+    The fat was so white, and the lean was so ruddy.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+The haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quarters
+roasting. Put a coarse paste of brown flour and water, and a paper over
+that, to cover all the fat; baste it well with dripping, and keep it at
+a distance, to get hot at the bones by degrees. When near done, remove
+the covering, and baste it with butter, and froth it up before you
+serve. Gravy for it should be put in a boat, and not in the dish (unless
+there be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from two
+or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a
+gridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side; put them in a
+saucepan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour, and
+gently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to a
+pint. Season only with salt.
+
+
+VENISON PASTY.
+
+    And now that I think on't, as I am a sinner!
+    We wanted this venison to make out the dinner.
+    What say you? a _pasty_! it shall and it must,
+    And my wife, little Kitty, is famous for crust.
+    "What the de'il, mon, a pasty!" re-echoed the Scot.
+    "Though splitting, I'll still keep a corner for that."
+    "We'll all keep a corner," the lady cried out;
+    "We will all keep a corner!" was echoed about.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Cut a neck or breast into small steaks, rub them over with a seasoning
+of sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; fry them slightly in
+butter. Line the sides and edges of a dish with puff paste, lay in the
+steaks, and add half a pint of rich gravy, made with the trimmings of
+the venison; add a glass of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon or
+teaspoonful of vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and bake it
+nearly two hours; some more gravy may be poured into the pie before
+serving it.
+
+
+ROAST BEEF.
+
+    And aye a rowth, a _roast beef_ and claret:
+          Syne wha wad starve!
+                    BURNS.
+
+The noble sirloin of about fifteen pounds will require to be before the
+fire about three and a half to four hours; take care to spit it evenly,
+that it may not be heavier on one side than on the other; put a little
+clean dripping into the dripping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over to
+preserve the fat); baste it well as soon as it is put down, and every
+quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour;
+then take off the paper and make some gravy for it. Stir the fire, and
+make it clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it,
+baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes
+longer till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, and serve
+it.
+
+
+BEEF À LA BRAISE.
+
+    In short, dear, "a Dandy" describes what I mean,
+    And Bob's far the best of the gems I have seen,
+    But just knows the names of French dishes and cooks,
+    As dear Pa knows the titles and authors of books;
+    Whose names, think how quick! he already knows pat,
+    _A la braise_, petit patés, and--what d'ye call that
+    They inflict on potatoes? Oh! maître d'hotel.
+    I assure you, dear Dolly, he knows them as well
+    As if nothing but these all his life he had eat,
+    Though a bit of them Bobby has never touched yet.
+    I can scarce tell the difference, at least as to phrase,
+    Between _beef à la Psyché_ and _curls à la braise_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Bone a rump of beef, lard it very thickly with salt pork seasoned with
+pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice, and season the beef with
+pepper and salt; put some slices of bacon into the bottom of the pan,
+with some whole black pepper, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves,
+two onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put in the
+beef, and lay over it some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak stock,
+and half a pint of white wine. Cover it closely, and let it stew between
+six and seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of part of the liquor it
+has been stewed in, strained, and thickened with a little flour and
+butter, adding some green onions cut small, and pickled mushrooms. Pour
+it over the beef.
+
+
+BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES.
+
+                The funeral _bak'd meats_
+    Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in a mortar with two small
+onions; moisten them with milk and an egg beaten up, add a little salt
+and pepper. Season slices of beef or mutton-chops with salt and pepper,
+and more onion, if the flavor is approved. Rub the bottom of a
+pudding-dish with butter, and put a layer of the mashed potatoes, which
+should be as thick as a batter, and then a layer of meat, and so on
+alternately till the dish is filled, ending with potatoes. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour.
+
+
+BEEF RAGOUT.
+
+    Is there, then, that o'er his _French ragout_,
+    Looks down wi' sneering, scornful view,
+                              On sic a dinner?
+                    BURNS.
+
+Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it, pour
+over it a little boiling water, about a pint of small-beer, add a carrot
+or two, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a piece of
+lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew an hour, then add some
+good gravy; when the meat is tender take it out and strain the sauce;
+thicken it with a little flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a
+little ketchup, put in the meat; just simmer it up.
+
+
+BEEF KIDNEYS.
+
+    Or one's _kidney_,--imagine, Dick,--done with champagne.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cut
+it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine; dust it with flour. Put some
+butter into a stewpan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put in
+the minced kidneys. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle on
+a little salt and cayenne, and pour in a very little boiling water. Add
+a glass of champagne, or other wine, or a large teaspoonful of mushroom
+ketchup or walnut pickle; cover the pan closely, and let it stew till
+the kidney is tender. Send it to table hot, in a covered dish. It is
+eaten generally at breakfast.
+
+
+BROILED BEEFSTEAKS.
+
+    _Time was_, when John Bull little difference spied
+    'Twixt the foe at his feet or the friend at his side;
+    When he found, such his humor in fighting and eating,
+    His foe, like _beefsteak_, the sweeter for beating.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well,
+    It were done quickly.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Cut the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore quarter. Have the
+gridiron perfectly clean, and heated over a clear quick fire, lay on the
+steaks, and with meat-tongs, keep turning them constantly, till they are
+done enough; throw a little salt over them before taking them off the
+fire. Serve as hot as possible, plain or with a made gravy and sliced
+onions, or rub a bit of butter on the steaks the moment of serving.
+Mutton-chops are broiled in the same manner.
+
+
+SCOTCH HAGGIS.
+
+    Fair fa' your honest sonsie face,
+    Great chieftain o' the puddin' race;
+    Aboon them a' ye tak your place,
+              Painch, tripe, or thairm,
+    Weel are ye wordy of a grace
+              As langs my arm.
+    His knife see rustic labor dight,
+    An' cut you up with ready slight,
+    Trenching your gushing entrail bright
+              Like onie ditch,
+    And then, O! what a glorious sight,
+              Warm reekin' rich.
+    Ye powers wha mak mankind your care,
+    And dish them out their bill of fare,
+    Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware
+              That jaups in luggies,
+    But if ye wish her grateful pray'r,
+              Gie her a _Haggis_.
+                    BURNS.
+
+Make the haggis bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liver
+very well, so as it will grate, dry the meal before the fire, mince the
+draught and a pretty large piece of beef, very small; grate about half
+the liver, mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these
+materials very well together with a handful or two of the dried meal;
+spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed
+spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and
+some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin
+(_i. e._ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into
+the bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; put out all the wind
+before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put
+it in a cloth.
+
+If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling.
+
+N. B. The above is a receipt from Mrs. MacIver, a celebrated Caledonian
+professor of the culinary art, who taught and published a book of
+cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787.
+
+
+SALT BEEF.
+
+    The British fleet, which now commands the main,
+    Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain,
+    Would they take time, would they with leisure work,
+    With care would _salt their beef_, and cure their pork.
+    There is no dish, but what _our_ cooks have made
+    And merited a charter by their trade.
+                    KING.
+
+Make a pickle of rock salt and cold water strong enough to bear an egg,
+let a little salt remain in the bottom of the tub; two quarts of
+molasses and a quarter pound of saltpetre is sufficient for a cwt. of
+beef. It is fit for use in ten days. Boil the beef slowly until the
+bones come out easily, then wrap it in a towel, and put a heavy weight
+on it till cold.
+
+
+TO PICKLE TONGUES FOR BOILING.
+
+              Silence is commendable only
+    In a _neat's tongue_ dried.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle some
+salt, and let it drain till next day; then for each tongue, mix a large
+spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half as
+much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every day. In a week add
+another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, a tongue will be
+ready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle daily, it will
+keep four or five weeks without being too salt. Smoke them or plainly
+dry them, if you like best. When to be dressed, boil it extremely
+tender; allow five hours, and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The
+longer kept after drying, the higher it will be; if hard, it may require
+soaking three or four hours.
+
+
+ROASTED CALF'S LIVER.
+
+    Pray a slice of your _liver_.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Wash and wipe it, then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs
+of bread, chopped, an anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt,
+pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; sew the liver up, lard it, wrap it
+in a veal caul, and roast it. Serve with good brown gravy and currant
+jelly.
+
+
+SCOTCH COLLOPS.
+
+          A cook has mighty things professed;
+    Then send us but two dishes nicely dressed,--
+    One called _Scotch Collops_.
+                    KING.
+
+Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over and rather round, beat
+with a rolling-pin; grate a little nutmeg over them; dip in the yolk of
+an egg, and fry them in a little butter of a fine brown; have ready,
+warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a little bit of butter
+rubbed into a little flour, to which put the yolk of an egg, two large
+spoonfuls of cream, and a little salt.
+
+Do not boil the sauce, but stir until of a fine thickness to serve with
+the collops.
+
+
+STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+                      In truth, I'm confounded
+    And bothered, my dear, 'twixt that troublesome boy's
+    (Bob's) cookery language, and Madame Le Roi's.
+    What with fillets of roses and _fillets of veal_,
+    Things garni with lace, and things garni with eel,
+    One's hair and one's cutlets both en papillote,
+    And a thousand more things I shall ne'er have by rote.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast and then stew it with
+two quarts of white stock, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and one of
+mushroom ketchup. Before serving strain the gravy, thicken it with
+butter rolled in flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some pickled
+mushrooms; heat it and pour it over the veal. Have ready two or three
+dozen forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cut
+lemon.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD SURPRISED.
+
+    And the dish set before them,--O dish well devised!--
+    Was what Old Mother Glasse calls "_a calf's head surprised_."
+                    MOORE.
+
+Clean and blanch a calf's head, boil it till the bones will come out
+easily, then bone and press it between two dishes, so as to give it a
+headlong form; beat it with the yolks of four eggs, a little melted
+butter, pepper and salt. Divide the head when cold, and brush it all
+over with the beaten eggs, and strew over it grated bread, which is put
+over one half; a good quantity of finely minced parsley should be mixed;
+place the head upon a dish, and bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it
+with a sauce of parsley and butter, and with one of good gravy, mixed
+with the brains, which have been previously boiled, chopped, and
+seasoned with a little cayenne and salt.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD ROASTED.
+
+    Good L--d! to see the various ways
+    Of dressing a calf's head.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+Wash and clean it well, parboil it, take out the bones, brains, and
+tongue; make forcemeat sufficient for the head, and some balls with
+breadcrumbs, minced suet, parsley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal
+or cold fowl; season with salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it
+with an egg beaten up; fill the head with it, which must then be sewed
+up, or fastened with skewers and tied; while roasting baste it well with
+butter; beat up the brains with a little cream, the yolk of an egg, some
+minced parsley, a little pepper and salt; blanch the tongue and cut it
+into slices, and fry it with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin
+slices of bacon.
+
+Serve the head with white or brown thickened gravy, and place the tongue
+and forcemeat balls round it. Garnish with cut lemon. It will require
+one hour and a half to roast.
+
+
+SALMIS OF WILD DUCK.
+
+    Long as, by bayonets protected, we Watties
+    May have our full fling at their _salmis_ and patés.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Cut off the best parts of a couple of roasted wild ducks, and put the
+rest of the meat into a mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley,
+some pepper, and a bay leaf; pound all these ingredients well, and then
+put into a saucepan, with four ladlesful of stock, half a glass of white
+wine, the same of broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce these to
+half, strain them, and having laid the pieces on a dish, cover them with
+the above; keep the whole hot, not boiling, until wanted for table.
+
+
+STEWED DUCK AND PEAS.
+
+    I give thee all my kitchen lore,
+      Though poor the offering be;
+    I'll tell thee how 'tis cooked, before
+      You come to dine with me.
+    The duck is truss'd from head to heels,
+      Then stew'd with butter well,
+    And streaky bacon, which reveals
+      A most delicious smell.
+
+    When duck and bacon, in a mass,
+      You in a stewpan lay,
+    A spoon around the vessel pass,
+      And gently stir away;
+    A tablespoonful of flour bring,
+      A quart of water plain,
+    Then in it twenty onions fling,
+      And gently stir again.
+
+    A bunch of parsley, and a leaf
+      Of ever verdant bay,
+    Two cloves,--I make my language brief,--
+      Then add your peas you may;
+    And let it simmer till it sings
+      In a delicious strain;
+    Then take your duck, nor let the strings
+      For trussing it remain.
+
+    The parsley fail not to remove,
+      Also the leaf of bay;
+    Dish up your duck,--the sauce improve
+      In the accustom'd way,
+    With pepper, salt, and other things
+      I need not here explain;
+    And if the dish contentment brings,
+      You'll dine with me again.
+
+
+FOWL À LA HOLLANDAISE.
+
+    Our courtier walks from dish to dish,
+    Tastes from his friends of _fowl_ and fish,
+    Tells all their names, lays down the law,
+    "Que ça est bon." "Ah! goutez ça."
+                    POPE.
+
+Make a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity of minced suet, an
+onion, or a few oysters and some boiled parsley, season with pepper,
+salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg beaten up to bind it. Bone the
+breast of a good sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, cover the fowl
+with a piece of white paper buttered, and roast it half an hour; make a
+thick batter of flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and pour some
+of the batter over the fowl; as soon as it becomes dry, add more, and do
+this till it is all crusted over and a nice brown color, serve it with
+melted butter and lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy.
+
+
+BOILED TURKEY.
+
+    But man, cursed man, on _turkeys_ preys,
+    And Christmas shortens all our days.
+    Sometimes with oysters we combine,
+    Sometimes assist the savory chine.
+    From the low peasant to the lord,
+    The _turkey_ smokes on every board.
+                    GAY.
+
+Make a stuffing of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, a few
+oysters, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg; put this into the crop,
+fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make it
+very white. Have ready some oyster sauce made rich with butter, a little
+cream, and a spoonful of soy, and serve over the turkey.
+
+
+DEVILLED TURKEY.
+
+    And something's here with name uncivil,
+    For our cook christens it "_A Devil_,"
+    "_A Devil_, in any shape, sweet maid,
+    A parson fears not," Syntax said;
+    "I'll make him minced meat; 'tis my trade."
+
+Take cold roast turkey legs, score them well, season them with salt and
+plenty of cayenne pepper and mustard, then broil them. Serve them
+_hot_.
+
+
+CAPON.
+
+    In good roast beef my landlord sticks his knife,
+    The _capon_ fat delights his dainty wife.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take a quart of white wine, season the capon with salt, cloves, and
+whole pepper, a few shallots, and then put the capon in an earthen pan;
+you must take care it has not room to shake; it must be covered close,
+and done over a slow charcoal fire.
+
+
+CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
+
+    Gargilius, sleek, voluptuous lord,
+    A hundred dainties smoke upon his board;
+    Earth, air, and ocean ransack'd for the feast,
+    In masquerade of foreign olios dress'd.
+                    WARTON.
+
+Reduce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tournée, and add to the yolks
+of four eggs; put to this the white meat of a chicken, minced very
+small, and well mixed with the sauce; take it out, and roll it into
+balls, about the size of a walnut; roll them in breadcrumbs, giving them
+an elongated form; then beat them in some well-beaten egg; bread them
+again, and fry them of a light brown.
+
+
+LEG OF MUTTON.
+
+    But hang it, to poets, who seldom can eat,
+    Your very good _mutton's_ a very good treat.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm water
+for ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let it
+simmer very gently, and skim it carefully; a leg of nine pounds will
+take two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done,
+especially in very cold weather.
+
+The liquor the mutton is boiled in, you may convert into good soup in
+five minutes, and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a leg of mutton is
+a most economical joint.
+
+
+TO CURE HAMS.
+
+    Or urged thereunto by the woes he endured,
+    The way to be _smoked_, is the way to be _cured_.
+                    ANONYMOUS.
+
+    But to the fading palate bring relief,
+    By the _Westphalian ham_ or Belgic beef.
+                    KING.
+
+When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix an ounce of
+saltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt,
+ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together,
+and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the pickle
+for three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento in finest
+powder, added to the above, will give still more flavor. Cover with bran
+when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; the
+latter will make it harder, and more of the flavor of Westphalia. Sew
+hams in hessings, _i. e._ coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is
+a strong fire.
+
+
+HAM PIES.
+
+    Each mortal has his pleasure; none deny
+    Scarsdale his bottle, Darby his _ham pie_.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Take two pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling sized pieces,
+season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or
+dressed ham, cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some
+forced or sausage meat at the top, with some stewed mushrooms, and the
+yolks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as
+with rumpsteak pie.
+
+N. B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops,
+and the chine bone taken away.
+
+
+ROASTED HARE.
+
+    Turkey and fowl, and ham and chine,
+    On which the cits prefer to dine,
+    With partridge, too, and eke a _Hare_,
+    The luxuries of country fare,
+    She nicely cooked with bounteous care.
+
+Cut the skin from a hare that has been well soaked, put it on the spit,
+and rub it well with Madeira, pricking it in various places that it may
+imbibe plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a paste, and roast it.
+When done, take away the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, sprinkle
+breadcrumbs, and baste it gently with butter (still keeping it turning
+before the fire), until a crust is formed over it, and it is of a nice
+brown color; dish it over some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled in it;
+two or three cloves may be stuck into the knuckles, if you think proper.
+
+
+FRICASEED RABBITS.
+
+    Your _rabbits fricaseed_ and chicken,
+    With curious choice of dainty picking,
+    Each night got ready at the Crown,
+    With port and punch to wash 'em down.
+                    LLOYD.
+
+Take two fine white rabbits, and cut them in pieces; blanch them in
+boiling water, and skim them for one minute; stir a few trimmings of
+mushrooms in a stewpan over the fire, with a bit of butter, till it
+begins to fry, then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the flour, a
+little at a time, nearly a quart of good consommé, which set on the
+fire, and when it boils put the rabbits in, and let them boil gently
+till done; then put them in another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till
+nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half a pint of good boiling
+cream, and when it becomes the thickness of bechamelle sauce in general,
+squeeze it through the tammy to the rabbits; make it very hot, put in a
+few mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, a little cream, and then serve it to
+table.
+
+
+
+
+BIRDS.
+
+
+TO ROAST PHEASANTS.
+
+    Little birds fly about with the _true pheasant taint_,
+    And the geese are all born with the liver[56-*] complaint.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the head part, mix them with salt
+and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the other
+ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and cover
+the birds with them, then wrap them in sheets of paper well buttered,
+put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear fire.
+
+
+TO ROAST ORTOLANS.
+
+    With all the luxury of statesmen dine,
+    On daily feasts of _ortolans_ and wine.
+                    CAWTHORN.
+
+Put into every bird an oyster, or a little butter mixed with some
+finely sifted breadcrumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewer
+through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or fresh
+butter. They will be done in ten minutes. Reed birds are very fine made
+into little dumplings with a thin crust of flour and butter, and boiled
+about twenty minutes. Each must be tied in a separate cloth.
+
+
+WOODCOCKS.
+
+    And as for your juries--who would not set o'er them
+    A jury of tasters, with _woodcocks_ before them?
+                    MOORE.
+
+Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of "haut
+gout" considered a "bonne bouche." Truss their legs close to the body,
+and run an iron skewer through each thigh, and put them to roast before
+the fire; toast a slice of bread for each bird, lay them in the
+dripping-pan under the bird to catch the trail; baste them with butter,
+and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on
+the toast; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and send some up in
+a boat. Twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Some epicures like
+this bird very much underdone, and direct that the woodcock should be
+just introduced to the cook, for her to show it to the fire, then send
+it to table.
+
+
+BIRDS POTTED.
+
+     "It tastes of the _bird_, however," said the old woman, "and she
+     cooked the _rail of the fence_ on which the crow had been sitting."
+
+When birds have come a great way, they often smell so bad that they can
+scarcely be borne from the rankness of the butter, by managing them in
+the following manner, they may be as good as ever. Set a large saucepan
+of clean water on the fire, when it boils take off the butter at the
+top, then take the fowls out one by one, throw them in the saucepan of
+water half a minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth inside and out,
+continue till they are all done; scald the pot clean, when the birds are
+quite cold, season them with mace, pepper, and salt according to taste,
+put them down close in a pot, and pour clarified butter over them.
+
+
+LARKS.
+
+    What say you, lads? is any spark
+    Among you ready for a _lark_?
+                    MOORE.
+
+These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When they
+are thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed, truss them; do them over
+with the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in breadcrumbs; spit them
+on a lark spit; ten or fifteen minutes will be sufficient time to roast
+them in, before a quick fire; whilst they are roasting, baste them with
+fresh butter, and sprinkle them with breadcrumbs till they are well
+covered with them. Fry some grated bread in butter. Set it to drain
+before the fire, that it may harden; serve the crumbs in the dish under
+the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[56-*] The process by which the liver of the unfortunate goose is
+enlarged, in order to produce that richest of all dainties, _the foie
+gras_, of which such renowned pâtés are made at Strasbourg and Toulouse,
+is thus described in the "Cours Gastronomique:" "On deplumes l'estomac
+des oies; on attache ensuite ces animaux aux chenets d'une cheminée, et
+on le nourrit devant le feu. La captivité et la chaleur donnent a ces
+volatiles une maladie hepatique, qui fait gonfler leur foie."
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS.
+
+
+STUFFING FOR VEAL.
+
+    Poor Roger Fowler, who'd a generous mind,
+    Nor would submit to have his hand confined,
+    But aimed at all,--yet never could excel
+    In anything but _stuffing of his veal_.
+
+Good stuffing has always been considered a chief thing in cookery. Mince
+a quarter of a pound of beef suet or marrow, the same weight of
+breadcrumbs, two drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet
+marjoram or lemon thyme, and the same of grated lemon-peel and onion
+chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt; pound thoroughly
+together with the yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it in the veal
+with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread.
+
+
+FORCEMEAT BALLS.
+
+    And own they gave him a lively notion,
+    What his own _forced meat balls_ would be.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take an equal quantity of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred, beat
+them in a marble mortar, add pepper, salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel,
+and nutmeg grated, parsley, and sweet herbs chopped fine, a little
+shallot and young onion, a few breadcrumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg,
+sufficient to work it light; roll this into balls with a little flour,
+and fry them.
+
+
+VOL AU VENT.
+
+    Boy, tell the cook I love all nicknackeries,
+    Fricasees, _vol au vents_, puffs, and gimcrackeries.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Roll off tart paste till about the eighth of an inch thick, then with a
+tin cutter made for that purpose cut out the shape (about the size of
+the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), lay it on a
+baking-plate with paper, rub the paste over with the yolk of an egg.
+Roll out good puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter,
+and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and
+press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with
+yolk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a
+light-brown color when done; take out the paste inside the centre mark,
+preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted
+fill it with a white fricasee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread,
+or any other entree you wish. Serve hot.
+
+
+OYSTER PATTIE.
+
+     _De Beringhen._ In the next room there's a delicious pâté, let's
+     discuss it.
+
+     _Baradas._ Pshaw! a man filled with a sublime ambition has no time
+     to discuss your pâtés.
+
+     _De Beringhen._ Pshaw! and a man filled with as sublime a pâté has
+     no time to discuss ambition. Gad, I have the best of it.
+                    BULWER'S RICHELIEU.
+
+Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor and add them to it. Cut
+into thin slices the kidney-fat of a loin of veal; season them with
+white pepper, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the bottom
+of a pie-dish, put in the oysters and liquor, with a little more
+seasoning; put over them the marrow of two bones. Lay a border of puff
+paste around the edge of the dish, cover it with paste, and bake it
+nearly three quarters of an hour.
+
+
+PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD.
+
+    Seducing young pâtés, as ever could cozen
+    One out of one's appetite, down by the dozen.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or round pieces, nearly
+three inches high, and cut bits the same width for tops. Mark them
+neatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light-brown color in clarified
+beef-dripping or fine lard; scoop out the inside crumb; take care not to
+go too near the bottom; fill them with mince-meat prepared as for
+patties, with stewed oysters or with sausage meat; put on the tops, and
+serve them on a napkin.
+
+
+MACARONI GRATIN.
+
+    Where so ready all nature its cookery yields,
+    _Macaroni au Parmesan_ grows in the fields.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Lay fried bread pretty closely round a dish; boil your macaroni in the
+usual way, and pour it into the dish; smooth it all over, and strew
+breadcrumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese;
+drop a little melted butter on it, and put it in the oven to brown.
+
+
+TRUFFLES.
+
+    What will not _Luxury taste_? _Earth_, sea and air
+    Are daily ransacked for the bill of fare.
+                    GAY.
+
+The truffle, like the mushroom, is a species of fungus, common in France
+and Italy; it is generally about eight to ten inches below the surface
+of the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much used in
+cookery.
+
+Being dug out of the earth, it requires a great deal of washing and
+brushing. It loses much of its flavor when dried.
+
+
+TO STEW MUSHROOMS.
+
+    Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go,
+    That he might taste their soups and _mushrooms_ know.
+                    KING.
+
+Take a pint of white stock; season it with salt, pepper, and a little
+lemon pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled in flour; clean and
+peel the mushrooms, sprinkle them with a very little salt, boil them for
+three minutes; put them into the gravy when it is hot, and stew them for
+fifteen minutes.
+
+
+
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+MUSHROOM KETCHUP.
+
+                              If you please,
+    I'll taste your tempting toasted cheese,
+    Broiled ham, and nice _mushroom'd ketchup_.
+
+If you love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, after the
+following directions, and you will have a delicious relish for made
+dishes, ragouts, soup, sauces, or hashes. Mushroom gravy approaches the
+nature and flavor of made gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is
+the superlative substitute for it; in meagre soups and extempore
+gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably
+awaken the palate and encourage the appetite.
+
+A couple quarts of double ketchup, made according to the following
+receipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of
+time and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce as
+can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. I believe the following is
+the best way for preparing and extracting the essence of mushrooms, so
+as to procure and preserve their flavor for a considerable length of
+time.
+
+Look out for mushrooms, from the beginning of September. Take care of
+the right sort and fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps are to be preferred.
+Put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle
+them with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and some more salt on
+them, and so on, alternately, salt and mushrooms; let them remain two or
+three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms,
+and rendered them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or mash
+them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not
+longer, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day; then pour them
+into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole
+black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close,
+and set in a stewpan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours
+at least.
+
+Take out the jar, and pour the juice, clear from the settlings, through
+a hair sieve (without squeezing the mushrooms), into a clean stewpan;
+let it boil very gently for half an hour. Those who are for superlative
+ketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced to
+half the quantity. There are several advantages attending this
+concentration: it will keep much better, and only half the quantity
+required; so you can flavor sauce, &c., without thinning it; neither is
+this an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part is
+evaporated. Skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; cover
+it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day; then pour it
+off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the
+bottom of the jug), through a tamis or thick flannel bag, till it is
+perfectly clear; add a tablespoonful of good brandy to each pint of
+ketchup, and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment will be deposited,
+from which the ketchup is to be quietly poured off and bottled in pints
+or half pints (which have been washed in brandy or spirits). It is best
+to keep it in such quantities as are soon used.
+
+Take especial care that it is closely corked and sealed down. If kept in
+a cool dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but if it be
+badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil.
+
+Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck
+of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again
+with a few peppercorns.
+
+
+SUPERLATIVE SAUCE.
+
+    Who praises, in this _sauce enamor'd_ age,
+    Calm, healthful temperance, like an Indian sage?
+                    WARTON.
+
+Claret or Port wine and mushroom ketchup, a pint of each; half a pint of
+walnut or other pickle liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh
+lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and sliced eschalots, the
+same; scraped horseradish, ditto; allspice and black pepper, powdered,
+half an ounce each; cayenne, one drachm, or curry powder, three drachms;
+celery seed, bruised, one drachm; all avoirdupois weight. Put these into
+a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it every day for a
+fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the addition of
+a quarter of a pint of soy or thick browning), and you will have "a
+delicious double relish." Dr. Kitchener says, this composition is one of
+the chefs d'oeuvres of many experiments he has made, for the purpose
+of enabling good housewives to prepare their own sauces; it is equally
+agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragouts, &c.; and as a fair lady
+may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, that all
+the ingredients are good and wholesome.
+
+_Obs._ Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of the
+substances necessary to make sauce; the above composition of the several
+articles from which the various gravies derive their flavor, will be
+found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large
+tablespoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, or
+broth, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly
+equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual nerves into good
+humor as anything I know.
+
+
+MINT SAUCE.
+
+    "Live bullion," says merciless Bob, "which I think
+    Would, if coined with a little _mint sauce_, be delicious."
+                    MOORE.
+
+Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to this
+add one-third the quantity of parsley), pick the leaves from the stalks,
+mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with a teaspoonful
+of moist sugar and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
+
+
+CRANBERRY SAUCE.
+
+    Our fathers most admired their _sauces sweet_,
+    And often asked for sugar _with their meat_.
+                    KING.
+
+Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with just
+about a teacup of water; stew them slowly and stir them frequently,
+particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal of
+stewing, and should be like marmalade when done. When they are broken
+and the juice comes out, stir in a pound of white sugar. When they are
+thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them away to get
+cold. You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould,
+and when it is a firm shape send it to table.
+
+Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast fowl, turkey, &c.
+
+
+CAPER SAUCE.
+
+                          Along these shores
+    Neglected trade with difficulty toils,
+    Collecting slender stores; the sun-dried grape,
+    Or _capers_ from the rock, that prompt the taste
+    Of luxury.
+                    DYER.
+
+To make a quarter of a pint, take a tablespoonful of capers and two
+teaspoonfuls of vinegar. The present fashion of cutting capers is to
+mince one-third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put
+them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened gravy;
+stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil.
+Some boil and mince fine a few leaves of parsley or chevrel or tarragon,
+and add to the sauce; others, the juice of half a Seville orange or
+lemon.
+
+
+
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+    Grateful and salutary Spring! the _plants_
+    Which crown thy numerous gardens, and invite
+    To health and temperance, in the simple meal,
+    Unstain'd with murder, undefil'd with blood,
+    Unpoison'd with rich sauces, to provoke
+    The unwilling appetite to gluttony.
+    For this, the _bulbous esculents_ their roots
+    With sweetness fill; for this, with cooling juice
+    The green herb spreads its _leaves_; and opening _buds_
+    And _flowers_ and _seeds_ with various flavors tempts
+    Th' ensanguined palate from its savage feast.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+
+As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to the
+largest or smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full of flavor,
+just before they are quite full grown. Freshness is their chief value
+and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animal alive,
+as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead.
+
+To boil them in soft water will preserve the color best of such as are
+green; if you have only hard water, put to it a teaspoonful of carbonate
+of potash.
+
+Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, and
+insects. This requires great attention.
+
+If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, make
+it boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before you
+put in the greens, &c., which should not be put in till the water boils
+briskly; the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When the
+vegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has been
+kept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will lose
+their color and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly before
+you send them to table.
+
+This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention.
+
+
+TO DRESS SALAD.
+
+    Two large potatoes, pressed through kitchen sieve,
+    Smoothness and softness to the _salad_ give;
+    Of mordant mustard add a single spoon;
+    Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
+    But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,
+    To add a double quantity of salt.
+    Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
+    And twice with vinegar procured from town;
+    True flavor needs it, and your poet begs
+    The pounded yellow of two boiled eggs;
+    Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
+    And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
+    And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss
+    A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.
+    O great and glorious! O herbaceous treat!
+    'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat,
+    Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
+    And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl.
+                    REV. SIDNEY SMITH.
+
+If the herbs be young, fresh-gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dry
+and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the above directions, he
+cannot fail of obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished
+salad-dresser.
+
+
+ONIONS.
+
+    The things we eat, by various juice control
+    The narrowness or largeness of our soul.
+    _Onions_ will make e'en heirs or widows weep;
+    The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep.
+                    KING.
+
+Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to put
+them on to boil; put them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold water;
+let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size and
+age) from half an hour to an hour.
+
+
+ARTICHOKES.
+
+    Whose appetites would soon devour
+    Each cabbage, _artichoke_, and flower.
+                    CAWTHORNE.
+
+Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of
+boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently till
+tender, which will take an hour and a half or two hours. The surest way
+to know when they are done enough is to draw out a leaf. Trim them and
+drain them on a sieve, and send up melted butter with them, which some
+put into small cups, so that each guest may have one.
+
+
+LIMA BEANS.
+
+    Now fragrant with the _bean's_ perfume,
+    Now purpled with the pulse's bloom,
+    Might well with bright allusions store me;
+    But happier bards have been before me.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should be
+gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and then
+boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft; drain them well,
+and add to them some butter. They are destroyed by the first frost, but
+can be kept during the winter by gathering them on a dry day, when full
+grown, but not the least hard, and putting them in their pods into a
+keg. Throw some salt into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a
+layer of bean pods, then add more salt, and then another layer of beans
+in their pods, till the keg is full. Press them down with a heavy
+weight, cover the keg closely, and keep it in a cool, dry place. Before
+you use them, soak the pods all night in cold water, the next day shell
+them, and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them.
+
+
+POTATOES.
+
+    Leeks to the Welsh, to Dutchmen butter's dear;
+    Of Irish swains, _potatoes_ is the cheer.
+                    GAY.
+
+Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Fill
+a saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size (or make them so by
+dividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as will cover
+them about an inch; they are sooner boiled, and more savory than when
+drowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too little
+water; but potatoes are often spoiled by having too much; they must be
+merely covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that they
+may be just covered at the finish. Set them on a moderate fire till they
+boil; then take them off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmer
+slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork. Place no dependence on
+the usual test of their skins cracking, which, if they are boiled fast,
+will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done, and the
+insides quite hard. Then pour the water off--(if you let the potatoes
+remain in the water a moment after they are done enough, they will
+become waxy and watery),--uncover the saucepan, and set it at such a
+distance from the fire as will secure it from burning; their superfluous
+moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be perfectly dry and
+mealy.
+
+You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of the
+saucepan's diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till
+wanted.
+
+This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to steaming
+them, and they are dressed in half the time.
+
+There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, it is
+impossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way is to try
+them with a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will generally be done enough
+in fifteen or twenty minutes.
+
+
+PEAS.
+
+    Your infant _peas_ to asparagus prefer;
+    Which to the supper you may best defer.
+                    KING.
+
+Young green peas, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicacies
+of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young. It is equally
+indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they
+are shelled, for they soon lose both their color and sweetness. After
+being shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullender, put them on, in
+plenty of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt; boil them till they
+become tender, which, if young, will be less than half an hour; if old,
+they will require more than an hour. Drain them in a cullender, and put
+them into a dish, with a slice of fresh butter in it. Some people think
+it an improvement to boil a small bunch of mint with the peas; it is
+then minced finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or sides of the
+dish. If peas are allowed to stand in the water, after being boiled,
+they lose their color.
+
+
+RICE.
+
+                Every week dispense
+    English beans or _Carolinian rice_.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Wash the rice perfectly clean; put on one pound in two quarts of cold
+water; let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a sieve, and put it
+before the fire; shake it up with a fork every now and then, to separate
+the grains, and make it quite dry. Serve it hot.
+
+
+TURNIPS.
+
+    On _turnips_ feast whene'er you please,
+    And riot in my beans and peas.
+                    GAY.
+
+Wash, peel, and boil them till tender, in water with a little salt;
+serve them with melted butter. Or they may be stewed in a pint of milk,
+thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with salt
+and pepper, and served with the sauce.
+
+
+SPINACH.
+
+    Much meat doth Gluttony procure,
+      To feed men fat as swine;
+    But he's a frugal man, indeed,
+      That on _the leaf_ can dine.
+
+Pick it very carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or three times; then
+put it on in boiling water with a little salt; let it boil nearly twenty
+minutes. Put it into a cullender; hold it under the watercock, and let
+the water run on it for a minute. Put it into a saucepan; beat it
+perfectly smooth with a wooden spoon; add a bit of butter, and three
+tablespoonfuls of cream. Mix it well together, and make it hot before
+serving.
+
+
+ASPARAGUS.
+
+    At early morn, I to the market haste,
+    (Studious in everything to please thy taste);
+    A curious fowl and _'sparagus_ I chose,
+    (For I remembered you were fond of those).
+                    GAY.
+
+Boil asparagus in salt and water till it is tender at the stalk, which
+will be in twenty or thirty minutes. Great care must be taken to watch
+the exact time of its becoming tender. Toast some bread; dip it lightly
+in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of
+the dish; melt some butter; lay the asparagus upon the toast, which must
+project beyond the asparagus, that the company may see that there is
+toast.
+
+
+CARROTS.
+
+    And when his juicy salads fail'd,
+    Slic'd _carrots_ pleased him well.
+                    COWPER.
+
+Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. If young spring
+carrots, an hour is enough. When done, rub off the peels with a clean
+coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size.
+The best way to try if they are boiled enough, is to pierce them with a
+fork.
+
+
+LEEKS.
+
+    With carrots red, and turnips white,
+    And _leeks_, Cadwallader's delight,
+    And all the savory crop that vie
+    To please the palate and the eye.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Leeks are most generally used for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes.
+They are very rarely brought to table; in which case dress them as
+follows. Put them in the stock pot till about three parts done; then
+take them out, drain and soak them in vinegar seasoned with pepper,
+salt, and cloves; drain them again, stuff their hearts with a farce, dip
+them in butter, and fry them.
+
+
+
+
+TO DRY HERBS.
+
+    _Herbs_ too she knew, and well of each could speak
+      That in her garden sipp'd the silvery dew,
+    Where no vain flower disclosed a gaudy streak,
+      But herbs, for use and physic, not a few
+    Of gray renown, within those borders grew,--
+      The _tufted basil_, _pun-provoking thyme_,
+    Fresh _balm_, and _marigold_ of cheerful hue,
+      The _lowly gill_, that never dares to climb,
+    And more I fain would sing, disdaining here to rhyme.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+
+It is very important to know when the various seasons commence for
+picking sweet and savory herbs for drying. Care should be taken that
+they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better
+color when dried. Cleanse them well from dirt and dust, cut off the
+roots, separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat
+of the stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such
+quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, _i. e._
+"Kill 'em quick," says a great botanist; by this means their flavor will
+be best preserved. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drying,
+&c., hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of
+the sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only caution
+requisite is to avoid burning; and of this a sufficient test is afforded
+by the preservation of the color. The best method to preserve the flavor
+of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried,
+and to pound them, and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them in
+well-stopped bottles labelled.
+
+
+
+
+PICKLES.
+
+
+MANGOES.
+
+    What lord of old would bid his cook prepare
+    _Mangoes_, potargo, champignons, caviare!
+                    KING.
+
+There is a particular sort of melon for this purpose. Cut a square small
+piece out of one side, and through that take out the seeds, mix with
+them mustard seeds and shred garlic, stuff the melon as full as the
+space will allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up with small
+new pack-thread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting,
+with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour it boiling over the mangoes, four
+successive days; the last day put flour of mustard and scraped
+horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Observe that there is
+plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled, if not well covered.
+
+
+PICKLED CABBAGE.
+
+    Lives in a cell, and eats from week to week
+    A meal of _pickled cabbage_ and ox cheek.
+                    CAWTHORNE.
+
+Choose two middling-sized, well-colored and firm red cabbages, shred
+them very finely, first pulling off the outside leaves; mix with them
+nearly half a pound of salt; tie it up in a thin cloth, and let it hang
+for twelve hours; then put it into small jars, and pour over it cold
+vinegar that has been boiled with a few barberries in it. Boil in a
+quart of vinegar, three bits of ginger, half an ounce of pepper, and a
+quarter of an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over the red cabbage.
+Tie the jar closely with bladder.
+
+
+
+
+SWEETMEATS.
+
+
+TO CLARIFY SUGAR.
+
+    'Mongst salts essential, _sugar_ wins the palm,
+    For taste, for color, and for various use.
+    O'er all thy works let cleanliness preside,
+    Child of frugality; and as the scum
+    Thick mantles o'er the boiling wave, do thou
+    The scum that mantles carefully remove.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+                            Whereof little
+    More than a little is by much too much.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+To every three pounds of loaf sugar, allow the beaten white of an egg
+and a pint and a half of water; break the sugar small, put it into a
+nicely cleaned brass pan, pour the water over it; let it stand some time
+before it be put upon the fire, then add the beaten white of the egg;
+stir it till the sugar be entirely dissolved; when it boils up, pour in
+a quarter of a pint of cold water, let it boil up a second time, take it
+off the fire, let it settle for fifteen minutes, carefully take off all
+the scum, let it boil again till sufficiently thick; in order to
+ascertain which, drop a little from a spoon into a jar of cold water,
+and if it become quite hard, it is sufficiently done, and the fruit to
+be preserved must instantly be put in and boiled.
+
+
+CURRANT JELLY.
+
+    He snuffs far off the anticipated joy,
+    _Jelly_ and ven'son all his thoughts employ.
+                    COWPER.
+
+Currant, grape, and raspberry jelly are all made precisely in the same
+manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day. As soon as
+it is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close.
+Set the jar in a saucepan, about three parts filled with cold water; put
+it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the
+pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag,
+pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. To each
+pint of juice, add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded,
+when it is put into a preserving pan; set it on the fire, and boil it
+gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or forty
+minutes), _i. e._ till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear and
+fine; pour it warm into pots, and when cold, cover them with paper
+wetted in brandy.
+
+Half a pint of this jelly dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar will
+give you an excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar.
+
+_Obs._ Jellies from the fruits are made in the same way, and cannot be
+preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. The best way is
+the cheapest.
+
+
+APPLE JELLY.
+
+    The board was spread with fruits and wine;
+    With grapes of gold, like those that shine
+      On Caslin's hills; pomegranates, full
+    Of melting sweetness, and the pears
+      And sunniest _apples_ that Cabul
+    In all its thousand gardens bears.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Pare and mince three dozen juicy, acid apples; put them into a pan;
+cover them with water, and boil them till very soft; strain them through
+a thin cloth or flannel bag; allow a pound of loaf sugar to a pint of
+juice, with the grated peel and juice of six lemons. Boil it for twenty
+minutes; take off the scum as it rises.
+
+
+CHERRY JELLY.
+
+    With rich conserve of _Visna cherries_,
+    Of orange flower, and of those berries
+    That----.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take the stones and stalks from two pounds of clear, fine, ripe
+cherries; mix them with a quarter of a pound of red currants, from which
+the seeds have been extracted; express the juice from these fruits;
+filter, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar,
+and one ounce of isinglass. Replace the vessel on the fire with the
+juice, and add to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled _à conserve_.
+Boil together a few times, and then pour the conserve into cases.
+
+
+CALVES' FEET JELLY.
+
+    Nature hates vacuums, as you know,
+    We, therefore, will descend below,
+    And fill, with dainties nice and light,
+    The vacuum in your appetite.
+    Besides, good wine and dainty fare
+    Are sometimes known to lighten care;
+    Nay, man is often brisk or dull,
+    As the keen stomach's void or full.
+
+To four feet add four quarts of water; let them boil on a slow fire till
+the flesh is parted from the bones, and the quantity reduced to half;
+strain it carefully, and the next morning remove the feet and sediment.
+Add the rind of two lemons, the juice of five lemons, one and a half
+pounds of white sugar, a stick of cinnamon, a little nutmeg, a pint of
+sherry wine, half a teacupful of brandy; beat the white of ten eggs to a
+froth, and put them into the pan with their shells; let it boil ten
+minutes, when throw in a teacupful of cold water. Strain it through a
+flannel bag, first dipped into boiling water.
+
+
+PINEAPPLE PRESERVE.
+
+    And the _sun's child_, the _mail'd anana_, yields
+    His _regal apple_ to the ravish'd taste.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Pare your pineapple; cut it in small pieces, and leave out the core. Mix
+the pineapple with half a pound of powdered white sugar, and set it away
+in a covered dish till sufficient juice is drawn out to stew the fruit
+in.
+
+Stew the pineapple in the sugar and juice till quite soft, then mash it
+to a marmalade with the back of a spoon, and set it away to cool; pour
+it in tumblers, cover them with paper, gum-arabicked on.
+
+
+
+
+EGGS.
+
+
+OMELET.
+
+    Though many, I own, are the evils they've brought us,
+      Though R**al*y's here on her very last legs;
+    Yet who can help loving the land that has taught us
+      Six hundred and eighty-five ways to dress _eggs_!
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take as many eggs as you think proper; break them into a pan, with some
+salt and chopped parsley; beat them well, and season them according to
+taste. Have ready some onion, chopped small; put some butter into a
+fryingpan, and when it is hot, put in your chopped onion, giving them
+two or three turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the whole of a
+nice brown. You must only fry one side; serve the fried side uppermost.
+
+
+TO POACH EGGS.
+
+    But, after all, what would you have me do,
+    When, out of twenty, I can please not two?
+    One likes the pheasant's wing, and one the leg;
+    The vulgar boil, the learned _poach an egg_;
+    Hard task to hit the palate of such guests,
+    When Oldfield loves what Dartineuf detests.
+                    POPE.
+
+The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavor to
+procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days; those that are new
+laid are so milky, that, take all the care you can, your cooking of them
+will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher. You must
+have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. The beauty of a poached
+egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the white, which should
+only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil for the
+egg. Have some boiling water in a teakettle; pass as much of it through
+a clean cloth as will half fill a stewpan; break the egg into a cup, and
+when the water boils remove the stewpan from the stove, and gently slip
+the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it on a
+very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is ready.
+Take it up with a slicer, and neatly place it on a piece of toast.
+
+
+BOILED EGGS.
+
+    On holydays, an _egg or two_ at most;
+    But her ambition never reached to roast.
+                    CHAUCER.
+
+The fresher laid the better. Put them into boiling water; if you like
+the white just set, about two minutes' boiling is enough. A new-laid egg
+will take a little more. If you wish the yolk to be set, it will take
+three, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid egg
+will require longer boiling than a stale one by half a minute.
+
+
+FRIED EGGS.
+
+    Go work, hunt, exercise (he thus begun),
+    Then scorn a homely dinner if you can;
+    _Fried eggs_, and herbs, and olives, still we see:
+    This much is left of old simplicity.
+                    POPE.
+
+Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may be served as a second
+course dish, to eat with roast chicken.
+
+
+EGGS AND BREAD.
+
+    Never go to France,
+      Unless you know the lingo;
+    If you do, like me,
+      You'll repent, by jingo.
+    Starving like a fool,
+      And silent as a mummy,
+    There I stood alone,
+      A nation with a dummy.
+
+    Signs I had to make
+      For every little notion;
+    Limbs all going like
+      A telegraph in motion;
+    If I wanted _bread_,
+      My jaws I set a-going,
+    And asked for _new laid eggs_
+      By clapping hands and crowing.
+
+Put half a handful of breadcrumbs into a saucepan, with a small
+quantity of cream, sugar, and nutmeg, and let it stand till the bread
+has imbibed all the cream; then break ten eggs into it, and having
+beaten them up together, fry it like an omelet.
+
+
+OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.
+
+    "Where is my favorite dish?" he cried;
+    "Let some one place it by my side!"
+                    DONNE.
+
+Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four (set aside the
+remaining whites), with a spoonful of water, some salt, sugar, and the
+juice of a lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish. Whip the four
+whites which were set aside to a froth with sugar, and place it over the
+fried eggs; bake it for a few minutes.
+
+
+
+
+DESSERTS.
+
+
+PUFF PASTE.
+
+                            The _puffs_ made me light,
+    And now that's all over, I'm pretty well, thank you.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Weigh an equal quantity of flour and butter, rub rather more than half
+the flour into one-third of the butter; add as much cold water as will
+make it into a stiff paste; work it until the butter be completely mixed
+with the flour, make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin, dust it, as
+also the rolling-pin with flour, and roll it out towards the opposite
+side of the slab, or paste-board, making it of an equal thickness, then
+with the point of a knife, put little bits of butter all over it, dust
+flour over it and under it, fold in all the sides, and roll it up, dust
+it again with flour, beat it a little, and roll out, always rubbing the
+rolling-pin with flour, and throwing some underneath the paste to
+prevent its sticking to the board.
+
+It should be touched as little as possible with the hands.
+
+
+PYRAMID PASTE.
+
+    You that from pliant _paste_ would fabrics raise,
+    Expecting thence to gain immortal praise,
+    Your knuckles try, and let your sinews know
+    Their power to knead, and give the form to dough;
+    From thence of course the figure will arise,
+    And elegance adorn the surface of your pies.
+                    KING.
+
+Make a rich puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut it
+into five or seven pieces with scalloped tin cutters, which go one
+within another; leave the bottom and top piece entire, and cut a bit out
+of the centre of the others. Place them upon buttered baking tins, and
+bake them of a light brown. Build them into a pyramid, laying a
+different preserved fruit upon each piece of paste, and on the top a
+whole apricot with a sprig of myrtle stuck in it.
+
+
+FRUIT PIES.
+
+    Unless some _sweetness_ at the bottom lie,
+    Who cares for all the crinkling of the pie!
+                    KING.
+
+Fruit pies for family use are generally made with common paste. Allow
+three quarters of a pound of butter to a pound and a half of flour.
+Peaches and plums for pies should be cut in half, and the stones taken
+out. Cherries also should be stoned, and red cherries only should be
+used for pies. Apples should be cut into very thin slices, and are much
+improved by a little lemon-peel. Apples stewed previous to baking,
+should not be done till they break, but only till they are tender. They
+should then be drained in a cullender, and chopped fine with a knife or
+edge of a spoon. In making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good way to set
+a small teacup on the bottom crust, and lay the fruit round it. The
+juice will collect under the cup, and not run out at the edges or top of
+the pie. The fruit should be mixed with a sufficient quantity of sugar,
+and piled up in the middle, so as to make the pie highest in the centre.
+
+The upper crust should be pricked with a fork. The edges should be
+nicely crimped with a knife. If stewed fruit is put in warm, it will
+make the paste heavy. If your pies are made in the form of shells, the
+fruit should always be stewed first, or it will not be sufficiently
+done, as the shells (which should be made of puff paste) must not bake
+so long as covered pies.
+
+Fruit pies with lids should have loaf sugar grated over them.
+
+
+MINCE PIES.
+
+    When Terence spoke, oraculous and sly,
+    He'd neither grant the question nor deny,
+    Pleading for tarts, his thoughts were on _mince pie_.
+
+    My poor endeavors view with gracious eye,
+    To make these lines above a _Christmas pie_.
+
+Two pounds of boiled beef's heart or fresh tongue, or lean fresh beef
+chopped, when cold; two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, four pounds of
+pippin apples chopped, two pounds of raisins stoned and chopped, two
+pounds of currants picked, washed, and dried, two pounds of powdered
+sugar, one quart of white wine, one quart of brandy, one wine-glass of
+rose-water, two grated nutmegs, half an ounce of cinnamon, powdered, a
+quarter of an ounce of mace, powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, two large
+oranges, and half a pound of citron cut in slips. Pack it closely into
+stone jars, and tie them over with paper. When it is to be used, add a
+little more wine.
+
+
+PLUM PUDDING.
+
+    All you who to feasting and mirth are inclined,
+    Come, here is good news for to pleasure your mind.
+    Old Christmas is come, for to keep open house:
+    He scorns to be guilty of starving a mouse.
+    Then come, boys, and welcome, for diet the chief,--
+    _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.
+    The cooks shall be busied, by day and by night,
+    In roasting and _boiling_, for taste and delight.
+    Provision is making for beer, ale, and wine,
+    For all that are willing or ready to dine.
+    Meantime goes the caterer to fetch in _the chief_,--
+    _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.
+                    ANCIENT CHRISTMAS CAROL.
+
+One quarter of a pound of beef suet; take out the strings and skin; chop
+it to appear like butter; stone one pound of raisins, one pound of
+currants, well washed, dried, and floured, one pound loaf sugar, rolled
+and sifted, one pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten; beat all well
+together for some time, then add by degrees two glasses of brandy, one
+wine, one rose-water, citron, nutmeg, and cinnamon; beat it all
+extremely well together, tie it in a floured cloth very tight, let it
+boil four hours constantly; let your sauce be a quarter pound of butter,
+beat to a cream, a quarter pound loaf sugar pounded and sifted; beat in
+the butter with a little wine and sugar and nutmeg.
+
+
+COCOANUT PUDDING.
+
+    Whatever was the _best pie_ going,
+    In _that_ Ned--trust him--had his finger.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take the thin brown skin off of a quarter pound of cocoa, wash it in
+cold water, and wipe it dry; grate it fine, stir three and half ounces
+of butter and a quarter pound of powdered sugar, to a cream; add half
+teaspoonful of rose-water, half glass of wine and of brandy mixed, to
+them. Beat the white of six eggs till they stand alone, and then stir
+them into the butter and sugar; afterwards sprinkle in the grated nut,
+and stir hard all the time. Put puff paste into the bottom of the dish,
+pour in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, half an hour. Grate
+loaf sugar over it when cold.
+
+
+APPLE PUDDING.
+
+    Where London's column, pointing to the skies,
+    Like a tall bully, lifts the head and lies,
+    There dwelt a citizen of sober fame,
+    A plain, good man, and Balaam was his name;
+    Religious, punctual, frugal, and so forth,
+    His word would pass for more than he was worth;
+    One solid dish his week-day meal affords,
+    And _apple pudding_ solemnized the Lord's.
+                    POPE.
+
+Make a batter of two eggs, a pint of milk and three or four spoonfuls
+of flour; pour it into a deep dish, and having pared six or eight
+apples, place them whole in the batter, and bake them.
+
+
+HASTY PUDDING.
+
+    But man, more fickle, the bold license claims,
+    In different realms, to give thee different names.
+    _Thee_, the soft nations round the warm Levant
+    Polanta call; the French, of course, Polante.
+    E'en in thy native regions, how I blush
+    To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee _mush_!
+    All spurious appellations, void of truth;
+    I've better known thee from my earliest youth:
+    Thy name is _Hasty Pudding_! Thus our sires
+    Were wont to greet thee from the fuming fires;
+    And while they argued in thy just defence,
+    With logic clear, they thus explained the sense:
+    "In _haste_ the boiling caldron, o'er the blaze,
+    Receives and cooks the ready-powdered maize;
+    In haste 'tis served, and then in equal _haste_,
+    With cooling milk, we make the sweet repast.
+    No carving to be done, no knife to grate
+    The tender ear, and wound the stony plate;
+    But the smooth spoon, just fitted to the lip,
+    And taught with art the yielding mass to dip,
+    By frequent journeys to the bowl well stored,
+    Performs the _hasty_ honors of the board."
+    Such is thy name, significant and clear,--
+    A name, a sound, to every Yankee dear;
+    But most to me, whose heart and palate chaste
+    Preserve my pure, hereditary taste.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+
+YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
+
+                      The strong table groans
+    Beneath the smoking sirloin, stretch'd immense
+    From side to side; in which with desperate knife
+    They deep incisions make, and talk the while
+    Of England's glory, ne'er to be defaced
+    While hence they borrow vigor; or amain
+    Into the _pudding_ plunged at intervals,
+    If stomach keen can intervals allow,
+    Relating all the glories of the chase.
+                    THOMSON.
+
+This pudding is especially an excellent accompaniment to a sirloin of
+beef. Six tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt,
+and a pint of milk, make a middling stiff batter; beat it up well; take
+care it is not lumpy. Put a dish under the meat; let the drippings drop
+into it, till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter.
+When the upper surface is browned and set, turn it, that both sides may
+be brown alike. A pudding an inch thick will take two hours. Serve it
+under the roast beef, that the juice of the beef may enter it. It is
+very fine.
+
+
+SUET PUDDING.
+
+    Sir Balaam now, he lives like other folks;
+    He takes his chirping, and cracks his jokes.
+    Live like yourself, was soon my lady's word;
+    And lo! _suet pudding_ was seen upon the board.
+                    POPE.
+
+Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three tablespoonfuls; eggs two, and a
+little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as
+possible; roll it with the rolling-pin, so as to mix it well with the
+flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix them all
+together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, and boil it an hour and
+a quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it: "When you have made your water boil, then
+put your pudding into your pot."
+
+
+OATMEAL PUDDING.
+
+    Of oats decorticated take two pounds,
+    And of new milk enough the same to drown;
+    Of raisins of the sun, stoned, ounces eight;
+    Of currants, cleanly picked, an equal weight;
+    Of suet, finely sliced, an ounce at least;
+    And six eggs, newly taken from the nest:
+    Season this mixture well with salt and spice;
+    'Twill make a pudding far exceeding rice;
+    And you may safely feed on it like farmers,
+    For the recipe is learned Dr. Harmer's.
+
+
+EVE'S PUDDING.
+
+    If you want a good pudding, mind what you are taught:
+    Take eggs, six in number, when bought for a groat;
+    The fruit with which Eve her husband did cozen,
+    Well pared and well chopped, take at least half a dozen;
+    Six ounces of bread--let the cook eat the crust--
+    And crumble the soft as fine as the dust;
+    Six ounces of currants from the stalks you must sort,
+    Lest they husk out your teeth, and spoil all the sport;
+    Six ounces of sugar won't make it too sweet,
+    And some salt and some nutmeg will make it complete.
+    Three hours let it boil, without any flutter,
+    And Adam won't like it without sugar and butter.
+                    ANONYMOUS.
+
+
+CHARLOTTE DES POMMES.
+
+    _Charlotte_, from rennet apples first did frame
+    _A pie_, which still retains her name.
+    Though common grown, yet with white sugar stewed,
+    And butter'd right, its goodness is allowed.
+                    KING.
+
+Pare, core, and mince fifteen French rennet apples; put them into a
+frying-pan with some powdered loaf sugar, a little pounded cinnamon,
+grated lemon-peel, and two ounces and a half of fresh butter; fry them a
+quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stirring them constantly. Butter
+the shape the size the Charlotte is intended to be; cut strips of bread
+long enough to reach from the bottom to the rim of the shape, so that
+the whole be lined with bread; dip each bit into melted butter, and put
+a layer of fried apples, and one of apricot jam or marmalade, and then
+one of bread dipped into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour. Turn it out to serve.
+
+
+BATTER PUDDING.
+
+    A frugal man, upon the whole,
+    Yet loved his friend, and had a soul;
+    Knew what was handsome, and would do't
+    On just occasion, coûte qui coûte.
+    He brought him bacon (nothing lean);
+    _Pudding_, that might have pleased a dean;
+    Cheese, such as men of Suffolk make,
+    But wished it Stilton for his sake.
+                    POPE.
+
+Take six ounces of flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat it well
+with a little milk, added by degrees, till the batter becomes smooth;
+make it the thickness of cream; put it into a buttered and floured bag;
+tie it tightly; boil one and a half hour, or two hours. Serve with wine
+sauce.
+
+
+APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+    By the rivulet, on the rushes,
+    Beneath a canopy of bushes,
+    Colin Blount and Yorkshire Tray
+    Taste the _dumplings_ and the whey.
+                    SMART.
+
+Pare and scoop out the core of six large baking apples; put part of a
+clove and a little grated lemon-peel inside of each, and enclose them in
+pieces of puff paste; boil them in nets for the purpose, or bits of
+linen, for an hour. Before serving, cut off a small bit from the top of
+each, and put a teaspoonful of sugar and a bit of fresh butter; replace
+the bit of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf sugar.
+
+
+SWEETMEAT FRITTERS.
+
+    If chronicles may be believed,
+    So loved the pamper'd gallant lived,
+    That with the nuns he always dined
+    On rarities of every kind;
+    Then hoards, occasionally varied,
+    Of biscuits, _sweetmeats_, nuts, and fruits.
+
+Cut small any sort of candied fruit, and heat it with a bit of fresh
+butter, some good milk, and a little grated lemon-peel; when quite hot,
+stir in enough of flour to make it into a stiff paste; take it off the
+fire, and work in eight or ten eggs, two at a time. When cold, form the
+fritters, fry, and serve them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over them.
+
+
+FRITTERS.
+
+    Methinks I scent some _rich repast_:
+    The savor strengthens with the blast.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take a dozen apricots, or any other fruit preserved in brandy; drain
+them in half; then wrap them in wafers, cut round, and previously
+moistened. Make the batter by putting a glass and a half of water, a
+grain of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, into a saucepan. When it
+boils, stir in sufficient quantity of flour to make it rather a firm
+batter; keep it stirring three minutes; then pour it into another
+vessel: dip the fruit in this batter, and fry them; sprinkle them with
+sugar, then serve.
+
+
+
+
+CREAMS.
+
+
+ICE CREAM.
+
+    After dreaming some hours of the land of Cocaigne,
+      That Elysium of all that is friand and nice,
+    Where for hail they have bonbons, and claret for rain,
+      And the skaters in winter show off on _cream ice_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Here _ice, like crystal firm_, and never lost,
+    Tempers hot July with December's frost.
+                    WALLER.
+
+Put a quart of rich cream into a broad pan; then stir in half a pound of
+powdered loaf sugar by degrees, and when all is well mixed, strain it
+through a sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, and set it in
+a tub. Fill the tub with ice broken into small pieces, and strew among
+the ice a large quantity of salt, taking care that none of the salt gets
+into the cream. Scrape the cream down with a spoon as it freezes round
+the edges of the tin. While the cream is freezing, stir in gradually the
+juice of two large lemons or the juice of a pint of mashed strawberries
+or raspberries. When it is all frozen, dip the tin in lukewarm water;
+take out the cream, and fill your glasses, but not till a few minutes
+before you want to use it, as it will melt very soon.
+
+If you wish to have it in moulds, put the cream into them as soon as it
+is frozen in the tin.
+
+Set the moulds in a tub of ice and salt. Just before you want to use the
+cream, take the moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash the salt carefully
+from the outside, dip the moulds into lukewarm water, and turn out the
+cream. You may flavor a quart of ice cream with two ounces of sweet
+almonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched, and beaten in a
+mortar with a little rose-water to a smooth paste.
+
+Stir in the almond gradually, while the cream is freezing.
+
+
+WHIPPED CREAM.
+
+    Pudding our parson eats, the squire loves hare,
+    But _whipped cream_ is my Buxoma's fare,
+    While she loves _whipped cream_, capon ne'er shall be,
+    Nor hare, nor beef, nor pudding, food for me.
+                    GAY.
+
+Sweeten with pounded loaf sugar a quart of cream, and to it a lump of
+sugar which has been rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or little
+oranges; or flavor it with orange flower water, a little essence of
+roses, the juice of strawberries, or any other fruit. Whisk the cream
+well in a large pan, and as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it on
+a sieve placed over another pan, and return the cream which drains from
+the froth till all is whisked; then heap it upon a dish, or put it into
+glasses.
+
+
+BOILED CUSTARDS.
+
+    And _boiled custard_, take its merit in brief,
+    Makes a noble dessert, where the dinner's roast beef.
+
+Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream,
+and the yolks of five eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of the
+seasoning, sweeten enough for the whole; pour it into the cream,
+stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper
+thickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way; then season
+with a large spoonful of peach-water, and two teaspoonfuls of brandy or
+a little ratafia. If you wish your custards extremely rich, put no milk,
+but a quart of cream.
+
+
+ORANGE CUSTARDS.
+
+    With _orange custards_ and the juicy pine,
+    On choicest melons and sweet grapes they dine.
+                    JONSON.
+
+Sweeten the strained juice of ten oranges with pounded loaf sugar, stir
+it over the fire till hot, take off the scum, and when nearly cold, add
+to it the beaten yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of cream; put it into
+a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve it in
+cups.
+
+
+CUSTARDS OR CREAMS.
+
+    But nicer cates, her dainty's boasted fare,
+    The _jellied cream_ or custards, daintiest food,
+    Or cheesecake, or the cooling syllabub,
+    For Thyrses she prepares.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Whisk for one hour the whites of two eggs, together with two
+tablespoonfuls of raspberry or red currant syrup or jelly; lay it in any
+form of a custard or cream, piled up to imitate rock. It may be served
+in a cream round it.
+
+
+ALMOND CREAMS.
+
+            And from _sweet kernels_ pressed,
+    She tempers _dulcet creams_.
+                    MILTON.
+
+Blanch and pound to a paste, with rose-water, six ounces of almonds; mix
+them with a pint and a half of cream which has been boiled with the peel
+of a small lemon; add two well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over the
+fire till it be thick, taking care not to allow it to boil; sweeten it,
+and when nearly cold, stir in a tablespoonful of orange-flower or
+rose-water.
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS.
+
+
+YEAST.
+
+    Not with the leaven, as of old,
+    Of sin and malice fed,
+    But with unfeigned sincerity.
+
+One dozen of potatoes, two cupfuls of hops; put them together in a bag,
+and place them in a pot with two quarts of water; let it boil till the
+potatoes are done; a cupful of salt, a ladle of flour; then pour the
+boiling water over it, then let it stand till lukewarm; add a cupful of
+old yeast, cover it up, and put near the fire till it foments.
+
+
+BREAD.
+
+    His diet was of _wheaten bread_.
+                    COWPER.
+
+    Mixt with the rustic throng, see ruddy maids,
+    Some taught with dextrous hand to twirl the wheel,
+                                      Some expert
+    To raise from _leavened wheat the kneaded loaf_.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+    Her _bread_ is deemed such dainty fare,
+    That ev'ry prudent traveller
+    His wallet loads with many a crust.
+                    COWPER.
+
+              Like the _loaf_ in the Tub's pleasant tale,
+    That was fish, flesh, and custard, good claret and ale,
+    It comprised every flavor, was all and was each,
+    Was grape and was pineapple, nectarine and peach.
+                    LOVILOND.
+
+Mix with six pounds of sifted flour one ounce of salt, nearly half a
+pint of fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brewery, and a sufficient
+quantity of warmed milk to make the whole into a stiff dough, work and
+knead it well on a board, on which a little flour has been strewed, for
+fifteen or twenty minutes, then put it into a deep pan, cover it with a
+warmed towel, set it before the fire, and let it rise for an hour and a
+half or perhaps two hours; cut off a piece of this sponge or dough;
+knead it well for eight or ten minutes, together with flour sufficient
+to keep it from adhering to the board, put it into small tins, filling
+them three quarters full; dent the rolls all around with a knife, and
+let them stand a few minutes before putting them in the oven.
+
+The remainder of the dough must then be worked up for loaves, and baked
+either in or out of shape.
+
+
+RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.
+
+    Of wine she never tasted through the year,
+    But white and black was all her homely cheer,
+    _Brown bread_ and milk (but first she skimmed her bowls),
+    And rasher of singed bacon on the coals.
+                    CHAUCER.
+
+Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them well
+together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling upon the meal; add
+two teaspoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let it stand
+till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half a pint of
+good, fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a smaller
+quantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and set it
+to rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been previously
+warmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light, and has
+cracked all over the top, make it into two loaves; put them into a
+moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.
+
+
+BUTTER.
+
+                                  Vessels large
+    And broad, by the sweet hand of neatness clean'd,
+    Meanwhile, in decent order ranged appear,
+    The milky treasure, strain'd thro' filtering lawn,
+    Intended to receive. At early day,
+    Sweet slumber shaken from her opening lids,
+    My lovely Patty to her dairy hies;
+    There, from the surface of expanded bowls
+    She skims the floating cream, and to her churn
+    Commits the rich consistence; nor disdains,
+    Though soft her hand, though delicate her frame,
+    To urge the rural toil, fond to obtain
+    The country housewife's humble name and praise.
+    Continued agitation separates soon
+    The unctuous particles; with gentler strokes
+    And artful, soon they coalesce; at length
+    Cool water pouring from the limpid spring
+    Into a smooth glazed vessel, deep and wide,
+    She gathers the loose fragments to a heap,
+    Which in the cleansing wave, well wrought and press'd,
+    To one consistent golden mass, receives
+    The sprinkled seasoning, and of pats or pounds
+    The fair impression, the neat shape assumes.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+
+COTTAGE CHEESE.
+
+                  Warm from the cow she pours
+    The milky flood. An acid juice infused,
+    From the dried stomach drawn of suckling calf,
+    Coagulates the whole. Immediate now
+    Her spreading hands bear down the gathering curd,
+    Which hard and harder grows, till, clear and thin,
+    The green whey rises separate.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Warm three half pints of cream with one half pint of milk, and put a
+little rennet to it; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled;
+have a proper mould with holes, either of china or any other; put the
+curds into it to drain, about one hour or less. Serve it with a good
+plain cream, and pounded sugar over it.
+
+
+
+
+CAKES.
+
+
+BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
+
+    Do, dear James, mix up the cakes:
+    Just one quart of meal it takes;
+    Pour the water on the pot,
+    Be careful it is not too hot;
+    Sift the meal well through your hand,
+    Thicken well--don't let it stand;
+    Stir it quick,--clash, clatter, clatter!
+    O what light, delicious batter!
+    Now listen to the next command:
+    On the dresser let it stand
+    Just three quarters of an hour,
+    To feel the gently rising power
+    Of powders, melted into yeast,
+    To lighten well this precious feast.
+    See, now it rises to the brim!
+    Quick, take the ladle, dip it in;
+    So let it rest, until the fire
+    The griddle heats as you desire.
+    Be careful that the coals are glowing,
+    No smoke around its white curls throwing;
+    Apply the suet, softly, lightly;
+    The griddle's black face shines more brightly.
+    Now pour the batter on; delicious!
+    Don't, dear James, think me officious,
+    But lift the tender edges lightly;
+    Now turn it over quickly, sprightly.
+    'Tis done! Now on the white plate lay it:
+    Smoking hot, with butter spread,
+    'Tis quite enough to turn our head!
+
+
+JOHNNY CAKES.
+
+    Some talk of hoecake, fair Virginia's pride!
+    Rich _Johnny cake_ this mouth has often tried;
+    Both please me well, their virtues much the same;
+    Alike their fabric, as allied their fame.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+A quart of sifted Indian meal, and a handful of wheat flour sifted; mix
+them; three eggs, well beaten; two tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's
+yeast, or flour of home made yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quart
+of milk.
+
+
+MUFFINS.
+
+    Friend, I am a shrewd observer, and will guess
+    What cakes you doat on for your favorite mess.
+                    ARMSTRONG.
+
+Take a pint of warm milk, and a quarter pint of thick small-beer yeast;
+strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like a
+batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has
+risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and an ounce of butter
+rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together; add sufficient
+flour to make it into a dough; cover it over. Let it stand half an hour;
+work it up again; break it into small pieces, roll them up quite round,
+and cover them over for a quarter of an hour, then bake them.
+
+
+PANCAKES.
+
+    With all her haughty looks, the time I've seen
+    When the proud damsel has more humble been;
+    When with nice airs she hoist the _pancake_ round,
+    And dropt it, hapless fair! upon the ground.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+To three tablespoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of white wine, four ounces of melted butter nearly cold,
+the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and a
+pint of cream. Mix it well, beating the batter for some time, and pour
+it thin over the pan.
+
+
+PLUM-CAKE.
+
+                              First in place,
+    _Plum-cake_ is seen o'er smaller pastry ware,
+    And ice on that.
+                    SWIFT.
+
+Pick two pounds of currants very clean, and wash them, draining them
+through a cullender. Wipe them in a towel, spread them out in a large
+dish, and set them near the fire or in the hot sun to dry, placing the
+dish in a slanting position. Having stoned two pounds of best raisins,
+cut them in half, and when all are done, sprinkle them well with sifted
+flour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. When the
+currants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour.
+
+Pound the spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two nutmegs, powdered;
+sift and mix the cinnamon and nutmeg together. Mix also a large glass of
+wine and brandy, half a glass of rose-water in a tumbler or cup. Cut a
+pound of citron in slips; sift a pound of flour in a broad dish, sift a
+pound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut a pound
+of butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold for
+it to mix easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat twelve
+eggs as light as possible; stir them into the butter and sugar
+alternately with the flour; stir very hard; add gradually the spice and
+liquor. Stir the raisins and currants alternately in the mixture, taking
+care that they are well floured. Stir the whole as hard as possible, for
+ten minutes after the ingredients are in.
+
+Cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan with sheets of
+white paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. Then
+spread some citron on it, which must not be cut too small; next put a
+layer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till all is
+in, having a layer of mixture at the top.
+
+This cake will require four or five hours baking, in proportion to its
+thickness.
+
+Ice it next day.
+
+
+LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.
+
+    Must see Rheims, much famed, 'tis said,
+    For making kings and _gingerbread_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Five eggs, half pound of brown sugar, half pound fresh butter, a pint of
+sugarhouse molasses, a pound and a half of flour, four tablespoonfuls of
+ginger, two large sticks of cinnamon, three dozen grains of allspice,
+three dozen of cloves, juice and grated peel of two lemons. Stir the
+butter and sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very well; pour the molasses
+at once into the butter and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, and
+stir all well together. Put in the eggs and flour alternately, stirring
+all the time. Stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at the
+last. When the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. Butter an
+earthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it.
+Bake it in a moderate oven an hour or more, according to its thickness,
+or you may bake it in small cakes or little tins.
+
+
+SHREWSBURY CAKES.
+
+    And here each season do _those cakes_ abide,
+    Whose honored names the inventive city own,
+    Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon and a nutmeg grated, into
+three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose-water to three
+eggs well beaten; mix these with the flour, &c.; then pour into it as
+much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out.
+
+Stir it well, and roll thin; cut it into such shapes as you like. Bake
+on tins.
+
+
+HONEY-CAKE.
+
+    In vain the circled loaves attempt to lie
+    Concealed in flaskets from my curious eye;
+    In vain the cheeses, offspring of the pail,
+    Or _honeyed cakes_, which gods themselves regale.
+                    PARNELL.
+
+One pound and a half of dried sifted flour, three quarters of a pound of
+honey, half a pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound
+of citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut small, of powdered
+ginger and cinnamon, three quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with the
+honey, and mix in the other ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut it
+into small cakes of any form.
+
+
+NAPLES BISCUITS.
+
+    Though I've consulted Holinshed and Stow,
+    I find it very difficult to know
+    Who, to refresh the attendants to a grave,
+    Burnt claret first or _Naples biscuit_ gave.
+                    KING.
+
+Put three quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound of powdered
+sugar; sift both together three times; then add six eggs beaten well,
+and a spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is nearly hot, bake them.
+
+
+GINGERBREAD.
+
+    Whence oft with sugared cates she doth 'em greet,
+    And _gingerbread_, if rare, now certes doubly sweet.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg strained; mix four
+ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace,
+allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce; beat all as fine as
+possible; melt one pound of butter, and mix with the above: add as much
+flour as will knead it into a pretty stiff paste; roll it out, and cut
+it in cakes.
+
+
+SPONGE CAKE.
+
+    On _cake_ luxuriously I dine,
+    And drink the fragrance of the vine,
+    Studious of elegance and ease,
+    Myself alone I seek to please.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take the juice and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of
+finely pounded loaf sugar, the same of dried and sifted flour; then,
+beat the yolks of ten eggs; add the sugar by degrees, and beat it till
+it will stand when dropped from the spoon; put in at separate times the
+two other eggs, yolks, and whites; whisk the ten whites for eight
+minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and when quite stiff, take as much
+as the whisk will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, which must
+be beaten all the time; mix in lightly all the flour and grated peel,
+and pour it gradually over the whites; stir it together, and bake it in
+a large buttered tin or small ones; do not more than half fill them.
+
+
+SUGAR BISCUITS.
+
+    This happy hour elapsed and gone,
+    The time of drinking tea comes on.
+    The kettle filled, the water boiled,
+    The cream provided, the _biscuits_ piled.
+    And lamp prepared; I straight engage
+    The Lilliputian equipage
+    Of dishes, sauces, spoons, and tongs,
+    And all the et ceteras which thereto belongs.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+The weight of eight eggs in finely pounded loaf sugar, and of four in
+dried flour; beat separately the whites and yolks; with the yolks beat
+the sugar for half an hour; then add the whites and the flour, and a
+little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake them as
+French biscuits.
+
+
+DERBY CAKE.
+
+    Some bring a capon, some _Derby cake_,
+    Some nuts, some apples, some that think they make
+    The better cheesecakes, bring them.
+
+Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
+flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one
+egg; mix all together with half pint of milk; roll it out thin, and cut
+it into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, and
+put them into a middling heated oven for about ten minutes.
+
+
+CRACKNELS.
+
+    However, you shall home with me tonight,
+    Forget your cares, and revel in delight;
+    I have in store a pint or two of wine,
+    Some _cracknels_, and the remnant of a chine.
+                    SWIFT.
+
+Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them to a fine paste,
+adding to them by degrees six eggs, when thoroughly pounded; pour on
+them a pound of powdered sugar, the same of butter, and the rinds of two
+lemons grated; beat up these ingredients in the mortar; put a pound of
+flour on a slab, and having poured the almond paste upon it, knead them
+together till they are well incorporated; roll it out, and cut the
+cracknels into such forms as you think proper; rub them with yolk of
+egg, and strew over them powdered sugar or cinnamon; then lay them on a
+buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking great care they
+do not burn.
+
+
+CHEESECAKES.
+
+    Treat here, ye shepherds blithe! your damsels sweet,
+    For pies and _cheesecakes_ are for damsels meet.
+                    GAY.
+
+Put two quarts of new milk into a stewpan; set it near the fire, and
+stir in two tablespoonfuls of rennet; let it stand till it is set (this
+will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it
+remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd
+into a cullender to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound
+it quite smooth; then add four ounces of powdered sugar, and three
+ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting
+pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together; beat the
+yolks of four eggs in a basin with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel,
+and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants
+washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins ready
+lined with puff paste, about a quarter of an inch thick; notch them all
+round the edge, and fill each with the curd.
+
+Bake them twenty minutes.
+
+
+BRIDE CAKE.
+
+    The bridal came; great the feast,
+    And good the _bride cake_ and the priest.
+                    SMART.
+
+Take four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded and
+sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity of
+nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and pick four
+pounds of currants, and dry them before the fire; blanch a pound of
+sweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a
+pound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, and half pint of
+brandy; first work the butter to a cream; then beat in your sugar a
+quarter of an hour; beat the white of your eggs to a very strong froth;
+mix them with your sugar and butter; beat the yolks half an hour at
+least, and mix them with your cake; then put in your flour, mace, and
+nutmeg; keep beating it till your oven is ready; put in your brandy;
+beat the currants and almonds lightly in; tie three sheets of paper
+round the bottoms of your hoops, to keep it from running out; rub it
+well with butter; put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers,
+with cake between every layer; after it is risen and colored, cover it
+with paper.
+
+It takes three hours baking.
+
+
+KISSES.
+
+    "I never give a _kiss_," says Prue,
+      "To naughty man, for I abhor it."
+    She will not give a _kiss_, 'tis true,
+      She'll take one, though, and thank you for it.
+                    FROM THE FRENCH.
+
+One pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted, the whites of
+four eggs, twelve drops of essence of lemon, a teacup of currant jelly.
+Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat in
+gradually the sugar, a teaspoonful at a time. Add the essence of lemon,
+and beat the whole very hard. Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom of
+a square tin pan. Drop on it at equal distances a small teaspoonful of
+currant jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of eggs
+and sugar on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on the
+mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a round
+smooth shape. Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored,
+they are done. Then take them out, and place two bottoms together. Lay
+them lightly on a sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two
+bottoms stick fast together, so as to form one oval or ball.
+
+
+SWEET MACAROONS.
+
+    Where _cakes_ luxuriant pile the spacious dish,
+      And purple nectar glads the festive hour,
+    The guest, without a want, without a wish,
+      Can yield no room to music's soothing power.
+                    JOHNSON.
+
+Blanch a pound of sweet almonds; throw them into cold water for a few
+minutes; lay them in a napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-four
+hours; at the end of that time, pound them, a handful at a time, adding
+occasionally some white of egg, till the whole is reduced to a fine
+paste; then take two pounds of the best lump sugar; pound and sift it;
+then put it to the almonds with the grated rinds of two lemons; beat
+these ingredients together in the mortar, adding, one at a time, as many
+eggs as you find necessary to moisten the paste, which should be thin,
+but not too much so, as in that case it would run; your paste being
+ready, take out a little in a spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets of
+white paper, either round or oval, as you please; lay them at least an
+inch apart, because they spread in baking, and, if put nearer, would
+touch.
+
+The whole of your paste being used, place the sheets of paper on tins in
+a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour.
+
+This kind of cake requires great care.
+
+
+SYLLABUB.
+
+    Mountown! the Muses' most delicious theme,
+    O, may thy codlins ever swim in cream!
+    The rasp and strawberries in Bordeaux drown,
+    To add a redder tincture to their own!
+    Thy white wine, sugar, milk, together club,
+    To make that gentle viand--_syllabub_!
+                    KING.
+
+    Not all thy plate, how formed soe'er it be,
+    Can please my palate like a bowl of thee.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+In a large china bowl put a pint of port and a pint of sherry, or other
+white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full; in twenty minutes cover
+it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg; put pounded
+cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. It is very good without the nonpareil
+comfits.
+
+
+BEER OR ALE.
+
+    O, Peggy, Peggy! when thou goest to brew,
+    Consider well what you're about to do;
+    Be very wise, very sedately think
+    That what you're now going to make is _drink_;
+    Consider who must drink that drink, and then
+    What 'tis to have the praise of _honest_ men;
+    For surely, Peggy, while that drink does last,
+    'Tis Peggy will be _toasted or disgraced_.
+    Then if thy _ale_ in glass thou wouldst confine,
+    To make its sparkling rays in beauty shine,
+    Let thy clean bottle be entirely dry,
+    Lest a white substance to the surface fly,
+    And floating there disturb the curious eye;
+    But this great maxim must be understood,
+    "_Be sure, nay very sure, thy cork be good_."
+    Then future ages shall of Peggy tell,
+    That nymph that _brewed and bottled ale so well_!
+                    KING.
+
+Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for
+either, pour the whole quantity of water, hot, but not boiling, on at
+once, and let it infuse three hours, close covered; mash it in the first
+half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the
+hops, previously infused in water; for beer, three quarters of a pound
+to a bushel; if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort, two
+hours, from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful; then add three
+quarts of yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when
+ready next day; but, if possible, put together the same night. Sun, as
+usual. Cover the bunghole with paper, when the beer has done working;
+and when it is to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops,
+dried before the fire; put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up.
+
+Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be
+drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be
+brewed in the beginning of March. Great care must be taken that bottles
+are perfectly prepared, and _the corks are of the best sort_.
+
+The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the vent-peg be
+never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the last. Allow two
+gallons of water, at first, for waste.
+
+After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half
+for the twelve bushels; and a hogshead of water, if eight were brewed.
+Mash, and let stand; and then boil, &c.
+
+
+ORIGIN OF MINT JULEPS.
+
+    'Tis said that the gods, on Olympus of old,
+      (And who the bright legend profanes with a doubt!)
+    One night, 'mid their revels, by Bacchus were told,
+      That his last butt of nectar had somehow run out.
+
+    But determined to send round the goblet once more,
+      They sued to the fairer mortals for aid
+    In composing a draught, which till drinking were o'er,
+      Should cast every wine ever drank in the shade.
+
+    Grave Ceres herself blithely yielded her corn,
+      And the spirit that lives in each amber-hued grain,
+    And which first had its birth from the dews of the morn,
+      Was taught to steal out in bright dew-drops again.
+
+    Pomona, whose choicest of fruits on the board
+      Were scattered profusely, in every one's reach,
+    When called on a tribute to cull from the hoard,
+      Express'd the mild juice of the delicate peach.
+
+    The liquids were mingled, while Venus looked on,
+      With glances so fraught with sweet magical power,
+    That the honey of Hybla, e'en when they were gone,
+      Has never been missed in the draught from that hour.
+
+    Flora then from her bosom of fragrancy shook,
+      And with roseate fingers pressed down in the bowl,
+    All dripping and fresh as it came from the brook,
+      The _herb_ whose aroma should flavor the whole.
+
+    The draught was delicious, each god did exclaim,
+      Though something yet wanting they all did bewail;
+    But _juleps_ the drink of immortals became,
+      When Jove himself added a handful of hail.
+                    HOFFMAN.
+
+
+PUNCH.
+
+    Four elements, joined in
+      An emulous strife,
+    Fashion the world, and
+      Constitute life.
+
+    From the sharp citron
+      The starry juice pour;
+    Acid to life is
+      The innermost core.
+
+    Now, let the sugar
+      The bitter one meet;
+    Still be life's bitter
+      Tamed down with the sweet!
+
+    Let the bright water
+      Flow into the bowl;
+    Water, the calm one,
+      Embraces the whole.
+
+    Drops from the spirit
+      Pour quick'ning within,
+    Life but its life from
+      The spirit can win.
+
+    Haste, while it gloweth,
+      Your vessels to bring;
+    The wave has but virtue
+      Drunk hot from the spring.
+                    TRANSLATED FROM SCHILLER.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  A la Braise, Beef, 37
+  Artichokes, 75
+  Asparagus, 80
+  Apple Dumplings, 106
+  Apple Pudding, 100
+  Almond Creams, 111
+  Ale, 133
+
+  Broth, Chicken, 24
+  Boiled Salmon, 29
+  Beef, Roast, 36
+  Beef, Baked with Potatoes, 38
+  Beef, Ragout, 39
+  Beef, Kidneys, 39
+  Broiled Beefsteaks, 40
+  Beef, Salt, 42
+  Birds, Potted, 58
+  Beans, Lima, 75
+  Batter Pudding, 105
+  Butter, 115
+  Bread, 112
+  Bride Cake, 128
+  Biscuits, Naples, 123
+  Biscuits, Sugar, 125
+  Buckwheat Cakes, 117
+  Beer, 133
+
+  Calf's Liver, Roasted, 44
+  Calf's Head, Surprised, 45
+  Calf's Head, Roasted, 46
+  Capon, 51
+  Chicken Croquettes, 51
+  Carrots, 81
+  Cranberry Sauce, 70
+  Caper Sauce, 70
+  Cabbage, Pickled, 85
+  Cocoanut Pudding, 100
+  Charlotte des Pommes, 104
+  Custards or Creams, 111
+  Custards, Boiled, 110
+  Cottage Cheese, 116
+  Cheesecakes, 127
+  Cracknels, 126
+
+  Derby Cakes, 126
+
+  Eggs, To Poach, 91
+  Eggs, Boiled, 92
+  Eggs and Bread, 93
+  Eggs, Fried, 93
+  Eve's Pudding, 104
+
+  Fish White, To Stew, 25
+  Fish White, Another Way to Stew, 26
+  Fish Brown, To Stew, 27
+  Forcemeat Balls, 60
+  Fowl à la Hollandaise, 49
+  Fruit Pies, 96
+  Fritters, 107
+  Fritters, Sweetmeat, 106
+
+  Gingerbread, Lafayette, 121
+  Gingerbread, 124
+
+  Hams, To Cure, 52
+  Ham Pies, 53
+  Hare, Roasted, 54
+  Herbs, 82
+  Hasty Pudding, 101
+  Honey Cake, 123
+
+  Ice Cream, 109
+  Indian and Rye Bread, 114
+
+  Jelly, Currant, 87
+  Jelly, Cherry, 89
+  Jelly, Apple, 88
+  Jelly, Calves' feet, 89
+  Johnny Cakes, 118
+
+  Ketchup, Mushroom, 65
+  Kisses, 129
+
+  Lobster, Boiled, 30
+  Larks, 58
+  Leeks, 81
+
+  Mutton, Leg of, 52
+  Macaroni Gratin, 63
+  Mint Sauce, 69
+  Mushrooms, To Stew, 64
+  Mangoes, 84
+  Mince Pies, 98
+  Macaroons, Sweet, 130
+  Muffins, 118
+  Mint Juleps, Origin of, 135
+
+  Naples Biscuit, 123
+
+  Oatmeal Pudding, 103
+  Oysters, 31
+  Oysters, Fried, 31
+  Oysters, Stewed, 32
+  Oysters, Scalloped, 33
+  Oyster Loaves, 33
+  Oyster Pattie, 62
+  Ortolans, To Roast, 56
+  Onion Sauce, 74
+  Omelet, 91
+  Omelette, Soufflé, 94
+  Orange Custards, 110
+
+  Perch with Wine, 27
+  Patties for Fried Bread, 62
+  Pheasants, To Roast, 56
+  Potatoes, 76
+  Peas, 78
+  Pineapple Preserve, 90
+  Puff Paste, 95
+  Pyramid Paste, 96
+  Plum Pudding, 99
+  Plum Cake, 120
+  Pancakes, 119
+  Punch, 137
+
+  Roasted Sturgeon, 28
+  Rabbits, Fricasseed, 54
+  Rice, 79
+  Rye Bread, 114
+
+  Soup, Turtle, 21
+  Scotch Haggis, 41
+  Scotch Collops, 44
+  Salmis of Wild Duck, 47
+  Stewed Duck and Peas, 48
+  Salad, To Dress, 73
+  Spinach, 79
+  Sponge Cake, 124
+  Superlative Sauce, 68
+  Syllabub, 132
+  Sugar, To Clarify, 86
+  Suet Pudding, 103
+  Shrewsbury Cakes, 122
+
+  Tongues, To Pickle, for Boiling, 43
+  Truffles, 63
+  Turkey, Boiled, 50
+  Turkey, Devilled, 50
+  Turnips, 79
+
+  Venison, 35
+  Venison, Pasty, 36
+  Veal, Stewed Fillet, 45
+  Veal, Stuffing for, 60
+  Vol au Vent, 61
+  Vegetables, 72
+
+  Woodcocks, 57
+  Whipped Cream, 109
+
+  Yorkshire Pudding, 102
+  Yeast, 112
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+
+  The following typographical errors have been fixed:
+
+  Page    Error
+  44      stew the liver changed to sew the liver
+  Footnote 56-*  leur foie.' changed to leur foie."
+  74      KING changed to KING.
+  77      uncover the soucepan changed to uncover the saucepan
+  126     to night changed to tonight
+
+  Inconsistently spelled words
+
+  Cawthorn / Cawthorne
+  fryingpan / frying-pan
+  lemon juice / lemon-juice
+  patés / pâtés
+  peppercorns / pepper-corns
+  stewpan / stew-pan
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
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+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Poetical Cook-book, by Maria J. Moss.
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Poetical Cook-Book
+
+Author: Maria J. Moss
+
+Release Date: May 28, 2008 [EBook #25631]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POETICAL COOK-BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain material produced by
+Microsoft for their Live Search Books site.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="center"><b>Transcriber&rsquo;s&nbsp;Note</b></p>
+
+<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of these changes
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of inconsistently spelled and
+hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii"><br />[ii]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 231px;">
+<img src="images/illus-002-1.png" width="231" height="46" alt="Decorative" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="poem" style="margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em;"><span class="smcap">We</span> may live without poetry, music, and art;<br />
+We may live without conscience and live without heart;<br />
+We may live without friends; we may live without books;<br />
+But civilized man cannot live without <em>cooks</em>.<br />
+He may live without books&mdash;what is knowledge but grieving?<br />
+He may live without hope&mdash;what is hope but deceiving?<br />
+He may live without love&mdash;what is passion but pining?<br />
+But where is the man who can live without <em>dining</em>?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Owen Meredith&#8217;s &#8220;Lucile.&#8221;</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 132px;">
+<img src="images/illus-002-2.png" width="132" height="121" alt="Decorative" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1>A<br />
+POETICAL COOK-BOOK.</h1>
+
+<p class="titlepage">BY</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 89px;">
+<img src="images/illus-003-1.png" width="89" height="127" alt="MJM" title="MJM" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="poem" style="margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em;">&#8220;<span class="smcap">I request</span> you will prepare<br />
+To your own taste the bill of fare;<br />
+At present, if to judge I&#8217;m able,<br />
+The finest works are of the table.<br />
+I should prefer the cook just now<br />
+To Rubens or to Gerard Dow.&#8221;</p>
+
+
+<p class="titlepage">PHILADELPHIA:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 127px; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em;">
+<img src="images/illus-003-2.png" width="127" height="129" alt="Colophon" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="titlepage">CAXTON PRESS OF C. SHERMAN, SON &amp; CO.<br />
+1864.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 4em;">Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864,<br />
+<br />
+BY MARIA J. MOSS,<br />
+<br />
+In the Clerk&#8217;s Office of the District Court of the United States for the<br />
+Eastern District of Pennsylvania.</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="DEDICATION" id="DEDICATION"></a>DEDICATION.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="poem">&#8220;What&#8217;s under this cover?<br />
+<span class="i2">For cookery&#8217;s a secret.&#8221;&mdash;<span class="smcap">Moore.</span></span></p>
+
+<p>When I wrote the following pages, some years back at Oak Lodge, as a
+pastime, I did not think it would be of service to my fellow-creatures,
+for our suffering soldiers, the sick, wounded, and needy, who have so
+nobly fought our country&#8217;s cause, to maintain the flag of our great
+Republic, and to prove among Nations that a Free Republic is not a myth.
+With these few words I dedicate this book to the <span class="smcap">Sanitary Fair</span> to be
+held in Philadelphia, June, 1864.</p>
+
+<p>March, 1864.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="poem" style="margin-top: 4em;"><span class="smcap">Through</span> tomes of fable and of dream<br />
+I sought an eligible theme;<br />
+But none I found, or found them shared<br />
+Already by some happier bard,<br />
+Till settling on the current year<br />
+I found the far-sought treasure near.<br />
+A theme for poetry, you see&mdash;<br />
+A theme t&#8217; ennoble even me,<br />
+In memorable forty-three.<br />
+Oh, Dick! you may talk of your writing and reading,<br />
+Your logic and Greek, but there is nothing like feeding.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Upon singing and cookery, Bobby, of course,<br />
+Standing up for the latter Fine Art in full force.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Are these the <em>choice dishes</em> the Doctor has sent us?<br />
+Heaven sends us good meats, but the Devil sends cooks.<br />
+That my life, like the German, may be<br />
+&#8220;Du lit a la table, de la table au lit.&#8221;&mdash;<span class="smcap">Moore.</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="TO_THE_READER" id="TO_THE_READER"></a>TO THE READER.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="smcap">Though</span> cooks are often men of pregnant wit,<br />
+Through niceness of their subject few have writ.<br />
+&#8217;Tis a sage question, if the art of cooks<br />
+Is lodg&#8217;d by nature or attain&#8217;d by books?<br />
+That man will never frame a noble treat,<br />
+Whose whole dependence lies in some <em>receipt</em>.<br />
+Then by pure nature everything is spoil&#8217;d,&mdash;<br />
+She knows no more than stew&#8217;d, bak&#8217;d, roast, and boil&#8217;d.<br />
+When art and nature join, the effect will be,<br />
+Some nice <em>ragout</em>, or <em>charming fricasee</em>.<br />
+What earth and waters breed, or air inspires,<br />
+Man for his palate fits by torturing fires.<br />
+But, though my edge be not too nicely set,<br />
+Yet I another&#8217;s appetite may whet;<br />
+May teach him when to buy, when season&#8217;s pass&#8217;d,<br />
+What&#8217;s stale, what choice, what plentiful, what waste,<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span>And lead him through the various maze of taste.<br />
+The fundamental principle of all<br />
+Is what ingenious cooks the <em>relish</em> call;<br />
+For when the market sends in loads of food,<br />
+They all are tasteless till <em>that</em> makes them good.<br />
+Besides, &#8217;tis no ignoble piece of care,<br />
+To know for whom it is you would prepare.<br />
+You&#8217;d please a friend, or reconcile a brother,<br />
+A testy father, or a haughty mother;<br />
+Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire,<br />
+Or else some smiles from court you would desire;<br />
+Or would, perhaps, some hasty supper give,<br />
+To show the splendid state in which you live.<br />
+Pursuant to that interest you propose,<br />
+Must all your wines and all your meat be chose.<br />
+Tables should be like pictures to the sight,<br />
+Some dishes cast in shade, some spread in light;<br />
+Some at a distance brighten, some near hand,<br />
+Where ease may all their delicace command;<br />
+Some should be moved when broken, others last<br />
+Through the whole treat, incentive to the taste.<br />
+Locket, by many labors feeble grown,<br />
+Up from the kitchen call&#8217;d his eldest son;<br />
+Though wise thyself (says he), though taught by me,<br />
+Yet fix this sentence in thy memory:<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span>There are some certain things that don&#8217;t excel,<br />
+And yet we say are tolerably well.<br />
+There&#8217;s many worthy men a lawyer prize,<br />
+Whom they distinguish as of middle size,<br />
+For pleading well at bar or turning books;<br />
+But this is not, my son, the fate of cooks,<br />
+From whose mysterious art true pleasure springs,<br />
+To stall of garters, and to throne of kings.<br />
+A simple scene, a disobliging song,<br />
+Which no way to the main design belong,<br />
+Or were they absent never would be miss&#8217;d,<br />
+Have made a well-wrought comedy be hiss&#8217;d;<br />
+So in a feast, no intermediate fault<br />
+Will be allow&#8217;d; but if not best, &#8217;tis nought.<br />
+If you, perhaps, would try some dish unknown,<br />
+Which more peculiarly you&#8217;d make your own,<br />
+Like ancient sailors, still regard the coast,&mdash;<br />
+By venturing out too far you may be lost.<br />
+By roasting that which your forefathers boil&#8217;d,<br />
+And broiling what they roasted, much is spoil&#8217;d.<br />
+That cook to American palates is complete,<br />
+Whose savory hand gives turn to common meat.<br />
+Far from your parlor have your kitchen placed,<br />
+Dainties may in their working be disgraced.<br />
+In private draw your poultry, clean your tripe,<br />
+And from your eels their slimy substance wipe.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span>Let cruel offices be done by night,<br />
+For they who like the thing abhor the sight.<br />
+&#8217;Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please;<br />
+A kitchen will admit of no disease.<br />
+Were Horace, that great master, now alive,<br />
+A feast with wit and judgment he&#8217;d contrive,<br />
+As thus: Supposing that you would rehearse<br />
+A labor&#8217;d work, and every dish a verse,<br />
+He&#8217;d say, &#8220;Mend this and t&#8217;other line and this.&#8221;<br />
+If after trial it were still amiss,<br />
+He&#8217;d bid you give it a new turn of face,<br />
+Or set some dish more curious in its place.<br />
+If you persist, he would not strive to move<br />
+A passion so delightful as self-love.<br />
+Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill,<br />
+Or in a prudent mixture show their skill.<br />
+Clog not your constant meals; for dishes few<br />
+Increase the appetite when choice and new.<br />
+E&#8217;en they who will extravagance profess,<br />
+Have still an inward hatred for excess.<br />
+Meat forced too much, untouch&#8217;d at table lies;<br />
+Few care for carving trifles in disguise,<br />
+Or that fantastic dish some call <em>surprise</em>.<br />
+When pleasures to the eye and palate meet,<br />
+That cook has render&#8217;d his great work complete;<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span>His glory far, like <em>sirloin knighthood</em><a name="FNanchor_XI-1_1" id="FNanchor_XI-1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_XI-1_1" class="fnanchor">xi-1</a> flies<br />
+Immortal made, as <em>Kit-cat</em> by his pies.<br />
+Next, let discretion moderate your cost,<br />
+And when you treat, three courses be the most.<br />
+Let never fresh machines your pastry try,<br />
+Unless grandees or magistrates are by,<br />
+Then you may put <em>a dwarf into a pie</em>.<a name="FNanchor_XI-2_2" id="FNanchor_XI-2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_XI-2_2" class="fnanchor">xi-2</a><br />
+Crowd not your table; let your number be<br />
+Not more than seven, and never less than three.<br />
+&#8217;Tis the <em>dessert</em> that graces all the feast,<br />
+For an ill end disparages the rest.<br />
+A thousand things well done, and one forgot,<br />
+Defaces obligation by that blot.<br />
+Make your transparent sweetmeats truly nice<br />
+With Indian sugar and Arabian spice.<br />
+And let your various creams encircled be<br />
+With swelling fruit just ravish&#8217;d from the tree.<br />
+The feast now done, discourses are renewed,<br />
+And witty arguments with mirth pursued;<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span>The cheerful master, &#8217;midst his jovial friends,<br />
+His glass to their best wishes recommends.<br />
+The grace cup follows: To the President&#8217;s health<br />
+And to the country; Plenty, Peace, and Wealth!<br />
+Performing, then, the piety of grace,<br />
+Each man that pleases reassumes his place;<br />
+While at his gate, from such abundant store,<br />
+He showers his godlike blessings on the poor.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 162px; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em;">
+<img src="images/illus-012.png" width="162" height="215" alt="Decorative" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_XI-1_1" id="Footnote_XI-1_1"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_XI-1_1"><span class="label">xi-1</span></a> Charles I, dining one day off of a loin of beef, was so
+much pleased with it, knighted it.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_XI-2_2" id="Footnote_XI-2_2"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_XI-2_2"><span class="label">xi-2</span></a> In the reign of Charles I, Jeffry Hudson (then seven or
+eight years old, and but eighteen inches in height) was served up to
+table in a cold pie at the Duke of Buckingham&#8217;s, and as soon as he made
+his appearance was presented to the Queen.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 4em;">&#8220;Despise not my good counsel.&#8221;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 5em; border: solid black 1px; margin-top: 0em; " />
+
+<h2 style="font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 2em;"><a name="MISCELLANEOUS_OBSERVATIONS" id="MISCELLANEOUS_OBSERVATIONS"></a>MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS<br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 50%;">FOR THE USE OF THE</span><br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 80%;">MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and
+good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior, and,
+consequently, that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste
+may be avoided.</p>
+
+<p>Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct and
+propriety of female arrangement, as to the knowledge and activity of the
+father.</p>
+
+<p>All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness,&mdash;sugars of
+different qualities should be broken; currants washed, picked and dry in
+a jar; spice pounded, &amp;c. Every article should be kept in that place
+best suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided. Vegetables<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span>
+will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded. Dried meats,
+hams, &amp;c., the same. All sorts of seeds for puddings, rice, &amp;c., should
+be close-covered, to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in a
+cool, perfectly dry room, and the bag being tied should be changed
+upside down and back every week, and well shaken. Carrots, parsnips, and
+beet-roots should be kept in sand for winter use, and neither they nor
+potatoes be cleared from the earth. Store onions preserve best hung up
+in a dry room. Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a
+musty taste. Tarragon gives the flavor of French cookery, and in high
+gravies should be added only a short time before serving.</p>
+
+<p>Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when
+herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent.</p>
+
+<p>Celery seeds give the flavor of the plant to soups. Parsley should be
+cut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very cool oven; it
+preserves its flavor and color, and is very useful in winter. Artichoke
+bottoms, which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper bags, and
+truffles, lemon-peel, &amp;c., in a very dry place, ticketed.</p>
+
+<p>Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air: where the former
+are much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock-jar, to
+prevent frequent opening.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span> be pared first, to
+preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and, when squeezed, the
+pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating.</p>
+
+<p>If for boiling any liquid, the first way is best. When whites of eggs
+are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to have pudding,
+custards, &amp;c., to employ the yolks also.</p>
+
+<p>Gravies or soups put by, should be daily changed into fresh scalded
+pans.</p>
+
+<p>If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &amp;c., be suffered to boil over,
+the strength is lost.</p>
+
+<p>The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for the
+collared things, &amp;c., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give
+an unpleasant flavor when next used.</p>
+
+<p>Hard water spoils the color of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash or salt
+of wormwood will prevent that effect.</p>
+
+<p>When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton come in, part of the suet
+may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will baste
+everything as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchen
+pies nothing else should be used.</p>
+
+<p>Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in cold
+water two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced;
+when put into hot water,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</a></span> or to the fire until thawed, no heat will
+dress them properly.</p>
+
+<p>Meat should be well examined when it comes in, in warm weather. In the
+height of the summer it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be
+salted lie an hour in cold water; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have
+ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handful
+over it besides. Turn it every day and rub the pickle in, which will
+make it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired to
+be very much corned, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, having rubbed it
+previously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit for
+table the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when the
+water boils.</p>
+
+<p>If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or three
+days before it be salted.</p>
+
+<p>The water in which meat has been boiled makes an excellent soup for the
+poor, when vegetables, oatmeal, or peas are added, and should not be
+cleared from the fat. Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine
+peas soup, and should be boiled with the peas the day before eaten, that
+the fat may be removed. The mistress of the house will find many great
+advantages in visiting her larder daily before she orders the bill of
+fare; she will see what things require dressing, and thereby guard
+against their being spoiled. Many articles may be re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</a></span>dressed in a
+different form from that in which they are first served, an improve the
+appearance of the table without increasing the expense.</p>
+
+<p>In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cutting
+out most advantageously, and affording most nourishment.</p>
+
+<p>Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price;
+but having more solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice,
+however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed as
+palatably, and being cheaper ought to be bought in turn; and when
+weighed with the prime pieces, the price of the latter is reduced.</p>
+
+<p>In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be taken
+out, being apt to taint, as likewise the kernels of beef.</p>
+
+<p>Rumps and aitch bones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers
+give, and that part always taints: avoid purchasing such.</p>
+
+<p>The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and after soaking and
+bruising may be added to give richness to gravies and soups, and they
+are particularly nourishing for the sick.</p>
+
+<p>Calves&#8217; tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed with
+the brains, which may be served without.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</a></span>Some people like neats&#8217; tongues cured with the root, in which case they
+look much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must be
+cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking away
+the fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, and
+extremely well cleaned before it be dressed; and the tongue laid in salt
+for a night and day before pickled.</p>
+
+<p>Great attention is requisite in salting meat, and in the country, where
+great quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef and
+pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain,
+before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansing
+the meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong; it should
+be turned daily, and, if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub may be used,
+and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt will
+find it well to boil up the pickle, skim, and when cold pour it over
+meat that has been sprinkled and drained. In some families great loss is
+sustained by the spoiling of meat. If meat is brought from a distance in
+warm weather, the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bring
+it early in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>Mutton will keep long, by washing with vinegar the broad end of the leg;
+if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with salt lightly,
+it will not eat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[xix]</a></span> the worse. Game is brought in when not likely to keep a
+day, in the cook&#8217;s apprehension, yet may be preserved two or three days
+if wanted, by the following method:</p>
+
+<p>If birds (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn), draw
+them, pick and take out the crop, wash them in two or three waters, and
+rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling
+water, put the birds in it, and let them remain five minutes, moving it,
+that it may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by the
+heads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks; when
+to be roasted, wash, to take off the pepper. The most delicate birds,
+even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid.</p>
+
+<p>Birds that live by suction, &amp;c., bear being high: it is probable that
+the heat might cause them to taint more, as a free passage for the
+scalding water could not be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh-water fish has often a muddy taste, to take off which, soak it in
+strong salt and water; or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald in
+the same, after extremely good cleaning and washing.</p>
+
+<p>In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities
+may be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to the
+discretion of the persons who use them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[xx]</a></span>The different taste of people requires more or less of the flavor of
+spices, garlic, butter, &amp;c., which can never be directed by general
+rules, and if the cook has not a good taste, and attention to that of
+her employers, not all the ingredients with which nature or art can
+furnish her will give an exquisite relish to her dishes.</p>
+
+<p>The proper articles should be at hand, and she must proportion them
+until the true zest be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>March, 1864.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 164px;">
+<img src="images/illus-020.png" width="164" height="193" alt="Decorative" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead">Poetical Cook-Book.</h2>
+
+<hr style="width: 5em; border: solid black 1px; margin-top: 0em; " />
+
+<h2 style="font-weight: normal;"><a name="SOUPS" id="SOUPS"></a>SOUPS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TURTLE_SOUP" id="TURTLE_SOUP"></a>TURTLE SOUP.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Sons of Apicius! say, can Europe&#8217;s seas,<br />
+Can aught the edible creation yield<br />
+Compare with <em>turtle</em>, boast of land and wave?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Grainger.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i8">And, zounds! who would grudge</span><br />
+<em>Turtle soup</em>, though it came to five guineas the bowl?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>The day before you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make the
+forcemeat; then, on the preceding evening, suspend the turtle by the two
+hind fins with a cord, and put one round the neck with a heavy weight
+attached to it to draw out the neck, that the head may be cut off with
+more ease; let the turtle hang all night, in which time the blood will
+be well drained from the body. Then, early in the morning, having your
+stoves and plenty of hot water in readiness, take the turtle, lay it on
+the table on its back, and with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> strong pointed knife cut round the
+under shell (which is the callipee),&mdash;there are joints at each end,
+which must be carefully found,&mdash;gently separating it from the callipash
+(which is the upper shell); be careful that in cutting out the gut you
+do not break the gall. When the callipee and the callipash are perfectly
+separated, take out that part of the gut that leads from the throat;
+that with the hearts put into a basin of water by themselves, the other
+interior part put away. Take the callipee, and cut off the meat which
+adheres to it in four quarters, laying it on a clean dish. Take twenty
+pounds of veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as directed for
+espagnoles, putting in the flesh of the turtle at the same time, with
+all kinds of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and a half of lean
+ham, peppercorns, salt, and a little spice, and two bay leaves, leaving
+it to stew till it take the color of espagnole; put the fins&mdash;the skin
+scalded off&mdash;and hearts in, half an hour before you fill it, with half
+water, and half beef stock, then carefully skim it; put in a bunch of
+parsley, and let it boil gently like consomm&eacute;. While the turtle is
+stewing, carefully scald the head, the callipee, and all that is soft of
+the callipash, attentively observing to take off the smallest skin that
+may remain; put them with the gut into a large pot of water to boil till
+tender; when so, take them out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> and cut them in squares, putting them in
+a basin by themselves till wanted for the soup. The next thing is the
+thickening of the soup, which must be prepared in the same manner as
+sauce tourn&eacute;e. The turtle being well done, take out the fins and hearts,
+and lay them on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass through a
+sieve into a large pan; then with a ladle take off all the fat, put it
+into a basin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small quantity at a
+time), with the thickening made the same as tourn&eacute;e; but it does not
+require to, neither must it, be one-twentieth part as thick. Set it over
+a brisk fire, and continue stirring till it boils. When it has boiled
+gently for one hour put in the callipee and callipash with the guts,
+hearts, and some of the best of the meat and head, all cut in squares,
+with the forcemeat balls and herbs, which you should have ready chopped
+and stewed in espagnole; the herbs and parsley, lemon, thyme, marjoram,
+basil, savory, and a few chopped mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p>It must be carefully attended to and skimmed, and one hour and a half
+before dinner put in a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a bottle
+of brandy, keeping it continually boiling gently, and skimming it, then
+take a basin, put a little cayenne into it, with the juice of six lemons
+squeezed through a sieve. When the dinner is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> wanted, skim the turtle,
+stir it well up, and put a little salt, if necessary; then stir the
+cayenne and lemon juice in, and ladle it into the tureen. This receipt
+will answer for a turtle between fifty and sixty pounds.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHICKEN_BROTH" id="CHICKEN_BROTH"></a>CHICKEN BROTH.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">The <em>chicken broth</em> was brought at nine;<br />
+He then arose to ham and wine,<br />
+And, with a philosophic air,<br />
+Decided on the bill of fare.</p>
+
+<p>Take the remaining parts of a chicken from which panada has been made,
+all but the rump; skin, and put them into the water it was first boiled
+in, with the addition of a little mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns,
+and simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to it a quarter of an ounce of
+sweet almond beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it a little while,
+and when cold take off the fat.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="FISH" id="FISH"></a>FISH.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_STEW_FISH_WHITE" id="TO_STEW_FISH_WHITE"></a>TO STEW FISH WHITE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">His soup scientific,&mdash;his <em>fishes</em> quite prime;<br />
+His pat&eacute;s superb, and his cutlets sublime.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Let your fish be cleaned and salted; save your melts or kows. Cut three
+onions and parsley root, boil them in a pint of water; cut your fish in
+pieces to suit; take some clever sized pieces, cut them from the bone,
+chop them fine, mix with them the melts, crumbs of bread, a little
+ginger, one egg well beaten, leeks, green parsley, all made fine; take
+some bread, and make them in small balls; lay your fish in your stewpan,
+layer of fish and layer of onions; sprinkle with ginger, pour cold water
+over to cover your fish; let it boil till done, then lay your fish
+nicely on a dish. To make the sauce, take the juice of a large lemon and
+yolk of an egg, well beaten together, teaspoonful of flour; mix it
+gradually with half a pint of the water the fish was done in, then with
+all your water put in your balls; let it boil very quick; when done
+throw the balls and gravy over your fish.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ANOTHER_WAY_TO_STEW_FISH" id="ANOTHER_WAY_TO_STEW_FISH"></a>ANOTHER WAY TO STEW FISH.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Behold, the dishes due appear!<br />
+<em>Fish</em> in the van, beef in the rear.<br />
+Ah! all the luxury of fish,<br />
+With scalding sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Boil six onions in water till tender, strain, and cut them in slices.
+Put your fish, cut in slices, in a stewpan with a quart of water, salt,
+pepper, ginger and mace to suit taste; let it boil fifteen minutes; add
+the onions, and forcemeat balls made of chopped fish, grated bread,
+chopped onion, parsley, marjoram, mace, pepper, ginger and salt, and
+five eggs beat up with a spoon into balls, and drop them into the pan of
+fish when boiling; cover close for ten minutes, take it off the fire,
+and then add six eggs with the juice of five lemons; stir the gravy very
+slowly, add chopped parsley, and let it all simmer on a slow fire,
+keeping the pan in motion until it just boils, when it must be taken off
+quickly, or the sauce will break. A little butter or sweet oil added to
+the balls is an improvement. If you meet with good success in the
+cooking of this receipt, you will often have stewed fish.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PERCH_WITH_WINE" id="PERCH_WITH_WINE"></a>PERCH WITH WINE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Here haddock, hake, and flounders are,<br />
+And eels, and <em>perch</em>, and cod.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Green.</span></p>
+
+<p>Having scalded and taken out the gills, put the perch into a stew-pan,
+with equal quantities of stock and white wine, a bay leaf, a clove of
+garlic, a bunch of parsley, and scallions, two cloves, and some salt.</p>
+
+<p>When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs of which
+mix with some butter and a little flour; beat these up, set them on the
+fire, stewing till quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ball
+of anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish them with the above
+sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_STEW_FISH_BROWN" id="TO_STEW_FISH_BROWN"></a>TO STEW FISH BROWN.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i8">Here stay thy haste,</span><br />
+And with the <em>savory fish</em> indulge thy taste.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Have your fish cleaned, the melts or kows being taken out whole; salt
+your fish, and let it lay half an hour. Cut your onions in slices, fry
+them with parsley-root, cut in long thin slices, in half a tea<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>cup of
+sweet oil, till they become a fine brown. Wash and dry your fish, cut it
+in pieces, put it in your stewpan, layer of fish and layer of browned
+onion, &amp;c. Take a quart of beer, half a pint of vinegar, quarter pound
+of sugar, two tablespoonfuls powdered ginger, mixed well together, pour
+over your fish till covered. When putting your fish in the pan, split
+the head in two, and place it at the bottom, the smaller pieces on the
+top, the rows uppermost; let them cook very quick. Take out your fish,
+lay it nicely on a dish, mix a little flour in your gravy, give it a
+boil, throw it over the fish, and let it stand to cool.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ROASTED_STURGEON" id="ROASTED_STURGEON"></a>ROASTED STURGEON.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Your betters will despise you, if they see<br />
+Things that are far surpassing your degree;<br />
+Therefore beyond your substance never treat;<br />
+&#8217;Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat;<br />
+A widow has cold pie, nurse gives you cake,<br />
+From generous merchants ham or <em>sturgeon</em> take.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take a large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small one, clean and skin it
+properly, lard it with eel and anchovies, and marinade it in a white
+wine marmalade. Fasten it to the spit and roast it,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> basting frequently
+with the marinade strained. Let the fish be a nice color, and serve with
+a pepper sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BOILED_SALMON" id="BOILED_SALMON"></a>BOILED SALMON.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Red speckled trouts, the <em>salmon&#8217;s</em> silver jole,<br />
+The jointed lobster and unscaly sole,<br />
+And luscious scallops to allure the tastes<br />
+Of rigid zealots to delicious feasts;<br />
+Wednesdays and Fridays, you&#8217;ll observe from hence,<br />
+Days when our sins were doomed to abstinence.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Put on a fish-kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmon
+you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well
+(boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils put in a
+handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish
+well washed, put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently.
+Salmon requires as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of an hour to a
+pound of meat; but practice can only perfect the cook in dressing
+salmon.</p>
+
+<p>A quarter of a salmon will take as long boiling as half a one. You must
+consider the thickness, not the weight.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span><em>Obs.</em> The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest, and if you have a
+&#8220;grand gourmand&#8221; at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin.</p>
+
+<p>Lobster sauce and rye bread should be eaten with boiled salmon.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BOILED_LOBSTER" id="BOILED_LOBSTER"></a>BOILED LOBSTER.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">But soon, like <em>lobster boil&#8217;d</em>, the morn<br />
+From black to red began to turn.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Butler.</span></p>
+
+<p>Those of the middle size are best. The male lobster is preferred to eat,
+and the female to make sauce of. Set on a pot with water, salted in
+proportion of a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water. When the
+water boils, put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to
+an hour, according to its size; wipe all the scum off it, and rub the
+shell with a little butter or sweet oil, break off the great claws,
+crack them carefully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered,
+and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and send
+the body whole.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="OYSTERS" id="OYSTERS"></a>OYSTERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">The man had sure a palate cover&#8217;d o&#8217;er<br />
+With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore<br />
+First broke the oozy <em>oyster&#8217;s</em> pearly coat,<br />
+And risk&#8217;d the living morsel down his throat.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters, and
+the time of eating them, after they are opened. Nothing, however, is
+more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater.
+Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost
+perfection must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in
+the under shell. If not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and
+spirit are lost.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FRIED_OYSTERS" id="FRIED_OYSTERS"></a>FRIED OYSTERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">You shapeless nothing, in a dish!<br />
+You, that are but almost a fish!<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cowper.</span></p>
+
+<p>The largest and finest oysters should be chosen for frying. Simmer them
+in their own liquor for a couple of minutes; take them out, and lay them
+on a cloth to drain; beard them, and then flour them, egg and breadcrumb
+them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>A much better way is to beat the yolks of eggs, and mix with the grated
+bread, a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace, and a little salt.
+Having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them
+in lard, till they are a light brown color. Take care not to do them too
+much. Serve them up hot. For grated bread, some substitute crackers
+pounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="STEWED_OYSTERS" id="STEWED_OYSTERS"></a>STEWED OYSTERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">By nerves about our palate placed,<br />
+She likewise judges of the taste.<br />
+Who would ask for her opinion<br />
+Between an <em>oyster</em> and an onion?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Donne.</span></p>
+
+<p>Stew with a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, a glass of
+white wine, one anchovy bruised, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a
+little mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let all stew gently an hour, or
+three quarters. Pick out the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter pound of
+fresh butter kneaded in a large tablespoonful of flour, and stew them
+ten or twelve minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Serve them garnished with bread sippets and cut lemon. They may be
+stewed simply in their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> own liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper, and
+grated nutmeg, and thickened with cream, flour, and butter.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="OYSTER_LOAVES" id="OYSTER_LOAVES"></a>OYSTER LOAVES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><em>&#8217;Tis no one thing</em>; it is not fruit, nor root,<br />
+Nor poorly limited with head or foot.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Donne.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, take out the crumb, fry
+them brown and crisp with clarified butter, then fry some breadcrumbs;
+stew the requisite quantity of oysters, bearded and cut in two, in their
+liquor, with a little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned with grated
+lemon-peel, powdered mace, pepper and salt; add a bit of butter, fill
+the rolls with oysters, and serve them with the fried breadcrumbs in a
+dish.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SCALLOPED_OYSTERS" id="SCALLOPED_OYSTERS"></a>SCALLOPED OYSTERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">What will not luxury taste? Earth, sea, and air,<br />
+Are daily ransack&#8217;d for the bills of fare.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes,
+take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit
+of but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>ter into a stewpan; when it is melted, add as much fine
+breadcrumbs as will dry it up; then put to it the oyster liquor, and
+give it a boil up; put the oysters into scallop shells that you have
+buttered, and strewed with breadcrumbs, then a layer of oysters, then
+breadcrumbs, and then again oysters; moisten it with the oyster liquor,
+cover them with breadcrumbs, put about half a dozen little bits of
+butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven.</p>
+
+<p>Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and other
+spices are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavor of
+the oyster.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="MEATS" id="MEATS"></a>MEATS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="VENISON" id="VENISON"></a>VENISON.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Thanks, my lord, for your <em>venison</em>; for finer or fatter<br />
+Never ranged in a forest or smoked in a platter.<br />
+The haunch was a picture for painters to study,<br />
+The fat was so white, and the lean was so ruddy.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Goldsmith.</span></p>
+
+<p>The haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quarters
+roasting. Put a coarse paste of brown flour and water, and a paper over
+that, to cover all the fat; baste it well with dripping, and keep it at
+a distance, to get hot at the bones by degrees. When near done, remove
+the covering, and baste it with butter, and froth it up before you
+serve. Gravy for it should be put in a boat, and not in the dish (unless
+there be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from two
+or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a
+gridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side; put them in a
+saucepan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour, and
+gently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to a
+pint. Season only with salt.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="VENISON_PASTY" id="VENISON_PASTY"></a>VENISON PASTY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And now that I think on&#8217;t, as I am a sinner!<br />
+We wanted this venison to make out the dinner.<br />
+What say you? a <em>pasty</em>! it shall and it must,<br />
+And my wife, little Kitty, is famous for crust.<br />
+&#8220;What the de&#8217;il, mon, a pasty!&#8221; re-echoed the Scot.<br />
+&#8220;Though splitting, I&#8217;ll still keep a corner for that.&#8221;<br />
+&#8220;We&#8217;ll all keep a corner,&#8221; the lady cried out;<br />
+&#8220;We will all keep a corner!&#8221; was echoed about.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Goldsmith.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut a neck or breast into small steaks, rub them over with a seasoning
+of sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; fry them slightly in
+butter. Line the sides and edges of a dish with puff paste, lay in the
+steaks, and add half a pint of rich gravy, made with the trimmings of
+the venison; add a glass of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon or
+teaspoonful of vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and bake it
+nearly two hours; some more gravy may be poured into the pie before
+serving it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ROAST_BEEF" id="ROAST_BEEF"></a>ROAST BEEF.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And aye a rowth, a <em>roast beef</em> and claret:<br />
+<span class="i2">Syne wha wad starve!</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Burns.</span></p>
+
+<p>The noble sirloin of about fifteen pounds will require to be before the
+fire about three and a half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> to four hours; take care to spit it evenly,
+that it may not be heavier on one side than on the other; put a little
+clean dripping into the dripping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over to
+preserve the fat); baste it well as soon as it is put down, and every
+quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour;
+then take off the paper and make some gravy for it. Stir the fire, and
+make it clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it,
+baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes
+longer till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, and serve
+it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BEEF_A_LA_BRAISE" id="BEEF_A_LA_BRAISE"></a>BEEF &Agrave; LA BRAISE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">In short, dear, &#8220;a Dandy&#8221; describes what I mean,<br />
+And Bob&#8217;s far the best of the gems I have seen,<br />
+But just knows the names of French dishes and cooks,<br />
+As dear Pa knows the titles and authors of books;<br />
+Whose names, think how quick! he already knows pat,<br />
+<em>A la braise</em>, petit pat&eacute;s, and&mdash;what d&#8217;ye call that<br />
+They inflict on potatoes? Oh! ma&icirc;tre d&#8217;hotel.<br />
+I assure you, dear Dolly, he knows them as well<br />
+As if nothing but these all his life he had eat,<br />
+Though a bit of them Bobby has never touched yet.<br />
+I can scarce tell the difference, at least as to phrase,<br />
+Between <em>beef &agrave; la Psych&eacute;</em> and <em>curls &agrave; la braise</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Bone a rump of beef, lard it very thickly with salt pork seasoned with
+pepper, salt, cloves, mace,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> and allspice, and season the beef with
+pepper and salt; put some slices of bacon into the bottom of the pan,
+with some whole black pepper, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves,
+two onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put in the
+beef, and lay over it some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak stock,
+and half a pint of white wine. Cover it closely, and let it stew between
+six and seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of part of the liquor it
+has been stewed in, strained, and thickened with a little flour and
+butter, adding some green onions cut small, and pickled mushrooms. Pour
+it over the beef.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BEEF_BAKED_WITH_POTATOES" id="BEEF_BAKED_WITH_POTATOES"></a>BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span class="i5">The funeral <em>bak&#8217;d meats</em></span><br />
+Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shakspeare.</span></p>
+
+<p>Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in a mortar with two small
+onions; moisten them with milk and an egg beaten up, add a little salt
+and pepper. Season slices of beef or mutton-chops with salt and pepper,
+and more onion, if the flavor is approved. Rub the bottom of a
+pudding-dish with butter, and put a layer of the mashed potatoes, which
+should be as thick as a batter, and then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> a layer of meat, and so on
+alternately till the dish is filled, ending with potatoes. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BEEF_RAGOUT" id="BEEF_RAGOUT"></a>BEEF RAGOUT.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Is there, then, that o&#8217;er his <em>French ragout</em>,<br />
+Looks down wi&#8217; sneering, scornful view,<br />
+<span class="i10">On sic a dinner?<br /></span>
+
+<span class="author">Burns.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it, pour
+over it a little boiling water, about a pint of small-beer, add a carrot
+or two, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a piece of
+lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew an hour, then add some
+good gravy; when the meat is tender take it out and strain the sauce;
+thicken it with a little flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a
+little ketchup, put in the meat; just simmer it up.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BEEF_KIDNEYS" id="BEEF_KIDNEYS"></a>BEEF KIDNEYS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Or one&#8217;s <em>kidney</em>,&mdash;imagine, Dick,&mdash;done with champagne.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cut
+it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine; dust it with flour. Put some
+butter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> into a stewpan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put in
+the minced kidneys. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle on
+a little salt and cayenne, and pour in a very little boiling water. Add
+a glass of champagne, or other wine, or a large teaspoonful of mushroom
+ketchup or walnut pickle; cover the pan closely, and let it stew till
+the kidney is tender. Send it to table hot, in a covered dish. It is
+eaten generally at breakfast.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BROILED_BEEFSTEAKS" id="BROILED_BEEFSTEAKS"></a>BROILED BEEFSTEAKS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><em>Time was</em>, when John Bull little difference spied<br />
+&#8217;Twixt the foe at his feet or the friend at his side;<br />
+When he found, such his humor in fighting and eating,<br />
+His foe, like <em>beefsteak</em>, the sweeter for beating.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">If it were done, when &#8217;tis done, then &#8217;twere well,<br />
+It were done quickly.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shakspeare.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore quarter. Have the
+gridiron perfectly clean, and heated over a clear quick fire, lay on the
+steaks, and with meat-tongs, keep turning them constantly, till they are
+done enough; throw a little salt over them before taking them off the
+fire. Serve as hot as possible, plain or with a made gravy and sliced<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
+onions, or rub a bit of butter on the steaks the moment of serving.
+Mutton-chops are broiled in the same manner.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SCOTCH_HAGGIS" id="SCOTCH_HAGGIS"></a>SCOTCH HAGGIS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Fair fa&#8217; your honest sonsie face,<br />
+Great chieftain o&#8217; the puddin&#8217; race;<br />
+Aboon them a&#8217; ye tak your place,<br />
+<span class="i5">Painch, tripe, or thairm,</span><br />
+Weel are ye wordy of a grace<br />
+<span class="i5">As langs my arm.</span><br />
+His knife see rustic labor dight,<br />
+An&#8217; cut you up with ready slight,<br />
+Trenching your gushing entrail bright<br />
+<span class="i5">Like onie ditch,</span><br />
+And then, O! what a glorious sight,<br />
+<span class="i5">Warm reekin&#8217; rich.</span><br />
+Ye powers wha mak mankind your care,<br />
+And dish them out their bill of fare,<br />
+Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware<br />
+<span class="i5">That jaups in luggies,</span><br />
+But if ye wish her grateful pray&#8217;r,<br />
+<span class="i5">Gie her a <em>Haggis</em>.</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Burns.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make the haggis bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liver
+very well, so as it will grate, dry the meal before the fire, mince the
+draught and a pretty large piece of beef, very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> small; grate about half
+the liver, mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these
+materials very well together with a handful or two of the dried meal;
+spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed
+spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and
+some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin (<em>i.
+e.</em> a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into the
+bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; put out all the wind
+before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put
+it in a cloth.</p>
+
+<p>If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling.</p>
+
+<p>N. B. The above is a receipt from Mrs. MacIver, a celebrated Caledonian
+professor of the culinary art, who taught and published a book of
+cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SALT_BEEF" id="SALT_BEEF"></a>SALT BEEF.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">The British fleet, which now commands the main,<br />
+Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain,<br />
+Would they take time, would they with leisure work,<br />
+With care would <em>salt their beef</em>, and cure their pork.<br />
+There is no dish, but what <em>our</em> cooks have made<br />
+And merited a charter by their trade.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make a pickle of rock salt and cold water strong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> enough to bear an egg,
+let a little salt remain in the bottom of the tub; two quarts of
+molasses and a quarter pound of saltpetre is sufficient for a cwt. of
+beef. It is fit for use in ten days. Boil the beef slowly until the
+bones come out easily, then wrap it in a towel, and put a heavy weight
+on it till cold.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_PICKLE_TONGUES_FOR_BOILING" id="TO_PICKLE_TONGUES_FOR_BOILING"></a>TO PICKLE TONGUES FOR BOILING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i3">Silence is commendable only</span><br />
+In a <em>neat&#8217;s tongue</em> dried.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shakspeare.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle some
+salt, and let it drain till next day; then for each tongue, mix a large
+spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half as
+much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every day. In a week add
+another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, a tongue will be
+ready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle daily, it will
+keep four or five weeks without being too salt. Smoke them or plainly
+dry them, if you like best. When to be dressed, boil it extremely
+tender; allow five hours, and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The
+longer kept after drying, the higher it will be; if hard, it may require
+soaking three or four hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ROASTED_CALFS_LIVER" id="ROASTED_CALFS_LIVER"></a>ROASTED CALF&#8217;S LIVER.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Pray a slice of your <em>liver</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Goldsmith.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash and wipe it, then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs
+of bread, chopped, an anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt,
+pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; <a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>sew the liver up, lard it, wrap it
+in a veal caul, and roast it. Serve with good brown gravy and currant
+jelly.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SCOTCH_COLLOPS" id="SCOTCH_COLLOPS"></a>SCOTCH COLLOPS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i2">A cook has mighty things professed;</span><br />
+Then send us but two dishes nicely dressed,&mdash;<br />
+One called <em>Scotch Collops</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over and rather round, beat
+with a rolling-pin; grate a little nutmeg over them; dip in the yolk of
+an egg, and fry them in a little butter of a fine brown; have ready,
+warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a little bit of butter
+rubbed into a little flour, to which put the yolk of an egg, two large
+spoonfuls of cream, and a little salt.</p>
+
+<p>Do not boil the sauce, but stir until of a fine thickness to serve with
+the collops.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="STEWED_FILLET_OF_VEAL" id="STEWED_FILLET_OF_VEAL"></a>STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i8">In truth, I&#8217;m confounded<br /></span>
+And bothered, my dear, &#8217;twixt that troublesome boy&#8217;s<br />
+(Bob&#8217;s) cookery language, and Madame Le Roi&#8217;s.<br />
+What with fillets of roses and <em>fillets of veal</em>,<br />
+Things garni with lace, and things garni with eel,<br />
+One&#8217;s hair and one&#8217;s cutlets both en papillote,<br />
+And a thousand more things I shall ne&#8217;er have by rote.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast and then stew it with
+two quarts of white stock, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and one of
+mushroom ketchup. Before serving strain the gravy, thicken it with
+butter rolled in flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some pickled
+mushrooms; heat it and pour it over the veal. Have ready two or three
+dozen forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cut
+lemon.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CALFS_HEAD_SURPRISED" id="CALFS_HEAD_SURPRISED"></a>CALF&#8217;S HEAD SURPRISED.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And the dish set before them,&mdash;O dish well devised!&mdash;<br />
+Was what Old Mother Glasse calls &#8220;<em>a calf&#8217;s head surprised</em>.&#8221;<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Clean and blanch a calf&#8217;s head, boil it till the bones will come out
+easily, then bone and press it between two dishes, so as to give it a
+headlong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> form; beat it with the yolks of four eggs, a little melted
+butter, pepper and salt. Divide the head when cold, and brush it all
+over with the beaten eggs, and strew over it grated bread, which is put
+over one half; a good quantity of finely minced parsley should be mixed;
+place the head upon a dish, and bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it
+with a sauce of parsley and butter, and with one of good gravy, mixed
+with the brains, which have been previously boiled, chopped, and
+seasoned with a little cayenne and salt.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CALFS_HEAD_ROASTED" id="CALFS_HEAD_ROASTED"></a>CALF&#8217;S HEAD ROASTED.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Good L&mdash;d! to see the various ways<br />
+Of dressing a calf&#8217;s head.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shenstone.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash and clean it well, parboil it, take out the bones, brains, and
+tongue; make forcemeat sufficient for the head, and some balls with
+breadcrumbs, minced suet, parsley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal
+or cold fowl; season with salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it
+with an egg beaten up; fill the head with it, which must then be sewed
+up, or fastened with skewers and tied; while roasting baste it well with
+butter; beat up the brains with a little cream, the yolk of an egg, some
+minced parsley, a little pepper and salt;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> blanch the tongue and cut it
+into slices, and fry it with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin
+slices of bacon.</p>
+
+<p>Serve the head with white or brown thickened gravy, and place the tongue
+and forcemeat balls round it. Garnish with cut lemon. It will require
+one hour and a half to roast.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SALMIS_OF_WILD_DUCK" id="SALMIS_OF_WILD_DUCK"></a>SALMIS OF WILD DUCK.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Long as, by bayonets protected, we Watties<br />
+May have our full fling at their <em>salmis</em> and pat&eacute;s.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut off the best parts of a couple of roasted wild ducks, and put the
+rest of the meat into a mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley,
+some pepper, and a bay leaf; pound all these ingredients well, and then
+put into a saucepan, with four ladlesful of stock, half a glass of white
+wine, the same of broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce these to
+half, strain them, and having laid the pieces on a dish, cover them with
+the above; keep the whole hot, not boiling, until wanted for table.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="STEWED_DUCK_AND_PEAS" id="STEWED_DUCK_AND_PEAS"></a>STEWED DUCK AND PEAS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">I give thee all my kitchen lore,<br />
+<span class="i1">Though poor the offering be;</span><br />
+I&#8217;ll tell thee how &#8217;tis cooked, before<br />
+<span class="i1">You come to dine with me.</span><br />
+The duck is truss&#8217;d from head to heels,<br />
+<span class="i1">Then stew&#8217;d with butter well,</span><br />
+And streaky bacon, which reveals<br />
+<span class="i1">A most delicious smell.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">When duck and bacon, in a mass,<br />
+<span class="i1">You in a stewpan lay,</span><br />
+A spoon around the vessel pass,<br />
+<span class="i1">And gently stir away;</span><br />
+A tablespoonful of flour bring,<br />
+<span class="i1">A quart of water plain,</span><br />
+Then in it twenty onions fling,<br />
+<span class="i1">And gently stir again.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">A bunch of parsley, and a leaf<br />
+<span class="i1">Of ever verdant bay,</span><br />
+Two cloves,&mdash;I make my language brief,&mdash;<br />
+<span class="i1">Then add your peas you may;</span><br />
+And let it simmer till it sings<br />
+<span class="i1">In a delicious strain;</span><br />
+Then take your duck, nor let the strings<br />
+<span class="i1">For trussing it remain.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>The parsley fail not to remove,<br />
+<span class="i1">Also the leaf of bay;</span><br />
+Dish up your duck,&mdash;the sauce improve<br />
+<span class="i1">In the accustom&#8217;d way,</span><br />
+With pepper, salt, and other things<br />
+<span class="i1">I need not here explain;</span><br />
+And if the dish contentment brings,<br />
+<span class="i1">You&#8217;ll dine with me again.</span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FOWL_A_LA_HOLLANDAISE" id="FOWL_A_LA_HOLLANDAISE"></a>FOWL &Agrave; LA HOLLANDAISE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Our courtier walks from dish to dish,<br />
+Tastes from his friends of <em>fowl</em> and fish,<br />
+Tells all their names, lays down the law,<br />
+&#8220;Que &ccedil;a est bon.&#8221; &#8220;Ah! goutez &ccedil;a.&#8221;<br />
+
+<span class="author">Pope.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity of minced suet, an
+onion, or a few oysters and some boiled parsley, season with pepper,
+salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg beaten up to bind it. Bone the
+breast of a good sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, cover the fowl
+with a piece of white paper buttered, and roast it half an hour; make a
+thick batter of flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and pour some
+of the batter over the fowl; as soon as it becomes dry, add more, and do
+this till it is all crusted over and a nice brown color, serve it with
+melted butter and lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BOILED_TURKEY" id="BOILED_TURKEY"></a>BOILED TURKEY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">But man, cursed man, on <em>turkeys</em> preys,<br />
+And Christmas shortens all our days.<br />
+Sometimes with oysters we combine,<br />
+Sometimes assist the savory chine.<br />
+From the low peasant to the lord,<br />
+The <em>turkey</em> smokes on every board.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make a stuffing of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, a few
+oysters, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg; put this into the crop,
+fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make it
+very white. Have ready some oyster sauce made rich with butter, a little
+cream, and a spoonful of soy, and serve over the turkey.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="DEVILLED_TURKEY" id="DEVILLED_TURKEY"></a>DEVILLED TURKEY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And something&#8217;s here with name uncivil,<br />
+For our cook christens it &#8220;<em>A Devil</em>,&#8221;<br />
+&#8220;<em>A Devil</em>, in any shape, sweet maid,<br />
+A parson fears not,&#8221; Syntax said;<br />
+&#8220;I&#8217;ll make him minced meat; &#8217;tis my trade.&#8221;</p>
+
+<p>Take cold roast turkey legs, score them well, season them with salt and
+plenty of cayenne pepper and mustard, then broil them. Serve them
+<em>hot</em>.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CAPON" id="CAPON"></a>CAPON.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">In good roast beef my landlord sticks his knife,<br />
+The <em>capon</em> fat delights his dainty wife.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take a quart of white wine, season the capon with salt, cloves, and
+whole pepper, a few shallots, and then put the capon in an earthen pan;
+you must take care it has not room to shake; it must be covered close,
+and done over a slow charcoal fire.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHICKEN_CROQUETTES" id="CHICKEN_CROQUETTES"></a>CHICKEN CROQUETTES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Gargilius, sleek, voluptuous lord,<br />
+A hundred dainties smoke upon his board;<br />
+Earth, air, and ocean ransack&#8217;d for the feast,<br />
+In masquerade of foreign olios dress&#8217;d.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Warton.</span></p>
+
+<p>Reduce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tourn&eacute;e, and add to the yolks
+of four eggs; put to this the white meat of a chicken, minced very
+small, and well mixed with the sauce; take it out, and roll it into
+balls, about the size of a walnut; roll them in breadcrumbs, giving them
+an elongated form; then beat them in some well-beaten egg; bread them
+again, and fry them of a light brown.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="LEG_OF_MUTTON" id="LEG_OF_MUTTON"></a>LEG OF MUTTON.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">But hang it, to poets, who seldom can eat,<br />
+Your very good <em>mutton&#8217;s</em> a very good treat.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Goldsmith.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm water
+for ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let it
+simmer very gently, and skim it carefully; a leg of nine pounds will
+take two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done,
+especially in very cold weather.</p>
+
+<p>The liquor the mutton is boiled in, you may convert into good soup in
+five minutes, and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a leg of mutton is
+a most economical joint.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_CURE_HAMS" id="TO_CURE_HAMS"></a>TO CURE HAMS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Or urged thereunto by the woes he endured,<br />
+The way to be <em>smoked</em>, is the way to be <em>cured</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Anonymous.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">But to the fading palate bring relief,<br />
+By the <em>Westphalian ham</em> or Belgic beef.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix an ounce of
+saltpetre with one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt,
+ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together,
+and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the pickle
+for three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento in finest
+powder, added to the above, will give still more flavor. Cover with bran
+when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; the
+latter will make it harder, and more of the flavor of Westphalia. Sew
+hams in hessings, <em>i. e.</em> coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is
+a strong fire.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="HAM_PIES" id="HAM_PIES"></a>HAM PIES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Each mortal has his pleasure; none deny<br />
+Scarsdale his bottle, Darby his <em>ham pie</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take two pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling sized pieces,
+season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or
+dressed ham, cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some
+forced or sausage meat at the top, with some stewed mushrooms, and the
+yolks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as
+with rumpsteak pie.</p>
+
+<p>N. B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops,
+and the chine bone taken away.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ROASTED_HARE" id="ROASTED_HARE"></a>ROASTED HARE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Turkey and fowl, and ham and chine,<br />
+On which the cits prefer to dine,<br />
+With partridge, too, and eke a <em>Hare</em>,<br />
+The luxuries of country fare,<br />
+She nicely cooked with bounteous care.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the skin from a hare that has been well soaked, put it on the spit,
+and rub it well with Madeira, pricking it in various places that it may
+imbibe plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a paste, and roast it.
+When done, take away the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, sprinkle
+breadcrumbs, and baste it gently with butter (still keeping it turning
+before the fire), until a crust is formed over it, and it is of a nice
+brown color; dish it over some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled in it;
+two or three cloves may be stuck into the knuckles, if you think proper.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FRICASEED_RABBITS" id="FRICASEED_RABBITS"></a>FRICASEED RABBITS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Your <em>rabbits fricaseed</em> and chicken,<br />
+With curious choice of dainty picking,<br />
+Each night got ready at the Crown,<br />
+With port and punch to wash &#8217;em down.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Lloyd.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take two fine white rabbits, and cut them in pieces; blanch them in
+boiling water, and skim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> them for one minute; stir a few trimmings of
+mushrooms in a stewpan over the fire, with a bit of butter, till it
+begins to fry, then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the flour, a
+little at a time, nearly a quart of good consomm&eacute;, which set on the
+fire, and when it boils put the rabbits in, and let them boil gently
+till done; then put them in another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till
+nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half a pint of good boiling
+cream, and when it becomes the thickness of bechamelle sauce in general,
+squeeze it through the tammy to the rabbits; make it very hot, put in a
+few mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, a little cream, and then serve it to
+table.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="BIRDS" id="BIRDS"></a>BIRDS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_ROAST_PHEASANTS" id="TO_ROAST_PHEASANTS"></a>TO ROAST PHEASANTS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Little birds fly about with the <em>true pheasant taint</em>,<br />
+And the geese are all born with the liver<a name="FNanchor_56-1_3" id="FNanchor_56-1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_56-1_3" class="fnanchor">56-*</a> complaint.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the head part, mix them with salt
+and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the other
+ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and cover
+the birds with them, then wrap them in sheets of paper well buttered,
+put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear fire.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_ROAST_ORTOLANS" id="TO_ROAST_ORTOLANS"></a>TO ROAST ORTOLANS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">With all the luxury of statesmen dine,<br />
+On daily feasts of <em>ortolans</em> and wine.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cawthorn.</span></p>
+
+<p>Put into every bird an oyster, or a little butter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> mixed with some
+finely sifted breadcrumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewer
+through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or fresh
+butter. They will be done in ten minutes. Reed birds are very fine made
+into little dumplings with a thin crust of flour and butter, and boiled
+about twenty minutes. Each must be tied in a separate cloth.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="WOODCOCKS" id="WOODCOCKS"></a>WOODCOCKS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And as for your juries&mdash;who would not set o&#8217;er them<br />
+A jury of tasters, with <em>woodcocks</em> before them?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of &#8220;haut
+gout&#8221; considered a &#8220;bonne bouche.&#8221; Truss their legs close to the body,
+and run an iron skewer through each thigh, and put them to roast before
+the fire; toast a slice of bread for each bird, lay them in the
+dripping-pan under the bird to catch the trail; baste them with butter,
+and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on
+the toast; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and send some up in
+a boat. Twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Some epicures like
+this bird very much underdone, and direct that the woodcock should be
+just introduced to the cook, for her to show it to the fire, then send
+it to table.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BIRDS_POTTED" id="BIRDS_POTTED"></a>BIRDS POTTED.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>&#8220;It tastes of the <em>bird</em>, however,&#8221; said the old woman, &#8220;and she
+cooked the <em>rail of the fence</em> on which the crow had been sitting.&#8221;</p></div>
+
+<p>When birds have come a great way, they often smell so bad that they can
+scarcely be borne from the rankness of the butter, by managing them in
+the following manner, they may be as good as ever. Set a large saucepan
+of clean water on the fire, when it boils take off the butter at the
+top, then take the fowls out one by one, throw them in the saucepan of
+water half a minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth inside and out,
+continue till they are all done; scald the pot clean, when the birds are
+quite cold, season them with mace, pepper, and salt according to taste,
+put them down close in a pot, and pour clarified butter over them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="LARKS" id="LARKS"></a>LARKS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">What say you, lads? is any spark<br />
+Among you ready for a <em>lark</em>?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When they
+are thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed, truss them; do them over
+with the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in bread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>crumbs; spit them
+on a lark spit; ten or fifteen minutes will be sufficient time to roast
+them in, before a quick fire; whilst they are roasting, baste them with
+fresh butter, and sprinkle them with breadcrumbs till they are well
+covered with them. Fry some grated bread in butter. Set it to drain
+before the fire, that it may harden; serve the crumbs in the dish under
+the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_56-1_3" id="Footnote_56-1_3"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_56-1_3"><span class="label">56-*</span></a> The process by which the liver of the unfortunate goose
+is enlarged, in order to produce that richest of all dainties, <em>the foie
+gras</em>, of which such renowned p&acirc;t&eacute;s are made at Strasbourg and Toulouse,
+is thus described in the &#8220;Cours Gastronomique:&#8221; &#8220;On deplumes l&#8217;estomac
+des oies; on attache ensuite ces animaux aux chenets d&#8217;une chemin&eacute;e, et
+on le nourrit devant le feu. La captivit&eacute; et la chaleur donnent a ces
+volatiles une maladie hepatique, qui fait gonfler <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>leur foie.&#8221;</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="MISCELLANEOUS" id="MISCELLANEOUS"></a>MISCELLANEOUS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="STUFFING_FOR_VEAL" id="STUFFING_FOR_VEAL"></a>STUFFING FOR VEAL.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Poor Roger Fowler, who&#8217;d a generous mind,<br />
+Nor would submit to have his hand confined,<br />
+But aimed at all,&mdash;yet never could excel<br />
+In anything but <em>stuffing of his veal</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Good stuffing has always been considered a chief thing in cookery. Mince
+a quarter of a pound of beef suet or marrow, the same weight of
+breadcrumbs, two drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet
+marjoram or lemon thyme, and the same of grated lemon-peel and onion
+chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt; pound thoroughly
+together with the yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it in the veal
+with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FORCEMEAT_BALLS" id="FORCEMEAT_BALLS"></a>FORCEMEAT BALLS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And own they gave him a lively notion,<br />
+What his own <em>forced meat balls</em> would be.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take an equal quantity of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred, beat
+them in a marble mortar, add<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> pepper, salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel,
+and nutmeg grated, parsley, and sweet herbs chopped fine, a little
+shallot and young onion, a few breadcrumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg,
+sufficient to work it light; roll this into balls with a little flour,
+and fry them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="VOL_AU_VENT" id="VOL_AU_VENT"></a>VOL AU VENT.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Boy, tell the cook I love all nicknackeries,<br />
+Fricasees, <em>vol au vents</em>, puffs, and gimcrackeries.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Roll off tart paste till about the eighth of an inch thick, then with a
+tin cutter made for that purpose cut out the shape (about the size of
+the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), lay it on a
+baking-plate with paper, rub the paste over with the yolk of an egg.
+Roll out good puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter,
+and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and
+press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with
+yolk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a
+light-brown color when done; take out the paste inside the centre mark,
+preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted
+fill it with a white fricasee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread,
+or any other entree you wish. Serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="OYSTER_PATTIE" id="OYSTER_PATTIE"></a>OYSTER PATTIE.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><em>De Beringhen.</em> In the next room there&#8217;s a delicious p&acirc;t&eacute;, let&#8217;s
+discuss it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Baradas.</em> Pshaw! a man filled with a sublime ambition has no time
+to discuss your p&acirc;t&eacute;s.</p>
+
+<p><em>De Beringhen.</em> Pshaw! and a man filled with as sublime a p&acirc;t&eacute; has
+no time to discuss ambition. Gad, I have the best of it.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Bulwer&#8217;s Richelieu.</p></div>
+
+<p>Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor and add them to it. Cut
+into thin slices the kidney-fat of a loin of veal; season them with
+white pepper, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the bottom
+of a pie-dish, put in the oysters and liquor, with a little more
+seasoning; put over them the marrow of two bones. Lay a border of puff
+paste around the edge of the dish, cover it with paste, and bake it
+nearly three quarters of an hour.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PATTIES_FOR_FRIED_BREAD" id="PATTIES_FOR_FRIED_BREAD"></a>PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Seducing young p&acirc;t&eacute;s, as ever could cozen<br />
+One out of one&#8217;s appetite, down by the dozen.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or round pieces, nearly
+three inches high, and cut bits<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> the same width for tops. Mark them
+neatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light-brown color in clarified
+beef-dripping or fine lard; scoop out the inside crumb; take care not to
+go too near the bottom; fill them with mince-meat prepared as for
+patties, with stewed oysters or with sausage meat; put on the tops, and
+serve them on a napkin.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MACARONI_GRATIN" id="MACARONI_GRATIN"></a>MACARONI GRATIN.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Where so ready all nature its cookery yields,<br />
+<em>Macaroni au Parmesan</em> grows in the fields.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Lay fried bread pretty closely round a dish; boil your macaroni in the
+usual way, and pour it into the dish; smooth it all over, and strew
+breadcrumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese;
+drop a little melted butter on it, and put it in the oven to brown.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TRUFFLES" id="TRUFFLES"></a>TRUFFLES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">What will not <em>Luxury taste</em>? <em>Earth</em>, sea and air<br />
+Are daily ransacked for the bill of fare.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>The truffle, like the mushroom, is a species of fungus, common in France
+and Italy; it is generally about eight to ten inches below the surface<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>
+of the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much used in
+cookery.</p>
+
+<p>Being dug out of the earth, it requires a great deal of washing and
+brushing. It loses much of its flavor when dried.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_STEW_MUSHROOMS" id="TO_STEW_MUSHROOMS"></a>TO STEW MUSHROOMS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go,<br />
+That he might taste their soups and <em>mushrooms</em> know.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take a pint of white stock; season it with salt, pepper, and a little
+lemon pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled in flour; clean and
+peel the mushrooms, sprinkle them with a very little salt, boil them for
+three minutes; put them into the gravy when it is hot, and stew them for
+fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="SAUCES" id="SAUCES"></a>SAUCES.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MUSHROOM_KETCHUP" id="MUSHROOM_KETCHUP"></a>MUSHROOM KETCHUP.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i9">If you please,<br /></span>
+I&#8217;ll taste your tempting toasted cheese,<br />
+Broiled ham, and nice <em>mushroom&#8217;d ketchup</em>.</p>
+
+<p>If you love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, after the
+following directions, and you will have a delicious relish for made
+dishes, ragouts, soup, sauces, or hashes. Mushroom gravy approaches the
+nature and flavor of made gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is
+the superlative substitute for it; in meagre soups and extempore
+gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably
+awaken the palate and encourage the appetite.</p>
+
+<p>A couple quarts of double ketchup, made according to the following
+receipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of
+time and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce as
+can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. I believe the following is
+the best way for preparing and extracting the essence of mushrooms,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> so
+as to procure and preserve their flavor for a considerable length of
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Look out for mushrooms, from the beginning of September. Take care of
+the right sort and fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps are to be preferred.
+Put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle
+them with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and some more salt on
+them, and so on, alternately, salt and mushrooms; let them remain two or
+three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms,
+and rendered them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or mash
+them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not
+longer, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day; then pour them
+into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole
+black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close,
+and set in a stewpan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours
+at least.</p>
+
+<p>Take out the jar, and pour the juice, clear from the settlings, through
+a hair sieve (without squeezing the mushrooms), into a clean stewpan;
+let it boil very gently for half an hour. Those who are for superlative
+ketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced to
+half the quantity. There are several advantages attending this
+concentration: it will keep much better, and only half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> the quantity
+required; so you can flavor sauce, &amp;c., without thinning it; neither is
+this an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part is
+evaporated. Skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; cover
+it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day; then pour it
+off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the
+bottom of the jug), through a tamis or thick flannel bag, till it is
+perfectly clear; add a tablespoonful of good brandy to each pint of
+ketchup, and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment will be deposited,
+from which the ketchup is to be quietly poured off and bottled in pints
+or half pints (which have been washed in brandy or spirits). It is best
+to keep it in such quantities as are soon used.</p>
+
+<p>Take especial care that it is closely corked and sealed down. If kept in
+a cool dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but if it be
+badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil.</p>
+
+<p>Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck
+of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again
+with a few peppercorns.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SUPERLATIVE_SAUCE" id="SUPERLATIVE_SAUCE"></a>SUPERLATIVE SAUCE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Who praises, in this <em>sauce enamor&#8217;d</em> age,<br />
+Calm, healthful temperance, like an Indian sage?<br />
+
+<span class="author">Warton.</span></p>
+
+<p>Claret or Port wine and mushroom ketchup, a pint of each; half a pint of
+walnut or other pickle liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh
+lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and sliced eschalots, the
+same; scraped horseradish, ditto; allspice and black pepper, powdered,
+half an ounce each; cayenne, one drachm, or curry powder, three drachms;
+celery seed, bruised, one drachm; all avoirdupois weight. Put these into
+a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it every day for a
+fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the addition of
+a quarter of a pint of soy or thick browning), and you will have &#8220;a
+delicious double relish.&#8221; Dr. Kitchener says, this composition is one of
+the chefs d&#8217;&#339;uvres of many experiments he has made, for the purpose
+of enabling good housewives to prepare their own sauces; it is equally
+agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragouts, &amp;c.; and as a fair lady
+may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, that all
+the ingredients are good and wholesome.</p>
+
+<p><em>Obs.</em> Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> may be in want of the
+substances necessary to make sauce; the above composition of the several
+articles from which the various gravies derive their flavor, will be
+found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large
+tablespoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, or
+broth, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly
+equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual nerves into good
+humor as anything I know.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MINT_SAUCE" id="MINT_SAUCE"></a>MINT SAUCE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">&#8220;Live bullion,&#8221; says merciless Bob, &#8220;which I think<br />
+Would, if coined with a little <em>mint sauce</em>, be delicious.&#8221;<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to this
+add one-third the quantity of parsley), pick the leaves from the stalks,
+mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with a teaspoonful
+of moist sugar and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CRANBERRY_SAUCE" id="CRANBERRY_SAUCE"></a>CRANBERRY SAUCE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Our fathers most admired their <em>sauces sweet</em>,<br />
+And often asked for sugar <em>with their meat</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with just
+about a teacup of water; stew them slowly and stir them frequently,
+particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal of
+stewing, and should be like marmalade when done. When they are broken
+and the juice comes out, stir in a pound of white sugar. When they are
+thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them away to get
+cold. You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould,
+and when it is a firm shape send it to table.</p>
+
+<p>Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast fowl, turkey, &amp;c.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CAPER_SAUCE" id="CAPER_SAUCE"></a>CAPER SAUCE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i8">Along these shores</span><br />
+Neglected trade with difficulty toils,<br />
+Collecting slender stores; the sun-dried grape,<br />
+Or <em>capers</em> from the rock, that prompt the taste<br />
+Of luxury.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dyer.</span></p>
+
+<p>To make a quarter of a pint, take a tablespoonful of capers and two
+teaspoonfuls of vinegar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> The present fashion of cutting capers is to
+mince one-third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put
+them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened gravy;
+stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil.
+Some boil and mince fine a few leaves of parsley or chevrel or tarragon,
+and add to the sauce; others, the juice of half a Seville orange or
+lemon.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="VEGETABLES" id="VEGETABLES"></a>VEGETABLES.</h2>
+
+<p class="poem">Grateful and salutary Spring! the <em>plants</em><br />
+Which crown thy numerous gardens, and invite<br />
+To health and temperance, in the simple meal,<br />
+Unstain&#8217;d with murder, undefil&#8217;d with blood,<br />
+Unpoison&#8217;d with rich sauces, to provoke<br />
+The unwilling appetite to gluttony.<br />
+For this, the <em>bulbous esculents</em> their roots<br />
+With sweetness fill; for this, with cooling juice<br />
+The green herb spreads its <em>leaves</em>; and opening <em>buds</em><br />
+And <em>flowers</em> and <em>seeds</em> with various flavors tempts<br />
+Th&#8217; ensanguined palate from its savage feast.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+
+<p>As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to the
+largest or smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full of flavor,
+just before they are quite full grown. Freshness is their chief value
+and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animal alive,
+as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead.</p>
+
+<p>To boil them in soft water will preserve the color best of such as are
+green; if you have only hard water, put to it a teaspoonful of carbonate
+of potash.</p>
+
+<p>Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, and
+insects. This requires great attention.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, make
+it boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before you
+put in the greens, &amp;c., which should not be put in till the water boils
+briskly; the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When the
+vegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has been
+kept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will lose
+their color and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly before
+you send them to table.</p>
+
+<p>This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_DRESS_SALAD" id="TO_DRESS_SALAD"></a>TO DRESS SALAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Two large potatoes, pressed through kitchen sieve,<br />
+Smoothness and softness to the <em>salad</em> give;<br />
+Of mordant mustard add a single spoon;<br />
+Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;<br />
+But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,<br />
+To add a double quantity of salt.<br />
+Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,<br />
+And twice with vinegar procured from town;<br />
+True flavor needs it, and your poet begs<br />
+The pounded yellow of two boiled eggs;<br />
+Let onion&#8217;s atoms lurk within the bowl,<br />
+And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span><br />
+And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss<br />
+A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.<br />
+O great and glorious! O herbaceous treat!<br />
+&#8217;Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat,<br />
+Back to the world he&#8217;d turn his weary soul,<br />
+And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Rev. Sidney Smith.</span></p>
+
+<p>If the herbs be young, fresh-gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dry
+and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the above directions, he
+cannot fail of obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished
+salad-dresser.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ONIONS" id="ONIONS"></a>ONIONS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">The things we eat, by various juice control<br />
+The narrowness or largeness of our soul.<br />
+<em>Onions</em> will make e&#8217;en heirs or widows weep;<br />
+The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep.<br />
+
+<span class="author"><a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to put
+them on to boil; put them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold water;
+let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size and
+age) from half an hour to an hour.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ARTICHOKES" id="ARTICHOKES"></a>ARTICHOKES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Whose appetites would soon devour<br />
+Each cabbage, <em>artichoke</em>, and flower.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cawthorne.</span></p>
+
+<p>Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of
+boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently till
+tender, which will take an hour and a half or two hours. The surest way
+to know when they are done enough is to draw out a leaf. Trim them and
+drain them on a sieve, and send up melted butter with them, which some
+put into small cups, so that each guest may have one.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="LIMA_BEANS" id="LIMA_BEANS"></a>LIMA BEANS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Now fragrant with the <em>bean&#8217;s</em> perfume,<br />
+Now purpled with the pulse&#8217;s bloom,<br />
+Might well with bright allusions store me;<br />
+But happier bards have been before me.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shenstone.</span></p>
+
+<p>These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should be
+gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and then
+boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft; drain them well,
+and add to them some butter. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> are destroyed by the first frost, but
+can be kept during the winter by gathering them on a dry day, when full
+grown, but not the least hard, and putting them in their pods into a
+keg. Throw some salt into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a
+layer of bean pods, then add more salt, and then another layer of beans
+in their pods, till the keg is full. Press them down with a heavy
+weight, cover the keg closely, and keep it in a cool, dry place. Before
+you use them, soak the pods all night in cold water, the next day shell
+them, and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="POTATOES" id="POTATOES"></a>POTATOES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Leeks to the Welsh, to Dutchmen butter&#8217;s dear;<br />
+Of Irish swains, <em>potatoes</em> is the cheer.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Fill
+a saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size (or make them so by
+dividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as will cover
+them about an inch; they are sooner boiled, and more savory than when
+drowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too little
+water; but potatoes are often spoiled by having too much; they must be
+merely covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> they
+may be just covered at the finish. Set them on a moderate fire till they
+boil; then take them off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmer
+slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork. Place no dependence on
+the usual test of their skins cracking, which, if they are boiled fast,
+will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done, and the
+insides quite hard. Then pour the water off&mdash;(if you let the potatoes
+remain in the water a moment after they are done enough, they will
+become waxy and watery),&mdash;uncover the <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>saucepan, and set it at such a
+distance from the fire as will secure it from burning; their superfluous
+moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be perfectly dry and
+mealy.</p>
+
+<p>You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of the
+saucepan&#8217;s diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till
+wanted.</p>
+
+<p>This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to steaming
+them, and they are dressed in half the time.</p>
+
+<p>There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, it is
+impossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way is to try
+them with a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will generally be done enough
+in fifteen or twenty minutes.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PEAS" id="PEAS"></a>PEAS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Your infant <em>peas</em> to asparagus prefer;<br />
+Which to the supper you may best defer.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Young green peas, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicacies
+of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young. It is equally
+indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they
+are shelled, for they soon lose both their color and sweetness. After
+being shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullender, put them on, in
+plenty of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt; boil them till they
+become tender, which, if young, will be less than half an hour; if old,
+they will require more than an hour. Drain them in a cullender, and put
+them into a dish, with a slice of fresh butter in it. Some people think
+it an improvement to boil a small bunch of mint with the peas; it is
+then minced finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or sides of the
+dish. If peas are allowed to stand in the water, after being boiled,
+they lose their color.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="RICE" id="RICE"></a>RICE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i5">Every week dispense</span><br />
+English beans or <em>Carolinian rice</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Grainger.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash the rice perfectly clean; put on one pound in two quarts of cold
+water; let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a sieve, and put it
+before the fire; shake it up with a fork every now and then, to separate
+the grains, and make it quite dry. Serve it hot.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TURNIPS" id="TURNIPS"></a>TURNIPS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">On <em>turnips</em> feast whene&#8217;er you please,<br />
+And riot in my beans and peas.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Wash, peel, and boil them till tender, in water with a little salt;
+serve them with melted butter. Or they may be stewed in a pint of milk,
+thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with salt
+and pepper, and served with the sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SPINACH" id="SPINACH"></a>SPINACH.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Much meat doth Gluttony procure,<br />
+<span class="i1">To feed men fat as swine;</span><br />
+But he&#8217;s a frugal man, indeed,<br />
+<span class="i1">That on <em>the leaf</em> can dine.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pick it very carefully, and wash it thoroughly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> two or three times; then
+put it on in boiling water with a little salt; let it boil nearly twenty
+minutes. Put it into a cullender; hold it under the watercock, and let
+the water run on it for a minute. Put it into a saucepan; beat it
+perfectly smooth with a wooden spoon; add a bit of butter, and three
+tablespoonfuls of cream. Mix it well together, and make it hot before
+serving.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ASPARAGUS" id="ASPARAGUS"></a>ASPARAGUS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">At early morn, I to the market haste,<br />
+(Studious in everything to please thy taste);<br />
+A curious fowl and <em>&#8217;sparagus</em> I chose,<br />
+(For I remembered you were fond of those).<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Boil asparagus in salt and water till it is tender at the stalk, which
+will be in twenty or thirty minutes. Great care must be taken to watch
+the exact time of its becoming tender. Toast some bread; dip it lightly
+in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of
+the dish; melt some butter; lay the asparagus upon the toast, which must
+project beyond the asparagus, that the company may see that there is
+toast.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CARROTS" id="CARROTS"></a>CARROTS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And when his juicy salads fail&#8217;d,<br />
+Slic&#8217;d <em>carrots</em> pleased him well.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cowper.</span></p>
+
+<p>Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. If young spring
+carrots, an hour is enough. When done, rub off the peels with a clean
+coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size.
+The best way to try if they are boiled enough, is to pierce them with a
+fork.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="LEEKS" id="LEEKS"></a>LEEKS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">With carrots red, and turnips white,<br />
+And <em>leeks</em>, Cadwallader&#8217;s delight,<br />
+And all the savory crop that vie<br />
+To please the palate and the eye.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Grainger.</span></p>
+
+<p>Leeks are most generally used for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes.
+They are very rarely brought to table; in which case dress them as
+follows. Put them in the stock pot till about three parts done; then
+take them out, drain and soak them in vinegar seasoned with pepper,
+salt, and cloves; drain them again, stuff their hearts with a farce, dip
+them in butter, and fry them.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="TO_DRY_HERBS" id="TO_DRY_HERBS"></a>TO DRY HERBS.</h2>
+
+<p class="poem"><em>Herbs</em> too she knew, and well of each could speak<br />
+<span class="i1">That in her garden sipp&#8217;d the silvery dew,</span><br />
+Where no vain flower disclosed a gaudy streak,<br />
+<span class="i1">But herbs, for use and physic, not a few</span><br />
+Of gray renown, within those borders grew,&mdash;<br />
+<span class="i1">The <em>tufted basil</em>, <em>pun-provoking thyme</em>,</span><br />
+Fresh <em>balm</em>, and <em>marigold</em> of cheerful hue,<br />
+<span class="i1">The <em>lowly gill</em>, that never dares to climb,</span><br />
+And more I fain would sing, disdaining here to rhyme.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shenstone.</span></p>
+
+
+<p>It is very important to know when the various seasons commence for
+picking sweet and savory herbs for drying. Care should be taken that
+they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better
+color when dried. Cleanse them well from dirt and dust, cut off the
+roots, separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat
+of the stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such
+quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, <em>i. e.</em>
+&#8220;Kill &#8217;em quick,&#8221; says a great botanist; by this means their flavor will
+be best preserved. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drying,
+&amp;c., hastily by the aid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of
+the sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only caution
+requisite is to avoid burning; and of this a sufficient test is afforded
+by the preservation of the color. The best method to preserve the flavor
+of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried,
+and to pound them, and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them in
+well-stopped bottles labelled.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="PICKLES" id="PICKLES"></a>PICKLES.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MANGOES" id="MANGOES"></a>MANGOES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">What lord of old would bid his cook prepare<br />
+<em>Mangoes</em>, potargo, champignons, caviare!<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>There is a particular sort of melon for this purpose. Cut a square small
+piece out of one side, and through that take out the seeds, mix with
+them mustard seeds and shred garlic, stuff the melon as full as the
+space will allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up with small
+new pack-thread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting,
+with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour it boiling over the mangoes, four
+successive days; the last day put flour of mustard and scraped
+horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Observe that there is
+plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled, if not well covered.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PICKLED_CABBAGE" id="PICKLED_CABBAGE"></a>PICKLED CABBAGE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Lives in a cell, and eats from week to week<br />
+A meal of <em>pickled cabbage</em> and ox cheek.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cawthorne.</span></p>
+
+<p>Choose two middling-sized, well-colored and firm red cabbages, shred
+them very finely, first pulling off the outside leaves; mix with them
+nearly half a pound of salt; tie it up in a thin cloth, and let it hang
+for twelve hours; then put it into small jars, and pour over it cold
+vinegar that has been boiled with a few barberries in it. Boil in a
+quart of vinegar, three bits of ginger, half an ounce of pepper, and a
+quarter of an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over the red cabbage.
+Tie the jar closely with bladder.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="SWEETMEATS" id="SWEETMEATS"></a>SWEETMEATS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_CLARIFY_SUGAR" id="TO_CLARIFY_SUGAR"></a>TO CLARIFY SUGAR.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">&#8217;Mongst salts essential, <em>sugar</em> wins the palm,<br />
+For taste, for color, and for various use.<br />
+O&#8217;er all thy works let cleanliness preside,<br />
+Child of frugality; and as the scum<br />
+Thick mantles o&#8217;er the boiling wave, do thou<br />
+The scum that mantles carefully remove.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Grainger.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i8">Whereof little</span><br />
+More than a little is by much too much.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shakspeare.</span></p>
+
+<p>To every three pounds of loaf sugar, allow the beaten white of an egg
+and a pint and a half of water; break the sugar small, put it into a
+nicely cleaned brass pan, pour the water over it; let it stand some time
+before it be put upon the fire, then add the beaten white of the egg;
+stir it till the sugar be entirely dissolved; when it boils up, pour in
+a quarter of a pint of cold water, let it boil up a second time, take it
+off the fire, let it settle for fifteen minutes, carefully take off all
+the scum, let it boil again till sufficiently thick; in order to
+as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>certain which, drop a little from a spoon into a jar of cold water,
+and if it become quite hard, it is sufficiently done, and the fruit to
+be preserved must instantly be put in and boiled.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CURRANT_JELLY" id="CURRANT_JELLY"></a>CURRANT JELLY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">He snuffs far off the anticipated joy,<br />
+<em>Jelly</em> and ven&#8217;son all his thoughts employ.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cowper.</span></p>
+
+<p>Currant, grape, and raspberry jelly are all made precisely in the same
+manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day. As soon as
+it is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close.
+Set the jar in a saucepan, about three parts filled with cold water; put
+it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the
+pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag,
+pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. To each
+pint of juice, add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded,
+when it is put into a preserving pan; set it on the fire, and boil it
+gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or forty
+minutes), <em>i. e.</em> till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear and
+fine; pour it warm into pots, and when cold, cover them with paper
+wetted in brandy.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>Half a pint of this jelly dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar will
+give you an excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><em>Obs.</em> Jellies from the fruits are made in the same way, and cannot be
+preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. The best way is
+the cheapest.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="APPLE_JELLY" id="APPLE_JELLY"></a>APPLE JELLY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">The board was spread with fruits and wine;<br />
+With grapes of gold, like those that shine<br />
+<span class="i1">On Caslin&#8217;s hills; pomegranates, full</span><br />
+Of melting sweetness, and the pears<br />
+<span class="i1">And sunniest <em>apples</em> that Cabul</span><br />
+In all its thousand gardens bears.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pare and mince three dozen juicy, acid apples; put them into a pan;
+cover them with water, and boil them till very soft; strain them through
+a thin cloth or flannel bag; allow a pound of loaf sugar to a pint of
+juice, with the grated peel and juice of six lemons. Boil it for twenty
+minutes; take off the scum as it rises.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHERRY_JELLY" id="CHERRY_JELLY"></a>CHERRY JELLY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">With rich conserve of <em>Visna cherries</em>,<br />
+Of orange flower, and of those berries<br />
+That&mdash;&mdash;.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take the stones and stalks from two pounds of clear, fine, ripe
+cherries; mix them with a quarter of a pound of red currants, from which
+the seeds have been extracted; express the juice from these fruits;
+filter, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar,
+and one ounce of isinglass. Replace the vessel on the fire with the
+juice, and add to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled <em>&agrave; conserve</em>.
+Boil together a few times, and then pour the conserve into cases.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CALVES_FEET_JELLY" id="CALVES_FEET_JELLY"></a>CALVES&#8217; FEET JELLY.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Nature hates vacuums, as you know,<br />
+We, therefore, will descend below,<br />
+And fill, with dainties nice and light,<br />
+The vacuum in your appetite.<br />
+Besides, good wine and dainty fare<br />
+Are sometimes known to lighten care;<br />
+Nay, man is often brisk or dull,<br />
+As the keen stomach&#8217;s void or full.</p>
+
+<p>To four feet add four quarts of water; let them boil on a slow fire till
+the flesh is parted from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> bones, and the quantity reduced to half;
+strain it carefully, and the next morning remove the feet and sediment.
+Add the rind of two lemons, the juice of five lemons, one and a half
+pounds of white sugar, a stick of cinnamon, a little nutmeg, a pint of
+sherry wine, half a teacupful of brandy; beat the white of ten eggs to a
+froth, and put them into the pan with their shells; let it boil ten
+minutes, when throw in a teacupful of cold water. Strain it through a
+flannel bag, first dipped into boiling water.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PINEAPPLE_PRESERVE" id="PINEAPPLE_PRESERVE"></a>PINEAPPLE PRESERVE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And the <em>sun&#8217;s child</em>, the <em>mail&#8217;d anana</em>, yields<br />
+His <em>regal apple</em> to the ravish&#8217;d taste.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Grainger.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pare your pineapple; cut it in small pieces, and leave out the core. Mix
+the pineapple with half a pound of powdered white sugar, and set it away
+in a covered dish till sufficient juice is drawn out to stew the fruit
+in.</p>
+
+<p>Stew the pineapple in the sugar and juice till quite soft, then mash it
+to a marmalade with the back of a spoon, and set it away to cool; pour
+it in tumblers, cover them with paper, gum-arabicked on.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="EGGS" id="EGGS"></a>EGGS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="OMELET" id="OMELET"></a>OMELET.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Though many, I own, are the evils they&#8217;ve brought us,<br />
+<span class="i1">Though R**al*y&#8217;s here on her very last legs;</span><br />
+Yet who can help loving the land that has taught us<br />
+<span class="i1">Six hundred and eighty-five ways to dress <em>eggs</em>!</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take as many eggs as you think proper; break them into a pan, with some
+salt and chopped parsley; beat them well, and season them according to
+taste. Have ready some onion, chopped small; put some butter into a
+fryingpan, and when it is hot, put in your chopped onion, giving them
+two or three turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the whole of a
+nice brown. You must only fry one side; serve the fried side uppermost.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="TO_POACH_EGGS" id="TO_POACH_EGGS"></a>TO POACH EGGS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">But, after all, what would you have me do,<br />
+When, out of twenty, I can please not two?<br />
+One likes the pheasant&#8217;s wing, and one the leg;<br />
+The vulgar boil, the learned <em>poach an egg</em>;<br />
+Hard task to hit the palate of such guests,<br />
+When Oldfield loves what Dartineuf detests.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Pope.</span></p>
+
+<p>The cook who wishes to display her skill in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> poaching, must endeavor to
+procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days; those that are new
+laid are so milky, that, take all the care you can, your cooking of them
+will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher. You must
+have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. The beauty of a poached
+egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the white, which should
+only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil for the
+egg. Have some boiling water in a teakettle; pass as much of it through
+a clean cloth as will half fill a stewpan; break the egg into a cup, and
+when the water boils remove the stewpan from the stove, and gently slip
+the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it on a
+very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is ready.
+Take it up with a slicer, and neatly place it on a piece of toast.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BOILED_EGGS" id="BOILED_EGGS"></a>BOILED EGGS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">On holydays, an <em>egg or two</em> at most;<br />
+But her ambition never reached to roast.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Chaucer.</span></p>
+
+<p>The fresher laid the better. Put them into boiling water; if you like
+the white just set, about two minutes&#8217; boiling is enough. A new-laid egg
+will take a little more. If you wish the yolk to be set, it will take
+three, and to boil it hard for a salad,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> ten minutes. A new-laid egg
+will require longer boiling than a stale one by half a minute.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FRIED_EGGS" id="FRIED_EGGS"></a>FRIED EGGS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Go work, hunt, exercise (he thus begun),<br />
+Then scorn a homely dinner if you can;<br />
+<em>Fried eggs</em>, and herbs, and olives, still we see:<br />
+This much is left of old simplicity.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Pope.</span></p>
+
+<p>Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may be served as a second
+course dish, to eat with roast chicken.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EGGS_AND_BREAD" id="EGGS_AND_BREAD"></a>EGGS AND BREAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Never go to France,<br />
+<span class="i1">Unless you know the lingo;</span><br />
+If you do, like me,<br />
+<span class="i1">You&#8217;ll repent, by jingo.</span><br />
+Starving like a fool,<br />
+<span class="i1">And silent as a mummy,</span><br />
+There I stood alone,<br />
+<span class="i1">A nation with a dummy.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Signs I had to make<br />
+<span class="i1">For every little notion;</span><br />
+Limbs all going like<br />
+<span class="i1">A telegraph in motion;</span><br />
+If I wanted <em>bread</em>,<br />
+<span class="i1">My jaws I set a-going,</span><br />
+And asked for <em>new laid eggs</em><br />
+<span class="i1">By clapping hands and crowing.</span></p>
+
+<p>Put half a handful of breadcrumbs into a sauce<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>pan, with a small
+quantity of cream, sugar, and nutmeg, and let it stand till the bread
+has imbibed all the cream; then break ten eggs into it, and having
+beaten them up together, fry it like an omelet.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="OMELETTE_SOUFFLE" id="OMELETTE_SOUFFLE"></a>OMELETTE SOUFFL&Eacute;.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">&#8220;Where is my favorite dish?&#8221; he cried;<br />
+&#8220;Let some one place it by my side!&#8221;<br />
+
+<span class="author">Donne.</span></p>
+
+<p>Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four (set aside the
+remaining whites), with a spoonful of water, some salt, sugar, and the
+juice of a lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish. Whip the four
+whites which were set aside to a froth with sugar, and place it over the
+fried eggs; bake it for a few minutes.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="DESSERTS" id="DESSERTS"></a>DESSERTS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PUFF_PASTE" id="PUFF_PASTE"></a>PUFF PASTE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i9">The <em>puffs</em> made me light,</span><br />
+And now that&#8217;s all over, I&#8217;m pretty well, thank you.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Weigh an equal quantity of flour and butter, rub rather more than half
+the flour into one-third of the butter; add as much cold water as will
+make it into a stiff paste; work it until the butter be completely mixed
+with the flour, make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin, dust it, as
+also the rolling-pin with flour, and roll it out towards the opposite
+side of the slab, or paste-board, making it of an equal thickness, then
+with the point of a knife, put little bits of butter all over it, dust
+flour over it and under it, fold in all the sides, and roll it up, dust
+it again with flour, beat it a little, and roll out, always rubbing the
+rolling-pin with flour, and throwing some underneath the paste to
+prevent its sticking to the board.</p>
+
+<p>It should be touched as little as possible with the hands.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PYRAMID_PASTE" id="PYRAMID_PASTE"></a>PYRAMID PASTE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">You that from pliant <em>paste</em> would fabrics raise,<br />
+Expecting thence to gain immortal praise,<br />
+Your knuckles try, and let your sinews know<br />
+Their power to knead, and give the form to dough;<br />
+From thence of course the figure will arise,<br />
+And elegance adorn the surface of your pies.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make a rich puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut it
+into five or seven pieces with scalloped tin cutters, which go one
+within another; leave the bottom and top piece entire, and cut a bit out
+of the centre of the others. Place them upon buttered baking tins, and
+bake them of a light brown. Build them into a pyramid, laying a
+different preserved fruit upon each piece of paste, and on the top a
+whole apricot with a sprig of myrtle stuck in it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FRUIT_PIES" id="FRUIT_PIES"></a>FRUIT PIES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Unless some <em>sweetness</em> at the bottom lie,<br />
+Who cares for all the crinkling of the pie!<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Fruit pies for family use are generally made with common paste. Allow
+three quarters of a pound of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> butter to a pound and a half of flour.
+Peaches and plums for pies should be cut in half, and the stones taken
+out. Cherries also should be stoned, and red cherries only should be
+used for pies. Apples should be cut into very thin slices, and are much
+improved by a little lemon-peel. Apples stewed previous to baking,
+should not be done till they break, but only till they are tender. They
+should then be drained in a cullender, and chopped fine with a knife or
+edge of a spoon. In making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good way to set
+a small teacup on the bottom crust, and lay the fruit round it. The
+juice will collect under the cup, and not run out at the edges or top of
+the pie. The fruit should be mixed with a sufficient quantity of sugar,
+and piled up in the middle, so as to make the pie highest in the centre.</p>
+
+<p>The upper crust should be pricked with a fork. The edges should be
+nicely crimped with a knife. If stewed fruit is put in warm, it will
+make the paste heavy. If your pies are made in the form of shells, the
+fruit should always be stewed first, or it will not be sufficiently
+done, as the shells (which should be made of puff paste) must not bake
+so long as covered pies.</p>
+
+<p>Fruit pies with lids should have loaf sugar grated over them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MINCE_PIES" id="MINCE_PIES"></a>MINCE PIES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">When Terence spoke, oraculous and sly,<br />
+He&#8217;d neither grant the question nor deny,<br />
+Pleading for tarts, his thoughts were on <em>mince pie</em>.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">My poor endeavors view with gracious eye,<br />
+To make these lines above a <em>Christmas pie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Two pounds of boiled beef&#8217;s heart or fresh tongue, or lean fresh beef
+chopped, when cold; two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, four pounds of
+pippin apples chopped, two pounds of raisins stoned and chopped, two
+pounds of currants picked, washed, and dried, two pounds of powdered
+sugar, one quart of white wine, one quart of brandy, one wine-glass of
+rose-water, two grated nutmegs, half an ounce of cinnamon, powdered, a
+quarter of an ounce of mace, powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, two large
+oranges, and half a pound of citron cut in slips. Pack it closely into
+stone jars, and tie them over with paper. When it is to be used, add a
+little more wine.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PLUM_PUDDING" id="PLUM_PUDDING"></a>PLUM PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">All you who to feasting and mirth are inclined,<br />
+Come, here is good news for to pleasure your mind.<br />
+Old Christmas is come, for to keep open house:<br />
+He scorns to be guilty of starving a mouse.<br />
+Then come, boys, and welcome, for diet the chief,&mdash;<br />
+<em>Plum pudding</em>, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.<br />
+The cooks shall be busied, by day and by night,<br />
+In roasting and <em>boiling</em>, for taste and delight.<br />
+Provision is making for beer, ale, and wine,<br />
+For all that are willing or ready to dine.<br />
+Meantime goes the caterer to fetch in <em>the chief</em>,&mdash;<br />
+<em>Plum pudding</em>, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Ancient Christmas Carol.</span></p>
+
+<p>One quarter of a pound of beef suet; take out the strings and skin; chop
+it to appear like butter; stone one pound of raisins, one pound of
+currants, well washed, dried, and floured, one pound loaf sugar, rolled
+and sifted, one pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten; beat all well
+together for some time, then add by degrees two glasses of brandy, one
+wine, one rose-water, citron, nutmeg, and cinnamon; beat it all
+extremely well together, tie it in a floured cloth very tight, let it
+boil four hours constantly; let your sauce be a quarter pound of butter,
+beat to a cream, a quarter pound loaf sugar pounded and sifted; beat in
+the butter with a little wine and sugar and nutmeg.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="COCOANUT_PUDDING" id="COCOANUT_PUDDING"></a>COCOANUT PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Whatever was the <em>best pie</em> going,<br />
+In <em>that</em> Ned&mdash;trust him&mdash;had his finger.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take the thin brown skin off of a quarter pound of cocoa, wash it in
+cold water, and wipe it dry; grate it fine, stir three and half ounces
+of butter and a quarter pound of powdered sugar, to a cream; add half
+teaspoonful of rose-water, half glass of wine and of brandy mixed, to
+them. Beat the white of six eggs till they stand alone, and then stir
+them into the butter and sugar; afterwards sprinkle in the grated nut,
+and stir hard all the time. Put puff paste into the bottom of the dish,
+pour in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, half an hour. Grate
+loaf sugar over it when cold.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="APPLE_PUDDING" id="APPLE_PUDDING"></a>APPLE PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Where London&#8217;s column, pointing to the skies,<br />
+Like a tall bully, lifts the head and lies,<br />
+There dwelt a citizen of sober fame,<br />
+A plain, good man, and Balaam was his name;<br />
+Religious, punctual, frugal, and so forth,<br />
+His word would pass for more than he was worth;<br />
+One solid dish his week-day meal affords,<br />
+And <em>apple pudding</em> solemnized the Lord&#8217;s.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Pope.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make a batter of two eggs, a pint of milk and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> three or four spoonfuls
+of flour; pour it into a deep dish, and having pared six or eight
+apples, place them whole in the batter, and bake them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="HASTY_PUDDING" id="HASTY_PUDDING"></a>HASTY PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">But man, more fickle, the bold license claims,<br />
+In different realms, to give thee different names.<br />
+<em>Thee</em>, the soft nations round the warm Levant<br />
+Polanta call; the French, of course, Polante.<br />
+E&#8217;en in thy native regions, how I blush<br />
+To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee <em>mush</em>!<br />
+All spurious appellations, void of truth;<br />
+I&#8217;ve better known thee from my earliest youth:<br />
+Thy name is <em>Hasty Pudding</em>! Thus our sires<br />
+Were wont to greet thee from the fuming fires;<br />
+And while they argued in thy just defence,<br />
+With logic clear, they thus explained the sense:<br />
+&#8220;In <em>haste</em> the boiling caldron, o&#8217;er the blaze,<br />
+Receives and cooks the ready-powdered maize;<br />
+In haste &#8217;tis served, and then in equal <em>haste</em>,<br />
+With cooling milk, we make the sweet repast.<br />
+No carving to be done, no knife to grate<br />
+The tender ear, and wound the stony plate;<br />
+But the smooth spoon, just fitted to the lip,<br />
+And taught with art the yielding mass to dip,<br />
+By frequent journeys to the bowl well stored,<br />
+Performs the <em>hasty</em> honors of the board.&#8221;<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>Such is thy name, significant and clear,&mdash;<br />
+A name, a sound, to every Yankee dear;<br />
+But most to me, whose heart and palate chaste<br />
+Preserve my pure, hereditary taste.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Barlow.</span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="YORKSHIRE_PUDDING" id="YORKSHIRE_PUDDING"></a>YORKSHIRE PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i7">The strong table groans</span><br />
+Beneath the smoking sirloin, stretch&#8217;d immense<br />
+From side to side; in which with desperate knife<br />
+They deep incisions make, and talk the while<br />
+Of England&#8217;s glory, ne&#8217;er to be defaced<br />
+While hence they borrow vigor; or amain<br />
+Into the <em>pudding</em> plunged at intervals,<br />
+If stomach keen can intervals allow,<br />
+Relating all the glories of the chase.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Thomson.</span></p>
+
+<p>This pudding is especially an excellent accompaniment to a sirloin of
+beef. Six tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt,
+and a pint of milk, make a middling stiff batter; beat it up well; take
+care it is not lumpy. Put a dish under the meat; let the drippings drop
+into it, till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter.
+When the upper surface is browned and set, turn it, that both sides may
+be brown alike. A pudding an inch thick will take two hours. Serve it
+under the roast beef, that the juice of the beef may enter it. It is
+very fine.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SUET_PUDDING" id="SUET_PUDDING"></a>SUET PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Sir Balaam now, he lives like other folks;<br />
+He takes his chirping, and cracks his jokes.<br />
+Live like yourself, was soon my lady&#8217;s word;<br />
+And lo! <em>suet pudding</em> was seen upon the board.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Pope.</span></p>
+
+<p>Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three tablespoonfuls; eggs two, and a
+little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as
+possible; roll it with the rolling-pin, so as to mix it well with the
+flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix them all
+together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, and boil it an hour and
+a quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it: &#8220;When you have made your water boil, then
+put your pudding into your pot.&#8221;</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="OATMEAL_PUDDING" id="OATMEAL_PUDDING"></a>OATMEAL PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Of oats decorticated take two pounds,<br />
+And of new milk enough the same to drown;<br />
+Of raisins of the sun, stoned, ounces eight;<br />
+Of currants, cleanly picked, an equal weight;<br />
+Of suet, finely sliced, an ounce at least;<br />
+And six eggs, newly taken from the nest:<br />
+Season this mixture well with salt and spice;<br />
+&#8217;Twill make a pudding far exceeding rice;<br />
+And you may safely feed on it like farmers,<br />
+For the recipe is learned Dr. Harmer&#8217;s.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EVES_PUDDING" id="EVES_PUDDING"></a>EVE&#8217;S PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">If you want a good pudding, mind what you are taught:<br />
+Take eggs, six in number, when bought for a groat;<br />
+The fruit with which Eve her husband did cozen,<br />
+Well pared and well chopped, take at least half a dozen;<br />
+Six ounces of bread&mdash;let the cook eat the crust&mdash;<br />
+And crumble the soft as fine as the dust;<br />
+Six ounces of currants from the stalks you must sort,<br />
+Lest they husk out your teeth, and spoil all the sport;<br />
+Six ounces of sugar won&#8217;t make it too sweet,<br />
+And some salt and some nutmeg will make it complete.<br />
+Three hours let it boil, without any flutter,<br />
+And Adam won&#8217;t like it without sugar and butter.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Anonymous.</span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHARLOTTE_DES_POMMES" id="CHARLOTTE_DES_POMMES"></a>CHARLOTTE DES POMMES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><em>Charlotte</em>, from rennet apples first did frame<br />
+<em>A pie</em>, which still retains her name.<br />
+Though common grown, yet with white sugar stewed,<br />
+And butter&#8217;d right, its goodness is allowed.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pare, core, and mince fifteen French rennet apples; put them into a
+frying-pan with some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> powdered loaf sugar, a little pounded cinnamon,
+grated lemon-peel, and two ounces and a half of fresh butter; fry them a
+quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stirring them constantly. Butter
+the shape the size the Charlotte is intended to be; cut strips of bread
+long enough to reach from the bottom to the rim of the shape, so that
+the whole be lined with bread; dip each bit into melted butter, and put
+a layer of fried apples, and one of apricot jam or marmalade, and then
+one of bread dipped into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour. Turn it out to serve.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BATTER_PUDDING" id="BATTER_PUDDING"></a>BATTER PUDDING.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">A frugal man, upon the whole,<br />
+Yet loved his friend, and had a soul;<br />
+Knew what was handsome, and would do&#8217;t<br />
+On just occasion, co&ucirc;te qui co&ucirc;te.<br />
+He brought him bacon (nothing lean);<br />
+<em>Pudding</em>, that might have pleased a dean;<br />
+Cheese, such as men of Suffolk make,<br />
+But wished it Stilton for his sake.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Pope.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take six ounces of flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat it well
+with a little milk, added by degrees, till the batter becomes smooth;
+make it the thickness of cream; put it into a buttered and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> floured bag;
+tie it tightly; boil one and a half hour, or two hours. Serve with wine
+sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="APPLE_DUMPLINGS" id="APPLE_DUMPLINGS"></a>APPLE DUMPLINGS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">By the rivulet, on the rushes,<br />
+Beneath a canopy of bushes,<br />
+Colin Blount and Yorkshire Tray<br />
+Taste the <em>dumplings</em> and the whey.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Smart.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pare and scoop out the core of six large baking apples; put part of a
+clove and a little grated lemon-peel inside of each, and enclose them in
+pieces of puff paste; boil them in nets for the purpose, or bits of
+linen, for an hour. Before serving, cut off a small bit from the top of
+each, and put a teaspoonful of sugar and a bit of fresh butter; replace
+the bit of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf sugar.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SWEETMEAT_FRITTERS" id="SWEETMEAT_FRITTERS"></a>SWEETMEAT FRITTERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">If chronicles may be believed,<br />
+So loved the pamper&#8217;d gallant lived,<br />
+That with the nuns he always dined<br />
+On rarities of every kind;<br />
+Then hoards, occasionally varied,<br />
+Of biscuits, <em>sweetmeats</em>, nuts, and fruits.</p>
+
+<p>Cut small any sort of candied fruit, and heat it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> with a bit of fresh
+butter, some good milk, and a little grated lemon-peel; when quite hot,
+stir in enough of flour to make it into a stiff paste; take it off the
+fire, and work in eight or ten eggs, two at a time. When cold, form the
+fritters, fry, and serve them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FRITTERS" id="FRITTERS"></a>FRITTERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Methinks I scent some <em>rich repast</em>:<br />
+The savor strengthens with the blast.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take a dozen apricots, or any other fruit preserved in brandy; drain
+them in half; then wrap them in wafers, cut round, and previously
+moistened. Make the batter by putting a glass and a half of water, a
+grain of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, into a saucepan. When it
+boils, stir in sufficient quantity of flour to make it rather a firm
+batter; keep it stirring three minutes; then pour it into another
+vessel: dip the fruit in this batter, and fry them; sprinkle them with
+sugar, then serve.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CREAMS" id="CREAMS"></a>CREAMS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ICE_CREAM" id="ICE_CREAM"></a>ICE CREAM.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">After dreaming some hours of the land of Cocaigne,<br />
+<span class="i1">That Elysium of all that is friand and nice,</span><br />
+Where for hail they have bonbons, and claret for rain,<br />
+<span class="i1">And the skaters in winter show off on <em>cream ice</em>.</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Here <em>ice, like crystal firm</em>, and never lost,<br />
+Tempers hot July with December&#8217;s frost.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Waller.</span></p>
+
+<p>Put a quart of rich cream into a broad pan; then stir in half a pound of
+powdered loaf sugar by degrees, and when all is well mixed, strain it
+through a sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, and set it in
+a tub. Fill the tub with ice broken into small pieces, and strew among
+the ice a large quantity of salt, taking care that none of the salt gets
+into the cream. Scrape the cream down with a spoon as it freezes round
+the edges of the tin. While the cream is freezing, stir in gradually the
+juice of two large lemons or the juice of a pint of mashed strawberries
+or raspberries. When it is all frozen, dip the tin in lukewarm water;
+take out the cream, and fill your glasses, but not till a few minutes
+before you want to use it, as it will melt very soon.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>If you wish to have it in moulds, put the cream into them as soon as it
+is frozen in the tin.</p>
+
+<p>Set the moulds in a tub of ice and salt. Just before you want to use the
+cream, take the moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash the salt carefully
+from the outside, dip the moulds into lukewarm water, and turn out the
+cream. You may flavor a quart of ice cream with two ounces of sweet
+almonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched, and beaten in a
+mortar with a little rose-water to a smooth paste.</p>
+
+<p>Stir in the almond gradually, while the cream is freezing.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="WHIPPED_CREAM" id="WHIPPED_CREAM"></a>WHIPPED CREAM.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Pudding our parson eats, the squire loves hare,<br />
+But <em>whipped cream</em> is my Buxoma&#8217;s fare,<br />
+While she loves <em>whipped cream</em>, capon ne&#8217;er shall be,<br />
+Nor hare, nor beef, nor pudding, food for me.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Sweeten with pounded loaf sugar a quart of cream, and to it a lump of
+sugar which has been rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or little
+oranges; or flavor it with orange flower water, a little essence of
+roses, the juice of strawberries, or any other fruit. Whisk the cream
+well in a large pan, and as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> on
+a sieve placed over another pan, and return the cream which drains from
+the froth till all is whisked; then heap it upon a dish, or put it into
+glasses.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BOILED_CUSTARDS" id="BOILED_CUSTARDS"></a>BOILED CUSTARDS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And <em>boiled custard</em>, take its merit in brief,<br />
+Makes a noble dessert, where the dinner&#8217;s roast beef.</p>
+
+<p>Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream,
+and the yolks of five eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of the
+seasoning, sweeten enough for the whole; pour it into the cream,
+stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper
+thickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way; then season
+with a large spoonful of peach-water, and two teaspoonfuls of brandy or
+a little ratafia. If you wish your custards extremely rich, put no milk,
+but a quart of cream.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ORANGE_CUSTARDS" id="ORANGE_CUSTARDS"></a>ORANGE CUSTARDS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">With <em>orange custards</em> and the juicy pine,<br />
+On choicest melons and sweet grapes they dine.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Jonson.</span></p>
+
+<p>Sweeten the strained juice of ten oranges with pounded loaf sugar, stir
+it over the fire till hot, take off the scum, and when nearly cold, add
+to it the beaten yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of cream;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> put it into
+a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve it in
+cups.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CUSTARDS_OR_CREAMS" id="CUSTARDS_OR_CREAMS"></a>CUSTARDS OR CREAMS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">But nicer cates, her dainty&#8217;s boasted fare,<br />
+The <em>jellied cream</em> or custards, daintiest food,<br />
+Or cheesecake, or the cooling syllabub,<br />
+For Thyrses she prepares.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+<p>Whisk for one hour the whites of two eggs, together with two
+tablespoonfuls of raspberry or red currant syrup or jelly; lay it in any
+form of a custard or cream, piled up to imitate rock. It may be served
+in a cream round it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ALMOND_CREAMS" id="ALMOND_CREAMS"></a>ALMOND CREAMS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i3">And from <em>sweet kernels</em> pressed,</span><br />
+She tempers <em>dulcet creams</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Milton.</span></p>
+
+<p>Blanch and pound to a paste, with rose-water, six ounces of almonds; mix
+them with a pint and a half of cream which has been boiled with the peel
+of a small lemon; add two well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over the
+fire till it be thick, taking care not to allow it to boil; sweeten it,
+and when nearly cold, stir in a tablespoonful of orange-flower or
+rose-water.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="MISCELLANEOUS2" id="MISCELLANEOUS2"></a>MISCELLANEOUS.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="YEAST" id="YEAST"></a>YEAST.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Not with the leaven, as of old,<br />
+Of sin and malice fed,<br />
+But with unfeigned sincerity.</p>
+
+<p>One dozen of potatoes, two cupfuls of hops; put them together in a bag,
+and place them in a pot with two quarts of water; let it boil till the
+potatoes are done; a cupful of salt, a ladle of flour; then pour the
+boiling water over it, then let it stand till lukewarm; add a cupful of
+old yeast, cover it up, and put near the fire till it foments.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BREAD" id="BREAD"></a>BREAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">His diet was of <em>wheaten bread</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cowper.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Mixt with the rustic throng, see ruddy maids,<br />
+Some taught with dextrous hand to twirl the wheel,<br />
+<span class="i14">Some expert<br /></span>
+To raise from <em>leavened wheat the kneaded loaf</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Her <em>bread</em> is deemed such dainty fare,<br />
+That ev&#8217;ry prudent traveller<br />
+His wallet loads with many a crust.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Cowper.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i5">Like the <em>loaf</em> in the Tub&#8217;s pleasant tale,</span><br />
+That was fish, flesh, and custard, good claret and ale,<br />
+It comprised every flavor, was all and was each,<br />
+Was grape and was pineapple, nectarine and peach.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Lovilond.</span></p>
+
+<p>Mix with six pounds of sifted flour one ounce of salt, nearly half a
+pint of fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brewery, and a sufficient
+quantity of warmed milk to make the whole into a stiff dough, work and
+knead it well on a board, on which a little flour has been strewed, for
+fifteen or twenty minutes, then put it into a deep pan, cover it with a
+warmed towel, set it before the fire, and let it rise for an hour and a
+half or perhaps two hours; cut off a piece of this sponge or dough;
+knead it well for eight or ten minutes, together with flour sufficient
+to keep it from adhering to the board, put it into small tins, filling
+them three quarters full; dent the rolls all around with a knife, and
+let them stand a few minutes before putting them in the oven.</p>
+
+<p>The remainder of the dough must then be worked up for loaves, and baked
+either in or out of shape.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="RYE_AND_INDIAN_BREAD" id="RYE_AND_INDIAN_BREAD"></a>RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Of wine she never tasted through the year,<br />
+But white and black was all her homely cheer,<br />
+<em>Brown bread</em> and milk (but first she skimmed her bowls),<br />
+And rasher of singed bacon on the coals.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Chaucer.</span></p>
+
+<p>Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them well
+together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling upon the meal; add
+two teaspoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let it stand
+till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half a pint of
+good, fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a smaller
+quantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and set it
+to rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been previously
+warmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light, and has
+cracked all over the top, make it into two loaves; put them into a
+moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BUTTER" id="BUTTER"></a>BUTTER.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i12">Vessels large</span><br />
+And broad, by the sweet hand of neatness clean&#8217;d,<br />
+Meanwhile, in decent order ranged appear,<br />
+The milky treasure, strain&#8217;d thro&#8217; filtering lawn,<br />
+Intended to receive. At early day,<br />
+Sweet slumber shaken from her opening lids,<br />
+My lovely Patty to her dairy hies;<br />
+There, from the surface of expanded bowls<br />
+She skims the floating cream, and to her churn<br />
+Commits the rich consistence; nor disdains,<br />
+Though soft her hand, though delicate her frame,<br />
+To urge the rural toil, fond to obtain<br />
+The country housewife&#8217;s humble name and praise.<br />
+Continued agitation separates soon<br />
+The unctuous particles; with gentler strokes<br />
+And artful, soon they coalesce; at length<br />
+Cool water pouring from the limpid spring<br />
+Into a smooth glazed vessel, deep and wide,<br />
+She gathers the loose fragments to a heap,<br />
+Which in the cleansing wave, well wrought and press&#8217;d,<br />
+To one consistent golden mass, receives<br />
+The sprinkled seasoning, and of pats or pounds<br />
+The fair impression, the neat shape assumes.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="COTTAGE_CHEESE" id="COTTAGE_CHEESE"></a>COTTAGE CHEESE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i6">Warm from the cow she pours<br /></span>
+The milky flood. An acid juice infused,<br />
+From the dried stomach drawn of suckling calf,<br />
+Coagulates the whole. Immediate now<br />
+Her spreading hands bear down the gathering curd,<br />
+Which hard and harder grows, till, clear and thin,<br />
+The green whey rises separate.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+<p>Warm three half pints of cream with one half pint of milk, and put a
+little rennet to it; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled;
+have a proper mould with holes, either of china or any other; put the
+curds into it to drain, about one hour or less. Serve it with a good
+plain cream, and pounded sugar over it.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CAKES" id="CAKES"></a>CAKES.</h2>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BUCKWHEAT_CAKES" id="BUCKWHEAT_CAKES"></a>BUCKWHEAT CAKES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Do, dear James, mix up the cakes:<br />
+Just one quart of meal it takes;<br />
+Pour the water on the pot,<br />
+Be careful it is not too hot;<br />
+Sift the meal well through your hand,<br />
+Thicken well&mdash;don&#8217;t let it stand;<br />
+Stir it quick,&mdash;clash, clatter, clatter!<br />
+O what light, delicious batter!<br />
+Now listen to the next command:<br />
+On the dresser let it stand<br />
+Just three quarters of an hour,<br />
+To feel the gently rising power<br />
+Of powders, melted into yeast,<br />
+To lighten well this precious feast.<br />
+See, now it rises to the brim!<br />
+Quick, take the ladle, dip it in;<br />
+So let it rest, until the fire<br />
+The griddle heats as you desire.<br />
+Be careful that the coals are glowing,<br />
+No smoke around its white curls throwing;<br />
+Apply the suet, softly, lightly;<br />
+The griddle&#8217;s black face shines more brightly.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>Now pour the batter on; delicious!<br />
+Don&#8217;t, dear James, think me officious,<br />
+But lift the tender edges lightly;<br />
+Now turn it over quickly, sprightly.<br />
+&#8217;Tis done! Now on the white plate lay it:<br />
+Smoking hot, with butter spread,<br />
+&#8217;Tis quite enough to turn our head!</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="JOHNNY_CAKES" id="JOHNNY_CAKES"></a>JOHNNY CAKES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Some talk of hoecake, fair Virginia&#8217;s pride!<br />
+Rich <em>Johnny cake</em> this mouth has often tried;<br />
+Both please me well, their virtues much the same;<br />
+Alike their fabric, as allied their fame.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Barlow.</span></p>
+
+<p>A quart of sifted Indian meal, and a handful of wheat flour sifted; mix
+them; three eggs, well beaten; two tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer&#8217;s
+yeast, or flour of home made yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quart
+of milk.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MUFFINS" id="MUFFINS"></a>MUFFINS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Friend, I am a shrewd observer, and will guess<br />
+What cakes you doat on for your favorite mess.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Armstrong.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take a pint of warm milk, and a quarter pint of thick small-beer yeast;
+strain them into a pan, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> add sufficient flour to make it like a
+batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has
+risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and an ounce of butter
+rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together; add sufficient
+flour to make it into a dough; cover it over. Let it stand half an hour;
+work it up again; break it into small pieces, roll them up quite round,
+and cover them over for a quarter of an hour, then bake them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PANCAKES" id="PANCAKES"></a>PANCAKES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">With all her haughty looks, the time I&#8217;ve seen<br />
+When the proud damsel has more humble been;<br />
+When with nice airs she hoist the <em>pancake</em> round,<br />
+And dropt it, hapless fair! upon the ground.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shenstone.</span></p>
+
+<p>To three tablespoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of white wine, four ounces of melted butter nearly cold,
+the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and a
+pint of cream. Mix it well, beating the batter for some time, and pour
+it thin over the pan.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PLUM-CAKE" id="PLUM-CAKE"></a>PLUM-CAKE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class="i10">First in place,</span><br />
+<em>Plum-cake</em> is seen o&#8217;er smaller pastry ware,<br />
+And ice on that.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Swift.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pick two pounds of currants very clean, and wash them, draining them
+through a cullender. Wipe them in a towel, spread them out in a large
+dish, and set them near the fire or in the hot sun to dry, placing the
+dish in a slanting position. Having stoned two pounds of best raisins,
+cut them in half, and when all are done, sprinkle them well with sifted
+flour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. When the
+currants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour.</p>
+
+<p>Pound the spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two nutmegs, powdered;
+sift and mix the cinnamon and nutmeg together. Mix also a large glass of
+wine and brandy, half a glass of rose-water in a tumbler or cup. Cut a
+pound of citron in slips; sift a pound of flour in a broad dish, sift a
+pound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut a pound
+of butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold for
+it to mix easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> twelve
+eggs as light as possible; stir them into the butter and sugar
+alternately with the flour; stir very hard; add gradually the spice and
+liquor. Stir the raisins and currants alternately in the mixture, taking
+care that they are well floured. Stir the whole as hard as possible, for
+ten minutes after the ingredients are in.</p>
+
+<p>Cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan with sheets of
+white paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. Then
+spread some citron on it, which must not be cut too small; next put a
+layer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till all is
+in, having a layer of mixture at the top.</p>
+
+<p>This cake will require four or five hours baking, in proportion to its
+thickness.</p>
+
+<p>Ice it next day.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="LAFAYETTE_GINGERBREAD" id="LAFAYETTE_GINGERBREAD"></a>LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Must see Rheims, much famed, &#8217;tis said,<br />
+For making kings and <em>gingerbread</em>.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Moore.</span></p>
+
+<p>Five eggs, half pound of brown sugar, half pound fresh butter, a pint of
+sugarhouse molasses, a pound and a half of flour, four tablespoonfuls of
+ginger, two large sticks of cinnamon, three dozen grains of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> allspice,
+three dozen of cloves, juice and grated peel of two lemons. Stir the
+butter and sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very well; pour the molasses
+at once into the butter and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, and
+stir all well together. Put in the eggs and flour alternately, stirring
+all the time. Stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at the
+last. When the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. Butter an
+earthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it.
+Bake it in a moderate oven an hour or more, according to its thickness,
+or you may bake it in small cakes or little tins.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SHREWSBURY_CAKES" id="SHREWSBURY_CAKES"></a>SHREWSBURY CAKES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">And here each season do <em>those cakes</em> abide,<br />
+Whose honored names the inventive city own,<br />
+Rendering through Britain&#8217;s isle Salopia&#8217;s praises known.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shenstone.</span></p>
+
+<p>Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon and a nutmeg grated, into
+three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose-water to three
+eggs well beaten; mix these with the flour, &amp;c.; then pour into it as
+much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out.</p>
+
+<p>Stir it well, and roll thin; cut it into such shapes as you like. Bake
+on tins.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="HONEY-CAKE" id="HONEY-CAKE"></a>HONEY-CAKE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">In vain the circled loaves attempt to lie<br />
+Concealed in flaskets from my curious eye;<br />
+In vain the cheeses, offspring of the pail,<br />
+Or <em>honeyed cakes</em>, which gods themselves regale.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Parnell.</span></p>
+
+<p>One pound and a half of dried sifted flour, three quarters of a pound of
+honey, half a pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound
+of citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut small, of powdered
+ginger and cinnamon, three quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with the
+honey, and mix in the other ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut it
+into small cakes of any form.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="NAPLES_BISCUITS" id="NAPLES_BISCUITS"></a>NAPLES BISCUITS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Though I&#8217;ve consulted Holinshed and Stow,<br />
+I find it very difficult to know<br />
+Who, to refresh the attendants to a grave,<br />
+Burnt claret first or <em>Naples biscuit</em> gave.<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Put three quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound of powdered
+sugar; sift both together three times; then add six eggs beaten well,
+and a spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is nearly hot, bake them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="GINGERBREAD" id="GINGERBREAD"></a>GINGERBREAD.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Whence oft with sugared cates she doth &#8217;em greet,<br />
+And <em>gingerbread</em>, if rare, now certes doubly sweet.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Shenstone.</span></p>
+
+<p>To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg strained; mix four
+ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace,
+allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce; beat all as fine as
+possible; melt one pound of butter, and mix with the above: add as much
+flour as will knead it into a pretty stiff paste; roll it out, and cut
+it in cakes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SPONGE_CAKE" id="SPONGE_CAKE"></a>SPONGE CAKE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">On <em>cake</em> luxuriously I dine,<br />
+And drink the fragrance of the vine,<br />
+Studious of elegance and ease,<br />
+Myself alone I seek to please.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take the juice and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of
+finely pounded loaf sugar, the same of dried and sifted flour; then,
+beat the yolks of ten eggs; add the sugar by degrees, and beat it till
+it will stand when dropped from the spoon; put in at separate times the
+two other eggs, yolks, and whites; whisk the ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> whites for eight
+minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and when quite stiff, take as much
+as the whisk will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, which must
+be beaten all the time; mix in lightly all the flour and grated peel,
+and pour it gradually over the whites; stir it together, and bake it in
+a large buttered tin or small ones; do not more than half fill them.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SUGAR_BISCUITS" id="SUGAR_BISCUITS"></a>SUGAR BISCUITS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">This happy hour elapsed and gone,<br />
+The time of drinking tea comes on.<br />
+The kettle filled, the water boiled,<br />
+The cream provided, the <em>biscuits</em> piled.<br />
+And lamp prepared; I straight engage<br />
+The Lilliputian equipage<br />
+Of dishes, sauces, spoons, and tongs,<br />
+And all the et ceteras which thereto belongs.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Dodsley.</span></p>
+
+<p>The weight of eight eggs in finely pounded loaf sugar, and of four in
+dried flour; beat separately the whites and yolks; with the yolks beat
+the sugar for half an hour; then add the whites and the flour, and a
+little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake them as
+French biscuits.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="DERBY_CAKE" id="DERBY_CAKE"></a>DERBY CAKE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Some bring a capon, some <em>Derby cake</em>,<br />
+Some nuts, some apples, some that think they make<br />
+The better cheesecakes, bring them.</p>
+
+<p>Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
+flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one
+egg; mix all together with half pint of milk; roll it out thin, and cut
+it into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, and
+put them into a middling heated oven for about ten minutes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CRACKNELS" id="CRACKNELS"></a>CRACKNELS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">However, you shall home with me <a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>tonight,<br />
+Forget your cares, and revel in delight;<br />
+I have in store a pint or two of wine,<br />
+Some <em>cracknels</em>, and the remnant of a chine.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Swift.</span></p>
+
+<p>Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them to a fine paste,
+adding to them by degrees six eggs, when thoroughly pounded; pour on
+them a pound of powdered sugar, the same of butter, and the rinds of two
+lemons grated; beat up these ingredients in the mortar; put a pound of
+flour on a slab, and having poured the almond paste upon it, knead<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> them
+together till they are well incorporated; roll it out, and cut the
+cracknels into such forms as you think proper; rub them with yolk of
+egg, and strew over them powdered sugar or cinnamon; then lay them on a
+buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking great care they
+do not burn.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="CHEESECAKES" id="CHEESECAKES"></a>CHEESECAKES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Treat here, ye shepherds blithe! your damsels sweet,<br />
+For pies and <em>cheesecakes</em> are for damsels meet.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Gay.</span></p>
+
+<p>Put two quarts of new milk into a stewpan; set it near the fire, and
+stir in two tablespoonfuls of rennet; let it stand till it is set (this
+will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it
+remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd
+into a cullender to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound
+it quite smooth; then add four ounces of powdered sugar, and three
+ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting
+pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together; beat the
+yolks of four eggs in a basin with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel,
+and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants
+washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> tins ready
+lined with puff paste, about a quarter of an inch thick; notch them all
+round the edge, and fill each with the curd.</p>
+
+<p>Bake them twenty minutes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BRIDE_CAKE" id="BRIDE_CAKE"></a>BRIDE CAKE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">The bridal came; great the feast,<br />
+And good the <em>bride cake</em> and the priest.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Smart.</span></p>
+
+<p>Take four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded and
+sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity of
+nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and pick four
+pounds of currants, and dry them before the fire; blanch a pound of
+sweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a
+pound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, and half pint of
+brandy; first work the butter to a cream; then beat in your sugar a
+quarter of an hour; beat the white of your eggs to a very strong froth;
+mix them with your sugar and butter; beat the yolks half an hour at
+least, and mix them with your cake; then put in your flour, mace, and
+nutmeg; keep beating it till your oven is ready; put in your brandy;
+beat the currants and almonds lightly in; tie three sheets<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> of paper
+round the bottoms of your hoops, to keep it from running out; rub it
+well with butter; put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers,
+with cake between every layer; after it is risen and colored, cover it
+with paper.</p>
+
+<p>It takes three hours baking.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="KISSES" id="KISSES"></a>KISSES.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">&#8220;I never give a <em>kiss</em>,&#8221; says Prue,<br />
+<span class="i1">&#8220;To naughty man, for I abhor it.&#8221;</span><br />
+She will not give a <em>kiss</em>, &#8217;tis true,<br />
+<span class="i1">She&#8217;ll take one, though, and thank you for it.</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">From the French.</span></p>
+
+<p>One pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted, the whites of
+four eggs, twelve drops of essence of lemon, a teacup of currant jelly.
+Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat in
+gradually the sugar, a teaspoonful at a time. Add the essence of lemon,
+and beat the whole very hard. Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom of
+a square tin pan. Drop on it at equal distances a small teaspoonful of
+currant jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of eggs
+and sugar on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on the
+mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a round<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>
+smooth shape. Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored,
+they are done. Then take them out, and place two bottoms together. Lay
+them lightly on a sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two
+bottoms stick fast together, so as to form one oval or ball.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SWEET_MACAROONS" id="SWEET_MACAROONS"></a>SWEET MACAROONS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Where <em>cakes</em> luxuriant pile the spacious dish,<br />
+<span class="i1">And purple nectar glads the festive hour,</span><br />
+The guest, without a want, without a wish,<br />
+<span class="i1">Can yield no room to music&#8217;s soothing power.</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Johnson.</span></p>
+
+<p>Blanch a pound of sweet almonds; throw them into cold water for a few
+minutes; lay them in a napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-four
+hours; at the end of that time, pound them, a handful at a time, adding
+occasionally some white of egg, till the whole is reduced to a fine
+paste; then take two pounds of the best lump sugar; pound and sift it;
+then put it to the almonds with the grated rinds of two lemons; beat
+these ingredients together in the mortar, adding, one at a time, as many
+eggs as you find necessary to moisten the paste, which should be thin,
+but not too much so, as in that case it would run; your paste being
+ready, take out a little in a spoon, and lay the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> macaroons on sheets of
+white paper, either round or oval, as you please; lay them at least an
+inch apart, because they spread in baking, and, if put nearer, would
+touch.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of your paste being used, place the sheets of paper on tins in
+a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour.</p>
+
+<p>This kind of cake requires great care.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SYLLABUB" id="SYLLABUB"></a>SYLLABUB.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Mountown! the Muses&#8217; most delicious theme,<br />
+O, may thy codlins ever swim in cream!<br />
+The rasp and strawberries in Bordeaux drown,<br />
+To add a redder tincture to their own!<br />
+Thy white wine, sugar, milk, together club,<br />
+To make that gentle viand&mdash;<em>syllabub</em>!<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Not all thy plate, how formed soe&#8217;er it be,<br />
+Can please my palate like a bowl of thee.<br />
+
+<span class="author">Barlow.</span></p>
+
+<p>In a large china bowl put a pint of port and a pint of sherry, or other
+white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full; in twenty minutes cover
+it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg; put pounded
+cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. It is very good without the nonpareil
+comfits.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BEER_OR_ALE" id="BEER_OR_ALE"></a>BEER OR ALE.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">O, Peggy, Peggy! when thou goest to brew,<br />
+Consider well what you&#8217;re about to do;<br />
+Be very wise, very sedately think<br />
+That what you&#8217;re now going to make is <em>drink</em>;<br />
+Consider who must drink that drink, and then<br />
+What &#8217;tis to have the praise of <em>honest</em> men;<br />
+For surely, Peggy, while that drink does last,<br />
+&#8217;Tis Peggy will be <em>toasted or disgraced</em>.<br />
+Then if thy <em>ale</em> in glass thou wouldst confine,<br />
+To make its sparkling rays in beauty shine,<br />
+Let thy clean bottle be entirely dry,<br />
+Lest a white substance to the surface fly,<br />
+And floating there disturb the curious eye;<br />
+But this great maxim must be understood,<br />
+&#8220;<em>Be sure, nay very sure, thy cork be good</em>.&#8221;<br />
+Then future ages shall of Peggy tell,<br />
+That nymph that <em>brewed and bottled ale so well</em>!<br />
+
+<span class="author">King.</span></p>
+
+<p>Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for
+either, pour the whole quantity of water, hot, but not boiling, on at
+once, and let it infuse three hours, close covered; mash it in the first
+half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the
+hops, previously infused in water; for beer, three quarters of a pound
+to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> bushel; if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort, two
+hours, from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful; then add three
+quarts of yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when
+ready next day; but, if possible, put together the same night. Sun, as
+usual. Cover the bunghole with paper, when the beer has done working;
+and when it is to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops,
+dried before the fire; put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up.</p>
+
+<p>Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be
+drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be
+brewed in the beginning of March. Great care must be taken that bottles
+are perfectly prepared, and <em>the corks are of the best sort</em>.</p>
+
+<p>The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the vent-peg be
+never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the last. Allow two
+gallons of water, at first, for waste.</p>
+
+<p>After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half
+for the twelve bushels; and a hogshead of water, if eight were brewed.
+Mash, and let stand; and then boil, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="ORIGIN_OF_MINT_JULEPS" id="ORIGIN_OF_MINT_JULEPS"></a>ORIGIN OF MINT JULEPS.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">&#8217;Tis said that the gods, on Olympus of old,<br />
+<span class="i1">(And who the bright legend profanes with a doubt!)</span><br />
+One night, &#8217;mid their revels, by Bacchus were told,<br />
+<span class="i1">That his last butt of nectar had somehow run out.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">But determined to send round the goblet once more,<br />
+<span class="i1">They sued to the fairer mortals for aid</span><br />
+In composing a draught, which till drinking were o&#8217;er,<br />
+<span class="i1">Should cast every wine ever drank in the shade.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Grave Ceres herself blithely yielded her corn,<br />
+<span class="i1">And the spirit that lives in each amber-hued grain,</span><br />
+And which first had its birth from the dews of the morn,<br />
+<span class="i1">Was taught to steal out in bright dew-drops again.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Pomona, whose choicest of fruits on the board<br />
+<span class="i1">Were scattered profusely, in every one&#8217;s reach,</span><br />
+When called on a tribute to cull from the hoard,<br />
+<span class="i1">Express&#8217;d the mild juice of the delicate peach.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>The liquids were mingled, while Venus looked on,<br />
+<span class="i1">With glances so fraught with sweet magical power,</span><br />
+That the honey of Hybla, e&#8217;en when they were gone,<br />
+<span class="i1">Has never been missed in the draught from that hour.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Flora then from her bosom of fragrancy shook,<br />
+<span class="i1">And with roseate fingers pressed down in the bowl,</span><br />
+All dripping and fresh as it came from the brook,<br />
+<span class="i1">The <em>herb</em> whose aroma should flavor the whole.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">The draught was delicious, each god did exclaim,<br />
+<span class="i1">Though something yet wanting they all did bewail;</span><br />
+But <em>juleps</em> the drink of immortals became,<br />
+<span class="i1">When Jove himself added a handful of hail.</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Hoffman.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PUNCH" id="PUNCH"></a>PUNCH.</h3>
+
+<p class="poem">Four elements, joined in<br />
+<span class="i1">An emulous strife,</span><br />
+Fashion the world, and<br />
+<span class="i1">Constitute life.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">From the sharp citron<br />
+<span class="i1">The starry juice pour;</span><br />
+Acid to life is<br />
+<span class="i1">The innermost core.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Now, let the sugar<br />
+<span class="i1">The bitter one meet;</span><br />
+Still be life&#8217;s bitter<br />
+<span class="i1">Tamed down with the sweet!</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Let the bright water<br />
+<span class="i1">Flow into the bowl;</span><br />
+Water, the calm one,<br />
+<span class="i1">Embraces the whole.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>Drops from the spirit<br />
+<span class="i1">Pour quick&#8217;ning within,</span><br />
+Life but its life from<br />
+<span class="i1">The spirit can win.</span></p>
+
+<p class="poem">Haste, while it gloweth,<br />
+<span class="i1">Your vessels to bring;</span><br />
+The wave has but virtue<br />
+<span class="i1">Drunk hot from the spring.</span><br />
+
+<span class="author">Translated from Schiller.</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>A la Braise, Beef, <a href="#BEEF_A_LA_BRAISE">37</a></li>
+  <li>Artichokes, <a href="#ARTICHOKES">75</a></li>
+  <li>Asparagus, <a href="#ASPARAGUS">80</a></li>
+  <li>Apple Dumplings, <a href="#APPLE_DUMPLINGS">106</a></li>
+  <li>Apple Pudding, <a href="#APPLE_PUDDING">100</a></li>
+  <li>Almond Creams, <a href="#ALMOND_CREAMS">111</a></li>
+  <li>Ale, <a href="#BEER_OR_ALE">133</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Broth, Chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_BROTH">24</a></li>
+  <li>Boiled Salmon, <a href="#BOILED_SALMON">29</a></li>
+  <li>Beef, Roast, <a href="#ROAST_BEEF">36</a></li>
+  <li>Beef, Baked with Potatoes, <a href="#BEEF_BAKED_WITH_POTATOES">38</a></li>
+  <li>Beef, Ragout, <a href="#BEEF_RAGOUT">39</a></li>
+  <li>Beef, Kidneys, <a href="#BEEF_KIDNEYS">39</a></li>
+  <li>Broiled Beefsteaks, <a href="#BROILED_BEEFSTEAKS">40</a></li>
+  <li>Beef, Salt, <a href="#SALT_BEEF">42</a></li>
+  <li>Birds, Potted, <a href="#BIRDS_POTTED">58</a></li>
+  <li>Beans, Lima, <a href="#LIMA_BEANS">75</a></li>
+  <li>Batter Pudding, <a href="#BATTER_PUDDING">105</a></li>
+  <li>Butter, <a href="#BUTTER">115</a></li>
+  <li>Bread, <a href="#BREAD">112</a></li>
+  <li>Bride Cake, <a href="#BRIDE_CAKE">128</a></li>
+  <li>Biscuits, Naples, <a href="#NAPLES_BISCUITS">123</a></li>
+  <li>Biscuits, Sugar, <a href="#SUGAR_BISCUITS">125</a></li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>Buckwheat Cakes, <a href="#BUCKWHEAT_CAKES">117</a></li>
+  <li>Beer, <a href="#BEER_OR_ALE">133</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Calf&#8217;s Liver, Roasted, <a href="#ROASTED_CALFS_LIVER">44</a></li>
+  <li>Calf&#8217;s Head, Surprised, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_SURPRISED">45</a></li>
+  <li>Calf&#8217;s Head, Roasted, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_ROASTED">46</a></li>
+  <li>Capon, <a href="#CAPON">51</a></li>
+  <li>Chicken Croquettes, <a href="#CHICKEN_CROQUETTES">51</a></li>
+  <li>Carrots, <a href="#CARROTS">81</a></li>
+  <li>Cranberry Sauce, <a href="#CRANBERRY_SAUCE">70</a></li>
+  <li>Caper Sauce, <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE">70</a></li>
+  <li>Cabbage, Pickled, <a href="#PICKLED_CABBAGE">85</a></li>
+  <li>Cocoanut Pudding, <a href="#COCOANUT_PUDDING">100</a></li>
+  <li>Charlotte des Pommes, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_DES_POMMES">104</a></li>
+  <li>Custards or Creams, <a href="#CUSTARDS_OR_CREAMS">111</a></li>
+  <li>Custards, Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARDS">110</a></li>
+  <li>Cottage Cheese, <a href="#COTTAGE_CHEESE">116</a></li>
+  <li>Cheesecakes, <a href="#CHEESECAKES">127</a></li>
+  <li>Cracknels, <a href="#CRACKNELS">126</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Derby Cakes, <a href="#DERBY_CAKE">126</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Eggs, To Poach, <a href="#TO_POACH_EGGS">91</a></li>
+  <li>Eggs, Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_EGGS">92</a></li>
+  <li>Eggs and Bread, <a href="#EGGS_AND_BREAD">93</a></li>
+  <li>Eggs, Fried, <a href="#FRIED_EGGS">93</a></li>
+  <li>Eve&#8217;s Pudding, <a href="#EVES_PUDDING">104</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Fish White, To Stew, <a href="#TO_STEW_FISH_WHITE">25</a></li>
+  <li>Fish White, Another Way to Stew, <a href="#ANOTHER_WAY_TO_STEW_FISH">26</a></li>
+  <li>Fish Brown, To Stew, <a href="#TO_STEW_FISH_BROWN">27</a></li>
+  <li>Forcemeat Balls, <a href="#FORCEMEAT_BALLS">60</a></li>
+  <li>Fowl &agrave; la Hollandaise, <a href="#FOWL_A_LA_HOLLANDAISE">49</a></li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>Fruit Pies, <a href="#FRUIT_PIES">96</a></li>
+  <li>Fritters, <a href="#FRITTERS">107</a></li>
+  <li>Fritters, Sweetmeat, <a href="#SWEETMEAT_FRITTERS">106</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Gingerbread, Lafayette, <a href="#LAFAYETTE_GINGERBREAD">121</a></li>
+  <li>Gingerbread, <a href="#GINGERBREAD">124</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Hams, To Cure, <a href="#TO_CURE_HAMS">52</a></li>
+  <li>Ham Pies, <a href="#HAM_PIES">53</a></li>
+  <li>Hare, Roasted, <a href="#ROASTED_HARE">54</a></li>
+  <li>Herbs, <a href="#TO_DRY_HERBS">82</a></li>
+  <li>Hasty Pudding, <a href="#HASTY_PUDDING">101</a></li>
+  <li>Honey Cake, <a href="#HONEY-CAKE">123</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Ice Cream, <a href="#ICE_CREAM">109</a></li>
+  <li>Indian and Rye Bread, <a href="#RYE_AND_INDIAN_BREAD">114</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Jelly, Currant, <a href="#CURRANT_JELLY">87</a></li>
+  <li>Jelly, Cherry, <a href="#CHERRY_JELLY">89</a></li>
+  <li>Jelly, Apple, <a href="#APPLE_JELLY">88</a></li>
+  <li>Jelly, Calves&#8217; feet, <a href="#CALVES_FEET_JELLY">89</a></li>
+  <li>Johnny Cakes, <a href="#JOHNNY_CAKES">118</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Ketchup, Mushroom, <a href="#MUSHROOM_KETCHUP">65</a></li>
+  <li>Kisses, <a href="#KISSES">129</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Lobster, Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_LOBSTER">30</a></li>
+  <li>Larks, <a href="#LARKS">58</a></li>
+  <li>Leeks, <a href="#LEEKS">81</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Mutton, Leg of, <a href="#LEG_OF_MUTTON">52</a></li>
+  <li>Macaroni Gratin, <a href="#MACARONI_GRATIN">63</a></li>
+  <li>Mint Sauce, <a href="#MINT_SAUCE">69</a></li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>Mushrooms, To Stew, <a href="#TO_STEW_MUSHROOMS">64</a></li>
+  <li>Mangoes, <a href="#MANGOES">84</a></li>
+  <li>Mince Pies, <a href="#MINCE_PIES">98</a></li>
+  <li>Macaroons, Sweet, <a href="#SWEET_MACAROONS">130</a></li>
+  <li>Muffins, <a href="#MUFFINS">118</a></li>
+  <li>Mint Juleps, Origin of, <a href="#ORIGIN_OF_MINT_JULEPS">135</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Naples Biscuit, <a href="#NAPLES_BISCUITS">123</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Oatmeal Pudding, <a href="#OATMEAL_PUDDING">103</a></li>
+  <li>Oysters, <a href="#OYSTERS">31</a></li>
+  <li>Oysters, Fried, <a href="#FRIED_OYSTERS">31</a></li>
+  <li>Oysters, Stewed, <a href="#STEWED_OYSTERS">32</a></li>
+  <li>Oysters, Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_OYSTERS">33</a></li>
+  <li>Oyster Loaves, <a href="#OYSTER_LOAVES">33</a></li>
+  <li>Oyster Pattie, <a href="#OYSTER_PATTIE">62</a></li>
+  <li>Ortolans, To Roast, <a href="#TO_ROAST_ORTOLANS">56</a></li>
+  <li>Onion Sauce, <a href="#ONIONS">74</a></li>
+  <li>Omelet, <a href="#OMELET">91</a></li>
+  <li>Omelette, Souffl&eacute;, <a href="#OMELETTE_SOUFFLE">94</a></li>
+  <li>Orange Custards, <a href="#ORANGE_CUSTARDS">110</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Perch with Wine, <a href="#PERCH_WITH_WINE">27</a></li>
+  <li>Patties for Fried Bread, <a href="#PATTIES_FOR_FRIED_BREAD">62</a></li>
+  <li>Pheasants, To Roast, <a href="#TO_ROAST_PHEASANTS">56</a></li>
+  <li>Potatoes, <a href="#POTATOES">76</a></li>
+  <li>Peas, <a href="#PEAS">78</a></li>
+  <li>Pineapple Preserve, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_PRESERVE">90</a></li>
+  <li>Puff Paste, <a href="#PUFF_PASTE">95</a></li>
+  <li>Pyramid Paste, <a href="#PYRAMID_PASTE">96</a></li>
+  <li>Plum Pudding, <a href="#PLUM_PUDDING">99</a></li>
+  <li>Plum Cake, <a href="#PLUM-CAKE">120</a></li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>Pancakes, <a href="#PANCAKES">119</a></li>
+  <li>Punch, <a href="#PUNCH">137</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Roasted Sturgeon, <a href="#ROASTED_STURGEON">28</a></li>
+  <li>Rabbits, Fricasseed, <a href="#FRICASEED_RABBITS">54</a></li>
+  <li>Rice, <a href="#RICE">79</a></li>
+  <li>Rye Bread, <a href="#RYE_AND_INDIAN_BREAD">114</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Soup, Turtle, <a href="#TURTLE_SOUP">21</a></li>
+  <li>Scotch Haggis, <a href="#SCOTCH_HAGGIS">41</a></li>
+  <li>Scotch Collops, <a href="#SCOTCH_COLLOPS">44</a></li>
+  <li>Salmis of Wild Duck, <a href="#SALMIS_OF_WILD_DUCK">47</a></li>
+  <li>Stewed Duck and Peas, <a href="#STEWED_DUCK_AND_PEAS">48</a></li>
+  <li>Salad, To Dress, <a href="#TO_DRESS_SALAD">73</a></li>
+  <li>Spinach, <a href="#SPINACH">79</a></li>
+  <li>Sponge Cake, <a href="#SPONGE_CAKE">124</a></li>
+  <li>Superlative Sauce, <a href="#SUPERLATIVE_SAUCE">68</a></li>
+  <li>Syllabub, <a href="#SYLLABUB">132</a></li>
+  <li>Sugar, To Clarify, <a href="#TO_CLARIFY_SUGAR">86</a></li>
+  <li>Suet Pudding, <a href="#SUET_PUDDING">103</a></li>
+  <li>Shrewsbury Cakes, <a href="#SHREWSBURY_CAKES">122</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Tongues, To Pickle, for Boiling, <a href="#TO_PICKLE_TONGUES_FOR_BOILING">43</a></li>
+  <li>Truffles, <a href="#TRUFFLES">63</a></li>
+  <li>Turkey, Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_TURKEY">50</a></li>
+  <li>Turkey, Devilled, <a href="#DEVILLED_TURKEY">50</a></li>
+  <li>Turnips, <a href="#TURNIPS">79</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Venison, <a href="#VENISON">35</a></li>
+  <li>Venison, Pasty, <a href="#VENISON_PASTY">36</a></li>
+  <li>Veal, Stewed Fillet, <a href="#STEWED_FILLET_OF_VEAL">45</a></li>
+  <li>Veal, Stuffing for, <a href="#STUFFING_FOR_VEAL">60</a></li>
+  <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>Vol au Vent, <a href="#VOL_AU_VENT">61</a></li>
+  <li>Vegetables, <a href="#VEGETABLES">72</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Woodcocks, <a href="#WOODCOCKS">57</a></li>
+  <li>Whipped Cream, <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM">109</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li>Yorkshire Pudding, <a href="#YORKSHIRE_PUDDING">102</a></li>
+  <li>Yeast, <a href="#YEAST">112</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div style="background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;">
+<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber&rsquo;s&nbsp;Note</b></p>
+
+<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors were corrected.</p>
+
+<table style="margin-left: 0%;" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="typos">
+<tr>
+  <td>Page</td>
+  <td>Error</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr1">44</a></td>
+  <td>stew the liver changed to sew the liver</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr2">Footnote 56-*</a></td>
+  <td>leur foie.&#8217; changed to leur foie.&#8221;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr3">74</a></td>
+  <td><span class="smcap">King</span> changed to <span class="smcap">King.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr4">77</a></td>
+  <td>uncover the soucepan changed to uncover the saucepan</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a href="#corr5">126</a></td>
+  <td>to night changed to tonight</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="noindent">The following words had inconsistent spelling:</p>
+
+<p class="noindent">Cawthorn / Cawthorne<br />
+fryingpan / frying-pan<br />
+lemon juice / lemon-juice<br />
+pat&eacute;s / p&acirc;t&eacute;s<br />
+peppercorns / pepper-corns<br />
+stewpan / stew-pan</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Poetical Cook-Book
+
+Author: Maria J. Moss
+
+Release Date: May 28, 2008 [EBook #25631]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POETICAL COOK-BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain material produced by
+Microsoft for their Live Search Books site.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+The original text used both symbol and numbered footnote markers. This
+text maintains the distinction. Obvious typographical errors have been
+corrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text along
+with a list of inconsistently spelled words.
+
+
+
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+    We may live without poetry, music, and art;
+    We may live without conscience and live without heart;
+    We may live without friends; we may live without books;
+    But civilized man cannot live without _cooks_.
+    He may live without books--what is knowledge but grieving?
+    He may live without hope--what is hope but deceiving?
+    He may live without love--what is passion but pining?
+    But where is the man who can live without _dining_?
+                    OWEN MEREDITH'S "LUCILE."
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                    A
+           POETICAL COOK-BOOK.
+
+                    BY
+
+    [Illustration: Author's initials]
+
+
+    "I REQUEST you will prepare
+    To your own taste the bill of fare;
+    At present, if to judge I'm able,
+    The finest works are of the table.
+    I should prefer the cook just now
+    To Rubens or to Gerard Dow."
+
+
+              PHILADELPHIA:
+
+                [Colophon]
+
+  CAXTON PRESS OF C. SHERMAN, SON & CO.
+                  1864.
+
+
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864,
+
+BY MARIA J. MOSS,
+
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+
+    "What's under this cover?
+        For cookery's a secret."--MOORE.
+
+When I wrote the following pages, some years back at Oak Lodge, as a
+pastime, I did not think it would be of service to my fellow-creatures,
+for our suffering soldiers, the sick, wounded, and needy, who have so
+nobly fought our country's cause, to maintain the flag of our great
+Republic, and to prove among Nations that a Free Republic is not a myth.
+With these few words I dedicate this book to the SANITARY FAIR to be
+held in Philadelphia, June, 1864.
+
+March, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+    Through tomes of fable and of dream
+    I sought an eligible theme;
+    But none I found, or found them shared
+    Already by some happier bard,
+    Till settling on the current year
+    I found the far-sought treasure near.
+    A theme for poetry, you see--
+    A theme t' ennoble even me,
+    In memorable forty-three.
+
+    Oh, Dick! you may talk of your writing and reading,
+    Your logic and Greek, but there is nothing like feeding.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Upon singing and cookery, Bobby, of course,
+    Standing up for the latter Fine Art in full force.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Are these the _choice dishes_ the Doctor has sent us?
+    Heaven sends us good meats, but the Devil sends cooks.
+    That my life, like the German, may be
+    "Du lit a la table, de la table au lit."--MOORE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE READER.
+
+
+    Though cooks are often men of pregnant wit,
+    Through niceness of their subject few have writ.
+    'Tis a sage question, if the art of cooks
+    Is lodg'd by nature or attain'd by books?
+    That man will never frame a noble treat,
+    Whose whole dependence lies in some _receipt_.
+    Then by pure nature everything is spoil'd,--
+    She knows no more than stew'd, bak'd, roast, and boil'd.
+    When art and nature join, the effect will be,
+    Some nice _ragout_, or _charming fricasee_.
+    What earth and waters breed, or air inspires,
+    Man for his palate fits by torturing fires.
+    But, though my edge be not too nicely set,
+    Yet I another's appetite may whet;
+    May teach him when to buy, when season's pass'd,
+    What's stale, what choice, what plentiful, what waste,
+    And lead him through the various maze of taste.
+    The fundamental principle of all
+    Is what ingenious cooks the _relish_ call;
+    For when the market sends in loads of food,
+    They all are tasteless till _that_ makes them good.
+    Besides, 'tis no ignoble piece of care,
+    To know for whom it is you would prepare.
+    You'd please a friend, or reconcile a brother,
+    A testy father, or a haughty mother;
+    Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire,
+    Or else some smiles from court you would desire;
+    Or would, perhaps, some hasty supper give,
+    To show the splendid state in which you live.
+    Pursuant to that interest you propose,
+    Must all your wines and all your meat be chose.
+    Tables should be like pictures to the sight,
+    Some dishes cast in shade, some spread in light;
+    Some at a distance brighten, some near hand,
+    Where ease may all their delicace command;
+    Some should be moved when broken, others last
+    Through the whole treat, incentive to the taste.
+    Locket, by many labors feeble grown,
+    Up from the kitchen call'd his eldest son;
+    Though wise thyself (says he), though taught by me,
+    Yet fix this sentence in thy memory:
+    There are some certain things that don't excel,
+    And yet we say are tolerably well.
+    There's many worthy men a lawyer prize,
+    Whom they distinguish as of middle size,
+    For pleading well at bar or turning books;
+    But this is not, my son, the fate of cooks,
+    From whose mysterious art true pleasure springs,
+    To stall of garters, and to throne of kings.
+    A simple scene, a disobliging song,
+    Which no way to the main design belong,
+    Or were they absent never would be miss'd,
+    Have made a well-wrought comedy be hiss'd;
+    So in a feast, no intermediate fault
+    Will be allow'd; but if not best, 'tis nought.
+    If you, perhaps, would try some dish unknown,
+    Which more peculiarly you'd make your own,
+    Like ancient sailors, still regard the coast,--
+    By venturing out too far you may be lost.
+    By roasting that which your forefathers boil'd,
+    And broiling what they roasted, much is spoil'd.
+    That cook to American palates is complete,
+    Whose savory hand gives turn to common meat.
+    Far from your parlor have your kitchen placed,
+    Dainties may in their working be disgraced.
+    In private draw your poultry, clean your tripe,
+    And from your eels their slimy substance wipe.
+    Let cruel offices be done by night,
+    For they who like the thing abhor the sight.
+    'Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please;
+    A kitchen will admit of no disease.
+    Were Horace, that great master, now alive,
+    A feast with wit and judgment he'd contrive,
+    As thus: Supposing that you would rehearse
+    A labor'd work, and every dish a verse,
+    He'd say, "Mend this and t'other line and this."
+    If after trial it were still amiss,
+    He'd bid you give it a new turn of face,
+    Or set some dish more curious in its place.
+    If you persist, he would not strive to move
+    A passion so delightful as self-love.
+    Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill,
+    Or in a prudent mixture show their skill.
+    Clog not your constant meals; for dishes few
+    Increase the appetite when choice and new.
+    E'en they who will extravagance profess,
+    Have still an inward hatred for excess.
+    Meat forced too much, untouch'd at table lies;
+    Few care for carving trifles in disguise,
+    Or that fantastic dish some call _surprise_.
+    When pleasures to the eye and palate meet,
+    That cook has render'd his great work complete;
+    His glory far, like _sirloin knighthood_[xi-1] flies
+    Immortal made, as _Kit-cat_ by his pies.
+    Next, let discretion moderate your cost,
+    And when you treat, three courses be the most.
+    Let never fresh machines your pastry try,
+    Unless grandees or magistrates are by,
+    Then you may put _a dwarf into a pie_.[xi-2]
+    Crowd not your table; let your number be
+    Not more than seven, and never less than three.
+    'Tis the _dessert_ that graces all the feast,
+    For an ill end disparages the rest.
+    A thousand things well done, and one forgot,
+    Defaces obligation by that blot.
+    Make your transparent sweetmeats truly nice
+    With Indian sugar and Arabian spice.
+    And let your various creams encircled be
+    With swelling fruit just ravish'd from the tree.
+    The feast now done, discourses are renewed,
+    And witty arguments with mirth pursued;
+    The cheerful master, 'midst his jovial friends,
+    His glass to their best wishes recommends.
+    The grace cup follows: To the President's health
+    And to the country; Plenty, Peace, and Wealth!
+    Performing, then, the piety of grace,
+    Each man that pleases reassumes his place;
+    While at his gate, from such abundant store,
+    He showers his godlike blessings on the poor.
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[xi-1] Charles I, dining one day off of a loin of beef, was so much
+pleased with it, knighted it.
+
+[xi-2] In the reign of Charles I, Jeffry Hudson (then seven or eight
+years old, and but eighteen inches in height) was served up to table in
+a cold pie at the Duke of Buckingham's, and as soon as he made his
+appearance was presented to the Queen.
+
+
+
+
+"Despise not my good counsel."
+
+MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS
+
+FOR THE USE OF THE
+
+MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
+
+
+The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and
+good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior, and,
+consequently, that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste
+may be avoided.
+
+Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct and
+propriety of female arrangement, as to the knowledge and activity of the
+father.
+
+All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness,--sugars of
+different qualities should be broken; currants washed, picked and dry in
+a jar; spice pounded, &c. Every article should be kept in that place
+best suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided. Vegetables
+will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded. Dried meats,
+hams, &c., the same. All sorts of seeds for puddings, rice, &c., should
+be close-covered, to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in a
+cool, perfectly dry room, and the bag being tied should be changed
+upside down and back every week, and well shaken. Carrots, parsnips, and
+beet-roots should be kept in sand for winter use, and neither they nor
+potatoes be cleared from the earth. Store onions preserve best hung up
+in a dry room. Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a
+musty taste. Tarragon gives the flavor of French cookery, and in high
+gravies should be added only a short time before serving.
+
+Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when
+herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent.
+
+Celery seeds give the flavor of the plant to soups. Parsley should be
+cut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very cool oven; it
+preserves its flavor and color, and is very useful in winter. Artichoke
+bottoms, which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper bags, and
+truffles, lemon-peel, &c., in a very dry place, ticketed.
+
+Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air: where the former
+are much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock-jar, to
+prevent frequent opening.
+
+Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared first, to
+preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and, when squeezed, the
+pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating.
+
+If for boiling any liquid, the first way is best. When whites of eggs
+are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to have pudding,
+custards, &c., to employ the yolks also.
+
+Gravies or soups put by, should be daily changed into fresh scalded
+pans.
+
+If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c., be suffered to boil over,
+the strength is lost.
+
+The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for the
+collared things, &c., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give
+an unpleasant flavor when next used.
+
+Hard water spoils the color of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash or salt
+of wormwood will prevent that effect.
+
+When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton come in, part of the suet
+may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will baste
+everything as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchen
+pies nothing else should be used.
+
+Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in cold
+water two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced;
+when put into hot water, or to the fire until thawed, no heat will
+dress them properly.
+
+Meat should be well examined when it comes in, in warm weather. In the
+height of the summer it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be
+salted lie an hour in cold water; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have
+ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handful
+over it besides. Turn it every day and rub the pickle in, which will
+make it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired to
+be very much corned, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, having rubbed it
+previously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit for
+table the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when the
+water boils.
+
+If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or three
+days before it be salted.
+
+The water in which meat has been boiled makes an excellent soup for the
+poor, when vegetables, oatmeal, or peas are added, and should not be
+cleared from the fat. Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine
+peas soup, and should be boiled with the peas the day before eaten, that
+the fat may be removed. The mistress of the house will find many great
+advantages in visiting her larder daily before she orders the bill of
+fare; she will see what things require dressing, and thereby guard
+against their being spoiled. Many articles may be redressed in a
+different form from that in which they are first served, an improve the
+appearance of the table without increasing the expense.
+
+In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cutting
+out most advantageously, and affording most nourishment.
+
+Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price;
+but having more solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice,
+however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed as
+palatably, and being cheaper ought to be bought in turn; and when
+weighed with the prime pieces, the price of the latter is reduced.
+
+In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be taken
+out, being apt to taint, as likewise the kernels of beef.
+
+Rumps and aitch bones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers
+give, and that part always taints: avoid purchasing such.
+
+The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and after soaking and
+bruising may be added to give richness to gravies and soups, and they
+are particularly nourishing for the sick.
+
+Calves' tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed with
+the brains, which may be served without.
+
+Some people like neats' tongues cured with the root, in which case they
+look much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must be
+cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking away
+the fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, and
+extremely well cleaned before it be dressed; and the tongue laid in salt
+for a night and day before pickled.
+
+Great attention is requisite in salting meat, and in the country, where
+great quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef and
+pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain,
+before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansing
+the meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong; it should
+be turned daily, and, if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub may be used,
+and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt will
+find it well to boil up the pickle, skim, and when cold pour it over
+meat that has been sprinkled and drained. In some families great loss is
+sustained by the spoiling of meat. If meat is brought from a distance in
+warm weather, the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bring
+it early in the morning.
+
+Mutton will keep long, by washing with vinegar the broad end of the leg;
+if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with salt lightly,
+it will not eat the worse. Game is brought in when not likely to keep a
+day, in the cook's apprehension, yet may be preserved two or three days
+if wanted, by the following method:
+
+If birds (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn), draw
+them, pick and take out the crop, wash them in two or three waters, and
+rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling
+water, put the birds in it, and let them remain five minutes, moving it,
+that it may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by the
+heads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks; when
+to be roasted, wash, to take off the pepper. The most delicate birds,
+even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid.
+
+Birds that live by suction, &c., bear being high: it is probable that
+the heat might cause them to taint more, as a free passage for the
+scalding water could not be obtained.
+
+Fresh-water fish has often a muddy taste, to take off which, soak it in
+strong salt and water; or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald in
+the same, after extremely good cleaning and washing.
+
+In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities
+may be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to the
+discretion of the persons who use them.
+
+The different taste of people requires more or less of the flavor of
+spices, garlic, butter, &c., which can never be directed by general
+rules, and if the cook has not a good taste, and attention to that of
+her employers, not all the ingredients with which nature or art can
+furnish her will give an exquisite relish to her dishes.
+
+The proper articles should be at hand, and she must proportion them
+until the true zest be obtained.
+
+March, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Poetical Cook-Book.
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+TURTLE SOUP.
+
+    Sons of Apicius! say, can Europe's seas,
+    Can aught the edible creation yield
+    Compare with _turtle_, boast of land and wave?
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+                        And, zounds! who would grudge
+    _Turtle soup_, though it came to five guineas the bowl?
+                    MOORE.
+
+The day before you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make the
+forcemeat; then, on the preceding evening, suspend the turtle by the two
+hind fins with a cord, and put one round the neck with a heavy weight
+attached to it to draw out the neck, that the head may be cut off with
+more ease; let the turtle hang all night, in which time the blood will
+be well drained from the body. Then, early in the morning, having your
+stoves and plenty of hot water in readiness, take the turtle, lay it on
+the table on its back, and with a strong pointed knife cut round the
+under shell (which is the callipee),--there are joints at each end,
+which must be carefully found,--gently separating it from the callipash
+(which is the upper shell); be careful that in cutting out the gut you
+do not break the gall. When the callipee and the callipash are perfectly
+separated, take out that part of the gut that leads from the throat;
+that with the hearts put into a basin of water by themselves, the other
+interior part put away. Take the callipee, and cut off the meat which
+adheres to it in four quarters, laying it on a clean dish. Take twenty
+pounds of veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as directed for
+espagnoles, putting in the flesh of the turtle at the same time, with
+all kinds of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and a half of lean
+ham, peppercorns, salt, and a little spice, and two bay leaves, leaving
+it to stew till it take the color of espagnole; put the fins--the skin
+scalded off--and hearts in, half an hour before you fill it, with half
+water, and half beef stock, then carefully skim it; put in a bunch of
+parsley, and let it boil gently like consomme. While the turtle is
+stewing, carefully scald the head, the callipee, and all that is soft of
+the callipash, attentively observing to take off the smallest skin that
+may remain; put them with the gut into a large pot of water to boil till
+tender; when so, take them out and cut them in squares, putting them in
+a basin by themselves till wanted for the soup. The next thing is the
+thickening of the soup, which must be prepared in the same manner as
+sauce tournee. The turtle being well done, take out the fins and hearts,
+and lay them on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass through a
+sieve into a large pan; then with a ladle take off all the fat, put it
+into a basin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small quantity at a
+time), with the thickening made the same as tournee; but it does not
+require to, neither must it, be one-twentieth part as thick. Set it over
+a brisk fire, and continue stirring till it boils. When it has boiled
+gently for one hour put in the callipee and callipash with the guts,
+hearts, and some of the best of the meat and head, all cut in squares,
+with the forcemeat balls and herbs, which you should have ready chopped
+and stewed in espagnole; the herbs and parsley, lemon, thyme, marjoram,
+basil, savory, and a few chopped mushrooms.
+
+It must be carefully attended to and skimmed, and one hour and a half
+before dinner put in a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a bottle
+of brandy, keeping it continually boiling gently, and skimming it, then
+take a basin, put a little cayenne into it, with the juice of six lemons
+squeezed through a sieve. When the dinner is wanted, skim the turtle,
+stir it well up, and put a little salt, if necessary; then stir the
+cayenne and lemon juice in, and ladle it into the tureen. This receipt
+will answer for a turtle between fifty and sixty pounds.
+
+
+CHICKEN BROTH.
+
+    The _chicken broth_ was brought at nine;
+    He then arose to ham and wine,
+    And, with a philosophic air,
+    Decided on the bill of fare.
+
+Take the remaining parts of a chicken from which panada has been made,
+all but the rump; skin, and put them into the water it was first boiled
+in, with the addition of a little mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns,
+and simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to it a quarter of an ounce of
+sweet almond beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it a little while,
+and when cold take off the fat.
+
+
+
+
+FISH.
+
+
+TO STEW FISH WHITE.
+
+    His soup scientific,--his _fishes_ quite prime;
+    His pates superb, and his cutlets sublime.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Let your fish be cleaned and salted; save your melts or kows. Cut three
+onions and parsley root, boil them in a pint of water; cut your fish in
+pieces to suit; take some clever sized pieces, cut them from the bone,
+chop them fine, mix with them the melts, crumbs of bread, a little
+ginger, one egg well beaten, leeks, green parsley, all made fine; take
+some bread, and make them in small balls; lay your fish in your stewpan,
+layer of fish and layer of onions; sprinkle with ginger, pour cold water
+over to cover your fish; let it boil till done, then lay your fish
+nicely on a dish. To make the sauce, take the juice of a large lemon and
+yolk of an egg, well beaten together, teaspoonful of flour; mix it
+gradually with half a pint of the water the fish was done in, then with
+all your water put in your balls; let it boil very quick; when done
+throw the balls and gravy over your fish.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO STEW FISH.
+
+    Behold, the dishes due appear!
+    _Fish_ in the van, beef in the rear.
+    Ah! all the luxury of fish,
+    With scalding sauce.
+
+Boil six onions in water till tender, strain, and cut them in slices.
+Put your fish, cut in slices, in a stewpan with a quart of water, salt,
+pepper, ginger and mace to suit taste; let it boil fifteen minutes; add
+the onions, and forcemeat balls made of chopped fish, grated bread,
+chopped onion, parsley, marjoram, mace, pepper, ginger and salt, and
+five eggs beat up with a spoon into balls, and drop them into the pan of
+fish when boiling; cover close for ten minutes, take it off the fire,
+and then add six eggs with the juice of five lemons; stir the gravy very
+slowly, add chopped parsley, and let it all simmer on a slow fire,
+keeping the pan in motion until it just boils, when it must be taken off
+quickly, or the sauce will break. A little butter or sweet oil added to
+the balls is an improvement. If you meet with good success in the
+cooking of this receipt, you will often have stewed fish.
+
+
+PERCH WITH WINE.
+
+    Here haddock, hake, and flounders are,
+    And eels, and _perch_, and cod.
+                    GREEN.
+
+Having scalded and taken out the gills, put the perch into a stew-pan,
+with equal quantities of stock and white wine, a bay leaf, a clove of
+garlic, a bunch of parsley, and scallions, two cloves, and some salt.
+
+When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs of which
+mix with some butter and a little flour; beat these up, set them on the
+fire, stewing till quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ball
+of anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish them with the above
+sauce.
+
+
+TO STEW FISH BROWN.
+
+                       Here stay thy haste,
+    And with the _savory fish_ indulge thy taste.
+                    GAY.
+
+Have your fish cleaned, the melts or kows being taken out whole; salt
+your fish, and let it lay half an hour. Cut your onions in slices, fry
+them with parsley-root, cut in long thin slices, in half a teacup of
+sweet oil, till they become a fine brown. Wash and dry your fish, cut it
+in pieces, put it in your stewpan, layer of fish and layer of browned
+onion, &c. Take a quart of beer, half a pint of vinegar, quarter pound
+of sugar, two tablespoonfuls powdered ginger, mixed well together, pour
+over your fish till covered. When putting your fish in the pan, split
+the head in two, and place it at the bottom, the smaller pieces on the
+top, the rows uppermost; let them cook very quick. Take out your fish,
+lay it nicely on a dish, mix a little flour in your gravy, give it a
+boil, throw it over the fish, and let it stand to cool.
+
+
+ROASTED STURGEON.
+
+    Your betters will despise you, if they see
+    Things that are far surpassing your degree;
+    Therefore beyond your substance never treat;
+    'Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat;
+    A widow has cold pie, nurse gives you cake,
+    From generous merchants ham or _sturgeon_ take.
+                    KING.
+
+Take a large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small one, clean and skin it
+properly, lard it with eel and anchovies, and marinade it in a white
+wine marmalade. Fasten it to the spit and roast it, basting frequently
+with the marinade strained. Let the fish be a nice color, and serve with
+a pepper sauce.
+
+
+BOILED SALMON.
+
+    Red speckled trouts, the _salmon's_ silver jole,
+    The jointed lobster and unscaly sole,
+    And luscious scallops to allure the tastes
+    Of rigid zealots to delicious feasts;
+    Wednesdays and Fridays, you'll observe from hence,
+    Days when our sins were doomed to abstinence.
+                    GAY.
+
+Put on a fish-kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmon
+you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well
+(boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils put in a
+handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish
+well washed, put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently.
+Salmon requires as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of an hour to a
+pound of meat; but practice can only perfect the cook in dressing
+salmon.
+
+A quarter of a salmon will take as long boiling as half a one. You must
+consider the thickness, not the weight.
+
+_Obs._ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest, and if you have a
+"grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin.
+
+Lobster sauce and rye bread should be eaten with boiled salmon.
+
+
+BOILED LOBSTER.
+
+    But soon, like _lobster boil'd_, the morn
+    From black to red began to turn.
+                    BUTLER.
+
+Those of the middle size are best. The male lobster is preferred to eat,
+and the female to make sauce of. Set on a pot with water, salted in
+proportion of a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water. When the
+water boils, put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to
+an hour, according to its size; wipe all the scum off it, and rub the
+shell with a little butter or sweet oil, break off the great claws,
+crack them carefully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered,
+and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and send
+the body whole.
+
+
+OYSTERS.
+
+    The man had sure a palate cover'd o'er
+    With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore
+    First broke the oozy _oyster's_ pearly coat,
+    And risk'd the living morsel down his throat.
+                    GAY.
+
+Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters, and
+the time of eating them, after they are opened. Nothing, however, is
+more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater.
+Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost
+perfection must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in
+the under shell. If not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and
+spirit are lost.
+
+
+FRIED OYSTERS.
+
+    You shapeless nothing, in a dish!
+    You, that are but almost a fish!
+                    COWPER.
+
+The largest and finest oysters should be chosen for frying. Simmer them
+in their own liquor for a couple of minutes; take them out, and lay them
+on a cloth to drain; beard them, and then flour them, egg and breadcrumb
+them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown.
+
+A much better way is to beat the yolks of eggs, and mix with the grated
+bread, a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace, and a little salt.
+Having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them
+in lard, till they are a light brown color. Take care not to do them too
+much. Serve them up hot. For grated bread, some substitute crackers
+pounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice.
+
+
+STEWED OYSTERS.
+
+    By nerves about our palate placed,
+    She likewise judges of the taste.
+    Who would ask for her opinion
+    Between an _oyster_ and an onion?
+                    DONNE.
+
+Stew with a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, a glass of
+white wine, one anchovy bruised, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a
+little mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let all stew gently an hour, or
+three quarters. Pick out the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter pound of
+fresh butter kneaded in a large tablespoonful of flour, and stew them
+ten or twelve minutes.
+
+Serve them garnished with bread sippets and cut lemon. They may be
+stewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper, and
+grated nutmeg, and thickened with cream, flour, and butter.
+
+
+OYSTER LOAVES.
+
+    _'Tis no one thing_; it is not fruit, nor root,
+    Nor poorly limited with head or foot.
+                    DONNE.
+
+Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, take out the crumb, fry
+them brown and crisp with clarified butter, then fry some breadcrumbs;
+stew the requisite quantity of oysters, bearded and cut in two, in their
+liquor, with a little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned with grated
+lemon-peel, powdered mace, pepper and salt; add a bit of butter, fill
+the rolls with oysters, and serve them with the fried breadcrumbs in a
+dish.
+
+
+SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
+
+    What will not luxury taste? Earth, sea, and air,
+    Are daily ransack'd for the bills of fare.
+                    GAY.
+
+Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes,
+take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit
+of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, add as much fine
+breadcrumbs as will dry it up; then put to it the oyster liquor, and
+give it a boil up; put the oysters into scallop shells that you have
+buttered, and strewed with breadcrumbs, then a layer of oysters, then
+breadcrumbs, and then again oysters; moisten it with the oyster liquor,
+cover them with breadcrumbs, put about half a dozen little bits of
+butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven.
+
+Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and other
+spices are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavor of
+the oyster.
+
+
+
+
+MEATS.
+
+
+VENISON.
+
+    Thanks, my lord, for your _venison_; for finer or fatter
+    Never ranged in a forest or smoked in a platter.
+    The haunch was a picture for painters to study,
+    The fat was so white, and the lean was so ruddy.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+The haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quarters
+roasting. Put a coarse paste of brown flour and water, and a paper over
+that, to cover all the fat; baste it well with dripping, and keep it at
+a distance, to get hot at the bones by degrees. When near done, remove
+the covering, and baste it with butter, and froth it up before you
+serve. Gravy for it should be put in a boat, and not in the dish (unless
+there be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from two
+or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a
+gridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side; put them in a
+saucepan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour, and
+gently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to a
+pint. Season only with salt.
+
+
+VENISON PASTY.
+
+    And now that I think on't, as I am a sinner!
+    We wanted this venison to make out the dinner.
+    What say you? a _pasty_! it shall and it must,
+    And my wife, little Kitty, is famous for crust.
+    "What the de'il, mon, a pasty!" re-echoed the Scot.
+    "Though splitting, I'll still keep a corner for that."
+    "We'll all keep a corner," the lady cried out;
+    "We will all keep a corner!" was echoed about.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Cut a neck or breast into small steaks, rub them over with a seasoning
+of sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; fry them slightly in
+butter. Line the sides and edges of a dish with puff paste, lay in the
+steaks, and add half a pint of rich gravy, made with the trimmings of
+the venison; add a glass of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon or
+teaspoonful of vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and bake it
+nearly two hours; some more gravy may be poured into the pie before
+serving it.
+
+
+ROAST BEEF.
+
+    And aye a rowth, a _roast beef_ and claret:
+          Syne wha wad starve!
+                    BURNS.
+
+The noble sirloin of about fifteen pounds will require to be before the
+fire about three and a half to four hours; take care to spit it evenly,
+that it may not be heavier on one side than on the other; put a little
+clean dripping into the dripping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over to
+preserve the fat); baste it well as soon as it is put down, and every
+quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour;
+then take off the paper and make some gravy for it. Stir the fire, and
+make it clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it,
+baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes
+longer till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, and serve
+it.
+
+
+BEEF A LA BRAISE.
+
+    In short, dear, "a Dandy" describes what I mean,
+    And Bob's far the best of the gems I have seen,
+    But just knows the names of French dishes and cooks,
+    As dear Pa knows the titles and authors of books;
+    Whose names, think how quick! he already knows pat,
+    _A la braise_, petit pates, and--what d'ye call that
+    They inflict on potatoes? Oh! maitre d'hotel.
+    I assure you, dear Dolly, he knows them as well
+    As if nothing but these all his life he had eat,
+    Though a bit of them Bobby has never touched yet.
+    I can scarce tell the difference, at least as to phrase,
+    Between _beef a la Psyche_ and _curls a la braise_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Bone a rump of beef, lard it very thickly with salt pork seasoned with
+pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice, and season the beef with
+pepper and salt; put some slices of bacon into the bottom of the pan,
+with some whole black pepper, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves,
+two onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put in the
+beef, and lay over it some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak stock,
+and half a pint of white wine. Cover it closely, and let it stew between
+six and seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of part of the liquor it
+has been stewed in, strained, and thickened with a little flour and
+butter, adding some green onions cut small, and pickled mushrooms. Pour
+it over the beef.
+
+
+BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES.
+
+                The funeral _bak'd meats_
+    Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in a mortar with two small
+onions; moisten them with milk and an egg beaten up, add a little salt
+and pepper. Season slices of beef or mutton-chops with salt and pepper,
+and more onion, if the flavor is approved. Rub the bottom of a
+pudding-dish with butter, and put a layer of the mashed potatoes, which
+should be as thick as a batter, and then a layer of meat, and so on
+alternately till the dish is filled, ending with potatoes. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour.
+
+
+BEEF RAGOUT.
+
+    Is there, then, that o'er his _French ragout_,
+    Looks down wi' sneering, scornful view,
+                              On sic a dinner?
+                    BURNS.
+
+Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it, pour
+over it a little boiling water, about a pint of small-beer, add a carrot
+or two, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a piece of
+lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew an hour, then add some
+good gravy; when the meat is tender take it out and strain the sauce;
+thicken it with a little flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a
+little ketchup, put in the meat; just simmer it up.
+
+
+BEEF KIDNEYS.
+
+    Or one's _kidney_,--imagine, Dick,--done with champagne.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cut
+it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine; dust it with flour. Put some
+butter into a stewpan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put in
+the minced kidneys. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle on
+a little salt and cayenne, and pour in a very little boiling water. Add
+a glass of champagne, or other wine, or a large teaspoonful of mushroom
+ketchup or walnut pickle; cover the pan closely, and let it stew till
+the kidney is tender. Send it to table hot, in a covered dish. It is
+eaten generally at breakfast.
+
+
+BROILED BEEFSTEAKS.
+
+    _Time was_, when John Bull little difference spied
+    'Twixt the foe at his feet or the friend at his side;
+    When he found, such his humor in fighting and eating,
+    His foe, like _beefsteak_, the sweeter for beating.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well,
+    It were done quickly.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Cut the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore quarter. Have the
+gridiron perfectly clean, and heated over a clear quick fire, lay on the
+steaks, and with meat-tongs, keep turning them constantly, till they are
+done enough; throw a little salt over them before taking them off the
+fire. Serve as hot as possible, plain or with a made gravy and sliced
+onions, or rub a bit of butter on the steaks the moment of serving.
+Mutton-chops are broiled in the same manner.
+
+
+SCOTCH HAGGIS.
+
+    Fair fa' your honest sonsie face,
+    Great chieftain o' the puddin' race;
+    Aboon them a' ye tak your place,
+              Painch, tripe, or thairm,
+    Weel are ye wordy of a grace
+              As langs my arm.
+    His knife see rustic labor dight,
+    An' cut you up with ready slight,
+    Trenching your gushing entrail bright
+              Like onie ditch,
+    And then, O! what a glorious sight,
+              Warm reekin' rich.
+    Ye powers wha mak mankind your care,
+    And dish them out their bill of fare,
+    Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware
+              That jaups in luggies,
+    But if ye wish her grateful pray'r,
+              Gie her a _Haggis_.
+                    BURNS.
+
+Make the haggis bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liver
+very well, so as it will grate, dry the meal before the fire, mince the
+draught and a pretty large piece of beef, very small; grate about half
+the liver, mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these
+materials very well together with a handful or two of the dried meal;
+spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed
+spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and
+some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin
+(_i. e._ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into
+the bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; put out all the wind
+before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put
+it in a cloth.
+
+If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling.
+
+N. B. The above is a receipt from Mrs. MacIver, a celebrated Caledonian
+professor of the culinary art, who taught and published a book of
+cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787.
+
+
+SALT BEEF.
+
+    The British fleet, which now commands the main,
+    Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain,
+    Would they take time, would they with leisure work,
+    With care would _salt their beef_, and cure their pork.
+    There is no dish, but what _our_ cooks have made
+    And merited a charter by their trade.
+                    KING.
+
+Make a pickle of rock salt and cold water strong enough to bear an egg,
+let a little salt remain in the bottom of the tub; two quarts of
+molasses and a quarter pound of saltpetre is sufficient for a cwt. of
+beef. It is fit for use in ten days. Boil the beef slowly until the
+bones come out easily, then wrap it in a towel, and put a heavy weight
+on it till cold.
+
+
+TO PICKLE TONGUES FOR BOILING.
+
+              Silence is commendable only
+    In a _neat's tongue_ dried.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle some
+salt, and let it drain till next day; then for each tongue, mix a large
+spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half as
+much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every day. In a week add
+another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, a tongue will be
+ready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle daily, it will
+keep four or five weeks without being too salt. Smoke them or plainly
+dry them, if you like best. When to be dressed, boil it extremely
+tender; allow five hours, and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The
+longer kept after drying, the higher it will be; if hard, it may require
+soaking three or four hours.
+
+
+ROASTED CALF'S LIVER.
+
+    Pray a slice of your _liver_.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Wash and wipe it, then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs
+of bread, chopped, an anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt,
+pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; sew the liver up, lard it, wrap it
+in a veal caul, and roast it. Serve with good brown gravy and currant
+jelly.
+
+
+SCOTCH COLLOPS.
+
+          A cook has mighty things professed;
+    Then send us but two dishes nicely dressed,--
+    One called _Scotch Collops_.
+                    KING.
+
+Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over and rather round, beat
+with a rolling-pin; grate a little nutmeg over them; dip in the yolk of
+an egg, and fry them in a little butter of a fine brown; have ready,
+warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a little bit of butter
+rubbed into a little flour, to which put the yolk of an egg, two large
+spoonfuls of cream, and a little salt.
+
+Do not boil the sauce, but stir until of a fine thickness to serve with
+the collops.
+
+
+STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+                      In truth, I'm confounded
+    And bothered, my dear, 'twixt that troublesome boy's
+    (Bob's) cookery language, and Madame Le Roi's.
+    What with fillets of roses and _fillets of veal_,
+    Things garni with lace, and things garni with eel,
+    One's hair and one's cutlets both en papillote,
+    And a thousand more things I shall ne'er have by rote.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast and then stew it with
+two quarts of white stock, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and one of
+mushroom ketchup. Before serving strain the gravy, thicken it with
+butter rolled in flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some pickled
+mushrooms; heat it and pour it over the veal. Have ready two or three
+dozen forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cut
+lemon.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD SURPRISED.
+
+    And the dish set before them,--O dish well devised!--
+    Was what Old Mother Glasse calls "_a calf's head surprised_."
+                    MOORE.
+
+Clean and blanch a calf's head, boil it till the bones will come out
+easily, then bone and press it between two dishes, so as to give it a
+headlong form; beat it with the yolks of four eggs, a little melted
+butter, pepper and salt. Divide the head when cold, and brush it all
+over with the beaten eggs, and strew over it grated bread, which is put
+over one half; a good quantity of finely minced parsley should be mixed;
+place the head upon a dish, and bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it
+with a sauce of parsley and butter, and with one of good gravy, mixed
+with the brains, which have been previously boiled, chopped, and
+seasoned with a little cayenne and salt.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD ROASTED.
+
+    Good L--d! to see the various ways
+    Of dressing a calf's head.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+Wash and clean it well, parboil it, take out the bones, brains, and
+tongue; make forcemeat sufficient for the head, and some balls with
+breadcrumbs, minced suet, parsley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal
+or cold fowl; season with salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it
+with an egg beaten up; fill the head with it, which must then be sewed
+up, or fastened with skewers and tied; while roasting baste it well with
+butter; beat up the brains with a little cream, the yolk of an egg, some
+minced parsley, a little pepper and salt; blanch the tongue and cut it
+into slices, and fry it with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin
+slices of bacon.
+
+Serve the head with white or brown thickened gravy, and place the tongue
+and forcemeat balls round it. Garnish with cut lemon. It will require
+one hour and a half to roast.
+
+
+SALMIS OF WILD DUCK.
+
+    Long as, by bayonets protected, we Watties
+    May have our full fling at their _salmis_ and pates.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Cut off the best parts of a couple of roasted wild ducks, and put the
+rest of the meat into a mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley,
+some pepper, and a bay leaf; pound all these ingredients well, and then
+put into a saucepan, with four ladlesful of stock, half a glass of white
+wine, the same of broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce these to
+half, strain them, and having laid the pieces on a dish, cover them with
+the above; keep the whole hot, not boiling, until wanted for table.
+
+
+STEWED DUCK AND PEAS.
+
+    I give thee all my kitchen lore,
+      Though poor the offering be;
+    I'll tell thee how 'tis cooked, before
+      You come to dine with me.
+    The duck is truss'd from head to heels,
+      Then stew'd with butter well,
+    And streaky bacon, which reveals
+      A most delicious smell.
+
+    When duck and bacon, in a mass,
+      You in a stewpan lay,
+    A spoon around the vessel pass,
+      And gently stir away;
+    A tablespoonful of flour bring,
+      A quart of water plain,
+    Then in it twenty onions fling,
+      And gently stir again.
+
+    A bunch of parsley, and a leaf
+      Of ever verdant bay,
+    Two cloves,--I make my language brief,--
+      Then add your peas you may;
+    And let it simmer till it sings
+      In a delicious strain;
+    Then take your duck, nor let the strings
+      For trussing it remain.
+
+    The parsley fail not to remove,
+      Also the leaf of bay;
+    Dish up your duck,--the sauce improve
+      In the accustom'd way,
+    With pepper, salt, and other things
+      I need not here explain;
+    And if the dish contentment brings,
+      You'll dine with me again.
+
+
+FOWL A LA HOLLANDAISE.
+
+    Our courtier walks from dish to dish,
+    Tastes from his friends of _fowl_ and fish,
+    Tells all their names, lays down the law,
+    "Que ca est bon." "Ah! goutez ca."
+                    POPE.
+
+Make a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity of minced suet, an
+onion, or a few oysters and some boiled parsley, season with pepper,
+salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg beaten up to bind it. Bone the
+breast of a good sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, cover the fowl
+with a piece of white paper buttered, and roast it half an hour; make a
+thick batter of flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and pour some
+of the batter over the fowl; as soon as it becomes dry, add more, and do
+this till it is all crusted over and a nice brown color, serve it with
+melted butter and lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy.
+
+
+BOILED TURKEY.
+
+    But man, cursed man, on _turkeys_ preys,
+    And Christmas shortens all our days.
+    Sometimes with oysters we combine,
+    Sometimes assist the savory chine.
+    From the low peasant to the lord,
+    The _turkey_ smokes on every board.
+                    GAY.
+
+Make a stuffing of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, a few
+oysters, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg; put this into the crop,
+fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make it
+very white. Have ready some oyster sauce made rich with butter, a little
+cream, and a spoonful of soy, and serve over the turkey.
+
+
+DEVILLED TURKEY.
+
+    And something's here with name uncivil,
+    For our cook christens it "_A Devil_,"
+    "_A Devil_, in any shape, sweet maid,
+    A parson fears not," Syntax said;
+    "I'll make him minced meat; 'tis my trade."
+
+Take cold roast turkey legs, score them well, season them with salt and
+plenty of cayenne pepper and mustard, then broil them. Serve them
+_hot_.
+
+
+CAPON.
+
+    In good roast beef my landlord sticks his knife,
+    The _capon_ fat delights his dainty wife.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take a quart of white wine, season the capon with salt, cloves, and
+whole pepper, a few shallots, and then put the capon in an earthen pan;
+you must take care it has not room to shake; it must be covered close,
+and done over a slow charcoal fire.
+
+
+CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
+
+    Gargilius, sleek, voluptuous lord,
+    A hundred dainties smoke upon his board;
+    Earth, air, and ocean ransack'd for the feast,
+    In masquerade of foreign olios dress'd.
+                    WARTON.
+
+Reduce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tournee, and add to the yolks
+of four eggs; put to this the white meat of a chicken, minced very
+small, and well mixed with the sauce; take it out, and roll it into
+balls, about the size of a walnut; roll them in breadcrumbs, giving them
+an elongated form; then beat them in some well-beaten egg; bread them
+again, and fry them of a light brown.
+
+
+LEG OF MUTTON.
+
+    But hang it, to poets, who seldom can eat,
+    Your very good _mutton's_ a very good treat.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm water
+for ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let it
+simmer very gently, and skim it carefully; a leg of nine pounds will
+take two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done,
+especially in very cold weather.
+
+The liquor the mutton is boiled in, you may convert into good soup in
+five minutes, and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a leg of mutton is
+a most economical joint.
+
+
+TO CURE HAMS.
+
+    Or urged thereunto by the woes he endured,
+    The way to be _smoked_, is the way to be _cured_.
+                    ANONYMOUS.
+
+    But to the fading palate bring relief,
+    By the _Westphalian ham_ or Belgic beef.
+                    KING.
+
+When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix an ounce of
+saltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt,
+ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together,
+and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the pickle
+for three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento in finest
+powder, added to the above, will give still more flavor. Cover with bran
+when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; the
+latter will make it harder, and more of the flavor of Westphalia. Sew
+hams in hessings, _i. e._ coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is
+a strong fire.
+
+
+HAM PIES.
+
+    Each mortal has his pleasure; none deny
+    Scarsdale his bottle, Darby his _ham pie_.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Take two pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling sized pieces,
+season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or
+dressed ham, cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some
+forced or sausage meat at the top, with some stewed mushrooms, and the
+yolks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as
+with rumpsteak pie.
+
+N. B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops,
+and the chine bone taken away.
+
+
+ROASTED HARE.
+
+    Turkey and fowl, and ham and chine,
+    On which the cits prefer to dine,
+    With partridge, too, and eke a _Hare_,
+    The luxuries of country fare,
+    She nicely cooked with bounteous care.
+
+Cut the skin from a hare that has been well soaked, put it on the spit,
+and rub it well with Madeira, pricking it in various places that it may
+imbibe plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a paste, and roast it.
+When done, take away the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, sprinkle
+breadcrumbs, and baste it gently with butter (still keeping it turning
+before the fire), until a crust is formed over it, and it is of a nice
+brown color; dish it over some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled in it;
+two or three cloves may be stuck into the knuckles, if you think proper.
+
+
+FRICASEED RABBITS.
+
+    Your _rabbits fricaseed_ and chicken,
+    With curious choice of dainty picking,
+    Each night got ready at the Crown,
+    With port and punch to wash 'em down.
+                    LLOYD.
+
+Take two fine white rabbits, and cut them in pieces; blanch them in
+boiling water, and skim them for one minute; stir a few trimmings of
+mushrooms in a stewpan over the fire, with a bit of butter, till it
+begins to fry, then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the flour, a
+little at a time, nearly a quart of good consomme, which set on the
+fire, and when it boils put the rabbits in, and let them boil gently
+till done; then put them in another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till
+nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half a pint of good boiling
+cream, and when it becomes the thickness of bechamelle sauce in general,
+squeeze it through the tammy to the rabbits; make it very hot, put in a
+few mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, a little cream, and then serve it to
+table.
+
+
+
+
+BIRDS.
+
+
+TO ROAST PHEASANTS.
+
+    Little birds fly about with the _true pheasant taint_,
+    And the geese are all born with the liver[56-*] complaint.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the head part, mix them with salt
+and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the other
+ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and cover
+the birds with them, then wrap them in sheets of paper well buttered,
+put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear fire.
+
+
+TO ROAST ORTOLANS.
+
+    With all the luxury of statesmen dine,
+    On daily feasts of _ortolans_ and wine.
+                    CAWTHORN.
+
+Put into every bird an oyster, or a little butter mixed with some
+finely sifted breadcrumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewer
+through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or fresh
+butter. They will be done in ten minutes. Reed birds are very fine made
+into little dumplings with a thin crust of flour and butter, and boiled
+about twenty minutes. Each must be tied in a separate cloth.
+
+
+WOODCOCKS.
+
+    And as for your juries--who would not set o'er them
+    A jury of tasters, with _woodcocks_ before them?
+                    MOORE.
+
+Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of "haut
+gout" considered a "bonne bouche." Truss their legs close to the body,
+and run an iron skewer through each thigh, and put them to roast before
+the fire; toast a slice of bread for each bird, lay them in the
+dripping-pan under the bird to catch the trail; baste them with butter,
+and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on
+the toast; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and send some up in
+a boat. Twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Some epicures like
+this bird very much underdone, and direct that the woodcock should be
+just introduced to the cook, for her to show it to the fire, then send
+it to table.
+
+
+BIRDS POTTED.
+
+     "It tastes of the _bird_, however," said the old woman, "and she
+     cooked the _rail of the fence_ on which the crow had been sitting."
+
+When birds have come a great way, they often smell so bad that they can
+scarcely be borne from the rankness of the butter, by managing them in
+the following manner, they may be as good as ever. Set a large saucepan
+of clean water on the fire, when it boils take off the butter at the
+top, then take the fowls out one by one, throw them in the saucepan of
+water half a minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth inside and out,
+continue till they are all done; scald the pot clean, when the birds are
+quite cold, season them with mace, pepper, and salt according to taste,
+put them down close in a pot, and pour clarified butter over them.
+
+
+LARKS.
+
+    What say you, lads? is any spark
+    Among you ready for a _lark_?
+                    MOORE.
+
+These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When they
+are thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed, truss them; do them over
+with the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in breadcrumbs; spit them
+on a lark spit; ten or fifteen minutes will be sufficient time to roast
+them in, before a quick fire; whilst they are roasting, baste them with
+fresh butter, and sprinkle them with breadcrumbs till they are well
+covered with them. Fry some grated bread in butter. Set it to drain
+before the fire, that it may harden; serve the crumbs in the dish under
+the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[56-*] The process by which the liver of the unfortunate goose is
+enlarged, in order to produce that richest of all dainties, _the foie
+gras_, of which such renowned pates are made at Strasbourg and Toulouse,
+is thus described in the "Cours Gastronomique:" "On deplumes l'estomac
+des oies; on attache ensuite ces animaux aux chenets d'une cheminee, et
+on le nourrit devant le feu. La captivite et la chaleur donnent a ces
+volatiles une maladie hepatique, qui fait gonfler leur foie."
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS.
+
+
+STUFFING FOR VEAL.
+
+    Poor Roger Fowler, who'd a generous mind,
+    Nor would submit to have his hand confined,
+    But aimed at all,--yet never could excel
+    In anything but _stuffing of his veal_.
+
+Good stuffing has always been considered a chief thing in cookery. Mince
+a quarter of a pound of beef suet or marrow, the same weight of
+breadcrumbs, two drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet
+marjoram or lemon thyme, and the same of grated lemon-peel and onion
+chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt; pound thoroughly
+together with the yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it in the veal
+with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread.
+
+
+FORCEMEAT BALLS.
+
+    And own they gave him a lively notion,
+    What his own _forced meat balls_ would be.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take an equal quantity of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred, beat
+them in a marble mortar, add pepper, salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel,
+and nutmeg grated, parsley, and sweet herbs chopped fine, a little
+shallot and young onion, a few breadcrumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg,
+sufficient to work it light; roll this into balls with a little flour,
+and fry them.
+
+
+VOL AU VENT.
+
+    Boy, tell the cook I love all nicknackeries,
+    Fricasees, _vol au vents_, puffs, and gimcrackeries.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Roll off tart paste till about the eighth of an inch thick, then with a
+tin cutter made for that purpose cut out the shape (about the size of
+the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), lay it on a
+baking-plate with paper, rub the paste over with the yolk of an egg.
+Roll out good puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter,
+and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and
+press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with
+yolk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a
+light-brown color when done; take out the paste inside the centre mark,
+preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted
+fill it with a white fricasee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread,
+or any other entree you wish. Serve hot.
+
+
+OYSTER PATTIE.
+
+     _De Beringhen._ In the next room there's a delicious pate, let's
+     discuss it.
+
+     _Baradas._ Pshaw! a man filled with a sublime ambition has no time
+     to discuss your pates.
+
+     _De Beringhen._ Pshaw! and a man filled with as sublime a pate has
+     no time to discuss ambition. Gad, I have the best of it.
+                    BULWER'S RICHELIEU.
+
+Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor and add them to it. Cut
+into thin slices the kidney-fat of a loin of veal; season them with
+white pepper, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the bottom
+of a pie-dish, put in the oysters and liquor, with a little more
+seasoning; put over them the marrow of two bones. Lay a border of puff
+paste around the edge of the dish, cover it with paste, and bake it
+nearly three quarters of an hour.
+
+
+PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD.
+
+    Seducing young pates, as ever could cozen
+    One out of one's appetite, down by the dozen.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or round pieces, nearly
+three inches high, and cut bits the same width for tops. Mark them
+neatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light-brown color in clarified
+beef-dripping or fine lard; scoop out the inside crumb; take care not to
+go too near the bottom; fill them with mince-meat prepared as for
+patties, with stewed oysters or with sausage meat; put on the tops, and
+serve them on a napkin.
+
+
+MACARONI GRATIN.
+
+    Where so ready all nature its cookery yields,
+    _Macaroni au Parmesan_ grows in the fields.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Lay fried bread pretty closely round a dish; boil your macaroni in the
+usual way, and pour it into the dish; smooth it all over, and strew
+breadcrumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese;
+drop a little melted butter on it, and put it in the oven to brown.
+
+
+TRUFFLES.
+
+    What will not _Luxury taste_? _Earth_, sea and air
+    Are daily ransacked for the bill of fare.
+                    GAY.
+
+The truffle, like the mushroom, is a species of fungus, common in France
+and Italy; it is generally about eight to ten inches below the surface
+of the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much used in
+cookery.
+
+Being dug out of the earth, it requires a great deal of washing and
+brushing. It loses much of its flavor when dried.
+
+
+TO STEW MUSHROOMS.
+
+    Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go,
+    That he might taste their soups and _mushrooms_ know.
+                    KING.
+
+Take a pint of white stock; season it with salt, pepper, and a little
+lemon pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled in flour; clean and
+peel the mushrooms, sprinkle them with a very little salt, boil them for
+three minutes; put them into the gravy when it is hot, and stew them for
+fifteen minutes.
+
+
+
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+MUSHROOM KETCHUP.
+
+                              If you please,
+    I'll taste your tempting toasted cheese,
+    Broiled ham, and nice _mushroom'd ketchup_.
+
+If you love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, after the
+following directions, and you will have a delicious relish for made
+dishes, ragouts, soup, sauces, or hashes. Mushroom gravy approaches the
+nature and flavor of made gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is
+the superlative substitute for it; in meagre soups and extempore
+gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably
+awaken the palate and encourage the appetite.
+
+A couple quarts of double ketchup, made according to the following
+receipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of
+time and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce as
+can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. I believe the following is
+the best way for preparing and extracting the essence of mushrooms, so
+as to procure and preserve their flavor for a considerable length of
+time.
+
+Look out for mushrooms, from the beginning of September. Take care of
+the right sort and fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps are to be preferred.
+Put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle
+them with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and some more salt on
+them, and so on, alternately, salt and mushrooms; let them remain two or
+three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms,
+and rendered them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or mash
+them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not
+longer, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day; then pour them
+into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole
+black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close,
+and set in a stewpan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours
+at least.
+
+Take out the jar, and pour the juice, clear from the settlings, through
+a hair sieve (without squeezing the mushrooms), into a clean stewpan;
+let it boil very gently for half an hour. Those who are for superlative
+ketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced to
+half the quantity. There are several advantages attending this
+concentration: it will keep much better, and only half the quantity
+required; so you can flavor sauce, &c., without thinning it; neither is
+this an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part is
+evaporated. Skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; cover
+it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day; then pour it
+off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the
+bottom of the jug), through a tamis or thick flannel bag, till it is
+perfectly clear; add a tablespoonful of good brandy to each pint of
+ketchup, and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment will be deposited,
+from which the ketchup is to be quietly poured off and bottled in pints
+or half pints (which have been washed in brandy or spirits). It is best
+to keep it in such quantities as are soon used.
+
+Take especial care that it is closely corked and sealed down. If kept in
+a cool dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but if it be
+badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil.
+
+Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck
+of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again
+with a few peppercorns.
+
+
+SUPERLATIVE SAUCE.
+
+    Who praises, in this _sauce enamor'd_ age,
+    Calm, healthful temperance, like an Indian sage?
+                    WARTON.
+
+Claret or Port wine and mushroom ketchup, a pint of each; half a pint of
+walnut or other pickle liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh
+lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and sliced eschalots, the
+same; scraped horseradish, ditto; allspice and black pepper, powdered,
+half an ounce each; cayenne, one drachm, or curry powder, three drachms;
+celery seed, bruised, one drachm; all avoirdupois weight. Put these into
+a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it every day for a
+fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the addition of
+a quarter of a pint of soy or thick browning), and you will have "a
+delicious double relish." Dr. Kitchener says, this composition is one of
+the chefs d'oeuvres of many experiments he has made, for the purpose
+of enabling good housewives to prepare their own sauces; it is equally
+agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragouts, &c.; and as a fair lady
+may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, that all
+the ingredients are good and wholesome.
+
+_Obs._ Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of the
+substances necessary to make sauce; the above composition of the several
+articles from which the various gravies derive their flavor, will be
+found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large
+tablespoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, or
+broth, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly
+equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual nerves into good
+humor as anything I know.
+
+
+MINT SAUCE.
+
+    "Live bullion," says merciless Bob, "which I think
+    Would, if coined with a little _mint sauce_, be delicious."
+                    MOORE.
+
+Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to this
+add one-third the quantity of parsley), pick the leaves from the stalks,
+mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with a teaspoonful
+of moist sugar and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
+
+
+CRANBERRY SAUCE.
+
+    Our fathers most admired their _sauces sweet_,
+    And often asked for sugar _with their meat_.
+                    KING.
+
+Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with just
+about a teacup of water; stew them slowly and stir them frequently,
+particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal of
+stewing, and should be like marmalade when done. When they are broken
+and the juice comes out, stir in a pound of white sugar. When they are
+thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them away to get
+cold. You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould,
+and when it is a firm shape send it to table.
+
+Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast fowl, turkey, &c.
+
+
+CAPER SAUCE.
+
+                          Along these shores
+    Neglected trade with difficulty toils,
+    Collecting slender stores; the sun-dried grape,
+    Or _capers_ from the rock, that prompt the taste
+    Of luxury.
+                    DYER.
+
+To make a quarter of a pint, take a tablespoonful of capers and two
+teaspoonfuls of vinegar. The present fashion of cutting capers is to
+mince one-third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put
+them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened gravy;
+stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil.
+Some boil and mince fine a few leaves of parsley or chevrel or tarragon,
+and add to the sauce; others, the juice of half a Seville orange or
+lemon.
+
+
+
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+    Grateful and salutary Spring! the _plants_
+    Which crown thy numerous gardens, and invite
+    To health and temperance, in the simple meal,
+    Unstain'd with murder, undefil'd with blood,
+    Unpoison'd with rich sauces, to provoke
+    The unwilling appetite to gluttony.
+    For this, the _bulbous esculents_ their roots
+    With sweetness fill; for this, with cooling juice
+    The green herb spreads its _leaves_; and opening _buds_
+    And _flowers_ and _seeds_ with various flavors tempts
+    Th' ensanguined palate from its savage feast.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+
+As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to the
+largest or smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full of flavor,
+just before they are quite full grown. Freshness is their chief value
+and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animal alive,
+as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead.
+
+To boil them in soft water will preserve the color best of such as are
+green; if you have only hard water, put to it a teaspoonful of carbonate
+of potash.
+
+Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, and
+insects. This requires great attention.
+
+If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, make
+it boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before you
+put in the greens, &c., which should not be put in till the water boils
+briskly; the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When the
+vegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has been
+kept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will lose
+their color and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly before
+you send them to table.
+
+This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention.
+
+
+TO DRESS SALAD.
+
+    Two large potatoes, pressed through kitchen sieve,
+    Smoothness and softness to the _salad_ give;
+    Of mordant mustard add a single spoon;
+    Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
+    But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,
+    To add a double quantity of salt.
+    Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
+    And twice with vinegar procured from town;
+    True flavor needs it, and your poet begs
+    The pounded yellow of two boiled eggs;
+    Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
+    And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
+    And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss
+    A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.
+    O great and glorious! O herbaceous treat!
+    'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat,
+    Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
+    And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl.
+                    REV. SIDNEY SMITH.
+
+If the herbs be young, fresh-gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dry
+and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the above directions, he
+cannot fail of obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished
+salad-dresser.
+
+
+ONIONS.
+
+    The things we eat, by various juice control
+    The narrowness or largeness of our soul.
+    _Onions_ will make e'en heirs or widows weep;
+    The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep.
+                    KING.
+
+Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to put
+them on to boil; put them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold water;
+let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size and
+age) from half an hour to an hour.
+
+
+ARTICHOKES.
+
+    Whose appetites would soon devour
+    Each cabbage, _artichoke_, and flower.
+                    CAWTHORNE.
+
+Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of
+boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently till
+tender, which will take an hour and a half or two hours. The surest way
+to know when they are done enough is to draw out a leaf. Trim them and
+drain them on a sieve, and send up melted butter with them, which some
+put into small cups, so that each guest may have one.
+
+
+LIMA BEANS.
+
+    Now fragrant with the _bean's_ perfume,
+    Now purpled with the pulse's bloom,
+    Might well with bright allusions store me;
+    But happier bards have been before me.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should be
+gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and then
+boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft; drain them well,
+and add to them some butter. They are destroyed by the first frost, but
+can be kept during the winter by gathering them on a dry day, when full
+grown, but not the least hard, and putting them in their pods into a
+keg. Throw some salt into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a
+layer of bean pods, then add more salt, and then another layer of beans
+in their pods, till the keg is full. Press them down with a heavy
+weight, cover the keg closely, and keep it in a cool, dry place. Before
+you use them, soak the pods all night in cold water, the next day shell
+them, and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them.
+
+
+POTATOES.
+
+    Leeks to the Welsh, to Dutchmen butter's dear;
+    Of Irish swains, _potatoes_ is the cheer.
+                    GAY.
+
+Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Fill
+a saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size (or make them so by
+dividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as will cover
+them about an inch; they are sooner boiled, and more savory than when
+drowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too little
+water; but potatoes are often spoiled by having too much; they must be
+merely covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that they
+may be just covered at the finish. Set them on a moderate fire till they
+boil; then take them off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmer
+slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork. Place no dependence on
+the usual test of their skins cracking, which, if they are boiled fast,
+will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done, and the
+insides quite hard. Then pour the water off--(if you let the potatoes
+remain in the water a moment after they are done enough, they will
+become waxy and watery),--uncover the saucepan, and set it at such a
+distance from the fire as will secure it from burning; their superfluous
+moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be perfectly dry and
+mealy.
+
+You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of the
+saucepan's diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till
+wanted.
+
+This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to steaming
+them, and they are dressed in half the time.
+
+There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, it is
+impossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way is to try
+them with a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will generally be done enough
+in fifteen or twenty minutes.
+
+
+PEAS.
+
+    Your infant _peas_ to asparagus prefer;
+    Which to the supper you may best defer.
+                    KING.
+
+Young green peas, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicacies
+of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young. It is equally
+indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they
+are shelled, for they soon lose both their color and sweetness. After
+being shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullender, put them on, in
+plenty of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt; boil them till they
+become tender, which, if young, will be less than half an hour; if old,
+they will require more than an hour. Drain them in a cullender, and put
+them into a dish, with a slice of fresh butter in it. Some people think
+it an improvement to boil a small bunch of mint with the peas; it is
+then minced finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or sides of the
+dish. If peas are allowed to stand in the water, after being boiled,
+they lose their color.
+
+
+RICE.
+
+                Every week dispense
+    English beans or _Carolinian rice_.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Wash the rice perfectly clean; put on one pound in two quarts of cold
+water; let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a sieve, and put it
+before the fire; shake it up with a fork every now and then, to separate
+the grains, and make it quite dry. Serve it hot.
+
+
+TURNIPS.
+
+    On _turnips_ feast whene'er you please,
+    And riot in my beans and peas.
+                    GAY.
+
+Wash, peel, and boil them till tender, in water with a little salt;
+serve them with melted butter. Or they may be stewed in a pint of milk,
+thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with salt
+and pepper, and served with the sauce.
+
+
+SPINACH.
+
+    Much meat doth Gluttony procure,
+      To feed men fat as swine;
+    But he's a frugal man, indeed,
+      That on _the leaf_ can dine.
+
+Pick it very carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or three times; then
+put it on in boiling water with a little salt; let it boil nearly twenty
+minutes. Put it into a cullender; hold it under the watercock, and let
+the water run on it for a minute. Put it into a saucepan; beat it
+perfectly smooth with a wooden spoon; add a bit of butter, and three
+tablespoonfuls of cream. Mix it well together, and make it hot before
+serving.
+
+
+ASPARAGUS.
+
+    At early morn, I to the market haste,
+    (Studious in everything to please thy taste);
+    A curious fowl and _'sparagus_ I chose,
+    (For I remembered you were fond of those).
+                    GAY.
+
+Boil asparagus in salt and water till it is tender at the stalk, which
+will be in twenty or thirty minutes. Great care must be taken to watch
+the exact time of its becoming tender. Toast some bread; dip it lightly
+in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of
+the dish; melt some butter; lay the asparagus upon the toast, which must
+project beyond the asparagus, that the company may see that there is
+toast.
+
+
+CARROTS.
+
+    And when his juicy salads fail'd,
+    Slic'd _carrots_ pleased him well.
+                    COWPER.
+
+Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. If young spring
+carrots, an hour is enough. When done, rub off the peels with a clean
+coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size.
+The best way to try if they are boiled enough, is to pierce them with a
+fork.
+
+
+LEEKS.
+
+    With carrots red, and turnips white,
+    And _leeks_, Cadwallader's delight,
+    And all the savory crop that vie
+    To please the palate and the eye.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Leeks are most generally used for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes.
+They are very rarely brought to table; in which case dress them as
+follows. Put them in the stock pot till about three parts done; then
+take them out, drain and soak them in vinegar seasoned with pepper,
+salt, and cloves; drain them again, stuff their hearts with a farce, dip
+them in butter, and fry them.
+
+
+
+
+TO DRY HERBS.
+
+    _Herbs_ too she knew, and well of each could speak
+      That in her garden sipp'd the silvery dew,
+    Where no vain flower disclosed a gaudy streak,
+      But herbs, for use and physic, not a few
+    Of gray renown, within those borders grew,--
+      The _tufted basil_, _pun-provoking thyme_,
+    Fresh _balm_, and _marigold_ of cheerful hue,
+      The _lowly gill_, that never dares to climb,
+    And more I fain would sing, disdaining here to rhyme.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+
+It is very important to know when the various seasons commence for
+picking sweet and savory herbs for drying. Care should be taken that
+they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better
+color when dried. Cleanse them well from dirt and dust, cut off the
+roots, separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat
+of the stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such
+quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, _i. e._
+"Kill 'em quick," says a great botanist; by this means their flavor will
+be best preserved. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drying,
+&c., hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of
+the sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only caution
+requisite is to avoid burning; and of this a sufficient test is afforded
+by the preservation of the color. The best method to preserve the flavor
+of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried,
+and to pound them, and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them in
+well-stopped bottles labelled.
+
+
+
+
+PICKLES.
+
+
+MANGOES.
+
+    What lord of old would bid his cook prepare
+    _Mangoes_, potargo, champignons, caviare!
+                    KING.
+
+There is a particular sort of melon for this purpose. Cut a square small
+piece out of one side, and through that take out the seeds, mix with
+them mustard seeds and shred garlic, stuff the melon as full as the
+space will allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up with small
+new pack-thread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting,
+with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour it boiling over the mangoes, four
+successive days; the last day put flour of mustard and scraped
+horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Observe that there is
+plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled, if not well covered.
+
+
+PICKLED CABBAGE.
+
+    Lives in a cell, and eats from week to week
+    A meal of _pickled cabbage_ and ox cheek.
+                    CAWTHORNE.
+
+Choose two middling-sized, well-colored and firm red cabbages, shred
+them very finely, first pulling off the outside leaves; mix with them
+nearly half a pound of salt; tie it up in a thin cloth, and let it hang
+for twelve hours; then put it into small jars, and pour over it cold
+vinegar that has been boiled with a few barberries in it. Boil in a
+quart of vinegar, three bits of ginger, half an ounce of pepper, and a
+quarter of an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over the red cabbage.
+Tie the jar closely with bladder.
+
+
+
+
+SWEETMEATS.
+
+
+TO CLARIFY SUGAR.
+
+    'Mongst salts essential, _sugar_ wins the palm,
+    For taste, for color, and for various use.
+    O'er all thy works let cleanliness preside,
+    Child of frugality; and as the scum
+    Thick mantles o'er the boiling wave, do thou
+    The scum that mantles carefully remove.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+                            Whereof little
+    More than a little is by much too much.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+To every three pounds of loaf sugar, allow the beaten white of an egg
+and a pint and a half of water; break the sugar small, put it into a
+nicely cleaned brass pan, pour the water over it; let it stand some time
+before it be put upon the fire, then add the beaten white of the egg;
+stir it till the sugar be entirely dissolved; when it boils up, pour in
+a quarter of a pint of cold water, let it boil up a second time, take it
+off the fire, let it settle for fifteen minutes, carefully take off all
+the scum, let it boil again till sufficiently thick; in order to
+ascertain which, drop a little from a spoon into a jar of cold water,
+and if it become quite hard, it is sufficiently done, and the fruit to
+be preserved must instantly be put in and boiled.
+
+
+CURRANT JELLY.
+
+    He snuffs far off the anticipated joy,
+    _Jelly_ and ven'son all his thoughts employ.
+                    COWPER.
+
+Currant, grape, and raspberry jelly are all made precisely in the same
+manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day. As soon as
+it is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close.
+Set the jar in a saucepan, about three parts filled with cold water; put
+it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the
+pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag,
+pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. To each
+pint of juice, add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded,
+when it is put into a preserving pan; set it on the fire, and boil it
+gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or forty
+minutes), _i. e._ till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear and
+fine; pour it warm into pots, and when cold, cover them with paper
+wetted in brandy.
+
+Half a pint of this jelly dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar will
+give you an excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar.
+
+_Obs._ Jellies from the fruits are made in the same way, and cannot be
+preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. The best way is
+the cheapest.
+
+
+APPLE JELLY.
+
+    The board was spread with fruits and wine;
+    With grapes of gold, like those that shine
+      On Caslin's hills; pomegranates, full
+    Of melting sweetness, and the pears
+      And sunniest _apples_ that Cabul
+    In all its thousand gardens bears.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Pare and mince three dozen juicy, acid apples; put them into a pan;
+cover them with water, and boil them till very soft; strain them through
+a thin cloth or flannel bag; allow a pound of loaf sugar to a pint of
+juice, with the grated peel and juice of six lemons. Boil it for twenty
+minutes; take off the scum as it rises.
+
+
+CHERRY JELLY.
+
+    With rich conserve of _Visna cherries_,
+    Of orange flower, and of those berries
+    That----.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take the stones and stalks from two pounds of clear, fine, ripe
+cherries; mix them with a quarter of a pound of red currants, from which
+the seeds have been extracted; express the juice from these fruits;
+filter, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar,
+and one ounce of isinglass. Replace the vessel on the fire with the
+juice, and add to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled _a conserve_.
+Boil together a few times, and then pour the conserve into cases.
+
+
+CALVES' FEET JELLY.
+
+    Nature hates vacuums, as you know,
+    We, therefore, will descend below,
+    And fill, with dainties nice and light,
+    The vacuum in your appetite.
+    Besides, good wine and dainty fare
+    Are sometimes known to lighten care;
+    Nay, man is often brisk or dull,
+    As the keen stomach's void or full.
+
+To four feet add four quarts of water; let them boil on a slow fire till
+the flesh is parted from the bones, and the quantity reduced to half;
+strain it carefully, and the next morning remove the feet and sediment.
+Add the rind of two lemons, the juice of five lemons, one and a half
+pounds of white sugar, a stick of cinnamon, a little nutmeg, a pint of
+sherry wine, half a teacupful of brandy; beat the white of ten eggs to a
+froth, and put them into the pan with their shells; let it boil ten
+minutes, when throw in a teacupful of cold water. Strain it through a
+flannel bag, first dipped into boiling water.
+
+
+PINEAPPLE PRESERVE.
+
+    And the _sun's child_, the _mail'd anana_, yields
+    His _regal apple_ to the ravish'd taste.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Pare your pineapple; cut it in small pieces, and leave out the core. Mix
+the pineapple with half a pound of powdered white sugar, and set it away
+in a covered dish till sufficient juice is drawn out to stew the fruit
+in.
+
+Stew the pineapple in the sugar and juice till quite soft, then mash it
+to a marmalade with the back of a spoon, and set it away to cool; pour
+it in tumblers, cover them with paper, gum-arabicked on.
+
+
+
+
+EGGS.
+
+
+OMELET.
+
+    Though many, I own, are the evils they've brought us,
+      Though R**al*y's here on her very last legs;
+    Yet who can help loving the land that has taught us
+      Six hundred and eighty-five ways to dress _eggs_!
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take as many eggs as you think proper; break them into a pan, with some
+salt and chopped parsley; beat them well, and season them according to
+taste. Have ready some onion, chopped small; put some butter into a
+fryingpan, and when it is hot, put in your chopped onion, giving them
+two or three turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the whole of a
+nice brown. You must only fry one side; serve the fried side uppermost.
+
+
+TO POACH EGGS.
+
+    But, after all, what would you have me do,
+    When, out of twenty, I can please not two?
+    One likes the pheasant's wing, and one the leg;
+    The vulgar boil, the learned _poach an egg_;
+    Hard task to hit the palate of such guests,
+    When Oldfield loves what Dartineuf detests.
+                    POPE.
+
+The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavor to
+procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days; those that are new
+laid are so milky, that, take all the care you can, your cooking of them
+will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher. You must
+have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. The beauty of a poached
+egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the white, which should
+only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil for the
+egg. Have some boiling water in a teakettle; pass as much of it through
+a clean cloth as will half fill a stewpan; break the egg into a cup, and
+when the water boils remove the stewpan from the stove, and gently slip
+the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it on a
+very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is ready.
+Take it up with a slicer, and neatly place it on a piece of toast.
+
+
+BOILED EGGS.
+
+    On holydays, an _egg or two_ at most;
+    But her ambition never reached to roast.
+                    CHAUCER.
+
+The fresher laid the better. Put them into boiling water; if you like
+the white just set, about two minutes' boiling is enough. A new-laid egg
+will take a little more. If you wish the yolk to be set, it will take
+three, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid egg
+will require longer boiling than a stale one by half a minute.
+
+
+FRIED EGGS.
+
+    Go work, hunt, exercise (he thus begun),
+    Then scorn a homely dinner if you can;
+    _Fried eggs_, and herbs, and olives, still we see:
+    This much is left of old simplicity.
+                    POPE.
+
+Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may be served as a second
+course dish, to eat with roast chicken.
+
+
+EGGS AND BREAD.
+
+    Never go to France,
+      Unless you know the lingo;
+    If you do, like me,
+      You'll repent, by jingo.
+    Starving like a fool,
+      And silent as a mummy,
+    There I stood alone,
+      A nation with a dummy.
+
+    Signs I had to make
+      For every little notion;
+    Limbs all going like
+      A telegraph in motion;
+    If I wanted _bread_,
+      My jaws I set a-going,
+    And asked for _new laid eggs_
+      By clapping hands and crowing.
+
+Put half a handful of breadcrumbs into a saucepan, with a small
+quantity of cream, sugar, and nutmeg, and let it stand till the bread
+has imbibed all the cream; then break ten eggs into it, and having
+beaten them up together, fry it like an omelet.
+
+
+OMELETTE SOUFFLE.
+
+    "Where is my favorite dish?" he cried;
+    "Let some one place it by my side!"
+                    DONNE.
+
+Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four (set aside the
+remaining whites), with a spoonful of water, some salt, sugar, and the
+juice of a lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish. Whip the four
+whites which were set aside to a froth with sugar, and place it over the
+fried eggs; bake it for a few minutes.
+
+
+
+
+DESSERTS.
+
+
+PUFF PASTE.
+
+                            The _puffs_ made me light,
+    And now that's all over, I'm pretty well, thank you.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Weigh an equal quantity of flour and butter, rub rather more than half
+the flour into one-third of the butter; add as much cold water as will
+make it into a stiff paste; work it until the butter be completely mixed
+with the flour, make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin, dust it, as
+also the rolling-pin with flour, and roll it out towards the opposite
+side of the slab, or paste-board, making it of an equal thickness, then
+with the point of a knife, put little bits of butter all over it, dust
+flour over it and under it, fold in all the sides, and roll it up, dust
+it again with flour, beat it a little, and roll out, always rubbing the
+rolling-pin with flour, and throwing some underneath the paste to
+prevent its sticking to the board.
+
+It should be touched as little as possible with the hands.
+
+
+PYRAMID PASTE.
+
+    You that from pliant _paste_ would fabrics raise,
+    Expecting thence to gain immortal praise,
+    Your knuckles try, and let your sinews know
+    Their power to knead, and give the form to dough;
+    From thence of course the figure will arise,
+    And elegance adorn the surface of your pies.
+                    KING.
+
+Make a rich puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut it
+into five or seven pieces with scalloped tin cutters, which go one
+within another; leave the bottom and top piece entire, and cut a bit out
+of the centre of the others. Place them upon buttered baking tins, and
+bake them of a light brown. Build them into a pyramid, laying a
+different preserved fruit upon each piece of paste, and on the top a
+whole apricot with a sprig of myrtle stuck in it.
+
+
+FRUIT PIES.
+
+    Unless some _sweetness_ at the bottom lie,
+    Who cares for all the crinkling of the pie!
+                    KING.
+
+Fruit pies for family use are generally made with common paste. Allow
+three quarters of a pound of butter to a pound and a half of flour.
+Peaches and plums for pies should be cut in half, and the stones taken
+out. Cherries also should be stoned, and red cherries only should be
+used for pies. Apples should be cut into very thin slices, and are much
+improved by a little lemon-peel. Apples stewed previous to baking,
+should not be done till they break, but only till they are tender. They
+should then be drained in a cullender, and chopped fine with a knife or
+edge of a spoon. In making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good way to set
+a small teacup on the bottom crust, and lay the fruit round it. The
+juice will collect under the cup, and not run out at the edges or top of
+the pie. The fruit should be mixed with a sufficient quantity of sugar,
+and piled up in the middle, so as to make the pie highest in the centre.
+
+The upper crust should be pricked with a fork. The edges should be
+nicely crimped with a knife. If stewed fruit is put in warm, it will
+make the paste heavy. If your pies are made in the form of shells, the
+fruit should always be stewed first, or it will not be sufficiently
+done, as the shells (which should be made of puff paste) must not bake
+so long as covered pies.
+
+Fruit pies with lids should have loaf sugar grated over them.
+
+
+MINCE PIES.
+
+    When Terence spoke, oraculous and sly,
+    He'd neither grant the question nor deny,
+    Pleading for tarts, his thoughts were on _mince pie_.
+
+    My poor endeavors view with gracious eye,
+    To make these lines above a _Christmas pie_.
+
+Two pounds of boiled beef's heart or fresh tongue, or lean fresh beef
+chopped, when cold; two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, four pounds of
+pippin apples chopped, two pounds of raisins stoned and chopped, two
+pounds of currants picked, washed, and dried, two pounds of powdered
+sugar, one quart of white wine, one quart of brandy, one wine-glass of
+rose-water, two grated nutmegs, half an ounce of cinnamon, powdered, a
+quarter of an ounce of mace, powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, two large
+oranges, and half a pound of citron cut in slips. Pack it closely into
+stone jars, and tie them over with paper. When it is to be used, add a
+little more wine.
+
+
+PLUM PUDDING.
+
+    All you who to feasting and mirth are inclined,
+    Come, here is good news for to pleasure your mind.
+    Old Christmas is come, for to keep open house:
+    He scorns to be guilty of starving a mouse.
+    Then come, boys, and welcome, for diet the chief,--
+    _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.
+    The cooks shall be busied, by day and by night,
+    In roasting and _boiling_, for taste and delight.
+    Provision is making for beer, ale, and wine,
+    For all that are willing or ready to dine.
+    Meantime goes the caterer to fetch in _the chief_,--
+    _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.
+                    ANCIENT CHRISTMAS CAROL.
+
+One quarter of a pound of beef suet; take out the strings and skin; chop
+it to appear like butter; stone one pound of raisins, one pound of
+currants, well washed, dried, and floured, one pound loaf sugar, rolled
+and sifted, one pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten; beat all well
+together for some time, then add by degrees two glasses of brandy, one
+wine, one rose-water, citron, nutmeg, and cinnamon; beat it all
+extremely well together, tie it in a floured cloth very tight, let it
+boil four hours constantly; let your sauce be a quarter pound of butter,
+beat to a cream, a quarter pound loaf sugar pounded and sifted; beat in
+the butter with a little wine and sugar and nutmeg.
+
+
+COCOANUT PUDDING.
+
+    Whatever was the _best pie_ going,
+    In _that_ Ned--trust him--had his finger.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take the thin brown skin off of a quarter pound of cocoa, wash it in
+cold water, and wipe it dry; grate it fine, stir three and half ounces
+of butter and a quarter pound of powdered sugar, to a cream; add half
+teaspoonful of rose-water, half glass of wine and of brandy mixed, to
+them. Beat the white of six eggs till they stand alone, and then stir
+them into the butter and sugar; afterwards sprinkle in the grated nut,
+and stir hard all the time. Put puff paste into the bottom of the dish,
+pour in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, half an hour. Grate
+loaf sugar over it when cold.
+
+
+APPLE PUDDING.
+
+    Where London's column, pointing to the skies,
+    Like a tall bully, lifts the head and lies,
+    There dwelt a citizen of sober fame,
+    A plain, good man, and Balaam was his name;
+    Religious, punctual, frugal, and so forth,
+    His word would pass for more than he was worth;
+    One solid dish his week-day meal affords,
+    And _apple pudding_ solemnized the Lord's.
+                    POPE.
+
+Make a batter of two eggs, a pint of milk and three or four spoonfuls
+of flour; pour it into a deep dish, and having pared six or eight
+apples, place them whole in the batter, and bake them.
+
+
+HASTY PUDDING.
+
+    But man, more fickle, the bold license claims,
+    In different realms, to give thee different names.
+    _Thee_, the soft nations round the warm Levant
+    Polanta call; the French, of course, Polante.
+    E'en in thy native regions, how I blush
+    To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee _mush_!
+    All spurious appellations, void of truth;
+    I've better known thee from my earliest youth:
+    Thy name is _Hasty Pudding_! Thus our sires
+    Were wont to greet thee from the fuming fires;
+    And while they argued in thy just defence,
+    With logic clear, they thus explained the sense:
+    "In _haste_ the boiling caldron, o'er the blaze,
+    Receives and cooks the ready-powdered maize;
+    In haste 'tis served, and then in equal _haste_,
+    With cooling milk, we make the sweet repast.
+    No carving to be done, no knife to grate
+    The tender ear, and wound the stony plate;
+    But the smooth spoon, just fitted to the lip,
+    And taught with art the yielding mass to dip,
+    By frequent journeys to the bowl well stored,
+    Performs the _hasty_ honors of the board."
+    Such is thy name, significant and clear,--
+    A name, a sound, to every Yankee dear;
+    But most to me, whose heart and palate chaste
+    Preserve my pure, hereditary taste.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+
+YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
+
+                      The strong table groans
+    Beneath the smoking sirloin, stretch'd immense
+    From side to side; in which with desperate knife
+    They deep incisions make, and talk the while
+    Of England's glory, ne'er to be defaced
+    While hence they borrow vigor; or amain
+    Into the _pudding_ plunged at intervals,
+    If stomach keen can intervals allow,
+    Relating all the glories of the chase.
+                    THOMSON.
+
+This pudding is especially an excellent accompaniment to a sirloin of
+beef. Six tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt,
+and a pint of milk, make a middling stiff batter; beat it up well; take
+care it is not lumpy. Put a dish under the meat; let the drippings drop
+into it, till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter.
+When the upper surface is browned and set, turn it, that both sides may
+be brown alike. A pudding an inch thick will take two hours. Serve it
+under the roast beef, that the juice of the beef may enter it. It is
+very fine.
+
+
+SUET PUDDING.
+
+    Sir Balaam now, he lives like other folks;
+    He takes his chirping, and cracks his jokes.
+    Live like yourself, was soon my lady's word;
+    And lo! _suet pudding_ was seen upon the board.
+                    POPE.
+
+Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three tablespoonfuls; eggs two, and a
+little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as
+possible; roll it with the rolling-pin, so as to mix it well with the
+flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix them all
+together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, and boil it an hour and
+a quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it: "When you have made your water boil, then
+put your pudding into your pot."
+
+
+OATMEAL PUDDING.
+
+    Of oats decorticated take two pounds,
+    And of new milk enough the same to drown;
+    Of raisins of the sun, stoned, ounces eight;
+    Of currants, cleanly picked, an equal weight;
+    Of suet, finely sliced, an ounce at least;
+    And six eggs, newly taken from the nest:
+    Season this mixture well with salt and spice;
+    'Twill make a pudding far exceeding rice;
+    And you may safely feed on it like farmers,
+    For the recipe is learned Dr. Harmer's.
+
+
+EVE'S PUDDING.
+
+    If you want a good pudding, mind what you are taught:
+    Take eggs, six in number, when bought for a groat;
+    The fruit with which Eve her husband did cozen,
+    Well pared and well chopped, take at least half a dozen;
+    Six ounces of bread--let the cook eat the crust--
+    And crumble the soft as fine as the dust;
+    Six ounces of currants from the stalks you must sort,
+    Lest they husk out your teeth, and spoil all the sport;
+    Six ounces of sugar won't make it too sweet,
+    And some salt and some nutmeg will make it complete.
+    Three hours let it boil, without any flutter,
+    And Adam won't like it without sugar and butter.
+                    ANONYMOUS.
+
+
+CHARLOTTE DES POMMES.
+
+    _Charlotte_, from rennet apples first did frame
+    _A pie_, which still retains her name.
+    Though common grown, yet with white sugar stewed,
+    And butter'd right, its goodness is allowed.
+                    KING.
+
+Pare, core, and mince fifteen French rennet apples; put them into a
+frying-pan with some powdered loaf sugar, a little pounded cinnamon,
+grated lemon-peel, and two ounces and a half of fresh butter; fry them a
+quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stirring them constantly. Butter
+the shape the size the Charlotte is intended to be; cut strips of bread
+long enough to reach from the bottom to the rim of the shape, so that
+the whole be lined with bread; dip each bit into melted butter, and put
+a layer of fried apples, and one of apricot jam or marmalade, and then
+one of bread dipped into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour. Turn it out to serve.
+
+
+BATTER PUDDING.
+
+    A frugal man, upon the whole,
+    Yet loved his friend, and had a soul;
+    Knew what was handsome, and would do't
+    On just occasion, coute qui coute.
+    He brought him bacon (nothing lean);
+    _Pudding_, that might have pleased a dean;
+    Cheese, such as men of Suffolk make,
+    But wished it Stilton for his sake.
+                    POPE.
+
+Take six ounces of flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat it well
+with a little milk, added by degrees, till the batter becomes smooth;
+make it the thickness of cream; put it into a buttered and floured bag;
+tie it tightly; boil one and a half hour, or two hours. Serve with wine
+sauce.
+
+
+APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+    By the rivulet, on the rushes,
+    Beneath a canopy of bushes,
+    Colin Blount and Yorkshire Tray
+    Taste the _dumplings_ and the whey.
+                    SMART.
+
+Pare and scoop out the core of six large baking apples; put part of a
+clove and a little grated lemon-peel inside of each, and enclose them in
+pieces of puff paste; boil them in nets for the purpose, or bits of
+linen, for an hour. Before serving, cut off a small bit from the top of
+each, and put a teaspoonful of sugar and a bit of fresh butter; replace
+the bit of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf sugar.
+
+
+SWEETMEAT FRITTERS.
+
+    If chronicles may be believed,
+    So loved the pamper'd gallant lived,
+    That with the nuns he always dined
+    On rarities of every kind;
+    Then hoards, occasionally varied,
+    Of biscuits, _sweetmeats_, nuts, and fruits.
+
+Cut small any sort of candied fruit, and heat it with a bit of fresh
+butter, some good milk, and a little grated lemon-peel; when quite hot,
+stir in enough of flour to make it into a stiff paste; take it off the
+fire, and work in eight or ten eggs, two at a time. When cold, form the
+fritters, fry, and serve them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over them.
+
+
+FRITTERS.
+
+    Methinks I scent some _rich repast_:
+    The savor strengthens with the blast.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take a dozen apricots, or any other fruit preserved in brandy; drain
+them in half; then wrap them in wafers, cut round, and previously
+moistened. Make the batter by putting a glass and a half of water, a
+grain of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, into a saucepan. When it
+boils, stir in sufficient quantity of flour to make it rather a firm
+batter; keep it stirring three minutes; then pour it into another
+vessel: dip the fruit in this batter, and fry them; sprinkle them with
+sugar, then serve.
+
+
+
+
+CREAMS.
+
+
+ICE CREAM.
+
+    After dreaming some hours of the land of Cocaigne,
+      That Elysium of all that is friand and nice,
+    Where for hail they have bonbons, and claret for rain,
+      And the skaters in winter show off on _cream ice_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Here _ice, like crystal firm_, and never lost,
+    Tempers hot July with December's frost.
+                    WALLER.
+
+Put a quart of rich cream into a broad pan; then stir in half a pound of
+powdered loaf sugar by degrees, and when all is well mixed, strain it
+through a sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, and set it in
+a tub. Fill the tub with ice broken into small pieces, and strew among
+the ice a large quantity of salt, taking care that none of the salt gets
+into the cream. Scrape the cream down with a spoon as it freezes round
+the edges of the tin. While the cream is freezing, stir in gradually the
+juice of two large lemons or the juice of a pint of mashed strawberries
+or raspberries. When it is all frozen, dip the tin in lukewarm water;
+take out the cream, and fill your glasses, but not till a few minutes
+before you want to use it, as it will melt very soon.
+
+If you wish to have it in moulds, put the cream into them as soon as it
+is frozen in the tin.
+
+Set the moulds in a tub of ice and salt. Just before you want to use the
+cream, take the moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash the salt carefully
+from the outside, dip the moulds into lukewarm water, and turn out the
+cream. You may flavor a quart of ice cream with two ounces of sweet
+almonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched, and beaten in a
+mortar with a little rose-water to a smooth paste.
+
+Stir in the almond gradually, while the cream is freezing.
+
+
+WHIPPED CREAM.
+
+    Pudding our parson eats, the squire loves hare,
+    But _whipped cream_ is my Buxoma's fare,
+    While she loves _whipped cream_, capon ne'er shall be,
+    Nor hare, nor beef, nor pudding, food for me.
+                    GAY.
+
+Sweeten with pounded loaf sugar a quart of cream, and to it a lump of
+sugar which has been rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or little
+oranges; or flavor it with orange flower water, a little essence of
+roses, the juice of strawberries, or any other fruit. Whisk the cream
+well in a large pan, and as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it on
+a sieve placed over another pan, and return the cream which drains from
+the froth till all is whisked; then heap it upon a dish, or put it into
+glasses.
+
+
+BOILED CUSTARDS.
+
+    And _boiled custard_, take its merit in brief,
+    Makes a noble dessert, where the dinner's roast beef.
+
+Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream,
+and the yolks of five eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of the
+seasoning, sweeten enough for the whole; pour it into the cream,
+stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper
+thickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way; then season
+with a large spoonful of peach-water, and two teaspoonfuls of brandy or
+a little ratafia. If you wish your custards extremely rich, put no milk,
+but a quart of cream.
+
+
+ORANGE CUSTARDS.
+
+    With _orange custards_ and the juicy pine,
+    On choicest melons and sweet grapes they dine.
+                    JONSON.
+
+Sweeten the strained juice of ten oranges with pounded loaf sugar, stir
+it over the fire till hot, take off the scum, and when nearly cold, add
+to it the beaten yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of cream; put it into
+a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve it in
+cups.
+
+
+CUSTARDS OR CREAMS.
+
+    But nicer cates, her dainty's boasted fare,
+    The _jellied cream_ or custards, daintiest food,
+    Or cheesecake, or the cooling syllabub,
+    For Thyrses she prepares.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Whisk for one hour the whites of two eggs, together with two
+tablespoonfuls of raspberry or red currant syrup or jelly; lay it in any
+form of a custard or cream, piled up to imitate rock. It may be served
+in a cream round it.
+
+
+ALMOND CREAMS.
+
+            And from _sweet kernels_ pressed,
+    She tempers _dulcet creams_.
+                    MILTON.
+
+Blanch and pound to a paste, with rose-water, six ounces of almonds; mix
+them with a pint and a half of cream which has been boiled with the peel
+of a small lemon; add two well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over the
+fire till it be thick, taking care not to allow it to boil; sweeten it,
+and when nearly cold, stir in a tablespoonful of orange-flower or
+rose-water.
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS.
+
+
+YEAST.
+
+    Not with the leaven, as of old,
+    Of sin and malice fed,
+    But with unfeigned sincerity.
+
+One dozen of potatoes, two cupfuls of hops; put them together in a bag,
+and place them in a pot with two quarts of water; let it boil till the
+potatoes are done; a cupful of salt, a ladle of flour; then pour the
+boiling water over it, then let it stand till lukewarm; add a cupful of
+old yeast, cover it up, and put near the fire till it foments.
+
+
+BREAD.
+
+    His diet was of _wheaten bread_.
+                    COWPER.
+
+    Mixt with the rustic throng, see ruddy maids,
+    Some taught with dextrous hand to twirl the wheel,
+                                      Some expert
+    To raise from _leavened wheat the kneaded loaf_.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+    Her _bread_ is deemed such dainty fare,
+    That ev'ry prudent traveller
+    His wallet loads with many a crust.
+                    COWPER.
+
+              Like the _loaf_ in the Tub's pleasant tale,
+    That was fish, flesh, and custard, good claret and ale,
+    It comprised every flavor, was all and was each,
+    Was grape and was pineapple, nectarine and peach.
+                    LOVILOND.
+
+Mix with six pounds of sifted flour one ounce of salt, nearly half a
+pint of fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brewery, and a sufficient
+quantity of warmed milk to make the whole into a stiff dough, work and
+knead it well on a board, on which a little flour has been strewed, for
+fifteen or twenty minutes, then put it into a deep pan, cover it with a
+warmed towel, set it before the fire, and let it rise for an hour and a
+half or perhaps two hours; cut off a piece of this sponge or dough;
+knead it well for eight or ten minutes, together with flour sufficient
+to keep it from adhering to the board, put it into small tins, filling
+them three quarters full; dent the rolls all around with a knife, and
+let them stand a few minutes before putting them in the oven.
+
+The remainder of the dough must then be worked up for loaves, and baked
+either in or out of shape.
+
+
+RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.
+
+    Of wine she never tasted through the year,
+    But white and black was all her homely cheer,
+    _Brown bread_ and milk (but first she skimmed her bowls),
+    And rasher of singed bacon on the coals.
+                    CHAUCER.
+
+Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them well
+together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling upon the meal; add
+two teaspoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let it stand
+till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half a pint of
+good, fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a smaller
+quantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and set it
+to rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been previously
+warmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light, and has
+cracked all over the top, make it into two loaves; put them into a
+moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.
+
+
+BUTTER.
+
+                                  Vessels large
+    And broad, by the sweet hand of neatness clean'd,
+    Meanwhile, in decent order ranged appear,
+    The milky treasure, strain'd thro' filtering lawn,
+    Intended to receive. At early day,
+    Sweet slumber shaken from her opening lids,
+    My lovely Patty to her dairy hies;
+    There, from the surface of expanded bowls
+    She skims the floating cream, and to her churn
+    Commits the rich consistence; nor disdains,
+    Though soft her hand, though delicate her frame,
+    To urge the rural toil, fond to obtain
+    The country housewife's humble name and praise.
+    Continued agitation separates soon
+    The unctuous particles; with gentler strokes
+    And artful, soon they coalesce; at length
+    Cool water pouring from the limpid spring
+    Into a smooth glazed vessel, deep and wide,
+    She gathers the loose fragments to a heap,
+    Which in the cleansing wave, well wrought and press'd,
+    To one consistent golden mass, receives
+    The sprinkled seasoning, and of pats or pounds
+    The fair impression, the neat shape assumes.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+
+COTTAGE CHEESE.
+
+                  Warm from the cow she pours
+    The milky flood. An acid juice infused,
+    From the dried stomach drawn of suckling calf,
+    Coagulates the whole. Immediate now
+    Her spreading hands bear down the gathering curd,
+    Which hard and harder grows, till, clear and thin,
+    The green whey rises separate.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Warm three half pints of cream with one half pint of milk, and put a
+little rennet to it; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled;
+have a proper mould with holes, either of china or any other; put the
+curds into it to drain, about one hour or less. Serve it with a good
+plain cream, and pounded sugar over it.
+
+
+
+
+CAKES.
+
+
+BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
+
+    Do, dear James, mix up the cakes:
+    Just one quart of meal it takes;
+    Pour the water on the pot,
+    Be careful it is not too hot;
+    Sift the meal well through your hand,
+    Thicken well--don't let it stand;
+    Stir it quick,--clash, clatter, clatter!
+    O what light, delicious batter!
+    Now listen to the next command:
+    On the dresser let it stand
+    Just three quarters of an hour,
+    To feel the gently rising power
+    Of powders, melted into yeast,
+    To lighten well this precious feast.
+    See, now it rises to the brim!
+    Quick, take the ladle, dip it in;
+    So let it rest, until the fire
+    The griddle heats as you desire.
+    Be careful that the coals are glowing,
+    No smoke around its white curls throwing;
+    Apply the suet, softly, lightly;
+    The griddle's black face shines more brightly.
+    Now pour the batter on; delicious!
+    Don't, dear James, think me officious,
+    But lift the tender edges lightly;
+    Now turn it over quickly, sprightly.
+    'Tis done! Now on the white plate lay it:
+    Smoking hot, with butter spread,
+    'Tis quite enough to turn our head!
+
+
+JOHNNY CAKES.
+
+    Some talk of hoecake, fair Virginia's pride!
+    Rich _Johnny cake_ this mouth has often tried;
+    Both please me well, their virtues much the same;
+    Alike their fabric, as allied their fame.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+A quart of sifted Indian meal, and a handful of wheat flour sifted; mix
+them; three eggs, well beaten; two tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's
+yeast, or flour of home made yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quart
+of milk.
+
+
+MUFFINS.
+
+    Friend, I am a shrewd observer, and will guess
+    What cakes you doat on for your favorite mess.
+                    ARMSTRONG.
+
+Take a pint of warm milk, and a quarter pint of thick small-beer yeast;
+strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like a
+batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has
+risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and an ounce of butter
+rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together; add sufficient
+flour to make it into a dough; cover it over. Let it stand half an hour;
+work it up again; break it into small pieces, roll them up quite round,
+and cover them over for a quarter of an hour, then bake them.
+
+
+PANCAKES.
+
+    With all her haughty looks, the time I've seen
+    When the proud damsel has more humble been;
+    When with nice airs she hoist the _pancake_ round,
+    And dropt it, hapless fair! upon the ground.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+To three tablespoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of white wine, four ounces of melted butter nearly cold,
+the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and a
+pint of cream. Mix it well, beating the batter for some time, and pour
+it thin over the pan.
+
+
+PLUM-CAKE.
+
+                              First in place,
+    _Plum-cake_ is seen o'er smaller pastry ware,
+    And ice on that.
+                    SWIFT.
+
+Pick two pounds of currants very clean, and wash them, draining them
+through a cullender. Wipe them in a towel, spread them out in a large
+dish, and set them near the fire or in the hot sun to dry, placing the
+dish in a slanting position. Having stoned two pounds of best raisins,
+cut them in half, and when all are done, sprinkle them well with sifted
+flour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. When the
+currants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour.
+
+Pound the spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two nutmegs, powdered;
+sift and mix the cinnamon and nutmeg together. Mix also a large glass of
+wine and brandy, half a glass of rose-water in a tumbler or cup. Cut a
+pound of citron in slips; sift a pound of flour in a broad dish, sift a
+pound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut a pound
+of butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold for
+it to mix easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat twelve
+eggs as light as possible; stir them into the butter and sugar
+alternately with the flour; stir very hard; add gradually the spice and
+liquor. Stir the raisins and currants alternately in the mixture, taking
+care that they are well floured. Stir the whole as hard as possible, for
+ten minutes after the ingredients are in.
+
+Cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan with sheets of
+white paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. Then
+spread some citron on it, which must not be cut too small; next put a
+layer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till all is
+in, having a layer of mixture at the top.
+
+This cake will require four or five hours baking, in proportion to its
+thickness.
+
+Ice it next day.
+
+
+LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.
+
+    Must see Rheims, much famed, 'tis said,
+    For making kings and _gingerbread_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Five eggs, half pound of brown sugar, half pound fresh butter, a pint of
+sugarhouse molasses, a pound and a half of flour, four tablespoonfuls of
+ginger, two large sticks of cinnamon, three dozen grains of allspice,
+three dozen of cloves, juice and grated peel of two lemons. Stir the
+butter and sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very well; pour the molasses
+at once into the butter and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, and
+stir all well together. Put in the eggs and flour alternately, stirring
+all the time. Stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at the
+last. When the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. Butter an
+earthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it.
+Bake it in a moderate oven an hour or more, according to its thickness,
+or you may bake it in small cakes or little tins.
+
+
+SHREWSBURY CAKES.
+
+    And here each season do _those cakes_ abide,
+    Whose honored names the inventive city own,
+    Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon and a nutmeg grated, into
+three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose-water to three
+eggs well beaten; mix these with the flour, &c.; then pour into it as
+much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out.
+
+Stir it well, and roll thin; cut it into such shapes as you like. Bake
+on tins.
+
+
+HONEY-CAKE.
+
+    In vain the circled loaves attempt to lie
+    Concealed in flaskets from my curious eye;
+    In vain the cheeses, offspring of the pail,
+    Or _honeyed cakes_, which gods themselves regale.
+                    PARNELL.
+
+One pound and a half of dried sifted flour, three quarters of a pound of
+honey, half a pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound
+of citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut small, of powdered
+ginger and cinnamon, three quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with the
+honey, and mix in the other ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut it
+into small cakes of any form.
+
+
+NAPLES BISCUITS.
+
+    Though I've consulted Holinshed and Stow,
+    I find it very difficult to know
+    Who, to refresh the attendants to a grave,
+    Burnt claret first or _Naples biscuit_ gave.
+                    KING.
+
+Put three quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound of powdered
+sugar; sift both together three times; then add six eggs beaten well,
+and a spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is nearly hot, bake them.
+
+
+GINGERBREAD.
+
+    Whence oft with sugared cates she doth 'em greet,
+    And _gingerbread_, if rare, now certes doubly sweet.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg strained; mix four
+ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace,
+allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce; beat all as fine as
+possible; melt one pound of butter, and mix with the above: add as much
+flour as will knead it into a pretty stiff paste; roll it out, and cut
+it in cakes.
+
+
+SPONGE CAKE.
+
+    On _cake_ luxuriously I dine,
+    And drink the fragrance of the vine,
+    Studious of elegance and ease,
+    Myself alone I seek to please.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take the juice and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of
+finely pounded loaf sugar, the same of dried and sifted flour; then,
+beat the yolks of ten eggs; add the sugar by degrees, and beat it till
+it will stand when dropped from the spoon; put in at separate times the
+two other eggs, yolks, and whites; whisk the ten whites for eight
+minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and when quite stiff, take as much
+as the whisk will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, which must
+be beaten all the time; mix in lightly all the flour and grated peel,
+and pour it gradually over the whites; stir it together, and bake it in
+a large buttered tin or small ones; do not more than half fill them.
+
+
+SUGAR BISCUITS.
+
+    This happy hour elapsed and gone,
+    The time of drinking tea comes on.
+    The kettle filled, the water boiled,
+    The cream provided, the _biscuits_ piled.
+    And lamp prepared; I straight engage
+    The Lilliputian equipage
+    Of dishes, sauces, spoons, and tongs,
+    And all the et ceteras which thereto belongs.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+The weight of eight eggs in finely pounded loaf sugar, and of four in
+dried flour; beat separately the whites and yolks; with the yolks beat
+the sugar for half an hour; then add the whites and the flour, and a
+little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake them as
+French biscuits.
+
+
+DERBY CAKE.
+
+    Some bring a capon, some _Derby cake_,
+    Some nuts, some apples, some that think they make
+    The better cheesecakes, bring them.
+
+Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
+flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one
+egg; mix all together with half pint of milk; roll it out thin, and cut
+it into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, and
+put them into a middling heated oven for about ten minutes.
+
+
+CRACKNELS.
+
+    However, you shall home with me tonight,
+    Forget your cares, and revel in delight;
+    I have in store a pint or two of wine,
+    Some _cracknels_, and the remnant of a chine.
+                    SWIFT.
+
+Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them to a fine paste,
+adding to them by degrees six eggs, when thoroughly pounded; pour on
+them a pound of powdered sugar, the same of butter, and the rinds of two
+lemons grated; beat up these ingredients in the mortar; put a pound of
+flour on a slab, and having poured the almond paste upon it, knead them
+together till they are well incorporated; roll it out, and cut the
+cracknels into such forms as you think proper; rub them with yolk of
+egg, and strew over them powdered sugar or cinnamon; then lay them on a
+buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking great care they
+do not burn.
+
+
+CHEESECAKES.
+
+    Treat here, ye shepherds blithe! your damsels sweet,
+    For pies and _cheesecakes_ are for damsels meet.
+                    GAY.
+
+Put two quarts of new milk into a stewpan; set it near the fire, and
+stir in two tablespoonfuls of rennet; let it stand till it is set (this
+will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it
+remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd
+into a cullender to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound
+it quite smooth; then add four ounces of powdered sugar, and three
+ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting
+pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together; beat the
+yolks of four eggs in a basin with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel,
+and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants
+washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins ready
+lined with puff paste, about a quarter of an inch thick; notch them all
+round the edge, and fill each with the curd.
+
+Bake them twenty minutes.
+
+
+BRIDE CAKE.
+
+    The bridal came; great the feast,
+    And good the _bride cake_ and the priest.
+                    SMART.
+
+Take four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded and
+sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity of
+nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and pick four
+pounds of currants, and dry them before the fire; blanch a pound of
+sweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a
+pound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, and half pint of
+brandy; first work the butter to a cream; then beat in your sugar a
+quarter of an hour; beat the white of your eggs to a very strong froth;
+mix them with your sugar and butter; beat the yolks half an hour at
+least, and mix them with your cake; then put in your flour, mace, and
+nutmeg; keep beating it till your oven is ready; put in your brandy;
+beat the currants and almonds lightly in; tie three sheets of paper
+round the bottoms of your hoops, to keep it from running out; rub it
+well with butter; put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers,
+with cake between every layer; after it is risen and colored, cover it
+with paper.
+
+It takes three hours baking.
+
+
+KISSES.
+
+    "I never give a _kiss_," says Prue,
+      "To naughty man, for I abhor it."
+    She will not give a _kiss_, 'tis true,
+      She'll take one, though, and thank you for it.
+                    FROM THE FRENCH.
+
+One pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted, the whites of
+four eggs, twelve drops of essence of lemon, a teacup of currant jelly.
+Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat in
+gradually the sugar, a teaspoonful at a time. Add the essence of lemon,
+and beat the whole very hard. Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom of
+a square tin pan. Drop on it at equal distances a small teaspoonful of
+currant jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of eggs
+and sugar on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on the
+mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a round
+smooth shape. Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored,
+they are done. Then take them out, and place two bottoms together. Lay
+them lightly on a sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two
+bottoms stick fast together, so as to form one oval or ball.
+
+
+SWEET MACAROONS.
+
+    Where _cakes_ luxuriant pile the spacious dish,
+      And purple nectar glads the festive hour,
+    The guest, without a want, without a wish,
+      Can yield no room to music's soothing power.
+                    JOHNSON.
+
+Blanch a pound of sweet almonds; throw them into cold water for a few
+minutes; lay them in a napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-four
+hours; at the end of that time, pound them, a handful at a time, adding
+occasionally some white of egg, till the whole is reduced to a fine
+paste; then take two pounds of the best lump sugar; pound and sift it;
+then put it to the almonds with the grated rinds of two lemons; beat
+these ingredients together in the mortar, adding, one at a time, as many
+eggs as you find necessary to moisten the paste, which should be thin,
+but not too much so, as in that case it would run; your paste being
+ready, take out a little in a spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets of
+white paper, either round or oval, as you please; lay them at least an
+inch apart, because they spread in baking, and, if put nearer, would
+touch.
+
+The whole of your paste being used, place the sheets of paper on tins in
+a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour.
+
+This kind of cake requires great care.
+
+
+SYLLABUB.
+
+    Mountown! the Muses' most delicious theme,
+    O, may thy codlins ever swim in cream!
+    The rasp and strawberries in Bordeaux drown,
+    To add a redder tincture to their own!
+    Thy white wine, sugar, milk, together club,
+    To make that gentle viand--_syllabub_!
+                    KING.
+
+    Not all thy plate, how formed soe'er it be,
+    Can please my palate like a bowl of thee.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+In a large china bowl put a pint of port and a pint of sherry, or other
+white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full; in twenty minutes cover
+it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg; put pounded
+cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. It is very good without the nonpareil
+comfits.
+
+
+BEER OR ALE.
+
+    O, Peggy, Peggy! when thou goest to brew,
+    Consider well what you're about to do;
+    Be very wise, very sedately think
+    That what you're now going to make is _drink_;
+    Consider who must drink that drink, and then
+    What 'tis to have the praise of _honest_ men;
+    For surely, Peggy, while that drink does last,
+    'Tis Peggy will be _toasted or disgraced_.
+    Then if thy _ale_ in glass thou wouldst confine,
+    To make its sparkling rays in beauty shine,
+    Let thy clean bottle be entirely dry,
+    Lest a white substance to the surface fly,
+    And floating there disturb the curious eye;
+    But this great maxim must be understood,
+    "_Be sure, nay very sure, thy cork be good_."
+    Then future ages shall of Peggy tell,
+    That nymph that _brewed and bottled ale so well_!
+                    KING.
+
+Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for
+either, pour the whole quantity of water, hot, but not boiling, on at
+once, and let it infuse three hours, close covered; mash it in the first
+half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the
+hops, previously infused in water; for beer, three quarters of a pound
+to a bushel; if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort, two
+hours, from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful; then add three
+quarts of yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when
+ready next day; but, if possible, put together the same night. Sun, as
+usual. Cover the bunghole with paper, when the beer has done working;
+and when it is to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops,
+dried before the fire; put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up.
+
+Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be
+drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be
+brewed in the beginning of March. Great care must be taken that bottles
+are perfectly prepared, and _the corks are of the best sort_.
+
+The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the vent-peg be
+never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the last. Allow two
+gallons of water, at first, for waste.
+
+After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half
+for the twelve bushels; and a hogshead of water, if eight were brewed.
+Mash, and let stand; and then boil, &c.
+
+
+ORIGIN OF MINT JULEPS.
+
+    'Tis said that the gods, on Olympus of old,
+      (And who the bright legend profanes with a doubt!)
+    One night, 'mid their revels, by Bacchus were told,
+      That his last butt of nectar had somehow run out.
+
+    But determined to send round the goblet once more,
+      They sued to the fairer mortals for aid
+    In composing a draught, which till drinking were o'er,
+      Should cast every wine ever drank in the shade.
+
+    Grave Ceres herself blithely yielded her corn,
+      And the spirit that lives in each amber-hued grain,
+    And which first had its birth from the dews of the morn,
+      Was taught to steal out in bright dew-drops again.
+
+    Pomona, whose choicest of fruits on the board
+      Were scattered profusely, in every one's reach,
+    When called on a tribute to cull from the hoard,
+      Express'd the mild juice of the delicate peach.
+
+    The liquids were mingled, while Venus looked on,
+      With glances so fraught with sweet magical power,
+    That the honey of Hybla, e'en when they were gone,
+      Has never been missed in the draught from that hour.
+
+    Flora then from her bosom of fragrancy shook,
+      And with roseate fingers pressed down in the bowl,
+    All dripping and fresh as it came from the brook,
+      The _herb_ whose aroma should flavor the whole.
+
+    The draught was delicious, each god did exclaim,
+      Though something yet wanting they all did bewail;
+    But _juleps_ the drink of immortals became,
+      When Jove himself added a handful of hail.
+                    HOFFMAN.
+
+
+PUNCH.
+
+    Four elements, joined in
+      An emulous strife,
+    Fashion the world, and
+      Constitute life.
+
+    From the sharp citron
+      The starry juice pour;
+    Acid to life is
+      The innermost core.
+
+    Now, let the sugar
+      The bitter one meet;
+    Still be life's bitter
+      Tamed down with the sweet!
+
+    Let the bright water
+      Flow into the bowl;
+    Water, the calm one,
+      Embraces the whole.
+
+    Drops from the spirit
+      Pour quick'ning within,
+    Life but its life from
+      The spirit can win.
+
+    Haste, while it gloweth,
+      Your vessels to bring;
+    The wave has but virtue
+      Drunk hot from the spring.
+                    TRANSLATED FROM SCHILLER.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  A la Braise, Beef, 37
+  Artichokes, 75
+  Asparagus, 80
+  Apple Dumplings, 106
+  Apple Pudding, 100
+  Almond Creams, 111
+  Ale, 133
+
+  Broth, Chicken, 24
+  Boiled Salmon, 29
+  Beef, Roast, 36
+  Beef, Baked with Potatoes, 38
+  Beef, Ragout, 39
+  Beef, Kidneys, 39
+  Broiled Beefsteaks, 40
+  Beef, Salt, 42
+  Birds, Potted, 58
+  Beans, Lima, 75
+  Batter Pudding, 105
+  Butter, 115
+  Bread, 112
+  Bride Cake, 128
+  Biscuits, Naples, 123
+  Biscuits, Sugar, 125
+  Buckwheat Cakes, 117
+  Beer, 133
+
+  Calf's Liver, Roasted, 44
+  Calf's Head, Surprised, 45
+  Calf's Head, Roasted, 46
+  Capon, 51
+  Chicken Croquettes, 51
+  Carrots, 81
+  Cranberry Sauce, 70
+  Caper Sauce, 70
+  Cabbage, Pickled, 85
+  Cocoanut Pudding, 100
+  Charlotte des Pommes, 104
+  Custards or Creams, 111
+  Custards, Boiled, 110
+  Cottage Cheese, 116
+  Cheesecakes, 127
+  Cracknels, 126
+
+  Derby Cakes, 126
+
+  Eggs, To Poach, 91
+  Eggs, Boiled, 92
+  Eggs and Bread, 93
+  Eggs, Fried, 93
+  Eve's Pudding, 104
+
+  Fish White, To Stew, 25
+  Fish White, Another Way to Stew, 26
+  Fish Brown, To Stew, 27
+  Forcemeat Balls, 60
+  Fowl a la Hollandaise, 49
+  Fruit Pies, 96
+  Fritters, 107
+  Fritters, Sweetmeat, 106
+
+  Gingerbread, Lafayette, 121
+  Gingerbread, 124
+
+  Hams, To Cure, 52
+  Ham Pies, 53
+  Hare, Roasted, 54
+  Herbs, 82
+  Hasty Pudding, 101
+  Honey Cake, 123
+
+  Ice Cream, 109
+  Indian and Rye Bread, 114
+
+  Jelly, Currant, 87
+  Jelly, Cherry, 89
+  Jelly, Apple, 88
+  Jelly, Calves' feet, 89
+  Johnny Cakes, 118
+
+  Ketchup, Mushroom, 65
+  Kisses, 129
+
+  Lobster, Boiled, 30
+  Larks, 58
+  Leeks, 81
+
+  Mutton, Leg of, 52
+  Macaroni Gratin, 63
+  Mint Sauce, 69
+  Mushrooms, To Stew, 64
+  Mangoes, 84
+  Mince Pies, 98
+  Macaroons, Sweet, 130
+  Muffins, 118
+  Mint Juleps, Origin of, 135
+
+  Naples Biscuit, 123
+
+  Oatmeal Pudding, 103
+  Oysters, 31
+  Oysters, Fried, 31
+  Oysters, Stewed, 32
+  Oysters, Scalloped, 33
+  Oyster Loaves, 33
+  Oyster Pattie, 62
+  Ortolans, To Roast, 56
+  Onion Sauce, 74
+  Omelet, 91
+  Omelette, Souffle, 94
+  Orange Custards, 110
+
+  Perch with Wine, 27
+  Patties for Fried Bread, 62
+  Pheasants, To Roast, 56
+  Potatoes, 76
+  Peas, 78
+  Pineapple Preserve, 90
+  Puff Paste, 95
+  Pyramid Paste, 96
+  Plum Pudding, 99
+  Plum Cake, 120
+  Pancakes, 119
+  Punch, 137
+
+  Roasted Sturgeon, 28
+  Rabbits, Fricasseed, 54
+  Rice, 79
+  Rye Bread, 114
+
+  Soup, Turtle, 21
+  Scotch Haggis, 41
+  Scotch Collops, 44
+  Salmis of Wild Duck, 47
+  Stewed Duck and Peas, 48
+  Salad, To Dress, 73
+  Spinach, 79
+  Sponge Cake, 124
+  Superlative Sauce, 68
+  Syllabub, 132
+  Sugar, To Clarify, 86
+  Suet Pudding, 103
+  Shrewsbury Cakes, 122
+
+  Tongues, To Pickle, for Boiling, 43
+  Truffles, 63
+  Turkey, Boiled, 50
+  Turkey, Devilled, 50
+  Turnips, 79
+
+  Venison, 35
+  Venison, Pasty, 36
+  Veal, Stewed Fillet, 45
+  Veal, Stuffing for, 60
+  Vol au Vent, 61
+  Vegetables, 72
+
+  Woodcocks, 57
+  Whipped Cream, 109
+
+  Yorkshire Pudding, 102
+  Yeast, 112
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+
+  The following typographical errors have been fixed:
+
+  Page    Error
+  44      stew the liver changed to sew the liver
+  Footnote 56-*  leur foie.' changed to leur foie."
+  74      KING changed to KING.
+  77      uncover the soucepan changed to uncover the saucepan
+  126     to night changed to tonight
+
+  Inconsistently spelled words
+
+  Cawthorn / Cawthorne
+  fryingpan / frying-pan
+  lemon juice / lemon-juice
+  pates / pates
+  peppercorns / pepper-corns
+  stewpan / stew-pan
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
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