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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:29:02 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 02:29:02 -0700 |
| commit | 522b550b388f245bb85ae8aae8e854bd4422b5af (patch) | |
| tree | fc6d76d03b0cccaad28fda749d5252ab6006fa26 | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/26484-8.txt b/26484-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3682e1 --- /dev/null +++ b/26484-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9365 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 61, +No. 380, June, 1847, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 61, No. 380, June, 1847 + +Author: Various + +Release Date: August 29, 2008 [EBook #26484] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, MAY, 1847 *** + + + + +Produced by Brendan OConnor, Jonathan Ingram, Josephine +Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Library of Early +Journals.) + + + + + + + + + +BLACKWOOD'S + +EDINBURGH MAGAZINE. + +No. CCCLXXX. JUNE, 1847. Vol. LXI. + + + + +NORTH AMERICA, SIBERIA, AND RUSSIA.[A] + + +The circumnavigation of the world is now a matter of ordinary occurrence +to our bold mariners: and after a few years it will be a sort of summer +excursion to our steamers. We shall have the requisitions of the +Travellers' Club more stringent as the sphere of action grows wider; and +no man will be eligible who has not paid a visit to Pekin, or sunned +himself in Siam. + +But a circuit of the globe on _terra firma_ is, we believe, new. Sir +George Simpson will have no competitor, that we have ever heard, to +claim from him the honour of having first galloped right a-head--from +the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Pacific to the British +Channel. One or two slight divergencies of some thousand miles down the +smooth and sunny bosom of the Pacific, are to be reckoned as mere +episodes: but Sir George soon recovers his course, plunges in through +the regions of the polar star; defies time, trouble, and Tartary; +marches in the track of tribes, of which all but the names have expired; +follows the glories of conquerors, whose bones have mingled five hundred +years ago with the dust of the desert; gives a flying glance on one side +towards the Wall of China, and on the other towards the Arctic Circle; +still presses on, till he reaches the confines of the frozen +civilisation of the Russian empire; and sweeps along, among bowing +governors and prostrate serfs,--still but emerging from barbarism--until +he does homage to the pomp of the Russian court, and finally lands in +the soil of freedom, funds, and the income tax. + +What the actual object of all this gyration may have been, is not +revealed, nor, probably, _revealable_ by a "Governor of the Hudson's Bay +territories," who, having the fear of _other_ governors before his eyes, +dedicates his two handsome volumes to "The Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company;" but the late negotiations on Oregon, the Russian interest in +the new empire rising on the shore of the Northern Pacific, the vigorous +efforts of Russia to turn its Siberian world into a place of human +habitancy, and the unexpected interest directed to those regions by the +discovery of gold deposits which throw the old wealth of the Spanish +main into the shade, _might_ be sufficient motives for the curiosity of +an individual of intelligence, and for the anxious inquiries of a great +company, bordering on two mighty powers in North America, both of them +more remarkable for the vigour of their ambition than for the reverence +of their hunters and fishers for the _jus gentium_. + +Those volumes, then, will supply a general and a very well conceived +estimate of immense tracts of the globe, hitherto but little known to +the English public. The view is clear, quick, and discriminative. The +countries of which it gives us a new knowledge are probably destined to +act with great power on our interests, some as the rivals of our +commerce, some as the depôts of our manufactures, and some as the +recipients of that overflow of population which Europe is now pouring +out from all her fields on the open wilderness of the world. + +This spread of emigration to the north is a curious instance of the +reflux of the human tide; for, from the north evidently was Europe +originally peopled. Japhet was a powerful propeller; and often as he has +dwelt in the tents of Shem, he is likely to overwhelm the whole +territory of the southern brother once more. The Turk, the Egyptian, the +man of Asia Minor, the man of Thrace, will yet be but tribes in that +army of the new Xerxes which, pouring from Moscow, and impelled from St +Petersburg, will renew the invasions of Genghiz and Tamerlane, and try +the civilized strength of the west against the wild courage and +countless multitudes of Tartary. Into this strange, but important, and +prospectively powerful country, we now follow the traveller. Embarking +from Liverpool in the Caledonia, a vessel of 1300 tons and 450 horse +power, he was amply prepared to face the perils of the most stormy of +all oceans, the Atlantic. The run across lad the usual fortunes of all +voyages, and within a week after their departure from _terra firma_ they +saw a whale, who saw them with rather more indifference, for he lay +lounging on the surface until the steamer had nearly run over him. At +last he dived down, and was seen no more. Next day, while there was so +little wind, that all their light canvass was set, they saw the +phenomenon of a ship under close-reefed topsails. This apparent timidity +was laughed at by some of the passengers, but the more experienced +guessed that the vessel had come out of a gale, of which they were +likely to have a share before long, a conjecture which was soon +verified. + +On the morning of the 9th day, the captain, discovering that the +barometer had fallen between two and three inches during the night, due +preparations were of course made to meet the storm. It came on in the +afternoon, a hurricane. Then followed the usual havock of boats and +canvass, the surges making a clean breach over the deck; the passengers, +of course, gave themselves up for lost, and even the crew are said to +have been pretty nearly of the same opinion. However, the wind went down +at last, the sea grew comparatively smooth, and in twenty-four hours +more, they found themselves on the banks of Newfoundland. The writer +thinks that it was fortunate for them that the storm had not caught them +in the short swell of these shallow waters, as was probably the case of +the President, whose melancholy fate so long excited, and still excites +a feeling of surprise and sorrow in the public mind. + +It was lost in this very storm. Next day came another of the sea +wonders. The cry of land started them all from the dinner table; but the +land happened to be an immense field of ice, which, with the +inequalities of its surface and the effect of refraction, presented some +appearance of a wooded country. On that night the cry of "Light a-head," +while they were still several hundred miles from land, excited new +astonishment. "All the knowing ones" clearly distinguished a magnificent +revolver. The paddles were accordingly stopped to have a cast of the +lead, but in another half hour it was ascertained that the revolver was +a newly risen star. + +At length land was really seen, and after a run of fourteen days, they +cast anchor in the harbour of Halifax. But as Boston was their true +destination they steered for it at once. Their progress had been rapid, +for they entered Boston Bay in thirty-six hours from Halifax, a distance +of 390 miles. Boston is more English looking than New York. The gently +undulating shores of the bay, highly cultivated, bring to memory the +green hills of England, and within the town the buildings and the +inhabitants have a peculiarly English air. + +As speed was an object, the party immediately left the town by the +railway, passing through Lowell and reaching Nashua. This is one of the +rapid growths of America. In 1819 this place was a village of but +nineteen houses. It now contains 19,000 inhabitants, with churches, +hotels, prisons, and banks. Here the party went off in two detachments, +one in a sleigh with six horses, and the other rattled along in a +coach-and-four. At the next stage the author exchanged the coach for a +sleigh, a matter of no great importance to the world, but which may be +mentioned as a caution against rash changes. For the first few miles the +new conveyance went on merrily, and the passengers congratulated +themselves on their wisdom. We must now let him speak for himself. + +"The sun, as the day advanced, kept thawing the snow, till at last, on +coming to a deep drift, we were repeatedly obliged to get out, sometimes +walking up to the knees, and sometimes helping to lift the vehicle out +of the snow. However, at length we fairly stuck fast, in spite of all +our hauling and pushing. The horses struggled and plunged to no purpose, +excepting that the leaders, after breaking part of their tackle, +galloped off over the hills and far away, leaving us to kick our heels +in the slush, till they were brought back after a chase of several +miles." + +The road now passed through Vermont, the state of green mountains. The +country appeared striking; and Montpelier, where they breakfasted, seems +to be a very pretty place, looking more the residence of hereditary ease +and luxury, than the capital of a republic of thrifty graziers. It is, +in fact, an assemblage of villas; the wide streets run between rows of +trees, and the houses, each in its own little garden, are shaded by +verandas. + +In that very pleasant little book, the "Miseries of Human Life," one of +those small calamities is, the being called at the wrong hour to go off +in the wrong coach from a Yorkshire inn. Time and the railroad have +changed all this in England, but in America we have the primitive misery +well described. + +The author, after forty-two hours of hard jolting, goes to bed at one +o'clock to obtain a little repose, leaving orders to be called at five +in the morning. He is wrapt in the profoundest of all possible slumbers, +when a peal of blows is heard at his door. "In spite, however, of +laziness, and a cold morning to boot," he says, "I had completed the +operations of washing and dressing by candlelight, having even donned +hat and gloves, to join my companions, when the waiter entered my room +with a grin. 'I guess,' said the rascal, 'I have put my foot in it. Are +you the man that wanted to be called at two?' 'No,' was my reply. +'Then,' said he, 'I calculate I have fixed the wrong man, so you had +better go to bed again.' Having delivered himself of this friendly +advice, he went to awaken my neighbour, who had all this time been +quietly enjoying the sleep that properly belonged to me. Instead of +following the fellow's recommendation, I sat up for the rest of the +night." Whether the author possessed a watch we cannot tell, but if he +was master of that useful and not very rare article, he might have saved +himself his premature trouble, and escaped shaving at midnight. + +On crossing into the Canadian territory, he encounters one of those +evidences of popular liberty which belong to rather the American than +the English side. In the village of St John's, some of the party went +a-head to the principal inn, and as it was late at night, and their +knocking produced no effect, they appealed to what they regarded as the +most accessible of the landlord's susceptibilities, his pocket, by +saying that they were fourteen, more coming, with a whole host of +drivers. This appeal was the most unlucky possible, for the landlord had +another sensibility, the fear of being tarred and feathered, if not +hanged. On the door being opened at last, the landlord was not to be +found; his brother wandered about, the very ghost of despair. The +establishment was searched upside and downside, inside and outside, in +vain; and they began to think themselves the cause of some domestic +tragedy; but it must have been a late perpetration, for on looking into +his bed, they found the lair warm. + +However, after a short time, mine host returned with a face all smiles. +The mystery was then explained. The election had taken place during the +day, and the landlord, having taken the part of the candidate who +eventually succeeded, was threatened with vengeance by the losing party. +The arrival of the travellers convinced him that his hour was come, and +he had jumped out of bed and hidden himself in some inscrutable corner. +But a good supper reconciled every thing. + +The author crossed the ice to Montreal, and had a showy view of the +metropolis of the Canadas. A curious observation is suggested by +Montreal, on the different characters of the English and French +population. In the days of Wolf and Amherst, it was all French; but +John Bull, with his spirit of activity and industry, has quietly become +master of all the trading situations of the city, while the French have +as quietly retreated, and spread themselves through the upper sections +of it, to a great degree cut off from its commercial portions. + +From Montreal the travel began. The heavy canoes were sent forward some +days before, under the charge of some of the Company's officers, the +light canoes waited for the author, with Colonel Oldfield, chief +engineer in Canada, who was going up the country on a survey of the +navigation, and the Earls of Mulgrave and Caledon, who were going to the +Red River, buffalo-hunting. + +All was now ready in form, and on the 4th of May the two canoes were +floating on the Lactrine canal. The crews, thirteen to one vessel, and +fourteen to the other, were partly Canadians, but principally Iroquois. +Those _voyageurs_, as they are called, had each been supplied with a +feather in his cap, in honour of the occasion, and evidently expected to +produce a _sensation_ on shore. But a north-wester blowing prevented the +hoisting of their flags, which mulcted the pageant of much of its +intended glory. These canoes are thirty-five feet in length, and five +feet wide in the centre; drawing about eighteen inches water, and +weighing between three and four hundred pounds; capitally fitted for a +navigation among rocks, rapids, and portages; but they seem most +uncomfortable in rough weather. The waves of the St Lawrence rolled like +a sea, the gale was biting, and the snow drifted heavily in the faces of +the party. In this luckless condition, we are not surprised at the +intelligence, that at St Anne's Rapids, notwithstanding the authority of +the poet, "they sang no evening hymn." + +This style of travelling was not certainly much mingled with luxury. +Next morning, after "toiling for six hours," they breakfasted, "with the +wet ground for their table, and with rain in place of milk to cool their +tea." On this day, while running close under the falls of the Rideau, +they seem to have had a narrow escape from a _finale_ to their voyage; +their canoes being swept into the middle of the river, under an immense +fall, fifty feet in height. + +They now learned the art of _bivouaching_, and after a day of toiling +through portages, reserving the severest of them, the Grand Calumet, for +the renewed vigour of the morning, they made ready for the forest night. +The description, brief as it is, is one among many which shows the +_artist_ eye. + +"The tents were pitched in a small clump of pines, while round a blazing +fire the passengers were collected, amid a medley of boxes, barrels, +cloaks, and on the rock above the foaming rapids were lying the canoes; +the men flitting about the fires as if they were enjoying a holiday, and +watching a huge cauldron suspended above the fire. The whole with a +background of dense woods and a lake." + +Yet, startling as this "wooing of nature" in her rough moods may seem to +the silk-and-velvet portion of the world, we doubt whether this wild +life, with its desperate toil and its ground sleep, may not be the true +charm of travel to saint, savage, or sage, when once fairly forced to +the experiment. The blazing fire, the bed of leaves, the gay supper, +made gayer still by incomparable appetite, and the sleep after all, in +which the whole outward man remains imbedded, without the movement of a +muscle and without a dream, until the morning awakes him up a new being, +are fully worth all the inventions of art, to make us enjoy rest +unearned by fatigue, and food without waiting for appetite. "The sleep +of the weary man is sweet," said the ancient and wise king who slept +among curtains of gold, and under roofs of cedar; the true way to taste +that sleep is to spend a day, dragging canoes up Indian portages, and +lie down with one's feet warmed by a pine blaze and one's back to the +shelter of a forest. + +But, as the time will assuredly come when this "life in the woods" will +be no more, when huge inns will supersede the canopy of the skies, and +down beds will make the memory of birch twigs and heather blossoms pass +away, we give from authority the proceedings of an evening's rest, which +the next generation will study with somewhat of the feeling of reading +Tacitus De Moribus Germanorum. + +As the sun approached his setting, every eye in the canoes, as they +pulled along, was speculating on some dry and tolerably open spot on the +shore. _That_ once found, all were on shore in an instant. Then the axe +was heard ringing among the trees, to prepare for the fires, and make +room for the tents. In ten minutes, the tents were pitched, the fires +blazing in front of each, and the supper preparing in all its +diversities. The beds were next made, consisting of an oil-cloth laid on +the ground, with blankets and a pillow; occasionally aided by +great-coats, _à discretion_. The crews, drawing the canoes on shore, +first made an inspection of their hurts during the day; and having done +this, the little vessels were turned into a shelter, and each man +wrapping himself in his blanket defied the weather and the world. + +But this state of happiness was never destined to last long. About _one_ +in the morning, the cry, of "_Leve_, _leve_," broke all slumbers. We +must acknowledge that the hour seems premature, and that the most +patient of travellers might have solicited a couple of hours more of +"tired Nature's sweet restorer." But the discipline of the bivouac was +Spartan. If the slumberer did not instantly start up, the tent was +pulled down about him, and he found himself half-smothered in canvass. +However, we must presume that this seldom happened, and, within half an +hour, every thing would be packed, the canoes laden, and the paddles +moving to some "merry old song." In this manner passed the day, six +hours of rest, to eighteen of labour, a tremendous disproportion, even +to the sturdy Englishman, or the active Irishman, but perfectly +congenial to the sinews and spirit of the gay _voyageur_. + +A few touches more give the complete picture of the day. About eight, a +convenient site would be selected for breakfast. Three-quarters of an +hour being the whole time allotted for unpacking and packing, boiling +and frying, eating and drinking. "While the preliminaries were +arranging, the _hardier_ among us would wash and shave, each person +carrying soap and towel in his pocket, and finding a _mirror_ in the +same sandy or rocky basin which held the water. About two in the +afternoon, we put ashore for dinner, and as this meal needed no fire, +or, at least, got none, it was not allowed to occupy more than twenty +minutes, or half an hour." + +We recommend the following considerations to the amateur boat clubs, and +others, who plume themselves on their naval achievements between Putney +and Vauxhall bridges. Let them take the work of a Canadian paddle-man to +heart, and lower their plumage accordingly. + +"The quality of the work, even more than the quantity, requires +operatives of iron mould. In smooth water, the paddle is plied with +twice the rapidity of the oar, taxing both arms and lungs to the utmost +extent. Amid shallows, the canoe is literally dragged by the men, wading +to their knees or their loins, while each poor fellow, after replacing +his drier half in his seat, laughingly strikes the heavier of the wet +from his legs over the gunwale, before he gives them an inside berth. In +rapids, the towing line has to be hauled along over rocks and stumps, +through swamps and thickets, excepting that when the ground is utterly +impracticable, poles are substituted, and occasionally also the bushes +on the shore." + +This however is "plain sailing," to the Portages, where the tracks are +of all imaginable kinds and degrees of badness, and the canoes and their +cargoes are never carried across in less than two or three trips; the +little vessels alone monopolizing, in the first turn, the more expert +half of their respective crews. Of the baggage, each man has to carry at +least two pieces, estimated at a hundred and eighty pounds weight, which +he suspends in slings placed across his forehead, so that he may have +his hands free, to clear his way among the branches and standing or +fallen trunks. Besides all this, the _voyageur_ performs the part of +bridge, or jetty, on the arrival of the canoe at its place of rest, the +gentlemen passengers being carried on shore on the backs of these +good-humoured and sinewy fellows. + +For the benefit of the untravelled, we should say, that a Portage is the +fragment of land-passage between the foot and head of a rapid, when the +rush of the stream is too strong for the tow-rope. + +At one of the halting-places on Lake Superior, a curious tale was told +of the Indian's belief in a Providence, of which it had been the scene. + +Three or four years before, a party of Salteaux, much pressed for +hunger, were anxious to reach one of their fishing stations, an island +about twenty miles from the shore. The spring had unluckily reached that +point, when there was neither clear water, nor trustworthy ice. A +council was being held, to consider the hard alternatives of drowning +and starving, when an old man of influence thus spoke: + +"You know, my friends, that the Great Spirit gave one of our squaws a +child yesterday; now, he cannot have sent it into the world to take it +away again directly. I should therefore recommend the carrying the child +with us, as the pledge of safety." + +We wish that we could have to record a successful issue to this +anticipation. But the transit was too much for the metaphysics of the +old Indian. They went on the treacherous ice, it gave way, and +eight-and-twenty perished. + +The Thunder Mountain on their route, struck them as "one of the most +appalling objects" which they had seen, being a bleak rock twelve +hundred feet high above the level of the lake, with a perpendicular face +of its full height. The Indians say, that any one who can scale it, and +"turn three times on the brink of its fearful wall, will live for ever." +We presume, by dying first. + +But the shores of this mighty lake, or rather fresh-water sea, which +seemed destined to loneliness for ever, are now likely to hear the din +of population and blaze with furnaces and factories. Its southern coasts +are found to possess rich veins of copper and silver. Later inquiry has +discovered on the northern shore "inexhaustible treasures of gold, +silver, copper, and tin," and associations have been already formed to +work them. Sir George Simpson even speaks of the future probability of +their rivalling in point of wealth the Altai chain, and the Uralian +mountains. + +From Fort William, at the head of Lake Superior, the little expedition +entered a river with a polysyllabic name, which leads farther on, to the +"Far West." The banks were beautiful. When this country shall be +peopled, it will be one of the resemblances of the primitive paradise. + +It is all picturesque; the river finely diversified with rapids, and +with one cataract which, though less in volume than Niagara, throws that +far-famed fall into the background, in point of height and wildness of +scenery. But we must leave description to the author's pen. "The river, +during this day's march, passed through forests of elm, oak, birch, &c., +being studded with isles not less fertile and lovely than its banks. And +many a spot reminded us of the rich and quiet scenery of England. The +paths of the numerous portages were spangled with roses, violets, and +many other wild flowers--while the currant, the gooseberry, the +raspberry, the plum, the cherry, and even the vine, were abundant. All +this bounty of nature was imbued, as it were, with life, by the cheerful +notes of a variety of birds, and by the restless flutter of butterflies +of the brightest hues." He then makes the natural and graceful +reflection-- + +"One cannot pass through this fair valley without feeling that it is +destined to become, sooner or later, the happy home of civilised men, +with their bleating flocks, and their lowing herds--with their schools +and their churches--with their full garners, and their social hearths. +At the time of our visit, the great obstacle in the way of so blessed a +consummation was the hopeless wilderness to the eastward, which seemed +to bar for ever the march of settlement and cultivation, but which will +soon be an open road to the far west with all its riches. That +wilderness, now that it is to yield up its long-hidden stores, bids fair +to remove the impediments which hitherto it has itself presented. The +mines of Lake Superior, besides establishing a continuity of route +between the East and the West, will find their nearest and cheapest +supply of agricultural produce in the valley of the Kaministaquoia." + +One of the especial hazards of the forest now encountered them. Passing +down a narrow creek near _Lac le Pluie_, fire suddenly burst forth in +the woods near them. The flames crackling and clambering up each tree, +quickly rose above the forest; within a few minutes more the dry grass +on the very margin of the waters, was in "a running blaze, and before +they were clear of the danger, they were almost enveloped in clouds of +smoke and ashes. These conflagrations, often caused by a wanderer's +fire, or even by his pipe, desolate large tracts of country, leaving +nothing but black and bare trunks, one of the most dismal scenes on +which the eye can look. When once the fire gets into the thick turf of +the primeval wilderness, it sets every thing at defiance. It has been +known to smoulder for a whole winter under the deep snow." + +Another Indian display quickly followed. After traversing the lake, they +were hailed by the warriors of the Salteaux, a band of about a hundred, +the fighting men of a tribe of five hundred. Their five chiefs presented +a congratulatory address on their safe arrival, requesting an audience, +which was appointed, at the rather undiplomatic hour of _four_ next +morning. But, while the Governor was slumbering, the Indians were +preparing means of persuasion more effective, in their conceptions, than +even the oratory on which they seem to pride themselves very +highly--"while they were napping, the enemy were pelting away at them +with their incantations." + +In the centre of a conjuring tent--a structure of branches and bark, +forty feet in length by ten in width--they kindled a fire; round the +blaze stood the chiefs and "medicine men," while as many others as could +find room were squatted against the walls. Then, to enlighten and +convert the Governor, charms were muttered, rattles were shaken, and +offerings were committed to the flames. After all these operations the +silent spectators, at a given signal, started on their feet and marched +round the magic circle, singing, whooping, and drumming in horrible +discord. With occasional intervals, which were spent by the performers +in taking fresh air, the exhibition continued during the whole night, so +that when the appointed hour arrived they were still engaged in their +observances. At length the two parties met in the open square of the +fort. The Indians dressed in all their glory, a part of which consists +in smearing their faces entirely out of sight with colours--the +prevailing fashion being, forehead white, nose and cheeks red, mouth and +chin black. + +The Governor and his party of course made their best effort to meet all +this magnificence. Lord Caledon and Lord Mulgrave exhibited in +regimentals; the rest put on their _dressing-gowns_, which, being of +showy patterns, were equally effective. Seated in the "hall of +conference," the pipes being sent round, hands shaken, and all due +ceremonial having been performed, the Indian orator commenced his +harangue in the style with which we have now become familiar. Beginning +with the creation, &c. &c., which Sir George cut short, and suddenly +dropping down into the practical complaint, "that we had stopped their +rum," though our predecessors had promised to furnish it "as long as the +waters flowed down the rapids." "Now," said he, in allusion to our empty +casks, "if I crack a nut, will water flow from it?" + +The Governor replied, that the withdrawal of the rum was _not_ to save +expense but to benefit them. He then gave them his advice on temperance, +and promised them a small quantity of rum every autumn. He also promised +a present for their civility in bringing their packet of furs, for which +they should receive payment besides. Then followed a general and final +shaking of hands, and the Congress between the English and Chippaway +nations broke up to their mutual satisfaction. + +The Red River settlement, of which we heard so often during the quarrels +between Lord Selkirk and the Company, will yet be a great colony; the +soil is very fertile (one of the most important elements of +colonisation,) its early tillage producing forty returns of wheat; and, +even after twenty years of tillage, without manure, fallow, or green +crop, yielding from fifteen to twenty-five bushels an acre. The wheat +is plump and heavy, and, besides, there are large quantities of other +grain, with beef, mutton, pork, butter, cheese, and wool in abundance. +This would be the true country for emigration from our impoverished +islands, and will, of course, be crowded when conveyances shall become +more manageable. A railroad across Canada must still be a rather Utopian +conception, but it might be well worth the expense of making by +government, even though it produced nothing for the next half-dozen +years, for the multitudes whom it would carry through the heart of this +superb country in the half-dozen years after, and for the wealth which +they would pour into England in every year to come. + +The settlement, however, meets, in its turn, the common chances of an +American climate. In winter the cold is intense. The summer is short, +and the rivers sometimes overflow and drown the crops. Still what are +these things to the population, where food is plenty, the air healthy, +and the ground cheap, fertile and untaxed. In fact, the difficulties, in +such instances, are scarcely more than incitements to the ingenuity of +man, to provide resources against them. The season of snow is a time of +cheerfulness in every land of the north. In Denmark, Russia, and Canada, +when the rivers close up, business is laid by for the next six months; +and the time of dancing, driving, and feasting begins. Food is the great +requisite; when that is found, every thing follows. + +In addition to agriculture, or in place of it, the settlers, more +particularly those of mixed origin, devote the summer, the autumn, and +sometimes the winter also, to the hunting of the buffalo, bringing home +vast quantities of pemmican, dried meat, grease, tongues, &c. for which +the Company and voyaging business affords the best market. + +The party now proceeded, still with their faces turned to the west, and +marched for some days over an immense prairie, which seemed to them to +have been once the bottom of a huge lake. A rather striking circumstance +is, that nearly every height in this region has its romance of savage +life. We give one of murder, for the benefit of the modern school of +novelists. + +Many summers ago, a party of Assinabaians fell on a party of Crees in +the neighbourhood of the Beatte a Carcajar, a conspicuous knoll in this +neighbourhood, and nearly destroyed them all. Among the assailants was +the former wife of one of the Crees, who had been carried off from him, +in an earlier foray, by her present lord and master. From whatever +motive of domestic memory, this Amazon rushed into the thickest of the +fight, for the evident purpose of killing the original husband. He, +however, escaped; and while the victors were scalping his unfortunate +companions, creeping stealthily along for a whole day under cover of the +woods, he laid down at night in a hollow at the top of the Knoll. But +his wife had never lost sight of him, and no sooner had he, in the +exhaustion of hunger and fatigue, sunk into a sound sleep, than she sent +an arrow into his brain. She then possessed herself of his scalp, and +exhibited it as her prize to the victors. The title of the slain savage +was the Wolverine, and the spot is still called the Wolverine's Knoll. + +The Indians assert that the ghosts of the murderess and her victim are +often to be seen struggling on the height. + +Human nature, left to itself, is a fierce and frightful thing; and the +stories of savage life are nearly all of the same calibre, and all +exhibit a dreadful love of revenge. About twenty years ago, a large +encampment of Black-feet and others, had been formed in those prairies +for the purpose of hunting. The warriors, however, growing tired of +their peaceful occupation, resolved to make an incursion into the lands +of the Assinabaians. They left behind them the old men with the women +and children. After a successful campaign, they turned their steps +homewards, loaded with scalps and other spoils, and on reaching the top +of the ridge that overlooked their camp, they gave note of their +approach by the usual shouts of victory. But no shout answered, and on +descending to their huts, they found the whole of the inmates +slaughtered. The Assinabaians had been there to take their revenge. + +On beholding the dismal scene, the triumphant warriors cast away their +spoils, arms, and clothing, and then putting on robes of leather, and +smearing their heads with mud, they betook themselves to the hills for +three days and nights, to howl and moan, and cut their flesh. It is +observed, that this mode of expressing public grief, bears a striking +resemblance to the customs of the Jews. The track towards Fort Vancouver +exhibited a country, which may yet make a great figure in the American +world,--immense valleys sheltered by mountain ridges, and containing +beautiful lakes. In one instance, their tents were pitched in a valley +of about five hundred acres enclosed by mountains on three sides, and a +lake on the fourth. From the edge of the waters there arose a gentle +descent of six or eight hundred feet covered with vines, and composed of +the accumulated fragments of the heights above; and on the upper border +of this slope there stood perpendicular walls of granite of three or +four thousand feet high, while among those dizzy altitudes, the goats +and sheep bounded in playful security. This defile had been the scene of +an exploit. One of the Crees, whom they had met a few days before, had +been tracked into the valley along with his wife and family by five +warriors of a hostile tribe. On perceiving the odds against him, the man +gave himself up for lost, observing to the woman, that as they could die +but once, they had better die without resistance. The wife, however, +said, that "as they had but one life to lose, they had the more reason +to defend it," and, suiting the action to the word, the heroic wife +brought the foremost of the enemy down to the ground by a bullet, while +the husband disposed of two others by two arrows. The fourth warrior was +rushing on the woman with uplifted tomahawk, when he stumbled and fell. +She darted forward, and buried her knife in his heart. The sole +surviving assailant now turned and fled, discharging, however, a bullet +which wounded the man in the arm. + +They had now reached that rocky range from which the eastern and western +rivers of those mighty provinces take their common departure. Here they +estimated the height of the pass to be seven or eight thousand feet +above sea-level, while the peaks seemed to be nearly half that height +above their heads. + +Of course, the party often felt the torture of mosquitoes, but one +valley was so pre-eminently infested with those tormentors, that man and +beast alike preferred being nearly choked with smoke, in which they +plunged, for the sake of escaping their stings. But we advert to this +common plague of all forest travel, only for its legendary honours. + +"The Canadians vented their curses against the OLD MAID, who had the +credit of having brought the scourge upon earth, by praying for +something to fill up the leisure of her single blessedness." And if, as +the author observes, "the tormentors would confine themselves to +nunneries and monasteries, the world might see something more of the +fitness of things in the matter." + +At the close of August, the party reached Fort Vancouver, having crossed +the Continent, by a route of five thousand miles, in twelve weeks' +travelling. + +They now made a visit to the Russian-American Company's Establishment of +New Archangel. This exhibited considerable signs of commerce. In the +harbour were five sailing vessels from 250 to 350 tons; besides a large +bark in the offing in tow of a steamer, which brought advices from St +Petersburgh down to the end of April. An officer came off conveying +Governor Etholine's compliments and welcome. The party landed, and were +received in the residence situated on the top of a rock. The Governor's +dwelling consisted of a suite of apartments communicating, according to +the Russian fashion, with each other, all the public, rooms being +handsomely decorated and richly furnished. It commanded a view of the +whole establishment, which was, in fact, a little village. About half +way down the rock, two batteries frowned respectively over the land and +the water. Behind the Bay arise stupendous piles of conical mountains +with summits of everlasting snow. To seaward, Mount Edgecumbe, also in +the form of a cone, rears its trunk-headed peak, still remembered as +the source of smoke and flame, lava and ashes, but now the repository of +the snows of an age. Next day, the Governor, in full uniform, came in +his gig to return the visit to Sir George on board his steamer. The +party were invited on shore, where they were introduced to Madame +Etholine, a pretty and lady-like woman, a native of Finland. They then +visited the schools, in which there were twenty boys and as many girls; +the boys were intended chiefly for the naval service, nor did religion +seem to be neglected any more than education. The Greek Church had its +bishop, fifteen priests, deacons, and followers, and the Lutherans had +their clergyman. The ecclesiastics were all maintained by the Imperial +Government. Such is Sitka, the principal depot of the Russian-American +Company. It has various subordinate establishments. The operations of +the Company are becoming more extensive, and at this period the returns +of the trade amounted to about 25,000 skins of beavers, otters, foxes, +&c. + +Among the company at the Russian Governor's, was a half-breed native, +who had been the leader of an expedition equipped some years ago, for +the discovery of what would here be styled the North-East passage. The +Russians reached Point Barrow shortly after the expedition under Mr +Thomas Simpson had reached the same point from the opposite direction. +The climate seems to be sufficiently trying, and during the four days at +Sitka there was nearly one continued fall of rain. The weather was cold +and squally, snow had fallen, and the channels were traversed by +restless masses which had broken off from the glaciers. In short nothing +could exceed the dreariness of the coast. + +This shore, of which so much has been said and written during the late +Oregon negociations, is described as the very scene for the steam-boat. +Here are the Straits of Juan de Fuca; and here Admiral Fonte penetrated +up the more northerly inlets. They are the very region made for the +steam-boat, as in the case of a sailing vessel their dangers and delays +would have been tripled and quadrupled. But steam has also a power +almost superstitious on the minds of the natives; besides acting on +their fears, it has in a great measure subdued their love of robbery and +violence. It has given the savage a new sense of the superiority of his +white brother. + +A striking instance of this feeling is given. After the arrival of the +emigrants from Red River, their guide, an Indian, took a short trip in +the Beaver. When asked what he thought of her, "Don't ask me," was his +reply. "I cannot speak; my friends will think that I tell lies when I +let them know what I have seen. Indians are fools, and know nothing. I +can see that the iron machinery makes the ship go, but I cannot see what +makes the iron machinery itself go." This man, though intelligent, and +partly civilized, was nevertheless so full of doubt and wonder that he +would not leave the vessel till he had got a certificate to the effect +that he had been on board of a ship which needed neither sails nor +paddles,--any document in writing being regarded by the Indians as +unquestionable. Fort Vancouver--which will probably be the head of a +great colony, is about ninety miles from the sea, the Colombia in front +of it, being a mile in width--contains houses, stores, magazines, &c. +Outside the fort, the dwellings of the servants, &c. form a little +village. The people of the establishment vary in number, according to +the season of the year, from one hundred and thirty to more than two +hundred. Divine service is regularly performed every Sunday in English +to the Protestants. But at the time of this journal there was +unfortunately no English clergyman connected with the establishment. + +Sir George himself now visited California, the region which the Mexican +war is bringing into prominent notice. The harbour of San Francisco is +magnificent, the first view of the shore presented a level sward of +about a mile in depth, backed by a ridge of grassy slopes, the whole +pastured by numerous herds of cattle and horses, which, without a keeper +or a fold, fattened whether their owners waked or slept. + +The harbour displays a sheet of water of about thirty miles in length +by about twelve in breadth, sheltered from every wind by an amphitheatre +of green hills. But this sheet of water forms only a part in the inland +sea of San Francisco. Whaler's Harbour, at its own northern extremity, +communicates by a strait of about two miles in width with the bay of San +Pedro, which leads by means of a second strait into Fresh Water Bay, of +nearly the same form and magnitude, and which forms the receptacle, of +two great rivers, draining vast tracts of country to the south-east and +north-east, which are navigable for inland craft, so that the harbour, +besides its matchless qualities as a port of refuge on this surf-beaten +coast, is the outlet of an immense, fair, and fertile region. + +But the beauties of nature are useless when they fall into the hands of +idlers and fools. Every thing in those fine countries seems to be +boasting and beggary. Every thing has been long sinking into ruin, +through mere indolence. The Californians once manufactured the fleeces +of their sheep into cloth. They are now too lazy to weave or spin, too +lazy even to clip and wash the raw material, and now the sheep have been +literally destroyed to make more room for the horned cattle. + +They once made the dairy an object of attention, now neither butter nor +cheese is to be found in the province. They once produced in the +Missions eighty thousand bushels of wheat and maize,--they were lately +buying flour at Monterey at the rate of £6 a sack. Beef was once +plentiful,--they were now buying salted salmon for the sea-store for one +paltry vessel, which constituted the entire line-of-battle of the +Californian navy. + +The author justly observes, that this wicked abuse of the soil and +consequent poverty of the people results wholly from "the objects of the +colonisation." Thus the emigrants from England to the northern colonies +looked to subsistence from the fruits of labour; ploughed, harrowed, and +grew rich, and civilized. On the other hand the colonists of "New +France" a name which comprehended the valleys of the St Lawrence and +Mississippi, dwindled and pined away, partly because the golden dreams +of the free trade carried them away from stationary pursuits, and partly +because the government considered them rather as soldiers than settlers. +In like manner Spanish America, with its _Serras_ of silver, holding out +to every adventurer the hope of earning his bread without the sweat of +his brow, became the paradise of idlers. + +In California the herds of cattle, and the sale of their hides and +tallow, offer so easy a subsistence, that the population think of no +other, and in consequence are poor, degenerate, and dwindling. Their +whole education consists in bullock hunting. In this view, unjust and +violent as may be the aggressions of the American arms, it is difficult +to regret the transfer of the territory into any hands which will bring +these fine countries into the general use of mankind, root out a race +incapable of improvement, and fill the hills and valleys of this mighty +province with corn and man. + +At present the produce of a bullock in hide, tallow, and horns, is about +five dollars, (the beef goes for nothing) of which the farmer's revenue +is averaged at a dollar and a half. This often makes up a large income. +General Vallego, who had about eight thousand head of cattle, must +receive from this source about ten thousand dollars a-year. The former +Missions, or Monkish revenues, must have been very large; that of San +Jose possessing thirty thousand head of cattle, Santa Clara nearly half +the number, and San Gabriel more than both together. + +It must be acknowledged that the monks had made a handsome affair of +holiness in the good old times. Previously to the Mexican revolution +their "missions" amounted, in the upper province alone, to twenty-one, +every one of course with its endowment on a showy scale. Every monk had +an annual stipend of four hundred dollars. But this was mere +pocket-money; they had "donations and bequests" from the living and from +the dead, a most capacious source of opulence, and of an opulence +continually growing, constituting what was termed the pious fund of +California. Besides all these things, they had the cheap labour of +eighteen thousand converts. But the drones were to be suddenly smoked +out of their hives. Mexico declared itself a republic; and, as the +first act of a republic, in every part of the world, is to plunder every +body, the property of the monks went in the natural way. The lands and +beeves, the "donations and bequests were made a national property," in +1825. Still some show of moderation was exhibited, and the names and +some of the offices of the missions were preserved. But, in 1836, the +Californians took the whole affair into their own hands, threw off the +Central Government, and were "free, independent," and beggared. The +Missions were then "secularized" at their ease. The Mexican government +was furious for a while, and threatened the Californians with all the +thunders of its rage; but the vengeance ended in the simple condition, +that California should still acknowledge the Mexican supremacy, taking +her own way in all that had been done, was doing, and was to be done. + +The travellers had now an opportunity of seeing the interior of a +Californian mansion, the house of the chief proprietor in this quarter, +General Vallego. + +We must acknowledge that Sir George Simpson would have much improved his +volumes by striking out the whole of this description. It is evident +that he was received with civilities of every kind;--he was provided +with horses and attendants;--he was taken to see all the remarkable +features of the estate and the habits of its people; he was _fêted_, +introduced to wife and daughters, sons-in-law and daughters-in-law, sung +and danced for, and smiled on and talked with, as if he had been a +prince; and yet his whole account of this hospitality throws it into the +most repulsive light imaginable;--cold dinners, bad attendance, rude +furniture, and so forth, form the staple of his conceptions; and if his +book should ever reach General Vallego's hands, which it probably will, +through the zeal of American republication, we can easily imagine that +he will become cautious in his hospitality for the time to come. We, at +least, shall not extend the vexation of this Spanish gentleman by +quoting any part of this unfortunate _bevue_. We say this with regret. +But this style of repaying generous hospitality cannot be too distinctly +reproved, for the sake of all future travellers who may want, not merely +hospitality, but protection. + +The next subject of description is Monterey, which has lately assumed a +peculiar interest, as one of the objects of the American invasion. The +Bay of Monterey forms a segment of a circle with a chord of about +eighteen miles. Monterey had always been the seat of government, though +it consisted of but a few buildings. But, since the revolution of 1836, +it has expanded into a population of about seven hundred souls. The town +occupies a plain, bounded by a lofty ridge. The dwellings are the +reverse of pompous, being all built of mud bricks. The houses are +remarkable for a paucity of windows, glass being inordinately dear; even +parchment almost unattainable, and the artists in window-making charging +three dollars a-day! + +But, to the Californians, perhaps this privation of light is not an +evil. While it makes the rooms cooler, it cannot, by any possibility, +interfere with the occupations of those who do nothing. The bed affords +a curious contrast to the rest of the furniture. While the apartments +exhibit a deal-table, badly made chairs, probably a Dutch clock, and an +old looking-glass, the bed "challenges admiration by snowy white sheets, +fringed with lace, a pile of soft pillows, covered with the finest linen +or the richest satin, and a well-arranged drapery of costly and tasteful +curtains." Still this bed is "but a whited sepulchre," with a wool +mattress--"the impenetrable stronghold of millions of----." We leave the +rest to the imagination. + +The history of "Political Causes and Effects" would make a curious +volume; and it would admirably display, at once the profound agency of +Providence, and the shortsightedness of human policy. It would scarcely +be supposed that the devastation of Europe, and the sack of Berlin, +Vienna, and Moscow, found their origin in a Spanish treaty, on the banks +of the Mississippi, half a century before. + +The power of France in the interior of America, which had extended from +Canada to Louisiana, and which formed a line of posts for its boundary +along this immense internal _frontier_, kept the British Colonies in a +state of constant alarm; and, by consequence, in a state of continual +dependence on England. But the English possession of Canada, in 1763, +and the cession of Louisiana to Spain at the same period, as they +lessened the alarms, loosened the allegiance of the British colonies. +The next steps were more obvious. The war of the United States, in which +France was an auxiliary, inflamed the French population with the hope of +breaking down the strength of England and the aristocracy of France. But +the expense of equipping the French allied force fell heavy on an +exchequer already burthened by the showy extravagance of the Regent +Orleans, and by the gross profligacies of Louis XV. To relieve the +exchequer, the States General were summoned; and from that _moment_ +began the Revolution. The European war was the result of a republican +government, and the conquest of the Continent the result of placing +Napoleon on the throne of the empire. What further results may be still +preparing are beyond our knowledge; but it can scarcely be conceived +that the chain is yet finally broken. + +But before we take leave of California, we must do it the justice to +speak of San Barbara, which, as the author _rather_ emphatically +expresses it, is to Monterey "what the parlour is to the kitchen." + +The bay is an unfavourable one, being exposed to the "worst winds of the +worst season." But the town having been selected as the favourite +retreat of the more respectable functionaries of the province, Santa +Barbara exhibits the charms of aristocratic manners. The houses, +externally, are superior to any others on the coast, and, internally, +exhibit taste in their furniture and ornament. The ladies excite the +author's pen into absolute rapture; their sparkling eyes and glossy +hair, are, in themselves, sufficient to negative the idea of tameness or +insipidity, while their sylph-like figures exhibit fresh graces at every +step. This is supported by the more important qualities, of "being by +far the more industrious half of the community, and performing their +household duties with cheerfulness and pride." + +The men are a handsome race, and the greatest dandies imaginable, +completely modelled on the Andalusian Majo, and displaying the finest +linen, the most embroidered pantaloons, and the most glittering jackets +in the western world. Of course, it cannot be expected of any Spaniards +that they should do much, and beaux so fine cannot be expected to do any +thing. Accordingly, his day is spent in riding from house to house, on a +horse as fine as himself, a living machine of trappings, and the nights +in dancing, billiard-playing, and flirting. + +In all countries where serious things are habitually turned into +trifles, trifles become serious things. "The balls, in fact, seem more +like a matter of business than any thing else that is done in +California. For whole days beforehand, sweetmeats are laboriously +prepared in the greatest variety, and from beginning to end of the +festivities, which have been known to last several successive nights, so +as to make the performers, after wearing out their pumps, trip it in +sea-boots, both men and women displaying as much gravity as if attending +the funeral of their friends." + +A still more humanising portion of their tastes is their passion for +music. The guitar is heard in every house. Father, mother, and child are +all playing and singing; and, to the praise of their taste be it spoken, +playing nothing but the fandangoes, seguidillas, and ballads of Spain; +the truest, purest, and most touching of all music; well worth all the +_hammered_ harmonies of the German school, and all the long-winded and +laborious bravuras of the Italian. The Spanish music is the most +refined, and yet the most natural, in the world. + +We are glad to see this experienced judge of men and things speaking of +the Californians as "a happy people possessing the means of physical +pleasure to the full," even though he qualifies the opinion by their +"knowing no higher kind of enjoyment." + +It is true, that the Englishman, who knows what _intellectual_ enjoyment +is, will not abandon that highest, though most toilsome, of all +gratifications, for inferior indulgences; but it would be a fortunate +hour for the Englishman when he could get rid of some portion of the +toil that wears away his life, in exchange for the lighthearted +pleasures and simple occupations of foreign existence. Nor is there any +man who less prefers the dogged round of his cheerless exertions, or who +is more genuinely susceptible of essential enjoyment. We even think that +the cultivated Englishman has a finer relish for enjoyment than the man +of any other country. The caperings of the Frenchman, or the grimaces of +the Italian, have but little connexion with the mind. All foreigners +seem wretched when they have no physical excitement. There is not a more +miserable object on earth, than a Frenchman wandering through the +streets of London on a Sunday, when he can neither see the print shops +in the day, nor go to the play at night. The German is heart-broken for +the same reason, and shrouds himself and his sorrow in double clouds of +smoke. The Italian would worship Diana of Ephesus, or the Great African +Snake, if its pageantry, or puppet-show, would enable him to get through +the day of closed shops and _no_ opera! Yet, contemptible as this +restless hunting after nothings is, it would be fortunate for us if we +could qualify the severity and constancy of our national toil by some +mixture of the lighter pursuits of the Continent. + +The fertility of California is boundless; it produces every thing that +human appetite can desire. In the Mission-garden of San Gabriel were +produced grapes, oranges, lemons, olives, figs, bananas, plums, peaches, +apples, pears, pomegranates, raspberries, strawberries, &c. &c., while +in the adjoining Mission were found in addition, tobacco, the plantain, +the cocoa-nut, the indigo plant, and the sugar cane. + +But Nature is nothing, in this country, without a miracle; and the +history of every village probably furnishes its legend. The Missions, +however, may be presumed to be the peculiar favourites of Heaven. + +"When Padre Pedro Cambon, and Padre Somera, were selecting a site for +the Mission, escorted by ten soldiers, a multitude of Indians, armed, +presented themselves, and setting up horrid yells, seemed determined to +oppose its establishment. The fathers, fearing that war would ensue, +took out a piece of cloth with the image of our Lady upon it, and held +it up in view of the barbarians. This was no sooner done, than the whole +were quiet, being subdued by the sight of this most precious image; and +throwing on the ground their bows and arrows, their two captains came +running to lay the beads, which they had round their necks, at the feet +of the Sovereign Queen, in proof of their tender regard." We recommend +the trial of this holy Cloth on General Taylor. + +But there is no limit to the richness of this region. The valley of the +Zulares, in the neighbourhood, would support millions of people. Its +lakes and rivers all abound in fish, its forests have all kinds of +trees, some of them growing to a size which, but for the force of +testimony, would be incredible. One of these is stated by Humboldt as of +one hundred and eighteen feet in girth. "But this is a walking-stick +compared with another at Bodega, as described to Sir George by Governor +Etholine, of Sitka." It is thirty-six Russian fathoms (seven feet each) +in span, and seventy-five in height; so that, if tapered into a perfect +cone, it would contain nearly twenty-two thousand tons of bark and +timber. In addition, the valley contains immense herds of wild horses, +in troops of several thousands each. What a country will this be, when +it shall fall into the hands of an intelligent people! + +The last of the five posts, San Diego, is, next to San Francisco, the +best harbour in the province. Thus, Upper California contains, at its +opposite extremities, two of the best harbours on the Pacific Ocean; +each of them being enhanced in value by the distance of any others +worthy of the name, San Francisco being nearly one thousand miles from +Port Discovery in the north, and San Diego six hundred miles from the +Bay of Magdalena in the south. + +That in the hands of any vigorous possessors this country would form a +most powerful kingdom, is beyond all question; and Sir George Simpson +evidently thinks that it might easily be acquired, and with a +legitimate claim too, by England. But the still higher question is the +policy of a perpetual increase of territory. England already has in +America a larger extent of territory than she can people for five +hundred years to come. But the possession of California, and perhaps of +the whole extent of the Mexican provinces, is on the eve of decision; +the American invasion has found no resistance that can deserve the name. +The Mexicans fly in every quarter, and a few discharges of cannon put +them to flight by thousands. At this moment the whole Mexican Republic, +equal in size to half a dozen European States, appears to be crumbling +into fragments. The rambling expeditions of the Americans are ravaging +it in all directions with impunity, and armies which might have been +long since annihilated by a mere guerilla war, have been suffered to +march from city to city, with scarcely more resistance than a +cattle-stealing skirmish. By the last intelligence, San Juan d' Ulloa +has fallen, and Vera Cruz has capitulated after a siege of only three +days and a half. The castle is the strongest fortification in the +Western World--and, as Napoleon said of Malta, "It is lucky that it had +somebody inside to open the gates for us:" the garrison of this fortress +seems to have been placed there merely for the purpose of surrendering +it. But, whatever may be the fate of men who had such a fortress to +defend, and yet whose defence actually cost the assailants but +_seventeen_ killed! there can be but one feeling of commiseration for +the unhappy inhabitants of Vera Cruz, on whom was rained, day and night, +a shower of shot and shell amounting to more than seven thousand of +those tremendous missiles. It is computed that the slaughter, and that +slaughter chiefly of women and children, amounts to thousands. These are +terrible things, even where they may be supposed the _necessities_ of +war. But here we can discover no necessity--Vera Cruz was _no_ +fortification, it was nearly an open town. We recollect no similar +instance of a bombardment. In Europe, it has long been a rule of +military morals, that no open city shall ever be bombarded. We believe +it to be the boast of the first living soldier in the world--and we +could have no more honourable one--that he never suffered a city to be +bombarded; from the obvious fact, that the chief victims were the +helpless inhabitants, while the soldiery are sheltered by the casemates +and bomb-proofs. + +At all events, we must regard the contest as decided. The Government has +exhibited nothing more than a sullen resolution; and the people little +more than the apathy of their own cattle; the troops have exhibited no +evidence of discipline, and the only resource of the Finance has been in +the wild projects of an empty Exchequer. Whether the United States will +be the more prosperous for this conquest, is a question of time alone. +Whether the facility of the conquest may not make the multitude frantic +for general aggression,--whether the military men of the States may not +obtain a popularity and assume a power which has been hitherto confined +to civil life,--whether the attractions of military career may not turn +the rising generation from the pursuits of trade and tillage, to the +idle, or the ferocious life of the American campaigner,--and whether the +pressure of public debt, the necessity for maintaining their half-savage +conquests by an army, and the passion for territorial aggrandisement, +may not urge them to a colonial war with England,--are only parts of the +great problem which the next five-and-twenty years will compel the +American Republic to solve. + +At the same time, we cannot avoid looking upon the invasion of Mexico as +a portion of that extraordinary and mysterious agency which is now +shaking all the great stagnant districts of the world; which has already +awaked Turkey in Europe and in Asia Minor; which has brought Egypt into +civilised action; which has broken down the barbarism of the Algerines, +and planted the French standard in place of the furies and profligacies +of African Mahometanism. Deeply deprecating the guilt of those +aggressions, and condemning the crimes by which they have been +sustained, we cannot but regard changes so unexpected, so powerful, and +so simultaneous, as the operation of a higher power than man's, with +objects altogether superior to the shortsightedness of man, and amply +bearing the character of working good out of evil, which belongs to the +history of Divine Providence in all the ages of the world. + +There is one peculiarity in these volumes which we cannot sufficiently +applaud, and that is, the thoroughly English spirit in which they are +written. Without weak partiality, for the reasons are every where +assigned; without narrow prejudice, for the facts are in all instances +stated; and without derogating from the merits of other nations, the +work is calculated to give a just conception of the value of England to +the world. + +On his return from the Sandwich Isles--an interesting portion of his +travels, to which we have not now time to advert in detail--and +preparing to start from the Russian post of New Archangel by a five +months' journey through the Russian empire, he gives a glance at what he +has done. + +"I have," says he, "threaded my way round nearly half the globe, +traversing about 220 degrees of longitude, and upwards of 100 of +latitude, barely one fourth of this by the ocean. Notwithstanding all +this, I have uniformly felt more at home, with the exception of my first +sojourn at Sitka, than I should have felt in Calais. I have every where +seen our race, under a great variety of circumstances, either actually +or virtually invested with the attributes of sovereignty." + +After a few words on the vigour of the English blood, as exhibited in +the commerce, intelligence, and activity of the United States, he +returns to the immediate possessions and prowess of England. "I have +seen the English posts which stud the wilderness from the Canadian lakes +to the Pacific Ocean. I have seen English adventurers with that innate +power which makes every individual, whether Briton or American, a real +representative of his country, monopolising the trade, and influencing +the destinies of California. And lastly, I have seen the English +merchants of a barbarian Archipelago, which promises, under their +guidance, to become the centre of the traffic of the east and the west, +of the new world and the old. In saying all this, I have seen less than +half the grandeur of the English race. How insignificant in comparison +are all the other nations of the earth, one nation alone excepted. +Russia and Great Britain literally gird the globe where either continent +has the greatest breadth, a fact which, taken in connexion with their +early annals, can scarcely fail to be regarded as the work of a special +Providence. After the fall of the Roman empire, a scanty and obscure +people suddenly burst on the west and east, as the dominant race of the +times; one swarm of the Normans making its way to England, while another +was establishing its supremacy over the Sclavonians of the Borysthenes, +the two being to meet in opposite directions at the end of a thousand +years." + +He regards the gigantic power of Russia as in an unconscious +co-partnership with England in the grand cause of commerce and +civilisation. He also makes the curious and true remark that, +notwithstanding the astonishing successes of the Normans in Europe, they +were never numerous enough to establish their language in any of the +conquered countries. Their unparalleled successes, therefore, seem to +express the idea that those feeble bands of warriors were strengthened +every where to accomplish the purposes of Providence. + +We now come to the overland journey to Siberia. On the 23d of July, they +reached the port of Ochotsk, where, however, they were met by masses of +floating ice. Here Sir George had the first intelligence from England, +which brought to his English heart the glad tidings of the birth of a +Prince of Wales. They found this settlement a collection of huts on a +shingly beach. The population is about 800 souls. A more dreary scene +can scarcely be conceived than the surrounding country. Not a tree, and +even scarcely a green blade is to be seen within miles of the town. The +climate is on a par with the soil. The summer consists of three months +of damp and chilly weather, during great part of which the snow still +covers the hills, and the ice chokes the harbour, and this is succeeded +by nine months of dreary winter. But when men find fault with such a +climate as this, the fact is, that the fault is their own. Those +climates were never intended for the residence of man; they were +intended for the white bear, the seal, the whale, and the fur-bearing +animals. To those inhabitants, they are perfectly adapted. If the rage +of conquest, or the eagerness for gain, fixes human beings in the very +empire of winter, they are intruders, and must suffer for their +unsuitable choice of a locale. + +The principal food of the inhabitants is fish. On fish they feed +themselves; their dogs--which are equivalent to their carriage +horses--their cattle, and their poultry, are also chiefly fed on fish. +All other provisions are ruinously dear. Flour costs twenty-eight rubles +the pood,--(a ruble is worth about a franc, the pood is thirty-six +English pounds.) Beef is so dear as to be regarded as a treat, and wines +and groceries have to pay a land carriage of seven thousand miles. + +Here, too, the people drink tea in the style in which it was introduced +in more primitive days into Europe. It is of the kind known as brick +tea, being made up in cakes, and is consumed in great quantities by the +lower orders in Siberia, being made into a thick soup, with the addition +of butter and salt. + +On the 27th of the month, they began their journey across Siberia. After +leaving the shore, and boating the river Ochota, to an encampment where +they were to meet their horses, hired at the rate of forty-five rubles a +horse, on an agreement to be conveyed to Yakutsh in eighteen days, they +struck into the country, which exhibited forests of pine, their progress +being about four or five miles an hour. The Yakuti appear to be very +industrious; young and old, male and female, being always occupied in +some useful employment. When not engaged in travelling or farming, men +and boys make saddles, harness, &c.; while the women and girls keep +house, dress skins, prepare clothing, and attend to the dairy. They are +also remarkably kind to strangers, for milk and cream, the best things +they had to give, were freely offered in every village. This was the +10th of July, yet the snow was still partially lying on the ground. From +day to day they met caravans of horses; and one day they were startled +by the shouts of a party at the head of them. Their next sight was a +herd of cattle running wildly in all directions, and the cause was seen +in a huge she-bear and her cub moving off at a round trot. On this +route, the bears are both fierce and numerous. The country had now +become more fertile; there was no want of flowering plants, and the +forests were enlivened by the warbling of birds, which, contrasted as it +was with the deathlike silence of the American woods, was peculiarly +grateful to the ear. In the course of the day, the vexatious incident +occurred of meeting the courier, with the letters from England, which +had been looked for so anxiously on the arrival of the travellers in +Siberia; but the bags of course could not be opened on the road. + +The presence of the Cossack, who attended the party, was of great +importance in quickening the movements of the natives; but they seemed +kind and good-natured, full of civility to the strangers, and not +without some degree of education. The Yakuti have a singular mode of +estimating distances. In Germany, a common measure of distance is the +time that it takes to smoke a pipe. In this part of Siberia, they take +as their unit the time necessary for boiling a kettle of a particular +sort of food. They tell you, that such and such a place is so many +kettles off, or half a kettle, or, as the case may be, only part of a +kettle. + +At last they arrive at the Lena. This is described as one of the +grandest rivers in the world. At a distance of thirteen hundred versts +from the sea, (three versts are equal to two miles,) it is from five to +six miles wide. Its entire length is not less than four thousand versts. +The word Lena implies lazy--a name justified by the circuitous flowing +of its stream. At Yakutsk, the seat of the Governor, they were received +with great civility in this capital of the province, latitude sixty-two +north, and longitude one hundred and thirty east. The extreme +temperature of summer and winter is almost beyond belief, the +thermometer having, risen in the shade to 106° of Fahrenheit, and in +winter having fallen to 83° below zero--making a difference of 189°. In +this district are the enormous deposits of mammoth bones. Spring after +spring, the alluvial banks of the lakes and rivers crumbling under the +thaw have given up their dead; and the islands opposite to the mouth of +the Yana, and, as there was reason for believing, even the bed of the +ocean itself, teems with those mysterious memorials of antiquity. The +question is, how do those bones come there? Sir George, after giving the +opinions of some of the professors of geology, conceives the most +natural account of the phenomenon to be, that those animals or their +bones were swept from the great Tartarian pasturages of Cobi, by the +waters of the Deluge, towards the ocean. We must acknowledge that this +has long been our own opinion. It must be remembered that the Scriptural +account states the rising of the Deluge to have been gradual. The rain +fell forty days and nights. All living things would of course make their +way to the heights to escape the rising inundation of the valleys. The +cattle thus grouped together in immense herds, (the buffalos in the +prairies at the present day sometimes exceed five thousand in one +pasturage,) thus gathered into one mass, would be finally submerged, and +swept away in whatever irresistible current rushed over the spot on +which they stood. The frost of the region, which penetrates the earth to +the depth apparently of some hundred feet, would thenceforth preserve +them from decay. The tusks form an article of considerable trade, the +ivory selling from a shilling to one and ninepence a pound, according to +the perfection of the tusks. + +One of the travellers' especial wishes was, to have visited the town of +Kiachta, the place of commerce between the Russians and the Chinese. But +a note from the Governor mentioned that the Chinese had suddenly stopped +all communication. But a few words may be given to a commerce so +peculiar. By the treaty of Nertshinsk, a reciprocal liberty of traffic +was stipulated; and accordingly caravans on the part of the Russian +government, and individual traders, used to visit Pekin. But the +Muscovites exhibited so much of the native habits in "drinking and +roystering," that, after exhausting the patience of the Celestials +during three-and-thirty years, they were wholly excluded. But a +cessation of five years having taken place, the Russians in 1728 +obtained a treaty, by which individuals were permitted to trade on the +frontier; and Kiachta was built. But public caravans were permitted to +go on to Pekin. At length, in 1762, Catherine fixed the grand emporium +at Kiachta. + +This town, standing on a beach of the same name, is within about half a +furlong of the Chinese village of Maimatschin, (about the fiftieth +parallel of latitude,) being one thousand miles from Pekin, and four +thousand from Moscow. Such are the enormous distances through which the +eagerness for money-making drives the children of men. + +The materials of the Russian traffic are furs, woollens, cottons, linen, +&c., with articles in tin, copper, iron, &c.--the whole amounting to +about nineteen millions of rubles. The Chinese products are tea, silks, +sugar-candy, &c.--nominally to the amount of seven millions of rubles, +but probably rising to thrice the value. The chief time of the market is +the winter. To the chief Russian merchants this is a species of +monopoly, and a most thriving one, some of them being _millionnaires_, +and living in the most sumptuous manner, the "merchant princes" of the +wilderness! + +We had some curiosity to know the condition of the exiles to Siberia +from this intelligent eye-witness. But he gives little more than a +glance to a subject on which the public mind of England is at present so +much engaged. In Russia corporal punishment is much in use; but +criminals are seldom put to death. They are marched off to Siberia for +every kind of offence, from the highest political crime to petty +larceny. The most heinous offenders are sent to the mines; those guilty +of minor delinquencies are settled in villages, or on farms; and +those guilty of having opinions different from those of the +government--statesmen, authors, and soldiers--are generally suffered to +establish themselves in little knots, where they spread refinement +through the country. The consequence is, that "all grades of society are +decidedly more intelligent than the corresponding grades in any other +part of the empire, and perhaps more so than in most parts of Europe." + +Many of the exiles are now men of large income.--"The dwelling in which +we breakfasted to-day," says the traveller, "was that of a person who +had been sent to Siberia _against his will_. Finding that there was but +one way of bettering his condition, he worked hard, and behaved well. He +had now a comfortably furnished house and a well-cultivated farm, while +a stout wife, and plenty of servants, bustled about the premises. His +son had just arrived from St Petersburg, to visit his exiled father, and +had the pleasure of seeing him amid all the comforts of life, reaping an +abundant harvest, and with _one hundred and forty persons_ in his pay!" + +He adds, "In fact, for the _reforming_ of the criminal, in addition to +the punishment of the crime, Siberia is undoubtedly the best +_penitentiary_ in the world. When not bad enough for the mines, each +exile is provided with an allotment of ground, a house, a horse, two +cows, agricultural implements, and, for the first year, with provisions. +For three years he pays no taxes whatever, and for the next ten, only +half the full amount. To bring fear as well as hope to operate in his +favour, he clearly understands, that his very first slip will send him +from his home and family, to toil in the mines. Thus does the government +bestow an almost paternal care on the less atrocious criminals." + +Yet with this knowledge before the British Government,--for we must +presume that they had not overlooked the condition of the Russian +exiles; and with the still more impressive knowledge of the growth of +our Australian colonies, and the improvement of the convicts; the +new-fangled and most costly plan is now to be adopted of reforming our +criminals by keeping them at home! Thus we are to save the national +expenditure by building huge penitentiaries, which will cost millions of +money, and to secure society from depredation, by annually pouring out +from those prisons, as the time of their sentences expires, the whole +crowd of villany to live on villany once more;--making the very streets +a place of danger, and filling the country with hungry crime. + +The only argument on the opposite side is, that the free settlers are +offended by finding themselves in a population of convicts. But to this +the obvious answer is, that the colonisation of Australia was originally +intended as a school of reform--that the convicts have been to a great +extent reformed, which they never would have been at home--that the +convicts were in the colony first, and that the settlers going there, +with their eyes open, have no reason to complain. + +We then have a Notice on another subject, which is at present engrossing +the speculations of all Europe, namely, the gold-country on the +Yenissei. Krasnoyayk, the capital, stands in a plain in the centre of +the district, where the mania of gold-washing broke out about fifteen +years ago. Some individuals have been singularly lucky in their search. +One person, after having laboured in vain for three years, and expending +a million and a half of rubles, suddenly, in this very year, had hit +upon a depot which gave him a hundred and fifty poods of gold--worth +thirty-five thousand rubles each, or five millions and a half of rubles. +Gold here measures every thing: a lady's charms are by weight, "a pood +is a good girl, and two or three poods are twice or thrice as good as a +wife." _This_ province alone has, in this year, yielded five hundred +poods of gold. + +Ekaterineburg is the centre of the mining district of the Uralian +mountains. The population amounts to about fourteen thousand, who are +all connected with the mines. The town has an iron foundery, a mint for +copper and silver coin, and various establishments for cutting marble, +porphyry, and polishing precious stones. The neighbouring mountains +appear to be nature's richest repository of minerals, yielding, in great +abundance, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, &c.; gold, silver, iron, and +platina. These inexhaustible treasures chiefly belong to Count Demidoff +and M. Yakovleff. The Count is said to receive half a million sterling +a-year from this princely property. + +Hurrying now towards England, with the anxiety which every one feels to +reach home as the end of a long journey seems to be nigh, the traveller +passed through Kazan, second in national honour to Moscow, but found it +in ashes from a late fire. He then hurried on to Nishney-Novgorod, the +place of the greatest fair in the world, where the traffic brings +traders from the ends of the earth, and where the trade amounts to +nineteen millions sterling a-year. He then traversed the property of +General Sheremetieff, an estate of _two days' journey_, with a hundred +thousand serfs--a comfortable race when under a good master, each head +of a family having a farm, and paying its rent, part in produce and part +in work. The people appear to be a gay race--singing every where; +singing on the roads, singing at work, and singing at cutting up their +cabbages for the national luxury of _saurkraut_. + +At length was seen looming in the west, with all its steeples and domes, +the queen of the wilderness, Moscow the Magnificent--the most +frequently-burned of all cities, and, as Sir George observes, the most +_retaliatory_ on the burners--it having been burned to embers _four_ +times, and each time having seen the incendiary nation ruined. It must +be admitted, however, that the revenge, however sure, was slow, for it +seldom occurred in less than a couple of centuries!--Napoleon's fate +being the only instance of promptitude on this point. + +From Moscow to St Petersburg, a macadamised road of seven hundred versts +conveyed the traveller to the northern city of the Czar, where, on the +8th of October, he terminated a journey from Ochotsk, of about seven +thousand miles. In eight days from St Petersburg he reached Hamburg, and +in five days more arrived in London, having rounded the globe in a +period of nineteen months and twenty-six days! + +We have given an abstract of this work with the more satisfaction, that +it not merely supplies a certain knowledge of vast regions of which the +European world knows little; but that it gives a favourable view of the +condition, the habits, and the temper, of the multitudes of our fellow +men, spread over those immense spaces of the globe. Personally, of +course, a man of the official rank and individual intelligence of the +writer, might expect the hospitality of the Russian employés. But he +seems to have been met with general kindness--to have experienced no +injury, no obstacle, and no extortion; and, on the whole, having +exhibited the good sense which disregards the _inevitable_ annoyances of +all journeys in distant countries, to have escaped all the severer ones +which an ill-tempered traveller naturally brings upon himself. But the +feature of his volumes on which we place the still higher value, is the +honesty of his English spirit. He knows the value of his country; he +does justice to her principles; he gives the true view of her power; he +vindicates her intentions; and without depreciating the merits of +foreign nations, he pays a manly tribute to the truth, by doing deserved +honour to his own. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] _Narrative of an Overland Journey Round the World._ By Sir George +Simpson, Governor-in-Chief of the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories in +North America. + + + + +LETTERS ON THE TRUTHS CONTAINED IN POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS. + + +VI.--RELIGIOUS DELUSIONS: THE POSSESSED: WITCHCRAFT. + +Dear Archy,--The subjects about which I propose writing to you to-day +are, delusions of a religious nature;--the idea of being possessed,--the +grounds of the belief in witchcraft. With so much before me, I have no +room to waste. So, of the first, first. + +The powerful hold which the feeling of religion takes on our nature, at +once attests the truth of the sentiment, and warns us to be on our guard +against fanatical excesses. No subject can safely be permitted to have +exclusive possession of our thoughts, least of all the most absorbing +and exciting of any. + + "So--it will make us mad." + +It is evident that, with the majority, Providence has designed that +worldly cares should largely and wholesomely employ the mind, and +prevent inordinate craving after an indulgence in spiritual stimulation; +while minds of the highest order are diverted, by the active duties of +philanthropy, from any perilous excess of religious contemplation. + +Under the influence of constant and concentrated religious thought, not +only is the reason liable to give way--which is not our theme--but, +alternatively, the nervous system is apt to fall into many a form of +trance, the phenomena of which are mistaken by the ignorant for Divine +visitation. The weakest frame sinks into an insensibility profound as +death, in which he has visions of heaven and the angels. Another lies, +in half-waking trance, rapt in celestial contemplation and beatitude; +others are suddenly fixed in cataleptic rigidity; others, again, are +dashed upon the ground in convulsions. The impressive effect of these +seizures is heightened by their supervention in the midst of religious +exercises, and by the contagious and sympathetic influence through which +their spread is accelerated among the more excitable temperaments and +weaker members of large congregations. What chance have ignorant people +witnessing such attacks, or being themselves the subjects of them, of +escaping the persuasion that they mark the immediate agency of the Holy +Spirit? Or, to take ordinarily informed and sober-minded people,--what +would they think at seeing mixed up with this hysteric disturbance, +distinct proofs of extraordinary perceptive and anticipatory powers, +such as occasionally manifest themselves as parts of trance, to the +rational explanation of which they might not have the key? + +In the preceding letter, I have already exemplified, by the case of +Henry Engelbrecht, the occurrence of visions of hell and heaven during +the deepest state of trance. No doubt the poor ascetic implicitly +believed his whole life the reality of the scenes to which his +imagination had transported him. + +In a letter from the Earl of Shrewsbury to Ambrose Mark Phillips, Esq., +published in 1841, a very interesting account is given of two young +women who had lain for months or years in a state of religious +beatitude. Their condition, when they were exhibited, appears to have +been that of half-waking in trance; or, perhaps, a shade nearer the +lightest form of trance-sleep. To increase the force of the scene, they +appear to have exhibited some degree of trance-perceptive power. But, +without this, the mere aspect of such persons is wonderfully imposing. +If the pure spirit of Christianity finds a bright comment and +illustration in the Madonnas and Cherubim of Raffaelle, it seems to +shine out in still more truthful vividness from the brow of a young +person rapt in religious ecstasy. The hands clasped in prayer,--the +upturned eyes,--the expression of humble confidence and seraphic hope, +(displayed, let me suggest, on a beautiful face,) constitute a picture +of which, having witnessed it, I can never forget the force. Yet I knew +it was only a trance. So one knows that village churches are built by +common mechanics. Yet when we look over an extensive country, and see +the spire from its clump of trees rising over each hamlet, or over the +distant city its minster tower,--the images find an approving harmony in +our feelings, and seem to aid in establishing the genuineness and the +truth of the sentiment and the faith which have reared such expressive +symbols. + +In the two cases mentioned in Lord Shrewsbury's pamphlet, it is, +however, painful to observe that trick and artifice had been used to +bend them to the service of Catholicism. The poor women bore on their +hands and feet wounds, the supposed _spontaneous_ eruption of +delineations of the bleeding wounds of the crucifix, and, on the +forehead, the bloody marks of the crown of thorns. To convict the +imposture, the blood-stains from the wounds in the feet ran _upwards_ +towards the toes, to complete a _facsimile_ of the original, though the +poor girls were lying on their backs. The wounds, it is to be hoped, are +inflicted and kept fresh and active by means employed when the victims +are in the insensibility to pain, which commonly goes with trance. + +To comprehend the effects of religious excitement operating on masses, +we may inspect three pictures,--the revivals of modern times--the +fanatical delusions of the Cevennes--the behaviour of the +Convulsionnaires at the grave of the Abbé Paris. + +"I have seen," says M. Le Roi Sunderland, himself a preacher, [_Zion's +Watchman_, New York, Oct. 2, 1842,] "persons often 'lose their +strength,' as it is called, at camp-meetings, and other places of great +religious excitement; and not pious people alone, but those also who +were not professors of religion. In the spring of 1824, while performing +pastoral labour in Dennis, Massachusetts, I saw more than twenty people +affected in this way. Two young men, of the name of Crowell, came one +day to a prayer meeting. They were quite indifferent. I conversed with +them freely, but they showed no signs of penitence. From the meeting +they went to their shop, (they were shoemakers,) to finish some work +before going to the meeting in the evening. On seating themselves they +were both struck perfectly stiff. I was immediately sent for, and found +them sitting paralysed [he means cataleptic] on their benches, with +their work in their hands, unable to get up, or to move at all. I have +seen scores of persons affected the same way. I have seen persons lie in +this state forty-eight hours. At such times they are unable to converse, +and are sometimes unconscious of what is passing round them. At the same +time they say they are in a happy state of mind." + +These persons, it is evident, were thrown in to one of the forms of +trance through their minds being powerfully worked upon; with which +cause the influence of mutual sympathy with what they saw around them, +and perhaps some physical agency, co-operated. + +The following extract from the same journal portrays another kind of +nervous seizure, allied to the former, and produced by the same cause, +as it was manifested at the great revival, some forty years ago, at +Kentucky and Tennessee. + +"The convulsions were commonly called 'the jerks.' A writer, (M'Neman,) +quoted by Mr Power, (Essay on the Influence of the Imagination over the +Nervous System,) gives this account of their course and progress:-- + +"'At first appearance these meetings, exhibited nothing to the spectator +but a scene of confusion, that could scarcely be put into language. They +were generally opened with a sermon, near the close of which there would +be an unusual outcry, some bursting out into loud ejaculations of +prayer, &c. + +"'The rolling exercise consisted in being cast down in a violent manner, +doubled with the head and feet together, or stretched in a prostrate, +manner, turning swiftly over like a dog. Nothing in nature could better +represent the jerks, than for one to goad another alternately on every +side with a piece of red-hot iron. The exercise commonly began in the +head, which would fly backwards and forwards, and from side to side, +with a quick jolt, which the person would naturally labour to suppress, +but in vain. He must necessarily go on as he was stimulated, whether +with a violent dash on the ground, and bounce from place to place, like +a foot-ball; or hopping round with head, limbs, and trunk, twitching +and jolting in every direction, as if they must inevitably fly asunder,' +&c." + +The following sketch is from _Dow's Journal_. "In the year 1805 he +preached at Knoxville, Tennessee, before the governor, when some hundred +and fifty persons, among whom were a number of Quakers, had the jerks." + +"I have seen all denominations of religions exercised by the jerks, +gentleman and lady, black and white, young and old, without exception. I +passed a meeting-house, where I observed the undergrowth had been cut +away for camp meetings, and from fifty to a hundred saplings were left, +breast high, on purpose for the people who were jerked to hold by. I +observed where they had held on, they had kicked up the earth, as a +horse stamping flies." + +Every one has heard of the extraordinary scenes which took place in the +Cevennes at the close of the seventeenth century. + +It was towards the end of the year 1688 a report was first heard, of a +gift of prophecy which had shown itself among the persecuted followers +of the Reformation, who, in the south of France, had betaken themselves +to the mountains. The first instance was said to have occurred in the +family of a glass-dealer, of the name of Du Serre, well known as the +most zealous Calvinist of the neighbourhood, which was a solitary spot +in Dauphiné, near Mount Peyra. In the enlarging circle of enthusiasts, +Gabriel Astier and Isabella Vincent made themselves first conspicuous. +Isabella, a girl of sixteen years of age, from Dauphiné, who was in the +service of a peasant, and tended sheep, began in her sleep to preach and +prophesy, and the Reformers came from far and near to hear her. An +advocate, of the name of Gerlan, describes the following scene which he +had witnessed. At his request she had admitted him, and a good many +others, after nightfall, to a meeting at a chateau in the neighbourhood. +She there disposed herself upon a bed, shut her eyes, and went to sleep; +in her sleep she chanted in a low tone the Commandments and a psalm; +after a short respite she began to preach in a louder voice, not in her +own dialect, but in good French, which hitherto she had not used. The +theme was an exhortation to obey God rather than man. Sometimes she +spoke so quickly as to be hardly intelligible. At certain of her pauses, +she stopped to collect herself. She accompanied her words with +gesticulations. Gerlan found her pulse quiet, her arm not rigid, but +relaxed, as natural. After an interval, her countenance put on a mocking +expression, and she began anew her exhortation, which was now mixed with +ironical reflections upon the Church of Rome. She then suddenly stopped, +continuing asleep. It was in vain they stirred her. When her arms were +lifted and let go, they dropped unconsciously. As several now went away, +whom her silence rendered impatient, she said in a low tone, but just as +if she was awake, "Why do you go away? Why do not you wait till I am +ready?" And then she delivered another ironical discourse against the +Catholic Church, which she closed with a prayer. + +When Boucha, the intendant of the district, heard of the performances of +Isabella Vincent, he had her brought before him. She replied to his +interrogatories, that people had often told her that she preached in her +sleep, but that she did not herself believe a word of it. As the +slightness of her person made her appear younger than she really was, +the intendant merely sent her to an hospital at Grenoble, where, +notwithstanding that she was visited by persons of the Reformed +persuasion, there was an end of her preaching,--she became a Catholic! + +Gabriel Astier, who had been a young labourer, likewise from Dauphiné, +went in the capacity of a preacher and prophet into the valley of +Bressac, in the Vivarais. He had infected his family: his father, +mother, elder brother, and sweetheart, followed his example, and took to +prophesying. Gabriel, before he preached, used to fall into a kind of +stupor in which he lay rigid. After delivering his sermon, he would +dismiss his auditors with a kiss, and the words: "My brother, or my +sister, I impart to you the Holy Ghost." Many believed that they had +thus received the Holy Ghost from Astier, being taken with the same +seizure. During the period of the discourse, first one, then another, +would fall down; some described themselves afterwards as having felt +first a weakness and trembling through the whole frame, and an impulse +to yawn and stretch their arms, then they fell convulsed and foaming at +the mouth. Others carried the contagion home with them, and first +experienced its effects, days, weeks, months afterwards. They +believed--nor is it wonderful they did so--that they had received the +Holy Ghost. + +Not less curious were the seizures of the Convulsionnaires at the grave +of the Abbé Paris, in the year 1727. These Jansenist visionaries used to +collect in the church-yard of St Médard, round the grave of the deposed +and deceased Deacon, and before long the reputation of the place for +working miracles getting about, they fell in troops into convulsions. + +Their state had more analogy to that of the Jerkers already described. +But it was different. They required, to gratify an internal impulse or +feeling, that the most violent blows should be inflicted upon them at +the pit of the stomach. Carré de Montgeron mentions, that being himself +an enthusiast in the matter, he had inflicted the blows required with an +iron instrument, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds, with a round +head. And as a convulsionary lady complained that he struck too lightly +to relieve the feeling of depression at her stomach, he gave her sixty +blows with all his force. It would not do, and she begged to have the +instrument used by a tall, strong man, who stood by in the crowd. The +spasmodic tension of her muscles must have been enormous; for she +received one hundred blows, delivered with such force that the wall +shook behind her. She thanked the man for his benevolent aid, and +contemptuously censured De Montgeron for his weakness, or want of faith +and timidity. It was, indeed, time for issuing the mandate, which, as +wit read it, ran: + + "De par le roi--Defense à Dieu, + De faire miracle en ce lieu." + +Turn we now to another subject:--the possessed in the middle ages,--What +was their physiological condition? What was really meant then by being +possessed? I mean, what were the symptoms of the affection, and how are +they properly to be explained? The inquiry will throw further light upon +the true relations of other phenomena we have already looked at. + +We have seen that Schwedenborg thought that he was in constant +communication with the spiritual world; but felt convinced, and avowed, +that though he saw his visitants without and around him, they reached +him first inwardly, and communicated with his understanding; and thence +consciously, and outwardly, with his senses. But it would be a +misapplication of the term to say that he was possessed by these +spirits. + +We remember that Socrates had his demon; and it should be mentioned as a +prominent feature in visions generally, that their subject soon +identifies one particular imaginary being as his guide and informant, to +whom he applies for what knowledge he wishes. In the most exalted states +of trance-waking, the guide or demon is continually referred to with +profound respect by the entranced person. Now, was Socrates, and are +patients of the class I have alluded to, possessed? No! the meaning of +the term is evidently not yet hit. + +Then there are persons who permanently fancy themselves other beings +than they are, and act as such. + +In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, there prevailed in parts of +Europe a seizure, which was called the wolf-sickness. Those affected +with it held themselves to be wild beasts, and betook themselves to the +forests. One of these, who was brought before De Lancre, at Bordeaux, in +the beginning of the sixteenth century, was a young man of Besançon. He +avowed himself to be huntsman of the forest lord, his invisible master. +He believed, that through the power of his master, he had been +transformed into a wolf; that he hunted in the forest as such, and that +he was often accompanied by a bigger wolf, whom he suspected to be the +master he served--with more details of the same kind. The persons thus +affected were called Wehrwolves. They enjoyed in those days the +alternative of being exorcised or executed. + +Arnold relates in his history of church and of heresy, how there was a +young man in Königsberg, well educated, the natural son of a priest, who +had the impression, that he was met near a crucifix in the wayside by +seven angels, who revealed to him that he was to represent God the +Father on earth, to drive all evil out of the world, &c. The poor +fellow, after pondering upon this impression a long time, issued a +circular commencing thus,-- + +"We, John Albrecht, Adelgreif, Syrdos, Amata, Kanemata, Kilkis, +Mataldis, Schmalkilimundis, Sabrundis, Elioris, Overarch High-priest, +and Emperor, Prince of Peace of the whole world, Overarch King of the +Holy Kingdom of Heaven, Judge of the living and of the dead, God and +Father, in whose divinity Christ will come on the last day to judge the +world, Lord of all Lords, King of all Kings," &c. + +He was thereupon thrown into prison at Königsberg, regarded as a most +frightful heretic, and every means were used by the clergy to reclaim +him. To all their entreaties, however, he listened only with a smile of +pity, "that they should think of reclaiming God the Father." He was then +put to the torture; and as what he endured made no alteration in his +convictions, he was condemned to have his tongue torn out with red-hot +tongs, to be cut in four quarters, and then burned under the gallows. He +wept bitterly, not at his own fate, but that they should pronounce such +a sentence on the Deity. The executioner was touched with pity, and +entreated him to make a final recantation. But he persisted that he was +God the Father, whether they pulled his tongue out by the roots or not; +and so he was executed! + +The Wehrwolves, and this poor creature, in what state were they? they +were merely insane. Then we must look further. + +Gmelin, in the first volume of his Contributions to Anthropology, +narrates, that in the year 1789, a German lady, under his observation, +had daily paroxysms, in which she believed herself to be, and acted the +part of a French emigrant. She had been in distress of mind through the +absence of a person she was attached to, and he was somehow implicated +in the scenes of the French revolution. After an attack of fever and +delirium, the complaint regulated itself, and took the form of a daily +fit of trance-waking. When the time for the fit approached, she stopped +in her conversation, and ceased to answer when spoken to; she then +remained a few minutes sitting perfectly still, her eyes fixed on the +carpet before her. Then, in evident uneasiness, she began to move her +head backwards and forwards, to sigh, and to pass her fingers across her +eye-brows. This lasted a minute, then she raised her eyes, looked once +or twice around with timidity and embarrassment, then began to talk in +French; when she would describe all the particulars of her escape from +France, and, assuming the manner of a French woman, talk purer and +better accented French than she had been known to be capable of talking +before, correct her friends when they spoke incorrectly, but delicately +and with a comment on the German rudeness of laughing at the bad +pronunciation of strangers; and if led herself to speak or read German, +she used a French accent, and spoke it ill; and the like. + +Now, suppose this lady, instead of thus acting, when the paroxysms +supervened, had cast herself on the ground, had uttered bad language and +blasphemy, and had worn a sarcastic and malignant expression of +countenance,--in striking contrast with her ordinary character and +behaviour, and _alternating with it_,--and you have the picture and the +reality of a person "possessed." + +A person, "possessed," is one affected with the form of trance-waking +called double consciousness, with the addition of being deranged when in +the paroxysm, and then, out of the suggestions of her own fancy, or +catching at the interpretation put on her conduct by others, believing +herself tenanted by the fiend. + +We may quite allowably heighten the above picture by supposing that the +person in her trance, in addition to being mad, might have displayed +some of the perceptive powers occasionally developed in trance; and so +have evinced, in addition to her demoniacal ferocity, an "uncanny" +knowledge of things and persons. To be candid, Archy, time was, when I +should myself have had my doubts in such a case. + +We have by this time had intercourse enough with spirits and demons to +prepare us for the final subject of witchcraft. + +The superstition of witchcraft stretches back into remote antiquity, and +has many roots. In Europe it is partly of Druidical origin. The +Druidesses were part priestesses, part shrewd old ladies, who dealt in +magic and medicine. They were called _all-rune_, all-knowing. There was +some touch of classical superstition mingled in the stream which was +flowing down to us;--so an edict of a council of Trêves, in the year +1310, has this injunction: "Nulla mulierum se nocturnis horis equitare +cum Dianâ propitiatur; hæc enim doemoniaca est illusio." But the main +source from which we derived this superstition, is the East, and +traditions and facts incorporated in our religion. There were only +wanted the ferment of thought of the fifteenth century, the vigour, +energy, ignorance, enthusiasm, and faith of those days, and the papal +denunciation of witchcraft by the famous Bull of Innocent the VIII. in +1459, to give fury to the delusion. And from this time for three +centuries, the flames, at which more than 100,000 victims perished, cast +a lurid light over Europe. + +One ceases to wonder at this ugly stain in the page of history, when one +considers all things fairly. + +The Enemy of mankind, bodily, with horns, hoofs, and tail, was believed +to lurk round every corner, bent upon your spiritual, if not bodily +harm. The witch and the sorcerer were not possessed by him against their +will, but went out of their way to solicit his alliance, and to offer to +forward his views for their own advantage, or to gratify their +malignity. The cruel punishments for a crime so monstrous were mild, +compared with the practice of our own penal code fifty or sixty years +ago against second-class offences. And for the startling bigotry of the +judges, which appears the most discreditable part of the matter, why, +how could they alone be free from the prejudices of their age? Yet they +did strange things. + +At Lindheim, Horst reports, on one occasion six women were implicated in +a charge of having disinterred the body of a child to make a +witch-broth. As they happened to be innocent of the deed, they underwent +the most cruel tortures before they would confess it. At length they saw +their cheapest bargain was to admit the crime, and be simply burned +alive and have it over. So they did so. But the husband of one of them +procured an official examination of the grave; when the child's body was +found in its coffin safe and sound. What said the Inquisitor? "This is +indeed a proper piece of devil's work; no, no, I am not to be taken in +by such a gross and obvious imposture. Luckily the women have already +confessed the crime, and burned they must and shall be in honour of the +Holy Trinity, which has commanded the extirpation of sorcerers and +witches." The six women were burned alive accordingly. + +It was hard upon them, because they were innocent. But the regular +witches, as times went, hardly deserved any better fate--considering, I +mean, their honest and straight-forward intentions of doing that which +they believed to be the most desperate wrong achievable. Many there were +who sought to be initiated in the black art. They were re-baptized with +the support of responsible witch sponsors, abjured Christ, and entered +to the best of their belief into a compact with the devil; and forthwith +commenced a course of bad works, poisoning and bewitching men and +cattle, and the like, or trying to do so. + +One feature transpired in these details, that is merely pathetic, not +horrifying or disgusting. + +The little children of course talked witchcraft, and you may fancy, +Archy, what charming gossip it must have made. Then the poor little +things were sadly wrought on by the tales they told. And they fell into +trances and had visions shaped by their heated fancies. + +A little maid, of twelve years of age, used to fall into fits of sleep, +and afterwards she told her parents, and _the judge_, how an old woman +and her daughter, riding on a broom-stick, had come and taken her out +with them. The daughter sat foremost, the old woman behind, the little +maid between them. They went away through the roof of the house, over +the adjoining houses and the town gate, to a village some way off. There +they went down a chimney of a cottage into a room, where sat a tall +black man and twelve women. They eat and drank. The black man filled +their glasses from a can, and gave each of the women a handful of gold. +She herself had received none; but she had eaten and drank with them. + +A list of persons burned in Salzburg for participation in witchcraft +between the years 1627 and 1629 in an outbreak of this frenzy, which had +its origin in an epidemic among the cattle, enumerates children of 14, +12, 11, 10, 9, years of age; which in some degree reconciles one to the +fate of the fourteen canons, four gentlemen of the choir, two young men +of rank, a fat old lady of rank, the wife of a burgomaster, a +counsellor, the fattest burgess of Wartzburg, together with his wife, +the handsomest woman in the city, and a midwife of the name of +Schiekelte, with whom (according to an N.B. in the original report) the +whole mischief originated. To amateurs of executions in those days the +fatness of the victim was evidently a point of consideration, as is +shown by the specifications of that quality in some of the victims in +the above list. Were men devils _then_? By no means; there existed then +as now upon earth, worth, honour, truth, benevolence, gentleness. But +there were other ingredients, too, from which the times are not yet +purged. A century ago people did not know--do they now?--that vindictive +punishment is a crime; that the only allowable purpose of punishment is +to prevent the recurrence of the offence; and that restraint, isolation, +employment, instruction, are the extreme and only means towards that end +which reason and humanity justify. Alas, for human nature! Some +centuries hence, the first half of the nineteenth century will be +charged with having manifested no admission of principle in advance of a +period, the judicial crimes of which make the heart shudder. The old +lady witches had, of course, much livelier ideas than the innocent +children, on the subject of their intercourse with the devils. + +At Mora, in Sweden, in 1669, of many who were put to the torture and +executed, seventy-two women agreed in the following avowal, that they +were in the habit of meeting at a place called Blocula. That on their +calling out "Come forth!" the Devil used to appear to them in a gray +coat, red breeches, gray stockings, with a red beard, and a peaked hat +with party-coloured feathers on his head. He then enforced upon them, +not without blows, that they must bring him, at nights, their own and +other peoples' children, stolen for the purpose. They travel through the +air to Blocula either on beasts or on spits, or broomsticks. When they +have many children with them, they rig on an additional spar to lengthen +the back of the goat or their broom-stick that the children may have +room to sit. At Blocula they sign their name in blood and are baptized. +The Devil is a humorous, pleasant gentleman; but his table is coarse +enough, which makes the children often sick on their way home, the +product being the so-called witch-butter found in the fields. When the +Devil is larky, he solicits the witches to dance round him on their +brooms, which he suddenly pulls from under them, and uses to beat them +with till they are black and blue. He laughs at this joke till his sides +shake again. Sometimes he is in a more gracious mood, and plays to them +lovely airs upon the harp; and occasionally sons and daughters are born +to the Devil, which take up their residence at Blocula. + +I will add an outline of the history, furnished or corroborated by her +voluntary confession, of a lady witch, nearly the last executed for this +crime. She was, at the time of her death, seventy years of age, and had +been many years sub-prioress of the convent of Unterzell, near +Wartzburg. + +Maria Renata took the veil at nineteen years of age, against her +inclination, having previously been initiated in the mysteries of +witchcraft, which she continued to practise for fifty years under the +cloak of punctual attendance to discipline and pretended piety. She was +long in the station of sub-prioress, and would, for her capacity, have +been promoted to the rank of prioress, had she not betrayed a certain +discontent with the ecclesiastic life, a certain contrariety to her +superiors, something half expressed only of inward dissatisfaction. +Renata had not ventured to let any one about the convent into her +confidence, and she remained free from suspicion, notwithstanding that, +from time to time, some of the nuns, either from the herbs she mixed +with their food, or through sympathy, had strange seizures, of which +some died. Renata became at length extravagant and unguarded in her +witch propensities, partly from long security, partly from desire of +stronger excitement; made noises in the dormitory, and uttered shrieks +in the garden; went at nights into the cells of the nuns to pinch and +torment them, to assist her in which she kept a considerable supply of +cats. The removal of the keys of the cells counteracted this annoyance; +but a still more efficient means was a determined blow on the part of a +nun, struck at the aggressor with the penitential scourge one night, on +the morning following which Renata was observed to have a black eye and +cut face. This event awakened suspicion against Renata. Then, one of the +nuns, who was much esteemed, declared, believing herself upon her +death-bed, that, "as she shortly expected to stand before her Maker, +Renata was uncanny, that she had often at nights been visibly tormented +by her, and that she warned her to desist from this course." General +alarm arose, and apprehension of Renata's arts; and one of the nuns, who +previously had had fits, now became possessed, and in the paroxysms told +the wildest tales against Renata. It is only wonderful how the +sub-prioress contrived to keep her ground many years against these +suspicions and incriminations. She adroitly put aside the insinuations +of the nun as imaginary or of calumnious intention, and treated +witchcraft and possession of the Devil as things which enlightened +people no longer believed in. As, however, five more of the nuns, either +taking the infection from the first, or influenced by the arts of +Renata, became possessed of devils, and unanimously attacked Renata, the +superiors could no longer avoid making a serious investigation of the +charges. Renata was confined in a cell alone, whereupon the six devils +screeched in chorus at being deprived of their friend. She had begged to +be allowed to take her papers with her; but this being refused, and +thinking herself detected, she at once avowed to her confessor and the +superiors, that she was a witch, had learned witchcraft out of the +convent, and had bewitched the six nuns. They determined to keep the +matter secret, and to attempt the conversion of Renata. And as the nuns +still continued possessed, they despatched her to a remote convent. +Here, under a show of outward piety, she still went on with her attempts +to realise witchcraft, and the nuns remained possessed. It was decided +at length to give Renata over to the civil power. She was accordingly +condemned to be burned alive; but in mitigation of punishment her head +was first struck off. Four of the possessed nuns gradually recovered +with clerical assistance; the other two remained deranged. Renata was +executed on the 21st January 1749. + +Renata stated, in her voluntary confession, that she had often at night +been carried bodily to witch-Sabbaths; in one of which she was first +presented to the Prince of Darkness, when she abjured God and the Virgin +at the same time. Her name, with the alteration of Maria into Emma, was +written in a black book, and she herself was stamped on the back as the +Devil's property, in return for which she received the promise of +seventy years of life, and all she might wish for. She stated that she +had often, at night, gone into the cellar of the _chateau_ and drank the +best wine; in the shape of a swine had walked on the convent walls; on +the bridge had milked the cows as they passed over; and several times +had mingled with the actors in the theatre in London. + +A question unavoidably presents itself--How came witchcraft to be in so +great a degree the province of women? There existed sorcerers, no doubt, +but they were comparatively few. Persons of either sex and of all ages +indiscriminately interested themselves in the black art; but the +professors and regular practitioners were almost exclusively women, and +principally old women. The following seem to have been some of the +causes. Women were confined to household toils; their minds had not +adequate occupation: many young unmarried women, without duties, would +lack objects of sufficient interest for their yearnings; many of the old +ones, despised, ill treated probably, soured with the world, rendered +spiteful and vindictive, took even more readily to a resource which +roused and gave employment to their imaginations, and promised to +gratify their wishes. It is evident, too, that the supposed sex of the +Devil helped him here. The old women had an idea of making much of him, +and of coaxing, and getting round the black gentleman. But beside all +this, there lies in the physical temperament of the other sex a peculiar +susceptibility of derangement of the nervous system, a predisposition to +all the varieties of trance, with its prolific sources of mental +illusion--all tending, it is to be observed, to advance the belief and +enlarge the pretensions of witchcraft. + +The form of trance which specially dominated in witchcraft was +trance-sleep with visions. The graduates and candidates in the faculty +sought to fall into trances, in the dreams of which they realised their +waking aspirations. They entertained no doubt, however, that their +visits to the Devil and their nocturnal exploits were genuine; and they +seem to have wilfully shut their eyes to the possibility of their having +never left their beds. For, with a skill that should have betrayed to +them the truth, they were used to prepare a witch-broth to promote in +some way their nightly expeditions. And this they composed not only of +materials calculated to prick on the imagination, but of substantial +narcotics, too--the medical effects of which they no doubt were +acquainted with. They contemplated evidently producing a sort of stupor. + +The professors of witchcraft had thus made the singular step of +artificially producing a sort of trance, with the object of availing +themselves of one of its attendant phenomena. The Thamans in Siberia do +the like to this day to obtain the gift of prophecy. And it is more than +probable that the Egyptian and Delphic priest habitually availed +themselves of some analogous procedure. Modern mesmerism is in part an +effort in the same direction. + +Without at all comprehending the real character of the power called into +play, mankind seems to have found out by a "mera palpatio," by +instinctive experiment and lucky groping in the dark, that in the stupor +of trance the mind occasionally stumbles upon odds and ends of strange +knowledge and prescience. The phenomenon was never for an instant +suspected of lying in the order of nature. It was construed, to suit the +occasion and the times, either into divine inspiration or diabolic +whisperings. But it was always supernatural. So the ignorant old +lemon-seller in Zschokke's Selbstschau thought his "hidden wisdom" a +mystical wonder; while the enlightened and accomplished narrator of +their united stories, stands alone, in striking advance ever of his own +day, when he unassumingly and diffidently puts forward his seer-gift as +_a simple contribution to psychical knowledge_. And thus, my proposed +task accomplished, my dear Archy, finally yours, &c. + + MAC DAVUS. + + + + +THE HYMN OF KING OLAF THE SAINT. + +ALTERED FROM THE ICELANDIC. + + + Swend, king of all, + In Olaf's hall + Now sits in state on high; + Whilst up in heaven + Amidst the shriven + Sits Olaf's majesty. + For not in cell + Does our hero dwell, + But in realms of light for ever: + As a ransom'd saint + To heal our plaint, + Be glory to thee, gold-giver! + + Of raptures there + He has won his share, + All cleansed from taint of sin; + For on earth prepared, + No toil he spared + That holy place to win. + That he hath won + Near God's dear Son + Fast by the holy river-- + Oh, such as thine + May the end be mine; + Be glory to thee, gold-giver! + + His sacred form + Unscathed by worm, + And clear as the hour he died, + Lies at this day + Where good men pray + At morn and at eventide. + His nails and his hair + Are fresh and fair, + With his yellow locks still growing; + His cheek as red, + And his flesh not dead, + Though the blood hath ceased from flowing. + + If you watch by night, + In the dim twilight + You may hear a requiem singing; + And the people hear + Above his bier + A small bell clearly ringing. + And if ye wait + Until midnight late, + You may hear the great bell toll: + But none can tell + Who tolls that bell + If it sounds for Olaf's soul. + With tapers clear, + Which Christ holds dear, + O'er the corpse so still reclining, + By day and night + Is the altar light + And the cross of the Saviour shining. + For our King did so, + And all men know + That washed from sin and shriven, + All free from taint, + A ransom'd saint, + He dwells with the saints in heaven. + + And thousands come, + The deaf and the dumb, + To the tomb of our monarch here-- + The sick and the blind + Of every kind + They throng to the holy bier. + With heads all bare + They breathe their prayer + As they kneel on the flinty ground: + God hears their sighs, + And the sick men rise + All whole, and healed, and sound. + + Then to Olaf pray, + To spare thy day + From wrath, and wrong, and harm; + To save thy land + From the spoiler's hand, + And the fell invader's arm. + God's man is he, + To deal to thee + What is ask'd in a lowly spirit-- + Let thy prayer not cease, + And wealth, and peace, + And a blessing thou shalt inherit. + + For prayers are good, + If before the rood + Thy beads thou tellest praying; + If thou tellest on, + Forgetting none + Of the saints who with God are staying. + + W. E. A. + + + + +FOUR SONNETS BY ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING. + +TWO SKETCHES. + + + I. + + The shadow of her face upon the wall + May take your memory to the perfect Greek; + But when you front her, you would call the cheek + Too full, sir, for your models, if withal + That bloom it wears could leave you critical, + And that smile reaching toward the rosy streak:-- + For one who smiles so, has no need to speak, + To lead your thoughts along, as steed to stall! + A smile that turns the sunny side o' the heart + On all the world, as if herself did win + By what she lavished on an open mart:-- + Let no man call the liberal sweetness, sin,-- + While friends may whisper, as they stand apart, + "Methinks there's still some warmer place within." + + + II. + + Her azure eyes, dark lashes hold in fee: + Her fair superfluous ringlets, without check, + Drop after one another down her neck; + As many to each cheek as you might see + Green leaves to a wild rose! This sign, outwardly, + And a like woman-covering seems to deck + Her inner nature! For she will not fleck + World's sunshine with a finger. Sympathy + Must call her in Love's name! and then, I know, + She rises up, and brightens, as she should, + And lights her smile for comfort, and is slow + In nothing of high-hearted fortitude. + To smell this flower, come near it; such can grow + In that sole garden where Christ's brow dropped blood. + + + MOUNTAINEER AND POET. + + The simple goatherd who treads places high, + Beholding there his shadow (it is wist) + Dilated to a giant's on the mist, + Esteems not his own stature larger by + The apparent image; but more patiently + Strikes his staff down beneath his clenching fist-- + While the snow-mountains lift their amethyst + And sapphire crowns of splendour, far and nigh, + Into the air around him. Learn from hence + Meek morals, all ye poets that pursue + Your way still onward up to eminence! + Ye are not great, because creation drew + Large revelations round your earliest sense, + Nor bright, because God's glory shines for you. + + + THE POET. + + The poet hath the child's sight in his breast, + And sees all _new_. What oftenest he has viewed, + He views with the first glory. Fair and good + Pall never on him, at the fairest, best, + But stand before him, holy, and undressed + In week-day false conventions; such as would + Drag other men down from the altitude + Of primal types, too early dispossessed. + Why, God would tire of all his heavens as soon + As thou, O childlike, godlike poet! did'st + Of daily and nightly sights of sun and moon! + And therefore hath He set thee in the midst + Where men may hear thy wonder's ceaseless tune, + And praise His world for ever as thou bidst. + + + + +CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE DECLINING OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE. + +(BEING A FEW PAGES FROM MY EASTERN DIARY). + + +----At half-past seven in the evening, we left Smyrna by the Scamandre, +a French government steamer, and were soon gliding over a sea smooth as +glass. The soft tints of the twilight spread gradually around us, and to +a beautiful day there succeeded one of those marvellous nights, during +which one cannot bring one's-self to the determination of retiring to +rest. + +The dawn of day surprised me on deck. In the morning we neared the land, +which presented to our view a desert plain, covered with dwarf oak. This +was the site of ancient Troy; we were coasting near those famous fields, +_ubi Troja fuit_; that stream which was throwing itself before our eyes +into the sea, was formerly called the "Simois;" those two hillocks which +we saw upon the coast, were the tombs of Hector and Patroclus; that huge +blue mountain which in the distance raised towards the sky its three +peaks covered with snow, was Ida; and behind us, from the midst of the +sparkling waves, rose the island of Tenedos. All conversation between +the passengers from many nations had long since ceased, and I +contemplated in silence that grim desert, which, at Eton, I had dreamed +of as full of movement and sound, and that calm sea which I had so often +figured to myself as covered with the ships of Agamemnon, of Ulysses, +and of Achilles the + + "Impiger, iracundus, inexorabilis, acer." + +At mid-day we entered the Dardanelles, and several hours afterwards, we +cast anchor between Sestos and Abydos, before a small white town, +containing no remarkable objects. Sestos and Abydos, which it must be +owned would not be by any means celebrated, were it not for the +enterprises which cost Leander his life and Lord Byron an ague, are two +hamlets, which, like the greater portion of Turkish villages, offer in +no shape whatever what it is the fashion to term the Oriental type. They +are composed of an assemblage of rose-coloured houses, whose large red +roofs, seen through the verdure and flowers, call to one's mind the +description of a Chinese village. + +Upon its arrival, the Scamandre was immediately surrounded by a +multitude of caicks filled with bearded Turks, veiled women, and various +coloured bales. Upon deck rose a deafening Babel of voices,--the sailors +swore, the women screamed, and the porters fought, until at length quiet +was restored, and one hundred and eighty-six new Mussulman passengers +came on board the steamer. Amid the caicks ranged along the sides of the +vessel, was one much more richly freighted than the rest; the traveller +to whom it belonged was a young Arab, who, standing on a pile of bales, +domineered over his boatmen by several feet. His white garments set off +to advantage his dark complexion; and a cloak of black wool, profusely +embroidered with gold lace, drew upon him the eyes of all. I had seldom, +if ever, beheld a head more beautiful or more expressive than that of +the young man. His large black eyes were full of intelligence, and in +his bearing was a natural nobility and pride. As long as the confusion, +described above, continued, he directed his boatmen to keep at a +distance, but when all were embarked, and the Scamandre was ready to +start, he hailed the vessel, and having mounted the side-ladders, gave +his hand to six veiled women in succession, whose long white dominos +prevented the spectators from even guessing at their age or beauty. The +young man, once on board, conducted his odalisques to a fore-cabin, +placed a hideous negro at the door as sentinel, and returned immediately +to the deck, where another negro presented him with a narguileh (Turkish +water-pipe). + +Nothing can less resemble our regular fortifications than the fort of +Gallipoli, (before which we soon after passed,) and the other castles of +the Dardanelles, which ought to render Constantinople the most +impregnable place in the world (from the sea.) The forts are large +buildings of a dazzling white colour, perforated with port-holes, +similar to those belonging to a ship of war, and mounted with old guns, +the greater portion of which are without carriages, and served, +ordinarily, by a single artillery-man, assisted in time of war by three +or four peasants. In the present century, however, these batteries have +shown their prowess, and against our own countrymen too. During the +month of February 1807, the British government, justly irritated at the +increasing influence that the French ambassador, Count Sebastiani, was +obtaining at the Ottoman court, despatched Admiral Sir John Duckworth, +in command of a squadron, with orders to bombard, if necessary, the +Seraglio itself. Unfortunately, Sir John Duckworth's plan of acting was +exactly contrary to what would have been our gallant Nelson's in the +same position. After having passed without difficulty before the then +disarmed castles of the Dardanelles, after having burned the Ottoman +fleet off Gallipoli, while the crews were peaceably celebrating on shore +the feast of Courban-Beiram, Sir John presented himself off +Constantinople, and threatened to bombard that city, should the Sultan +refuse to accept the conditions he offered, at the same time he allowed +his Imperial Highness two days to consider the terms; Nelson would have +allowed as many hours only. The folly of Admiral Duckworth's conduct +fully shown in the sequel, for, at the conclusion of the forty-eight +hours, the approaches to Stamboul and Galata were bristling--thanks to +the delay accorded, and to the exertions of the French ambassador--with +twelve hundred pieces of cannon; while, at the same time, orders having +been sent to the castles of the Dardanelles to mount their batteries, +the British squadron was hemmed in on all sides, as if by enchantment. +The besieged now became the aggressors, and there soon remained to +Admiral Duckworth no other resource than to weigh anchor and get away as +fast as possible, which he accordingly did. The batteries of the +Dardanelles were now, however, prepared for him. A most destructive fire +was opened upon the ill-fated fleet: two corvettes were sunk off +Gallipoli; the Admiral's flag-ship, the Royal George, lost her mainmast; +a huge marble ball, weighing eight hundred pounds, swept away a quantity +of hands from the lower deck of the Standard, while many officers and +seamen wore severely wounded. It must be here observed, that the +batteries of the Dardanelles owed much of the murderous effect of their +cannonading to the skill of eight French engineer officers, whom Count +Sebastiani, profiting by the delay accorded by Admiral Duckworth to the +Sultan, had despatched to the castles. + +These historical reminiscences did not prevent my thoughts occasionally +reverting to the six odalisques, who formed the suite of the young Arab +on board. Ever since their arrival, I had been reflecting that in all +probability never would so excellent an opportunity offer itself of +penetrating the secrets of a Mussulman harem, and of assuring myself of +the vaunted beauty of the mysterious women of Asia. As soon as we were +again in motion, I began to watch the black Argus to whose guard the +fair houris were intrusted. For more than an hour I lurked without +success about the fore-hatchway, for, faithful to his trust, the slave +was lying at the threshold of the door that closed upon his young +mistresses; and I was on the point of losing all patience, when I beheld +him suddenly rise and mount rapidly on deck. He had no sooner +disappeared than I glided into his place, and, having applied my eye to +a large chink in the door, cast a most indiscreet glance into the cabin. +In front of me two women were seated upon their heels, one of them had +thrown aside her veil; and I was gazing in admiration upon a pale but +beautiful face, set off by two immense black and brilliant eyes, when +suddenly I heard behind me the sound of hurried steps. It was the negro +returning to his post, who, on perceiving me, began to cry out most +lustily. Having no desire to commence a contest with him, I proceeded +to mount the hatchway and gain the deck. + +The exasperated slave, however, followed me, and hurrying to his master, +proceeded to inform him of my escapade, pointing at the same time to me. +Two old Turks leaped immediately to their feet with fury depicted on +their features; and one of them placed his hand upon the hilt of his +cangiar, and pronounced in a voice half-choked with passion the word +"Ghiaour," (infidel): in answer to which, I politely told him, (as I was +a good Turkish scholar,) to mind his own business, and that I was rather +inclined to consider him the greater infidel of the two. He looked both +surprised and vexed at this, but did not attempt to retort. As to the +young Arab, he proved himself to be a man of sense; for, contenting +himself with smiling at his infuriated attendant, he descended to the +cabin of his odalisques, from whence he did not emerge during the +remainder of our voyage. I did not again see him, and never knew who was +the Mussulman, so handsome and at the same time so little fanatical. + +The strait through which we had navigated all day, gradually widened as +we advanced; the shores as they receded were covered with opal tints; +the vessel began to roll, and we entered the sea of Marmora. At sunset +the Mussulmans with whom the deck was crowded collected in groups, and +devoutly said their evening prayer. Their countenances were wrapped in +deep devotion, and they appeared to take no notice of the satirical +smiles, which the strangeness of their attitudes called forth from +several unreflecting travellers, who, by wanting in respect for the +usages of the countries through which they were passing, lowered +themselves immensely in the estimation of the inhabitants. The +irritation excited by the ill-timed railleries of such foolish persons, +is no doubt one of the chief causes of the hatred in which Christians +are held in Turkey. Surely nothing could be less calculated to excite +mockery, than the sight of the Mussulman travellers at their evening +devotions; besides, be it had in mind, that upon this Christian vessel, +scarcely a Christian perhaps was thinking of his God, while not a single +Mahometan was to be seen unengaged in prayer, as the sun sunk below the +horizon. + +The following morning I was early upon deck. The sun had not yet risen, +and the air was fresh and invigorating; while upon the white, heavy, +oily sea, was a slight fog, which the breeze was dispersing in flakes. +Around us a quantity of porpoises were either splashing in the midst of +the waves or floating like buoys upon the surface. The most profound +silence reigned upon the deck of the steamer. Wet with the night-dews, +the half-slumbering seamen of the watch were seated in a circle near the +funnel; while numberless Turks, rolled up in their yellow coverlets +striped with red, were sleeping forward beneath the netting: the +steersman at the wheel and the man on the look-out were alone really +wide awake. Suddenly, I perceived dawning in the east a greenish light, +which became yellow as it ascended in the heavens; the low and flat +shore appeared like a black line upon this luminous background, and by +degrees the sea resumed its azure tint. An hour afterwards we were +within cannon-shot of the Seraglio; but, alas! a thick fog covered the +city. Constantinople was invisible--and I was deploring the mischance, +which was depriving me of a long-anticipated pleasure, when suddenly the +sun shone forth brightly, and the fog acquired as if by enchantment a +wonderful transparency. The curtain was, as it were, torn to bits, and +from all quarters at once there appeared to my dazzled eyes forests of +minarets with gilded peaks, thousands of cupolas blazing in the light, +hills covered with many-coloured houses, surrounded by verdure; an +immense succession of palaces with grotesque windows, blue-roofed +mosques, groves of cypress-trees and sycamores, gardens full of flowers, +a port filled as far as the eye could discern with ships, masts, and +flags; in a word, the whole of that enchanted city, which resembles less +an immense capital than an endless succession of lovely kiosks, built in +a boundless park, having lakes for docks, mountains for background, +forests for thickets, fleets for boats,--in fine, an incomparable spot, +and at the same time so grand and elegant, that it seems to have been +designed by fairies, and executed by giants. + +Several writers have compared the view of Constantinople to that of +Naples. I cannot, however, agree with them. Any one can figure the +latter capital, whilst, on the contrary, the City of the Sultan +surpasses all that imagination can picture. Our enchantment, however, +was of short duration: the vapours again became condensed, the view was +gradually covered with a rosy haze, then became dim, and Constantinople +disappeared from before us like a dream. The Scamandre, which had +stopped for a few minutes, was again put in motion, and having rounded +the Seraglio, cast anchor in the midst of the strait which separates +Stamboul (the Turkish quarter) from Galata, (the European faubourg.) In +a moment the deck of our vessel was one scene of confusion: the sailors +were running to and fro, while the passengers were rushing one against +another, vociferating after their baggage. Around the vessel there kept +gliding two or three hundred black caicks, rowed by half-naked boatmen; +and notwithstanding the orders to the contrary, a quantity of Maltese +sailors, Turkish porters, and Levantine ciceroni came on board, and +literally took us by storm, bawling out their offers of service, in +almost every known language. Clouds of blue pigeons, and whitewinged +albatros, flew about over our heads, uttering plaintive cries; add to +these the stentorian voice of our French commander, the curiosity and +impatience of the travellers demonstrated by their noisy exclamations, +and one will have an idea of the spectacle offered by the deck of a +steamer on its arrival at a Turkish port. + +During the hauling of the vessel to the quay, I scarcely knew upon what +to fix my eyes, attracted as they simultaneously were by a thousand +different objects. Here was the Golden Horn with its numberless ships, +the cypress-trees of Galata, and the seven hills of ancient Byzantium +covered with mosques; there, the blue waves of the Propontis, and the +glittering banks of Scutari. Giddy with enthusiasm, and intoxicated with +admiration, I attempted, as our caick approached the landing-place, to +be the first to leap upon the quay, when, just as I was in the act of +springing, my foot slipped, and I fell headlong into a miry stream. Such +was my entrance into Constantinople. + +As soon as I gained footing, splashed with mud from head to foot, I +remained a moment motionless, and almost petrified with astonishment. +All was changed around me: the enchanted panorama had disappeared, and I +found myself in a small filthy crossway, at the entrance of a labyrinth +of narrow, damp, dark, muddy streets. The houses which surrounded me, +built as they were of disjointed planks, had a miserable aspect; time +and rain had diluted their primitive red colour into numberless nameless +tints. One of those minarets which from afar appeared so slender and so +beautiful, now that it was close to me proved to be merely a small +column devoid of symmetry, while its covering of cracked plaster seemed +on the point of falling to pieces. The Turkish promenaders whom from a +distance I had taken for richly attired merchants, proved to be a set of +miserable tatterdemalions with ragged turbans. Behind the porters who +crowded to the landing-place, were butchers embowelling sheep in the +open street; while the pavement was covered with bloody mire and smoking +entrails, around which several score of hideous dogs, of a fallow +colour, were growling and fighting. A fetid stench arose from the damp +gutters, where neither air nor light have ever penetrated, where +corruptions of all sorts amass, and where one is continually in danger +of stepping upon a dead dog or rat. Such is without exaggeration the +aspect of the greater part of the streets of Constantinople, and in +particular those of Galata. This contrast between the misery of what +surrounds you, and the incomparable beauty of the same spot when seen +from a distance, has never yet been sufficiently remarked upon by +travellers who seek to describe Constantinople. Perhaps they have been +unwilling to cool the enthusiasm of their readers in dirtying with these +hideous, but true details, their gold and silver-plated descriptions. + +Perfectly disenchanted by this sudden change of scene, I followed the +bearer of my baggage up a street, which was steep, badly paved, and so +narrow that three men could scarcely have walked along it abreast. On +the right and left hand were disgusting little shops, or rather booths, +filled with green fruit and vegetables. Having proceeded onwards, we +rounded the tower of Galata, which, from a near view resembles a +handsome dove-cote, and shortly afterwards arrived at Pera, and +proceeded to take up our quarters at a kind of hotel, kept by one +Giusepine Vitali, where I immediately went to bed and was soon +afterwards fast asleep. + +At ten o'clock, A.M., I was awakened by my fellow-travellers, and +accompanied them to the caravanserai of the Turning Dervishes. A +somewhat lengthened residence in the northern provinces of Persia, where +a Turkish idiom is spoken, had given me a tolerable fluency in that +language, and I was thus enabled to act as interpreter to my friends. +The cicerone of the hotel conducted us to a circular building situated +in the midst of a small garden, whither was hurrying a crowd composed of +Greeks, Armenians, and Turks. Having arrived at the vestibule, we took +off our boots and confided them to the care of a man who kept a sort of +depôt for slippers, of which he hired out to each of us a pair. We then +entered a large circular hall, lighted from above, in the centre of +which was an oaken floor, waxed and polished with the greatest care, and +protected by a balustrade. Around this arena were seated a number of +spectators of all ages, country, and costumes, and exhaling a strong +odour of garlic. The ceremony was commenced: for to the music of a +barbarous orchestra, composed of small timbals and squeaking fifes, +accompanying some nasal voices, about twenty tall, bearded young men, +clad in long white robes, were waltzing gravely round an old man in a +blue pelisse. These men carried on their heads a thick beaver cap, +similar in form to a flower-pot turned upside down. Their white robes, +made of a heavy kind of woollen stuff, were so constantly bulged out +with the air that they seemed made of wood. With their arms extended in +the form of a cross, the left hand being somewhat more elevated than the +right, and their looks fixed upon the ceiling with a stupid stare, these +Dervishes continued to turn rapidly round upon their naked feet with +such regularity and impassibility that they seemed like automatons put +into motion by machinery. + +Suddenly the music ceased, upon which the Dervishes threw themselves +simultaneously upon their knees, inclining their heads at the same time +to the ground. For several minutes they remained motionless in this +position, while some attendants threw a large black cloak over each, +upon which they again stood up and ranged themselves in a line. Upon +this the old man in the blue pelisse, who had hitherto sat motionless +upon his heels, began a plaintive nasal chant, to which his subordinates +responded in a roaring chorus; this finished, the crowd began to +disperse, and we returned to our hotel. + +Besides the Turning Dervishes, there are also at Constantinople the +Howling Dervishes, who, instead of waltzing until they fall from +giddiness, continue to utter the most frightful shrieks, until they fall +upon the ground exhausted and foaming at the mouth. Historians have +accorded different origins to these singular and absurd exercises; for +my part, I am inclined to consider them as remnants of the furious +dances taught by the ancient people of Asia to the Corybantes. + +The day after my arrival I embarked for Stamboul, the Turkish quarter, +in one of those long caicks which are as it were the hackney coaches of +Constantinople. The least oscillation is sufficient to upset these light +barks, which are impelled with inconceivable rapidity by two or three +fine light-looking Arnaouts, dressed in silken shirts. In two minutes, +having traversed the Golden Horn, passing through an immense crowd of +boats of every form, and ships of every nation, we disembarked upon a +landing-place even more dangerous than the caick, on account of its +slipperiness and the chances thereby of falling headlong into a +receptacle of filth and mud. The streets of Stamboul are still more +narrow, filthy, and fetid than those of Galata and Pera. Wooden hovels, +badly constructed, and worse painted; a species of cages pierced with an +infinite number of trellised windows, with one story projecting over the +ground floor, flank on the right and on the left hand these passages, +through which hurry a motley crowd with noiseless tread. The pavement, +made of little stones placed in the dust, slip from under one's feet and +expose one to continual falls. Upon the boards of the first shops one +passes are piled heaps of large fish, whose scales glitter in the sun, +in spite of the dust. Fawn-coloured dogs, in much greater numbers than +at Galata, run between your legs--and wo to whosoever should disengage +himself too energetically from these hideous brutes, which are protected +by Mussulman bigotry! The habits of these animals, whose number amounts +to above a hundred thousand, are exceedingly singular. They belong to no +one, and have no habitation; they are born, they live and they die, in +the open street; at every turn one may see a litter of puppies suckled +by their mother. Upon what these quadrupeds feed it would be difficult +to state. The Turkish government abandons to them the clearing of the +streets, and the offal and every sort of filth, together with the dead +bodies of their fellows, compose their apparently ordinary nourishment. +At night they wander about in the burying grounds, howling in the most +frightful manner. Whatever may be their means of existence, they +multiply their species with the most surprising rapidity. Some years +ago, the canine race had increased to such a degree at Constantinople +that it became dangerous, when, to the pious horror of the Old +Mussulmans, the Sultan Mahmood, among other reforms, caused twenty +thousand of these animals to be, not poisoned, he would not have dared +to so greatly offend against the prejudices of the inhabitants, but +transported to the isles of Marmora. In a few days they had devoured +every thing in the place of exile, after which, tormented by hunger, +they made such a hideous row, and uttered such plaintive howls, that +pity was taken upon them, and they were brought back in triumph to +Constantinople. Fortunately hydrophobia is unknown in the Levant. + +The bazars of Constantinople have been so often described that it would +be useless to describe them at any length. I will merely observe, +therefore, that though infinitely more considerable, they do not +respond, any more than those of Smyrna, to the ideas of luxury and +grandeur which untravelled Europeans are apt to conceive of them. The +Turkish bazars have a miserable aspect; they are nothing more than an +immense labyrinth of large vaulted galleries, clumsily built, and at all +times damp in the extreme. Magnificent carpets, stuffs embroidered in +gold and silver, and other objects, the richness of which contrasts most +singularly with the nakedness of the walls, are hung out for display on +cords stretched transversely. The counter is a flat board of wood, very +slightly elevated above the ground, and which serves as a divan to the +seller and a seat to the buyer. From this place, which is usually +covered with a mat, the Mussulman gazes in silence upon the passing +foreigner, whom he rarely deigns to address by the name of Effendi; +while, on the contrary, the active and loquacious Armenian even leaves +his shop to run after him with some tempting object in his hand, at the +same time indiscriminately giving him the title of "Signore Capitan." In +the bazars are an astonishing number of articles which are often very +cheap, such as tissues of silk, dressing gowns, gold embroidery, and +Persian carpets, perfumery, precious stones, pieces of amber, furs, +sweetmeats, pipes, morocco leather, velvet slippers, silken scarfs and +Cachemire shawls cover a space extending over several leagues. In the +"_Besestein_," a large building separated from the other bazars, one +meets with in quantities those old arms, so sought after by antiquaries, +carbines ornamented with coral, magnificent yataghans worn by the +Janissaries before their destruction, and the famous blades of Khorasan. + +The commerce of Constantinople is closely allied with that of Smyrna; +and many branches of trade, such as silk and opium, being required to +pay duties at the customhouse of the capital, the merchants buy them at +Constantinople merely in order to pass them over to Smyrna, where they +find a more advantageous market for them. In consequence, these goods +are twice borne upon the registers of the Turkish customhouses, which, +be it observed, are exceedingly badly kept. Wool forms the principal +branch of trade at the Porte, which is abundantly furnished with that +article from her nearest provinces, Roumelia, Thessaly, and Bulgaria, +which, containing about five million inhabitants, feed about eight +million sheep, the value of which may be estimated at about two hundred +million piastres, (the Turkish piastre, is worth about 2-1/4d.) It would +have been impossible for such an important object to have failed +exciting the cupidity of a government constituted like that of the +Ottoman empire; in consequence, in 1829, they attempted to make a +monopoly of the wool-trade. Fortunately, the clamorous despair of the +owners of the flocks, and some good advice, caused the Divan to recall +the measure, which would in all probability not only have given a fatal +blow to the wool-trade, but have entirely put an end to the feeding of +flocks throughout Turkey. Instead, therefore, of monopolising this +branch of commerce, the government saddled it with such an exorbitant +duty, that the provinces definitively gained little by the change. The +price of wool was more than quadrupled, and in 1833 there was sold for +above 170 piastres the hundredweight what in 1816 cost but forty +piastres. The abolition of the monopolies and the modification of the +duties have given, since the last six or seven years, some facilities to +this trade, without, however, entirely restoring it to its former state +of prosperity. Partly destroyed by the severe blow it had received, and +shackled by the avarice of the Pashas, it languishes, as indeed does +every other branch of trade and industry in the empire. + +Of Turkey, which men have rendered a country of misery and of famine, +the Almighty seems to have intended to have made a land of promise. For +agriculture, He has created immense plains, unequalled in fertility +throughout the globe, and in the bowels of the mountains He has hidden +incalculable treasures; and in return for all these gifts, these +glorious gifts, what have the inhabitants done? they have left the land +uncultivated, and the mountains unsearched. Mines of all sorts abound. +Copper, (which is sold in secret only, and is a contraband article,) +were its mines worked on a grand scale, would alone furnish a new +element of commerce to Constantinople, and might help to draw it from +its present state of torpor. But will the Turks ever dream of such a +thing? Never! For like the dog in the fable, the Ottomans will neither +profit themselves nor let others profit by what is in the territory. Too +indolent to work out the natural riches of their soil, they are too +jealous to permit others to do it for them. Besides, Europeans, by an +ancient law which we have recently seen confirmed, having no right to +possess land in Turkey, cannot undertake any agricultural or commercial +speculation of any importance. In addition to this, the Turkish +government itself is ignorant of most of the natural riches of its +territory; for the inhabitants, well knowing the character of the men +who have the management of affairs, take every possible precaution to +conceal the existence of the mines, for fear they should be forced to +work them without remuneration. + +The provinces of the Danube have now yielded to Thrace and to Macedon +the furnishing of the capital with corn. This important trade has been +ruined, like every thing else, by the barbarous measures of a stupid +ministry. In reserving to itself the supplying of the capital, the +government does not allow the exportation of corn without special +permission. Without doubt, the liberty of this trade would have given a +new impulse to agriculture, and would have restored prosperity to +several provinces; but that would not have been for the interest of +those personages who had the power of giving permits, and who +consequently made a traffic of the firmans. In 1828, a circumstance +occurred which ought to have enlightened the government on this point. +The Russians had intercepted all communication with the capital, and in +consequence a want of provisions occurred; for the ill-furnished public +magazines afforded such damaged wheat only, that it could with great +difficulty be baked into bad and unhealthy bread. To remedy this evil, +an employé ventured to suggest that any one who could procure corn +should be permitted to supply the capital. The situation of affairs was +critical, for the people were beginning to murmur; and the suggestion +was carried into effect. No sooner was the permission accorded, than a +multitude of farmers and merchants hastened to pour grain into the +market, and plenty soon reappeared. This was an excellent lesson to the +government, but how did it profit thereby? First of all it reinstated +the monopoly, and four years afterwards, in 1832, happening to require a +million measures for its magazines, in order to make more sure of +speedily procuring that quantity, it forbade the _exportation_ of corn, +inasmuch that to collect the required million of measures, it destroyed, +in all probability, a hundred millions, and ruined about ten thousand +cultivators. This barbarous system partly ended in 1838, but it will be +long before its withering effects are effaced. + +It is in the long corridors of the bazars that the commercial business +of the country is carried on. An immense multitude, more curious to view +than even the exposition of the different wares, congregates thither +daily. Constantinople, notwithstanding its state of decline, is always +the point of intersection between the eastern and western world. At this +general rendezvous, whither Europe and Asia send their representatives, +one may study the human species in almost every possible variety of +type. English, Americans, Russians, Greeks, Italians, Germans, Persians, +Circassians, Arabs, Koords, Austrians, Hungarians, Abyssinians, Tartars, +French, &c. &c., hurry to and fro around the Turk, who smokes and +dreams, calm and immovable amidst the active throng, which presents an +inconceivable medley of silk pelisses, white bornous and black robes, +surmounted by green turbans, red fezs, and beaver hats. Numbers of +women, covered with white dominos, advance slowly and spectre-like +through the crowd, which every now and then opens its ranks to give +passage to some mounted Pasha, followed by his attendants on foot. Here +and there may be seen asses loaded with bales, and at the further end of +the galleries are caravans of camels. One's ears are deafened with the +piercing cries of the sherbet-sellers, and the howling of the dogs; +while quantities of pigeons coo over the heads of the motley crowd. +Although, on taking a general view of this spectacle, there is little to +admire, still one may select from it an infinite number of original +scenes and pictures full of character. Here, for instance, an ambulating +musician sings, or rather chants to an attentive audience one of those +interminable ballads of which the Turks never tire; there, are half a +dozen Greeks quarrelling and vociferating so energetically, that one +would expect nothing less than that from words they would come to +bloodshed; while, further on, a circle of friends are regaling +themselves over a basket of green cucumbers. Talking of cucumbers, they +almost entirely compose, in summer, the nourishment of the Turks. The +Sultan Mahmood II. was excessively fond of this fruit, or rather +vegetable, and cultivated it with his own hands in the Seraglio gardens. +Having one day perceived that some of his cucumbers were missing, he +sent for his head gardener, and informed him that, should such a +circumstance occur again, he would order his head to be cut off. The +next day three more cucumbers had been stolen, upon which the gardener, +to save his own head, accused the pages of his highness of having +committed the theft. These unhappy youths were immediately sent for, and +having all declared themselves innocent, the enraged Sultan, in order to +discover the culprit, commanded them one after another to be +disembowelled. Nothing was found in the stomach or entrails of the first +six victims, but the autopsy of the seventh proved him to have been the +guilty one. + +In the midst of the crowds in the Turkish capital, the women present a +curious spectacle, wandering about as they do covered with white +dominos, or rather winding-sheets. The lot of this portion of the +Mussulman population is much less unhappy than one would be led to +expect. They certainly hold a secondary station in society, but, +brought-up as they are in the most complete ignorance, they are +unconscious of their degraded position, and know not that there is a +better. They are, in general, treated very kindly by their husbands and +masters, and do not undergo, as it is supposed, either capricious or +brutal treatment. Although in Europe they still believe a Turk to be +constantly surrounded by a multitude of odalisques, to whom, as it suits +his fancy, he throws in turn his handkerchief, at Constantinople there +are very few Osmanlees who have three or even two wives, and even these +they lodge in separate mansions, in general far distant from each other. +Almost all the Turks, with the exception of the very few above mentioned +individuals, possess in general but one wife, to whom they are most +faithful. The grand seignior alone is a Sultan in the full and +voluptuous acceptation of the term. He is possessor of a magnificent +palace, where no noise from without ever penetrates, and where immense +riches have collected together all the wonders of luxury. Marble baths, +lovely gardens bounded by a sparkling sea, and vaulted by an indigo sky, +legions of slaves, who have no will but his, no law but his caprices; +and in this Eden three or four hundred women chosen from out of the most +beautiful in the universe; this is the world, this is the life of that +man: and yet, although he be so young, all who know him say that the +present Sultan is morose, sad, and splenetic. + +On mounting, at sixteen, upon the throne of Turkey, Abdul Medjid +announced it to be his intention to change nothing that his father +Mahmood had established, and declared himself a partisan of the system +of reform commenced by that sovereign. Notwithstanding the custom, +rendered almost sacred by tradition, he renounced the turban and was +_crowned_ with the fez. Contrary to the usage of former Sultans, who on +their accession put to death or closely imprisoned all their brothers, +he allowed his brother Abdul Haziz not only his life, but full liberty. + +The Hatti-sherif of Gulhanch, published on the 19th of November 1839, +and which has been viewed in so many and different lights, proved at +least the good intentions of this sovereign, called so young to support +so weighty a burden. At various times he has manifested a desire for +instruction, and has taken lessons in geography and in Italian; he has +also travelled over a part of his empire. + +It is usual at Constantinople for the Sultan to proceed every Friday +(the Mussulman Sabbath) to pray in one of the mosques. The one chosen is +named in the morning, and he proceeds thither on horseback or in his +caick, according to the quarter in which it is situated. This weekly +ceremony is almost the sole occasion on which foreigners can see his +highness. During my stay at Constantinople, I had several opportunities +of gazing upon the descendant of the Prophet. He is a young man, of +slender frame, of grave physiognomy, and a most _distingué_ appearance. +A crowd of officers and eunuchs formed his suite, and all heads bowed +low at his approach. Abdul Medjid, who was the twentieth-born child of +his father Mahmood, was born at Constantinople on the 19th of April +1823. His black and stiff beard cause him to appear older than he is in +reality. His eye is very brilliant, and his features regular. His face +is somewhat marked with the smallpox; but this is not very apparent, as +the young sultan, according to the custom of the harem, has an +artificial complexion for days of ceremony. Naturally of a delicate +frame, excesses have much enfeebled his constitution; his continual +ill-health, his pallor, and his teeth already decayed, announce, that +though so young in years, he is expiating the pleasures of a Sultan by a +premature decrepitude. Abdul Medjid has several children, who are weak +and sickly like their father, and the state of their health inspires +constant anxiety. + +Few sovereigns have been more diversely judged than Mahmood, the father +of the present Sultan. Lauded to the skies by some, lowered to the dust +by others, he died before Europe was properly enlightened as to his +intentions. Now that his work has undergone the ordeal of time, one can +appreciate it at its real value. Ascending the throne at an epoch of +anarchy and disorder, having at one and the same time to oppose the +invasion of Russia, and to put down the rebellion of the Pashas, who +were raising their pashalicks into sovereignties, Mahmood gave proofs, +during several years, of a force of character almost inconceivable in a +man enervated from his childhood by the pleasures of the harem. +Unfortunately his intellect was unequal to his obstinacy: every abuse he +put down gave rise to or made way for new abuses, which he could not +foresee, and was unable to destroy. The established order of affairs, +which he fought against, was a hydra, from which, for one head cut off, +twenty sprang up. Far from augmenting his power, his greatest +enterprises merely tended to enfeeble it. The repression of Ali the +Pasha of Janina, cost Mahmood the kingdom of Greece; and had not the +powers of Europe intervened, the war against Mehemet Ali would have cost +him his throne. Even the destruction of the Janissaries, which was +considered so great a cause of triumph by the Sultan, was it in reality +so? It is surely permitted to doubt the circumstance. That powerful +militia, scattered through the empire, was in some sort the focus of +that spirit of fatalism, which had till then been the principal prop of +the imperfect work of the Arabian impostor; to destroy it was to strike +a death-blow to that society which breathed as it were in war alone. In +overthrowing an obstacle which paralysed his power, Mahmood dug an abyss +into which the Turkish empire must sooner or later fall; for the spirit +of religious enthusiasm which he destroyed has been replaced by no other +incentive. + +The chief fault of Mahmood was the cutting down without thinking of +sowing; for without properly understanding the extent of what he was +doing, he too hastily cast from its old course, without placing it in a +better, a dull stupid nation, to transform which required both time and +patience. Above all, Mahmood was guided solely by the impulses of an +indomitable pride, and seems to have much less considered the interests +of his empire, than the satisfying of his own vanity. He hastened to +change the aspect and surface of things, deluding himself into the idea +that he had metamorphosed an Asiatic people into a European state. +Hurried away by the desire of innovation, and at the same time cramped +by the effects of a religion which resists all progress, striving in +vain to make the precepts of the Koran compatible with civilisation, +Mahmood moved during the whole of his reign within a fatal circle, and, +dying of an ignoble malady, he left his empire tottering to its fall. + + + + +HORÆ CATULLIANÆ. + +LETTER TO EUSEBIUS. + + +You desire, then, my dear Eusebius, to hear more of the Curate's +difficulty. We left him, you remember, with Gratian, who took him by the +arm, and walked off to see what his authority would do to quell the +parochial disturbance. You have seen the general opinion upon the +countenance Gratian would give to delinquents; you will not, therefore, +augur very favourably of this expedition. Loving a little mischief, as +you do, you will, perhaps, be not quite agreeably disappointed. Had +Gratian trusted alone to his character, he would have failed; which +shows that sometimes it is dangerous to have too good a one. + +Not a parishioner but would have looked upon the patronage of Gratian to +the Curate as resulting from the weakness--those who meant to turn it to +compliment would say, the excessive kindness, of his nature. A little +malice interposing, they were by no means disposed, if they loved +Gratian, "to love his dog,"--in the light of which comparison they now +looked upon the Curate. Gratian's sly wit, however, availed more than +his authority. It seems they had not proceeded very far when they met +Prateapace. The Curate having some business in another direction, left +Gratian with the maiden-lady. You can imagine his first advances, +complimenting her upon her fresh morning looks. Then taking her by the +arm, as if for familiar support, transferring his stick to the other +hand, and looking his cajolery inimitably, and with a low voice saying, +"My dear Miss Lydia, what is all this story I hear that you charge the +Curate with?" "Oh, no, not I!" interrupted the maiden; "it is you have +done that. I only know that I heard you reprove him for his behaviour to +some one or other, whom you seriously declared either must be or ought +to be his wife." "My dear _young_ lady," said Gratian, "that is now +quite a mistake of yours:" he then, as he reports, told her what they +had been reading, and that his remarks were upon the book, and the +author of it, and had nothing to do with the Curate. To all which she +nodded her head incredulously, and laughingly said, "Oh, you good, +_good_-natured man; and pray who may that improper author be?" "Why," +quoth Gratian, "Miss Lydia Prateapace wouldn't, I know, have me +recommend her any _improper_ author." "Oh, no, no!--I don't ask with any +intention to read him, I assure you," she replied. Gratian went on, +"Believe me, he is a very old author, a Roman." "A Roman indeed!" she +quite vociferated--"one of those horrid Papists, I suppose! A Roman is +he? Then the Curate--why should he read Papistical books, and learn such +tricks from them?" It was in vain for Gratian to endeavour to explain. +Miss Prateapace had but one notion of the Romans--that there never was +one that had not kissed the Pope's toe. So here he very wisely took +another tack, and drawing her a little aside, as if he would not have +even the very hedges hear him, and with no little affected caution, +looking about him, he said, in a half whisper--"Now let me, my dear +young lady, tell you a bit of a secret. All this is an idle tale, and is +just as I have told you; but this I tell you, that to my certain +knowledge, the Curate's _affections_"--laying stress on the word +affections--"are seriously engaged;" at which Miss Lydia stared, and +looked the personification of curiosity. "Engaged is he, did you say?" +"No, _he_ is not engaged," said Gratian, "but I happen to know that his +affections are--" "Then," quoth she, "I suppose he has declared as much +to the object." "Ah--no!--there is the very point--you are quite +mistaken--she has not the slightest suspicion of it." This was scarcely +credible to the lady's notion of love-making, but the earnest manner of +Gratian was every thing. "No," said he; "he is a most exemplary +conscientious young man, and so far avoids the making any show of his +feelings, that he affects, I really believe, more indifference towards +that lady than to any other. He tells me that he thinks it would not be +honourable in his present circumstances and position to engage _her_ +affections; but he looks forward, as his prospects are fair." Miss Lydia +was interested--pondered awhile, and then said, "You dear good man, do +tell me who the lady is!" "No," replied Gratian, "I dare not betray a +secret; but be assured, my dear Miss Lydia Prateapace, that if our +Curate marries, he will make his choice not very far from this." "You +don't say so!" cried she: "Really now, who can it be?" "I can only say +one thing more," replied our fox Gratian, "and perhaps that is saying +too much; but--" whispering in her ear--"of all the letters in the +alphabet, her name begins with Lydia." Whereupon he made a start, put +his finger upon his lips, as if he had in his hurry told the secret; and +she started back a pace in another direction, looked in his face to see +if he was in jest; finding there nothing but apparent simplicity, she +looked a little confused, and evidently took the compliment and the +_hopes_ into her own bosom. When she could sufficiently collect her +thoughts, she expressed her sorrow for any mischief she might have done, +unintentionally; and added, that she would do all in her power to set +all things right again. At this point the Curate returned: he addressed +her somewhat distantly, which to her was a sign stronger than +familiarity, upon the power of which she gave him her hand _of +encouragement_. Gratian took care to leave well alone--let go her arm, +and leaning upon the Curate's wished her good morning, with a gracious +smile about his insidious mouth, to which he put his finger +significantly as if entreating her silence upon the subject of their +conversation. I have told you the particulars of this interview, +Eusebius, as I could gather them from Gratian's narration; and he has a +way of acting what he says, as if he had studied in that school where +the first requisite for an orator is--action; the second--action; the +third--action! + +Our friend Gratian, Eusebius, made no matter of conscience of this +fibbing--did not hesitate--wanted no "ductor dubitantium"--as he told it +to us. He gave, it is true, his limb a smarter tapping; but it was no +twinge of conscience that caused the movement of the stick, and there is +nothing of the Franciscan about our friend. Did he _say_ a word that was +not perfect truth? + +But what was the intention?--did he mean to deceive? But this is not a +question to discuss with you. You will do more than acquit him. So I am +answered, and silent. Gratian's answer was this. In his fabulous mood, +he asked--"If you should see a lion, an open-mouthed lion of the +veritable [Greek: chasm' odontôn] breed, traversing a wood, and he +should accost you thus, 'Pray, sir, did you chance to see a man I am +looking after go this way?' would you point out his lurking place, his +path of escape? or would you not, if you knew he went to the right, +direct the lion by all means to continue his pursuit on the left? Then, +sir, which will your worshipful morality prefer, to be the accessary to +the murder, or the principal in the deceit?" + +I must not omit to tell you that a few days ago Gratian and the Curate +spent a pleasant day with the Bishop, who was not a little amused at +their narration of the circumstances that produced the singular +parochial epistle, which his lordship had duly received. The Bishop's +hospitality is well seasoned with conversational ease, and perfect +agreeability, and has besides that + + "Seu quid suavius elegantiusve est" + +which our Catullus promises to his friend Fabullus. The Bishop, a ripe +scholar, spoke much and critically of Catullus, and laid most stress +upon the extreme suavity of his measures, especially in the "Acmen +Septimius." There were present two archdeacons and a very agreeable +classical physician. All had at one time or other, they acknowledged, +translated "Vivamus, mea Lesbia, atque amemus." The physician said he +had only satisfied himself with three lines, and yet he thought their +only merit was the being line for line. He repeated both the original +and his translation:-- + + "Soles occidere et redire possunt: + Nobis, quum semel occidit brevis lux, + Nox est perpetua una dormienda. + + "Suns die, but soon their light restore, + While we, when our brief day is o'er, + Sleep one long night to wake no more." + +The Curate, with the jealousy of a rival translator, objected to "suns +_die_," and thought "suns _set_" would be quite as well and a closer +translation. The Physician assented. The Bishop smiled, and said, "suns +_die_" was probably a professional lapsus. The Physician replied, that +such would be a very unprofessional lapsus; and Gratian quoted the +passage from Fielding, who says it is an unjust misrepresentation that +"physicians are the friends of death," and instanced the two physicians +who, in the case of the death of Captain Blifil, "dismissed the corpse +with a single fee, but were not so disgusted with the living patient." +At parting, the Bishop took the Curate most kindly by the hand, and +recommended him by all means to cultivate the amiability of +versification. + +After this, Gratian and the Curate had much business in hand, and we did +not meet for some time. Gratian stirred a little in this affair of the +Curate's, and with effect. We did meet, however, and recommenced the + + +HORÆ CATULLIANÆ. + +You now see us again in the library--time, after tea. Gratian enjoys his +easy-chair; a small fire--for it is not cold--just musically whispers +among the coals, comfort. Gratian says he has had a busy day of it, and, +though not wearied, is in that happy state of repose to enjoy rest, and +of excitement to enjoy social converse; and after a little, preliminary +chat, asked if there was any thing lately from Catullus. + +AQUILIUS.--Yes. He is returned from his unprofitable travel, and you +seem to be in that state of sensitive quiescence, to feel with him the +pleasures of home. He is now at his own villa, and thus welcomes, and +acknowledges the welcome offered him by his beloved Sirmio. + + AD SIRMIONEM PENINSULAM. + + My Sirmio, thou the very gem and eye + Of islands and peninsulas, that lie + In that two-fold dominion Neptune takes + Of the salt sea and sweet translucent lakes! + Oh! with what joy I visit thee again, + Scarce yet believing, how, left far behind, + The tedious Thynian and Bithynian plain, + I see thee, Sirmio, with this peaceful mind. + Oh, what a blessed thing is the sweet quiet, + When the tired heart lays down its load of care, + And after foreign toil and sickening riot, + Weary and worn, to feel at last we are + At our own home--and our own floor to tread, + And lie in peace on the long-wish'd-for bed! + This, this alone, repays all labours past. + Hail to thee, lovely Sirmio! gladly take + Thine own, own master home to thee at last: + And all ye sportive waters of my lake, + Laugh out your welcome to my cheerful voice, + And all that laughs at home, with me rejoice. + +GRATIAN.--I well remember this singularly sweet, kind, affectionate +address. It is the best version of "Home is home, be it ever so homely," +I know. You have needlessly repeated _own_. Why not say, loved master? + +CURATE.--Don't you think the _acquiescimus lecto_ would be better +rendered "sink to rest?" I fancy the Latin expresses the sinking down of +the wearied limbs, or rather, whole person, into the soft and deep +feather bed. + +AQUILIUS.--I Set it down so, but altered it, thinking the "lie in peace" +was in reality more quiescent than any thing expressing an act--as +sinking is a process _in transitu_--the result, lying in peace. It has +often been translated, among others, by Leigh Hunt, and that prince of +translators, Elton--though I think I was not satisfied with his +translation of the Sirmio--of the others I do not remember a word. + +CURATE.--Leigh Hunt overdid his work--there is more labour than ease in +the line + + "The loosened limbs o'er all the wished-for bed." + +Not simple enough for Catullus; neither is this--a rather affected +line-- + + "Laughs every dimple in the cheek of home." + +GRATIAN.--No, that won't do--it is a conceit. One would imagine it +borrowed or translated from some Italian poet. + +AQUILIUS.--The "loosened limbs o'er all the wished-for bed," strikes me +as rather of the ludicrous, and not unlike the description of himself by +Berni in his fanciful palace, where he ordered a bed, adjoining that of +the French cook's, which was to be large enough to swim in--"Come si fa +nel mare." + +GRATIAN.--Now then, Mr Curate, let us have your version. + +CURATE. + + TO THE PENINSULA OF SIRMIO. + + All hail to thee, delightful Sirmio! + Of all peninsulas and isles the gem, + Which lake or sea in its fair breast doth show + With either Neptune's arms encircling them. + What joy to find that Thynia, and that plain + Bithynian gone, and see thee safe again! + Charming it is to rest from care and cumber, + When the mind throws its burden, and we come + Wearied with pains of foreign travel home, + And in the bed so longed for sink to slumber. + This pays for all the toil, this quiet after-- + Joy, my sweet Sirmio, for thy master's sake, + Make merry, frolic wavelets of my lake-- + Laugh on me, all ye stores of home-bred laughter. + +GRATIAN.--I don't like "the mind _throws_ its burden:" lays it down is +better--there is more weariness in it. You must alter that expression, +or we see the mind like the "iniquæ mentis ascellus," dropping back its +ears, and _throwing_ its not agreeable and easy-sitting rider. Why not-- + + "When the mind lays its burden down, to come?" + +But I see you have both of you translated away from the Latin the _Lydiæ +undæ_. How comes it so? + +AQUILIUS.--The reasons given for the word meaning Lydian seem to be +insufficient; because it is said the Benacus resembles the Lydian rivers +Hermus and Pactolus in having gold; or because the Benacus was in the +district of the Thusci, who came from the Lydians. I adopted a +conjecture once thrown out--and I think it was by the most accomplished +scholar, W. S. Landor, that _Lydiæ_ is the adjective of the word +_Ludius--ludiæ undæ_, or _Lydiæ undæ_, the same thing, for that ludius +is, as the dictionary tells us, "a Lydis, qui erant optimi saltatores." +If so, _Lydiæ_ would mean the sportive, or "dancing waters of the lake." + +CURATE.--I took this hint from Aquilius, though I do not remember from +whom the suggestion came. I would venture from the last line-- + + "Ridete quidquid est domi cachinnorum--" + +a remark upon a passage, the celebrated expression in the _Prometheus_ +of Æschylus, the [Greek: anêrithmon gelasma]. Some call it "countless +dimples." Now is it not possible Catullus may have thought of this, and +as it were translated it by _quidquid est cachinnorum_? The question +then would be, is it meant to speak to the ear or the eye? Is it of +sound or vision? I am inclined to think it is the sound, the +communicative laughter of the many waves. "Dimple" is too little for the +gigantic conception of Æschylus, but the laughter of the multitudinous +ocean-waves is more after his genius. No one could translate _cachinnus_ +"a dimple." If, therefore, Catullus had in his mind the Greek passage, +it shows his idea of the [Greek: anêrithmon gelasma]. + +GRATIAN.--I have often admired how that can be _very_ beautiful which is +of uncertain meaning. Is it that either construction conveys distinct +thought--clear idea? I confess, I prefer the sound. What comes next? + +CURATE.--Missing one or two, we take up his "Request to his friend +Cæcilius to come to him to Verona"--who, it seems, was a native of that +place, and fellow townsman, as well as most dear friend of Catullus. + +AQUILIUS.--Both poets--both kind-hearted; in fact, "The two gentlemen of +Verona." + +GRATIAN.--Well, that is saying something for Latin poets. Let us have +your version, Curate. + +CURATE. + + INVITATION TO CÆCILIUS. + + Papyrus, to Cæcilius tell + (A touching bard, my friend as well) + That to Verona he must come, + Where his Catullus is at home, + And new-built Comu's walls forsake, + And that sweet shore of Laris Lake. + A friend of mine and his has brought + To light some passages of thought, + Which he must hear. So if he will + Be thriving and improving still, + His speed will swallow up the distance, + Although with amorous resistance, + And both arms clinging round his neck, + That lovely maid his progress check, + With lips a thousand times that say + "Oh, do not, do not go away!" + I mean that maid who, Fame--not I-- + Asserts for love of him would die; + For fire consumes her heart and head, + Since first the opening lines she read + Of Cybele the God's great queen. + Maid, learned as the Sapphic muse, + I cannot sympathy refuse; + For not amiss (the book I've seen) + Begins the tale, "The Mighty Queen." + +AQUILIUS.--I protest against "so if he will be thriving and improving +still." That is the Curate's interpolation. The fact is, he must have +rhymed a passage from his last sermon; and it has somehow or other +slipped into his Catullus. + +CURATE.--No authority! What, then, is meant by "Quare si sapiet?" + +AQUILIUS.--Simply, if he would know the secret--the "cogitationes." + +GRATIAN.--I am inclined to agree with you. Now, Aquilius, we will listen +to your version. + + AQUILIUS. + + Hasten, papyrus! greet you well + That tender poet, my sweet friend + Cæcilius--speedily I send, + As speedily my message tell: + That he should for Verona make + All haste--and quit his Larian Lake, + And Novum Comum--for I would + Some certain thoughts he understood + And purposes, that now possess + A friend of mine; and his no less. + And if he takes me rightly, say + His coming will devour the way, + Though that fair girl should bid him stay, + And round his neck her arms should throw, + And cry, Oh, do not, do not go!-- + That girl, who, if the truth be told, + E'en in her heart of hearts doth hold + And cherish such sweet love--since he + First read to her of Cybele, + "Great Queen of Dindymus" the tale + Begun. Oh, then she did inhale + The living breath of love, whose heat + Into her very life doth eat. + Thy passion I can well excuse, + Fair maid! more learn'd than the tenth muse, + The Lesbian maid--nor couldst thou fail + To find for love an ample plea, + In that so nobly open'd tale + Of the great Goddess Cybele. + +CURATE.--What's all this?--the "tenth muse!" where is she in the Latin? + +AQUILIUS.--_Sapphicâ musâ_, Doctor. That is Sappho, is it not? and pray +was Sappho one of the _nine_ muses? No; then of course she was the +_tenth_--and was not she "the Lesbian maid?" + +CURATE.--Well, I admit it--you have vindicated your muse fairly, and I +will not pronounce against her, though tempted by an apt quotation from +the mouth of Bacchus, in the _Frogs_ of Aristophanes. + + "[Greek: Autê poth ê Mouo ouk elesbiazen ou]." + +For your muse is certainly a Lesbian; but you have omitted "misellæ," +which shows that the passion was not returned. + +GRATIAN.--I don't see that; for she throws her arms about his neck. But +neither of you have well spoken the "millies euntem revocet," the +calling him back after departure, and that is very good too. I see the +note upon _Sapphicâ Musâ_, speaks of various interpretations to the +passage; but adopts this--that the maiden loving Cæcilius has more sense +(is that _doctior_? I doubt) than Sappho, who loved a youth too stupid +ever to write a line; but this maid did not love till she had read the +commencement of his poem. I don't see the necessity for thinking the +passion hopeless either, because of the comparison with Sappho. Few +Roman maidens took the Leucadian leap. + +CURATE.--It is very odd, and might first appear a mark of their good +manners--that the Romans never mention "old maids." I fear there was +another cause. I suppose the omission may be accounted for by the state +of society, which was not favourable to their existence at all; for then +a man could put away his wife at any moment, and for any plea, most +women must have managed to get a husband for a long or a short time. + +AQUILIUS.--The only ancient old maids were the Fates and Furies--of the +latter, the burden of the song was-- + + "Oh no, we never mention them, + Their names are never heard!" + +GRATIAN.--Come back to your duty: we are wandering, and leaving Catullus +behind. What are we to have now? + +AQUILIUS.--An attack upon one Egnatius, who, having white teeth, took +care to show them upon all occasions. He was not, however, celebrated +for his tooth-powder. He is a fair mark for the wit of our author. The +arrow of his satire was occasionally keen enough and free to fly. + + IN EGNATIUM. + + Egnatius's teeth are very white, + And therefore is he ever grinning: + Let pleaders in the court excite + All hearts to weep--from the beginning + E'en to the end he laughs. The while + The mother on the funeral bier, + Sheds o'er her only son the tear, + Alone Egnatius seems to smile, + Then opes his mouth from ear to ear: + Where'er he is, whatever doing, + He laughs and grins. The thing in fact is + A tasteless, foolish, silly practice, + Egnatius, and well worth eschewing. + Spare all this risible exertion, + And were you Roman or Tiburtian, + Sabine, Lanuvian, fat Etruscan, + Or porcine Umbrian with rare show + Of tusks--columnar--order Tuscan: + Or born the other side the Po,} + (And my compatriot, therefore know,)} + Where folk are civilised I trow,} + And wash their teeth with water cleanly-- + Pure water such as folk might quaff-- + I would entreat you still--don't laugh. + You look so sillily, so meanly, + As if you were but witted half. + Yet being but a Celtiberian, + Holding the custom of your nation, + Using that lotion called Hesperian; + The more you grin, folk say, forsooth, + What pity 'tis the whitest tooth + Should have the foulest application! + +CURATE.--I did not translate--and our host will think one translation +quite enough. + +GRATIAN.--Go on then to the next. What are we to have? + +CURATE.--His address to his farm. Authors were happy in those days to +have their landed estate. Horace always speaks of his with delight; so +does Catullus, as we have seen, of his Sirmio. This farm was, it should +seem, like Horace's, among the Sabine hills. + + TO MY FARM. + + My farm! which those who wish to please + Thy master's heart, Tiburtian call; + But they who call thee Sabine, these + Respect his feelings not at all: + And wishing more to tease and fret, + Will wager thou art Sabine yet-- + How well it pleased me to retreat + To thy suburban country-seat; + Where I sent summarily off + That plaguy pulmonary cough; + Which, half-deserved, my stomach gave + Just for a hint no more to crave + Luxurious living. I had hoped + With a good dinner to have coped + At Sextius' table; when he read + A poisonous speech might strike one dead, + All gall and venom, to refute + One Attius in a certain suit. + Since when, a cold cough and catarrh + Against my battered frame made war; + Until I came in thee to settle, + And cured it with repose and nettle. + So, now I'm well, I thank thee, farm! + And that I got so little harm, + From such great fault. I may be pardon'd + If to this pitch my heart is harden'd: + To pray, when Sextius reads again + Things so abhorr'd of gods and men, + That that my cough and cold catarrh + Not mine but Sextius' health might mar-- + Who never sends me invitation + But for such wretched recitation. + +GRATIAN.--A charitable wish this of our good Catullus! But these +heathens knew little of "do as you would be done by." One of the neatest +wishes of this kind is in a Greek epigram. I can't remember word for +word the Greek, so I give the translation:--"Castor and Pollux, who +dwell in beauteous Lacedemon, by the sweet-flowing river Eurotas, if +ever I wish evil to my friend, may it light upon me; but if ever he +wishes evil to me, may he have twice as much." + +AQUILIUS.--In a note on _villæ_, I see the derivation of that word +given, _quasi vehilla_, because there the fruits of the farm were +carried; so that the original idea of a villa was quite another thing +from the modern suburban construction. Architects, when they call these +suburban edifices villas, might as well remember how inappropriate is +the term. But here you have my version of this address to his farm:-- + + AD FUNDUM. + + My Farm, or Sabine or Tiburtian, + (What name I care not we confab in, + Though they who hold me in aversion, + Persist and wager you are Sabine,) + + In your suburban sweet recesses + Of that vile cough I timely rid me, + Merited well, for those excesses + My stomach failed not to forbid me, + + When I with Sextius was convivial, + Who feasting read me his invective, + Vilest, 'gainst Attius his rival, + All venom--and, alas! effective. + + For surely 'twas that poison seized me, + A chill--a heat--a cough then shook me + E'en to my vitals--and so teazed me, + That to thy bosom I betook me. + + Thanks, my good farm! my fault you pardon'd, + And not revenged. We've much to settle + On score of thanks: my chest you harden'd, + And healed with basil-root and nettle. + + But from henceforth, if I such vicious + Invectives read, though Sextius pen 'em, + Who but invites me with malicious + Intent to kill me with their venom-- + + If e'er I yield to his endeavour, + Expose me to his scrip infectious-- + I call down ague, cold, and fever, + Oh! fall ye not on me,--but Sextius. + +GRATIAN.--I see the next is that one which has been not unfrequently +translated and imitated. Is there not one by Cowley,--if I remember, +much lengthened? + +AQUILIUS.--It can scarcely be called a translation. The Latin measure is +certainly here very sweet and tender. + + DE ACME ET SEPTIMIO. + + Septimius, to his bosom pressing + His Acme, said, "I love thee, Acme-- + All my life-long will love thee, Acme! + Nor day shall come to love thee less in. + Or should it come, like common lover, + In such poor love I love thee only; + May Libyan lion dun discover, + Or torrid India's beast attack me, + Wandering forlorn from thee, and lonely + On desert shore."-- + He said: Love, as before, + Upon the left hand aptly sneezed. + The omen showed that he was pleased + To give his blessing. + + Then gentle Acme, softly turning + Upon the breast of her Septimius, + And unto his her face upraising, + And looking in his eyes so burning, + As if inebriate with gazing; + With that her rich red mouth she kissed them, + And said,--"My love, dear, dear Septimius! + Oh, let us serve our master duly-- + Our master Love, as now caressing; + For never yet have Love so blessed them + As now my thoughts he blesseth truly, + Even to my heart of hearts, Septimius, + The inmost core." + She said: and, as before, + Love on the left hand aptly sneezed. + The omen showed that he was pleased + To give his blessing. + + They loved--were loved: this sweet beginning + Omen'd their future bright condition. + Offer all Asia to Septimius-- + Add Britain--put in competition + With Acme--wretchedly abstemious + They'd call him of your gifts, Ambition. + The only province worth his winning + Is Acme: Acme's faithful bosom + Knows nought on earth but her Septimius. + Ripe was the fruit, as fair the blossom + Of this their mutual love, and glowing; + And all admired its freshness growing. + Was never pair so fond and loving! + And Venus' self looked on approving. + +CURATE.--Are you correct in your translation "Love, as before?" Is it +not that, as before he sneezed on the left, now he sneezes on the right +hand,--_was_ unfavourable--_is_ now propitious? + +GRATIAN.--I see in the note that the passage bears either construction. +There is also authority given; for what to us is the left hand, to the +gods is the right. Now, Curate, for your Acme and Septimius. + +CURATE.-- + + OF SEPTIMIUS AND ACME. + + Acme to Septimius' breast, + Darling of his heart, was prest-- + "Acme mine!" then said the youth, + "If I love thee not in truth, + If I shall not love thee ever + As a lover doated never, + May I in some lonely place, + Scorch'd by Ind's or Libya's sun, + Meet a lion's tawny face; + All defenceless, one to one."-- + Love, who heard it in his flight, + To the truth his witness bore, + Sneezing quickly to the right-- + (To the left he sneezed before.) + + Acme then her head reflecting, + Kiss'd her sweet youth's ebriate eyes, + With her rosy lips connecting + Looks that glistened with replies. + "Thus, my life, my Septimillus! + Serve we Love, our only master: + One warm love-flood seems to thrill us, + Throbs it not in me the faster?"-- + Love, who heard it in his flight, + To the truth his witness bore, + Sneezing quickly to the right-- + (To the left he sneezed before.) + + Thus with omens all-approving, + Each and both are loved and loving. + Poor Septimius with his Acme, + Cares not to whose lot may fall + Syria's glory--wealthy province!-- + Or both Britains great and small. + Acme, faithful and unfeigning, + Gives, creates, enjoys all pleasure, + With her dear Septimius reigning.-- + Oh! was ever earthly treasure + Greater to man's lot pertaining? + Blessed pair!--thus, without measure, + Venus' choicest gifts attaining. + +GRATIAN.--You have a little run riot, good Master Curate; and run out of +your rhyming course too, I see--for you don't mean "province" to rhyme +to "Acme."--I see the next is, On Approach of Spring--with that +beautiful line, "Jam ver egelidos refert tepores." I wish to see how you +would have translated that refreshing and cool warmth of +expression--almost a contradiction in terms--the season when we inhale +the heavenly air with the chill off--like hot tea thrown into a glass of +spring-cold water, and drank off immediately. + +AQUILIUS.--I gave it up in despair, and the Curate too has omitted it. +There are two other perhaps untranslatable lines in this short piece:-- + + "Jam mens prætrepidans avet vagari; + Jam læti studio pedes vigescunt." + +After two other little pieces, we come to a few lines to no less a +personage than Marcus Tullius Cicero, who had probably in some cause +gratuitously assisted the poet with his eloquence; for to sue _in formâ +poetæ_, was, perhaps, pretty much the same as in _formâ pauperis_. It +seems that "omnium patronus" was a flattering title on other occasions, +and by other persons bestowed upon Cicero, as well as by our poet here. +One would almost think the orator had served the poet an ill turn, and +that this superlative praise was but irony; for he not only calls +Tullius the most eloquent of men, but as much the best of patrons, as +he, Catullus, is the worst of poets. This surely must be a mock +humility. Is it a satire in disguise, and meaning the reverse? After +this, follows a little piece to his friend Cornellus Licinius Calvus, +with whom he had passed a pleasant and too exciting day--but let him +tell his own story. Shall I repeat? + + AD LICINIUM. + + My dear Licinius, yesterday + We sported in our pleasant way; + Tablets in hand--and at our leisure, + In verse as various as the measure, + Scribbling between our wine and laughter. + But when we parted, mark the after + Vexation;--conquered, and hard hit + By your all-overpowering wit, + I could not eat--nor yet would Sleep + His softly-soothing fingers keep + Upon my weary lids: all night} + I toss'd, I turned from left to right} + Impatient for the morning light,} + That I might talk with you, and be + Again in your society. + But when my limbs, as 'twere half dead, + Were lying on my restless bed, + I made these lines--which, my good friend, + That you may know my pains, I send. + Now, though so free, so bold to dare, + So apt to scoff--good sir, beware + Lest with the eye of your disdain + You view these lines, my vow, my pain. + Beware of Nemesis, beware!-- + For Vengeance, should I cry aloud-- + She hears--and punishes the proud. + +GRATIAN.--Those last lines are very grave: are they not too much so for +the intended play of this mock anger? Let us have your version, Master +Curate. + +CURATE.--I am sure you think one version quite enough. I did not +translate it; and believe we must now turn over many pages, and then I +have little more to offer. + +GRATIAN.--(Turning over the leaves of Catullus.) Here I see is that +beautiful passage in his "Carmen Nuptiale." + + "Ut flos in septis secretus nascitur hortis." + +AQUILIUS.--Which did not escape the tasteful, though bold Ariosto. I +have made a weak attempt to translate the passage; and as it stands in +the middle of a long piece, I have taken it out as a sonnet. I will read +it:-- + + UT FLOS IN SEPTIS, &C. + + As in enclosure of chaste garden ground, + The floweret grows--where nor unseemly tread + Of flocks or ploughshares bruise its tender head-- + There soft airs soothe it with their gentle sound; + Suns give it strength, and nurturing showers abound, + And raise its tall stem from its sheltered bed; + And many a youth and maiden, passion-led, + With longing eyes admiring walk around: + Pluck'd from the stem that its pure grace supplied, + Nor youths nor maidens love it as before. + So the sweet maiden, in the queenly pride + Of her chaste beauty, many hearts adore; + But that her virgin charter laid aside, + Who lov'd, who cherish'd, cherish, love no more. + +CURATE.--I remember Ariosto's translation--for translation it is; and +though you know it, I will repeat it, and, by Gratian's favour, let it +pass for my version. For once, borrowed plumes,--and I shall not be the +worse bird--though birds of richer plumage have no song. + + "La verginella è simile alla rosa, + Chi'n bel giardin su la nativa spina, + Mentre sola, e sicura si riposa, + Ne gregge, ne pastor sele avvicina; + L'aura soave, e l'alba rugidosa + L'acqua, la terra al suo favor s'inch a: + Giovani vaghi, e donne innamorate, + Amano averne e seni, e tempre ornate. + Ma non si tosto dal materno stelo, + Remossa viene, e dal suo ceppo verde, + Che, quanto avea dagli uomini, e dal cielo, + Favor, grazia, ebellezza, tutto perde." + +GRATIAN.--Let us examine the alterations made by one genius, in +transferring to his own language the ideas of another genius of another +country. Catullus says "the floweret,"--_flosculus_: Ariosto +particularises the rose,--the _bel giardin_, "the beautiful garden," +stands for _septis in hortis_, the enclosed. Then he has given the idea +of _secretus_, which is certainly "separated," "set apart," by the words +_sola e sicura_, "alone and safe"--is it so good? but he gives that a +grace, a beauty, the original perhaps has not, _riposa_--the floweret +enjoys its secret repose. The cutting down the flower by the plough was +unnecessary, after telling us of the enclosure; we scarcely like to be +brought suddenly into the ploughed field. Here Ariosto is better--"nor +shepherd nor flock come near it." That enough confirms the idea of its +being fenced off, and they wander in their idleness, or, but for the +fence, might have reached it; the plough and the team are a heavy +apparatus, and would be a most unexpected intrusion,--so I like the +Italian here better. Then, _su la nativa spina_ is good: you see the +beautiful creature on its native stem or thorn. Then for the enumeration +of the airs, the sun, and the shower, the Italian, in his beautiful +language, softens the very air, and gives it a sweetness, _l'aura +soave_, and ushers in "the dewy morn:" then, expanding to the glory of +the full reverence of nature to this emblem of purity, he makes all bend +and bow before it, as before the very queen of the earth. Here he +surpasses his original. Then he gives you the object of the wishes of +the youths and maidens, the _multi pueri multæ optaveræ puellæ_. They +desire to place it in their bosoms or round their temples: and is not +the lovingness of the youths and maidens a good addition? The _giovani +vaghi e donne innamorate_. Both are admirable--but I incline to Ariosto. + +AQUILIUS.--And do you think the Latin poet the original? You forget how +little originality the Latin authors can claim. This of Catullus is a +translation--a free one, it is true--of perhaps a still more beautiful +passage in Euripides. Reach the book: you will find it in that very +singular play the Hippolytus. Ay, here it is. He offers the garland to +the virgin goddess Artemis--(line 73) + + [Greek: + "Soi tonde plekton stephanon ex akêratou + Leimônos, ô despoina, kosmêsas pherô, + Enth' oute poimên axioi pherbein bota + Out' êlthe pô sidêros, all' akêraton + Melissa leimôn' êrinon dierchetai + Aidôs de potamiaisi kêpeuei drosois. + Hosois didakton mêden, all' en tê physei + To sôphronein eilêchen es ta panth' homôs, + Toutos drepesthai; tois kakoisi, d' ou themis."] + +"I bring thee, O mistress, this woven crown, beautifully made up of +flowers of the pure untouched meadow--where never shepherd thinks it +fitting to feed his flock, nor the sickle comes; but the bee ever passes +over the pure meadow breathing of spring, and modesty waters it as a +garden with the river-dews. To them who have, untaught, in their nature +the gift of chastity, to these only it is at all times an allowed +sanctity to cut these flowers, but not to the evil-minded." + +You cannot doubt that the passage in Catullus is taken from the +Greek--which is of a higher sentiment in the conclusion, and is enriched +beyond the Latin by the bee, and above all by the personification of +Modesty tending and watering the garden, or rather these especial +flowers, with the river-dews. + +CURATE.--How far more pure is the sentiment, and more quiet the imagery, +in the Greek! The Greeks were the great originators of glorious thought +and beautiful diction. + +GRATIAN.--Let us now to Catullus. What have we next? + +AQUILIUS.--Here is a tender little piece, to his friend Ortalus. I see +it has an omission: this edition does not supply it; I only take what I +see. It seems Ortalus had requested him to send him his translation from +Callimachus, the "Coma Berenices," which for some time, through grief +for the death of his brother, he had failed to do. He now sends the +poem. + + + AD ORTALUM. + + Though care, that unto me sore grief hath brought, + Calls me from converse with the sacred Nine, + Nor can my heart incline + To bring to any end inspired thought;-- + + (For now the wave of the Lethæan lake, + How recent hath it bathed in Death's dark vale + A brother's feet so pale; + And I can only sorrow for his sake. + + The Trojan land on the Rhoetean shore + Hath hidden him for ever from these eyes,-- + And I with glad surprise, + And brother's love, shall welcome thee no more. + + Loved more than life, dear brother! what can I + But love thee still, and mourn for thee full long + In a funereal song, + In secret to assuage my grief thereby? + + As amid many boughs all leaf-array'd + The Danlian bird, the nightingale, out-poured, + When Itys she deplored, + Her mellow sorrows in the thickest shade:) + + Yet, Ortalus, 'mid tears that flow so fast, + The work of your Battiades I send, + Lest you should deem, dear friend, + Your wishes to the winds are idly cast, + + And from my mind escaped, all unaware, + As falls the fruit, love's furtive gift, unbid, + In virgin bosom hid, + When she, forgetful of its lying there, + + Would suddenly arise, and run to greet + The coming of her mother, from her vest + And her now loosen'd breast, + The shameless apple rolls before her feet. + + And she, poor maid! abashed, and in the hush + Of shame, before her mother cannot speak, + While all her virgin cheek + Betrays her secret in the conscious blush. + +CURATE.--It is very tender--the last image is delicately beautiful. I +did not translate it. + +GRATIAN.--Pretty as the passage of the maiden's disaster in dropping the +lover's gift--and that, too, be it observed, in the hurry of her +tenderness, which increases the beauty, or rather accomplishes it--yet +is it not abrupt in a piece where there is the expression of so much +grief? Catullus was an affectionate man, more especially affectionate +brother; on other occasions, if I remember rightly, he deplores this +brother's loss. Now, Master Curate, what do you offer us? + +CURATE.--Not now a verse translation, but an observation on a little +piece of raillery, in which Catullus quizzes one Arrius for his +aspirating; and, I mean it not as a pun, exasperating, though it should +seem that his friends were not a little exasperated at his bad +pronunciation. Do we inherit from the Romans this, our (Cockneyism, I +was going to say, but it is too general to allow of such a limit,) +vulgarity of speech? "Where," says Catullus, "Arrius meant to say +commoda, he uttered it as c_h_ommoda, and _h_insidias for insidias, and +never thought he spoke remarkably well unless he laid great stress upon +the aspirate, calling it with emphasis _h_insidias. I believe his +mother, his uncle, his maternal grandfather and grandmother all spoke in +the same way. When the man went into Syria, all ears had a little rest, +and heard those words pronounced without this emphatic aspirate, and +began to entertain no fears respecting the use of the words; when on a +sudden they hear--that after Arrius had gone thither, the Ionian seas +were no longer Ionian, but Hionian." This is curious. As the Romans had +possession here more than four hundred years, did they leave us this +legacy? + +AQUILIUS--I will, then, give you versions of the two which immediately +follow. + + DE AMORE SUO. + + I love and hate. You ask me how 'tis so. + Small is the reason which I have to show: + I feel it to my cost--'tis all I know. + +Then follows a compliment, by comparison, to his Lesbia. + + DE QUINTIA ET LESBIA. + + Many think Quintia beautiful: she's tall, + And fair, and straight. I know, I grant it all, + When each particular beauty I recall; + + But I deny--when these are uncombined + To form a whole of beauty--and I find + So large a person with so small a mind. + + But Lesbia's perfect person is all soul, + Compact in beauty--as if grace she stole + From all the rest, and made herself one perfect whole. + +CURATE.--This is compliment enough as far as comparison goes--but he +pays her a much greater shortly after: for he loves her in their +greatest quarrels. + + OF LESBIA. + + "Lesbia mi dicit semper male." + + Lesbia's always speaking ill + Of me--her tongue is never still: + Yet may I die, but 'gainst her will, + She loves me, spite of her detraction. + + Why think I so? Because I blame + Her ways, abuse her just the same: + Yet howsoe'er I name her name, + I still love Lesbia to distraction. + +GRATIAN.--Perhaps the constancy was more to the credit of Lesbia than +Catullus. Now then, Aquilius. + +AQUILIUS.-- + + DE LESBIA. + + Lesbia speaketh ill of me + Ever--nought it moves me: + Say she what she will of me, + Yet I know she loves me. + + Why? Because in words of hate, + I am far before her; + Yet no jot of love abate, + Rather I adore her. + +CURATE.--I don't like "I am far before her." We say, "I am not behind" +in hate or love--I doubt "before." + +AQUILIUS.--Easily mended--thus then,-- + + Why? Because in words of hate + I go far beyond her, + Yet no jot of love abate-- + But still grow the fonder. + +GRATIAN.--Probatum est. + +AQUILIUS.--The Curate is too quick upon me. We must go back: he has left +out "De Inconstantia Feminei Amoris." + +CURATE.--True. Here is my version. Not being a happy subject, I passed +over it. + + OF WOMAN'S INCONSTANCY. + + My pretty she will none but me + For husband, though were Jove, her wooer. + So tells she me: but what a she + Says to her lover and pursuer, + Might well be written on the wind, + Or stream that leaves no track behind. + +AQUILIUS.--I object to "pretty she," for _mulier_. I think, however, +that _mulier_ here is a word of contempt. I make it out thus: + + DE INCONSTANTIA FEMINEI AMORIS. + + She says--the woman says--she none would wed + But me, though Jove came suitor to her bed; + She says--but, oh! what woman says--so fair, + And smooth to doting man, is writ on air, + And on the running stream that changeth every where. + +AQUILIUS.--We have seen much of our friend Catullus as a loving poet, +let us end by showing him to have been a good hater. The following is no +bad specimen of his powers in this line:-- + + IN COMINIUM. + + If you, Cominius, old, defiled + With every vice, contemn'd, and hoary, + From your vile life were once exiled, + Your carcass beasts would mar--grim, wild. + Vultures that tongue, defamatory + Of all the gentle, good, and mild; + And with those eyes, that all detest, + Pluck'd from their hateful sockets gory, + Crows cram their maws, or feed their nest, + And hungry wolves devour the rest! + +It was now time, Eusebius, to conclude for the night, and, indeed, to +put our Catullus upon his shelf again. Before separating, we reminded +Gratian that he was the arbiter, and must make his award. "I remember +well," said he; "and you, Aquilius, made, I think, this my baculus the +staff of office. A good umpire might, not very improperly, give the +stick to you both, breaking it equally, "secundum artem baculinam." But +it is a good, useful staff to me; we have had some rubs together, and I +won't part with it. True, it has not unfrequently rubbed my pigs' backs, +and shall again. But _the_ pig Aquilius has made his acquaintance with, +has grunted out all his happy days; and, to do him all honour, I have +sacrificed him upon this occasion, to appease the manes of the Latin +poet in his anger at your bad translations. But for yourselves, I have +still something to award. My pig has two cheeks--there is one for each, +and you shall have them put before you at breakfast to-morrow morning; +and thus, I think, you will agree with me that I have duly countenanced +you both. And I hope my pig will have both sharpened your appetites and +your wit, 'sus Minervam.' Good-night! + + 'To-morrow to fresh fields and turnips new.'" + + +POSTSCRIPT. + +I here send you, Eusebius, the last of our Horæ Catullianæ, which has +been lying by a week or more. This little delay enables me to wind up +the Curate's affair to your satisfaction. Our friend Gratian gave +verbally the Bishop's reply to Mathew Miffins, who, seeing himself +deserted by his principal witness and informer, Prateapace, was not +sorry to veer round with the weather-cock, and was obsequiously civil. +It was characteristic of our friend Gratian, that he should settle it as +he did with that huckster. Going through, as it is called, the main +street, I saw him engaged with Miffins, in his shop, and went in. He was +talking somewhat familiarly with the man--of all subjects, on what do +you suppose?--on fishing. Gratian had been a great fisherman in his day, +as his rheumatic pains can now testify. As he afterwards told me, +fearing he might have given the Bishop's message rather sharply, and not +liking to pain the man, he turned off the subject, and talked of +fishing, to which he knew Miffins was addicted; and so it ended by +Gratian's obtaining his good-will for ever, for he sent him some choice +hackles. Prateapace and Gadabout have returned to the church, whereupon +the Rev. the cow-doctor has stirred up the wrath of the chapel by a very +strong discourse upon backsliding. A poor woman spoke of it as very +affecting, adding, "Some loves 'sons of consolation,' but I loves 'sons +of thunder.'" Doubtless there was lightning too; and there is of that +vivid kind which bewilders and leaves all darker than before. The Curate +_has_ found bouquets in the vestry and the desk, and has been in danger +of becoming "a popular." + +A subscription has actually been set on foot, by Nicholas Sandwell, at +the instigation, it is said, of certain ladies, and even encouraged by +Miffins, to purchase a coffee-pot and tea-spoons for the Curate; but an +event a few days ago has put an end to the affair, and given rather a +new turn to the parochial feelings. This event is of such moment, that I +ought, perhaps, to have told you of it at first--but I should have +spoiled my romance, my novel--and what is any writing without a tale in +it worth now-a-days? The Curate, then, is actually married--even since +the termination of the Horæ Catullianæ. + +Miss Lydia, ("alas, false man!" sighed some one,) of the family at +Ashford, is the happy bride. The Curate had unexpectedly come into a +very decent independence; and is, and will be for ever after, according +to the usual receipt, happy. + +Since this event, the bouquets have ceased to be laid in the vestry and +the desk. Lydia Prateapace has been heard to say she should not wonder +if all was true after all, and affects to be glad, for propriety's sake, +that they _are_ married. Gadabout runs every where repeating what +Prateapace said; and Brazenstare looks audacious indifference, and once +stared in the Curate's face and asked him how many Misses Lydia there +might be of his acquaintance. My dear Eusebius, + + "So goes the world, and such the Play of Life. + This loves to make, and t'other mends a strife; + Old fools write rhymes--the Curate takes a wife." + + Yours ever, AQUILIUS. + + + + +PROSPER MÉRIMÉE. + + +Rarely, in these days of profuse and unscrupulous scribbling, do we find +an author giving the essence, not a dilution, of his wit, learning, and +imagination, dispensing his mental stores with frugal caution, instead +of lavishing them with reckless prodigality. Such a one, when met with, +should be made much of, as a model for sinners in a contrary sense, and +as a bird of precious plumage. Of that feather is Monsieur Prosper +Mérimée. He plays with literature, rather than professes it; it is his +recreation, not his trade; at long intervals and for a brief space, he +turns from more serious pursuits to coquet with the Muse, not frankly to +embrace her. Willing though she be, he will not take her for a lawful +spouse and constant companion, but courts her _par amours_. The +offspring of these moments of dalliance are buxom and _debonair_, of +various but comely aspect. In two-and-twenty years he has written less +than the average annual produce of many of his literary countrymen. In +several paths of literature, he has essayed his steps and made good a +footing; in not one has he continuously persevered, but, although +cheered by applause, has quickly struck into another track, which, in +its turn, has been capriciously deserted. His "Studies of Roman history" +give him an honourable claim to the title of historian; his "Notes of +Archæological Rambles" are greatly esteemed; he has written plays; and +his prose fictions, whether middle-age romance or novel of modern +society, rank with the best of their class. He began his career with a +mystification. His first work greatly puzzled the critics. It professed +to be a translation of certain comedies, written by a Spanish actress, +whose fictitious biography was prefixed and signed by Joseph L'Estrange, +officer in the Swiss regiment of Watteville. This imaginary personage +had made acquaintance with Clara Gazul in garrison at Gibraltar. Nothing +was neglected that might perfect the delusion and give success to the +cheat; fragments of old Spanish authors were prefixed to each play, +showing familiarity with the literature of the country; the style, tone, +and allusions were thoroughly Spanish; and, through the French dress, +the Castilian idiom seemed here and there to peep forth, confirming the +notion of a translation. Clara was an Andalusian, half gipsy, half Moor, +skilled in guitars and castanets, saynetes and boleros. L'Estrange makes +her narrate her own origin. + +"'I was born,' she told us, 'under an orange-tree, by the roadside, not +far from Motril, in the kingdom of Granada. My mother was a +fortune-teller, and I followed her, or was carried on her back, till the +age of five years. Then she took me to the house of a canon of Granada, +the licentiate Gil Vargas, who received us with every sign of joy. +Salute your uncle, said my mother. I saluted him. She embraced me, and +departed. I have never seen her since.' And to stop our questions, Doña +Clara took her guitar and sang the gipsy song, _Cuando me pariò mi +madre, la gitana_." + +Biography and comedies were so skillfully got up, the deception was so +well combined, that the reviewers were put entirely on a wrong scent. +Two years later, M. Mérimée was guilty of another harmless literary +swindle, entitled La Guzla, a selection of Illyrian poems, said to be +collected in Bosnia, Dalmatia, &c., but whose real origin could be +traced no further than to his own imagination. Although the name was a +manifest anagram of Gazul, the public were gulled. The deceit was first +unmasked in Germany, we believe, by Goethe, to whom the secret had been +betrayed. Thenceforward the young author was content to publish under +his own name works of which he certainly had no reason to be ashamed. +One of the earliest of these was, "La Jacquerie"--a sort of long +melodrama, or series of scenes, illustrating feudal aggressions and +cruelties in France, and the consequent peasant revolts of the +fourteenth century. It shows much historical research and care in +collection of materials, is rich in references to the barbarous customs +and strange manners of the times, and, like the "Chronicle of Charles +IX.," another historical work of M. Mérimée's, has, we suspect, been +found very useful by more recent fabricators of romances. + +Educated for the bar, but not practising his profession, M. Mérimée was +one of the rising men of talent whom the July revolution pushed forward. +After being _chef de cabinet_ of the Minister of the Interior, Count +d'Argout, he held several appointments under government, amongst others, +that of Inspector of Historical Monuments, an office he still retains. +In 1844 he was elected to a chair in the French Academy, vacant by the +death of the accomplished Charles Nodier. He has busied himself much +with archæological researches, and the published results of his travels +in the west of France, Provence, Corsica, &c., are most learned and +valuable. In the intervals of his antiquarian investigations and +administrative labours, he has thrown off a number of tales and +sketches, most of which first saw the light in leading French +periodicals, and have since been collected and republished. They are all +remarkable for grace of style and tact in management of subject. One of +the longest, "Colomba," a tale of Corsican life, is better known in +England than its author's name. It has been translated with accuracy and +spirit, and lately has been further brought before the public, on the +boards of a minor theatre, distorted into a very indifferent melodrama. +The Corsican Vendetta has been taken as the basis of more than one +romantic story, but, handled by M. Mérimée, it has acquired new and +fascinating interest; and he has enriched his little romance with a +profusion of those small traits and artistical touches which exhibit the +character and peculiarities of a people better than folios of dry +description. "La Double Méprise," another of his longer tales, is a +clever _novelette_ of Parisian life. According to English notions its +subject is slippery, its main incident, and some of its minor details, +improbable and unpleasant, although so neatly managed that one is less +startled when reading them than shocked on after-reflection. It +certainly requires skilful management to give an air of probability to +such a scene as is detailed in chapter five. A French _gentleman_, a man +of fortune and family, mixing in good society, is anxious for an +appointment at court, and to obtain it he reckons much on the influence +and good word of a certain Duke of H----. There is a benefit night at +the Opera, and the young wife of the aspirant to court honours has a +box. Between the acts her husband, who has unwillingly accompanied her, +rambles about the house, and discovers the Duke in an inconvenient +corner, where he can see nothing. His grace is not alone, but in the +society of his kept-mistress. To propitiate his patron, the unscrupulous +husband introduces him and his companion into the box of his +unsuspecting wife! The sequel may be imagined; the stare and titter of +acquaintances, the supercilious gratitude of the Duke, the astonishment +of the lady at the singular tone of the pretty and elegantly dressed +woman with whom she is thus unexpectedly brought in contact, and whose +want of _usage_ bespeaks, as she imagines, the newly arrived provincial. +All this, which might pass muster in a novel depicting the manners and +morals of the Regency, is rather violent in one of our day; but yet, so +cleverly are the angles of improbability draped and softened down, the +reader perseveres. The plot is very slight; the tale scarcely depends on +it, but is what the French call a _tableau de moeurs_, with less +pretensions to the regular progress and catastrophe of a novel, than to +be a mirror of everyday scenes and actors on the bustling stage of Paris +life. The characters are well drawn, the dialogues witty and dramatic, +the book abounds in sly hits and smart satire; but its bitterness of +tone injured its popularity, and, unlike its author's other tales, it +met little success. The opening chapter is a picture of a lively +Parisian _ménage_, such as many doubtless exist; a striking example of a +_mariage de convenance_, or mis-match. + +"Six years had elapsed since the marriage of Julie de Chaverny, and +five years and six months, or thereabouts, since she had discovered that +it was impossible for her to love her husband, and very difficult to +esteem him. He was not a bad man, neither could he be called stupid, nor +even silly; she had once thought him agreeable; now she found him +intolerably wearisome. To her every thing about him was repulsive and +unpleasant. His most trifling actions, his way of eating, of taking +coffee, of talking, gave her umbrage and irritated her nerves. Except at +table, the pair scarcely saw or spoke to each other; but they dined +together several times a-week, and that sufficed to keep up the sort of +hatred Julie entertained towards her husband. + +"As to Chaverny, he was rather a handsome man, a little too corpulent +for his time of life, with a fresh complexion, full-blooded, and by no +means subject to those vague uneasinesses which sometimes torment +persons of more intellectual organisation. Piously convinced that his +wife's sentiments towards him were those of tender friendship, the +conviction caused him neither pleasure nor pain. Had he known Julie's +feelings to be of an opposite nature, it would have made little +difference to his happiness. He had served several years in a cavalry +regiment, when he inherited a considerable fortune, became disgusted +with garrison life, resigned his commission, and took a wife. It seems +difficult to explain the marriage of two persons who had not an idea in +common. On the one hand, a number of those officious friends and +relations, who, as Phrosine says, would marry the republic of Venice to +the Grand Turk, had taken much pains to arrange it: on the other, +Chaverny was of good family; before his marriage he was not too fat; he +was gay and cheerful, and what is called a _good fellow_. Julie was glad +to see him at her mother's house, because he made her laugh with +anecdotes of his regiment, droll enough, if not always in the best +taste. She found him amiable, because he danced with her at every ball, +and was always ready with excellent reasons to persuade her mother to +remain late at theatre or party, or at the _Bois de Boulogne_. Finally, +she thought him a hero, because he had fought two or three creditable +duels. But what completed his triumph, was the description of a certain +carriage, to be built after a plan of his own, and in which he was to +drive Julie, as soon as she consented to become Madame de Chaverny. + +"A few months of married life, and Chaverny's good qualities had lost +much of their merit. He no longer danced with his wife--that of course. +His funny stories had long been thrice told. He complained that balls +lasted too late; at the theatre he yawned; the custom of dressing for +the evening he found an insufferable bore. Laziness was his bane; had he +endeavoured to please, perhaps he would have succeeded, but the least +exertion or restraint was torture to him, as to most fat persons. He +found it irksome to go into society, because there the manner of one's +reception depends on the efforts one makes to please. A rude joviality +suited him better than refined amusements; to distinguish himself +amongst persons of a similar taste to his own, he had only to talk and +laugh louder than his companions--and that he did without trouble, for +his lungs were remarkably vigorous. He also prided himself on drinking +more champagne than most men could support, and on leaping his horse +over a four-foot wall in true sporting style. To these various +accomplishments he was indebted for the friendship and esteem of the +indefinable class of beings known as 'young men,' who swarm upon our +_boulevards_ towards eight in the evening. Shooting parties, country +excursions, races, bachelors' dinners and suppers, were his favourite +pastimes. Twenty times a-day he declared himself the happiest of +mortals; and when Julie heard the declaration, she cast her eyes to +heaven, and her little mouth assumed an expression of indescribable +contempt." + +We turn to another of M. Mérimée's books, in our opinion his best, an +historical romance, entitled 1572, a "Chronicle of the Reign of Charles +the Ninth." "In history," says the author in his preface, "I care only +for the anecdotes, and prefer those in which I fancy I discover a true +picture of the manners and characters of a particular period. This is +not a very elevated taste; but I own, to my shame, that I would +willingly give the whole of Thucydides for an authentic memoir of +Aspasia, or of one of Pericles' slaves. Memoirs, the familiar gossip of +an author with his reader, alone supply those individual portraits that +amuse and interest me. It is not from Mezerai, but from Montlue, +Brantôme, D'Aubigné, Tavannes, La Noue, &c., that one forms a just idea +of the French of the sixteenth century. From the style of those +contemporary authors, we learn as much as from the substance of their +narratives. In L'Estoile, for instance, I read the following concise +note. 'The demoiselle de Chateau-neuf, one of the king's _mignonnes_, +before he went to Poland, having espoused, _par amourettes_, the +Florentine Antinotti, officer of the galleys at Marseilles, and +detecting him in an intrigue, slew him stoutly with her own hand.' By +the help of this anecdote, and of similar ones, which abound in +Brantôme, I make up a character in my head, and resuscitate a lady of +Henry the Third's court." The "Chronicle" is the result of much reading +and combination of the kind here referred to; and M. Mérimée has even +been accused of adhering too closely to reality, to the detriment of the +poetical character of his romance. He does not make his heroes and +heroines sufficiently perfect, or his villains sufficiently atrocious, +to suit the palate of some critics, but depicts them as he finds +evidence of their having existed--their virtues obscured by the coarse +manners and loose morality, their crimes palliated by the religious +antipathies and stormy political passions of a semi-civilised age. He +declines judging the men of the sixteenth century according to the ideas +of the nineteenth. And, with regard to minor matters, he does not, like +some of his contemporaries, place in the mouth of a Huguenot leader, or +a _Guisarde_ countess, the tame and dainty phrase appropriate enough in +that of an equerry, or lady of the bed-chamber at the court of the +Citizen King. Eschewing conventionality, and following his own judgment, +and the guidance of the old chroniclers, in whose quaint records he +delights, he has written one of the best existing French historical +romances. + +It would have been easy for a less able writer than M. Mérimée to have +extended the "Chronique" to thrice its present length. It is not a +complete romance, but a desultory sketch of the events and manners of +the time, with a few imaginary personages introduced. Novel readers who +require a regular _denoûment_ will be disappointed at its conclusion. +There is not even a hint of a wedding from the first page to the last; +and the only lady who plays a prominent part in the story, a certain +countess Diane de Turgis, is little better than she should be. And yet, +if we follow M. Mérimée's rule, and judge her according to the ideas and +morals of the age she flourished in, she was rather an amiable and +proper sort of person. True, she sets her lovers by the ears, and feels +gratified when they cut each other's throats: she even challenges a +court dame, who has taken the precedence of her, to an encounter with +sword and dagger, _en chemise_, according to the prevailing mode amongst +the _raffinés_, or professed duellists of the time; and she writes +seductive billets-doux in Spanish, and gives wicked little suppers to +the handsome cavalier on whom her affections are set. But, on the other +hand, she goes to mass, and confesses, and does her best to save her +Huguenot lover's body and soul, and obtain the remission of her own sins +by converting him from his heresy. So that, as times went in the year +1572, she was to be reckoned amongst the righteous. The handsome +heretic, in whose present safety and future salvation she takes so +strong an interest, is one Bernard de Mergy, who has come to Paris to +take service with the great chief of his co-religionists, Admiral +Coligny. His brother, George de Mergy, has deserted the creed of Calvin, +and is consequently in high favour at the Louvre, but under the ban of +his father, a stern old Huguenot officer, who will not hear the name of +his renegade son. Bernard, whilst regretting his brother's apostasy, +does not deem it necessary to shun his society. On the road he has been +cajoled or robbed of his ready cash by a pretty gipsy girl, and his +good horse has been stolen by one of the hordes of German lanzknechts, +whom the recent civil war had brought to France. He reaches Paris with +an empty purse, and is not sorry to meet his brother, who welcomes him +kindly, and supplies his wants, but refuses to recant, and attempts to +justify his backsliding. In the course of his defence he gives an +insight into the prevalent corruption of the time, and shows how the +private vices of great political leaders often marred the fortunes of +their party. + +"'You were still at school,' said De Mergy, 'learning Latin and Greek, +when I first donned the cuirass, girded the Huguenot's white scarf, and +took share in our civil wars. Your little Prince of Condé, who has led +his party into so many errors, looked after your affairs when his +intrigues left him time. A lady loved me; the prince asked me to resign +her to him; I refused, and he became my mortal enemy. From that hour he +lost no opportunity of mortifying me. + + Ce petit prince si joli + Qui toujours baise sa mignonne, + +held me up to the fanatics of the party as a monster of libertinism and +irreligion. I had only one mistress; and as to the irreligion,--I let +others do as they like, why attack me?' + +"'I thought the prince incapable of such baseness,' said Bernard. + +"'He is dead,' replied his brother, 'and you have deified him. 'Tis the +way of the world. He had great qualities; he died like a brave man, and +I have forgiven him. But then he was powerful, and on the part of a poor +gentleman like myself, it was guilt to resist him. All the preachers and +hypocrites of the army set upon me, but I cared as little for their +abuse as for their sermons. At last one of the prince's gentlemen, to +curry favour with his master, called me libertine, before all our +captains. I struck him: we fought--and he was killed. At that time there +were a dozen duels a day in the army, and no notice taken. In my favour +an exception was made; I was fixed upon by the prince to serve as an +example. The entreaties of the other leaders, including the Admiral, +procured my pardon. But the prince's rancour was not yet appeased. At +the fight of Jazeneuil, I commanded a company: I had been foremost in +the skirmish; my cuirass battered and broken by bullets, my left arm +pierced by a lance, showed that I had not spared myself. I had only +twenty men left, and a battalion of the king's Swiss guards advanced +against us. The Prince of Condé ordered me to charge them; I asked for +two companies of _reitres_, and--he called me coward.' + +"Mergy rose and approached his brother with an expression of strong +interest. The Captain continued--his eyes flashing with anger at the +recollection of the insult:-- + +"'He called me coward before all those popinjays in gilt armour who +afterwards abandoned him on the battle-field of Jarnac. I resolved to +die, and rushed upon the Swiss--vowing, if I escaped with life, never +again to draw sword for that unjust prince. Grievously wounded, thrown +from my horse, one of the Duke of Anjou's gentlemen, Béville--the mad +fellow whom we dined with to-day--saved my life, and presented me to the +duke. He treated me well. I was eager for vengeance. They urged me to +take service under my benefactor, the Duke of Anjou; they quoted the +line-- + + Omne solum forti patria est, ut piscibus æquor. + +I was indignant to see the Protestants summoning foreigners to their +assistance. But why disguise the real motive that actuated me? I +thirsted for revenge, and became a Catholic, in hopes of meeting the +Prince of Condé in fair fight, and killing him. A coward forestalled me, +and the manner of the prince's death almost made me forget my hatred. I +saw his bloody corpse abandoned to the insults of the soldiery; I +rescued it from their hands, and covered it with my cloak. I was pledged +to the Catholics; I commanded a squadron of their cavalry; I could not +leave them. I have happily been able to render some service to my former +party; I have done my best to soften the fury of religious animosities, +and have been fortunate enough to save several of my friends.' + +"'Oliver de Basseville tells every body he owes you his life.' + +"'Behold me then a Catholic,' continued George, in a calmer voice. 'The +religion is as good as another: and then it is an easy and pleasant one. +See yonder pretty Madonna: 'tis the portrait of an Italian courtesan; +but the bigots praise my piety when I cross myself before it. My word +for it, I get on vastly better with Rome than Geneva. By making trifling +sacrifices to the opinions of the _canaille_, I live as I like. I must +go to mass--very good! I go there and stare at the pretty women. I must +have a confessor--_parbleu!_ I have one, a jolly Franciscan and +ex-dragoon, who for a crown-piece gives me a ticket of confession, and +delivers my billets-doux to his pretty penitents into the bargain. _Mort +de ma vie! Vive la messe!_' + +"Mergy could not restrain a smile. + +"'There is my breviary,' continued the Captain, throwing his brother a +richly-bound book, fastened with silver clasps, and enclosed in a velvet +case. 'Such a missal as that is well worth your prayer-books.' + +"Mergy read on the back of the volume, _Heures de la Cour_. + +"'The binding is handsome,' he said, disdainfully returning the book. + +"The Captain smiled, and opening it again handed it to him. Mergy then +read upon the first page: _La vie très-horrifique du grand Gargantua, +père de Pantagruel: composée par M. Alcofribas, abstracteur de +Quintessena._" + +Thus, in a single page, does M. Mérimée place before us a picture of the +times, with their mixture of fanaticism and irreligion, their shameless +political profligacy and private immorality. Bernard de Mergy cannot +prevail with his brother to return to the conventicle: so he accompanies +him to mass--not to pray, but hoping to obtain a glimpse of Madame de +Turgis, whom he has already seen masked in the street, and whose +graceful form and high reputation for beauty have made strong impression +on the imagination of this novice in court gallantries. On entering the +sacristy, they find the preacher, a jolly monk, surrounded by a dozen +young rakes, with whom he bandies jokes more witty than wise. + +"'Ah,' cried Béville, 'here is the Captain! Come, George, give us a +text. Father Lubin has promised to preach on any one we propose.' + +"'Yes,' said the monk; 'but make haste. _Mort de ma vie!_ I ought to be +in the pulpit already.' + +"'Peste! Father Lubin, you swear like the king,' cried the Captain. + +"I bet he would not swear in his sermon,' said Béville. + +"'Why not, if the fancy took me?' stoutly retorted the Franciscan. + +"'Ten pistoles you do not.' + +"'Ten pistoles? Done.' + +"'Béville,' cried the Captain, 'I go halves in your wager.' + +"'No, no!' replied his friend, 'I will not share the reverend's money; +and if he wins, by my faith! I shall not regret mine. An oath in pulpit +is well worth ten pistoles.' + +"'They are already won,' said Father Lubin; 'I begin my sermon with +three oaths. _Ah! Messieurs les Gentilhommes_, because you have rapier +on hip, and plume in hat, you would monopolise the talent of swearing. +We will see.' + +"He left the sacristy, and in an instant was in his pulpit. There was +silence in the church. The preacher scanned the crowded congregation as +though seeking his bettor; and when he discovered him leaning against a +column exactly opposite the pulpit, he knit his brows, put his arms +akimbo, and in an angry tone thus began: + +"'My dear Brethren, + +"_'Par la vertu!--par la mort!--par le sang!'_-- + +"A murmur of surprise and indignation interrupted the preacher, or, it +were more correctly said, filled up the pause he intentionally left. + +"---- 'de Dieu,' continued the Franciscan, in a devout nasal whine, 'we +are saved and delivered from punishment.' + +"'A general burst of laughter interrupted him a second time. Béville +took his purse from his girdle, and shook it at the preacher, as an +admission that he had lost." + +The sermon that follows is in character with its commencement. Whilst +awaiting its conclusion, Bernard de Mergy in vain seeks the Countess de +Turgis; it is only when leaving the church that his brother points her +out to him. She is escorted by a young man, of slight figure and +effeminate mien, dressed with studied negligence. This is the terrible +Count de Comminges, the duellist of the day, the chief of those +_raffinés_ who fought on every pretext, and often on no pretext at all. +He had had nearly a hundred duels, and a challenge from him was held +equivalent to a ticket for the hospital, if not to sentence of death. +"Comminges once summoned a man to the Pré-aux-Clercs, then the classic +duelling-ground. They stripped off their doublets, and drew their +swords. 'Are you not Berny of Auvergne?' inquired Comminges. 'Certainly +not,' replied his antagonist; 'my name is Villequier, and I am from +Normandy.' 'So much the worse,' quoth Comminges, 'I took you for another +man; but since I have challenged you, we must fight.' They fought +accordingly, and the unlucky Norman was killed." Since the death of a +Monsieur de Lannoy, slain at the siege of Orleans, Madame de Turgis is +without a lover. Comminges aspires to the vacant post; his attentions +are rather tolerated than encouraged; but he seems determined that if he +does not succeed, nobody else shall, for he has constituted himself her +constant attendant, and a wholesome dread of his formidable rapier keeps +off rivals. He has sworn to kill all who present themselves. + +By the interest of Coligny, whom Charles the Ninth affects to favour +whilst he plots his death, Bernard de Mergy receives a commission in the +army preparing for a campaign in Flanders. He goes to court to thank the +king, and the following scene passes. + +"The court was at the Château de Madrid. The queen-mother, surrounded by +her ladies, waited in her apartment for the king to come to breakfast. +The king, followed by the princes, slowly traversed the gallery, in +which were assembled the nobles and gentlemen who were to accompany him +to the chase. With an absent air he listened to the remarks of his +courtiers, and made abrupt replies. When he passed before the two +brothers, the Captain bent his knee, and presented the newly-made +officer. Mergy bowed profoundly, and thanked his majesty for the favour +shown him before he had earned it. + +"'Ha! it is you of whom my father the Admiral spoke! You are Captain +George's brother?' + +"'Yes, sire.' + +"'Catholic or Protestant?' + +"'Sire, I am a Protestant.' + +"'I ask from idle curiosity. The devil take me if I care of what +religion are those who serve me well.' + +"And having uttered these memorable words, the king entered the queen's +apartments. A few moments later, a swarm of ladies spread themselves +over the gallery, as if sent to enable the gentlemen to wait with +patience. I shall speak but of one of the beauties of that court, where +they so greatly abounded; of the Countess de Turgis, who plays an +important part in this history. She wore an elegant riding-dress, and +had not yet put on her mask. Her complexion, of dazzling but uniform +whiteness, contrasted with her jet-black hair; her well-arched +eye-brows, slightly joining, gave a proud expression to her physiognomy, +without diminishing its graceful beauty. At first, the sole expression +of her blue eye seemed one of disdainful haughtiness; but when animated +in conversation, their pupils, dilated like those of a cat, seemed to +emit sparks, and few men, even of the most audacious, could long sustain +their magical power. + +"'The Countess de Turgis--how lovely she looks!' murmured the courtiers, +pressing forward to see her better. Mergy, close to whom she passed, was +so struck by her beauty, that he forgot to make way till her large +silken sleeves rustled against his doublet. She remarked his emotion +without displeasure, and for a moment deigned to fix her magnificent +eyes on those of the young Protestant, who felt his cheek glow under her +gaze. The Countess smiled and passed on, letting one of her gloves fall +before our hero, who, still motionless and fascinated, neglected to pick +it up. Instantly a fair-haired youth, (it was no other than Comminges,) +who stood behind Mergy, pushed him rudely in passing before him, seized +the glove, kissed it respectfully, and presented it to Madame de +Turgis. Without thanking him, the lady turned towards Mergy with a look +of crushing contempt; and, observing Captain George at his side, +'Captain,' said she, very loud, 'where does that great clown spring +from? He must be some Huguenot, judging from his courtesy.' + +"The laughter of the bystanders completed the embarrassment of the +unlucky Bernard. + +"'He is my brother, madam,' was George's quiet reply; 'he has been three +days at Paris, and, by my honour! he is not more awkward than Lannoy +was, before you undertook his education.' + +"The Countess coloured slightly. 'An unkind jest, Captain,' she said: +'Speak not ill of the dead. Give me your hand; I have a message to you +from a lady whom you have offended.' + +"The Captain respectfully took her hand, and led her to the recess of a +distant window. Before she reached it, she once more turned her head to +look at Mergy. + +"Still dazzled by the apparition of the beautiful Countess, whom he +longed to look at, but dared not, Mergy felt a gentle tap upon his +shoulder. He turned and beheld the Baron de Vaudreuil, who drew him +aside, to speak to him, as he said, without fear of interruption. + +"'My dear fellow,' the Baron began, 'you are a stranger at court, and +are probably not yet acquainted with its customs?' + +"Mergy looked at him with astonishment. + +"'Your brother is engaged, and not able to advise you; if agreeable to +you I will replace him. You have been gravely insulted; and seeing you +in this pensive attitude, I doubt not you meditate revenge.' + +"'Revenge?--on whom?' cried Mergy, reddening to the very white of his +eyes. + +"'Were you not just now rudely pushed aside by little Comminges? The +whole court witnessed the affront, and expect you to notice it +suitably.' + +"'But,' said Mergy, 'in so crowded a room as this an accidental push is +nothing very extraordinary.' + +"'M. de Mergy, I have not the honour to be intimate with you: but your +brother is my particular friend, and he will tell you that I practise as +much as possible the divine precept of forgiveness of injuries. I do not +wish to embark you in a bad quarrel, but at the same time it is my duty +to tell you that Comminges did not push you accidentally. He pushed you, +because he wished to insult you; and if he had not pushed you, you would +still be insulted; for, by picking up Madame de Turgis's glove, he +usurped your right. The glove was at your feet, _ergo_ it was for you +alone to raise and return it. And you have but to look around; you will +see Comminges telling the story and laughing at you.' + +"Mergy turned about. Comminges was surrounded by five or six young men, +to whom he laughingly narrated something which they listened to with +curious interest. Nothing proved that his conduct was under discussion; +but at the words of his charitable counsellor, Mergy felt his heart +swell with fury. + +"'I will speak to him after the hunt,' he said, 'and he shall tell me--' + +"'Oh! never put off a good resolution; besides, you offend Heaven much +less in challenging your adversary immediately after the offence than in +doing it when you have had time to reflect. In a moment of irritation, +which is but a venial offence, you agree to fight; and if you afterwards +fulfil your agreement, it is only to avoid committing a far greater sin, +that of breaking your word. But, I forget that you are a Protestant. +Nevertheless, arrange a meeting with him at once. I will bring you +together.' + +"'I trust he will not refuse to make a fitting apology.' + +"'Undeceive yourself, comrade. Comminges never yet said, I was wrong. +But he is a man of strict honour, and will give you every satisfaction.' + +"Mergy made an effort to suppress his emotion and assume an indifferent +air. + +"'Since I have been insulted,' he said, 'I must have satisfaction. And +whatever kind may be necessary, I shall know how to insist upon it.' + +"'Well spoken, my brave friend; your boldness pleases me, for you of +course know that Comminges is one of our best swordsmen. _Par ma foi!_ +he handles his blade right cunningly. He took lessons at Rome, of +Brambilla, and Petit-Jean will fence with him no longer.' And whilst +speaking, Vaudreuil attentively watched the countenance of Mergy, who +was pale, but from anger at the offence offered him rather than from +apprehension of its consequences. + +"'I would willingly be your second in this affair, but I take the +sacrament to-morrow, and, moreover, I am engaged to M. de Rheincy, and +cannot draw sword against any but him.'[B] + +"'I thank you, sir. If necessary, my brother will second me.' + +"'The Captain is perfectly at home in these affairs. Meanwhile, I will +bring Comminges to speak with you.' + +"Mergy bowed, and turning to the wall, did his best to compose his +countenance and arrange what he should say. There is a certain grace in +giving a challenge, which habit alone bestows. It was our hero's first +affair, and he was a little embarrassed; he was less afraid of a +sword-thrust than of saying something unbecoming a gentleman. He had +just succeeded in composing a firm and polite sentence, when Baron de +Vaudreuil, taking him by the arm, drove it out of his head. + +"'You desire to speak to me, sir?' said Comminges, hat in hand, and +bowing with an impertinent politeness, which brought an angry flush upon +Mergy's countenance. + +"'I hold myself insulted by your behaviour,' the young Protestant +instantly replied, 'and I desire satisfaction.' + +"Vaudreuil nodded approvingly; Comminges drew himself up, and placing +his hand on his hip, the prescribed posture in such circumstances, +replied with much gravity: + +"'You constitute yourself demander, sir, and, as defendant, I have the +choice of arms.' + +"'Name those you prefer.'" + +Comminges reflected for an instant. "'The _estoc_,' he at last said, 'is +a good weapon, but it makes ugly wounds; and at our age,' he added, with +a smile, 'one is not anxious to appear before one's mistress with a +scarred countenance. The rapier makes a small hole, but it is enough.' +And he again smiled, as he said, 'I choose rapier and dagger.' + +"'Very good,' said Mergy, and he took a step to depart. + +"'One moment!' cried Vaudreuil; 'you forget the place of meeting.' + +"'The Court uses the Pré-aux-Clercs,' said Comminges; 'and if the +gentleman has no particular preference----' + +"'The Pré-aux-Clercs--be it so.' + +"'As to the time, I shall not be up before eight o'clock, for reasons of +my own--you understand--I do not sleep at home to-night, and cannot be +at the Pré before nine.' + +"'Let nine be the hour.' + +"Just then Mergy perceived the Countess de Turgis, who had left the +Captain in conversation with another lady. As may be supposed, at sight +of the lovely cause of this ugly affair, our hero threw into his +countenance an additional amount of gravity and feigned indifference. + +"'Of late,' said Vaudreuil, 'it is the fashion to fight in crimson +drawers. If you have none, I will send you a pair. They look clean, and +do not show blood. And now,' continued the Baron, who appeared quite in +his element, 'nothing remains but to fix upon your seconds and thirds.' + +"'The gentleman is a new comer at Court' said Comminges, 'and perhaps +might have difficulty in finding a third. Out of consideration for him I +will content myself with a second.' + +"With some difficulty, Mergy contracted his lips into a smile. + +"'Impossible to be more courteous,' said the Baron. 'It is really a +pleasure to deal with so accommodating a cavalier as M. de Comminges.' + +"'You will require a rapier of the same length as mine,' resumed +Comminges; 'I can recommend you Laurent, at the Golden Sun, Rue de la +Féronnerie; he is the best armourer in Paris. Tell him you come from me, +and he will treat you well.' Having thus spoken, he turned upon his +heel, and rejoined the group he had lately left. + +"'I congratulate you, M. Bernard,' said Vaudreuil; 'you have acquitted +yourself admirably. Exceedingly well, indeed. Comminges is not +accustomed to hear himself spoken to in that fashion. He is feared like +fire, especially since he killed Canillac; for as to St Michel, whom he +killed a couple of months ago, he did not get much credit by that. St +Michel was not particularly skilful, whilst Canillac, had already slain +five or six antagonists, without receiving a scratch. He had studied at +Naples under Borelli, and it was said that Lansac had bequeathed him the +secret thrust with which he did so much harm. To be sure,' continued the +Baron, as if to himself, 'Canillac had pillaged the church at Auxerre, +and trampled on the consecrated wafers: no wonder he was punished.' + +"Mergy, although far from amused by this conversation, thought himself +bound to continue it, lest a suspicion offensive to his courage should +occur to Vaudreuil. + +"'Fortunately,' he replied, 'I have pillaged no church, and never +touched a consecrated wafer in my life; so I have a risk the less to +run.' + +"'Another caution. When you cross swords with Comminges, beware of one +of his feints, which cost Captain Tomaso his life. He cried out that the +point of his sword was broken. Tomaso instantly guarded his head, +expecting a cut; but Comminges's sword was perfect enough, for it +entered, to within a foot of the hilt, Tomaso's breast, which he had +exposed, not anticipating a thrust. But you fight with rapiers, and +there is less danger.' + +"'I will do my best.' + +"'Ah! one thing more. Choose a dagger with a strong basket-hilt; it is +very useful to parry. I owe this scar on my left hand to having gone out +one day without a poniard. Young Tallard and myself had a quarrel, and +for want of a dagger, I nearly lost my hand.' + +"'And was he wounded?' inquired Mergy. + +"'I killed him, thanks to a vow I made to St Maurice, my patron. Have +some linen and lint about you, it can do no harm. One is not always +killed outright. You will do well also to have your sword placed on the +altar during mass. But you are a Protestant. Yet another word. Do not +make it a point of honour not to retreat; on the contrary, keep him +moving; he is short-winded; exhaust his breath, and, when you find your +opportunity, one good thrust in the breast and your man is down.' + +"There is no saying how long the Baron would have continued his valuable +advice, had not a great sounding of horns announced that the King was +about to take horse. The door of the apartment opened; and his Majesty +and the Queen-mother made their appearance, equipped for the chase. +Captain George, who had just left his lady, joined his brother, and +clapped him joyously on the shoulder. + +"'By the mass!' he cried, 'thou art a lucky rogue! Only see this +youngster, with his cat's mustache; he has but to show himself, and all +the ladies are mad after him. The handsome Countess has been talking +about you for the last quarter of an hour. Come, good courage! During +the hunt, keep by her stirrup, and be as gallant as you can. But what +the devil's the matter with you? Are you ill? You make as long a face as +a preacher at the stake. _Morbleu!_ cheer up, man!' + +"'I have no great fancy to hunt to-day,' said Bernard; 'and I would +rather--' + +"'If you do not hunt,' whispered Vaudreuil, 'Comminges will think you +are afraid.' + +"'I am ready,' said Mergy, passing his hand across his burning brow, and +resolved to wait till after the hunt to inform his brother of his +adventure. 'What disgrace,' thought he, 'if Madame de Turgis suspected +me of fear; if she supposed that the idea of an approaching duel +prevented my enjoying the chase.' + +"During the hunt, Bernard swerves not from the side of the Countess, who +accords him various marks of favour, and finally dismisses Comminges, +who has also escorted her, and has a _tête-a-tête_ ride with her new +admirer. She well knows that a duel is in the wind, and dreads it, for +Mergy's sake. Hopeless of his escape with life from the projected +combat, she tries at least to save his soul, and makes a bold attempt at +his conversion. But on that head he is deaf even to _her_ voice. +Baffled, she essays a compromise. + +"'You heretics have no faith in relics?' said Madame de Turgis. + +"Bernard smiled. + +"'And you think yourselves defiled by touching them?' she continued. +'You would not carry one, as we Roman Catholics are wont to do?' + +"'We hold the custom useless, to say the least.' + +"'Listen. A cousin of mine once attached a relic to his hound's neck, +and at twelve paces fired at the dog an arquebuse charged with slugs.' + +"'And the dog was killed?' + +"'Not touched.' + +"'Wonderful! I would fain possess such a relic.' + +"'Indeed!--and you would carry it?' + +"'Undoubtedly--since the relic saved the dog, it would of course--But +stay, is it quite certain that a heretic is as good as a Catholic's +dog?' + +"Without listening to him, Madame de Turgis hastily unbuttoned the top +of her closely fitting habit, and took from her bosom a little gold box, +very flat, suspended by a black ribbon. 'Here,' she said,--'you promised +to wear it. You shall return it me one day.' + +"'Certainly. If I am able.' + +"'But you will take care of it? No sacrilege! You will take the greatest +care of it!' + +"'I have received it from you, madam.' + +"She gave him the relic, and he hung it round his neck. + +"'A Catholic would have thanked the hand that bestowed the holy +talisman.' + +"Mergy seized her hand, and tried to raise it to his lips. + +"'No, no! it is too late.' + +"'Say not so! Remember, I may never again have such fortune.' + +"'Take off my glove,' said the lady. Whilst obeying, Mergy thought he +felt a slight pressure. He imprinted a burning kiss on the white and +beautiful hand." + +"Frank and free were the dames of the ninth Charles's court. Faithless +in the virtues of the relic, feverishly excited by the novelty of his +situation, and by the preference the Countess has shown him, which has +given life a tenfold value in his eyes, Mergy passes an agitated and +sleepless night. When the Louvre clock strikes eight, his brother enters +his apartment, bringing the necessary weapons, and vainly endeavouring +to conceal his sadness and anxiety. Bernard examines the sword and +dagger, the manufacture of the famous Luno of Toledo. + +"'With such good arms,' he said, 'I shall surely be able to defend +myself.' Then showing the relic given him by Madame de Turgis, and which +he wore concealed in his bosom, 'Here too,' he added with a smile, 'is a +talisman better than coat of mail against a sword-thrust.' + +"'Whence have you the bauble?' + +"'Guess.' And the vanity of appearing favoured by the fair, made him for +a moment forget both Comminges and the duelling sword that lay naked +before him. + +"'I would wager that crazy Countess gave it you! May the devil confound +her and her box!' + +"'It is a relic for protection in to-day's encounter.' + +"'She had better have worn her gloves, instead of parading her fine +white fingers.' + +"'God preserve me,' cried Mergy, blushing deeply, 'from believing in +Papist relics. But if I fall to-day, I would have her know that I died +with this upon my heart.' + +"'Folly!' cried the Captain, shrugging his shoulders. + +"'Here is a letter for my mother,' said Mergy, his voice slightly +tremulous. George took it without a word, and approaching the table, +opened a small Bible, and seemed busy reading whilst his brother +completed his toilet. On the first page that offered itself to his eyes, +he read these words in his mother's handwriting; '1st May 1549, my son +Bernard was born. Lord, conduct him in thy ways! Lord, shield him from +all harm!' George bit his lip violently, and threw down the book. +Bernard observed the gesture, and imagining that some impious thought +had come into his brother's head, he gravely took up the Bible, put it +in an embroidered case, and locked it in a drawer, with every mark of +great respect. + +"'It is my mother's Bible,' he said. + +"The Captain paced the apartment, but made no reply." + +According to the established rule in such cases--a rule laid down for +the especial behoof, benefit, and accommodation of romance writers--the +hero of a hundred duels falls by the maiden sword of the tyro, who +escapes with a slight wound. So signal a triumph makes the reputation of +Mergy. His wound healed, and all danger of persecution by the powerful +family of Comminges at an end, he reappears at court, and finds that he +has in some sort inherited the respect and consideration formerly shown +to his defunct rival. The politeness of the _raffinés_ is as +overpowering as their envy is ill concealed; and, as to the ladies, in +those days the character of a successful duellist was a sure passport to +their favour. The raw provincial, so lately unheeded, has but to throw +his handkerchief, now that he has dabbled it in blood. But the only one +of these sanguinary sultanas on whom Mergy bestows a thought, is not to +be found. In vain does he seek, in the crowd of beauties who court his +gaze, the pale cheek, blue eyes, and raven hair of Madame de Turgis. +Soon after the duel, she had left Paris for one of her country seats, a +departure attributed by the charitable to grief at the death of +Comminges. Mergy knows better. Whilst laid up with his wound, and +concealed in the house of an old woman, half doctress, half sorceress, +he detected a masked lady, whom he recognised as De Turgis, performing +for his cure, with the assistance of the witch, certain mysterious +incantations. They had procured Comminges's sword, and rubbed it with +scorpion oil, "the sovereign'st thing on earth" to heal the wound the +weapon had inflicted. And there was also a melting of a wax figure, +intended as a love charm; and from all that passed, Bernard could not +doubt that the Countess had set her affections on him. So he waits +patiently, and one morning, whilst his brother is reading the "Vie +très-horrifique de Pantagruel," and he himself is taking a guitar lesson +from the Signor Uberto Vinibella, a wrinkled duenna brings him a scented +note, closed with a gold thread, and a large green seal, bearing a Cupid +with finger on lips, and the Spanish word, _Callad_, enjoining silence. + +The best picture of the massacre of St Bartholomew we have read in a +book of fiction, is given by M. Mérimée, in small compass and without +unnecessary horrors. Less than an hour before its commencement, the +Countess informs her lover of the fate reserved for him and all of his +faith. She urges and implores him to abjure his heresy; he steadfastly +refuses--and she, her love redoubled by his courageous constancy, +conceals him from the assassins. In the disguise of a monk, he escapes +from Paris, and makes his way to La Rochelle, the last stronghold of the +persecuted Protestants. On the road, he falls in with another refugee, +the _lanzknecht_ Captain Dietrich Hornstein, similarly disguised and +bound to the same place. There is an excellent scene at a country inn, +where four ruffians, their hands reeking with Protestant blood, compel +the false Franciscans to baptise a pair of pullets by the names of carp +and perch, that they may not sin by eating fowl on Friday. Mergy at last +loses patience, and breaks a bottle over one of their heads; and a fight +ensues, in which the bandits are worsted. The two Huguenots reach La +Rochelle, which is soon afterwards besieged by the king's troops. In a +sortie, Bernard forms an ambuscade, into which his brother unfortunately +falls, and receives a mortal wound. Taken into La Rochelle, he is laid +upon a bed to die; and, refusing the spiritual assistance of Catholic +priest and Protestant minister, he accelerates his death by a draught +from Hornstein's wine flask, and strives to comfort Bernard, who is +frantic with remorse. + +"He again closed his eyes, but soon re-opened them and said to Mergy: +'Madame de Turgis bade me assure you of her love.' He smiled gently. +These were his last words. In a quarter of an hour he died, without +appearing to suffer much. A few minutes later Béville expired in the +arms of the monk, who afterwards declared that he had distinctly heard +in the air the cries of joy of the angels who received the soul of the +penitent, whilst subterraneous demons responded with a yell of triumph +as they bore away the spiritual part of Captain George." + +"It is to be seen in any history of France, how La Noue left La +Rochelle, disgusted with civil wars and tormented by his conscience, +which reproached him for bearing arms against his king; how the Catholic +army was compelled to raise the siege, and how the fourth peace was +made, soon followed by the death of Charles IX. + +"Did Mergy console himself? Did Diana take another lover? I leave it to +the decision of the reader, who thus will end the romance to his own +liking." + +By his countrymen, M. Mérimée's short tales are the most esteemed of his +writings. He produces them at intervals much too long to please the +editor and readers of the periodical in which they have for some time +appeared,--the able and excellent _Revue des Deux Mondes_. Once in +eighteen months, or two years, he throws a few pages to the public, +which, like a starved hound to whom a scanty meal is tossed, snaps +eagerly at the gift whilst growling at the niggardliness of the giver: +and the publisher of the _Revue_ knows that he may safely print an extra +thousand copies of a number containing a novel by Prosper Mérimée. Now +and then, M. Mérimée comes out with a criticism of a foreign book. His +last was a review of "Grote's Greece," and he has also written a paper +on "Borrow's Spanish Rambles." A man of great erudition and extensive +travel, he is thoroughly master of many languages, and, in writing about +foreign countries and people, steers clear of the absurd blunders into +which some of his contemporaries, of respectable talents and +attainments, not unfrequently fall. His English officer and lady in +Colomba are excellent; very different from the absurd caricatures of +Englishmen one is accustomed to see in French novels. He is equally +truthful in his Spanish characters. A great lover of things Spanish, he +has frequently visited, and still visits, the Peninsula. In 1831 he +published, in the _Revue de Paris_, three charming letters from Madrid. +The action of most of his tales passes in Spain or Corsica, or the South +of France, although he now and then dashes at Parisian society. With +this he has unquestionably had ample opportunity to become acquainted, +for he is a welcome guest in the best circles of the French capital. +Still we must hope there is some flaw in the glasses through which he +has observed the gay world of Paris. The "Vase Etrusque" is one of his +sketches of modern French life, in the style of the "Double Méprise," +but better. It is a most amusing and spirited tale, but unnecessarily +immoral. Had the heroine been virtuous, the interest of the story would +in no way have suffered, so far as we can see; and that which attaches +to her, as a charming and unhappy woman, would have been augmented. This +opinion, however, would be scoffed at on the other side of the Channel, +and set down as a piece of English prudery. And perhaps, instead of +grumbling at M. Mérimée for making the Countess Mathilde the mistress of +Saint Clair--which nothing compelled him to do--we ought thankfully to +acknowledge his moderation in contenting himself with a quiet intrigue +between unmarried persons, instead of favouring us with a flagrant case +of adultery, as in the "Double Méprise," or initiating us into the very +profane mysteries of _operatic figurantes_, as in "Arsène Guillot." Even +in France, where he is so greatly and justly admired, this last tale was +severely censured, as bringing before the public eye phases of society +that ill bear the light. Fidelity to life in his scenes and characters +is a high quality in an author, and one possessed in a high degree by M. +Mérimée; but he has been sometimes too bold and cynical in the choice +and treatment of his subjects. "_La Partie de Tric-trac_," and +"_L'Enlèvement de la Redoute_," are amongst his happiest efforts. Both +are especially remarkable for their terse and vigorous style. We have +been prodigal of extracts from "Charles IX."--for it is a great +favourite of ours--and, although well known and much esteemed by all +habitual readers of French novels, it is hitherto, we believe, +untranslated into English. But we shall still make room for-- + + +THE STORMING OF THE REDOUBT. + +"I rejoined the regiment on the evening of the 4th September. I found +the colonel at the bivouac. At first he received me rather roughly; but +after reading General B's. letter of recommendation, he changed his +manner, and spoke a few obliging words. He presented me to my captain, +who had just returned from a reconnoissance. This captain, whom I had +little opportunity to become acquainted with, was a tall dark man, of +hard and repulsive physiognomy. He had been a private soldier, and had +won his cross and his epaulets on the battle-field. His voice, hoarse +and weak, contrasted strangely with his gigantic stature. They told me +he was indebted for this singular voice to a bullet that had passed +completely through his body at Jena. + +"On hearing that I came from the school at Fontainbleau, he made a wry +face, and said, 'My lieutenant died yesterday.'--I understood that he +meant to say, 'You are to replace him, and you are not able.' A sharp +word rose to my lips, but I repressed it. + +"The moon rose behind the redoubt of Cheverino, situate at twice +cannon-shot from our bivouac. She was large and red, as is common at her +rising; but that night she seemed to me of extraordinary size. For an +instant the black outline of the redoubt stood out against the moon's +brilliant disc, resembling the cone of a volcano at the moment of an +eruption. + +"An old soldier who stood near me, noticed the colour of the moon. 'She +is very red,' he said; ''tis a sign that yon famous redoubt will cost us +dear.' I was always superstitious, and this augury, just at that moment, +affected me. I lay down, but could not sleep; I got up and walked for +some time, gazing at the immense line of fires covering the heights +beyond the village of Cheverino. + +"When I deemed my blood sufficient cooled by the fresh night air, I +returned to the fire, wrapped myself carefully in my cloak, and shut my +eyes, hoping not to re-open them till daylight. But sleep shunned me. +Insensibly my thoughts took a gloomy turn. I said to myself, that I had +not one friend amongst the hundred thousand men covering that plain. If +I were wounded, I should be in an hospital, carelessly treated by +ignorant surgeons. All that I had heard of surgical operations returned +to my memory. My heart beat violently; and mechanically I arranged, as a +species of cuirass, the handkerchief and portfolio that I carried in the +breast of my uniform. I was overwhelmed by fatigue, and continually fell +into a doze, but as often as I did so, some sinister idea awoke me with +a start. Fatigue, however, at last got the upper hand, and I was fast +asleep when the _reveillé_ sounded. We formed up, the roll was called, +then arms were piled, and according to all appearance the day was to +pass quietly. + +"Towards three o'clock an aid-de-camp arrived with an order. We resumed +our arms; our skirmishers spread themselves over the plain; we followed +slowly; and in twenty minutes we saw the Russian pickets withdraw to the +redoubt. A battery of artillery took post on our right hand, another on +our left, but both considerably in advance. They opened a vigorous fire +upon the enemy, who replied with energy, and soon the redoubt of +Cheverino disappeared behind a cloud of smoke. + +"Our regiment was almost protected from the Russian fire by a ridge. +Their bullets, which seldom came in our direction--for they preferred +aiming them at the artillery--passed over our heads, or at most sent +earth and pebbles in our faces. + +"When we had received the order to advance, my captain looked at me with +an attention which made me pass my hand two or three times over my young +mustache, in the most cavalier manner I could assume. I felt no fear, +save that of being thought to feel it. These harmless cannon-balls +contributed to maintain me in my heroic calmness. My vanity told me that +I ran a real danger, since I was under fire of a battery. I was +enchanted to feel myself so much at my ease, and I thought with what +pleasure I should narrate the capture of the redoubt of Cheverino in the +drawing-room of Madame de B----, Rue de Provence. + +"The colonel passed along the front of our company and spoke to me. +'Well!' he said, 'you will see sharp work for your first affair.' + +"I smiled most martially, and brushed my coat-sleeve, on which a ball, +fallen about thirty paces from me, had sent a little dust. + +"It seems the Russians perceived how small was the effect of their round +shot, for they replaced them by shells, which could reach us better in +the hollow where we were posted. A tolerably large fragment of one of +these knocked off my shako and killed a mail beside me. + +"'I congratulate you,' said the captain, as I picked up my shako. 'You +are safe for to-day.' I knew the military superstition which holds the +maxim _Non bis in idem_ to be as applicable on a battle-field as in a +court of justice. I proudly replaced my shako on my head. 'An +unceremonious way of making people bow,' said I, as gaily as I could. +Under the circumstances, this poor joke appeared excellent. 'I +congratulate you,' repeated the captain; 'you will not be hit again, and +to-night you will command a company, for I feel that my turn is coming. +Every time I have been wounded, the officer near me has received a spent +ball, and,' he added in a low voice, and almost ashamed, 'all their +names began with a P.' + +"I affected to laugh at such superstitions. Many would have done as I +did--many would have been struck, as I was, by these prophetic words. As +a raw recruit I understood that I must keep my feelings to myself, and +always appear coldly intrepid. + +"After half an hour the Russian fire sensibly slackened; then we emerged +from our cover to march against the redoubt. Our regiment was composed +of three battalions. The second was charged to take the redoubt in flank +on the side of the gorge; the two others were to deliver the assault. I +was in the third battalion. + +"On appearing from behind the sort of ridge that had protected us, we +were received by several volleys of musketry, which did little harm in +our ranks. The whistling of the bullets surprised me: I turned my head +several times, thus incurring the jokes of my comrades, to whom the +noise was more familiar. 'All things considered,' said I to myself, 'a +battle is not such a terrible thing.' + +"We advanced at storming pace, preceded by skirmishers. Suddenly the +Russians gave three hurras, very distinct ones, and then remained +silent, and without firing. 'I don't like that silence,' said my +captain. 'It bodes us little good.' I thought our soldiers rather too +noisy, and I could not help internally comparing the tumultuous clamour +with the imposing stillness of the enemy. + +"We rapidly attained the foot of the redoubt: the palisades had been +broken, and the earth ploughed by our cannonade. With shouts of '_Vive +l'Empereur!_' louder than might have been expected from fellows who had +already shouted so much, our soldiers dashed over the ruins. + +"I looked up, and never shall I forget the spectacle I beheld. The great +mass of smoke had arisen, and hung suspended like a canopy twenty feet +above the redoubt. Through a gray mist were seen the Russian grenadiers, +erect behind their half-demolished parapet, with levelled arms, and +motionless as statues. I think I still see each individual soldier, his +left eye riveted on us, the right one hidden by his musket. In an +embrasure, a few feet from us, stood a man with a lighted fuse in his +hand. + +"I shuddered, and thought my last hour was come. 'The dance is going to +begin,' cried my captain. Good-night.' They were the last words I heard +him utter. + +"The roll of drums resounded in the redoubt. I saw the musket muzzles +sink. I shut my eyes, and heard a frightful noise, followed by cries and +groans. I opened my eyes surprised to find myself still alive. The +redoubt was again enveloped in smoke. Dead and wounded men lay all +around me. My captain was stretched at my feet; his head had been +smashed by a cannon-ball, and I was covered with his blood and brains. +Of the whole company, only six men and myself were on their legs. + +"A moment of stupefaction followed this carnage. Then the colonel, +putting his hat on the point of his sword, ascended the parapet, crying +'_Vive l'Empereur!_' He was instantly followed by all the survivors. I +have no clear recollection of what then occurred. We entered the +redoubt, I know not how. They fought hand to hand in the middle of a +smoke so dense that they could not see each other. I believe I fought +too, for my sabre was all bloody. At last I heard a shout of victory, +and, the smoke diminishing, I saw the redoubt completely covered with +blood and dead bodies. About two hundred men in French uniform stood in +a group, without military order, some loading their muskets, others +wiping their bayonets. Eleven Russian prisoners were with them. + +"Our colonel lay bleeding on a broken tumbril. Several soldiers were +attending to him, as I drew near--'Where is the senior captain?' said he +to a sergeant. The sergeant shrugged his shoulders in a most expressive +manlier. 'And the senior lieutenant?' 'Here is _Monsieur_, who joined +yesterday,' replied the sergeant, in a perfectly calm tone. The colonel +smiled bitterly. 'You command in chief, sir,' he said to me; 'make haste +to fortify the gorge of the redoubt with those carts, for the enemy is +in force; but General C. will send you a support.'--'Colonel,' said I, +'you are badly wounded.'--'_Foutre, mon cher_, but the redoubt is +taken.'" + +"Carmen," M. Mérimée's latest production, appeared a few months since in +the _Revue des Deux Mondes_, which appears to have got the monopoly of +his pen, as it has of many of the cleverest pens in France. "Carmen" is +a graceful and animated sketch, in style as brilliant as anything by the +same author--in the character of its incidents less strikingly original +than some of his other tales. It is a story of Spanish life, not in +cities and palaces, in court or camp, but in the barranca and the +forest, the gipsy suburb of Seville, the woodland bivouac and smuggler's +lair. Carmen is a gipsy, a sort of Spanish Esmeralda, but without the +good qualities of Hugo's charming creation. She has no Djali; she is +fickle and mercenary, the companion of robbers, the instigator of +murder. She inveigles a young soldier from his duty, leads him into +crime, deceives and betrays him, and finally meets her death at his +hand. M. Mérimée has been much in Spain, and--unlike some of his +countrymen, who apparently go thither with the sole view of spying out +the nakedness of the land and making odious comparisons, and who, in +their excess of patriotic egotism, prefer Versailles to the Alhambra, +and the Bal Mabille to a village _fandango_--he has a vivid perception +of the picturesque and characteristic, of the _couleur locale_, to use +the French term, whether in men or manners, scenery or costume, and he +embodies his impressions in pointed and sparkling phrase. As an +antiquarian and linguist, he unites qualities precious for the due +appreciation of Spain. Well-versed in the Castilian, he also displays a +familiarity with the Cantabrian tongue--that strange and difficult +_Vascuense_ which the Evil One himself, according to a provincial +proverb, spent seven years of fruitless labour in endeavouring to +acquire. And he patters Romani, the mysterious jargon of the gitanos, in +a style no way inferior--so far as we can discover--to Bible Borrow +himself. That gentleman, by the bye, when next he goes a missionarying, +would find M. Mérimée an invaluable auxiliary, and the joint narrative +of their adventures would doubtless be in the highest degree curious. +The grave earnestness of the Briton would contrast curiously with the +lively half-scoffing tone of the witty and learned Frenchman. Indeed, +there would be danger of persons of such opposite character falling out +upon the road, and fighting a mortal duel, with the king of the gipsies +for bottle-holder. The proverbial jealousy between persons of the same +trade might prove another motive of strife. Both are dealers in the +romantic. And "Carmen," related as the personal experience of the author +during an archæological tour in Andalusia the autumn of 1830, is as +graphic and fascinating as any chapters of the great tract-monger's +remarkable wanderings. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[B] It was a rule with the _raffinés_ not to commence a new quarrel so +long as there was an old one to terminate. + + + + +HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND LIVE IN IT. + + +NO. III. + +Having disposed of two grand categories of mistakes and absurdities in +house-building, viz., lightness of structure and badness of material, we +shall now address ourselves more particularly to the defects of +Arrangement and Form, or, as an architect might term it, to the +discussion of Plan and Elevation. The former task was ungrateful enough; +for therein we had to attack the cupidity and meanness, and the desire +for show and spurious display, which is the besetting sin of every +Englishman who pays poor-rates; but, the present undertaking is hardly +less hopeless, for we have to appeal to the intelligence, not only of +architects and builders, but also of those who commission them. + +Now, there is nothing drier and more unprofitable under the sun, nothing +more nearly approaching to a state of addle, than a builder's brains. +Your regular builders (and, indeed, not a few of your architects) are +the sorriest animals twaddling about on two legs; mere vivified bags of +sawdust, or lumps of lath and plaster, galvanised for a while, and +forming themselves into strange, uncouth, unreasonable shapes. A mere +"builder" has not two ideas in his head; he has only one; he can draw +only one "specification," as he calls it, under different forms; he can +make only one plan; he has one set of cornices always in his eye; one +peculiar style of panel; one special cut of a chimney. You may trace him +all through a town, or across a county, if his fame extends so far; a +dull repetition of the same notion characterises all his works. He +served his apprenticeship to old Plumbline, in Brick Lane; got up the +_Carpenter's Vade-Mecum_ by heart; had a little smattering of drawing +from Daub the painter, and then set up in business for himself. As for +Mr Triangle the architect, who built the grand town-hall here, the +other-day, in the newest style of Egyptian architecture, and copied two +mummies for door-posts, and who is now putting up the pretty little +Gothic church for the Diocesan Church-and-Chapel-Building and +Pew-Extension Society, with an east window from York, and a spire from +Salisbury, and a west front from Lincoln--why, he is the veriest stick +of a designer that ever applied a T-square to a stretching-board. He has +studied Wilkins's Vitruvius, it is true, and he has looked all through +Hunt's Tudor Architecture, but his imagination is as poor as when he +began them; he has never in his life seen one of the good buildings he +is pirating from, barring St Paul's and Westminster Abbey; he knows +nothing finer than Regent Street and Pall-Mall, and yet he pretends to +be a modern Palladio. It will not do, all this sham and parade of +knowledge; we want a new generation, both of architects and builders, +before we shall see any thing good arising in the way of houses--but as +this new progeny is not likely to spring up within a few days, nor even +years, we may as well buckle to the task of criticism at once, and find +out faults, which we shall leave others to mend. + +And, to lay the foundation of criticism in such matters once more and +for ever, let us again assert that good common-sense, and a plain +straight-forward perception of what is really useful, and suited to the +wants of climate and locality, are worth all the other parts of any +architect's education. These are the great qualities, without which he +will take up his rulers and pencils in vain; without them, his ambitious +_façades_ and intricate plans will all come to nothing, except dust and +rubbish. He may draw and colour like Barry himself; but unless he has +some spark of the genius that animated old Inigo and Sir Christopher, +some little inkling of William of Wickham's spirit within him, some +sound knowledge of the fitness and the requirements of things, he had +better throw down his instruments, and give it up as a bad job; he'll +only "damn himself to lasting shame." + +A moderate degree of science, an ordinarily correct eye, so as to tell +which is straightest, the letter I or the letter S, and a good share of +plain common-sense--these are the real qualifications of all architects, +builders, and constructors whatsoever. + +One other erroneous idea requires to be upset; the notion that our +modern houses, merely because they are recent, are better built and more +convenient than ancient ones. If there be one thing more certain than +another in the matter, it is this, that a gentleman's house built in +1700, is far handsomer, stronger, and more convenient, than one built in +1800; and not only so, but if it had had fair play given it, would still +outlive the newer one, and give it fifty years to boot;--and also that +another house built in 1600, is stronger than the one raised in 1700, +and has still an equal chance of survivorship; but that any veteran +mansion which once witnessed the year 1500, is worth all the other three +put together--not only for design and durability, but also for comfort +and real elegance. Pick out a bit of walling or roofing some four or +five centuries old, and it would take a modern erection of five times +the same solidity to stand the same test of ages. + +Let it not be supposed that our ancestors dwelt in rooms smaller, or +darker, or smokier, than those we now cram ourselves into. Nothing at +all of the kind; they knew what ease was, better than we do. They had +glorious bay-windows, and warm chimney-corners, and well-hung buttery +hatches, and good solid old oak tables, and ponderous chairs: had their +windows and doors been only a little more air-tight, their comforts +could not have been increased. + +First of all, then, with regard to the plans best suited for the country +residences of the nobility and gentry of England--of that high-minded +and highly gifted aristocracy, which is the peculiar ornament of this +island,--of that solid honest squirearchy, which shall be the +sheet-anchor of the nation, after all our commercial gents, with their +ephemeral prosperity, shall have disappeared from the surface of the +land, and have been forgotten,--the plan of a house best suited for the +"Fine old English Gentleman;" and we really do not care to waste our +time in considering the convenience and the taste of any that do not +rank with this class of men. It is absurd for any of the worthy members +of that truly noble and generous class of men, to try to erect +reminiscences of Italy, or any other southern clime, amid their own +"tall ancestral groves" at home, here in old England. They have every +right in the world to inhabit the palaces of Italy, which many a needy +owner is glad to find them tenanting; they cannot but admire the noble +proportions, the solid construction, the magnificent decorations, which +meet their eyes on every side, whether at Genoa, at Verona, at Venice, +at Florence, or at Rome. But it by no means follows, that what looks so +beautiful, and is so truly elegant and suitable on the Lake of Como, +will preserve the same qualities when erected on the banks of +Windermere; those lovely villas that overlook the _Val d'Arno_, and +where one could be content to spend the rest of one's days, with +Petrarch and Boccacio, and Dante, and Michael Angelo, and Raffaelle, +will not bear transplanting either to Richmond or Malvern. The climate +and the sky and the earth of Tuscany and Piedmont, are not those of +Gloucestershire and Warwickshire; what may be very harmonious in form +and colour when contrasted with the objects of that country which +produced it, may have the most disagreeable effect, and be excessively +inconvenient, in another region with which it has no relation. Not that +the proportions of style and the execution of detail may not be +reproduced in England, if sufficient taste and money be applied,--but +that all surrounding things are out of harmony with the very idea and +existence of the building. The vegetable world is different: the +external and internal qualities of the soil jar with the presence of the +foreign-looking mansion. An English garden is not, nor can be, an +Italian one; an English terrace can never be made to look like an +Italian one; those very effects of light and shade on which the +architect counted when he made his plans and elevations, are not to be +attained under an English sky. The house, however closely it may be +taken from the last Palazzo its noble owner lived in, will only be a +poor-looking copy after all; and he will wonder, as he paces through its +corridors and halls, or views it from every point of the compass on the +outside, what can be the cause of such a failure of his hopes? He hoped +for and expected an impossibility; he thought to raise up a little Italy +in the midst of his Saxon park. Could the experiment end in any thing +else than a failure? + +Every climate and every country has its own peculiarities, which the +inhabitants are found to consult, and which all architects will do well +to observe closely before they lay down their plans. The general +arrangement, the plan of a house, will depend upon this class of +external circumstances more than on any other; while the architectural +effect and design of the elevation will have an intimate relation to the +physical appearance of the region, to the ideas, the pursuits, and the +history of its people. + +Thus it was with the ancient Greeks and Romans, as we find their +domestic life revealed to us at Pompeii. In that delicious climate of +Campania, where the sun shines with a whitening and ever unclouded +splendour, and where winter's frosts may be said to be unknown, the +great thing wanted was shady coolness, privacy, and the absence of all +that might fatigue. Hence, in the arrangement of the Pompeian villas, +windows were comparatively unknown: the rooms were lighted from above; +the aperture for the light was open to the sky; whatever air could be +procured was precious. Colonnades and dark passages were first-rate +appendages of a fashionable man's habitation. His sleeping apartment was +a dark recess impervious to the sun's rays, lighted only by the +artificial glare of lamps, placed on those elegant candelabra, which +must be admired as models of fitness and beauty as long as imitative art +shall exist. He had not a staircase in all his house, or he would not +have if he could help it. The fatigue of lifting the foot in that hot +climate was a point of importance, and he carefully avoided it. The +house was a regular _frigidarium_. It answered the end proposed. It was +commodious, it was elegant--and it was therefore highly suitable to the +people and the place. But it does not therefore follow that it ought to +be imitated in a northern clime, nor indeed in any latitude, we would +rather say in any country, except Italy itself. Few parts of France and +Germany would admit of such erections--some portions of Spain and Greece +might. In Greece, indeed, the houses are much after the same plan, but +in Spain only portions of the south-eastern coast would allow of such a +style of building being considered at all habitable. + +Place, then, a Pompeian villa at Highgate or Hampstead--build up an +Atrium with an Impluvium, add to it a Caldarium if you please, and a +Viridarium, too,--and _omne quod exit in um_: but you will not thereby +produce a good dwelling-house; far from it, you will have a show-box fit +for Cockneys to come and gape at: but nothing else. + +Now, if we would only follow the same rule of common sense that the +Greek or Roman architect did on the shores of the Parthenopoean Gulf, +we should arrive at results, different indeed, but equally congruous to +our wants, equally correct and harmonious in idea. What is it that we +want in this foggy, damp, and cloudy climate of ours, nine days out of +every ten? Do we want to have a spacious colonnade and a portico to keep +off every ray of a sun only too genial, only too scorching? Is the +heavens so bright with his radiance that we should endeavour to escape +from his beams? Are we living in an atmosphere of such high temperature +that if we could now and then take off our own skins for a few minutes, +we should be only too glad to do so? As far as our own individual +sensations are concerned, we would that things were so; but we know from +unpleasant experience that they are far otherwise. + +We believe that every rational householder will agree with us, that the +first thing to be guarded against in this country is cold, next wet, +and thirdly darkness. A man who can really prove that he possesses a +thoroughly warm, dry, and well-lighted house, may write himself down as +a _rerum dominus_ at once: a favoured mortal, one of Jove's right-hand +men, and a pet of all the gods. He is even in imminent danger of some +dreadful calamity falling upon him, inasmuch as no one ever attains to +such unheard-of prosperity without being visited by some reverse of +fortune. He is at the top of the fickle goddess's wheel, and the least +impulse given to one of its many spokes must send him down the slippery +road of trouble. Nevertheless, though difficult to attain, these three +points are the main ones to be aimed at by every English builder and +architect; let him only keep them as the stars by which he steers his +course, and he will come to a result satisfactory in the end. + +One other point is of importance to be attended to as a _fundamental_ +one, and indeed as one of superstruction too. From the peculiarly +changeable nature of our climate, and from the provision that has to be +made for thoroughly warming a house, there is always a danger of the +ventilation and the drainage being neglected. Not one architect in a +hundred ever allows such "insignificant" points as these to disturb his +reveries. All that he is concerned in is his elevation, and his neatly +executed details; but whether the inhabitants are stifled in their beds +with hot foul air, or are stunk out of their rooms by the effluvia of +drains, are to him mere bagatelles. No trifles these, to those who have +to live in the house; no matter of insignificance to those who have an +objection to the too frequent visits of their medical attendant. + +In the first place, then, a gentleman's country house (we are adverting +here to country residences alone--to those in the metropolitan haunts of +men we shall return hereafter) should be thoroughly warm. Now, of course +a man may make a fire-place as big as Soyer's great range at +Crockford's--poor dear Crocky's, before it was reformed--and he may burn +a sack of coals at a time in it; and he may have one of these in each +apartment and lobby of his house--and a pretty warm berth he will then +have of it; but it would be no thanks to his architect that he should +thus be forced to encourage his purveyor of the best Wallsend. No: +either let him see that the walls are of a good substantial +thickness--none of the thin, hollow, badly set, sham walls of the +general run of builders; but made either of solid blocks of good ashlar +stone, with well-rammed rubble between, and this rubble again laid in an +all-penetrating bed of properly sanded mortar with plenty of lime in it, +and laid on hot, piping, steaming hot, if possible--and the joints of +the stones well closed with cement or putty; or else let the walls be +made of the real red brick, the clay two years old or more, well laid in +English bond, and every brick in its own proper and distinct bed of +mortar, as carefully made as before, and the joints cemented into the +bargain. Nor let any stone wall be less than thirty-six, nor any brick +wall than thirty inches thick; whereas, if the house exceeds two stories +in height, some additional inches may yet be added to the thickness of +the lower walls. These walls shall be proof against all cold, and, if +they be not made of limestone, against wet also. + +"But all this is horridly expensive! why, a house built after this +fashion would cost three times the amount of any one now erected upon +the usual specifications!" Of course it would. Materials and labour are +not to be had gratuitously; but then, if the house costs three times as +much, it will be worth three times more than what it would otherwise +fetch, and it will last more than three times as long. "But what is the +use of building for posterity? what does it matter whether the house is +a good one in the time of the next possessor but six? Why not 'run up' a +building that will have a handsome appearance in the present, my own +life-time, and if my descendant wishes for a better one and a warmer +one, why let him build another for himself? Add to which it will grow so +dreadfully old-fashioned in fifty years hence, that it is a hundred to +one if it is not voted a nuisance, and pulled down as an eyesore to the +estate." Such is the reasoning commonly used when any architect more +honest, more scientific, and more truly economical in his regard for his +employer's means, ventures to recommend the building of a mansion upon +principles, and with dimensions, which can alone fully satisfy the +exigencies of his art. We take leave, however, to observe, that such +ought not to be the reasoning of an English nobleman or gentleman. In +the first place, what is really erected in a proper and legitimate style +of architecture, be it classical or mediæval, can never become +"old-fashioned" or ugly. Is Hampton Court old-fashioned and ugly? is +Audley End so? are Burghleigh and Hatfield so? If they are, go and build +better. Is Windsor Castle so? yes, a large portion of it is, for its +architecture is not very correct; and though it has been erected only so +few years, in another fifty the reigning sovereign--if there be a +sovereign in England in those days--will pull down most of it, and +consider it as sham and as trumpery as the Pavilion has at length been +found out to have been all along. True; if you build houses in a false +and affected and unreal style of architecture, they are ugly from the +very beginning; and they will become as old-fashioned as old Buckingham +House or Strawberry Hill itself, perhaps in the life-time of him who +owns them; or else, like Fonthill, they will crumble about your ears, +and remain as monuments of your folly rather than of your taste. But go +and build as Thorpe, or Inigo Jones, or Wren used to build. Or even, if +you will travel abroad for your models, take Palladio himself for your +guide, or Phillbert Delorme, or Ducerceau, or Mansard; and your +erections shall stand for centuries, and become each year more and more +harmoniously beautiful. + +Next, your house should be dry; do not, then, go and build it with a +slightly-framed low-pitched roof, nor place it in that part of your +grounds which would be very suitable for an artificial lake, but not for +your mansion. Do not be afraid of a high roof; but let it tower up +boldly into the air; let there be, as the French architects of old used +to term it most expressively, a good "forest" of timber in its framing; +cover it with lead, if you can--if not, with flag-stones, or else, if +these be too dear, with extra thick slates in as large slabs as can be +conveniently worked, and as may be suitable to the framing,--least of +all with tiles. + +"But, good Lord! what ideas you have got of expense! Why, sir, do you +know that such a house would cost a great deal of money! and besides +this, I am almost certain that in ancient Rome, the houses had quite +flat roofs, and even in Italy, at the present day, the palaces have +remarkably low-pitched roofs!" Rome and Italy go to the ---- Antipodes! +Did you not stipulate that the house should be dry? do you think that +the old Italians ever saw a good shower of rain in all their lives? did +they? "_Nocte pluit totâ_," is all very well in the poet's fugitive +inscription; but did they ever see a six-weeks' rain, such as we have +every autumn and spring, and generally in June and July, to say nothing +of January and February, in Devonshire? My dear sir, if you wish to lie +dry in your bed, and all your family, too, to the seventh generation, +downwards, make your roof suited to the quantity of rain that falls; +pitch up its sides not less steeply than forty-five degrees, and do not +be afraid if it rises to sixty, and so gives you the true mediæval +proportion of the equilateral triangle. Do you consider it ugly? Then we +will ornament it; and we will make the chimney-stalks rise with some +degree of majesty, into an important feature of the architectural +physiognomy of the building. Are you grumbling at the expense, as you +did just now about that of the walls? What then! are you a Manchester +manufacturer, some dirty cotton-spinner? have you no faith in the +future? have you no regard for the dignity and comfort of your family? +are you, too, bitten with the demoralising commercial spirit of the age? +are you all for self and the present? have you no obligations towards +your ancestors? and are you unwilling to leave a name to be talked of by +your posterity? Why, to be sure it may tighten you up for five or six +years; but then do not stop quite so long in London: make your season +there rather shorter, and do not go so often to Newmarket, and keep away +from White's or Boodle's, and do not be so mad as to throw away any +more of those paltry thousands in contesting the county. Let the +Parliament and the country take care of themselves; they can very well +spare an occasional debater like yourself; the "glorious constitution" +of old England will take no harm even if _you_ do not assist in +concocting the hum-bug that is every year added to its heterogeneous +mixture. Lay out your money at home, drain your land, build a downright +good house for yourself; do not forget your poor tenants, set them a +good example, and let us put a proper roof on Hambledown Hall. + +Providing, however, that the worthy squire actually consents to pull out +a few more hundreds, for the sake of having walls of proper thickness +and roofs of right pitch, it does not quite follow that his ground-floor +rooms will be dry, unless the mansion is well vaulted underneath, and +well drained, to boot. We have known more than one ancient manor-house, +built in a low dead flat, with a river running by, and the joists of the +ground floor resting on the soil, and, yet the whole habitation as dry +as a bone; but still more numerous are the goodly edifices which we have +witnessed, built on slopes, and even hills, where not a spoonful of +water, you would say, could possibly lodge, and yet their walls outside +all green with damp, and within mildew, and discoloured loose-hanging +paper, telling the tale of the demon of damp. When you are seriously +bent on building a good house, put plenty of money under ground; dig +deep for foundations, lay them better and stronger even than your +super-structure; vault every thing under the lower rooms--ay, vault +them, either in solid stone or brick, and drain and counter drain, and +explore every crick and cranny of your sub-soil; and get rid of your +land springs; and do not let the water from any neighbouring hill +percolate through your garden, nor rise into a pleasing _jet-d'eau_ +right under the floor of your principal dining-room. If you can, and if +you do not mind the "old-fashioned" look of the thing, dig a good deep +fosse all round your garden, and line it with masonry; and have a couple +of bridges over it; you may then not only effectually carry off all +intruding visits of the watery sprites, but you may keep off hares from +your flower-beds, two-legged cats from your larder, and sentimental +"cousins" from your maids. You may thus, indeed, make your hall or +mansion into a little fortified place, with fosse and counter-scarp, and +covered way, and glacis; or at any rate, you may put a plain English +haw-haw ditch and fence all round the sacred enclosure; and depend upon +it that you will find the good effects of this extra expense in the +anti-rheumatic tendencies of your habitation. + +And now for the plan of your mansion, for the Ground Plan--the main part +of the business, that, on the proper proportioning and arranging of +which the success of your edificative experiment entirely depends. Here +take the old stale maxim into immediate and constant use, "Cut your coat +according to your cloth;" and, if you are a man of only £2000 a-year, do +not build a house on a plan that will require £10,000 at least of annual +income to keep the window-shutters open. Nor, seeing that you are living +in the country, attempt to cramp yourself for room, and build a great +tall staring house, such as would pass muster in a city, but is +exceedingly out of place in a park. As a matter of domestic æsthetics, +do not think of giving yourself, and still less any of your guests, the +trouble of mounting up more than one set of stairs to go to bed, but +keep your reception and principal rooms on the ground floor, and your +private rooms, with all the bed-chambers, on the floor above. Since, +however, you have determined on going to the expense of a proper roof, +do not suppose that we are such bad architectural advisers as to +recommend that the roof should be useless. No; here let the female +servants and the children of the family, perhaps, too, a stray bachelor +friend or two, find their lodging; and above all, if you are a family +man, if you have any of those tender yearnings after posterity, which we +hope you have, introduce into the roof a feature which we will remind +you of by and by, and for which, if we could only persuade people that +such a very old and useful idea were a new one, and our own, we would +certainly take out a patent. + +There should, then, be only two stories in a gentleman's country +residence, and a dormer or mansard story if we may so term it, in the +roof;--we will not be so vulgar as to call it a garret,--nor yet so +classical as to resort to the appellation of an attic. If, therefore, +you require a large house, take plenty of ground, and lay out all your +rooms _en suite_. Let all the offices, whence any noise or smell can +arise, be perfectly detached from the dwelling part of the +mansion:--such as the kitchens, sculleries, laundries, &c. They should +all be collected into a court with the coach-houses and stables on the +outside, and the whole range of the domestic offices on the other. Never +allow a kitchen to be placed under the same roof as your dining-room or +drawing-room: cut it off completely from the _corps de logis_, and let +it only communicate by a passage;--so shall you avoid all chance of +those anticipatory smells, the odour of which is sufficient to spoil +your appetite for the best dressed dinner in the world. If you would +have any use for the vault under your house, keep all your cellar +stores, and all your "dry goods" there;--it will be a test of your house +being well-built if they do not show any effects of damp after a few +months' stowage below the level of the soil, yet in _aere pleno_. We do +not mean to say that we would put one of our best and newest saddles, +nor our favourite set of harness, in one of the lower vaults, to judge +of the dampness of the house; but depend upon it, a pair or two of old +shoes form excellent hygrometers; and you may detect the "dew-point" +upon them with wonderful accuracy. + +"But only look at how you are increasing the cost of the house by thus +stretching out the house, and really wasting the space and +ground!"--What! still harping on the same string--that eternal +purse-string!--still at the gold and the notes? If you go on at this +rate, my good sir, you will never do any thing notable in the +house-line. Take a lesson from Louis XIV. when he built +Versailles;--that sovereign had at least this one good quality,--he had +a supreme contempt for money;--it cost him a great deal no doubt, but it +is "Versailles," _nec pluribus impar_;--why, it is a quarter of a mile +long, and there is, or rather was, room in it to have lodged all the +crowned heads of Europe, courts, ministers, guards, and all. Never stint +yourself for space; the ground you build on is your own; it is only the +extra brick and mortar;--the number of windows is not increased by +stretching the plan out, the internal fittings are not an atom more +expensive. Be at ease for once in your life, and cast about widely for +room. + +And now, dear sir, if you can but once remove this prejudice of cost +from your mind, you may set at defiance all those twaddling architects +who come to you with their theories of the "smallest spaces of support," +and who would fain persuade you that, because it is scientific to build +many rooms with few materials, _therefore_ you ought to dwell in a house +erected on such principles,--and that they ought to build it for you. +You may send them all to the right-about with their one-sided contracted +notions: is the house to be built for _your_ sake or for _theirs_? who +is going to inherit it--you or they? who is to find out all the comforts +and discomforts of the mansion--the owner or the architect?--If _you_, +then keep to your two stories and to the old English method of building +your house round one or more courts. Go upon the old palatial, baronial, +or collegiate plan; no matter what may be the style of architecture you +adopt, this plan will be found suitable to any. The advantages of it are +as follows: first of all, it gives you the opportunity of having your +rooms all _en suite_, and yet not crowded together; next, it is more +sociable for the inmates of a large country mansion to have the windows +of their apartments looking partly inwards, as it were to the centre of +the house, and partly outwards to the surrounding scenery: and thirdly, +it requires and it gives the opportunity of having that most admirable +and most useful appendage of any large mansion,--a cloister, or covered +gallery, running round the whole interior of the court, either +projecting from the plane of the walls--and, if so, becoming highly +ornamental; or else formed within the walls, and, if so, giving an +unusual degree of warmth and ventilation. In this damp and uncertain +climate of ours, just consider how many days there are in the course of +the year, when the ladies and the children of a family cannot stir out +of doors, not even into the gardens; and then think of what a comfort it +would be to have a dry and airy and elegant promenade and place of +exercise within their own walls. Then the children may scamper about, if +it be, a proper cloister external to the house, and make that joyous +noise which is so essential to their health, without any fear of +annoying even the most nervous of mammas. Within an instant they may all +be under her own personal inspection, and yet they may have their +perfect freedom. Here may the ladies of the family walk for hours on a +wet day, and enjoy themselves without trouble, and with the facility of +being at home again in a minute. If the court is well laid out as a +flowery parterre, and the green-house is made to contribute its proper +supply of plants to the cloister, it becomes converted into a kind of +conservatory, and forms of itself an artificial or winter garden. Both a +cloister, and an internal corridor with windows opening into the former, +may very appropriately be constructed together, and then the +accommodation of this plan is complete. + +Whoever has lived in a cloistered and court-built house will know the +convenient and comfortable feature we would here point out:--it is +especially suited to the climate of England, and to the domestic habits +of English families; it is one of the most ornamental features a house +can possess; it gives great facilities to the waiting of the servants; +it makes the house warm rather than cold; and it adds greatly to the +comfort of the whole. As for the additional cost--let the cost be----! +have we not entered our caveat against all such shabby pleas? Take this +along with you, good sir,--do the thing well, or don't do it at all. + + + + +A TURKISH WATERING-PLACE. + + +Ten days ago, when snowed up by winter, recurrent for the third time +this season, I could not compel myself to the recollection of my Adalian +experiences. Now that I am sitting with window thrown wide open, and +with fire raked out, the spirit of the scene encourages memories of my +visit to that very hot emporium of Caramania. + +We had been kept on the Smyrna station till we pretty well knew it under +every changing phase of season. Through the rigour of winter we had been +brought now to the very flagrance of the dog-star, to the time when +human nature can pretend no opposition to the mood of the lordly sun. +Even late in the autumn, these clear skies afford so little interruption +to the tide of sunbeams, that one is not quite exempt from risk of _coup +de soleil_. Indeed this is perhaps the very time when the untutored +stranger is particularly exposed to this danger. It is the only time of +the year when travelling can be pursued as a serious occupation; or when +one of the pale-faced Occidentals can venture forth _sub dio_ at +mid-day, without positive madness. During the months that, on the +admission of the indigenous, do duty as summer, the state of things is +so evidently beyond a joke, that no idea of trifling therewith enters +into the most unsophisticated mind. Life is reduced to something very +like a resignation of the sturdy substance of the day, and a diligent +employment of the two fag-ends. The intervening hours must be slept +away, or read away, or somehow employed without the requisition of +corporeal activity. And, considering that these are the hours during +which musquitoes vex not, and lesser tormentors of the rampant kind are +inactive, it is no slight boon to have such an interval, during some +part of which you may sleep in peace. As for the night, you may use it +for eating ices, or strolling on the Marina, or pulling out on the +phosphorescent waters of the bay; but unless you be very fresh, you will +hardly think of using that as the time for turning in. And thus are +rendered grateful those slumbers which are induced by the prevailing +spirit of noon. Of course, under such conditions of existence, there is +no great probability that much risk will be encountered by any one +gifted with the ordinary instinct of self-preservation. Should any one +be foolhardy enough to dare for himself the experiment, he would +scarcely find a _surridgi_ to furnish animals, or a guide willing to +pilot him. And should he even make a start of it, am I not the very man +to know what a lesson he would get in the course of the first six hours +of his march; and to predict that he would, should any brains be then +remaining to him, turn back on the strength of that same sample? It is +only a very young, and somewhat foolish person, who would be at all +likely to be found in this predicament. The dissuasion of the indigenous +is so earnest, and so without exception, that, considering their +knowledge of the facts, a prudent stranger must perceive in them the +substance of reason. The Asiatics, perhaps, carry a little too far the +dread of exposure to the atmospheric influences of summer; for they are +careful to shut out even the cool breezes of night, and dread the odour +of freshness that a shower calls forth from the earth. This delightful +exhalation they affirm to be the producer of fever. But indeed we may +concede to them the entertaining of some whimsies on this subject, as +being the necessary contingencies on their fatal experiences of marsh +_malaria_. + +Happy we Englishmen and Scotsmen, who know not what this _malaria_ +means! The worst story on the subject that I remember was a personal +adventure of my friend Beard. The scene of this adventure is a little +out of the way of Adalia, but it may serve to illustrate the style of +thing prevailing generally in this direction any where within hail of a +marsh. Beard was engaged in that (to those who like it) delightful, but +occasionally perilous duty of surveying. This involves the being sent +away in the boats for weeks at a stretch, during which time you go +groping along the coast, or threading out-of-the-way channels between +islands. It is easy to conceive that with fine weather, and healthy +shores, this must be a welcome duty to a young officer, full of zeal, +and unaccustomed to command. But sometimes the course will lie along +deadly shores, past which you must creep, and snatch hydrographical +facts from the teeth of death. Beard, poor fellow--and yet, considering +that he lives to tell the tale, we should rather congratulate than +pity--Beard was in command of a party of seven. Any one who knows the +service, knows that an officer accustomed to command a particular boat, +if he be a good fellow, acquires a strong fellow-feeling for and with +his men. This is but human nature, seeing that they are subject to +frequent and long isolations from the rest of the ship's company. I have +felt this influence strongly myself, and am persuaded that a sailor is +never so amiable a being as when away from his ship and from +civilisation, on some scrambling boat-expedition. He then puts off +altogether that selfishness of bearing which it often suits his humour +while on board to affect. Beard was one who entered fully into the +spirit of these expeditions; indeed he might have led one to suppose +that he would willingly have agreed to pass his life in a boat. On this +particular occasion they were coasting along Thessaly--those shores so +beautiful to look at, but of which the beauty, when the mists of night +descend upon them, reek with the breath of death. They proceeded +cautiously; and as their labours were protracted into new days and +weeks, and none of their little band had been stricken, they began to +hope, and perhaps to believe themselves seasoned and safe. The time for +them to rejoin the ship at last arrived, and not a man had been ill. One +man did indeed complain in the morning, but he laid in his oar, and they +hoped would soon be better. Presently another was forced to claim the +same exemption, and another. In short, they reached the ship with great +difficulty, and as by miracle, and not one of the party could mount the +side. They were all hoisted in, and in a few hours the only man of the +party who lived was my friend. In the pretty island of Sciathos is a +tomb, wherein sleep the whole party save that one. I have stood by this, +and read in the sad story of its inscription a sufficient warning on the +subject of marsh _malaria_. Once or twice I have come in its way, but +never willingly, and happily always without calamitous result. Once only +I have slept within its problematical range, and that was off that +pestiferous bit of coast near Epidaurus, and I fancy at a season when +the marshes had not their steam up. + +We had among us a lesson, but not of this melancholy character, on the +absurdity of attempting to brave the daylight heat of summer. It is so +natural for an Englishman to look upon the mere natives of any place to +which he may come in his travels, as cheats and ignoramuses, that we, as +a matter of course, and most complacently, admitted the natives _en +masse_ and every where to that rating. In the course of our vagaries we +stumbled on the pretty island of Mytilene, in the very piping hours of +summer. Very cool and pleasant did it look to us shipmen, hanging down +its umbrageous olive groves nearly to the water's edge--and very +pleasant should we have found it to be, had we been content to defer our +landing till the authorised hour of eventide. But besides that the place +looked so inviting, we felt bound to give way to a little enthusiasm at +this approach to the birthplace of the lady who gave Horace the model of + + "Jam satis terris nivis atque diræ" &c. + +so nothing could hold us in from immediate disembarkation, and a cross +country ride. We went right across from one harbour to another--for it +has two, which between them nearly bisect the island. But so frightful +was the heat, that nothing but youth and English blood exempted us from +the penalty of fever. Some of the party were very nearly knocked up +mid-way; and we should scarcely any of us have managed to get back to +the ship as we did, had it not been our fortune to meet a resting-place +in the village of Loutri. Such attempts as this are the causes of the +sad casualties that we occasionally find happening to Eastern +travellers. How many have paid with their lives the penalty of an +unseasonable journey in Syria, especially on the coast between Beyrout +and Jerusalem. Only choose well your time, and you may proceed in +perfect security, so far as the dangers of nature are concerned. Any +attempt at forcing a journey is a folly; and a folly of which the +correction will come with the first experiment, if it leave to the +person any future opportunity of sublunary conduct. + +But no one should mention Mytilene without saving a word or two in +praise of its beauty. All shrivelled up as we were by the heat--for we +were almost past the sudatory stage--we drank in some refreshment from +the scenery. Port Olivet has quite the appearance of a lake, and it is +only when quite at the spot that you perceive the real nature of the +locality. The hills around are finely shaded; and the masses of +olive-trees assumed, in the then lurid glare of sky and water, that +shadowy appearance that we used to see in Turner's pictures. They are +very famous for the production of a fine oil from their olives, which is +the staple commodity of the island, and of which they export +considerable quantities. By all accounts, nature, unassisted, may claim +the praise of this produce, for they are said to be careless +manufacturers. We went into one or two of the [Greek: ergastêria] to +witness the process of compression, but could not take it upon our +veracity to utter an opinion anent them. At least they seem in a fair +way to improve their wares; for the new consular agent of France (whom, +by the way, we took to his Barataria) is especially knowing in this +line, and hopes to produce, in a short time, oil that shall be equal to +that of France or Lucca. + +After all this talk about the impossibility of travelling in the summer, +it augurs ill for our account of Adalia, to say that it was the very +heat and rage of summer when we landed there. But as we were not +volunteers on the occasion, we did not choose our own season. Like the +fifty thousand Cossacks who marched off to the East Indies, not because +they liked it, but because they were sent, we were saved all the trouble +of deliberation; and once arrived at the spot, we were sufficiently old +stagers to adapt ourselves to the ways and means of the place. I +remember that we were delighted at the start: catching at the prospect +of change, as at the hope of improvement. Certainly things were bad +enough with us in Smyrna bay at that time. The pitch was boiling in the +seams, the water was hissing along-side; the sky seemed an entire sun, +so truly were the fiery rays rendered back from every part of the +glowing concave. The sea-breeze, one's only solace under such +circumstances, was continually forgetting to come. In spite of the +common profession, that without the sea-breeze it would be impossible to +live hereaway, we continued to pant through days of breezeless +existence. At this time it was that I arrived at the conclusion which is +now established in the code of my economics, that the endurance at +Calcutta or Port Royal is a joke compared with what one has to undergo +in these milder latitudes. The dweller in Anatolia has no such range of +Fahrenheit to alarm him into defensive measures, and thus he falls +comparatively unprepared into the conflict with the dog-days. Your +Bengalee mounts defences of _tattees_ and punkahs that cool down a hot +wind, or whistle air into presence in a trice. Whereas in this part of +the world, as the Sirocco blows, so it must steal into your room, +parching your face, and covering you all over with a clammy stickiness, +through which you may distinctly feel the subdolent shudder of incipient +ague. When he has darkened his room, and spread cool mats on the floor, +the poor Smyrniot has nothing farther that he can do. And if such be the +case of those who dwell within the mansions of Ismir, who have at least +thick walls between them and the sun, what is likely to be the state of +those _disgraziatos_, who people the busy town of ships in the bay?--the +rash men + + "--digitos a morte remotos + Quatuor aut septem." + +Custom, they say, may bring a man to any thing, as it did M. Chabert to +the power of living in an oven; to which achievement, by the way, I +should not wonder if the first step had been the passing of a hot summer +on board ship in harbour. You may any day see, at some of our gigantic +iron-works, custom bringing men to such a pass, that they can endure to +stand before a fire that would be the death and cooking of an ox. And so +I suppose it was by force of custom that we were able to undergo a style +of thing that ought to have been the stewing of any ordinary flesh and +blood. But it was a stupid and languid life that we were leading, +scarcely venturing on deck even beneath the awning, and not dreaming of +shore except quite in the evening. Sometimes a morning's interest would +be excited by some story of plague in the Lazaretto, and a proposed +adjournment of the ship to Vourlah, to be out of harm's way; and such +speculations, though not exactly pleasurable, were at least +anti-stagnative in character. In any thing like decent weather it is not +bad fun to get down to Vourlah for a time, and to fly from the gaieties +of the metropolis to the pleasures of the _chasse_ at Rabbit Island. It +must ever be soothing to a spirit that has not quite forgotten "the +humanities," to walk upon the turf which witnessed the infant gambols of +Anaxagoras; and besides that, the locality is pretty, and worthy of +being visited on its own account. The town is at the distance of some +miles from the Scala, which last is the grand watering-place for the +ships on this station. Some few years ago, when the two fleets, French +and English, were here, an extempore town was devised on the beach, for +the benefit of the thousand and one hangers-on who are always found in +such neighbourhoods. This was a stretch of luxury on their part; for +generally these nautical suttlers need no other shelter than that of the +boat which contains their wares. They are always ready for a start, and +glad to be allowed to follow almost any whither in the wake of a ship. I +should think they might be rated amongst the most honest of their +compatriots, as they certainly may amongst the most hard-working and +courageous. + +But no such luck had been ours, as to be assigned so pleasant an +adjournment. The longest cruise we had any of us managed to steal, was +perhaps in one of the cutters, as far as what we Englishmen persist in +calling St James's castle--a strange name for Turks to give a place, and +which, in fact, we have devisedly corrupted from their word _sandjeak_. + +At last, one happy day--happy in its result, not in the complexion it +bore at its opening--we positively did receive orders for a start, and +this is the way it came about: The representative of sultanic dignity at +the somewhat retired watering-place of Adalia, was a man prone, like the +greater number of his countrymen, to judge of things altogether in the +concrete. The idea of power could by him be deduced only from present +violence; and without some such sensible manifestations, it became to +him like one of Fichte's "objects," i.e. all moonshine. With regard to +foreign powers, they existed for him, and influenced his government, +only so far as they sent occasionally a ship of war with its suggestive +influence of a frowning broadside to look in his way. They have no very +distinct idea, these gentlemen, of geography, nor of political science; +all thus are sadly out in their estimation of the relative importance of +places. To them the seat of their government is the world; or at least +the place in it of importance second to Constantinople. If they be +passed over in the distribution of our _corps de demonstration_, they +are apt to ascribe the omission to a want of power on our part. Now, +with all their excellencies, it call hardly be denied that they are +sadly apt to presume on any want of power in a neighbour. So it happens +that the unfortunate consuls who are stowed away in the obscurer +establishments, are apt to suffer from their caprice. Should it so +happen that the particular flag over whose interests the consul is +appointed inspector, should not have been displayed in the neighbourhood +lately by any ship of war, the short memory of a pasha is in danger of +forgetting that nation's claim to respect; for any thing that he knows, +it may have been revolutionised or sunk by an earthquake,--at least he +cannot bear the trouble of imagining any other reason for the +non-appearance of its executive ministers, than the obvious one of its +having no ships to send. Thus, in matters of precedence, consuls are apt +sometimes to get snubbed--a point on which, of all others, they are +tender: or in matters of justice, their clients will find themselves +ousted, in spite of the proverbial integrity of the Turkish judges. +Perhaps the readiest way of stumbling on a grievance, is the kind of +thing that gave rise to our visit, where some of the populace presume on +your want of protection, and commit some aggression on your rights as a +man and a brother. This being referred to the authorities, will be apt +to be viewed by them in the light of that consideration which they +happen to be lending at that moment to your nation. Poor fellows! we +must not be hard upon them; nor will we doubt the sound foundation of +the panegyrics which many travellers have pronounced on their honesty. +They are honest, no doubt, so far as they understand the doctrine of the +thing; but the fact is, they do not seem to understand the subject in +the abstract. They have no idea of judging a foreigner's cause, without +reference to considerations of his nationality and personal importance; +and to pronounce readily a decision in favour of one against whom should +lie the preponderance in these particulars, would be to them an +absurdity. We have had occasion lately to be struck with the tone in +which certain writers have spoken on the subject of Mussulman morals. +The first notability about such accounts is, that they are very +different from the reports of their predecessors--of such an accurate +man as Burkhardt for instance; and the second notability, so far as most +of us are concerned, is, that they are contrary to the general consent +of travellers. That there are excellent men, and honest among them, is a +fact; and it is a fact, that in general matters of bargaining, you may +trust to them. But when the idea of probity is carried out, so far as to +imply a view of things comparatively disparaging to Christian morals, it +mounts to an anti-climax, and falls over into the province of nonsense. +The Koran has provided them with much ethical guidance, of which +individual Turks, of any pretence to religion, must be in some degree +observant. But it is not true that the history of such cases, in their +administration of justice, as might have occurred in the court of the +old [Greek: polemarchos], will allow us to conclude that they are in +possession of a rule coercing them to be just and brotherlike towards +the unprotected stranger, abstractly and for justice's sake. Now, with +us you may find many individual rogues, but never a roguish court, nor +tolerated roguish public body. And of this difference between us +Christians and them Turks, it will not be difficult for any one to +supply the reason, who will give himself the trouble to think about it. + +But as I was saying, at Adalia,--the town I mean, not the +province,--lived, with the authority of local governor, a personage +styled a _Caimacan_. This is a person inferior to a regular pasha, +having in fact a sort of acting rank. One remembers this style and title +well, because it puts us in mind of the nicest thing eatable that the +Levant affords--_Caimac_, which is something very like Devonshire cream, +only better. This Caimacan, being a sort of great man's great man, is +apt not to bear his honours meekly. At the precise time of which I +speak, the Sultan was raising considerable levies in different parts of +his dominions, for the benefit of good order among the Albanians. Near +Adalia was a military rendezvous for the forces raised in that +neighbourhood, and the command _pro tempore_ of the new levies was +assigned to the Caimacan. So that the poor man was labouring under an +accession of dignity. + +At Adalia also lived a certain Ionian--from the Seven Islands, friend, +not from Asia--who had been led thither by a speculation in the soap +trade. To judge by the evident want of the article, would have been to +pronounce a most favourable opinion as to the probable result of such +speculation. In fact the man succeeded only too well; he boiled so +successfully, and sold so cheaply, that all the native competitors were +beaten out of the field. The true believers were, of course, indignant +at this conduct of an infidel and a stranger; and as they could not +weather on him in the fair way of trade, they determined to try if they +could not "choke his luff" by a practical expedient. Paying him a visit +one day, they spoiled his stock in trade, broke his gear, gave him a +good thrashing, and told him to take that as a gentle hint of what they +would do if he did not behave himself for the future. The poor fellow +appealed to the Caimacan for satisfaction for the injury done, and for +security against future violence. From this person he received no +assistance, and was left to fight it out as he best could against his +opponents. + +Those dear Ionians! creditable fellow-countrymen are they for us, and +profitable. No people assert more unflinchingly their privilege of +national relationship with ourselves, and thus do we get the credit of +all the rows which they may kick up throughout the Mediterranean. It is +highly amusing to see the style in which they will declare themselves to +be Englishmen, not merely as allies and protected for the time being, +but with the implication of a claim to identity of race. A son of Ithaca +or Zante will talk as if he were a true Saxon. Certainly, the Turks seem +to make little distinction between the races. That the men are under +British protection, is for them sufficient reason for esteeming them to +be Englishmen. Sometimes their classification of races shows an amusing +ignorance of, and indifference to the whole set of national distinctions +among Franks. I remember that all who attended the services of the +British chaplaincy at Smyrna, were called English, though among them +were many who could speak scarcely a word of the language; and so all +who went to the dissenting meeting-house (for they have one there) were +called Americans. + +Our poor soap-boiler being reduced to extremity, having lost his goods, +and being afraid to make a fresh start of it, betook himself for +assistance to the English vice-consul. The office was at that time +filled by a very efficient person--one, moreover, who had for many years +resided in the country, and understood well the language and national +genius. But it so happened that just then a long time had elapsed since +any of our men-of-war had paid a visit to the road-stead and consular +dignity was in a condition of proportional depreciation. The consul, +however, as in duty bound, paid his visit of remonstrance, and laid +before the great man the wrong done within his jurisdiction; whereupon +the Caimacan behaved like any thing but a gentleman, and, far from +promising to remedy the ill done, gave him to understand that he did not +care sixpence for soap-boiler or consul either. Mr ---- had sufficient +knowledge of the people to know that this declaration of opinion was +strictly true, and that the only plan to correct it, would be to prove +himself able to summon an armed force to his assistance. Till they saw +this, nothing would be able to persuade the Adalians that he was not +either deserted by his country, or that his country had not lost the +power to assist him. + +And thus it was that Mr ---- wrote to his chief at Smyrna a description +of the ticklish state of circumstances, and explained that unless +English commercial interests at Adalia were to be suffered to go +altogether to the wall, some strong preservative must be sent thither in +the shape of a stout ship, with a goodly array of long thirty-twos. And +so was it that word came to the good ship Falcon, which thereupon spread +forth her wings, or, in plain language, hoisted her topsails, and set +forth on her conciliatory expedition. Besides that we were delighted to +get away in any direction from the stagnation of Smyrna--a stagnation +affecting air, sea, and society,--it was a recommendation of the cruise +in this particular direction that none of us had ever been there before. +There is little reason why in a general way it should be visited from +one year's end to another,--I mean in the way of business, at least the +business of those who have to distribute their attention throughout +these seas for the interests of general pacification. The place, as we +afterwards found, is not without commerce; but there are no merchants of +our nation except the vice-consul. The advantages of this place as a +trading station, more especially as being a station where he would find +no competitors, had induced him to settle here. And the _prestige_ lent +by the consular name, afforded sufficient inducement for the undertaking +of an office, which, if it be not very lucrative, at any rate involves +the responsibility of no very serious duties. Though now and then a man +in office may forget himself, yet in the long run a consul is sure to be +treated with deference, and to reap considerable commercial advantages +from his position. Be it understood, that here there are other +merchants,--but the indigenous, chiefly Turco-Greek. Besides a single +gentleman who acted as assistant to the vice-consul in his various +duties, we did not find a Frank resident. We heard, indeed, that there +was also an Austrian, but we did not see him, so I suppose that he could +hardly have been of much consequence. + +The weather at first beguiled us with symptoms of a change for the +cooler, and lent to our sails some pleasant breezes as we passed out of +the Gulf of Smyrna. As we sped onward, things became even better, and +especially delighted us with their aspect off Rhodes. It is a singular +fact, well known to those who know the locality, that the day scarcely +occurs in the year when this island is afflicted with a calm. For some +reason it so happens that, pass when you will, you are pretty sure to +find a stiff breeze blowing. One of the points of the island, which +thrusts out into the sea a long and low promontory, shows that the +natives here know how to turn this physical provision to good effect. +This point is in the most curious way studded with windmills, and from +this its garniture has received its name in our geography. These poor +machines rarely know an hour's quiet, but continually throw about their +long arms in what, from a little distance, seems to be a mere confusion +of material. Past this exquisitely beautiful island, of whose strand the +recollection is fraught with associations of unfeverish existence, we +sped rapidly before the breeze, which almost made us regret the land we +were leaving. Truly should we have regretted it, had we but known the +breezeless condition on which we were about to enter! For some +four-and-twenty hours before we arrived at our port, the weather changed +eminently for the worse. The feathery vanes stirred not, and the canvass +flapped against the mast, as the old girl rolled lumpingly in the swell. +She was a dear old ship as ever floated, but like all other things +sublunary, animate, or inanimate, was not without her faults. Of these +the worst, nay, the only one to speak of, was the habit of rolling about +most viciously whenever she had a chance. The sun poured upon us such a +flood of heat, that awnings became a joke. Things were so thoroughly +heated during the day, that the night scarcely afforded sufficient hours +to cool them down, for a fresh start next morning. We began almost to +question whether we had not changed bad for worse; and very soon made up +our minds that without any mistake we had. We arrived at this +conclusion, as the port of our destination hove in sight. It was towards +evening that we crept in to our anchorage, through an atmosphere +scarcely sufficiently alive to give us motion, and so almost glowing +that it seemed to burn us as we passed. The place was wrapped in +breathless stillness: no boats came forth to try a market with us, or to +gratify their curiosity; and no sounds issued from the shore, which +might have been deemed almost unhaunted of men. + +When daylight revealed the features of the place, we perceived the +pretensions of Adalia in the way of the picturesque to be of a high +order. Neither was there wanting matter of admiration even in the night, +though we were suffering too much discomfort to be easily pleased by +mere pictures. The shore, in its way, afforded an unusual spectacle. The +town stands on high ground, and on both sides the line of coast is +formed by lofty cliffs, stretching far away into the distance. What of +the beauties of these depended on the light of day for development, were +reserved for our edification on the morrow. But the good people had +ornamented their country just then in a fashion more appropriate to +embellish the night than the day. Enormous fires were blazing on the +cliffs, which skirted the bay up which we were advancing,--if we may +apply so familiar a word to the conflagrations that met our sight. The +most active spirit of incendiarism had been afloat, for entire woods +were seen in a state of burning. We never discovered whether this +destruction was by accident, or of set purpose: if it were done by way +of obtaining charcoal, the price of that article one would think must +have fallen in the market. But as these fires blazed away in the clear +dry air of the night, they lit up the bay, and almost threw upon the +waters the dark shadow of our masts and yards. At first, when at some +distance, we had been disposed to account for the lurid appearance of +the heavens, by supposing that distance and refraction had effected a +cheat upon our senses. When we came nearer, the only thing we could +suppose was, that the whole country, was in the course of destruction. +It is hard to say whether the distance at which we anchored from the +shore was not too great to allow of the production on us of any sensible +effect from these fires: that we had any misgiving on the subject may +serve to show that they were enormous. I know that at the time we made +up our minds, that to their agency was to be attributed some portion at +least of the heat that oppressed us. The wind came off in gusts of +overpowering heat; not with that tepid influence that grumblers +sometimes denounce as a hot wind, but with the full sense of having come +from a baker's oven. At least we had a grand sight for our pains, and +therefrom reaped some consolation as we clustered panting on the deck. + +I remember to have seen something in this way before, though on a +smaller scale, and that was in the island of Euboea. Once in my life, +I had a very near view of the recent scene of such a conflagration in +one of the smaller Greek islands. It was in taking, according to our +custom, a ramble right across the land, that we came on no less a +collection of embers than the _debris_ of an entire forest, which lay +smouldering at our feet. I know that, having commenced from curiosity +the work of picking our way through the ashes, we found the undertaking +more arduous than we quite fancied, and that our trowsers and shoes +would afterwards have fetched but little in Monmouth-street. The Greeks, +it is understood, light up their bonfires, partly by way of amusing +themselves, and partly by way of hinting displeasure at things in +general. Of course, it is quite obvious, that any party who wish to +prove a minister's rule to be calamitous, assists their argument by +increasing the sum of calamity. + +But night with its miseries at length was passed. During its course, the +thermometer did not get below 90°. What it reached in the daytime it +boots not to record--and signifies less, because when the sun is above +us, we bargain for a hot day in summer. But oh! those nights, when by +every precedent we should have had cooling dews, and refreshing air! + +However, the sun rose, and the people on shore rose too. There was no +tumultuous rushing forth in boats to have a look at the new comers, as +there is so apt to be on the arrival of a man-of-war. A quiet little +dingy would steal out, manned by three or four mongrel-looking Greeks, +and row round us at a respectful distance. The fact is, that the people +had got scent of the reason of our coming: and as a reclamation of right +is by them supposed to be incompatible with any thing but an angry mood, +they were afraid to approach us. The town itself we perceived to be a +most ill-conditioned looking place. Harbour there is none--at least none +available in a breeze from seaward. A heavy sea sets right in, and must +strand any thing found anchored here. We were afterwards told, that in +the bad weather of the winter before our coming, the sea had washed some +vessels right up into the town. This want of a harbour is the most +serious drawback to the commerce of Adalia. It is, in every respect +except this, adapted to serve as the general emporium of the interior. +Even at present, notwithstanding its disadvantages, a good deal of +business is done here: but ships can never lie before the town in peace, +nor commence loading and unloading, with the confidence that they shall +be able to get through their work without having first to slip cable and +be off. But the town must be in other hands before so arduous a work is +likely to be undertaken. + +A most unserviceable rumble of a fort mounted guard over the town, in a +position little likely to be of use in repelling an attack by sea. +Perhaps it might have been available as a maintainer of good order in +the town, should the spirit of insubordination haply spring up therein: +but we could hardly have credited the walls as possessed of sufficient +stability to stand the shock of a report. We saw the artillery-men, busy +as bees, at their guns--evidently standing by to return the salute which +we were expected to give. But this would have been far too civil +treatment for them, while matter of dispute between us remained. We +maintained a dignified silence. + +It was not long before Mr ---- found his way off to us, and put us up to +the actual state of affairs. It seemed that little Pedlington was in an +uproar. The whole of the Adalian public were in a state of lively +commotion. Of course, as they had bullied loudly, they were abject in +concession. Those more immediately concerned in the outrage on the +soap-boiler, would have infallibly absconded, had not the strong arm of +the law laid an embargo upon them, and laid them by as scapegoats in the +first instance. The prevailing opinion about us was, that we should +certainly blow the town about their ears, but that still all must be +essayed to conciliate us. The Caimacan himself, the great man who had +given rise to the remonstrance on our part, had taken himself off, and +left his deputy in command. This was professedly to look after some +troops that he was recruiting in the neighbourhood, but we gave him the +credit of practising a dodge to get out of the way of an awkward +business. A striking peculiarity of the business was, that no doubt +seemed any longer to be maintained as to the issue of the negotiation. +The question of right and wrong was no longer considered as being open; +but the verdict was already presumed to be given against those whom we +challenged as offenders. + +It was thought advisable to pay some attention to appearances on the +occasion of our interview with the governor. No suit prospers with them, +in a general way, unless backed by good personal appearance. For this +reason we mustered a strong party of officers, in imposing costume; and +by way of evincing our determination, proceeded with as little delay as +possible to the divan. The usual motley group of starers gathered round +us at the landing, and escorted us up the rugged street to the _palais +de justice_. They all seemed to be affected with the spirit of fear, +except our partisans, who were in a state of exultation from the like +cause. Two individuals in particular were amusingly and palpably +possessed with the spirit of triumph, and they were the two attendants +of the vice-consul. These men were worthy of notice on other accounts, +but singularly remarkable in respect of the effectual manner in which +they seemed to have divested themselves of national prejudices. They +were enthusiastic fellows, who had not merely let out their services to +the representative of England, but seemed fairly to have made over to +him the allegiance of heart and head; retaining no sympathy with their +own countrymen. Thus did they seem to rejoice eminently in our coming, +and the consequent humbling of the local authorities. They were two +strapping fellows--as janissaries, to be any thing worth, should always +be--and marshalled us the way in grand style. + +The unhappy rabble seemed to be suffering the pangs of most cruel +privation when the cortège arrived at the residence of justice, and they +found themselves left in the lurch at the threshold. In such mood you +see a London mob flattening their noses against the panes of a chemist's +window, or hanging outside of a replete magistrate's office. One comfort +is, that the economy of a Turkish _menage_ perfectly admits of the +establishment of a line of scouts, even from the very presence-chamber: +so that earliest intelligence may be conveyed to the gentlemen without. +Mr ---- gave us by the way a few hints as to etiquette, and engaged to +prompt us as occasion might demand. I have said already that he was +perfectly up to conversation in the native language and might have well +played the part of interpreter. One might might have supposed that this +would have been taken by the people rather as a compliment; and that it +would have been considered creditable to a foreign agent to have +acquired a knowledge of the vernacular of the people with whom he had +constantly to treat. But the contrary is the fact. To speak for one's +self is far too simple a mode of conducting business: and he who would +preserve his dignity in any consideration, must retain the services of a +dragoman. To conduct an important interview without the intervention of +this functionary would convey to the Turks an idea of slovenly +negligence. A good thing is it when the agent, commercial or diplomatic, +possesses sufficient knowledge of the language to enable him to check +the version of the interpreter, who otherwise is apt to take liberties +with his text. However, we were in this case quite safe: first, in the +assurance of Mr ---- that he would risk his life on his dragoman's +veracity; and next, because it was clear that no word could pass which +was not likely to be reinterpreted to us. + +We marched into the room, and made our salaams-some of us inconsiderable +ones very truculently, for we were very irate; and on all such occasions +a man's indignation rises in exact proportion to the degree in which he +has nothing to say to the matter. The deputy Caimacan was sitting on a +divan at the top of the room, and rose politely as we entered. There +were too many of us to find room in the divan, so we were scattered +about as best we could light on places. The main difficulty was to get a +place that looked clean enough to sit upon; for a dirtier palace I never +saw, nor a more, beggarly. One cannot say whether the head governor had +taken all his traps with him when he went a-soldiering; but if what we +saw really was his establishment, it is likely enough that he had gone +away to avoid exposing his poverty. + +"_Hosh Gueldin_," said the Turk; "you are welcome." + +And now was to be seen a fine contrast between Oriental apathy and +British energy. The Turk sank back on his seat, as if disengaged from +all care, and not quite up to the trouble of entertaining his morning +visitors. The English Captain sat bolt upright, "at attention," and +opened the business of the _séance_ at once. + +"Tell the Governor--" + +"Stop a moment," said Mr ----, "that's not the way to begin." + +"What is the way then?" + +"First, you must smoke a pipe--there's one coming this way. You would +shock all their notions of propriety by entering abruptly on business. +We must have first a little talk about things in general." + +Just then the Governor roused up, and addressed to the Captain, through +the dragoman, some observation on the weather or the crops. Then came a +servant with a chibouque and coffee: and the head negotiators were soon +co-operatively engaged. + +And no bad way of beginning business either; especially in cases where +there may be a little awkward rust to rub off. The only objection to the +amusement in this case was, that it was not general--pipes being +afforded only to the heads of departments. This was a style of treatment +so different from all our experience, that it left me more fully +persuaded than ever that the Caimacan had walked off with his goods and +chattels, not forgetting his pipes. + +This fumatory process proceeded for some time, almost in silence. It +afforded the several parties opportunity to settle the speeches they +intended to make, and certainly must have been useful in the way of +allaying the angry passions of their several minds. We, who had none of +the business on our consciences, and had come merely to make up the +show, employed this interval in taking cognizance of the localities. The +household appointments were sadly inferior to those we had been +accustomed to see; and especially must this condemnation fall on the +servants, who were a most dirty, ill-conditioned set. They stood +clustered about the doorway in groups, looking furtively at us, and +whispering counsel. + +"Halloo!" said Mr ----, "they have determined to be prepared for +contingencies. There are the culprits, I see, in waiting for the +bastinado, if such should be your demand." + +And there, sure enough, they had the poor fellows just outside, waiting +to be scourged for the propitiating of our wrath. Evidently they were +little aware that the affair had changed altogether its complexion; and +that the culpability had in our eyes been transferred from the original +rioters to the protectors of the riot. + +When, eventually, the signal was given for commencing business, it was a +fine thing to see how beautifully submissive the deputy had become. He +began by declaring that he could not arrange the matter, but must refer +it to his chief, and wanted much to put off the discussion till that +functionary should arrive. On this it was hinted to him, that it would +have been polite and proper had that gentleman remained in the way to +settle the row, which had occurred by his own fault, but that we could +not await his return. Either must they undertake at once to make full +reparation for the wounded dignity of the Consul, and for the injurious +treatment of the Ionian, or they would see what they should see. It +needed little pressing on our part to break down the feint which had +been set up by way of opposition. The deputy soon declared that all +should be as we wished. He still stuck to his declaration, that the +actual settlement of the business was beyond his province, and that he +must wait for the sanction of his commanding officer. But meanwhile he +took upon himself to declare the terms on which things might be +considered virtually settled; and they were, that we were to have +everything our own way. This result was obtained by us without recourse +had to any thing like bullying; and we were able, in this instance, to +behave in a more civilised manner, because we were backed by so much +real authority, and show of present power. But little doubt is there, +that, however unfavourable the inference with respect to Turkish sense +and honesty, the mode most commonly to be recommended in dealings with +them, is by _in terrorem_ proceeding. They cannot understand the +co-ordinate existence, of power and moderation. Very good fun will +sometimes be enacted by the knowing for the cowing of a pasha; and in +almost any case the only fear of _échouance_ is where there may exist +too much modesty. But only bully hard, and you are tolerably sure to +gain your point. It is by no means necessary that your arguments should +carry the cogent force of soundness. Appearances are what weigh chiefly +with those whose habits of thinking do not dispose them to discuss +argument. One sharp-witted fellow that I knew brought to successful +issue a decisive experiment on the readiness of pashas to be taken in by +mere sound. He went into the vice-regal presence, attended by a dragoman +whom he had previously instructed in the subject-matter to be +propounded--some question of redress for grievance. It was necessary +that he should say something on the occasion, and afford the appearance +of telling the dragoman what to say: but as this person already knew his +lesson, it was not necessary that what he said should be to him +intelligible. Nothing occurred to him as likely to be more effective in +delivery than the celebrated speech of Norval about the Grampian hills; +which accordingly he recited with due emphasis, standing up to give the +better effect to the scene. The end desired was fully attained. The +pasha opened wide eyes, as the actor grew excited, and was visibly +affected by the assumption of towering passion. He soon began to try to +pacify him, and beg him to be easy. "Inshalla! all should be as he +wished." The upshot of our argument with the deputy Caimacan was, that +he would send immediately to his chief, for a confirmation of the +pacification between us, and that meanwhile we were to amuse ourselves +as well as we could. But for all we saw, amusement was one of the good +things not easily to be had at Adalia. It is so deeply retired in +uncivilisation, and so wanting withal in the excitements of energetic +barbarism, that human life is there tamed down to the most passionless +condition. It was, too, notwithstanding the season, a time of unusual +commercial enterprise just then. It was the year of the murrain in +Egypt, which destroyed so enormous a proportion of their cattle; and +Mehemet Ali was sending in all directions to purchase horses, asses, and +kine. A large corvette of his came in while we were there, on this +service. She had landed her guns, and was filling her deck with +livestock. There was also a deal of business going on just then in the +timber line. But little evidence of this brisk state of the markets was +given by the people. A good many visitors certainly came off to see us; +but that was rather a reason why we should have accused the populace of +idleness. We were struck with the appearance of many of the old fellows +who honoured us with visits. They retained, without exception, the +orthodox dress and beard of the old school. Among them were a great +number of the green turbans, which mark the sacred person of the +"Hadji." Such a clustering of these distinguished characters made us +fancy at first that Adalia itself must be invested with the idea of some +peculiar sanctity. But we found that these gentlemen were merely _en +route_, tarrying at Adalia, a great point of embarkation, for +opportunity to pursue their journey. The place is in one of the great +high roads to the Hedjaz: and of the swarms who pass through it every +year, many pilgrims have not sufficient funds to defray the expense of +travelling either way. It then becomes a work of charity for the more +opulent of the faithful to speed them on the journey. But that they +depend on such means of travelling is reason sufficient to account for +long in their line of locomotion, and for their congregating here in +considerable numbers. Of all places likely to maintain the constant +infection of plague, this must be one of the first: for notoriously +among no people is the disease so rife as among the pilgrims. + +The worthy consul did his best to embellish the days of our sojourn with +pleasurable episodes. Society there was not likely to be any; but yet +such as, for want of better, they had, he undertook to show us. He +really seemed very much obliged to us for our opportune visit, and said +that it would be the making of him. It certainly did seem to be quite +necessary to the maintaining of the dignity of his office. One +invitation we had from a merchant of the place, a man whom they +described as being very rich and of great influence; and a plan was laid +for our having a picnic in the country. There is a place in the +neighbourhood of the town which has been prepared expressly for the use +of those who make rural excursions. A thick grove of trees keeps off the +sun, and soft turf lends a seat to the revellers. We could make out the +top of the trees from the anchorage, for the country is of an elevated +character, hanging out on lofty cliffs the different features of its +panorama. The effect produced by this arrangement of the scenery is +highly beautiful. It has in profusion one element of the beautiful, and +that is the feature of cascade. There is in one point a congress of +waterfalls, whereat may be counted no less than nine separate streams, +which pour down their abundance from the cliffs into the sea. The good +consul and his satellites bore us pretty constant company; and of great +service they were in preserving order among the motley crew that +constantly thronged our decks. We did not like to qualify the good +report we had so far gained and maintained, by any exhibition of +harshness towards the mob. But the sturdy janissary of Mr ---- thought +nothing of laying his stick across a fellow's shoulders, by way of +reminder to behave himself. I must say that many of them deserved it, +and for their sakes can but hope that they profited by the attention. + +Mr ---- had two men in attendance upon him, without whom he never +stirred abroad. They were brothers, but filled situations of different +rank. One was dragoman, a post of which the occupation entitled him to +the consideration of a gentleman; the other was merely henchman or +janissary, of which dignity the allocation is in the kitchen. I remember +that it pained me to see one brother walk in to dinner, while the other +poor fellow had to keep guard without. But they seemed well used to the +enforcement of the distinction, and to find therein nothing of +invidiousness. Fine fellows were they both, and highly lauded by their +master. There is surely something extraordinary in these instances, +where men are brought to devote themselves implicitly to a foreign +service, in the heart of their country, and amid the full play of +national prejudices. That they really are faithful followers, is I +believe beyond doubt; and that sometimes under trying circumstances. +With these two individuals especially, we had so much intercourse, that +we were enabled to see how admiration for the English entered into the +main current of their feelings. It so happened that we had come here to +the very place where that early victim to the zeal of travel, Mr +Daniels, had shortly before met his doom. While following in the track +of Mr Fellowes, he caught the fatal Xanthian fever; and after many +relapses died here. That these men were very kind and attentive to him +may be argument only of their humanity. But there was something in the +emotion with which they spoke of him, that betokened a sense of +fellowship, beyond what men of such differing creeds are apt to feel for +a travelling stranger. They spoke of sitting up with him at night, +giving him his medicine, and weeping for him, when there remained no +room for active solicitude. The idea of dying amidst strangers in a +foreign land, with no familiar face at the bed-side, is a desolation +whose thought cannot pass over the spirit without beclouding its +sunniness. And yet we may rely upon it, that amongst those most +affectionately tended and most generously wept, have been they who have +met their last hour under such circumstances. Human hearts all vibrate +in harmony to one chord: in the good this sympathy is ready; in the bad +it is dulled; but never while life and hope remain, can the silver chord +be said to be cut. And so it is, that the same image of the forlorn, +which, as affecting any that we love, appeals at once to the deep wells +of compassion, will cause the same feeling of compassion to thrill with +the remotest stragglers of the family of Adam. It is not a matter of +reasoning, but an instinct. There is in the sight of helpless suffering +a power to disarm human ferocity. And if that be the gentlest +death-pillow that is breathed upon by the prayer and lighted by the eye +of family love, depend upon it that far from the ungentlest is that, +whose presence has brought to rude and rough natures the putting off of +their roughness, and the recognising of the sweet faculty of compassion. +Happy is that desolation, even in the last hour, which can awaken the +heaven-like eagerness to be to the dying one a minister from his far-off +home! A man might be happy so to die, that he might light up so much of +heaven within a human breast. + +Both these _attachés_ of the consulate were men of note. The dragoman +had been captain of a troop of cavalry in the service of Mehemet Ali, +and on some quarrel with his commanding officer had left the service and +kingdom. He was a person of polished manners, and some education, and +thus enabled to produce agreeably in conversation the results of his +experience of many lands and people. He rather astonished us with the +extent to which he carried _jeune France_ principles, that seem so +entirely incompatible with the holding of Mahomedanism. But wonderful it +is to see how the French spirit circulates in the most apathetic +societies, seeming to find in them a latent vitality suited to its +purpose. The manners of a Mussulman are so stereotyped, and his subjects +of conversation so provided for by law, that it seemed quite an anomaly +to see this Turk drinking wine after dinner, and talking like a man of +the world. It would not seem that such an effect on the personal +character is the invariable result of educating a Turk in Paris, though +such an effect is exactly what we might expect. I have met a native of +Constantinople, who had brought back with him from France only the +language and the personal deportment, retaining withal the +anti-reforming spirit of his orthodox brethren. But this spirit of +resistance to innovation is fast fading away; and as innovation once +begun here must lead to revolution, it is not difficult to foresee that +a few more years only shall have passed, when the character of the Turk +will have become historical, and the scenes that at present embellish +their corner of the world, will have to be sought for in the +descriptions of pen and pencil. Whether the influence emanate from the +throne, or whether the court be following the popular metropolitan +movement, it is difficult to say. But among them is assuredly at work +the spirit of change, that must shortly carry away the mouldering +edifice of their present institutions. This is something too vetust to +abide the shock of any agitation. Let us hope that their changes may be +successively biassed towards the better: may they acquire the urbanity +of our great masters in elegance, without their profligacy; and if they +reject Mahomedanism, may it be to receive in exchange something better +than mere infidelity. + +The brother of the _ci-devant_ captain was a quiet, unassuming fellow, +who wanted language to communicate with us freely. Nevertheless he +managed to interest us much, with an account of the sufferings and +trials of his youth. They were by birth Moreote Turks; and in the +revolution of that country, when first the Greeks arose against their +Turkish masters, (for really one must particularise in talking of Greek +revolutions,) they had suffered the loss of all their protecting +kindred, and hardly, children as they were, by some kindly intervention, +been themselves saved. It is a sad thing, but a truth, that in this +exterminating war, the cold-blooded massacreing was not all on one side. +The horror and hatred of these deeds have, with their infamy, rested +chiefly on the Turks, because theirs was the power to exceed in +enormity; but the black veil of guilt rests on both sides of the strife. +Still, however blameable the Greeks may be, for the cruelty committed on +occasion, they were far from having power to work the enormous +destruction of harmless life, whose memory still weighs on the Turkish +power, and whose record is still extant in the evidence of ruined and +dispeopled cities. But a short time before coming to Adalia, we had +visited the island of Scio--that island which once was the garden of the +Levant, and the storehouse of her riches. Even now, the great majority +of the Greek merchants who are so prosperous a body in London, are +Sciotes; and in those days they had pretty well all the commerce of the +Levant in their hands. They delighted themselves in adorning their +beautiful island with the artifices which money can command to the +decorating of nature. At present a mass of ruins defaces that lovely +spot. One is disposed to wonder that the Turks have never been at the +pains to clear away the wreck of the town, if only for the sake of +removing the monument of their cruelty. Mere selfish motives might +induce them to be at that pains, and to restore this island to its +former fitness for the habitations of the rich. At present it is one +wide ruin; noble streets are there, with the shells of their houses +remaining, as they were left in the day of massacre and pillage. The few +inhabitants are stowed away in the one or two odd rooms of the old +mansions that remain; being now reduced to such poverty that they have +had neither spirit nor money to build for themselves; and probably +finding it more congenial to the present spirit of their fortunes to +roost among the bats and owls, rather than in trim streets. One +occurrence gave us much pleasure, because it gave the lie to a story +which has many abettors. It is said that when the garrison in the +fortress, and the fleet before the town, were promoting the havoc, the +English consul, from some punctilio on the subject of neutrality, +refused shelter to the miserables who fled to his threshold. One old +woman, in the story of her sufferings, gave us a full contradiction to +this most incredible tradition. She had invited us into her dwelling to +look at her wares, in the shape of conserves and purses--a strange +combination, but nevertheless the articles by the sale of which they eke +out their living. We were fully consoled for the trouble of passing over +and through the _debris_ of some half-dozen houses which lay between us +and her domicile. It came out that she herself had been saved by flying +to the English consulate. It was a comfort to hear this--and to hear it +in a way that involved the fact of an indefinite number of refugees +having found the same shelter. Many rejoice to say that the French +consul was the only efficient protector in that day of horror; and of +these times, though so recent, it is not easy always to get such correct +information as may sustain a contradiction of popular report. + +In a country of such limited resources in the way of amusement, it was +not very easy for our zealous friends to cater for us, during the long +days that we had to await the answer from the Caimacan. Riding was out +of the question, and there were no antiquities within reach. Thus were +we cut off from the two great resources of men in our position. But they +played their part of entertainers hospitably and well. They told us long +stories of the courts, and of what was to be seen in actual service in +the camp of the Egyptian viceroy. Above all, they did us good by showing +how thoroughly happy the whole party had been rendered by our coming. We +were only afraid that they might become a little too bumptious on the +strength of it, and be after giving us another job. But they did more +than simply bear us company; they bore us to the cool grove, which I +have said we could descry from the deck of our ship, there to be +introduced to certain worthies, and to make _kef_ in their company. +Nothing to my mind comes up to an _al fresco_ entertainment--in proper +season and country, be it understood; for an English gipsy party is a +very different affair. + +Our host conceived it to be a duty incumbent on him to develop, on this +occasion, the full power of the resources of Adalia. We should have been +far better satisfied if he had contented himself with doing things in a +smaller way; but he was bent on magnificence. It was quite treat enough +to lie on the soft turf, with the thick shade above, and to allow the +hours to pass away as they led on evening. But he had been at the +trouble to retain a band of musicians for our sakes. Such a set they +were!--surpassing, in discordant prowess, the worst street musicians +among our beggar melodists. It is quite surprising that invention has so +long slumbered with these native artistes. With Musard concerts and +Wilhelm music-meetings all around them, it is wonderful that they do not +catch the note of something better than their villanous mandolins and +single-noted pipes. Does any one need to be told what a mandolin is? It +is something very different, let me assure him, from the ideal +instrument of Moore's Melodies. Not even the lovely maidens that Moore +paints could render tolerable a performance upon it; whereas it is made +to resound by some especially ugly fellow, whose rascality of +appearance, is relieved by no touch of the poetic. I did once hear a +Turco-Greek lady perform, and on a more civilised instrument--a lady of +high reputation as a performer on the guitar and a vocalist. And seldom +has the spirit of romantic preparation received a more sudden chill than +did mine on that occasion. Nothing could be more outrageously absurd +than the whole thing was--accompaniment and song. I never afterwards was +solicitous to hear an Oriental's musical performance; and am quite +satisfied, that in them dwells no musical faculty, creative or +perceptive: or that at least it is in a dormant state. + +These musicians began with a symphony on the full band--mandolins +leading, drums doing bass, and the whole lot of ugly fellows screeching +forth what might have been esteemed air or accompaniment, as the case +might be. That a sorry musical effect was produced will surprise no one +who considers the build of the most musical of their instruments. The +mandolin is by way of being a guitar, or banjo--only in a very small way +indeed. Nothing has been added to the idea since first Mercury stumbled +on the original _testudo_--indeed, I should guess that the dried sinews +of a tortoise would give out a far purer sound than the jingling wires +with which the mandolin is mounted. I have sometimes stood at the door +of a _café_, or, to give it the real name [Greek: kapheneion], and +listened in wonder to the strains of some minstrel holding forth within. +The wonder was, not that the man should play egregiously ill, but that +the effect of good music should be produced by his evil playing. The +people were evidently excited to sorrow when the attempt was at a +mournful strain, and to ardour when the lilt took a loftier flight. To +me who stood by, the difference of intention on the part of the +performer was hardly discernible; indeed to be recognised only by the +occasional catching of some familiar word in the burden of the song. The +same observation may apply to the current Greek poetry. There can be no +mistake in the conclusion, that it produces the effect of real poetry on +the people, urging them in the direction whither works the imagination +of the poet. But men of taste have come to, and can come to, but one +decision on the judgment of Romaic poetasters. The spirit of poetry has +died out of, and is become extinct from the genius of their tongue. It +is but the enthusiasm of by-gone days, the inkling of Attic glory, that +lingers about the circumstances of their modern productions, and cheats +men with the mere similarity of idiom. Poetry is of universal +application, and were the pretensions of the modern Greek genuine, his +productions would touch the hearts of the poetic of other lands. + +These fellows who entertained us on this occasion, struck a good deal of +enthusiasm out of their jingle,--enthusiasm to themselves, be it +remarked, and not to us. I saw them grow sad in face, while the strain +proceeded at a slow pace, and the _voce di canto_ degenerated into a +more lugubrious howl than ever. By these tokens, I judged them to be +singing some tale of sorrow, and so it seemed they were. The gentleman +who performed for us the part of Chorus, gave us to wit, that they were +lamenting the fall of Algiers, and imprecating maledictions on the head +of the French. This they evidently considered a delicate and appropriate +attention to us as Englishmen. I was only surprised to find they entered +so far into the family distinctions of the Franks. There was some heart, +too, in the manner in which they gesticulated and declaimed; and I have +little doubt but that they were in earnest--especially if any of these +happened to have friends or relations down that way, who had been roused +out of house and home by the Gallic Avatar. When they were tired with +singing, or perhaps presumed that they had therewith tired us, they took +to playing the fool. Not merely in a general sense, in which they may be +said to have been so engaged all along; but with heavy effort, and under +the express direction of a professional master of the ceremonies. The +Adalian jester was a tall ugly fellow, who had considerable power of +comic expression in his face, but whose forte lay in a cap of fantastic +device. It was made of the skin of some animal, whose genus I will not +venture to guess; and had been contrived in such fashion that the tail +hung over the top, and whisked about at the caprice of the wearer. This +was a never-failing source of amusement to the performer himself, as +well as to the native bystanders. As he bobbed his head up and down, and +ran after this tail, the people burst into peals of laughter. They were +quite taken up with the exhibition, except when they stole a moment now +and then for a peep to see how the Frank visitors were amused with their +wit. Besides this, the jester had a number of practical jokes, such as +coming quietly along-side of some unsuspecting person, and catching hold +of his leg, barking loudly the while, so as to make him think that some +dog had bitten him. But this part of the performance was decidedly +coarse, and did not improve our idea of the civilisation of the place. A +good deal of sketching was going on in the course of this day; and the +visages of some of these musicians, and especially of the jester, and of +a blind old choragus, have been handed down to the posterity of our +affectionate friends. We had a visit this day of a gentler kind. A Greek +lady, the owner of considerable landed property in the place, came with +her youthful daughter to interchange civilities with us. She was a +plain, almost ugly old woman; but, like nine out of ten of all women +extant, was of kind and _feminine_ disposition. Moreover, like the rest +of the ladies, she was very fond of talking; but, on this particular +occasion, unhappily could speak no single word that would convey meaning +to us. Still it was not to be expected that she could hold her tongue; +so she squatted down by us, and talked, perhaps all the faster because +she had the conversation all to herself. Her daughter was a young lady, +whom by appearance in England, you would call somewhere in her teens; +but, hereaway they are so precocious that one is constantly deceived in +guessing their age. She would have been pretty if she had been clean; +and was abundantly and expensively ornamented. Sometimes we hear it +figuratively said of a domestic coquette, that she carries all her +property on her back. These Greeks must be well off, if it may not +sometimes be so said with propriety of them. They have a plan of +advertising a young lady's assets, in a manner that must be most +satisfactory to fortune-hunters, and prevent the mistakes that with us +constantly foil the best-laid plans. They turn a girl's fortune into +money, and hang it--it, the fortune proper--the [Greek: poion] and the +[Greek: poson]--about her neck. They do not buy jewels worth so many +hundreds or tens--but transpierce the actual coin, and of them compose a +necklace of whose value there can be no doubt, and whose fashion is not +very variable. This may be called a fair and above-board way of doing +things. The swain, as he sits by the beloved object, may amuse himself +by counting the number of precious links in the chain that is drawing +him into matrimony, and debate within himself, on sure data, the +question whether or no he shall yield to the gentle influence. There +would not have been much doubt about the monetary recommendations of +this young lady, for she was abundantly gilt, as became the daughter of +one reputed so rich as the old lady. Poor girls! It makes one sad to +look upon them, brought up with so little idea of what is girlish and +beautiful; to see them ignorant yet sophisticated, bejeweled and +unwashed. This poor child was decked out in the most absurd manner, and +sat for admiration most palpably. She also sat for something else, which +was her picture. This was taken by several of the party, so much to the +satisfaction of mother and daughter, that the old lady insisted on +taking her turn as model. We invariably found them pleased with the +productions of our art in these cases, and satisfied of the correctness +of the likeness. The only objections they would occasionally make, would +refer to the pretermission of some such thing as a tassel in the cap. +The fidelity of the likeness they took implicitly on trust. + +I have said we could not talk to this old lady, Greek though she was, +furnished though some of us were with the language of her compatriots. +The deficiency was on her part--not on ours. She could not speak one +single word of her own language. And so it is, that of all the Greeks of +Adalia, not one can converse in the language of their fathers. Separated +from their countrymen, they have become almost a distinct race; and, +losing that language of which they have no practice, have learnt to use +as their own the vernacular of the land in which they are immigrants of +such antique standing. They talk Turkish--live almost like Turks; and by +their religion only are distinguished from their neighbours. For +religious purposes they use their own language: and, by consequence, +understand no single word of the ritual or lessons. This is certainly a +singular national position--impossible, except from religious +prevention. It is just the reverse of what may be seen elsewhere: for +instance, in the mountains of Thessaly you find a colony of Germans, +who, though completely shut in by the people of the land, and holding +intercourse with none other, remain foreigners and Germans, resisting +the tendency to amalgamation. So in Sicily you find the _Piana della +Grecia_, where the original Greek colonists have kept their language and +customs in their integrity. But where else, save in this one spot, will +you find people who, after having imbibed the influences of the country +to the extent of adoption of its language, have been able to resist +amalgamation with its denizens in every respect? + +By the bye, these people have opened a sort of royal road to the +acquisition of the Turkish language. The orthography of this language is +a most vexed and perplexed affair. Those who have made the attempt to +master its difficulties may say something in its vituperation; but the +practice of many of those who are well acquainted therewith, says a +great deal more. These Greeks, for instance, though they have adopted +this language as their own, and have been accustomed in no other to lisp +to their nurses, have altogether discarded the orthography. They speak +as do the natives, but write in their own character; accommodating the +flexible capabilities of their alphabet to the purposes of Turkish +orthoepy. Thus have you the means of reading Turkish in a familiar +character, which also has the advantage of presenting your words in a +definite form. The real Turkish alphabet is any thing but definite; at +least to one within any decent term of years of his commencing the +study. This is a mode of teaching which I have known to be insisted on +by at least one good master: though of course the man of any ambition +would regard this byway to knowledge as merely a step preliminary in the +course. + +This was not the only party at which we assisted during our visit. A +rich Greek merchant invited us to enjoy the coolness of evening in his +gardens. It was duly impressed on our minds by the gentleman of the +place that this old fellow was worth his weight in gold. They did say +that his name was good for £150,000--a long figure, certainly, to meet +in such a place. He was a quiet-looking, unpretending person, with very +much the air of a moneyed man. The hope that we had formed of seeing a +display of the youth and fashion of Adalia was disappointed. It was by +all express relaxation of the law of etiquette that we had the +opportunity of seeing even the one or two ladies belonging to the +family. Greeks, in their own country, though exceedingly jealous, and +apt to build up alarms on the slightest foundation, are yet by no means +chary in showing their women. In-doors and out, you will meet them, both +old and young; and perfectly unconstrained and companionable you will +find them. But here the case is far otherwise. They have acquired so +much of Mussulman notions, that they do not allow their women to mix in +society. This is the general rule: more pliant to occasion than the law +of the Turks, which never yields. And not only here is there a strong +feeling on this subject: the same prejudice prevails widely in the +Turco-Greek islands. For instance, in Mytilene, on occasion of taking +that long excursion which I have already mentioned, we observed that all +the women we met were old and ugly. From this observed fact we drew +conclusions unfavourable to the general appearance and presentability of +the Mytilenian ladies. But subsequently we found the reason of the +phenomenon to be, that the young and pretty girls were kept within +doors, and the old ones alone allowed the privilege of walking forth--a +difference of condition that might almost induce the girls of Mytilene +to wish for age and wrinkles. + +They did not, at Adalia, use us quite so ill as to withhold their ladies +from the entertainment. The mother was there and a daughter--a young +lady with the romantic name of Dúdù. With such a name as this she ought +to have been very pretty, and certainly she did not fall far short of +such condition. It was clearly to be perceived that she was unaccustomed +to mix in general society, and that the company of strange men disturbed +her. But she was not ungraceful either in manner or dress, or in her +evident desire to please. The place of our reception was in the central +court, which the best kind of houses preserve--a contrivance which gives +to each of the four sides on which the building is disposed, the +advantages of a pure and thorough current of air. Here we sat drinking +sherbet, and, of course, smoking the unfailing chibouque. The lady +mother was painfully anxious to talk to us, and pretty Miss Dúdù was +seriously bent on listening; but we could not manage to execute a +colloquy. All the civil things imaginable were expressed to us by +gesture, and the young lady came out strong in the presentation of +bouquets. One fortunate man received from her an orange, the only one +remaining at that time in the garden; this we persuaded ourselves must, +in their symbolical language, imply a declaration of some soft interest. +Miss Dúdù would not have been such a very bad _parti_, being, as she +was, the sole heritress of her father's thousands. However, she was, we +understood, engaged already to a youth, who was obeying the cruel law +prevalent in this place, which compels the accepted swain to absent +himself from his inamorata for a long probation. I think the time was +said to be a year; during which no communication must pass between the +parties. Should the first overtures of a suitor be rejected, it is a +settled matter of etiquette, that he never again is to see or speak to +the young lady. This must be likely, we would think, to render a man +cautious in proposing: but certainly it must tend to lessen the number +of eventual old maids, by rendering the young ladies also chary of +saying No, when they mean Yes. On the whole, we can scarcely admire +their matrimonial tactics. We found that we were among a family of +Hádjis. Miss Dúdù was a Hadji, and so were her father and mother. In +their case the place of pilgrimage is Jerusalem, a visit to which +confers on them the respectable title of Hadji for life. This old +gentleman had made a pious use of some of his money, by promoting the +cause of pilgrimage among his less opulent brethren. The desire to tread +the holy soil is common to them all; not only to the religious. These +have their motives; but so also have the disorderly and wicked, who +think that a world of cheating and ill-living is covered over by the +wholesome cloak of pilgrimage. There are also certain less considerable +places of pilgrimage, invested with considerable sanctity, though +inferior in character to the one great rendezvous of the religious. +Health to body seems often the expected result of visits to these +secondary places, to which recourse will frequently be had when medical +aid has failed to be available. Dúdù's father had made himself highly +popular by chartering a vessel, and conveying, for charity's sake, as +many devotees as chose to go on one of these minor expeditions. The +island of Cyprus has a convent of peculiar sanctity, a visit to which is +highly esteemed as an antidote to bodily ills. He gave a great number +the opportunity of testing the truth of the tradition. + +It was not bad fun, after all, tarrying a few days in Adalia: only, by +choice, we would hardly choose that particular season for the excursion. +What between the Consul's gardens, and the old Greek, and the little bit +of business we had upon our hands, we managed to get through the time +pleasantly enough. We saw that we had here a good specimen of the +variety of life commonly described as deadly-lively. Were it not that +they have such a lot of strangers constantly passing through the place, +they might seem to be in danger of a moral_anchylosis_--of falling into +a state of mind so rusty, as to be incapable of direction to any object, +save such as lay before them, in the way of immediate physical +requirement. The few days that we remained there did not afford time +enough for the disease to make much head with us. Indeed, for us it was +a variety of experience, sufficiently stirring for the time, to mark the +ways of a people so deeply buried in imperturbability and incuriosity. + +I think we were not sorry when at last the messenger returned from the +Caimacan, and we found we were in condition to leave the place. The +Consul was set on his legs again, and the English name in better odour +than ever. The _attachés_ of the consulate had taken care that our visit +should fail in no degree of its wholesome influence, for want of their +good word; and I fancy that the town's people thought themselves rather +well off that we left their town standing. We left, too, with the full +reputation for merciful dealing; as we had spared the poor soap-rioters +the infliction of the bastinado. + +And so we sped on our way to Rhodes. + + + + +PACIFIC ROVINGS.[C] + + +We were much puzzled, a few weeks since, by a tantalising and +unintelligible paragraph, pertinaciously reiterated in the London +newspapers. Its brevity equalled its mystery; it consisted but of five +words, the first and last in imposing majuscules. Thus it ran:-- + + "OMOO, by the author of TYPEE." + +With Trinculo we exclaimed, "What have we here? a man or a fish? dead or +alive?" Who or what were Typee and Omoo? Were things or creatures thus +designated? Did they exist on the earth, or in the air, or in the waters +under the earth; were they spiritual or material, vegetable or mineral, +brute or human? Were they newly-discovered planets, nicknamed whilst +awaiting baptism, or strange fossils, contemporaries of the Megatherium, +or Magyar dissyllables from Dr Bowring's vocabulary? Perchance they were +a pair of new singers for the Garden, or a fresh brace of beasts for the +legitimate drama at Drury. Omoo might be the heavy elephant; Typee the +light-comedy camel. Did danger lurk in the enigmatical words? Were they +obscure intimations of treasonable designs, Swing advertisements, or +masonic signs? Was the palace at Westminster in peril? had an agent of +sure of Barbarossa Joinville undermined the Trafalgar column? Were they +conspirators' watchwords, lovers' letters, signals concerted between the +robbers of Rogers's bank? We tried them anagrammatically, but in vain: +there was nought to be made of Omoo; shake it as we would, the O's came +uppermost; and by reversing Typee we obtained but a pitiful result. At +last a bright gleam broke through the mist of conjecture. Omoo was a +book. The outlandish title that had perplexed us was intended to +perplex; it was a bait thrown out to that wide-mouthed fish, the public; +a specimen of what is theatrically styled _gag_. Having but an +indifferent opinion of books ushered into existence by such +charlatanical manoeuvres, we thought no more of Omoo, until, musing +the other day over our matutinal hyson, the volume itself was laid +before us, and we suddenly found ourselves in the entertaining society +of Marquesan Melville, the phoenix of modern voyagers, sprung, it +would seem, from the mingled ashes of Captain Cook and Robin Crusoe. + +Those who have read M. Herman Melville's former work will remember, +those who have not are informed by the introduction to the present one, +that the author, an educated American, whom circumstances had shipped as +a common sailor on board a South-Seaman, was left by his vessel on the +island of Nukuheva, one of the Marquesan group. Here he remained some +months, until taken off by a Sydney whaler, short-handed, and glad to +catch him. At this point of his adventures he commences Omoo. The title +is borrowed from the dialect of the Marquesas, and signifies a rover: +the book is excellent, quite first-rate, the "clear grit," as Mr +Melville's countrymen would say. Its chief fault, almost its only one, +interferes little with the pleasure of reading it, will escape many, and +is hardly worth insisting upon. Omoo is of the order composite, a +skilfully concocted Robinsonade, where fictitious incident is +ingeniously blended with genuine information. Doubtless its author has +visited the countries he describes, but not in the capacity he states. +He is no Munchausen; there is nothing improbable in his adventures, save +their occurrence to himself, and that he should have been a man before +the mast on board South-Sea traders, or whalers, or on any ship or ships +whatever. His speech betrayeth him. His voyages and wanderings +commenced, according to his own account, at least as far back as the +year 1838; for aught we know they are not yet at an end. On leaving +Tahiti in 1843, he made sail for Japan, and the very book before us may +have been scribbled on the greasy deck of a whaler, whilst floating +amidst the coral reefs of the wide Pacific. True that in his preface, +and in the month of January of the present year, Mr Melville hails from +New York; but in such matters we really place little dependence upon +him. From his narrative we gather that this literary and gentlemanly +common-sailor is quite a young man. His life, therefore, since he +emerged from boyhood, has been spent in a ship's forecastle, amongst the +wildest and most ignorant class of mariners. Yet his tone is refined and +well-bred; he writes like one accustomed to good European society, who +has read books and collected stores of information, other than could be +perused or gathered in the places and amongst the rude associates he +describes. These inconsistencies are glaring, and can hardly be +explained. A wild freak or unfortunate act of folly, or a boyish thirst +for adventure, sometimes drives lads of education to try life before the +mast, but when suited for better things they seldom persevere; and Mr +Melville does not seem to us the manner of man to rest long contented +with the coarse company and humble lot of merchant seamen. Other +discrepancies strike us in his book and character. The train of +suspicion once lighted, the flame runs rapidly along. Our misgivings +begin with the title-page. "Lovel or Belville," says the Laird of +Monkbarns, "are just the names which youngsters are apt to assume on +such occasions." And Herman Melville sounds to us vastly like the +harmonious and carefully selected appellation of an imaginary hero of +romance. Separately the names are not uncommon; we can urge no valid +reason against their junction, and yet in this instance they fall +suspiciously on our ear. We are similarly impressed by the dedication. +Of the existence of Uncle Gansevoort, of Gansevoort, Saratoga County, we +are wholly incredulous. We shall commission our New York correspondents +to inquire as to the reality of Mr Melville's avuncular relative, and, +until certified of his corporality, shall set down the gentleman with +the Dutch patronymic as a member of an imaginary clan. + +Although glad to escape from Nukuheva, where he had been held in a sort +of honourable captivity, Typee--the _alias_ bestowed upon the rover by +his new shipmates, after the valley whence they rescued him--was but +indifferently pleased with the vessel on which he left it, and whose +articles he signed as a seaman for one cruise. The Julia was of a +beautiful model, and on or before a wind she sailed like a witch; but +that was all that could be said in her praise. She was rotten to the +core, incommodious, and ill-provided, badly manned, and worse commanded. +American-built, she dated from the Short war, had served as a privateer, +been taken by the British, passed through many vicissitudes, and was in +no condition for a long cruise in the Pacific. So mouldering was her +fabric, that the reckless sailors, when seated in the forecastle, dug +their knives into the dank boards between them and eternity as easily as +into the moist sides of some old pollard oak. She was much dilapidated +and rapidly becoming more so; for Black Baltimore, the ship's cook, when +in want of firewood, did not scruple to hack splinters from the bits and +beams. Lugubrious indeed was the aspect of the forecastle. Landsmen, +whose ideas of a sailor's sleeping-place are taken from the snow-white +hammocks and exquisitely clean berth-deck of a man of war, or from the +rough, but substantial comfort of a well-appointed merchantman, can form +no conception of the surpassing and countless abominations of a +South-Sea whaler. The "Little Jule," as her crew affectionately styled +her, was a craft of two hundred tons or thereabouts; she had sailed with +thirty-two hands, whom desertion had reduced to twenty, but these were +too many for the cramped and putrid nook in which they slept, ate, and +smoked, and alternately desponded or were jovial, as sickness and +discomfort, or a Saturday night's bottle and hopes of better luck, got +the upper hand. Want of room, however, was one of the least grievances +of which the Julia's crew complained. It was a mere trifle, not worth +the naming. They could have submitted to close stowage had the dunnage +been decent. But instead of swinging in cosy hammocks, they slept in +_bunks_ or wretched pigeon-holes, on fragments of sails, unclean rags, +blanket-shreds, and the like. Such unenviable accommodations ought +hardly to have been disputed with their luckless possessors, who +nevertheless were not allowed to occupy in peace their broken-down bunks +and scanty bedding. Two races of creatures, time out of mind the curse +of old ships in warm latitudes, infested the Julia's forecastle, +resisting all efforts to dislodge or exterminate them, sometimes even +getting the upper hand, dispossessing the tortured mariners, and driving +them on deck in terror and despair. The sick only, hapless martyrs +unable to leave their cribs, lay passive, if not resigned, and were +trampled under foot by their ferocious and unfragrant foes. These were +rats and cockroaches. Typee--we use the name he bore during his Julian +tribulations--records a singular phenomenon in the nocturnal habits of +the last-named vermin. "Every night they had a jubilee. The first +symptom was an unusual clustering and humming amongst the swarms lining +the beams overhead, and the inside of the sleeping-places. This was +succeeded by a prodigious coming and going on the part of those living +out of sight. Presently they all came forth; the larger sort racing over +the chests and planks; winged monsters darting to and fro in the air; +and the small fry buzzing in heaps almost in a state of fusion. On the +first alarm, all who were able darted on deck; while some of the sick, +who were too feeble, lay perfectly quiet, the distracted vermin running +over them at pleasure. The performance lasted some ten minutes." Persons +there are, weak enough to view with loathing and aversion certain sable +insects that stray at night in kitchen or in pantry, and barbarous +enough to circumvent and destroy the odoriferous coleopteræ by artful +devices of glass traps and scarlet wafers. Such persons will probably +form their ideas of Typee's cockroaches from their own domestic +opportunities of observation. That were unjust to the crew of the Julia, +and would give no adequate idea of their sufferings. As a purring tabby +to a roaring jaguar, so is a British black-beetle to a cock-roach of the +Southern Seas. We back our assertion by a quotation from our lamented +friend Captain Cringle, who in his especially graphic and attractive +style thus hits off the peculiarities of this graceful insect. "When +full grown," saith Thomas, "it is a large dingy brown-coloured beetle, +about two inches long, with six legs, and two feelers as long as its +body. It has a strong anti-hysterical flavour, something between rotten +cheese and asafoetida, and seldom stirs abroad when the sun is up, but +lies concealed in the most obscure and obscene crevices it can creep +into; so that, when it is seen, its wings and body are thickly covered +with dust and dirt of various shades, which any culprit who chances to +fall asleep with his mouth open, is sure to reap the benefit of, as it +has a great propensity to walk into it, partly for the sake of the +crumbs adhering to the masticators, and also, apparently, with a +scientific desire to inspect, by accurate admeasurement with the +aforesaid antennæ, the state and condition of the whole potato-trap." A +description worthy of Buffon. Such were the delicate monsters, the +savoury sexipedes, with whom Typee and his comrades had to wage +incessant war. They were worse even than the rats, which were certainly +bad enough. "Tame as Trenck's mouse, they stood in their holes, peering +at you like old grandfathers in a doorway;" watching for their prey, and +disputing with the sailors the weevil-biscuit, rancid pork, and +horse-beef, composing the Julia's stores; or smothering themselves, the +luscious vermin, in molasses, which thereby acquired a rich wood-cock +flavour, whose cause became manifest when the treacle-jar ran low, +greatly to the disgust and consternation of the biped consumers. There +were no delicate feeders on board, but this saccharine essence of rat +was too much even for the unscrupulous stomachs of South-Sea whalers. A +queer set they were on board that Sydney barque. Paper Jack, the +captain, was a feeble Cockney, of meek spirit and puny frame, who glided +about the vessel in a nankeen jacket and canvass pumps, a laughing-stock +to his crew. The real command devolved upon the chief mate, John +Jermin--a good sailor and brave fellow, but violent, and given to drink. +The junior mate had deserted; of the four harpooners only one was left, +a fierce barbarian of a New Zealander--an excellent mariner, whose stock +of English was limited to nautical phrases and a frightful power of +oath, but who, in spite of his cannibal origin, ranked as a sort of +officer, in virtue of his harpoon, and took command of the ship when +mate and captain were absent. What a capital story, by the bye, Typee +tells us of one of this Bembo's whaling exploits! New Zealanders are +brave and bloodthirsty, and excellent harpooners, and they act up to the +South-Seaman's war-cry, "A dead whale or a stove boat!" There is a world +of wild romance and thrilling adventure in the occasional glimpses of +the whale fishery afforded us in Omoo; a strange picturesqueness and +piratical mystery about the lawless class of seamen engaged in it. Such +a portrait gallery as Typee makes out of the Julia's crew, beginning +with Chips and Bungs, the carpenter and cooper, the "Cods," or leaders +of the forecastle, and descending until he arrives at poor Rope Yarn, or +Ropey, as he was called, a stunted journeyman baker from Holborn, the +most helpless and forlorn of all land-lubbers, the butt and drudge of +the ship's company! A Dane, a Portuguese, a Finlander, a savage +from Hivarhoo, sundry English, Irish, and Americans, a daring +Yankee _beach-comber_, called Salem, and Sydney Ben, a runaway +ticket-of-leave-man, made up a crew much too weak to do any good in the +whaling way. But the best fellow on board, and by far the most +remarkable, was a disciple of Esculapius, known as Doctor Long-Ghost. +Jermin is a good portrait; so is Captain Guy; but Long-Ghost is a jewel +of a boy, a complete original, hit off with uncommon felicity. Nothing +is told us of his early life. Typee takes him up on board the Julia, +shakes hands with him in the last page of the book, and informs us that +he has never since seen or heard of him. So we become acquainted with +but a small section of the doctor's life; his subsequent adventures are +unknown, and, save a chance hint or two, his previous career is a +mystery, unfathomable as the Tahitian coast, where, within a biscuit's +toss of the coral shore, soundings there are none. Now and then he would +obscurely refer to days more palmy and prosperous than those spent on +board the Julia. But however great the contrast between his former +fortunes and his then lowly position, he exhibited much calm philosophy +and cheerful resignation. He was even merry and facetious, a practical +wag of the very first order, and as such a great favourite with the +whole ship's company, the captain excepted. He had arrived at Sydney in +an emigrant ship, had expended his resources, and entered as doctor on +board the Julia. All British whalers are bound to carry a medico, who is +treated as a gentleman, so long as he behaves as such, and has nothing +to do but to drug the men and play drafts with the captain. At first +Long-Ghost and Captain Guy hit it off very well; until, in an unlucky +hour, a dispute about politics destroyed their harmonious association. +The captain got a thrashing; the mutinous doctor was put in confinement +and on bread and water, ran away from the ship, was pursued, captured, +and again imprisoned. Released at last, he resigned his office, refused +to do duty, and went forward amongst the men. This was more magnanimous +than wise. Long-Ghost was a sort of medical Tom Coffin, a raw-boned +giant, upwards of two yards high, one of those men to whom the +between-decks of a small craft is a residence little less afflicting +than one of Cardinal Balue's iron cages. And to one who "had certainly, +at some time or other, spent money, drunk Burgundy, and associated with +gentlemen," the Julia's forecastle must have contained a host of +disagreeables, irrespective of rats and cockroaches, of its low roof, +evil odours, damp timbers, and dungeon-like aspect. The captain's table, +if less luxurious than that of a royal yacht or New York liner, surely +offered something better than the biscuits, hard as gun-flints and +thoroughly honeycombed, and the shot-soup, "great round peas polishing +themselves like pebbles by rolling about in tepid water," on which the +restive man of medicine was fain to exercise his grinders during his +abode forward. As regarded society, he lost little by relinquishing that +of Guy the Cockney, since he obtained in exchange the intimacy of +Melville the Yankee, who, to judge from his book, must be exceeding good +company, and to whom he was a great resource. The doctor was a man of +learning and accomplishments, who had made the most of his time whilst +the sun shone on his side the hedge, and had rolled his ungainly carcass +over half the world. "He quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbes of +Malmsbury, besides repeating poetry by the canto, especially Hudibras. +In the easiest way imaginable, he could refer to an amour he had in +Palermo, his lion-hunting before breakfast among the Caffres, and the +quality of the coffee to be drunk in Muscat." Strangely must such +reminiscences have sounded in a whaler's forecastle, with Dunks the +Dane, Finland Van, and Wymontoo the Savage, for auditors. + +The Julia had hitherto had little luck in her cruise, and could scarcely +hope for better in the state in which Typee found her. Besides the +losses by desertion, her crew was weakened by disease. Several of the +men lay sick in their berths, wholly unfit for duty. The captain himself +was ill, and all would have derived benefit from a short sojourn in +port; but this could not be thought of. The discipline of the ship was +bad, and the sailors, desperate and unruly fellows, discontented, as +well they might be, with their wretched provisions and uncomfortable +state, were not to be trusted on or near shore. Three-fourths of them, +had they once set foot on dry land, would have absconded, taken refuge +in the woods or amongst the savages, and have submitted to any amount of +tattoo, paint, and nose-ringing, rather than return to the ship. +Already, at St Christina, one of the Marquesas, a large party had made +their escape in two of the four whale-boats, scuttling the third, and +cutting the tackles of the fourth nearly through, so that when Bembo +jumped in to clear it away, man and boat went souse into the water. By +the assistance of a French corvette, and by bribing the king of the +country with a musket and ammunition, the fugitives were captured. But +it was more than probable that they and others would renew the attempt +should opportunity offer; so there was no alternative but to keep the +sea, and hope for better days and for the convalescence of the invalids. +Two of these died. Neither Bible nor Prayer-book were on board the +godless craft, and like dogs, without form of Christian burial, the dead +were launched into the deep. The situation of the survivors inspired +with considerable uneasiness the few amongst them capable of reflection. +The captain was ignorant of navigation; it was the mate who, from the +commencement of the voyage, had kept the ship's reckoning, and kept it +all to himself. He had only to get washed overboard in a gale, or to +walk over in a drunken fit, to leave his shipmates in a fix of the most +unpleasant description, ignorant of latitude, longitude, and of +everything else necessary to be known to guide the vessel on her course. +And as to the sperm whales, which Jermin had promised them in such +abundance that they would only have to strike and take, not a single fin +showed itself. At last the captain was reported dying, and the mate took +counsel with Long-Ghost, Typee, and others of the crew. He would gladly +have continued the cruise, but his wish was overruled, and the whaler's +stern was turned towards the Society Islands. + +The first glimpse of the peaks of Tahiti was hailed with transport by +the Julia's weary mariners. They had got a notion that if the captain +left the ship, their articles were no longer binding, and they should be +free to follow his example. And, at any rate, the sickness on board and +the shaky condition of the barque, guaranteed them, as they thought, +long and blissful leisure amongst the waving palm-groves and soft-eyed +Neuhas of Polynesia. Their arrival in sight of Papeetee, the Tahitian +capital, was welcomed by the boom of cannon. The frigate Reine Blanche, +at whose fore flew the flag of Admiral Du Petit Thouars, thus celebrated +the compulsory treaty, concluded that morning, by which the island was +ceded to the French. + +Captain Guy and his baggage were now set on shore, and it was soon +apparent to his men that whilst he nursed himself in the pure climate +and pleasant shades of Tahiti, they were to put to sea under the mate's +orders, and after a certain time to touch again at the island, and take +off their commander. The vessel was not even allowed to go into port, +although needing repairs, and in fact unseaworthy; and as to healing the +sick, selfish Paper Jack thought only of solacing his own infirmities. +The fury of the ill-fed, reckless, discontented crew, on discovering the +project of their superiors, passed all bounds. Chips and Bungs +volunteered to head a mutiny, and a round-robin was drawn up and signed. +But when Wilson, an old acquaintance of Guy's, and acting consul in the +absence of missionary Pritchard, came on board, the gallant cooper, who +derived much of his courage from the grog-kid, was cowed and craven. The +grievances brought forward, amongst others that of the _salt-horse_, (a +horse's hoof with the shoe on, so swore the cook, had been found in the +pickle,) were treated as trifles and pooh-poohed by the functionary, "a +minute gentleman with a viciously pugged nose, and a decidedly thin pair +of legs." But if Bungs allowed himself to be brow-beaten, so did not his +comrades. Yankee Salem flourished a bowie-knife, and such alarming +demonstrations were made, that the _counsellor_, as the sailors +persisted in calling the consul, thought it wise to beat a retreat. +Jermin now tried his hand, holding out brilliant prospects of a rich +cargo of sperm oil, and a pocket-full of dollars for every man on his +return to Sydney. The mutineers were proof alike against menace and +blandishment, and, at the secret instigation of Long Ghost and Typee, +resolutely refused to do duty. The consul, who had promised to return, +did not show; and at last the mate, having now but a few invalids and +landsmen to work the ship and keep her off shore, was compelled to enter +the harbour. The Julia came to an anchor within cable's length of the +French frigate, on board which consul Wilson repaired to obtain +assistance. The Reine Blanche was to sail in a few days for Valparaiso, +and the mutineers expected to go with her and be delivered up to a +British man-of-war. Undismayed by this prospect, they continued stanch +in their contumacy, and presently an armed cutter, "painted a 'pirate +black,' its crew a dark, grim-looking set, and the officers uncommonly +fierce-looking little Frenchmen," conveyed them on board the frigate, +where they were duly handcuffed, and secured by the ankle to a great +iron bar bolted down to the berth-deck. + +Touching the proceedings on board the French man-of-war, its imperfect +discipline, and the strange, un-nautical way of carrying on the duty, +Typee is jocular and satirical. American though he be--and, but for +occasional slight yankeeisms in his style, we might have doubted even +that fact--he has evidently much more sympathy with his cousin John Bull +than with his country's old allies, the French, whom he freely admits to +be a clever and gallant nation, whilst he broadly hints that their +valour is not likely to be displayed to advantage on the water. He finds +too much of the military style about their marine institutions. Sailors +should be fighting men, but not soldiers or musket-carriers, as they all +are in turn in the French navy. He laughs at or objects to every thing; +the mustaches of the officers, the system of punishment, the sour wine +that replaces rum and water, the soup instead of junk, the pitiful +little rolls baked on board, and distributed in lieu of hard biscuit. +And whilst praising the build of their ships--the only thing about them +he does praise--he ejaculates a hope, which sounds like a doubt, that +they will not some day fall into the hands of the people across the +Channel. "In case of war," he says, "what a fluttering of French ensigns +there would be! for the Frenchman makes but an indifferent seaman, and +though for the most part he fights well enough, somehow or other, he +seldom fights well enough to beat:"--at sea, be it understood. We are +rather at a loss to comprehend the familiarity shown by Typee with the +internal arrangements and architecture of the Reine Blanche. His time on +board was passed in fetters; at nightfall on the fifth day he left the +ship. How, we are curious to know, did he become acquainted with the +minute details of "the crack craft in the French navy," with the +disposition of her guns and decks, the complicated machinery by which +certain exceedingly simple things were done, and even with the rich +hangings, mirrors, and mahogany of the commodore's cabin? Surely the +ragged and disreputable mutineer of the Julia, whose foot had scarcely +touched the gangway, when he was hurried into confinement below, could +have had scanty opportunity for such observations: unless, indeed, +Herman Melville, or Typee, or the Rover, or by whatever other _alias_ he +be known, instead of creeping in at the hawse-holes, was welcomed on the +quarter-deck and admitted to the gun-room, or to the commodore's cabin, +an honoured guest in broad-cloth, not a despised merchant seaman in +canvass frock and hat of tarpaulin. We shall not dwell on these small +inconsistencies and oversights in an amusing book. We prefer +accompanying the Julia's crew to Tahiti, where they were put on shore +contrary to their expectations, and not altogether to their +satisfaction, since they had anticipated a rapid run to Valparaiso, the +fag-end of a cruise in an English man-of-war, and a speedy discharge at +Portsmouth. Paper Jack and Consul Wilson had other designs, and still +hoped to reclaim them to their duty on board the crazy Julia. On their +stubborn refusal, they were given in charge to a fat, good-humoured, old +Tahitian, called Captain Bob, who, at the head of an escort of natives, +conveyed them up the country to a sort of shed, known as the Calabooza +Beretanee or English jail, used as a prison for refractory sailors. This +commences Typee's shore-going adventures, not less pleasant and original +than his sea-faring ones; although it is with some regret that we lose +sight of the vermin-haunted barque, on whose board such strange and +exciting scenes occurred. + +Throughout the book, however, fun and incident abound, and we are +consoled for our separation from poor little Jule, by the curious +insight we obtain into the manners, morals, and condition of the gentle +savages, on whom an attempted civilisation has brought far more curses +than blessings. + + "How pleasant were the songs of Toobonai," + +how gladsome and grateful the rustle of leaves and tinkle of rills, and +silver-toned voices of Tahitian maidens, to the rough seamen who had so +long been "cabined, cribbed, confined," in the Julia's filthy +forecastle! Not that they were allowed free range of the Eden of the +South Seas. On board the Reine Blanche their ankles had been manacled to +an iron bar; in the Calabooza, (from the Spanish _calabozo_, a dungeon,) +they were placed in rude wooden stocks twenty feet long, constructed for +the particular benefit of refractory mariners. There they lay, merry men +all of a row, fed upon _taro_ (Indian turnip) and bread-fruit, and +covered up at night with one huge counterpane of brown _tappa_, the +native cloth. It was owing to no friendly indulgence on the part of Guy +and the consul, that their diet was so agreeable and salutary. Every +morning Ropey came grinning into the prison, with a bucket full of the +old worm-eaten biscuit from the Julia. It was a huge treat to the +unfortunate Cockney, thus to be instrumental in the annoyance of his +former persecutors; and lucky for him that their limbo'd legs prevented +their rewarding his visible exultation otherwise than by a shower of +maledictions. They swore to starve rather than consume the maggoty +provender. Luckily the natives had it in very different estimation. They +did not mind maggots, and held British biscuit to be a piquant and +delicious delicacy. So in exchange for their allotted ration, the +mutineers obtained a small quantity of vegetable food, and an unlimited +supply of oranges, thanks to which refreshing regimen the sick were +speedily restored to health. And after a few days of stocks and +submission, jolly old Captain Bob, who spoke sailor's English, and +obstinately claimed intimacy with Captain Cook,--whose visit to the +island had occurred some years before his birth--relaxed his severity, +and allowed the captives their freedom during the day. They profited of +this permission to forage a little, in a quiet way; assisting at +pig-killings, and dropping in at dinner-time upon the wealthier of their +neighbours. Tahitian hospitality is boundless, and the more praiseworthy +that the island, although so fertile, produces but a scanty amount of +edibles. Bread-fruit is the chief resource; fish, a very important one, +the chief dependence of many of the poorer natives. There is little +industry amongst them, and on the spontaneous produce of the soil the +shipping make heavy demands. Polynesian indolence is proverbial. Very +light labour would enable the Tahitians to roll in riches, at least +according to their own estimate of the value of money and of the +luxuries it procures. The sugar-cane is indigenous to the island, and of +remarkably fine quality; cotton is of ready growth; but the fine +existing plantations "are owned and worked by whites, who would rather +pay a drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars a month, than +hire a sober native for his fish and _taro_." Wholly without energy, the +Tahitians saunter away their lives in a state of drowsy indolence, +aiming only at the avoidance of trouble, and the sensual enjoyment of +the moment. The race rapidly diminishes. "In 1777, Captain Cook +estimated the population of Tahiti at about two hundred thousand. By a +regular census taken some four or five years ago, it was found to be +only nine thousand!" Diseases of various kinds, entirely of European +introduction, and chiefly the result of drunkenness and debauchery, +account for this frightful decrease, which must result in the extinction +of the aborigines. + + "The palm-tree shall grow, + The coral shall spread, + But man shall cease." + +So runs an old Tahitian prophecy, soon to be realised. And if Pomaree, +who is under forty years of age, proves a long-lived sovereign, she may +chance to find herself a queen without subjects. Concerning her majesty +and her court, Typee is diffuse and diverting. This is an age of queens, +and although her dominions be of the smallest, her people few and +feeble, and her prerogative wofully clipped, she of Tahiti has made some +noise in the world, and attracted a fair share of public attention. At +one time, indeed, she was almost as much thought of and talked about as +her more civilised and puissant European sisters. In France, _La Reine +Pomarée_ was looked upon as a far more interesting personage than +Spanish Isabel or Portuguese Maria; and extraordinary notions were +formed as to the appearance, habits, and attributes of her dusky +majesty. Distance favoured delusion, and French imagination ran riot in +conjecture, until the reports of the valiant Thonars, and his squadron +of protection, dissipated the enchantment, and reduced Pomaree to her +true character, that of a lazy, dirty, licentious, Polynesian savage, +who walks about barefoot, drinks spirits, and hen-pecks her husband. Her +real name is Aimata, but she assumed, on ascending the throne, the royal +patronymic by which she is best known. There were Cæsars in Rome, there +are Pomarees in Tahiti. The name was originally assumed by the great +Otoo, (to be read of in Captain Cook,) who united the whole island under +one crown. It descended to his son, and then to his grandson, who came +to the throne an infant, and, dying young, was succeeded by her present +majesty, Pomaree Vahinee I., the first female Pomaree. This lady has +been twice married. Her first husband was a king's son, but the union +was ill assorted, a divorce obtained, and she took up with one Tanee, a +chief from the neighbouring island of Imeco. She leads him a dog's life, +and he consoles himself by getting drunk. In that state, he now and then +violently breaks out, contemns the royal authority, thrashes his wife, +and smashes the crockery. Captain Bob gave Typee an account of a burst +of this sort, which occurred about seven years ago. Stimulated by the +seditious advice of his boon companions, and under the influence of an +unusually large dose of strong waters, the turbulent king-consort forgot +the respect due to his wife and sovereign, mounted his horse, and ran +full tilt at the royal cavalcade, out for their afternoon ride in the +park. One maid of honour was floored, the rest fled in terror, save and +except Pomaree, who stood her ground like a man, and apostrophised her +insubordinate spouse in the choicest Tahitian Billingsgate. For once her +eloquence failed of effect. Dragged from her horse, her personal charms +were deteriorated by a severe thumping on the face. This done, +Othello-Tanee attempted to strangle her, and was in a fair way to +succeed, when her loving subjects came to her rescue. So heinous a crime +could not be overlooked, and Tanee, was banished to his native island; +but after a short time he declared his penitence, made _amende +honorable_, and was restored to favour. He does not very often venture +to thwart the will of his royal wife, much less to raise his hand +against her sacred person, but submits with exemplary patience to her +caprices and abuse, and even to the manual admonitions she not +unfrequently bestows upon him. + +Upon the whole, life, at the Calabooza was not very disagreeable. The +prisoners, now only nominally so, had little to complain of, except +occasional short commons, arising not from unwillingness, but from +disability, on the part of the kind-hearted natives, to satisfy the +cravings of the hungry whalers, whose appetites were remarkable, +especially that of lanky Doctor Long Ghost. The doctor was a stickler +for quality as well as quantity; the memory of his claret and beccafico +days still clung to him, like the scent of the roses to Tom Moore's +broken gallipot: he was curious in condiments, and whilst devouring, +grumbled at the unseasoned viands of Tahiti. Cayenne and Harvey abounded +not in those latitudes, but pepper and salt were on board the Julia, and +the doctor prevailed on Rope Yarn to bring him a supply. "This he placed +in a small leather wallet, a monkey bag (so called by sailors) usually +worn as a purse about the neck. 'In my poor opinion,' said Long Ghost, +as he tucked the wallet out of sight, 'it behoves a stranger in Tahiti +to have his knife in readiness, and his castor slung.'" And thus +equipped, the doctor and his brethren in captivity rambled over the +verdant slopes and through the cool groves of Tahiti, bathed in the +mountain streams, and luxuriated in orange orchards, where "the trees +formed a dense shade, spreading overhead a dark, rustling vault, groined +with boughs, and studded here and there with the ripened spheres, like +gilded balls." Then they had plenty of society; native visitors flocked +to see them, and Doctor Johnson, a resident English physician, was +constant in his attendance, knowing that the Consul must pay his bill. +Three French priests also called upon them, one of whom proved to be no +Frenchman, but a portly, handsome, good-humoured Irishman, well known +and much disliked by the Polynesian protestant missionaries. A strong +attempt was made by Guy and Wilson to get the men to do duty. A schooner +was about to sail for Sydney, and they were threatened to be sent +thither for trial. They still refused to hand rope or break biscuit on +board the Julia. Long Ghost made some cutting remarks on the captain; +and the sailors, who had been taken down to the Consul's office for +examination, began to bully, and talked of carrying off Consul and +Captain to bear them company in the Calabooza. The same ill success +attended subsequent attempts, until Captain Guy was compelled to look +out for another crew, which he obtained with difficulty, and by a +considerable advance of hard dollars. And at last, "It was Sunday in +Tahiti, and a glorious morning, when Captain Bob, waddling into the +Calabooza, startled us by announcing, 'Ah, my boy--shippee you, +harree--maky sail!' in other words, the Julia was off," and had taken +her stores of old biscuit with her: so the next morning the inmates of +the Calabooza were without rations. The Consul would supply none, and it +was pretty evident that he rather desired the departure of the obstinate +seamen from that part of the island. The whole of his proceedings with +regard to them had served but to render him ridiculous, and he wished +them out of his neighbourhood; but the ex-prisoners found themselves +pretty comfortable, and preferred remaining. They were better off than +they had for some time been, for Jermin--not such a bad fellow, after +all--had sent them their chests ashore; and these, besides supplying +them with sundry necessaries, gave them immense importance in Tahitian +eyes. They had been kindly treated before, but now they were courted and +flattered, like younger sons in marching regiments, who suddenly step +into the family acres. The natives crowded round them, eager to swear +eternal friendship, according to an old Polynesian custom, once +universal in the islands, but that has fallen into considerable disuse, +except when something is to be gained by its observance. A gentleman of +the name of Kooloo fixed his affections upon Typee--or rather upon his +goods and chattels; for when he had wheedled him out of a regatta shirt, +and other small pieces of finery, he transferred his affections to a +newly-arrived sailor, whose chest was better lined, and who bestowed on +him a love-token, in the shape of a heavy pea-jacket. In this garment, +closely buttoned up, Kooloo took morning promenades, with the tropical +sun glaring down upon him. He frequently met his former friend, but +passed him with a careless "How d'ye do?" which presently dwindled into +a nod. "In one week's time," says poor Typee, "he gave me the cut +direct, and lounged by without even nodding. He must have taken me for +part of the landscape." + +After a while the contents of the chests, and even the chests +themselves--esteemed by the Tahitians most valuable pieces of +furniture--were given or bartered away, and, as the Consul still refused +them rations, the sailors knew not how to live. The natives helped them +as much as they could, but their larders were scantily furnished, and +they grew tired of feeding fifteen hungry idlers. So at last the latter +made a morning call upon the Consul, who, being unwilling to withdraw, +and equally so to press, charges which he knew would not be sustained, +refused to have any thing to say to them. Thereupon some of the party, +strong in principle and resolution, and seeing how grievous an annoyance +their presence was to their enemy, Wilson, swore to abide near him and +never to leave him. Others, less obstinate or more impatient of a +change, resolved to decamp from the Calabooza. The first to depart were +Typee and Long Ghost. They had received intelligence of a new plantation +in Imeco, recently formed by foreigners, who wanted white labourers, and +were expected at Papeetee to seek them. With these men they took service +under the names of Peter and Paul, at wages of fifteen silver dollars a +month; and, after an affecting separation from their shipmates--whose +respectable character may be judged of by the fact, that one of them +picked Long Ghost's pocket in the very act of embracing him,--they +sailed away for Imeco, and arrived without accident in the valley of +Martair, where the plantation was situate. The chapters recording their +stay here are amongst the very best in the book, full of rich, quiet +fun. Typee gives a capital description of his employers. They were two +in number, both "whole-souled fellows; one was a tall robust Yankee, +born in the backwoods of Maine, sallow, and with a long face; the other, +a short little Cockney who had first clapped his eyes on the Monument." +Zeke the Yankee, had christened his comrade "Shorty;" and Shorty looked +up to him with respect, and yielded to him in most things. Both showed +themselves well disposed towards their new labourers, whom they at once +discovered to be superior to their station. And they soon found their +society so agreeable, that they were willing to keep them to do little +more than nominal work. As to making them efficient farm servants, they +quickly gave up that idea. As a sailor, Typee had little fancy for +husbandry; and the doctor found his long back terribly in his way when +requested to dig potatoes and root up stumps, under a sun which, as +Shorty said, "was hot enough to melt the nose hoff a brass monkey." Long +Ghost very soon gave in; the extraction of a single tree-root settled +him; he pleaded illness, and retired to his hammock, but was +considerably vexed when he heard the Yankee propose a bullock hunting +expedition, in which, as a sick man, he could not decently take part. +This was only the prologue to his annoyances. Musquitoes, unknown in +Tahiti, abound in Imeeo. They were brought there, according to a native +tradition, by one Nathan Coleman, of Nantucket, who, in revenge for some +fancied grievance, towed a rotten water-cask ashore, and left it in a +neglected _taro_ patch, where the ground was moist and warm. Musquitoes +were the result. "When tormented by them, I found much relief in +coupling the word Coleman with another of one syllable, and pronouncing +them together energetically." The musquito chapter is very amusing, +showing the various comical and ingenious manoeuvres of the friends to +avoid their tormentors, and obtain a night's sleep. At last they entered +a fishing canoe, paddled some distance from shore, and dropped the +native anchor, a stone secured to a rope. They were awakened in the +morning by the motion of their boat. Zeke was wading in the shallow +water, and towing them from a reef towards which they had drifted. "The +water-sprites had rolled our stone out of its noose, and we had floated +away." This was a narrow escape, but nevertheless they stuck to their +floating bedstead as the only possible sleeping place. A day's +successful hunting, followed by a famous supper and jollification under +a banian-tree, put the doctor in good humour, and he made himself vastly +agreeable. The natives beheld his waggish pranks with infinite +admiration, and Zeke looked upon him with particular favour; so much so, +that when upon the following morning an order came from a ship at +Papeetee, for a supply of potatoes, he almost hesitated to tell funny +Peter to assist in digging them up. But the emergency pressed, and the +work must be done. So Peter and Paul were set to unearth the vegetables. +This was no very cruel task, for "the rich tawny soil seemed specially +adapted to the crop; the great yellow murphies rolling out of the hills +like eggs from a nest." But when they were dug up, they had to be +carried to the beach; and to this part of the business the lazy +adventurers had a special dislike, although Zeke kindly provided them, +to lighten their toil, with what he called the barrel machine--a sort of +rural sedan, in which the servants carried their loads with comparative +ease, whilst their employers sweated under shouldered hampers. But no +alleviation could reconcile the sailor and the physician to this novel +and unpleasant labour, and the potato-digging was the last piece of +work, deserving the name, that either of them did. A few days afterwards +they gave their masters warning, greatly to the vexation of Zeke, +although he received the notice--with true Yankee imperturbability. He +proposed that Long Ghost, who, after the hunt, had shown, considerable +culinary skill, should assume the office of cook, and that Paul-Typee +should only work when it suited him, which would not have been very +often. The offer was friendly and favourable, but it was refused. A +hospitable invitation to remain as guests as long as was convenient to +them, was likewise rejected, and, bent upon a ramble, the restless +adventurers left the vale of Martair. Even greater inducements would +probably have been insufficient to keep them there. They had been so +long on the rove, that change of scene had become essential to their +happiness. The doctor, especially, was anxious to be off to Tamai, an +inland village on the borders of a lake, where the fruits were the +finest, and the women the most beautiful and unsophisticated in all the +Society Islands. Epicurean Long Ghost had set his mind upon visiting +this terrestrial paradise, and thither his steady chum willingly +accompanied him. It was a day's journey on foot, allowing time for +dinner and siesta; and the path lay through wood and ravine, unpeopled +save by wild cattle. About noon they reached the heart of the island, +thus pleasantly described. "It was a green, cool hollow among the +mountains, into which we at last descended with a bound. The place was +gushing with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn trees, +on whose mossy boles the moisture stood in beads." There is something +delightfully hydropathic in these lines; they cool one like a +shower-bath. He is a prime fellow, this common sailor Melville, at such +scraps of description, terse and true, placing the scene before us in +ten words. In long yarns he indulges not, but of such happy touches as +the above, we could quote a score. We have not room, either for them, +or for an account of the valley of Tamai, its hospitable inhabitants, +and its heathenish dances, performed in secret, and in dread of the +missionaries, by whom such saturnalia are forbidden. The place was +altogether so pleasant, that the doctor and his friend entertained +serious thoughts of settling there, or at least of making a long stay, +when one morning they were put to flight by the arrival of strangers, +said to be missionaries, with whom, vagrants as they were, they had no +wish to fall in. So they returned to their friend Zeke, nursing new and +ambitious projects. They had no intention of remaining with the +good-hearted Yankee, but merely paid him a flying visit, and that with +an interested motive. What they wanted of him was this. Although feeling +themselves gentlemen every inch, they were not always able to convince +the world of their respectability. So they resolved to have a passport, +and pitched upon Zeke to manufacture it, he being well known and much +respected in Imeeo. Zeke was gratified by the compliment, and set to +work with a rooster's quill, and a piece of dirty paper. "Evidently he +was not accustomed to composition; for his literary throes were so +violent, that the doctor suggested that some sort of a Cæsarian +operation might be necessary. The precious paper was at last finished; +and a great curiosity it was. We were much diverted with his reasons for +not dating it. 'In this here damned climate,' he observed, 'a feller +can't keep the run of the months, no how; 'cause there's no seasons, no +summer and winter to go by. One's etarnally thinking it's always July, +it's so pesky hot.' A passport provided, we cast about for some means of +getting to Taloo." + +The decline of the Tahitian monarchy--the degradation of the regal house +of Pomaree, is painful to contemplate. The queen still wears a crown--a +tinsel one, received as a present from her sister-sovereign of +England,--she has also a court and a palace, such as they are; but her +power is little more than nominal, her exchequer seldom otherwise than +empty. Typee draws a touching contrast between times past and present. +"'I'm a greater man than King George,' said the incorrigible young Otoo, +to the first missionaries; 'he rides on a horse and I on a man.' Such +was the case. He travelled post through his dominions on the shoulders +of his subjects, and relays of immortal beings were provided in all the +valleys. But, alas! how times have changed! how transient human +greatness! Some years since, Pomaree Vahinee I., granddaughter of the +proud Otoo, went into the laundry business, publicly soliciting, by her +agents, the washing of the linen belonging to officers of ships touching +in her harbours." Into the court of this washerwoman-queen, Typee and +Long Ghost were exceedingly anxious to penetrate. Vague ideas of favour +and preferment haunted their brains. During their Polynesian cruise, +they had seen many instances of rapid advancement; vagabond foreigners, +of all nations, domesticated in the families of chiefs and kings, and +sometimes married to their daughters and sharing their power. At one of +the Tonga islands, a scamp of a Welshman officiated as cupbearer to the +king of the cannibals. The monarch of the Sandwich islands has three +foreigners about his court--a Negro to beat the drum, a wooden-legged +Portuguese to play the fiddle, and Mordecai, a juggler, to amuse his +majesty with cups and balls and sleight of hand. On the Marquesan island +of Hivarhoo, they had found an English sailor who had attained to the +highest dignity in the country. He had deserted from a merchant ship, +and at once set up, on his own hook, as an independent sovereign, +without dominions, but by disposition most belligerent. A musket and a +store of cartridges were his whole possessions; but in a land where war +was rife, carried on with the primitive weapons of spear and javelin, +they were sufficiently important to make a native prince covet his +alliance. His first battle was a decisive victory, a perfect Waterloo, +and he became the Wellington of Hivarhoo, receiving, as reward for his +distinguished services, the hand of a princess, and a splendid dowry of +hogs, mats, and other produce. To conform to the prejudices of his new +family, he allowed himself to be tattooed, tabooed, and otherwise +paganized, becoming as big a savage as any in the island. A blue shark +adorned his forehead; a broad bar, of the same colour, traversed his +face. The tabooing was a less ornamental but more decidedly useful +formality, for by it his person was declared sacred and inviolable. +Typee and his medical friend had a strong prejudice against cerulean +sharks and the like embellishments; but if these could be dispensed +with, they felt no disinclination to form part of Pomaree's household. +They had not quite made up their minds what office would best suit them, +but their circumstances were unprosperous, and they resolved not to be +particular. They understood that the queen was mustering around her all +the foreigners she could recruit, to make head against the French. She +was then at Taloo, a village on the coast of Imeeo, and thither the two +adventurers betook themselves, hoping to be at once elevated to +important posts at court; but quite resigned, in case of disappointment, +to work as day-labourers in a sugar-plantation, or go to sea in a +whaler, then in the harbour for wood and water. Disgusted with their +desultory, hand-to-mouth existence, they yearned after respectability +and a prime-ministership. To their sanguine anticipations, both of these +seemed easy of attainment. Long Ghost, indeed, who, amongst his various +accomplishments, was a very Orpheus upon the violin, insisted strongly +upon the probability of his becoming a Tahitian Rizzio. But a necessary +preliminary to the realisation of these day-dreams, was a presentation +at court, and that was difficult to obtain. Once before Queen Pomaree, +they doubted not but she, with Napoleonic sagacity, would discern their +merits, and forthwith make Typee her admiral, and Long Ghost +inspector-general of hospitals. But they lacked an introduction. The +proper course, according to the practice of travelling nobodies, +desirous of intruding their plebeianism into a foreign court, would have +been to apply to their ambassadors. Unfortunately Deputy-Consul Wilson, +the only person at hand of a diplomatic character, was by no means +disposed to act as master of the ceremonies to the insurgents of the +Julia. And their costume, it must be confessed, scarcely qualified them +to appear at levee or drawing-room. A short time previously, their +ragged and variegated garb had given them much the look of a brace of +Polynesian Robert Macaires. Typee had made himself a new frock out of +two old ones, a blue and a red, the irregular mingling of the colours +producing a pleasing parrot-like effect; a tattered shirt of printed +calico was twisted round his head, turban-fashion, the sleeves dangling +behind, and bullock's-hide sandals protected his feet. The doctor was +still more fantastical in his attire. He sported a _roora_, a garment +similar to the South American poncho, a sort of mantle or blanket, with +a hole in the centre, through which the head passes. This simple article +of apparel, which in the doctor's case was of coarse brown tappa, fell +in folds around his angular carcass, and in conjunction with a +broad-brimmed hat of Panama grass, gave him the aspect of a decayed +grandee. Thus clad, the two friends arrived in the neighbourhood of the +royal residence, and there were fortunate enough to fall in with Mrs +Po-Po, a benevolent Tahitian matron, who provided them with clean frocks +and trousers, such as sailors wear, and in all respects was as good as a +mother to them. Her husband, Jeremiah Po-Po, a man of substance and +consideration, made them welcome in his house, fed and fostered them, +without hope of fee or recompense. A little of this generous hospitality +was owing to the hypocrisy of that villain, Long Ghost, who, finding his +entertainers devoutly disposed, muttered a "Grace before Meat" over the +succulent little porkers, baked _à la façon de Barbarie_ in the ground, +upon which their kind-hearted Amphitrion regaled them. But neither clean +canvass, nor simulated piety, sufficed to draw upon the ambitious +schemers the favourable notice of Queen Pomaree. Accustomed to sailors, +she held them cheap. A uniform, though but the moth-eaten undress of a +militia ensign, would have been a powerful auxiliary to their projects +of aggrandisement. Like some others of her sex, Pomaree loves a +soldier's coat, and maintained in more prosperous days a formidable +regiment of body-guards, in pasteboard shakos, and without breeches. + +To go to court, however, Typee and his comrade were fully resolved; and +they were not very scrupulous as to the manner of their introduction. +They made up to a Marquesan gentleman of herculean proportions, whose +office it was to take the princes of the blood an airing in his arms. +Typee, who spoke his language, and had been at his native village, soon +ingratiated himself with Marbonna, who introduced them to one of the +queen's chamberlains. Bribery and corruption now came into play: a plug +of tobacco, proved an excellent passport to within the royal precincts, +but then Marbonna was suddenly called away, and the intruders found +themselves abandoned to their fate amongst the ladies of the court, +amiable and affable damsels, whom a little "soft sawder" induced to +conduct them into the queen's own drawing room. Here were collected +numerous costly articles of European manufacture, sent as presents to +Pomaree. Writing-desks, cut glass and beautiful china, valuable +engravings, and gilt candelabras, arms and instruments of all kinds, lay +scratched and broken, musty and rusting amongst greasy calabashes, old +matting, paddles, fish-spears, and rubbish of all kinds. It was +supper-time; and presently the queen came out of her private boudoir, +attired in a blue silk gown and rich shawls, but without shoes or +stockings. She lay down upon a mat, and fed herself with her fingers. +Presumptuous Long Ghost, unabashed before royalty, was for immediately +introducing himself and friend; but the attendants opposed this forward +proceeding, and, in doing so, made such a fuss that the queen looked up +from her calabash of fish, perceived the strangers, and ordered them +out. Such was the first and last interview between Typee the mariner and +Pomaree the queen. + +"Disappointed in going to court, we determined upon going to sea." The +Leviathan, an American whaler, lay in harbour, and Typee shipped on +board her. Long Ghost would have done the same, but the Yankee captain +disliked the cut of his jib, swore he was a "Sidney bird," and would +have nought to say to him. So Typee divided his advance of wages with +the medical spectre--drank with him a parting bottle of wine, +surreptitiously purchased from a pilfering member of Pomaree's +household--and sailed on a whaling cruise to the coast of Japan. We look +forward with confidence and interest to an account of what there befel +him. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[C] _Omoo; A Narrative of Adventures in the South Seas._ By HERMAN +MELVILLE. London: 1847. + + + + +ON THE NUTRITIVE QUALITIES OF THE BREAD NOW IN USE. + +BY PROFESSOR JOHNSTON. + + +A few plain words on this subject may not be unacceptable to the popular +reader at the present time. + +We are fond of what is agreeable to the eye as well as pleasant to the +taste, and therefore we love to have our bread made of the whitest and +finest of the wheat. Attaching superior excellence to what thus pleases +the eye, we call the good Scotch bannock an inferior food, and the +wholesome black bread of the north of Europe a disgusting article of +diet. When our experience and knowledge are local and confined, our +opinions necessarily partake of a similar character. + +In regard to the different qualities of wheaten flour, our judgments are +not so severe. All things which pertain to this aristocratic grain--this +staff of English life--like the liveries and horses of a great man--are +treated with a certain degree of respect. Still, they are only the +appendages of the noble seed, and the more thoroughly they are got rid +of, the better the kernel is supposed to become. + +In many of our old-fashioned families, indeed, the practice still +lingers of baking bread from the whole meal of wheat for common use in +the kitchen or hall, and for occasional consumption on the master's +table. An enthusiastic physician also now and then rouses himself, and +does battle with the national organs of taste on behalf of the darker +bread, and the browner flour--and dyspeptic old gentlemen or mammas who +have over-pampered their sickly darlings, listen to his fervid warnings, +and the star of the brown loaf is for a month or two in the ascendant. + +But gradually the warning sound is lost to the alarmed ear, and the +pulses of the commoved air waft it on to mingle with the thousand other +long-quenched voices which people the distant realms of space, and form +together that unutterable harmony which, by consent of the poets, is +named the music of the spheres. + +There are times, however, when good men, though aware of this passing +tendency of human efforts, and of the thankless impotency of a struggle +against the public voice--that _vox populi_ which wise men (so-called) +have pronounced to be also _vox Dei_--will nevertheless return to what +they believe to be a useful though unvalued labour. The present is one +in which any thing which can be said in favour of the less-valued parts +of our imperial grain, will be more readily listened to than at any +other period in the life-time of the existing generation; and being +listened to, may be productive of the greatest national good. + +I propose, therefore, to show, in an intelligible manner, that whole +meal flour is really more nourishing, as well as more wholesome, than +fine white flour as food for man. + +The solid parts of the human body consist, principally, of three several +portions: the fat, the muscle, and the bone. These three substances are +liable to constant waste in the living body, and therefore must be +constantly renewed from the food that we eat. The vegetable food we +consume contains these three substances almost ready formed. The plant +is the brick-maker. The animal voluntarily introduces these bricks into +its stomach, and then involuntarily--through the operation of the +mysterious machinery within--picks out these bricks, transports them to +the different parts of the body, and builds them into their appropriate +places. As the miller at his mill throws into the hopper the unground +grain, and forthwith, by the involuntary movements of the machinery, +receives in his several sacks the fine flour, the seconds, the +middlings, the pollard, and the bran; so in the human body, by a still +more refined separation, the fat is extracted and deposited here, the +muscular matter there, and the bony material in a third locality, where +it can not only be stored up, but where its presence is actually at the +moment necessary. + +Again, the fluid parts of the body contain the same substances in a +liquid form, on their way to or from the several parts of the body in +which they are required. They include also a portion of salt or saline +matter which is dissolved in them, as we dissolve common salt in our +soup, or Epsom salts in the pleasant draughts with which our doctors +delight to vex us. This saline matter is also obtained from the food. + +Now, it is self-evident, that that food must be the most nourishing +which supplies all these ingredients of the body most abundantly on the +whole, or in proportions most suited to the actual wants of the +individual animal to which it is given. + +How stands the question, then, in regard to this point between the brown +bread and the white--the fine flour, and the whole meal of wheat? + +The grain of wheat consists of two parts, with which the miller is +familiar--the inner grain and the skin that covers it. The inner grain +gives the pure wheat flour; the skin, when separated, forms the bran. +The miller cannot entirely peel off the skin from his grain, and thus +some of it is unavoidably ground up with his flour. By sifting, he +separates it more or less completely: his seconds, middlings, &c., owing +their colour to the proportion of brown bran that has passed through the +sieve along with the flour. The whole meal, as it is called, of which +the so-named brown _household bread_ is made, consists of the entire +grain ground up together--used as it comes from the mill-stones +unsifted, and therefore containing all the bran. + +The first white flour, therefore, may be said to contain no bran, while +the whole meal contains all that grew naturally upon the grain. + +What is the composition of these two portions of the seed? How much do +they respectively contain of the several constituents of the animal +body? How much of each is contained also in the whole grain? + +1. _The fat._ Of this ingredient a thousand pounds of the + + Whole grain contain 28 lbs. + Fine Flour, " 20 " + Bran, " 60 " + +So that the bran is much richer in fat than the interior part of the +grain, and the whole grain ground together (whole meal) richer than the +finer part of the flour in the proportion of nearly one half. + +2. _The muscular matter._ I have had no opportunity as yet of +ascertaining the relative proportions of this ingredient in the bran and +fine flour of the same sample of grain. Numerous experiments, however, +have been made in my laboratory, to determine these proportions in the +fine flour and whole seed of several varieties of grain. The general +result of these is, that the whole grain uniformly contains a larger +quantity, weight for weight, than the fine flour extracted from it does. +The particular results in the case of wheat and Indian corn were as +follows:--A thousand pounds of the whole grain and of the fine flour +contained of muscular matter respectively,-- + + _Whole grain._ _Fine Flour._ +Wheat, 156 lbs. 130 lbs. +Indian Corn, 140 110 + +Of the material out of which the animal muscle is to be formed, the +whole meal or grain of wheat contains one-fifth more than the finest +flour does. For maintaining muscular strength, therefore, it must be +more valuable in an equal proportion. + +3. _Bone material and Saline matter._--Of these mineral constituents, as +they may be called, of the animal body, a thousand pounds of bran, whole +meal and fine flour, contain respectively,-- + + Bran, 700 lbs. + Whole meal, 170 " + Fine flour, 60 " + +So that in regard to this important part of our food, necessary to all +living animals, but especially to the young who are growing, and to the +mother who is giving milk--the whole meal is three times more nourishing +than the fine flour. + +Our case is now made out. Weight for weight, the whole grain or meal is +more rich in all these three essential elements of a nutritive food, +than the fine flour of wheat. By those whose only desire is to sustain +their health and strength by the food they eat, ought not the whole meal +to be preferred? To children who are rapidly growing, the browner the +bread they eat, the more abundant the supply of the materials from which +their increasing bones and muscles are to be produced. To the +milk-giving mother, the same food, and for a similar reason, is the most +appropriate. + +A glance at their mutual relations in regard to the three substances, +presented in one view, will show this more clearly. A thousand pounds of +each contain of the three several ingredients the following proportions. + + Whole meal. Fine flour. +Muscular matter, 156 lbs. 130 lbs. +Bone material, 170 " 60 " +Fat, 28 " 20 " + +Total in each, 354 210 + +Taking the three ingredients, therefore, together, the whole meal is +one-half more valuable for fulfilling all the purposes of nutrition than +the fine flour--and especially it is so in regard to the feeding of the +young, the pregnant, and those who undergo much bodily fatigue. + +It will not be denied that it is for a wise purpose that the Deity has +so intimately associated, in the grain, the several substances which are +necessary for the complete nutrition of animal bodies. The above +considerations show how unwise we are in attempting to undo this natural +collocation of materials. To please the eye and the palate, we sift out +a less generally nutritive food,--and, to make up for what we have +removed, experience teaches us to have recourse to animal food of +various descriptions. + +It is interesting to remark, even in apparently trivial things, how all +nature is full of compensating processes. We give our servants household +bread, while we live on the finest of the wheat ourselves. The mistress +eats that which pleases the eye more, the maid what sustains and +nourishes the body better. + +But the whole meal is more wholesome, as well as more nutritive. It is +on account of its superior wholesomeness that those who are experienced +in medicine usually recommend it to our attention. Experience in the +laws of digestion brings us back to the simple admixture found in the +natural seed. It is not an accidental thing that the proportions in +which the ingredients of a truly sustaining food take their places in +the seeds on which we live, should be best fitted at once to promote the +health of the sedentary scholar, and to reinvigorate the strength of the +active man when exhausted by bodily labour. + +Some may say that the preceding observations are merely theoretical; and +may demand the support of actual trial, before they will concede that +the selection of the most nourishing and wholesome diet is hereafter to +be regulated by the results of chemical analysis. The demand is +reasonable in itself, and the so-called deductions of theory are +entitled only to the rank of probable conjectures, till they have been +tested by exact and repeated trials. + +But such in this case have been made; and our theoretical considerations +come in only to confirm the results of previous experiments--to explain +why these results should have been obtained, and to extend and enforce +the practical lessons which the results themselves appeared to +inculcate. + +Thus, from the experiments of Majendie and others, it was known that +animals which in a few weeks died if fed only upon fine flour, lived +long upon whole meal bread. The reason appears from our analytical +investigations. The whole meal contains in large quantity the three +forms of matter by which the several parts of the body are sustained, or +successively renewed. We may feed a man long upon bread and water only, +but unless we wish to kill him also, we must have the apparent cruelty +to restrict him to the coarser kinds of bread. The charity which should +supply him with fine white loaves instead, would in effect kill him by a +lingering starvation. + +Again, the pork-grower who buys bran from the miller, wonders at the +remarkable feeding and fattening effect which this apparently woody and +useless material has upon his animals. The surprise ceases, however, +and the practice is encouraged, and extended to other creatures, when +the researches of the laboratory explain to him what the food itself +contains, and what his growing animal requires. + +Economy as well as comfort follow from an exact acquaintance with the +wants of our bodies in their several conditions, and with the +composition of the various articles of diet which are at our command. In +the present condition of the country, this economy has become a vital +question. It is a kind of Christian duty in every one to practise it as +far as his means and his knowledge enable him. + +Perhaps the amount of the economy which would follow the use of whole +meal instead of fine flour, may not strike every one who reads the above +observations. The saving arises from two sources. + +First, The amount of husk, separated by the miller from the wheat which +he grinds, and which is not sold for human use, varies very much. I +think we do not over-estimate it, when we consider it as forming +one-eighth of the whole. On this supposition, eight pounds of wheat +yield seven of flour consumed by man, and one of pollard and bran which +are given to animals--chiefly to poultry and pigs. If the whole meal be +used, however, eight pounds of flour will be obtained, or eight people +will be fed by the same weight of grain which only fed seven before. + +Again, we have seen that the whole meal is more nutritious--so that this +coarser flour will go farther than an equal weight of the fine. The +numbers at which we arrived, from the results of analysis, show that, +taking all the three sustaining elements of the food into consideration, +the coarse is one-half more nutritive than the fine. Leaving a wide +margin for the influence of circumstances, let us suppose it only +one-eighth more nutritive, and we shall have now nine people nourished +equally by the same weight of grain, which, when eaten as fine flour, +would support only seven. _The wheat of the country_, in other words, +_would in this form go one-fourth farther than at present_. + +But some one may remark, if all this good is to come from the mere use +of the bran, why not recommend it to be withheld from the pigs, and +consume it by man in some way alone? This would involve no change in the +practice of our millers, and little in the habits and bread of the great +mass of the population. + +But such a course, if possible, would not bring us to the economical end +we wish to attain. Suppose it could be made palatable and eaten by man, +little comparative saving would be effected. + +First, because, when eaten alone, the fine flour will not go so far as +when mixed with a certain proportion of bran: that is to say,--a given +weight of fine flour will produce an increased nutritive effect when +mixed with the bran: greater than is due to the constituents of the bran +taken alone. The mixture of the two in reality increases the virtues of +both. Again, if eaten alone, bran would prove too difficult, and +therefore slow of digestion in most stomachs. Much would thus pass, +unexhausted of its nutritive matter, through the alimentary canal, as +whole oats often do through that of horses, and thus a considerable +waste would ensue. + +And further, supposing all to be dissolved in the stomach, there would +still, of necessity, be a waste of material, since the bran actually +contains a larger proportion of bone material and saline matter compared +with its other ingredients, than the body, in its natural healthy state, +can make use of. All this excess must, therefore, be rejected by the +body, and, as nutritive matter, for the time be wasted. + +Lastly, it is doubtful if bran alone contains enough of starch, or of +any substitute for it, to meet the other demands of the human system. I +have not spoken of the use of the starch of the grain in the preceding +observations, because, as both whole meal and fine flour contain a +sufficient quantity of it to supply the wants of the living animal, it +was unnecessary to the main object of this paper. But with bran the case +is different. It is doubtful if the purposes of the starch could be +fully, and with sufficient speed, fulfilled by the ingredients which, in +the bran, take the place of starch in the flour. The cellular fibre or +woody matter, of which it contains a considerable proportion, is too +slowly soluble in the stomachs of ordinary men. While, therefore, much +of it would pass through the body undigested, it would require to be +eaten in far larger proportions than its composition indicates, if the +body was to be supported, and thus a further waste would be incurred. + +On the whole, therefore, we come back to the whole meal, as the most +economical as well as the most nutritive and wholesome form in which the +grain of wheat can be consumed. The Deity has done far better for us, by +the natural mixtures to be found in the whole seed, than we can do for +ourselves. The materials, both in form and in proportion, are adjusted +in each seed, as wheat, in a way more suitable to us than any which, +with our present knowledge, we appear able to devise. + +A word to our Scottish readers, before we conclude. We do not recommend +to you even the whole meal of wheat as a substitute for your oatmeal or +your oaten-cake. The oat is more nutritive even than the whole grain of +wheat, taken weight for weight. For the growing boy, for the +hard-working man, and for the portly matron, oatmeal contains the +materials of the most hearty nourishment. This it owes in part to its +peculiar chemical composition, and in part to its being, as it is used +in Scotland, a kind of whole meal. The finely sifted oatmeal of +Yorkshire and Lancashire is not so agreeable to a Scottish taste, and, I +believe, is not so nutritious, as the rounder and coarser meal of the +more northern counties. + +While, therefore, the whole meal of wheat is superior to the fine flour, +in economy, in nutritive power, and in wholesomeness, and therefore +should be preferred by those who _must_ live upon wheat,--in all these +respects the oat has still the advantage, and therefore ought +religiously to be adhered to. You owe it to the experience of your +forefathers, for a thousand years, not to forsake it. + + _Lurham, 19th May, 1847._ + + + + +INDEX TO VOL. LXI. + + +Abdul Medjid, the Sultan, 693. + +Adalia, sketches of, 737. + +Addington, Henry, see _Sidmouth_. + +Addington, Hiley, 475. + +Adelaide, Madame, 2, 7, 8, 12. + +Adventures of the Connaught Rangers, review of, 457. + +Aidan, Bishop, 84. + +Albemarle, Lord, 201. + +Albert, Madame, 186. + +Ambrosio, General, 174. + +America, origin of the struggle with, 207. + +America, how they manage matters in, 492. + +America, North, 653. + +Ancient and Modern Ballad Poetry, 622. + +Anglo-Saxons, Lappenberg's History of the, reviewed, 79. + +Angouleme, the Duc d', 5, 6. + +Appert, B. Dix ans à la Cour du Roi Louis Philippe, review of, 1. + +Aquilius, Letter from, to Eusebius, 374 + --second, 501 + --third, 695. + +Arabs in Batavia, the, 321. + +Archangel, New, settlement of, 661. + +Armenians of Smyrna, the, 238. + +Arnal, a French actor, 185. + +Arnault, M., 15. + +Arthur, King, 81. + +Assessed Taxes, inequalities of, 248. + +Aumale, Duc d', 17. + + +Badajos, capture of, 468. + +Ballad Poetry, ancient and modern, 622. + +Balzac, M. de, 16, works of, 591. + +Banditti of Spain, the, 356. + +Batavia, city of, 320. + +Baths of Mont Dor, the, 448 + --the company at, 451 + --the forest, 454. + +Belgrade, siege and battle of, 36. + +Belisarius,--was he blind? 606. + +Benedict Biscop, 87. + +Bernard, Charles de, notices of the works of, 589. + +Berri, Duchesse de, 530. + +Blackwall, ode to, 59. + +Blucher, sketches of, 76. + +Bolingbroke, Lord, 204. + +Bonabat, village of, 241. + +Bouffé, Marie, 189. + +Boufflers, Marshal, 35, 36. + +Boujah, village of, 241. + +Bread, on the nutritive qualities of, by Professor Johnston, 768. + +Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, sonnets by: + --Life, 555 + --Love, _ib._ + --Heaven and Earth, 556 + --The Prospect, _ib._ + --Two Sketches, 683 + --The Mountaineer and the Poet, 684 + --the Poet, _ib._ + +Brunet, an actor, 187. + +Bruhl, Count, 209. + +Bunzelwitz, camp and battle of, 43. + +Buonaparte, Joseph, as King of Naples, 168. + +Burgos, the retreat from, 471. + +Burke, notices of, 483, 484, 487. + +Busaco, battle of, 460. + + +Canning, Peel's conduct towards, 97. + +California, sketches of, 662. + +Caravan Bridge of Smyrna, the, 239. + +Carbonari of Naples, the, 173. + +Cardinal's voyage, the, 430. + +Carlyle's Cromwell, review of, 392. + +Caroline, Queen of Naples, 164, 167. + +Catherine of Russia, intimacy of, with Voltaire, 537. + +Catholic question, Peel's conduct on the, 97. + +Catullus, translations from, No. I., 374 + --No. II., 501 + --No. III., 695. + +Cave of the Regicides, the, and how three of them fared in New +England, 333. + +Championet, General, capture of Naples by, 163. + +Chapelle, an actor, 185. + +Charles X., accession of, 6. + +Charles de Bernard, works of, 589. + +Chateauroux, the Duchess of, 206, 530. + +Chatham, Lord, 474, 475. + +Cheri, Rose, 191. + +Chesterfield, Lord, character of, by Walpole, 198. + +Chinese in Batavia, the, 321. + +Church rate, inequality of the, 250. + +Ciudad Rodrigo, capture of, 467. + +Claqueurs of Paris, the, 183. + +Collier's book of Roxburghe ballads, review of, 622. + +Connaught Rangers, sketches of the, 457. + +Constantine Kanaris, epitaph of, 644. + +Constantinople, and the declining state of the Ottoman empire, 685. + +Corn law, Peel's conduct regarding the, 99. + +Court of Louis Philippe, sketches of the, 1. + +Cromwell, Carlyle's life of, reviewed, 392. + +Cunnersdorf, battle of, 42. + +Cunningham's poems and songs, review of, 622. + + +Dardanelles, the, 686. + +Daun, Marshal, 40, 42. + +Dejazet the actress, 189. + +Delta, Scottish Melodies by: + --Eric's Dirge, 91 + --The Stormy Sea, _ib._ + --The Maid of Ulva, 645 + --Lament for Macrimmon, _ib._ + +Direct Taxation, on, 243 + --true principles of, 258. + +Divining Rod, the, 368. + +Dixwell, John, the Regicide, 338. + +Doche, Madame, 187. + +Doddington, Bubb, 201, 202, 210. + +Doré, a French robber, sketches of, 4. + +Dubois, the Abbé, 530. + +Duckworth, Sir John, forcing of the Dardanelles by, 686. + +Dumas, General, 168. + +Dumas, M. de, and his works, 16, 590, 591. + +Durham, Lord, 15, 16. + +Dutch, cruelties of the, in Java, 327. + + +Early Taken, the, 230. + +Egmont, Lord, 197. + +Ekaterineburg, town of, 671. + +England, uniform triumphs of, over France, 48. + +Epigrams, 361. + +Epitaphs, 57, 61. + +Epitaph of Constantine Kanaris, the, 644. + +Eric's dirge, by Delta, 91. + +Erith, village of, 423. + +Erskine, Lord, 488. + +Eugene, Marlborough, Frederick, Napoleon, and Wellington, 34. + +Eusebius, letters to--Horæ Catullianæ, 374, 501, 695. + + +Famine, lessons from the, 515. + +Ferdinand, king of Naples, 163, 164, 167. + +Ferguson of Pitfour, anecdotes of, 488. + +Fighting Eighty-eighth, the, 457. + +Flour, on the various kinds of, and their nutritive qualities, 768. + +Fontenoy, battle of, 535. + +Ford's gatherings from Spain, review of, 350. + +Fossa del Maritimo, prison of, 167. + +Fox, anecdotes of, 488. + +France, the modern court of, 1. + +France, uniform triumphs of England over, 48. + +France, Walpole's picture of, 206. + +France, letter on, 547. + +Frederick the Great, sketch of the career of, and comparison of him +with Marlborough and others, 37 + --his intimacy with Voltaire, 537. + +Frederick, prince of Wales, death of, and his character, 200. + +Free trade in connexion with taxation, 243. + +French players and playhouses, 177. + +Fuentes d' Onore, battle of, 462. + + +Galata, sketches of, 688. + +General Mack: a Christmas carol, 92. + +George II., Walpole's reign of, reviewed, 194. + +George III., anecdotes of, 490. + +Georges, characteristics of the reigns of the, 211. + +Ghosts, letters on, 440, 541. + +Gneisenau, General, 77. + +Goffe the Regicide, 333. + +Gold district of Siberia, the, 671. + +Grand Opera at Paris, the, 180, 182. + +Grattan's Adventures of the Connaught Rangers, review of, 457. + +Greeks of Adalia, the, 750. + +Grey, Lord, first appearance of, 479. + +Guilleminot, Count, 6. + +Gutch's Robin Hood, review of, 622. + +Gymnase Dramatique at Paris, the, 190. + + +Hastings, Warren, trial of, 478, 487. + +Heaven and Earth, a Sonnet, 556. + +Heptarchy, the, 79. + +Hervey's Theatres of Paris, review of, 177. + +Highway Rates, inequalities of, 249. + +Hohenfriedberg, battle of, 39. + +Hohenkirchen, battle of, 42. + +Horæ Catullianæ, No. I., 374 + --No. II., 501 + --No. III., 695. + +Horn, Count de, execution of, 534. + +How they manage matters in the model republic, 492. + +How to build a house and live in it,--No. III., 727. + +Hughes' Overland Journey to Lisbon, review of, 350. + +Hymn of King Olaf the Saint, the, altered from the Icelandic, 682. + + +Imeeo, residence on island of, 763. + +Income Tax, inequalities of the, 253. + +Indian Life, anecdotes of, 658, 659, 660. + +Indirect Taxes, probable abandonment of, in Great Britain, 244, 245. + +Ireland, state of, under George II., 205 + --necessity of Poor Law for, 247 + --unjust exemption from taxation enjoyed by, 256. + +Isle of Dogs, the, 50 + --tradition regarding, 52. + +Italian History, modern, 162. + + +Java, sketches of, 318. + +Joinville, Prince de, 17. + +Johnston, Professor, on the nutritive qualities of the Bread now +in use, 768. + +Jones, Neville, 205. + +Jutland 130 years since, from the Danish + --I., the Deer Rider, 286 + --II., Ansbjerg, 289 + --III., the Nisse, 292 + --IV., the Elopement, 297 + --V., the Horse Garden, 303. + + +Kawashes of Turkey, the, 235. + +Khan of Magnesia, the, 309. + +Khans of Turkey, the, 236. + +Kiachta, town of, 670. + +Kolin, battle of, 41. + +Krasnoyayk, town of, 671. + + +Lafayette, sketches of, 5. + +Lament for Macrimmon, by Delta, 645. + +Land, injustice of the freedom of, from legacy duty, 246. + +Land Tax, injustice of the, 248. + +Landsheck, battle of, 42. + +Lappenberg's Anglo-Saxons, review of, 79. + +Latest from the Peninsula, 350. + +Law of Lauriston, 533, 534. + +Lays and Legends of the Thames, No. II., 49 + --the Isle of Dogs, 50 + --the Song of the Mail Coachman, 51 + --the Presentation, 55 + --Epitaphs, 57, 61 + --Ode to Blackwall, 59 + --the Poet's Auction, 62 + --No. III., 423 + --the Vision, 424 + --the Arsenal, 426 + --True Love, 428 + --the Cardinals' voyage, 430. + +Legacy duty, inequality of the, 246. + +Lemaitre, the Marquis, 166. + +Lemaitre, Frederick, 188. + +Lena, the river, 669. + +Lessons from the Famine, 515. + +Letters on the Truths contained in Popular Superstitions, + --No. I., the Divining Rod, 368 + --II., Vampyrism, 432 + --III., Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, 440 + --IV., Real Ghosts and Second Sight, 541 + --V., Trance and Sleep-waking, 547 + --VI., Religious Delusions, the Possessed, Witchcraft, 673. + +Lettres de Cachet, profligate use of, in France, 538. + +Levasseur the actor, 192. + +Leuthen, battle of, 41. + +Life, a sonnet, 555. + +Lord Sidmouth's Life and Times, 473. + +Louis XV., sketches of, by Walpole, 206. + +Louis XV., De Tocqueville's Memoirs of, reviewed, 525. + +Louis Philippe, sketches of the court of, 1 + --his elevation, 8 + --and personal habits, 9. + +Love, a sonnet, 555. + +Lowositz, battle of, 40. + + +Macdonald, General, administration of Naples by, 164. + +Mack, General, a Christmas carol, 92. + +Mack, General, at Naples, 163. + +Magnesia, a ride to, stage first, 231 + --II. 305. + +Mahmood, the Sultan, 694. + +Maid of Ulva, the, by Delta, 645. + +Maida, battle of, 168. + +Mail Coachman, song of the, 51. + +Maison Dorée at Paris, the, 177. + +Mammone, a Neapolitan bandit, 164. + +Mammoth deposits of Siberia, the, 670. + +Maria Theresa, accession of, and war against, 38. + +Marie Amelie, Queen of Louis Philippe, 7, 8, 11. + +Marlborough, comparison of, with Eugene, &c., 34. + +Marriage Bill, the Scotch, 646. + +Marsin, Marshal, 35. + +Massillon, 532. + +Mazarine, Cardinal, French Opera originated by, 180. + +Melville's Omoo, review of, 754. + +Mérimée, Prosper, notices of the works of, 695. + +Merkatz, Lieutenant, 67, 68. + +Mexican War, the, 667. + +Mildred, a tale, Chap. IV., 18 + --Chap. V., 23 + --Chap. VI., 28 + --Chap. VII., 213 + --Chap. VIII., 217 + --Chap. IX., 222. + +Minden, battle of, 42. + +Minerals of Lake Superior, the, 658. + +Mississippi Scheme, the, 533. + +Modern Italian History, 162. + +Mollwitz, battle of, 38. + +Mont Dor, baths of, 448. + +Montebello, Duchess of, 5. + +Monterey, town of, 664. + +Montreal, town of, 655. + +Motherwell's Poems, review of, 622. + +Mountaineer and Poet, the, a sonnet, 684. + +Muleteers of Spain, the, 352, 354. + +Murat, sketches of, 166, 167 + --as King of Naples, 170 + --death of, 175, 176. + +Murray, a Jacobite, sketches of, 196. + +Music, Turkish, 749. + +Mytilene, Island of, 736. + + +Naples, sketch of the recent history of, 162. + +Napoleon, comparison of Frederick the Great with, 34, 45. + +Nashua, town of, 654. + +Nemours, the Duc de, 17. + +New Archangel, settlement of, 661. + +New Sentimental Journey, a + --the Baths of Mont Dor, 448 + --the Company, 451 + --the Forest, 454. + +Newcastle, the Duke of, character of, by Walpole, 202. + +New England, Residence of three of the Regicides in, 333. + +Newhaven, grave of the Regicides at, 334. + +North America, Siberia, and Russia, 653. + +Nugent, Lord, Walpole's character of, 197. + + +Oatmeal, superiority of, to wheat, 772. + +Ochotsk, town of, 668. + +Oglou, Pasha, 235. + +Olaf the Saint, the Hymn of, altered from the Icelandic, 682. + +Omoo, review of, 754. + +Orleans, Dowager Duchess of, Anecdote of, 11. + +Orleans, the Regent, 530. + +Opera Comique at Paris, the, 180. + +Oswald, Prince, 84. + +Ottoman Empire, present state of the, 685. + +Overland Journey round the Globe, Simpson's, review of, 653. + + +Pacific Rovings, 754. + +Pano di Grajo, a Neapolitan leader, 165, 169. + +Palais Royal, the, 191. + +Paris, Sketches of Society in, 13. + +Passaruang, town of, 332. + +Pauperism and its treatment, 261. + +Peel, Sir Robert, reflections on the career of, 93. + +Pelham, Lord, 204, 206. + +Pellew's Life of Sidmouth, review of, 473. + +Peninsula, latest from the, 350. + +Pépé, General, review of the memoirs of, 162. + +Pépé, Florestano, 172. + +Personal character, importance of, to a statesman, 93. + +Peterwardin, battle of, 36. + +Picton and the Connaught Rangers, 457. + +Pitt, first appearance of, 476 + --notices of, 483, 484. + +Poacher, the, or Jutland 130 years since, from the Danish. + --I. The Deer Rider, 286. + --II. Ansbjerg, 289. + --III. The Nisse, 292. + --IV. The Elopement, 297. + --V. The Horse Garden, 303. + +Poet, the, a Sonnet, 684. + +Poet's Auction, the, 62. + +Poetry + --Eric's Dirge, by Delta, 91 + --the Stormy Sea, by the same, _ib._ + --General Mack, 92 + --the Early Taken, 230 + --To the Stethoscope, 361 + --Epigrams, 367 + --Four Sonnets, namely, Life, Love, Heaven and Earth, the Prospect, + by E. B. Browning, 555 + --Epitaph of Constantine Kanaris, 644 + --The Maid of Ulva, by Delta, 645 + --The Lament of Macrimmon, by the same, _ib._ + --The Hymn of King Olaf the Saint, 682 + --Four Sonnets, by Elizabeth B. Browning, 683. + +Police Rates, inequalities of, 250. + +Polynesia, sketches of, 754. + +Pomaree, Queen, 761, 766. + +Pompadour, Madame de, 206. + +Poor, treatment of the, 262. + +Poors'-rate, inequality of the, 247. + +Popular Superstitions, Letters on the truths contained in, No. I. The +Divining Rod, 368 + --II. Vampyrism, 432 + --III. Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, 440 + --IV. Real Ghosts and Second-sight, 541 + --V. Trance and Sleep-waking, 547 + --VI. Religious Delusions: the Possessed: Witchcraft, 673. + +Portuguese troops, character of the, 464. + +Possession, Demoniacal, letter on, 673. + +Premier, reflections: suggested by the career of the late, 93. + +Prospect, the, a Sonnet, 556. + +Prosper Mérimée, notices of the works of, 695. + +Prussian Military Memoirs, 65. + + +Rahden, Baron von, wanderings of an old soldier, reviewed, 65. + +Railways in Spain, 352. + +Raval the Actor, 193. + +Red River Settlement, the, 659. + +Reflections suggested by the career of the late Premier, 93. + +Regicides, cave of the, and how three of them fared in New England, 333. + +Regnier, defeat of, at Maida, 168. + +Reichenbach, Count, 68. + +Reign of George II., the, 194. + +Religious Delusions, letter on, 673. + +Ride to Magnesia, a + --stage I. 231 + --II. 305. + +Robinson, Sir Thomas, 209. + +Rosama, a tale of Madrid, 557. + +Rosbach, battle of, 41. + +Royal Arsenal, the, 426. + +Ruffo, Cardinal, 164. + +Russia, sketches of, 668. + + +Salamanca, battle of, 470. + +Samson, the executioner of Paris, 15. + +Sanchez, Julian, a Spanish Guerilla leader, 463. + +San Francisco, harbour of, 662. + +Santa Barbara, town of, 665. + +Saxe, Marshal, 535. + +Saxony, conquest of, by Frederick the Great, 40. + +Scio, Island of, 748. + +Scotch Marriage Bill, the, 646. + +Scotland, new poor law for, 247. + +Scottish Melodies, by Delta, Eric's Dirge, 91 + --The Stormy Sea, _ib._ + --The Maid of Ulva, 645 + --Lament for Macrimmon, _ib._ + +Secker, Archbishop, character of, 198. + +Second-sight, letter on, 541. + +Selberg's Java, review of, 318. + +Sentimental Journey, a, see _New_. + +Sheldon's Border Minstrelsy, review of, 622. + +Sheridan, speech of, on the Begum question, 478 + --notices of, 488. + +Siberia, sketches of, 668. + +Sidmouth, Lord, life and times of, 473. + +Simpson's Overland Journey Round the World, review of, 653. + +Sitka, Settlement of, 661. + +Sleep-waking, letter on, 547. + +Smith, John William, memoir of, by Samuel Warren, 129. + +Smyrna, city of, 231, 233, 735. + +Soor, battle of, 39. + +Spain, sketches of modern, 350. + +Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, letter on, 440. + +Stamboul, sketches of, 689. + +Stamp Duties, inequalities of, 250. + +Stethoscope, to the, 361. + +Stewart, Sir John, 169. + +Storming of the Redoubt, the, 724. + +Stormy Sea, the, by Delta, 91. + +Sue, Engene, 591. + +Superior, Lake, the minerals of, 658. + +Surabaya, town of, 324. + + +Tahiti, sketches of, 758. + +Taxation, direct, 243, + true principles of, 258. + +Thames, Lays and Legends of the, _see_ Lays. + +Theatres of Paris, the, 177. + +Theatre des Variétés, the, 187. + +Thill, Colonel, 77. + +Thorpe's translation of Lappenberg's Anglo-Saxons, review of, 79, 80. + +Tiger Hunting in Java, 326. + +Tocqueville's History of the reign of Louis XV., review of, 525. + +Torgau, battle of, 43. + +Treatment of Pauperism, on the, 261. + +True Love, 428. + +Turin, battle of, 35. + +Turkey, present state of, 685. + +Turkish Manners, sketches of, 231. + +Turkish Watering Place, a, 735. + +Turning Dervishes, the, 689. + +Two Sketches, by E. B. Browning, 683. + + +United States, war of the, with Mexico, 667. + +Ural mountains, mines of the, 671. + + +Vallego, General, 663. + +Valona, town of, 231. + +Vampyrism, letter on, 432. + +Vaudeville at Paris, the, 184, 185. + +Vestris, the Dancer, 181. + +Vidocq, the Thief-taker, 15. + +Villeroi, Marshal, 35. + +Visible and Tangible, the, a metaphysical fragment, 580. + +Vision, the, 424. + +Voltaire, sketches of, 536, 537. + + +Walpole's reign of George II., review of, 194. + +Walpole, Sir Robert, notices of, 197, 203, 204. + +Warren, Samuel, memoir of the late John William Smith by, 129. + +Watermen of London, the, 262. + +Wellington, comparison of Marlborough with, 34 + --Sketches of, by Von Rahden, 75, 76. + +Whalley the Regicide, 333. + +Wheat, on the nutritive qualities of, and the various kinds of +flour from it, 768. + +Wilberforce, anecdotes of, 480. + +Wilfrith, Bishop, 88. + +Witchcraft, letter on, 673. + + +Yakutsh, province of, 669. + +Yonge, Sir William, 191. + + +Zenta, battle of, 35. + +Zorndorf, battle of, 42. + +Zulares, valley of, 666. + + +END OF VOL. LXI. + + +_Printed by William Blackwood and Sons, Edinburgh._ + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume +61, No. 380, June, 1847, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, MAY, 1847 *** + +***** This file should be named 26484-8.txt or 26484-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/4/8/26484/ + +Produced by Brendan OConnor, Jonathan Ingram, Josephine +Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 61, No. 380, June, 1847 + +Author: Various + +Release Date: August 29, 2008 [EBook #26484] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, MAY, 1847 *** + + + + +Produced by Brendan OConnor, Jonathan Ingram, Josephine +Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Library of Early +Journals.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_653" id="Page_653">[Pg 653]</a></span></p> + + + +<h1>BLACKWOOD'S</h1> + +<h1>EDINBURGH MAGAZINE.</h1> + +<h3>No. CCCLXXX. JUNE, 1847. Vol. LXI.</h3> + +<p class="notes">Transcriber's note: Minor typos have been corrected and footnotes moved +to the end of the article. Table of contents has been created for the HTML version. +The index for Volume 61 is included at the end of this issue.</p> + + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> +<p> +<a href="#NORTH_AMERICA_SIBERIA_AND_RUSSIAA"><b>NORTH AMERICA, SIBERIA, AND RUSSIA.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#LETTERS_ON_THE_TRUTHS_CONTAINED_IN_POPULAR_SUPERSTITIONS"><b>LETTERS ON THE TRUTHS CONTAINED IN POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_HYMN_OF_KING_OLAF_THE_SAINT"><b>THE HYMN OF KING OLAF THE SAINT.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#FOUR_SONNETS_BY_ELIZABETH_BARRETT_BROWNING"><b>FOUR SONNETS BY ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#CONSTANTINOPLE_AND_THE_DECLINING_OF_THE_OTTOMAN_EMPIRE"><b>CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE DECLINING OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#HORAE_CATULLIANAE"><b>HORÆ CATULLIANÆ.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#PROSPER_MERIMEE"><b>PROSPER MÉRIMÉE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#HOW_TO_BUILD_A_HOUSE_AND_LIVE_IN_IT"><b>HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND LIVE IN IT.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#A_TURKISH_WATERING-PLACE"><b>A TURKISH WATERING-PLACE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#PACIFIC_ROVINGSC"><b>PACIFIC ROVINGS.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#ON_THE_NUTRITIVE_QUALITIES_OF_THE_BREAD_NOW_IN_USE"><b>ON THE NUTRITIVE QUALITIES OF THE BREAD NOW IN USE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#INDEX_TO_VOL_LXI"><b>INDEX TO VOL. LXI.</b></a><br /> +</p> +<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="NORTH_AMERICA_SIBERIA_AND_RUSSIAA" id="NORTH_AMERICA_SIBERIA_AND_RUSSIAA"></a>NORTH AMERICA, SIBERIA, AND RUSSIA.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></h2> + + +<p>The circumnavigation of the world is now a matter of ordinary occurrence +to our bold mariners: and after a few years it will be a sort of summer +excursion to our steamers. We shall have the requisitions of the +Travellers' Club more stringent as the sphere of action grows wider; and +no man will be eligible who has not paid a visit to Pekin, or sunned +himself in Siam.</p> + +<p>But a circuit of the globe on <i>terra firma</i> is, we believe, new. Sir +George Simpson will have no competitor, that we have ever heard, to +claim from him the honour of having first galloped right a-head—from +the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Pacific to the British +Channel. One or two slight divergencies of some thousand miles down the +smooth and sunny bosom of the Pacific, are to be reckoned as mere +episodes: but Sir George soon recovers his course, plunges in through +the regions of the polar star; defies time, trouble, and Tartary; +marches in the track of tribes, of which all but the names have expired; +follows the glories of conquerors, whose bones have mingled five hundred +years ago with the dust of the desert; gives a flying glance on one side +towards the Wall of China, and on the other towards the Arctic Circle; +still presses on, till he reaches the confines of the frozen +civilisation of the Russian empire; and sweeps along, among bowing +governors and prostrate serfs,—still but emerging from barbarism—until +he does homage to the pomp of the Russian court, and finally lands in +the soil of freedom, funds, and the income tax.</p> + +<p>What the actual object of all this gyration may have been, is not +revealed, nor, probably, <i>revealable</i> by a "Governor of the Hudson's Bay +territories," who, having the fear of <i>other</i> governors before his eyes, +dedicates his two handsome volumes to "The Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company;" but the late negotiations on Oregon, the Russian interest in +the new empire rising on the shore of the Northern Pacific, the vigorous +efforts of Russia to turn its Siberian world into a place of human +habitancy, and the unexpected interest directed to those regions by the +discovery of gold deposits which throw the old wealth of the Spanish +main into the shade, <i>might</i> be sufficient motives for the curiosity of +an individual of intelligence, and for the anxious inquiries of a great +company, bordering on two mighty powers in North America, both of them +more remarkable for the vigour of their ambition than for the reverence +of their hunters and fishers for the <i>jus gentium</i>.</p> + +<p>Those volumes, then, will supply a general and a very well conceived +estimate of immense tracts of the globe, hitherto but little known to +the English public. The view is clear, quick, and discriminative. The +countries of which it gives us a new knowledge are probably destined to +act with great power on our interests, some as the rivals of our +commerce, some as the depôts of our manufactures, and some as the +recipients of that overflow of population which Europe is now pouring +out from all her fields on the open wilderness of the world.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_654" id="Page_654">[Pg 654]</a></span></p><p>This spread of emigration to the north is a curious instance of the +reflux of the human tide; for, from the north evidently was Europe +originally peopled. Japhet was a powerful propeller; and often as he has +dwelt in the tents of Shem, he is likely to overwhelm the whole +territory of the southern brother once more. The Turk, the Egyptian, the +man of Asia Minor, the man of Thrace, will yet be but tribes in that +army of the new Xerxes which, pouring from Moscow, and impelled from St +Petersburg, will renew the invasions of Genghiz and Tamerlane, and try +the civilized strength of the west against the wild courage and +countless multitudes of Tartary. Into this strange, but important, and +prospectively powerful country, we now follow the traveller. Embarking +from Liverpool in the Caledonia, a vessel of 1300 tons and 450 horse +power, he was amply prepared to face the perils of the most stormy of +all oceans, the Atlantic. The run across lad the usual fortunes of all +voyages, and within a week after their departure from <i>terra firma</i> they +saw a whale, who saw them with rather more indifference, for he lay +lounging on the surface until the steamer had nearly run over him. At +last he dived down, and was seen no more. Next day, while there was so +little wind, that all their light canvass was set, they saw the +phenomenon of a ship under close-reefed topsails. This apparent timidity +was laughed at by some of the passengers, but the more experienced +guessed that the vessel had come out of a gale, of which they were +likely to have a share before long, a conjecture which was soon +verified.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 9th day, the captain, discovering that the +barometer had fallen between two and three inches during the night, due +preparations were of course made to meet the storm. It came on in the +afternoon, a hurricane. Then followed the usual havock of boats and +canvass, the surges making a clean breach over the deck; the passengers, +of course, gave themselves up for lost, and even the crew are said to +have been pretty nearly of the same opinion. However, the wind went down +at last, the sea grew comparatively smooth, and in twenty-four hours +more, they found themselves on the banks of Newfoundland. The writer +thinks that it was fortunate for them that the storm had not caught them +in the short swell of these shallow waters, as was probably the case of +the President, whose melancholy fate so long excited, and still excites +a feeling of surprise and sorrow in the public mind.</p> + +<p>It was lost in this very storm. Next day came another of the sea +wonders. The cry of land started them all from the dinner table; but the +land happened to be an immense field of ice, which, with the +inequalities of its surface and the effect of refraction, presented some +appearance of a wooded country. On that night the cry of "Light a-head," +while they were still several hundred miles from land, excited new +astonishment. "All the knowing ones" clearly distinguished a magnificent +revolver. The paddles were accordingly stopped to have a cast of the +lead, but in another half hour it was ascertained that the revolver was +a newly risen star.</p> + +<p>At length land was really seen, and after a run of fourteen days, they +cast anchor in the harbour of Halifax. But as Boston was their true +destination they steered for it at once. Their progress had been rapid, +for they entered Boston Bay in thirty-six hours from Halifax, a distance +of 390 miles. Boston is more English looking than New York. The gently +undulating shores of the bay, highly cultivated, bring to memory the +green hills of England, and within the town the buildings and the +inhabitants have a peculiarly English air.</p> + +<p>As speed was an object, the party immediately left the town by the +railway, passing through Lowell and reaching Nashua. This is one of the +rapid growths of America. In 1819 this place was a village of but +nineteen houses. It now contains 19,000 inhabitants, with churches, +hotels, prisons, and banks. Here the party went off in two detachments, +one in a sleigh with six horses, and the other rattled along in a +coach-and-four. At the next stage the author exchanged the coach for a +sleigh, a matter of no great importance to the world, but which may be +mentioned as a caution against rash changes. For the first few miles the +new conveyance went on merrily, and the passengers congratulated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_655" id="Page_655">[Pg 655]</a></span> +themselves on their wisdom. We must now let him speak for himself.</p> + +<p>"The sun, as the day advanced, kept thawing the snow, till at last, on +coming to a deep drift, we were repeatedly obliged to get out, sometimes +walking up to the knees, and sometimes helping to lift the vehicle out +of the snow. However, at length we fairly stuck fast, in spite of all +our hauling and pushing. The horses struggled and plunged to no purpose, +excepting that the leaders, after breaking part of their tackle, +galloped off over the hills and far away, leaving us to kick our heels +in the slush, till they were brought back after a chase of several +miles."</p> + +<p>The road now passed through Vermont, the state of green mountains. The +country appeared striking; and Montpelier, where they breakfasted, seems +to be a very pretty place, looking more the residence of hereditary ease +and luxury, than the capital of a republic of thrifty graziers. It is, +in fact, an assemblage of villas; the wide streets run between rows of +trees, and the houses, each in its own little garden, are shaded by +verandas.</p> + +<p>In that very pleasant little book, the "Miseries of Human Life," one of +those small calamities is, the being called at the wrong hour to go off +in the wrong coach from a Yorkshire inn. Time and the railroad have +changed all this in England, but in America we have the primitive misery +well described.</p> + +<p>The author, after forty-two hours of hard jolting, goes to bed at one +o'clock to obtain a little repose, leaving orders to be called at five +in the morning. He is wrapt in the profoundest of all possible slumbers, +when a peal of blows is heard at his door. "In spite, however, of +laziness, and a cold morning to boot," he says, "I had completed the +operations of washing and dressing by candlelight, having even donned +hat and gloves, to join my companions, when the waiter entered my room +with a grin. 'I guess,' said the rascal, 'I have put my foot in it. Are +you the man that wanted to be called at two?' 'No,' was my reply. +'Then,' said he, 'I calculate I have fixed the wrong man, so you had +better go to bed again.' Having delivered himself of this friendly +advice, he went to awaken my neighbour, who had all this time been +quietly enjoying the sleep that properly belonged to me. Instead of +following the fellow's recommendation, I sat up for the rest of the +night." Whether the author possessed a watch we cannot tell, but if he +was master of that useful and not very rare article, he might have saved +himself his premature trouble, and escaped shaving at midnight.</p> + +<p>On crossing into the Canadian territory, he encounters one of those +evidences of popular liberty which belong to rather the American than +the English side. In the village of St John's, some of the party went +a-head to the principal inn, and as it was late at night, and their +knocking produced no effect, they appealed to what they regarded as the +most accessible of the landlord's susceptibilities, his pocket, by +saying that they were fourteen, more coming, with a whole host of +drivers. This appeal was the most unlucky possible, for the landlord had +another sensibility, the fear of being tarred and feathered, if not +hanged. On the door being opened at last, the landlord was not to be +found; his brother wandered about, the very ghost of despair. The +establishment was searched upside and downside, inside and outside, in +vain; and they began to think themselves the cause of some domestic +tragedy; but it must have been a late perpetration, for on looking into +his bed, they found the lair warm.</p> + +<p>However, after a short time, mine host returned with a face all smiles. +The mystery was then explained. The election had taken place during the +day, and the landlord, having taken the part of the candidate who +eventually succeeded, was threatened with vengeance by the losing party. +The arrival of the travellers convinced him that his hour was come, and +he had jumped out of bed and hidden himself in some inscrutable corner. +But a good supper reconciled every thing.</p> + +<p>The author crossed the ice to Montreal, and had a showy view of the +metropolis of the Canadas. A curious observation is suggested by +Montreal, on the different characters of the English and French +population. In the days of Wolf and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_656" id="Page_656">[Pg 656]</a></span> Amherst, it was all French; but +John Bull, with his spirit of activity and industry, has quietly become +master of all the trading situations of the city, while the French have +as quietly retreated, and spread themselves through the upper sections +of it, to a great degree cut off from its commercial portions.</p> + +<p>From Montreal the travel began. The heavy canoes were sent forward some +days before, under the charge of some of the Company's officers, the +light canoes waited for the author, with Colonel Oldfield, chief +engineer in Canada, who was going up the country on a survey of the +navigation, and the Earls of Mulgrave and Caledon, who were going to the +Red River, buffalo-hunting.</p> + +<p>All was now ready in form, and on the 4th of May the two canoes were +floating on the Lactrine canal. The crews, thirteen to one vessel, and +fourteen to the other, were partly Canadians, but principally Iroquois. +Those <i>voyageurs</i>, as they are called, had each been supplied with a +feather in his cap, in honour of the occasion, and evidently expected to +produce a <i>sensation</i> on shore. But a north-wester blowing prevented the +hoisting of their flags, which mulcted the pageant of much of its +intended glory. These canoes are thirty-five feet in length, and five +feet wide in the centre; drawing about eighteen inches water, and +weighing between three and four hundred pounds; capitally fitted for a +navigation among rocks, rapids, and portages; but they seem most +uncomfortable in rough weather. The waves of the St Lawrence rolled like +a sea, the gale was biting, and the snow drifted heavily in the faces of +the party. In this luckless condition, we are not surprised at the +intelligence, that at St Anne's Rapids, notwithstanding the authority of +the poet, "they sang no evening hymn."</p> + +<p>This style of travelling was not certainly much mingled with luxury. +Next morning, after "toiling for six hours," they breakfasted, "with the +wet ground for their table, and with rain in place of milk to cool their +tea." On this day, while running close under the falls of the Rideau, +they seem to have had a narrow escape from a <i>finale</i> to their voyage; +their canoes being swept into the middle of the river, under an immense +fall, fifty feet in height.</p> + +<p>They now learned the art of <i>bivouaching</i>, and after a day of toiling +through portages, reserving the severest of them, the Grand Calumet, for +the renewed vigour of the morning, they made ready for the forest night. +The description, brief as it is, is one among many which shows the +<i>artist</i> eye.</p> + +<p>"The tents were pitched in a small clump of pines, while round a blazing +fire the passengers were collected, amid a medley of boxes, barrels, +cloaks, and on the rock above the foaming rapids were lying the canoes; +the men flitting about the fires as if they were enjoying a holiday, and +watching a huge cauldron suspended above the fire. The whole with a +background of dense woods and a lake."</p> + +<p>Yet, startling as this "wooing of nature" in her rough moods may seem to +the silk-and-velvet portion of the world, we doubt whether this wild +life, with its desperate toil and its ground sleep, may not be the true +charm of travel to saint, savage, or sage, when once fairly forced to +the experiment. The blazing fire, the bed of leaves, the gay supper, +made gayer still by incomparable appetite, and the sleep after all, in +which the whole outward man remains imbedded, without the movement of a +muscle and without a dream, until the morning awakes him up a new being, +are fully worth all the inventions of art, to make us enjoy rest +unearned by fatigue, and food without waiting for appetite. "The sleep +of the weary man is sweet," said the ancient and wise king who slept +among curtains of gold, and under roofs of cedar; the true way to taste +that sleep is to spend a day, dragging canoes up Indian portages, and +lie down with one's feet warmed by a pine blaze and one's back to the +shelter of a forest.</p> + +<p>But, as the time will assuredly come when this "life in the woods" will +be no more, when huge inns will supersede the canopy of the skies, and +down beds will make the memory of birch twigs and heather blossoms pass +away, we give from authority the proceedings of an evening's rest, which +the next generation will study<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_657" id="Page_657">[Pg 657]</a></span> with somewhat of the feeling of reading +Tacitus De Moribus Germanorum.</p> + +<p>As the sun approached his setting, every eye in the canoes, as they +pulled along, was speculating on some dry and tolerably open spot on the +shore. <i>That</i> once found, all were on shore in an instant. Then the axe +was heard ringing among the trees, to prepare for the fires, and make +room for the tents. In ten minutes, the tents were pitched, the fires +blazing in front of each, and the supper preparing in all its +diversities. The beds were next made, consisting of an oil-cloth laid on +the ground, with blankets and a pillow; occasionally aided by +great-coats, <i>à discretion</i>. The crews, drawing the canoes on shore, +first made an inspection of their hurts during the day; and having done +this, the little vessels were turned into a shelter, and each man +wrapping himself in his blanket defied the weather and the world.</p> + +<p>But this state of happiness was never destined to last long. About <i>one</i> +in the morning, the cry, of "<i>Leve</i>, <i>leve</i>," broke all slumbers. We +must acknowledge that the hour seems premature, and that the most +patient of travellers might have solicited a couple of hours more of +"tired Nature's sweet restorer." But the discipline of the bivouac was +Spartan. If the slumberer did not instantly start up, the tent was +pulled down about him, and he found himself half-smothered in canvass. +However, we must presume that this seldom happened, and, within half an +hour, every thing would be packed, the canoes laden, and the paddles +moving to some "merry old song." In this manner passed the day, six +hours of rest, to eighteen of labour, a tremendous disproportion, even +to the sturdy Englishman, or the active Irishman, but perfectly +congenial to the sinews and spirit of the gay <i>voyageur</i>.</p> + +<p>A few touches more give the complete picture of the day. About eight, a +convenient site would be selected for breakfast. Three-quarters of an +hour being the whole time allotted for unpacking and packing, boiling +and frying, eating and drinking. "While the preliminaries were +arranging, the <i>hardier</i> among us would wash and shave, each person +carrying soap and towel in his pocket, and finding a <i>mirror</i> in the +same sandy or rocky basin which held the water. About two in the +afternoon, we put ashore for dinner, and as this meal needed no fire, +or, at least, got none, it was not allowed to occupy more than twenty +minutes, or half an hour."</p> + +<p>We recommend the following considerations to the amateur boat clubs, and +others, who plume themselves on their naval achievements between Putney +and Vauxhall bridges. Let them take the work of a Canadian paddle-man to +heart, and lower their plumage accordingly.</p> + +<p>"The quality of the work, even more than the quantity, requires +operatives of iron mould. In smooth water, the paddle is plied with +twice the rapidity of the oar, taxing both arms and lungs to the utmost +extent. Amid shallows, the canoe is literally dragged by the men, wading +to their knees or their loins, while each poor fellow, after replacing +his drier half in his seat, laughingly strikes the heavier of the wet +from his legs over the gunwale, before he gives them an inside berth. In +rapids, the towing line has to be hauled along over rocks and stumps, +through swamps and thickets, excepting that when the ground is utterly +impracticable, poles are substituted, and occasionally also the bushes +on the shore."</p> + +<p>This however is "plain sailing," to the Portages, where the tracks are +of all imaginable kinds and degrees of badness, and the canoes and their +cargoes are never carried across in less than two or three trips; the +little vessels alone monopolizing, in the first turn, the more expert +half of their respective crews. Of the baggage, each man has to carry at +least two pieces, estimated at a hundred and eighty pounds weight, which +he suspends in slings placed across his forehead, so that he may have +his hands free, to clear his way among the branches and standing or +fallen trunks. Besides all this, the <i>voyageur</i> performs the part of +bridge, or jetty, on the arrival of the canoe at its place of rest, the +gentlemen passengers being carried on shore on the backs of these +good-humoured and sinewy fellows.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_658" id="Page_658">[Pg 658]</a></span></p> + +<p>For the benefit of the untravelled, we should say, that a Portage is the +fragment of land-passage between the foot and head of a rapid, when the +rush of the stream is too strong for the tow-rope.</p> + +<p>At one of the halting-places on Lake Superior, a curious tale was told +of the Indian's belief in a Providence, of which it had been the scene.</p> + +<p>Three or four years before, a party of Salteaux, much pressed for +hunger, were anxious to reach one of their fishing stations, an island +about twenty miles from the shore. The spring had unluckily reached that +point, when there was neither clear water, nor trustworthy ice. A +council was being held, to consider the hard alternatives of drowning +and starving, when an old man of influence thus spoke:</p> + +<p>"You know, my friends, that the Great Spirit gave one of our squaws a +child yesterday; now, he cannot have sent it into the world to take it +away again directly. I should therefore recommend the carrying the child +with us, as the pledge of safety."</p> + +<p>We wish that we could have to record a successful issue to this +anticipation. But the transit was too much for the metaphysics of the +old Indian. They went on the treacherous ice, it gave way, and +eight-and-twenty perished.</p> + +<p>The Thunder Mountain on their route, struck them as "one of the most +appalling objects" which they had seen, being a bleak rock twelve +hundred feet high above the level of the lake, with a perpendicular face +of its full height. The Indians say, that any one who can scale it, and +"turn three times on the brink of its fearful wall, will live for ever." +We presume, by dying first.</p> + +<p>But the shores of this mighty lake, or rather fresh-water sea, which +seemed destined to loneliness for ever, are now likely to hear the din +of population and blaze with furnaces and factories. Its southern coasts +are found to possess rich veins of copper and silver. Later inquiry has +discovered on the northern shore "inexhaustible treasures of gold, +silver, copper, and tin," and associations have been already formed to +work them. Sir George Simpson even speaks of the future probability of +their rivalling in point of wealth the Altai chain, and the Uralian +mountains.</p> + +<p>From Fort William, at the head of Lake Superior, the little expedition +entered a river with a polysyllabic name, which leads farther on, to the +"Far West." The banks were beautiful. When this country shall be +peopled, it will be one of the resemblances of the primitive paradise.</p> + +<p>It is all picturesque; the river finely diversified with rapids, and +with one cataract which, though less in volume than Niagara, throws that +far-famed fall into the background, in point of height and wildness of +scenery. But we must leave description to the author's pen. "The river, +during this day's march, passed through forests of elm, oak, birch, &c., +being studded with isles not less fertile and lovely than its banks. And +many a spot reminded us of the rich and quiet scenery of England. The +paths of the numerous portages were spangled with roses, violets, and +many other wild flowers—while the currant, the gooseberry, the +raspberry, the plum, the cherry, and even the vine, were abundant. All +this bounty of nature was imbued, as it were, with life, by the cheerful +notes of a variety of birds, and by the restless flutter of butterflies +of the brightest hues." He then makes the natural and graceful +reflection—</p> + +<p>"One cannot pass through this fair valley without feeling that it is +destined to become, sooner or later, the happy home of civilised men, +with their bleating flocks, and their lowing herds—with their schools +and their churches—with their full garners, and their social hearths. +At the time of our visit, the great obstacle in the way of so blessed a +consummation was the hopeless wilderness to the eastward, which seemed +to bar for ever the march of settlement and cultivation, but which will +soon be an open road to the far west with all its riches. That +wilderness, now that it is to yield up its long-hidden stores, bids fair +to remove the impediments which hitherto it has itself presented. The +mines of Lake Superior, besides establishing a continuity of route +between the East and the West, will find their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_659" id="Page_659">[Pg 659]</a></span> nearest and cheapest +supply of agricultural produce in the valley of the Kaministaquoia."</p> + +<p>One of the especial hazards of the forest now encountered them. Passing +down a narrow creek near <i>Lac le Pluie</i>, fire suddenly burst forth in +the woods near them. The flames crackling and clambering up each tree, +quickly rose above the forest; within a few minutes more the dry grass +on the very margin of the waters, was in "a running blaze, and before +they were clear of the danger, they were almost enveloped in clouds of +smoke and ashes. These conflagrations, often caused by a wanderer's +fire, or even by his pipe, desolate large tracts of country, leaving +nothing but black and bare trunks, one of the most dismal scenes on +which the eye can look. When once the fire gets into the thick turf of +the primeval wilderness, it sets every thing at defiance. It has been +known to smoulder for a whole winter under the deep snow."</p> + +<p>Another Indian display quickly followed. After traversing the lake, they +were hailed by the warriors of the Salteaux, a band of about a hundred, +the fighting men of a tribe of five hundred. Their five chiefs presented +a congratulatory address on their safe arrival, requesting an audience, +which was appointed, at the rather undiplomatic hour of <i>four</i> next +morning. But, while the Governor was slumbering, the Indians were +preparing means of persuasion more effective, in their conceptions, than +even the oratory on which they seem to pride themselves very +highly—"while they were napping, the enemy were pelting away at them +with their incantations."</p> + +<p>In the centre of a conjuring tent—a structure of branches and bark, +forty feet in length by ten in width—they kindled a fire; round the +blaze stood the chiefs and "medicine men," while as many others as could +find room were squatted against the walls. Then, to enlighten and +convert the Governor, charms were muttered, rattles were shaken, and +offerings were committed to the flames. After all these operations the +silent spectators, at a given signal, started on their feet and marched +round the magic circle, singing, whooping, and drumming in horrible +discord. With occasional intervals, which were spent by the performers +in taking fresh air, the exhibition continued during the whole night, so +that when the appointed hour arrived they were still engaged in their +observances. At length the two parties met in the open square of the +fort. The Indians dressed in all their glory, a part of which consists +in smearing their faces entirely out of sight with colours—the +prevailing fashion being, forehead white, nose and cheeks red, mouth and +chin black.</p> + +<p>The Governor and his party of course made their best effort to meet all +this magnificence. Lord Caledon and Lord Mulgrave exhibited in +regimentals; the rest put on their <i>dressing-gowns</i>, which, being of +showy patterns, were equally effective. Seated in the "hall of +conference," the pipes being sent round, hands shaken, and all due +ceremonial having been performed, the Indian orator commenced his +harangue in the style with which we have now become familiar. Beginning +with the creation, &c. &c., which Sir George cut short, and suddenly +dropping down into the practical complaint, "that we had stopped their +rum," though our predecessors had promised to furnish it "as long as the +waters flowed down the rapids." "Now," said he, in allusion to our empty +casks, "if I crack a nut, will water flow from it?"</p> + +<p>The Governor replied, that the withdrawal of the rum was <i>not</i> to save +expense but to benefit them. He then gave them his advice on temperance, +and promised them a small quantity of rum every autumn. He also promised +a present for their civility in bringing their packet of furs, for which +they should receive payment besides. Then followed a general and final +shaking of hands, and the Congress between the English and Chippaway +nations broke up to their mutual satisfaction.</p> + +<p>The Red River settlement, of which we heard so often during the quarrels +between Lord Selkirk and the Company, will yet be a great colony; the +soil is very fertile (one of the most important elements of +colonisation,) its early tillage producing forty returns of wheat; and, +even after twenty years of tillage, without manure, fallow, or green +crop, yielding from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_660" id="Page_660">[Pg 660]</a></span> fifteen to twenty-five bushels an acre. The wheat +is plump and heavy, and, besides, there are large quantities of other +grain, with beef, mutton, pork, butter, cheese, and wool in abundance. +This would be the true country for emigration from our impoverished +islands, and will, of course, be crowded when conveyances shall become +more manageable. A railroad across Canada must still be a rather Utopian +conception, but it might be well worth the expense of making by +government, even though it produced nothing for the next half-dozen +years, for the multitudes whom it would carry through the heart of this +superb country in the half-dozen years after, and for the wealth which +they would pour into England in every year to come.</p> + +<p>The settlement, however, meets, in its turn, the common chances of an +American climate. In winter the cold is intense. The summer is short, +and the rivers sometimes overflow and drown the crops. Still what are +these things to the population, where food is plenty, the air healthy, +and the ground cheap, fertile and untaxed. In fact, the difficulties, in +such instances, are scarcely more than incitements to the ingenuity of +man, to provide resources against them. The season of snow is a time of +cheerfulness in every land of the north. In Denmark, Russia, and Canada, +when the rivers close up, business is laid by for the next six months; +and the time of dancing, driving, and feasting begins. Food is the great +requisite; when that is found, every thing follows.</p> + +<p>In addition to agriculture, or in place of it, the settlers, more +particularly those of mixed origin, devote the summer, the autumn, and +sometimes the winter also, to the hunting of the buffalo, bringing home +vast quantities of pemmican, dried meat, grease, tongues, &c. for which +the Company and voyaging business affords the best market.</p> + +<p>The party now proceeded, still with their faces turned to the west, and +marched for some days over an immense prairie, which seemed to them to +have been once the bottom of a huge lake. A rather striking circumstance +is, that nearly every height in this region has its romance of savage +life. We give one of murder, for the benefit of the modern school of +novelists.</p> + +<p>Many summers ago, a party of Assinabaians fell on a party of Crees in +the neighbourhood of the Beatte a Carcajar, a conspicuous knoll in this +neighbourhood, and nearly destroyed them all. Among the assailants was +the former wife of one of the Crees, who had been carried off from him, +in an earlier foray, by her present lord and master. From whatever +motive of domestic memory, this Amazon rushed into the thickest of the +fight, for the evident purpose of killing the original husband. He, +however, escaped; and while the victors were scalping his unfortunate +companions, creeping stealthily along for a whole day under cover of the +woods, he laid down at night in a hollow at the top of the Knoll. But +his wife had never lost sight of him, and no sooner had he, in the +exhaustion of hunger and fatigue, sunk into a sound sleep, than she sent +an arrow into his brain. She then possessed herself of his scalp, and +exhibited it as her prize to the victors. The title of the slain savage +was the Wolverine, and the spot is still called the Wolverine's Knoll.</p> + +<p>The Indians assert that the ghosts of the murderess and her victim are +often to be seen struggling on the height.</p> + +<p>Human nature, left to itself, is a fierce and frightful thing; and the +stories of savage life are nearly all of the same calibre, and all +exhibit a dreadful love of revenge. About twenty years ago, a large +encampment of Black-feet and others, had been formed in those prairies +for the purpose of hunting. The warriors, however, growing tired of +their peaceful occupation, resolved to make an incursion into the lands +of the Assinabaians. They left behind them the old men with the women +and children. After a successful campaign, they turned their steps +homewards, loaded with scalps and other spoils, and on reaching the top +of the ridge that overlooked their camp, they gave note of their +approach by the usual shouts of victory. But no shout answered, and on +descending to their huts, they found the whole of the inmates +slaughtered. The Assinabaians had been there to take their revenge.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_661" id="Page_661">[Pg 661]</a></span></p> + +<p>On beholding the dismal scene, the triumphant warriors cast away their +spoils, arms, and clothing, and then putting on robes of leather, and +smearing their heads with mud, they betook themselves to the hills for +three days and nights, to howl and moan, and cut their flesh. It is +observed, that this mode of expressing public grief, bears a striking +resemblance to the customs of the Jews. The track towards Fort Vancouver +exhibited a country, which may yet make a great figure in the American +world,—immense valleys sheltered by mountain ridges, and containing +beautiful lakes. In one instance, their tents were pitched in a valley +of about five hundred acres enclosed by mountains on three sides, and a +lake on the fourth. From the edge of the waters there arose a gentle +descent of six or eight hundred feet covered with vines, and composed of +the accumulated fragments of the heights above; and on the upper border +of this slope there stood perpendicular walls of granite of three or +four thousand feet high, while among those dizzy altitudes, the goats +and sheep bounded in playful security. This defile had been the scene of +an exploit. One of the Crees, whom they had met a few days before, had +been tracked into the valley along with his wife and family by five +warriors of a hostile tribe. On perceiving the odds against him, the man +gave himself up for lost, observing to the woman, that as they could die +but once, they had better die without resistance. The wife, however, +said, that "as they had but one life to lose, they had the more reason +to defend it," and, suiting the action to the word, the heroic wife +brought the foremost of the enemy down to the ground by a bullet, while +the husband disposed of two others by two arrows. The fourth warrior was +rushing on the woman with uplifted tomahawk, when he stumbled and fell. +She darted forward, and buried her knife in his heart. The sole +surviving assailant now turned and fled, discharging, however, a bullet +which wounded the man in the arm.</p> + +<p>They had now reached that rocky range from which the eastern and western +rivers of those mighty provinces take their common departure. Here they +estimated the height of the pass to be seven or eight thousand feet +above sea-level, while the peaks seemed to be nearly half that height +above their heads.</p> + +<p>Of course, the party often felt the torture of mosquitoes, but one +valley was so pre-eminently infested with those tormentors, that man and +beast alike preferred being nearly choked with smoke, in which they +plunged, for the sake of escaping their stings. But we advert to this +common plague of all forest travel, only for its legendary honours.</p> + +<p>"The Canadians vented their curses against the <span class="smcap">old maid</span>, who had the +credit of having brought the scourge upon earth, by praying for +something to fill up the leisure of her single blessedness." And if, as +the author observes, "the tormentors would confine themselves to +nunneries and monasteries, the world might see something more of the +fitness of things in the matter."</p> + +<p>At the close of August, the party reached Fort Vancouver, having crossed +the Continent, by a route of five thousand miles, in twelve weeks' +travelling.</p> + +<p>They now made a visit to the Russian-American Company's Establishment of +New Archangel. This exhibited considerable signs of commerce. In the +harbour were five sailing vessels from 250 to 350 tons; besides a large +bark in the offing in tow of a steamer, which brought advices from St +Petersburgh down to the end of April. An officer came off conveying +Governor Etholine's compliments and welcome. The party landed, and were +received in the residence situated on the top of a rock. The Governor's +dwelling consisted of a suite of apartments communicating, according to +the Russian fashion, with each other, all the public, rooms being +handsomely decorated and richly furnished. It commanded a view of the +whole establishment, which was, in fact, a little village. About half +way down the rock, two batteries frowned respectively over the land and +the water. Behind the Bay arise stupendous piles of conical mountains +with summits of everlasting snow. To seaward, Mount Edgecumbe, also in +the form of a cone, rears its trunk-headed peak, still<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_662" id="Page_662">[Pg 662]</a></span> remembered as +the source of smoke and flame, lava and ashes, but now the repository of +the snows of an age. Next day, the Governor, in full uniform, came in +his gig to return the visit to Sir George on board his steamer. The +party were invited on shore, where they were introduced to Madame +Etholine, a pretty and lady-like woman, a native of Finland. They then +visited the schools, in which there were twenty boys and as many girls; +the boys were intended chiefly for the naval service, nor did religion +seem to be neglected any more than education. The Greek Church had its +bishop, fifteen priests, deacons, and followers, and the Lutherans had +their clergyman. The ecclesiastics were all maintained by the Imperial +Government. Such is Sitka, the principal depot of the Russian-American +Company. It has various subordinate establishments. The operations of +the Company are becoming more extensive, and at this period the returns +of the trade amounted to about 25,000 skins of beavers, otters, foxes, +&c.</p> + +<p>Among the company at the Russian Governor's, was a half-breed native, +who had been the leader of an expedition equipped some years ago, for +the discovery of what would here be styled the North-East passage. The +Russians reached Point Barrow shortly after the expedition under Mr +Thomas Simpson had reached the same point from the opposite direction. +The climate seems to be sufficiently trying, and during the four days at +Sitka there was nearly one continued fall of rain. The weather was cold +and squally, snow had fallen, and the channels were traversed by +restless masses which had broken off from the glaciers. In short nothing +could exceed the dreariness of the coast.</p> + +<p>This shore, of which so much has been said and written during the late +Oregon negociations, is described as the very scene for the steam-boat. +Here are the Straits of Juan de Fuca; and here Admiral Fonte penetrated +up the more northerly inlets. They are the very region made for the +steam-boat, as in the case of a sailing vessel their dangers and delays +would have been tripled and quadrupled. But steam has also a power +almost superstitious on the minds of the natives; besides acting on +their fears, it has in a great measure subdued their love of robbery and +violence. It has given the savage a new sense of the superiority of his +white brother.</p> + +<p>A striking instance of this feeling is given. After the arrival of the +emigrants from Red River, their guide, an Indian, took a short trip in +the Beaver. When asked what he thought of her, "Don't ask me," was his +reply. "I cannot speak; my friends will think that I tell lies when I +let them know what I have seen. Indians are fools, and know nothing. I +can see that the iron machinery makes the ship go, but I cannot see what +makes the iron machinery itself go." This man, though intelligent, and +partly civilized, was nevertheless so full of doubt and wonder that he +would not leave the vessel till he had got a certificate to the effect +that he had been on board of a ship which needed neither sails nor +paddles,—any document in writing being regarded by the Indians as +unquestionable. Fort Vancouver—which will probably be the head of a +great colony, is about ninety miles from the sea, the Colombia in front +of it, being a mile in width—contains houses, stores, magazines, &c. +Outside the fort, the dwellings of the servants, &c. form a little +village. The people of the establishment vary in number, according to +the season of the year, from one hundred and thirty to more than two +hundred. Divine service is regularly performed every Sunday in English +to the Protestants. But at the time of this journal there was +unfortunately no English clergyman connected with the establishment.</p> + +<p>Sir George himself now visited California, the region which the Mexican +war is bringing into prominent notice. The harbour of San Francisco is +magnificent, the first view of the shore presented a level sward of +about a mile in depth, backed by a ridge of grassy slopes, the whole +pastured by numerous herds of cattle and horses, which, without a keeper +or a fold, fattened whether their owners waked or slept.</p> + +<p>The harbour displays a sheet of water of about thirty miles in length<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_663" id="Page_663">[Pg 663]</a></span> +by about twelve in breadth, sheltered from every wind by an amphitheatre +of green hills. But this sheet of water forms only a part in the inland +sea of San Francisco. Whaler's Harbour, at its own northern extremity, +communicates by a strait of about two miles in width with the bay of San +Pedro, which leads by means of a second strait into Fresh Water Bay, of +nearly the same form and magnitude, and which forms the receptacle, of +two great rivers, draining vast tracts of country to the south-east and +north-east, which are navigable for inland craft, so that the harbour, +besides its matchless qualities as a port of refuge on this surf-beaten +coast, is the outlet of an immense, fair, and fertile region.</p> + +<p>But the beauties of nature are useless when they fall into the hands of +idlers and fools. Every thing in those fine countries seems to be +boasting and beggary. Every thing has been long sinking into ruin, +through mere indolence. The Californians once manufactured the fleeces +of their sheep into cloth. They are now too lazy to weave or spin, too +lazy even to clip and wash the raw material, and now the sheep have been +literally destroyed to make more room for the horned cattle.</p> + +<p>They once made the dairy an object of attention, now neither butter nor +cheese is to be found in the province. They once produced in the +Missions eighty thousand bushels of wheat and maize,—they were lately +buying flour at Monterey at the rate of £6 a sack. Beef was once +plentiful,—they were now buying salted salmon for the sea-store for one +paltry vessel, which constituted the entire line-of-battle of the +Californian navy.</p> + +<p>The author justly observes, that this wicked abuse of the soil and +consequent poverty of the people results wholly from "the objects of the +colonisation." Thus the emigrants from England to the northern colonies +looked to subsistence from the fruits of labour; ploughed, harrowed, and +grew rich, and civilized. On the other hand the colonists of "New +France" a name which comprehended the valleys of the St Lawrence and +Mississippi, dwindled and pined away, partly because the golden dreams +of the free trade carried them away from stationary pursuits, and partly +because the government considered them rather as soldiers than settlers. +In like manner Spanish America, with its <i>Serras</i> of silver, holding out +to every adventurer the hope of earning his bread without the sweat of +his brow, became the paradise of idlers.</p> + +<p>In California the herds of cattle, and the sale of their hides and +tallow, offer so easy a subsistence, that the population think of no +other, and in consequence are poor, degenerate, and dwindling. Their +whole education consists in bullock hunting. In this view, unjust and +violent as may be the aggressions of the American arms, it is difficult +to regret the transfer of the territory into any hands which will bring +these fine countries into the general use of mankind, root out a race +incapable of improvement, and fill the hills and valleys of this mighty +province with corn and man.</p> + +<p>At present the produce of a bullock in hide, tallow, and horns, is about +five dollars, (the beef goes for nothing) of which the farmer's revenue +is averaged at a dollar and a half. This often makes up a large income. +General Vallego, who had about eight thousand head of cattle, must +receive from this source about ten thousand dollars a-year. The former +Missions, or Monkish revenues, must have been very large; that of San +Jose possessing thirty thousand head of cattle, Santa Clara nearly half +the number, and San Gabriel more than both together.</p> + +<p>It must be acknowledged that the monks had made a handsome affair of +holiness in the good old times. Previously to the Mexican revolution +their "missions" amounted, in the upper province alone, to twenty-one, +every one of course with its endowment on a showy scale. Every monk had +an annual stipend of four hundred dollars. But this was mere +pocket-money; they had "donations and bequests" from the living and from +the dead, a most capacious source of opulence, and of an opulence +continually growing, constituting what was termed the pious fund of +California. Besides all these things, they had the cheap labour of +eighteen thousand converts. But the drones were to be suddenly smoked +out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_664" id="Page_664">[Pg 664]</a></span> of their hives. Mexico declared itself a republic; and, as the +first act of a republic, in every part of the world, is to plunder every +body, the property of the monks went in the natural way. The lands and +beeves, the "donations and bequests were made a national property," in +1825. Still some show of moderation was exhibited, and the names and +some of the offices of the missions were preserved. But, in 1836, the +Californians took the whole affair into their own hands, threw off the +Central Government, and were "free, independent," and beggared. The +Missions were then "secularized" at their ease. The Mexican government +was furious for a while, and threatened the Californians with all the +thunders of its rage; but the vengeance ended in the simple condition, +that California should still acknowledge the Mexican supremacy, taking +her own way in all that had been done, was doing, and was to be done.</p> + +<p>The travellers had now an opportunity of seeing the interior of a +Californian mansion, the house of the chief proprietor in this quarter, +General Vallego.</p> + +<p>We must acknowledge that Sir George Simpson would have much improved his +volumes by striking out the whole of this description. It is evident +that he was received with civilities of every kind;—he was provided +with horses and attendants;—he was taken to see all the remarkable +features of the estate and the habits of its people; he was <i>fêted</i>, +introduced to wife and daughters, sons-in-law and daughters-in-law, sung +and danced for, and smiled on and talked with, as if he had been a +prince; and yet his whole account of this hospitality throws it into the +most repulsive light imaginable;—cold dinners, bad attendance, rude +furniture, and so forth, form the staple of his conceptions; and if his +book should ever reach General Vallego's hands, which it probably will, +through the zeal of American republication, we can easily imagine that +he will become cautious in his hospitality for the time to come. We, at +least, shall not extend the vexation of this Spanish gentleman by +quoting any part of this unfortunate <i>bevue</i>. We say this with regret. +But this style of repaying generous hospitality cannot be too distinctly +reproved, for the sake of all future travellers who may want, not merely +hospitality, but protection.</p> + +<p>The next subject of description is Monterey, which has lately assumed a +peculiar interest, as one of the objects of the American invasion. The +Bay of Monterey forms a segment of a circle with a chord of about +eighteen miles. Monterey had always been the seat of government, though +it consisted of but a few buildings. But, since the revolution of 1836, +it has expanded into a population of about seven hundred souls. The town +occupies a plain, bounded by a lofty ridge. The dwellings are the +reverse of pompous, being all built of mud bricks. The houses are +remarkable for a paucity of windows, glass being inordinately dear; even +parchment almost unattainable, and the artists in window-making charging +three dollars a-day!</p> + +<p>But, to the Californians, perhaps this privation of light is not an +evil. While it makes the rooms cooler, it cannot, by any possibility, +interfere with the occupations of those who do nothing. The bed affords +a curious contrast to the rest of the furniture. While the apartments +exhibit a deal-table, badly made chairs, probably a Dutch clock, and an +old looking-glass, the bed "challenges admiration by snowy white sheets, +fringed with lace, a pile of soft pillows, covered with the finest linen +or the richest satin, and a well-arranged drapery of costly and tasteful +curtains." Still this bed is "but a whited sepulchre," with a wool +mattress—"the impenetrable stronghold of millions of——." We leave the +rest to the imagination.</p> + +<p>The history of "Political Causes and Effects" would make a curious +volume; and it would admirably display, at once the profound agency of +Providence, and the shortsightedness of human policy. It would scarcely +be supposed that the devastation of Europe, and the sack of Berlin, +Vienna, and Moscow, found their origin in a Spanish treaty, on the banks +of the Mississippi, half a century before.</p> + +<p>The power of France in the interior of America, which had extended from +Canada to Louisiana, and which formed a line of posts for its boundary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_665" id="Page_665">[Pg 665]</a></span> +along this immense internal <i>frontier</i>, kept the British Colonies in a +state of constant alarm; and, by consequence, in a state of continual +dependence on England. But the English possession of Canada, in 1763, +and the cession of Louisiana to Spain at the same period, as they +lessened the alarms, loosened the allegiance of the British colonies. +The next steps were more obvious. The war of the United States, in which +France was an auxiliary, inflamed the French population with the hope of +breaking down the strength of England and the aristocracy of France. But +the expense of equipping the French allied force fell heavy on an +exchequer already burthened by the showy extravagance of the Regent +Orleans, and by the gross profligacies of Louis XV. To relieve the +exchequer, the States General were summoned; and from that <i>moment</i> +began the Revolution. The European war was the result of a republican +government, and the conquest of the Continent the result of placing +Napoleon on the throne of the empire. What further results may be still +preparing are beyond our knowledge; but it can scarcely be conceived +that the chain is yet finally broken.</p> + +<p>But before we take leave of California, we must do it the justice to +speak of San Barbara, which, as the author <i>rather</i> emphatically +expresses it, is to Monterey "what the parlour is to the kitchen."</p> + +<p>The bay is an unfavourable one, being exposed to the "worst winds of the +worst season." But the town having been selected as the favourite +retreat of the more respectable functionaries of the province, Santa +Barbara exhibits the charms of aristocratic manners. The houses, +externally, are superior to any others on the coast, and, internally, +exhibit taste in their furniture and ornament. The ladies excite the +author's pen into absolute rapture; their sparkling eyes and glossy +hair, are, in themselves, sufficient to negative the idea of tameness or +insipidity, while their sylph-like figures exhibit fresh graces at every +step. This is supported by the more important qualities, of "being by +far the more industrious half of the community, and performing their +household duties with cheerfulness and pride."</p> + +<p>The men are a handsome race, and the greatest dandies imaginable, +completely modelled on the Andalusian Majo, and displaying the finest +linen, the most embroidered pantaloons, and the most glittering jackets +in the western world. Of course, it cannot be expected of any Spaniards +that they should do much, and beaux so fine cannot be expected to do any +thing. Accordingly, his day is spent in riding from house to house, on a +horse as fine as himself, a living machine of trappings, and the nights +in dancing, billiard-playing, and flirting.</p> + +<p>In all countries where serious things are habitually turned into +trifles, trifles become serious things. "The balls, in fact, seem more +like a matter of business than any thing else that is done in +California. For whole days beforehand, sweetmeats are laboriously +prepared in the greatest variety, and from beginning to end of the +festivities, which have been known to last several successive nights, so +as to make the performers, after wearing out their pumps, trip it in +sea-boots, both men and women displaying as much gravity as if attending +the funeral of their friends."</p> + +<p>A still more humanising portion of their tastes is their passion for +music. The guitar is heard in every house. Father, mother, and child are +all playing and singing; and, to the praise of their taste be it spoken, +playing nothing but the fandangoes, seguidillas, and ballads of Spain; +the truest, purest, and most touching of all music; well worth all the +<i>hammered</i> harmonies of the German school, and all the long-winded and +laborious bravuras of the Italian. The Spanish music is the most +refined, and yet the most natural, in the world.</p> + +<p>We are glad to see this experienced judge of men and things speaking of +the Californians as "a happy people possessing the means of physical +pleasure to the full," even though he qualifies the opinion by their +"knowing no higher kind of enjoyment."</p> + +<p>It is true, that the Englishman, who knows what <i>intellectual</i> enjoyment +is, will not abandon that highest, though most toilsome, of all +gratifications, for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_666" id="Page_666">[Pg 666]</a></span> inferior indulgences; but it would be a fortunate +hour for the Englishman when he could get rid of some portion of the +toil that wears away his life, in exchange for the lighthearted +pleasures and simple occupations of foreign existence. Nor is there any +man who less prefers the dogged round of his cheerless exertions, or who +is more genuinely susceptible of essential enjoyment. We even think that +the cultivated Englishman has a finer relish for enjoyment than the man +of any other country. The caperings of the Frenchman, or the grimaces of +the Italian, have but little connexion with the mind. All foreigners +seem wretched when they have no physical excitement. There is not a more +miserable object on earth, than a Frenchman wandering through the +streets of London on a Sunday, when he can neither see the print shops +in the day, nor go to the play at night. The German is heart-broken for +the same reason, and shrouds himself and his sorrow in double clouds of +smoke. The Italian would worship Diana of Ephesus, or the Great African +Snake, if its pageantry, or puppet-show, would enable him to get through +the day of closed shops and <i>no</i> opera! Yet, contemptible as this +restless hunting after nothings is, it would be fortunate for us if we +could qualify the severity and constancy of our national toil by some +mixture of the lighter pursuits of the Continent.</p> + +<p>The fertility of California is boundless; it produces every thing that +human appetite can desire. In the Mission-garden of San Gabriel were +produced grapes, oranges, lemons, olives, figs, bananas, plums, peaches, +apples, pears, pomegranates, raspberries, strawberries, &c. &c., while +in the adjoining Mission were found in addition, tobacco, the plantain, +the cocoa-nut, the indigo plant, and the sugar cane.</p> + +<p>But Nature is nothing, in this country, without a miracle; and the +history of every village probably furnishes its legend. The Missions, +however, may be presumed to be the peculiar favourites of Heaven.</p> + +<p>"When Padre Pedro Cambon, and Padre Somera, were selecting a site for +the Mission, escorted by ten soldiers, a multitude of Indians, armed, +presented themselves, and setting up horrid yells, seemed determined to +oppose its establishment. The fathers, fearing that war would ensue, +took out a piece of cloth with the image of our Lady upon it, and held +it up in view of the barbarians. This was no sooner done, than the whole +were quiet, being subdued by the sight of this most precious image; and +throwing on the ground their bows and arrows, their two captains came +running to lay the beads, which they had round their necks, at the feet +of the Sovereign Queen, in proof of their tender regard." We recommend +the trial of this holy Cloth on General Taylor.</p> + +<p>But there is no limit to the richness of this region. The valley of the +Zulares, in the neighbourhood, would support millions of people. Its +lakes and rivers all abound in fish, its forests have all kinds of +trees, some of them growing to a size which, but for the force of +testimony, would be incredible. One of these is stated by Humboldt as of +one hundred and eighteen feet in girth. "But this is a walking-stick +compared with another at Bodega, as described to Sir George by Governor +Etholine, of Sitka." It is thirty-six Russian fathoms (seven feet each) +in span, and seventy-five in height; so that, if tapered into a perfect +cone, it would contain nearly twenty-two thousand tons of bark and +timber. In addition, the valley contains immense herds of wild horses, +in troops of several thousands each. What a country will this be, when +it shall fall into the hands of an intelligent people!</p> + +<p>The last of the five posts, San Diego, is, next to San Francisco, the +best harbour in the province. Thus, Upper California contains, at its +opposite extremities, two of the best harbours on the Pacific Ocean; +each of them being enhanced in value by the distance of any others +worthy of the name, San Francisco being nearly one thousand miles from +Port Discovery in the north, and San Diego six hundred miles from the +Bay of Magdalena in the south.</p> + +<p>That in the hands of any vigorous possessors this country would form a +most powerful kingdom, is beyond all question; and Sir George Simpson +evidently thinks that it might easily<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_667" id="Page_667">[Pg 667]</a></span> be acquired, and with a +legitimate claim too, by England. But the still higher question is the +policy of a perpetual increase of territory. England already has in +America a larger extent of territory than she can people for five +hundred years to come. But the possession of California, and perhaps of +the whole extent of the Mexican provinces, is on the eve of decision; +the American invasion has found no resistance that can deserve the name. +The Mexicans fly in every quarter, and a few discharges of cannon put +them to flight by thousands. At this moment the whole Mexican Republic, +equal in size to half a dozen European States, appears to be crumbling +into fragments. The rambling expeditions of the Americans are ravaging +it in all directions with impunity, and armies which might have been +long since annihilated by a mere guerilla war, have been suffered to +march from city to city, with scarcely more resistance than a +cattle-stealing skirmish. By the last intelligence, San Juan d' Ulloa +has fallen, and Vera Cruz has capitulated after a siege of only three +days and a half. The castle is the strongest fortification in the +Western World—and, as Napoleon said of Malta, "It is lucky that it had +somebody inside to open the gates for us:" the garrison of this fortress +seems to have been placed there merely for the purpose of surrendering +it. But, whatever may be the fate of men who had such a fortress to +defend, and yet whose defence actually cost the assailants but +<i>seventeen</i> killed! there can be but one feeling of commiseration for +the unhappy inhabitants of Vera Cruz, on whom was rained, day and night, +a shower of shot and shell amounting to more than seven thousand of +those tremendous missiles. It is computed that the slaughter, and that +slaughter chiefly of women and children, amounts to thousands. These are +terrible things, even where they may be supposed the <i>necessities</i> of +war. But here we can discover no necessity—Vera Cruz was <i>no</i> +fortification, it was nearly an open town. We recollect no similar +instance of a bombardment. In Europe, it has long been a rule of +military morals, that no open city shall ever be bombarded. We believe +it to be the boast of the first living soldier in the world—and we +could have no more honourable one—that he never suffered a city to be +bombarded; from the obvious fact, that the chief victims were the +helpless inhabitants, while the soldiery are sheltered by the casemates +and bomb-proofs.</p> + +<p>At all events, we must regard the contest as decided. The Government has +exhibited nothing more than a sullen resolution; and the people little +more than the apathy of their own cattle; the troops have exhibited no +evidence of discipline, and the only resource of the Finance has been in +the wild projects of an empty Exchequer. Whether the United States will +be the more prosperous for this conquest, is a question of time alone. +Whether the facility of the conquest may not make the multitude frantic +for general aggression,—whether the military men of the States may not +obtain a popularity and assume a power which has been hitherto confined +to civil life,—whether the attractions of military career may not turn +the rising generation from the pursuits of trade and tillage, to the +idle, or the ferocious life of the American campaigner,—and whether the +pressure of public debt, the necessity for maintaining their half-savage +conquests by an army, and the passion for territorial aggrandisement, +may not urge them to a colonial war with England,—are only parts of the +great problem which the next five-and-twenty years will compel the +American Republic to solve.</p> + +<p>At the same time, we cannot avoid looking upon the invasion of Mexico as +a portion of that extraordinary and mysterious agency which is now +shaking all the great stagnant districts of the world; which has already +awaked Turkey in Europe and in Asia Minor; which has brought Egypt into +civilised action; which has broken down the barbarism of the Algerines, +and planted the French standard in place of the furies and profligacies +of African Mahometanism. Deeply deprecating the guilt of those +aggressions, and condemning the crimes by which they have been +sustained, we cannot but regard changes so unexpected,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_668" id="Page_668">[Pg 668]</a></span> so powerful, and +so simultaneous, as the operation of a higher power than man's, with +objects altogether superior to the shortsightedness of man, and amply +bearing the character of working good out of evil, which belongs to the +history of Divine Providence in all the ages of the world.</p> + +<p>There is one peculiarity in these volumes which we cannot sufficiently +applaud, and that is, the thoroughly English spirit in which they are +written. Without weak partiality, for the reasons are every where +assigned; without narrow prejudice, for the facts are in all instances +stated; and without derogating from the merits of other nations, the +work is calculated to give a just conception of the value of England to +the world.</p> + +<p>On his return from the Sandwich Isles—an interesting portion of his +travels, to which we have not now time to advert in detail—and +preparing to start from the Russian post of New Archangel by a five +months' journey through the Russian empire, he gives a glance at what he +has done.</p> + +<p>"I have," says he, "threaded my way round nearly half the globe, +traversing about 220 degrees of longitude, and upwards of 100 of +latitude, barely one fourth of this by the ocean. Notwithstanding all +this, I have uniformly felt more at home, with the exception of my first +sojourn at Sitka, than I should have felt in Calais. I have every where +seen our race, under a great variety of circumstances, either actually +or virtually invested with the attributes of sovereignty."</p> + +<p>After a few words on the vigour of the English blood, as exhibited in +the commerce, intelligence, and activity of the United States, he +returns to the immediate possessions and prowess of England. "I have +seen the English posts which stud the wilderness from the Canadian lakes +to the Pacific Ocean. I have seen English adventurers with that innate +power which makes every individual, whether Briton or American, a real +representative of his country, monopolising the trade, and influencing +the destinies of California. And lastly, I have seen the English +merchants of a barbarian Archipelago, which promises, under their +guidance, to become the centre of the traffic of the east and the west, +of the new world and the old. In saying all this, I have seen less than +half the grandeur of the English race. How insignificant in comparison +are all the other nations of the earth, one nation alone excepted. +Russia and Great Britain literally gird the globe where either continent +has the greatest breadth, a fact which, taken in connexion with their +early annals, can scarcely fail to be regarded as the work of a special +Providence. After the fall of the Roman empire, a scanty and obscure +people suddenly burst on the west and east, as the dominant race of the +times; one swarm of the Normans making its way to England, while another +was establishing its supremacy over the Sclavonians of the Borysthenes, +the two being to meet in opposite directions at the end of a thousand +years."</p> + +<p>He regards the gigantic power of Russia as in an unconscious +co-partnership with England in the grand cause of commerce and +civilisation. He also makes the curious and true remark that, +notwithstanding the astonishing successes of the Normans in Europe, they +were never numerous enough to establish their language in any of the +conquered countries. Their unparalleled successes, therefore, seem to +express the idea that those feeble bands of warriors were strengthened +every where to accomplish the purposes of Providence.</p> + +<p>We now come to the overland journey to Siberia. On the 23d of July, they +reached the port of Ochotsk, where, however, they were met by masses of +floating ice. Here Sir George had the first intelligence from England, +which brought to his English heart the glad tidings of the birth of a +Prince of Wales. They found this settlement a collection of huts on a +shingly beach. The population is about 800 souls. A more dreary scene +can scarcely be conceived than the surrounding country. Not a tree, and +even scarcely a green blade is to be seen within miles of the town. The +climate is on a par with the soil. The summer consists of three months +of damp and chilly weather, during great part of which the snow still +covers the hills, and the ice<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_669" id="Page_669">[Pg 669]</a></span> chokes the harbour, and this is succeeded +by nine months of dreary winter. But when men find fault with such a +climate as this, the fact is, that the fault is their own. Those +climates were never intended for the residence of man; they were +intended for the white bear, the seal, the whale, and the fur-bearing +animals. To those inhabitants, they are perfectly adapted. If the rage +of conquest, or the eagerness for gain, fixes human beings in the very +empire of winter, they are intruders, and must suffer for their +unsuitable choice of a locale.</p> + +<p>The principal food of the inhabitants is fish. On fish they feed +themselves; their dogs—which are equivalent to their carriage +horses—their cattle, and their poultry, are also chiefly fed on fish. +All other provisions are ruinously dear. Flour costs twenty-eight rubles +the pood,—(a ruble is worth about a franc, the pood is thirty-six +English pounds.) Beef is so dear as to be regarded as a treat, and wines +and groceries have to pay a land carriage of seven thousand miles.</p> + +<p>Here, too, the people drink tea in the style in which it was introduced +in more primitive days into Europe. It is of the kind known as brick +tea, being made up in cakes, and is consumed in great quantities by the +lower orders in Siberia, being made into a thick soup, with the addition +of butter and salt.</p> + +<p>On the 27th of the month, they began their journey across Siberia. After +leaving the shore, and boating the river Ochota, to an encampment where +they were to meet their horses, hired at the rate of forty-five rubles a +horse, on an agreement to be conveyed to Yakutsh in eighteen days, they +struck into the country, which exhibited forests of pine, their progress +being about four or five miles an hour. The Yakuti appear to be very +industrious; young and old, male and female, being always occupied in +some useful employment. When not engaged in travelling or farming, men +and boys make saddles, harness, &c.; while the women and girls keep +house, dress skins, prepare clothing, and attend to the dairy. They are +also remarkably kind to strangers, for milk and cream, the best things +they had to give, were freely offered in every village. This was the +10th of July, yet the snow was still partially lying on the ground. From +day to day they met caravans of horses; and one day they were startled +by the shouts of a party at the head of them. Their next sight was a +herd of cattle running wildly in all directions, and the cause was seen +in a huge she-bear and her cub moving off at a round trot. On this +route, the bears are both fierce and numerous. The country had now +become more fertile; there was no want of flowering plants, and the +forests were enlivened by the warbling of birds, which, contrasted as it +was with the deathlike silence of the American woods, was peculiarly +grateful to the ear. In the course of the day, the vexatious incident +occurred of meeting the courier, with the letters from England, which +had been looked for so anxiously on the arrival of the travellers in +Siberia; but the bags of course could not be opened on the road.</p> + +<p>The presence of the Cossack, who attended the party, was of great +importance in quickening the movements of the natives; but they seemed +kind and good-natured, full of civility to the strangers, and not +without some degree of education. The Yakuti have a singular mode of +estimating distances. In Germany, a common measure of distance is the +time that it takes to smoke a pipe. In this part of Siberia, they take +as their unit the time necessary for boiling a kettle of a particular +sort of food. They tell you, that such and such a place is so many +kettles off, or half a kettle, or, as the case may be, only part of a +kettle.</p> + +<p>At last they arrive at the Lena. This is described as one of the +grandest rivers in the world. At a distance of thirteen hundred versts +from the sea, (three versts are equal to two miles,) it is from five to +six miles wide. Its entire length is not less than four thousand versts. +The word Lena implies lazy—a name justified by the circuitous flowing +of its stream. At Yakutsk, the seat of the Governor, they were received +with great civility in this capital of the province, latitude sixty-two +north, and longitude one hundred and thirty east. The extreme +temperature of summer and winter is almost beyond belief, the +thermometer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_670" id="Page_670">[Pg 670]</a></span> having, risen in the shade to 106° of Fahrenheit, and in +winter having fallen to 83° below zero—making a difference of 189°. In +this district are the enormous deposits of mammoth bones. Spring after +spring, the alluvial banks of the lakes and rivers crumbling under the +thaw have given up their dead; and the islands opposite to the mouth of +the Yana, and, as there was reason for believing, even the bed of the +ocean itself, teems with those mysterious memorials of antiquity. The +question is, how do those bones come there? Sir George, after giving the +opinions of some of the professors of geology, conceives the most +natural account of the phenomenon to be, that those animals or their +bones were swept from the great Tartarian pasturages of Cobi, by the +waters of the Deluge, towards the ocean. We must acknowledge that this +has long been our own opinion. It must be remembered that the Scriptural +account states the rising of the Deluge to have been gradual. The rain +fell forty days and nights. All living things would of course make their +way to the heights to escape the rising inundation of the valleys. The +cattle thus grouped together in immense herds, (the buffalos in the +prairies at the present day sometimes exceed five thousand in one +pasturage,) thus gathered into one mass, would be finally submerged, and +swept away in whatever irresistible current rushed over the spot on +which they stood. The frost of the region, which penetrates the earth to +the depth apparently of some hundred feet, would thenceforth preserve +them from decay. The tusks form an article of considerable trade, the +ivory selling from a shilling to one and ninepence a pound, according to +the perfection of the tusks.</p> + +<p>One of the travellers' especial wishes was, to have visited the town of +Kiachta, the place of commerce between the Russians and the Chinese. But +a note from the Governor mentioned that the Chinese had suddenly stopped +all communication. But a few words may be given to a commerce so +peculiar. By the treaty of Nertshinsk, a reciprocal liberty of traffic +was stipulated; and accordingly caravans on the part of the Russian +government, and individual traders, used to visit Pekin. But the +Muscovites exhibited so much of the native habits in "drinking and +roystering," that, after exhausting the patience of the Celestials +during three-and-thirty years, they were wholly excluded. But a +cessation of five years having taken place, the Russians in 1728 +obtained a treaty, by which individuals were permitted to trade on the +frontier; and Kiachta was built. But public caravans were permitted to +go on to Pekin. At length, in 1762, Catherine fixed the grand emporium +at Kiachta.</p> + +<p>This town, standing on a beach of the same name, is within about half a +furlong of the Chinese village of Maimatschin, (about the fiftieth +parallel of latitude,) being one thousand miles from Pekin, and four +thousand from Moscow. Such are the enormous distances through which the +eagerness for money-making drives the children of men.</p> + +<p>The materials of the Russian traffic are furs, woollens, cottons, linen, +&c., with articles in tin, copper, iron, &c.—the whole amounting to +about nineteen millions of rubles. The Chinese products are tea, silks, +sugar-candy, &c.—nominally to the amount of seven millions of rubles, +but probably rising to thrice the value. The chief time of the market is +the winter. To the chief Russian merchants this is a species of +monopoly, and a most thriving one, some of them being <i>millionnaires</i>, +and living in the most sumptuous manner, the "merchant princes" of the +wilderness!</p> + +<p>We had some curiosity to know the condition of the exiles to Siberia +from this intelligent eye-witness. But he gives little more than a +glance to a subject on which the public mind of England is at present so +much engaged. In Russia corporal punishment is much in use; but +criminals are seldom put to death. They are marched off to Siberia for +every kind of offence, from the highest political crime to petty +larceny. The most heinous offenders are sent to the mines; those guilty +of minor delinquencies are settled in villages, or on farms; and +those guilty of having opinions different from those of the +government—statesmen, authors, and soldiers—are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_671" id="Page_671">[Pg 671]</a></span> generally suffered to +establish themselves in little knots, where they spread refinement +through the country. The consequence is, that "all grades of society are +decidedly more intelligent than the corresponding grades in any other +part of the empire, and perhaps more so than in most parts of Europe."</p> + +<p>Many of the exiles are now men of large income.—"The dwelling in which +we breakfasted to-day," says the traveller, "was that of a person who +had been sent to Siberia <i>against his will</i>. Finding that there was but +one way of bettering his condition, he worked hard, and behaved well. He +had now a comfortably furnished house and a well-cultivated farm, while +a stout wife, and plenty of servants, bustled about the premises. His +son had just arrived from St Petersburg, to visit his exiled father, and +had the pleasure of seeing him amid all the comforts of life, reaping an +abundant harvest, and with <i>one hundred and forty persons</i> in his pay!"</p> + +<p>He adds, "In fact, for the <i>reforming</i> of the criminal, in addition to +the punishment of the crime, Siberia is undoubtedly the best +<i>penitentiary</i> in the world. When not bad enough for the mines, each +exile is provided with an allotment of ground, a house, a horse, two +cows, agricultural implements, and, for the first year, with provisions. +For three years he pays no taxes whatever, and for the next ten, only +half the full amount. To bring fear as well as hope to operate in his +favour, he clearly understands, that his very first slip will send him +from his home and family, to toil in the mines. Thus does the government +bestow an almost paternal care on the less atrocious criminals."</p> + +<p>Yet with this knowledge before the British Government,—for we must +presume that they had not overlooked the condition of the Russian +exiles; and with the still more impressive knowledge of the growth of +our Australian colonies, and the improvement of the convicts; the +new-fangled and most costly plan is now to be adopted of reforming our +criminals by keeping them at home! Thus we are to save the national +expenditure by building huge penitentiaries, which will cost millions of +money, and to secure society from depredation, by annually pouring out +from those prisons, as the time of their sentences expires, the whole +crowd of villany to live on villany once more;—making the very streets +a place of danger, and filling the country with hungry crime.</p> + +<p>The only argument on the opposite side is, that the free settlers are +offended by finding themselves in a population of convicts. But to this +the obvious answer is, that the colonisation of Australia was originally +intended as a school of reform—that the convicts have been to a great +extent reformed, which they never would have been at home—that the +convicts were in the colony first, and that the settlers going there, +with their eyes open, have no reason to complain.</p> + +<p>We then have a Notice on another subject, which is at present engrossing +the speculations of all Europe, namely, the gold-country on the +Yenissei. Krasnoyayk, the capital, stands in a plain in the centre of +the district, where the mania of gold-washing broke out about fifteen +years ago. Some individuals have been singularly lucky in their search. +One person, after having laboured in vain for three years, and expending +a million and a half of rubles, suddenly, in this very year, had hit +upon a depot which gave him a hundred and fifty poods of gold—worth +thirty-five thousand rubles each, or five millions and a half of rubles. +Gold here measures every thing: a lady's charms are by weight, "a pood +is a good girl, and two or three poods are twice or thrice as good as a +wife." <i>This</i> province alone has, in this year, yielded five hundred +poods of gold.</p> + +<p>Ekaterineburg is the centre of the mining district of the Uralian +mountains. The population amounts to about fourteen thousand, who are +all connected with the mines. The town has an iron foundery, a mint for +copper and silver coin, and various establishments for cutting marble, +porphyry, and polishing precious stones. The neighbouring mountains +appear to be nature's richest repository of minerals, yielding, in great +abundance, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, &c.; gold, silver, iron, and +platina. These inexhaustible treasures chiefly belong to Count Demidoff +and M. Yakovleff.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_672" id="Page_672">[Pg 672]</a></span> The Count is said to receive half a million sterling +a-year from this princely property.</p> + +<p>Hurrying now towards England, with the anxiety which every one feels to +reach home as the end of a long journey seems to be nigh, the traveller +passed through Kazan, second in national honour to Moscow, but found it +in ashes from a late fire. He then hurried on to Nishney-Novgorod, the +place of the greatest fair in the world, where the traffic brings +traders from the ends of the earth, and where the trade amounts to +nineteen millions sterling a-year. He then traversed the property of +General Sheremetieff, an estate of <i>two days' journey</i>, with a hundred +thousand serfs—a comfortable race when under a good master, each head +of a family having a farm, and paying its rent, part in produce and part +in work. The people appear to be a gay race—singing every where; +singing on the roads, singing at work, and singing at cutting up their +cabbages for the national luxury of <i>saurkraut</i>.</p> + +<p>At length was seen looming in the west, with all its steeples and domes, +the queen of the wilderness, Moscow the Magnificent—the most +frequently-burned of all cities, and, as Sir George observes, the most +<i>retaliatory</i> on the burners—it having been burned to embers <i>four</i> +times, and each time having seen the incendiary nation ruined. It must +be admitted, however, that the revenge, however sure, was slow, for it +seldom occurred in less than a couple of centuries!—Napoleon's fate +being the only instance of promptitude on this point.</p> + +<p>From Moscow to St Petersburg, a macadamised road of seven hundred versts +conveyed the traveller to the northern city of the Czar, where, on the +8th of October, he terminated a journey from Ochotsk, of about seven +thousand miles. In eight days from St Petersburg he reached Hamburg, and +in five days more arrived in London, having rounded the globe in a +period of nineteen months and twenty-six days!</p> + +<p>We have given an abstract of this work with the more satisfaction, that +it not merely supplies a certain knowledge of vast regions of which the +European world knows little; but that it gives a favourable view of the +condition, the habits, and the temper, of the multitudes of our fellow +men, spread over those immense spaces of the globe. Personally, of +course, a man of the official rank and individual intelligence of the +writer, might expect the hospitality of the Russian employés. But he +seems to have been met with general kindness—to have experienced no +injury, no obstacle, and no extortion; and, on the whole, having +exhibited the good sense which disregards the <i>inevitable</i> annoyances of +all journeys in distant countries, to have escaped all the severer ones +which an ill-tempered traveller naturally brings upon himself. But the +feature of his volumes on which we place the still higher value, is the +honesty of his English spirit. He knows the value of his country; he +does justice to her principles; he gives the true view of her power; he +vindicates her intentions; and without depreciating the merits of +foreign nations, he pays a manly tribute to the truth, by doing deserved +honour to his own.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> <i>Narrative of an Overland Journey Round the World.</i> By Sir +George Simpson, Governor-in-Chief of the Hudson's Bay Company's +Territories in North America.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_673" id="Page_673">[Pg 673]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTERS_ON_THE_TRUTHS_CONTAINED_IN_POPULAR_SUPERSTITIONS" id="LETTERS_ON_THE_TRUTHS_CONTAINED_IN_POPULAR_SUPERSTITIONS"></a>LETTERS ON THE TRUTHS CONTAINED IN POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS.</h2> + + +<h3>VI.—RELIGIOUS DELUSIONS: THE POSSESSED: WITCHCRAFT.</h3> + +<p>Dear Archy,—The subjects about which I propose writing to you to-day +are, delusions of a religious nature;—the idea of being possessed,—the +grounds of the belief in witchcraft. With so much before me, I have no +room to waste. So, of the first, first.</p> + +<p>The powerful hold which the feeling of religion takes on our nature, at +once attests the truth of the sentiment, and warns us to be on our guard +against fanatical excesses. No subject can safely be permitted to have +exclusive possession of our thoughts, least of all the most absorbing +and exciting of any.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"So—it will make us mad."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>It is evident that, with the majority, Providence has designed that +worldly cares should largely and wholesomely employ the mind, and +prevent inordinate craving after an indulgence in spiritual stimulation; +while minds of the highest order are diverted, by the active duties of +philanthropy, from any perilous excess of religious contemplation.</p> + +<p>Under the influence of constant and concentrated religious thought, not +only is the reason liable to give way—which is not our theme—but, +alternatively, the nervous system is apt to fall into many a form of +trance, the phenomena of which are mistaken by the ignorant for Divine +visitation. The weakest frame sinks into an insensibility profound as +death, in which he has visions of heaven and the angels. Another lies, +in half-waking trance, rapt in celestial contemplation and beatitude; +others are suddenly fixed in cataleptic rigidity; others, again, are +dashed upon the ground in convulsions. The impressive effect of these +seizures is heightened by their supervention in the midst of religious +exercises, and by the contagious and sympathetic influence through which +their spread is accelerated among the more excitable temperaments and +weaker members of large congregations. What chance have ignorant people +witnessing such attacks, or being themselves the subjects of them, of +escaping the persuasion that they mark the immediate agency of the Holy +Spirit? Or, to take ordinarily informed and sober-minded people,—what +would they think at seeing mixed up with this hysteric disturbance, +distinct proofs of extraordinary perceptive and anticipatory powers, +such as occasionally manifest themselves as parts of trance, to the +rational explanation of which they might not have the key?</p> + +<p>In the preceding letter, I have already exemplified, by the case of +Henry Engelbrecht, the occurrence of visions of hell and heaven during +the deepest state of trance. No doubt the poor ascetic implicitly +believed his whole life the reality of the scenes to which his +imagination had transported him.</p> + +<p>In a letter from the Earl of Shrewsbury to Ambrose Mark Phillips, Esq., +published in 1841, a very interesting account is given of two young +women who had lain for months or years in a state of religious +beatitude. Their condition, when they were exhibited, appears to have +been that of half-waking in trance; or, perhaps, a shade nearer the +lightest form of trance-sleep. To increase the force of the scene, they +appear to have exhibited some degree of trance-perceptive power. But, +without this, the mere aspect of such persons is wonderfully imposing. +If the pure spirit of Christianity finds a bright comment and +illustration in the Madonnas and Cherubim of Raffaelle, it seems to +shine out in still more truthful vividness from the brow of a young +person rapt in religious ecstasy. The hands clasped in prayer,—the +upturned eyes,—the expression of humble confidence and seraphic hope, +(displayed, let me suggest, on a beautiful face,) constitute a picture +of which, having witnessed it, I can never forget the force. Yet I knew +it was only a trance. So one knows that village churches are built by +common mechanics. Yet when we look over an extensive country, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_674" id="Page_674">[Pg 674]</a></span> see +the spire from its clump of trees rising over each hamlet, or over the +distant city its minster tower,—the images find an approving harmony in +our feelings, and seem to aid in establishing the genuineness and the +truth of the sentiment and the faith which have reared such expressive +symbols.</p> + +<p>In the two cases mentioned in Lord Shrewsbury's pamphlet, it is, +however, painful to observe that trick and artifice had been used to +bend them to the service of Catholicism. The poor women bore on their +hands and feet wounds, the supposed <i>spontaneous</i> eruption of +delineations of the bleeding wounds of the crucifix, and, on the +forehead, the bloody marks of the crown of thorns. To convict the +imposture, the blood-stains from the wounds in the feet ran <i>upwards</i> +towards the toes, to complete a <i>facsimile</i> of the original, though the +poor girls were lying on their backs. The wounds, it is to be hoped, are +inflicted and kept fresh and active by means employed when the victims +are in the insensibility to pain, which commonly goes with trance.</p> + +<p>To comprehend the effects of religious excitement operating on masses, +we may inspect three pictures,—the revivals of modern times—the +fanatical delusions of the Cevennes—the behaviour of the +Convulsionnaires at the grave of the Abbé Paris.</p> + +<p>"I have seen," says M. Le Roi Sunderland, himself a preacher, [<i>Zion's +Watchman</i>, New York, Oct. 2, 1842,] "persons often 'lose their +strength,' as it is called, at camp-meetings, and other places of great +religious excitement; and not pious people alone, but those also who +were not professors of religion. In the spring of 1824, while performing +pastoral labour in Dennis, Massachusetts, I saw more than twenty people +affected in this way. Two young men, of the name of Crowell, came one +day to a prayer meeting. They were quite indifferent. I conversed with +them freely, but they showed no signs of penitence. From the meeting +they went to their shop, (they were shoemakers,) to finish some work +before going to the meeting in the evening. On seating themselves they +were both struck perfectly stiff. I was immediately sent for, and found +them sitting paralysed [he means cataleptic] on their benches, with +their work in their hands, unable to get up, or to move at all. I have +seen scores of persons affected the same way. I have seen persons lie in +this state forty-eight hours. At such times they are unable to converse, +and are sometimes unconscious of what is passing round them. At the same +time they say they are in a happy state of mind."</p> + +<p>These persons, it is evident, were thrown in to one of the forms of +trance through their minds being powerfully worked upon; with which +cause the influence of mutual sympathy with what they saw around them, +and perhaps some physical agency, co-operated.</p> + +<p>The following extract from the same journal portrays another kind of +nervous seizure, allied to the former, and produced by the same cause, +as it was manifested at the great revival, some forty years ago, at +Kentucky and Tennessee.</p> + +<p>"The convulsions were commonly called 'the jerks.' A writer, (M'Neman,) +quoted by Mr Power, (Essay on the Influence of the Imagination over the +Nervous System,) gives this account of their course and progress:—</p> + +<p>"'At first appearance these meetings, exhibited nothing to the spectator +but a scene of confusion, that could scarcely be put into language. They +were generally opened with a sermon, near the close of which there would +be an unusual outcry, some bursting out into loud ejaculations of +prayer, &c.</p> + +<p>"'The rolling exercise consisted in being cast down in a violent manner, +doubled with the head and feet together, or stretched in a prostrate, +manner, turning swiftly over like a dog. Nothing in nature could better +represent the jerks, than for one to goad another alternately on every +side with a piece of red-hot iron. The exercise commonly began in the +head, which would fly backwards and forwards, and from side to side, +with a quick jolt, which the person would naturally labour to suppress, +but in vain. He must necessarily go on as he was stimulated, whether +with a violent dash on the ground, and bounce from place to place, like +a foot-ball; or hopping round with head,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_675" id="Page_675">[Pg 675]</a></span> limbs, and trunk, twitching +and jolting in every direction, as if they must inevitably fly asunder,' +&c."</p> + +<p>The following sketch is from <i>Dow's Journal</i>. "In the year 1805 he +preached at Knoxville, Tennessee, before the governor, when some hundred +and fifty persons, among whom were a number of Quakers, had the jerks."</p> + +<p>"I have seen all denominations of religions exercised by the jerks, +gentleman and lady, black and white, young and old, without exception. I +passed a meeting-house, where I observed the undergrowth had been cut +away for camp meetings, and from fifty to a hundred saplings were left, +breast high, on purpose for the people who were jerked to hold by. I +observed where they had held on, they had kicked up the earth, as a +horse stamping flies."</p> + +<p>Every one has heard of the extraordinary scenes which took place in the +Cevennes at the close of the seventeenth century.</p> + +<p>It was towards the end of the year 1688 a report was first heard, of a +gift of prophecy which had shown itself among the persecuted followers +of the Reformation, who, in the south of France, had betaken themselves +to the mountains. The first instance was said to have occurred in the +family of a glass-dealer, of the name of Du Serre, well known as the +most zealous Calvinist of the neighbourhood, which was a solitary spot +in Dauphiné, near Mount Peyra. In the enlarging circle of enthusiasts, +Gabriel Astier and Isabella Vincent made themselves first conspicuous. +Isabella, a girl of sixteen years of age, from Dauphiné, who was in the +service of a peasant, and tended sheep, began in her sleep to preach and +prophesy, and the Reformers came from far and near to hear her. An +advocate, of the name of Gerlan, describes the following scene which he +had witnessed. At his request she had admitted him, and a good many +others, after nightfall, to a meeting at a chateau in the neighbourhood. +She there disposed herself upon a bed, shut her eyes, and went to sleep; +in her sleep she chanted in a low tone the Commandments and a psalm; +after a short respite she began to preach in a louder voice, not in her +own dialect, but in good French, which hitherto she had not used. The +theme was an exhortation to obey God rather than man. Sometimes she +spoke so quickly as to be hardly intelligible. At certain of her pauses, +she stopped to collect herself. She accompanied her words with +gesticulations. Gerlan found her pulse quiet, her arm not rigid, but +relaxed, as natural. After an interval, her countenance put on a mocking +expression, and she began anew her exhortation, which was now mixed with +ironical reflections upon the Church of Rome. She then suddenly stopped, +continuing asleep. It was in vain they stirred her. When her arms were +lifted and let go, they dropped unconsciously. As several now went away, +whom her silence rendered impatient, she said in a low tone, but just as +if she was awake, "Why do you go away? Why do not you wait till I am +ready?" And then she delivered another ironical discourse against the +Catholic Church, which she closed with a prayer.</p> + +<p>When Boucha, the intendant of the district, heard of the performances of +Isabella Vincent, he had her brought before him. She replied to his +interrogatories, that people had often told her that she preached in her +sleep, but that she did not herself believe a word of it. As the +slightness of her person made her appear younger than she really was, +the intendant merely sent her to an hospital at Grenoble, where, +notwithstanding that she was visited by persons of the Reformed +persuasion, there was an end of her preaching,—she became a Catholic!</p> + +<p>Gabriel Astier, who had been a young labourer, likewise from Dauphiné, +went in the capacity of a preacher and prophet into the valley of +Bressac, in the Vivarais. He had infected his family: his father, +mother, elder brother, and sweetheart, followed his example, and took to +prophesying. Gabriel, before he preached, used to fall into a kind of +stupor in which he lay rigid. After delivering his sermon, he would +dismiss his auditors with a kiss, and the words: "My brother, or my +sister, I impart to you the Holy Ghost." Many believed that they had +thus received the Holy Ghost from Astier, being taken with the same +seizure. During the period of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_676" id="Page_676">[Pg 676]</a></span> discourse, first one, then another, +would fall down; some described themselves afterwards as having felt +first a weakness and trembling through the whole frame, and an impulse +to yawn and stretch their arms, then they fell convulsed and foaming at +the mouth. Others carried the contagion home with them, and first +experienced its effects, days, weeks, months afterwards. They +believed—nor is it wonderful they did so—that they had received the +Holy Ghost.</p> + +<p>Not less curious were the seizures of the Convulsionnaires at the grave +of the Abbé Paris, in the year 1727. These Jansenist visionaries used to +collect in the church-yard of St Médard, round the grave of the deposed +and deceased Deacon, and before long the reputation of the place for +working miracles getting about, they fell in troops into convulsions.</p> + +<p>Their state had more analogy to that of the Jerkers already described. +But it was different. They required, to gratify an internal impulse or +feeling, that the most violent blows should be inflicted upon them at +the pit of the stomach. Carré de Montgeron mentions, that being himself +an enthusiast in the matter, he had inflicted the blows required with an +iron instrument, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds, with a round +head. And as a convulsionary lady complained that he struck too lightly +to relieve the feeling of depression at her stomach, he gave her sixty +blows with all his force. It would not do, and she begged to have the +instrument used by a tall, strong man, who stood by in the crowd. The +spasmodic tension of her muscles must have been enormous; for she +received one hundred blows, delivered with such force that the wall +shook behind her. She thanked the man for his benevolent aid, and +contemptuously censured De Montgeron for his weakness, or want of faith +and timidity. It was, indeed, time for issuing the mandate, which, as +wit read it, ran:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"De par le roi—Defense à Dieu,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">De faire miracle en ce lieu."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Turn we now to another subject:—the possessed in the middle ages,—What +was their physiological condition? What was really meant then by being +possessed? I mean, what were the symptoms of the affection, and how are +they properly to be explained? The inquiry will throw further light upon +the true relations of other phenomena we have already looked at.</p> + +<p>We have seen that Schwedenborg thought that he was in constant +communication with the spiritual world; but felt convinced, and avowed, +that though he saw his visitants without and around him, they reached +him first inwardly, and communicated with his understanding; and thence +consciously, and outwardly, with his senses. But it would be a +misapplication of the term to say that he was possessed by these +spirits.</p> + +<p>We remember that Socrates had his demon; and it should be mentioned as a +prominent feature in visions generally, that their subject soon +identifies one particular imaginary being as his guide and informant, to +whom he applies for what knowledge he wishes. In the most exalted states +of trance-waking, the guide or demon is continually referred to with +profound respect by the entranced person. Now, was Socrates, and are +patients of the class I have alluded to, possessed? No! the meaning of +the term is evidently not yet hit.</p> + +<p>Then there are persons who permanently fancy themselves other beings +than they are, and act as such.</p> + +<p>In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, there prevailed in parts of +Europe a seizure, which was called the wolf-sickness. Those affected +with it held themselves to be wild beasts, and betook themselves to the +forests. One of these, who was brought before De Lancre, at Bordeaux, in +the beginning of the sixteenth century, was a young man of Besançon. He +avowed himself to be huntsman of the forest lord, his invisible master. +He believed, that through the power of his master, he had been +transformed into a wolf; that he hunted in the forest as such, and that +he was often accompanied by a bigger wolf, whom he suspected to be the +master he served—with more details of the same kind. The persons thus +affected were called Wehrwolves. They enjoyed in those days the +alternative of being exorcised or executed.</p> + +<p>Arnold relates in his history of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_677" id="Page_677">[Pg 677]</a></span> church and of heresy, how there was a +young man in Königsberg, well educated, the natural son of a priest, who +had the impression, that he was met near a crucifix in the wayside by +seven angels, who revealed to him that he was to represent God the +Father on earth, to drive all evil out of the world, &c. The poor +fellow, after pondering upon this impression a long time, issued a +circular commencing thus,—</p> + +<p>"We, John Albrecht, Adelgreif, Syrdos, Amata, Kanemata, Kilkis, +Mataldis, Schmalkilimundis, Sabrundis, Elioris, Overarch High-priest, +and Emperor, Prince of Peace of the whole world, Overarch King of the +Holy Kingdom of Heaven, Judge of the living and of the dead, God and +Father, in whose divinity Christ will come on the last day to judge the +world, Lord of all Lords, King of all Kings," &c.</p> + +<p>He was thereupon thrown into prison at Königsberg, regarded as a most +frightful heretic, and every means were used by the clergy to reclaim +him. To all their entreaties, however, he listened only with a smile of +pity, "that they should think of reclaiming God the Father." He was then +put to the torture; and as what he endured made no alteration in his +convictions, he was condemned to have his tongue torn out with red-hot +tongs, to be cut in four quarters, and then burned under the gallows. He +wept bitterly, not at his own fate, but that they should pronounce such +a sentence on the Deity. The executioner was touched with pity, and +entreated him to make a final recantation. But he persisted that he was +God the Father, whether they pulled his tongue out by the roots or not; +and so he was executed!</p> + +<p>The Wehrwolves, and this poor creature, in what state were they? they +were merely insane. Then we must look further.</p> + +<p>Gmelin, in the first volume of his Contributions to Anthropology, +narrates, that in the year 1789, a German lady, under his observation, +had daily paroxysms, in which she believed herself to be, and acted the +part of a French emigrant. She had been in distress of mind through the +absence of a person she was attached to, and he was somehow implicated +in the scenes of the French revolution. After an attack of fever and +delirium, the complaint regulated itself, and took the form of a daily +fit of trance-waking. When the time for the fit approached, she stopped +in her conversation, and ceased to answer when spoken to; she then +remained a few minutes sitting perfectly still, her eyes fixed on the +carpet before her. Then, in evident uneasiness, she began to move her +head backwards and forwards, to sigh, and to pass her fingers across her +eye-brows. This lasted a minute, then she raised her eyes, looked once +or twice around with timidity and embarrassment, then began to talk in +French; when she would describe all the particulars of her escape from +France, and, assuming the manner of a French woman, talk purer and +better accented French than she had been known to be capable of talking +before, correct her friends when they spoke incorrectly, but delicately +and with a comment on the German rudeness of laughing at the bad +pronunciation of strangers; and if led herself to speak or read German, +she used a French accent, and spoke it ill; and the like.</p> + +<p>Now, suppose this lady, instead of thus acting, when the paroxysms +supervened, had cast herself on the ground, had uttered bad language and +blasphemy, and had worn a sarcastic and malignant expression of +countenance,—in striking contrast with her ordinary character and +behaviour, and <i>alternating with it</i>,—and you have the picture and the +reality of a person "possessed."</p> + +<p>A person, "possessed," is one affected with the form of trance-waking +called double consciousness, with the addition of being deranged when in +the paroxysm, and then, out of the suggestions of her own fancy, or +catching at the interpretation put on her conduct by others, believing +herself tenanted by the fiend.</p> + +<p>We may quite allowably heighten the above picture by supposing that the +person in her trance, in addition to being mad, might have displayed +some of the perceptive powers occasionally developed in trance; and so +have evinced, in addition to her demoniacal ferocity, an "uncanny" +knowledge of things and persons. To<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_678" id="Page_678">[Pg 678]</a></span> be candid, Archy, time was, when I +should myself have had my doubts in such a case.</p> + +<p>We have by this time had intercourse enough with spirits and demons to +prepare us for the final subject of witchcraft.</p> + +<p>The superstition of witchcraft stretches back into remote antiquity, and +has many roots. In Europe it is partly of Druidical origin. The +Druidesses were part priestesses, part shrewd old ladies, who dealt in +magic and medicine. They were called <i>all-rune</i>, all-knowing. There was +some touch of classical superstition mingled in the stream which was +flowing down to us;—so an edict of a council of Trêves, in the year +1310, has this injunction: "Nulla mulierum se nocturnis horis equitare +cum Dianâ propitiatur; hæc enim dœmoniaca est illusio." But the main +source from which we derived this superstition, is the East, and +traditions and facts incorporated in our religion. There were only +wanted the ferment of thought of the fifteenth century, the vigour, +energy, ignorance, enthusiasm, and faith of those days, and the papal +denunciation of witchcraft by the famous Bull of Innocent the VIII. in +1459, to give fury to the delusion. And from this time for three +centuries, the flames, at which more than 100,000 victims perished, cast +a lurid light over Europe.</p> + +<p>One ceases to wonder at this ugly stain in the page of history, when one +considers all things fairly.</p> + +<p>The Enemy of mankind, bodily, with horns, hoofs, and tail, was believed +to lurk round every corner, bent upon your spiritual, if not bodily +harm. The witch and the sorcerer were not possessed by him against their +will, but went out of their way to solicit his alliance, and to offer to +forward his views for their own advantage, or to gratify their +malignity. The cruel punishments for a crime so monstrous were mild, +compared with the practice of our own penal code fifty or sixty years +ago against second-class offences. And for the startling bigotry of the +judges, which appears the most discreditable part of the matter, why, +how could they alone be free from the prejudices of their age? Yet they +did strange things.</p> + +<p>At Lindheim, Horst reports, on one occasion six women were implicated in +a charge of having disinterred the body of a child to make a +witch-broth. As they happened to be innocent of the deed, they underwent +the most cruel tortures before they would confess it. At length they saw +their cheapest bargain was to admit the crime, and be simply burned +alive and have it over. So they did so. But the husband of one of them +procured an official examination of the grave; when the child's body was +found in its coffin safe and sound. What said the Inquisitor? "This is +indeed a proper piece of devil's work; no, no, I am not to be taken in +by such a gross and obvious imposture. Luckily the women have already +confessed the crime, and burned they must and shall be in honour of the +Holy Trinity, which has commanded the extirpation of sorcerers and +witches." The six women were burned alive accordingly.</p> + +<p>It was hard upon them, because they were innocent. But the regular +witches, as times went, hardly deserved any better fate—considering, I +mean, their honest and straight-forward intentions of doing that which +they believed to be the most desperate wrong achievable. Many there were +who sought to be initiated in the black art. They were re-baptized with +the support of responsible witch sponsors, abjured Christ, and entered +to the best of their belief into a compact with the devil; and forthwith +commenced a course of bad works, poisoning and bewitching men and +cattle, and the like, or trying to do so.</p> + +<p>One feature transpired in these details, that is merely pathetic, not +horrifying or disgusting.</p> + +<p>The little children of course talked witchcraft, and you may fancy, +Archy, what charming gossip it must have made. Then the poor little +things were sadly wrought on by the tales they told. And they fell into +trances and had visions shaped by their heated fancies.</p> + +<p>A little maid, of twelve years of age, used to fall into fits of sleep, +and afterwards she told her parents, and <i>the judge</i>, how an old woman +and her daughter, riding on a broom-stick, had come and taken her out +with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_679" id="Page_679">[Pg 679]</a></span> them. The daughter sat foremost, the old woman behind, the little +maid between them. They went away through the roof of the house, over +the adjoining houses and the town gate, to a village some way off. There +they went down a chimney of a cottage into a room, where sat a tall +black man and twelve women. They eat and drank. The black man filled +their glasses from a can, and gave each of the women a handful of gold. +She herself had received none; but she had eaten and drank with them.</p> + +<p>A list of persons burned in Salzburg for participation in witchcraft +between the years 1627 and 1629 in an outbreak of this frenzy, which had +its origin in an epidemic among the cattle, enumerates children of 14, +12, 11, 10, 9, years of age; which in some degree reconciles one to the +fate of the fourteen canons, four gentlemen of the choir, two young men +of rank, a fat old lady of rank, the wife of a burgomaster, a +counsellor, the fattest burgess of Wartzburg, together with his wife, +the handsomest woman in the city, and a midwife of the name of +Schiekelte, with whom (according to an N.B. in the original report) the +whole mischief originated. To amateurs of executions in those days the +fatness of the victim was evidently a point of consideration, as is +shown by the specifications of that quality in some of the victims in +the above list. Were men devils <i>then</i>? By no means; there existed then +as now upon earth, worth, honour, truth, benevolence, gentleness. But +there were other ingredients, too, from which the times are not yet +purged. A century ago people did not know—do they now?—that vindictive +punishment is a crime; that the only allowable purpose of punishment is +to prevent the recurrence of the offence; and that restraint, isolation, +employment, instruction, are the extreme and only means towards that end +which reason and humanity justify. Alas, for human nature! Some +centuries hence, the first half of the nineteenth century will be +charged with having manifested no admission of principle in advance of a +period, the judicial crimes of which make the heart shudder. The old +lady witches had, of course, much livelier ideas than the innocent +children, on the subject of their intercourse with the devils.</p> + +<p>At Mora, in Sweden, in 1669, of many who were put to the torture and +executed, seventy-two women agreed in the following avowal, that they +were in the habit of meeting at a place called Blocula. That on their +calling out "Come forth!" the Devil used to appear to them in a gray +coat, red breeches, gray stockings, with a red beard, and a peaked hat +with party-coloured feathers on his head. He then enforced upon them, +not without blows, that they must bring him, at nights, their own and +other peoples' children, stolen for the purpose. They travel through the +air to Blocula either on beasts or on spits, or broomsticks. When they +have many children with them, they rig on an additional spar to lengthen +the back of the goat or their broom-stick that the children may have +room to sit. At Blocula they sign their name in blood and are baptized. +The Devil is a humorous, pleasant gentleman; but his table is coarse +enough, which makes the children often sick on their way home, the +product being the so-called witch-butter found in the fields. When the +Devil is larky, he solicits the witches to dance round him on their +brooms, which he suddenly pulls from under them, and uses to beat them +with till they are black and blue. He laughs at this joke till his sides +shake again. Sometimes he is in a more gracious mood, and plays to them +lovely airs upon the harp; and occasionally sons and daughters are born +to the Devil, which take up their residence at Blocula.</p> + +<p>I will add an outline of the history, furnished or corroborated by her +voluntary confession, of a lady witch, nearly the last executed for this +crime. She was, at the time of her death, seventy years of age, and had +been many years sub-prioress of the convent of Unterzell, near +Wartzburg.</p> + +<p>Maria Renata took the veil at nineteen years of age, against her +inclination, having previously been initiated in the mysteries of +witchcraft, which she continued to practise for fifty years under the +cloak of punctual attendance to discipline and pretended piety. She was +long in the station of sub-prioress, and would, for her capacity,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_680" id="Page_680">[Pg 680]</a></span> have +been promoted to the rank of prioress, had she not betrayed a certain +discontent with the ecclesiastic life, a certain contrariety to her +superiors, something half expressed only of inward dissatisfaction. +Renata had not ventured to let any one about the convent into her +confidence, and she remained free from suspicion, notwithstanding that, +from time to time, some of the nuns, either from the herbs she mixed +with their food, or through sympathy, had strange seizures, of which +some died. Renata became at length extravagant and unguarded in her +witch propensities, partly from long security, partly from desire of +stronger excitement; made noises in the dormitory, and uttered shrieks +in the garden; went at nights into the cells of the nuns to pinch and +torment them, to assist her in which she kept a considerable supply of +cats. The removal of the keys of the cells counteracted this annoyance; +but a still more efficient means was a determined blow on the part of a +nun, struck at the aggressor with the penitential scourge one night, on +the morning following which Renata was observed to have a black eye and +cut face. This event awakened suspicion against Renata. Then, one of the +nuns, who was much esteemed, declared, believing herself upon her +death-bed, that, "as she shortly expected to stand before her Maker, +Renata was uncanny, that she had often at nights been visibly tormented +by her, and that she warned her to desist from this course." General +alarm arose, and apprehension of Renata's arts; and one of the nuns, who +previously had had fits, now became possessed, and in the paroxysms told +the wildest tales against Renata. It is only wonderful how the +sub-prioress contrived to keep her ground many years against these +suspicions and incriminations. She adroitly put aside the insinuations +of the nun as imaginary or of calumnious intention, and treated +witchcraft and possession of the Devil as things which enlightened +people no longer believed in. As, however, five more of the nuns, either +taking the infection from the first, or influenced by the arts of +Renata, became possessed of devils, and unanimously attacked Renata, the +superiors could no longer avoid making a serious investigation of the +charges. Renata was confined in a cell alone, whereupon the six devils +screeched in chorus at being deprived of their friend. She had begged to +be allowed to take her papers with her; but this being refused, and +thinking herself detected, she at once avowed to her confessor and the +superiors, that she was a witch, had learned witchcraft out of the +convent, and had bewitched the six nuns. They determined to keep the +matter secret, and to attempt the conversion of Renata. And as the nuns +still continued possessed, they despatched her to a remote convent. +Here, under a show of outward piety, she still went on with her attempts +to realise witchcraft, and the nuns remained possessed. It was decided +at length to give Renata over to the civil power. She was accordingly +condemned to be burned alive; but in mitigation of punishment her head +was first struck off. Four of the possessed nuns gradually recovered +with clerical assistance; the other two remained deranged. Renata was +executed on the 21st January 1749.</p> + +<p>Renata stated, in her voluntary confession, that she had often at night +been carried bodily to witch-Sabbaths; in one of which she was first +presented to the Prince of Darkness, when she abjured God and the Virgin +at the same time. Her name, with the alteration of Maria into Emma, was +written in a black book, and she herself was stamped on the back as the +Devil's property, in return for which she received the promise of +seventy years of life, and all she might wish for. She stated that she +had often, at night, gone into the cellar of the <i>chateau</i> and drank the +best wine; in the shape of a swine had walked on the convent walls; on +the bridge had milked the cows as they passed over; and several times +had mingled with the actors in the theatre in London.</p> + +<p>A question unavoidably presents itself—How came witchcraft to be in so +great a degree the province of women? There existed sorcerers, no doubt, +but they were comparatively few. Persons of either sex and of all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_681" id="Page_681">[Pg 681]</a></span> ages +indiscriminately interested themselves in the black art; but the +professors and regular practitioners were almost exclusively women, and +principally old women. The following seem to have been some of the +causes. Women were confined to household toils; their minds had not +adequate occupation: many young unmarried women, without duties, would +lack objects of sufficient interest for their yearnings; many of the old +ones, despised, ill treated probably, soured with the world, rendered +spiteful and vindictive, took even more readily to a resource which +roused and gave employment to their imaginations, and promised to +gratify their wishes. It is evident, too, that the supposed sex of the +Devil helped him here. The old women had an idea of making much of him, +and of coaxing, and getting round the black gentleman. But beside all +this, there lies in the physical temperament of the other sex a peculiar +susceptibility of derangement of the nervous system, a predisposition to +all the varieties of trance, with its prolific sources of mental +illusion—all tending, it is to be observed, to advance the belief and +enlarge the pretensions of witchcraft.</p> + +<p>The form of trance which specially dominated in witchcraft was +trance-sleep with visions. The graduates and candidates in the faculty +sought to fall into trances, in the dreams of which they realised their +waking aspirations. They entertained no doubt, however, that their +visits to the Devil and their nocturnal exploits were genuine; and they +seem to have wilfully shut their eyes to the possibility of their having +never left their beds. For, with a skill that should have betrayed to +them the truth, they were used to prepare a witch-broth to promote in +some way their nightly expeditions. And this they composed not only of +materials calculated to prick on the imagination, but of substantial +narcotics, too—the medical effects of which they no doubt were +acquainted with. They contemplated evidently producing a sort of stupor.</p> + +<p>The professors of witchcraft had thus made the singular step of +artificially producing a sort of trance, with the object of availing +themselves of one of its attendant phenomena. The Thamans in Siberia do +the like to this day to obtain the gift of prophecy. And it is more than +probable that the Egyptian and Delphic priest habitually availed +themselves of some analogous procedure. Modern mesmerism is in part an +effort in the same direction.</p> + +<p>Without at all comprehending the real character of the power called into +play, mankind seems to have found out by a "mera palpatio," by +instinctive experiment and lucky groping in the dark, that in the stupor +of trance the mind occasionally stumbles upon odds and ends of strange +knowledge and prescience. The phenomenon was never for an instant +suspected of lying in the order of nature. It was construed, to suit the +occasion and the times, either into divine inspiration or diabolic +whisperings. But it was always supernatural. So the ignorant old +lemon-seller in Zschokke's Selbstschau thought his "hidden wisdom" a +mystical wonder; while the enlightened and accomplished narrator of +their united stories, stands alone, in striking advance ever of his own +day, when he unassumingly and diffidently puts forward his seer-gift as +<i>a simple contribution to psychical knowledge</i>. And thus, my proposed +task accomplished, my dear Archy, finally yours, &c.</p> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Mac Davus</span>.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_682" id="Page_682">[Pg 682]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="THE_HYMN_OF_KING_OLAF_THE_SAINT" id="THE_HYMN_OF_KING_OLAF_THE_SAINT"></a>THE HYMN OF KING OLAF THE SAINT.</h2> + +<h3>ALTERED FROM THE ICELANDIC.</h3> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">Swend, king of all,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">In Olaf's hall<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Now sits in state on high;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Whilst up in heaven<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Amidst the shriven<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sits Olaf's majesty.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">For not in cell<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Does our hero dwell,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But in realms of light for ever:<br /></span> +<span class="i2">As a ransom'd saint<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To heal our plaint,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Be glory to thee, gold-giver!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">Of raptures there<br /></span> +<span class="i2">He has won his share,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All cleansed from taint of sin;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">For on earth prepared,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">No toil he spared<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That holy place to win.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">That he hath won<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Near God's dear Son<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fast by the holy river—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Oh, such as thine<br /></span> +<span class="i2">May the end be mine;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Be glory to thee, gold-giver!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">His sacred form<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Unscathed by worm,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And clear as the hour he died,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Lies at this day<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Where good men pray<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At morn and at eventide.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">His nails and his hair<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Are fresh and fair,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With his yellow locks still growing;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">His cheek as red,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And his flesh not dead,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though the blood hath ceased from flowing.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">If you watch by night,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">In the dim twilight<br /></span> +<span class="i0">You may hear a requiem singing;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And the people hear<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Above his bier<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A small bell clearly ringing.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And if ye wait<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Until midnight late,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">You may hear the great bell toll:<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But none can tell<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Who tolls that bell<br /></span> +<span class="i0">If it sounds for Olaf's soul.<br /></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_683" id="Page_683">[Pg 683]</a></span> +<span class="i2">With tapers clear,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Which Christ holds dear,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O'er the corpse so still reclining,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">By day and night<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Is the altar light<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the cross of the Saviour shining.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">For our King did so,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And all men know<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That washed from sin and shriven,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">All free from taint,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">A ransom'd saint,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He dwells with the saints in heaven.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">And thousands come,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The deaf and the dumb,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To the tomb of our monarch here—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The sick and the blind<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of every kind<br /></span> +<span class="i0">They throng to the holy bier.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">With heads all bare<br /></span> +<span class="i2">They breathe their prayer<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As they kneel on the flinty ground:<br /></span> +<span class="i2">God hears their sighs,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And the sick men rise<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All whole, and healed, and sound.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">Then to Olaf pray,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To spare thy day<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From wrath, and wrong, and harm;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To save thy land<br /></span> +<span class="i2">From the spoiler's hand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the fell invader's arm.<br /></span> +<span class="i2">God's man is he,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To deal to thee<br /></span> +<span class="i0">What is ask'd in a lowly spirit—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Let thy prayer not cease,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And wealth, and peace,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And a blessing thou shalt inherit.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">For prayers are good,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">If before the rood<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thy beads thou tellest praying;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">If thou tellest on,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Forgetting none<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of the saints who with God are staying.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="right"> +W. E. A. +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="FOUR_SONNETS_BY_ELIZABETH_BARRETT_BROWNING" id="FOUR_SONNETS_BY_ELIZABETH_BARRETT_BROWNING"></a>FOUR SONNETS BY ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING.</h2> + +<h3>TWO SKETCHES.</h3> + + +<h4>I.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The shadow of her face upon the wall<br /></span> +<span class="i0">May take your memory to the perfect Greek;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But when you front her, you would call the cheek<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Too full, sir, for your models, if withal<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That bloom it wears could leave you critical,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And that smile reaching toward the rosy streak:—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For one who smiles so, has no need to speak,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To lead your thoughts along, as steed to stall!<br /></span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_684" id="Page_684">[Pg 684]</a></span> +<span class="i0">A smile that turns the sunny side o' the heart<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On all the world, as if herself did win<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By what she lavished on an open mart:—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Let no man call the liberal sweetness, sin,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">While friends may whisper, as they stand apart,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Methinks there's still some warmer place within."<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<h4>II.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Her azure eyes, dark lashes hold in fee:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her fair superfluous ringlets, without check,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Drop after one another down her neck;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As many to each cheek as you might see<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Green leaves to a wild rose! This sign, outwardly,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And a like woman-covering seems to deck<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her inner nature! For she will not fleck<br /></span> +<span class="i0">World's sunshine with a finger. Sympathy<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Must call her in Love's name! and then, I know,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She rises up, and brightens, as she should,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And lights her smile for comfort, and is slow<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In nothing of high-hearted fortitude.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To smell this flower, come near it; such can grow<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In that sole garden where Christ's brow dropped blood.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<h4>MOUNTAINEER AND POET.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The simple goatherd who treads places high,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Beholding there his shadow (it is wist)<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dilated to a giant's on the mist,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Esteems not his own stature larger by<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The apparent image; but more patiently<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Strikes his staff down beneath his clenching fist—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">While the snow-mountains lift their amethyst<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And sapphire crowns of splendour, far and nigh,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Into the air around him. Learn from hence<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Meek morals, all ye poets that pursue<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Your way still onward up to eminence!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ye are not great, because creation drew<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Large revelations round your earliest sense,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor bright, because God's glory shines for you.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<h4>THE POET.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The poet hath the child's sight in his breast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And sees all <i>new</i>. What oftenest he has viewed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He views with the first glory. Fair and good<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Pall never on him, at the fairest, best,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But stand before him, holy, and undressed<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In week-day false conventions; such as would<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Drag other men down from the altitude<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of primal types, too early dispossessed.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Why, God would tire of all his heavens as soon<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As thou, O childlike, godlike poet! did'st<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of daily and nightly sights of sun and moon!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And therefore hath He set thee in the midst<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where men may hear thy wonder's ceaseless tune,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And praise His world for ever as thou bidst.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_685" id="Page_685">[Pg 685]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CONSTANTINOPLE_AND_THE_DECLINING_OF_THE_OTTOMAN_EMPIRE" id="CONSTANTINOPLE_AND_THE_DECLINING_OF_THE_OTTOMAN_EMPIRE"></a>CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE DECLINING OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE.</h2> + +<h3>(BEING A FEW PAGES FROM MY EASTERN DIARY).</h3> + + +<p>----At half-past seven in the evening, we left Smyrna by the Scamandre, +a French government steamer, and were soon gliding over a sea smooth as +glass. The soft tints of the twilight spread gradually around us, and to +a beautiful day there succeeded one of those marvellous nights, during +which one cannot bring one's-self to the determination of retiring to +rest.</p> + +<p>The dawn of day surprised me on deck. In the morning we neared the land, +which presented to our view a desert plain, covered with dwarf oak. This +was the site of ancient Troy; we were coasting near those famous fields, +<i>ubi Troja fuit</i>; that stream which was throwing itself before our eyes +into the sea, was formerly called the "Simois;" those two hillocks which +we saw upon the coast, were the tombs of Hector and Patroclus; that huge +blue mountain which in the distance raised towards the sky its three +peaks covered with snow, was Ida; and behind us, from the midst of the +sparkling waves, rose the island of Tenedos. All conversation between +the passengers from many nations had long since ceased, and I +contemplated in silence that grim desert, which, at Eton, I had dreamed +of as full of movement and sound, and that calm sea which I had so often +figured to myself as covered with the ships of Agamemnon, of Ulysses, +and of Achilles the</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Impiger, iracundus, inexorabilis, acer."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>At mid-day we entered the Dardanelles, and several hours afterwards, we +cast anchor between Sestos and Abydos, before a small white town, +containing no remarkable objects. Sestos and Abydos, which it must be +owned would not be by any means celebrated, were it not for the +enterprises which cost Leander his life and Lord Byron an ague, are two +hamlets, which, like the greater portion of Turkish villages, offer in +no shape whatever what it is the fashion to term the Oriental type. They +are composed of an assemblage of rose-coloured houses, whose large red +roofs, seen through the verdure and flowers, call to one's mind the +description of a Chinese village.</p> + +<p>Upon its arrival, the Scamandre was immediately surrounded by a +multitude of caicks filled with bearded Turks, veiled women, and various +coloured bales. Upon deck rose a deafening Babel of voices,—the sailors +swore, the women screamed, and the porters fought, until at length quiet +was restored, and one hundred and eighty-six new Mussulman passengers +came on board the steamer. Amid the caicks ranged along the sides of the +vessel, was one much more richly freighted than the rest; the traveller +to whom it belonged was a young Arab, who, standing on a pile of bales, +domineered over his boatmen by several feet. His white garments set off +to advantage his dark complexion; and a cloak of black wool, profusely +embroidered with gold lace, drew upon him the eyes of all. I had seldom, +if ever, beheld a head more beautiful or more expressive than that of +the young man. His large black eyes were full of intelligence, and in +his bearing was a natural nobility and pride. As long as the confusion, +described above, continued, he directed his boatmen to keep at a +distance, but when all were embarked, and the Scamandre was ready to +start, he hailed the vessel, and having mounted the side-ladders, gave +his hand to six veiled women in succession, whose long white dominos +prevented the spectators from even guessing at their age or beauty. The +young man, once on board, conducted his odalisques to a fore-cabin, +placed a hideous negro at the door as sentinel, and returned immediately +to the deck, where another negro presented him with a narguileh (Turkish +water-pipe).</p> + +<p>Nothing can less resemble our regular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_686" id="Page_686">[Pg 686]</a></span> fortifications than the fort of +Gallipoli, (before which we soon after passed,) and the other castles of +the Dardanelles, which ought to render Constantinople the most +impregnable place in the world (from the sea.) The forts are large +buildings of a dazzling white colour, perforated with port-holes, +similar to those belonging to a ship of war, and mounted with old guns, +the greater portion of which are without carriages, and served, +ordinarily, by a single artillery-man, assisted in time of war by three +or four peasants. In the present century, however, these batteries have +shown their prowess, and against our own countrymen too. During the +month of February 1807, the British government, justly irritated at the +increasing influence that the French ambassador, Count Sebastiani, was +obtaining at the Ottoman court, despatched Admiral Sir John Duckworth, +in command of a squadron, with orders to bombard, if necessary, the +Seraglio itself. Unfortunately, Sir John Duckworth's plan of acting was +exactly contrary to what would have been our gallant Nelson's in the +same position. After having passed without difficulty before the then +disarmed castles of the Dardanelles, after having burned the Ottoman +fleet off Gallipoli, while the crews were peaceably celebrating on shore +the feast of Courban-Beiram, Sir John presented himself off +Constantinople, and threatened to bombard that city, should the Sultan +refuse to accept the conditions he offered, at the same time he allowed +his Imperial Highness two days to consider the terms; Nelson would have +allowed as many hours only. The folly of Admiral Duckworth's conduct +fully shown in the sequel, for, at the conclusion of the forty-eight +hours, the approaches to Stamboul and Galata were bristling—thanks to +the delay accorded, and to the exertions of the French ambassador—with +twelve hundred pieces of cannon; while, at the same time, orders having +been sent to the castles of the Dardanelles to mount their batteries, +the British squadron was hemmed in on all sides, as if by enchantment. +The besieged now became the aggressors, and there soon remained to +Admiral Duckworth no other resource than to weigh anchor and get away as +fast as possible, which he accordingly did. The batteries of the +Dardanelles were now, however, prepared for him. A most destructive fire +was opened upon the ill-fated fleet: two corvettes were sunk off +Gallipoli; the Admiral's flag-ship, the Royal George, lost her mainmast; +a huge marble ball, weighing eight hundred pounds, swept away a quantity +of hands from the lower deck of the Standard, while many officers and +seamen wore severely wounded. It must be here observed, that the +batteries of the Dardanelles owed much of the murderous effect of their +cannonading to the skill of eight French engineer officers, whom Count +Sebastiani, profiting by the delay accorded by Admiral Duckworth to the +Sultan, had despatched to the castles.</p> + +<p>These historical reminiscences did not prevent my thoughts occasionally +reverting to the six odalisques, who formed the suite of the young Arab +on board. Ever since their arrival, I had been reflecting that in all +probability never would so excellent an opportunity offer itself of +penetrating the secrets of a Mussulman harem, and of assuring myself of +the vaunted beauty of the mysterious women of Asia. As soon as we were +again in motion, I began to watch the black Argus to whose guard the +fair houris were intrusted. For more than an hour I lurked without +success about the fore-hatchway, for, faithful to his trust, the slave +was lying at the threshold of the door that closed upon his young +mistresses; and I was on the point of losing all patience, when I beheld +him suddenly rise and mount rapidly on deck. He had no sooner +disappeared than I glided into his place, and, having applied my eye to +a large chink in the door, cast a most indiscreet glance into the cabin. +In front of me two women were seated upon their heels, one of them had +thrown aside her veil; and I was gazing in admiration upon a pale but +beautiful face, set off by two immense black and brilliant eyes, when +suddenly I heard behind me the sound of hurried steps. It was the negro +returning to his post, who, on perceiving me, began to cry out most +lustily. Having no desire to commence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_687" id="Page_687">[Pg 687]</a></span> a contest with him, I proceeded +to mount the hatchway and gain the deck.</p> + +<p>The exasperated slave, however, followed me, and hurrying to his master, +proceeded to inform him of my escapade, pointing at the same time to me. +Two old Turks leaped immediately to their feet with fury depicted on +their features; and one of them placed his hand upon the hilt of his +cangiar, and pronounced in a voice half-choked with passion the word +"Ghiaour," (infidel): in answer to which, I politely told him, (as I was +a good Turkish scholar,) to mind his own business, and that I was rather +inclined to consider him the greater infidel of the two. He looked both +surprised and vexed at this, but did not attempt to retort. As to the +young Arab, he proved himself to be a man of sense; for, contenting +himself with smiling at his infuriated attendant, he descended to the +cabin of his odalisques, from whence he did not emerge during the +remainder of our voyage. I did not again see him, and never knew who was +the Mussulman, so handsome and at the same time so little fanatical.</p> + +<p>The strait through which we had navigated all day, gradually widened as +we advanced; the shores as they receded were covered with opal tints; +the vessel began to roll, and we entered the sea of Marmora. At sunset +the Mussulmans with whom the deck was crowded collected in groups, and +devoutly said their evening prayer. Their countenances were wrapped in +deep devotion, and they appeared to take no notice of the satirical +smiles, which the strangeness of their attitudes called forth from +several unreflecting travellers, who, by wanting in respect for the +usages of the countries through which they were passing, lowered +themselves immensely in the estimation of the inhabitants. The +irritation excited by the ill-timed railleries of such foolish persons, +is no doubt one of the chief causes of the hatred in which Christians +are held in Turkey. Surely nothing could be less calculated to excite +mockery, than the sight of the Mussulman travellers at their evening +devotions; besides, be it had in mind, that upon this Christian vessel, +scarcely a Christian perhaps was thinking of his God, while not a single +Mahometan was to be seen unengaged in prayer, as the sun sunk below the +horizon.</p> + +<p>The following morning I was early upon deck. The sun had not yet risen, +and the air was fresh and invigorating; while upon the white, heavy, +oily sea, was a slight fog, which the breeze was dispersing in flakes. +Around us a quantity of porpoises were either splashing in the midst of +the waves or floating like buoys upon the surface. The most profound +silence reigned upon the deck of the steamer. Wet with the night-dews, +the half-slumbering seamen of the watch were seated in a circle near the +funnel; while numberless Turks, rolled up in their yellow coverlets +striped with red, were sleeping forward beneath the netting: the +steersman at the wheel and the man on the look-out were alone really +wide awake. Suddenly, I perceived dawning in the east a greenish light, +which became yellow as it ascended in the heavens; the low and flat +shore appeared like a black line upon this luminous background, and by +degrees the sea resumed its azure tint. An hour afterwards we were +within cannon-shot of the Seraglio; but, alas! a thick fog covered the +city. Constantinople was invisible—and I was deploring the mischance, +which was depriving me of a long-anticipated pleasure, when suddenly the +sun shone forth brightly, and the fog acquired as if by enchantment a +wonderful transparency. The curtain was, as it were, torn to bits, and +from all quarters at once there appeared to my dazzled eyes forests of +minarets with gilded peaks, thousands of cupolas blazing in the light, +hills covered with many-coloured houses, surrounded by verdure; an +immense succession of palaces with grotesque windows, blue-roofed +mosques, groves of cypress-trees and sycamores, gardens full of flowers, +a port filled as far as the eye could discern with ships, masts, and +flags; in a word, the whole of that enchanted city, which resembles less +an immense capital than an endless succession of lovely kiosks, built in +a boundless park, having lakes for docks, mountains for background, +forests for thickets, fleets for boats,—in fine, an incomparable spot, +and at the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_688" id="Page_688">[Pg 688]</a></span> time so grand and elegant, that it seems to have been +designed by fairies, and executed by giants.</p> + +<p>Several writers have compared the view of Constantinople to that of +Naples. I cannot, however, agree with them. Any one can figure the +latter capital, whilst, on the contrary, the City of the Sultan +surpasses all that imagination can picture. Our enchantment, however, +was of short duration: the vapours again became condensed, the view was +gradually covered with a rosy haze, then became dim, and Constantinople +disappeared from before us like a dream. The Scamandre, which had +stopped for a few minutes, was again put in motion, and having rounded +the Seraglio, cast anchor in the midst of the strait which separates +Stamboul (the Turkish quarter) from Galata, (the European faubourg.) In +a moment the deck of our vessel was one scene of confusion: the sailors +were running to and fro, while the passengers were rushing one against +another, vociferating after their baggage. Around the vessel there kept +gliding two or three hundred black caicks, rowed by half-naked boatmen; +and notwithstanding the orders to the contrary, a quantity of Maltese +sailors, Turkish porters, and Levantine ciceroni came on board, and +literally took us by storm, bawling out their offers of service, in +almost every known language. Clouds of blue pigeons, and whitewinged +albatros, flew about over our heads, uttering plaintive cries; add to +these the stentorian voice of our French commander, the curiosity and +impatience of the travellers demonstrated by their noisy exclamations, +and one will have an idea of the spectacle offered by the deck of a +steamer on its arrival at a Turkish port.</p> + +<p>During the hauling of the vessel to the quay, I scarcely knew upon what +to fix my eyes, attracted as they simultaneously were by a thousand +different objects. Here was the Golden Horn with its numberless ships, +the cypress-trees of Galata, and the seven hills of ancient Byzantium +covered with mosques; there, the blue waves of the Propontis, and the +glittering banks of Scutari. Giddy with enthusiasm, and intoxicated with +admiration, I attempted, as our caick approached the landing-place, to +be the first to leap upon the quay, when, just as I was in the act of +springing, my foot slipped, and I fell headlong into a miry stream. Such +was my entrance into Constantinople.</p> + +<p>As soon as I gained footing, splashed with mud from head to foot, I +remained a moment motionless, and almost petrified with astonishment. +All was changed around me: the enchanted panorama had disappeared, and I +found myself in a small filthy crossway, at the entrance of a labyrinth +of narrow, damp, dark, muddy streets. The houses which surrounded me, +built as they were of disjointed planks, had a miserable aspect; time +and rain had diluted their primitive red colour into numberless nameless +tints. One of those minarets which from afar appeared so slender and so +beautiful, now that it was close to me proved to be merely a small +column devoid of symmetry, while its covering of cracked plaster seemed +on the point of falling to pieces. The Turkish promenaders whom from a +distance I had taken for richly attired merchants, proved to be a set of +miserable tatterdemalions with ragged turbans. Behind the porters who +crowded to the landing-place, were butchers embowelling sheep in the +open street; while the pavement was covered with bloody mire and smoking +entrails, around which several score of hideous dogs, of a fallow +colour, were growling and fighting. A fetid stench arose from the damp +gutters, where neither air nor light have ever penetrated, where +corruptions of all sorts amass, and where one is continually in danger +of stepping upon a dead dog or rat. Such is without exaggeration the +aspect of the greater part of the streets of Constantinople, and in +particular those of Galata. This contrast between the misery of what +surrounds you, and the incomparable beauty of the same spot when seen +from a distance, has never yet been sufficiently remarked upon by +travellers who seek to describe Constantinople. Perhaps they have been +unwilling to cool the enthusiasm of their readers in dirtying with these +hideous, but true details, their gold and silver-plated descriptions.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_689" id="Page_689">[Pg 689]</a></span></p> + +<p>Perfectly disenchanted by this sudden change of scene, I followed the +bearer of my baggage up a street, which was steep, badly paved, and so +narrow that three men could scarcely have walked along it abreast. On +the right and left hand were disgusting little shops, or rather booths, +filled with green fruit and vegetables. Having proceeded onwards, we +rounded the tower of Galata, which, from a near view resembles a +handsome dove-cote, and shortly afterwards arrived at Pera, and +proceeded to take up our quarters at a kind of hotel, kept by one +Giusepine Vitali, where I immediately went to bed and was soon +afterwards fast asleep.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, I was awakened by my fellow-travellers, and +accompanied them to the caravanserai of the Turning Dervishes. A +somewhat lengthened residence in the northern provinces of Persia, where +a Turkish idiom is spoken, had given me a tolerable fluency in that +language, and I was thus enabled to act as interpreter to my friends. +The cicerone of the hotel conducted us to a circular building situated +in the midst of a small garden, whither was hurrying a crowd composed of +Greeks, Armenians, and Turks. Having arrived at the vestibule, we took +off our boots and confided them to the care of a man who kept a sort of +depôt for slippers, of which he hired out to each of us a pair. We then +entered a large circular hall, lighted from above, in the centre of +which was an oaken floor, waxed and polished with the greatest care, and +protected by a balustrade. Around this arena were seated a number of +spectators of all ages, country, and costumes, and exhaling a strong +odour of garlic. The ceremony was commenced: for to the music of a +barbarous orchestra, composed of small timbals and squeaking fifes, +accompanying some nasal voices, about twenty tall, bearded young men, +clad in long white robes, were waltzing gravely round an old man in a +blue pelisse. These men carried on their heads a thick beaver cap, +similar in form to a flower-pot turned upside down. Their white robes, +made of a heavy kind of woollen stuff, were so constantly bulged out +with the air that they seemed made of wood. With their arms extended in +the form of a cross, the left hand being somewhat more elevated than the +right, and their looks fixed upon the ceiling with a stupid stare, these +Dervishes continued to turn rapidly round upon their naked feet with +such regularity and impassibility that they seemed like automatons put +into motion by machinery.</p> + +<p>Suddenly the music ceased, upon which the Dervishes threw themselves +simultaneously upon their knees, inclining their heads at the same time +to the ground. For several minutes they remained motionless in this +position, while some attendants threw a large black cloak over each, +upon which they again stood up and ranged themselves in a line. Upon +this the old man in the blue pelisse, who had hitherto sat motionless +upon his heels, began a plaintive nasal chant, to which his subordinates +responded in a roaring chorus; this finished, the crowd began to +disperse, and we returned to our hotel.</p> + +<p>Besides the Turning Dervishes, there are also at Constantinople the +Howling Dervishes, who, instead of waltzing until they fall from +giddiness, continue to utter the most frightful shrieks, until they fall +upon the ground exhausted and foaming at the mouth. Historians have +accorded different origins to these singular and absurd exercises; for +my part, I am inclined to consider them as remnants of the furious +dances taught by the ancient people of Asia to the Corybantes.</p> + +<p>The day after my arrival I embarked for Stamboul, the Turkish quarter, +in one of those long caicks which are as it were the hackney coaches of +Constantinople. The least oscillation is sufficient to upset these light +barks, which are impelled with inconceivable rapidity by two or three +fine light-looking Arnaouts, dressed in silken shirts. In two minutes, +having traversed the Golden Horn, passing through an immense crowd of +boats of every form, and ships of every nation, we disembarked upon a +landing-place even more dangerous than the caick, on account of its +slipperiness and the chances thereby of falling headlong into a +receptacle of filth and mud. The streets<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_690" id="Page_690">[Pg 690]</a></span> of Stamboul are still more +narrow, filthy, and fetid than those of Galata and Pera. Wooden hovels, +badly constructed, and worse painted; a species of cages pierced with an +infinite number of trellised windows, with one story projecting over the +ground floor, flank on the right and on the left hand these passages, +through which hurry a motley crowd with noiseless tread. The pavement, +made of little stones placed in the dust, slip from under one's feet and +expose one to continual falls. Upon the boards of the first shops one +passes are piled heaps of large fish, whose scales glitter in the sun, +in spite of the dust. Fawn-coloured dogs, in much greater numbers than +at Galata, run between your legs—and wo to whosoever should disengage +himself too energetically from these hideous brutes, which are protected +by Mussulman bigotry! The habits of these animals, whose number amounts +to above a hundred thousand, are exceedingly singular. They belong to no +one, and have no habitation; they are born, they live and they die, in +the open street; at every turn one may see a litter of puppies suckled +by their mother. Upon what these quadrupeds feed it would be difficult +to state. The Turkish government abandons to them the clearing of the +streets, and the offal and every sort of filth, together with the dead +bodies of their fellows, compose their apparently ordinary nourishment. +At night they wander about in the burying grounds, howling in the most +frightful manner. Whatever may be their means of existence, they +multiply their species with the most surprising rapidity. Some years +ago, the canine race had increased to such a degree at Constantinople +that it became dangerous, when, to the pious horror of the Old +Mussulmans, the Sultan Mahmood, among other reforms, caused twenty +thousand of these animals to be, not poisoned, he would not have dared +to so greatly offend against the prejudices of the inhabitants, but +transported to the isles of Marmora. In a few days they had devoured +every thing in the place of exile, after which, tormented by hunger, +they made such a hideous row, and uttered such plaintive howls, that +pity was taken upon them, and they were brought back in triumph to +Constantinople. Fortunately hydrophobia is unknown in the Levant.</p> + +<p>The bazars of Constantinople have been so often described that it would +be useless to describe them at any length. I will merely observe, +therefore, that though infinitely more considerable, they do not +respond, any more than those of Smyrna, to the ideas of luxury and +grandeur which untravelled Europeans are apt to conceive of them. The +Turkish bazars have a miserable aspect; they are nothing more than an +immense labyrinth of large vaulted galleries, clumsily built, and at all +times damp in the extreme. Magnificent carpets, stuffs embroidered in +gold and silver, and other objects, the richness of which contrasts most +singularly with the nakedness of the walls, are hung out for display on +cords stretched transversely. The counter is a flat board of wood, very +slightly elevated above the ground, and which serves as a divan to the +seller and a seat to the buyer. From this place, which is usually +covered with a mat, the Mussulman gazes in silence upon the passing +foreigner, whom he rarely deigns to address by the name of Effendi; +while, on the contrary, the active and loquacious Armenian even leaves +his shop to run after him with some tempting object in his hand, at the +same time indiscriminately giving him the title of "Signore Capitan." In +the bazars are an astonishing number of articles which are often very +cheap, such as tissues of silk, dressing gowns, gold embroidery, and +Persian carpets, perfumery, precious stones, pieces of amber, furs, +sweetmeats, pipes, morocco leather, velvet slippers, silken scarfs and +Cachemire shawls cover a space extending over several leagues. In the +"<i>Besestein</i>," a large building separated from the other bazars, one +meets with in quantities those old arms, so sought after by antiquaries, +carbines ornamented with coral, magnificent yataghans worn by the +Janissaries before their destruction, and the famous blades of Khorasan.</p> + +<p>The commerce of Constantinople is closely allied with that of Smyrna; +and many branches of trade, such as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_691" id="Page_691">[Pg 691]</a></span> silk and opium, being required to +pay duties at the customhouse of the capital, the merchants buy them at +Constantinople merely in order to pass them over to Smyrna, where they +find a more advantageous market for them. In consequence, these goods +are twice borne upon the registers of the Turkish customhouses, which, +be it observed, are exceedingly badly kept. Wool forms the principal +branch of trade at the Porte, which is abundantly furnished with that +article from her nearest provinces, Roumelia, Thessaly, and Bulgaria, +which, containing about five million inhabitants, feed about eight +million sheep, the value of which may be estimated at about two hundred +million piastres, (the Turkish piastre, is worth about 2-1/4d.) It would +have been impossible for such an important object to have failed +exciting the cupidity of a government constituted like that of the +Ottoman empire; in consequence, in 1829, they attempted to make a +monopoly of the wool-trade. Fortunately, the clamorous despair of the +owners of the flocks, and some good advice, caused the Divan to recall +the measure, which would in all probability not only have given a fatal +blow to the wool-trade, but have entirely put an end to the feeding of +flocks throughout Turkey. Instead, therefore, of monopolising this +branch of commerce, the government saddled it with such an exorbitant +duty, that the provinces definitively gained little by the change. The +price of wool was more than quadrupled, and in 1833 there was sold for +above 170 piastres the hundredweight what in 1816 cost but forty +piastres. The abolition of the monopolies and the modification of the +duties have given, since the last six or seven years, some facilities to +this trade, without, however, entirely restoring it to its former state +of prosperity. Partly destroyed by the severe blow it had received, and +shackled by the avarice of the Pashas, it languishes, as indeed does +every other branch of trade and industry in the empire.</p> + +<p>Of Turkey, which men have rendered a country of misery and of famine, +the Almighty seems to have intended to have made a land of promise. For +agriculture, He has created immense plains, unequalled in fertility +throughout the globe, and in the bowels of the mountains He has hidden +incalculable treasures; and in return for all these gifts, these +glorious gifts, what have the inhabitants done? they have left the land +uncultivated, and the mountains unsearched. Mines of all sorts abound. +Copper, (which is sold in secret only, and is a contraband article,) +were its mines worked on a grand scale, would alone furnish a new +element of commerce to Constantinople, and might help to draw it from +its present state of torpor. But will the Turks ever dream of such a +thing? Never! For like the dog in the fable, the Ottomans will neither +profit themselves nor let others profit by what is in the territory. Too +indolent to work out the natural riches of their soil, they are too +jealous to permit others to do it for them. Besides, Europeans, by an +ancient law which we have recently seen confirmed, having no right to +possess land in Turkey, cannot undertake any agricultural or commercial +speculation of any importance. In addition to this, the Turkish +government itself is ignorant of most of the natural riches of its +territory; for the inhabitants, well knowing the character of the men +who have the management of affairs, take every possible precaution to +conceal the existence of the mines, for fear they should be forced to +work them without remuneration.</p> + +<p>The provinces of the Danube have now yielded to Thrace and to Macedon +the furnishing of the capital with corn. This important trade has been +ruined, like every thing else, by the barbarous measures of a stupid +ministry. In reserving to itself the supplying of the capital, the +government does not allow the exportation of corn without special +permission. Without doubt, the liberty of this trade would have given a +new impulse to agriculture, and would have restored prosperity to +several provinces; but that would not have been for the interest of +those personages who had the power of giving permits, and who +consequently made a traffic of the firmans. In 1828, a circumstance +occurred which ought to have enlightened the government on this point. +The Russians had intercepted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_692" id="Page_692">[Pg 692]</a></span> all communication with the capital, and in +consequence a want of provisions occurred; for the ill-furnished public +magazines afforded such damaged wheat only, that it could with great +difficulty be baked into bad and unhealthy bread. To remedy this evil, +an employé ventured to suggest that any one who could procure corn +should be permitted to supply the capital. The situation of affairs was +critical, for the people were beginning to murmur; and the suggestion +was carried into effect. No sooner was the permission accorded, than a +multitude of farmers and merchants hastened to pour grain into the +market, and plenty soon reappeared. This was an excellent lesson to the +government, but how did it profit thereby? First of all it reinstated +the monopoly, and four years afterwards, in 1832, happening to require a +million measures for its magazines, in order to make more sure of +speedily procuring that quantity, it forbade the <i>exportation</i> of corn, +inasmuch that to collect the required million of measures, it destroyed, +in all probability, a hundred millions, and ruined about ten thousand +cultivators. This barbarous system partly ended in 1838, but it will be +long before its withering effects are effaced.</p> + +<p>It is in the long corridors of the bazars that the commercial business +of the country is carried on. An immense multitude, more curious to view +than even the exposition of the different wares, congregates thither +daily. Constantinople, notwithstanding its state of decline, is always +the point of intersection between the eastern and western world. At this +general rendezvous, whither Europe and Asia send their representatives, +one may study the human species in almost every possible variety of +type. English, Americans, Russians, Greeks, Italians, Germans, Persians, +Circassians, Arabs, Koords, Austrians, Hungarians, Abyssinians, Tartars, +French, &c. &c., hurry to and fro around the Turk, who smokes and +dreams, calm and immovable amidst the active throng, which presents an +inconceivable medley of silk pelisses, white bornous and black robes, +surmounted by green turbans, red fezs, and beaver hats. Numbers of +women, covered with white dominos, advance slowly and spectre-like +through the crowd, which every now and then opens its ranks to give +passage to some mounted Pasha, followed by his attendants on foot. Here +and there may be seen asses loaded with bales, and at the further end of +the galleries are caravans of camels. One's ears are deafened with the +piercing cries of the sherbet-sellers, and the howling of the dogs; +while quantities of pigeons coo over the heads of the motley crowd. +Although, on taking a general view of this spectacle, there is little to +admire, still one may select from it an infinite number of original +scenes and pictures full of character. Here, for instance, an ambulating +musician sings, or rather chants to an attentive audience one of those +interminable ballads of which the Turks never tire; there, are half a +dozen Greeks quarrelling and vociferating so energetically, that one +would expect nothing less than that from words they would come to +bloodshed; while, further on, a circle of friends are regaling +themselves over a basket of green cucumbers. Talking of cucumbers, they +almost entirely compose, in summer, the nourishment of the Turks. The +Sultan Mahmood II. was excessively fond of this fruit, or rather +vegetable, and cultivated it with his own hands in the Seraglio gardens. +Having one day perceived that some of his cucumbers were missing, he +sent for his head gardener, and informed him that, should such a +circumstance occur again, he would order his head to be cut off. The +next day three more cucumbers had been stolen, upon which the gardener, +to save his own head, accused the pages of his highness of having +committed the theft. These unhappy youths were immediately sent for, and +having all declared themselves innocent, the enraged Sultan, in order to +discover the culprit, commanded them one after another to be +disembowelled. Nothing was found in the stomach or entrails of the first +six victims, but the autopsy of the seventh proved him to have been the +guilty one.</p> + +<p>In the midst of the crowds in the Turkish capital, the women present a +curious spectacle, wandering about as they do covered with white +dominos,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_693" id="Page_693">[Pg 693]</a></span> or rather winding-sheets. The lot of this portion of the +Mussulman population is much less unhappy than one would be led to +expect. They certainly hold a secondary station in society, but, +brought-up as they are in the most complete ignorance, they are +unconscious of their degraded position, and know not that there is a +better. They are, in general, treated very kindly by their husbands and +masters, and do not undergo, as it is supposed, either capricious or +brutal treatment. Although in Europe they still believe a Turk to be +constantly surrounded by a multitude of odalisques, to whom, as it suits +his fancy, he throws in turn his handkerchief, at Constantinople there +are very few Osmanlees who have three or even two wives, and even these +they lodge in separate mansions, in general far distant from each other. +Almost all the Turks, with the exception of the very few above mentioned +individuals, possess in general but one wife, to whom they are most +faithful. The grand seignior alone is a Sultan in the full and +voluptuous acceptation of the term. He is possessor of a magnificent +palace, where no noise from without ever penetrates, and where immense +riches have collected together all the wonders of luxury. Marble baths, +lovely gardens bounded by a sparkling sea, and vaulted by an indigo sky, +legions of slaves, who have no will but his, no law but his caprices; +and in this Eden three or four hundred women chosen from out of the most +beautiful in the universe; this is the world, this is the life of that +man: and yet, although he be so young, all who know him say that the +present Sultan is morose, sad, and splenetic.</p> + +<p>On mounting, at sixteen, upon the throne of Turkey, Abdul Medjid +announced it to be his intention to change nothing that his father +Mahmood had established, and declared himself a partisan of the system +of reform commenced by that sovereign. Notwithstanding the custom, +rendered almost sacred by tradition, he renounced the turban and was +<i>crowned</i> with the fez. Contrary to the usage of former Sultans, who on +their accession put to death or closely imprisoned all their brothers, +he allowed his brother Abdul Haziz not only his life, but full liberty.</p> + +<p>The Hatti-sherif of Gulhanch, published on the 19th of November 1839, +and which has been viewed in so many and different lights, proved at +least the good intentions of this sovereign, called so young to support +so weighty a burden. At various times he has manifested a desire for +instruction, and has taken lessons in geography and in Italian; he has +also travelled over a part of his empire.</p> + +<p>It is usual at Constantinople for the Sultan to proceed every Friday +(the Mussulman Sabbath) to pray in one of the mosques. The one chosen is +named in the morning, and he proceeds thither on horseback or in his +caick, according to the quarter in which it is situated. This weekly +ceremony is almost the sole occasion on which foreigners can see his +highness. During my stay at Constantinople, I had several opportunities +of gazing upon the descendant of the Prophet. He is a young man, of +slender frame, of grave physiognomy, and a most <i>distingué</i> appearance. +A crowd of officers and eunuchs formed his suite, and all heads bowed +low at his approach. Abdul Medjid, who was the twentieth-born child of +his father Mahmood, was born at Constantinople on the 19th of April +1823. His black and stiff beard cause him to appear older than he is in +reality. His eye is very brilliant, and his features regular. His face +is somewhat marked with the smallpox; but this is not very apparent, as +the young sultan, according to the custom of the harem, has an +artificial complexion for days of ceremony. Naturally of a delicate +frame, excesses have much enfeebled his constitution; his continual +ill-health, his pallor, and his teeth already decayed, announce, that +though so young in years, he is expiating the pleasures of a Sultan by a +premature decrepitude. Abdul Medjid has several children, who are weak +and sickly like their father, and the state of their health inspires +constant anxiety.</p> + +<p>Few sovereigns have been more diversely judged than Mahmood, the father +of the present Sultan. Lauded to the skies by some, lowered to the dust +by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_694" id="Page_694">[Pg 694]</a></span> others, he died before Europe was properly enlightened as to his +intentions. Now that his work has undergone the ordeal of time, one can +appreciate it at its real value. Ascending the throne at an epoch of +anarchy and disorder, having at one and the same time to oppose the +invasion of Russia, and to put down the rebellion of the Pashas, who +were raising their pashalicks into sovereignties, Mahmood gave proofs, +during several years, of a force of character almost inconceivable in a +man enervated from his childhood by the pleasures of the harem. +Unfortunately his intellect was unequal to his obstinacy: every abuse he +put down gave rise to or made way for new abuses, which he could not +foresee, and was unable to destroy. The established order of affairs, +which he fought against, was a hydra, from which, for one head cut off, +twenty sprang up. Far from augmenting his power, his greatest +enterprises merely tended to enfeeble it. The repression of Ali the +Pasha of Janina, cost Mahmood the kingdom of Greece; and had not the +powers of Europe intervened, the war against Mehemet Ali would have cost +him his throne. Even the destruction of the Janissaries, which was +considered so great a cause of triumph by the Sultan, was it in reality +so? It is surely permitted to doubt the circumstance. That powerful +militia, scattered through the empire, was in some sort the focus of +that spirit of fatalism, which had till then been the principal prop of +the imperfect work of the Arabian impostor; to destroy it was to strike +a death-blow to that society which breathed as it were in war alone. In +overthrowing an obstacle which paralysed his power, Mahmood dug an abyss +into which the Turkish empire must sooner or later fall; for the spirit +of religious enthusiasm which he destroyed has been replaced by no other +incentive.</p> + +<p>The chief fault of Mahmood was the cutting down without thinking of +sowing; for without properly understanding the extent of what he was +doing, he too hastily cast from its old course, without placing it in a +better, a dull stupid nation, to transform which required both time and +patience. Above all, Mahmood was guided solely by the impulses of an +indomitable pride, and seems to have much less considered the interests +of his empire, than the satisfying of his own vanity. He hastened to +change the aspect and surface of things, deluding himself into the idea +that he had metamorphosed an Asiatic people into a European state. +Hurried away by the desire of innovation, and at the same time cramped +by the effects of a religion which resists all progress, striving in +vain to make the precepts of the Koran compatible with civilisation, +Mahmood moved during the whole of his reign within a fatal circle, and, +dying of an ignoble malady, he left his empire tottering to its fall.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_695" id="Page_695">[Pg 695]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="HORAE_CATULLIANAE" id="HORAE_CATULLIANAE"></a>HORÆ CATULLIANÆ.</h2> + +<h3>LETTER TO EUSEBIUS.</h3> + + +<p>You desire, then, my dear Eusebius, to hear more of the Curate's +difficulty. We left him, you remember, with Gratian, who took him by the +arm, and walked off to see what his authority would do to quell the +parochial disturbance. You have seen the general opinion upon the +countenance Gratian would give to delinquents; you will not, therefore, +augur very favourably of this expedition. Loving a little mischief, as +you do, you will, perhaps, be not quite agreeably disappointed. Had +Gratian trusted alone to his character, he would have failed; which +shows that sometimes it is dangerous to have too good a one.</p> + +<p>Not a parishioner but would have looked upon the patronage of Gratian to +the Curate as resulting from the weakness—those who meant to turn it to +compliment would say, the excessive kindness, of his nature. A little +malice interposing, they were by no means disposed, if they loved +Gratian, "to love his dog,"—in the light of which comparison they now +looked upon the Curate. Gratian's sly wit, however, availed more than +his authority. It seems they had not proceeded very far when they met +Prateapace. The Curate having some business in another direction, left +Gratian with the maiden-lady. You can imagine his first advances, +complimenting her upon her fresh morning looks. Then taking her by the +arm, as if for familiar support, transferring his stick to the other +hand, and looking his cajolery inimitably, and with a low voice saying, +"My dear Miss Lydia, what is all this story I hear that you charge the +Curate with?" "Oh, no, not I!" interrupted the maiden; "it is you have +done that. I only know that I heard you reprove him for his behaviour to +some one or other, whom you seriously declared either must be or ought +to be his wife." "My dear <i>young</i> lady," said Gratian, "that is now +quite a mistake of yours:" he then, as he reports, told her what they +had been reading, and that his remarks were upon the book, and the +author of it, and had nothing to do with the Curate. To all which she +nodded her head incredulously, and laughingly said, "Oh, you good, +<i>good</i>-natured man; and pray who may that improper author be?" "Why," +quoth Gratian, "Miss Lydia Prateapace wouldn't, I know, have me +recommend her any <i>improper</i> author." "Oh, no, no!—I don't ask with any +intention to read him, I assure you," she replied. Gratian went on, +"Believe me, he is a very old author, a Roman." "A Roman indeed!" she +quite vociferated—"one of those horrid Papists, I suppose! A Roman is +he? Then the Curate—why should he read Papistical books, and learn such +tricks from them?" It was in vain for Gratian to endeavour to explain. +Miss Prateapace had but one notion of the Romans—that there never was +one that had not kissed the Pope's toe. So here he very wisely took +another tack, and drawing her a little aside, as if he would not have +even the very hedges hear him, and with no little affected caution, +looking about him, he said, in a half whisper—"Now let me, my dear +young lady, tell you a bit of a secret. All this is an idle tale, and is +just as I have told you; but this I tell you, that to my certain +knowledge, the Curate's <i>affections</i>"—laying stress on the word +affections—"are seriously engaged;" at which Miss Lydia stared, and +looked the personification of curiosity. "Engaged is he, did you say?" +"No, <i>he</i> is not engaged," said Gratian, "but I happen to know that his +affections are—" "Then," quoth she, "I suppose he has declared as much +to the object." "Ah—no!—there is the very point—you are quite +mistaken—she has not the slightest suspicion of it." This was scarcely +credible to the lady's notion of love-making, but the earnest manner of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_696" id="Page_696">[Pg 696]</a></span> +Gratian was every thing. "No," said he; "he is a most exemplary +conscientious young man, and so far avoids the making any show of his +feelings, that he affects, I really believe, more indifference towards +that lady than to any other. He tells me that he thinks it would not be +honourable in his present circumstances and position to engage <i>her</i> +affections; but he looks forward, as his prospects are fair." Miss Lydia +was interested—pondered awhile, and then said, "You dear good man, do +tell me who the lady is!" "No," replied Gratian, "I dare not betray a +secret; but be assured, my dear Miss Lydia Prateapace, that if our +Curate marries, he will make his choice not very far from this." "You +don't say so!" cried she: "Really now, who can it be?" "I can only say +one thing more," replied our fox Gratian, "and perhaps that is saying +too much; but—" whispering in her ear—"of all the letters in the +alphabet, her name begins with Lydia." Whereupon he made a start, put +his finger upon his lips, as if he had in his hurry told the secret; and +she started back a pace in another direction, looked in his face to see +if he was in jest; finding there nothing but apparent simplicity, she +looked a little confused, and evidently took the compliment and the +<i>hopes</i> into her own bosom. When she could sufficiently collect her +thoughts, she expressed her sorrow for any mischief she might have done, +unintentionally; and added, that she would do all in her power to set +all things right again. At this point the Curate returned: he addressed +her somewhat distantly, which to her was a sign stronger than +familiarity, upon the power of which she gave him her hand <i>of +encouragement</i>. Gratian took care to leave well alone—let go her arm, +and leaning upon the Curate's wished her good morning, with a gracious +smile about his insidious mouth, to which he put his finger +significantly as if entreating her silence upon the subject of their +conversation. I have told you the particulars of this interview, +Eusebius, as I could gather them from Gratian's narration; and he has a +way of acting what he says, as if he had studied in that school where +the first requisite for an orator is—action; the second—action; the +third—action!</p> + +<p>Our friend Gratian, Eusebius, made no matter of conscience of this +fibbing—did not hesitate—wanted no "ductor dubitantium"—as he told it +to us. He gave, it is true, his limb a smarter tapping; but it was no +twinge of conscience that caused the movement of the stick, and there is +nothing of the Franciscan about our friend. Did he <i>say</i> a word that was +not perfect truth?</p> + +<p>But what was the intention?—did he mean to deceive? But this is not a +question to discuss with you. You will do more than acquit him. So I am +answered, and silent. Gratian's answer was this. In his fabulous mood, +he asked—"If you should see a lion, an open-mouthed lion of the +veritable χασμ' οδοντων breed, traversing a wood, and he +should accost you thus, 'Pray, sir, did you chance to see a man I am +looking after go this way?' would you point out his lurking place, his +path of escape? or would you not, if you knew he went to the right, +direct the lion by all means to continue his pursuit on the left? Then, +sir, which will your worshipful morality prefer, to be the accessary to +the murder, or the principal in the deceit?"</p> + +<p>I must not omit to tell you that a few days ago Gratian and the Curate +spent a pleasant day with the Bishop, who was not a little amused at +their narration of the circumstances that produced the singular +parochial epistle, which his lordship had duly received. The Bishop's +hospitality is well seasoned with conversational ease, and perfect +agreeability, and has besides that</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Seu quid suavius elegantiusve est"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>which our Catullus promises to his friend Fabullus. The Bishop, a ripe +scholar, spoke much and critically of Catullus, and laid most stress +upon the extreme suavity of his measures, especially in the "Acmen +Septimius." There were present two archdeacons and a very agreeable +classical physician. All had at one time or other, they acknowledged, +translated "Vivamus, mea Lesbia, atque amemus." The physician said he +had only satisfied himself with three lines, and yet he thought their +only merit was the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_697" id="Page_697">[Pg 697]</a></span> being line for line. He repeated both the original +and his translation:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Soles occidere et redire possunt:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nobis, quum semel occidit brevis lux,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nox est perpetua una dormienda.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Suns die, but soon their light restore,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">While we, when our brief day is o'er,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sleep one long night to wake no more."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The Curate, with the jealousy of a rival translator, objected to "suns +<i>die</i>," and thought "suns <i>set</i>" would be quite as well and a closer +translation. The Physician assented. The Bishop smiled, and said, "suns +<i>die</i>" was probably a professional lapsus. The Physician replied, that +such would be a very unprofessional lapsus; and Gratian quoted the +passage from Fielding, who says it is an unjust misrepresentation that +"physicians are the friends of death," and instanced the two physicians +who, in the case of the death of Captain Blifil, "dismissed the corpse +with a single fee, but were not so disgusted with the living patient." +At parting, the Bishop took the Curate most kindly by the hand, and +recommended him by all means to cultivate the amiability of +versification.</p> + +<p>After this, Gratian and the Curate had much business in hand, and we did +not meet for some time. Gratian stirred a little in this affair of the +Curate's, and with effect. We did meet, however, and recommenced the</p> + + +<h3>HORÆ CATULLIANÆ.</h3> + +<p>You now see us again in the library—time, after tea. Gratian enjoys his +easy-chair; a small fire—for it is not cold—just musically whispers +among the coals, comfort. Gratian says he has had a busy day of it, and, +though not wearied, is in that happy state of repose to enjoy rest, and +of excitement to enjoy social converse; and after a little, preliminary +chat, asked if there was any thing lately from Catullus.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—Yes. He is returned from his unprofitable travel, and you +seem to be in that state of sensitive quiescence, to feel with him the +pleasures of home. He is now at his own villa, and thus welcomes, and +acknowledges the welcome offered him by his beloved Sirmio.</p> + + +<h4>AD SIRMIONEM PENINSULAM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">My Sirmio, thou the very gem and eye<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of islands and peninsulas, that lie<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In that two-fold dominion Neptune takes<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of the salt sea and sweet translucent lakes!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Oh! with what joy I visit thee again,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Scarce yet believing, how, left far behind,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The tedious Thynian and Bithynian plain,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I see thee, Sirmio, with this peaceful mind.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Oh, what a blessed thing is the sweet quiet,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the tired heart lays down its load of care,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And after foreign toil and sickening riot,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Weary and worn, to feel at last we are<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At our own home—and our own floor to tread,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And lie in peace on the long-wish'd-for bed!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">This, this alone, repays all labours past.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hail to thee, lovely Sirmio! gladly take<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thine own, own master home to thee at last:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And all ye sportive waters of my lake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Laugh out your welcome to my cheerful voice,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And all that laughs at home, with me rejoice.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I well remember this singularly sweet, kind, affectionate +address. It is the best version of "Home is home, be it ever so homely," +I know. You have needlessly repeated <i>own</i>. Why not say, loved master?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—Don't you think the <i>acquiescimus lecto</i> would be better +rendered "sink to rest?" I fancy the Latin expresses the sinking down of +the wearied limbs, or rather, whole person, into the soft and deep +feather bed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_698" id="Page_698">[Pg 698]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius</span>.—I Set it down so, but altered it, thinking the "lie in peace" +was in reality more quiescent than any thing expressing an act—as +sinking is a process <i>in transitu</i>—the result, lying in peace. It has +often been translated, among others, by Leigh Hunt, and that prince of +translators, Elton—though I think I was not satisfied with his +translation of the Sirmio—of the others I do not remember a word.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—Leigh Hunt overdid his work—there is more labour than ease in +the line</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The loosened limbs o'er all the wished-for bed."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Not simple enough for Catullus; neither is this—a rather affected +line—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Laughs every dimple in the cheek of home."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—No, that won't do—it is a conceit. One would imagine it +borrowed or translated from some Italian poet.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—The "loosened limbs o'er all the wished-for bed," strikes me +as rather of the ludicrous, and not unlike the description of himself by +Berni in his fanciful palace, where he ordered a bed, adjoining that of +the French cook's, which was to be large enough to swim in—"Come si fa +nel mare."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Now then, Mr Curate, let us have your version.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span></p> + +<h4> TO THE PENINSULA OF SIRMIO.</h4> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">All hail to thee, delightful Sirmio!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of all peninsulas and isles the gem,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which lake or sea in its fair breast doth show<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With either Neptune's arms encircling them.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">What joy to find that Thynia, and that plain<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bithynian gone, and see thee safe again!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Charming it is to rest from care and cumber,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the mind throws its burden, and we come<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wearied with pains of foreign travel home,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And in the bed so longed for sink to slumber.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">This pays for all the toil, this quiet after—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Joy, my sweet Sirmio, for thy master's sake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Make merry, frolic wavelets of my lake—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Laugh on me, all ye stores of home-bred laughter.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I don't like "the mind <i>throws</i> its burden:" lays it down is +better—there is more weariness in it. You must alter that expression, +or we see the mind like the "iniquæ mentis ascellus," dropping back its +ears, and <i>throwing</i> its not agreeable and easy-sitting rider. Why not—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"When the mind lays its burden down, to come?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But I see you have both of you translated away from the Latin the <i>Lydiæ +undæ</i>. How comes it so?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—The reasons given for the word meaning Lydian seem to be +insufficient; because it is said the Benacus resembles the Lydian rivers +Hermus and Pactolus in having gold; or because the Benacus was in the +district of the Thusci, who came from the Lydians. I adopted a +conjecture once thrown out—and I think it was by the most accomplished +scholar, W. S. Landor, that <i>Lydiæ</i> is the adjective of the word +<i>Ludius—ludiæ undæ</i>, or <i>Lydiæ undæ</i>, the same thing, for that ludius +is, as the dictionary tells us, "a Lydis, qui erant optimi saltatores." +If so, <i>Lydiæ</i> would mean the sportive, or "dancing waters of the lake."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—I took this hint from Aquilius, though I do not remember from +whom the suggestion came. I would venture from the last line—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Ridete quidquid est domi cachinnorum—"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>a remark upon a passage, the celebrated expression in the <i>Prometheus</i> +of Æschylus, the ανηριθμον γελασμα. Some call it "countless +dimples." Now is it not possible Catullus may have thought of this, and +as it were translated it by <i>quidquid est cachinnorum</i>? The question +then would be, is it meant to speak to the ear or the eye? Is it of +sound or vision? I am inclined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_699" id="Page_699">[Pg 699]</a></span> to think it is the sound, the +communicative laughter of the many waves. "Dimple" is too little for the +gigantic conception of Æschylus, but the laughter of the multitudinous +ocean-waves is more after his genius. No one could translate <i>cachinnus</i> +"a dimple." If, therefore, Catullus had in his mind the Greek passage, +it shows his idea of the ανηριθμον γελασμα.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I have often admired how that can be <i>very</i> beautiful which is +of uncertain meaning. Is it that either construction conveys distinct +thought—clear idea? I confess, I prefer the sound. What comes next?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—Missing one or two, we take up his "Request to his friend +Cæcilius to come to him to Verona"—who, it seems, was a native of that +place, and fellow townsman, as well as most dear friend of Catullus.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—Both poets—both kind-hearted; in fact, "The two gentlemen of +Verona."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Well, that is saying something for Latin poets. Let us have +your version, Curate.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span></p> + +<h4>INVITATION TO CÆCILIUS.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Papyrus, to Cæcilius tell<br /></span> +<span class="i0">(A touching bard, my friend as well)<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That to Verona he must come,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where his Catullus is at home,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And new-built Comu's walls forsake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And that sweet shore of Laris Lake.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A friend of mine and his has brought<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To light some passages of thought,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which he must hear. So if he will<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Be thriving and improving still,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His speed will swallow up the distance,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Although with amorous resistance,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And both arms clinging round his neck,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That lovely maid his progress check,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With lips a thousand times that say<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Oh, do not, do not go away!"<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I mean that maid who, Fame—not I—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Asserts for love of him would die;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For fire consumes her heart and head,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Since first the opening lines she read<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of Cybele the God's great queen.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Maid, learned as the Sapphic muse,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I cannot sympathy refuse;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For not amiss (the book I've seen)<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Begins the tale, "The Mighty Queen."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—I protest against "so if he will be thriving and improving +still." That is the Curate's interpolation. The fact is, he must have +rhymed a passage from his last sermon; and it has somehow or other +slipped into his Catullus.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—No authority! What, then, is meant by "Quare si sapiet?"</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—Simply, if he would know the secret—the "cogitationes."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I am inclined to agree with you. Now, Aquilius, we will listen +to your version.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Hasten, papyrus! greet you well<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That tender poet, my sweet friend<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Cæcilius—speedily I send,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As speedily my message tell:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That he should for Verona make<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All haste—and quit his Larian Lake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And Novum Comum—for I would<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Some certain thoughts he understood<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And purposes, that now possess<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A friend of mine; and his no less.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_700" id="Page_700">[Pg 700]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">And if he takes me rightly, say<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His coming will devour the way,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though that fair girl should bid him stay,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And round his neck her arms should throw,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And cry, Oh, do not, do not go!—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That girl, who, if the truth be told,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">E'en in her heart of hearts doth hold<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And cherish such sweet love—since he<br /></span> +<span class="i0">First read to her of Cybele,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Great Queen of Dindymus" the tale<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Begun. Oh, then she did inhale<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The living breath of love, whose heat<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Into her very life doth eat.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thy passion I can well excuse,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fair maid! more learn'd than the tenth muse,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Lesbian maid—nor couldst thou fail<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To find for love an ample plea,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In that so nobly open'd tale<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of the great Goddess Cybele.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—What's all this?—the "tenth muse!" where is she in the Latin?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—<i>Sapphicâ musâ</i>, Doctor. That is Sappho, is it not? and pray +was Sappho one of the <i>nine</i> muses? No; then of course she was the +<i>tenth</i>—and was not she "the Lesbian maid?"</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—Well, I admit it—you have vindicated your muse fairly, and I +will not pronounce against her, though tempted by an apt quotation from +the mouth of Bacchus, in the <i>Frogs</i> of Aristophanes.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Αυτη ποθ' η Μουσ' ουκ ελεσβιαζεν ου."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>For your muse is certainly a Lesbian; but you have omitted "misellæ," +which shows that the passion was not returned.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I don't see that; for she throws her arms about his neck. But +neither of you have well spoken the "millies euntem revocet," the +calling him back after departure, and that is very good too. I see the +note upon <i>Sapphicâ Musâ</i>, speaks of various interpretations to the +passage; but adopts this—that the maiden loving Cæcilius has more sense +(is that <i>doctior</i>? I doubt) than Sappho, who loved a youth too stupid +ever to write a line; but this maid did not love till she had read the +commencement of his poem. I don't see the necessity for thinking the +passion hopeless either, because of the comparison with Sappho. Few +Roman maidens took the Leucadian leap.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—It is very odd, and might first appear a mark of their good +manners—that the Romans never mention "old maids." I fear there was +another cause. I suppose the omission may be accounted for by the state +of society, which was not favourable to their existence at all; for then +a man could put away his wife at any moment, and for any plea, most +women must have managed to get a husband for a long or a short time.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—The only ancient old maids were the Fates and Furies—of the +latter, the burden of the song was—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Oh no, we never mention them,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Their names are never heard!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Come back to your duty: we are wandering, and leaving Catullus +behind. What are we to have now?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—An attack upon one Egnatius, who, having white teeth, took +care to show them upon all occasions. He was not, however, celebrated +for his tooth-powder. He is a fair mark for the wit of our author. The +arrow of his satire was occasionally keen enough and free to fly.</p> + +<h4>IN EGNATIUM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Egnatius's teeth are very white,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And therefore is he ever grinning:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_701" id="Page_701">[Pg 701]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">Let pleaders in the court excite<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All hearts to weep—from the beginning<br /></span> +<span class="i0">E'en to the end he laughs. The while<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The mother on the funeral bier,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sheds o'er her only son the tear,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Alone Egnatius seems to smile,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Then opes his mouth from ear to ear:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where'er he is, whatever doing,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He laughs and grins. The thing in fact is<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A tasteless, foolish, silly practice,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Egnatius, and well worth eschewing.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Spare all this risible exertion,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And were you Roman or Tiburtian,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sabine, Lanuvian, fat Etruscan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or porcine Umbrian with rare show<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of tusks—columnar—order Tuscan:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or born the other side the Po,}<br /></span> +<span class="i0">(And my compatriot, therefore know,)}<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where folk are civilised I trow,}<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And wash their teeth with water cleanly—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Pure water such as folk might quaff—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I would entreat you still—don't laugh.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">You look so sillily, so meanly,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As if you were but witted half.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet being but a Celtiberian,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Holding the custom of your nation,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Using that lotion called Hesperian;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The more you grin, folk say, forsooth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">What pity 'tis the whitest tooth<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Should have the foulest application!<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—I did not translate—and our host will think one translation +quite enough.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Go on then to the next. What are we to have?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—His address to his farm. Authors were happy in those days to +have their landed estate. Horace always speaks of his with delight; so +does Catullus, as we have seen, of his Sirmio. This farm was, it should +seem, like Horace's, among the Sabine hills.</p> + +<h4>TO MY FARM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">My farm! which those who wish to please<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Thy master's heart, Tiburtian call;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But they who call thee Sabine, these<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Respect his feelings not at all:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And wishing more to tease and fret,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Will wager thou art Sabine yet—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">How well it pleased me to retreat<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To thy suburban country-seat;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where I sent summarily off<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That plaguy pulmonary cough;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which, half-deserved, my stomach gave<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Just for a hint no more to crave<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Luxurious living. I had hoped<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With a good dinner to have coped<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At Sextius' table; when he read<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A poisonous speech might strike one dead,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All gall and venom, to refute<br /></span> +<span class="i0">One Attius in a certain suit.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Since when, a cold cough and catarrh<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Against my battered frame made war;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_702" id="Page_702">[Pg 702]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">Until I came in thee to settle,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And cured it with repose and nettle.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So, now I'm well, I thank thee, farm!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And that I got so little harm,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From such great fault. I may be pardon'd<br /></span> +<span class="i0">If to this pitch my heart is harden'd:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To pray, when Sextius reads again<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Things so abhorr'd of gods and men,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That that my cough and cold catarrh<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Not mine but Sextius' health might mar—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Who never sends me invitation<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But for such wretched recitation.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—A charitable wish this of our good Catullus! But these +heathens knew little of "do as you would be done by." One of the neatest +wishes of this kind is in a Greek epigram. I can't remember word for +word the Greek, so I give the translation:—"Castor and Pollux, who +dwell in beauteous Lacedemon, by the sweet-flowing river Eurotas, if +ever I wish evil to my friend, may it light upon me; but if ever he +wishes evil to me, may he have twice as much."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—In a note on <i>villæ</i>, I see the derivation of that word +given, <i>quasi vehilla</i>, because there the fruits of the farm were +carried; so that the original idea of a villa was quite another thing +from the modern suburban construction. Architects, when they call these +suburban edifices villas, might as well remember how inappropriate is +the term. But here you have my version of this address to his farm:—</p> + +<h4>AD FUNDUM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">My Farm, or Sabine or Tiburtian,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">(What name I care not we confab in,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though they who hold me in aversion,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Persist and wager you are Sabine,)<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">In your suburban sweet recesses<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of that vile cough I timely rid me,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Merited well, for those excesses<br /></span> +<span class="i2">My stomach failed not to forbid me,<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">When I with Sextius was convivial,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Who feasting read me his invective,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Vilest, 'gainst Attius his rival,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">All venom—and, alas! effective.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">For surely 'twas that poison seized me,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">A chill—a heat—a cough then shook me<br /></span> +<span class="i0">E'en to my vitals—and so teazed me,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">That to thy bosom I betook me.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Thanks, my good farm! my fault you pardon'd,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And not revenged. We've much to settle<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On score of thanks: my chest you harden'd,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And healed with basil-root and nettle.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">But from henceforth, if I such vicious<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Invectives read, though Sextius pen 'em,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Who but invites me with malicious<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Intent to kill me with their venom—<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">If e'er I yield to his endeavour,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Expose me to his scrip infectious—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I call down ague, cold, and fever,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Oh! fall ye not on me,—but Sextius.<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_703" id="Page_703">[Pg 703]</a></span></div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I see the next is that one which has been not unfrequently +translated and imitated. Is there not one by Cowley,—if I remember, +much lengthened?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—It can scarcely be called a translation. The Latin measure is +certainly here very sweet and tender.</p> + +<h4>DE ACME ET SEPTIMIO.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Septimius, to his bosom pressing<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His Acme, said, "I love thee, Acme—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All my life-long will love thee, Acme!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor day shall come to love thee less in.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or should it come, like common lover,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In such poor love I love thee only;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">May Libyan lion dun discover,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or torrid India's beast attack me,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wandering forlorn from thee, and lonely<br /></span> +<span class="i2">On desert shore."—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He said: Love, as before,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Upon the left hand aptly sneezed.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The omen showed that he was pleased<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To give his blessing.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Then gentle Acme, softly turning<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Upon the breast of her Septimius,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And unto his her face upraising,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And looking in his eyes so burning,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As if inebriate with gazing;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With that her rich red mouth she kissed them,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And said,—"My love, dear, dear Septimius!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Oh, let us serve our master duly—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Our master Love, as now caressing;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For never yet have Love so blessed them<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As now my thoughts he blesseth truly,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Even to my heart of hearts, Septimius,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The inmost core."<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She said: and, as before,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Love on the left hand aptly sneezed.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The omen showed that he was pleased<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To give his blessing.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">They loved—were loved: this sweet beginning<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Omen'd their future bright condition.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Offer all Asia to Septimius—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Add Britain—put in competition<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With Acme—wretchedly abstemious<br /></span> +<span class="i0">They'd call him of your gifts, Ambition.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The only province worth his winning<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Is Acme: Acme's faithful bosom<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Knows nought on earth but her Septimius.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ripe was the fruit, as fair the blossom<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of this their mutual love, and glowing;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And all admired its freshness growing.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Was never pair so fond and loving!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And Venus' self looked on approving.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—Are you correct in your translation "Love, as before?" Is it +not that, as before he sneezed on the left, now he sneezes on the right +hand,—<i>was</i> unfavourable—<i>is</i> now propitious?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—I see in the note that the passage bears either construction. +There is also authority given; for what to us is the left hand, to the +gods is the right. Now, Curate, for your Acme and Septimius.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_704" id="Page_704">[Pg 704]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—</p> + +<h4>OF SEPTIMIUS AND ACME.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Acme to Septimius' breast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Darling of his heart, was prest—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Acme mine!" then said the youth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"If I love thee not in truth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">If I shall not love thee ever<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As a lover doated never,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">May I in some lonely place,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Scorch'd by Ind's or Libya's sun,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Meet a lion's tawny face;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">All defenceless, one to one."—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Love, who heard it in his flight,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To the truth his witness bore,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sneezing quickly to the right—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">(To the left he sneezed before.)<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Acme then her head reflecting,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Kiss'd her sweet youth's ebriate eyes,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With her rosy lips connecting<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Looks that glistened with replies.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Thus, my life, my Septimillus!<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Serve we Love, our only master:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">One warm love-flood seems to thrill us,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Throbs it not in me the faster?"—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Love, who heard it in his flight,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To the truth his witness bore,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sneezing quickly to the right—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">(To the left he sneezed before.)<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Thus with omens all-approving,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Each and both are loved and loving.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Poor Septimius with his Acme,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Cares not to whose lot may fall<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Syria's glory—wealthy province!—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Or both Britains great and small.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Acme, faithful and unfeigning,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Gives, creates, enjoys all pleasure,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With her dear Septimius reigning.—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Oh! was ever earthly treasure<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Greater to man's lot pertaining?<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Blessed pair!—thus, without measure,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Venus' choicest gifts attaining.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—You have a little run riot, good Master Curate; and run out of +your rhyming course too, I see—for you don't mean "province" to rhyme +to "Acme."—I see the next is, On Approach of Spring—with that +beautiful line, "Jam ver egelidos refert tepores." I wish to see how you +would have translated that refreshing and cool warmth of +expression—almost a contradiction in terms—the season when we inhale +the heavenly air with the chill off—like hot tea thrown into a glass of +spring-cold water, and drank off immediately.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—I gave it up in despair, and the Curate too has omitted it. +There are two other perhaps untranslatable lines in this short piece:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Jam mens prætrepidans avet vagari;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Jam læti studio pedes vigescunt."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>After two other little pieces, we come to a few lines to no less a +personage than Marcus Tullius Cicero, who had probably in some cause +gratuitously assisted the poet with his eloquence; for to sue <i>in formâ +poetæ</i>, was, perhaps, pretty much the same as in <i>formâ pauperis</i>. It +seems that "omnium patronus" was a flattering title on other occasions, +and by other persons bestowed upon Cicero, as well as by our poet here. +One would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_705" id="Page_705">[Pg 705]</a></span> almost think the orator had served the poet an ill turn, and +that this superlative praise was but irony; for he not only calls +Tullius the most eloquent of men, but as much the best of patrons, as +he, Catullus, is the worst of poets. This surely must be a mock +humility. Is it a satire in disguise, and meaning the reverse? After +this, follows a little piece to his friend Cornellus Licinius Calvus, +with whom he had passed a pleasant and too exciting day—but let him +tell his own story. Shall I repeat?</p> + +<h4>AD LICINIUM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">My dear Licinius, yesterday<br /></span> +<span class="i0">We sported in our pleasant way;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Tablets in hand—and at our leisure,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In verse as various as the measure,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Scribbling between our wine and laughter.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But when we parted, mark the after<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Vexation;—conquered, and hard hit<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By your all-overpowering wit,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I could not eat—nor yet would Sleep<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His softly-soothing fingers keep<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Upon my weary lids: all night}<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I toss'd, I turned from left to right}<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Impatient for the morning light,}<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That I might talk with you, and be<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Again in your society.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But when my limbs, as 'twere half dead,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Were lying on my restless bed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I made these lines—which, my good friend,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That you may know my pains, I send.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Now, though so free, so bold to dare,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So apt to scoff—good sir, beware<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Lest with the eye of your disdain<br /></span> +<span class="i0">You view these lines, my vow, my pain.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Beware of Nemesis, beware!—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For Vengeance, should I cry aloud—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She hears—and punishes the proud.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Those last lines are very grave: are they not too much so for +the intended play of this mock anger? Let us have your version, Master +Curate.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—I am sure you think one version quite enough. I did not +translate it; and believe we must now turn over many pages, and then I +have little more to offer.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—(Turning over the leaves of Catullus.) Here I see is that +beautiful passage in his "Carmen Nuptiale."</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Ut flos in septis secretus nascitur hortis."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—Which did not escape the tasteful, though bold Ariosto. I +have made a weak attempt to translate the passage; and as it stands in +the middle of a long piece, I have taken it out as a sonnet. I will read +it:—</p> + +<h4>UT FLOS IN SEPTIS, &C.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">As in enclosure of chaste garden ground,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The floweret grows—where nor unseemly tread<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of flocks or ploughshares bruise its tender head—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">There soft airs soothe it with their gentle sound;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Suns give it strength, and nurturing showers abound,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And raise its tall stem from its sheltered bed;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And many a youth and maiden, passion-led,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With longing eyes admiring walk around:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_706" id="Page_706">[Pg 706]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">Pluck'd from the stem that its pure grace supplied,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Nor youths nor maidens love it as before.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So the sweet maiden, in the queenly pride<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of her chaste beauty, many hearts adore;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But that her virgin charter laid aside,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Who lov'd, who cherish'd, cherish, love no more.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—I remember Ariosto's translation—for translation it is; and +though you know it, I will repeat it, and, by Gratian's favour, let it +pass for my version. For once, borrowed plumes,—and I shall not be the +worse bird—though birds of richer plumage have no song.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"La verginella è simile alla rosa,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Chi'n bel giardin su la nativa spina,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Mentre sola, e sicura si riposa,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Ne gregge, ne pastor sele avvicina;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">L'aura soave, e l'alba rugidosa<br /></span> +<span class="i0">L'acqua, la terra al suo favor s'inch a:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Giovani vaghi, e donne innamorate,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Amano averne e seni, e tempre ornate.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ma non si tosto dal materno stelo,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Remossa viene, e dal suo ceppo verde,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Che, quanto avea dagli uomini, e dal cielo,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Favor, grazia, ebellezza, tutto perde."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Let us examine the alterations made by one genius, in +transferring to his own language the ideas of another genius of another +country. Catullus says "the floweret,"—<i>flosculus</i>: Ariosto +particularises the rose,—the <i>bel giardin</i>, "the beautiful garden," +stands for <i>septis in hortis</i>, the enclosed. Then he has given the idea +of <i>secretus</i>, which is certainly "separated," "set apart," by the words +<i>sola e sicura</i>, "alone and safe"—is it so good? but he gives that a +grace, a beauty, the original perhaps has not, <i>riposa</i>—the floweret +enjoys its secret repose. The cutting down the flower by the plough was +unnecessary, after telling us of the enclosure; we scarcely like to be +brought suddenly into the ploughed field. Here Ariosto is better—"nor +shepherd nor flock come near it." That enough confirms the idea of its +being fenced off, and they wander in their idleness, or, but for the +fence, might have reached it; the plough and the team are a heavy +apparatus, and would be a most unexpected intrusion,—so I like the +Italian here better. Then, <i>su la nativa spina</i> is good: you see the +beautiful creature on its native stem or thorn. Then for the enumeration +of the airs, the sun, and the shower, the Italian, in his beautiful +language, softens the very air, and gives it a sweetness, <i>l'aura +soave</i>, and ushers in "the dewy morn:" then, expanding to the glory of +the full reverence of nature to this emblem of purity, he makes all bend +and bow before it, as before the very queen of the earth. Here he +surpasses his original. Then he gives you the object of the wishes of +the youths and maidens, the <i>multi pueri multæ optaveræ puellæ</i>. They +desire to place it in their bosoms or round their temples: and is not +the lovingness of the youths and maidens a good addition? The <i>giovani +vaghi e donne innamorate</i>. Both are admirable—but I incline to Ariosto.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—And do you think the Latin poet the original? You forget how +little originality the Latin authors can claim. This of Catullus is a +translation—a free one, it is true—of perhaps a still more beautiful +passage in Euripides. Reach the book: you will find it in that very +singular play the Hippolytus. Ay, here it is. He offers the garland to +the virgin goddess Artemis—(line 73)</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Σοι τονδε πλεκτον στεφανον εξ ακηρατου<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Λειμωνος ω δεσποινα, κοσμησας φερω,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ενθ'ουτε τοιμην αξιοι φερβειν βοτα<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ουτ' ηλθε ρω σιδηρος αλλ' ακηρατον<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Μελισσα λειμων' ηρινον διερχεται<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Αιδως δε ποταμιαισι κηπευει δροσοις.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ὁσοις διδακτον μηδεν, αλλ' εν τη φυσει<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Το σωφρονειν ειληχεν ες τα πανθ' ὁμως,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Τουτος δρεπεσθαι τοις κακοισι, δ' ου θεμις."<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_707" id="Page_707">[Pg 707]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>"I bring thee, O mistress, this woven crown, beautifully made up of +flowers of the pure untouched meadow—where never shepherd thinks it +fitting to feed his flock, nor the sickle comes; but the bee ever passes +over the pure meadow breathing of spring, and modesty waters it as a +garden with the river-dews. To them who have, untaught, in their nature +the gift of chastity, to these only it is at all times an allowed +sanctity to cut these flowers, but not to the evil-minded."</p> + +<p>You cannot doubt that the passage in Catullus is taken from the +Greek—which is of a higher sentiment in the conclusion, and is enriched +beyond the Latin by the bee, and above all by the personification of +Modesty tending and watering the garden, or rather these especial +flowers, with the river-dews.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—How far more pure is the sentiment, and more quiet the imagery, +in the Greek! The Greeks were the great originators of glorious thought +and beautiful diction.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Let us now to Catullus. What have we next?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—Here is a tender little piece, to his friend Ortalus. I see +it has an omission: this edition does not supply it; I only take what I +see. It seems Ortalus had requested him to send him his translation from +Callimachus, the "Coma Berenices," which for some time, through grief +for the death of his brother, he had failed to do. He now sends the +poem.</p> + + +<h4>AD ORTALUM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Though care, that unto me sore grief hath brought,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Calls me from converse with the sacred Nine,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Nor can my heart incline<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To bring to any end inspired thought;—<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">(For now the wave of the Lethæan lake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">How recent hath it bathed in Death's dark vale<br /></span> +<span class="i2">A brother's feet so pale;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And I can only sorrow for his sake.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The Trojan land on the Rhœtean shore<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hath hidden him for ever from these eyes,—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And I with glad surprise,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And brother's love, shall welcome thee no more.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Loved more than life, dear brother! what can I<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But love thee still, and mourn for thee full long<br /></span> +<span class="i2">In a funereal song,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In secret to assuage my grief thereby?<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">As amid many boughs all leaf-array'd<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Danlian bird, the nightingale, out-poured,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">When Itys she deplored,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her mellow sorrows in the thickest shade:)<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Yet, Ortalus, 'mid tears that flow so fast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The work of your Battiades I send,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Lest you should deem, dear friend,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Your wishes to the winds are idly cast,<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">And from my mind escaped, all unaware,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As falls the fruit, love's furtive gift, unbid,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">In virgin bosom hid,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When she, forgetful of its lying there,<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Would suddenly arise, and run to greet<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The coming of her mother, from her vest<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And her now loosen'd breast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The shameless apple rolls before her feet.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">And she, poor maid! abashed, and in the hush<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of shame, before her mother cannot speak,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">While all her virgin cheek<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Betrays her secret in the conscious blush.<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_708" id="Page_708">[Pg 708]</a></span></div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—It is very tender—the last image is delicately beautiful. I +did not translate it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Pretty as the passage of the maiden's disaster in dropping the +lover's gift—and that, too, be it observed, in the hurry of her +tenderness, which increases the beauty, or rather accomplishes it—yet +is it not abrupt in a piece where there is the expression of so much +grief? Catullus was an affectionate man, more especially affectionate +brother; on other occasions, if I remember rightly, he deplores this +brother's loss. Now, Master Curate, what do you offer us?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—Not now a verse translation, but an observation on a little +piece of raillery, in which Catullus quizzes one Arrius for his +aspirating; and, I mean it not as a pun, exasperating, though it should +seem that his friends were not a little exasperated at his bad +pronunciation. Do we inherit from the Romans this, our (Cockneyism, I +was going to say, but it is too general to allow of such a limit,) +vulgarity of speech? "Where," says Catullus, "Arrius meant to say +commoda, he uttered it as c<i>h</i>ommoda, and <i>h</i>insidias for insidias, and +never thought he spoke remarkably well unless he laid great stress upon +the aspirate, calling it with emphasis <i>h</i>insidias. I believe his +mother, his uncle, his maternal grandfather and grandmother all spoke in +the same way. When the man went into Syria, all ears had a little rest, +and heard those words pronounced without this emphatic aspirate, and +began to entertain no fears respecting the use of the words; when on a +sudden they hear—that after Arrius had gone thither, the Ionian seas +were no longer Ionian, but Hionian." This is curious. As the Romans had +possession here more than four hundred years, did they leave us this +legacy?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius</span>—I will, then, give you versions of the two which immediately +follow.</p> + +<h4>DE AMORE SUO.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">I love and hate. You ask me how 'tis so.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Small is the reason which I have to show:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I feel it to my cost—'tis all I know.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Then follows a compliment, by comparison, to his Lesbia.</p> + +<h4>DE QUINTIA ET LESBIA.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Many think Quintia beautiful: she's tall,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And fair, and straight. I know, I grant it all,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When each particular beauty I recall;<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">But I deny—when these are uncombined<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To form a whole of beauty—and I find<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So large a person with so small a mind.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">But Lesbia's perfect person is all soul,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Compact in beauty—as if grace she stole<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From all the rest, and made herself one perfect whole.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—This is compliment enough as far as comparison goes—but he +pays her a much greater shortly after: for he loves her in their +greatest quarrels.</p> + +<h4>OF LESBIA.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Lesbia mi dicit semper male."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Lesbia's always speaking ill<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of me—her tongue is never still:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet may I die, but 'gainst her will,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">She loves me, spite of her detraction.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Why think I so? Because I blame<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her ways, abuse her just the same:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet howsoe'er I name her name,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">I still love Lesbia to distraction.<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_709" id="Page_709">[Pg 709]</a></span></div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Perhaps the constancy was more to the credit of Lesbia than +Catullus. Now then, Aquilius.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—</p> + +<h4>DE LESBIA.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Lesbia speaketh ill of me<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Ever—nought it moves me:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Say she what she will of me,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Yet I know she loves me.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Why? Because in words of hate,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">I am far before her;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet no jot of love abate,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Rather I adore her.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—I don't like "I am far before her." We say, "I am not behind" +in hate or love—I doubt "before."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—Easily mended—thus then,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Why? Because in words of hate<br /></span> +<span class="i2">I go far beyond her,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet no jot of love abate—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But still grow the fonder.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gratian.</span>—Probatum est.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—The Curate is too quick upon me. We must go back: he has left +out "De Inconstantia Feminei Amoris."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curate.</span>—True. Here is my version. Not being a happy subject, I passed +over it.</p> + +<h4>OF WOMAN'S INCONSTANCY.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">My pretty she will none but me<br /></span> +<span class="i2">For husband, though were Jove, her wooer.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So tells she me: but what a she<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Says to her lover and pursuer,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Might well be written on the wind,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or stream that leaves no track behind.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—I object to "pretty she," for <i>mulier</i>. I think, however, +that <i>mulier</i> here is a word of contempt. I make it out thus:</p> + +<h4>DE INCONSTANTIA FEMINEI AMORIS.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">She says—the woman says—she none would wed<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But me, though Jove came suitor to her bed;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">She says—but, oh! what woman says—so fair,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And smooth to doting man, is writ on air,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And on the running stream that changeth every where.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Aquilius.</span>—We have seen much of our friend Catullus as a loving poet, +let us end by showing him to have been a good hater. The following is no +bad specimen of his powers in this line:—</p> + +<h4>IN COMINIUM.</h4> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">If you, Cominius, old, defiled<br /></span> +<span class="i2">With every vice, contemn'd, and hoary,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From your vile life were once exiled,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Your carcass beasts would mar—grim, wild.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Vultures that tongue, defamatory<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of all the gentle, good, and mild;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And with those eyes, that all detest,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Pluck'd from their hateful sockets gory,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Crows cram their maws, or feed their nest,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And hungry wolves devour the rest!<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>It was now time, Eusebius, to conclude for the night, and, indeed, to +put our Catullus upon his shelf again. Before separating, we reminded +Gratian that he was the arbiter, and must make his award. "I remember +well,"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_710" id="Page_710">[Pg 710]</a></span> said he; "and you, Aquilius, made, I think, this my baculus the +staff of office. A good umpire might, not very improperly, give the +stick to you both, breaking it equally, "secundum artem baculinam." But +it is a good, useful staff to me; we have had some rubs together, and I +won't part with it. True, it has not unfrequently rubbed my pigs' backs, +and shall again. But <i>the</i> pig Aquilius has made his acquaintance with, +has grunted out all his happy days; and, to do him all honour, I have +sacrificed him upon this occasion, to appease the manes of the Latin +poet in his anger at your bad translations. But for yourselves, I have +still something to award. My pig has two cheeks—there is one for each, +and you shall have them put before you at breakfast to-morrow morning; +and thus, I think, you will agree with me that I have duly countenanced +you both. And I hope my pig will have both sharpened your appetites and +your wit, 'sus Minervam.' Good-night!</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">'To-morrow to fresh fields and turnips new.'"<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<h3>POSTSCRIPT.</h3> + +<p>I here send you, Eusebius, the last of our Horæ Catullianæ, which has +been lying by a week or more. This little delay enables me to wind up +the Curate's affair to your satisfaction. Our friend Gratian gave +verbally the Bishop's reply to Mathew Miffins, who, seeing himself +deserted by his principal witness and informer, Prateapace, was not +sorry to veer round with the weather-cock, and was obsequiously civil. +It was characteristic of our friend Gratian, that he should settle it as +he did with that huckster. Going through, as it is called, the main +street, I saw him engaged with Miffins, in his shop, and went in. He was +talking somewhat familiarly with the man—of all subjects, on what do +you suppose?—on fishing. Gratian had been a great fisherman in his day, +as his rheumatic pains can now testify. As he afterwards told me, +fearing he might have given the Bishop's message rather sharply, and not +liking to pain the man, he turned off the subject, and talked of +fishing, to which he knew Miffins was addicted; and so it ended by +Gratian's obtaining his good-will for ever, for he sent him some choice +hackles. Prateapace and Gadabout have returned to the church, whereupon +the Rev. the cow-doctor has stirred up the wrath of the chapel by a very +strong discourse upon backsliding. A poor woman spoke of it as very +affecting, adding, "Some loves 'sons of consolation,' but I loves 'sons +of thunder.'" Doubtless there was lightning too; and there is of that +vivid kind which bewilders and leaves all darker than before. The Curate +<i>has</i> found bouquets in the vestry and the desk, and has been in danger +of becoming "a popular."</p> + +<p>A subscription has actually been set on foot, by Nicholas Sandwell, at +the instigation, it is said, of certain ladies, and even encouraged by +Miffins, to purchase a coffee-pot and tea-spoons for the Curate; but an +event a few days ago has put an end to the affair, and given rather a +new turn to the parochial feelings. This event is of such moment, that I +ought, perhaps, to have told you of it at first—but I should have +spoiled my romance, my novel—and what is any writing without a tale in +it worth now-a-days? The Curate, then, is actually married—even since +the termination of the Horæ Catullianæ.</p> + +<p>Miss Lydia, ("alas, false man!" sighed some one,) of the family at +Ashford, is the happy bride. The Curate had unexpectedly come into a +very decent independence; and is, and will be for ever after, according +to the usual receipt, happy.</p> + +<p>Since this event, the bouquets have ceased to be laid in the vestry and +the desk. Lydia Prateapace has been heard to say she should not wonder +if all was true after all, and affects to be glad, for propriety's sake, +that they <i>are</i> married. Gadabout runs every where repeating what +Prateapace said; and Brazenstare looks audacious indifference, and once +stared in the Curate's face and asked him how many Misses Lydia there +might be of his acquaintance. My dear Eusebius,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"So goes the world, and such the Play of Life.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">This loves to make, and t'other mends a strife;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Old fools write rhymes—the Curate takes a wife."<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<p class="right">Yours ever, <span class="smcap">Aquilius</span>.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_711" id="Page_711">[Pg 711]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="PROSPER_MERIMEE" id="PROSPER_MERIMEE"></a>PROSPER MÉRIMÉE.</h2> + + +<p>Rarely, in these days of profuse and unscrupulous scribbling, do we find +an author giving the essence, not a dilution, of his wit, learning, and +imagination, dispensing his mental stores with frugal caution, instead +of lavishing them with reckless prodigality. Such a one, when met with, +should be made much of, as a model for sinners in a contrary sense, and +as a bird of precious plumage. Of that feather is Monsieur Prosper +Mérimée. He plays with literature, rather than professes it; it is his +recreation, not his trade; at long intervals and for a brief space, he +turns from more serious pursuits to coquet with the Muse, not frankly to +embrace her. Willing though she be, he will not take her for a lawful +spouse and constant companion, but courts her <i>par amours</i>. The +offspring of these moments of dalliance are buxom and <i>debonair</i>, of +various but comely aspect. In two-and-twenty years he has written less +than the average annual produce of many of his literary countrymen. In +several paths of literature, he has essayed his steps and made good a +footing; in not one has he continuously persevered, but, although +cheered by applause, has quickly struck into another track, which, in +its turn, has been capriciously deserted. His "Studies of Roman history" +give him an honourable claim to the title of historian; his "Notes of +Archæological Rambles" are greatly esteemed; he has written plays; and +his prose fictions, whether middle-age romance or novel of modern +society, rank with the best of their class. He began his career with a +mystification. His first work greatly puzzled the critics. It professed +to be a translation of certain comedies, written by a Spanish actress, +whose fictitious biography was prefixed and signed by Joseph L'Estrange, +officer in the Swiss regiment of Watteville. This imaginary personage +had made acquaintance with Clara Gazul in garrison at Gibraltar. Nothing +was neglected that might perfect the delusion and give success to the +cheat; fragments of old Spanish authors were prefixed to each play, +showing familiarity with the literature of the country; the style, tone, +and allusions were thoroughly Spanish; and, through the French dress, +the Castilian idiom seemed here and there to peep forth, confirming the +notion of a translation. Clara was an Andalusian, half gipsy, half Moor, +skilled in guitars and castanets, saynetes and boleros. L'Estrange makes +her narrate her own origin.</p> + +<p>"'I was born,' she told us, 'under an orange-tree, by the roadside, not +far from Motril, in the kingdom of Granada. My mother was a +fortune-teller, and I followed her, or was carried on her back, till the +age of five years. Then she took me to the house of a canon of Granada, +the licentiate Gil Vargas, who received us with every sign of joy. +Salute your uncle, said my mother. I saluted him. She embraced me, and +departed. I have never seen her since.' And to stop our questions, Doña +Clara took her guitar and sang the gipsy song, <i>Cuando me pariò mi +madre, la gitana</i>."</p> + +<p>Biography and comedies were so skillfully got up, the deception was so +well combined, that the reviewers were put entirely on a wrong scent. +Two years later, M. Mérimée was guilty of another harmless literary +swindle, entitled La Guzla, a selection of Illyrian poems, said to be +collected in Bosnia, Dalmatia, &c., but whose real origin could be +traced no further than to his own imagination. Although the name was a +manifest anagram of Gazul, the public were gulled. The deceit was first +unmasked in Germany, we believe, by Goethe, to whom the secret had been +betrayed. Thenceforward the young author was content to publish under +his own name works of which he certainly had no reason to be ashamed. +One of the earliest of these was, "La Jacquerie"—a sort of long +melodrama, or series of scenes, illustrating feudal aggressions and +cruelties in France,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_712" id="Page_712">[Pg 712]</a></span> and the consequent peasant revolts of the +fourteenth century. It shows much historical research and care in +collection of materials, is rich in references to the barbarous customs +and strange manners of the times, and, like the "Chronicle of Charles +IX.," another historical work of M. Mérimée's, has, we suspect, been +found very useful by more recent fabricators of romances.</p> + +<p>Educated for the bar, but not practising his profession, M. Mérimée was +one of the rising men of talent whom the July revolution pushed forward. +After being <i>chef de cabinet</i> of the Minister of the Interior, Count +d'Argout, he held several appointments under government, amongst others, +that of Inspector of Historical Monuments, an office he still retains. +In 1844 he was elected to a chair in the French Academy, vacant by the +death of the accomplished Charles Nodier. He has busied himself much +with archæological researches, and the published results of his travels +in the west of France, Provence, Corsica, &c., are most learned and +valuable. In the intervals of his antiquarian investigations and +administrative labours, he has thrown off a number of tales and +sketches, most of which first saw the light in leading French +periodicals, and have since been collected and republished. They are all +remarkable for grace of style and tact in management of subject. One of +the longest, "Colomba," a tale of Corsican life, is better known in +England than its author's name. It has been translated with accuracy and +spirit, and lately has been further brought before the public, on the +boards of a minor theatre, distorted into a very indifferent melodrama. +The Corsican Vendetta has been taken as the basis of more than one +romantic story, but, handled by M. Mérimée, it has acquired new and +fascinating interest; and he has enriched his little romance with a +profusion of those small traits and artistical touches which exhibit the +character and peculiarities of a people better than folios of dry +description. "La Double Méprise," another of his longer tales, is a +clever <i>novelette</i> of Parisian life. According to English notions its +subject is slippery, its main incident, and some of its minor details, +improbable and unpleasant, although so neatly managed that one is less +startled when reading them than shocked on after-reflection. It +certainly requires skilful management to give an air of probability to +such a scene as is detailed in chapter five. A French <i>gentleman</i>, a man +of fortune and family, mixing in good society, is anxious for an +appointment at court, and to obtain it he reckons much on the influence +and good word of a certain Duke of H——. There is a benefit night at +the Opera, and the young wife of the aspirant to court honours has a +box. Between the acts her husband, who has unwillingly accompanied her, +rambles about the house, and discovers the Duke in an inconvenient +corner, where he can see nothing. His grace is not alone, but in the +society of his kept-mistress. To propitiate his patron, the unscrupulous +husband introduces him and his companion into the box of his +unsuspecting wife! The sequel may be imagined; the stare and titter of +acquaintances, the supercilious gratitude of the Duke, the astonishment +of the lady at the singular tone of the pretty and elegantly dressed +woman with whom she is thus unexpectedly brought in contact, and whose +want of <i>usage</i> bespeaks, as she imagines, the newly arrived provincial. +All this, which might pass muster in a novel depicting the manners and +morals of the Regency, is rather violent in one of our day; but yet, so +cleverly are the angles of improbability draped and softened down, the +reader perseveres. The plot is very slight; the tale scarcely depends on +it, but is what the French call a <i>tableau de mœurs</i>, with less +pretensions to the regular progress and catastrophe of a novel, than to +be a mirror of everyday scenes and actors on the bustling stage of Paris +life. The characters are well drawn, the dialogues witty and dramatic, +the book abounds in sly hits and smart satire; but its bitterness of +tone injured its popularity, and, unlike its author's other tales, it +met little success. The opening chapter is a picture of a lively +Parisian <i>ménage</i>, such as many doubtless exist; a striking example of a +<i>mariage de convenance</i>, or mis-match.</p> + +<p>"Six years had elapsed since the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_713" id="Page_713">[Pg 713]</a></span> marriage of Julie de Chaverny, and +five years and six months, or thereabouts, since she had discovered that +it was impossible for her to love her husband, and very difficult to +esteem him. He was not a bad man, neither could he be called stupid, nor +even silly; she had once thought him agreeable; now she found him +intolerably wearisome. To her every thing about him was repulsive and +unpleasant. His most trifling actions, his way of eating, of taking +coffee, of talking, gave her umbrage and irritated her nerves. Except at +table, the pair scarcely saw or spoke to each other; but they dined +together several times a-week, and that sufficed to keep up the sort of +hatred Julie entertained towards her husband.</p> + +<p>"As to Chaverny, he was rather a handsome man, a little too corpulent +for his time of life, with a fresh complexion, full-blooded, and by no +means subject to those vague uneasinesses which sometimes torment +persons of more intellectual organisation. Piously convinced that his +wife's sentiments towards him were those of tender friendship, the +conviction caused him neither pleasure nor pain. Had he known Julie's +feelings to be of an opposite nature, it would have made little +difference to his happiness. He had served several years in a cavalry +regiment, when he inherited a considerable fortune, became disgusted +with garrison life, resigned his commission, and took a wife. It seems +difficult to explain the marriage of two persons who had not an idea in +common. On the one hand, a number of those officious friends and +relations, who, as Phrosine says, would marry the republic of Venice to +the Grand Turk, had taken much pains to arrange it: on the other, +Chaverny was of good family; before his marriage he was not too fat; he +was gay and cheerful, and what is called a <i>good fellow</i>. Julie was glad +to see him at her mother's house, because he made her laugh with +anecdotes of his regiment, droll enough, if not always in the best +taste. She found him amiable, because he danced with her at every ball, +and was always ready with excellent reasons to persuade her mother to +remain late at theatre or party, or at the <i>Bois de Boulogne</i>. Finally, +she thought him a hero, because he had fought two or three creditable +duels. But what completed his triumph, was the description of a certain +carriage, to be built after a plan of his own, and in which he was to +drive Julie, as soon as she consented to become Madame de Chaverny.</p> + +<p>"A few months of married life, and Chaverny's good qualities had lost +much of their merit. He no longer danced with his wife—that of course. +His funny stories had long been thrice told. He complained that balls +lasted too late; at the theatre he yawned; the custom of dressing for +the evening he found an insufferable bore. Laziness was his bane; had he +endeavoured to please, perhaps he would have succeeded, but the least +exertion or restraint was torture to him, as to most fat persons. He +found it irksome to go into society, because there the manner of one's +reception depends on the efforts one makes to please. A rude joviality +suited him better than refined amusements; to distinguish himself +amongst persons of a similar taste to his own, he had only to talk and +laugh louder than his companions—and that he did without trouble, for +his lungs were remarkably vigorous. He also prided himself on drinking +more champagne than most men could support, and on leaping his horse +over a four-foot wall in true sporting style. To these various +accomplishments he was indebted for the friendship and esteem of the +indefinable class of beings known as 'young men,' who swarm upon our +<i>boulevards</i> towards eight in the evening. Shooting parties, country +excursions, races, bachelors' dinners and suppers, were his favourite +pastimes. Twenty times a-day he declared himself the happiest of +mortals; and when Julie heard the declaration, she cast her eyes to +heaven, and her little mouth assumed an expression of indescribable +contempt."</p> + +<p>We turn to another of M. Mérimée's books, in our opinion his best, an +historical romance, entitled 1572, a "Chronicle of the Reign of Charles +the Ninth." "In history," says the author in his preface, "I care only +for the anecdotes, and prefer those in which I fancy I discover a true +picture of the manners and characters<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_714" id="Page_714">[Pg 714]</a></span> of a particular period. This is +not a very elevated taste; but I own, to my shame, that I would +willingly give the whole of Thucydides for an authentic memoir of +Aspasia, or of one of Pericles' slaves. Memoirs, the familiar gossip of +an author with his reader, alone supply those individual portraits that +amuse and interest me. It is not from Mezerai, but from Montlue, +Brantôme, D'Aubigné, Tavannes, La Noue, &c., that one forms a just idea +of the French of the sixteenth century. From the style of those +contemporary authors, we learn as much as from the substance of their +narratives. In L'Estoile, for instance, I read the following concise +note. 'The demoiselle de Chateau-neuf, one of the king's <i>mignonnes</i>, +before he went to Poland, having espoused, <i>par amourettes</i>, the +Florentine Antinotti, officer of the galleys at Marseilles, and +detecting him in an intrigue, slew him stoutly with her own hand.' By +the help of this anecdote, and of similar ones, which abound in +Brantôme, I make up a character in my head, and resuscitate a lady of +Henry the Third's court." The "Chronicle" is the result of much reading +and combination of the kind here referred to; and M. Mérimée has even +been accused of adhering too closely to reality, to the detriment of the +poetical character of his romance. He does not make his heroes and +heroines sufficiently perfect, or his villains sufficiently atrocious, +to suit the palate of some critics, but depicts them as he finds +evidence of their having existed—their virtues obscured by the coarse +manners and loose morality, their crimes palliated by the religious +antipathies and stormy political passions of a semi-civilised age. He +declines judging the men of the sixteenth century according to the ideas +of the nineteenth. And, with regard to minor matters, he does not, like +some of his contemporaries, place in the mouth of a Huguenot leader, or +a <i>Guisarde</i> countess, the tame and dainty phrase appropriate enough in +that of an equerry, or lady of the bed-chamber at the court of the +Citizen King. Eschewing conventionality, and following his own judgment, +and the guidance of the old chroniclers, in whose quaint records he +delights, he has written one of the best existing French historical +romances.</p> + +<p>It would have been easy for a less able writer than M. Mérimée to have +extended the "Chronique" to thrice its present length. It is not a +complete romance, but a desultory sketch of the events and manners of +the time, with a few imaginary personages introduced. Novel readers who +require a regular <i>denoûment</i> will be disappointed at its conclusion. +There is not even a hint of a wedding from the first page to the last; +and the only lady who plays a prominent part in the story, a certain +countess Diane de Turgis, is little better than she should be. And yet, +if we follow M. Mérimée's rule, and judge her according to the ideas and +morals of the age she flourished in, she was rather an amiable and +proper sort of person. True, she sets her lovers by the ears, and feels +gratified when they cut each other's throats: she even challenges a +court dame, who has taken the precedence of her, to an encounter with +sword and dagger, <i>en chemise</i>, according to the prevailing mode amongst +the <i>raffinés</i>, or professed duellists of the time; and she writes +seductive billets-doux in Spanish, and gives wicked little suppers to +the handsome cavalier on whom her affections are set. But, on the other +hand, she goes to mass, and confesses, and does her best to save her +Huguenot lover's body and soul, and obtain the remission of her own sins +by converting him from his heresy. So that, as times went in the year +1572, she was to be reckoned amongst the righteous. The handsome +heretic, in whose present safety and future salvation she takes so +strong an interest, is one Bernard de Mergy, who has come to Paris to +take service with the great chief of his co-religionists, Admiral +Coligny. His brother, George de Mergy, has deserted the creed of Calvin, +and is consequently in high favour at the Louvre, but under the ban of +his father, a stern old Huguenot officer, who will not hear the name of +his renegade son. Bernard, whilst regretting his brother's apostasy, +does not deem it necessary to shun his society. On the road he has been +cajoled or robbed of his ready cash by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_715" id="Page_715">[Pg 715]</a></span> a pretty gipsy girl, and his +good horse has been stolen by one of the hordes of German lanzknechts, +whom the recent civil war had brought to France. He reaches Paris with +an empty purse, and is not sorry to meet his brother, who welcomes him +kindly, and supplies his wants, but refuses to recant, and attempts to +justify his backsliding. In the course of his defence he gives an +insight into the prevalent corruption of the time, and shows how the +private vices of great political leaders often marred the fortunes of +their party.</p> + +<p>"'You were still at school,' said De Mergy, 'learning Latin and Greek, +when I first donned the cuirass, girded the Huguenot's white scarf, and +took share in our civil wars. Your little Prince of Condé, who has led +his party into so many errors, looked after your affairs when his +intrigues left him time. A lady loved me; the prince asked me to resign +her to him; I refused, and he became my mortal enemy. From that hour he +lost no opportunity of mortifying me.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Ce petit prince si joli<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Qui toujours baise sa mignonne,<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>held me up to the fanatics of the party as a monster of libertinism and +irreligion. I had only one mistress; and as to the irreligion,—I let +others do as they like, why attack me?'</p> + +<p>"'I thought the prince incapable of such baseness,' said Bernard.</p> + +<p>"'He is dead,' replied his brother, 'and you have deified him. 'Tis the +way of the world. He had great qualities; he died like a brave man, and +I have forgiven him. But then he was powerful, and on the part of a poor +gentleman like myself, it was guilt to resist him. All the preachers and +hypocrites of the army set upon me, but I cared as little for their +abuse as for their sermons. At last one of the prince's gentlemen, to +curry favour with his master, called me libertine, before all our +captains. I struck him: we fought—and he was killed. At that time there +were a dozen duels a day in the army, and no notice taken. In my favour +an exception was made; I was fixed upon by the prince to serve as an +example. The entreaties of the other leaders, including the Admiral, +procured my pardon. But the prince's rancour was not yet appeased. At +the fight of Jazeneuil, I commanded a company: I had been foremost in +the skirmish; my cuirass battered and broken by bullets, my left arm +pierced by a lance, showed that I had not spared myself. I had only +twenty men left, and a battalion of the king's Swiss guards advanced +against us. The Prince of Condé ordered me to charge them; I asked for +two companies of <i>reitres</i>, and—he called me coward.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy rose and approached his brother with an expression of strong +interest. The Captain continued—his eyes flashing with anger at the +recollection of the insult:—</p> + +<p>"'He called me coward before all those popinjays in gilt armour who +afterwards abandoned him on the battle-field of Jarnac. I resolved to +die, and rushed upon the Swiss—vowing, if I escaped with life, never +again to draw sword for that unjust prince. Grievously wounded, thrown +from my horse, one of the Duke of Anjou's gentlemen, Béville—the mad +fellow whom we dined with to-day—saved my life, and presented me to the +duke. He treated me well. I was eager for vengeance. They urged me to +take service under my benefactor, the Duke of Anjou; they quoted the +line—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Omne solum forti patria est, ut piscibus æquor.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>I was indignant to see the Protestants summoning foreigners to their +assistance. But why disguise the real motive that actuated me? I +thirsted for revenge, and became a Catholic, in hopes of meeting the +Prince of Condé in fair fight, and killing him. A coward forestalled me, +and the manner of the prince's death almost made me forget my hatred. I +saw his bloody corpse abandoned to the insults of the soldiery; I +rescued it from their hands, and covered it with my cloak. I was pledged +to the Catholics; I commanded a squadron of their cavalry; I could not +leave them. I have happily been able to render some service to my former +party; I have done my best to soften the fury of religious animosities, +and have been fortunate enough to save several of my friends.'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_716" id="Page_716">[Pg 716]</a></span></p> + +<p>"'Oliver de Basseville tells every body he owes you his life.'</p> + +<p>"'Behold me then a Catholic,' continued George, in a calmer voice. 'The +religion is as good as another: and then it is an easy and pleasant one. +See yonder pretty Madonna: 'tis the portrait of an Italian courtesan; +but the bigots praise my piety when I cross myself before it. My word +for it, I get on vastly better with Rome than Geneva. By making trifling +sacrifices to the opinions of the <i>canaille</i>, I live as I like. I must +go to mass—very good! I go there and stare at the pretty women. I must +have a confessor—<i>parbleu!</i> I have one, a jolly Franciscan and +ex-dragoon, who for a crown-piece gives me a ticket of confession, and +delivers my billets-doux to his pretty penitents into the bargain. <i>Mort +de ma vie! Vive la messe!</i>'</p> + +<p>"Mergy could not restrain a smile.</p> + +<p>"'There is my breviary,' continued the Captain, throwing his brother a +richly-bound book, fastened with silver clasps, and enclosed in a velvet +case. 'Such a missal as that is well worth your prayer-books.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy read on the back of the volume, <i>Heures de la Cour</i>.</p> + +<p>"'The binding is handsome,' he said, disdainfully returning the book.</p> + +<p>"The Captain smiled, and opening it again handed it to him. Mergy then +read upon the first page: <i>La vie très-horrifique du grand Gargantua, +père de Pantagruel: composée par M. Alcofribas, abstracteur de +Quintessena.</i>"</p> + +<p>Thus, in a single page, does M. Mérimée place before us a picture of the +times, with their mixture of fanaticism and irreligion, their shameless +political profligacy and private immorality. Bernard de Mergy cannot +prevail with his brother to return to the conventicle: so he accompanies +him to mass—not to pray, but hoping to obtain a glimpse of Madame de +Turgis, whom he has already seen masked in the street, and whose +graceful form and high reputation for beauty have made strong impression +on the imagination of this novice in court gallantries. On entering the +sacristy, they find the preacher, a jolly monk, surrounded by a dozen +young rakes, with whom he bandies jokes more witty than wise.</p> + +<p>"'Ah,' cried Béville, 'here is the Captain! Come, George, give us a +text. Father Lubin has promised to preach on any one we propose.'</p> + +<p>"'Yes,' said the monk; 'but make haste. <i>Mort de ma vie!</i> I ought to be +in the pulpit already.'</p> + +<p>"'Peste! Father Lubin, you swear like the king,' cried the Captain.</p> + +<p>"I bet he would not swear in his sermon,' said Béville.</p> + +<p>"'Why not, if the fancy took me?' stoutly retorted the Franciscan.</p> + +<p>"'Ten pistoles you do not.'</p> + +<p>"'Ten pistoles? Done.'</p> + +<p>"'Béville,' cried the Captain, 'I go halves in your wager.'</p> + +<p>"'No, no!' replied his friend, 'I will not share the reverend's money; +and if he wins, by my faith! I shall not regret mine. An oath in pulpit +is well worth ten pistoles.'</p> + +<p>"'They are already won,' said Father Lubin; 'I begin my sermon with +three oaths. <i>Ah! Messieurs les Gentilhommes</i>, because you have rapier +on hip, and plume in hat, you would monopolise the talent of swearing. +We will see.'</p> + +<p>"He left the sacristy, and in an instant was in his pulpit. There was +silence in the church. The preacher scanned the crowded congregation as +though seeking his bettor; and when he discovered him leaning against a +column exactly opposite the pulpit, he knit his brows, put his arms +akimbo, and in an angry tone thus began:</p> + +<p>"'My dear Brethren,</p> + +<p>"<i>'Par la vertu!—par la mort!—par le sang!'</i>—</p> + +<p>"A murmur of surprise and indignation interrupted the preacher, or, it +were more correctly said, filled up the pause he intentionally left.</p> + +<p>"—— 'de Dieu,' continued the Franciscan, in a devout nasal whine, 'we +are saved and delivered from punishment.'</p> + +<p>"'A general burst of laughter interrupted him a second time. Béville +took his purse from his girdle, and shook it at the preacher, as an +admission that he had lost."</p> + +<p>The sermon that follows is in character with its commencement. Whilst +awaiting its conclusion, Bernard de Mergy in vain seeks the Countess de +Turgis; it is only when leaving the church that his brother<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_717" id="Page_717">[Pg 717]</a></span> points her +out to him. She is escorted by a young man, of slight figure and +effeminate mien, dressed with studied negligence. This is the terrible +Count de Comminges, the duellist of the day, the chief of those +<i>raffinés</i> who fought on every pretext, and often on no pretext at all. +He had had nearly a hundred duels, and a challenge from him was held +equivalent to a ticket for the hospital, if not to sentence of death. +"Comminges once summoned a man to the Pré-aux-Clercs, then the classic +duelling-ground. They stripped off their doublets, and drew their +swords. 'Are you not Berny of Auvergne?' inquired Comminges. 'Certainly +not,' replied his antagonist; 'my name is Villequier, and I am from +Normandy.' 'So much the worse,' quoth Comminges, 'I took you for another +man; but since I have challenged you, we must fight.' They fought +accordingly, and the unlucky Norman was killed." Since the death of a +Monsieur de Lannoy, slain at the siege of Orleans, Madame de Turgis is +without a lover. Comminges aspires to the vacant post; his attentions +are rather tolerated than encouraged; but he seems determined that if he +does not succeed, nobody else shall, for he has constituted himself her +constant attendant, and a wholesome dread of his formidable rapier keeps +off rivals. He has sworn to kill all who present themselves.</p> + +<p>By the interest of Coligny, whom Charles the Ninth affects to favour +whilst he plots his death, Bernard de Mergy receives a commission in the +army preparing for a campaign in Flanders. He goes to court to thank the +king, and the following scene passes.</p> + +<p>"The court was at the Château de Madrid. The queen-mother, surrounded by +her ladies, waited in her apartment for the king to come to breakfast. +The king, followed by the princes, slowly traversed the gallery, in +which were assembled the nobles and gentlemen who were to accompany him +to the chase. With an absent air he listened to the remarks of his +courtiers, and made abrupt replies. When he passed before the two +brothers, the Captain bent his knee, and presented the newly-made +officer. Mergy bowed profoundly, and thanked his majesty for the favour +shown him before he had earned it.</p> + +<p>"'Ha! it is you of whom my father the Admiral spoke! You are Captain +George's brother?'</p> + +<p>"'Yes, sire.'</p> + +<p>"'Catholic or Protestant?'</p> + +<p>"'Sire, I am a Protestant.'</p> + +<p>"'I ask from idle curiosity. The devil take me if I care of what +religion are those who serve me well.'</p> + +<p>"And having uttered these memorable words, the king entered the queen's +apartments. A few moments later, a swarm of ladies spread themselves +over the gallery, as if sent to enable the gentlemen to wait with +patience. I shall speak but of one of the beauties of that court, where +they so greatly abounded; of the Countess de Turgis, who plays an +important part in this history. She wore an elegant riding-dress, and +had not yet put on her mask. Her complexion, of dazzling but uniform +whiteness, contrasted with her jet-black hair; her well-arched +eye-brows, slightly joining, gave a proud expression to her physiognomy, +without diminishing its graceful beauty. At first, the sole expression +of her blue eye seemed one of disdainful haughtiness; but when animated +in conversation, their pupils, dilated like those of a cat, seemed to +emit sparks, and few men, even of the most audacious, could long sustain +their magical power.</p> + +<p>"'The Countess de Turgis—how lovely she looks!' murmured the courtiers, +pressing forward to see her better. Mergy, close to whom she passed, was +so struck by her beauty, that he forgot to make way till her large +silken sleeves rustled against his doublet. She remarked his emotion +without displeasure, and for a moment deigned to fix her magnificent +eyes on those of the young Protestant, who felt his cheek glow under her +gaze. The Countess smiled and passed on, letting one of her gloves fall +before our hero, who, still motionless and fascinated, neglected to pick +it up. Instantly a fair-haired youth, (it was no other than Comminges,) +who stood behind Mergy, pushed him rudely in passing before him, seized +the glove, kissed it respectfully, and presented it to Madame de +Turgis.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_718" id="Page_718">[Pg 718]</a></span> Without thanking him, the lady turned towards Mergy with a look +of crushing contempt; and, observing Captain George at his side, +'Captain,' said she, very loud, 'where does that great clown spring +from? He must be some Huguenot, judging from his courtesy.'</p> + +<p>"The laughter of the bystanders completed the embarrassment of the +unlucky Bernard.</p> + +<p>"'He is my brother, madam,' was George's quiet reply; 'he has been three +days at Paris, and, by my honour! he is not more awkward than Lannoy +was, before you undertook his education.'</p> + +<p>"The Countess coloured slightly. 'An unkind jest, Captain,' she said: +'Speak not ill of the dead. Give me your hand; I have a message to you +from a lady whom you have offended.'</p> + +<p>"The Captain respectfully took her hand, and led her to the recess of a +distant window. Before she reached it, she once more turned her head to +look at Mergy.</p> + +<p>"Still dazzled by the apparition of the beautiful Countess, whom he +longed to look at, but dared not, Mergy felt a gentle tap upon his +shoulder. He turned and beheld the Baron de Vaudreuil, who drew him +aside, to speak to him, as he said, without fear of interruption.</p> + +<p>"'My dear fellow,' the Baron began, 'you are a stranger at court, and +are probably not yet acquainted with its customs?'</p> + +<p>"Mergy looked at him with astonishment.</p> + +<p>"'Your brother is engaged, and not able to advise you; if agreeable to +you I will replace him. You have been gravely insulted; and seeing you +in this pensive attitude, I doubt not you meditate revenge.'</p> + +<p>"'Revenge?—on whom?' cried Mergy, reddening to the very white of his +eyes.</p> + +<p>"'Were you not just now rudely pushed aside by little Comminges? The +whole court witnessed the affront, and expect you to notice it +suitably.'</p> + +<p>"'But,' said Mergy, 'in so crowded a room as this an accidental push is +nothing very extraordinary.'</p> + +<p>"'M. de Mergy, I have not the honour to be intimate with you: but your +brother is my particular friend, and he will tell you that I practise as +much as possible the divine precept of forgiveness of injuries. I do not +wish to embark you in a bad quarrel, but at the same time it is my duty +to tell you that Comminges did not push you accidentally. He pushed you, +because he wished to insult you; and if he had not pushed you, you would +still be insulted; for, by picking up Madame de Turgis's glove, he +usurped your right. The glove was at your feet, <i>ergo</i> it was for you +alone to raise and return it. And you have but to look around; you will +see Comminges telling the story and laughing at you.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy turned about. Comminges was surrounded by five or six young men, +to whom he laughingly narrated something which they listened to with +curious interest. Nothing proved that his conduct was under discussion; +but at the words of his charitable counsellor, Mergy felt his heart +swell with fury.</p> + +<p>"'I will speak to him after the hunt,' he said, 'and he shall tell me—'</p> + +<p>"'Oh! never put off a good resolution; besides, you offend Heaven much +less in challenging your adversary immediately after the offence than in +doing it when you have had time to reflect. In a moment of irritation, +which is but a venial offence, you agree to fight; and if you afterwards +fulfil your agreement, it is only to avoid committing a far greater sin, +that of breaking your word. But, I forget that you are a Protestant. +Nevertheless, arrange a meeting with him at once. I will bring you +together.'</p> + +<p>"'I trust he will not refuse to make a fitting apology.'</p> + +<p>"'Undeceive yourself, comrade. Comminges never yet said, I was wrong. +But he is a man of strict honour, and will give you every satisfaction.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy made an effort to suppress his emotion and assume an indifferent +air.</p> + +<p>"'Since I have been insulted,' he said, 'I must have satisfaction. And +whatever kind may be necessary, I shall know how to insist upon it.'</p> + +<p>"'Well spoken, my brave friend; your boldness pleases me, for you of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_719" id="Page_719">[Pg 719]</a></span> +course know that Comminges is one of our best swordsmen. <i>Par ma foi!</i> +he handles his blade right cunningly. He took lessons at Rome, of +Brambilla, and Petit-Jean will fence with him no longer.' And whilst +speaking, Vaudreuil attentively watched the countenance of Mergy, who +was pale, but from anger at the offence offered him rather than from +apprehension of its consequences.</p> + +<p>"'I would willingly be your second in this affair, but I take the +sacrament to-morrow, and, moreover, I am engaged to M. de Rheincy, and +cannot draw sword against any but him.'<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p> + +<p>"'I thank you, sir. If necessary, my brother will second me.'</p> + +<p>"'The Captain is perfectly at home in these affairs. Meanwhile, I will +bring Comminges to speak with you.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy bowed, and turning to the wall, did his best to compose his +countenance and arrange what he should say. There is a certain grace in +giving a challenge, which habit alone bestows. It was our hero's first +affair, and he was a little embarrassed; he was less afraid of a +sword-thrust than of saying something unbecoming a gentleman. He had +just succeeded in composing a firm and polite sentence, when Baron de +Vaudreuil, taking him by the arm, drove it out of his head.</p> + +<p>"'You desire to speak to me, sir?' said Comminges, hat in hand, and +bowing with an impertinent politeness, which brought an angry flush upon +Mergy's countenance.</p> + +<p>"'I hold myself insulted by your behaviour,' the young Protestant +instantly replied, 'and I desire satisfaction.'</p> + +<p>"Vaudreuil nodded approvingly; Comminges drew himself up, and placing +his hand on his hip, the prescribed posture in such circumstances, +replied with much gravity:</p> + +<p>"'You constitute yourself demander, sir, and, as defendant, I have the +choice of arms.'</p> + +<p>"'Name those you prefer.'"</p> + +<p>Comminges reflected for an instant. "'The <i>estoc</i>,' he at last said, 'is +a good weapon, but it makes ugly wounds; and at our age,' he added, with +a smile, 'one is not anxious to appear before one's mistress with a +scarred countenance. The rapier makes a small hole, but it is enough.' +And he again smiled, as he said, 'I choose rapier and dagger.'</p> + +<p>"'Very good,' said Mergy, and he took a step to depart.</p> + +<p>"'One moment!' cried Vaudreuil; 'you forget the place of meeting.'</p> + +<p>"'The Court uses the Pré-aux-Clercs,' said Comminges; 'and if the +gentleman has no particular preference—— '</p> + +<p>"'The Pré-aux-Clercs—be it so.'</p> + +<p>"'As to the time, I shall not be up before eight o'clock, for reasons of +my own—you understand—I do not sleep at home to-night, and cannot be +at the Pré before nine.'</p> + +<p>"'Let nine be the hour.'</p> + +<p>"Just then Mergy perceived the Countess de Turgis, who had left the +Captain in conversation with another lady. As may be supposed, at sight +of the lovely cause of this ugly affair, our hero threw into his +countenance an additional amount of gravity and feigned indifference.</p> + +<p>"'Of late,' said Vaudreuil, 'it is the fashion to fight in crimson +drawers. If you have none, I will send you a pair. They look clean, and +do not show blood. And now,' continued the Baron, who appeared quite in +his element, 'nothing remains but to fix upon your seconds and thirds.'</p> + +<p>"'The gentleman is a new comer at Court' said Comminges, 'and perhaps +might have difficulty in finding a third. Out of consideration for him I +will content myself with a second.'</p> + +<p>"With some difficulty, Mergy contracted his lips into a smile.</p> + +<p>"'Impossible to be more courteous,' said the Baron. 'It is really a +pleasure to deal with so accommodating a cavalier as M. de Comminges.'</p> + +<p>"'You will require a rapier of the same length as mine,' resumed +Comminges; 'I can recommend you Laurent, at the Golden Sun, Rue de la +Féronnerie; he is the best armourer in Paris. Tell him you come from me, +and he will treat you well.' Having thus spoken, he turned upon his +heel, and rejoined the group he had lately left.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_720" id="Page_720">[Pg 720]</a></span></p> + +<p>"'I congratulate you, M. Bernard,' said Vaudreuil; 'you have acquitted +yourself admirably. Exceedingly well, indeed. Comminges is not +accustomed to hear himself spoken to in that fashion. He is feared like +fire, especially since he killed Canillac; for as to St Michel, whom he +killed a couple of months ago, he did not get much credit by that. St +Michel was not particularly skilful, whilst Canillac, had already slain +five or six antagonists, without receiving a scratch. He had studied at +Naples under Borelli, and it was said that Lansac had bequeathed him the +secret thrust with which he did so much harm. To be sure,' continued the +Baron, as if to himself, 'Canillac had pillaged the church at Auxerre, +and trampled on the consecrated wafers: no wonder he was punished.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy, although far from amused by this conversation, thought himself +bound to continue it, lest a suspicion offensive to his courage should +occur to Vaudreuil.</p> + +<p>"'Fortunately,' he replied, 'I have pillaged no church, and never +touched a consecrated wafer in my life; so I have a risk the less to +run.'</p> + +<p>"'Another caution. When you cross swords with Comminges, beware of one +of his feints, which cost Captain Tomaso his life. He cried out that the +point of his sword was broken. Tomaso instantly guarded his head, +expecting a cut; but Comminges's sword was perfect enough, for it +entered, to within a foot of the hilt, Tomaso's breast, which he had +exposed, not anticipating a thrust. But you fight with rapiers, and +there is less danger.'</p> + +<p>"'I will do my best.'</p> + +<p>"'Ah! one thing more. Choose a dagger with a strong basket-hilt; it is +very useful to parry. I owe this scar on my left hand to having gone out +one day without a poniard. Young Tallard and myself had a quarrel, and +for want of a dagger, I nearly lost my hand.'</p> + +<p>"'And was he wounded?' inquired Mergy.</p> + +<p>"'I killed him, thanks to a vow I made to St Maurice, my patron. Have +some linen and lint about you, it can do no harm. One is not always +killed outright. You will do well also to have your sword placed on the +altar during mass. But you are a Protestant. Yet another word. Do not +make it a point of honour not to retreat; on the contrary, keep him +moving; he is short-winded; exhaust his breath, and, when you find your +opportunity, one good thrust in the breast and your man is down.'</p> + +<p>"There is no saying how long the Baron would have continued his valuable +advice, had not a great sounding of horns announced that the King was +about to take horse. The door of the apartment opened; and his Majesty +and the Queen-mother made their appearance, equipped for the chase. +Captain George, who had just left his lady, joined his brother, and +clapped him joyously on the shoulder.</p> + +<p>"'By the mass!' he cried, 'thou art a lucky rogue! Only see this +youngster, with his cat's mustache; he has but to show himself, and all +the ladies are mad after him. The handsome Countess has been talking +about you for the last quarter of an hour. Come, good courage! During +the hunt, keep by her stirrup, and be as gallant as you can. But what +the devil's the matter with you? Are you ill? You make as long a face as +a preacher at the stake. <i>Morbleu!</i> cheer up, man!'</p> + +<p>"'I have no great fancy to hunt to-day,' said Bernard; 'and I would +rather—'</p> + +<p>"'If you do not hunt,' whispered Vaudreuil, 'Comminges will think you +are afraid.'</p> + +<p>"'I am ready,' said Mergy, passing his hand across his burning brow, and +resolved to wait till after the hunt to inform his brother of his +adventure. 'What disgrace,' thought he, 'if Madame de Turgis suspected +me of fear; if she supposed that the idea of an approaching duel +prevented my enjoying the chase.'</p> + +<p>"During the hunt, Bernard swerves not from the side of the Countess, who +accords him various marks of favour, and finally dismisses Comminges, +who has also escorted her, and has a <i>tête-a-tête</i> ride with her new +admirer. She well knows that a duel is in the wind, and dreads it, for +Mergy's sake. Hopeless of his escape with life from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_721" id="Page_721">[Pg 721]</a></span> the projected +combat, she tries at least to save his soul, and makes a bold attempt at +his conversion. But on that head he is deaf even to <i>her</i> voice. +Baffled, she essays a compromise.</p> + +<p>"'You heretics have no faith in relics?' said Madame de Turgis.</p> + +<p>"Bernard smiled.</p> + +<p>"'And you think yourselves defiled by touching them?' she continued. +'You would not carry one, as we Roman Catholics are wont to do?'</p> + +<p>"'We hold the custom useless, to say the least.'</p> + +<p>"'Listen. A cousin of mine once attached a relic to his hound's neck, +and at twelve paces fired at the dog an arquebuse charged with slugs.'</p> + +<p>"'And the dog was killed?'</p> + +<p>"'Not touched.'</p> + +<p>"'Wonderful! I would fain possess such a relic.'</p> + +<p>"'Indeed!—and you would carry it?'</p> + +<p>"'Undoubtedly—since the relic saved the dog, it would of course—But +stay, is it quite certain that a heretic is as good as a Catholic's +dog?'</p> + +<p>"Without listening to him, Madame de Turgis hastily unbuttoned the top +of her closely fitting habit, and took from her bosom a little gold box, +very flat, suspended by a black ribbon. 'Here,' she said,—'you promised +to wear it. You shall return it me one day.'</p> + +<p>"'Certainly. If I am able.'</p> + +<p>"'But you will take care of it? No sacrilege! You will take the greatest +care of it!'</p> + +<p>"'I have received it from you, madam.'</p> + +<p>"She gave him the relic, and he hung it round his neck.</p> + +<p>"'A Catholic would have thanked the hand that bestowed the holy +talisman.'</p> + +<p>"Mergy seized her hand, and tried to raise it to his lips.</p> + +<p>"'No, no! it is too late.'</p> + +<p>"'Say not so! Remember, I may never again have such fortune.'</p> + +<p>"'Take off my glove,' said the lady. Whilst obeying, Mergy thought he +felt a slight pressure. He imprinted a burning kiss on the white and +beautiful hand."</p> + +<p>"Frank and free were the dames of the ninth Charles's court. Faithless +in the virtues of the relic, feverishly excited by the novelty of his +situation, and by the preference the Countess has shown him, which has +given life a tenfold value in his eyes, Mergy passes an agitated and +sleepless night. When the Louvre clock strikes eight, his brother enters +his apartment, bringing the necessary weapons, and vainly endeavouring +to conceal his sadness and anxiety. Bernard examines the sword and +dagger, the manufacture of the famous Luno of Toledo.</p> + +<p>"'With such good arms,' he said, 'I shall surely be able to defend +myself.' Then showing the relic given him by Madame de Turgis, and which +he wore concealed in his bosom, 'Here too,' he added with a smile, 'is a +talisman better than coat of mail against a sword-thrust.'</p> + +<p>"'Whence have you the bauble?'</p> + +<p>"'Guess.' And the vanity of appearing favoured by the fair, made him for +a moment forget both Comminges and the duelling sword that lay naked +before him.</p> + +<p>"'I would wager that crazy Countess gave it you! May the devil confound +her and her box!'</p> + +<p>"'It is a relic for protection in to-day's encounter.'</p> + +<p>"'She had better have worn her gloves, instead of parading her fine +white fingers.'</p> + +<p>"'God preserve me,' cried Mergy, blushing deeply, 'from believing in +Papist relics. But if I fall to-day, I would have her know that I died +with this upon my heart.'</p> + +<p>"'Folly!' cried the Captain, shrugging his shoulders.</p> + +<p>"'Here is a letter for my mother,' said Mergy, his voice slightly +tremulous. George took it without a word, and approaching the table, +opened a small Bible, and seemed busy reading whilst his brother +completed his toilet. On the first page that offered itself to his eyes, +he read these words in his mother's handwriting; '1st May 1549, my son +Bernard was born. Lord, conduct him in thy ways! Lord, shield him from +all harm!' George bit his lip violently, and threw down the book. +Bernard observed the gesture, and imagining that some impious thought +had come into his brother's head, he gravely took up the Bible, put it +in an embroidered case, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_722" id="Page_722">[Pg 722]</a></span> locked it in a drawer, with every mark of +great respect.</p> + +<p>"'It is my mother's Bible,' he said.</p> + +<p>"The Captain paced the apartment, but made no reply."</p> + +<p>According to the established rule in such cases—a rule laid down for +the especial behoof, benefit, and accommodation of romance writers—the +hero of a hundred duels falls by the maiden sword of the tyro, who +escapes with a slight wound. So signal a triumph makes the reputation of +Mergy. His wound healed, and all danger of persecution by the powerful +family of Comminges at an end, he reappears at court, and finds that he +has in some sort inherited the respect and consideration formerly shown +to his defunct rival. The politeness of the <i>raffinés</i> is as +overpowering as their envy is ill concealed; and, as to the ladies, in +those days the character of a successful duellist was a sure passport to +their favour. The raw provincial, so lately unheeded, has but to throw +his handkerchief, now that he has dabbled it in blood. But the only one +of these sanguinary sultanas on whom Mergy bestows a thought, is not to +be found. In vain does he seek, in the crowd of beauties who court his +gaze, the pale cheek, blue eyes, and raven hair of Madame de Turgis. +Soon after the duel, she had left Paris for one of her country seats, a +departure attributed by the charitable to grief at the death of +Comminges. Mergy knows better. Whilst laid up with his wound, and +concealed in the house of an old woman, half doctress, half sorceress, +he detected a masked lady, whom he recognised as De Turgis, performing +for his cure, with the assistance of the witch, certain mysterious +incantations. They had procured Comminges's sword, and rubbed it with +scorpion oil, "the sovereign'st thing on earth" to heal the wound the +weapon had inflicted. And there was also a melting of a wax figure, +intended as a love charm; and from all that passed, Bernard could not +doubt that the Countess had set her affections on him. So he waits +patiently, and one morning, whilst his brother is reading the "Vie +très-horrifique de Pantagruel," and he himself is taking a guitar lesson +from the Signor Uberto Vinibella, a wrinkled duenna brings him a scented +note, closed with a gold thread, and a large green seal, bearing a Cupid +with finger on lips, and the Spanish word, <i>Callad</i>, enjoining silence.</p> + +<p>The best picture of the massacre of St Bartholomew we have read in a +book of fiction, is given by M. Mérimée, in small compass and without +unnecessary horrors. Less than an hour before its commencement, the +Countess informs her lover of the fate reserved for him and all of his +faith. She urges and implores him to abjure his heresy; he steadfastly +refuses—and she, her love redoubled by his courageous constancy, +conceals him from the assassins. In the disguise of a monk, he escapes +from Paris, and makes his way to La Rochelle, the last stronghold of the +persecuted Protestants. On the road, he falls in with another refugee, +the <i>lanzknecht</i> Captain Dietrich Hornstein, similarly disguised and +bound to the same place. There is an excellent scene at a country inn, +where four ruffians, their hands reeking with Protestant blood, compel +the false Franciscans to baptise a pair of pullets by the names of carp +and perch, that they may not sin by eating fowl on Friday. Mergy at last +loses patience, and breaks a bottle over one of their heads; and a fight +ensues, in which the bandits are worsted. The two Huguenots reach La +Rochelle, which is soon afterwards besieged by the king's troops. In a +sortie, Bernard forms an ambuscade, into which his brother unfortunately +falls, and receives a mortal wound. Taken into La Rochelle, he is laid +upon a bed to die; and, refusing the spiritual assistance of Catholic +priest and Protestant minister, he accelerates his death by a draught +from Hornstein's wine flask, and strives to comfort Bernard, who is +frantic with remorse.</p> + +<p>"He again closed his eyes, but soon re-opened them and said to Mergy: +'Madame de Turgis bade me assure you of her love.' He smiled gently. +These were his last words. In a quarter of an hour he died, without +appearing to suffer much. A few minutes later Béville expired in the +arms of the monk, who afterwards declared that he had distinctly heard +in the air the cries of joy of the angels who received the soul of the +penitent,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_723" id="Page_723">[Pg 723]</a></span> whilst subterraneous demons responded with a yell of triumph +as they bore away the spiritual part of Captain George."</p> + +<p>"It is to be seen in any history of France, how La Noue left La +Rochelle, disgusted with civil wars and tormented by his conscience, +which reproached him for bearing arms against his king; how the Catholic +army was compelled to raise the siege, and how the fourth peace was +made, soon followed by the death of Charles IX.</p> + +<p>"Did Mergy console himself? Did Diana take another lover? I leave it to +the decision of the reader, who thus will end the romance to his own +liking."</p> + +<p>By his countrymen, M. Mérimée's short tales are the most esteemed of his +writings. He produces them at intervals much too long to please the +editor and readers of the periodical in which they have for some time +appeared,—the able and excellent <i>Revue des Deux Mondes</i>. Once in +eighteen months, or two years, he throws a few pages to the public, +which, like a starved hound to whom a scanty meal is tossed, snaps +eagerly at the gift whilst growling at the niggardliness of the giver: +and the publisher of the <i>Revue</i> knows that he may safely print an extra +thousand copies of a number containing a novel by Prosper Mérimée. Now +and then, M. Mérimée comes out with a criticism of a foreign book. His +last was a review of "Grote's Greece," and he has also written a paper +on "Borrow's Spanish Rambles." A man of great erudition and extensive +travel, he is thoroughly master of many languages, and, in writing about +foreign countries and people, steers clear of the absurd blunders into +which some of his contemporaries, of respectable talents and +attainments, not unfrequently fall. His English officer and lady in +Colomba are excellent; very different from the absurd caricatures of +Englishmen one is accustomed to see in French novels. He is equally +truthful in his Spanish characters. A great lover of things Spanish, he +has frequently visited, and still visits, the Peninsula. In 1831 he +published, in the <i>Revue de Paris</i>, three charming letters from Madrid. +The action of most of his tales passes in Spain or Corsica, or the South +of France, although he now and then dashes at Parisian society. With +this he has unquestionably had ample opportunity to become acquainted, +for he is a welcome guest in the best circles of the French capital. +Still we must hope there is some flaw in the glasses through which he +has observed the gay world of Paris. The "Vase Etrusque" is one of his +sketches of modern French life, in the style of the "Double Méprise," +but better. It is a most amusing and spirited tale, but unnecessarily +immoral. Had the heroine been virtuous, the interest of the story would +in no way have suffered, so far as we can see; and that which attaches +to her, as a charming and unhappy woman, would have been augmented. This +opinion, however, would be scoffed at on the other side of the Channel, +and set down as a piece of English prudery. And perhaps, instead of +grumbling at M. Mérimée for making the Countess Mathilde the mistress of +Saint Clair—which nothing compelled him to do—we ought thankfully to +acknowledge his moderation in contenting himself with a quiet intrigue +between unmarried persons, instead of favouring us with a flagrant case +of adultery, as in the "Double Méprise," or initiating us into the very +profane mysteries of <i>operatic figurantes</i>, as in "Arsène Guillot." Even +in France, where he is so greatly and justly admired, this last tale was +severely censured, as bringing before the public eye phases of society +that ill bear the light. Fidelity to life in his scenes and characters +is a high quality in an author, and one possessed in a high degree by M. +Mérimée; but he has been sometimes too bold and cynical in the choice +and treatment of his subjects. "<i>La Partie de Tric-trac</i>," and +"<i>L'Enlèvement de la Redoute</i>," are amongst his happiest efforts. Both +are especially remarkable for their terse and vigorous style. We have +been prodigal of extracts from "Charles IX."—for it is a great +favourite of ours—and, although well known and much esteemed by all +habitual readers of French novels, it is hitherto, we believe, +untranslated into English. But we shall still make room for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_724" id="Page_724">[Pg 724]</a></span>—</p> + + +<h3>THE STORMING OF THE REDOUBT.</h3> + +<p>"I rejoined the regiment on the evening of the 4th September. I found +the colonel at the bivouac. At first he received me rather roughly; but +after reading General B's. letter of recommendation, he changed his +manner, and spoke a few obliging words. He presented me to my captain, +who had just returned from a reconnoissance. This captain, whom I had +little opportunity to become acquainted with, was a tall dark man, of +hard and repulsive physiognomy. He had been a private soldier, and had +won his cross and his epaulets on the battle-field. His voice, hoarse +and weak, contrasted strangely with his gigantic stature. They told me +he was indebted for this singular voice to a bullet that had passed +completely through his body at Jena.</p> + +<p>"On hearing that I came from the school at Fontainbleau, he made a wry +face, and said, 'My lieutenant died yesterday.'—I understood that he +meant to say, 'You are to replace him, and you are not able.' A sharp +word rose to my lips, but I repressed it.</p> + +<p>"The moon rose behind the redoubt of Cheverino, situate at twice +cannon-shot from our bivouac. She was large and red, as is common at her +rising; but that night she seemed to me of extraordinary size. For an +instant the black outline of the redoubt stood out against the moon's +brilliant disc, resembling the cone of a volcano at the moment of an +eruption.</p> + +<p>"An old soldier who stood near me, noticed the colour of the moon. 'She +is very red,' he said; ''tis a sign that yon famous redoubt will cost us +dear.' I was always superstitious, and this augury, just at that moment, +affected me. I lay down, but could not sleep; I got up and walked for +some time, gazing at the immense line of fires covering the heights +beyond the village of Cheverino.</p> + +<p>"When I deemed my blood sufficient cooled by the fresh night air, I +returned to the fire, wrapped myself carefully in my cloak, and shut my +eyes, hoping not to re-open them till daylight. But sleep shunned me. +Insensibly my thoughts took a gloomy turn. I said to myself, that I had +not one friend amongst the hundred thousand men covering that plain. If +I were wounded, I should be in an hospital, carelessly treated by +ignorant surgeons. All that I had heard of surgical operations returned +to my memory. My heart beat violently; and mechanically I arranged, as a +species of cuirass, the handkerchief and portfolio that I carried in the +breast of my uniform. I was overwhelmed by fatigue, and continually fell +into a doze, but as often as I did so, some sinister idea awoke me with +a start. Fatigue, however, at last got the upper hand, and I was fast +asleep when the <i>reveillé</i> sounded. We formed up, the roll was called, +then arms were piled, and according to all appearance the day was to +pass quietly.</p> + +<p>"Towards three o'clock an aid-de-camp arrived with an order. We resumed +our arms; our skirmishers spread themselves over the plain; we followed +slowly; and in twenty minutes we saw the Russian pickets withdraw to the +redoubt. A battery of artillery took post on our right hand, another on +our left, but both considerably in advance. They opened a vigorous fire +upon the enemy, who replied with energy, and soon the redoubt of +Cheverino disappeared behind a cloud of smoke.</p> + +<p>"Our regiment was almost protected from the Russian fire by a ridge. +Their bullets, which seldom came in our direction—for they preferred +aiming them at the artillery—passed over our heads, or at most sent +earth and pebbles in our faces.</p> + +<p>"When we had received the order to advance, my captain looked at me with +an attention which made me pass my hand two or three times over my young +mustache, in the most cavalier manner I could assume. I felt no fear, +save that of being thought to feel it. These harmless cannon-balls +contributed to maintain me in my heroic calmness. My vanity told me that +I ran a real danger, since I was under fire of a battery. I was +enchanted to feel myself so much at my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_725" id="Page_725">[Pg 725]</a></span> ease, and I thought with what +pleasure I should narrate the capture of the redoubt of Cheverino in the +drawing-room of Madame de B——, Rue de Provence.</p> + +<p>"The colonel passed along the front of our company and spoke to me. +'Well!' he said, 'you will see sharp work for your first affair.'</p> + +<p>"I smiled most martially, and brushed my coat-sleeve, on which a ball, +fallen about thirty paces from me, had sent a little dust.</p> + +<p>"It seems the Russians perceived how small was the effect of their round +shot, for they replaced them by shells, which could reach us better in +the hollow where we were posted. A tolerably large fragment of one of +these knocked off my shako and killed a mail beside me.</p> + +<p>"'I congratulate you,' said the captain, as I picked up my shako. 'You +are safe for to-day.' I knew the military superstition which holds the +maxim <i>Non bis in idem</i> to be as applicable on a battle-field as in a +court of justice. I proudly replaced my shako on my head. 'An +unceremonious way of making people bow,' said I, as gaily as I could. +Under the circumstances, this poor joke appeared excellent. 'I +congratulate you,' repeated the captain; 'you will not be hit again, and +to-night you will command a company, for I feel that my turn is coming. +Every time I have been wounded, the officer near me has received a spent +ball, and,' he added in a low voice, and almost ashamed, 'all their +names began with a P.'</p> + +<p>"I affected to laugh at such superstitions. Many would have done as I +did—many would have been struck, as I was, by these prophetic words. As +a raw recruit I understood that I must keep my feelings to myself, and +always appear coldly intrepid.</p> + +<p>"After half an hour the Russian fire sensibly slackened; then we emerged +from our cover to march against the redoubt. Our regiment was composed +of three battalions. The second was charged to take the redoubt in flank +on the side of the gorge; the two others were to deliver the assault. I +was in the third battalion.</p> + +<p>"On appearing from behind the sort of ridge that had protected us, we +were received by several volleys of musketry, which did little harm in +our ranks. The whistling of the bullets surprised me: I turned my head +several times, thus incurring the jokes of my comrades, to whom the +noise was more familiar. 'All things considered,' said I to myself, 'a +battle is not such a terrible thing.'</p> + +<p>"We advanced at storming pace, preceded by skirmishers. Suddenly the +Russians gave three hurras, very distinct ones, and then remained +silent, and without firing. 'I don't like that silence,' said my +captain. 'It bodes us little good.' I thought our soldiers rather too +noisy, and I could not help internally comparing the tumultuous clamour +with the imposing stillness of the enemy.</p> + +<p>"We rapidly attained the foot of the redoubt: the palisades had been +broken, and the earth ploughed by our cannonade. With shouts of '<i>Vive +l'Empereur!</i>' louder than might have been expected from fellows who had +already shouted so much, our soldiers dashed over the ruins.</p> + +<p>"I looked up, and never shall I forget the spectacle I beheld. The great +mass of smoke had arisen, and hung suspended like a canopy twenty feet +above the redoubt. Through a gray mist were seen the Russian grenadiers, +erect behind their half-demolished parapet, with levelled arms, and +motionless as statues. I think I still see each individual soldier, his +left eye riveted on us, the right one hidden by his musket. In an +embrasure, a few feet from us, stood a man with a lighted fuse in his +hand.</p> + +<p>"I shuddered, and thought my last hour was come. 'The dance is going to +begin,' cried my captain. Good-night.' They were the last words I heard +him utter.</p> + +<p>"The roll of drums resounded in the redoubt. I saw the musket muzzles +sink. I shut my eyes, and heard a frightful noise, followed by cries and +groans. I opened my eyes surprised to find myself still alive. The +redoubt was again enveloped in smoke. Dead and wounded men lay all +around me. My captain was stretched at my feet; his head had been +smashed by a cannon-ball, and I was covered with his blood and brains. +Of the whole company, only six men and myself were on their legs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_726" id="Page_726">[Pg 726]</a></span></p> + +<p>"A moment of stupefaction followed this carnage. Then the colonel, +putting his hat on the point of his sword, ascended the parapet, crying +'<i>Vive l'Empereur!</i>' He was instantly followed by all the survivors. I +have no clear recollection of what then occurred. We entered the +redoubt, I know not how. They fought hand to hand in the middle of a +smoke so dense that they could not see each other. I believe I fought +too, for my sabre was all bloody. At last I heard a shout of victory, +and, the smoke diminishing, I saw the redoubt completely covered with +blood and dead bodies. About two hundred men in French uniform stood in +a group, without military order, some loading their muskets, others +wiping their bayonets. Eleven Russian prisoners were with them.</p> + +<p>"Our colonel lay bleeding on a broken tumbril. Several soldiers were +attending to him, as I drew near—'Where is the senior captain?' said he +to a sergeant. The sergeant shrugged his shoulders in a most expressive +manlier. 'And the senior lieutenant?' 'Here is <i>Monsieur</i>, who joined +yesterday,' replied the sergeant, in a perfectly calm tone. The colonel +smiled bitterly. 'You command in chief, sir,' he said to me; 'make haste +to fortify the gorge of the redoubt with those carts, for the enemy is +in force; but General C. will send you a support.'—'Colonel,' said I, +'you are badly wounded.'—'<i>Foutre, mon cher</i>, but the redoubt is +taken.'"</p> + +<p>"Carmen," M. Mérimée's latest production, appeared a few months since in +the <i>Revue des Deux Mondes</i>, which appears to have got the monopoly of +his pen, as it has of many of the cleverest pens in France. "Carmen" is +a graceful and animated sketch, in style as brilliant as anything by the +same author—in the character of its incidents less strikingly original +than some of his other tales. It is a story of Spanish life, not in +cities and palaces, in court or camp, but in the barranca and the +forest, the gipsy suburb of Seville, the woodland bivouac and smuggler's +lair. Carmen is a gipsy, a sort of Spanish Esmeralda, but without the +good qualities of Hugo's charming creation. She has no Djali; she is +fickle and mercenary, the companion of robbers, the instigator of +murder. She inveigles a young soldier from his duty, leads him into +crime, deceives and betrays him, and finally meets her death at his +hand. M. Mérimée has been much in Spain, and—unlike some of his +countrymen, who apparently go thither with the sole view of spying out +the nakedness of the land and making odious comparisons, and who, in +their excess of patriotic egotism, prefer Versailles to the Alhambra, +and the Bal Mabille to a village <i>fandango</i>—he has a vivid perception +of the picturesque and characteristic, of the <i>couleur locale</i>, to use +the French term, whether in men or manners, scenery or costume, and he +embodies his impressions in pointed and sparkling phrase. As an +antiquarian and linguist, he unites qualities precious for the due +appreciation of Spain. Well-versed in the Castilian, he also displays a +familiarity with the Cantabrian tongue—that strange and difficult +<i>Vascuense</i> which the Evil One himself, according to a provincial +proverb, spent seven years of fruitless labour in endeavouring to +acquire. And he patters Romani, the mysterious jargon of the gitanos, in +a style no way inferior—so far as we can discover—to Bible Borrow +himself. That gentleman, by the bye, when next he goes a missionarying, +would find M. Mérimée an invaluable auxiliary, and the joint narrative +of their adventures would doubtless be in the highest degree curious. +The grave earnestness of the Briton would contrast curiously with the +lively half-scoffing tone of the witty and learned Frenchman. Indeed, +there would be danger of persons of such opposite character falling out +upon the road, and fighting a mortal duel, with the king of the gipsies +for bottle-holder. The proverbial jealousy between persons of the same +trade might prove another motive of strife. Both are dealers in the +romantic. And "Carmen," related as the personal experience of the author +during an archæological tour in Andalusia the autumn of 1830, is as +graphic and fascinating as any chapters of the great tract-monger's +remarkable wanderings.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> It was a rule with the <i>raffinés</i> not to commence a new +quarrel so long as there was an old one to terminate.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_727" id="Page_727">[Pg 727]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="HOW_TO_BUILD_A_HOUSE_AND_LIVE_IN_IT" id="HOW_TO_BUILD_A_HOUSE_AND_LIVE_IN_IT"></a>HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND LIVE IN IT.</h2> + + +<h3>NO. III.</h3> + +<p>Having disposed of two grand categories of mistakes and absurdities in +house-building, viz., lightness of structure and badness of material, we +shall now address ourselves more particularly to the defects of +Arrangement and Form, or, as an architect might term it, to the +discussion of Plan and Elevation. The former task was ungrateful enough; +for therein we had to attack the cupidity and meanness, and the desire +for show and spurious display, which is the besetting sin of every +Englishman who pays poor-rates; but, the present undertaking is hardly +less hopeless, for we have to appeal to the intelligence, not only of +architects and builders, but also of those who commission them.</p> + +<p>Now, there is nothing drier and more unprofitable under the sun, nothing +more nearly approaching to a state of addle, than a builder's brains. +Your regular builders (and, indeed, not a few of your architects) are +the sorriest animals twaddling about on two legs; mere vivified bags of +sawdust, or lumps of lath and plaster, galvanised for a while, and +forming themselves into strange, uncouth, unreasonable shapes. A mere +"builder" has not two ideas in his head; he has only one; he can draw +only one "specification," as he calls it, under different forms; he can +make only one plan; he has one set of cornices always in his eye; one +peculiar style of panel; one special cut of a chimney. You may trace him +all through a town, or across a county, if his fame extends so far; a +dull repetition of the same notion characterises all his works. He +served his apprenticeship to old Plumbline, in Brick Lane; got up the +<i>Carpenter's Vade-Mecum</i> by heart; had a little smattering of drawing +from Daub the painter, and then set up in business for himself. As for +Mr Triangle the architect, who built the grand town-hall here, the +other-day, in the newest style of Egyptian architecture, and copied two +mummies for door-posts, and who is now putting up the pretty little +Gothic church for the Diocesan Church-and-Chapel-Building and +Pew-Extension Society, with an east window from York, and a spire from +Salisbury, and a west front from Lincoln—why, he is the veriest stick +of a designer that ever applied a T-square to a stretching-board. He has +studied Wilkins's Vitruvius, it is true, and he has looked all through +Hunt's Tudor Architecture, but his imagination is as poor as when he +began them; he has never in his life seen one of the good buildings he +is pirating from, barring St Paul's and Westminster Abbey; he knows +nothing finer than Regent Street and Pall-Mall, and yet he pretends to +be a modern Palladio. It will not do, all this sham and parade of +knowledge; we want a new generation, both of architects and builders, +before we shall see any thing good arising in the way of houses—but as +this new progeny is not likely to spring up within a few days, nor even +years, we may as well buckle to the task of criticism at once, and find +out faults, which we shall leave others to mend.</p> + +<p>And, to lay the foundation of criticism in such matters once more and +for ever, let us again assert that good common-sense, and a plain +straight-forward perception of what is really useful, and suited to the +wants of climate and locality, are worth all the other parts of any +architect's education. These are the great qualities, without which he +will take up his rulers and pencils in vain; without them, his ambitious +<i>façades</i> and intricate plans will all come to nothing, except dust and +rubbish. He may draw and colour like Barry himself; but unless he has +some spark of the genius that animated old Inigo and Sir Christopher, +some little inkling of William of Wickham's spirit within him, some +sound knowledge of the fitness and the requirements of things, he had +better throw down his instruments,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_728" id="Page_728">[Pg 728]</a></span> and give it up as a bad job; he'll +only "damn himself to lasting shame."</p> + +<p>A moderate degree of science, an ordinarily correct eye, so as to tell +which is straightest, the letter I or the letter S, and a good share of +plain common-sense—these are the real qualifications of all architects, +builders, and constructors whatsoever.</p> + +<p>One other erroneous idea requires to be upset; the notion that our +modern houses, merely because they are recent, are better built and more +convenient than ancient ones. If there be one thing more certain than +another in the matter, it is this, that a gentleman's house built in +1700, is far handsomer, stronger, and more convenient, than one built in +1800; and not only so, but if it had had fair play given it, would still +outlive the newer one, and give it fifty years to boot;—and also that +another house built in 1600, is stronger than the one raised in 1700, +and has still an equal chance of survivorship; but that any veteran +mansion which once witnessed the year 1500, is worth all the other three +put together—not only for design and durability, but also for comfort +and real elegance. Pick out a bit of walling or roofing some four or +five centuries old, and it would take a modern erection of five times +the same solidity to stand the same test of ages.</p> + +<p>Let it not be supposed that our ancestors dwelt in rooms smaller, or +darker, or smokier, than those we now cram ourselves into. Nothing at +all of the kind; they knew what ease was, better than we do. They had +glorious bay-windows, and warm chimney-corners, and well-hung buttery +hatches, and good solid old oak tables, and ponderous chairs: had their +windows and doors been only a little more air-tight, their comforts +could not have been increased.</p> + +<p>First of all, then, with regard to the plans best suited for the country +residences of the nobility and gentry of England—of that high-minded +and highly gifted aristocracy, which is the peculiar ornament of this +island,—of that solid honest squirearchy, which shall be the +sheet-anchor of the nation, after all our commercial gents, with their +ephemeral prosperity, shall have disappeared from the surface of the +land, and have been forgotten,—the plan of a house best suited for the +"Fine old English Gentleman;" and we really do not care to waste our +time in considering the convenience and the taste of any that do not +rank with this class of men. It is absurd for any of the worthy members +of that truly noble and generous class of men, to try to erect +reminiscences of Italy, or any other southern clime, amid their own +"tall ancestral groves" at home, here in old England. They have every +right in the world to inhabit the palaces of Italy, which many a needy +owner is glad to find them tenanting; they cannot but admire the noble +proportions, the solid construction, the magnificent decorations, which +meet their eyes on every side, whether at Genoa, at Verona, at Venice, +at Florence, or at Rome. But it by no means follows, that what looks so +beautiful, and is so truly elegant and suitable on the Lake of Como, +will preserve the same qualities when erected on the banks of +Windermere; those lovely villas that overlook the <i>Val d'Arno</i>, and +where one could be content to spend the rest of one's days, with +Petrarch and Boccacio, and Dante, and Michael Angelo, and Raffaelle, +will not bear transplanting either to Richmond or Malvern. The climate +and the sky and the earth of Tuscany and Piedmont, are not those of +Gloucestershire and Warwickshire; what may be very harmonious in form +and colour when contrasted with the objects of that country which +produced it, may have the most disagreeable effect, and be excessively +inconvenient, in another region with which it has no relation. Not that +the proportions of style and the execution of detail may not be +reproduced in England, if sufficient taste and money be applied,—but +that all surrounding things are out of harmony with the very idea and +existence of the building. The vegetable world is different: the +external and internal qualities of the soil jar with the presence of the +foreign-looking mansion. An English garden is not, nor can be, an +Italian one; an English terrace can never be made to look like an +Italian one; those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_729" id="Page_729">[Pg 729]</a></span> very effects of light and shade on which the +architect counted when he made his plans and elevations, are not to be +attained under an English sky. The house, however closely it may be +taken from the last Palazzo its noble owner lived in, will only be a +poor-looking copy after all; and he will wonder, as he paces through its +corridors and halls, or views it from every point of the compass on the +outside, what can be the cause of such a failure of his hopes? He hoped +for and expected an impossibility; he thought to raise up a little Italy +in the midst of his Saxon park. Could the experiment end in any thing +else than a failure?</p> + +<p>Every climate and every country has its own peculiarities, which the +inhabitants are found to consult, and which all architects will do well +to observe closely before they lay down their plans. The general +arrangement, the plan of a house, will depend upon this class of +external circumstances more than on any other; while the architectural +effect and design of the elevation will have an intimate relation to the +physical appearance of the region, to the ideas, the pursuits, and the +history of its people.</p> + +<p>Thus it was with the ancient Greeks and Romans, as we find their +domestic life revealed to us at Pompeii. In that delicious climate of +Campania, where the sun shines with a whitening and ever unclouded +splendour, and where winter's frosts may be said to be unknown, the +great thing wanted was shady coolness, privacy, and the absence of all +that might fatigue. Hence, in the arrangement of the Pompeian villas, +windows were comparatively unknown: the rooms were lighted from above; +the aperture for the light was open to the sky; whatever air could be +procured was precious. Colonnades and dark passages were first-rate +appendages of a fashionable man's habitation. His sleeping apartment was +a dark recess impervious to the sun's rays, lighted only by the +artificial glare of lamps, placed on those elegant candelabra, which +must be admired as models of fitness and beauty as long as imitative art +shall exist. He had not a staircase in all his house, or he would not +have if he could help it. The fatigue of lifting the foot in that hot +climate was a point of importance, and he carefully avoided it. The +house was a regular <i>frigidarium</i>. It answered the end proposed. It was +commodious, it was elegant—and it was therefore highly suitable to the +people and the place. But it does not therefore follow that it ought to +be imitated in a northern clime, nor indeed in any latitude, we would +rather say in any country, except Italy itself. Few parts of France and +Germany would admit of such erections—some portions of Spain and Greece +might. In Greece, indeed, the houses are much after the same plan, but +in Spain only portions of the south-eastern coast would allow of such a +style of building being considered at all habitable.</p> + +<p>Place, then, a Pompeian villa at Highgate or Hampstead—build up an +Atrium with an Impluvium, add to it a Caldarium if you please, and a +Viridarium, too,—and <i>omne quod exit in um</i>: but you will not thereby +produce a good dwelling-house; far from it, you will have a show-box fit +for Cockneys to come and gape at: but nothing else.</p> + +<p>Now, if we would only follow the same rule of common sense that the +Greek or Roman architect did on the shores of the Parthenopœan Gulf, +we should arrive at results, different indeed, but equally congruous to +our wants, equally correct and harmonious in idea. What is it that we +want in this foggy, damp, and cloudy climate of ours, nine days out of +every ten? Do we want to have a spacious colonnade and a portico to keep +off every ray of a sun only too genial, only too scorching? Is the +heavens so bright with his radiance that we should endeavour to escape +from his beams? Are we living in an atmosphere of such high temperature +that if we could now and then take off our own skins for a few minutes, +we should be only too glad to do so? As far as our own individual +sensations are concerned, we would that things were so; but we know from +unpleasant experience that they are far otherwise.</p> + +<p>We believe that every rational householder will agree with us, that the +first thing to be guarded against in this country is cold, next<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_730" id="Page_730">[Pg 730]</a></span> wet, +and thirdly darkness. A man who can really prove that he possesses a +thoroughly warm, dry, and well-lighted house, may write himself down as +a <i>rerum dominus</i> at once: a favoured mortal, one of Jove's right-hand +men, and a pet of all the gods. He is even in imminent danger of some +dreadful calamity falling upon him, inasmuch as no one ever attains to +such unheard-of prosperity without being visited by some reverse of +fortune. He is at the top of the fickle goddess's wheel, and the least +impulse given to one of its many spokes must send him down the slippery +road of trouble. Nevertheless, though difficult to attain, these three +points are the main ones to be aimed at by every English builder and +architect; let him only keep them as the stars by which he steers his +course, and he will come to a result satisfactory in the end.</p> + +<p>One other point is of importance to be attended to as a <i>fundamental</i> +one, and indeed as one of superstruction too. From the peculiarly +changeable nature of our climate, and from the provision that has to be +made for thoroughly warming a house, there is always a danger of the +ventilation and the drainage being neglected. Not one architect in a +hundred ever allows such "insignificant" points as these to disturb his +reveries. All that he is concerned in is his elevation, and his neatly +executed details; but whether the inhabitants are stifled in their beds +with hot foul air, or are stunk out of their rooms by the effluvia of +drains, are to him mere bagatelles. No trifles these, to those who have +to live in the house; no matter of insignificance to those who have an +objection to the too frequent visits of their medical attendant.</p> + +<p>In the first place, then, a gentleman's country house (we are adverting +here to country residences alone—to those in the metropolitan haunts of +men we shall return hereafter) should be thoroughly warm. Now, of course +a man may make a fire-place as big as Soyer's great range at +Crockford's—poor dear Crocky's, before it was reformed—and he may burn +a sack of coals at a time in it; and he may have one of these in each +apartment and lobby of his house—and a pretty warm berth he will then +have of it; but it would be no thanks to his architect that he should +thus be forced to encourage his purveyor of the best Wallsend. No: +either let him see that the walls are of a good substantial +thickness—none of the thin, hollow, badly set, sham walls of the +general run of builders; but made either of solid blocks of good ashlar +stone, with well-rammed rubble between, and this rubble again laid in an +all-penetrating bed of properly sanded mortar with plenty of lime in it, +and laid on hot, piping, steaming hot, if possible—and the joints of +the stones well closed with cement or putty; or else let the walls be +made of the real red brick, the clay two years old or more, well laid in +English bond, and every brick in its own proper and distinct bed of +mortar, as carefully made as before, and the joints cemented into the +bargain. Nor let any stone wall be less than thirty-six, nor any brick +wall than thirty inches thick; whereas, if the house exceeds two stories +in height, some additional inches may yet be added to the thickness of +the lower walls. These walls shall be proof against all cold, and, if +they be not made of limestone, against wet also.</p> + +<p>"But all this is horridly expensive! why, a house built after this +fashion would cost three times the amount of any one now erected upon +the usual specifications!" Of course it would. Materials and labour are +not to be had gratuitously; but then, if the house costs three times as +much, it will be worth three times more than what it would otherwise +fetch, and it will last more than three times as long. "But what is the +use of building for posterity? what does it matter whether the house is +a good one in the time of the next possessor but six? Why not 'run up' a +building that will have a handsome appearance in the present, my own +life-time, and if my descendant wishes for a better one and a warmer +one, why let him build another for himself? Add to which it will grow so +dreadfully old-fashioned in fifty years hence, that it is a hundred to +one if it is not voted a nuisance, and pulled down as an eyesore to the +estate." Such is the reasoning commonly used when any architect more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_731" id="Page_731">[Pg 731]</a></span> +honest, more scientific, and more truly economical in his regard for his +employer's means, ventures to recommend the building of a mansion upon +principles, and with dimensions, which can alone fully satisfy the +exigencies of his art. We take leave, however, to observe, that such +ought not to be the reasoning of an English nobleman or gentleman. In +the first place, what is really erected in a proper and legitimate style +of architecture, be it classical or mediæval, can never become +"old-fashioned" or ugly. Is Hampton Court old-fashioned and ugly? is +Audley End so? are Burghleigh and Hatfield so? If they are, go and build +better. Is Windsor Castle so? yes, a large portion of it is, for its +architecture is not very correct; and though it has been erected only so +few years, in another fifty the reigning sovereign—if there be a +sovereign in England in those days—will pull down most of it, and +consider it as sham and as trumpery as the Pavilion has at length been +found out to have been all along. True; if you build houses in a false +and affected and unreal style of architecture, they are ugly from the +very beginning; and they will become as old-fashioned as old Buckingham +House or Strawberry Hill itself, perhaps in the life-time of him who +owns them; or else, like Fonthill, they will crumble about your ears, +and remain as monuments of your folly rather than of your taste. But go +and build as Thorpe, or Inigo Jones, or Wren used to build. Or even, if +you will travel abroad for your models, take Palladio himself for your +guide, or Phillbert Delorme, or Ducerceau, or Mansard; and your +erections shall stand for centuries, and become each year more and more +harmoniously beautiful.</p> + +<p>Next, your house should be dry; do not, then, go and build it with a +slightly-framed low-pitched roof, nor place it in that part of your +grounds which would be very suitable for an artificial lake, but not for +your mansion. Do not be afraid of a high roof; but let it tower up +boldly into the air; let there be, as the French architects of old used +to term it most expressively, a good "forest" of timber in its framing; +cover it with lead, if you can—if not, with flag-stones, or else, if +these be too dear, with extra thick slates in as large slabs as can be +conveniently worked, and as may be suitable to the framing,—least of +all with tiles.</p> + +<p>"But, good Lord! what ideas you have got of expense! Why, sir, do you +know that such a house would cost a great deal of money! and besides +this, I am almost certain that in ancient Rome, the houses had quite +flat roofs, and even in Italy, at the present day, the palaces have +remarkably low-pitched roofs!" Rome and Italy go to the —— Antipodes! +Did you not stipulate that the house should be dry? do you think that +the old Italians ever saw a good shower of rain in all their lives? did +they? "<i>Nocte pluit totâ</i>," is all very well in the poet's fugitive +inscription; but did they ever see a six-weeks' rain, such as we have +every autumn and spring, and generally in June and July, to say nothing +of January and February, in Devonshire? My dear sir, if you wish to lie +dry in your bed, and all your family, too, to the seventh generation, +downwards, make your roof suited to the quantity of rain that falls; +pitch up its sides not less steeply than forty-five degrees, and do not +be afraid if it rises to sixty, and so gives you the true mediæval +proportion of the equilateral triangle. Do you consider it ugly? Then we +will ornament it; and we will make the chimney-stalks rise with some +degree of majesty, into an important feature of the architectural +physiognomy of the building. Are you grumbling at the expense, as you +did just now about that of the walls? What then! are you a Manchester +manufacturer, some dirty cotton-spinner? have you no faith in the +future? have you no regard for the dignity and comfort of your family? +are you, too, bitten with the demoralising commercial spirit of the age? +are you all for self and the present? have you no obligations towards +your ancestors? and are you unwilling to leave a name to be talked of by +your posterity? Why, to be sure it may tighten you up for five or six +years; but then do not stop quite so long in London: make your season +there rather shorter, and do not go so often to Newmarket, and keep away +from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_732" id="Page_732">[Pg 732]</a></span> White's or Boodle's, and do not be so mad as to throw away any +more of those paltry thousands in contesting the county. Let the +Parliament and the country take care of themselves; they can very well +spare an occasional debater like yourself; the "glorious constitution" +of old England will take no harm even if <i>you</i> do not assist in +concocting the hum-bug that is every year added to its heterogeneous +mixture. Lay out your money at home, drain your land, build a downright +good house for yourself; do not forget your poor tenants, set them a +good example, and let us put a proper roof on Hambledown Hall.</p> + +<p>Providing, however, that the worthy squire actually consents to pull out +a few more hundreds, for the sake of having walls of proper thickness +and roofs of right pitch, it does not quite follow that his ground-floor +rooms will be dry, unless the mansion is well vaulted underneath, and +well drained, to boot. We have known more than one ancient manor-house, +built in a low dead flat, with a river running by, and the joists of the +ground floor resting on the soil, and, yet the whole habitation as dry +as a bone; but still more numerous are the goodly edifices which we have +witnessed, built on slopes, and even hills, where not a spoonful of +water, you would say, could possibly lodge, and yet their walls outside +all green with damp, and within mildew, and discoloured loose-hanging +paper, telling the tale of the demon of damp. When you are seriously +bent on building a good house, put plenty of money under ground; dig +deep for foundations, lay them better and stronger even than your +super-structure; vault every thing under the lower rooms—ay, vault +them, either in solid stone or brick, and drain and counter drain, and +explore every crick and cranny of your sub-soil; and get rid of your +land springs; and do not let the water from any neighbouring hill +percolate through your garden, nor rise into a pleasing <i>jet-d'eau</i> +right under the floor of your principal dining-room. If you can, and if +you do not mind the "old-fashioned" look of the thing, dig a good deep +fosse all round your garden, and line it with masonry; and have a couple +of bridges over it; you may then not only effectually carry off all +intruding visits of the watery sprites, but you may keep off hares from +your flower-beds, two-legged cats from your larder, and sentimental +"cousins" from your maids. You may thus, indeed, make your hall or +mansion into a little fortified place, with fosse and counter-scarp, and +covered way, and glacis; or at any rate, you may put a plain English +haw-haw ditch and fence all round the sacred enclosure; and depend upon +it that you will find the good effects of this extra expense in the +anti-rheumatic tendencies of your habitation.</p> + +<p>And now for the plan of your mansion, for the Ground Plan—the main part +of the business, that, on the proper proportioning and arranging of +which the success of your edificative experiment entirely depends. Here +take the old stale maxim into immediate and constant use, "Cut your coat +according to your cloth;" and, if you are a man of only £2000 a-year, do +not build a house on a plan that will require £10,000 at least of annual +income to keep the window-shutters open. Nor, seeing that you are living +in the country, attempt to cramp yourself for room, and build a great +tall staring house, such as would pass muster in a city, but is +exceedingly out of place in a park. As a matter of domestic æsthetics, +do not think of giving yourself, and still less any of your guests, the +trouble of mounting up more than one set of stairs to go to bed, but +keep your reception and principal rooms on the ground floor, and your +private rooms, with all the bed-chambers, on the floor above. Since, +however, you have determined on going to the expense of a proper roof, +do not suppose that we are such bad architectural advisers as to +recommend that the roof should be useless. No; here let the female +servants and the children of the family, perhaps, too, a stray bachelor +friend or two, find their lodging; and above all, if you are a family +man, if you have any of those tender yearnings after posterity, which we +hope you have, introduce into the roof a feature which we will remind +you of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_733" id="Page_733">[Pg 733]</a></span> by and by, and for which, if we could only persuade people that +such a very old and useful idea were a new one, and our own, we would +certainly take out a patent.</p> + +<p>There should, then, be only two stories in a gentleman's country +residence, and a dormer or mansard story if we may so term it, in the +roof;—we will not be so vulgar as to call it a garret,—nor yet so +classical as to resort to the appellation of an attic. If, therefore, +you require a large house, take plenty of ground, and lay out all your +rooms <i>en suite</i>. Let all the offices, whence any noise or smell can +arise, be perfectly detached from the dwelling part of the +mansion:—such as the kitchens, sculleries, laundries, &c. They should +all be collected into a court with the coach-houses and stables on the +outside, and the whole range of the domestic offices on the other. Never +allow a kitchen to be placed under the same roof as your dining-room or +drawing-room: cut it off completely from the <i>corps de logis</i>, and let +it only communicate by a passage;—so shall you avoid all chance of +those anticipatory smells, the odour of which is sufficient to spoil +your appetite for the best dressed dinner in the world. If you would +have any use for the vault under your house, keep all your cellar +stores, and all your "dry goods" there;—it will be a test of your house +being well-built if they do not show any effects of damp after a few +months' stowage below the level of the soil, yet in <i>aere pleno</i>. We do +not mean to say that we would put one of our best and newest saddles, +nor our favourite set of harness, in one of the lower vaults, to judge +of the dampness of the house; but depend upon it, a pair or two of old +shoes form excellent hygrometers; and you may detect the "dew-point" +upon them with wonderful accuracy.</p> + +<p>"But only look at how you are increasing the cost of the house by thus +stretching out the house, and really wasting the space and +ground!"—What! still harping on the same string—that eternal +purse-string!—still at the gold and the notes? If you go on at this +rate, my good sir, you will never do any thing notable in the +house-line. Take a lesson from Louis XIV. when he built +Versailles;—that sovereign had at least this one good quality,—he had +a supreme contempt for money;—it cost him a great deal no doubt, but it +is "Versailles," <i>nec pluribus impar</i>;—why, it is a quarter of a mile +long, and there is, or rather was, room in it to have lodged all the +crowned heads of Europe, courts, ministers, guards, and all. Never stint +yourself for space; the ground you build on is your own; it is only the +extra brick and mortar;—the number of windows is not increased by +stretching the plan out, the internal fittings are not an atom more +expensive. Be at ease for once in your life, and cast about widely for +room.</p> + +<p>And now, dear sir, if you can but once remove this prejudice of cost +from your mind, you may set at defiance all those twaddling architects +who come to you with their theories of the "smallest spaces of support," +and who would fain persuade you that, because it is scientific to build +many rooms with few materials, <i>therefore</i> you ought to dwell in a house +erected on such principles,—and that they ought to build it for you. +You may send them all to the right-about with their one-sided contracted +notions: is the house to be built for <i>your</i> sake or for <i>theirs</i>? who +is going to inherit it—you or they? who is to find out all the comforts +and discomforts of the mansion—the owner or the architect?—If <i>you</i>, +then keep to your two stories and to the old English method of building +your house round one or more courts. Go upon the old palatial, baronial, +or collegiate plan; no matter what may be the style of architecture you +adopt, this plan will be found suitable to any. The advantages of it are +as follows: first of all, it gives you the opportunity of having your +rooms all <i>en suite</i>, and yet not crowded together; next, it is more +sociable for the inmates of a large country mansion to have the windows +of their apartments looking partly inwards, as it were to the centre of +the house, and partly outwards to the surrounding scenery: and thirdly, +it requires and it gives the opportunity of having that most admirable +and most useful appendage of any large mansion,—a cloister, or covered +gallery, running round the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_734" id="Page_734">[Pg 734]</a></span> whole interior of the court, either +projecting from the plane of the walls—and, if so, becoming highly +ornamental; or else formed within the walls, and, if so, giving an +unusual degree of warmth and ventilation. In this damp and uncertain +climate of ours, just consider how many days there are in the course of +the year, when the ladies and the children of a family cannot stir out +of doors, not even into the gardens; and then think of what a comfort it +would be to have a dry and airy and elegant promenade and place of +exercise within their own walls. Then the children may scamper about, if +it be, a proper cloister external to the house, and make that joyous +noise which is so essential to their health, without any fear of +annoying even the most nervous of mammas. Within an instant they may all +be under her own personal inspection, and yet they may have their +perfect freedom. Here may the ladies of the family walk for hours on a +wet day, and enjoy themselves without trouble, and with the facility of +being at home again in a minute. If the court is well laid out as a +flowery parterre, and the green-house is made to contribute its proper +supply of plants to the cloister, it becomes converted into a kind of +conservatory, and forms of itself an artificial or winter garden. Both a +cloister, and an internal corridor with windows opening into the former, +may very appropriately be constructed together, and then the +accommodation of this plan is complete.</p> + +<p>Whoever has lived in a cloistered and court-built house will know the +convenient and comfortable feature we would here point out:—it is +especially suited to the climate of England, and to the domestic habits +of English families; it is one of the most ornamental features a house +can possess; it gives great facilities to the waiting of the servants; +it makes the house warm rather than cold; and it adds greatly to the +comfort of the whole. As for the additional cost—let the cost be——! +have we not entered our caveat against all such shabby pleas? Take this +along with you, good sir,—do the thing well, or don't do it at all.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_735" id="Page_735">[Pg 735]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="A_TURKISH_WATERING-PLACE" id="A_TURKISH_WATERING-PLACE"></a>A TURKISH WATERING-PLACE.</h2> + + +<p>Ten days ago, when snowed up by winter, recurrent for the third time +this season, I could not compel myself to the recollection of my Adalian +experiences. Now that I am sitting with window thrown wide open, and +with fire raked out, the spirit of the scene encourages memories of my +visit to that very hot emporium of Caramania.</p> + +<p>We had been kept on the Smyrna station till we pretty well knew it under +every changing phase of season. Through the rigour of winter we had been +brought now to the very flagrance of the dog-star, to the time when +human nature can pretend no opposition to the mood of the lordly sun. +Even late in the autumn, these clear skies afford so little interruption +to the tide of sunbeams, that one is not quite exempt from risk of <i>coup +de soleil</i>. Indeed this is perhaps the very time when the untutored +stranger is particularly exposed to this danger. It is the only time of +the year when travelling can be pursued as a serious occupation; or when +one of the pale-faced Occidentals can venture forth <i>sub dio</i> at +mid-day, without positive madness. During the months that, on the +admission of the indigenous, do duty as summer, the state of things is +so evidently beyond a joke, that no idea of trifling therewith enters +into the most unsophisticated mind. Life is reduced to something very +like a resignation of the sturdy substance of the day, and a diligent +employment of the two fag-ends. The intervening hours must be slept +away, or read away, or somehow employed without the requisition of +corporeal activity. And, considering that these are the hours during +which musquitoes vex not, and lesser tormentors of the rampant kind are +inactive, it is no slight boon to have such an interval, during some +part of which you may sleep in peace. As for the night, you may use it +for eating ices, or strolling on the Marina, or pulling out on the +phosphorescent waters of the bay; but unless you be very fresh, you will +hardly think of using that as the time for turning in. And thus are +rendered grateful those slumbers which are induced by the prevailing +spirit of noon. Of course, under such conditions of existence, there is +no great probability that much risk will be encountered by any one +gifted with the ordinary instinct of self-preservation. Should any one +be foolhardy enough to dare for himself the experiment, he would +scarcely find a <i>surridgi</i> to furnish animals, or a guide willing to +pilot him. And should he even make a start of it, am I not the very man +to know what a lesson he would get in the course of the first six hours +of his march; and to predict that he would, should any brains be then +remaining to him, turn back on the strength of that same sample? It is +only a very young, and somewhat foolish person, who would be at all +likely to be found in this predicament. The dissuasion of the indigenous +is so earnest, and so without exception, that, considering their +knowledge of the facts, a prudent stranger must perceive in them the +substance of reason. The Asiatics, perhaps, carry a little too far the +dread of exposure to the atmospheric influences of summer; for they are +careful to shut out even the cool breezes of night, and dread the odour +of freshness that a shower calls forth from the earth. This delightful +exhalation they affirm to be the producer of fever. But indeed we may +concede to them the entertaining of some whimsies on this subject, as +being the necessary contingencies on their fatal experiences of marsh +<i>malaria</i>.</p> + +<p>Happy we Englishmen and Scotsmen, who know not what this <i>malaria</i> +means! The worst story on the subject that I remember was a personal +adventure of my friend Beard. The scene of this adventure is a little +out of the way of Adalia, but it may serve to illustrate the style of +thing prevailing generally in this direction any where within hail of a +marsh. Beard was engaged in that (to those who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_736" id="Page_736">[Pg 736]</a></span> like it) delightful, but +occasionally perilous duty of surveying. This involves the being sent +away in the boats for weeks at a stretch, during which time you go +groping along the coast, or threading out-of-the-way channels between +islands. It is easy to conceive that with fine weather, and healthy +shores, this must be a welcome duty to a young officer, full of zeal, +and unaccustomed to command. But sometimes the course will lie along +deadly shores, past which you must creep, and snatch hydrographical +facts from the teeth of death. Beard, poor fellow—and yet, considering +that he lives to tell the tale, we should rather congratulate than +pity—Beard was in command of a party of seven. Any one who knows the +service, knows that an officer accustomed to command a particular boat, +if he be a good fellow, acquires a strong fellow-feeling for and with +his men. This is but human nature, seeing that they are subject to +frequent and long isolations from the rest of the ship's company. I have +felt this influence strongly myself, and am persuaded that a sailor is +never so amiable a being as when away from his ship and from +civilisation, on some scrambling boat-expedition. He then puts off +altogether that selfishness of bearing which it often suits his humour +while on board to affect. Beard was one who entered fully into the +spirit of these expeditions; indeed he might have led one to suppose +that he would willingly have agreed to pass his life in a boat. On this +particular occasion they were coasting along Thessaly—those shores so +beautiful to look at, but of which the beauty, when the mists of night +descend upon them, reek with the breath of death. They proceeded +cautiously; and as their labours were protracted into new days and +weeks, and none of their little band had been stricken, they began to +hope, and perhaps to believe themselves seasoned and safe. The time for +them to rejoin the ship at last arrived, and not a man had been ill. One +man did indeed complain in the morning, but he laid in his oar, and they +hoped would soon be better. Presently another was forced to claim the +same exemption, and another. In short, they reached the ship with great +difficulty, and as by miracle, and not one of the party could mount the +side. They were all hoisted in, and in a few hours the only man of the +party who lived was my friend. In the pretty island of Sciathos is a +tomb, wherein sleep the whole party save that one. I have stood by this, +and read in the sad story of its inscription a sufficient warning on the +subject of marsh <i>malaria</i>. Once or twice I have come in its way, but +never willingly, and happily always without calamitous result. Once only +I have slept within its problematical range, and that was off that +pestiferous bit of coast near Epidaurus, and I fancy at a season when +the marshes had not their steam up.</p> + +<p>We had among us a lesson, but not of this melancholy character, on the +absurdity of attempting to brave the daylight heat of summer. It is so +natural for an Englishman to look upon the mere natives of any place to +which he may come in his travels, as cheats and ignoramuses, that we, as +a matter of course, and most complacently, admitted the natives <i>en +masse</i> and every where to that rating. In the course of our vagaries we +stumbled on the pretty island of Mytilene, in the very piping hours of +summer. Very cool and pleasant did it look to us shipmen, hanging down +its umbrageous olive groves nearly to the water's edge—and very +pleasant should we have found it to be, had we been content to defer our +landing till the authorised hour of eventide. But besides that the place +looked so inviting, we felt bound to give way to a little enthusiasm at +this approach to the birthplace of the lady who gave Horace the model of</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Jam satis terris nivis atque diræ" &c.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>so nothing could hold us in from immediate disembarkation, and a cross +country ride. We went right across from one harbour to another—for it +has two, which between them nearly bisect the island. But so frightful +was the heat, that nothing but youth and English blood exempted us from +the penalty of fever. Some of the party were very nearly knocked up +mid-way; and we should scarcely any of us have managed to get back to +the ship as we did, had it not been our fortune<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_737" id="Page_737">[Pg 737]</a></span> to meet a resting-place +in the village of Loutri. Such attempts as this are the causes of the +sad casualties that we occasionally find happening to Eastern +travellers. How many have paid with their lives the penalty of an +unseasonable journey in Syria, especially on the coast between Beyrout +and Jerusalem. Only choose well your time, and you may proceed in +perfect security, so far as the dangers of nature are concerned. Any +attempt at forcing a journey is a folly; and a folly of which the +correction will come with the first experiment, if it leave to the +person any future opportunity of sublunary conduct.</p> + +<p>But no one should mention Mytilene without saving a word or two in +praise of its beauty. All shrivelled up as we were by the heat—for we +were almost past the sudatory stage—we drank in some refreshment from +the scenery. Port Olivet has quite the appearance of a lake, and it is +only when quite at the spot that you perceive the real nature of the +locality. The hills around are finely shaded; and the masses of +olive-trees assumed, in the then lurid glare of sky and water, that +shadowy appearance that we used to see in Turner's pictures. They are +very famous for the production of a fine oil from their olives, which is +the staple commodity of the island, and of which they export +considerable quantities. By all accounts, nature, unassisted, may claim +the praise of this produce, for they are said to be careless +manufacturers. We went into one or two of the εργαστηρια to +witness the process of compression, but could not take it upon our +veracity to utter an opinion anent them. At least they seem in a fair +way to improve their wares; for the new consular agent of France (whom, +by the way, we took to his Barataria) is especially knowing in this +line, and hopes to produce, in a short time, oil that shall be equal to +that of France or Lucca.</p> + +<p>After all this talk about the impossibility of travelling in the summer, +it augurs ill for our account of Adalia, to say that it was the very +heat and rage of summer when we landed there. But as we were not +volunteers on the occasion, we did not choose our own season. Like the +fifty thousand Cossacks who marched off to the East Indies, not because +they liked it, but because they were sent, we were saved all the trouble +of deliberation; and once arrived at the spot, we were sufficiently old +stagers to adapt ourselves to the ways and means of the place. I +remember that we were delighted at the start: catching at the prospect +of change, as at the hope of improvement. Certainly things were bad +enough with us in Smyrna bay at that time. The pitch was boiling in the +seams, the water was hissing along-side; the sky seemed an entire sun, +so truly were the fiery rays rendered back from every part of the +glowing concave. The sea-breeze, one's only solace under such +circumstances, was continually forgetting to come. In spite of the +common profession, that without the sea-breeze it would be impossible to +live hereaway, we continued to pant through days of breezeless +existence. At this time it was that I arrived at the conclusion which is +now established in the code of my economics, that the endurance at +Calcutta or Port Royal is a joke compared with what one has to undergo +in these milder latitudes. The dweller in Anatolia has no such range of +Fahrenheit to alarm him into defensive measures, and thus he falls +comparatively unprepared into the conflict with the dog-days. Your +Bengalee mounts defences of <i>tattees</i> and punkahs that cool down a hot +wind, or whistle air into presence in a trice. Whereas in this part of +the world, as the Sirocco blows, so it must steal into your room, +parching your face, and covering you all over with a clammy stickiness, +through which you may distinctly feel the subdolent shudder of incipient +ague. When he has darkened his room, and spread cool mats on the floor, +the poor Smyrniot has nothing farther that he can do. And if such be the +case of those who dwell within the mansions of Ismir, who have at least +thick walls between them and the sun, what is likely to be the state of +those <i>disgraziatos</i>, who people the busy town of ships in the bay?—the +rash men</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"—digitos a morte remotos<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Quatuor aut septem."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Custom, they say, may bring a man to any thing, as it did M. Chabert to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_738" id="Page_738">[Pg 738]</a></span> +the power of living in an oven; to which achievement, by the way, I +should not wonder if the first step had been the passing of a hot summer +on board ship in harbour. You may any day see, at some of our gigantic +iron-works, custom bringing men to such a pass, that they can endure to +stand before a fire that would be the death and cooking of an ox. And so +I suppose it was by force of custom that we were able to undergo a style +of thing that ought to have been the stewing of any ordinary flesh and +blood. But it was a stupid and languid life that we were leading, +scarcely venturing on deck even beneath the awning, and not dreaming of +shore except quite in the evening. Sometimes a morning's interest would +be excited by some story of plague in the Lazaretto, and a proposed +adjournment of the ship to Vourlah, to be out of harm's way; and such +speculations, though not exactly pleasurable, were at least +anti-stagnative in character. In any thing like decent weather it is not +bad fun to get down to Vourlah for a time, and to fly from the gaieties +of the metropolis to the pleasures of the <i>chasse</i> at Rabbit Island. It +must ever be soothing to a spirit that has not quite forgotten "the +humanities," to walk upon the turf which witnessed the infant gambols of +Anaxagoras; and besides that, the locality is pretty, and worthy of +being visited on its own account. The town is at the distance of some +miles from the Scala, which last is the grand watering-place for the +ships on this station. Some few years ago, when the two fleets, French +and English, were here, an extempore town was devised on the beach, for +the benefit of the thousand and one hangers-on who are always found in +such neighbourhoods. This was a stretch of luxury on their part; for +generally these nautical suttlers need no other shelter than that of the +boat which contains their wares. They are always ready for a start, and +glad to be allowed to follow almost any whither in the wake of a ship. I +should think they might be rated amongst the most honest of their +compatriots, as they certainly may amongst the most hard-working and +courageous.</p> + +<p>But no such luck had been ours, as to be assigned so pleasant an +adjournment. The longest cruise we had any of us managed to steal, was +perhaps in one of the cutters, as far as what we Englishmen persist in +calling St James's castle—a strange name for Turks to give a place, and +which, in fact, we have devisedly corrupted from their word <i>sandjeak</i>.</p> + +<p>At last, one happy day—happy in its result, not in the complexion it +bore at its opening—we positively did receive orders for a start, and +this is the way it came about: The representative of sultanic dignity at +the somewhat retired watering-place of Adalia, was a man prone, like the +greater number of his countrymen, to judge of things altogether in the +concrete. The idea of power could by him be deduced only from present +violence; and without some such sensible manifestations, it became to +him like one of Fichte's "objects," i.e. all moonshine. With regard to +foreign powers, they existed for him, and influenced his government, +only so far as they sent occasionally a ship of war with its suggestive +influence of a frowning broadside to look in his way. They have no very +distinct idea, these gentlemen, of geography, nor of political science; +all thus are sadly out in their estimation of the relative importance of +places. To them the seat of their government is the world; or at least +the place in it of importance second to Constantinople. If they be +passed over in the distribution of our <i>corps de demonstration</i>, they +are apt to ascribe the omission to a want of power on our part. Now, +with all their excellencies, it call hardly be denied that they are +sadly apt to presume on any want of power in a neighbour. So it happens +that the unfortunate consuls who are stowed away in the obscurer +establishments, are apt to suffer from their caprice. Should it so +happen that the particular flag over whose interests the consul is +appointed inspector, should not have been displayed in the neighbourhood +lately by any ship of war, the short memory of a pasha is in danger of +forgetting that nation's claim to respect; for any thing that he knows, +it may have been revolutionised or sunk by an earthquake,—at least he +cannot bear the trouble of imagining any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_739" id="Page_739">[Pg 739]</a></span> other reason for the +non-appearance of its executive ministers, than the obvious one of its +having no ships to send. Thus, in matters of precedence, consuls are apt +sometimes to get snubbed—a point on which, of all others, they are +tender: or in matters of justice, their clients will find themselves +ousted, in spite of the proverbial integrity of the Turkish judges. +Perhaps the readiest way of stumbling on a grievance, is the kind of +thing that gave rise to our visit, where some of the populace presume on +your want of protection, and commit some aggression on your rights as a +man and a brother. This being referred to the authorities, will be apt +to be viewed by them in the light of that consideration which they +happen to be lending at that moment to your nation. Poor fellows! we +must not be hard upon them; nor will we doubt the sound foundation of +the panegyrics which many travellers have pronounced on their honesty. +They are honest, no doubt, so far as they understand the doctrine of the +thing; but the fact is, they do not seem to understand the subject in +the abstract. They have no idea of judging a foreigner's cause, without +reference to considerations of his nationality and personal importance; +and to pronounce readily a decision in favour of one against whom should +lie the preponderance in these particulars, would be to them an +absurdity. We have had occasion lately to be struck with the tone in +which certain writers have spoken on the subject of Mussulman morals. +The first notability about such accounts is, that they are very +different from the reports of their predecessors—of such an accurate +man as Burkhardt for instance; and the second notability, so far as most +of us are concerned, is, that they are contrary to the general consent +of travellers. That there are excellent men, and honest among them, is a +fact; and it is a fact, that in general matters of bargaining, you may +trust to them. But when the idea of probity is carried out, so far as to +imply a view of things comparatively disparaging to Christian morals, it +mounts to an anti-climax, and falls over into the province of nonsense. +The Koran has provided them with much ethical guidance, of which +individual Turks, of any pretence to religion, must be in some degree +observant. But it is not true that the history of such cases, in their +administration of justice, as might have occurred in the court of the +old πολεμαρχος, will allow us to conclude that they are in +possession of a rule coercing them to be just and brotherlike towards +the unprotected stranger, abstractly and for justice's sake. Now, with +us you may find many individual rogues, but never a roguish court, nor +tolerated roguish public body. And of this difference between us +Christians and them Turks, it will not be difficult for any one to +supply the reason, who will give himself the trouble to think about it.</p> + +<p>But as I was saying, at Adalia,—the town I mean, not the +province,—lived, with the authority of local governor, a personage +styled a <i>Caimacan</i>. This is a person inferior to a regular pasha, +having in fact a sort of acting rank. One remembers this style and title +well, because it puts us in mind of the nicest thing eatable that the +Levant affords—<i>Caimac</i>, which is something very like Devonshire cream, +only better. This Caimacan, being a sort of great man's great man, is +apt not to bear his honours meekly. At the precise time of which I +speak, the Sultan was raising considerable levies in different parts of +his dominions, for the benefit of good order among the Albanians. Near +Adalia was a military rendezvous for the forces raised in that +neighbourhood, and the command <i>pro tempore</i> of the new levies was +assigned to the Caimacan. So that the poor man was labouring under an +accession of dignity.</p> + +<p>At Adalia also lived a certain Ionian—from the Seven Islands, friend, +not from Asia—who had been led thither by a speculation in the soap +trade. To judge by the evident want of the article, would have been to +pronounce a most favourable opinion as to the probable result of such +speculation. In fact the man succeeded only too well; he boiled so +successfully, and sold so cheaply, that all the native competitors were +beaten out of the field. The true believers were, of course, indignant +at this conduct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_740" id="Page_740">[Pg 740]</a></span> of an infidel and a stranger; and as they could not +weather on him in the fair way of trade, they determined to try if they +could not "choke his luff" by a practical expedient. Paying him a visit +one day, they spoiled his stock in trade, broke his gear, gave him a +good thrashing, and told him to take that as a gentle hint of what they +would do if he did not behave himself for the future. The poor fellow +appealed to the Caimacan for satisfaction for the injury done, and for +security against future violence. From this person he received no +assistance, and was left to fight it out as he best could against his +opponents.</p> + +<p>Those dear Ionians! creditable fellow-countrymen are they for us, and +profitable. No people assert more unflinchingly their privilege of +national relationship with ourselves, and thus do we get the credit of +all the rows which they may kick up throughout the Mediterranean. It is +highly amusing to see the style in which they will declare themselves to +be Englishmen, not merely as allies and protected for the time being, +but with the implication of a claim to identity of race. A son of Ithaca +or Zante will talk as if he were a true Saxon. Certainly, the Turks seem +to make little distinction between the races. That the men are under +British protection, is for them sufficient reason for esteeming them to +be Englishmen. Sometimes their classification of races shows an amusing +ignorance of, and indifference to the whole set of national distinctions +among Franks. I remember that all who attended the services of the +British chaplaincy at Smyrna, were called English, though among them +were many who could speak scarcely a word of the language; and so all +who went to the dissenting meeting-house (for they have one there) were +called Americans.</p> + +<p>Our poor soap-boiler being reduced to extremity, having lost his goods, +and being afraid to make a fresh start of it, betook himself for +assistance to the English vice-consul. The office was at that time +filled by a very efficient person—one, moreover, who had for many years +resided in the country, and understood well the language and national +genius. But it so happened that just then a long time had elapsed since +any of our men-of-war had paid a visit to the road-stead and consular +dignity was in a condition of proportional depreciation. The consul, +however, as in duty bound, paid his visit of remonstrance, and laid +before the great man the wrong done within his jurisdiction; whereupon +the Caimacan behaved like any thing but a gentleman, and, far from +promising to remedy the ill done, gave him to understand that he did not +care sixpence for soap-boiler or consul either. Mr —— had sufficient +knowledge of the people to know that this declaration of opinion was +strictly true, and that the only plan to correct it, would be to prove +himself able to summon an armed force to his assistance. Till they saw +this, nothing would be able to persuade the Adalians that he was not +either deserted by his country, or that his country had not lost the +power to assist him.</p> + +<p>And thus it was that Mr —— wrote to his chief at Smyrna a description +of the ticklish state of circumstances, and explained that unless +English commercial interests at Adalia were to be suffered to go +altogether to the wall, some strong preservative must be sent thither in +the shape of a stout ship, with a goodly array of long thirty-twos. And +so was it that word came to the good ship Falcon, which thereupon spread +forth her wings, or, in plain language, hoisted her topsails, and set +forth on her conciliatory expedition. Besides that we were delighted to +get away in any direction from the stagnation of Smyrna—a stagnation +affecting air, sea, and society,—it was a recommendation of the cruise +in this particular direction that none of us had ever been there before. +There is little reason why in a general way it should be visited from +one year's end to another,—I mean in the way of business, at least the +business of those who have to distribute their attention throughout +these seas for the interests of general pacification. The place, as we +afterwards found, is not without commerce; but there are no merchants of +our nation except the vice-consul. The advantages of this place as a +trading station, more especially<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_741" id="Page_741">[Pg 741]</a></span> as being a station where he would find +no competitors, had induced him to settle here. And the <i>prestige</i> lent +by the consular name, afforded sufficient inducement for the undertaking +of an office, which, if it be not very lucrative, at any rate involves +the responsibility of no very serious duties. Though now and then a man +in office may forget himself, yet in the long run a consul is sure to be +treated with deference, and to reap considerable commercial advantages +from his position. Be it understood, that here there are other +merchants,—but the indigenous, chiefly Turco-Greek. Besides a single +gentleman who acted as assistant to the vice-consul in his various +duties, we did not find a Frank resident. We heard, indeed, that there +was also an Austrian, but we did not see him, so I suppose that he could +hardly have been of much consequence.</p> + +<p>The weather at first beguiled us with symptoms of a change for the +cooler, and lent to our sails some pleasant breezes as we passed out of +the Gulf of Smyrna. As we sped onward, things became even better, and +especially delighted us with their aspect off Rhodes. It is a singular +fact, well known to those who know the locality, that the day scarcely +occurs in the year when this island is afflicted with a calm. For some +reason it so happens that, pass when you will, you are pretty sure to +find a stiff breeze blowing. One of the points of the island, which +thrusts out into the sea a long and low promontory, shows that the +natives here know how to turn this physical provision to good effect. +This point is in the most curious way studded with windmills, and from +this its garniture has received its name in our geography. These poor +machines rarely know an hour's quiet, but continually throw about their +long arms in what, from a little distance, seems to be a mere confusion +of material. Past this exquisitely beautiful island, of whose strand the +recollection is fraught with associations of unfeverish existence, we +sped rapidly before the breeze, which almost made us regret the land we +were leaving. Truly should we have regretted it, had we but known the +breezeless condition on which we were about to enter! For some +four-and-twenty hours before we arrived at our port, the weather changed +eminently for the worse. The feathery vanes stirred not, and the canvass +flapped against the mast, as the old girl rolled lumpingly in the swell. +She was a dear old ship as ever floated, but like all other things +sublunary, animate, or inanimate, was not without her faults. Of these +the worst, nay, the only one to speak of, was the habit of rolling about +most viciously whenever she had a chance. The sun poured upon us such a +flood of heat, that awnings became a joke. Things were so thoroughly +heated during the day, that the night scarcely afforded sufficient hours +to cool them down, for a fresh start next morning. We began almost to +question whether we had not changed bad for worse; and very soon made up +our minds that without any mistake we had. We arrived at this +conclusion, as the port of our destination hove in sight. It was towards +evening that we crept in to our anchorage, through an atmosphere +scarcely sufficiently alive to give us motion, and so almost glowing +that it seemed to burn us as we passed. The place was wrapped in +breathless stillness: no boats came forth to try a market with us, or to +gratify their curiosity; and no sounds issued from the shore, which +might have been deemed almost unhaunted of men.</p> + +<p>When daylight revealed the features of the place, we perceived the +pretensions of Adalia in the way of the picturesque to be of a high +order. Neither was there wanting matter of admiration even in the night, +though we were suffering too much discomfort to be easily pleased by +mere pictures. The shore, in its way, afforded an unusual spectacle. The +town stands on high ground, and on both sides the line of coast is +formed by lofty cliffs, stretching far away into the distance. What of +the beauties of these depended on the light of day for development, were +reserved for our edification on the morrow. But the good people had +ornamented their country just then in a fashion more appropriate to +embellish the night than the day. Enormous fires were blazing on the +cliffs, which skirted the bay up which we were advancing,—if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_742" id="Page_742">[Pg 742]</a></span> we may +apply so familiar a word to the conflagrations that met our sight. The +most active spirit of incendiarism had been afloat, for entire woods +were seen in a state of burning. We never discovered whether this +destruction was by accident, or of set purpose: if it were done by way +of obtaining charcoal, the price of that article one would think must +have fallen in the market. But as these fires blazed away in the clear +dry air of the night, they lit up the bay, and almost threw upon the +waters the dark shadow of our masts and yards. At first, when at some +distance, we had been disposed to account for the lurid appearance of +the heavens, by supposing that distance and refraction had effected a +cheat upon our senses. When we came nearer, the only thing we could +suppose was, that the whole country, was in the course of destruction. +It is hard to say whether the distance at which we anchored from the +shore was not too great to allow of the production on us of any sensible +effect from these fires: that we had any misgiving on the subject may +serve to show that they were enormous. I know that at the time we made +up our minds, that to their agency was to be attributed some portion at +least of the heat that oppressed us. The wind came off in gusts of +overpowering heat; not with that tepid influence that grumblers +sometimes denounce as a hot wind, but with the full sense of having come +from a baker's oven. At least we had a grand sight for our pains, and +therefrom reaped some consolation as we clustered panting on the deck.</p> + +<p>I remember to have seen something in this way before, though on a +smaller scale, and that was in the island of Eubœa. Once in my life, +I had a very near view of the recent scene of such a conflagration in +one of the smaller Greek islands. It was in taking, according to our +custom, a ramble right across the land, that we came on no less a +collection of embers than the <i>debris</i> of an entire forest, which lay +smouldering at our feet. I know that, having commenced from curiosity +the work of picking our way through the ashes, we found the undertaking +more arduous than we quite fancied, and that our trowsers and shoes +would afterwards have fetched but little in Monmouth-street. The Greeks, +it is understood, light up their bonfires, partly by way of amusing +themselves, and partly by way of hinting displeasure at things in +general. Of course, it is quite obvious, that any party who wish to +prove a minister's rule to be calamitous, assists their argument by +increasing the sum of calamity.</p> + +<p>But night with its miseries at length was passed. During its course, the +thermometer did not get below 90°. What it reached in the daytime it +boots not to record—and signifies less, because when the sun is above +us, we bargain for a hot day in summer. But oh! those nights, when by +every precedent we should have had cooling dews, and refreshing air!</p> + +<p>However, the sun rose, and the people on shore rose too. There was no +tumultuous rushing forth in boats to have a look at the new comers, as +there is so apt to be on the arrival of a man-of-war. A quiet little +dingy would steal out, manned by three or four mongrel-looking Greeks, +and row round us at a respectful distance. The fact is, that the people +had got scent of the reason of our coming: and as a reclamation of right +is by them supposed to be incompatible with any thing but an angry mood, +they were afraid to approach us. The town itself we perceived to be a +most ill-conditioned looking place. Harbour there is none—at least none +available in a breeze from seaward. A heavy sea sets right in, and must +strand any thing found anchored here. We were afterwards told, that in +the bad weather of the winter before our coming, the sea had washed some +vessels right up into the town. This want of a harbour is the most +serious drawback to the commerce of Adalia. It is, in every respect +except this, adapted to serve as the general emporium of the interior. +Even at present, notwithstanding its disadvantages, a good deal of +business is done here: but ships can never lie before the town in peace, +nor commence loading and unloading, with the confidence that they shall +be able to get through their work without having first to slip cable and +be off. But the town must be in other hands before so arduous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_743" id="Page_743">[Pg 743]</a></span> a work is +likely to be undertaken.</p> + +<p>A most unserviceable rumble of a fort mounted guard over the town, in a +position little likely to be of use in repelling an attack by sea. +Perhaps it might have been available as a maintainer of good order in +the town, should the spirit of insubordination haply spring up therein: +but we could hardly have credited the walls as possessed of sufficient +stability to stand the shock of a report. We saw the artillery-men, busy +as bees, at their guns—evidently standing by to return the salute which +we were expected to give. But this would have been far too civil +treatment for them, while matter of dispute between us remained. We +maintained a dignified silence.</p> + +<p>It was not long before Mr —— found his way off to us, and put us up to +the actual state of affairs. It seemed that little Pedlington was in an +uproar. The whole of the Adalian public were in a state of lively +commotion. Of course, as they had bullied loudly, they were abject in +concession. Those more immediately concerned in the outrage on the +soap-boiler, would have infallibly absconded, had not the strong arm of +the law laid an embargo upon them, and laid them by as scapegoats in the +first instance. The prevailing opinion about us was, that we should +certainly blow the town about their ears, but that still all must be +essayed to conciliate us. The Caimacan himself, the great man who had +given rise to the remonstrance on our part, had taken himself off, and +left his deputy in command. This was professedly to look after some +troops that he was recruiting in the neighbourhood, but we gave him the +credit of practising a dodge to get out of the way of an awkward +business. A striking peculiarity of the business was, that no doubt +seemed any longer to be maintained as to the issue of the negotiation. +The question of right and wrong was no longer considered as being open; +but the verdict was already presumed to be given against those whom we +challenged as offenders.</p> + +<p>It was thought advisable to pay some attention to appearances on the +occasion of our interview with the governor. No suit prospers with them, +in a general way, unless backed by good personal appearance. For this +reason we mustered a strong party of officers, in imposing costume; and +by way of evincing our determination, proceeded with as little delay as +possible to the divan. The usual motley group of starers gathered round +us at the landing, and escorted us up the rugged street to the <i>palais +de justice</i>. They all seemed to be affected with the spirit of fear, +except our partisans, who were in a state of exultation from the like +cause. Two individuals in particular were amusingly and palpably +possessed with the spirit of triumph, and they were the two attendants +of the vice-consul. These men were worthy of notice on other accounts, +but singularly remarkable in respect of the effectual manner in which +they seemed to have divested themselves of national prejudices. They +were enthusiastic fellows, who had not merely let out their services to +the representative of England, but seemed fairly to have made over to +him the allegiance of heart and head; retaining no sympathy with their +own countrymen. Thus did they seem to rejoice eminently in our coming, +and the consequent humbling of the local authorities. They were two +strapping fellows—as janissaries, to be any thing worth, should always +be—and marshalled us the way in grand style.</p> + +<p>The unhappy rabble seemed to be suffering the pangs of most cruel +privation when the cortège arrived at the residence of justice, and they +found themselves left in the lurch at the threshold. In such mood you +see a London mob flattening their noses against the panes of a chemist's +window, or hanging outside of a replete magistrate's office. One comfort +is, that the economy of a Turkish <i>menage</i> perfectly admits of the +establishment of a line of scouts, even from the very presence-chamber: +so that earliest intelligence may be conveyed to the gentlemen without. +Mr —— gave us by the way a few hints as to etiquette, and engaged to +prompt us as occasion might demand. I have said already that he was +perfectly up to conversation in the native language and might have well +played the part of interpreter. One might might have supposed that this +would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_744" id="Page_744">[Pg 744]</a></span> have been taken by the people rather as a compliment; and that it +would have been considered creditable to a foreign agent to have +acquired a knowledge of the vernacular of the people with whom he had +constantly to treat. But the contrary is the fact. To speak for one's +self is far too simple a mode of conducting business: and he who would +preserve his dignity in any consideration, must retain the services of a +dragoman. To conduct an important interview without the intervention of +this functionary would convey to the Turks an idea of slovenly +negligence. A good thing is it when the agent, commercial or diplomatic, +possesses sufficient knowledge of the language to enable him to check +the version of the interpreter, who otherwise is apt to take liberties +with his text. However, we were in this case quite safe: first, in the +assurance of Mr —— that he would risk his life on his dragoman's +veracity; and next, because it was clear that no word could pass which +was not likely to be reinterpreted to us.</p> + +<p>We marched into the room, and made our salaams-some of us inconsiderable +ones very truculently, for we were very irate; and on all such occasions +a man's indignation rises in exact proportion to the degree in which he +has nothing to say to the matter. The deputy Caimacan was sitting on a +divan at the top of the room, and rose politely as we entered. There +were too many of us to find room in the divan, so we were scattered +about as best we could light on places. The main difficulty was to get a +place that looked clean enough to sit upon; for a dirtier palace I never +saw, nor a more, beggarly. One cannot say whether the head governor had +taken all his traps with him when he went a-soldiering; but if what we +saw really was his establishment, it is likely enough that he had gone +away to avoid exposing his poverty.</p> + +<p>"<i>Hosh Gueldin</i>," said the Turk; "you are welcome."</p> + +<p>And now was to be seen a fine contrast between Oriental apathy and +British energy. The Turk sank back on his seat, as if disengaged from +all care, and not quite up to the trouble of entertaining his morning +visitors. The English Captain sat bolt upright, "at attention," and +opened the business of the <i>séance</i> at once.</p> + +<p>"Tell the Governor—"</p> + +<p>"Stop a moment," said Mr ——, "that's not the way to begin."</p> + +<p>"What is the way then?"</p> + +<p>"First, you must smoke a pipe—there's one coming this way. You would +shock all their notions of propriety by entering abruptly on business. +We must have first a little talk about things in general."</p> + +<p>Just then the Governor roused up, and addressed to the Captain, through +the dragoman, some observation on the weather or the crops. Then came a +servant with a chibouque and coffee: and the head negotiators were soon +co-operatively engaged.</p> + +<p>And no bad way of beginning business either; especially in cases where +there may be a little awkward rust to rub off. The only objection to the +amusement in this case was, that it was not general—pipes being +afforded only to the heads of departments. This was a style of treatment +so different from all our experience, that it left me more fully +persuaded than ever that the Caimacan had walked off with his goods and +chattels, not forgetting his pipes.</p> + +<p>This fumatory process proceeded for some time, almost in silence. It +afforded the several parties opportunity to settle the speeches they +intended to make, and certainly must have been useful in the way of +allaying the angry passions of their several minds. We, who had none of +the business on our consciences, and had come merely to make up the +show, employed this interval in taking cognizance of the localities. The +household appointments were sadly inferior to those we had been +accustomed to see; and especially must this condemnation fall on the +servants, who were a most dirty, ill-conditioned set. They stood +clustered about the doorway in groups, looking furtively at us, and +whispering counsel.</p> + +<p>"Halloo!" said Mr ——, "they have determined to be prepared for +contingencies. There are the culprits, I see, in waiting for the +bastinado, if such should be your demand."</p> + +<p>And there, sure enough, they had the poor fellows just outside, waiting +to be scourged for the propitiating of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_745" id="Page_745">[Pg 745]</a></span> our wrath. Evidently they were +little aware that the affair had changed altogether its complexion; and +that the culpability had in our eyes been transferred from the original +rioters to the protectors of the riot.</p> + +<p>When, eventually, the signal was given for commencing business, it was a +fine thing to see how beautifully submissive the deputy had become. He +began by declaring that he could not arrange the matter, but must refer +it to his chief, and wanted much to put off the discussion till that +functionary should arrive. On this it was hinted to him, that it would +have been polite and proper had that gentleman remained in the way to +settle the row, which had occurred by his own fault, but that we could +not await his return. Either must they undertake at once to make full +reparation for the wounded dignity of the Consul, and for the injurious +treatment of the Ionian, or they would see what they should see. It +needed little pressing on our part to break down the feint which had +been set up by way of opposition. The deputy soon declared that all +should be as we wished. He still stuck to his declaration, that the +actual settlement of the business was beyond his province, and that he +must wait for the sanction of his commanding officer. But meanwhile he +took upon himself to declare the terms on which things might be +considered virtually settled; and they were, that we were to have +everything our own way. This result was obtained by us without recourse +had to any thing like bullying; and we were able, in this instance, to +behave in a more civilised manner, because we were backed by so much +real authority, and show of present power. But little doubt is there, +that, however unfavourable the inference with respect to Turkish sense +and honesty, the mode most commonly to be recommended in dealings with +them, is by <i>in terrorem</i> proceeding. They cannot understand the +co-ordinate existence, of power and moderation. Very good fun will +sometimes be enacted by the knowing for the cowing of a pasha; and in +almost any case the only fear of <i>échouance</i> is where there may exist +too much modesty. But only bully hard, and you are tolerably sure to +gain your point. It is by no means necessary that your arguments should +carry the cogent force of soundness. Appearances are what weigh chiefly +with those whose habits of thinking do not dispose them to discuss +argument. One sharp-witted fellow that I knew brought to successful +issue a decisive experiment on the readiness of pashas to be taken in by +mere sound. He went into the vice-regal presence, attended by a dragoman +whom he had previously instructed in the subject-matter to be +propounded—some question of redress for grievance. It was necessary +that he should say something on the occasion, and afford the appearance +of telling the dragoman what to say: but as this person already knew his +lesson, it was not necessary that what he said should be to him +intelligible. Nothing occurred to him as likely to be more effective in +delivery than the celebrated speech of Norval about the Grampian hills; +which accordingly he recited with due emphasis, standing up to give the +better effect to the scene. The end desired was fully attained. The +pasha opened wide eyes, as the actor grew excited, and was visibly +affected by the assumption of towering passion. He soon began to try to +pacify him, and beg him to be easy. "Inshalla! all should be as he +wished." The upshot of our argument with the deputy Caimacan was, that +he would send immediately to his chief, for a confirmation of the +pacification between us, and that meanwhile we were to amuse ourselves +as well as we could. But for all we saw, amusement was one of the good +things not easily to be had at Adalia. It is so deeply retired in +uncivilisation, and so wanting withal in the excitements of energetic +barbarism, that human life is there tamed down to the most passionless +condition. It was, too, notwithstanding the season, a time of unusual +commercial enterprise just then. It was the year of the murrain in +Egypt, which destroyed so enormous a proportion of their cattle; and +Mehemet Ali was sending in all directions to purchase horses, asses, and +kine. A large corvette of his came in while we were there, on this +service. She had landed her guns, and was filling her deck with +livestock. There was also a deal of business going on just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_746" id="Page_746">[Pg 746]</a></span> then in the +timber line. But little evidence of this brisk state of the markets was +given by the people. A good many visitors certainly came off to see us; +but that was rather a reason why we should have accused the populace of +idleness. We were struck with the appearance of many of the old fellows +who honoured us with visits. They retained, without exception, the +orthodox dress and beard of the old school. Among them were a great +number of the green turbans, which mark the sacred person of the +"Hadji." Such a clustering of these distinguished characters made us +fancy at first that Adalia itself must be invested with the idea of some +peculiar sanctity. But we found that these gentlemen were merely <i>en +route</i>, tarrying at Adalia, a great point of embarkation, for +opportunity to pursue their journey. The place is in one of the great +high roads to the Hedjaz: and of the swarms who pass through it every +year, many pilgrims have not sufficient funds to defray the expense of +travelling either way. It then becomes a work of charity for the more +opulent of the faithful to speed them on the journey. But that they +depend on such means of travelling is reason sufficient to account for +long in their line of locomotion, and for their congregating here in +considerable numbers. Of all places likely to maintain the constant +infection of plague, this must be one of the first: for notoriously +among no people is the disease so rife as among the pilgrims.</p> + +<p>The worthy consul did his best to embellish the days of our sojourn with +pleasurable episodes. Society there was not likely to be any; but yet +such as, for want of better, they had, he undertook to show us. He +really seemed very much obliged to us for our opportune visit, and said +that it would be the making of him. It certainly did seem to be quite +necessary to the maintaining of the dignity of his office. One +invitation we had from a merchant of the place, a man whom they +described as being very rich and of great influence; and a plan was laid +for our having a picnic in the country. There is a place in the +neighbourhood of the town which has been prepared expressly for the use +of those who make rural excursions. A thick grove of trees keeps off the +sun, and soft turf lends a seat to the revellers. We could make out the +top of the trees from the anchorage, for the country is of an elevated +character, hanging out on lofty cliffs the different features of its +panorama. The effect produced by this arrangement of the scenery is +highly beautiful. It has in profusion one element of the beautiful, and +that is the feature of cascade. There is in one point a congress of +waterfalls, whereat may be counted no less than nine separate streams, +which pour down their abundance from the cliffs into the sea. The good +consul and his satellites bore us pretty constant company; and of great +service they were in preserving order among the motley crew that +constantly thronged our decks. We did not like to qualify the good +report we had so far gained and maintained, by any exhibition of +harshness towards the mob. But the sturdy janissary of Mr —— thought +nothing of laying his stick across a fellow's shoulders, by way of +reminder to behave himself. I must say that many of them deserved it, +and for their sakes can but hope that they profited by the attention.</p> + +<p>Mr —— had two men in attendance upon him, without whom he never +stirred abroad. They were brothers, but filled situations of different +rank. One was dragoman, a post of which the occupation entitled him to +the consideration of a gentleman; the other was merely henchman or +janissary, of which dignity the allocation is in the kitchen. I remember +that it pained me to see one brother walk in to dinner, while the other +poor fellow had to keep guard without. But they seemed well used to the +enforcement of the distinction, and to find therein nothing of +invidiousness. Fine fellows were they both, and highly lauded by their +master. There is surely something extraordinary in these instances, +where men are brought to devote themselves implicitly to a foreign +service, in the heart of their country, and amid the full play of +national prejudices. That they really are faithful followers, is I +believe beyond doubt; and that sometimes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_747" id="Page_747">[Pg 747]</a></span> under trying circumstances. +With these two individuals especially, we had so much intercourse, that +we were enabled to see how admiration for the English entered into the +main current of their feelings. It so happened that we had come here to +the very place where that early victim to the zeal of travel, Mr +Daniels, had shortly before met his doom. While following in the track +of Mr Fellowes, he caught the fatal Xanthian fever; and after many +relapses died here. That these men were very kind and attentive to him +may be argument only of their humanity. But there was something in the +emotion with which they spoke of him, that betokened a sense of +fellowship, beyond what men of such differing creeds are apt to feel for +a travelling stranger. They spoke of sitting up with him at night, +giving him his medicine, and weeping for him, when there remained no +room for active solicitude. The idea of dying amidst strangers in a +foreign land, with no familiar face at the bed-side, is a desolation +whose thought cannot pass over the spirit without beclouding its +sunniness. And yet we may rely upon it, that amongst those most +affectionately tended and most generously wept, have been they who have +met their last hour under such circumstances. Human hearts all vibrate +in harmony to one chord: in the good this sympathy is ready; in the bad +it is dulled; but never while life and hope remain, can the silver chord +be said to be cut. And so it is, that the same image of the forlorn, +which, as affecting any that we love, appeals at once to the deep wells +of compassion, will cause the same feeling of compassion to thrill with +the remotest stragglers of the family of Adam. It is not a matter of +reasoning, but an instinct. There is in the sight of helpless suffering +a power to disarm human ferocity. And if that be the gentlest +death-pillow that is breathed upon by the prayer and lighted by the eye +of family love, depend upon it that far from the ungentlest is that, +whose presence has brought to rude and rough natures the putting off of +their roughness, and the recognising of the sweet faculty of compassion. +Happy is that desolation, even in the last hour, which can awaken the +heaven-like eagerness to be to the dying one a minister from his far-off +home! A man might be happy so to die, that he might light up so much of +heaven within a human breast.</p> + +<p>Both these <i>attachés</i> of the consulate were men of note. The dragoman +had been captain of a troop of cavalry in the service of Mehemet Ali, +and on some quarrel with his commanding officer had left the service and +kingdom. He was a person of polished manners, and some education, and +thus enabled to produce agreeably in conversation the results of his +experience of many lands and people. He rather astonished us with the +extent to which he carried <i>jeune France</i> principles, that seem so +entirely incompatible with the holding of Mahomedanism. But wonderful it +is to see how the French spirit circulates in the most apathetic +societies, seeming to find in them a latent vitality suited to its +purpose. The manners of a Mussulman are so stereotyped, and his subjects +of conversation so provided for by law, that it seemed quite an anomaly +to see this Turk drinking wine after dinner, and talking like a man of +the world. It would not seem that such an effect on the personal +character is the invariable result of educating a Turk in Paris, though +such an effect is exactly what we might expect. I have met a native of +Constantinople, who had brought back with him from France only the +language and the personal deportment, retaining withal the +anti-reforming spirit of his orthodox brethren. But this spirit of +resistance to innovation is fast fading away; and as innovation once +begun here must lead to revolution, it is not difficult to foresee that +a few more years only shall have passed, when the character of the Turk +will have become historical, and the scenes that at present embellish +their corner of the world, will have to be sought for in the +descriptions of pen and pencil. Whether the influence emanate from the +throne, or whether the court be following the popular metropolitan +movement, it is difficult to say. But among them is assuredly at work +the spirit of change, that must shortly carry away the mouldering +edifice of their present institutions. This is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_748" id="Page_748">[Pg 748]</a></span> something too vetust to +abide the shock of any agitation. Let us hope that their changes may be +successively biassed towards the better: may they acquire the urbanity +of our great masters in elegance, without their profligacy; and if they +reject Mahomedanism, may it be to receive in exchange something better +than mere infidelity.</p> + +<p>The brother of the <i>ci-devant</i> captain was a quiet, unassuming fellow, +who wanted language to communicate with us freely. Nevertheless he +managed to interest us much, with an account of the sufferings and +trials of his youth. They were by birth Moreote Turks; and in the +revolution of that country, when first the Greeks arose against their +Turkish masters, (for really one must particularise in talking of Greek +revolutions,) they had suffered the loss of all their protecting +kindred, and hardly, children as they were, by some kindly intervention, +been themselves saved. It is a sad thing, but a truth, that in this +exterminating war, the cold-blooded massacreing was not all on one side. +The horror and hatred of these deeds have, with their infamy, rested +chiefly on the Turks, because theirs was the power to exceed in +enormity; but the black veil of guilt rests on both sides of the strife. +Still, however blameable the Greeks may be, for the cruelty committed on +occasion, they were far from having power to work the enormous +destruction of harmless life, whose memory still weighs on the Turkish +power, and whose record is still extant in the evidence of ruined and +dispeopled cities. But a short time before coming to Adalia, we had +visited the island of Scio—that island which once was the garden of the +Levant, and the storehouse of her riches. Even now, the great majority +of the Greek merchants who are so prosperous a body in London, are +Sciotes; and in those days they had pretty well all the commerce of the +Levant in their hands. They delighted themselves in adorning their +beautiful island with the artifices which money can command to the +decorating of nature. At present a mass of ruins defaces that lovely +spot. One is disposed to wonder that the Turks have never been at the +pains to clear away the wreck of the town, if only for the sake of +removing the monument of their cruelty. Mere selfish motives might +induce them to be at that pains, and to restore this island to its +former fitness for the habitations of the rich. At present it is one +wide ruin; noble streets are there, with the shells of their houses +remaining, as they were left in the day of massacre and pillage. The few +inhabitants are stowed away in the one or two odd rooms of the old +mansions that remain; being now reduced to such poverty that they have +had neither spirit nor money to build for themselves; and probably +finding it more congenial to the present spirit of their fortunes to +roost among the bats and owls, rather than in trim streets. One +occurrence gave us much pleasure, because it gave the lie to a story +which has many abettors. It is said that when the garrison in the +fortress, and the fleet before the town, were promoting the havoc, the +English consul, from some punctilio on the subject of neutrality, +refused shelter to the miserables who fled to his threshold. One old +woman, in the story of her sufferings, gave us a full contradiction to +this most incredible tradition. She had invited us into her dwelling to +look at her wares, in the shape of conserves and purses—a strange +combination, but nevertheless the articles by the sale of which they eke +out their living. We were fully consoled for the trouble of passing over +and through the <i>debris</i> of some half-dozen houses which lay between us +and her domicile. It came out that she herself had been saved by flying +to the English consulate. It was a comfort to hear this—and to hear it +in a way that involved the fact of an indefinite number of refugees +having found the same shelter. Many rejoice to say that the French +consul was the only efficient protector in that day of horror; and of +these times, though so recent, it is not easy always to get such correct +information as may sustain a contradiction of popular report.</p> + +<p>In a country of such limited resources in the way of amusement, it was +not very easy for our zealous friends to cater for us, during the long +days that we had to await the answer from the Caimacan. Riding was out +of the question, and there were no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_749" id="Page_749">[Pg 749]</a></span> antiquities within reach. Thus were +we cut off from the two great resources of men in our position. But they +played their part of entertainers hospitably and well. They told us long +stories of the courts, and of what was to be seen in actual service in +the camp of the Egyptian viceroy. Above all, they did us good by showing +how thoroughly happy the whole party had been rendered by our coming. We +were only afraid that they might become a little too bumptious on the +strength of it, and be after giving us another job. But they did more +than simply bear us company; they bore us to the cool grove, which I +have said we could descry from the deck of our ship, there to be +introduced to certain worthies, and to make <i>kef</i> in their company. +Nothing to my mind comes up to an <i>al fresco</i> entertainment—in proper +season and country, be it understood; for an English gipsy party is a +very different affair.</p> + +<p>Our host conceived it to be a duty incumbent on him to develop, on this +occasion, the full power of the resources of Adalia. We should have been +far better satisfied if he had contented himself with doing things in a +smaller way; but he was bent on magnificence. It was quite treat enough +to lie on the soft turf, with the thick shade above, and to allow the +hours to pass away as they led on evening. But he had been at the +trouble to retain a band of musicians for our sakes. Such a set they +were!—surpassing, in discordant prowess, the worst street musicians +among our beggar melodists. It is quite surprising that invention has so +long slumbered with these native artistes. With Musard concerts and +Wilhelm music-meetings all around them, it is wonderful that they do not +catch the note of something better than their villanous mandolins and +single-noted pipes. Does any one need to be told what a mandolin is? It +is something very different, let me assure him, from the ideal +instrument of Moore's Melodies. Not even the lovely maidens that Moore +paints could render tolerable a performance upon it; whereas it is made +to resound by some especially ugly fellow, whose rascality of +appearance, is relieved by no touch of the poetic. I did once hear a +Turco-Greek lady perform, and on a more civilised instrument—a lady of +high reputation as a performer on the guitar and a vocalist. And seldom +has the spirit of romantic preparation received a more sudden chill than +did mine on that occasion. Nothing could be more outrageously absurd +than the whole thing was—accompaniment and song. I never afterwards was +solicitous to hear an Oriental's musical performance; and am quite +satisfied, that in them dwells no musical faculty, creative or +perceptive: or that at least it is in a dormant state.</p> + +<p>These musicians began with a symphony on the full band—mandolins +leading, drums doing bass, and the whole lot of ugly fellows screeching +forth what might have been esteemed air or accompaniment, as the case +might be. That a sorry musical effect was produced will surprise no one +who considers the build of the most musical of their instruments. The +mandolin is by way of being a guitar, or banjo—only in a very small way +indeed. Nothing has been added to the idea since first Mercury stumbled +on the original <i>testudo</i>—indeed, I should guess that the dried sinews +of a tortoise would give out a far purer sound than the jingling wires +with which the mandolin is mounted. I have sometimes stood at the door +of a <i>café</i>, or, to give it the real name καφενειον, and +listened in wonder to the strains of some minstrel holding forth within. +The wonder was, not that the man should play egregiously ill, but that +the effect of good music should be produced by his evil playing. The +people were evidently excited to sorrow when the attempt was at a +mournful strain, and to ardour when the lilt took a loftier flight. To +me who stood by, the difference of intention on the part of the +performer was hardly discernible; indeed to be recognised only by the +occasional catching of some familiar word in the burden of the song. The +same observation may apply to the current Greek poetry. There can be no +mistake in the conclusion, that it produces the effect of real poetry on +the people, urging them in the direction whither works the imagination +of the poet. But men of taste have come to, and can come to, but one +decision on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_750" id="Page_750">[Pg 750]</a></span> the judgment of Romaic poetasters. The spirit of poetry has +died out of, and is become extinct from the genius of their tongue. It +is but the enthusiasm of by-gone days, the inkling of Attic glory, that +lingers about the circumstances of their modern productions, and cheats +men with the mere similarity of idiom. Poetry is of universal +application, and were the pretensions of the modern Greek genuine, his +productions would touch the hearts of the poetic of other lands.</p> + +<p>These fellows who entertained us on this occasion, struck a good deal of +enthusiasm out of their jingle,—enthusiasm to themselves, be it +remarked, and not to us. I saw them grow sad in face, while the strain +proceeded at a slow pace, and the <i>voce di canto</i> degenerated into a +more lugubrious howl than ever. By these tokens, I judged them to be +singing some tale of sorrow, and so it seemed they were. The gentleman +who performed for us the part of Chorus, gave us to wit, that they were +lamenting the fall of Algiers, and imprecating maledictions on the head +of the French. This they evidently considered a delicate and appropriate +attention to us as Englishmen. I was only surprised to find they entered +so far into the family distinctions of the Franks. There was some heart, +too, in the manner in which they gesticulated and declaimed; and I have +little doubt but that they were in earnest—especially if any of these +happened to have friends or relations down that way, who had been roused +out of house and home by the Gallic Avatar. When they were tired with +singing, or perhaps presumed that they had therewith tired us, they took +to playing the fool. Not merely in a general sense, in which they may be +said to have been so engaged all along; but with heavy effort, and under +the express direction of a professional master of the ceremonies. The +Adalian jester was a tall ugly fellow, who had considerable power of +comic expression in his face, but whose forte lay in a cap of fantastic +device. It was made of the skin of some animal, whose genus I will not +venture to guess; and had been contrived in such fashion that the tail +hung over the top, and whisked about at the caprice of the wearer. This +was a never-failing source of amusement to the performer himself, as +well as to the native bystanders. As he bobbed his head up and down, and +ran after this tail, the people burst into peals of laughter. They were +quite taken up with the exhibition, except when they stole a moment now +and then for a peep to see how the Frank visitors were amused with their +wit. Besides this, the jester had a number of practical jokes, such as +coming quietly along-side of some unsuspecting person, and catching hold +of his leg, barking loudly the while, so as to make him think that some +dog had bitten him. But this part of the performance was decidedly +coarse, and did not improve our idea of the civilisation of the place. A +good deal of sketching was going on in the course of this day; and the +visages of some of these musicians, and especially of the jester, and of +a blind old choragus, have been handed down to the posterity of our +affectionate friends. We had a visit this day of a gentler kind. A Greek +lady, the owner of considerable landed property in the place, came with +her youthful daughter to interchange civilities with us. She was a +plain, almost ugly old woman; but, like nine out of ten of all women +extant, was of kind and <i>feminine</i> disposition. Moreover, like the rest +of the ladies, she was very fond of talking; but, on this particular +occasion, unhappily could speak no single word that would convey meaning +to us. Still it was not to be expected that she could hold her tongue; +so she squatted down by us, and talked, perhaps all the faster because +she had the conversation all to herself. Her daughter was a young lady, +whom by appearance in England, you would call somewhere in her teens; +but, hereaway they are so precocious that one is constantly deceived in +guessing their age. She would have been pretty if she had been clean; +and was abundantly and expensively ornamented. Sometimes we hear it +figuratively said of a domestic coquette, that she carries all her +property on her back. These Greeks must be well off, if it may not +sometimes be so said with propriety of them. They have a plan of +advertising a young lady's assets, in a manner that must be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_751" id="Page_751">[Pg 751]</a></span> most +satisfactory to fortune-hunters, and prevent the mistakes that with us +constantly foil the best-laid plans. They turn a girl's fortune into +money, and hang it—it, the fortune proper—the ποιον and the +ποσον—about her neck. They do not buy jewels worth so many +hundreds or tens—but transpierce the actual coin, and of them compose a +necklace of whose value there can be no doubt, and whose fashion is not +very variable. This may be called a fair and above-board way of doing +things. The swain, as he sits by the beloved object, may amuse himself +by counting the number of precious links in the chain that is drawing +him into matrimony, and debate within himself, on sure data, the +question whether or no he shall yield to the gentle influence. There +would not have been much doubt about the monetary recommendations of +this young lady, for she was abundantly gilt, as became the daughter of +one reputed so rich as the old lady. Poor girls! It makes one sad to +look upon them, brought up with so little idea of what is girlish and +beautiful; to see them ignorant yet sophisticated, bejeweled and +unwashed. This poor child was decked out in the most absurd manner, and +sat for admiration most palpably. She also sat for something else, which +was her picture. This was taken by several of the party, so much to the +satisfaction of mother and daughter, that the old lady insisted on +taking her turn as model. We invariably found them pleased with the +productions of our art in these cases, and satisfied of the correctness +of the likeness. The only objections they would occasionally make, would +refer to the pretermission of some such thing as a tassel in the cap. +The fidelity of the likeness they took implicitly on trust.</p> + +<p>I have said we could not talk to this old lady, Greek though she was, +furnished though some of us were with the language of her compatriots. +The deficiency was on her part—not on ours. She could not speak one +single word of her own language. And so it is, that of all the Greeks of +Adalia, not one can converse in the language of their fathers. Separated +from their countrymen, they have become almost a distinct race; and, +losing that language of which they have no practice, have learnt to use +as their own the vernacular of the land in which they are immigrants of +such antique standing. They talk Turkish—live almost like Turks; and by +their religion only are distinguished from their neighbours. For +religious purposes they use their own language: and, by consequence, +understand no single word of the ritual or lessons. This is certainly a +singular national position—impossible, except from religious +prevention. It is just the reverse of what may be seen elsewhere: for +instance, in the mountains of Thessaly you find a colony of Germans, +who, though completely shut in by the people of the land, and holding +intercourse with none other, remain foreigners and Germans, resisting +the tendency to amalgamation. So in Sicily you find the <i>Piana della +Grecia</i>, where the original Greek colonists have kept their language and +customs in their integrity. But where else, save in this one spot, will +you find people who, after having imbibed the influences of the country +to the extent of adoption of its language, have been able to resist +amalgamation with its denizens in every respect?</p> + +<p>By the bye, these people have opened a sort of royal road to the +acquisition of the Turkish language. The orthography of this language is +a most vexed and perplexed affair. Those who have made the attempt to +master its difficulties may say something in its vituperation; but the +practice of many of those who are well acquainted therewith, says a +great deal more. These Greeks, for instance, though they have adopted +this language as their own, and have been accustomed in no other to lisp +to their nurses, have altogether discarded the orthography. They speak +as do the natives, but write in their own character; accommodating the +flexible capabilities of their alphabet to the purposes of Turkish +orthoepy. Thus have you the means of reading Turkish in a familiar +character, which also has the advantage of presenting your words in a +definite form. The real Turkish alphabet is any thing but definite; at +least to one within any decent term of years of his commencing the +study. This is a mode of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_752" id="Page_752">[Pg 752]</a></span> teaching which I have known to be insisted on +by at least one good master: though of course the man of any ambition +would regard this byway to knowledge as merely a step preliminary in the +course.</p> + +<p>This was not the only party at which we assisted during our visit. A +rich Greek merchant invited us to enjoy the coolness of evening in his +gardens. It was duly impressed on our minds by the gentleman of the +place that this old fellow was worth his weight in gold. They did say +that his name was good for £150,000—a long figure, certainly, to meet +in such a place. He was a quiet-looking, unpretending person, with very +much the air of a moneyed man. The hope that we had formed of seeing a +display of the youth and fashion of Adalia was disappointed. It was by +all express relaxation of the law of etiquette that we had the +opportunity of seeing even the one or two ladies belonging to the +family. Greeks, in their own country, though exceedingly jealous, and +apt to build up alarms on the slightest foundation, are yet by no means +chary in showing their women. In-doors and out, you will meet them, both +old and young; and perfectly unconstrained and companionable you will +find them. But here the case is far otherwise. They have acquired so +much of Mussulman notions, that they do not allow their women to mix in +society. This is the general rule: more pliant to occasion than the law +of the Turks, which never yields. And not only here is there a strong +feeling on this subject: the same prejudice prevails widely in the +Turco-Greek islands. For instance, in Mytilene, on occasion of taking +that long excursion which I have already mentioned, we observed that all +the women we met were old and ugly. From this observed fact we drew +conclusions unfavourable to the general appearance and presentability of +the Mytilenian ladies. But subsequently we found the reason of the +phenomenon to be, that the young and pretty girls were kept within +doors, and the old ones alone allowed the privilege of walking forth—a +difference of condition that might almost induce the girls of Mytilene +to wish for age and wrinkles.</p> + +<p>They did not, at Adalia, use us quite so ill as to withhold their ladies +from the entertainment. The mother was there and a daughter—a young +lady with the romantic name of Dúdù. With such a name as this she ought +to have been very pretty, and certainly she did not fall far short of +such condition. It was clearly to be perceived that she was unaccustomed +to mix in general society, and that the company of strange men disturbed +her. But she was not ungraceful either in manner or dress, or in her +evident desire to please. The place of our reception was in the central +court, which the best kind of houses preserve—a contrivance which gives +to each of the four sides on which the building is disposed, the +advantages of a pure and thorough current of air. Here we sat drinking +sherbet, and, of course, smoking the unfailing chibouque. The lady +mother was painfully anxious to talk to us, and pretty Miss Dúdù was +seriously bent on listening; but we could not manage to execute a +colloquy. All the civil things imaginable were expressed to us by +gesture, and the young lady came out strong in the presentation of +bouquets. One fortunate man received from her an orange, the only one +remaining at that time in the garden; this we persuaded ourselves must, +in their symbolical language, imply a declaration of some soft interest. +Miss Dúdù would not have been such a very bad <i>parti</i>, being, as she +was, the sole heritress of her father's thousands. However, she was, we +understood, engaged already to a youth, who was obeying the cruel law +prevalent in this place, which compels the accepted swain to absent +himself from his inamorata for a long probation. I think the time was +said to be a year; during which no communication must pass between the +parties. Should the first overtures of a suitor be rejected, it is a +settled matter of etiquette, that he never again is to see or speak to +the young lady. This must be likely, we would think, to render a man +cautious in proposing: but certainly it must tend to lessen the number +of eventual old maids, by rendering the young ladies also chary of +saying No, when they mean Yes. On<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_753" id="Page_753">[Pg 753]</a></span> the whole, we can scarcely admire +their matrimonial tactics. We found that we were among a family of +Hádjis. Miss Dúdù was a Hadji, and so were her father and mother. In +their case the place of pilgrimage is Jerusalem, a visit to which +confers on them the respectable title of Hadji for life. This old +gentleman had made a pious use of some of his money, by promoting the +cause of pilgrimage among his less opulent brethren. The desire to tread +the holy soil is common to them all; not only to the religious. These +have their motives; but so also have the disorderly and wicked, who +think that a world of cheating and ill-living is covered over by the +wholesome cloak of pilgrimage. There are also certain less considerable +places of pilgrimage, invested with considerable sanctity, though +inferior in character to the one great rendezvous of the religious. +Health to body seems often the expected result of visits to these +secondary places, to which recourse will frequently be had when medical +aid has failed to be available. Dúdù's father had made himself highly +popular by chartering a vessel, and conveying, for charity's sake, as +many devotees as chose to go on one of these minor expeditions. The +island of Cyprus has a convent of peculiar sanctity, a visit to which is +highly esteemed as an antidote to bodily ills. He gave a great number +the opportunity of testing the truth of the tradition.</p> + +<p>It was not bad fun, after all, tarrying a few days in Adalia: only, by +choice, we would hardly choose that particular season for the excursion. +What between the Consul's gardens, and the old Greek, and the little bit +of business we had upon our hands, we managed to get through the time +pleasantly enough. We saw that we had here a good specimen of the +variety of life commonly described as deadly-lively. Were it not that +they have such a lot of strangers constantly passing through the place, +they might seem to be in danger of a moral<i>anchylosis</i>—of falling into +a state of mind so rusty, as to be incapable of direction to any object, +save such as lay before them, in the way of immediate physical +requirement. The few days that we remained there did not afford time +enough for the disease to make much head with us. Indeed, for us it was +a variety of experience, sufficiently stirring for the time, to mark the +ways of a people so deeply buried in imperturbability and incuriosity.</p> + +<p>I think we were not sorry when at last the messenger returned from the +Caimacan, and we found we were in condition to leave the place. The +Consul was set on his legs again, and the English name in better odour +than ever. The <i>attachés</i> of the consulate had taken care that our visit +should fail in no degree of its wholesome influence, for want of their +good word; and I fancy that the town's people thought themselves rather +well off that we left their town standing. We left, too, with the full +reputation for merciful dealing; as we had spared the poor soap-rioters +the infliction of the bastinado.</p> + +<p>And so we sped on our way to Rhodes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_754" id="Page_754">[Pg 754]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PACIFIC_ROVINGSC" id="PACIFIC_ROVINGSC"></a>PACIFIC ROVINGS.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></h2> + + +<p>We were much puzzled, a few weeks since, by a tantalising and +unintelligible paragraph, pertinaciously reiterated in the London +newspapers. Its brevity equalled its mystery; it consisted but of five +words, the first and last in imposing majuscules. Thus it ran:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"OMOO, by the author of TYPEE."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>With Trinculo we exclaimed, "What have we here? a man or a fish? dead or +alive?" Who or what were Typee and Omoo? Were things or creatures thus +designated? Did they exist on the earth, or in the air, or in the waters +under the earth; were they spiritual or material, vegetable or mineral, +brute or human? Were they newly-discovered planets, nicknamed whilst +awaiting baptism, or strange fossils, contemporaries of the Megatherium, +or Magyar dissyllables from Dr Bowring's vocabulary? Perchance they were +a pair of new singers for the Garden, or a fresh brace of beasts for the +legitimate drama at Drury. Omoo might be the heavy elephant; Typee the +light-comedy camel. Did danger lurk in the enigmatical words? Were they +obscure intimations of treasonable designs, Swing advertisements, or +masonic signs? Was the palace at Westminster in peril? had an agent of +sure of Barbarossa Joinville undermined the Trafalgar column? Were they +conspirators' watchwords, lovers' letters, signals concerted between the +robbers of Rogers's bank? We tried them anagrammatically, but in vain: +there was nought to be made of Omoo; shake it as we would, the O's came +uppermost; and by reversing Typee we obtained but a pitiful result. At +last a bright gleam broke through the mist of conjecture. Omoo was a +book. The outlandish title that had perplexed us was intended to +perplex; it was a bait thrown out to that wide-mouthed fish, the public; +a specimen of what is theatrically styled <i>gag</i>. Having but an +indifferent opinion of books ushered into existence by such +charlatanical manœuvres, we thought no more of Omoo, until, musing +the other day over our matutinal hyson, the volume itself was laid +before us, and we suddenly found ourselves in the entertaining society +of Marquesan Melville, the phœnix of modern voyagers, sprung, it +would seem, from the mingled ashes of Captain Cook and Robin Crusoe.</p> + +<p>Those who have read M. Herman Melville's former work will remember, +those who have not are informed by the introduction to the present one, +that the author, an educated American, whom circumstances had shipped as +a common sailor on board a South-Seaman, was left by his vessel on the +island of Nukuheva, one of the Marquesan group. Here he remained some +months, until taken off by a Sydney whaler, short-handed, and glad to +catch him. At this point of his adventures he commences Omoo. The title +is borrowed from the dialect of the Marquesas, and signifies a rover: +the book is excellent, quite first-rate, the "clear grit," as Mr +Melville's countrymen would say. Its chief fault, almost its only one, +interferes little with the pleasure of reading it, will escape many, and +is hardly worth insisting upon. Omoo is of the order composite, a +skilfully concocted Robinsonade, where fictitious incident is +ingeniously blended with genuine information. Doubtless its author has +visited the countries he describes, but not in the capacity he states. +He is no Munchausen; there is nothing improbable in his adventures, save +their occurrence to himself, and that he should have been a man before +the mast on board South-Sea traders, or whalers, or on any ship or ships +whatever. His speech betrayeth him. His voyages and wanderings +commenced, according to his own account,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_755" id="Page_755">[Pg 755]</a></span> at least as far back as the +year 1838; for aught we know they are not yet at an end. On leaving +Tahiti in 1843, he made sail for Japan, and the very book before us may +have been scribbled on the greasy deck of a whaler, whilst floating +amidst the coral reefs of the wide Pacific. True that in his preface, +and in the month of January of the present year, Mr Melville hails from +New York; but in such matters we really place little dependence upon +him. From his narrative we gather that this literary and gentlemanly +common-sailor is quite a young man. His life, therefore, since he +emerged from boyhood, has been spent in a ship's forecastle, amongst the +wildest and most ignorant class of mariners. Yet his tone is refined and +well-bred; he writes like one accustomed to good European society, who +has read books and collected stores of information, other than could be +perused or gathered in the places and amongst the rude associates he +describes. These inconsistencies are glaring, and can hardly be +explained. A wild freak or unfortunate act of folly, or a boyish thirst +for adventure, sometimes drives lads of education to try life before the +mast, but when suited for better things they seldom persevere; and Mr +Melville does not seem to us the manner of man to rest long contented +with the coarse company and humble lot of merchant seamen. Other +discrepancies strike us in his book and character. The train of +suspicion once lighted, the flame runs rapidly along. Our misgivings +begin with the title-page. "Lovel or Belville," says the Laird of +Monkbarns, "are just the names which youngsters are apt to assume on +such occasions." And Herman Melville sounds to us vastly like the +harmonious and carefully selected appellation of an imaginary hero of +romance. Separately the names are not uncommon; we can urge no valid +reason against their junction, and yet in this instance they fall +suspiciously on our ear. We are similarly impressed by the dedication. +Of the existence of Uncle Gansevoort, of Gansevoort, Saratoga County, we +are wholly incredulous. We shall commission our New York correspondents +to inquire as to the reality of Mr Melville's avuncular relative, and, +until certified of his corporality, shall set down the gentleman with +the Dutch patronymic as a member of an imaginary clan.</p> + +<p>Although glad to escape from Nukuheva, where he had been held in a sort +of honourable captivity, Typee—the <i>alias</i> bestowed upon the rover by +his new shipmates, after the valley whence they rescued him—was but +indifferently pleased with the vessel on which he left it, and whose +articles he signed as a seaman for one cruise. The Julia was of a +beautiful model, and on or before a wind she sailed like a witch; but +that was all that could be said in her praise. She was rotten to the +core, incommodious, and ill-provided, badly manned, and worse commanded. +American-built, she dated from the Short war, had served as a privateer, +been taken by the British, passed through many vicissitudes, and was in +no condition for a long cruise in the Pacific. So mouldering was her +fabric, that the reckless sailors, when seated in the forecastle, dug +their knives into the dank boards between them and eternity as easily as +into the moist sides of some old pollard oak. She was much dilapidated +and rapidly becoming more so; for Black Baltimore, the ship's cook, when +in want of firewood, did not scruple to hack splinters from the bits and +beams. Lugubrious indeed was the aspect of the forecastle. Landsmen, +whose ideas of a sailor's sleeping-place are taken from the snow-white +hammocks and exquisitely clean berth-deck of a man of war, or from the +rough, but substantial comfort of a well-appointed merchantman, can form +no conception of the surpassing and countless abominations of a +South-Sea whaler. The "Little Jule," as her crew affectionately styled +her, was a craft of two hundred tons or thereabouts; she had sailed with +thirty-two hands, whom desertion had reduced to twenty, but these were +too many for the cramped and putrid nook in which they slept, ate, and +smoked, and alternately desponded or were jovial, as sickness and +discomfort, or a Saturday night's bottle and hopes of better luck, got +the upper hand. Want of room, however, was one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_756" id="Page_756">[Pg 756]</a></span> the least grievances +of which the Julia's crew complained. It was a mere trifle, not worth +the naming. They could have submitted to close stowage had the dunnage +been decent. But instead of swinging in cosy hammocks, they slept in +<i>bunks</i> or wretched pigeon-holes, on fragments of sails, unclean rags, +blanket-shreds, and the like. Such unenviable accommodations ought +hardly to have been disputed with their luckless possessors, who +nevertheless were not allowed to occupy in peace their broken-down bunks +and scanty bedding. Two races of creatures, time out of mind the curse +of old ships in warm latitudes, infested the Julia's forecastle, +resisting all efforts to dislodge or exterminate them, sometimes even +getting the upper hand, dispossessing the tortured mariners, and driving +them on deck in terror and despair. The sick only, hapless martyrs +unable to leave their cribs, lay passive, if not resigned, and were +trampled under foot by their ferocious and unfragrant foes. These were +rats and cockroaches. Typee—we use the name he bore during his Julian +tribulations—records a singular phenomenon in the nocturnal habits of +the last-named vermin. "Every night they had a jubilee. The first +symptom was an unusual clustering and humming amongst the swarms lining +the beams overhead, and the inside of the sleeping-places. This was +succeeded by a prodigious coming and going on the part of those living +out of sight. Presently they all came forth; the larger sort racing over +the chests and planks; winged monsters darting to and fro in the air; +and the small fry buzzing in heaps almost in a state of fusion. On the +first alarm, all who were able darted on deck; while some of the sick, +who were too feeble, lay perfectly quiet, the distracted vermin running +over them at pleasure. The performance lasted some ten minutes." Persons +there are, weak enough to view with loathing and aversion certain sable +insects that stray at night in kitchen or in pantry, and barbarous +enough to circumvent and destroy the odoriferous coleopteræ by artful +devices of glass traps and scarlet wafers. Such persons will probably +form their ideas of Typee's cockroaches from their own domestic +opportunities of observation. That were unjust to the crew of the Julia, +and would give no adequate idea of their sufferings. As a purring tabby +to a roaring jaguar, so is a British black-beetle to a cock-roach of the +Southern Seas. We back our assertion by a quotation from our lamented +friend Captain Cringle, who in his especially graphic and attractive +style thus hits off the peculiarities of this graceful insect. "When +full grown," saith Thomas, "it is a large dingy brown-coloured beetle, +about two inches long, with six legs, and two feelers as long as its +body. It has a strong anti-hysterical flavour, something between rotten +cheese and asafœtida, and seldom stirs abroad when the sun is up, but +lies concealed in the most obscure and obscene crevices it can creep +into; so that, when it is seen, its wings and body are thickly covered +with dust and dirt of various shades, which any culprit who chances to +fall asleep with his mouth open, is sure to reap the benefit of, as it +has a great propensity to walk into it, partly for the sake of the +crumbs adhering to the masticators, and also, apparently, with a +scientific desire to inspect, by accurate admeasurement with the +aforesaid antennæ, the state and condition of the whole potato-trap." A +description worthy of Buffon. Such were the delicate monsters, the +savoury sexipedes, with whom Typee and his comrades had to wage +incessant war. They were worse even than the rats, which were certainly +bad enough. "Tame as Trenck's mouse, they stood in their holes, peering +at you like old grandfathers in a doorway;" watching for their prey, and +disputing with the sailors the weevil-biscuit, rancid pork, and +horse-beef, composing the Julia's stores; or smothering themselves, the +luscious vermin, in molasses, which thereby acquired a rich wood-cock +flavour, whose cause became manifest when the treacle-jar ran low, +greatly to the disgust and consternation of the biped consumers. There +were no delicate feeders on board, but this saccharine essence of rat +was too much even for the unscrupulous stomachs of South-Sea whalers. A +queer set they were on board that Sydney barque. Paper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_757" id="Page_757">[Pg 757]</a></span> Jack, the +captain, was a feeble Cockney, of meek spirit and puny frame, who glided +about the vessel in a nankeen jacket and canvass pumps, a laughing-stock +to his crew. The real command devolved upon the chief mate, John +Jermin—a good sailor and brave fellow, but violent, and given to drink. +The junior mate had deserted; of the four harpooners only one was left, +a fierce barbarian of a New Zealander—an excellent mariner, whose stock +of English was limited to nautical phrases and a frightful power of +oath, but who, in spite of his cannibal origin, ranked as a sort of +officer, in virtue of his harpoon, and took command of the ship when +mate and captain were absent. What a capital story, by the bye, Typee +tells us of one of this Bembo's whaling exploits! New Zealanders are +brave and bloodthirsty, and excellent harpooners, and they act up to the +South-Seaman's war-cry, "A dead whale or a stove boat!" There is a world +of wild romance and thrilling adventure in the occasional glimpses of +the whale fishery afforded us in Omoo; a strange picturesqueness and +piratical mystery about the lawless class of seamen engaged in it. Such +a portrait gallery as Typee makes out of the Julia's crew, beginning +with Chips and Bungs, the carpenter and cooper, the "Cods," or leaders +of the forecastle, and descending until he arrives at poor Rope Yarn, or +Ropey, as he was called, a stunted journeyman baker from Holborn, the +most helpless and forlorn of all land-lubbers, the butt and drudge of +the ship's company! A Dane, a Portuguese, a Finlander, a savage +from Hivarhoo, sundry English, Irish, and Americans, a daring +Yankee <i>beach-comber</i>, called Salem, and Sydney Ben, a runaway +ticket-of-leave-man, made up a crew much too weak to do any good in the +whaling way. But the best fellow on board, and by far the most +remarkable, was a disciple of Esculapius, known as Doctor Long-Ghost. +Jermin is a good portrait; so is Captain Guy; but Long-Ghost is a jewel +of a boy, a complete original, hit off with uncommon felicity. Nothing +is told us of his early life. Typee takes him up on board the Julia, +shakes hands with him in the last page of the book, and informs us that +he has never since seen or heard of him. So we become acquainted with +but a small section of the doctor's life; his subsequent adventures are +unknown, and, save a chance hint or two, his previous career is a +mystery, unfathomable as the Tahitian coast, where, within a biscuit's +toss of the coral shore, soundings there are none. Now and then he would +obscurely refer to days more palmy and prosperous than those spent on +board the Julia. But however great the contrast between his former +fortunes and his then lowly position, he exhibited much calm philosophy +and cheerful resignation. He was even merry and facetious, a practical +wag of the very first order, and as such a great favourite with the +whole ship's company, the captain excepted. He had arrived at Sydney in +an emigrant ship, had expended his resources, and entered as doctor on +board the Julia. All British whalers are bound to carry a medico, who is +treated as a gentleman, so long as he behaves as such, and has nothing +to do but to drug the men and play drafts with the captain. At first +Long-Ghost and Captain Guy hit it off very well; until, in an unlucky +hour, a dispute about politics destroyed their harmonious association. +The captain got a thrashing; the mutinous doctor was put in confinement +and on bread and water, ran away from the ship, was pursued, captured, +and again imprisoned. Released at last, he resigned his office, refused +to do duty, and went forward amongst the men. This was more magnanimous +than wise. Long-Ghost was a sort of medical Tom Coffin, a raw-boned +giant, upwards of two yards high, one of those men to whom the +between-decks of a small craft is a residence little less afflicting +than one of Cardinal Balue's iron cages. And to one who "had certainly, +at some time or other, spent money, drunk Burgundy, and associated with +gentlemen," the Julia's forecastle must have contained a host of +disagreeables, irrespective of rats and cockroaches, of its low roof, +evil odours, damp timbers, and dungeon-like aspect. The captain's table, +if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_758" id="Page_758">[Pg 758]</a></span> less luxurious than that of a royal yacht or New York liner, surely +offered something better than the biscuits, hard as gun-flints and +thoroughly honeycombed, and the shot-soup, "great round peas polishing +themselves like pebbles by rolling about in tepid water," on which the +restive man of medicine was fain to exercise his grinders during his +abode forward. As regarded society, he lost little by relinquishing that +of Guy the Cockney, since he obtained in exchange the intimacy of +Melville the Yankee, who, to judge from his book, must be exceeding good +company, and to whom he was a great resource. The doctor was a man of +learning and accomplishments, who had made the most of his time whilst +the sun shone on his side the hedge, and had rolled his ungainly carcass +over half the world. "He quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbes of +Malmsbury, besides repeating poetry by the canto, especially Hudibras. +In the easiest way imaginable, he could refer to an amour he had in +Palermo, his lion-hunting before breakfast among the Caffres, and the +quality of the coffee to be drunk in Muscat." Strangely must such +reminiscences have sounded in a whaler's forecastle, with Dunks the +Dane, Finland Van, and Wymontoo the Savage, for auditors.</p> + +<p>The Julia had hitherto had little luck in her cruise, and could scarcely +hope for better in the state in which Typee found her. Besides the +losses by desertion, her crew was weakened by disease. Several of the +men lay sick in their berths, wholly unfit for duty. The captain himself +was ill, and all would have derived benefit from a short sojourn in +port; but this could not be thought of. The discipline of the ship was +bad, and the sailors, desperate and unruly fellows, discontented, as +well they might be, with their wretched provisions and uncomfortable +state, were not to be trusted on or near shore. Three-fourths of them, +had they once set foot on dry land, would have absconded, taken refuge +in the woods or amongst the savages, and have submitted to any amount of +tattoo, paint, and nose-ringing, rather than return to the ship. +Already, at St Christina, one of the Marquesas, a large party had made +their escape in two of the four whale-boats, scuttling the third, and +cutting the tackles of the fourth nearly through, so that when Bembo +jumped in to clear it away, man and boat went souse into the water. By +the assistance of a French corvette, and by bribing the king of the +country with a musket and ammunition, the fugitives were captured. But +it was more than probable that they and others would renew the attempt +should opportunity offer; so there was no alternative but to keep the +sea, and hope for better days and for the convalescence of the invalids. +Two of these died. Neither Bible nor Prayer-book were on board the +godless craft, and like dogs, without form of Christian burial, the dead +were launched into the deep. The situation of the survivors inspired +with considerable uneasiness the few amongst them capable of reflection. +The captain was ignorant of navigation; it was the mate who, from the +commencement of the voyage, had kept the ship's reckoning, and kept it +all to himself. He had only to get washed overboard in a gale, or to +walk over in a drunken fit, to leave his shipmates in a fix of the most +unpleasant description, ignorant of latitude, longitude, and of +everything else necessary to be known to guide the vessel on her course. +And as to the sperm whales, which Jermin had promised them in such +abundance that they would only have to strike and take, not a single fin +showed itself. At last the captain was reported dying, and the mate took +counsel with Long-Ghost, Typee, and others of the crew. He would gladly +have continued the cruise, but his wish was overruled, and the whaler's +stern was turned towards the Society Islands.</p> + +<p>The first glimpse of the peaks of Tahiti was hailed with transport by +the Julia's weary mariners. They had got a notion that if the captain +left the ship, their articles were no longer binding, and they should be +free to follow his example. And, at any rate, the sickness on board and +the shaky condition of the barque, guaranteed them, as they thought, +long and blissful leisure amongst the waving palm-groves and soft-eyed +Neuhas of Polynesia. Their arrival in sight of Papeetee, the Tahitian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_759" id="Page_759">[Pg 759]</a></span> +capital, was welcomed by the boom of cannon. The frigate Reine Blanche, +at whose fore flew the flag of Admiral Du Petit Thouars, thus celebrated +the compulsory treaty, concluded that morning, by which the island was +ceded to the French.</p> + +<p>Captain Guy and his baggage were now set on shore, and it was soon +apparent to his men that whilst he nursed himself in the pure climate +and pleasant shades of Tahiti, they were to put to sea under the mate's +orders, and after a certain time to touch again at the island, and take +off their commander. The vessel was not even allowed to go into port, +although needing repairs, and in fact unseaworthy; and as to healing the +sick, selfish Paper Jack thought only of solacing his own infirmities. +The fury of the ill-fed, reckless, discontented crew, on discovering the +project of their superiors, passed all bounds. Chips and Bungs +volunteered to head a mutiny, and a round-robin was drawn up and signed. +But when Wilson, an old acquaintance of Guy's, and acting consul in the +absence of missionary Pritchard, came on board, the gallant cooper, who +derived much of his courage from the grog-kid, was cowed and craven. The +grievances brought forward, amongst others that of the <i>salt-horse</i>, (a +horse's hoof with the shoe on, so swore the cook, had been found in the +pickle,) were treated as trifles and pooh-poohed by the functionary, "a +minute gentleman with a viciously pugged nose, and a decidedly thin pair +of legs." But if Bungs allowed himself to be brow-beaten, so did not his +comrades. Yankee Salem flourished a bowie-knife, and such alarming +demonstrations were made, that the <i>counsellor</i>, as the sailors +persisted in calling the consul, thought it wise to beat a retreat. +Jermin now tried his hand, holding out brilliant prospects of a rich +cargo of sperm oil, and a pocket-full of dollars for every man on his +return to Sydney. The mutineers were proof alike against menace and +blandishment, and, at the secret instigation of Long Ghost and Typee, +resolutely refused to do duty. The consul, who had promised to return, +did not show; and at last the mate, having now but a few invalids and +landsmen to work the ship and keep her off shore, was compelled to enter +the harbour. The Julia came to an anchor within cable's length of the +French frigate, on board which consul Wilson repaired to obtain +assistance. The Reine Blanche was to sail in a few days for Valparaiso, +and the mutineers expected to go with her and be delivered up to a +British man-of-war. Undismayed by this prospect, they continued stanch +in their contumacy, and presently an armed cutter, "painted a 'pirate +black,' its crew a dark, grim-looking set, and the officers uncommonly +fierce-looking little Frenchmen," conveyed them on board the frigate, +where they were duly handcuffed, and secured by the ankle to a great +iron bar bolted down to the berth-deck.</p> + +<p>Touching the proceedings on board the French man-of-war, its imperfect +discipline, and the strange, un-nautical way of carrying on the duty, +Typee is jocular and satirical. American though he be—and, but for +occasional slight yankeeisms in his style, we might have doubted even +that fact—he has evidently much more sympathy with his cousin John Bull +than with his country's old allies, the French, whom he freely admits to +be a clever and gallant nation, whilst he broadly hints that their +valour is not likely to be displayed to advantage on the water. He finds +too much of the military style about their marine institutions. Sailors +should be fighting men, but not soldiers or musket-carriers, as they all +are in turn in the French navy. He laughs at or objects to every thing; +the mustaches of the officers, the system of punishment, the sour wine +that replaces rum and water, the soup instead of junk, the pitiful +little rolls baked on board, and distributed in lieu of hard biscuit. +And whilst praising the build of their ships—the only thing about them +he does praise—he ejaculates a hope, which sounds like a doubt, that +they will not some day fall into the hands of the people across the +Channel. "In case of war," he says, "what a fluttering of French ensigns +there would be! for the Frenchman makes but an indifferent seaman, and +though for the most part he fights well enough, somehow or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_760" id="Page_760">[Pg 760]</a></span> other, he +seldom fights well enough to beat:"—at sea, be it understood. We are +rather at a loss to comprehend the familiarity shown by Typee with the +internal arrangements and architecture of the Reine Blanche. His time on +board was passed in fetters; at nightfall on the fifth day he left the +ship. How, we are curious to know, did he become acquainted with the +minute details of "the crack craft in the French navy," with the +disposition of her guns and decks, the complicated machinery by which +certain exceedingly simple things were done, and even with the rich +hangings, mirrors, and mahogany of the commodore's cabin? Surely the +ragged and disreputable mutineer of the Julia, whose foot had scarcely +touched the gangway, when he was hurried into confinement below, could +have had scanty opportunity for such observations: unless, indeed, +Herman Melville, or Typee, or the Rover, or by whatever other <i>alias</i> he +be known, instead of creeping in at the hawse-holes, was welcomed on the +quarter-deck and admitted to the gun-room, or to the commodore's cabin, +an honoured guest in broad-cloth, not a despised merchant seaman in +canvass frock and hat of tarpaulin. We shall not dwell on these small +inconsistencies and oversights in an amusing book. We prefer +accompanying the Julia's crew to Tahiti, where they were put on shore +contrary to their expectations, and not altogether to their +satisfaction, since they had anticipated a rapid run to Valparaiso, the +fag-end of a cruise in an English man-of-war, and a speedy discharge at +Portsmouth. Paper Jack and Consul Wilson had other designs, and still +hoped to reclaim them to their duty on board the crazy Julia. On their +stubborn refusal, they were given in charge to a fat, good-humoured, old +Tahitian, called Captain Bob, who, at the head of an escort of natives, +conveyed them up the country to a sort of shed, known as the Calabooza +Beretanee or English jail, used as a prison for refractory sailors. This +commences Typee's shore-going adventures, not less pleasant and original +than his sea-faring ones; although it is with some regret that we lose +sight of the vermin-haunted barque, on whose board such strange and +exciting scenes occurred.</p> + +<p>Throughout the book, however, fun and incident abound, and we are +consoled for our separation from poor little Jule, by the curious +insight we obtain into the manners, morals, and condition of the gentle +savages, on whom an attempted civilisation has brought far more curses +than blessings.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"How pleasant were the songs of Toobonai,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>how gladsome and grateful the rustle of leaves and tinkle of rills, and +silver-toned voices of Tahitian maidens, to the rough seamen who had so +long been "cabined, cribbed, confined," in the Julia's filthy +forecastle! Not that they were allowed free range of the Eden of the +South Seas. On board the Reine Blanche their ankles had been manacled to +an iron bar; in the Calabooza, (from the Spanish <i>calabozo</i>, a dungeon,) +they were placed in rude wooden stocks twenty feet long, constructed for +the particular benefit of refractory mariners. There they lay, merry men +all of a row, fed upon <i>taro</i> (Indian turnip) and bread-fruit, and +covered up at night with one huge counterpane of brown <i>tappa</i>, the +native cloth. It was owing to no friendly indulgence on the part of Guy +and the consul, that their diet was so agreeable and salutary. Every +morning Ropey came grinning into the prison, with a bucket full of the +old worm-eaten biscuit from the Julia. It was a huge treat to the +unfortunate Cockney, thus to be instrumental in the annoyance of his +former persecutors; and lucky for him that their limbo'd legs prevented +their rewarding his visible exultation otherwise than by a shower of +maledictions. They swore to starve rather than consume the maggoty +provender. Luckily the natives had it in very different estimation. They +did not mind maggots, and held British biscuit to be a piquant and +delicious delicacy. So in exchange for their allotted ration, the +mutineers obtained a small quantity of vegetable food, and an unlimited +supply of oranges, thanks to which refreshing regimen the sick were +speedily restored to health. And after a few days of stocks and +submission, jolly old Captain Bob, who spoke sailor's English, and +obstinately<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_761" id="Page_761">[Pg 761]</a></span> claimed intimacy with Captain Cook,—whose visit to the +island had occurred some years before his birth—relaxed his severity, +and allowed the captives their freedom during the day. They profited of +this permission to forage a little, in a quiet way; assisting at +pig-killings, and dropping in at dinner-time upon the wealthier of their +neighbours. Tahitian hospitality is boundless, and the more praiseworthy +that the island, although so fertile, produces but a scanty amount of +edibles. Bread-fruit is the chief resource; fish, a very important one, +the chief dependence of many of the poorer natives. There is little +industry amongst them, and on the spontaneous produce of the soil the +shipping make heavy demands. Polynesian indolence is proverbial. Very +light labour would enable the Tahitians to roll in riches, at least +according to their own estimate of the value of money and of the +luxuries it procures. The sugar-cane is indigenous to the island, and of +remarkably fine quality; cotton is of ready growth; but the fine +existing plantations "are owned and worked by whites, who would rather +pay a drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars a month, than +hire a sober native for his fish and <i>taro</i>." Wholly without energy, the +Tahitians saunter away their lives in a state of drowsy indolence, +aiming only at the avoidance of trouble, and the sensual enjoyment of +the moment. The race rapidly diminishes. "In 1777, Captain Cook +estimated the population of Tahiti at about two hundred thousand. By a +regular census taken some four or five years ago, it was found to be +only nine thousand!" Diseases of various kinds, entirely of European +introduction, and chiefly the result of drunkenness and debauchery, +account for this frightful decrease, which must result in the extinction +of the aborigines.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The palm-tree shall grow,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The coral shall spread,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But man shall cease."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>So runs an old Tahitian prophecy, soon to be realised. And if Pomaree, +who is under forty years of age, proves a long-lived sovereign, she may +chance to find herself a queen without subjects. Concerning her majesty +and her court, Typee is diffuse and diverting. This is an age of queens, +and although her dominions be of the smallest, her people few and +feeble, and her prerogative wofully clipped, she of Tahiti has made some +noise in the world, and attracted a fair share of public attention. At +one time, indeed, she was almost as much thought of and talked about as +her more civilised and puissant European sisters. In France, <i>La Reine +Pomarée</i> was looked upon as a far more interesting personage than +Spanish Isabel or Portuguese Maria; and extraordinary notions were +formed as to the appearance, habits, and attributes of her dusky +majesty. Distance favoured delusion, and French imagination ran riot in +conjecture, until the reports of the valiant Thonars, and his squadron +of protection, dissipated the enchantment, and reduced Pomaree to her +true character, that of a lazy, dirty, licentious, Polynesian savage, +who walks about barefoot, drinks spirits, and hen-pecks her husband. Her +real name is Aimata, but she assumed, on ascending the throne, the royal +patronymic by which she is best known. There were Cæsars in Rome, there +are Pomarees in Tahiti. The name was originally assumed by the great +Otoo, (to be read of in Captain Cook,) who united the whole island under +one crown. It descended to his son, and then to his grandson, who came +to the throne an infant, and, dying young, was succeeded by her present +majesty, Pomaree Vahinee I., the first female Pomaree. This lady has +been twice married. Her first husband was a king's son, but the union +was ill assorted, a divorce obtained, and she took up with one Tanee, a +chief from the neighbouring island of Imeco. She leads him a dog's life, +and he consoles himself by getting drunk. In that state, he now and then +violently breaks out, contemns the royal authority, thrashes his wife, +and smashes the crockery. Captain Bob gave Typee an account of a burst +of this sort, which occurred about seven years ago. Stimulated by the +seditious advice of his boon companions, and under the influence of an +unusually large dose of strong waters, the turbulent king-consort forgot +the respect due to his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_762" id="Page_762">[Pg 762]</a></span> wife and sovereign, mounted his horse, and ran +full tilt at the royal cavalcade, out for their afternoon ride in the +park. One maid of honour was floored, the rest fled in terror, save and +except Pomaree, who stood her ground like a man, and apostrophised her +insubordinate spouse in the choicest Tahitian Billingsgate. For once her +eloquence failed of effect. Dragged from her horse, her personal charms +were deteriorated by a severe thumping on the face. This done, +Othello-Tanee attempted to strangle her, and was in a fair way to +succeed, when her loving subjects came to her rescue. So heinous a crime +could not be overlooked, and Tanee, was banished to his native island; +but after a short time he declared his penitence, made <i>amende +honorable</i>, and was restored to favour. He does not very often venture +to thwart the will of his royal wife, much less to raise his hand +against her sacred person, but submits with exemplary patience to her +caprices and abuse, and even to the manual admonitions she not +unfrequently bestows upon him.</p> + +<p>Upon the whole, life, at the Calabooza was not very disagreeable. The +prisoners, now only nominally so, had little to complain of, except +occasional short commons, arising not from unwillingness, but from +disability, on the part of the kind-hearted natives, to satisfy the +cravings of the hungry whalers, whose appetites were remarkable, +especially that of lanky Doctor Long Ghost. The doctor was a stickler +for quality as well as quantity; the memory of his claret and beccafico +days still clung to him, like the scent of the roses to Tom Moore's +broken gallipot: he was curious in condiments, and whilst devouring, +grumbled at the unseasoned viands of Tahiti. Cayenne and Harvey abounded +not in those latitudes, but pepper and salt were on board the Julia, and +the doctor prevailed on Rope Yarn to bring him a supply. "This he placed +in a small leather wallet, a monkey bag (so called by sailors) usually +worn as a purse about the neck. 'In my poor opinion,' said Long Ghost, +as he tucked the wallet out of sight, 'it behoves a stranger in Tahiti +to have his knife in readiness, and his castor slung.'" And thus +equipped, the doctor and his brethren in captivity rambled over the +verdant slopes and through the cool groves of Tahiti, bathed in the +mountain streams, and luxuriated in orange orchards, where "the trees +formed a dense shade, spreading overhead a dark, rustling vault, groined +with boughs, and studded here and there with the ripened spheres, like +gilded balls." Then they had plenty of society; native visitors flocked +to see them, and Doctor Johnson, a resident English physician, was +constant in his attendance, knowing that the Consul must pay his bill. +Three French priests also called upon them, one of whom proved to be no +Frenchman, but a portly, handsome, good-humoured Irishman, well known +and much disliked by the Polynesian protestant missionaries. A strong +attempt was made by Guy and Wilson to get the men to do duty. A schooner +was about to sail for Sydney, and they were threatened to be sent +thither for trial. They still refused to hand rope or break biscuit on +board the Julia. Long Ghost made some cutting remarks on the captain; +and the sailors, who had been taken down to the Consul's office for +examination, began to bully, and talked of carrying off Consul and +Captain to bear them company in the Calabooza. The same ill success +attended subsequent attempts, until Captain Guy was compelled to look +out for another crew, which he obtained with difficulty, and by a +considerable advance of hard dollars. And at last, "It was Sunday in +Tahiti, and a glorious morning, when Captain Bob, waddling into the +Calabooza, startled us by announcing, 'Ah, my boy—shippee you, +harree—maky sail!' in other words, the Julia was off," and had taken +her stores of old biscuit with her: so the next morning the inmates of +the Calabooza were without rations. The Consul would supply none, and it +was pretty evident that he rather desired the departure of the obstinate +seamen from that part of the island. The whole of his proceedings with +regard to them had served but to render him ridiculous, and he wished +them out of his neighbourhood; but the ex-prisoners found themselves +pretty comfortable, and preferred remaining. They were better off than +they had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_763" id="Page_763">[Pg 763]</a></span> for some time been, for Jermin—not such a bad fellow, after +all—had sent them their chests ashore; and these, besides supplying +them with sundry necessaries, gave them immense importance in Tahitian +eyes. They had been kindly treated before, but now they were courted and +flattered, like younger sons in marching regiments, who suddenly step +into the family acres. The natives crowded round them, eager to swear +eternal friendship, according to an old Polynesian custom, once +universal in the islands, but that has fallen into considerable disuse, +except when something is to be gained by its observance. A gentleman of +the name of Kooloo fixed his affections upon Typee—or rather upon his +goods and chattels; for when he had wheedled him out of a regatta shirt, +and other small pieces of finery, he transferred his affections to a +newly-arrived sailor, whose chest was better lined, and who bestowed on +him a love-token, in the shape of a heavy pea-jacket. In this garment, +closely buttoned up, Kooloo took morning promenades, with the tropical +sun glaring down upon him. He frequently met his former friend, but +passed him with a careless "How d'ye do?" which presently dwindled into +a nod. "In one week's time," says poor Typee, "he gave me the cut +direct, and lounged by without even nodding. He must have taken me for +part of the landscape."</p> + +<p>After a while the contents of the chests, and even the chests +themselves—esteemed by the Tahitians most valuable pieces of +furniture—were given or bartered away, and, as the Consul still refused +them rations, the sailors knew not how to live. The natives helped them +as much as they could, but their larders were scantily furnished, and +they grew tired of feeding fifteen hungry idlers. So at last the latter +made a morning call upon the Consul, who, being unwilling to withdraw, +and equally so to press, charges which he knew would not be sustained, +refused to have any thing to say to them. Thereupon some of the party, +strong in principle and resolution, and seeing how grievous an annoyance +their presence was to their enemy, Wilson, swore to abide near him and +never to leave him. Others, less obstinate or more impatient of a +change, resolved to decamp from the Calabooza. The first to depart were +Typee and Long Ghost. They had received intelligence of a new plantation +in Imeco, recently formed by foreigners, who wanted white labourers, and +were expected at Papeetee to seek them. With these men they took service +under the names of Peter and Paul, at wages of fifteen silver dollars a +month; and, after an affecting separation from their shipmates—whose +respectable character may be judged of by the fact, that one of them +picked Long Ghost's pocket in the very act of embracing him,—they +sailed away for Imeco, and arrived without accident in the valley of +Martair, where the plantation was situate. The chapters recording their +stay here are amongst the very best in the book, full of rich, quiet +fun. Typee gives a capital description of his employers. They were two +in number, both "whole-souled fellows; one was a tall robust Yankee, +born in the backwoods of Maine, sallow, and with a long face; the other, +a short little Cockney who had first clapped his eyes on the Monument." +Zeke the Yankee, had christened his comrade "Shorty;" and Shorty looked +up to him with respect, and yielded to him in most things. Both showed +themselves well disposed towards their new labourers, whom they at once +discovered to be superior to their station. And they soon found their +society so agreeable, that they were willing to keep them to do little +more than nominal work. As to making them efficient farm servants, they +quickly gave up that idea. As a sailor, Typee had little fancy for +husbandry; and the doctor found his long back terribly in his way when +requested to dig potatoes and root up stumps, under a sun which, as +Shorty said, "was hot enough to melt the nose hoff a brass monkey." Long +Ghost very soon gave in; the extraction of a single tree-root settled +him; he pleaded illness, and retired to his hammock, but was +considerably vexed when he heard the Yankee propose a bullock hunting +expedition, in which, as a sick man, he could not decently take part. +This was only the prologue to his annoyances. Musquitoes, unknown in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_764" id="Page_764">[Pg 764]</a></span> +Tahiti, abound in Imeeo. They were brought there, according to a native +tradition, by one Nathan Coleman, of Nantucket, who, in revenge for some +fancied grievance, towed a rotten water-cask ashore, and left it in a +neglected <i>taro</i> patch, where the ground was moist and warm. Musquitoes +were the result. "When tormented by them, I found much relief in +coupling the word Coleman with another of one syllable, and pronouncing +them together energetically." The musquito chapter is very amusing, +showing the various comical and ingenious manœuvres of the friends to +avoid their tormentors, and obtain a night's sleep. At last they entered +a fishing canoe, paddled some distance from shore, and dropped the +native anchor, a stone secured to a rope. They were awakened in the +morning by the motion of their boat. Zeke was wading in the shallow +water, and towing them from a reef towards which they had drifted. "The +water-sprites had rolled our stone out of its noose, and we had floated +away." This was a narrow escape, but nevertheless they stuck to their +floating bedstead as the only possible sleeping place. A day's +successful hunting, followed by a famous supper and jollification under +a banian-tree, put the doctor in good humour, and he made himself vastly +agreeable. The natives beheld his waggish pranks with infinite +admiration, and Zeke looked upon him with particular favour; so much so, +that when upon the following morning an order came from a ship at +Papeetee, for a supply of potatoes, he almost hesitated to tell funny +Peter to assist in digging them up. But the emergency pressed, and the +work must be done. So Peter and Paul were set to unearth the vegetables. +This was no very cruel task, for "the rich tawny soil seemed specially +adapted to the crop; the great yellow murphies rolling out of the hills +like eggs from a nest." But when they were dug up, they had to be +carried to the beach; and to this part of the business the lazy +adventurers had a special dislike, although Zeke kindly provided them, +to lighten their toil, with what he called the barrel machine—a sort of +rural sedan, in which the servants carried their loads with comparative +ease, whilst their employers sweated under shouldered hampers. But no +alleviation could reconcile the sailor and the physician to this novel +and unpleasant labour, and the potato-digging was the last piece of +work, deserving the name, that either of them did. A few days afterwards +they gave their masters warning, greatly to the vexation of Zeke, +although he received the notice—with true Yankee imperturbability. He +proposed that Long Ghost, who, after the hunt, had shown, considerable +culinary skill, should assume the office of cook, and that Paul-Typee +should only work when it suited him, which would not have been very +often. The offer was friendly and favourable, but it was refused. A +hospitable invitation to remain as guests as long as was convenient to +them, was likewise rejected, and, bent upon a ramble, the restless +adventurers left the vale of Martair. Even greater inducements would +probably have been insufficient to keep them there. They had been so +long on the rove, that change of scene had become essential to their +happiness. The doctor, especially, was anxious to be off to Tamai, an +inland village on the borders of a lake, where the fruits were the +finest, and the women the most beautiful and unsophisticated in all the +Society Islands. Epicurean Long Ghost had set his mind upon visiting +this terrestrial paradise, and thither his steady chum willingly +accompanied him. It was a day's journey on foot, allowing time for +dinner and siesta; and the path lay through wood and ravine, unpeopled +save by wild cattle. About noon they reached the heart of the island, +thus pleasantly described. "It was a green, cool hollow among the +mountains, into which we at last descended with a bound. The place was +gushing with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn trees, +on whose mossy boles the moisture stood in beads." There is something +delightfully hydropathic in these lines; they cool one like a +shower-bath. He is a prime fellow, this common sailor Melville, at such +scraps of description, terse and true, placing the scene before us in +ten words. In long yarns he indulges not, but of such happy touches as +the above, we could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_765" id="Page_765">[Pg 765]</a></span> quote a score. We have not room, either for them, +or for an account of the valley of Tamai, its hospitable inhabitants, +and its heathenish dances, performed in secret, and in dread of the +missionaries, by whom such saturnalia are forbidden. The place was +altogether so pleasant, that the doctor and his friend entertained +serious thoughts of settling there, or at least of making a long stay, +when one morning they were put to flight by the arrival of strangers, +said to be missionaries, with whom, vagrants as they were, they had no +wish to fall in. So they returned to their friend Zeke, nursing new and +ambitious projects. They had no intention of remaining with the +good-hearted Yankee, but merely paid him a flying visit, and that with +an interested motive. What they wanted of him was this. Although feeling +themselves gentlemen every inch, they were not always able to convince +the world of their respectability. So they resolved to have a passport, +and pitched upon Zeke to manufacture it, he being well known and much +respected in Imeeo. Zeke was gratified by the compliment, and set to +work with a rooster's quill, and a piece of dirty paper. "Evidently he +was not accustomed to composition; for his literary throes were so +violent, that the doctor suggested that some sort of a Cæsarian +operation might be necessary. The precious paper was at last finished; +and a great curiosity it was. We were much diverted with his reasons for +not dating it. 'In this here damned climate,' he observed, 'a feller +can't keep the run of the months, no how; 'cause there's no seasons, no +summer and winter to go by. One's etarnally thinking it's always July, +it's so pesky hot.' A passport provided, we cast about for some means of +getting to Taloo."</p> + +<p>The decline of the Tahitian monarchy—the degradation of the regal house +of Pomaree, is painful to contemplate. The queen still wears a crown—a +tinsel one, received as a present from her sister-sovereign of +England,—she has also a court and a palace, such as they are; but her +power is little more than nominal, her exchequer seldom otherwise than +empty. Typee draws a touching contrast between times past and present. +"'I'm a greater man than King George,' said the incorrigible young Otoo, +to the first missionaries; 'he rides on a horse and I on a man.' Such +was the case. He travelled post through his dominions on the shoulders +of his subjects, and relays of immortal beings were provided in all the +valleys. But, alas! how times have changed! how transient human +greatness! Some years since, Pomaree Vahinee I., granddaughter of the +proud Otoo, went into the laundry business, publicly soliciting, by her +agents, the washing of the linen belonging to officers of ships touching +in her harbours." Into the court of this washerwoman-queen, Typee and +Long Ghost were exceedingly anxious to penetrate. Vague ideas of favour +and preferment haunted their brains. During their Polynesian cruise, +they had seen many instances of rapid advancement; vagabond foreigners, +of all nations, domesticated in the families of chiefs and kings, and +sometimes married to their daughters and sharing their power. At one of +the Tonga islands, a scamp of a Welshman officiated as cupbearer to the +king of the cannibals. The monarch of the Sandwich islands has three +foreigners about his court—a Negro to beat the drum, a wooden-legged +Portuguese to play the fiddle, and Mordecai, a juggler, to amuse his +majesty with cups and balls and sleight of hand. On the Marquesan island +of Hivarhoo, they had found an English sailor who had attained to the +highest dignity in the country. He had deserted from a merchant ship, +and at once set up, on his own hook, as an independent sovereign, +without dominions, but by disposition most belligerent. A musket and a +store of cartridges were his whole possessions; but in a land where war +was rife, carried on with the primitive weapons of spear and javelin, +they were sufficiently important to make a native prince covet his +alliance. His first battle was a decisive victory, a perfect Waterloo, +and he became the Wellington of Hivarhoo, receiving, as reward for his +distinguished services, the hand of a princess, and a splendid dowry of +hogs, mats, and other produce. To conform to the prejudices of his new +family, he allowed himself to be tattooed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_766" id="Page_766">[Pg 766]</a></span> tabooed, and otherwise +paganized, becoming as big a savage as any in the island. A blue shark +adorned his forehead; a broad bar, of the same colour, traversed his +face. The tabooing was a less ornamental but more decidedly useful +formality, for by it his person was declared sacred and inviolable. +Typee and his medical friend had a strong prejudice against cerulean +sharks and the like embellishments; but if these could be dispensed +with, they felt no disinclination to form part of Pomaree's household. +They had not quite made up their minds what office would best suit them, +but their circumstances were unprosperous, and they resolved not to be +particular. They understood that the queen was mustering around her all +the foreigners she could recruit, to make head against the French. She +was then at Taloo, a village on the coast of Imeeo, and thither the two +adventurers betook themselves, hoping to be at once elevated to +important posts at court; but quite resigned, in case of disappointment, +to work as day-labourers in a sugar-plantation, or go to sea in a +whaler, then in the harbour for wood and water. Disgusted with their +desultory, hand-to-mouth existence, they yearned after respectability +and a prime-ministership. To their sanguine anticipations, both of these +seemed easy of attainment. Long Ghost, indeed, who, amongst his various +accomplishments, was a very Orpheus upon the violin, insisted strongly +upon the probability of his becoming a Tahitian Rizzio. But a necessary +preliminary to the realisation of these day-dreams, was a presentation +at court, and that was difficult to obtain. Once before Queen Pomaree, +they doubted not but she, with Napoleonic sagacity, would discern their +merits, and forthwith make Typee her admiral, and Long Ghost +inspector-general of hospitals. But they lacked an introduction. The +proper course, according to the practice of travelling nobodies, +desirous of intruding their plebeianism into a foreign court, would have +been to apply to their ambassadors. Unfortunately Deputy-Consul Wilson, +the only person at hand of a diplomatic character, was by no means +disposed to act as master of the ceremonies to the insurgents of the +Julia. And their costume, it must be confessed, scarcely qualified them +to appear at levee or drawing-room. A short time previously, their +ragged and variegated garb had given them much the look of a brace of +Polynesian Robert Macaires. Typee had made himself a new frock out of +two old ones, a blue and a red, the irregular mingling of the colours +producing a pleasing parrot-like effect; a tattered shirt of printed +calico was twisted round his head, turban-fashion, the sleeves dangling +behind, and bullock's-hide sandals protected his feet. The doctor was +still more fantastical in his attire. He sported a <i>roora</i>, a garment +similar to the South American poncho, a sort of mantle or blanket, with +a hole in the centre, through which the head passes. This simple article +of apparel, which in the doctor's case was of coarse brown tappa, fell +in folds around his angular carcass, and in conjunction with a +broad-brimmed hat of Panama grass, gave him the aspect of a decayed +grandee. Thus clad, the two friends arrived in the neighbourhood of the +royal residence, and there were fortunate enough to fall in with Mrs +Po-Po, a benevolent Tahitian matron, who provided them with clean frocks +and trousers, such as sailors wear, and in all respects was as good as a +mother to them. Her husband, Jeremiah Po-Po, a man of substance and +consideration, made them welcome in his house, fed and fostered them, +without hope of fee or recompense. A little of this generous hospitality +was owing to the hypocrisy of that villain, Long Ghost, who, finding his +entertainers devoutly disposed, muttered a "Grace before Meat" over the +succulent little porkers, baked <i>à la façon de Barbarie</i> in the ground, +upon which their kind-hearted Amphitrion regaled them. But neither clean +canvass, nor simulated piety, sufficed to draw upon the ambitious +schemers the favourable notice of Queen Pomaree. Accustomed to sailors, +she held them cheap. A uniform, though but the moth-eaten undress of a +militia ensign, would have been a powerful auxiliary to their projects +of aggrandisement. Like some others of her sex, Pomaree loves a +soldier's coat, and maintained in more prosperous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_767" id="Page_767">[Pg 767]</a></span> days a formidable +regiment of body-guards, in pasteboard shakos, and without breeches.</p> + +<p>To go to court, however, Typee and his comrade were fully resolved; and +they were not very scrupulous as to the manner of their introduction. +They made up to a Marquesan gentleman of herculean proportions, whose +office it was to take the princes of the blood an airing in his arms. +Typee, who spoke his language, and had been at his native village, soon +ingratiated himself with Marbonna, who introduced them to one of the +queen's chamberlains. Bribery and corruption now came into play: a plug +of tobacco, proved an excellent passport to within the royal precincts, +but then Marbonna was suddenly called away, and the intruders found +themselves abandoned to their fate amongst the ladies of the court, +amiable and affable damsels, whom a little "soft sawder" induced to +conduct them into the queen's own drawing room. Here were collected +numerous costly articles of European manufacture, sent as presents to +Pomaree. Writing-desks, cut glass and beautiful china, valuable +engravings, and gilt candelabras, arms and instruments of all kinds, lay +scratched and broken, musty and rusting amongst greasy calabashes, old +matting, paddles, fish-spears, and rubbish of all kinds. It was +supper-time; and presently the queen came out of her private boudoir, +attired in a blue silk gown and rich shawls, but without shoes or +stockings. She lay down upon a mat, and fed herself with her fingers. +Presumptuous Long Ghost, unabashed before royalty, was for immediately +introducing himself and friend; but the attendants opposed this forward +proceeding, and, in doing so, made such a fuss that the queen looked up +from her calabash of fish, perceived the strangers, and ordered them +out. Such was the first and last interview between Typee the mariner and +Pomaree the queen.</p> + +<p>"Disappointed in going to court, we determined upon going to sea." The +Leviathan, an American whaler, lay in harbour, and Typee shipped on +board her. Long Ghost would have done the same, but the Yankee captain +disliked the cut of his jib, swore he was a "Sidney bird," and would +have nought to say to him. So Typee divided his advance of wages with +the medical spectre—drank with him a parting bottle of wine, +surreptitiously purchased from a pilfering member of Pomaree's +household—and sailed on a whaling cruise to the coast of Japan. We look +forward with confidence and interest to an account of what there befel +him.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> <i>Omoo; A Narrative of Adventures in the South Seas</i>. By +<span class="smcap">Herman Melville</span>. London: 1847.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_768" id="Page_768">[Pg 768]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="ON_THE_NUTRITIVE_QUALITIES_OF_THE_BREAD_NOW_IN_USE" id="ON_THE_NUTRITIVE_QUALITIES_OF_THE_BREAD_NOW_IN_USE"></a>ON THE NUTRITIVE QUALITIES OF THE BREAD NOW IN USE.</h2> + +<h3>BY PROFESSOR JOHNSTON.</h3> + + +<p>A few plain words on this subject may not be unacceptable to the popular +reader at the present time.</p> + +<p>We are fond of what is agreeable to the eye as well as pleasant to the +taste, and therefore we love to have our bread made of the whitest and +finest of the wheat. Attaching superior excellence to what thus pleases +the eye, we call the good Scotch bannock an inferior food, and the +wholesome black bread of the north of Europe a disgusting article of +diet. When our experience and knowledge are local and confined, our +opinions necessarily partake of a similar character.</p> + +<p>In regard to the different qualities of wheaten flour, our judgments are +not so severe. All things which pertain to this aristocratic grain—this +staff of English life—like the liveries and horses of a great man—are +treated with a certain degree of respect. Still, they are only the +appendages of the noble seed, and the more thoroughly they are got rid +of, the better the kernel is supposed to become.</p> + +<p>In many of our old-fashioned families, indeed, the practice still +lingers of baking bread from the whole meal of wheat for common use in +the kitchen or hall, and for occasional consumption on the master's +table. An enthusiastic physician also now and then rouses himself, and +does battle with the national organs of taste on behalf of the darker +bread, and the browner flour—and dyspeptic old gentlemen or mammas who +have over-pampered their sickly darlings, listen to his fervid warnings, +and the star of the brown loaf is for a month or two in the ascendant.</p> + +<p>But gradually the warning sound is lost to the alarmed ear, and the +pulses of the commoved air waft it on to mingle with the thousand other +long-quenched voices which people the distant realms of space, and form +together that unutterable harmony which, by consent of the poets, is +named the music of the spheres.</p> + +<p>There are times, however, when good men, though aware of this passing +tendency of human efforts, and of the thankless impotency of a struggle +against the public voice—that <i>vox populi</i> which wise men (so-called) +have pronounced to be also <i>vox Dei</i>—will nevertheless return to what +they believe to be a useful though unvalued labour. The present is one +in which any thing which can be said in favour of the less-valued parts +of our imperial grain, will be more readily listened to than at any +other period in the life-time of the existing generation; and being +listened to, may be productive of the greatest national good.</p> + +<p>I propose, therefore, to show, in an intelligible manner, that whole +meal flour is really more nourishing, as well as more wholesome, than +fine white flour as food for man.</p> + +<p>The solid parts of the human body consist, principally, of three several +portions: the fat, the muscle, and the bone. These three substances are +liable to constant waste in the living body, and therefore must be +constantly renewed from the food that we eat. The vegetable food we +consume contains these three substances almost ready formed. The plant +is the brick-maker. The animal voluntarily introduces these bricks into +its stomach, and then involuntarily—through the operation of the +mysterious machinery within—picks out these bricks, transports them to +the different parts of the body, and builds them into their appropriate +places. As the miller at his mill throws into the hopper the unground +grain, and forthwith, by the involuntary movements of the machinery, +receives in his several sacks the fine flour, the seconds, the +middlings, the pollard, and the bran; so in the human body, by a still +more refined separation, the fat is extracted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_769" id="Page_769">[Pg 769]</a></span> and deposited here, the +muscular matter there, and the bony material in a third locality, where +it can not only be stored up, but where its presence is actually at the +moment necessary.</p> + +<p>Again, the fluid parts of the body contain the same substances in a +liquid form, on their way to or from the several parts of the body in +which they are required. They include also a portion of salt or saline +matter which is dissolved in them, as we dissolve common salt in our +soup, or Epsom salts in the pleasant draughts with which our doctors +delight to vex us. This saline matter is also obtained from the food.</p> + +<p>Now, it is self-evident, that that food must be the most nourishing +which supplies all these ingredients of the body most abundantly on the +whole, or in proportions most suited to the actual wants of the +individual animal to which it is given.</p> + +<p>How stands the question, then, in regard to this point between the brown +bread and the white—the fine flour, and the whole meal of wheat?</p> + +<p>The grain of wheat consists of two parts, with which the miller is +familiar—the inner grain and the skin that covers it. The inner grain +gives the pure wheat flour; the skin, when separated, forms the bran. +The miller cannot entirely peel off the skin from his grain, and thus +some of it is unavoidably ground up with his flour. By sifting, he +separates it more or less completely: his seconds, middlings, &c., owing +their colour to the proportion of brown bran that has passed through the +sieve along with the flour. The whole meal, as it is called, of which +the so-named brown <i>household bread</i> is made, consists of the entire +grain ground up together—used as it comes from the mill-stones +unsifted, and therefore containing all the bran.</p> + +<p>The first white flour, therefore, may be said to contain no bran, while +the whole meal contains all that grew naturally upon the grain.</p> + +<p>What is the composition of these two portions of the seed? How much do +they respectively contain of the several constituents of the animal +body? How much of each is contained also in the whole grain?</p> + +<p>1. <i>The fat.</i> Of this ingredient a thousand pounds of the</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Whole grain</td><td align='left'>contain</td><td align='left'>28</td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fine Flour,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>20</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bran,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>60</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>So that the bran is much richer in fat than the interior part of the +grain, and the whole grain ground together (whole meal) richer than the +finer part of the flour in the proportion of nearly one half.</p> + +<p>2. <i>The muscular matter.</i> I have had no opportunity as yet of +ascertaining the relative proportions of this ingredient in the bran and +fine flour of the same sample of grain. Numerous experiments, however, +have been made in my laboratory, to determine these proportions in the +fine flour and whole seed of several varieties of grain. The general +result of these is, that the whole grain uniformly contains a larger +quantity, weight for weight, than the fine flour extracted from it does. +The particular results in the case of wheat and Indian corn were as +follows:—A thousand pounds of the whole grain and of the fine flour +contained of muscular matter respectively,—</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><i>Whole grain.</i></td><td align='left'><i>Fine Flour.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wheat,</td><td align='left'>156 lbs.</td><td align='left'>130 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Indian Corn,</td><td align='left'>140</td><td align='left'>110</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Of the material out of which the animal muscle is to be formed, the +whole meal or grain of wheat contains one-fifth more than the finest +flour does. For maintaining muscular strength, therefore, it must be +more valuable in an equal proportion.</p> + +<p>3. <i>Bone material and Saline matter.</i>—Of these mineral constituents, as +they may be called, of the animal body, a thousand pounds of bran, whole +meal and fine flour, contain respectively,—</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Bran,</td><td align='left'>700</td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Whole meal,</td><td align='left'>170</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fine flour,</td><td align='left'>60</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>So that in regard to this important part of our food, necessary to all +living animals, but especially to the young who are growing, and to the +mother who is giving milk—the whole meal is three times more nourishing +than the fine flour.</p> + +<p>Our case is now made out. Weight for weight, the whole grain or meal is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_770" id="Page_770">[Pg 770]</a></span> +more rich in all these three essential elements of a nutritive food, +than the fine flour of wheat. By those whose only desire is to sustain +their health and strength by the food they eat, ought not the whole meal +to be preferred? To children who are rapidly growing, the browner the +bread they eat, the more abundant the supply of the materials from which +their increasing bones and muscles are to be produced. To the +milk-giving mother, the same food, and for a similar reason, is the most +appropriate.</p> + +<p>A glance at their mutual relations in regard to the three substances, +presented in one view, will show this more clearly. A thousand pounds of +each contain of the three several ingredients the following proportions.</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Whole meal.</td><td align='left'>Fine flour.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Muscular matter,</td><td align='left'>156 lbs.</td><td align='left'>130 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bone material,</td><td align='left'>170 "</td><td align='left'>60 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fat,</td><td align='left'>28 "</td><td align='left'>20 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Total in each,</td><td align='left'>354</td><td align='left'>210</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Taking the three ingredients, therefore, together, the whole meal is +one-half more valuable for fulfilling all the purposes of nutrition than +the fine flour—and especially it is so in regard to the feeding of the +young, the pregnant, and those who undergo much bodily fatigue.</p> + +<p>It will not be denied that it is for a wise purpose that the Deity has +so intimately associated, in the grain, the several substances which are +necessary for the complete nutrition of animal bodies. The above +considerations show how unwise we are in attempting to undo this natural +collocation of materials. To please the eye and the palate, we sift out +a less generally nutritive food,—and, to make up for what we have +removed, experience teaches us to have recourse to animal food of +various descriptions.</p> + +<p>It is interesting to remark, even in apparently trivial things, how all +nature is full of compensating processes. We give our servants household +bread, while we live on the finest of the wheat ourselves. The mistress +eats that which pleases the eye more, the maid what sustains and +nourishes the body better.</p> + +<p>But the whole meal is more wholesome, as well as more nutritive. It is +on account of its superior wholesomeness that those who are experienced +in medicine usually recommend it to our attention. Experience in the +laws of digestion brings us back to the simple admixture found in the +natural seed. It is not an accidental thing that the proportions in +which the ingredients of a truly sustaining food take their places in +the seeds on which we live, should be best fitted at once to promote the +health of the sedentary scholar, and to reinvigorate the strength of the +active man when exhausted by bodily labour.</p> + +<p>Some may say that the preceding observations are merely theoretical; and +may demand the support of actual trial, before they will concede that +the selection of the most nourishing and wholesome diet is hereafter to +be regulated by the results of chemical analysis. The demand is +reasonable in itself, and the so-called deductions of theory are +entitled only to the rank of probable conjectures, till they have been +tested by exact and repeated trials.</p> + +<p>But such in this case have been made; and our theoretical considerations +come in only to confirm the results of previous experiments—to explain +why these results should have been obtained, and to extend and enforce +the practical lessons which the results themselves appeared to +inculcate.</p> + +<p>Thus, from the experiments of Majendie and others, it was known that +animals which in a few weeks died if fed only upon fine flour, lived +long upon whole meal bread. The reason appears from our analytical +investigations. The whole meal contains in large quantity the three +forms of matter by which the several parts of the body are sustained, or +successively renewed. We may feed a man long upon bread and water only, +but unless we wish to kill him also, we must have the apparent cruelty +to restrict him to the coarser kinds of bread. The charity which should +supply him with fine white loaves instead, would in effect kill him by a +lingering starvation.</p> + +<p>Again, the pork-grower who buys bran from the miller, wonders at the +remarkable feeding and fattening effect which this apparently woody and +useless material has upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_771" id="Page_771">[Pg 771]</a></span> his animals. The surprise ceases, however, +and the practice is encouraged, and extended to other creatures, when +the researches of the laboratory explain to him what the food itself +contains, and what his growing animal requires.</p> + +<p>Economy as well as comfort follow from an exact acquaintance with the +wants of our bodies in their several conditions, and with the +composition of the various articles of diet which are at our command. In +the present condition of the country, this economy has become a vital +question. It is a kind of Christian duty in every one to practise it as +far as his means and his knowledge enable him.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the amount of the economy which would follow the use of whole +meal instead of fine flour, may not strike every one who reads the above +observations. The saving arises from two sources.</p> + +<p>First, The amount of husk, separated by the miller from the wheat which +he grinds, and which is not sold for human use, varies very much. I +think we do not over-estimate it, when we consider it as forming +one-eighth of the whole. On this supposition, eight pounds of wheat +yield seven of flour consumed by man, and one of pollard and bran which +are given to animals—chiefly to poultry and pigs. If the whole meal be +used, however, eight pounds of flour will be obtained, or eight people +will be fed by the same weight of grain which only fed seven before.</p> + +<p>Again, we have seen that the whole meal is more nutritious—so that this +coarser flour will go farther than an equal weight of the fine. The +numbers at which we arrived, from the results of analysis, show that, +taking all the three sustaining elements of the food into consideration, +the coarse is one-half more nutritive than the fine. Leaving a wide +margin for the influence of circumstances, let us suppose it only +one-eighth more nutritive, and we shall have now nine people nourished +equally by the same weight of grain, which, when eaten as fine flour, +would support only seven. <i>The wheat of the country</i>, in other words, +<i>would in this form go one-fourth farther than at present</i>.</p> + +<p>But some one may remark, if all this good is to come from the mere use +of the bran, why not recommend it to be withheld from the pigs, and +consume it by man in some way alone? This would involve no change in the +practice of our millers, and little in the habits and bread of the great +mass of the population.</p> + +<p>But such a course, if possible, would not bring us to the economical end +we wish to attain. Suppose it could be made palatable and eaten by man, +little comparative saving would be effected.</p> + +<p>First, because, when eaten alone, the fine flour will not go so far as +when mixed with a certain proportion of bran: that is to say,—a given +weight of fine flour will produce an increased nutritive effect when +mixed with the bran: greater than is due to the constituents of the bran +taken alone. The mixture of the two in reality increases the virtues of +both. Again, if eaten alone, bran would prove too difficult, and +therefore slow of digestion in most stomachs. Much would thus pass, +unexhausted of its nutritive matter, through the alimentary canal, as +whole oats often do through that of horses, and thus a considerable +waste would ensue.</p> + +<p>And further, supposing all to be dissolved in the stomach, there would +still, of necessity, be a waste of material, since the bran actually +contains a larger proportion of bone material and saline matter compared +with its other ingredients, than the body, in its natural healthy state, +can make use of. All this excess must, therefore, be rejected by the +body, and, as nutritive matter, for the time be wasted.</p> + +<p>Lastly, it is doubtful if bran alone contains enough of starch, or of +any substitute for it, to meet the other demands of the human system. I +have not spoken of the use of the starch of the grain in the preceding +observations, because, as both whole meal and fine flour contain a +sufficient quantity of it to supply the wants of the living animal, it +was unnecessary to the main object of this paper. But with bran the case +is different. It is doubtful if the purposes of the starch could be +fully, and with sufficient speed, fulfilled by the ingredients which, in +the bran, take the place of starch in the flour. The cellular fibre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_772" id="Page_772">[Pg 772]</a></span> or +woody matter, of which it contains a considerable proportion, is too +slowly soluble in the stomachs of ordinary men. While, therefore, much +of it would pass through the body undigested, it would require to be +eaten in far larger proportions than its composition indicates, if the +body was to be supported, and thus a further waste would be incurred.</p> + +<p>On the whole, therefore, we come back to the whole meal, as the most +economical as well as the most nutritive and wholesome form in which the +grain of wheat can be consumed. The Deity has done far better for us, by +the natural mixtures to be found in the whole seed, than we can do for +ourselves. The materials, both in form and in proportion, are adjusted +in each seed, as wheat, in a way more suitable to us than any which, +with our present knowledge, we appear able to devise.</p> + +<p>A word to our Scottish readers, before we conclude. We do not recommend +to you even the whole meal of wheat as a substitute for your oatmeal or +your oaten-cake. The oat is more nutritive even than the whole grain of +wheat, taken weight for weight. For the growing boy, for the +hard-working man, and for the portly matron, oatmeal contains the +materials of the most hearty nourishment. This it owes in part to its +peculiar chemical composition, and in part to its being, as it is used +in Scotland, a kind of whole meal. The finely sifted oatmeal of +Yorkshire and Lancashire is not so agreeable to a Scottish taste, and, I +believe, is not so nutritious, as the rounder and coarser meal of the +more northern counties.</p> + +<p>While, therefore, the whole meal of wheat is superior to the fine flour, +in economy, in nutritive power, and in wholesomeness, and therefore +should be preferred by those who <i>must</i> live upon wheat,—in all these +respects the oat has still the advantage, and therefore ought +religiously to be adhered to. You owe it to the experience of your +forefathers, for a thousand years, not to forsake it.</p> + + +<p class="right"><i>Lurham, 19th May, 1847.</i></p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_773" id="Page_773">[Pg 773]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="INDEX_TO_VOL_LXI" id="INDEX_TO_VOL_LXI"></a>INDEX TO VOL. LXI.</h2> + + +<p> +Abdul Medjid, the Sultan, <a href='#Page_693'>693</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Adalia, sketches of, <a href='#Page_737'>737</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Addington, Henry, see <i>Sidmouth</i>.<br /> +<br /> +Addington, Hiley, 475.<br /> +<br /> +Adelaide, Madame, 2, 7, 8, 12.<br /> +<br /> +Adventures of the Connaught Rangers, review of, 457.<br /> +<br /> +Aidan, Bishop, 84.<br /> +<br /> +Albemarle, Lord, 201.<br /> +<br /> +Albert, Madame, 186.<br /> +<br /> +Ambrosio, General, 174.<br /> +<br /> +America, origin of the struggle with, 207.<br /> +<br /> +America, how they manage matters in, 492.<br /> +<br /> +America, North, <a href='#Page_653'>653</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ancient and Modern Ballad Poetry, 622.<br /> +<br /> +Anglo-Saxons, Lappenberg's History of the, reviewed, 79.<br /> +<br /> +Angouleme, the Duc d', 5, 6.<br /> +<br /> +Appert, B. Dix ans à la Cour du Roi Louis Philippe, review of, 1.<br /> +<br /> +Aquilius, Letter from, to Eusebius, 374<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—second, 501</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—third, <a href='#Page_695'>695</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Arabs in Batavia, the, 321.<br /> +<br /> +Archangel, New, settlement of, <a href='#Page_661'>661</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Armenians of Smyrna, the, 238.<br /> +<br /> +Arnal, a French actor, 185.<br /> +<br /> +Arnault, M., 15.<br /> +<br /> +Arthur, King, 81.<br /> +<br /> +Assessed Taxes, inequalities of, 248.<br /> +<br /> +Aumale, Duc d', 17.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Badajos, capture of, 468.<br /> +<br /> +Ballad Poetry, ancient and modern, 622.<br /> +<br /> +Balzac, M. de, 16, works of, 591.<br /> +<br /> +Banditti of Spain, the, 356.<br /> +<br /> +Batavia, city of, 320.<br /> +<br /> +Baths of Mont Dor, the, 448<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the company at, 451</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the forest, 454.</span><br /> +<br /> +Belgrade, siege and battle of, 36.<br /> +<br /> +Belisarius,—was he blind? 606.<br /> +<br /> +Benedict Biscop, 87.<br /> +<br /> +Bernard, Charles de, notices of the works of, 589.<br /> +<br /> +Berri, Duchesse de, 530.<br /> +<br /> +Blackwall, ode to, 59.<br /> +<br /> +Blucher, sketches of, 76.<br /> +<br /> +Bolingbroke, Lord, 204.<br /> +<br /> +Bonabat, village of, 241.<br /> +<br /> +Bouffé, Marie, 189.<br /> +<br /> +Boufflers, Marshal, 35, 36.<br /> +<br /> +Boujah, village of, 241.<br /> +<br /> +Bread, on the nutritive qualities of, by Professor Johnston, <a href='#Page_768'>768</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, sonnets by:<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Life, 555</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Love, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Heaven and Earth, 556</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Prospect, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Two Sketches, <a href='#Page_683'>683</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Mountaineer and the Poet, <a href='#Page_684'>684</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Poet, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<br /> +Brunet, an actor, 187.<br /> +<br /> +Bruhl, Count, 209.<br /> +<br /> +Bunzelwitz, camp and battle of, 43.<br /> +<br /> +Buonaparte, Joseph, as King of Naples, 168.<br /> +<br /> +Burgos, the retreat from, 471.<br /> +<br /> +Burke, notices of, 483, 484, 487.<br /> +<br /> +Busaco, battle of, 460.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Canning, Peel's conduct towards, 97.<br /> +<br /> +California, sketches of, <a href='#Page_662'>662</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Caravan Bridge of Smyrna, the, 239.<br /> +<br /> +Carbonari of Naples, the, 173.<br /> +<br /> +Cardinal's voyage, the, 430.<br /> +<br /> +Carlyle's Cromwell, review of, 392.<br /> +<br /> +Caroline, Queen of Naples, 164, 167.<br /> +<br /> +Catherine of Russia, intimacy of, with Voltaire, 537.<br /> +<br /> +Catholic question, Peel's conduct on the, 97.<br /> +<br /> +Catullus, translations from, No. I., 374<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—No. II., 501</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—No. III., <a href='#Page_695'>695</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Cave of the Regicides, the, and how three of them fared in New England, 333.<br /> +<br /> +Championet, General, capture of Naples by, 163.<br /> +<br /> +Chapelle, an actor, 185.<br /> +<br /> +Charles X., accession of, 6.<br /> +<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_774" id="Page_774">[Pg 774]</a></span>Charles de Bernard, works of, 589.<br /> +<br /> +Chateauroux, the Duchess of, 206, 530.<br /> +<br /> +Chatham, Lord, 474, 475.<br /> +<br /> +Cheri, Rose, 191.<br /> +<br /> +Chesterfield, Lord, character of, by Walpole, 198.<br /> +<br /> +Chinese in Batavia, the, 321.<br /> +<br /> +Church rate, inequality of the, 250.<br /> +<br /> +Ciudad Rodrigo, capture of, 467.<br /> +<br /> +Claqueurs of Paris, the, 183.<br /> +<br /> +Collier's book of Roxburghe ballads, review of, 622.<br /> +<br /> +Connaught Rangers, sketches of the, 457.<br /> +<br /> +Constantine Kanaris, epitaph of, 644.<br /> +<br /> +Constantinople, and the declining state of the Ottoman empire, <a href='#Page_685'>685</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Corn law, Peel's conduct regarding the, 99.<br /> +<br /> +Court of Louis Philippe, sketches of the, 1.<br /> +<br /> +Cromwell, Carlyle's life of, reviewed, 392.<br /> +<br /> +Cunnersdorf, battle of, 42.<br /> +<br /> +Cunningham's poems and songs, review of, 622.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Dardanelles, the, <a href='#Page_686'>686</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Daun, Marshal, 40, 42.<br /> +<br /> +Dejazet the actress, 189.<br /> +<br /> +Delta, Scottish Melodies by:<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Eric's Dirge, 91</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Stormy Sea, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Maid of Ulva, 645</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Lament for Macrimmon, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<br /> +Direct Taxation, on, 243<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—true principles of, 258.</span><br /> +<br /> +Divining Rod, the, 368.<br /> +<br /> +Dixwell, John, the Regicide, 338.<br /> +<br /> +Doche, Madame, 187.<br /> +<br /> +Doddington, Bubb, 201, 202, 210.<br /> +<br /> +Doré, a French robber, sketches of, 4.<br /> +<br /> +Dubois, the Abbé, 530.<br /> +<br /> +Duckworth, Sir John, forcing of the Dardanelles by, <a href='#Page_686'>686</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Dumas, General, 168.<br /> +<br /> +Dumas, M. de, and his works, 16, 590, 591.<br /> +<br /> +Durham, Lord, 15, 16.<br /> +<br /> +Dutch, cruelties of the, in Java, 327.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Early Taken, the, 230.<br /> +<br /> +Egmont, Lord, 197.<br /> +<br /> +Ekaterineburg, town of, <a href='#Page_671'>671</a>.<br /> +<br /> +England, uniform triumphs of, over France, 48.<br /> +<br /> +Epigrams, 361.<br /> +<br /> +Epitaphs, 57, 61.<br /> +<br /> +Epitaph of Constantine Kanaris, the, 644.<br /> +<br /> +Eric's dirge, by Delta, 91.<br /> +<br /> +Erith, village of, 423.<br /> +<br /> +Erskine, Lord, 488.<br /> +<br /> +Eugene, Marlborough, Frederick, Napoleon, and Wellington, 34.<br /> +<br /> +Eusebius, letters to—Horæ Catullianæ, 374, 501, <a href='#Page_695'>695</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Famine, lessons from the, 515.<br /> +<br /> +Ferdinand, king of Naples, 163, 164, 167.<br /> +<br /> +Ferguson of Pitfour, anecdotes of, 488.<br /> +<br /> +Fighting Eighty-eighth, the, 457.<br /> +<br /> +Flour, on the various kinds of, and their nutritive qualities, <a href='#Page_768'>768</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fontenoy, battle of, 535.<br /> +<br /> +Ford's gatherings from Spain, review of, 350.<br /> +<br /> +Fossa del Maritimo, prison of, 167.<br /> +<br /> +Fox, anecdotes of, 488.<br /> +<br /> +France, the modern court of, 1.<br /> +<br /> +France, uniform triumphs of England over, 48.<br /> +<br /> +France, Walpole's picture of, 206.<br /> +<br /> +France, letter on, 547.<br /> +<br /> +Frederick the Great, sketch of the career of, and comparison of him with Marlborough and others, 37<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—his intimacy with Voltaire, 537.</span><br /> +<br /> +Frederick, prince of Wales, death of, and his character, 200.<br /> +<br /> +Free trade in connexion with taxation, 243.<br /> +<br /> +French players and playhouses, 177.<br /> +<br /> +Fuentes d' Onore, battle of, 462.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Galata, sketches of, <a href='#Page_688'>688</a>.<br /> +<br /> +General Mack: a Christmas carol, 92.<br /> +<br /> +George II., Walpole's reign of, reviewed, 194.<br /> +<br /> +George III., anecdotes of, 490.<br /> +<br /> +Georges, characteristics of the reigns of the, 211.<br /> +<br /> +Ghosts, letters on, 440, 541.<br /> +<br /> +Gneisenau, General, 77.<br /> +<br /> +Goffe the Regicide, 333.<br /> +<br /> +Gold district of Siberia, the, <a href='#Page_671'>671</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Grand Opera at Paris, the, 180, 182.<br /> +<br /> +Grattan's Adventures of the Connaught Rangers, review of, 457.<br /> +<br /> +Greeks of Adalia, the, <a href='#Page_750'>750</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Grey, Lord, first appearance of, 479.<br /> +<br /> +Guilleminot, Count, 6.<br /> +<br /> +Gutch's Robin Hood, review of, 622.<br /> +<br /> +Gymnase Dramatique at Paris, the, 190.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Hastings, Warren, trial of, 478, 487.<br /> +<br /> +Heaven and Earth, a Sonnet, 556.<br /> +<br /> +Heptarchy, the, 79.<br /> +<br /> +Hervey's Theatres of Paris, review of, 177.<br /> +<br /> +Highway Rates, inequalities of, 249.<br /> +<br /> +Hohenfriedberg, battle of, 39.<br /> +<br /> +Hohenkirchen, battle of, 42.<br /> +<br /> +Horæ Catullianæ, No. I., 374<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—No. II., 501</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—No. III., <a href='#Page_695'>695</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Horn, Count de, execution of, 534.<br /> +<br /> +How they manage matters in the model republic, 492.<br /> +<br /> +How to build a house and live in it,—No. III., <a href='#Page_727'>727</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hughes' Overland Journey to Lisbon, review of, 350.<br /> +<br /> +Hymn of King Olaf the Saint, the, altered from the Icelandic, <a href='#Page_682'>682</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Imeeo, residence on island of, <a href='#Page_763'>763</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Income Tax, inequalities of the, 253.<br /> +<br /> +Indian Life, anecdotes of, <a href='#Page_658'>658</a>, <a href='#Page_659'>659</a>, <a href='#Page_660'>660</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Indirect Taxes, probable abandonment of, in Great Britain, 244, 245.<br /> +<br /> +Ireland, state of, under George II., 205<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—necessity of Poor Law for, 247</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—unjust exemption from taxation enjoyed by, 256.</span><br /> +<br /> +Isle of Dogs, the, 50<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_775" id="Page_775">[Pg 775]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">—tradition regarding, 52.</span><br /> +<br /> +Italian History, modern, 162.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Java, sketches of, 318.<br /> +<br /> +Joinville, Prince de, 17.<br /> +<br /> +Johnston, Professor, on the nutritive qualities of the Bread now in use, <a href='#Page_768'>768</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Jones, Neville, 205.<br /> +<br /> +Jutland 130 years since, from the Danish<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—I., the Deer Rider, 286</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—II., Ansbjerg, 289</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—III., the Nisse, 292</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—IV., the Elopement, 297</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—V., the Horse Garden, 303.</span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Kawashes of Turkey, the, 235.<br /> +<br /> +Khan of Magnesia, the, 309.<br /> +<br /> +Khans of Turkey, the, 236.<br /> +<br /> +Kiachta, town of, 670.<br /> +<br /> +Kolin, battle of, 41.<br /> +<br /> +Krasnoyayk, town of, 671.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Lafayette, sketches of, 5.<br /> +<br /> +Lament for Macrimmon, by Delta, 645.<br /> +<br /> +Land, injustice of the freedom of, from legacy duty, 246.<br /> +<br /> +Land Tax, injustice of the, 248.<br /> +<br /> +Landsheck, battle of, 42.<br /> +<br /> +Lappenberg's Anglo-Saxons, review of, 79.<br /> +<br /> +Latest from the Peninsula, 350.<br /> +<br /> +Law of Lauriston, 533, 534.<br /> +<br /> +Lays and Legends of the Thames, No. II., 49<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Isle of Dogs, 50</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Song of the Mail Coachman, 51</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Presentation, 55</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Epitaphs, 57, 61</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Ode to Blackwall, 59</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Poet's Auction, 62</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—No. III., 423</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Vision, 424</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Arsenal, 426</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—True Love, 428</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Cardinals' voyage, 430.</span><br /> +<br /> +Legacy duty, inequality of the, 246.<br /> +<br /> +Lemaitre, the Marquis, 166.<br /> +<br /> +Lemaitre, Frederick, 188.<br /> +<br /> +Lena, the river, <a href='#Page_669'>669</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Lessons from the Famine, 515.<br /> +<br /> +Letters on the Truths contained in Popular Superstitions,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—No. I., the Divining Rod, 368</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—II., Vampyrism, 432</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—III., Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, 440</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—IV., Real Ghosts and Second Sight, 541</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—V., Trance and Sleep-waking, 547</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—VI., Religious Delusions, the Possessed, Witchcraft, <a href='#Page_673'>673</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Lettres de Cachet, profligate use of, in France, 538.<br /> +<br /> +Levasseur the actor, 192.<br /> +<br /> +Leuthen, battle of, 41.<br /> +<br /> +Life, a sonnet, 555.<br /> +<br /> +Lord Sidmouth's Life and Times, 473.<br /> +<br /> +Louis XV., sketches of, by Walpole, 206.<br /> +<br /> +Louis XV., De Tocqueville's Memoirs of, reviewed, 525.<br /> +<br /> +Louis Philippe, sketches of the court of, 1<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—his elevation, 8</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—and personal habits, 9.</span><br /> +<br /> +Love, a sonnet, 555.<br /> +<br /> +Lowositz, battle of, 40.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Macdonald, General, administration of Naples by, 164.<br /> +<br /> +Mack, General, a Christmas carol, 92.<br /> +<br /> +Mack, General, at Naples, 163.<br /> +<br /> +Magnesia, a ride to, stage first, 231<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—II. 305.</span><br /> +<br /> +Mahmood, the Sultan, <a href='#Page_694'>694</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Maid of Ulva, the, by Delta, 645.<br /> +<br /> +Maida, battle of, 168.<br /> +<br /> +Mail Coachman, song of the, 51.<br /> +<br /> +Maison Dorée at Paris, the, 177.<br /> +<br /> +Mammone, a Neapolitan bandit, 164.<br /> +<br /> +Mammoth deposits of Siberia, the, <a href='#Page_670'>670</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Maria Theresa, accession of, and war against, 38.<br /> +<br /> +Marie Amelie, Queen of Louis Philippe, 7, 8, 11.<br /> +<br /> +Marlborough, comparison of, with Eugene, &c., 34.<br /> +<br /> +Marriage Bill, the Scotch, 646.<br /> +<br /> +Marsin, Marshal, 35.<br /> +<br /> +Massillon, 532.<br /> +<br /> +Mazarine, Cardinal, French Opera originated by, 180.<br /> +<br /> +Melville's Omoo, review of, <a href='#Page_754'>754</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mérimée, Prosper, notices of the works of, <a href='#Page_695'>695</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Merkatz, Lieutenant, 67, 68.<br /> +<br /> +Mexican War, the, <a href='#Page_667'>667</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mildred, a tale, Chap. IV., 18<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Chap. V., 23</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Chap. VI., 28</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Chap. VII., 213</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Chap. VIII., 217</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Chap. IX., 222.</span><br /> +<br /> +Minden, battle of, 42.<br /> +<br /> +Minerals of Lake Superior, the, <a href='#Page_658'>658</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mississippi Scheme, the, 533.<br /> +<br /> +Modern Italian History, 162.<br /> +<br /> +Mollwitz, battle of, 38.<br /> +<br /> +Mont Dor, baths of, 448.<br /> +<br /> +Montebello, Duchess of, 5.<br /> +<br /> +Monterey, town of, <a href='#Page_664'>664</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Montreal, town of, <a href='#Page_655'>655</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Motherwell's Poems, review of, 622.<br /> +<br /> +Mountaineer and Poet, the, a sonnet, <a href='#Page_684'>684</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Muleteers of Spain, the, 352, 354.<br /> +<br /> +Murat, sketches of, 166, 167<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—as King of Naples, 170</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—death of, 175, 176.</span><br /> +<br /> +Murray, a Jacobite, sketches of, 196.<br /> +<br /> +Music, Turkish, <a href='#Page_749'>749</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mytilene, Island of, <a href='#Page_736'>736</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Naples, sketch of the recent history of, 162.<br /> +<br /> +Napoleon, comparison of Frederick the Great with, 34, 45.<br /> +<br /> +Nashua, town of, <a href='#Page_654'>654</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Nemours, the Duc de, 17.<br /> +<br /> +New Archangel, settlement of, <a href='#Page_661'>661</a>.<br /> +<br /> +New Sentimental Journey, a<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Baths of Mont Dor, 448</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Company, 451</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Forest, 454.</span><br /> +<br /> +Newcastle, the Duke of, character of, by Walpole, 202.<br /> +<br /> +New England, Residence of three of the Regicides in, 333.<br /> +<br /> +Newhaven, grave of the Regicides at, 334.<br /> +<br /> +North America, Siberia, and Russia, <a href='#Page_653'>653</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Nugent, Lord, Walpole's character of, 197.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Oatmeal, superiority of, to wheat, <a href='#Page_772'>772</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ochotsk, town of, <a href='#Page_668'>668</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_776" id="Page_776">[Pg 776]</a></span>Oglou, Pasha, 235.<br /> +<br /> +Olaf the Saint, the Hymn of, altered from the Icelandic, <a href='#Page_682'>682</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Omoo, review of, <a href='#Page_754'>754</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Orleans, Dowager Duchess of, Anecdote of, 11.<br /> +<br /> +Orleans, the Regent, 530.<br /> +<br /> +Opera Comique at Paris, the, 180.<br /> +<br /> +Oswald, Prince, 84.<br /> +<br /> +Ottoman Empire, present state of the, <a href='#Page_685'>685</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Overland Journey round the Globe, Simpson's, review of, <a href='#Page_653'>653</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Pacific Rovings, <a href='#Page_754'>754</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pano di Grajo, a Neapolitan leader, 165, 169.<br /> +<br /> +Palais Royal, the, 191.<br /> +<br /> +Paris, Sketches of Society in, 13.<br /> +<br /> +Passaruang, town of, 332.<br /> +<br /> +Pauperism and its treatment, 261.<br /> +<br /> +Peel, Sir Robert, reflections on the career of, 93.<br /> +<br /> +Pelham, Lord, 204, 206.<br /> +<br /> +Pellew's Life of Sidmouth, review of, 473.<br /> +<br /> +Peninsula, latest from the, 350.<br /> +<br /> +Pépé, General, review of the memoirs of, 162.<br /> +<br /> +Pépé, Florestano, 172.<br /> +<br /> +Personal character, importance of, to a statesman, 93.<br /> +<br /> +Peterwardin, battle of, 36.<br /> +<br /> +Picton and the Connaught Rangers, 457.<br /> +<br /> +Pitt, first appearance of, 476<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—notices of, 483, 484.</span><br /> +<br /> +Poacher, the, or Jutland 130 years since, from the Danish.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—I. The Deer Rider, 286.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—II. Ansbjerg, 289.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—III. The Nisse, 292.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—IV. The Elopement, 297.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—V. The Horse Garden, 303.</span><br /> +<br /> +Poet, the, a Sonnet, <a href='#Page_684'>684</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Poet's Auction, the, 62.<br /> +<br /> +Poetry<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Eric's Dirge, by Delta, 91</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Stormy Sea, by the same, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—General Mack, 92</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—the Early Taken, 230</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—To the Stethoscope, 361</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Epigrams, 367</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Four Sonnets, namely, Life, Love, Heaven and Earth, the Prospect, by E. B. Browning, 555</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Epitaph of Constantine Kanaris, 644</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Maid of Ulva, by Delta, 645</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Lament of Macrimmon, by the same, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Hymn of King Olaf the Saint, <a href='#Page_682'>682</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Four Sonnets, by Elizabeth B. Browning, <a href='#Page_683'>683</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Police Rates, inequalities of, 250.<br /> +<br /> +Polynesia, sketches of, <a href='#Page_754'>754</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pomaree, Queen, <a href='#Page_761'>761</a>, <a href='#Page_766'>766</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pompadour, Madame de, 206.<br /> +<br /> +Poor, treatment of the, 262.<br /> +<br /> +Poors'-rate, inequality of the, 247.<br /> +<br /> +Popular Superstitions, Letters on the truths contained in, No. I. The Divining<br /> +Rod, 368<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—II. Vampyrism, 432</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—III. Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, 440</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—IV. Real Ghosts and Second-sight, 541</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—V. Trance and Sleep-waking, 547</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—VI. Religious Delusions: the Possessed: Witchcraft, <a href='#Page_673'>673</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Portuguese troops, character of the, 464.<br /> +<br /> +Possession, Demoniacal, letter on, <a href='#Page_673'>673</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Premier, reflections: suggested by the career of the late, 93.<br /> +<br /> +Prospect, the, a Sonnet, 556.<br /> +<br /> +Prosper Mérimée, notices of the works of, <a href='#Page_695'>695</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Prussian Military Memoirs, 65.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Rahden, Baron von, wanderings of an old soldier, reviewed, 65.<br /> +<br /> +Railways in Spain, 352.<br /> +<br /> +Raval the Actor, 193.<br /> +<br /> +Red River Settlement, the, <a href='#Page_659'>659</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Reflections suggested by the career of the late Premier, 93.<br /> +<br /> +Regicides, cave of the, and how three of them fared in New England, 333.<br /> +<br /> +Regnier, defeat of, at Maida, 168.<br /> +<br /> +Reichenbach, Count, 68.<br /> +<br /> +Reign of George II., the, 194.<br /> +<br /> +Religious Delusions, letter on, <a href='#Page_673'>673</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ride to Magnesia, a<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—stage I. 231</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—II. 305.</span><br /> +<br /> +Robinson, Sir Thomas, 209.<br /> +<br /> +Rosama, a tale of Madrid, 557.<br /> +<br /> +Rosbach, battle of, 41.<br /> +<br /> +Royal Arsenal, the, 426.<br /> +<br /> +Ruffo, Cardinal, 164.<br /> +<br /> +Russia, sketches of, <a href='#Page_668'>668</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Salamanca, battle of, 470.<br /> +<br /> +Samson, the executioner of Paris, 15.<br /> +<br /> +Sanchez, Julian, a Spanish Guerilla leader, 463.<br /> +<br /> +San Francisco, harbour of, <a href='#Page_662'>662</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Santa Barbara, town of, <a href='#Page_665'>665</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Saxe, Marshal, 535.<br /> +<br /> +Saxony, conquest of, by Frederick the Great, 40.<br /> +<br /> +Scio, Island of, <a href='#Page_748'>748</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Scotch Marriage Bill, the, 646.<br /> +<br /> +Scotland, new poor law for, 247.<br /> +<br /> +Scottish Melodies, by Delta, Eric's Dirge, 91<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Stormy Sea, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—The Maid of Ulva, 645</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Lament for Macrimmon, <i>ib.</i></span><br /> +<br /> +Secker, Archbishop, character of, 198.<br /> +<br /> +Second-sight, letter on, 541.<br /> +<br /> +Selberg's Java, review of, 318.<br /> +<br /> +Sentimental Journey, a, see <i>New</i>.<br /> +<br /> +Sheldon's Border Minstrelsy, review of, 622.<br /> +<br /> +Sheridan, speech of, on the Begum question, 478<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—notices of, 488.</span><br /> +<br /> +Siberia, sketches of, <a href='#Page_668'>668</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sidmouth, Lord, life and times of, 473.<br /> +<br /> +Simpson's Overland Journey Round the World, review of, <a href='#Page_653'>653</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sitka, Settlement of, <a href='#Page_661'>661</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sleep-waking, letter on, 547.<br /> +<br /> +Smith, John William, memoir of, by Samuel Warren, 129.<br /> +<br /> +Smyrna, city of, 231, 233, <a href='#Page_735'>735</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Soor, battle of, 39.<br /> +<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_777" id="Page_777">[Pg 777]</a></span>Spain, sketches of modern, 350.<br /> +<br /> +Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, letter on, 440.<br /> +<br /> +Stamboul, sketches of, <a href='#Page_689'>689</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Stamp Duties, inequalities of, 250.<br /> +<br /> +Stethoscope, to the, 361.<br /> +<br /> +Stewart, Sir John, 169.<br /> +<br /> +Storming of the Redoubt, the, <a href='#Page_724'>724</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Stormy Sea, the, by Delta, 91.<br /> +<br /> +Sue, Engene, 591.<br /> +<br /> +Superior, Lake, the minerals of, <a href='#Page_658'>658</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Surabaya, town of, 324.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Tahiti, sketches of, <a href='#Page_758'>758</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Taxation, direct, 243,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">true principles of, 258.</span><br /> +<br /> +Thames, Lays and Legends of the, <i>see</i> Lays.<br /> +<br /> +Theatres of Paris, the, 177.<br /> +<br /> +Theatre des Variétés, the, 187.<br /> +<br /> +Thill, Colonel, 77.<br /> +<br /> +Thorpe's translation of Lappenberg's Anglo-Saxons, review of, 79, 80.<br /> +<br /> +Tiger Hunting in Java, 326.<br /> +<br /> +Tocqueville's History of the reign of Louis XV., review of, 525.<br /> +<br /> +Torgau, battle of, 43.<br /> +<br /> +Treatment of Pauperism, on the, 261.<br /> +<br /> +True Love, 428.<br /> +<br /> +Turin, battle of, 35.<br /> +<br /> +Turkey, present state of, <a href='#Page_685'>685</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Turkish Manners, sketches of, 231.<br /> +<br /> +Turkish Watering Place, a, <a href='#Page_735'>735</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Turning Dervishes, the, <a href='#Page_689'>689</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Two Sketches, by E. B. Browning, <a href='#Page_683'>683</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +United States, war of the, with Mexico, <a href='#Page_667'>667</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ural mountains, mines of the, <a href='#Page_671'>671</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Vallego, General, <a href='#Page_663'>663</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Valona, town of, 231.<br /> +<br /> +Vampyrism, letter on, 432.<br /> +<br /> +Vaudeville at Paris, the, 184, 185.<br /> +<br /> +Vestris, the Dancer, 181.<br /> +<br /> +Vidocq, the Thief-taker, 15.<br /> +<br /> +Villeroi, Marshal, 35.<br /> +<br /> +Visible and Tangible, the, a metaphysical fragment, 580.<br /> +<br /> +Vision, the, 424.<br /> +<br /> +Voltaire, sketches of, 536, 537.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Walpole's reign of George II., review of, 194.<br /> +<br /> +Walpole, Sir Robert, notices of, 197, 203, 204.<br /> +<br /> +Warren, Samuel, memoir of the late John William Smith by, 129.<br /> +<br /> +Watermen of London, the, 262.<br /> +<br /> +Wellington, comparison of Marlborough with, 34<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">—Sketches of, by Von Rahden, 75, 76.</span><br /> +<br /> +Whalley the Regicide, 333.<br /> +<br /> +Wheat, on the nutritive qualities of, and the various kinds of flour from it, <a href='#Page_768'>768</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wilberforce, anecdotes of, 480.<br /> +<br /> +Wilfrith, Bishop, 88.<br /> +<br /> +Witchcraft, letter on, <a href='#Page_673'>673</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Yakutsh, province of, <a href='#Page_669'>669</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Yonge, Sir William, 191.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Zenta, battle of, 35.<br /> +<br /> +Zorndorf, battle of, 42.<br /> +<br /> +Zulares, valley of, <a href='#Page_666'>666</a>.<br /> +</p> + + +<p>END OF VOL. LXI.</p> + + +<p><i>Printed by William Blackwood and Sons, Edinburgh.</i></p> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume +61, No. 380, June, 1847, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, MAY, 1847 *** + +***** This file should be named 26484-h.htm or 26484-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/4/8/26484/ + +Produced by Brendan OConnor, Jonathan Ingram, Josephine +Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. 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mode 100644 index 0000000..8df84ea --- /dev/null +++ b/26484-page-images/p0775.png diff --git a/26484-page-images/p0776.png b/26484-page-images/p0776.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f64602 --- /dev/null +++ b/26484-page-images/p0776.png diff --git a/26484-page-images/p0777.png b/26484-page-images/p0777.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f21268a --- /dev/null +++ b/26484-page-images/p0777.png diff --git a/26484.txt b/26484.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..932fa15 --- /dev/null +++ b/26484.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9365 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 61, +No. 380, June, 1847, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 61, No. 380, June, 1847 + +Author: Various + +Release Date: August 29, 2008 [EBook #26484] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, MAY, 1847 *** + + + + +Produced by Brendan OConnor, Jonathan Ingram, Josephine +Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Library of Early +Journals.) + + + + + + + + + +BLACKWOOD'S + +EDINBURGH MAGAZINE. + +No. CCCLXXX. JUNE, 1847. Vol. LXI. + + + + +NORTH AMERICA, SIBERIA, AND RUSSIA.[A] + + +The circumnavigation of the world is now a matter of ordinary occurrence +to our bold mariners: and after a few years it will be a sort of summer +excursion to our steamers. We shall have the requisitions of the +Travellers' Club more stringent as the sphere of action grows wider; and +no man will be eligible who has not paid a visit to Pekin, or sunned +himself in Siam. + +But a circuit of the globe on _terra firma_ is, we believe, new. Sir +George Simpson will have no competitor, that we have ever heard, to +claim from him the honour of having first galloped right a-head--from +the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Pacific to the British +Channel. One or two slight divergencies of some thousand miles down the +smooth and sunny bosom of the Pacific, are to be reckoned as mere +episodes: but Sir George soon recovers his course, plunges in through +the regions of the polar star; defies time, trouble, and Tartary; +marches in the track of tribes, of which all but the names have expired; +follows the glories of conquerors, whose bones have mingled five hundred +years ago with the dust of the desert; gives a flying glance on one side +towards the Wall of China, and on the other towards the Arctic Circle; +still presses on, till he reaches the confines of the frozen +civilisation of the Russian empire; and sweeps along, among bowing +governors and prostrate serfs,--still but emerging from barbarism--until +he does homage to the pomp of the Russian court, and finally lands in +the soil of freedom, funds, and the income tax. + +What the actual object of all this gyration may have been, is not +revealed, nor, probably, _revealable_ by a "Governor of the Hudson's Bay +territories," who, having the fear of _other_ governors before his eyes, +dedicates his two handsome volumes to "The Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company;" but the late negotiations on Oregon, the Russian interest in +the new empire rising on the shore of the Northern Pacific, the vigorous +efforts of Russia to turn its Siberian world into a place of human +habitancy, and the unexpected interest directed to those regions by the +discovery of gold deposits which throw the old wealth of the Spanish +main into the shade, _might_ be sufficient motives for the curiosity of +an individual of intelligence, and for the anxious inquiries of a great +company, bordering on two mighty powers in North America, both of them +more remarkable for the vigour of their ambition than for the reverence +of their hunters and fishers for the _jus gentium_. + +Those volumes, then, will supply a general and a very well conceived +estimate of immense tracts of the globe, hitherto but little known to +the English public. The view is clear, quick, and discriminative. The +countries of which it gives us a new knowledge are probably destined to +act with great power on our interests, some as the rivals of our +commerce, some as the depots of our manufactures, and some as the +recipients of that overflow of population which Europe is now pouring +out from all her fields on the open wilderness of the world. + +This spread of emigration to the north is a curious instance of the +reflux of the human tide; for, from the north evidently was Europe +originally peopled. Japhet was a powerful propeller; and often as he has +dwelt in the tents of Shem, he is likely to overwhelm the whole +territory of the southern brother once more. The Turk, the Egyptian, the +man of Asia Minor, the man of Thrace, will yet be but tribes in that +army of the new Xerxes which, pouring from Moscow, and impelled from St +Petersburg, will renew the invasions of Genghiz and Tamerlane, and try +the civilized strength of the west against the wild courage and +countless multitudes of Tartary. Into this strange, but important, and +prospectively powerful country, we now follow the traveller. Embarking +from Liverpool in the Caledonia, a vessel of 1300 tons and 450 horse +power, he was amply prepared to face the perils of the most stormy of +all oceans, the Atlantic. The run across lad the usual fortunes of all +voyages, and within a week after their departure from _terra firma_ they +saw a whale, who saw them with rather more indifference, for he lay +lounging on the surface until the steamer had nearly run over him. At +last he dived down, and was seen no more. Next day, while there was so +little wind, that all their light canvass was set, they saw the +phenomenon of a ship under close-reefed topsails. This apparent timidity +was laughed at by some of the passengers, but the more experienced +guessed that the vessel had come out of a gale, of which they were +likely to have a share before long, a conjecture which was soon +verified. + +On the morning of the 9th day, the captain, discovering that the +barometer had fallen between two and three inches during the night, due +preparations were of course made to meet the storm. It came on in the +afternoon, a hurricane. Then followed the usual havock of boats and +canvass, the surges making a clean breach over the deck; the passengers, +of course, gave themselves up for lost, and even the crew are said to +have been pretty nearly of the same opinion. However, the wind went down +at last, the sea grew comparatively smooth, and in twenty-four hours +more, they found themselves on the banks of Newfoundland. The writer +thinks that it was fortunate for them that the storm had not caught them +in the short swell of these shallow waters, as was probably the case of +the President, whose melancholy fate so long excited, and still excites +a feeling of surprise and sorrow in the public mind. + +It was lost in this very storm. Next day came another of the sea +wonders. The cry of land started them all from the dinner table; but the +land happened to be an immense field of ice, which, with the +inequalities of its surface and the effect of refraction, presented some +appearance of a wooded country. On that night the cry of "Light a-head," +while they were still several hundred miles from land, excited new +astonishment. "All the knowing ones" clearly distinguished a magnificent +revolver. The paddles were accordingly stopped to have a cast of the +lead, but in another half hour it was ascertained that the revolver was +a newly risen star. + +At length land was really seen, and after a run of fourteen days, they +cast anchor in the harbour of Halifax. But as Boston was their true +destination they steered for it at once. Their progress had been rapid, +for they entered Boston Bay in thirty-six hours from Halifax, a distance +of 390 miles. Boston is more English looking than New York. The gently +undulating shores of the bay, highly cultivated, bring to memory the +green hills of England, and within the town the buildings and the +inhabitants have a peculiarly English air. + +As speed was an object, the party immediately left the town by the +railway, passing through Lowell and reaching Nashua. This is one of the +rapid growths of America. In 1819 this place was a village of but +nineteen houses. It now contains 19,000 inhabitants, with churches, +hotels, prisons, and banks. Here the party went off in two detachments, +one in a sleigh with six horses, and the other rattled along in a +coach-and-four. At the next stage the author exchanged the coach for a +sleigh, a matter of no great importance to the world, but which may be +mentioned as a caution against rash changes. For the first few miles the +new conveyance went on merrily, and the passengers congratulated +themselves on their wisdom. We must now let him speak for himself. + +"The sun, as the day advanced, kept thawing the snow, till at last, on +coming to a deep drift, we were repeatedly obliged to get out, sometimes +walking up to the knees, and sometimes helping to lift the vehicle out +of the snow. However, at length we fairly stuck fast, in spite of all +our hauling and pushing. The horses struggled and plunged to no purpose, +excepting that the leaders, after breaking part of their tackle, +galloped off over the hills and far away, leaving us to kick our heels +in the slush, till they were brought back after a chase of several +miles." + +The road now passed through Vermont, the state of green mountains. The +country appeared striking; and Montpelier, where they breakfasted, seems +to be a very pretty place, looking more the residence of hereditary ease +and luxury, than the capital of a republic of thrifty graziers. It is, +in fact, an assemblage of villas; the wide streets run between rows of +trees, and the houses, each in its own little garden, are shaded by +verandas. + +In that very pleasant little book, the "Miseries of Human Life," one of +those small calamities is, the being called at the wrong hour to go off +in the wrong coach from a Yorkshire inn. Time and the railroad have +changed all this in England, but in America we have the primitive misery +well described. + +The author, after forty-two hours of hard jolting, goes to bed at one +o'clock to obtain a little repose, leaving orders to be called at five +in the morning. He is wrapt in the profoundest of all possible slumbers, +when a peal of blows is heard at his door. "In spite, however, of +laziness, and a cold morning to boot," he says, "I had completed the +operations of washing and dressing by candlelight, having even donned +hat and gloves, to join my companions, when the waiter entered my room +with a grin. 'I guess,' said the rascal, 'I have put my foot in it. Are +you the man that wanted to be called at two?' 'No,' was my reply. +'Then,' said he, 'I calculate I have fixed the wrong man, so you had +better go to bed again.' Having delivered himself of this friendly +advice, he went to awaken my neighbour, who had all this time been +quietly enjoying the sleep that properly belonged to me. Instead of +following the fellow's recommendation, I sat up for the rest of the +night." Whether the author possessed a watch we cannot tell, but if he +was master of that useful and not very rare article, he might have saved +himself his premature trouble, and escaped shaving at midnight. + +On crossing into the Canadian territory, he encounters one of those +evidences of popular liberty which belong to rather the American than +the English side. In the village of St John's, some of the party went +a-head to the principal inn, and as it was late at night, and their +knocking produced no effect, they appealed to what they regarded as the +most accessible of the landlord's susceptibilities, his pocket, by +saying that they were fourteen, more coming, with a whole host of +drivers. This appeal was the most unlucky possible, for the landlord had +another sensibility, the fear of being tarred and feathered, if not +hanged. On the door being opened at last, the landlord was not to be +found; his brother wandered about, the very ghost of despair. The +establishment was searched upside and downside, inside and outside, in +vain; and they began to think themselves the cause of some domestic +tragedy; but it must have been a late perpetration, for on looking into +his bed, they found the lair warm. + +However, after a short time, mine host returned with a face all smiles. +The mystery was then explained. The election had taken place during the +day, and the landlord, having taken the part of the candidate who +eventually succeeded, was threatened with vengeance by the losing party. +The arrival of the travellers convinced him that his hour was come, and +he had jumped out of bed and hidden himself in some inscrutable corner. +But a good supper reconciled every thing. + +The author crossed the ice to Montreal, and had a showy view of the +metropolis of the Canadas. A curious observation is suggested by +Montreal, on the different characters of the English and French +population. In the days of Wolf and Amherst, it was all French; but +John Bull, with his spirit of activity and industry, has quietly become +master of all the trading situations of the city, while the French have +as quietly retreated, and spread themselves through the upper sections +of it, to a great degree cut off from its commercial portions. + +From Montreal the travel began. The heavy canoes were sent forward some +days before, under the charge of some of the Company's officers, the +light canoes waited for the author, with Colonel Oldfield, chief +engineer in Canada, who was going up the country on a survey of the +navigation, and the Earls of Mulgrave and Caledon, who were going to the +Red River, buffalo-hunting. + +All was now ready in form, and on the 4th of May the two canoes were +floating on the Lactrine canal. The crews, thirteen to one vessel, and +fourteen to the other, were partly Canadians, but principally Iroquois. +Those _voyageurs_, as they are called, had each been supplied with a +feather in his cap, in honour of the occasion, and evidently expected to +produce a _sensation_ on shore. But a north-wester blowing prevented the +hoisting of their flags, which mulcted the pageant of much of its +intended glory. These canoes are thirty-five feet in length, and five +feet wide in the centre; drawing about eighteen inches water, and +weighing between three and four hundred pounds; capitally fitted for a +navigation among rocks, rapids, and portages; but they seem most +uncomfortable in rough weather. The waves of the St Lawrence rolled like +a sea, the gale was biting, and the snow drifted heavily in the faces of +the party. In this luckless condition, we are not surprised at the +intelligence, that at St Anne's Rapids, notwithstanding the authority of +the poet, "they sang no evening hymn." + +This style of travelling was not certainly much mingled with luxury. +Next morning, after "toiling for six hours," they breakfasted, "with the +wet ground for their table, and with rain in place of milk to cool their +tea." On this day, while running close under the falls of the Rideau, +they seem to have had a narrow escape from a _finale_ to their voyage; +their canoes being swept into the middle of the river, under an immense +fall, fifty feet in height. + +They now learned the art of _bivouaching_, and after a day of toiling +through portages, reserving the severest of them, the Grand Calumet, for +the renewed vigour of the morning, they made ready for the forest night. +The description, brief as it is, is one among many which shows the +_artist_ eye. + +"The tents were pitched in a small clump of pines, while round a blazing +fire the passengers were collected, amid a medley of boxes, barrels, +cloaks, and on the rock above the foaming rapids were lying the canoes; +the men flitting about the fires as if they were enjoying a holiday, and +watching a huge cauldron suspended above the fire. The whole with a +background of dense woods and a lake." + +Yet, startling as this "wooing of nature" in her rough moods may seem to +the silk-and-velvet portion of the world, we doubt whether this wild +life, with its desperate toil and its ground sleep, may not be the true +charm of travel to saint, savage, or sage, when once fairly forced to +the experiment. The blazing fire, the bed of leaves, the gay supper, +made gayer still by incomparable appetite, and the sleep after all, in +which the whole outward man remains imbedded, without the movement of a +muscle and without a dream, until the morning awakes him up a new being, +are fully worth all the inventions of art, to make us enjoy rest +unearned by fatigue, and food without waiting for appetite. "The sleep +of the weary man is sweet," said the ancient and wise king who slept +among curtains of gold, and under roofs of cedar; the true way to taste +that sleep is to spend a day, dragging canoes up Indian portages, and +lie down with one's feet warmed by a pine blaze and one's back to the +shelter of a forest. + +But, as the time will assuredly come when this "life in the woods" will +be no more, when huge inns will supersede the canopy of the skies, and +down beds will make the memory of birch twigs and heather blossoms pass +away, we give from authority the proceedings of an evening's rest, which +the next generation will study with somewhat of the feeling of reading +Tacitus De Moribus Germanorum. + +As the sun approached his setting, every eye in the canoes, as they +pulled along, was speculating on some dry and tolerably open spot on the +shore. _That_ once found, all were on shore in an instant. Then the axe +was heard ringing among the trees, to prepare for the fires, and make +room for the tents. In ten minutes, the tents were pitched, the fires +blazing in front of each, and the supper preparing in all its +diversities. The beds were next made, consisting of an oil-cloth laid on +the ground, with blankets and a pillow; occasionally aided by +great-coats, _a discretion_. The crews, drawing the canoes on shore, +first made an inspection of their hurts during the day; and having done +this, the little vessels were turned into a shelter, and each man +wrapping himself in his blanket defied the weather and the world. + +But this state of happiness was never destined to last long. About _one_ +in the morning, the cry, of "_Leve_, _leve_," broke all slumbers. We +must acknowledge that the hour seems premature, and that the most +patient of travellers might have solicited a couple of hours more of +"tired Nature's sweet restorer." But the discipline of the bivouac was +Spartan. If the slumberer did not instantly start up, the tent was +pulled down about him, and he found himself half-smothered in canvass. +However, we must presume that this seldom happened, and, within half an +hour, every thing would be packed, the canoes laden, and the paddles +moving to some "merry old song." In this manner passed the day, six +hours of rest, to eighteen of labour, a tremendous disproportion, even +to the sturdy Englishman, or the active Irishman, but perfectly +congenial to the sinews and spirit of the gay _voyageur_. + +A few touches more give the complete picture of the day. About eight, a +convenient site would be selected for breakfast. Three-quarters of an +hour being the whole time allotted for unpacking and packing, boiling +and frying, eating and drinking. "While the preliminaries were +arranging, the _hardier_ among us would wash and shave, each person +carrying soap and towel in his pocket, and finding a _mirror_ in the +same sandy or rocky basin which held the water. About two in the +afternoon, we put ashore for dinner, and as this meal needed no fire, +or, at least, got none, it was not allowed to occupy more than twenty +minutes, or half an hour." + +We recommend the following considerations to the amateur boat clubs, and +others, who plume themselves on their naval achievements between Putney +and Vauxhall bridges. Let them take the work of a Canadian paddle-man to +heart, and lower their plumage accordingly. + +"The quality of the work, even more than the quantity, requires +operatives of iron mould. In smooth water, the paddle is plied with +twice the rapidity of the oar, taxing both arms and lungs to the utmost +extent. Amid shallows, the canoe is literally dragged by the men, wading +to their knees or their loins, while each poor fellow, after replacing +his drier half in his seat, laughingly strikes the heavier of the wet +from his legs over the gunwale, before he gives them an inside berth. In +rapids, the towing line has to be hauled along over rocks and stumps, +through swamps and thickets, excepting that when the ground is utterly +impracticable, poles are substituted, and occasionally also the bushes +on the shore." + +This however is "plain sailing," to the Portages, where the tracks are +of all imaginable kinds and degrees of badness, and the canoes and their +cargoes are never carried across in less than two or three trips; the +little vessels alone monopolizing, in the first turn, the more expert +half of their respective crews. Of the baggage, each man has to carry at +least two pieces, estimated at a hundred and eighty pounds weight, which +he suspends in slings placed across his forehead, so that he may have +his hands free, to clear his way among the branches and standing or +fallen trunks. Besides all this, the _voyageur_ performs the part of +bridge, or jetty, on the arrival of the canoe at its place of rest, the +gentlemen passengers being carried on shore on the backs of these +good-humoured and sinewy fellows. + +For the benefit of the untravelled, we should say, that a Portage is the +fragment of land-passage between the foot and head of a rapid, when the +rush of the stream is too strong for the tow-rope. + +At one of the halting-places on Lake Superior, a curious tale was told +of the Indian's belief in a Providence, of which it had been the scene. + +Three or four years before, a party of Salteaux, much pressed for +hunger, were anxious to reach one of their fishing stations, an island +about twenty miles from the shore. The spring had unluckily reached that +point, when there was neither clear water, nor trustworthy ice. A +council was being held, to consider the hard alternatives of drowning +and starving, when an old man of influence thus spoke: + +"You know, my friends, that the Great Spirit gave one of our squaws a +child yesterday; now, he cannot have sent it into the world to take it +away again directly. I should therefore recommend the carrying the child +with us, as the pledge of safety." + +We wish that we could have to record a successful issue to this +anticipation. But the transit was too much for the metaphysics of the +old Indian. They went on the treacherous ice, it gave way, and +eight-and-twenty perished. + +The Thunder Mountain on their route, struck them as "one of the most +appalling objects" which they had seen, being a bleak rock twelve +hundred feet high above the level of the lake, with a perpendicular face +of its full height. The Indians say, that any one who can scale it, and +"turn three times on the brink of its fearful wall, will live for ever." +We presume, by dying first. + +But the shores of this mighty lake, or rather fresh-water sea, which +seemed destined to loneliness for ever, are now likely to hear the din +of population and blaze with furnaces and factories. Its southern coasts +are found to possess rich veins of copper and silver. Later inquiry has +discovered on the northern shore "inexhaustible treasures of gold, +silver, copper, and tin," and associations have been already formed to +work them. Sir George Simpson even speaks of the future probability of +their rivalling in point of wealth the Altai chain, and the Uralian +mountains. + +From Fort William, at the head of Lake Superior, the little expedition +entered a river with a polysyllabic name, which leads farther on, to the +"Far West." The banks were beautiful. When this country shall be +peopled, it will be one of the resemblances of the primitive paradise. + +It is all picturesque; the river finely diversified with rapids, and +with one cataract which, though less in volume than Niagara, throws that +far-famed fall into the background, in point of height and wildness of +scenery. But we must leave description to the author's pen. "The river, +during this day's march, passed through forests of elm, oak, birch, &c., +being studded with isles not less fertile and lovely than its banks. And +many a spot reminded us of the rich and quiet scenery of England. The +paths of the numerous portages were spangled with roses, violets, and +many other wild flowers--while the currant, the gooseberry, the +raspberry, the plum, the cherry, and even the vine, were abundant. All +this bounty of nature was imbued, as it were, with life, by the cheerful +notes of a variety of birds, and by the restless flutter of butterflies +of the brightest hues." He then makes the natural and graceful +reflection-- + +"One cannot pass through this fair valley without feeling that it is +destined to become, sooner or later, the happy home of civilised men, +with their bleating flocks, and their lowing herds--with their schools +and their churches--with their full garners, and their social hearths. +At the time of our visit, the great obstacle in the way of so blessed a +consummation was the hopeless wilderness to the eastward, which seemed +to bar for ever the march of settlement and cultivation, but which will +soon be an open road to the far west with all its riches. That +wilderness, now that it is to yield up its long-hidden stores, bids fair +to remove the impediments which hitherto it has itself presented. The +mines of Lake Superior, besides establishing a continuity of route +between the East and the West, will find their nearest and cheapest +supply of agricultural produce in the valley of the Kaministaquoia." + +One of the especial hazards of the forest now encountered them. Passing +down a narrow creek near _Lac le Pluie_, fire suddenly burst forth in +the woods near them. The flames crackling and clambering up each tree, +quickly rose above the forest; within a few minutes more the dry grass +on the very margin of the waters, was in "a running blaze, and before +they were clear of the danger, they were almost enveloped in clouds of +smoke and ashes. These conflagrations, often caused by a wanderer's +fire, or even by his pipe, desolate large tracts of country, leaving +nothing but black and bare trunks, one of the most dismal scenes on +which the eye can look. When once the fire gets into the thick turf of +the primeval wilderness, it sets every thing at defiance. It has been +known to smoulder for a whole winter under the deep snow." + +Another Indian display quickly followed. After traversing the lake, they +were hailed by the warriors of the Salteaux, a band of about a hundred, +the fighting men of a tribe of five hundred. Their five chiefs presented +a congratulatory address on their safe arrival, requesting an audience, +which was appointed, at the rather undiplomatic hour of _four_ next +morning. But, while the Governor was slumbering, the Indians were +preparing means of persuasion more effective, in their conceptions, than +even the oratory on which they seem to pride themselves very +highly--"while they were napping, the enemy were pelting away at them +with their incantations." + +In the centre of a conjuring tent--a structure of branches and bark, +forty feet in length by ten in width--they kindled a fire; round the +blaze stood the chiefs and "medicine men," while as many others as could +find room were squatted against the walls. Then, to enlighten and +convert the Governor, charms were muttered, rattles were shaken, and +offerings were committed to the flames. After all these operations the +silent spectators, at a given signal, started on their feet and marched +round the magic circle, singing, whooping, and drumming in horrible +discord. With occasional intervals, which were spent by the performers +in taking fresh air, the exhibition continued during the whole night, so +that when the appointed hour arrived they were still engaged in their +observances. At length the two parties met in the open square of the +fort. The Indians dressed in all their glory, a part of which consists +in smearing their faces entirely out of sight with colours--the +prevailing fashion being, forehead white, nose and cheeks red, mouth and +chin black. + +The Governor and his party of course made their best effort to meet all +this magnificence. Lord Caledon and Lord Mulgrave exhibited in +regimentals; the rest put on their _dressing-gowns_, which, being of +showy patterns, were equally effective. Seated in the "hall of +conference," the pipes being sent round, hands shaken, and all due +ceremonial having been performed, the Indian orator commenced his +harangue in the style with which we have now become familiar. Beginning +with the creation, &c. &c., which Sir George cut short, and suddenly +dropping down into the practical complaint, "that we had stopped their +rum," though our predecessors had promised to furnish it "as long as the +waters flowed down the rapids." "Now," said he, in allusion to our empty +casks, "if I crack a nut, will water flow from it?" + +The Governor replied, that the withdrawal of the rum was _not_ to save +expense but to benefit them. He then gave them his advice on temperance, +and promised them a small quantity of rum every autumn. He also promised +a present for their civility in bringing their packet of furs, for which +they should receive payment besides. Then followed a general and final +shaking of hands, and the Congress between the English and Chippaway +nations broke up to their mutual satisfaction. + +The Red River settlement, of which we heard so often during the quarrels +between Lord Selkirk and the Company, will yet be a great colony; the +soil is very fertile (one of the most important elements of +colonisation,) its early tillage producing forty returns of wheat; and, +even after twenty years of tillage, without manure, fallow, or green +crop, yielding from fifteen to twenty-five bushels an acre. The wheat +is plump and heavy, and, besides, there are large quantities of other +grain, with beef, mutton, pork, butter, cheese, and wool in abundance. +This would be the true country for emigration from our impoverished +islands, and will, of course, be crowded when conveyances shall become +more manageable. A railroad across Canada must still be a rather Utopian +conception, but it might be well worth the expense of making by +government, even though it produced nothing for the next half-dozen +years, for the multitudes whom it would carry through the heart of this +superb country in the half-dozen years after, and for the wealth which +they would pour into England in every year to come. + +The settlement, however, meets, in its turn, the common chances of an +American climate. In winter the cold is intense. The summer is short, +and the rivers sometimes overflow and drown the crops. Still what are +these things to the population, where food is plenty, the air healthy, +and the ground cheap, fertile and untaxed. In fact, the difficulties, in +such instances, are scarcely more than incitements to the ingenuity of +man, to provide resources against them. The season of snow is a time of +cheerfulness in every land of the north. In Denmark, Russia, and Canada, +when the rivers close up, business is laid by for the next six months; +and the time of dancing, driving, and feasting begins. Food is the great +requisite; when that is found, every thing follows. + +In addition to agriculture, or in place of it, the settlers, more +particularly those of mixed origin, devote the summer, the autumn, and +sometimes the winter also, to the hunting of the buffalo, bringing home +vast quantities of pemmican, dried meat, grease, tongues, &c. for which +the Company and voyaging business affords the best market. + +The party now proceeded, still with their faces turned to the west, and +marched for some days over an immense prairie, which seemed to them to +have been once the bottom of a huge lake. A rather striking circumstance +is, that nearly every height in this region has its romance of savage +life. We give one of murder, for the benefit of the modern school of +novelists. + +Many summers ago, a party of Assinabaians fell on a party of Crees in +the neighbourhood of the Beatte a Carcajar, a conspicuous knoll in this +neighbourhood, and nearly destroyed them all. Among the assailants was +the former wife of one of the Crees, who had been carried off from him, +in an earlier foray, by her present lord and master. From whatever +motive of domestic memory, this Amazon rushed into the thickest of the +fight, for the evident purpose of killing the original husband. He, +however, escaped; and while the victors were scalping his unfortunate +companions, creeping stealthily along for a whole day under cover of the +woods, he laid down at night in a hollow at the top of the Knoll. But +his wife had never lost sight of him, and no sooner had he, in the +exhaustion of hunger and fatigue, sunk into a sound sleep, than she sent +an arrow into his brain. She then possessed herself of his scalp, and +exhibited it as her prize to the victors. The title of the slain savage +was the Wolverine, and the spot is still called the Wolverine's Knoll. + +The Indians assert that the ghosts of the murderess and her victim are +often to be seen struggling on the height. + +Human nature, left to itself, is a fierce and frightful thing; and the +stories of savage life are nearly all of the same calibre, and all +exhibit a dreadful love of revenge. About twenty years ago, a large +encampment of Black-feet and others, had been formed in those prairies +for the purpose of hunting. The warriors, however, growing tired of +their peaceful occupation, resolved to make an incursion into the lands +of the Assinabaians. They left behind them the old men with the women +and children. After a successful campaign, they turned their steps +homewards, loaded with scalps and other spoils, and on reaching the top +of the ridge that overlooked their camp, they gave note of their +approach by the usual shouts of victory. But no shout answered, and on +descending to their huts, they found the whole of the inmates +slaughtered. The Assinabaians had been there to take their revenge. + +On beholding the dismal scene, the triumphant warriors cast away their +spoils, arms, and clothing, and then putting on robes of leather, and +smearing their heads with mud, they betook themselves to the hills for +three days and nights, to howl and moan, and cut their flesh. It is +observed, that this mode of expressing public grief, bears a striking +resemblance to the customs of the Jews. The track towards Fort Vancouver +exhibited a country, which may yet make a great figure in the American +world,--immense valleys sheltered by mountain ridges, and containing +beautiful lakes. In one instance, their tents were pitched in a valley +of about five hundred acres enclosed by mountains on three sides, and a +lake on the fourth. From the edge of the waters there arose a gentle +descent of six or eight hundred feet covered with vines, and composed of +the accumulated fragments of the heights above; and on the upper border +of this slope there stood perpendicular walls of granite of three or +four thousand feet high, while among those dizzy altitudes, the goats +and sheep bounded in playful security. This defile had been the scene of +an exploit. One of the Crees, whom they had met a few days before, had +been tracked into the valley along with his wife and family by five +warriors of a hostile tribe. On perceiving the odds against him, the man +gave himself up for lost, observing to the woman, that as they could die +but once, they had better die without resistance. The wife, however, +said, that "as they had but one life to lose, they had the more reason +to defend it," and, suiting the action to the word, the heroic wife +brought the foremost of the enemy down to the ground by a bullet, while +the husband disposed of two others by two arrows. The fourth warrior was +rushing on the woman with uplifted tomahawk, when he stumbled and fell. +She darted forward, and buried her knife in his heart. The sole +surviving assailant now turned and fled, discharging, however, a bullet +which wounded the man in the arm. + +They had now reached that rocky range from which the eastern and western +rivers of those mighty provinces take their common departure. Here they +estimated the height of the pass to be seven or eight thousand feet +above sea-level, while the peaks seemed to be nearly half that height +above their heads. + +Of course, the party often felt the torture of mosquitoes, but one +valley was so pre-eminently infested with those tormentors, that man and +beast alike preferred being nearly choked with smoke, in which they +plunged, for the sake of escaping their stings. But we advert to this +common plague of all forest travel, only for its legendary honours. + +"The Canadians vented their curses against the OLD MAID, who had the +credit of having brought the scourge upon earth, by praying for +something to fill up the leisure of her single blessedness." And if, as +the author observes, "the tormentors would confine themselves to +nunneries and monasteries, the world might see something more of the +fitness of things in the matter." + +At the close of August, the party reached Fort Vancouver, having crossed +the Continent, by a route of five thousand miles, in twelve weeks' +travelling. + +They now made a visit to the Russian-American Company's Establishment of +New Archangel. This exhibited considerable signs of commerce. In the +harbour were five sailing vessels from 250 to 350 tons; besides a large +bark in the offing in tow of a steamer, which brought advices from St +Petersburgh down to the end of April. An officer came off conveying +Governor Etholine's compliments and welcome. The party landed, and were +received in the residence situated on the top of a rock. The Governor's +dwelling consisted of a suite of apartments communicating, according to +the Russian fashion, with each other, all the public, rooms being +handsomely decorated and richly furnished. It commanded a view of the +whole establishment, which was, in fact, a little village. About half +way down the rock, two batteries frowned respectively over the land and +the water. Behind the Bay arise stupendous piles of conical mountains +with summits of everlasting snow. To seaward, Mount Edgecumbe, also in +the form of a cone, rears its trunk-headed peak, still remembered as +the source of smoke and flame, lava and ashes, but now the repository of +the snows of an age. Next day, the Governor, in full uniform, came in +his gig to return the visit to Sir George on board his steamer. The +party were invited on shore, where they were introduced to Madame +Etholine, a pretty and lady-like woman, a native of Finland. They then +visited the schools, in which there were twenty boys and as many girls; +the boys were intended chiefly for the naval service, nor did religion +seem to be neglected any more than education. The Greek Church had its +bishop, fifteen priests, deacons, and followers, and the Lutherans had +their clergyman. The ecclesiastics were all maintained by the Imperial +Government. Such is Sitka, the principal depot of the Russian-American +Company. It has various subordinate establishments. The operations of +the Company are becoming more extensive, and at this period the returns +of the trade amounted to about 25,000 skins of beavers, otters, foxes, +&c. + +Among the company at the Russian Governor's, was a half-breed native, +who had been the leader of an expedition equipped some years ago, for +the discovery of what would here be styled the North-East passage. The +Russians reached Point Barrow shortly after the expedition under Mr +Thomas Simpson had reached the same point from the opposite direction. +The climate seems to be sufficiently trying, and during the four days at +Sitka there was nearly one continued fall of rain. The weather was cold +and squally, snow had fallen, and the channels were traversed by +restless masses which had broken off from the glaciers. In short nothing +could exceed the dreariness of the coast. + +This shore, of which so much has been said and written during the late +Oregon negociations, is described as the very scene for the steam-boat. +Here are the Straits of Juan de Fuca; and here Admiral Fonte penetrated +up the more northerly inlets. They are the very region made for the +steam-boat, as in the case of a sailing vessel their dangers and delays +would have been tripled and quadrupled. But steam has also a power +almost superstitious on the minds of the natives; besides acting on +their fears, it has in a great measure subdued their love of robbery and +violence. It has given the savage a new sense of the superiority of his +white brother. + +A striking instance of this feeling is given. After the arrival of the +emigrants from Red River, their guide, an Indian, took a short trip in +the Beaver. When asked what he thought of her, "Don't ask me," was his +reply. "I cannot speak; my friends will think that I tell lies when I +let them know what I have seen. Indians are fools, and know nothing. I +can see that the iron machinery makes the ship go, but I cannot see what +makes the iron machinery itself go." This man, though intelligent, and +partly civilized, was nevertheless so full of doubt and wonder that he +would not leave the vessel till he had got a certificate to the effect +that he had been on board of a ship which needed neither sails nor +paddles,--any document in writing being regarded by the Indians as +unquestionable. Fort Vancouver--which will probably be the head of a +great colony, is about ninety miles from the sea, the Colombia in front +of it, being a mile in width--contains houses, stores, magazines, &c. +Outside the fort, the dwellings of the servants, &c. form a little +village. The people of the establishment vary in number, according to +the season of the year, from one hundred and thirty to more than two +hundred. Divine service is regularly performed every Sunday in English +to the Protestants. But at the time of this journal there was +unfortunately no English clergyman connected with the establishment. + +Sir George himself now visited California, the region which the Mexican +war is bringing into prominent notice. The harbour of San Francisco is +magnificent, the first view of the shore presented a level sward of +about a mile in depth, backed by a ridge of grassy slopes, the whole +pastured by numerous herds of cattle and horses, which, without a keeper +or a fold, fattened whether their owners waked or slept. + +The harbour displays a sheet of water of about thirty miles in length +by about twelve in breadth, sheltered from every wind by an amphitheatre +of green hills. But this sheet of water forms only a part in the inland +sea of San Francisco. Whaler's Harbour, at its own northern extremity, +communicates by a strait of about two miles in width with the bay of San +Pedro, which leads by means of a second strait into Fresh Water Bay, of +nearly the same form and magnitude, and which forms the receptacle, of +two great rivers, draining vast tracts of country to the south-east and +north-east, which are navigable for inland craft, so that the harbour, +besides its matchless qualities as a port of refuge on this surf-beaten +coast, is the outlet of an immense, fair, and fertile region. + +But the beauties of nature are useless when they fall into the hands of +idlers and fools. Every thing in those fine countries seems to be +boasting and beggary. Every thing has been long sinking into ruin, +through mere indolence. The Californians once manufactured the fleeces +of their sheep into cloth. They are now too lazy to weave or spin, too +lazy even to clip and wash the raw material, and now the sheep have been +literally destroyed to make more room for the horned cattle. + +They once made the dairy an object of attention, now neither butter nor +cheese is to be found in the province. They once produced in the +Missions eighty thousand bushels of wheat and maize,--they were lately +buying flour at Monterey at the rate of L6 a sack. Beef was once +plentiful,--they were now buying salted salmon for the sea-store for one +paltry vessel, which constituted the entire line-of-battle of the +Californian navy. + +The author justly observes, that this wicked abuse of the soil and +consequent poverty of the people results wholly from "the objects of the +colonisation." Thus the emigrants from England to the northern colonies +looked to subsistence from the fruits of labour; ploughed, harrowed, and +grew rich, and civilized. On the other hand the colonists of "New +France" a name which comprehended the valleys of the St Lawrence and +Mississippi, dwindled and pined away, partly because the golden dreams +of the free trade carried them away from stationary pursuits, and partly +because the government considered them rather as soldiers than settlers. +In like manner Spanish America, with its _Serras_ of silver, holding out +to every adventurer the hope of earning his bread without the sweat of +his brow, became the paradise of idlers. + +In California the herds of cattle, and the sale of their hides and +tallow, offer so easy a subsistence, that the population think of no +other, and in consequence are poor, degenerate, and dwindling. Their +whole education consists in bullock hunting. In this view, unjust and +violent as may be the aggressions of the American arms, it is difficult +to regret the transfer of the territory into any hands which will bring +these fine countries into the general use of mankind, root out a race +incapable of improvement, and fill the hills and valleys of this mighty +province with corn and man. + +At present the produce of a bullock in hide, tallow, and horns, is about +five dollars, (the beef goes for nothing) of which the farmer's revenue +is averaged at a dollar and a half. This often makes up a large income. +General Vallego, who had about eight thousand head of cattle, must +receive from this source about ten thousand dollars a-year. The former +Missions, or Monkish revenues, must have been very large; that of San +Jose possessing thirty thousand head of cattle, Santa Clara nearly half +the number, and San Gabriel more than both together. + +It must be acknowledged that the monks had made a handsome affair of +holiness in the good old times. Previously to the Mexican revolution +their "missions" amounted, in the upper province alone, to twenty-one, +every one of course with its endowment on a showy scale. Every monk had +an annual stipend of four hundred dollars. But this was mere +pocket-money; they had "donations and bequests" from the living and from +the dead, a most capacious source of opulence, and of an opulence +continually growing, constituting what was termed the pious fund of +California. Besides all these things, they had the cheap labour of +eighteen thousand converts. But the drones were to be suddenly smoked +out of their hives. Mexico declared itself a republic; and, as the +first act of a republic, in every part of the world, is to plunder every +body, the property of the monks went in the natural way. The lands and +beeves, the "donations and bequests were made a national property," in +1825. Still some show of moderation was exhibited, and the names and +some of the offices of the missions were preserved. But, in 1836, the +Californians took the whole affair into their own hands, threw off the +Central Government, and were "free, independent," and beggared. The +Missions were then "secularized" at their ease. The Mexican government +was furious for a while, and threatened the Californians with all the +thunders of its rage; but the vengeance ended in the simple condition, +that California should still acknowledge the Mexican supremacy, taking +her own way in all that had been done, was doing, and was to be done. + +The travellers had now an opportunity of seeing the interior of a +Californian mansion, the house of the chief proprietor in this quarter, +General Vallego. + +We must acknowledge that Sir George Simpson would have much improved his +volumes by striking out the whole of this description. It is evident +that he was received with civilities of every kind;--he was provided +with horses and attendants;--he was taken to see all the remarkable +features of the estate and the habits of its people; he was _feted_, +introduced to wife and daughters, sons-in-law and daughters-in-law, sung +and danced for, and smiled on and talked with, as if he had been a +prince; and yet his whole account of this hospitality throws it into the +most repulsive light imaginable;--cold dinners, bad attendance, rude +furniture, and so forth, form the staple of his conceptions; and if his +book should ever reach General Vallego's hands, which it probably will, +through the zeal of American republication, we can easily imagine that +he will become cautious in his hospitality for the time to come. We, at +least, shall not extend the vexation of this Spanish gentleman by +quoting any part of this unfortunate _bevue_. We say this with regret. +But this style of repaying generous hospitality cannot be too distinctly +reproved, for the sake of all future travellers who may want, not merely +hospitality, but protection. + +The next subject of description is Monterey, which has lately assumed a +peculiar interest, as one of the objects of the American invasion. The +Bay of Monterey forms a segment of a circle with a chord of about +eighteen miles. Monterey had always been the seat of government, though +it consisted of but a few buildings. But, since the revolution of 1836, +it has expanded into a population of about seven hundred souls. The town +occupies a plain, bounded by a lofty ridge. The dwellings are the +reverse of pompous, being all built of mud bricks. The houses are +remarkable for a paucity of windows, glass being inordinately dear; even +parchment almost unattainable, and the artists in window-making charging +three dollars a-day! + +But, to the Californians, perhaps this privation of light is not an +evil. While it makes the rooms cooler, it cannot, by any possibility, +interfere with the occupations of those who do nothing. The bed affords +a curious contrast to the rest of the furniture. While the apartments +exhibit a deal-table, badly made chairs, probably a Dutch clock, and an +old looking-glass, the bed "challenges admiration by snowy white sheets, +fringed with lace, a pile of soft pillows, covered with the finest linen +or the richest satin, and a well-arranged drapery of costly and tasteful +curtains." Still this bed is "but a whited sepulchre," with a wool +mattress--"the impenetrable stronghold of millions of----." We leave the +rest to the imagination. + +The history of "Political Causes and Effects" would make a curious +volume; and it would admirably display, at once the profound agency of +Providence, and the shortsightedness of human policy. It would scarcely +be supposed that the devastation of Europe, and the sack of Berlin, +Vienna, and Moscow, found their origin in a Spanish treaty, on the banks +of the Mississippi, half a century before. + +The power of France in the interior of America, which had extended from +Canada to Louisiana, and which formed a line of posts for its boundary +along this immense internal _frontier_, kept the British Colonies in a +state of constant alarm; and, by consequence, in a state of continual +dependence on England. But the English possession of Canada, in 1763, +and the cession of Louisiana to Spain at the same period, as they +lessened the alarms, loosened the allegiance of the British colonies. +The next steps were more obvious. The war of the United States, in which +France was an auxiliary, inflamed the French population with the hope of +breaking down the strength of England and the aristocracy of France. But +the expense of equipping the French allied force fell heavy on an +exchequer already burthened by the showy extravagance of the Regent +Orleans, and by the gross profligacies of Louis XV. To relieve the +exchequer, the States General were summoned; and from that _moment_ +began the Revolution. The European war was the result of a republican +government, and the conquest of the Continent the result of placing +Napoleon on the throne of the empire. What further results may be still +preparing are beyond our knowledge; but it can scarcely be conceived +that the chain is yet finally broken. + +But before we take leave of California, we must do it the justice to +speak of San Barbara, which, as the author _rather_ emphatically +expresses it, is to Monterey "what the parlour is to the kitchen." + +The bay is an unfavourable one, being exposed to the "worst winds of the +worst season." But the town having been selected as the favourite +retreat of the more respectable functionaries of the province, Santa +Barbara exhibits the charms of aristocratic manners. The houses, +externally, are superior to any others on the coast, and, internally, +exhibit taste in their furniture and ornament. The ladies excite the +author's pen into absolute rapture; their sparkling eyes and glossy +hair, are, in themselves, sufficient to negative the idea of tameness or +insipidity, while their sylph-like figures exhibit fresh graces at every +step. This is supported by the more important qualities, of "being by +far the more industrious half of the community, and performing their +household duties with cheerfulness and pride." + +The men are a handsome race, and the greatest dandies imaginable, +completely modelled on the Andalusian Majo, and displaying the finest +linen, the most embroidered pantaloons, and the most glittering jackets +in the western world. Of course, it cannot be expected of any Spaniards +that they should do much, and beaux so fine cannot be expected to do any +thing. Accordingly, his day is spent in riding from house to house, on a +horse as fine as himself, a living machine of trappings, and the nights +in dancing, billiard-playing, and flirting. + +In all countries where serious things are habitually turned into +trifles, trifles become serious things. "The balls, in fact, seem more +like a matter of business than any thing else that is done in +California. For whole days beforehand, sweetmeats are laboriously +prepared in the greatest variety, and from beginning to end of the +festivities, which have been known to last several successive nights, so +as to make the performers, after wearing out their pumps, trip it in +sea-boots, both men and women displaying as much gravity as if attending +the funeral of their friends." + +A still more humanising portion of their tastes is their passion for +music. The guitar is heard in every house. Father, mother, and child are +all playing and singing; and, to the praise of their taste be it spoken, +playing nothing but the fandangoes, seguidillas, and ballads of Spain; +the truest, purest, and most touching of all music; well worth all the +_hammered_ harmonies of the German school, and all the long-winded and +laborious bravuras of the Italian. The Spanish music is the most +refined, and yet the most natural, in the world. + +We are glad to see this experienced judge of men and things speaking of +the Californians as "a happy people possessing the means of physical +pleasure to the full," even though he qualifies the opinion by their +"knowing no higher kind of enjoyment." + +It is true, that the Englishman, who knows what _intellectual_ enjoyment +is, will not abandon that highest, though most toilsome, of all +gratifications, for inferior indulgences; but it would be a fortunate +hour for the Englishman when he could get rid of some portion of the +toil that wears away his life, in exchange for the lighthearted +pleasures and simple occupations of foreign existence. Nor is there any +man who less prefers the dogged round of his cheerless exertions, or who +is more genuinely susceptible of essential enjoyment. We even think that +the cultivated Englishman has a finer relish for enjoyment than the man +of any other country. The caperings of the Frenchman, or the grimaces of +the Italian, have but little connexion with the mind. All foreigners +seem wretched when they have no physical excitement. There is not a more +miserable object on earth, than a Frenchman wandering through the +streets of London on a Sunday, when he can neither see the print shops +in the day, nor go to the play at night. The German is heart-broken for +the same reason, and shrouds himself and his sorrow in double clouds of +smoke. The Italian would worship Diana of Ephesus, or the Great African +Snake, if its pageantry, or puppet-show, would enable him to get through +the day of closed shops and _no_ opera! Yet, contemptible as this +restless hunting after nothings is, it would be fortunate for us if we +could qualify the severity and constancy of our national toil by some +mixture of the lighter pursuits of the Continent. + +The fertility of California is boundless; it produces every thing that +human appetite can desire. In the Mission-garden of San Gabriel were +produced grapes, oranges, lemons, olives, figs, bananas, plums, peaches, +apples, pears, pomegranates, raspberries, strawberries, &c. &c., while +in the adjoining Mission were found in addition, tobacco, the plantain, +the cocoa-nut, the indigo plant, and the sugar cane. + +But Nature is nothing, in this country, without a miracle; and the +history of every village probably furnishes its legend. The Missions, +however, may be presumed to be the peculiar favourites of Heaven. + +"When Padre Pedro Cambon, and Padre Somera, were selecting a site for +the Mission, escorted by ten soldiers, a multitude of Indians, armed, +presented themselves, and setting up horrid yells, seemed determined to +oppose its establishment. The fathers, fearing that war would ensue, +took out a piece of cloth with the image of our Lady upon it, and held +it up in view of the barbarians. This was no sooner done, than the whole +were quiet, being subdued by the sight of this most precious image; and +throwing on the ground their bows and arrows, their two captains came +running to lay the beads, which they had round their necks, at the feet +of the Sovereign Queen, in proof of their tender regard." We recommend +the trial of this holy Cloth on General Taylor. + +But there is no limit to the richness of this region. The valley of the +Zulares, in the neighbourhood, would support millions of people. Its +lakes and rivers all abound in fish, its forests have all kinds of +trees, some of them growing to a size which, but for the force of +testimony, would be incredible. One of these is stated by Humboldt as of +one hundred and eighteen feet in girth. "But this is a walking-stick +compared with another at Bodega, as described to Sir George by Governor +Etholine, of Sitka." It is thirty-six Russian fathoms (seven feet each) +in span, and seventy-five in height; so that, if tapered into a perfect +cone, it would contain nearly twenty-two thousand tons of bark and +timber. In addition, the valley contains immense herds of wild horses, +in troops of several thousands each. What a country will this be, when +it shall fall into the hands of an intelligent people! + +The last of the five posts, San Diego, is, next to San Francisco, the +best harbour in the province. Thus, Upper California contains, at its +opposite extremities, two of the best harbours on the Pacific Ocean; +each of them being enhanced in value by the distance of any others +worthy of the name, San Francisco being nearly one thousand miles from +Port Discovery in the north, and San Diego six hundred miles from the +Bay of Magdalena in the south. + +That in the hands of any vigorous possessors this country would form a +most powerful kingdom, is beyond all question; and Sir George Simpson +evidently thinks that it might easily be acquired, and with a +legitimate claim too, by England. But the still higher question is the +policy of a perpetual increase of territory. England already has in +America a larger extent of territory than she can people for five +hundred years to come. But the possession of California, and perhaps of +the whole extent of the Mexican provinces, is on the eve of decision; +the American invasion has found no resistance that can deserve the name. +The Mexicans fly in every quarter, and a few discharges of cannon put +them to flight by thousands. At this moment the whole Mexican Republic, +equal in size to half a dozen European States, appears to be crumbling +into fragments. The rambling expeditions of the Americans are ravaging +it in all directions with impunity, and armies which might have been +long since annihilated by a mere guerilla war, have been suffered to +march from city to city, with scarcely more resistance than a +cattle-stealing skirmish. By the last intelligence, San Juan d' Ulloa +has fallen, and Vera Cruz has capitulated after a siege of only three +days and a half. The castle is the strongest fortification in the +Western World--and, as Napoleon said of Malta, "It is lucky that it had +somebody inside to open the gates for us:" the garrison of this fortress +seems to have been placed there merely for the purpose of surrendering +it. But, whatever may be the fate of men who had such a fortress to +defend, and yet whose defence actually cost the assailants but +_seventeen_ killed! there can be but one feeling of commiseration for +the unhappy inhabitants of Vera Cruz, on whom was rained, day and night, +a shower of shot and shell amounting to more than seven thousand of +those tremendous missiles. It is computed that the slaughter, and that +slaughter chiefly of women and children, amounts to thousands. These are +terrible things, even where they may be supposed the _necessities_ of +war. But here we can discover no necessity--Vera Cruz was _no_ +fortification, it was nearly an open town. We recollect no similar +instance of a bombardment. In Europe, it has long been a rule of +military morals, that no open city shall ever be bombarded. We believe +it to be the boast of the first living soldier in the world--and we +could have no more honourable one--that he never suffered a city to be +bombarded; from the obvious fact, that the chief victims were the +helpless inhabitants, while the soldiery are sheltered by the casemates +and bomb-proofs. + +At all events, we must regard the contest as decided. The Government has +exhibited nothing more than a sullen resolution; and the people little +more than the apathy of their own cattle; the troops have exhibited no +evidence of discipline, and the only resource of the Finance has been in +the wild projects of an empty Exchequer. Whether the United States will +be the more prosperous for this conquest, is a question of time alone. +Whether the facility of the conquest may not make the multitude frantic +for general aggression,--whether the military men of the States may not +obtain a popularity and assume a power which has been hitherto confined +to civil life,--whether the attractions of military career may not turn +the rising generation from the pursuits of trade and tillage, to the +idle, or the ferocious life of the American campaigner,--and whether the +pressure of public debt, the necessity for maintaining their half-savage +conquests by an army, and the passion for territorial aggrandisement, +may not urge them to a colonial war with England,--are only parts of the +great problem which the next five-and-twenty years will compel the +American Republic to solve. + +At the same time, we cannot avoid looking upon the invasion of Mexico as +a portion of that extraordinary and mysterious agency which is now +shaking all the great stagnant districts of the world; which has already +awaked Turkey in Europe and in Asia Minor; which has brought Egypt into +civilised action; which has broken down the barbarism of the Algerines, +and planted the French standard in place of the furies and profligacies +of African Mahometanism. Deeply deprecating the guilt of those +aggressions, and condemning the crimes by which they have been +sustained, we cannot but regard changes so unexpected, so powerful, and +so simultaneous, as the operation of a higher power than man's, with +objects altogether superior to the shortsightedness of man, and amply +bearing the character of working good out of evil, which belongs to the +history of Divine Providence in all the ages of the world. + +There is one peculiarity in these volumes which we cannot sufficiently +applaud, and that is, the thoroughly English spirit in which they are +written. Without weak partiality, for the reasons are every where +assigned; without narrow prejudice, for the facts are in all instances +stated; and without derogating from the merits of other nations, the +work is calculated to give a just conception of the value of England to +the world. + +On his return from the Sandwich Isles--an interesting portion of his +travels, to which we have not now time to advert in detail--and +preparing to start from the Russian post of New Archangel by a five +months' journey through the Russian empire, he gives a glance at what he +has done. + +"I have," says he, "threaded my way round nearly half the globe, +traversing about 220 degrees of longitude, and upwards of 100 of +latitude, barely one fourth of this by the ocean. Notwithstanding all +this, I have uniformly felt more at home, with the exception of my first +sojourn at Sitka, than I should have felt in Calais. I have every where +seen our race, under a great variety of circumstances, either actually +or virtually invested with the attributes of sovereignty." + +After a few words on the vigour of the English blood, as exhibited in +the commerce, intelligence, and activity of the United States, he +returns to the immediate possessions and prowess of England. "I have +seen the English posts which stud the wilderness from the Canadian lakes +to the Pacific Ocean. I have seen English adventurers with that innate +power which makes every individual, whether Briton or American, a real +representative of his country, monopolising the trade, and influencing +the destinies of California. And lastly, I have seen the English +merchants of a barbarian Archipelago, which promises, under their +guidance, to become the centre of the traffic of the east and the west, +of the new world and the old. In saying all this, I have seen less than +half the grandeur of the English race. How insignificant in comparison +are all the other nations of the earth, one nation alone excepted. +Russia and Great Britain literally gird the globe where either continent +has the greatest breadth, a fact which, taken in connexion with their +early annals, can scarcely fail to be regarded as the work of a special +Providence. After the fall of the Roman empire, a scanty and obscure +people suddenly burst on the west and east, as the dominant race of the +times; one swarm of the Normans making its way to England, while another +was establishing its supremacy over the Sclavonians of the Borysthenes, +the two being to meet in opposite directions at the end of a thousand +years." + +He regards the gigantic power of Russia as in an unconscious +co-partnership with England in the grand cause of commerce and +civilisation. He also makes the curious and true remark that, +notwithstanding the astonishing successes of the Normans in Europe, they +were never numerous enough to establish their language in any of the +conquered countries. Their unparalleled successes, therefore, seem to +express the idea that those feeble bands of warriors were strengthened +every where to accomplish the purposes of Providence. + +We now come to the overland journey to Siberia. On the 23d of July, they +reached the port of Ochotsk, where, however, they were met by masses of +floating ice. Here Sir George had the first intelligence from England, +which brought to his English heart the glad tidings of the birth of a +Prince of Wales. They found this settlement a collection of huts on a +shingly beach. The population is about 800 souls. A more dreary scene +can scarcely be conceived than the surrounding country. Not a tree, and +even scarcely a green blade is to be seen within miles of the town. The +climate is on a par with the soil. The summer consists of three months +of damp and chilly weather, during great part of which the snow still +covers the hills, and the ice chokes the harbour, and this is succeeded +by nine months of dreary winter. But when men find fault with such a +climate as this, the fact is, that the fault is their own. Those +climates were never intended for the residence of man; they were +intended for the white bear, the seal, the whale, and the fur-bearing +animals. To those inhabitants, they are perfectly adapted. If the rage +of conquest, or the eagerness for gain, fixes human beings in the very +empire of winter, they are intruders, and must suffer for their +unsuitable choice of a locale. + +The principal food of the inhabitants is fish. On fish they feed +themselves; their dogs--which are equivalent to their carriage +horses--their cattle, and their poultry, are also chiefly fed on fish. +All other provisions are ruinously dear. Flour costs twenty-eight rubles +the pood,--(a ruble is worth about a franc, the pood is thirty-six +English pounds.) Beef is so dear as to be regarded as a treat, and wines +and groceries have to pay a land carriage of seven thousand miles. + +Here, too, the people drink tea in the style in which it was introduced +in more primitive days into Europe. It is of the kind known as brick +tea, being made up in cakes, and is consumed in great quantities by the +lower orders in Siberia, being made into a thick soup, with the addition +of butter and salt. + +On the 27th of the month, they began their journey across Siberia. After +leaving the shore, and boating the river Ochota, to an encampment where +they were to meet their horses, hired at the rate of forty-five rubles a +horse, on an agreement to be conveyed to Yakutsh in eighteen days, they +struck into the country, which exhibited forests of pine, their progress +being about four or five miles an hour. The Yakuti appear to be very +industrious; young and old, male and female, being always occupied in +some useful employment. When not engaged in travelling or farming, men +and boys make saddles, harness, &c.; while the women and girls keep +house, dress skins, prepare clothing, and attend to the dairy. They are +also remarkably kind to strangers, for milk and cream, the best things +they had to give, were freely offered in every village. This was the +10th of July, yet the snow was still partially lying on the ground. From +day to day they met caravans of horses; and one day they were startled +by the shouts of a party at the head of them. Their next sight was a +herd of cattle running wildly in all directions, and the cause was seen +in a huge she-bear and her cub moving off at a round trot. On this +route, the bears are both fierce and numerous. The country had now +become more fertile; there was no want of flowering plants, and the +forests were enlivened by the warbling of birds, which, contrasted as it +was with the deathlike silence of the American woods, was peculiarly +grateful to the ear. In the course of the day, the vexatious incident +occurred of meeting the courier, with the letters from England, which +had been looked for so anxiously on the arrival of the travellers in +Siberia; but the bags of course could not be opened on the road. + +The presence of the Cossack, who attended the party, was of great +importance in quickening the movements of the natives; but they seemed +kind and good-natured, full of civility to the strangers, and not +without some degree of education. The Yakuti have a singular mode of +estimating distances. In Germany, a common measure of distance is the +time that it takes to smoke a pipe. In this part of Siberia, they take +as their unit the time necessary for boiling a kettle of a particular +sort of food. They tell you, that such and such a place is so many +kettles off, or half a kettle, or, as the case may be, only part of a +kettle. + +At last they arrive at the Lena. This is described as one of the +grandest rivers in the world. At a distance of thirteen hundred versts +from the sea, (three versts are equal to two miles,) it is from five to +six miles wide. Its entire length is not less than four thousand versts. +The word Lena implies lazy--a name justified by the circuitous flowing +of its stream. At Yakutsk, the seat of the Governor, they were received +with great civility in this capital of the province, latitude sixty-two +north, and longitude one hundred and thirty east. The extreme +temperature of summer and winter is almost beyond belief, the +thermometer having, risen in the shade to 106 deg. of Fahrenheit, and in +winter having fallen to 83 deg. below zero--making a difference of 189 +deg. In this district are the enormous deposits of mammoth bones. Spring +after spring, the alluvial banks of the lakes and rivers crumbling under +the thaw have given up their dead; and the islands opposite to the mouth +of the Yana, and, as there was reason for believing, even the bed of the +ocean itself, teems with those mysterious memorials of antiquity. The +question is, how do those bones come there? Sir George, after giving the +opinions of some of the professors of geology, conceives the most +natural account of the phenomenon to be, that those animals or their +bones were swept from the great Tartarian pasturages of Cobi, by the +waters of the Deluge, towards the ocean. We must acknowledge that this +has long been our own opinion. It must be remembered that the Scriptural +account states the rising of the Deluge to have been gradual. The rain +fell forty days and nights. All living things would of course make their +way to the heights to escape the rising inundation of the valleys. The +cattle thus grouped together in immense herds, (the buffalos in the +prairies at the present day sometimes exceed five thousand in one +pasturage,) thus gathered into one mass, would be finally submerged, and +swept away in whatever irresistible current rushed over the spot on +which they stood. The frost of the region, which penetrates the earth to +the depth apparently of some hundred feet, would thenceforth preserve +them from decay. The tusks form an article of considerable trade, the +ivory selling from a shilling to one and ninepence a pound, according to +the perfection of the tusks. + +One of the travellers' especial wishes was, to have visited the town of +Kiachta, the place of commerce between the Russians and the Chinese. But +a note from the Governor mentioned that the Chinese had suddenly stopped +all communication. But a few words may be given to a commerce so +peculiar. By the treaty of Nertshinsk, a reciprocal liberty of traffic +was stipulated; and accordingly caravans on the part of the Russian +government, and individual traders, used to visit Pekin. But the +Muscovites exhibited so much of the native habits in "drinking and +roystering," that, after exhausting the patience of the Celestials +during three-and-thirty years, they were wholly excluded. But a +cessation of five years having taken place, the Russians in 1728 +obtained a treaty, by which individuals were permitted to trade on the +frontier; and Kiachta was built. But public caravans were permitted to +go on to Pekin. At length, in 1762, Catherine fixed the grand emporium +at Kiachta. + +This town, standing on a beach of the same name, is within about half a +furlong of the Chinese village of Maimatschin, (about the fiftieth +parallel of latitude,) being one thousand miles from Pekin, and four +thousand from Moscow. Such are the enormous distances through which the +eagerness for money-making drives the children of men. + +The materials of the Russian traffic are furs, woollens, cottons, linen, +&c., with articles in tin, copper, iron, &c.--the whole amounting to +about nineteen millions of rubles. The Chinese products are tea, silks, +sugar-candy, &c.--nominally to the amount of seven millions of rubles, +but probably rising to thrice the value. The chief time of the market is +the winter. To the chief Russian merchants this is a species of +monopoly, and a most thriving one, some of them being _millionnaires_, +and living in the most sumptuous manner, the "merchant princes" of the +wilderness! + +We had some curiosity to know the condition of the exiles to Siberia +from this intelligent eye-witness. But he gives little more than a +glance to a subject on which the public mind of England is at present so +much engaged. In Russia corporal punishment is much in use; but +criminals are seldom put to death. They are marched off to Siberia for +every kind of offence, from the highest political crime to petty +larceny. The most heinous offenders are sent to the mines; those guilty +of minor delinquencies are settled in villages, or on farms; and +those guilty of having opinions different from those of the +government--statesmen, authors, and soldiers--are generally suffered to +establish themselves in little knots, where they spread refinement +through the country. The consequence is, that "all grades of society are +decidedly more intelligent than the corresponding grades in any other +part of the empire, and perhaps more so than in most parts of Europe." + +Many of the exiles are now men of large income.--"The dwelling in which +we breakfasted to-day," says the traveller, "was that of a person who +had been sent to Siberia _against his will_. Finding that there was but +one way of bettering his condition, he worked hard, and behaved well. He +had now a comfortably furnished house and a well-cultivated farm, while +a stout wife, and plenty of servants, bustled about the premises. His +son had just arrived from St Petersburg, to visit his exiled father, and +had the pleasure of seeing him amid all the comforts of life, reaping an +abundant harvest, and with _one hundred and forty persons_ in his pay!" + +He adds, "In fact, for the _reforming_ of the criminal, in addition to +the punishment of the crime, Siberia is undoubtedly the best +_penitentiary_ in the world. When not bad enough for the mines, each +exile is provided with an allotment of ground, a house, a horse, two +cows, agricultural implements, and, for the first year, with provisions. +For three years he pays no taxes whatever, and for the next ten, only +half the full amount. To bring fear as well as hope to operate in his +favour, he clearly understands, that his very first slip will send him +from his home and family, to toil in the mines. Thus does the government +bestow an almost paternal care on the less atrocious criminals." + +Yet with this knowledge before the British Government,--for we must +presume that they had not overlooked the condition of the Russian +exiles; and with the still more impressive knowledge of the growth of +our Australian colonies, and the improvement of the convicts; the +new-fangled and most costly plan is now to be adopted of reforming our +criminals by keeping them at home! Thus we are to save the national +expenditure by building huge penitentiaries, which will cost millions of +money, and to secure society from depredation, by annually pouring out +from those prisons, as the time of their sentences expires, the whole +crowd of villany to live on villany once more;--making the very streets +a place of danger, and filling the country with hungry crime. + +The only argument on the opposite side is, that the free settlers are +offended by finding themselves in a population of convicts. But to this +the obvious answer is, that the colonisation of Australia was originally +intended as a school of reform--that the convicts have been to a great +extent reformed, which they never would have been at home--that the +convicts were in the colony first, and that the settlers going there, +with their eyes open, have no reason to complain. + +We then have a Notice on another subject, which is at present engrossing +the speculations of all Europe, namely, the gold-country on the +Yenissei. Krasnoyayk, the capital, stands in a plain in the centre of +the district, where the mania of gold-washing broke out about fifteen +years ago. Some individuals have been singularly lucky in their search. +One person, after having laboured in vain for three years, and expending +a million and a half of rubles, suddenly, in this very year, had hit +upon a depot which gave him a hundred and fifty poods of gold--worth +thirty-five thousand rubles each, or five millions and a half of rubles. +Gold here measures every thing: a lady's charms are by weight, "a pood +is a good girl, and two or three poods are twice or thrice as good as a +wife." _This_ province alone has, in this year, yielded five hundred +poods of gold. + +Ekaterineburg is the centre of the mining district of the Uralian +mountains. The population amounts to about fourteen thousand, who are +all connected with the mines. The town has an iron foundery, a mint for +copper and silver coin, and various establishments for cutting marble, +porphyry, and polishing precious stones. The neighbouring mountains +appear to be nature's richest repository of minerals, yielding, in great +abundance, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, &c.; gold, silver, iron, and +platina. These inexhaustible treasures chiefly belong to Count Demidoff +and M. Yakovleff. The Count is said to receive half a million sterling +a-year from this princely property. + +Hurrying now towards England, with the anxiety which every one feels to +reach home as the end of a long journey seems to be nigh, the traveller +passed through Kazan, second in national honour to Moscow, but found it +in ashes from a late fire. He then hurried on to Nishney-Novgorod, the +place of the greatest fair in the world, where the traffic brings +traders from the ends of the earth, and where the trade amounts to +nineteen millions sterling a-year. He then traversed the property of +General Sheremetieff, an estate of _two days' journey_, with a hundred +thousand serfs--a comfortable race when under a good master, each head +of a family having a farm, and paying its rent, part in produce and part +in work. The people appear to be a gay race--singing every where; +singing on the roads, singing at work, and singing at cutting up their +cabbages for the national luxury of _saurkraut_. + +At length was seen looming in the west, with all its steeples and domes, +the queen of the wilderness, Moscow the Magnificent--the most +frequently-burned of all cities, and, as Sir George observes, the most +_retaliatory_ on the burners--it having been burned to embers _four_ +times, and each time having seen the incendiary nation ruined. It must +be admitted, however, that the revenge, however sure, was slow, for it +seldom occurred in less than a couple of centuries!--Napoleon's fate +being the only instance of promptitude on this point. + +From Moscow to St Petersburg, a macadamised road of seven hundred versts +conveyed the traveller to the northern city of the Czar, where, on the +8th of October, he terminated a journey from Ochotsk, of about seven +thousand miles. In eight days from St Petersburg he reached Hamburg, and +in five days more arrived in London, having rounded the globe in a +period of nineteen months and twenty-six days! + +We have given an abstract of this work with the more satisfaction, that +it not merely supplies a certain knowledge of vast regions of which the +European world knows little; but that it gives a favourable view of the +condition, the habits, and the temper, of the multitudes of our fellow +men, spread over those immense spaces of the globe. Personally, of +course, a man of the official rank and individual intelligence of the +writer, might expect the hospitality of the Russian employes. But he +seems to have been met with general kindness--to have experienced no +injury, no obstacle, and no extortion; and, on the whole, having +exhibited the good sense which disregards the _inevitable_ annoyances of +all journeys in distant countries, to have escaped all the severer ones +which an ill-tempered traveller naturally brings upon himself. But the +feature of his volumes on which we place the still higher value, is the +honesty of his English spirit. He knows the value of his country; he +does justice to her principles; he gives the true view of her power; he +vindicates her intentions; and without depreciating the merits of +foreign nations, he pays a manly tribute to the truth, by doing deserved +honour to his own. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] _Narrative of an Overland Journey Round the World._ By Sir George +Simpson, Governor-in-Chief of the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories in +North America. + + + + +LETTERS ON THE TRUTHS CONTAINED IN POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS. + + +VI.--RELIGIOUS DELUSIONS: THE POSSESSED: WITCHCRAFT. + +Dear Archy,--The subjects about which I propose writing to you to-day +are, delusions of a religious nature;--the idea of being possessed,--the +grounds of the belief in witchcraft. With so much before me, I have no +room to waste. So, of the first, first. + +The powerful hold which the feeling of religion takes on our nature, at +once attests the truth of the sentiment, and warns us to be on our guard +against fanatical excesses. No subject can safely be permitted to have +exclusive possession of our thoughts, least of all the most absorbing +and exciting of any. + + "So--it will make us mad." + +It is evident that, with the majority, Providence has designed that +worldly cares should largely and wholesomely employ the mind, and +prevent inordinate craving after an indulgence in spiritual stimulation; +while minds of the highest order are diverted, by the active duties of +philanthropy, from any perilous excess of religious contemplation. + +Under the influence of constant and concentrated religious thought, not +only is the reason liable to give way--which is not our theme--but, +alternatively, the nervous system is apt to fall into many a form of +trance, the phenomena of which are mistaken by the ignorant for Divine +visitation. The weakest frame sinks into an insensibility profound as +death, in which he has visions of heaven and the angels. Another lies, +in half-waking trance, rapt in celestial contemplation and beatitude; +others are suddenly fixed in cataleptic rigidity; others, again, are +dashed upon the ground in convulsions. The impressive effect of these +seizures is heightened by their supervention in the midst of religious +exercises, and by the contagious and sympathetic influence through which +their spread is accelerated among the more excitable temperaments and +weaker members of large congregations. What chance have ignorant people +witnessing such attacks, or being themselves the subjects of them, of +escaping the persuasion that they mark the immediate agency of the Holy +Spirit? Or, to take ordinarily informed and sober-minded people,--what +would they think at seeing mixed up with this hysteric disturbance, +distinct proofs of extraordinary perceptive and anticipatory powers, +such as occasionally manifest themselves as parts of trance, to the +rational explanation of which they might not have the key? + +In the preceding letter, I have already exemplified, by the case of +Henry Engelbrecht, the occurrence of visions of hell and heaven during +the deepest state of trance. No doubt the poor ascetic implicitly +believed his whole life the reality of the scenes to which his +imagination had transported him. + +In a letter from the Earl of Shrewsbury to Ambrose Mark Phillips, Esq., +published in 1841, a very interesting account is given of two young +women who had lain for months or years in a state of religious +beatitude. Their condition, when they were exhibited, appears to have +been that of half-waking in trance; or, perhaps, a shade nearer the +lightest form of trance-sleep. To increase the force of the scene, they +appear to have exhibited some degree of trance-perceptive power. But, +without this, the mere aspect of such persons is wonderfully imposing. +If the pure spirit of Christianity finds a bright comment and +illustration in the Madonnas and Cherubim of Raffaelle, it seems to +shine out in still more truthful vividness from the brow of a young +person rapt in religious ecstasy. The hands clasped in prayer,--the +upturned eyes,--the expression of humble confidence and seraphic hope, +(displayed, let me suggest, on a beautiful face,) constitute a picture +of which, having witnessed it, I can never forget the force. Yet I knew +it was only a trance. So one knows that village churches are built by +common mechanics. Yet when we look over an extensive country, and see +the spire from its clump of trees rising over each hamlet, or over the +distant city its minster tower,--the images find an approving harmony in +our feelings, and seem to aid in establishing the genuineness and the +truth of the sentiment and the faith which have reared such expressive +symbols. + +In the two cases mentioned in Lord Shrewsbury's pamphlet, it is, +however, painful to observe that trick and artifice had been used to +bend them to the service of Catholicism. The poor women bore on their +hands and feet wounds, the supposed _spontaneous_ eruption of +delineations of the bleeding wounds of the crucifix, and, on the +forehead, the bloody marks of the crown of thorns. To convict the +imposture, the blood-stains from the wounds in the feet ran _upwards_ +towards the toes, to complete a _facsimile_ of the original, though the +poor girls were lying on their backs. The wounds, it is to be hoped, are +inflicted and kept fresh and active by means employed when the victims +are in the insensibility to pain, which commonly goes with trance. + +To comprehend the effects of religious excitement operating on masses, +we may inspect three pictures,--the revivals of modern times--the +fanatical delusions of the Cevennes--the behaviour of the +Convulsionnaires at the grave of the Abbe Paris. + +"I have seen," says M. Le Roi Sunderland, himself a preacher, [_Zion's +Watchman_, New York, Oct. 2, 1842,] "persons often 'lose their +strength,' as it is called, at camp-meetings, and other places of great +religious excitement; and not pious people alone, but those also who +were not professors of religion. In the spring of 1824, while performing +pastoral labour in Dennis, Massachusetts, I saw more than twenty people +affected in this way. Two young men, of the name of Crowell, came one +day to a prayer meeting. They were quite indifferent. I conversed with +them freely, but they showed no signs of penitence. From the meeting +they went to their shop, (they were shoemakers,) to finish some work +before going to the meeting in the evening. On seating themselves they +were both struck perfectly stiff. I was immediately sent for, and found +them sitting paralysed [he means cataleptic] on their benches, with +their work in their hands, unable to get up, or to move at all. I have +seen scores of persons affected the same way. I have seen persons lie in +this state forty-eight hours. At such times they are unable to converse, +and are sometimes unconscious of what is passing round them. At the same +time they say they are in a happy state of mind." + +These persons, it is evident, were thrown in to one of the forms of +trance through their minds being powerfully worked upon; with which +cause the influence of mutual sympathy with what they saw around them, +and perhaps some physical agency, co-operated. + +The following extract from the same journal portrays another kind of +nervous seizure, allied to the former, and produced by the same cause, +as it was manifested at the great revival, some forty years ago, at +Kentucky and Tennessee. + +"The convulsions were commonly called 'the jerks.' A writer, (M'Neman,) +quoted by Mr Power, (Essay on the Influence of the Imagination over the +Nervous System,) gives this account of their course and progress:-- + +"'At first appearance these meetings, exhibited nothing to the spectator +but a scene of confusion, that could scarcely be put into language. They +were generally opened with a sermon, near the close of which there would +be an unusual outcry, some bursting out into loud ejaculations of +prayer, &c. + +"'The rolling exercise consisted in being cast down in a violent manner, +doubled with the head and feet together, or stretched in a prostrate, +manner, turning swiftly over like a dog. Nothing in nature could better +represent the jerks, than for one to goad another alternately on every +side with a piece of red-hot iron. The exercise commonly began in the +head, which would fly backwards and forwards, and from side to side, +with a quick jolt, which the person would naturally labour to suppress, +but in vain. He must necessarily go on as he was stimulated, whether +with a violent dash on the ground, and bounce from place to place, like +a foot-ball; or hopping round with head, limbs, and trunk, twitching +and jolting in every direction, as if they must inevitably fly asunder,' +&c." + +The following sketch is from _Dow's Journal_. "In the year 1805 he +preached at Knoxville, Tennessee, before the governor, when some hundred +and fifty persons, among whom were a number of Quakers, had the jerks." + +"I have seen all denominations of religions exercised by the jerks, +gentleman and lady, black and white, young and old, without exception. I +passed a meeting-house, where I observed the undergrowth had been cut +away for camp meetings, and from fifty to a hundred saplings were left, +breast high, on purpose for the people who were jerked to hold by. I +observed where they had held on, they had kicked up the earth, as a +horse stamping flies." + +Every one has heard of the extraordinary scenes which took place in the +Cevennes at the close of the seventeenth century. + +It was towards the end of the year 1688 a report was first heard, of a +gift of prophecy which had shown itself among the persecuted followers +of the Reformation, who, in the south of France, had betaken themselves +to the mountains. The first instance was said to have occurred in the +family of a glass-dealer, of the name of Du Serre, well known as the +most zealous Calvinist of the neighbourhood, which was a solitary spot +in Dauphine, near Mount Peyra. In the enlarging circle of enthusiasts, +Gabriel Astier and Isabella Vincent made themselves first conspicuous. +Isabella, a girl of sixteen years of age, from Dauphine, who was in the +service of a peasant, and tended sheep, began in her sleep to preach and +prophesy, and the Reformers came from far and near to hear her. An +advocate, of the name of Gerlan, describes the following scene which he +had witnessed. At his request she had admitted him, and a good many +others, after nightfall, to a meeting at a chateau in the neighbourhood. +She there disposed herself upon a bed, shut her eyes, and went to sleep; +in her sleep she chanted in a low tone the Commandments and a psalm; +after a short respite she began to preach in a louder voice, not in her +own dialect, but in good French, which hitherto she had not used. The +theme was an exhortation to obey God rather than man. Sometimes she +spoke so quickly as to be hardly intelligible. At certain of her pauses, +she stopped to collect herself. She accompanied her words with +gesticulations. Gerlan found her pulse quiet, her arm not rigid, but +relaxed, as natural. After an interval, her countenance put on a mocking +expression, and she began anew her exhortation, which was now mixed with +ironical reflections upon the Church of Rome. She then suddenly stopped, +continuing asleep. It was in vain they stirred her. When her arms were +lifted and let go, they dropped unconsciously. As several now went away, +whom her silence rendered impatient, she said in a low tone, but just as +if she was awake, "Why do you go away? Why do not you wait till I am +ready?" And then she delivered another ironical discourse against the +Catholic Church, which she closed with a prayer. + +When Boucha, the intendant of the district, heard of the performances of +Isabella Vincent, he had her brought before him. She replied to his +interrogatories, that people had often told her that she preached in her +sleep, but that she did not herself believe a word of it. As the +slightness of her person made her appear younger than she really was, +the intendant merely sent her to an hospital at Grenoble, where, +notwithstanding that she was visited by persons of the Reformed +persuasion, there was an end of her preaching,--she became a Catholic! + +Gabriel Astier, who had been a young labourer, likewise from Dauphine, +went in the capacity of a preacher and prophet into the valley of +Bressac, in the Vivarais. He had infected his family: his father, +mother, elder brother, and sweetheart, followed his example, and took to +prophesying. Gabriel, before he preached, used to fall into a kind of +stupor in which he lay rigid. After delivering his sermon, he would +dismiss his auditors with a kiss, and the words: "My brother, or my +sister, I impart to you the Holy Ghost." Many believed that they had +thus received the Holy Ghost from Astier, being taken with the same +seizure. During the period of the discourse, first one, then another, +would fall down; some described themselves afterwards as having felt +first a weakness and trembling through the whole frame, and an impulse +to yawn and stretch their arms, then they fell convulsed and foaming at +the mouth. Others carried the contagion home with them, and first +experienced its effects, days, weeks, months afterwards. They +believed--nor is it wonderful they did so--that they had received the +Holy Ghost. + +Not less curious were the seizures of the Convulsionnaires at the grave +of the Abbe Paris, in the year 1727. These Jansenist visionaries used to +collect in the church-yard of St Medard, round the grave of the deposed +and deceased Deacon, and before long the reputation of the place for +working miracles getting about, they fell in troops into convulsions. + +Their state had more analogy to that of the Jerkers already described. +But it was different. They required, to gratify an internal impulse or +feeling, that the most violent blows should be inflicted upon them at +the pit of the stomach. Carre de Montgeron mentions, that being himself +an enthusiast in the matter, he had inflicted the blows required with an +iron instrument, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds, with a round +head. And as a convulsionary lady complained that he struck too lightly +to relieve the feeling of depression at her stomach, he gave her sixty +blows with all his force. It would not do, and she begged to have the +instrument used by a tall, strong man, who stood by in the crowd. The +spasmodic tension of her muscles must have been enormous; for she +received one hundred blows, delivered with such force that the wall +shook behind her. She thanked the man for his benevolent aid, and +contemptuously censured De Montgeron for his weakness, or want of faith +and timidity. It was, indeed, time for issuing the mandate, which, as +wit read it, ran: + + "De par le roi--Defense a Dieu, + De faire miracle en ce lieu." + +Turn we now to another subject:--the possessed in the middle ages,--What +was their physiological condition? What was really meant then by being +possessed? I mean, what were the symptoms of the affection, and how are +they properly to be explained? The inquiry will throw further light upon +the true relations of other phenomena we have already looked at. + +We have seen that Schwedenborg thought that he was in constant +communication with the spiritual world; but felt convinced, and avowed, +that though he saw his visitants without and around him, they reached +him first inwardly, and communicated with his understanding; and thence +consciously, and outwardly, with his senses. But it would be a +misapplication of the term to say that he was possessed by these +spirits. + +We remember that Socrates had his demon; and it should be mentioned as a +prominent feature in visions generally, that their subject soon +identifies one particular imaginary being as his guide and informant, to +whom he applies for what knowledge he wishes. In the most exalted states +of trance-waking, the guide or demon is continually referred to with +profound respect by the entranced person. Now, was Socrates, and are +patients of the class I have alluded to, possessed? No! the meaning of +the term is evidently not yet hit. + +Then there are persons who permanently fancy themselves other beings +than they are, and act as such. + +In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, there prevailed in parts of +Europe a seizure, which was called the wolf-sickness. Those affected +with it held themselves to be wild beasts, and betook themselves to the +forests. One of these, who was brought before De Lancre, at Bordeaux, in +the beginning of the sixteenth century, was a young man of Besancon. He +avowed himself to be huntsman of the forest lord, his invisible master. +He believed, that through the power of his master, he had been +transformed into a wolf; that he hunted in the forest as such, and that +he was often accompanied by a bigger wolf, whom he suspected to be the +master he served--with more details of the same kind. The persons thus +affected were called Wehrwolves. They enjoyed in those days the +alternative of being exorcised or executed. + +Arnold relates in his history of church and of heresy, how there was a +young man in Koenigsberg, well educated, the natural son of a priest, who +had the impression, that he was met near a crucifix in the wayside by +seven angels, who revealed to him that he was to represent God the +Father on earth, to drive all evil out of the world, &c. The poor +fellow, after pondering upon this impression a long time, issued a +circular commencing thus,-- + +"We, John Albrecht, Adelgreif, Syrdos, Amata, Kanemata, Kilkis, +Mataldis, Schmalkilimundis, Sabrundis, Elioris, Overarch High-priest, +and Emperor, Prince of Peace of the whole world, Overarch King of the +Holy Kingdom of Heaven, Judge of the living and of the dead, God and +Father, in whose divinity Christ will come on the last day to judge the +world, Lord of all Lords, King of all Kings," &c. + +He was thereupon thrown into prison at Koenigsberg, regarded as a most +frightful heretic, and every means were used by the clergy to reclaim +him. To all their entreaties, however, he listened only with a smile of +pity, "that they should think of reclaiming God the Father." He was then +put to the torture; and as what he endured made no alteration in his +convictions, he was condemned to have his tongue torn out with red-hot +tongs, to be cut in four quarters, and then burned under the gallows. He +wept bitterly, not at his own fate, but that they should pronounce such +a sentence on the Deity. The executioner was touched with pity, and +entreated him to make a final recantation. But he persisted that he was +God the Father, whether they pulled his tongue out by the roots or not; +and so he was executed! + +The Wehrwolves, and this poor creature, in what state were they? they +were merely insane. Then we must look further. + +Gmelin, in the first volume of his Contributions to Anthropology, +narrates, that in the year 1789, a German lady, under his observation, +had daily paroxysms, in which she believed herself to be, and acted the +part of a French emigrant. She had been in distress of mind through the +absence of a person she was attached to, and he was somehow implicated +in the scenes of the French revolution. After an attack of fever and +delirium, the complaint regulated itself, and took the form of a daily +fit of trance-waking. When the time for the fit approached, she stopped +in her conversation, and ceased to answer when spoken to; she then +remained a few minutes sitting perfectly still, her eyes fixed on the +carpet before her. Then, in evident uneasiness, she began to move her +head backwards and forwards, to sigh, and to pass her fingers across her +eye-brows. This lasted a minute, then she raised her eyes, looked once +or twice around with timidity and embarrassment, then began to talk in +French; when she would describe all the particulars of her escape from +France, and, assuming the manner of a French woman, talk purer and +better accented French than she had been known to be capable of talking +before, correct her friends when they spoke incorrectly, but delicately +and with a comment on the German rudeness of laughing at the bad +pronunciation of strangers; and if led herself to speak or read German, +she used a French accent, and spoke it ill; and the like. + +Now, suppose this lady, instead of thus acting, when the paroxysms +supervened, had cast herself on the ground, had uttered bad language and +blasphemy, and had worn a sarcastic and malignant expression of +countenance,--in striking contrast with her ordinary character and +behaviour, and _alternating with it_,--and you have the picture and the +reality of a person "possessed." + +A person, "possessed," is one affected with the form of trance-waking +called double consciousness, with the addition of being deranged when in +the paroxysm, and then, out of the suggestions of her own fancy, or +catching at the interpretation put on her conduct by others, believing +herself tenanted by the fiend. + +We may quite allowably heighten the above picture by supposing that the +person in her trance, in addition to being mad, might have displayed +some of the perceptive powers occasionally developed in trance; and so +have evinced, in addition to her demoniacal ferocity, an "uncanny" +knowledge of things and persons. To be candid, Archy, time was, when I +should myself have had my doubts in such a case. + +We have by this time had intercourse enough with spirits and demons to +prepare us for the final subject of witchcraft. + +The superstition of witchcraft stretches back into remote antiquity, and +has many roots. In Europe it is partly of Druidical origin. The +Druidesses were part priestesses, part shrewd old ladies, who dealt in +magic and medicine. They were called _all-rune_, all-knowing. There was +some touch of classical superstition mingled in the stream which was +flowing down to us;--so an edict of a council of Treves, in the year +1310, has this injunction: "Nulla mulierum se nocturnis horis equitare +cum Diana propitiatur; haec enim doemoniaca est illusio." But the main +source from which we derived this superstition, is the East, and +traditions and facts incorporated in our religion. There were only +wanted the ferment of thought of the fifteenth century, the vigour, +energy, ignorance, enthusiasm, and faith of those days, and the papal +denunciation of witchcraft by the famous Bull of Innocent the VIII. in +1459, to give fury to the delusion. And from this time for three +centuries, the flames, at which more than 100,000 victims perished, cast +a lurid light over Europe. + +One ceases to wonder at this ugly stain in the page of history, when one +considers all things fairly. + +The Enemy of mankind, bodily, with horns, hoofs, and tail, was believed +to lurk round every corner, bent upon your spiritual, if not bodily +harm. The witch and the sorcerer were not possessed by him against their +will, but went out of their way to solicit his alliance, and to offer to +forward his views for their own advantage, or to gratify their +malignity. The cruel punishments for a crime so monstrous were mild, +compared with the practice of our own penal code fifty or sixty years +ago against second-class offences. And for the startling bigotry of the +judges, which appears the most discreditable part of the matter, why, +how could they alone be free from the prejudices of their age? Yet they +did strange things. + +At Lindheim, Horst reports, on one occasion six women were implicated in +a charge of having disinterred the body of a child to make a +witch-broth. As they happened to be innocent of the deed, they underwent +the most cruel tortures before they would confess it. At length they saw +their cheapest bargain was to admit the crime, and be simply burned +alive and have it over. So they did so. But the husband of one of them +procured an official examination of the grave; when the child's body was +found in its coffin safe and sound. What said the Inquisitor? "This is +indeed a proper piece of devil's work; no, no, I am not to be taken in +by such a gross and obvious imposture. Luckily the women have already +confessed the crime, and burned they must and shall be in honour of the +Holy Trinity, which has commanded the extirpation of sorcerers and +witches." The six women were burned alive accordingly. + +It was hard upon them, because they were innocent. But the regular +witches, as times went, hardly deserved any better fate--considering, I +mean, their honest and straight-forward intentions of doing that which +they believed to be the most desperate wrong achievable. Many there were +who sought to be initiated in the black art. They were re-baptized with +the support of responsible witch sponsors, abjured Christ, and entered +to the best of their belief into a compact with the devil; and forthwith +commenced a course of bad works, poisoning and bewitching men and +cattle, and the like, or trying to do so. + +One feature transpired in these details, that is merely pathetic, not +horrifying or disgusting. + +The little children of course talked witchcraft, and you may fancy, +Archy, what charming gossip it must have made. Then the poor little +things were sadly wrought on by the tales they told. And they fell into +trances and had visions shaped by their heated fancies. + +A little maid, of twelve years of age, used to fall into fits of sleep, +and afterwards she told her parents, and _the judge_, how an old woman +and her daughter, riding on a broom-stick, had come and taken her out +with them. The daughter sat foremost, the old woman behind, the little +maid between them. They went away through the roof of the house, over +the adjoining houses and the town gate, to a village some way off. There +they went down a chimney of a cottage into a room, where sat a tall +black man and twelve women. They eat and drank. The black man filled +their glasses from a can, and gave each of the women a handful of gold. +She herself had received none; but she had eaten and drank with them. + +A list of persons burned in Salzburg for participation in witchcraft +between the years 1627 and 1629 in an outbreak of this frenzy, which had +its origin in an epidemic among the cattle, enumerates children of 14, +12, 11, 10, 9, years of age; which in some degree reconciles one to the +fate of the fourteen canons, four gentlemen of the choir, two young men +of rank, a fat old lady of rank, the wife of a burgomaster, a +counsellor, the fattest burgess of Wartzburg, together with his wife, +the handsomest woman in the city, and a midwife of the name of +Schiekelte, with whom (according to an N.B. in the original report) the +whole mischief originated. To amateurs of executions in those days the +fatness of the victim was evidently a point of consideration, as is +shown by the specifications of that quality in some of the victims in +the above list. Were men devils _then_? By no means; there existed then +as now upon earth, worth, honour, truth, benevolence, gentleness. But +there were other ingredients, too, from which the times are not yet +purged. A century ago people did not know--do they now?--that vindictive +punishment is a crime; that the only allowable purpose of punishment is +to prevent the recurrence of the offence; and that restraint, isolation, +employment, instruction, are the extreme and only means towards that end +which reason and humanity justify. Alas, for human nature! Some +centuries hence, the first half of the nineteenth century will be +charged with having manifested no admission of principle in advance of a +period, the judicial crimes of which make the heart shudder. The old +lady witches had, of course, much livelier ideas than the innocent +children, on the subject of their intercourse with the devils. + +At Mora, in Sweden, in 1669, of many who were put to the torture and +executed, seventy-two women agreed in the following avowal, that they +were in the habit of meeting at a place called Blocula. That on their +calling out "Come forth!" the Devil used to appear to them in a gray +coat, red breeches, gray stockings, with a red beard, and a peaked hat +with party-coloured feathers on his head. He then enforced upon them, +not without blows, that they must bring him, at nights, their own and +other peoples' children, stolen for the purpose. They travel through the +air to Blocula either on beasts or on spits, or broomsticks. When they +have many children with them, they rig on an additional spar to lengthen +the back of the goat or their broom-stick that the children may have +room to sit. At Blocula they sign their name in blood and are baptized. +The Devil is a humorous, pleasant gentleman; but his table is coarse +enough, which makes the children often sick on their way home, the +product being the so-called witch-butter found in the fields. When the +Devil is larky, he solicits the witches to dance round him on their +brooms, which he suddenly pulls from under them, and uses to beat them +with till they are black and blue. He laughs at this joke till his sides +shake again. Sometimes he is in a more gracious mood, and plays to them +lovely airs upon the harp; and occasionally sons and daughters are born +to the Devil, which take up their residence at Blocula. + +I will add an outline of the history, furnished or corroborated by her +voluntary confession, of a lady witch, nearly the last executed for this +crime. She was, at the time of her death, seventy years of age, and had +been many years sub-prioress of the convent of Unterzell, near +Wartzburg. + +Maria Renata took the veil at nineteen years of age, against her +inclination, having previously been initiated in the mysteries of +witchcraft, which she continued to practise for fifty years under the +cloak of punctual attendance to discipline and pretended piety. She was +long in the station of sub-prioress, and would, for her capacity, have +been promoted to the rank of prioress, had she not betrayed a certain +discontent with the ecclesiastic life, a certain contrariety to her +superiors, something half expressed only of inward dissatisfaction. +Renata had not ventured to let any one about the convent into her +confidence, and she remained free from suspicion, notwithstanding that, +from time to time, some of the nuns, either from the herbs she mixed +with their food, or through sympathy, had strange seizures, of which +some died. Renata became at length extravagant and unguarded in her +witch propensities, partly from long security, partly from desire of +stronger excitement; made noises in the dormitory, and uttered shrieks +in the garden; went at nights into the cells of the nuns to pinch and +torment them, to assist her in which she kept a considerable supply of +cats. The removal of the keys of the cells counteracted this annoyance; +but a still more efficient means was a determined blow on the part of a +nun, struck at the aggressor with the penitential scourge one night, on +the morning following which Renata was observed to have a black eye and +cut face. This event awakened suspicion against Renata. Then, one of the +nuns, who was much esteemed, declared, believing herself upon her +death-bed, that, "as she shortly expected to stand before her Maker, +Renata was uncanny, that she had often at nights been visibly tormented +by her, and that she warned her to desist from this course." General +alarm arose, and apprehension of Renata's arts; and one of the nuns, who +previously had had fits, now became possessed, and in the paroxysms told +the wildest tales against Renata. It is only wonderful how the +sub-prioress contrived to keep her ground many years against these +suspicions and incriminations. She adroitly put aside the insinuations +of the nun as imaginary or of calumnious intention, and treated +witchcraft and possession of the Devil as things which enlightened +people no longer believed in. As, however, five more of the nuns, either +taking the infection from the first, or influenced by the arts of +Renata, became possessed of devils, and unanimously attacked Renata, the +superiors could no longer avoid making a serious investigation of the +charges. Renata was confined in a cell alone, whereupon the six devils +screeched in chorus at being deprived of their friend. She had begged to +be allowed to take her papers with her; but this being refused, and +thinking herself detected, she at once avowed to her confessor and the +superiors, that she was a witch, had learned witchcraft out of the +convent, and had bewitched the six nuns. They determined to keep the +matter secret, and to attempt the conversion of Renata. And as the nuns +still continued possessed, they despatched her to a remote convent. +Here, under a show of outward piety, she still went on with her attempts +to realise witchcraft, and the nuns remained possessed. It was decided +at length to give Renata over to the civil power. She was accordingly +condemned to be burned alive; but in mitigation of punishment her head +was first struck off. Four of the possessed nuns gradually recovered +with clerical assistance; the other two remained deranged. Renata was +executed on the 21st January 1749. + +Renata stated, in her voluntary confession, that she had often at night +been carried bodily to witch-Sabbaths; in one of which she was first +presented to the Prince of Darkness, when she abjured God and the Virgin +at the same time. Her name, with the alteration of Maria into Emma, was +written in a black book, and she herself was stamped on the back as the +Devil's property, in return for which she received the promise of +seventy years of life, and all she might wish for. She stated that she +had often, at night, gone into the cellar of the _chateau_ and drank the +best wine; in the shape of a swine had walked on the convent walls; on +the bridge had milked the cows as they passed over; and several times +had mingled with the actors in the theatre in London. + +A question unavoidably presents itself--How came witchcraft to be in so +great a degree the province of women? There existed sorcerers, no doubt, +but they were comparatively few. Persons of either sex and of all ages +indiscriminately interested themselves in the black art; but the +professors and regular practitioners were almost exclusively women, and +principally old women. The following seem to have been some of the +causes. Women were confined to household toils; their minds had not +adequate occupation: many young unmarried women, without duties, would +lack objects of sufficient interest for their yearnings; many of the old +ones, despised, ill treated probably, soured with the world, rendered +spiteful and vindictive, took even more readily to a resource which +roused and gave employment to their imaginations, and promised to +gratify their wishes. It is evident, too, that the supposed sex of the +Devil helped him here. The old women had an idea of making much of him, +and of coaxing, and getting round the black gentleman. But beside all +this, there lies in the physical temperament of the other sex a peculiar +susceptibility of derangement of the nervous system, a predisposition to +all the varieties of trance, with its prolific sources of mental +illusion--all tending, it is to be observed, to advance the belief and +enlarge the pretensions of witchcraft. + +The form of trance which specially dominated in witchcraft was +trance-sleep with visions. The graduates and candidates in the faculty +sought to fall into trances, in the dreams of which they realised their +waking aspirations. They entertained no doubt, however, that their +visits to the Devil and their nocturnal exploits were genuine; and they +seem to have wilfully shut their eyes to the possibility of their having +never left their beds. For, with a skill that should have betrayed to +them the truth, they were used to prepare a witch-broth to promote in +some way their nightly expeditions. And this they composed not only of +materials calculated to prick on the imagination, but of substantial +narcotics, too--the medical effects of which they no doubt were +acquainted with. They contemplated evidently producing a sort of stupor. + +The professors of witchcraft had thus made the singular step of +artificially producing a sort of trance, with the object of availing +themselves of one of its attendant phenomena. The Thamans in Siberia do +the like to this day to obtain the gift of prophecy. And it is more than +probable that the Egyptian and Delphic priest habitually availed +themselves of some analogous procedure. Modern mesmerism is in part an +effort in the same direction. + +Without at all comprehending the real character of the power called into +play, mankind seems to have found out by a "mera palpatio," by +instinctive experiment and lucky groping in the dark, that in the stupor +of trance the mind occasionally stumbles upon odds and ends of strange +knowledge and prescience. The phenomenon was never for an instant +suspected of lying in the order of nature. It was construed, to suit the +occasion and the times, either into divine inspiration or diabolic +whisperings. But it was always supernatural. So the ignorant old +lemon-seller in Zschokke's Selbstschau thought his "hidden wisdom" a +mystical wonder; while the enlightened and accomplished narrator of +their united stories, stands alone, in striking advance ever of his own +day, when he unassumingly and diffidently puts forward his seer-gift as +_a simple contribution to psychical knowledge_. And thus, my proposed +task accomplished, my dear Archy, finally yours, &c. + + MAC DAVUS. + + + + +THE HYMN OF KING OLAF THE SAINT. + +ALTERED FROM THE ICELANDIC. + + + Swend, king of all, + In Olaf's hall + Now sits in state on high; + Whilst up in heaven + Amidst the shriven + Sits Olaf's majesty. + For not in cell + Does our hero dwell, + But in realms of light for ever: + As a ransom'd saint + To heal our plaint, + Be glory to thee, gold-giver! + + Of raptures there + He has won his share, + All cleansed from taint of sin; + For on earth prepared, + No toil he spared + That holy place to win. + That he hath won + Near God's dear Son + Fast by the holy river-- + Oh, such as thine + May the end be mine; + Be glory to thee, gold-giver! + + His sacred form + Unscathed by worm, + And clear as the hour he died, + Lies at this day + Where good men pray + At morn and at eventide. + His nails and his hair + Are fresh and fair, + With his yellow locks still growing; + His cheek as red, + And his flesh not dead, + Though the blood hath ceased from flowing. + + If you watch by night, + In the dim twilight + You may hear a requiem singing; + And the people hear + Above his bier + A small bell clearly ringing. + And if ye wait + Until midnight late, + You may hear the great bell toll: + But none can tell + Who tolls that bell + If it sounds for Olaf's soul. + With tapers clear, + Which Christ holds dear, + O'er the corpse so still reclining, + By day and night + Is the altar light + And the cross of the Saviour shining. + For our King did so, + And all men know + That washed from sin and shriven, + All free from taint, + A ransom'd saint, + He dwells with the saints in heaven. + + And thousands come, + The deaf and the dumb, + To the tomb of our monarch here-- + The sick and the blind + Of every kind + They throng to the holy bier. + With heads all bare + They breathe their prayer + As they kneel on the flinty ground: + God hears their sighs, + And the sick men rise + All whole, and healed, and sound. + + Then to Olaf pray, + To spare thy day + From wrath, and wrong, and harm; + To save thy land + From the spoiler's hand, + And the fell invader's arm. + God's man is he, + To deal to thee + What is ask'd in a lowly spirit-- + Let thy prayer not cease, + And wealth, and peace, + And a blessing thou shalt inherit. + + For prayers are good, + If before the rood + Thy beads thou tellest praying; + If thou tellest on, + Forgetting none + Of the saints who with God are staying. + + W. E. A. + + + + +FOUR SONNETS BY ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING. + +TWO SKETCHES. + + + I. + + The shadow of her face upon the wall + May take your memory to the perfect Greek; + But when you front her, you would call the cheek + Too full, sir, for your models, if withal + That bloom it wears could leave you critical, + And that smile reaching toward the rosy streak:-- + For one who smiles so, has no need to speak, + To lead your thoughts along, as steed to stall! + A smile that turns the sunny side o' the heart + On all the world, as if herself did win + By what she lavished on an open mart:-- + Let no man call the liberal sweetness, sin,-- + While friends may whisper, as they stand apart, + "Methinks there's still some warmer place within." + + + II. + + Her azure eyes, dark lashes hold in fee: + Her fair superfluous ringlets, without check, + Drop after one another down her neck; + As many to each cheek as you might see + Green leaves to a wild rose! This sign, outwardly, + And a like woman-covering seems to deck + Her inner nature! For she will not fleck + World's sunshine with a finger. Sympathy + Must call her in Love's name! and then, I know, + She rises up, and brightens, as she should, + And lights her smile for comfort, and is slow + In nothing of high-hearted fortitude. + To smell this flower, come near it; such can grow + In that sole garden where Christ's brow dropped blood. + + + MOUNTAINEER AND POET. + + The simple goatherd who treads places high, + Beholding there his shadow (it is wist) + Dilated to a giant's on the mist, + Esteems not his own stature larger by + The apparent image; but more patiently + Strikes his staff down beneath his clenching fist-- + While the snow-mountains lift their amethyst + And sapphire crowns of splendour, far and nigh, + Into the air around him. Learn from hence + Meek morals, all ye poets that pursue + Your way still onward up to eminence! + Ye are not great, because creation drew + Large revelations round your earliest sense, + Nor bright, because God's glory shines for you. + + + THE POET. + + The poet hath the child's sight in his breast, + And sees all _new_. What oftenest he has viewed, + He views with the first glory. Fair and good + Pall never on him, at the fairest, best, + But stand before him, holy, and undressed + In week-day false conventions; such as would + Drag other men down from the altitude + Of primal types, too early dispossessed. + Why, God would tire of all his heavens as soon + As thou, O childlike, godlike poet! did'st + Of daily and nightly sights of sun and moon! + And therefore hath He set thee in the midst + Where men may hear thy wonder's ceaseless tune, + And praise His world for ever as thou bidst. + + + + +CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE DECLINING OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE. + +(BEING A FEW PAGES FROM MY EASTERN DIARY). + + +----At half-past seven in the evening, we left Smyrna by the Scamandre, +a French government steamer, and were soon gliding over a sea smooth as +glass. The soft tints of the twilight spread gradually around us, and to +a beautiful day there succeeded one of those marvellous nights, during +which one cannot bring one's-self to the determination of retiring to +rest. + +The dawn of day surprised me on deck. In the morning we neared the land, +which presented to our view a desert plain, covered with dwarf oak. This +was the site of ancient Troy; we were coasting near those famous fields, +_ubi Troja fuit_; that stream which was throwing itself before our eyes +into the sea, was formerly called the "Simois;" those two hillocks which +we saw upon the coast, were the tombs of Hector and Patroclus; that huge +blue mountain which in the distance raised towards the sky its three +peaks covered with snow, was Ida; and behind us, from the midst of the +sparkling waves, rose the island of Tenedos. All conversation between +the passengers from many nations had long since ceased, and I +contemplated in silence that grim desert, which, at Eton, I had dreamed +of as full of movement and sound, and that calm sea which I had so often +figured to myself as covered with the ships of Agamemnon, of Ulysses, +and of Achilles the + + "Impiger, iracundus, inexorabilis, acer." + +At mid-day we entered the Dardanelles, and several hours afterwards, we +cast anchor between Sestos and Abydos, before a small white town, +containing no remarkable objects. Sestos and Abydos, which it must be +owned would not be by any means celebrated, were it not for the +enterprises which cost Leander his life and Lord Byron an ague, are two +hamlets, which, like the greater portion of Turkish villages, offer in +no shape whatever what it is the fashion to term the Oriental type. They +are composed of an assemblage of rose-coloured houses, whose large red +roofs, seen through the verdure and flowers, call to one's mind the +description of a Chinese village. + +Upon its arrival, the Scamandre was immediately surrounded by a +multitude of caicks filled with bearded Turks, veiled women, and various +coloured bales. Upon deck rose a deafening Babel of voices,--the sailors +swore, the women screamed, and the porters fought, until at length quiet +was restored, and one hundred and eighty-six new Mussulman passengers +came on board the steamer. Amid the caicks ranged along the sides of the +vessel, was one much more richly freighted than the rest; the traveller +to whom it belonged was a young Arab, who, standing on a pile of bales, +domineered over his boatmen by several feet. His white garments set off +to advantage his dark complexion; and a cloak of black wool, profusely +embroidered with gold lace, drew upon him the eyes of all. I had seldom, +if ever, beheld a head more beautiful or more expressive than that of +the young man. His large black eyes were full of intelligence, and in +his bearing was a natural nobility and pride. As long as the confusion, +described above, continued, he directed his boatmen to keep at a +distance, but when all were embarked, and the Scamandre was ready to +start, he hailed the vessel, and having mounted the side-ladders, gave +his hand to six veiled women in succession, whose long white dominos +prevented the spectators from even guessing at their age or beauty. The +young man, once on board, conducted his odalisques to a fore-cabin, +placed a hideous negro at the door as sentinel, and returned immediately +to the deck, where another negro presented him with a narguileh (Turkish +water-pipe). + +Nothing can less resemble our regular fortifications than the fort of +Gallipoli, (before which we soon after passed,) and the other castles of +the Dardanelles, which ought to render Constantinople the most +impregnable place in the world (from the sea.) The forts are large +buildings of a dazzling white colour, perforated with port-holes, +similar to those belonging to a ship of war, and mounted with old guns, +the greater portion of which are without carriages, and served, +ordinarily, by a single artillery-man, assisted in time of war by three +or four peasants. In the present century, however, these batteries have +shown their prowess, and against our own countrymen too. During the +month of February 1807, the British government, justly irritated at the +increasing influence that the French ambassador, Count Sebastiani, was +obtaining at the Ottoman court, despatched Admiral Sir John Duckworth, +in command of a squadron, with orders to bombard, if necessary, the +Seraglio itself. Unfortunately, Sir John Duckworth's plan of acting was +exactly contrary to what would have been our gallant Nelson's in the +same position. After having passed without difficulty before the then +disarmed castles of the Dardanelles, after having burned the Ottoman +fleet off Gallipoli, while the crews were peaceably celebrating on shore +the feast of Courban-Beiram, Sir John presented himself off +Constantinople, and threatened to bombard that city, should the Sultan +refuse to accept the conditions he offered, at the same time he allowed +his Imperial Highness two days to consider the terms; Nelson would have +allowed as many hours only. The folly of Admiral Duckworth's conduct +fully shown in the sequel, for, at the conclusion of the forty-eight +hours, the approaches to Stamboul and Galata were bristling--thanks to +the delay accorded, and to the exertions of the French ambassador--with +twelve hundred pieces of cannon; while, at the same time, orders having +been sent to the castles of the Dardanelles to mount their batteries, +the British squadron was hemmed in on all sides, as if by enchantment. +The besieged now became the aggressors, and there soon remained to +Admiral Duckworth no other resource than to weigh anchor and get away as +fast as possible, which he accordingly did. The batteries of the +Dardanelles were now, however, prepared for him. A most destructive fire +was opened upon the ill-fated fleet: two corvettes were sunk off +Gallipoli; the Admiral's flag-ship, the Royal George, lost her mainmast; +a huge marble ball, weighing eight hundred pounds, swept away a quantity +of hands from the lower deck of the Standard, while many officers and +seamen wore severely wounded. It must be here observed, that the +batteries of the Dardanelles owed much of the murderous effect of their +cannonading to the skill of eight French engineer officers, whom Count +Sebastiani, profiting by the delay accorded by Admiral Duckworth to the +Sultan, had despatched to the castles. + +These historical reminiscences did not prevent my thoughts occasionally +reverting to the six odalisques, who formed the suite of the young Arab +on board. Ever since their arrival, I had been reflecting that in all +probability never would so excellent an opportunity offer itself of +penetrating the secrets of a Mussulman harem, and of assuring myself of +the vaunted beauty of the mysterious women of Asia. As soon as we were +again in motion, I began to watch the black Argus to whose guard the +fair houris were intrusted. For more than an hour I lurked without +success about the fore-hatchway, for, faithful to his trust, the slave +was lying at the threshold of the door that closed upon his young +mistresses; and I was on the point of losing all patience, when I beheld +him suddenly rise and mount rapidly on deck. He had no sooner +disappeared than I glided into his place, and, having applied my eye to +a large chink in the door, cast a most indiscreet glance into the cabin. +In front of me two women were seated upon their heels, one of them had +thrown aside her veil; and I was gazing in admiration upon a pale but +beautiful face, set off by two immense black and brilliant eyes, when +suddenly I heard behind me the sound of hurried steps. It was the negro +returning to his post, who, on perceiving me, began to cry out most +lustily. Having no desire to commence a contest with him, I proceeded +to mount the hatchway and gain the deck. + +The exasperated slave, however, followed me, and hurrying to his master, +proceeded to inform him of my escapade, pointing at the same time to me. +Two old Turks leaped immediately to their feet with fury depicted on +their features; and one of them placed his hand upon the hilt of his +cangiar, and pronounced in a voice half-choked with passion the word +"Ghiaour," (infidel): in answer to which, I politely told him, (as I was +a good Turkish scholar,) to mind his own business, and that I was rather +inclined to consider him the greater infidel of the two. He looked both +surprised and vexed at this, but did not attempt to retort. As to the +young Arab, he proved himself to be a man of sense; for, contenting +himself with smiling at his infuriated attendant, he descended to the +cabin of his odalisques, from whence he did not emerge during the +remainder of our voyage. I did not again see him, and never knew who was +the Mussulman, so handsome and at the same time so little fanatical. + +The strait through which we had navigated all day, gradually widened as +we advanced; the shores as they receded were covered with opal tints; +the vessel began to roll, and we entered the sea of Marmora. At sunset +the Mussulmans with whom the deck was crowded collected in groups, and +devoutly said their evening prayer. Their countenances were wrapped in +deep devotion, and they appeared to take no notice of the satirical +smiles, which the strangeness of their attitudes called forth from +several unreflecting travellers, who, by wanting in respect for the +usages of the countries through which they were passing, lowered +themselves immensely in the estimation of the inhabitants. The +irritation excited by the ill-timed railleries of such foolish persons, +is no doubt one of the chief causes of the hatred in which Christians +are held in Turkey. Surely nothing could be less calculated to excite +mockery, than the sight of the Mussulman travellers at their evening +devotions; besides, be it had in mind, that upon this Christian vessel, +scarcely a Christian perhaps was thinking of his God, while not a single +Mahometan was to be seen unengaged in prayer, as the sun sunk below the +horizon. + +The following morning I was early upon deck. The sun had not yet risen, +and the air was fresh and invigorating; while upon the white, heavy, +oily sea, was a slight fog, which the breeze was dispersing in flakes. +Around us a quantity of porpoises were either splashing in the midst of +the waves or floating like buoys upon the surface. The most profound +silence reigned upon the deck of the steamer. Wet with the night-dews, +the half-slumbering seamen of the watch were seated in a circle near the +funnel; while numberless Turks, rolled up in their yellow coverlets +striped with red, were sleeping forward beneath the netting: the +steersman at the wheel and the man on the look-out were alone really +wide awake. Suddenly, I perceived dawning in the east a greenish light, +which became yellow as it ascended in the heavens; the low and flat +shore appeared like a black line upon this luminous background, and by +degrees the sea resumed its azure tint. An hour afterwards we were +within cannon-shot of the Seraglio; but, alas! a thick fog covered the +city. Constantinople was invisible--and I was deploring the mischance, +which was depriving me of a long-anticipated pleasure, when suddenly the +sun shone forth brightly, and the fog acquired as if by enchantment a +wonderful transparency. The curtain was, as it were, torn to bits, and +from all quarters at once there appeared to my dazzled eyes forests of +minarets with gilded peaks, thousands of cupolas blazing in the light, +hills covered with many-coloured houses, surrounded by verdure; an +immense succession of palaces with grotesque windows, blue-roofed +mosques, groves of cypress-trees and sycamores, gardens full of flowers, +a port filled as far as the eye could discern with ships, masts, and +flags; in a word, the whole of that enchanted city, which resembles less +an immense capital than an endless succession of lovely kiosks, built in +a boundless park, having lakes for docks, mountains for background, +forests for thickets, fleets for boats,--in fine, an incomparable spot, +and at the same time so grand and elegant, that it seems to have been +designed by fairies, and executed by giants. + +Several writers have compared the view of Constantinople to that of +Naples. I cannot, however, agree with them. Any one can figure the +latter capital, whilst, on the contrary, the City of the Sultan +surpasses all that imagination can picture. Our enchantment, however, +was of short duration: the vapours again became condensed, the view was +gradually covered with a rosy haze, then became dim, and Constantinople +disappeared from before us like a dream. The Scamandre, which had +stopped for a few minutes, was again put in motion, and having rounded +the Seraglio, cast anchor in the midst of the strait which separates +Stamboul (the Turkish quarter) from Galata, (the European faubourg.) In +a moment the deck of our vessel was one scene of confusion: the sailors +were running to and fro, while the passengers were rushing one against +another, vociferating after their baggage. Around the vessel there kept +gliding two or three hundred black caicks, rowed by half-naked boatmen; +and notwithstanding the orders to the contrary, a quantity of Maltese +sailors, Turkish porters, and Levantine ciceroni came on board, and +literally took us by storm, bawling out their offers of service, in +almost every known language. Clouds of blue pigeons, and whitewinged +albatros, flew about over our heads, uttering plaintive cries; add to +these the stentorian voice of our French commander, the curiosity and +impatience of the travellers demonstrated by their noisy exclamations, +and one will have an idea of the spectacle offered by the deck of a +steamer on its arrival at a Turkish port. + +During the hauling of the vessel to the quay, I scarcely knew upon what +to fix my eyes, attracted as they simultaneously were by a thousand +different objects. Here was the Golden Horn with its numberless ships, +the cypress-trees of Galata, and the seven hills of ancient Byzantium +covered with mosques; there, the blue waves of the Propontis, and the +glittering banks of Scutari. Giddy with enthusiasm, and intoxicated with +admiration, I attempted, as our caick approached the landing-place, to +be the first to leap upon the quay, when, just as I was in the act of +springing, my foot slipped, and I fell headlong into a miry stream. Such +was my entrance into Constantinople. + +As soon as I gained footing, splashed with mud from head to foot, I +remained a moment motionless, and almost petrified with astonishment. +All was changed around me: the enchanted panorama had disappeared, and I +found myself in a small filthy crossway, at the entrance of a labyrinth +of narrow, damp, dark, muddy streets. The houses which surrounded me, +built as they were of disjointed planks, had a miserable aspect; time +and rain had diluted their primitive red colour into numberless nameless +tints. One of those minarets which from afar appeared so slender and so +beautiful, now that it was close to me proved to be merely a small +column devoid of symmetry, while its covering of cracked plaster seemed +on the point of falling to pieces. The Turkish promenaders whom from a +distance I had taken for richly attired merchants, proved to be a set of +miserable tatterdemalions with ragged turbans. Behind the porters who +crowded to the landing-place, were butchers embowelling sheep in the +open street; while the pavement was covered with bloody mire and smoking +entrails, around which several score of hideous dogs, of a fallow +colour, were growling and fighting. A fetid stench arose from the damp +gutters, where neither air nor light have ever penetrated, where +corruptions of all sorts amass, and where one is continually in danger +of stepping upon a dead dog or rat. Such is without exaggeration the +aspect of the greater part of the streets of Constantinople, and in +particular those of Galata. This contrast between the misery of what +surrounds you, and the incomparable beauty of the same spot when seen +from a distance, has never yet been sufficiently remarked upon by +travellers who seek to describe Constantinople. Perhaps they have been +unwilling to cool the enthusiasm of their readers in dirtying with these +hideous, but true details, their gold and silver-plated descriptions. + +Perfectly disenchanted by this sudden change of scene, I followed the +bearer of my baggage up a street, which was steep, badly paved, and so +narrow that three men could scarcely have walked along it abreast. On +the right and left hand were disgusting little shops, or rather booths, +filled with green fruit and vegetables. Having proceeded onwards, we +rounded the tower of Galata, which, from a near view resembles a +handsome dove-cote, and shortly afterwards arrived at Pera, and +proceeded to take up our quarters at a kind of hotel, kept by one +Giusepine Vitali, where I immediately went to bed and was soon +afterwards fast asleep. + +At ten o'clock, A.M., I was awakened by my fellow-travellers, and +accompanied them to the caravanserai of the Turning Dervishes. A +somewhat lengthened residence in the northern provinces of Persia, where +a Turkish idiom is spoken, had given me a tolerable fluency in that +language, and I was thus enabled to act as interpreter to my friends. +The cicerone of the hotel conducted us to a circular building situated +in the midst of a small garden, whither was hurrying a crowd composed of +Greeks, Armenians, and Turks. Having arrived at the vestibule, we took +off our boots and confided them to the care of a man who kept a sort of +depot for slippers, of which he hired out to each of us a pair. We then +entered a large circular hall, lighted from above, in the centre of +which was an oaken floor, waxed and polished with the greatest care, and +protected by a balustrade. Around this arena were seated a number of +spectators of all ages, country, and costumes, and exhaling a strong +odour of garlic. The ceremony was commenced: for to the music of a +barbarous orchestra, composed of small timbals and squeaking fifes, +accompanying some nasal voices, about twenty tall, bearded young men, +clad in long white robes, were waltzing gravely round an old man in a +blue pelisse. These men carried on their heads a thick beaver cap, +similar in form to a flower-pot turned upside down. Their white robes, +made of a heavy kind of woollen stuff, were so constantly bulged out +with the air that they seemed made of wood. With their arms extended in +the form of a cross, the left hand being somewhat more elevated than the +right, and their looks fixed upon the ceiling with a stupid stare, these +Dervishes continued to turn rapidly round upon their naked feet with +such regularity and impassibility that they seemed like automatons put +into motion by machinery. + +Suddenly the music ceased, upon which the Dervishes threw themselves +simultaneously upon their knees, inclining their heads at the same time +to the ground. For several minutes they remained motionless in this +position, while some attendants threw a large black cloak over each, +upon which they again stood up and ranged themselves in a line. Upon +this the old man in the blue pelisse, who had hitherto sat motionless +upon his heels, began a plaintive nasal chant, to which his subordinates +responded in a roaring chorus; this finished, the crowd began to +disperse, and we returned to our hotel. + +Besides the Turning Dervishes, there are also at Constantinople the +Howling Dervishes, who, instead of waltzing until they fall from +giddiness, continue to utter the most frightful shrieks, until they fall +upon the ground exhausted and foaming at the mouth. Historians have +accorded different origins to these singular and absurd exercises; for +my part, I am inclined to consider them as remnants of the furious +dances taught by the ancient people of Asia to the Corybantes. + +The day after my arrival I embarked for Stamboul, the Turkish quarter, +in one of those long caicks which are as it were the hackney coaches of +Constantinople. The least oscillation is sufficient to upset these light +barks, which are impelled with inconceivable rapidity by two or three +fine light-looking Arnaouts, dressed in silken shirts. In two minutes, +having traversed the Golden Horn, passing through an immense crowd of +boats of every form, and ships of every nation, we disembarked upon a +landing-place even more dangerous than the caick, on account of its +slipperiness and the chances thereby of falling headlong into a +receptacle of filth and mud. The streets of Stamboul are still more +narrow, filthy, and fetid than those of Galata and Pera. Wooden hovels, +badly constructed, and worse painted; a species of cages pierced with an +infinite number of trellised windows, with one story projecting over the +ground floor, flank on the right and on the left hand these passages, +through which hurry a motley crowd with noiseless tread. The pavement, +made of little stones placed in the dust, slip from under one's feet and +expose one to continual falls. Upon the boards of the first shops one +passes are piled heaps of large fish, whose scales glitter in the sun, +in spite of the dust. Fawn-coloured dogs, in much greater numbers than +at Galata, run between your legs--and wo to whosoever should disengage +himself too energetically from these hideous brutes, which are protected +by Mussulman bigotry! The habits of these animals, whose number amounts +to above a hundred thousand, are exceedingly singular. They belong to no +one, and have no habitation; they are born, they live and they die, in +the open street; at every turn one may see a litter of puppies suckled +by their mother. Upon what these quadrupeds feed it would be difficult +to state. The Turkish government abandons to them the clearing of the +streets, and the offal and every sort of filth, together with the dead +bodies of their fellows, compose their apparently ordinary nourishment. +At night they wander about in the burying grounds, howling in the most +frightful manner. Whatever may be their means of existence, they +multiply their species with the most surprising rapidity. Some years +ago, the canine race had increased to such a degree at Constantinople +that it became dangerous, when, to the pious horror of the Old +Mussulmans, the Sultan Mahmood, among other reforms, caused twenty +thousand of these animals to be, not poisoned, he would not have dared +to so greatly offend against the prejudices of the inhabitants, but +transported to the isles of Marmora. In a few days they had devoured +every thing in the place of exile, after which, tormented by hunger, +they made such a hideous row, and uttered such plaintive howls, that +pity was taken upon them, and they were brought back in triumph to +Constantinople. Fortunately hydrophobia is unknown in the Levant. + +The bazars of Constantinople have been so often described that it would +be useless to describe them at any length. I will merely observe, +therefore, that though infinitely more considerable, they do not +respond, any more than those of Smyrna, to the ideas of luxury and +grandeur which untravelled Europeans are apt to conceive of them. The +Turkish bazars have a miserable aspect; they are nothing more than an +immense labyrinth of large vaulted galleries, clumsily built, and at all +times damp in the extreme. Magnificent carpets, stuffs embroidered in +gold and silver, and other objects, the richness of which contrasts most +singularly with the nakedness of the walls, are hung out for display on +cords stretched transversely. The counter is a flat board of wood, very +slightly elevated above the ground, and which serves as a divan to the +seller and a seat to the buyer. From this place, which is usually +covered with a mat, the Mussulman gazes in silence upon the passing +foreigner, whom he rarely deigns to address by the name of Effendi; +while, on the contrary, the active and loquacious Armenian even leaves +his shop to run after him with some tempting object in his hand, at the +same time indiscriminately giving him the title of "Signore Capitan." In +the bazars are an astonishing number of articles which are often very +cheap, such as tissues of silk, dressing gowns, gold embroidery, and +Persian carpets, perfumery, precious stones, pieces of amber, furs, +sweetmeats, pipes, morocco leather, velvet slippers, silken scarfs and +Cachemire shawls cover a space extending over several leagues. In the +"_Besestein_," a large building separated from the other bazars, one +meets with in quantities those old arms, so sought after by antiquaries, +carbines ornamented with coral, magnificent yataghans worn by the +Janissaries before their destruction, and the famous blades of Khorasan. + +The commerce of Constantinople is closely allied with that of Smyrna; +and many branches of trade, such as silk and opium, being required to +pay duties at the customhouse of the capital, the merchants buy them at +Constantinople merely in order to pass them over to Smyrna, where they +find a more advantageous market for them. In consequence, these goods +are twice borne upon the registers of the Turkish customhouses, which, +be it observed, are exceedingly badly kept. Wool forms the principal +branch of trade at the Porte, which is abundantly furnished with that +article from her nearest provinces, Roumelia, Thessaly, and Bulgaria, +which, containing about five million inhabitants, feed about eight +million sheep, the value of which may be estimated at about two hundred +million piastres, (the Turkish piastre, is worth about 2-1/4d.) It would +have been impossible for such an important object to have failed +exciting the cupidity of a government constituted like that of the +Ottoman empire; in consequence, in 1829, they attempted to make a +monopoly of the wool-trade. Fortunately, the clamorous despair of the +owners of the flocks, and some good advice, caused the Divan to recall +the measure, which would in all probability not only have given a fatal +blow to the wool-trade, but have entirely put an end to the feeding of +flocks throughout Turkey. Instead, therefore, of monopolising this +branch of commerce, the government saddled it with such an exorbitant +duty, that the provinces definitively gained little by the change. The +price of wool was more than quadrupled, and in 1833 there was sold for +above 170 piastres the hundredweight what in 1816 cost but forty +piastres. The abolition of the monopolies and the modification of the +duties have given, since the last six or seven years, some facilities to +this trade, without, however, entirely restoring it to its former state +of prosperity. Partly destroyed by the severe blow it had received, and +shackled by the avarice of the Pashas, it languishes, as indeed does +every other branch of trade and industry in the empire. + +Of Turkey, which men have rendered a country of misery and of famine, +the Almighty seems to have intended to have made a land of promise. For +agriculture, He has created immense plains, unequalled in fertility +throughout the globe, and in the bowels of the mountains He has hidden +incalculable treasures; and in return for all these gifts, these +glorious gifts, what have the inhabitants done? they have left the land +uncultivated, and the mountains unsearched. Mines of all sorts abound. +Copper, (which is sold in secret only, and is a contraband article,) +were its mines worked on a grand scale, would alone furnish a new +element of commerce to Constantinople, and might help to draw it from +its present state of torpor. But will the Turks ever dream of such a +thing? Never! For like the dog in the fable, the Ottomans will neither +profit themselves nor let others profit by what is in the territory. Too +indolent to work out the natural riches of their soil, they are too +jealous to permit others to do it for them. Besides, Europeans, by an +ancient law which we have recently seen confirmed, having no right to +possess land in Turkey, cannot undertake any agricultural or commercial +speculation of any importance. In addition to this, the Turkish +government itself is ignorant of most of the natural riches of its +territory; for the inhabitants, well knowing the character of the men +who have the management of affairs, take every possible precaution to +conceal the existence of the mines, for fear they should be forced to +work them without remuneration. + +The provinces of the Danube have now yielded to Thrace and to Macedon +the furnishing of the capital with corn. This important trade has been +ruined, like every thing else, by the barbarous measures of a stupid +ministry. In reserving to itself the supplying of the capital, the +government does not allow the exportation of corn without special +permission. Without doubt, the liberty of this trade would have given a +new impulse to agriculture, and would have restored prosperity to +several provinces; but that would not have been for the interest of +those personages who had the power of giving permits, and who +consequently made a traffic of the firmans. In 1828, a circumstance +occurred which ought to have enlightened the government on this point. +The Russians had intercepted all communication with the capital, and in +consequence a want of provisions occurred; for the ill-furnished public +magazines afforded such damaged wheat only, that it could with great +difficulty be baked into bad and unhealthy bread. To remedy this evil, +an employe ventured to suggest that any one who could procure corn +should be permitted to supply the capital. The situation of affairs was +critical, for the people were beginning to murmur; and the suggestion +was carried into effect. No sooner was the permission accorded, than a +multitude of farmers and merchants hastened to pour grain into the +market, and plenty soon reappeared. This was an excellent lesson to the +government, but how did it profit thereby? First of all it reinstated +the monopoly, and four years afterwards, in 1832, happening to require a +million measures for its magazines, in order to make more sure of +speedily procuring that quantity, it forbade the _exportation_ of corn, +inasmuch that to collect the required million of measures, it destroyed, +in all probability, a hundred millions, and ruined about ten thousand +cultivators. This barbarous system partly ended in 1838, but it will be +long before its withering effects are effaced. + +It is in the long corridors of the bazars that the commercial business +of the country is carried on. An immense multitude, more curious to view +than even the exposition of the different wares, congregates thither +daily. Constantinople, notwithstanding its state of decline, is always +the point of intersection between the eastern and western world. At this +general rendezvous, whither Europe and Asia send their representatives, +one may study the human species in almost every possible variety of +type. English, Americans, Russians, Greeks, Italians, Germans, Persians, +Circassians, Arabs, Koords, Austrians, Hungarians, Abyssinians, Tartars, +French, &c. &c., hurry to and fro around the Turk, who smokes and +dreams, calm and immovable amidst the active throng, which presents an +inconceivable medley of silk pelisses, white bornous and black robes, +surmounted by green turbans, red fezs, and beaver hats. Numbers of +women, covered with white dominos, advance slowly and spectre-like +through the crowd, which every now and then opens its ranks to give +passage to some mounted Pasha, followed by his attendants on foot. Here +and there may be seen asses loaded with bales, and at the further end of +the galleries are caravans of camels. One's ears are deafened with the +piercing cries of the sherbet-sellers, and the howling of the dogs; +while quantities of pigeons coo over the heads of the motley crowd. +Although, on taking a general view of this spectacle, there is little to +admire, still one may select from it an infinite number of original +scenes and pictures full of character. Here, for instance, an ambulating +musician sings, or rather chants to an attentive audience one of those +interminable ballads of which the Turks never tire; there, are half a +dozen Greeks quarrelling and vociferating so energetically, that one +would expect nothing less than that from words they would come to +bloodshed; while, further on, a circle of friends are regaling +themselves over a basket of green cucumbers. Talking of cucumbers, they +almost entirely compose, in summer, the nourishment of the Turks. The +Sultan Mahmood II. was excessively fond of this fruit, or rather +vegetable, and cultivated it with his own hands in the Seraglio gardens. +Having one day perceived that some of his cucumbers were missing, he +sent for his head gardener, and informed him that, should such a +circumstance occur again, he would order his head to be cut off. The +next day three more cucumbers had been stolen, upon which the gardener, +to save his own head, accused the pages of his highness of having +committed the theft. These unhappy youths were immediately sent for, and +having all declared themselves innocent, the enraged Sultan, in order to +discover the culprit, commanded them one after another to be +disembowelled. Nothing was found in the stomach or entrails of the first +six victims, but the autopsy of the seventh proved him to have been the +guilty one. + +In the midst of the crowds in the Turkish capital, the women present a +curious spectacle, wandering about as they do covered with white +dominos, or rather winding-sheets. The lot of this portion of the +Mussulman population is much less unhappy than one would be led to +expect. They certainly hold a secondary station in society, but, +brought-up as they are in the most complete ignorance, they are +unconscious of their degraded position, and know not that there is a +better. They are, in general, treated very kindly by their husbands and +masters, and do not undergo, as it is supposed, either capricious or +brutal treatment. Although in Europe they still believe a Turk to be +constantly surrounded by a multitude of odalisques, to whom, as it suits +his fancy, he throws in turn his handkerchief, at Constantinople there +are very few Osmanlees who have three or even two wives, and even these +they lodge in separate mansions, in general far distant from each other. +Almost all the Turks, with the exception of the very few above mentioned +individuals, possess in general but one wife, to whom they are most +faithful. The grand seignior alone is a Sultan in the full and +voluptuous acceptation of the term. He is possessor of a magnificent +palace, where no noise from without ever penetrates, and where immense +riches have collected together all the wonders of luxury. Marble baths, +lovely gardens bounded by a sparkling sea, and vaulted by an indigo sky, +legions of slaves, who have no will but his, no law but his caprices; +and in this Eden three or four hundred women chosen from out of the most +beautiful in the universe; this is the world, this is the life of that +man: and yet, although he be so young, all who know him say that the +present Sultan is morose, sad, and splenetic. + +On mounting, at sixteen, upon the throne of Turkey, Abdul Medjid +announced it to be his intention to change nothing that his father +Mahmood had established, and declared himself a partisan of the system +of reform commenced by that sovereign. Notwithstanding the custom, +rendered almost sacred by tradition, he renounced the turban and was +_crowned_ with the fez. Contrary to the usage of former Sultans, who on +their accession put to death or closely imprisoned all their brothers, +he allowed his brother Abdul Haziz not only his life, but full liberty. + +The Hatti-sherif of Gulhanch, published on the 19th of November 1839, +and which has been viewed in so many and different lights, proved at +least the good intentions of this sovereign, called so young to support +so weighty a burden. At various times he has manifested a desire for +instruction, and has taken lessons in geography and in Italian; he has +also travelled over a part of his empire. + +It is usual at Constantinople for the Sultan to proceed every Friday +(the Mussulman Sabbath) to pray in one of the mosques. The one chosen is +named in the morning, and he proceeds thither on horseback or in his +caick, according to the quarter in which it is situated. This weekly +ceremony is almost the sole occasion on which foreigners can see his +highness. During my stay at Constantinople, I had several opportunities +of gazing upon the descendant of the Prophet. He is a young man, of +slender frame, of grave physiognomy, and a most _distingue_ appearance. +A crowd of officers and eunuchs formed his suite, and all heads bowed +low at his approach. Abdul Medjid, who was the twentieth-born child of +his father Mahmood, was born at Constantinople on the 19th of April +1823. His black and stiff beard cause him to appear older than he is in +reality. His eye is very brilliant, and his features regular. His face +is somewhat marked with the smallpox; but this is not very apparent, as +the young sultan, according to the custom of the harem, has an +artificial complexion for days of ceremony. Naturally of a delicate +frame, excesses have much enfeebled his constitution; his continual +ill-health, his pallor, and his teeth already decayed, announce, that +though so young in years, he is expiating the pleasures of a Sultan by a +premature decrepitude. Abdul Medjid has several children, who are weak +and sickly like their father, and the state of their health inspires +constant anxiety. + +Few sovereigns have been more diversely judged than Mahmood, the father +of the present Sultan. Lauded to the skies by some, lowered to the dust +by others, he died before Europe was properly enlightened as to his +intentions. Now that his work has undergone the ordeal of time, one can +appreciate it at its real value. Ascending the throne at an epoch of +anarchy and disorder, having at one and the same time to oppose the +invasion of Russia, and to put down the rebellion of the Pashas, who +were raising their pashalicks into sovereignties, Mahmood gave proofs, +during several years, of a force of character almost inconceivable in a +man enervated from his childhood by the pleasures of the harem. +Unfortunately his intellect was unequal to his obstinacy: every abuse he +put down gave rise to or made way for new abuses, which he could not +foresee, and was unable to destroy. The established order of affairs, +which he fought against, was a hydra, from which, for one head cut off, +twenty sprang up. Far from augmenting his power, his greatest +enterprises merely tended to enfeeble it. The repression of Ali the +Pasha of Janina, cost Mahmood the kingdom of Greece; and had not the +powers of Europe intervened, the war against Mehemet Ali would have cost +him his throne. Even the destruction of the Janissaries, which was +considered so great a cause of triumph by the Sultan, was it in reality +so? It is surely permitted to doubt the circumstance. That powerful +militia, scattered through the empire, was in some sort the focus of +that spirit of fatalism, which had till then been the principal prop of +the imperfect work of the Arabian impostor; to destroy it was to strike +a death-blow to that society which breathed as it were in war alone. In +overthrowing an obstacle which paralysed his power, Mahmood dug an abyss +into which the Turkish empire must sooner or later fall; for the spirit +of religious enthusiasm which he destroyed has been replaced by no other +incentive. + +The chief fault of Mahmood was the cutting down without thinking of +sowing; for without properly understanding the extent of what he was +doing, he too hastily cast from its old course, without placing it in a +better, a dull stupid nation, to transform which required both time and +patience. Above all, Mahmood was guided solely by the impulses of an +indomitable pride, and seems to have much less considered the interests +of his empire, than the satisfying of his own vanity. He hastened to +change the aspect and surface of things, deluding himself into the idea +that he had metamorphosed an Asiatic people into a European state. +Hurried away by the desire of innovation, and at the same time cramped +by the effects of a religion which resists all progress, striving in +vain to make the precepts of the Koran compatible with civilisation, +Mahmood moved during the whole of his reign within a fatal circle, and, +dying of an ignoble malady, he left his empire tottering to its fall. + + + + +HORAE CATULLIANAE. + +LETTER TO EUSEBIUS. + + +You desire, then, my dear Eusebius, to hear more of the Curate's +difficulty. We left him, you remember, with Gratian, who took him by the +arm, and walked off to see what his authority would do to quell the +parochial disturbance. You have seen the general opinion upon the +countenance Gratian would give to delinquents; you will not, therefore, +augur very favourably of this expedition. Loving a little mischief, as +you do, you will, perhaps, be not quite agreeably disappointed. Had +Gratian trusted alone to his character, he would have failed; which +shows that sometimes it is dangerous to have too good a one. + +Not a parishioner but would have looked upon the patronage of Gratian to +the Curate as resulting from the weakness--those who meant to turn it to +compliment would say, the excessive kindness, of his nature. A little +malice interposing, they were by no means disposed, if they loved +Gratian, "to love his dog,"--in the light of which comparison they now +looked upon the Curate. Gratian's sly wit, however, availed more than +his authority. It seems they had not proceeded very far when they met +Prateapace. The Curate having some business in another direction, left +Gratian with the maiden-lady. You can imagine his first advances, +complimenting her upon her fresh morning looks. Then taking her by the +arm, as if for familiar support, transferring his stick to the other +hand, and looking his cajolery inimitably, and with a low voice saying, +"My dear Miss Lydia, what is all this story I hear that you charge the +Curate with?" "Oh, no, not I!" interrupted the maiden; "it is you have +done that. I only know that I heard you reprove him for his behaviour to +some one or other, whom you seriously declared either must be or ought +to be his wife." "My dear _young_ lady," said Gratian, "that is now +quite a mistake of yours:" he then, as he reports, told her what they +had been reading, and that his remarks were upon the book, and the +author of it, and had nothing to do with the Curate. To all which she +nodded her head incredulously, and laughingly said, "Oh, you good, +_good_-natured man; and pray who may that improper author be?" "Why," +quoth Gratian, "Miss Lydia Prateapace wouldn't, I know, have me +recommend her any _improper_ author." "Oh, no, no!--I don't ask with any +intention to read him, I assure you," she replied. Gratian went on, +"Believe me, he is a very old author, a Roman." "A Roman indeed!" she +quite vociferated--"one of those horrid Papists, I suppose! A Roman is +he? Then the Curate--why should he read Papistical books, and learn such +tricks from them?" It was in vain for Gratian to endeavour to explain. +Miss Prateapace had but one notion of the Romans--that there never was +one that had not kissed the Pope's toe. So here he very wisely took +another tack, and drawing her a little aside, as if he would not have +even the very hedges hear him, and with no little affected caution, +looking about him, he said, in a half whisper--"Now let me, my dear +young lady, tell you a bit of a secret. All this is an idle tale, and is +just as I have told you; but this I tell you, that to my certain +knowledge, the Curate's _affections_"--laying stress on the word +affections--"are seriously engaged;" at which Miss Lydia stared, and +looked the personification of curiosity. "Engaged is he, did you say?" +"No, _he_ is not engaged," said Gratian, "but I happen to know that his +affections are--" "Then," quoth she, "I suppose he has declared as much +to the object." "Ah--no!--there is the very point--you are quite +mistaken--she has not the slightest suspicion of it." This was scarcely +credible to the lady's notion of love-making, but the earnest manner of +Gratian was every thing. "No," said he; "he is a most exemplary +conscientious young man, and so far avoids the making any show of his +feelings, that he affects, I really believe, more indifference towards +that lady than to any other. He tells me that he thinks it would not be +honourable in his present circumstances and position to engage _her_ +affections; but he looks forward, as his prospects are fair." Miss Lydia +was interested--pondered awhile, and then said, "You dear good man, do +tell me who the lady is!" "No," replied Gratian, "I dare not betray a +secret; but be assured, my dear Miss Lydia Prateapace, that if our +Curate marries, he will make his choice not very far from this." "You +don't say so!" cried she: "Really now, who can it be?" "I can only say +one thing more," replied our fox Gratian, "and perhaps that is saying +too much; but--" whispering in her ear--"of all the letters in the +alphabet, her name begins with Lydia." Whereupon he made a start, put +his finger upon his lips, as if he had in his hurry told the secret; and +she started back a pace in another direction, looked in his face to see +if he was in jest; finding there nothing but apparent simplicity, she +looked a little confused, and evidently took the compliment and the +_hopes_ into her own bosom. When she could sufficiently collect her +thoughts, she expressed her sorrow for any mischief she might have done, +unintentionally; and added, that she would do all in her power to set +all things right again. At this point the Curate returned: he addressed +her somewhat distantly, which to her was a sign stronger than +familiarity, upon the power of which she gave him her hand _of +encouragement_. Gratian took care to leave well alone--let go her arm, +and leaning upon the Curate's wished her good morning, with a gracious +smile about his insidious mouth, to which he put his finger +significantly as if entreating her silence upon the subject of their +conversation. I have told you the particulars of this interview, +Eusebius, as I could gather them from Gratian's narration; and he has a +way of acting what he says, as if he had studied in that school where +the first requisite for an orator is--action; the second--action; the +third--action! + +Our friend Gratian, Eusebius, made no matter of conscience of this +fibbing--did not hesitate--wanted no "ductor dubitantium"--as he told it +to us. He gave, it is true, his limb a smarter tapping; but it was no +twinge of conscience that caused the movement of the stick, and there is +nothing of the Franciscan about our friend. Did he _say_ a word that was +not perfect truth? + +But what was the intention?--did he mean to deceive? But this is not a +question to discuss with you. You will do more than acquit him. So I am +answered, and silent. Gratian's answer was this. In his fabulous mood, +he asked--"If you should see a lion, an open-mouthed lion of the +veritable [Greek: chasm' odonton] breed, traversing a wood, and he +should accost you thus, 'Pray, sir, did you chance to see a man I am +looking after go this way?' would you point out his lurking place, his +path of escape? or would you not, if you knew he went to the right, +direct the lion by all means to continue his pursuit on the left? Then, +sir, which will your worshipful morality prefer, to be the accessary to +the murder, or the principal in the deceit?" + +I must not omit to tell you that a few days ago Gratian and the Curate +spent a pleasant day with the Bishop, who was not a little amused at +their narration of the circumstances that produced the singular +parochial epistle, which his lordship had duly received. The Bishop's +hospitality is well seasoned with conversational ease, and perfect +agreeability, and has besides that + + "Seu quid suavius elegantiusve est" + +which our Catullus promises to his friend Fabullus. The Bishop, a ripe +scholar, spoke much and critically of Catullus, and laid most stress +upon the extreme suavity of his measures, especially in the "Acmen +Septimius." There were present two archdeacons and a very agreeable +classical physician. All had at one time or other, they acknowledged, +translated "Vivamus, mea Lesbia, atque amemus." The physician said he +had only satisfied himself with three lines, and yet he thought their +only merit was the being line for line. He repeated both the original +and his translation:-- + + "Soles occidere et redire possunt: + Nobis, quum semel occidit brevis lux, + Nox est perpetua una dormienda. + + "Suns die, but soon their light restore, + While we, when our brief day is o'er, + Sleep one long night to wake no more." + +The Curate, with the jealousy of a rival translator, objected to "suns +_die_," and thought "suns _set_" would be quite as well and a closer +translation. The Physician assented. The Bishop smiled, and said, "suns +_die_" was probably a professional lapsus. The Physician replied, that +such would be a very unprofessional lapsus; and Gratian quoted the +passage from Fielding, who says it is an unjust misrepresentation that +"physicians are the friends of death," and instanced the two physicians +who, in the case of the death of Captain Blifil, "dismissed the corpse +with a single fee, but were not so disgusted with the living patient." +At parting, the Bishop took the Curate most kindly by the hand, and +recommended him by all means to cultivate the amiability of +versification. + +After this, Gratian and the Curate had much business in hand, and we did +not meet for some time. Gratian stirred a little in this affair of the +Curate's, and with effect. We did meet, however, and recommenced the + + +HORAE CATULLIANAE. + +You now see us again in the library--time, after tea. Gratian enjoys his +easy-chair; a small fire--for it is not cold--just musically whispers +among the coals, comfort. Gratian says he has had a busy day of it, and, +though not wearied, is in that happy state of repose to enjoy rest, and +of excitement to enjoy social converse; and after a little, preliminary +chat, asked if there was any thing lately from Catullus. + +AQUILIUS.--Yes. He is returned from his unprofitable travel, and you +seem to be in that state of sensitive quiescence, to feel with him the +pleasures of home. He is now at his own villa, and thus welcomes, and +acknowledges the welcome offered him by his beloved Sirmio. + + AD SIRMIONEM PENINSULAM. + + My Sirmio, thou the very gem and eye + Of islands and peninsulas, that lie + In that two-fold dominion Neptune takes + Of the salt sea and sweet translucent lakes! + Oh! with what joy I visit thee again, + Scarce yet believing, how, left far behind, + The tedious Thynian and Bithynian plain, + I see thee, Sirmio, with this peaceful mind. + Oh, what a blessed thing is the sweet quiet, + When the tired heart lays down its load of care, + And after foreign toil and sickening riot, + Weary and worn, to feel at last we are + At our own home--and our own floor to tread, + And lie in peace on the long-wish'd-for bed! + This, this alone, repays all labours past. + Hail to thee, lovely Sirmio! gladly take + Thine own, own master home to thee at last: + And all ye sportive waters of my lake, + Laugh out your welcome to my cheerful voice, + And all that laughs at home, with me rejoice. + +GRATIAN.--I well remember this singularly sweet, kind, affectionate +address. It is the best version of "Home is home, be it ever so homely," +I know. You have needlessly repeated _own_. Why not say, loved master? + +CURATE.--Don't you think the _acquiescimus lecto_ would be better +rendered "sink to rest?" I fancy the Latin expresses the sinking down of +the wearied limbs, or rather, whole person, into the soft and deep +feather bed. + +AQUILIUS.--I Set it down so, but altered it, thinking the "lie in peace" +was in reality more quiescent than any thing expressing an act--as +sinking is a process _in transitu_--the result, lying in peace. It has +often been translated, among others, by Leigh Hunt, and that prince of +translators, Elton--though I think I was not satisfied with his +translation of the Sirmio--of the others I do not remember a word. + +CURATE.--Leigh Hunt overdid his work--there is more labour than ease in +the line + + "The loosened limbs o'er all the wished-for bed." + +Not simple enough for Catullus; neither is this--a rather affected +line-- + + "Laughs every dimple in the cheek of home." + +GRATIAN.--No, that won't do--it is a conceit. One would imagine it +borrowed or translated from some Italian poet. + +AQUILIUS.--The "loosened limbs o'er all the wished-for bed," strikes me +as rather of the ludicrous, and not unlike the description of himself by +Berni in his fanciful palace, where he ordered a bed, adjoining that of +the French cook's, which was to be large enough to swim in--"Come si fa +nel mare." + +GRATIAN.--Now then, Mr Curate, let us have your version. + +CURATE. + + TO THE PENINSULA OF SIRMIO. + + All hail to thee, delightful Sirmio! + Of all peninsulas and isles the gem, + Which lake or sea in its fair breast doth show + With either Neptune's arms encircling them. + What joy to find that Thynia, and that plain + Bithynian gone, and see thee safe again! + Charming it is to rest from care and cumber, + When the mind throws its burden, and we come + Wearied with pains of foreign travel home, + And in the bed so longed for sink to slumber. + This pays for all the toil, this quiet after-- + Joy, my sweet Sirmio, for thy master's sake, + Make merry, frolic wavelets of my lake-- + Laugh on me, all ye stores of home-bred laughter. + +GRATIAN.--I don't like "the mind _throws_ its burden:" lays it down is +better--there is more weariness in it. You must alter that expression, +or we see the mind like the "iniquae mentis ascellus," dropping back its +ears, and _throwing_ its not agreeable and easy-sitting rider. Why not-- + + "When the mind lays its burden down, to come?" + +But I see you have both of you translated away from the Latin the _Lydiae +undae_. How comes it so? + +AQUILIUS.--The reasons given for the word meaning Lydian seem to be +insufficient; because it is said the Benacus resembles the Lydian rivers +Hermus and Pactolus in having gold; or because the Benacus was in the +district of the Thusci, who came from the Lydians. I adopted a +conjecture once thrown out--and I think it was by the most accomplished +scholar, W. S. Landor, that _Lydiae_ is the adjective of the word +_Ludius--ludiae undae_, or _Lydiae undae_, the same thing, for that ludius +is, as the dictionary tells us, "a Lydis, qui erant optimi saltatores." +If so, _Lydiae_ would mean the sportive, or "dancing waters of the lake." + +CURATE.--I took this hint from Aquilius, though I do not remember from +whom the suggestion came. I would venture from the last line-- + + "Ridete quidquid est domi cachinnorum--" + +a remark upon a passage, the celebrated expression in the _Prometheus_ +of AEschylus, the [Greek: anerithmon gelasma]. Some call it "countless +dimples." Now is it not possible Catullus may have thought of this, and +as it were translated it by _quidquid est cachinnorum_? The question +then would be, is it meant to speak to the ear or the eye? Is it of +sound or vision? I am inclined to think it is the sound, the +communicative laughter of the many waves. "Dimple" is too little for the +gigantic conception of AEschylus, but the laughter of the multitudinous +ocean-waves is more after his genius. No one could translate _cachinnus_ +"a dimple." If, therefore, Catullus had in his mind the Greek passage, +it shows his idea of the [Greek: anerithmon gelasma]. + +GRATIAN.--I have often admired how that can be _very_ beautiful which is +of uncertain meaning. Is it that either construction conveys distinct +thought--clear idea? I confess, I prefer the sound. What comes next? + +CURATE.--Missing one or two, we take up his "Request to his friend +Caecilius to come to him to Verona"--who, it seems, was a native of that +place, and fellow townsman, as well as most dear friend of Catullus. + +AQUILIUS.--Both poets--both kind-hearted; in fact, "The two gentlemen of +Verona." + +GRATIAN.--Well, that is saying something for Latin poets. Let us have +your version, Curate. + +CURATE. + + INVITATION TO CAECILIUS. + + Papyrus, to Caecilius tell + (A touching bard, my friend as well) + That to Verona he must come, + Where his Catullus is at home, + And new-built Comu's walls forsake, + And that sweet shore of Laris Lake. + A friend of mine and his has brought + To light some passages of thought, + Which he must hear. So if he will + Be thriving and improving still, + His speed will swallow up the distance, + Although with amorous resistance, + And both arms clinging round his neck, + That lovely maid his progress check, + With lips a thousand times that say + "Oh, do not, do not go away!" + I mean that maid who, Fame--not I-- + Asserts for love of him would die; + For fire consumes her heart and head, + Since first the opening lines she read + Of Cybele the God's great queen. + Maid, learned as the Sapphic muse, + I cannot sympathy refuse; + For not amiss (the book I've seen) + Begins the tale, "The Mighty Queen." + +AQUILIUS.--I protest against "so if he will be thriving and improving +still." That is the Curate's interpolation. The fact is, he must have +rhymed a passage from his last sermon; and it has somehow or other +slipped into his Catullus. + +CURATE.--No authority! What, then, is meant by "Quare si sapiet?" + +AQUILIUS.--Simply, if he would know the secret--the "cogitationes." + +GRATIAN.--I am inclined to agree with you. Now, Aquilius, we will listen +to your version. + + AQUILIUS. + + Hasten, papyrus! greet you well + That tender poet, my sweet friend + Caecilius--speedily I send, + As speedily my message tell: + That he should for Verona make + All haste--and quit his Larian Lake, + And Novum Comum--for I would + Some certain thoughts he understood + And purposes, that now possess + A friend of mine; and his no less. + And if he takes me rightly, say + His coming will devour the way, + Though that fair girl should bid him stay, + And round his neck her arms should throw, + And cry, Oh, do not, do not go!-- + That girl, who, if the truth be told, + E'en in her heart of hearts doth hold + And cherish such sweet love--since he + First read to her of Cybele, + "Great Queen of Dindymus" the tale + Begun. Oh, then she did inhale + The living breath of love, whose heat + Into her very life doth eat. + Thy passion I can well excuse, + Fair maid! more learn'd than the tenth muse, + The Lesbian maid--nor couldst thou fail + To find for love an ample plea, + In that so nobly open'd tale + Of the great Goddess Cybele. + +CURATE.--What's all this?--the "tenth muse!" where is she in the Latin? + +AQUILIUS.--_Sapphica musa_, Doctor. That is Sappho, is it not? and pray +was Sappho one of the _nine_ muses? No; then of course she was the +_tenth_--and was not she "the Lesbian maid?" + +CURATE.--Well, I admit it--you have vindicated your muse fairly, and I +will not pronounce against her, though tempted by an apt quotation from +the mouth of Bacchus, in the _Frogs_ of Aristophanes. + + "[Greek: Aute poth e Mouo ouk elesbiazen ou]." + +For your muse is certainly a Lesbian; but you have omitted "misellae," +which shows that the passion was not returned. + +GRATIAN.--I don't see that; for she throws her arms about his neck. But +neither of you have well spoken the "millies euntem revocet," the +calling him back after departure, and that is very good too. I see the +note upon _Sapphica Musa_, speaks of various interpretations to the +passage; but adopts this--that the maiden loving Caecilius has more sense +(is that _doctior_? I doubt) than Sappho, who loved a youth too stupid +ever to write a line; but this maid did not love till she had read the +commencement of his poem. I don't see the necessity for thinking the +passion hopeless either, because of the comparison with Sappho. Few +Roman maidens took the Leucadian leap. + +CURATE.--It is very odd, and might first appear a mark of their good +manners--that the Romans never mention "old maids." I fear there was +another cause. I suppose the omission may be accounted for by the state +of society, which was not favourable to their existence at all; for then +a man could put away his wife at any moment, and for any plea, most +women must have managed to get a husband for a long or a short time. + +AQUILIUS.--The only ancient old maids were the Fates and Furies--of the +latter, the burden of the song was-- + + "Oh no, we never mention them, + Their names are never heard!" + +GRATIAN.--Come back to your duty: we are wandering, and leaving Catullus +behind. What are we to have now? + +AQUILIUS.--An attack upon one Egnatius, who, having white teeth, took +care to show them upon all occasions. He was not, however, celebrated +for his tooth-powder. He is a fair mark for the wit of our author. The +arrow of his satire was occasionally keen enough and free to fly. + + IN EGNATIUM. + + Egnatius's teeth are very white, + And therefore is he ever grinning: + Let pleaders in the court excite + All hearts to weep--from the beginning + E'en to the end he laughs. The while + The mother on the funeral bier, + Sheds o'er her only son the tear, + Alone Egnatius seems to smile, + Then opes his mouth from ear to ear: + Where'er he is, whatever doing, + He laughs and grins. The thing in fact is + A tasteless, foolish, silly practice, + Egnatius, and well worth eschewing. + Spare all this risible exertion, + And were you Roman or Tiburtian, + Sabine, Lanuvian, fat Etruscan, + Or porcine Umbrian with rare show + Of tusks--columnar--order Tuscan: + Or born the other side the Po,} + (And my compatriot, therefore know,)} + Where folk are civilised I trow,} + And wash their teeth with water cleanly-- + Pure water such as folk might quaff-- + I would entreat you still--don't laugh. + You look so sillily, so meanly, + As if you were but witted half. + Yet being but a Celtiberian, + Holding the custom of your nation, + Using that lotion called Hesperian; + The more you grin, folk say, forsooth, + What pity 'tis the whitest tooth + Should have the foulest application! + +CURATE.--I did not translate--and our host will think one translation +quite enough. + +GRATIAN.--Go on then to the next. What are we to have? + +CURATE.--His address to his farm. Authors were happy in those days to +have their landed estate. Horace always speaks of his with delight; so +does Catullus, as we have seen, of his Sirmio. This farm was, it should +seem, like Horace's, among the Sabine hills. + + TO MY FARM. + + My farm! which those who wish to please + Thy master's heart, Tiburtian call; + But they who call thee Sabine, these + Respect his feelings not at all: + And wishing more to tease and fret, + Will wager thou art Sabine yet-- + How well it pleased me to retreat + To thy suburban country-seat; + Where I sent summarily off + That plaguy pulmonary cough; + Which, half-deserved, my stomach gave + Just for a hint no more to crave + Luxurious living. I had hoped + With a good dinner to have coped + At Sextius' table; when he read + A poisonous speech might strike one dead, + All gall and venom, to refute + One Attius in a certain suit. + Since when, a cold cough and catarrh + Against my battered frame made war; + Until I came in thee to settle, + And cured it with repose and nettle. + So, now I'm well, I thank thee, farm! + And that I got so little harm, + From such great fault. I may be pardon'd + If to this pitch my heart is harden'd: + To pray, when Sextius reads again + Things so abhorr'd of gods and men, + That that my cough and cold catarrh + Not mine but Sextius' health might mar-- + Who never sends me invitation + But for such wretched recitation. + +GRATIAN.--A charitable wish this of our good Catullus! But these +heathens knew little of "do as you would be done by." One of the neatest +wishes of this kind is in a Greek epigram. I can't remember word for +word the Greek, so I give the translation:--"Castor and Pollux, who +dwell in beauteous Lacedemon, by the sweet-flowing river Eurotas, if +ever I wish evil to my friend, may it light upon me; but if ever he +wishes evil to me, may he have twice as much." + +AQUILIUS.--In a note on _villae_, I see the derivation of that word +given, _quasi vehilla_, because there the fruits of the farm were +carried; so that the original idea of a villa was quite another thing +from the modern suburban construction. Architects, when they call these +suburban edifices villas, might as well remember how inappropriate is +the term. But here you have my version of this address to his farm:-- + + AD FUNDUM. + + My Farm, or Sabine or Tiburtian, + (What name I care not we confab in, + Though they who hold me in aversion, + Persist and wager you are Sabine,) + + In your suburban sweet recesses + Of that vile cough I timely rid me, + Merited well, for those excesses + My stomach failed not to forbid me, + + When I with Sextius was convivial, + Who feasting read me his invective, + Vilest, 'gainst Attius his rival, + All venom--and, alas! effective. + + For surely 'twas that poison seized me, + A chill--a heat--a cough then shook me + E'en to my vitals--and so teazed me, + That to thy bosom I betook me. + + Thanks, my good farm! my fault you pardon'd, + And not revenged. We've much to settle + On score of thanks: my chest you harden'd, + And healed with basil-root and nettle. + + But from henceforth, if I such vicious + Invectives read, though Sextius pen 'em, + Who but invites me with malicious + Intent to kill me with their venom-- + + If e'er I yield to his endeavour, + Expose me to his scrip infectious-- + I call down ague, cold, and fever, + Oh! fall ye not on me,--but Sextius. + +GRATIAN.--I see the next is that one which has been not unfrequently +translated and imitated. Is there not one by Cowley,--if I remember, +much lengthened? + +AQUILIUS.--It can scarcely be called a translation. The Latin measure is +certainly here very sweet and tender. + + DE ACME ET SEPTIMIO. + + Septimius, to his bosom pressing + His Acme, said, "I love thee, Acme-- + All my life-long will love thee, Acme! + Nor day shall come to love thee less in. + Or should it come, like common lover, + In such poor love I love thee only; + May Libyan lion dun discover, + Or torrid India's beast attack me, + Wandering forlorn from thee, and lonely + On desert shore."-- + He said: Love, as before, + Upon the left hand aptly sneezed. + The omen showed that he was pleased + To give his blessing. + + Then gentle Acme, softly turning + Upon the breast of her Septimius, + And unto his her face upraising, + And looking in his eyes so burning, + As if inebriate with gazing; + With that her rich red mouth she kissed them, + And said,--"My love, dear, dear Septimius! + Oh, let us serve our master duly-- + Our master Love, as now caressing; + For never yet have Love so blessed them + As now my thoughts he blesseth truly, + Even to my heart of hearts, Septimius, + The inmost core." + She said: and, as before, + Love on the left hand aptly sneezed. + The omen showed that he was pleased + To give his blessing. + + They loved--were loved: this sweet beginning + Omen'd their future bright condition. + Offer all Asia to Septimius-- + Add Britain--put in competition + With Acme--wretchedly abstemious + They'd call him of your gifts, Ambition. + The only province worth his winning + Is Acme: Acme's faithful bosom + Knows nought on earth but her Septimius. + Ripe was the fruit, as fair the blossom + Of this their mutual love, and glowing; + And all admired its freshness growing. + Was never pair so fond and loving! + And Venus' self looked on approving. + +CURATE.--Are you correct in your translation "Love, as before?" Is it +not that, as before he sneezed on the left, now he sneezes on the right +hand,--_was_ unfavourable--_is_ now propitious? + +GRATIAN.--I see in the note that the passage bears either construction. +There is also authority given; for what to us is the left hand, to the +gods is the right. Now, Curate, for your Acme and Septimius. + +CURATE.-- + + OF SEPTIMIUS AND ACME. + + Acme to Septimius' breast, + Darling of his heart, was prest-- + "Acme mine!" then said the youth, + "If I love thee not in truth, + If I shall not love thee ever + As a lover doated never, + May I in some lonely place, + Scorch'd by Ind's or Libya's sun, + Meet a lion's tawny face; + All defenceless, one to one."-- + Love, who heard it in his flight, + To the truth his witness bore, + Sneezing quickly to the right-- + (To the left he sneezed before.) + + Acme then her head reflecting, + Kiss'd her sweet youth's ebriate eyes, + With her rosy lips connecting + Looks that glistened with replies. + "Thus, my life, my Septimillus! + Serve we Love, our only master: + One warm love-flood seems to thrill us, + Throbs it not in me the faster?"-- + Love, who heard it in his flight, + To the truth his witness bore, + Sneezing quickly to the right-- + (To the left he sneezed before.) + + Thus with omens all-approving, + Each and both are loved and loving. + Poor Septimius with his Acme, + Cares not to whose lot may fall + Syria's glory--wealthy province!-- + Or both Britains great and small. + Acme, faithful and unfeigning, + Gives, creates, enjoys all pleasure, + With her dear Septimius reigning.-- + Oh! was ever earthly treasure + Greater to man's lot pertaining? + Blessed pair!--thus, without measure, + Venus' choicest gifts attaining. + +GRATIAN.--You have a little run riot, good Master Curate; and run out of +your rhyming course too, I see--for you don't mean "province" to rhyme +to "Acme."--I see the next is, On Approach of Spring--with that +beautiful line, "Jam ver egelidos refert tepores." I wish to see how you +would have translated that refreshing and cool warmth of +expression--almost a contradiction in terms--the season when we inhale +the heavenly air with the chill off--like hot tea thrown into a glass of +spring-cold water, and drank off immediately. + +AQUILIUS.--I gave it up in despair, and the Curate too has omitted it. +There are two other perhaps untranslatable lines in this short piece:-- + + "Jam mens praetrepidans avet vagari; + Jam laeti studio pedes vigescunt." + +After two other little pieces, we come to a few lines to no less a +personage than Marcus Tullius Cicero, who had probably in some cause +gratuitously assisted the poet with his eloquence; for to sue _in forma +poetae_, was, perhaps, pretty much the same as in _forma pauperis_. It +seems that "omnium patronus" was a flattering title on other occasions, +and by other persons bestowed upon Cicero, as well as by our poet here. +One would almost think the orator had served the poet an ill turn, and +that this superlative praise was but irony; for he not only calls +Tullius the most eloquent of men, but as much the best of patrons, as +he, Catullus, is the worst of poets. This surely must be a mock +humility. Is it a satire in disguise, and meaning the reverse? After +this, follows a little piece to his friend Cornellus Licinius Calvus, +with whom he had passed a pleasant and too exciting day--but let him +tell his own story. Shall I repeat? + + AD LICINIUM. + + My dear Licinius, yesterday + We sported in our pleasant way; + Tablets in hand--and at our leisure, + In verse as various as the measure, + Scribbling between our wine and laughter. + But when we parted, mark the after + Vexation;--conquered, and hard hit + By your all-overpowering wit, + I could not eat--nor yet would Sleep + His softly-soothing fingers keep + Upon my weary lids: all night} + I toss'd, I turned from left to right} + Impatient for the morning light,} + That I might talk with you, and be + Again in your society. + But when my limbs, as 'twere half dead, + Were lying on my restless bed, + I made these lines--which, my good friend, + That you may know my pains, I send. + Now, though so free, so bold to dare, + So apt to scoff--good sir, beware + Lest with the eye of your disdain + You view these lines, my vow, my pain. + Beware of Nemesis, beware!-- + For Vengeance, should I cry aloud-- + She hears--and punishes the proud. + +GRATIAN.--Those last lines are very grave: are they not too much so for +the intended play of this mock anger? Let us have your version, Master +Curate. + +CURATE.--I am sure you think one version quite enough. I did not +translate it; and believe we must now turn over many pages, and then I +have little more to offer. + +GRATIAN.--(Turning over the leaves of Catullus.) Here I see is that +beautiful passage in his "Carmen Nuptiale." + + "Ut flos in septis secretus nascitur hortis." + +AQUILIUS.--Which did not escape the tasteful, though bold Ariosto. I +have made a weak attempt to translate the passage; and as it stands in +the middle of a long piece, I have taken it out as a sonnet. I will read +it:-- + + UT FLOS IN SEPTIS, &C. + + As in enclosure of chaste garden ground, + The floweret grows--where nor unseemly tread + Of flocks or ploughshares bruise its tender head-- + There soft airs soothe it with their gentle sound; + Suns give it strength, and nurturing showers abound, + And raise its tall stem from its sheltered bed; + And many a youth and maiden, passion-led, + With longing eyes admiring walk around: + Pluck'd from the stem that its pure grace supplied, + Nor youths nor maidens love it as before. + So the sweet maiden, in the queenly pride + Of her chaste beauty, many hearts adore; + But that her virgin charter laid aside, + Who lov'd, who cherish'd, cherish, love no more. + +CURATE.--I remember Ariosto's translation--for translation it is; and +though you know it, I will repeat it, and, by Gratian's favour, let it +pass for my version. For once, borrowed plumes,--and I shall not be the +worse bird--though birds of richer plumage have no song. + + "La verginella e simile alla rosa, + Chi'n bel giardin su la nativa spina, + Mentre sola, e sicura si riposa, + Ne gregge, ne pastor sele avvicina; + L'aura soave, e l'alba rugidosa + L'acqua, la terra al suo favor s'inch a: + Giovani vaghi, e donne innamorate, + Amano averne e seni, e tempre ornate. + Ma non si tosto dal materno stelo, + Remossa viene, e dal suo ceppo verde, + Che, quanto avea dagli uomini, e dal cielo, + Favor, grazia, ebellezza, tutto perde." + +GRATIAN.--Let us examine the alterations made by one genius, in +transferring to his own language the ideas of another genius of another +country. Catullus says "the floweret,"--_flosculus_: Ariosto +particularises the rose,--the _bel giardin_, "the beautiful garden," +stands for _septis in hortis_, the enclosed. Then he has given the idea +of _secretus_, which is certainly "separated," "set apart," by the words +_sola e sicura_, "alone and safe"--is it so good? but he gives that a +grace, a beauty, the original perhaps has not, _riposa_--the floweret +enjoys its secret repose. The cutting down the flower by the plough was +unnecessary, after telling us of the enclosure; we scarcely like to be +brought suddenly into the ploughed field. Here Ariosto is better--"nor +shepherd nor flock come near it." That enough confirms the idea of its +being fenced off, and they wander in their idleness, or, but for the +fence, might have reached it; the plough and the team are a heavy +apparatus, and would be a most unexpected intrusion,--so I like the +Italian here better. Then, _su la nativa spina_ is good: you see the +beautiful creature on its native stem or thorn. Then for the enumeration +of the airs, the sun, and the shower, the Italian, in his beautiful +language, softens the very air, and gives it a sweetness, _l'aura +soave_, and ushers in "the dewy morn:" then, expanding to the glory of +the full reverence of nature to this emblem of purity, he makes all bend +and bow before it, as before the very queen of the earth. Here he +surpasses his original. Then he gives you the object of the wishes of +the youths and maidens, the _multi pueri multae optaverae puellae_. They +desire to place it in their bosoms or round their temples: and is not +the lovingness of the youths and maidens a good addition? The _giovani +vaghi e donne innamorate_. Both are admirable--but I incline to Ariosto. + +AQUILIUS.--And do you think the Latin poet the original? You forget how +little originality the Latin authors can claim. This of Catullus is a +translation--a free one, it is true--of perhaps a still more beautiful +passage in Euripides. Reach the book: you will find it in that very +singular play the Hippolytus. Ay, here it is. He offers the garland to +the virgin goddess Artemis--(line 73) + + [Greek: + "Soi tonde plekton stephanon ex akeratou + Leimonos, o despoina, kosmesas phero, + Enth' oute poimen axioi pherbein bota + Out' elthe po sideros, all' akeraton + Melissa leimon' erinon dierchetai + Aidos de potamiaisi kepeuei drosois. + Hosois didakton meden, all' en te physei + To sophronein eilechen es ta panth' homos, + Toutos drepesthai; tois kakoisi, d' ou themis."] + +"I bring thee, O mistress, this woven crown, beautifully made up of +flowers of the pure untouched meadow--where never shepherd thinks it +fitting to feed his flock, nor the sickle comes; but the bee ever passes +over the pure meadow breathing of spring, and modesty waters it as a +garden with the river-dews. To them who have, untaught, in their nature +the gift of chastity, to these only it is at all times an allowed +sanctity to cut these flowers, but not to the evil-minded." + +You cannot doubt that the passage in Catullus is taken from the +Greek--which is of a higher sentiment in the conclusion, and is enriched +beyond the Latin by the bee, and above all by the personification of +Modesty tending and watering the garden, or rather these especial +flowers, with the river-dews. + +CURATE.--How far more pure is the sentiment, and more quiet the imagery, +in the Greek! The Greeks were the great originators of glorious thought +and beautiful diction. + +GRATIAN.--Let us now to Catullus. What have we next? + +AQUILIUS.--Here is a tender little piece, to his friend Ortalus. I see +it has an omission: this edition does not supply it; I only take what I +see. It seems Ortalus had requested him to send him his translation from +Callimachus, the "Coma Berenices," which for some time, through grief +for the death of his brother, he had failed to do. He now sends the +poem. + + + AD ORTALUM. + + Though care, that unto me sore grief hath brought, + Calls me from converse with the sacred Nine, + Nor can my heart incline + To bring to any end inspired thought;-- + + (For now the wave of the Lethaean lake, + How recent hath it bathed in Death's dark vale + A brother's feet so pale; + And I can only sorrow for his sake. + + The Trojan land on the Rhoetean shore + Hath hidden him for ever from these eyes,-- + And I with glad surprise, + And brother's love, shall welcome thee no more. + + Loved more than life, dear brother! what can I + But love thee still, and mourn for thee full long + In a funereal song, + In secret to assuage my grief thereby? + + As amid many boughs all leaf-array'd + The Danlian bird, the nightingale, out-poured, + When Itys she deplored, + Her mellow sorrows in the thickest shade:) + + Yet, Ortalus, 'mid tears that flow so fast, + The work of your Battiades I send, + Lest you should deem, dear friend, + Your wishes to the winds are idly cast, + + And from my mind escaped, all unaware, + As falls the fruit, love's furtive gift, unbid, + In virgin bosom hid, + When she, forgetful of its lying there, + + Would suddenly arise, and run to greet + The coming of her mother, from her vest + And her now loosen'd breast, + The shameless apple rolls before her feet. + + And she, poor maid! abashed, and in the hush + Of shame, before her mother cannot speak, + While all her virgin cheek + Betrays her secret in the conscious blush. + +CURATE.--It is very tender--the last image is delicately beautiful. I +did not translate it. + +GRATIAN.--Pretty as the passage of the maiden's disaster in dropping the +lover's gift--and that, too, be it observed, in the hurry of her +tenderness, which increases the beauty, or rather accomplishes it--yet +is it not abrupt in a piece where there is the expression of so much +grief? Catullus was an affectionate man, more especially affectionate +brother; on other occasions, if I remember rightly, he deplores this +brother's loss. Now, Master Curate, what do you offer us? + +CURATE.--Not now a verse translation, but an observation on a little +piece of raillery, in which Catullus quizzes one Arrius for his +aspirating; and, I mean it not as a pun, exasperating, though it should +seem that his friends were not a little exasperated at his bad +pronunciation. Do we inherit from the Romans this, our (Cockneyism, I +was going to say, but it is too general to allow of such a limit,) +vulgarity of speech? "Where," says Catullus, "Arrius meant to say +commoda, he uttered it as c_h_ommoda, and _h_insidias for insidias, and +never thought he spoke remarkably well unless he laid great stress upon +the aspirate, calling it with emphasis _h_insidias. I believe his +mother, his uncle, his maternal grandfather and grandmother all spoke in +the same way. When the man went into Syria, all ears had a little rest, +and heard those words pronounced without this emphatic aspirate, and +began to entertain no fears respecting the use of the words; when on a +sudden they hear--that after Arrius had gone thither, the Ionian seas +were no longer Ionian, but Hionian." This is curious. As the Romans had +possession here more than four hundred years, did they leave us this +legacy? + +AQUILIUS--I will, then, give you versions of the two which immediately +follow. + + DE AMORE SUO. + + I love and hate. You ask me how 'tis so. + Small is the reason which I have to show: + I feel it to my cost--'tis all I know. + +Then follows a compliment, by comparison, to his Lesbia. + + DE QUINTIA ET LESBIA. + + Many think Quintia beautiful: she's tall, + And fair, and straight. I know, I grant it all, + When each particular beauty I recall; + + But I deny--when these are uncombined + To form a whole of beauty--and I find + So large a person with so small a mind. + + But Lesbia's perfect person is all soul, + Compact in beauty--as if grace she stole + From all the rest, and made herself one perfect whole. + +CURATE.--This is compliment enough as far as comparison goes--but he +pays her a much greater shortly after: for he loves her in their +greatest quarrels. + + OF LESBIA. + + "Lesbia mi dicit semper male." + + Lesbia's always speaking ill + Of me--her tongue is never still: + Yet may I die, but 'gainst her will, + She loves me, spite of her detraction. + + Why think I so? Because I blame + Her ways, abuse her just the same: + Yet howsoe'er I name her name, + I still love Lesbia to distraction. + +GRATIAN.--Perhaps the constancy was more to the credit of Lesbia than +Catullus. Now then, Aquilius. + +AQUILIUS.-- + + DE LESBIA. + + Lesbia speaketh ill of me + Ever--nought it moves me: + Say she what she will of me, + Yet I know she loves me. + + Why? Because in words of hate, + I am far before her; + Yet no jot of love abate, + Rather I adore her. + +CURATE.--I don't like "I am far before her." We say, "I am not behind" +in hate or love--I doubt "before." + +AQUILIUS.--Easily mended--thus then,-- + + Why? Because in words of hate + I go far beyond her, + Yet no jot of love abate-- + But still grow the fonder. + +GRATIAN.--Probatum est. + +AQUILIUS.--The Curate is too quick upon me. We must go back: he has left +out "De Inconstantia Feminei Amoris." + +CURATE.--True. Here is my version. Not being a happy subject, I passed +over it. + + OF WOMAN'S INCONSTANCY. + + My pretty she will none but me + For husband, though were Jove, her wooer. + So tells she me: but what a she + Says to her lover and pursuer, + Might well be written on the wind, + Or stream that leaves no track behind. + +AQUILIUS.--I object to "pretty she," for _mulier_. I think, however, +that _mulier_ here is a word of contempt. I make it out thus: + + DE INCONSTANTIA FEMINEI AMORIS. + + She says--the woman says--she none would wed + But me, though Jove came suitor to her bed; + She says--but, oh! what woman says--so fair, + And smooth to doting man, is writ on air, + And on the running stream that changeth every where. + +AQUILIUS.--We have seen much of our friend Catullus as a loving poet, +let us end by showing him to have been a good hater. The following is no +bad specimen of his powers in this line:-- + + IN COMINIUM. + + If you, Cominius, old, defiled + With every vice, contemn'd, and hoary, + From your vile life were once exiled, + Your carcass beasts would mar--grim, wild. + Vultures that tongue, defamatory + Of all the gentle, good, and mild; + And with those eyes, that all detest, + Pluck'd from their hateful sockets gory, + Crows cram their maws, or feed their nest, + And hungry wolves devour the rest! + +It was now time, Eusebius, to conclude for the night, and, indeed, to +put our Catullus upon his shelf again. Before separating, we reminded +Gratian that he was the arbiter, and must make his award. "I remember +well," said he; "and you, Aquilius, made, I think, this my baculus the +staff of office. A good umpire might, not very improperly, give the +stick to you both, breaking it equally, "secundum artem baculinam." But +it is a good, useful staff to me; we have had some rubs together, and I +won't part with it. True, it has not unfrequently rubbed my pigs' backs, +and shall again. But _the_ pig Aquilius has made his acquaintance with, +has grunted out all his happy days; and, to do him all honour, I have +sacrificed him upon this occasion, to appease the manes of the Latin +poet in his anger at your bad translations. But for yourselves, I have +still something to award. My pig has two cheeks--there is one for each, +and you shall have them put before you at breakfast to-morrow morning; +and thus, I think, you will agree with me that I have duly countenanced +you both. And I hope my pig will have both sharpened your appetites and +your wit, 'sus Minervam.' Good-night! + + 'To-morrow to fresh fields and turnips new.'" + + +POSTSCRIPT. + +I here send you, Eusebius, the last of our Horae Catullianae, which has +been lying by a week or more. This little delay enables me to wind up +the Curate's affair to your satisfaction. Our friend Gratian gave +verbally the Bishop's reply to Mathew Miffins, who, seeing himself +deserted by his principal witness and informer, Prateapace, was not +sorry to veer round with the weather-cock, and was obsequiously civil. +It was characteristic of our friend Gratian, that he should settle it as +he did with that huckster. Going through, as it is called, the main +street, I saw him engaged with Miffins, in his shop, and went in. He was +talking somewhat familiarly with the man--of all subjects, on what do +you suppose?--on fishing. Gratian had been a great fisherman in his day, +as his rheumatic pains can now testify. As he afterwards told me, +fearing he might have given the Bishop's message rather sharply, and not +liking to pain the man, he turned off the subject, and talked of +fishing, to which he knew Miffins was addicted; and so it ended by +Gratian's obtaining his good-will for ever, for he sent him some choice +hackles. Prateapace and Gadabout have returned to the church, whereupon +the Rev. the cow-doctor has stirred up the wrath of the chapel by a very +strong discourse upon backsliding. A poor woman spoke of it as very +affecting, adding, "Some loves 'sons of consolation,' but I loves 'sons +of thunder.'" Doubtless there was lightning too; and there is of that +vivid kind which bewilders and leaves all darker than before. The Curate +_has_ found bouquets in the vestry and the desk, and has been in danger +of becoming "a popular." + +A subscription has actually been set on foot, by Nicholas Sandwell, at +the instigation, it is said, of certain ladies, and even encouraged by +Miffins, to purchase a coffee-pot and tea-spoons for the Curate; but an +event a few days ago has put an end to the affair, and given rather a +new turn to the parochial feelings. This event is of such moment, that I +ought, perhaps, to have told you of it at first--but I should have +spoiled my romance, my novel--and what is any writing without a tale in +it worth now-a-days? The Curate, then, is actually married--even since +the termination of the Horae Catullianae. + +Miss Lydia, ("alas, false man!" sighed some one,) of the family at +Ashford, is the happy bride. The Curate had unexpectedly come into a +very decent independence; and is, and will be for ever after, according +to the usual receipt, happy. + +Since this event, the bouquets have ceased to be laid in the vestry and +the desk. Lydia Prateapace has been heard to say she should not wonder +if all was true after all, and affects to be glad, for propriety's sake, +that they _are_ married. Gadabout runs every where repeating what +Prateapace said; and Brazenstare looks audacious indifference, and once +stared in the Curate's face and asked him how many Misses Lydia there +might be of his acquaintance. My dear Eusebius, + + "So goes the world, and such the Play of Life. + This loves to make, and t'other mends a strife; + Old fools write rhymes--the Curate takes a wife." + + Yours ever, AQUILIUS. + + + + +PROSPER MERIMEE. + + +Rarely, in these days of profuse and unscrupulous scribbling, do we find +an author giving the essence, not a dilution, of his wit, learning, and +imagination, dispensing his mental stores with frugal caution, instead +of lavishing them with reckless prodigality. Such a one, when met with, +should be made much of, as a model for sinners in a contrary sense, and +as a bird of precious plumage. Of that feather is Monsieur Prosper +Merimee. He plays with literature, rather than professes it; it is his +recreation, not his trade; at long intervals and for a brief space, he +turns from more serious pursuits to coquet with the Muse, not frankly to +embrace her. Willing though she be, he will not take her for a lawful +spouse and constant companion, but courts her _par amours_. The +offspring of these moments of dalliance are buxom and _debonair_, of +various but comely aspect. In two-and-twenty years he has written less +than the average annual produce of many of his literary countrymen. In +several paths of literature, he has essayed his steps and made good a +footing; in not one has he continuously persevered, but, although +cheered by applause, has quickly struck into another track, which, in +its turn, has been capriciously deserted. His "Studies of Roman history" +give him an honourable claim to the title of historian; his "Notes of +Archaeological Rambles" are greatly esteemed; he has written plays; and +his prose fictions, whether middle-age romance or novel of modern +society, rank with the best of their class. He began his career with a +mystification. His first work greatly puzzled the critics. It professed +to be a translation of certain comedies, written by a Spanish actress, +whose fictitious biography was prefixed and signed by Joseph L'Estrange, +officer in the Swiss regiment of Watteville. This imaginary personage +had made acquaintance with Clara Gazul in garrison at Gibraltar. Nothing +was neglected that might perfect the delusion and give success to the +cheat; fragments of old Spanish authors were prefixed to each play, +showing familiarity with the literature of the country; the style, tone, +and allusions were thoroughly Spanish; and, through the French dress, +the Castilian idiom seemed here and there to peep forth, confirming the +notion of a translation. Clara was an Andalusian, half gipsy, half Moor, +skilled in guitars and castanets, saynetes and boleros. L'Estrange makes +her narrate her own origin. + +"'I was born,' she told us, 'under an orange-tree, by the roadside, not +far from Motril, in the kingdom of Granada. My mother was a +fortune-teller, and I followed her, or was carried on her back, till the +age of five years. Then she took me to the house of a canon of Granada, +the licentiate Gil Vargas, who received us with every sign of joy. +Salute your uncle, said my mother. I saluted him. She embraced me, and +departed. I have never seen her since.' And to stop our questions, Dona +Clara took her guitar and sang the gipsy song, _Cuando me pario mi +madre, la gitana_." + +Biography and comedies were so skillfully got up, the deception was so +well combined, that the reviewers were put entirely on a wrong scent. +Two years later, M. Merimee was guilty of another harmless literary +swindle, entitled La Guzla, a selection of Illyrian poems, said to be +collected in Bosnia, Dalmatia, &c., but whose real origin could be +traced no further than to his own imagination. Although the name was a +manifest anagram of Gazul, the public were gulled. The deceit was first +unmasked in Germany, we believe, by Goethe, to whom the secret had been +betrayed. Thenceforward the young author was content to publish under +his own name works of which he certainly had no reason to be ashamed. +One of the earliest of these was, "La Jacquerie"--a sort of long +melodrama, or series of scenes, illustrating feudal aggressions and +cruelties in France, and the consequent peasant revolts of the +fourteenth century. It shows much historical research and care in +collection of materials, is rich in references to the barbarous customs +and strange manners of the times, and, like the "Chronicle of Charles +IX.," another historical work of M. Merimee's, has, we suspect, been +found very useful by more recent fabricators of romances. + +Educated for the bar, but not practising his profession, M. Merimee was +one of the rising men of talent whom the July revolution pushed forward. +After being _chef de cabinet_ of the Minister of the Interior, Count +d'Argout, he held several appointments under government, amongst others, +that of Inspector of Historical Monuments, an office he still retains. +In 1844 he was elected to a chair in the French Academy, vacant by the +death of the accomplished Charles Nodier. He has busied himself much +with archaeological researches, and the published results of his travels +in the west of France, Provence, Corsica, &c., are most learned and +valuable. In the intervals of his antiquarian investigations and +administrative labours, he has thrown off a number of tales and +sketches, most of which first saw the light in leading French +periodicals, and have since been collected and republished. They are all +remarkable for grace of style and tact in management of subject. One of +the longest, "Colomba," a tale of Corsican life, is better known in +England than its author's name. It has been translated with accuracy and +spirit, and lately has been further brought before the public, on the +boards of a minor theatre, distorted into a very indifferent melodrama. +The Corsican Vendetta has been taken as the basis of more than one +romantic story, but, handled by M. Merimee, it has acquired new and +fascinating interest; and he has enriched his little romance with a +profusion of those small traits and artistical touches which exhibit the +character and peculiarities of a people better than folios of dry +description. "La Double Meprise," another of his longer tales, is a +clever _novelette_ of Parisian life. According to English notions its +subject is slippery, its main incident, and some of its minor details, +improbable and unpleasant, although so neatly managed that one is less +startled when reading them than shocked on after-reflection. It +certainly requires skilful management to give an air of probability to +such a scene as is detailed in chapter five. A French _gentleman_, a man +of fortune and family, mixing in good society, is anxious for an +appointment at court, and to obtain it he reckons much on the influence +and good word of a certain Duke of H----. There is a benefit night at +the Opera, and the young wife of the aspirant to court honours has a +box. Between the acts her husband, who has unwillingly accompanied her, +rambles about the house, and discovers the Duke in an inconvenient +corner, where he can see nothing. His grace is not alone, but in the +society of his kept-mistress. To propitiate his patron, the unscrupulous +husband introduces him and his companion into the box of his +unsuspecting wife! The sequel may be imagined; the stare and titter of +acquaintances, the supercilious gratitude of the Duke, the astonishment +of the lady at the singular tone of the pretty and elegantly dressed +woman with whom she is thus unexpectedly brought in contact, and whose +want of _usage_ bespeaks, as she imagines, the newly arrived provincial. +All this, which might pass muster in a novel depicting the manners and +morals of the Regency, is rather violent in one of our day; but yet, so +cleverly are the angles of improbability draped and softened down, the +reader perseveres. The plot is very slight; the tale scarcely depends on +it, but is what the French call a _tableau de moeurs_, with less +pretensions to the regular progress and catastrophe of a novel, than to +be a mirror of everyday scenes and actors on the bustling stage of Paris +life. The characters are well drawn, the dialogues witty and dramatic, +the book abounds in sly hits and smart satire; but its bitterness of +tone injured its popularity, and, unlike its author's other tales, it +met little success. The opening chapter is a picture of a lively +Parisian _menage_, such as many doubtless exist; a striking example of a +_mariage de convenance_, or mis-match. + +"Six years had elapsed since the marriage of Julie de Chaverny, and +five years and six months, or thereabouts, since she had discovered that +it was impossible for her to love her husband, and very difficult to +esteem him. He was not a bad man, neither could he be called stupid, nor +even silly; she had once thought him agreeable; now she found him +intolerably wearisome. To her every thing about him was repulsive and +unpleasant. His most trifling actions, his way of eating, of taking +coffee, of talking, gave her umbrage and irritated her nerves. Except at +table, the pair scarcely saw or spoke to each other; but they dined +together several times a-week, and that sufficed to keep up the sort of +hatred Julie entertained towards her husband. + +"As to Chaverny, he was rather a handsome man, a little too corpulent +for his time of life, with a fresh complexion, full-blooded, and by no +means subject to those vague uneasinesses which sometimes torment +persons of more intellectual organisation. Piously convinced that his +wife's sentiments towards him were those of tender friendship, the +conviction caused him neither pleasure nor pain. Had he known Julie's +feelings to be of an opposite nature, it would have made little +difference to his happiness. He had served several years in a cavalry +regiment, when he inherited a considerable fortune, became disgusted +with garrison life, resigned his commission, and took a wife. It seems +difficult to explain the marriage of two persons who had not an idea in +common. On the one hand, a number of those officious friends and +relations, who, as Phrosine says, would marry the republic of Venice to +the Grand Turk, had taken much pains to arrange it: on the other, +Chaverny was of good family; before his marriage he was not too fat; he +was gay and cheerful, and what is called a _good fellow_. Julie was glad +to see him at her mother's house, because he made her laugh with +anecdotes of his regiment, droll enough, if not always in the best +taste. She found him amiable, because he danced with her at every ball, +and was always ready with excellent reasons to persuade her mother to +remain late at theatre or party, or at the _Bois de Boulogne_. Finally, +she thought him a hero, because he had fought two or three creditable +duels. But what completed his triumph, was the description of a certain +carriage, to be built after a plan of his own, and in which he was to +drive Julie, as soon as she consented to become Madame de Chaverny. + +"A few months of married life, and Chaverny's good qualities had lost +much of their merit. He no longer danced with his wife--that of course. +His funny stories had long been thrice told. He complained that balls +lasted too late; at the theatre he yawned; the custom of dressing for +the evening he found an insufferable bore. Laziness was his bane; had he +endeavoured to please, perhaps he would have succeeded, but the least +exertion or restraint was torture to him, as to most fat persons. He +found it irksome to go into society, because there the manner of one's +reception depends on the efforts one makes to please. A rude joviality +suited him better than refined amusements; to distinguish himself +amongst persons of a similar taste to his own, he had only to talk and +laugh louder than his companions--and that he did without trouble, for +his lungs were remarkably vigorous. He also prided himself on drinking +more champagne than most men could support, and on leaping his horse +over a four-foot wall in true sporting style. To these various +accomplishments he was indebted for the friendship and esteem of the +indefinable class of beings known as 'young men,' who swarm upon our +_boulevards_ towards eight in the evening. Shooting parties, country +excursions, races, bachelors' dinners and suppers, were his favourite +pastimes. Twenty times a-day he declared himself the happiest of +mortals; and when Julie heard the declaration, she cast her eyes to +heaven, and her little mouth assumed an expression of indescribable +contempt." + +We turn to another of M. Merimee's books, in our opinion his best, an +historical romance, entitled 1572, a "Chronicle of the Reign of Charles +the Ninth." "In history," says the author in his preface, "I care only +for the anecdotes, and prefer those in which I fancy I discover a true +picture of the manners and characters of a particular period. This is +not a very elevated taste; but I own, to my shame, that I would +willingly give the whole of Thucydides for an authentic memoir of +Aspasia, or of one of Pericles' slaves. Memoirs, the familiar gossip of +an author with his reader, alone supply those individual portraits that +amuse and interest me. It is not from Mezerai, but from Montlue, +Brantome, D'Aubigne, Tavannes, La Noue, &c., that one forms a just idea +of the French of the sixteenth century. From the style of those +contemporary authors, we learn as much as from the substance of their +narratives. In L'Estoile, for instance, I read the following concise +note. 'The demoiselle de Chateau-neuf, one of the king's _mignonnes_, +before he went to Poland, having espoused, _par amourettes_, the +Florentine Antinotti, officer of the galleys at Marseilles, and +detecting him in an intrigue, slew him stoutly with her own hand.' By +the help of this anecdote, and of similar ones, which abound in +Brantome, I make up a character in my head, and resuscitate a lady of +Henry the Third's court." The "Chronicle" is the result of much reading +and combination of the kind here referred to; and M. Merimee has even +been accused of adhering too closely to reality, to the detriment of the +poetical character of his romance. He does not make his heroes and +heroines sufficiently perfect, or his villains sufficiently atrocious, +to suit the palate of some critics, but depicts them as he finds +evidence of their having existed--their virtues obscured by the coarse +manners and loose morality, their crimes palliated by the religious +antipathies and stormy political passions of a semi-civilised age. He +declines judging the men of the sixteenth century according to the ideas +of the nineteenth. And, with regard to minor matters, he does not, like +some of his contemporaries, place in the mouth of a Huguenot leader, or +a _Guisarde_ countess, the tame and dainty phrase appropriate enough in +that of an equerry, or lady of the bed-chamber at the court of the +Citizen King. Eschewing conventionality, and following his own judgment, +and the guidance of the old chroniclers, in whose quaint records he +delights, he has written one of the best existing French historical +romances. + +It would have been easy for a less able writer than M. Merimee to have +extended the "Chronique" to thrice its present length. It is not a +complete romance, but a desultory sketch of the events and manners of +the time, with a few imaginary personages introduced. Novel readers who +require a regular _denoument_ will be disappointed at its conclusion. +There is not even a hint of a wedding from the first page to the last; +and the only lady who plays a prominent part in the story, a certain +countess Diane de Turgis, is little better than she should be. And yet, +if we follow M. Merimee's rule, and judge her according to the ideas and +morals of the age she flourished in, she was rather an amiable and +proper sort of person. True, she sets her lovers by the ears, and feels +gratified when they cut each other's throats: she even challenges a +court dame, who has taken the precedence of her, to an encounter with +sword and dagger, _en chemise_, according to the prevailing mode amongst +the _raffines_, or professed duellists of the time; and she writes +seductive billets-doux in Spanish, and gives wicked little suppers to +the handsome cavalier on whom her affections are set. But, on the other +hand, she goes to mass, and confesses, and does her best to save her +Huguenot lover's body and soul, and obtain the remission of her own sins +by converting him from his heresy. So that, as times went in the year +1572, she was to be reckoned amongst the righteous. The handsome +heretic, in whose present safety and future salvation she takes so +strong an interest, is one Bernard de Mergy, who has come to Paris to +take service with the great chief of his co-religionists, Admiral +Coligny. His brother, George de Mergy, has deserted the creed of Calvin, +and is consequently in high favour at the Louvre, but under the ban of +his father, a stern old Huguenot officer, who will not hear the name of +his renegade son. Bernard, whilst regretting his brother's apostasy, +does not deem it necessary to shun his society. On the road he has been +cajoled or robbed of his ready cash by a pretty gipsy girl, and his +good horse has been stolen by one of the hordes of German lanzknechts, +whom the recent civil war had brought to France. He reaches Paris with +an empty purse, and is not sorry to meet his brother, who welcomes him +kindly, and supplies his wants, but refuses to recant, and attempts to +justify his backsliding. In the course of his defence he gives an +insight into the prevalent corruption of the time, and shows how the +private vices of great political leaders often marred the fortunes of +their party. + +"'You were still at school,' said De Mergy, 'learning Latin and Greek, +when I first donned the cuirass, girded the Huguenot's white scarf, and +took share in our civil wars. Your little Prince of Conde, who has led +his party into so many errors, looked after your affairs when his +intrigues left him time. A lady loved me; the prince asked me to resign +her to him; I refused, and he became my mortal enemy. From that hour he +lost no opportunity of mortifying me. + + Ce petit prince si joli + Qui toujours baise sa mignonne, + +held me up to the fanatics of the party as a monster of libertinism and +irreligion. I had only one mistress; and as to the irreligion,--I let +others do as they like, why attack me?' + +"'I thought the prince incapable of such baseness,' said Bernard. + +"'He is dead,' replied his brother, 'and you have deified him. 'Tis the +way of the world. He had great qualities; he died like a brave man, and +I have forgiven him. But then he was powerful, and on the part of a poor +gentleman like myself, it was guilt to resist him. All the preachers and +hypocrites of the army set upon me, but I cared as little for their +abuse as for their sermons. At last one of the prince's gentlemen, to +curry favour with his master, called me libertine, before all our +captains. I struck him: we fought--and he was killed. At that time there +were a dozen duels a day in the army, and no notice taken. In my favour +an exception was made; I was fixed upon by the prince to serve as an +example. The entreaties of the other leaders, including the Admiral, +procured my pardon. But the prince's rancour was not yet appeased. At +the fight of Jazeneuil, I commanded a company: I had been foremost in +the skirmish; my cuirass battered and broken by bullets, my left arm +pierced by a lance, showed that I had not spared myself. I had only +twenty men left, and a battalion of the king's Swiss guards advanced +against us. The Prince of Conde ordered me to charge them; I asked for +two companies of _reitres_, and--he called me coward.' + +"Mergy rose and approached his brother with an expression of strong +interest. The Captain continued--his eyes flashing with anger at the +recollection of the insult:-- + +"'He called me coward before all those popinjays in gilt armour who +afterwards abandoned him on the battle-field of Jarnac. I resolved to +die, and rushed upon the Swiss--vowing, if I escaped with life, never +again to draw sword for that unjust prince. Grievously wounded, thrown +from my horse, one of the Duke of Anjou's gentlemen, Beville--the mad +fellow whom we dined with to-day--saved my life, and presented me to the +duke. He treated me well. I was eager for vengeance. They urged me to +take service under my benefactor, the Duke of Anjou; they quoted the +line-- + + Omne solum forti patria est, ut piscibus aequor. + +I was indignant to see the Protestants summoning foreigners to their +assistance. But why disguise the real motive that actuated me? I +thirsted for revenge, and became a Catholic, in hopes of meeting the +Prince of Conde in fair fight, and killing him. A coward forestalled me, +and the manner of the prince's death almost made me forget my hatred. I +saw his bloody corpse abandoned to the insults of the soldiery; I +rescued it from their hands, and covered it with my cloak. I was pledged +to the Catholics; I commanded a squadron of their cavalry; I could not +leave them. I have happily been able to render some service to my former +party; I have done my best to soften the fury of religious animosities, +and have been fortunate enough to save several of my friends.' + +"'Oliver de Basseville tells every body he owes you his life.' + +"'Behold me then a Catholic,' continued George, in a calmer voice. 'The +religion is as good as another: and then it is an easy and pleasant one. +See yonder pretty Madonna: 'tis the portrait of an Italian courtesan; +but the bigots praise my piety when I cross myself before it. My word +for it, I get on vastly better with Rome than Geneva. By making trifling +sacrifices to the opinions of the _canaille_, I live as I like. I must +go to mass--very good! I go there and stare at the pretty women. I must +have a confessor--_parbleu!_ I have one, a jolly Franciscan and +ex-dragoon, who for a crown-piece gives me a ticket of confession, and +delivers my billets-doux to his pretty penitents into the bargain. _Mort +de ma vie! Vive la messe!_' + +"Mergy could not restrain a smile. + +"'There is my breviary,' continued the Captain, throwing his brother a +richly-bound book, fastened with silver clasps, and enclosed in a velvet +case. 'Such a missal as that is well worth your prayer-books.' + +"Mergy read on the back of the volume, _Heures de la Cour_. + +"'The binding is handsome,' he said, disdainfully returning the book. + +"The Captain smiled, and opening it again handed it to him. Mergy then +read upon the first page: _La vie tres-horrifique du grand Gargantua, +pere de Pantagruel: composee par M. Alcofribas, abstracteur de +Quintessena._" + +Thus, in a single page, does M. Merimee place before us a picture of the +times, with their mixture of fanaticism and irreligion, their shameless +political profligacy and private immorality. Bernard de Mergy cannot +prevail with his brother to return to the conventicle: so he accompanies +him to mass--not to pray, but hoping to obtain a glimpse of Madame de +Turgis, whom he has already seen masked in the street, and whose +graceful form and high reputation for beauty have made strong impression +on the imagination of this novice in court gallantries. On entering the +sacristy, they find the preacher, a jolly monk, surrounded by a dozen +young rakes, with whom he bandies jokes more witty than wise. + +"'Ah,' cried Beville, 'here is the Captain! Come, George, give us a +text. Father Lubin has promised to preach on any one we propose.' + +"'Yes,' said the monk; 'but make haste. _Mort de ma vie!_ I ought to be +in the pulpit already.' + +"'Peste! Father Lubin, you swear like the king,' cried the Captain. + +"I bet he would not swear in his sermon,' said Beville. + +"'Why not, if the fancy took me?' stoutly retorted the Franciscan. + +"'Ten pistoles you do not.' + +"'Ten pistoles? Done.' + +"'Beville,' cried the Captain, 'I go halves in your wager.' + +"'No, no!' replied his friend, 'I will not share the reverend's money; +and if he wins, by my faith! I shall not regret mine. An oath in pulpit +is well worth ten pistoles.' + +"'They are already won,' said Father Lubin; 'I begin my sermon with +three oaths. _Ah! Messieurs les Gentilhommes_, because you have rapier +on hip, and plume in hat, you would monopolise the talent of swearing. +We will see.' + +"He left the sacristy, and in an instant was in his pulpit. There was +silence in the church. The preacher scanned the crowded congregation as +though seeking his bettor; and when he discovered him leaning against a +column exactly opposite the pulpit, he knit his brows, put his arms +akimbo, and in an angry tone thus began: + +"'My dear Brethren, + +"_'Par la vertu!--par la mort!--par le sang!'_-- + +"A murmur of surprise and indignation interrupted the preacher, or, it +were more correctly said, filled up the pause he intentionally left. + +"---- 'de Dieu,' continued the Franciscan, in a devout nasal whine, 'we +are saved and delivered from punishment.' + +"'A general burst of laughter interrupted him a second time. Beville +took his purse from his girdle, and shook it at the preacher, as an +admission that he had lost." + +The sermon that follows is in character with its commencement. Whilst +awaiting its conclusion, Bernard de Mergy in vain seeks the Countess de +Turgis; it is only when leaving the church that his brother points her +out to him. She is escorted by a young man, of slight figure and +effeminate mien, dressed with studied negligence. This is the terrible +Count de Comminges, the duellist of the day, the chief of those +_raffines_ who fought on every pretext, and often on no pretext at all. +He had had nearly a hundred duels, and a challenge from him was held +equivalent to a ticket for the hospital, if not to sentence of death. +"Comminges once summoned a man to the Pre-aux-Clercs, then the classic +duelling-ground. They stripped off their doublets, and drew their +swords. 'Are you not Berny of Auvergne?' inquired Comminges. 'Certainly +not,' replied his antagonist; 'my name is Villequier, and I am from +Normandy.' 'So much the worse,' quoth Comminges, 'I took you for another +man; but since I have challenged you, we must fight.' They fought +accordingly, and the unlucky Norman was killed." Since the death of a +Monsieur de Lannoy, slain at the siege of Orleans, Madame de Turgis is +without a lover. Comminges aspires to the vacant post; his attentions +are rather tolerated than encouraged; but he seems determined that if he +does not succeed, nobody else shall, for he has constituted himself her +constant attendant, and a wholesome dread of his formidable rapier keeps +off rivals. He has sworn to kill all who present themselves. + +By the interest of Coligny, whom Charles the Ninth affects to favour +whilst he plots his death, Bernard de Mergy receives a commission in the +army preparing for a campaign in Flanders. He goes to court to thank the +king, and the following scene passes. + +"The court was at the Chateau de Madrid. The queen-mother, surrounded by +her ladies, waited in her apartment for the king to come to breakfast. +The king, followed by the princes, slowly traversed the gallery, in +which were assembled the nobles and gentlemen who were to accompany him +to the chase. With an absent air he listened to the remarks of his +courtiers, and made abrupt replies. When he passed before the two +brothers, the Captain bent his knee, and presented the newly-made +officer. Mergy bowed profoundly, and thanked his majesty for the favour +shown him before he had earned it. + +"'Ha! it is you of whom my father the Admiral spoke! You are Captain +George's brother?' + +"'Yes, sire.' + +"'Catholic or Protestant?' + +"'Sire, I am a Protestant.' + +"'I ask from idle curiosity. The devil take me if I care of what +religion are those who serve me well.' + +"And having uttered these memorable words, the king entered the queen's +apartments. A few moments later, a swarm of ladies spread themselves +over the gallery, as if sent to enable the gentlemen to wait with +patience. I shall speak but of one of the beauties of that court, where +they so greatly abounded; of the Countess de Turgis, who plays an +important part in this history. She wore an elegant riding-dress, and +had not yet put on her mask. Her complexion, of dazzling but uniform +whiteness, contrasted with her jet-black hair; her well-arched +eye-brows, slightly joining, gave a proud expression to her physiognomy, +without diminishing its graceful beauty. At first, the sole expression +of her blue eye seemed one of disdainful haughtiness; but when animated +in conversation, their pupils, dilated like those of a cat, seemed to +emit sparks, and few men, even of the most audacious, could long sustain +their magical power. + +"'The Countess de Turgis--how lovely she looks!' murmured the courtiers, +pressing forward to see her better. Mergy, close to whom she passed, was +so struck by her beauty, that he forgot to make way till her large +silken sleeves rustled against his doublet. She remarked his emotion +without displeasure, and for a moment deigned to fix her magnificent +eyes on those of the young Protestant, who felt his cheek glow under her +gaze. The Countess smiled and passed on, letting one of her gloves fall +before our hero, who, still motionless and fascinated, neglected to pick +it up. Instantly a fair-haired youth, (it was no other than Comminges,) +who stood behind Mergy, pushed him rudely in passing before him, seized +the glove, kissed it respectfully, and presented it to Madame de +Turgis. Without thanking him, the lady turned towards Mergy with a look +of crushing contempt; and, observing Captain George at his side, +'Captain,' said she, very loud, 'where does that great clown spring +from? He must be some Huguenot, judging from his courtesy.' + +"The laughter of the bystanders completed the embarrassment of the +unlucky Bernard. + +"'He is my brother, madam,' was George's quiet reply; 'he has been three +days at Paris, and, by my honour! he is not more awkward than Lannoy +was, before you undertook his education.' + +"The Countess coloured slightly. 'An unkind jest, Captain,' she said: +'Speak not ill of the dead. Give me your hand; I have a message to you +from a lady whom you have offended.' + +"The Captain respectfully took her hand, and led her to the recess of a +distant window. Before she reached it, she once more turned her head to +look at Mergy. + +"Still dazzled by the apparition of the beautiful Countess, whom he +longed to look at, but dared not, Mergy felt a gentle tap upon his +shoulder. He turned and beheld the Baron de Vaudreuil, who drew him +aside, to speak to him, as he said, without fear of interruption. + +"'My dear fellow,' the Baron began, 'you are a stranger at court, and +are probably not yet acquainted with its customs?' + +"Mergy looked at him with astonishment. + +"'Your brother is engaged, and not able to advise you; if agreeable to +you I will replace him. You have been gravely insulted; and seeing you +in this pensive attitude, I doubt not you meditate revenge.' + +"'Revenge?--on whom?' cried Mergy, reddening to the very white of his +eyes. + +"'Were you not just now rudely pushed aside by little Comminges? The +whole court witnessed the affront, and expect you to notice it +suitably.' + +"'But,' said Mergy, 'in so crowded a room as this an accidental push is +nothing very extraordinary.' + +"'M. de Mergy, I have not the honour to be intimate with you: but your +brother is my particular friend, and he will tell you that I practise as +much as possible the divine precept of forgiveness of injuries. I do not +wish to embark you in a bad quarrel, but at the same time it is my duty +to tell you that Comminges did not push you accidentally. He pushed you, +because he wished to insult you; and if he had not pushed you, you would +still be insulted; for, by picking up Madame de Turgis's glove, he +usurped your right. The glove was at your feet, _ergo_ it was for you +alone to raise and return it. And you have but to look around; you will +see Comminges telling the story and laughing at you.' + +"Mergy turned about. Comminges was surrounded by five or six young men, +to whom he laughingly narrated something which they listened to with +curious interest. Nothing proved that his conduct was under discussion; +but at the words of his charitable counsellor, Mergy felt his heart +swell with fury. + +"'I will speak to him after the hunt,' he said, 'and he shall tell me--' + +"'Oh! never put off a good resolution; besides, you offend Heaven much +less in challenging your adversary immediately after the offence than in +doing it when you have had time to reflect. In a moment of irritation, +which is but a venial offence, you agree to fight; and if you afterwards +fulfil your agreement, it is only to avoid committing a far greater sin, +that of breaking your word. But, I forget that you are a Protestant. +Nevertheless, arrange a meeting with him at once. I will bring you +together.' + +"'I trust he will not refuse to make a fitting apology.' + +"'Undeceive yourself, comrade. Comminges never yet said, I was wrong. +But he is a man of strict honour, and will give you every satisfaction.' + +"Mergy made an effort to suppress his emotion and assume an indifferent +air. + +"'Since I have been insulted,' he said, 'I must have satisfaction. And +whatever kind may be necessary, I shall know how to insist upon it.' + +"'Well spoken, my brave friend; your boldness pleases me, for you of +course know that Comminges is one of our best swordsmen. _Par ma foi!_ +he handles his blade right cunningly. He took lessons at Rome, of +Brambilla, and Petit-Jean will fence with him no longer.' And whilst +speaking, Vaudreuil attentively watched the countenance of Mergy, who +was pale, but from anger at the offence offered him rather than from +apprehension of its consequences. + +"'I would willingly be your second in this affair, but I take the +sacrament to-morrow, and, moreover, I am engaged to M. de Rheincy, and +cannot draw sword against any but him.'[B] + +"'I thank you, sir. If necessary, my brother will second me.' + +"'The Captain is perfectly at home in these affairs. Meanwhile, I will +bring Comminges to speak with you.' + +"Mergy bowed, and turning to the wall, did his best to compose his +countenance and arrange what he should say. There is a certain grace in +giving a challenge, which habit alone bestows. It was our hero's first +affair, and he was a little embarrassed; he was less afraid of a +sword-thrust than of saying something unbecoming a gentleman. He had +just succeeded in composing a firm and polite sentence, when Baron de +Vaudreuil, taking him by the arm, drove it out of his head. + +"'You desire to speak to me, sir?' said Comminges, hat in hand, and +bowing with an impertinent politeness, which brought an angry flush upon +Mergy's countenance. + +"'I hold myself insulted by your behaviour,' the young Protestant +instantly replied, 'and I desire satisfaction.' + +"Vaudreuil nodded approvingly; Comminges drew himself up, and placing +his hand on his hip, the prescribed posture in such circumstances, +replied with much gravity: + +"'You constitute yourself demander, sir, and, as defendant, I have the +choice of arms.' + +"'Name those you prefer.'" + +Comminges reflected for an instant. "'The _estoc_,' he at last said, 'is +a good weapon, but it makes ugly wounds; and at our age,' he added, with +a smile, 'one is not anxious to appear before one's mistress with a +scarred countenance. The rapier makes a small hole, but it is enough.' +And he again smiled, as he said, 'I choose rapier and dagger.' + +"'Very good,' said Mergy, and he took a step to depart. + +"'One moment!' cried Vaudreuil; 'you forget the place of meeting.' + +"'The Court uses the Pre-aux-Clercs,' said Comminges; 'and if the +gentleman has no particular preference----' + +"'The Pre-aux-Clercs--be it so.' + +"'As to the time, I shall not be up before eight o'clock, for reasons of +my own--you understand--I do not sleep at home to-night, and cannot be +at the Pre before nine.' + +"'Let nine be the hour.' + +"Just then Mergy perceived the Countess de Turgis, who had left the +Captain in conversation with another lady. As may be supposed, at sight +of the lovely cause of this ugly affair, our hero threw into his +countenance an additional amount of gravity and feigned indifference. + +"'Of late,' said Vaudreuil, 'it is the fashion to fight in crimson +drawers. If you have none, I will send you a pair. They look clean, and +do not show blood. And now,' continued the Baron, who appeared quite in +his element, 'nothing remains but to fix upon your seconds and thirds.' + +"'The gentleman is a new comer at Court' said Comminges, 'and perhaps +might have difficulty in finding a third. Out of consideration for him I +will content myself with a second.' + +"With some difficulty, Mergy contracted his lips into a smile. + +"'Impossible to be more courteous,' said the Baron. 'It is really a +pleasure to deal with so accommodating a cavalier as M. de Comminges.' + +"'You will require a rapier of the same length as mine,' resumed +Comminges; 'I can recommend you Laurent, at the Golden Sun, Rue de la +Feronnerie; he is the best armourer in Paris. Tell him you come from me, +and he will treat you well.' Having thus spoken, he turned upon his +heel, and rejoined the group he had lately left. + +"'I congratulate you, M. Bernard,' said Vaudreuil; 'you have acquitted +yourself admirably. Exceedingly well, indeed. Comminges is not +accustomed to hear himself spoken to in that fashion. He is feared like +fire, especially since he killed Canillac; for as to St Michel, whom he +killed a couple of months ago, he did not get much credit by that. St +Michel was not particularly skilful, whilst Canillac, had already slain +five or six antagonists, without receiving a scratch. He had studied at +Naples under Borelli, and it was said that Lansac had bequeathed him the +secret thrust with which he did so much harm. To be sure,' continued the +Baron, as if to himself, 'Canillac had pillaged the church at Auxerre, +and trampled on the consecrated wafers: no wonder he was punished.' + +"Mergy, although far from amused by this conversation, thought himself +bound to continue it, lest a suspicion offensive to his courage should +occur to Vaudreuil. + +"'Fortunately,' he replied, 'I have pillaged no church, and never +touched a consecrated wafer in my life; so I have a risk the less to +run.' + +"'Another caution. When you cross swords with Comminges, beware of one +of his feints, which cost Captain Tomaso his life. He cried out that the +point of his sword was broken. Tomaso instantly guarded his head, +expecting a cut; but Comminges's sword was perfect enough, for it +entered, to within a foot of the hilt, Tomaso's breast, which he had +exposed, not anticipating a thrust. But you fight with rapiers, and +there is less danger.' + +"'I will do my best.' + +"'Ah! one thing more. Choose a dagger with a strong basket-hilt; it is +very useful to parry. I owe this scar on my left hand to having gone out +one day without a poniard. Young Tallard and myself had a quarrel, and +for want of a dagger, I nearly lost my hand.' + +"'And was he wounded?' inquired Mergy. + +"'I killed him, thanks to a vow I made to St Maurice, my patron. Have +some linen and lint about you, it can do no harm. One is not always +killed outright. You will do well also to have your sword placed on the +altar during mass. But you are a Protestant. Yet another word. Do not +make it a point of honour not to retreat; on the contrary, keep him +moving; he is short-winded; exhaust his breath, and, when you find your +opportunity, one good thrust in the breast and your man is down.' + +"There is no saying how long the Baron would have continued his valuable +advice, had not a great sounding of horns announced that the King was +about to take horse. The door of the apartment opened; and his Majesty +and the Queen-mother made their appearance, equipped for the chase. +Captain George, who had just left his lady, joined his brother, and +clapped him joyously on the shoulder. + +"'By the mass!' he cried, 'thou art a lucky rogue! Only see this +youngster, with his cat's mustache; he has but to show himself, and all +the ladies are mad after him. The handsome Countess has been talking +about you for the last quarter of an hour. Come, good courage! During +the hunt, keep by her stirrup, and be as gallant as you can. But what +the devil's the matter with you? Are you ill? You make as long a face as +a preacher at the stake. _Morbleu!_ cheer up, man!' + +"'I have no great fancy to hunt to-day,' said Bernard; 'and I would +rather--' + +"'If you do not hunt,' whispered Vaudreuil, 'Comminges will think you +are afraid.' + +"'I am ready,' said Mergy, passing his hand across his burning brow, and +resolved to wait till after the hunt to inform his brother of his +adventure. 'What disgrace,' thought he, 'if Madame de Turgis suspected +me of fear; if she supposed that the idea of an approaching duel +prevented my enjoying the chase.' + +"During the hunt, Bernard swerves not from the side of the Countess, who +accords him various marks of favour, and finally dismisses Comminges, +who has also escorted her, and has a _tete-a-tete_ ride with her new +admirer. She well knows that a duel is in the wind, and dreads it, for +Mergy's sake. Hopeless of his escape with life from the projected +combat, she tries at least to save his soul, and makes a bold attempt at +his conversion. But on that head he is deaf even to _her_ voice. +Baffled, she essays a compromise. + +"'You heretics have no faith in relics?' said Madame de Turgis. + +"Bernard smiled. + +"'And you think yourselves defiled by touching them?' she continued. +'You would not carry one, as we Roman Catholics are wont to do?' + +"'We hold the custom useless, to say the least.' + +"'Listen. A cousin of mine once attached a relic to his hound's neck, +and at twelve paces fired at the dog an arquebuse charged with slugs.' + +"'And the dog was killed?' + +"'Not touched.' + +"'Wonderful! I would fain possess such a relic.' + +"'Indeed!--and you would carry it?' + +"'Undoubtedly--since the relic saved the dog, it would of course--But +stay, is it quite certain that a heretic is as good as a Catholic's +dog?' + +"Without listening to him, Madame de Turgis hastily unbuttoned the top +of her closely fitting habit, and took from her bosom a little gold box, +very flat, suspended by a black ribbon. 'Here,' she said,--'you promised +to wear it. You shall return it me one day.' + +"'Certainly. If I am able.' + +"'But you will take care of it? No sacrilege! You will take the greatest +care of it!' + +"'I have received it from you, madam.' + +"She gave him the relic, and he hung it round his neck. + +"'A Catholic would have thanked the hand that bestowed the holy +talisman.' + +"Mergy seized her hand, and tried to raise it to his lips. + +"'No, no! it is too late.' + +"'Say not so! Remember, I may never again have such fortune.' + +"'Take off my glove,' said the lady. Whilst obeying, Mergy thought he +felt a slight pressure. He imprinted a burning kiss on the white and +beautiful hand." + +"Frank and free were the dames of the ninth Charles's court. Faithless +in the virtues of the relic, feverishly excited by the novelty of his +situation, and by the preference the Countess has shown him, which has +given life a tenfold value in his eyes, Mergy passes an agitated and +sleepless night. When the Louvre clock strikes eight, his brother enters +his apartment, bringing the necessary weapons, and vainly endeavouring +to conceal his sadness and anxiety. Bernard examines the sword and +dagger, the manufacture of the famous Luno of Toledo. + +"'With such good arms,' he said, 'I shall surely be able to defend +myself.' Then showing the relic given him by Madame de Turgis, and which +he wore concealed in his bosom, 'Here too,' he added with a smile, 'is a +talisman better than coat of mail against a sword-thrust.' + +"'Whence have you the bauble?' + +"'Guess.' And the vanity of appearing favoured by the fair, made him for +a moment forget both Comminges and the duelling sword that lay naked +before him. + +"'I would wager that crazy Countess gave it you! May the devil confound +her and her box!' + +"'It is a relic for protection in to-day's encounter.' + +"'She had better have worn her gloves, instead of parading her fine +white fingers.' + +"'God preserve me,' cried Mergy, blushing deeply, 'from believing in +Papist relics. But if I fall to-day, I would have her know that I died +with this upon my heart.' + +"'Folly!' cried the Captain, shrugging his shoulders. + +"'Here is a letter for my mother,' said Mergy, his voice slightly +tremulous. George took it without a word, and approaching the table, +opened a small Bible, and seemed busy reading whilst his brother +completed his toilet. On the first page that offered itself to his eyes, +he read these words in his mother's handwriting; '1st May 1549, my son +Bernard was born. Lord, conduct him in thy ways! Lord, shield him from +all harm!' George bit his lip violently, and threw down the book. +Bernard observed the gesture, and imagining that some impious thought +had come into his brother's head, he gravely took up the Bible, put it +in an embroidered case, and locked it in a drawer, with every mark of +great respect. + +"'It is my mother's Bible,' he said. + +"The Captain paced the apartment, but made no reply." + +According to the established rule in such cases--a rule laid down for +the especial behoof, benefit, and accommodation of romance writers--the +hero of a hundred duels falls by the maiden sword of the tyro, who +escapes with a slight wound. So signal a triumph makes the reputation of +Mergy. His wound healed, and all danger of persecution by the powerful +family of Comminges at an end, he reappears at court, and finds that he +has in some sort inherited the respect and consideration formerly shown +to his defunct rival. The politeness of the _raffines_ is as +overpowering as their envy is ill concealed; and, as to the ladies, in +those days the character of a successful duellist was a sure passport to +their favour. The raw provincial, so lately unheeded, has but to throw +his handkerchief, now that he has dabbled it in blood. But the only one +of these sanguinary sultanas on whom Mergy bestows a thought, is not to +be found. In vain does he seek, in the crowd of beauties who court his +gaze, the pale cheek, blue eyes, and raven hair of Madame de Turgis. +Soon after the duel, she had left Paris for one of her country seats, a +departure attributed by the charitable to grief at the death of +Comminges. Mergy knows better. Whilst laid up with his wound, and +concealed in the house of an old woman, half doctress, half sorceress, +he detected a masked lady, whom he recognised as De Turgis, performing +for his cure, with the assistance of the witch, certain mysterious +incantations. They had procured Comminges's sword, and rubbed it with +scorpion oil, "the sovereign'st thing on earth" to heal the wound the +weapon had inflicted. And there was also a melting of a wax figure, +intended as a love charm; and from all that passed, Bernard could not +doubt that the Countess had set her affections on him. So he waits +patiently, and one morning, whilst his brother is reading the "Vie +tres-horrifique de Pantagruel," and he himself is taking a guitar lesson +from the Signor Uberto Vinibella, a wrinkled duenna brings him a scented +note, closed with a gold thread, and a large green seal, bearing a Cupid +with finger on lips, and the Spanish word, _Callad_, enjoining silence. + +The best picture of the massacre of St Bartholomew we have read in a +book of fiction, is given by M. Merimee, in small compass and without +unnecessary horrors. Less than an hour before its commencement, the +Countess informs her lover of the fate reserved for him and all of his +faith. She urges and implores him to abjure his heresy; he steadfastly +refuses--and she, her love redoubled by his courageous constancy, +conceals him from the assassins. In the disguise of a monk, he escapes +from Paris, and makes his way to La Rochelle, the last stronghold of the +persecuted Protestants. On the road, he falls in with another refugee, +the _lanzknecht_ Captain Dietrich Hornstein, similarly disguised and +bound to the same place. There is an excellent scene at a country inn, +where four ruffians, their hands reeking with Protestant blood, compel +the false Franciscans to baptise a pair of pullets by the names of carp +and perch, that they may not sin by eating fowl on Friday. Mergy at last +loses patience, and breaks a bottle over one of their heads; and a fight +ensues, in which the bandits are worsted. The two Huguenots reach La +Rochelle, which is soon afterwards besieged by the king's troops. In a +sortie, Bernard forms an ambuscade, into which his brother unfortunately +falls, and receives a mortal wound. Taken into La Rochelle, he is laid +upon a bed to die; and, refusing the spiritual assistance of Catholic +priest and Protestant minister, he accelerates his death by a draught +from Hornstein's wine flask, and strives to comfort Bernard, who is +frantic with remorse. + +"He again closed his eyes, but soon re-opened them and said to Mergy: +'Madame de Turgis bade me assure you of her love.' He smiled gently. +These were his last words. In a quarter of an hour he died, without +appearing to suffer much. A few minutes later Beville expired in the +arms of the monk, who afterwards declared that he had distinctly heard +in the air the cries of joy of the angels who received the soul of the +penitent, whilst subterraneous demons responded with a yell of triumph +as they bore away the spiritual part of Captain George." + +"It is to be seen in any history of France, how La Noue left La +Rochelle, disgusted with civil wars and tormented by his conscience, +which reproached him for bearing arms against his king; how the Catholic +army was compelled to raise the siege, and how the fourth peace was +made, soon followed by the death of Charles IX. + +"Did Mergy console himself? Did Diana take another lover? I leave it to +the decision of the reader, who thus will end the romance to his own +liking." + +By his countrymen, M. Merimee's short tales are the most esteemed of his +writings. He produces them at intervals much too long to please the +editor and readers of the periodical in which they have for some time +appeared,--the able and excellent _Revue des Deux Mondes_. Once in +eighteen months, or two years, he throws a few pages to the public, +which, like a starved hound to whom a scanty meal is tossed, snaps +eagerly at the gift whilst growling at the niggardliness of the giver: +and the publisher of the _Revue_ knows that he may safely print an extra +thousand copies of a number containing a novel by Prosper Merimee. Now +and then, M. Merimee comes out with a criticism of a foreign book. His +last was a review of "Grote's Greece," and he has also written a paper +on "Borrow's Spanish Rambles." A man of great erudition and extensive +travel, he is thoroughly master of many languages, and, in writing about +foreign countries and people, steers clear of the absurd blunders into +which some of his contemporaries, of respectable talents and +attainments, not unfrequently fall. His English officer and lady in +Colomba are excellent; very different from the absurd caricatures of +Englishmen one is accustomed to see in French novels. He is equally +truthful in his Spanish characters. A great lover of things Spanish, he +has frequently visited, and still visits, the Peninsula. In 1831 he +published, in the _Revue de Paris_, three charming letters from Madrid. +The action of most of his tales passes in Spain or Corsica, or the South +of France, although he now and then dashes at Parisian society. With +this he has unquestionably had ample opportunity to become acquainted, +for he is a welcome guest in the best circles of the French capital. +Still we must hope there is some flaw in the glasses through which he +has observed the gay world of Paris. The "Vase Etrusque" is one of his +sketches of modern French life, in the style of the "Double Meprise," +but better. It is a most amusing and spirited tale, but unnecessarily +immoral. Had the heroine been virtuous, the interest of the story would +in no way have suffered, so far as we can see; and that which attaches +to her, as a charming and unhappy woman, would have been augmented. This +opinion, however, would be scoffed at on the other side of the Channel, +and set down as a piece of English prudery. And perhaps, instead of +grumbling at M. Merimee for making the Countess Mathilde the mistress of +Saint Clair--which nothing compelled him to do--we ought thankfully to +acknowledge his moderation in contenting himself with a quiet intrigue +between unmarried persons, instead of favouring us with a flagrant case +of adultery, as in the "Double Meprise," or initiating us into the very +profane mysteries of _operatic figurantes_, as in "Arsene Guillot." Even +in France, where he is so greatly and justly admired, this last tale was +severely censured, as bringing before the public eye phases of society +that ill bear the light. Fidelity to life in his scenes and characters +is a high quality in an author, and one possessed in a high degree by M. +Merimee; but he has been sometimes too bold and cynical in the choice +and treatment of his subjects. "_La Partie de Tric-trac_," and +"_L'Enlevement de la Redoute_," are amongst his happiest efforts. Both +are especially remarkable for their terse and vigorous style. We have +been prodigal of extracts from "Charles IX."--for it is a great +favourite of ours--and, although well known and much esteemed by all +habitual readers of French novels, it is hitherto, we believe, +untranslated into English. But we shall still make room for-- + + +THE STORMING OF THE REDOUBT. + +"I rejoined the regiment on the evening of the 4th September. I found +the colonel at the bivouac. At first he received me rather roughly; but +after reading General B's. letter of recommendation, he changed his +manner, and spoke a few obliging words. He presented me to my captain, +who had just returned from a reconnoissance. This captain, whom I had +little opportunity to become acquainted with, was a tall dark man, of +hard and repulsive physiognomy. He had been a private soldier, and had +won his cross and his epaulets on the battle-field. His voice, hoarse +and weak, contrasted strangely with his gigantic stature. They told me +he was indebted for this singular voice to a bullet that had passed +completely through his body at Jena. + +"On hearing that I came from the school at Fontainbleau, he made a wry +face, and said, 'My lieutenant died yesterday.'--I understood that he +meant to say, 'You are to replace him, and you are not able.' A sharp +word rose to my lips, but I repressed it. + +"The moon rose behind the redoubt of Cheverino, situate at twice +cannon-shot from our bivouac. She was large and red, as is common at her +rising; but that night she seemed to me of extraordinary size. For an +instant the black outline of the redoubt stood out against the moon's +brilliant disc, resembling the cone of a volcano at the moment of an +eruption. + +"An old soldier who stood near me, noticed the colour of the moon. 'She +is very red,' he said; ''tis a sign that yon famous redoubt will cost us +dear.' I was always superstitious, and this augury, just at that moment, +affected me. I lay down, but could not sleep; I got up and walked for +some time, gazing at the immense line of fires covering the heights +beyond the village of Cheverino. + +"When I deemed my blood sufficient cooled by the fresh night air, I +returned to the fire, wrapped myself carefully in my cloak, and shut my +eyes, hoping not to re-open them till daylight. But sleep shunned me. +Insensibly my thoughts took a gloomy turn. I said to myself, that I had +not one friend amongst the hundred thousand men covering that plain. If +I were wounded, I should be in an hospital, carelessly treated by +ignorant surgeons. All that I had heard of surgical operations returned +to my memory. My heart beat violently; and mechanically I arranged, as a +species of cuirass, the handkerchief and portfolio that I carried in the +breast of my uniform. I was overwhelmed by fatigue, and continually fell +into a doze, but as often as I did so, some sinister idea awoke me with +a start. Fatigue, however, at last got the upper hand, and I was fast +asleep when the _reveille_ sounded. We formed up, the roll was called, +then arms were piled, and according to all appearance the day was to +pass quietly. + +"Towards three o'clock an aid-de-camp arrived with an order. We resumed +our arms; our skirmishers spread themselves over the plain; we followed +slowly; and in twenty minutes we saw the Russian pickets withdraw to the +redoubt. A battery of artillery took post on our right hand, another on +our left, but both considerably in advance. They opened a vigorous fire +upon the enemy, who replied with energy, and soon the redoubt of +Cheverino disappeared behind a cloud of smoke. + +"Our regiment was almost protected from the Russian fire by a ridge. +Their bullets, which seldom came in our direction--for they preferred +aiming them at the artillery--passed over our heads, or at most sent +earth and pebbles in our faces. + +"When we had received the order to advance, my captain looked at me with +an attention which made me pass my hand two or three times over my young +mustache, in the most cavalier manner I could assume. I felt no fear, +save that of being thought to feel it. These harmless cannon-balls +contributed to maintain me in my heroic calmness. My vanity told me that +I ran a real danger, since I was under fire of a battery. I was +enchanted to feel myself so much at my ease, and I thought with what +pleasure I should narrate the capture of the redoubt of Cheverino in the +drawing-room of Madame de B----, Rue de Provence. + +"The colonel passed along the front of our company and spoke to me. +'Well!' he said, 'you will see sharp work for your first affair.' + +"I smiled most martially, and brushed my coat-sleeve, on which a ball, +fallen about thirty paces from me, had sent a little dust. + +"It seems the Russians perceived how small was the effect of their round +shot, for they replaced them by shells, which could reach us better in +the hollow where we were posted. A tolerably large fragment of one of +these knocked off my shako and killed a mail beside me. + +"'I congratulate you,' said the captain, as I picked up my shako. 'You +are safe for to-day.' I knew the military superstition which holds the +maxim _Non bis in idem_ to be as applicable on a battle-field as in a +court of justice. I proudly replaced my shako on my head. 'An +unceremonious way of making people bow,' said I, as gaily as I could. +Under the circumstances, this poor joke appeared excellent. 'I +congratulate you,' repeated the captain; 'you will not be hit again, and +to-night you will command a company, for I feel that my turn is coming. +Every time I have been wounded, the officer near me has received a spent +ball, and,' he added in a low voice, and almost ashamed, 'all their +names began with a P.' + +"I affected to laugh at such superstitions. Many would have done as I +did--many would have been struck, as I was, by these prophetic words. As +a raw recruit I understood that I must keep my feelings to myself, and +always appear coldly intrepid. + +"After half an hour the Russian fire sensibly slackened; then we emerged +from our cover to march against the redoubt. Our regiment was composed +of three battalions. The second was charged to take the redoubt in flank +on the side of the gorge; the two others were to deliver the assault. I +was in the third battalion. + +"On appearing from behind the sort of ridge that had protected us, we +were received by several volleys of musketry, which did little harm in +our ranks. The whistling of the bullets surprised me: I turned my head +several times, thus incurring the jokes of my comrades, to whom the +noise was more familiar. 'All things considered,' said I to myself, 'a +battle is not such a terrible thing.' + +"We advanced at storming pace, preceded by skirmishers. Suddenly the +Russians gave three hurras, very distinct ones, and then remained +silent, and without firing. 'I don't like that silence,' said my +captain. 'It bodes us little good.' I thought our soldiers rather too +noisy, and I could not help internally comparing the tumultuous clamour +with the imposing stillness of the enemy. + +"We rapidly attained the foot of the redoubt: the palisades had been +broken, and the earth ploughed by our cannonade. With shouts of '_Vive +l'Empereur!_' louder than might have been expected from fellows who had +already shouted so much, our soldiers dashed over the ruins. + +"I looked up, and never shall I forget the spectacle I beheld. The great +mass of smoke had arisen, and hung suspended like a canopy twenty feet +above the redoubt. Through a gray mist were seen the Russian grenadiers, +erect behind their half-demolished parapet, with levelled arms, and +motionless as statues. I think I still see each individual soldier, his +left eye riveted on us, the right one hidden by his musket. In an +embrasure, a few feet from us, stood a man with a lighted fuse in his +hand. + +"I shuddered, and thought my last hour was come. 'The dance is going to +begin,' cried my captain. Good-night.' They were the last words I heard +him utter. + +"The roll of drums resounded in the redoubt. I saw the musket muzzles +sink. I shut my eyes, and heard a frightful noise, followed by cries and +groans. I opened my eyes surprised to find myself still alive. The +redoubt was again enveloped in smoke. Dead and wounded men lay all +around me. My captain was stretched at my feet; his head had been +smashed by a cannon-ball, and I was covered with his blood and brains. +Of the whole company, only six men and myself were on their legs. + +"A moment of stupefaction followed this carnage. Then the colonel, +putting his hat on the point of his sword, ascended the parapet, crying +'_Vive l'Empereur!_' He was instantly followed by all the survivors. I +have no clear recollection of what then occurred. We entered the +redoubt, I know not how. They fought hand to hand in the middle of a +smoke so dense that they could not see each other. I believe I fought +too, for my sabre was all bloody. At last I heard a shout of victory, +and, the smoke diminishing, I saw the redoubt completely covered with +blood and dead bodies. About two hundred men in French uniform stood in +a group, without military order, some loading their muskets, others +wiping their bayonets. Eleven Russian prisoners were with them. + +"Our colonel lay bleeding on a broken tumbril. Several soldiers were +attending to him, as I drew near--'Where is the senior captain?' said he +to a sergeant. The sergeant shrugged his shoulders in a most expressive +manlier. 'And the senior lieutenant?' 'Here is _Monsieur_, who joined +yesterday,' replied the sergeant, in a perfectly calm tone. The colonel +smiled bitterly. 'You command in chief, sir,' he said to me; 'make haste +to fortify the gorge of the redoubt with those carts, for the enemy is +in force; but General C. will send you a support.'--'Colonel,' said I, +'you are badly wounded.'--'_Foutre, mon cher_, but the redoubt is +taken.'" + +"Carmen," M. Merimee's latest production, appeared a few months since in +the _Revue des Deux Mondes_, which appears to have got the monopoly of +his pen, as it has of many of the cleverest pens in France. "Carmen" is +a graceful and animated sketch, in style as brilliant as anything by the +same author--in the character of its incidents less strikingly original +than some of his other tales. It is a story of Spanish life, not in +cities and palaces, in court or camp, but in the barranca and the +forest, the gipsy suburb of Seville, the woodland bivouac and smuggler's +lair. Carmen is a gipsy, a sort of Spanish Esmeralda, but without the +good qualities of Hugo's charming creation. She has no Djali; she is +fickle and mercenary, the companion of robbers, the instigator of +murder. She inveigles a young soldier from his duty, leads him into +crime, deceives and betrays him, and finally meets her death at his +hand. M. Merimee has been much in Spain, and--unlike some of his +countrymen, who apparently go thither with the sole view of spying out +the nakedness of the land and making odious comparisons, and who, in +their excess of patriotic egotism, prefer Versailles to the Alhambra, +and the Bal Mabille to a village _fandango_--he has a vivid perception +of the picturesque and characteristic, of the _couleur locale_, to use +the French term, whether in men or manners, scenery or costume, and he +embodies his impressions in pointed and sparkling phrase. As an +antiquarian and linguist, he unites qualities precious for the due +appreciation of Spain. Well-versed in the Castilian, he also displays a +familiarity with the Cantabrian tongue--that strange and difficult +_Vascuense_ which the Evil One himself, according to a provincial +proverb, spent seven years of fruitless labour in endeavouring to +acquire. And he patters Romani, the mysterious jargon of the gitanos, in +a style no way inferior--so far as we can discover--to Bible Borrow +himself. That gentleman, by the bye, when next he goes a missionarying, +would find M. Merimee an invaluable auxiliary, and the joint narrative +of their adventures would doubtless be in the highest degree curious. +The grave earnestness of the Briton would contrast curiously with the +lively half-scoffing tone of the witty and learned Frenchman. Indeed, +there would be danger of persons of such opposite character falling out +upon the road, and fighting a mortal duel, with the king of the gipsies +for bottle-holder. The proverbial jealousy between persons of the same +trade might prove another motive of strife. Both are dealers in the +romantic. And "Carmen," related as the personal experience of the author +during an archaeological tour in Andalusia the autumn of 1830, is as +graphic and fascinating as any chapters of the great tract-monger's +remarkable wanderings. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[B] It was a rule with the _raffines_ not to commence a new quarrel so +long as there was an old one to terminate. + + + + +HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND LIVE IN IT. + + +NO. III. + +Having disposed of two grand categories of mistakes and absurdities in +house-building, viz., lightness of structure and badness of material, we +shall now address ourselves more particularly to the defects of +Arrangement and Form, or, as an architect might term it, to the +discussion of Plan and Elevation. The former task was ungrateful enough; +for therein we had to attack the cupidity and meanness, and the desire +for show and spurious display, which is the besetting sin of every +Englishman who pays poor-rates; but, the present undertaking is hardly +less hopeless, for we have to appeal to the intelligence, not only of +architects and builders, but also of those who commission them. + +Now, there is nothing drier and more unprofitable under the sun, nothing +more nearly approaching to a state of addle, than a builder's brains. +Your regular builders (and, indeed, not a few of your architects) are +the sorriest animals twaddling about on two legs; mere vivified bags of +sawdust, or lumps of lath and plaster, galvanised for a while, and +forming themselves into strange, uncouth, unreasonable shapes. A mere +"builder" has not two ideas in his head; he has only one; he can draw +only one "specification," as he calls it, under different forms; he can +make only one plan; he has one set of cornices always in his eye; one +peculiar style of panel; one special cut of a chimney. You may trace him +all through a town, or across a county, if his fame extends so far; a +dull repetition of the same notion characterises all his works. He +served his apprenticeship to old Plumbline, in Brick Lane; got up the +_Carpenter's Vade-Mecum_ by heart; had a little smattering of drawing +from Daub the painter, and then set up in business for himself. As for +Mr Triangle the architect, who built the grand town-hall here, the +other-day, in the newest style of Egyptian architecture, and copied two +mummies for door-posts, and who is now putting up the pretty little +Gothic church for the Diocesan Church-and-Chapel-Building and +Pew-Extension Society, with an east window from York, and a spire from +Salisbury, and a west front from Lincoln--why, he is the veriest stick +of a designer that ever applied a T-square to a stretching-board. He has +studied Wilkins's Vitruvius, it is true, and he has looked all through +Hunt's Tudor Architecture, but his imagination is as poor as when he +began them; he has never in his life seen one of the good buildings he +is pirating from, barring St Paul's and Westminster Abbey; he knows +nothing finer than Regent Street and Pall-Mall, and yet he pretends to +be a modern Palladio. It will not do, all this sham and parade of +knowledge; we want a new generation, both of architects and builders, +before we shall see any thing good arising in the way of houses--but as +this new progeny is not likely to spring up within a few days, nor even +years, we may as well buckle to the task of criticism at once, and find +out faults, which we shall leave others to mend. + +And, to lay the foundation of criticism in such matters once more and +for ever, let us again assert that good common-sense, and a plain +straight-forward perception of what is really useful, and suited to the +wants of climate and locality, are worth all the other parts of any +architect's education. These are the great qualities, without which he +will take up his rulers and pencils in vain; without them, his ambitious +_facades_ and intricate plans will all come to nothing, except dust and +rubbish. He may draw and colour like Barry himself; but unless he has +some spark of the genius that animated old Inigo and Sir Christopher, +some little inkling of William of Wickham's spirit within him, some +sound knowledge of the fitness and the requirements of things, he had +better throw down his instruments, and give it up as a bad job; he'll +only "damn himself to lasting shame." + +A moderate degree of science, an ordinarily correct eye, so as to tell +which is straightest, the letter I or the letter S, and a good share of +plain common-sense--these are the real qualifications of all architects, +builders, and constructors whatsoever. + +One other erroneous idea requires to be upset; the notion that our +modern houses, merely because they are recent, are better built and more +convenient than ancient ones. If there be one thing more certain than +another in the matter, it is this, that a gentleman's house built in +1700, is far handsomer, stronger, and more convenient, than one built in +1800; and not only so, but if it had had fair play given it, would still +outlive the newer one, and give it fifty years to boot;--and also that +another house built in 1600, is stronger than the one raised in 1700, +and has still an equal chance of survivorship; but that any veteran +mansion which once witnessed the year 1500, is worth all the other three +put together--not only for design and durability, but also for comfort +and real elegance. Pick out a bit of walling or roofing some four or +five centuries old, and it would take a modern erection of five times +the same solidity to stand the same test of ages. + +Let it not be supposed that our ancestors dwelt in rooms smaller, or +darker, or smokier, than those we now cram ourselves into. Nothing at +all of the kind; they knew what ease was, better than we do. They had +glorious bay-windows, and warm chimney-corners, and well-hung buttery +hatches, and good solid old oak tables, and ponderous chairs: had their +windows and doors been only a little more air-tight, their comforts +could not have been increased. + +First of all, then, with regard to the plans best suited for the country +residences of the nobility and gentry of England--of that high-minded +and highly gifted aristocracy, which is the peculiar ornament of this +island,--of that solid honest squirearchy, which shall be the +sheet-anchor of the nation, after all our commercial gents, with their +ephemeral prosperity, shall have disappeared from the surface of the +land, and have been forgotten,--the plan of a house best suited for the +"Fine old English Gentleman;" and we really do not care to waste our +time in considering the convenience and the taste of any that do not +rank with this class of men. It is absurd for any of the worthy members +of that truly noble and generous class of men, to try to erect +reminiscences of Italy, or any other southern clime, amid their own +"tall ancestral groves" at home, here in old England. They have every +right in the world to inhabit the palaces of Italy, which many a needy +owner is glad to find them tenanting; they cannot but admire the noble +proportions, the solid construction, the magnificent decorations, which +meet their eyes on every side, whether at Genoa, at Verona, at Venice, +at Florence, or at Rome. But it by no means follows, that what looks so +beautiful, and is so truly elegant and suitable on the Lake of Como, +will preserve the same qualities when erected on the banks of +Windermere; those lovely villas that overlook the _Val d'Arno_, and +where one could be content to spend the rest of one's days, with +Petrarch and Boccacio, and Dante, and Michael Angelo, and Raffaelle, +will not bear transplanting either to Richmond or Malvern. The climate +and the sky and the earth of Tuscany and Piedmont, are not those of +Gloucestershire and Warwickshire; what may be very harmonious in form +and colour when contrasted with the objects of that country which +produced it, may have the most disagreeable effect, and be excessively +inconvenient, in another region with which it has no relation. Not that +the proportions of style and the execution of detail may not be +reproduced in England, if sufficient taste and money be applied,--but +that all surrounding things are out of harmony with the very idea and +existence of the building. The vegetable world is different: the +external and internal qualities of the soil jar with the presence of the +foreign-looking mansion. An English garden is not, nor can be, an +Italian one; an English terrace can never be made to look like an +Italian one; those very effects of light and shade on which the +architect counted when he made his plans and elevations, are not to be +attained under an English sky. The house, however closely it may be +taken from the last Palazzo its noble owner lived in, will only be a +poor-looking copy after all; and he will wonder, as he paces through its +corridors and halls, or views it from every point of the compass on the +outside, what can be the cause of such a failure of his hopes? He hoped +for and expected an impossibility; he thought to raise up a little Italy +in the midst of his Saxon park. Could the experiment end in any thing +else than a failure? + +Every climate and every country has its own peculiarities, which the +inhabitants are found to consult, and which all architects will do well +to observe closely before they lay down their plans. The general +arrangement, the plan of a house, will depend upon this class of +external circumstances more than on any other; while the architectural +effect and design of the elevation will have an intimate relation to the +physical appearance of the region, to the ideas, the pursuits, and the +history of its people. + +Thus it was with the ancient Greeks and Romans, as we find their +domestic life revealed to us at Pompeii. In that delicious climate of +Campania, where the sun shines with a whitening and ever unclouded +splendour, and where winter's frosts may be said to be unknown, the +great thing wanted was shady coolness, privacy, and the absence of all +that might fatigue. Hence, in the arrangement of the Pompeian villas, +windows were comparatively unknown: the rooms were lighted from above; +the aperture for the light was open to the sky; whatever air could be +procured was precious. Colonnades and dark passages were first-rate +appendages of a fashionable man's habitation. His sleeping apartment was +a dark recess impervious to the sun's rays, lighted only by the +artificial glare of lamps, placed on those elegant candelabra, which +must be admired as models of fitness and beauty as long as imitative art +shall exist. He had not a staircase in all his house, or he would not +have if he could help it. The fatigue of lifting the foot in that hot +climate was a point of importance, and he carefully avoided it. The +house was a regular _frigidarium_. It answered the end proposed. It was +commodious, it was elegant--and it was therefore highly suitable to the +people and the place. But it does not therefore follow that it ought to +be imitated in a northern clime, nor indeed in any latitude, we would +rather say in any country, except Italy itself. Few parts of France and +Germany would admit of such erections--some portions of Spain and Greece +might. In Greece, indeed, the houses are much after the same plan, but +in Spain only portions of the south-eastern coast would allow of such a +style of building being considered at all habitable. + +Place, then, a Pompeian villa at Highgate or Hampstead--build up an +Atrium with an Impluvium, add to it a Caldarium if you please, and a +Viridarium, too,--and _omne quod exit in um_: but you will not thereby +produce a good dwelling-house; far from it, you will have a show-box fit +for Cockneys to come and gape at: but nothing else. + +Now, if we would only follow the same rule of common sense that the +Greek or Roman architect did on the shores of the Parthenopoean Gulf, +we should arrive at results, different indeed, but equally congruous to +our wants, equally correct and harmonious in idea. What is it that we +want in this foggy, damp, and cloudy climate of ours, nine days out of +every ten? Do we want to have a spacious colonnade and a portico to keep +off every ray of a sun only too genial, only too scorching? Is the +heavens so bright with his radiance that we should endeavour to escape +from his beams? Are we living in an atmosphere of such high temperature +that if we could now and then take off our own skins for a few minutes, +we should be only too glad to do so? As far as our own individual +sensations are concerned, we would that things were so; but we know from +unpleasant experience that they are far otherwise. + +We believe that every rational householder will agree with us, that the +first thing to be guarded against in this country is cold, next wet, +and thirdly darkness. A man who can really prove that he possesses a +thoroughly warm, dry, and well-lighted house, may write himself down as +a _rerum dominus_ at once: a favoured mortal, one of Jove's right-hand +men, and a pet of all the gods. He is even in imminent danger of some +dreadful calamity falling upon him, inasmuch as no one ever attains to +such unheard-of prosperity without being visited by some reverse of +fortune. He is at the top of the fickle goddess's wheel, and the least +impulse given to one of its many spokes must send him down the slippery +road of trouble. Nevertheless, though difficult to attain, these three +points are the main ones to be aimed at by every English builder and +architect; let him only keep them as the stars by which he steers his +course, and he will come to a result satisfactory in the end. + +One other point is of importance to be attended to as a _fundamental_ +one, and indeed as one of superstruction too. From the peculiarly +changeable nature of our climate, and from the provision that has to be +made for thoroughly warming a house, there is always a danger of the +ventilation and the drainage being neglected. Not one architect in a +hundred ever allows such "insignificant" points as these to disturb his +reveries. All that he is concerned in is his elevation, and his neatly +executed details; but whether the inhabitants are stifled in their beds +with hot foul air, or are stunk out of their rooms by the effluvia of +drains, are to him mere bagatelles. No trifles these, to those who have +to live in the house; no matter of insignificance to those who have an +objection to the too frequent visits of their medical attendant. + +In the first place, then, a gentleman's country house (we are adverting +here to country residences alone--to those in the metropolitan haunts of +men we shall return hereafter) should be thoroughly warm. Now, of course +a man may make a fire-place as big as Soyer's great range at +Crockford's--poor dear Crocky's, before it was reformed--and he may burn +a sack of coals at a time in it; and he may have one of these in each +apartment and lobby of his house--and a pretty warm berth he will then +have of it; but it would be no thanks to his architect that he should +thus be forced to encourage his purveyor of the best Wallsend. No: +either let him see that the walls are of a good substantial +thickness--none of the thin, hollow, badly set, sham walls of the +general run of builders; but made either of solid blocks of good ashlar +stone, with well-rammed rubble between, and this rubble again laid in an +all-penetrating bed of properly sanded mortar with plenty of lime in it, +and laid on hot, piping, steaming hot, if possible--and the joints of +the stones well closed with cement or putty; or else let the walls be +made of the real red brick, the clay two years old or more, well laid in +English bond, and every brick in its own proper and distinct bed of +mortar, as carefully made as before, and the joints cemented into the +bargain. Nor let any stone wall be less than thirty-six, nor any brick +wall than thirty inches thick; whereas, if the house exceeds two stories +in height, some additional inches may yet be added to the thickness of +the lower walls. These walls shall be proof against all cold, and, if +they be not made of limestone, against wet also. + +"But all this is horridly expensive! why, a house built after this +fashion would cost three times the amount of any one now erected upon +the usual specifications!" Of course it would. Materials and labour are +not to be had gratuitously; but then, if the house costs three times as +much, it will be worth three times more than what it would otherwise +fetch, and it will last more than three times as long. "But what is the +use of building for posterity? what does it matter whether the house is +a good one in the time of the next possessor but six? Why not 'run up' a +building that will have a handsome appearance in the present, my own +life-time, and if my descendant wishes for a better one and a warmer +one, why let him build another for himself? Add to which it will grow so +dreadfully old-fashioned in fifty years hence, that it is a hundred to +one if it is not voted a nuisance, and pulled down as an eyesore to the +estate." Such is the reasoning commonly used when any architect more +honest, more scientific, and more truly economical in his regard for his +employer's means, ventures to recommend the building of a mansion upon +principles, and with dimensions, which can alone fully satisfy the +exigencies of his art. We take leave, however, to observe, that such +ought not to be the reasoning of an English nobleman or gentleman. In +the first place, what is really erected in a proper and legitimate style +of architecture, be it classical or mediaeval, can never become +"old-fashioned" or ugly. Is Hampton Court old-fashioned and ugly? is +Audley End so? are Burghleigh and Hatfield so? If they are, go and build +better. Is Windsor Castle so? yes, a large portion of it is, for its +architecture is not very correct; and though it has been erected only so +few years, in another fifty the reigning sovereign--if there be a +sovereign in England in those days--will pull down most of it, and +consider it as sham and as trumpery as the Pavilion has at length been +found out to have been all along. True; if you build houses in a false +and affected and unreal style of architecture, they are ugly from the +very beginning; and they will become as old-fashioned as old Buckingham +House or Strawberry Hill itself, perhaps in the life-time of him who +owns them; or else, like Fonthill, they will crumble about your ears, +and remain as monuments of your folly rather than of your taste. But go +and build as Thorpe, or Inigo Jones, or Wren used to build. Or even, if +you will travel abroad for your models, take Palladio himself for your +guide, or Phillbert Delorme, or Ducerceau, or Mansard; and your +erections shall stand for centuries, and become each year more and more +harmoniously beautiful. + +Next, your house should be dry; do not, then, go and build it with a +slightly-framed low-pitched roof, nor place it in that part of your +grounds which would be very suitable for an artificial lake, but not for +your mansion. Do not be afraid of a high roof; but let it tower up +boldly into the air; let there be, as the French architects of old used +to term it most expressively, a good "forest" of timber in its framing; +cover it with lead, if you can--if not, with flag-stones, or else, if +these be too dear, with extra thick slates in as large slabs as can be +conveniently worked, and as may be suitable to the framing,--least of +all with tiles. + +"But, good Lord! what ideas you have got of expense! Why, sir, do you +know that such a house would cost a great deal of money! and besides +this, I am almost certain that in ancient Rome, the houses had quite +flat roofs, and even in Italy, at the present day, the palaces have +remarkably low-pitched roofs!" Rome and Italy go to the ---- Antipodes! +Did you not stipulate that the house should be dry? do you think that +the old Italians ever saw a good shower of rain in all their lives? did +they? "_Nocte pluit tota_," is all very well in the poet's fugitive +inscription; but did they ever see a six-weeks' rain, such as we have +every autumn and spring, and generally in June and July, to say nothing +of January and February, in Devonshire? My dear sir, if you wish to lie +dry in your bed, and all your family, too, to the seventh generation, +downwards, make your roof suited to the quantity of rain that falls; +pitch up its sides not less steeply than forty-five degrees, and do not +be afraid if it rises to sixty, and so gives you the true mediaeval +proportion of the equilateral triangle. Do you consider it ugly? Then we +will ornament it; and we will make the chimney-stalks rise with some +degree of majesty, into an important feature of the architectural +physiognomy of the building. Are you grumbling at the expense, as you +did just now about that of the walls? What then! are you a Manchester +manufacturer, some dirty cotton-spinner? have you no faith in the +future? have you no regard for the dignity and comfort of your family? +are you, too, bitten with the demoralising commercial spirit of the age? +are you all for self and the present? have you no obligations towards +your ancestors? and are you unwilling to leave a name to be talked of by +your posterity? Why, to be sure it may tighten you up for five or six +years; but then do not stop quite so long in London: make your season +there rather shorter, and do not go so often to Newmarket, and keep away +from White's or Boodle's, and do not be so mad as to throw away any +more of those paltry thousands in contesting the county. Let the +Parliament and the country take care of themselves; they can very well +spare an occasional debater like yourself; the "glorious constitution" +of old England will take no harm even if _you_ do not assist in +concocting the hum-bug that is every year added to its heterogeneous +mixture. Lay out your money at home, drain your land, build a downright +good house for yourself; do not forget your poor tenants, set them a +good example, and let us put a proper roof on Hambledown Hall. + +Providing, however, that the worthy squire actually consents to pull out +a few more hundreds, for the sake of having walls of proper thickness +and roofs of right pitch, it does not quite follow that his ground-floor +rooms will be dry, unless the mansion is well vaulted underneath, and +well drained, to boot. We have known more than one ancient manor-house, +built in a low dead flat, with a river running by, and the joists of the +ground floor resting on the soil, and, yet the whole habitation as dry +as a bone; but still more numerous are the goodly edifices which we have +witnessed, built on slopes, and even hills, where not a spoonful of +water, you would say, could possibly lodge, and yet their walls outside +all green with damp, and within mildew, and discoloured loose-hanging +paper, telling the tale of the demon of damp. When you are seriously +bent on building a good house, put plenty of money under ground; dig +deep for foundations, lay them better and stronger even than your +super-structure; vault every thing under the lower rooms--ay, vault +them, either in solid stone or brick, and drain and counter drain, and +explore every crick and cranny of your sub-soil; and get rid of your +land springs; and do not let the water from any neighbouring hill +percolate through your garden, nor rise into a pleasing _jet-d'eau_ +right under the floor of your principal dining-room. If you can, and if +you do not mind the "old-fashioned" look of the thing, dig a good deep +fosse all round your garden, and line it with masonry; and have a couple +of bridges over it; you may then not only effectually carry off all +intruding visits of the watery sprites, but you may keep off hares from +your flower-beds, two-legged cats from your larder, and sentimental +"cousins" from your maids. You may thus, indeed, make your hall or +mansion into a little fortified place, with fosse and counter-scarp, and +covered way, and glacis; or at any rate, you may put a plain English +haw-haw ditch and fence all round the sacred enclosure; and depend upon +it that you will find the good effects of this extra expense in the +anti-rheumatic tendencies of your habitation. + +And now for the plan of your mansion, for the Ground Plan--the main part +of the business, that, on the proper proportioning and arranging of +which the success of your edificative experiment entirely depends. Here +take the old stale maxim into immediate and constant use, "Cut your coat +according to your cloth;" and, if you are a man of only L2000 a-year, do +not build a house on a plan that will require L10,000 at least of annual +income to keep the window-shutters open. Nor, seeing that you are living +in the country, attempt to cramp yourself for room, and build a great +tall staring house, such as would pass muster in a city, but is +exceedingly out of place in a park. As a matter of domestic aesthetics, +do not think of giving yourself, and still less any of your guests, the +trouble of mounting up more than one set of stairs to go to bed, but +keep your reception and principal rooms on the ground floor, and your +private rooms, with all the bed-chambers, on the floor above. Since, +however, you have determined on going to the expense of a proper roof, +do not suppose that we are such bad architectural advisers as to +recommend that the roof should be useless. No; here let the female +servants and the children of the family, perhaps, too, a stray bachelor +friend or two, find their lodging; and above all, if you are a family +man, if you have any of those tender yearnings after posterity, which we +hope you have, introduce into the roof a feature which we will remind +you of by and by, and for which, if we could only persuade people that +such a very old and useful idea were a new one, and our own, we would +certainly take out a patent. + +There should, then, be only two stories in a gentleman's country +residence, and a dormer or mansard story if we may so term it, in the +roof;--we will not be so vulgar as to call it a garret,--nor yet so +classical as to resort to the appellation of an attic. If, therefore, +you require a large house, take plenty of ground, and lay out all your +rooms _en suite_. Let all the offices, whence any noise or smell can +arise, be perfectly detached from the dwelling part of the +mansion:--such as the kitchens, sculleries, laundries, &c. They should +all be collected into a court with the coach-houses and stables on the +outside, and the whole range of the domestic offices on the other. Never +allow a kitchen to be placed under the same roof as your dining-room or +drawing-room: cut it off completely from the _corps de logis_, and let +it only communicate by a passage;--so shall you avoid all chance of +those anticipatory smells, the odour of which is sufficient to spoil +your appetite for the best dressed dinner in the world. If you would +have any use for the vault under your house, keep all your cellar +stores, and all your "dry goods" there;--it will be a test of your house +being well-built if they do not show any effects of damp after a few +months' stowage below the level of the soil, yet in _aere pleno_. We do +not mean to say that we would put one of our best and newest saddles, +nor our favourite set of harness, in one of the lower vaults, to judge +of the dampness of the house; but depend upon it, a pair or two of old +shoes form excellent hygrometers; and you may detect the "dew-point" +upon them with wonderful accuracy. + +"But only look at how you are increasing the cost of the house by thus +stretching out the house, and really wasting the space and +ground!"--What! still harping on the same string--that eternal +purse-string!--still at the gold and the notes? If you go on at this +rate, my good sir, you will never do any thing notable in the +house-line. Take a lesson from Louis XIV. when he built +Versailles;--that sovereign had at least this one good quality,--he had +a supreme contempt for money;--it cost him a great deal no doubt, but it +is "Versailles," _nec pluribus impar_;--why, it is a quarter of a mile +long, and there is, or rather was, room in it to have lodged all the +crowned heads of Europe, courts, ministers, guards, and all. Never stint +yourself for space; the ground you build on is your own; it is only the +extra brick and mortar;--the number of windows is not increased by +stretching the plan out, the internal fittings are not an atom more +expensive. Be at ease for once in your life, and cast about widely for +room. + +And now, dear sir, if you can but once remove this prejudice of cost +from your mind, you may set at defiance all those twaddling architects +who come to you with their theories of the "smallest spaces of support," +and who would fain persuade you that, because it is scientific to build +many rooms with few materials, _therefore_ you ought to dwell in a house +erected on such principles,--and that they ought to build it for you. +You may send them all to the right-about with their one-sided contracted +notions: is the house to be built for _your_ sake or for _theirs_? who +is going to inherit it--you or they? who is to find out all the comforts +and discomforts of the mansion--the owner or the architect?--If _you_, +then keep to your two stories and to the old English method of building +your house round one or more courts. Go upon the old palatial, baronial, +or collegiate plan; no matter what may be the style of architecture you +adopt, this plan will be found suitable to any. The advantages of it are +as follows: first of all, it gives you the opportunity of having your +rooms all _en suite_, and yet not crowded together; next, it is more +sociable for the inmates of a large country mansion to have the windows +of their apartments looking partly inwards, as it were to the centre of +the house, and partly outwards to the surrounding scenery: and thirdly, +it requires and it gives the opportunity of having that most admirable +and most useful appendage of any large mansion,--a cloister, or covered +gallery, running round the whole interior of the court, either +projecting from the plane of the walls--and, if so, becoming highly +ornamental; or else formed within the walls, and, if so, giving an +unusual degree of warmth and ventilation. In this damp and uncertain +climate of ours, just consider how many days there are in the course of +the year, when the ladies and the children of a family cannot stir out +of doors, not even into the gardens; and then think of what a comfort it +would be to have a dry and airy and elegant promenade and place of +exercise within their own walls. Then the children may scamper about, if +it be, a proper cloister external to the house, and make that joyous +noise which is so essential to their health, without any fear of +annoying even the most nervous of mammas. Within an instant they may all +be under her own personal inspection, and yet they may have their +perfect freedom. Here may the ladies of the family walk for hours on a +wet day, and enjoy themselves without trouble, and with the facility of +being at home again in a minute. If the court is well laid out as a +flowery parterre, and the green-house is made to contribute its proper +supply of plants to the cloister, it becomes converted into a kind of +conservatory, and forms of itself an artificial or winter garden. Both a +cloister, and an internal corridor with windows opening into the former, +may very appropriately be constructed together, and then the +accommodation of this plan is complete. + +Whoever has lived in a cloistered and court-built house will know the +convenient and comfortable feature we would here point out:--it is +especially suited to the climate of England, and to the domestic habits +of English families; it is one of the most ornamental features a house +can possess; it gives great facilities to the waiting of the servants; +it makes the house warm rather than cold; and it adds greatly to the +comfort of the whole. As for the additional cost--let the cost be----! +have we not entered our caveat against all such shabby pleas? Take this +along with you, good sir,--do the thing well, or don't do it at all. + + + + +A TURKISH WATERING-PLACE. + + +Ten days ago, when snowed up by winter, recurrent for the third time +this season, I could not compel myself to the recollection of my Adalian +experiences. Now that I am sitting with window thrown wide open, and +with fire raked out, the spirit of the scene encourages memories of my +visit to that very hot emporium of Caramania. + +We had been kept on the Smyrna station till we pretty well knew it under +every changing phase of season. Through the rigour of winter we had been +brought now to the very flagrance of the dog-star, to the time when +human nature can pretend no opposition to the mood of the lordly sun. +Even late in the autumn, these clear skies afford so little interruption +to the tide of sunbeams, that one is not quite exempt from risk of _coup +de soleil_. Indeed this is perhaps the very time when the untutored +stranger is particularly exposed to this danger. It is the only time of +the year when travelling can be pursued as a serious occupation; or when +one of the pale-faced Occidentals can venture forth _sub dio_ at +mid-day, without positive madness. During the months that, on the +admission of the indigenous, do duty as summer, the state of things is +so evidently beyond a joke, that no idea of trifling therewith enters +into the most unsophisticated mind. Life is reduced to something very +like a resignation of the sturdy substance of the day, and a diligent +employment of the two fag-ends. The intervening hours must be slept +away, or read away, or somehow employed without the requisition of +corporeal activity. And, considering that these are the hours during +which musquitoes vex not, and lesser tormentors of the rampant kind are +inactive, it is no slight boon to have such an interval, during some +part of which you may sleep in peace. As for the night, you may use it +for eating ices, or strolling on the Marina, or pulling out on the +phosphorescent waters of the bay; but unless you be very fresh, you will +hardly think of using that as the time for turning in. And thus are +rendered grateful those slumbers which are induced by the prevailing +spirit of noon. Of course, under such conditions of existence, there is +no great probability that much risk will be encountered by any one +gifted with the ordinary instinct of self-preservation. Should any one +be foolhardy enough to dare for himself the experiment, he would +scarcely find a _surridgi_ to furnish animals, or a guide willing to +pilot him. And should he even make a start of it, am I not the very man +to know what a lesson he would get in the course of the first six hours +of his march; and to predict that he would, should any brains be then +remaining to him, turn back on the strength of that same sample? It is +only a very young, and somewhat foolish person, who would be at all +likely to be found in this predicament. The dissuasion of the indigenous +is so earnest, and so without exception, that, considering their +knowledge of the facts, a prudent stranger must perceive in them the +substance of reason. The Asiatics, perhaps, carry a little too far the +dread of exposure to the atmospheric influences of summer; for they are +careful to shut out even the cool breezes of night, and dread the odour +of freshness that a shower calls forth from the earth. This delightful +exhalation they affirm to be the producer of fever. But indeed we may +concede to them the entertaining of some whimsies on this subject, as +being the necessary contingencies on their fatal experiences of marsh +_malaria_. + +Happy we Englishmen and Scotsmen, who know not what this _malaria_ +means! The worst story on the subject that I remember was a personal +adventure of my friend Beard. The scene of this adventure is a little +out of the way of Adalia, but it may serve to illustrate the style of +thing prevailing generally in this direction any where within hail of a +marsh. Beard was engaged in that (to those who like it) delightful, but +occasionally perilous duty of surveying. This involves the being sent +away in the boats for weeks at a stretch, during which time you go +groping along the coast, or threading out-of-the-way channels between +islands. It is easy to conceive that with fine weather, and healthy +shores, this must be a welcome duty to a young officer, full of zeal, +and unaccustomed to command. But sometimes the course will lie along +deadly shores, past which you must creep, and snatch hydrographical +facts from the teeth of death. Beard, poor fellow--and yet, considering +that he lives to tell the tale, we should rather congratulate than +pity--Beard was in command of a party of seven. Any one who knows the +service, knows that an officer accustomed to command a particular boat, +if he be a good fellow, acquires a strong fellow-feeling for and with +his men. This is but human nature, seeing that they are subject to +frequent and long isolations from the rest of the ship's company. I have +felt this influence strongly myself, and am persuaded that a sailor is +never so amiable a being as when away from his ship and from +civilisation, on some scrambling boat-expedition. He then puts off +altogether that selfishness of bearing which it often suits his humour +while on board to affect. Beard was one who entered fully into the +spirit of these expeditions; indeed he might have led one to suppose +that he would willingly have agreed to pass his life in a boat. On this +particular occasion they were coasting along Thessaly--those shores so +beautiful to look at, but of which the beauty, when the mists of night +descend upon them, reek with the breath of death. They proceeded +cautiously; and as their labours were protracted into new days and +weeks, and none of their little band had been stricken, they began to +hope, and perhaps to believe themselves seasoned and safe. The time for +them to rejoin the ship at last arrived, and not a man had been ill. One +man did indeed complain in the morning, but he laid in his oar, and they +hoped would soon be better. Presently another was forced to claim the +same exemption, and another. In short, they reached the ship with great +difficulty, and as by miracle, and not one of the party could mount the +side. They were all hoisted in, and in a few hours the only man of the +party who lived was my friend. In the pretty island of Sciathos is a +tomb, wherein sleep the whole party save that one. I have stood by this, +and read in the sad story of its inscription a sufficient warning on the +subject of marsh _malaria_. Once or twice I have come in its way, but +never willingly, and happily always without calamitous result. Once only +I have slept within its problematical range, and that was off that +pestiferous bit of coast near Epidaurus, and I fancy at a season when +the marshes had not their steam up. + +We had among us a lesson, but not of this melancholy character, on the +absurdity of attempting to brave the daylight heat of summer. It is so +natural for an Englishman to look upon the mere natives of any place to +which he may come in his travels, as cheats and ignoramuses, that we, as +a matter of course, and most complacently, admitted the natives _en +masse_ and every where to that rating. In the course of our vagaries we +stumbled on the pretty island of Mytilene, in the very piping hours of +summer. Very cool and pleasant did it look to us shipmen, hanging down +its umbrageous olive groves nearly to the water's edge--and very +pleasant should we have found it to be, had we been content to defer our +landing till the authorised hour of eventide. But besides that the place +looked so inviting, we felt bound to give way to a little enthusiasm at +this approach to the birthplace of the lady who gave Horace the model of + + "Jam satis terris nivis atque dirae" &c. + +so nothing could hold us in from immediate disembarkation, and a cross +country ride. We went right across from one harbour to another--for it +has two, which between them nearly bisect the island. But so frightful +was the heat, that nothing but youth and English blood exempted us from +the penalty of fever. Some of the party were very nearly knocked up +mid-way; and we should scarcely any of us have managed to get back to +the ship as we did, had it not been our fortune to meet a resting-place +in the village of Loutri. Such attempts as this are the causes of the +sad casualties that we occasionally find happening to Eastern +travellers. How many have paid with their lives the penalty of an +unseasonable journey in Syria, especially on the coast between Beyrout +and Jerusalem. Only choose well your time, and you may proceed in +perfect security, so far as the dangers of nature are concerned. Any +attempt at forcing a journey is a folly; and a folly of which the +correction will come with the first experiment, if it leave to the +person any future opportunity of sublunary conduct. + +But no one should mention Mytilene without saving a word or two in +praise of its beauty. All shrivelled up as we were by the heat--for we +were almost past the sudatory stage--we drank in some refreshment from +the scenery. Port Olivet has quite the appearance of a lake, and it is +only when quite at the spot that you perceive the real nature of the +locality. The hills around are finely shaded; and the masses of +olive-trees assumed, in the then lurid glare of sky and water, that +shadowy appearance that we used to see in Turner's pictures. They are +very famous for the production of a fine oil from their olives, which is +the staple commodity of the island, and of which they export +considerable quantities. By all accounts, nature, unassisted, may claim +the praise of this produce, for they are said to be careless +manufacturers. We went into one or two of the [Greek: ergasteria] to +witness the process of compression, but could not take it upon our +veracity to utter an opinion anent them. At least they seem in a fair +way to improve their wares; for the new consular agent of France (whom, +by the way, we took to his Barataria) is especially knowing in this +line, and hopes to produce, in a short time, oil that shall be equal to +that of France or Lucca. + +After all this talk about the impossibility of travelling in the summer, +it augurs ill for our account of Adalia, to say that it was the very +heat and rage of summer when we landed there. But as we were not +volunteers on the occasion, we did not choose our own season. Like the +fifty thousand Cossacks who marched off to the East Indies, not because +they liked it, but because they were sent, we were saved all the trouble +of deliberation; and once arrived at the spot, we were sufficiently old +stagers to adapt ourselves to the ways and means of the place. I +remember that we were delighted at the start: catching at the prospect +of change, as at the hope of improvement. Certainly things were bad +enough with us in Smyrna bay at that time. The pitch was boiling in the +seams, the water was hissing along-side; the sky seemed an entire sun, +so truly were the fiery rays rendered back from every part of the +glowing concave. The sea-breeze, one's only solace under such +circumstances, was continually forgetting to come. In spite of the +common profession, that without the sea-breeze it would be impossible to +live hereaway, we continued to pant through days of breezeless +existence. At this time it was that I arrived at the conclusion which is +now established in the code of my economics, that the endurance at +Calcutta or Port Royal is a joke compared with what one has to undergo +in these milder latitudes. The dweller in Anatolia has no such range of +Fahrenheit to alarm him into defensive measures, and thus he falls +comparatively unprepared into the conflict with the dog-days. Your +Bengalee mounts defences of _tattees_ and punkahs that cool down a hot +wind, or whistle air into presence in a trice. Whereas in this part of +the world, as the Sirocco blows, so it must steal into your room, +parching your face, and covering you all over with a clammy stickiness, +through which you may distinctly feel the subdolent shudder of incipient +ague. When he has darkened his room, and spread cool mats on the floor, +the poor Smyrniot has nothing farther that he can do. And if such be the +case of those who dwell within the mansions of Ismir, who have at least +thick walls between them and the sun, what is likely to be the state of +those _disgraziatos_, who people the busy town of ships in the bay?--the +rash men + + "--digitos a morte remotos + Quatuor aut septem." + +Custom, they say, may bring a man to any thing, as it did M. Chabert to +the power of living in an oven; to which achievement, by the way, I +should not wonder if the first step had been the passing of a hot summer +on board ship in harbour. You may any day see, at some of our gigantic +iron-works, custom bringing men to such a pass, that they can endure to +stand before a fire that would be the death and cooking of an ox. And so +I suppose it was by force of custom that we were able to undergo a style +of thing that ought to have been the stewing of any ordinary flesh and +blood. But it was a stupid and languid life that we were leading, +scarcely venturing on deck even beneath the awning, and not dreaming of +shore except quite in the evening. Sometimes a morning's interest would +be excited by some story of plague in the Lazaretto, and a proposed +adjournment of the ship to Vourlah, to be out of harm's way; and such +speculations, though not exactly pleasurable, were at least +anti-stagnative in character. In any thing like decent weather it is not +bad fun to get down to Vourlah for a time, and to fly from the gaieties +of the metropolis to the pleasures of the _chasse_ at Rabbit Island. It +must ever be soothing to a spirit that has not quite forgotten "the +humanities," to walk upon the turf which witnessed the infant gambols of +Anaxagoras; and besides that, the locality is pretty, and worthy of +being visited on its own account. The town is at the distance of some +miles from the Scala, which last is the grand watering-place for the +ships on this station. Some few years ago, when the two fleets, French +and English, were here, an extempore town was devised on the beach, for +the benefit of the thousand and one hangers-on who are always found in +such neighbourhoods. This was a stretch of luxury on their part; for +generally these nautical suttlers need no other shelter than that of the +boat which contains their wares. They are always ready for a start, and +glad to be allowed to follow almost any whither in the wake of a ship. I +should think they might be rated amongst the most honest of their +compatriots, as they certainly may amongst the most hard-working and +courageous. + +But no such luck had been ours, as to be assigned so pleasant an +adjournment. The longest cruise we had any of us managed to steal, was +perhaps in one of the cutters, as far as what we Englishmen persist in +calling St James's castle--a strange name for Turks to give a place, and +which, in fact, we have devisedly corrupted from their word _sandjeak_. + +At last, one happy day--happy in its result, not in the complexion it +bore at its opening--we positively did receive orders for a start, and +this is the way it came about: The representative of sultanic dignity at +the somewhat retired watering-place of Adalia, was a man prone, like the +greater number of his countrymen, to judge of things altogether in the +concrete. The idea of power could by him be deduced only from present +violence; and without some such sensible manifestations, it became to +him like one of Fichte's "objects," i.e. all moonshine. With regard to +foreign powers, they existed for him, and influenced his government, +only so far as they sent occasionally a ship of war with its suggestive +influence of a frowning broadside to look in his way. They have no very +distinct idea, these gentlemen, of geography, nor of political science; +all thus are sadly out in their estimation of the relative importance of +places. To them the seat of their government is the world; or at least +the place in it of importance second to Constantinople. If they be +passed over in the distribution of our _corps de demonstration_, they +are apt to ascribe the omission to a want of power on our part. Now, +with all their excellencies, it call hardly be denied that they are +sadly apt to presume on any want of power in a neighbour. So it happens +that the unfortunate consuls who are stowed away in the obscurer +establishments, are apt to suffer from their caprice. Should it so +happen that the particular flag over whose interests the consul is +appointed inspector, should not have been displayed in the neighbourhood +lately by any ship of war, the short memory of a pasha is in danger of +forgetting that nation's claim to respect; for any thing that he knows, +it may have been revolutionised or sunk by an earthquake,--at least he +cannot bear the trouble of imagining any other reason for the +non-appearance of its executive ministers, than the obvious one of its +having no ships to send. Thus, in matters of precedence, consuls are apt +sometimes to get snubbed--a point on which, of all others, they are +tender: or in matters of justice, their clients will find themselves +ousted, in spite of the proverbial integrity of the Turkish judges. +Perhaps the readiest way of stumbling on a grievance, is the kind of +thing that gave rise to our visit, where some of the populace presume on +your want of protection, and commit some aggression on your rights as a +man and a brother. This being referred to the authorities, will be apt +to be viewed by them in the light of that consideration which they +happen to be lending at that moment to your nation. Poor fellows! we +must not be hard upon them; nor will we doubt the sound foundation of +the panegyrics which many travellers have pronounced on their honesty. +They are honest, no doubt, so far as they understand the doctrine of the +thing; but the fact is, they do not seem to understand the subject in +the abstract. They have no idea of judging a foreigner's cause, without +reference to considerations of his nationality and personal importance; +and to pronounce readily a decision in favour of one against whom should +lie the preponderance in these particulars, would be to them an +absurdity. We have had occasion lately to be struck with the tone in +which certain writers have spoken on the subject of Mussulman morals. +The first notability about such accounts is, that they are very +different from the reports of their predecessors--of such an accurate +man as Burkhardt for instance; and the second notability, so far as most +of us are concerned, is, that they are contrary to the general consent +of travellers. That there are excellent men, and honest among them, is a +fact; and it is a fact, that in general matters of bargaining, you may +trust to them. But when the idea of probity is carried out, so far as to +imply a view of things comparatively disparaging to Christian morals, it +mounts to an anti-climax, and falls over into the province of nonsense. +The Koran has provided them with much ethical guidance, of which +individual Turks, of any pretence to religion, must be in some degree +observant. But it is not true that the history of such cases, in their +administration of justice, as might have occurred in the court of the +old [Greek: polemarchos], will allow us to conclude that they are in +possession of a rule coercing them to be just and brotherlike towards +the unprotected stranger, abstractly and for justice's sake. Now, with +us you may find many individual rogues, but never a roguish court, nor +tolerated roguish public body. And of this difference between us +Christians and them Turks, it will not be difficult for any one to +supply the reason, who will give himself the trouble to think about it. + +But as I was saying, at Adalia,--the town I mean, not the +province,--lived, with the authority of local governor, a personage +styled a _Caimacan_. This is a person inferior to a regular pasha, +having in fact a sort of acting rank. One remembers this style and title +well, because it puts us in mind of the nicest thing eatable that the +Levant affords--_Caimac_, which is something very like Devonshire cream, +only better. This Caimacan, being a sort of great man's great man, is +apt not to bear his honours meekly. At the precise time of which I +speak, the Sultan was raising considerable levies in different parts of +his dominions, for the benefit of good order among the Albanians. Near +Adalia was a military rendezvous for the forces raised in that +neighbourhood, and the command _pro tempore_ of the new levies was +assigned to the Caimacan. So that the poor man was labouring under an +accession of dignity. + +At Adalia also lived a certain Ionian--from the Seven Islands, friend, +not from Asia--who had been led thither by a speculation in the soap +trade. To judge by the evident want of the article, would have been to +pronounce a most favourable opinion as to the probable result of such +speculation. In fact the man succeeded only too well; he boiled so +successfully, and sold so cheaply, that all the native competitors were +beaten out of the field. The true believers were, of course, indignant +at this conduct of an infidel and a stranger; and as they could not +weather on him in the fair way of trade, they determined to try if they +could not "choke his luff" by a practical expedient. Paying him a visit +one day, they spoiled his stock in trade, broke his gear, gave him a +good thrashing, and told him to take that as a gentle hint of what they +would do if he did not behave himself for the future. The poor fellow +appealed to the Caimacan for satisfaction for the injury done, and for +security against future violence. From this person he received no +assistance, and was left to fight it out as he best could against his +opponents. + +Those dear Ionians! creditable fellow-countrymen are they for us, and +profitable. No people assert more unflinchingly their privilege of +national relationship with ourselves, and thus do we get the credit of +all the rows which they may kick up throughout the Mediterranean. It is +highly amusing to see the style in which they will declare themselves to +be Englishmen, not merely as allies and protected for the time being, +but with the implication of a claim to identity of race. A son of Ithaca +or Zante will talk as if he were a true Saxon. Certainly, the Turks seem +to make little distinction between the races. That the men are under +British protection, is for them sufficient reason for esteeming them to +be Englishmen. Sometimes their classification of races shows an amusing +ignorance of, and indifference to the whole set of national distinctions +among Franks. I remember that all who attended the services of the +British chaplaincy at Smyrna, were called English, though among them +were many who could speak scarcely a word of the language; and so all +who went to the dissenting meeting-house (for they have one there) were +called Americans. + +Our poor soap-boiler being reduced to extremity, having lost his goods, +and being afraid to make a fresh start of it, betook himself for +assistance to the English vice-consul. The office was at that time +filled by a very efficient person--one, moreover, who had for many years +resided in the country, and understood well the language and national +genius. But it so happened that just then a long time had elapsed since +any of our men-of-war had paid a visit to the road-stead and consular +dignity was in a condition of proportional depreciation. The consul, +however, as in duty bound, paid his visit of remonstrance, and laid +before the great man the wrong done within his jurisdiction; whereupon +the Caimacan behaved like any thing but a gentleman, and, far from +promising to remedy the ill done, gave him to understand that he did not +care sixpence for soap-boiler or consul either. Mr ---- had sufficient +knowledge of the people to know that this declaration of opinion was +strictly true, and that the only plan to correct it, would be to prove +himself able to summon an armed force to his assistance. Till they saw +this, nothing would be able to persuade the Adalians that he was not +either deserted by his country, or that his country had not lost the +power to assist him. + +And thus it was that Mr ---- wrote to his chief at Smyrna a description +of the ticklish state of circumstances, and explained that unless +English commercial interests at Adalia were to be suffered to go +altogether to the wall, some strong preservative must be sent thither in +the shape of a stout ship, with a goodly array of long thirty-twos. And +so was it that word came to the good ship Falcon, which thereupon spread +forth her wings, or, in plain language, hoisted her topsails, and set +forth on her conciliatory expedition. Besides that we were delighted to +get away in any direction from the stagnation of Smyrna--a stagnation +affecting air, sea, and society,--it was a recommendation of the cruise +in this particular direction that none of us had ever been there before. +There is little reason why in a general way it should be visited from +one year's end to another,--I mean in the way of business, at least the +business of those who have to distribute their attention throughout +these seas for the interests of general pacification. The place, as we +afterwards found, is not without commerce; but there are no merchants of +our nation except the vice-consul. The advantages of this place as a +trading station, more especially as being a station where he would find +no competitors, had induced him to settle here. And the _prestige_ lent +by the consular name, afforded sufficient inducement for the undertaking +of an office, which, if it be not very lucrative, at any rate involves +the responsibility of no very serious duties. Though now and then a man +in office may forget himself, yet in the long run a consul is sure to be +treated with deference, and to reap considerable commercial advantages +from his position. Be it understood, that here there are other +merchants,--but the indigenous, chiefly Turco-Greek. Besides a single +gentleman who acted as assistant to the vice-consul in his various +duties, we did not find a Frank resident. We heard, indeed, that there +was also an Austrian, but we did not see him, so I suppose that he could +hardly have been of much consequence. + +The weather at first beguiled us with symptoms of a change for the +cooler, and lent to our sails some pleasant breezes as we passed out of +the Gulf of Smyrna. As we sped onward, things became even better, and +especially delighted us with their aspect off Rhodes. It is a singular +fact, well known to those who know the locality, that the day scarcely +occurs in the year when this island is afflicted with a calm. For some +reason it so happens that, pass when you will, you are pretty sure to +find a stiff breeze blowing. One of the points of the island, which +thrusts out into the sea a long and low promontory, shows that the +natives here know how to turn this physical provision to good effect. +This point is in the most curious way studded with windmills, and from +this its garniture has received its name in our geography. These poor +machines rarely know an hour's quiet, but continually throw about their +long arms in what, from a little distance, seems to be a mere confusion +of material. Past this exquisitely beautiful island, of whose strand the +recollection is fraught with associations of unfeverish existence, we +sped rapidly before the breeze, which almost made us regret the land we +were leaving. Truly should we have regretted it, had we but known the +breezeless condition on which we were about to enter! For some +four-and-twenty hours before we arrived at our port, the weather changed +eminently for the worse. The feathery vanes stirred not, and the canvass +flapped against the mast, as the old girl rolled lumpingly in the swell. +She was a dear old ship as ever floated, but like all other things +sublunary, animate, or inanimate, was not without her faults. Of these +the worst, nay, the only one to speak of, was the habit of rolling about +most viciously whenever she had a chance. The sun poured upon us such a +flood of heat, that awnings became a joke. Things were so thoroughly +heated during the day, that the night scarcely afforded sufficient hours +to cool them down, for a fresh start next morning. We began almost to +question whether we had not changed bad for worse; and very soon made up +our minds that without any mistake we had. We arrived at this +conclusion, as the port of our destination hove in sight. It was towards +evening that we crept in to our anchorage, through an atmosphere +scarcely sufficiently alive to give us motion, and so almost glowing +that it seemed to burn us as we passed. The place was wrapped in +breathless stillness: no boats came forth to try a market with us, or to +gratify their curiosity; and no sounds issued from the shore, which +might have been deemed almost unhaunted of men. + +When daylight revealed the features of the place, we perceived the +pretensions of Adalia in the way of the picturesque to be of a high +order. Neither was there wanting matter of admiration even in the night, +though we were suffering too much discomfort to be easily pleased by +mere pictures. The shore, in its way, afforded an unusual spectacle. The +town stands on high ground, and on both sides the line of coast is +formed by lofty cliffs, stretching far away into the distance. What of +the beauties of these depended on the light of day for development, were +reserved for our edification on the morrow. But the good people had +ornamented their country just then in a fashion more appropriate to +embellish the night than the day. Enormous fires were blazing on the +cliffs, which skirted the bay up which we were advancing,--if we may +apply so familiar a word to the conflagrations that met our sight. The +most active spirit of incendiarism had been afloat, for entire woods +were seen in a state of burning. We never discovered whether this +destruction was by accident, or of set purpose: if it were done by way +of obtaining charcoal, the price of that article one would think must +have fallen in the market. But as these fires blazed away in the clear +dry air of the night, they lit up the bay, and almost threw upon the +waters the dark shadow of our masts and yards. At first, when at some +distance, we had been disposed to account for the lurid appearance of +the heavens, by supposing that distance and refraction had effected a +cheat upon our senses. When we came nearer, the only thing we could +suppose was, that the whole country, was in the course of destruction. +It is hard to say whether the distance at which we anchored from the +shore was not too great to allow of the production on us of any sensible +effect from these fires: that we had any misgiving on the subject may +serve to show that they were enormous. I know that at the time we made +up our minds, that to their agency was to be attributed some portion at +least of the heat that oppressed us. The wind came off in gusts of +overpowering heat; not with that tepid influence that grumblers +sometimes denounce as a hot wind, but with the full sense of having come +from a baker's oven. At least we had a grand sight for our pains, and +therefrom reaped some consolation as we clustered panting on the deck. + +I remember to have seen something in this way before, though on a +smaller scale, and that was in the island of Euboea. Once in my life, +I had a very near view of the recent scene of such a conflagration in +one of the smaller Greek islands. It was in taking, according to our +custom, a ramble right across the land, that we came on no less a +collection of embers than the _debris_ of an entire forest, which lay +smouldering at our feet. I know that, having commenced from curiosity +the work of picking our way through the ashes, we found the undertaking +more arduous than we quite fancied, and that our trowsers and shoes +would afterwards have fetched but little in Monmouth-street. The Greeks, +it is understood, light up their bonfires, partly by way of amusing +themselves, and partly by way of hinting displeasure at things in +general. Of course, it is quite obvious, that any party who wish to +prove a minister's rule to be calamitous, assists their argument by +increasing the sum of calamity. + +But night with its miseries at length was passed. During its course, the +thermometer did not get below 90 deg. What it reached in the daytime it +boots not to record--and signifies less, because when the sun is above +us, we bargain for a hot day in summer. But oh! those nights, when by +every precedent we should have had cooling dews, and refreshing air! + +However, the sun rose, and the people on shore rose too. There was no +tumultuous rushing forth in boats to have a look at the new comers, as +there is so apt to be on the arrival of a man-of-war. A quiet little +dingy would steal out, manned by three or four mongrel-looking Greeks, +and row round us at a respectful distance. The fact is, that the people +had got scent of the reason of our coming: and as a reclamation of right +is by them supposed to be incompatible with any thing but an angry mood, +they were afraid to approach us. The town itself we perceived to be a +most ill-conditioned looking place. Harbour there is none--at least none +available in a breeze from seaward. A heavy sea sets right in, and must +strand any thing found anchored here. We were afterwards told, that in +the bad weather of the winter before our coming, the sea had washed some +vessels right up into the town. This want of a harbour is the most +serious drawback to the commerce of Adalia. It is, in every respect +except this, adapted to serve as the general emporium of the interior. +Even at present, notwithstanding its disadvantages, a good deal of +business is done here: but ships can never lie before the town in peace, +nor commence loading and unloading, with the confidence that they shall +be able to get through their work without having first to slip cable and +be off. But the town must be in other hands before so arduous a work is +likely to be undertaken. + +A most unserviceable rumble of a fort mounted guard over the town, in a +position little likely to be of use in repelling an attack by sea. +Perhaps it might have been available as a maintainer of good order in +the town, should the spirit of insubordination haply spring up therein: +but we could hardly have credited the walls as possessed of sufficient +stability to stand the shock of a report. We saw the artillery-men, busy +as bees, at their guns--evidently standing by to return the salute which +we were expected to give. But this would have been far too civil +treatment for them, while matter of dispute between us remained. We +maintained a dignified silence. + +It was not long before Mr ---- found his way off to us, and put us up to +the actual state of affairs. It seemed that little Pedlington was in an +uproar. The whole of the Adalian public were in a state of lively +commotion. Of course, as they had bullied loudly, they were abject in +concession. Those more immediately concerned in the outrage on the +soap-boiler, would have infallibly absconded, had not the strong arm of +the law laid an embargo upon them, and laid them by as scapegoats in the +first instance. The prevailing opinion about us was, that we should +certainly blow the town about their ears, but that still all must be +essayed to conciliate us. The Caimacan himself, the great man who had +given rise to the remonstrance on our part, had taken himself off, and +left his deputy in command. This was professedly to look after some +troops that he was recruiting in the neighbourhood, but we gave him the +credit of practising a dodge to get out of the way of an awkward +business. A striking peculiarity of the business was, that no doubt +seemed any longer to be maintained as to the issue of the negotiation. +The question of right and wrong was no longer considered as being open; +but the verdict was already presumed to be given against those whom we +challenged as offenders. + +It was thought advisable to pay some attention to appearances on the +occasion of our interview with the governor. No suit prospers with them, +in a general way, unless backed by good personal appearance. For this +reason we mustered a strong party of officers, in imposing costume; and +by way of evincing our determination, proceeded with as little delay as +possible to the divan. The usual motley group of starers gathered round +us at the landing, and escorted us up the rugged street to the _palais +de justice_. They all seemed to be affected with the spirit of fear, +except our partisans, who were in a state of exultation from the like +cause. Two individuals in particular were amusingly and palpably +possessed with the spirit of triumph, and they were the two attendants +of the vice-consul. These men were worthy of notice on other accounts, +but singularly remarkable in respect of the effectual manner in which +they seemed to have divested themselves of national prejudices. They +were enthusiastic fellows, who had not merely let out their services to +the representative of England, but seemed fairly to have made over to +him the allegiance of heart and head; retaining no sympathy with their +own countrymen. Thus did they seem to rejoice eminently in our coming, +and the consequent humbling of the local authorities. They were two +strapping fellows--as janissaries, to be any thing worth, should always +be--and marshalled us the way in grand style. + +The unhappy rabble seemed to be suffering the pangs of most cruel +privation when the cortege arrived at the residence of justice, and they +found themselves left in the lurch at the threshold. In such mood you +see a London mob flattening their noses against the panes of a chemist's +window, or hanging outside of a replete magistrate's office. One comfort +is, that the economy of a Turkish _menage_ perfectly admits of the +establishment of a line of scouts, even from the very presence-chamber: +so that earliest intelligence may be conveyed to the gentlemen without. +Mr ---- gave us by the way a few hints as to etiquette, and engaged to +prompt us as occasion might demand. I have said already that he was +perfectly up to conversation in the native language and might have well +played the part of interpreter. One might might have supposed that this +would have been taken by the people rather as a compliment; and that it +would have been considered creditable to a foreign agent to have +acquired a knowledge of the vernacular of the people with whom he had +constantly to treat. But the contrary is the fact. To speak for one's +self is far too simple a mode of conducting business: and he who would +preserve his dignity in any consideration, must retain the services of a +dragoman. To conduct an important interview without the intervention of +this functionary would convey to the Turks an idea of slovenly +negligence. A good thing is it when the agent, commercial or diplomatic, +possesses sufficient knowledge of the language to enable him to check +the version of the interpreter, who otherwise is apt to take liberties +with his text. However, we were in this case quite safe: first, in the +assurance of Mr ---- that he would risk his life on his dragoman's +veracity; and next, because it was clear that no word could pass which +was not likely to be reinterpreted to us. + +We marched into the room, and made our salaams-some of us inconsiderable +ones very truculently, for we were very irate; and on all such occasions +a man's indignation rises in exact proportion to the degree in which he +has nothing to say to the matter. The deputy Caimacan was sitting on a +divan at the top of the room, and rose politely as we entered. There +were too many of us to find room in the divan, so we were scattered +about as best we could light on places. The main difficulty was to get a +place that looked clean enough to sit upon; for a dirtier palace I never +saw, nor a more, beggarly. One cannot say whether the head governor had +taken all his traps with him when he went a-soldiering; but if what we +saw really was his establishment, it is likely enough that he had gone +away to avoid exposing his poverty. + +"_Hosh Gueldin_," said the Turk; "you are welcome." + +And now was to be seen a fine contrast between Oriental apathy and +British energy. The Turk sank back on his seat, as if disengaged from +all care, and not quite up to the trouble of entertaining his morning +visitors. The English Captain sat bolt upright, "at attention," and +opened the business of the _seance_ at once. + +"Tell the Governor--" + +"Stop a moment," said Mr ----, "that's not the way to begin." + +"What is the way then?" + +"First, you must smoke a pipe--there's one coming this way. You would +shock all their notions of propriety by entering abruptly on business. +We must have first a little talk about things in general." + +Just then the Governor roused up, and addressed to the Captain, through +the dragoman, some observation on the weather or the crops. Then came a +servant with a chibouque and coffee: and the head negotiators were soon +co-operatively engaged. + +And no bad way of beginning business either; especially in cases where +there may be a little awkward rust to rub off. The only objection to the +amusement in this case was, that it was not general--pipes being +afforded only to the heads of departments. This was a style of treatment +so different from all our experience, that it left me more fully +persuaded than ever that the Caimacan had walked off with his goods and +chattels, not forgetting his pipes. + +This fumatory process proceeded for some time, almost in silence. It +afforded the several parties opportunity to settle the speeches they +intended to make, and certainly must have been useful in the way of +allaying the angry passions of their several minds. We, who had none of +the business on our consciences, and had come merely to make up the +show, employed this interval in taking cognizance of the localities. The +household appointments were sadly inferior to those we had been +accustomed to see; and especially must this condemnation fall on the +servants, who were a most dirty, ill-conditioned set. They stood +clustered about the doorway in groups, looking furtively at us, and +whispering counsel. + +"Halloo!" said Mr ----, "they have determined to be prepared for +contingencies. There are the culprits, I see, in waiting for the +bastinado, if such should be your demand." + +And there, sure enough, they had the poor fellows just outside, waiting +to be scourged for the propitiating of our wrath. Evidently they were +little aware that the affair had changed altogether its complexion; and +that the culpability had in our eyes been transferred from the original +rioters to the protectors of the riot. + +When, eventually, the signal was given for commencing business, it was a +fine thing to see how beautifully submissive the deputy had become. He +began by declaring that he could not arrange the matter, but must refer +it to his chief, and wanted much to put off the discussion till that +functionary should arrive. On this it was hinted to him, that it would +have been polite and proper had that gentleman remained in the way to +settle the row, which had occurred by his own fault, but that we could +not await his return. Either must they undertake at once to make full +reparation for the wounded dignity of the Consul, and for the injurious +treatment of the Ionian, or they would see what they should see. It +needed little pressing on our part to break down the feint which had +been set up by way of opposition. The deputy soon declared that all +should be as we wished. He still stuck to his declaration, that the +actual settlement of the business was beyond his province, and that he +must wait for the sanction of his commanding officer. But meanwhile he +took upon himself to declare the terms on which things might be +considered virtually settled; and they were, that we were to have +everything our own way. This result was obtained by us without recourse +had to any thing like bullying; and we were able, in this instance, to +behave in a more civilised manner, because we were backed by so much +real authority, and show of present power. But little doubt is there, +that, however unfavourable the inference with respect to Turkish sense +and honesty, the mode most commonly to be recommended in dealings with +them, is by _in terrorem_ proceeding. They cannot understand the +co-ordinate existence, of power and moderation. Very good fun will +sometimes be enacted by the knowing for the cowing of a pasha; and in +almost any case the only fear of _echouance_ is where there may exist +too much modesty. But only bully hard, and you are tolerably sure to +gain your point. It is by no means necessary that your arguments should +carry the cogent force of soundness. Appearances are what weigh chiefly +with those whose habits of thinking do not dispose them to discuss +argument. One sharp-witted fellow that I knew brought to successful +issue a decisive experiment on the readiness of pashas to be taken in by +mere sound. He went into the vice-regal presence, attended by a dragoman +whom he had previously instructed in the subject-matter to be +propounded--some question of redress for grievance. It was necessary +that he should say something on the occasion, and afford the appearance +of telling the dragoman what to say: but as this person already knew his +lesson, it was not necessary that what he said should be to him +intelligible. Nothing occurred to him as likely to be more effective in +delivery than the celebrated speech of Norval about the Grampian hills; +which accordingly he recited with due emphasis, standing up to give the +better effect to the scene. The end desired was fully attained. The +pasha opened wide eyes, as the actor grew excited, and was visibly +affected by the assumption of towering passion. He soon began to try to +pacify him, and beg him to be easy. "Inshalla! all should be as he +wished." The upshot of our argument with the deputy Caimacan was, that +he would send immediately to his chief, for a confirmation of the +pacification between us, and that meanwhile we were to amuse ourselves +as well as we could. But for all we saw, amusement was one of the good +things not easily to be had at Adalia. It is so deeply retired in +uncivilisation, and so wanting withal in the excitements of energetic +barbarism, that human life is there tamed down to the most passionless +condition. It was, too, notwithstanding the season, a time of unusual +commercial enterprise just then. It was the year of the murrain in +Egypt, which destroyed so enormous a proportion of their cattle; and +Mehemet Ali was sending in all directions to purchase horses, asses, and +kine. A large corvette of his came in while we were there, on this +service. She had landed her guns, and was filling her deck with +livestock. There was also a deal of business going on just then in the +timber line. But little evidence of this brisk state of the markets was +given by the people. A good many visitors certainly came off to see us; +but that was rather a reason why we should have accused the populace of +idleness. We were struck with the appearance of many of the old fellows +who honoured us with visits. They retained, without exception, the +orthodox dress and beard of the old school. Among them were a great +number of the green turbans, which mark the sacred person of the +"Hadji." Such a clustering of these distinguished characters made us +fancy at first that Adalia itself must be invested with the idea of some +peculiar sanctity. But we found that these gentlemen were merely _en +route_, tarrying at Adalia, a great point of embarkation, for +opportunity to pursue their journey. The place is in one of the great +high roads to the Hedjaz: and of the swarms who pass through it every +year, many pilgrims have not sufficient funds to defray the expense of +travelling either way. It then becomes a work of charity for the more +opulent of the faithful to speed them on the journey. But that they +depend on such means of travelling is reason sufficient to account for +long in their line of locomotion, and for their congregating here in +considerable numbers. Of all places likely to maintain the constant +infection of plague, this must be one of the first: for notoriously +among no people is the disease so rife as among the pilgrims. + +The worthy consul did his best to embellish the days of our sojourn with +pleasurable episodes. Society there was not likely to be any; but yet +such as, for want of better, they had, he undertook to show us. He +really seemed very much obliged to us for our opportune visit, and said +that it would be the making of him. It certainly did seem to be quite +necessary to the maintaining of the dignity of his office. One +invitation we had from a merchant of the place, a man whom they +described as being very rich and of great influence; and a plan was laid +for our having a picnic in the country. There is a place in the +neighbourhood of the town which has been prepared expressly for the use +of those who make rural excursions. A thick grove of trees keeps off the +sun, and soft turf lends a seat to the revellers. We could make out the +top of the trees from the anchorage, for the country is of an elevated +character, hanging out on lofty cliffs the different features of its +panorama. The effect produced by this arrangement of the scenery is +highly beautiful. It has in profusion one element of the beautiful, and +that is the feature of cascade. There is in one point a congress of +waterfalls, whereat may be counted no less than nine separate streams, +which pour down their abundance from the cliffs into the sea. The good +consul and his satellites bore us pretty constant company; and of great +service they were in preserving order among the motley crew that +constantly thronged our decks. We did not like to qualify the good +report we had so far gained and maintained, by any exhibition of +harshness towards the mob. But the sturdy janissary of Mr ---- thought +nothing of laying his stick across a fellow's shoulders, by way of +reminder to behave himself. I must say that many of them deserved it, +and for their sakes can but hope that they profited by the attention. + +Mr ---- had two men in attendance upon him, without whom he never +stirred abroad. They were brothers, but filled situations of different +rank. One was dragoman, a post of which the occupation entitled him to +the consideration of a gentleman; the other was merely henchman or +janissary, of which dignity the allocation is in the kitchen. I remember +that it pained me to see one brother walk in to dinner, while the other +poor fellow had to keep guard without. But they seemed well used to the +enforcement of the distinction, and to find therein nothing of +invidiousness. Fine fellows were they both, and highly lauded by their +master. There is surely something extraordinary in these instances, +where men are brought to devote themselves implicitly to a foreign +service, in the heart of their country, and amid the full play of +national prejudices. That they really are faithful followers, is I +believe beyond doubt; and that sometimes under trying circumstances. +With these two individuals especially, we had so much intercourse, that +we were enabled to see how admiration for the English entered into the +main current of their feelings. It so happened that we had come here to +the very place where that early victim to the zeal of travel, Mr +Daniels, had shortly before met his doom. While following in the track +of Mr Fellowes, he caught the fatal Xanthian fever; and after many +relapses died here. That these men were very kind and attentive to him +may be argument only of their humanity. But there was something in the +emotion with which they spoke of him, that betokened a sense of +fellowship, beyond what men of such differing creeds are apt to feel for +a travelling stranger. They spoke of sitting up with him at night, +giving him his medicine, and weeping for him, when there remained no +room for active solicitude. The idea of dying amidst strangers in a +foreign land, with no familiar face at the bed-side, is a desolation +whose thought cannot pass over the spirit without beclouding its +sunniness. And yet we may rely upon it, that amongst those most +affectionately tended and most generously wept, have been they who have +met their last hour under such circumstances. Human hearts all vibrate +in harmony to one chord: in the good this sympathy is ready; in the bad +it is dulled; but never while life and hope remain, can the silver chord +be said to be cut. And so it is, that the same image of the forlorn, +which, as affecting any that we love, appeals at once to the deep wells +of compassion, will cause the same feeling of compassion to thrill with +the remotest stragglers of the family of Adam. It is not a matter of +reasoning, but an instinct. There is in the sight of helpless suffering +a power to disarm human ferocity. And if that be the gentlest +death-pillow that is breathed upon by the prayer and lighted by the eye +of family love, depend upon it that far from the ungentlest is that, +whose presence has brought to rude and rough natures the putting off of +their roughness, and the recognising of the sweet faculty of compassion. +Happy is that desolation, even in the last hour, which can awaken the +heaven-like eagerness to be to the dying one a minister from his far-off +home! A man might be happy so to die, that he might light up so much of +heaven within a human breast. + +Both these _attaches_ of the consulate were men of note. The dragoman +had been captain of a troop of cavalry in the service of Mehemet Ali, +and on some quarrel with his commanding officer had left the service and +kingdom. He was a person of polished manners, and some education, and +thus enabled to produce agreeably in conversation the results of his +experience of many lands and people. He rather astonished us with the +extent to which he carried _jeune France_ principles, that seem so +entirely incompatible with the holding of Mahomedanism. But wonderful it +is to see how the French spirit circulates in the most apathetic +societies, seeming to find in them a latent vitality suited to its +purpose. The manners of a Mussulman are so stereotyped, and his subjects +of conversation so provided for by law, that it seemed quite an anomaly +to see this Turk drinking wine after dinner, and talking like a man of +the world. It would not seem that such an effect on the personal +character is the invariable result of educating a Turk in Paris, though +such an effect is exactly what we might expect. I have met a native of +Constantinople, who had brought back with him from France only the +language and the personal deportment, retaining withal the +anti-reforming spirit of his orthodox brethren. But this spirit of +resistance to innovation is fast fading away; and as innovation once +begun here must lead to revolution, it is not difficult to foresee that +a few more years only shall have passed, when the character of the Turk +will have become historical, and the scenes that at present embellish +their corner of the world, will have to be sought for in the +descriptions of pen and pencil. Whether the influence emanate from the +throne, or whether the court be following the popular metropolitan +movement, it is difficult to say. But among them is assuredly at work +the spirit of change, that must shortly carry away the mouldering +edifice of their present institutions. This is something too vetust to +abide the shock of any agitation. Let us hope that their changes may be +successively biassed towards the better: may they acquire the urbanity +of our great masters in elegance, without their profligacy; and if they +reject Mahomedanism, may it be to receive in exchange something better +than mere infidelity. + +The brother of the _ci-devant_ captain was a quiet, unassuming fellow, +who wanted language to communicate with us freely. Nevertheless he +managed to interest us much, with an account of the sufferings and +trials of his youth. They were by birth Moreote Turks; and in the +revolution of that country, when first the Greeks arose against their +Turkish masters, (for really one must particularise in talking of Greek +revolutions,) they had suffered the loss of all their protecting +kindred, and hardly, children as they were, by some kindly intervention, +been themselves saved. It is a sad thing, but a truth, that in this +exterminating war, the cold-blooded massacreing was not all on one side. +The horror and hatred of these deeds have, with their infamy, rested +chiefly on the Turks, because theirs was the power to exceed in +enormity; but the black veil of guilt rests on both sides of the strife. +Still, however blameable the Greeks may be, for the cruelty committed on +occasion, they were far from having power to work the enormous +destruction of harmless life, whose memory still weighs on the Turkish +power, and whose record is still extant in the evidence of ruined and +dispeopled cities. But a short time before coming to Adalia, we had +visited the island of Scio--that island which once was the garden of the +Levant, and the storehouse of her riches. Even now, the great majority +of the Greek merchants who are so prosperous a body in London, are +Sciotes; and in those days they had pretty well all the commerce of the +Levant in their hands. They delighted themselves in adorning their +beautiful island with the artifices which money can command to the +decorating of nature. At present a mass of ruins defaces that lovely +spot. One is disposed to wonder that the Turks have never been at the +pains to clear away the wreck of the town, if only for the sake of +removing the monument of their cruelty. Mere selfish motives might +induce them to be at that pains, and to restore this island to its +former fitness for the habitations of the rich. At present it is one +wide ruin; noble streets are there, with the shells of their houses +remaining, as they were left in the day of massacre and pillage. The few +inhabitants are stowed away in the one or two odd rooms of the old +mansions that remain; being now reduced to such poverty that they have +had neither spirit nor money to build for themselves; and probably +finding it more congenial to the present spirit of their fortunes to +roost among the bats and owls, rather than in trim streets. One +occurrence gave us much pleasure, because it gave the lie to a story +which has many abettors. It is said that when the garrison in the +fortress, and the fleet before the town, were promoting the havoc, the +English consul, from some punctilio on the subject of neutrality, +refused shelter to the miserables who fled to his threshold. One old +woman, in the story of her sufferings, gave us a full contradiction to +this most incredible tradition. She had invited us into her dwelling to +look at her wares, in the shape of conserves and purses--a strange +combination, but nevertheless the articles by the sale of which they eke +out their living. We were fully consoled for the trouble of passing over +and through the _debris_ of some half-dozen houses which lay between us +and her domicile. It came out that she herself had been saved by flying +to the English consulate. It was a comfort to hear this--and to hear it +in a way that involved the fact of an indefinite number of refugees +having found the same shelter. Many rejoice to say that the French +consul was the only efficient protector in that day of horror; and of +these times, though so recent, it is not easy always to get such correct +information as may sustain a contradiction of popular report. + +In a country of such limited resources in the way of amusement, it was +not very easy for our zealous friends to cater for us, during the long +days that we had to await the answer from the Caimacan. Riding was out +of the question, and there were no antiquities within reach. Thus were +we cut off from the two great resources of men in our position. But they +played their part of entertainers hospitably and well. They told us long +stories of the courts, and of what was to be seen in actual service in +the camp of the Egyptian viceroy. Above all, they did us good by showing +how thoroughly happy the whole party had been rendered by our coming. We +were only afraid that they might become a little too bumptious on the +strength of it, and be after giving us another job. But they did more +than simply bear us company; they bore us to the cool grove, which I +have said we could descry from the deck of our ship, there to be +introduced to certain worthies, and to make _kef_ in their company. +Nothing to my mind comes up to an _al fresco_ entertainment--in proper +season and country, be it understood; for an English gipsy party is a +very different affair. + +Our host conceived it to be a duty incumbent on him to develop, on this +occasion, the full power of the resources of Adalia. We should have been +far better satisfied if he had contented himself with doing things in a +smaller way; but he was bent on magnificence. It was quite treat enough +to lie on the soft turf, with the thick shade above, and to allow the +hours to pass away as they led on evening. But he had been at the +trouble to retain a band of musicians for our sakes. Such a set they +were!--surpassing, in discordant prowess, the worst street musicians +among our beggar melodists. It is quite surprising that invention has so +long slumbered with these native artistes. With Musard concerts and +Wilhelm music-meetings all around them, it is wonderful that they do not +catch the note of something better than their villanous mandolins and +single-noted pipes. Does any one need to be told what a mandolin is? It +is something very different, let me assure him, from the ideal +instrument of Moore's Melodies. Not even the lovely maidens that Moore +paints could render tolerable a performance upon it; whereas it is made +to resound by some especially ugly fellow, whose rascality of +appearance, is relieved by no touch of the poetic. I did once hear a +Turco-Greek lady perform, and on a more civilised instrument--a lady of +high reputation as a performer on the guitar and a vocalist. And seldom +has the spirit of romantic preparation received a more sudden chill than +did mine on that occasion. Nothing could be more outrageously absurd +than the whole thing was--accompaniment and song. I never afterwards was +solicitous to hear an Oriental's musical performance; and am quite +satisfied, that in them dwells no musical faculty, creative or +perceptive: or that at least it is in a dormant state. + +These musicians began with a symphony on the full band--mandolins +leading, drums doing bass, and the whole lot of ugly fellows screeching +forth what might have been esteemed air or accompaniment, as the case +might be. That a sorry musical effect was produced will surprise no one +who considers the build of the most musical of their instruments. The +mandolin is by way of being a guitar, or banjo--only in a very small way +indeed. Nothing has been added to the idea since first Mercury stumbled +on the original _testudo_--indeed, I should guess that the dried sinews +of a tortoise would give out a far purer sound than the jingling wires +with which the mandolin is mounted. I have sometimes stood at the door +of a _cafe_, or, to give it the real name [Greek: kapheneion], and +listened in wonder to the strains of some minstrel holding forth within. +The wonder was, not that the man should play egregiously ill, but that +the effect of good music should be produced by his evil playing. The +people were evidently excited to sorrow when the attempt was at a +mournful strain, and to ardour when the lilt took a loftier flight. To +me who stood by, the difference of intention on the part of the +performer was hardly discernible; indeed to be recognised only by the +occasional catching of some familiar word in the burden of the song. The +same observation may apply to the current Greek poetry. There can be no +mistake in the conclusion, that it produces the effect of real poetry on +the people, urging them in the direction whither works the imagination +of the poet. But men of taste have come to, and can come to, but one +decision on the judgment of Romaic poetasters. The spirit of poetry has +died out of, and is become extinct from the genius of their tongue. It +is but the enthusiasm of by-gone days, the inkling of Attic glory, that +lingers about the circumstances of their modern productions, and cheats +men with the mere similarity of idiom. Poetry is of universal +application, and were the pretensions of the modern Greek genuine, his +productions would touch the hearts of the poetic of other lands. + +These fellows who entertained us on this occasion, struck a good deal of +enthusiasm out of their jingle,--enthusiasm to themselves, be it +remarked, and not to us. I saw them grow sad in face, while the strain +proceeded at a slow pace, and the _voce di canto_ degenerated into a +more lugubrious howl than ever. By these tokens, I judged them to be +singing some tale of sorrow, and so it seemed they were. The gentleman +who performed for us the part of Chorus, gave us to wit, that they were +lamenting the fall of Algiers, and imprecating maledictions on the head +of the French. This they evidently considered a delicate and appropriate +attention to us as Englishmen. I was only surprised to find they entered +so far into the family distinctions of the Franks. There was some heart, +too, in the manner in which they gesticulated and declaimed; and I have +little doubt but that they were in earnest--especially if any of these +happened to have friends or relations down that way, who had been roused +out of house and home by the Gallic Avatar. When they were tired with +singing, or perhaps presumed that they had therewith tired us, they took +to playing the fool. Not merely in a general sense, in which they may be +said to have been so engaged all along; but with heavy effort, and under +the express direction of a professional master of the ceremonies. The +Adalian jester was a tall ugly fellow, who had considerable power of +comic expression in his face, but whose forte lay in a cap of fantastic +device. It was made of the skin of some animal, whose genus I will not +venture to guess; and had been contrived in such fashion that the tail +hung over the top, and whisked about at the caprice of the wearer. This +was a never-failing source of amusement to the performer himself, as +well as to the native bystanders. As he bobbed his head up and down, and +ran after this tail, the people burst into peals of laughter. They were +quite taken up with the exhibition, except when they stole a moment now +and then for a peep to see how the Frank visitors were amused with their +wit. Besides this, the jester had a number of practical jokes, such as +coming quietly along-side of some unsuspecting person, and catching hold +of his leg, barking loudly the while, so as to make him think that some +dog had bitten him. But this part of the performance was decidedly +coarse, and did not improve our idea of the civilisation of the place. A +good deal of sketching was going on in the course of this day; and the +visages of some of these musicians, and especially of the jester, and of +a blind old choragus, have been handed down to the posterity of our +affectionate friends. We had a visit this day of a gentler kind. A Greek +lady, the owner of considerable landed property in the place, came with +her youthful daughter to interchange civilities with us. She was a +plain, almost ugly old woman; but, like nine out of ten of all women +extant, was of kind and _feminine_ disposition. Moreover, like the rest +of the ladies, she was very fond of talking; but, on this particular +occasion, unhappily could speak no single word that would convey meaning +to us. Still it was not to be expected that she could hold her tongue; +so she squatted down by us, and talked, perhaps all the faster because +she had the conversation all to herself. Her daughter was a young lady, +whom by appearance in England, you would call somewhere in her teens; +but, hereaway they are so precocious that one is constantly deceived in +guessing their age. She would have been pretty if she had been clean; +and was abundantly and expensively ornamented. Sometimes we hear it +figuratively said of a domestic coquette, that she carries all her +property on her back. These Greeks must be well off, if it may not +sometimes be so said with propriety of them. They have a plan of +advertising a young lady's assets, in a manner that must be most +satisfactory to fortune-hunters, and prevent the mistakes that with us +constantly foil the best-laid plans. They turn a girl's fortune into +money, and hang it--it, the fortune proper--the [Greek: poion] and the +[Greek: poson]--about her neck. They do not buy jewels worth so many +hundreds or tens--but transpierce the actual coin, and of them compose a +necklace of whose value there can be no doubt, and whose fashion is not +very variable. This may be called a fair and above-board way of doing +things. The swain, as he sits by the beloved object, may amuse himself +by counting the number of precious links in the chain that is drawing +him into matrimony, and debate within himself, on sure data, the +question whether or no he shall yield to the gentle influence. There +would not have been much doubt about the monetary recommendations of +this young lady, for she was abundantly gilt, as became the daughter of +one reputed so rich as the old lady. Poor girls! It makes one sad to +look upon them, brought up with so little idea of what is girlish and +beautiful; to see them ignorant yet sophisticated, bejeweled and +unwashed. This poor child was decked out in the most absurd manner, and +sat for admiration most palpably. She also sat for something else, which +was her picture. This was taken by several of the party, so much to the +satisfaction of mother and daughter, that the old lady insisted on +taking her turn as model. We invariably found them pleased with the +productions of our art in these cases, and satisfied of the correctness +of the likeness. The only objections they would occasionally make, would +refer to the pretermission of some such thing as a tassel in the cap. +The fidelity of the likeness they took implicitly on trust. + +I have said we could not talk to this old lady, Greek though she was, +furnished though some of us were with the language of her compatriots. +The deficiency was on her part--not on ours. She could not speak one +single word of her own language. And so it is, that of all the Greeks of +Adalia, not one can converse in the language of their fathers. Separated +from their countrymen, they have become almost a distinct race; and, +losing that language of which they have no practice, have learnt to use +as their own the vernacular of the land in which they are immigrants of +such antique standing. They talk Turkish--live almost like Turks; and by +their religion only are distinguished from their neighbours. For +religious purposes they use their own language: and, by consequence, +understand no single word of the ritual or lessons. This is certainly a +singular national position--impossible, except from religious +prevention. It is just the reverse of what may be seen elsewhere: for +instance, in the mountains of Thessaly you find a colony of Germans, +who, though completely shut in by the people of the land, and holding +intercourse with none other, remain foreigners and Germans, resisting +the tendency to amalgamation. So in Sicily you find the _Piana della +Grecia_, where the original Greek colonists have kept their language and +customs in their integrity. But where else, save in this one spot, will +you find people who, after having imbibed the influences of the country +to the extent of adoption of its language, have been able to resist +amalgamation with its denizens in every respect? + +By the bye, these people have opened a sort of royal road to the +acquisition of the Turkish language. The orthography of this language is +a most vexed and perplexed affair. Those who have made the attempt to +master its difficulties may say something in its vituperation; but the +practice of many of those who are well acquainted therewith, says a +great deal more. These Greeks, for instance, though they have adopted +this language as their own, and have been accustomed in no other to lisp +to their nurses, have altogether discarded the orthography. They speak +as do the natives, but write in their own character; accommodating the +flexible capabilities of their alphabet to the purposes of Turkish +orthoepy. Thus have you the means of reading Turkish in a familiar +character, which also has the advantage of presenting your words in a +definite form. The real Turkish alphabet is any thing but definite; at +least to one within any decent term of years of his commencing the +study. This is a mode of teaching which I have known to be insisted on +by at least one good master: though of course the man of any ambition +would regard this byway to knowledge as merely a step preliminary in the +course. + +This was not the only party at which we assisted during our visit. A +rich Greek merchant invited us to enjoy the coolness of evening in his +gardens. It was duly impressed on our minds by the gentleman of the +place that this old fellow was worth his weight in gold. They did say +that his name was good for L150,000--a long figure, certainly, to meet +in such a place. He was a quiet-looking, unpretending person, with very +much the air of a moneyed man. The hope that we had formed of seeing a +display of the youth and fashion of Adalia was disappointed. It was by +all express relaxation of the law of etiquette that we had the +opportunity of seeing even the one or two ladies belonging to the +family. Greeks, in their own country, though exceedingly jealous, and +apt to build up alarms on the slightest foundation, are yet by no means +chary in showing their women. In-doors and out, you will meet them, both +old and young; and perfectly unconstrained and companionable you will +find them. But here the case is far otherwise. They have acquired so +much of Mussulman notions, that they do not allow their women to mix in +society. This is the general rule: more pliant to occasion than the law +of the Turks, which never yields. And not only here is there a strong +feeling on this subject: the same prejudice prevails widely in the +Turco-Greek islands. For instance, in Mytilene, on occasion of taking +that long excursion which I have already mentioned, we observed that all +the women we met were old and ugly. From this observed fact we drew +conclusions unfavourable to the general appearance and presentability of +the Mytilenian ladies. But subsequently we found the reason of the +phenomenon to be, that the young and pretty girls were kept within +doors, and the old ones alone allowed the privilege of walking forth--a +difference of condition that might almost induce the girls of Mytilene +to wish for age and wrinkles. + +They did not, at Adalia, use us quite so ill as to withhold their ladies +from the entertainment. The mother was there and a daughter--a young +lady with the romantic name of Dudu. With such a name as this she ought +to have been very pretty, and certainly she did not fall far short of +such condition. It was clearly to be perceived that she was unaccustomed +to mix in general society, and that the company of strange men disturbed +her. But she was not ungraceful either in manner or dress, or in her +evident desire to please. The place of our reception was in the central +court, which the best kind of houses preserve--a contrivance which gives +to each of the four sides on which the building is disposed, the +advantages of a pure and thorough current of air. Here we sat drinking +sherbet, and, of course, smoking the unfailing chibouque. The lady +mother was painfully anxious to talk to us, and pretty Miss Dudu was +seriously bent on listening; but we could not manage to execute a +colloquy. All the civil things imaginable were expressed to us by +gesture, and the young lady came out strong in the presentation of +bouquets. One fortunate man received from her an orange, the only one +remaining at that time in the garden; this we persuaded ourselves must, +in their symbolical language, imply a declaration of some soft interest. +Miss Dudu would not have been such a very bad _parti_, being, as she +was, the sole heritress of her father's thousands. However, she was, we +understood, engaged already to a youth, who was obeying the cruel law +prevalent in this place, which compels the accepted swain to absent +himself from his inamorata for a long probation. I think the time was +said to be a year; during which no communication must pass between the +parties. Should the first overtures of a suitor be rejected, it is a +settled matter of etiquette, that he never again is to see or speak to +the young lady. This must be likely, we would think, to render a man +cautious in proposing: but certainly it must tend to lessen the number +of eventual old maids, by rendering the young ladies also chary of +saying No, when they mean Yes. On the whole, we can scarcely admire +their matrimonial tactics. We found that we were among a family of +Hadjis. Miss Dudu was a Hadji, and so were her father and mother. In +their case the place of pilgrimage is Jerusalem, a visit to which +confers on them the respectable title of Hadji for life. This old +gentleman had made a pious use of some of his money, by promoting the +cause of pilgrimage among his less opulent brethren. The desire to tread +the holy soil is common to them all; not only to the religious. These +have their motives; but so also have the disorderly and wicked, who +think that a world of cheating and ill-living is covered over by the +wholesome cloak of pilgrimage. There are also certain less considerable +places of pilgrimage, invested with considerable sanctity, though +inferior in character to the one great rendezvous of the religious. +Health to body seems often the expected result of visits to these +secondary places, to which recourse will frequently be had when medical +aid has failed to be available. Dudu's father had made himself highly +popular by chartering a vessel, and conveying, for charity's sake, as +many devotees as chose to go on one of these minor expeditions. The +island of Cyprus has a convent of peculiar sanctity, a visit to which is +highly esteemed as an antidote to bodily ills. He gave a great number +the opportunity of testing the truth of the tradition. + +It was not bad fun, after all, tarrying a few days in Adalia: only, by +choice, we would hardly choose that particular season for the excursion. +What between the Consul's gardens, and the old Greek, and the little bit +of business we had upon our hands, we managed to get through the time +pleasantly enough. We saw that we had here a good specimen of the +variety of life commonly described as deadly-lively. Were it not that +they have such a lot of strangers constantly passing through the place, +they might seem to be in danger of a moral_anchylosis_--of falling into +a state of mind so rusty, as to be incapable of direction to any object, +save such as lay before them, in the way of immediate physical +requirement. The few days that we remained there did not afford time +enough for the disease to make much head with us. Indeed, for us it was +a variety of experience, sufficiently stirring for the time, to mark the +ways of a people so deeply buried in imperturbability and incuriosity. + +I think we were not sorry when at last the messenger returned from the +Caimacan, and we found we were in condition to leave the place. The +Consul was set on his legs again, and the English name in better odour +than ever. The _attaches_ of the consulate had taken care that our visit +should fail in no degree of its wholesome influence, for want of their +good word; and I fancy that the town's people thought themselves rather +well off that we left their town standing. We left, too, with the full +reputation for merciful dealing; as we had spared the poor soap-rioters +the infliction of the bastinado. + +And so we sped on our way to Rhodes. + + + + +PACIFIC ROVINGS.[C] + + +We were much puzzled, a few weeks since, by a tantalising and +unintelligible paragraph, pertinaciously reiterated in the London +newspapers. Its brevity equalled its mystery; it consisted but of five +words, the first and last in imposing majuscules. Thus it ran:-- + + "OMOO, by the author of TYPEE." + +With Trinculo we exclaimed, "What have we here? a man or a fish? dead or +alive?" Who or what were Typee and Omoo? Were things or creatures thus +designated? Did they exist on the earth, or in the air, or in the waters +under the earth; were they spiritual or material, vegetable or mineral, +brute or human? Were they newly-discovered planets, nicknamed whilst +awaiting baptism, or strange fossils, contemporaries of the Megatherium, +or Magyar dissyllables from Dr Bowring's vocabulary? Perchance they were +a pair of new singers for the Garden, or a fresh brace of beasts for the +legitimate drama at Drury. Omoo might be the heavy elephant; Typee the +light-comedy camel. Did danger lurk in the enigmatical words? Were they +obscure intimations of treasonable designs, Swing advertisements, or +masonic signs? Was the palace at Westminster in peril? had an agent of +sure of Barbarossa Joinville undermined the Trafalgar column? Were they +conspirators' watchwords, lovers' letters, signals concerted between the +robbers of Rogers's bank? We tried them anagrammatically, but in vain: +there was nought to be made of Omoo; shake it as we would, the O's came +uppermost; and by reversing Typee we obtained but a pitiful result. At +last a bright gleam broke through the mist of conjecture. Omoo was a +book. The outlandish title that had perplexed us was intended to +perplex; it was a bait thrown out to that wide-mouthed fish, the public; +a specimen of what is theatrically styled _gag_. Having but an +indifferent opinion of books ushered into existence by such +charlatanical manoeuvres, we thought no more of Omoo, until, musing +the other day over our matutinal hyson, the volume itself was laid +before us, and we suddenly found ourselves in the entertaining society +of Marquesan Melville, the phoenix of modern voyagers, sprung, it +would seem, from the mingled ashes of Captain Cook and Robin Crusoe. + +Those who have read M. Herman Melville's former work will remember, +those who have not are informed by the introduction to the present one, +that the author, an educated American, whom circumstances had shipped as +a common sailor on board a South-Seaman, was left by his vessel on the +island of Nukuheva, one of the Marquesan group. Here he remained some +months, until taken off by a Sydney whaler, short-handed, and glad to +catch him. At this point of his adventures he commences Omoo. The title +is borrowed from the dialect of the Marquesas, and signifies a rover: +the book is excellent, quite first-rate, the "clear grit," as Mr +Melville's countrymen would say. Its chief fault, almost its only one, +interferes little with the pleasure of reading it, will escape many, and +is hardly worth insisting upon. Omoo is of the order composite, a +skilfully concocted Robinsonade, where fictitious incident is +ingeniously blended with genuine information. Doubtless its author has +visited the countries he describes, but not in the capacity he states. +He is no Munchausen; there is nothing improbable in his adventures, save +their occurrence to himself, and that he should have been a man before +the mast on board South-Sea traders, or whalers, or on any ship or ships +whatever. His speech betrayeth him. His voyages and wanderings +commenced, according to his own account, at least as far back as the +year 1838; for aught we know they are not yet at an end. On leaving +Tahiti in 1843, he made sail for Japan, and the very book before us may +have been scribbled on the greasy deck of a whaler, whilst floating +amidst the coral reefs of the wide Pacific. True that in his preface, +and in the month of January of the present year, Mr Melville hails from +New York; but in such matters we really place little dependence upon +him. From his narrative we gather that this literary and gentlemanly +common-sailor is quite a young man. His life, therefore, since he +emerged from boyhood, has been spent in a ship's forecastle, amongst the +wildest and most ignorant class of mariners. Yet his tone is refined and +well-bred; he writes like one accustomed to good European society, who +has read books and collected stores of information, other than could be +perused or gathered in the places and amongst the rude associates he +describes. These inconsistencies are glaring, and can hardly be +explained. A wild freak or unfortunate act of folly, or a boyish thirst +for adventure, sometimes drives lads of education to try life before the +mast, but when suited for better things they seldom persevere; and Mr +Melville does not seem to us the manner of man to rest long contented +with the coarse company and humble lot of merchant seamen. Other +discrepancies strike us in his book and character. The train of +suspicion once lighted, the flame runs rapidly along. Our misgivings +begin with the title-page. "Lovel or Belville," says the Laird of +Monkbarns, "are just the names which youngsters are apt to assume on +such occasions." And Herman Melville sounds to us vastly like the +harmonious and carefully selected appellation of an imaginary hero of +romance. Separately the names are not uncommon; we can urge no valid +reason against their junction, and yet in this instance they fall +suspiciously on our ear. We are similarly impressed by the dedication. +Of the existence of Uncle Gansevoort, of Gansevoort, Saratoga County, we +are wholly incredulous. We shall commission our New York correspondents +to inquire as to the reality of Mr Melville's avuncular relative, and, +until certified of his corporality, shall set down the gentleman with +the Dutch patronymic as a member of an imaginary clan. + +Although glad to escape from Nukuheva, where he had been held in a sort +of honourable captivity, Typee--the _alias_ bestowed upon the rover by +his new shipmates, after the valley whence they rescued him--was but +indifferently pleased with the vessel on which he left it, and whose +articles he signed as a seaman for one cruise. The Julia was of a +beautiful model, and on or before a wind she sailed like a witch; but +that was all that could be said in her praise. She was rotten to the +core, incommodious, and ill-provided, badly manned, and worse commanded. +American-built, she dated from the Short war, had served as a privateer, +been taken by the British, passed through many vicissitudes, and was in +no condition for a long cruise in the Pacific. So mouldering was her +fabric, that the reckless sailors, when seated in the forecastle, dug +their knives into the dank boards between them and eternity as easily as +into the moist sides of some old pollard oak. She was much dilapidated +and rapidly becoming more so; for Black Baltimore, the ship's cook, when +in want of firewood, did not scruple to hack splinters from the bits and +beams. Lugubrious indeed was the aspect of the forecastle. Landsmen, +whose ideas of a sailor's sleeping-place are taken from the snow-white +hammocks and exquisitely clean berth-deck of a man of war, or from the +rough, but substantial comfort of a well-appointed merchantman, can form +no conception of the surpassing and countless abominations of a +South-Sea whaler. The "Little Jule," as her crew affectionately styled +her, was a craft of two hundred tons or thereabouts; she had sailed with +thirty-two hands, whom desertion had reduced to twenty, but these were +too many for the cramped and putrid nook in which they slept, ate, and +smoked, and alternately desponded or were jovial, as sickness and +discomfort, or a Saturday night's bottle and hopes of better luck, got +the upper hand. Want of room, however, was one of the least grievances +of which the Julia's crew complained. It was a mere trifle, not worth +the naming. They could have submitted to close stowage had the dunnage +been decent. But instead of swinging in cosy hammocks, they slept in +_bunks_ or wretched pigeon-holes, on fragments of sails, unclean rags, +blanket-shreds, and the like. Such unenviable accommodations ought +hardly to have been disputed with their luckless possessors, who +nevertheless were not allowed to occupy in peace their broken-down bunks +and scanty bedding. Two races of creatures, time out of mind the curse +of old ships in warm latitudes, infested the Julia's forecastle, +resisting all efforts to dislodge or exterminate them, sometimes even +getting the upper hand, dispossessing the tortured mariners, and driving +them on deck in terror and despair. The sick only, hapless martyrs +unable to leave their cribs, lay passive, if not resigned, and were +trampled under foot by their ferocious and unfragrant foes. These were +rats and cockroaches. Typee--we use the name he bore during his Julian +tribulations--records a singular phenomenon in the nocturnal habits of +the last-named vermin. "Every night they had a jubilee. The first +symptom was an unusual clustering and humming amongst the swarms lining +the beams overhead, and the inside of the sleeping-places. This was +succeeded by a prodigious coming and going on the part of those living +out of sight. Presently they all came forth; the larger sort racing over +the chests and planks; winged monsters darting to and fro in the air; +and the small fry buzzing in heaps almost in a state of fusion. On the +first alarm, all who were able darted on deck; while some of the sick, +who were too feeble, lay perfectly quiet, the distracted vermin running +over them at pleasure. The performance lasted some ten minutes." Persons +there are, weak enough to view with loathing and aversion certain sable +insects that stray at night in kitchen or in pantry, and barbarous +enough to circumvent and destroy the odoriferous coleopterae by artful +devices of glass traps and scarlet wafers. Such persons will probably +form their ideas of Typee's cockroaches from their own domestic +opportunities of observation. That were unjust to the crew of the Julia, +and would give no adequate idea of their sufferings. As a purring tabby +to a roaring jaguar, so is a British black-beetle to a cock-roach of the +Southern Seas. We back our assertion by a quotation from our lamented +friend Captain Cringle, who in his especially graphic and attractive +style thus hits off the peculiarities of this graceful insect. "When +full grown," saith Thomas, "it is a large dingy brown-coloured beetle, +about two inches long, with six legs, and two feelers as long as its +body. It has a strong anti-hysterical flavour, something between rotten +cheese and asafoetida, and seldom stirs abroad when the sun is up, but +lies concealed in the most obscure and obscene crevices it can creep +into; so that, when it is seen, its wings and body are thickly covered +with dust and dirt of various shades, which any culprit who chances to +fall asleep with his mouth open, is sure to reap the benefit of, as it +has a great propensity to walk into it, partly for the sake of the +crumbs adhering to the masticators, and also, apparently, with a +scientific desire to inspect, by accurate admeasurement with the +aforesaid antennae, the state and condition of the whole potato-trap." A +description worthy of Buffon. Such were the delicate monsters, the +savoury sexipedes, with whom Typee and his comrades had to wage +incessant war. They were worse even than the rats, which were certainly +bad enough. "Tame as Trenck's mouse, they stood in their holes, peering +at you like old grandfathers in a doorway;" watching for their prey, and +disputing with the sailors the weevil-biscuit, rancid pork, and +horse-beef, composing the Julia's stores; or smothering themselves, the +luscious vermin, in molasses, which thereby acquired a rich wood-cock +flavour, whose cause became manifest when the treacle-jar ran low, +greatly to the disgust and consternation of the biped consumers. There +were no delicate feeders on board, but this saccharine essence of rat +was too much even for the unscrupulous stomachs of South-Sea whalers. A +queer set they were on board that Sydney barque. Paper Jack, the +captain, was a feeble Cockney, of meek spirit and puny frame, who glided +about the vessel in a nankeen jacket and canvass pumps, a laughing-stock +to his crew. The real command devolved upon the chief mate, John +Jermin--a good sailor and brave fellow, but violent, and given to drink. +The junior mate had deserted; of the four harpooners only one was left, +a fierce barbarian of a New Zealander--an excellent mariner, whose stock +of English was limited to nautical phrases and a frightful power of +oath, but who, in spite of his cannibal origin, ranked as a sort of +officer, in virtue of his harpoon, and took command of the ship when +mate and captain were absent. What a capital story, by the bye, Typee +tells us of one of this Bembo's whaling exploits! New Zealanders are +brave and bloodthirsty, and excellent harpooners, and they act up to the +South-Seaman's war-cry, "A dead whale or a stove boat!" There is a world +of wild romance and thrilling adventure in the occasional glimpses of +the whale fishery afforded us in Omoo; a strange picturesqueness and +piratical mystery about the lawless class of seamen engaged in it. Such +a portrait gallery as Typee makes out of the Julia's crew, beginning +with Chips and Bungs, the carpenter and cooper, the "Cods," or leaders +of the forecastle, and descending until he arrives at poor Rope Yarn, or +Ropey, as he was called, a stunted journeyman baker from Holborn, the +most helpless and forlorn of all land-lubbers, the butt and drudge of +the ship's company! A Dane, a Portuguese, a Finlander, a savage +from Hivarhoo, sundry English, Irish, and Americans, a daring +Yankee _beach-comber_, called Salem, and Sydney Ben, a runaway +ticket-of-leave-man, made up a crew much too weak to do any good in the +whaling way. But the best fellow on board, and by far the most +remarkable, was a disciple of Esculapius, known as Doctor Long-Ghost. +Jermin is a good portrait; so is Captain Guy; but Long-Ghost is a jewel +of a boy, a complete original, hit off with uncommon felicity. Nothing +is told us of his early life. Typee takes him up on board the Julia, +shakes hands with him in the last page of the book, and informs us that +he has never since seen or heard of him. So we become acquainted with +but a small section of the doctor's life; his subsequent adventures are +unknown, and, save a chance hint or two, his previous career is a +mystery, unfathomable as the Tahitian coast, where, within a biscuit's +toss of the coral shore, soundings there are none. Now and then he would +obscurely refer to days more palmy and prosperous than those spent on +board the Julia. But however great the contrast between his former +fortunes and his then lowly position, he exhibited much calm philosophy +and cheerful resignation. He was even merry and facetious, a practical +wag of the very first order, and as such a great favourite with the +whole ship's company, the captain excepted. He had arrived at Sydney in +an emigrant ship, had expended his resources, and entered as doctor on +board the Julia. All British whalers are bound to carry a medico, who is +treated as a gentleman, so long as he behaves as such, and has nothing +to do but to drug the men and play drafts with the captain. At first +Long-Ghost and Captain Guy hit it off very well; until, in an unlucky +hour, a dispute about politics destroyed their harmonious association. +The captain got a thrashing; the mutinous doctor was put in confinement +and on bread and water, ran away from the ship, was pursued, captured, +and again imprisoned. Released at last, he resigned his office, refused +to do duty, and went forward amongst the men. This was more magnanimous +than wise. Long-Ghost was a sort of medical Tom Coffin, a raw-boned +giant, upwards of two yards high, one of those men to whom the +between-decks of a small craft is a residence little less afflicting +than one of Cardinal Balue's iron cages. And to one who "had certainly, +at some time or other, spent money, drunk Burgundy, and associated with +gentlemen," the Julia's forecastle must have contained a host of +disagreeables, irrespective of rats and cockroaches, of its low roof, +evil odours, damp timbers, and dungeon-like aspect. The captain's table, +if less luxurious than that of a royal yacht or New York liner, surely +offered something better than the biscuits, hard as gun-flints and +thoroughly honeycombed, and the shot-soup, "great round peas polishing +themselves like pebbles by rolling about in tepid water," on which the +restive man of medicine was fain to exercise his grinders during his +abode forward. As regarded society, he lost little by relinquishing that +of Guy the Cockney, since he obtained in exchange the intimacy of +Melville the Yankee, who, to judge from his book, must be exceeding good +company, and to whom he was a great resource. The doctor was a man of +learning and accomplishments, who had made the most of his time whilst +the sun shone on his side the hedge, and had rolled his ungainly carcass +over half the world. "He quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbes of +Malmsbury, besides repeating poetry by the canto, especially Hudibras. +In the easiest way imaginable, he could refer to an amour he had in +Palermo, his lion-hunting before breakfast among the Caffres, and the +quality of the coffee to be drunk in Muscat." Strangely must such +reminiscences have sounded in a whaler's forecastle, with Dunks the +Dane, Finland Van, and Wymontoo the Savage, for auditors. + +The Julia had hitherto had little luck in her cruise, and could scarcely +hope for better in the state in which Typee found her. Besides the +losses by desertion, her crew was weakened by disease. Several of the +men lay sick in their berths, wholly unfit for duty. The captain himself +was ill, and all would have derived benefit from a short sojourn in +port; but this could not be thought of. The discipline of the ship was +bad, and the sailors, desperate and unruly fellows, discontented, as +well they might be, with their wretched provisions and uncomfortable +state, were not to be trusted on or near shore. Three-fourths of them, +had they once set foot on dry land, would have absconded, taken refuge +in the woods or amongst the savages, and have submitted to any amount of +tattoo, paint, and nose-ringing, rather than return to the ship. +Already, at St Christina, one of the Marquesas, a large party had made +their escape in two of the four whale-boats, scuttling the third, and +cutting the tackles of the fourth nearly through, so that when Bembo +jumped in to clear it away, man and boat went souse into the water. By +the assistance of a French corvette, and by bribing the king of the +country with a musket and ammunition, the fugitives were captured. But +it was more than probable that they and others would renew the attempt +should opportunity offer; so there was no alternative but to keep the +sea, and hope for better days and for the convalescence of the invalids. +Two of these died. Neither Bible nor Prayer-book were on board the +godless craft, and like dogs, without form of Christian burial, the dead +were launched into the deep. The situation of the survivors inspired +with considerable uneasiness the few amongst them capable of reflection. +The captain was ignorant of navigation; it was the mate who, from the +commencement of the voyage, had kept the ship's reckoning, and kept it +all to himself. He had only to get washed overboard in a gale, or to +walk over in a drunken fit, to leave his shipmates in a fix of the most +unpleasant description, ignorant of latitude, longitude, and of +everything else necessary to be known to guide the vessel on her course. +And as to the sperm whales, which Jermin had promised them in such +abundance that they would only have to strike and take, not a single fin +showed itself. At last the captain was reported dying, and the mate took +counsel with Long-Ghost, Typee, and others of the crew. He would gladly +have continued the cruise, but his wish was overruled, and the whaler's +stern was turned towards the Society Islands. + +The first glimpse of the peaks of Tahiti was hailed with transport by +the Julia's weary mariners. They had got a notion that if the captain +left the ship, their articles were no longer binding, and they should be +free to follow his example. And, at any rate, the sickness on board and +the shaky condition of the barque, guaranteed them, as they thought, +long and blissful leisure amongst the waving palm-groves and soft-eyed +Neuhas of Polynesia. Their arrival in sight of Papeetee, the Tahitian +capital, was welcomed by the boom of cannon. The frigate Reine Blanche, +at whose fore flew the flag of Admiral Du Petit Thouars, thus celebrated +the compulsory treaty, concluded that morning, by which the island was +ceded to the French. + +Captain Guy and his baggage were now set on shore, and it was soon +apparent to his men that whilst he nursed himself in the pure climate +and pleasant shades of Tahiti, they were to put to sea under the mate's +orders, and after a certain time to touch again at the island, and take +off their commander. The vessel was not even allowed to go into port, +although needing repairs, and in fact unseaworthy; and as to healing the +sick, selfish Paper Jack thought only of solacing his own infirmities. +The fury of the ill-fed, reckless, discontented crew, on discovering the +project of their superiors, passed all bounds. Chips and Bungs +volunteered to head a mutiny, and a round-robin was drawn up and signed. +But when Wilson, an old acquaintance of Guy's, and acting consul in the +absence of missionary Pritchard, came on board, the gallant cooper, who +derived much of his courage from the grog-kid, was cowed and craven. The +grievances brought forward, amongst others that of the _salt-horse_, (a +horse's hoof with the shoe on, so swore the cook, had been found in the +pickle,) were treated as trifles and pooh-poohed by the functionary, "a +minute gentleman with a viciously pugged nose, and a decidedly thin pair +of legs." But if Bungs allowed himself to be brow-beaten, so did not his +comrades. Yankee Salem flourished a bowie-knife, and such alarming +demonstrations were made, that the _counsellor_, as the sailors +persisted in calling the consul, thought it wise to beat a retreat. +Jermin now tried his hand, holding out brilliant prospects of a rich +cargo of sperm oil, and a pocket-full of dollars for every man on his +return to Sydney. The mutineers were proof alike against menace and +blandishment, and, at the secret instigation of Long Ghost and Typee, +resolutely refused to do duty. The consul, who had promised to return, +did not show; and at last the mate, having now but a few invalids and +landsmen to work the ship and keep her off shore, was compelled to enter +the harbour. The Julia came to an anchor within cable's length of the +French frigate, on board which consul Wilson repaired to obtain +assistance. The Reine Blanche was to sail in a few days for Valparaiso, +and the mutineers expected to go with her and be delivered up to a +British man-of-war. Undismayed by this prospect, they continued stanch +in their contumacy, and presently an armed cutter, "painted a 'pirate +black,' its crew a dark, grim-looking set, and the officers uncommonly +fierce-looking little Frenchmen," conveyed them on board the frigate, +where they were duly handcuffed, and secured by the ankle to a great +iron bar bolted down to the berth-deck. + +Touching the proceedings on board the French man-of-war, its imperfect +discipline, and the strange, un-nautical way of carrying on the duty, +Typee is jocular and satirical. American though he be--and, but for +occasional slight yankeeisms in his style, we might have doubted even +that fact--he has evidently much more sympathy with his cousin John Bull +than with his country's old allies, the French, whom he freely admits to +be a clever and gallant nation, whilst he broadly hints that their +valour is not likely to be displayed to advantage on the water. He finds +too much of the military style about their marine institutions. Sailors +should be fighting men, but not soldiers or musket-carriers, as they all +are in turn in the French navy. He laughs at or objects to every thing; +the mustaches of the officers, the system of punishment, the sour wine +that replaces rum and water, the soup instead of junk, the pitiful +little rolls baked on board, and distributed in lieu of hard biscuit. +And whilst praising the build of their ships--the only thing about them +he does praise--he ejaculates a hope, which sounds like a doubt, that +they will not some day fall into the hands of the people across the +Channel. "In case of war," he says, "what a fluttering of French ensigns +there would be! for the Frenchman makes but an indifferent seaman, and +though for the most part he fights well enough, somehow or other, he +seldom fights well enough to beat:"--at sea, be it understood. We are +rather at a loss to comprehend the familiarity shown by Typee with the +internal arrangements and architecture of the Reine Blanche. His time on +board was passed in fetters; at nightfall on the fifth day he left the +ship. How, we are curious to know, did he become acquainted with the +minute details of "the crack craft in the French navy," with the +disposition of her guns and decks, the complicated machinery by which +certain exceedingly simple things were done, and even with the rich +hangings, mirrors, and mahogany of the commodore's cabin? Surely the +ragged and disreputable mutineer of the Julia, whose foot had scarcely +touched the gangway, when he was hurried into confinement below, could +have had scanty opportunity for such observations: unless, indeed, +Herman Melville, or Typee, or the Rover, or by whatever other _alias_ he +be known, instead of creeping in at the hawse-holes, was welcomed on the +quarter-deck and admitted to the gun-room, or to the commodore's cabin, +an honoured guest in broad-cloth, not a despised merchant seaman in +canvass frock and hat of tarpaulin. We shall not dwell on these small +inconsistencies and oversights in an amusing book. We prefer +accompanying the Julia's crew to Tahiti, where they were put on shore +contrary to their expectations, and not altogether to their +satisfaction, since they had anticipated a rapid run to Valparaiso, the +fag-end of a cruise in an English man-of-war, and a speedy discharge at +Portsmouth. Paper Jack and Consul Wilson had other designs, and still +hoped to reclaim them to their duty on board the crazy Julia. On their +stubborn refusal, they were given in charge to a fat, good-humoured, old +Tahitian, called Captain Bob, who, at the head of an escort of natives, +conveyed them up the country to a sort of shed, known as the Calabooza +Beretanee or English jail, used as a prison for refractory sailors. This +commences Typee's shore-going adventures, not less pleasant and original +than his sea-faring ones; although it is with some regret that we lose +sight of the vermin-haunted barque, on whose board such strange and +exciting scenes occurred. + +Throughout the book, however, fun and incident abound, and we are +consoled for our separation from poor little Jule, by the curious +insight we obtain into the manners, morals, and condition of the gentle +savages, on whom an attempted civilisation has brought far more curses +than blessings. + + "How pleasant were the songs of Toobonai," + +how gladsome and grateful the rustle of leaves and tinkle of rills, and +silver-toned voices of Tahitian maidens, to the rough seamen who had so +long been "cabined, cribbed, confined," in the Julia's filthy +forecastle! Not that they were allowed free range of the Eden of the +South Seas. On board the Reine Blanche their ankles had been manacled to +an iron bar; in the Calabooza, (from the Spanish _calabozo_, a dungeon,) +they were placed in rude wooden stocks twenty feet long, constructed for +the particular benefit of refractory mariners. There they lay, merry men +all of a row, fed upon _taro_ (Indian turnip) and bread-fruit, and +covered up at night with one huge counterpane of brown _tappa_, the +native cloth. It was owing to no friendly indulgence on the part of Guy +and the consul, that their diet was so agreeable and salutary. Every +morning Ropey came grinning into the prison, with a bucket full of the +old worm-eaten biscuit from the Julia. It was a huge treat to the +unfortunate Cockney, thus to be instrumental in the annoyance of his +former persecutors; and lucky for him that their limbo'd legs prevented +their rewarding his visible exultation otherwise than by a shower of +maledictions. They swore to starve rather than consume the maggoty +provender. Luckily the natives had it in very different estimation. They +did not mind maggots, and held British biscuit to be a piquant and +delicious delicacy. So in exchange for their allotted ration, the +mutineers obtained a small quantity of vegetable food, and an unlimited +supply of oranges, thanks to which refreshing regimen the sick were +speedily restored to health. And after a few days of stocks and +submission, jolly old Captain Bob, who spoke sailor's English, and +obstinately claimed intimacy with Captain Cook,--whose visit to the +island had occurred some years before his birth--relaxed his severity, +and allowed the captives their freedom during the day. They profited of +this permission to forage a little, in a quiet way; assisting at +pig-killings, and dropping in at dinner-time upon the wealthier of their +neighbours. Tahitian hospitality is boundless, and the more praiseworthy +that the island, although so fertile, produces but a scanty amount of +edibles. Bread-fruit is the chief resource; fish, a very important one, +the chief dependence of many of the poorer natives. There is little +industry amongst them, and on the spontaneous produce of the soil the +shipping make heavy demands. Polynesian indolence is proverbial. Very +light labour would enable the Tahitians to roll in riches, at least +according to their own estimate of the value of money and of the +luxuries it procures. The sugar-cane is indigenous to the island, and of +remarkably fine quality; cotton is of ready growth; but the fine +existing plantations "are owned and worked by whites, who would rather +pay a drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars a month, than +hire a sober native for his fish and _taro_." Wholly without energy, the +Tahitians saunter away their lives in a state of drowsy indolence, +aiming only at the avoidance of trouble, and the sensual enjoyment of +the moment. The race rapidly diminishes. "In 1777, Captain Cook +estimated the population of Tahiti at about two hundred thousand. By a +regular census taken some four or five years ago, it was found to be +only nine thousand!" Diseases of various kinds, entirely of European +introduction, and chiefly the result of drunkenness and debauchery, +account for this frightful decrease, which must result in the extinction +of the aborigines. + + "The palm-tree shall grow, + The coral shall spread, + But man shall cease." + +So runs an old Tahitian prophecy, soon to be realised. And if Pomaree, +who is under forty years of age, proves a long-lived sovereign, she may +chance to find herself a queen without subjects. Concerning her majesty +and her court, Typee is diffuse and diverting. This is an age of queens, +and although her dominions be of the smallest, her people few and +feeble, and her prerogative wofully clipped, she of Tahiti has made some +noise in the world, and attracted a fair share of public attention. At +one time, indeed, she was almost as much thought of and talked about as +her more civilised and puissant European sisters. In France, _La Reine +Pomaree_ was looked upon as a far more interesting personage than +Spanish Isabel or Portuguese Maria; and extraordinary notions were +formed as to the appearance, habits, and attributes of her dusky +majesty. Distance favoured delusion, and French imagination ran riot in +conjecture, until the reports of the valiant Thonars, and his squadron +of protection, dissipated the enchantment, and reduced Pomaree to her +true character, that of a lazy, dirty, licentious, Polynesian savage, +who walks about barefoot, drinks spirits, and hen-pecks her husband. Her +real name is Aimata, but she assumed, on ascending the throne, the royal +patronymic by which she is best known. There were Caesars in Rome, there +are Pomarees in Tahiti. The name was originally assumed by the great +Otoo, (to be read of in Captain Cook,) who united the whole island under +one crown. It descended to his son, and then to his grandson, who came +to the throne an infant, and, dying young, was succeeded by her present +majesty, Pomaree Vahinee I., the first female Pomaree. This lady has +been twice married. Her first husband was a king's son, but the union +was ill assorted, a divorce obtained, and she took up with one Tanee, a +chief from the neighbouring island of Imeco. She leads him a dog's life, +and he consoles himself by getting drunk. In that state, he now and then +violently breaks out, contemns the royal authority, thrashes his wife, +and smashes the crockery. Captain Bob gave Typee an account of a burst +of this sort, which occurred about seven years ago. Stimulated by the +seditious advice of his boon companions, and under the influence of an +unusually large dose of strong waters, the turbulent king-consort forgot +the respect due to his wife and sovereign, mounted his horse, and ran +full tilt at the royal cavalcade, out for their afternoon ride in the +park. One maid of honour was floored, the rest fled in terror, save and +except Pomaree, who stood her ground like a man, and apostrophised her +insubordinate spouse in the choicest Tahitian Billingsgate. For once her +eloquence failed of effect. Dragged from her horse, her personal charms +were deteriorated by a severe thumping on the face. This done, +Othello-Tanee attempted to strangle her, and was in a fair way to +succeed, when her loving subjects came to her rescue. So heinous a crime +could not be overlooked, and Tanee, was banished to his native island; +but after a short time he declared his penitence, made _amende +honorable_, and was restored to favour. He does not very often venture +to thwart the will of his royal wife, much less to raise his hand +against her sacred person, but submits with exemplary patience to her +caprices and abuse, and even to the manual admonitions she not +unfrequently bestows upon him. + +Upon the whole, life, at the Calabooza was not very disagreeable. The +prisoners, now only nominally so, had little to complain of, except +occasional short commons, arising not from unwillingness, but from +disability, on the part of the kind-hearted natives, to satisfy the +cravings of the hungry whalers, whose appetites were remarkable, +especially that of lanky Doctor Long Ghost. The doctor was a stickler +for quality as well as quantity; the memory of his claret and beccafico +days still clung to him, like the scent of the roses to Tom Moore's +broken gallipot: he was curious in condiments, and whilst devouring, +grumbled at the unseasoned viands of Tahiti. Cayenne and Harvey abounded +not in those latitudes, but pepper and salt were on board the Julia, and +the doctor prevailed on Rope Yarn to bring him a supply. "This he placed +in a small leather wallet, a monkey bag (so called by sailors) usually +worn as a purse about the neck. 'In my poor opinion,' said Long Ghost, +as he tucked the wallet out of sight, 'it behoves a stranger in Tahiti +to have his knife in readiness, and his castor slung.'" And thus +equipped, the doctor and his brethren in captivity rambled over the +verdant slopes and through the cool groves of Tahiti, bathed in the +mountain streams, and luxuriated in orange orchards, where "the trees +formed a dense shade, spreading overhead a dark, rustling vault, groined +with boughs, and studded here and there with the ripened spheres, like +gilded balls." Then they had plenty of society; native visitors flocked +to see them, and Doctor Johnson, a resident English physician, was +constant in his attendance, knowing that the Consul must pay his bill. +Three French priests also called upon them, one of whom proved to be no +Frenchman, but a portly, handsome, good-humoured Irishman, well known +and much disliked by the Polynesian protestant missionaries. A strong +attempt was made by Guy and Wilson to get the men to do duty. A schooner +was about to sail for Sydney, and they were threatened to be sent +thither for trial. They still refused to hand rope or break biscuit on +board the Julia. Long Ghost made some cutting remarks on the captain; +and the sailors, who had been taken down to the Consul's office for +examination, began to bully, and talked of carrying off Consul and +Captain to bear them company in the Calabooza. The same ill success +attended subsequent attempts, until Captain Guy was compelled to look +out for another crew, which he obtained with difficulty, and by a +considerable advance of hard dollars. And at last, "It was Sunday in +Tahiti, and a glorious morning, when Captain Bob, waddling into the +Calabooza, startled us by announcing, 'Ah, my boy--shippee you, +harree--maky sail!' in other words, the Julia was off," and had taken +her stores of old biscuit with her: so the next morning the inmates of +the Calabooza were without rations. The Consul would supply none, and it +was pretty evident that he rather desired the departure of the obstinate +seamen from that part of the island. The whole of his proceedings with +regard to them had served but to render him ridiculous, and he wished +them out of his neighbourhood; but the ex-prisoners found themselves +pretty comfortable, and preferred remaining. They were better off than +they had for some time been, for Jermin--not such a bad fellow, after +all--had sent them their chests ashore; and these, besides supplying +them with sundry necessaries, gave them immense importance in Tahitian +eyes. They had been kindly treated before, but now they were courted and +flattered, like younger sons in marching regiments, who suddenly step +into the family acres. The natives crowded round them, eager to swear +eternal friendship, according to an old Polynesian custom, once +universal in the islands, but that has fallen into considerable disuse, +except when something is to be gained by its observance. A gentleman of +the name of Kooloo fixed his affections upon Typee--or rather upon his +goods and chattels; for when he had wheedled him out of a regatta shirt, +and other small pieces of finery, he transferred his affections to a +newly-arrived sailor, whose chest was better lined, and who bestowed on +him a love-token, in the shape of a heavy pea-jacket. In this garment, +closely buttoned up, Kooloo took morning promenades, with the tropical +sun glaring down upon him. He frequently met his former friend, but +passed him with a careless "How d'ye do?" which presently dwindled into +a nod. "In one week's time," says poor Typee, "he gave me the cut +direct, and lounged by without even nodding. He must have taken me for +part of the landscape." + +After a while the contents of the chests, and even the chests +themselves--esteemed by the Tahitians most valuable pieces of +furniture--were given or bartered away, and, as the Consul still refused +them rations, the sailors knew not how to live. The natives helped them +as much as they could, but their larders were scantily furnished, and +they grew tired of feeding fifteen hungry idlers. So at last the latter +made a morning call upon the Consul, who, being unwilling to withdraw, +and equally so to press, charges which he knew would not be sustained, +refused to have any thing to say to them. Thereupon some of the party, +strong in principle and resolution, and seeing how grievous an annoyance +their presence was to their enemy, Wilson, swore to abide near him and +never to leave him. Others, less obstinate or more impatient of a +change, resolved to decamp from the Calabooza. The first to depart were +Typee and Long Ghost. They had received intelligence of a new plantation +in Imeco, recently formed by foreigners, who wanted white labourers, and +were expected at Papeetee to seek them. With these men they took service +under the names of Peter and Paul, at wages of fifteen silver dollars a +month; and, after an affecting separation from their shipmates--whose +respectable character may be judged of by the fact, that one of them +picked Long Ghost's pocket in the very act of embracing him,--they +sailed away for Imeco, and arrived without accident in the valley of +Martair, where the plantation was situate. The chapters recording their +stay here are amongst the very best in the book, full of rich, quiet +fun. Typee gives a capital description of his employers. They were two +in number, both "whole-souled fellows; one was a tall robust Yankee, +born in the backwoods of Maine, sallow, and with a long face; the other, +a short little Cockney who had first clapped his eyes on the Monument." +Zeke the Yankee, had christened his comrade "Shorty;" and Shorty looked +up to him with respect, and yielded to him in most things. Both showed +themselves well disposed towards their new labourers, whom they at once +discovered to be superior to their station. And they soon found their +society so agreeable, that they were willing to keep them to do little +more than nominal work. As to making them efficient farm servants, they +quickly gave up that idea. As a sailor, Typee had little fancy for +husbandry; and the doctor found his long back terribly in his way when +requested to dig potatoes and root up stumps, under a sun which, as +Shorty said, "was hot enough to melt the nose hoff a brass monkey." Long +Ghost very soon gave in; the extraction of a single tree-root settled +him; he pleaded illness, and retired to his hammock, but was +considerably vexed when he heard the Yankee propose a bullock hunting +expedition, in which, as a sick man, he could not decently take part. +This was only the prologue to his annoyances. Musquitoes, unknown in +Tahiti, abound in Imeeo. They were brought there, according to a native +tradition, by one Nathan Coleman, of Nantucket, who, in revenge for some +fancied grievance, towed a rotten water-cask ashore, and left it in a +neglected _taro_ patch, where the ground was moist and warm. Musquitoes +were the result. "When tormented by them, I found much relief in +coupling the word Coleman with another of one syllable, and pronouncing +them together energetically." The musquito chapter is very amusing, +showing the various comical and ingenious manoeuvres of the friends to +avoid their tormentors, and obtain a night's sleep. At last they entered +a fishing canoe, paddled some distance from shore, and dropped the +native anchor, a stone secured to a rope. They were awakened in the +morning by the motion of their boat. Zeke was wading in the shallow +water, and towing them from a reef towards which they had drifted. "The +water-sprites had rolled our stone out of its noose, and we had floated +away." This was a narrow escape, but nevertheless they stuck to their +floating bedstead as the only possible sleeping place. A day's +successful hunting, followed by a famous supper and jollification under +a banian-tree, put the doctor in good humour, and he made himself vastly +agreeable. The natives beheld his waggish pranks with infinite +admiration, and Zeke looked upon him with particular favour; so much so, +that when upon the following morning an order came from a ship at +Papeetee, for a supply of potatoes, he almost hesitated to tell funny +Peter to assist in digging them up. But the emergency pressed, and the +work must be done. So Peter and Paul were set to unearth the vegetables. +This was no very cruel task, for "the rich tawny soil seemed specially +adapted to the crop; the great yellow murphies rolling out of the hills +like eggs from a nest." But when they were dug up, they had to be +carried to the beach; and to this part of the business the lazy +adventurers had a special dislike, although Zeke kindly provided them, +to lighten their toil, with what he called the barrel machine--a sort of +rural sedan, in which the servants carried their loads with comparative +ease, whilst their employers sweated under shouldered hampers. But no +alleviation could reconcile the sailor and the physician to this novel +and unpleasant labour, and the potato-digging was the last piece of +work, deserving the name, that either of them did. A few days afterwards +they gave their masters warning, greatly to the vexation of Zeke, +although he received the notice--with true Yankee imperturbability. He +proposed that Long Ghost, who, after the hunt, had shown, considerable +culinary skill, should assume the office of cook, and that Paul-Typee +should only work when it suited him, which would not have been very +often. The offer was friendly and favourable, but it was refused. A +hospitable invitation to remain as guests as long as was convenient to +them, was likewise rejected, and, bent upon a ramble, the restless +adventurers left the vale of Martair. Even greater inducements would +probably have been insufficient to keep them there. They had been so +long on the rove, that change of scene had become essential to their +happiness. The doctor, especially, was anxious to be off to Tamai, an +inland village on the borders of a lake, where the fruits were the +finest, and the women the most beautiful and unsophisticated in all the +Society Islands. Epicurean Long Ghost had set his mind upon visiting +this terrestrial paradise, and thither his steady chum willingly +accompanied him. It was a day's journey on foot, allowing time for +dinner and siesta; and the path lay through wood and ravine, unpeopled +save by wild cattle. About noon they reached the heart of the island, +thus pleasantly described. "It was a green, cool hollow among the +mountains, into which we at last descended with a bound. The place was +gushing with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn trees, +on whose mossy boles the moisture stood in beads." There is something +delightfully hydropathic in these lines; they cool one like a +shower-bath. He is a prime fellow, this common sailor Melville, at such +scraps of description, terse and true, placing the scene before us in +ten words. In long yarns he indulges not, but of such happy touches as +the above, we could quote a score. We have not room, either for them, +or for an account of the valley of Tamai, its hospitable inhabitants, +and its heathenish dances, performed in secret, and in dread of the +missionaries, by whom such saturnalia are forbidden. The place was +altogether so pleasant, that the doctor and his friend entertained +serious thoughts of settling there, or at least of making a long stay, +when one morning they were put to flight by the arrival of strangers, +said to be missionaries, with whom, vagrants as they were, they had no +wish to fall in. So they returned to their friend Zeke, nursing new and +ambitious projects. They had no intention of remaining with the +good-hearted Yankee, but merely paid him a flying visit, and that with +an interested motive. What they wanted of him was this. Although feeling +themselves gentlemen every inch, they were not always able to convince +the world of their respectability. So they resolved to have a passport, +and pitched upon Zeke to manufacture it, he being well known and much +respected in Imeeo. Zeke was gratified by the compliment, and set to +work with a rooster's quill, and a piece of dirty paper. "Evidently he +was not accustomed to composition; for his literary throes were so +violent, that the doctor suggested that some sort of a Caesarian +operation might be necessary. The precious paper was at last finished; +and a great curiosity it was. We were much diverted with his reasons for +not dating it. 'In this here damned climate,' he observed, 'a feller +can't keep the run of the months, no how; 'cause there's no seasons, no +summer and winter to go by. One's etarnally thinking it's always July, +it's so pesky hot.' A passport provided, we cast about for some means of +getting to Taloo." + +The decline of the Tahitian monarchy--the degradation of the regal house +of Pomaree, is painful to contemplate. The queen still wears a crown--a +tinsel one, received as a present from her sister-sovereign of +England,--she has also a court and a palace, such as they are; but her +power is little more than nominal, her exchequer seldom otherwise than +empty. Typee draws a touching contrast between times past and present. +"'I'm a greater man than King George,' said the incorrigible young Otoo, +to the first missionaries; 'he rides on a horse and I on a man.' Such +was the case. He travelled post through his dominions on the shoulders +of his subjects, and relays of immortal beings were provided in all the +valleys. But, alas! how times have changed! how transient human +greatness! Some years since, Pomaree Vahinee I., granddaughter of the +proud Otoo, went into the laundry business, publicly soliciting, by her +agents, the washing of the linen belonging to officers of ships touching +in her harbours." Into the court of this washerwoman-queen, Typee and +Long Ghost were exceedingly anxious to penetrate. Vague ideas of favour +and preferment haunted their brains. During their Polynesian cruise, +they had seen many instances of rapid advancement; vagabond foreigners, +of all nations, domesticated in the families of chiefs and kings, and +sometimes married to their daughters and sharing their power. At one of +the Tonga islands, a scamp of a Welshman officiated as cupbearer to the +king of the cannibals. The monarch of the Sandwich islands has three +foreigners about his court--a Negro to beat the drum, a wooden-legged +Portuguese to play the fiddle, and Mordecai, a juggler, to amuse his +majesty with cups and balls and sleight of hand. On the Marquesan island +of Hivarhoo, they had found an English sailor who had attained to the +highest dignity in the country. He had deserted from a merchant ship, +and at once set up, on his own hook, as an independent sovereign, +without dominions, but by disposition most belligerent. A musket and a +store of cartridges were his whole possessions; but in a land where war +was rife, carried on with the primitive weapons of spear and javelin, +they were sufficiently important to make a native prince covet his +alliance. His first battle was a decisive victory, a perfect Waterloo, +and he became the Wellington of Hivarhoo, receiving, as reward for his +distinguished services, the hand of a princess, and a splendid dowry of +hogs, mats, and other produce. To conform to the prejudices of his new +family, he allowed himself to be tattooed, tabooed, and otherwise +paganized, becoming as big a savage as any in the island. A blue shark +adorned his forehead; a broad bar, of the same colour, traversed his +face. The tabooing was a less ornamental but more decidedly useful +formality, for by it his person was declared sacred and inviolable. +Typee and his medical friend had a strong prejudice against cerulean +sharks and the like embellishments; but if these could be dispensed +with, they felt no disinclination to form part of Pomaree's household. +They had not quite made up their minds what office would best suit them, +but their circumstances were unprosperous, and they resolved not to be +particular. They understood that the queen was mustering around her all +the foreigners she could recruit, to make head against the French. She +was then at Taloo, a village on the coast of Imeeo, and thither the two +adventurers betook themselves, hoping to be at once elevated to +important posts at court; but quite resigned, in case of disappointment, +to work as day-labourers in a sugar-plantation, or go to sea in a +whaler, then in the harbour for wood and water. Disgusted with their +desultory, hand-to-mouth existence, they yearned after respectability +and a prime-ministership. To their sanguine anticipations, both of these +seemed easy of attainment. Long Ghost, indeed, who, amongst his various +accomplishments, was a very Orpheus upon the violin, insisted strongly +upon the probability of his becoming a Tahitian Rizzio. But a necessary +preliminary to the realisation of these day-dreams, was a presentation +at court, and that was difficult to obtain. Once before Queen Pomaree, +they doubted not but she, with Napoleonic sagacity, would discern their +merits, and forthwith make Typee her admiral, and Long Ghost +inspector-general of hospitals. But they lacked an introduction. The +proper course, according to the practice of travelling nobodies, +desirous of intruding their plebeianism into a foreign court, would have +been to apply to their ambassadors. Unfortunately Deputy-Consul Wilson, +the only person at hand of a diplomatic character, was by no means +disposed to act as master of the ceremonies to the insurgents of the +Julia. And their costume, it must be confessed, scarcely qualified them +to appear at levee or drawing-room. A short time previously, their +ragged and variegated garb had given them much the look of a brace of +Polynesian Robert Macaires. Typee had made himself a new frock out of +two old ones, a blue and a red, the irregular mingling of the colours +producing a pleasing parrot-like effect; a tattered shirt of printed +calico was twisted round his head, turban-fashion, the sleeves dangling +behind, and bullock's-hide sandals protected his feet. The doctor was +still more fantastical in his attire. He sported a _roora_, a garment +similar to the South American poncho, a sort of mantle or blanket, with +a hole in the centre, through which the head passes. This simple article +of apparel, which in the doctor's case was of coarse brown tappa, fell +in folds around his angular carcass, and in conjunction with a +broad-brimmed hat of Panama grass, gave him the aspect of a decayed +grandee. Thus clad, the two friends arrived in the neighbourhood of the +royal residence, and there were fortunate enough to fall in with Mrs +Po-Po, a benevolent Tahitian matron, who provided them with clean frocks +and trousers, such as sailors wear, and in all respects was as good as a +mother to them. Her husband, Jeremiah Po-Po, a man of substance and +consideration, made them welcome in his house, fed and fostered them, +without hope of fee or recompense. A little of this generous hospitality +was owing to the hypocrisy of that villain, Long Ghost, who, finding his +entertainers devoutly disposed, muttered a "Grace before Meat" over the +succulent little porkers, baked _a la facon de Barbarie_ in the ground, +upon which their kind-hearted Amphitrion regaled them. But neither clean +canvass, nor simulated piety, sufficed to draw upon the ambitious +schemers the favourable notice of Queen Pomaree. Accustomed to sailors, +she held them cheap. A uniform, though but the moth-eaten undress of a +militia ensign, would have been a powerful auxiliary to their projects +of aggrandisement. Like some others of her sex, Pomaree loves a +soldier's coat, and maintained in more prosperous days a formidable +regiment of body-guards, in pasteboard shakos, and without breeches. + +To go to court, however, Typee and his comrade were fully resolved; and +they were not very scrupulous as to the manner of their introduction. +They made up to a Marquesan gentleman of herculean proportions, whose +office it was to take the princes of the blood an airing in his arms. +Typee, who spoke his language, and had been at his native village, soon +ingratiated himself with Marbonna, who introduced them to one of the +queen's chamberlains. Bribery and corruption now came into play: a plug +of tobacco, proved an excellent passport to within the royal precincts, +but then Marbonna was suddenly called away, and the intruders found +themselves abandoned to their fate amongst the ladies of the court, +amiable and affable damsels, whom a little "soft sawder" induced to +conduct them into the queen's own drawing room. Here were collected +numerous costly articles of European manufacture, sent as presents to +Pomaree. Writing-desks, cut glass and beautiful china, valuable +engravings, and gilt candelabras, arms and instruments of all kinds, lay +scratched and broken, musty and rusting amongst greasy calabashes, old +matting, paddles, fish-spears, and rubbish of all kinds. It was +supper-time; and presently the queen came out of her private boudoir, +attired in a blue silk gown and rich shawls, but without shoes or +stockings. She lay down upon a mat, and fed herself with her fingers. +Presumptuous Long Ghost, unabashed before royalty, was for immediately +introducing himself and friend; but the attendants opposed this forward +proceeding, and, in doing so, made such a fuss that the queen looked up +from her calabash of fish, perceived the strangers, and ordered them +out. Such was the first and last interview between Typee the mariner and +Pomaree the queen. + +"Disappointed in going to court, we determined upon going to sea." The +Leviathan, an American whaler, lay in harbour, and Typee shipped on +board her. Long Ghost would have done the same, but the Yankee captain +disliked the cut of his jib, swore he was a "Sidney bird," and would +have nought to say to him. So Typee divided his advance of wages with +the medical spectre--drank with him a parting bottle of wine, +surreptitiously purchased from a pilfering member of Pomaree's +household--and sailed on a whaling cruise to the coast of Japan. We look +forward with confidence and interest to an account of what there befel +him. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[C] _Omoo; A Narrative of Adventures in the South Seas._ By HERMAN +MELVILLE. London: 1847. + + + + +ON THE NUTRITIVE QUALITIES OF THE BREAD NOW IN USE. + +BY PROFESSOR JOHNSTON. + + +A few plain words on this subject may not be unacceptable to the popular +reader at the present time. + +We are fond of what is agreeable to the eye as well as pleasant to the +taste, and therefore we love to have our bread made of the whitest and +finest of the wheat. Attaching superior excellence to what thus pleases +the eye, we call the good Scotch bannock an inferior food, and the +wholesome black bread of the north of Europe a disgusting article of +diet. When our experience and knowledge are local and confined, our +opinions necessarily partake of a similar character. + +In regard to the different qualities of wheaten flour, our judgments are +not so severe. All things which pertain to this aristocratic grain--this +staff of English life--like the liveries and horses of a great man--are +treated with a certain degree of respect. Still, they are only the +appendages of the noble seed, and the more thoroughly they are got rid +of, the better the kernel is supposed to become. + +In many of our old-fashioned families, indeed, the practice still +lingers of baking bread from the whole meal of wheat for common use in +the kitchen or hall, and for occasional consumption on the master's +table. An enthusiastic physician also now and then rouses himself, and +does battle with the national organs of taste on behalf of the darker +bread, and the browner flour--and dyspeptic old gentlemen or mammas who +have over-pampered their sickly darlings, listen to his fervid warnings, +and the star of the brown loaf is for a month or two in the ascendant. + +But gradually the warning sound is lost to the alarmed ear, and the +pulses of the commoved air waft it on to mingle with the thousand other +long-quenched voices which people the distant realms of space, and form +together that unutterable harmony which, by consent of the poets, is +named the music of the spheres. + +There are times, however, when good men, though aware of this passing +tendency of human efforts, and of the thankless impotency of a struggle +against the public voice--that _vox populi_ which wise men (so-called) +have pronounced to be also _vox Dei_--will nevertheless return to what +they believe to be a useful though unvalued labour. The present is one +in which any thing which can be said in favour of the less-valued parts +of our imperial grain, will be more readily listened to than at any +other period in the life-time of the existing generation; and being +listened to, may be productive of the greatest national good. + +I propose, therefore, to show, in an intelligible manner, that whole +meal flour is really more nourishing, as well as more wholesome, than +fine white flour as food for man. + +The solid parts of the human body consist, principally, of three several +portions: the fat, the muscle, and the bone. These three substances are +liable to constant waste in the living body, and therefore must be +constantly renewed from the food that we eat. The vegetable food we +consume contains these three substances almost ready formed. The plant +is the brick-maker. The animal voluntarily introduces these bricks into +its stomach, and then involuntarily--through the operation of the +mysterious machinery within--picks out these bricks, transports them to +the different parts of the body, and builds them into their appropriate +places. As the miller at his mill throws into the hopper the unground +grain, and forthwith, by the involuntary movements of the machinery, +receives in his several sacks the fine flour, the seconds, the +middlings, the pollard, and the bran; so in the human body, by a still +more refined separation, the fat is extracted and deposited here, the +muscular matter there, and the bony material in a third locality, where +it can not only be stored up, but where its presence is actually at the +moment necessary. + +Again, the fluid parts of the body contain the same substances in a +liquid form, on their way to or from the several parts of the body in +which they are required. They include also a portion of salt or saline +matter which is dissolved in them, as we dissolve common salt in our +soup, or Epsom salts in the pleasant draughts with which our doctors +delight to vex us. This saline matter is also obtained from the food. + +Now, it is self-evident, that that food must be the most nourishing +which supplies all these ingredients of the body most abundantly on the +whole, or in proportions most suited to the actual wants of the +individual animal to which it is given. + +How stands the question, then, in regard to this point between the brown +bread and the white--the fine flour, and the whole meal of wheat? + +The grain of wheat consists of two parts, with which the miller is +familiar--the inner grain and the skin that covers it. The inner grain +gives the pure wheat flour; the skin, when separated, forms the bran. +The miller cannot entirely peel off the skin from his grain, and thus +some of it is unavoidably ground up with his flour. By sifting, he +separates it more or less completely: his seconds, middlings, &c., owing +their colour to the proportion of brown bran that has passed through the +sieve along with the flour. The whole meal, as it is called, of which +the so-named brown _household bread_ is made, consists of the entire +grain ground up together--used as it comes from the mill-stones +unsifted, and therefore containing all the bran. + +The first white flour, therefore, may be said to contain no bran, while +the whole meal contains all that grew naturally upon the grain. + +What is the composition of these two portions of the seed? How much do +they respectively contain of the several constituents of the animal +body? How much of each is contained also in the whole grain? + +1. _The fat._ Of this ingredient a thousand pounds of the + + Whole grain contain 28 lbs. + Fine Flour, " 20 " + Bran, " 60 " + +So that the bran is much richer in fat than the interior part of the +grain, and the whole grain ground together (whole meal) richer than the +finer part of the flour in the proportion of nearly one half. + +2. _The muscular matter._ I have had no opportunity as yet of +ascertaining the relative proportions of this ingredient in the bran and +fine flour of the same sample of grain. Numerous experiments, however, +have been made in my laboratory, to determine these proportions in the +fine flour and whole seed of several varieties of grain. The general +result of these is, that the whole grain uniformly contains a larger +quantity, weight for weight, than the fine flour extracted from it does. +The particular results in the case of wheat and Indian corn were as +follows:--A thousand pounds of the whole grain and of the fine flour +contained of muscular matter respectively,-- + + _Whole grain._ _Fine Flour._ +Wheat, 156 lbs. 130 lbs. +Indian Corn, 140 110 + +Of the material out of which the animal muscle is to be formed, the +whole meal or grain of wheat contains one-fifth more than the finest +flour does. For maintaining muscular strength, therefore, it must be +more valuable in an equal proportion. + +3. _Bone material and Saline matter._--Of these mineral constituents, as +they may be called, of the animal body, a thousand pounds of bran, whole +meal and fine flour, contain respectively,-- + + Bran, 700 lbs. + Whole meal, 170 " + Fine flour, 60 " + +So that in regard to this important part of our food, necessary to all +living animals, but especially to the young who are growing, and to the +mother who is giving milk--the whole meal is three times more nourishing +than the fine flour. + +Our case is now made out. Weight for weight, the whole grain or meal is +more rich in all these three essential elements of a nutritive food, +than the fine flour of wheat. By those whose only desire is to sustain +their health and strength by the food they eat, ought not the whole meal +to be preferred? To children who are rapidly growing, the browner the +bread they eat, the more abundant the supply of the materials from which +their increasing bones and muscles are to be produced. To the +milk-giving mother, the same food, and for a similar reason, is the most +appropriate. + +A glance at their mutual relations in regard to the three substances, +presented in one view, will show this more clearly. A thousand pounds of +each contain of the three several ingredients the following proportions. + + Whole meal. Fine flour. +Muscular matter, 156 lbs. 130 lbs. +Bone material, 170 " 60 " +Fat, 28 " 20 " + +Total in each, 354 210 + +Taking the three ingredients, therefore, together, the whole meal is +one-half more valuable for fulfilling all the purposes of nutrition than +the fine flour--and especially it is so in regard to the feeding of the +young, the pregnant, and those who undergo much bodily fatigue. + +It will not be denied that it is for a wise purpose that the Deity has +so intimately associated, in the grain, the several substances which are +necessary for the complete nutrition of animal bodies. The above +considerations show how unwise we are in attempting to undo this natural +collocation of materials. To please the eye and the palate, we sift out +a less generally nutritive food,--and, to make up for what we have +removed, experience teaches us to have recourse to animal food of +various descriptions. + +It is interesting to remark, even in apparently trivial things, how all +nature is full of compensating processes. We give our servants household +bread, while we live on the finest of the wheat ourselves. The mistress +eats that which pleases the eye more, the maid what sustains and +nourishes the body better. + +But the whole meal is more wholesome, as well as more nutritive. It is +on account of its superior wholesomeness that those who are experienced +in medicine usually recommend it to our attention. Experience in the +laws of digestion brings us back to the simple admixture found in the +natural seed. It is not an accidental thing that the proportions in +which the ingredients of a truly sustaining food take their places in +the seeds on which we live, should be best fitted at once to promote the +health of the sedentary scholar, and to reinvigorate the strength of the +active man when exhausted by bodily labour. + +Some may say that the preceding observations are merely theoretical; and +may demand the support of actual trial, before they will concede that +the selection of the most nourishing and wholesome diet is hereafter to +be regulated by the results of chemical analysis. The demand is +reasonable in itself, and the so-called deductions of theory are +entitled only to the rank of probable conjectures, till they have been +tested by exact and repeated trials. + +But such in this case have been made; and our theoretical considerations +come in only to confirm the results of previous experiments--to explain +why these results should have been obtained, and to extend and enforce +the practical lessons which the results themselves appeared to +inculcate. + +Thus, from the experiments of Majendie and others, it was known that +animals which in a few weeks died if fed only upon fine flour, lived +long upon whole meal bread. The reason appears from our analytical +investigations. The whole meal contains in large quantity the three +forms of matter by which the several parts of the body are sustained, or +successively renewed. We may feed a man long upon bread and water only, +but unless we wish to kill him also, we must have the apparent cruelty +to restrict him to the coarser kinds of bread. The charity which should +supply him with fine white loaves instead, would in effect kill him by a +lingering starvation. + +Again, the pork-grower who buys bran from the miller, wonders at the +remarkable feeding and fattening effect which this apparently woody and +useless material has upon his animals. The surprise ceases, however, +and the practice is encouraged, and extended to other creatures, when +the researches of the laboratory explain to him what the food itself +contains, and what his growing animal requires. + +Economy as well as comfort follow from an exact acquaintance with the +wants of our bodies in their several conditions, and with the +composition of the various articles of diet which are at our command. In +the present condition of the country, this economy has become a vital +question. It is a kind of Christian duty in every one to practise it as +far as his means and his knowledge enable him. + +Perhaps the amount of the economy which would follow the use of whole +meal instead of fine flour, may not strike every one who reads the above +observations. The saving arises from two sources. + +First, The amount of husk, separated by the miller from the wheat which +he grinds, and which is not sold for human use, varies very much. I +think we do not over-estimate it, when we consider it as forming +one-eighth of the whole. On this supposition, eight pounds of wheat +yield seven of flour consumed by man, and one of pollard and bran which +are given to animals--chiefly to poultry and pigs. If the whole meal be +used, however, eight pounds of flour will be obtained, or eight people +will be fed by the same weight of grain which only fed seven before. + +Again, we have seen that the whole meal is more nutritious--so that this +coarser flour will go farther than an equal weight of the fine. The +numbers at which we arrived, from the results of analysis, show that, +taking all the three sustaining elements of the food into consideration, +the coarse is one-half more nutritive than the fine. Leaving a wide +margin for the influence of circumstances, let us suppose it only +one-eighth more nutritive, and we shall have now nine people nourished +equally by the same weight of grain, which, when eaten as fine flour, +would support only seven. _The wheat of the country_, in other words, +_would in this form go one-fourth farther than at present_. + +But some one may remark, if all this good is to come from the mere use +of the bran, why not recommend it to be withheld from the pigs, and +consume it by man in some way alone? This would involve no change in the +practice of our millers, and little in the habits and bread of the great +mass of the population. + +But such a course, if possible, would not bring us to the economical end +we wish to attain. Suppose it could be made palatable and eaten by man, +little comparative saving would be effected. + +First, because, when eaten alone, the fine flour will not go so far as +when mixed with a certain proportion of bran: that is to say,--a given +weight of fine flour will produce an increased nutritive effect when +mixed with the bran: greater than is due to the constituents of the bran +taken alone. The mixture of the two in reality increases the virtues of +both. Again, if eaten alone, bran would prove too difficult, and +therefore slow of digestion in most stomachs. Much would thus pass, +unexhausted of its nutritive matter, through the alimentary canal, as +whole oats often do through that of horses, and thus a considerable +waste would ensue. + +And further, supposing all to be dissolved in the stomach, there would +still, of necessity, be a waste of material, since the bran actually +contains a larger proportion of bone material and saline matter compared +with its other ingredients, than the body, in its natural healthy state, +can make use of. All this excess must, therefore, be rejected by the +body, and, as nutritive matter, for the time be wasted. + +Lastly, it is doubtful if bran alone contains enough of starch, or of +any substitute for it, to meet the other demands of the human system. I +have not spoken of the use of the starch of the grain in the preceding +observations, because, as both whole meal and fine flour contain a +sufficient quantity of it to supply the wants of the living animal, it +was unnecessary to the main object of this paper. But with bran the case +is different. It is doubtful if the purposes of the starch could be +fully, and with sufficient speed, fulfilled by the ingredients which, in +the bran, take the place of starch in the flour. The cellular fibre or +woody matter, of which it contains a considerable proportion, is too +slowly soluble in the stomachs of ordinary men. While, therefore, much +of it would pass through the body undigested, it would require to be +eaten in far larger proportions than its composition indicates, if the +body was to be supported, and thus a further waste would be incurred. + +On the whole, therefore, we come back to the whole meal, as the most +economical as well as the most nutritive and wholesome form in which the +grain of wheat can be consumed. The Deity has done far better for us, by +the natural mixtures to be found in the whole seed, than we can do for +ourselves. The materials, both in form and in proportion, are adjusted +in each seed, as wheat, in a way more suitable to us than any which, +with our present knowledge, we appear able to devise. + +A word to our Scottish readers, before we conclude. We do not recommend +to you even the whole meal of wheat as a substitute for your oatmeal or +your oaten-cake. The oat is more nutritive even than the whole grain of +wheat, taken weight for weight. For the growing boy, for the +hard-working man, and for the portly matron, oatmeal contains the +materials of the most hearty nourishment. This it owes in part to its +peculiar chemical composition, and in part to its being, as it is used +in Scotland, a kind of whole meal. The finely sifted oatmeal of +Yorkshire and Lancashire is not so agreeable to a Scottish taste, and, I +believe, is not so nutritious, as the rounder and coarser meal of the +more northern counties. + +While, therefore, the whole meal of wheat is superior to the fine flour, +in economy, in nutritive power, and in wholesomeness, and therefore +should be preferred by those who _must_ live upon wheat,--in all these +respects the oat has still the advantage, and therefore ought +religiously to be adhered to. You owe it to the experience of your +forefathers, for a thousand years, not to forsake it. + + _Lurham, 19th May, 1847._ + + + + +INDEX TO VOL. LXI. + + +Abdul Medjid, the Sultan, 693. + +Adalia, sketches of, 737. + +Addington, Henry, see _Sidmouth_. + +Addington, Hiley, 475. + +Adelaide, Madame, 2, 7, 8, 12. + +Adventures of the Connaught Rangers, review of, 457. + +Aidan, Bishop, 84. + +Albemarle, Lord, 201. + +Albert, Madame, 186. + +Ambrosio, General, 174. + +America, origin of the struggle with, 207. + +America, how they manage matters in, 492. + +America, North, 653. + +Ancient and Modern Ballad Poetry, 622. + +Anglo-Saxons, Lappenberg's History of the, reviewed, 79. + +Angouleme, the Duc d', 5, 6. + +Appert, B. Dix ans a la Cour du Roi Louis Philippe, review of, 1. + +Aquilius, Letter from, to Eusebius, 374 + --second, 501 + --third, 695. + +Arabs in Batavia, the, 321. + +Archangel, New, settlement of, 661. + +Armenians of Smyrna, the, 238. + +Arnal, a French actor, 185. + +Arnault, M., 15. + +Arthur, King, 81. + +Assessed Taxes, inequalities of, 248. + +Aumale, Duc d', 17. + + +Badajos, capture of, 468. + +Ballad Poetry, ancient and modern, 622. + +Balzac, M. de, 16, works of, 591. + +Banditti of Spain, the, 356. + +Batavia, city of, 320. + +Baths of Mont Dor, the, 448 + --the company at, 451 + --the forest, 454. + +Belgrade, siege and battle of, 36. + +Belisarius,--was he blind? 606. + +Benedict Biscop, 87. + +Bernard, Charles de, notices of the works of, 589. + +Berri, Duchesse de, 530. + +Blackwall, ode to, 59. + +Blucher, sketches of, 76. + +Bolingbroke, Lord, 204. + +Bonabat, village of, 241. + +Bouffe, Marie, 189. + +Boufflers, Marshal, 35, 36. + +Boujah, village of, 241. + +Bread, on the nutritive qualities of, by Professor Johnston, 768. + +Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, sonnets by: + --Life, 555 + --Love, _ib._ + --Heaven and Earth, 556 + --The Prospect, _ib._ + --Two Sketches, 683 + --The Mountaineer and the Poet, 684 + --the Poet, _ib._ + +Brunet, an actor, 187. + +Bruhl, Count, 209. + +Bunzelwitz, camp and battle of, 43. + +Buonaparte, Joseph, as King of Naples, 168. + +Burgos, the retreat from, 471. + +Burke, notices of, 483, 484, 487. + +Busaco, battle of, 460. + + +Canning, Peel's conduct towards, 97. + +California, sketches of, 662. + +Caravan Bridge of Smyrna, the, 239. + +Carbonari of Naples, the, 173. + +Cardinal's voyage, the, 430. + +Carlyle's Cromwell, review of, 392. + +Caroline, Queen of Naples, 164, 167. + +Catherine of Russia, intimacy of, with Voltaire, 537. + +Catholic question, Peel's conduct on the, 97. + +Catullus, translations from, No. I., 374 + --No. II., 501 + --No. III., 695. + +Cave of the Regicides, the, and how three of them fared in New +England, 333. + +Championet, General, capture of Naples by, 163. + +Chapelle, an actor, 185. + +Charles X., accession of, 6. + +Charles de Bernard, works of, 589. + +Chateauroux, the Duchess of, 206, 530. + +Chatham, Lord, 474, 475. + +Cheri, Rose, 191. + +Chesterfield, Lord, character of, by Walpole, 198. + +Chinese in Batavia, the, 321. + +Church rate, inequality of the, 250. + +Ciudad Rodrigo, capture of, 467. + +Claqueurs of Paris, the, 183. + +Collier's book of Roxburghe ballads, review of, 622. + +Connaught Rangers, sketches of the, 457. + +Constantine Kanaris, epitaph of, 644. + +Constantinople, and the declining state of the Ottoman empire, 685. + +Corn law, Peel's conduct regarding the, 99. + +Court of Louis Philippe, sketches of the, 1. + +Cromwell, Carlyle's life of, reviewed, 392. + +Cunnersdorf, battle of, 42. + +Cunningham's poems and songs, review of, 622. + + +Dardanelles, the, 686. + +Daun, Marshal, 40, 42. + +Dejazet the actress, 189. + +Delta, Scottish Melodies by: + --Eric's Dirge, 91 + --The Stormy Sea, _ib._ + --The Maid of Ulva, 645 + --Lament for Macrimmon, _ib._ + +Direct Taxation, on, 243 + --true principles of, 258. + +Divining Rod, the, 368. + +Dixwell, John, the Regicide, 338. + +Doche, Madame, 187. + +Doddington, Bubb, 201, 202, 210. + +Dore, a French robber, sketches of, 4. + +Dubois, the Abbe, 530. + +Duckworth, Sir John, forcing of the Dardanelles by, 686. + +Dumas, General, 168. + +Dumas, M. de, and his works, 16, 590, 591. + +Durham, Lord, 15, 16. + +Dutch, cruelties of the, in Java, 327. + + +Early Taken, the, 230. + +Egmont, Lord, 197. + +Ekaterineburg, town of, 671. + +England, uniform triumphs of, over France, 48. + +Epigrams, 361. + +Epitaphs, 57, 61. + +Epitaph of Constantine Kanaris, the, 644. + +Eric's dirge, by Delta, 91. + +Erith, village of, 423. + +Erskine, Lord, 488. + +Eugene, Marlborough, Frederick, Napoleon, and Wellington, 34. + +Eusebius, letters to--Horae Catullianae, 374, 501, 695. + + +Famine, lessons from the, 515. + +Ferdinand, king of Naples, 163, 164, 167. + +Ferguson of Pitfour, anecdotes of, 488. + +Fighting Eighty-eighth, the, 457. + +Flour, on the various kinds of, and their nutritive qualities, 768. + +Fontenoy, battle of, 535. + +Ford's gatherings from Spain, review of, 350. + +Fossa del Maritimo, prison of, 167. + +Fox, anecdotes of, 488. + +France, the modern court of, 1. + +France, uniform triumphs of England over, 48. + +France, Walpole's picture of, 206. + +France, letter on, 547. + +Frederick the Great, sketch of the career of, and comparison of him +with Marlborough and others, 37 + --his intimacy with Voltaire, 537. + +Frederick, prince of Wales, death of, and his character, 200. + +Free trade in connexion with taxation, 243. + +French players and playhouses, 177. + +Fuentes d' Onore, battle of, 462. + + +Galata, sketches of, 688. + +General Mack: a Christmas carol, 92. + +George II., Walpole's reign of, reviewed, 194. + +George III., anecdotes of, 490. + +Georges, characteristics of the reigns of the, 211. + +Ghosts, letters on, 440, 541. + +Gneisenau, General, 77. + +Goffe the Regicide, 333. + +Gold district of Siberia, the, 671. + +Grand Opera at Paris, the, 180, 182. + +Grattan's Adventures of the Connaught Rangers, review of, 457. + +Greeks of Adalia, the, 750. + +Grey, Lord, first appearance of, 479. + +Guilleminot, Count, 6. + +Gutch's Robin Hood, review of, 622. + +Gymnase Dramatique at Paris, the, 190. + + +Hastings, Warren, trial of, 478, 487. + +Heaven and Earth, a Sonnet, 556. + +Heptarchy, the, 79. + +Hervey's Theatres of Paris, review of, 177. + +Highway Rates, inequalities of, 249. + +Hohenfriedberg, battle of, 39. + +Hohenkirchen, battle of, 42. + +Horae Catullianae, No. I., 374 + --No. II., 501 + --No. III., 695. + +Horn, Count de, execution of, 534. + +How they manage matters in the model republic, 492. + +How to build a house and live in it,--No. III., 727. + +Hughes' Overland Journey to Lisbon, review of, 350. + +Hymn of King Olaf the Saint, the, altered from the Icelandic, 682. + + +Imeeo, residence on island of, 763. + +Income Tax, inequalities of the, 253. + +Indian Life, anecdotes of, 658, 659, 660. + +Indirect Taxes, probable abandonment of, in Great Britain, 244, 245. + +Ireland, state of, under George II., 205 + --necessity of Poor Law for, 247 + --unjust exemption from taxation enjoyed by, 256. + +Isle of Dogs, the, 50 + --tradition regarding, 52. + +Italian History, modern, 162. + + +Java, sketches of, 318. + +Joinville, Prince de, 17. + +Johnston, Professor, on the nutritive qualities of the Bread now +in use, 768. + +Jones, Neville, 205. + +Jutland 130 years since, from the Danish + --I., the Deer Rider, 286 + --II., Ansbjerg, 289 + --III., the Nisse, 292 + --IV., the Elopement, 297 + --V., the Horse Garden, 303. + + +Kawashes of Turkey, the, 235. + +Khan of Magnesia, the, 309. + +Khans of Turkey, the, 236. + +Kiachta, town of, 670. + +Kolin, battle of, 41. + +Krasnoyayk, town of, 671. + + +Lafayette, sketches of, 5. + +Lament for Macrimmon, by Delta, 645. + +Land, injustice of the freedom of, from legacy duty, 246. + +Land Tax, injustice of the, 248. + +Landsheck, battle of, 42. + +Lappenberg's Anglo-Saxons, review of, 79. + +Latest from the Peninsula, 350. + +Law of Lauriston, 533, 534. + +Lays and Legends of the Thames, No. II., 49 + --the Isle of Dogs, 50 + --the Song of the Mail Coachman, 51 + --the Presentation, 55 + --Epitaphs, 57, 61 + --Ode to Blackwall, 59 + --the Poet's Auction, 62 + --No. III., 423 + --the Vision, 424 + --the Arsenal, 426 + --True Love, 428 + --the Cardinals' voyage, 430. + +Legacy duty, inequality of the, 246. + +Lemaitre, the Marquis, 166. + +Lemaitre, Frederick, 188. + +Lena, the river, 669. + +Lessons from the Famine, 515. + +Letters on the Truths contained in Popular Superstitions, + --No. I., the Divining Rod, 368 + --II., Vampyrism, 432 + --III., Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, 440 + --IV., Real Ghosts and Second Sight, 541 + --V., Trance and Sleep-waking, 547 + --VI., Religious Delusions, the Possessed, Witchcraft, 673. + +Lettres de Cachet, profligate use of, in France, 538. + +Levasseur the actor, 192. + +Leuthen, battle of, 41. + +Life, a sonnet, 555. + +Lord Sidmouth's Life and Times, 473. + +Louis XV., sketches of, by Walpole, 206. + +Louis XV., De Tocqueville's Memoirs of, reviewed, 525. + +Louis Philippe, sketches of the court of, 1 + --his elevation, 8 + --and personal habits, 9. + +Love, a sonnet, 555. + +Lowositz, battle of, 40. + + +Macdonald, General, administration of Naples by, 164. + +Mack, General, a Christmas carol, 92. + +Mack, General, at Naples, 163. + +Magnesia, a ride to, stage first, 231 + --II. 305. + +Mahmood, the Sultan, 694. + +Maid of Ulva, the, by Delta, 645. + +Maida, battle of, 168. + +Mail Coachman, song of the, 51. + +Maison Doree at Paris, the, 177. + +Mammone, a Neapolitan bandit, 164. + +Mammoth deposits of Siberia, the, 670. + +Maria Theresa, accession of, and war against, 38. + +Marie Amelie, Queen of Louis Philippe, 7, 8, 11. + +Marlborough, comparison of, with Eugene, &c., 34. + +Marriage Bill, the Scotch, 646. + +Marsin, Marshal, 35. + +Massillon, 532. + +Mazarine, Cardinal, French Opera originated by, 180. + +Melville's Omoo, review of, 754. + +Merimee, Prosper, notices of the works of, 695. + +Merkatz, Lieutenant, 67, 68. + +Mexican War, the, 667. + +Mildred, a tale, Chap. IV., 18 + --Chap. V., 23 + --Chap. VI., 28 + --Chap. VII., 213 + --Chap. VIII., 217 + --Chap. IX., 222. + +Minden, battle of, 42. + +Minerals of Lake Superior, the, 658. + +Mississippi Scheme, the, 533. + +Modern Italian History, 162. + +Mollwitz, battle of, 38. + +Mont Dor, baths of, 448. + +Montebello, Duchess of, 5. + +Monterey, town of, 664. + +Montreal, town of, 655. + +Motherwell's Poems, review of, 622. + +Mountaineer and Poet, the, a sonnet, 684. + +Muleteers of Spain, the, 352, 354. + +Murat, sketches of, 166, 167 + --as King of Naples, 170 + --death of, 175, 176. + +Murray, a Jacobite, sketches of, 196. + +Music, Turkish, 749. + +Mytilene, Island of, 736. + + +Naples, sketch of the recent history of, 162. + +Napoleon, comparison of Frederick the Great with, 34, 45. + +Nashua, town of, 654. + +Nemours, the Duc de, 17. + +New Archangel, settlement of, 661. + +New Sentimental Journey, a + --the Baths of Mont Dor, 448 + --the Company, 451 + --the Forest, 454. + +Newcastle, the Duke of, character of, by Walpole, 202. + +New England, Residence of three of the Regicides in, 333. + +Newhaven, grave of the Regicides at, 334. + +North America, Siberia, and Russia, 653. + +Nugent, Lord, Walpole's character of, 197. + + +Oatmeal, superiority of, to wheat, 772. + +Ochotsk, town of, 668. + +Oglou, Pasha, 235. + +Olaf the Saint, the Hymn of, altered from the Icelandic, 682. + +Omoo, review of, 754. + +Orleans, Dowager Duchess of, Anecdote of, 11. + +Orleans, the Regent, 530. + +Opera Comique at Paris, the, 180. + +Oswald, Prince, 84. + +Ottoman Empire, present state of the, 685. + +Overland Journey round the Globe, Simpson's, review of, 653. + + +Pacific Rovings, 754. + +Pano di Grajo, a Neapolitan leader, 165, 169. + +Palais Royal, the, 191. + +Paris, Sketches of Society in, 13. + +Passaruang, town of, 332. + +Pauperism and its treatment, 261. + +Peel, Sir Robert, reflections on the career of, 93. + +Pelham, Lord, 204, 206. + +Pellew's Life of Sidmouth, review of, 473. + +Peninsula, latest from the, 350. + +Pepe, General, review of the memoirs of, 162. + +Pepe, Florestano, 172. + +Personal character, importance of, to a statesman, 93. + +Peterwardin, battle of, 36. + +Picton and the Connaught Rangers, 457. + +Pitt, first appearance of, 476 + --notices of, 483, 484. + +Poacher, the, or Jutland 130 years since, from the Danish. + --I. The Deer Rider, 286. + --II. Ansbjerg, 289. + --III. The Nisse, 292. + --IV. The Elopement, 297. + --V. The Horse Garden, 303. + +Poet, the, a Sonnet, 684. + +Poet's Auction, the, 62. + +Poetry + --Eric's Dirge, by Delta, 91 + --the Stormy Sea, by the same, _ib._ + --General Mack, 92 + --the Early Taken, 230 + --To the Stethoscope, 361 + --Epigrams, 367 + --Four Sonnets, namely, Life, Love, Heaven and Earth, the Prospect, + by E. B. Browning, 555 + --Epitaph of Constantine Kanaris, 644 + --The Maid of Ulva, by Delta, 645 + --The Lament of Macrimmon, by the same, _ib._ + --The Hymn of King Olaf the Saint, 682 + --Four Sonnets, by Elizabeth B. Browning, 683. + +Police Rates, inequalities of, 250. + +Polynesia, sketches of, 754. + +Pomaree, Queen, 761, 766. + +Pompadour, Madame de, 206. + +Poor, treatment of the, 262. + +Poors'-rate, inequality of the, 247. + +Popular Superstitions, Letters on the truths contained in, No. I. The +Divining Rod, 368 + --II. Vampyrism, 432 + --III. Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, 440 + --IV. Real Ghosts and Second-sight, 541 + --V. Trance and Sleep-waking, 547 + --VI. Religious Delusions: the Possessed: Witchcraft, 673. + +Portuguese troops, character of the, 464. + +Possession, Demoniacal, letter on, 673. + +Premier, reflections: suggested by the career of the late, 93. + +Prospect, the, a Sonnet, 556. + +Prosper Merimee, notices of the works of, 695. + +Prussian Military Memoirs, 65. + + +Rahden, Baron von, wanderings of an old soldier, reviewed, 65. + +Railways in Spain, 352. + +Raval the Actor, 193. + +Red River Settlement, the, 659. + +Reflections suggested by the career of the late Premier, 93. + +Regicides, cave of the, and how three of them fared in New England, 333. + +Regnier, defeat of, at Maida, 168. + +Reichenbach, Count, 68. + +Reign of George II., the, 194. + +Religious Delusions, letter on, 673. + +Ride to Magnesia, a + --stage I. 231 + --II. 305. + +Robinson, Sir Thomas, 209. + +Rosama, a tale of Madrid, 557. + +Rosbach, battle of, 41. + +Royal Arsenal, the, 426. + +Ruffo, Cardinal, 164. + +Russia, sketches of, 668. + + +Salamanca, battle of, 470. + +Samson, the executioner of Paris, 15. + +Sanchez, Julian, a Spanish Guerilla leader, 463. + +San Francisco, harbour of, 662. + +Santa Barbara, town of, 665. + +Saxe, Marshal, 535. + +Saxony, conquest of, by Frederick the Great, 40. + +Scio, Island of, 748. + +Scotch Marriage Bill, the, 646. + +Scotland, new poor law for, 247. + +Scottish Melodies, by Delta, Eric's Dirge, 91 + --The Stormy Sea, _ib._ + --The Maid of Ulva, 645 + --Lament for Macrimmon, _ib._ + +Secker, Archbishop, character of, 198. + +Second-sight, letter on, 541. + +Selberg's Java, review of, 318. + +Sentimental Journey, a, see _New_. + +Sheldon's Border Minstrelsy, review of, 622. + +Sheridan, speech of, on the Begum question, 478 + --notices of, 488. + +Siberia, sketches of, 668. + +Sidmouth, Lord, life and times of, 473. + +Simpson's Overland Journey Round the World, review of, 653. + +Sitka, Settlement of, 661. + +Sleep-waking, letter on, 547. + +Smith, John William, memoir of, by Samuel Warren, 129. + +Smyrna, city of, 231, 233, 735. + +Soor, battle of, 39. + +Spain, sketches of modern, 350. + +Spirits, Goblins, Ghosts, letter on, 440. + +Stamboul, sketches of, 689. + +Stamp Duties, inequalities of, 250. + +Stethoscope, to the, 361. + +Stewart, Sir John, 169. + +Storming of the Redoubt, the, 724. + +Stormy Sea, the, by Delta, 91. + +Sue, Engene, 591. + +Superior, Lake, the minerals of, 658. + +Surabaya, town of, 324. + + +Tahiti, sketches of, 758. + +Taxation, direct, 243, + true principles of, 258. + +Thames, Lays and Legends of the, _see_ Lays. + +Theatres of Paris, the, 177. + +Theatre des Varietes, the, 187. + +Thill, Colonel, 77. + +Thorpe's translation of Lappenberg's Anglo-Saxons, review of, 79, 80. + +Tiger Hunting in Java, 326. + +Tocqueville's History of the reign of Louis XV., review of, 525. + +Torgau, battle of, 43. + +Treatment of Pauperism, on the, 261. + +True Love, 428. + +Turin, battle of, 35. + +Turkey, present state of, 685. + +Turkish Manners, sketches of, 231. + +Turkish Watering Place, a, 735. + +Turning Dervishes, the, 689. + +Two Sketches, by E. B. Browning, 683. + + +United States, war of the, with Mexico, 667. + +Ural mountains, mines of the, 671. + + +Vallego, General, 663. + +Valona, town of, 231. + +Vampyrism, letter on, 432. + +Vaudeville at Paris, the, 184, 185. + +Vestris, the Dancer, 181. + +Vidocq, the Thief-taker, 15. + +Villeroi, Marshal, 35. + +Visible and Tangible, the, a metaphysical fragment, 580. + +Vision, the, 424. + +Voltaire, sketches of, 536, 537. + + +Walpole's reign of George II., review of, 194. + +Walpole, Sir Robert, notices of, 197, 203, 204. + +Warren, Samuel, memoir of the late John William Smith by, 129. + +Watermen of London, the, 262. + +Wellington, comparison of Marlborough with, 34 + --Sketches of, by Von Rahden, 75, 76. + +Whalley the Regicide, 333. + +Wheat, on the nutritive qualities of, and the various kinds of +flour from it, 768. + +Wilberforce, anecdotes of, 480. + +Wilfrith, Bishop, 88. + +Witchcraft, letter on, 673. + + +Yakutsh, province of, 669. + +Yonge, Sir William, 191. + + +Zenta, battle of, 35. + +Zorndorf, battle of, 42. + +Zulares, valley of, 666. + + +END OF VOL. LXI. + + +_Printed by William Blackwood and Sons, Edinburgh._ + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume +61, No. 380, June, 1847, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACKWOOD'S MAGAZINE, MAY, 1847 *** + +***** This file should be named 26484.txt or 26484.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/4/8/26484/ + +Produced by Brendan OConnor, Jonathan Ingram, Josephine +Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. 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